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BAEDEKER'S EUROPEAN GUIDE BOOKS

Latest Editions always on hand and mailed to any address on rece of price. Illustrated with numerous Maps, Plans, Panoramas, and Views. 12mo, Cloth. ALL PRICED NET.

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16 Maps, 80 Plans, 7 Views, and 76 Vignettes, .... $4. EGYPT (UPPER), WITH Nubia as par as the Second Cataract and tj

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the Loire, excluding Paris and its Environs, with 9 Maps and

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PRANCE (SOUTHERN), from the Loire to the Spanish and Italic

Frontiers, including CORSICA, with 14 Maps and 19 Plans, . $2. GERMANY (NORTHERN), with 35 Maps and 54 Plans, . . . $2. GERMANY (SOUTHERN) AND AUSTRIA, including Hungary, Halmati

AND BosiNA, with 16 Maps and 31 Plans, $2.

GERMANY (RHINE) FROM ROTTERDAM to CONSTANCE, with 39 Ma

and 21 Plans, $2.

GREAT BRITAIN, with 15 Maps and 30 Plans and a Panorama, . $3.i GREECE, with 6 Maps, 14 Plans, and a Panorama of Athens, . . $3 ( ITALY (NORTHERN) including LEGHORN, FLORENCE. RAVENNi

AND Routes through Switzerland and Austria, with 16 Maps and j

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ITALY (CENTRAL) AND ROME, with 10 Maps, 31 Plans, a Panorama <

Rome, and a View of the Foram Romanum $l.f

ITALY (SOUTHERN), SICILY, with Excursions to the Lipari Island

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Tyrol, with 39 Maps, 11 Plans, and 12 Panoramas, . . . f TRAVELLER'S MANUAL OF CONVERSATION, IN English, Ger'

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No. 12, Water Street & Bund, Yokohama.

Is ONE OF THE SIGHTS OF YOKOHAMA, AND OWING TO the Liberal Lines on which it is conducted, has in its Collection some of the mpst superb pieces of both Ancient and Modebn Art Workmanship in the country, embracing

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Douglas Sladen says in his Tourist's guide to Yokohama and Tokio : — " For all sorts and conditions of buyers I consider the Fine Art Gallery

THE MODEL CUEIO SHOP."

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Visitors to Japan are cordially invited to inspect our collection, and will find all articles marked in Plain Figures at Moderate Prices.

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ARTHUE & BOND'S

No. 12, Water Street & Bund, Tokohama.

\

A

V

HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS

m

JAPAN

8i:i)irb (Sbition

RBYISBD AND FOB THE MOST PART BE-WBITTEN

BY

BASIL HALL CHAMBERLAIN

XMEBITUS FROFE8SOB OF JAPANB8B AND FHILOLOOT IN THB IMPERIAL

UNIYBBSITT OF JAPAN

AND

W. B. MASON

LATE OF THB IMPERIAL JAPANESE DEPARTMENT OF COMMUNICATIONS

WITH FIFTEEN MAPS

r^ut •

NEW YORK

CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS

LONDON JOHN MURRAY

-,.♦*.

YOKOHAMA SHANGHAI HONGKONG SINGAPORE

.KELLY/ WALSH, LIMITED 1893

[ ALL RIGHTS RBSERYED ]

Ti. Preface,

Foss, T. B. Glover Esq., J. K. Goodrich Esq., Lafcadio Heam Esq., Dr. J. L. Janson, Professor J. Milne, F.R.S., Bunyiu Nanjio Esq., Arthur Norman Esq., H. V. S. Peeke Esq., F. Plate Esq., J. B. Rentiers Esq., F. Ringer Esq., W. J. S. Shand Esq., Rev. G. T. Smith, Professor T.' Wada, Captain R. N. Walker, Dr. H. Weipert, and several other gentlemen. They would furthermore acknoivledge their in- debtedness to the works of Dr. J. J. Rein, Rev. W. E. Griffis, Dr. W. N. Whitney, and Dr. E. J. Eitel, as also to the columns of the *■ Japan Mail.*

i

Any corrections or suggestions will be gratefully received. Tokyo, July, 1891.

CONTENTS.

INTRODUCTION.

Page.

1. General ; Books on Japan ; Maps 1

2. Steam Communication ... 2

3. Cnstom-House 3

4. Treaty Limits ; Passports.. 3

5. Guides 4

6. Posts ; Telegraplis ; Banks 5

7. Currency, 5

8. Weights and .Measures ... 5

9. Inns ; Travelling Expenses 7

10. Climate; Dress; Time of

Visit 8

11. Provisions 9

12. Means o£ Locomotion ;

Luggage 10

13. Places best worth Visiting 12

14. Purchases ; Objects of Art. 12

Pack.

15. Shipment of Curios 13

16. Shooilfcig 14

17. Fishing 14

18. Miscel£bneous Hints 15

19. Language 17

20. The Shinto Religion 21

21. Japanese Buddhism 24

22. List of Go4s and God- desses 27

23. Christian Mission Stations 33

24. Outline of Japanese His- tory 34

25. Celebrated Personages 36

26. Population of the Chief Cities 47

27. Outline Tours 48

EOUTES. Section I. — Eastern Japan.

BouTV. Page.

1. Yokohama 53

2. Excursions from Yoko- hama* 55

3. Yokohamato Tokyo by Rail 62

4. Tokyo ,_. 63

5. Excursions from Tokyo ... 91

6. The Hakone District : Mi-

yanoshita, Hakone 97

7. 'Hie Peninsula of Izu 108

8. Vries Island Ill

9. Fuji and Neighbourhood... 114

10. Ways to and from Kofu ... 121

11. Kumagai to Omiya in Chi- chibu 139

12. The Tokyo-Takasaki-Yoko-

kawa Railway. [Maebashi.] Isobe, Myogi-san 140

13. Karuizawa and Asama- yama 142

14. Ikao, Kusatsu, and Neigh- bourhood 146

Route. Paos.

15. The Ryomo Railway 150

16. Nikko and Neighbourhood. 152

17. Prom Nikko to Tokyo or Ikao ind Ashio and the Valley of the Watarase- gawa. Chuzenji to Ashio... 167

18. Prom Nikko to Ikao over the Konsei-toge ' 169

19. Trips in the Provinces of Hitachi, Shimosa, Kazusa, and Boshu 171

20. The Shiobera District 182

21. Bandai-san 184

22. From Niigata to Waka- matsu (Aizu), and to Moto- miya on the Northern Railway 186

23. From Koriyama through the Province of Iwaki to TairaandMito 187

vm.

Contents.

Section II. — Nobthern Japan.

Bouts. . Page.

24. The Northern Eailway and

theOshuKaido 191

25. From Sendai to Yamagata and Yonezawa 202

26. From TSkyo to Akita on the North- West Coast ... 203

27. From Sendai to Tsnruga- oka, Sakata, Honjo, and Akita 204

Route.

28. From Niigata to Tsuru-ga- oka

29. From Akita to Aomori. . . .

30. Matsushima and Kinkwa^

zan

31. The North-East Coast

Section III. — Central Japan.

32.

83. 84.

The Karuizawa - Naoetsu Bailway and Niigata. The .

Island of Sado

The West Coast from Tsn-

ruga to Naoetsu

The Mountains of Etchu and Hida

Section IV. — Koutes

85.

The Bapids of the Tenryu- gawa. The Ina Kaido ... From Nagoya through the

Potteries to Nebane

37. The Shinto Temples of Ise

36.

219

227

230

Connecting Tokyo and Kyoto.

38. 39.

41. 42. 43.

AA,

45. 46.

TheTokaido 257

TheNakasendo : 270

Section V. — Western Japan and the Inland Sea.

40. By Steamer from Yoko- hama to Kobe

K5be and Neighbourhood.. 279 Osaka and Neighbourhood. 283

Kyoto 287

Lake Biwa 317

Nara and Neighbourhood.. 324 Through Yamatb to the Monastery of Koya-san in Kishu 331

47. From Kyoto through Tam- ba to the Se^. of Japan. Ama-no-Hashidate

48. TheSan-indo

49. The Island of Awaji

50. The Inland Sea and the Chief Towns its Shores ....

on or near

Section VI. — The Island of Shikoku.

61. From Matsuyama jbo Kochi over the Mountains of lyo andTosa 371

Section VII.— The

54. Nagasaki and Neighbour- hood 379

55. Excursions from Nagasaki. 384

56. Through North - "V^stern

Kyushu by Eoad and Rail. 391

57. From Kokura to Oita by the North-East Coast and

to Kumamoto 897

58. From Kumamoto to Nobe- oka and Oita 404

52. From Kochi to Tokushima down the Eapids of the Yoshino-gawa

63. Outline of other Trips in Shikoku

Island of Kyushu.

59. Nagasaki to Kagoshima ...

60. Kagoshima to Kirishima- yama and via the Bapids of the Kumagawa to Ku- mamoto

61. From Nagasaki to the Go- t5 Islands and Tsushima ; to Fusan and Gensan in Korea; and to Vladivo- stock in Siberia

Contents.

IX.

Section VIII. — The Island of Yezo.

Bouts. Page.

62. Ha«kodate and Neighbour-

hood 415

63. Excursions from Hakodate 418

64. Hakodate to Fukuyama ... 420

65. Hakodate to Esashi 422

Route. Page.

66. Hakodate to Sapporo and VolcanoBay 42a

67. The South-East Coast and the Southern Kuriles 426

68. From Kushiro to Abashiri. The North-East Coast 427

APPENDIX.

I. From Inawashiro to Yone- zawa viA Bandai - san and the Hibara Pass ... 429

n. From Yonezawa to Mura- kami ind Miomote 430

m. From Murakami to Tsuru- ga-oka tnd the Agari-toge. 431

GLOSSARY

INDEX

IV. From Tsuru-ga-oka to

Sendai Tnd the Bokuju- ri-goe and the Seki- yama-toge 432:

V. Note on Yudono-san 482

433

438

EBBATA 460

«f

MAPS AND PLANS.

*•« ••• ••• •«• ••• ••• •••

Japan

8hintd Temple of Izomo Buddhist Temple of Ikegami Neighbourhood of Yokohama Tokyo and Neighbourhood ... Fuji and the Hakone District Ikao and Kusatsu

NikkO

Eastern Japan Northern Japan Central Japan... Kdbo and Osaka

Kydto

Western Japan and the Inland jvy ubuvi ... ... ... ... ...

Neighbourhood of Nagasaki South-Western Yezo

!•• ••• •«•

• •• ••• •••

• •• ••• ••■

• • • ■ • •

*•• ••• •mi

••• ••• ••• •••

• • ••• •«•

) • • • ■ •

• • ••• ••• •(• ••• ••• ••!

• • ••• ••• •••

• • ■•• •••

• • • • • •

• • ••• ■•• ••• •••

Sea

• • • • • 4

••• ••■ ••!

• •« •«• ••• ••• ••«

PAGE.

to face

Title-page.

f>

23

»>

26

a»

53

a

63

99

97

>»

145

»»

152

»

188

99

216

99

254

>•

279

99

287

**

368

»

377

99

379

*•

413

A

Handbook for Travellers

IN

JAPAN .

INTRODUCTION.

Page.

1. General; Books on Japan; Maps 1

2. Steam Communication ... 2

3. Custom House 3

4. Treaty Limits; Passports 3

5. Guides 4

6. Posts ; Telegraphs;

Banks 6

7. Currency 5

8. Weights and Measures ... 5

9. Inns ; TraveUing Ex- penses 7

10. Climate; Dress; Time of Visit 8

11. Provisions j 9

12. Means of Locomotion;

Luggage : 10

13. Pla^s best worth Visit- ing 12

Pagk.

14. Purchases; Objects of Art 12

15. Shipment of Curios ... ..... 13

16. Shooting 14

17. Fishing 14

18. Miscel£.neous Hints 15

19. Language 17

20. The Shinto Eeligion 21

21. Japanese Buddhism 24

22. List of Gods and God- desses .f 27

23. Christian Mission Sta- tions .^....... 33

24. Outline of Japanese His- tory 34

25. Celebrated Personages ... 36

26. Population of the Chief Cities 47

27. OutUne Tours 48

1. — ^General ; Books on Japan ; Maps.

Japan, secluded for over two centuries from contact with the outer world, was burst open by tlie American expedition in 1853-4 under the command of Commodore Perry. Making a virtue of necessity, her rulers soon determined to Europeanise the country as the best means of preserving its independence. Ships were bought, foreign naval and military instructors engaged, feudalism replaced by a centralised auto- cracy, education re-organised on the pattern offered by Western nations, posts, telegraphs, and railways introduced, European dress, European manners, European amusements adopted. Buddhism dis- established, Christianity — if not encouraged — at least no longer perse* ented. In short, in every sphere of activity the old order gave way to

2 Introduction: — Steam Communication.

tbe new. Bat even Japan, great as is the power of imitation and assimilation possessed by lier people, has not been able completely to transform her whole material, mental, and social being within the limits of a single lifetime. Fortunately for the tourist, she continues in a state of transition — less Japanese and more European day by day, it is true, but still retaining characteristics of her own, especially in the dress, manners, and beliefs of the lower classes of society. Those who wish to see as much as possible of the old order of things, should come quickly.

It is impossible within the limits of this Introduction to enter into those details of race, history, customs, religion, art, literature, etc., which, together with the more recent influence of Europe and Ame- rica, have made Japan what she is to-day. The traveller who desires to travel intelligently — to do more than merely wander from hotel to hotel — may be referred for a summary of such information to a small work entitled " Things Japanese," where, if he wishes for still more, he will . find references to the original authorities in each special branch. Of religion alone, a short sketch seemed indispensable, as the temples are Japan's chief sights ; and we have added an outline of history and a list of celebrated personages, in order to assist the traveller to thread his way through tbe maze of proper names with which he will be confronted. In Japan, more than in any European country, is it necessary to take some trouble in order to master such preliminary information. For whereas England, France, Italy, Ger- many, and the rest, all resemble each other in their main features, because all have alike grown up in a culture fundamentally identical, this is not the case with Japan. He, therefore, who should essay to travel without having learnt a word concerning Japan's past, would run the risk of forming opinions ludicrously erroneous. We would also specially recommend Griffis's "Mikado's Empire" and Rein's "Japan" and **The Industries of Japan," as books which it would be profitable to read on the way out. Rein's works are, it is true, fitted only for the serious student, who is prepared for hard words ard tech- nical details ; but " The Mikado's Empire " is calculated to appeal to all classes of readers. Of books on Japanese art, we may name Ander- son's admirable work, "The Pictorial Arts of Japan," and Huish's more handy " Japan and its Art." Morse's " Japanese Homes " is an excellent description, not only of the dwellings of the people, but of all the articles belonging to their daily life.

By far the best maps are those now in course of publication at the Imperial Geological Office, and to be obtained of Messrs. Kelly and Walsh at Yokohama.

2. — Steam Communication.

Japan may be reached either by the Pacific Mail or the Occiden- tal and Oriental Company's steamers from San Francisco in about 19 days, or from Vancouver by the Canadian Pacific Company's steamers in a day or two less ; or else from Europe vid the Suez Canal by the Peninsular and Oriental steamers from London and Brindisi \

Cmtom.' House. Treaty Limits ; Passports, 3

by the Messageries Maritimes from Marseilles, and by the Norddeu- tscher Lloyd from Bremerhaven, Southampton, or Genoa in about 40 days. There are also outside steamers from London, especially those of the "Glen" and "Shire" Lines, with good passenger accom- modation.

Yokohama, the connecting port of all the above, is also the chief centre of the local steamship traffic. The principal Japanese company is the Nippon Yusen Ewaislm (Japan Mail Steamship Company), which runs steamers thrice weekly to Hakodate, almost daily to Kobe; weekly to Nagasaki and Shanghai; fortnightly vilt the Inland Sea to Vladivo- stock in Siberia, calling at Fusan and Gensan in Korea, for Tientsin v'i§L the Inland Sea, calling at Korean ports; weekly from Kobe to Sakai, Tsurnga, Niigata on the West Coast, and Hakodate, occupying altoge- ther about six weeks on the round trip; also, at longer intervals, to the Loochoo and Bonin Islands. The Kobe Domei Kisen-Gwaisha maintains communication with the principal ports in the Inland Sea, and there are numerous smaller companies which run boats to most of the ports on the coast as well as on some of the larger rivers and lakes.

Boats — known in the Treaty Ports as sampans — ply in all the harbours, and land passengers from the steamers. The usual fare from ship to shore, or vice versd^ is from 10 to 20 sen per head. Hotel boats are in attendance at the. larger places.

8. — CusTOM-HousE.

A strict examination of the luggage of passengers is made at t]^ Custom-house ; but it is rare for any difficulty to arise, as opium is the only article prohibited in the tarifE. All dutiable articles, however, should be entered on the ship's manifest, as otherwise the owner renders himself liable to a fine. (See also section on Shipment of Curios.)

4. — Tbeaty Limits; Passpokts.

Foreigners® have the right to reside without passports at the "Open Ports" (also called "Treaty Ports") of Yokohama, Kobe, Osaka, Nagasaki, Hakodate, and Niigata, and at any place within a radius of 10 ri, that is, nearly 24^ miles from those ports. The last place on the Tokaido railway, coming from Yokohama, at which one may stay without a passport is Kozu. . Tokyo, though not properly an Open Port, may be visited without a passport, as may also its immediate neigh- bourhood ; and the night may be spent at the Imperial, Tokyo, Club, and Seiyoken Hotels, or at a friend's house without let or hindrance.

Passports for visiting other portions of Japan may be obtained by tourists and all others not in Japanese employ by application to the diplomatic representative of the country to which they belong, these diplomatic representatives obtaining them from the Japan- ese Foreign Office. Tlius, Englishmen mUst apply to the British

* *' ForeigpaerQ '* (Jap. gwaikokujin or ijin) is the word uni^^sally employed in Japan to denote all persons or Caucasian race. It will sound o«d to new-comers to hear KngUshmen speaking of themselves as ** foreigners," *' we foreigners."

4 Introduction : — Guides.

Minister, and Americans to the United States Minister, both of whom, also the majority of the representatives of other countries, have the Legations in Tokyo. Foreign employes must apply through the Japanese employers.

It should be distinctly understood that passports, though never r fused, are of the nature of a favour. They cannot be demanded of tl Legation authorities. Properly speaking, the tourist should presei himself in person at the Legation to make the application. When th is impossible, a note should be written to the Minister, explaining tl circumstances and requesting that the passport be sent to such and sue a place. This application should be forwarded through the Consul ( the port at which one is staying. The Hakone-Miyanoshita-Atari district is an exception. Passports for it can be obtained of the Kencl ^Prefecture) or of the Consuls at Yokohama on payment of a small fe A similar rule holds good at Kobe with regard to passports for tl Kyoto-Nara and Lake Biwa district, and at Nagasaki for the baths c Ureshino and Takeo.

The Japanese authorities generally insist on being exactly informe of the route the traveller purposes taking. He is therefore advised 1 make out his application with great minuteness, mentioning as man routes and places on each route as possible. This he can best do eitlu by copying portions of the headings and names of the chief places i the itineraries given at the beginnfng of each Route in this volume, ( by taking counsel with some resident friend. After all, he is not ol liged to visit every place on his programme, which had therefoi better err on the side of over-fullness than on that of scantiness. ] would be highly convenient if the Japanese authorities would grac passports for all Japan ; but this they almost invariably refuse to d< Passports are, however, granted for certain routes termed * Fixed * c * Regular Routes,Mists of 'which are kept at the British and America Legations. The word * Fixed * or ' Regular,' as tlius used, is not mean to imply that travel is in any way restricted to the routes in questior The arrangement is meant only to save trouble to the applicants as we! as to the authorities.

An application for a passport should state the time for which th passport is desired. From one to three months is the time which it i generally advisable to mention, applications for longer periods beinj liable to be refused. It is also desirable to state that the journey i intended " for the benefit of my health."

6. — Guides.

Guides understanding English can be procured of the Guides' Associa tion i^Kaiyiisha) at Yokohama and Kobe, with branches at Tokyo ant Kyoto. Apply at any of the hotels. The fixed charge at presen (1891) is advertised as follows : — "One dollar per day for a party o one or two tourists ; over two, 25 cents added for each tourist. In al cases the guide's travelling expenses must be paid by his employer, anc he is to be allowed one dollar per day additional for his hotel expenses.

A guide is an absolute necessit}' to persons unacquainted with tli( language. Those knowing a little Japanese may feel thembelve

Posts ; Telegrwphs ; Banks. Currency, Weights d Measures^ 5

more their own masters by hiring a man-servant, or "boy," also able to cook, and having neither objection to performing menial functions, nor opinions of his own as to the route which it wiU be best to take.

6. — Posts ; Telegraphs ; Banks.

The Imperial Japanese Post and Telegraph services are excellent. Letters and papers can be forwarded with perfect safety to the different stages of a journey. The Post-oflSce Order system is thoroughly efficient, and will be found useful by travellers who wish to avoid carrying about much money.

In most' towns of any size the Post and Telegraph Offices are combined. Telegrams in any of the principal Eumpean languages cost 5 cents per Word, with a minimum charge of 25 cents, addresses being charged for. A telegram in Japanese of 10 Karva characters costs 15 cents, addresses not being charged for, and the foreign residents therefore often avail themselves of this means of com- manication.

There are at Yokohama, Kobe, and Nagasaki branches of the Hongkong and Shanghai Bank, the New Oriental Bank, and the Chartered Bank of India, Australia, and China. The 119th National Bank, a Japanese institution in Tokyo, issues cheque-books for the use of foreigners, and is a convenient medium for making payments to the larger Japanese hotels and trading firms.

7. — ^CuRRENCY,

The values are decimal, with the yen^ or dollar, as the unit. One yen contains K)0 sen or cents ; one «6w contains 10 r'ln. The currency consists of gold which is practically never seen ; of silver pieces of 1 y«n, 50 «6w, 20 «e», 10 «ew, and 5 sen ; of nickel pieces of 5 sen ; of copper pieces of 2 «e«, 1 sen^ 5 rm, and 1 r'ln^ besides others issued during feudal days representing 1 J rm, 8 riw, (these are oblong pieces called tempQ)y etc.; and of paper money worth 20 sen, 50 sen, 1 yen, 5 yeji, 10 yen, and various larger sums. Mexican silver dollars circulate only at the Treaty Ports.

It is best to travel with paper money, both because of its superior portability, and because it is better known to the inhabitants of the interior than the silver yen. One of the first things the tourist should do is to learn the difference between the various notes for the values above-mentioned. He is advised to take with him no notes of a larger denomination than 10 yen, as it is often difficult to get change except in the large towns,

8. — Weights and Measures.

Distances are reckoned by ri and cho, 36 cho going to the ri.*^ One ri is equal to 2.44 English statute miles, or, roughly speaking, to a trifle under 2^ miles. One cho is equal to 358 English feet, or TTj of a mile. The cho is subdivided into 60 ken (1 ken=6 ft.

* Some mountain districts have a longer n of 50 cho.

Introduction : — Weights and Measures,

approximately), and the ken into 6 shahu (1 8hahu=l ft. ap- proximately). The subdivisions of the shahu follow the deciiiiul system. Throughout this work, the distances are given in ri and cho as well as in miles, as visitors to Japan invariably fall very soon into the Japanese method of reckoning, which indeed must be learnt in any case, as coolies, jinrikisha-men, and others know notiiing of English miles. A word of caution may here be given against the habit of certain Japanese having a superficial knowledge of English, who mistranslate the word ri by " miles." The following table, borrowed from Dr. Whitney's " Dictionary of Roads, Towns, and Villages of Japan," will be found useful : —

EQUIVALENTS OF JAPANESE £1 AND CSO IN ENGLISH MILES,

Japanese ri.

0

1

2

3

4

6

6

7

8

9

Miles

Miles

Miles

Miles

Miles

Miles

Miles

Miles

Miles

Miles

Miles

1

2.44

24.40

26.84

29.28

31.72

34.16

36.60

39.04

41.49

43 93

46.37

2

4,88

48.81

61.26

63.69

56.18

58.67

6101

63.45

6.-..H9

68.33

70.77

3

7.32

73.20

76.66

78.09

80.68

82.97

85.41

87.85

90.29

92.71^

96.17

4

9.76

97.61

100.05

102.49

101.93

107.37

109.81

112 25

114.69

117.13

119.68

5

12.2('

122.01

124.46

126.90

129 3J

131.78

134.21

136 66

139.10

141.64

143.98

6

u.e4

146.43

148.87

151.31

153.75

156.19

158.63

161.07

163.51

166.95

168.39

7

17.08

170.83

173.27

176.71

178.16

180.69

183.03

18647

187.91

190.35

192.79

8

19.52

195.23

197.67

200.11

202.55

2fi5 00

207.44

209.88

212..32

214.76

217.20

9-

21.96

219.64

222.08

J24.62

226.96

229.40

231.84

234.2b

286.72

239.16

241.60

Cho

Miles

Cho

Miles

Cho

Miles

Cho

Miles

Cho

Miles

Cho

Miles

1

0.07

7

0.47

13

0.88

19

1.29

25

1.69

31 •

2.10

2

O.U

■ 8

0.54

14

0.9o

20

1.36

26

1.76

32

2.17

8

0.2^

9

0.61

15

1.02

21

1.42

27

1.83

S3

2.24

4

0.27

10

0.68

16

1.08

22

1.49

28

1.90

84

2.30

6

0.34

11

0.76

17

1.15

23

1.66

29

1.97

35

2.37

6

0.41

12

0.81

18

1.22

24

1.63

80

2.03

36

2.44

Long Measure (Jcane). 10 hu=X sun (often translated 'inch,* but =1.19 inches of Ehglish measure); 10 8un=\ shahu \ 6 8hahu=\ hen ; 10 8hahu=l jo. Tiie jo, equal to about 10 English feet, is the unit empl'>ye<1 in measuring heights and depths.

Cloth Measure (Jcujira), 10 hu=\ stm ; 10 «mw=1 shahu, or nearly 12 inches ; 10 8hahu=l jo. In this measure, the shahu is ^ longer than in Long Measure.

Land Measure {tsubo). The unit is the tsuho, nearly equivalent to 4 square yards English. An acre is nearly equivalent to 1,210 tsuho,

1 cho^^ Hcres, and 1 ri (Rquare)=6 sq. miles, approximately.

Measure of Capacity. 10 ^o=l sho which contains about 108J cubic inches, and is a little larger. than IJ quart ; 10 «/?d=l to, nearly half a bushel, or, for liquids, 4 gallons ; 10 to=l hohu, which is a fraction less than 5 English bushels.

Weight's. The hin is about IJlb. avoirdupois; 1 lb. avoir.=abont 120 momrne. The kwan, which became the legal unit in 1891, is equal to 1,000 momme (fi\ hin or a little over 8j Ibn.)

Inns ; Travelling Expenses, 7

9. — Inns; Travelling Expenses.

The inns are given from personal knowledge or from the best accessible aathorities, an asterisk being sometimes prefixed to the name of a house specially worthy of mention. Wliat is termed hatago at a Japanese inn includes supper, bed, and breakfast, for which a single charge is made. This varies in different parts of the country; at present it ranges from 20 sen to 50 sen per head. Anything in the way of food or liquor ordered in addition to the meals supplied has to be paid for separately. There is no charge for firing, lighting, attendance, or bath, provided always the traveller is content with what is given to every one else, neither is there any for tea. But it is usual, shortly after arriving and being shown into a room, or in paying one's account just before leaving, to make a present, known as chadai or * tea-money.' The latter course is recommended. With Japanese travellers, this tea-money varies with the rank of the individual, the amount of extra attention which he desires or has received, and with the quality of the accommodation. The foreign tourist is on a somewhat different footing, and there are seldom gradations of rank in his case to be con- sidered. As a fair and practical solution of a vexed question, those who travel d la japonaise and who are charged in accordance with the above scale, may be recommended to make the amount of their chadai also vary from 20 sen to 50 sen per night. Therefore, for a single night's entertainment, the cost, hatago and chadai included, may be put down at from 40 cents to $1. If two or more persons are travelling together, the chadai is increased say to one half more for two, and double for three persons. The first guest to arrive has the prior right to the bath. In some parts, especially at bathing resorts, there is a fixed rate for accommodation only, the food being charged for separately according to order. In such places, it is. usual to make a present for distribution amongst the servants in addition to the chadai, whereas in the ordinary inns such presents are not looked for.

It is but fair that foreigners should pay more than natives, both for hotel accommodation and for jinrikishas. They generally weigh more, they almost always want to travel more quickly, they give infinitely more trouble at an inn with their demands for separate rooms, fresh water in the bath, the occupation of a portion of the kitchen to cook their European food in, and a dozen other such requirements, to say nothing of the necessity under which the host lies of reporting their presence to the police.

. In the Europeanised hotels at such frequented spots as Nikko, ^ Kamakura, Miyanoshita, Kyoto, Shizuoka, etc., the general charge is $2.50 or $3.50 a day, everything included except liquors. The charges at the hotels under foreign nianagement in the Open Ports are generally slightly higher. The charge per diem for a native servant is generally 50 sen a day. The average charge (to foreigners) ior jiwrihishas in the most frequented portions of the country is now (1891) from 10 to 15 sen per n, the same per hour, and $1 per diem. About 50 per cent, is added to these rates in bad weather and at night. But the tendency of late years has been towards constantly increased rates, owing to the

8 Introduction : — CUmate ; Dreu ; Time of Vint.

ride in the price of rice and other staple commodities. It is i give It small gratuity (_sakale) to jiorikiHtia-men after a hard ran

Perhaps one might Ba.y that the total cost to a traveller of i habits, travelling at a reasonable speed, and having with him a servant, should not exceed $8 per diem. If he restricts him mountainODB districls, the expense will be considerably leas.

It will be seen from the above that the hostelries at which tn in Japan put np are of three kinds : the European hotel, the peanised or half-European half-Japanese hotel (Aateru), and the native inn Q/adoya). The tea-honse (chaya) is different again, place where people neither sleep nor dine, but only halt for a she to rest and take slight refreshment. Reeidenta in Japan, howeve include inns under the denomination of tea-honses.

The best style of Japanese inn is now generally supplied »itl chairs and tables ; or if there are ijone in the house, some can be I in from tlie school or the police-station hard by, where thej rigueur. Beds are still rare ; but good quilts (futon') are lai on the mats, wherever may be most convenient ; a smaller qoilt rolled into a pillow, and in summer a mosquito-net will be provid

It is a common Japanese custom to carry letters of introductic inn to inn (annai-jo). This has advantages, especially in seai epidemic disease or under any other circumstances liable to cai traveller to he viewed with Buapicion, or when, for the purposes special investigation, he wishes to bo brought iuto intimate ri wilh his hosts along the road. Many inna keep printed fo annai-jo which they will fill in with the traveller's name. Occai these, and the little paper slips in which toothpicks are brougl the fans which it is the custom to present on departure to those who have given a suitable chadai, are charming specimens of Ji taste in small matters ofevery-day life.

10. — Cliuate ; DsEss ; Timb of Visit.

Bemeinber that Japan is not in the tropics, and bring warm c with you, whatever be the season of your visit; also ver; clothing, if your visit be in the summer. Even in July, the mean temperature of Tokyo is about 76° Fahrenheit, daj come when yon will be glad of all your winter things. This still more to the mountains. On the other hand, be more cai exposing yourself to the sun than you would be in England, J not 20° nearer the trofncs for nothing. A sun helmet and a wh brella are useful additions to the traveller's wardrobe.

Though clothes of the roughest description will suffice for the< districts, bring something better — something such as might b at home — in which to appear at the larger hotels, and to mis, . be, in Tokyo or Yokohama society, whether Japanese or foreign, regard to boots, it is advisable to wear such as can be pulled < on easily, as it i» neceuary to remove one's boots every time one ■ houte or temple, m order not to »oil the matt on which the Japa/. Grave offence is given, and naturally given, by the disregard

Provisions. 9

cnstom. Light shoes or boots with elastic sides are therefore to be preferred, except for mountain work. If your boots give out, try the native straw sandals {waraji) with the native sock {tdbi). Many foreigners have found them excellent foot-gear, the only addition re- quired being a small piece of cotton-wool to prevent chafing by the tliong which passes between the great and the second toe. Boots barely holding together can be made to last a day or two longer by tying waraji underneath them.

Roughly speaking, the Japanese summer and early autumn are hot and wet ; the late autumn and early winter cool, dry, and delightful ; February and March disagreeable, with occasional snow and dirty weather, which is all the more keenly felt iij Japanese inns devoid of fire-places ; the laie spring rainy and windy, with beautiful days interspersed. The average temperature of January, which is the coldest month, is between 36° and 37° Fahrenheit at Tokyo; but there are frequent frosts at night during five months of the year, namely, from November to March inclusive. Skating is rare in Tokyo. The climate of Northern Japan from Sendai onwards is much colder in winter, though not appreciably cooler during July and August. A similar remark applies even more forcibly to the entire West coast, which is exposed to icy winds blowing direct from Siberia.

Each traveller must judge for himself from the above remarks which season to select for his tour. If possible, he should be either in Tokyo or in Kyoto during the first week in April to see the magnificent display of cherry-blossoms, which are followed throughout the early summer by other flowers — peonies, azaleas, wistarias, irises — well-worth seeing both for their own sake and for that of the picturesque crowds of Japanese sightseers whom they attract. If not able to visit Kyoto early in April, he should try to be there at the end of October or early in November, when the autumn leavegf are in all their glory of red and gold. Tokyo is less favoured in this respect, but the chrysanthemums there early in November are magnificent. The summer may most advantageously be devoted to Nikko, Miyanoshita, Arima, or Unzen, or to travelling in Yezo and in the high mountainous districts of the interior of the Main Island, which are practically inaccessible except between June and October. Fuji can only be ascended during the hottest period of summer.

1 1 . — ^Provisions.

Except at a few of the larger towns and favourite hill or sea-side resorts, meat, bread, and the other forms of European food are unknown. Even chickens are but rarely to be obtained ; for though plenty may 1)6 seen in almost every village, the people object to soil them — partly because they keep them for the sake of their eggs, partly on account of a lingering Buddhist dislike to taking life. Those, therefore, who cannot live on the native fare of rice, eggs, and fish (tliis, too, not to be counted on in the mountains), should carry their own supplies with them. Winee, spirits, and cigars are equally unobtainable; but beer is to be met with in most towns, excellent beer being now brewed both at Yokohama {KitinBeer) and at Tokyo {Yehisu Beer), It is advisable to

10 Introduction: — Means of Locomotion ; Luggage,

take one or two knives, forks, spoons, a corkscrew, a tin-opener, and most elementary cooking utensils. Plates and glasses can be borrov almost everywhere. Those who are fairly easy to please and who wisl travel lightly, can reduce the size of their provision basket by us the rice, fish, and eggs of the country as auxiliary to what they ca with them. When starting off for the first time, it is best to err on side of taking too much. Many who view Japanese food hopef u from a distance, have found their spirits sink and their tempers eml tered when brought face to face with its unsatisfying .actuality.

Milk may now sometimes be obtained at the towns along the Tokaii Nakasendo, and other chief highways, but should not be counted • The yolk of an egg beaten up is considered by many to be a gc substitute for it in tea or coffee.

It is essential to avoid all water into which rice-fields may ha drained. In the plains all water should be filtered and boiled bef( drinking.

The following Japanese articles of food are considered palatable most foreigners:

Miso-ahiru^ bean-soup.

Sakana no shio-yahi^ broiled fish.

SaJcana no tempura^ a fish fritter.

Saki^ a strong liquor made from rice and generally taken hot.

Tamago-yaki, a sort of omelette.

Tori-nabe, chicken cut up small and stewed.

dshi-nahej beef similarly treated.

Unagi-meshi, rice with eels done in soy.

12. — Means op Locomotion ; Luggaqe.

Take the railway wherever available. On those plains which i railway yet traverses, take a jinrikisha. Avoid the native basl (carriage), if you have either nerves to shatter or bones to shake, ar be very chary of burdening yourself with a horse and saddle of yoi own in the interior, as all sorts of troubles are apt to arise with regai to shoeing, run-away grooms (bettos)^ etc. Such, in a few words, our advice, founded on long personal experience. Other possible coi veyances are pack-horses (but the Japanese pack-saddle is torture cows, the kago — a species of small palanquin, uncomfortable at first, bi not disliked by many old residents, — and lastly chairs borne by foi coolies; but these have but recently been introduced from China, an are only found at Miyanoshita, Nikko, and a very few other plact much resorted to by foreigners. The pleasantest sort of trip for healthy man is that in which jinrikisha-riding and walking are con bined. In the hilly districts which make Japan so picturesque, walk ing is the only possible, or at least the only pleasant method c progression. The luggage is then taken on a pack-horse or on coolie*8 back.

Persons intending to go at all off the beaten tracks are advised t compress their luggage within narrow limits. This is specially necee sary in the thinly populated mountainous parts of the country, wher<

Means of Locomotion ; lAtggage, 11

one coolie — not improbably a grandfather superannuated from regular ■work — is often the sole means of transport that a village can pro- duce, all the horses being generally with their masters miles away in the mountains.

It is always best to avoid large boxes and portmanteaus, and to divide the luggage into two or three smaller pieces for convenience in piling on a coolie's hod or for balancing the two sides of a pack-horse. The. Japanese wicker baskets called yanagi-gori are much recommend- ed, as cheap, portable, capacious, and contractable. The yanagi-gori (sometimes called hori for short) consists of an oblong basket, with a second fitting over it to any depth as a cover, and is consequently convenient, not only for clothes and books, but for provisions, since the size of the basket can be diminished as the stores are consumed, without there being any empty space for the remaining articles to rattle about in. A pair of these yanagi-gori — one for personal efiEects, the other for provisions — should suffice to him who intends to rough it. They should be provided with a large wrapper of oil-paper against the rain, and fastened either with cords which can be pro- cured anywhere, or with stout leather straps.

As to Japanese roads, no general opinion can be expressed. Some- times excellent when first made, they are often kept in insufficient repair. Travellers must therefore not be astonished if they come across roads, which, though mentioned in this work as good for jinrikishas, have become almost impassable even for foot passengers — the result of a single season of frosts and typhoons. The changes in this respect are in proportion to the violence of the Japanese climate. It is further- more probable that the distances given in our itineraries differ slightly in some cases from the actual truth, notwithstanding all the care taken to obtain as accurate information as possible. It is hoped, however, that euch discrepancies will never be so great as seriously to affect the rat- veller's plans. An apparent error of \ mile will occasionally be observed in the total mileage of the itineraries. This arises from the fact that the mileage of each stage of a journey being given only within \ mile of the actual distance, the fractional errors thus arising, though balanced and allowed for as carefully as possible, sometimes unavoidably ac- cumulate. * On the other hand, the so-called total mileage is obtained, not by adding up the mileage column, but by direct calculation (also within \ mile) of the value of the total in ri and cho.

On the railroads, men desirous of practising economy will find the second class quite good enough, and those who wish to make a near acquaintance with Japanese life will meet in the 2nd class with far more subject-matter for their investigations. But ladies are advised to travel 1st class, as smoking is general, and the ways of the Japanese lower middle class with regard to clothing, the management of children, and other matters, are not altogether as our ways. On some lines there is a non-smoking 2nd class compartment. There are as yet no sleeping-cars. The Railway Regulations permit holders of tickets for distances of over 50 miles to break their journey at the more important places. Luggage is checked as in the United States, each passenger being allowed to carry a liberal amount free of charge.

12 Introdution : — Places Best Worth Vistting* Purchases.

13. — Places Best Worth Visiting.

The choice of places to be visited must depend greatly on whether scenes of » natural beauty or the works of man form the chief object which the tourist has in view, and also to a certain extent on considera- tions of health. Those who desire to investigate Buddhist temples will find what they want in fullest perfection at Kyoto, at Nara, at Tokyo, and at Nikko. The chief shrines of Shintoism are at Ise, and at Kitsuki in the province of Izumo.

Those in search of health and comparative coolness during the summer months, to be obtained without much " roughing," are advised to try Miyanoshita, Nikko, orlkao in the Tokyo district, Arima in, the Kobe district, or (if they come from China and wish to remain as near home as possible) Unzen in the Nagasaki district All the above, except Ise and Kitsuki, may be safely recommended to ladies. Yezo is specially recommended to persons residing in Japan proper, and desiring thorough change of air. At Hakodate they will get sea- bathing, at Sapporo they will get fishing if they go in June or early in July. But Japan is more especially the happy hunting-ground of the lover of the picturesque. Every variety of scenery, from the gracefully lovely to the ruggedly grand, is here to be found. Of the former character are the neighbourhood of Yokohama (Kamakura, Enoshima, Kanazawa), the whole Hakone district, Fuji and its surrounding ring of lakes, Nikko, Haruna, the Inland Sea, the Kiso valley, North- Eastern Kyushu, Matsushima in the North of the Main Island, and many more. Rugged and sublime in their character are the Etchu-Hida range, Koma-ga-take in Koshu, the whole enormous mass of mountains lying between the rivers Fujikawa and Tenryu-gawa, and the district near the North- Western coast including Mounts Chokai, Gwassan, and Haguro-san. But the travelling amidst these rough mountains is itself rough in the extreme. None but thoroughly healthy men, inured to hardship, should attempt it.

As for what is called " seeing Japanese life,*' the best plan is to avoid the Open Ports. You will see theatres, wrestling, dancing-girls, and the new Japan of European toilettes and uniforms, political lectures, clubs, colleges, hospitals, and Methodist chapels, in the big cities. The old peasant life still continues almost unchanged in the districts not opened up by railways.

14. — PuBCHASES, Objects op Aet.

Travellers will find the greatest facilities for purchases of every des- cription in the large stores of Yokohama and^Kobe. They will also find much to attract them in Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, and Nagasaki. The names of the best shops are given under each of these towns. Though now sometimes sold in large stores, Japanese objects of art are not produced in large workshops. In old days, when the best pieces were made, few masters employed as many as half a dozen workmen in addition to the members of their own family, and chefs d^ceuvre often originated in humble dwellings, where perhaps a single artisan laboured in the most primitive style assisted by one or two children. At th6

Objects of Art. Shipment of Curios* 1^

present day, foreign influence is causing the gradual introduction of commercial principles, larger manufactures, and splendidly decked out shop-windows, but as yet only in two or three of the larger towns. Even there, the best things must often be sought in narrow lanes.

It was also formerly, and is still to some extent, characteristic of th& Japanese tradesman and artisan -artist to object to bringing out hi» finest specimens at once. Tlie rule is that several visits are necessary before he will display his choicest articles, and that even then a long- time must be spent in bargaining. A few establishments of the more modern sort have fixed prices.

Japan is now almost denuded of old curios. Some have found their way into the museums of the country, while priceless collections have crossed the sea to Europe and America. But many of the production* of the present day are eminently beautiful, more especially the em- broideries and cloisonrd. It is not possible within the limits of a travelling Handbook to enter into a disquisition on Japanese art — its- origin, its characteristics, and the great names that adorn its history. A whole library on this subject has come into existence within the last decade, and the views of connoisseurs differ widely even on points of prime importance. We must content ourselves with mentioning th& names of certain art-forms unknown in Europe, and for most of which no appropriate English equivalents exist. The objects embodying these art-forms will constantly come under the traveller's notice if he frequents the curio stores. Such are

The Inro, a medicine box in segments, generally made of lacquer. The segments are held together by means of a cord, to one extremity of which a netsuke is often attached.

The Kakemono or banging scroll, generally painted, sometimes em- broidered.

The Koro, or incense-burner, generally in bronze or porcelain.

The Mdkimono, or scroll, not meant to be hung up. It is used chiefly for manuscripts which are often beautifully illustrated.

The Netsuke^ a kind of ornament for the tobacco-pouch, carved out of wood or ivory. Larger carvings in the same materials are often miscalled netsuke by foreign dealers.

The OkimonOj a general name for various snaall ornaments having no special use, but intended to be placed in an alcove or on a cabinet.

We may also mention various gear appertaining to the Japanese sword and often beautifully wrought in metals and in alloys, of which latter the best known are shihu-iehi and shakudOj both formed of a basis of copper with varying admixtures of silver and gold. Specially noteworthy among these articles are the tmbay or guard, and the menuki, small ornaments fixed one on each side of the hilt, and held in place by the silk cord which binds together the various parts of the bundle.

15. — Shipment of Curios*

A reference to the local Directories (or Hong^ Lists, as they ar& also called) will furnish the names of those firms in Yokohama and Kobe which, from tiooe to time, make a business of shipping travellers^

14 Introduction : — Shootbig, Fishing,

purchases to Europe, America, and elsewhere. As a rule, too; the foreign firms which deal in curios will undertake to forward anything^ to destination. Remember, when sending a box for shipment to a shipping firm, to nail it down but slightly, as it will he opened and examined at the Custom-House. The shipping firm shoirld be fur- nished with a detailed list of the contents and their value, and be requested to see to the box being secured in a more solid manner after examination.

16. — Shooting.

In the mountainous districts of Japan, especially in the Northern por- tion of the Main Island, there are plenty of deer and boar, while ia Yezo many bears still remain. Duck of various kinds, the green pheasant, quail, woodcock, snipe, and hares, are to be found in the plains and on the lower ranges of hills bordering the flat country, while on somewhat higher ground the copper-pheasant has its abode in the thickest cover. Japan, with its rich plains and hills giving ample shelter to game, is naturally a good sporting country.. It would be still better if a law were enforced giving protection to birds and ani- mals during the breeding season. Be this as it may, heavy restrictions are placed upon the foreign sportsman. The license which he has> to obtain at a cost of $10 yearly only entitles him to shoot within a radius of 10 ri (24J miles) from the Treaty Ports and' witlun an irregular boundary of less area round Tokyo. But the game having been almost entirely shot out within this area, the majority of resident sportsmen have abandoned the field. In the event of existing conditions being replaced by others which will allow foreigners to travel and shoot all over Japan, there will be excellent sport for one provided with good dogs and not afraid of hard walking. Meanwhile, a gun-case k a useless piece of baggage to the foreign visitor.

The shooting season begins on the 15th October, and ends oo the 14th April. Shooting licenses may be obtained at the. Treaty Ports from the Prefecture (Kencho). Applications by residents in Tokyo for shooting licenses must in the first instance be made to the Police Bureau (Keishi-cho) by letter, stating the full name, agey and residence of the applicant, who must afterwards apply in person for the license at the Chief Police OfiQce, on being informed that it has been issued. The applicant has to enter into a written engagement to observe certain regulations, the violation of which involves the forfeiture of tlie license and the payment of a fine of $10 more. Shooting beyond Treaty Limits is strictly prohibited.

17. — ^Fishing.

Locality, Fly-fishing may be said to be confined to that portion of the East Coast of Japan, North of Tokyo, where the water is sufficient- ly cold for salmon and trout. In Yezo, the river Yurap on the East Coast, and the Siiiribetsu on the West Coast are recommended. Both are in season about June. In former years good trout fishing was obtainable in the river Toyobira near Sapporo ; but owing to the refuse from the flax mills now established there being allowed to discharge into the stream, only few fish run past it. Most of the other rivers

Miscellaneous Hints. 15

of Y€Zo and of the Northern provinces of the Main Island contain troat. The lakes of Yezo also abound in ao-masu and ami-mcLsu^ the former a pink, the latter a white-fleshed fish. These take the fly greedily, and are caught up to 2 lbs. in weight. Near Fukuoka in the province of Rikuokn is a good stretch of water, which would probably ne best worked by staying at Ichinohe. These places will be included in the Northern Railway line when the latter is completed. Farther South, near Furusawa and close to the railway, is a fishing river called the Nagagawa, and in the N. W. of the Main Island the rivers Iwaki and Noshiro are believed to be worth a visit. Trout are also found in Lakes Biwa and Chu/enji. Lake Hakone also has been recently stocked. Fly-fishers can have good hope of sport during June, July, and the early part of Au<»u8t. ,

Fish, There are two classes of sporting fish, — the shake, or salmon as known in Europe, and the masu {Salmo japonicus). The shake is a full-sized salmon, and ascends the rivers in great quantities during autumn and early winter. All the Northern rivers hold these fish, which in Yezo are so plentiful that they fall an easy prey to crows and bears. Many salmon must weigh ns much as 30 lbs. when caught ; but tliey Hfford no sport to the angler, since like salmon in other Pacific waters, they neither rise to a fly nor run to a spinning bait. At new year tlie shops in Tokyo are full of smoked shake^ which have been sent down from the North.

Of the masu, there are several varieties ; bat they are all of the trout or salmon-trout description, and they are all sporting fish. The true masu run up the rivers from May to August, their ascent depend- ing on the temperature of the water. Between 56° and 65° these fish are in the best condition. Below 50° they are not taken. An 8 lb. fish !« a lar^re one, the usual size being 5 lb. or 6 lb.

Tackle, Ordinary salmon tackle is used, with flies of medium salmon size and plenty of bright colour, especially orange and yellow. The fl}' is but rarely taken on the surface, and should therefore be well drowned. A rod of ahout 16 ft. is most convenient, as the fish are strong and the pools often large. Wading trousers are useful. Spin- ning with a spoon-bait or a phantom minnow is often successful. In Lake Cliuzenji, the fish are caught during the summer months by trolling from a boat with 60 or 70 yards of line heavily leaded. The bait used is a kind of Colorado spoon, and can be obtained from Nishi- inura in the Ginza, Tokyo, where also Japiinese lines can be had to supplement the angler's gear for this kind of fishing.

Accommodation. Except in Yezo, fair accommodation can be had everywhere. In Yezo generally one must be prepared for rough quarters, and many districts there are quite uninhabited, so that a tent must form part of the sportsman's outfit if he is to be free in his movements.

18. — Miscellaneous Hints.

Take plenty of flea-powder or camphor ; also, if going off the beaten tracks, take soap, candles, and carbolic acid — the latter to counteract ' the unpleasant odours that often pervade Japanese inns.

16 Introduction : — Miscellaneous Hints,

Tnke towels, a pair of sheets, and a pillow, or at least a pillow-case to put on the extempore pillow which the tea-house people will arrange. Instead of loose sheets, souie prefer to sew two sheets together to form a bag which is tied round the sleeper's neck.

Entrust your passport to your guide or servant. This will obviate interruptions from police officers at inconvenient hours.

If your servant seems honest and intelligent, entrust him with money for current expenses. This will save a world of petty bother and vexa- tion as to change, bargaining, and such matters.

If you have much money with you, entrust it to the host of each respectable hotel you stop at, and get his receipt for it.

Start early, and do not insist on travelling after dark. You will thus most easily obtain good coolies or hor^ses for the day's journey. By arriving at your destination before sunset, you will be likely to find the bath as yet unused, and will thus avoid tlie trouble and delay en- tailed by the necessity of having other water heated. You will also have a choice of rooms.

When planning out your da)^*s journey, allow an hour for each ri to be done on foot, which should be sufficient to cover stoppages and unavoidable dela3^s. Ten ri (24^ miles) is considered by the Japanese a proper day's work.

However inconvenient to yourself, never refuse the coolies' request to be allowed to stop for food, as they can do no work on an empty stomach.

The Japanese, whose grande passion is bathing, use water at higher temperatures — 110°-120° Fahrenheit — than European physicians, con- sider healthful. No one, however, will be injured by taking baths of between *100° and 106° Fahrenheit, unless he has a weak heart or is liable to congestion. Owing to some unexplained peculiarity of the climate, hot baths are found by almost all Europeans in Japan to suit them better than cold. It is advisable to pour hot water over the head from time to time, and strong persons may advantageously end up with a cold douche. In any case there is no danger of catching cold. The hotter the bath, the greater the impunity with which one may afterwards expose one's self to the cold air. The reason why people at borne entertain the notion that hot baths give a chilly reaction, is that they do not take them hot enough, or do not immerse themselves up to the neck. The Japanese have the habit, to us disagreeable, of :getting into the same bath, one after another, or even at the same time.

Massage is much practised in Japan, and is a capital restorative from fatigue after mountain climbing. The services of a blind sliam- |>ooer {amma san) may be obtained at almost every inn.

Never enter a Japanese house with your boots on. The mats take the place of our chairs and sofas. What should we say to a man who trod on our chairs and sofas with his dirty boots ?

It is next to impossible to get windows opened at night in Japanese inns. The reason is that it is considered unsafe to leave anything open on account of thieves, and there is a police regulation to enforce closing.

In the event of trouble arising with regard to accommodation, the

Language. 17

procuring of coolies, etc., always apply to the police, who are almost invariabl}^ polite and serviceable.

Take visiting cards with you. Japanese with whom you become acquainted will often want to exchange cards.

Above all, be constantly polite and conciliatory in your demeanour towards 'the people. Whereas the lower classes at home are apt to resent suuve manners, and to imagine that he who addresses them politely wishes to deceive them or get something out of them, every Japanese, however humble, expects courtesy, being himself courteous.

Never show any impatience. You will only get stared at or laughed at behind your back, and matters will not move any the quicker in this land where an hour more or less is of no account. The word tadaima, which the dictionaries, in tiieir simplicity, render by " im- mediately," may mean any time between now and Christmas. Storm- ing will not mend matters, when you find (to take one instance out of a hundred) that your jinrikisha coolies wish to stop for a meal just after you have started and have been calculating that you will arrive at such and such a place at such and such an hour. It is best to resign oneself at the beginning, once for all. While waiting patiently, you have an opportunity of studying Japanese life. Neither be moved to anger because you are asked personal questions. To ask such questions is the Japanese way of showing kindly interest.

19. — Language.

Thft Japanese language, though extremely difficult to learn correctly, is easy to acquire a smattering of ; and even a smattering will add im- mensely to the pleasure of a tour in the country, by bringing the traveller into personal relations with the people, and by delivering him from the constant tutelage of guides and interpreters.

Remember, in pronouncing Japanese, that the consonants are to be sounded approximately as in English, the vowels as in Spanish or Italian, that is to say : —

a as in father i as in pin

e as in pet o as in pony

u as in put

U is sometimes almost inaudible, as in arima8(u), de8(u), 8(u)ko8hi, etc. W is often omitted after k or g^ as kashi^ " cake," for kwashL

There is scarcely any tonic accent ; in other words, all the syllables are pronounced equally, or nearly so. But care must be taken to dis- tinguish short o and u from long o and u. G is always hard as in " give," never soft as in " gin " ; but in Eastern Japan it is pro- nounced like ng when in the middle of a word.

The adjective precedes its noun, and the genitive precedes the nomi- native. Prepositions follow their noun, and are therefore really " post- positions." The verb comes at the end of the sentence. There is no distinction between singular and plural, or between the difEerent persons in the verb.

The following vocabulary of words and phrases connected with food and travelling will be found useful. Those ambitious of learning more

18

In&odiiction : — Language,

can provide themselves witli Chamberlain's " Handbook of Colloquial Japanese." Satow and IshibaHhi's English-Japnnese pocket dictionary is excellent. Hepburn's pocket dictionary is to be recommended for Japanese-English.

Vocabulary.

Bag

fukuro

Fruit

mizn-gwashi

Baggage

nimotsu

Grapes

hudo

Bath

furo

Guide

annm-sha

Bathroom

furo-ha

Horse

uma

Beans

mame

Hotel

yadoya

Bed

nedai

Ice

'kori

Bed -room

nema^ nebeya

Inn

yadoya

Beer

biiru

Kitchen

daidokoro

Bell

kane

Knife

hocho

Blanket

furanken, ketto

Lemon

yvzu

Boat

fune

Lemonade

ramune

Boatman

sendo

Luggage

nimotsu

Bottle

tokkuri

Lunch

hiru gozen

Box

hako

Mat

tatami

Brazier

hihachi

Match

haya-tsukegi

Bread

pan

Matting

goza

Breakfast

asa^han

Moat

niku

Bridge

hashi

Melon (musk-)

makuvoa-uri

Cake

kxjoashi

„ (water-)

suikwa

Carriage

hasha

Milk

chichi

Charcoal

8umi

Money

kane^ kinsu

Chicken

niwatori

Mosquito-net

kaya

Chopsticks

hashi

Mustard

karashi

Coachman

gyosha

Napkin

kuchi-fuki

Coffee

kohiy kahe

Oil

abura

Coolie

ninsoku

Omnibus

nori-ai-hasha

Cucumber

ki-uri

Onions

negi

Dining-room

shokudo

Orange

mikan

Dinner (late)

yushoku

Oyster

kaki

Door

to

Pass (between

tdge

Downstairs

shita

mountains)

Driver

gyosha

Passport

(ryokd-)menjd

Duck (tame)

ahiru

Peach

momo

Duck (wild)

karao

Pear

na.sh.i

Eels

unagi

Peas

endo-mame

Egg

tamago

Pepper

kosho

Egg-plant

nasu

Persimmon

kaki

Feast

gochiso

Pheasant

kiji

Ferry

funa-watashi

Plum

sumomo

Fish

sakana

Post-office

yubin-kyoku

Food

tahemono

Potatoes

imo

Food (foreign)

yoshoku

„ (sweet)

satsuma-imo

Fork

niku-sashi

Quail

uzura

Fowl

tori

Railway

tetsudo

Language.

19

Bailway train

kisha

Tomato

ai(;a-na«2i

Bice (boiled)

meshif gozen

Tooth-pick

koydji

Boom

heya^ zaahiki

Towel

te-nugui

Salmon

shake

Train

kisha

Salmon trout

masu

Tramway

tetsvdo-basha

Salt

shio

Trout

aiy yamame

Sardine

iwashi

Tunnel

ana

Ship

fune

Turnip

kabu

Snipe

shigi

Upstairs

nikai

Soap

shahon

Vegetables

yasai

Soap

soppu

Vinegar

su

Soy

shoyu

Waiter I

boy!

Spinach

horensd

Waitress I

msan !

Spoon

saji

Water (cold)

mizu

Stamp (postage) yubin-gitte^ inshi

Water (hot)

yu, 0 yu

Steamer

jokisen

Water-closet

benjOf chozuba

Strawberries

ichigo

Window

mado

Sagar

Sato

Wine

budoshu

Sapper

yumeski

I

watakmhi

Tea

chay 0 cha

You

anatxiy omae

Tea-hoase

chaya

He

ano otoko

Telegram

dempo

She ,

ano onna

Telegraph-office denshin-hyohu

It

sore

Ticket

kippu

We

watakushi

Ticket (return) ohen-gippu 1

They

ano hitO'tachi

1 hiiotsu

No. 1 ichi'ban

2 futatsu

, 2 ni-ban

3 mitsu

, 3 sam-ban

4 yotsu

, 4 yo-ban

5 itsutau

, 5 go-ban^

6 mutsu

, 6 roku-ban

7 nanatsu \

, 7 shichi-ban

8 yatsu

, 8 hachi-ban

9 kokonotsu

, 9 ku'ban

10 to

1

, 10 ju-ban

20 ni-ju

50 go'jii

i 80

hachiju

30 san-ju

60 roku

ju 90

ku'ju

40 8hi-ju

70 shich

i-ju 100

hyaku

$ 1 ichi-en

$ 2 ni-en

10 cents jis-sen

Ist class jbto

20 cfents ni-jis-aen

2nd „

chuto

30 cents san-jis-sen

3rd „

kato

Many of our words have no Japanese equivalents, because the things for which they stand are not known in Japan. Such are, for instance, jam, lamb, tin-opener. The following Japanese words, for which there are no exact English equivalents, are constantly heard in travelling :

Bento, luncheon carried with one. Bentd-bako, a box to hold such luncheon.

20

Introduction : — Language.

Betto, a rnnning groom.

Kago, a kind of basket or litter in which travellers are carried.

Yanagi-gori, a very usefal sort of trunk made of wicker-work.

Useful Sentences.

Please come here. That will do. Thank yotr. How do you do ? What o'clock is it ? Good night. Don't do that. That won't do. Is that all right ? Please excuse me. You had better go and ask. Where is it ? I don't know. Wait a little. Go more quickly. I mean to start at 7 o'clock to- morrow morning. Is the luggage ready ?

Please take care.

Is nothing forgotten ?

Please order the jinrikishas.

Please order three jinrikishas with two men each.

We will start as soon as every- thing is ready.

What 18 this place called ?

What is the name of that

mountain ? How far is it to the next town ?

Please to accept this small offer- ing lis tea-money.

Many thanks for your trouble.

I will rest a little.

Please engage a coolie to carry the luggage.

What is the charge per ri ?

Which is the best hotel ?

Have you any rooms ? Have you any beer ?

Oide noMLu

Mb yoroshiii

Arigaio.

Konnichi toa I

Nan-doki desu ha f

0 yasumt nasai.

So shicha ikenai.

Sore ja ikenai.

Sore de yoroshii ka f

Gomen nasai.

Elite kuru ga it,

Doko desuf

Shirimasen,

Sukoshi mate.

Hayaku ! hayaku !

Myo-asa shichi-ji m, shuttateu ski-

masu, Nimotsu no shitaku toa^ yoroshii

kaf Ki wo tsukete kvdasai. Wasure-mono wa nai ka f Kuruma no shitaku too, shite ku-

dasai. Ni-nin-biki ujo, san-cho atsuraete

kvdasai. Shitaku shidaif dekakemasho.

Koko wa^ nan to iu tokoro desu

kaf A no yama wa^ nan to iimasu ka f

Koko hara^ saki no shuku made^

ri-su wa dono kurai desu f Kore vHi sukoshi desu ga, o char

dai desu, O sewa ni narimashita, Sukoshi yasumimasho. Nimotsu no ninsoku wo, yatotte

kudasau Ichi-ri ikura no wari desu ka f Yado wa, nani-ya ga yoroshii

kaf Zashiki wa^ arimaMu ka f Biiru loa, arimasu ka f

Tlie Shinto Religion,

21

Have you change for a dollar ?

This room will do.

Is the bath ready ?

Let me know when it is ready.

Can you give us European food ?

Please let me look at it.

Are there any mosquitoes here ?

I suppose you haven't bedsteads,

have you ? Please let me have more quilts.

I am going by the first train

to-morrow morning. At what o'clock does the first

train start ? Please wake me early. Shall we be in time r I don't want a lamp. Please bring a candle. Where is the W.G.? Please show me the way. Where is the ticket- office ?

Where is the Telegraph Office ?

(Give me) one 1st class ticket to

Nikko. Please book this laggage for

Nikko. Where do we change carriages ?

How many hours does it take to

get to Nagoya ? Please bring the account. Please give me some water.

Please give me some more. Please take away these tilings. How much is it ? That is too dear. You must go down a little in price.

Ichi-en no tsuri wa^ arimasu ha f Kono zashiki de yoroshii. Furo ga dekimashita ha f Dehitara^ shirashite hudusai, Ybshohu ga dehimasu ha f Mifiete hudaaaL

Kono hen toa, ha ga imasu ha f Nedai wa arimasumai^ — ne t

Shihi-huton wOj motto hiite huda-

sai. Myonichi toa^ ichi-han-hisha de

ihimasu. Ichi-banhisha wa^ nan-ji desu f

Hayahu ohoshite htcdasai. Ma ni aimasu ha f Rampu wa^ irimasen. jRosohu wo^ motte hite hudasai. Benjo loa, dochira desu t Chotto annai shite hiukbsai, Kippu wo uru tohoro wa^ doho

desu ha f Denshin-hyohu wa^ dochira desu

ha f Kihkb made, jotb ichi-mai.

Kore dahe no nimotsu wo^ Nihho

mxide. Doho no ^^ station" de nori-hae-

masu ha f Nagoya made^ nan-Ji-han hahari-

masuf Doha^ hanjo-gahi vx>. Mizu wo ippai (motte hite huda-

sai). Motto hudasai. Kore wo sagete hudasai. Ikwra desu ? Sore wa tahai, Suhoshi 0 maJce nasai.

20. — The Shinto Religion.

Thb Japanese have two religions, Siiintd and Biiddiiism — the former indigenous, the latter imported from India vi& China and Korea ; but it must not be supposeil that the nation is therefore divided into two distinct sections, each professing to observe one of tiiese exclusively. On the contrary, the two are so thoroughly interfused in practice, that

22 Introduction : — The Shinto Religion,

the n amber of pare Shintdists and pure Buddhists must be extreir sma]l. The only exception is the province of Satsuma, from wl the Buddhist priesthood has been excluded ever since some of tl number betrayed the local chieftain into the hands of Hideyo Every Japanese from his birth is placed by his parents under the ] tection of. some Shinto deity, whose foster-child he becomes, w the funeral rites are conducted, with few exceptions, according to ceremonial of the Buddhist sect to which his family belongs. I only in recent years that burial according to the ancient ritual of Shintoists has been revived, after an almost total disuse during sc twelve centuries. This apparently anomalous condition of things ii be explained by the fact that the Shinto religion demands little m of its adherents than a visit to the local temple on the occasion of annual festival, and does not profess to teach any theory of the dest of man, or of moral duty, thus leaving the greater part of the fi free to the priests of Buddha, with their apparatus of theologi dogma aided by a splendid ritual and gorgeous decorations. Mu tudinous as are its own deities, Buddiiism found no difficulty receiving those of the indigenous belief into its pantheon, this cath city having been previously displayed with regard to Hindoo deil and other mythological personalities. In most cases it was pretenc that the native gods were merely avatars of some Indian deity ; e thus it was possible for those who became converts to the forei doctrine to continue to believe in and offer up prayers to their anci gods as before.

Shinto is a compound of ancestor-worship and nature-worship, has gods and goddesses of the wind, the ocean, fire, food, and pei lence, of mountains and rivers, of certain special mountains, cerfc rivers, certain trees, certain temples, — eight hundred myriads of deit in all. Chief among these is Ama-terasu, the radiant Goddess of 1 Sun, born from the left eye of Izanagi, the Creator of Japan, wh from his right eye was produced the God of the Moon, and from 1 nose the violent God Susa-no-o, who subjected his sister to vario indignities and was chastised accordingly. The Sun-Goddess was t ancestress of the line of heaven-descended Mikados, who have reign in unbroken succession from the beginning of the world, and s themselves living deities. Hence the Sun-Goddess is honoured abo all the rest, her shrine at Ise being the Mecca of Japan. Other shrin hold other gods, the deified ghosts of princes and heroes of eld, sor commanding a wide popularity, others known only to narrow loc fame, most of them tended by hereditary families of priests believ to be lineal descendants either of the god himself or of his chi servant. From time to time new names are added to the pantheo The present reign has witnessed several instances of such apotheos Indeed, the present reign stands out as a season of special offici favour to the Shinto cult, numbers of temples that had for centuri been devoted to a hybrid between Shinto and Buddhism, known Ryobu'Shinto^ having been, as it is termed, " purified " from Buddhi "contamination," and handed over to the exclusive keeping of tl Shintoists. This so-called purification has consisted in the effacing i the Buddhist architectural and other artistic embellishments whi(

^'>5^

^<^

The Shinto Religion. 23

made the temples most worth visiting, and not infrequently in the destruction of the entire edifice.

Shinto has ecarcely any regular services in which the people take part, and its priests (kannushi) are not distinguishable by their ap- pearance from ordinary laymen. Only when engaged in offering the morning and evening sacrifices do they wear a peculiar dress of their own. This consists of a long loose gown with wide sleeves, fastened at the waist with a girdle, and sometimes a black cap bound round the bead with a broad white fillet. The priests are not bound by any vows of celibacy, and are free to adopt another career whenever they choose. At some temples young girls fill the office of priestesses; but their duties do not extend beyond the performance of the panto- mimic dances known as hagyra^ and assistance in the presentation of the daily offerings. They likewise are under no vows, and marry as a matter of course. The services consist in the presentation of offerings of rice, fish, fruits, vegetables, the flesh of game, animals, and rice- beer, and in the recital of certain formal addresses, partly laudatory and partly in the nature of petitions. The style of composition em- ployed is that of a very remote period, and would not be comprehended by the common people, even if the latter were in the habit of taking any part in the ritual. With moral teaching, Shinto does not profess to concern itself. ' Follow your natural impulses, and obey the Mikado's decrees :' such is the sum of its theory of human duty. The sermon forms no part of its institutions, nor are the rewards and punishments of a future life used as incentives to right conduct. The continued existence of the dead is believed in, but whether it is a condition of joy or pain is nowhere revealed.

Shinto is a Chinese word, meaning the * Way of the Gods,' and was first adopted after the introduction of Buddhism to distinguish the native beliefs and practices from those of the foreign religion.

The architecture of Shinto temples is extremely simple, and the material used is plain white wood with a thatch of chamaBcyparis bark. The annexed plan of the Great Temple of Izumo {Izumo no 0-yaiihiro\ taken from a native drawing sold to pilgrims, and printed on Japanese paper (mino-gami) after the usual fashion of such me- mentos, will serve to exemplify this style of architecture. Few Shinto temples, however, are quite so elaborate as this, the second holiest in the Empire. We find then : —

1. The Main Shrine (honsha or konden)^ which is divided into two chambers. The rear chamber contains the emblem of the god (mi- iama'Shiro) — a mirror, a sword, a curious stone, or some other object — and is always kept closed, while in the antechamber stands a wand from which depend strips of white paper intended to represent the cloth offerings of ancient times. The mirror which is seen in the front of not a few temples was borrowed from the Shingon sect of Buddhists, and has nothing to do with the Shinto Sun-Goddess, as is often supposed.

2. An Oratory (haiden) in front of the main building, with which it is sometimes, but not in the case of the Izumo temple, connected by

3. A Corridor or Gallery (ai-no-ma). A gong often hangs over

24 Introdtu:tion : — Japanese Buddhism^

the entrance of the Oratory, for the worshipper to attract the attention of the god, and beneath stands a large box to receive contribations.

4. A Cistern (mitarashi) at which to wasli the hands before prayer.

5. A low Wall, or rather Fence (tama-gakij lit. jewel hedge), en- closing the chief temple buildings.

6. A second Enclosing Fence, often made of boards and therefore termed ita-gakL

7. A peculiar Gateway (Jtorii) at the entrance to the grounds. Some- times there are several of these gateways. Their origm and significa- tion are alike unknown.

8. A Temple Office (shamusho)^ where the business of the temple is transacted, and where some of the priests often reside.

9. Secondary Slirines (sessha or maasha) scattered about the grounds, and dedicated not to the deity worshipped at the main shrine, but to other members of the crowded pantheon.

10. A Library (bunko). This item is generally absent.

11. A Treasure-house (hdzo),

12. One or more Places for Offerings (shinaenjo).

13. A Gallery (ktoairo).

14. A Dancing-stage {bugaku-dai). A more usual form of this is the kagura-dOf or stage for the performance of the kagura, an ancient symbolic dance.

15. A Stable in which is kept the Sacred Horse (jimme), usually an albino animal.

16. An Assembly Hall. This is generally missing.

17. Gates.

Frequently there is some object of minor sanctity, such as a holy well, a curious tree, the image of the bull on which the god Tenjin rode, etc.

The curiously projecting ends of the rafters on the roof of the honsha are termed chigu . The cigar-shaped logs are termed hatsuo- gu Both these ornaments are derived from the architecture of the primitive Japanese hut, the katsuogi having formerly served to keep in place the tw^o trunks forming the ridge of the roof.

Shinto temples built during the period of the predominance of Buddhism often show such traces of Buddhist influence as the pagoda, the handsome mmmon^ or outer gate, and elaborate carvings utterly repugnant to the Shinto purists of the present century. The two figures with bows and arrows, seated in niclies right and left of the gate to keep guard over the approach to the temple, are called Zuijin, or "attendants," more popularly Ya-daijin^ or "ministers with arrows." The stone figures of dogs — or lions as some suppose them to be — which are often found in the temple grounds, are called Ama-inu and Koma-inu, lit. " the heavenly dog " and " the Korean dog." They are credited with the power of driving off demons.

21. — Japanese Buddhism.

Buddhism, in its Chinese form, first entered Japan via Korea in the 6th century of the Christian era, the first Japanese pagoda having been erected about A.D. 584 by one Soga-no-Iname. The Constantine of

Japanese Buddhism. 25

Japanese Buddhism was Shotoka Taislii) prince regent under the Em- press Suiko (A.D. 593-621), from whose time many of the most celebrated temples date. Tiience for ward, though Shinto was never entirely suppressed, Buddhism became for centuries the favourite national religion, appealing as it did to the deepest instincts of the human heart, both by its doctrine and by it§ ritual, in a way which Shinto could never emulate. Buddhism was adopted by the very Mikudos, descendants of the Shinto Goddess of the Sun. During the 6th, 7th, and 8th centuries, Korean and Chinese monks and nuns visited Japan for purposes of proselytism, much as Christian mission- aries visit it to-day. From the 8th century onwards, it became more usual for the Japanese monks to visit China to study the doctrines of the best-accredited teachers at the fountain-head. From these histori- cal circumstances results the general adhesion of the Japanese Bud- dhists to the Chinese, Northern, or " Greater Vehicle *' school of that religion. It must not be supposed, however, that all Japanese Bud- dhists agree among themselves.^ Buddhism was already over a thousand years old when introduced into this archipelago, and Chinese Buddhism, in particular, was split into numerous sects and sub-sects, whose quar- rels took new root on Japanese soil. Some of the Ciiinese sects of that early day still survive. Such are the Tendai and the Shingon, Others, notably the Nichiren and Shin sects, are later Japanese developments. The following are the chief sects existing at the present day : —

Tendai (3 sub-sects). Shingon (2 sub-sects). Jodo (3 sub- sects).

CRinzai (9 sub-sects), ^n, divided into < Soto.

( Obaku, Shin, MontOy or Ihko (10 sub-sects). Nichiren or Hokke (7 sub-sects). Ji, %

Yuzu Nemhutsu.

The points in dispute between the various sects and sub-sects are highly metaphysical and technical — so much so that Mr. Satow, speak- ing of tlie Shingon sect, asserts that its " whole doctrine is extremely difficult to compreiiend, and more difficult to put into intelligible language." Of another sect he tells us that its *Miighest truths are considered to be incomprehensible, except to those who have attained toBuddhaship."®

Under these circumstances, the general reader will perhaps do best simply to fix in his mind the following few cardinal facts : — that

* The following may serve as a specimen of the difficulties to be encountered in this study :—** The doctrine of the sect is compared to a piece of cloth, in which the teach- ing 6t Shaka is the warp, and the interpretation or private judgment of the individual, corrected by the opinion of other monks, is the woof. It is held that there is a kind of intuition or perception of truth, called 8hin-gy6 suggested by the words of scripture, but transcending them in certainty. This is said to to in harmony with the thought of Shaka. The entirety of doctrine, however, results in one central truth, namely that Nirvftna is the final result of existence, a state in which the thinking substance, while remaining individual, is unaffected by anything external, and is consequently devoid of feeling, thought, or passion. To this the name of Mu-i (Asamskrita) is given, signifying absolute, unconditioned existence. When this is spoken of as an*

r

26 Introdiuition : — Japanese Buddhism.

Buddhism arose in India, some say in the 7th, others in the 11 century before Christ ; that its founder was the Buddha Shaka Mu a prince of the blood royal, who, disenchanted first of worldly pleasu and then of the austerities which he practised for long years in i Himalayan wilderness under the guidance of the most self-denyi anchorites of his time, at length felt dawn on his mind the truth tl all happiness and salvation come from within,-~come from the reoog^i tion of the impermanence of all phenomena, from the extinction desire, which is at the root of life, life itself being at the root of i: happiness and imperfection. Asceticism still reigned supreme ; but was asceticism rather of the mind than of outward observances, ai its ultimate object was absorption into Nirv&na, which some interpi to mean annihilation, while others describe it as a state in which t thinking substance, after numerous transmigrations and progressi sanctification, attains to perfect beatitude in serene tranquillity. Pra tical Buddhism, both in China and Japan, has been unable to mainta itself at these philosophic heights, and by the aid of the doctrine of hobe or " pious frauds," the priesthood has played into the hands of popuL superstition. Here as elsewhere there have been evolved charm amulets, pilgrimages, and gorgeous temple services, in which peop worship not only the Buddha who was himself an agnostic, but h disciples and even such abstractions as Amida, which are mistaken f( actual divine personages.

Annexed is the plan of the temple of Hommonji at Ikegami nes Tokyo, which may be regarded as fairly typical of Japanese Buddhif architecture. The roofing of these temples is generally of tiles, f ormin a contrast to the primitive thatch of their Shinto rivals. The chie features are as follows :

1. The SamTnoTij or two-storied Qate, at the entrance to the tempi grounds.

2. The Ema-ddy or Ex-voto Hall, also sometimes called Gahu-do.

3. The Shdro, or Belfry. #

4. The Hondo^ or Main Temple.

5. The Soshi-ddy or Founder's Hall, dedicated to Nichiren, th founder of the sect to which this temple belongs.

6. The Taho-tOy or Pagoda-shaped Reliquary, containing portions o Nichiren's body.

7. The RinzOy or Revolving Library, containing a complete copy c the Buddhist canon.

8. The Shoiuy also called Zashikiy or Priests* Apartments, includin,

nihilation, it is the annihilation of conditions, not of the snbstanoe, that is mean Pushed to its logical result, this would appear to the ignorant (i.e., the unregeneratf to amount to the same thing as non-existence ; but here we are encountered l^ on of those mysteries which lie at the foundation of all religious beUef , and which mni be accepted without questioning, if there is to be any spiritual religion at all. . follower of Herbert Spencer would probably object that this is an ' ill^timate syn bolical conception.'

" Ignorant and obtuse minds are to be taught by kohent that is by the presentatio of truth under a form suited to their capacity. For superior intellects tihaka, auittin the symbolic teaching appropriate to the vernacular understanding, revealed tb truth in itself. Whoever can apprehend the Ten Abstract Truths in their prpp< order may, after four successive births, attain to perfect Buddhaship, while the ii f erior intelligence can onlv arrive at that condition after 100 Kalptu, or periods of tin ferazuMsending calculation/'— (Satow.)

1/ ^^ '>'v'i^\-i^

LfciasTT. „',««■

List of Gods and Goddesses, 27

9. The Kyaku-den^ or Reception Rooms. 10.. The Hozo^ or Treasure-house.

11. The Daidokoro, or Kitchen.

12. The Chozu-bachif or Cistern for washing the hands before wornhip.

13. The Drum-tower (Koi^o).

14. The Pagoda.

15. Stone Lanterns presented as offerings.

All temples do not possess a Founder's Hall in addition to the Main Temple, and very few possess a Tdhd-to or a Rimo. In the temples of the Monto or Hongwanji sect, wliich always comprise two cliief edifices, the larger of the two unites in itself the functions of Main Temple and Founder's Hall, while the lesser, with which it is connected by a gallery, is sometimes specially dedicated to Amida^ the deity chiefly worshipped by this sect, and is sometimes used for preaching sermons in, whence the name of Jiki-doj or Refectory, alluding to the fact that sermons are food for the soul.

22. — List op Gods and Goddesses.

The following are the most popular deities, Buddhist and Shinto. We place them together in one list, because all through Japanese history there has been not a little confusion between the two religions : —

Aizen My do, a deity represented with a fierce expression, a flaming halo, three eyes, and six arms. Nevertheless he is popularly looked on as the god of love. Andersoti describes him as ^* a transformation of AtchalS the Insatiable."

Ama-terasu^ lit. "the Heaven-Shiner," that is, the Sun-Goddess Born from the left eye of the Creator Izanagi, when the latter was performing his ablutions on returning from a visit to his dead wife Izanami in Hades, the Sun-Goddess was herself the ancestress of the luiperial Family of Japan. The most striking episode in her legend is that in whicli she js insulted by her brother Susa-no-o, and retires in high dudgeon to a cavern, thus plunging the wiiole world in darkness. All the other gods and goddesses assemble at the cavern's mouth with music and dancing. At length curiosity lures her to the door, and she is finally enticed out by the sight of her own fair image in a mirror, which one of the gods pushes forward towards her. The origin of the sacred dances called kagura is traced to this incident by the native literati. Other names under which the Sun-Goddess is known are Shimmei and Ten Shoko Daijin,

Amida (Sanskrit, Amitdbha), a powerful deity dwelling in a lovely paradise to the West. Originally Amida was an abstraction, the ideal of boundless light. His image may be recognised by the halo {goko) surrounding not only the head but the entire body, and by the liands lying on the lap, with the thumbs placed end to end. The spot on the forehead is emblematical of wisdom. The great image (Daihutsu) at Eamakura represents this deity.

28 Introduction : — List of Gods and Goddesses.

Anan (Sanskrit, Anandu)^ one of Buddlia^R cousins nnH earliest con- verts. He is often called Tamon (^K)i lit. " hearing mucli," on account of liis extensive knowledge and wonderful memory.

Bknten, or Bbnzaiten, the Goddess of Luck, Eloquence, and Fertilit}'. She is often represented riding on a serpent or dragon.

BiNZDRU, originally one of the Sixteen Kakan^ was expelled from their number for having violated his vow of chastity by remarking upon the beuuty of a female, whence the ukuhI situation of his image outside the chancel. It is also said that Buddha conferred on him the power to cure all human ills. For this reason, believers rub the imnge of Binzuru on whatever part may in their own bodies be causing them pain, and then rub themselves in the hope of obtaining relief. Binzuru is a highly popular object of worship with the lower classes, and his image is often adorned by some of his devotees with a red or yellow cotton hood, a bib, and mittens.

BiSHAMON (Sanskrit, Vdisramana)^ explained in Eitel's " Hand- book of Chinese Buddhism" as the God of Wealth, has been adopted by the Japanese as one of their Seven Gods of Luck with the special characteristic of impersonating war. Hence he is represented as clad in armour and bearing a spear, as well as a toy pagoda.

BoNTBN, Brahma.

BosATSU (Sanskrit Bddhisattvd)^ the general title of a large class of Buddhist saints, who have only to pass through one more human exist- ence before attaining to Buddhahood.

Daikokd, the God of Wealth, may be known by his rice-bales.

Dainichi Nyorai (Sanskrit, Vdirdtchana Tathdgata), one of the persons of the Triratna, or Buddhist Trinity, the personification of wisdom and of absolute purity. He is popularly confounded with Jizo, the images of the two being difficult to distinguish.

DosojiN, the God of Roads.

Ebisu, one of the Gods of Luck, is the patron of honest labour. He bears in his hand a ^i-fish.

Emma-0 (Sanskrit, Ydma-rdja)^ the regent of the Buddhist hells. He may be known by his cap resembling a judge's beret, and by the huge mace in his right hand. Before him often nit two uiyrmidons, one of whom holds a pen to write down the sins of human beings, while the other reads out the list of their offences from a scroll.

FuDo (Sanskrit, Achald), Much obscurity hangs over the origin and attributes of this popular divinity. According to Sir Monier Williams, Achala, which means " immovable *' {Fu-do^ 7f9i, translates this mean- ing exactly), is a name of the Brahminical God Siva and of the first of the nine deified persons called *' white Balas" among the Jainas. Satow says : — " Fudo (Akshara) is identified with Dainichi (Vdir6A?una), the God of Wisdom, which quality is symbolised by the fiames which surround him: it is a common error to suppose that he is the God of Fire. According to the popular view, the sharp sword which he grasps in the right hand is to frighten evil-doers, while in his left hand he holds a rope to bind them with."

Fug EN (Sanskrit, SanfianUihhadra) is the special divine patron of those who practise the Hokkezammai^ a species of ecstatic meditation. His image is generally seated on the left hand of Shaka.

List of Gods and Goddesses, 29

FuKUROKUJU, one of the Gods of Luck, is distingnished by a preternatural ly long head, and typifies longevity and wisdom.

Qo-CHI Nyorai, the Fi^e Buildhas of contemplation or of wisdom, namely, Yakuslii, Talio, Dainichi, Asliuku, and Shaka. But some authorities make a different enumeration.

GoNGKN. This is not the name of any special divinity, but a general term used in Ryobu-Shinto (see p. 22) to denote such Shinto gods as are considered to be " temporary manifestations," that is, incarnations of Buddhas. It is, liowever, applied with special frequency to leyasu, the deified founder of the Tokugawa dynast}^ of Shoguns, who is the Gongen 8ama^ that is. Lord Gongen par excellence.

Hachiman, the Chinese name under which the Emperor Ojin is worshipped as the God of War. The Japanese equivalent is Yawata.

HoTKi, one of the Seven Gods of Lack, typifies contentment and good-nature. He in represented in art with an enormous naked abdomen.

HoToKB, the genera] name of all Buddhas, that is, gods or perfected saints of popular Buddhisui. The dead are also often spoken of as hotoke.

Inari, the Goddess of Rice, also called Uga-no-Mitama. The image of the fox, whicli is always found in temples dedicated to Jnari, seems to have been first placed there as a tribute to the fear which tliat wily beast inspires ; but in popular superstition Inari is the fox deity.

Iz&NAOi and IzANAMi, the Creator and Creatress of Japan. The curious though indelicate legend of their courtsliip, the striking legend of the descent of Izanagi into Hades to visit Izanami after the latter's deatii and burial, and the account of Izanagi's histritions will be found in pp. 18-43 of the translation of the Kqj'iki, forming the Sup- plement to Vol. X. of the ** Transactions of the Asiatic "Society of Japan."

Jizo (Sanskrit, KshiHgarbha)^ the compassionate Buddhist helper of those who are in trouble. He is the patron of travellers, of pregnant women, and of children. His image is often loaded with pebbles, which eerve in the other world to relieve the labours of infants who have been robbed of their clothes by the hag named Shozuka no Baha^ and are then set by her to perform the endless task of piling up stones on the bank of the Buddhist Styx. Jizo is represented as a shaven priest with a bene- volent countenance, holding in one hand a jewel, in the other a staff with metal rings (shahujo). His stone image is found more frequently than tlrat of any other object of worship througliout the Empire. It need scarcely be said that the resemhiance in sound between the names Jiao and Jesus is quite fortuitous.

JuROJi^f, one of the Gods of Luck, often represented as accompanied by a stag and a crane.

Kami, a general name for all Shinto go<la and goddesses.

Kasho (Sanskrit, Kdsyapa)^ one of Buddha's foremost disciples. He is said to have swallowed the sun and moon, in consequence whereof his body became radiant like gold.

KiSHi BoJiN, the Indian goddess Hdritl or Ariti^ was originally a woman, who, having sworn to devour all the children at R^jagriha, the metropolis of Buddhism, was reborn as a demon and gave birtli to five hundred children, one of whom she was bound to devour every day. She was converted by Bu Idha, ami entered a nunnery. The Japanese

80 Introduction : — List of Gods and Goddesses.

worship her as the protectress of children. She is represented as a beautiful woman, carrying a child, and with a pomegranate in one hand. The lanterns and other ornaments of the temples dedicated to her are marked with the crest of the pomegranate. The ofEeringa brought to her shrine by bereaved mothers are such as may well toucbi any heart. They are the dresses, dolls, and other mementos of their lost darlings.

KoHPiRA (Sanskrit, Kumbhira). Much obscurity shrouds the origin and nitture of this highly popular divinity. According to some he is a demon, the crocodile or alligator of tlie Ganges. Others aver that Shaka Muni (Buddha^ himself became *Hhe boy Kompira,** in order to over* come the heretics and enemies of religion who pressed upon him one day as he was preaching in " the Garden of Delight," — the said " boy Kompira" having a body 1,000 ft. long, provided with 1.000 heads and 1,000 arms. The mediasval Shintoists identified Kompira with Susa-no-o, brother of the Japanese Sun-Goddess. More recently it has been declared, on the part of the Shinto authorities whose cause the Government espouses in all such disputes, that the Indian Kompira is none other than Kotohira, a hitherto obscure Japanese god whose name has a convenient similarity in sound. Consequently the great Buddliist shrine of Kompira in the island of Siiikoku, and all the other shrines erected to Kompira throughout the Empire, have been claimed and taken over as Shinto property.

KosHiN, a deification of that day of the month which corresponds to the 57th term of the Chinese sexagesimal circle, called in Japanese Ka- nO'S saru. This being the day of the monkey, it is represented by three monkeys (sam biki-zaru) called respectively, by a play upon words, mi-zarUy kika-earti, and itoa-zaru^ that is, " the blind monkey," " the deaf monkey," and ** the dumb monkey." Stone slabs with these three monkeys in relief are among the most usual objects of devotion met with on the roadside in the rural districts of Japan, the idea being that this curious trinity will neither see, hear, nor speak any evil.

KwANNoN (Sanskrit, Avaldkitisvara)^ the Goddess of Mercy, who contemplates the world and listens to the prayers of the unhappy. According to another but less popular opinion, Kwannon belongs to the male sfix. Kwannon is represented under varying forms — many-heade<l, headed like a horse, thousand-handed. The two figures often represented on either side of her are Fudo and Aizen Myo-o. With reference to the images of Kwannon, it should be stated that tlie so-called Chonsand- Handed Kwannon has in reality but forty hands which hold out a number of Buddhist emblems, such as the lotus-flower, the wheel of the law, the sun and moon, a skull, a pagoda^ and an axe — this last serving to typify the cutting off of all worldly cares. A pair of hands folded on the image's lap holds the bowl of the mendicant priest. The Horse- Headed Kwannon has three faces and four pairs of arms, a horse's head being carved above the forehead of the central face. One of the four pairs of arms is clasped before the breast in the attitude called renge no in^ emblematical of the lotus-flower. Another pair holds the axe and wheel. Yet another pair grasps two forms of the tokko (Sanskrit, vdjra)^ a sceptre or club with which the foes of the Buddliist faith are to be crushed ; while of the fourth pair of hands,

List of Gods and Goddesses* 81

tlie left holds a cord wherewith to bind the wicked, and the right is stretclied out open to indicate ahnsgiving. A title often applied to Kwannon is Nyo-i-rin^ properly the name of a gem which is supposed to enable its possessor to gratify all his desires, and which may be approximately rendered by the adjective " omnipotent."

Marishitbn (Sanskrit, Marichi)^ the personification of light in tlie BrahminicMl theology ; also a name of Krishna. In Chinese and Japanese Buddhism, Marishiten is considered to be the Queen of Heaven, and is believed by some to have her residence in a star forming part of the constellation of the Great Bear. She is represented with eight arms, two of which hold up emblems of the sun and moon.

Maya Bunin, the mother of Buddha.

Mid A, see Amida.

MiKoTO, a title applied to Shinto deities. It is generally translated Augiistness.

MiROKU (Sanskrit, Mditi^eya)^ Buddha's successor — the Buddhist Mes- siah, whose advent is expected to take place 5,000 years after Buddha's entry into Nirvlina.

MoNJU (Sanskrit, Manjusri), the apotheosis of transcendental wisdom. His image is nsunlly seated on the right hand of Shaka.

Ni-6, lit. " the Two D^va Kings," Indra and Brahma, who keep guard at the outer gate of temples to scare away the demons. Each bears in his hand the tokko (Sanskrit, vdjra), an ornament originally designed to represent a diamond club, and now used by priests and exorcists as a religious sceptre symbolising the irresistible power of prayer, meditation, and incantation. The figures of the Ni-6 are of gigantic size and terrific appearance, and are often bespattered with little pellets of paper aimed at them by devotees who think thus to secure the accomplishment of some desire on which they have set their hearts.

Nyorai (Sanskrit, Tathdgata)^ an honorific title app'ied to all Buddhas. It is compounded of Chinese nyo (in)i ** like," and rai (^), ** to come," the idea being that a Buddha is one whose coming ami going are in accordance with the action of his predecessors.

Onamdji, or Okuni-nushi, the aboriginal deity of Izumo, who re- signed his throne in favour of the Mikado's ancestors when tliey came down from heaven to Japan. He is also worshipped under the titles of Sanm and Hie.

Rakan (Sanskrit, Arhdn^ or Arhat)^ properly the perfected Arya or " holy man," but popularly used to designate not only the perfected 8;iint, but all Buddha's disciples, more especially his ^* Five Hundred Disciples" (Go- hyaku Rakan) and his "Sixteen Disciples" {Juroku Rakan). Few art-motives are more popular with Japanese painters and sculptors. The holy men are represented in various attitudes, but mostly very thin and scantily clad.

Senoen, the Goddess of Mount Fuji. She is also called Asama or Ko-no-Hana-Saku-ya-Hiine, that is, " the Princess who makes the Blos- soms of the Trees to Flower."

Shaka Muni, the Japanese pronunciation of S'dkya Muniy the name of the founder of Buddhism, wlio was also called Gautama and is gene- rally spukeu of by Europeans as " Buddha," though it would be more

^ I

82 Introduction : — LiU of Gods and Goddesses,

correct to gay " the Buddha." In his youth he was called Shitta Taislii (Sanskrit, Siddhdrtha), His birth is asually placed by the Chinese anci Japanese in the year 1027 B.C., but the date accepted by European -flcholars is 653 B.C. The most accessible account of Buddha's life and doctrine is that given by Professor Rhys Davids in his little work entitled "Buddhism," published by the Society for Promoting ChriHtian Knowledge. The entombment of Buddha — all creation standing weep- ing around — is a favourite subject of Japanese art. Such pictures are called Nehamd, that is, " representations of the entry into Nirv&na." The birth of Buddha (tanjo Shaha) is also often represented, he then appearing as a niked infant with his right hand pointing up and his left hand down, to indicate the power which he exercises over heaven and earth.

Sharihotsu (Sanskrit, S'driputtra)^ the wisest of Buddha's ten chief disciples.

Shiohi Fukujin, the Seven Gods of Luck, namely Benten, Bishamon^ Daikoku, Ebisu, Fukurokuju, Hotei and Jurojin.

Shi-Tenno, the Four Deva Kings, who guard the world against the attacks of demons. Their images differ from those of the Ni-o by hold- ing weapons in their hands and generally trampling demons under foot. Moreover they are placed, not at the outer gate of temples, but at an inner one.

Shozuka no Baba. See Jizo. _

SuKUNA-BiKONA, a microscopic god who aided Onamuji to establish his rule over the land of Izuiuo before the descent to earth of the an- cestors of the Mikados.

SUvSA-NO-o, lit. *' the Impetuous Male." The name of this deit}- is justified by the violent conduct which' he exhibited towards his sister, the Sun-Goddess Ama-terasu, whom he iilarmed so terril)Iy by his mad freaks that she retired into a cavern. Born from the nose of the Creator Izanagi, Susa-no-o is considered by some to be the God of the Sea, b}^ others the God of the Moon. He was the ancestor of the gods or monarchs of the province of Izuino, who finally renounced tiieir claims to sovereignty over an}' part of Japan in favour of tlie descen- dants of the Sun-Goddess. Siisa-no-o is also stvled Gozu Tenno, ** the Ox-headed Emperor," — a name apparently derived from that of a cer- tain mountain in Korea where he is supposed to have been worshipped. The temples dedicated to Snsa no-o are called Gion or Yasakn. The former are Buddhist or Ryobu-Shinto ; the latter are pure Shinto shrines.

Taishaku, the Brahminical god Indra.

Tamon, see Anan.

Tenjin is the name under which is apotheosised the great minister and scholar Sngawara-no-Michizane, who, having fallen a victim to calunmy in A.D. 901, was degraded to the post of Vice-President of the Dazaifu or Governor-Generalship of the island of Kyushu, at that time a usual form of banisiiment for illustrious criminals. He died in exile A.D. 903, his death being followed by many portents and dis- asters to his enemies. He is worshipped as the God of Calligraphy, other names for him being Kan Shojo and Temman«;u. He is repre- sented in the robes of an ancient court noble, and the temples dedicated

Christian Mission Stations in Japan. 83

to him bear in several places his crest of six stars. A recumbent image of a cow frequently adorns the temple grounds, in allusion to tlie fact that Michizane used to ride about on a cow in the land of liis exile. A plum-tree is also often planted near the temple, because that was his favourite tree. Indeed, tradition says that the most beauti- ful plum-tree in his garden at Kyoto flew after him through the air to Dazaifu.

ToSHoGu, the name under which the great Shogun Teyasu, also called Gongen Sama, is worshipped. It signifies " the Temple (or Prince)' Illaiuinating tiie East," in allusion to the fact that leyaeu's glory centred in Eastern Japan.

ToYO-UKE-BiMK, also Called Uke-moohi-no-Kami, the Shinto Goddess of Food. The Nihongi^ one of the two principal sources of Japanese mythology and early history, says that the Sun-Goddess sent the Moon- God down from heaven to visit Uke-mochi-no-Kami, who, turning her face successively towards the earth, the sea, and the mountains, produced from her mouth rice, fish, and game, which she served 'up to him at a banqnet. The Moon -God took offence at her feeding him with unclean viauils, and drawing his sword, cut off her head. On his reporting this act to the Sun-Goddess, the latter was very angry, and secluded herself from him for the space of a day and night. From the body of the murdered earth sprang cattle and horses, millet, silkworms, rice, barley^ and be?ms, which the Sun-Goddess decreed should thenceforth be the food of the human race. In the Kojihi version of the myth, it is Susa-no-o who slays the Goddess of Food, and there are other differences of detail.

Yakushi Nyorai (Sanskrit, BMishajyaguru), lit. *the Healing Buddha.' His name is explained by reference to a prayer, in which he is called upon to heal in the next life the miserable condition of man's present existence.

23. — Christian Mission Stations in Japan.

The Roman Catholic Mission in Japan dates from the time of Saint Francis Xavier, and though Christianity was sternly repressed during the 17th and 18th centuries and down to 1873, the flame continued to smoulder, especially in the island of Kyiishu. The Roman Church now has Bishops at Tdkyo, Osaka, and Nagasaki, and a total following of over 40,000.

The labours of the Protestant Missionaries commenced in 1859, and a network of mission stations now covers the greater portion of the Empire. Tokyo and the Open Ports are the head-quarters of most of the denominations, and are, for shortness' sake, not mentioned in the following list of mission stations, given for the benefit of travellers interested in mission work.

The United Church of Christ in Japan (Nippon Itchi Kyokwai)^ an amalgamation of American and Scotch Presbyterian Churches, has the largest number of members, over 10,000. Stations ; — Hiroshima, Kanazawa, Kochi, Kyoto, Morioka, Nagoya, Okazaki, Sapporo, Sendai, Tokusbima, Ueno, Wakayama, Yamaguchi, Yokkaichi.

34 IfitrodiicUon : — Outline of Japanese History,

Tlie Kumi-ai Oiurclies, in co-operation with the American Board's Mission, over 9,000 memhers. Stations : — Kunianioto, Kyoto, Mae- bashi, Matsuyaiua, Nagaoka, Okayama, Sendai, Tot tori, Tsu.

The Nippon Set Kokwai^ including tlie niiHHions of tiie Cliurch of England and of the Protestant Episcopa] Church of America, 4.000. Stations: — Fukuoka, Gifu, Kumamoto, Kushiro, Maebashi, MalKue, Nara, Tokushima.

American Methodist Episcopal Churchy over 4,000. Stations: — Fuku- oka, tiirosaki, Hirosliima, Matsuyauia, Nagoya, Oita. Yonezawa.

Methodist Church of Canada, 1,700. Stations: — Kanazawa, K5fu, Kumamoto, Nagano, Shizuoka.

American Baptist Missionary Union, over 1,000.' Stations: — Morioka, Nemuro, Sendai, Shimonoseki, Toyoura.

The above stations are those at wliich foreign missionaries reside. Native pastors carry on the work at other places. Numerous smaller denominations, chiefly American, are also represented.

The Orthodox Russian Church has a flourishing mission, whose head- quarters are at Tokyo.

24. — Outline of Japanese History.

Nothing is known concerning the origin of the Japanese people, or t]»e period at which they reached their present habitat. The dawn of trustworthy history in the 5th century after Christ finds the Mika<io8 — Emperors claiming descent from the Sun-Goddess Ama-terasu — already governing all Japan except the North, which was still occupied by the Aino aboiigines, and Chinese civilisation beginning to filter into what had apparently liitherto been a semi-barbarous land. The chief pioneers of this civilisation were Buddhist priests from Korea. From that time forward Japanese history consists, broadly speaking, in the rise of successive great families and chiefs, who, while alwa3's pro- fessing a nominal respect for the divine authority of the Mikado, practically usurp his power and are the de facto rulers of the country. By the end of the 12th century, the old absolutism had been converte<l into a feudalism of which Yorit.omo, the successful leader of the Minamoto family or clan, became the acknowledged head under the title of Shdgvn, which closely corresponds in etymology and in mean- ing to the Latin Imperator, Thus was inaugurated the dual system of government which lasted down to the year 1868, — the Mikado supreme in name, but powerless and dwelling in a gilded captivity at the old capital Kyoto, the Sho^un with his great feudatories, his armed re- tainers, and his well-filled exchequer, ruling the whole empire from his new capital in Eastern Japan — first Kamakura, then Yedo. During the latter period of the nominal supremacy of the Minamoto family of Shoguns, the real power was in the hands of their chief retainers, the Hojo family — the political arrangement thus becoming a triple one. The rule of the Hojo was rendered memorable by the repulse of the Mongol fleet sent by Kublai Khan to conquer Japan, nince which time Japan has never been attacked by any foreign enemy. The Ashikapi line of Slioguns grasped the power which had fallen from the Hojo*s hands, and distinguished themselves by their patronage of the arts.

Outline of Japanese History, 85

Tlie second 1m1£ of the 16tli century was a period of anarchy, daring ^vliich two great sohliers of fortune wlio were not Shoguns — Nobunaga and Hideyoslii— Fuccessively rose to supreme power. Hideyoshi even went BO far as to conquer Korea and to meditate the conquest of China, an enterprise whicli was, however, interrupted by his death in A.D. 1598. Tokugnwa leyusu, Hideyoshi's greatest general, tlien succeeded in making Japtin his own, and founded a dynasty of Shoguns who. ruleil Japan in profound pence from 1603 to 1868. •Among the means resorted to for securing tliis end were tlie ejection of tlie Catholic inissioniiries und the closing of the country to foreign trade. Nagasaki was the only place in the Empire at which any communication with the outer world was permitted, no European nation but the Dutch was allowed to trade there, and even Dutch commerce was restricted within narrow limits. At last, in 1853, the government of the United States Meut a fleet uuder the command of Commodore Perry to insist on the ceHsation of the Japanese policy of isolation. This act of interference from the outside gave the coup de grdce to the Siio^unate, which had previounly been weakened by internal discontent. It fell, and in its fall dragged down the whole fabric of mediaeval Japanese civilisation. On the one hand, the Mikado was restored to the absolute power which iiad belonged to his ancestors centuries before. On the other, Euro- peanism (if one may so phrase it) became supreme in every branch o£ thought and activity. The natural outcome of this has been the Euro- peanisation of the monarchy itself. Not only has the Court adopted foreign manners and etiquette. It has granted a Constitution modelled on that of Prussia; and tlie first Diet, as it is termed, sat from Novem- ber, 1890 to March, 1891. The session was somewhat stormy.

The following are the chief dates of Japanese historv : —

B.C. .» Accession of the first Mikado, Jimmu Tennu 660

rs'C ■{ Prince Yamato-take conquers S.W. and E. Japan ... 97-113

^£ I Conquest of Korea by the Empress Jingo 200

iFirst Chinese books brought to Japan 285

Buddhism introduced from Korea 552

Sliotokn Taishi patronises Buddhism 593-621

Government remodelled on Chinese bureaucratic plan 600-800

Chinese calendar introduced 602

Fujiwara family predominant : 670-1050

TIte Court resides at Nara 709-784

First extant Japanese book published (Kojiki) 712

Printing introduced 770

Kyoto made the capital 794

Invention of ffira-gana syllabary , 809

Struggle between the Taira and Minamoto clans 1156-1185

Yoritomo establishes the Shogunate 1192

Hojo family pre<lominant •••• 1205-1333

Repulse of the Mongols 1274-1281

Two rival lines of Mikados, the Northern and Southern

GburU , 1332-1392

86 Introdiiction : — Celebrated Personages,

Asliikaf^a dynasty of Shoguns 13B8-1565

The Portuguese discover Japan 1542

St. Francis Xavier arrives in Japan 1549

First persecution of the Ciiristiuns 1587

Yedo founded by leyasu 1590

Hideyoshi invatfcs Korea 1592-1.598

Battle of Seki-ga-imra 1600

Tokugawa dynasty of Shoguns 1603-1868

Japan closed and Christianity prohibited 1624

The Dutch relegated to Deshima 1639

Kaempfer visits Japan 1690-92

Last eruption of Fuji » 1707

Arrival of Commodore Perry 1853

First treaty signed with the United States 1854

Great earthquake at Yedo 1855

First treaties with European Powers 1857-59

Yokohama opened 1858

First Japanese embassy sent abroad 1860

Bombardment of Shimonoseki 1864

The Shoganate abolished and the Mikado restored to absolute

poNver 1868

Civil war between Imperialists and partisans of the Sliogun 1868-69

The Mikado removes to Yedo (Tokyo) 1869

Abolition of feudal systeni 1871

Tokyo-Yokohama railway opened 1872

Adoption of Gregorian calendar / 1873

Expedition to Formosa 1874

The wearing of swords interdicted 1876

Satsnma rebellion 1877

New Codes published 1880-90

Constitution proclaimed 1889

First Diet met 1890

25. — List of Celebrated Personages.

The following list of celebrated personages referred to in this book, and likely to be mentioned by guides when explaining objects of histo- rical or artistic interest, ma}^ be found usefid.

Benkki, or Musashi-bo Benkei, was Yoshit8une*s famous henchman* How many of Benkei's valorous achievements are historical, it would be hard to say. According to the orthodox account, he was eight feet in heiglit, strong as a himdred men, and had even in early years per- formed so many deeds of violence as to have been nicknamed Oni" waka, " the Devil Youth." Having attempted to cut down Ynshitsunei then a mere stripling, on t\\e Gojo Bridge in Kyoto, he found in him his master in the art of fencing, and was made to sue for quarter. So great was the veneration thus inspired in his breast, that he thenceforth attached himself to Yoshitsuno's fortunes and die<l battling in hii cause. The fight between Yoshitsune nnd Benkei is a favourite subjeol with the artists of Japan. Another is the subterfuge by which Benkei made way for hi& muster -and tlieir Utile- band through one of the

Celebrated Pei'sonages,

l»arneT« where at tliat time all travellers were liable to be stopped:' He pretended that he was a priest sent to collect subscriptions for the iMiikHn<^ of a new temple, and therefore privileged to travel free, Tlie .pictures represent him reading out his supposed ecclesiastical coiiMuission from a scroll to the barrier-keepers, who were too ignorant of letters to discover the feint. This story is also the subject of a drauia called Kavjin-cho.

HusON (1716-1783), a highly original and vigorous artist of the Chinese scliool.

Ck^ Dknsu (second half of 14tli century), the best an<l most, original painter of the Buddhist school, is termed by Anderson '* the Fra Angelico of Japan."

Dkngvo Daishi (flourished about A.D. 800) wns the first Buddhist abbot of Hiei-zan. He made a long sojourn in China for the purpose of esoteric 8tu<ly, and brought back with hmi the doctrines of the Tendai sect.

Ex NO Shokaku, a famous Buddhist saint and miracle-worker of the 7th century, and the first human being to ascend Uaku-san, Daiseir, Tate^'ama, and others of Japan's highest mountains, it being part of his wiission to bring all such remote and inaccessible places under the sway of 6u«ldha. Having been slandered as a magician and con- demned to death, he so fortified himself by the use of mystic signs and formulae that the sworls of the executioners sent to behead him Knapped in pieces; but afterwards he flew away through the air, and was never again seen by mortal eyes.

EsHiN (942-1017), a Buddhist abbot who is famous as a sculptor.

Go-Daigo Tenno (reigned 1319-1839) was a Mikado celebrated for liis misfortunes. At the beginning of liis reign, the throne and the nation were alike trampled un<ler foot by the Hojo "llegents" at Karnakura, and his endeavour to Khake off their domination oidy result- ed, after nmcli shedding of blood, in his being taken prisoner and banished to the Oki Islands. When the Hojos fell in 1333 under the «word of the loyalist warrior Nitta Yoshisada, the Emperor Go-Daigo was recalled from exile. But the times were not ripe for the abolition of military rule, nor was Go-Daigo wise in his^ choice of counsellors after his restoration. Ashikaga Takauji, who had posed as the cham- pion of Imperial rights, desired nothing so much as to become Shogun himself, and bribed the Mikado's concubine Kado-ko to poison her master's nn'nd against those who had served him most faithfully, and even against his own son, Prince Moriyoshi, who was declared a rebel, cast into a dungeon at Kamakura, and there murdered. Go-Daigo , repented of his folly and weakness when it was too late. Takauji left Kyoto, and the army Sent to Kmite him received such a crushing defeat tliat Go-Daigo was forced to f$eek safety in flight. Thereupon Takauji set another Mikado on the throne. But as Go-Daigo continued to be recognised by many as the rightful sovereign, the Mikadoate was split into two rival branches, Called the Southern (legitimate) and the Northern (usurping) Courts. After sixty years of strife and misery, the Northern Court triumphed in 1392, the representative of the Southern dynasty handling over to it the Imperial regalia. Go-Daigo perished at an early period of the

38 Introduction : — Celebrated Personages.

struggle. His Court — i£ we may so call the monntafn fastneRs wliere he mostly encamped — was at Yosliino, whose position to the South of Kyoto was the origin of the epithet ** Southern'- applied to it by liistorians.

Gyooi Bosatsu (670-749), a Korean by birth, and a Buddhint abbot and saint, is the subject of many artistic fictions. He is credited not only with the invention of the potter's wheel, which whs certainly used in Japan before liis time, but with a number of iuiportant wood- carvings and other works <»f ?irt.

HiDARi JiNGORo (1594-1634), Japan's greatest carver in wood, was a simple carpenter whose nickname of Hidari arose from his being left-handed. Among the best known of his works, are 4he carved gateway of the Nishi HoTigwanji Temple in Kyoto, the ramma^ or ventilating panels of the principal apartments in the same temple, and three carvings, — two of elephants after designs by Kano Tan-yu, and one of a sleeping cat, in tiie mortuary chapel of leyasu at Nikko. The notice attracted by his labours was so great that tiie architectural wood-cnrvers, whose artistic efforts had previously been liuiited to the execution of mechanical designs and conventional flowers, now came to be regarded as a body distinct froui the carpenters to whom they littd hitherto been affiliated.

HiDRVOSHi (1536 — 1598), commonly known as the Taiko Hideyoshi — Uie word Taiko being a title indicative of exalted rank — has sometimes been called the Napoleon of Japan. Of low birth and so ugly as to earn the nickname of " Monkey," Hideyoshi worked his way up by alieer will, hard fighting, and far-sighted ability, to the position of Nobunaga's most trusty lieutenant ; and when that ruler died in 1582, Hideyoshi, having slain his chief enemies and captured Kyoto, became practically monarch (»f Japivn witli the title of Uegent {Kv:am- haku), which till then had never been accorded to any but the highest nobility. Hideyoshi carried out many wise measures of interna] policy, such as_financial reform, the improvement of the great citie? of Kyoto and Osaka, and the encouragement of maritime trade. He was also more merciful to his foes and rivals than his predecessoi Nobnnaga had been. His greatest failing was the vulgar ambition oi the parvenu. His dream was to conquer China and become Emperoi of the whole East. As a first step towards this, he sent an army acrosf the straits to Korea undercommand of the celebrated generals Kati Ktyomasa and Konishi Ynkinaga — the latter a Christian, as were man^ of the soldiers of the expedition. Korea was ruined, and Japan no wise benefited. Hideyoshi's death resulted in the withdrawal of tin Japanese troops from the peninsula, and in the speedy overthrow oJ his own family power which he had hoped to render hereditary.

Iemitsu (1604-1651), the third Sho^un of the Tokugawa dynasty, ia herited the administrative abiUty of his grandfather leyasu, and devotee bis peaceful reign to perfecting the system of government establishec by the latter, including the elaborate system of espionage of whid early writers on Japan have so much to say. To him is due the rah according to which all the Daimyos were obliged to resido durinc^ halii tlie year in Yedo, and to leave their families there as hostages durinj Hie other half. It was also Iemitsu who suppressed ChristiuniCy ai

Celebrated Personages, 29

<1angerons lo the state, and closed up the country against all foreignem •except the Dutch and Cliinese, who were permitted to trade at Nagasaki under Ituniiliating conditions. In fact, it was Jeniitsn who consolidated what we call " Old Japan." His tomb is at Nikko near that of IeyaFu«

Ieyasu (1542-1616), one of tlie greatest generals and altogether the

|j;reatest ruler that Japan has ever produced, was a Samurai of the

province of Mikawa, and a scion of the great famil}- of Minainoto. fli»

own surname was Tokugawa. Having served under both Nobunaga

nnd the Taiko Hideyoshi, he profited b}^ the hitter's death in 1598 to

f uake war on his infant son Hideyori. seized the great castle of Osaka,

burnt the Taiko's celebrated palace of Momoyama at Fushimi, and

iinally in the year 1600 defeated all his eneinjes at the battle of Seki-ga-

hara, a small village in the province of Omi, now a station on the

Tokaido Railway. Meanwhile he had, in 1590, moved his own head-

•quarters from Shizuoka, where they had been for many years, to Yedo^

then an unimportant fishing-village, which he chose on account of the

strategic advantages of its position. In 1603 he obtained from thefaineant

Court of Kyoto the title of Shu;^un, which was borne by his descendants

■during two and a half centuries of unbroken peace, till Commodore

Perry's arrival in 1853 led to the revolution of 1868, and to the break-

•up of Japanese feudalism and dualism. The statecraft which caused

-no long a reign of peace under one dj'iiasty to take tlie place of the

-secular struggles between i^etty warring chieftains, consisted greatly in

jn balance of power whereby the rivalries of the greater Daimyos were

played off against each other, and in the annexation to the Shogun'»

own domain or to those of his ne.irest relatives of large strips of

territor}' in all portions of the Empire. These served as coignes of

vantage, whence in those days of difficult communication, the actions

•of eacli Daimyo could more easily be controlled. Ieyasu held in his

own grasp all the military resources of tliQ country, and forced all tlie

Daimyos to regard themselves as his feudatories. He likewise had the

•Courtof Kyoto strictly guarded — nominally as a protection for the sacred

Mikado against rebel foes, but in reality to prevent His Majesty, who

«till retained the semblance of Imperial power, from endeavouring to

«hake off the fetters which made him a passive instrument in the

tShogun's hands. Ieyasu furthermore built powerful strongholds, made

new highways, established a system of posts, and promulga'ted laws,

which — if we accept the theory of paternal government alike in politics

and in the family — were very wise, an^l which were in any case far in

advance of anything that Japan had known before. When the govern-

aneut had been established on a iirm footing in 1605, Ieyasu followed

the usual Japanese plan of abdicating in favour of his son. He

retired to Shizuoka, and spent the evening of his life in encouraging"

the renahsance of Japanese literature which had just begun. To his

munificence is owing the ecUtlo imnceps ot many an important work.

Ieyasu was first buried at Kuno-zan, not far from Shizuoka, in a beautiful

•shrine on a castle-like eminence overlooking the sea. In the year 1617,

his remains were removed to their present still grander resting-place at

Nikko. The dynasty of Shoguns founded by Ieyasu is called the Toku-

.gawa dj'nasty, from the surname of the family.

IWASA Matahei (16th century) was the originator of the Vhlya^

40 Introducjtion : — Celebrated Personages,

e-Bya^ or " popular school," of Japanese art, which, ubaruloning the- prescribed subjects and conveiuioiuil routine of the clussiciii schoola, undertook to paint life as it is.

JiMMU TennC), that is, the Emperor Jiinnui, is accounted by thfr Japanese annalists the first human sovereij^n of their country, whicli liad till tlien been ruled over bv tlie Shinto ffotls. Jimmu Tenno was- liimself descended from the Sun-Goddess Ania-terasu, and consequently semi-divine. The orthodox account of his career is, that starting? from Kyushu in the extreme West of Japan, he rowed up the Inland Sea with a band of devoted warriors, subduing the aborigines as he went along, in virtue of the commission which he had received from heaven^ After much fighting in what are now the provinces of Bizen and Yamato, and many miraculous occurrences, he died at the age of on& hundred and thirty-seven, and was buried at Kaslnwabara in Vamato,. where his capital ha<l been established after the conquest. The date assigned for his accession is the 11th February, OGO B.C., the anniver- sary of which day has been made a public holiday during the present reign, and was chosen for the promulgation of the new Constitution, evidently with the desire to strengthen the popular belief in the authen- ticity and continuity of Japanese history. Jimmu Tenno and his suc- cessors during many centuries have, however, been condenuied as myths by competent European investigators, though it is allowed that the- Jimmu legend may possibly be an echo of some actual invasion of cen- tral Japan b}' Western tribes of adventurers in very early days.

