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: Printed for Rob. Scot, Ric. Chifwell, George Suobidee
and Bay Tooke. MDCC VI.

TO THE.

= Right Honourable
JOHN

Lord SOMERS,

EVESHAM

Lord High-Chancellor of ENGL AND, and
Prefident of the Royal Society. :

te

eee Fork

HE Léa)and Plan of the: Royal Society, ha-

ving been firft conceiv’d and delineated by

{@& = a. Great and «earned Chantellor, whith High
Office Your Lordfhip defervedly bears ; not
as an Acquifition of Fortune, but your Intellectual En-
dowments, confpicuous (among other Excellencies) by
the Inclination Your Lordfhip difcovers to promote Na-
tural Knowledge: As it juftifies the Difcernment of that
Affembly, co pitch upon Your Lordthip for their Prefident;
{o does it no lefs ?o san the Candor, yea, I prefume to
fay, the Sublimity of your Mind, in {6 generoufly ho-
nouring- them with your Acceptance of the Choicethey

have made. ‘a
“Sffe A Chai-

ww

23 !l Me
"Lard Vifewmt A Chancellor, and’a very Learned Lord, was. the Firft

Brouncker,

Chums + who honoured the Chair ; and a no lefs Honourable and

Tk DEDICATION. = 45
hope, that as Great.a Prince may build Solomon's Houfe, 8
asthat Great Chancellor (one of Your Lordbhip’s Learned virutamii

rhe late Suc™ 7 a ned Chancellor, refigns it to’ Your Lordfhip : So as

Confort, now
Dowager.
The Right Ho-
sourable Cha-
Montague, ? j : +i1* ; 2
ones. tection of its Prefidents, not-only preferv'd its Reputation
lor of the Exe

after all the Difficulties and Hardfhips the Society has hi-
therto gone through; ic has, thro the Fayour and Pro-

from. the a of Enemies and Detraéters, but
gone’on Gillmina ng, ‘and now Trinmpbantly in Your Lord-
{hip ; Under whofe propitious Influence, am perfuaded, it
“may promife it {elf That, which indeed has hitherto. been
wanting, to juftify the Glorious Title it bears ofa ROYAL
SOCIET Y. ‘The Emancipating it from fome remain-
ing and difcoutaging Cireunwtances, which it as yet ‘a-
bours under ; among which, that of a precarious and un-
fteady Abode, is not the leaft.
This Honour was referv'd for Your Lordfhip'; and an
‘Honimr, permit me to call ic, not at all unworthy the
-owning of the Greateft Perfon living : Namely, the
Eftablifhing and Promoting Real Knowledge ; and (next
to what is Divine) truly fo called; as far, ac leaft, as
Humane Nature extends towards the Knowledge of Na-
ture, by enlarging her Empire beyond the Land of Spe-
fires, Forms, Intentional Species, Vacuum, Occult Qualities, and

other Inadequate Notions; which, by their. obftreperous

and noify Difputes, affrighting, and (till of late) deterring
Men from adventuring on further Difcoveries, confin'd
them in a lazy Acquiefcence, and to be fed with Fanta/ms

and fruitlefs Speculations, which fignify nothing to the
Specifick Nature of Things, folid and ufeful Knowledge ;

by the Inveftigation of Caufes, Principles, Energies, Powers,
and Effetts of Bodies and Things vifible; and to improve
them tor the Good and Benefit of Mankind.

My Lord, That which the Royal Society needs. to accom-
plifh an entire Freedom, and (by rendring their Circum-
ftances more eafy) capable to fubfift wich Honour, and
ta reach indeed the glorious Ends of its nftitution, ts an

“Eftablifhment in a more fettl’d, apprepriate, and commodi-
ous Place; having hitherto (like the ‘Iabernacle in the Wil.
derne/s) been only ambulatory tor almoft Forty Years : But

~ Solomon built the Firft Temple ; and what—forbids us to

Predeceffors) had defign'd the Plan; there being nothing Atlnts.

in that Auguft and Noble Model impoffible, or beyond the
Power of Nature and Learned Induftry.

_ Thus, whilft King Solomoy’s Temple was Confecrated to

: “the God of Nature, and his crue Worfhip, This may be

Dedicated, and fet apart for the Works of Nature ; deliver'd
from thofe Illufions and Impoftors, that are ftill endea-
vouring to cloud and deprefs the true and /ubjtantial Philo-
Sophy: A fhallow and fuperficial lifight, wherein (as that Ia-
comparable Perfon rightly obferves) having made fo ma-
ny Atheifts: Whillt a profound and thorow Penetration into
her Receffes (which isthe Bufiefs of thie Royal Society)
would lead Mento the Knowledge and Admiration of the
glorious Author. »-.

And. now, my Lord, I expect fome will wonder what
my. Meaning is, to ufher in 2 Trifle with fo much Mag-
nificence, and end at laft in a fine Receipe for the Drefing
of a Sallet with an Handful of. Pot-berbs ! But yet, My
Lord, this Subjeét, as low and defpicable as it appears, chal-
lenges a Part of Natural Hiftory ;~and the Greateft Prin-
ces have thought it no Difgrace, not only to make it

‘their Diverfion, but their Care, and to promote and en-

courage it in the midft of their weightieft Affairs: He -
who wrote of the Cedar of Libanus, wrote alfo of the Ay/op
which grows upon the Walle -

To verify this, how much might I fay of Gardens and
Rural Employments, preferable to the Pomp and Grandeut
of other Secular Bufinefs, and that in the Eftimate of as
Great Men as any Age has produc’d! And it is of fuch
Great Souls we have ic recorded ; That after they had
pao the nobleft Exploits for the Publick, they
ometimes chang’d their Scepters for the Spade, and their
Purple for the Gardiner's Apron. And of thefe, fome, My
Lord, were Emperors, Kings, Confuls, Dittators, and. Wife
Statefmen ; who amidft che moft important Affairs, both
in Peace and War, have quitted all their Pomp and Dig-

‘nity in Fxchange of this Learned Pleafure : Not that of
_ the moft refin'd Part of Agriculture (che Philofophy of the

S{ffa Garden

136

{

Th DEDICATION. eee
Garden and Parterre'only) ‘but'of Herbs. and wholfom ‘Sul-

lets, and other plain ‘and ufeful-Patts of Geopdnicks, and .

wrote Books of Tillage and Husbandry ; and ‘took ‘the
Plough-Tackle for their. Banner, and their Names fromthe
Grain and Pulfe they fow'd, as the Marks and Characters

of the higheft Honour. : | eae
But I proceed so farther ona Topic fo well known to

Your Lordfhip : Not urge 1 Examples of fich tlluftridus
Perfons, laying afide their Grandeur, and-even of defert-
ing their Stations ; (which would infinitely prejudice the
Publick, when worthy Men are in Place, amd at the Hélim)
But to fhew how confiftent the Diverfions of the Garden
and Villa were, with the higheft and bufieft Employment

of the Common-wealth, and fever thought a Reproach, ot .

the leaft Diminution to thé'Gravity arid Weneration due
to their Perfons, and the Noble Rank they held.

Will Your Lordfhip give me leave to repeat what is .

- faid-of the younger Pliny, (Nephew to the pect if and

whom | think we may parallel with the Greateft of his —

Time (and perhaps-of any fircé ) undet the Worthieft
Emperor ‘the Roman World evet had 2? A Petfon of vaft
Abilities, Rich, and: High ‘in his Mafter’s Favour ; that
fo husbanded his Tittic, as in the midft of the weightieft

ree

A DED FC4T 10N. sa :
Bilt, My Lord, Tforget with whom I ate calking’ thus ,

agi a Gardiner ought not to be fo bold. | Fhe Prefeiie 1

humbly ttiake Your biit a Safler ‘of
cridde Herbs: But there is among, theny that which Wasa
Prize'at the Iphmniian Games’; ‘and Your Lordthip knows

who it was both accepted; anid® rewarded a3 defpitable,
an Oblation of this kind. The Favour I hiimbli beg,

our Lordfhip;: is indeed

48 Yout Lordthip’s Pardon for this Prefatmpcion,” “The
* Subjec& iS mean, and requires it, ant

d imiy Repiratitn’ in

_ datiger ; fhould Yotlt LordfHip hedge falpeét that ode

could never write {6 mich Of Uréyfing Sallets, who minded
any thing ferious, befides the gratifying a fenfual Appe-
tite with a voluptuary Apician Art.

Truly, My Lord, 1 am fo far from _defigning to pro- -
mote thofe Supplicia Luxurie, (-as Seneca calls‘them) by
what | have here written; that were jt in-my Power, [
would recall the World, if fot Altogether to'their priftine - *
Diet, yet to a much more whol/om and temperate than is
now ift Fafhion: And what if they find me like to fome
who are eager after Hunting, and other Field Sports, which
are laboriows Exércifés; and Fifhing, which is indeed a
laxy one? who, after all their Pains and Fatigue, never
eat what they take and catch in either: For fome fuch I

‘Affaits, e6 have anfwer'd, and by his * Ex-
3 ‘im dimple, rade good what | have faid on this
Ne en oe ie ~~ Oceafion.. . The ancient and belt Magiftiates

* Si quid temporis a civilibus
megotiis, quibus totaan jam. ins

have known : And tho’ I cannot affirm fo of my felf,
(when a well drefs’d and excellent Sallet is before me) Iam
yet a very moderate Eater of them. So as to this Book-
Luxury, 1 can affirm, and that truly, what the Poet favs
of himfelf (on a lefs innocent Occafion) Lafciva pagina,
vita proba, God forbid, that after all 1 have advane’d in
Praife of Salles, 1 fhould be thought to_plead for the Vice
I cenfure, and chufe that of Epicurus for my Lemma ; In hac
arte confenui ; or to have {pent my time in nothing elfe. The
Plan annex’d tothefe Papers, and the Aparatus made'to {u-
~ perftruct upon it, would acquit me of having bent all my

Renae Numam omit: of Rome, allow'd but the Naih Day for thé
Fabios , Citerones, lida City and Publick Bufinefs:; thé reft for che
virtute claros viros imitare 5 G dedi d h ‘ S | our
qui in magno honove confticnet , d ountry an t ie allet Garden . There were
ripen ohaquam eye then fewer Caufes indeed at the Bar ; but ne-
inbencpum purarint, In Vite ver greater Fuftice, nor better Judges and

aa Advocates. And ‘tis hence obfetved , that
j .° >

we hardly find a Great and Wile Man among the An-

cients, qut-nulls-habuit hortos, excepting only Pomponins At-

ticus ; whilft his dear Gicerd profefles, that he never laid
out his Money more readily,—than—in-the purchafing’ of
Gardens, and thofe fweet Retirements, for which he fo
often left the Rofira (and Court of the greateft and moft

flourifhing Scate-of the World)-to vific, prune, and ‘wa-
_ ter chem with his own Hands: Ad

f

Contemplations on Sallets only.. What humbly offer Your
Lordfhip, is (as I faid) Pare of Natural. Hiffory, the Pro-

“duét of Horticulture, and the Field, dignified by the moft

Illuftrious,-and fometimes tilled Laureato-Vomere ; which,
as it concerns a Part of Philofophy, | may (without Vanity)

- be allow’d to have taken fome Pains in Cultivating, as

an inferiour Member of the Royal. Society, But,

.

i Th DEDICATION. | oe

But, My Lord, whilft You read on (if at. leat You
vouchfafe me that Honour to read at all) { am confcious THE
1 rob the Publick of its moft precious Moments, —. ~ Ne oS

I therefore humbly again implore Your Lordfhip’s Par-. | | L ons
don : Nor indeed needed I to have faid half this, to kin- , i A. C iy
dle in Your Breaft, that which is already fhining there, At : : :
9 We : . : :
(Your Lordfhip’s Efteem of the Royal Society) after what HE Favourable Entertainment which the Kalendar bas -
You were pleas’: to exprefs in fuch an obliging manner, = found, encouraging the Bookfeller 40 adventure upon’ a
when it was lately to wait upon Your Lordfhip ; among Ninth Impreffion, I could not kd his requeft of my
whom I had the Honour to be a Witnefs of Your gene-. . F 35 j aca OL et * 1 - Ct ag Sy ! ye oie
* 7. ' able, lo an inex e ect, as it regards a Purt-o orti-
rous and favourable Acceptance of their Addrefles, who pe lngl and offer fome “little Aid to fuch as love a Bictiee
am, fo Innocent and Landable. There. are thofe of late, who have ar-
rogated, and given the Glorious Title of Compleat «zd Accom-
plifh’d Gardiners, to what they have publif'ds as if there. wire
My Lord nothing wanting, nothing more remaining, or farther to be expected
> ve ~ from-the Field ; and that Nature had been quite emptied of all ber
. iw: He fertile Store: Whiljt thofe who thus magnifie their Difcaveries have
Your Lordhip’s ; after all, penetrated but.a very little way into this } ‘je, Ample, ind
“sth oat . and as yet, anata gn Who fee not, that it would frill
= require the Revolution of many Ages 5 decp and long Experience, .
Moft Humble and jor any Man to Emerge a Perfo, and Accomplifia anit Gar-
; diner they boajft themfelves to be: Nor do I think, men will ever
Mojt Obedient Servant, reach the End, and fir 0xtended Limits of the Vegetable Kingdom,
‘ fo incomprebenfible is the Variety it every Day produces, of the mojt
Ofcfal, and- Admirable of all the Afpectable Works of God fince al- , .
molt all we fee and touch and tafte and fell, eat avd drink, are
J OHN E VELYN. clad with, and defended (from the great? Prince to the meancjt
- Peafant) is furnifhed from, that Great and Disioge fat Plantation,
Epitomiz'd i onr Cardens, Aigly worth the Contemplation of the
moft ‘Profound Divine, and Deepeft Philofopher.
I foould be afham'd to acknowledge how little I have advane'd,
could I find that ever any mortal man from Adam, Noah, Solo-. -
mon, Apiftotle, Theophraftus, Diofcorides, ad the refi of’
~ Nature's Interpreters, had ever arriv'd to the perfeé Knowledge of .
any one Plant, or Vulgar Weed mhatfoever : But this perhaps may
get polfibly be referv’d for another State of Things, and * a loyger * Uc hujut-
Day; that is, When Time fhall be no more, but Know- say san ;
ledge fhall be encreas’d. We have heard of one who ftudied and incohartifiis
contemplated the Nature of Bees only, for Sixty Years: After which wom ame =o
on will not wonder; that a Perfon of my Acquaintance, fhould See
Lave {pent almoft Forty, in gathering and amaljing Materials for Exitio cereas
at Hortulan Defign, to fo enormous an Heap, as to fill fome Thou- on
_ fand Pages 5 aad yet be écomprehended within two or three acres of D. Raius Pre-
Grounds nay, within the Square of lefs than One (skilfully planted and fat Hilt. Plar,
cultivated) fufficiert to furnifp, and ‘entertain his Time and Thoughts
all bis Life long, with a ntoft Innocent, Agrecable, and Ofeful Employ-
“rent, But you may jujily wonder, and condersn the I ‘anity of it iit
Se with

39

Semecertnsnge

140

The PREFACE, -

Luke 15.30. with that Reproach; ‘This Man began to build, but was not able

Cc
R
ya

ap,
me

!

to finifh.. This has been the Fate of that’ Undertaking, and I dare
promife, will be of whofoever imagines (without the Circumftances

of extraordinary Ajjiftance, and no ordinary Expence) to purfue the

Plan, ered, and finifh the Fabrick as it ought to be.

But this is that which Abortives the Perfedion of the moft Glorious
and Useful. Undertakings 5 the unfatiable toveting to Exhanft all
that fhould, or can be faid upon every Head: If fuch a one have any
thing elfe to mind, or do inthe World, let me tell him, he thinks of
Building too lates and rarely find we any, who care to Superftrud upon
the Foundation of another, and whofe \dea’s are alike. There ought
therefore to be as many Hands and fubfidiaries to uch a defien (and
thofe Matters too) as there are diftiné Parts of the Whole, (according
tothe fubfequent Table) that thofe who have the Means and Courage, may

(tho’ they do not undertake the Whole finifh a Part at leaft, and in

time Unite their Labours into one Intire, Compleat, and C, =
mate Work indeed, : sing see
_ Of One or Two of thefe, I attempted only a Specimen in m
SILVA and the KALENDAR 3 Imperfeé, I fay, becaufe they me
both capable of Great Improvenients : It is not therefore to be expected,
(Let me ufe the Words of an Old and experienc’d Gardiner )

olumella de Cunéta me diturum, que vaftitas ejus fcientiz continerer, fed
R. 4. v- plurima 5 nam.illud in -unius hominis pradentiam cadere non
poterit, neque eft ulla Difciplina aut Ars, que fingulari con-

fummata fit ingenio.

May it then fuffice aliquam partem tradidifle, cizd that I have
done my Endeavour,
ee inutilis olim
Ne Videar vixiile

Much more might Ladd upon this Charming, and Fruitful Sub-
je (I mean, concerning Gardening : ) But this is not a place to Ex.
patiate, deterr'd, as I have long fince been, from fo bold an Enter-
prize, as the Fabrick I mentioned. I content my felf then with an
Humble Cottage and a Simple Potagere, Appendant to the Ka-
Jendar5 which, Treating only (and that briefly) of the Culture of
Moderate Gardens ; Nothing feems to me, fhou’d be more welcome
and agreeable, than whilft the Produ of them is come into: more
Requeft and Ule amongft us, than sty pk (befide what we call
and diftinguifh by the name of Fruit) I did annéx fome particular di-
rections concerning SALLETS. .

PLAN |

OFA

“Royal Garden:

Defcribing and Shewing the Amplitude and
Extent of that Part of pein oy which
belongs to Horticulture.

*

In Three BO OKS.

——

BOOK L

Chap. I. F Principles aod Elements i# general. ‘
Tt Ch. Il. Of the Four (vulgarly reputed) Elements
Fire, Air, Water, Earth.

3 Ch. Ill. Of the Ceeleftial Influences, and parti-
cularly of the Sun, Moon, and of the Climates.

Chap. IV. Of the Four Annual Seafons. —

Chap. V. Of the Natural Mould and Soil of 4 Garden.

Chap. VI. Of Compotts aud Stercoration, Hepa ttioation, Dreffing
and Stirting the Earth axd Mould of a Garden, |

BOOK IL.

Chap. I. A Garden Deriv’d ard Defin’d, its Dignity, Diftinétion,
and Sorts. « ie
Ch. If. Of a Gardiner, bow to be qualify’d, regarded axd reward-

ed; bis Habitation, Cloathing, Diet, Under-Workmen and
Alliftaots. r.

Ch. Hl.. Of the Inftruments belonging to a Gardiner ; their various

Ules, and Mechanichal Powers.

Ch. 1V. Of the Terms us’d and affected by Gardiners.

Ch. V. Of Enclofing, Fencing, Platting, axd difpofing of the
Ground ; and of Terraces, Walks, Allies, Malls, Bowling-Greens,

&e.

Ch. Vi Of a Seminary, Nurleries ; and of Propagating Trees,

: i d Tranfplanting, &c.
. Plaats and Flowers, pes - ran{p Br Chap. VU-

~~

The PLAN of 4

Ch. VII. Of Knots, Trayle-work, Parterres, Compartiments,Borders,

Banks aud Emboflments, | = |
Ch. VIll. Of Groves, Labyrinths, Dedals, Cabinets, Cradles,

Clofe-Walks, Galleries, Pavilions, Portico's, Lanterns, and other

Relievo’s ; of Topiary avd Hortulan ‘Archite@ute.

. Ch. IX. . Of Fotntains, “Jetto’s, Cafcades, Rivulers, Pifcina’s
Canals, Baths, a#d other natural, and Artificial Water-works.

Ch. X. Of Rocks, Grotts, Cryptz, Mounts, Precipices, Venti-
ducts, Confervatories, of Ice, and Snow, and other Hortulan
Refrefhments, rr"

Ch. XI Of Statues, Bufts, Obelisks, Columns, Inferiptions,

Dials, Vafa’s, Perfpectives, Paintings, ‘and other Ornaments.

Ch. XII. Of Gazon-Theatres, Amphitheatres,’ Artificial Echo’s,
Automata, avd Hydraulick Mufick.

Ch. XIII. Of Aviaries, Apiaries, Vivaries, Infeats, &c.

Ch. XIV. Of Verdures, Perennial Greens, and Perpetual
Springs. r

Ch. XV.. Of Orangeries, Oporotheca’s, Hybernacula, Stoves,
and Confervatories, of Zender Plants, and Fruits, and how
to order them, i ) ;

Ch. XVI. Of “the Coronary “Garden: Flowers and Rare
Plants, bow’ they are to-be-Raifed, Governed, and Improved,

~and how the Gardiner is to keep his Regifter.

Ch. XVII. Of the Philofophical Medical Garden.

Ch. XVIII, Of Stupendous asd Wonderful Plants. _

Ch. XIX. Of the Hort-Yard (and Potagere; and what Fruit-
Trees, Olitory, amd Efculent Plants, ‘may be admitted into
a Garden of Pleafure. es

Ch: XX. Of Sallets. .

Ch. XXI_ Of 4 Vineyard, and Direétions concerning the ma-

- king of Wine, and other Vinous Liquors, and of Teas.

Ch. XXII. Of Watering, Pruning, Plathing, Pallifading, Nailing,
Clipping, Mowing, Rowling, Weeding, Cleanfing, Be.
Ch. XXIII. Of the’ Enemies and Infirmitieés to which Gardens

are obnoxious, together with the Remedies.

Ch. XXIV. Of the Gardiner’s Almanack or Kalendarium Hor-
tenfe, directing what he is to do Monthly, and what Fruits and
-Flowers are in’ prime. '

BOOK Ill. .

Chap. I. Of Conferving, Properating, Retarding, Multiplying,
Tranfmuting, and Altering the Species, Forms. and (reputed)
Subftantial Qualities of Plants, Fruits ‘and Flowers.

Ch. II. Of the “Hortulan Elaboratory, and‘ of diftillmg and ex-
tracting of Waters, Spirits, Effences, Salts, Colours, Re/u/citation
of Plants, with other rare Experiments, and an account of their
Virtues. -

‘= Chap. Hl

i

ROYAL GARDEN.

Ch. I. Of Compofing the Hortus Hyemalis, and making Books,

Natural, Arid Plants and’ Flowers, with é
dajervie them in their Beauty. : opiate
Ch. IV. Of Painting of Flowers, Flowers enamell'd, Silk, Callico’s
Paper, Wax, Gums, Patts, Horns, Glafs, Shells, Feathers.
Mots, Pietra Commefia, Inlayings, Embroyderies, Carvings, and
other Artificial Reprefentations of them. :
Ch. V. Of Crowns, ~Chaplets, Garlands, Feftoons, Encarpa,
prea Nofegays, Poefies, Deckings, and other Flow.
Ps.
Ch. VL Of Horton Laws and Privileges.
; t ortulan Stud d Li
ard aks mans Y, and of a Library, Authors,
- VIL Of Hortulan Entertainments, Natural, Divine, Mo-
= and ube ok ; hae divers Hiftorical Paffages, cued Sen
lemnities, to the Riches, Beauty, Wonder, Pl De-
* fight; and Univerfal Uje of Catdecs,” cia
Ge IX. Of Gardew Burial. ae
- X Of Paradife, and of the moft F Gardens i
World, Antient and Modern. 3 Cre a a o
Ch. XI. Zhe Defcription of a Villa. |
Ch. XII, Zhe Corollary and Conclufion.-=

Laudato ingentia ruta,
Exiguum colito.——

*

—ACETARIA.

~y AE LETS in. general _confift_of cértain.Z/culent Plants
wi, and Herbs, improv’d by Culture, Induftry, and Art, of
the Gard'ner : Or, as others fay, they are a Compofition

of Edule Plants and Roots of feveral kinds, to be eaten -

raw or green, blanch'd, or-candied; fimple, and per Je, or inter-
mingl’d with others according to the Seafon. The boyl’d, bak’d,
picki'd, or, otherwife difguisd, varioufly accommodated by the
skilful Cooks, to render. them grateful to the more ferninine Pa-
late, or Herbs tather for the Pot, &c. challenge not the Name

of Saet fo properly here, tho: fometimes mention’d: And there- —

~~ fore, oe
- Thole wha Criticize not fo nicely upon the Word, feem to di-

* Olera a fri-

gidis diftings, {tinguilhthe * Olera (which were never eaten raw) from Atetaria,
SeeSpartianus Which were never Jay’'d; and fo they derive the Etymology of
in Pefcennio. QJys from Olla, the Pot. But others deduce it from“OaA@., com-

Salmaf. in

I Casitetin. prehending the Univerfal Genus of the Vegetable Kingdom ; as from
~~ me =a primis virides av Panis; efteeming; that he who had + Bread and
mortalibus Sesa. Herbs, was fafficiently blefsd with all a frugal

Poe nee nullo follicitin: ~“Mjaq could need or defire: Others again will have

Ec modo carpebant vivaci it, ab olendo, i. e. crefcendo, from its continual growth
i na ae i snera fronde 294 /pringing up : So the Younger Scaliger on Var-
cacurhen erant. ro: But his Father Ju/ius extends it not fo generally

Ovid, Faftor ive to all Plants, as to the Efculents, according
“Kavu 3 to the Text: We call thofe Olera (ays * Theophraftus) which are
a Pius pans gpd. in ha rt pha be ae ‘0. arty both
wesv xecar, Boyl’d and raw: Laft of all, ab alendo, as having been the origi-
Thophrat - nal_and genuine Food of all Mankind from the + Creation.
cp.7. «COA teat deal Tore Of this learned Stuff were to be. pick’d up
este i from the Cumini Sectores, and impertinently curious ; whilft as it
Seamer concerns the Bufinefs in hand, we are, by Sallet, to underftand, a
+ Salmaf. in particular Compofition of certain crude and frefh Herbs, {uch as
Hiesonr Mer. ufually are, or may fafely be, eaten with fore Acetous Juice, Oy/,
curistis- Salt: &e,to-give-them-a_grateful Guft and Vebicle ; exclufive of
rns se the * Juxesds retmZai, eaten without their due Correctives, which
.ErSimp.. the Learned + Salmaftus, and indeed, generally, the || old Phyfici-
Medic. Aver ams affirm (and that truly) all crude and raw Adyera require to
roe He: gender them wholfom ; fo as, probably they were from hence, as
qPlin uo. | Pliny thinks, call'd Acefaria, and not (as Mermolaus and fome
xix. 874 others) Aeceptaria ab Accipiendo;, nor from Accedere, tho fo
* Convius *ready—at hand, and-eafily drefs'd, requiring neither Fire, Cof,
facilis tine a" or 4rtendance, to boyl, roaft, and prepare them as did Fleth, and
Mart, Ep. 74. other Provifions ; from which, and other Prerogatives, they were

always in ufe, Gc. And hence indeed‘ the more frugal Ztalians

and»

ACETARIA :
and Freach, to this Day, gather Ogni Verdura, any thing almoft that's
greem and tender, to the very Tops of Brambles and Nettles ; foas
every Hedge affords a Safer (not unagreeable) feafon’d with its pro-
_ per Oxybaphon ot Vinegar, Salt, Oyl,&c. which, doubtlefs, gives it
both the Relifh and Name of Salad, Enfalada +, as with us of t“Azves
Sabet ; from the Sapidity, which renders not Plants and Herbs 79?)
alone; but Mes themtelves, and their Converfations, pleafanr and cai; jan,

agreeable: But of this enough, and perhaps teo much; left Olea que
_ whilft I write of Salt and Sallet, | appear my felf infipid | pafs rads faman-

tur ex Ace-

therefore to the Ingredients, which we will call . fo. Hardin

Furniture and Maizerials.

HE Materials of Sallets, which together with the grofler
Olera, confift of Roots, Stalks, Leaves, Buds, Flowers, &c. «
Fruits (belonging to another C/a/s) would require a much ampler ~~~
Volume, than would fuit our Xalendar, (of which this pretends
tobe an Appendix only.) fhould we extend the following Cata-
logue farther than to a brief Enumeration only of fuch Herbace-
ous Plants, Olufeula and {maller E/culents, as are chiefly us’d in Cold.
' $allets, of whofe Culture we have treated there ; and as we gather
them from the Mother and Génial Bed, with 2 Touch only of their
Qualities, for Reafons hereafter. given.

—-_"

r. Alexanders, Hippofelinum ; S. Smyrnium vulgare, French Per-
fil Macedoine (much of the nature of Parfly) is moderately hot,
—and of a cleanfing Faculty, deobftructing, nourifhing, and com-
forting the Stomach. The gentle frefh Sprouts, Buds, and Tops,
are to be chofen, and the Stalks eaten in the Spring ; and when
blancl'd, in Winter likewife, with Oy/, Pepper, Salt, &c. by them-
felves, or in Compolition: They,make alfo an excellent Vernal
Pottage.

2. Artichaux, Cinara, (Carduus Sativus) hot and dry. The
Heads being flit in Quarters firft eaten raw, with Oy/, a little Vine-
ar, Salt, and Pepper, gratefully recommend a Glafs of Wine ;

r. Muffet fays, at the end of Meals.