Jingo Kogo, that is the Empress Jingo, ruled over Japan, according- to the native annalists, from A.D. 201 to 269, when she died at the age of one hundred; but Aston, the greatest authority on early Japanese history, while not <lenying the existence of this Japanese Semiramis^ relegates most of her great deeds to the realm of fable. The chief legend connected with her is that of her conquest of Korea, to which country she crossed over with a gallant fleet, aided by the fishes botU g^reat and small and by a miraculous wave, and whence she returned only after receiving the abject submission of the King. Duringthe three years of her absence in Korea, she held in her womb her son Ojiii who is worshipped as Hachiman, the God of War. Next she turned her attention Eastwards, and, going in her fleet up the Inland Sea, smote the rebels of Yamato, as Jimmu Tenno is said to have done before her. Indeed, it has been suspected that the two legends are but slightly varying versions of the same story.

JuSKTSU (flourished about A.D. 1400), a priest and celebrated painter. Anderson calls him the Japanese Cimabue.

Kano, the family name of a celebrated school of painters, which originated in the 15th century and is not yet extinct. Its manner, which appears highly conventional to Europeans, is classical in the eyes of the Japanese. The greatest of these painters was Kano Motonobu (born 1477). Other noteworthy members of the family were K. Shoei, K. Eitoku, and K. Sanraku (16th century), K. Sansetsu, and especially K. Tan-yu. K. Naonobu, K. Yasunobu, I\. Toun, and K. Tsunenobu were also famous. All these names, from Sansetsu onwards, belong to the 17th century. The Japanese custom of a<loption is the ke}' to the ap- parent mystery of bo many men similarly gifted arising in one family.

Celebrated Personages, 41

Kato Kiyomasa was one of Hideyosbrs generals in the invasion of Korea at i\\e end of the 16th century, anil a fierce enemy of the Christians. He is one of tlie most popular Japanese lieroes, and is worshipped — chiefly by the Nichiren sect of Buddhists — under the name of Seishoko.

KiYOMORi (1118 — 1181), whom Satow calls <he Warwick of Japanese liistory, was head of the great house of Taira during its struggles with the rival house of Minamoto, and during the brief period of triumph which preceded its final overthrow at Dan-no-ura. From the year 1156 until his death, Kiyoniori was all-powerful, engrossing all the highest offices of state for his own kinsmen, and governing the Palace through his kinswomen where boy Mikados succeeded each other like shadows on the throne. To suit his own convenience, he moved the capital for a time from Kvolo to Fukuwara near the site of modern Kobe — an act of high-handed autocracy which was bitterly resented by the courtiers and the nobility, whose habits were interfered with and resources taxed by the double move. While irritating the upper classes by his nepotism and overbearing demeanour, he ground down the common people ])y his exactions, and endeavoured uiterly to exterminate the Taira clan. The famous beauty Tokiwa, handmaiden to Yoshitomo, was forced to yield to his embraces in order to save the life of her infant, the future hero Yoshitsune, and every woman that pleased him had to minister to his lust. His eldest son Shigemori remonstrated with him in vain. But the storm did not break in his time. He died in his bed, leaving his whole house to perish four years later iu a sea of blood.

KuBo Daishi (774 — 834), the most famous of all Japanese Buddhist saints, was noted equally as preacher, painter, sculptor, calligraphist, and'travcller. Had his life lasted six hundred years instead of sixty, lie could hardly have grav.en all the inuiges, scaled all the mountain- peaks, confounded all the sceptics, wrought all the miracles, and per- formed all the other feats with which he is popularly credited. Byobu-ga-ura, near the modern temple of Kompira in Shikoku, was his birth-place. His conception was miraculous, and he came into the world with his hands folded as if in prayer. He entered the priesthood in A.D. 793. Various legends are told of the trials to which he was subjected by evil spirits during his novitiate. At Cape Muroto in Tosa, dragons and other monsters appeared out of the sea* and disturbed him in his prayers. These he drove away by repeating mystic formulae called Darani, and by spitting at them the rays of the evening star which hail flown from heaven into his mouth. At a temple built by him on this spot, he was constantly annoyed by hobgoblins who forced him to enter into conversation ; but he finally got rid of them by surrounding himself with a consecrated enclosure into which they were unable to enter against his will. Having been sent to China as a student in 804, much as promising Japanese youths are sent to Europe and America torday, he became the favourite disciple of the great abbot Hui-kwo {Jap, Kei kwa), by whom he was charged to carry back to Japan the tenets of the Yog^charya, or, as it is called in Japan, Shingon sect, which occupies itself greatly with mystic formularies, magic spells, and iucantations. Eobo Daishi returned home in 800, bringing with him a

42 Ititroductiofi : — Celebrated Personages.

lar^e quantity of BuHdliist books and religious parapliernalia, and in 810 was appointed abbot of Tuji in Kyoto. A few years later he found- ed the great monastery of Koya-san, where his last days were spent at the close of a life of incessant toil. It is asserted that he did not die, but merely retired into a vaulted tomb, where he still awaits the coming of Miroku, the Buddhist Messiah. Among the innumerable great deedi with which this saint is credited, is the invention of the Hiragana syllabary. It should be noted that tiie name Kobo Daishi (lit. the Great Teacher Spreading abroad tlie Law) is a posthumous title con- ferred on him b}^ the Emperor Daigo in the year 921. His name while alive was Kfikai.

KoJiMA. Takanori, a high-born warrior of the 14th century, is celebrated for his loyalty to the ill-starred Emperor Go-Daigo.

KoRiN (latter half of 17th century) was a famous lacquer artist and painter.

KoSE NO Kanaoka (second half of 9th century) was the first great Japanese painter. A number of quaint legends testify to the effect which his skill produced on the minds of his contemporaries.

Kdmagai Naozane, a warrior of the latter half of the 12tli century, took his surname from the town of Kumagai in Muaashi, which he received as a fief from Yoritomo. The most famous incident in his life was his en- counter with Atsumori at the battle of Ichi-no-tani not far from Kobe, in the year 1184. Atsumori was a delicate youngnobleman of the Taira clan, scarcely sixteen years of age, who, when the city of Fukuwara had been taken by the Minamoto, soughtsafety like the rest of his kindred in flight on board a junk, but being pursued by Knmagai Naozane, had to fight for his life. He succumbed to the veteran, who, tearing off his helmet the better to cut off his head, beheld the youthful face and was struck with pity and sympath)^ his own son having fallen earlier in the day. He reflected, however, that to spare the boy's life would only cause him to fall into more. ruthless hands. So partly out of compassion, and partly for the sake of his own reputation, he resolved to carry out his first purpose. Atsumori submitted to his fate with heroic courage, while Naozane, overwhelmed with bitter remorse, vowed never more to bear arms, but to forsake the vvorld and devote the remainder of his days to praying for the soul of the fair youlh whose life he had so unwillingly taken. He restored to Atsumori's father the head and the other spoils which life had won, and after the conclusion of the war he went to Kyoto, and took monastic vows in the temple of Kurodani, \vhere numerous relics of him are shown to this day. The story has been- dramatised under the title of Atsumori.

KusuNOKi Masaseiigk (first half of 14th century) is celebrated for his courage and for his unswerving lo3'alty to tlie throne. Had the Emperor Go-Daigo listened to his advice, the rising power of the house of Ashikaga might have been crushed. As it was, Masa- shige was unequally pitted against a superior foe; and when his army had been annihilated at the battle of Minato-gawa in 1336, he and a little oand of personal followers committed haraJciri rather than surrender. A scene which artists often represent, is Masashige abont to die, presenting to his son the ancestral roll in order to stimulate him to deeds worthy of the family renown.

Celebrated Personages. 48

MiTO KuMON (1622-1700), eecond Prince of Mito, a near relative •of tlie Tokiigawa Slio^uns, helped greatly tliougli iinconsciouHly to the tinul overthrow of tlieir house, and of the whole feuihil system a •century and a half later, by means of his celebrated historical work, the Z}ai Nihon SJii, which first caused men to suspect that the SliGguns were usurpers, and the Mikados the only rightful rulers of Japan. He also, patironised the new school of Shinto literati, whose studies le<l them, and iinally the majority of the educated public, to endeavour to bring back the «tate of things which had existed in pre-Buddhistic an<l pre-feudul days. Popular tradition ascribes to this prince many fanciful undertakings, -eiicli as the endeavour to raise the great bell from the river at Kunodai, and to find the bottom of the Kananie-hhi at Kashima, which is supposed to be the pivot of the world.

MuRASAKi Shikibu (flourished about A.D. 1000) was a Court lady, And the most celebrated of Japanese romance-writers. Her chief work is the Genji Monogatari,

♦ NiCHiREN was born at Kominato in the province of Awa at the mouth of Yedo Bay in A.D. 1222. At the age of twelve, he became a neophyte in the Shingon sect of Buddhists, and was a<)mitted to the priesthood three years later. Shortly afterwards, he a<lopted the name by which he is known to histor}-. It signifies * lotus of the sun,' and is derived from a dream dreamt by his mother of thestm on a lotus-flower, in consequence of which she became pregnant. He-acquired a thorough knowledge of the whole Buddhist canon by a miracle, and met in the course of his studies with words which he converted into the formula Namu myoho renfje kffo, *0h, the scripture of tiie Lotus of the Wonderful Law ! * — a formula which is still constantly used as an invocation by his followers. Having attracted the attention of the Regent Tokiyori by the unsparing manner in which he attacked other sects, he was banished to the peninsula of Izu in 1261, but pardoned soon after. Ten years later, his enemies persuaded the Regent Tokinmne that Nichiren'sdtKJtrines tended tosubvert the state. He was seized and thrown into a cave with his six cliief disciples, and condemned to be beheaded the same niglit ; but when brought to the place of execution, was saved by a miracle, the executioner's sword failing to act on the head of so holy a man, and Tokinmne, warned in a dream, spared his life. Nichiren was, however, banished to the island of Sado in the North, but was permitted in 1274 to return to Kamaknra, then the military capital of Eastern Japan. He next retired to live among the mountains o£ Minobn in a hut, which he quitted in order to take up his abode with the lord of t)ie manor, Nambu Rokuro, a devotee so zealous that he bestowed on the saint and his sect for ever all the lands in his possession. As crowds of disciples flocked to Nichiren for instruction in the faith, he erected a small shrine which became the nucleus of ihe now famous monastery of ISIinohu. In 1282, feeling that death was approaching, he removed from Minobu to Ikegami, near the modem city of Tokyo, and thnre <lied. His body was burnt on the spot and the bones conveyed to Minobu, only a small portion being retained at Ikegami as a precious relic. His zeal and his intolerance appear to iiave been inherited by his spirituid children, — the Nichiren-ahu, or Hohhe-sha^ as the sect derived from him is also called, having paslied

44 Introduction : — Celebrated Personages,

ilie odium fheologicum to n degree otiierwise rare in tTapan. The chief outwiird and visible — or ratlier audible — sign c»f tlieir temples is the drum, which the devotees beat for liours to^etiier to keep time to their chanting of the sacred formula Namu myoho renge Jcyo,

NiTTA YoSHiSADA, a Warrior of the 14th century, famed for hiB • courage and for his devotion to the Mikado's cause against the usurp- ing families of Hojo and Ashikaga.

NOBUNAGA,^ properly Ota Nobunaga (1534-1582), was a warrior wlio, in the general scramble for land and power which went on in the latter lialf of the 16th century, gained possession of the provinces of Surnga, Mino, Omi, Mikawa, Tse, and Echizen. Having next taken Kyoto, he built the fine castle of Nijo, and sided wiih Ashikaga Yoshi- aki, who bv his influence wa/3 made Shoffun in 1558. Six vears later the two quarrelled. Nobunaga arrested and deposed Yoshiaki, and the power of the Ashikaga famil}*, which had lasted two hundred and thirt3'-eight years, came to an end. By the aid of his generals. Hide- yoshi and leyasu, he brought large portions of the Empire under his- sway, but never obtained the title of Shogun, which custom had limited to members of the Minamoto family, whereas Nobunaga was of Taini descent. Though a great soldier, iJCobunaga lacked the administrative ability to foUow up and consolidate the advantages gained in war. Conse- quently, when he was assassinated by an offended subordinate named Akechi, his power died with him. Nobunaga was a bitter enemy to Buddhism. Among his many acts of violence, was the destruction of tlie great monastery of Hiei-zan near Kyoto and of the Hongwanji at Osaka, on both which occasions frightful scenes of massacre ensued. On the other hand, he encouraged the Christians: but it is not to be sup- posed that a nuin of his stamp did so out of any appreciation of their reljgious doctrines. _

Okyo (1733 — 1795), properly called Maruyama Okyo, was the founder of the Shijo school of painting, whose watchword was fidelity to nature, though, as Anderson points out, their practice was far less radical than their theor}', and did not lead them actually to reject the conventionalities of tlieir predecessors in art. Okyo was specially successful in his paintings of birds and fishes.

Saico, a Samurai of the Satsuma clan, whose youth coincided vith the closing years of the Japanese ancien regime^ conspicuously dis- tinguished himself on the Imperialist side. Before the triumph of the latter, he was thrice exiled to Vries Island as a political suspect ; but after the revolution of 1868, to the success of which he contributed 80 materially as to earn the title of Commancjer -in-Chief of the Imperial army, he became one of the most important personages in the state. His programme, however, was no radical one. When his colleagues in the government showed tint their aim was not, as had at first been asserted, a return to the Japan of early histoj'ic days, but the complete Europeanisation of the country and the abandonment of all national usages and traditions, Saigo broke with them, and retired to the city of Kagoshima in Satsuma, where he founded a military school to. which all the ardent youth of Satsuma and Osumi soon began to flock. The

• This article is taken almost verbalh- frr m Griffis's " Mikado's Empire," Cliap>

xxni. .

Celebrated Personages. 4&

influence of tliis scliool precipitated the inevitable conflict between the old and the new order of idejis. It broke out in 1877, and is known to history as the Satsunia Rebellion. After a struo^gle of several months, tlio Imperialists triumphed, and Saigo himself fell on the 24th Septem- ber, as did the whole of the little band of three hundred that had re- mained faithful to him till the end. Saigo still lives in, popular estima- tion as the most perfect example of a brave warrior and a true patriot; and even the Imperial Court now honours his memory, the ban of degradation having been removed in 1890, and the dead Commander- in-Chief re-instated posthumousl}" in all his honours. The common people say that Saigos spirit has gone to dwell in one of the brightest stars of heaven. The visit of the Czarewitch to Japan in 1891 helped to give credence to a wild notion according to which Saigo had, like Yoshitsune centuries before, escaped to Siberia. The possibility of his returning to Japan in the Czarewitch's train was seriously discussed by several newspapers, and one adherent of the old school of Japanese etiiics went so far as to commit haralclri when told by his friends that he must be mad to believe such a tale.

, Sesshij (1421-152.7) was the greatest Japanese artist of the Chinese sclwud of painting. Anderson says of him :

'* It is difficult for a European to estimate Sesshu at his true value.. ► Notwithstanding the boast of the artist that the scenery of China was his only teacher, and the credit bestowed upon him by his admirers of having invented a new style, he has in no respect departed from the artificial rules accepted by his fellow painters. He was, however, an original and powerful artist, and his renilerings of Chinese scenery bear evidences of local stud}' that we look for in vain in the works of his successors. The grand simplicity of his landscape compositions, their extraordinary breadth of design, the illusive suggestions of atmosphere and distance, and the all-pervading sense of poetr}', demonstrate a genius that could rise above all defects of theory in the principles of his art."

Shinran Shoxin (1173-1262) was the founder of the powerful Ikko- sliu sect of Buddhists, also called Shinshu or Monto, whose splendid temples, known b}^ the name of Ilongii-ftuji or Monzehl^ are among the chief sights of most Japanese cities. Hongwanji means * the Monastery of the Ueal Vow,' in allusion to the vow made by Amida that he would not accept Buddhahood except under the condition that salvation was made attainable for all who should sincerely desire to be born into his kingdom, and signify their desire by invoking his name ten times. It is upon a passage in a Buddhist scripture where this vow in recorded that the doctrine of the sect is based, its central idea being that man is to be saved by faith in the merciful power of Amida, and not by works or vain re petition of prayers. For this reason, and also because its priests are permitted to marry, this sect has sometimes been called the Protestantism of Japan. h\ the year 1602, political reasons caused a split in the sect, which since that time has been divided into u Western and an Eastern branch — N'lM Ilongicanji and Higa^hi Hongwanjiy — each branch owning a temple in every considerable city of the Empire. Shinran Shonin was descended from the Imperial family. The abbots of the sect therefore bear the title of Monzeki, or.

46 Introduction : — Celebrated Personages.

Imperial Offspring, while tlie walls enclosing its temples are allowed tlie Hiiji-kabe., or Mtripe<l plaster onianientatiou, otherwise reserved for hnilditigs inhabite^I by Imperial princes. Daring the present reigo, -Shinran Shunin has beon honoured by the bestowal of the posthnnHiiui title of Kenshin Daiflhi, that is * the Great Teaclier who Sees the Truth.*

Shotokc Taishi (572-621), the Constantine of Japanese Buddhism, was son of the Emperor Yoinei and regent nmler the Empress Suiko, hnt never liimself actually ascended the thrune. Ue foumletl a large number of monasteries, framed a short coile of laws, and is stiid to have intnKluced the use of the calendar into Japan. He is also the reputed author of numerous paintings and sculptures, which AndersoD, however, inclines to consi<ler apocryphal.

ShObun (loth century), one of tlie greatest Japanese painters of the -Chinese school.

80SRN (1747-1821), an artist of the Shijo school, famed for his paintings of monkeys.

Takkxouchi no Sdkuxk, the Methuselah of Japan, is said to have Jived two hundred and iifty-five years (according to others, three iiundred and sixty years), and to have served six successive Mikados. His birth is supposed to have taken place about 200 B.C.

ToBA SoJO, an abbot of tlie 13th century, is famous as the originator ' of a quaint, coarse style of picture called Toba-e.

Yamato-take no Mikoto, one of the eighty children of the Emperor Keiko, was a great hero of the pre-historic age. While )-et a stripling, he was sent by his father to destroy the rebels of Western Japan, — an object wliicli he accomplished by disguising liimself as a girl, ami making the rebel chieftains fall in love with him while carousing in the •cave where they dwelt. Then suddenly drawing a sword from his bosom, he smote them to death. He next subdued the provinc*e of Izuiiio, and iinally conquered Eastern Japan, which was at that time a birbarous waste. After many adventures both warlike and amorous, he died on the homeward march to Yamato where the Emperor his father held his Court.

YoRiTOMO (1147 — 1199) was the founder of the Shogunate, the first Japanese Mayor of the "Palace, if we may so phrase it. A scion of the great house of Minamoto, as shrewd and ambitious as he was unscrupulous and inhuman, he was left an orphan at an •early age, and barely escaped deatli as a lad at the hands of Kiyomori, the then all-powerful Minister, who belonged to the rival Taira clan. Kiyomori's exactions having roused the indignation of the whole Empire, Yorit(mio saw that the moment had come to essay the restoration of his own fortunes. All the malcontents eagerly ilocked to his standard, and first in Eastern Japan, then at Kyoto, and lastly at the great sea-fight of Dan-no-ura near Shimonoseki at the S.W. end of the Inland Sea, Yoritomo defeated the Taira and utterly exterminateil them, putting even women and children to the «word. Yoritomo established his capital at Kamakura, wliicli soon^rew into a great city, thoroughly reorganised the government by the ap- pointment of military governors chosen from among his own clan to 4ict conjointly with the civil governors who received their nominations from the Mikado, by the levy of taxes for military purposes payable

Population of the Chief Cities.

47

into his own trensury, nnci by otlier fiir-siglitecl innovalions made in the joterests of a military femialisni. At last in 1192, lie obtained — in other words forced — from the Court of Kyoto the title of Sel-i Tai Shojun^ that is ^ Barbarian-subduing Generalissimo/ which soon came to denote the military or achial king of the country, as distin- Kaished from its theoretical head, the heaven-descended Mikado. Yoritoino, whose life had been spent fighting, died peucefnily in his lieci. Among the many on whom he trampled to satisfy the dictates of |>er8onal ambition, was his own brother Yoshitsune, a far nobler hero. Though Yoritomo's system of government rt*mained in vigour for well- nigh seven centuries, the sceptre dropped froui his own family in the next generation after his death, his sons Yoriie and Sanetomo being weaklings who both perished by assassination at an early nge.

YoSHlTSUN^E (b. 1159) was younger halt'-hrotlier to the first Shogur> Yoritomo, V>eing the son of Yoshitomo by a beautiful concubine named Tokiwa. By yielding to the wicked desires of the tyrant Kiyomori^ Tokiwa nbtained pardon for her son on condition that he shaved hi» liead and became a monk. Accordingly he whs placed in the Buddhist raonustery of Kurama-yama near Kyoti». But theological exercises were so little to his taste that he ran away to Northern Japan in com- pany with. H friendly merchant, and at once distinguished himself by the valour with which he repelled the assaults of the brigands, slaying oeveral with his own hand, though then himself but sixteen years of age. When Yoritomo rose in arms against the Taira clan, Yoshitsune naturally joined him. and became his greatest general. Indeed, the real guerdon belonged rightfully to the younger rather than to the elder brother. Yoritomo, far from feeljng any gratitude, began to burn with jealousy and to detest Yoshitsune as a possible rival. He even went 8o far as to compass his death. But Yoshitsune escaped again to Northern Japan, where, according to one account, he was discovered by spies, and killed after a desperate fight on the banks of the Koromo- gawa, his head being sent to Yoritomo at Kamakura preserved in mke^ Others say that he committed harahWi when he saw that all was lost. liaving previously killed his own wife and children. A more fanciful account is that he escaped to Yezo, and then re-appeared on the main- land of Asia as Genghis Khan. This fable probably originated in an accidental similarity between the Chinese characters used to write the namefl of these two famous men. But it is a remarkable fact that to this day Yoshitsune remains an object of worship among the Ainos of Yezb. To the Japanese his name is a synonym for single-minded bravery and devotion. The traveller will often hear mentioned in con- nection with the name of Yoshitsune those of Benkei, his faithful retainer, and Yasuhira, the traitor suborned by Yoritomo to slay him.

26. — Population of Chief Cities.

Fakui (Echizen). . Fakuoka (Chikuzen) Hakodate .... Hirosliinvi. . . .

41,000 53,000 53,000 89,000

Hirosaki 30,000'

Kagoshima .... 57,000^

Kanazawa (Kj>ga) . . 94,000

Kobe 135,000

48

Introduction : — Outline Tours,

Koclii 32,000

Kofii 31,000

Kunicamoto .... 53,0()0

Kyoto 279,000

l^Iutsne 3G,000

•MatPiiynnia (Tyo) . . 32,000

Morioku 31,000

Nagasaki .55,000

Nagoya 102,000

Niigata 46,000

Okayama 48,000

0.saka 476,000

Sakai (Izunii) . . Sen<iai .... Slninonoseki . . Sliiziiokn. . . . TakamatfiU (Sannki) Tokiisliiina (Awa) Tokyo (district of) Toyama (EtcliQ) Utsnnoniiva . Wakayania . . Yokohama . . Yokosuka . .

4«.000 1)0,000 33,000 37,000 32,000 61,000 1,389,000 58,000 30,000 56,000 122,000 32,000

27. — Outline Tours.

1. One monlirs tour from Yokoliama : —

Tokyo 2 (laye.

Kamaknru and Eiiosliiina 1 „

IVIiyanosliita 3 „

From Mi3'anosliita to Nagoya by Tokaido Railway •... 1 „

^agoya .\ i „

From Nagoya to Kyoto 1 „

Kyoto 4 „

Xake Biwa and back to Kyoto 2 „

From Kyoto to Nara, Osaka, and Kobe 3 ,,

Back to Yokohama by steamer or railway 1 J „

From Yokohama to Nikko 1 ,»

Nikko and Chuzenji .^ 4 „

From Nikko to Ikao by rail via Oyama and Maebashi 1 „ .

Ikao (visit Harima) 2 „

From Ikao to Myoo^i-san via Takasaki 1 ,.

Hyogi-san and back to Yokohama by rail 1 „

Spare days 2 „

31 „

This tour is practicable for ladies throughotit. With it may be com- bined the ascent of Fuji from Yokohama (see Route 9).

2. One month's tour from Nagasaki : —

Nagasaki and Onsen (Unzen) 4 daj's*

From Nagasaki to Ko!)e by steamer 2 „

Nara, Kyoto^ and Lake Biwa i 5 „

From Kyoto to Nagoya by Tokaido Railway 1 „

From Nagoya to Miyanoshita 1 „

Miyanoshita 3 „

From ^livanoshita to Kamakura and Yokohama 1 ,,

Yokphama 1 ,^

Tokyo *........ ..;; 2 ^,

Outline Touts* A9

•From Tok^o to Nikko and b«ck 4 dayq^

Steuiuer from Yokohaiiiu to Nagasaki 4 ,^

Spiire days 3 ,)

31 „ *

This tour, like tlie last, is practicable for ladies. Sliortcr tours can easily be arranged by omitting certain portions of the above.

3. Yokohama to Mi^'anoshita, Hakone, an(i Atami (see Routes 6 and 7).

4. YokoliJima to Nikko, tlie copper-mines of Ashio, down the valley of the Watarase-gawa to Oinama, and back to Yokohama by train. Five da^'s. ^ One day extra for Kosliin-zan (Routes 16 and 17).

5. Yokohama to Nikko, Chu/.enji, and Yumoto ; thence over the Konsei-toge to Maehashi, and back to Yokoliama by train. One week* Two extra days to visit Ikao at end of trip (Routes 16 and 18).

_ 6. Yokobaiiia to Tachikawa on the Hachioji Railway ; thence vi^ Ome up tbe valley of the Taniagawa to Kofu. Kofu to Kajikazawa, and down tiie rapids of tlie Fujikawa (visiting Minobn) to Iwabuchi on ihe Tukaido Railway. One week. If Mitako be visited, one day more. All this is included in Route 10.

7. Y^'okohama to Ikao, Ist day ; Ikao to Knsatsu, 2nd day ; Kusatsii to Sliibu over Shirane-san, 3rd day ; Shibu to Toy(»no and Nagano, 4tli ^la}' ; Nagano vki Karuizawa to Myogi-san, 5th day. Train to Yoko- liama in 4J hrs. One day extra for ascent of Asama-yama from Karui- zawa (Routes 14, 32. 13, and 12).

8. Yokohama to Nagano by train, back to Ueda to rejoin the Naka- «endu, thence along the Nakasendo to Gifu, and by train to Kyoto. Eight or nine days (Routes 32, 39, and 38).

9. Yokohama by the Koshu-kaido or Nakasendo to Shimo-no-Suwa, and down the rapids of the Tenryu-gawa to the Tokaido Railway. Five or six days (Routes 10, 39, and 35).

10. Yokohama by train to Shiogania, by water to ^latsusliima, Ishino- maki, Kinkwa-zan, and Oginohama, whence steamer back to Yokohama* Six days. Three extra days to visit Bandai-san from Motomiya on Northern Railway. Two extra days from Sendai for Ichinoseki by train, an<l descent of the Kitakami-gawa (Routes 24, 30, and 21).

11. Kobe to Nagoya by rail ; steamer from Atsuta to Kami-Yashiro for temples of Ise; by land to Seki, and by the Kwansei Railway to Kyoto._ Four days (Routes 38 and 37).

12. Osaka through Yamato to Koya-san and back. Five days (Route 46).

13. Kyoto to Tsurnga on the Sea of Japan ; overland or steamer to Fnshiki, steamer to Naoetsu, rail to Tokyo. Five or six days (Routes 33, 32, and 12).

14. Tour of the Inland Sea and Shikoku. Time uiy^ertain (Routes 50 to 53).

* 15. Nagasaki to tbe solfataras of Onsen (Unzcn) and back. Three days (Route 55).

16. Naga<;aki to the hot-springs of Takeo, and back via the potteries of Arita. Three days (Routes 55 and 56).

17. From Nagasaki by steaiier to Misumi, 8 hrs.; overland to Kuma-

90 Introduction : — Outline Totirs.

moto; tlience viA Yatstisliiro and Hitoyoslii for the descent of tlifr rapids of tlie Kuinagawa. Six days. Tlie trip to Hitoyoslii and back, omitting Kuummoto, may be made from Misumi in three or four days (Route 57).

18. From Nagasaki by steamer v'ld Hyakkwan to Wakatf^u, Ist day ; jinrikisha to Hida, 2iid day; by the Yabake valley to Kakatsu, 3rd day; 0ita, 4th day; Takeda, 5th day; Sakanashi, 6th day; Knmamoto, 7tli day; back to Nagusuki by steamer from Misumi, 8lh day. Three or four extra days are required for the descent of the rapids of tlie Kuma- g^awa (Routes 56 and 57).

19. From Hakodate by steamer to Olaru; thence to Sapporo, Volcano Bay, and back to Hakodate overland. Five or six days (Route ^Q),

20. By steamer from Hakodate up the East Coast of Yezo and to the Southern Ku riles (Route 67).

SECTION I.

EASTERN JAPAN.

(Routes 1 — 23.

M Introduction : — Outline Tours.

tnoto; thence viii Yatsnshiro and Hitoyoslii for tlie descent of tli» rapids of tlie Kiiinagawa. Six days. The trip to Hitoyoslii and back, omitting Kuummoto, may be made from Misumi in three orfmir day» (Route 57).

18. From Nagasaki by steamer vid Hyakkwan to Wakatfu, Ist day ; jinrikisha to Hida, 2nd day; by the Yabake valley to Nakatsu, 3rd day; Oita, 4th day; Takeda, 5tli day; Sakanashi, 6th day; Kiimamoto, Tth day; back to Nagasaki by steamer from Misumi, 8lh day. Three or four extra days are required for the descent of the rapids of the Kuma- gawa (Routes 56 and 57).

19. From Hakodate by steamer to Olaru; thence to Sapporo, Volcano Bay, and back to Hakodate overland. Five or six days (Route ()&).

20. By steamer from Hakodate up the East Cuust of Yezo and to the- Southern Kuriles (Route 67).

SECTION I.

EASTERN JAPAN.

(Routes 1 2^,

Handbook for Travellers

IN

JAPAN.

ROUTES.

KOUTE 1.

Yokohama.

Tokohaina> the place where most visitors first touch Japanese soil, is the largest of the Treaty Ports and practically the port of Tokyo.

Hotels.— Grand Hotel, No. 20 j Club Hotel, No. 5-b, both on the Bund facing the sea; Haefker's Hotel, No. 87, Main Street.

Begtauranis. — (Muropean food). Nissei-ro, in Benten-dori. — (Japor Msefood). Edoko, in Minami Naka- dori, noted f orbits eels (unagi-meshi); Sanomo, in Ota-machi ; Fukki-ro, near the Railway Station.

Japanese Inns. — Yamazaki-ya,

Tawara-ya, Takano-ya, Imamura- ya.

Banks. — Hongkong and Shanghai Bank, No. 2; New Oriental Bank, No. 11 ; Chartered Bank of India, Australia, and China, No. 78. Also Agencies of the Chartered Mer- cantile Bank and the Comptoir d'Escompte ; Yokohama Specie Bank (Japanese).

Con«*Za<€8. — British, No. 172; American, No. 234; French, No. 84; (German, No. 81.

Post and Telegraph Office.— Thia, together with the Telephcme Ex-

chcenge, the Custom House (Zeikwan), and the Prefecture {Kenchd), stands near the British and American Consulates on the space between the Foreign Settlement and the Japanese town.

Steam Comfmunication. — Japan Mail Steamship Company (Nippon Yusen Kwaisha), close to the Rail- way Station ; Peninsular and Orien- tal, No. 15 ; Messageries Maritimes, No. 9; Norddeutscher Lloyd, No. 29; Pacific Mail, Occidental and Oriental, No. 4-a ; Canadian Pacific, No. 200 ; Agents for " Glen" line, Jardine, Matheson & Co. ; '' Castle " line and " Shire " line, Adamson, Bell & Co; "Ben" line Comes & Co ; " Holt's " line, Butterfield and Swire.

Churches. — Christ Church (An- glican), No. 105 ; Union Church (Protestant Episcopalian), No. 167; Roman Catholic, No. 80 ; Methodist Church, No. 221.

Clubs. — Yokohama United Club, No. 5-A.; Club Q«rmania, No. 235.

Photographs of Japanese scenery and costumes. — Farsari & Co., No. 16 ; Welsh & Co., No. 86 ; Kimbei, in Honcho-dori; Tamamura, in Benten - dori ; Suzuki, near the Cricket Q-round.

Books and Maps relating to Japan.

54

Pioute 1, — YokoJiama.

—Kelly and Walsh, No. 61 ; Good- enough & Co., No. 56 ; Farsari, No. 16.

Foreign Stores for Japanese Works of Art. — Deakin Brothers & Co., at the Grand Hotel and No. 16 ; Kuhn, No. 67 ; Shinagawa, No. 35 ; Arthur & Bond's Fine Art Gallery, No. 12 ; Welsh & Co., No. 86.

Japanese Curio Dealers. — Minoda Chojiro, in fionchd-dori, fine lac- quer, enamels, and ivories ; Inoue, 44, Honcho-dori, screens, embroid- eries, etc. ; Musashi-ya, in Honcho- dori, jewellery, ivories, silver-ware, etc. ; Nagasaki-ya, in Honcho-dori, jewellery, metal- work, ivories, etc. ; Matsuishi-ya, in Honcho-dori, porcelain in European shapes ; Tashiro-ya, in Benten-dori, porce-. lain ; Watano, in Honcho-dori, porcelain ; Kosaka, 25, Benten-dori, paper fans ; Shamokame, 15, Hon- cho-dori, embroidery, porcelain, and enamels ; Fine Art Exhibi- tion, in Asahi-machi.

SiUc Stores. — Shobei, Shieno, both in Honcho-dori; Noboru-ya Saku- bei, in Benten-dori; also, for cheaper articles, Yamaguchi in Ot«>-machi, and Matsura, 52, Ben- ten-dori.

Emhroideries, Silk cmd Cotton Crapes, Japanese Cottons, etc. — No- zawa-ya, '30, Benten-dori, Nicho- me; Tamagata-ya, opposite No- zawa-ya.

Japanese Note-paper. — ^Tanikawa, in Minami Naka-dori Itchome.

Toys, etc. — Nagai, in Honcho-dori.

Bamboo and Bead Blinds, Cabinets, etc. — Moriyasu, 62, Benten-dori Shi- cbome.

Japanese Theatres, etc. — ^Tsuta-za, in Isezaki-ch5 ; Minato-za, in Sumi- yoshi-cho, in the native town, where there is also generally a sort of fair. Fairs are held in honour of Yakushi in Motomachi Itchome on the 8th and 12th of every month, and at Nogeyama in honour of the Sun-Goddess and of Fud5, on the Ist, 15th, and 28th.

Pvhlie Garden and Cricket Ground.

n

n

— At the back of the Settlement, behind the American Consulate; Bluff Gardens, No. 230.

Hfevoapapers. — " Japan Ga.zette, " Japan Mail," and "Japan Herald, daily.

HiBTOBT.— Yokohama owes its com- mercial importance to the foreigners who have settled there. It was an insignificant fishing village when Commodore Perry anchored off it in 1864; and when it vras agreed to open a Treaty Port in this part of tlapan, tne choice naturally fell, not on Yokohama, but on the thriving tofvn of Kanagawa, on the opposite side of the small Day now partially filled in. But the Japanese Government, finding Kanagawa inconvenient because of its situation on the Tdkaid5, at a time when collisions between foreigners and the armed re- tainers of the Daimyds passing to and from the capital were to be appre- hended, gave facilities for leasing ground at Yokohama instead. Thither accordingly the merchants, anxious to open up trade, repaired in 1869. The consuls protested against the change ; but the only lasting result of their pro- test is the retention of the name Kana- gawa in certain ofS-cial documents. The superiority of the Yokohama anchorag^e doubtless reconciled the foreign com- munity to the inferior position of the place on a mud flat facing North. The greater portion of the Settlement, aa it now exists, dates from after the fire of 1866, and the filufE on which most of the well-to-do residents have their dweUings was first leased for building purposes in 18'{7. A large and rapidly growing native town has sprung up outside the foreign Settlement. The government of the Settlement, at one time in the hands of a mixed foreign municipality, is at present administered by the Prefect of Kanagawa. The last of the English soldiers, by whom the Set- tlement was at one time protected, left Japan in March 1875. Waterworks were constructed under the dii'ection of Major- General Palmer, R. B., and opened in October 1887 to supply Yokohama from the Sagami-gawa, 28 m. distant.

It should be explained that although the streets have names, these are comparatively little used, as the numbering of the whole Settlement is continuous, irrespec- tive of street names. A similar remark applies to the Bluff.

Yokohama possesses a Public Hall where theatrical and other entertainments are given, a fine Masonic Hall, and a Race Oourso.

Route 2, — Excursions from Yokohama.

55

Sace meetings, often attended l)y His Majesty the Mikado, are lield in spring and autumn. Though Yokohama offers little to 1>he sightseer^ the curio-hunter 'will here find himself in his ele- ment, and the lover of the pictur- esque wiU revel in the beautiful landscapes for which the neigh- bourhood is famous.

ROUTE 2.

EXCXTBSIONS FBOM YOKOHAMA.

1. KAHAETTBA AND THB DAIBUTSU. 2. ENOSHIHA. 8. DZT7SHI AND HOBIUCHI. 4. EANAZAWA AND MINE. 6. SUeiTA AND TOMIOKA. 6. TOK08UKA, XTBAGA, AND MI- BAKI. 7. THE CAVES OF TOTSUKA. 8. OTAMA. 9. disc. 10. EOZIT.

1. — Kamakttba.

Kamakura is reached from Yoko- hama in 50 min. by the Tokaido Kailway, changing carriages at Ofuna Junction. This branch line continues on to Dzushi and Yoko- suka, being altogether 21^ miles in length.

Kamakara, once the populous capital of Eastern Japan, has now shrunk into a sea-side village which is a favourite health resort of the Yokohama residents. The *£[aihin-in Hotel or Marine Sana- torium, situated under a pine- grove near the shore, is 20 min. walk from the Bailway Station. The Japanese inn, Mitsuhashi, may also be recommended. Both pro- vide hot and cold salt-water baths.

Kamaknra was the seat of govern- ment in Eastern Japan from the end of the 12th to the middle of the 16th century. Yoritomo, who established the Shdgnnate in 1192, chose this place as his capital, and here was laid the found- ation of that peculiar system of govern- ment by the military class which pre- vailed up to the year 1868. The city of Kamakura, in the time of Yoritomo's immediate successors, extended all over

the plain and into the recesses of the different yatau, or dells, which branch off from it among the hills. Its popula- tion is believed to have exceeded one million in the days of its glory. Kama- kura was the scene of innumerable con- tests between rival feudal factions, and of many bloody deeds. Here on the sea-shore were beheaded the Mongol ambassadors from Kublai Khan, who had imperiously sent to demand the submission of Japan to his sway. The city was repeatedly sacked and laid in ashes, and seems never to have fully recovered from the disasters of the year 1466. The neighbouring city of Odawara, which next rose into importance as the seat of the powerful Hoj5 family, at- tracted to itself large numbers of the inhabitants of Kamakura, the ruin of which town was completed by the found- ing of Yedo in A.D. 1603.

The chief sights of Kamakura are the Temple of Hachiman, the Daibutsu or colossal bronze Bud- dha, and the great image of the goddess Kwannon. They all lie within a mile of the hotel.

The Temple of Hachiman, the God of War, dating from the end of the 12th century, stands in a commanding position on a hill called Tsuru-ga-oka, and is ap- proached by a stately avenue of pine-trees leading up the whole way from the sea-shore. Though both avenue and temple have suffered from the ravages of time, enough still remains to remind one of the ancient glories of the place. Three stone torii lead up to the temple, which stands at the head of a broad flight of stone steps. Notice the magnificent ichd tree, nearly 20 ft. in circumference and said to be over a thousand years old.

Before ascending the flight of steps, the minor shrines to the r. deserve passing notice. The nearer one, painted red and called Wakamiya, is dedicated to the Emperor Nintoku, son of the God of War. The further one, re- novated in 1890, is called Shira- hata Jinja and dedicated to Yori- tomo. The style and structure are somewhat unusual, black and gold being the only colours em-

66

Route 2. — Ejccursions from Yokohama,

ployed, and iron being the mate- rial of the four chief pillars. In the interior is a small wooden image of Yoritomo.

A side path leads up hence to the main temple, which is enclosed in a square colonnade painted red. The temple, which was re-erect- ed in 1828 after having been destroyed by fire seven years ear- lier, is in the Ryobu-Shint5 style, with red pillars, beams, and rafters, and is decorated with small painted carvings chiefly of birds and animals. In the colon- nade are several religious cars {mi koshi) used on the occasion of the semi-annual festival (15th April and 15th September), a wooden image of Sumiyoshi by Unkei, and a few relics of Yoritomo. Most of the relics once preserved in the temple have been removed to the residence of the Chief Priest {Hakozaki Oyatsu-kwan), and are only exhibited at festival time.

Immediately behind the temple of Hachiman, is a small hill called 8hirdhata-yama, whence Yoritomo is said to have often a-dmired the prospect. The base of the hill has recently been enclosed and laid out as a garden.

The Daibutsu, or 'Great Bud- dha,' stands alone among Japan- ese works of art. No other gives such an impression of majesty, or so truly symbolises the central idea of Buddhism — ^the intellect- ual calm which comes of perfected knowledge and the subjugation of aU passion. But to be fully appreciated, the Daibutsu must be visited many times.

There hfiui been a temple in this plswje eince the 8th century, but the image is of much later date. Its precise history is involved in obscurity. Tradition, how- ever, says that TJoritomo, when taking part in the dedication of the Daibutsu at Nara, conceived the desire of having a similar object of worship at his own capital, but died before he could put the plan into execution. One of the ladies of his court undertook to collect funds for the purpose, and in the year

1252 Jhe Kamakura Daibutsu was cast by Ono Goroemon, History tells of two such imHges. The first, a wooden one, was designed by a priest who col- lected money far and wide amon?st all classes, and in 1238 the head of the image, so ft. in circumference, was in its place, while the temple in which it stood was completed in 1241 and dedi- cated in l'i!43. This image is said to have represented Amida, and to have been destroyed by a tempest. The second is spoken of as a gilt bronze image of Shaka, and the casting is said to have been begun in 1252. The pre- sent one represents Amida, and notwith- standing the difference of name, is pro- bably the bronze image spoken of above as dating from 1252. It was enclosed in a large building 60 yds. square, whose roof was supported on sixty-three mass- ive wooden pillars. Many of the stone bases on which they stood are still in situ. The temple buildings were twice destroyed by tidal waves in 1869 and 1494, after which they were not rebuilt. Since that time the image has remained exposed to the elements.

The Daibutsu is best seen from about half-way up the approach. Its dimensions are approximately as follows : —

• FT. IK".

Height 49 7

Circumference 97 2

Length of face 8 5

Width from ear to ear 17 9

Eound white boss on fore- head 1 3

Length of eye: 3 11

„ of eyebrow 4 2

„ of ear 6 6

„ of nose 3 9

Width of mouth 3 2

Height of bump of wisdom. 9 Diameter of bump of wis- dom 2 4

Curls (of which there are

830): Height 9

Do. Diameter 1

Length from knee to knee 35 8 Circumference of thumb ... 3

The eyes are of pure gold, and the silver boss weighs 30 pounds avoirdupois. The image is formed of sheets of bronze cast separately, brazed together, and finished off on the outside with the chisel. The hollow interior of the in age

Kamnkura and Enoshima.

67

contains a small shrine, and the visitor may ascend into the head.

The Temple of Kwannon stands not far from the Daibutsu on an eminence commanding a beautiful view of the sea-shore towards Misaki, and over the plain of Kamakura. The great image of the Goddess of Mercy, for which this temple is cele- brated, stands behind folding doors which a small fee to the attendant priest will suffice to open ; but the figure can only be indistinctly seen by the dim light of a few candles. It is of brown lacquer gilded over, and its height is 30 ft. 5^ in. The admirable bronze seated figure of Dainichi Nyorai on the 1. was presented by the Shogun Ashi- kaga Yoshimasa (b. 1436, d. 1490).

Close to this temple is a cliff called Inamura-ga-saki, from the top of which a magnificent view can be obtained.

In 1333, when the, city of Kamakura was attacked by the partisans of the Emperor G-o-Daigo. part of the force led by Nitta Yoshisada advanced along the strand from the W. of this hill, but were unable to pass under the cliff owing to ehevaux-de-frite being placed against it down to the water's edge, while their

{)as8age in boats was prevented by a ong row of war- junks lying some 500 or WiO yds. out at sea. Yoshisada there- fore climbed the cliff, and after praying to the Sea-God, flung his sword into the sea, whereupon the tide miraculously retreated, leaving a space a mile and a half wide at the foot of the cliff, along which he marched his army into Kama- kura.

2. — ExosHnncA.

This most picturesque spot, though called an island, is more properly a peninsula ; for only at very high tides is it surrounded by the sea. The prettiest way there is by the road called Shichi-ri- ga-hama * skirting the beach from Kamakura, and through the vi lage of Katase. The distance from

•Literally, the "seven ri shore," the r» \n early times having oqI.y consisted of six eho in Eastern Japan.

Kamakura is 4 miles. Jinrikishas can be taken as far as Katase, whence it is a short walk across the neck of sand joining Enoshima to the mainland.

A sKghtly more direct way of approaching Enoshima is from Fujisawa station on the Tokaido Railway, whence it is 1 ri by jin- rikisha to Katase.

Half way is the Yukial-gawa, which, though but an insignificant streamlet, is worthy of mention on account of the following incident :—

When Nichiren was miraculously de- livered from the hand of the executioner at the neighbouring village of Koshigoe, a messenger was at once despatched to KfCmakura to ask for further orders, while at the same moment a reprieve was sent from the palace of the Regent Tokiyori. The two messengers happen- ed to meet at this stream, whence the name of Tuldai-gavoa^ which means * the river of meeting.*

Enoshima, being a popular holi- day resort, is full of excellent inns. The best are the Iwamoto-in, Klinki- ro, and Ebisu-ya. There is fair sea- bathing. The shops of Enoshima are full of shells, corals, and marine curiosities generally, many of which are brought from other parts of the coast for sale. The beautiful ' glass rope sponge ' (Hyalonema sieholdi), called hosu- gai by the Japanese, is said to be obtained from a reef deep below the surface of the_seia, not far from the island of Oshima, whose smoking top is visible to the S. on a clear day.

From the earliest ages . the island was sacred to Benten, the Buddhist Goddess of Luck; but this cult has now been exchanged for that of three Shinto god- desses. To these objects of wor- ship several temples have been re-dedicated. But the spot con- sidered most sacred of all is the large cave on the far side of the island. It is 124 yds. in depth, the height at the entrance being at least 30 ft., but diminishing gradually towards the interior. The rocks near the cave are

68

Route 2, — Excursions from Yokohama,

frequented by divers, who for a few cents bring up shell-fish from the deep, which, however, they are suspected of having pre- viously concealed about their persons.

At Katase stands the temple of Bynkdji, founded after Nichiren's death by six of his disciples, and built on the spot where his ex- ecution was to have taken place. It possesses a number of excellent wood-carvings.

3. — DZXJSHI AND HOBITJCHI.

Dznshi, on the railway, 2^ miles to the S. E. of Eamakura, is the station for Horiuclii, li miles distant, which has lately risen into favour as a sea-side resort, some of the wealthier residents of Tokyo and Yokohama having built villas there. The road from Dzushi to Horiuchi is practicable for jinrikishas, and the view from it one of the loveliest in Japan, — Fuji, which rises straight from the waters of Odawara Bay, forming the central feature of the scene. The Hikage-no-Chaya inn at Horiuchi may be recom- mended. A little nearer, the station, across a ferry, there is another inn known aB the Onsen, — rather a poor plsice, but with better bathing. From the Hika- ge-no-Chaya, bathers have a walk of about 3 min. to reach a good beach. Half a mile beyond the Hikage-no-Chaya there is a beauti- ful wooded promontory called Morita Myojin, and the whole walk for 2 m. further along the coast unfolds a succession of ex- quisite scenes.

4. — Kanazawa and Mine.

Jinrikishas may be taken the whole way ; two men required. The total distance is 4 ri 30 chd (IJf miles), the road being flat for the first 6 m., as far as the

hamlet of Seki {Inn, Ishikawa-ya), and after that, very hilly.

[At the hamlet of Tanaka, 10 cho beyond Seki, a road prac- ticable most of the way for jinrikishas, turns off r. to a hiU called Mine, which com- mands a wonderfully extensive view. The finest prospect is towards the N., looking down on a multitude of furrowed ridges that stretch away to the mountains of Kotsuke. To the W., the sea is_visible near Hiratsuka and Oiso on the T^aido, and beyond it, Fuji with the Oyama and Hakone ranges. The distance from Tanaka to Mine is 28 cho, s&y 2 mUes.]

On reaching the crest of the ridge, the wondrous beauty which has led the foreign residents to bestow on this neighbourhood the name of the Plains of Heaven, suddenly reveals itself. A scene of perfect loveliness may be en- joyed from a wayside tea-house called NoJcendo, which nestles under a pine-tree known as the Fvde-sute-matsu, because a Japa- nese artist of oMen times here flung away his pencil in despair. At the spectator's feet is a wide, cultivated valley, bordered by pine-clad hills and opening out to the shores of an inlet, whose still waters are partly hemmed in by smaU peninsulas and islets, with to the 1. the promontory of Kwannon-saki, and on the op- posite side of Tokyo Bay the long crest of Nokogiri-yama. The most conspicuous of the islands are Natsushima (Webster Island) with Sarushima (Perry Island) beyond it, and Eboshi-jima which is much smaller and to be re- cognised by its triangular shape. But a mere catalogue of names can avail nothing towards con- veying an idea of the peculiar magic of a scene which might be

Route 2, — Kanazawa, Sugita, Yokosuka,

59

the original that inspired the Japanese landscape painter's art.

KanazAUva (Inns, Chiyo-moto, Azuma-ya), on the shores of the Mutsura Inlet, is chiefly noted for its Hak-kei, a characteristically Japanese view from a small height just outside the village. Close to the ferry at Nojima {Inn, Nishino - ya) is a celebrated peony garden, which attracts crowds from Tokyo during the season of flowering. Some of the plants are said t^ be over 300 years old. Kanazawa may also be reached by the coast road vid Tomioka on foot in 3 hrs. The way back to Yokohama may be pleasantly varied by taking the jinrikisha road across the neck of the little peninsula of Misaki to the Dzushi station on the Yokosuka branch of the Tokaido Railway, a distance of 24 ri (6 miles). The run in from Dzushi to Yokohama takes 1 hr.

This trip may advantageously be combined with a visit to Kama- kura, the station beyond Dzushi.

5. — SuaiTA AND TOMIOKA.

It is a very pleasant walk or jinrikisha ride of about 2 ri, or 4f miles, from Yokohama to Sngita (Inns, AzumsL-ya and others), famous for its plum-blossoms ; and 1 ri further on to Toiiiioka (Inns, Kimpa-ro, Kaihin-ro), a favourite resort of the Yokohama residents, on account of the good searbathing in Mississippi Bay. Tomioka may also be easily reached by boat from the cutting at the back of the Settlement in about 40 min., the distance from the Settlement to the point where the boat is taken being approxi- mately 1 ri. . The whole neighbour- hood is delightfully picturesque.

A favourite afternoon's walk is to Macpherson's Hill {JAoritsvika), on the way to Sugita. This hill commands a fine view of Missis-

sippi Bay and of the country towards Fuji.

6. — Yokosuka, Ubaga, and Misaki.

Yokosuka is the terminus of the Of una - Eamakura - Dzushi - Yokosuka branch line of railway, and is reached from Yokohama in \\ hr. Steamers also ply between Yokohama and Yokosuka several times daily. The little line of rail- way passes through characteristic- ally Japanese scenery — wooded hiUs rising up abruptly from valleys laid out in rice-fields, with here and there a cottage or a tiny shrine half-hidden in a rustic bower. Tlie train darts in and out of short tunnels under some of these hills before reaching the sea-shore at Yokosuka.

Yokosuka (Inn, Mitomi-ya ; ¥w- eign restaurant, Kaiyo-ken), which but a few years ago was a poor village, is rapidly growing in im- portance, on account of the Govern- ment Dockyard established there. Foreigners can usually obtain ad- mittance by presenting their cards at the gate; but it is safer to provide oneself with an introduction from the naval authorities. The town is prettily situated on a landlocked bay. Its chief interest for English- men lies in the fact that here lived and died Will Adams, the first Englishman that ever reached the shores of Japan.

Will Adams, a native of Gillingham in Kent, was chief pilot to a fleet of Dutch ships which reached the Southern coast of Japan on the 19th April, A.D. IfKK). Brou^t as a prisoner into the presence of leyasu, Adams soon won the favour of that astute ruler, who employed him both as a ship-builder and as a kind of diplomatic agent when other English and Dutch traders began to Hrrive. Adams* constantly reiterated desire to behold his native land again and the wife and children whom he had left behind, was to the last frustrated by adverse circum- stances. He consoled himself by taking another wife, a Japanese, with whom he lived until his death in l620atHemi, a suburb of Yokosuka, where the railway station now stands.

60

Route 2. — Excursions Jvijin Yokohama,

His grave and that of his Japa- nese wife are situated on the top of a hill, i hr. walk from the rail- way station. The Japanese call the place Anoin-zuka, from Anjin which means " pilot," that having been the appellation by which Adams was commonly known. The tombs are of stone in the ordinary Japanese style. Will Adams' monu- ment is without an inscription, while that of his wife bears the posthumous title which every good Buddhist receives from the priests of the parish temple. The site has been well-cared for ever since the discovery and identification of the tombs in 1872 by Mr. James Walter of Yokohama. Not only is the situation of the graves most pictur- esque, but the eminence on which they stand affords a lovely view of land and sea. The place is to be recommended as a pleasant spot for a picnic.

Another vantage-point just out- side the opposite or E. end of Yoko- suka^ is Kome-no-yama, a cliff on which stands a temple of the Nichi- ren sect called Ryuhonji, possessing some good carvings. The level stretches at the foot of the cliffs have recently been reclaimed from the sea.

The distance from Yokosuka to Uraga is 1 n 32 cho (4^ miles) along an excellent road. A little more than _ half-way lies the hamlet of Otsn, where there is excellent^ Japanese accommodation at the Otsu-kwan, with a good beach for sea-bathing.

llratra (Inn, *Yoshikawa in Nishi-Uraga) is built on both sides of a very narrow fiord-like har- bour, and the two divisions thus formed are called respectively Higa- shi Uraga and Nishi Uraga, i.e.. East and West Uraga. They are connected by a bridge and a ferry.

In former times all junks entering the Bay of Yedo were stopped at Uraga for inspection, and it was here that Com- modore Perry anchored on the 8th July, 1853, bearing with him the letter of Pre-

sident Fillmore to the Shogun, the result of which was to open J apan to foreign intercourse.

Uraga is noted for its manu- facture of mizu-ame, a sweet and wholesome preparation from sake- malt, somewhat resembling honey in taste. It is worth while devoting ^ hr. to the climb up Atago-yama, a hill at the back of Nishi Uraga, close to the Yoshikawa Inn, com- manding a fine view of the town and harbour. The hiUs beyond the sea to the E. are the Boshu range.

Uraga is in daily steam com- munication with Tokyo, the steamers touching at Eachiyama, Tateyama, and other ports on the Boshu side. The passage from Tokyo takes about 4 hours.

It is a walk or jinrikisha ride of 4 n 3 chd (10 miles) to Misaki, first along the sands, and then over a cultivated upland commanding a fine view of Fuji, the Hakone and Oyama ranges, and the op- posite shores of the bay.

Misaki (Inns, Ki-no-kuni-ya, Ao- yagi ; accommodation can also be obtained at Jogashima) offers, as a somewhat unusual attraction, a Marine Biological Laboratory (Misaki Rinkai Jikken-jo) connect- ed with the Science College of the Imperial University. The marine fauna of this district being particularly rich in rare forms, dredging has produced results highly interesting to the zoologist. A lighthouse stands on the island of Jogashima, 15 cho from the mainland, with which it is con- nected by a ferry.

One may complete the tour of the Sagami Peninsula, at the ex- tremity of which Misaki stands, by a pleasant walk of about 7 ri (17 miles) along the coast to Dzushi or Eamakura.

7. — The Caves op Totsuka.

XTaya no Ana.)

Though known to foreigners as the Caves of Totsuka, these caves

Caves of TotsuJca. Oyama,

61

are really nearer to Ofuna, the next station beyond Totsuka on the Tokaido Railway, 40 min. run from Yokohama. They lie_at a distance of 12 or 15 cho from Ofuna station, but nearly 1^ ri from Totsuka station. Whichever sta- tion it be decided to alight at, the trip on to the caves can be done by jinrikisha, and lies through pretty scenery. The caves are well worth a visit; but as they are apt to be wet, it is advisable to wear old clothes for the occasion. The best time to choose is the spring, as the cherry-trees too will then be seen to advantage. Candles are provided at a house near the entrance, where also it would be possible to picnic. A local guide will point out the Buddhist carvings with which the walls and ceilings are adorned.

These caves with their carvings are a monument of modern Bud- dhist piety. Existing in embryo since the Middle Ages (they are said by tradition to have served for the coneealment both of troops and of treasure in the 14th cen- tury), they have only been excavat- ed to their present extent by an old man still living — one Sato Shichizaemon, also known as Kinoue-no-Inkyo — whose family have for generations been rich peasants in this locality. In the year 1851, this man was urged in a dream to devote his life to making these caves into an imperishable shrine to various Buddhist divin- ities, and especially to the Goddess Benten. This he accordingly did and still continues to do, employing his own money for the enterprise and local talent for the carvings. Among the latter may be (Ss- tinguished angels, dragons, lions, birds both natural and mythical, the Twelve Signs of the Zodiac, the Eighteen Eakan, the Thirty-Three Kwannon of the district of Chichi- bu, and other Buddhas innumer- able. To explore the caves pro-

perly takes about 1 hr. The rock being quite soft, it may be feared that this strange monument will not prove as lasting as old Mr. Sato piously anticipates.

8. — Otama.

This celebrated mountain, about 4,000 ft. high, is most easily reached from Yokohama by alighting at Hiratsuka station on the Tokaido Eailway, a run of a little over 1 hr.;_thence by jinrikisha to the vill. of Oyama on the lower slope, 3i ri (9i miles) distant. It is a favourite goal of pilgrims, who continue to be attracted to its shrine, although the old Buddhist objects of worship have here, as in so many other parts of the country, been replaced officially by comparatively obscure Shin- to deities. Indeed, according to Satow, it is uncertain who these gods are; but the best authority asserts that the chief deity is Iwanaga-hime, sister to the god- dess of Mount Fuji. The people of the neighbouring country-side often call the mountain by the name of Sekison-san.

Jinrikishas are left at the vill. of Koyasii (Iriri,Koma-ya), along street of steps, which at its _ upper end changes its name to Oyauia (Inn, *Kame-ya, with curious garden). Such of the inhabitants as do not keep houses of entertainment for the pilgrims who flock here during the month of June, busy themselves with the manufacture of rosaries, toys, and domestic utensils. The traveller wiU notice that the posts of two shrines in the village are so much cut away in the centre as scarcely any longer to support the roof. This has been done by devotees who believe that the chips act as charms.

The ascent and descent of the mountain take from 4 to 4^ hrs., but are far more fatiguing than

62

Eoute S, — Yokohama to Tokyo by RaiL

most climbs of the same length owing to the multitude of steps. A little way beyond the inns, a stream rushes out of a hole in a rocky wall some 20 ft. high, and falls into a pool, in which it is con- sidered highly meritorious to bathe as long as the cold can be endured. Some way further up, the en- trance to the sacred domain is in- dicated by a torii perched on the top of a flight of steps. Here the traveller has to choose between the Otoho-zaka ('man's ascent'), and Onna-zaka (* woman's ascent '), the former a continuous series of steep flights of high steps, the latter longer but less fatiguing. Both paths unite higher up. The view from this point includes the plains of Sagami and Musashi, with the river Banyu, Capes Misaki and Sunosaki at the entrance of Tokyo Bay, the sea, and the moun- tains of Kazusa. Some flights of steps lead up to the main temple, whence it is a climb of 28 cKq to the summit which commands a view of Fuji, the wooded top of Tanzawa, the mountains of Nikko, Enoshima, etc.

9. — OlSO AND Kozu.

Oiso is 1 ^ hr. from Yokohama by the Tokaido Railway. A pleasant day may here be spent loitering on the beautiful beach and bathing in the sea. There is a lovely view : — to the r., Fuji, the Hakone range, and the peninsula of Izu : ahead, Vries Island; to the 1., the pro- montory of Misaki with the islet of Enoshima. The Toryo-kwan at Oiso is an excellent inn in Japanese style, at which some simple Euro- pean dishes, such as fried fish, omelette, and chicken, may be obtained, and where there is a resident doctor.

Oiso, though apparently so in- significant a place, is of consider- able antiquity. Mention of it occurs in the story of the Soga

Brothers* Revenge in the 12th century (see Route 6).

Kozu (inn, Hayano), the station beyond Oiso, is another pleasant sea-side village, having much the same view, and well-protected from cold winter winds — an advantage to which the groves of orange- trees covering all the surrounding slopes bear witness.

ROUTE 8. Yokohama to ToktO bt Rail.

Distance

from

Yokohama.

Names

of Stations.

BemarkB.

Um. 6i 7* 12

14f

18

YOKOHAMA.

Kanagawa.

Express mnn through.

/Change carri- ages for Sub-

• urban and Northern Kail-

Vways.

Shimbashi St.

Kawasaki

Omori

Shinagawa

TOKYO

■ The railway journey from Yoko- hama to Tokyo occupies 60 min. The line skirts the shores of Tokyo Bay, with the old Tokaido high- way recognisable at intervals on the r. by its avenue of pines. This railway, built by English engineers and finished in the autumn of 1872, was the first line opened to traflBlc in Japan.

Soon after leaving Yokohama, the Tokaido Railway branches off 1. Observe the fine view of Fuji near the first station,

Eanagawa, once a noted post- town on the Tokaido, and intimately connected with the first settlement of foreigners in this part of Japan. (See p. 54.)

II I

h

u

I 1

Route 4, — Tokyo.

68

Kawasaki (Inn, Asada-ya) is noted for a temple situated If m. from the station, dedicated to Kobo Daishi and commonly known as Daishi 8ama. So great is its popularity tliat special trains are run on the 21st of each month to accommodate the crowds that visit it. The greatest festival is on the 21st March, when the grounds are filled with cheap staUs and itin- erant shows. The temple possesses some excellent carvings. The river which is crossed just beyond Kawa> saki is the Tamagawa or Kokugo, the upper course of which is romantically beautiful and is de- scribed in !Boute 10. Between this Station and the next, the Nikko and Chichibu ranges come in view ahead to the 1. On approaching

Omoii, the fine wooded blufi seen 1. is the site of the noted monastery of Ikegami. Immediately above the station lie the grounds of a tea-house commanding a fine pro- spect, and the range of the Imperial Japanese_£ifle Club. The shell- heaps of Omori discovered by Prof. Morse have furnished interesting prehistoric remains, which have been the subject of vehement dis- cussion among the learned. At

ShinagaTFa are seen the forts built in the bay during the latter days of the Shogunate, but now dismantled because useless in modern warfare. Just beyond the Cras. Works, the line skirts r. the prettily laid out garden of the Shiha RikyO, one of the minor Imperial palaces, and soon after, the train enters the Shimbashi Terminus, and the traveller is in Tokyo.

BOUTE 4.

Tokyo.

Tokyo, also called Tokei, former- ly Yedo.

Hotels. — Imperial Hotel and To- kyo Hotel, both centrally situated ; Club Hotel, *in Tsukiji; Seiy6ken, near the Shimbashi terminus, with branch in Ueno Park. •

Japanese Inns. — Fushimi-ya, in Koku-cho; Higuchi-ya, in Shiro- kane-cho ; Karimame-ya, in Baku- ro-cho, — all in the Nihon-bashi district.

Restaurants. — (Foreign food) Fu- getsu-do, near Shimbashi, with confectionery shop ; Sanyen-tei, in Shiba Park; Fujimi-ken, not far from the British Legation ; Mikawa-ya, in Kanda. — (Japanese food) Taozen, at San-ya, Asakusa ; Yaomatsu, at Mukojima; Hirasei, in Fukagawa; Tokiwa-ya, in Yagen- bori.

Tea-houses ('for entertainments in Japanese style). — Nakamura-ro, at Ryogoku ; Ibumura-ro, at Asakusa ; 0-un-tei, in Ueno Park.

Club. — The Tokyo Club, occupy- ing a portion of the Hokumei-kwan, 6 min. from Shimbashi terminus.

Foreign Legations. — ^Austro Hun- gary, 15, Kami Nibanch5 ; France, 1, lida-machi Itchome ; Germany, 14, Nagata-cho ; Great Britain, 1, Kojimachi Gobancho ; Holland (Denmark and Norway), 3, Shiba Sakae-cho; Italy, 4, Sannen-cho; Bussia, - 1, Ura-Kasumi-ga-seki ; United States, 1, Akasaka Enoki- saka.

General Post Office. — At Yedo- bashi.

Central Telegraph Office. — In Ko- biki-cho, near the Shimbashi ter- minus. Sub-offices in various dis- tricts of the city.

Telephone Exchange. — In No. 1 Eirakucho Nichome, with fifteen Call Offices in the city.

Parks. — Shiba, Ueno, and Asa- kusa.

liottle 4. — Tukyo.

[uteams. — Tto Hakubntm-kwaB,

TTeno Park ; Educational Mu-

am, in the Seido at Hougo ;

.iiseum of Arms, in the grounds

I the Shokouaba temple at Koji-

Puilic lilirarv— TheTosho-kwan, n Ueno Park.

Chvxches. — Church of England, in Shiba Sakae-choi AmerioBJi Epis- lopal. Union Church (Protestant), Soman Catholic, all in Taukiji; jentralTaber»ac*e,inHong6; Eus- lian Orthodox, at Suruga-dai.

Theaires.— Kahuki-za, in Kobiki- •ho; Shintomi-za, inTsukiji; Na-

Wrestling. — At Eko-in, in Honjo, ^ce yearly for ten days in winter ind spring. Also at other times md places not fixed.

Boeoars {Kwankiia). — In Shiba Park, and smaller ones in the

A Sailvyay, officially styled the ' TokjO and Akabane Juaction," tut generally known as the Sub- irban or Circular Railway, afiorda kn easy means of reai^hing certain Ktints on the outskirts of the city. I'he following is a schedule of the itations \-^

s -i

Names

s^^

at

=i"°

SUCione.

SHIHBASHI.

"iSO.

n

SUiDjikn JcC.

iS^^cE'

\l\

Uajlro. ItabflBbi.

i«i

AKABANE Jet.

Conveyamcea. — Jinrikishas are in iniversal nae. Tramcara, not much latrunised by Europeans, run from he Shimbashi terminus along the irincipal thoroughfare to Ueno jld Asakusa, Omnibuses are be- Parties may

Livery stahlet. — Eawanishi at Monzflla-mae in Taukiji ; Nishi- kaji at Nishiki-cho, Kanda, Itcho-

Steom Comtnunicoiion, — The com- pany called the Tokyo Wan Kiaen- Gwaisha runs steamers to Uraga in tbe Misaki peninsula, and to Kanaya, Kachiyama, Hojo, Tate- jama, etc., on the other side of TpkyoBaj. Twicfldaily, viz., 7 a.h. and 8 A.u., taking 7 hrs. to reach Tateyama.

2. The same company mns steamers to Yawata and other small ports at the head of the Bay and to Eisarazn. Daily at 8 a.m., taking 4 hrs. to reach Kiaarazu.

3. Also to Ataani and Ajiro, sometimes continuing on to Shi- moda in the province of Izu. Sail- ings iiregnlar. Tiiue, 8 brB. to

All the steamers of the above company start from &eigan-jima.

TbeTsii-un Kwaisha runs steam- era on the Tonegawa, of which

4. Those of the Shimo-Tone, or Lower Tonegawa line, run to Cho- shi, Ofonatau, and Uokoda, touch- ing at various minor places on the river. Daily at 7 p.k.

6. Those of the Kami-Tone, or Upper Tonegawa line, run to Gyo- toku, Ichikawa, Matsndo, Shin- kawa, Sekiyado, Kurihashi, Eo^, and minor points higher up. Datlj at 8 p.B. Time, 14 hrs. to Koga.

The steamers of the Tsn-un. Kwaisha start from Byo^oku-bashi.

The local steamers are but little

the

better class of Japanese, as they ai small and make scant pretension to comfort. There is not even always a distinction of classes, though it is sometimes possible to secure a aeoarate room by paving the price of fite tickets. The fares are extremely low. The following are some of the

Shops. Festicals,

65

cliief shops at which articles likely to interest the tourist are sold : —

Porcelain. — Kawamoto, dealer in Owari ware, at No. 6, Ginza Nicho- me ; Imari, at Kanda Imagawa- bashi, and Takahashi, at Nihon- bashi Tomijima-cho, for various kinds of ware.

Lacquer. — Saito Masakichi, at No. 12, Ginza Nichome ; Nakamura Kinosuke, at Kyobashi Owari-cho !N"ich6me., Both the above deal in gold lacquer, while the two follow- ing sell various other kinds, pro- vincial specialties, etc. : Kuroe-ya, at Tori Itchome; Suruga-ya, in Bakuro-cho.

Bronze. — Miyao, at No. 1, Nihon- bashi Hon-Shirokane-cho (large things) ; Mikawa-ya,at Soto-Kanda Hatago-cho Itchome (chiefly small things).

Cloisonne. — Namikawa, at No. 8, Nihon-bashi Shin-emon-cho.

Swords. — Murata Kimbei, at Nihon-bashi Kawasekoku-cho (also sells other curios).

Ivory. — Wakatake, at No. 6, Ni- hon-bashi Hisamatsu-ch5 ; Sawada- ya, at No. 8, Ryogoku Yonezawa- cho Nichome.

Paper and Fans. — Haibara, at No. 1, Nihon-bashi Tori Itchome.

Old Silk and Damask. — Iwamoto Denshichi, at No. 16, Nihon-bashi Kawasekoku-cho ; Morita, at No. 8, Nihon-bashi Sanai-cho.

Curios in General. — Daizen, in Naka-dori _(chiefly for expensive articles) ; Osaka-ya, at No. 20, Ni- hon-bashi Aomono-cho ; Ebi-ya, at No. 5, Nihon-bashi Jikken-dana (specialty, old lacquer) ; Handa-ya, at No. 5, Nihon-bashi Honkoku-cho Itchome.

8ilk Mercers. — Daimaru, in Hata- go-cho ; Echigo-ya, in Muro-machi ; Shiroki, in Tori Itchome; Mizu- shima (also sells European articles for presents), in Honcho Itchome, — aU in the Nihon-bashi district.

There is also a very interesting street called Naka-dori, running parallel to the main thoroughfare between Kyobashi and Nihon- bashi, full of shops where old curios and brocade are exposed for sale. The best Bazaars (Kwan- koha), where new articles of every- day use may be bought are those in Shiba Park, Ginza (Maruju no Kwankoha), at Kanda Ogawa-machi, and at Kudanzaka-shita.

Chief Popular Festivals.

DATE.

Monthly, 5th

Monthly, 10th

Monthly, 17-18th...

Monthly, 21st

Monthly, 24th

First Bay of the Hare (hatsu-^) ...

April 17th

April 18th

May 6-8th

June 3rd

June3-14th

NAME OP FESTIVAL.

8uiten-gu

Konvpira

Kwannon

Daishi

Atago Jinja

Myokendo

Toshogu

8anja Matsuri

Shokonsha (races, etc.).

Kumano Jinja

Tenn^) Matsuri

Mid- July Kawa-hiraki (Opening

of the River)

July 7- 14th Tenno Matsuri

July 15th Sanno

WHERE HELD.

Kakigara-cho.

Tora-no-mon.

Asakusa.

Kawasaki.

Atagoshita.

Yanagi-shima. Shiba and Ueno Parks. Asakusa. Kudan.

ligura and Aoyama. Shinagawa, Yotsuya, Asa- kusa, Senji.

Ryogoku.

Nakabashi.

Nagata-cho.

66

Route 4, — Tokyo.

DATE.

NAME OF FESTIVAL.

WHEBE HELD.

July loth Hikawa Jivja Akasaka.

July 15th Hachiman Nagata-chd.

September 1 l-20th.. Shimmei Matsuri Shiba.

September 13th . . . Ushijima no Jinja Mukojima.

September 14-1 6th.. Kanda Myojin Kanda.

October 12-13th ... 0 Eshihi (Anniversary

of Nichiren's death)... Ikegami and Hori-no-uchi.

October 15th Karvda Myojin Kanda.

November 6-8th ... S?idfc<m8?ia, (races, etc.)... Kudan.

November 22-28th. . 0 Kd Mairi Monzeki temple at Asakusa.

November (on Days

of the Bird, tori

n^ hi) Tori no machi Asakusa.

Akin to the popular festivals (matsuri) are the following fairs (ichi), held at the close of the year for the citizens to make seasonable purchases : —

December 13th Tenno Sama Shinagawa.

December 15th Hachiman Fukagawa.

December 17-I9th... Kwannon Asakusa.

December 20-21st. . . Kanda Myojin Kanda.

December 22-23rd.. . Shimmei Shiba.

December 23-24th... Atago Atagoshita.

December 25th Tenjin , Hirakawa.

December 27-28th... Fvdo Yagen-bori.

Flowers.

Flum - blossoms. — The Kameido Ume-yashiki and the Kamata Ume- yashiki near Kawasaki, at end of January and beginning of Fe- bruary.

Cherry-blossoms. — Ueno, Muko- jima, and Shiba, early in April j Koganei, middle of April.

Peonies. — Florists* gardens at So- mei, end of April; Shokwa-en in Azabu, beginning of May.

Wistarias, — Kameido, first week in May.

_ Aealea^s. — Florists' gardens at Okubo-mura, early in May.

Irises. — Horikiri beyond Muko- jima, early in June.

Convohmli. — Florist's gardens at Iriya in Shitaya, end of July and beginning of August.

LotiLs-fiowers. — Lake Shinobazu at Ueno and the Castle moats, be- ginning of August.

Chrysanthemums. — Dango-zaka and Asakusa, beginning of Novem- ber.

Maples. — Kaianji at Shinagawa, beginning of November; Oji, mid- dle of November.

Principal Places Worth Visiting. — Shiba and Ueno Parks (Tombs of the Tokugawa Shoguns in both, the former most easily accessible). Temple of Kwannon at Asakusa, Hakubutsu-kwan Museum at Ueno, the Kwankoba Bazaar in Shiba, Atago Tower for view of the city. Drive along the main street {Chin- za) to Nihon-bashi and round the inner moat.

Time to Chief Points by jinrikisha with two men.

From Shimbashi terminus to : —

Imperial Hotel 5 Min.

Tokyo Hotel 7

Club Hotel 12

Rokumei-kwan 5

British Legation 18

American Legation 10

Shiba Park 10

Ueno Park 35

Asakusa (Kwannon) 40 „

*»

»

>f

»

»>

it

y»

History and Topography,

67

History awd TopoaiLLPHT. — Previous to its becoming the military capital of Japan in the year 1590, Yedo was little more than a rude fortress surrounded by a fe*^ scattered villages. This fortress was founded in 14&6 by a certain Ota Dokwan. From 1486 to 1624, it was held by vassals of the Uesugi family, but in the latter year was taken from them *by H9j5 Ujitsuna, who was then rising to be roler of the Eastern provinces, and had his capital at Odawara, close to the foot of the Hakone pass. In the 13th century, the the district now called Asakusa stood on tlie sea-shore, at the mouth of a con- siderable inlet. The name Yedo means * Estuary Grate.* At the time leyasu took possession in 1690, the coast on the E. side of the river had advanced greatly below Asakusa ; but large lagoons still occupied areas which have since been filled up and bnilt over. Ota D5kwan's fortress occupied a portion of the ground which was later included in the Palace of the Shoguns and now in that of His Majesty the Emperor. The Shdgnn's Palace, or Castle as it was often called, was several times burnt down and rebuilt, and was totally de- stroyed by a fire which took place on the 17th July, 1863. A separate building in the enclosure which had been the resid- ence of the heir-apparent to the Shogun- ate, was appropriated for the Emperor's use after the removal of H. M. to Tokyd in 1868. But this too, was burnt down on the night of the 5th May, 1873. From that time forward the Emperor occupied the Palace at Aoyama, now inhabited by the Crown Prince, until the construction on the old site in 1889 of a new Palace, semi- Japanese and semi-foreign iu style. Yedo has been repeatedly visited by destructive fires. In 1601 the whole city was laid in ashes. At that time all the houses were thatched with grass, the use of tiles not having been allowed to the citizens titl the middle of the 17th century. Great fires occuired in 1657 and again in 166B. The greatest conflagration in more modem times took place in 1845. In 1603 a large part of the hill now called Buruga Dai was cut away, and the soil used to fill up four square miles of shallow inlets on the S. side of the town. The same year witnessed the contruction of the great bridge, Nihon-bashi, from which distances have since been measured along the chief roads of the Empire. In 1642, a regulation was made whereby the Daimy os were obliged to reside alternately in Yedo and on their domains for certain fixed periods. A map dated 1632 shows that^the greater part of what now forms the Kyoba- shi district, including Tsukiji, was re- claimed from the sea subsequent to that date. Up to about the year 1650, the towns- people depended for their water supply on the stream from Kanda-yama and the lake of Tame-ike ; but shortly afterwards an aqu^uct was constructed on the N. side to bring water from the I-no-kashira, Zem-

pukuji, and MyoshO-ji lakes, as well as from the Tamagawa into the city. In 1653, the Tamagawa aqueduct, which enters the city by way of Yotsuya, was constructed, its length being about 27 miles.

In 1660, the first theatre was built in Kobiki-cho by one Morita Kan-ya, whose name has been borne by successive gene- rations of impreKtri. The history of the city for the most part consists of a succession of earthquakes, fires, ty- phoons, epidemics, fioods, and droughts. The year 1703 was marked by a great earthquake; it is said that on this occasion the deaths in Yedo alone were 37,000. An epidemic which raged in 1773 is stated to have carried off 190,000 per- sons, chiefly of the lower classes. On the 11th November, 1855, the last great earth- quake occurred, when the loss of life was computed at 100,000 persons. But recent investigations have shown that this was a gross exaggeration.

On the 13th September, 1868, the desig- nation of the city was changed to Tokyd or Tokei, either being a correct way of pronouncing the two Chinese characters

JSC^ which are used in writing the name, the signification of which is 'Eastern Capital,' given in contradistinction to

SaikyS, Q^, or 'Western Capital,' ap-

filied at the same time to Kydto. n November of the same year the Mikado visited Tokyo for the first time, and it became the recognised seat of Grovemment on the 26th March, 1869. A great change has since taken place in the outward appearance of the city. Most of the yathiki, or mansions of the territorial nobility, have been pulled down to make room for new buildings better adapted to modem needs. At the same time, the disappearance of the two-sworded men, the supersession of the palanquin (kaqo) by the jinrikisha, the very general adoption of foreign dress, and the European style of dressing the hair which is now almost universal among the men, have robbed the streets of the picturesqueness for- merly so attractive to the foreign visitor. The construction dl buildings in European style dates from about 1872. TSkyo was thrown open to foreign travel in 1869, but not to foreign residence. Tsukiji, the foreign concession (Kyoryii-chi)^ is still the only quarter in which foreigners can hold land.

The city is divided for administrative purposes into fifteen districts (Ku)^ viz : —

I, Koji-machi. 2, Kanda, 3, Nihon-bashi, 4, Kyo-bashi. 5, SMba. 6, Azabu. 7, Akasaka. 8, Yotsuya. 9, Ushigome. 10, Koishikawa.

II, Hongo, 12, Shitaya. 18, Asakusa. 14, Honjo. 15, Fukagawa. The principal suburbs are Shinagawa S., on the Tokai- d6 ; Naito Shinjiku W,, on the Chichibu road ; Itabashi N.W., on the Nakasendd ; and Senji N. E., on the Osha Kaid9. Toky5 is popularly estimated to cover an area or four ri in every direction, in

63

Route 4. — Tokyo.

other worda, a hundred square miles. The population is officially stated to be, in round numbers, 1,889,000, but this includes the whole metropolitan district (lohyo FuJ. The city proper has only 90(»,f>00. TokyS was connected by railway with Yokohama in the autumn of 1872 ; horse tramways were laid along the main thoroughfares in 1882; the first electric lighting company was farmed in 18S6, and a telephone exchange was opened in liiiiO. In the same year, a short electrical railway was laid within the grounds of the Ueno Park. Three great Industrial Exhibitions have been held in Tokyo, the first in 1877, and the last in 189«). The buildings of the Imperial Diet, inaugurated in November, 1890, were burnt down two months later. A plan of city improvement has recently been adopted,in consequence of which the narrower streets of any dis- trict burnt down are widened, and better sanitary arrangements introduced.

Owing to the shape and the vast extent of the city, it is impossible to^combine all the chief sights in a single round. The best plan is to take them in groups, according to the direction in which they lie. The following description proceeds on this principle.

1. — The Kwankoba. Shiba Park. Temples and Tombs op the Sho- GUNs. Zempukuji. The Fortt-

8EVEN BONINS. NyORAIJI. AtA- GO-YAMA.

From the Shimbashi Railway terminus, a long narrow street, called Hikage-cho at the beginning and 8himmei-mae at the end, leadS to Shiba Park, and is worth stroll- ing along for the sake of the shops.

Passing through the Daimon or * Great Gate', we turn through the park r. to the Kwankoba, the best bazaar in Tokyo, where all prices are fixed, and every sort of article used in the daily life of the Japanese people may be obtained.

Shiba Park {Shiba E:oenehi) formed, till 1877, the gfrounds of the great Bud- dhist temple of Zo/6ji, the head-quarters in this city of the Jodo sect. Here are still presei-ved the Mortuary Temples (Go Itei- va) of several of the Tokugawa Shoguns, leyasu, the founder of that dj'uasty and of Yedo, having taken ZojSji under his special protection, and chosen it as the

temple where the funeral tablets {ihai) of himself and his descendants should be preserved. The monastery had been originally founded in 1398, but was re- moved in 1696 to the present site. The partial transfer of the temple to the Shin- tOists, in 1873, naturally led to friction between them and the Buddhists, the gravest consequence of which was the destruction by fire of the magnificent main buildingr on the 1st January, 1874. It has lately been replaced by a new build- ing, smaller and much less beautiful. Only the large gate (Mmmon) remains just as it was built in 1623. This temple, which is used for popular worship, must not be mistaken for one of the Mortuary Temples.

The following is a list of the Tokugawa Shoguns. Those whose names are marked with an asterisk are buried at Ueno, at the opposite end of Tokyo ; those whose names have a dagger prefixed lie at NikkO, 100 miles to the N. of Tokyo, and the others at Shiba.

PEBSOn-AL POSTHUMOUS DIED

NAME. TITLE. A.O.

1.

2.

8.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15.

tieyasu TOshogll 1616

Hidetada Taitokuin 1682

tiemitsu Taiyain 1661

•letsuna (Jen-ynin 1680

♦Tsunayoshi ...Joken-in 1709

lenobu Bunshoin 1713

letsugu Yashoin 1761

•Yoshimune ...Yatokuin 1761

leshige Junshin-in 1761

♦leharu Shimmeiin 1786

♦lenari Bunkyoin 1841

leyoshi Sbintokuin 1853

•lesada Onkyoin 1858

lemochi Shotokuin 1866

Yoshinobu (usually called Keiki), still living at Shizuoka in Suruga.

. The Shiba Temples, which are among the chief marvels of Japa- nese art, should, if possible, be visited on the forenoon of a fine day. Otherwise their situation, and the black boarding which has been put up to ward off the attacks of the weather, will interfere with a proper enjoyment of their minutely elaborate decorations. They may best be taken in the following order. Persons pressed for time might limit themselves to an in- spection of the temple and tomb (Octagonal Shrine) of the 2nd Shogun only (See p. 72).

The entrance to the Mortuary Chapels of letsugu and leshige, the 7th and 9th Shoguns, is immediately opposite the Kwan-

Shibii Temples.

69

koba. A highly ornamented gate called the Ni-Ten Mon, or ' Gate of the Two Deva Kings/ leads into a court containing nume- rous stone lanterns offered by Daimyos as a mark of respect tc> the memory of their deceased lord and master, the Shogunf At the opposite end of the court is the ChoJcu-gahu Hon, or 'Gate of the Imperial Tablet/ so called from a tablet hung over the lintel, con- taining in gold letters the post- burnous name of the 7th Shogun in the fac-simile of the hand- writing of the Mikado known to history as Naka-no-Mikado-no-In (d. 1737). This gate is remarkable for its pillars with dragons twisted round them, originally gilt over a coating of red oxide of iron. Pass- ing through this gate, we enter an inner court lined with bronze lanterns, two hundred and twelve in all, dating some from A.B. 1716, some from 1761, also the gift of Daimyos, and having r. a belfry and 1. a cistern for holy water. Hence through a third gate called the 0 Kara Hon, on either side of which stretches a gallery with beautifully painted carvings of flowers and birds in the panels. Observe the angel on the ceiling, the work of Kano Bydsetsu. A short colonnade of black pUlars edged with gold leads to the por- tico of the temple, where, among other marvels of carving, are two dragons, called ' the ascending and descending dragons ' (Nohori-ryu and Kudari-ryu), serving as beams to connect the temple with two pillars outside.

Up to this point the public has free admittance. Those desirous of seeing the interior of the temple, together with the tombs, must apply to the custodian, and pay Mm on departing a fee of 20 cents per head. Boote must of course be removed before entering. These observations hold good at all the other Mortuary Temples. The

visitor is led directly into the sanctum containing the altar. And here be it observed that each of these Mortuary Temples con- sists of three parts, — an outer oratory (haiden), a connecting gal- lery ot corridor (ai-no-ma) , and an inner sanctum (honden). In each of these one finds oneself in a blaze of gold, colours, and elaborate arabesques, which, especially if the day be fine, quite dazzle the eye by their brilliancy. In feudal times, when the Shogun came to worship the spirits of his ancestors, he alone ascended to the sanctum, the greater Daimyos ranged them- selves next to him in the corridor below, whUe the lesser nobility occupied the oratory.

The altar of this temple is separa- ted from the corridor by one of those bamboo blinds bound with sUk, which, together with a peculiar kind of banner, temper the bril- liancy of the other decorations. The sanctum contains three double- roofed shrines of the most gorgeous gold lacquer, picked out with body- colour below the eaves, and held together by costly and elaborate metal-work. That to the r. con- tains a wooden image of the father of the 6th Shogun, that in the middle an image of the 7th Sh5- gun, and that to the 1. one of the 9th Shogun, together with the funeral tablets of each. The images, which are considered sacred be- cause presented by Mikados, are never shown. On either side of each shrine stand wooden statu- ettes of the 8M Tenno, who, accord- ing to the Buddhist mythology, guard the world against the at- tacks of demons. In front are Kwannon and Benten. The wall at the back is gilt, while the altar and two tables in front are of splendid red lacquer. In innu- merable places may be seen the three-leaved Asarum or Kamo-aoi, which is the crest of the Toku- gawa family, and the lotus, the

70

Route 4, — Tokyo.

Buddhist emblem of purity. The altar is protected at night by massive gilt gates ornamented with the family crest and conven- tional flowers. Descending into the corridor, and noticing a« we pass the gorgeous panelling of the ceiling, we reach the oratory, where the decorations are on a similar scale of magnificence. Ob- serve the conventional paintings of lions on the wall. Under the baldachin sits on festival days (12th and 13th of each month, when visitors are not admitted) the abbot of Zojoji, while the priests are ranged around at small lacquer tables. The lacquer boxes on the latter contain scrolls of the Buddhist Scriptures. As the guide leads the way from the temple to the tombs, observe on the eaves the carvings of musical instruments, lions, dra- gons, etc. Observe, too, the car- vings of unicorns (kirin) on the Oshir-hwi Hon, or * Dividing Gate,' which is now passed through. Although the carving is open- work, the dragons appear quite different according to the side from which they are viewed. Thence through a noble court with more bronze lanterns, to a stone staircase which leads up to the site of the Tombs, — that of the 7th Shogun to the 1., that of the 9th Shogun to the r. Below each tomb is a highly decorated oratory. The tombs are of stone, in the shape called hdto (treasure shrine), which somewhat resembles a pagoda. They stand on an octa- gonal granite base, with a stone balustrade. Their simplicity con- trasts strongly with the lavish magnificence of all that goes be- fore. As Mitford says in his * Tales of Old Japan/ ' the sermon may have been preached by design, or it may have been by accident, but the lesson is there.'

The pattern on the black copper facing round the wail enclosing

the tomb, is intended to represent the waves of the sea. The body is said to be buried at a depth of 20 ft., and to have been coated with vermilion and charcoal pow- der to prevent decay. The tomb of the 9th Shogun is a replica of that of the 7th. On leaving this place, we pass the oratory of the 9th Shogun, and notice the exqui- site carvings in high relief of pea- cocks on the panels of the gate.

Leaving this temple by the Cho' hi-gaku Jfon, and turning r. through rows of stone lanterns, we soon reach r. another splendidly carved gate, which gives access to the temple and tombs of the 6th, 12th, and 14th Shoguns. In arrange- ment, the temple closely resembles the one we have just left; but the gilt is fresher, the carvings truer to nature, and the general impression more magnificent, the result perhaps of the interest taken by the 6th Shogun in the preparation of his own last resting place. The flowers and birds in the spaces between the cornice and the Untel of the oratory are per- fect, both in chiselling and in de- licacy of colour. The coffered ceil- ing is a masterpiece ; and the vista of the altar, as one stands under the baldachin, reveals an in- describable glory of blended gold and colours. The order of the shrines on the altar is, from r. to ]., that of the 12th, 6th, and 14th Shoguns, the shrine of the last containing also the funeral tablet of his consort.

From the Mortuary Temple, a flight of steps at the back leads up to the tombs of these three Sho- guns and of the consort of the 14th, who was aunt to the pre- sent Mikado, and after the death of her husband bore the title of Sei-kwan-In-no-Miya. Her funeral in 1877 was the last performed in these precincts. Each tomb has a small oratory attached. The fine

Shiba Temples.

71

bronze gate of the enclosure of No. 6, which is the first tomb reached, is- said to be the work of Korean artificers; bnt the design was probably furnished by a Japanese draughtsman. The dragons in low relief on the r. and 1., both inside and out, are especially worthy of attention. Next to it is the tomb of the 12th Shogun, and beyond it again those of the 14th and hip consort. The tomb of this princess is of bronze and marked by the Imperial crest, the sixteen-petalled chrysanthemum.

Quitting the grounds of this Mortuary Temple by a small side door to the r., we turn down 1. to the main road, and enter the grounds of the Monastery of Zojoji by the big gate. To the r. is a small shrine d^Licated to the 'Five Hundred Bakan,' having in front of it a stone with the imprint of Buddha's feet, which are of phenomenal size. On the 1. are the temple offices (jimusho). In front is the main temple of Zojoji, restored outwardly in the plainest style, but spacious within. The large gilt image of Amida enthroned on the altar is from the chisel of the famous Buddhist abbot and artist Eshin. The temple possesses many objects of artistic and historical interest, but they are not generally shown.

The little temple at the back of Zojoji, in the same brilliant style of decoration as the Mortuary Temples, is called Ookoku-den. It contains the Kuro-Honzon or ' Black Image', a statuette of Amida by Eshin, which is noteworthy on account of the veneration in which it was held by leyasu, who used to carry it about with him in his cam- paigns, and ascribe his victories to its influence. Admittance to the Ookohu-den is gained through the priests' house to the 1. The Black Image, which is not shown save on great occasions^ is enclosed in a

handsome gold reliquary. Another reliquary contains smaU marble images of the Sixteen Eakan. Observe the curious plate-shaped ornaments above the pillars in front of the altar, with the Buddhist gods Shaka, Monju, and Fugen, and at- tendant animals in high relief. The bold paintings of hawks around the walls recall leyasu's fondness for hawking. The fine bronze image of Shaka outside dates from 1763.

Such unprotected statues are called in Japanese by the rather irrevent name of * Wet Baints ' (nure-hotoke). The thin sticks inscribed with Sanskrit characters which stand behind it, are termed toha or^ totoba, a corruption of the Sanskrit stupa ('tope'), originally a monument erected over the remains of a saint. The notches in the wood represent the ball, crescent, pyramid, sphere, and cube of the complete xtujia, which are emblematic of Ether, Air, Fire, Water, and Earth. One glance at a $otoba is said to ensure the forgiveness of all sins.

Coming down from Gokoku-den, and leaving the Zojoji enclosure by an opening to the r., we next reach the Mortuary Temple at- tached to the tombs of the consorts of the 2nd, 6th, 11th, and 12th Shoguns. Admittance is by the priests' house to the 1. Though the oratory is plainer than those already described, the altar is by no means less splendid. Gilded gates, gilded panelling, huge gilded pillars, — everything sparkles with gold, while the shrines on the altar are the most magnificent specimens extant of a peculiar kind of lacquer adorned with metal-work. Their order is, from r. to 1.* the consorts of the 12th, 6th. 2nd, and 11th Shoguns, while to the extreme 1. corner is that of the concubine of the 5th. The coffered ceiling, decorated with the phoenix in various colours, is specially fine.

From this temple, we pass into the court of that attached to the tomb of the 2nd Shogun. Entrance through the priests' house to the right. The sanctum is a grand

72

Route 4. — Tokyo.

example of Japanese religious ar- chitecture. Two huge gilded pillars called daijin-hashiraf r. and 1. of the altar, support the lofty vaulted roof, curiously constructed of a network of beams. The upper part of the walls is decorated with large carved medallions of birds in high relief, richly painted and gilt. The shrine is of fine gold lacquer, about 250 years old, and the tables in front deserve inspection. The bronze incense-burner in the form of a lion dates from 1635. leyasu's war-drum rests in a large orna- mental stand. The coffers in the ceilings are filled with fret-work «over lacquer.

A short and pretty walk through the wood at the back leads to the Hakkaku-dd, or Octagonal Hall, con- taining the tomb of the 2nd Sho- gun, which is the largest specimen of gold lacquer in the world and one of the most magnificent. Parts of it are inlaid with enamel and crystals. The scenes on the upper half represent the * Eight Views ' of Siao-Siang in China and of Lake Biwa in Japan, while the lower half is adorned with the lion and peony, the king of beasts and the king of flowers. The base is of stone shaped like a lotus-flower. The shrine contains only an effigy of the Shogun and his funeral tablet, the actual body being beneath the pavement. The interior walls of the hall are of lacquer gilded over. Eight pillars covered with gilt copper plates support the roof.

Outside this building are two curiously carved stones djEbting from 1644. The subject of one is Shaka's Entry into NirvAna, and of the other the Five-and-twenty Bosatsu coming with Amida to welcome the departed soul. The oratory in front of the 'Octagonal Shrine* contains nothing worthy of notice.

DescendingagaintotheMortuary Temple, and passing through its two gates, the visitor turns sharp

to the r. through a third gate, and follows a stone walk lined with cherry-trees to a torii, standing in front of the temple of AnkokU' den. Here, on the 17th of every month, a popular festival is held in honour of leyasu, who is worshipped as a Shinto deity under the name of Toshogu. Constructed when Buddhism was dominant, this tem- ple is architecturally as highly ornamented as the rest, the pre- sent influence of the Shinto cult being indicated only by the paper symbols (gohei) in the oratory, which also contains a large bronze mirror and two gilt amor-inu. The sanctum (admittance through the shamusho or temple office to the r.) stands behind, in a separate en- closure. The coffered ceiling is very good, as are the hawks and birds of paradise on a gold ground in the panels round the interior. Specially excellent is a painting by Kano Hogen at the back of the altar, representing Shaka attended by Monju and Fugen. The shrine is about 4 ft. high, with an elaborate cornice of three rows of brackets ; . and its walls are of splendid gold lacquer with raised designs. In front, on the door- panels, are eight small landscapes, in which a dragon is seen descend- ing through the clouds on either hand. At the sides are boldly designed groups of the pine and bamboo. Inside is a life-like wooden effigy of leyasu, which can be seen only on the 17th day of the month.

The big wooden building in European style, nearly opposite the entrance to Ankoku-den, is called Tayoi-sha, and is used for holding meetings of various kinds.

A visit to Shiba may be termi- nated by walking up Maruyama, the little hiU at the back, which commands a pretty view of the bay. Close to the pagoda, which is not open to the public, stands a monument erected in 1890 to the

Forty-seven Ronins. Akasukci atid Azahu.

78

xnemory of Ino Chukei, the father of Japanese cartography, who flour- ished in the 18th century. Thence one descends to the little Tem'pU of Benten, picturesquely situated on an islet in a lake overgrown -with lotuses. Further back in the "wood stands the Koyo-kwan, or

* Maple Club/ where fine entertain- ments in native style are given.

Shiba is specially lovely in early April, when the cherry-trees are in flower.

About 1 m. from the Shiba tem- ples in the direction of Shinagawa, stands the Buddhist temple of Sengakujiy where the Forty-seven ^Ronins (Shi-ju-shichi Ki) lie buried. (For their dramatic story, see

• Things Japanese,' p. 126. A more detailed account is given in Mit- ford's'Talesof OldJapan'). Thewell (Kvbi-arai ido), where the Eonins washed the head of the foe on whom they; had taken vengeance, still exists by the side of the path lead- ing to the tombs, which are ranged round the sides of a small squafre court. That in the further corner is the grave of Oishi Euranosuke, the leader of the faithful band; and the monument next to his, on the other side of the stone fence, marks the grave of the lord for whose sake he and his comrades sacrificed their lives. The popular reverence for these heroes is attest- ed by the incense_ perpetually kept burning before Oishi's grave, and by the visiting cards left there at New- Year time. Painted statuettes of the * Forty-seven ' are exhibited in a building below.

A little nearer Shinagawa stands Nyoraiji, a Buddhist temple dedi- cated to the 'Five Buddhas of Wisdom,* whose gigantic images, carved in A.D. 1635, are here en- shrined.

On the way back, one may obtain a good view by ascending Kiri- shvmor-yama, a wooden structure 100 ft. high, close to the railway line,

erected in ] 890 as a model of the celebrated mountain of the same name in Kyushu. Or else one may go up Atago-yama, a natural hill a little to the N. of Shiba Park, named after the higher Mount Atago at Kyoto. Atago-yama, like many other such places in Japan, has two flights of steps lead- ing up it, one of which, called * the men's staircase,' is straight and steep, while the other, or * women's staircase,' is circuitous but less fatiguing. A tower has recently been erected on Atago-yama, which visitors should pay a trifling fee to ascend. The view_includes Fuji, the Hakone range, Oyama, Mitake, Mount Tsukuba, the provinces beyond Tokyo Bay with Kano-zan and Nokogiri-yama, and of course Tokyo itself.

2. — Akasasa and Azabu.

AkaAaka and Azabu are the

highest and healthiest parts of Tokyo, but contain little of interest to the tourist. In a part of Akasaka called Aoyama, is situated the palace occupied for many years by the Mikado while the present palace was building, and now by the Empress Dowager and the Crown Prince. It is not open to the public; but the 4Ute of Tokyo society is invited there once yearly in November, to witness what is perhaps the most wonderful show of chrysanthemums in the world. Closely adjoining it, is an immense parade ground, where the great annual review on the Mi- kado's birthday (3r4 November) is held. A little further to the S. is the Aoyama Cemetery, part of which has been set apart for the interment of foreigners.

On the borders of Akasaka and Azabu stands the Shinto temple of Hikawa, now much neglected, but remarkable for the antiquity of its first foundation (7th century). Opposite the entrance is the house

74

Route 4, — Tokyo,

inhabited by Sir Edwin Arnold in 1689-90, while composing his beautiful poem, *The Light of the World/

ZempuJcuji, a temple of the Monto sect, dates from A.D. 1232, and is somewhat striking. The main hall of the temple is ^ ft. square. The pillars supporting the roof are massive and unadorned, save by a few touches of white paint on the capitals, in accordance with the usual practice of the sect. The screen dividing the nave from the chancel, as also the altar itself, are good specimens of florid ornamen- tation in gold and colours. The temple re.ics are exhibited from the 1 st to 6th November. In the court yard stands an enormous Icho tree known as the * Staff Icho.'

Local tradition says that when Shinran SliOfiin, the founder of the Monto sect, was about to depart for Kyoto and bade adieu to RyOkai, the apostle of the sect in Eastern Japan, he stuck his staff upside down into the ground, saying, ' Like this staff shall be the strenjc^h of the faith and the salvation of the people,' upon which the staff immediately began to take root and sprout upwards.

3. — Chief Buildings in Koji- MACHi. The Diet. Sanno. Okubo's Monument. Shokon-

SHA.

Leaving Shimbashi station and turning 1. along the moat, the buildings of the Imperial Diet, if re- constructed as proposed on the site where the original edifice was burnt down in 1891, will be seen beyond the embankment on the other side. The fine brick buildings soon passed r. were completed in 1877 for the College of Engineering, the earliest scientific academy established in Japan, and presided over by British professors. Since the amalgama- tion of this College with the Im- perial University in 1886, the buildings have been used for various purposes, a portion of them being temporarily appropriated to

the meetings of the Lower House of the Diet.

Turning along the moat r., we come to a stretch of fiat ground, which was till recently a swamp called Tame-ike. On the hill to the r. is the mansion of Marquis Nabeshima, formerly Prince of Hizen and now Grand Master of Ceremonies at the Imperial Court. In front is the prettily wooded eminence on which stands the Shin- to Temple of Sanno, officially styled Hie no Jinja. Dating in its present form from 1654, it was adopted by the Shoguns of the Tokugawa dynasty as their tutelary shrine. The situation is pretty, and the place is seen to advantage in spring, when the cherry-trees are in flower; but all the buildings except the main temple are falling into decay. In each of the inner compartments of the large gate stands an image of a monkey orna- mented with a bib, that animal being regarded as the servant of the divinity of Hie, for which reason monkeys also figure on the altar.

This neighbourhood, of which the chief part is called Na^ata-cho, is one of the most fashionable in Tokyo. Here stand the palaces of Princes Kita Shirakawa and Ari- sugawa, and the residences of many high officials and foreign diplomats. Hence in local par- lance, it is sometimes nicknamed Daimnfd Koji, or the * Daimyo Quarter.' Below Prince Kita Shi- rakawa's Palape is the Kioi-cho Eoenchi, a small public garden containing a huge monolith com- memorative of Okubo Toshimichi, one of the founders of the new order of things in Japan, who was assassinated near this spot on the 14th May, 1878, as he was driving from his residence to the Imperial Palace. On the top of the hill of Eudan, a short way beyond the British Legation, stands the modern Shinto temple of Yasukuni, better known as the

Shokonsha, Imperial PaUice.

75

Shokonsha^ or Spirit-Invoking Shrine.

This temple was erected in 1869 for the worship of the spirits of those who had fallen fighting for the Mikado's cause in the revolutionary war of the previous year. Services are also held in honour of thoee who fell in the Saga troubles of 1873, and in the Satsuma rebellion of 1877.

The Shokonsha is huilt in ac- cordance with the severest canons of pure Shinto architecture, and is completely empty except for a mirror, a European drugget, and a dozen cheap wooden chairs for the use of the officials who come to assist at the memorial services which are held from time to time, the principal ones being on the 6th May and 6th November. These occasions are enlivened by horse- races, wrestling, and other amuse- ments which draw a large concourse of spectators. The enormous bronze torii was set up in-December, 1887.

The grounds behind the temple have been tastefully laid out, and look their best in early spring when the plum-trees are in blossom.

The brick building to the r. of the temple is the Yushu-kwan, a Museum of Arms, which is open on Sundays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays, from 8 a.m. till 6 p.m. in summer, and from 9 to 3 in winter. It is well-worth a visit, for the sake of the magnificent speci- mens of old Japanese swords and scabbards which it contains, as well as armour, old Korean bronze can- non, etc. The granite lanterns lining the avenue which runs down the centre of the race-course, were presented by the nobility in 1878.

Leaving the grounds of the Sho- konsha, we come to an ancient stone beacon, which formerly light- ed junks on their way up Tokyo Bay. Opposite to it, stands a monument in the shape of a bayonet, erected in 1880 by the soldiers of the Im- perial Guard, in memory of their comrades who has fallen fighting on the loyalist side in the Satsuma

rebellion. From this point a fine view is obtained of the city in the direction of Ueno. The prominent edifice on the bluff opposite {8v/ru- ga-dai) is the Eussian Cathedral, opened in 1891.

4. — EojiMACHi (Continttbd). In- ner Moat. The Imperial Palace.

Another and more direct way

from Shimbashi to the Shokonsha

at Kudan, is by crossing the first

bridge (Dobashi) over the moat,

passing the Bokumei-kwan, a large

edifice used for social purposes, on

the r., and going straight on as fax

as the site of the Houses of the

Diet, at the further end of the

Hibiya parade ground. Here the

road turns r., with the Russian

Legation, the Foreign Office (Gwair

mus?id), and military barracks on

the 1. Skirting the moat, the

large building seen in front is the

Head-Quarters of the General Staff

Department.

Near here, on the 14th March, 1861, li- Kamon-no Kami, Regent during the in- terval preceding the election of a new Shogun, and a man of rare sagacity and favourable to foreign intercourse, was asBassinated in broad daylight by emis- saries of the Prince of Mito, who wag desirous of seating his own son on the throne. To elucidate this incident, it should be mentioned that there were three branches of the Tokugawa family, viz. Kishfli, Mito, and Owari, from whom the Shoguns were elected by a family council, and that the election had fallen upon a young prince of Kisha, thus baulking Mito's plans.

The moat here, with its green banks and spreading trees and the myriads of wild-fowl fluttering in the water, affords one of the pret- tiest sights in Tokyo. The vast enclosure of the Imperial Palace lies beyond the moat.

The Impeinal Palace. Though the new palace inhabited by His Ma- jesty the Mikado since 1889 is not accessible to the public, the follow- ing description, abridged from the * Japan Mail,' may be of interest : —

76

Route 4, — Tokyo .

Entering through long corridors isolated by massive iron doors^ we find ourselves in the smaller of two reception rooms, and at the commencement of what seems an endless vista of crystal chambers. This effect is due to the fact that the 8^1071, or sliding-doors, are of plate-glass. The workmanship and decoration of these chambers are truly exquisite. It need scarcely be said that the woods employed are of the choicest description, and that the carpen- ters and joiners have done their part with such skill as only Japa- nese artisans seem to possess. Every ceiling is a work of art, being divided by lacquer ribs of a deep brown colour into numerous panels, each of which contains a beautifully executed decorative de- sign, painted, embroidered, or em- bossed. The walls are covered in most cases with rich but chaste brocades, except in the corridors, where a thick, embossed paper of charming tint and pattern shows what skill has been developed in this class of manufacture at the Imperial Printing Bureau. Amid this luxury of well-assorted but warm tints remain the massive square posts — ^beautiful enough in themselves, but scarcely harmo- nising with their environment, and introducing an incongruous element into the buUding. The true type of what may be called Imperial esthetic decoration was essentially marked by refined sim- plicity — white wooden joinery, with pale neutral tints and mellow gilding. The splendour of richly painted ceilings, lacquered lattice- work, and brocaded walls was re- served for Buddhist temples and mausolea. Thus we have the Shinto, or true Imperial style, pre- senting itself in the severely colour- less piJIars, while the resources of religious architecture have been drawn upon for the rest of the decoration. In one part of the

building the severest canons have been strictly, followed : the six Imperial Studios, three below stairs and three above, are precisely such chaste and pure apartments as a scholar would choose for the abode of learning. By way of an example in the other direction, we may t^e the Banqueting Hall, a room of magnificent size (540 sq. yds.) and noble proportions, its immense expanse of ceiling glowing with gold and colours, and its broad walls hung with the costliest silks. The Throne Chamber is scarcely less striking, though of smaller dimensions and more subdued de- coration. Every detail of the work shows infinite painstaking, and is redolent of artistic instinct. The furniture of the Palace was im- ported from Germany. Externally the principal buildings are all in pure Japanese style. The appro- priation for the Palace was $3,000,000; but to this amount must be added considerable sums voluntarily offered by wealthy Japanese, as well as valuable con- . tributions of materials.

The unpretentious brick and plaster structure to be seen from the E. side, rising above the moat in the Palace enclosure, contains the offices of the Imperial House* hold Department (Kunaisho).

Not far from the Palace, in an Easterly direction, is the Insatsu Kyoku or Government Printing Office, a vast and well-organised establishment, to the inspection of which a day may be profitably devoted, as its scope includes much besides mere printing. Here, among other things, is manufac- tured the paper currency of the country.' The Ministries of Fi- nance, of Education, and of the Interior, together with various other Government Offices, are in. the same neighbourhood.

Seido, Kanda Myojvn. University.

11

6. GiNZA. NiHON-BASHI. CURIO

Street. Sbido. Kanda Mtojin. Impebial Univebsitt. Dango zaila. 0-gwannon. botanical Garden. Muryo-in. Kirishitan- ZASA. Denzu-in. Koibhikawa. Arsenal a in) Garden. Gok:oku- Ji. Imperial Cemetery.

The most important thorough- fare in Tokyo, which none should fail to see^ leads from the Shim- bashi terminus to Megane-bashi. The portion of it nearest to the station is called the CHnza, and has many shops in European style. Proceeding along it, the traveller crosses the Kyobashi and Nihon- bashi bridges, from the latter of which all distances in Eastern Japan are calculated. The new General Post-Office stands close by. Parallel to the portion of the main street between these bridges is Naka-^idri, a street highly attrac- tive on account of its second-hand curio shops. Nihon-hashi has also given its name to the surrounding large and busy district, which is filled with shops, market-places, and godowns. The great fish- market is a notable sight in the early hours of the morning.

Megane-Bashi, or ' Spectacles Bridge,' is so called from its circu- lar arches. The portion of the canal to the 1. is popularly known as ' Sendai's "Weeping Excavation ' (NaJd-bori).

Local history says that Tsunamune, DaimyO of Sendai, was in the habit of squandering large sums at the YoshL- wara, and that the 8hogun, in order to turn him from his rakish ways, and also to put snch extravagance oat of his power, imposed on him the task of deep- ening and widening this part of the moat — a work which he Ib said to have per- formed with much lamentation over the drain on his purse.

A little way on is Seido> the gage's Hall or Temple of Con- facius, now used as an Education- al Museum. It is pleasantly

situated on rising grourfd in the midst of a grove of trees, among which the fragrant mokusei is most conspicuous. The buildings, which date from 1691, are fine specimens of the Chinese style of architect- ure. The main hall facing the entrance is supported on black lacquered pillars, the ceiling is also of black lacquer, while the fioor is of ,finely chiselled square blocks of stone. Opposite the door is a wooden image of Confucius, possessing considerable merit as a work of art. The Museum, which contains specimens of school and kindergarten furniture, books, maps, etc., is open daily to visitors. Just above, in the same grounds, stand the two sections of the Normal School (8hihan-0akkd), that in brick being for men^ the other for women.

Behind the Seido, is the Shinto temple of Kanda_ My oj in, dedica- ted to the god Onamuji and to Masakado, a celebrated rebel of the 10th century.

After the final overthrow of Masakado, his ghost used to haunt the neighbour- hood. In order to lay this spectre, apo- theosis was resorted to in the 13th cen- tury. The temple, for which a hoary antiquity is claimed, but which was only established in its present site in 1616, has been frequently burnt down and rebuilt since that time.

The temple, originally decorated with paintings by artists of the Kano school, has now grown some- what dingy, but is still popular with the multitude. The yearly festival, which is celebrated on the 15th September, is well-worth seeing.

Entering the main street of the district of Kanda, one of the chief arteries of the Northern portion of the metropolis, we oome r. to the Imperial Uniyersity (TeikolM Dai- gam), a set of handsome brick buildings standing in the exten- sive grounds of the former Kaga Yashiki, or mansion of the g^eat Daimyo of £aga.

78

Route 4, — Tohjo,

The germ of this institution was the Ban»ho Shirabe-Jo, or * Place for the Ex- amination of Barbarian Writings,* founded by the Tokugawa Government in 1856. Seven years later, this name was changed to that of Kaisei-fOf or * Place for Develop- ing and Completing/ which indicated a change for the better in the views held by the Japanese as to the value of Euro- pean learning. Numerous other changes nave taken place both in the name and scope of the institution, which since 1881 has been placed on a thoroughly modem footing, and now includes CoUeges of Law, Medicine, Engineering, Literature, Science, and Agriculture, where lectures are delivered by a lar^ staff of professors of various nationalities and in various languages. The students number over 1,900. The courses that attract most students are those of Law and Medicine. A large hospital connected with the Uni- versity stan^ in the same grounds. Other institutions under the authority of the President of the University are the Botanical Gkirdens in the district of Koi- shikawa, the TOkyo Observatory at ligura in Tokyo, and the Marine Biological Observatoiy at Misaki in the province of Sagami,

_ Further on in the direction of Oji are the florists' gardens of Dango-zaka, whither the towns- folk flock in thousands to see the chrysanthemum shows in Novem- ber. The flowers are trained over trellis-work to represent historical and mythological scenes, ships, dragons, and other curious designs. In 1890, there were flowery repre- sentations of the chief members of the first Imperial Diet which had just been elected.

The O'Qwannon, or * Great Kwannon,' may be worth a pass- ing visit. The gilt image, which is 16 ft. high, was an offering made in the 17th century by a merchant of Yedo, and represents the goddess bending slightly forward, and holding in her hand the lotus, the emblem of purity. Round the walls of the shrine containing the image, are ranged in tiers the Sen-tax Kwannon, or images of the ' Thou- sand Incarnations of Ewannon.'

The KaUhikawa, Botanical Garden {Shohw-hutsv^en) is open to the public. Duplicate specimens of the plants are for sale at the office.

The small temple of Mui^o-in, in

the same district, is connected with, the history of the early Catholic missionaries to Japan, some of whom lie buried in the cemetery. Hence the name of Kirishitan- zaka, or * Christian Hill,' by which the locality is popularly known. The grave of the earliest of these missionaries. Father Giuseppe Chiara, who died in 1685, may be distinguished by a priest's hat carved in stone. Readers desirous of further details are referred to the writings of Mr. Ernest Satow and Professor J. M. Dixon, in Vol. VI, Part I, and Vol. XVI, Part III, of the 'Transactions of the Asiatic Society of Japan.'

The temple of Dcn»i*-'in, close by, has a certain historic in^rest as the resting-place of leyasu's mother. The main altar, sur- mounted by a large gilt image of Shaka, is handsomely ornamented.

The Koishikawa Arsenal (Hohei Kosho) occupies the site of the former mansion of the Prince of Mito. Here are manufactured the celebrated Murata rifles. An order from the military authorities is necessary to gain admittance. An order is also necessary for the Garden (Korakuen), which stiU re- mains intact, and is the finest specimen of the Japanese land- scape gardener's art to be seen in the capital. Its design was to reproduce in miniature many of the scenes whose names are fami- liar to the literati of Japan. Prince Mitsukuni, generally known as Mito Komon, laid out the grounds as a place in which to enjoy a calm old age after a life of labour. If the visitor has first inspected the Arsenal, he wUl then be conducted to a summer-house in the Garden, with an extensive grass-plot attached, and overlook- ing a lake copied from a noted one in China called Sei-ko. A small wooded hill rises beyond, which we ascend, and on which stands a miniature replica of the famous

Koishikawa, Umo,

79

temple of Kiyomizu at Kyoto, en- riched with carvings, but worn by time. Descending, we are . im- mersed for a minute in the depths of a wood before reaching an old bridge with a rivulet running far below. Crossing the bridge and following up a zigzag path, we come to the shrine of H^u-i and Shiku-sei, the loyal brothers of Chinese lore, who, after the over- throw of their lord and master, refused to eat the corn produced under the conqueror's sway, and, secluding themselves on Mount Shuyo, Uved on ferns till, being told that ferns grew also on their enemy's lands, they abstained even from that poor food, and so died of starvation. An arched stone bridge and another shrine, shaped octagonally in allusion to the Eight Diagrams of the Chinese system of divination, are next passed. From here, a tunnel-Hke opening leads through a thicket of creepers and other Ixees to a lake several acres in extent and full of lotus-floweis. The water, which comes from the Tamagawa aque- duct, is made to form a pretty cas- cade before falling into the lake. An island in the centre is con- nected with the mainland by a bridge. Everywhere there are magnificent trees — cherry-trees for tlie spring, maples for the autumn, plum-trees for the winter, making a change of scene at each season. Near the exit, is a hill with a path paved in such manner as to imitate the road over the Hakone Pass.

On the extreme N. W. outskirt of the city stands the Buddhist temple of Ookohuji, now used as the head-quarters of the Shingon sect, who have a seminary there for young priests. With its extensive grounda, its silent belfry, and the perfect stillness of its surround- ings, it recalls the memory of days now irretrievably past, when Bud-

dhism was a mighty power in the land. The azaleas here are noted for their beauty. The chief trea- sure of the temple is a gigantic kakemono of Buddha's Entry into Nirvana by Kano Yasunobu, which is shown only during the month of April.

Adjoining Gokokuji is the new Cemetery of the Imperial family, selected since the removal of the Court to Tokyo. It is not open to the public. The interment here in 1891 of Prince Sanjo, one of the leaders of the Kestoration and long Prime Minister, was an im- posing pageant.

6. — Ueno Park, Temples, and Museum. Asakusa. Higashi HoNGWANJi. Temple or Kwan- KON. Mukojima. Hobikibi.

Ueno Park is the most popular resort in the metropolis, and has been the site of three National Industrial Exhibitions. Here, in April, all Tokyo assembles to ad- mire the wonderful mass of cherry- blossom for which it is famous. No traveller should miss this op- portunity of witnessing a scene charming alike for natiural beauty and picturesque Eastern life.

Originally the Yedo residence of the Todo family, Ueno was taken over by the Shdgun lemitsu in the year 1625 for the purpose of erecting here in the North-Eastem, and therefore accord- ing to a prevalent superstition the most imlucky, portion of the new capital, a series of Buddhist temples that should surpass all others in splendour. The original main temple then founded oc- cupied the site of the present MuBeum, and was burnt down in 1808 on the occasion of a bloody battle fought be- tween the partisans of the Mik£io and those of the Shogun. The outer gate still exists, showing the marks of bullets. This temple was counted among the triumphs of Japanese architecture. Here always resided as high-priest a son of the reign- ing Mikado, retained in gilded slavery for political reasons, as it was convenient for the Shdguns to have in their power a prince who could at once be decorated with the Imperial title, should the Court of Kydto at any time prove unfavourabl«

80

Route 4, — Tokyo.

to their policy, "the last high-priest of Ueno was actually utilised in this man- ner by the Shogun's partisans, and car- ried off by them to Aizu when they raised the standjard of rebeUion. On their defeat, he was pardoned by the present legiti- mate sovereign, was sent to Germany to study, and is now known by the title of Prince Kita Shirakawa,

Leaving Ms jinrikisha at tlie bottom of the hill, the traveller ascends r. a short flight of steps, leading to a plateau planted with cherry-trees and commanding a good view of the city, especially towards Asakusa, including the twelve-storied tower which is seen rising beyond the Ueno railway station, the. circular Panorama building, and the high roof of the great Hongwanji temple. The stone monument on this plateau is de- dicated to the soldiers who fell fighting for the Shogun's cause in the battle of Ueno. Close by to the 1., is a dingy Buddhist temple dedi- cated to the Thousand-Handed Kwannon.

Descending again to the main road, we reach the celebrated avenue of cherry-trees, a uniquely beautiful sight during the season of blossom. The air seems to be filled with pink clouds. To the 1., is a shallow piece of water called 8hinohazyrno-ike, and celebrated for its lotus flowers in August. On a little peninsula jutting out into the lake, are a number of tea-houses and a shrine dedicated to the goddess Benten. This formerly romantic spot has of late years fallen a viction to vandalism, the shores of the lake having been turned into a race-course. A little further up, is a branch of the * Sei- yoken Hotel, which commands a good view of the lake. The eicten- sive buildings seen in the distance, on a height to the r., are some of the Colleges of the Imperial Uni- versity. Close to the hotel is a bronze image of Buddha, 21^ ft. high, known as the Daibutsu. This inferior specimen of the bronze

sculptor's art dates from about the year 1660. Following along the main road for a few yards, we come 1. to a bullet-riddled gate, pre- served as a relic of the battle of Ueno. An immense stone lantern just inside the gate is one of the three largest in Japan, the work of Sakuma Daizenosuke who flou- rished early in the I7th century. Beyond it again, has stood since 1890 a switch-back railway, whose vulgar clatter strikes a strangely discordant note in the harmony produced by the stately crypto- merias, the ancienit pagoda, and the glorious gold gate at the end of the long avenue of stone lanterns, presented in 1651 by various Daimyos as a tribute to the memory of the Shogun leyasn. To this Shogun, under his posthu- mous name of Toshogu or Gongen Sama, the shrine within the gate is dedicated. Th^ gate itself, re- stored in 1890, is a dream of beauty. Carvings of dragons adorn it on either side. Above are geometrical figures, birds, foliage, and everywhere the Tokugawa crest of three Asarum leaves. It is intended to restore in the same style the temple whose gold has been worn away in many places. The details resemble those of the Mortuary Shrines at Shiba. The temple contains some fine speci- mens of lacquer. Bound the walls hang pictures of the San-jHrroJc-Jca^ sen, below which are screens with conventional lions.

The 8an-jU-roh-ka-»en, or Thirty-six Po- etical Geniuses, flourished during the Sth, 9th, and 10th centuries. The grouping of their names in a galaxy is attributed to a court noble of the 11th century named Kinto Dainagon. Their portraits were first painted by Fujiwara-no-Nobuzane about A.D 1200. A complete list of their names will be found m Dr. Wm. An- derson's interesting ' Catalogue of Japa- nese and Chinese Paintings.

Returning to the main road the way we came, and passing through the now closed buildings

Ueno Museum.

81

of the last National Industrial Szhibition, we reach the

Ueno Miisenm (Hahibutsu-Jcvjan). This institution, which is open every day except Monday, from 8 to 5 in summer, and from 9 to 4 in winter, is well-worth a visit. The contents are arranged as follows : —

Ground Floor. L. of Entrance- Industrial Department : — Boom 1, porcelain; Boom 2, cloisonn6, bronze, lacquer, metal-work, pot- tery, wood-work ; Boom 3, carpets, lace, and woven stuffs j Boom 4, tools, instruments, and miscel- lajieous articles.

Ground Floor. B. of Entrance. Natural History Department. The front rooms contain the Zoolo- gical Section ; the back rooms, the Botanical and Agricultural Sec- tions.

An annexe at the back of the main building contains the Miner- alogical Section, immediately be- hind which a pretty garden has been laid out.

Upper Floor. Landing; ancient Imperial State bullock cart and palanquins, model of the Tenchi Maru, or * Ship of Heaven and Earth,' which was the State barge used by the Shoguns.

Upper Floor. Front rooms r. (above Industrial Department), Historical or Archaeological De- partment. The contents of this Department being of special in- terest, they are here indicated in greater detail, as follows : —

Boom 1.

First two ccues r. and 1. Stone arrow-heads, spear-heads, and pot- tery of the prehistoric period ; maga-tama and kudortama in jasper, agate, etc.

The maga-tama, or 'curved jewels,' which somewhat resemble a tadpole in shape, were anciently strung together and used as necklaces and ornaments for the waist both by men and women, as were also the kudu'tama or ' tube - shaped jewels.* Their use survives in the Loo- cboo Islands.

Second cases r. and 1. Prehisto- ric stone celts and other objects; proto-hietoric copper mirrorl and horse-trappings.

Third cases. Proto-historic cop- per beUs, iron swords, armour, horse-trappings, shoes, and cooking utensils.

Fourth cases. Iron swords, spear- heads, horse-trappings, pottery anciently used for the presentation of offerings to the Shinto gods. Some pieces from the provinces on the N.E. shore of the Inland Sea are remarkably ornamented with human figures in high relief.

Fifth cases. Early pottery con- sisting of sacrificial cups, etc.

Sixth coMs. Earthenware images of men and horses used in proto- historic times for interment in the graves of illustrious personages, after the custom of burying their chief retainers alive with them had been discontinued ; figures of birds — apparently geese — which were used as a fence round the tumulus of the Emperor Ojin in the province of Kawachi; frag- ments of earthenware posts used for a similar purpose.

Boom 2.

Firsi ca^s r. and 1. Antiquities from the Buddhist temple of Ho- ryuji in Yamato, including iron and wooden begging-bowls, nickel and bronze flower-vases and im- plements for food, golden tokko, and specimens of the miniature pago- das of which, in A.D. 764, the reigning Mikado caused a million to be made for distribution to all the Buddhist temples throughout the land. There are also manu- scripts, which are among the earli- est specimens of Japanese calli- graphy. They are aU in the Chinese language.

Second cases. Antiquities from Horyuji, including incense-burners with long handles, boxes, shoes, and scarves, whose patterns show the stiff Chinese formality of the

82

Baute 4* — Tokyo,

art-industry of early Japan, miisical instruments, ecclesiastical 'proper- ties/ such. 9^ exorcising-wands, temple seals^ etc., and miscella- neous articles of common use.

Third cases. Antiquities from Todaiji at Nara, including miscel- laneous articles, Buddhist reliqua- ries— one of these holds specimens of the little bead-like relics of a Buddha which are known as shari — musical instruments, tuning- forks, and standard measures.

Fourth cases. Christian relics :

Many of these date from tlie embassy to Rome of Hashikura Rokuemon, who was sent thither by Date Masamune, Prince of Sendai, in 1614, with a train of followers, and returned to Japan in 1620, The oflft- cial Japanese account of this curious episode is that the embassy went at the ShO^n's desire, in order to investigate the political strength and resources of Europe, The version usually accepted by European writers is that the eicpedition really was what it avowed itself to be — an act of submission to the religious supremacy of the Pope, The envoy was vrell-received at the Roman Court, and was presented with the freedom of the city of Rome, besides being loaded with presents. The relics remained in the possession of the Date family at Sendai until a few years ago.

Among the objects in these cases, are an oil-painting of Hashikura in prayer before a crucifix, an illuminated Latin document con- ferring on him the freedom of the city of Rome, holy pictures, rosaries, crucifixes, a small Japanese book of Catholic devotion in hiragana characters, photographs of Date Masamune's letters to the Pope in Japanese and Latin, a portrait of Hashikura in his Italian costume, etc. To a set of circumstances very different in their nature, though not far removed in time, belong the fumi-ita, or "trampling boards," — oblong blocks of metsS with figures in high relief of Christ before Pilate, the Descent from the Cross, the Madonna and Child, etc., on which persons suspected of the crime of Christianity were obliged to trample during times of persecution, in order to testify

their abjuration of the * depraved sect,' as it was called. The Dutch traders at Nagasaki are suspected of having lent themselves to this infamous practice for the sake of monetary gain.

Fifth cases. Implements used in the Shinto religious cult.

Sixth ca^s. Coins illustrating the currency of Japan from A.D. 708 onwards ; standard weights and measures. The very large oblong gold coins were called dhan, the smaller ones kohan.

The last room of this suite con- tains a model of the Shinto shrines temporarily erected in the Fukiage Garden at Tokyo for the corona- tion of the present Emperor, and burnt down after the ceremony. A small room 1. contains Imperial robes and the ancient Imperial throne, with exquisitely delicate silk hangings, which served to shroud majesty from the gaze of ordinary mortals.

The back rooms on this side con- tain : — Room 1, court robes and ancient textile fabrics ; Room 2, armour and weapons ; Room 3, musical instruments, tea utensils, masks, and theatrical costumes.

Upper Floor, 1. (above Natural History Department). Front Rooms, Fine Art Department. Central Room and Room 1, Kake- monos and Mahimonos; Room 2, masks and images, chiefly bronze ; Room 8, manuscripts and illustrat- ed scrolls. The back rooms com- prise the Art Industry Depart- ment,— ^lacquer, porcelain, bronze, etc.

There is a large wing to the r. of the entrance, but it is not now open to the public.

On quitting the Museum, an avenue r. leads to the Art. School {Bijutsu Qukko), not accessible without a special introduction. In the same grounds, are a Public Library and Reading Room (Tosho' kwan)t and a learned Academy

Tombs of the Shoguns.

88

called the Oahishi Kai-in. Behind these, are the Zoological Gardens {Dobutsu-en).

Before reaching the Tosho-kwan, an avenue turns ofif r. to the

Tombs of the Sh6^nns(OoBeiya), abutting on the second and finer of the two Mortuary Temples (^t no Oo Reiya). The main gate is always kept closed, but a side en- trance 1. leads to the priest* s house. The resident custodian will act as guide for a small fee.

The six Shdgons buried at TJeno belonged to the Tokugawa family, being the 4th, 5th, 8th, 10th, 11th, and 18th of their line. It is still at the private expense of the family that these shrines are kept up. In general style, they closely resemble those at Shiba, described on p. 68, and are among the priceless legacies of the art of Old Japan. Like the Shiba shrines, too, they have suffered at the hands of thieves since the Revolution of 1868.

This glorious building, a sym- phony in gold and blended colours, has a wooden colonnade in front, the red walls of which are divided into compartments, each contain- ing a medallion in the centre, filled with painted open-work carvings of birds and flowers, with ara- besques derived from the chrysan- themum above and a carved wave- design below. In the centre of this colonnade is a gate decorated with a painting of an angel. From here, an open colonnade leads up to the steps of the main building. The porch has brackets carved with conventional chrysanthe- mums. Its square columns are adorned with plum-blossoms in red and gold. Under the beams, are red and gold lions' heads as brackets. The doors of the oratory are carved in diapers, and gilded all over. Note the tastefuUy painted diapers on the architrave. The ceiling is massive and loaded with metal fastenings. In the coffers are dragons in gold on a blue ground. The interior walls are gilded, having in some places conventional paintings of lions, in

others movable shutters. This apai-tment is 16 yds. wide by 7 yds. in depth. The corridor which succeeds it is 4 yds. wide by 8 yds. in depth, and leads to the black lacquered steps of the inner sanctum. Its ceiling is decorated with the phoenix on a green and gold ground. Handsome gilt doors covered with carved arabesques close the entrance to the sanctum, which measures 7 yds. in depth by 11 yds. in width. The ceiling is decorated with fine gilt lattice- work in the coffers. The small shrines, containing the memorial tablets of the illustrious dead, are gorgeous specimens of gold lacquer. Beginning at the r., these shrines are respectively those of the 5th, 8th, and 13th Shoguns, and of Ko- kyo-In, son of the 10th Shogun. B. and 1. are two shrines contain- ing tablets of eight mothers of Shoguns. Curiously enough, all were concubines, not legitimate consorts. The actual graves are in the grounds behind. The finest, a bronze one, is that of the 5th Shogun. Its bronze gate has magnificent panels with the phoenix and unicorn in bas-relief, — Korean castings from Japanese designs about 140 years old.

The First Mortuary Temple (Ichi no Go Reiya) is close to the Second. On leaving the Second, turn to thd 1. to reach the priests' house, where application for admission must be made. Here are buried the 4th, 10th, and 11th Shoguns, together with several princesses. The monument of the 4th is in bronze, the others in simple stone. Over the grave of the 11th Shogun hangs a weeping cherry-tree, placed there to commemorate the love of flowers which distinguished that amiable prince, whose reign (A.D. 1787-1838) was the culminating point of the splendour of Old Japan.

Returning towards the entrance of the park, we reach the Buddhist temple popularly known as RyQ

84

Baute 4. — Tokyo.

Vaithif properly Jigen-Do, dedicated Vt the two great Abbots, Jie Dai- ! •hi and Jigen Daishi, the former of whom flotiriBhed in the 9th eentutj, the latter in the I6th and 17th, On this side of the park are some buildings often used of late years for art exhibitions of Tarious kinds.

We now leave Ueno, and passing : along a busy thoroughfare, reach the district of Asakusa. The first ' object of interest here is the , spaeions temple of Higashi Hon- i inranji, popularly called Monzehi, \ tlie chief religious edifice in Tokyo | of the Monto sect of Buddhists. Though yery plain, as is usual with the buildings of this sect, the Monzeki is worth visiting on ac- count of its noble proportions. It was founded in 1657. The iron net-work thrown over the temple is intended to prevent sparks from falling on the wood-work, when there is a conflagration in the neighbourhood. Ilie huge porch is adorned with finely carved wooden brackets, the designs being chrysanthemum flowers and leaves, and peony flowers and leaves. On the transverse beams are some curiously involved dragons. These are the best specimens of this sort of work to be seen in Tokyo, and should ■ not be passed over. Observe too the manner, peculiar to the build- ings of this sect, in which the beams are picked out with white. The area of the matted floor of the nave (g^m) is 140 mats, and round the front and sides runs a wooden aisle 12 ft. wide. Over the screen which separates the chancel and its side-chapels from the nave, are massive gilt open-work carvings representing angels and phoenixes ; the largest are 12 ft. in length by 4 ft. in height. The rest of the building is unadorned. Hanging against the gilt background of the temple wall, on either side of the altar, are to be seen several kake-

monos of Buddhist saints, indistin- guishable in the ' dim religious light;' also r. the poethumoiiB tablet of leyasn, which is exposed for veneration on the 17th of the month. ThehoHMon, Amida^isablack image, always exposed to Tiew, and standing in a very handsome shrine of black and gold lacquer. From the r. side of the main hall, & bridge leads down to the Jiki-do, or preaching halL At the main temple, sermons are only preached for one week in the year, viz. from the 21st to 28th November, when the gorgeous services {hd-cn-ko) held in honour of the founder of the sect are well-worth witnessing. On this occasion, the men all go to the temple in the style of dress known as kator^inu, and the women with a head-dress called tsuno-kakushi (Ut. *hom-hider') — both relics of the past. The 'hom-hider' would seem to have been so named in allusion to a Buddhist text which says : ' A*woman's exterior is thai of a saint, but her heart is that of i demon.'-^Lesser services are helc at the time of the vernal an< autumnal equinoxes. Quaint test! mony is borne to the popularity o this temple with the lower middl class by the ' notices posted up o: some of the great columns in th main hall. Not only is thei one to prohibit smoking, but or warning people not to come liei for their afternoon nap (Hiiru-i muyo)! On quitting the Monzel notice its nobly massive roof, w^i1 lions rampant at the corners.

About 7 cho from the Monzel stands the great Buddhist temp of Sensdji, popularly called Asakn Kwannon, because dedicated Kwannon, the goddess of Mercy.

A fabulous antiquity is claizned for 1 founding in this locality of a slir sacred to Kwannon, the tntdition be: that the image which is now -worsbip] there, was fished up on the neigliborLr strand during the reign of th.e Bmpx Suiko (A.D. 693—628) by a noble of name of Hashi-no-Nakatomo, who ]

Asahisa Temple,

86

been exiled to this then desolate portion of tbe coast, and with two attendants gained his livelihood by casting his nets at the mouth of the Asaknsa river. In his fishing hut the first altar is said to have heen raised ; and the crest of three' nets, which is to be seen marking certain portions of the buildings, was devised in memory of the event. The miraculous image is never shown, but is commonly believed to be but 1| inch in height; and th.e disproportion between the small- ness of the image and the vastness of the temple has passed into a popular saying . Instead of the actual sacred image, there is exbibited on the 13th December of every year another laiger one which stands in front of the high "altar. In the year 1180, Yoritomo endowed the temple with ninety acres of arable land.^ But when leyasu made Tedo his capital, he found the temple gone to ruin, and the priests living in disorder and immorality. The

firesent buildings date from the time of emitsu, after the destruction by fire of the former edifice. They are in the possession of the Tendaisect of Buddhists

On no account should a visit to this popular temple and the grounds (Kdenchi) surrounding it be omitted ; for it is the great holi- day resort of the middle and lower classes, and nothing is more striking than the juxtaposition of piety and pleasure, of gorgeous altars and grotesque ex-votos, of pretty cos- tumes and dingy idols, the clatter of the clogs, cocks and hens and pis^eons strutting about among the worshippers, children playing, soldiers smoking, believers chaffer- ing with dealers of charms, ancient art, modern advertisements — in fine, a spectacle than which surely nothing more motley was ever witnessed within a religious edifice. The most crowded time is Sunday afternoon, and the 17th and 18th of each months days sacred to Kwannon.

The mfdn gate of the temple no longer exists. One walks up through a lane of red brick shops, where toys, photographs, and gew- gaws of all kinds are spread out to tempt the multitude. The sam- mon, or two-storied gate in front of the temple, is a huge structure of red wood, with images of the Ni-o on either side. The immense

sandals hung up in front of the cages containing these images, are placed there by persons desirous of becoming good walkers. To the 1., immediately , before passing through the big gate, is a popular shrine of Fudo, just outside of which is a shrine of Jiz5, distin- guishable by a prayer-wheel (go- sho-guruma) roughly resembling a pillar post-box.

The prayer-wheel is, in Japan, found only in connection with the mystic doc- trine of the Tendai and Shingon sects, and its use differs slightly from that to which it is put in Thibet. No prayers are written on it ; but the worshipper, attri- buting to ingwa (the Sanskrit Jcarma, that IS, * the effects in this life of the actions in a former state of existence') any sin of which he wishes to be rid, or any desire that occurs to him, turns the wheel with a simple request to Jizo to let this ingtoa duly run its course — the course of ingtoa resembling the perpetual revolu- tions of a wheel.

On the opposite or r. side of the lane, on a mound, is the large Asa- kusa bell whose sonorous notes are heard all over the Northern part of the city.

The great hall of the temple of Kwannon is 102 ft. square, and is en- tirely surrounded by a wide gallery. The large picture hanging above the entrance to the r. represents life (under the figure of two sleeping men and a sleepingtiger) as nothing more than a dream, the only living reality in which is the power of religion (typified by a Buddhist priest). The eye is struck, on enter- ing, by the immense number of lanterns and pictures which cover the ceiling and walls. These are all offerings presented by believers. Some of the pictures are by good modern artists. One over the shrine to the r. represents a perfor- mance of the "No, or mediseval lyric drama, in which the red-haired sea-demon called Shojo plays the chief part. Opposite is a curious painted carving in relief, represent- ing the ' Three Heroes of Shoku ' (a Chinese state established in the 2nd century chiefly by their

S6

RoiUe d. — Tokyo,

efforts). The hero on the r., called Kwan-u, is now worshipped in China as the God of War. To the 1. of this is one showing On-Umaya- no-Kisanda fixing his bow-string to shoot the foea of his master Yoshitsune, the latter (to the r.) being awakened by his mistress^ the renowned and lovely Shizuka Gozen. The ceiling is painted with representations of angels, the work of Kano Doshun. The seated image to the r., with a pink bib round its neck, and now almost rubbed away with age, was a cele- brated work of Jikaku Daishi, and represents Binzuru, the helper of the sick. At any time of the day believers may be observed rub- bing it (see p. 28). The stalls in front of the main shrine are for the sale of pictures of the goddess Kwannon, which are used as charms against sickness, to help women in child-birth, etc., of tickets to say whether a child about to be born will be a boy or a girl, and so forth.

The chancel is, as usual, separated from the nave by a wire screen, and is not accessible to the public. An offering tendered to one of the priests in charge will, however, generally procure admission. On the high altar, gorgeous with lamps, flowers, gold, damask, and sacred vessels, and guarded by figures of the Shi Tenno, of Bonten, and of Taishaku, the latter said to be the work of Gyogi Bosatsu, stands the shrine which contains the sacred image of Kwannon. On either side are ranged images, some 2 or 3 ft. high, of Kwannon in her ' Three-and-Thirty Terrestrial Embodiments,' each set in a hand- some shrine standing out against the gold ground of the wall. R. and 1. of the altar, hang a pair of votive offerings — golden horses in high relief on a lacquer ground — ^presented by the Shogun lemitsu. On the ceiling is a dragon, the work of Kano Eishin. The side

altar to the r. is dedicated to Fudo. Observe the numerous vessels used in the ceremony of the goma .prayers, which are frequently of- fered up here for the recovery of the sick. The twelve small images are the Ju-ni Ddji, or attendants of Kwannon. The altar to the 1. is dedicated to Aizen Myo-6, whose red image with three eyes and six arms is contained in a gaudy shrine. The two-storied miniature pagoda is simply an offering, as are also the thousand small images of Kwannon in a case to the 1.. and the large Euro- pean mirror, in front of which is a life-like image of the abbot Zen- nin Shonin. At the back of the main altar is another called * XJrE Kwan-non,* (ura meaning * back *) which should be visited for the sake of the modern wall-picture on lacquer with a background of gold leaf, by artists o the Kano school. Above are crowd of supernatural being) headed by a converted dragon i the form of a beautiful woma] who offers a large jewel to Sliak Two of the latter's dSsciples {Baka'i are at his r. foot, Monju at his foot, and Fugen below on the The figure of Fugen has been i stored within the last thirty yea Those on the r. and 1. walls are i tended for the Twenty-eight Ma: festations of Kwannon.

In the grounds are several bui ings of interest, and a number ichd trees whose golden foliage autumn is a sight in itself. !Behi the great temple to the 1., is a snn shrine full of ex-votos inscril with the character ^, ' eye,* j. sented by persons afflicted viritli disease. Beside it is a large bro image of Buddha. The small 1: agonal building immediately beb the great temple, is the Daih6-cL Jizo-do, containing a crowd, of li stone images seated in tiers ro a large one of Jizo. This divii being the special protector of cl

Asakusa. Mukojima,

87

ren, parents bring the images of tlieir dead little ones to his shrine. Seyond the Jiz6-d6, is the Nembwtsu- da with a pretty altar. Turning r., Tve come to the 8anja — a Shinto sHrine^ dedicated to the Three Fishermen of the local legend, and Having panels decorated with my- tliological monsters in gaudy colours. Note the bronze and stone lions in front. Passing the stage on which the Z^agrwra dances are per- formed, we reach the Rinzo, or * Re- volving Library,' in a square building with carved lioiis on the eaves.

The Rinzo is a receptacle lai^ enough to contain a complete edition of the Bud- dhist Scriptures, but turning so easily on a pivot as to be readily made to revolve by one vigorous push. A ticket over the door explains the use of this peculiar book case : ' Owing to the voluminousness of tbe Buddhist Scriptures— 6,771 volumes — it is impossible for any single individual to read them through. But a degree of merit equal to that accruing to him who should have perused the entire canon, will be obtained by those who will cause this library to revolve three times on its axis ; and moreover long life, prosperity, and the avoidance of all misfortunes shall be their reward.' The invention of * Revolving Libraries' is attributed to a Chinese priest called Pu Daishi, who lived in the 6th century. That at Asakusa is of red lacquer on a black lacquer base and stone lotus-shaped pedestal. 'I'he ceiling of the small building containing it has repre- sentations of clouds and angels. The images in front, on entering, represent Fu Daishi with his sons. Those trampling on demons are the Shi Tenno, and the life-size gilt figure is Shaka. The books, which were brought from China early in the 13th century, are aired every year at the autumn equinox, but are not shown at other times. The custodian, in return for a small gratuity, will allow visitors to make the library revolve.

The Pagoda close by is no longer op^n to visitors.

Adjacent to the temple enclosure we find the Asakusa Koenchi, or public grounds, where stands the lofty tower, properly called Rywin-kaka, and more popularly, Jur-ni-kai. This building, erected in 1890, has twelve storeys, as its popular name implies, is 820 ft. in height, 50 ft. in internal dia-

meter at the base, is ascended as far as the eighth story in an elevator worked by electricity, and commands a more extensive view than any other point in the city.

The grounds of Asakusa are the quaintest and liveliest place in Tokyo. Here are raree-shows, penny gaffs, performing monkeys, cheap photographers, street artists, jugglers, wrestlers, life-sized figures in clay, vendors of toys and lolly- pops of every sort, and, circulating amidst all these cheap attractions, a seething crowd of busy holiday- makers.

About 1 m. to the North of Asa- kusa is* the celebrated Yoshitoara, the abode of frail beauties.

On the other side of Azuma-bashi, the finest bridge in Tokyo, is the garden of the former Satake Tashi- ki, one of the best specimens of the Japanese style of gardening. It contains an excellent tea-house. A little further on is

Mukojima, celebrated for its avenue of cherry-trees, which stretches for more than a mile along the 1. bank of the Sumi- da-gawa. When the blossoms are out in April, Mukojima is densely crowded with holiday- makers from mom till dusk, and the tea-houses on the banks and the boats on the river re-echo with music and merriment. This sight, which lasts for about a week, should on no account be missed. The little temple at the end of the avenue was raised in remembrance of a touching story of the 10th century, which forms the subject of a famous lyric drama.

Umewaka, the child of a noble family, was carried off from Kyoto by a slave- merchant, and perished in this distant spot, where his body was found by a good priest who gave it burial. The next year, his mother, who had roamed over the country in search of her boy, came to the place, where, under a willow-tree, the villagers were weeping over a lowly grave. On asking the name of the dead, she discovered that it was none other than

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EoiUe 4, — Tokyo,

her own son, who during^ the night ap> peared in ghostly form, and held converse with her ; but wnen day dawned, nothing remained bat the waving branches of the willow, and instead of nis voice only the sighing of the breeze. A commemorative service is still held on the 16th March ; and if it rains on that day, the people say the rain-drops are Umewaka's tears.

Another favourite flower resort lying some little way beyond Makojima, is Horikiri, famed for its irises which bloom in June. The excursion is a pleasant one at that time of the year.

7. — Eko-in. The Five Hundred

Kakan. Eambido. Distbict of

Ptjkaoawa. Susakt. ,

Crossing Bydgoku-bashi, one of the largest bridges in the metro- polis spanning the Sumida-gawa, we reach the noted Buddhist tem- ple of Eko-in.

In the spring of 1857, on the occasion of a terrible conflagration which lasted for two detys and nights, 107,046 persons are said to have perished in the flames. The Government undertook the care of their interment, and orders were given to Dan- saemon, the chief of the pariahs,* to convey the bodies to Ushijima, as this part of Yedo was then called, and dig for them a common pit. Priests from all the different Buddhist sects came to-

f ether to recite for the space of seven ays a thousand scrolls of the sacred books for the benefit of the souls of the departed. The grave was called Muenzuka, or ' the Mound of Destitution,' and the temple which was built near it is, therefore, also popularly entitled Muenji. Ek5-in being, on account of its peculiar origin, without the usual means of support derived from the gifts of the relatives of the dead, was formerly used as the pla^e whither SEbcred images were brought from other provinces to be worshipped for a time by the people of Yedo, and as a scene of public perfor- mances. The latter custom still survives in the wrestling-matches and other shows, which draw great crowds here every spring and winter.

Eko-in might well be taken as a

* In Japanese, Eta. Their occupations were to slaughter animals, tan leather, assist at executions, &o. The class as such is now abolished ; but remnants of its peculiar costume may still occasionaUy be seen in the persons of young girls with broad hats, who go about the streets play- ing and singing.

text by those who denounce ' heathen * temples. Dirty, gaudy, full of semi-defaced imaees, the walls plastered with advertise^ ments, the altar guarded by two- hideous red monsters, childrezi scampering in and out, wrestlers stamping, crowds shouting— the place lacks even the semblaiice of sanctity. In a small arched en« closure behind the temple, is the grave of the celebrated highway- man Nezumi Kozo, where incense is always kept burning. The oeme* tery at the back contains monu. ments to those who perished in the great fire of 1657, and in the great earthquake of 1855.

In Honjo, Midori-cho, about X mile further on, is a temple con- taining painted images, almost life- size, of the Five Hundred Bakan, (Oo-hydku JSoJban), seated on shelves reaching from the bare earth of the floor to the rafters of the roof. They are from the chisel of Shoun, an artist of the 17th century. On some of them are pasted slips of paper with their names. The much larger image in the centre represents Shaka, with Anan on his r. hand and Kasho on his 1. The white image in front of Shaka is Kwannon. The temple also contains a hundred small images of Kwannon. The present edifice dates only from 1889, when the images were removed from an older building in the district of Fukagawa, which had fallen into decay.

Not far off stands the Shinto Temple of Temmangu, commonly known as Kameido, from a stone tortoise seated on a well in the grounds. Sugawara no Miehizane is here worshipped under the title of Temman Baijizai, i.e., * the Per- fectly Free and Heaven-Pilling Heavenly Divinity.' The temple grounds have been laid out in imitation of those at Dazaifu, the place of his exile. Passing in through the outer gate, the eye is

Kameido. Joshinji. Stisaki no Benten,

89

first attracted hj the wigtarias trained on trellis, whose blossoms during the last week of April make Kameido one of the chief show- places of Tokyo. They grow on the borders of a pond called 8hinji-no lie, or 'the Pond of the Word Heart,' on account of a supposed resemblance to i|>, the Chinese character for * heart ; ' and one of the amusements of the visitors is to feed the carp and tortoises which it contains. A semicircular bridge leads over the pond to a large gate in Fa^n^-tnune-sidburi (that is, eight- roofed style), standing in front of the temple. Glass cases inside the gate contain the usual large images of Zuijin. Round the walls of the temple, hang small pictures on a gold ground of the ancient religious dances called BiLgdku.

Beyond a shed containing two life-size images of sacred ponies, is an exit by which the visitor can reach the Ume-ycLshiki, or Plum- Garden of Kameido, 4 cho distant. It is known as Ghvaryohai (lit. the Plum-trees of the Recumbent Dra- gon), and is a g^reat show-place early in March, when the blossoms are all out. There are over 500 trees, all extremely old and partly creeping along the ground, whence the name. Most of the cut stones which stand about the grounds are inscribed with stanzas of poetry in praise of the flowers ; and during the season similar tributes, written on paper, will be seen hung up on the branches. A few eho from here liesMukojima (see p. 87).

The S.E. part of Tokyo, con- sisting of the district of Fukagawa on the 1. bank of the Sumida-gawa, is a maze of narrow streets, chiefly inhabited by the lower trading and artisan classes, and contains little for the sightseer.

Joshinji, though the chief temple of the Nichiren sect in Tokyo, is quite unpretentious, but there are some good carvings on the gates

of the priests* dwellings which line the narrow street leading up to it. In the court-yard is a large bronze image of Shaka sup- ported on the shoulders of stone demons ; and to the back, beyond the cemetery, a curious supersti- tious practice may be witnessed at the shrine of Shogyo Bosatsu. The stone image of the saint stands in a little wooden shed hung round with small regularly cut bundles of straw. The faithful buy these at the gate, dip them in water,, brush the idol with them, and then ladle water over his head, believing that this ceremony will ensure a favourable reply to their petitions. The image is con- stantly wet, showing how firm the belief is. The priests of the sect are unable to account for the origin of the usage.

The Shinto temple of Hctckiman, which dates from A.D. 1668, is handsome, owing to former Bud- dhist influence. The walls and ceil- ing are decorated with paintings of birds and flowers, and there are also some pretty wood carvings. The ornamentation of the chancel is extremely rich, the ceiling be- ing panelled, and .gold profusely scattered about. There are like- wise gold lions, and gold figures of the Sun-Goddess Amaterasu and of the Gods of JCasuga. Doves fiy about the grounds, as is usual in temples dedicated to Hachiman. They are supposed to act as the god's messengers, — strange messengers from the God ofWarl

The district situated between the temple of Hachiman and that of • Susaki-no-Benten is noted for its trade in timber, the town being here intersected by numerous canals communicating with the Okawa, down which come the tiniber-laden rafts from the inland provinces. The temple of SusaH no Benien (Susaju being the

90

Route 4. — Tokyo.

name of the projecting point of land on which it is situated) dates from the latter part of the 17th century, at which time the ground on which it was erected had only recently been reclaimed. The temple itself is uninteresting ; but on a clear day the view from a little stage built up in the grounds will repa^V a slight detour if the traveller happens to be in the neighbour- hood. It is seen to still better advantage by walking along the embankment built after the ravages of the inundations and tidal wav*-8 of the eighth decade of the last century. Beyond the wide sweep of sea in front, stretches 1. in the blue distance the coast line of Shimosa, while nearer to the spec- tator are the mountains of Kazusa and Boshu, Nokogiri-yama being most conspicuous both in height and outline. To the r. towers Mt. Fuji, Ranked on either side by the Oyama and Hakone ranges, while far away to the North rises double-peaked Mt. Tsukuba from the midst of the plain. At low tide, which the Japanese con- sider the prettiest time, and espe- cially if. the season be spring, numerous pleasure boats, with sing- ing-girls and other merry-makers, will be seen lazily floating about m the offing, watching the oyster- catchers ply their trade.

8. — TsuKiji.

On the way from the Shimbashi Terminus to the Foreign Conces- sion in Tsukiji, several important modern buildings are passed : — ^1. the Fifteenth National Bank, r. the Imperial Department of Communi- cations, and'further on r. the Cen- tral Telegraph Office and the huge Patent Office, opposite to which is the Seiyoken Hotel. Behind the latter stands the KcibuJci-zay one of the best theatres of the metropolis. The Naval Academy is seen to the r. beyond the canal.

Still further to the r. is the Enryd-kwan, formerly the summer palace of the Shoguns, and used in more recent times as a place of entertainment for illustrious visi- tors. The Duke of Edinburgh, General Grant, and Princes Albert Victor and George of Wales are amongst the personages who have received hospitality within its walls. The Enryo-kwan is also used once a year for an Imperial Garden party, at the season when the masses of double cherry-flowers are in bloom. The place is unfor- tunately not open to the general public.

The enormous tiled roof to the 1. is that of the

Nishi Hongwanji temple, popular- ly called the Tsukiji Monzeki. Originally founded in 1658, and destroyed by fire in 1872, this . temple was rebuilt in 1880. It was the first example of the partial adaptation of European architectural principles to a build- ing essentially Japanese. With the exception of the brick walls and the common glass windows, it is almost a replica of the Higashi Hongwanji at Asakusa. The smaller edifice to the 1. is a hall where sermons are preached.

A large proportion of the buildings in the Foreign Conces- sion is devoted to rehgious and educational purposes, testifying to the zeal of the various mission- ary bodies, whose members form the bulk of the population. The most striking places of worship are the Cathedral of the Protestant Episcopal Church of America and the Eoman Catholic Cathedral. Another conspicuous building is the Club Hotel, formerly the Ame- rican Legation, situated on the Bund facing the Sumida-gawa near its mouth. Beyond the river lies Ishikawa-jima, where stands the convict prison. The land is gaining rapidly on the water in this district, the whole spit op-

Route 5, — Excursions from Toyko*

91

posite the Bund having been re- claimed within the last fifteen years. The view across the water on a fine day is very pretty.

ROUTE 5.

Excursions prom Tokyo.

1. meguro and yijtenji. 2. ike- gami. 3. futago and mariko. 4. cormorant-fishing on the tamagawa. 5. juniso, hori-no- uchi, and i-no-kashira. 6. ko-

QANEI. 7. TAEAO-ZAN v'ld HACHI-

oji. 8. oji. 9. the cave-dwbll- ings near konosu. 10. konodai.

1. — Meguro,

Me^nro {Tea-houses, * Uchida, Hashiwa-ya; there are several others, but they are apt to be noisy), is a favourite picnic resort, 3 m. out of the city westwards by road or Suburban Railway; but the station is about a mile from the village. Shortly after leaving the station at the top of a descent called Gyonin-zaka, is 1. the small temple of Daienji, which deserves passing notice for the sake of the Go-hyaku Bakan, — ^tier upon tier of small seated images of Bud- dhas in various attitudes of lAedi- tation, quaint yet pathetic in their stony stillness. Meguro is seen to best advantage when either the peonies or the chrysanthemums are in blossom. There are two permanent sights — ^the temple of Fudo, and the graves of Gompachi and Komurasaki. The key to the latter is kept at the tea-house. The grave is called Hiyohirzuka, after the hiyoku a fabulous d|(>uble bird which is an emblem of con- stancy in love. It may be added that sentiment is the only motive

for visiting the grave, as there is really nothing to see.

About 260 years ago, there lived a young man called Shirai Gompachi, who at the age of sixteen had already won a name for his skill in the use of arms, but, having had the misfortune to kill a fellow-clansman in a quarrel over a dog, was compelled to fly from his native province. While rest- ing in an inn, on his way to Yedo, a beau- tiful girl came and awoke him at midnight, to tell him that a band of robbers, who had stolen her from her home, intended to kill him for the sake of the sword which every Samurai, at that time, carried. Being thus forewarned, Gompachi suc- ceeded in slaying all the thieves when the attack was made upon him. He also restored Komurasaki to her grateful father, a rich merchant, who would have been glad to make the young man his son-in-law; but being ambitious, Gom- pachi insisted on pursuing his way to Yedo. Meanwhile, unhappy Komurasaki was left to pine for the handsome youth with whom she had fallen deeply in love. After further adventures, Gompachi reached Yedo, only however to fall into dissolute habits. Hearing much praise of a lovely and accomplished girl who had lately become an inmate of the Yoshi- wara, Gompachi went to see her, and was astonished to find in the famous beauty no other than the maiden whom he had but a few months before rescued from the robbers* den. It was the usual pathetic story. Her parents having become poverty-stricken, she had sold herself in order to alleviate their distress. Frequent visits to his sweetheart soon exhausted G^mpachi's slender means, and having no fixed employment, he was driven in des- peration to murder a man to procure money to take him to the Yoshiwara. The crime was repeated, until he was caught red-handed, and ultimately beheaded as a common malefactor. A friend claimed his body and buried it at Meguro, whither poor Komuitisaki hastened on hearing the sad news of her lovers end, and, throwing herself on the newly-made grave, plunged a dagger into her breast and died.

At the bottom of the steps lead- ing up to the temple of Fudo, is a pool fed by two tiny cascades. To stand naked under the stream of water for several hours in cold weather is considered a meritori- ous penance, the effect of which is to wash away all taint of sin. Tradition says that Jikaku Dai- shi, the founder of this temple, miraculously called the spring into existence by the aid of his

92

Boute 5. — Exciirsiom from Tokyo.

mace {iolcko)^ whence the name of Tokko-no-takiy or 'mace cascade.' The most remarkable of the ex- Yotos is a huge sword, such as the god Fudo is often represented with.

To avoid mistakes, it may here be noted that \ ri from Meguro proper, there is another village called Kami-Meguro, At the latter also there is a good spot for picnics, called SMftr-Fvioi, — a small artificial hiU from the top of which an extensive view is obtained. A third picnic resort in this neigh- bourhood is 8enxohi, which has a pretty piece of water.

Ten cho W. of Meguro, stands in solemn solitude the handsome temple of Tutenji, founded in the early part of tne 18th century. The art-treasures of this temple, which are aired {ymLshi-hotiki) in the autumn of every other year, will weU repay a visit. Among the most interesting objects, are some fine specimens of old European tapestry, which were probably pre- sented to the Shogun by the head of the Dutch factory at Nagasaki. At other times it is impossible to see these objects, as they are care- fully stored away.

2. — iKEaAUI.

_ Ikegami is reached by train to Omori station on the Yokohama line ii^^ hr., whence it is about 1 m. by jinrikisha. The great temple of H(ymmonji is celebrated, as being the place where the Buddhist saint Nichiren died in A.D. 1282. Its situation and magnificent timber make it one of the most attractive points within easy reach of Tokyo. The best time to visit it is from the 11th to 13th October, when the annual festival in Nichiren's honour takes place. Another festival is held from the 22nd to 28th April. At the top of the temple steps is 1. the Daimoku-do, where some of the faithful are generally to be heard

beating the drum and reciting the formulary of the sect — Nanrn nvyoho renge kyo. Next to this, is a temple dedicated to Kato Kiyo- masa. Then comes the Shaka-do, or hall dedicated to Shaka, where worshippers spend the night at the time of the annual festival, with, behind it, another building containing a complete set of the Buddhist scriptures which may be made to revolve on a huge hexa- gonal wheel. Fronting the gate is the main temple, recently restored in handsome style, an evidence of the popularity which this sect still enjdys. On the altar stands an exquisitely lacquered shrine, con- taining a life-size image of Nichi- ren in sitting posture, said to have been carved by Nichiro, one of his chief disciples. The upper part of the wall is painted with pictures of angels performing on musical in- struments. Behind the altar, out- side the temple, is a pictorial representation of the chief in- cidents in the saint's life. The extensive buildings at the rear are the residences of the abbot and monks. Although Nichiren died at Ikegami, his bones were con- veyed to Minobu ; all that remain here are one tooth and the ashes of his funeral pyre. The shrine (Kotavndd) contuning these relics is a short way down the hill to the 1. This building, about 20 ft. in diameter, stands on a huge lotus- fiower of stone. (For plan of Ike- gami see p. 26).

One may picnic either at the tea- house (*Tamba-ya) in the village, or (but in this case notice must be sent the day before, as the matter is more or less one of favour) at Eijuin, a temple in the wood behind the pagoda, having beautiful plum-tree a and peonies and a fine view. The imposing-looking tomb in the temp'.e garden is that of a Daimyo's wife. A third place, inunediately below the pagoda, is the immense tea-house of Akebono-ro, popularly

Futago,' The Tamagawa. Hon-no-tichi,

93

tnow^n as Ikegami Onsen. It is <imte a curiosity, sprawling as it does, up and down two hills by means of galleries and bridges, which remind the beholder of scenes familiar in Chinese art. This tea-house is a favourite native holiday resort.

3. FUTAGO AND MaBIKO.

Fatag^O (Inn, Kame-ya), on the Tamagawa, is a picnic resort 2^ ri by jinrikisha from Tokyo. Just before reaching the river, there is a striking view of Fuji and a panorama of the surrounding country. During the simimer months, the Japanese visit Futago for the sake of the sport — if so it can be termed — of watching fisher- men net the ai, a kind of trout. One ri down the river is

Mariko, a place of similar char- acter. A pleasant way of returning to Tokyo is to take boat down the river to Kawasaki station, which, is about 2 hrs. from Futago. The distance 'by the direct jinrikisha road from Mariko to Tokyo is 2 ri

4. — coemobant-flshing on the Tamagawa.

This curious method of catching fish may be seen at the ferry of Sekido on the Tamagawa. The best way of reaching Sekido is to take train from Shimbashi or Shin- jiku to Kokubunji (1^ hr.), a small village on the Hachioji Railway, whence jinrikishas may be obtain- ed to Sekido, li ri, passing through Fuchu, (Inn, Naka-ya), a thriving little town situated on what was the old highway before the in- troduction of railways. Two cor- morants are usually kept at the ferry-house at Sekido, and fisher- men with these birds may be enr gaged at a cost of $1.50 per diem. If more birds are wanted, notice ahould be given to the fishermen a

day in advance. The cormorants are held by strings kept in the hands of the men, who wade about and relieve them of their prey. A fair quantity of small fish may generally be reckoned on. Instead of returning to Kokubunji, the excursion may be varied by diver- ging at Fuchu for Sakai station, 1 ri longer by road, but 3 m. nearer to Tokyo by raU.

5. — JuNiso, HoRi-NO-ucHi, Omita Hachiman, and I-no-kashiba.

Jniiiso. Train to Shinjiku sta- tion on the Suburban Line, or jin- rikisha all the way. Crossing the railway, and proceeding along the Ome Kaido for 10 min., the path to Juniso turns 1. through the fields, and in 10 min. more a short avenue of pines is reached, leading to the small and deserted temple of Juniso Gongen. Below the temple lies a small lake, plentifully supplied with a species of carp. Several tea-sheds stand at the upper end. Juniso is a favourite spot for picnics during the sum- mer months.

Hori-no-iichi may be reached in f hr. from Juniso. A lane directly behind the tea-sheds soon rejoins the Ome Kaido, along which we proceed for i hr., to leave it again by a path 1., at the corner of which is a pretty plum orchard. A short distance beyond, the path turns sharp r., where a stone indicates the distance to Hori-no-uchi as 16 cho. The road is lined with shops for the sale of rosaries, salted plums, toys, etc. The temple of Myohdji at Hori-no-uchi, belonging to the Nichiren sect, merits a visit for the sake of the excellent car- vings which adorn the main build- ing, those of dragons in the porch, below the architrave, and in the eaves being especially spirited. The iron gates and railing to the r. of the main entrance are good specimens of modern workmanship.

94

Route 5, — Excursions from Tokyo.

On the 1. of the court, is a long shed full of a curious collection of ez-Totos, such as the queues of men whose prayers have been granted by the interposition of Nichiren, oil-paintings, etc. In the main hall, a splendid shrine 5 ft. square and 10 ft. long, covered with gilt carvings, occupies the centre of the further side of the chancel. It contains a seated image of Nichiren, said to be the earliest efSgy of the saint, and to have been carved in 1261. It can be seen on payment of a small fee. The principal festival is held on the 13th October, the anniversary of Nichiren's death.

Half a Ti further_on, is the once notable temple of Omiya Hachinum, founded in the 10th century, but now completely abandoned and . falling into decay. A broad and stately avenue of cryptomerias and maple-trees, and several torii, attest its former importance.

Proceeding through the flat fields for 3i m. further, we reach the temple of Benten, picturesquely situated on the borders of the small lake of I-no-kashira, whose waters, derived trom seven small springs, supply the aqueduct leading to Kanda in Tokyo.

History says that in 100B the lake was visited by leyaau, who found the water BO excellent that it was used ever after for making His Hi^hness's tea. In 16.39, his grandson, the Bhognn lemitsu, gave orders for the water to be laid on to the Castle in Yedo. He also, on the occa- sion of a visit to the lake, carved with the small knife from his dirk the head of a wild boar {i-no-kaghira) on the trunk of a tree close by, whence the present name. It was not, however, till about 1653 that the aqueduct was constructed.

I-no-kashira attracts visitors chiefly in May, when the azaleas are out. At other seasons, it is quite neglected.

The best wa^to return to Tokyo is to join the 5me Kaido, 40 min., whence it is about 2 ri to Shinjiku station. After bad weather the roads are heavy throughout..

6. — KOOANEI.

Koganei, with its fine avenue of cherry-trees 2^ m. in length along the banks of the small canal that conducts the waters of the Tama- gawa to T6ky6, is about 1^ ri beyond I-no-kcuhira, but should only be visit- ed when the trees are in blossom. It is most easily reached by train to Sakai on the Hachioji Hne, \ hr. from Shinjiku Junction, and some 15 min. distant from the avenue. Ten thousand young trees were brought from Yoshino in Yamato, and from the banks of the Sakura-gawa in Hitachi, and plant- ed here in 1735 by command of the Sh5gun Ybshimune.

The crowds that assemble daily to picnic under the shade of the pink and white blossoms about the middle of April, present a spectacle that should not be missed by visi- tors to Tokyo at that time of year.

Instead of returning to Sakai, it will be found shorter to walk on to Kokuhwnji station, which is only about 20 min. from the upper end of the avenue.

7. — Bt the Shinjiku - Hachioji Railway to Takao^zan.

§ 2

Q OD

3 m. 10 13 IT

19 28

Names

of Stations.

SHINJIKU Jet Nakano.

Sakai

Kokubunji. Tachikawa.

Hino.

hachi5ji.

Remarks.

Alight for cherry avenue of Ko- ganei.

Alight for Tajna- gawa Valley, Route 10.

This is a favourite excursion ii spring and autumn with holiday makers from Tokyo. The railway journey toHachidji occupies 1^ hr. whence it is 2 ri along the plain t<

Takao'zan, OJL

95

the foot of Takao-zan. Jinrikishas and carriages traverse this distance in about 1 hr. The ascent of the mountain is an easy 40 min. walk.

The railway track, after leaving Shinjiku, lies for a short distance close to the florists' gardens of Okubo, noted for their azaleas, the rest of the route passing mostly through a flat couhtry with a heavy, clayey soil. The Tamagawa and one of its affluents are crossed "before reaching

Hachioji (Inn, Kado-ya), the centre of an important silk district, but otherwise uninteresting. One long and wide street forms the business part of the town. A few minutes may be spent in visiting the bazaar (Kioankdha), which has been opened near the station.

A short distance beyond the village of Komagino, the path lead- ing up Takao-zan turns off r. from the main road, and crosses the stream.

Takao-zan is a mountain rising about 1,600 ft. above the sea. On the summit stands a much frequented temple, surrounded by a splendid grove, chiefly of cryptomerias, which were planted in past times by devotees of the temple. The road is lined with posts on which are recorded the names of persons who have presented young trees, so many hundreds at a time, with the object of maintaining the grove undimi- nished. On the platform at the top of the ascent, stands a flne bronze pagoda, 12 ft. in height. Above this, on another terrace, are three shrines dedicated to Fudo, Yakushi, and Dainichi, and at the top of a long flight of steps is a gaudily decorated Shinto shrine with paint- ed carvings. The trees shut out the view from this point ; but lower down a space has been cleared, from which the eye ranges over the plain of Tokyo and the sea in the distance. A narrower and steeper path than that ascended, may be taken on the way down^

and affords pretty glimpses of the densely wooded vaUey.

8.— Oji.

_ Oji.— The pretty Httle village of Oji, formerly one of the most en- joyable retreats in the suburbs of Tokyo, now presents more the aspect of a manufacturing centre than of a holiday resort. Huge brick buildings, paper and cotton mills, the clash of machinery, and lofty chimneys from which columns of smoke sweep over the cherry- trees on Asuka-yama, deprive the place of much of its old tranquil- lity and beauty. Oji is, neverthe- less, still one of the attractions in the environs of the great city, and crowds flock there twice a year, — in spring when the cherry- trees are in blossom, and in autumn when the maples which line the banks of the Taki-no-gawa put on their crimson tints.

The train from Ueno station lands one in a few minutes close to the excellent tea-houses, Ogi-ya and Ebi-ya, which stand together on the edge of the stream and look (Jut on a small but tastefully arranged garden. Half a mile be- yond the tea-houses, in a grove of evergreen oaks on the top of a slight eminence, stands the temple of Inari. The buildings consist of a rather dilapidated oratory and chapel. In the court-yard are some fine old cherry-trees. The temple and little waterfall dedi- cated to Fud6, also in the vicinity of the tea-houses, attract many visitors. As the trains are gene- rally full to overflowing during the cherry and maple seasons, some visitors may prefer to go out by road. The prettiest way, 5 m., leaves the little lake at Ueno, and passing through the suburb of Shimo Komagome, turns to the r. on reaching the tomb of the Daimyo of Kaga, descends the hill, and follows up the valley to the 1.

96

Route 6. — Excursions from Tokyo,

9. — The Cave-dwellings (Hyahur Ana) NEAB KoNOSU.

These caves, amongst the most perfect specimens of troglodytic dwellings in Japan, are situated in Kita Toshimi-mura in the prefec- ture of Saitama, and are within the limits of a day's excursion from Tokyo. Konosu is reached in 1^ hr. by train from TJeno station. The road to Kita Yoshimi-mura, 2^ ri distant, crosses the railway line not far from the station, and runs over the plain straight towards the Chichibu mountains. It is a level jinrikisha road, but apt, in parts, to be heavy after rain. Kita Yoshimi-mura nestles under the first hilly ground met with on the road. At the further end of the village, and before coining to a suspension bridge over a small stream, the path to the caves turns r., and the cave-dwellings, present- ing the appearance of a gigantic beehive, are seen in front. On the way, a quaint old temple of Kwan- non, worthy of a few minutes* attention, is passed. It is wedged in between rocks, from the inner side of which an entrance leads to a chamber containing a number of stone images of Kwannon. The mouth of the chamber, with the images within, is seen from the road. A few yards beyond lie the caves, where the local au- thorities, by whom the place is now maintained, have established an office, whose occupants act as guides and point out the parts best worth inspection. The whole hill- side is honeycombed with these strange relics of a remote antiquity, which are believed to have been once inhabited by the beings whom the Japanese term ' earth-spiders.'

The original Japanese word is tsuchi- gumo. There is considerable doubt as to its etymology, though every one agrees in interpreting it to mean a race of cave- dwelling savages, Motoori, the greatest of all Japanese literati, explains the name by a comparison of the habits of the race in question to those of the spider. But it

is surely more rational to regard the "wch^ if »McAt-^« wo as a ci »rruption of f »«cAt-^o»«ori, ' earth- Ai<i«r»,' than which no name could, be more appropriate to troglodytes. These people, who were widely spread over Japan in prehistoric times, were probably the ancestors of the modem Ainos. One of the earliest Japanese histories describes them as ' short in stature, and having- long arms and legs like pigmies.' Jimmu. Tenno is said to have massacred a number of them in one of their caves.

The caves are said to number two hundred and thirty- seven iii all ; but the majority of them, were only discovered some three years ago by the researches of Mr. Tsuboi, of the Imperial University of Japan, an energetic archseologist. Most of the caves face due S. The entrance to each is about 3 ft. square ; then comes a passage of 6 ft. and upwards in length, leading to a second doorway within which are the chambers. These are of various sizes, many being about 6 ft. square, and from 5 to 6 ft. high. The ceilings are dome-shaped. Each chamber contains one or two ledges, probably for sleeping pur- poses, and with slightly raised edges to prevent the occupant from rolling out. Some are quite small, as if meant for children. Traces of the use of tools are visible on the walls. Iron rings, arrow-heads, etc., have been found in some of the caves ; but the presence of these is doubt- less due to the fact, as local tradi- tion asserts, that parties of fight- ing men took refuge there in more modern times. The hill affords an extensive view of the adjacent mountains, including Buko-zan in the Chichibu range, Fuji, and Asama yama. The town of Matsu,- yama (Inn, Koji-ya) is only 13 cho distant. It contains a large Shinto temple to the gods of Inari, called the Yakyu Inari.

KONODAI.

Omnibuses ply daily between Eyogoku-bashi and the Ichikawa ferry, Sri 26 cho (9 m.), a 'Treaty Limit' boundary where passports

Route 6, — Hakone and Miyanoshita,

97

have to be shown. Konodai pro- perly Mama Korwdai (Inn, Musashi- ya, close to the ferry), is the bluff on the opposite side of the river, i m. above the ferry, and is a favourite resort of holiday- makers from Tokyo. It was the site of a strong fortress held by Satomi Awa-no-Kami, from whom it was captured and razed to the ground by the powerfid H5jo family of Odawara, in 1564. The situation affords a pleasing view of the plain, with Fuji and the Oyama range in the background. Pretty, also, is the view of the fleet of boats sailiiQg up the Yedo-gawa before a brisk breeze. The whole site is thickly overgrown with trees and rank vegetation ; but a priest from the dilapidated monastery of Soneiji, which stands within the same enclosure, will act as guide, and point out various objects of interest, including the tomb of Ogasawara Sadayori, the discoverer of the Bonin Islands. Afterwards, a visit should be made to the temple of Kbhoji in the near vicinity, specially noted for the richness of the maple tints in autumn. Down the steps on the hill-side, stands a shrine dedicated to a beautiful girl called Mama-no-Tekona, who, for reasons which tradition does not assign, drowned herself in the swamp close by.

The story of Mama-no-Tekona was al- ready an ancient one in the 8tli century. The unfortunate maiden is much prayed to i)y women for safe delivery and for the protection of their children from small- pox. Several poems have been preserved m an ancient anthology called the Man- 9dfhi which refer to her, but these say nothing of the motives which drove her to commit suicide.

ROUTE 6.

The Hakone District; Miyano- shita, Hakone.

1. general inrobmation. 2. miya- noshita and neighboubhood. 3. hakone and neighbourhood.

1. — General Information.

This route is specially recom- mended, as uniting charm of scenery, accessibility, and an un- usual degree of comfort. All tourists arriving at Yokohama are advised to devote a week to it, and if they have not so much time at their disposal, then to devote two or three days to a portion of it. Even should they be disinclined for walking and sightseeing, they will find no place more pleasant for idling in at aU seasons than Miya- noshita.

The word Hakone, it should be observed, though employed by us, as by all Euro- peans, to denote the village called by the Japanese Hakone-no-Shuku, Hakone-no-Ekif or Makone-Mura, is properly the general name of the entire mountainous district lying at the neck of the peninsula of Izu, between the Bays of Odawara and Suruga. For this reason the Japanese talk of Miyanoshita, Kiga, etc., as being * in Hakone.' The original name of Hakone Lake (now, however, used only in poetry) is Ashi-no-Umi, that is, * the Sea of Reeds.' Hence the name of the hot springs of A$hinoyu. The lake is, in round num- bers, \\ ri long, 4^ H round, and has a depth of 37 fathoms in its deepest part.

The following are the heights of the chief villages and mountains mentioned in this route : —

Ashinoyu 2,870 feet.

Dai-ga-take 3,500 „

Dogashima 1,080 „

Futago-yama 3,620 „

Hakone 2,400 „

Higane (temple near

Atami) 2,400 „

Kamiyama 4,770 „

Kiga 1,400 „

Kintoki-zan 4,060 „

Kojigoku 2,100 „

Koma-ga-take 4,600 „

Miyagino 1,500 „

98

Route 6, — Hakone and Miyanoahita,

Miyanoshita 1,400

Myojin-ga-take 3,880

My6j6-ga-take 3,080

Ojigoku 3,466

Otome-toge 3,333

Saijoji (temple) 1,240

Sengoku-hara 2,170

Ten Province Pass 3,216

Ubago 2,940

Yumoto 400

feet.

2. — Miyanoshita and Nbiohboub-

HOOD.

Miyanoshita (Hotels, **Fuji-ya, *Nara-ya, both large establishments in foreign style) is easily reached from Yokohama by the Tokaido Railway to Kozu station, li hr. ; thence by tram, jinrikisha, or car- riage to Yumoto, 1 hr. ; thence by jinrikisha (at least two men neces- sary) or on foot for 1^ ri up the valley of the Hayakawa to Miya- noshita, nearly 1 hr. by jinrikisha, li hr. on foot— say 4i hrs. for the whole journey, including stoppages. From Tokyo it is 1 hr. more, or 5^ hrs. in all.

Tbam Itinebabt along Plain.

Edzu to : — Ri. Cho. M.

Odawara 1 28 4,^

Yumoto 2 10 5i

Total 4 2 10

Walking ob Jtnbikisha Itineb- abt UP New Eoad.

Yiunoto to : — Ri. Cho. M.

Tonosawa 6^ i

Miyanoshita 1 16i 3^

(Kiga. 9 i

Miyagino 5 ^)

Total 2 15

At Kozn (Jrm, Hayano), it is worth devoting a few minutes to walking out on the beach to look at the beautiful view of Odawara Bay, with, to the r., the peninsula of

Izu on whose coast Atami is situa- ted, the volcano of Oshima (Vries Island), and the islet of Enoshima. to the 1. Turning round, one has a magnificent view of Fuji. The road from Kozu to Yumoto (the old Tokaido) leads for the first part of the way through the town of Odawara (Inn, Koise-ya), cele- brated in Japanese history as the scene of many bloody conflicts in feudal times.

Odawara belonged successively to various families of Daimyos, who dwelt in. the castle which was not finaUy destroyed, till the time of the late revolution. The most celebrated of these families were the Hoj5, a younger branch of the family of ' Regents ' who ruled over Japan daring the 13th century and the first three decades of the 14th. This younger branch, choosing Odawara as their capital in A.D. 1495, continued to reside there for five generations, namely, tiU 1590, when they were defeated and the power 'of their house broken for ever by the Taiko Hide- " yoshi in the battle of Ishikake-yama. Retiring to their castle, the various com- manding officers on the HojS side could come to no agreement, as time wore on, as to whether it were better to await the onslaught of the enemy, or to sally forth themselves and offer battle. While they were still discussing this question in all its bearings, Hideyoshi made a sudden attack and captured the castle by a coup de main. Hence the proverbial saying, Odawara hyOgi, that is, the Odawara con- ference,' which means endless talk re- sulting in nothing. Among the common people, who care not for the deeds of days gone by, Odawara is chiefly noted for the manufacture of a quack medicine called uirO, which is looked on as a panacea for all the ills to which flesh is heir.

The tram-car changes horses op- posite the ruined walls of the castle. On leaving Odawara, the road enters the valley of the Haya- kawa near the mouth of that stream, which takes its origin in Lake Hakone. The two round summits seen almost constantly ahead are Futago-yama, * the Twin Mountains.' The avenue to the r. of the tram road marks the old Tokaido, which carriages and jinrikishas still follow. At

Tiimoto, 10 min. out of the vill., there is a cascade known as Tamadare no taki. A small fee is

Walks near Miyanoshita,

99

ehwrged for admittance. Tumoto boasts a large inn, called Fuku- ziupi ; but it would seem to be conducted with a view to the almost exclusive reception of Japa- nese guests. Foreigners obliged to break the journey are therefore advised to push on 6^ chd further to the village of

Tonosawa, where the Tamano- yu Hotel will be found a pieasanter abode, owing to the fact that Euro- pean food and beds are provided. There are also good hot springs. The white building, which strikes the eye on the hill opposite, is a Russian chapel. The mosaic wood- work (hiji-mono), which from Yumoto onwards fills such a pro- minent place in every shop-window, is the specialty for which the whole Miyanoshita^Hakone district is noted. The hamlet more than half way up from Yumoto to Miyano- ahita is

Ohiradai. On the r. side there is a good wood-work shop, Wata- nabe, whose specialty, is the fine bamboo basket-work of Shizuoka.

Miyanoshita is a pleasant resort for many reasons — the purity of the air, the excellence of the hotels, the numerous pretty walks both short and long, the plentiful supply of ' chairs * and of specially large and comfortable kagos for those who prefer being carried, and the delicious hot baths, which, containing but faint traces of salt and soda, may be used without medical advice. . The principal short walks are : —

1. To Kiga by the new road (distance, 9 chd, say ^ hr.): — no climbing, good waterfalls on the way, beautiful gold-fish to feed with cakes at the Sengoku-ya tea-house. Equally flat and pleasant road 5 ehd further up the valley of the Hayakawa to Miyagino. The Eiga waUc may be varied by taking the still more picturesque but less easy old road, turning sharp up to

the 1. on leaving the Fuji-ya Hotel, passing through the village -of Sokokura, where most Japanese visitors to the springs stop in pre- ference to Miyanoshita, then down to the r., and over an old rustic bridge, where cascades of cold water and pipes leading hot water to the hotels may be seen in strange juxtaposition; thence to the charm- ing little tea-house of Mi-harashi, with extensive view of the valley and uplands and Eiga below, and so on down to Eiga itself (11 chd altogether). Eiga, though little patronised by foreigners on ac- count of its want of airiness, is a favourite resort of the Japanese, and boasts several excellent inns in native style, also a new one in foreign style called Ise-ya.

2. To Dogashima, a village som'e few hundred yards below Mi- yanoshita, down a steep ravine. There are a pretty cascade and a charming villa, permission to visit which may sometimes be obtained through the proprietors of the Mi- yanoshita hotels.

3. Walk down the new road in the direction of Tonosawa _to the toll-houses, (8i chd), or on to Ohira- dai (17 chd),

4. Climb half-way up Sengen- yaiiia, the wooded hill immediately at the back of the bachelors' quarters of the Fuji-ya HoteL It is a steep pull of from 20 min. to i hr. The height has been roughly estimated at 1,000 ft. above the village. Te£b-shed on the top. Beautiful view of upper half of Fuji, the tooth-shaped mountain Eintoki-zan, and on the other side, the sea with Enoshima and Cape Misaki.

Somewhat longer (1 to 2 hrs.), less good walking, but very pic- turesque are : —

5. To Kiga and Miyagrino, as in

No. 1 ; then cross the river and turn sharp to the r., walking home

100

Eoute 6. — Hakone and Miyaiwshita,

on the other side, and re-crossing to the Miyanoshita side at Dogashima. Guide indispensab'e. This is the most beautiful of all the walks near Miyanoshita. It takes a good walker a little over 1 hr.

6. Up to Kojigokn ; then down past the hamlet of Ninotaira to Miyagino and Kiga, whence home either by the new or the old road. This walk may be abridged by turning to the r. before reaching Kojigoku, almost all the paths r. leading down ultimately to the Kiga road. Some i)ersons may feel tempted to stay at Kojigoku rather than at Miyanoshita, as the former place is some 700 ft. higher, and consequently has fresher air. The only disadvantage is the loneliness of the spot. The Kaikwatei Hotel is under foreign management, and the Mikawa-ya is a good Japanese inn.

The meaning of the name Kojiaohtc is * small hell.' It was given to the place in allusion to some small sulphur springs, which supply the hotel baths. In 1877, on the occasion of the visit of H. M. the Mikado, the name of Kojigoku was officially altered to Kowaki-daniy which means ' the valley of the lesser boiling.' But the older name appears to be still the more popular of the two.

A good half-day's excursion is to: —

7. Ojigrokn« or ^big hell,' alter- natively named Owaki-dani, 'the valley of the greater boiling/ dis- tant a little under 2 n to the top of the gorge. Neither name is a misnomer. The whole gorge reeks with sulphureous fumes, vegetation decreases as one ascends higher, and the aspect of the scene becomes weird and desolate. It is advisable to tread carefuUy after the guide, as more lives than one have been sacrificed by a false step on the treacherous crust. The view from the top of the gorge differs as widely in its charms from the scene of desolation just tra- versed as can well be imagined. In the centre, Fuji towers up in

perfect beauty. To the extreme r. is Kintoki-zan, then the Otome- toge, the Nagao-toge, and to the L the more imposing slopes of Ashi- taka. The summit of Kammuri- ga-take, which rises up immediately behind the sulphur springs^ dis- tinguishes itseft by its graceful outline and by the dense forest covering its sides. The vegetation of this neighbourhood, moreover, is remarkable, consisting as it does chiefly of the small box and asemi (And/romeda japonica).

8. Up Myoj6-ga4ake, the big grassy hill immediately opposite Miyanoshita, on the other side of the stream. It is a walk of 1^ hr. to the top, the path at first leading down through the vill. of Doga- shima, there crossing the stream, and then turning considerably to the r., before turning 1. again along the crest of the hill. The view from the summit is magnificent. In the centre is Fuji, the depression immediately in front of which is the Otome-toge ; then to the r. KintokiandMyojin-ga-take, behind which rise Oyama, and Tanzawa ; in the plain the Sakawa-gawa, and behind it the low range of Soga- yama, in which a red treeless patch marks the Kozu railway station. The town of Odawara can be seen by walking back a few yards j then the sea with Oshima, and to the r. the low slope of Ishikake-yama ; then Futago-yama, Koma-ga-take, Kami-yama, and Dai-ga-take. The blear spot on Kami-yama is the solfatara of So-on-jigoku. Still further to the r., in the blue distance, is Ashitaka-yama. The best time to see this view is at sunrise or at sunset. The coolie should therefore carry a lantern, either for the first or for the last portion of the walk. Those who are willing to face a very stony path for the sake of continued beautiful views, are advised to return vii Miyagino and Kiga. The whole

Ashinoyu, Futago-yama»

101

e3q)edition will then take from 3 to 3i hrs., including stoppages.

9. To Ashinoyu and Hnkone (1

ri 4 cho to Ashinoyu, thence 1 ri on to Hakone). Ashinoyu (Inns, *Mat8uzaka-ya, foreign food and beds ; Kinokuni-ya) is famous for its sulphur springs, whose efficacy in the .treatment of skin diseases and rheumatism attracts crowds of Japanese patients and not a few foreigners, despite the bleak uninviting appearance of the locali- ty. Ashinoyu is very cool in sum- mer, owing to its height, but pays for this advantage by being fre- quently enveloped in mist. The road thither, about half of which is a stiff puU, leads close by Kojigoku. Just before reaching Ashinoyu, towards the end of a steep climb called the Nana-mawari, or * seven turnings,' the guide should be told to lead over a small eminence known as Benten-yama. It is not at all out of the way, and offers a splendid view — Odawara Bay, the peninsula of Miura with Enoshima like a little knob on the coast ; and beyond that, Tokyo Bay and the blue outline of the provinces of S^azusa and Boshu, which divide Tokyo Bay from the Pacifla The chief mountain to the 1. is Oyama, bluntly triangular in shape. Ashi- noyu itself has no view, as it lies in a marshy depression, though on the top of a hill.

[On a hill 8 cho beyond Ashinoyu, at a place called Tu-wi-hana- zawa, a bathing establishment with very strong sulphur baths has recently been opened. There is a splendid view, simi- lar to that from Benten-yama. This walk, and that along the flat in the direction^of Hakone, are the two best for invalids staying at Ashinoyu.]

After leaving Ashinoyu, the path is at first level, and then descends most of the way to Hakone. The first object of interest passed is.

1., a set of three small stone monu- ments, two of which are dedicated to the Soga Brothers {8oga Kyodai), famous for the vendetta which they executed in the hunting-camp of the Shogun Yoritomo, at the base of Fuji, in the year 1193, on Kudo Suketsune, the murderer of their father. The third and smallest of the monuments preserves the memory of Tora Gk)zen, a_beautiful courtesan of the town of Oiso, who was the mistress of the elder of the two brothers, and became a nun on his decease. A few yards further on, to the 1. and half -hidden among the grass and bushes, is a block of andesite rock well- worth pausing a moment to inspect, as it is covered with Buddhist images carved in relief. These images are known as the Ni-jvrgO'Bosatsu, that is, * the 25 Bosatsu ; ' but which of the many thousands of these divine beings they are intended to represent, is uncertain. The carving apparent- ly dates from A.D. 1293. But the chief curiosity on the road is the large Image of Jiao, carved in relief on a block of andesite, and worthy to be counted among the triumphs of the * Japanese chisel. Tradition has it that the great Buddhist saint, Kobo DaisM, carved this image in a single night. A festival in its honour is celebrated yearly on the 23rd August.

[A short way past this large image, the way up the nearer of Fntago-yama's two chief summits turns off to the 1. The ascent, which will take a good walker 20 min. or i hr. from this spot, is worth making — ^perhaps most con- veniently as a separate walk from Miyanoshita or from Ha- kone,— ^the ancient crater, now thickly carpeted with moss and overgrown with bushes and trees, being remarkably extensive, and the view from its upper rim, which is clear of wood, being magnificent.

102

Route 6. — Hakone and Miyanos/iita,

The chief points to be noticed are : to the N.E., the Oyama and Tanzawa ranges, with the plain of Sagami» and in the distance Tokyo Bay ; to the E., Sagami Bay and the promon- tories of Misaki and Sonosaki, with the islet of Enoshima ; to the S.E., Vries Island with its ceaseless column of smoke, and the smaller islands of To- shima, Niijima, etc., forming with it and with more distant Hachijo the 'Seven Isles of Izu ; ' to the S., Amagi-san in 1 3^11, and to the r. of it the blue Grulf of Suruga with its line of white surf, and the narrow pine-clad promontory of Mio- no-Matsubara shutting in Shi- mizu Bay ; to the W.N.W., and seemingly within a few yards of the spectator, Kammuri- ga-take, which unfortunately hides the whole of Fuji except a small portion of one slope ; to the N. W. and N., the moun- tains of Koshiu and Chichibu. At the spectator's feet sparkle the waters of Lake Hakone. The long mountain-ridge be- yond the lake and a little to the 1., is called Taiko yama or Taiko-michi, from a tradition to the effect that the Taiko Hideyoshi led his troops along it when going to fight the battle of Ishikake-yama. The way was shown him — so it is alleged — by a hunier, whom he thereupon killed, in order to make sure that the enemy should not profit by the poor fellow's local knowledge. It is possible to ascend the further summit of Putago-yama {8hi~ ta-Futago) ; but the labour of forcing one's way through the thick undergrowth is not re- paid, as the summit itself is covered with trees and bushes that shut out all view. Koiiia- ^n-tiike, also, may be as- cended r. from near the large

image of Jizo. But though, the loftiest mountain in the Hakone range excepting Kami- yama, it is less worth climb- ing than Futago-yama, as the plateau-like nature of the top makes it impossible to take in the whole of the view from any single spot. It has, how- ever, the advantage of showing Fuji from peak to base. A boulder at the top of Komar-ga- take is the subject of a curious superstition. ■ It is believed that the water contained in the hollows of this boulder never runs dry ; and the peasants of the surrounding country make pilgrimages to it in seasons of drought, in order to obtain rain by scattering the drops about to the four winds. But if any of the water be taken down the mountain, the result is a typhoon. — Koma-ga-take may also be ascended from a point nearer the vill. of Ashi- noyu; but the climb is then considerably steeper.] The two meres, r. and 1., on the way between Ashinoyu and Hakone, are the remains of ancient craters. The first hamlet reached on getting to the lake is Moto-Hakone, 12 cho this side of Hakone itself. There is an inn called the Tsuta-ya, pleasantly situated on the border of the lake, and commanding the best view of Fuji to be had in this neighbourhood.

Instead of returning to Miyano- shita by the way one has come, it will be found pleasant in warm weather to take a boat from Hakone (or from Moto-Hakone, which shortens the expedition by one mile) to a spot called Shin-yu at the far end of the lake (the Japanese designation for the far-end of the lake is Umi-jiri). Alighting there, we go past the pleasant little bath- ing village of XJhdgOy up the spur separating the lake from Ojigoku, and return home to Miyanoshita •

Hata, Otome-toge,

108

by the Ojigokn, way, as in walk No. 7. Those who have done the ex- pedition, not on foot, but in chairs or kagoSf can take these convey- ances with them in the boat,, and can be carried most of the way home from Shin-yu. It is only necessary to walk ov^r the dan- gerous portion of the Ojigoku gorge. Instead of taking a boat, some may prefer to follow the path along the edge of the lake. The distances, if this extension be adopted, are stated to be :

Miyanoshita to : — Ri. Cho. M.

Ashinoyu 1 4 2f

Moto-Hakone 23 li

Hakone 12 |

Umijiri 1 18 3f

Ubago 12 I

Ojigoku 8 i

Miyanoshita 1 34 4f

Total 6 3 14f

The above distances are perhaps under-estimated.

10. Up nearly as far as Ashino- yu, thence sharp 1. for 30 cho down a steep and stony, but picturesque path, which passes through the vill. of Hata on the old Tokaido. The return to Miyanoshita is made vi& Yumoto, Tonosawa, and Ohiradai, up the old road — total distance, about 5i ri. The 30 cho descent from near Ashinoyu is called the Taki-zaka, that is, ' cascade hill/ on account of a pretty cascade seen to the r. about two-thirds of the way down.

11. To the top of the Otoine- toge, or ' Maiden's Pass,' distant 2^ ri (6 m.), whence can be gained the nearest and most complete view of Fuji and of the plain at its base. The path is not steep, excepting some 8 cho in the middle up a hill called the Usui-toge, and 11 cho at the end, which are almost like scaling a wall. It is possible, however, except for un-

usually heavy persons, to be carried the whole way in a chair. The path leads through Riga and Miya- gino, crosses the Hayakawa, and continues up the r. side of the valley to the vill. of

Sengoku^hara, noted for the cattle- farm, extensive for Japan, whence the Miyanoshita hotels are supplied with milk and butter.

[From Sengoku-hara, it is possible to ascend Kintoki-zan. The distance to the summit is estimated at 25 cho, and the climb is steep in some places. The people of the surrounding country-side ascend Kintoki- zan annually on the 17th day of the 3rd moon (old calendar), on which day the festival of I-no-hana (* the boar's nose ') is held on the summit. The name of the mountain is de- rived from that of Kintoki, a mighty hunter of legendary fame.]

The climb up the Otome-toge com- mences shortly after leaving Sen- goku-hara. The labour it entails is amply repaid by the glorious view from tbe summit. Persons with sufficient time and energy will do well to climb up the hill to the r., — we should rather say, up the hills, for three or four rise behind each other, and what looks like the affair of a few moments really takes the best part of half-an-hour to accomplish. From the top, straight ahead, are visible the snow-clad peaks of the granite mountains of Hida and Etchii. — ^To travel out to Miyanoshita via the Otome-toge is a pleasant alternative route for those who intend visiting this district a second time. Instead of alighting at Eozu, one continues in the train as far as the station of Gk>tem- ba, situated in the plain at Fuji's base. From Gotemba it is 2 rt to the top of the pass. The first por- tion of the way may be done by jinrikisha. Gotemba is also the

104

Route 6, — Miyanoshita and Hakone.

nearest station for travellers coming up the Tokaido fiailway from Kobe, bound for Miyanoshita. But if they have much luggage or object to walking, they should go on to Eozu, whence the facilities for proceeding to Miyanoshita are greater.

^ 12. To the Buddhist temple of 8ai]dji, sometimes called Doryo-san, distant 3 ri. Though placed last, this expedition is perhaps the most delightful of all ; for it alone in- cludes architectural beauties as well as beauties of nature. The path, after passing through Kiga and Miyagino and crossing the Hayakawa, leads up to a grassy plateau near the summit of Myo- jin-jja-take (not fco be confounded with the Myojo-ga-take of Walk No. 8). Tell the guide to lead to the spot, not far out of the way, whence may best be seen the superb view : — on the one hand, the sea with the plain of Sagami watered by the rivers Banyu and Sakawa, the mountain ranges of Oyama, Eurakake, Tanzawa, Sobu- tsu, Tagura-ga-take, and many of the mountains of Koshu; on the other, the wooded heights beyond the Hakone pass which dwarf the nearer ridge of Takanosu; then turning towards the r., double- ' crested Futago-yama, Koma-ga- take, Eammuri-ga-take, and the long ridge to the W. of Hakone which terminates in Eintoki-zan ; and above and beyond all, the gigantic cone of Fuji. From this point it is a descent, Saijoji being even lower down on the far side of the mountain than Miyanoshita is on the near. Before reaching it, the open moorland of the hillside is exchanged for a magnificent forest of pines and cryptomerias, with an undergrowth of beautiful flowering shrubs — deutzia, azalea, pyrus ja- ponica, aucuba, etc., according to the season.

The monastery of Saij5ji, which be- longs to the S5td sect of Buddhists, was

founded by a hermit named Ryoan, who died A.D. 1401 ; but it owee its special reputation for sanctity to his successor Dory6, who was supposed to be one of the numerous incarnations' of Kwannon, the Goddess of Mercy.

To Doryo's memory is dedicated the finest of all the shrines which collectively constitute Saijoji. It is called Myokwaku-do, and stands at the top of a flight of steps to the 1. The links of the chain which divides the staircase into two parts are often bound with scraps of paper, on which pilgrims have written their prayers. The fan of feathers, which forms so striking a feature of the ornamenta- tion, was Doryo's crest. The winged flgures with large noses represent goblins (tengu), who dwell in the mountains. Most of the large up- right stones of irregular shape in- scribed with characters in red or gold, which are scattered about the grounds, are memorials of persons who have at various times contri- buted towards the repairs of the temple. So is the hideous blue rail- ing, by which more modern piety has endeavoured to mar the perfect taste and beauty of the scene. It is generally most convenient to lunch at Saijoji alfresco in one of the more retired portions of the temple grounds.

Instead of returning to Miyano- shita the way one came, it is far better to arrange at the hotel, before starting, to have jinrikishas in waiting at the end of the stately avenue of cryptomerias leading from the temple down for 28 cho to the vill. of Sekimoto. After the fatigues of the walk, one can then bowl along pleasantly through the picturesque valley of the Sakawa- gawa, skirting Odawara, and thence proceeding up the new road to Tonosawa and Miyanoshita, either in the same jinrikisha or on foot. The total distance of the trip, as thus modified, is 10 n 25 cho (26 miles) ; but the 8 ri in jinrikisha from Sekimoto to Odawara, and

Hako7ie, Temple of Oongen.

105

the possibility of doing all the remainder of the way up to Miya- noshita by jinrikisha, prevent it from being too fatiguing. — It is also possible to take Saijoji on the way back from Miyanoshita to Yokohama, by joining the To- kaido Bailway at Maimda, the nearest station to the temple. The distance is estimated at between 2 and 3 ri. The way is passable for jinrikishas.

3. — Hakone and Neighbourhood.

Hakone is most quickly reached from Yokohama and Tokyo by the Tokaido Bailway as far as Kozu, thence by carriage or jinrikisha to Sammai-bashi, a hamlet close to Yumoto (the tram to Yumoto may therefore be taken, instead of a carriage or jinrikisha, if preferred), and from Sammai-bashi on foot or in hago along the old Tokaido up the Hakone pass vid Hata, the whole journey taking about 6 hrs. from Yokohama, or 7 hrs. from Tkoyo. But many residents pre- fer to travel vi& Miyanoshita where they spend the night, and then push on next morning by Walk No. 9 (see p. 101).

The respective merits of Hako- ne and Miyanoshita as summer resorts form a constant subject of debate between the partisans of the two places. Miyanoshita has the advantage of hot springs, a drier air, easier access, and hotels in European style. Hakone is cooler, being 1,000 ft. higher, it affords more privacy, and has a charming lake where one may bathe and boat and go on water picnics. In winter the advantage is altogether on Miyanoshita's side. No one thinks of staying at Hakone daring that season, whereas Miya- noshita is equally pleasant all the year round. Indeed, many prefer the winter there to the summer, as the air is almost always clear in winter, and walking consequently

more enjoyable. The chief inns at Hakone are the Haf u-ya, Yamaki-y a, and Ishi-uchi, all on the lake. But as nearly every house in the village is to let during the summer season, the plan usuaUy followed by fami- lies from Yokohama is to hire a separate residence by the month, bring their own servants with them, and set up housekeeping. Foreign furniture of a rough kind is generally obtainable, as also are fowls, vegetables, bread, and even milk and butcher's meat during the sununer season.

Some of the most enjoyable ex- peditions from Hakone are the same as those already described from Miyanoshita, — for instance, those to Ojigoku, to Ashinoyu and up Futago-yama, etc. The follow- ing may also be recommended : —

1. The Temple of Gongen. The way leads out of the N. end of the village, under an avenue of fine cryptomerias which here lines the Tokaido. A flight of steps will be seen r., leading to a small shed whence there is a charming view. The village formerly extended to this place. Here also stood the old barrier {Hdkone no seki) and guard-house, where all travellers were challenged and required to show their passports. The barrier was removed in 1871, but part of the stone-work stiU remains. Fol- lowing along the avenue, we soon come L to the Emperor's summer palace {Rikyu), not accessible to the public. The next point in the road is the Tsuji-ya inn, from which the best view of Fuji to be had anywhere on the shores of the lake is obtained. A little further on, we pass under a stone torii and enter Moto Hakone, a pleasant- looking little place, much fre- quented by students from Tokyo, but indifferent to foreign patroh- age. We then turn slightly to the 1., passing under a red torii, by the side of which stands a wooden

106

Route 6, — MiyanoshUa and Hakone.

ehed containing two iron rice- boilers said to have been used by Yoritomo on his huntinf^ expedi- tions. The road here skirts the lake, soon bringing ns to a charm- ing vista as we ascend to the foot of the steps leading to the temple. On the 1., half-way up the steps, is a small shrine dedicated to the Soga Brothers. The main temple, which also is small, contains votive pictures representing these Brothers, the Gods of Luck, Yoritomo's horse, etc. The walk back may be varied by taking a wide turning to the 1. about the middle of Moto Hakone, going up the stone steps nearly as far as the toWt, and then taking a turn to the 1. which is the Shindo, or New Boad, to Ashinoyu. . After following this for about | m., we strike a path to the r., which is the old road and leads to the Tokaido ; and so back to Hakone. The pass above the torii commands the view so often seen in photographs.

2. Walk to the End of the Lake.

— At the entrance to the avenue leading to the temple of Qongen, a path will be seen 1. lower down, by following which a walk of 5 m. can be taken to the baths of Shin-yu at Umijiri, the N. shore of the lake. The return may be agreeably varied by taking a boat the whole way back to Hakone, 1 hr. If this trip be reversed, the shadow of the large trees over- hanging the lake r., shortly before reaching Umijiri, affords a nice spot for a water picnic.

3. Along the Siiknmo-gawa. — This is a somewhat rough but pleas- ant walk, difficult to find without a guide. The stream is perpetually crossed and re-crossed, and some- times wading is unavoidable. The path finally leads out at the vill. of Hata, where kagos can be obtained for the return journey vid the Hakone Pass. At the beginning of the valley, a path to the r. leads

to Toshihama on the coast. It affords pretty peeps of Fuji and the lake ; but the high grass intercepts the view from the top.

4. Walks in the direction of A tain i. — Several pleasant walks can be taken in the direction of the Ten Province Pass and Atami, notably one up the slope of Okoma- yama and over Kazakoshi-yama, follo"\ving the boundary line of the provinces of Sagami and Izu to the highest point of the Tokaido, where, on a little plateau, the boundary post between these two provinces is placed; and back to Hakone by the Tokaido. While crossing the plateau, there is a fine view of the lake, the mountains surrounding it, and Fuji beyond, with to the S. the Bay of Suruga, the promontory of Izu, the towns dotting the Tokaido, Ashitaka- yama, and far away in the distance the Fujikawa like a silver streak, and still farther the long point of Omae-zaki stretching out into the ocean. Distance about 3^ m.

Another walk in the same gene- ral direction is past the pond called Numa-ga-ike, then over a little ridge separating it from another pond or swamp on the Suruga side, called Otama-ga-ike, and on up the mountain slope to a gap, where a turn to the 1. should be taken up through the grass to the survey post. The summit affords an ex- tensive view.

But of all walks in this direction, the most delightful is that to the Ten Province Pass (Jikkoku-toge or Higane-tdge). Those intending to picnic there should, however, remember to take water with them,' as none is to be obtained on the way. The climb is for the most part not steep, and the panorama from the summit, especially on a fine day in early winter, is some- thing never to be forgotten. The top of the ridge, which is marked by a stone known as the Ten Pro-

The Fukara and Nagao Passes,

107

vince Stone, looks down on the provinces of Izu, Suruga, Tot5mi, Koshu, Kotsuke, Musashi, Shimosa, Kazasa, Boshu, and Sagami. Bays, peninsulas, islands, mountain- ranges, lie spread out in entrancing variety of form and colour, Fuji towering up magnificently above all the rest. The distance from Hakone is locally estimated at 5 riy but mui^ be less, as it can easily be done in 2^ hrs.

[A steep descent of a little over 3 m. leads from the top down to Atami. There is also a path from the top to the hamlet of Izu-san^ distant 1 ri.']

6. Hiraliama on the lake. — A short walk may be taken from the Mishima end of the village to the foot of the Hakone Pass, where there is a path leading to the shore of the lake. After skirting the latter, it leads over a small hill to the next bay called Hira- hama. Should the water be too high, Hirahama may be reached by the track over Hatahiki-yama.

6. Umidaira. — This is the pla- teau rising above the S.W. shore of the lake, from which an exten- sive and beautiful view, embracing many of the points seen from the Ten Province Pass, is obtained. Time about 2 hrs. A track leads down through the grass to a little bay on the lake near the Hiraishi, or Flat Stone, whence Hakone can be easily reached by boat which should be ordered in advance.

7. The Subterranean Water- Course and the Fukara Pasfl. — The Fukara Pass is the most westerly of three that lead from the end of Lake Hakone to Fuji, the other two being the Nagao Pass and the Otome Pass, the latter already des- cribed on p. 103. The first stage on the way to all three from Hakone is by boat nearly to the end of the lake. Close to the spot on the shore where the ascent of the

Fukara Pass begins, is a tunnel (suirmm), through which a portion of the waters of the lake is carried to several villages on the other side of the mountain, serving to irrigate their rice-fields, and then flowing on to form the waterfalls of Sano. This subterranean chan- nel is said to be entirely artificial, the local account being that it was pierced by two brothers, who bored through the mountain from op- posite sides until they met in the middle. The walk up the pass takes .20 min. The exit of the tunnel (umi no ana) may be easily reached from the top of the pass, the whole expedition from the boat and back again taking about 2 hrs. There is some climbing and scram- bling to be done, but the paths are fairly good on the whole.

8. The Nagao Pass.— This lies 1 ri 7 cho from Umijiri. The way leads first across the Haya- kawa, the natural outlet of the lake, which later on flows past Miyanoshita; then along a broad level cinder path to the foot of the pass, and finally by an easy climb of 12i ^o to the top. The gap at the summit of the pass com- mands a complete view of Fuji from base to peak. On looking back, the eye sweeps across the plain of Sengoku-hara and over the waters of Hakone Lake. Kammuri-ga-take is also seen to advantage, and on its slope can be distinctly traced the sol- fataras of Ojigoku. A more exten- sive and beautiful view is had, how- ever, by ascending the hill to the 1. of the pass. From this summit, not only Fuji, but the promontory of Izu, with Amagi-san, the whole of the fertile plain stretching away to the r. of the town of Mishima, the rugged peaks of Ashitaka, the course of the Fujikawa, the pro- montory of Mio-no-Matsubara, Ku- no-zan, and the full sweep of Suruga Bay lie at the spectator's feet.

108

RoiUe 7. — The Peninsula of Izu,

BOUTE 7.

The Peninsula op Izu.

1. atami and neighbourhood.

2. hakonb to 8huzenji and

8himoda. 3. shimoda to atami

by the coast. 4. tu-ga-shima

TO ATAMI.

1. — At AMI AND Nbighboubhood.

Atami (Higuchi Hotel, foreign style) is a favourite winter resort of the Japanese nobility and higher official class, as it is protected by high hills from the northerly and westerly winds which prevail at that season over Japan. The whole stretch of coast from Kdzu on the Tokaido Railway to Atami partakes more or less of the same advantage ; and the soft air, the orange-groves, and the deep blue sea of Odawara Bay, combine to make of this dis- trict the Eiviera of Japan.

Atami is most easily reached from Yokohama by the Tokaido Railway as far as Kozu, 1^ hr., and then by jinrikisha for the rest of the way, nearly 5 hrs. along the coast.

_ Itinerary.

KOZU to :— Ri. Cho. M.

Odawara 1 28 4^

Hayakawa 10 f

Nebukawa 1 20 3f

Enoura 1 12 3|

Yoshihama 1 32 4i

Izu-san 2 12 5|

ATAMI 18 U

Total 9 24 23i

The road is delightfully pictur- esque and representatively Japa- nese, leading first under an ancient avenue most of the way to Oda- wara, and thence up and down along the coast, with ever-changing views of sea and land and of Yries Island smoking in the distance. The little peninsula whose neck is crossed about half-way is called Cape Manazuru.

Travellers approaching Atami from the Kyoto side may find it a convenient saving of time to aUght at Numazu station, and thence to proceed to Atami over the hills, — a pretty walk of about 5 hrs. ; road practicable also, except after heavy rain, for jinrikishas with two men. The distance is estimated at 7 ri. From the town of Mishima to Atami is about the same.^ During most of the ascent, a fine near view is obtained of Fuji, with to the 1. Amagi-san and the lower ranges of the peninsula of Izu, and in front the Bay of Numazu at Fuji's base. The view from the top of the ridge is some^^hat dis- appointing.

A third way, much to be recom- mended to good walkers, is that from Miyanoshita via Ashinoyu to Hakone (see p. 101), and thence over the hiUs by the Ten Province Pass (see p. 106) with its incom- parable view. The ascent is not very steep, but the descent on the Atami side is short and abrupt. The total distance from Miyano- shita to Atami by this way is be- tween 6 And 7 ri.

Fourthly and lastly, Atami may be reached by small steamer from Kozu, touching at Odawara an<l Manazuru. It is possible that some eccentric persons may prefer this means of approaching it.

The curiosity for which Atami is noted is its geyser (O-yw), which breaks out once in every four hours in the middle of the town. It ori- ginally shot straight up into the air, but is now partially enclosed, and an inhalation house {Kyuki- kwan) has been erected by the au- thorities for patients suffering from affections of the throat and lungs, the salt in which the steam of the geyser is rich being benefi- cial in such cases. The elegant house close behind the Kyuki- kwan, on the other side of the small creek which flows through the town, is a villa formerly belonging

Atami and Neighbourhood.

109

to the millionaire, Mr. Iwaeaki, and now the property of His Imperial Highness, the Crown Prince. The cHief productions of Atami are a beautifully delicate kind of paper, called gampishi, literally 'wild- goose skin paper/ and a delicious and wholesome sweatmeat called ame, which is made of rice or millet.

The best walks near Atami are : —

1. To the grove of Kinomiya, a few minutes' distance from the hotel. At the far-end of this grove, are some of the finest camphor- trees (kusunoki) in Japan.

2. To Uomi, the hut visible high up on the cliff which shuts in Atami Bay to the S. It is a steep walk of some 20 min., but the lovely view from the top amply repays all trouble. The name Uo- mi, lit. 'fish-outlook,' refers to the use to which this post of ob^ eervation is put. When a school of bonitoe is expected — and they frequently visit the bay in enor- mous numbers — a man stands on this eminence, whence he can clearly see down to a great depth in the water, and make signs to the fishermen below, indicafing to them the direction in which it will behest to turn.

3. To the hot springs of Izn-san, \ ri. They are situated on the rock below the highway, in a man- ner resembling swallows' nests.

4. To Baienji, a pretty park. This is a pleasant level walk of less than 1 ri,

6. To Tosawa, i hr. climb half- way up Higane-san to a beautiful grove of t^ees. There one may torn to the r., and return by way of the vill. of Izu-san. (This is not below the highway, as are the hot springs of Izu-san, mentioned in No. 3.)

6. To the little port of AJiro {Inn, Tabako-ya), a steep but very pretty walk over the hills, return- ing, if preferred, by boat. The walk takes about 2i hrs., the return

by sea less. Ajiro, which lies at the S. end of a beautiful bay, can also be reached from Atami by small coasting steamer.

The following all day expeditions may be recommended : —

7. The climb up Higane-san, and the return down a steep narrow gorge r. from the temple there to the hot springs of Tugawarai thence back (by jinrikisha, if pre- ferred) vi& Yoshihama on the Atami main road.

8. By boat to Ito (Wada), 6 ri down the coast, and thence viA the baths of Shishido (Matsubara), where a guide should be procured, to Omuro-»an, an extinct volcano much resembling Fuji in shape, and therefore often called by the country folk Fuji no Imoto, * Fuji's Younger Sister,' or Sengen-yama (Sengen is an alternative name of the Goddess of Fuji). About 1^ hr. is required to wa]k from Shishido to the base, which is half-way be- tween the hamlets of Ikemura and Totari ; thfence it is 20 min. more to the summit, from which there is a fine panorama. The crater is about 250 yds. in diameter, and some 80 ft. deep. The bottom is covered with scattered blocks of lava. To the E. of this volcano stands another smaller one called Komwro-zan,

2. — From Hakonb to the Hot Springs of Shuzenji and over Amaqi-san to the Port op Shimoda in Izit.

Itinerary,

HAKONEto:— Bi. Cho. M.

Mishima 8 21 8f

Ohito 3 32 9i

Uryuno 6 i

SHUZENJI 26 If

Yu-ga-shima ... 3 18 8^

Nashimoto 4 32 12

SHIMODA 4 34 12

Total 21 24 52f

110

Route 7. — The Penmsula of Izu.

This is a two or three days' trip, which should be arranged in such fashion as to sleep the first night at Shuzenji, the second at Shi- moda ; or else the second set Yu-ga- shima, and the third at Shimoda. It is possible to go in jinrikishas from Mishima to Shuzenji, and again a short way out of Shimoda. But take it altogether, the road is very hilly, and scarcely to be re- commended except to pedestrians, who will find it replete with natural beauty.

The first stage, as far as Mishi- ma, takes the traveller along the old roughly paved Tokaido, which, soon af^r leaving Hakone, rises to a height of 2,970 ft. above the sea, and then again descends. About half-way down is a vantage-point 1., commanding a fine view of the country E. of Numazu. The river Kanogawa is here seen wiuding between groups of hills, beyond which rises the bolder mass of Amagi-san. From

Mishima (Inns, Sekoroku, Saga- mi-ya) to a vill. called Daiba, the road crosses a plain near the head of the Gulf of Suruga. . At Daiba it turns up the valley of the Kano- gawa, passing through the hamlet of Ho jo, noted in history as the birthplace of the founder of the great Hojo family, who, during the 13th century and a portion of the 14th, ruled Japan as 'Eegents' (Shikken) in the name of the * Puppet Shoguns ' of Kamakura. The scenery the whole way up the valley is extremely pretty, includ- ing, on turning back, most charm- ing views of Fuji. A striking object on the road is the overhang- ing rock called Jbyama, which is seen to the r. beyond Hojo. The pref ectural road, which has hitherto been followed, is abandoned a short way out of Oliito for the path up the 1. bank of the Katsura-gawa leading to

Shuzenji (Inn, *Arai-ya). De- lightfully situated in a secluded

valley, this place is resorted to on account of the mineral spring which spurts up in the middle of the streajn forming, if one may so say, the village high street, and which thus allows the bathers to enjoy a hot and a cold bath at the same time, according as they incline their bodies a little more to one side or to the other. The water is also led into the inns by means of pipes. A little more than i ri after leaving Shuzenji, the traveller should tell the guide to lead him a couple of chd off the main road to visit the Aaahi-no-taki, a cascade of about 100 ft. in height, which tumbles down over the rocks, forming a series of four or ^ve falls. All this neighbourhood is full of hot springs, those of 8eko^no-taki being the most notable off the main road (8 chO from Yu-ga-shima, and very picturesquely situated). On the main roskd are those of

Tu-ga-stlimii (Inn, Yumoto-ya, poor), in whose vicinity — the dis- tance is some 30 chd — is the pretty cascade of Joren-taki, formed by the waters of the Kanogawa fall- ing over a precipice 60 ft. high. The • 3i ri separating Yu-ga-shima from Nashiinoto are occupied by the ascent and descent of the Amagi-toge, which is not steep for most of the way, as the path does not lead over the highest part of Amagi-San. Amagi-San, it should be mentioned, is the general name given to the whole mountain mass stretching across the promon- tory of Izu from E. to W., the loftiest summit of which is called Banjiro. Beyond Nashimoto the road crosses the Konabe-toge, a climb of 18 chd, and after passing Mitsukuri, descends a pictui'esque valley, well-cultivated and irrigated by the waters of the Nozugawa, a stream which flows into the har- bour of Shimoda, and which from the hamlet of Hongo is navigable for fiat-bottomed boats. The country

Route 8. — Viies Island,

111

all around is beautifully diversified, and the soil carefully cultivated, every hill being laid out in a series of terraces planted with rice and barley. Near Hongo stands the small hamlet of Bendaiji, noted for its hot mineral springs. The accom- modation, however, is poor. Fur- ther on, the valley widens till it forms an open extensive plain before reaching

Shimoda (Intis, Awaman^^ro, Ma- tsumoto-ya), a compactly built and regularly laid-out town, situated on the banks of the Nozugawa. The situation of Shimoda is such as to command a healthy climate, owing to the dryness of the soil and the fresh sea-breezes. The harbour, though small, is safe and convenient. There is also an inner anchorage for small junks and boats, which is connected with the Nozugawa. It is artificially con- structed by means of dykes and a breakwater. Shimoda exports most of the stone used for the new buildings in Tokyo. The stone comes from extensive quarries, or rather mines, near the vill. of Kisami, which will repay a visit.

Shimoda was'flrst visited in 1864 by Com- modore Perry and the ships of the United States sqaadron. By the treaty which he concluded, it was constituted an Open Port for American shipping; and here Mr. HarriB, the American Minister, resided until the substitution of Kaaagawa as a trading port in 1859.

The easiest way te quit Shimoda is by small steamer te Atami.

3. — Shimoda to Atami by the Coast.

It is also possible to complete the round of the peninsula of Izu by following the path which skirts the coast. This journey, though fatiguing, is extremely pretty, and is quite off the beaten track. The path continually winds up and down the cliffs along the sea-shore, passing a succession of picturesque nooks and bays. The itinerary is as foUoivs:

SHIMODA te :— Ri. Chd. M.

Hama (hot spring)... 1 28 4^

Inatori 4 10 loj

Yawatano 8 29 9i

Ite (Wada) 3 10 8

Usami 1 10 3

Ajiro 2 — 5

ATAMI 2 18 6

Total 18 33 46

From Atami te Kozu on the To- kaido Railway by the itinerary (reversed) given at the beginning of this route.

4.— From Yu-ga-shima to Atami.

This walk from the centre of the peninsula te the coast offers superb views. The itinerary is as follows :

YTJ-OA-SHIMAte:— J2i. Chd. M,

Nagano — 20 1^

Harab5 2 — 5

Hiekawa 1 19 3f

Ito (Wada) 2—5

ATAMI 5 28 14

Total 11 31 29

ROUTE 8.

Vkies Island.

Tries Island, called Izu no Oshima

by the Japanese, is the largest and

most accessible of the Igu no Shichi-

to, or 'Seven Isles of Izu,' which

streteh away for over 100 miles in

a southerly direction from near

the entrance of Tokyo Bay te 33°

lat. N. The ever-smoking volcano

on Yries Island is sighted by all

ships bound for Yokohama.

In ancient days Eastern Japan, then semi-barbarous, was used as a place of banishment for criminals expelled from the Central part of the Empire,— Nara, Kyoto, and their environs, where the Mikado held his Court. When the main- land of E. Japan became settled, the

112

Boute 8, — Tries Island,

islands alone continued to be used as con- vict settlements, and they retained this character till quite recent times. There were exiles living on Yries as late as the end of the 18th centuiy. On English charts, Hachijo (misspelt Fatsisio), the southernmost of the group, is sometimes stated to be 'a place of exile for the grandees of Japan.' But it is a mistake to suppose that Hachijo was peculiar in this respect, or that ' grandees ' were the only class of persons transported thither. The most noted of the many exiles to Yries was the famous archer Tametomo, who was banished there in 1166, and whose prowess forms a favourite subject with Japanese romance writers and artists. His picture may be seen on the bock of some of the Japanese bank-notes. The current English name of Yries Island is derived from that of Captain Martin Grerritsz Yries, a Dutch navigator who discovered it in 1648. Yries Island was noted until recent years for its peculiar dialect and for the retention of curious old customs. But few remnants of these now survive, excepting the coiffure of the women and their habit of carrying loads on the head.

Vries Island has no regnlar and but little irregular steam commu- nication with the outer world. The best way to reach it is by fishing- boat from Misaki (see p. 60), whence the fare with 5 sailors should be about 10 yen. The wea- ther being favourable, any point on the coast of the island may be reached in from 6 to 8 hrs. The island may also be reached from Shimoda or Ajiro in Izu, or by junk from Reigan-jima, Tokyo. The native craft cannot, however, be recommended to any persons un- acquainted with the language or unaccustomed to Japanese ways ; and the many delays and dis- appointments caused by the un- certainty of the communication with the mainland are hardly counterbalanced, except to the investigator of volcanic phenomena, by such interest as the island possesses. The best season for the trip is the early spring, the next being the winter.

There are six villages on the island, all situated on the coast, and named respectively Motomura (more correctly Niijima), Nomashi^

Sashikiji, Habu, Senzu, and Okada. Of these Motomura is the best to stop at, whilst Habu has the ad- vantage of possessing a small har- bour— the crater of an ancient submerged volcano — ^and is there- fore the easiest to take ship from when departing. There are no inns on Yries Island, excepting a poor one at Motomura ; but accommodation can be obtained at the house of the Narnuhi (Headman) of each village. The distances along the road or path connecting the villages are approximately as follows (the es- timate is that g^ven by the local officials, and seems to be a rather liberal one) : —

Ri. Cho, M.

SenzutoOkada 1 — 2^

Okada to Motomura ... 2 — 5

Motomura to Nomashi... 1 — 2^

Nomashi to Sashikiji ... 3 — 7^

Sashikiji to Habu — 19 U

For the most part the road runs at some distance from the coast, which it only rejoins on nearing the villages ; and there are also a number of paths in all directions used by the inhabitants for bring- ing down fire-wood from the hill- sides. Usually the way Hes through a low wood of camellia, skimmia, and other evergreens, and sometimes, as for instance between Motomura and Nomashi, along a charming fern-clad dell. Pheasants are abundant.

There is no road round the E. coast from Habu to Senzu, but the distance is approximately 6 ri, and the way leads over the desolate slope of the volcano by which the whole centre of the island is occu- pied. The name of the volcano is Mihara, 2,500 ft. high. From its summit smoke perpetually issues, and it is subject to frequent erup- tions. The nearest point on the coast to the summit of the mountain is Nomashi, but the ascent may be made equally well from Motomura.

The climb requires only 2 hrs..

Volcano of Mihara,

118

and the whole expedition, includ- in^ stoppages, can easily be made during a forenoon. Passing through the village, the ascent, as made from Motomura, leads for the first hour through the wood, and then emerges on to volcanic scorise, where nothing grows but small tufts of grass and dwarf alder. The eminence seen ahead to tlie 1. and called Kagan^-bata is not the summit of the mountain, but only a portion of the waU of an immense ancient crater, in the midst of which stands the present cone^ with its much smaller though still considerable dimensions. From this point it is a five minutes' walk to the lip of the ancient crater, which here forms a flat oval waste of minute scorisB, with stones scattered here and there. Its greatest length on this side is esti- mated at nearly a mile, and it is surrounded by low broken hillocks of lava^ against whose sides the sand is pHed up. Half an hour's walk across this desolate waste, where not even a blade of grass is to be seen, brings us to the little torii marking the Nomashi approach to the mountain, and forming the limit beyond which women are not allowed to proceed. From this point there is a fine view. In front, and most conspicuous of all, are the other islands and islets of the group, the curious pyramidal TosMma, with Shikine and K5zu behind; to the 1. of Toshima the longer and lower outline of Niijima, with little Udoma in front. To the 1. again, but considerably more dis- tajit, are the larger islands of Miyake and Mikura, while on exceptionally clear days the outline of Hachijo — so at least it is asserted — can be descried. To the W. are seen Amagi-san and other portions of the peninsula of Izu, the towering cone of_Fuji, with the lesser Hakone and Oyama ranges ; to the N. Misaki in Sagami, and to the N.E. the outline of the peninsula

of Boshu, which shuts in Tokyo Bay from the open Pacific. The cHmb hence up to the top of the mountain takes ^ hr.

Mihara may also be ascended from Habu or from Senzu, the climb on that side of the island being, however, much longer and more difficult.

Excepting the ascent of the volcano, there are few walks in the island deserving of mention. The collector of ferns will, however, find numerous and beautiful species, not only between Motomura and Nomashi, but also at a place called Bdzvrga-Hora, i.e., the Priest's Dell, about 1 m. out of Habu in the direction of Senzu. A spare day at Habu may also be devoted to walk- ing along the coast towards Senzu ; but the vapoinr spring situated on the mountain-side between the two places, of which the visitor will be told by the natives, is at a distance — 5 ri — which makes it difficult of access in one day, on account of the arduous nature of the ground ; and there is not even a shed in which to take shelter from the weather. It is resorted to in cases of wounds and bruises, the friends of the sick person erecting some temporary cover. Futago-yama, the double* crested mountain, whose red hue, caused by the presence of brittle lava of that colour, is so conspicuous from Habu, is a mere spur of the volcano, and has no special in- terest.

114

Eoute 9, — Fnji and yeighhourliood.

ROUTE 9. Ftjji and Neighboubhood.

\, genebal in70buation. 2. as- cent fbom gotekba station. 3. ascent fbom htjbayama. 4. ascent fbom st7ba8hibi. 6. as- cent fbom toshiba. 6. ascent fbom hito-ana. 7. ascent fbom sttyama. 8. summit of fuji. 9. cibcuit of fuji half-wat up. 10. cibcuit of the base, cave of hito-ana, kami-ide watebfall8.

1. — Gbnebal Infobmation.

Time. Mere hurried ascent of Fuji and back to Yokohama, 1 day and 1 night ; including circuit of base, 3 to 4 days.

The pleasantest plan is to com- bine the ascent of Fuji with a visit to the Miyanoshita-Hakone dis- trict, giving at least a week to the entire trip, and climbing the mountain during whichever por- tion of that time seems to promise the most settled weather. The ascent can only be made between (approximately) the 15th July and 10th September, the huts to ac- commodate pilgrims being closed during the rest of the year. The best time is from the 25th July to the 10th August.

The best way to reach Fuji from Yokohama is to take the Tokaido Railway as far as Gotemba Sta- tion, 3 hrs., where guides and horses can be engaged, and rough quilts and charcoal to ward off the cold air at night in the huts on the mountain top can be procured. The traveller should bring his own food. Persons coming up the To- kaid5 from the direction of Kobe and Kyoto should alight either at Iwabuchi or at Suzukawa (see Route 38), and ascend from Mura- yama. Those coming from Kofu will ascend from Yoshida. It is also possible to ascend Fuji from

Subashiri on the E. side, which indeed was the favourite route be- fore the opening of the railway, and is still adopted by many ; also from Suyanuk, S. £., and Hito-ana, S. W. ; but these last two have nothing special to recommend them. Details of the ascent from Gotem- ba Station, etc., are given below. Numbers of travellers prefer to reach. Fuji from Miyanoshita or Hakone, by walking to Gotemba Station over the Otome-toge (see p, 103). In this case they can provide themselves with all necessaries at one of the Miyanoshita hotels. It is always advisable to take plenty of warm clothing, as the tempera- ture falls below freezing point at night on the summit of the moun- tain even during the hottest period of summer. It is also advisable to take an extra supply of food, as pai'ties have occasionally been detained on the mountain side by stress of weather, unable either to reach the summit or to descend to the base. It is possible, by sleeping at Gotemba Station or at Mura- yama, and starting at dawn, to ascend to the summit and descend again in a single day (in local Japa- nese parlance hi-yamay that' is * day-mountain*). Counting the working day as having 15 hrs. (4 A.M. to 7 P.M.), this would allow 11 hrs. for the ascent, including short stoppages, 1 hr. at the top, alid 3 hrs. for the descent. The shortest time in which the ascent and des- cent have been known to be made, is 11 hrs. 37 min., including all stoppages ; 6 hrs. 27 min. was the actual time of ascent, and 2 hrs. 2 min. that of descent. But persons less desirous of * breaking the re- cord' than of really seeing what they have come so far to see, are strongly urged to pursue the follow- ing course: — Cleave Gotemba Sta- tion or Murayama before daylight — say at 2 a.m. — ^thus providing the chance of a good sunrise on the way up. After sunrise, do the

General Information,

115

rest of the ascent slowly, reaching the summit about midday. Having establishing himself in one of the huts on the summit, the traveller should go down into the crater, make the round of the crater, and spend the night at the top. This will afford the chance of a sunset and of a second sunrise, after which the descent can be at once begun. The descent will take most people from 4^ to 5 hrs. The great advantage of this plan is that it multiplies the chances of a good view from the summit, — such views being much more often obtained at sun- rise and sunset than in the middle of the day/ and being by no means certain at any time.

Ajyropoa of views, may be men- tioned the Japanese term Fvji-mi ju-san-shii, that is, the Thirteen Provinces from which Fuji is visible. These are Musashi, Bd- shu, Kazusa, Shimosa, Hitachi, Shimotsuke, Eotsuke, Shinshu, Koshu, Totomi, Suruga, Izu, and Sagami. The map of these pro- vinces is an excellent specimen of old-fashioned Japanese carto- graphy. A very slight acquaintance with the written characters will make it one of the most useful maps to travel with.

Fuji is much more easily ascend- ed than many mountains far in- ferior in height, as it presents no obstacles in the shape of rocks or undergrowth. The first 6,000 ft. of the ascent can moreover be performed on horseback, after which the accomplishment of the remainder is merely a question of steady perseverance. The distance to the summit from the point called Uma-gaeshi, is unequally divided into ten parts called go (the unit being oddly enough a shd, which is a measure of capacity containing about 1^ quarts), which are subdivided in some cases into halves called go-shaku. The first station is thus ichi-gd-me, the second ni-go-me, and so on, the last before

the summit is reached being ku-go- me, or No. 9. One explanation given by the Japanese of this pecu- liar method of calculation is that the mountain resembles in shape a heap of dry rice poured out of a measure, and that consequently its subdivisions must correspond to the fractions of the latter. How- ever this may be, the go is used as a division of distance in other parts of Japan, especially in Satsu- ma. At most of these stations, as as also at the top, are huts where accommodation for the night, boiled rice, and water can be obtained.

The number of coolies required wiU of course depend on the amount of baggage to be carried. When ladies are making the ascent, it is advisable to have a spare man or two or help them when tired. Stout gaiters are recommended to be worn during the descent, to prevent sand and ashes from get- ting inside the boots.