They are likewife, whilft tender and fmall, fried in frefh Butter
crifp with Parfly. But then become a moft delicate and excellent
Reftorative, when tull grown, they are boyl’d the common way.
The Bottoms are alfo bak’d in Pies, with Marrow, Dates, and other
rich Ingredients : In //2/y they fometimes broil them, and as the
{caly Leaves open, bafte them with frefh and fweet Oy/; but with
Care extraordinary, for if a Drop fall upon the Coals, all is marr'd 5
that Hazard efcap’d, they eat them with the Juice of Orange and
~ The Stalk is blawch'd in Autumn, and the Pith eaten raw or

“poyPd. . The way of preferving them frefh all Winter, is by fepa-.
. Re oe rating

wife

ACETARIA

. rating the Bottoms from the Leaves, and, after-parboiling, allow-

ing to every Bottom, a {mall Earthen glazd Pot ; burying it all
over in freth melted Butter, as they do Wild-Fowl, Gc. Or if
more than one, in a larger Pot, in the fame Bed and Covering,
Layer upon Layer,

‘They are alfo preferv’d by ftringing them on Pack-thread, aclean -
Paper being put between every Bottom, to hinder them from

touching one another, and fo hung up ina dry Place. ‘They are
likewife pick? d.

/~ Tis not very long fince this noble 7hift/e came firft into /raly,

improv'd to this Magnitude by Culture ;Jand fo rare in England,
that they were commonly fold for Crowns a-piece : But what Car-
thage yearly {pent in them (as Pliny computes the Sum) amounted
to Seffertia Sena Millia, 30000-/. Sterling.

Note, That the Spanifh Cardon, Thiftle, or Cinera Spinofa, a
wild and fqaller Artichoak, with fharp pointed Leaves, and lefler
Head ; the Rid or Cofta of the Leaves being blanch’'d and tender,
(the Skin ftrip’d off) are ferv’d up a Ja Poiverade (that is with
Oyl, Pepper, &c.) asthe French Term is ; and by them are called
Coltones des Cardons d'Efpagno, or Cardis. In France they blanch
likewife the Leaves of the true Artichoaks: But the Cardes des
Cardons d’Efpagno, are more efteem’d by far.

%

“—Afparagus, See Sparagus.

*Plin: H. Nat.
Jib. xix. cap. 8,

3. Bafil, Baflicum, Ocimum, imparts a grateful Flavour, if not
too ftrong, fomewhat offenfive to the Eyes; and therefore the
tender Tops to be very fparingly us’d in our SaZet.

‘4. Baulm, Meliffa Hortenfis, hot and dry, cordial and exhilara-
ting, fovereign for the Brain, ftrengthning the Memory, and
powerfully chafing away Melancholy. The tender Leaves are usd
in Compofition with other Herbs; and the Sprigs frefh gather'd,
put into Wine or other Drinks, during the Heat of Summer, give
it a marvellous quicknefs : This noble Plant yields an incompa~
rable Wine, made as is that of Cow/lip-Flowers.

5. Beet, Beta; of which there is both White, or Sicla Offcina-
rum, B. Pe (the French Poirée) and the Rubra or Red Radice Rapa,
or Bete-Raves. Ihe Coffa, or Rib of the broad Leaves of the
White Beet (by the French call'd the Cardes de Porrée) being boil'd,
melts, and eats like Marrow. And the Roots (efpecially of the Red)
being boil’d, cut into thin Slices, whencold, .is-of it felf a grateful
Winter SaZet ; or being mingl’d with other O/afeula, Oy/, Vinegar,
Salt, &c.. ’Tis of Quality cold_and moift, and naturally fome-
what Jaxative: But, however, by the Epigrammatif? {til'd foolifh
and infipid, as Innocentior quam Olus (for fo the Learned * Harduin
reads the Place) ’tis by Diphilus of old, and others fince, prefer'd
before. Cabbage, as of better Nourifhment : Martial (not unlearn’d

da‘the Art of Sallet) commends it with Wine and Pepper : He.

names

_ artes it indeed

GE

ACE TARIA
Fabrorum prandia, for its being {6 vulgar. ~
But eaten with Oy/ and Vinegar, as ufually, it is no defpicable Sal.
let. There is a Beet growing near the Sea, \Befa Sy/veftris mariti-
ma, which is the moft delicate of all. The Roots of the Red
Beet, pared into thin Slices and Circles, are, by the French and
Italians, contrivd into curious Figures to adorn their Savers.

6. Blité, Blitum Horten/e Englith Mercury; or ’ ad 2
try Houfe-wives call it) Ad-goud, Blitum bonus Bie co
thum Unttuofum five tota bona Spinachie facie - The gentle Turiones
and Tops, may be eaten as Sparagus, or fodden in Pottage, and ate
a very falubrious E/cwlent : There is both a white and red, much us‘d

in Spain and Jtaly ; but befides its Humidity and deterfive Nature
*tis inftpid enough. }

2, Borrage, Bugloffum Latifolium Borrago (Gaudia femper a
hot and kindly moift, purifying the Blood, isan eek pe it 2
dial, of a pleafant Flavour : The tender Leaves, and Flowers éfpe-
cially, may be eaten in Compofition, but above all, the Sprigs in

‘Wine, like thofe of Baum, are of known Vertue to revive the

Hypochondriac, and chear the hard Student: See Buglofi.

8. Brooklime, Amagais aquatica, or Becca bunga (French Mou-
i <ie ;) moderately hot and moift, prevalent in the Scorbute
a tone. - :

g. Bucks-horn, or Harts-horn Plantain, (Cormie Cervinum, Coro- .
nopus Flortenfis) the beft is the broad-leav'd curl'd Bucks-bérn, which
may beeaten in SaZets, whilft young and tender.

10. Buglofs, Baglofium Angaftifolium; in nature - much like
Borrage, yet fomething more aftringent. The Flowers’ of both,
with the intire Plant, greatly reftorative, being Conferv’d : And
for the reft, fo much commended by Averroes ; that for its ef-
fects, cherifhing the Spirits, juftly call’'d Zuphrofynum : Nay, fome

‘will have it the Nepenthes of Homer : But indeed, what we now

call Buglofs, was not that of the Ancients, but rather Borrage, for
the like Virtue named Corrago.

11. Burnet, is the Pimpinella Sanguiforba;or-PimprineDe';-eater
by the French and /talians ; efteem’d of fo chearing and exhilarating
a Quality, and fo generally commended, (as giving it as admittance
to all SaZets) ‘tis pafsd intoa Proverb.

L'Infalata non e buon, ne bella,

Ove non e la Pimpinella,
But afreth Sprig in Wine recommends it to us as its mot genuine
Element. bes

“ae ‘Buds; Gemme ; not only thofe Edule Garden Plants are pre-
ferable to other lefs tender Parts, but even the Zuriones, and firft
Rudi-

*DeR.R.

6 ieee
ACETARIA

Rudiments and Tops, gather’d. from. wild Plants, m Woods and
Fields, make delicious Saets : Witnefs the Buds taken. out of the
Craws of Stock-doves in the Spring; nay, the Buds and tender
Seed-Veffels, or early Pruits of fome Plants, when muriated or
pickl’d, are juftly efteem'd, tho’ no other part of the Plant from
which they are gather’d are eatable ; fuch as. 4fhen-Keys, Broom-
Buds, hot and dry, retaining the vertue of Capers, efteem‘d to be

very opening, and prevalent againft the Spleen and Scurvy ; and,

being Pick!d, are fpriokl’d among, the Sadets, or eaten Ly them-
felves.. But the A/pargi, or tender Sprouts of any SaZet-Herbs,
when they little more than peep out of the Ground, retaining their
Seed-leaves, are fo highly efteem’d by many whoare nicely criti-
cal in Sallets, that they will not eat them when they are grown
larger; and therefore caufe Sallet-Seeds to be fown_on het Beds, not
in Winter only, when other choice Sallets cannot be‘ had, but
every Month of the Year, far preferring them to any Sallet-Herbs
whatfoever, run upto more Maturity : But concerning this. hafty
-Produdtion: of the Hot-Béd, the Effect of artificial Gompofts, fee
what we have faid hereafter. ;

Fhe Gemme and Summities of feveral Plants, ase exceedi
agreeable to the Palate, in the Compofition of Sallets; tho
their lefs tender Parts are naufeous ; as of Baf/, Chervile, and
many others. -

|. 13. Cabbage, Brafica ace?’ (and its feveraj kinds} Pompey’s
beloved Dith, fo highly celebrated by old * Caro, Pythagoras, and

Chryfippus, the Phyfician (as the only Pawacea) is not fo general-

ly magnify'd by she reft of Doctors; a9 affording but a crafs and

melancholy Juice 3 yet Jésfening if but moderately boil'd,. if over-
much, aftringent, rag Big C. Celfus; and therefore feldom

eaten saw,, excepting by Datch. The Cyme, or Sprouts ra-
ther of the Cole, are very delicate, fo boil’d as to retain their
Verdurg and green-Colous. In reifiog this Plant, great care is
to be had of the Seed. The belt comes from Dextark and Rufia,

_or ftom, Aleppo, . Of the French, the Pancaliere a la large Cote,
the white, large, and ponderous, are to be chofen ; and fo the.

Canly-flewer; Brafica Caulifiera (anciently unknown :) Some-fteep
them in Milk, and feethe them again in Beef-Broth - Of old, they
added a little Ni#re. The Broccoli from Naples, ‘perhaps the Hal-
—myridia-of Pliny Cox Athenaus rather.) Capitata marina & florida,
our Sea-keele (the ancient Crambe) and growing on our Coaft,
are very delicate, as are the Saveys, commended for being not fo
raik, but agreeable to moft Padates, and of better Nourifhment :
In general, Cabbages are thought to allay Fumes, and prevent In-
toxication : But fome will have them.soxious tathe Sight ; others
impute it so. the Cau/y flewer rather : But whilft the Learned gre
‘not agreed about it, Zheopbraftus affirms the contrary, and, Pliny
commends the Juice raw, with a little HYoney, for the moift and
weeping Eye, not the dry.or dull. Butatter all, Cabbage (‘tis con-
fefs'd) is greatly accus’d for lying undigefted in the Stomach, and
pro-

ACETARIA ~, oe
provoking Eructations; which makes me wonder at the Veneration
we tead the Ancients had for them, calling them Divine, and {wear-
ing, per Braficam; and for.600 Years held by the Romans aPanacea,
"Tis fearce an Hundred Years fince we firft had Cabdages out of
Holland, One of the Sir Autbony Afbleys of Wiburg St. Giles in
Dorfetfbire, being (as 1 am told) the firft who: planted them in

England. The Dutch thred Red Cabbage, and drefs’d with Oy/ and
Vinegar, eat it raw.

Cardon, See Artichaux.

14. Carrots, Dauci, or Paftinaca Sativa tenuifolia ; temperately
warm and dry, fpicy: The beft are yellow, very nourifhing. Let
them be raisd in Ground naturally rich, but not too heavy. A/e
brew'd with the wild Dawor-Seed, is exceedingly commended by
thofe who are affli@ted with the Stone and Gravel. .

15. Chervile, Charophilum, Sativum Myrrbis ; the fweet, aro- .
matick (and as the French call it, Mu/que) Spanifh Chervile, mo- ~
derately hot and dry, is beft: The tender Cimz, and Tops, with
other Herbs, are never to be wanting in our Sa/lets, (as long as
they may be had) being exceedingly wholfom, and chearing the
Spirits: The Roots are alfo boil’d, and eaten cold; much com-
mended for Aged Perfons : This (as likewife Spinach) is usd in
Tarts, and ferves alone for divers Sauces.

Chalots, .
Cibbolsg Vide Onions, Schanopraffon.
Cives,

16. Clary, Horminum Sativum. Sclarea dictum; when tender,
not to be rejected; and, in Omlets, made up with Cream, fried in
Sweet Butter, aroeaten with Sugar, Juice of Orange or Lemon,

17. Clavers, Goofe-grafs, Aparine, or Philanthropos Diofcor. &e.
the tender Winders, with young Neft/e-tops, are usd in Lenten

~ Pottages.

18. Corn-Sallet, or Lambs-Lettuce, V’alerianella Campeftris in

.edora major, B. P. Album olus Dod. Lattuca agnina (by the French,

Maches ; ) loofening and refrefhing : The Tops and Leaves being a
Sallet ot themfelves, feafonably eaten with other Salleting, the
whole Winter long, and early Spring: They call them Salad de
Preter, for their being generally eaten in Lent.

19. Cowllips, Verbafcum pratenfe odoratum, or Paralyfis : See
Flowers. a ee

20. Crefles, Naflurtium Hortenfe, Garden Creffes ; the éroad-
leav'd beft to be Monthly fown : But above all, the Indian, (by
the French called Capuchin) moderately hot, and aromatick, quicken ~

22s ee : the

ACETARIA
the torperit’ Spirits, and e the Brain, and are of fingular
Effect said te SorBate. Hoch the Flowers tender helerCe
lices, Capuchin Capers, anid Flowers, are laudably mixed with the
colder Plants. The Byds, as alfo the young green Seeds, being
Pick?d or Caadyd, are likewife us’¢ in Strewings all Winter.
" There is’ the Nafer-Hybernicum commended: alfo for an Anti-
fcorbutick Sallet, and likewife the vulgar Water-Crefs, boil’d in
Lenten Pottage, and whilft the Leaves are tender (being all of the
fame Nature, tho’ of different Degrees and Tribes, and beft for
raw and cold Stomachs) may properly be eaten im the Spring, but
nourifh little, ;

Note, Inthe mean tine, that Creffes (being of feveral Zrizes)
the Zndian Nafturtium is, Planta fui generis, quite of a different
Genus : But for thaé Crefs-like Mordacity, are called all Creffes ;
and therefore here ranged together.

21. Cucumber, Cucumis Sativus ; tho’ very cold and moift, the .

moft approved Sallet alone, ot itt Compofition of all the Vinai-
"“Eeovs dee grets, to fharpen the Appetite, and cool the Liver, * &c. if right-
hiciwaG, ly prepard; that is, by rectifying the vulgar Miflake, of altoge-
sprms. ther extracting the Juice, in which it fhould rather be foak’d :
Athen. Nor ought it to bé over-oy/’d, too mach abating of its grateful
Acidity, and palling the Tafte, from a contratiety of Particles :
Let them thereforg bé pared, and cut in thin Slices, with a Slice or
two of Onion to correct the Crudity, macerated in the Juice,’
often turn’d, and moderately drain’d. Others prepare them, by
fhaking the Slices between two Difhes, and drefs them’ with
very little Oy/, well beaten, and mingled with the Juite of Limon,
Orange, or Vinegar, Salt and Pepper. Some again, (and indeed the _
moft approv'd) eat them as foon as they are cut, retaining their
Liquor, which being exhaufted (by the former Method) have
nothing remaining:in them to help the Concoétion. Of old,
* Cucumis they * boil’d the Cucumber, and paring off the Rind, eat them
—_—— with Oy/, Vinegar, and Honey ; Sugar not being fo well known.
centior. A-, Laftly, the Pu/p in Broth is greatly refrefhing, and may be ming-
theneuss Jed in moft Sallets, without the leaft damage, contrary to the
common Opinion ; it not being long, fince Cucuméer, however
. drefsd, was thought fit to be thrown away, being accounted
little better than Porfon : And very probably it was {o, whén the
innale Liquor (which helps to concoct the cold, almoft indigefti-
ble, Subftance, was exhaufted. Tavernier tells us, that in the
Levant, if a Child ery for fomething to eat, they give it a raw
Cucumber inficad of Bread... The young ones may be boil’d in
White-wine, The fmaller fort (known by the name of Gerckems)
muriated with the Seeds of. Didl,.and..the Mango Pickle, arc for
the Winter. :

22. Daily, Buphthalmum, Ox-Eye, or Bellis-major : The young
Roots are trequently eaten by the Spaniards and Italians all the
Spring, till Fuse. , i

23. Dande-

in the Spring, (till fuch time as the Flower-Stalks are thot up) and
fold in moft Herb-Shops about London, for being a wonderful Pu-
rifier of the Blood, and Axtifcorbutic; upon which account, they
are juftly efteemd an ‘excellent Vernal Sallet :-Jt was with this
joanicy as the Good-Wife Hecate entertain’d Thefeus. ‘See
owthiltle. .

24. Dock, Oxylapathum, or fharp-pointed Dock : Emollient,

and tho otherwife not for our Sader, the Roots brew'd in Ale or
Beer, are excellent for the Scorbute. See-Patience.

25. Earth-Nots, Bulbo-Caftarum, called in the North, where

-they moft abound, Kopper-nuts, Pig-muts, and \Ger-nuts; (found

alfo in divers Places of Surry near KXingfton, and other Parts, in
Meadows and Grafs-felds) are of the Umbeliferous Tribe ; they
flower in Jue and Fuly, but the Nuts are in their prime in May,
or beginning of Fume, when the Stalk begins to appear, by which
they are the more eafily difcovered : The ‘Rind pard,off, are~
eaten crude by Rufticks, with a little Pepper ; -but are beft boil’d
like other Roots, or in Pottage rather; and are {weet and nourith-
ing. . .

26. Elder, Sambucus: The Flowers infus'd in Vinegar, grate-
ful both to the Stomach and Tafte ; attenuates thick and vifcid
Humours ; and tho’ the Leaves are fomewhat rank of Smell, and
fo not commendable in Sader, they are otherwife (as indeed is

the entire Shrub) of the moft Sovereign Vertue ; and the Spring

Buds and tender Leaves, excellently wholfom in Pottage at that
Seafon of the Year. Small Ale in which Elder-Flowers have been
infus'd, is by many efteem‘d fo falubrious and palatable, as it is of
late grown into fo great Vogue, that it is to be had in many of.

the Publick Eating-Houies about Town. See Flowers.

27. Endive, Exdivia, Intubus Sativa, Garden broad-leav'd, dif-
ferent from the Erratic, or wild (tho’ probably by Culture only )

the largeft, whiteft, and tendereft ‘Leaves, -beft boil'd, and lefs
_ erude, It is naturally cold, profitable for hot Stomachs ; incifive

and opening Obfiructions of the Liver :“The curled is more deli- -
cate, being eaten alone, or in-Gompofition, with the ufual Js-
tindlus : It is alfo-excellent, being boil’d ; the middle part of the
blanch'd Leaves feparated, eats firm, and the ampler Leaves,” by
many, preferr’d before Lettuce, See Succory.
Etchalot, See Oxions. > .
Vvvv2 . 28, Fennel,

i52

| ACETARIA x

28. Fennel, Feniculum. . We have it from Bolognia,. but the
fweeteft and mioft aromatick comes from the Azores (Feniculum
dulce Azoricum ;) hot and dry, expels Wind, fharpens the Sight,
and recreates the Brain; efpecially the tender Umbella, and: young

Seeds annex’dto them. The Stalks white, plump, and foft, are A ;

to be peel'd, ‘and then drefs’d like Sellery, The early tender Tufts
of the emerging Leaves, being minc’d, are eaten alone with Vine-
gar, or Oyl and Pepper, and to correct the colder Materials, enter
properly into Compofition. The /talians eat the blanch'd Stalk

. Cwhich they call Cartucci) all Winter'long. ' There is a very {mall

Green-Worm, which fometimes lodges in the Stem of this Plant,

, which is to be taken out, as the Red one in that of Sellery,

29. Flowers, Flores ; chiefly of the Aromatic Efculents and Plants
are preferable, as generally endow’d with the Vertues of their
Simples, in. a more intenfe degree ; and may therefore be eaten

alone in their proper Vehicles, or Com pofition with other Salleting,

fprinkl'd among them : But give a more palatable Relith, be-
ing infus'd in Vinegar ; efpecially thofe of the Clove-Fuly- flower,
Elder, Orange, Coiflip, Rofemary, Arch- Angel; Sage, Nafturtium
Indicum, &c.* Soméd of ‘them are: Pickl'd, and divers of them
make alfo very pleafant and wholfom ‘Theas, as do likewife the
wild Time, Buglo/s, Mint, &c. -

\ .

30. Garlick, Allium; dry towards Excefs; and tho’ both by
Spaniards and Italians, and the more Southern People, fami-
liarly eaten, with almoft every thing, and efteem’d of fuch fingu-
lar Vertue to help Concoétion, and thought a Charm againft all
Infection and Poifon (by which it has obtain’d the Name of the
Country-man’s Theriacle,) we yet think’ it more proper for our
Northern Ruttics, efpecially living in wliginous and moift Places,

. or fuch as ufe the Sea: Whilft we abfolutely forbid it entrance

into our Salleting, by reafon of itsintclerable ranknefs, and which
made it fo detefted of old, that the cating of it was (as we read) part
of the Punifhment for fuch as had committed the horrid'ft Crimes.
To be fure, “tis not fit for Ladies Palates, nor thofe who court
them, farther than to permit a light touch on the Dith with a
Clove thereof, much better fupply'd by the gentler Roccombole.
Note, That in Spain they fometimes eat Garlick boil'd, which

" taming its Fiercenefs turns it into Nourifhment, or rather Me-

dicine,

31. Roccombole or Rocembole, Names of late Years not known
with us ; are diftinguith’d by thofe fmall Bulbs which compofe the
Head of the Spanifh Vipers, Garlick Ophiofcoridon, or Scorodopraffum
alterum bulbofo & convoluto capite,

32. Leeks, Porrum Capitatum hot, and of Vertue faid to be
prolifick, fince Latona, the Mother of Apollo, long’d after them :

‘The Welk, who eat them much, are obferv'd to be very fruitful ;

they

- afew therefore of the tender and Breen Summities a little thred, do

ACETARIA

they are alfo ‘friendly to the Lungs and Stomach, being fod in Milk:

. mot amifs in Compofitions.

' Bulbs with folid flat Leaves ; Graveolentes, ftrong fcented Bulbs,

~

Garlick, Roccombole, and Leeks, are all of the fame Affinity.

and would be very naufeous to us, efpecially our Ladies, untefs
they were as generally eaten by that nice Sex, as they are among
thofe of Spain. Near related to thefe, are Onions; which we re
fer to intheir Place in the Alphabet. “|

- Guiney-Pepper, Capficum, is a Species of Solanum, without any
relation to our Pepper, but for its Piccancy and Mordacity ;
which we fhall fay more of hereafter.

33. Goats-beard, Trago-pogon ; but of late they have Ztaljaniz’d
the Name, and now generally call it Sa/ifix ; and our Seed-Sellers,
to difguife it, being a very common Field Herb, growing in moft
Parts of England, would have-it thought (with many others) an
Exotick, and call it Sa/ffy and Safify ; whilft, by whatever Name
dignify’d or diftinguith’d, it muft be own’d to be an excellent Sal/er-
Root, and very nutritive, and may be ftew’d and drefs’d as Sora
zomera, exceedingly amicable to the Breaft.

34. Hops, Lupuluss hot and moift, rather Medicinal than fit
for Sallets : The Buds and young Turiones of the Tendrels excepted,
which may be eaten raw; but more conveniently being boil’d,
and cold like 4/paragus : They are Dieuretic; depurate the Blood,
open Obftructions, very wholfom and grateful to the Pa/lare.

35- Hyflop, HAyffopus; Thymus Capitatus: Creticus; Majoran,

inter-Savory, Satureia domeftica, Thymus vulgaris, Caltha vulgaris,
Mary-gold, &c.-as all hot, {picy Aromatics, Caeapahoeh growing
in Kitchin-Gardens) are of Faculty to: comfort and ftrengthen ;
prevalent, againft Melancholy and Phlegm: Plants, like thefe,
going under the Names of. Pot-Herbs, are much more proper for
Brotbs and Decoftions, than the tender Sal/et: Yet the Tops and
Flowers reduc’d to Powder, are by fome referv’d for Strewings
upon the colder Ingredients ; communicating no ungrateful Fra-
grancy : See the true Zhyme of the Ancients.

36. Jack-by-the-Hedge, AJiaria, (fo call’d from its Allium-like
Sapor and Odour) or Sauce-alone ; has many Medicinal Properties,
and-is eaten, as other Sallets, by, all Lovers of Garlick, (the An-

“tients us'd it as a Succedaneum to Scordium) efpecially by Country-

People, growing wild under their Banks and Hedges.

37- Judas’s-Tree, Arbor Jude : Its pretty lightecolour’d. Pa:
pilonaceous Flowers have a very grateful Acidity , and thereby
gain’d Admittance amongft our Acetaria. ;

Leeks, See Garlick.

153

TS dee as S eee

Saas

Sane. are

a
Srepobeitens

a le

ia: — ACETARIA

* Eubulus. 8. Lettuce, Lafuca Sativa : Tho’ by Metaphor call'd * Mortuz
"+ In La€tuca aa Cibi, (to fay nothing of + Adonis and his fad Mifrefs) by
ocoumatum . reafon of its Soporiferous Quality, ever was, and ftill continues,
a Venere A- per : .

donin cecinie the principal Foundation of the univerfal Tribe of Sallets ; which
_ Calimachw, is to cool and refrefh, befides its other Properties: And therefore
~ AeSineerpe in fuch high Efteem with the Ancients, that divers of the Valerian
‘tatus avbene- Family, dignify’d and enobled their Name with that of Laéty-
we illuc refe- cinii. ;

pig yl It is, indeed, of Nature more cold and moift than any of the

Venerem he veft, yet lefs aftringent, and fo harmlefs, that it may fafely be
ge one tag eaten raw in Fevers; for it allays Heat, bridles Choler, extin-
fcentesaflic puifhes Thirft, excites Appetite, kindly nourithes ;' and, above all,
se reprefles Vapours, conciliates Sleep, mitigates Pain ; befides the
Effe& it has upon the Morals, Zemperance and Chaftity. Galen
(whofe beloved Sallet it was) from its pinguid, fubdulcid, and
agreeable Nature; fays it breeds the moft laudable Blood, No
marvel then that they were by the Ancients called Sana, by way
l| Apud Sue- of eminency, and fo highly valu‘d by the great || Auguflus, that
tone, attributing his Recovery of a dangerous Sicknefs to them, ‘tis
reported, he erected a Statue, and built an Altar to this noble
*Vopifcus Plant. And that the moft abftemious and excellent Emperor * Ta-
it y citus (Spending almoft nothing at his frugal Table in other Dain-
sah aad a ties) was yet{o greata.Friend to Lettuce, that he wag us'd to fay
Vertu Let» of his Prodigality, Somnum Se mercari illa fumptus effufione. How
Fl Nav tain: it was-celebrated by Galen we have heard ; how he us’d it he tells
c 8. aud xx. himfelf; namely, '-beginning with Letruce in his younger Days,
ca; Femel and concluding with it when he grew old, and that to his great
; Advantage. In .a word, we meet‘with nothing among all our
crude Materials and Sa/let Store, fo Proper to mingle with ‘any of
thereft, nor fo wholfom to be eaten alone,. or in ‘Compofition,
moderately, and “with the ufual-Oxolyum of Vinegar, Pepper, and
Oyl, &c. which laft does not ree with the Alphange,
to which the Sugar, is more de-
firable : Ari i irrigated his Lettuce-Beds
with an Otnomelite, or Ffoney: And certainly
‘tis not for nothi
Sallet, have been
ble Plant, and multi
ufe :' We have the 4,
Arabic,

ACETARIA

now Sugar is almoft wholly banith’d from all, except the more

effeminate Palates, as too much palling, and taking irom the
rateful. Acid now in uft, tho’ otherwife not totally to be reproved :
tuce boil'd.and condited is {ometimes {poken of,

39. Limon or Lemmons, Limonia, Citrea mala; exceedingly
refrefhing, Cordial, &c. The Pulp being blended with the Juice,
fecluding the over-fweet or bitter. See Orange.

oS ,

40. Mallow, Malva; Malva Crifpa, French curl’d Maunves, the
moit preferable, is emollient, and friendly to the Ventricle. and
fo rather Medicinal ; yet may the Tops, well boil’d, be admitted,
and the reft (tho’ ot of ufe at prefent) was taken by the Poets
for all Saderts in generd, Pythagoras held Malve folium Sanctiffi«
mum; and we find Epimenides in* Plato at his Mallows and A4/-" De Legib.
phodel; and, indeed, it was of Old the firft Dith at Table,: The
Romans had it. alfo in deliciis, * Malue falubres corpori, approved ‘Ho Epod +r,
by + Galen and || Diofcorides ; namely, the Garden- Mallow, by others ee
the Wild ; but, I think, both proper rathe¥ for the Por. than Sai- " Liki sop
let, Nonius fuppofes the tall Rofea, Arborefcent Holi-hecks, that
bears the broad Flower, for the beft, and very ew
q laxative; but by reafon of their Claiteaiges iGieeee ee
and or, banifhed from our Sallet, tho’ by fome ‘ Perales Bertie Gaus ha-
commended and eaten with Oyé and Vinegar, and = °* ny awa
fome with Batter. ——Nulla eft bumanior herba,

The French in their early Spring Sallets, add the digas ey {Yi commo-
young Tops and tender Leaves of the Marfo-mal- Qmaia tam placid? regerat,
low, which they call Guémiauve, for a moft admirable eo ae ate
Nephritick, as is alfo the $ yrupus Altheus, eile edi Cook Plan. Le rs ,

Mercury, See Biite.