Fuji, often called Fuji-tan^ that is * Mount Fuji,' and by the poets Fuji-no- yama, that is ' the Mountain of Fuji,' whence the form Fusiyama often used by Europeans, stands between the provinces of Suruga and Koshtl, and is the highest, the most beautiful, and the most famous mountain in Japan. The. height of Ken- ga-mine, its loftiest peak, has been vari- ously estimated at 12,234 ft. (£[nipping) ; 12,341 ft. (Chaplin) J 12,360 ft. (Favre- Brandt) ; 12,366 ft. (Stewart) ; 12,400— 12,460 (Milne) ; 12,4.S7 ft, (Rein).

Though now quiescent, Fuji must still be accounted a volcano. Frequent men- tion is made in Japanese literature of the smoke of Fuji, which, if the expressions used by poets may be taken as indicating facts, must have formed a constant feature in the landscape at least as late as the 14th century. A hundred years earlier it seems, however, to have been already less violent than the discharge from Asama- yama in Shinshtl. An author who flou- rished about the end of the 9th century saj7S : * There is a level space at the sum- mit, about one ri square, having a depres- sion in the centre shaped like a cauldron, at the bottom of which is a pond. This cauldron is usually filled with vapour of a pure green (or blue) colour, and the bot- tom appears like boiling water. The steam is visible at a great distance from the mountain. In 967 a small mountain was formed at the eastern base of Fuji.' This was probably the small hump called

116

Route P. — Fuji and Neighbourhood,

Ko-Fuji, on the r. of the second station on the Suyama ascent. A traveller's journal of the year 1021 speaks of smoke rising from the slightly flattened summit, while at night fire was seen to issue from the crater. Even at the present day, small quantities of steam continue to issue through the ashes on the E. or Subashiri Bide ot the mountain, just outside the lip of the crater.

Fuji stands by itself, rising with one majestic sweep from a plain almost surrounded by mountains. The S. side slopes right down to the sea, its outline being broken only on the S.E. by the rugged peaks of Ashitaka-yama. On the N. and W. rise steep granite Ganges, stretching away from the Misaka-toge nearly to the junction of the Shiba-kawa with the Fuji- kawa. Against these mountains the showers of ashes which were ejected from the crater have piled themselves up, and confined in their separate basins the waters of the Motosu, Shoji, and other lakes. The E. side is shut in by volcanic mountains of undetermined origin, beginning near Subashiri, and ex- tending southwards into the penin- sula of Izu. Among them lie Lake Hakone, with the numerous hot springs of Miyanoshita, Ashino- yu, Atami, and their neighbour- hood. The base of the mountain is cultivated up to a height of about 1,500 ft., above which spreads a wide grassy moorland to 4,000 ft., where the forest commences. The upper limit of this varies consider- ably, being lowest on the E. side, namely, about 5,500 ft. on the ascent from Suyama, and 7,900 on the Murayama side. But on the W. face, between the Yoshida and Murayama ascents, and looking down over the plain round Hito- ana, it must erfcend as high as 9,000 ft. or more. This difference is no doubt due in a great measure to the comparatively recent dis- turbance on the S.E. side, which caused the present conformation of Hoei-zan, when the greater part of the ashes thrown out fell in the

direction of Suyama, destroying the forest, and leaving a desert waste which only a long lapse of years can again cover with vegetation. To the same cause, namely, com- paratively recent volcanic action, must be ascribed the almost entire absence of those Alpine plants which abound on the summits of other high mountains in the neigh- bourhood, such as Ontake, Shirane in Koshii, and Yatsu-ga-take. Above the forest lies a narrow zone of bushes, chiefly dwarfed larch. A few species of hardy plants are found up to a height of 10,000 ft. on some parts of the cone.

2. — Ascent fbom Gotemba Station. Gotemba Station (Inn, Yoshiji-

ma-ya) is 12 cho from the vill. of Gotemba; and there is no longer any necessity for going to the latter and thence on to Subashiri, as was the general practice in pre- railway times, there being now a direct and shorter way up the mountain from the Station by what is called the Nakabata route, avoiding both those villages. If the traveller intends to spend the night at Gotemba Station, he should try to arrive early, so as to avoid difficulty in obtaining accom- modation at the inn. In order to economise one's strength, it is advisable to take horses for the first 2i hrs. of the ascent across an open and gently rising country. This takes one beyond Uma-gae- shi, where horses are supposed to be left, to Tarobo (also called Ko- mitake), where they mibst be left.*

At Tarobo (so-called from a goblin who is there worshipped), staves are sold to help climbers on their way up. These staves are eng^raved with the name of the

* Uma-ffoeshi, lit. * horse send back,* ia the general name for that point on a mountain beyond which it is impossible to ride.

Ascent from Viwiotis Sides'.

117

mountain, and can have a further inscription added by the priests who dwell inside the crater.

Though Fuji, as already stated, is theoretically divided on all its sides into ten parts, some of the stations no longer exist in practice — that is, have no rest- huts — while others are subdivided. On the Gotemba ascent, only sta- tions 2i, 3, 4, 6, 7, 8, and 10 (the top) exist. Nos. 3 and 4 (san-go and shi-go) are the best, and No. 6 (roku-go) is fair. This should be borne in mind, in case of its being necessary to call a halt for the night midway.

From No. 2^ to 3 the path skirts Hoei-zan, where that from Suyama joins in 1., and the steep portion of the ascent begins. Above No. 7 the climb becomes more fatiguing still, being now over loose cinders. . Above No. 8, patches of snow will probably be found in rifts in the lava rock ; but there are nowhere any actual snow-fields to be tra- versed. At No. 10 — ^the tcfp — there are three stone huts, fairly roomy and comfortable. Should they all be occupied by pilgrims, the travel- ler must walk round to the huts on the Subashiri side of the lip of the crater, only a couple of hundred yards distant.

The descent as far as No. 7 is the same as the ascent. At No. 7, it diverges to the r. down a glissade (Jap. hashiri) of loose sand, over which one may skim at such a rate as to reach No. 2^ in less than 1 hr. From Tarobo onwards, the descent will occupy nearly as much time as was required for the as- cent. The entire journey down from the summit to Gotemba Station can be accompHshed in 4 hrs.

3. — Ascent, from Mubayaha.

From Marayama (Inn, by Fuji Soshiro) to the Uma-gaeshi, or riding limit on this side of the mountain, is a distance of 3 ri 8 chd.

Thence onward it is necessary to walk. Of the various stations. No. 5 is the most to be recommended, though all are fair, the ascent from Murayama having long been that most patronised by the native pilgrims, and therefore styled the Omote-guclii, or ' Front Entrance,' to the mountain.

4.— ASGENT FROM SUBASHIRI.

At Subashiri, the inn generally patronised by foreigners is Yone- yama. Yamada-ya also is fair. The road to the Uma-gcbeshi on this side leads for 2 ri up a broad avenue through the forest, whence it is another 2 ri to a place called Chujiki-ba, where a halt for re- freshments is generally made. This is 8 chd below station No. 1. The best stations are 49, 6, and especi- ally No. 8. At No. 9 is a small shrine known as Mukai Sengen, that is ' the Goddess of Fuji's Welcome,' intimating to the weary wayfarer that he is nearly approaching the goddess's sanctum.

5. — Ascent from Yoshida.

Tosh id a is an unusually long village, divided into an upper por- tion (Kami Yoshida) and a lower portion (Shimo Yoshida). From Kami Yoshida (Inn, Kogiku) the way" to Uma-gcieshi, the 2nd sta- tion, as far as which it is possible to ride, lies up an avenue. The upper edge of the forest is not quitted till No. 5 is reached. Thus the view on the way up is less good by this route than on the Gotemba and Murayama sides.

6. — Ascent from Hito-ana.

The ascent from Hito-ana (Inn, Akaike Keikichi) is laborious, and the view much spoilt by the dense forest through which the track lies. It is therefore not recommended. Travellers wishing to visit the beautiful waterfalls of Kami-ide (see p. 121) might, how-

118

Route 9. — Fwji mid Neighbourhood.

ever, find it worth their while to descend on this side. If their lug- gage is light, they can take it with them over the mountain. If not, they must allow plenty of time for sending it round the base.

7. — Ascent prom Sutama.

This is an alternative way for persons staying at Hakone, who can reach Suyama vik the Lake and the Fukara Pass in 6 to 8 hrs. Coolies for the whole trip, includ- ing the ascent of Fuji, should be engaged at Hakone, as the re- sources of Suyama are limited, though there is a tea-house (Wa- tanabe Hideo). But the ascent from Gotemba Station is to be preferred. The path up Fuji from Suyama joins the path up from Gotemba at station No. 3.

8. — Summit op Fuji.

The summit of the mountain consists of a series of peaks sur- rounding the crater, the diameter of which is not far short of 2,000 ft. The descent into it, down the loose talus of rock and cinders close to the huts at the top of the Murayama ascent, is quite easy; still it is advisable to take a guide. The bottom is reached in 20 min. The floor, which is formed of cinders, inclines slightly from W. to E., and is intersected by small stream-beds, which at the E. end terminate among the loosely piled lava masses forming the core of the mountain. All round, except where the descent is made, rise precipi- tous rocky walls, from which large pieces detach themselves from time to time with a loudxjrackling sound like musketry. On the W. side, immediately under Ken-ga-mine, there is usually a large snow-slope. The depth has been variously cal- culatedat 416 ft., 548 ft., and 584 ft. The return to the edge will take about 25 min.

Before dawn the pilgrims betake

themselves to Ken-ga-mine, the peak on the W. of the crater, and the true summit of the moun- tain, to await the sun's rising. As the luminary approaches the hori- zon and all the clouds about it glow with the most brilliant hues of red flame, the feeling of longing expectation seems almost to over- come them; but as soon as the burniner disc appears, they greet it devoutly, rubbing their chapleta between their hands and muttering prayers to the great deity.

Ken-ga-mine commands a mar- vellously extensive view. To the S. stretches the Gulf of Suruga, shut in on the E. by the lofty promontory of Izu, and confined on the W. by Miozaki at the termi- nation of the long range divid- ing the valley of the Abekawa from that of the Fujikawa. S.W. is the broad pebbly bed of the Fujikawa, its course above the point where it crosses the Tokaido being hidden by the lower hills. Westwards are seen all the lofty peaks of the border range of Koshii and Shin- shii, beginning with the angular granite obelisk of Koma-ga-take and its lesser neighbours Jizo and Ho-o-zan, then the three summits of Shirane, known as Kaigane, Ai- no-take, and Nodori, the Koma-ga- take of Shinshii rising between the Tenryu-gawa and Kisogawa, and so on to Ena-san in Mino and the top of Shichimen-zan near Minobu. Further to the r., ex- tending northwards, comes the great range dividing far-off Hida from Shinshu, amongst whose peaks may be distinguished Nori- kura, Yari-ga-take, and, further remote iv Etchu, the volcanic summits of Tateyama. Gradually moving E. again, along the north- ern horizon, we distinguish the mountains near Nagano, — Ken-no- mine and the extinct volcano of My5ko-zan. Nearer in the fore- ground rise the numerous sum- mits of Yatsu-ga-take; and then

Stmnnit of Fuji,

119

glancing further N., we perceive Asama-yama's smoking crater, the mountains about the Mikuni Pass, and next all the Nikko mountains, Shirane, Nantai-zan, and lesser peaks. E. of Yatsu-ga-take is seen Kimpu-zan, easily known by its rounded shoulder and the pUlar of rocks at the summit ; then Yakushi and Mitsiunine in Chichibu, till the eye loses itself in a confusion of lower ridges. On the E. side of the crater, from almost any point that may be chosen, the eye rests on a prospect less extensive indeed, but surpassing this in beauty. Far away across the plain, is distinctly visible the double top of Tsukuba in Hitachi, while further S. we see the outer edge of the Tokyo plain, with Tokyo lying far up the bay ; then in succession Capes Sagami and Sunosaki, Vries Island, the Gulf of Sagami, and nearer in the fore- ground, beautiful Lake Hakone peacefully embosomed in green hills.

Few travellers will be fortunate enough to obtain a perfectly clear view from the summit of Fuji, but the best chances are just before and at sunrise. *Nor,' says an authority quoted by Satow and Hawes, * will the pilgrim be wholly fortunate unless he sees the superb cloud effects which the mountain affords. These are most likely to be enjoyed, in ordinary summer weather, between noon and 6 o'clock in the evening, and they are truly magnificent. The summit of the mountain re- mains clear, but its shoulders and waist are surrounded by billowy masses of dense white vapour of indescribable splendour. Here and there a momentary break may permit a glimpse of the earth beneath, but usually nothing can be seen landward but this vast ocean of cloud, amid which the peak stands as the only island in the world. Turning seaifrard, the ocean

itself can be seen over the circum- ambient vapour, and affords a striking contrast to the turmoil and restless change of form of the clouds themselves.'

A curious phenomenon may also sometimes be witnessed at sunrise from the W. * side of the sum- mit. As the sun*s rays appear above the horizon, the shadow of Fuji (in Japanese, hage-Fvoi) is thrown in deep outline on the clouds and mist, which at that hour clothe the range of mountains to the west.

Descending again from Ken-ga- mine, the path passes under it, and just above the steep talus called Oya shirazu Ko shirazu (* Heedless of Parent or Child '), from the notion that people in danger of falling over the edge of the crater would not heed even their nearest relatives if sharers of. the peril. The name occurs in similarly perilous places in many parts of Japan. Continuing N., the path skirts the edge of the cone, passing a huge and precipitous gorge which appears to extend downwards to the very base of ■ the mountain. _ This gorge is what is called the Osawa, the lower limit of which may be some 6,000 ft. above the sea, or only half way from the summit. Passing across the flank of the Bai- iwa, or * Thunder Uock,' it goes outside the crater wall, ascends the Shaka no wari-ishi (* Shaka's Cleft Eock '), and leaving Shaka-ga-take — ^the second loftiest peak — behind, descends to the Kim-mei-sui (• Famous Golden Water '), a spring of ice-cold water situated on the flat shelf between the N. edge of the crater and the outer wall. Ascending again, the path passes the row of huts at the top of the ascent from Yoshida and Subashiri, and reaches a torii commanding the best view of the crater. Here it turns again to the 1., and goes outside the wall of the crater, underneath Kwannon-

120

Route 9. — Fvji and NeiyhhourJtood,

ga-take. Here the interesting phenomenon may be observed of steam still issuing from the soil in several places, one of which is close to the path, while an- other lies near at hand on the 1., about 50 ft. down the exterior of the cone, and a third is seen immediately underneath a wall of rock 50 yds. ahead. A few inches below the surface, the heat is great enough to boil an egg. Beyond this point, the path crosses a depression known as 8eishi-ga- kuho, ascends E. the 8ai-no-kawara, dotted with stone cairns raised in honour of Jizo, descends to the Gim-mei-sui ( * Famous Silver Water *) at the top of the Suyama ascent, and passing under the low peak named Koma-ga-take, reaches the huts at the top of the path from Murayama. Between this last point and Ken-ga-mine, is a small crater named Konoshiro-ga- ike, accessible from the N. The total distance round the large crater is said by the Japanese to be 1 ri, or 2^ miles; but this is doubtless an exaggeration. An interesting hour may be devoted to making the circuit. This will aUow for pauses at all the best points of view.

9. — The Chudo-Megubi, or Cir- cuit OF Fuji Half- Way up.

This walk, though few foreigners are likely to find leisure for it, is a favourite with native lovers of the picturesque, on account of the panorama which it succes- sively unfolds. The path encircles Fuji at heights varying from 9,490 ft. on the Gotemba side (which it intersects at station No. 6) to 7,450 ft. on the Yoshida side. It is best to turn to the 1. on starting from the above-mentioned No. 6 station, because the path descends a rapid slope of loose sand from the ridge of Hoei-zan towards the W., which would be very fatiguing if taken

in the opposite direction. The time required for the entire circuit is from 7 to 8 hrs., the walk offering no difficulties. At a spot caUed Komitake, on the N. side of the cone, there is a hut where accom- modation can, if necessary, be obtained for the night.

10. — Circuit op the Base of Fuji.

(Time, 2^—3 days.)

Itinerary.

GOTEMBA Station to :—

Ri. Cho. M.

Gotemba Village.... 12 f

Subashiri 2 18 6

Yamanaka 2 — 5

Yoshida... 2 8 5^

Funatsu 1 — 2i

Kodachi 12 f

Nagahama 1 — 2^

Nishi-no-umi 12 f

Nemba 1 12 3^

Shoji 1 24 4

Motosu 2 — 5

Nebara 18 3

Hito-ana 2 28 6f

Kami-ide 18 3

Qmiya 3 8 7f

SUZUKAWA 3 — 7i

Total 26 6 63f

(From Suzukawa by rail to Gotemba in 1^ hr.)

As far as Kodachi the way is practicable for jinrikishas, the Kago-zaka being the only part where it is necessary to get out and walk. Boats can be taken from Kodachi to Nagahama, from Nishi- no-umi to Nemba, and from Shoji across the lake. Pack-horses can be got at most of the stages, gene- rally at pretty high prices, and can be taken the whole round. A tramway runs from Omiya to Suzukawa. Travellers are recom- mended to engage horses for the whole trip, and thus render them- selves independent of their luggage, should they 9.vail themselves of

Bouie 10. — Ways to and from Kofu,

121

the opportunity of doing portions of the journey by boat.

Excepting the first 5 or 6 n, the whole of this trip is highly picturesque, leading, as it does, along the chain of lak^s — Kawagu- chi, Nishi-no-Umi, Shoji, and Motosu— that belt the base of Fuji. "Were there only good hotels or g^d private houses to hire, the shores of all these lakes would form delightful summer retreats. Scenery, fishing of sorts (carp, eels, dkorliara, etc.), short walks for the delicate, climbing for the strong and active, bathing, near- ness to such celebrated excursions as Fuji, the Misaka-toge, Minobu, etc., — all the elements of ^ pleasant holiday are there. Accommoda- tion can be had at

Gotemba Station, Inn Yoshijima-ya.

,t Village, „ Kawachi-ya. Subashiri, „ *Yoneyama.

Yamanaka, „ ♦Nammi-ya.

YoBhida, „ ♦Kogiku.

KodacM, „ •Temple of My ohoji.

Nebara, „ Yoshikawa .

Hampei. (

Hito-ana, „ Akaike Kei- 1 P™^'

kichi. J Kami-ide, „ Fuji-ya.

Also at Kawaguchi {Inn, Umeya), a little off the way, on the N. side of the lake of the same name.

The stars in this list indicate only a relative and very modest excellence.

At Hito-ana is a cave 260 yds. long, visited by pilgrims anxious to worship the little image of Kwannon which sits perched on a projecting rock at its further end. But the chief sight on the road is afforded by the beautiful waterfalls of Kaiiii-ide, known as Shira-ito no iaki, or *the White Thread Cas- cades.' The two largest, some 85 ft. in height, are called respectively 0-dafci and Me-daki, or 'the Male and Female Cascades,' and there are more than forty smaller falls, their children. In the neighbour- hood is another fine cascade, about 100 ft. high and 30 ft. wide, called Nen-nen-fuchi.

Persons not caring to make the entire round of Fuji may visit the

Kami-ide waterfalls by alighting at Suzukawa station on the Tokai- do Eailway, whence it is a distance of 6 ri 8 cho^ the first 3 W of which, as far as Omiya, by tram. The way there and back can be done in a day, under favourable circum- stances. One may also alight at Iwabuchi (good inn at station), whence it is only 5^ ri ; but there is no tram.

EOUTE 10. Wats to and from Koru.

1. KOPU AND NEIGHBOUKHOOD, MI- TAKE, KIMPTJ-ZAN. 2. TOKT5 TO KOFU BY THE k5sHU KAIDO [sARU- HASHI TO FUJI]. 3. VALLET OP THE TAMAGAWA. 4. FROM THE TOKAIDO TO KOPU vid THE TEMPLES OP MINOBU. 5. VALLET OF THE HATAKAWA, ASCENT OF 8HIRANE SAN. 6. RAPIDS OP THE FUJIKAWA. 7. KOPU TO SHIMO-NO-SUWA ON

, THE NAKASENDO, ASCENT OP KOMA- GA-TAKE IN KOSHU. 8. KOPU TO FUJI OVER THE MISAKA-TOGE. 9. KARUIZAWA TO KOPU OVER THE TSUYUTARE PASS, ASCENT OF AKA- DAKE.

Kofii is a pleasant resting-place after arduous travel, its central situation in the beautiful province of Koshu and its proximity to places of such peculiar interest as Mitake, Fuji, Minobu, the Eapids of the Fujikawa, etc., causing it to be included in so many differ- ent tours as to render a descrip- tion of the several ways to and from it advisable.

122

Eoute 10. — IVnt/H to and from Kd/u,

1. — KoFu AND Neighbourhood.

Kof II {Inns, * Yonekura in Yana- gi-machi ; Sado-ya j European food can be obtained in the Choyo-tei restt. in the public garden, where also foreign guests are accommo- dated for the night), the capital of the prefecture of Yamanashi, is noted for the progressive spirit of its people. For its size, it has more buildings in European style than any other provincial town in Japan. Conspicuous amongst these are the Prefecture, the Normal School, the Banks, the Court-houses, the Town Hall, the Industrial School, the silk-filatures, and the bookselling and printing establishment of Mr. Naitb Den-emon, who is also the pro- prietor of the Kdfu Daily News. The castle grounds were many years ago turned into an experimental garden, where excellent fruit and vege- tables are grown. From the plat- form where the keep formerly stood, there is a fine view of the town and surrounding country. A great festival, called Mi-yuki no Ma- tsuri, is held in Kof u on the 1st April. The town is noted for kaiki, a thin silken fabric used for the linings of dresses and for bed-quilts ; also for a sweetmeat called tsuki-no~ shizuku, that is * moon -drops,* con- sisting of grapes coated with sugar. The province of Koshii produces the best grapes in Japan, and at- tempts have been made, of late years, to produce wine and brandy from them. The grapes are in their prime about the end of September or beginning of October. Crystals are found in the neigh- bourhood. A cei-tain inconvenience is felt in the vicinity of Kdfu by the difficulty of procuring jinriki- shas, the native carriage (hasha) having almost driven them from the plain.

The chief historical interest of K5fu centres in its mediaeval hero, .Takeda Shin- gen, who was one of the fiercest feudal chieftains of the lawless times that pre- ceded the establishment of the Tokugawa dynasty of Shoguns, Born in 1521 as the

eldest son of his father, lord of Koshti, it was his fate to be unjustly pa«sed over by that father in favour of his second brother ; and he was obliged to feign stupidity as a boy, in order to preserve his life in safety. When, however, both youths reached man's estate, Takeda Shingen's superiority in skill and courage gained all the warriors of the clan over to his side, and he succeeded his father with< out demur. His whole time was spent in waging war against the barons of the neighbouring provinces of central and eastern Japan, especially against Uesugi Kenshin, lord of Shinshfl. In middle life he l)ecame converted to the doctrines of the Tendai sect of Buddhists, built a temple to the god Bishamon, did public X)enance, abj^ed the eating of fish and all intercourse with women, and went so far as to have himself decorated with the title of archbishop,— for what ecclesiaa- tical authorities were going to refuse any- thing to a zealot who disposed of so many soldiers ? He did not, however, renounce his grand passion, war, but kept on fighting till the end, his latter years being much disturbed by the conscious- ness of the growing power of leyasu, and being divided between quarrels and reconciliations with that great captain. When mortally wounded in 1573, he left orders with his successor to hold no funeral service in his honour, but to keep his death a profound secret for three years, and then to sink his body privately in Lake Suwa, enclosed in a stone coffin. This was in order to prevent his nume- rous foes from taking heail) at the news of his decease. His last will and testa- ment was only partially obeyed; for though his death was kept secret as long as possible, the body was not sunk in the lake, but buried at the temple of Eirinji at Matsuzato, a few miles from Kofu. The place still exists, the temple garden being a tasteful specimen of rock- work on a large scale. Brave but superstitious, Takeda Shingen was also an adept at governing men. His people liked and respected him, as was shown by the fact that none ever rebelled against him, evon in that turbulent age when every man's hand was against every man.

From Kofu a very pretty excur- sion may be made to the temples of JNitiikc, distant about 5 ri. Jinrikishas can be taken as far as a place called Kizawa, some 2 ri from Kofu, whence onwards it is necessary to walk. The whole distance can be accomplished in 3 J hrs. The road winds up a fine rocky valley, crossing and recross- ing the Kamezawa gawa several times. Beyond the hamlet of

Mittihe, The Koshu Kaido.

123

Kiyokawa, the river cuts its way through the rocks so as form a clianning double cascade called 86-gawar}uchi. A short way op, the traveller leaves this, the prettiest part of the road, and ascending to the r., comes in sight of the rocky valley in which lie the temples and village of Mitake. Excepting the beautiful site, a grove of magnificent trees, and the fine stone-work facing the slopes of the terraces, but little remains of th« former grandeur of the place, Tvhich has fallen into the de- structive hands of modern Shinto reformers.

The village of Mitnke (Inn, Tama-ya), 2,800 ft. above the sea, lies just below the temple grounds, on the banks of a stream in the midst of extremely picturesque scenery, the most conspicuous rocky peaks being Gah^san — ^the peculiar sugar-loaf cone — and Ten- gu-iwa on the opposite side of the valley. Specimens of rock-crystal are sold ija. the village. They are procured chiefly from mines in the neighbourhood of Kurobera on the way to Kimpu-zan.

Kimpn-zan, a granite mountain 8,300 ft. high, can be easily ascended in 1 day from Mitake by making an early start. The way lies through the vill. of Kurobera. At a Shinto shrine, 2\ hrs. beyond Kurobera, there is a good sized hut for the accommodation of piVims ; and here the real ascent begins, the distance hence to the summit being about 2,000 ft. The way lies over a heap of large granite boulders. At two places, ladders are fixed to assist the climb- er over difficult gaps, and at two others chains g^ve additional secu- rity ; but even without the help of these, there would be no danger. The top is crowned by a huge inaccessible mass of granite, rising to a height of some 50 ft., and forming a landmark by which the mountain can be recognised at a

great distance. The view includes Asama-yama on theN., Yatsu-ga- take almost due W., Fuji to the S., and the lofty mountain range on the Western boundary of the province of Kdshu.

2. — From Tokyo to Kopu by the KosHu Kaido.

The first stage of this journey is by train from either Shimbashi or Shinjiku station, 1^ hr. from the latter. (See p. 94.) The itine- rary of the rest of the route is as follows : —

HACHIOJIto:— Ri. Cho.M.

Komagino 1 27 4^

Yoshino 3 27 H

Uenohara 1 27 4^

Notajiri 1 19 3f

Saruhashi 3 6 7f

Ozuki 1 2 2i

Kuronota 2 29 6f

Katsunuma 3 15 8^

KOFU 4 2 10

Total 23 10 56|

The whole ground may be covered in 2 days, by taking jinrikishas from Hachioji to Kofu, and sleeping the first night at Saruhashi. Carriages of the usual springless kind run the whole way. The scenery is pretty all along the route after passing Ko- magino, but the road is often heavy away from the vicinity of the larger villages. Those wishing to break the journey before reaching Saruhashi, will find good accom- modation at Yoshino. From

Hachioji (Inn, Kado-ya),the road lies along the flat to Komagino, after passing which vill. a gradual rise leads up the Kobotoke-toge. The new Jiighway, avoiding as it does the summit of the pass (1,850 ft.), misses the extensive view over the plain of Tokyo and the sea, for which this portion of the journey was formerly noted; but on the way down on the other side, there

124

Route 10, — Ways to ami from Kd/u,

is a fine prospect of the Koshu mountains. Soon the traveller comes in sight of the fertile valley of the Banyugawa, also called Ka- tsura-gawa, which flows at the bot- tom of a deep ravine and becomes the constant companion of the journey as far as Ozuki. Some poor hamlets are passed before reaching

Yoshino (Inn by Ofusa Seijuro). In the neighbourhood of

Ueiiohiira [Inn, Uehara), a great deal of refuse silk is spun and woven into the fabric called tsumugi, to be taken to market at Hachi- dji. The town, lying on a plateau, has no wells. AH the water has to be brought from a distance in wooden pipes, and is consequently foul. From XJenohara, the road plunges down to the bed of the Tsurukawa, a tributary of the Banyii, and then again ascends and descends before arriving at Notajiri. Delightful glimpses of Fuji are obtained on the way. The scenery becomes strikingly pretty before reaching.

Sarnhashi {Inns, Daikoku-ya, Kubota), that is, the 'Monkey's Bridge/ also called Enkyo, the latter name being indeed but the Chinese, pronunciation of the same ideographs which in pure Japanese read Saruhashi. Perpen- dicular cliffs frown down upon the dark emerald stream, which is narrow and deep at this point. The place derives its name from the bridge having formerly been a mere cranky plank, such as monkeys alone might be supposed able to venture across. The present bridge is more or less of the cantilever sort, having the ends of the horizontal beams planted deep in the soil that covers the rock. Saruhashi, though but an unpretending place, has a certain importance as a market-town for the surrounding villages, and possesses a telegraph station. Specimens of the tsmn/iigi above-mentioned may be purchased here at cheap rates.

The scenery continues to be lovely aft«r passing SaruhashL There is a celebrated view at a point. where the Katsura-gawa is joined by its affluent the Wata- gawa between Saruhashi and Komahashi.

Ozuki is badly situated, as a hill rising behind it shuts out the sunlight and the view of Fuji; moreover the accommodation is wretched.

[A road to Toshida, from whvDh. place Fuji may be ascended, branches off here to the 1., following up the valley of the Katsura-gawa, and passing through the cleanly and thri- ving town of Tain lira (Inn, Susuki-tei). At Toka-ichiba there is a fine cascade, which is seen to best advantage from the verandah of the little tea- house ^lose by. The distance from Ozuki to Kanii-Yoahida (Inn, Kogiku), is just under 6 ri. The whole road is, in a manner, dominated by Fuji, beginning near Ozuki where the great volcano appears en vignette, and then grows and grows till it fills up the entire foreground. It is also curious to observe the gradual conver- sion of the lava into arable soil, partly by weathering, and partly by the labour of the peasantry].

At Ozuki the road abandons the Katsura-gawa, and proceeds up the valley of the Hanasaki-gawa through villages devoted to the breeding of si&worms. The diver- sified forms of the mountains lend a strange charm to the scene. After passing

Kuronota (Inn, Miyoshi-ya), one ascends the Sasago-toge, 3,500 ft. above the sea, or 1,300 ft. above Kuronota.

Katsunama is one of the cen- tres of the grape-growing industry. The plain of Koshu now lies

Valley of the Tamagaim,

125

before the traveller, surrounded on every side by a wall of high mountains. The chief summits to the W. are Koma-ga-take, Ho-o-zan, Jizo-dake, Kwannon, and Yakushi, backed by the long chain collec- tively known under the name of Shirane-san. Fuji also is visible noTv and then over the tops of the range bounding the plain on the S. From the vill. of Todoroki to Sbimo Kuribara, the road is lined witb peach-trees, double cherry trees and Kaido (Pyrus spectdbilis), which are in full blossom about the middle of April. The road runs along a fertile plain from this point to Kofu.

3. — Tokyo TO Koftj by the Valley

OF THE TaMAQAWA (OmE KaIDO).

Itinerary.

TOKYO (Shinjiku Station) to :—

Tachikawa by train 1 hr., thence by road to :

Ri. CJio. M.

Hamura 3 18 8i

OME f 1 18 3f

Sawai 2 18 6i

Kotaba 1 18 3f

Hikawa 2 — 5

Kochi-no-yu (Yuba).... 3 — 7i

Kamozawa 2 — 5

Tabayama 2 18 6f

Ochiai ". 3 18 8i

Yanagizawa-toge (top) 1 — 2i

Kamikane 1 18 3|

Ofuji — 18 U

Kusakabe 1 18 3f

Hirashina 1 — 2^

Satogaki 2-^6

KOFU 1 — 2i

Total 30 18 76i

This extremely pretty route, passing through some of the finest scenery within easy reach of the capital, is much to be recommended at all seasons, and particularly in spring when the trees are in flower. Kofu can be easily reached in 3i

days. Jinrikishas are practicable from Tachikawa to Ome j but the road across the plain is always rough, and it is better to walk. Jinrikishas can, indeed, be taken on to Sawai, where the first night should be spent; the rest of the journey till within 3 ri of Kofu must be performed on foot. Fair accommodation is also to be had at Kochi-no-yu, Tabayama, and Ofuji, but the food is everywhere very poor.

Leaving Tachikawa and passing through several hamlets we reach in 1 hr. the squalid-looking town of Haijima, a short distance beyond the Treaty Limit boundary. From the point where the road joins the Tamagawa aqueduct to the vill. of Hamura, the surface is harder and travelling somewhat easier. At

Ham lira (Inn, Tamaru-ya) we enjoy a charming glimpse of the Tamagawa, and can inspect the massive stone-work of the dam which is formed here to carry off the water to supply Tokyo. The road hence to Ome follows the 1. bank of the river, a heavy portion of the route in bad weather. At Ome, the Ome Kaido, or main road to Tokyo is first reached. It is now little used for through traffic.

Ome (Inn by Sakanoe Rinzo) con- sists of a single long street, lined with old gnarled fruit-trees, maples, crape myrtle, and pine, which give it a picturesque and pleasant ap- pearance. On the r., soon after en- tering the town, at the top of a flight of steps, stands a Shinto tem- ple decorated with good carvings, chiefly of birds and fabulous ani- mals. On leaving Ome the road at once enters the valley of the Tama- gawa, ascending along its 1. bank. The valley is rather wide here and well-cultivated. Shortly after pass- ing 1. the path which leads over the mannen-bashi to the sacred moun- tain of Mitake, the traveller may spend a few moments in watching the rafts shoot past the rocks in

126

Eoiite 10. — Ways to and from Kofu.

the river. Passing through the l>each orchards of Mitamiira, the bridge at the entrance of Sawai is crossed, and here a path branches off r., leading by way of Hanno to Chichibu and the province of Shin- bhu. At

Sii^'aii {Inn, Yamaguchi-ya), the beautiful part of the route com- mences. Just before reaching Ko- taba, the valley begins to contract and wind, while the hills on either side increase in height, and in front is seen the triple summit of Mitake.

[Mitake, 2,900 ft. above the sea, is an agreeable resort during the summer months, on ac- count of its cool temperature. It may be reached from Ome either, 1st, by crossing the river at that place and so at once gaining the road (practi- cable for jinrikishas to Hossawa near the foot oi the mountain) along the r. bank of the river, known as the Onie Hika^e K'lido, or Shady Road from Ome, owing to its lying on the shadier side of the valley ; 2nd, by crossing to the r. bank by the mannen-hashi bridge close to the tea-house at Hinata Wada. about 1 H from Ome by the usual road, which brings the traveller into the 'Shady Road* at Shimomura ; or, 3rdly, by crossing the Takahashi bridge, some way above the Yamagu- chi-ya inn at Sawai, direct to Hossawa. The distance from Ome to Hossawa may be calcu- lated at 2 hrs. on foot, and the ascent of the mountain at H hr. more. There are no inns at the summit, but rooms can bo hired at some of the houses inhabited by the priests. The temple stands at the very summit. On a hill further to the N., but easily reached from Mitake, and known as

the Oku-no-In, *is a chapel dedicated to Yamato-take. The population of the upper and lower villages on this mountain consists of families of hereditary Shinto priests, who intermarry almost exclu- sively among each other.

Mitake may also be ascended from Itaukaichi on the Aki- gawa, Sri SO cho from Hachioji, and 2 ri 21 cho from Ome. Instead of descending again to Hossawa, and crossing the river to Sawai, the pedestrian may save a couple of hours by descending to Unasawa, near the r. bank, about 1 m. below Hikawa.]

Kotaba (Inn, Naga-ya, poor) is the highest point from which rafts descend the river. Further up, single logs are thrown into the water and left to float down with the current. Tlie scenery con- tinues to be charming; the path constantly ascends and descends, sometimes rising to a great eleva- tion above the stream. Corn, miUet, and potatoes constitute the chief crops grown in the valley. Indigo and tobacco are also raised in small quantities. Descending through the remains of a cryp- tomeria grove, we cross the Nippara-gawa, an affluent of the Tamagawa, and after a short climb reach the village of

Hikawa {Inn, Miyamoto-ya). At this place, and elsewhere in the valley, may be observed bevelled waterwheels, used where the bank is too high for the ordinary under- shot wheel. The floats are small and placed wide apart, and the axle is inclined at an angle in order to admit of the wheel dipping into the stream. The next stage beyond Hikawa is extremely picturesque and but sparsely populated. Below the path, which winds up and down the flank of the mountain, the

Valley of the Tamagawa.

127

stream dashes along a rocky chan- nel, sometimes forming deep, clean pools ; while above, on either hand, rise steep lofty hills, mostly covered with timber, but wherever tlie exposure is favourable, culti- vated up to the highest possible point. Especially noticeable is the part where the road makes a deep bend to the r. just before coming to the baths of

Koebi-no-ju {Inn, * Tsuru-ya Tvliich has pleasant rooms over- hanging the river; the inn by Hara- sliima Koichiro has a private bath, and the upstairs rooms fronting W. are comfortable). This place, 1,350 ft. above the sea, is noted for its tepid sulphur springs, and is much resorted to by the people of the neighbouring villages. Half a mile further we cross a tribu- tary stream called the Ogawa, to the village of Kochi, and winding round to the r., pass in succession through Mugiyama and Kawano to the hamlet of Kamozawa at the boundary between the provinces of Musashi and Koshu.

Kiimozawa (no inns) is strikingly situated on the hill-side just above the road. From a point a short distance beyond, the scenery is very fine, and the road, considering the difficulties that had to be overcome, and the impossibility of preventing the effects of weathering on the easily disintegrated rocks over which it passes in many places, is a very creditable piece of engineering. It winds up the side of a magnificent wooded gorge for 4 or 5 m., while the river fiows away down at the bottom under the shade of de- ciduous trees. Half-way, perched on the r. bank of the stream far beneath the road, lies the quaint- looking hamlet of Honose. At last, turning a corner, we come in view of the spacious upland valley in which, surrounded by corn- fields, lie

Tabayama (Inn, Mori-ya-; height 2,000 ft. above the sea) and one or

two other hamlets. Beyond this the scenery becomes even more remarkable, and the views of deep ravines and rocky wooded preci- pices are amongst the finest to be seen in Japan. The bridges are broad and were solidly constructed, but have not been well maintained, and unfortunately the amount of traffic that takes place is not sufficient to justify any outlay on their improvement. The most striking bits are a short way above Tabayama, where grey fir-clad cliffs tower up to a height of over 2,000 ft. from the water's edge ; but the grandest prospect of all is about 1^ m. below Ochiai, where the road winds round the face of a lofty precipice which commands a view up a densely- wooded gorge almost to its very source. From this point to

Ochiai, which is a mere cluster of huts without inns, and for 1 ri further to the top of the Yanagi- zawd-toge (4,600 ft.), is a walk of about 2 hrs. over the only bad portion of the mountain route, the soft mud being thick and heavy even in the finest weather. The top of the pass affords a fine view of Fuji, seen over the intervening range of mountains. Descending on the Kofu side, the road follows the bank of the Omogawa, which it crosses and recrosses, to the vill. of

Kaniikane (poor accommoda- tion), when for the first time opens out in fuU view the great range dividing the provinces of Koshu and Shinshu. The chief peaks from r. to 1. are Koma-ga-take, Ho-o-zan, and Jizo-dake, with the triple peaks of Shirane-san behind, all rising beyond a nearer and lesser chain. The small wooded hill in front is Enzan, noted for a cold sulphur spring. From

Ofuji (Inn, Fuji-ya) the main road descends straight into the plain of Kofu, crossing the Omogawa and passing through Knsakabe with its avenue of pines

128

Route 10, — Ways to and from Kofu,

and flowering trees. It crosses the Fuefuki-gawa a short distance further on at Sashide, where coaches may be engaged to Kofu.

4. — SUZUKAWA ON THE TOKAIDO

Railway to Kofu vid the Temples op Minobu.

Umerary.

SUZUKAWA to :— Ri. Cho. M,

Omiya (tram) 3 — 7i

Utsubusa 2 — 5

Manzawa 1 26 4^

Nambu 3 — 7i

MINOBU 3 8 7f

Hakii 30 2

Yoka-ichiba 1 33 4f

Kiri-ishi 20 U

Kajikazawa 1 29 4^

K5FU 4 18 11

Total 22 20 55

Time, 2^ to 3 days.

It is possible to take jinrikishas the whole way ; but at least two men are needed, and there are numerous hills to walk up. Very poor accom- modation except at Omiya, Minobu, and Kajikazawa.

Between Oniiya (Inn, Wata-ya) and UtsnbiiRa, we reach the cele- brated Tsuri-hashi, or 'Hanging Bridge ' over the Fujikawa, at a picturesque spot where the river divides into two branches. This bridge, which is suspended to pre- cipitous rocks on either side by stout ropes of bamboos split and twisted together, consists of small bundles of split bamboos some 6 or 7 ft. long, lashed close to- gether and supporting a single row of planks laid along the middle as a pathway. The bridge, which is divided into two un- equal spans by timber supports resting on a lower rock close to the right bank, is altogether about 100 ft. long ; its height in the centre is al>out 26 ft., and at the

bank 35 ft., and the whole struc- ture shakes and sways considerably, though there is no real danger. Attempts are now (1891) being made to block up the left channel which flows under the bridge, and to keep the river altogether on the r. side of the island. Even if these efforts are successful and the bridge falls into disuse, similar structures may still be seen in the valley of the Hayakawa and elsewhere. From Utsubusa onwards, the road leads up the pleasant valley of the Fuji- kawa with occasional views of Fuji, Yatsu-ga-take, and other high mountains.

Minobn (Inns, Tanaka-ya, Masn- ya) consists of a single hilly street lined with shops for the sale of rosaries. It was also at one time noted for the manufacture of hempen rain-coats (mino), a fact to which the origin of the name has been ascribed. The village is charmingly situated in a valley surrounded by well-wooded moun- tains, among the most prominent being Oku-no-In which rises im- mediately behind the temples, and Shichimen-zan at the head of the valley. The vill. owes its ex- istence to the great Monastery of Kuenji, founded in the 13th century by the celebrated Bud- dhist saint Nichiren, a portion of whose body is here preserved. This monastery is the head-quar- ters of the Nichiren sect, and the new temples now in process of erec- tion to replace the former buiMings destroyed by fire in 1875 are fine specimens of Buddhistic architec* ture.

On entering the grounds of the Monastery, the traveller crosses a courtyard, whence either of two fiights of steps — the OtoTco-zaka and the Onna-zaka — may be ascended to the actual temples. On reaching the top of the steps, and passing r. the • belfry, the traveller will find him- self in front of the Founder's Tem- ple (Kaisan-do), from which galle-

Minobu,

129

ries lead to the Temple of the True Bones (Go 8hinkotsu-dd)y to the Temple of the Posthumous Tablet (Ihai-do), to the Pilgrims' Dormi- tory (Kyahi-den), to the Eecep- tions Booms {Taimen-zaahiki), and finally to the residence of the archbishop and the business offices of the sect (Jimusho). The interior dimensions of the main hall of the Founder's Temple are : length 76 ft., depth 120 ft., height 26 ft. from floor to ceiling, while the altar is 24 ft. long by 15 ft. in depth. The porch has carvings of dragons, storks, birds playing over the waves of the sea, and tortoises swimming through it. The ven- tilating panels over the grated doors contain angels and phoenixes brightly painted. The framework of the building and the pillars which support the ceiling are lacquered red and black, producing a noble effect. In the centre of the nave (gejin) hangs a . magnifi- cent gUt baldachin,_ presented by the merchants of Osaka. Gilded pillars mark off the space in front of the main altar, which is lac- quered red and decorated with gilt carvings of lions and peonies. The two porcelain lanterns about 8 ft. high, in front of the altar, are from the famous potteries of Hizen. The handsomely carved and gilded shrine contains a good life-size ef^gj of Nichiren, presented by the inhabitants of Tokyo. The cof- fered ceiling of the chancel (nai- jin) is plainly gilt, while the part of it immediately over the altar has gilt dragons, touched up with red, on a gilt ground. To the wall behind the altar are affixed modern 'paintingB of Kakan. The colours of the square brackets in the cornices are green, blue, red, and chocolate, often with an outline in white or a lighter shade of the prhicipal colour, and gold arabes- ques on the flat surfaces. The gem of lp!inobu, however, is the Temple of jthe True Bones, where the lover

of Oriental decorative art will find in contemporary freshness all those beauties which, in most of the religious edifices of Japan, have already been too much tarnished by the hand of time. A small fee is charged for admission. The exterior is unpretentious; but on entering the oratory, the visitor should observe the lifelike paintings of cranes on the ceiling. A plain gallery leads hence to the sanctum sanctorum, where Mchiren's remains are en- shrined. It is a small octagonal building, elaborately decorated and all ablaze with colours and gold. Bound the walls, on a gold ground, are full-sized representa- tions of the white lotus-flower, the emblem of purity and of the Bud- dhist faith. The horizontal beams above have coloured diapers and geometrical patterns, the brilliant effect of which is toned down by the black, mixed with gold, of the rafters. ' Black and gold are like- wise the colours used in the ceiling, which is secured by beautifully worked metal fastenings. In the ramma are carvings of the Sixteen Disciples (Ju-roku Bakan), and on the doors are paintings of musical instruments. The shrine (koto), which was presented by the faith- ful of the province of Owari , is of gold lacquer and shaped like a two- storied pagoda. In it rests the reliquary or casket of gold and precious stones containing the bones of Nichiren, which is in the form of a tiny octagonal pagoda, standing on a base of jade carved in the conventional lotus-flower form. Its framework is of the alloy called shakvdo, and one of the pillars bears an inscription in silver dama- scening, which, among other pdlr- ticulars, gives a date correspond- ing to A.D. 1580. The other pillars are decorated with silver tracery attached to the surface of the shakudo. The top is hung with strings of coral, pearls, and glass beads. The height of the whole is a

180

Route 10, — Ways to and from Kofu,

little over 2 ft. Above hangs a bal- dachin presented by the inhabitants of Nagasaki. The only European innovation in the place is the intro- duction of two glass windows, which permit of a much better examina- tion of the building than is gene- rally obtainable in the 'dim re- ligious light' of Japanese sacred edifices. The Temple of the Posthu- mous Tablet is a plain, uninterest- ing building. Pending the erec- tion of the new buildings, it has been temporarily used to hold the remains of the saint and an image of him carved by his disciple Nichi- ro. The archbishop's residence is a beautiful specimen of Japanese house-decoration in the old style. Note the exquisite modem open- work carvings of cranes and geese, and the fine paintings in the alcove (tokonoma) of the Becep- tion Booms. For a fee of 25 sen, the priests officiating at the ]^aisan-do will display the image on the altar and perform a short service in its honour. The chief yearly festival takes place on the 12th and 13th October, old calendar (some time in November).

The ascent to Oku-no-In winds up Ueno-no-yama, the hill imme- diately behind the Founder's Temple, and is an easy climb of 50 cho. After passing the small temple of Sanko-do, the road ascends through a forest of crypto- merias, and near the summit com- mands an extensive view, including Fuji, part of the Gulf of Suruga, and the promontory of Izu. On the top stends a plain little temple dedicated to Nichiren, whose crest of the orange-blossom is prominently marked on various objects within the enclosure.

A spare day at Minobu may be devoted to the ascent of Shichi- men-zan whose summit is not quite 5 ri distant. The best place to halt on the way is Akasawa, 3 ri 2 cho from Minobu ; but the traveller must take his own food.

There is a good road all the way up. The last 50 cho are marked by stone lanterns numbered from 1 to 50. No. 36 affords the best view, which includes the full sweep of Suruga Bay, with the promon- tory of Izu stretching far out to sea, a magnificent prospect of Fuji, the fertile plain of Kofu intersected by the various streams uniting to form the Fujikawa, the valley of the Hayakawa below to the 1., beyond which are seen Shirane-san and the Koma-ga-take of Koshu, while Yatsu-ga-take, Kimpu-zan, and other distant ranges bound the prospect on the N. On the top, which the forest deprives of all view, stands a plain building dedicated to the goddess of the mountain.

According to the legend, as Nichiren was one day preaching in the open air at Minobu, a oeautiful woman suddenly made her appearance, and greatly excited the curiosity of his auditors. Ou Nichiren ordering her to assume her true form, she explained that she dwelt among the mountains to the west, and that seated on one of the eight points of the compass, she dispensed blessing to the other seven. She then beggred for water, which was given to ter in a vase, and at once the beautiful wo- man was transformed into a snake twenty feet long, covered with golden scales, and armed with iron teeth. A terrible blast swept down from the mountains, and she disappeared in a whirlwind towards the point of the compass indicated. The words * seven points - of - the - compass ' (gkichi-men) also mean ' seven faces ;' and by an equivoque the popular belief has arisen that a serpent with seven heads had appeared to the saint, whom he deified under the name of Shichiwen DaimyOjin. Buddhist writers identify her with Srimahaddva, the ddva of lucky omen, another name for the Hindoo god Siva.

Game is plentiful on the hills surrounding Minobu. Deer and bears are frequently seen, and pheasants are abundant. Shoot- ing, however, is strictly prohibited, as contrary to the tenets of the Buddhist faith. Departing from Minobu and passing through

Hakii, the place where travellers coming down the Fujikawa en ra/vM

Valley of the Hayakawa,

181

to Minobu leave the boat, we reach Futui, between which vill. and Itomi the Hayakawa is crossed.

[For a description of the extreme- ly picturesque valley of this river, see No. 5 of this route.]

The current is so swift at the ferry that the boat has to be fastened to either bank by a rope. The crossing is effected by the help of a pole, and by quickly hauling on one end of the rope as the other is slackened. The scenery at this point is remarkably fine. A mass of rock, inclined at an acute angle on the 1. bank of the Fujikawa, just opposite the confluence of the Hayakawa, is worth noticing. From Itomi onwards, the road generally follows the bank of the river to Yoka-ichiba {Inn, Wakao- ya) and Kiri-ishi (Inn, Matsuzaka- ya), then descending to the vill. of Nishijima, where the river makes a wide bend to the r. Beyond

Kajikii-zawa (Inn Ueda-ya), the road enters the plain of Kofu, with its amphitheatre of mountains, whose various summits are seen from numerous other points; but the best general view of them is enjoyed while crossing the bed of the Fujikawa, here called the Kama- nashi-gawa, beyond Anabara. The imposing mass to the 1. is Yatsu- ga-take, rising between Kane-ga- take to the r. and Koma-ga-take ' to its 1. The high mountain to the 1. of the latter, distinguished by a pile of rocks on its summit, is Ho- d-zan, to whose 1. is seen in succes- sion the great range of Shirane. The high mountain to the r. of Kane-ga-take is Kimpu-zan. Fuji's cone alone is visible above the intervening range. Shichimen-zan is seen on looking back down the valley. The 44 ri separating Kaji- ka-zawa from Kofu can be done by carriage in about 3 hrs.

6. — From Itomi to Kofu by the Valley of the Hayakawa. Ascent of Shibane-san, Ho-6-

ZAN, AND KaIQANE-SAN.

Itinerary,

ITOMI to :— Bi. Cho. M.

Koretsubo 3 — 7i

Kyo-ga-shima 2 16 5

Hayakawa - 34 2^

ShimoYujima ... 3 18 Sh

Narada 2 — 5

Ashikura 5 — 12|^

Arino 2 — 5

Dodo 15 1

Midai 10 f

KOFU 2—5

Total...

> • • ^^ • • • •

21 21

52-»

It

This trip is a very rough one ; for though so close to civilisation, the country through which it leads the traveller lies in the heart of the great mountain mass dividing Koshii from Shinshu and Suruga, and both the people and the roads are in much the same state as they were in earlier centuries before railways were known or foreigners heard of. The journey can only be accomplished on foot, and one should travel as lightly as possible, for all baggage has to be carried by coolies, who are often difficult to obtain. The traveller will meet with no regular inns ; but the of- ficials and headmen of the various hamlets are very civil, and ready to provide the best accommodation their places afford. It is possible to combine with this trip the as- cent of the Koshu Shirane-san and other lofty peaks. From Itomi the road ascends the bank of the Haya- kawa through wild and picturesque scenery to the hamlet of

Koretsubo, beyond which a steep climb of 18 cho leads to Gokamura. A short way beyond this the path descends to a pretty valley near the hamlet of Shio-no-ue, where the scenery is particularly striking. To

182

Route 10, — Ways to and from Ko/u,

the 1. rises Shichimen-zan, thickly wooded and seen to much better ad- vantage here than from Minobu. Eight opposite is the bold round summit of Amebata-yama^ also called Zaru-ga-dake, through the deep ravine to the 1. of which flows the Amebata-gawa. Below is seen the Hayakawa windinor down the valley on the r., and forming ahnost a complete circle as" it bends round a low wooded promontory, which from this point has the appearance of an island. The path now des- cends over a rough watercourse to the bed of the river, and ascends its 1. bank to

Kyo-ga-shima. Eight cJio further on it crosses the stream on a tsuri- hashi, or 'hanging bridge,' to the hamlet of Ho, in the neighbour- hood of which a gold mine is worked.

For a description of the tniri-ba$hi, or * hanging brioge,' of the mountain dis- tricts of Eastern and Central Japan, see p. 128. Another primitive kind or bridge, called mannen-baski, has sometimes to be crossed on this route It consists of a long piece of timber, which is simply tied at the end to projecting supports, such as ure used in the hanging bridge. The span is not so great as that of the tmri- ba$hi; but the narrowness of the roadway, and the imperfect manner in which the projecting beams are supported, give the traveller a most uncomfortable feeling of insecurity. The Japanese name is a hyperbole signifying * Bridge of a Myriad Years.*

Beyond Ho, the path leads over one of the lower spurs of Daikoku- yama, and follows the steep side of the vaUey high above the stream. After passing the hamlet of Nishi- no-miya, the traveller recrosses the river to

Hayakawa, where he will find comfortable quarters at the house of the Boncho (Mayor) of Misato, the ' three villages ' of which this place is one. Gold is said to be found in the neighbourhood, while plantations of the paper-tree (Edgeworthia) and of tobacco line this part of the valley. Higher up, beyond the hamlet of Arakawa, the scenery is charming.

The river dashes along through a fine rocky glen, and is spanned by one of the mannen-hashi at a highly picturesque spot. After crossing the bridge, the road divides. The route to Narada turns to the r., and ascends a very steep hill for about 1 ri, winds round its upper slope, and descends again to the river through wild and rugged scenery before reaching the hamlet of

Shimo Tnjima. Beyond this place, the path crosses and recrosses the river on mannen-hashi. About 40 cho on, and a little way up the ravine to the r., is the hot spring of Kami Tnjima (poor accommo- dation).

Nariida (accommodation at a Buddhist temple), the last in- habited place in the valley, consists of but a few households. All the inhabitants bear the same sur- name, and seldom intermarry with the people of other villages. They are a primitive folk of a peculiar type of countenance, who wear in summer a loose hempen dress, and deer and bear-skins in the winter. Their dialect is peculiar, and abounds in archaic words and ob- solete grammatical forms. Owing to their practical isolation from the outer world, their ignorance and want of education are extreme, and they are content to live in dirt and squalor. Bice, sake, and soy are with them luxuries to be in- dulged in on rare occasions, their ordinary food consisting only of millet and potatoes. Narada boasts of 'Seven Wonders' (Nana JV shigi), amongst which are en- umerated a brackish pool, the waters of which are said to have the property of dyeing black any article of clothing left to steep in them for forty-eight hours, and a reed whose leaves grow only on one side of the stem.

[More interesting to the deter- mined pedestrian than these

Ascent of Shimne-mn,

133

village wonders will be the ascent of Shirane-!4an, which may be taken on the way to Ashikura, instead of proceeding to the latter place by the usual path according to the itinerary.

The name Shirane-san is often used to denote tlie whole mighty range dividing the province of Kpsha from the head-waters of* the Oigawa, a range second only in orographical importanee to that of Etcha and Hida, which forms the subject of Route 34. The name is, however, more properly confined to the northern and most elevated portion, consisting of three peaks, viz. NOdori on the S., Ai-no-take in the centre, and Kaigane on the N. There exists a somewhat amusing rivalry be- tween the inhabitants of Narada from which the first two peaks are ascended, and those of Ashikura,. the nearest point to the third, the one vill. maintaining that Ai-no-take is the highest of the three and the true Shirane, while the other claims the same honours for Kaigane. The traveller looking at the range from the summit of HO-O-zan, or from any other mountain top commanding a view of the two peaks, will adjudge the Ashikura people to be in the right about the question of altitude.

There is no regularly marked path from Narada to the top of the range; but guides can there be procured who know the way up, and will carry whatever is necessary in the way of provisions and bedding. The traveller who proposes to ascend all three peaks must be prepared to sleep out three nights, and, taking Nodori-san first, to cross on the fourth day from the base of Kaigane to Ashikura. Nodori-san and Ai-no-take involve sleeping out two nights and descending on the third day — likewise to Ashi- kura. There is a hut at the E. base of Kaigane^ but none on the top of the range. Ai- no-take cannot be ascended direct from Narada; Nodori must first be climbed, and the track then followed along the ridge to the former peak.

From Narada there is a choice of ways up Shirane, one leading along a ravine above the viU. called Hiro-Kochi, the other up the Shira-Kochi a short way below it. To the top of the ridge is a stiff climb of 9 hrs., frequent rests being needed by the guides who carry the burdens. The height is 8,400 ft. above the sea, or 5,900 above Narada, and snow often lies there as late as July. Once on the ridge, the rest of the ascent is easy. In 2 hrs. the first peak is reached, height 8,830 ft. The view includes W.S.W., the round top of Ena- san in Mino; N.W. by W., Ontake ; and in front of the highest peak of a long ridge, the Koma-ga-take of Shinshu. Norikura bears N.W., and Yari-ga-take N.W. by N. In the far distance N.E. the top of the Nikko Shirane can just be descried, and the Chichibu mountains are well seen, in the same direction. Ho-6-zan is nearly N.N.E.; then come Jizo-ga-take, and Kwannon and Yakushi close together. Fuji, the basin of the Fuji- kawa, and the Kofu plain are distinctly seen.

Half an hour more brings us to the top of N6d<»ri, 9,300 ft., which commands much the same view as the previous summit, with the addition of Ai-no-take and Kaigane, the latter of which now comes in sight for the first time.

I)rom the summit of Nodori- san to that of Ai-no-take (9,850 ft.), takes 2 hrs. The top is bare rock ; but at a short distance below, every sheltered nook contains a patch of grass, gay with the flowers that inhabit the higher altitudes. Ten min. below the summit on the E. side is a capital camping- place. ' The view from the high-

134

Boute 10, — Ways to and from Kd/u.

est point includes, besides the mountains already seen from Nodori-san, the following : — Koma-ga-take a little to the E. of N., Kaigane N. N.E., Yatsu-ga-take just on the E. of Kai-gane ; Kimpu-zan N.E. by E., and Senjo-ga-take, a much lower mountain on the 1. of the Norokawa, N.W. The source of this stream is perceived far down on the N.W. flank of Ai-no-take. To- wards the S., and beyond Nodori-san, a long range of mountains is seen stretching down the frontier of Koshu, and getting gradually lower as it approaches Minobu. Fuji rises between S.E. and E.S.E., while Ho-6-zan and Jiz6-ga- take on the one side, and Ontake, Norikura, and Yari- ga-take stand up perfectly clear on the other. The de- scent from Ai-no-take to Ashi- kura is fatiguing as far as a stream some 4,200 ft. above the sea level.- This stream is the Arakawa, one of the sources of the Hayakawa. If the day is too far spent to allow of Ashikura being reached before nightfall, one may sleep at some wood- cutters' huts 1^ hr. before getting to that village.]

The ordinary path from Narada to Ashikura winds up and down a succession of forest-slopes, whose thick foliage almost entirely shuts out all view. Now and then, how- ever, glimpses are caught, of Shi- rane-san and of the valleys of the Arakawa andNorokawa. Further on the path divides, — ^r. to Kof u vi& Hirabayashi, 1. to Kofu vi4 Ashi- kura. The latter is not practicable during heavy rains; but the travel- ler is recommended to take it when it can be traversed, on account of its wild and beautiful scenery. A portion of the way lies down a

precipitous rocky ravine known as the Ide-zawa, where the gorge in many places is so narrow that its perpendicular sides seem almost to meet overhead. The path descends by the side of a torrent, crossing and recrossing the stream on trunks of trees, and being occa- sionally carried over clefts and landslips on bridges of very primi- tive structure.

Ashikura, which stands on the L bank of the Midai-gawa, consists of four hamlets named Katsuzawa (the highest up the valley), Ozori, Kozori, and Furu-yashiki lower down. Travellers who intend to make the ascent of Ho-o-zan should stay at Kozori. There is also fair accommodation at Puru-yashiki.

From Ashikura into Kofu is a walk of 6 ri.

[The ascent of H5-o-zan and that of Kaigane are best made from Ashikura. The walk up Ho-o- zaii, though under 6 ri, will occupy a good pedestrian about 9 hrs., and the descent 5 hrs., including stoppages. Though it is possible, by making an early start, to complete the ascent and descent in one day, it is not usual for pilgrims to do so, and they generally, on the downward journey, halt for the night at the wood- cutters' sheds at Omuro, li ri below the summit. The ac- commodation being rough, provisions and bedding should be taken. Those who wish to enjoy the morning view from the summit should either make a late start from Kozori and spend the night at Omuro, ascending next morning at daybreak, or start early and bivouac at the hollow between the summits of Jizo and Ho- o-zan. In the latter case it will be necessary to take uten- sils for carrying up water, as none can be got beyond Omuro.

Shirane-san, Rapids of the Fujikawa,

185

The ascent commences beyond the hamlet of Kutsuzawa, 12 cho from Kozori. The view from Suna-harai, a rocky peak over which the path leads, includes in front Senjo-ga- take, over whose r. flank is seen the outline of Koma-ga- take in Shinshu; on the 1., the ridge slopes down to the valley of the Norokawa, on the opposite side of which rises the sharp summit of Kaigane-san; lower down the valley is the bold massy form of .Ai-no-take, while in the further distance are seen the high mountains on the nor- thern boundary of Suruga. To the r. the summits of Yakushi- dake and Kwannon-dake shut out the more distant prospect. The view on looking back in - eludes Fuji, the Kofu plain, and surrounding mountains. Beyond this point are two other peaks — Yakushi-dake not usually ascended by pilgrims, and Kwannon-dake which they do generally visit, and whence there is a fine view of the ravine through which the Norokawa flows. The highest point — Ho-o-zan properly so- called — is still further on, and may be scaled as far as the ledge which supports the two enormous blocks or pillars of granite that form the actual summit. The view closely re- sembles that from Koma-ga- take described on p. 186.

The way up Kaigane-san diverges 1. from that up Ho-o- zan. From Kozori to a small temple where one may halt for the night will occupy one day's climbing, whilst the remainder of the ascent is said to take 6 hrs. If it be not intended to visit the other summits of the range after ascending Kaigane- san, the usual plan is to descend to the temple and

spend the second night there, returning to Ashikura on the following day. But should the traveller wish to complete the round by ascending Ai-no- take and N5dori-san, it will be necessary to sleep out one night before descending either to Narada or to this temple.

We trust that the rough nature of the entire trip has been made sufficiently mani- fest, and that none but sturdy climbers will embark on it.]

6. — Fbom Kofu to Iwabtjchi on

THE TOKAIDO BY THE BaPIDS OF

THE Fujikawa.

•

Eoughly speaking, this is No. 4 reversed, but done partly by boat instead of wholly by road. Time 1 day ; 2 days, if the journey be broken at Minobu, for which alight at Hakii. The waJk from the river to the vill. of Minobu occupies 40 min. A carriage must be taken for the first stage (4^ ri) from Kofu to Kajikazawa, where a boat can be engaged to Iwabuchi (in 1891, the price was ^i for boat with 4 men, weather being favourable).

There is considerable traffic on the Fujikawa, no less than 600 boats being engaged in it. When the river is in its ordinary state, the times taken are as follows :

Kajikazawa to: — hbs,

Hakii ; 2i

Nambu 1

Iwabuchi 3

Total [ 6i

As far as the confluence of the Hayakawa the river flows placidly along, now at the base of bare rocky hills, now past villages and rice-fields. Below this point begins a series of races and small rapids, the most remarkable of which is just above the Hanging Bridge where the current whirls along at a dizzy pace. On nearing

186

TiOvt£ 10, — W(fys to and from Kofu,

Matsuno, some fine g^roups of hexa- ofonal andesite columns will be noticed on the r. bank. At Iwabiiclii {Inn, Tani-ya), the boats are taken along the canal to the landing-place close by the railway station.

7. — From Kofu to Shimo-no-Suwa

ON THE NaKASENDO.

_ Itinerary.

KOFU to :— Ri. Chv. M.

Nirasaki 3 5 7f

Enno 2 — 5

DAI-GA-HARA ..-2 9 5^

Kyoraishi ;. 1 16 3^

Tsutaki ,. 1 6 2f

Kanazawa 3 8 7f

Kami-no-suwa ... 3 19 8^

SHIMO-NO-SUWA 1 4 2f

Total 17 31 43i

This road is a continuation of the Koshii Kaido, the first section of which, from Tokyo to Kofu, has been described on p. 123. It is prac- ticable for carriages and jinrikishas the whole way.

Leaving Kotu and crossing the Shiogawa, an affluent of the Fuji- kawa, we reach

Nirasaki {Inn, Yashima-ya) and Eniio, also called TsvJbarai or Marwno.

[From Enno the ascent of H6-o zan can be made. The dis- tance to the top of the gap be- tween Jizo-dake and H6-o-zan is called 5 ri. The path crosses the spur to the 1. of the vilL, and descends to the bed of the Komukawa, which is followed up until the actual ascent of 2\ri commences.]

From a grove of trees just be- yond Tsubarai, there is a magni- ficent view of Koma-ga-take, the whole sweep to the sharp summit of the precipitous rocky mass being seen to perfect advantage. The road now ascends the valley

of the Kamanashi-gawa. The greater part of it as far as Dai- ga-hara is built up on the stony beds of various streams. The scenery of the valley is very pretty, and in many places quite striking. The r. side is lined with peculiar castellated cliffs of brown con- glomerate, while to the 1. rises the high range of which Koma-ga-taJfe is the principal feature. Further on, Yatsu-ga-take appears to the r., and on looking back beautiful and varied views of Fuji are to be seen.

[One ri before reaching Dai-ga- hara, a path 1. leads to the base of Jizo-dake (5 ri 28 cho), whence the mountain can be ascended.]

We next reach Dai-ga-hara (Inn, Maru-ya), whence the ascent of the Koshii Koma-ga-take can best be made. [The ascent is so precipitous and difficult in parts, and so long — nominally 7 n to the summit — as to necessitate sleeping one night at the Omuro or Uma- dome huts on the mountain side. Water should be taken up, 'as none can be procured except at these huts. The summit consists of two peaks, on one of which stands a , bronze figure of the Shinto god Onamuji. On the second and higher peak, called Oku- no-in, is a small image of the Buddhist god Marishiten. The summit commands a mag- nificent view on every side. Looking S. the eye sweeps over the valleys of the Noro- kawa and Tashiro-gawa, to the 1. of which rises the long range of Shirane, the most con- spicuous summits being the snow-streaked peak of Kaigane- san which stands in close proximity, and beyond, the bold mass of Ai-no-take, the central portion of the range. Beneath is the ravine through

Kofu to Shimo-no-Suiva and to Yoshida.

137

which the Norokawa flows as it winds round the base of Kaigane-san ; the mountain to the r. is Senj6-ga-take. Be- yond Shirane several high mountains are visible, and are probably those which stand on the N. boundary of Suruga. Towards the E. the valley of the Fujikawa is seen between the near summit of Ho-o-zan and the E. slope of Kaigane, and in the far distance can be distinguished the promontory of Izu and the sea. The most striking feature of the view is Fuji, to whose 1. a wide plain stretches far away to the E. Towards the N. and W. the following mountains are seen in succession : — a portion of the Chichibu range, Kimpu-zan, Yatsu-ga-take, Asama-yama, the lofty mountains on the borders of Etchii and Hida, Ontake, the Koma-ga-take of Shinshu, and Ena-San in Mino, while the nearer view includes the plain of Kofu, the valley of the Kamanashi-gawa, Tate- shina-yama, the mountains about the Wada pass. Lake Suwa, and the valley of the Tenryu-gawa]. Beyond Dai-ga-hara the road is lined on one side with fine red pine-trees, which shut out the view of the river as far as

Kyoraishi {Inn, Izumi-ya). At the boundary of the provinces of Koshu and Shinshu, the road cross- es to the 1. bank of the Kamana- shi-gawa, and passing through the insignificant vUl. of Shimo Tsutaki, reaches _

Kami Tsutaki (Inn, Osaka-ya), after which the road becomes hilly. The highest point is reached at 3,070 ft. above the sea, being 1,050 ft. above Dai-ga-hara. Thence it descends to

Kftnazawa (Inn, Matsuzaka-ya), and down the valley of the Miya- gawa, where the waters of Lake

Suwa soon come in view. At Chugo, where the road crosses a stream, and from several points further on, there is a fine view of the mountains on the borders of Hida, the most conspicuous sum- mits being Iwasu-ga-take and Yari- ga-take. The lofiff mountain in the distance to the 1. of the lake i& Nishi Koma-ga-take.

Kami-no-8iiwa (Inn, Botan-ya) is a busy town on the borders of the lake. About 2 ri distant is the Ichi no Miya, or chief Shinto temple of the province of Shinshu, which contains some excellent wood carvings. The annual fes- tival is held on the 1st August. The road now skirts the slopes on the N. shore of the lake, and passing through the hamlets of Cwa and Takaki, reaches Shimo-no- Suwa (see Route 39).

8. — From Kofu oveb the Mi- saka-toge to yoshida at the BASE OF Fuji, and 70 Gotemba

ON THE TOKAIDO EaILWAY.

Itinerary.

KOFU to :— Bi. Cho. M,

Izawa 1 23 4

Kami Kurogoma. 1 31 4^

Tonoki 1 18 3|

Kawaguchi 2 30 6f

YOSHIDA 2 3 5i

Yamanaka 4 8 10^

Subashiri 2 — 5

GOTEMBA 2 30 7

Total 18 35 464r

Time required, 2 days, stopping at Yoshida the first night. Yoko.- hama may easily be reached on the evening of the second day by train from Gotemba. Jinrikishas with two men are practicable the whole way, when the roads are in a good state.

The road follows the Koshii Kai- do as far as Iznwa (Inn, Shishi- moto), where it turns off to the r..

138

RoiUe 10. — Ways to and from Kofu,

and soon enters a narrow valley. From Kami Knrogroma, it rises rapidly to

Tonoki {Inn, 6akai-ya), 3,200 ft. above the sea. It then ascends for about 1 hr. through a forest to the hut on the summit of the Misaka- toge, which is .5^20 ft. above the sea. The view of Fuji from this point, as it rises from Lake Kawa- guchij is justly celebrated. Below is the vill. of Kawaguchi ; on the opposite side of the lake are Fu- natsu and Kodachi. Further S. is Lake Yamanaka. The view look- ing back towards the N. and W. includes Kimpu-zan, Tatsu-ga-take, Koma-ga-take, Jizo-dake, and in the plain below, the vill. of Izawa. It is an hour's descent to

Kawagiichj {Inn, Nakamura), a poor vill. lying a couple of hundred yards from the lake. Boats can be procured from here to Funatsu, making an agreeable change in the day's work ; or else one may follow the road skirting the lake through the hamlet of Akasawa for about f hr., with steep mountains on every side. Funatsu produces white and coloured tswmugi, a coarse fabric woven from spun floss silk. From Funatsu to Yoshida, and indeed all the way on to Subashiri and Gotemba, the road traverses the moor that forms the base of Fuji.

9. — Feom Kabuizawa on the Na- kasendo to kofu by the tsutu- TABE Pass.

Itinerary,

KARUIZ AWA to :— Et. Chd. M.

Iwamurata 4 33 12

Usuda 2 6 5i

. Takano-machi ... 1 7 3

Hata 1 20 3f

Umijiri 3 10 8

Itabashi 2 10 6i

Nagasawa 4 4 10

Nirasaki 4 32 12

KOFU 3 18 8i

Total 27 31 68

This route is recommended to those whose chief object is moun- tain climbing. Exclusive of such. climbing, the journey takes 2 days, jinrikishas being available for tlie first part between Iwamurata and. UsudJEk, and carriages from l^irasalad to Kofu. The rest must be done on foot. There is accommodation of the usual country sort at th.e places mentioned in the itinerary.

Hata is the best place from which to ascend Tateshina-yama. This expedition requires the whole of a long day, but is worth the trouble, on account of the extensive view which the peak commands.

^rom Umijiri, at the end of the Iwasake gorge, one may visit the sulphur springs of Inaga (21 chd), and thence go up to the Honzawa baths (3 ri), situated at a height of 3,200 ft. above Umijiri. The sum- mit of the Honzawa pass, some 40 min. walk beyond the Honzawa baths, is 7,400 ft. above the sea. From this point a path leads to the summit of Mikahwi-yama, 8,450 ft. above the sea. The whole expedition will occupy a day.

Itabashi is the best starting- point for the ascent of Akaddke, but there is no path. Two ri from Itabashi across the moor is a wood-cutter's hut at the base of the spur where the ascent begins, and it is advisable to sleep here in order to make an early stiurt in the morning. The hut is about 5,300 ft. above the sea, which leaves 3,600 ft. to be still ascended, the summit having an altitude of 8,990 ft., and the climb up it being very steep in parts. The. view includes Asama- yama, Kimpu-zan, Fuji, and all the mountains on the W. boundary of Koshu. Guides cannot always be procured at Itabashi. In this case it will be necessary to proceed to Hirasawa, half-way between Ita- bashi and Nagasawa, where they can always be had.

From Nagasawa it is an easy climb up Qongen-dakQ, the most

Route 11, — Kumagai to Omiya*

189

sontherly of the nmnerons peaJis known under the collective name of ITatsu-ga-take. It is not usual, however, with the Japanese to make the ascent until after the autumn equinox, and the traveller may, therefore, experience a little difficulty in obtaining guides. In this, as in the previous case, he will do best to make Hira- sawa his starting-point. The ascent takes about 5 hrs., the descent to Nag^asawa 3 hrs., that to Hirasawa 4 h.rs. The view includes the whole of the Hida-Shinshu range, amongst wb.ich Yari-ga-take is conspicuous to the N.W., Fuji is seen towering aloft S. by E., the Koshu Koma-ga- take S.W. by S., Shirane a little to its S., Ho-o-zan S.S.W., distin- guished by the monumental pile of rocks at its summit, and KLmpu- zan S.E. by E.

EOUTE 11.

EUMAGAI TO OmIYA IN ChICHIBU^

Cave-Templb of Kwannon nbab Kaoemobi.

For those desirous of cross-country walks, a suitable opportunity is afforded at Kumagai of striking off to Omiya, the chief town in the district of Chiohibu, which will be found a convenient centre for sut^h excursions. Near it is also a cave- temple of Kwannon, possessing some celebrity and well-worth a visit. The road is practicable for jinrikishas.

KUMAGAI to:— Ri.Cho. M.

Tanaka 8 18 8^

Yorii 1 18 3|

Nogami 8 14 8|

Onobara 8 — • 7?

Omiya i __ aj

Total 12 U 30^

The road branches off to the 1. just beyond Kumagai, and traverses

a rich rice-plain until more elevated ground with mulberry plantations is reached. Good views of the Chi- chibu mountains are obtained on the way. The Arakawa, flowing down a wild and stony bed, is joined 10 cho before coming to

Yoril, a busy vill. carrying on a large trade in silk, the chief in- dustry of the people all along this route. The road now ascends the valley of the Arakawa through very pretty scenery.

Nogami lies a little way from the river, which is left behind at the hamlet of Kanasaki, whence the way lies again across a richly cultivated tract of country.

Omiya {Inrit Kado-ya) is noted for its silk fabric called futako- ori. Fairs are frequently held here, which are largely attended during the season by dealers in raw silk and cocoons. At Kagemori, 20 cho from Omiya, a path turns off 1. to a temple of Kwannon, built in a cave, which is considered the chief wonder of the country-side. At the temple, the name of which is KyorjKiji, a guide is provided. The CavCt which is close by, con- sists of two chief ramifications in the limestone rock, and is ren- dered fairly easy walking, or rather creeping, by means of ladders and planks. The stalactites in it take a variety of fantastic shapes to which realistic names are given, such as the five viscera, the breasts, the dragon's tail and head, the lotus-flower, etc. As usual, Kobo Daishi gets the credit of having discovered this wonderful place. The inspection of the cave occupies about J hr. The exit is within a few min. walk of Hashitate, on the way to Umi-no-kuohi in Shinshu by the Jiimon-toge, whence it is a distance of 18^ ri to Kofu over the Tsuyu- tare pass (see p. 138), with the option of ascending Akadake and Gongen-dake^ — the latter, the most southerly of the numerous peaks collectively known as Yatsu-ga-take.

1.40

Route 12, — Tfie Talmsakl-Yolcokawa Fuiilway,

Buko-zan may be ascended from Omiya ; but there is no special at- traction in the ascent, and no view obtainable from its forest-covered summit. Hikawa, situated in the valley of the Tamagawa (see p. 126), about 11 ri from Omiya, may be reached by a path over the Sen- gen-t5ge. But the most interesting route for mountain enthusiasts is that to Koshu by the Karizaka-toge. The distance is variously estimated at from 23 ri to 28 ri. At Kama- gaway 11 ri from Omiya, good ac- commodation can be obtained, and at Sashide carriages may be en- gaged to Kofu, a distance of 3^ ri.

ROUTE 12.

The Tokyo -Takasaki-Yokokawa Railway. [Maebashi.] Isobe. Myogi-san.

Distance

from Tokyo.

Names

of Stations.

#

Remarks.

4 m.

6

13

17

22 24

29 34 38 46 51 56

63

64} 69

7H

771 80^

TOKV:o(Ueno). Oji.

Akabane Jet

Urawa.

Omiya Jot

CUp trains

< change for L Yokohama.

C Change for ■5 Nikko and C the North.

See p. 96.

rOhange for

< Karuizawa (. & Maebanhi.

|Alight for i Myogi-san.

Ageo. Okegawa. Kdnosu

Pukiage.

Kumagai.

Fnkaya.

Honj6.

Shimmachi.

TAKASAKI Jet

lizuka. Annaka.

Isobe

Matsuida. YOKOKAWA.

The construction of this line of railway, intended to lead over the Usui-toge to Karuizawa and connect with the Karuizawa-Naoetsu line, has been temporarily suspended at Yokokawa, near the foot of the pass, owing to engineering difficulties. The line closely follows the first stages of the old Nakasendo (see Route 39), and is flat and uninter- esting till TakasaJd Junction is passed.

Urawa (InUy Yamaguchi-ya) is the seat of government of the prefec- ture of Saitama, which includes the greater part of the province of Musashi except Tokyo.

Omiya (Inn, Takashima-ya in the Public Garden supplies foreign food). An avenue of 1 m. in lenglh leads to the Hikawa no Jinja, the chief Shinto temple of the province of Musashi, situated in grounds which have been turned into a public garden. The temple is said to have been founded in honour of Susano-o by Yamato-take, on his return from subduing the barbarous tribes of the East. Leaving Omiya, the first place of importance reached is

Kumagai (Inn, Shimizu - ya), which carries on a large trade in silk and cotton. This town possesses historical interest in connection with the warrior Kumagai Naozane (see p. 42). At

Honjo (Inn, Moroi) there are some important cross - country roads, one of which joins the Rei- heishi Kaidb, the route formerly followed by the Mikado's annual envoy to the shrine of leyasu at Nikko, but no^ for the most part deserted by travellers.

Shimmachi (Inn, Mitsumata) is a large silk producing place.

Takasaki (Inn, Sakai-ya ; Restt., Sumiyoshi, at station) was formerly the castle- town of a Daimyo, and is still an important industrial centre.

[The railway branches off here to Maebashi, 6 m., where it meets the Byomo line from Oyama (see Boute 15). Maebashi

Isohe, Myogi'San,

141

{IiinSj Akagi-tei, foreign food ; Abura-ya), formerly the seat of a great Daimyo named Matsu- daira Yamato-no-Kami, is now the capital of the prefecture of Gumma, and an important centre of the silk trade, one of the best qualities of raw silk being named after the town. To the N. rises the extinct vol- cano of Akagi-san, and W. is the curious group of mountains col- lectively called Haruna, on the N. Hank of which are situated the fashionable baths of Ikao, described in Koute 14.]

liziika is a station at the W. end of Takasaki, some distance from the business part of the town. It is on one of the roads to Ikao.

Isobe (InnSy *Ky6ju-kwan, Haya- shi-ya, and others). This is the best station to alight at for a visit to the Remarkable conglomeration of rocks crowning Myogi-san. The inns are in all respects pleasanter than those at the vill. of Myogi at the foot of the mountain. But travel- lers coming eastwards from Karui- zawa may alight at Matsuida, tbe station beyond, the distance from each of these two places to Myogi being about the same. Isobe is reached in 4 hrs. by rail, and My5gi by toad in 1 hr. more ; and as less than a day is required for seeing the marvels of the moun- tain, the journey from the capital and back may thus be accomplished in a day and a half.

Isobe is a watering-place of recent growth, lying in a wide valley less than 1,000 ft. above the level of the sea. Exposed as it is on all sides, it is neither mild in winter nor cool in summer. The mineral waters of Isobe contain a large quantity of carbonic acid gas, and, nnlike most other Japanese springs, ace beneficial to persons suJSering from catarrh of the stomach and other internal complaints. On the road to Myogi, a good view is obtained of Akagi-san and Haruna- san to the N., and Asama-yama to

the W. If the visit be made in autumn, the precipitous sides of the MyOgi range will be found in a glow of rich colour arising from the crimson tints of the maples th^t mingle with the variegated leaves of other trees, and render the scene one of beauty as well as weirdness.

Mydgi (InnSf Shishiya, Kambe- ya) is an insignificant village.

The shrine at MyOgi is dedicated to the memory of the 18th abbot of Enryaknji, a temple on Hiei-zan near Kydto, who, ia the reign of the Emperor Daigo ( A.D. 808- 930), retired here to mourn over the sudden downfall and banishment of his pupil, the famous Sugawara-no-Michisane. After his death, he was deified under the title of Myogi Dai Gongen. Over two centuries ago, a fresh fit of zeal on the part of his devotees was the cause of the shrine being rebuilt in the grand style of which the traces still remain. It is now in charge of Shinto priests.

The temple stand a shorts distance above the village, in the midst of a grove of magnificent crypto- merias. The Oku-no-in is 25 nM further up the mountain, and above this the clifis are nearly per- pendicgalar. A rocky cave, formed by a huge block resting in a fissure^ contains an image of the god. On the summit of one of the j uttiri^ peaks near the Oku-no-in, is the enormous Chinese character ^ (dai)^ * great.* Its dimensions are stated at 80 ft. hf 20 ft., and it is constructed of thin bamboos tied together. It is covered with strips of paper, the votive ofierings of pilgrims, which give it the appearance from below of being painted white. The surrounding scenery is most romantic. From the bosom of a gloomy grove rise innumerable rocky pinnacles, grad- ually increasing in height round a lofty central peak, the whole vaguely recalling the front of some colossal Gothic cathedral.

Dr. Naumann describes Myogi- san as a system ol grand acute- edged, deeply serrated dykes, ap- parently radiating from a oommcm centre, whose highest smnmit is about 3,650 ft. in height. Pro- bably it is the skeleton of a ^veaj

W

142

Route 13, — Karidzuiva and Asamayama,

old volcano. The ascent of the highest peak visible from the vill. of My5gi can be accomplished in less than half a day. To scale this peak is a rather dangerous undertaking. Those, however, who can appreciate the delights of rough and difficult climbing, ought not to miss the opportunity of mounting Hakun- zan, the jagged ridge rising directly above the village. The S. wing is called Kinkei-san ; Kinto-san is be- tween the two. The highest point of Myogi-san is behind Hakun-zan. Bdsokit-ishij * the Candle-Stone,' is a conspicuous projection belonging to Kinkei-san and forming the N.W. termination of this dyke. It takes about 1^ hr. to get from the vill. to Daikoku-san, where is a small shrine at the foot of the Hige- suri-iwa, or * Beard- Scraping Rock,' a slender column of volcanic breccia. The last 10 ft. of the climb up the Hige-suri-iwa is achieved with the assistance of an iron chain and ladder fixed in the rock. From this coign of vantage, the lofty peak of Naka-no-take and many other curious rocks are visible. The way to Daikoku-san leads over the pass between Kinkei-sao and Kinto-san. A gigantic natural arch, called Ichi no Sekhnon^ is passed on this way. Kurakake-san is of smaller size and higher up. Ni no Sekimon and San no Seki- mon are clefts in the mountain, further on, reached after a break- neck climb. The perforation in Ni-no-Sekimon is invisible from this side of the mountain, but is to be seen from Yokokawa and the Usui- toge. According to local tradition, the hole was made by an arrow shot from the bow of a certain Yuri- waka Daijin while standing at the vill. of Yokokawa. The modern- looking edifice below the Hige-Suri- iwa was built for the priests, after the burning of the two temples there in 1872.

Leaving ^lyogi, the railway may be rejoined at Matsaida; or else

one may walk on for 2 ri to a, point a little further along the Nakasendo near

Yok<»kiiwa {Inns, *Ogino-ya, Ko- dake-ya, both at the station).

ROUTE 13. Karuizawa and Asama-yama.

1. — Kabuizawa and Neighbour- hood.

Karuizawa is reached from Tokyo by the Tokyo Takasaki-Yokokawa Railway, 4^ hrs. to the present ter- minus, Yokokawa. A new section, carrying the line over the Usui Pass, is now in course of construction. From Yokokawa onwards there is a choice of roads, namely : —

I. The carriage road, also used for jinrikishas and for the horse tramway. This road does not pass the old vill. of Karuizawa, but crosses further south to Shin-Ka- ruizawa (New Karuizawa). The cars, small and uncomfortable, but nevertheless the best means of conveyance, take 2^ hrs. to make the journey, which, owing to the narrowness of the gauge, the ser- pentine windings of the road, the precipitous slopes skirted on one side and the jagged rocks on the other, is of a somewhat exciting character. The distance traversed by car is 11^ miles. Shin- Karuizawa {Inn, Abura-ya) is J hr. by jinrikisha from the old vill. (Kyu-Karuizawa).

II. The pedestrian road, leading over the summit of the pass, and only just practicable for jinrikishas. It is, however, excellent for walking, the soil being a combination of vol- canic matter, clay, and sand,.which is very porous and binds well. This road is a favourite one with the summer visitors to Karuizawa. The pass is thickly wooded ; but views of the extensive plain below, with

Kaniizaira.

148

the rocky peaks of Myogi-san on the r. and the bolder mountains of Kotsuke on the 1. (looking back), are obtained at several points during the ascent. From the half-way tea-houses, the road winds gradually up to the summit, 6 m. from Yokokawa, and commands a fine prospect of the extinct volcanoes of Haruna and Akagi, Tsukuba-san, and the precipitous rocks on the S. of the pass which form the boundary between Kotsuke and Shin- shu. On the summit of the pass (4,050 ft.), there are a few houses and a small temple. The view from the steps of the shrine, although extensive, is so often obscured by clouds of mist sweeping over the summit, that the traveller has but a rare chance of enjoying a clear prospect.

In this spot is localised the following le^nd, which is preserved in the Kqjiki .—

When Yamato-take was crossing from Sagami to Kazusa in the course of his expedition against the barbarous tribes who then inhabited that region, (he ridi- culed) the name of Ua»hiri-mizu (Running water) given to the strait, and exclaimed that it was no more than an easy jump across. The Sea-Gorl, offended at this insult, so disturbed the waters that Ya- mato-take's ship was unable to advance. Upon this, his consort Oto-Tachibana- Hime said to him, ' I will drown myself in your stead '—and as she plunged into the sea, the waves became still. Seven days afterwards her comb floated ashore. ITie prince built a tomb, and deposited the comb therein. In returning to the capital after subduing the triljes, he stopped to rest at the top of the Usui Pass, and gazing over the plain, said thrice in a melancholy voice : 'Azvma «Yr. ya'CAlas! my wife'), whence the name of Aznma by which Eastern Japan is still known.

Kjrfi-Knrnizawa (Imiy Bansho- kwan) lies in the upper corner of a grassy moor, 780 ft. below the summit of the pass. During the descent, Asama-yama, the Koslm Shirane-san and Koma-ga-take, Ya- tsu-ga-take, and Tateshina-yama come into view. The vill. was in former times principally dependent upon travellers over the ancient highway, and appears to have just escaped ruin, after the construction

of the railway, by a number of the foreign residents of Tokyo making it a retreat from the imhealthy heat of the city during the summer months. The old inns have been hired, and a few new villas built on the moun- tain slopes. Its lofty situation (3,270 ft.) gives it a temperature seldom excessive during the day, and invariably cool at night. The rainfall, although heavy, bears favourable comparison with Nikko and other mountain resorts, and owing to the porous nature of the soil in the vicinity, leaves fewer traces behind. The place is never- theless not free from mosquitoes, and the small sand-fly called buyu abounds, — an insect which inflicts a bite, painless at flrst, but afterwards extremely irritable and liable to swell during several succeeding days. Bread, milk, and occasionally beef and flsh are obtainable. An un- cultivated moor, covered with wild- flowers in July and August, extends for miles in a southerly direction, while on theE.it terminates in a range of grassy hills.

The chief excursion from Karui- zawa is the ascent of Asama-yama (seep. 144). There is also a variety of shorter walks, viz.

1. Ata^o-yama. This isolated hill, 20 min. walk from the vill., is ascended by two flights of stone steps, and has some curious perpen- dicular rocks half-way up.

2. Ilaniire-yania, about 1 m. off. On its E. side, near the summit, is a large cave inhabited by bats. It may be reached in about an hour by a very rough climb up a precipitous landslip. The view from the narrow ledge at the mouth of the cave is extensive.

3. Iriyaiiia-toge, 1 hr. by the base of the hills skirting the moor, and past the curious rock called Kamado-iwa by the Japanese, and ' Pulpit Rock ' by foreigners. The summit commands probably the finest view obtainable of the valley leading to the base of Myogi-san, and, looking backwards, of the wide

144

Route 13, — Karuizawa and Asama-yama^

stretch of moorland and Asama- yama.

4. Wami-togr^. From the foot of the Iriyama-t5ge, the path keeps to the r., and in 40 min. more the road from Oiwake over the Wami- toge is reached. The ascent is easy. After a short hut steep descent on the opposite side, a path 1. leads to the hamlet of Ongawa situated at the base of the Rdsoku-iway aptly re -named by foreigners the * Cathe- dral Bocks,' and remarkable for the petrified wood found in the neigh- bourhood. It is possible to return direct over the mountains to the Karuizawa plain, but the path is difficult to find. This excursion occupies the greater part of a day.

5. Yiinosawa^ ^ hr., by a path leading from the centre of the vill. towards Asama-yama. In the small house here a bath may be had, tepid mineral water being brought from the hill beyond. Continuing along the same path, which soon leads over more elevated ground and passes through beautiful stretches of forest, the baths of

6. Kose are reached in about an hour. Kose is a tiny hamlet in a hollow of the hills, but possess- es a commodious inn and good baths. A very fair road has been built from Kose to Kutsukake on the Nakasend5, a walk of 45 min. Kutsukake is 3f m. from Karuizawa.

7. Kiiit.su mi ( Inn^ * Chosai- kwan). The thermal springs of this place are reached after a 3 hrs. walk over the Usui Pass. Not far from the summit a narrow path turns 1., leading up and down a suc- cession of wooded mountain gorges, till the final descent is made into the vale in which Kiritsumi nestles at a height of 2,700 ft. The baths may be more conveniently reached by a jinrikisha road from Yokokawa, 2^ ri. The way is pretty, but the view is shut out on all sides. The water of Kiritsumi is slightly saline, with a temperature of 104 F. Higher up, in a neighbouring

valley, is the old-fashioned water- ing-place of Irinoyu with accom- modation only for peasant guests. The baths are sulphureous and have a high temperature.

2. — ASAMA-TAMA.

Asama-ynifia (8,280 ft.) is not only the largest active volcano in Japan, but also the most accessible. The excursion to the top and back may be made from Karuizawa in one day.

The last great eruption occurred in the summer of 1783, when a vast stream of lava destroyed a primeval forest of con- siderable extent, together with several villages on the N. ^ide. Subsequent eruptions have produced mere showers of ashes. At the foot of the steep cone the subterranean disturbances can be distinctly heard, and the sulphureous exhalations near the summit often make this part of the ascent very oppressive.

The ascent from the Wdkasare- no-Chayay a hut on the road to Kusatsu, is the one now usually made, and is certainly the least fatiguing. The best plan is to hire a horse at Karuizawa, where foreign saddles may be procured, ride via Kutsukake (Inrij Tsuchi-ya) to Ko- Asama (2^ hrs.), the small excres- cence on the mountain side, and walk up by the Wakasare-no-chaya path. The climb is steep, but the path a good solid one of cinders, marked at intervals by small cairns. The time taken to the edge of the crater is about 2 hrs.

The crater is circular, about | m. in circumference, with per- pendicular honeycombed and burnt red sides, generally full of sul- phureous steam welling up from the bottom and from the crevices in its sides. On the S. side of the moun- tain rise two precipitous rocky walls, separated by 9. considerable interval, the outer one being lower and nearly covered with vegetation. They seem to be the remains of two successive concentric craters, the existing cone being the third and most recent. The nearer is quite bare, and columnar in structure at the centre. The side of the cone is

•r

Boiite 14, — Ikao, Kitsatsu, and NeiyhhourhooiL

145

Btrewn with large rough fragments of loose lava, and unfathomable rifts extend for the greater part of the way down to its base. The view from the summit is very ex- tensive:— to the N., the whole of the Kotsuke mountains with the Haruna group and Akagi-san ; the Nikk6 range and the E. range dividing Shinshu from Kotsuke ; the sea far away in the distance ; next the Koshu mountains on the S., with Fuji peering over them ; the conical Yatsu-ga- take and adjacent summits of Koshu ; and then on the W., the huge range that forms the boundary between Shinshu and Hida. The descent to the Waka- sare-no-chaya takes about 1} hr.

Another way up, occupying about 5^ hrs., is from Oiwake {Inn, Naka- mura-ya), a vill. on the Nakasendo, 2 rt 14 cho from Karuizawa, and formerly a place of some note, but much deteriorated since railway enterprise diverted the traffic from the highway. On leaving Oiwake, the path ascends gently through sloping meadows covered with wild- flowers ; then the acclivity becomes greater, and gritty ash is reached. At an elevation of 1,145 ft. above Oiwake, is a cascade hidden among the trees that skirt a deep gorge. The height of the fall is about 18 ft.; the red colour of the water and of the underlying rock — volcanic" breccia covered with a red crust — give it a strange appearance. At a height of 8,225 ft. above Oiwake, all vegetation ceases. For 1,600 ft. more, the path proceeds up a steep ascent of loose ash to the edge of the outer ridge, which from the vill. below appears to be the summit, though in reality below it. The path then descends, and crosses over to the base of the present cone, which is more easily climbed.

Dr. Rein recommends ascending from KomorOf a station on the Kaniizawa-Naoetsu line, 13^ m. from Karuizawa. This ascent joins the path from Oiwake at the little cascade mentioned above.

ROUTE 14.

Ikao, Kusatsu, and Neighbour- hood.

1. ikao. 2. walks and excursions from ikao: haruna, the hot springs of shima, ikao to asama- yama. 8. kusatsu. 4. walks in the neighbourhood of kusa- tsu. 5. from kusatsu to nagano over the shibu-tooe, ascent of shirane-san, the torii-toge.

1. — Ikao.

Ikao is a short day's journey from Tokyo (Ueno station) to Maie- bashi by the Takasaki-Maebashi Railway in 3^ hrs. (see p. 140) ; thence 6 ri 8 cJio (15 m.) partly by tram, partly by carriage or jinriki- sha, but jinrikisha the whole way to be preferred at present. The latter part of the ride is uphill, so that two men are indispensable.

Hotels. — *Muramatsu, • KindayB, European style. There are also the Budaiyu, Chigura, Shimada Hachi- ro, and other good inns in Japanese style.

Ikao, one of the best summer resorts in Japan, is built on ter- races along the N. E. slope of Mount Haruna, at an elevation varying from 2,500 to 2,700 ft. The picturesque main street, which di- vides the vill. into an eastern and a western part, consists of. one near- ly continuous steep flight of steps. The houses W. of the steps border on a deep ravine called the Yusawa, through which rushes a foaming tor- rent. Ikao has the advantage of cool nights, absence of mosquitoes, and an unusually beautiful situation, offering from nearly every house a grand view of the valleys of the Agatsuma-gawa and Tonegawa, and of the high mountain-ranges on the border of the great plain in which Tokyo is situated. From no other place can the Nikko mountains be seen to such ad-

146

Boiite 14, — Ikao and KnHatm,

vantage. It is famous for its mineral springs, which have a temperature of 45° C. (115° F.), and which contain a small amount of iron and sulphate of soda. The springs have been known since prehistoric times. According to the Japanese style of bathing, the hot baths are made use of several times a day, and indiscriminately by patients of every description. Late- ly the water has been used for drinking purposes, but it has little more efiect than pure hot water.

2. — Walks and Excursions from Ikao.

1. Along the Yusawa ravine to Yiiinoto, about ^ m., nearly level. Yu-moto means lit., * the source of the hot water.' Seats are erected for the accommodation of visitors, who resort there lo drink of the mineral spring. The water, which at its source is quite clear, has a slightly inky taste. On being ex- posed to the air the carbonic acid evaporates, and part of the iron which the water contains is preci- pitated as a yellowish mass. This covers the bed of the river and the bottom of the aqueduct, and gives the water in the baths a thick, discoloured appearance. The people, who have great faith in the strength- ening effects of this precipitated iron salt, place large strips of cotton cloth in the stream. When the cloth has assumed a deep yellow 'colour, it is taken out, dried, and used as a belt round the body. The mineral water is led down to Ikao from Yusawa in bamboo pipes.

2. Up Konipira-snii, ihr. climb. Though of no great height, the top commands an extensive view, stretching from Shirane-san near Kusatsu to Tsukuba-san in Hitachi, and including the Mikuni and Nikko ranges, Akagi-san, and the valley of the Tonegawa. Just below the summit, a narrow path leads over the ridge to Futatsu-dake.

3. To Miishi*yii (lit., 'the steam

bath '), so called from the sulphur- eous gases which here emanate from holes in the ground, over which huts have been erected for the treatment of rheumatic patients. The number of naked people gene- rally standing about at Mushi-yu makes this place unsightly. The time taken to reach the baths is about f hr. Sengen-yama, Fu- tatsu-dake, and Soma may all be ascended from Mushi-yu. The view from the top of Soma (4,500 ft. above the sea level, 1,800 ft. above Ikao) is magnificent. The summit of Fuji appears over the Chichibu mountains nearly due S. To the W. of it are seen the Koshu Shirane, the Koma-ga-take's of Koshii and Shinshii seemingly in close proximity, then Yatsu-ga- take, Ontake about W. S. W., Asa- ma-yama a little to the S. of W., Yahazu-yama W. N. W., then the Shirane of Kusatsu, and a part of the Hida-Shinshii range. Eastwards rise Tsukuba-san and the Shirane of Nikko, with one of the peaks of Akagi-san half-way between them. The town of Maebashi is visible to to the E. S. E., with the Tonegawa half encircling it, before pursuing its course down the plain. Soma may also be ascended from the path to Haruna.

4. To the pretty little waterfall of Renteri-daki, on the stream which issues from Lake Haruna ; 1 hr. easy walking.

5. To Hnriina, about 4 m. to the lake, and 1^ m. more on to the temple. This is by far the prettiest expedition from Ikao. Most people will prefer to walk, but it is possible for a jinrikisha to get there : better take 8 coolies.

[On the way to Haruna, a con- spicuous conical hill called the Haruna Fuji is passed, the ascent of which occupies about I hr. from the place where the path diverges. The near view from the summit is very beautiful, showing the

Ilaruna. Shiiiia. Kuxatsu.

147

lake and surroundiDg moun- tains to great advantage. The distant prospect includes most of the view already described as seen from Soma. — The best plan is to make of this a separate expedition. There is grazing-ground for cattle on this little Fuji. It is there that the milch -cows that supply Ikao are kept.]

Lake Harnna, which apparently occupies the site of an extinct crater, contains salmon and other fish. On its border is a tea-house where one may lunch. From the lake it is a short and easy ascent to the top of a pass called the Tefijin-toge, some 800 ft. above Ikao, commanding an extensive view. From the Tenjin-tdge the path descends a wooded glen to the ancient Shinto temple of Haruna, situated amongst precipi- tous and overhanging volcanic rocks, in a grove of lofty cryptomerias. It is dedicated to Ho-musubi, the God of Fire, and Haniyasu-hime, the Goddess of Earth. Over the princi- pal building, which is decoratjed with excellent wood-carvings (espe- cially two dragons twined round the side-beams of the porch), hangs a huge rock supported on a slender base, which seems every moment to threaten the temple with destruc- tion. The whole site is one of the most weird and fantastic that can be imagined, nature appearing to have lain a wager here to per- form quaint feats in stone, the least malleable of all materials.

6. The hot springs of Sliima lie nearly 8 ri from Ikao, so that an expedition there involves staying the night. Shima may most con- veniently be taken en route to Kusa- tsu, the way being the same as far as 20 cho past Nakanojo, on the road to Sawatari. Jinrikishas can be taken, but must occasionally be alighted from. Shima includes two hamlets, called respectively Yama- guchi Onsen and Arai-yu, 8 cho

distant from each other. Travel- lers are recommended not to stay at the former, but to go on to Arai- yu and put up at the inn kept by Tamura MosaburO. The hamlet is picturesquely situated close to the river, on whose bank the springs which supply the baths gush forth. Travellers not returning to Ikao, but going on to Sawatari, need not pass again through Nakanojo, as there is a shorter cut from a place called Kimino. It is, however, scarcely passable for jinrikishas.

7. To Asama-yama. It is a 2 days' trip from Ikao to the volcano. The first day takes one by jinrikisha to lizuka (the station at the W. end of Takasaki), 7 ri 8 choy whence train to Yokokawa and tram to Karuizawa, where sleep. For the ascent on the second day see p. 144.

An alternative way for the pedes- trian on the first day, is to go over the mountains from Ikao vi& Haru- na-san to Kami Moroda, Sangen- jaya, and Matsuida statioui, — a splendid day's walk. From Matsu- ida to Karuizawa, train and tram, as above. Matsuida is also the sta- tion for MyOgi-san (see p. 141).

3. KUSATSU.

The stalwart pedestrian can walk over from Ikao to Kusatsu in one long day w'lk Gochoda, Nakanojd, Sawatari, and Namazu,-^a delight- fully picturesque expedition of 11^ ri (28 m.), or else one may take a pack-horse. There is no good ac- commodation to be had on the way ; but should a break in the journey become indispensable, Sawatari (Inn^ Shin Kanoya), a small bathing vill. 6 ri 9 cho from Ikao, will pro- bably be found the least uncom- fortable place at which to spend the night.

An alternative way from Ikao to Kusatsu is vi& the hamlets of Go- choda, Haramachi, Yokoya, and Na- ganohara, a distance of nearly 14 rL This way is much recommended

us

Route 14. — Ikiio and Kasatsu,

on account of thfe beautiful scenery of portions of the valley of the Agatsuma-gawa. It is practicable for jinrikishas from Gochoda to Yokoya, and for pack-horses the remainder of the way. There is no accommodation on the way until reaching Naganohara.

Kusatsu can also easily be reached from Tokyo by taking the railway to Karuizawa (see p. 140), whence it is an 11 ri journey across the open, park-like country lying at the base of Asama-yama. Another way from Tokyo — both convenient and pretty — is by rail to Toyono near Nagano on the Karuizawa-Naoetsu Railway, and thence vi& Shibu, as explained on p. 149. Both these latter ways take 2 days from Tokyo.

Kusatsu, (3,800 ft. above sea- level), whose trim, cleanly ap- pearance strongly recalls that of a village in the Tyrol, is the coolest of Japan's summer resorts, and mos- quitoes are altogether unknown. Visitors who, attracted by these con- siderations, may think of spending any time there, must however re- member that the mineral waters are specially efficacious — not only in rheumatism, and, as recently dis- covered by Dr. Baelz, in gout — but in syphilis, leprosy, and other loath- some diseases. Indeed, the effect of the waters at first is to bring out new sores more plentiful than the old, and the horrors that walk the streets must be seen to be believed. The chief constituents of the Kusa- tsu springs are mineral acids, sulphur, and arsenic. Some of the springs are cold; the temperature of others is extremely high, ranging from 113° to 130° Fahrenheit, ac- cording to the spring. Even the Japanese, inured as they are to hot baths, find their courage fail them ; and the native invalids are therefore taken to bathe in squads under a semi-military discipline to which they voluntarily submit. Most curious is the sort of ohorio chant which takes place between the bathers and their leader on

entering and while sitting in the bath, a trial which, though lasting only from 3^ to 4 minutes, seems au eternity to their festering, agonised bodies. First of all, the bathers are made to pour hot water over their heads many times, to avoid the risk of congestion. After the lapse of about one minute, the leader cries out, and the others all res- pond in unison. After a little he cries out, * Three minutes have passed.' — * Three minutes ! ' re- echoes the chorus. After another half-minute or so, *Two minutes more I ' then * One minute more ! * the chorus answering each time with an inarticulate murmur. At last the leader cries * Finished ! ' whereupon the whole mass of naked bodies leap out of the water with an alacrity which he who has witnessed their slow, pain- ful entry into the place of torture would scarcely have credited. The usual plan, after a course of the Kusatsu baths, is to go for the * after-cure * to Sawatari, 6 ri 9 cho distant, where the waters have a softening effect on the skin, and quickly alleviate the terrible irrita- tion which the acids contained in the Kusatsu waters produce. Of late years, foreigners have shown a tendency to desert Sawatari in favour of Shibu (see p. 149), which is one of the cleanest watering-places in Japan, indeed a little paradise.

Accommodation. — The character of the patients who resort to Kusa- tsu makes it incumbent on the traveller to exercise great care in the selection of his hostelry; and if he intends to make a lengthened stay, he is advised to take every- thing with him, even bedding. The best house to stay at is Ichii^ at the far-end of the village, — rooms nice, baths separate and not too hot ; charge (in 1890), 91.50 per diem for the room alone, $40 by the month. Yamamoto Yuhikoro, and Kuroiwa may also be recommended. Ichii and Yamamoto have each a de- tached cottage to let, and any of the

Neighbourhood of Kusatsu.

149

inns will assist the traveller to ob- tain rooms at the temple, which stands close to the school and is quite out of reach of objectionable patients. The daily bath-tax, which allows one to bathe in any or all the springs any number of times a day, " was, in the summer of 1890, 1 sen 8 ri», or less than a penny.

4. — Walks in the Neighbourhood , OF Kusatsu.

1. To the solfatara of Sessho- gawnra^ on the ^ slope of Moto- Shirane, about 1 ri.

2. To Sai-no-Kawara and Kori-

daui^ 20 cho. The meaning of the name Sai-no-Kawara is * the river- bed of souls.' On its numerous rocks and boulders, small stones have been piled up by visitors as oflEerings to dead children. Among these rocks is one called Yiirugi- Ishij which, notwithstanding its- being a huge boulder, is so nicely balanced that it can be moved by the hand. Kori-dani is so-called from the frozen snow which is to be found there even during the dog-days.

3. To the small Shinto-shrine of Snira (Suwa-no-jinja), 25 cho.

4. Via Suwa-no-jinja, Higane, Eiyozuka, and Hikinuma, to Han a- shiki near Iriyama, where the hot springs spurting up in the middle of the cold stream afford the means for a bath of an unwontedly two- fold character. About 2^ ri,

5. Part of the way to Otokii, up a pathless hill to a place which, just above thirty-three stone images of Kwannon, offers a magnificent pano- rama of the whole neighbouring country. Distance, about 1 ri; on to Otoku, about 20 cho more.

6. To Xaniao, 1 ri.

7. To Kosame^ IJ ri on the way to Sawatari.

8. To Uikage. 2 ri,

9- To San-no-sawa> 25 cho on the way to Elaruizawa, and through

a splendid forest to Haneo or to Maeguchi, 20 cho more. Or else to San-no-sawa by the new road, which skirts Moto-Shirane and is therefore somewhat longer. A path leads hence, 10 cho, up one of the spurs of Moto-Shirane to a small stone shrine with a fine view of Asama-yama and other mountains,

5. — KUSATSU TO NAGANO OVER THE SHIBU-TOGE, INCLUDING ASCENT OP SHIRANE-SAN. THE TORII-TOGE.

Itinerary.

KUSATSU to :— Bi\ Cho. M. Top of the Shibu-

toge 2 32 7

SHIBU 3 22 8J

Toy ono (Station).... 3 — 7| NAGANO 2 29 6J

Total 12 11 30

On foot or on pack-horse as far as Shibu (2,250 ft. above the sea) ; thence carriage to Toyono ; thence train to Nagano.

This route affords very pretty scenery. Including the ascent of Shirane-san, which is a noteworthy volcano, the whole journey takes a little more than 1 day. The best plan is to leave Kusatsu early, and sleep at Sllibli (Inny *Tsubata-ya), catching the train at Toyono in the forenoon of the next day. Those who do not care to visit the temple of Zenkoji at Nagano, can either continue on by rail to Karuizawa and Tokyo, or'toNaoetsu on the Sea of Japan. The route is one special- ly recommended to those who have been taking the sulphur baths at Kusatsu. Instead of going for the * after - cure ' to Sawatari — the usual Japanese routine — they can stay en route at Shibu, where there are thermal springs suitable to their needs, and be far more comfortable.

The picturesqueness of the road from Kusatsu to Shibu is purchased at the expense of many steep hills. On the other hand, those who go on

150

Route 15. — The Ryonw Hailway,

horseback will find that they can ride right into the crater of Shirane- san without needing to dismount. It is 3 hrs. from Kusatsu to the summit of the cone, which is 6,600 ft. above the level of the sea, and 3,000 ft. above Kusatsu. The crater is oval in shape, its longer diameter being about 600 yds., its breadth 150 yds. to 200 yds. The walls are very steep ; but on the E. side is a depression, — that through which, as already noticed, travellers can enter. The sight of the large sul- phureous lake, bubbling and seeth- ing, is most remarkable. The descent from the top of the pass to the vill. of Shibu is long and steep, with picturesque views of the river gorges. On the way down, the following mountains come in sight : MyOko-zan in Echigo, Kurohime, Togakushi-san, and Izuna.

An alternative way to Nagano from Kusatsu is over the Yamada- to^e, which is comparatively short, and where the baths of Yamada may be visited. Another is over the Torli-togfi. Both of these descend to the vill. of Suzaka, where jinrikishas can be obtained. The itinerary of the Torii-toge route, part of which is picturesque, is as follows :

KUSATSU to;— BL Cho, M.

Mihara 2 6 5i

Ozasa 2 30 7

Tashiro 1 18 3J

Torii-toge 30 2

Nire 4 24 11^

Suzaka 1 29 4|

NAGANO 3 11 8

Total 17 4 41|

KOUTE 15. The Ry5m6 Railway.

TEMPLE-CA"S^S OP IZURU. ASCEin? OF AKAGI-SAN.

Distance

from Tokyo.

Names

of Stations.

Remarks.

48 m.

54J 60

64^

71}

77 81

83

87 91 9ii 994

TOKYO (Ueno). Oyama

( See Northern ] Railway, ( Route 24.

(•Alight for -< c a ve s of C Izuru.

(Road to Nik- < kobyWata- rase-gawa.

Tochigi. Iwafune.

SANO

Ashikaga.

Omata,

Kirya.

OMAMA

Kunisada. Isesaki. Komakata. MAEBASHI.

This line of railway, branching oS. from the Northern line at Oyama, which is reached in 2^ hrs. from Tokyo, traverses the provinces of Kotsuke and Shimotsuke. It af- fords an alternative, though longer, railway route from Tokyo to Mae- bashi, and is the easiest way of reaching the hot springs of Ikao in one day from Nikko. The scenery is pretty all along the route.

Tochig'i (InnSj Kanahan, Yoshi- kawa-ya) is one of the most im- portant towns in Shimotsuke. Its chief product is hempen thread.

Sano or TemmyO {IniiSt Saito, Kiku-ya) is a pretty and prosperous place. Its Public Park lies close to the station. There also exist the ruins of a castle built by Hidesato about 900 years ago.

[From Sano an excursion may be made to the very curious limestone caverns of Izuru, where a temple dedicated to Kwannon was founded by Sho- d5 Shoniu in the 8th centuiy.

Caves of Izuru, Aka<ji-san,

151

In these caves the saint is fabled to have taken up his ^bode, and passed three years in prayer and meditation. They Are about 6 ri distant from Sano on a mountain route to Nikko. Jinrikishas are prac- ticable most of the way to the caves. From the vill. of IzurUj it is a walk of 2 did up a ravine to the cave called Daishi no Twayat the mouth of which is high up amongst the precipi- tous rocks, and is only to be reached by ladders. Further on is the cave sacred to Kwannon, reached by climbing over steep rocks with the assistance of chains, and then by ladders up to a platform on which stand £ome images of Daikoku and Shodo Shonin. The guide lights candles and shows the way into the cave, which con- tains a large stalactite, sup- posed to resemble a back view of the body of Kwannon. The cave is evidently much deeper, but pilgrims do not usually go further in. Close by is a hollow in the rock, with two issues. The guide climbs up a ladder to the upper hole, gets inside, and after a minute or two appears, head first, out of the lower. Half a chd further i^ another cave, named after the god Dainichi Nyorai, and having two branches, — one about 50 yds. deep, the other penetrating an unknown dis- tance into the mountain.

The silk goods produced at Sano, although similar in kind to those of Ashikaga, are much finer in quality.

Ash&agst (Innsy Hatsugai, Saga- mi-ro) is a great centre of the trade in native cotton goods, mostly woven however from foreign yarns.

Afihikaga is celebrated for its Academy •*)£ Chinese learning {Athikaga GakkO), the foundation, of which institution is tradi- tionally ascribed to the eminent scholar Ono-no-Takamora (A.D. 801— a52). It reached the zenith of its prosperity in the time of the ShOgons of the Ashikaga

dynasty, its last great benefactor being' Uesngi Norizane wno died in 1573. Thi» Academy possessed a magnificent library of Chinese works, and was the chief centre of Chinese erudition and of the worship of Confucius, until the establishment of the Seido at Yedo. Most of the 1x)oks are now dispersed, but the image of Confucius still attracts visitors.

Kiryu (InnSj Yamane, Hayashi- ya) also is a large town, about 2 ri from its railway station. The chief products are crape, gauze, and a white silk called kabiUai which re- sembles tafEety.

Ouiaina (Iww, Tsuru-ya) is situat- ed near the foot of Akagi-san. Tho picturesque road from here to the copper mines of Ashio by tho valley of the Watarase-gawa is described in Route 17. Omama itself is a long straggling town, and, like the other places on this railway route, of little general interest, being entirely devoted to sericulture.

[The extinct volcano of Akagi- Siin may be ascended from the vill. of Ogo, 3 ri 9 did from Omama, whence the climb will take from 3^ to 4 hrs. About 3 hrs. from Ogo we reach a grassy knoll where the path divides, the 1. branch going to one of the peaks of Akagi known as Nabewari, the other leading to a lake. The peak rising just above this grassy knoll is Arayama, 4,830 ft. in height, which can be ascended in about f hr. The summit commands a grand panorama of mountains : —Fuji S. S. W., Kaigane-san (part of the Koshu Shirane-san) S. W., the numerous peaks of Yatsu-ga-take with Tateshina nearly W. S. W., Asama-yama due W., and the Kusatsu Shi- rane about W. N. W. Nearly due N. rises Hodaka-san, one of the loftiest peaks in Kotsuke, easily recognised by its double top. The descent from Ara- yama on the N. side is very steep, but not dangerous, and the path is well-marked. From the knoll above referred to»

152

Eoiite 16. — XiJcko and Neifjhhourhood,

the main path skirts the E. base of Arayama, and, travers- ing a grassy moorland basin, crosses a col to the temple (Daido) on the margin of the lake. About 2,000 yds. to the r. of the path is a tarn, called Koiinma, the level of which must be from 250 to 300 ft. higher than that of the larger lake.] Maeba^lii, see p. 140.

EOUTE 16.

' l^iKKo AND Neighbourhood.

1. GENERAL INFORMATION. 2. CHIEF OBJECTS OF INTEREST. MAUSOLEA OP lEYASU AND lEMITSU. 3. OB- JECTS OF MINOR INTEREST. 4. "WALKS IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD. 6. KEGON-NO-TAKI, CHUZENJI,.NAN- TAI-ZAN, ^UMOTO. 6. ASCENT OF O-MANAGO AND NANTAI-ZAN FROM YUMOTO.

1. — General Information.

Properly speaking, Nikko is the name, not of any single place, but of a whole mountainous district lying about 100 miles to the N. of Tokyo. Nevertheless, when people speak of going to Nikko, they generally mean going to the village of Hachi-ishif close to which are the celebrated Mausolea of loyasu and lemitsu, the 1st and 3rd Shoguns of the Tokugawa dynasty. Lying 2,000 ft. above the sea, Nikko is a delightful summer resort, for which reason many foreign residents of Tokyo have villas there, or else at Chuzenji (4,375 fb.) 7^ m. further on. The only drawback to the climate is the frequent rain. There is probably no other place in Japan which combines in so eminent a degree the beauties of art and the beauties

of nature. Within a radius of 15- m. there are no less than twenty -five or thirty pretty cascades. Nikko is noted, among other things, for the glorious tints of its autximn foliage.

Nikko is reached in 5 hrs. from Tokyo by the Northern Railway,. changing carriages at Utsunonaiya^ where the Nikko branch diverges.

Nikko Branch Line.

o

o

Eh.

65im.

79J 86f

90f

Names

.of Stations.

TOKYO (Ueno).

UTSUNOMIYA.

Top^mi. Kanuma. Fub»<8a.mi, Imnichi.

NIKKO (Hachi. ishi).

Remarks.

See Nortli- ern Bail- way, Route .24.

For a considerable distance, the railway runs close to the grand avenue of cryptomerias lining the ancient highway. As the traveller approaches Imaichi, he will notice on the 1. a second avenue of cryp- tomerias converging towards the rail- way line. Thisistho BeilieishiKaidd, so called because in old days the Reiheishij or Envoy of the Mikado,, used to travel along it, bearing gifts from his Imperial master to be offered at the Mausoleum of leyasu.

The village oUNikko being a very long one, and the railway only touching its lower end, there re- mains a stretch of about 2 m. to be done by jini^ikisha from the station to the hotel.

Hotels. — Nikko Hotel (foreign), in Irimachi beyond the village ; Koni- shi-ya, Aizu-ya, in the vill. A second large hotel in foreign style is being built near the upper end of the village.

Guides are in attendance at the Hotels, and will arrange for the pur- chase of tickets of admittance to the Mausolea. Additional small

History.

nz

charges are made at various points "Within the buildings. Means of conveyance. — Chairs, ' liagoSy or pack-horses can be taken

i' to such places as are not accessible by jinrikisha. There is a fixed , scale of charges.

Nikko produces skins, and various pretty articles made of a black 'iossil wood brought from Sendai in fethe north.

: History, — The range of mountains Known as Nikko-zan lies on the N.W. ■Ijoundary of the province of Shimotsuke. JThe orijfinal name was Fiita-am-i/ama, firhich, when written with Cliinese ideo-

fraphs, may also be pronounced Ni-k/j-zan. _ ccording to the popular account, the ime was derived from periodical hurri- ines in spring and autumn, which issued )m a great cavern on Nantai-zan, the mntain to the N. B. of ChUzenji. In LD. 820 Kobo Daishi visited the spot, ide a road to the neighbourhood of cavern, and changed the name of range to Nikko-zan, or 'Mountains it the Sun's Brightness,* from which noment the storms ceased to devastate tie country. Up to the end of the 17th fcntury, a family of Shinto priests named fno used to visit the cavern twice

EiTly to perform certain exorcisms, the ret of which hadbeen imparted to ir ancestor by Kobo Daishi. A cavern Ituated high up on the face of an in- issible cliff, just beyond the hamlet of a-gaeshi on the way to Chtlzenji, is ited out as the cave in question, sther explanation of the name Futa* yama, is that it means * The Two "ing Mountains,' in allusion to the volcanoes which form part of it, ., Nantai-zan and Shirane-san he- ld Yumoto. But though the latter iks out at frequent intervals, no erup- ts nave taken place from Nantai-zan khin memory of man. Vtom the earliest ages of which any

Etworthy record remains, a Shinto pie existed at Nikko, ^vhich was af ter- ia removed to Utsunomiya. In the •it 767, the first Buddhist temple was •cted by the saint Shodo Shonin. Later ^ in the beginning of the 9th century, Ko- iDaishi, and in the middle of the same ptary the abbot Jigaku Daishi, added rjkhe holy places. The following account ■8bed5 Shonin is summarised from a

eoir written by his disciples the year his death. He was born at Takaoka Wt the K. boundary of Shiraoi.sUke, the year 735. His parents had long Ited to have a son, and at l'«st their ^ was granted by the Thousand- pded Kwannon of the Izuru caves, to lOm they had prayed for offspring. tioaa portents accompanied his birth :

loud thunder was heard, a miraculous cloud hung over the cottage, flowers fell from heaven into the courtyard, and a strange perfume filled the air. From hia earliest years the saint was devoted to the worship of the gods, and amused him- self by raising toy pagodas and shrines of earth and stones, which gained for him the nickname of * temple builder ' among- his companions. In his twentieth year ho secretly quitted his father's house, and. took up his abode in the cave of the Thousand-Handed Kwannon at Izuru. After passing three years in prayer and meditation, he dreamt in mid-winter of a, great mountain N. of Iziiru, on the top of which lay a sword more than 3 ft. in. length. On awaking, he left the cave, and endeavoured to make his way in the direction indicated ; but the deep snow^ opposed difficulties almost insurmount- able. Vowing to sacrifice his life rather than abandon the enterprise, he per- severed, and at last reached a point fromt which he beheld the object of his search. Ascending to the top of the mountain, he gave himself up to austere discipline, living on fruits which were brought to him by a supernatural being. After thus passing three more years, he returned ta Izuru, and in 763 visited the temple of Yakushiji, not far from Ishibashi on the Osha Kaido, where meeting some Chinese priests, he was admitted by them as fv novice. He remained in the monastery for five years, and then returned to the mountain now called Kobu-ga- hara. From its summit he beheld, on. the range to the N., four miraculous clouds of different colours rising straight up into the sky, and he at once set off to reach them, carrying his holy books and images in a bundle on his back. On reaching the spot whence the clouds had seemed to ascend, he found his ad- vance barred by a broad river, which poured its torrent over huge rocks and looked utterly impassable. The saint fell upon his. knees and prayed, whereupon there appeared on the (^posite bank dr divine Ijeing of colossal size, dressed in blue and black robes, and having a string of skulls hung round his neck. This lieing- cried out that he would help him to pass the stream, as he had once helped the Chinese pilgrim Hsiian Chuans? across the River of Flowing Sand. With this pro- mise, he flung across the river two gi-een and blue snakes which he held in his right hand, and in an instant a long bridge was seen to span the waters, like a rain- bow floating among the hills; but when the saint crossed it and reached the northern bank, both the god and the snake-bridge suddenly vanished. Having thus attained the object of his desires, Sho.lo Sho- nin built himself a hut wherein to prac- tise his religious exercises. One night a. man appeared to him in a vision, and told him that the hill rising to the north was called ' the Mount of the Four Gods,' and

■

154

Boute 16. — NiJcJcd and XeighbonrJiood,

was inhabited by the Azure Dragon, the "Vermilion Bird, the WTaite Tigrer, and the Sombre Warrior, who respectively occupied its K., S., W. and N. peaks. He climbed the hill, and found that he had anived at the goal of his journey; for there were the four clouds which he had originally set out to seek, rising up- around him. He proceeded accordingly to build a fihriue, which he named the Monastery of the Four Dragons [Shi-hon-ryU-ji). In the year 767 he resolved to ascend the highest peak of the group, and after duly

Kreparing himself by religious exercises, e set out upon this new enteqirise. After ascending for a distance of over 40 ri (probably the ancient ri, of which 4=1 mile), he came to a great lake {Chuzenji) on the flank of the mountain (Nanfai- xan); but in spite of his prayers found it impossible to proceed any further, on account of the deep snow and the ter- rific peals of thunder which roared about the mountain top. He therefore retraced his steps to Nikko, where l*e spent fourteen years in fitting him- self, by the repetition of countless prayers and the performance of penances, for the task which he was unwilling to abandon. In 781 he renewed the attempt ■unauccessfully, but in the following year lie finally reached the summit, accom- panied by some of his disciples. It seemed to him a region such as gods and other supernatural beings would naturally choose for their residence, and he there- fore erected a Buddhist temple called Chtlzenji, in which he placed a life-size image of the Thousand-Handed Kwan- non, and close by it a Shinto temple in honour of the Gongen of Nikko. He also built a shrine to the * Great King of the Deep Sand" {Jinja Bai-o) at the point -where he had crossed the stream. Shodo Shonin died in 817 in the odour of sanctity. Mangicanji is the modem name of the monastery founded by him at IJikko.

In A.D. 161R, w^hen Jigea Daishi "was abbot, the second Shogun of the Tokugawa dynasty, acting on the dying injunctions of his father leyasu, sent two liigh officials to Nikko to choose a resting- place for his father's body, which had been temporarily interred at Kuno-zan, a Tjeautiful spot near Shizuoka on the T6- ]{aido. They selected a site on a hill called Hotoke-iwa, and the mausoleum was commenced in December of the same year. The mortuary chapel and some of the surrounding edifices were completed in the spring of the succeeding year, and on the 20th April the procession bearing the corpse started from Kuno-zan, reach- ing Nikko on the 8th May. The coffin w^as deposited in the tomb, with im- pressive Buddhist services in which tx>th the living Shogun and an envoy from the Mikado took part. In the year 1614 Jig^en Daishi died. The next abbot was a court noble, the next to him was

a son of the Emperor Go-Mizuno-o, since" whifeh time down to the revolution of 1 868 the abbot of Nikko was always a prince of the Imperial blood. Heiisually resided in Yedo, and visited Nikko three times annually. In 1808 the prince-abbot was- carried off to the north, and proclaimed Mikado by the remnants of the Tokugawa party. After the capture of the castle of Wakamatsti in Aizu in November of the same year, he surrendered to the Imperial forces, and, having been subseqently re- admitted to Imperial favour, was sent to Germany to study. His present title is Prince Kita Shirakawa.— The great annual festival is held on the 1st and 2nd June.

2. — Chief Objects op Interest.

On issuing from the upper end of the village, one of the firsb objects that attract attention is the Mi Hashiy a Ked Bridge spanning the Daiyagawa, about 40 ft. wide between the stone walls which here confine its. course. The bridge is supported on stone piers of great solidity, fixed into- the rocks between which the stream flows, and its colour forms a striking contrast to the deep green of the cryptomerias on the opposite bank. It was formerly closed to all per- sons except the Shoguns, save twice a year when it was opened to pil- grims. It stands on the spot where,, according to the legend above related,. Shodo Shonin crossed the river. The present structure, which is 84 ft. long and 18 ft. wide, was built in 1638, and is said not to have re- quired any repairs of importance since that time. At each end there are gates which are kept constantly closed. Forty yards or so lower down the stream, is the so-called * temporary bridge,' which is open to ordinary mortals. Crossing this and turning to the 1., the visitor ascends the Nagasaka through a grove of cryptomerias, and reaches

Mangivanji, a monastery occupy- ing the site of the former Hmnhdy or Abbot's residence, a magnificent building destroyed by fire in 1871. On the r. is a monastery called Jodo- in. The road to be followed passes along the S. wall of the Mangwan- ji enclosure, and up its W. side. In the N. part of this enclosure

Mansolewn of ley am*

155

stands the Sambutsu-dd, or Hall of the Three Buddhas, viz., the Thousand-Handed Kwannon, the Horse-Headed Kwannon, and Amida Nyorai ; with them is a wooden statue of Shodo Shonin. Close by is a pillar called the Sdrintdt erected in 1643, and consisting of a cylindrical copper column 42 ft. high, of a black colour, supported by horizontal bars crossing through its centre, which rest on shorter columns of the same material. The top is adorned with a series of six cups shaped like lotus-flowers, from the petals of which depend small bells. Just beneath the lowest of these cups are four small medal- lions, with the Tokugawa crest of three Asarum leaves.

Mansolenm of leyasii. As- cending some brpad steps be- tween two rows of cryptomerias, we come to the granite torii presented by the prince of Chikuzen from his own quarries in the year 1618. Its total height is 27 ft. 6 in., and the diameter of the columns is 3 ft. 6 in. The inscription on the columns merely records the fact of their presentation and the name of the donor. On the 1. is a five-storied pagoda of graceful form, painted in harmonious colours. It rises to a height of 104 ft., and the roofs measure 18 ft. on each side. This monument was the offering in 1650 of Sakai Wakasa-no-Kami, one of the chief supporters of the Toku- gawa family. Bound the lower storey are life-like painted carvings of the twelve signs of the zodiac. From the toriif a pavement leads to the bottom of the steps crowned by the Ni-o-maii, or Gate of the Two Kings. The two gigantic figures of these gods, which formerly occupied the niches on the outside of this gate, have been removed, and their places taken by gilt Ama-imi and Koma-inu. The carvings adorning this gateway are extremely varied. On the tops of the pillars at the four external angles are tapirs,representa- tions of which are in China supposed 1

to act as charms against pestilence. The heads on the central pillars of the two outer ends of the structure are lions ; in the niches r. and 1. of the lion at one end are unicorns, and in the corresponding niches at the other end are fabulous beasts called takicju, which are supposed to be endowed with the power of speech, and only to appear in the world when a virtuous sovereign oc- cupies the throne. The doorways are ornamented with elephants* heads, the first portico has lions and peonies, and the second tigers. The interiors of the niches on the outside of the gateway are de- corated with tapirs and peonies, those on the inside niches with bamboos. The carvings of tigers under the eaves on the interior side of the gateway are excellent.

Passing through the gateway, the visitor finds himself in a courtyard raised high above the approach, and enclosed by a timber walLpainted bright red. The three handsome buildings arranged in a zigzag are storehouses, in which various uten- sils employed in the religious ceremo- nies performed in honour of leyasu, pictures, furniture, and other articles used by him during his life-time, and many other treasures belonging to the temple, are deposited. The third is remarkable for two curious painted carvings of elephants in relief in the gable of the nearest end, which are ascribed to Hidari Jingoro, the drawings having been made by the celebrated artist Tan- yii. It will be noticed that the joints of the hind-legs are repre- sented bent in the wrong direction. On the 1. of the gate stands a conifer of the species called kdya- maki, surrounded by a stone railing. Some say that this is the iden- tical tree which leyasu was in the habit of carrying about with him in his palanquin, when it was still small enough to be contained in a flower-pot. Close to this tree is a stable for the sacred white pony kept for the use of the god.

156

Route 16, — NikJco and Xelghbourliood,

Over the doors are some cleverly executed groups of monkeys, seve- rally represented as closing their ears and mouth and shading their eyes with their hands. They are called san-goku no sarUj * the mon- keys of the three countries,' viz. India, China, and Japan.

A very interesting object is the On Choztiya^ containg a holy- water cistern made of a solid piece of granite, and protected by a roof supported on twelve square pillars of the same stone. It was erected in 1618. The pediment of the roof contains a pair of winged dra- gons, carved in wood and painted. The beautifully decorated build- ing beyond the holy-water basin is called the Kyozoj and is the depo- sitory of a complete collection of the Buddhist scriptures, contained in a fine revolving octagonal book- case with red lacquer panels and gilt pillars. In front stand figures of Fu Daishi and his sons. Paintings of angels on a gilt ground occupy the clerestory of the interior. In the ^centre of the court stands a fine bronze torii, with the Tokugawa crest in gold on the tops of the pillars and on the tie- beam.

A flight of steps gives access to another court, along the front of which runs a stone balustrade. Just inside are two stone lions in the act of leaping down, presented by lemitsu. On the r. stand a bell- tower, a bronze candelabrum pre- sented by the King of Loochoo, and a bell given by the King of Korea, called the ' Moth-eaten Bell,' because of there being a hole in the top just under the ring by which it is suspended. On the 1. stand a bronze lantern from Korea, a can- delabrum from Holland, a drum- tower, no unworthy companion to the bell-tower opposite, and behind these again a temple originally dedicated to the Buddhist god Yaku- shi Nyorai. (Be it remarked that Holland, Korea, and Loochoo were considered to be Japan's three

vassal States.) The groups of carved birds adorning the temple of Yakushi are excellently done. The lantern is a fine and solid piece of workmanship; but its style and construction indicate that it does not owe its origin to Korea. The two candelabra and the lantern, as well as the bronze candle-brackets fixed upon the interior wall of the court, r. and 1. of the steps, probably came from Europe through Dutch or Portu- guese traders. Two iron standard lanterns on the r. of the steps, pre- sented by Date Masamune, Prince of Sendai, and the same number ou the 1. given by the prince of Satsu- ma, merit attention. They are dated 1641. The total number of lanterns contributed by various Dai- myos is one hundred and eighteen.

We next ascend a flight of steps to the platform on which stands the exquisitel}'^ beautiful gate called Fo- inei-mcni. The columns supporting it are carved with a minute geometri- cal pattern, and painted white. The pillar next beyond has the pattern carved upside down, which was done purposely, lest the flawless perfection of the whole structure should bring misfortune on the House of Tokugawa by exciting the jealousy of Heaven. It is called the Ma-yoke no Hashira, or Evil- A vert- ing Pillar. The side niches are lined with a pattern of graceful arabesques founded upon the peony; those on the outside contain the images called Sadaijin and Udaijin, armed with bows and carrying quivers full of arrows at their backs ; the inner niches have Ama-inu and Koma- inu. The capitals of the columns are formed of unicorns' heads. The architrave of the second storey is adorned with white dragons* heads where the cross-beams inter- sect, and in the centre of each side and end is a magnificently involved dragon with golden claws. Above the architrave of the lower storey, projects a balcony which runs all round the building. The railing is

Mausoleum of leyatu.

157

formed of children at play and other subjects. Below again are groups of Chinese sages and im- mortals. The roof is supported by gilt dragons' heads with gaping crimson throats, and from the top a demon looks down. The Indian- ink drawings of dragons on the ceilings of the two porticos are by Kano Motonobu. R. and 1. extends a long cloister, the outer walls of which are decorated with carvings of trees, birds, and flowers, coloured &fter nature, fifteen compartments on the r. and eight on the 1.

Passing through the gate, we «nter a second court, enclosed on three sides by the above-mentioned cloister. In this the Buddhist priests used to repeat 'their prayers «,t the two great annual festivals. On the fourth side, is a high stone wall built against the face of the hill. Of the two buildings on the T., one contains a stage for the per- formance of the sacred kagura •dances, and in the other, called Gotna-ddy was an altar for burning the fragrant cedar while prayers were recited. On the 1. is a build- ing containing the cars carried in procession on the 1st June, when the deified spirits of leyasu, Hide- yoshi, and Yoritomo are supposed to occupy them. In the midst stands the enclosure surrounded by the tamagaJcij or fence, containing the haidefif or oratory and the hon- den, or chapel. The tainagaki forms a quadrangle each side of which is 50 yds. long, and is constructed of gilt trellis with borders of coloured geometrical decorations. Above and beneath these again are carvings of birds in groups, about 8 in. high and 6 ft. long, with back- grounds of grass, carved in relief and gilt. The gate, called kara- ntOTij through which this enclosure is entered, is composed of Chinese woods inlaid with great skill. The folding-doors of the oratory are lavishly decorated with arabesques •of peonies in gilt relief. Over the 4oor and windows of the front.

are nine compartments filled with, birds carved in relief, four on each side of the building ; and there are four more at the back on each side of the corridor leading to the chapel. The interior is a large matted room, 42 ft. long by 27 ft. deep, with an ante- chamber at each end. That on the r., which w^as intended for the Sho- gun, contains pictures of unicorns on a gold ground, and four carved oak panels of phoenixes which at first sight seem to be in low relief ; but closer examination shows that the figures are formed of various woods glued on to the surface of the panel. The rear compartment of the ceiling is of carved wood, with the Tokugawa crest in the centre sur- rounded by phoenixes and crysan- themums. The opposite ante-cham- ber has the same number of panels, the subjects of which are eagles very spiritedly executed, and a carved and painted ceiling with an angel surrounded by chrysanthemums. The gold paper gohei at the back of the oratory, and a circular mirror are the only ornaments left, the Buddhist paraphernalia of bells, gongs, prayer-books, and so forth, having been removed when. the Shinto form of worship was introduced. Two wide steps at the back lead down into the Stone Chamber, so called because paved with stone under the matted wooden floor. The ceiling consists of square panels, with gold dragons on. a blue ground. Beyond are the gilt doors of the chapel, which is divided into four apartments not accessible to visitors. The first, called the HeideUy where the offerings are pre- sented, is a beautifully decorated chamber having a coffered ceiling with phoenixes diversely designed, and carved beams and pillars of plain wood. In it stand gilt and silken gohei presented by H.I.M. the Emperor.

To reach the Tortiby we issue again from the Kara-mon, and pass between the Gcnna-db and Kagura-do to a door in the E»

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Boute 16, — Nikko and NeighbourJiood.

side of the gallery. Over this door is a carving called the nemuri no nekoy or * sleeping cat,' one of Hidari Jingoro's most famous works. From this a moss-grown stone gallery and several steep flights, of about two hundred steps altogether, lead to the tomb on the hill behind. After passing through the torii at the top of the last flight, we reach another oratory used only when that below is undergoing repairs. The tomb, shaped like a small pagoda, is a single bronze casting of a light colour, produced, it is said, by the admixture of gold. In front stands a low stone table, bearing an im- mense bronze stork with a brass candle in its mouth, an incense- l)urner of bronze, and a vase with artificial lotus-flowers and leaves in brass. The whole is surrounded by a stone Wall surmounted by a balus- trade, the entrance being through a bronze gate not open to the public, the roof of which, as well as the gate itself, is a solid casting. Before it sit bronze Koma-inu and Ama-inu.

On leaving the Mausoleum of leyasu, the guide will turn to the r. at the bottom of the steps, and pass along the avenue under the wall to the open space through the toriiy Tvhere stands r. the Shinto temple of FtUa-ara no Jinja, dedicated to the god Onamuji.

When Shodo Shoninin A.D. 782 reached the top of Nantai-zan, the tutelary- deities of the region appeared to him, and. promised to watch over the welfare of human beings and the progress of Buddhism, These were the god Onamuji, the goddess Tagori-hime his wife, and their son Ajisuki-taka-hikone. Japan is believed to have been saved on many- occasions from the perils of civil war and invasion by the intervention of these divine beings, who are styled the Three Original Gongen of Nikko; and local tradi- tion says that it was owing to the efficacy of the prayers here offered, that the Mongol invaders in the second half of the 13th century were repulsed with such terrible loss.

In one comer of the chapel en- closure stands a bronze lantern called the Bakemono Tdrd, presented in 1292, which is said to have for-

merly had the power of taking the> form of a demon, and annoying tha inhabitants of the locality on dark nights, until a courageous man attacked it, and with his sword gav^ it a wound which is still visible oa the cap.

Turning to the 1. and descending, we perceive two red lacquered buildings, standing, together and connected by a covered gallery. The former is dedicated to Kishl Bojin and Fugen Bosatsu, the latter to Amida. Here are pre- served the bones of Yoritomo, which were discovered near the site of the Ni-o-mon gate of leyasu's mauso- leum about the year 1617. Bound the sides of the interior are ranged a number of Buddhist images.

Mansolenm of leiiiitsn. Turp^ ing to the r. before reaching the red-lacquered buildings just men- tioned, we approach the gate of the mausoleum of lemitsu. This is a Ni-o-mon, the side niches of which are occupied by a gigantic pair of wooden figures. In the niches on the inner side of the gateway, stand the Ni-6 which once adorned the gate of leyasu' s mausoleum. Under a beautiful shed r. on enter- ing the court, stands a massive stone water-basin. A flight of steps leads to the gate called Niten-mo7i, The niches on the side contain , a red statue of Bishamon on the 1., and on the r. a green one of Ida-Ten (Sanskrit, VSda Baja)^ a mytholo- gical protector of Buddhism. The niches on the inside are occupied by the Gods of Wind and Thunder. Three more flights conduct us to the YasJia-mmif or Demon Gate, whose , niches contain the Shi Tennd. ' Turning round just inside the gate, we have before us an exquisite view of foliage. Directly opposite is the Hotoke-iwaj completely clad up to the summit with trees of various tints. Of the mausoleum which stands on it, only a narrow piece can be seen between the avenue of cryptomerias lining the last flight of steps ascended. This vignette is

Mausoleum of lemitsii.

15^

the gem of Nikko. The oratory and chapel are less magnificent than those of leyasu. The former is crowded with the insignia of Bud- dhism. Two largo horn lanterns pointed out as Korean are evidently Dutch. The tomb is reached by flights of steps up the side bf the hill on the r. of the chapel. It is of bronze, and in the same style as that of leyasu, but of a darker hue. The gates in front are of bronze, and are covered with large Sanskrit characters in shining brass.

After descending a flight of steps, and passing under the gallery con- necting the the temples of Kishi Bo- jin and Amida, we come to the resting-place of Jigen Daishi, other- wise called Tenkai Daisojo, arch- bishop of Isikko at the time of le- yasu's interment. The chapel con- tains some interesting paintings, and is finely decorated on the outside. Two white phoenixes above the entrance are particularly worthy of notice. The tomb behind is constructed of stone, and consists of a cube on which rests a globe surmounted by a pyramidal top, with the comers turned up, standing altogether about 12 ft. high. Six stone effigies of Buddhist gods life-size stai\d in rows, three on either side. Before quitting this spot, it is worth while ascending a fews steps on the 1., which lead to the tombs of the prince-abbots. They are thirteen in number, arranged round three sides of a square, and their mean appearance contrasts curiously with the splendour of the tombs of leyasu and lemitsu. In no gor- geous chapel are litanies chanted to their memory; all we see is a rough shed supported on four wooden posts.

" No visitor should fail to see a cer- tain chamber at Nikko if he desires to carry away a clear idea of the magnificent care lavished by the men of old on the mausolea of their ancestors. It is a chamber in the iron store-room attached to the

Tama-ya of the third Shogun, le- mitsu, and on its walls are hung about twenty of the finest examj)les of decorative painting that could be achieved by the Japanese artists of the seventeenth century, working without the smallest concern for time and expense. The subjects depicted are all Buddhistic. Gold is profusely used, and used with a firmness, directness and fineness of stroke that are absolutely mar- vellous. The colours are wonder- fully rich and mellow ; indeed, the best of the pictures seem to radiate a perfect glow of brilliancy, without,^ however, the slightest approach to* garishness or obtrusiveness. The original silk on which the picture is painted is not suffered to appear at all, being completely covered with microscopic illumination, or beauti- fully designed brocades in glorious colours. The borders, which in or- dinary pictures cofisist of rich fabrics, are here replaced by hand-painting inconceivably accurate and minute. The artist, in fact, took a single piece of seamless silk, specially - woven for the purpose, perhaps 8 feet long and 4 wide, and covered the entire surface with illuminated painting,, fi'om the elaborate border of scrolls and diapers to the central deity clothed in raiment of gold cloth,, every line and mesh of which is faithfully reproduced. To attempt to describe such works verbally is entirely futile. In the same store- room are many other objects of beauty and interest ; for example, a number of illuminated scrolls en- closed in a lacquer case that is itself a marvel ; some boxes of the most exquisite filigree metal-work ; the norimono in which the mortuary tablet of lemitsu was carried to- the shrine; and so forth. The conclusion at which every one visiting this store-room must inevi- tably arrive is that few of the much- vaunted illuminated missals of mediaeval Europe will endure com- parison for a moment with the similar work of contemporaneous

160

Route 16. — Xikho and Neighbourhood,

Japanese artists. Special steps must be taken to gain access to the store-room where these» treasures

Are preserved The best

way to procure admission to all the •objects of interest is to become a member of the Hoko-kwai, or Nikko Preservation Society, by payment •of a subscription of $5." — Japan Mail.

-3. — Objects op Minor Interest.

Besides the mausolea of the Sh5guns, there are various objects At Nikko having a lesser degree of interest. All are within a short distance of the great temples. One of these is the Hmigu, a tem- ple dedicated to the Shinto god Aji- suki-taka-hikone,. whose name im- plies that he was mighty with the spade. This temple was built by Sho- do Shonin in A.D. 808, close to the Buddhist monastery which he had founded. It is reached by ascending the stone steps that face the end •of the bridge, and then turning to the right. Near the Hongu stands the San^io-iniya, a small red chapel «urrounded by a stone balustrade. It is believed that women may obtain safe delivery by here offering up pieces of wood, such as are used in the Japanese game of chess, and correspond to our rook. Close hj is the Kaisan-ddy a red lac- quered building 36 ft. square, dedi- cated to Shodo Shonin, the 'pioneer of the mountain,* as the name implies. Peeping through the grat- ing which forms the window on the E. side, we see an image of Jizo occupying a lofty position, with the eflSgy of the saint below, and those of ton disciples ranged r. and 1. Behind are the tombs of the saint 4ind three of his disciples. At the base of the rugged and precipitous rock at the back of the Kaisan-dO are some rough Buddhist images, from which the hill takes its name of Hoto- ke-iwa. Further on we pass a small shrine dedicated to Tenjin. A large stone close to the path on the r., just beyond this, is called the Te-

kakc-ishiy or Hand-touched Stone, said to have been sanctified by the imposition of Kobo Daishi's hands. Fragments of it are valued as a protection against noxious in- fluences. Opposite stand a row of stone images of Emma-0, the Begent of Hell. Further on is a stone bearing a half-effaced inscription, erected over the spot where lies the horse which carried leyasu at the decisive battle of Seki-ga-hara, in the year IGOO. After the death of the master whom he had borne to victory, the horse was set free in the mountains of Nikko, and died in 1630. The next object to bo noticed is an immense cryptomeria, 7 ft. in diameter a little above the base, called the li-viori no sngi, from the supposed resemblance to a heap of boiled rice which its pendent branches present. The tree is said to have been planted by a deputa- tion representing 800 Buddhist nuns of the province of Wakasa. Close to the path on the 1., as we turn a corner, is the Somen tw takiy or Vermicelli Cascade, so called from a fancied likeness to a bowl of that food. Another and prettier name given to it is Shira-ito, * White Thread.*

4. — Walks in the Neighboubhood.

1. Kwannon-yniim is the name of the bluff behind the upper end of the village. A fine view of the river and surrounding country ia obtained from the tea-sheds over- looking the street.

2. Kainnian-ga-fnc1ii. About 20 min. walk from the bridge, along the course of the Daiyagawa, is a deep pool called Kamman-ga-fuchi. A liut has been erected here close to the boiling eddies, opposite to a precipitous rock on which is en- graved the Sanskrit word Hdnwmm, It seems impossible that any one should have been able to get across to perform the work, and so it ig ascribed to Kobo Daishi, who ac- complished the feat by • throwing

Kamnian-ga-fucJii, * Waterfalls,

161

his pen at the rock. But there is authority for attributiug it to a disciple of Jigen Daishi, only two centuries ago. On the bank of the river stand a large number of images of Amida ranged in a long row. It is believed that they always count up differently however often the attempt be made, — a belief bearing a curious resemblance to the super- stition which prevailed regarding the Druidical stones in various parts of England. It was supposed that no two persons could number the stones alike, and that nobody could ever find a second counting confirm the first. The largest of these images was some years ago washed down the river by a flood as far as Imaichi, arriving there in perfect safety. It now stands at the E. end of that town, wit<h its face towards Nikko.

3. Hontd Somen-ga-taki, or the Real Vermicelli Cascade, so called to distinguish it from the one men- tioned on p. 160, is about ^ hr. walk up the vaUey nearest to Kamman- ga-fuchi. It consists of a" series of three cascades, not large, but very pretty after rain. As we approach the first fall on going up the valley, a small trickle of water coming over the face of the hill is perceived on the 1. This streamlet often becomes a clear fall of about 40 ft.

4. Dainichi-do, just beyond Kam- man-ga-fuchi .on the opposite side of the river, merits a visit for the sake of its prettily arranged garden. The water rising from a spring in one of the artificial ponds is deliciously cool, and is considered the purest in the neighbourhood of Kikko.

6. Toyania. The nearest emi- nence from which an extensive view of the plain can be obtained is Toyama, a hill rising up somewhat in the form of a huge animal cou- chant on the 1. bank of the Inari- kawa, which flows down by the nde of the temples. From the bridge to the top isf hr. climb. The

last bit of the ascent is steep, but- the view is a sufficient reward. The large mountain on the extreme^ 1. is Keicho-zan, also called Taka- hara-yama. Right opposite is the long ridge of Haguro-yama. Tsuku- ba's double peak is unmistakable^ Turning round we see the whole of the magnificent range formed by Nantai-zan, 0-Manago, Ko-Manago^ Nyoho-zan, and Akanagi.

6. Kirifuri-iio-taki or the Mist- Falling Cascade. By taking a wide- sweep round the base of Toyama and over undulating country to the S., this cascade may be reached in 1 J hr. A tea-house on the hill above commands a picturesque view of the fall, and from the top of a knoll just beyond the tea-house, a grand view is obtained of the country towards the E., S., and W. A steep and very rough path leads - down to the foot, where the fall is seen to better advantage. The rare fern Aspidium triptcron grows by the way-side; it is also found at the foot of the E. side of the Hotoke-iwa.

7. Makiira-no-taI:i, or the Pillow Cascade. On leaving Kirifuri we- re trace the path for a few steps, andi then follow another to the r. for- about 2 in. This path crosses the stream above Kirifuri three times, and then crossing two hills, leads to- another stream. Here we leave- the path and plunge into a thicket, keeping the stream on the r., a rough climb of 3 or 4 did bringing us to the ^lakura-no-taki, a fall of about 60 ft. in height. The best view is obtained from a point a few yards up the hill to the 1. The fall shows very prettily through the trees as it is approached, and altogether well repays the toil of reaching it. As the path is easily mistaken, it is advisable to procure a guide, who will also be able to lead one a different way back to Nikko, instead of returning via Kirifuri.

8. Jakko. To the site of the- temple of Jakko and to Nana-taki»

162

Boute 16, — XikJco and Neighhourhood.

(cascade), 'which lies in a recess bahiad lemitsu's mausoleum at the base of Nyoho-zan, is a pleasant walk of 1 lir. from Nikko. The way lies through the village of Iri- machi beyond the temples, and turns o3 at right angles just before descending the hill. The temple that stood here was burnt in 1876, and the splendid avenue of pines and cryptomerias which formed the approach has been ruthlessly cut down. Behind the site of the temples is a cascade, a series of falls of about 100 ft. in height. It goes by various names, «one being Nana-taki, and must not be confounded with the other falls of the same name in the chasm over- looked by the summit of Nyoho-zan.

9. Jakko Icki-no-toki. Shortly before reaching the base of the hill -on which the temple of Jakko stands, we cross a bridge over a small stream, where a path leads off r. ■around the base of the hill. Less than i m. up a beautiful ravine, lies the waterfall of Ichi-no-taki. About half way up, the stream is again crossed, and a few yards fur- ther we gain the first view of the fall. The path thence to the bottom is steep. As the way is very muddy after rain, and only a log bridge spans the stream, this ex- <cursion may sometimes be found awkward for ladies.

10. The Deer Park (GoRydcht). About half-way to Jakko from Iri- machi, a narrow path turns of! r., leading up a small valley in which the Deer Park is situated. Five min. walk takes one to the keeper's house, where a permit to enter the park, obtainable from the local au- thorities, must be presented. With- in the precincts of the park are two pretty cascades.

11. Uraiiii-gra-taki, or the Back View Cascade, derives its name from the possibility of passing behind and under the fall. It lies on the r., some distance from the •old Chuzenji road, and beyond the

path to Jq,kk6. Turning to the r. by a fairly broad path shortly after crossing an affluent of the Daiya- gawa, the path rises on to a moor, and after 1^ hr. walk reaches several tea-houses by the side of & stream, whence the remainder of the way is an easy climb of 6 chd. The view of the cascade, which is about 50 ft. high, is at first rather disappointing, as the spectator sees it from a level not far below the point where it shoots out from the rocks ; but those venturesome enough to pass behind the fall and up the ravine on the other side, will be well repaid for their trouble and the slight inconvenience of a wetting from the spray. On reaching the other side of the fall, there is a picturesque view of the rocky basin overhung with trees, of the cascade, and of the deep pool into which it tumbles. On the r. and 1. of the principal fall are two smaller ones, while above is a shrine dedicated to Fudo. A walk of 5 or 10 min. beyond Fudo leads to another basin with a small cascade falling into it. — Urami may also be conveniently visited on the way back from Chiizenji, by taking the road which branches ofi 1. a little below Uma-gaeshi, and by turning to the 1. again at Kiyotaka, where a very muddy path leads through the woods for a distance of about 1 ri to the tea-houses above-mentioned.

12. Jikan-no-taki (cascade). Crossing the stream by tne side of the tea-houses below Urami, a path will be found r. a few steps beyond. It leads up the hill, mostly through a wood for a little over 1 ri, the first part of which is rather steep. At Jikan there is a pretty effect of water falling in a dozen streams over a ledge of rock. The view from the top of the fall down the valley is very fine, and the place a charming one for picnics. About 1 m. below Jikan, and visible from a small clearing at the edge of the hill on the way up, is another fall called Jikan Ni,

Ascent of Nyoho-zan and Nantai-zan,

163

13. Ascent of Nyoho-zan via Nana-taki, or the Seven Cascades.

This is a whole day's excursion, and an early start should conse- quently be made. The ascent of Nyoh6-zan is the best of all the mountain climbs near Nikko. With a good guide, 4^ hrs. will sufl&ce for the actual ascent, and 2^ for the descent. Nyoho-zan can be ascended as late as the middle of November. The way for pedestrians lies past the temple of Futa-ara-no-jinja and a minor shrine called the Gyoja-do. Here take a narrow track to the 1. through the wood, and after f hr. easy walking with a short climb at the end, a large stone known as the Sesshd- seki is reached, which bears an inscription to notify that killing game is prohibited on these hills. (The best way for horses and kagos leads a short distance over the Jakko road to a zigzag path clearly visible on the hill to the r., and joins the path already mentioned at the Sesshd-seki.) Right ahead rises a peak called Akapporiy con- spicuous by its precipitous face of red volcanic, strata. The path continues up the grassy spur in front. In 1 hr. from the Sesshd- seki we arrive at a hut called HappUy and 5 min. later we come to the edge of a precipice overlooking a gigantic chasm, apparently the remains of an ancient crater that has been broken away by water on the S.E. side, where the Inari-kawa has its source. Prom Akanagi-san an almost unbroken crater wall extends westward to Akappori. This secondary crater appears not to have been very deep, as its pre- sent floor, out of which descends one of the seven cascades that supply the Inari-kawa, is high above the greater chasm immediately in front of us, A projecting spur divides the upper from the lower crater, and above it on the 1. rises a lesser peak named Sliaktijo-ga- take. The falls are viewed from the edge of the precipice. They

consist of seven cascades, which seem to issue from the side of the mountain, and are not remarkable for either size or beauty ; but the walk to this point is one of the most delightful in the neighbour- hood and affords entrancing views. The excursion as far as Nana-taki and back occupies from 5 to 6 hrs. Nyoho-zan, which may be seen from the moor, is invisible from this point. The . path hence winds to the 1. not far from the edge of the chasm, at first very steeply, and then through the wood to the Karar- sawa hut in about 1^ hr. We are now at the foot of Nyoho-zan, the ascent of which will occupy not more than J hr. The summit is about 8,130 ft. high. To the N. it commands an extensive view over a sea of lower mountains, among which lie the secluded valleys of Kuriyama-go ; to the N.E., Nasn- no-yama is rendered conspicuous by the smoke rising from its crater, and further N. is seen Bandai- san ; to the E. is Takahara-yama, which also has the appearance of a volcano. On the immediate W. of the spectator is Akakura, merely a continuation of Nyoho-zan, then Ko-Manago, 0-Manago, and Nantai- zan. Between Akakura and Ko> ^lanago we look across to Taro-zan. Akanuma-ga-hara is partly visible, and beyond it the bare volcanic summit of Shirane. Further to the S.W. are seen Asama-yama, Yatsu- ga-take, and numerous other peaks probably belonging to the Hida- Shinshu range. The upper half of Fuji rises S. over the long horizon- tal line of the Ghichibu mountains. Away in the plain to the E. and S. are perceived the broad, and deep Kinugawa, stretches of the Tonegawa, the vill. of Nikko with the parallel rows of dark trees marking the main roads, and far away on the horizon, Tsukuba-san.

14. Ascent of Nnntai-zan viH Urami. Just beyond the tea- houses below Urami, the path descends to the 1., crosses the

164

Eoute 16. — Nikko and Neighbourhood.

etream and turns at once to the r., climbing up through a wood, on emerging from which Nantai-zan, O-Manago, Nyoho-zan, and Akanagi jure seen in front. After ascend- ing a grassy valley for about 20 min., a sign-post is reached where a path to the r. diverges to Nyoho-zan and .Akanagi, while the 1. branch ascends a hill and gradually winds to the T. Entering a wood, it follows up a deep thickly wooded gully, and at last reaches a torii in the middle of the wood occupying the depression between Nantai-zan and O-Manago. Here the path forks, the r. branch passing the spot from which O-Manago is ascended, and continuing on towards Yumoto, vhile the 1. climbs up to the Shizu ■wo Iwaya (5,600 ft.), where the back ascent of Nantai-zan commences. Horses may be taken from Nikko to this place. The time on foot from I^ikko is 3 hrs. From here to Ghii- zenji round the base of Nantai- zan is also a good 8 hrs. walk. The route for some distance follows the path to Yumoto, and about 1 ri after crossing the bed of a stream, diverges to the 1., shortly afterwards issuing on the open plain of Akanuma-ga-hara, from •which moment the path cannot be jnissed.

5. — Kegon-no-taki, Chuzenji, and

Yumoto.

One of the principal points of interest near Nikko is the beautiful lake of Chuzenji. The road is prac- ticable for jinrikishas, not only to the vill. of Chuzenji, 3 ri 12 chd from Nikko, but for 2 ri 27 chd further on to the hot-springs of Yumoto. But owing to the steep- ness of the hill which has to be passed on the way, ladies and others unable to walk are recommended to take chairs or horses. The walk from Nikko to Chuzenji and back in one day is a favourite excursion. Indeed sturdy pedestrians are able, 2>j making an early start, to do the

whole distance to Yumoto and back within the limits of a day ; but this is neither advisable nor necessary.

Leaving Nikko, we follow the Ashio road along the course of the Daiyagawa as far as Fiitamiya (1^ ri), where the road to Chuzenji branches off r. through a wood, still continuing by the river-side. This river, which issues from Lake Chuzenji, is for most of the year a small and quiet stream; but at times- it becomes a dangerous torrent carry- ing away embankments and roads. The ascent is gradual and easy up to the hamlet of XJma-gaeshi, where there is a good tea-house. Just before reaching this hamlet, the old path from Nikko, still much traversed by pedestrians, joins the new road. Beyond Uma-gaeshi three men should be taken for each jinrikisha. The road thence for some distance is cut out of the side of the overhanging cliffs close by the brawling stream, and owing te landslips is difficult to maintain in order. Formerly the path climbed along the face of the pre- cipitous cliff to the r., and was impassable even for horses ; a later road can be traced as it ascends, the ravine and crosses over the rushing waters of the Daiyagawa on faggot bridges. The scenery between Uma-gaeshi and the small cluster of houses at the foot of the real ascent, 3 hr. walk, is wild and picturesque. Leaving the rugged gorge, a winding path leads up to a narrow ridge, where a resting-hut commands a pretty view of two cascades at the head of the ravine to the r. From this point the ascent to the top, which occupies about f hr., is arduous. At the charmingly situated tea-house called Naka no Chaya half-way up, the coolies usually make a short halt. On the summit, the road passes through a wood of pines and oaks, many of which are covered with the long trailing moss called Sartigase {Lycopodium sieboldi), A path to the 1. leads to a plat*

Kegon-nO'taJd. Chuzenji^

165

form which commands a fine view of the cascade of

Kegoii-no-taki. The height of the fall is about 350 ft. In the earlier part of the year it i^ occasionally almost dry ; but after the heavy summer rains it shoots out over the edge of the over- hanging precipice in considerable volume. The best view is obtained by descending the side of the preci- pice to the look-out which has been erected just opposite the fall. The road onwards soon reaches the shore of the lake, and enters the singu- larly deserted vill. of

Chfizcilji, which is only oc- cupied by pilgrims in July and August. The -houses stand in long rows, containing for the most part two rooms, one above and one below. Comfortable accom- modation can be had at the inns, — *Kome-ya and *Izumi-ya, — which have pleasant rooms looking out on the lake. ' European food can generally be obtained during the summer months. The temple here is said to have been founded by Shodo Shonin, in A.D. 816, after his ascent of Nantai-zan. The space between the bronze t(yrii and the temple itself is considered holy ground, and persons in jinriki- shas or A'^{/oshad better go along the lower road if they object to being required to alight in order to pass through. Close to the temple is the gate of Nantai-zan, which is closed except during the pilgrim season. The ascent, occupying about 2 hrs., is extremely steep ; but the

view from the summit (8,150 ft.) well repays the exertion ^ On the S. E. lies the plain stretching to- wards Tokyo ; on the W. rises the lofty cone of Shirane-san ; further S. is Koshin zan ; below lies the marshy basin of Scnjo-ga-hara with the stream meandering through it, the blue lake of Chuzenji, a glimpse of Lake Yumoto, and N. o1 Shirane, the peaks of Taro-zan, 0-rManago, Ko-Manago, and Nyoho-zan. The ascent can also be made from Yumoto in about 3^ hrs. (see p. 167). Liike Chuzenji lies at the foot of Nantai-zan, being surrounded on the other sides by comparatively low hills covered with trees to their very summit. Its greatest length from E. to W. is estimated at 3 ri, its breadth at 1 ri. The lake abounds with excellent salmon- trout and other fish.f Its height above the sea is 4,375 ft. The road to Yumoto lies for about 1 ri along the N. shore, at the edge of the forest covering the base of Nantai-zan, to a promontory called Senju-ga-saki. Boats may be taken to this point from the vill. of Chijzenji. Far away on the op- posite side of the lake is a tiny islet called Kdztike-shitiia,

[At the far end of the lake stands a small shrine close to a brook remarkable for the icy coldness of its water. This is a pleasant spot for a picnic, and is within ^ hr. walk of the Nishi no umif a tarn nestling beneath the wooded hills which, at this end, recede from the larger lake.]

tNUMBEB AND BESCRIFTIOIT OF 7IKH Pri' IKTO LaKE ChuZENJI BY THE JaPAKESS

Government from 1873 to 1890.

Caught during the ) years lbi:U(>-89. i

Weighing .-.

Salmon.

283,000

149

lbs. 277

Salmon trout.

556,000

8,669

lbs. 7,334

Iitana

(a species

of white

trout).

Carp.

Akakara^

Shrimps.

137,500

31,488

lbs. 49,634

22,000

168

lbs. 454

800

40,702

lbs. 2,645

16.000

•

166

Route 16, — Xikkoand XeighbourJiood,

Jnst beyond the promontory the road turns away from the lake, and soon crosses the Jigoku no kaivay a slender stream which hurries over smooth rocks. Rest and shelter may be had at the hut close by. A little further on, a path branches off r. through the grass to the cave called Jigoku no kama (Heirs Cauldron) at the base of Nantai-zan. The road ascends slightly after leaving the hut, and a few steps away to the 1. bring us to the foot of the Byuzu ga takiy or Dragon's Head Cascade, the most curious- of all the cascades in this neighbourhood. It consists of a series of small falls rushing over steep black rocks and forming two streams. In order to obtain a full view, the first stream must be crossed. On the 1., the second stream plunges down through deep, dark hollows in the rock, and loses , itself in hidden windings. The maples at this spot, during the month of October, display the love- liest tints that can be imagined. Beyond this, the road is through a desolate forest which was ravaged by fire some years ago, until it emerges on the Akanuma-ga-hara^ or Moor of the Red Swamp, pro- bably so named from the colour of the dying grass in autumn. It is also called Senjo-ga-hara, or Moor of the Battle-field, on account of an engagement that took place here in A.D. 1389 between the partisans of the Ashikaga Shoguns and those of the Southern dynasty of Mikados (see p. 87). This wide solitude is bounded on all sides by forests, above which rise the peaks of Nantai-zan, 0-Manago, Ko-Manago, and Taro- 2an. Far away on the 1. is a wooded elevation, in the centre of which the cascade of Yu-no-taki appears like a silver thread. Above this rises the volcano of Shirane-san, the only bare peak in the vicinity. The road crosses the plain to a point not far from the Yu-no-taki where it begins to rise through a wood of oaks. The bottom of the ascent

is 21 cho from Yumoto. Half-way- through the wood, a path diverges 1. to the foot of the cascade, whicH rushes over a smooth black rock between the trees at an angle of 60^, forming a stream that feeds the Ryuzu-ga-taki, and finally falls into Lake Chiizenji. Its perpendi- cular height must be about 200 ft. A narrow steep path by its side leads up to the top, some 60 yds. from the shore of Lake Yumoto^ 80 called from the hot springs at its further end. This liUce, though smaller than Ltake Chnzenji, is more beautiful. The road winds through the wood along the E. side of the lake to the small vill. of

Tnnioto, 5,000 ft. above the sea. Heps the water is partially dis« coloured by the sulphur springs. The inn kept by Namma Shin- jiiro close to the entrance of the vill. on the r. is recommended, as the temperature of the baths is not too high for Europeans. An> other good inn is the Yamada-ya ia the centre of the village. There are altogether ten springs, some under cover, others exposed to the open air, all open to the public and frequent* ed by both sexes promiscuously. Shirane-san may be ascended from Yumoto, but the ascent from Higashi-Ogawa (see p. 170) is to be preferred.

6. — Ascent of 0-Manago and Nak- tai-zan from yumoto.

The ascent of O-Managro is made by returning to the Akanuma-ga- hara, and turning to the 1. close by a well-known cold spring. We skirt the moor, passing through a thick wood, and after 2i hrs. from Yumo- to, arrive at a shrine containing a stone image of Shozuka-no-Baba, with a strange medley of ex-votos hanging outside. Shortly after- wards we turn to the 1. over a rustio bridge, and in ^ hr. reach the torii of O-Manago. The distance to the summit is 1 ri 8 choy the real ascent beginning at a bronze image of

Boute 17. — From Xikko to Omama vid Ashio,

167

PudO on a large Rtone pedestal. Three-quarters of tlie way up, we come to another bronze image erected in honour of the mountain god of Ontake in ShinshiL ; and the last bit of the ascent is over preci- pitous rocks, where chains are fixed to assist the climber. On the top stands a wooden shrine, with a bronze image behind it, said to be Kunitoko-tachi, the Earth-god. The view is less extensive than that from Nantai-zan.

Nantiii-zan can be ascended from the back with much greater ease than from Chuzenji, by starting from a hut called th^ Ozaioano shiiku. Chains at one point enable a small "difficulty to be surmounted. In this way the ascent can easily be made in about 3^ hrs. from Yumoto.

Japanese pilgrims make the round of the various mountains near Nikko by ascending firs^ Nyoho- zan, then Ko-Manago, descending to a place called Sabusawa, and ascending 0- Manage from the back. They sleep at a hut called the Shizu-no-Iwaya, climb Taro-zan in the forenoon, Nantaizan in the afternoon, and descend to Chuzenji.

ROUTE 17.

From Nikko to Tokyo or Ikao vid Ashio and the Valley op the Watabase-gawa. [Koshin-zan.] Chuzenji to Ashio.

Itinerary,

NIKKO to :— Ri. Chb. M.

Top of pass 3 8 8

ASHIO 3 2 7i

Sori 2 21 6|

Godo 2 12 6}

Hanawa 1 — 2^'

OMAMA 3 4 7^

Total 15 11 37i

From Omama toTokjo by train in 4^ hrs. Or from Omama by train in f hr. to IMaebashi, whence see Route 14. _

The road from Nikko to Omama over the Hoso-o Pass, whose sum- mit fs 4,100 ft. above sea level, is rough but generally practicable for jinrikishas the whole way. The Watarase-gawa is reached before entering

Asliio (InnSf *Tsuru-ya, Izmni- ya). This place, famed for its copper mines which are the most productive in Japan, lies in ^ deep valley at an altitude of about 2,300 ft. The mines, of which there are two in the neigh- bourhood, bear respectively the names of Ashio and Kotaki, the latter being about 6 m. from the town. The ore is found .in a matrix of clay, calcite, and quartz, and is almost entirely the pyrite or copper sulphide, although a small quantity of oxide also occurs. The lodes vary from 6 to 20 ft. in width. The most approved modern processes of treating the ore are in use. The electricity for the motors in the Ashio mine is generated by water-power at a station about 1^ m. distant. The average yield is 19 % of metal, and the total annual product of finished metal from the two mines reaches the remarkable figure of 3,600 tons. A rope^way about 3 miles in length has been constructed over the Ashio pass for convenience of transport.

Persons desirous of inspecting the mines should obtain an introduction from the Office in Tokyo.

[An extra day at Ashio may well be devoted to visiting the wonderful rocks of Kosliiii-zaii.

It is a distance of 8 chb from Ashio to the cluster of huts at the base of the thickly wooded mountain, whence a good walker will in 3 hrs. reach a point callel the Bessho, 4,500 ft., where the rock scenery begins. In order to visit the rocks, it is necessary to en*

168

JRoute 17. — From Nihko to Oniama via Asiliio,

gage the services of the guide who lives at the hut. The whole round will take about 2 J hrs., and is perfectly safe lor all except those who are troubled with dizziness.

Leaving the hut by the path on the S. side, we commence the round of the rocks, scram- bling up and down the steepest places imaginable, traversing deep ravines on rough foot- bridges, and crawling round the face of precipices by the aid of iron chains and foot-steps cut in the solid rock. A point called .Mi-harashi commands a magnificent prospect of the dense forest-covered mountains below, and Tsukuba-san in the plain beyond. Behind, the eye rests upon the gigantic rock- work, amidst which conifers have perched themselves in inaccessible nooks and crannies. To the various features of the landscape, more or less fanciful •names have been given. The most striking are the San-ju- san-gerij a mass of precipices dedicated to Kwannon ; the Spring dedicated to Yakushi, the waters of which are believed to be efficacious in cases of eye disease ; the Kinoko-sekiy or Mushroom Bock, beyond which comes the Yagura-seki, supposed to resemble the towers on the walls of a fortress; next the Uj-ami-ga-taki, or Back View Cascade, which falls from a ledge above in silvery threads. The huge precipice close by is called the Go-shiki no seki or Rock of the Five Colours. The guide points out a rock, the Men-sekiy in which a remote likeness to a human face may be traced. Above this is the Go-ju no Toj or Five-storied Pagoda, and near it, a small natural arch called the Ichi no rnon. Creeping through this, the path reaches the Bonji-seki, or Sanskrit

Character Rocks, next passing the Raikd-daniy a deep gully supposed to have some occult relation to the occurrence of thunder-storms; the Toro-iiva, or Stone-lantern Rock ; the Fujimi-scki, whence the upper half of Fuji is seen; the Shishi' seki, or Lion Rock ; the Ogi-iwa- ya, or Fan Cavern ; and the Zo-seki, or Elephant Rock. Next we come to. where a huge- natural bridge, called the Atncu no Jmshij or Bridge of Hea- ven, used to span the ravine- until destroyed by an earth- quake' in 1824, On the other side is a hole about 6 ft. in diameter, called Ni no mon, or Second Gate, • where th& bridge terminated. Ascending, from this point a very narrow erevice by the aid of chains^ the nath reaches the Mi-hara- shi Sready mentioned. Then passing behind a precipitous de- tached rock, called the Bybbii- iwa from its resemblance to & screen, we ascend a gorge, and finally reach the Oku-no-iiv (5,450 ft.), where in thre& caverns are small shrines de- dicated to the three Shinto deities Onamuji, Saruta-hiko, and Sukuna-bikona. It was the second of these whose wor- ship was originally established on this mountain under the title of Koshin. On turning the corner just beyond, we see the tops of Nantai-zan and O-Manago bearing about N., and descending the hill-side, reach the Bessho again in 25 min. from the Oku-no-ii). The des- cent to the huts at the base of the mountain will take nearly 2^ hrs.]

The scenery the whole way along the banks of the Watarase-gaiua is delightful, and especially between Ashio and Godo quite romantic. Occasionally the road actually over- hangs the river, which now flows on in a perfectly placid course^.

Eoiite IS. — From Nikko to Ikao over Hie Konsei-toge. 169

while at others it foams and dashes Amidst tremendous boulders. After passing

Sori (Inn, Komatsu-ya), a glade of fine cryptomerias attests the priestly care formerly bestowed on the temple of Tenno. The road then winds up and down the thickly wooded side of the valley, high above the rushing waters of the river to Godo {Inn, Tama-ya), and Hannwa {Inny * Nakachi-ya). After the latter place it becomes less picturesque, leading for most -of the way across a cultivated plateau. Large quantities of ai are taken both with the fly and the net in the Watarase-gawa, which is rejoined just above

Oiiiama (Inn Tsuru-ya), see p. 161.

[An alternative way from Nikko to Ashio is vi& Chiizenji, whence over the mountains in about 5 hrs. steady walking by a path impracticable for conveyances of any sort. A boat is taken across the lake to a point ^ hr. dis- tant, whence a steep path leads through a wood to the crest of a hill overlooking the lake and commanding a beautiful pros- pect. This climb also takes } hr. Looking round we see, tier upon tier, the forest-clad ridges "that close in the valley of the Watarase-gawa. Ahold, densely' wooded^ hill occupies the fore- ground, and behind it rise the mountains of Kotsuke with the Oyama range in the shadowy distance on the 1., while the whole scene is dominated by the graceful slope of Fuji, its grand height undiminished by the many miles of country that lie between it and the spectator. Through the woods below on the other side of the pass, a glimpse may be caught of the dark waters of Lake Chuzenji, with Nantai-zan beyond. The iremaiuder of the way from the

top of the pass is a descent through narrow valleys * be- tween steep and scantily wooded hills,' and over rough stones along the torrent bed. About 10 m. from Chuzenji the mining vill. of Akakura, with its copper smelting works, is passed; whence to Ashio some 2^ m. further on, the road, though rough and stony, is practicable for jinrikishas.]

ROUTE 18.

From Nikko to Ikao over thb

KONSEI-TOGE. [SHIRANE-SAN.]

Itinerary.

NIKKO :— RL Clio. 3f.

Chuzenji 3 12 Tf

Yumoto 2 27 ^

Top of Konsei Pass 1 18 3}

Higashi Ogawa .... 4 18 11

Sukagawa 1 . 18 3^

Okkai 2 — 5

Ohara 18 3

Takahhra 1 23 4

NUMATA 2 13 5}

Iwamoto 1 22 4

Kami Shiroi 1 10 3

Shiroi 1 24 4

Shibukawa 26 If

IKAO 2 17 6

Total 28 20 69 J

This route is much to be recom- mended to those desirous of seeing something of comparatively un- beaten tracks. A glimpse is ob- tained of the dense forest that covers so large a portion of the central mountain-range; and the valleys of the Katashina-gawa and Tonc-ga\fa, down which most of the latter part of the way leads, are most picturesque. Travellers wishing to return to Tokyo by this route without visiting Ikao can joia the railway at Maebashi, 3 ri

170 TiOUte 18. — From Niklv to Ikao ovej' the Komei-toge.

S7 cho beyond Shibukawa, the railway journey occupying 3^ hrs. The means of transport for bag- gage on this route are : coolies over the Kousei-toge to Higashi-Oga- wa, horses not being taken across the pass; horses to ISumata, and thence jinrikisha or carriage.

To start from Nikko itself makes an awkward division of the journey. The start should be made from Chuzenji, in which case, sleeping the first night at Higashi Ogawa, and the second at Numata, the traveller will reach Ikao on the afternoon of the third day.

The way up the Konsei-toge is a continued gentle ascent through a forest with an undergrowth of bam- boo grass, terminating in a steep climb. Half a i*i below the sum- mit is a small shrine dedicated to the phallic worship of the god £onsei.

Tradition says that tlie original object of reverence wag made of gold, but that having been stolen, it was afterwards replaced by one of stone, Kx-votos, chiefly wood and stone emblems, are often pre- sented at the shi-ine. Very little is known about the origin of phallic worship in Japan, although it appears to have been at one time nearly universal in the country districts, especially those of the I^. and £.

Prom the top of the pass on looking round, are seen the thickly wooded slopes converging towards the dark waters of Lake Yumoto, behind which stands up in bold relief the massive form of Nantai- zan, flanked on the 1. by 0-Manago. To the r. a glimpse is carght of a portion of Lake Chiizenji, while Mount Tsukuba rises in the distant plain beyond. On the Joshu side the thick foliage intercepts all view, and there is an equal absence of distant prospect during the whole of the long downward walk. There is no water for 2 hrs., neither is there any sign of humalL habita- tion in the forest, except a solitary hunter's hut. This likewise is de- serted during the summer, at which season alone the tourist will think of coming this way, since the road is .

practically impassable from the end of October to well on in March. The foliage is very fine, and in the higher part of the forest a peculiar effect is produced by a drapery of moss, hanging in gray filaments from the branches of the tall conifers. On nearing Ogawa-no- Yumoto, a few huts with thermal springs about 1 ri from the vill. of Higashi Ogawa, the path follows a stream flowing down from Shirane-san.

Iliirnshi Oga^fa (Inn by Kurata Einzaburo) is 2,300 ft. above the sea. The Ogawa, from which this vill. takes its name, is a small tributary of the Eatashina-gawa». itself an affluent of the Tonegawa.

[Travellers doing this rou£e in the inverse direction may ascend Shirano-san from Higashi Ogawa, descending on the other side to Yumoto near Chuzenji ► A reason for not attempting the ascent from the Nikko side is its extreme steepness. Even from Higashi Ogawa, parts of the climb are by no means> easy, nor is there any water on the mountain side. Shirane- ' san is a volcano 8,800 ft. high^ and was active as recently as. 1889.]

Leaving Higashi Ogawa and con- tinuing down the valley of the Ogawa, dotted with many hamlets^ we cross over a hill before reaching

Siika^a^va in the valley of the Katashina-gawa. From the ridge, at the foot of which lie two hamlets with curious names — Hikage-Chido- ri, or Shady Chidori, and Hinata- Chidori, or Sunny Chidori, — there is a fine view, on looking back, of this valley stretching far away to the N. The two hamlets are situated on opposite sides of the stream, and united by a bridge.

The terrace -like formation of the hills at the back of Hikage-chidori is very curious. Three terraces at least 2 m. long are distinctly marked, each of the lower two being a few hundred yards wide^ and the

Route 19,-~-Hitac}d, Shimosa, Kazusa, ^ BosJiu.

ITl

iq)per one, sunnount«d by the usual irregular ridge, being from J to f m. in width. The course of these ridges, which seem to mark the successive positions at different periods of a river bank, is S.W. by N.E. We next reach

^kkai (passable accommodation), near which the river dashes over perpendicular walls of granite.

[Opposite Okkai, on the far side of a small affluent of the Kata- shina-gawa, lies the vill. of Oyu. This point affords an opportunity of climbing Akagi- san (see p. 151), the descent being made to Numata on the other side.]

The path now leaves the valley of theKatashina-gawa, and crossing a well-cultivated upland, comes to

Ohara (poor accommodation), whence it winds over the hills and up the Kazusaka-toge. The view from this point is supegrb, including Haruna-san, the Koshu Koma-ga-take, Yatsu-ga-take, Asa- ma-yama, Yahazu-yama, and the Shirane of Kusatsu. At

Takahira) the road becomes level and praaticable for jinrikishas.

Numata (Innj Odake-ya) was formerly a castle-town. Soon after passing it we enter the Talley of the Tonegawa, where trout- fishing is largely carried on. A portion of the river is enclosed with stones and fencing running out from each bank to the centre of the stream, where a bamboo platform inclined at an angle of about 15° is fixed upon baskets filled with stones. The water rushes up this platform and leaves the fish at the top. They are then caught, and kept alive in perforated boxes which are placed on the platform. The scenery is very picturesque almost the whole way from Numata to Shibukawa, the road passing high and rugged cliffs that over- hang the Tonegawa. At one point, -where the cliff rising sheer from the xiver allows no room for a pathway,

a passage about 50 ft. long has been cut through the solid rock.

Shibukawa is a considerable town. Heuce to Ikao is, for the most part, a gentle ascent over grassy mountain slopes. For a detailed account of Ikao and Neigh- bourhood, see Route 14.

EOUTE 19.

Trips in the Provinces op Hita- CHI, Shimosa, Kazusa, and BosHtJ.

1. TOKYO TO TSUKUBA-SAN, KASAMA, AND MITO. 2. TdKYO TO NARITA, KADORI, CHOSHI, AND KASHIMA. 3. KASHIMA TO MITO. 4. TOKYO TO laSARAZU, KANO-ZAN [NOKOGIRI- YAMA] , AND TATEYAMA. 5. TATE- YAMA TO KOMINATO.

These four provinces form a natural division of the oonntry, all partaking more or less of the same characteristics / of flatness and sandiness. The opinion of geologists is that a great part of this district, whose sands seem to have been washed up by the sea, together with tlie wide Tokyo plain which is formed by alluvium washed down from the central mountain-ranges, was submerged in quite recent times, and that only the southern half of the peninsula of Kazusa-Boshtt stood up out of the waves. This process of rising and drying is still going on. The large lagoons on the lower course of the Tonegawa gradually shrink in size, and the same is true of Tokyo Bay. From these considerations, it will be inferred that parts of this district are somewhat di-eaiy travelling. Mount Tsukuba (2,8S0 ft.) in the N., and the S. portion from Kano-zan downwards, with tuff ranges which, though not ex- ceeding 1,200 ft,, seem higher because rising almost directlj' from the sea, will best repay the tourist's trouble. In the S. more particularly, there ai-e lovely views, as well as a mild winter climate due to the Kuroghio, or Japanese Gulf- Stream. _ j

The three provinces of Shimosa, Kazu- sa, and Bosha ancientlj' formed one, under the name Fti9a noKnni, said to have been derived from the excellent quality of the hemp grown there. The district was

172 Eoute 19. — HitacIU, Shimdsaf Kazum, dt Boshu,

subsequently divided into Upper and Iiower, or Kami tm Fuhii and. Shimo tm Fnm, contracted into Kaznm and Shi- indMi, and part of the former was subse- quently coastituted into the province of Awa, better known by its Chinese name of Bosha. * Upper ' and ' Xower * seem to lAive ])een applied to denote the relative proximity of these two provinces to the ancient capital. Kazusa, B "^sliQ, and the j?i'eater part of Shimosa now constitute the prefecture of Chiba, called after a town sitiirtted on the E, shore of Tokyo Bay. Tlie rest of Shimosa and Hitachi are included in the prefecture of Ibaraki, of which Mito is the capital.

1. — Ascent op Tsukuba. AND :Mito.

Mito Railway.

Kasama

stance

From

5kyO.

Names of

Remarks.

Stations.

TOKYO (Ueno),

/'See Northern

48 m.

OYAMAJct

< Railway, (.Route 24.

52t

Yuki.

54*

Kawashima.

5Si

Shimodate

( Alipfht for ( Tsukuba.

06^

Iwase,

71

Fukuhara.

76

Kasama.

78t

Shishido.

Sik

Uchihara.

89*

MITO.

The journey by rail to Shimodate, the station for Tsukuba, occupies a little over 3 lirs. Jinrikishas can thence be taken to the foot of the mountain, a distance of about 6 ri over a level and fairly good road ; and although the ascent to the vill. of Tsukuba is ^ hr. rough walking, the whole journey may be done in an afternoon from Tokyo. There is fair accommodation at

Shilii<»date {Inn, Tomo-ya); but it is best to push on to Tsukuba, where the inns are better. The jinrikisha- nien will act as guides as far as the cleanly little vill. of

Tsnkiiha, {In7i, *Edo-ya), which lies about half-way up the moun- tain^ and contains numerous houses

much|frequented by the people of the province of Hitachi. Most of the inns command a fine view of the plain of Tokyo, stretching away towards Fuji. The ascent of the mountain begins immediately after leaving the vill., the path passing through the grounds of a temple. From this point to the summit of the W. peak, called Nantai-zan ('male mountain '), the distance is about 50 cho. This is the usual ascent, being less steep than the path up the E. and lower peak, Nyo- tai-zan ('female mountain'). At the summit are numerous shrines, of which the chief is dedicated to Izanagi. Similarly, the temple on Nyotai-zan is dedicated to his con- sort Izanami. There is a magnifi- cent view of the Tokyo plain, Fuji, Asama-yama, an^ the Nikko range.

The name Tfuhnha is said to be com- posed of two Chinese words meaninjBT * built bank ;* and the legend is that Izanafri and Izanami constructed the mountain as a bulwark aj?ainst the waves of the Pacific Ocean, which they, had forced to retire to the other side of Kashi- ma, formerly an island in the sea. This tradition is in accordance with the fact, recently verified by geologists, that the E. shores of Japan have been gi'adu- ally rising during many centuries past. One legend says that Tsukuba U a frag- ment of the sacred mountain in Cbtna called Godai-san, which broke off and flew over to Japan. This is supposed to ac- count for the peculiar plants found on it. But the fact is that no l)otanical species occur here that are not also found oil other Japanese mountains, although the inhabi- tants of the vicinity, noticing the differ- ence l)etween the floras of the mountain and the plain, might naturally l)e led to suppose that there was something peculiar about the f oi-mer,

^

Pines and cryptomerias cover the mountain, and the rocks about the summits are difficult to scramble over, the assistance of an iron chain being necessary in parts. From the W. to the E. peak is an interval of about ^ m. The descent from the latter is 70 cho. It passes over and between huge rocks, to which fanciful names have been given, from their supposed resem- blance to portions of the human body. The descent may be made

Ascent of Tauhiba, Kasama. Mito,

178

either to the vill. of Tsukuba or to the hamlet of Sakayori, In the latter case it is advisable to have the jiurikishas sent round to await one, in order to be able to go straight on to Shimodate again. The ascent and descent take about 4 hrs.

Leaving Shimodate, the train reaches in 1 hr. the small town of

Kasaiiia (Inn, *Itsutsu-ya), stand- ing at the base of a lofty hill whose samniit was formerly crowned by the castle of the Daimyo I^Iakino Etchu-no-Kami. The site is easily reached by a path leading from the broad main street of the town. At intervals, traces are still visible of the old stone-faced embankments, of small but deep dry ditches, and of narrow bridges and heavy gate- ways. At the summit are steep flights of stone steps, and above all is the limited space originally occupied by the Daimyo's palace, round which runs a high earthen embankment. The place is interest- ing, and gives a good idea of the style of Japanese fortifications, where nature rather than art had raised the defences. The stronghold must, under any circumstances, have been well-nigh impregnable. The Temple of Inari, once of high repute, is of no great size. It stands on the 1. of the main street, the approach being up a narrow alley, through an almost continuous arch- way of tcriif placed within a few inches of each other. The wood- carvings in the chapel are beauti- ful, the human figures being excep- tionally well -formed.

There' is a jinrikisha road irom. Kasama to !Mito (4^ ri) ; but it is not recommended if the train be available. The time by rail is 50 min. As the train approaches Mito, a number of caves are seen on the 1. in the high bluff on which a portion of the town is built. These galleries were hollowed out for the sake of the blocks used in the manufacture of soft- stone furnaces.

Mito (Inn, Suzuki-ya, with a branch establishment near the railway station), the principal town of the province of Hitachi, and capital of the prefecture of Ibaraki, lies some 3 ri inland from the shore of the Pacific Ocean, and is situated on rising ground in the midst of a wide plain. The town is in three divisions, the Lower Town, the Upper Town, and the Castle Enclosure lying between the other two. The castle, where formerly lived the Princes of Mito, is picturesquely situated on the crest of the lofty ground that rises from the plain. The defences con- sisted of deep trenches on the upper town side, and lofty banks — the edge of the hill, in fact — on the other, with a small moat below. Three large gates and one tower still remain. It is worth walking round the castle and under the beautiful trees within the grounds. The Public Garden on the E. of the upper town, overlooking the large mere of Semba, is also prettily situated.

It was laid out 8om« forty-five years ago by Rekko, the old Prince of Mito, as a retreat for himself after handing over the cares of government to his successor.

A good view is obtained from the summer-house in the garden, where men of note formerly assembled to write verses and practise penman- ship. The staple manufactures of Mito are cloth and paper. Tobacco is also made into cigarettes in large quantities, and a considerable export trade is carried on in both salt and fresh -water fish.

The visitor with time to spare should ride out to the pleasant sea- side hamlet of Oarai, a favourite retreat of the Mito folks. The journey there by jinrikisha with two men takes about 2 hrs.

For the coast road from Mito southwards to Kashima, see p. 177 ; for that north to Taira and Kori- yama, see p. 187.

174 Route 19. — Hitachi, Shimdsa, Kozma, <& Boshu.

2. — TOKYO TO NARITA, KADORI, CHO- SHI, AND KASHIMA.

Itmeranj.

TOKYO to :— Bi. Clio. M.

Ichikawa 3 25 9

Yawata 29 2

Funabaslii 1 12 3J

Owada 2 28 6|

Usui 2 — 5

Sakura 1 13 3^

Shusui 1 3 2^

NARITA 2 9 6^

Ino 3 15 8|

Sawara 2 26 6|

Kadori 28 2

Tsunomiya 18 IJ

CHOSHI (boat) . . 10 15 25^

Total 83 6 81

Omnibuses ply between Ryogoku- bashi (Tok^o) and Ichikawa, where the Treaty Limit is reached at the Ichikawa ferry over the Yedogawa. The road is nearly level the whole way, a remark which applies to this route in general.

Yawata takes its name from a temple standing on the 1. side of the village street, tebout half-way down. The temple buildings are poor ; but by the side of the chapel is a remarkable ichd tree, the trunk of which, about 10 ft. in diameter, has the appearance of being formed of some 40 or 50 trees of different sizes, growing together like a huge faggot.

Funabaslii (Iww, Ebisu-ya) is a large town, a little way inland from Tokyo Bay.

This place is celebrated as having been the rendezvous of the village chiefs who, in 1644, headed by the famous Sakura Sogoro, proceeded to Yedo to protest against the tyranny of the lord of Sakui-a. Sven to protest was in those days a cajntal offence, acquiescence in all the mandates of his superiors Ijeing an inferior's sole and sufficient duty. Not Sogoro only was put to death : his wife was crucified with him, and their three children de- capitated before their eyes. One, a child of aeven, was butchered as he was eating the sweetmeats thrown to him by the compassionate spectators. This pathetic Btory is gi-aphically told in "Vol. II of Mit- ford's • Tales of Old Japan '.

[The carriage road, 4^ ri, to Chiba (IfinSf Kano-ya, Ume- matsu-jia), capital of the pre- fecture of the same name,, diverges r. at the end of the main street of Fun abashi. Three miles before reaching the city, at the fishing hamlet of Jnagi, is a bathing establishment called * Keiki-Kwan, where it may be better to sleep than at Ghiba. A good 2 m. walk from Ghiba is to the famous old temple of Daiganji^ standing in a pine forest where thousands of cormorants roost and build their nests. There is a direct road from Ghiba to Narita through pleasant country.]

To Owada the road traverses an upland country, where some of the best rice in Japan is grown. Some way on, it crosses a narrow canal which brings the Imba lagoon into communication with Tokyo Bay. It then traverses the wide plain of Narashino,. where occasional reviews are held of the troops forming the Tokyo garrison. Th« locality is be- lieved to be haunted by the magic foxes and badgers that play so im- portant a part in Japanese folk-lore.

Usui (Inn, Ota-ya) is a good-sized posting-station on the S. shore of the lagoon.

Sakura (Inn, Kome-ya). At an angle of the road 1., just within view of the trees on the rising ground where the castle formerly stood, is the old execution-grbund, where the farmer Sogoro and his family suffered death in 1645. A large memorial- stone now marks the spot. The road turns to the 1., descends into the town past the castle site, and rises again into the upper town.

The castle was formerly the residence of the chief of the Hotta family, which furnished many statesmen to the Goroju, or Chief Council of the Tokngawa Sh5- guns. Its site is now occupied by the barracks of the garrison.

The temple raised to Sogoro's me- moraty Shusui, is a poor building ; but the number of worshippers is

Temple of Ftido at Narita,

17^

great, and charms bearing the name of the martyred peasant suU in large numbers.

KaritA (Inns^ Ebi-ya, Wakama- tsa-ya) is famed for its great Temple of Ftiddj to which pilgrimages are made from all parts of the country. The wood carvings adorning it are Gpecially noteworthy. Near the great gate is a well where pilgrims perform the ceremony of washing with cold water. Close by is the Danjiki-doj where devotees retire to fast during a whole week, the only i^efreshment permitted to them being the use of the cold bath. Formerly the period was three weeks.

Tradition says that this practice was inatitated about the middle of the 16th century by the saint D5yo, who passed s hundred days in religious exercises. At la«t his prayers were answered by a ▼ision of the god, who offered him the choice of a sha^ or a blunt sword to fiWBliow. The saint chose the sharp one, which the god thrust down his throat, CBusing the blood to flow freely. On awakening he found his intellectual powers immensely increased, and felt no traces of the wound. Nevertheless, priests' robes dyed with the blood shed on this occasion are preserved among the trea- Bures of the temple.

In a chapel close to the Danjiki- do, worshippers may often be seen sit- ting in a circle, and handing round one to another a huge rosary to which a bunch of horse-hair is attached, and chanting the invoca- tion Naviu Amida Butsu, The Ifi-o-nwn, is a massive struc- ture of keyaki wood, ornamented with carvings. Under the archi- trave are eight groups representing Chinese children at play, and sages probably intended for the * Seven Sages of the Bamboo Grove,' whose attributes are chess, music, drawing, and caligraphy. At the r. end are groups of young cock-fighters, and the child delivered from the tall water-jar by his sharp-witted com- panion Shiba Onko, who breaks a hole in it with a stone to let the water escape. In front r. is a sage writing an inscription, 1. a sage playing on the harp. On the 1. aide are children playing, and a

group, the central figure of which dances to the music of flageolet and drum. At the back are groups of checker-players and of sages in- specting a picture.

On ascending the steps of the Honddj or ^lain Temple, the first thing that strikes the eye is the huge receptacle for money- offerings, pre- sented by inhabitants of Tokyo. Above it is a large panel with carvings of phcBnixes gorgeously coloured, and on the r. and 1. of this are coloured panels of peacocks, also in reliefs This is the only colouring about the building, the rest of the exterior being of unpainted keyaki. The two sides and back are decorated with eight splendid panels, each 9 ft. by 4 ft., representing groups of the Gohyaku Rakan in low relief, with an immense variety of incident and portraiture. On the huge doors that close the sliding windows of this part of the building, are carvings of the Twenty-four Paragons 'of Filial Piety.

In the Naijirif or Holy of Holies, is the sacred black image of Fudo, hardly visible in the dim light. Among the rock-work behind, are 36 small bronze figures of children ; in the centre at the top is Fudo in a cave, and higher up bn the r. the saint En-no-Shokaku. The gro- tesque figures popularly called Dai- ra-botchi in the gables, which bear the ends of the ridge-pole, are excel- lent expressions of the effort to sup- port a heavy burden. Round the building under the architrave are groups of fabulous animals. The three-storied pagoda is a very beau- tiful example of this architectural form, finely 'decorated and paiuted. The black groups on the four sides represent the Sixteen Rakan. Close by on the r. is a handsome library (Kyddd)t containing a highly de- corated revolving octagonal box borne on the shoulders of parti- coloured demons. Note the peculiar coffered ceiling painted with kalei- doscopic patterns. In the ex-voto Hall (Eina-do) to the 1. of the

176 Route 19. — HitacJii, Shimosa, Ixazusa, d Boshu,

Library, are pictures of Fudo help- ing suppliants ; also a huge rosary, the string of which is a cahJe made of human hair. A flight of steps leads up to another platform, where stands a large red chapel called the Komyd-dd, or Hall of Resplendent Light, dedicated to Dainichi. Be- hind the Koinyd-do . is a long low cave, at the end of which a figure of Pudo is dimly visible by the light of a lantern.

A shrine called Daishi-doy dedi- cated to Kobo Daishi and contain- ing an image of that saint besides fine carvings of dragons, has recently been added to the temple buildings. Below the temple, too, on the 1., a small exhibition of relics is being Bet up.

[Nearly 17 ri S. of Narita, stands the celebrated temple of Kasa- mori dedicated to Kwannon.

The following is the itinerary.

NARITA to ;— Ri. Clio. M.

Shibayama .. 4 — 9J

Naruto 3 18 sj

Togane 1 27 4j

Oami 1 16 sj

Honno 1 19 3$

!Mobara 1 24 4

Ghonan 2 — 6

KASAMORI.. 1 — 2^

Total .... 16 32 41 J

The temple is built on a plat- form which rests on the point of an irregular conii-al rock some 60 ft. in height, the edges being supported by stout wooden scaffolding, and is reached by three flights of stairs. A country road connects Kasa- mori with Kominato on the Pacific coast, distance about 11 ri. For Kominato see p. 180.]

From Narita the road lies chiefly over moorland to

Kadori. also called Sawara (Inn, Ukishima-ya, besides many others crowding the entrance to the splen-

did grove of trees in which the temple stands).

The temple is dedicated to Fntsn-nnsM or Iwai-nushi, a deified warrior of the mythical i)eriod, whose symbol is a sword. The date of its foundation is unknown, but may })e placed a good deal earlier than the 5th century A.D. The present building was erected at the beginning of the 17th centuiy and restored in A.D. 1700, It is said that, as late as the beginning of the 17th century, the waters of the Tone- gawa came right up to the base of the hill on which the temple stands, and that all the com a,nd rice-fields between it and Tsunomiya have been reclaimed giuoe that period.

The temple is in the mediaeval style of Shinto architecture, with a heavy roof of thick shingling, and is painted red. R. and 1. of the oratory steps, a mirror and a sword, emblematic of the two sexes, are suspended in bags of brocade on branches of the sacred masdkaki tree. Black lacquered doors close the entrance of the chapel. Frozn the back of the grove is a fine view of the plain to the N., intersected by the Tonegawa and the lagoons. Tsukuba is visible to the 1. on a clear day. Kashima lies out of sight behind a wooded hill on the r.

At Tftiiiioniiya boats to Choshi, or to Ofunatsu for the famous temple of Kashima (see next page), can be obtained. Shortly before reaching Choshi the river attains a breadth of over a mile, bat contracts considerably at its mouth, where it rolls between sharp rockB that rise abruptly from the sea. When there is any swell from the E., this bar becomes dangerous.

Choslii {Inns, Daishin, Komai- yasu) consists of several villages extending for over 2 m. along the S. bank of 'the Tonegawa. The chief occupation of the inhabi- tants is fishing. Immense quantities of iwashiy a fish resembling the pilchard but smaller, are calught here and along the coast. They are boiled in huge cauldrons to obtain the oil, which is used for lamps ; . and the residue, dried in the sun, is sent inland for manure. The odour from this process is overpowering.

KasJiivia,

17T

and renders Ghoshi and the coast villages unbearable. Kashima can "be easily reached from the opposite shore, but the road is too sandy to be agreeable, and the best way is to laud at IkisUt from which the distance is a little i^der 3 ri.

[From Ofunatsu it is ^ ri to the vill. of Ksisliiii|a, crowded with inns and restaurants for the ac- commodfiition of pilgrims. The name Ka-shinia means ' deer island/ but the district is an is- land no longer. It consists of a sandy spit, 13 ri by 1 ri, separa- ting the sea from the Kita-ura lagoon, and ending at the mouth of the Tonegawa, oppo- site the town of Ghoshi. The deer used to wander freely through the groves round the, temple, but they have now been almost exterminated. A broad avenue leads to the temple, which is situated in a grove of fine cr3'ptomerias. It consists of an oratory and chapel connected by a short corridor in the usual mediaeval style, painted red, and with a thick shingled roof.

The principal deity here wor- shipped is Take-mika-zucbi. This god was one of those sent down from Hea- ven to Japan, to prepare the advent of the line of earthly sovereigns known Afterwards as Mikados. The temple is usually said to have been founded in the * age of the gods,* and cer- tainly dates from the prehistoric epoch. From the most ancient times it was the practice here, as at Tse, to rebuild not only tlie main temple, but also all the inferior ones around it, every twenty years ; but alx)ut the beginning of tlie 9th century, for reasons of economy, the rule l)ecame confined to the principal building.

The temple faces N. But the box containing the sword which is the embodiment of the god laces E., i.e., towards the Paci- fic Ocean. A narrow path be- hind the temple conducts to a small enclosure containing, the celebrated Kaname-ishit or Pivot Stone, supposed to be a pillar whose foundation is at the centre

of the earth. According to one tradition, it was sanctified by the local god taking his seat on it directly after his descent from heaven. Another account is that under this place is confined the gigantic fish called namaz2iy. whose contortions are the cause of earthquakes, and that the stone acts as some restraint on. the creature's movements. Mi- tsukuni, the second Prince of Mito, is said to have dug for six days round it without finding the lower end. About 1 m. from the temple is a stretch of moor- land called Tahaina no hara^ literally, the Plain of High Heaven, where the gods are supposed to have assembled in days of old, and where stone ar- row-heads are still. often found.].

S. — Kashima to Mito.

Itinei'ary.

KASHIMA to :— Bi. Clio. M.

Ofunatsu — 18 IJ

Hokoda (boat) 8 — 19|

^lomiyama 1 18 3f

Konashi 1 — 2\

Natsumi 2 — 6

Onuki — 18 IJ

MITO 3 — 7|

Total 16 18 40J

The above distances are approxi- mate. From Kashima to Ofunatsu is by jinrikisha. The boat journey from the latter place to Hokoda is across the Kita-ura lagoon. Small hills stretch along the greater part of the shore on either side of the lagoon, especially towards Hokoda. Boats have to wind in and out through a channel traversing the largo reed-grown marsh in front of the tQwn, and then by a wide canal penetrate into its very centre. Pas- sengers are transferred from the steamers to boats, close to the entrance of the channel.

Hokoda (decent accommodation) is a poor fishing village. From this

178

Route 19. — HitdcJdy Shimosa, Kazusa, d- Boshu,

place two roads go to Moniiyama. On leaving the village, there is a con- siderable ascent. Jinrikishas and pack-horses are obtainable ; but as the road is generally in bad order, it is well to be prepared to walk at any rate as far as Onuki.

Moiiiiyaiiia {Inn, Koji-ya) is a poor village. There is a direct and shorter road to this place from Kashima, but it is sandy and heavy travelling.

KonflSlli (inuj Ebi-ya at Benten, just beyond the vill.). The roar of the Pacific can be heard all the way .from Momiyama to this place, and in windy weather clouds of spray Are blown over the low rising ground. Half-way between Konashi and Onuki the road descends from the wooded headlands to the beach, where the view of the Pacific is * very fine.

Nntsumi is the largest of the villages in this part of the country, all small and poor, and inhabited only by fishermen. At

Onuki jinrikishas can be ob- ta ined ; but they are more nume- rous on the other side of the ferry beyond this village; or else boats m ay be taken up the Nakagawa to Mito.

4. — Tokyo to Kisarazu, Kano-zan,

Tenjin-yama [Nokogiri-yama] ,

Kachiyama, and Tateyama.

Small steamers from Tokyo (Rei- gan-jima) to Kisarazu in 3 hrs. For further details of steamers, see p. 64.

Itinerary,

KISARAZU to :— Ri. Chd. M.

Kano-zan 4 23 llj

Tenjin-yama (Mina-

to) 3 — 7i

Take-ga-oka 34 2|

Kanaya 1 31 4|

Motona 1 8 3

Kachiyama 1 — 2^

Hojo 4 14 lOf

TATEYAMA .... 13 1

Total 17 16 42|

Shortly after leaving Kisaraza, the road to Kano-zan gradually as- cends a valley and crosses a do-w range of hills.

The mountain of Kano-znn falso pro- nounced Kano-zan), which rises to Sk heierht of 1,2R0 ftipron the ])onler8 of tlie provinces of Kazusa and Bosha, is » cons]ncuou8 object in the view across Tokyo Bay, and itself commands a macmi- ficent prospect. It is sufficiently elevate*l al)ove the plain to escape the damp ftir which renders Tokyo so unhealthy in. summer, and though not hiph enon/?h to have a temperature markedly below that of the suiToundinj? lowlands, is visited by fresh sea-breezes that render it an agree- able resort during the hot months.

Knno-zan, {Inns, * Yuyii-kwan in foreign style ; Marushichi), a village of about 100 houses, stands on the top of the mountain. It is divided into an upper and lower ^ street, the upper street running E. and W., and the lower N. and S. Be- tween them, surrounded by a mag- nificent grove of cryptomerias and other conifers, stands a large but decaying temple dedicated to Yaku- shi, erected in 1708. The Yuyu- kwan Hotel is situated in the upper street, facing W. The view is superb : — below, the blue waters of Tokyo Bay, beyond which rises Fuji; to the l.,_the Hakone range ; to the r., the Oyama and Tanzawa ranges ; and further N., the Nikko mountains, Akagi-san, and Tsukuba.

The best walk at Kano-zan (abont 1 ri) is to the big camphor-tree {kiisunoki) one of the five largest trees in Japan, and probably 2,000 years old. It is 72 ft. in circum- ference ; the largest branch is 24 ft. in circumference. The way to this tree — and it is very picturesque — leads from a corner in the upper street where there is a school-house just opposite the great temple of Yakushi, and descends in a S. direction along the 1. side of a thickly wooded valley. Branching off r. from the way to the big tree, is a path leading by a steep descent to a pretty waterfall some '85 ft. high. It is about 13 chd, or 1 m., from the vill. that the way to the fall diverges.

Kano-ian. Nokogiri-i/ama,

179

The footpath leading to the ^all is not the first one reached (over which there is a small torii)^ but is about ^ m. further on. Japanese visitors — at least those of the lower class — generally improve the occa- sion by taking a shower-bath under the cascade.

Another good walk is as follows : Passing through the lower street of Kano-zan towards the N., we reach 1. a flight of 218 stone steps, at the top of which is a small Shinto shrine. This is the highest point of the mountain ; but as it is overgrown with tall trees, the sum- mit commands no view. Opposite the steps on the r., a short path le^i^ds to the brow of the hill, whence there is a fine prospect towards the E. and N. The side of the moun- tain here slopes away very abruptly; and below, as far as the eye can reach, lie low but sharp ridges covered with brushwood, intersecting and meeting so as to form -a multi- tude of tiny valleys, in most of which rice is cultivated. The view from this point has received the name of Kujuku Tanif or the Ninety-nine Valleys.

The descent from the village of Kano-zan is by a good jinrikisha road through Sakurai to

Teiijiii-yama or Minato {Inn Fukumoto-ro), a prettily situated vill., containing a few sake breweries and soy manufactories, the produce of which is shipped in junks to Tokyo ; but the population consists chiefly of fisher-folk. A smooth sandy beach with a W. aspect stretches for ^ m. along the shore to the N., affording excellent bath- ing. About a mile away rises Myoken- yama, which commands a fine view. Ascending from the Minato >gawa ^nd following along some cliffs, the road passes through a lofty tunnel hewn in the solid rock, before de- scending again to Take-ga-okx and Hagyu. Here the local wonder is a small cavern containing a well, called Kogane-ido, or the Golden Welly on account of a golden scum

that rises on its surface. More tun- nelling characterises the coast road from Hagyu to

Kanaya {Inn, Kaji-ya). This place possesses an interesting relic of antiquity, known by the name of Tesson Daigongen, which is kept carefully in a small chamber in the rock immediately behind a little Shinto chapel. It is a disc of iron, between 4 and 5 ft. in diameter and some 3 in. thick, split into two unequal parts.

Local tradition says that it was dis- covered in. the bay about six centuries ago by the fishermen of the vill., then consisting of eighteen families, but that its Veight was so great as to render un- availing their united efforts to bring it ashore. They therefore implored it to divide itself in two, promising that they would then land it, and worship it as their patron deity. After passing all uight in anxious expectation, they found that their petition had l>een heard ; and fishing up the two pieces, they placed them in the rock chamber, where the split disc has remained enshrined ever since us the looftl god.

[Instead of continuing along the coast from Kanaya to Motona, it is pleasant to make the ascent of Nokoj^iri-yaniii on the way. This mountain takes its name, which means ' Saw Mountain,* from the serrated ridge of peaks that follow each other in regular gradation from the highest on the E. down to the sea-shore. Bound the promontory thus formed, passes the ordinary road to Motona. A curious feature of Nokogiri-yama is a set of stone images of the Five Hutidred Bakan, scattered over the mountain side. Be- sides these, there is a shrine hewn out of the living rook, in the centre of which is a stone effigy of the person to whose initiative the carving of the other five hundred images was due. The view from the point called Mi-Jiarashi, 850 ft. above the sea, is magnificent. Westward rises the perfect foim of Fuji above the low coast of Sagami, while to the S. a sue*

180

Route 19. — Hitachi, Shimosa, Kazusa, S Boshu,

cession of bays and promon- tories marks the W. coast of Boshu. First comes the vill. of Ypshihama, bent at an obtuse angle along the sea-shore, and beyond it the cape under which nestles the little town of Kachi- yama. To tlife E. are the higher peaks of Nokogiri-yama, and in front the mass of lesser hills intervening between the ridge and the valley of the Tenjin- yama-gawa. The lighthouse on Kwannon-saki is a promi- nent landmark bearing N.W. byN.]

Motona is continuous with Hoda, a convenient place from which to make the ascent of Nokogiri-yama if one is taking this route in the reverse direction. At Hoda the road leaves the sea-shore. It is a pleasant walk to

Kachiyaiim (Inn, Nakajin), for- merly the castle town of a small Daimyo named Honda Tsushima- no-Kami. From Kachiyama the road strikes up into the hills, passes through a long tunnel by the quar- ries of Nokogiri-yama, and descends to Nago, 4^ hrs. from Tenjin-yama by jinrikisha. From Nago to Tate- yama is about 1 hr. walk, in- cluding a glance at the temple of Hachiman, situated in a grove 200 yds. to the 1. of the way. The porch has some good modern carvings, and a coffered ceiling containing seventy two compartments with a dragon carved in relief, the design in each compartment being different. Within is another coffered ceiling, decorated with paintings of birds and flowers.

Hojo (/nw, Yoshino-an), though given in the itinerary as 13 cho from Tateyama, is practically almost continuous with the latter.

Taieyinna [Inn^ Tsuru-ya) com- mands an incomparable view of Fuji across Tokyo Bay. Nowhere else does the mountain seem to rise to so great a height, completely dominating the Oyama and Amagi ranges which extend r. and 1., while on either

hand the shores of the bay stretch round to form a fitting frame for this lovely picture. A steamer leaves Tateyama daily for Tokyo at- about 10 A. M. calling at several places along the coast, and reaches Tokyo in 7 hrs. under favour- able circumstances. Another leaves about noon for Uraga.

6. — Tateyama to Kominato.

Itinerary.

TATEYAMA to :— BL Cho. M.

Hojo 13 1

Takehara 2 5 5^

Matsuda 1 20 3^

Wada 1 18 3|

Emi 1 7 .3 .

Maebara 2 31 7

Amatsu 1 26 4 J

KOMINATO .... 1 8 2^

•

Total 12 15 30^

The 4 ri walk separating Tate- yama at the entrance of Tokyo Bay from Matsuda on the Pacific, is a short cut across the tiny province of Awa at its narrowest part. From

Mati^Udai (Inn, Abura-ya), there is a jinrikisha road along the coast to AniatsUf 1 ri 3 cho from Komi- nato.

Wada (Inn^ Kaneko-ya).

£iiii (Inn, Hashimoto-ya) is a place of some size, standing in what for this part of the country appears a wide valley, about 1 square mile in extent.

Mtiebarai (Inn, Yoshida-ya) stands at the mouth of a small river, the Kamogawa, whence the road leads through a pine-wood and over a sandy shore to Amatsu. A steep promontory has to be climbed before descending again to the sea at

Kominato (Inn, Kadokuma). This village, though so remote and difficult of access — for it is hemmed in on all sides between the moun- tains and the sea — is known throughout Japan as the birthplace of the great Buddhist saint, Nichi- ren.

Kominaio.

181

According to some, the original site of the temple founded by Nichiren himself on the very spot which gave him birth, is now under a stretch of sea called Taino- urof said to be the resort of numbers of tai fish, which are held sacred by the fisher- men. Another tradition is, that from the day of the saint's birth until he was seven days old, two of these fish five feet long nsed daily to appear in the pond in his father's garden, whence the spot, since covered by the waves, took the name of • Tai Bay.' In any case, there is only just snfiicient space between the sea and the Bteep hills behind for the row of houses forming the double vill. of Kominato and Uchi-ura.

The temple raised to the memory of Nichiren is called Tanjdjh or « the Temple of the Birth.' On the 1. after entering the outer gate, is a small square building over the well which nominally supplied the water used to wash the infant saint, — nominally only, because the original spot was overwhelmed by a tidal wave in 1498. We next pass through a huge gate, and see before us the Main Temple, an unpainted wooden building, 72 ft. square inside, built in 1846. The porch has some excellent carvings of tortoises and lions ' heads, and the birds in the brackets of the transverse beams are good. The interior is very simple, its only decoration being four large panels carved with dragons, and a coffered ceiling with the Mikado's- crest painted in each compartment. On the altar stands a handsome black and gold shrine, containiug a life-like image of the saint, who is represented as reading from a richly gilt scroll containing a portion of the Hoke-kyd. The doors of the shrine are closed except during service, when they are thrown open in order that the worshippers may gaze upon Nichiren's countenance.

Two and a half ri from Kominato, and 1^ ri to the N. of Amatsu, stands the vill. of Kiyosumi, cele- brated for its temple dedicated to Kokuz5 Bosatsu. Kiyosumi lies about 1,000 ft. above the sea, and being free from mosquitoes owing to the dryness of the ta£E of which

the hills consist, is much frequented during the summer months by Japanese desiring to escape the damp heat of Tokyo. The temple contains some good carvings.

Those not caring to return from Kominato the way they came, may follow the coast road right round the peninsula. This road diverges from the route already given at Matsuda. The itinerary is as fol- lows.

KOMINATO to :— Bi. Chd. M.

Matsuda 8 13 20^

Shirako 1 6 2^

Asaina 33 2^

Shirahama 2 27 5|

Mera 1 34 4^

Sunosaki 2 27 6^

TATEYAMA .... 3 6 7i

Total 21 1 51i

The road is mostly sandy and heavy for jinrikishas. The best ac- commodation is at Matsuda and Shirahama, the latter vill. being at the extreme S. point of the penin- sula. Here, on the low headland of Nojima, stands a fine lighthouse, the light of which is visible for 20 m. This place enjoys a much warmer climate than other parts of the pro- vince. Luxuriant beds of jonquils and other flowers abound near the sea-shore, and fill the air with their fragrance at Christmas-time. The fishing boats of Mera put out in large numbers during the season to catch bonitos round Vries Island and others of the chain extending S. towards Hachijo. The scenery from Mera onwards is very pretty.

182

Route 20. — Shiobara District.

EOUTE 20.

The Shiobaba District.

nasu. preumachi. ascent op kei- cho-zan. na8uno-tama.

Nasn (Inn, * Nasuno-ya) is reached by the Northern Railway from Tokyo in 4^ hrs. (see Route 24). This place is an outcome of railway enterprise ; so too is the re- demption of a large extent of the moorland which here stretches on all sides, the soil having been found well-adapted to fruit cultivation. Nasu is also the nearest station to the favourite hot-springs of Shio- bara, a place formerly out of the beaten track. Railway communi- cation has, however, brought it within easy reach of Tokyo, and it is now much frequented by all classes of Japanese. The itinerary from the station is as follows.

NASU to .— Ri. Cho. M.

Sekiya 3 — 7i

Owami 1 18 3^

Fukuwata 24 If

Shiogama 13 1

FURUMACHI... 8 i

Total 5 37 14

An excellent road has been con- structed all the way, practicable for jinrikishas and carriages. As far as

Sekiya, at the foot of the moun- tain, it is perfectly level and goes in a straight line across the plain, which is covered with dwarf chestnut- trees,— a part of the journey apt to be found very trying in summer, from the absence of shade of any kind. Pheasants and other game are plentiful in the plain, while in the Shiobara mountains bears are still occasionally shot by the peasant hunters. After leaving Sekiya, the road follows the course of the Hokigawa as it wends its way through deeply wooded

ravines to the plain. At various points glorious views are afforded of the river below, while a number of cascades lend variety to the scene. At the place where the valley narrows until it seems little more than a gorge, the road be- comes highly picturesque. Every summer it suffers severely from the heavy rains; but a staff of men is generally in readiness to effect repairs, so that jinrikishas can always pass. The Owami springs, with a hut or two, are seen from the roadway, at the bottom of an almost precipitous descent. They are in the bed of the river, and are used only by the poorest class of visitors.

FiikiiwAta (Inns, Matsu-ya and others) is, next to Furumachi, the most popular place in the Shio- bara district. At the entrance to the hamlet of Shiogama, a stone has been erected to the memory of the famous courtesan, Takao, who was born near this spot.

[Here a bridge crosses the river, leading to the hot-springs of Shionoyu (16 cho), sitciated in the bed of an affluent of the Hokigawa. The road to these springs is practicable for jin- rikishas, ajad commodious inns have been built on the moun- tain side close by.]

Fnrumachi ( Inns, • Fusen-ro, * Kome-ya, Aizu-ya) lies on the r. bank of th e river, and i^the principal vill. in the district. It is shut in by mountains, rising in beautifully wooded peaks,' one above another around it. Although situated at no great height (1,750 ft.), Furu- machi is cooler than many places at higher altitudes, and is free from mosquitoes and .other insect pests. Visitors would do well to take provisions with them, as the native fare here lacks variety. Being near the old highway to the province of Aizu, a new road was built some ten years

FurumachL Arayu, Ascent of Keicho-zan.

188

ago, during the height of the road- making fever, to connect this dis- trict with Wakamatsu. Solid embankments supported it, and well-constructed bridges spanned the streams. But after a short time it became utterly impassable for a distance of 8 ri from Furu- machi, the traffic over the route being so insignificant that the -expense of maintaining it, damaged as it incessantly was by landslips and heavy rains, was found to be out of all proportion to local re- quirements. It remains to-day as a picturesque ruin, and the old road leading from Imaichi near Nikko is the only one now used.

The whole Shiobara district is dotted with thermal springs. The water at Furumachi is moderate in temperature and mostly free from mineral deposit ; the other springs are somewhat saline. A favourite midday resort for visitors at Furumachi is Sumaki or Taki- no-yu (9 cho), in a hollow of the hilla with a decent inn. Here the water is led in pipes from a spring just above the inn, and & hot douche can be taken. The temple of Myd-onji, a plain thatched structure in the vill., is of little interest. The paintings of the sixteen - petalled chrysanthemum on the ceiling have been ruthlessly blotted out, that flower being the crest of the Imperial family and its use by others now strictly prohibited. The only relic in the possession of the priests — and it is an odd relic in a place of worship — is a piece of the ward- robe of the frail beauty above- mentioned.

A pleasant excursion may be made to Arayii, lit. the Violent Spring, 2 ri from Furumachi. The path leads directly behind the Komeya Inn at the head of the vill., and over the hills in sharp zigzags. The views on the way are amongst the finest in the vici- nity.

[Near the top of the pass^n the 1. is a tarn called Onuma, separated from a smaller called Konunia, the latter situated in. a deeper hollow not visible from the road. A path follows the 'Upper edge of these tarns down to the Shionoyu springs, and, with pretty glimpses of the valleys, also makes a good walk from Furumachi.]

Arayu, which is simply a cluster of mediocre inns, lies on the side of a hill rendered sterile by the sulphureous water that breaks out in several spots. The aspect of the place is very desolate. Arayu is on a mountain road to Nikko, frequently taken by pedes- trians. The distances are approx- imately as follows.

Arayu to : — Ri. Cho. M.

Fujiwara 5 — 12^^

Okuwa 3 — 7i

Imaichi 1 15 3f

Total 9 15 23

Thence train to Nikko in ^ hr. The accommodation en rcmte is poor,

Arayu is the best starting- point for the ascent of Keicho-zan, 3.^ ri, one of the peaks of Takahara- yama (5,880 ft.), the highest moun- tain of the range separating the province of Shimotsuke from Iwa- shiro. The walk is somewhat rough and monotonous for about 1 hr., all view being shut out by woods and low ridges on both sides until the bed of the Akagawa is reached, where the ascent of the Takahara-toge begins. From the top of the pass to the small lake of Benten-ga-ike is a distance of 1 ri, and to the summit a steep climb of 20 cho more. The view from the summit is very extensive, em- bracing Fuji, Nantai-zan, Gwassan, lide-san, Bandai-san, and nume- rous minor peaks. The shrine on Keicho-zan is dedicated to Saruta^ hiko, and the chief time of pilgrimage is spring. An early

184

Fiottte 21,^-Bandai-8an,

start is necessary if the ascent from Furumachi is to be made in one day. An alternative is to make it on the way to Nikko.

Nnsiino-yama can be reached in one day from the hamlet of Nasu. Jinrikishas are taken to the hot- springs of Itamura at the foot of the mountain, where there are several good inns. Nasuno-yama has a fortress-like aspect when seen from the S. Its side is honeycombed with hundreds of sol- fataras.

Near Itamura is the Senthd-i^ki^ or Death-Stone, famous in a legend which has Ijeen tli-amatised as one of the iVe, or Lyric Dramas of mediaeval Japanese literature. The story is that a Buddhist priest, Genno by name, while journeying across the desolate moor of Nasu, pauses to rest l)eneath this rock. A spirit forth- with appears and warns him that, hy remaining in that place, he is risking his life, for that not men only, but even birds and beasts perish if they do but touch it. The spirit and the chorus then recount to him in verse how once upon a time there lived a maiden, as learned and accom- plished RS she was sui^passingly beautiful, whom the Emperor Tol)a-no-In took to liimself as his favourite concubine, and for her sake neglected all the affairs of state. At last one evening, on the occa- Bion of a banquet at the Palace, the lights suddenly went out, and from the girl's body there darted forth a supernatural coruscation that illumined the whole scene, while the Mikado himself was struck down by disease. On the repre- sentations of the court magician, Abe-no- Yasunari, the vile witch— for the pre- tended beauty was evidently nothing better than a witch— was driven from the Imperial presence, and flew away through the air to the moor of Nasu, where she resumed her original shape, that of a fox. In the second act of the play, the spirit appearing again, confesses to the good priest that itself is none other than the wraith of the witch whose story has just been told, and relates furthermore how, after escaping from the Palace, she was hunted by dogs over the moor of Nasu, — the origin, as the chorus obliging- ly stops to explain, of the Japanese sport of inn ou monOf or 'dog-hunting.' The priest then exorcises the evil spirit by nijeans of Buddhistic incantations. But his exorcism seems not to have been X>ermanently effectual, if, as is asserted, poisonous exhalations still issue from the Death-Stone thrice every day. The stone itself is of insignificant size, but is still regarded by the peasantry with supersti- tioos dread.

ROUTE 21.

Bandai-san.

Train by the Northern Eailwray from Tokyo (TJeno station) to • Motomiya in 8 hrs. Whole time of trip, 4 days.

Motomiya (Inuy Mito-ya), itself an unattractive town, is the best place from which to reach the volcano of Bandai-san, noted for its terrific eruption on the morning- of the 15th July, 1888. The itiner- ary to the town of Inawashiro, situated at the foot of the moun- tain, is as follows.

MOTOMIYA to :— Bi. CU. M,

Atami 4 — 9|

Yamagata 2 — 5

INAWASHIEO... 4 — 9f

Total 10 — 24^

Leaving Motomiya by jinrikisha in the morning, Inawashiro will be reached early in the afternoon. The road as far as Atami (decent accommodation) is flat and fairly good in fine weather. Here we join the road from Koriyama station, which is 1 ri longer than that from Motomiya. From Atami to Yama- gata, a vill. on the shores of Lake Inawashiro, the road becomes hilly afad the scenery more varied. A part of the way lies by the side of a canal, which has been constructed for purposes of irrigation. As one approaches the cascade formed by the water of the canal falling over a cliff, it will be found advisable to walk up the narrow path, steep as it is, rather than follow the wind- ings of the main road in jinrikisha. From

Tamagatn {Inn, Kashima-ya), small steamers cross the lake to T(mO' kuchi, the landing-place for Waka- matsu, the capital of the province (see next Boute). Lake Inawcuhiro is a large sheet of water measuring-

Bmidai-san*

185

a.boixt 4 ri in every direction ; and is almost surrounded by a succes- sion of thickly wooded hills, above "which, on the N. sbore, towers the sharp summit of Bandai-san. This lake is not a true crater lake, as has been supposed, but is probably a depression formed by evisceration of the ground, result- ing from the copious outpourings of volcanic matter in its vicinity. Its principal feeder used to be the river Nagase, the upper course of which was entirely stopped by the debris swept down during the eruption of 1888. The lake is now supplied mainly by the Sukawa, flowing from. Dake-yama. It is plentifully stocked with salmon-trout and other fish. The road follows the shores of the lake until the N. end is reached, whence it leads over a wide cultivated area to

Inawasliiro (Inn, Shio-ya), a dull country town lying on the S. E. base of Bandai-san. From here the ascent of the mountain and the circuit of the devastated -district may most conveniently be made.

Bandai-san (6,000 ft.) is the name usually given to a group of ' peaks consisting of 0*Bandai, Eo- Bandai (destroyed), Kushi-ga-mine, and Akahani-yama, surrounding an elevated plain called Numa-no- taira. This group, standing on the N. side of Lake Inawashiro, forms a very conspicuous object in the landscape. When seen from the town of Wakamatsu, on the S.W. side, it appears as a single pointed peak. 0-Bandai, or Great Bandai, is the most prominent of the peaks. Koma-no- taira is supposed to be the remains of the original crater, and the peaks mentioned are pro- bably parts of the wall that encir- cled it. 'Within it were several small lakes or pools, as its name imphes. It was also covered with dense forests, which were destroyed in the last eruption.

•• On the morning of July 16th, 1688, the weather in the Bandai distiict was fine, there being scarcely a cloud; and a gentle breeze was blowing from the W.N.W, Soon after 7 o'clock, curious rumblinf^ noises were heard, which the people thought to be t)ie sound of distant thunder, often heard among the moun<- taiu-tops. At about half-past 7, there occurred a tolerably severe earthquBke, which lasted more than 20 seconds. This was followed soon after bv a most violent shaking of the ground. At 7.45, while the ground was still heaving, the eruption of Ko-Bandai-san took place. A oense column of steam and dust shot into the air, making a tremendous noise. Explo- sions followed one after another, in all to the number of 16 or 20, the steam on each occasion except the last being described as having attained a height above the peaks about equivalent to that of O-Ban^ dai as seen from Inawashiro, that is to say, some 1,280 metres, or 4,200 ft. The last explosion, however, is said to have projected its discharge almost horizoin- tally, towards the valley on the N. And« considering the topography of the moun- tain and the form of the crater, it ie probable that previous discharges were also more or less inclined to the vevtical, in a northerly direction. Tne main eruptions lasted for a minute or more, and were accompanied by thundering sounds which, though rapidly lessening in intensity, continued for nearly two houi's. Meanwhile the dust and steam rapidly ascended, and spread into a great cloud like an open umm^Ua in shape, at a height equal_to at least three or four times that of 0-Baudai. This cloud was gradually wafted away by the wind in tb south-easterly direction. At the inmie- diate foot of the mountain there was a rain of hot scalding ashes, accompanied by pitchy darkness. A little later, dark- ness was still great, and a smart shower of rain fell, lasting for about five minutes. The rain was quite warm. These pheno- mena, as well as the terrcn: and bewilder- ment which they caused among the peasan- try, were described in thrilling terms by the newspapers of the day. While darkness as aforesaid still shrouded the region, » mighty avalanche of earth and rock rushed at terrific speed down the mountain slopes, buried the Nagase valley with its villages and people, and devastated an area of more than 70 square kilometres, or 27 square miles."— (Professors Sekiy» and Kikuchi.)

The total number of lives lost in this great cataclysm, which blew a massive mountains to piece, was 461. Four hamlets were completely buried under the dis- rupted matter, along with their inhabi- tants and cattle, and seven villages were partially destroyed. Whole forests were levelled by the shock, and rivers were blocked up by the ejected mud and rocks. No such disaster had happened

186

Boute 22. — Frinn Niigata to Wakamatsu,

in Japan since the famous eruption of Asama-yama in 1873.

The ascent of Bandai-san from Inawasliiro is usually made by walking for about 2 m. along the old highway which leads to the West Coast. A path then turns sharp r. over the grassy moor, and for a considerable dis- tance is a gradual climb. When the higher and thickly wooded part of the mountain is reached, the ascent becomes much steeper. , Looking backwards, glorious views of the extensive plain in which Wakamatsu is situated are ob- tained at various points. A walk of about 3 hrs. should bring one to a point on the W. side of the mountain and not far from the crater wall, where the full force of the explosion may be best realised. The awful scene of havoc bursts upon one with bewildering suddenness. The path then de- scends, and passes over the sea of mud and rocks in the direct line of eruption, till the hill shutting out the valley of the Nagase-gawa 18 encountered. Crossing this and walking over the site of the annihi- lated hamlet of Kawakami, we next come 3 m. further down the valley to the hamlet of Nagasaka, whose inhabitants, in endeavouring to escape to the hills opposite, were overwhelmed by the sea of mud. At th^ vill. of Mine, less than f m. from Inawashiro, a deflected por- tion of the muddy stream was arrested, and may be seen piled up several feet thick. Great changes have since taken place in the ap- pearance of the devastated area, through the effects of erosion upon the rugged masses of rock and mud that had been left by the cata- strophe. The dammed-up waters of the Nagase-gawa now form a large lake, 6 or 6 m. long and about 1 m. broad. But taken altogether, the spectacle is still one of the most weird and engrossing to be seen in any part of the world.

The circuit of the mountain as here described occupies a day,, but leaves little time for investiga- tion of any kind. Provisions should be obtained at Inawashiro before starting. Guides are al- ways procurable.

ROUTE 22.

From Niioata to Wakamatsit (alzu), and to ivjotomita on

THB NOBTHEBN EaILWAT.

Itinerary.

NIIGATA to :— Bl Cho. M.

Kameda 3 13 8^

Yasuda 5 28 14

Komatsu 3 11 8

Iwaya (Mikawa) 2 4 5^^

Tsugawa 2 18 6

Torii 3 6 7f

Nozawa 4 10 10^

Banee 4 34 12

WAKAMATSU... 3 7 7f

Total 32 23 79^

This journey, practicable for jin- rikishas, but over rougl^ and moun- tainous roads, may be made in 2^ days. One ri is saved by taking boat on the Shinano-gawa from Niigata to Kameda. The first night*s halt should be made at Kouiatsn {Inrit Komatsu-ya).

[At Tsiigawa, the Agano-gawa is often resorted to by those taking this route in the in- verse direction. Niigata can thus be reached in one day from Tsugawa ; but if it is slack water, a halt must be made somewhere for the night. The boats are about 45 ft. long^

Eoute 23. — From Koriyama to Taira d Mito,

187

by 6 ft. broad, and are pro- pelled by one man sculling at the stern, and another pulling a short-bladed oar, worked in a loop of wistaria at the bow. For about 12 m. the river^ hemmed in by lofty cliffs, studded with rocks visible and sunken, making several abrupt turns, and shallowing in many places, hurries the boat swiftly along. The rapids are on a small scale, and any- thing but formidable.]