4. Melon, Melo; to have been reckon’d rather among Fruits ;
and tho’ an ufual Ingredient in our Sallet, yet for its tranfcendent
Delicacy and Flavour, cooling and exhilarating Nature, (if {weet,
dry, weighty, and well-fed) not only fuperior to all the Gourd-
kind, but Paragon, with the nobleg Productions of the Garden:
Fol. Scaliger, and Cafanbon, think our Melon unknown to the Ag-
cients, (which others contradict) as yet under the Name of Cy-
cumbers: But he who reads how artificially they were. cultivated,
rais'd under Glaffes, and exposd to the hot-Sua,-€for Tiberias >)
cannot well doubt of their being the fame with ours.

There is alfoa Wi

) Wie is judg’d the better: That
cus'‘d, as apt to corrupt in the Sto-

» think both. this Cucumber and Let-
to hinder and intangle the Amimal
enin excels) is not deny’d : But a
perfect

| ACETARIA
perfect good Melon is certainly as harmlefs a Fruit as any whatfo-

ever ; and may fafely be mingled with Sallet, in Pulp or Slices, —

or more properly eaten by it felf, with a little Salt and Pe per’ s

_. for a Melon which requires Sugar to commend it, wants of Per.
r &

fection. '
Note, That this Fruit was very rarely cultivated in England, fo
as to bring it to Maturity, till Sir Geo. Garduer came out of Spain.
I my felf remembring, when an ordinary Melon would have been
fold for five or fix Shillings. The fmall unripe Fruit, when the
others are paft, may be Pickl'd like Mango, and are very delicate.

42. Mint, Mentha; the Anguftifolia Spicata, Spear-Mint ; dry
and warm, very fragrant, a little prefs’d, is friendly to the
weak Stomach, and powerful againft all nervous Crudities: The
gentler Tops of the Orange-Mint, enter well into our Compofition,
or are grateful alone (as are alfo the other forts) with the Juice

- of Orange, and a little Sugar. The French chiefly efteem the

*Cic. ad Ate

tie.

Mentha Sativa Crifpa or Curl’d Mint, (which they call Baume)
and mix it with their Sallets, |

43. Muthroms, Fungi Efculenti: By the * Orator call’d Ferra;

by Porphyry, Déorum filii ; without Seed (as produc’d by the Mid-

wifty of Autumnal Thunder-Storms, portending the Mifchief they -

caufe) by the French, Champignons, with all the Species of the
Boletus, &¢. for being; as fome hold, neither Root, Herb, Flower,
nor Fruit, nor ‘to be eaten crude; fhould be therefore banith’d

- entry into our Sallet, were I to order the Compofition; however

* Sueton. in
Claudi.
F Sen. Ep.

]xiii.

i Plin. NE.

4 Xxii, ¢. 23.

fo highly contended for by many, as the very principal and top
of all the reft; whilft I think them tolerable only (at léaft in
this Climate) if being freth and skilfully chofen, they are ac-
commodated with the niceft Care and Circumf{pedtion ; generally
reported to have fomething malignant and noxious in them:
Nor without Caufe ;: from the many fad Examples, frequent
Mifchiefs, and funeft Accidents they have produc’d, not only to
particular Perfons, but whole Families: Exalted, indeed, they
were to the fecond Courfe of the Cefarian Tables, with the noble
Title Botiug Oedv, a Dainty fit for the Gods alone; to whom they
fent the Emperor * Claudius, as they have many fince, to the other
World. But he that reads how Seneca + deplores—histott Friend,
that brave Commander Anmeus Serenus, and feveral other gallant
Perfons with him, who all of them perifhed at the fame Repatt,
would be apt to‘ask with the |] Naturaliff peaking ‘of this fufpi-
cious Dainty) Que voluptas tanta ancipitis cibi2 And who,
indeed, would hazard it ? So true is that of the Poet ; He that eats
Mufbroms, many times Nil amplius edit, eats no more perhaps
all his Life after. What other deterring Epithets are given for our
Caution, Bzpn mvijderm «xmrev, heavy and choaking. (Athenaus
reporting of the Poet Exripides’s finding a Woman and her Three
Children ftrangl'd by eating of them) one would think fufficient
warning. Aen

Among

_ Lubera Terre,

other Places ;
France; as we,d
ith -Pep=
» and rooted our
greedy Swine,
nut Colour, and head

after: By many believ’d to have o
ther out of: France, when by a very

. Were firit difcover’d by the almoft incr.
- allur’d by the Scent of the Trufles of

i t adjacent Fields, and
coud fearce be kept off with the Spades and Dogs of the Labourers,

who, in order to plant the Wilderne/s, were diggirg up a piece
of Ground, in which fome Trees fent out of France had been
planted, with the Ca/e-Earth adhering to the Roots, flung into

the Holes. If this be the Origin of the Ru/bton Trufles, “twill con-.

firm the Opinion of Trufles being no Natives of England, unlels
fprung here from thofe brought from Foreign Parts, “In the
meanwhile, one brought.from Abroad, is, with its fmall fibrous
Roots, delineated im the Philof. Tranfait. CN®. 202.) which doth
fully deffionftrate the Error of the Ancients and Moderns, who
affert, That they have no Root ; when probably they were rub’d
off when they were dug out of the Ground, -and being fo very

mall, not heedfully minded or perceived. How thefe rank and

Provocative Excrefcences are:to be * treated (of themfelves infipid
enough, and only famous for their kindly taking any Pickle or
Comditure) that they. may do the lefs Mifchief, we might here
fet down. But fince there be fo many ways of drefling them
that I can.encourage none to ufe them, for Reafons given (be-

' fides that they do not at all concern our fafer and innocent SaZet

Furniture) I forbear it ; and refer thofe who ]
loved Ragout, and other Voluptuaria Venena
to—what—our-Learned Dr. Lyfer + fays of
dnfecis harbouring and corrupting i

Mu(fbroms. had lately én deliciis.

Vil. $47, $485

certain-fuppofed Stone, but in truth, (¢. Kew,

Xx x x

'G7

-

iki ai
“+58 - ACETARIA,

" Gaffend.vi-* Peéresky tells us, he found to be) nothing but an heap of old
t4 Peiref.liV* Fyyoys's. yeduc’d and compacted to a ftony hardnefs, upon which

Raderus Mart.

1. Epig xvi they lay Earth, and fprinkle it with warm Water, in which Mujs-

In ponticum, roms have been fteeped. And in France, by making an hot Bed ~

ban" of Affes or Horfes Dung, and when the heat is in Temper, wa-
tering it (as above) well impregnated with the Parings and Offals
of refufe Fungus’s ; and fuch a Bed will laft two or three Years ;
and fometimes our common. Melon-Beds afford them; befides
other Experiments : Among which is the Cuttings of the White-
Poplar or Abele, almoft to the very Root, plentifully foaked with
hot Water fermented with Yeft; which produces thofe Fang, in a
few Days very eatable and agreeable. Others affirm the fame
of the loofe Chips of the fame Tree, being bury’d in a rich
dung’d Bed.

44- Muftard, Sinapi; exceeding hot and mordicantZ “not only
in the Seed but Leaf alfo; efpecially in Seedling young Plants,
like thofe of Radifhes (newly peeping out of the Bed) is of
incomparable effect to quicken and revive the Spirits ; “{trengthen-
ing the Memory, expelling Heavinefs, preventing the Vertiginous

. Palfy, and is a laudable Cephalick : Befides it is an approv’d Aati-
Scorbutick ; aids Concoétion, cuts and diffipates Phlegmatick Hu-
mours. In fhort, ’tis the moft noble Embamma, and fo neceflary
an Ingredient to all cold and raw SaZeting, that it is very rarely,
if atall, to be left out. In Ztaly, in making Muffard, they
mingle-Limon and Orange-Peel with the Seeds. How the beft is
ne fee hereafter.

Nafturtium Indicum, See Creffes.

45. Nettles, Urtica; hot, dry, Dieuretic, Solvent; purifies the
Blood: The Buds, and very tender Cyma, .a little bruis’d, are by
fome eaten raw, by others boild, efpecially in Spring-Pottage,
with other Herbs.

46. Onion, Cepa Vulgaris, Porrum: The beft are fuch as are
brought us out of Agypt or Spain, whence they of St. Omers had
them, and fome that have weighed Eight Pounds. Choofe there-
fore the large, round, white, and thin skin’d. Being eaten crude

and alone with Oy/, Vinegar, and Pepper, we own them, in Sai

let, not fo hot as Garlick, nor at all fo rank: Boil’d, they give
a kindly Relifh; raife Appetite, corroborate the Stomach, cut
Phlegm, and profit the A/tbmatical : But eaten in excefs, are faid
to offend the Head and Eyes, unlefs edalcorated with a gentle
Maceration. In the mean time, as to their being noxious to
the Sight, is imputable only to the Vapour rifingfrom the
_faw Onion, when peel'd, which fome commend for its purging
and quickning that Senfe. How they are usd in Pottage, boil’d
‘in’ Milk, ftrew’d, @c. concerns the Kitchin. In our cold Sailer
we fupply them with the -Porrum Secfivum, Tops of sta 29

: : — — : Efcha-

=A

ACETARI1 4 “499

” eichale) (Afcalonica) of guft moreexalted, yet not to the degree
ot Garlick, Or by what. of later ufe is much preferr’d) with a

_ Bulb or two of Raccombole, of a yet milder and delicate Nature,

which by rubbing the Dith only, imparts its Vertue agreeably
enough. In /taly they frequently make a Sa4et of Schalions, Ci-
ves, and Cibfols only feafon'd with Oy/ and Pepper ; and an honeft |
laborious Country-map, with good Bread, Salt, anda little -
Parfley, will make a contented Meal with a roafted Onion. How.
this noble Buld was deify’d in * Agypt we are told, and that ‘0 Sanas
whilft they were ‘building the Pyramids, there was {pent:in this rt,
Root + Ninety Tun of Gold-among the Workmen..So-luthious cunturin i.
and tempting it feems they were, that as whole Nations have ti .
f{ubfifted on them alone, fo the J/raelites were ready to return aye 15.
to Slavery and Brick-making for the love of them. Indeed AYeca- t Herodotus.
medes we find prefents them to Patroclus, in Homer, asa Regalos
But certainly we are either miftaken in the Species, (which fome will
have to be Melons) or ufe Poetick Licence, when we fo highly
magnify them. This Mention of the //raelites Fondnefs of them,
calls to mind what that noble (but unfortunate) Earl of Sandwich
told me, That being with the Fleet inthe Mediterranean, near they
Coaft of Agypr, he had- brought him Ovsons little inferior ia
Tafte to Melons. . ;

47+ Scalions or Cibbols, Cipoliné, (as the French and Jtalians
call them) are degenerate Onions, participating with them in.
their Qualities.

~48. Cives, Porram SeAivum junci folium 5 oras the French, Ci-
ves d Angleterre & Appelites ; which they (as alfo do the Scalions)
notably ftir up and quicken. .

49- Efchalots or Schalots, Cepa Afcalonica ; correct Crudities,
and promote Concodtions. The /talians fteep them in Wine, and
eat them cold, with Oy/, Vinegar, and Salt. The Learned Ste-
phanus Morisus, in his Notes on Steph. Byzawtinus, (annex'd to
thofe of the Famous * Bocbart) tells us, That none, fave the * Bocharti o-
dregs of the People, among the Greciuns, us’d to eat Garlick, or pera, £4:*.

Lugd. Bat.

Onions ; but the Jdwmeans, and their Nei urs, efteem’d them 172, 5:
as_ their moft delicious Fare, efpecially a fort they had from
Afcalon ; whence it derives its Name.

In fhort Ouions, Scalions, Cives, Ffcalets, &c. are all of the
fame Family, Graweolentes, ftrong-{cented Balts, with folid flat
Leaves. See Garlick, to which they are cognate.

50. Orach, Artiplex : Is cooling, allays the Pituit Humour :
- Being fet over the Fire, neither this, nor Lettuce, needs any other

* Water than their own Moifture to boil them in, without Ex-

preflion : The tender Leaves are mingld with other cold Sa/-

deting ; but ‘tis better in Pottage : There are fome of white, ‘red,

or purple ; the beft Seed comes from 7arkey. See Blitum.
Xxxx2 51. There

q

ACETARIA

sx. There is another Atriplex Mgritima , Fruticofa, call’d Shrub
. Halimus, or Sea Orach, whofe new’ peeping Leaves (tho rarely
usd) afford a no unpleafant Acidule, even during Winter, if it
‘prove not too fevere. ‘

52. Orange, Malus Aurantia, (Malum aureum) moderately dry,
cooling, and incifive; fharpens Appetite, exceedingly refrefhes,
and refifts Putrefaction: We fpeak of the Sub-acid; the {weet
4nd bitter Orange being of no ufe in our Sadet. The Limon is
fomewhat.more acute, cooling and extinguifhing Thirft ; of all
the OfGapa, the belt fuccedaneum to Vinegar. The very Spoils
and Rinds of Orange and Limon being fhred and fprinkl'd among
the other Herbs, correct the Acrimony. But they are the tender
Seedlings from the Hot-Bed, which impart an Aromatic exceeding-
ly grateful to the Stomach. Vide Limon. .

53. Parfnep, Paffinaca, Latifolia Sativa; firft boifd, being
cold, is of it felf a Winter-SaZer, eaten with Oy/, Vinegar, &c.
and having fomething of Spicy, is, by fome, thought more nou-
rifhing than the Zurnip.

54. There is alfo the Water-Parfnip, Sium Majus Latifolium :
The crude tender Leaves,-early in the Spring are eaten in Spazn ;
are very grateful for the Stomach, and a fovereign Remedy againtft
the Gravel in the Kidney, or Stone in the Bladder : But operates
much more efficacioufly, if a good Handful of the whole Plast
(whilft moft flourifhing) be boild in a Pint of White-wine Poffet-
drink, and the percolated Liquor drank warm. In the Winter-
time, and when the Plant is in decay, if a large Spoonful of
the Powder of the Leaves’ (gather'd and dry’d in the Summer)
be taken in Poffet-drink. seit

55. Patience, Lapathum Hortenfe Sativum, (to which may be
join’d the Sanguineum or Blood-wort) being boil'd, is a palatable
and wholfom Efculent ; laxative and emollient : All the Lapatha’s
and Docks have, in fome degree, the Faculties of Rheubarb, be-
ing of the fame Family. Vide the Sharp-pointed Dock.

56. Peafe, Pifam :—The—Pod-of the Sugar-Peafe, -when-firk
beginning ‘to appear, with the A’usk and Tendrels, affording a
pretty Acid, enters into the Compofition, as do thofe of Hops
and the Vine. :

57. Pepper, Piper; hot and. dry in a high degree; of ap~
prov'd Vertue againft all Flatulency proceeding from cold and
phlegmatic Conftitutions, and generally all Crudities-whatfoever ;
and therefore for being of univerfal ufe to correct and temper the

- cooler Herbs, and fuch as abound in Moifture, it is a never to be
omitted Ingredient of our Sa/ets, provided it be not too mi-
_nutely

———

~ Buds of the Walnut-Tree, dry’d to

»

LN nutely beaten (as oft we find it) to an almott impaldable Duft,

ACETARI A

which is very periicious, and frequently adheres and fti i
the folds. of the:Stomach, hae inftead of itinie Con
coction, it often caufés a Cardialzinm, and fires the Blood = It
oe therefore be grofly contus’d only. :
Indian, or Solanum Capficum, fuperlatively hot and burnin
is yet by the Africans, as alfo the Semae Americans ‘eae
with Salt and Vinegar by it felf, as an ufual Condiment ; but
wou'd be of dangerous confequence with us, being fo, ‘much

more of an acrimonious and terribly biting? Quality; whi
) . : <e/ 3 which, b
Art and Mixture, is, notwithftanding, render'd doe ole fafe, bee

very agreeable in our Sa/et.

‘Take the Pods, and dry them well in a Pan: and when they
are become fufficiently hard, cut them into {mall Pieces and
ftamp ‘em in a Mortar to duft: To each Ounce of which add

a Pound of Wheat-flour, fermented with a little Levain : Kneed

and make them into Cakes or Loaves cut long-wife. i
of Naples-Bifcuit. Thefe re-bake a fecond saa, a bbe
“Stone-hard : Pound them again as before, and ferce it thro’ a
fine Sieve, for a very proper Seafoning, inftead of vulgar Pep-
per. The Mordicancy thus allay’d, be fure to make the Mortar
very clean, after having beaten Indiam Capficum, before you
{tamp any thing in it elfe. The green -Husks, or firft peeping
Aegaer ferve for Pepper: in
= hegre Peg Myrtle-berries ; which Pliny tells us, the
ncients made ufe of inftead of Pepper, ,
Vertue and Ufe of that Grain. eS eo a
That great Botani/?, the Learned and Excellent Dr. Sloane, (not
to be mention’d by me without fingular Refpect) in his_moft
admirable and ufeful Catalogue of Famaica Plants, has difcovered:
to us, that the 7Zree which bears the famous Spice call'd fweets

feented Jamaica Pepper, (or Ad-Spice) is a Species of Myrtle, b
* him call'd Myrtus Arborea aromatica foliis Laurinis : The eccutane :

Defcription of which, expec from this Learned Doétor, when
€his bufy Profeffion allowing leifute) he fhall have oblig’d the
curious World with a finifh’d Impreflion of that incomparable
Piece, The Natural Hiftory of Jamaica, and the other Caribbe
Dflands, with an Account of his Voyage.

58. Parfley,Apium Hortenfe,Petrofelinum-vulgare-s—The-curt'd
leav'd; Apinm Cri/pum, moft preferable, being hot and dry
opens Obitructions, is very Dieuretic, yet nourithing, edulcorated
in thifted warm Water, (the Roots efpecially)) but of lefS Vertue
than Alexanders ; nor fo convenient in our crude Sallet, as when
decocted on a Medicinal Account. - Some few Tops of the tender
Leaves may yet be admitted ;- tho’ it was of old, we read, never
brought to the Table at all, as facred to Odlivium and the De-

funtt, In the mean time, there being nothing more proper for

Stuffing, (Farces) and other Sauces, we confign it to the Olitories.
Note, That Parfley is not fo hurtful to the Eyes as is reported.
eee 59. Purflain,

Fe ea eisaabeeee ca LR Pia ag ~ Ties.
- =a ao - = B - J x fe Tale. <3
epee iA Ticats toe ks shonin SPAS See . = por saee
_— Se = = PSs = a
ST a eagape X ~ - a

ead cs

g ses
oes 7 ft

ACETARDA |

59. Purflain, Portulaca Hortenfis ; efpecially the Golden, whiltt
tender, the Seed-leaves, with the young Stalks, being eminently
moitt and cooling, quickens Appetite, aflwages Thirft, and is

very profitable for hot and Bélious Tempers, as well as Sanguine, —

and generally entertain’d in all our Safets, mingled with the
Sere Herbs : “Tis likewife familiarly eaten alone with Oyé and
Vinegar ; but with Moderation, as having fometimes found

to corrupt ia tie Stomach, which being Pick?'d\’tis not fo aptto :

do. Some eat it cold, after it has been boil’d, which Dr. Afuffer
would have in Wine, for Nourifhment._ .

Purflain is accus‘'d for being hurtful to the Teeth, if too much
eaten. See Purflaw V. Orach.

6o. Radith, Raphanus, \Raves ¢ Albeit rather Medicinal, than
{o commendably accompanying our Sallets (wherein they often
lice the larger Roots) are much inferiour to the young Seed-
ling Leaves and Roots ; raifed on the * Monthly A/or-Bed, almoft

dies oi the whole Year round, affording a very grateful Mordacity, and

quia tertio a

fatu die appa-

reat.
a.

{ufficiently attempers the cooler Ingredients ¢ The bigger Roots

(fo much defir'd) fhould be fuch as being tranfparent, eat fhort

~ and quick,... without ftringinefs, and not too biting. Thefe are

- eaten-alone, with Sa/¢ only, as carrying their Pepper in them ;

+ De dixta
Lib. i. cap. 25+

and were, indeed, by Diofcorides and Pliny celebrated above all
Roots whatfoever ; infomuch as in the Delphic Temple, there
was Raphanus ex aura dicatus, a Radith of folid Gold ;-and ’tis
{aid of Mofchius, that he wrote a whole Volume in their Praife.
Notwithftanding all which, I am fure, the great + Aippocrates
utterly condemns them, as Vitiofe, innatantes aceaegre concoftiles.
And the Naturalift calls ic Cébus Thiberalis, fiteer for Ruflics than
Gentlemens Tables. And, indeod, (befides that they decay the
Teeth) Experience tells us, that asthe Prince of Phyficians
writes, It is hard of Digeftion, énixicous to the Stomach, caufing
naufeous Eruétations, and fometimes Vomiting, tho’ otherwife

dieuretic, and thought to repel the Vapours of Wine, when the

+DeAliment Wits were at their genial Clad. Diofcorides and + Galen difter
Facult, Ui. iis bout their Eating; One preferibes it before Meals, the latter for

after. Some macerate the young Roots in warm Milk, to ren-
der them more nourifbing.

There is a Raphanus rufticanus wiger Pyriformis, the Spanifh black
Horfe-Radifb, of a hotter Quality, and not fo. friendly to the
Head; but-a sotable Antifcorbutic, which. (being preferv'd
in Seed) may be eaten all the Winter, and:on that account an
excelleat Ingredient in the Compofition of Muftard; as are allo
the thin Shavings, mingled with our cold Herbs. And now be-
fore Ihave doae with this Root, for an excellent and univertal
Condiment, Take Eferfe-Radifh, (which is the Sylueflris Rufticanus)
whilft newly drawn out of the Earth, otherwife laid to fteep in
Water a-competent time; then grate it ona. Grater which bas
no bottom, that foit may pafs thro’ like a Mucilage, into~a Dith

he ; “ ~ of

;
ce

ACETARIA |

“of Earthen Ware : This temper’d with Vinegar in which a little
Sugar has been diffolv’d, you have a Sauce fupplying Muftard
to the Sa/et, and ferving likewife for any Dith befides.

61. Rampion, Rapuancalus, or the Efculent Campanula, by the
French, Reponces: The tender Roots are eaten in the Spring,
like thofe of Radi(bes, but much more nourifhing.

. 62, Rocket, Eruca Sativa ; hot and dry, is to be qualify’d
with Lettuce, Purcelaix, and the reft, c. See Tarragon.

_Roccombole, See Garlick.

63. Rofemary, Rofmarinus; Sovercignly Cephalick, and for
the Memory, Sight, and Nerves, incomparable: And tho’ not
us'd in the Leaf with our Sa/et Furniture, yet the Flowers a
little bitter, are always welcome in Vinegar ; but aboveall, a frefh
Sprig or two in a Glafs of Sherry-Sack. See Flowers.

64. Sage, Salvia; hot and dry. The Tops of the Fed, well
pick'd and wath’d (being often defitd-with’ venomous Slime, and
almoft imperceptible Zu/ecis) with the Flowers, retain all the noble
Properties of the other hot Plants; more efpecially for'the Head,
Memory, Eyes, and all Paratytical Affeétions. In fhort, ’tis a Plant
endu’d with fo. many and wonderful Properties, as that the
affiduous ufe of jt is faid to render Men Jmmortal: We cannot
therefore but allow the tender Summities of the young Leaves;
but principally the Flowers in our cold Saller; yet fo as not to
domineer: "Tis credibly affirm’d, That the ~Dzatch for fome time
drove a very lucrative Trade with the dry’d Leaves of what is
call'd Sage of Vertue, and Guernfey Sage; where it is in great
Efteem, and was there firft propagated from Plants brought out
of England : Both the Chinefes and Japanefes are great Admirers

of that fort of Sage, and fo far prefer it to their own 7ea,

(efteeming it much more wholfom, and perhaps they are in the
right) that for what Sage they purchafe of the Dutch, they give
triple the quantity of the choiceft Zea in exchange : Some Per-

fons here have a greater value for the Wormwood Sage than any
of the reft:

Salfifax, See Goats-beard.

65. Sampier, Crithmum Marinum ; French, Perce Pierre, for its
growing on the Sea-Cliffs, and in the Corners of the hardeft
Rocks (as about Dover, &c. from whence we have it) not only
pick?’'d, but crude and cold, when young and tender Cand fuch
as we may cultivate, and’ have in our Xitchin Gardens, almott
the Year round) and is in my Opinion, for its Aromatic, and
other excellent Vertues and Effects againft the Spleen, cleanfing
the Paflages;fharpning Appetite, Gc. fo far preferable-to-mort,

i J ‘

163

ACETARIA

of our hotter Herbs, and SaZet-Ingredients, that I have long
wonder’d, it has not been long fiance propagated in the Potagere,
as it is Fraxce ; from whence I have oftea receivd the Seeds,
which have profper’d better, and more kindly with me, than
what comes from: our own Coafls : It does not indeed pickle
fo well, as being of-a more tender Stalk and Leaf: But in all
other refpe‘ts for compofing SaZets, it has nothing like ic. 1f
the Seeds be fow'd in a gravelly Bank, expos’d to the South, or
under that warm A/pecf, it will infinuate it felf into the very Ma-
terials, and may be cut like other Sallet-Herbs, without detri-
‘ment, agd continue fpringing with little Culture; yet in ex-
ceffive Dearth, wet, or cold, afford it a little Shelter, and fo it
will laft an Ever-green, and may be apply’d for Bordering.

Scalions, See Onions.
66. Scurvy-grafs, Cochlearia major Rotundifolia, of the Garden ;

but efpecially that of the Seay Cochlearia folio finuato, or Bri-
tannica, is {harp, biting, and hot; of Nature like Na/lurtium,

prevalent in the Scorbute. A few of the tender Leaves-may—be ~~

admitted in our Compofition. See Naflartium Indicum.

65. Sellery, Apium Mitius Italicum, (-and. of the Petrofeline
Family) was formerly a Stranger with us (nor very long fince in
Italy it felf) as tothe Jtalian Name: Nor is it a diftinct Species
of Smallage, or Macedonian Parfley, tho’ fomewhat more hot and
generous by its frequent Trantplanting, and thereby render’d
fweeter fCented. . We have the beft Seeds from /taly, whole ten-
der Leaves and d/anch'd Stalk do well in our Sallet, as likewife

the Slices of the whiten’d Stems, which being crimp and fhort, -

firft peel’d and flit long-wife, are eaten with Oy/, Vinegar, Salt,
and_Pepper ; and for its high and grateful Tafte, is ever placd
in the middle of the Grand Sallet, at our Great Men’s Tables,
and Pretors Feafts, as the Grace of the whole Board. Caution
is tobe given of a fmall red Worm, often lurking in thefe Staiks,
as does the green in Fennil.

Shallots. See Onion. |

68. Skirrets, Sifarum Sativum, or Germanorum, B. P. French

Chervi ; is hot and moift, corroborating, and good for the Sto-
mach, exceedingly nourifhing, ‘wholiom and delicate; of all
the Reot-kind, not {ubject to be windy, and fo valued by the
Emperor 7iderias, that he accepted them for Tribute.
_ This excellent Root is feldom eaten raw; but being boil’d,
ftew'd, roafted under the Embers, bak'd in Pies, whole, flic’d,
or in Pulp, is very acceptable to all Palates. “Tis reported, they
were heretofore fomething bitter: See what Culture and Edu-
cation effects! aaat

: Smallage,

rae

- not efteem the Dutch great and larger fort

- ACETARIA
Smallage, See Sellery. “yg

69. Sorrel, Acetofa, or Oxalis, of which there are divers kinds :

The broad German, Aceto{a maxima Germanica; the Roman or

French Acetocella, with the Round Leaf; Oxalis Franca, or Romana,
with the repent Rounder Leaf, found by that Accomplifh’d Botani/?,

165

the late * Mr. Ray, growing in Cumberland, (as likewife in Wales =) *catabgue of

The barren Sorrel of Ruffa, defervedly efteem
all, the beft is that of Greenland. Sorrel is by Nature cold
abfterfive, acid, fharpning the Appetite, aflwages Heat, cools the

Liver, ftrengthens the Heart; is an Antifcorbutic, refifting Putre-

faction, and imparting fo grateful a quicknefs to the reft, as

fupplies the want of Orange, Limon, and other Ompbacia; and, _

therefore never to be excluded. Vide Wood-Sorrel.

70. Sow-thiftle, Sowchus; of the Intybus-kind. Galen was usd
to eat it as Lettuce ; exceedingly welcome to the late Morocco Am-
baffador, and his Retinue.

+1. Sparagus, A/paragus (ab Afperitate ;) temperately hot and
moift; Cordial, Dieuretic, eafy of Digeftion, and next to Flefh,
nothing more nourithiag, as Sim. Sethius, an excellent Phyfician,
holds. They are fometimes, but very feldom, eaten raw with
Oyf and Vinegar; but with more delicacy (the bitternefs firft ex-
haufted) being fo fpeedily boil’d, as not to lofe the Verdure and
agreeable tendernefs ; which is done, by letting the Water boil
before you put them in. We generally, in Axg/and, prejudice
both Sparagus, Coleworts, (and moft other Herbaceous Efculents )
by over-boiling them, whereby their Volatile Salts Cin which
much -of their Vertue confifts) are evaporated : The Romans
did with that. celerity boil their A/paragus, that Auguftus, when
he order'd any Bufinefs to be expedited, his Proverbial Saying
was, Let it be difpatch'd Cétius quam <Afparagi coquuntur. \ do

Cefpecially raisd by
the rankne(s of the Beds) fo fweet and agreeable, as thofe of a

moderate fize. And yet to fhew what Solum, Celum and Induftry .

will effe&, The Honourable and Learned Charles Hatton, Efq; Cto
whom all our Phytologi?s, and Lovers of Horticulture, are oblig’d ;
and_my_felf_in particular, for many Favours) made my Wife_a
Prefent of Sixteen Sparagus, the whole Buxch containing only
Sixty, which. weighed Fifteen Pounds and a quarter; to as allow-
ing Four Ounces to each Sparagus, One was as many as one
would defire to eat: And that which is yet as obfervable, is,
Their not being rais‘d and forcd by extraordinary Compoft, (as
they generally are) but in a more natural, fweet, rich, and well
cultivated Soil, about Batter/y.

72. Spinach, Spinachia, Lapathum Hortenfe ; of Old not usd

in Safets, and the oitner kept out the better: I fpeak of the

crude: But being boi!l’d to a Pult, and without other Water than
32s, its

It.

d by many : But after Englith Plans;

166

ACHETARIA siisis
its own- Moifture, is a moft excellent Condiment with ‘Butter,
vi i pag goes for elitiog all forts of boil’d Flefh ; and may
aceonipalhy a Sick-Man’s Diet. °Tis Laxative and» Emolient,
and therefore pfofitable for the Aged, and tho’ by original a
Spaniard) may be had at almoft any Seafon,. and in all Places.

; : Vermicularis Infipida, Cby. the French, Tripe
moka ene and moift, grateful to the Stomach —
Turiones ot Tops being young 9 pour ett drefsd like Purflain,
i sdient in our cold SaZers, BP a
tig. i. Ode Stone-Crop of as pernicious Qualities as
thofe of the former are laudable, Wall-Pepper, or gap 9 ey
Sedum minus Caufticum ; by the French, sys: reehamert : there-
fore the Sal/et-Compofer be not Botanift fufficiently skilful, rer
his own View, to diftinguifh the et Toes seer y ie
is hot and fiery, from that which is infipid, it was advifeable
for him, before he puts eithef* of them into the Sallet, to con-
fult his Palate, and tafte them firft.

» Cichorium Sylveftre, an Endive ; erratic or wild,
witha tae ‘dark Leaf, different from the Sative, ro,
by Culture only; and for being very bitter, a little ¢ ee
with Sugar and Rinegar, is, by-fome, eaten in the rs u
more grateful to the Stomach than the Palate. See Endive,

, ; but in regard of its
fy, Tamacetam ; hot and cleanfing ; but in regar

Joieecine Relith, fparingly mixd with our cold Sa/let, and
much fitter (tho” in very fall quantity) for the Pan, being qua-
lify'd with the Juices of other frefh Herbs, Spinach, Green Corn,
Violet, Primrofe-Leaves, &c.. at ag of i Spring, ie orig
‘db ith, is eateri hot, with the Juice of Orange and Sugar,
oie OF ky hevolt agreeable of all the boil’d Herbaceous Dithes.

Of this Herb fome prefer the Curl’d.

; of Spanifh
. Tarragon, Draco Herba, Dracunculus Hortenfs ; of Span
Mii ; “hoe and fpicy : The Tops and young ae “ro
thofe of Rochet, never to be fecluded our agus Cote laser ly
where there is much Lettuce. ’Tis highly cordial, and res “a
to the Head, Heart, Liver, correcting the weaknels of t

Ventricle, Sc.

i ie ; ’s milky dappl'd
7. Thiftle, Carduus Marie; our Lady’s milky or

Thifle, difarm’d of its Prickles, and boil’d, is worth bia
and thought to be great breeders of Mi/k, and seid i Fras
Women who are Nurfes : The young Stalk, about ay, (an
fold in our Herb-Markets) being peel'd and foak’d ia ae
extract the bitternefs, boil’d or raw, is a very whol oe a .
eaten with Oy/, Salt, and Pepper: Some eat them fodden i

proper Broath,° or “bak’d in Pies, ‘like the Artichoak-;~but—the—

tender Stalk ‘boil’d or fry’d, fome prefer ; both nourifhing and
reftorative.

78. Thyme, .

ACBTARIA

78. Thyme, Thymus ; of which before (fpeaking of Pot-Herbs,
Num. 35.) The true Thyme of the Ancients, is the Thymus Capi-
tatus Crepitus, or Candy Tuft ; a Plant of a moft agreeable Odor,

ty being trequently, by

and grateful Sapor; a confiderable quanti

the Hollanders, brought from Maltha, and other» Places in the
Streights, who fell it at Fiome, and in Flanders, for
amongtft their Sa//ets and Ragout ; and call it A//Saace.

“Tricque-Madame, See Stone-Crop.

79. Turnip, Rapum Vulgare ; F. Raves; moderately hot and moitft ;

Napus : The long little Naver is certainly the moft delicate of them,
and beft nourifhing, fo as the French put it into moft of their
Pottages. Pliny {peaks of no fewer than fix forts, and of feve+
ral Colours; fome of which were fulpected to be artificially
tinged. But with us, the yellow, which comes from Denmark,
is prefer'd ; by others, the red - Bohemian. But of whatever kind,
being fown upon the Hot-Bed, and no bigger than feedling Ra-
difh, they do excellently ia Compofition ; as do alfo the Stalks
of the common Tursip, when firtt beginning to bud ; and being
boil'd, eat like Sparagus.
Hire note, That this Navet is never to be fown in a rich Soil,
wherein they rather degenerate than improve, or at all meliorate,
_ but lofing their Shape, dry and agreeable Relith, become in-

deed moift and large: And therefore their proper Mould is
rather a lean, dry, fandy Earth.

And here fhould not be forgotten, that wholfom, ‘as well as
“agveeable fort of Bread, we are *

we have eaten at the greateft Perfons Tables, hardly to be di-
ftinguith’'d from the belt of Wheat. .

Let the Zurnips firft be pecl’d, and boil’d in Water till foft and
tender ; then ftrongly preiling out the Juice, mix them ‘together,
and when dry, (beaten or pounded very fine) with theif weight
of Wheat-Meal, feafon it as you do other Bread, and knead it
up ; then letting the Dough remain a little to ferment, fathion the
Pafle into Loaves, and bake it like common Bread.

Some roait Turnips in a Paper under the Embers, and-eat them
with Sugar and Butier.

oo. Vine, Vitis, the Cuapreols, Teadrels, and Clafpers : whilit
very young, have an agreeable Acid, which may be eaten alone,
or with other Sa//et,

Sx..Viper-grals, Viperaria, Scorzonera, Salfifix, &c. tlio’ Me-
dicinal, and excellent againtt the Palpitation of the Heart, Faint-
tig, Obftrution of the Bowels, &c. are befides a very {weet and
pleafant Sallet ; being-laid to-foak out the-bitternefs, then peel'c,
may bé eatca raw, or condited; but belt of all flew’d with Mar.

Y Vy y-2 Tow,

Strewings

167

taught to make; and of which * Philof: Tran},
= 4 ol. xviis

Num. 205+

Page g7or

4 ‘\

\

yee TARA

row, Spice, Wine, &c. as Artichoak, Skirrets, &c. fliced or whole?

_ They likewife may bake, fry, or boil them; a more excellent

Root there is hardly growing.

85, Wood-Sorrel, Trifolium Acetofum, or Alleluja ; of che ‘da:
ture of other Sorrels.

To all which might we add fundry more, formerly had it
deliciis, fince grown_,obfolete, or quite neglected with us: As
among the nobleft Bulbs, that of the Tulip; a Root of which
‘has been valued not to eat, but for the Flower (and yet eaten
by miftake) at more than an hundred Pounds. The young frefh
Bulbs ave {weet, and high of Tafte. ;

- The Afphodil or Daffodil ; a Sallet fo rare in Hefiod’s Days,
that Lobel thinks it the Parfnip, tho’ not at all like it ; however
it was (with the Mallow) taken anciently for any Edule-Root.

The Ornithogalons roafted, as they do Che/tnuts, are eaten by

the Italians, the wild yellow efpecially, with Oy/, Vinegar, and
Pepper. And-fo the {mall tuberous Roots of Gramen- Amygdalo-
fum, which they alfo roait, and make an Emulfion of, to ufe in
Broaths as a great Reftorative. The Oxylapathum us'd of Old;
in the time of Ga/en was eaten frequently: As alfo Dracontium,
with the mordicant Arum Theophrafli, which Dodoneus teaches
how ta drefss Nay, divers of the Satyrions, which fome con-
dited with Sugar, others boil’d in Milk, for a great Nonrither,
“now difearded. But what think we of the Cicuta, which there
are who reckon among Sadlet-Herbs ? But whatever it is in any
other Country, ‘tis certainly mortiferous in ours, To thefe add
the Viola Matronalis, Radix Lunaria, &c. nay, the Greex Popy,
by moft accounted among the deadly Poifons : How cautious
then ought our Sallet-Gatherers to be, in reading ancient Au-
thors ; left they happen to be imposd on, where they treat
of Plants that are familiarly eaten in other Countries, and among
other Nations and People of more ‘robuft end firong Confli-
tutions? befides the hazard of being miftaken in the Names
of divers Simples, not as yet fully agreed upon among the

Learned in Botany. 7.

There are befides feveral remaining, which, tho’ abdicated
here—with—us,—find—Entertainment—ftill_in—_Foreign Countries:
As the large Aeliotrope and Sun-flower, Cees. cames to expand,
and fhew 1s golden Face’) which being drefs'd as the Artichoak,
is eaten-for a Dainty. This Iadd as a new Difcovery. I once
made Macaroons with the ripe blanch’d Seeds, but the 7urpentine
did fo domineer over all, that it did not anfwer Expectation.
The Radix Perfonata mounting with their young Heads, Lifime-
chia (iliquofa glabra minor, when frefh and tender, begins to come
into the Sallet-Tribe. ‘The pale whiter Popy, is eaten by the
Genouefe. By the Spaniards, the Tops of Wormwood with Oy?
alone,-and withovt-fo-much as Bread; profitable indecd to the
Stomach, but offenfive to the Head: As is alfo Coriander and

Rue,

- ACBTARIA

Rue, which Galen was accuftom’d to eat raw, and by it felf,

wita Oy/ and Salt, as excetdingly grateful, as well as wholfom,

and of great vertue againft Infection. _ P/iny, I remember, re- ©

ports it to be of fuch effect for the Prefervation of Sight, that

the Painters of his Time us’d to devour a great quantity of ir.

And it is ftill, by the Ztalians, frequently mingled among their

Sallets. The Lapatha Perfonata (common Burdock) comes now

and then to the beft Tables, about April, and when young, be-

fore the Burrs and Clots appear, being ftrip’d, and the’ bitter-

nefs foak’d out, treated as the Chardoon, is eaten in Poiverade ;

fome alfo boil them. More aughie“Hiers ‘be reckon’d up, but

thefe may fuffice ; fince, as we'find, fome are left off, and gone

out, fo others be introduc’d and come in their rocm, and that

iff much greater Plenty and Variety, than was ever known by

ur Anceftors, The Cucumber it felf, now fo univerfally eaten

being accounted little better than Poi/on, even within our Memory, \

as already noted.
-» To conclude: And after all that has been faid of Plants and’
Salleting, formerly in great Efteem, (but fince obfolete and quite
rejected) Whag if the exalted Juice of the ancient Silphium
fhould come in, and challenge the Precedency It is a * Plant * pix. Nar.
formerly fo highly priz’d, and rare for the richnefS,of its Tafte, lid. xix.cap;.
and other Vertues ; that as it was dedicated to Apollo, and hung pe Tree.
up in his Temple at Delphi; fo we read of one fingle Root zes Chil. vi.
brought to the Emperor Nero for an, extraordinary Prefent ; and-*®. **¥4-

1 ? 2 9
the Drug foefteem’d, that the Romans had-long before amafsd
a quantity of it, and kept it-in the Treafury, till Fulivs Cefar
rob'd it, and took this away, asa thing of mighty Value: In
a word, It was of that account, that as a Sacred Plant, thofe of
the Cyrenaic Africa, honour’d the very Figure of’ it, by ftamping
it on the Reverie of their || Coin; and when they would commend | Spanheim,
a thing for its worth to the Skies, Bitls oiAguy grew into a De wf &

s f ; reftac. Nu-

Proverb: Battus having been the Founder of the City Cyrene, mit. Diilere.
near which it only grew. ‘Tis indeed contefted among the sto. % ws
Learned Botaxofophifs, whether this Plant was not the fame with “im ¢°,
Laferpitium, and the Lafer it yields, tlte odoriferous + Benzoin 2 Jupiter Ham-
But, doubtlefs, had we the true and genuine Si/phinm (for it ap- POs. p
pears to have been often fophiflicated ; arid a fpurious fort dy d Airs 3¢
brought into /taly) it would foon recover its priftine Reputation, “
and chat it was not celebrated fo for nothing extraordinary ao oo
fince, betides its Medicinal Vertue, it was a wonderful Corrobo- Ba71sciazicv.
tater of the Stomach, a Reftorer of loft Appetite, and Mafcu- neg ee
line Vigour, Ge. and that they made. ufe of it almoft in every Ste
thing they eat.
se fhould we now really tell the World, — * Of which fome would have it cow fer

at this precious Juice is, by many, thought iar wamrit is his Equites,» 239 0nd
to be no other than the * Fetid Affa; our 240.Edit.Batil- See likewile this dilenft a,

. _E : together with its Properties, moft copion/7),
nicer Sallet-Eaters (who yet beftow as odious ey eee Stapul, Comment is

| __—\—an Epithet on the vulgar Garlick) would cry __ Theophratt. lib. vi. capt-and Baus

out upon it as intolerable, and perhaps hardly hin. #2, Plant. lib, xxvii. cap. 53»
8 believe
+

a

> AO BT ARIA...

believe it : But as Ariftophanes has brought it in, and fufficiently
defcribd it; fo the Scholia# upon the Place, puts it out of Con-
troverfy: And that they made ufeboth of the Leaves, Stalk,
(and Extract efpecially)) as we now do Garlick, and other HYaut-
gouts, as naufeous altogether. Inthe mean time, Garcias, Bontius,
and others, aflure us, that the Jndians at this Day, univerfally
fauce their Viands with it ; and the Bramin’s (who eat no Flefh
at all) inrich their Sallets, by conftantly rubbing the Dities with
it. Nor are fome of our own skilful Cooks. ignorant how to con-
dite and ufe it, with the Applaufe of thofe, who, ignorant of
the Secret, have admir'd the richnefs of the Guft it has imparted,
when it has been fubftituted-inftead of all our Cisolati, and other
Seafonings of that nature. ~ fi

_And thus have we done with the various Species of all fuch
Efculents as may properly enter the Compofition of our Acetaria,
and cold Sal/et, And if I have briefly toucti’d upon’ their Na-
tures, Degrees, and. primary Qualities, which intend or remit, as
to the Scale of Heat, Coldnefi, Drine/s, Moifture, &c, (which is to
be urderftood according to the different Texture’-of their com-

ponent Particles.) .it has not been without what I thought’ ne-. :

ceflary for Seg of the Gatherer, and Sallet-Dreffer;
how he ought to-choofe, fort, and -mingle his Materials and In-
gredients together,

What Care and Circum{pection fhould attend the Choice and
. Cellection of Sallet-Hrerbs, has been-partly thew'd. I can there--
fore, by no means, approve of that extravagant Fancy of fome,
who tell us, that a Fool is as fit to be the Garherer of a Sallet as
a wifer Man: Becaufe, fay-they, one can hardly choofe a ifs,
provided the Plants be green, young, and tender, wherever they
meet with them : But fad Experience fhews, how many fatal
Miflakes have been committed by thofe who took the dea y Ci-
cute@, Hlemlocks, Aconits, &c. for Garden Perfley and Parfuips ;
the Myrrhis Sylveftris, or Cow-weed, for Cherophilum, (Chervil)
Thapfa for Fennel; the wild Chordrilla for Succory ; Dogs-Mer-
cury inflead of Spinach : Papaver Corniculatum Luteum, and horn'd
Poppy for Eringo; Ocenanthe aquatica for the Palufiral Apium, and
a world more, whofe dire Effects have been many times fudden
Death, and the caufe of: mortal Accidents to thofe who have
caten of them unwittingly : But fuppofing fome of tholé wild
and unknown Plants fhould not prove fo de/etcricus and * un-
wholfom, yet may others of them annoy the Head, Brain, and
Genus Nervofum, weaken the Eyes, offend the Stomach, aflect the
iver, tcrment the Bowels, and difcover their Melignity in dan-
gerous and dreadful Symptoms. And therefore fuch Plants as are
rather Medicinal than Nourifhing and Refrefbing, are ftudioufly
to be rejected. So highly neceflary it is, that what we fome-
times find in ofd Books concerning Edules of other Countries
and Climates (frequently call’d by the Names of fuch as are
wholfom in ours, and among us) miflead not the unskilful Ga-
thercr ; to prevent which, we read of divers Popes and Emperors,

that

ACETARIA. . 17a
that. had fometimes Learned Phificians for their Mafter-Cooks ;
and that of Old an excellent Cook was reckon’d amongtt the
Eruditi : 1 cannot here therefore but mention what we find in
the Works of St. Paulinus, a Lettet fent to Sulpitius Severus
againft Luxury, and in Praife of Fruga/ity; with -another of Se-
verus’s, who fent him a Cook, with great Recommendations, for
the-particular Talent he had in drefling Beans, Lettuce, and other
Sallets : His Name was Vittor, and fo welcome to the Holy Man,
for his being lik@ife an excellent Barber. Upon this account
I exceedingly ove of that charitable Advice of Mr. Ray,
* (Tranfatt, Numb. 238.) who thinks it the Intereft of Mankind, * voi. xx
that all Perfons fhould be caution’d of ad-- +Cowky?
vent'ring upon unknown Herbs and Plants 015° bv ey wardxy 7X dopodins
to their Prejudice : Of fuch, I fay, with our , “@¥ 24

: KodLavres yO Yqeos Stok Bicy aypa-
excellent + Poet (a little chang’d) eine * Hefiod, ve

Happy from fuch conceal'd, if ftill do lie,
Of Roots and Herbs the wunwholfom Luxary.

Thesillaftrious.and Learned Coliumna—has, by obferving what ; .
+ Infeltsicdid_ufually feed on, made Conjeétures of the Nature Ping ps ala
of the Plants. But I fhould not fo readily adventure upon it om se: Mr. Ray's
that account, as to its wholfomnefs: For tho’ indeed one may or re.
fafely eat of a Peach or+Abricot, after a Snail has been Tafter, ©*"“? **
I queftion whether it might be fo of all other Fruits and Herbs
attack'd by other Zn/eéts : Nor would one conclude, the A/yo/cy-
amas harmlefs, becaufe the Cimex feeds upon it, as the Learned
Dr. Lyfer has difcover’d, Notice fhould therefore be taken
what £ggs of Jnfecis are found adhering to the Leaves of Salket-

Herbs, and frequently cleave fo firmly to them, as not eafily to

“ be wath’d off, and {6 not being taken notice of, pafling ‘for ac-

cidental and harmlefs Spots only, may yet produc¢ very ill
Effes.

Grillus, who, according to the Doétrine of 7ranfmigration (as
Plutarch tells us) had, in his turn, beena Beaff, difcourfes how
much better he fed and liv'’d, than when he was turn’d to Man
again, as knowing then what Plants were beft and moft proper
for him; whilft Men, Sarcopbagi/ts, (Fleth-Eaters) in all this
time were yet to feck. And tis indeed very evident, that Cat-
tel, and other zavgaza, and herbaceous Animals which feed on. CY
Plants , are directed. by their Smell, and accordingly make yoo! pire

_Election of their Food? But Men (befides the Smell and Taffe) Jen # Man wh»

poifon'd

have, or thould have, Reafon, Experience, and the Aids of Natural "41/0 tls
Philofophy, to be their Guides in this-Matter. We have heard of she Skin peel'd
Plants, that (like the Baflisk) kill and infect by * looking on °% 2 f*

and yet he neo

them only ; and fome by the Touch. The Truth is, there’s ve Zouch’ >,
need of -all the Senfes to determine Avalogically concerning the oy looked on

. - 7 | he pal da
Vertues and Properties, even of the Leaves alone of many Edule- 5,“ Se

_ Plants : The moft eminent Principles of near the whole Tribe ford, Pile.
of Sallet Vegetables, inclining rather to acid and fowre than to any ag i =

other pP.794 7

172 ACETARIA
other quality, efpecially fale, fweet, or- lufcious. There is there=
fore Skill and Judgment requir’d, how to fuit and mingle our
Sallet-Ingredients, fo-as may beft™ agree with the Conftivation
of the Calan reputed) Alumours of thofe who either ftand
in need of, or affect thefe Refrefhments, and by fo adjufting
them, that as nothing fhould be fuffer’d to domineer, fo fhould
this end,
The cooler, and moderately refrefhing, fhould be chofen to
extinguith Thirft, attemper the Blood, reprefs Vapours, &c.
The hot, dry, aromatic, cordial and friendly to the Brain,
may be qualify’d by the cold and moift : The bitter and Stoma-
chical, with the Sub-acid and gentler Herbs : The Mordicant and
pungent, and fuch as reprefs or difcufs Flatulency (revive the
Spirits, and_aid. Concoction ;) with fuch as abate and take off
the keennefs, mollify and reconcile the more harfh and churlifh:
The mild and infipid, animated with the piquant and brisk :
The Aftringent and Binders, with fuch as are Laxative and De-
obftru@ : The over-fluggifh, raw, and unactive, with thofe that
are Eupeptic, and protnote Concodction: There are Peéforals for
the Breaft and Bowels.. Thofe of middle Nature, actording as
they appear to be more or lefs Specifick ; and as their Cha-
racters (tho’ briefly) are defcrib’d in our foregoing Catalogue :
For notwithftanding it feem in general, that raw Sadets and
Herbs have experimentally been found’ to be the moft fovereign
Diet in that Audemial (and indeed with us Epidemical, and al-
moft univerfal) Contagion, the Scorbute} to which we of this
Nation, and moft other J/laxders, are obnoxious; yet, fince the
Nafturtia are fingly, and alone as it were, the moft effectual
and powerful Agents in conquering and expugning-that cruel
Enemy, it were enough to give the Sa/let-Dreffer diretion how
to choofe, mingle, and proportion his Ingredients; as well as
to fhew what Remedies there are contained in our Magazine
‘Cowley, of Sallet-Plants upon all Occafions, rightly marfhal'd, and skil-

arden Mif=
col Sean s. fully apply’d. So as (with our * fweet Cowley )

If thro’ the ftrong and beauteous Fence
Of Temperance and Innocence,
And whollom Labours, anda quiet Mind,
Difeafes Paffage find ;
They muft not think here to affail
A Land unarm’d, or without Guard,
They muft fight for it, and-difpute it hard,
Before they can prevail ;
Scarce any Plant is ufed here,
Which ‘gainft fome Ail a Weapon does not bear.

This brings to my Memory, what! have heard of one Signioue
Jaguinto, Phyficiawto Queen Anne (Mother to the Blefled: Martyr,
Charles the ¥irft) and was fo to one of the Popes: That ob-
ferving the Scurvy and Drop/y to be the Epidemical and Domi-

s

fone of them lofe their genuine Guft, Savour, or Vertue. To <°.

ACETA RIA
nant Difeafes of this Nation : He went himfelf into the Hundreds
of Effex, (reputed the moft unhealthy County of this Zand)
and us‘d to follow the Sheep and Cattel on purpofe.to obferve
what Plants they chiefly fed upon; and of thofe Simples com-
pos'd an excellent E/ectuary, of extraordinary Effects againft thofe
Infirmities.

Thus we are told, that the Vertue of the Cophee was difcover’d
by marking what the Goats fo greedily brutted
upon. So A/culapius is {aid to have reftor’d —— ceeereae Sena detcecatis
difmember’d AYippelitus, by applying fome ypnisann isa :
Simples he obferv'd a * Serpent ohne ud’ to "ie — ‘Oud ef ib vik
another dead Serpent.

- We have faid how neceffary it is, that in the Compofure of
a Sallet, every Plant fhould come in to bear its part, without
being over-power'd by fome Herb of a flronger Tafte, fo as to
endanger ‘the native Sapor and Vertue of the reft; but fall
into their Places, like the Notes in Mufic, in which there thould

be nothing harfh or grating: Altho’ admitting fome Difcord.
(to diftinguith and illuftrate the reft) ftriking % sis

in the more fprightly, and fometimes gentler
Notes, reconcile all Diflonancies, and mele
them into an agreeable Compofition. Thus
the comical Maffer-Cook, introduc’d by *Da-
moxenus, when ask’d zis gov au7eis cuppovi2 3
What Harmony there was in Meats > The ve-

“ry fame (ays he). that a Diateffaron, Diapente,

and Diapafon, have one to another in a Con-
fort of Mufic: And that there was as great
Care requir'd, not to mingle + Sapores mini-

_ me confentientes, jarring and repugnant Taftes ;

looking upon him as a lamentable Ignorant,

- who fhould bé no better vers’d in Democritus.

The whole Scene is very diverting, as Athe-
n@us prefents it; and to the fameSenfe Ma-
crobius, Saturn, lib, 1. cap.1. In fhort, the
main Skill of the Artift lies in this :

: What Choice to choofe, for delicacy beft ;
mn What Order fo contriv'd, as not to mix

Taftes not well join’d, inelegant, but bring

aa
t Sapores minime Confentientes 5
cunmrsnouldas ind cyupeves agds :

Hac defpicere ingeniofi eft artificis :

~ Neither did the Artift mingle hit. Provifi-

ons without extraordinary Study and Con-
fderatin: "And wikas mdvre xard
cvugeviey, Horum fingulis feorfum
ailumptis;-tu expedito: Sic €yo tan-
quam Oraculo jubeo. —Itaque lite-
rarum ignarum Coquum, tu cum vi-

deris, & qui Democriti {cripta om- .

nia non perlegerit, vel potius, im-
Promptu non habeat, eum deride ut
futilem: Ac illum Mercede cordu-
cito, qui Epicuri Canonem ufu plane
didiceric, Gye. as it follows in tke Gas
ftronomia’ of Archeftratus , Athen,
lib. xxiii. Such another Bragadoccio
Cook Horace deferibes,

Nec fibi Coenarum quivis temerd ar-
roget artem

Non prius exaGi tenui ratione fi-
porum. Sat. lib. ii. Sat. 4.

Tafte after Tafte, upheld by kindlieft change.

As our * Paradifian Bard—introduces Eve, drefling of a Salet for * Milton's

her Angelical Guetft.

Paradife Loft.

Thus, by the difcreet Choice and Mixture of the Oxoleon, ——— ! Qi

.? Tingat olus

Ol; Vinegar, Salt, &c.) the Compofition is perfect ; fo as nei- ficcum muria
ther the Prodigal, Niggard, nor Infipid, fhould (according to the vafer in cali-

Italian Rule) prefcribe, in my Opinion ; fince Oze may be too

ce emprti,
Ipfe facrum

profufe, the Other ||-over-faving, and the Zhird (like himfelf) itrorans piper
give it no Relith at all: It may be too fbarp, if it exceed a — Pett

, oe car

grateful *

/

ci he et aed aan ———

ACBTARTA
grateful Acid; tuo Infalfe and flat, if the Profufion be extream,
From ail which it appears,’ that a Wife-Man is the proper Com.
pofer of an excellent Safer, 4nd how many Tranfcendences *be-
long to an accomplith’d Saet-Dreffer, fo as to emerge an exact
Critic indeed, He fhould be skill’d in the Degrees,- Terms, and
various Species of Taftes, according to the Scheme fet us down

* Dr. Grew, it the Tables of the Learned * Dr. Grew, to which I refer the
~~ Leét, Vie c. 2; Curious. ; ;

3:

* Muffet de

‘Tis moreover to be confider’d, that Edu/e Plants are not in all
their Taftes and Vertues alike : For as Providence has made us
to confift of different Parts and Meinbers, both internal and ex-
ternal; fo ha | they different Juices to nourith and fupply
them : Wheréfore the force and activity of fome Plants lie in
the Root; and even the Leaves of fome Sitter Roots are {weer,
and é contra. Of others, in the Stem, Leaves, Buds, Flowers, &c.
Some exert their Vigour without Decocfion ; others being a little
prefs'd or contus’d; others again raw, and beft in Confort ;
fome alone, and per fe, without any cxwaca, .Pfeparation, or
Mixture at all. Care therefore muft be taken by the Codefory
that what he gathers anfwer to thefe Qualities; and that as hear
as he can, they confift (I fpeak of the cruder Saleting) of the
Olufcula, and ex foliis pubefcentibus, or (as Martial calls them)
Prototomi rudes, and very tendereft Parts Gems, young Buds,
and even firft Rudiments of their feveral Plants ; fuch as we fome-
times find in the Craws of the Wood-Culver, Stock-Dove, Par-
tridge, Pheafants, and other Up-land Fowl, where we have a na-
tural Sallet, pick’d, and almoft drefs'd-to our Hands.