The p»rt of the route between Iwaya and Nozawa will be found the stiffest, but the most pictur- esque. The road passes along the side of a ridge above the rapid Agano-gawa, with fine grey cliffs on its further side, and commands excellent views of the abrupt pre- cipices of lide-san and Myojin- tskke on the S.W. There is fair accommodation at

Kozawa (Inn, Hotei-ya). Leaving

Bange (several inns), the road enters the cultivated plain in which Wakamatsu lies.

Wakamatsn {Inns, *Shimizu-ya, Mroato-ya), formerly the castle- town of the Prince of Aizu, is situated nearly in the centre of a great oval plain of from 10 to 12 ri in its longest diameter, constituting what is properly called the Aizu country. The plain is fertile, culti- vated with rice, and watered by many streams that descend from the surrounding mountains and unite to form Lake Inawashiro.

The Aizu clan specially distinpuished itself fighting on the Shogun's side during the civil war of 1868— indeed, their enemies termed them 'the root of the rebellion/ Though their cause was a losing one, their gallantry is none the less remembered. Even lads of fourteen and fifteen years followed their fathers to the field.

The Daimyo's castle stood on a hill, a short distance from the town ; but it has been razed to the ground. With the exception of some fine old trees, dilapidated gateways,

and remains of moats, nothing re- mains to attest the former glory of the place. Wakamatsu is a con- venient point from which to make the ascent of Bandai-san, described in Eoute 21. A pleasant walk can be taken to Higashi Oyama {Inn, Shin-taki), a village of tea-houses 1 ri to the N. of the town, situated in a deep ravine through which flows a stream of considerable volume, and much frequented on account of its hot-springs. The waters, which gush out of the rocks on the r. bank of the stream, have neither taste nor smeU. Their temperature varies from 122° to 131° F.

Leaving Wakamatsu, jinrikishais are taken to Tonokuchi, a distance of 4 ri, whence small steamers ply across Lake Inawashiro to Yama- gata (see p. 184). Then by jinri- kisha to Motomiya, 6 ri, whence rail to Tokyo.

EOUTE 23.

From Koriyama thbodgh the

Province of Iwaki to Taira

AND Mito.

Though the province of Iwaki is not generally considered attractive to tourists, the following itinerary is given for the benefit of such as may desire to traverse it.

Starting from Koriyama, 7 hrs. from Tokyo on the Northern Eail- way, we take the road leading through Miharu to Taira on the Pacific Coast, and thence diverge S. to Mito in the province of Hita- chi, 5 hrs. from Tokyo by rail. Time, 4 or 5 days.

J85 Bonte 23,-^Fr(m Eonyama to Taira d Mito.

Itinerary.

KORIYAMA to :— RL Cho. M,

MIHARU 3 11 8

Kadosawa 3 10 8

Ono-niimachi ... 3 15 8^

Kawamai 4 8 10^

TJwadaira 4 3 10

TAIRA 2 14 5J

Yumoto 1 30 4>k

Tanabe 1 33 4|

Sekida 2 33 7

Kamioka 1 31 4f

Takahagi 3 22 8f

Sukegawa 4 5 10

Onuma 2 15

Ishigami-Sotojuku 2 2 5

Tabiko 2 15 6

MITO 2 31 7

Total 46 11 113

The road is practicable for jin- rikishas throughout, but mostly heavy travelling.

Miharu {Inn, Omiya). Between this town and Kadosawa, a small

vill. with poor accommodation, the Kazakoshi-toge, the only ascent of any note on the way, is encoun- tered. Bice and tobacco are exten- sively cultivated in the neigh- bourhood. Ono-niinmchi (Inn, Kiku- ya), which is about half-way to Taira, may be made the end of the first day's journey. From Kavja- mai to Uwadaira the scenery im- proves, the road following a nar- row vaUey between low hills. Beyond

Tnira (Inn and resit., Sumiyoshi), which lies in a beautifully fertile plain, the country becomes flat and uninteresting. Tumoto (Inn by Anataki Tokujiro) possesses hot- springs of some local celebrity. Near Tanabe is the port of Onahama. There are hot-springs at Kamioka (Inn, Tokai-ro). Accommodation can be had at TahaJmgi (Inn, Kashiwa- ya), and at Sukegawa (Inn, Ebi- ya). Between Onuma and Owada the road leaves the coast, and strikes inland to Mito (see p. 173).

i

\

1

SECTION II.

NORTHERN JAPAN

(Routes 24 — ^1.

Eoiite 24:. — Northern Railway d Oshu Kaido.

191

ROUTE 24.

Thb Nobthesn Railway and the Oshu Kaido.

vbom tokyo to sendai and mobi- oka by bail. fb03i fukushima

TO YONEZAWA BY THE KUBIKO KAIDO. FBOM YONEZAWA vid.

BANDAI-SAN TO MOTOMIYA. FBOM IGHIN08EKI TO SHIOGAMA DOWN THE KITAKAMI-GAWA. ASCENT OF OANJU-SAN. FBOM MOEIOKA TO AOMOBI BY THE OSHU-KAIDO. THE TAKEYAMA PENINSULA.

Names of

Remarks.

s^

Stations.

TOKYO (Ueno).

4 m.

Oji

See p. 05. Change trains

-wj* •■•••••••••••••••••••

in eomingi

6i

Akabane Jet

8. for Shim-

bashi (To- 1 kyo) and

12f

Urawa.

Yokohama.

\&i

Omiya Jet.

m

Hasuda.

«i

Kuki.

m

Knrihashi.

88

Koga.

^Change trains ( for Mito line

48

Qyama

< and for sta>

/ tions on the

^ Ryomo By.

57

Ishibashi.

65}

utsunomiYa

( Change trains i for Nikko.

761

Nagakubo.

83}

Yalta.

sio

Nasu

lAlight for ( Shiobara.

•

W

Kuroiso.

107i

Toyohara. SHIRAKAWA.

113}

183

Yabuki.

ISO

Sukagawa.

137} 146

Kdriyama

Road to Taira. jAlight for ( Bandai-san.

Motomiya

162

Nitionmatsa.

157}

Matsukawa.

166 ,174}

nsi}

1^7} 195} 200} 2(?4i 208}

215}

220}

230

242}

240}

2504

264}

272

281}

287}

208}

S06 316}

328

FUKUSHIMA..

Kori.

Kosugo.

ShiralBhi.

Okawara,

Tsukinoki.

Iwanuma.

Masuda.

senbai

Iwaklri.

Matsushima.

Kogota.

8emine.

Ishikoshi.

Hanaizuml.

ICHIN03£KI.

Maezawa.

Mizusawa.

Kui-osawajiri.

Hanamaki. Hizome.

MORIOKA .

f Road to Yone- C zawa.

f Branch line to \ Shiogama.

I Road to Akita ' (see Rte.

\

26).

/'Present ter- \ minus. Road 1 to Akita (see C p. 204).

The Nortliem Eailway, from Tokyo to Aomori is open as far as Morioka. The line follows the route _of the old highway called the Oshu Kaido for a great part of the way to Sendai, where it makes a deep bend to the E. to avoid a hilly portion of the country, but agaiii^ joins it near Ichinoseki. The Oshu Kaido is well-maintained throughout its length of 191 ri from Tokyo to Aomori, and remains nne of the finest roads in the Empire. The pines, cryptomerias, and other conifers lining it are frequently seen from the carriage windows ; but not until the train reaches Utsunomiya, the junction for Nikko, with the glorious range of mountains rising in the back-> ground, can the railway rout« be said to offer much in the way of natural beauty. The best places at which to break the journey are Fukushima and Sendai. The Northern line branches off from the Tokyo-Takasaki- Yokokawa Railway at Omiya (see Route 12).

A short distance beyond Knri-

192

Boute 24> — KortJieiii Railway d Oshu Kaido,

Iiasliij the Tonegawa is crossed by a. fine iron bridge.

The Toneprawa, which waters the plain •of T9kyo, rises on Monju-san in the pro- vince of Kotsuke, and after a course of 170 m., empties itself into the Pacific at Choshi, while a second arm falls into Tokj'O Bay. Lajyoons line its lower course, and from both mouths sandbanks stretch out far into the sea. The Daiya- ^wa, which flows past Nikko, is one of its affluents. Owing to the volume of the river and the flatness of the surrounding country, inundations with disastrous re- sults are frequent. The name Tone is a relic of the time when the Ainos wandered over Eastern Japan, before the occupation , of the country by the Japanese. It is a corruption of the Aino word fanne, * long,* this nver having naturally been called the Long River, in contradistinction to the ftmailer ones of the same district.

Kogn {Inn, Ota-ya) was formerly the residence of a Daimyo. River steamers run from here to Tokyo daily, making the journey in about 14 hrs. (see p. 64). Beyond this place the mountains come in view, the peaks of Tsukuba on the r. And the Ashikaga hills to the 1., with the giants of Nikko looming in the distance ahead.

Oyoma (Inn, Eado-ya) is a prosperous town, where the Mito Railway branches off to the r. and the Byomo Railway to Maebashi to the 1,

Utsnnoilliya (Inn, * Shiroki-ya), formerly the castle-town of a Dai- myo, is now the capital of the pre- fecture of Tochigi. The town suffered severely during the civil war of 1868. It takes its name from the large Shinto temple of Fvia-ara-yama no Jinja, or Nikko Daimyojin, dedicated to the me- mory of a son of the Emperor Sujin.

This prince, who belongs to the legen- dary period of Japanese history, is said to have been created ruler of Eastern Japan, and to have founded several families of local chiefs.

Leaving Utsunomiya, the line begins to ascend, and passes through a pleasantly wooded country until it enters the wide plain of Nasu, in the midst of which lies the little viU. of

Nasn (Inn, Nasuno-ya), whidi. has grown around the station o£ the same name. It is a busy place in. summer, on account of the visitors to the Shiobara district, described in Route 20. The line continues ta ascend in more or less steep gra> dients until its highest point is reached at an elevation of 1,160 ft^ at

Sliirakawa (Inn, Isami-ya), a flourishing little town, and for- merly the seat of a Daimyo named Abe. The train .passes within sight of the ramparts of the old castle. The town is situated on the upper waters of the Abuknma- gawa, a fine river which rises on Asahi-dake, and flowing N. dis- charges into the Bay of Sendai, — length 125 m. from its source. One of the most stubborn contests in the war of the Restoration took place around here in 1868. A road branches off from Shirakawa to Wakamatsu, the capital of Aizn, 17i ri distant.

Koriyiima (Inn, Ebi-ya) is a flon- rishing town, in the vicinity of which silkworm breeding and silk manufacture are extensively cap* ried on. A road from this place leads to Bandai-san, but that from

Motomiya (Inn Mito-ya), the station beyond, is to be preferred (see Route 21).

NihonmAt8n (Inn, Yamada-ya) is a pictui'esquely situated town, built on the sides of an exceedingly steep hiU, and extends a ri in length. It is one of the principal silk-pro- ducing towns in the province. The valley of the Abukuma-gawa opens out after

Matsiikawa is passed, and the broad sweep of the couatry to the 1. is very fine.

Fnkiisliima ( Inn, * Matsuba- kwan) is the capital of the prefecture of the same name, and was formerly the castle-town of the Itakura family. It is ^ good place at which to break the journey northwards.

From Fukushima to Yonezatca.

i9a

Part of the castle was burnt during the civil war of 1868. Fukushima is an important centre of the trade in raw silk and silkworms' eggs, and during the season is the head- quarters of the T5kyo silk-buyers. The number of weU-constructed buildings in European style gives the town an unusual air of prospe- rity. The pine-clad hill called 8hin6bu-yama, a prominent feature in the landscape from the railway, standing alone in the midst of the plain with a Shinto temple and public garden at the foot, is worth a visit. A pleasant walk or ride may be taken to a small temple and pagoda of the Tendai sect, known as the Shinohu Mojizuri Kwannon, about 1^ ri from the town. Within the pagoda are en- shrined the Oo-cM Nyorai, or Five Personifications of Wisdom. The Mojizuri-ishi or ' letter rubbing- stone/ is a huge block of granite to which allusion is found in Japanese poetry. Neither the origin nor the appropriateness of the name of the stone can be veri- fied. The large stone Jiz5 behind is a somewhat curious piece of sculpture.

The extinct volcano of Azuma- yama (6,365 ft.), the highest mountain in the district, lies to the W. of the town, and has a soKatara at the top. It may be best as- cended from here; but the distance is estimated at over 8 ri, and guides are difficult to obtain.

[Fukushima to Yonezawa by

THE KUBIKO KaIDO.

Itinerary.

. F 0 KUSHIM A to :— Ri. Chd. M.

Sekiba 2 20 6^

Odaki 2 7 5i

Ohira 2 12 5i

Kariyasu 2 8 5^

YONEZAWA ... 3 3 n

Total 12 14 30i

^ ■ - ■-

This road, known as the Kuriko Kaido, from a long tunnel through the mountain of that name, leads over a difficult mountainous district, and is one of the finest pieces of engineering in the North. Completed about 1881, after very heavy outlay owing to unavoidable tunnelling, it at once became the main road to Yonezawa, — the old road, little better than a track, which passed over a ridge of Azuma- yama at an altitude of about 2,500 ft., being impracticable for vehicles of any kind. The traffic over the new road is considerable, railway commu- nication to Fukushima hav- ing brought Yonezawa so much nearer to the chief mar- kets. Carriages are available ; but jinrikishas are much to be preferred, the journey then taking. from 8 to 10 hrs. A good level road runs across the plain to the foot of the mountains at Sehiha, a poor village. Just before entering the first tunnel, 1 ri 10 chd from Sekiba, the road is cut out of the sheer cliff ; and the stream, one of the tributaries of the Abukuma-gawa, runs in a deep gorge some hundreds of ft. below. A short distance beyond, the stream is crossed by a bridge, and the road from this point onward for about a mile is very picturesque. Odaki is a posting-station,^ where the accommodation is poor, as indeed it is at every halting_- place on the way. From Odaki to Futatsu-goya^, where, as the name implies, there are two resting-houses, it is a steady ascent, although nowhere can the gradient on the Fukushima side be said to be very great. A second tunnel of 3 chd 14 hen in length is here encountered. A

194

Eoute 24, — Norifiem Eailway S Oshu Kaidd.

moderate descent is then made to Ohira, whence the road again ascends for 12 chb until it reaches its highest level, about 3,000 ft., where Kui-iko- yama is pierced by a tunnel 8 cho 25 hen (over \ mile) in len gth . The sides of the moun - tains are densely wooded, the oak being specially noticeable j water also is plentiful. Pine torches have to be purchased at the entrance of the tunnel, the passage through which is very wet and rough. At in- tervals, the tunnel is widened so as to admit of carriages crossing each other freely. The telegraph line is carried through the tunnel by means of a cable enclosed in tubing. On the Yonezawa side, at the entrance, is a large stone tablet recording the history of the undertaking. It states that the tunnel was com- menced in December, 1876, and finished in October, 1880, at a cost of $126,900, of which sum the Government made a grant of $31,900, the remainder being subscribed by the people of the province. The first part of the descent from the long tunnel is steeper than that on the Fukushima side; but after pass- ing Kariyasu, the fertile plain is reached, and this portion of the journey to Yonezawa can be accomplished in 2^ hrs. Yonezawa {Inns, Akane-ya, Takahashi; foreign restt.,Kato), formerly the castle-town of the great Uesugi family, is situated near the S.E. extremity of a rich and fertile plain, sur- rounded by lofty mountains and watered by the Matsukawa and several tributary streams that form the upper waters of the Mogami-gawa. The town itself, though large, has not ;a striking appearance. The houses are thatched, and the

streets mostly narrow, rongli^ and neglected.

Unlike their brethren in other parts of Japan, the old mmnrai aie here the .wealthiest portion of the ' population, retaining in their hands the bulk of the silk produced in the neighbourhood. This state of affairs is said to arise from the fact that when Uesugi was deprived, as » punishment, of a large part of his fief by the government of the day, his retainers had to eke out their liveli- hood by their own industry, and the habits thus inculcated stood them in good stead when the revolution of 1 8€W swept over the land, and deprived them of their class privileges.

The castle has been razed to the ground; but the temple dedicated to Uesugi Kenshin, an ancestor of the family and a mighty warrior of the 16th century, still remains, and an anniial festival is held there on the 13th of the 3rd month, old calendar. Close by are situated the imposing-looking local government of&ces.

Bandm-san may be reached in 1 day from Yonezawa viit Hibara, at the head of the lake formed after the last eruption of that volcano. Boats are available across the lake to the foot of the mountain, whence the traveller may walk over the scene of the eruption, and down to Tonokuchi on the shores of Lake Inawashiro on the evening of the second day. Thence by steamer to the hamlet of Yamagata on the lake, by road to Motomiya, and by rail to Toky5 on the third day, making a most interesting excursion.]

From Knori {Inn, Nishi-ya), the^ silver mines at Handa may be reached in 1 hr. The hot-springs of lixdka are also best reached from this station. The railway now traverses the most picturesque portion of the route, and passing by the important town of

Shiraisni (Inn by Akajima),

Sendau

195

affords a constant change of moun- tain scenery until

Iwannma is reached, whence it proceeds to Sendai through level country.

Sendai {Inns, Harikyu, Shimoda, Kikuchi; also the clubs Yushu-kwan and Mutsu-kwan, the latter near the railway station, attached to both of which are public restaurants where European food can be obtained), capitel of the province of Eikuzen and of the prefecture of Miyagi, is situated on the 1. bank of the Hiro- se-gawa, and was formerly the castle-town of Date Mutsu-no-Kami, the greatest of the northern Dai- myos. The castle, a fine natural stronghold lying on the r. bank of the river, was partially destroyed during the civil war of 1868. It is now used as barracks for the garrison. The town is noted for its manufacture of ornamental ar- ticles, such as trays, etc., made of fossil-wood (jindai-sugi) found in a hill near the town ; also for a kind of cloth called shifu ori, made of silk and paper and suitable for summer use. Foreign buildings are tolerably numerous, amongst the principal being the Grovern- ment schools which stand on a large open space to the E. of the town, and the Post and Telegraph Office in the main street. The small Public Garden commands a good view toward the castle and the mountain-ranges beyond. For- merly a number of valuable old lacquer and other relics belonging to the ex-Prince of Sendai, as well as the presents given by the Pope to the mission headed by Hashi- kura Rokuemon, who was sent to Borne in 1615 by Date Masamune, were preserved in the town ; but they have lately been dispersed to various parts of the Empire. Some of these interesting relics are to be seen in the Miiseum at Ueno in Tdky6 (p. 82). The convict-prison of Sendai is one of the largest in Japan. Outside Sendai, at Aramaki

on the N., are a number of potteries where coarse pans and jars are made.

Though ordinarily treated as a mere place of rest by the traveller en route to Matsushima and the North, a few hours may profitably be spent at Sendai in visiting the temple of Zuihdden, where lie the ashes of Date Masamune, and afterwards proceeding to Atago-san, from which a lovely view of the surrounding coun- try is obtained. The temple stands on Zuiho-san, a part of the old castle grounds, and is approached by an avenue of lofty cedars. Just beyond the first torii is a fine large stone tablet, erected to the memory of 142 Sendai men who fell in the Satsuma Rebellion. The temple is then reached by a flight of steps. The sixteen-petalled chrysanthemum (a crest on the outer gate retained by special per- mission of the Mikado), and the fine bronze cistern close by, are worth inspection. The haiden is of black lacquer with coloured cornices. The kara-nion gate has some good carvings of tigers and dragons ; but they are inferior to those on the Okvrno-in, or inner temple, where ,the i^rojecting rafters take the shape of carvings of mythological monsters. Within. is the tomb, having upon it a seated statue of Date Masamune. On each side of the Okvr-no-in stand stone monuments to the memory of twenty faithful retainers who, when their lord died, sacrificed their own lives in order to foUow him to the land of shades. The pla<5e is surrounded by lofty crypto* merias, and resembles, but on a much less magnificent scale, the site of leyasu's tomb at Nikko. The monument close by, erected by Date Masamoto, records the loss of a thousand men of Sendai in the war of the Eestoration.

A path leads down 1. through, the valley, and then up to the

196

Boute 24. — Nortliem Bailwmj S Oshit Kaido,

ridge called Atago-san, facing the town. The view from the tea- sheds on the top is exceptionally beautiful. The river winds round the foot of the hill, the town spreads out in front embedded in a mass of foliage, the mountains lie behind, while to the r. is a broken country consisting of uplands dotted with clumps of trees, and an open plain beyond extending to the sea. The summit of the sacred isle of Kinkwa-zan is also occasion- ally visible. Th»- path descends to the river, which is crossed on a long bridge of planks. There are various other minor places of interest in Sendai and its immediate vicinity. Diverging considerably to the E., the railway route passes through a fertile stretch of country, with little to arrest the traveller's at- tention.

Matsnshima takes its name from the well-known vill. on the shores of the Bay of Sendai, 1 ri distant. For a description of the beauties of this celebrated spot, see Boute 30.

From Kogota, carriages run to WaJcuya, 1^ ri, and to Furukawa on the Oshu Kaido, 2 ri.

[Waknya is of some historical intereRt, as having been in the possession of Date Aki, who lost his life in the cause of Tsunamuue, third Prince of Sendai under the Tokugawa Sho- g^ns, and whose story forms the subject of the popular drama entitled Sendai Hagi. Tadamnne, the second Prince, hail an illegitimate son.known as Hyobu Shoytl, who, discontented with his lot and envious of the great Sendai estates falling to another, secured the aid of Harada Kai, chief controller of the Prince of Sendai* s afiFairs in Yedo, in a plot to ruin Tsunamune. The young prince was then living in Yedo, and Hyobu's object was to leeul him into such a career of dissipation as would end in his fall. In this the plotters partially succeeded. Tsunamune retiqmedto Sendai from the capital, taking the fomous courtesan Takao with him as his mistress, an act in itself , if known to the Shogun, sufficient to cause bis effacement from the roll of Dai- myos. At this stage his faithful adherent Date Aki and others inter- posea, and on the plea of illnesa

got the Sh9gun to consent to their lord's retirement and to the appoint* ment of his son Kamechiyo, a child but seven years old. Through the in- fluence, however, of Sakai TJta-no- Kami, prime minister of the Shogun, whose daughter had married Hyobu's- son, Hyobu himself was appointed guardian of Kamechiyo. Several attempts were made by both Hyobu and Harada to get rid of the young^ prince by poison, all of which failed through the devotion ofi Aki's- daughter, whom he had left as gov- erness for the boy. Eventually, armed with ample proof against the conspiititorB, Aki laid the case before the ShSgun at Yedo. Uta-no- Kami undertook to defend his son- in-law, while Itakura, another noted minister, espoused Aki's cause, and after a lengthy trial Hyobu and Harada were found guilty. But a petition for a new trial was granted, and it was in the course of this trial at the prime minister's residence, that Harada stole upon Aki and slew him on the spot. Prevented iu a further attempt to murder Itakunv also, he killed himself. This occurred in 1671.]

Ichinoseki, also called fwai (Inris, Kumagaya Seibei, Tama* moto-ya), a town consisting chiefly of one long street lying in a fin© valley on the banks of the Iwai- gawa, was formerly the seat of a Daimyo named Tamura. At Ichino- seki the railway strikes the valley of the Kitakami-gawa, which it follows up past Morioka.

This important river rises at the vill. of MidO on the northern frontier of the province, and has a course of about 175 m. dlie S. to Kofunakoshi, where it divides into two branches, one flowing 8. into the Bay of Sendai at Ishinomaki, the other into the Pacific Ocean. It has numerous affluents, and affords ready means of transport for the produce of the largo extent of country drained by it. Rice, wheat, beans, and hemp are generally cultivated in the district. Trout are plentiful in the rivers of this part of Japan.

[From the port of Eozenji (no inns), about 2^ m. from Ichino- seki by a good jinrikisha road, there is a line of river steamers running daily to Ishinomaki and Shiogama. The steamer starts at daylight, reaching Ishinomaki about noon. After a short stoppage^ it aacenda

The Kitahami-gaiva. Chusmiji.

197

tlie river again to enter the Nobiru canal, and then pass- ing through the Matsushima archipelago; reaches Shiogama about 4 P.M. Delays, however, are frequent, owing to the numerous stoppages made en route to take in carsjo. The nver scenery is very pretty in places, but the steamers are small and uncomfortable. Sta- tions from which large square nets are dropped into the river by levers, are seen on the per- pendicular bluffs. The slate- quarries for which Ishinomaki is noted, are passed on the 1. before reaching the town.]

At a distance of 2.^ ri from Ichi- noseki is situated the far-famed monastery of Chusonjiy in which many interesting relics of Yoshi- tsune and Benkei are preserved. Jinrikishas may be taken to the tea-house at the foot of the hill on which the temples stand. The road from Ichinoseki follows an excel- lent portion of the old highway ; and shortly after the railway line has been crossed, the approach to Chtisonji — a lengthy avenue of grand cryptomerias — is reached. No attempt should be made to go further except on foot; it was incumbent in old days on the Mikado's envoy himself to alight here, even if he were merely passing by the sacred hill. Per- mission can readily be obtained to inspect the treasures, on applica- tion at the Local Government (Mice {Gun Yakusho) in Ichinoseki. The buildings are closed as places of worship, being now simply re- tained as store-rooms for the temple treasures ; but they are still in the care of the Buddhist priests, who will conduct visitors around. A fee should be offered to onfe of the priests on leaving, ostensibly for the maintenance of the buildings, which indeed sadly need repair.

The monastery was foanded by Jikaka Baishi in the 9th centuiy, and attained

its greatest prosperity under the patron- age of Fujiwara Kiyohira. The buildings once numbered forty in all, with residences for 300 priests.

A short distance up the avenue, a fine and extensive view of the valley of the Kitakami-gawa is obtained. The principal buildings shown are the Jizo-do, Konjiki-do, Issaikyo-do, and Benzaiten-do. All are plain wooden structures, de- void of colour or ornament except some carvings and flower-paintings on the Jiz6-d6. This is the first building met with on tUe 1. of the avenue. It contains figures of Yoshitsune and Benkei, said to be their own handiwork. In the Issaikyo-do are three fine sets of the Buddhist scriptures. But the most interesting building is the Konjiki-do, once covered with a coating of gold that gave it tjie name of Hikaru-do, or Glittering Hall, by which it is most commonly known ; but only faint traces of the gold are now discernible. The main pillars are lacquered, and inlaid with shells broiight from Rome by the mission sent there in 1615 by Date Masamime. Here as elsewhere, however, time and neglect have left their mark. Among the treasures carefully pre- served, are two paintings of Chii- sonji by Kanaoka (A.D. 859-876), the first great Japanese painter ; also paintings of Yoshitsune and Benkei said to be by themselves ; — good, bold pieces of colouring. The relics here include some fine images of the chief deities worshipped by the Tendai sect. Benkei's sword and other possessions may be seen in the Benzaiten-do. Altogether, the collection of objects of both artistic and historic interest is rich and varied, and well merits inspection. Instead of returning to Ichino- seki, the traveller may resume his journey northwards by train at

Mneznirn (Inn, Sato-ya), 1 ri 24 eho beyond Chusonji. Just before reaching this station, the Ko-

198

Boiite 24, — Northern Railway & Oshu Kaido,

romogawa is crossed, a river cele- brated as the scene of the battle that ended Yoshitsune's career. Near

Miziisawa is the site of the ancient fortress (Chinjufu) of the Governors-Greneral of Oshu, a name which in early times included all N.E. Japan.

KiirosaiW2ijiri (Inn by Nomura Nisuke). Small steamers some- times ascend the Kitakami-gawa as far as this place. Here, too, the most picturesque road to Akita diverges 1. over the mountains (see p. 203).

' Haiiamaki (Inn by Takase Toku- taro). The railway station is about 1 m. from the town. For the road from this place to Kamaishi on the E. coast, see p. 215. About 9 m. from Hanamaki up the ^ valley of the^^Toyosawa, lie the hot- springs of Osawa, where the ac- commodation is better than at any of the other springs in the pre- fecture. The water is strongly impregnated with alum. Jinriki- shas are available all the way. The most prominent mountains seen on the E. are Rokka-uchi- yama and Sochiho-san, locally known as Hayachine-yama ; on the W., Nansho-zan and Ganju-san, also called Iwate-yama.

lliziime (Inn by Uchikawa). The railway keeps on the r. bank of the Kitakami-gawa, and crosses the river Shizuku-ishi at its junction with the Kitakami before entering

Morioka (Inns, * Mutsu-kwan, European food; Seifii-kwan, at the station; *Murata-ya, Naruse), the capital of the prefecture of Iwate, and formerly the castle-town of the Daimyo of Nambu. The town is celebrated for its kettles, spun-silk goods, fruit, and vegetables. _ The kettles differ from those of Osaka and Kyoto in being a rusty red colour, and in the annealing to which they are subjected. The ore from which they are made comes

from near the E. coast, and has & high reputation. American apples are now extensively grown ; also quinces, cabbages, and turnips. Game is abundant in winter. Among the other productions of Morioka, are a confection made of the root of the dog-tooth violet (Erythronium) called kataJcuri, and syda-no-yuki (contracted from. Sumida-no-yuki), somewhat resem- bling Iceland moss paste.

About 1 H from the town, a grove of cryptomerias is seen on a bluff overhang- inir the river. Here it was that the rebel Alje-no-Sadatd had his castle, which, after a stubborn resistance, was overthrown by Minamoto Yoshiie, the doughty war- rior also known to fame as Hachiman Taro, that is, the flrst-bom of the God of War. Long afterwards — so the story goes— when Nambu wished to l)uild his castle on the same spot, the Shosrun's Government, remembering the difficulty formerly experienced in over- coming the rebel Abe, refused to grant permission, so that the fortress was erected on the hill which ^ftei'ward3 became the centre of Morioka.

Under the hiUs to the E. of the town stand a number of temples. In the garden of one of these, called Ryukokuji, is seen a peculiar rush called the kataha no yoshi, the leaves of which grow on only one side of the stem. Tradition avers that this is owing to Toshitsune having stripped off half the leaves with a stroke of his sword.

[Ganju-san, also called Iwate-san (6,800 ft.), can be ascended from Morioka by starting early in a jinrikisha with two men, and going to DaishaJcu, a hamlet on the lower slopes of the mountain, where are good sulphur baths, the water for which is brought down in pipes from Amihari, higher up the valley. The jinrikisha should be left at the hamlet for the return joiumey. Dai- shaku, which is about 7 ri from Morioka, can be reached in time for lunch, and the after- noon pleasantly employed in a dimb to the source of the

Ascent of Ganjxt-san,

199

hot-springs at Amihari, up a ^ood path of less than 2 m. The baths ai*e mere open tanks, though there are huts where some of the country people put up when they come for the cure. From here a short but steep climb takes one to the dividing ridge be- tween the i)refectures of Iwate and Akita, whence a good view may be obtained of the mountains towards Akita.

It is a hard day's climb from Daishaku to the top and back, but the traveller has two nights'rest, and the hot sulphur baths to refresh his weary limbs.

The ascent of the mountain is easy for the first few miles •over the lower part ; but grad- ually it begins to zigzag up through and over the roots of trees. Sometimes it follows the ridge of a spur, and then de- scends to cross a valley, in one place coming out on a solfatara, where the hot water boils up and mingles with a cold stream running down from the moun- tain. The structure of the mountain may be compared to three joints of a telescope, there being a lower thick cone, then a rim or crater, then a «econ4 cone followed by a second rim OV crater, and finally a third cone. On ren<ih- ing the outside of the first •crater, a slight detour brings one to a ridge separating two httle lakes which can be seen from the top. From this spot there is another steep climb to the rim of the second crater, on the floor of which stands a hut intended to ticcommo- <late pilgrims. The last part of the ascent from here is up a slope of fine lapilli, inclined at an angle of 27°. The top «of the mountain is really the knife-like edge of another •crater, half a mile in diame-

ter, in whose centre rises a small cone which is breached on its S.E. side. Strewn along the edge, lie numerous offerings to the mountain god, which have been brought up by pilgrims — principally pieces of sheet-iron, shaped like spear-heads, vary- ing in length from 2 or 3 in. to 2 or 3 ft. The interior of the cone may be entered by climbing over the breach. Ganju-san, from its regular logarithmic curves, is a beauti- ful object to all those travel- ling up or down the valley of the Kitakami-gawa.

On returning, it is better to take the direct road towards the vill. of Shizuku-ishi, cross- ing the ridge of the outside crater just behind the pilgrims* hut, and descending a long^ rocky spur. This is an easier way, as there is no under- growth to force one's way through ; but on reaching the foot of the mountain, it is a long trudge across the grassy l)lain before one begins to as- cend the zigzag path to the inn at Daishaku.

The return from Daishaku can be varied by crossings the Shizuku-ishi river at the ferry, and going to the hot- springs of Tsunagi, where the baths are pleasant though of no particular medicinal value. By following a short way further up the valley, the baths of Oshuku (Uguisu- no-yado) are reached. From here the road to Morioka, 13 m., is along the r. bank of the Shizuku-ishi river, and enters the city by the Meiji-bashi. Those pressed for time can make the ascent most quickly from Yanagizawa-mura about 4 ri from Morioka, starting on horses in the afternoon. The accommodation at the little inn is miserable ; but by enga-

200

Boute 24, — Northern ruiilivay cd Oshii Kaiild.

ging guides and using torches, the ascent can be begun about midnight and the top reached at daylight, distance only 2 ri 23 cho. To make up for the comparative shortness of the distance, the climb is so steep in some places that chains are fastened in the rocks to help the pilgrims.]

The Northern Eailway is about to be completed to Aomori. At present, from Morioka onwards, travellers jnust follow the old high TOtid the Oshu Kaido, which partly adjoins the railway track, and is practicable for jinrikishas. Omni- buses also ply over a portion of it, — on wheels during the summer, and on runners during the long season of snow. They ply regularly between Morioka and Numakanai, irregularly between Niimakunai and San-no-he, fairly regularly be- tween San-no-he and Noheji, and regularly from the latter place to Aomori. Each cho in the distances along the road in the prefectures of Iwate and Miyagi is regularly marked, — a great convenience to those acquainted with the Japanese numerals. The following is the

Itinerai'y,

MOEIOKA to :— Bi. Cho. M,

Shibutami 4 27 111

Numakunai 3 32 9^

Kotsunagi 4 34 12

Ichi-no-he 3 4 7-1

Pukuoka 1 31 4^

Kindaichi 13 2^

San-no-he 3 — 7i

Asamizu 3 18 8a

Oo-no-he 1 20 3|

Dempoji 1 28 U

Pujishima.'. 33 2^

Sambongi 17 3

Shichi-no-he 2 28 6|

Noheji 5 8 12|

Kominato 4 9 IO2

Nonai 4 20 Hi

AOMOEI 2 3 5

Total 50 17 1231^

Leaving the suburbs of Morioka^ the road crosses the Kitakami-gawa and follows up the r. bank of the river. About 1 m. out of the town,, it enters a grove which extends for over 2 m. In the autumn^ the Morioka people picnic here, to- gather a delicious species of mush- room called hatsu-take.

After passing the junction of tlie^ road to Hirosaki at a distance of 3 ri 6 cho from Morioka, the main road to Aomori turns to the r., still ascending, but within a mil© crosses the crest and gradually descends towards Shibutami, con- tinuing around the base of Ganju- san. The best view of the mount-ain is obtained from near_

Shibutami ( Inn, Omura-ya ), where the shape appears perfectly symmetrical. The picturesque cone of Hiine-ga-take at the end of the range of hills enclosing Morioka- on the r., which has been con- spicuous for so many miles, rise& from behind Shibutami. The val- ley of the Kitakami-gawa becomes more confined; and the stream, which up to Morioka was navigable- for boats of 50 kuJcu burthen, is now obstructed by rocks and. boulders. Its principal soiu'ce is crossed just before reaching

Niimnkiiiini (Inn by Kojima To- mi). This is the last viU. in tlie valley. The terraces marking the ancient position of the river-bed deserve notice. After passing the turning on the r. which leads to Hachi-no-he, the road lies be- tween wooded hills, and beyond th& temple of Kwannon ascends the water-shed, about 2,000 ft. above the sea. At the foot of a large cryptomeria near this temple, is a clear crystal spring which is ac- cepted as the source of the iTita- kami-gawa. At the top is the boundary between the provinces of Eikuchii and Bikuoku. The road now lies over a grassy tract, and soon after passing the hamlet of Nakayama, strikes the head of

North Section of the Oshu Kaido.

201

a deep valley and descends to Ketsunagi (Inn by Sakuyama). Throuf^h this valley flows the Itfabechi-gawa, which after a course of tes m. discharges itself into the sea at Hachi-no-he. This river will be crossed twelve times by the railway on its way to Hachi-no-he. Lacquer-trees line the roadside, and everywhere dot the fields.

I<*lli-no-lie (Inn by Nishimura) lie* between steep woodedhills. The road now crosses to the r. bank of the river, and rises to a consider- able height to avoid a bend in the valley. The scenery all the way to Kindaichi is very picturesque. At Fuhuoka (Inn by Murai), the valley widens out. The road partly follows it, but in two places ascends the mountains on the 1. bank to a <ionsiderable elevation, descending at the back of

San-llO-lie (Juris by Tago, Asai) to a tributary stream flowing down ■a long valley from the W. A high hill covered with cryptomerias lies between this and the main river. On the r. bank of the latter rises the peak of Nakui-dake, visi- ble from a long distance N. The •ascent of this conspicuous hill is recommended. It can be very easily climbed, and it offers a remarkable view of the sui'round- ing country and of the main chain, with Herai-dake, Akakura, etc. Shortly after leaving San-no-he, the road to Hachi-no-he branches off to the r., and the main road, ascend- ing the mountains by a steep Jicchvity, runs along an elevated wooded ridge. This commands «n extensive view, embracing the mountains near Aomori, the whole E. pai-t of Aomori Bay, Osore-zan on its N. side, and the narrow isthmus between the Bay and the Pacific Ocean. Asamizu (Inn by Tanaka) lies in a deep valley. More ridges are crossed before reaching Uo-iio-he (Inns by Xamioka, Yuwatari), a considerable place for this part of the country. From

Fujishima, a gradjially rising plain extends to

S«aiiiborigi {Inns by Yasuno, Wa- jima), and between the latter place and Noheji on Aomori Bay the road traverses large stretches of moorland and open rolling country, extending to the 1. for 6 or 7 miles, and on the r. as far as the eye can. reach. In bad weather the track is deep in mire, the soil consisting" of black mould, under which are hiyers of clay and volcanic pumice, which in some places come to the surface. At

Shichi-no-he (Lms, Minatobe, Urushi-do), on a stream of the same name, the plain is again reached, and after 3 m. the road crosses the Nakagawa and the Tsubo-kawa.

Nolioji, often written Nobeehi (Inns, lida-ya, Yasuda), is a port conveniently situated at the S.E. corner of Aomori Bay.

[A coast road runs due N. from Noheji to the hatchet-shaped peninsula of Yakeyama, where the summit of Eamafuse-zan affords a delightful view, and the solfatara at the little lake on Osore-zan offers much in- terest. The accommodation is everywhere poor, except at Kawa-uchi, Sai, and Obeta.]

Tliough the distance from Noheji to Aomori is but 15 m. as the crow flies, the road is forced by a mass of mountains to make a con- siderable detour, which increases the distance to 11 ri, or nearly 27 miles. Leaving Noheji, it foMows the coast through insignificant fishing villages for a few miles to a cove called Shiranai, then strikes inland through Koniinato (Inn by Terajima), crosses over to the shore of Aomori Bay proper, and continuing past the hot springs of Asamv^hi (Inn by Sugawawa), and along the rocky and picturesque coast to Nonai, enters the plain in which lies Aomori.

202

Iloiite 25, — Sendai to Yamayata d' Yonezaiia,

Aomori {Inns by *Nakajima Masakichi, Wajima Heizo), capital -of the prefecture of the same name, is situated at the head of Aomori Bay and at the mouth of the small river Arakawa, which drains an extensive plain shut in by high liills. Its straight, wide streets give it an aspect unusual in Japan, and the shops are large and well- supplied. Quantities of salmon are caught in the bay ; and besides dried salmon and sharks' fins, furs from Yezo and lacquer are seen in abundance in the shops. The lac- quer is of a peculiar variegated kind, called Kavd-nuri, Tsugai'u nuri, or Baka-nuH. A considerable trade passes through Aomori, as it is the link connecting Hakodate with the province of Mutsu and the district of Nambu in Eikuchu. It is also the chief outlet of the large migration of country people who annually cross over to Yezo in the spring for the fisheries on the coast of that island, returning in the autumn to their homes on the mainland.

There is constant steam com- munication between Aomori and Hakodate, 70 m. distant, the stealhers always sailing at night.

KOUTE 25.

From Sendai to Yamagata and yonezawa.

Itineranj.

SEIJDAI to ;— Ri. Cho. M.

Ayako 3 — 7i

Sakunami 4 — 9f

Sekiyama 5 34 14^

Tendo 3 26 9

YAMAGATA 3 8 7 J

Kaminoyama 3 JL8 Sh

Nakayama 1 33 4f

Akayu 2 24 6^

YONEZAWA 4 4 10

Total 32 3~7Hi

This route is two easy days" journey by jinrikisha, staying the first night at Yamagata. Sendai and Yamagata are also connected by a more direct but rougher road over the Futakuchi-toge.

Saknnaiui {Inn by Iwamatsu)^ situated in a deep valley with pre- cipitous sides, is noted for its hot- springs. The main road from Akita^ to Yamagata is joined at the town of

Tendd,* where it emerges on to a plain which narrows towards Yama- gata. The views hereabouts are very pleasing. The most striking ob- ject in the landscape is the summit of Gwassan, which rises behind picturesque lesser ranges, and whose slopes continue, even during the hottest part of the year, to be= covered witli large patches of snow.

Yainagata {Inn, Goto; foreign restt.] Shizan-ro), capital of the pre- fecture of the same name, and foiTuerly the castle-town of Mi- zuno Iziuni-no-Kami, is well-situ- ated on a slight eminence, and possesses broad and clean streets with good shops. Leaving the highly cultivated plain of Yama- gata, we enter some low hills, on the slope of one of which stands

Kaiiiinoyniiia {Inn, Kame-ya). This town contains several good inns, many of which are built high up the slope of the hill. It alsa possesses hot mineral baths, which,, on account of their efficacy in rliou^ matism, attract visitors from con- siderable distances. Kaminoyama is noted as being one of the driest places in Japan, and may be re- conunended as a health resorts There are plenty of walks in the- neighbourhood, and picturesque ex- cursions can be made in many directions.

Akayu (I>i7i by Ishioka Yozo) is another place noted for its hot sul- phur springs ; but the inns are apt to be filled with patients, and to be too noisj* for the taste of foreign

Boute 26. — From Tokyo to Akita.

203

travellers. After crossing the Matsukawa, and passing the vill. of Nukanome, we reach Yonezawa (see p. 194).

ROUTE 26.

Ebom Tokyo to Akita on the Nobth-West Coast.

The traveller bound for Akita has a choice between several routes, viz.

1. By the regular tri- weekly steamers of the Nippon Yuseu Ewaisha from Yokohama to Hako- date, in 2^ days, and thence to Tsuchizaki, the port of Akita, by smaller steamers, which run at intervals of from 4 to 10 days, and occupy 18 hrs. in making the pass- age. The distance from Tsuchi- KsJd to Akita is 1^ ri.

2. Kailway from Tokyo (Ueno) to Kurosawa jiri on the Northern hne in 17 hrs.; thence by the following itinerary, which is the most picturesque land route.

Itinerary.

KUROSAWAJIEI to :—

Bi, ChO. M.

Shitamura 3 18 8.i

Snginahata 8 31 9^

Kawajiri 2 10 51

Nonojuku 1 30 4^

Yokote 5 30 14^

AKITA (by itine- rary given in No.

3 in next column) 18 34 46^

Total 36 9 88^

For Kurosawajiri see p. 198. The first part of the journey as far as Nonojuku is rough and mountainous.

3. Railway from Tokyo (Ueno) to Sendai, in 12 hrs. Thence by road, the following being the

Itineii'ary.

SENDAI to — Ri. Chd M. '

Ayako 3 — 7i

Sakunami 4 — 9|

Sekiyama 5 34 14a

Tateoka 3 18 8^

Obanazawa 3 20 8$

Funagata 3 19 Si

Shinjo 2 12 5:^

Kanayama 3 32 9i

Nozoki 4 11 lOA

Innai 3 — 71

Yuzawa 4 9 10^

Yokote 4 30 llf

Kakumagawa ... 3 18 84

Omagari 1 25 4^

Hanatate 22 l<i

Jinguji 1 '2 2a

Kita Maruoka . . . 27 If

Kariwano 1 25 4}

Yodogawa 2 11 5|

Wada 3 12 Sk

AKITA 4 — 9t

Total 65 3 158^

The road is practicable for jin- rikishas throughout. As far as Sekiyama, this route coincides with the first part of Route 25.

At Tatookn (Inn, Ise-ya), the main road from Yamagata to Akita is joined. Not far fl*om Tateoka is Yamadera, with its old temples and fine landscapes.

Shiujo (Inn by Ito Yunosuke), a quiet place, has a large trade in rice, silk, and hemp, but shows little outward evidence of prospe- rity. The style of buildings in this district and in those further N. differs entirely from that met with in central and southern Japan.

204

Route 27 » — Sendai to Tstim-ga-oha d Aldta,

Nearly all the houses are great oblong barns turned end- wise to the- road, and are built with heavy beams and walls of lath and brown mud mixed with chopped straw. Rain-doors {ania-do), with a few paper windows at the top, replace the ordinary sliding screens ; and as there are no ceil- ings to the rooms, the interior pre- sents a very uninviting appearance. Beyond Shinjo the road crosses a steap ridge into a singular basin, partly surrounded loy thickly wooded pyramidal hills, at* the foot of which lies the vill. of Kaiia- yania. The next stage of the journey is through wild and pic- turesque scenery. Leaving the hamlet of Nozok<, the road descends along the head- waters of the Omo- no-gawa. The approach to

Iiinai, as well as the road on to Tuzawa, is* through an avenue of cryptonlerias. The silver mines at Innai were once the most pro- ductive in Japan.

Yokote (Inn, Kosaka), is a dirty town with a large trade in cottons.

Oinagr>iri> (Inn, Takenouchi). At

Jinguji (Inn, Hoso-ya), boats may be taken down the Omono- gawa to Akita. The current is swift, though there are no rapids ; and the journey of 42 m. may be comfortably accomplished in 9 hrs.

Akita (Inn, Kobayashi) is the capital of the prefecture of the same name. This town, also called Kubota., was formerly the seat ot a Daimyo named Satake. A con- siderable commerce is carried on here^ and rice is exported in large quantities to the northern parts of the Main Island and to Hakodate. The manufactures are striped tsumugi, or spun-silk cloth, and white chijimi.

4. A road from Morioka (19 hrs. by rail from Tokyo) to Akita, joins that given in No. 3 near Omagari. The whole distance from Morioka to Akita is 35 ri 8 cho, the itinerary

as far as Omagari being as fol- lows :—

MORIOKA to :— Ri. Cho. M.

Shizuku-ishi 4 10 lOi

Hashiba 2 21 6^

To the border of

the Prefecture... 2 12 5|

Obonai 2 23 6^

Kakunotate... 5 11 13

OMAGARI ......... 4 35 12i

Total 22 4 54

EOUTE 27.

From Sendai to Tsubu-ga-otca, Sakata, Hon jo, and Akita. Ascent op Hagubo-ban, Gtvas-

8AN, AND ChOKAI-ZAN.

Itinerary.

SENDAI to:— Ri, Cho. M.

Shinjo 25 31 63

Moto-Aikai 2 10 6l

Furukuchi 2 8 6i

Kiyokawa .-... 3 12 S^

Karigawa 1 12 3^

Fujishima 1 34 4f

TSURU-GA-OKA 2 8 6i

Back to Fujishima 2 8 5^^

Niibori 2 26 6f

SAKATA 1 33 4^

Fukura 5 6 12^

Shiokoshi 5 14 13^

Hirazawa 2 33 7

HONJO 3 7 7f

Nakamura 6 — 14j

Araya 4 25 Hi

AKITA 1 10 3

Total 74 25 180|^

This route has been compiled for those travellers whose chief object is mountain climbing, and who, after completing their tour, will be able to take steamer for Hakodate either at Sakata or at Akita.

The road is the same as Section 3 of Route 26 as far as Shinjo, where

Ascent of Haguro^ Gucassan d Chokai—zan,

205

it diverges to the 1. to reach

Moto-Aikai. Soon after passing . this vill., it arrives at a ferry over the Mogami-gawa, one of the most important rivers of N. Japan, and the scenery becomes highly picturesque. The river, tliough" flowing between high hills, covered partly with grass, partly with splendid yews and cryptomerias, is •quite placid, and- is studded with primitive boats having brown mats for sails. Descending the pleasant- ly cultivated valley, we rea<;h KaH- gawa, where the main road to Sakata joins in to the r.

Tsiirii-gii-okai or Shonai (Inn by

Tabayashi Gorobei) was formerly

the castle-town of a Daimyo called

Sakai Saemon-no-jo. The retainers

of this personage are remembered

for the sturdy resistance which

they offered in 1868 to the Mikado's

troops, and for their rough, un-

eultivated manners. There are

several remarkable waterfalls in

the neighbourhood of Tsuru-ga-oka,

viz. Shiraiio no taki near Kiyokawa,

whose height is estimated by the

Japanese at 74 ft. and its breadth

at 24 ft.; "No-no-tahiy near the foot

of Maya-san, about 100 ft. high ;

and Hitoguhuri in the same vicinity.

These last two waterfalls, tumbling

over different sides of the lame

steep ridge, are visible at the same

time, and with some smaller falls

about 20 ft. in height, make a

charming picture.

[Hagnro-san and Gwassan may

be conveniently vibited from Tsuru-ga-oka.' Gwassan, the higher of the two, is only 6,200 ft. above the level of the sea ; and it is therefore not so mueh on account of their height as of their reputation for sanctity, that they are known throughout the length and breadth of the land, and yearly attract crowds of pilgi'ims.

One of the most curious ihin^ connected with these mountains is the mythical existence of a third,

called Ttufotio-tan, the three together being collectively known as San^ art/ «, that is, 'the three mountains.* Yudono-san is marked on almost all Japanese maps, posts point the way to it, pious ])ilgrims plan the ascent of it, mention of it Las even crept in to some of the European guide-books to Japan, and, — Mrs. Harris-like, no ttuck inot<ufuiu exitit! This, on the authority of Dr. K. Naumann, long attached to the Imperial Japanese Survey Department, and probably Ijetter acquainted with the byways of Japan than any other man living.

It is necessary, in order to avoid the discomfort of spend- ing two nights on the moun- tains, to start at a very early- hour. Haguro-san is visited first, 4 ri. 'I'hence to the sum- mit of Gwassan is 9 ri ; but ac- commodation for the night can be obtained at any of the three hamlets situated on its slope. The traveller is advised to choose the highest of the three, and next day, to return to Tsuru-ga-oka via Tamugi and Oami, in the neighbourhood of which latter vilL may be seen the primitive method of cross- ing an otherwise impassable ra- vine by Kago-watashi, that is, a basket slung to ropes. Instead of returning to Tsuru-ga-oka, it is also possible to reach Yama- gata by descending from the top of Gwassan to the hamlet of Iwanezawa, a walk of 6 rt, where, at a distance of li ri, the road from Tsuru-ga-oka to Yamagata viA the Roku-ju-ri- goe is met.]

Leaving Tsuru-ga-oka, the road crosses the Mogami-gawa close to its mouth before reaching

Siikata {Inn, Miura-ya), a port of call for steamers. The principal street presents a peculiar appear- ance, with its houses standing in separate enclosures.

[From Fukura (fair accommo- dation), the ascent of Chokai- zan, sometimes also called Tori-no-umi-yama, may best be

ao6

Emite 27. — Sendai to Tmni-ga-oJca d' Akita.

made. A trip to this magni- ficent mountain is strongly recommended. Scarcely any other peak in Japan, Yari-ga- take perhaps excepted, affords 80 extensive a view. Sunrise la the best time for the view, for which reason the traveller should arrange so as to spend the night on the top. It is, however, possible to make the ascent and to descend again to Fukura in one long day. The distance to the summit, which is considered to be 9 W, is divided into three equal stages, of which the first 3 ri may be performed on horseback. The second takes one to the shed at Kawara-ishi, 4,800 ft. above the sea, where water and poor native food can be obtained, and where even in summer patches of snow may be seen. The third stage leads past the rim of an old crater, and over snow and volcanic scroriae to the present peak. Near the top are some sheds for pilgrims, and a small temple little better than a hut. ITie actual summit is 800 ft. above this point, and is reached by clambering over a wilderness of broken rocks and stones, the result of some ancient eruption.

The first recorded eniption took place in A.D. 801, and the last about 30 years apro. Traces of its action may still l)c seen in the solfatara on the W. side of the mountain, but the upheaval was an insi^iificant one, and the volcanic force of Chokai-zan is evidently becoming extinct.

From the summit the eye wanders over the entire range of mountains dividing Ugo from Rikuchu, and over those of Nambu beyond. Looking •W. is the sea, with to the r. the long headland of Oji- ka. Opposite lies Hishima, and to the 1. Awajima and Sado. To the S. is the plain

of the lower Mogami-gawa, bounded by the mountains of Uzen and Echigo, with the long slope of Gwassan in the centre. Most curious of all, as the first rays of light break through the darkness, is the conical shadow of Ohokai-zan itself, projected on to the sea, and rapidly diminishing in size as the sun ascends.] '

The road now lies along the coast at the foot of Chokai-zan and Inamura-dake, as far as Shiohoshi, on the top of high cliffs over- hanging the sea. The view of Cho- kai-zan varies constantly. From Shiokoshi to Hirazawa the coast is much broken up by small bays, whose entrances are guarded by rocky cliffs, and where small fishingr- villages line the shore.

Honjo {Inn^ Komatsu-ya), for- merly the residence of a DaimyG named Eokugo, stands on the banks of the Koyoshi-gawa, at whose mouth is the small port of Furu- yuki. From this point onwards, as far as Akita, the coast extends in one long unbroken dreary line of sandy shore. The manufacture of salt from sea- water by a rough method is carried on here to a con- siderable extent, and in the month of May large quantities of hata- hata, a fish resembling the sardine, are caught with the seine. An inferior kind of lamp-oil is extracted from these fish, and the refuse is used as manure. At

A rayn , the Omono-gawa is crossed to the prefectural town of

Akitai (see p. 204).

Eoute 28. — From yiujaUi to Tsuni-r/a-Qha.

207

EOUTE 28.

TPvxyH. NlIGATA TO TSUBTJ-QA-OKA.

[Valley of the Miomote-gawa.J

Itinerarij.

in:iGATA to :— Bi. Cho. M.

Nuttari 26 If

UchiShimami.... 3 21 8|

SHIBATA 3 8 7|

Mikkaichi 1 6 2|

Ifakajo 3 6 7$

Kurokawa 1 4 2if

Hirabayashi 2 15 6

MURAKAMI 2 34 7i

8arusawa 2 13 6|

Shionomachi 1 20 31

Budo 1 32 4k

Nakamura 2 12 5$

Arakawa 18 1^

Ogiini 4 22 lU

Tagawa-yu 5 30 14|

TSJRU-GA-OKA 1 18 3|

Total 38 33 95

This route is mostly impracti- c».ble for jinrikishas. The road is doll as far as Kurokawa, where the scenery becomes more interest- ing, and a good view of the moan- tain ranges ahead begins to dis- close itself. The most conspicuous emmnits are : in front, Budo-yama, so called from the wild grapes to be found growing on its sides ; and to the r. in the distance, the highest of the three peaks of Washi-ga su, or the 'Eagle's Eyrie.' The road enters the lower hills on nearing the former castle-town of

* Marakdinl (fair accommodation), a clean and good-sized place. After crossing the Miomote-gawa, the most delightful scenery on this route is reached. Two new sum- mits to the r., — Eboshi-yama and the Echigo Fuji, a double-crested mountain one of whose peaks as- sumes in miniature the exact form of its great namesake, and others most various in size and contour, come in sight. Clusters of pines and cryptomerias, and the never- ending green of a rich cidtivation

along the lower level, an(J of the grassy and leafy heights, contri- bute to the charm of the landscape. [Dr. Navunann highly recom- mends the picturesque upper course of the Mi(yinote-gaiva, especially the gorge between the villages of Miomote and Iwakuzure, Miomote itself lying at the foot of the moun- tains like a little paradise. He includes in his praise the whole of the wild district extending northward to the Mogami-gawa, and recom- mends the following tour to mountaineers : — From Sendai to Ito-ga-take, Gwassan, Cho- kai-zan, Tazawa, Odori, Mio- mote, Iwakuziu'e, Washi-ga-su (4,140 ft.), Arasawa, Gomizawa, Asahi-dake (6,530 ft.), Oguni, Tamagawa, lide-san (7,130 ft.), Ichinoto, Niigata. Portions of this tour are described in Eoute 27.]

From Nakaiiiiirn, it is a per- petual succession of steep ascents. The i^rincipal sight on the way is Urushi-yania no Iwaya, a striking mass ot grey rock, which towers romantically above a purling brook from amidst a glade of giant cryp- tomerias, and is half-shrouded in live oaks and creepers that take root in almost inaccessible nooks and crannies.

The tradition is that Yoshiie, commonly known as Hachiman Taro, or the ' tirst- boni of the God of War,' built him in this spot a r(X)f of arrows as a shelter from the weather, when he had defeated his foes in this mountain fastness. Hence the name (or nither perhaps the name may have g^iven rise to the story) of Yabuki Dai- myojin, lit. the ' God of the Arrow-i-oofinjf,' under which this wan*ior is worshii)ped as the local JShinto deity.

Tiigawa-yn, a village so called I from its hot-sj^rings, is situated at the base of the Dainichi-toge. It contains several good tea-houses witli pleasant bathing accommoda- tion. Jinrikishas can be taken from this place across the plain to Tsiirii-ga-oka (see p. 205).

208

llotite 29* — From Akita to Aomon,

EOUTE 29.

From Akita to Aomori. funakawa. ascent of iwaki-san.

Itinerary,

AKITA to:— Ri. Cho. M.

Tsuchizaki 1 18 3|

Okubo 3 30 H

Hitoichi 2 18 6

Kado 3 — 7i

Movioka 1 IS 3f

Noshiro 4 3 10

Tsurugata 3 — 7i:

Niageba 3 29 9^-

Kotsunagi ...» 21 1^

Tfiiizureko 3 6 7|

ODATE 4 21 Hi

Shirazawa 2 21 6i

Ikari-ga-seki 4 28 llf

Ishikawa 3 19 s]

HIROSAKI 2 14 5f

Namioka 4 26 Hi

Shinjo 4 14 10|

AOMORI 1 25 4i

Total 55 23 135f

Descending the r. bank of the river to Minato, the road follows the coast, and at Okubo crosses to the shore of a large lagoon, called Hachird-gata, whose greatest length from N. to S. is 17 ni., its breadth being about 7i ni. The entrance on the S.W., by which it communi- cates with the sea, is only about 150 yds. wide.

[On the W. of the bay formed by the headland on tjie opposite side of the lagoon, lies the port of Funakawa (Inn by Moroi), near which are some remark- able rocks rising to 60 ft. in height. In one place they form a natural bridge in the sea. Funakawa is 10 ri 28 chb distant by road from Akita, passing through Futiakoshif at the mouth of the lagoon, 6 ri 21 cho from Akita. Jinrikish'as are available.]

After iQavipg the lagoon ofc Kado, the road strikes across a rich plain extending from the mountains to the sea-shore on the 1. and northwards to

Noshiro {Inn by Kanazawa Kai- mon); thence "to Tsurugata on the Nqshiro-gawa. From Tsurugata. to

0<lat<', the road ascends the val- ley of the Noahiro-gawa, keeping always on the r. bank. At Odate quantities of coarse lacquered ware are manufactured. Travellers com- ing from the opposite direction can. descend by boat from Odate to Tsurugata. From Odate the road. turns again to the N., and crosses a range of hills. The slopes on the r. are grassy and bare of trees, while those to the 1. are covered with a dense forest. Numbers of horses are bred in this neighbour- hood.

Hirosaki (Inns by Ishiba, Nagai) was formerly the castle-town of a Daimyo surnamed Tsugaru, after the district which formed his ter- ritory. The castle was destroyed some years ago, and its site is now occupied by bai'racks.

[On the W. of the town rises l^akl-san, or the Tsugaru Fuji^ so called on account of its simi- larity in form to the famous mountain of that name. One of the best views of this peak is enjoyed by the traveller as he approaches Hirosaki from the S., when the mountain makes its appearance in a N.W. direction. Its solitary grandeur equals, if it does not surpass, that of the loftier cone after which it is named. The ascent is made from Hyaku-sawa, about 3 ri from Hirosaki, at the S. foot of the mountain, where there is a temple, whose incumbent will furnish guides for the ascent. The season at which pilgrims make the ascent is strictly Umit- td i but travellers will find no

Eoute 30, — Matsmlilma and Kinhim-zan,

20^

difficolty in obtaining the ne- cessary permission at any time, by malang a small present of money. At a height of 4, 1 00 ft. lies an oval crater, about 100 yds. wide, at the bottom of which is a small pond. To reach the highest peak of all, about 4,650 ft. high, two steep ascents have to be made over boulders and loose gravel. Scattered over the summit lie numerous huge andesite boulders. The top is extremely steep, a fact ap- parently due in large measure to the washing away of ejecta- menta, leaving only the solid rock. Notwithstanding the great amount of degradation that has taken place upon the upper part of this mountain, its general form and the exis- tence of beds of pumice indicate that it has been in a state of eruption during periods which, from a geological point of view, are quite recent.

The ascent and descent can be easily accomplished in 5 a hours.]

From Hirosaki the road lies across a plain cultivated with rice, beyond which it ascends the range of hills known as Tsugaru-zAkci. The top of this range commands a mag- nificent view of the surrounding country. To the N. and N.E. lies the bay of Aomori looking like a a huge lake ; on the E. rise the mountains of the central chain that forms tha backbone of the Main Island ; to the N. W. are the penin- sula of Mimmaya and the valley of the Iwaki-gawa; on the S.W., Iwa- ki-san and the town of Hirosaki ; and on the S., the mountains that divide Tsugaru from Akita. De- scending a narrow valley, the road shortly issues on to the coast, and reaches

Aomori (see p. 202).

Shiogama coast

KOUTE 80.

Matsushima and Kinkwa-zan.

the matsushima . archipelago, nobiru. i8hin0maki.

By train from Sendai on the^ Northern Eailway to Shiogama in i hr.

The archipelago of pine-clad islets collectively bearing the name of Matsushima, has been famed for its beauty ever since northern Japan was conquered from the Aino aborigines in the 8th cen- tury, and is one of the San-kei, or * Three Most Beautiful Scenes' of Japan, the other two being Miyajima and Ama-no-hashidate. A lengthened form of the name,. Shiogama-no-Matsushima, i.e. * The Pine Islands of Shiogama,' is often made use of being the town on the where the curious landscape be- gins. The favourite way of viewing- the scene is to row or sail across to the hamlet which has borrowed the name of Matsushima, un- less it be desired also to visit Ishinomaki and Kinkwa-zan, in which case a very good view is- afforded from the steamer's deck. These steamers ply daily between Shiogama and Ishinomaki, starting- after the arrival of the first train from Sendai. The passage to Ishino- maki occupies about 3 hrs., or not so- long when weather permits of the small river steamers going outside- the4:)ar at Nobiru, instead of taking the lengthier canal route. The larger boats which connect withthe- Nippon Yusen Kwaisha's steamers set Oginohama on their voyages to and from Yokohama and Hakodate,, also pass through the little archipe- lago, and take but 2 hrs. to cover the distance between Shiogama and Oginohama.

ShiogJima (Inns, Asano-ya, Saito^

Ebi-ya, all near the railway station

I and the pier J the old and noted inn

-210

lioute 30» — Matsiishijna and Kinhm-zan,

•on the liill called Shogaro, a for- mer pleasure-house of the Prince of Sendai, is still in existence, but being now-a-days inconveniently situated for train and steamer, is little patronised by travellers).

The Temple, which once belonged to the Shingon sect of Buddhists And was known under the name of Hbrenji, should be visited. It has been transferred to the worship of the Shinto god Shiogama Dainiyo- jin, a son of the creator Izanagi, and the reputed discoverer of the way to obtain salt by evaporating sea- water. The word ahio-gania means Salt-Boiler. In the temple court will be noticed a sundial in- scribed with Roman figures. It bears date 1783, and was presented by Rin Shihei, a writer noted for his zealous advocacy of the defence of the country against foreign inroads which he prophetically foresaw. There is like\yise a hand- some though weather-beaten iron lantern, presented by thQ warrior Izumi Saburo Tadahira in A.D. 1 1 87. But in the temple's present state, the magnificent cryptomerias and other trees, in the midst of whose deep shade it stands, are un- doubtedly the greatest attraction -of the place. Shiogama is noted for its ink-stones. From Shiogama to the hamlet of

Matsiishiina (Inn, Kwangetsu- ro) is a deliji^htful sail amidst the promontories, bays, and ' islets, which stretch along the coast for 18 ri as far as Kinkwa-zan, the most celebrated of the group. There are said to be 88 islands between Shio- gama and Matsushima, and 808 in rail between Shiogama and Kinkwa- «an, of which but very few are inhabited. But 8 and its com- pounds are favourite round numbers with the Japanese, and moreover the smallest rocks are included in the enumeration. Each of them, down to the least, has received a separate name, many of them fan- tastic, as * Buddha's Entry into

Nirvana,' 'Question and Answer Island,' *the Twelve Imperial Con- sorts,' and so on. All the islands are formed of volcanic tuff, into whicli the sea makes rapid inroads.- Doubt- less many of the smaller isles dis- appear in this manner, while their number is maintained by th© gradual breaking up of penin- sulas. In almost every available nook stands one of those thousan<l pine-trees, that have given name and fame to the locality. At the hamlet of Matsushima, the temple of Zuganji, in which are the ances- tral tablets of the Date family, will repay a visit, though its exterior is not promising. In the outer court, in front of a small cave called the Hoshin ga Iwaya, are two large figures of Kwannon cut in slate* stone. There is also a well-carved wooden figure of Date Masamune in a shrine behind the chief altar. The various apartments of the tem- ple are handsomely decorated; and when the gold fpil which is lavishly strewn about was fresh, the effect must have been very fine. Specimens of non-hoUow bamboo are brought for sale at the viU. of Matsushima, but being rare, ar^ somewhat expensive. Two ri dis- tant is

To mi jam a, a hill from which by far the best general view of the archipelago is obtained, and where any traveller who, during the boat journey from Shiogama, may have been disap- pointed with his trip, will allow that the locality possesses great beauty, even should he think that this has been somewhat exaggerateci by Japanese popular report. The whole distance may be accom- plished in jinrikishas, excepting the last 3 chd leading np to the temple of Taikdji, which stands near the top of the ascent. This temple is said to have been. founded by Tamura Maro, a cele- brated general, who was sent against the Ainos during the reign

Xobiru. IshmomakL Kinkwa-zan,

211

of the Emperor Kwammu (circa A.D. 800). From this spot the «ye wanders oV^er 'a maze of islets and promontories, land and sea being mixed in inextricable but lovely confusion. In the direc- tion of Shiogama, the double peak of Shiraishi-no-take may be de- scried in the blue distance, while to the r. rises the range dividing the province of Kikuzen from those of Uzen and Ugo. The highest hill to the 1. is on the island of Funairi- shima, above the port of Ishi- bama, a place of call for merchant steamers. Tomiyama is but a short distance off the main-road to Ishinomaki, and may be taken on the way there either by jinrikisha or carriage, — altogether about 9 ri from Matsushima.

In going by steamer from Shio- gama, • the islets ai'e left behind after an hour's sail, and the canal which connects the shallow waters of the bay with Nobiru is entered.

Nobirii (poor accommodation). The port of this place is little more than a creek with 5 or 6 ft. draught of water, and has a bar across its mouth. Some time ago, the course of the river was altered by making a cutting to a point about 2 m. inland, where there is a wide bend. It was expected that the flow of the river in its new bed would suffice to keep the channel clear, that the old bed of the Naruse-gawa would be available to take off any superfluous amount of water in times of flood, and that the bar at the mouth could be kept down by dredging. But all at- tempts to effect this have been unsuccessful, and the failure has put a stop to various other schemes which had the attention of the Go- vernment for increasing the facili- ties of trade in this region. The canal, 10 m. in length, con- necting Nobiru with the Kitakami- gawa 2 m. above Ishinomaki, is part of the original scheme for making Nobiru the chief port in

the Bay of Sendai, the mouth of the Kitakami-gawa being also ex- posed to the full sweep of the Pacific Ocean and to the violent S.W. gales that drive through the Matsusbima group. A con- sequence of this is that the bar at the mouth of ttie river has like- wise defied all efforts at removal. The eanal is 100 ft. wide, and just deep enough to admit of large cargo boats being towed through. The level is maintained by means of a lock at the river end. The river steamers make use of thia canal, except when the sea is very smooth outside.

Ishiiioiiniki (Inns,* Asano-ya,Ho- shi-ya), noted for its slate-quarries and salmon fisheries, stands at the mouth of tlie river Eitakami, the natural outlet for the . trade of the Nambu district and the N. It is a bustling little sea-port, pos- sessing two banks and a bazaar. A fair amount of ship-building in European style is carried on.

Hyorlyama, a hill at the en- trance of the harbour, commands an extensive sea view, including the Matsushima archipelago, the windings of the river, a range of high mountains inland, and a bird's-eye view of the town.

Steamers ascend the river daily to Kozevji^ which is about 2^ m. from Ichinoseki, a station on the Northern Railway. The journey dovm the river is recommended in- stead, as the boats run through to Shiogama in one day, generally in. from 9 to 10 hrs., but frequently taking much longer, owing to stoppages on the way for cargo (see p. 196).

2. — Kink WA- zan.

The most direct means of reach- ing this noted island is by one of the Nippon Yiisen Kwaisha's tri- weekly steamers to Oginohama (Inns, Kagi-ya,OmoriJ, in the Bay of Sen.- dai, whence small sailing boats can be obtained for Kinkwa^zan, a dis-

212

Eoute 30. — Matsushima and Kinkwa-zan.

tance of nbout 10 ri. But it is more generally approached from the port of Ishinomaki, where boats are also procurable ; or if it is desired to shorten the sea passage, jin- rikishas may taken from Ishi- nomalii to the vill. of Wada-no- ha (Inn by Ishikawa Jubei), which lies 1^ ri further along the coast between Ishinomaki and Ogino- hama. The cost of boats irom Wada-no-ha to Kinkwa-zan was ^1.43 per boatman in 1890. The distance by water is estimated at 1 1 ri, from which again 2 ri may be saved by landing at the hamlet of Aikawa-hama (Inn, Izumi-ya), situated in a small bay to the "W. of the channel separating Kinkwa-zan from the mainland. The latter plan is recommended. There is a road from Wada- no-ha to Oginohama, 4 3 ri; but it is not practicable for jinrikishas, neither is the hilly path of 4 ri more which leads directly to the ferry at Kinkwa-zan. Nothing is gained by starting from Ogino- hama, owing to its situation at the liead of a deeply indented bay, unless the traveller has come by steamer from Yokohama, in which case there is no alternative. The time taken from Wada-no-ha depends upon the state of the wind. An unfavourable wind affords an ad- ditional reason for landing at Ai- kawa-hama. From this hamlet to the ferry called Yamadori, is a walk of a little more than 1 m. over a low pass, the top of which affords an entrancing view of Kinkwa-zan and the entire Matsushima archipelago. A short descent then leads to the ferry-house, where the sonorous notes of a fine bronze bell announce to the boatmen on the sacred island that passengers are waiting to be conveyed across. Boats can- not be kept on this pai*t of the mainland, owing to its exposure to the great seas which roll in from the Pacific, whilst the W. side of Kinkwa-zan opposite to it is

comparatively sheltered. Spacious boats well-manned soon perform the 2 m. passage, and land the visitor at a small breakwater on

Kiiikwai-znii, a short distance below the temples. The tame deer with which the island abounds form pictui*esque objects as they stand on projecting ledges of rock, or graze- quietly by the side of the road that leads up through a wood composed of pine, beech, and chestnut trees. The only buildings on the island are those attached to the temples at which every one*must stay ; but there is ample accommodation for all under the massive roof of the main edifice. Passports should be shown by the foreign visitor to the priests. A liberal contribution,, if he desires to stay overnight, will generally ensure the use of the jo- dan, two large handsome rooms. If it is intended to return the same day a lesser offering will suffice. No- other payments are necessary. Ex- cellent vegetarian food is provided,, and served up by the acolytes. Guides are also furnished to con- duct the visitor around the island^ if a request to that effect is made.

Kinkwa-zan is one of tlie most renowned spots in the north, and has l»een, in spite of its inaccessiljility, the resort of pril^ims- from all parts of .lapan for centuries past. Such was its sanctity in old daj's, and such the inferior position assijijiied tc> woman, that they were not permitted .to ^aze on the island, much less put their feet iipon it. It need scarcely )>o said that tho.se days are past; but some of the old cnstoms connected with the place still linjrer around it. For instance, every pil- gi-iin is conveyed grafh to and from the island, and receives food and shelter from tlie priests until his devotions are over. What contribution he may chotjse to niake^ rests entirely with himself.

The oriffin of the name Kinkita-zaw ('golden-flower mountain') is obscure. Tradition asserts that j?old was found oit the island then known as Michinoku-yama; and the following lines in the MaujfOtthu, an anthologj^ of the Hth centur5', are 8Ui>~ l)o&ed to refer to the discovery :

Sumerogi no Mi yo mkaeu to Aziona nam Michinokn-yamo ni Koga ne hana taku

Kviikwa-zan,

218

which means, " To add lustre to the sov- ereign's augusli reign, golden flowers t>looin in tlie mountains of Michinoku in tbo East." It is more probable, however, tbat it derived its name from the glitter of the quantity of mica found in the soil.

Almost everything required by the temple inmates is raised on the Bpot. Their sake, of which 130 koJcvb WLre produced yearly, is specially noted for the soothing peculiarity that no headache follows even un- limited libations. Every pilgrim is therefore allowed to drink to his heart's content. The chief festi- vals take place in February, March, August, and September. Regard- ing the history of the temples very little can be learnt, all the records and relics connected with them having been lost by fire. Before the transfer of the buildings to the Shinto cult, they were attached to the Shingon sect of Bud- dhists, and dedicated to the service of the goddess Benten. Some of the original smaJler shrines are- still standing; but the Ge-Honzo, or chief temple, was built only some ten years ago, and is dedicated to the god and goddess Elanayama-Hiko-no-Mikoto and Kanayama-Hime-no-Mikoto. Though it otherwise exhibits pure Shinto style, the eaves are adorned with fine carvings. The contribu- tion box in front, made of a block of slate-stone and measuring 9 ft. in length and 3 ft. in breadth, with carvings of deer in relief, as well as the gaku in the oratory, a splendid piece of carving in keyaki wood, which took three years to finish^ are well- worth inspection.

The walk to the summit of Kin- kwan-zan takes about i hr. from the temple, being but some 16 cho. The path leads behind the main buildings, mostly through broken houlders and over the interlaced roots of beech-trees. The objects pointed out on the way are de- tached pieces of rock with fanciful designations. Only one of these reeks to judge from the immense cairn rais^ upon it, seems to have

attracted the attention of pilgrims ; and this is where Kobo Daishi is said to have sat in meditation when he visited the island. . The glorious view from the summit repays the traveller for any diffi- culty he may have had in reaching Kinkwa-zan. Nothing obstructs the vista of the broad and blue Paci- fic ; for the mountain, although densely wooded on all sides, slopes gradually down to the sea. On the W. side, the whole Matsu- shima archipelago is embraced, — even the outermost isles to the N., fringed with a thousand pines and encii'cled by white breakers. Takahashi-yama, a higher peak to the N. W. on the mainland, shuts out the prospect in that direction only.

The small shrine on the top of Kinkwa-zan is dedicated to Wata- zumi-no-Mikoto, the Shinto God of the Sea. Close by it is the site of the lighthouse which stood there until the erection of the present fine granite structure on the E. side of the island. A path from the Sum- mit descends to the lighthouse, and joins what is called the Pilgrim's Circuit, a road round the island which no visitor should fail to follow, as it affords glimpses of wild coast scenery unsurpassed on the N.E. coast, noted though this l)e for its picturesque beauty. The circuit of the island by road is estimated at from 5 to 6 ri, and takes about the same number of hours to accomplish.

The return from Kinkwa-zan is usually made direct by water to Oginohama, Ishinomaki, or — should the wind be favourable — ^to Sliio- gama.

214

Route 31. — Tlie North-East Coast.

ROUTE 31.

The Nobth-East Coast.

from mobioka on the nobthebn bailwat to mitako. down the coast fbom mitako thbough yamada, ozuchi, and kamaishi to mobioka ob hanamaki on

THE NOBTHEBN BAILWAT. FBOM KAMAISHI TO KESEN-NUMA AND ICHINOSEKI.

The North -East Coast, hitherto comparatively inaccessible, can now be approached from several points on the Northern line of Railway. Small steamers also ply at irregn- lar intervals along the coast, which deserves to be better known. Spe- cially to be recommended is the portion embracing the sea-board of the provinces of Eikuchu and Riku- zen, extending southwards from Miyako to Kesen-numa. The road leads over the necks of hilly penin- snlas, disclosing marvellous views of the fiord-like coast and of the mountain ridges that extend down to it. The harbours are the finest in Japan, though unfortunate- ly but little use can be made of them, as a mountain-range shuts out the fertile valley of the Eitaka- mi-gawa which attracts to itself aU the produce of the surrounding c mntry, the scanty coast jpopula- tlon having to subsist on fishing and on the cultivation of small isolated patches of land around the bays. The nature of the country sufficiently indicates the rough- ness of the roads and of the ac- commodation to be expected. North of Miyako^ the mountains recede from the sea and the landscape becomes monotonous.

From Morioka, a road practicable for jinrikishas leads to Miyako on the E. coast. The trip takes 2 days' hard travelling, the only available resting-place being Kavoa- wihi, almost exactly half-way.

Itinerary,

MORIOKA to :— Ri. Chb. M.

Yanagawa 6 10 13

Tashiro 2 14 6f

Kadoma 2 9 5i

Eawa-uchi 4 3 10

Kawai 4 7 lOJr

Haratai 3 6 7f

Hikime 2 26 6i

MIYAKO 3 6 7f

Total 27 8 66i

Soon after leaving Morioka, the road begins a steady ascent for 7 ri, reaching the water-shed after a senes of la-rge elbow-bends. The summit (2,600 ft.) is called Kahuto- kamUsan, since here it was that the helmet of the rebel Sadato was found after his defeat near Ichino- seki by Hachiman Taroin A.D. 1100. From this point down to the sea, the road f oUows the course of the Hegawa-kawa,the grandest scenery coming some 3 ri below the pasa on its E. side. Here for 2 ri the road is cut out, half tunnel- wise, high up along the face of the sheer precipice, which looks down upon the torrent tossing and foaming in its rocky channeL To see this to perfection, an early start from Morioka is necessary. From Ka- wa-uchi to Miyako is an endless succession of picturesque land- scapes, with granite boulders gilt- tering in the broadening river as it sweeps round jutting cliffs and pillared blocks of: basalt. Near Kadoma, a path branches off to the S., leading up the valley of the Oyama-gawa, whence the ascent of Hayoushine^ama (6,660 ft.), the highest mountain in the district £. of the Eitakami-gawa, can be made.

Miyako (Inn by Kikuchi Seibei) has never fully recovered the effects of a disastrous fire which occurred some years ago.

MiyaJco to Kamaishi and Morioka,

215

Coast Koad to Kamaishi.

Itinerary.

MIYAKOto: Ri. did. M.

Yamada 6 — ]4f

Ozuchi 5 12 13

KAMAISHI 3 19 8^

Total 14 31 36i

Horses are procurable at any of these places.

Yamada (Inn by Shirotsuchi Sentaro). Two villages lie on the shores of the magnificent bay that forms the harbour of Yamada. It is surrounded by mountains of above 1,000 ft. in height.

Kamaishi (Inn by Niinunla) is situated at the head of a rocky inlet 2 m. deep. About 10 m. inland is a district abounding in iron ore of good quality, to work which large sums of money were spent by the Grovernment a few years ag6, but with poor results. The ascent of Goyo-san, 3,900 ft. <sui easily be made from Kamaishi.

From Kamaishi, the traveller may rejoin the Northern Railway

at Morioka by the Kamaishi Kaida, of which the following is the

Itinerai'y.

KAMAISHI to :— RL Chd. M.

Koshi 4 31 llf

TONO 6 20 16

Shimo Miyamori ... 5 24 13f

Tassobe 1 19 3^

Ohasama 2 15 6

Otobe 4 33 12

MORIOKA 2 32 7

Total 28 30 70^^

A somewhat more direct road for traveUers going southwards diver- ges at the old castle-town of Tono {Inn by Murakami), and joins the railway at Hanamaki station, Ij- hr. from Morioka.

The journey from Kamaishi to Kesen-numa will occupy two days on foot, with very poor accommoda^ tion at the wayside hamlets. Prom Kesen-numa {Inn by Kumagae Ichibei) a new road via Semmayn, suitable for jinrikishas, is being xjonstructed to Ichinoseki on the Northern "Railway. The distance is approximately 13 H,

\\

rr^

\

SECTION III.

CENTRAL JAPAN.

(kotites 32 — 3"].

Eaute 32, — Tlie Karuizatca-Naoetsii Railway,

219

ROUTE 82.

Thb Kabuizawa-Naoetsu Rail- way AND NlIQATA.

17BI>A TO MATSUMOTO AND SHIMA- SSIMA. TEMPLE OF ZENEOJI. EX- CirBSIONS FROM NAGANO: BUEANDO XAKUSHI, TOGAKUSHI-SAN AND KBN-NO-MINE, IZUNA-SAN. LAKE MTOJIBI AND ASCENT OF MYOKO-ZAN. GOCHI. LAND AND SEA WAYS FBOM KA0BT8U TO NIIQATA. THE ISLAND OF 8ADO.

» i

III

Names

of Stations.

Remarks.

8 m.

m m

241

m

46

S2|

S7t 64

6»i

73| 8U 871 82

KARUIZAWA..

Miyoda. Komoro. Tanaka.

1JRT>A

( T6ky6 to Ka- V ruizawa (see ( Route 13).

-Branch roads to the Naka- sendo and to Matsu-

. moto.

/ Road to Knna- X tsu over the I Shibu-toge.

("Alight , for (. Lake Nojiri. 1 Alight for as- J cent of Myo- ( kd-zan.

Sakaki. Yashiro. Shinonoe. NAQANO.

Toyono

Mure. Kashiwubara

Tagachi

Sekiyama. Arai.

TAKATA. NAOETSU.

This line, starting from an eleva- tion of 3,080 ft. at Karuizawa, descends to the sea-coast at Nao- etsa, and is on the whole the vioait ^ctnresque railway route in Japan. The following description of the line, as far as Nagano, is partly abridged from an article in the 'Japan MaiL' The first five or six

miles are over a fairly level plain. But the conditions are changed when the southern slope of Asa- ma-yama has to be rounded. Here lies a water-shed whence flow large rivers north and south, towards the Sea of Japan and the Pacific re- spectively. All the drainage of the great mountain pours down through deep gullies into the channel of one or other of these rivers. The soil, a loosely packed volcanic ash and gravel of light colour, is easily scooped away, and large chasms are left whose sides the highway descends and ascends in zigzags. Throughout most of this section, the traveller looks down from a giddy height on rice-fields far be- low. Prom the point near Oiwake, where the Nakasendo is left be- hind, to Komoro opportunities are afforded of seeing to advantage the Iwamurata plain backed by the imposing range of Yatsu-ga-take. Asama-yama has a less smiling aspect on this side ; the fiat top of the cone lengthens out, the pinky brown colour of the sides assumes a blackish hue, and chasms rough with indurated lava break the regularity of the slopes. Before Komoro is reached, a long volcanic ridge, dominating the valley of the river Ghikuma as far as Ueda, reveals the fact that Asama is not an isolated cone, but the last and highest of a range of moun- tains. A former crater which has discharged itself into this valley and is now extinct, displays a row o^ black jagged rocks in the hollow between Asama and the next peak of the range, a striking feature as seen from Komoro.

Komoro (Inn, Tsuru-ya) is a busy commercial centre. For- merly the seat of a Daimyo, it has turned its picturesque castle- grounds overhanging the river, into a public garden. Saddlery, vehicles, and tools for the surrounding district are manufac- tured here. From Komoro to Ue-

220

EoiUe 32, — Tlie Kai^uizawa-Naoetsu Railway,

da, the railway runs down the valley of the Chikuma-gawa, whose S. bank is here formed by a series of magnificent bluffs, in many places descending sheer into the water. A few miles above Ueda, the valley opens out into a circular plain of which that town is the centre.

Ueda (Inns, Kame-ya, Shishi-ya) possesses few attractions. "White and other silks of a dumble nature, but wanting in gloss and finish, are the principal products of the dis- trict. It is specially noted for a stout striped silk fabric called Ueda-jima.

[The Ndkasendo may be joined at Nagakubo by a jinrikisharoad from Ueda, distance about 11^ ri,

A carriage road also turns off about the middle of the town by the Hofukuji-toge to Matsumoto, whence a jinri- kisha road leads to Shima- shima at the foot of the Hida range of mountains.

Itinerary. Ueda to : Ri. Cho. M.

Matsumoto... 11 25 28i Shimashima.. 5 — 12^

Total ... 16 25 40|

The average time taken by carriage to Matsumoto is 6 hrs. At the top of the hiU just before descending into the town, one of the finest moun- tain views in Japan is obtained. The- whole Hida range spreads out before the spectator, . Yari- ga-take being specially con- spicuous. In the foreground are well-wooded hills, and in the distance the river winds like a silver thread.

MatRnnioto (Inns *Shinano- ya, Kome-ya) is one of the most impoi*tant towns in Shinshu, being the centre of commei'ce between the S. part of this province and the province of

Echigo. Some of the best Bilk: in Japan is produced here. Its other principal manufactures are a kind of cotton cloth called shibori, candied fruit, and baskets and boxes of bamboo work. Matsumoto became a, castle-town early in the 16tli century, and was the seat of & a Daimyo called Matsudairsk Tamba-no-Kami. The greatep part of the castle is still pre- served. It is only 5 min. from the inns, and should be visited if only for the view of the Hid& range and the Matsumoto plam which is obtaiued from the top storey. The chief sights of- Matsumoto are the Shinto temple of Hdchiman and the Buddhist temple of Shogyo- ji. Thirty cho from Matsu- moto, at the vill. of Asama, are some hot-springs much re- sorted to by the towns-folk.

Shimashima (Inn by Oku- hara Jinzo). This is the best place from which to ascend Yari-ga-take (see Koute 34, Section 8). Just across the stream lies the village of Hashiba, where there is a small inn called Shimizu-ya perched above the torrent.]

The old castle t)f Ueda, of which one watch-tower still remains in- t-act, stands on the river bank beyond the town, and forms a striking feature in the landscape as the train leaves the station. The exit from the amphitheatre of hills enclosing Ueda is narrow and hidden from view. Just before the line turns into it, a curious bluff with a cave in its face is noticeable on the other side of the river. At

Yashiro a road branches off to the important town of Matsvuhiro and down the r. bank of the Chiku- ma-gawa to Niigata. Before reach- ing Nagano, both the Chikuma- gawa and the Saigawa are crossed.

Nagano, Temple of Zenkoji,

221

The head-waters of the latter are near Lake Suwa. It flows past Matsumoto, joining the Ghikuma- ^awa a short distance to the S.E. of 3^agano, and forming with this larger stream the great Shinano- ^wa which enters the sea at Nii- >^ata. One of the spans in the Sai^wa viaduct is 200 ft. in length. Nagano or Zenkoji (Inns, *Ogiya, *Fuji-ya, with branches at the station ; Puji-yahas rooms fitted up in foreign style at its establishment near the temples ; the Japanese Club called Tosan-kvxin, which has a room of 144 mats, commands a fine view of the town and plain) is the <3apital of the prefecture of Nagano, "which comprises the whole pro- vince of Shinshu. It is beautifully situated at the foot of lofty moun- tains, which form an imposing back- ground and almost surround it. A •considerable trade is done in woven goods and agricultural implements. Numerous fine buildings in foreign style, and the crowds of pilgrims thronging the streets, give the town an air of exceptional prosperity. The Buddhist temple of Zenkoji is one of the most cele- brated in Japan. It is dedicated to Amida and his two followers, Kwannon and Daiseishi (the latter a, Bosatsu belonging to the retinue of Amida), a group of whose images is here enshrined.

This sacred group is said to have been made by Shaka Muni himself out of gold found on Mount Shumi, the centre of the Universe. After various vicissitudes in China and Korea, it was brought to Japan in A.D. 552, as a present from the King of Korea to the Mikado on the first introduc- tion of Buddhism into Japan. All the efforts of the Japanese enemies of Bud- 4lhisni to make away with the image were in vain. Thrown into rivers, hacked at, l)umt, it survived all and finally found a resting-place at Zenkoji in A.D. 6U2.

The building 1. of the entrance is the residence of an abbess of high rank and a sisterhood of nuns. Bows of shops for the sale of rosaries and pictures of the triple image line the court. Behind the

shops are the houses of the priests* each in its own neatly arranged garden. At' the end of this court is the chief gateway, with images of Monju and the Shi Tenno, which are exhibited only on New Year's day. The Main Temple, erected in 1701, is a two-storied building^ 198 ft. in depth by 10» ft. in width, with a huge three-gabled roof, so that the ridge is T-shaped. This £oi*m is called shumoku^ zukuriy from its resemblance to the shumokuy a wooden hammer with which the Buddhists strike the small bell used by them in their religious services. The roof is supported by 136 pillars, and there ' are said to be 69,384 rafters, the same number as that of the written characters contained in the Chinese version of the Buddhist scriptures. At the entrance two beautiful new marble lamps, about 6 ft. in height* deserve inspection. The sacred golden group, standing in a chapel on the W. side, is kept in a shrine dating from A.D. 1369, shrouded by a gorgeous brocade curtain. For a small fee, the curtain is raised so as to show the outermost of the seven boxes in which the image is enclosed. A space of 88 mats (about 1,600 sq. ft.) is set apart for the worshippers. On the E. side of the main hall is an entrance to a dark gallery which runs round below the floor of the chancel (naijin), issuing again by the same door. To complete this circuit (kaidan-mawari) thrice is considered highly meritorious. More than 200 bronze and stone lanterns crowd the space in froilt of the main hall.

The principal festivals are the Dai Nembvisuy or Great Invocation of Buddha, held on the 31st July, those held at the vernal and au- tumnal equinoxes, and one on the 14th March, in commemoration of the terrible earthquake of 1847.

This catastrophe occurred about 10 o'clock at night, and threw down moat of

Itoute 32, — The Kandzaiva-Naoetsu Bailicay.

tbe bouses in the town. Fires broke oat simnltaueoaslj in many quarters, and in the space of two da^^s bomt the whole place to the ground, with the exception of the main temple, the two-storied gatehouse, library, and bell-tower. A more serious calamity still followed shortly afterwards; for the 8aigHwa, which had ))eeu blocked near Shimmachi by the fall of a large mass of earth from the hill-sides, burst through the obstruction on the 27th, and the pent-up waters spread like a deluge over the level valley, overwhelming many Tillages and drowning by thousands the peasants who, regardless of warnings from the authorities, had returned to tiH the fields. A}x>ut 15,noo acres of nce>fields and other arable laud were flevastated by the flood, and the number of those who perished on these two occa- sions was estmiated at nearly 30,U00.

On the r. of the temple enclosure, is the Public Oarden which com- mands a good view of the vaUey.

EXCUBBIONS FROM NaGANO.

1. Bnrando Yaknshi, 1 ri N.E.

of the town, a shrine dedicated to the Buddhist god of medecine, is perched high above the path in a large tree growing out of the rock. Close by are some petroleum springs.

2. Togakiishi-san and Ken-no- mine. Five ri from Zenkoji is the temple of Togahishi-san, whither the god Tajikara-o-no-Mikoto is said to have hurled the rocky door of the cavern in which the Sun-Goddess had hidden herseK from her sub- jects in heaven and earth. The road, which is passable for jinriki- shas drawn by two men, leaves the town on the 1. side of the temple, and ascends a narrow ravine to the hamlet of Arayasu in about f hr. Then winding over low hills and ascending for f hr. more, it issues on to a moor which encircles the base of Izuna-san. In f hr. more, a torii is reached at the highest point of the moor. The path then descends for over a mile to a point where it divides, the r. branch proceeding direct to the Chu-in, the 1. reaching the Hoko-in after 12 cho more. The latter temple, situated at the top of a long flight of flteps lined with old cryptomerias^

is a large building decorated with wood carvings of considerable merit. From this point to the Chu-in is a walk of 12 cho through the wood. Those who intend to chmb JTen-no- mi7^e, the highest point of the moun- tain behind Togakushi, will do best to pass the night here. The priest will provide good accommodation. The road to the Oku-no-in (dOchoi is pretty level the whole way, ex- cept during the last few hundred yards. The priest's house com- mands a fine view, including the summits of Fuji and Asama. Half-way between the bridge and the red gateway on the road to the Oku-no-in, a path branches off r. under a wooden torii to Ken-no- mine. A walk of about 3 ri leads to the summit, below which is a hut where pilgrims pass the night, in order to rise early and witness Himrise from the peak whence Amida is supposed to be visible riding on a cloud of many colours. Snow lies on the mountain until late in summer, and the ascent is not usually attempted before the beginning of July.

3. Izuna-san, or liznna-san, as

the name is also pronounced, may be ascended either from Arayasu or from the Chu-in ; but the latter is preferable, as the climb from Ara- yasu is steep. From the Chu-in, the summit is easily gained in 1^ hr. by walking up a long spur. The view is very extensive in every direction. The traveller may re- tiu*n either to Arayasu by descend- ing the steep path on the opposite side, easily pei-ceived from the mountain top, or strike away to the 1. by a_path leading across the moor to Of urunia on the Hok- koku Kaido, and close to Kashiwa- bara station, — a 3 hrs. walk.

The railway from Nagano conti- nues along the plain as far as

Toyono. Here it enters a narrow valley, which it follows up until Kashiwabara is reached at a height

Lake Nojm, AkaJciira,

22a

of 2,204 ft. At Toyono a road leads over the Shibu-toge to Kusatsu (see p. 149). A fine view is obtained of Izuna on the 1. as Kasliiwabara is approached. This section of the line traverses a le^on where the snow-fall is es- pecially heavy, and where it occa- sionally accumulates to a depth of over 10 ft. In the winter of 1890- 91 the traffic was entirely stopped daring several weeks.

[The traveller with time to spare should alight here to visit the beautiful little lake called Niijiri-ko, 2i m. distant. As the accommodation at the vill. of Nojiri is very poor, it will be well to arrange one's plans so as to catch a train at Tagii- chi, the next station, or to proceed to the hamlet of Aha- hura, situated on the side of Myoko-zan and noted for its hot-springs. Akakura is also the point from which the asc^ent of Myoko-zan is most easily made. Kashiwabara station lies some distance from the miserable vill. of the same name. The walk from the latter is through a pleasant oak wood, whence the road descends slightly to

Nojiri {Inn, Katsura-ya), pictiiesquely situated on the shores of the lake which is surrounded by low hills covered with thickets." On a densely wooded islet, approached by a bridge about ^ m. in length, is a temple called Uga-no- Jinja. In front of the temple stand two 'magnificent cedars, one of which measures 27 ft. in circumference. The view of the giant masses of Izuna, Kurohime, and Myoko-zan, as seen from the island, is ex- ceptionally fine. This romantic little spot is only prevented from becoming a favourite sum- mer resort by its remote situa-

tion and the want of decent inns. Good bathing may be had in the lake, and the roads in the neighbourhood are all that one could desire. The lake sometimes freezes at the end of January, when the ice becomes passable for men and horses. Its waters find an outlet into the Sekigawa, which, flowing from sources on Togakushi-san and Yakeyama,. falls into the sea at Naoetsu in Echigo.

From Nojiri to Akakura is a walk of 2 hrs. But jinrikishas. may be taken to the vill. of TagiH on the main road,, whence, turning sharp 1. over the lower grassy slopes of Myoko-zan, it is a distance of 23 cho to the baths. Leaving- Nojiri, the road descends to the small town of Sekigawa, named after the river and situated at the junction of two pictur- esque wooded glens, where the tori-ent rushes under the branches of trees overhang- ing it on either side. This river — the Sekigawa — here forms the boundary between the provinces of Echigo and Shin- shxL. A short distance beyond the town of Sekigawa, a road branches off r. to Tagiiclli station, the nearest point on the line of railway for Aka- kura.

Akakura is a favourite re- sort of the inhabitants of Takata and other places on the plain during a part of August and September. It possesses an excellent inn, the Kogaku-ro, boasting a gigantic bath, which is supplied with hot water brought in pipes from sources 2 n further up the mountain. This inn is closed during the winter months. The other inns are of an in- ferior description. From the hamlet nothing obstructs the

•224

Eoiite 32. — The Karuizawa-Naoetsu Railway,

glorious prospect of the rich plain extending down to Naoetsu on the Sea of Japan, and of the island of Sado on the dim horizon. About 3 ri off, between Kurohime ' and Myoko-zan, is a large waterfall called Nae iw taki. As ah*eady indicated, Akakura is the most convenient point from which to make the ascent of

My oku-zaii (8,180 ft.). This mountain is not free from snow until July, but may be climbed with safety in June by any one properly equipped for as- cending and descending the enow-slopes. The necessary appliances consist of a stout alpenstock and hob-nailed boats, or, instead of the latter, waraji (straw-sandals), under which must be fastened metal points called kana-kanjiki. A iruide should he engaged, and instead of ascending by the pilgrim's path, which is ex- tremely steep and overgrown with tall bamboo grass, the path to the solfatara under Akakura-yama should be taken. This also lies through the same sort of canebi*ake, but has the advantage of rising very gently and of being shorter than the other. From the solfatara, where two springs of very high temperature gush forth, a steep gully, filled in early June with snow has to be ascended, and the main path is entered at a point where it is no longer difficult or steep. One or two snow-slopes are crossed, and a rocky precipice scaled, to which iron chains have been fixed in order to enable the moun- taineer to pass along the narrow ledges — no more than 2 inches wide — which here serve as a path. It is at such places that the super- iority of the waraji and kan- jiki over nailed boots, which

afford no sure foothold on. rocks, becomes evident. Above the last snow-slope very little remains to be done, and the track which ascends the crum- bling rock of the summit by natural steps is perfectly safe, though somewhat steep. Myo- ko-zan is part of an extinct vol- cano. The mountains im- mediately surrounding it axe the long semi-circular ridge called Myoko-zan-no-Urayftma, or the 'Hind-part of Myoko-zan/ on the S. E., and Kanna-yaiiia on the N. Other solfataras, besides that mentioned, are found on the mountain. Hares, which turn white during the winter, abound ; bears and sheep-faced antelope are also occasionally caught. Water is found at the very summit, on which is a small wooden cha}>el dedicated to Amida. The view- to the S.E. includes Asama and Fuji. Directly S. rises Kurohime with its two peaks, between which is seen the top of Izuna-san. Ken-no-mine bears about S.S.W., and the round-topped mountain bear- ing W.N.W. is Yakeyama^ ^ reputed to be an extinct vol- cano. To the N.E., the view lies over the plain of Echiga to the Sea of Japan and the Island of Sado. Not less than 7 hrs. should be allowed for the ascent and descent, the latter being steep and slippery in many places. The mountain is much frequented by pil- grims during the season, especially on the 23rd night of the 6tli moon, old calendiGur, when they ascend in great numbers by torchlight from the villages on the surrounding' plains, but do not pass through Akakura. — From Akakuiti a path descends through Fnta- mata, (26 cho) to Sekiyama, 1^ ri. The path to Taguchi station

Myokd'zan, KaoeUni to Xiigata.

225

is shorter, but the difference has to be made up by rail.]

There is a falling gradient of Skbout 600 ft. in the 4i m. traversed "between Taguchi and^

Sekiyaina (Inn, Ogi-ya). The ascent of Mydko-zan may also be made from here, but it involves a longer walk over the moor than from Akakura. ' The gradient is still heavy until Aral is reached, "where the country becomes flatter.

Aral is a flourishing town noted for tobacco, pueraria starch {hixu), and petroleum, which last is ob- tained from springs in the neigh- l>ourhood. Here is first seen the custom peculiar to most of the towns in Echigo, of covered ways ^ Along the house-fronts, for use when the snow lies deep in the streets.

Takata {Inn, Koyo-kwan) is a large place, formerly the castle- town of a Daimyo named Sakaki- liara, one of the four families who enjoyed the privilege of provyiing a regent during the minority of a Shogun. The town is traversed by a long street, which bends re- peatedly at right angles. Cotton- "treaving is extensively carried on. The Hokkoku Kaido branches off 1. near here to the provinces of Kaga, Xchizen, etc. (see Route 33).

Naoetsil (Innsy Matsuba-kwan, Tamazald-ya), situated at the mouth of the Sekigawa, is a port of call for steamers to Niigata, Tnshiki, and other places on the "West Coast. It is also at present •the terminus of the railway which will ultimately reach Niigata, about 94 m. distant. This line, opening up one of the richest provinces of Japan^ is no less important for strategical reasons. It will practi- cally bring Niigata within one day of the capital. Tunnels are to be cat at several places on the coast l)etween Hassaki and Kashiwa- saki. Naoetsu produces . a jelly called awa-ame, made from millet, and appreciated by both Japanese and Europeans.

About 1 ri to the S. of Naoetsu lies the vill. of Qochi (Inn, Shimizu- ya), a favourite resort during the hot weather, where several good tea-houses have been built on the cliffs overlooking the sea. Ex- cellent bathing may be had on the long stretch of sandy beach imme- diately below.

The traveller wishing to reach Niigata, has a variety of routes to- choose from. The easiest way is to go direct by steamer which leaves Naoetsu daily, from April to November, calling at Kashiwa- zaki, Izumosaki, and Teradomari. The whole distance by sea is 34 ri, and is accomplished in 9 hrs. The distance by land is a trifle less, leading for the greater part along either the sandy beach or a ridge of sand-hills. The whole of this coast as far as Teradomari {Inn, Oshiki-ya), is inhabited by a population of hardy fishermen; and the sea yields sea-bream (tai), plaice (fcdrei), and a kind of brill (hirame),. in large, quantities and of great size. The fish caught here are considered much superior in flavour to those taken off the coast of Etchu further Wefat. The women are strong and capable of the hardest toil. They usually per- form the labour of porters, and even drag carts. Muslin made of hemp,, and called Echigo chijimi, is woven in the neighbouring villages, and generally dyed indigo colour with a faint pattern in white. The Japanese esteem it highly as mate- rial for summer clothing.

The journey may also be divided between the sea, the road, and the river by leaving the steamer at Kashiwazaki {Inn, Tenkyo), 10 ri from Naoetsu, where a road branches off to Nagaoka (Inn, Masu- ya), 7 ri, from which place, and calling at 8anjb (Inn, Chochin-ya), the river steamers take 5 or 6 hrs. to Niigata. *

Or continuing the sea rout^

226

Route 32, — Niigata* Island of Sado,

to Izumosaki (Inn, Kakinoki-ya), £i shorter land journey may be made to Toita (Inn, Shiojin), 3 n, where also the river is reached, and from which Niigata is about 14 ri distance by steamer.

The itinerary by road for the whole distance is as follows.

NAOETSU to :— Ri. Cho. M.

Kuroi — 35 2}

Katamachi 1 29 4|

Kakizaki 2 33 7

Hassaki 1 24 4

Aomigawa 2 27 6|

Kashiwazaki 1 34 4f

Arahama 1 18 3f

Shiiya 2 — 5

Izumosaki 2 29 6|

Yamada 1 23 4

Teradomari 1 22 4

Yahiko 3 7 7f

Takenomachi ....... 2 9 5i^

Akatsuka 1 22 4

Uchino 1 23 4

NIIGATA 3 19 8.J

Total 33 30 82^

I4ii$rata (Hotel by Miola called Restaurant International ; Inns, Yoshi-kwan, Kushisei), capital of the prefecture of the same name, is situated on a narrow, sandy strip of land between the Shinano- gawa and the sea.

Niij3:ata was opened to forei^ trade in 1869; but the commercial eipecta- tions formed with regard to it have not been fulfilled, and the only foreign- ers jiow residing there are a few mis- sionaries. Owing to the bar at the mouth of .the river, vessels of foreign build cannot enter the port, but are "Compelled to anchor in the roadstead, outside. A supplementary port in the Is- land of Sado,called Ebim-Mimtto, is open to foreign vessels to take refuge in when the ^lirection of the prevailing wind renders it dangerous to anchor off Niigata ; but trade is not permitted there. The climate of Niigata is very trying,— hot in summer and tenibly cold in winter, snow falling to a depth of 2 or 3 ft., and lying for a considerable time.

The town, which covers an area of rather more than 1 sq. mile.

consists of five parallel streefts intersected by other streets and canals. A line of low sand-hills shuts out all view of the sea. The houses are built with their gable ends towards tbe street, and the. roof 8 are prolonged beyond the walls in order to prevent the snow from blocking up the windows, A great quantity of coarse lac- quer ware is manufactured a^ Niigata, and articles of a peculiajr pattern called mokusa-nuri, or * sea- weed lacquer,' are brought for sale from the district of Aizu where they are produced. In the neigh- bourhood of the city, Echigo chijifni is manufactured from liemp. From the small public garden surround- ing the Shinto temple of Haka- san, there is a fine prospect of the river and of the lofty range of mountains some 10 ri distant to theE.

The chief excursion in the neigh- bourhood is to the kerosene wells of Niitsu, about 5 ri distant.

Travellers intending to proceed north from Niigata, are advised to take steamer to Sakata, Funakawa^ or Hakodate; or else they may fol- low Boute 28 to Tsuru-ga-oks, whence across country to Sendai on the Northern KaUway.

Island op Sado.

The Island of Sado, which lies 32 miles W. of Niigata, can be reached by small steamer from the latter place in about 5 hrs. Steamers nm daily from May to October ; for the rest of the year the sailings are irregular. Sado forms part of the prefectiu-e of Niigata, has a popula- tion of 111,000, and is princi- pally noted for its gold and silver mines situated close to the town of Aikawa. These mines have been worked from the earliest times. During the middle ages, Sado was used as a place of exile for political criminals. Among those who were relegated to its inhospitable shores

Route 33, — West Coast from Tswuga to Naoetsu, 227

was the Buddhist saint^ Nichiren. The island is very hilly, consisting of two groups of mountains, se- parated by a cultivated plain. The principal formation is limestone.

Aikawa (Inn, Takada-ya), though it has a population of 13,000, is a poor-looking pla<;e.

Ebisu (Inn by Ito Seiemon), where passengers from Niigata generally land, is a large but wretched vill., situated on a narrow strip of beach between the sea and a lagoon. The distance from Ebisu to Ai- kawa is 6 ri 29 cho (I62 m.).

ROUTE 83.

The West Coast from Tsuruga TO Naoetsu.

1. itineraries : MAIBARA-TSURUOA BRANCH RAILWAY, TSURUGA TO FUSHIKI, PUSHIKI TO NAOETSU. 2. DESCRIPTION : T8URUGA, PU- KUI, KANAZAWA, FUSHIKI, [nANAO IN NOTO,] TOTAMA.

1. Itineraries.

A four or five days' trip, enabling the traveller to see something of the coast of the provinces of Echi- zen, Kaga, and Etchu on the Sea of Japan, is that from Kyoto to Tsuruga by the Tokaido and Mai- bara-Tsuruga Railways, through the historic old city of Kanazawa in Kaga to the port of Fushiki in £tchti« whence Naoetsu, the present terminus of the Karuizawa-Naoetsu Bailway« can be reached by steamer

in a night. The entire distance between Tsuruga and Fushiki may be accomplished in jinrikishas, bat it is rough travelling.

Maibara-Tsuruoa Branch Railway.

I r

w _ /^

Names

fl BS

of

Remarks.

3 W

Stations.

45m. 49^-

MAIBARA

See Eoute 38. See Route 44.

Naga,hama

56i

Takatsuki.

57i

Inokiichi.

59

Kinomoto.

6ii

Nakanogo.

64f

Yanagase.

71

Hikida.

75i

Tsuruga.

76

KANA-QA-SAKI.

(Pier Station).

Itinerary from Tsuruoa to Fushiki.

TSURUOAto:— Ri. CU. M.

Daira-ura 6 4 15

Takefu 4 35 12|:

FUKUI 5 4 m

SAKAI 5 — 124^

Kanatsu 2 15 6

Yossaki 2 23 6^

Daishoji 2 18 6

Komatsu 5 — 12|-

Matto 5 8 12i

KANAZAWA ... 4 28 Hi

Imaisurugi 6 32 16f

Takaoka 4 3 10

FUSHIKI 2 4 6i

Total 56 30 139

The best plan in fine weather, however, is to abandon the land for the sea during a portion of this journey, by taking steamer from Tsuruga to Sakai, a run of 4 hrs.

In the event of the steamer between Fushiki and Naoetsu not being available, the following is the itinerary by road ; but travel- lers are warned that the road is mostly dull.

228 Boute 33, — West Coast from Tmmga to Xaoetsu,

PTTSHIKI to :— RL Oho. M.

Higashi Iwase ... 3" 5 7f

Namerikawa 3 6 7f

XJotsu 2 8 5^

Tomari 7 29 19

Itoigawa 9 6 22J

Nagahaina 9 8 22J

NAOETSU 2 18 6

Total 37 8 90|

2. — Description.

The railway journey between Kyoto and Maibara is described in fioute 38; and the shores of Lake Biwa, as far as the next station^ Nagahama, in Route 44.

At Xagahamu {Inn, Masu-ya at station), the railway leaves the lake and the scenery becomes tame. From Tanagase onward to Hikida the line runs in narrow valleys between wooded hills and through several tunnels ; thence through cultivated country down to the coast of the Sea of Japan.

TsiiriijBrA has two stations, one called Tsuruga, another, 5 min. further on, called

Kana-ga-saki, or the Pier Sta- tion. The latter {Inns, Daikoku- ya, Sankai-ro) shoiiild be preferred, as the steamer-office, bank, and other useful institutions are in its vicinity. Tsuruga has the best harbour on the Sea of Japan, and is in constant steam communication with the lesser ports up and down the coast. The town itself is somewhat shut in ; but a charming view of land and sea is to be obtained by climbing a little hill near the railway sta- tion called Atago-yama, beyond which again is the site of the castle of the celebrated warrior Yoshisada. The long promontory closing in the bay on the W. side, and sheltering it from those N. W. blasts that render the winter on this coast so terrible, is called Tateishi-zaki. On its extremity stands a lighthouse — ^not, however^

visible from the town. The streteli of land to the N. E., which looks like a promontory as seen from Tsuruga, is called Kome-no-ura.

At Paira-iira the road leaves the coast and strikes inland. Xt improves somewhat after reaching

Takefii (Inn, Tatami-ya). This place manufactures marbled paper, cotton, silk, and hardware. One of the most striking objects in the^ neighbourhood is the moimtain of Hina-ga-take.

Fiikiii (Inns, Kashi-ya; restt. Tsulvimi-ro), formerly the capital of the Daimyos of Echizen, still possesses the picturesque remains of the castle which was their seat, and a Hongwanji temple with a beautiful view toward the hills. To foreigners, Fukui will be fur- ther of interest as having been the residence from 1871 to 1872 of the author of the * Mikado's Em- pire,' the Rev. Wm. E. Griffis, to whose pages the reader is referred for a graphic and touching account of the abdication of the Daimyo on the 1st October, 1871, when tho decree abolishing feudalism had been issued.

Sakai, also called Mikiini (Inn, Morota), the port of Fukui, ist situated at the confluence of the rivers Hino, Asuwa, and Kuzuryu,. and has steam communication with the other ports on the coast.

Daishojl (Inns, Daikoku-ya, Ka> ruhana) was one of the places to which the Christians of the neigh- bourhood of Nagasaki were exiled during the last i)ersecution of 1867-1873.

Komatsil {Inn, Shimotoku) was formerly a castle -town belonging- to the Daimyo of Kaga. Its chief manufacture is silk gauze. Not far from Komatsu, is the vill. of Tartiashiro having hot-springs, but worthy of notice chiefly from the fact that it provides most of the clay for the potters of Terai and Kanazawa.

Maito produces oil, siUc, dye8»

Kanazawa, FushiJcL Nanao.

229

and cotton goods. The cultivation in this district is carried on with great industry and economy, even the ridges between the rice-fields being sown with beans or barley.

Kiinazawa {Inns, Ayabe, Asada, Takabatake; European food at a restt, in the public garden) was the seat of the lords of the province of Kaga, the richest of all the Dai- myos. It is now the capital of the prefecture of Ishikawa, which in- cludes the provinces of Kaga, Noto, and Etchu. It is both clean and picturesque, and the hills above it command a fine prospect. The castle is now used as the head- quarters of a military division. I'o the r. of the castle is the Public Garden called by the literati the Sixfold Garden, because pos- sessing six excellencies, viz. size, pleasing appearance, labour be- stowed upon it, an air of antiquity, running water, and a cliarming view. The grounds contain an In^ dustrial Museum (kivangyd haJmbw tsu'kwan), and a fine monument erected to the memory of the sol- diers who fell fighting in the Satsu- ma^ rebellion. The monument, which was erected in 1880, consists of a pile of large stones on which stands a handsome bronze figure of Yamato-take, over 18 ft. high. At Kanazawa the celebrated Kutani porcelain is to be procured in abundance. A visit should be Jwiid to the potteries of Gankwa-do near the Public Garden, where the processes of making and paint- ing the porcelain can bo inspected. Bronzes inlaid with gold and silver (xogan), and fans are also manu- factured.

Iniaisiiriigi (Inn, Tokko-ya) is a flourishing place.

Takaoka (Inns, Akai-ya, Etchii- ya) is situated in a cotton-weaving and silkworm-breeding district, and is noted for its dyeing and manufacture of hardware. It is a large place, stretching for a mile or more along the road.

Fnslilki {Innshy Okada, Ueda)„ on the coast has attained some importance of late years as a port of call for steamers, but is other- wise unattractive.

[An excursion may be made from Fushiki to Naiiao, the capital of the province of Noto.

This pi-ovince, the Jutland of Japau, obtains its name from the word noffu, which means * peninsula ' in the language of the former Aino aborigines.

Itinerary.

FUSHIKI to :— Ri. Cho. M.

Himi 2 28 6^

Ninomiya 3 33 9.^

NANAO 2 17 6

Total 9 6 22^

Though the road is osten- sibly meant for jinrikisha traffic, the heavy nature of the soil and a pass called the Arayama-toge, which has to be encountered on the way, gene- rally necessitate walking as far as Ninomiya. There is fair accommodation both at Himi and at Nanao.

Nanao (Inn, Ogome-ya) is a considerable town situated on the shores of a minia- ture inland sea, across which toy steamers ply. The chief attraction in the neighbour- hood is the mineral spring of Wakura, 6 m. distant, which is much resorted to by the people of the country- side. But it, and indeed the province of Noto generally, — low, sandy, and poor in historic associations — are little calcu- lated to interest the foreign visitor. Mr. Percival Lowell, the well-known traveller and author of * Noto : An Unex- plored Comer of Japan,' after having divided all places into two sorts, namely, those worth seeing but already seen, and those not yet seen but not worth

230

rL02U(' 3 J:. — Mountains ttf Ktchu and Hida.

seeing, says, *Wakura struck mo as falling into the latter halves of both categories/]

The best halting-places between Fushiki and Naoetsu are Uotsu {Inn, Hakata-ya), and Itoi-gawa {Inn, Hayakawa). The last day of the journey is also the most pic- turesque, as the road leads for several miles along bold cliffs by the shore, commanding a glorious view of the Sea of Japan.

For Naoetsu see p. 225.

Travellers who may be desirous of visiting

Toyama {Inns, Taisei-kaku, Eu- ropean food ; Ki-ya), (tai^ital of the prefecture of the same name an<l of the province of Etchu, can do so by taking a small boat from Fushiki to Higashi-Iwase {Inn, Kushi-ya), a small port at the mouth of the Jinzu-gawa, in about 3 hrs., whence to Toyama is 2 ri 2 chd by jinriki- sha. Toyama can also be reached more directly from Takaoka by jinrikisha all the way, a distance of 5 ri 29 chd. Toyama was formerly the castle-town of Matsudaira Shi- gematsu, a cadet of the Maeda family, of which the Daimyo of Kaga was the head. The castle is now utilised as a school. Its prin- cipal trade is in medecines and leather. The sn6w-capped summit of Haku-san is a striking object in the landscape. Toyama is a good starting point for those who, approaching them from this side, wijh to penetrate into the wild mountainous districts.of Etchu and Hida, described in the next Eoute.

ROUTE 34.

The Mountains op Etchu ano Hida.

1. introductory remarks. % tate- yama. 3. from toyama to taiia- yama in hida by the valley of* the takahara-bawa. 4. kai«^a- zawa in kaga to takayama by the valley of the shirakawa. 5. takayama to matsumoto a^i> ueda by the hirayu and abo passes ; ascent of norikura. [takayama to matsumoto by thk nomugi pass.] 6. takayama to gifu on the tokaido railway. 7. takxvyama to fukushima ox the nakasendo. 8. yari-ga-take. 9. nagano to toyama over thk harinoki pass. 10. ontake and the koma-ga-take of shinshu.

11. HAKU-SAN.

1.— Introductory Eemabks.

The provinces of Etchu and Hida may be conveniently taken together, because hemmed in be- tween the same high mountain ranges which render this region exceptionally difficult of at cess, and have prevented it from being much visited even by the natives of the surrounding provinces. Lying completely beyond the reach of railways and modern civilisa- tion, no part of Japan has changed so little of late years.

l^ho range bounding these pro- vinces on the E. is the most con- siderable in the Empire. The only one that can compare with it is that lying between the Fuji- kawa and the Tenryii-gawa in the provinces of Koshii, Shinshii, Su- ruga, and TotOmi. Many of the peaks are streaked with snow until the early autumn, while in some of the recesses and gorges where it is partially screened from

Introihictory Uemarlcs, Tateycaua,

231

tlie sun's rays, the snow never entirely disappears. Extending almost due N. and S. for a length of ^ or 70 miles, with a breadth of from 5 to 10 miles, this range fonns a well-nigh impenetrable bar- rier to communication from the S. and E. It consists chie^y of granite, overlaid in places with igneous rocks. Norikura and Tateyama are volcanic peaks. The highest and most conspicuous of the nume- rous i)eaks, beginning at the N., aire as follows :

FT.

Tateyama 9,500

Yari-ga-take 10,000

Norikura 9,800

Ontake 9,800

Haku-san 8,900

Koma-ga-take 1 0,300

Among the wild animals of this region may be mentioned bears, doer, the goat-faced antelope, and two kinds of boars. The streams abound with trout. The few inha- Ijitants are hardy, simple folk, clad in hempen garments, often with the addition of an antelope skin, and earning a scanty living by hunting, wood-cutting, and char- coal burning. Their food consists of buckwheat and millet, while barley, hemp, beans, and mulberry-leaves form the other chief i^roductions of the valleys.

It will thus be seen that the mountaineer has but hard fare to expect, and will be wise to provide himself with as many tins of meat, pr^ssrved milk, etc., as can be packed into a small compass. The recom- mendation is advisedly framed in these terms; for much luggage cannot be carried, owing to the ji^eneral scarcity of men to carry it. Needless to add that the accommo- dation is often of the roughest. Only at Toyania the capital of Etchu, at Takayama the capital •of Hida, and at a few other of the larger towns, is the ordinary stand- ard of Japanese provincial comfort attained. Should the varying effi-

ciency of the carrying companies which undertake to forward goods from one portion of Japan to an- other permit, comparative comfoi-t and plenty may be ensured by send- ing boxes of food, extra clothing, books, and whatever else may lt>e required, ahead to the chief towns through which one expects to pass. It is, however, always advisable to leave a good margin of time, as the Japanese are not to be relied on for punctuality or despatch.

For practical convenience sake, three mountains have been in- cluded in this rovite that do not topographically belong to it — Ha- ku-san, Ontake and the Koma-ga- take of Shinshii — because, though not actually forming part of the same range, they are not far dis- tant from it, and are likely to interest the same class of travel- lers, and to bo visited during the same trip.

The district treated of in this route may be best approached from one of three sides, viz. from Ueda or Nagano on the Kaiaiizawa- Naoetsu llailway ; from Fuku- shima, fuither south in Shinshii; or from the Sea of Japan, on which. side Toyama is the most natural starting-point. The two former approaches are to be j>ref erred by travellers from Tokyo, the last by those coming from Kyoto.

2. — Tateyama.

Tateyama is the collective name given to the lofty summits which stand on the E. border of the province of Etchii, and which, together with the jagged peak of Tsurugi-dake, form the N. ex- tremity of the greatest range of mountains in Japan. The highest of the peaks (Go-honsha), is abont 9,500 ft. above the level of the sea. The main ascent leads up the W* side of the mountain from the ham- let of Ashikura, which can be easily reached from Toyama.

The road up the mountain is

282

liotite 34, — Mountains of EtcJni and Hida,

aiduoas in parts, nor is there any shelter, except two or three wretched huts, to be got during the whole distance of 20 m. from Ashikura to the Muro-do, 2.V m. from the sum- mit. The Muro-do itself is but a somewhat better hut, which is opened for the accommodation of pilgrims from the 20th July to the 10th September. No bedding is pro- curable, nor any food except rice.

[In a valley situated about 6 did to the 1. of the Muro-do are the remarkable solfataras of Ojigoku (*Big Hell'). The whole valley seems alive with I)Ool8 of boiling mud and sulphur.]

From the Muro-do hut to the highest summit, whose name of Go- honsha comes from the picturesque temple with which it is crowned, is 1 hr. climb, partly over snow. At the end, a truly superb panorama unfolds itself before the spectator's gaze. The nimil^er of mountains to be distinguished is extraordinarily great. To the extreme 1., looking eastward, are seen Myoko-zan, Myogi-san, and Yoneyama in Echigo, Nantai-zan near Nikko, and Togakushi-san and Asama-yama in Shinshii. Towards the S. rises the range of Yatsu-ga-take, with the isolated peak of Tateshina- yama, beyond which are seen Fuji and the high jjeaks of Shirane and Koma-ga-take in Koshii. Further S. a^ain are Koma-ga-take and On- take in Shinshu ; Yari-ga-tako, Norikura, Kasa-ga-take, and in closer proximity, Yakushi-dake, all in Hida. To the S.W. is Hakn-san on the borders of Kaga. Below, to the W., lie the plains of Kaga and Etchu, the latter watered by the rivers Jinzu and Jogwanji, while to the N. the view is bounded by the Sea of Japan.

3. — From Totama to Takatam-a.

IN Hida by the Valley of tmis.

Takahaea-gawa.

Itinei'ai'y.

TOYAMA to :— Bi. Cho. 31.

Kumano 1» IS 3|

Okubo 1 18 3|

Machinaga 2 18 6

Yoshino 2 — 5

Inotani 1 — 2.i

Uriishi-yama 4 — 9|

Funatsu 2 — 5

Terabayashi 1 — 2.j

Yamada 1 — 2.}

Suyama 1 — 2.V

Yokamachi 2 — 2.^

Hirose 1 — 2.j

TAKAYAMA 2 8 5i

Total 22 26 55^

The above distances are only approximate. At the hamlet of Kumano the road crosses the Kumano-gawa, and, after passing through Okulo, ascends to the hot springs of Yaki, where, enter- ing the mountains, it continues up the r. bank of the Jinzii-gawa to- Machinaga. So far it is possible^ to take horses ; but beyond this point all baggage must be carried by cattle or on coolies* backs. From Machinasra onwards the scenery be-^ comes romantic. The road follows the side of a deep precipice and in some places quite overhangs jthe stream, being built out on projecting logs of wood. In the ravine l^clow is the Jinzii-gawa, at times flowing along in silence, a deep, smooth^ placid sheet of water, at other tinics dashing with impetuous violence. On the inner side of the path, a swift stream flows along a canal constructed in 1807 to convey water to Nihonmatsu and other villages in the plain to the E. of the Jinzu-gawa. Each curve of the road discloses new and more charming views of the river. Monn- tain torrents tumble down the gnlUes on the 1., leaping from rock

1

allei/8 of the Ta7ia7iara-(/aica and ShiraJcmra.

233

i» i-ock to join the rush of waters far below. After passing the ham- lets of Terazu and Usunami, the traveller reaches Yoshino (poor -accommodation). Close to this vill., the Jinzu-gawa is crossed in a kago-watashi. Fine salmon- trout weighing from 4 to 8 lbs., -ai-e taken in the river. A four- pronged spear, which fits into A staff having a stout line attached to it, is used for catching these fisH. Ai and iwana are also taken by netting. The seasons for fisliing Are the end of spring and the beginning of autumn. After Yo- shino the road ascends, and -comes to a more open part of the valley cultivated with tobacco -and potatoes. Before reaching liwtani, close to the boundary of the provinces of Etchii and Hida, the Jinzii-gawa curves away to the r., while the path to Funatsu follows the r. bank of the Taka- hai*a-gawa, one of its affluents. There is a very picturesque view At the forking of the rivers, and ■almost the whole of the way hence to Funatsu is one of continued rugged grandeur. The copper- smelting works of the Maebira mine at Daira, which is one of the most productive in Japan, are passed shortly before reaching

Fniiatsii {Inn by Kakeni Gon- shichi), a fair-mzed place, where horses can again be engaged for the transport of baggage to the «nd of the journey. On the way to Yainada is a small pass called Akasaka, 3,850 ft. above the sea, and 1,600 ft. above Funatsu. The tea-house of Sakakoha, j m. down on the other side, may be recom- mended for a short halt on account of the beautiful view which it commands across the Yokamachi valley and the low pine-clad hills separating this valley from that of the Miyagawa and the plain round Takayama. At Hirose jinrikishas <^an sometimes be obtained.

Takayamii (Inn, Taniga-ya), the

capital of Sida, is divided into three main parts, called respec- tively Ichi-no-machi, Ni-no-machi, and San-no-machi. The shops are poor. A good panorama of the town and neighbouring mountains can be had from Shiroyama, a hill close by on which a castle formerly stood. It is only a ten minutes' chmb.

4.-=^From Kanazawa in Kaga to Takayama in Hida by the Val- ley OF THE ShIRAKAWA.

Itinerary,

KANAZAWA to:— Ri. Chd. M.

Futamata 2 28 6|

Fukumitsu 2 26 6f

Jo-ga-hana 18 3

Shimo Nashi 4 4 10

NishiAkao 2 26 6f

Tsubaki-hara 3 10 8

lijima 2 18 6

Herase 2 30 7

Kurodani 3 27 9|^

Mumai 1 33 4f

Kami Odori 2 18 6

Maki-ga-hora 2 26 6f

Mikka-machi 10 f

TAKAYAMA 1 20 3|

Total 34 32 85i

This route is not practicable for jinrikishas except between Fuku- mitsu and Jogahana, and again between Mikka-machi and Taka- yama. Jinrikishas are always to be found at Fukumitsu, but at Mikka-machi they cannot be de> pended on. Horses are not pro- curable in the valley of the Shira- kawa, and baggage is transported by cattle or on coolies' backs. Fairly good accommodation can be had at most of the villages. The scenery is delightfully picturesque, and there are many magnificent distant views. Neai* Jo-ga-hana la a pool called Navoa-ike, or the Bto/pB Pool, which is regarded with super- stitious awe by the people of the

23 i

Eoiite 34, ^-Mountains of FAchu and Hula,

'whole country-side. It is visited by pilgrims and the inhabitants of the surrounding district after the rice harvest is over ; but from the time of planting out the young rice until the harvest is reaped, no one will approach the spot, it being supposed that if any one does so, storms and destruction of crops will follow as a punishment awarded by the deity under whose presiding care the pool is jjlaced. So firmly indeed is this superstition engrained in the minds of the peasantry, that watchmen from the different hamlets are selected to guard the T-arious approaches to the pool, and the inhabitants have also bound themselves, under penalty of banishment from their native place, not to act as guides to any travellers before the harvest is over.

5. — ^Fbom Takayama to Matsumoto,

AND TO UeDA on THE KaRUIZAWA-

Naoetsu Railway, by the HiPwA- Tu AND Abo Passes. Ascent of

NOKIKURA. [NOMUGI PaSS.]

Itinerary.

TAKAYAMA to :— Ri. Clio. M.

Matsunoki — 15 1

Hachi-ga-machi ... 1 ' 3 2^

Otani 1 — 2^

Hiomo 1 17 3i

Kate 1 28 4]

Hirayu 2 8 5.V

Top of Abotoge ... 2 — 5 Descent to Azusa-

gawa 2 — 5 ,

Top of Hinoki-toge. 1 — 2.^

Onogawa 1 — 2^

Kumanosav/a 3 2^ 9

MATSUMOTO

(about) 1 18 18|

■» . —

Total 25 6 Ol.^

Leaving the E. end of Takayama

*(see p. 233), the road traverses the

Till, of Matsunoki, where a rope

stretched across the valley testifies to an ancient superstition. Ac- cording to the date at which the weather causes this rope to snap^ omens are drawn for the crops of the ensuing twelve month. It is- replaced yearly on the 7th day of the 7th moon . This spot is one of the ' Eight Views * of the province of Hida. At the top of the Tete-zaka, before descending to Hachi-o-a- machi, the summits of Yari-ga- take, Kasadake, Norikura, and On- take come in view. At the temple of Genraiji in Hachi-ga-iiiachi the priests are willing to receive for- eigners. There are several other temples on the road as far as. Hiomo, where accommodation cau be had ; but after the latter place it is not possible to stay anywhere until reaching Hirayu. The first part of the walk is extremely pic- turesque, and the road is good as. far as Hiomo, beyond which it is but a pathway. At Kuie com- mences the ascent of the Hirayu Pass, whicli lies throusrh the forest for a little more than 1 ri. The descent on the other side, also 1 ri,. is extremely steep, down to the hollow between high mountains where nestles the little hamlet of

Hirayu (fair accommodation)^ This place is frequented by the people of the province for tlie sako of its strengthening mineral hot waters. The only sight in the neigh- bourhood is a cascade some 200 ft> high, formed by the river Taka- hara near its source, and distant 13 cho. The snowy mountain to the N.W. of the vill. is Kasadake. Hirayu is abandoned during the winter months, when the people return to Otani. The road now passes over the Aho-toge, called also the Shinano-tbge (6,400 ft.),, into the province of Shinshiu Pedestrians use this pass in prv- ference to that of Nomugi, tht» distance being 3 ri shorter ; but the way is not practicable for horses or cattle. Yari-^'a-take and

Tahayama to Matswnoto, Ascent of Xorikiira,

235

Kasadake 1., and Haku-san to the S. W., are seen diirinjj the latter part of the ascent; but from the suxniuit of the pass the view is aliuost entirely shut out, nor is there any extensive prospect on t;h.e way down. There are several resting-places suitable for a midday Iia.lt.

Oliog-awa (Inn by Okuta Kiichi) is a small viil. picturesquely situ- ated on the banks of the Maegawa, an affluent of the Azusa-gawa, at a lieight of 3,300 ft.

[From this place it is possible to ascend Norikiu*a. But as the climb to the suumiit and back may prove too much for one day, the traveller is advised to sleep at the furthest hut, about 1^ ri higher up, on the way to which are passed the remains of old furnaces, heaps of slag and ore, etc., indicating the site of the once extensive smelting works of Obi Ginzan. In the side of the hill near by, are seen the openings of the levels of the old mine, which has not been worked since 1860. The ore consists of galena containing a small quantity of silver. The sleeping-hut (4,800 ft.) stands not far from a small stream abounding in excellent trout. There is no road from the hut to the sum- mit, and only occasional traces of a path. At the end there is a climb up a steep snow-field, and then over lava blocks and scoriae, which finally lead to the small shrine of Asahi Gongen on the highest point of the mountain, 9,800 ft. above the sea. Time from the sleei^ing hut, at least 4 hrs. Norikura is an old volcano, the peak being really one of the sides of the crater from which ex- tensive lava-flows have j^oured out, notably in the direction

of Onogawa. Near the sum- mit is a lake.]

From Onogawa to Kumanosawa is a charming walk down a secludod gorge walled in by densely wooded moLiutains, while below rush first the Maegawa and then the Azusa- gawa, spanned at intervals by picturesque bridges. After Kuma- nosawa, the mountains open out to form the plain of Matsiimoto (see p. 220). From Matsumoto, the station of Ueda on the Karuizawa-Naoetsu Railway can be reached by carriage in 6 hrs.

[An alternative way from Taka- yama to Matsumoto is over the Nomugi Pass. The Itinerary is as follows.

TAKAYAMA to :—

m.

Kabuto 3

Kibyu-dani ... 2

Naka-no-shuku 1

Nomugi ..'. 3

Kawaura 3

Yoriaido 2

Nyu-yama 2

Inekoki

SHIMASHIMA 1

Niimura 3

MATSUMOTO 1

Clw.

1 31 13 23

31.

7i 7

3| 9 ^.k

18 ()

— 5

18 l\

*}i

— ^a

18 8.\ 18

• >;» "4

Total 24 32 Gl

Nomugi and Shiniashima are the T)est places to stop at on the way.]

6. — From Takatama in Hi da to

gifu on the tokaico railway.

A road called the Hida Kaidoleads from Takayama down the valley of the Hidiigawa to Gifu on the To- kaido Railway. The first part of the way — that lying within the province of Hida — affords delight- ful views. But on crossing the frontier into Mine, of which Gilu is the capital, one meets with a sudden change in the character of the scenery, bare sandy hillocks re-

236

lioute 3Jf. — Mountains of Etchu and Hida.

placing the well-wooded valleys and rooky I'avines of the earlier portion. Oero, also called Yunoshima, pos- sesses mineral springs. There is fair accommodation on the way, es- pecially at Shimohara. The road is practicable for jinrikishas.

Itinerary.

TAKA YAMA to :— Ri. Cho. M.

Kukuno 3 4 7h

Oesaka 3 32 9|

Hagiwara 3 17^

Gero..; 2 4 5^^

Uoido 3 18 8^

Shimohara 3 — 7i

Kanayama 14 1

Kamibuchi 3 13 8i

Nakanoho 1 33 4f

Seki 5 1 12i

Akutami 2 4 si

GIFU 2 6 5i

Total 33 22 82

7. — From Takayama in ^Hida to

FUKUSHIMA ON THE NaKASENDO.

Itinerary,

TAKAYAMA to :— Ri. Cho. M.

Kabuto 3 1 7i

Kibyii-dani .., 2 31 7

Naka-no-shuku ... 1 13 3^

Kami-no-liara 1 18 3f

Adanogo 1 5 2f

Hiwada 2 20 6^

Kami Nishino 3 — 7 J

Suegawa 2 1 5

Km-okawa 3 — 7^

FUKUSHIMA ... 1 — 2h

Total... 21 17 62^

As far as Nishino, baggage is generally carried by women, some- times by cattle. Though either means of transport is objection- able, there is apparently no other alternative. Beautiful views oc- cur all along the route. The best accommodation is at Kami Nishino, whence it is possible to ascend Ontake, a climb of 7 ri ; but the way is a difficult one, and

either of those given on pp. 238-9 is to be preferred.

8. — Yabi-ga-take.

Yari-ga-tuke, lit. Spear Peak, is most easily reached from the Shin- shii side via Ueda on the Karni- zawa - Naoet-su Kailway, Matsu- moto, and Shimashima (see p. 220).

The way up the mountain — no^w a mere track where formerly there existed a proper road — ^leads over a pass 7,000 ft. high, before descend- ing to the bank of a rivulet where stands the sleeping hut (Tokumota no koya) at an altitude of 4,960 ft., and at a distance of 7 or 8 hrs. from Shimashima. Inconvenience arises from the fact of this hut being too far from the summit of the moun- tain for the ascent and descent to be easily accomplished on the same day. Another hut, called Miya^a- wa no koya, 3 ri further on at the actual base of the mountain, is a better starting-point, bnt difficult to reach in one day from Shimashima unless the baggage be sent on in front. In this quandary the traveller must make his own choice. We should, how- ever, advise go'ng on the first day from Shimashima to the Tohu- moto no koya, where sleep ; ascend the mountain, and return to a rude shelter called Ahasa no koya on the second day, returning to Shimashi- ma on the third. We should also propose that, in addition to the guide, the traveller take with him a strong coolie to carry him across the torrent, which has to be forded many times, occasionally almost waist-deep. The distance from the Miyagawa hut to the summit is called 6 ri. The ascent can be accomplished in 7 hrs., and the descent in 4^ hrs.

The route lies alternately up one side or the other of the bed or banks of this torrent for about 3 hrs. On the 1., steep, craggy granitic moun- tains rise to a height of from 7,000 ft. to 8,000 ft., while on the r. are

Yan-ga-tuhe, The HannoJci Pass,

237

-tamer wooded hills. Noble moun- i»;ins are these precipitous masses of granite, surpassing in wildness ^ny to be seen elsewhere in Japan, iiheir curiously steep forms being not unlike some of the ideal crags •depicted in Chinese art. Perhaps there is no part of the country in so tridy primeval a state — with the -exception of some pai-ts of Yamato — than this torrent valley in the heai-t of the Shinano-Hida range, ■whose sole frequenters are hunters seeking bears or the sheep-faced a>ntelope. At an elevation of 6,400 ft., a rude shed called Akasdka no Iwa-goya, a camping- place for hunters, is passed ; and just above here the forest ceases, And the first snow-field is crossed. Hence the road lies mostly over snow ; but just below the summit, between the peaks, the route winds up and among huge bare masses of rock piled in indescribable confu- sion. From the irregular resting of some of these crags, so called • caves ' are formed, wherein the hunters take up their quarters whilst watching for bears. Ptar- migan are common here. A stiff <;linib up snow and over debris, and a rather dangerous scramble up one side of the peak, land the traveller on a table of a few square yards of rock, the top of the * spear ' ■of the mountain.

^. — From Nagano to Toyama in Etchu over the Harinoki Pass.

The gi'eater portion of the follow- ing itinerary and of the description given below must be regarded as approximate only, the difficulty of keeping communication jopen acr^css so rugged a country being pecu- liarly great. There is no possibility of crossing the pass before the yama- hiraki, or * mountain opening,* on the 20th June. Even during the summer months communication is often entirely interrupted, and

none but the most experienced mountaineers can hope to succeed in forcing a path for themselves.

Itinerary.

*NAGANO to :— Ri. Cho. M.

Sasadaira 3 18 &^

Shimmachi 2 18 6

dbara 1 — 2^

Hashigi 1 18 3f

So 1 — 21

Omachi 2 30 7

Noguchi 18 IJ

Shirazawa 2 18 6

Maruishi-bashi ... 1 2 2^ Top of Harinoki

Pass 1 21 3f

Futamata 24 If

Kurobe 2 11 5f

Top of Zaragoe ... 1 7 3

Yumoto 2 — 5

Yanagiwara 31 2

Seko 1 6 2f

Hara..: 3 — 7i

Omi 1 — 2i

Kamidaki 3 — 7i

TOYAMA 3 — 7i

Total 36 6 88i

Jinrikishas can be taken as far as the hamlet of Koichi, where the Saigawa is joined and from which point the scenery becomes pretty. One ri before reaching

Shimmachi {Inn^ Kome-ya), the road passes over the Yanoshiri- toge, a steep ascent of 18 cko.

The descent to the hamlet of Anadaira on the other side was the scene of a great convulsion in the year 1817, when, owin^^ to an earth([uake, the river was dammed up by a fall of masses of earth from the hills on 1x)th sides. A small cuscade marks the spot where the waters after- wards Inoke through. Boats formerly

* Or NAGANO to:— Bi. ChO. M,

Sasadaira 3 18 B\

Kakajo 2 — 6

Takebu 2 — 6

Pemmi 2 — 5

OMACHI 3 18 8i

Total 13 — 31f

This is the postal roate, but that givem in the text is more picturesque. '

238

lloiite 34, — Mountains of Etchu and tiida.

-went all the way down from Matsumoto to Nagano, but their passage has ever since been interrupfcecl at Anadaiia.

Omachi {Inuy Yama-cho) presents an old-world appearance, owing to its flat-roofed wooden houses like the cottages in the Alps, with heavy stones to keep down the shingling. At Noguchi, where com- fortable quarters can be obtained, enquiries should be made as to the state of the road, and stout-limbed guides engaged for the ascent of the Harinoki Pass. Under favour- able conditions, the next day ought to bring the traveller to Kurobe. The summer limit of the snow on the Harinoki Pass is reached about 1 ?-i from the top, at an eleva- tion of 5,300 ft.

From the summit (7,700 ft.), Fuji is seen as in a vignette between the ranges of Yatsu-ga-take and Koma-ga-take, the other most note- worthy feature of the view being Tari-ga-take.

£A peak called GoroJcu-dakey 9.100 ft., may be ascended from this point ; but there is no shelter to sleep in.]

The traveller now leaves the province of Shinshii for that of Et<ihu, and will notice, both on the Bummit and on the way down, the alder-trees (hari-no-kiy or han-tio- ki) which give their name to the pass. The valley on this side is known as the Harinoki-sawa.

Kurobe is a tiny hamlet with a fishing stream. The road from Kurobe to the baths of Yunioto lies over two steep ascents, the Nukui- dani-toge and the Zaragoo. The Tiew from the toj) of the latter is magnificent. All around, enor- mous landslips and confused mass- es of rock, hurled down from the toi>s of the mountains to the gorge below, bear witness to the terribly destructive forces by which this part of the country has been ravaged. The rocky mass in front is one of ^he slopes of Tateyama, while on the 1. a view of the soft plains of

Toyama and of the sea beyond contrasts agreeably w^ith the savage aspect of the nearer landscape. The Jinziigawa is seen in the plain wending its way towards the Sea of Japan, and the blue outline of the provinces of Kaga and Notc^ fills up the distant background. The descent is through a wilder- ness of rocks and stones. Here and there sulphur fumes are seen rising- from the mountain side.

Yninoto, or Ry uxaii-jita, situated in a desolate waste, possesses liot- springa. All around is a chaos of large boulders, sand, and stones.

Mountain sides da shed down by the violence of the carthtiunke of 1858 still remain a mass of confusion to tell the tale of awf i.l destruction which then oc- cuiTcd. A large portion of Tombi, the precipitous mountain S. of the baths, fell right across the valley and dammed up the stream. A month later, when the sno"\v melted and the vrater burst thronph its baiTier, the villaKCS below, ri<?ht away dowu the valley of the J6f?wanji-gawH, were deluged with liquid mud; and houses^ fields, and human beings were over- whelmed in one common destruction.

On leaving Yumoto, the path continues down a ihagnificently rugged gorge, called Dashiwara- dani at its upper end.

It is often necessary to cross the Jogwanji by a kago no ivatashi, or basket slung to ropes. Before descending to Kamidaki, the best general view of Tateyama and of the range forming the boundary of the province of Etchti is obtained. The names of the highest summits, in order from the 1., are as follows : — Tsurugi-dake, Kodake, Go-honsha, Jodo, Tombi, Kuwasaki, and Ari- mine-Yakushi. The road onward crosses a well-cultivated plain, and joins the Hokkoku Kaido a few cho before reaching Toyaiua (see p. 230).

10. — Ontake and the Koma-ga-

TAKE OF ShINSHU.

The best starting point for the ascent of Ontflke for those ap- proaching it from the Nakasendo

Ontake, Koma-f/a-take, Ilahi-san.

2Sd^

side is Fukushiinaj whence it may Gsusily be climbed in one day, or Agematsu, whence the expedition is rather too long for one day, making it generally advisable to spend the night at the Ta-no- bora hut. The climb is a some- what rou(^h one^ The view from the summit embraces Haku-san to the N.W., then to the r. the penin- sula of Noto, and still further to the r. a row of mighty peaks that bear traces of snow even during the greatest summer hc^ats. Conspi- cuous among these peaks are Tate- yauia, Yari-ga-take, and Noriktira. Par to the N.E. rise tlie volcano of Asama and the chain separating the provinces of Kotsuke and Shin- shii. To the S.E. appeiir Yatsu- ga-take and far-oli" I'uji, with the Koma-ga-take of Shinshu in the nearer distance.

The Shinshii Komn-^a-talie is

most conveniently ascended from Agematsu. The distance from that village to the summit is called 4 ri 8 chu, and the ascent, part of which is very steep, will occupy a good walker over 5 hrs. The native pilgrims, who do not care to make the round of the various peaks forming the top of the mountain, but merely wish to visit Go-honsha, the liighest point, usually ascend and descend in one day. But the traveller is recom- uionded rather to time his excur- sion so as to sleep at a hut called Taniakaho, 3 ri 32 cho from Acrema- tsu, in order to witness the magni- ficent spectacle of sunrise from the summit. Looking eastwards, the eye sweeps along an almost continuous line of mountains rising beyond the valleys of the Chikuma-gawa and Tcuryu-gawa, the prominent sum- mits in order from the 1. being Asama-yama N.N.E., Tateshina N.E. by N., Yatsu-ga-tako N.E. by E., Koma-ga-take E. by N., and, directly oj^posite, Shirane-ga-take, -including its three summits Kai

j

gane-san, Aino-take, and Nodori- san. The sharp peak seen between Koma-ga-take and Kaigane-san is the siunmit of Ho-6-zan. To the S.E. rises a lofty, snow- streaked range with three conspicuous sum- mits, the highest of which is called Akai-ishi. Another striking featiu-e is the cone of Fuji, which towers up beyond a dej^ression to the r. of Isodori-san. Looking westward, the view embraces a consider- able portion of the great chain forming the boundary between the provinces of Shinshu and Hida, the most prominent summit being Ontakc, bearing N. of W., to whose r., rising in succession to the N., are Norikura, Kasadake^ Iwasu-<jra-take, and Yari-sra-take. In the distance, the peaks of Tate- yama are discernible beyond Yari- ga-take. Towards the W. the dis- tant outline of Haku-san is visible^ while in nearer proximity to the S. rises Ena-san in the province of Mine. There is also an extensive view over the province of Mikawa and a portion of Enshii, with several mountains, including the double summit of Horaiji-yama in the former province and Akiha-san in the latter.

11. — Haku-san.

This celebrated mountain, stand- ing on the borders of the four provinces of Echizen, Kaga, Hida, and Mino, is best ascended from Kanazawa, the capital of Kaga (see p. 229). The itinerary to Yimioto at the base is as follows :

KANAZAWA (Oliashi) to:—

Ri Cho. M,

Tsurugi. 3 — 7\

Onnawara o 29 14]

Ushikubi 4 4 10

YUMOTO 5 — 12]

Total 17 33 43if

There is fair accommodation at all thejie i)laces. The road is prac-

2A0

Route 35, — Ba pills of the Tem't/u-gmva.

ticable for jinrikishas only as far as Tsuiiigi. From Ushikubi on- wards the scenery is delightfully picturesque. Yumoto is completely ahut in by densely wooded hills, ^nd is deserted in winter by its inhabitants, who do not return till the beginning of June. The ascent and descent of the moun- tain make an easy day's expedi- tion. The glorious view from the summit includes Tateyama N.E., Yai-i-ga-take E.N.E., Nori- kura a little to the S. of E., Yatsu- ga-take and the Koma-ga-take of Koshu in the dim distance, Ontake E.S.E., and the Koma-ga-take of Shinshii. In the immediate neigh- bourhood are Bessan on the S., and Onanji on the N., which, with the central and highest peak called Gozen-mine, together constitute the three summits of Haku-san. On the N.W. rises the lofty top of Shaka-ga-take. On the E. side is Tsurugi or *the Sword,' so called from its pointed rocky peaks, and on the W. is the Oku-no-in. Two tarns lie at the bottom of what are apparently ancient craters.

Haku-san may also be reached from Fukui in Echizen by the fol- lowing itinerary, the route being practicable — j ust practicable — for jinrikishas as xfar as Katsuyama, but the accommodation all along the road wretched. On the other hand there is some fine wild scenery.

Itinerary. FUKUI (Arahashi) to :—

Ri. Cho. M.

Matsuoka 2 4 5|

Komyoji 1 22 3f

Katsuyama 4 — 9f

Kogo.^ 2 8 6.}

Kotaro's Farm- house 2 32 7

Top of Kijikami

Pass 1 18 3J

Mizutani 2 — 5

YUMOTO 18 3

Total 17 20 42}

ROUTE 35. The Eapids op the Tenbyu-gawa.

[IlDA TO NaGOYA by THE InA.

Kaido.]

These rapids, the finest in Japan, are also among the mosrfc accessible, for they form a natural route connecting the two chief highways of the central portion of the Main Island. — the Nakasendo and the Tokaido. The village where one embarks is called Toki- llinta (Inn, *Umeno-ya). It is reached by travelling along the Kakasendo as far as Shimo-no Suwa, on Lake Suwa, thence to Matsushima {Inns, Mon-ya and Tsuta-ya) on another important highway called the Ina Kaido, and along that highway to lida (/*in, Iwaki - Masu-ya), a large and flourishing town, formerly the re- sidence of a Daimyo named Hori. The poition of the Ina Kaido which is included in this route is by no means lacking in the pic- turesque. It also brings the tra- veller into the vicinity of the Shinshu Koma-ga-take, which may he ascended from lijinia (Inn, Enoki-ya).

Itinerary.

SHIMO-NO-SUWA to :—

Ri. Cho. If.

Matsushima 6 ^ 15

Ina 2 18 6

Akao 3 6 7f

lijima 1 31 4i

lida 5 27 14

TOKIMATA 2—6

Total 21 15 52i

The beSt accommodation on the way is at Matsushima, and at Saka&hitn (Inn, Yorozu-ya), half- way between Matsushima and Akao. The whole way from Shimo- no-suwa to Tokimata is practicable for jinrikishas and can ecisily be accomplished in two short days. But the occasional roughness of

The Tenryu-gawa. I'ula to Nagoya,

241

"tbe latter part of the route neces- sitates the taking of two jiurikisha- men. The passage by boat from ^^okimata down to the Tokaido occupies 12 hrs. The total distance "travelled by water is estimated at 36 ri — say 90 m. — but the latter portion of this is along a compara- tiively sluggish current. The boat cloes not take the traveller actually to the Tokaido Railway. If bound up the line in the direction of Tokyo, he alights at Ikeda, for the station of Nakaliziimi, 1 ri 8 cho distant; if down the line in the direction of Kyoto, he alights at Kakano-machiy for the station of Hamaiiiatsil, 1 ri 28 cho distant. Another good halting-place is Unna (Inn, Ikeda-ya), a resort of pilgrims en route for the shrine of Akiha- san (see Route 38).

The charge for a boat was fixed in 1890 at §20, the justification of this seemi^gjy high price being the fact th^gfit takes from 10 to 12 days to tow the boat up stream again. Boats being not always in readiness, it may be advisable to write ahead (in Japanese, of course) to the innkeeper at Tokimata to order one with 4 boatmen. Tra- vellers are also recommended to time their movements so as to arrive at Tokimata on the after- noon previous to their descent of the rapids. This will enable them 'to make all arrangements overnight and to start early. A spare hour at Tokimata can be pleasantly spent in visiting the picturesque bridge less than 1 H down the river, at the spot where the rough-and-tumble part of its course begins.

The scenery of the Tenryti-gawa is most striking. After passing the bridge mentioned above, the river enters a rocky ravine, and from this point on to Nishinoto, a passage of some 6.^ hrs., is almost one continued series of rapids and races. Walled in between forest- clad mountains that rise abruptly to a height of from 1,000 ft. to 2,000

ft., the river twists and tears along- their rocky base, carving for itself a channel where there seems no pos- sible means of exit. It is in such places that the skill of the boat- men will be most admired, where the boat, which looks as if it must be dashed to pieces in another moment, is shot round the corner only to be whirled on to some new danger equally exciting. Fortu- nately for the lover of the pictur- esque, some blasting which was un-^ dertaken a few years ago with a view to facilitating the transport of pro- duce, has had no very marked effect in marring the ruggedness of nature in this place. On approaching a rapid the man forward beats the bow of the boat with his paddle, both as a signal to the others and in the superstitious belief that it will bring good luck. Of the rapids i)roperly so-called, there are upwards of thirty, the finest of whicli_ are : Yagura (The Turret), near Oshima ; Shiii-taki (New Cas- cade), 3 H below Mitsushima; Taka- ze (Hiiih Rapid) ; Chdna (Adze), just beyond Otaui ; Konnyaku (Po- tato) ; Shiror-nami (White Waves) ;, lori ga taki (lori's Cascade) ; and Tania-buro (Mountain Bath), the grandest of all, notwithstanding its- homely name.

[Nagoya, on the Tokaido RaiU way, may be reached from lida by following the Ina Kaido to- Nebano, from which place to- Nagoya is a distance of 22 ri 32 cho through the Potteries (see next Route). The road is- heavy and difficvilt for jinriki- shas. The itinerary from lida- to Nebane is as follows :

IIDA to :— Nakamura . . .

Komamba 2

Ono 1

Namiai 2 10 5i

Hiraya 2 5 5|

NEBANE 2 18 6

Ri. Cho. M. 1 14 3i 2 5 13 3i

Total 11 26 28^

242

Houtc 36. — From Xafjo}ja to Xvhane

This altornative way of roach iuj? the Tokaido from Tida may bo found of use in the event of any accident pre- ventincf the boat journey down the Tenryu-gawa.]

ROUTE 3G.

From Nagoya through

TEEIES TO NeBANE ON

Kaido.

Itinerary.

XAGOYA to :— J?».

Seto 5

Shimo Shinano ... 1 Shimo Hadagawa..

Ichinokura 1

Tajimi

Oroshi 1

Sogi 2

Okawa 1

Akechi 2

Kam imura 3

NEBANE 3

Total 22

THE POT- THE IXA

Cho. 9

12|

Ol

^ 2

27 n

— n

3

27 3

33 38 23

15 2^

4-J

8f 71

32 55f

This road is practicable for jin- rikishas as far as Seto. It leaves Na.jroya by Ozone, a suburb on the N.E., and traverses in succession the insignificant villages of Yada, Moriyama, Obata, Omori, Arai, and Imamura, crossing the wide bed of the Yadagawa just before entering Moriyama. From this point it l^asses over large tracts of flat sandy soil, producing nothing but pine scrub. On the r., some 2 m. distant, a range of low hills is visible. Just before entering Seto, a path 1. branches off direct to the vill. of Shinano.

Seto consists of four hamlets named Kita Shingai, Minami Shin- gai. Go, and Hora, situated on the low hills that surround an almost Kjircular valley. There are about

eighty households engaged in tHe manufacture of porcelain, and seventeen or eighteen where com- mon pottery is made. The porce- lain clay is found in the immediate neighbourhood, the silica bein^ brought from Sannagi in the N.W. corner of Miliawa, about 3 ri dis- tant. A large part of the couiinon pottery known as Seto ware comes from Akazu, about 1 rl further iip the valley E. The best porcelain makers for the foreiiifn market are Kawamoto Masukichi in Kita Shin- gai, and Kawamoto Kansuke in Go. Kato Gosuke in Minami Shingai is celebrated for his translucent white ware, chiefly small pieces. An- other superior maker is Yamakyii. Specimens of their productions may most easily be obtained at the warehouse of KatO Kanesuke in Kita Shingai. Most of the pot- ters work under advances from capitalists in Nagoya ; and as soon as ?ifourn^e is baked they despatch it thither, so that it is of little use going direct to them for their wares.

Seto lins been so fnmons for its ceramic prcMluctseversiiu'e the l.'ith century, when Kato Shirozneinon set up his kilu for th« manufacture of faience, that the word Sefo-iuoiio, lit. ' .SV/o thing's,* has come t,o he used in Japanese as a preneric name for all pottery and i>orcelain, much as the word China is used in English.

The road now winds up a sandy valley and then along a ridge of sand hills to Shimo Shinano, where a little porcelain is baked and clay is dug for the common pottery made at Naka Shinano. The porcelain clay used here comes from Seto. The path to Ichino- kura crosses a small stream on the 1., and, climbing up to the top of another pine-scrub waste, suddenly plunges into a deep ravine with. densely wooded rocky sides, be- tween which flows a noisy stream. This spot is called Ja-no-hara, or the ' Serpent's Belly.' Desceniting- to the mouth of the ravine, the path comes to Shimo Hada^wa^

throufjh the Potteries,

24B

siii'l, crossing the stream to the r., jiroceeds ui> the valley to Kami Icliinokura, and over the hill to Kasawara, where there are some I>otterie3. It then descends the r. side of the valley to

Tiljiilli {Inn, Matsu-j^a), a con- siderable vlll., where inferior porce- lain is made. A short cut may "be taken through Shimo Ichino- kura, where is i^roduced the finest l)orcelain in Mine, with delicfite <lecoration8 in light blue de- rived from the impure Chinese ■cobalt. Kato Gosuke is the best maker, chiefly of tea-pots, te.a-cups, and sake cups. The kilns used for producing the state called biscuit iXTG also utilised for yakl-tsuke, or porcelain with a design over the glaze.

From Tajimi the path turns up a hill to the r. about the middle of the vill., and traverses undulating granite hills. On the way nuiy be seen a place where clay is dug for baking seggars, and further on is a small mill driven by water-power, where the silicious stone used for glaze and for mixing with the porce- lain clay is ground. About 1 hr. walk from Tajimi the path divides, the r. branch going to Tsumagi, and the 1. descending to Oroshi, where common porcelain wares, chiefly sake bottles and tea-pots, are pro- duced. Near the entriince of the vill. is a small mill where the porc<?lain clfiy is broken up and the felspar sifted out. The best potters are Yasaburo Hanzaemon and Kato Yaheiji. Most of the produc- tion goes to Tajimi. Tsumagi lies \ ri S., where large articles of com- mon porcelain, such as dishes sind basins, are made. The native cobalt called konjo is found here, and is used to produce the pale blue so much admired by connoisseurs. A darker shade is derived from an impure cobalt imported from China, and known among the potters as kyugosu. Our word cobalt has been corrupted by them into ko-

haru^ and tliis term is employed to denote the pure pigment obtained from Europe. At the E. end of the village the path divides, the 1. branch going to Dachi, where finer porcelain is produced, and the r. climbing a ridge to a considerable height, which commands a fine view of the country W. A quarter of an hr. between the sandy hill- tops covered with box, brake, junipers, and young pine-trees brings us to the top, 1,500 ft. above the sea. The descent on the other side leads to Sogi, where there are one or two potters. Crossing the bridge and looking down the stream, we see the lofty round top of Ena- san. Sogi is chiefly agricultural, and extends over two valleys, di- vided by a low ridge, at the top of which the path falls into the main road from Seto to Iwamura by Shinano and Kakino. After de- scending slightly the road rises again through the second part of Sogi, and crossing rough, granite hills of the same general appearance as before, but rather steeper, comes down into the tiny hamlet of Okawa. During the descent Ena-san N.E., and the Koma-ga-take of Shinshu N.E. by N. are seen well away on the hori- zon. Some potters, who limit themselves to making porcelain rice-bowls, are established at the W. end of the hamlet. At Mizukami, ^ ri further, are a few potters, while at Mashizume, a considerable vill. ^ ri beyond, a large quantity of inferior porcelain rice-bowls are produced. Here accommodation can be had for the night; bnt better quarters will be found 2^ ri further at

Akcclii {Inn, Sumiyoshi-ya), a small but thriving town. Porce- lain, chiefly tea-cups and rice- bowls of no artistic value, is baked in the town, the materials bein^^ obt-ained from Mashizume and Hara in its vicinity. The pottery es- tablishment dates only from 1875.

244

Boute 37.— The Shinto TemjAes of he.

Akechi Mitsuhide, the traitorous gene- ral who murdered his lord, Nobunagra, took his sumainc from this place, and the foundation walls of his castle are yet to be seen on a hill above the town.

This is the end of the pottery district. On leaving it the scenery gradually improves, sandy hillocks being replaced by thickly wooded hills, and two passes of over 2,500 ft. being crossed before reaching

Nebane (Inn, Snmiyoshi-ya). This is a great centre of traffic between the provinces of Shinshii and Mikawa, the latter sending fish and raw cotton, for which Shin- shii returns tobacco, hemp, and dried persimmons.

Instead of returning the way he came, the traveller may make an agreeable round journey by follow- ing the Ina Kaido to lida, 11 ri 30 chh by jinrikisha, and then descend- ing the Rapids of the Tenryu-gawa to the Tokaido ; or he may continue on from lida along the Ina Kaido, and join the Nakasendo at Shio- jiri. The itinerary of the latter way is as follows.

IIDA to :— Hi. Cho. M.

Akao 7 19 18i

Matsushima 5 27 14

SHIOJIRI 5 31 14}

Total 19 5 46i

Another way, shorter than the last, is from Nebane to Toyohashi on the Tokaido Railway via the noted temple of Horaiji.

Itinerary.

l^EBANE to : - Ri. Cho. M.

Taguchi 4 28 11^

• Ebi 2 24 6.^

Shinshiro 4 19 11

TOYOHASHI ... 4 25 11.}

Total 16 24 40f

ROUTE 37.

The Shinto Temples of Ise.

1. preliminary information. 2*. voyage from yokohama to yok- kaichi and kami yashieo. 3- yamada and neighbourhood- the temples of ise. 4. from yamada to kyoto by road anix kwansei railway.

1. Preliminary Information.

Ise is the name, not of a town^ but "of a province lying to the E, and S.E. of Kyoto on the W. shore of Owari Bay. The temples, which rank chief among the holy places of the Shinto cult, stand on the^ outskirts of the town of Yama- dii near the S.E. frontier of the province. The ways of reaching^ Yamada are as follows :

I. From Tokyo to Atsuta (former- ly called Miya) on the Tokaido- Railway, 1st day; thence by small steamer via Yokkaichi and Tsu to Kami Yasliiro, the port of Yamada, from which it is 1 H 16 cho (3.2 miles) by jinrikisha, 2nd day. Atsuta being the next station to Nagoya, some may feel disposed to spend the night at the European hotel at tho latter place rather than at one of the Japanese inns at Atsuta. It would still generally be possible to catch the steamer leaving Atsuta next morning. *

II. Instead of the railway, take the steamer direct from Yokohama to Yokkaichi, where tranship as above for Kami Yashiro. This shortens the time by half a day in fine weather.

III. From Kyoto by the Tokaido- Railway as far as Kusatsu Junc- tion, and thence ]'>y Kwansei Rail- way to Seki, 4 lirs., whence jin- rikisha to Yamada via Tsu and Matsuzaka in 1 day. When the line is opened from Seki on to Tsn„ the journey will be considerably

Preliminary Information, Yoyafje to YokJcaichi, 245

a1>ridged. At present the schedule is as •follows: —

KwANSEi Railway.

Names

e a *

*

OS S si

of

Remarks.

S M

Stations.

KUSATSU Jet.

5Sm.

Ishibe.

10

Miknmo.

15

Fiikawii.

224

Tsuge.

314

SEKI

CAlifflit for ', Ise.

(36

Kametfama.

45

Kawarufiit.

*

4)1

Yokkuichi.)

IV. There is a cross-country road from Nava to the Temples of Ise, practicable for jinrikishas and occasionally affordinsj pretty views. It is much frequented by pilgrims. The trip takes 2\ days, the itine- rary being as follows :

NARA to— jBj. CU.

Sakurai 2 20

Hase 1 23

Haibara 1 J 5

Sambon-matsu 2 17

Nabari 2 1

Ao 3 4

•Iseji 35

Kaito 2 18

Onoki 2 13

Rokken 3 —

Matsnzaka 1 27

YAMADA 5 1

M.

^\ 4

0

o

7^

0

:A

71 121

Total 28 30 70

The main Ise road is joined at Rokken. The best inns at the various places mentioned in the above ways to Ise are as follows : —

At Atsuta, Okada-ya, Ise-

kyu. Hase, Idani-ya, Yo-

shino-ya. Iseji, Momiji-ya.

Kaito, Momiji-ya.

Kami-Yashiro, Ozaki-ya. Matsuzaka, Tai-ya. Nabari, Tawara-ya.

y*

y*

y*

y*

»»

n

At Nagoya, Shina-chii (Ho-

tel du Pro- grea), * Shu- kin-ro.

Onoki, Fuji-ya.

Rokken, Hotei-ya,

Sakurai, *Taba-ichi.

Sambon-matsu, Mushi-ya.

Seki, Uo-ya.

Tsu,. *Waka-roku.

Yamada,. *Abura-ya.

Yokkaichi, Hamada-ya.

It should be premised that the interest of the trip to Ise is chiefly antiquarian. Without going so far as to say, with a disappointed tour- ist, that " there is nothing to see, and they won't let you see it," we^ may remind intending travellers of the remarkable plainness of all Shinto architecture, and add that the veneration iu which the shrines of Ise are held is such that none but the priests and Imperial per- sonages are allowed to penetrate into the interior. The rest of the world may only peep through the outer gate.

2. — The Voyage to Yokkaichi AND Kami Yashiro.

The Tokaido Eailway journey being fully described in Route 38, we shall suppose that the traveller has elected to go by sea, and advise him to begin by enquiring whether there is any European food to be had on board, and if not, then to take provisions with him for the 18 or 20 hrs. voyage from Yokohama to Yokkaichi, as well as for the further voyage next day on to Kami Yashiro. The voyage is the same as that described in Route 40 as far as the entrance of Owari Bay, where the track diverges, the steamer turning to the r. up the bay near the head of which Yokkaichi is situated. The scenery at the entrance is very pretty. The ship passes between r. Irako-zaki, the hilly promontory that forms the S.W. extremity of

246

Route 37. — TJie Shinto Temples of Jse,

the province of Mikawa, and 1. the islet of Kamishima, behind whose white and red cliffs lie otlior larger islands and the mainland of the diminutive province of Shima. Ahead and to the r., as the ship glides into the still waters of the landlocked bay, are seen portions of the provinces of Mikawa and Owari, notably Cape Moro- zaki, the tip of the peninsula on which stand the commercial towns of Handa and Taketoyo, con- nected with the Tokaido by a branch line of Eailway.

At Yokkaiclli it is necessary to land in a small boat. Indeed the extreme shallowness of Owari Bay prevents any but quite small craft from approaching the shore at any point. The Hamada-ya inn is at the landing-place. Tall chimneys rise above the roofs of the houses, giving the town an appearance which, at least for Japan, is peculiar. The situation is a good one, there being fresh breezes from the bay in summer, and a fine pro- spect of the mountains on the borders of Omi and Iga. Among the principal products of Yok- kaichi may be mentioned oil, rice, paper, silk, and Banko faience, — a ware, for the most part, exceedingly light and having hand- modelled decoration in relief. The best Banko shop is that kept by Kawamura Matasuke in Minami- machi ; but as every variety of this cheap and fascinating ware is easily procurable in Yokohama and Kobe, there is no call to stop over a steamer on its account. At Yokkaichi the excellent Nip- pon Yiisen Kwaisha Steamer is exchanged for a small coasting one. Leaving Yokkaichi, the views are delightful as one skirts the W. shore of Owari Bay. In the dis- tance are the mountains of Omi, Iga, and Ise, and in the fore- ground a pine-clad beach, forming a delicious symphony of yellow, green, and greyish blue, especially

when seen through the opal haze of spring or autumn. The steamer calls in at Tsu, the capital of the prefecture of Mie, at sl little more than half-way to Kami Yashiro ; total time of voyage, about 5 hrs. (If one embarked at Atsuta, then from 7 to 8 hrs.)

[It is possible to travel on in tlie same steamer right round the coast of the province of Kislio, calling in at some twenty small ports, and ending up at Kobe and Osaka. The coast scenery- is charming, but the means of transit too uncomfortable to be recommended unless fine weather were a certainty.]

The Ozaki-ya inn at Kami Ynsliiro is at the landing-place. The road on to Yamada is excel- lent. Indeed throughout the pro- vince of Ise the excellence of the roads, of the jinrikishas, and the jinrikisha-men adds considerably to the traveller's enjoyment. It is also possible to travel in carriages which resemble small prison- vans. .Pilgrims avail themselves largely of this method of progression, which is cheaper than jinrikishas, but also slower.

, 3. — Yamada and Neighbourhood ; The Temples of Ise.

Yamndn {Inns, *Abura-ya, and no less than 269 others, great and small) is a large town formed by the amalgamation of several smaller ones — Y''amada proper, Uji, Furu- ichi, etc. It lives by and for the Ise pilgrims, as do all the towns on the road leading to it from the North. So openly is this fact acknowledged that the construc- tion of the projected Sangu Tetsvdo, or Pilgrim Eailway, from Tsu to Yamada, has been temporarily abandoned in order not to ruin the country-side. The inns and tea- houses of Yamada are peculiarly lively, especially at night. At some of them a celebrated dance is per-

Yamada.

247

formed, called tlie lae Ondo. This dance possesses much grace, added to the interest of a considerable antiquity. Unfortunately, how- ever, the character of the houses at which alone it is generally to be witnessed precludes us from recommending a visit thither. A religious dance called Kagura is executed at the temples before those pilgrims who choose to pay for it. It is divided into three grades, called "Small," "Great," and " Extra Great " (Shd, Daiy DaU dai). The charges for these dances were in 1891 as follows :

Ise Ondo $ 2

8hd Kagura 5

Dai Kagura 10

Dai-dai Kagura 20

Among the peep-shows and booths in which the main street of Ya- mada abounds, are some devoted to yet another kind of dance which may be seen for a cent or two. It is called O 8ugi 0 I'ama. The fun consists in the spectators flinging coppers at the iaces of the girls who form the little orchestra, and who are trained to -such skill in * ducking ' that it is said they are never hit. The chief objects for sale at Yamada, besides holy pic- tures and other articles of Shinto devotion, are ornamental tobacco- pouches made of a i)eculiar sort of oil-paper.

The best way to see the sights of Yamada and neighbourhood is to go the following round which takes a day by jlnrikisha to do comfort- ably : — ^f rom the inn to the Gekii Temple, Futami, Asama-yama, the Naikd Temple, and baek to the inn. The road is flat and good, except- ing up Asama-yama, where there is an ascent of 22 cho on foot, the jin- rikishas being meanwhile sent round the base to await the traveller on the other side. One may con- veniently picnic either at the inn at Futami or on the top of Asama- yama. It may be mentioned that

local Japanese parlance indicates respect for the great temples by suffixing the word San, * Mr./ to their names, — thus Naikii San, GekvL San, pronounced Naixan, Gexan,

Thousands of pilj^i-iins resort nnniially to the temples of Ise, chietly in spring-, wheu the country-folk have more leisure than at other seasons. The rationalistic educated classes of course take little part in such doinirs ; but even at the present day the majority of artisans in 'J^okyo, and still more in Kyolx) and Osaka, believe that they may find difficulty in ^aininc; a livelihood unless they invoke the protection of the tutelary goddesses of Ise by performing? the piljri-imaKe at least once in their lives, and the peasants are even more devout )>elievers. In former times it was not uncommcni for the little shop-boys of Yedo to abscond for a while fi-om their employers, and to wan<ler alonj? the Tokaido as far as Ise, subsist- in*? on the alms which they bejjr^ed fn>m tmvellei-s ; and having obtained the bun- dle of charms, consisting of bits of the wood of whiph the temples are built, they made their way home in the same manner. This surreptitious method of performing the pilgrimage was called uKkp-mairl, and custom forba<le even the sternest ]>arent or master from finding any fault witli the young devotee who had ])een so far for so holy a purpose. Stories are even told of dogs having performed the pilgrimage hj themselves. Those whose home is Kyoto are m**t by their friends at the suburb of Keage on their return home. The custom is for these friends - mostly females - to ride out singing the tune of the Ise Ondo dance, three persons being seated on each horse, one in the middle, and one on either side in a sort of wooden hod or basket. High revel is held at the tea- houses with which Keage alxiunds. This custom is termed naku'innkiii. . The Ise pilgrims may l)e distinguished bj'- their gala clothes and by the large bundles of charms wrapped in oil-paper or placed in an oblong varnished ]k)x, which they carry suspended from their necks by "a string.

The special characterof sanctity attach- ing to the Ise temples arises ]>artly from their extreme antiquity, partly from the pre-eminence of the godclesses to whom they are dedicated. The iW/iA-S, lit. ' Inner Temple,' is l^elieved by the Japanese to date from the year 4 B.C., and is sacred to the Sun-Goddess Ama-terasu, ancestress of the Mikados. Down to the 14th century, some virgin Princess of the Imperial family was always entrusted with the care of the mirror which is the Sun-God- dess's emblem, and of which some Japa- nese writers speak as if it were itseU a deity, while others take it to he merely the image of the goddess. It is kept in a box of chamaecyparis wood, which rests

£48

p.fjute 37.— The Shiiitu Temples of he.

on a low stand covere<l with a piece of I white 8ilk. The min-or itself is wrai)i)etl , in a bHjf of brocHcle, which is never opened , or renewed ; Init when it l)ej?ins to fall to pieces fi-om a«<e» another liag is pnt on, | so that the actual coverinj? consists of many layers. Over the whole is placed a jBort of wcxxlen cage with onraments said i to be of pure gold, over which again is thrown a cloth of coarse silk, falling to i the floor on all si<les. The coverings of the box are all that can l)e seen when the | doors are ojiened at the various festivals. The 6 flu, or 'Outer Temple,' so-called hecause of its slightly inferior sanctity, is now dedicated to the Go(hless (»f Food, ' Toyo-uke-bime-no-Kami, also called Uke- mochi-ncvKami, but was in earlier times under the patronage of Kuni-toko-tachi- no-Mikoto, a g(Ml whose name signifies literally * His Augustness the Karthly IStemally StandingOne ' In either case this temple may l)e considered as sacred to the worship of a deification oE the earth, wliile the Xaiku is dedicated to a deification of the sun, the great ruler of heaven. The native authorities do not in- form us of tlie cliHrHcter of the emblem by which the Karth-(TO<ldess is represented. As in the ease of other .'^hinto temples, so here also at Ise many secondary <leities {ai-dono) are invoked. Those of tlie yuilu are Taj ikai-a-o-no- Kami, lit. * tbe .-trong- Handed-Male-Deity,' who pulle<l tbe Sun- Goddess out of the cave to which she bad retired to avoid her brother's ill-usage, and a gcKldess who whs one of the ances- tresses of the Imperial line. The second- ary deities of the (rein arc Ninigi-no- Mikoto, gnindsou to the Suu-Gtxldess and ancestor of the Imperial liue. and two of the gods who attended him on the occa- sion of his descent from heaven to earth.

A very ancient rule i)rescril>es that the two gieat Ise temples, as also every minor edifice connecte*! with them, shall l)e razed tt) the ground and i-econstructed every twenty years in exactly the same style down to'the mimrtest detail. For this purpose there are, lioth at the Nailu and at the GAu, two closely adjacent sites. The construction of the new tem- ples is commenced on the vacant sites towards the end of the pericwl of twenty years ; and when they are finished, the ceremony of Senyyo, or * Tiunsference,' takes place, the sacred emblems l)eing then st)lemnly and amidst a great con- ocmrse of pilgi'ims removed to the new buildings from the old. These are forth- with pulled down and cut up into myriads of channs (o hurui), which are sold to pilgrims. The renovation last took place in October, 1889. The immemorial anti- quity of the Ise temples is therefore only the antiqnit.^' of a continuous tradition, not that of the actual edifices. It is pro- hable, however, that at no time for many cjenturies past could Ise have l)een seen to such advantage as at present, when the lainnte and enthusiastic researches of

four generations of scholars of the ' PhintQ* Revival ' sch{K)l Into the religious archaeci- log>- of their nation have at last met with official enc(mragement, and the priests have l>een endowe<l with the pecw- niar:^' meaus to realise their dreana of restoring the Japan of to-day to th^ religious in-actices, architecture, and ritual of pristine ages untouched by the- foreign influence of Buddhism.

Leaving the Aburaya inn and wending through the town, wo pass r., in Okamoto-cho, the Shim- pu Kosha, where are sold small gold and silver medals called Shimiju inscribed with the name of the- Gekri temple, together with other cliarms.

The Gvku Temple. The approach is pretty. A Shin-eny lit. 'divine- park/ containing a circular lake^ has replaced the houses and field* that covered the place previous to- 1889, and beyond rises a hill finely timbered with cryptomerias, hugti- camphor-trees, maples, keyalcl, and the sacred though not imposing masakaJci (Cleyem japonica). Thtf main entrance is by the Ichi »io Toni, or ' First Archway,' to whoso r. is the Sanshusho, lit, * Place of Assembly,* where members of tht^ ! Imperial family change their garments i)revious to worshippintjj- in the temi)le. A broad road leads. I hence through the trees to the i temple. A short way up it is the Ni no Torii, or ' Second Archway/ near which is a shop for the sale of pieces of the wood used in the I construction of the temple, packets of rice that have been offei*ed to ' the gods, and o fuda, or paper I charms inscribed with the name of , the Goddess of Food. Next door is I a buildingwhere the fcagura dances are performed at the request of pious pilgrims, and where the food I offerings are sold for a few sen i a meal. Beyond these buildings ! we soon reach the enclosure con- taining the Geku, or actual temple, concealed for the most part behind a succession of fences. The outer fence, called Ita-gaki, is built of cryptomeria wood, neatly planed

The Gehu Temple,

249

.and unpainted. It is 339 ft. in width at the front, and 835 ft. in the real* ; the E. side is 247 ft., the "VV. side 235 ft. long, so that the jshape is that of an irregular olilong, the formation of the ground rather than any necessary rela- tion of numbers having determined the proportions. The temple on the alternative site, which was hewn -down in 1889, had its long side E. and W., and the short N. and S. A little to one side of the middle of the front face is the principal en- trance, formed of a torii similar to those already passed, but of small- ■er dimensions. The screen opposite is called a hampei. There are four other entrances in the Ita-gaki 'formed each by a torii, one on each Bide and two at the back, one of which belongs to the JlfiAre-d^n, where the food offerings are set out twice daily. The S. toHi gives access to a small court, the further side of which is formed by a thatched ^gateway ordinarily closed by a white curtain, while the ends are formed by the Ita-gaki. On the 1. hand is a gate-keeper's lodge. Unless the pilgrim be an Imperial personage, he is prevented by the curtain from seeing much further into the interior; but by ascending Ji bank on the W. side of the en- closure, some idea of the general arrangement of the temple build- ings can be gained.

The curtain here mentioned has a melancholy historical interest. Viscount Mori, Japanese Repi-cscntative first at Washin^on and then at the Court of St. .Tames, afterwnwls Minister of Education 3ind one of the foremost leaders of modem Japanese projyress, was nssassinated Ijy a Shinto fanatic' for havinj?, when (m a visit to Ise, lifted this curtain with his walkinp:-8tick in order to obtain a lietter view of the interior of the temijle court. 'ITie muKler did not take place at once, but some months later, on the 11 th February, 1889, as Mori was donning his «»la imi'form for the ceremony of the pro- mulgation of the Japanese Constitution. The assassin, one Nishino Buntaro, was immwliately cut down by the Minister's -attendants ; but by an obliquity of judg- ment not uncommon in Japan, popular sympathy ranged itself so markedly on

his side as against his unfortunate victim, that i)ilgrimHges were made to his grave in the Yanaka cemetery at Tokj'O, huii- flreds of wreaths and sticks of incense were place<l upon it, and odes composed in the assassin's honour. The populu* infatuation even Avent so far that it was, and ))erhaps still is, l)elieve(l by many that Nishiiio Buntaro' s intercession with heaven will ensure the fulfillment of any desire offered up to the go..ls through him.

The thatched gate-way above- mentioned is the principal opening in a second fence called the Ara- gakiy composed of cryptomeria trunks alternately long and short, placed at intervals of about 2i ft., with two horizontal railings, one running along the top, the other along the centre. The distance of this fence from the outer enclosurd varies from 10 ft. to 36 ft. on dif- ferent sides of the square. Besides the torii on the S., there are jbhree others, one on each side, correspond- ing to the other three main en- trances of the boarded enclosure. These are unusual in style, being closed with solid gates, an aiTange- ment rarely seen in Shinto tem- ples. In side the thatched gate-way is a shed 40 ft. by 20 ft. called tlie 8hijd-den, a restoration of one of three buildings anciently called Naorai-dono, which were set apart for the entertainment of the envoys sent by the Mikado, after the celebration of the Kan- name no Matsuri, or 'Festival of Divine Tasting.' Just inside a small torii are the ishi-tsuho, — spaces marked out by larger stones, r. for the Mikado's envoy, 1. for the priests of the temple. At a dis- tance of 33 yds. from the first thatched gate-way is a second, which gives access to a third court, surrounded by a palisade called the Tatna-gaki, formed of planks about 8 ft. high, placed close together. Just within this court is a small wooden gate-way, immediately be^ yond which is a thatched gate-way, forming the entrance into the cen- tral enclosure. This enclosure is surrounded by a wooden pahsado

250

Fiottte 37. — The Shinto Temples of Ise»

called Mieu-gaHy and is almost a

perfect square, being 134 ft. by IJJl

ft. At the back of it is the Shoden

or chapel, on the r. and 1. of the

entrance to which are the treasuries

(hoden).

The chapel is 34 ft. in length by

19 ft. in width. Its floor, raised

about 6 ft. from the ground, is

supported on wooden posts planted

in the earth. A balcony 3 ft.

wide, which is approached by a

flight of nine steps 15 ft. in width,

runs right round the building, and

carries a low balustrade, the tops

of whose posts are cut into the

shape called hoshu no tama^ which,

strangely enough, is a Buddhist

cfmament, the so-called * Precious

Jewel of Omnipotence.' The steps,

balustrade, and doors are profvisely

overl9.id with brass plates; and the

external ridge-pole, cross-trees,

and projecting rafters are also

adorned with the same metal. A

covered way leads from the inner

gate up to the steps of the chapel.

The two treasuries are raised on

short legs or stands, after the

fashion. of the store-houses of the

Ijoochooans. They are said to

contain precious silken stuffs, raw

silk presented by the province of

Mikawa, and trappings for the

sacred horses. Between the Ita-

gaki and the Ara-gdki stands the

Heihahu-den, intended to contain

the offerings called gohei. Another

building in the enclosure is the

Mike-den, where the water and food

offered up to the gods of both the

Oeku and Naiku are daily set

forth, in winter at 9 a.m. and 4

P.M., in summer at 8 a.m. and 3 p.m.

Up to A.D. 729, the food offerinjrs for the Ifaiktl, hayiog first been prepared at the GekQ, were conveyed to the former temple, thei'e to be set out. In that year, as this ceremony was beinp: performed, the offer- ings were unwittingly carried past some polluting object which happened to be in the road. The consequence was that the Mikado fell sick, and the diviners attri- Imted his sickness to the anger of the Sun- Goddess. Since that time the offerings for both temples have been set out only at the GektU

The offerings made to each of the- principal deities consist of four cups of water, sixteen saucers of rice, four of salt, besides fish, birds, fruits, seaweed, and vegetables^ The offerings to each lesser deity are the same, except that only half the quantity of fruit is provided.

The architecture of the temples of Ise is believed to represent the purest and most ancient native^ Japanese style.

The chief festivals are the * Pray- ing for Harvest ' (Kinen-sai), 4th February ; * Presentation of Cloth- ing' {Onzo-sai), 17th April? 'Monthly festival' (Tsuki-naini no- matsuri), 1 5th June ; * Divine Tast- ing* (Kan-name) f 15th and 16th September ; * Harvest festival *^ (8hinzd-sai), 23rd ' November. Be- sides these a * Great Purification ' (0-harai), is performed once every month, and also before each of the above-named grand festivals..

On the side of a low hill to the S. of the chief temple buildings, stand two much'smaller shrines. That to the 1. is known as Ara-matsuH, that to the r. as Ame-no-miya. Higher up the same hill is the Taka-no-miya.

After thus seeing as much as is permitted to be seen of the Geku, we re-enter our jinrikishas and speed along an excellent level road to Fu- tami, a distance of 2 ri 10 cho. Several villages are passed, of which Kawa- saki and Kurose are the largest, and an unusually long bridge called the 8hio-ai no hashi, spanning the estuary of the Isuzu-gawa. There are constant delightful views of a mountain range to the r.

Fiitanii (Inn, Onsen, with sea- bathing) is considered by the Japa- nese to be one of the finest points of view on their coast, and few art motives are more popular than the Myoto-seki, or ' Wife and Hus- band Eocks,' — two rocks close to the shore, tied together by a straw rope.

In this case the straw rope (tihime) pro- bably symbolises conjugal union. Tuer^

Futami, The Naiku Teivple,

251

is, bo-wever, a legend to the effect that the goA Susa-no-o, in return for ho6i)itality received, instructed a poor villager of this place how to protect his house fi-om futui'e visitations of the Pbigue-God by fastening such a rope across the entrance. A tiny shrine called Somiii Skdzai no Yaskiro com- memorates the legend.

The view of islets and bays stretching away eastwards is in- deed very pretty, and the rocks at Futami are of a peculiar character, being chlorite schist, a metamor- phic slate. It may nevertheless be doubted whether Europeans would single out Futami for special praise from among the countless lovely scenes in Japan.

[At a distance of 2 ri 10 cho beyond Futami lies the beauti- ful harbour of TobA {Inn, Osaka-ya) in the province of Shima, which may be reached by jinrikisha. The private dockyard there, called Tekkd- sho, will interest some tra- Tellers. A road leads hence to the celebrated waterfall of Na- chi in Kishii, and right round the coast of that province to Wakayama and on to Osaka. As already mentioned, small coasting steamers also make the round touching at about twenty ports. The roads and accommodation are rough, but the scenery delightful and the winter climate mild.]

If the weather be fine, none should miss the view from Asama- yama, which is one of the grandest in Japan. As explained on p. 247, this mountain stands between Putami and the Naiku Temple,, and all except some 22 cho can be done in jinrikisha. The highest point where tea-houses are found and whence the celebrated view is ob- tained, lies 1,300 ft. above the sea. Below in the foreground is Owari Bay, while on the horizon stretches a long series of mountains, — Futago-yama on the Hakone pass, Fuji, Yatsu-ga-take, Akiha-san, the volcano of Asama, Koma-g^-

take, Tateyama in Etchu, On- take, Norikura in Hida, Haku' san, Aburazaka in Echizen. Ibuki- yama in Omi, Tado-san, Mitsugo- yama, Suzuka-yama, andNunobiki- yama on the W. frontier of Ise. The most conspicuous are Haku-san and On take. About 10 cho along the path over to the province of Shima is the Oku-no-in, or upper temple, dedicated to the Buddhist^ sainrt Kokuzo Bosatsu (Sanskrit, Akdsha'* garhha). It is a very pY*etty little shrine.

Rejoining the jinrikishas, a drive among rice-fields brings us to the outskirts of Yamada, where behind its new 8hin-en, or * Divine Park,' and embosomed in an antique grove, stands the Naiku Temple dedicated to the Sun-Goddess Ama- terasu. The arrangement of the temple grounds and enclosure is similar to that at the Geku; but the Naiku, as the more sacred of the two, is on a somewhat larger scale. The outer enclosure is 195 ft. in front, 202 ft. at the back, and 369 ft. at the sides. The inner- most enclosure (Mizu-^aki) measures 149 ft. in front, 150 ft. at the back, and 144 ft. on each side. The bare open space adjoining the temple is the alternative site, which will be used to build on in the year 1909, when the present buildings are pulled down.

4.— From Yamada to Kyoto bt boad and kwansei railway.

This is the Kyoto-Ise route sketched out on pp. 244-5, but tra- versed in the opposite direction. The road is excellent the whole way from Yamada to Seki, where the Kwansei Railway is joined, and perfectly flat except just at the end. Numerous towns and villages are passed through, constant bands of pilgrims are met, arrayed in holiday attire, and an air of bustle and prosperity pervades the whole country-side. To the 1. are

252

Eoiite 37, — The Shinto Temples of Ise.

pleasant views of the Ise-Iga-Omi range. The well-cultivated plain to the r. mostly appears boundless, as it is too level k) allow of many glimpses being caught of Owari Bay which lies beyond. The fol- lowing are the most important places on the way : —

Matsiiziika (Inn, Tai-ya). The name of this town should be fami- liar to air Japanese scholars, as the birth-place of Motoorii

Motxx)ri Norinaga, the prince of Japa- nese literati, was born in 1730 and died in 1801. A pupil of the scarcely less distin- guished scholar Mabuchi, he continued Mabuchi's work of investigating Japanese antiquity, bringing back into literary use the pure ancient Japanese language, restoring the Shinto religion to the supi-e- macy ot which Buddhism had robbed it, in a word, emphasising and glorifying everything native as agaiust that part of Japanese civilisation which was new and of foreign' origin. The restoration of the Mikado to the absolute authority which centuries before had been usurped by the Shoguns, w^as natui-ally a prime object of the endeavours of a man to whoia anti- quity and perfection were convertible terms, and in whose belief the Mikado was really and truly a descendant of the Goddess of the Sun. Motoori and his school thus became to some extent the authors of the revolution which, half a century latei*, overturned the Shogunate and brought the Mikado forth from seclu- aion to govern as well as reign. Motoori's works wei-e very numei'ous. The greatest is his elaVx>iute commentary on the Kojiki, called Kojiki Den^ which is prac- tically au encyclopaedia of Japanese ancient lore, written in a style as clear as it is elegant. The printing of the 44 volumes of which it consists was not con- cluded till 1822, long after the author's death. Motoori was tirst buried at Myo- rakiiji, some miles from Matsuzaka.

The town is dominated by a hill called Yoio-no-Mori, on which stand the remains of the castle founded in 158-i by Kamau Hida- no-Kami XJjisato. Below, at the entrance to the grounds, is the little Shinto temple of Yamamuro Jhx^a, dedicated to Motoori who has been apotheosised during the pre- sent reign.

Tsn (Inn, *Waka-roku). At the entrance to the town, on coming from the direction of Yamada and JUatsuzaka, stands r. a temple dedi-

cated to Yuki Kotsuke no Suke, » celebrated retainer of Kusunoki Masashige. It dates from ISS^, and offers an elegant example o£ modern Shinto architecture. The same grounds contain a gaudily painted little shrine of HachimaiL. In the middle of the town are two noted Buddhist temples, known as Ktvannonji and Ko no Amida. The former is i*ather tawdry, the latter exquisite though on a small scale.

The legend on which the sanctity of tbis temple rests, is a good example of the fusion that took place between Buddhism and iShinto in early times. A Buddhist priest named Kakujo made a pilgrimage of one hundred days to the shrine of the Sun-Go<lde8S at Ise to entreat her to reveal to him her original shape,-!- tbe idea in those days l)eing, that the Shinto deities were fivatars, or temporary mani- ; testations (Gongt-u), of which Buddhist I saints were the originals {Jlonchi ButtHr}. On the hundi-edth night the Sun-Goddess appeared to Kakujo in a dream, com- manding him to go out next morning on. the seashore of Futami, where she pro- mised to show herself to him as she really was. He did so, and there appeared. floating on the surface of the wavea &

SM-coloured serpent over ten feet lon^. ut £he priest was not yet satisfied. " This," cried he, ** is but a pious frard on the part of the divinity, whose real shape that monster can never be,"— and. so saying, he took off him his priestly- scarf and flung it at the serpent, which va- nished with it into the sea. Three nights later the Goddess api)cared to Kaknjd in a second dream, and said : " The serpent indeed was but another temporaiy mani- festation. My real shape is preserved in the temple of Muryojuji at K5 in the dis- trict of Suzuka in this same land of Ise. Go thither and thou shalt see it." He went accordingly, and found that Amida was the Buddhist deity there worshipped. The image was considered so holy that the priests of the temple at fli-st refused to show it ; but what was not the aston- ishment of all present when, on Kakaj5*s request l)eing at last granted, the scarf which he had thrown at the sea-serpent was found twined round the image's neck !— All this happened at a very early period. The removal of the temple to Tsu took place about A.D. 1680, when the origiual shrine at Ko had fallen into decay, and the image had been found one day thi'own down on the place where the temple now holding it has been raised in its honour.

The holy image is enclosed in a shrine on the altar, and is only exhibited on payment of a te%

Tsiu lashinden, Zeni-lcake-mnUu,

253

^'wlien a short service in its honour is performed and the legend re- <3ited by the attendant priest. R. and 1. are images of the * Kwannon of the Thirty-three Places/ with "the Shi Tenno in front.

The * Thirty-three Places' are thiity- t;liree shrines sacred to Kwannon in the l>rovince8 surrounding Kyoto. Tliey are «.ll carefully numliered, the first l^einjuf Fudarakuji at Nachi in Kishti, and the last TaniRumi-dera in Mino. The ])ilgrim- M^e to these places was instituted hy the !Eiui>eror Kwazan, in obedience to a vision. This monarch, after losing his tenderly loved consort, abdicated in the year 98H, ftnd becoming a monk, devoted himself thenceforward to devout practices. In imitation of the original Thirty-three Places, thirty-three other places have been ■established in Eastern Japan, and also in the district of Chichibu.

Behind, and continuing all round the walls of the building, Are diminutive images of all the Bnddhas and Bosatsu, called Sen- -oku Buisu, lit., a thousand hun- dreds of thousands of Buddhas. Among other objects of interest, note the very large wooden figure representing Buddha dead. It is laid on real quilts. Gilt and painted carvings of Buddhas and angels fill the ramnia of the chapel. The green coffered ceiling is cov- «red with gilt Sanskrit characters in relief. A mirror in front of the altar attests that the temple be- longs to the Shingon sect. A small octagonal stmcture to the 1. •contains gilt images of the Thirty- three Kwannon. If possible, this temple should be visited in the evening, when there are almost always crowds* of pilgrims, who — though Ise is their chief objective point — also think it well to pay their respects at all' the lesser shrines on the way thither.

Shortly after leaving Tsu, those who can appreciate Buddhist ec- clesiastical architecture should in- struct their jinrikisha-men to turn a few yards out of the way to visit the immense temple of Senshuji more commonly called Takata no Ooho, at Isshinden.

This, the chief monastery of the Takata su1)-sect, was founded at . TaVata m fcihimotsuke by the celebrated ahljot Shin- ran Sh5nin in 1226, and removed herein 1485 by the priest >Shin-e.

The building is closely similar in style and scale to the vast Hon- gwanji temples described under Tokyo and Kyoto, which is as much as to say that it is majes- tically spacious and chastely rich. The architectural similarity is ac- counted for by the fact that the Takata and Hongwanji are sister sects, both being subdivisions of the great Shin sect.

At the hamlet of Toyokuno is a sacred tree, called Zeni-kake-matmi, because the faithful are in the habit of tying coppers to it by- wisps of paper.

This custom is founded on the followinir leffenrl :— In the yenr 838 a nobleman named Ono-nt)-TaVHraufa had been banished to the 0><i Inlands for having refused to po as Mmbjissador to China. So hin wife, disc^onsolHte, resolved to make apilgrrimaffe to Ise in order to intercede with the Sun-Goddess on Ids bertalf. On reachinRT this bamlet, she enquired the wny of some srass-euttei"8, who, peroeivinor ) er to be a gentle lady unused trt trav»^l and dangler, told her ax a soriy jest that the shrine she sought was still twenty days distant. She was already wearied out, und had bnt a few coppers left. So believing that the Siin-Goddess would non'lesfend to listen to tlie pirnyers of the faithful w^herever of- fered up, she flung herself down before the pine-tree as the goddess's emblem, and then tied to one of its branches all the cop- per coins that she still possessed. The grass-r^uttei's, avaricious as well as eruel, ntf*>fi pted t-o st-eal the money ; but forth- with it chaneed into a two-headed serpent whirh dartecl out u]K>n them. Thereupon they were converted from their evil ways* and the story ends by their escortinjr the lady on the short journey thence to Ise, and by eveiy one living happily ever after.

Ono-no-Takamura is celebrated as the aut or of a set of verses intended as a memorift terhnica for students of the C3ji- nese ideographs, which _ is still in common use. The following is an example : —

Ilrtru tsnhafci

m»

Xntsft wa enoki ni

Sff

Ak> hisagi

tkfSt

Fuyu wa kilragi

«^

Onojlku wa kiri

mm

//

.1

254

Boute 37. — The Shinto Temples of Ise,

The rneaning is that if to the radical for •tree' be added the chnraeter for * Kpring,' the resulting- compound is * camellia ' ; that the same radical and ' summer ' combine to form the enoki ti'ee, and so on.

On climbing the hill that leads into the valley where Seki lies, the long serrated peak seen 1. is Shakujo-ga-take, while Suzuka- toge rises straight ahead. At

Seki (Inn, Uo-ya), we join the Kwansei Eailway, built sdongside a portion of the old Tokaido road which is crossed and recrossed. The road climbs the Suzuka-toge, but the railway line cuts through

it by two tunnels. The gral^ is nevertheless steep enoug]^ make the assistance of an engine necessary. The scene] very pretty all the way to the station, Tsiige. The valley opens out on both sides. B< reaching Mikiiiiio, the mouni about Lake Biwa come in view' the r. At

Kiisatsii Junction, where it Kwansei line terminates, the ti^ veller changes carriages for Kyoti^ the journey of a little over 1 hr. %' .^ij^ which place is made by Tokai<||- Railway.

\i

It

r

SECTION IV.

ROUTES CONNECTING TOKYO

AND KYOTO.

Routes jS — 40.

Bottte 38.— The Tdkaidd.

25t

ROUTE 38.

Thb Tokaido by Bail fbom Tokyo TO Kyoto and Kobe.

IKTATEBFALLS OF SANG. MIO-NO- MATSUBABA. FBOM OKITSU TO 8SIZUOSA via TEMPLES OF KUNO- ZAN. FBOM KAKEGAWA TO AKIHA.

O . lA

Names

Stan from oky(

of

5 -

Statioiii4.

Remarks,

H lOj

125

18

26

32i

43

49 Kdzu.

f.5

61

71

80 86

96

101 110 114

lao

128 132 137 140 140

TOKYO (Sliim- bnshi)

ShinagnwR '\

, Omoii I '

Kawasaki - See Route 2.

Tsurumi I i

Kanagawa i )

YOKOHAMA. , Hocloga.vv . I

Totsuka. I !

I 1 Clianpe for,

, OFUNA Jet ! J Kamakura &

' I ( YokoBuka.

Fujisawa.

1 CAliorht for as- 1

Hiratsuka I * cent of Oya-'

I _ , (. ma (p. 61). I

. Oiso.

AUght for Mi- yauoshita, Hakone, and Atami.

Matsuda,

Yamakita.

Oyama.

Gotemba...

Sano. Numazu.

Suznkawa Iwabuchi

Kambara. Okitsu .....

Kiiri.

SHIZUOKA.

Yaizu.

Fujieda.

Shimada.

Kanaya.

Hori-XLo-uchi.

S Alight for as- 1 i cent of Fuji,

^Travellers f i-om the west alight for Fuji. Atlwa- bnchi alight for Kami-ide waterfalls (j>. 121) and Mi- nobu (p. 128.)

( Excui*sion to i Kuno-zau.

150 156

174

180 19f) 196 2(»1 210 22J

228 231 235 240 240 249 254 2f« 2(W •i{7l 278

2F8 297 302

I

Kt^kegawa FnUuroi.

) Alight I Akiha.

for

161 ' NaUaizumi

168 HAMAMATSU.

Maizaka.

Washizu.

Toyohashi.

tioyu.

Kamagovi.

Okazaki.

Kariya.

TTravellers

down rapids 1 of Teitrytl

& l)ounfl K.

enter train

here, v ^Tenryil tra- * vellers fori

the W. enter!

train here.

;l

223 Obu

j ^Change for 1* Kamesaki, 1 ) Handa, and

Otaka.

Atsuta.

NAGOYA.

Kiyosu.

Ichinomiyu.

Kisogawa.

OIFU.

Ogaki.

Tarui .

Seki-ga-hara.

Nagauka.

) Hail L Tak

ketcno.

284 MAIBARA Jet.

Hikone.

Notogawa.

Hachiman.

Change for! Nagaliama & TsnrugH.

313 EUSATSU Jet.

.ni9 ' Baba (OTSU). 321 I Otaui. 3245 ' Yamashina. 327 a Inari.

329 KYOTO.

383 Mukomachi. 3375 I Yamazaki, H425 I Takatsuki. 34fi*. Ibaraki. 351 I Suita.

359 OSAKA

{

Kwansei Rail- way, see p. 245. ,

361 365 870 375

376

KanzaVi.

Nishinomiya,

yumiyoshi.

Saunomiya.

KOBE.

Alight for' I J Nara and . ( bakai. i

The word TokaUlo signifies '£ast«>m sea road** The name was given to this* road at an early date on account of itH- running along the seM-shore in an easterly direction from Kyoto, which, being the o\A

258

Boiite 38.— The Tokaidd.

historic capital, -wns naturally regarded as the startinsy-point. From the 17tli <!entury onwards, tlie Tokrtido was tra- versed twice yearly by Daimj-Ss coming with their gorgeous retinues to pay their respects to the Shogun at Yedo ; and all the chief towns, here as on the other great hiahwnys of the Empire, were provided with honjin — thut is, specially line tea-houses— for their lordships to sleep at. The greater portion of the l)eautiful avenue of pine-trees with which the road was lined still exi^^ts, and can bd seen occasionally from the windows of the railway carriage. The road itself is now comparatively deserted. " But what a scene it used to present ! How crowded with pedestrians ; withnorimons (the palanquins of the upper crust), and attendants; with ciinffoes (the modest bamboo conveyance of the humble classes) ; with pack-hors-s, conveying merchandise of all kinds to and from the capital or to the busy towns and -villages along the route ; with the trains of dairayos or of lesser gentry entitled to travel with aretinue ; and with the coraraon- iilty, men, women and children, on foot, all with their dresses turned up for facility Of movement, and for the most part taking the journey pretty easily ; frequently stop- ping at the numberless tea-housea or rent- ing sheds by the way, and refreshing t\ em- «elves with the simple little cup of weak green tea, and a cheeiy chat with whom- i<oever might stop like themselves to rest. It used te seem tliat distance was no consideration with them. They could po <m all day, and day after day, if only they were allowed (which they generally were) to take their own time and pace. Tlie value of time never entered into their

thoughts

The numerous trains of armed men passing in both directions were the most striking feature of the scene. Never could one go out of one's house in any direction, but these two-sworded men were met with ; but on the Toknido, and in the btreets of Yedo, they appeared to be more numerous than the common people; and it must be undet stood that at this time of which I am speakmg, the crowds on por- tions of the road and in all the principal thoroughfares of the capital, were as great as in the most crowded thoroughfares of T^>ndon. It took one forcibly back to the feudal times in Europe, when no noble or lauded proprietor thought of going abroad unattended by his armed dependants. Added to this, there was a certain air of mntiquity that imparted its charm to the scene. The old Dutch writers described the road long ago, and it was even in tlieir -day, precisely as it was in ours. A good, well macadamised, causeway, (except that the hard stratum was of pebbles, not of broken stones^, passing thi-ough numerous populous villages, only divided from each * >ther by short intervals, where fine old tre^s on both sides of the road were the sole divi- sion between the road and the paddy fields.

The etiquette of the road was well »n&. rigidly defined. "When the trains of two princes met, it was incumbent on the lesser of them — (measured by his income as re- cognised by the Government, and published, in the official list), to dismount from his norimon, if he happened to be riding in one* and draw with his followers to the side of the road whilst the otlier passed. When- ever it was possible, therefore, such meet- ings were avoided." t

The railway was begun in. 1872 and finished in 1889. Tra- vellers with time on hand are ad- vised to break the journey at Kdzu, in order to vi«it Miyanoshita and. Hakone ; at OJcitsu, in order to visit Kuno-zan on the way between that station and Shizuoka ; at ShizuoJca itself, and at Nagoya. Of these places, three, viz. Miyanoshita, Shizuoka, and Nagoya, have hotels in foreign style. Those who are hurried may console themselves for missing these interesting places by the knowledge that the scenery through which they are to pass has many charms, including superb views of Fuji from both the land and the sea side. The least in- teresting portion of the line is that between Shizuoka and Nagoya, a six hours' run which may with- out disadvantage be performed after dark.

The first hour of the journey — that between Tokj'^o and Yokohama — having been already described in Eoute 3, calls for no further remark. The train runs into Yoko- hama station to pick up passengers for the West, and runs out again for a few minutes over the same ground, but soon diverges to the 1.

Fiijisnwa {Inns Inage-ya and Wakamatsu-ya at station) is famed for its Buddhist temple of Tugyo- dera^ in the miraculous heaUng powers of whose abbots extraordi- nary faith is placed by the lower orders of the surrounding coxuitry- side. Unfortunately a fire de- stroyed the greater portion of the buildings in December, 1880.

t This description is quoted from Black's " Young Japan," Vol. I. p. 163, et aeq.

Section of Railway tiear Fuji.

259

Should the intention of restoring tHem to their original splendour be cari'ied out, they will well merit a visit. The site lies some 8 ch6 from the railway station. After passing Fujisawa, the Ha- kone range, behind which towers the cone of Fuji, begins to come in sight r. Soon afterwards the line crosses the broad stony bed of the River Banyii, which rises in Lake Yamanaka on the N.E. flank of Fuji.

01 SO is a favourite bathing resoi*t; see p. 62. At

Kozii (Inn, Hayano), the line turns inland up the valley of the Sakawa-gawa, in order to avoid the Hakone mountains which effectu- ally bar the way to all but foot-pas- sengers. The scenery now becomes i mountainous, with to the 1. the chief , I)eaks of the Hakone range, — Putago-yama (the *Twin Moun- tain,' so-called from its double ' rounded summit), Myojin-ga-take, | Kammuri-ga-take, and Kintoki-zan (horn-shaped). An extra engine is put on at Yiiiiinkitii to help the train up to Gotemba, the high- est point on the line — 1,500 ft. above sea level. Between Ya- makita and OyniiiA (not_to be mistaken for the mountain Oyama, with a long O), the scenery is wildly picturesque, and there is a rapid succession of tunnels and bridges, testifying to the engineer- ing difficulties that had to be over- come. At

OotembA (Inns, Yoshijima-ya at station, and Omiya in the vill. 12 cho <listant), the passenger finds himself in the broad and fertile plain sur- rounding Fuji's base, a plain whose soil indeed has been formed by the volcanic outpourings of the great mountain during countless ages. The long-ridged wooded mountain immediately to the 1. of Fuji is Ashitaka. The range to the spectator's 1. from the carriage window is the Hakone range, the lowest point of which visible from

here is the Otome-toge pass lead- ing over to Miyanoshita. At Sano,

[The waterfalls (Sano no taJci) 12 cho from this station by jinrikisha make a charming picnic resort, there being a tea-house with arbours scat- tered about. The water form- ing the falls comes from Lake Hakone via the tunnel men- tioned on p. 107. Keigashima, 17 cho beyond the Sano water- falls, is another picturesque spot, remarkable for its curious rocks and possessing a deserted shrine suitable for a picnic]

where one still has Fuji and Ashitaka to the r., the other mountains, from r. to 1., are Amagi- san in Izu, Yahazu-yama (a small peak), Higane-san on the other side of which lies Atami, the Hakone range, and in front, isolated as if let drop independently into the plain, Kanoki-yama. The railway turns west, and rejoins the old Todaido at

Niimazil (Inn, Moto - doiya). There is much marshy ground in this, neighbourhood, whence pro- bably the name of the place (numcL =* marsh').

Siiziiknwa (Inn, Koshu-ya) and Iwabliclii (Inn, Tani-ya).

[Travellers from the Kyoto direc- tion intending to ascend Fuji can alight at either of these stations, it_ being 3 ri from either to Omiya. One goes from Suzukawa to (3miya by tram in 1^ hr., passing through the town of JYoshiwara ; from Iwabuchi to Omiya by jinriki- sha. Most persons prefer the tram, as cheaper and more ex- peditious. The Wataya inn at Omjya is well-spoken of. From Omiya it is a 2^ ri walk, mostly uphill, to Murayama, where the actual ascent of Fuji commences; see p. 117. Iwabuchi is also the starting-

260

PiOiite SS.'-The Tdkaido.

point for the beautiful water- ' falls of Kami-ide on the W. side ot Fuji (see p_. 121), 5^ riy passing through Omiya. Suzu- kawa is the starting-point for the temples of MinoDu, J3 W, and for Kofu, 24 ri, see p. 128.]

It is about Suzukawa that the nearest and most perfect view of Fuji is obtained. Nowhere else does the * p£»erless mountain ' so absolutely dominate its surround- ings. The beauty of the stretch of shore from here to the mouth of the Fujikawa, called Tago-no-ura, has been sung by a hundred Japa- laese poets. The Fujikawa is noted for its rapids (see p. 135). From here toOkitsu is very beauti- ful, the space between. the sea and a range of liills to the r. becoming so narrow as barely to leave room for the line to skirt the shore.

Okitsii {Inns, Minakuchi ya, Kai- sui-ro; the former is semi-foreign, tl^e latter has arrangements for sea-bathing) has a lovely view of the Bay of Suruga, the large moun- tainous peninsula of Izu, an(^ to the r. the point of land called Mio-no-Matmbai'u, celebrated both in poetry and in art. It is covered with pine-trees, is low and sandy, and hence more pleasant to look at than to walk on. Still fur- ther to the r. lie the Kuno-zan liills, with the w^hite little sea-port town of Shimizu nestling at their base.

At Mio-no-MatMi^Hi" is lidil the scene of Hn-goiovin^ or The iJobe (»f Fe»itheiB, owe of the prettiest mul iiuiKt fnnoiful <)t the Jjipunese L>iic DrMiims (A<i no tttai). A lL-hei'iiii«ii hiudiii^ on this «truud linds a i-obe of fextlierH hnii^- ing to a pine-tree. hhiI is nbout to cany It off as tieMMue Imve, i»heii a beMiiti- ful fairy suddenly ai^pearw Hiid implores him to g-'ve it huv.k to her, lor th^itit is hers, MTkd with«mt it she cannot fly home to the Moon,; where s>ie is one of the attendants on the thirty monarchs who rule Unit sphere. At first the flshern.Mn retUMes to grant her request. Hh only does so when, After many tears and afron'ies of despair, ahe promises to dance for him o»e of the dances known only to the immortals. Draped in her featherj' robe, she dances

beneath the pine-trees on the beach, while- celestial musiu and an uneailhly frHgrance- 1111 the air. At last her wingx are &iUght by the breeze, and she soars heavenward,, past Mount Ashitaka, pii^t Fuji, tilL she is l(»st to view. '1 here is still a sniait shrine on Mio-uo-Matsubaru dedicated tO' this fairy.

The temple of Seih nji or Kiyomi'- dera at Okitsu, belonging to the Zen sect of Buddhists, merits a visit, partly for the sake of the view, partly for the temple itself and the temple grounds, which even the railway, though it cuts through them, has not entirely Spoilt. The very plain altar in the hondo — jv large hall paved with tiles — con- tains the funeral tablets of all the Shoguns of the Tokugawa dynasty. In a side temple are forty brilliantly coloured figures, three-fourths life- size, of Rakan — old, but restored in 1881. These were formerly kept- in a tea-house in the town, w^hich, becoming a favourite re- sort, In-ought in a considerable income to the p|riest&. This, how- ever, moved tnc towns-people to jealousy and dissatisfaction, for which reason the images were moved to their pi'esent site whein* money can no longer be made out of them. In the gi-ounds are 30O (formerly 500) stone imayes of Rakan. The creeping phun- trees (gwaryii-bai) in front of the temple are said to have been i>lante<^l by leyasu's own hand. Besides the temple proper, a suite of robms is shown, affording an example of the best style of Japanese domestic architecture. Built in I860 for the use of the Shogun lemochi, they have of late been twice oc- cupied by His Imperial Highness, the Crown Prince.

[Those who have an extra day to spare are strongly recom- mended to leave the train at Okitsu, sleep there, and go on by jinrikisha to Kiilid-zaii, re- joining the train at Shizuoka late the next afternoon. This excursion, which occupies from

Kuno'Zan.

261

7 to 8 hrs., is a real multum in parvo, — splendid views, su- perb temples, nearer ac- quaintance with Japanese town and country life off the beaten track. — ^The plan is to take a jinrikisha for the day with two men, and begin by visiting Sei- kenji, described above ; tlience through Bjm(7nn,Kyo-ya),one of those smaller Tokaido towns which the railway has para- lysed, and Shimizu, a neat bustling ^sea-port town ; and then strike inland to Tess/iwji, a ruined temple on a little hill called Fud<u*aku-san, 4 cho in height. Yamaoka Tetsutaro, writing-master to the present Hikado, collected funds for the restoration of this place ; but the money was squandered after his death, and the temnle is nothing, but the view sim- ply magnificent, reminding one of a Claude Lorraine. At the beholder's feet stretches a green carpet of rice-fields, with the town of Shimizu and the curious square enclosures in the adjacent sea, used as fish preserves to supply the tables of the inhabitants in stormy weather. The two promon- tories to the 1. are the Satta- toge and the point near Kam- bara, beyond which come Fuji, Ashitaka, and the Hakone range. The large peninsula of Izu extends the whole way round from 1. to r., like a g^igantic scythe forming the Gulf of Suruga, while much closer and smaller, making a bay within a bay, stretches the pine-clad promontory of Mio- no-Matsubara, which is from here seen to divide at the tip into three points like claws. Close to Tesshuji is another temple called Byugeji, noted in the vicinity for its sotetau ( Cycas revoluta) and prickly pears — ^the latter a great rarity

in Japan ; but the view, though good, is not comparable to that from Tesshiiji.

The way now leads back to the sea and along the sandy shore to the hamlet of Nekoya {Inn, Fukushima-ya) at the foot of Kuno-zan, one of a range of hills only some 500 ft. high, but fortress-like in steepness. Her© was the first burial-place of the great Shogun leyasu, and the shrines here erected in his honour were the originals of -^V^hich those at Nikko are but a more elaborate development. Travellers who are iinable to go to Nikko, can therefore ga- ther some idea of what the Nikko temples are like by visit- in cr Kuno-zan. According to some, Ieyasu*s body still lies here, only a single hair or some other minute portion having been transported to Nikko. The ascent to the temples is by a steep zigzag path cut in the living rock. A guide must be applied for at the shamusho, or

* temple office' near the top, on thel. The view over the sea from this temple office is glorious. The headlands seen hence are Tome-no-saki, Kanaya, and O- mae-zaki. The temples, though

* purified* to some extent by the pro- Shinto party 20 years ago, retain their Buddhist ornamentation. The wooden effigy of a sacred horse 1. is by Hidari Jingoro. Up a flight of steps hence, we come r. to the drum-tower, and 1. to the side of the five-storied pagoda removed by the * purifiers * as savouring too much of Bud- dhism. Above these again are r., the Kagura stage, the trea- sure-house or ' godown/ and a building formerly dedicated to the Buddhist god Yakushi, and now to the Shinto god Oyama- gui-no-Mikoto ; while 1. is the building where the sacred offer*

262

EoiUe 38, — The Tokaido,

ings are prepared. The oratory proper is red outside, black and gold within. Bound it, inside, are hung pictures of the Thirty-six Poetical Geniuses, and there is an elaborate border- ing of phoenixes and chrysan- themums. A final flight of steps behind the oratory leads up to the stone tomb, which is an octagonal monolith. The annual festival at Kuno-zan is lield on the 1 7th April. Services are also celebrated on the I7th of the other months. The tem- ple treasures are exposed to view in October, when the an- nual airing {mushi-hoshi) takes place. On leaving Kuno-zan, the road first follows the sea- shore and then turns inland, reaching Shizuoka in about 1 hr.]

Betweien Okitsu and

Ejlri {Inn, Kyo-ya), there is a view of Mio-no-Matsubara. After leaving Ejiri, the line turns inland to avoid the Kuno-zan hills.

Shizuoka (HoteU, *Daito-kwan,

foreign style ; Kiyo-kwan), formerly

called Sumpu, is the capital of the

prefecture of the same name and

of the province of Suruga. It

is a clean, airy, flourishing city,

noted for its manufactures of cheap

lacquer ware, delicate basket-work

in curious and beautiful shai>es, and

fine bamboo plaiting used to cover

egg-shell porcelain cups which are

brought from the province of Mino.

The tea produced at Ashikubo, a

vill. 2 ri distant, ranks second only

to that of Uji.

HistoricHlly, Shizuoka is celebrated chiefly as the plaoe where leyasu chose to «pend the evening of hiR life in learned leisure, leaving his son, Hidetada, to carry on the government at Yedo. Here for the first time many of the treasures of Japa- nese literature, which had hitherto existed onl^ in manuscript, were put into print, ghizuoka is now the plaoe of retiit^ment of the ex-8h5gun Keiki, who lives there in quiet seclusion as a private gentleman.

An afternoon is enough for the sights of Shizuoka, which con-

sist of the ruins of the former castle, and of two fine temples — Binzaiji and Sengen. All that remains of the Castle are tlie decaying walls and the moats. Within its enclosure stands the Prefecture, a hideous red brick: building. The Coui-t-house and. Normal School are outside the moat, on the S. side.

The Buddhist temple of Rinzaiji lies 8 cho away from the city to the W., at the foot of a range of wooded hills. It belongs to the Zen sect, and is noted for its connection with leyasu and for the number of objects of art which it contains. The little room of only 4fj mats (yo-jo-han), where le- yasu learnt how to write, is shown, as are several scrolls, screens, pieces of lacquer and porcelain, etc., pre- sented by him to the temple in his old age. There is also a thread- bare but still beautiful piece of embroidery presented by the Mikado Go-Nara (A.D. 1527-1557), and a number of kakemono by Kano Masa- nobu. Chin Nampin, and other old masters. In the Hondo is a painted statue of Imagawa Yoshimoto, younger brother to Ujiteru, founder of the temple. Another painted statue represents the 2nd abbot. The honzon is Amida, a black image with a gold background. In. a side chapel is preserved the wooden image of Marishi-ten, which le- yasu-:-who for all his political and military genius, was not devoid of the superstitions of his time — ^used constantly to carry about with him as a charm. The visitor will also be shown a small pagoda-shaped gilt revolving book-case containin|[^ a complete set of the edition of the Buddhist scriptures, printed for the first time with movable types in 1888. The Ist and 2nd October are the chief festival days at Binzaiji. /

The Temple of Sengen, which stands at the N. limit of the town, was built under the snperintendence

Shizxvoha,

263

of Okubo Hikozaemon, a personage famous in Japanese history as the minister and confidant of the Sho- gun leniitsu. Though chiefly dedi- cated to the worship of Ko-no-hana- jsaku-ya-hime, alias Sengen, the heantif ul Shinto goddess of Mount Fuji, it is constructed and decorated in the most ornate Buddhist style. Specially noteworthy are the wood- ^^.rvings. The grounds are now used as a public j^ark. Entering by two handsomely carved wooden 4^ates, the visitor finds himself in a large quadrangle, in the centre of which is a stage formerly used for the performance of kagura dances by young girls. The interior of the oratory proper ( go haiden no o- Uronm) is a hall 63 ft. by 33 ft. with large solid pillars of keyaki lacquered red, two* of which form at the same time the corner pillai's of the upper storey. The two "Central compartments of the ceiling are painted with dragons, one billed the Shihd no Ryo, or * Dragon of the Four Quarters,' because what- ever quarter ,of the compass he be viewed from he seems to glare down directly at the spectator ; the other, Happo no Ryo, or * Dragon of the Eight Quarters/ because his glance is directed to every point of the circle. The former of these 'is by Yusen Hogan, the latter by Kano Motonobu. Eight other com- paitments contain pictures of angels playing on musical instru- ments, also by painters of the Kano school. Two broad flights of steps behind the oratory lead up to a building containing two •chapels, one dedicated to Sengen, the other to Onamuji. The two chapels are connected by a room in which a nightly watch was formerly kept by retainers of the Tokugawa family. Specially noticeable are the carvings on the gates leading to these twin cha- pels. One set represents a lioness with her cub, and on a second panel her royal mate, both sur-

rounded by peonies, the king of flowers, as the lion is the king of beasts. Another set represents hawks with pine-trees. Eound the chapel itself are carvings of the pine-tree, bamboo, and plum-blos- som by Hidari Jingoro. The crest of a fan of feathers is that of the goblin who was god of Mount Oyama and father of the goddess of Fuji.

Near the main quadrangle is a smaller building called the Sosha, formerly dedicated to Marishi- ten and now to the Shinto god Yachi-hoko-no-kami. It is the newest of all the buildings, and the decorations are therefore in a better state of preserva- tion. In the curved roof of the porch a phoenix carved out of a single block of wood is very fine ; and all round, above the architrave, runs a series of delicate little groups representing the Twenty-four Para^ ,gons of Filial Piety.

The stone lanterns in the grounds were presented by various Daimyos and Hatamotos.—fBeyond the Mari- shi-ten temple, a broad flight of 105 stone steps leads up to the Oku-no-in, or innermost shrine, the chief thing to be seen whence-is s good view of the town.

The best excursion from Shi- zuoka is that by jihrikisha to Kuno-zan (3 ri) ; see pp. 260-2.

On leaving Shizuoka, we enter on the least interesting portion of the Tokaido route, there being little worth describing the whole way on to Nagoya, a distance of 115 mUes. The line for the most part ceases to skirt the sea, and runs over a flat country with low hills on one or both sides, or else among rice fields which seem intenninable, es- pecially after entering the province of Owari. Spurs of the central range forming the backbone of the country are indeed often seen far away to the r. At other times the way lies through cuttings, or be-

264

Bouts 38, — The Tokaidu.

tween clumps of bamboos and other small trees that shut out all distant view. The chief points of this 115 m. run are as follows : — Just outside SMzuoka we cross the Abekawa close to its mouth, and obtain ai)ret- ty glimpse of the sea with the small promontory of Kuno-zan and the large promontory ot I»u, before pass- ing through two long tunnels. The Oigawa is crossed before reaching Kanayn. Like all the rivers on this coast, it has a bed out of pro- portion to the small volume of water that generally flows down it, the bed being nearly a mile broad, while the actual stream is not more than some 50 yds. except in :flood-time.

_In pre-railway days, the passage of the Oigawa was one of the most exciting portions of the journey along- the Tokaido. No ferrj'-hoats could be used on account of the swiftness of the current, and travellers "were carried across on small hand-phit- ^orms called rendni. The naked coolies who bore these aloft always chose the deepest parts of the stream, in order to impress their fares with a sense of the peril of the undertaking, and thus obtain the largest possible pourholre.

Kakegawa is not remarkable except for being the station where those must alight who desire to ■visit the Temple of Akiha, some 12 ri inland, of which the first 6 ri as far as the vill. of Mikura are prac- ticable for jinrikishas. The visi- tor may conveniently sleep at Sakashita, some 4^ ri further on. Sit the base of the mountain on which the temple stands. The ascent, locally computed at 50 chb, is probably less. The last part of it commands an extensive and beautiful view, including the wide plain of T<3t6mi with the sea be- yond, towards which the broad white bed of the river Tenryu is seen winding its way.

The temple of AViha enjoys a great reputation for sanctity, and is visited annually by crowds of pilgrims. Unfortu- nately for the tourist of artistic and anti- quarian tastes, all the beautiful Buddhist buildings in which Kwannon and other deities had for centuries been invoked, were destroyed by fire on the occasion of the

great yearly festival in 1875, and the- present temple was afterwards erected i» the bare, uninteresting style of * Pui-e- Shinto.' It has been dedicated to Kagu— tsuchi-no-Mikoto, who is regarded by soiiie- as the God of Fire, but is more correctly explained as the Oocl of Summer Heat.

Before reaching Hamamatsu the- train crosses the Tenryii-gawa, whose celebrated rapids form the subject of Route *35. The Tenryii is the first of the three great rivers from which the province of Mi- kawa, which the line here traverses, takes its name, the other two being theOgawa (also called Oya- gawa or Ohira-gawa) on this side of the station of Okazaki, and the^ Yahagi-gawa just beynd the same station.

._ Haniamatsil ( Inns, * Hana-ya,, Ogome-ya) is the only place be- tween Shizuok^ and Nagoj'a where the journey can comfortably be broken. The town, which is clean and bvistling, derives a peculiar appearance from the use of long projecting eaves which cause the houses to look as if about to tumble forward into the street. A few moments may be devoted to inspecting the temples of Gosha Myojin- and 8uwa Myojin, which even in their present abandonment and decay sliow plainly to the dis- cerning eye of the artist that they were once among the most elaboi*ata specimens of decorative art in Japan. A whole day could well be spent in sailing about the Lagoon (Hamana no Mizu-umi) just beyond Hama- matsu, of whose beauties the rail-^ way affords only a passing glimpse, and in watching the fishermen's curious device whereby the tinkling of a bell indicates the presence of fish in their nets. One might lunch at the vill. of Shinjo on the fui-ther shore. The railway crosses the mouth of the lagoon on a long series of dykes and bridges, whence the roar of the breakers of the Pacific can be distinctly heard.

Though called a lake in Japanese, this lagoon has now a narrow entrance aboa4

Nagoya,

265

<00 yds. across, fovmed in the year 149fl, "when an earthquake broke down *lie sand- spit that had previously separated the fresh water from the sea. The province of Totoiui derives its name from this lake, ■which was Ciilled Tdtomi. a corruption of 7'0-tsu-awa'umi, * the distant f onming sea,' in contradistinction to Lake Biwa, named <'hika-tifu-awa-uvn^ *the near foaming sea,' which gave its name to the province of Omi.

Between Wasliizn and Toyolia-

slli a fine bronze image of Kvvan- non, 10 ft. high and dating from the year 1765, is seen perched r. on a pinnacle of rock. Between' (joyii, where the line again touches the shore, and Kaiiingori there is a pretty view of the sea, of the islets in the Bay of Toyohashi, and of the mountains of the provinces of Shima, Ise, arid Iga beyond. An •endless succession of rice-fields leads to

Nagoya {Inns, Shinachu, also called H6tel du Progr^s, foreign : *Shiikin-ro).

This flourishing commercial city, the largest on the Tokaido, capital of the Province of Owari and of the prefecture of Aichi, was formerly the seat of the Princes of Owari, whose family was closely allied to tliat of the Tokuguwa Bhoguns, the founder of the house of Owari havmg been a son of leyusu. Their fief was rated at 550,000 hokn of rice, and the Owari's were one of the ' Tliree Aueust Families * [Go San-ke)^ entitled to furnish a suc- cessor to the Shogun's tlirone in default of an heir. Their castle, which is still one of the wonders of Japan, was ■erected in 161f»by twenty great feudal lords, to serve as the residence of leyasn's son. la the early years of the present r/fgime it ■ffaa handed over to the Alilitary Depart- ment; and the beautiful decorations of the Prince's dwelling apartments suffered, as <lid so much else in Japan, from the almost incredible vandalii<iii and vulgar stupidity of that period, — common soldiers, or ofli<'er8 as ignorant as the.v, being allowed to deface the priceless wall-paintings of a Tan-yti, a Motonobu, and a Mat'ihei. This desecra- tion is now happily put an end to, though much irreparable damage has been done. The Castle is indeed still the head-quar- ters of the Nagoya Garrison; but the bar- racks now only occupy the outer enceinte, the actual cit^idel and the apartments being kept as national monuments and Rhow -places. The two golden dplpliins {kin «»» 8fiac?ii-koko), which can be seen (flittering all over the city from the top of the flve-storeyed donjon [tenshu)^ were made in 1610 at the cost of the celebrated general, Kato Kiyomasa, who also built

the keep. One of thera was sent to the Vienna Exhibition of lb73, and on its way back was wrecked in the Messageries Maritimes Steamer *Nil.' Having been recovered with great difficulty, it was finally restored to its original position, much to the satisfaction of the citizens. Tlie golden dolphins mea«ure 87 ft- in height, and are valued at $180,000.

Nagoya is noted for its manufac- ture of porcelain, cloisonne, and fans. The principal dealers are :

Porcelain. — Matsumura, Hirako- ya, Takito.

Cloiso7in4. — Morimoto, Honda, Takcuchi.

Fans, — Daikoku-ya.

Silk-mcrcers. — Ito, Daimaru.

There are many lesser but good shops for all the above articles ; also several bazaars (ktva7ik6ba) for articles of general utility. Five or six large cotton-mills have been started of late years, and the em- broidering of handkerchiefs has taken a considerable place among the local industries.

Theatre. — Suehiro-za.

The Museum contains a coUectioa of the various manufactures of the prefecture.

It is worth stopping a day at Nagoya for the sake of the Castle, which cannot be * done ' merely between trains, as the traveller's passport and visiting card must be sent through the hotel to the Pre- fectural Office, and several hours may elapse before the necessary permit is received. Meantime one may visit Nagoya' s second greatest sight — the Higashi Hongwanji Temple — the Museum,and the minor temples described below. The evening may be agreeably whiled away by going the round of the bazaars, and by visiting the enclosure of Shimpukuji (commonly known as Osu Kwannon), where devout re- ligious exercises and penny peep- shows may be seen in amusing proximity.

The Castle (O Shiro). — The space between the inner and outer inoats, now containing extensive barracks and parade-grounds, was formerly

266

Eotite 38, — The Tokaido,

occupied by quarters for the Prince's samurai or retainers,* of- fices civil and military, etc. Pass- ing into the inner enclosure over a moat now dry and used to keep tame deer in, the traveller is first shown through the Apart- ments,— a beautiful wreck, for mats and furniture are gone and the walls are considerably defaced, but very fine nevertheless. The slidiug screens (fusntna) between the rooms, the alcoves (tokononia), and the wooden doors between the dif- ferent sets of Apartments are all decorated with paintings of flowers, birds, etc., chiefly by artists of the Kano school, such as Eishin, Moto- nobu, and Tan-yu. One room has cherrj'-blossoms and pheasants by Tosa-no-Mitsuoki. Another — the most attractive of all — has multi- tudinous scenes of popular life by Ukiyo Matahei. One speciallj' gorgeous apartment, decorated by Tan-yu with ideal Chinese scenery, "was reserved for the use of the Sho- gun when he came to visit the Prince his kinsman. Observe the difierence of height between the inner and outer portion of this zoom, — the former (jodan) being for the Shogun himself, the latter (gedan) for those inferior persons who were graciously admitted to an audience. The raimna (ventilating panels) of this room have exquisitely faithful carvings of a crane and tor- toise and of a -cock perched on a drum, by Hidari Jingoro, who also carved the flowers and birds in certain other rooms. Leaving these apartments, one comes to a much humbler suite brought from Nobu- naga's castle at Kiyosu, and is then led into the donjon or keep, a gloomy five -storied building, all of stone without, but furnished with wooden staircases within. The well at the bottom, called Ogoii-siiif or *the Golden Water,' was dug by Kato Kiyomasa. The fifth storey commands an extensive view — the town of course, the sea, the im- juense plain of Owari and Mino laid

out in rice-fields, and, limiting the- horizon, the mountains of Ise, Iga^ Omi, Echizen, Hida, ShinshQ, and Tutomi.

No fee is accepted by the custo- dian of the Castle.

Higashi Hongwaiiji.

Tftis wonderful Buddhist temple, whose- exterior and interiur are both equally ^rand, dates in it8 actual shape froia the- beginning of the present century. Iii mediaeval times a castle occupied its sit^^ whence the castle-like walls that still surronnd the enclosure. Oh the occasiotk of the combined military and naval manoErn— vres at Xagoya in 1890, the apartments were occupied by H. M. the Mikado.