I, Preparatory to the Dreffing therefore, let your Herby Ingre-
cients be exquifitely cull’d, and cleans‘d of all worm-eaten, flimy,
cankerd, dry, {potted, or any ways vitiated Leaves,” And then

that they be rather difcreetly fprinkl’d, than over-much fob'd ~

with Spring-Water, efpecially Lettuce, which Dr. * Muffet thinks

seta, © 23+ inipairs their Vertue ; but this, I fuppofe, he means of the Cab-

bage-kind, whofe Heads are ‘fufficiently protected by the outer
Leaves which cover it. After wafhing, let them remain a while
in the Cullender, to drain the fuperfluous Moifture : And laftly,
fwing them altogether gently in a clean courfe Napkin ; and

J . ACETARIA

have an Averfion to Oyh fubftitute Fre/b-Butter in its ftead ;
but “tis fo exceedingly clogging to the Stomach; as by no.means
to be allow'd. , :

Il. Thirdly, That the Vinegar, and other liquid Acids, perfect-
ly clear, neither fowre, vapid, or fpents be of the beft Wine
Vinegar, whether Diftill’d, or otherwife Aromatie’d, and impreg-
nated with the Infufion of Clove-July-flowers, Elder, Rofes, Rofe-
mary, Naflurtium, &c. inrich'd with the Vertues of the Plant. —

A Verjuice not unfit for Sallet, is made by a Grape of that
Name, or the green immature Clufters of moft other Grapes,
prefs’d, and put into a {mall Veflel co ferment.

+

_1V. Fourthly, That the Salt, ( aliorum Condimentorum Condi-
mentum, as Plutarch calls it) deterfive, penetrating, quickning,

_ (and fo great a Refifter of Putrefaction, and univerfal Ufe, as
_t0 have fometimes merited Divine Epithets) be of the brighteft
’ Bay-grey-Salt ; moderately dry'd and contus’d, as being the leaft

corrofive : But of this, as of Sugar alfo, which fom mingle
with the Sa/t (as warming without heating) if perfeétly refin’d, -
there would be no great difficulty, provided none, fave Ladies,
were of the Mefs; whilft thePerfection of Sallets, and that
which gives them the Name, confifts in the grateful Saline Acid-..,
point, temper’d as is directed, and which we find to be moft
efteem’d by judicious Palates: Some, in the mean time, have
been fo nice, and luxurioufly curious, as for the heightning, and
(as they affect to fpeak) giving the ce er poinant and Relevée
in lieu of our vulgar Sa/t, to recommend and cry up the Effential-
Salts and Spirits of the-moft Sanative Vegetables; or fuch of
the Alcalizate and Fix’d, extra@ted from the Calcination of Baulm,
Rofemary, Wormwood, Scurvyegrafs, &c. affirming, That without
the grofs Plant, we might have healing, cooling, generous, and
refrething Cordials, and all the Materia Medica out of the Salt-
fellar only : But to fay no more of this Impertinence, as to Salts
of Vegetables ; many indeed there be, who reckon them hot much
unlike in Operation, however different in 7afle, Cryffals, and
Figure = \t being a queftion, whether they at all retain the Ver-
tues and Faculties of thei Simples, unlefs they coud be made

{o they—will be_in_perfedt Condition to receive the Jutincius_fol-

rp: -without-Calcination,Francifcus-Redi-gives us his Opinion of this,
owing. .

in a Procefs how they are to be prepard; and fo docs our Learned

* Doctor (whom we lately nam’d) whether Lixivial, Effential, * Dr. Grews
Marine, or other factitious Safrs of Plants, with their Qualities, f° uae
and how they differ: But fince ’tis thought all Fix'd Salts made jv. Cap.1.64,
the common way, are little better than our common Salt, let it fuf- See silo Tranfs

um. 1078

I]. That the Oy/, an Ingredient fo indifpenfibly and highly ne-
ceflary, as to have obtain’d the Name of Cibarivm (and with us
of Sallet-Oyl) be very clean, not high-colour’d, nor yellow; but.
with an Eye rather of a pallid O/ive-green, without Smell, or fice, that our Sal/et-Salt be of the beft ordinary Bay-Salt, clean, ji. ix.
the leaft touch of rancid, or indeed ot -any-other fenfible Tafte bright, dry, and without clammiacts.
or Scent at all; but fmooth, light,~and pleafant upon the Of Sugar (by fome call’d /ndian-Salt) as it is rarely us’d in
Tongue; fuch as the genuine Ompbacine, and native Luca Olives Sallet, it fhould be of the beft refin'd, white, hard,. clofe, yet
afford, fit to allay the Tartnefs of Vinegar, and other Acids, light and fweet as the Madera’s : Nourifhing ; preferving ,
yet gently to warm and humectate where it pois: Some hi - eleanfing , delighting the Tafte, and preferable to fe oe

; ave ZzZZz 2x

}

ACETARIA
tnoft Ufes. Note, That both shis, Salt, and Vinegar, are to

be proportion’d to the Conftitution, as well as what is faid of the
Plants themfelves. The one for cold, the other for hot Stomachs.

V. That the Muftard (another noble Ingredient) be of the beft
Tewksberry ; or elfe compos'd of the foundett-and_ weighteft York-
fire Seed, exquifitely fifted, winnow'd, and freed from the Husks,
adittle (not over-much) dry’d by the Fire, temper'd to thé ‘con-
fiftence of a Pap with Vinegar, in which Shavings of the Hor/e-
' Radifh have been fteep'd: Then cutting an Onion, and putting it
into a {mall Earthen Gady-Pot, or fome thick Gla/s of that Shape ;
pour the Muftard over it, and clofe it very well with a Cork.
There be, who preferve the Flower and Dutt of the bruifed
~ Seed in a well-ftop'd Glafs, to temper, and have it frefh when
_ they pleafe. But what is yet, by fome, efteem’d beyond all thefe,
is compos’d of the dry’d Seeds of the Jndian Nafturtium, reduc’d
to Powder, finely bolted, and mix’d with a little Levain, and fo
from time to time made freth, as indeed all other Muftard
fhould be. ‘ % : :

Note, That the Seeds are pounded in a Mortar ; or bruis’
with a polith’d ‘Canny r ;
which is moft prefer’d, ground in a Quern contriv'd for ¢!
purpofe only. }

! : sat

VI. Sixthly, That the Pepper (white or black) be not bruis’d
to too {mall a Duft; which, as we caution d, is very.prejudicial.
And here Iet me mention the Root of the Minor Pimpinella, or
{mall Burnet Saxifrage ; which being dry’d, is, by fome, extoll’d
beyond all other Peppers, and more wholfom,

Of other Strewings and Aromatizers, which may likewife be
admitted to inrich our SaZet, we have already fpoken, where
we mention Orange and Limon-Peel ; to which may alfo be
added Jamaica-Pepper, Juniper-berries, &c. as of fingular Ver-
tue.

Nor here fhould I omit (the mentioning at leaft of) Saffron,
which the German Houfe-wives have a way of forming into
Balls, by mingling it with a little Floney ; which, throughly dry’d,
they reduce to Powder, and fprinkle it over their SaZets for a
nob dial, Thofe of Spain and Italy, we know, generally
make ufe of this Flower, mingling its golden Tinéture with al-
moft every thing they eat; but its being fo apt to prevail above
every thing with which ’tis blended, we little encourage its ad-
mittance into our Safer, ,

VIL. Seventhly, That there be the Yolks of freth and new- laid
Eggs, boil’d moderately hard, to be mingl’d and mafh’d with

the Muftard, Oyl, and Vinegar ; and part to cut into quarters,
and eat with the Herbs,

Vint.

bullet, in a large wooden Bowl-dith; o >

| ,
ACETARIA

VIII. Eighthly, (according to the faper-curious) that the Ruife,
with which the Sallet- Herbs are cut Celpecially Oranges, Limons, &c.)
be of Silver, and- by no means of Steel, which all Acids are apt to
corrode, and retain a Metalic Relith of.

EX. Ninthly and Lafly, That the Saladiere, (Sallet-Dithes) be of
Porcelane, or of the Lolland-Delft-Ware-s neither too deep nor
ifhallow, according to the quantity of the Sadlet-Ingredients s

Pewter, or even Silver, not at all fo well agreeing with Oy/‘and

Vinegar, which leave their feveral Tin@ures. And note, That
there ought to be one of the ifhes, in which to beat and
mingle the liquid Vebicles ; and a”fecond to receive the crude
Herbs in, upon which they are to be pour’d; and then with a
Fork and a Spoon kepr continually ftir'd, till all the Furniture
be equally moiften’d : Some, who are Husbands of their Oyé,
pour at firft the Oy/alone, as moré apt to communicate and diffafe
its Slipperinefs, than when it is mingled\and beaten with the

«Acids, which’ they pour on laft of all; and.’tis incredible how

”

Wyer) is fufficient to’imbue a very plentiful’ Affembly of Sallet-

Herbs,

The Sallet-Gatherer likewife fhould be provided with a. light,

and neatly made Withy-Dutch-Basket, divided into feveral Par-

titions.

Thus inftruéted and knowing in the Apparatus; the Species,
Proportions , and manner of Drefing , according to the feveral
Seafons, you have in the following Table.

It being one of the Inquiries of the Noble *Mr. Boyle, what

fmiall a quantity of Qy/ (in this quality, like the gilding of _

_ Herbs were proper and fit to make Sallets with, and how beft
to order them? We have here (by the affiftance of Mr. London, p- 799-
His _Majefty’s Ptincipal Gard’ner) reduc’d them £0.,.a..competent

Number, not exceeding Thirty Five ; but which may be vary’d
and enlarg’d, by taking in, or leaving out, any other Sal/et-
Plant, mention’d in the foregoing Lift, under thefe three or
four Heads.

Speczess
(

* Phildf. Tran.
Numb, xl,

ry

ACETARIA

Species.

, Endive,
2. Cichory,
3. Selery, .

Ordering and Culeure.

_Tyaup to Blanch. ay

Month,

” Fanuary,

Ord. & Cult.

cr

Blanch’d as
before

Green and
Unblanch’d

ACETARIA

Specits,
Rampios,
Endive,

Succor
Fowl’ Sweet,
Sellery,

CLambeLettuce,

Lop Lettuce.
Radifh, :
Creffes,

Turnips,

Maftard Seedlings,
Scurvy-grasy
Spinach,

Sorrel, Greenland,
Sorrel, French,
Chervil, Sweet,

Proportion:
10

; Roots in Number.
10

4+ ;
A Pugil of each.

Three Parts of each.

bor each One Part,
Two Parts.

One Part of each.

Eartt ‘dup. \ Burnet,

s I, ; Rocket,
| ‘ Rewpin r Tarragon, , Twenty large Leaves,
6, Roman , Ty’d-np to Blanch. rite

ba ;

: : Mint, Sone {mall Part of each.
7 Coffe Ty'd clofe up. 7 ereeoorenee 218 Ok eee Dement pie >

8. Sile Sampier
Lg. i. Pome and Blanch of chemfelves, Shalots,.

2
<s
Vv
3
“S
>
s
2
ro)

Fr0.
Ir.
12.

a 13.
bits 14.
15.

| 16,

17°
. 18.
19.
20,
21.
422.
< 23.
24.
25.
26.
aoe
28.
29.
30.
31.

Lop- Lettuce,
Corn-Sallet,

Pur flane,
Greffes, Broad,
Spinach, Curl'd,
‘Sorrel, French,

Sorrel, Greenland,

Radifp,
Creffes,
Turnip,
Muftard,

Se urfuy- agrafs, ?
Chervil,
Burnet,
Rocket, Spanith,
Perfley,
Tarragon,»
Mints,
Sampier,
Baln,

Sage; Red,
Shalots,.

eaves, all of a midling fize.

Seed-Leaves, and the-next co them.

The fine young Leaves only with the firft Shoots.

Only the tender young Leaves.
The Seed-Leaves, and thofe only next them.

ie

dine Seed-Leaves only.

The young Leaves immediately after the Seedlings.

\
oe

Pe tender Shorts an Tops.

tine young tendes Lids ‘nd Shoots,

cr A
Blanch’d 3

Green Herbs
Unblanch’d.

Note, Thar the
| young Seedling
Leaves of—~O-d
range and Li- |
mon gray all
thefe Months be
mingled with
the Saltet.

' Cives,
& UCabbage-Winter,

Roman Winter

Very few. Q
Two Pugils or {mall Handfuls.

slemwinwe bE Cox each a Pugil.

- * CRadifhes,

Creffes;
Purfelan,
Soree!, French,
Sampier,

| Onions, Young,

Sage-tops, the Red,
Perfly,

Creffes, the Indian,

Lettuce, Belgrade,

: Lripe- Madame,
| Chervil, Sweet,
L Barner,

Three Parts. —

Two Parts. '

One Fafciat, or pretty full Gripe.
Two Parts.

One Part.

Six Parts.

‘ Two Parts,

Of each One Parts

‘Two Parts,

One whole Lettuce.

t

may be eaten )Roman Lettuce,
by themfelves )Crefs aA
with [ome Na-( Cabbage,
fturtium-Flow- ©Creffes,

ers. Nafturtium,

32. Gives and Onion, hme tender young Leaves.
is 3» Nafturtium, Indian, The Flowers and Bud- Flowers.

4- Rempion, Belgrade, > Urhe Seed. Leaves aad young Tops. ©

U35. Zripe- Madame,

*Blanch’d, a Lanse,

31 wo Parts.
Four Parts.

dowo Parts.

September.

Ofobers

November,

and

December.

Green Herbs
by themfeloes
or mingl'd
with the
Blanch’d:

t

Blanch'd
<

Green
7a

Pur/flane,
Lop-Lettuce,

Lettuce,
Tarragon,
Sorrel, Frenchy
Burnet,
UTripe-Madame ,

4 Lop-Letzuce,
Lambs- Lettuce,
Radijb,
uCreffes,

Creffes
Spinach, -

Turnips,
3 Seedlings,

}One Past.
é Belgrade, or Crumpen:~

btwo Parts.
One Part,
two Parts of each,

‘ One Part.

and part of the Root and tens
dereft Leaves.

n Handful of each.

Three Parts.
Two Parts.

One Part of each.

ae if large, four if fmall, Stalk

Two Parts of each.

B08 A CETARIA

But all thefe forts are not to be had at the very fame time,

and therefore we have divided them into the Quarterly Seafons,

h containing and lafting Three Months.
ee That by Parts: is to be underftood-a Pugil; which ‘is
no more than one does ufually take up between the Thumb
and the two next Fingers. By Fajcicule, a-reafonable full Gripe,
or Handful.

Farther Direétions concerning the proper Saalbas
for the ST Te Compofing, and Drefling
of a SALLET.

ND Firft, as to the Seafon, both Plants and Roots are then

properly to be gather'd, and in prime, when moft they
abound with Juice and in Vigour : Some in the Spring, or a
little anticipating it before they Bloffom, or are in full Flower :
Some in the Autumnal Months; which later Seafon many prefer
the Sap of the Herb, tho’ not in fuch Exuberance, yet as being
then better concocted, and fo render'd’fit for Saé/eténg, ‘till the
Spring begins a-frefh to put forth new and tender Shoots and

eaves.

: This, indeed, as to the Root newly taken out of the Ground,
is true ; and therefore fhould fuch have their Germination ftop’d
the fooner: The approaching and prevailing Cold, both: matu-
ring and impregnating them ; as'does Heat the contrary, which
now Would but exhauit them : But for thofe other E/culents and
Herbs employ’d in our Compofition of Sallets, the early Spring,
and enfuing .Months (till they begin to mount, and prepare to
Seed) is certainly the moft natural and kindly Seafon to collect
and accommodate them for the Table. “Some Critical Imper-
tinents refer not to the very Day only, but to the very Hour
and Minute; for inftance, the Bedis-major to the 4th, 5th, 6th,
and 7th of April before Sun-rifing, and certain Minutes before
or after, to render the Roots emollient, and prevalent againft the
Palfy : But for the ‘Hemeroids in June, Three Days before the
Full, in the Evening. There is, indeed, in the gathering a J/e-
ton, fame Aceuracy—to—be obferv’d, as to the time_of the Day,
in refpect of Swx, and juft point of Perfection: But for this let
none confult Culpeper, or the Figure-flingers , to inform them
when the governing Planet is in its Exaltation ; but look upon

— ACETARIA

both: Too much of the f/f extreamly debilitating and weak-
ning the Vertricle, and haftning the further decay of fickly Teeth ;
and of the fecond, the Optic Nerves, and Sight it felf :-The like
may be faid of all the reft. I conceive therefore, a prudent Per-
fon, well acquainted with the Nature and Properties of SaZet-
Herbs, &c. to be both the fitteft Gatherer and Compofer too ;

which_yet will require no great Cunning, after once he is ac-
quatted wich our Zable and Catalogue. :

We purpofely, and in tranfitu only, take notice heré of the .

Pickl'd, Muriated, or otherwife prepared Herbs; excepting fome
fach Plants, and Proportions of them, as are hard of Digeftion,

and not fit to be eaten altogether crude, (of which in the Ap-.. -

pendix) and among which I reckon Afben-keys, Broom-buds and
Pods, Haricos, Gurkems, Olives, Capers, the Buds and Seeds of
Nafturtia, Toung Walnuts, Pine-apples, Eringo, Cherries, Cornelians,
Berberries, &c. together with feveral Stalks, Roots, and Fruits ;
ordinary Pot-herbs, Anis, Ciffus Hortorum, Horminum, Pulegium,
Saturcia, Thyme ; the entire Family of Pulfe and Legumena ; or
other Sauces, Pies, Tarts, Omlets, Tanfy, Farces, &c, Condites and

Preferves with Sagar by the Hand of Ladies ; tho’ they are all

of them the genuine Production of the Garden, and mention’d in
our Xalendar, together with their Culture ; whilft we confine our

felves to fuch Plants and Ejfcu/enta as we find at hand;- delight -

our felves to gather, and are eafily prepar'd for an Extemporary
Cofation, or to ufher in, and accompany other (more folid, tho’
haply not more agreeable.) Dithes, as the Cuftom is.

But there now ftarts up a Queftion, Whether it were better,
or more proper, to Jegin with Sallets, or end and conclude with
them? Some think the harder Meats fhould firft be eaten for
better Concoétion ; others, thofe of eafieft Digeftion, to make
way, and prevent Obftruction ; and this’ makes for our Sallets,
Horarii, and Fugaces Fruétus (as they call ’em)*to be eaten firft
of all, as agreeable to the general Opinion of the great. Aippocrates,
and Galen, and of Celfus before him. And therefore the French
do well to begin with their Herbaceous Pottage ; and for the crx-
der a.Reafon is given : ;

* Prima tibi dabitur Ventri Lactuca, movendo
Utilis, © Poris fila refecta fuis.

apygio, they anciently did quite the ‘contrary,

* Mart. Epig

lib xi. 39

f Athen. 12>
Pr : , bee , Of which

And tho ‘this Cuftom came in about Domitian's Time +, 5 paev Change of Die?

fee Plut. iv.

Sympol. 9.

the Fruits and Plants themfelves, and judge of their Vertues by : wee ee
their own Complexions. ; * || Gratagque nobilinm Lattuca ciborum, Vin ue
Moreover, in Gathering, refpect is to be had to’ their Pro- ing. Me-

reto,
ortions, as provided for in the Zable under that Head, be the But of later Times, they were conftant at the Avte-cania, eating .

P. > as p , Paccann , y g

Quality whatfoever: For tho there is, indeed, nothing more

lform than Le d Muftard for the Head and Eyes; yet plentifully of Sallet, efpecially of Lettuce, and more refrigerating
wholfom than Lettuce and Muftara tor the £2¢éa yes 5

ar Herbs. Nor without Caufe- For drinking liberally, they were
. gither of them eaten in excefs, were highly prejudicial en found to expel and allay the Fumes and Vapours of the genial
; : oth :

Compotation, the {piritous' Liquor gently conciliating Sleep : Be-
7 ae : Aaaaa fides

= =

a. SRE = a 5
= _— —~ -

ET ene eee Ste — wk:

= ——
Ss

19¢. c55 ACETARIA ,
fides, that being of a crude Nature, more difpos’d, and apt to

fluctuate, corrupt, and difturb a furcharg’d Stomach ; they thought

convenient‘ to begin with Sa/ets, and innovate the ancient

Viage.
: Nam Laéluca innatat acri
Poft Vinum Stomacho———

* Hor. Sat.
1.2, Sat. 4.

For if on drinking Wine you Lettuce eat,
It floats upon the Stomach “

The Spaniards, notwithftanding, ‘eat but fparingly of Herbs
at Dinner, efpecially Lettuce, beginning with Fruzt, even before
the Olio and Hot-Meats come to the Table; drinking their Wine
pure, and eating the beft Bread in the World; fo as it feems the
Queftion ftill remains undecided with them,

+ Mart. Ep

i + Claudere qua cenas LattucdJolebat avorum,
eV. Ep. 17.

Dic mihi cur noftvas inchoat ila dapes ?

The Sallet, which of old came in at laft,
Why now-with it begin we our Repatft ?

“And now fince we mention’d Fruit, there rifes another Scru-
* Concerning ple: Whether Apples, Pears, Abricots, Cherries, Plums, and- other

Cont frait-Tree, and Ort-yard-Frait, are to be reckon'd among Salleting ;
é, 70 . . :
azhers) whee and when likewife moft feafonably to be eaten? But as none of

her beft to be thefe do properly belong to our Catalogue of Herbs and Plants,

taten before or

sfter Meas 7 tO Which this Difcourfe is confin'd (befides what we may occa-
Publipoed by « fionally {peak of hereafter) there is a very ufeful * Treatife on

Retin F that: Subject already Publith’d. We haften then in the next Place

vender'd out of to the-Drefing and Compofing of our-Sallet: For by this time,
French into’ gyre Scholar may long to fee the Rules reduc'd to Prattice, and

po refreth himfelf with what he finds growing among his own La-

T. Baffetin yceta, and other Beds of the Kitchin-Garden.
Fleetftreet. ‘ :

DRESSING.

AM- not ambitious of -béeing thought an excellent Cook, or
of théfe who fet up and value themfelves for their Skill in
Sauces ; fuch as was Mithacus a Culinary Philofopber, and other
Erudite Gule ; who read Lectures of Hfautgouts, like the Ar-
cheftratus in Athenaus : Tho’ after what we find the Herses did of

Old, and fee them chining out the flaughter’d Ox, drefiing the

* Achilles, Meat, and do the Offices of both Cook and Butcher, (for {o* Ho-

Farrocluss mer reprefents Achilles himfelf, and the reft of thofe Illuftrious

Uiad. ix Greeks )—Lfay, after this, let none reproach our Sadlet-Drefer, or
alibi, difdain fo clean, innocent, fweet, and natural a Quality ; 7.
PCy _ par

‘

set

ACETARI A

—pard with the Shambles Filth and Nidor, Blood and Cruelty ;
whilft all the World were Eaters and Compofers of Salets in its

beft and brighteft ‘Age. ©

The Ingredients therefore gather’d and proportion’d, as above,
let the Endive have all its out-fide Leaves ftrip'd off, flicing
in the White : In like manner the SeZery is alfo to have the hol-
low green Stem or Stalk trimm’d and divided; flicing in the
blanched Part, and cutting the Root into four equal Parts.

Lettuce, Creffes, Radifb, &c. (as was directed) mutt be exquifite-
ly pick’d, cleans‘d, wath’d,-and put into the Strainer ; fwing’d, and
fhaken gently, and, if you pleafe, feparately, or all together ; be-
caufe fome like not fo well the 4/anch’d and bitter Herbs, if eaten
with the reft: Others mingle Endive, Succory, and Rampions,
without diftinction, and generally eat Sellery by. it felf, as alfo
Sweet Fennel.

From 4pri/ till ‘September (and during all the hot Months) may ~~

Guiney-Pepper and Horfe-Radifh be left out; and therefore we

only mention them in the Drefling, which fhould be in this’

manner.

Your Herbs being handfomly parcell’d, and fpread on’a clean
Napkin before you, are to be mingl’d together in one of the
Earthen. glaz’d Difhes:: Then for -the Oxoleon; take of clear,
and perfectly good Oy/-Olive, ‘three Parts; of tharpeft Vinegar
(* fweeteft of all Condiments) Limon,or Juice of Orange, one
Part ; and therein let fteep fome Slices of Horfe-Radifh, with a
little Salt: Some, in a feparate Vinegar, gently bruife a Pod of
Guiney-Pepper, {training both the Viaegars a-part, to make ufe of

* For fo [ome
pronounce it,
V. Atheneum

Deip. Lib. Il.

Cap. 26.1d G@ ov raren
quafi ndvoud,

either, or one alone, or of both, as they beft like ; then add as perhaps: for

much Zewksbury, or other dry Muffard grated, as will lie upon
an Half-Crown Piece : Beat and mingle all thefe very well toge-
ther ; but pour not on the Oy/ and Vinegar, till immediately be-

‘fore the Sal/et is ready to be eaten: And then with the Zo/k of

two new-laid Eggs (boil’d and prepar’d, as before is taught)
fquafh and bruife them all into math with a*Spoon ; and laftly,
pour it all upon the Herds, ftirring and mingling them till they
are well and throughly imbib’d ; not forgetting the Sprinklings of
Aromatics, and fuch Flowers as we have already mentioned, if
you think fit, and garnifhing the Difh with the thin Slices of
Horfe-Radifh, Red Beet, Berberries, &c. ‘ f

Note, That the Liquids may be made more or lels Acid, as is
moft agreeable to your Tafte.

Thefe Rules and Prefcriptions duly obferv'd, you have a Sallet
(for a Table of Six or Eight Perfons) dre/s'd, and accommo-
dated fecundum Artem : For, .as the ¢ Proverb has it,

- "Qu mavms aveps enw apricut xgAws.
Non eft cujufvis rece condire.

Aaaaa»

that it incites

Appetite, and
caufes Hunger,
which is the
beft Saxce.

¢ Cratinus in
Glattco.

—————eEeEEEE——EE————

?
to

1% 0C~CC i AOR P ARPS

And stow after all we have advane’d in favour of the Her-
baceous Diet, there ftill emerges a Third Inquiry ; namely, Whe-
ther the Ufe of crude Herbs and Plants are fo wholfom: as is pre-
tended ? od

What Opinion'the Prince’ of Phyficians had of them, we fhall
fee hereafter; a8 alfo what the Sacred Records of elder Times
feem to’ infer, before there were any Elefh-Shambles in the
World ; together with the Reports of fuch as are often conver-
fant among many Nations and People, who to this Day, living
on Herbs and Roots, arrive to incredible Age, in conftant Health
and Vigour: Which, whether attributable to the Air and Climate,
Cuftom, Conftitution, &c. fhould be enquir’d into; efpecially, when
we compare the Antediluvians mention’d Gen, 1.29.—- the whole
Fifth and Ninth Chapters, ver. 31 confining them to Fruit and
wholfom Sallets: I deny mot that—both the Air and Earth
might then be lefs humid and clammy, and confequently Plants
and Herbs better fermented, concocted, and lefs rheumatick, than
fince, and prefently.after ; to fay nothing of the infinite Numbers
of putrid Carcaffes* of dead Animals, perifhing in the Flood,
(of which I find few, if any, have taken notice) which needs muft
have corrupted the Air: Thofe who live in Marfhes, and uligi-

- «nous Places, ‘(like the Hundreds of Effex) being more obnoxious
. to Fevers, Agues, Pleurifies, and pie unhealehful : The Earth
alfo then avery Bog, compar’d, with what it likely was before

that deftructive Catacly/m, when Men breath’d the pure Paradiftan -

Air, facking in a more ethereal, nourifhing, and baulmy Pabulum,
fo foully vitiated now, thro’ the Intemperance, Luxury, and tofter
Education and Effeminacy of the Ages fince. .

Cuftom and Conftitution come next to be examin’d, together
with the Qualities, and Vertue of the Food ; and, I confefs, the two
firft, efpecially that of Cox/titution, feems to me the more likely
Caufe of Health, and confequently of Long-life; which induc’d
me to confider of what Quality the ufual Sa//et Furniture did
more eminently confift, that fo it might become more fafely ap-
plicable to the Temper, Humour, and Difpofition of our Bodies;
according to which, the various Mixtures might be regulated and
proportion’d : There’s no doubt, but thofe whofe Conftitutions
are cold and moift, are naturally-affected with Things which

* Nat. Hit, 24C hot and dry; as on the contrary, hot and dry Complexions,
IV. Gent. Vi. With fuch as cool and: refrigerate ; — perhaps made the Fu-
nie Axi. nior Gordian (and others like him) prefer the frigide Menfe (as
Quep. 36. Of old they call’d Sallets}) which, according to Cornelius Celfus,
Why jome igs the fitteft Diet for Odefe and corpulent Perfons, as not fo
pnts nutritive, and apt to pamper; and confequently, that for the
raw, others COld, lean, and emaciated, fuch Herby Ingredients fhould be
beil'd, reafted, made choice of, as warm, and cherifh the natural Heat, depure

pectin a the Blood, breed a laudable Juice, and revive the Spirits : And

but r: cote, therefore my Lord * Baten fhews what are beft raw, what boild, -
yranfa.” and what Parts of Plants fitteft to nourifh. Galen, indeed;teems ~

oe rene (|

ACET ART A 185°
-to exclude them/all, unle@, well accompany’d with their due
Corredtives, af which we have taken. cite p Mocwithttindin ie
that. even the moft Crude and Herby, actually cold and - hse
may, potentially be hot and ftrengthning, as we find in the
moft vigorous Animals, whofe Rood ‘is only Grafs. Tis true, in-
deed}, Nature has: providentially mingl’d and drefs’d a Sallet for
them im every Field, befides: what they diftinguith by Smell;
nor queftion [, but Mam, at firt knew what Plants and Fruits
were good before the Fall, by, his natural Sagacity, and not Ex-

- perience; which fince, by Art and Trial, and) long Obfervation

of their Properties and Effects, they hardly recover. In

am fo well fatisfy'd of the wonderful, tho? yet acd vs.

tue of Plants.and Vegetables, applicable to all Humane Infirmities
whatfoever, Cextream old Age excepted, and: the jrreverfible De-

cree, That we all muft die), as fhews, that GOD, by his Omni-

fcience, knowing that Man would tranfgrefs, and that fponta-

neoufly, (tho’ left entirely free) providentially endow’d the Ve-

getable with thofe admirable Properties we daily difcover in them

and yet remain‘ conceal’d ; fince otherwife (had our firft Parent

periifted in his Integrity) there had been no ufe of Remedies, no

Sicknefs or Difeafe requiring them: But to return, as to what

in the prefent State Things are, fuppofing with * Cardan ,*Card. Cm
that Plants nourith little, they hurt as little. Nay, Experience 774i"
tells us, that they not only hurt-not at all, but exceedingly be- Cant, 18. Die

~~mefit thofe who ufe them ;"indu’d-as they are with*fuch admi- Phils» «

rable Properties, as they every Day difcover: For fome Plants us. gl

not only nourifh laudably, but induce a manifeft and: wholfom
Change; as Onions, Garlick, Rochet, &c. which are both nutri-

‘tive and warm; Lettuce, Purfelan, the Intybs, &c. and indeed

moft of the,O/era refrefh and cool : -And’ ‘as’ their ‘refpective

. Juices being convertéd into the Subftances of our Bodies, they be-

come Aliment ; fo in regard of their Change and Alteration, we
may allow them Medicinal; efpecially the. greater. Numbers,
among which we all this while have Skill but of very few. (not:
only in the pers Kingdom, but in the whole Materia Medica}
which may!be juftly call’d Jefalible Specifics, and upon whofe
Performance “we may as fafely depend, as) we may om fuch as
familiarly we ufe for a crude Herb-Sadet; difcreetly chofen,
‘mingld,—and—drefs'd-accordingly :-Not—but- that many of them
may be improv’d, and render’d better:in Broaths and Deco¢tions,
than in Oy/, Viwegar, and other Liquids and Ingredients : But as
this holds not in all, nay, perhaps in very few comparatively, €pro-
vided, as I faid, the Choice, Mixture, Conftitution, and S¢a/on
rightly be underftood) we ftand up in Defence and Vindication
of our Sallet, againft all Attacks and Oppofers whoever.

We have mentioned Seafon, and, with the great Hippocrates,
pronounce thera more proper for the Summer than the Win-
ter; and when thofe Parts of Plants us‘d ia Sallet are yet ten-
der, delicate, and impregnated with the Vertue of -she Spring,
to cool, refrefh, and allay the Heat and Drought of the Hot

— and

ACETARIA

and Bilious, Young and over-Sanguine, Cold, Pituit, and Me-
lancholy : In a word, for Perfons of all Ages, Humours, and
Conftitutions whatfoever. A

To this of the Annual Seafons, we add that of Culture'alfo, as hi

of very great Importance: And this is often difcover'd in the
Tafte, and confequently, in the Goodnefs of fuch Plants and Sa/-
leting as are rais'd and brought us frefh out‘of the Country, com-
par'd with thofe which the Avarice of the Gard’ner or Luxury
rather of the Age, tempts them to-force and- refufcitate of the
moft defirable and delicious Plants. : ;

* sir Thomas Jt is certain, fays a * Learned Perfon, that about populous

Brown's
MiJcel.

* Caule fub-
urbano qui

ficcis crevit
in agris dul-

Cities, where Grounds are over-forc'd for Fruit and early Saller-
ing, nothing is more unwholfom: Men in the Country look fo
much more healthy and frefh; and commonly are longer liv’d
than thofe who dwell in the Middle and Skirts of vaft and
crowded Cities, inviron’d with-rotten Dung, loathfom and
common Lay-Stalls; whofe noifom St@yms, wafted by the Wind,
poifon and infeé& the ambient Air and vital Spirits, with thofe
pernicious Exhalations-and Materials of which they make the
Hot Beds for the raifing of thofe Pracoces indeed, and forward
Plants and Roots for the wanton Palate; but which being cor-
rupt in the Original,» cannot but produce malignant and ll
Effeéts to thofe who feed.upon them. And the fame was well
obferv’d by the Editor of our famous Roger Bacon's Treatife
concerning the Cure of Old Age, and Prefervation of Youth: There
being nothing fo proper for Sallet Herbs and other Edule Plants,
as the genial and natural Mould, impregnate, and enrichd with
well-digefted Compoft ( when requifite) without any mixture
of Garbage, odious Carrion, and other filthy Ordure, not half
confum’'d and ventilated, and indeed reduc'd to the next Difpo-
fition of Earth it felf, as it fhould be ; and that in {weet, + rifing,
aery, and moderately perflatile Grounds, where not only Péants
but. Men do laft, and live much longer.. Nor doubt I, but that

cio.—~ Hor.eyery Body would prefer Corn and other Grain, rais’d from

Sat. 1.2.9 4.

eee

Marle, Chalk, Lime,.and othex fweet Soil and Amendments, be-
fore that which is produc'd from the Duaghil only. Befidé, Ex-
perience fhews that the ranknefs of Dung is frequently the caufe
of Blafts and Smuttinefs; as if the Lord of the Univerfe, by an
A of vifible Providence would check us, to take heed of all un-

natural Sordidnefs and Mixtures. We fenfibly find this difference —
in Cattle and their Patture ; but moit powerfully in Fos, from ~~~

fuch as are nourifh’d with Corn, {weet and dry Food: And as of
Vegetable Meats, fo of Drinks, ‘tis obferv'd, that the fame Vine,

_ according to the Soil, produces a Wine twice as heady as in the

fame, and a lefs forc’d Ground ; ,and the like I believe of all
other Fruit ; not to determine any thing of the Peach, faid to be
Poifon in Perfia, becaufe ’tis a vulgar Error. \n_ the mean while,
this is highly remarkable, (if conftant) That fince the Confla-
gration, the fo frequent Lay-Stalls of Dung, and other noxious

Filth, which poifon‘d-the ambient -Air in and about the City of

London ¥

ee cee ie

London, have been remov’'d, the Pits and Receptacles fill’d up,
drain’d, made level, ard in divers Places built upon, and turn’d
into ample Squares, Péazzas, and Streets, as (Brideweb-Dock, Lin-
‘coln’s-Inn-Fields, Covent-Garden, the great Square and Grounds
about St. fames’s,- and feveral other ‘greater, fome in the very
middle of the Town) I fay, fince this Purgation, it has been
obferv’d, that the Bills of Weekly Mortality have confiderably de-
creas’d, the Number of Inhabitants. and Buildings exceedingly.
increafing, being compar’d with the former. .

And now to return to thofe O/itories, moft fenfibly, affected
with thofe Contaminations, and for that, among other Things,
nothing more betrays its unclean and fpurious Birth, than what
is fo impatiently mit after, as early Afparagus, &c. * Dr. Li-'* Tanna

fier, (according to his|communicative and obliging Nature) has Philof Num.
taught us how to raife fuch as our Gard’ners cover with nafiy *“

Litter during the Winter; by rather laying of clean and {weet
Wheat-Straw upon the Beds, /uper_feminating and over-ftrowing
them thick with the Powder of bruifed Oy/ler-Shells, &c. to pro-
duce that moft tender and delicious Sa//et. And there is an Art
{o to raife thofe Plants, in the midft of the fevereft Winter-Seafon,
without the leaft taint of the fulfome Bed, to the lofs of the
Mother-Roots, which always perifh in exerting their utmoft Vi-
gour (like a Woman in dificult Travail) with their Life ; as

= fhall not only preferve Both the one and the other, but be ex-

ceedingly agreeable : It being the lofs of the Mother-Plant in
the vulgar Method, which renders this Delicacy fo dear in the
Market, in recompenfe of the Gard'ner’s Lots, to’ gratify the
luxurious Palate: But this, and other Secrets of Horticulture
Myfteries, are'referv'd for another Occafion : In the mean while,
if nothing will fatisfy fave what is raisd Extempore, and by Mi-
racles of Art, fo long before the time; let them ftudy (like the
Adepti) as did a very ingenious Gentleman whom I knew ; That
— {ome Friends of his accidentally come to dine with him,
atid’ wanting an early Sallet, before they fat down to Table,
fowed Lettuce, and fome other Seeds, in a certain Compofition of
Mould he had prepared; which within the Space of two Hours,
being rifen near two Inches high, prefented them with a delicate
and tender Sal/et; and this, without making ufe of any naufeous
or-fulfome Mixture_;but_of Ingredients nor altogether fo cheap
thaps. Honoratus Faber (no mean Philofopher) {hews us ano-
ther Méthod, by fowing the Seeds fteep’d in Vinegar, -cafting om
it a good quantity of Bean-Shell Athes, irrigating them with Spe: ét of
Wine, and keeping the Beds well cover’d under dry Matts. Such
another Procefs tor the raifing early Peas and Beans, &c. we

have the like* Accounts of, efpecially that of Mr. Gifford, Mini- « suns, xviii

fter of -Montacute, as follows. May the 10th. 2679. I fleep’d
Nine Beans firft in Sack Five Days, then being taken out, I put
them’ in Sallet-Oyl Five Days, then in Brandy Four Days, and about
Noon fet them in an Hot-Bed againft a South-Wall, cafting all the
Liquor wherein they had been infus'd (and referv'd in feveral Pots)

J negligently

* Cel. Lib.

ACETARIA .

negligently about the Holes: The fame Day, within Three Fours
Space, (that is about Two a-clock) Eight of the Nine came up, and
were then a foot bigh, with all their Leaves, (as other growing Beans
ufe to have) and on the Morrow a foot more in height ; the Third

Day they bloffom'd, and in a Week were podded, and full ripe, and .

fome even black-ey’d, but none of them bigger than our common Field
or Horfe-Beans, tho’ what I try'd the Experiment with were of the
largeft. ‘The Procefs was nothing fo {peedy as thofe mentioned.
And after all, were it, much more practicable and certain, I
confefs I fhould not be fonder of them, than of fuch as the ho-
neft induftrious Country-Man’s Field, and Good-Wife’s Garden,
feafonably proddce ; where they are legitimately born in juft time,
and without forcing Nature.

But to return again to Health and Long-Life, and the Whole-
* Thefaur. Sa- fomnefs of the Herby-Diet, * fohm Beverovicius, a Learned Phy-

fician, (out of Peter Moxa, a Spaniard) treating of the extream
Age, which thofe of America ufually arrive to, afferts in behalf of

t4:Dalecam- eryde and natural Herbs: Diphilus of Old, + as Athenaus tells

PlUS interprets

us, was on the other fide, againft all the Tribe of O/era in general ;
and Cardan of late (as already noted)-no great Friend to them,
affirming Fle(fh-Eaters to be much wifer and mere--fagacious.

! ae tee «¢ But this his |]. Learned Antagonift utterly denies ; whole Nations,
21; Flefh-Devourers (fuch as the fartheft Northern) becoming heavy,

dull, unactive, and much more ftupid than the Southern ; and fuch
as feed much on. Plants, are more acute, fubtle, and of deeper Pe-
netration; witnefs the Chaldeans, Affyrians, Egyptians, &c. And
further argues from the fhort Lives of moft Carnivorous Animals,
compar’d with Grafs Feeders, and ruminating kind; asthe Hart,
Camel, and the longevous Elepbant, and other Feeders on Roots
and Vegetables.

I know what is pretended of our Bodies being compos'd of
Difimilar Parts, and fo requiring variety of Food : Nor do! re-
jet the Opinion, keeping to the fame Species ; of which there is

infinitely more variety in the Herby Family, than invall Nature \_

befides : But the danger is in the Generical difference of Fle/h, Fifh,
Fruit, &c. with other made Difhes and exotic Sauces; which
a wanton and expenfive Luxury has introduc’d ; debauching the
Stomach, and fharpening it to devour things of fuch difficult
Concoétion, with thofe of more eafy Digeftion, and of contrary
Subftances, more-than it-can- well difpofe of :-Otherwife-Food-of
the fame kind would do us little hurt : So true is that of * Ce/fas,
Eduntur facilius ; ad concottionem autem materia, genus, modus
pertineat. They are (fays he) eafily eaten and taken in.: But
regard fhould be had to their Digeftion, Nature, Quantity and
Quality of the Matter. As to that of Difimilar Parts, requi-
ring this contended for Variety: If we may judge by other Ani-
mals (as I know not why we may not) there is (after all che late
Contefts about Comparative Anatomy) {o little difference in the
Structure, as to the Ufe of thofe Parts and Veilels deftin’d to ferve

the Offices of Concodtion, Nutrition, and other Separations for

Supply

_ og LTP EER 189
Supply of Life, Gc. "That it does not appear why there thou
need any difference at all of Food; of whieh the et pt
ever been’ eficem’d the'beft-and moft wholfom, according to that
of the Natoralift,. Hominis cibus utilifimas fimplex. And that {o* Plin. Nit
it is in-other Animals, we find by their being fo feldom afflidted Mf. /3.¢.14.
-with Men $ Diftempers; deriv’d from the Caufes above-mentioned :
And if the many Difeafes of Horfes feem to + conttadi&t it, t Hanc bre-
Tam apt to think i¢*much imputable to the Rack and Manger, witatem View
the dry and wither'd Stable Commons, which they muft eat ot lon) te
flarve, however ‘qualify'd; being reftrain’d from their natural tae homini
and {pontaneous Choice, which Nature and Inftin@ directs them rg -
to: To thefe add the clofenefs of the Air, ftanding in an almott Mores set
continu’ Pofture ; befides the fulfom Drenches, unfeafonable ‘rsh
War'rings, and other Practices of ignorant Horfe- Quacks, and furly Macrob- ee
Grooms : The Tyranny and cruel Ufage of their Mafters in tiring #7 vit
Journeys, hard, labouring, and unmerciful Treatment, Heats, ~ ”
Colds, &c. which wear out and deftroy fo many of thofe ufeful
and generous Creatures before 'the'time: Such as have been bet-
ter usd, and fome, whom their more gentle and good-natur'd
Patrons have in recompence of their long~and faithful Service
difmifs'd, and fent. to Pafture for the reft of their Lives (as the
Grand Signior does his Meccba-Camel) have been known to live
Forty, Fifty, nay (fays |] Arifforle.) no fewer than Sixty five Years, ll Aritt. nif
When once Old Par came to'change his fimple homely Diet, “”™!*¥

96. 14,

to that of the Court and Arundel: Hloufe, he quickly funk and drop’d

away: For, as we have thew’, the Stomach eafily concoéts plain

and familiar Food; but finds it a hard and difficult Task to
vanquifh and overcome Meats of * different Subftances : Whence * vse st:
we fo often f€e temperate and abf{temious Perfons, of a Colle. 7#2*
giate Diet, very healthy i Husbandmen and laborious People,

iv

more robuft, and longer liv'd, than others of an uncertain ex.
travagant Diet.

chee Nam varia res t Hot. Set.
Ut noceant Homini, credas, memor illius efte + elapse
wae fi J li ‘bi (ederi ? Macr. Saf,
Qua fmplex olim tibi federit,___.. 4. VIL.

For different Meats do hurt ; remember ioey
When to one Dith confin’d, thou healthier waft then now;

was-Ofellus's- Memorandum in thie Poet.

Not that Variety (which God has certainly ordain’d to delight

‘and affift our Appetite) is ee nan nor any thi
; y thing more

grateful, refrefhing and propef’for thofe efpecially who | eS
dentary and ftudious Lives; Men of deep Thought, si foch a
are otherwife difturb’d with fecular Cares and Bufinefles, which
hinders the Funétion of the Stomach, and other Organs ; whilft
— who have _ — free, ufe much Exercife, and are more
active, create thetnfelves a natural Appetite,’ which i

RO Variety to quicken and content ite pie woth necds litle-or

Bbbbb . And.

AGBRTLAREA »

And bees might we atteft, the: Patriarchal World; nay, and
many Perfons fince, who living very temperately, came not much
fhort of the Pof-dilwusans themfelves, counting from Abrabam to
this Day; and fome exceeding. them, who livd in pure Air, @
conftant, tho’ courfe and fimple Diet ; wholfom and uncom-
pounded Drink; that never tefted Brandy or Exotic. Spirits,
but us’d moderate Exercife, and obferv’d good Hours : For, fach

a one a curious Miffonary tells us of ia Perfia, who had attain’d
the Age of Four hundred Tears, (a full Century beyond the fa-
mous. Johannes de~T emporibus) and was living Auso 1636, and
fo may be ftill for ought we know. But, to our Sallet,.
Certain it is, Almighty God ordaining-* Herds. and Fruit for
' the Food of Men, pais not a Word concerning Fle/h for. Two
thoufand Years. And when after, .by the: Ae/aic Conftirution,
there were Difting@tions and Prohibitions about the ‘legal Un-
cleannefs of Amimals;' Plants, of what kind foever, were left
free and indifferent for,every one to chedfe what beft he lik’d.

And what-if ic-was held undecent and unbecoming the Excellency
of Man’s Nature, before Sin entred; and grew enormoufly wic-
ked, that any Creature fhould; be put to Death and Pain for
him who-had fuch infinite Store of. the moft delicious and nou-
rifhing Fruit to delight, and the Tree of Life to fuftain, him ?

Doubtlefs there was,no need of it: Infants fought the Mother's —

Nipple as foon as born 3. and when grown, and.able to feed them-
felves, run naturally to Fruit, and ftill will choofe to eat it-ra-
ther than Fleth; and certainly might fo perfift to do, did not

_.....Cuftom.-prevail, even againft the very Diétates of Nature: Nor

+. Metam. fe
Fab, iii. & xv.

queftion I, but. that what the Heathen + Poets recount of the
Happinefs of the Golden Age, {prung from fome Tradition they
had received of the Paradiffan Fare, their-innocent and health-
ful Lives in that delightful Garden. Let it fuffice, that Adem,
and his yet innocent Spoufe, fed on Vegetables, and other Hor-
tulan Produdtions, before the fatal Lapfe; which, by the way,
many Learned Men will hardly allow to have fallen out fo foon
as thofe imagine who fcarcely grant them a fingle Day, nay,

ACETARIA

’ This then premis’d Cas I fee no reafon wh it fhould not)
and that during all this Space they liv’d on Fraéts and Sadets; ‘tis
Tittle probable, that after their Tranfgreffion, and that they had
forfeited their Dominion over the Creature Cand were fentenc’d
aod wails to a Life of Sweat and Labour on 4 curfed and un-
grateful Soil) the offended God fhould regale them with Pam-
pering Flefb, or fo much as fuller them to flay the more in-
nocent Animal: Or, that if at any time they had Permiffion, it
was for any thing fave Skins to cloath them, or in way of
Adoration, or Holocauf? for Expiation, of which nothing of the
Flefb was to be eaten. Nor did the Brutes themfelves {ubfift
by Prey (tho’ pleas’d perhaps.with Hunting, without deftroying
their Fellow-Creatures) as may be prefum'd from their long Se-
clufion ‘of the moft Carnivorous among them in the Ark.

Thus then for Two thoufand Years, the Univerfal Food was
Herbs and Plants; which abundantly recompensd the want of
Flefh and other luxurious Meats, which fhortned their Lives fo

many Hundred Years; the * ygxepsrnle of the Patriarchs, which* cen. rx.

was an Emblem of Eternity as it were (after the new Conceflion)
beginning to dwindle to a little Span, a Nothing in Compa-
rifon. I know well what the late Claudius Freffen, in his Bibhica
Difquifitiones, has faid upon this occafion ; however I ftill ad-

here to the other Opinion.

On the other fide, examine we the prefent Ufages of feveral
other Heathen Nations ; particularly (befides the Agyptian Priefis
of old) the Z#dian Bramins, Relicts of the ancient Gymnofophifts, to
this Day obferving the Inftitutions of their Founder. File(h,
we know was banith’d- the Platonic Tables, as well as from thofe

+ Porphyr. de

of Pythagoras ; (See + Porphyry and their Difciples) tho’ on diffe- Appin. Pro-
rent Accounts. Among others of the Philofophers, from Xenocra- clum, Jambic-
tes, Polemon, &c. wehear of many. The like we find in|] Cle- 70S

* : ‘ \| Strom. vil
ment Alexand. * Eufebius names more. Zeno, Archinomus, Phraar-* Prep. Ev

tes, Chiron, and others, whom Leertius reckons up. Inthort, fo Paffim.

very many, efpecially of the Chriftian Profeffion, that fomne, even

of the ancient || Fathers themfelves, have almoft thought that | Tertul. de
the Permiffion of eating Flefh to Noah. and his Sons, was granted 79%”. “aP. iv:
them no otherwife than Repudiation of Wives was to the Jews, ver) Jovin.
namely, for the hardne/s of their Hearts, and \to fatisfy a mur-

muring Generation, that a little after loathed Manna it {clf, and
Bread-from—Fleaven, So-difficult-a thing itis circumbjcribere gu-

dam & ventrem, to fubdue an unryly A petite; which notwith-* sen. zpif:
ftanding * Seneca thinks not fo hard a Jask; where fpeaking of '<°

the Philofopher Sextius, and Socton's (abborring Cruelty and
Intemperance) he celebrates the Advantages of the Herby and

Sabet Diet, as Phyfical, and Nafyral At ancers of Health and

other Bleffings ; whilft‘Abftinence from, i ‘rive

thing but what Lions, Vultures, Beafts and Birds of Prey, blood

and gorge themfelves withal. The whole Epiftle deferves the

*

nor half a one, for their Continuance,in the State of Original
Perfection ; whilft the fending him into the Garden ; Inftructi-
ons how he, fhould’ keep and cultivate it; Adit and Prohibition
concerning the Sacramental Trees ; the Impofition of * Names, fo
appofite to-the-Nature~of fuch-an—Infinity—of—Living Creatures
- (requiring deep Infpection ;) the Formation of Zve, a meet Com-
panion to relieve his Solitude ; the Solemnity of their Marriage ;
the Dialogues and Succefs of the crafty Tempter, whom we cannot
reafonably think made but one Affault: And that they fhould fo
quickly forget the Injunction of their Maker and Benefactor ;
break their faith and Faft, and all other their Obligations, in fo
few Moments I fay, all thefe Particulars confider'd, can it be
fuppofed they were fo foon tranfacted as thofe do fancy, who
take their Meafure from the Summary AMfes gives us; who did _ reading, fot the -excellent Advice he gives on this and other
not write to gratify. Mens Curiofity, but to tranfmit whatwas ne- Subjects; and how from many rroubléfon and ‘flavifh Imperti- —
' eeflary and fufficiens for us to know. Fhis : ; nerices,

a. deprives Mien of no-

ee ee re

roms, &c. Hac enim non Cibi, fed Oblectamenta funt ; not fo much

* 1 Cor. viil-8.
1 Timiv, 1. 3+
14+ Rom. ii. 3,

|| Colci Plaut.
Lib-1;-Laue
ca.

of

ACETARIA

ences, grown ingo Habit and Cuftom (old as he was) he had
ar

emancipated and freed himfelf; and never would eat Oy/fers, Mufh-
as allowing them the Name of Food: Be this apply’d to our
prefent_exceflive. Drinkers of Foreign and Exotic Liquors, And
now . ;

‘I am fufficiently fenfible how far, and to how little purpofe
Tam gone on this Topic :-‘Fhe-Ply is long fince taken, and our
raw Sader deck in its. beft Trim, is never like to invite Men
who once have tafted Flefh, to quit and abdicate a Cuftom
which has now ‘fo long obtain'd. Nor truly do. I think Con-
fcience at all concern’d in the matter, upon any account of di-
ftin&tion of Pure and Impure ; tho’ ferioufly confider’d-(as Sextius
held) rationi magis congrua, as it regards the cruel Butcheries of fo
many harmlefs Creatures; fome of which we put to mercilefs and
needlefs Torment, to accommodate them for exquifite and un-
common Epicurifm.- There lies elfe no pofitive Prohibition ;
Difcrimination of Meats being * condemn’d as the Doctrine of
Devils : Nor do‘Meats commend us to God. One eats quid vult Cof
pa thing) another Olera, and of Sadets only.: But this is not
my Bufinefs, further than to thew how poffible it is by fo many

Inftances and Examples, to live on wholfom. Vegetables, Vii

long and happily : For fo
oe

|| Has Epulas habuit teneri gens aurea mundi,
Et cana ingentis tunc caput ipfa fui. -
Semideumque meo creverunt corpora [ucco,
Materiam tanti fanguinis ille dedit.
Tunc neque fraus nota oft, neque vis, neque fada libids ;
FIac nimii proles [eva calgris erat.
Sit facrum illorum, fit deteftabile nomen,
« Qué primi ferve regna dedere Ee.
Fiine vitiis patefatla via eft, morbifque fecutis
. Se lethi facies exeruere nove, i
Ab, fuge crudeles Animantum Janguine menfas,
Quafque tibiobfonat mors inimica dapes.
Pofcas tandem ager, fi fanus negligis, berbas.
Effe cibus wequeunt 2? at medicamen erunt.

The Golden Age,-with this Provifion bieft,

Such a Grand Sallet made, and was a Feaft.

The Demi-Gods with Bodies large and found,
Commended then the Product of the Ground.

Fraud then, nor Force were known, nor filthy Luft,
Which over-heating and Intemp’rance nurft.

Be their vile Names in Execration held, ©

Who with foul Glute’ny firft the World defil'd :
Parent of Vice, and all Difeafes fince,

With ghaftly Death fprung up alone from thence,

?

ACETARIA

Ah, from fuch reaking, bloody Tables Ay, —
Which’ Death for our Deftruction does fapply.
-In Health, if Sallet-Herbs you can't endure ;

Sick, you'll defire them ; or for Food ot Cure, .

As to the other part of the Centroverfy which concerns us,
aingropa ot, and Occidental Blood- Eaters ; {ome Gtave and Learn-
ed-Men of late feem to fcruple the prefent Ufage, whilft they
fee the Prohibition appearing, and to carry fuch a Face of An-
tiquity, * Scripture, + Councils, || Canons, 9 Fathers , Imperial | Ge ix.

- Conftitutions, and Univerfal Prattice, unlefs it be among us of thefe paar

2 rie || Can. Apoft.
Tracts of Europe, whither, with other Barbarities, that of eating 5°.

the Blood and Anima/ Life of Creatures firft was brought ; and Poe ag
our Mixtures with the Goths, Vandals, and other Spawn of Pagans. 1. Vide ;
Scythians, grown a Cuftom; and fince which I am perfuaded Scone ll
more Blood has been fhed between Chriftians, than there ever inoaih. Nos
was before the Water of the Flood covered this Corner of the Oloris Coma,
World: Not that I impute it only to our eating Blood, but fome- a. once e
times wonder how it hapned that fo ftri@, fo folemn and famous multitudo pa-
a Santtion, not, upon a Ceremonial Account, but (as fome: affirm) cou Mea,
a Moral and Perpetual from Noah, to whom the Conceffion of
eating Filefh was granted, and that of Blood forbidden (nor to
this Day once revok’d ;) and whilft there alfo feems to lie fairer
Proofs than for moft other Controverfies agitated among Chri-
Stians, fhould be fo generally forgotten, and give place to fo
many other impertinent Difputés-and Cavils about other fuper-
ftitious Fopperies, which frequently end ia Blood and cutting of

’ Throats.

As to the Reafon of this Prohibition, its favouring of Cruel-
ty, excepted, (and that by Galen, and other experienc’d Phyficians,
the eating Blood is condemn’d as unwholfom, caufing Indigeftion
and Obftructions) if a pofitive Command of Almighty God were

“not enough, it feems fufficiently intimated; becaufe Blood was

the Vehicle of the Life, and Animal Soul of the Creature : For
what other myfterious Cauie, as haply its being always dedica-
ted to Expiatory Sacrifices, &c. it ig not for us to enquire. -’Tis
faid, that + Fuftin Martyr being asked, why the Chriftians of his tQuatt. &

- time were permitted the eating Fle/h and.not the Blood > readily Refp-ad Or-

anfwer'd, That God might diftinguith them from Beafts, which ‘°2.22*”

eat them both together. “Tis likewile urg’d, that by the Apo- E(u Sangui-

ftolical Synod (when the reft-of the Jewifh Ceremonies and Types "*

were abolifh'd) this Prohibition was mentiofi'd as a thing * nece/. *xv 44: 2°,

Sary, and rank’d with Idolatry, which was not to be local or **

temporary ; but univerfally injoyn'd to converted Strangers

and Profelytes, as well as Jews: Nar cou'd the Scandal of neg-

lecting to obferve it, concern them alone, after fo many Ages as

it was and ftill is in continual Ufe ; and thofe who tranfgrefs'd

fo feverely punith’d, as by an Jmperial Law to be {courg’d to

Blood and Bone : Indeed, fo terrible was the Interdiction, that

Idolatry excepted (which was alfo Moral and Perpetual) nothing
: in

194 A. C E:T A R 1 A
in Scripture feems to be more exprefs. In the mean time, to re-
lieve all other Scruples, it does not, they fay, extend to that
axplGe of, thole few diluted Drops of Extravafated Blood, which
might happen to tinge the Juice and Gravy of the Flefh (which
were indeed to frrain at a Guat) but to thofe who devour the
Venal and Arterial Blood {eparately, and in quantity, as a choice
Ingredient of their luxurious Preparations, and Apician Tables.
But this, and-all-the-reft will, fear, feem but-Oleribus verba fa-
cere, and (as the Proverb goes) be. Labour-in-vain to think of
preaching down Hogs- Puddings, and ufurp the Chair of Rabby-
Bufy : -And therefore what is advanc’d in countenance of the
Antediluvian Diet, we leave to be ventilated by the Learned,
and fuch as CurceZeus, who has borrowd of all the ancient
Fathers, from Zertudian, H&erom, St..Chryfotom, &c. to-the later
Doctors and Divines, Lyra, Toffatus, Dionyfius Carthufianus, Pe-
rerius, amongtt.the Pontificians; of Peter Martyr, Zanchy, Are-
tius, Jac. Capelus, Hiddiger, Cocteius, Bochartus, &c. amongft the
Proteftants ; and inflar omnium, by Salmatius, Grotins, Voffus,
Blundel : In a word, by the Learned of both Perfuafions, fa-

vourable enough to thefe Opinions, Cajetan and Calvin only ex- -

‘cepted, who hold, that.as to Abfinence from Flefb, there was no

pofirive Command or Impofition concerning it; but that the Ufe

of Herbs and Fruit was recommended rather for Temperance

fake, and the Prolongation of Life : Upon: which fcore I am

inclin'd to believe that the ancient Seea7mévres, and other devout

and contemplative Sects, diftinguifh’d themfelves; whofe Courfe

*Philode Vit. of Life we have at large defcribd in * Philo (who liv’d and taught

jon ana much in Gardens,) with others of the abftemious Chriftians ; a-

Lib 13. Cap. mong whom Clemens brings in St. Mark the Evangelift himfelf,

* —~ James our Lord’s Brother, St. Jobs, &c. and with feveral of the

devout Sex, the famous Diaconeffe Olympias, mention’d by Pal-

Jadius, (not to name the reft) who /abftaining -from Fle/h, be-

took themfelves to Herbs and Safets upon the account of Tem-

perance, and the Vertues accompanying it; and concerning which

the incomparable Grotius declares ingenuoufly his Opinion to

be far from cenfuring, not only thofe who forbear the eating

Flefh and Blood, Experimenti Causa, and for Difcipline fake ; bur

fuch as forbear ex Opipione, Cbecaufe it has been the ancient

Cuftom) provided they blam’d none who freely usd their Li-
berty-;-and_I_think_he’s_in_the_right. ‘

But leaving this,Controverfy (é nimium extra oleas) it has often

~ been objected, That Fruit and Plants, and all other things, may,

fince the Beginning, and as the World grows older, have univer-

~ fally become Effete, impair’d and divefted ,of thofe nutritious and

tranfcendent Vertues, they were at firft.endowd withal : But as

_ this is begging the Queftion, and to which we have already fpo-

t Hackwel. ken ;-fo all are not agreed that there is any, the leaft + Decay ix

Apolog. Nature. where equal Induftry and Skill’s apply’d. . “Tis true

indeed, that the: Ordo Foliatorum, Feuilantines Gate Order of

Acetic Nuns) amongt other Mortifications, made Trial upon:

the

| ACETARIA

the Leeves of Plants alone, to. which’ they would needs ¢
fine themfelves; but were not able ee that tin and
meagre Diet: But then it would be enquir’d, whether they had
not firft, and from. their very Childh been fed and brought
up with Flefh, and betver Suftenance, till they enter’d the Cloy-
fier; and what the Vegetables and the Preparation of them
were allow'd by their Inftitution.2 Wherefore this is nothing
to our Modern Ufe.of - Sadets, -or-its-Difparagement: Ia. the
mean time, that we ftill think it not only poffible, bit likely
and with no great Art or Charge (taking Roots and Frait in.
to the Basket) fubftantially to maintain Mens Lives in Health
and Vigour :, For to this, and lefs than this; we have the Suf:

19g

frage of the great * Hippocrates himfelf ; who thinks, ad initio * Hippec. a
etiam bominum (as wellas other Animals) tali vite ufum effe, and vetere Medi*
needed no other Food. Nor is it an inconfiderable Speculation, “°°? ©”

That fince a Flefh is Grafs (notin a Figurative, but Natur
Real Senfe) Man himfelf, who lives on Flep, and I heared
no Earthly Animal whatfoever but fuch as feed on Grafs, is nou-
rifh’d with them ftill; and fo becoming an Jncarnate Herb. and
innocent Canibal, may truly be faid to devour himelf

We have faid nothing of the Lotophagi, and fuch ds (like
St. Joba the Baptift, and other religious 4/cetics) were Feeders ont
the Summities and Tops of Plants: But as divers of thofe. and
others we have mention’d, were'much in times of Streights, Per-
fecutions, and other-Circumftances, which did not in the leatt
snake it a Pretence, exempting them from Labour, and other
Humane Offices, by enfnaring Obligations and Vows, (never to be
ufefut to the Publick, in whatever Exigency) fo I canhot-but take
notice of what a Learned |j Critic, {peaking of Men's neglecting !
plain and effential Duties, under colour of exercifing themfelves
in a more fublime courfe of Piety, and being righteous above
what is commanded (as thofe who feclude themfelves in Jfo-
nafteries) that they manifeftly difcover exceffive Pride, Hatred
of their Neighbour, Impatience of Injuries ; to which add, me-
lancholy Plots and Machinations ; and that he mutt be either ftu-
pid, or infected with the fame Vice himfélf, who admires this
ESeromgsasoSphonea, or thinks they were for that Canfe the more
pleafing to. God. This being fo, what may we then think of fuch
Armies of Hermits, Monks, and Friars, who pretending to juftify
a miftaken Zeal and meritorious Abftinence ; not_only by—a-pecu-
liar Diet and Diftin@tion of Meats (which God without DiftinG@ion
has made the moderate Ufe of common and * indifferent amonptt «
Chriftians ) but by other fordid Ufages, and unneceflary Hard-
fhips, wilfully prejudice their Health and Conftitution2 and
through a fingular manner of living, dark and Satarmine; whiltt
they would feem to abdicate and forfake the World (in imi-
tation, as they pretend, of the Ancient Eremites) take care to
fettle, and build their warm and ftately Nefts in the moft populous
Cities, and Places of Refort; ambitious, doubtlefs, of the Péo-
ples Veneration and Opinion of an extraordinary Sandtity; arid

therefore

L. C. Anhot.
inColoff. s. z:

2 Tim. iv. 3:

4

MCETUARIA
therefore Aying the Defarts, where there'is indeed fio ufe of them} |
and flocking to the Zowns and Cities where there is lefs, indeed
none at all; and therefore no marvel that the Emperor Valens
tinian banifh’d them the Cities, and Conftastine Copronymus find-

‘ing them feditious,’oblig’d them to marry; to leave their Cells,‘

and live as did others. For of thefe, fome there .ate who feldom ’
fpeak, and therefore edify none; fleep little, and lie hard, are
clad_naftily, and_eat_meanly: (and .oftentimes*that which is—un-
wholfom) and therefore benefit none : Not becaufe they might
not, both for their own, and the Good of ‘others, and the Pib-
t This with lick; but becanfe they will not ; Cuftom and a prodigious * Sloth
roeir predigi- accompanying it; which renders it fo far from Penance, and the
See Mab. des Mortification pretended, that they know not how to live, or {pend
Erudes Mo- their Time otherwife. This, as I have often confider’d, fo was I
a * glad to find it juftly perftring’d, and taken notice of by a
t Dr. Lifters + Learned Perfon, amongft others of his ufeful Remarks A-

Journey to Pa-
ris, See L’ Apo- broad.

caypsdeMeli- ‘ Thefe, fays he, willingly pe the innocent Comforts

fon, ow Rew © of Life, plainly fhew it to proceed more from a chagrin and

lation aes My-¢ ‘ —.

fieres Cowbi- - MOrofe Humour, than from any true and ferious Principle of

tiquese ‘ found Religion ; which teaches Men to be. ufeful in their Gene-
‘ rations, fociable and communicative, unaffected, and by no
* means fingular and fantaftic in Garb and Habit, as are thefe
‘ Cforfooth) Fathers (as they affect to be call’d) {pending their
Days in idle and fruitlefs Forms, and tedious Repetitions ; and
thereby thinking to merit the Reward of thofe Ancient and
truly Pious So/itaries, who, God knows, were-dtiven from their
Countries and Repofe, by the Incurfions of. barbarous Nations,
(whilft thefe have no fuch Caufe) and compell’d to Aufterities,
not of their own chufing and making, but the Publick Calami-
ty; and to /abour with their Hands tor their own, and others,
neceflary Support, as well as with their Prayers and holy~Lives,
Examples to all the World: And fome of thefe indeed (befides
the Solitaries of the Thebaid, who wrought for abundance of
poor Chriftians, fick, and in Captivity) I might bring in, as
fuch who deferve to have their Names prefervd; not for their
rigorous Fare, and uncouth Difguifes; but for teaching that the
Grace of Temperance and other Vertues, confifted in a chearful,
innocent, and profitable Converfation; fo far from giving the
leaft Incouragement to thofe Millions of idle Lubbers, {warming
about, and diffus’d over the Super/titious Parts of Chriffendom ;
that. there are hardly left Men enough to plow, fow, and culti-
tivate the Countries (where thofe Vermine nurture themfelves,
and live upon the Labour of others) where this Devaftation con-
tinues and prevails.

And now to recapitulate what other Prerogatives the Hor-

tulan Provifion has been celebrated for, befides its Antiquity,
Health and: Longevity of the Antediluvians ; that Temperance,
Frugality, Leifure, Eafe, and innumerable other heer” and

Advan-

at

ACETARIA 197 |

Advantages, which accompany it, are no lefs attributable to * Plantarum

it. Let.us hear cur excellent Botanif?, * Mr. Ray. one a

omni vite parte occurrit, fine illis laura, fine iflis:commodé non vivitur, ac nec vivitur omnind,

* Quaecunque ad vitum neceflaria funt, quecunque ad delicias faciunt, 2 locupletiffimo fuo penu abunde

fubminiftrant : Quantd ex eis menfa innocentior, mundior, falubrior, guam ex animalium cede &
Laniena! Homo certé naturi_ animal carnivorum non elt ; nullis ad predam & rapinam armis inftru- -
ctum; non dentibus exertis & ferratis, non unguibus ‘aduncis: Manus ad fruétus colligendos dentes

ad mandendos .comparati ; nec Jegimus ei ante ‘diluvium carnes ad efum conceflas, &c. Raii Hif
Plant. lib. 1. cap. 24. | de ERS ‘ 2

' * The Ufe of Plants (fays he) is all our Life long of that uni-
verfal Importance and Concern, that we can neither live nor
fubfift in any Plenty with Decency or Conveniency, or be faid
to live indeed at all without them : Whatfoever Food is nece(-
fary to fuftain us, whatfoever contributes to delight and refre(h -
us, are fupply’d and brought forth out of that plentiful and abun-
dant Store: And ah; how much more innocent, fweet, and
healthful, is 2.Table cover’d with thefe, than with all the
recking Fleth of butcher’d and flaughter’d Animals ! Certainly
Man by .Nature was never made to be a Carnivorous Creature ;
nor is he arm’d at all for Prey and Rapine, with gap’d and pointed
Teeth, and crooked Claws, fharpned to rend and tear: But
with gentle Hands to gather’ Fruic and Vegetables, and with
* Teeth to chew and eat them: Nor do we fo much as read the

* Ufe of Flefh-for Food, was at all.permitted him, till after the -

Ce en Se ee eo oo

«

‘> © Univerfal Deluge, &c. ;

To thisymight we add that tranfporting Confideration, ‘be-
coming both our Veneration and Admiration of the infinitely
wife and glorious Author of Nature, who has given to Plants
fuch aftonifhing Properties; fuch fiery Heat in fome to warm and
cherifh, fuch Coolne/s in others to temper and ‘refrefh, fuch pin-
guid Juice to nourifh and feed the Body, fuch quickning Acids
to compel the Appetite, and grateful Vehicles to court the Obe-
dience of the Palate, fuch Vigour to renew and fupport our
natural Strength, fuch ravifhing Flavour and Perfumes to recre-
ate and delight us.;In fhort, fuch /pirituous and afive Force to
animate and revive every Faculty and Part, to all the kinds of
Human, and, 1 had‘almoft faid, Heavenly Capacity too. What
fhall we add more? Our..Gardens prefent us with them all;

‘and whilft the Shambles are cover’d with Gore and Stench, our

Sallets {cape the Infults of the Summer F/y, purifie and warm
the Blood againft Winter Rage : Nor wants there Variety in
more abundance than any of the former Ages could fhew.

Survey we their Bills of Fare, and Numbers of Courfes ferv'd
up by Athenmeus, drefs'd with gll the Garnifh of Nicander and
other Grecian Wits : What has the Roman Grand Sallet worth the
naming? Parat Convivium: The Guefts are nam’d indeed, and
we are told, .

*Varias, quas babet hortus opes ? * Mart. lib. x.
Epig. 44
How richly the Garden’s ftor’d !

Cececc . In

ACETARIA

ea Sl
fe quibus eff Laétuca Jedens, & tonfile porrum,
‘Nec deeft rudtatrix Mentha, nec. herba falax, c.

A Goodly Sallet !
Lettuce, Leeks, Mint, Rocket, Colewort-Tops with Oyé and Eggs,

and fuch an Hotch-Pot following (as the Cook in Plautus would °

detervedly laugh at.) But how infinitely out-done in this Age
of ours, by the Variety of fo many rare Edules unknown to
the Ancients, that there’s no room for the Comparifon. And,
for Magnificence, let the Sa/let drefs’'d by the Lady for an Enter-
tainment made by Jacobus Cathus (defcrib’d by the Poet * Bar-
leus) thew ; not at all yet out doing what we every Day almoft
“find at our Lord Mayor’s Table, and other great Perfons, Lovers
“of the Gardens ; that fort of elegant Cookery being capable of

fuch wonderful Variety, tho’ not altogether wanting of old, if —

Athen.Deip.that be true which is related to us of |] Nicomedes a certain King
A of Bithynia, whofe Cook made him a Pilchard (a.Fith he exceed-
ingly long’d for) of a well diflembl’d Zurnip, carv’d in its Shape,
and drefs'd with Oy/, Salt, and Pepper, that fo decciv'd, and yer
‘ pleasd the Prince, that he commended it for the beft Fith he
- had ever eaten, ,Sucha wtgicys, Cibaria [cite apparata, Xenophoy
fays, purchas’d the Name of copisms, toa skilful Sal/et-Drefer. Nor
does all this exceed what every induftrious Gard'ver may inno-
cently enjoy, as well as the greateft Potentate on Earth.

~ Vitellius’s Zable, to which every Day
AL Countries did a conftant Tribute pay,
Could nothing more delicious afford
Fan Nature’s Liberality,
Felp'd with a little Art and Induftry,
Allows the meaneft Gardner's Board.
‘The wanton Tafte no Fifh or Fowl can chufé,
For which the Grape or Melon fhe would {ofe.
Tho’ all th Inbabitants of Sea and Air -
C Be lifted in the Glutton’s Bill of Fare,
Sorta Wane, Tet fill the Sallet.and the Fruit we fee
6 ~ Plac'd the third Story bigh in all her Luxury.

* Hence in Mae’
crobius Sat. a : ;
lib. vii. c.s. So the {weet + Poet, -whom_I-can-never_part-with for-his Lovete

we find Eupo- gp; We. :
lis dhe Comai_this delicious Toil, and the Honour he has done me.

aninhis ges Verily, the infinite Plenty and Abundance with which the be+
Cae atin nign and bountiful Author of Nature has ftor’d the whole Ter-
the Vartan reftrial World, more with P/ants and Vegetables than with any
their Food, Boo © ovifion whatfoever ; and the Variety not only equal, but
gi by far exceeding the Pleafure and Delight of Tafle (above all the
zit, eagms, Art of the Kitchin, that ever * Apicius knew) feems loudly to
bare Nk call, and kindly invite, all her living Inhabitants (none excepted)
4 Banque: of Who are of gentle: Nature, and moft ufeful to the fame Hof-
innumerable pitable and Common-Board, which firft fhe furnifhed with

fa
si Plants

. Murders and Rapine rifl’d the World, to

7

ACETAR1 4. | 199

~~ Plaats and Fruit, as to their natural and genuine Pafiure; nay,
~—~and. of the moft wild and favage too, ab origine: As in Para-

dife, where, as the Evangelical * Prophet adumbrating the fu- * Ef. lav. 2¢
ture Glory of the Catholick Church, (of which that happy Gar-
den was the Anti-type) the Wolf and the Lamb, the angry and

furious Lion, fhould eat Grafs and Herbs together with the Ox.

But after all, /atet anguis in herba, there’s a Snake in the Grafs ;
Luxury and Excefs in our moft-innocent ‘Fruitions: There was
a Time indeed when the Garden furnifh’d Entertainments for the
moft renown’d Heroes, virtuous and excellent Perfons; till the-
Blood-thirfty and Ambitious, over-running the Nations, by

: f 5 * Bina tunc jugera populo Romano fatis
tranfplant its Luxury to its new Milftrefs, erat nullique majorem modum attribuir,

- quo fervos pauloantre Principis Neronis, con-
Rome. Thofe whom heretofore t two Acres temptis hujus fpatii Viridariis, pifcinas ju-
of Land would have fatisfy d, and plenti- yat habere majeres, gratimque, fi non ali-

fully maintain’d ; had afterwards their very quem & culinas. Phn. Hift. Nac. lib. xvii §
. : 6 2
Kitchins almoft as Jarge as their firft Ter-

itor , : ‘ p Fay. || Inter .
ritories : Nor was that enough : Entire || Fores and Parks, War bapa

reas and Fifh-Ponds, and ample Lakes, to furnith their Tables, per omnia

fo as Men could not live by one another without Oppretlion : Querunt.juy
Nay, and to thew how the beft and moft innocent things may be «Cif, 25:0,

perverted ; they chang’d thofe frugal and imemptas Dapes of their Lid. 7.Ep.26

Anceftors to that Height and Profufion ; that we read of * Edicts Scab ta
and Sumptuary Laws, enacted to reftrain even the Pride and EX: shat had al.
cefs of Sallets. Taftes (fays Pliny) were mingl’d, and one is ts, him
forc’d to pleafe and gratify another’: Nay, Heaven and Earth ; ye com:

are blended together ; for one kind of Fruit Zdéa is fummon'd ; in veneficiis
for another, Egypt ; Crete, Cyrene, and every Country in its Meum
turn; nor abftain Men from ¢ Poéfon it felf, till they devour all. devoret: Piz.

This is fufficiently evident in Herbarum Natura, the Tribe of Sal. nius hoc fiee

in Herbarum:

let-Herbs, But fo it wasnot when the Peafe-Field fpread a Ta- Natura. pin

ble for the: Conquerors of the World, and their Grounds were-#. a lib xv
cultivated Vomere laureato, © triumphali .aratore :.. The greateft ys .09

Princes took the Spade and the Plough-Staff in the fame Hand tar of

“9° . L; & . .
they held the Scepter ; and the Nobleft || Families thought ie reenomg
Difhonour, to derive their Names from Plants and Sallet-Herbs + Lytimachia.
They arriv’d, I fay, to that pitch of ingrofling all that was but ng pola
green, and ceud be varyd by the Cook (//eu quam prediga Pio, Bre. i
ventris') that, as Pliny tells us (non fine pudore, not without Babis, Cicere,

° : ente, FHis,
blufhing)}—a—poor-Man-could-hardly-find a Thiftle_to_drefs for bene fiends
his Supper; or what his hungry * 4/3 would not touch, for diai, rin.
fear of . pricking his Lips. ‘ _, * Mirum effet
non licere pecori Carduis vefci, non licet plebei, &c. And in another Place, Quoniam poments quo-
que terrarum in ganeam vertimus, etiam que refugiunt quadrupedes confciz, Plin. Hift. Nat: lib. xiz

cap. 8.

Verily, the Luxury of the Eaft ruin‘d the greateft Monarchies ;
firft, the Perfian, then the Grecian, and afterwards Rome her felt ;
nor-are we of the Wef inexcufable, whilft we fo ftudioully
mangle and’ difguife the plain and wholfom Diet of our Fore-

~ fathers ; that ‘tis almoft impoffible to tell by the Tafte what it is

' @cece 2 we

ACETARIA

we eat : Add to this the Quelques-chofes, and other Cupedig, that

debauch the natural Appetite : By what Steps this wanton Exube-
: _, Trance ruin’d that once glorious Empire, fee elegantly defcrib’d
(i in Old * Gratius the Faliftian, deploring his own Age, compar’d
See concerning with the former : ss ta:
this Exces.

Macr. Sat. ha. : : :
é. ak Sig O quantum, & quoties decoris fruftrata paterni !

At qualis noftris, quam fimplex menfa Camillis !
Qui tibi cultus erat poft, tot Serrane triumphos ?
Ergo illi ex habitu, virtutifque indole prifca,
Impofuere orbi Romam caput :——.—~

Neighb’ring Exceffes being made thine own,

How art thou fall’n fram thine old Renown !

But our Camilli did but plainly fare,

No Port did oft triumphant Serran bear :
Therefore fuch Hardfhip, and their Heart fo great,
Gave Romé to be the World’s Imperial Seat,

But as thefe were the Senfual and Voluptuous, who abus’d
their Plenty, {pent their Fortunes and fhortned ‘their Lives by
their Debauches ; fo never-did they tafte the Delicacies, and true
Satisfaction of a fober Repaft, and the infinite Conveniences of

' *Horti maximé placebant, quia non what a well-ftor'd Garden affords 3 fo ele-
* egerent igni, parceréntque-ligno, expe- gantly defcrib’d by the Naturalift, as cofting
dica res) & parata femper, unde 4etaris neither Fuel nor Fite to boil, Pains or time
appellantur, facilia concoqui, nec onera- d dita &
tura fenfum cibo, & que minimé accen- to gather and prepare, Res expedita & pa-
pens prs o Phin. p. Bes vata femper : All was fo near at hand, rea-
ib. xix. ¢ 4. And of this exceeding Fru- : > . °
gality pe. Romans, til after the Mi- dily drefs d, and of fo eafy Digeftion, as
thridatic War, fee Atheneus Deip. lib. 6. neither to offend the Brain, or dull the Senfes ;
Be oc and in the greateft Dearth of Corn, a little

Bread fuffic’d. In all Events,

tHorat. Ser, + Panis ematur, Olus, Vini Sextarius; adde,
ht. Sats. Lueis humana fibi doleat natura negatis,

t @ Nequem Bread, Wine, and wholfom Sallet you may buy,
“eft in dona ~ What Nature adds befides is Luxury.

matrem fami-

tur (ubi in-
diligens effet
hortus.

tur aque.
Caulibus
& pomis &
aperto vive:
ret horto.

ACETARIA 201

Un-bloody Shambles (as Pliny calls them ) yielded the + Ro-+ Atcerum
man Stat@ a more confiderable Cuftom (when there was little ne
more'than honeft Cabbage and Worts.) than almoft any thing be- 07 caer
fides brought to Market. , @ Tribute of ~~
_ They fpent not then fo’ much precious Time as afterwards they gues ‘saed
did, gorging themfelves with Fie/h and Fifh, fo as hardly able to
rife, without reeking and reeling from Table.
¢ ——~ ——Vides ut pallidus omnis at Hor. Sat. 2,
Cena defurgat dubia? guin corpus onuftum oe
th ae ; . ino fuftinec
Heflernis*vitiis animum Moque pregravat una, palpebras,

Atque affigit humo divine particulam aure. , eunti in coa-
q fig P - = filium, &c.

See but how pale they look, how wretchedly Ton
With Yefterday’s Surcharge difturb’d they be ! de Lag. Fao.
Nor Body only fuff'ring, but the Mind, Mac. Sat.1. 2.

That nobler Part, dull’d and deprefs’d we find. fae

Drowfy/and unapt for Bufinefs, and other nobler Parts of Life.
Time was before Men in thofe golden Days: Their Spirits
were~brisk and lively.

————

_ Udi ditto citius curata fopori
Membra dedit, Vegetus pra{cripta ad munera Surgit.

With fhorter, but much fweeter Sleep, content,
Vigorous and frefh, about their Bufinefs went.

And Men had their Wits about them ; their Appetites were na-
tural, their Sleep molli {ub arbore, found, {weet, and kindly : That
excellent Emperor 7acitus being us’d to fay of Lettuce, that he
did fomnum fe mercari when he eat of them, and call’d it a fum-
ptuous Feaft, with a Sal/et anda fingle Pullet, which was ufually
— Flefh-Meat that fober Prince eat of ; whilft Maximinus
(a’profefs'd Enemy to Saélet) is reported to have fcarce been {a-
tisfy’d with Sixty Pounds of Fiefb, and Drink proportionable.
There was then alfo far lefS expenfive Grandeur, but far more
true State ; when Confuls, great Statefmen (and fuch as atchiev’d
the moft renown’d Actions fup’din their Gardens ; not under coftly,
gilded, and in-laid Roofs, but the {preading Platan; and drank
of the Chryftat Brook, and by Temperance, and healthy Fruga-
lity, maintain’d the “Glory of Sallets, Ab, quanto innocentiore
victu ! with what Content and Satisfa@tion ! Nor, as we faid,
wanted there Variety ; for fo in the moft blifsful Place, and inno-
cent State of Nature, fee how the firft Emprefs of the World

regales her Celeftial Guett :

* With fav'ry Fruit of Tafte to pleafe * Milton's _
True Appetite, and brings patel Lvs
Whatever Earth’s all-bearing Mother yields, —
———Fruit of all kinds, in Coat

- Rough

MOB ARDA = .
Rough, or fmooth-Rind, or bearded Husk, or Shell. . sare ,
Heaps with unfparing Hand: For Drink the Grape . sly ig Roget Es
She crujbes, eehtatice Mouft and Meathes | 2 rag ;
From many a,Berry, and from {weet Kernel preft, P D I 4
She temper’d dulcid Creams. ~~ ©

Then for the Board. ; Me ape .

Ne | “HO it was far from our firft Intention to charge

er aoe Rais'd of a graffy Turf this {malt Volume and Difcourfe concerning Crude Sal-
The Table was, and Moffy Seats had round ; lets, with any of the following Receits: Yet havin

And on the ample Square from fide to fide " fince received them from an Experienc'd Houfe-wife; ps

All Autumn pil'd : Ab Innocence, : that they may poffibly be ufeful to correét, preferve and improve

Deferving Paradife ! our Acetaria, we have allow'd them Place as an Appendant Va-

riety upon Occafion: Nor account we it the lea{t Difhonour to

our former Treatife, that we kindly entertain’d them: firice

(befides divers Learned Phyficians, and fuch as have ex profeffo

* At vetus illa etas cui fecimus aurea Thus the Afortulan Provifiony of the * Gol-
cope ‘ den Age fitted all Places, Times, and Perfons ;>

Fruétibus arboreis, & quas humus edu- r
cat herbis and when Man is reftor’d to that State : Lear
written de re Cibaria) we have the Examples of many other

Fo tunata fait, ———~ Mer. xv. again, it will be as it was in the Beginning. - z f
But now after all (and for Clofe of all) let none_ yet. ima- | Noble and Iduftrious Perfons, both among the Ancient and ‘Plin Ache:
Modern. thes — Ma-
crobius,

gine, that. whilft we juftify our prefent Subject thro’ all the
Bacon, Boyle,

Topics of Panegyric, we would, in Favour of the Sal/et, drefs'd - : eae ; .
ie all its Corin aad Advantage, turn Mankind to Grafs again ; rcs, rte Clear it of the Leaves, and cut the Bottoms in Digby, &
which were ungratefully to negleéthe Bounty of Heaven, as well eh A iS = of Quarters ; then fry them in frefh Butter,
as his Health and Comfort: But by thefe noble Inftances and Ex- t vt. ‘col nl oo pays crifp, and the Slices tender ;-and- fo
“ amples, reproach the Luxury of the prefent Age; by fhewing wane ss od at He Fig or Butter. :
? the infinite Blefling and Effeéts of Temperance, and the Ver- ' Winter gin 2 Oa, 7 the Bottoms preferv'd all the
ocnesions- tyes accompanying it ; with how little Nature, and a * civil Appe- =e SELATER, Pu 8455 14M
"tite may be happy, contented with moderate Things, and withia Aheokos ‘
a little compais, referving the reft to the nobler Parts of -Life. Ap coe Maire

And thus of Old, Masts,
Hoc erat in votis, modus agri.non ita magnus, Sc. Broom.

He that was poflefs'd of ‘a, little Spot of Ground, and well-culti- an 4

| TAB. II. vated Garden, with other moderate Circumftances, had |] Afere-
dium. All that a modeft Man could well defire. Then, Carrot, See Pudding.

* Cowley, PI. * Felix, quem mifera procul ambitione remotum, Champignon, See Mufbrom.

oe Parvus ager placide, parvus & bortus, alit.
Prebet ager quicquid frugi natura requirit, 2. Cheffaut. Roafted under the Embers, .or dry-fry’d, tilf they.
Hortus haber quicquid luxuriofa petit, fhell, and quit their Husks, may be flit ; the Juice of Orange
Cetera follicita {peciofa incommoda vita fqueezed on a lump of hard Sugar diffolv'd; to which add fome

—Permittit Stultis querere, babere malts. Claret-Wine.

> See Pickle.

J

Happy. the Man, whom from Ambition freed, Cuain Fina.

. Alittle Garden, little Field does feed.
Cucumber, .

The Field gives frugal Nature what’s requir'd ;
The Gardeh, what's luxurioufly defir’d : a her, > See Pickle,

The fpecious Evils of an anxious Life,
He leaves to Fools to be their endlefs Strife. . paces July: Flowers, }

O fortunatos nimium Lona fi fua norint - “"Berbs, See Pudding and. Tart.
“Aorticolas! —— Limon, See Pickle,

APPENDIX.

3. Mufbrom. Chufe the fmall, firm, and white Buttons, growing
upon fweet Paflure;Grounds, neither under, or about any Trees :

Strip off the upper Skin, and pare‘away all the black {pungy Bot- -—~_

_ tom part; then flice them in Quarters, and caft them in Water
a while to cleanfe: Then boil them in frefh Water, and a little
fweet Butter; (fome boil them a quarter of an Hour firfl) and
then ‘taking them out, dry them in a Cloth, prefling out the Wa-
ter, and, whilft hot, add the Butter; and then boiling a full
Hour (to exhauft the Malignity) thift them in another clean Wa-
ter, with Butter, as before, till they become fufficiently tender.
Then being taken out, pour ipon them as much ftrong Mutton
(or other) Broth as will cover them, with fix Spoonfuls of
White-Wine, twelve Cloves, as many Pepper-Corns, four finall
young Onions, half an Handful of Par/ley bound up with two or
three Sprigs of Thyme, an Anchovy, Oy/ters raw or pick!'d; a little
Salt, Sweet-Butter ; and fo let them fiew. See Acetar. p. 196.

‘ E
Another.

Prepar’d, and cleans’d as above, and caft into Fountain-Water,
to preferve them from growing black, boil them in frefh Water
and Salt; and whilft-on the Fire, caft in the Mu/bréms, letting
them boil till they become tender: Then ftew them leifurely be-
tween two Difhes (the Water being drained from them) in a third
Part of White-Wine and Butter, a fmall bundle of Sweet-Herbs
at difcretion. To thefe add Brotli as before, with Cloves, Mace,
Nutmeg, Anchovies. (one is tufficient) Oyfters, &c. a {mall Onion,
i with the green Stem chop’d fmall; and laftly, fome Mutton-
Gravy, rubbing the Dith gently with a Clove of Garlick, or fome
Roccombo Seeds in its ftead. Some beat the Yolk of a frefh Egg
with Vinegar and Butter, and a little Pepper.

In France fome (more compendioufly being peel’d and prepar’d)
~ caft them into a Pipkin, where, with the Sweet-Herbs, Spice, and
an Onion, they ftew them in their own Juice, without any other
Water or Liquor at all ; and then taking out the Herbs and Onion,
thicken it witha little Butter, and fo eat them.

In Poiverade.

The large Mufbroms well cleans'd, &c. being cut into Quar-
ters, and ftrew'd with Pepper and Salt, are broil’d on the Grid-Iron,
and eaten with Frefh-Butter. "

: /

In Powder.

Being frefh gather’d, cleans’d, Sc. and cut in Pieces, flew -
them in Water and Salt; and being taken forth, dry them witha .

Cloth: Then putting them into an Earth-Glaz’d Pot, fet them in-
to the Oven after the Bread is drawa’: ‘Repeat this till they are
a a perfectly

APPENDIX.

perfectly dry; and referve them in Papers, to crumble into what
Sauce you pleafe. For the reft, See Pickle,

4. Muftard. Procure the beft and weightieft Seed : Catt it into
Water two or three times, till no more of the Husk arife : Then
taking out the found (which will fink to the bottom) rub it very
dry in warm coarfe Cloths, thewing it alfo a little to the Fire ina
Dith or Pan. Then ftamp it as {mall as to pafs thro’ a fine Tiffany
Sieve : Then flice fome Horfe-Radifh, and lay it to foak in ftron
Vinegar, with a {mall lump of hard Sugar (which fome leave out
to temper the Flower with, being drained from the Radifh, and
fo pot it all in a glaz’d Mug, with an Onion, and keep it well
ftop’d with a Cork upon a Bladder, which is the more cleanly :
But this Receit is improv’d, if, inftead of Vinegar, Water only,
or the Broth of powder'd Beef, be made ule of. And to fome of
this Mufard adding Verjuice, Sugar, Claret-Wine, and Juice of

Limon, you have an excellent Sauce to any fort of Fleth or

Fifh. .

Note, That a Pint of good Seed is enough to make at one
time;-and to keep frefh a competent while, What part of it does
not pafs the Sarfe,-may- beaten again; and you may referve
the Flower in a well clos’d Glafs, and make frefh Muftard when
you pleafe. See Acetaria, p. 162, 176.

Naflurtium, Vide Pickle.
“Orange, See Limon in Pickle.

5. Parfnip. Take the large Roots, boil them,-and ftrip the
Skin : Then flit them long-ways into pretty thin Slices ; Flower
and fry them in Frefh-Butter till they look brown. The Sauce
is other Sweet-Butter melted. Some ftrow Sugar and Cinamon
upon them. Thus you may accommodate other Roots.

There is made a Math or Pomate of this Root, being boil’d
very tender, with a little frefh Cream; and being heated again,
put to it fome Butter, a little Sugar and Juice of Limon; dith
it upon Sippets ; fometimes a few Corinths are added.

Penny-royal, See Pudding.
Sa CEES.
6. Artichoaks, See Acetaria, p. 146. .

7. Afben-keys, Gather them young, and boil them in three or

' four Waters to extract the bitternefs; and when they feel tender,

prepare a Syrup of fharp White-wine Vinegar, Sugar, and a lit-
tle Water. Then boil them on a very quick Fire, and they will
become of a greenColour, fit to be potted fo foon as cold.

es —-Ddddd 8. A{para-"

206 APPENDIX:
8. Afparagus. Break off the hard Ends, and put them in
White-wine Vinegar, and Salt, well covered with it ; and fo let
them remain for Six Weeks : Then taking them out, boil the Li-
quor or Pickl and fcum it carefully. If need be, renew the
Vinegar. and Salt and when ’tis cold, pot them up again. Thus
“may one keep them the whole Year.

APPENDIX | bi,

. 14. Cucumbers: Take the Gorkems, or fmaller Cucumbers 3 put Note, Ther

them into Rape-Pinegar, and boil, and cover them fo clofe, as {# Cucum-

: bers and ¢
none of’ the Vapour may iflue forth ; and alfo let them ftand till Gorkeme vd

the next Day, or longer: Then boil them in frefh White-wine 7 ‘4 4eil'd '

i j bigs : ‘th
Vinegar, with large Mace, Nutmeg,/Ginger, White Pepper, and pont ang

_B Take fuch as are frefh, young, and approaching their a little Salt, (according to difcretion) firaining the former Li- ered fealding
9. Beans. a y -

full growth. Put them into a ftrong Brine of White-wine Vinegar
and Salt able to bear an Egg. Cover them very clofe, and fo will
they be preferved Twelve Months: But a Month before you
ufe them, take out what Quantity you think fafficient for your
{pending a Quarter of a Year, (for fo long the fecond Pickle will
keep them found) and boil them in a Skillet of frefh Water, tll
they begin to look green, as they foon will do. Then placing
them one by one (to drain upon a clean courfe Napkin) range
them row by row in a Jarr, and cover them with Vinegar, and
what Spice you pleafe ; fome Weight beigg laid upon them to
keep them under the Pickle. Thus you’may preferve French..
Beans, Htarico’s, &c. the whole Year about.

10. Broom-Buds and Pods. Make a ftrong Pickle, as above ;

‘ftir it very well, till the Sale be quite diffoly’d, clearing off the

Dregs and Scum. ‘The next Day pour it from the bottom; and

having rubbed the Budsdry, pot them up inaPickle-Glafs, which .

fhould be frequently fhaken, till they fink under it, and keep it
well ftop’d and cover’d.
Thus may you pickle any other Buds. Or as follows:

ir. Of Elder. Take the largeft Buds, and boil them in a Skil-
let with Salt and Water, fufficient only to feald them ; and fo
(being taken off the Fire) let them remain cover’d till green ;
and then pot them with Vinegar and Salt, which has had one
Boil up to cleanfe it.

12, Caulyflowers. Boil them till they arin Pieces : Then with
fome of the Stalk, and worft of the Flower, boil it in a part of the
Liquor till pretty ftrong : Then being taken off, ftrain it; and
when fettled, clear it from the bottom. Then with Did, grofs
Pepper, —a_pretty—Quantity_of Salt, _when—cold,add as-much- Vie
negar as will make it fharp, and. pour all upon the Caulyflower ;
and fo as to keep them from touching one another ; ‘which is pre-
vented by putting Paper clofe to them.

Cornelians are pickl'd like O/ives.

13. Cowflips. Pick’d very clean ;~to each_Pound—of Flowers
allow about one Pourd of Loaf-Sugar, and-one Pint of White-
wine Vinegar, which boil toa Syrup, and cover it {calding-hot.
Thus you may pickle Clove-Fuly- Flowers, Elder, and other Flowers,
which being eaten alone, make a very agreeable Salletine.

14. Cucum-

- quor from the Cucumbers ;

‘gers.

mouth‘d Glafs, laying a little Dill and Fennel between each rank;
and peti a with the frefh fcalding-hot Pickle, keep all clofe,
and repeat it daily, till you find them fufficiently green.

In the fame fort Cucumbers of the largett fize, being peel’d and
Cut into thin Slices, are very delicate.

+
Another.

Wiping them clean, put them ‘into a very ftrong Brine of
Water and Salt, to foak two or three Hours, or longer, if you
fee caufe : Then range them in the Jarr or Barellet with Herbs
and Spice as ufual; and cover them with hot Liquor, made of
two Parts Beer-Vinegar, and one of White-wine Vinegar: Letall ~
be very well clos’d. A Fortnight after fcald the Pickle again, and...
repeat it as above: Thus they will keep longer, and from being
fo foon fharp, eat crimp, and well tafted, tho’ not altogether {fo
green. You may add a Walnut-Leaf, Hyfop, Coftmary, &c.
and as fome do, ftrow on them a little Powder of Roch-Allom,

bt makes them firm and eatable within a Month or Six Weeks
after. ef

Mango of Cucumbers,.

Take the biggeft Cucumbers -(and most of the Mango fize) that
look green: Open them on the Top or Side; and fcooping
out the Seeds, fupply their Place with a {mall Clove of Garlick,
or fome Roccombo-Seeds, Then’ put them into an Earthen-glaz'd
Jarr, or wide-mouth’d Glafs, with as much White-wine Vinegar
as will cover them. Boil them in the Vinegar with Pepper, Cloves, ~
Mace, &c. and when off the Fire, as much Salt as will make a
gentle Brine; and fo pour all boiling-hot on the Cucumbers, Co-
vering them ‘clofe till the next Day. Then put them’ with a
little Dill and Pickle into.a large Skillet ; and giving them a Boil
or two, return them into the Veffel again : And when all is cold,
add a good Spoonful of the beft Mu/tard, keeping it from the
Air; and-fo-have you an excellent Mango. When you have oc-
cafion to-take any out, make ufe of a Spoon, and not your Fin-

+
y

Elder, See Buds.
Flowers, See Cowflips, and for other Flowers.-

Dddddz.

‘15. Limon. —

eat
and fo pkice them ina Jarr, or wide- “ ”™

APPEND Ix

_ 15. Limon. Take Slices of the thick Riad Limon, boil and
fhift. them in feveral Waters, till they are pretty tender: Then
drain and wipe them dry witha clean Cloth?-and make a Pickle
with a little White-wine Vinegar, one Part to two of fair Wa-
ter, and 4 little Sugar, carefully fcum'd. When all is cold, pour
it on the peel’d Rind, and cover it all clofe in a convenient Glafs
Jarr. Some make a Syrup of Vinegar, White-wine, and Sugar,
not too thick, and pour it on hot.

_ 16, Melon. The abortive and after-Fruit of Melons being pickl’d
as Cucumber, make an excellent Sallet. |

17. Mufbrom. Take a Quart of the beft White-wine Vinegar;
as,much of White-wine, Cloves, Mace, Nutmé a pretty Quan-
tity, beaten together: Let the Spice boil therein to’ the Con-
fumption of.half; then taken off, and being cold, pour the Li-
quor on the Mufbroms; but leave out the boiled Spice, and catft

in of-the fame fort of Spice whole, the Nutmeg only flit in

Quarters, with fome Limon-Peel, Whité-Pepper; and, if you
pleafe, a whole raw Onion, which take ‘out again when it begins
to perith,

Another.

The Mufbroms pecl'd, Gc. throw them into Water, and then
into a Sauce-Pan, with fome long Pepper, Cloves, Mace, a quar-
ter’'d Nutmeg, with an Onion, Shallot, or Roccombo-Seed, and
alittle Salt. Let them all boil a Quarter of an Hour on a very
quick Fire : Then-take out, and cold, with a pretty quantity of
the former Spice, boil them in fome White-wine ; which (being
- cold) caft upon the Mu/broms, and fill up the Pot with the beft

White-wine, a Bay-Leaf or two, and an Handful of Salt : Then -

cover them with the Liquor; and if for long keeping, pour
Sallet-Oy! over all, tho’ they will be prefervd a Year with-
out it.

They are fometimes boil’d in Salt and Water, with fome Milk,
and laying them in the Cullender to drain, till cold; and wip'd

-dry,—caft-them-into the Pickle with the White-wine, Vinegar

and Salt, grated Nutmeg, Ginger bruifed, Cloves, Mace, White-
Pepper, /and Limon-Peel ; pour the Liquor on them cold without

: eho
into freth Vinegar, and let them fo remain as lopg as before. Re-

peat this a third time, and barrel them up with Vinegar and
a little Salt.

Orange, See Limon, ie ‘
_ 20. Potato. The fmall green Fruit (when about the fize of the
wild Cherry) being pickl’d, is an agreeable Sallet. But the Root
being roafted under the. Embers, or otherwife, open'd with a
Knife, the Pulp is butter'd in the Skin, of which it will take
up a good quantity, and is feafon’d with a little Salt and Pep-

‘per. Some eat them with Sugar together in the Skin, which has

a pleafant Crimpnefs, They are alfo ftew’d and bak’d in Pies, &c.

21. Purfelan. _ Lay the Stalks in an Earthen-Pan; then cover
them with Beer-Vinegar and Water, keeping them down witha
competent Weight, to imbibe, three Days : Being taken out, _
put them into a Pot with as much White-wine Vinegar as will

and clofé the Lid with Pafte, to keep in the
team: Then fet them on'the Fire for three or four Hours, of-

~ ten fhaking and ftirring them : Then open-the-Cover,--and--turn.

and remove thofe.Stalks which lie at the Bottom, to the Top,
and boil them as before, till they are all of a Colour. When-all—
is cold, Pot them with frefh White-wine Vinegar, and fo you
may preferve them the whole Year. round.

22. Radifh, The Seed-Pods of this Root being picki’d, are a
pretty Sallet. a araee Fae Seton ;

23. Sampier. Let it be gather’d about Michaelmas (or the
Spring) and put two or three. Hours into a Brine of Water and
Salt; then into a clean Tin’d Brafs Pot, with three Parts of
ftrong White-wine Vinegar, and one Part of Water and Salt, or
as much as will cover the Sampier, keeping the Vapour from
iffuing out, by pafting down the Pot-lid, and fo hang it over
the Fire, for half an Hour only. Being taken off, let it remain
cover'd till it be cold; and then put it up into {mall Barrels or
Jarrs, with the Liquor, and fome frefh Vinegar, Water, and
Salt-;.and thus it will keep very green. If you be near the Sea,
that Water will fupply the Place Of Brine. This is the Dover
Receit.

_boiling.~“And when all this Coft is beffow’d upon them, take
ia Advice, and fling them away. - Malignant, exitial, mortal,
poy Pefte. and deleterious, qualicunque fit apparatus inftructu.

24. Walnuts. Gather the Nuts young, before they begin to
harden, but not before the Kernel is pretty white : Steep them
‘in as much Water as will more than cover them. Then fet
__ 18. Nafturtium Indicum, Gather the Buds before they open to them on the Fire, and when the Water boils, and grows black,
flower ; lay them in the Shade three or four Hours, and putting —pour it off, and fupply it_with frefh, boiling it_-as_before, and
them into an Earthen-glaz’d Veflel, pour good yineger on them, continuing to fhift it till it become clear, and the Nets pretty
and cover it with a Board. Thus letting it ftand for eight or’ tender : Then let them be put iato clean — for two

ten Days: Then being taken out, and gently prefs'd, caft them . Days, changing it as before, with frefh, two or three times “
into se i

APPENDIX
this fpace: Then lay them to drain and dry on a clean coarfe
Cloth, and put them up in a Glafs Jarr, with'a few Walnut
Leaves, Dill, Cloves, Pepper, whole Mace and Salt; flrewing
them under every Layer of Nuts, till the Veflel be Three quarters
full ; and laftly, replenifhing it with the beft Vinegar, keep it well
covered ; and fo they will be fit to {pend within Three Months.

To make a Mango with them.

The green Nuts prepared as before, cover the bottom of the

Jarr with fome Dill, an Handful of Bay-Salt, &c. and then a

Bed of Nuts; and {fo ftratum upon /fratum, as above, adding to
the Spice fome Roccombo-Seeds 3 and filling the reft of the Jarr
with the beft White-wine Vinegar, mingled with the beft Mu-
ftard; and fo let them remain clofe cover'd, during two or
three Months time: And thus have you a more agreeable
Mango than what is brought us from Abroad ; which you may
ufe in any Sauce, and is of it felf-a rich Condiment.

Thus far Pickles.

25. Potage Maigre. Take four Quarts of Spring-Water, two
or three Onions ftugk with fome Cloves, two or three Slices
Ofkimon-Peel, Salt, whole White-Pepper, Mace, a Race or
two of Ginger, ty’d up in a fine Cloth (Lawn or Tiffany) and
make all boil for half an Hour : ‘Then having Spinage, Sorrel,
white Beet-Ghard, a little Cabbage, a few fmall Tops of Cives,
wath’d and pick’d clean, fhred them well, and caft them into
the Liquor, with a Pint of blue Peafe boil’d foft and ftrain’d,
with a Bunch of Sweet-Herbs, the Top and Bottom of a French
' Rofl; and fo fuffer it to boil during three Hours ; and then difh
it with another fmall French Rod, and Slices about the Difh’:
Some cut Bread in Slices, and frying them brown (being dry'd)
~ put them into the Pottage jut as it is going to be eaten.

The fame Herbs clean wath’d, broken and pull’d afunder
only, being pit in a clofe cover'd Pipkin, without any other
Water or Liquor, will ftew in their own Juice and Moitfture.
Some add an whole Onion, which after a while thould be ta-
ken out, remembring to feafon it with Salt and Spice, and ferve
it up with Bread and a Piece of Freth-Butter.

26. Pudding of Carrot. Pare off the Cruft and tougher Part
of two Penny White-Loaves, grating the reft, as alfo haff as
much of the Root: Then take a Pint of freth Cream or
new Milk, half a Pound of Frefh-Butter, fix new-laid Eggs
(taking out three of the Whites) math and mingle them well
with the Cream and Butter: Then put in the grated Bread

and Carrot, with near half a Pound of Sugar, and a little .

Salt ; fome grated Nutmeg and beaten Spice ; and pour all
into a convenient Dith or Pan, butter'd, to keep the Ingre-
dients from fticking and burning; fet it in a quick Oven for

about

APPENDIX :

“about an Hour, and fo have you 4 Compofition for any Root .

Pudding.

27. Penny-royal. The Cream, Eggs, Spice, @c. as above, but
not fo much Sugar and Salt: Take a pretty quantity of Penny-
royal and Marigold Flowers, &c, very. well thred, and mingle
with the Cream, Eggs, Sc, four Spoonfuls of Sack; half a
Pint more of Cream, and almoft a Pound of Beef-Suet chop’d
very {mall, the Gratings of a Two-penny Loaf; and ftirring

all well together, ‘put it into a Bag flowerd, and tie it faft. It

~ will be boil’d within aa Hour: Or may be bak’d in the Pan

like the Carrot-Pudding. The Sauce is for both, a little Rofe-
water, lefs Vinegar, with Butter beaten together and poured
on ‘it, fweetned withthe Sugar Cafter.

Of this Plant difcreetly dry’d, is made a moft wholfom and
‘excellent Tea.

28. Of Spinage. .Take a fufficient quantity of Spinach; ftamp
and ftrain out the Juice; put to it grated Manchet, the Yolk
of as many Eggs as in the former Compofition of the Car-
rot-Pudding; {ome Marrow fhred {mall, Nutmeg, Sugar, fome

~Corinths (if you pleafe,) a few Carroways, Rofe or Orange-

flower Water (as you beft like) to make it grateful. Mingle all
with a little boil’d Cream; and fet the Dith or Pan in the Oven,

. with.a Garnifh of Puff-pafte. It will require but very mode-

rate baking. Thus have you Receits for Herb-Puddings.

29. Skirret-Milk is made by boiling the Roots tender, and
the Pulp ftrained out, put into Cream. or New Milk boil’d,
with three or four Yolks of Eggs, Sugar, large Mace, and other
Spice, Sc. And thus is compofed any other Root-Milk. See
Acetar. p. 164. ‘

30. Tanfy. Take the Gratings or Slices of three Naples-..
Bifcuits, put them into half a Pint of Cream, with twelve freth

ee

208

ne

Eggs, four of the Whites caft out, ftrain the reft, and break‘ °

them with two Spoonfuls of Rofe-water, a. little Sale and Su-
~~ gar, half a grated Nutmeg: And when ready for the Pan, put

almoft a Pint of the Juice of Spinach, Cleaver, Beets, Corn-
Sallet,-Green—C€orn, Violet-or-Primrofe tender Leaves, (for of
any of thefe you may take your Choice) with a very fmall
Sprig of- Tanfy, and let it be fry’d fo as to look green in the

~Dith, with a Strew of Sugar, and ftore of the Juice of Orange :
Some affect to-have it fry'd a little brown and crifp.

31. Zart of Herbs. An Herb-Tart is made thus: Boil frefh

". Cream’ or Milk, with a little grated Bread or Naples-Bifcuit.

(which is better) to thicken it ; a pretty quantity of Chervile,
Spinach, Beet Cor what other Herb you pleafe)’ being firft par-
boil’d and chop’d. Then add Macaron, or Almonds beaten 8 a

: e,

APPENDIX.
Pafte, a little Sweet-Butter, the Yolk of five Eggs, three of the

- Whites rejected. To thefe fome add Corinths plump’d in -

yay or boil’d therein, Sugar, Spice at Difcretion, and ftirring
# all together over the Fire, bake it in the Tart-Pan. >

32. Thiflle. Take the long Stalks of the middle Leaf of the

Milky-Thiftle, about May, when they are young and tender eh
‘and ferape them, and boil them in Water, with a tittle Saft, till
they are very foft, and fo let them lie to drain. They are eaten
with Frefh-Butter melted not too thin, and is a delicate and
- wholfom Dith. Other Stalks of the fame kind may fo be treated,
as the Bur, being tender and difarmed of its Prickles, @c.

33. Zrufles, and other Zubers and Boleti, are roafted whole
in. the Embers; then flic’'d and ftew’d—ia-flrong Broth with
Spice, ©c. as Mufbroms are. Vide Acetar. p. 157.

34. Turnip. Take their Stalks (when they begin to run up to
Seed) as far as they will eafily break dowawards : Peel and tie
them ia Bundles. Then boiling them as they do- Sparagus, are
to be eaten with melted Butter:-Laftly,

35- Minc'd, or Sallet-all-forts.

Take Almonds blanch’d in cold Water, cut them round and
thin, and fo leave them in the Water: Then have pickl’d Cu-
cumbers, Olives, Cornelians, Capers, Berberries, Red-Beet, Buds
of Nafturtium, Broom, ©&c. Purflain-Stalk, Sampier, Ath-keys,
Walnuts, Mufhroms (and almoft of all the pickl'd Furniture)
with Raifins of the Sun fton’d, Citron and Orange-Peel, Co-
rinths (well cleans’d and dry’d) &c. mince them feverally (ex-
cept the Corinths) or all together; and flrew them over with
any Candy’d Flowers, and fo difpofe of them in the fame Dith
both mix’d, and-by themfelves. To thefe add roafted Maroons,
. Piftachios, Pine-Kernels, and of Almonds four times as much as
"of the reft,. with fome Rofe-water. Here alfo come in the
PickI'd Flowers and Vinegar in little China-Difhes. And thus
have you an Univerfal Wiater-Sallet, or an Ad-fort in Compen-
dium, fitted for a City-Feaft, and diftinguifhed from the Grand-
Sadlet ; which thowd confift of the Green blanch’d and un-
pickl'd, under a ftately Pennafh of Sellery, adorn’d with Buds

and Flowers.

And thus have we prefented you a Tafte of our Englifh Gar-
den Houfewifry in the matter of Sallets: And tho’ fome of ’em

may be vulgar, (as are moft of the beft Things;) yet the was

willing to impart them, to fhew the Plenty, Riches, and Variety
of the Sallet-Garden: And to juftify what has been aflerted of
‘the Poflibility of living (not unhappily) on Herbs and Plants,
according to Oréginal and Divine. Inffitution, improved. by
oe eee Time

aie

aa

APPENDIX

Time and long Experience. And if we have admitted Mufbroms
among the reft (contrary to our Intention, and for Reafons given
Acetar. p. 157.) fince many will by no means abandon them, we
have endeavour'd to preferve them from thofe pernicious Ef-
fects Which are attributed to, and really in them: We cannot
tell, indeed, whether they were fo treated and accommodated for
the moft luxurious of the Cafareat Tables, when that Monarchy
was in its higheft Strain of Epicurifm, and ingrofs’d this A’augout
for their fecond Courfe; whilft this we know, that ‘tis but what

Nature affords all her Vagabonds under every Hedge.

And now, that our Sal/ets may not want a Glafs of generous
Wine of the fame Growth with the reft of the Garden to ree
commend.it, let us have your Opinion of the following. as

Cowflip-Wine. To every Gallon of Water put two Pounds of
Sugar; boil it,an Hour, and fet it to cool: Then fpread a good
brown 7oaf on both fides with Yeaf#: But before you make ufe
of it, beat fome Syrop of Citron with it, an Ounce and half of
Syrop to each Gallon of Liquor: Then put in the Toaft whilft

hot, to affift its Fermentation, which will ceafe in two Days ;

during which time caft in the Cow/lip-Flowers. (a little bruifed,
but not much ftamp’d) to the quantity of half a Buthel to ten
Gallons (or-rather three Pecks) four Limons flic’d, with the
Kinds and—all. —Laftly, one Pottle of White or Rhenifh Wine;

and then after two Days, tunit up ina {weet Cask. Some leave

out all the Syrop. .

And here, before we conclude, fince there is nothing of more
conftant Ufe than good Vinggar; or that has fo near an AMi-
nity toall our Acetaria, we think it, not amifs to add the follow-
ing (much approved) Receit.

Vinegar. To every Gallon of Spring-Water, let there be al-
lowed three Pounds of Malaga-Raifins : Put them in an Earthen
Jarr, and place them where they may have the hotteft Sun
from May till Mighaelmas: Then preffing them well, tun the
Liquor up in a very ftrong Iron-hoop'd Veffel, to prevent its
burfting. It will appear very thick and muddy when newly
prefsd, but will refine in the Veflel, and be as clear as Wine.
Thus=let=it=remain untouch’d for three Months, before it be
drawn off, and it will prove excellent Vinegar.

| Butter. Batter being likewife fo frequent-and_neceflary 3 an ;

Ingredient .to divers of the foregoing Appendants: It fhould be

"carefully melted, that it turn not to an Oil ; which is prevented
~ by melting it leifurely, with a little fair Water at the bottom

of the Difh or Pan; and by continual fhaking and ftirring, kept
from boilipg or over-heating, which makes it rank.
Other “fare and exquifite Liguors and Teas (Produ&ts+of our

Gardens only) we might fuperadd, which we leave.to our La-
dy Floufewives, whofe Province, indeed, all this while it is.

Eeece _ Kalendarium

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413