The two storied gatehouse, a- magnificent structure in wood, has- three portals, decorated with floral arabesques in relief on the lintel and posts, and the gates have scrolls and open-work diapers, with solid bronze plates binding the framework together, the whole in excellent taste and style. On the further side of a spacious court rises the loft}' main building, which looks, two-storied, an effect pro- duced by the exterior colonnade having a roof lower than that of tlie main structure. The interior measures 120 ft. in length by 108- ft. in depth, and is divided longi- tudinally into three parts, that in front being for the use of ordinary worshippers, the centre for the con- gregation on special occasions, and the innermost being the naijin, or chancel. This latter is divided into- three compartments, the central one being occupied by the sJutmi-daii^ a platform on which stands a hand- some gilt shrine containing an image of Amida about 4 ft. high. Both the shmni-dan and the table in front are enriched with small painted carvings, producing a glori- ous effect. L. of the chief slirine is a smaller one, containing a xx)r- trait of the founder of the sect, taken from the effigy in the metropolitan temple at Kyoto. In the ramvia along the front of the tiaijiyi are gilt open-work carvings of angels, with gilt carv'ings of the peacock and

Nagoya.

267

phcenix in the kaeru^mata above. The heavy beams of the ceiling are supported by excellent carvings of lotus-flowers and leaves. In some of the kaeni-mata over these beams are spirited carvings of conven- tional lions. ' The ceiling itself is unpainted, and divided into coffers about 3 ft. square. The compartments r. and 1. of the altar have gilt coppered ceilings. In the kacrurinata of the external <x>lounade are well-conceived groups of supernatural beings — Gama Sen- nin with his frog, Kinko riding on the carp, Koan on the tailed tortoise, O-Shiko riding on his crane, Ka- Shinjin administering medicine to the dragon, the umbrella miraculous- ly flying back to Shoiohi through the air, and two carrying baskets of fish. The series is continued round the sides by the crane, the lion, and the flying dragon. As usual in Hongwanji temples, there is another building called the jiki-do, connected with the main building by a gal- lery resembling a bridge. Though much less elaborate than the main altar, the altar of the jiki-do is yet a fine blaze of gold. K. and 1. of the central image of Amida, are some charming gold sliding screens representing mountain scenery. The apartments of the temple contain several kakemonos and other works of art, which are, however, generally stowed away in a godown. In front of the main gate is an avenue of drooping cherry-trees {shidare- zakura), which are very pretty in April.

The remaining temples of Nagoya are much inferior. The following may be mentioned : —

Eikokuji (close to the Higashi Hongwanji), in the courtyard of which is a stone with the imprint of Buddha's feet. They seem to have been in proportion to his stature, which legend Axes at 16 ft. On the soles are representations of the wheel of the law, fishes, etc.

Nishi Hongwanjiy not to be com- pared with the Higashi Hongwanji

for size and beauty. In the kaeni- matu above the altar are groups of the Four-and-Twenty Paragons of Filial Piety.

Nanatmi'dcra^ the interior walls of which are gilt and decorated with good paintings of angels. The large- bronze image on the verandah re- presents either Dainichi or Amida — which of the two is not quite certain.

Osti, Kiuannmi (properly Shim- pukuji), already alluded to as a popular resort. In front of the altar screen are hung, for the use of worshippers, copies of a Buddhist scripture — the 26th chapter of the Myoho BeiigQ Kyd — which recites the praises of the Goddess Kwannon. This temple possesses the famous manuscript of the Kojiki known to students of Japanese antiquity as the Shimpiiknji'bon,

Go Uyaku Rakan (properly Dai- t-yuji). It is ■ worth applying to the custodian for admittance to the gallery behind, where are kept five hundred images of Buddha's chief disciples, mostly about 2 ft. high, all brightly painted, and all diflerent. Some are smiling, some are solemn, some are fierce, some stupid-looking, some have a super- cilious air, some an air of smug self-satisfaction, some few are lying down, others are praying, others again have their arms extended in the attitude of benediction, one has three eyes, one holds a tiger-cub in his arms, others ride on horses, elephants, phoenixes, and so ou almost ad infinitum. No wonder the Japanese say that among the Five Hundred Rakan, everj^ specta- tor can find the likeness of his own father by dint of a little searching.

Nagoya, like most other large towns, possesses a number of new, uninteresting buildings in the style or no style known in the Japan of to-day as * foreign.' Such are the Prefectural Office, the Post and Telegraph Office, the Hospital, the Normal School, the Court Houses, etc.

268

Eoute 38. — The Tokaido.

The only excursion to be recom- mended in the neighbourhood of Nagoya is to the potteries of Seto between 5 and 6 ri distant. See Route 36.

From Nagoya on to Kusatsu the railway line desert^s the old Tokaido, and, though called the Tokaido Railway, really follows the Naka- Kendo. Quitting Nagoya, the train wends on through more and ever more rice-fields, with blue moun- tains far ahead, somewhat to the 1. They are the mountains dividing the provinces ^rOwari and ^lino from those of Omi and Ise. Fourteen miles out of Nagoya, the line crosses the Kisogawa, the river whose upper course forms so beautiful a portion of the Nakasendo, and which is picturesque even here near its mouth.

Glfn (IniiSf * Tamai-ya, Tsuno- kuni-ya) is an important place, and capital of the prefecture of the same name, which includes the two provin- ces of Mino and Hida. On a conical hill named Inaba-yama, E. of the town, stand the remains of a castle built by the great warrior Ota Nobunaga. Raw silk and the silk of the wild silkwonn are produced in large quantities in the neigh- bourhood, most of "it being woven into crape. In this the glittering threads of the wild silk, which takes the dye in a less degree than that of the ordinary silkworm, are intro- duced to form the pattern. The mon-chirimen woven in this manner is a very handsome fabric.

In the summer-tmie it may be worth staying over a night at (jrifu, in order to see an extremely curious method of fishing with the help of cormorants on the River Nagara. The traveller is referred for a des- cription of this to the article entitled Cormorant Fishing in ' Things Japanese.' On nearing

Ognki (InnSj Kyomaru-ya near the station ; Tama-ya), the castle of the former Daimyo, with one turret in fairly good preservation, is

seen 1. of the line. An expeditioxi. may be made from Ogaki to the waterfall of Tord-ga-taki, 70 ft. high, distant 3 ri among the hills. Close to it fossil ferns are found. The cascade can also be approached from either of the next two stations, Tarni and Seki-ga-liara. Here the long, weary journey across the plain terminates, and the Tokaido Railway again enters diversified scenery, as it plunges among the hills that enclose beautiful Lake Biwa.

Seki-^-hara takes its nfline, whicb means literally *Moor of the Barrier,* from the barrier of Fuwa {Futca no seki) establisbecl at thi8 spot in A.D. 673 by the Ii^penr Tenimu, it bavin}? been a JHpHne«« custom from the earliest period down to the begin- niD? of the present reign to bani{)er free eoDirnunieation throughout the country by means of bHrriers near the Ciipital, wliidi none misbt pass without a special permit. Seki-ga-bara is celebrated in Japmese history as the scene of a det-if^ive battle fou!?Iit in the year 1600 between Iey.'.8n aad Bideyori, son of the ^eut Tlideyoshi, in which leyasu triumphed. His camp at Seki-ga'hara was on a level piece of ground among the hills on the 1. side of the rotid, near a hamlet chilled Nogami-mura.

Between Seki-ga-hara and Na^aoka the gradient is steep, the line being led up a narrow valley opening out on a small plain devoted to the cultivation of the mulberry- tree. The tall bare mountain fre- quently seen looming up to the r. during this portion of the journey is Ibuki-yama (about 4,300 ft.), one of the ' Seven High Mountains * of Central Japan, and noted in the early Japanese pharmacopoeia for its wealth of medicinal plants.

The 'Seven Higli_ Mountains* are Hiei- zan, Hira-yarna in Ouii, Ibuki-yatna, Kim- pu-zan (oi Omine) near Yoshino, Atago- san in Yamasliiro, Touomine, and Kazn- raki-yama.

Passing among pretty, pine-clad hills we reach

Maibara {Inny Itsutsu-ya at the station), whence all the way on to Baba, the^ station for the important town of Otsu, the line runs along the basin of Lake Biwa, though unfortunately not near enough to the shore to allow of many glimpses of the lake being obtained. The

Weatrni Section of Raihcai/.

269

^hole scenery is, however, pretty — a,nd pretty in a way of its own. Quite close, to the 1., is the range of hills forming the Southern rim of the Lake Biwa basin ; far awaj to the r., in the dim distance, are the blue mountains enclosing the lake ■on the N., while immediately on either side of the line, is a fair -cultivated plain. At

Hikoiie (InnSj Kaku-raku-tei, Ma- tsu-ya) the former Daimyo's castle is seen r. on a wooded hill. Before reaching

!Notogawa, the rivers Serigawa, Inukami-gawa, and Echigawa are crossed. The cone of Mikami-yama, also called Mukade-yama, shaped like Fuji but tliickly wooded, begins to peep up from behind a nearer range of hills before reaching

Kasatsil. Between this place and Baba, the most striking view on the whole Tokaido W. of Shizuoka is obtained on crossing the long bridge that spans the Setagawa, the lake opening out beautifully for a few minutes. From

Baba or Otsu (Inn, Minarai- tei, foreign style), the line passes through a tunnel under Osaka-yania (nothing to do with the city of D- saka), before reaching the small station of

Otatil, where it emerges on a narrow valley. The hills are covered with that thick growth of pine-trees which is characteristic of all the country round about Kyoto.

[For further details concerning the portion of the Tokaid > Route^ lying between ISIaibara and Otani, see Route 44, en- titled Lake Biica.]

Passing through thQ„stations of Tniiiashina and Inari, the train enters the old capital,

Kyoto, fully described in Route 43, after which it crosses a wide plain and passes through several minor stations before reaching the great commercial town of

Osaka* described in Route 42. From Osaka onwards, the hills in

the distance to the r. begin to draw in, the broad fruitful plain rapidly contracts until it becomes a mere strip fringing the seashore, and at the station of

Nisliiiioiiiiya there begins to rise r. the screen* of somewhat baxaren hills that lielp to give Kobe its good climate by protecting that part of the coast from wintry blasts. The high land seen in tlie distance across the water is not, as might be supposed, an island, but a portion, of the province oE Izumi. The three tunnels passed through on this sec- tion of the journey are remarkable as going under river-beds. Owing to the proximity of the neigh- bouring mountains to the sea, quan- tities of sand and stones are swept down whenever tlie streams are swollen by rain. As a consequence of this, the river-beds tend con- stantly to raise themselves more and more above the general level of the country, which they tra- verse like dykes. Occasionally of course a dyke breaks down, and then there is an inundation with attendant loss of life and property. Soon after passing through

Sniniyosli], an insignificant place not to be confounded with the well- known Sumiyoshi near Sakai, the train runs in to

Saiinoiiiiya, and the long jour- ney is at an end, Sannomiya being the station for the foreign settle- ment of Kobe. To go on one station further to what is technically called

Kobe, would carry the traveller past his- destination into the native town. It must therefore be distinctly borne in mind that if bound for Kobe, one must book only as far as Sannomiya.

[For Kobe and Neighbourhood, sec Route 41.]

270

Route 39, — The Xakasendu.

ROUTE 39.

The Nakasexdo.

Itinerary of the Nakasendo from

Yokohama to Gifu.

YOKOKAWA to :— Ri. Chd. M.

Sakamoto 1 31 4^

KARUIZAWA . . . . 2 31 7

Kutsukake 1 10 3

Oiwake 1 6 2f

Otai 1 12 3J

Iwamurata 1 3 2|

Shionada 1 16 3^

Yawata 23 1^

Mochizuki 33 2^

Ashida 1 9 3

Nagakubo 1 13 3J

Wada 2—5

SHIMO-NO-SUWA 5 23 13f

Shiojiri ».... 2 30 7

Seba 1 28 4^

Motoyama 28 2

Kiekawa 2 — 5

Narai 1 29 4 J

Yabuhara 1 12 3J

Miyanokoshi 1 35 4|

FUKUSHIMA.... 2 11 5|

Agematbu 2 11 5|

Suwara 3 7 7f

Nojiri 1 29 4^

Midono 2 11 5$

Tsumago 1 8 3

Magome 1 34 4|

Ochiai 1 7 3

NAKATSU-GAWA 1 — 2^

Oi 2 25 6^

Okute 3 13 8i

Hosokute 1 26 4J

Mitake 2 33 7

Fushimi 18 3

Ota 1 32 ^

Unuma 2 10 5^

Kano 4 7 lOJ

GIFU 24 1|

Total 68 30 168

The Nakasendo, or * Centrnl 'Monntnin Bood,' is so named in contradistinction to the 'I'dkaido, or ^Eaptem bea Road,' and the Hokurokudd, or ' Northern Land Road,' "between which it occupies a middle posi- tion. It runs from Tokyo to Kyoto, pass- inpr through the provinces of Musaslii, Kdtsuke, Bhinshtt, Mino, Omi, and Ya-

mashiro. HRke road seems to hare been originMlly ctrnftnicted eiirly in the 8th centory. Legendary history 8tMt««, how- ever, that in the reign of the £mperor Keiko (A.D. 71-130), his 8'>n, Prince Tamato-take, crossed over the Usui Pass during his conquest of Eastern Japan, sn^esting the inference that some Kind of track was believed to hare existed there from the very earliest times, 'ilie railway route closely follows that of the ancient highway over the well-cultivated plain of Tokyo, and is flat lind uninteresting UII Takasaki is left behind.

Though, properly speaking, the Nakasendo nins the whole way from Tokyo to Kyoto, the jwrtion be- tween Yokokawa and Gifu is the only one now usually done by road, the Tokyo-Takasaki-Karuizawa Rail- way, described in Route 12, having replaced the Nakasendo across the plain of Tokyo, and the final flat piece between Gifu and Kyoto being alsa now travelled over by the Tokaido Railway (see Route 38) . The distance between Yokokawa and Gifu may be accomplished in 6 or 7 days. Jin- rikishas are practicable as far as the Wada-toge, after which point it is only possible to use them on the flat portions of the road, unless one takes three or four coolies to each jinrikisha. The distance byroad may be shortened by taking train to Ta- naka on the Karuizawa-Naoetsu Railway, IJ hr. from Karuizawa. Travellers coming from the direc- tion of Naoetsu and desirous of joining the Nakasendo, should alight at Ueda (see Route 32). Those coming from the Kyoto direction are advised lo engage jinrikishas at Gifu, and to take them right through to Yokokawa. At Yokokawa it is more difficult to make such an ar- rangement for the journey to Gifu.

The Nakasendo traverses moun- tainous, sparsely cultivated districts, remote from populous centres, and the peasantiy along the route have a pinched and poverty-stricken ap- pearance. The accommodation, however, is fairly good. Milk, beer, potatoes, etc., may be procured at several places. The best time for travelling along the Nakasendo is the summer or autumn. Between

Fratn Karuizaiva to Shiuw-nO'Siiwa,

271

January and April this route is not ^ to be recommended, on account of the snow — especially on the passes.

For the portion of the road as far as Karuizawa, passing through Sa- kamoto (Inn, Kodake-ya), see p. 142.

After passing through

Kiitsukake {Inn, Masu-ya), and OiiTake^i^m,Nakamura), the latter a place once possessing some im- portance, but now ruined by the railway having diverted the traffic from the highway, the Nakasendo makes a sharp turn to tlio 1. and gradually descends the grassy base of Asama-yama.

[For the ascent of this volcano see p. 144.]

The ample sweep of the moun- tain is calculated to impress the beholder, and the walk over the springy turf is most exliilarating. Large blocks of lava that lie scat- tered about in all directions attest the violence of the eruption which occurred in 17B3, when Oiwake and other places in the vicinity were completely destroyed. The track of the Karuizawa-Naoetsu Railway is crossed about 1 ri after leaving Oi- wake.

Iwamnrata (Inn, Wakamatsu- ya) was formerly the seat of a small Daimyo, Naito Wakasa-no-Kami.

[At this place a road branches off 1. to Kofu \'ih the Tsuyutare Pass. See p. 138] .

Beyond Shioiiada the road crosses the Chikuma-gawa, also called Shi- nano-gawa, which, flowing north- ward, becomes one of the great rivers of Japan and falls into the sea at Niigata. Between Yawata and

Mocliiziiki (Inn, Kawachi-ya), a fine view of Yatsu-ga-take aud the mountains E. of jMatsumoto is obtained from a hill called Uryii- zaka. From ^lochizuki the road giadually rises over undulating country formed by the spurs of Tateshina-yama to Ashita, a poor Till, at the foot of the Kasatori- toge. The ascent of this pass, 3,200

ft. above the sea, is short and easy, and from the tea-house at the top,, the traveller can enjoy a magnificent prospect. The summit of Asama- yama rises grandly above Gimba- yama, with lesser heights stretching away in a line to the 1., while below lies the wide moor that has just been traversed. At the foot of the pass on the other side (650 ft. down), is the village of Nagnkiibo {Inn, Yamazaki-ya). Wada {Inns, Hagawa-ya, Nagai) lies at the N.E. foot of the pass of the same name {Wada-tdgv), the longest and highest en the Kaka- sendd, being 5,300 ft. above the level of the sea. Snow lies on it up to the end of April, but is seldom so deep as to block the road* Rather than stay overnight at Wada, which is often crowded in summer, most travellers prefer pushing on to the cluster of tea- houses (Kiso-ya and Tsuchi-ya are the best) collectively known as

Higashi Mochiya, 6 cho from the top of the pass. The glorious^ view from the summit may best be enjoyed by climbing one of the hills to tlie r. of the road,, involving ^ lir. delay. To the N.E., rises Asama-yama ; to the S.E. Tateshina and Yatsu-ga-take ; S.W. the eye rests upon the basin of Lake Suwa; further to the W. stand Koma-ga-take and Ontake,. while to the N.W. a great portion of the Hida-Shiushu rauge is visible. The descent to Shimo-no-Suwa soon leads to a dull valley between hills of no great height, every avail- able nook of which has been brought under cultivation. The stone monu- ment passed on the way is to the memory of six warriors who, sur- prised here by the enemy, com- mitted harakiri rather than sur- render. This was in December, 1863. Shiiiio-no-Sinva {Iniis, *Maru-ya, KikyO-ya) lies in a large basin, the greater part of which is occupied by Lake Suwa. It is celebrated for its hot-springs, the principal of which, called }yata-no-yu, are

272

Route 39. — The Xalcasefido.

situated at the top of the street where the Nakaseodo turns to the r. and the Kosliu Kaido branches off to the 1. The baths are very <;lean ; the temperature, 113°.9 F. According to the inhabitants these waters contain silver. Of the two other principal sources in the vill., one called Ko-yUj which contains alum, has the high ^ temperature of 145°.4 ; the other, called Tanga-ytiy has a temperature of 114°.8. As in the case of many Japanese spas, Shimo-no-Suwa is apt to be noisy of an evening. In the day time it is busy with the silk industr5\ The only buildings of any interest at Shimo-no-Suwa are two temples dedicated to the Shinto goddess Yasaka-iri-hime, one of which is •called HarU'tw-viiyay or the Spring Temple, the other, Aki-iio-vm/a, or the Autumn Temple. In the grounds of the latter stands a cryptomeria remarkable for its gigantic size. A quarter of an hour's walk taJces one to the lake which is almost circular in form, having a diameter of about 1 ri. Its depth is said to be 35 ft.

Lake Suva freezes oyer most winters so solidly that lienvily laden pack horses can cross over to Kami-no-Svwa^ near tlie S. E. extremity of the iHke, "with perfect safety. U'he inhabitAnts do not, however, venture upon the i<'e until it has cracked across, believing? this to be a sipn from heaven. 8ome attribute the ernckingr to the foxes. Durinjf the winter the flj<hennen make holes in tlie ice, through which tliey insert their nets and contrive to take a ctjnsider- able quantity of lish, especially caip. From the JS. end of Lake Suwa issues the TennQ-pawa, wliich flows into the sea on the Tokaido. For the descent of the flue rapids of this river see p. 240.

From Shimo-no-Suwa the Naka- sendo runs for some distance through rich rice-fields extending to the edge of the lake. To tlie foot of the Shiojiri-toge is a distance of 21 cho. On looking back, views of Fuji are obtained from different points. The ascent of the pass is at first gentle, and in the steeper part there is a well-graded jinriki- sha road. But pedestrians will do best to take the older and steeper

path, which saves time and af- fords finer views. The finest view^ of all is to be obtained from a slight eminence to the 1. of the road at the top, 3,340 it. above the sea. Below lies the lake with villages studded over the adjacent plain. Of the high mountains that almost com- pletely encircle the lake basin, Ya- tsu-ga-take is the most prominent. To the r. of the dip at the far-end of the lake, a portion of Fuji is seen behind the nearer range. The sharp peak further round to the r. is the K5shu Koma-ga-take, and further away rises the long summit of Shirane-san. A little further back, the top of On take is just visible- Just behind are the lofty peaks of the range separating the plain of ^Matsumoto from the province of Hida. The descent on the other side is very easy. Passing through

Sliiojiri (Inn^ Kawakami), Seba> and ,

Moloyama (Inn, Hanamura-ya), we come to some charming scenery on the banks of the Saigawa, and follow that river to

Nie^awrt, where the inn kept by by Okuya Dembei is the most com- fortable to be found anywhere on this route. Niegawa marks the commencement of the Kiso district, watered by the Kisogawa, which is famous for its beauty. Hence the alternative name of the Kiso Kaido, by which the Nakasendo is some- times mentioned. After Niegawa, the road crosses the river to Hira- sawa, where cheap and useful lacquered articles are made in large quantities, and then re-crosses to

Narai [Inns, Echigo-ya, Tokkuri- ya), 3,330 ft. above the sea at the foot of the ToiH-toge. This pass, though short, is steeper than those hitherto crossed on the Naka- sendo ; the height of the summit is 4,200 ft., the distance from Narai to that point being 22 chb. f^rom the top, the eye wanders over the valley through which the upper waters of the Kisogawa fiow. The foliage is very fine, — beeches, horse-chestnuts^

Tlie Kiso Valley, Ftihtshima, . Agematsn,

27a

walnut-trees, and maples, which in autumn blaze with every tint of red and yellow.

The name of this pass is derived from the torii on the top, dedicated to Ontnke, the summit of which luountaiu is visible hence on a clear day. Strange as it may seetn, two battles were foug-lit oa this spot in the 16th century, between some of the rival chieftains who, during that period of Anarchy, shared Eastern Japan amongst ^em. From the base of Asama-ynma up to this point, the prevalent formation is stratified rock which breaks up into small sharp pieces extremely uncomfortable to the feet, while beyond it is chiell/ granite 'vrhich, when disintegrated, forms au excel- lent material for road-making.

The descent to Vabliliara (Inns, Xawakami, Kawashima-ya), 8,150 ft. above the sea, is by an easy gradient. The peasants, both male and female, of this neighbourhood wear a divided skirt of a peculiar cut. They also use an odd kind of spade, heavy and two-handled. The diggers stand opposite each other, one delving, the other using the second handle to assist in raising the blade for the next blow. Good potatoes are grown hereabouts, and are largely used, not only for food, but for the manufacture of spirits (sJidchu).

[From Yabuhara a road follows the r. bank of the Kisogawa nearly up to its source, and passes over into the province of Hida.]

The road now follows the 1. bank of the Kisogawa, crossing to the r. bank at a point where tlie valley contracts and. begins to wind about. After passing

MiyAiiokoshi (Imi, Tonari-ya), there is a fine view near the village ' of Ueda of the Shinshii £oma-ga-take, which consists of several rugged peaks rising to an altitude of over 10,000 ft. The lower hill in front is called Suisho- zan, from the fact that rock-crystals are found in it. All the avail- able ground near ^liyanokoshi is planted with mulberry trees. Most of the silk produced finds its way to the looms of Nagahama in Omi.

Fliklishima [Inn, Suimei-ro, pic- turesquely situated) is a good-sized town extending along both banks of the Kisogawa. The portion of the route between Fukushima and Agematsu surpasses all the rest of the Nakasendo both in charm and grandeur. Indeed, either Fuku- shima or

Agematsn (Inny Hakuichi-ya) would be a delightful place for the lover of mountain scenery to stay at for a few days. Both Ontake and Koma-ga-take • can be conveni- ently ascended from these points. (See Koute 34.)

The next object of interest on the road is the monastery of Rhi- zetiji, from the grounds of which a steep path descends to a plat- form of rock known as Nemme no tokOy or ' the Bed of Awakening.'

This curions name is derived from a local tradition which avers tliat Urashima, the Japanese Rip Van Winkle (see Ete. 47),. awoke in this spot from his long' dream. Others, more matter-of-fact, explain the name to mean that tlie view * wakes up,' that is, startles those who come upon it.

Besides the * platform,' there are other rocks, precipitous and pic- turesque, to which fanciful names have been given, such as the Screen Rock, th6 Mat Rock, etc. The native guide-bbok says, * The wonderful scenery at this spot surpasses even the most magnificent prospects in other parts. Its noble character can scarcely be fully appreciated by the mind or adequately described in language ! '

The Namcgawa is next crossed by a bridge from which there is a fine view of Koma-ga-take up the gorge. A little beyond this on the 1., just before reaching Ogiwara, is the Cascade of Ono, Fifteen clio- further on is thevill. of Tatsumachi, and 1^ ri more journeying brings the traveller to

Siiwara (Inn, Sakura-ya), which lies in a more open part of the valley, nearer to the level of the river. At Hashiwa, a hamlet beyond Suwara, skins of the great falcon {kimia-taka) and of the

Uli

FiOiOe 39. — llie XaJcasendo,

sheep-faced antelope (iwa'sUika) are hung out for sale. From

Nojiri (Inn, Furu-ya) to

Midoiio (Inn, Miyagawa) is the narrowest part of the valley ; the rocks are steep, and the road over- hangs the rushing stream. In many places it is laid on ledges huilt out from the rock, and at one point passes over a projecting rock by means of two bridges thrown across deep gul- lies. Tsumago should be avoided as s. halting-place, the inns being un- usually poor and malodorous. The road now ascends the Magome-iogc by a gentle gradient. The summit commands an extensive view of the province of Mino, with its low-lying, somewhat bare and sandy hills. On the other side of the pass is the vill. of

MngOiiie (Inn, Kuno-ya), perched on the top of a wooded hill cut into terraces for the cultivation of rice. The descent from Magome is called the Jdh-kokn-toge, said to be a cor- ruption of Jik-kyokiij or ' ten turn- ings.' About 400 ft. below Magome, s. post marks the boundary between the provinces of Shinshu and Mino. Ochiai lies in a hollow by the side of an affluent of the Kiso- g&wsi, which latter river here again comes in sight to the r. The road now crosses the spurs of Ena-san until ' reaching

^akaitsii-^awa (Inn, Hashiriki), which is situated close to the base of that mountain. From here the way is mostly hilly on to

Ui (l7in, Ishikawa).

[Between Oi and Mitake, a dis- tance of 8 rl along the Najca- sendo, 1 ri may be saved by diverging along branch roads called the Shita Kaidb and Naka , Kaidb, passing through the village of Kamado (Inn, Suzuki), and avoiding the climb over tlie Ju-san-toge. On this route lies a gorge lined with great black boulders of curious shape, known by such names as the 'The Devil's Washing

Basin,* * The Hanging BeU Rock,' etc. Ciystals and pebbles of various colours are found here.]

The road from Oi to Okute lies over a succession of hills called the Ju'San-tdge, or * Thirteen Passes,' none of which are very high. From an elevation above the Shichi-Jion- matsti-mka, or Hill of the Seven PJne-Trees, there is a grand view of both Ontake and Koma-ga-take. The general aspect of the surrounding hills is bare.

•Oknte (Inn, Yamashiro-ya) is & neat town ou the level. Between here and

Hos kiite (Inn, Matsu-ya), the road passes over a series of hills called collectively the Biiva-tbge. At Hosokute the traveller should ask for a tsngiimi, a kind of thrush preserved in ye&st (kbji-znke), which when slightly roasted is delicious, and forms a welcome addition to- monotonous travelling fare. Passing through

At i take (Inn, Kawaguchi-ya) and Fnshimi, we cross the Kisogawa to

Ota (inn, Iwaiya), from which place the river is navigable. From Ota to, Gifu there is little to mention, except that this part of the route is the most comfortable for jinrikisha riding. The well-kept road passes through vistas of green avenues, with beautiful glimpses of the Kisogawa which now becomes a broad and deep river.

Gifii (see p. 268).

1

Route 40. — Voyage from Yokohama to Kobe,

275

ROUTE 40.

By steamer from Yokohama to KoBE.f

While steaming down Tokyo Bay, there is a good view of Fuji with the Hakone range in the foreground on the r. ; on the 1. is the flat shore of the province of Kazusa. At 1 hr. the ship will be near Kwannon-zaki, on which there is a fixed white light visible 14 miles, showing a red ray in a certain direction to guide ves- sels clear of Saratoga Spit (Futtsu- saki) and Plymouth Bocks to the southward.

One of the first BritiRli men-of-war to enter Tokyo Bay, the old * Imp^rieuse,* flHg-ship of Adinii-al 8ir James Hope, urrounded un Saratov Spit, and had to throw her guns overboai'd before she could be floated off.

Powerful forts have been con- structed on Kwannon-zaki and on Saratoga Spit for the defence of the Bay. After passing Kwaunon-zaki, the ship steers down the Uraga Channel, so called from the town of that name on the shores of a small harbour a few miles S.W. of Kwan- non-zaki, which was formerly the port of entry for Tokyo Bay. At 2 hrs. Tsurugi-saki, the south end of the channel, is rounded, where there is a light visible 24 m. Thence the track lies S.W. to Rock Island across the Bay of Sagami, which opens on the r., and close past the north end of Vries Island, des- cribed in Route 8. From 4 to 6 hrs. the ship will be running almost paral- lel to the coast of the peninsula of Izu, within 10 m. of the shore. A fine prospect may be enjoyed of its rugged mountain chain, with Fuji beyond, bearing N.W. At 6 hrs. Hock Island (Mikomoto)^ ofi the extreme S. of Izu, is reached ; on it is a fine light visible 20 m. From Rock Island, the direct route

t The expressions * at 1 hour,' *■ at 2 liours,' etc., in the description of this voyage, signify * when the steamer has been 1 hour out of Yokohama,' *■ 2 hours out of Yoko- hama,' etc., taking 12 knots per hour as the average speed.

is W.S.W. to the S.E. extremity of the province of Kishu. This course, which is followed in the summer months, leads the ship so far off shore that there is little to be distinguished. But in winter the N.W. winds generally blow so strongly that,^to avoid the heavy sea, the ship, after passing Rock Island, is kept due W., crossing the mouth of Suruga Gulf, and at 9 hrs. is off Omae-saki, dis- tinguishable at night by a red light visible 19 m. Fuji is now 60 m. distant, and will not be seen, much after this point eitcept in clear winter weather. From Omae-saki the track recedes for some hours from the land, which, being low, is not particularly interesting ; and if the ship left Yokohama just before sunset, this part will be passed in the night. At 13 hrs. the ship is ofi Owari Bay, a deep bay stretch- ing some 30 m. to the northward, narrow at the entrance, but widening out considerably inside. It is from. Omae-saki to this point that the voyage is generally most trying to bad sailors. At 15 hrs. the _ship is ofi Cape Shima, whence to Oshima is a run of 70 m., gradually ap- proaching the land, where fine views of the bold and picturesque moun- tains of the provinces of Kishu and Yamato are to be had.

This Oiihiraa is of course different from the O'ihiuia (Vries Iijland) mentioned above. There are uumeix>us Oshima's off the Japa- nese coa^t, which is not to be wondeied at, as the naiJie means ' big island.' ThiH particiilar Oshitiia ha-s been the scene of repeated maritime disitsters. The latest and moet terrible was tlie foundering of the Tur^ kish man-of-war 'Ei1x)Ugroul' in siep- tember, 1890, when 502 men perished out of a ci'ew of 571.

From 16 hrs. to 29 hrs. is generally considered the most enjoyable part of the run from Yokohama to Kobe, and the traveller should make a point o£ being on deck as much as possible. Rounding Oshima, which is marked by a red light visible 18 miles, at 20 hrs., the vessel is close enough, to the shore to note the thickly studded fishing villages, whose fleets

276

EotUe 40. — Voyage from Yokohmna to Kobe,

of boats cover the water for miles. On both sides of the Kii (or Kishu) Promontory, whale-fishing with nets is carried on. Half an hour's steaming from Oshima brings us to Shio Misaki, on which is a light visible 20 m., intended to guide vessels from the eastward.' From Shio Misaki the track lies close along the shore — sometimes within 2 m., seldoln more than 4 m. — to Hiino Misaki, a run of about 60 m., which, if made in daylight, will be even more enjoyable than the 70 miles mentioned above. The hills of the bold and rugged coast of Kishu to the r. are said to abound in pheasants, deer, bears, and monkej^s. The land now visi- ble on the 1. is the East coast of the Island of Shikoku. At 25 hrs. the ship is off Hiino Misaki, and after steering due North for 26 m., will pass through Izumi or Yura Strait, which is about 6 m. wide, the passage for ships being narrowed to 2 m. by two islands called Ji-no-

shima and Oki-no-shima, on the W^ side of which latter is a lighthouse^ From Izumi Strait to Kobe is a run of 30 m. across a completely land- locked bay, with the large Island of Awaji on the 1. Kobe is generally- reached at from 28 to 30 hrs., wea- ther being favourable.

Passenger steamers usually re- main 24 hrs. at Kobe, which gives travellers an opportunity to visit Osaka and Kyoto.

The chief distances of the run between Yokohama and Kobe, as made by the Nippon Ywien Kivai- sha's steamers, are as follows : —

Yokohama to : — Miles,

Lightship 2

Kwannon-zaki 14

Cape Sagami 23

Rock Island 74

Oshima 244

Hiino Misaki 297

Oki-no-shima , 322

Hyogo Point ! 346

Company's Buoy 348

SECTION V.

WESTERN JAPAN AND THE

INLAND SEA.

(Routes 41 — ^0.

Eonte 41. — Kobe and Xeighboiirhood,

279

= ROUTE 41.

Kobe and Neighbourhood.

'— ^jkuta. nunobiki waterfalls.

^ suwa-yama. maya-san (the moon

temple). futatabi-san. obu.

t momiji-dera. taisanji. takara-

Jl ZUKA. BISMARCK HILL. SUMA,

maiko, and akashi on the sanyo

railway. mino. arima. rokko-

san. hyogo.

Kobe.

Hotels. — Oriental, No. 80, near the centre of the Settlement ; Hyogo Hotel, facing the sea and close to the landing-place in the Settlement ; Hdtel des Colonies.

• Japanese Inn. — Tokiwa. Consulates. — British (including

Austro-Hungarian and Spanisli),

and German (including Italian) on

the Bund ; American, No. 15,

Settlement ; French, No. 21.

. Ba7iks. — Hongkong and Shanghai

Bank, No. 2, Bund ; New Oriental,

No. 11, Bund ; Agents for Chartered

, Mercantile Bank of India, London

j and China, No. 7 ; Agents for

I Chartered Bank of India, Australia

and China, No. 26.

Churches. — Union Protestant Church (Anglican and Congrega- tional services), No. 48; Roman Catholic, No. 37.

Curio-dealers. — Museum of Arts and Manufactures, No. 30, Settle- ment, a foreign store. Native Curio-shops. — Echigo-ya I and variqus others in Moto-machi ; [ Ohashi, for modern art products, at j the end of Division Street near the

railway. I PJwtographers. — Ichida, in Moto- machi (5lain Street), native town ; Kasuga, in Sakae-machi. Newspapers. — *' Hyogo News "

• and " Kobe Herald," daily. Steadier Agencies. — Peninsular

[and Oriental Co., No. 109; Mes- «ageries Maritimes, No. 5 ; Nord- deutscher Lloyd, No. 10 ; Canadian Pacific, No. 26; Nippon YGsen

r

Kwaisha, No. 2, Native Bund. Kobe is also the centre for the numerous small steamers plying on the coast of the Inland Sea.

The Kobe Club and the Recreation Ground for cricket, base-ball, lawn- tennis, &c., are at the E. end of the Settlement.

r/iea/rc.^— Daikoku-za, at Nanko- mae in the Japanese town. There is also one at Hyogo called Ben- ten-za.

The Post and Telegraph Office and the terminus (Kobe station) of the Tokaido Railway from Yokohama to Kobe are in the native town at the

«

W. end of Sakae-machi. The sta- tion nearest to the Settlement for travellers to Osaka, Kyoto, and Yokohama is Sannomiya, 5 min. from the landing-place, following Division street. Kobe station is also the terminus of the Sanyo line running down the shore of the Inland Sea, and travellers in that direction should, in order to avoid delay, start from Kobe station, not from Sannomiya. No passports are required for Osaka; but persons travelling to places beyond that town in one direction, and to Hi- meji and beyond in the other, are compelled to produce passports be- fore tickets are issued to them. Local passports for Kyoto, Nara» and the shores of Lake Biwa are procurable at the foreign department of the Prefecture; but strangers must apply for them through their consulates. More extensive pass- ports are obtainable within three or four days from the Japanese For- eign Office in Tokyo, on application through the Consulates.

Kobe was opened to foreign trade in 1S68. Previous to that time the ntttiTS trade whs carried on at Hyogo. a lance town adjoiuin;? Kobe on the 6.W., and griviug its name to the whole Prefecture. The municipal affairs of the Hettlement are managed by a Council consisting of the Japanese prefect, the foreign consuls, and three elected mernbei's of the community. Owing to the increase in the trade and populatiou of the port. Kobe is rapidly extending bevond the Settlement up the slope to the foot of the hills, as far as the

280

Botite 41, — Kobe and ^eif/JihowJiood,

[

limit within which foreigners are allowed to lease land uud houses.

Kobe is the favourite open port in Japan, owing to the purity and dry- ness of its air, and its nearness to many places of beauty and interest, such as Kyoto, Lake Biwa, Nara, and the Inland Sea. The neigh- bourhood abounds in pretty walks and picnic resorts, of wliich the fol- lowing are the chief : —

1. Ikllta. The Shinto temple of Ikuta stands in a wood of crjp- tomerias and camphor trees, 5 min. walk behind the foreign Settlement. The deity worshipped is Waka- hirume-no-^Iikoto, who may be styled the Japanese Minerva, as she is supposed to have taught the use of the loom and to have introduced clothing.

The t*»mple is said to have been fonnded by the Empre»s Jin^o on her return from her famous expedition ng'ains»t Korea, in honour of ttiis goddcHS w}iom (she had adopted as the patr<»ness of lier enterpiise, and to whom she owed the victory f?iiined by her arm^j. Hideyoslii, wlien despatch- ing his expedition to Korea in the 16th century, caused prayers to be offered up at the shrine of this proddess. I'rayers to her in seasons of drousfht or o^ excessive rain are said to be invariably answered.

J Pestivrtl, 3rd Aijril. Annual fuir, 23rd to

I 27th September.

A 2. The Niiiiobikl Watcifiills are

about 20 min. from the Settlement, past the Recreation Ground. Tlie path first reffches the Me-dakij or 'Female Fall,' 43 ft. high; then j)as.sing through a tea-house and over a covered bridge, it reaches other tea-houses which command a view of the upper, or * Male Fall ' {Odakl), 82 ft. high. Troops of large monkeys arc sometimes seen in this neighbourhood. A good view of Kobe and the surrounding country may be had from Sunago- yama, a detached hill near the fall. ^here is a tea-house at the top.

3. SniYa-yaiiin. This spur of the range behind Kobe, crowned by tea- houses where mineral baths may be taken, commands an extensive view of the town and sea-shore. It fras here that, in 1874, the transit

of Venus was observed by a party of French astronomers.

4. Mnya-san is the name of one of the liighest peaks (2,490 ft.) of the range behind Kobe. The sum- mit is about 2 hrs. walk from Kobe^ return 1^ hr. This place is known to foreigners as .the Moo7i Temple — a purely fanciful designation, as the place has nothing to do with. the moon, but is dedicated to Maya. Bunin, the mother of Buddha. The temple stands on a platform at the top of a stone staircase, about* 400 ft. below the top of the moun- tain, which is reached by passing through a door to the 1. of the chapel in the rear, before ascending.. The temple contains a small image of Maya Bunin, one of a pair made by order of Wu Ti of the Liang dynasty (A.D. 502-529), with the object of diminishing the mortality of women in child-birth, which was. very great during his reign. It was. obtained by Kobu Daishi during his stay in China.

A, 5. Fiitatnbisati, a temple dedi- cated to Kobo Daishi, stands on a^ conical hill covered with trees- behind the first i*ange of hills to the N. of Kobe. It is accessible either by a stiff climb of 1 hr. through & pass properly called Kuruma-dani, but known to tlic foreign residents. as ' Hunter's Ciap,' at the foot of which is a small spring containing sulphur, or by a more roundabout but less steep ascent entering a valley to the W. of Suwa-yama. The view from the top repays the climb, and the outlook to the N. is picturesque,, giving a bird's-eye view of the lake and bare weather-worn hills known to foreigners &s Aden jWhich locality the prospect somewhat resembles. The Japanese name is Shari-yama. In the autumn, the colouring of the foliage on Futatabi is particularly fine. Near the summit, on the r. hand going up, is the Kaine- ishif a rock the top of which is roughly fashioned into the head and fore-legs of a tortoise (kamc).

WalJcs ami Excursions.

281

6. An agreeable round of a little •over 3 hrs. may be made by passing Futatabi-san on the W., descending to Aden, and taking a path along the W. shore of the lake, ■which leads into the Arima road near Obu, whence the pedestrian •can return to Kobe viA Hyogo. -Jinrikishas may usually be procured :at the Obu-no-chaya, a tea-house a little way up the Arima road.

7. A pleasant walk may be taken "by following up the waterfall stream above the falls ; but a time should "be chosen when the stream is not •over-full, as the path crosses it some twenty times by means of stepping-stones. From points on this path the ascent may be made -of Futatabi-san on the W., and of Iklaya-san on the E.

8. A track following the summit •of the first range at the back of Kobe from E. to W. affords, along its entire length, a fine view of the •sea. One of the ways down near Suyama passes tlirough the Crema- tion Ground, where cremation is •carried on in a way more curious than agreeable to the senses of sight tind smell.

9. Zenshoji or Momijl-dera, that is, * Maple Temple,' lies some dis- tance beyond Hyogo. Though the walk there is uninteresting, the temple itself is prettily situated. Further again to the \V., in the hills behind Takatori-yama or, ' Coal Hill,' lies Taisanjiy a large collec- tion of old temple buildings, situated in a valley surrounded by finely wooded hills.

10. A good walk may be taken by following the road from Karasu- wara on the outskirts of Hj'ogo, through the ' Horse-shoe Valley ' to Obn. Particular notice should be taken of a precipitous rock high up the hillside on the 1. hand. On its face the Buddhist invocation Namit Amida Butsit has been cut in gigantic characters, to accom- plish which the person who carved

them must have been suspended from the summit by a rope.

The railway now affords facilities for making a number of more dis- tant excursions. Such are those to

11. TaknraziikA (*Takarazuka Hotel, foreign style), 1 hr. by jin- rikisha from Nishiuomiya station. This place has good mineral baths and several pretty walks, especially those to the temples of Kojin-san* and Nagahama.

12 In the same direction is Ka~ hiito-yama, called by the foreign re- sidents Bismarck Hill, from the re- semblance of the four trees on its summit to the four hairs which the great Chancellor is said to have on his liead. Curious stone images and shrines are here to be seen perched on apparently inaccessible pinnacles. The climb, easy as far as the temple of Hachiman, is almost breakneck from there to the summit ; but the view is magnificent, this hill being a landmark for the whole country- side and for ships navigating up the Kii Channel. From the bridge at Nishinomiya the top can be reached in 1^ hr.

13. Siiiiia, Maiko, and Akaslii are

well-known places on the Sanyo Railway, where the Kobe residents often hire summer lodgings. The following inns may be recommend- ed:— Ho3^o-in at Suma; Kame-ya at Maiko; and Hashimoto-ya at Akashi. At Akashi, which is a pleasant spot for picnics, there is a fine temple in honour of the ancient poet Kaki-no-moto-no-Hito- maro. Akashi is also remarkable as the place recently selected as the time meridian for all Japan.

From the time of Hitomaro early in the 8tli century onward, the Japanese poets have never tired of sin sing' the beauties of this pine-clad coast. Here also is laid the scene of some of the most celebrated chap- ters of the Genji Monogatariy the greatest of the classical romances, composed cArcn A.D. 1000. This coast has likewise been the scene of stirring historical events, more particularly of a great battle fought in the year 1184 between the armies of the rival clans of Taira and Minamoto, -who

282

Boiite 41. — Kobe and Xeighbourhood.

were then »till strnggrling for ix)1itical supremacy, though the final triumph of the Mioamoto in tne person of Yoritoino was not far off. Tlie battle was fought close to the W. end of Suma in a ralley called Ichi-no-tani, nnd whs the occasion of au incident famous in history and song as the 'Death of Atsumori.' (See Kumagui Nao- zanif, p. 42.)

14. Hirano. This place, suitable for picnics, is situated 10 m. north of Kanzaki Station on the Tokai- do Bail way. A jinrikisha road leads to it, passing about half-way a very pretty gorge through which dashes a stream called Tsuzumi-ga- taki. The mineral spring of Hirano is the Apollinaris of Japan. Visi- tors will be shown over the establish- ment by the manager.

15. Mino. This pjace is best Teached by train to Osaka, whence it is a 2 hrs. jinrikisha ride. The jinrikishas must be left at the en- trance of the vill. Shortly beyond, the path enters a beautiful glen some 2 m. in length, terminated abruptly by a tall cliff over which falls a cascade 70 ft. high. The best time to visit Mino is in Novem- ber, when the maple-trees glow vith an almost incredible blaze of colours. It is also very pretty in April, when the cherry-trees are in blossom. Some way up the glen, on the r., is a temple with a little pavilion overlooking the stream — a favourite spot for picnics.

16. Arinia (Innsj Sugimoto, Masu- da, and Kiyomizu, all with Euro- pean food and beds), the favourite hill station and summer resort of the Kobe residents, lies 9 m. from Kobe as the crow flies, and is 1,400 ft. above sea level. The air is cool, the scenery pretty enough though not remarkable,, and there are pleasant rambles to be made in the vicinity. The arrangements at the mineral springs are not specially adapted for foreign visitors; but all the inns have an abundance of beautifully clear, cold water. Arima may be most easily reached by taking the train to Sumiyoshi, 15min., and then walking over the Kokko-san Pass,

I a distance of 8 m. for which ^ hrs. must be allowed. Persons in- capable of walking so far can hire chairs at Sumiyoshi station, and get carried up in 4 hrs. The pass, which is about two-thirds of the way to- Arima, lies 3,000 ft. above the sea. From the top of liokko-san itself^ 200 ft. higher, a fine view may be obtained.

16. It is easy from Kobe to visit the large and interesting Island of Awaji, which forms the subject- matter of Boute 49, and to start on the tour down the Inland Sea sketched out in Route 50.

Hyogo.

Hyogo (Inn^ Tokiwa) adjoins. Kobe on the S.W. It begins just beyond the Minato-gawa, which is- easily distinguished by the tall pine- trees lining its banks. The bed of this river, like many others along this coast, is raised to a consid> erable height above the surround- ing country, owing to the masses of sand and pebbles continually swept down from the neighbouring hills^ It is generally dry, except im- mediately after heavy rain. The banks have been neatly laid out so as to form a public walk, which leads to the Shinto temple erected since the Kestoration of 1868 to the memory of the loyal warrior Kusunoki ^Masashige. — The Bud- dhist temple of ShijiJxdji, possesses a large bronze Buddha which is worth a ^'isit. In the same locality is a monument to Kiyomori, consisting; of a pagoda-shaped pillar 20 ft. high. The temple of Seifukuji will be familiar by name to all admirers- oi Mitford's * Tales of Old Japan,- as the scene of the Jmrakiri which he witnessed and so graphically describes. More modern, having been only completed in 1891, is the Daibutsu at the temple of Nd/ukuji. This large image of Buddha is 43 ft. high, and 85 ft. round the waist ; the length of the face is 8.^ ft., the eye 3 ft., the ear 6 ft., the nose 3} ft.»

Boute 42, — OsaJsa and Neighbourhood.

2da

the mouth 2} ft., the diameter of the lap 25 ft., and the circumference of the thumb 2 ft.

Hydgo first rose into prominence in the latter part of the 12th ceutoiy, when Kiyo- mori removed the capital from KyOto to Fukuwara in the immediate vicinity. This change of capital only lasted six months — from the 26th June, 1180, to the 20th December of the same year; but Kiyo- mori's partiality for the place left perma- nent effects, he having diverted the bed of the Minato-gawa to its present coarse so aa to prevent it from flooding the town, and having constructed the artificial island of Tsakijima virhich subsists to this day. The stuuy bed of the Minato-gawa was the scene, in A.D. 1336, of a bloody battle between tiie partisans of thb rightful Km- peror Go-Daigo, and Takauji, founder of the Aflhikaga line of Shoguus. In this battle the famous loyal warriors Nitta Toshisada and Kusunoki Masashige suf- fered a crushing defeat, after which Masa- shige, rather than fly, committed harakiri.

ROUTE 42. Osaka and Neighbourhood.

1. THE city: the mint, tenjin sama, kozu-no-miya, ikudama-no- jinja, tennoji, dotombobi, hon- gwanji temples. 2. neighbour- hood : sumiyoshi and sakai.

1. — The City of Osaka.

Osaka, also pronounced Ozaka, is reached by the Tokaido Railway from Kobe in a little over 1 hr., and from Kyoto in 1^ hr.

Hotel. — Jiutei, in Nakanoshima, 10 min. from the Tokaido Railway station.

Japanese Inn. — Tokiwa.

Japanese Restaurant. — Soikwan- ro.

Post and Telegraph Offices. — At the Umeda Railway station, at Shinsai-bashi, at Korai-bashi, and in the Foreign Settlement.

Theatres. — In the Dotombori.

Curio Dealers. — Yamanaka, Ogu- ni, and others at Korai-bashi.

Silk Mercers. — Mitsui, at Korai- bashi; Daimaru, in the Shinsai- bashi-suji ; and Obashi-ya in Mido- suji.

There are many good shops of various kinds in the Shinsai- bashi-suji. The bazaars (kwankdba) deserve a visit. The best are the Furitsu Hakiibtitsti-jo between Umeda Station and Tennoji, the Shohin Mihon Chinretsu-jb in D6- jima, and the Shbgyb Club at Imamiya.

For Steam Communication to Awaji and Inland Sea ports, see Routes 49 and 50.

Eailway Stations. — There are three, viz., one at Umeda for the Tokaido, one in Mitiatockb for Nara, and one at Namba for Sumiyoshi and Sakai. Each of these stations is about 20 min. by jinrikisha from the others.

Hintoryand Topography. — This wealthy coxmnercial city, situated at the mouth of the Yodogawa, covers an area of nearly S square miles. The earliest use of the name Osaka occurs in a document dating from the end of the 15th century, applied to part of the township of Ikudama. The ancient name of the city, still used in poetry, was yaniwa, said to be a corruption of nami haya * wave-swift,' or nami kana * wave- flowers,' l)ecause the fleet of Jimmu Tenn5 here encountered a boisterous sea on its arrival from Hyaga. In 1583 Hideyoshi resolved to make Osaka the seat of his power, judging that he could from this position most easily dominate the Dai- myos of the South and West. He there- fore ordered a Castle to be constructed. Labourers were drawn from all parts of the country (except the domain of leyasu), and the work was completed in two years. The palace thus raised within the castle was probably the grandest building of which Japan ever boasted. It survived the taking of the castle by leyasu in 1615; and in 1867 and 1868 the members of the foreign legations were received within its walls by the last of the Tokugawa Sho- guns. Will Adams, in his quaint style, gives a good idea of the splendour of the palace and the extent of the city in his day. He says : * I was carried in one of

* the King's gallies to the court at Omca,

* where the King lay about eightie leagues

* from the place where the shippe was.

* The twelfth of May 1600. I came to the

* great King's citie who caused me to be

* brought into the court, beeing a wonder-

* full costly house gfuilded with gold in

* abundance. . . . We found Ozaea

* to be a very great towne, as great as

284

Route 42, — Osaica and Neighbourhood.

* London •within the vralls,. with many •• faire timl)er bridges of a great height,

* Beruing to pass ouer a riuer there as

* wide as the Thamen at London. Some

* faire houses we found there but not

* many. It is one of the chiefe sea-ports

* of all lapan ; hauing a castle in it, mar-

* ucUous large and strong, with very

* deepe trenches about it, and many draw

* bridges, with gates i)lated with yron.

* The castle is built all of free-stone, with

* >)ulwarks and battlements, with loope

* holes for smal shot and an-owes, and

* diners passages for to cast stones vpon

* the assaylants. The walls are at the

* least sixe or seuen yards thicke, all (as I

* said) of free-fttoue, without any filling in

* the inward part with trumpery, as they

* reported vnto me. The stones are great,

* of an excellent quarry, and are cut so

* exactly to fit the place where they are

* laid, that no morter is used, but onely

* earth cast betweene to fill vp voyd

* creuises if any ]>e.' Excluding the ])alace, this remains an excellent descrip- tion of the place as it exists to-day. The huge stones forming the walls of the principal gate of the castle attest the magnificent design of its founder. f>ut- side the present fortress ran a second line of moat and parapet, the destruction of which was made a condition of peace by leyasu after the first siege of 1614. The moat varied in width from 80 yds. to 120 yds., and in depth from 12 ft. to 2J( ft.; but it was completely effaced in about three weeks* time. On the 2nd Feb., 1868, the bnildings within the castle were set on fire by a train laid by the Tokugawa party be- fore their final retreat, and were comple- tely destroyed in a few hours. The fortifications now serve as the head- i^uarters of the Osaka Military District, and permission to inspect them may generally l)e obtained by presenting a visiting card at the principal entrance. The view from the top of the platform, on which stoo<l the donjon {fen»hu)f is very fine. There is a remarkaj)le well here called the Kimmei'inii, lit. * Famous Golden Water,' which furnished a sufiicicnt sup- , ply for the garrison in time of siege.

The city of Osaka lies upon the banks of the Yodogawa, the river draining Lake Biwa. Nakanoshima, an island in the ■centre of the stream, divides the river into two courses of alx)ut equal width. The scene here on summer evenings is of the gayest and prettiest description. Hundreds of lK)ats float lazily upon the water, filled with citizens, who resort thither to enjoy the cool river breezes, while itinerant musicians, vendors of refreshments and fireworks, etc., ply amongst the merry throng doing a thri- ving business. ,The city is also intersected ))y numereus canals, which necessitate a great number of bridges and give it an appearance which may remind the tra- veller of Holland. Osaka always suffers to a greater degree than other cities in

the Empire from epidemics, prof)ably due to contamination carried by so much water communication. jThe three great bridges across the Yodogawa are the Temma- bashi, the Tenjin-bashi and the Naniwa^- Imshi. The principal thoroughfare is th.e Shinsai-bashi-suji, which its fine shops, theatres, and bustling aspect renaer one of the.most interesting streets, nofe only in Osaka, but in Japan. In summei* this street derives quite an Oriental ap- pearance from the curtains stretchetl across it to keep out the sun, and fmnai the bright hues of many of the aiticles of merchandise.

The Foreign Settlement is situated at Kawaguchi, at the junction of two streams. Close by are the Custom Houses, and the wharves for the steamers that ply between Osaka and Kdl)e, Shikokn, and the ports of the Inland Sea. Osaka, for all its bustle and prosperity, ha« not fulfilled the expectations formed of it as a centre of foreign trade. The affairs of the foreign municipality are managed by a committee constituted in the same way as at Kobe.

The following are the chief places of interest, beginning with those nearest to the Tokaido Railway sta- tion, and making the round of the city. One day is suflftoient for the whole.

The Mint {Zdhei-7cyoku)t about 20 min. in jinrikisha from the sta- tion, is well-worth a visit. This establishment was organised in 1871, and placed under Major T. W. Kinder, formerly of the Hongkong Mint, with a staff of British officials. The management has been entirely Japanese since 1889. The ISIint now produces almost exclu- sively silver and copper coins. The work was first started with machinery purchased from the Hongkong Government after the Mint in that colony had been closed ; but great additions have since been made. Besides the Mint proper, there are sulphuric acid works and a refinery.

Tei^in Sama, on the N. side of the river, not far from the Tenjin-bashi, is a popular temple dedicated to Suga- wara-no-Michizane, and founded in the 10th century. The principal festival is held on the 25th June. The temple contains some good carvings, and the ex-voto sheds several pictures of merit. Crossing

Tennojl and other Temples,

285

"tlie river by the Tenjin-bashi and proceeding S. for about 1 mile, we . recbch

Kozn-iiO'iiiiya, on the hill to the

1., -which commands a fine view W.

over the town towards the Straits of

Atashi. This temple is dedicated to

the Emperor Nintoku, b. 278 A.D.

according to the received chronology.

In the florist's garden (Hyak-kwa-

-en) at the foot of the hill, the shows

of peonies at the latter end of April,

.and of chrysanthemmns about the

middle of November, are amongst

the finest in Japan.

The Ikiidaina no Jinja, a little further S. up a flight of steps, is de- •dicated to the patron deities of the city, and is fabled to hAve been founded by Jimmu Tenno on the spot where the castle now stands. Hideyoshi removed the temple to its present site about the year 1596. The view from the back Is the same as from Kozu-no-miya. About a mile further S. stands the cele- brated Buddhist temple of

Tennoji, which occupies an im- mense extent of ground on the S.E. of the city. It was founded by the cele- I brated Shotoku Taishi about A.D. 600, but has frequently fallen into ruin, and been renovated at the expense of either the Mikados or the Shoguns. On entering the great south gate, we find ourselves in a large open space, the centre of which is occupied by a square colonnade, open on the inner side. On the r. is a chapel called Taislii-dd, dedica- ted to Shotoku Taishi. It is a build- ing of unpainted wood, roofed with thick shingles. Opposite to this is . the Btdo no kane^ or * Bell of Lead- ing,' which is rung in order that the Saint-Prince may lead the •dead into- Paradise. Dolls, toys, and children's clothing are offered up before it. Near the tortoise pond to the r., is a building containing a stone chamber with water pourinjg into it from the mouth of a stone tortoise. The names of those who have recently departed this life are written on

slips of thin bamboo, and held at the end of a long stick in the sacred stream, which also carries petitions to Shotoku Taishi on behalf of the souls of the dead.

From the gallery at the top of the Igfty five-storied pagoda, the whole city and surrounding country can be seen. The Koncloy or Golden Hall, is abput 54 ft. by 48 ft., and the highly decorated shrine within is dedicated to the Nyo-i;rin Kwan- non. The image, which is of gilt cop- per, is said to have been the first Buddhist image ever brought to Japan from Korea; but that honour is also claimed by the triple image of Amida, Kwannon, and Daiseishi at Zenkoji in Shinshn. Various treasures dating from the 7th and 8th centuries are preserved at Tenno- ji.

Returning by the same streets to the entrance of K6zu-no-Miya, and going W., we soon find ourselves by the side of the Dobombori canal, in a street consisting chiefly of the- • atres, variety shows, and restaurants. This part of Osaka is cspecisJly worth seeing in the evening. Turn- ing to the r. at the Ebisu-bashi,.we cross into the Shinsai-bashi-suji, about half-way down which, a little to the 1., stand the two temples of the Hongwanji sect of Buddhists. The first is the Hi^nslii Hongwanji, built about the year 1615. It contains some fine massive open-work caiTings. The Nislii Hongwanji is a few hundred yards further north in the same street. Its gateway is a beautiful example of the application of tlie chrysanthemum in tracery and open-work carving. In the central shrine is a statue of Amida 3 ft. 6 in. high, ^vith Shinran Sho- nin on his 1., in a richly carved and gilded shrine.

2. — Neighbourhood of Dsaka.

The principal places of interest in the immediate neighbourhood of Osaka are Sumiyoshi and Sakai, both reached by the Hankai Bail-

286

Boiite 42, — Osaka and Neif/hboiirhood»

way. Trains run 'from either end at intervals of 40 min. during the day.

Hankai Railway.

£p «

2iiii.

e\

Names of

Stations.

Remarks.

OSAKA (Namba). Tenga-jaya. Sumiyoslii

(Alight for I temi)le.

RAKAI.

The Jarge embankment seen be- tween Osaka and Tenga-jaya is that of the Nara Bailway,

Tenga-jaya is so called because Hideyoshi, when lord of the Em- pire, had a villa there, which is still maintained for the sake of its historical associations. It stands in a small grove visible to the 1. from the carriage windows. The name of this place is familiar to all Japanese theatre-goers, as the scene of a famous vendetta which is often represented on the boards.. The en- trance to the temple of Sumiyoshi is passed just before reaching the station of that name.

The Temple of Sumiyoslii, de- dicated to the three gods of the sea who, according to the legend in the NiJwngi assisted the Empress Jingo in her expedition to Korea, is held in high veneration by the lower classes of 6saka, great crowds flock- ing to it on festival days (every u-tw-liiy or * day of the hare '). Out- side are innumerable stone lanterns presented as ex-votos. In the pond over which passes a semi-circular bridge, live a number of tortoises with water-weed growing on their hacks. These are popularly known as Tnino-gainey from viino the grass-coat worn by peasants and boatmen in rainy weather, and kamCj a tortoise. The Yamato-gawa is crossed near its mouth before entering

Sakni (Inns, Bokai-rO, Satsuma-

ya), a large manjufacturing centre > Its fine beach lined with tea-liouses- attracts many visitors from Osaka, during the summer months. Tlio lofty chimneys are those of bricks coke, and silk factories.

Sakai takes its name from its position close to the boundary of the three pro- vinces of Iznmi, Settsu, and Kawach i, having been originally called Sakui-no- tfiu, that is, • Boundary Harbour.* Until the end of the 14th century, when a for- tress was built here by Yamana Ujikiyo, it was a mere village. The manufactur©- of hard-ware, carpets, and cosmetic powder are the principal industries. Konishi Tsu-no-kami, one of Hideyoslii'i* most distingviished officers and an early- convert to Christianity, was bom in thia- town, where his forefathers for several generations had carried on the business of druggists. Another equally celebrated native of Sakai was Sen-no-RikyU, a great favourite with Hideyoshi, and often rer garded as the father of the tea-drinking- ceremonial {cha-no-i/n). In the 16th cen- tury Sakai wns one of the most flourishing^ of the Roman Catholic mission stations, and is frequently mentione<l by the Jesuits and other early writers. Will Adams thus- describea it : * Right over against Ozactt, on the other side of the riuer, lyeth an- other great Towne called Saceif, but not so- bigge as Ozacuy yet is it a towne of great trade for all the Hands thereabout.*

At the Monastery of Myokokuji, belonging to the Nichiren sect, are some fine specimens of the sotetsit (Cycas revoluta)y often erroneously called the sago-palm. They were planted here by Miyoshi Jikyu about the middle of the 16th century. leyasu carried the best away to his own residence in 1582, but finding that it refused to flourish there, restored it to its home. It is popularly believed that this plant, the name of which means * revival by iron,' is much benefited by that metal, and the earth round its roots is covered with iron coins thrown, there by visitors. The warm climate of Sakai seems particularly favourable to the sotetsUf which is not indigenous to Japan.

In the front court of this temple are buried eleven warriors of the Tosa claa who were condemned to disembowel them- selves for having shot down the same number of unarmed French sailors in the spring of 1868. It must b^ remembered

©

llotUe 43. — Kyoto.

28T

ibat tLia form of capital punishment, barbarous as it may seem to Kurt)peans, fras at that time recogniised as a privilege of the mmurai class, auil preferred by them to simple decapitation.

The sanctum in the main building is handsome. On the S.E . of the town is the Burial'inound (misasagi) of Nintoku Tennoj a double tumulus. The northern summit is 84 ft., the southern 100 ft. high, and the cir- cuit of the base measures 1,526 yds. It is surrounded by a double moat, and in the immediate neigh- bourhood are nine smaller tumuli.

ROUTE 43.

Kyoto.

SlfVIBOXS : IWASHIMIZU, Atago-

YAMA, Rapids op the Katsura- OAWA, Uji.

Kyoto, 'also called Siiikyo.

Hotels. — * Kyoto Hotel, also called Tokiwa, in Kawara-machi ; * Yaami, line view ; Nakamura-3'a, also called Kiken-jaya.

Japanese Inns. — Ikesho, Kashi- wa-tei, in Kiyamachi; Chakyii, near E. end of SanjO Bridge.

Japanese Restatirants. — Takemu- la, Hachishin.

Religious Services. — Presbyterian , every Sunday morning in the li- brary of the Doshisha ; Koman Ca- tholic Church, close to the Kyoto Hotel.

Tficatres and other places of amusement, in bhiu Kydgoku ; two theatres'in Shi jo Kawa-Higashi.

Telegraph and Post Office, in San- jo-dori Higashi-no-Toin.

Kyoto is noted for its pottery and porcelain, its embroideries, cut vel- vets, and brocades, its bronzes, and its cloisonmfs. The following shops may be recommended : —

Pottery and Porcelain. — Kinko- zan, at Awata, where manufacture on a large scale for export is carried

on ; Nishida, at Gojo-zaka. There- are many other manufacturers and dealers in Kiyomizu and at Gojo- zaka, but they work mostly on & ^all scale. m^ Embroidery, Velvets, andMercei^j^ z^— Takashima-ya,Orimqno-GwaislMi,''' ^Nishimura, Dai-maru, Ono (in Karar su-maru Shichijo).

Bronze, Cloisonne, and other Metal- Work. — Shojodo (Jomi), in Tera- machi Shijo-sagaru ; Kanaj'a Go- rosa; ^^iABlika^va, at Shirakawa- bashi {cloisonne only).

Curios (especial bronze, cloisonne,. and porcelain) . — Boeki-Gwaisha,. Kyiikyodo, Takada, and Hayashi, at Furumon-zen ; Ikeda, at Shiin- . monzen. The street called Manjuji- dori is almost entirely occupied by curio-dealers of the more old- fashioned sort.

Lacquer. — Nishimura, in Tera- machi.

Bamboo-Work. — Wada, in Kiya- machi.

Fans and Toys. — Nishida, at Higa- shi-no-Toin Shichi-jo ; Misaki iu Shichi-jo-dori Yanagi-no-Baba.

The Mikado's Palaces (Gosho and Nijd no Riki/u), together with th6 Imperial villas (Katstira no Rikyu and" Shugaku-in), are un- fortunately no longer open to the general public. Permits can be ob- tained only by visitors of distinc- tion, and ty those bearing personal recommendations to the Minister representing their countr}-. The same permit admits to all four, and none who are so favoured should omit to make use of the privilege, at least to the extent of visiting the two Palaces. Kyoto's other greatest sights are the San-ju-san-g»in-du, Nishi Hongwanji, Kiyomizu, Gion» and Chion-in temples, in addition to >yliich at least one of the cele- brated landscape gardens — say Kinkakuji or Ginkakuji — should ba visited, as tlicy are among the most characteristic products of Japanese estheticism. The best general view of Kyoto is to be obtained from a hill called Shogun-zuka close to

r288

Route 43, — Kyoto.

lilaruyama on tlie E. side of the city, 1^ hr. excursion from the Kyoto Hotel. IMaruyama itself, Kiyomizu-dera, and the Yasaka Pagoda also afford good general views.

No one visiting KySto at the proper season should fail to see the Miyako-odot'iy a kind of ballet given every evening from 5 to 11 o'clock at Hcmaini-kdjij near the Gion-za Theatre, entrance 50 sc?i, 1st class. The performances generally begin in mid- April, and last till early in June. Furthermore, no one having money in his purse should fail to visit the shops, which are perhaps the most attractive in Japan.

Though a superficial acquaintance with Kyoto may be gained in a couple •of days, at least a week is necessary to form an adequate idea of its mani- fold beauties. Owing to the gradual shrinking of the city in modern times, many of the best sights are some distance away in the country and much time is spent in going from one to another by jinrikisha. The follow- ing is offered as a sketch of the order in which the various sights of Kyoto may best be visited. Care- ful sightseers will scarcely be able to see all that we have crowded into one day for the guidance of such as are pressed for time ; but they can resume next day at the point where they left off, as the order follows re- gularly round the points of the compass, beginning with the north central portion of the city : —

1st Day. — The Mikado's Palace, — even a passing glance at the exterior is better than nothing — Kitano Tenjin, Hirano Jinja, Dai- tokuji, the Shinto shrine of Ota Nobunaga, Kinkakuji, Toji-in, Omu- ro Goslio (if rebuilt and open to the public, which is doubtful, as it now ranks among the Imperial Palaces), Uzumasa, Seiryuji, Arashi-yama.

2nd Day.— The NijO Palace (the exterior in any case), Katsura-no- Rikyii, Toji, the Inari temple at Fushimi, Tofukuji, San-ju-san-gen- do, Daibutsu.

3rd Day. — Kenninji, Nishi Otani, Kiyomizu-dera, the Yasaka Pagoda, Kodaiji, Shdgun-zuka, Maruyama, Higashi Otani, Gion, Chion-in, tlie Awata Palace.

4th J)ay. — Xanzenji, Eikwando, Kurodani, Shinny odo, the temple of Yoshida, Ginkakuji, Shimo- Gamo, Kami-Gamo, Shugaku-in (for those provided with the necessary permit).

5th Day. — Iwashimizu.

6th Day. — Atago-yama.

7th Day. -^ -The Rapids of the i Katsura-gawa.

8th Day. — Uji.

9th Day. — Hiei-zan.

Hiittory and Topofjraphy. — From the "earliest ages, the seat of the Mikado's rule was genei-ally in the province of Yamato ; but o\\-inK to the ancient custom, of not continuing to inhabit the house of & deceased parent, the actual site was usually changed at the commencement of each reign. At the beginning of the Sth. century the capital was established at Nara, where it remained until A.D. 78#, when the reigning sovereign Kwamma moved to Nagaoka, a spot at the foot of the hills alxnit half-way l)etween Yama- zaki and ArHshi-yama in the province of Yamashiro. In 793, he selected a fresh. site at the village of Uda in the same province, and ti-ansfen-ed his Court thi- ther towards the end of the following year. In order to conciliate fortune, he is said to have be8towe<l on his new capital the name of Heian-jo, or the City of Peace ; but this never came into use as the common designation of the cjty, which was spoken of as Miyako or Kyoto, the former being the Japanese, the latter the Chinese word for ' capital city.' When first laid out, the site measured nearly 3 ra. from E. to "W*., and about 3f, m. from N. to S. The Palace, which occupied about one-fifteenth of the area, was' situated in the centre of the N. side, and a fine street 280 ft. wide led from the gieat gute down to the 8. gate of the city. Nine wide streets, called Ichi-j6, Ni-jO,\San-jo, and so <m up to Ku- jo, intersected the city from E. to W., the widest of those measuring itO ft., the nari'owest somewhat less than half. Similar streets crossing them at right angles ran from N. to S., and l)etween them at ecpial distances were lanes each 40 ft. in width. A double ditch, backed by a low wall with a gate at the cud of each princiiial street, sunxjunded the. whole of this huge square. In 1177 the Palace was destroyed by fire, and three years later the seat of govern- ment wiis removed l)y the all-powerfnl Minister Kiyomori to Fukuwara, the

Tlie Milcado's Palace,

289

modem town of Ilyogo. The Court, how- ever, soon returned to Kyoto, where it re- mained stationary until 186S, Both the city and the Palace have repeatedly fallen a prey to the flames, and as often been rebnllt, as far as possible in the original style. The preseut Palace was built after the great fire of 1854. Since the founda- tion of Yedo in 1590, Kyoto gradually declined in size and im])ortahce. Its population is only half of what the city is estimated to have hold during the Middle Ages; and from Shichi-jo-dori south- wards, wh^t once were busy tliorough- fares are now laid out in market gai-dens. Kyoto stands on the Kamogawa, which, for the gieater part of the year, is a mere rivulet meandering over a wide pebl^ly bed. On the 1. bank of the river are the suburbs of Awata and Kiyomizu. The town of Fushimi to the S. may also he "accounted a suburb. The chief modem addition to the topography of Kyoto is, besides the line of railway, the Lake Biwa Canal which connects the neigh- bouring large lake with the Kamogawa, as de8cril)ed in Route 44.

The nomenclature of the Kyoto streets, apparently complicated, is in reality quite simple, beingjfounded on a reference to the points of tlie compass and to the Ihj of the land which is slightly higher on the N. than on the y. Thus the expres- sion SAi/o-rfo/'i Teramachi Jiiganthi iini dig- nifies that portion of the Shi Jo or Fourth Thorouehfare which lies a little to the E. of the East and West intersection of that thoroughfare by Teramachi. Teramachi- d9ri Shij6 mgarii signifies the portion of the North and South Thoroughfare called Teramachi lying a little to the South of the intersection of that thorouehfare by Shijo-dori, the term mgurn, to 'descend,' being naturally applied to the South, as agaittt * to ascend, is to the North. The lanes mentioned higher u]) are called Ko/i, whence such addresses as Teramachi-dOri Ane-ga-KOfi, which means, ' Ane JJane off the Teramachi Thoroughfare.'

Some curious artificial scars or clearings will ]je observed on carefully scanning some of the pine-clad hills near the city. In these clearings it is that bonfli-es are lighted every 18th August at the close of the Bon festival (Feast of Lanterns). The most conspicuous of these marks is what is called the Ifai Moujiy or ' Chinese cha- racter for Great,'' which is written thus,

3^. It is situated to the N.E. of the city. To the N»W. is the Ilidari Dai Monji, or

'Character for Great reversed,' thus 5^» the difference between the two, though slight to European eyes, being instantly perceptible to any Japanese. There are several more of these marks which the guide will point out.

The Mikado's Palnoe -(Gfos/io). This large mass of buildings covers an area of nearly 26 acres. It is

confined within a roofed wall of earth and plaster, commonly called the Mi Tsuijiy and has six gates. The open space between the wall and the Palace was formerly covered with other lesser buildings in which the Kiigcy or Court Nobles, resided^ It is now cleared and open to the public, and in the S. E. corner of it is a Bazaar (Hahubutsu-kwan) open every year in spring.

Visitors are now admitted inta the Palace through the Mi Daido- ko7-o Gomon, or Gate of the August Kitchen, and are first shown into an ante-chamber where they sigu their names tn the Palace book. From there they are led into the Selryodeiiy or Pure and Cool Hall.

It is so c died from a small brook which runs under the steps. The foreign visitor to these Japanese palaces will proliably think the tenn ' cool '—not to say ' chilly ' and • draughty '—most Hppropriate. Splen- did as is the art displayed, no attem]>t was ever made towards heating or towards anything which we should call comfort.

The Seirybdcn faces E., and mea- sures 63 f t.'by 46^ ft. Originally thi». suite of apartments was the ordinary residence of the sovereign ; but in later times it was used only on the occasion of levees and important Shinto festivals, such as the worship of the Four Quarters on the morning of New Year's day. In one corner the floor is made of cement, on which earth was strewn every morn- ing, so that the Mikado could worship his ancestors on the earth without descending to the ground. The papered slides are covered with ex- tremely formal paintings by Tosa Mitsukiyo. Observe the Mikado's throne, a sort of catafalque witk exquisite silk curtains of white ^ red, and black, the actual seat being a fine mat. The wood of this, as of all the buildings, is chamsecy- paris (hiiioki), the same species as is used for the construc- tion of Shinto temples. The crest everywhere displayed is the sixteen-, petalled chrysanthemum. The roof- ing is of the kind termed hiwada- btiki — a kind of thick shingling —

290

lioiite 43. — Kyoto,

tiles appearing only on the very ridge. The empty sanded courts, tlie white plaster, and the red pillars •of the walls give to the Palace a pe- culiar aspect of solemnity, almost of oppressiveness. Everything, even down to minutise, had its name, its function, and was never changed. For instance, the two clumps of bam- boo in front of the Seiryddcn have each a name handed down from hoary antiquity, one being the Kan- -chikUj the other the Go-chikUy appel- lations derived from Kan and Go, two kingdoms in ancient China.

From the Seiryoden the visitor is conducted to the Shisliindeny which faces S. and measures 120 ft. by 63^ ft.

The narae Shi-nhin-deM-ifi explained as follows: nhi is purine, the tnie colour of the sky or heaveuH; »hiu denotes that which is mysterious and hidden from the vuljrar paze ; den is simply * hall.' This buildiuf? was used for the enthronement of the Mikado, for the New Year's Audi- ence, and other impoilaut ceremonies.

The large paintings in the panels of this hall represent Chinese sages. The originals were painted in A.D. 888 by the famous Kose-no-Kanao- ka ; but they were destroyed long ago, and the present pictures are merely copies of copies. The throne (Mi Chodaijy though quite modem, is interesting. The stools on either side of it are intended for the Im- perial Insignia, — the sword and the jewel. The pattern on the silken curtains is meant to represent the bark of an aged pine-tree. Observe tliat the Mikado sat on a chair in this instance, as did all those here admitted to an audience. A flight of 18 steps leads down into the court. These correspond in number to the original series of grades into which the Mikado's officials were divided. Those who were not entitled to stand on the lowest step were c&Wedji-gej or 'down on the earth,' to distinguish them ^rom the tcn-jd- biiOy or * persons who ascend into the •hall.' On the 1. is a cherry-tree called Salion no sdkura. When the Emperor Kwammu first built the

palace, he planted a plum-tree In this position ; but it withered away, and the Emperor Nimmyo (834 to 850) replaced it by a cherry-tree. The present one was transplanted hither thirty years ago. On the r. side is the Ukon no tachibana, a wild orange-tree, also a relic of an- cient custom.

Snl-on and Ukon were the names of ancient ranks, and the application of them to these trees may be compared to the knighting of the Sirloin of Beef by Charles II.

A corridor leads from the Shishin- den to the O GakumwijOj or Im- perial Study, where the Mikado's tutors delivered lectures, and where courts were held for the cultivation of poetry and music. The decora- tion of the sliding screens in this suite calls for special notice. Most of the rooms, as will be noticed by those acquainted with the Japanese language, take their names from the subjects delineated in them. The wild geese in the Gati no Ma are by Benzan (Gantoku), d. 1869; the screens of the Yamabnhi 7io Ma are by Maruyama Oryu; the chrysan- themums in the Kiktc no Ma, by Okamoto Sukehiko. The three rooms which form the audience chamber, called respectively Gedan^ Cliudatif and Jodan^ are decorated with Chinese scenes. The wooden doors in the corridor are by Sho- mura Ryusho, Yoshida Kokin, Hara Nankei, and Murakami Seiju.

North of the Imperial study, in a building measuring 57 ft. by 83 ft., and facing S.towards a small separate court, is a' suite of rooms called the On Mi Ma (August Three Rooms). Here were held private audiences, and the Kb performances (a kind of lyric drama) were witnessed at a distance by the Mikado seated on the upper floor or jbdan. The No stage is under a separate roof, and cut off from the suite by a high paling, which was removed when a performance took place. The de- corations of the rooms are in tho Tosa style.

Mikado's Palace. Doshisha. Kitano Tenjin.

291

The last suite of apartments to which visitors are now generally admitted is the Tstine Goteuy or Usual Besidence of the Mikados, •consisting of 11 rooms, which, from the 13th century onward, formed the place in which generations of Mika- dos lived and died. The centre room of the suite facing E. was His ^Iajesty*s ordinary sitting-room, the four on the N. being occupied by his female attendants. At the W. end of this suite was the Mdshi no kuchif literally * Opening for Speech,' where men who had business with Hi3 Majesty stated their errand to the women, who then transmitted it to the Mikado. The Imperial bedroom %vas behind the sitting-room, and entirely surrounded by the other apartments, so that no one could get near His Majesty without the knowledge of his immediate at- tendants. Beyond the Tsune Goten lie the Ndiyoden^ or Palace for Enjoj'ing the Cool Air, which was reserved for the Iklikado's private pleasures, and the Kita Goten, or Northern Palace, containing the apartments of the Heir Apparent. There were formerly also palaces for the Empress, Empress Dowager, and Princesses, besides various other buildings now destroyed or removed. For instance, the Kashiko-dohoi'Of or Fearful Place, in which is pre- served the sacred mirror of the Sun- Goddess, has been transferred bodily to Jimmu Tenno's mausoleum in the province of Yamato.

The large white building in foreign style, noticed on the hill r. on quitting the Palace, is the Dosliisha, a Christian University founded in 1876 under the auspices of the Ame- rican Board lilission. Intimately connected with its success is the name of the Rev. Joseph Neeshima, one of the most eminent of the early Japanese converts to Presbyteri- anism. This flourishing institution now includes a special Theological Department, a Girls' School, a Science School, a Hospital, and a Nurses' Training School.

Kitnno Teiyin is a temple dedi- cated to Tenjin Rama (see p. 32), by which latter name indeed it is generally known. Entering through the great stone torii on the S., we find tea-houses, and stone lanterns presented by votaries of the god. A small two-storied gate-house, gaudily- decorated in colours, forms the entrance to the temple enclosure. It is called the San-kd no Mon, or Gate of the Three Luminaries, i.e. the Sun, Moon, and Stars, from re- presentations of those heavenly bodies which may be distinguished with much difficulty among the carvings on the beams of the gate- way. The oratory, built by Hide- yori in 1607, forms the N. side of a square, the other three sides being colonnades, with the Gate of the Sun, Moon, and Stars on the S. Its dimensions are 58 ft. by 24 ft. The cornice is decorated with colour in the style prevalent at that period. The chapel behind, 38^ ft. by 32^ ft.> .is separated from the oratory by a chamber paved with stone, having its roof at right angles to the roofs of the oratory and chapel. Behind is the Jinushino YashirOj or Temple of the Lord of the Soil, said to have been founded in A. D. 836, and numerous other small chapels. The treasury is built of wooden beams, the section of each beam being a right-angled triangle with the right angle outside, a form of construction much followed in this portion of Japan. East of the colonnade are the kagura stage and the building in which the god's car (mikoshi) is kept. The temple was founded ori- ginally by adherents of the Byobu Shinto sect, and is still an excellent specimen of the style of that variety of Shinto, which is much mixed with Buddhism and miscellaneous popular superstitions. The num- berless stone lanterns, the stone and metal bulls (offered up here because Tenjin is said to have ridden on one of those animals), the ex-voto shed (ema-dd) with its grotesque pictures, the elaborately carved and painted

292

Route 43, — K I/O to.

gate-ways, the swaying lanterns — all testify to a form of worship of the baser popular sort. One of the queerest features of the main build- ing is a sot of framed pictures of ^the Thirty-Six Cieniuses of Poetry, made of woven stuffs, which have been recently presented by the manufacturers, and thus servo' as an advertisement.

Pictures of the Thirty-Six Geniuses of Poetrj' are amonj? the usutil atlorumonts of Shinto temples.

Hirniio Jinju. This temple de- serves passing notice, as a good example of a place of worship rebuilt according to the architec- tural canons of *pure Shinto.' The oratory is an open shed hung with pictures representing the Thirty- Six Genuises of Poetry. Beyond it are five chapels — two pairs con- nected by a watch-room, and one detached. They are dedicated to minor Shinto deities. The annual festival is held on the 2nd May. The cherry-trees in the grounds are much visited during the season of blossom, especially at night. They are of many varieties, and each tree has some fanciful, poetical name.

Dftitokiiji.

Daitokuji, belonjring to the Zen sect of Buddhists, was foimtled by Daito Koku- Bbi, an ablxjt of the early part ot the 14th century, to whom, as to so many others, a miraculous birth and prec(X?ious wisdom are ascrilied. The manner of his concep- tion is said to have l)een that his mother dreamt oie nij^ht that a wild proose came flying towards her with an open blossom in its beak, and that soon afterwards she found herself to be with child.

This once magnificent temple still merits a visit on account of its stately proportions. One of its gates — the Hignrashi no Mwiy so called because a day might be spent in examining its carvings — should be specially noted; also the fine gilt image of Shaka in the Garan-do. Daitokuji is celebrated for the treasures stored away in its godowns. Kg temple in Japan, so it is averred, possesses an equally large number of valuable kakeinonos. Though most of the best pieces are thus

hidden from view, the Apartments richly deserve the careful scrutiny of all persons interested in Japanese pictorial art. The entire set of sliding doors (fnsnvia) dividing room from room were painted by Kano Tan-jxi, from whose brush also are folding screens representing scenery in China, the four seasons, children at play, etc. A pair of screens with spleiididly coloured peacocks is by Okyo ; others by Kano Tanshin depict popular occupations and trades. The sepia drawing by Tan- yvi of a man making a monkey dance, which occupies one wall of the innermost room, is particularly famous. An interesting old portrait bust in wood represents Ota Nobu- naga.

The Shinto shrine of Ota Nobu- liagai, on the slope of Funaoka-yania» is prettily situated near Daitokuji. The summit of the hill, which can be reached in a couple of minutes^ commands a beautiful panorama of the city and surrounding country.

This temple was built in 1880 by private- admirers of the hero, who is now wor- shipped as a Shinto gotl.

Khiknknji, more properly Boku- onjl, a monastery of the Zen sect, takes its popular name from the Ji'in-kakUy or * golden pavilion,' in the grounds attached to it.

In 1397, Ashikaga Yoshimitsu, who had tliree years previously surrendered the title of Shogun to his youthful son Yoshi- m(K'hi, obtained this place from its fonner owner, and after extending the grounds, built himself a palace to sei-ve nominally as a retreat from the world. Here he shaved his head, and assumed the garb of a Buddhist monk, while still continuing in reality to direct the affairs of state.

The garden is beautifully laid out. In the middle is a lake with pine- clad shores and pine-clad islets, whose quiet charm none would expect to find so close to a large metropolis. The lake is stocked with carp, which, when visitors appear there, crowd together at the stage below the Pavilion, in ex- pectation of being fed. All the palace buildings have disappeared. The Pavilion alone remains, much

Kinkakiiju Tdji- in .

29B

dunined by age. It stands on the water's edge, facing S., and is a three-storied building, 33 ft. by 24 ft. In the lower room are a seated effigy of Yoshimitsu in shaven pate and priestly garb, and gilt statuettes of Amida, Kwannon, and Selshi, by the carver Unkei. In the' second storey is a small Kwannon in an. imitation rock-work cave, with the Shi-Tenno.

The paintings on the ceiling by Kano Masanobu are now* scarcely recognisable. The third storey was completely gilt, the gold being laid on thickly over varnish composed of bone powder and lacquer upon hempen cloth. The ceiling, walls, and floor were thus treated ; and even the frames of the sliding screens, the railing of the balcony, and the small projecting rafters which form the roof of the balcony, were, as a careful examination will show, covered with the precious metal. Nearly all the gold has disappeared, but the original wood- work is complete, with the excep- tion of a few boards that have been put in to replace some that had decayed. The effect, now so dingy, must have been dazzlingly beauti- ful. On the top of the roof stands a bronze phoenix 3 ft. high, also formerly gilt.

The large hill seeif to the r. fro m the third storey of the Pavilion is Kinukasa-yama.

This name means Silk Hat Mountain, and was given in allusion to the incident of the ex-Mika'lo Uda having ordered it to be spread wibh white silk on« hot day in July, in order that his eyes at least might enjoy a cool wintry, sensation.

The guide will probably wish to lead the traveller round the grounds at the back of the Pavilion, where Yoshimitsu's footsteps and doings are tracked with minute care, — the place where His Highness drank tea, the place whence the water for his tea came, the place where he washed his hands, etc.; but these can have little interest for any but a Japanese. The ApartmentSj on

the other hand, deserve careful in- spection, on account of the sliding screens which they contain by Kano Tan-yii and Jakuchu, of the folding screens by Korin and Soami, of the numerous kakemonos by Shubun, Eishin, Okyo, Korin, Sesson, and other celebrated artists, notably two by Cho Densu representing the three religious teachers Confucius, Ghwang Tzu, add Buddha, besides various relics and autographs of the Ashigawa Shoguns and other illustrious personages. The priest who shows all these treasures tjo visitors, sometimes ends up by treat- ing them to tea in the clia-no-yu style.

Toji-in, founded by Ashikaga Takauji in the 14th century, will interest the historical student as containing effigies of nearly all the Shoguns of the Ashikaga dynasty, beginning with Takauji in the centre chamber, a lacquered wooden seated figure in the court-robe called kari-ginu, with the courtier's wand (shakii) in the r. hand, and wearing a tall black court cap (taka-cboshi). Opposite to him is leyasu (of the Tokugawa dynasty). In the next room are, beginning at the 1., t(2) Yoshinori, (4) Yoshimochi, (6) Yo- shinori II., (8) Yoshimasa, (10) Yo- shizumi, and (12) Yoshiteru. The other room contains the effigies of (3) Yoshimitsu, (7) Yoshikatsu, who died at the age of ten, (9) Yoshinao, (11) Yoshitane, (13) Yoshiharu, a degenerate-looking, dwarfish man, and (15) Yoshiaki, fat and sensual in appearance. Most, if not all, may be looked on as con- temporary portraits of the men they represent. Observe that in their time (14th, 15th, and 16th centuries), the Japanese fashion was to wear a moustache and small pointed beard. The Apartments of this monastery also contain various kakemonos by Kano Tan-yu and other famous

tThe numbers in brackets refer to the order of each in the dynasty to which they all belonged.

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Route 43. — Kyoto,

artists. The sliding screens in ' sepia are all by Kano Sanraka. Those round one of the rooms de- pict the acts of devotion of the Four-and-Twenty Paragons of Filial Piety.

During the i)eriod of fermentation which preceded the restoration of the Mikado's authority, it was the fashion among the opponents of the feudal regime to load the memory of the Ashikaga Phoguns with the insults that could not safely be offered in a direct manner to those of the Tokugawa line ; and one morning in April, 1863, the peojjle of Kyoto woke to find the heads of the effigies of Takauji, Yoshinori, and Yoshi- m^itsu pilloried in the dry bed of the Kamogawa at the spot where it was then usual to expose the heads of the worst criminals. Several of the men con- cerned in this affair wei-e thrown into prison, whence they where transferred to the custody of certain Daimyos, and not released for some years afterwards.

Myosliinji is a large temple of the Zen sect, founded by Kwanzan Kokushi, an abbot of the 14th century.

Oiuuro Goslio, also called Ninnaji, is a monastery founded towards the end of his life by the ISIikado Koko.

In A.D. 899 the ex-Mikado Uda chose it as his place of retirement, and occupied the palace built for him here from 901 until his death in 93 1 . In 890 A decree was issued con- stituting Ninnnji a residence for 'descen- dants of the M ik»ido,' or 3fomeki, as they are culled, a term applied extensively m later years to monasteries founded to pro- vide the miscellaneous Imperial offspring with homes, and also conferred as a title of distinetion upon abbots of other than Im- perial blood . The Mikado Shu jaku entered the priesthood in 952, and took up liis re- sidence here, but no other ex-sovereign ever occupied it. Up to 1868 there had been thirty three successive priest-princes, the last of whom was the present Prince Higashi Fushimi.

Burnt to the gi-ound in 1887, this monastery, now counted among the Imperial summer palaces, is Ijeing rebuilt (1891) in a suitably orna- mental style, aud will doubtless, when finished, be well-worth a visit. The grounds, which are spacious, show to best advantage during the season of the cherry-blossoms. There is a fine five-storied pagoda, which, with a few other of the lesser build- ings, escaped the fire.

Half a ri beyond Omuro Goslio lies l^akao-zail, celebrated for its Momiji-yama^ or * maple mountain,' on one side of a romantic glen. There is a tea-house oh the top wifcti a delightful prospect.

Uziiitiftsa, more properly called Koryujij stands far out of the city at the end of the Nijo street. ^

This verj- ancient Buddhist temple is said to have been founded in A.D. 604 by Sho- toku Taishi, who consecrated it to certain Buddhist gods whose images had been. brought from Korea. The principal edi- fice, called the ;K6do, was, however, not erected before 836, and this having been burnt down about 1150, the present stmo- ture was built out of timber saved from the flames. The other buildings are of much later date— 17th and 18th centuries —and arc now (1891) undergoing repairs.

This temple will have special attraction for the student of Japa- nese statuary, which can nowhere, except at Nara, be studied in such a multitude of very early specimens.! Most of them are about life-size or else half . life-size. The most in- teresting of these wooden statues is one of Shotoku Taishi at the age of thirty-three, said to have been carved by himself. It is clad in a silken robe of imperial yellow, pre- sented by the Mikado at ,his ac- cession, in accordance with ancient custom. In its r. hand the image holds the courtier's w^and, in its 1. a censer. Besides the yellow robe, it wears wide trowsers of white silk damask and a black court hat. The features have a very natural ex- pression, but the paint on the face has become discoloured by time. In the temporary hondb are the Buddhist images from Korea. The most important of these is a gilt wooden figure of Nio-i-rin Kwannon, about 3 ft. high, seated upon a stool, the r. foot lifted and laid on the 1. knee, the 1. hand

tHe will of course remember that many of these, though called Japanese, are either Korean or else carved under the instruction of Korean teachers. See the very interasting opening pages of Ander- son's ' Catalogue of Japanese and Chinese Paintings in the British Maseom.'

Uzwnasa. Araahl-yama, Xijo Paluce,

295

Testing on the r. foot. The face is supported on two long fiugers of the r. hand. Drapery formal. The hair is drawn hack from the fore- head, and tied in a knoh at the top. The features are perfectly natural, •and wear a pensive expression. The hands are heautifully modelled, the arms rather thia, though showing a good idea of form ; hut the feet have recently been restored in a •clums}* manner. The gold has been nearly all rubbed off. Round the shrine are the * Twelve Divine Generals' (Ju-ni-ten), who so fre- ■quently accompany the god Yakushi, •of which latter there is an imago dating from the 9th century. A curious feature is a box about 1^ ft. square, containing no less than 1,000 microscopic images of Jizo {Sen-tai Jizo).

Saga no Sliaka-do, more popular- ly called Seirj/ujiy is a large temple of tlie Jodo sect of Buddhists, to which lads and girls 13 years old make a pilgrimage on the isth day of the 3rd month in order to obtain wisdom — ^ pilgrimage which goes by the name of the jii-san-Diairi. The pre- sent building is about two centuries •old. Behind the altar, is a magnifi- cently gilt shrine of Shaka, with painted carvings presented by the mother of lemitsu, third Shogun of the Tokugawa dynasty. On the doors being opened, a curtain is ■drawn up, which discloses another set of doors, gilded and painted, and then a second curtain splendidly -embroidered. R. and 1. are seated images of Monju and Fugen.

r

The imaffc of Shaka is said to be Indian, *tid to have Ijeen executed fnwn life V)y tbe scuii)tor Bishukatsuma (Vishvakar- man), but it lias more the appearance ■«if a ("hinese work. Choneu, a monk of Toilfliji at Nara, is said to have Ininijjfht it over in the year 987. Accoi-ding to the legfend, it was carved when Shaka Muni w^as absent iu the heaven ■failed Tosotsu-Ten ( Tmthita ), preach- ing to his mother, during? which time lug diKciplcs mourned over his absence. Kinjf Uten (Udayana) ,gave red saudal- wootl fi*om his stores, 'and the saint's \K)rtrait having been drawn from memory hy Mokuren ( Maudgalyuyana ), the

sculptor went to w^ork and speedily com- pleted the statue, which was placed in the monastery of (rion Shoja (the JetavajMw Vihiira). On the return of Shaka after an absence of 90 days, the image descended the steps to meet him, and they entered the monastery together.

Arashi-yaiua is a picturesque gorge up the_ River Katsura, here called the Oigawa, and higher up the Hozugawa. The hills are everj^where covered with j)ine-trees. There are also plantations of cherry- trees, brought from Yoshino in the 13th century by the Emperor Kame- yama, and of maple-trees which add greatly to the natural beauty of the spot in spring and autumn. The place boasts some good tea-liou£es, especially the Nakamura-ya and Hototogisu. The raffs seen on the river bring down timber from the province of Tamba. Hard by, in the vill. of Saga, is Tcnryuji, formerly a vast congeries of temples and priests' dwellings, of which, however, a fire that took place during the civil war of 1864 has left but few remnants standing.

The NijO Palace (Nijb no Rikyu).

This site originally held a mansion erec- ted by Nobunaga in AD. 1569 for Yoshi- aki, the last of the Ashikaga dynasty of Shogniis. The present edifice dates froia 1601, when leyasu built it to serve as a pied-a-terre on the occasion of his visits ta Kyoto. During his time and thatofhia successors, the Tok»ig.i\y'a Shogun«, it was known a« Xijo no Shiro, «n" the Nijo Castle. On the 6th April, ISGS, the present Mikado, just re-iuvetsted with his full ancestral rights by the revolution then in progress, hei-e met the Councd of State, and in their presence swore to grant a deliberative assembly and to docide all measures by public opinion. Afier this, the Castla WHS for some time used as the office of the Kyoto Prefecture, but was taken over in 1883 as one of the Imperial summer palaces. Though as many as possible of the wall paintings, being on paper, were i-oUed up and put away during the occupation of the palace by the prefecture, much harm -was done to painted doors and to precious metal-work by the almost incredible vjin- dalisrn and negler.t which ran riot at that period all over Jspan, wben to deface antique works of art was considered a sign of civilisation and 'progress.' The restor- ation of the Nijo Palace to something like its former splendour dates from 1885-6, at which time the Imperial crest of the sixteen- petallcd chrysanthemum was substituted in.

296

Route 43. — Kyoto,

most places for that of the Tokuga\ra bhoguus.

This palace, a dream of golden "beauty within, is externally a good example of the Japanese fortress, with its turrets at the corners and its wall of Cyclopean masonry. It is only, however, a fraction of its fqrmer self. The present building is what was called the Ni no maru, or Second Keep, the Hojnmai'Uy or Chief Keep, having been de- stroyed by fire about 100 years ago. Alighting at a fine gate called Kara- Ttum or Yotsii-ashi-vion, decorated -with exquisite metal- work and gilt carvings, the Visitor is admitted through a side-door into a court planted with pine-trees. Opposite stands a second gate, called O Kii- ruma-yoscy gorgeous with gold and colours and curious carvings of peonies and phoenixes, the work of Hidari Jingoro, brought from Hide- yoshi's famous palace at Fushimi. Turning to the r., the visitor is then admitted to the Palace pro- per, where, having signed his name in the book, he is shown over the various suites of rooms, the chief character of which is spaciousness, -while the profuse employment of gold as the ground of the mural decorations, and the unusual size and boldness of the paintings on that gold ground give to the whole an aspect of grandeur, power, and xichness rarely seen in a country whose art, generally speaking, re- stricts itself to the small and the delicate. All the wood used in the construction is hhwki and kcyaki ; that of the doors is cryptomeria. The rooms are n£imed according to the objects painted on the sliding screens round their walls. Some have willow-trees, some palm-trees and tigers, some immense eagles bovering over pine-trees life size ; others have fans, large baskets of Howers, etc., all by artists of the Kano school. The coffered ceilings, too, where not injured, are very hand- fKyme. The floors, formerly covered ^tli soft mats of a specially rich

thickness, are now reduced to tho* bare boards — a strange discorct in the golden magnificence. Their removal . is said to have been caused by the desire to imitate European usage and lay carpets down, but this has never been done. The carvings in the ramma of somo of the rooms are exquisitely minute. One pair, in particular, attributed to Hidari_ Jingoro, in the suite called Ohiroinay which repre- sents i^eacocks, is a triumph of art. A peculiarity of some of these carved ramma is that,, though appearing to be open-work and therefore identical on both sides, the two sides are in reality quite different from each other^ Thus, where the obverse has- peacocks, the reverse will have I)eonies. Most of the suites of apartments are connected by wooden doors having fine, bold paintings by unknown artists. One of these paintings is celebrated in the artistic world under the name of Naonobu no nurc-sagi (* the wet 'hexom'by Naonohu'). It represents a heron perched on the gunwale of a boat. During the reign of prefectural vandalism, this precious- work of art was used as a notice- board to paste notifications on f The Sotefsii no Ma, or * Palmetto Room,' was entirely and irrecover- ably defaced at the same time.

The most splendid apartment of all is the Go Taimenjo, or Hall of Audienc£, the last room in the suite called 0-liircma. It positively blazes and sparkles with gold, and the extraordinary size and boldness of the pine-trees painted all around it produces, in its simplicity, an impression which, when the place was the scene of the reception by a Shogun of his prostrate vassals, the Daimyos, must have been over- whelming. Tliu metal fastenings are all gilt, and of exquisite work- manship. They represent chiefly phoenixes, conventional foliage, and the Tokugawa crest. Here too the mats have been replaced in the

Nijo ami Katsura Palaces, ToJL

297

old style — an evidence of good taste prompted, so it is said, by the remarks of foreign visitors. Notice the two levels in the apartment. The raised portion (jodan) was for the Shogun, the lower (gedan) for ordinary mortals. .The last apart- ment of the suite called Kuro-join is a smaller but equally gorgeous reception room — all gold, with •double cherry-trees in full blossom. Observe the two beautiful shelves (chigai'dana)y one of which shows some rude early examples of ■cloisonne work, — small medallions w^ith the Shogun's crest. The style ■of decoration of the Shif-o-joi^i, the innermost suite of all, differs from the rest, the fusuma being of dull gold painted in sepia with Chinese scenes by Kano Koi. At the very ■end of the Palace is another great Audience Hall, called Chokiishi no Mtty or Apartment of the Imperial Ambassadors. It is resplendent with :gold and great trees — peach, maple, ■etc. — painted life-size, and has a beautiful coffered ceiling and gilt metal fastenings. The minor rooms passed just before reaching it, and decorated with wild geese and herons, were intended for DaimyOs to transact business in.

Katsnra no lUkyfi (Katsura Summer Palace).

Formerly this retreat belonged to Princess Katsura, a member of the Im- perial family. It has now l)een taken over as a summer i)alace or pleasure re- sort for the Mikado himsfelf .

The' building itself is a ram- shackle place, not differing in style from any ordinary Japanese house. Only those will care to inspect it to whom every pencil-stroke of the artists of the Kano school, especial- ly Kano Tan-yii, is precious. The walls are decorated by those artists, chiefy in sepia ; but most of the paintings are in a very bad state of preservation. The square bamboo frame to the r. on entering is called Tsuki-mi-daif that is, * the moon- gazing frame,' from the circumstance that it was used by the inmates

to sit out on and watch the moon rising over the pine-trees. The object of visiting this place is to see the Garden, which is a perfectly representative example of the best style of Japanese landscape gardening, as practised by Kobori Enshu and the other aristocratic en- thusiasts who, under the general name of cha-no-yu, or ' tea ceremo- nies,' cultivated all the arts from which esthetic enjoyment can be derived. All the summer-houses in. this garden are in the cha-no-yu style — very plain and primitive^ as its canons ordain. Then too there are pools, artificial streams, rustic bridges, .large stepping-stones brought from the two extremities of the Empire, trees trained in arti- ficial shapes, islets, moss-clad hil- locks, stone lanterns. The lake is full of a water-plant called kohone, which generally bears only yellow flowers, but here has red ones as well.

Toji.

A Buddhist temple was first erected on this site in the middle of the 8th century, but was converted in A,D. 794 into a place of entertainment for envoys from China and Korea. Two years later, it reverted to its original purpose, and being, in A.D. 82?}, bestowed by the reigning Mikado on Kobd Daishi, became the head-quarters of the Shingon sect of Buddhists whose doctrines that great saint had recently introduced from China. The buildings, which dated from 796, were burnt down in 1486. The present structures date fi-om about 1610. It was close to this temple that stood in ancient times the city gate called Ragha-r inon, the scene of a portion of the legend of the Ogre of Oeyama (see Route 47). Another legend attaches to the pagoda. This edifice, it is said, after completion, began to lean to one side. Kobo Daishi, nothing daunted, prayed that it might lie restored to the vertical position, and forth- with the pagoda stood straight. A mcnre rationalistic version of the story is that Kobo Daishi connected the tendency of the tower to lean to one side by digging a pond on the other; and a pond full of lotuses is shown to this day as a mute witness to the truth of the legend.

Tourists are advised to visit this temple on the 21st day of the month, when the festival of Kobo Daishi is held. Otherwise the place is apt to

298

Boute 43, — Kyoto,

look desolate, especially now that the disestablishment of Buddhism is causing all but a few of the most popular temples to fall into neglect and consequent decay. Most of the buildings are in a rude style, with mud floors, pillars and beams co- loured red with oxide of iron, and white plaster walls. Several of the images are attributed to the chisel of Kobd Daishi. The Keception Rooms of the monastery are very handsome, but special permission must be obtained in order to visit them.

The Sliliito Toiiiple of Inari {Inari no Yasliiro), on the road to Fushimi.

This popular Shinto temple, the proto- type of the thousands of Inari temples scattered all over the country, was founded in A.D. 711, when the Goddess of B.ice is said to have first manifested lierself on the hill behind. Kobo Daishi is said to have met an old man in the vicinity of Toji can-ying a sheaf of rice on his back, whom he recognised as the deity of this temple, and adopted as the 'Protector' of that monastery. Hence the name Inari, which signifies * Rice- mah,' and is written with two Chinese characters meaning 'Rice-bearing.' The first temple consisted of three small chapels on the three peaks of the hill liehind, whence the worship of the god- dess and her companion deities was removed to its present site in 1246. Inari is said to have assisted the famous smith Kokaji to forge one of his historical swords, and to have here cut the rock with it iu order to try its blade -a legend which :forms the subject-matter of one of the ilTo, or Lyric Dramas. Hence this temple is regarded with special reverence by smiths and cutlers. The Inari deities annually visit the Shinto temple of Ise, leaving Kyoto on the 2V>th April and re- turning on the 20th Ma.v, the journey being performed in their sacred cars. The best time to visit Inari is either on the 9th April, wlien the annual festival is held, or on the days of the Horse and Serpent in each month, when devotees xuHko the circuit of the mountain ( o yama mm). Streams of pilgiims may be found circulating up and down all night long on the night between these two days.

The chief entrance is by the great red toi'ii on the maiu road, then up a flight of steps, and* through a large gate flanked by huge stone foxes to the haidcii^ or oratory. Thence one comes to the chief chapel (hmi-

den), passing 1. the ex-voto shed an^ r. the kagura stage, and further oix two stone foxes on pedestals, pro- tected by cages to prevent tbemr from being defiled by birds. Tlie- pillars of the portal of the chief chapel are plain ; but the rest of the walls and pillars are painted red or- white. Curtains {misu) hang down: in front, and before each of the six compartments is suspended a larger- metal mirror about 18 in. in diame- ter. Two gilt koma-inu and ama- inn guard the extremities of the verandah. They have bright blue- manes, and on the legs, locks of hair tipped with bright green. Behind, to the r., is a white go- down in which the sacred cars ar& usually kept. They are celebrated for the great value of their decora- tions in gold, silver, copper, and iron. The plain building to the extreme 1. is the temple office (Sliamiisho) .

A path to the l! leads up to a- second level space where stand various insignificant shrines ; then up another flight of steps to a shrine called Ka%ni no Yashiro,. where begins what is termed the Hora-meguri, or * Circuit of the Mountain Hollows,' so called on ac- count of various fox -holes b^- the waj*. The beginning is marked by innumerable small red toHi, placed so close togellher as to form a regular colonnade. Kather than make the entire circuit, visitors pressed for time will do well to strike off r^ after a few minutes to a place where there is a little tea-house (Sasayama-tei) on the top of a minor hill commanding a good view. Tliis point can be reached in J hr. from the entrance to the temple grounds. The entire circuit- of the mountain will take at least 1 hr. On tlie way are passed large stone boulders with inscriptions,, and walls round them, and numer- ous torii in front of each. At each of these * boulder shrines ' is a lai*ge tea-shed. The top is called Ichd -no- mine, or more popularly Snehiro^

r

Inar

ri. TdfiiknjL Sen-yuji. San-ju-san -gen-do.

299

son. One descends another way,

the view just below the summit

being particularly fine towards the

S., including Uji with its river, the

Kizugawa, Momoyama, Fushimi,

.Yawata, Yamazaki, and on the

other side the swamp of Ogura, the

Kamogawa, the Katsura-gawa, and

the Yodogawa. On the way down

are a shrine called Chdja no Jinjaf

a number of sacred boulders as be-

foife, and some fox-holes called

O Samba, supposed to be the places

in which the vixens give birth to

their young. Just above the latter,

2 cho off the road, a fine view of the

city is obtained. The path is good

the whole way. The mountain is

celebrated for producing the best

mushrooms (viatsutahc) in Japan.

The streets in the neighbourhood

of the temple are crammed with

little earthenware dolls and effigies

called Fushimi ningyb.

Tof liknji, one of the chief monas- teries of the Zen sect, was founded by Shoichi Kokushi in the 13th cen- tury. It is noted for the maple- trees lining both sides of a gully which is spanned by a bridge or gallery called Tsu-ten-kyd, that is, *the bridge communicating with heaven.* This gallery and a tower, in the roof give io Tofukuji an o^ginal and striking appearance. Of the formerly very extensive buildings, only a few now remain. The temple contains some good wooden images, and a number of iakemonos of the Five HuAdred Bakan by the famous artist Cho Densu, who , spent several years here as an acolyte. But its greatest treasure is a huge kakemaiio by the same artist of Shaka's Entry into Nirvana (Neliatizd), 24 ft. by 48 ft. It is dated 1408, when the artist was 60 years old. In the Apart- ments, which were rebuilt in 1889, are some screens by Tosa Mitsunobu, Kano Eitoku, and Kano ^lotonori, together with kakemonos by good artists.

Sen-Tuji lies in a hollow sur- rounded by pine-clad hills. It is

remarkable as having been for over

six centuries (1244-1868) the burial- place of the Mikados ; but as neither their tombs nor tlie various treasures of the temple are shown, there is little object in visiting it. The glimpse which can be caught of the mortuary shrine of Komei Tenno, father of the present Mikado, shows it to be handsome.

The chief treasure of Sen- j uji is one of Buddha's teeth, said to have been brought from China by the third abbot, Tankai, The story ffoes that as soon as the Buddha died, a demon named Soshikki stole this tooth and ran away with it, but was pur- sued by the god Ida Ten, and forced to restore the precious relic. Sixteen centuries later he presented it to a Chinese priest to whom he was under an obligation, and from this priest it passed into Tankai's hands. It is kept in a beautifully designed reliquaiy of gilt metal in the shape of a pagoda, about 3 ft. lugh, the upper, part being of Chinese, and the platform on which it stands of Japanese workmanship, dating from the Ashikaga period (14th-16th centuries). The tooth is enonnous, and evidently lie- longed to some large quadruped, probably a horse.

The insignificant little wooden bridge passed between Tofukuji and Sen-yuji deserve a word of mention. It is called Yume no Uki'hashi, or the Floating Bridge of Dreams, and was the place where, on the occasion of an Imperial interment, the fruit, cakes, and other perishable offerings to a dead Mikado were thrown away into the rivulet below as the proces- sion inarched slowly at midnight towards the place of sepulture.

San-jfi-saii-gen-do, the Temple

of the 33,333 images of Kwannou,

the Goddess of Mercy.

Founded in 1132 by the ex-Kmperor Toba who placed in it 1,001 imatres of Kwannim, to which the Empei-or Go- Shirakawa after\%'ards added as many more in 1165, it was completely destroyed with all its contents in 1249. In 12«« the Kmperor Kameyama rebuilt it, and filled it with images of the Thousand-handed Kwannou to the number of 1,000. Its dimensions are 889 ft. by 57 ft. In IGO-J the Shogun letsuna restored the building, which takes its name, not from its length, but from *he thirty-three sjiaces between the pillars, which form a single i*ow from end to end.

800

Route 43, — Kyoto,

Few temples in Japan are more impressive than this, with its vast assemblage of gilded images rising tier behind tier. Each image is 6 ft. high, and all represent the Eleven-faCed Thousand-handed Kwannon. There are 1,000 of these, the total number of 33,333 being obtained by including in the com- putation the smaller effigies on the foreheads, on the halos, and in the hands of the larger ones. Three hundred of the large images were executed by Kokei and Koei, two hundred byUnkei, and the remainder by Shichijo Daibusshi. I'hough all represent the same divine person- age, it will be found that in spite of the general resemblance, no two have the same arrangement of hands and articles held in them. The large seated figure in the centre is also a Kwannon, while standing round it are Kwannon's eight-and- twenty followers (Biishu).'

Tradition says tliat the ex-Mikndo Go- Rliirakawa, . being troubled with severe headaches which resisted all the usual lemedies, made a pilgrimage to the temples of Kumano to pray for relief. He was directed by the gods to apply to a cele- brated Indian physician then resident at a temple in the capital. On returning he at once proceeded thither, *and engaged in prayer until midnight, when a monk of noble mien appeared, ami infonned him that in a previous state of existence His Majesty had been a_piou8 monk of Kiuna- no named Renge-bo, who for his merits had Ijeen promoted to the rank of Mikado in this present life ; but that his foimier 8knll was lying in the l)ottom of a i-iver still undissolved, and that out of it grew a willow-tree which shook whenever the wind ])lew, thereby causing His Majesty's head to ache. On awaking from this vision the ex-Mikado sent to look for the skull, and having found it, had it enclosed in the head of the principal Kwannon of tbis temi)le.

It used foiTuerly to lie the ciifttom for skilful archers to try how many aiTows they could shoot from one end to the other of the verandah on the W. front of the building This was called 6-i/a-kasu, or the ' gi-eatest iiuml^er of arroAvs.' In KWfi a retainer of the prince of Kisha is said to have won the prize, 8hfK)tiug 8,133 out of 15,053 arrows right to the end.

The grounds of the Sau-ju-san- geu-do will shortly contain a Fine Art Museum {BijtUsu-kican)^ . to be

completed in 1892. Also in the ssLxrtG

enclosure is the celebrated

l^aibiitsii, or Great Buddha.

In 1588 Hideyoshi built a temple to liold a large image of Roshana Butsu, the GrnX of Light, in imitation of Yoritomo, wbc^ had originated the project of constructinL^ a Daibutsu at Kamakura. The tenif>le was 2110 ft. from the ground to the rid^^^e of the roof, and the wooden image v(na» 160 ft. high. Both were destroyed hy sua. earthquake in 1596. In the following ye«tx- he rebuilt the temple, and placed in ±ti the famous triple image of Amida, Kwan- non, and Daiseishi, which he caused to ib© removed for this purpose from Zenkoji ; but after his death his widow restored it to the temple at Zenkoji, and set aboiit the construction of a new Daibutsu. Bjr the labour of several hundred workmen and artisans, a huge image was completecl up to the neck ; but as they were engaffed in casting its head, the scaffolding ac- cidentally took fire, and all efforts to ex- tinguish the flames, l)eing ineffectual, tbe temple was speedily burnt to ashes This disaster occmTed on the 15th January, 16i'3; but no attempts to repair it were ^nade until leyasu, in pursuance of Ms policy of weakening his young rival Hide- yori by inducing him to undert ke the reconstruction of famous buildings on a scale of magnificence calculated to ex- haust his finances, persuaded him and his mother that due regard for Hideyoshi's memory imposed upon them the obliga- tion of seeing that his intention of rearing a worthy fane to Buddha was not finally jfriistrated. They joyfully adopted the suggestion, and at ouce set alx)ut the restoration of both image and building on. the same colossal scale as before. By the spring of J 614 both were successfully completed, and the population of'»the capital and sun-ounding provinces flocked in crowds to witness the opening cere- mony. But the High Priests who, with the aid of a thousand bonzes of inferior gi-ade, were to ])erform the dedicatory service, had hardly taken their places and commenced to repeat their liturgies, when two mounted messengers suddenly arrived from the Shogun's Resident, with orders to interrupt the proceedings and forbid the consecration. The disorder that ensued among the assemblage, baulked of the sight for which many of them had come a long distance, and ignorant of the cause of this unexpected termination of their holiday, ended in a riot which the police were unable to repress, and the city is snid to have lieen actually sacked by the infuriated crowd of country people. It afterwards became known that leyasn. had taken offence at the wording of the inscription on the great l)ell, into which the characters forming his name were introduced, by way of mockery, as he pretended to think, in the phrase Kokht anld, * May the state be peaceful and pro»>

BuihuUn, KdshdjL Honhohiji.

801

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■

perous * (ka and Id being tjie Chinese for ie and yam) ; while in another sentence •which ran, ' On the east it welcomes the "brij^ht moon, and on the west bids fare- ^^ell to the setting sun,' he chose to dis- •cover a comparison of liimself to the lesser, and of Hideyori to the greater luminary, from which he then inferred -«,n intention on the part of Hideyori to attempt his destruction.

The dissensions of Hideyori' s stnicture •were : height 150 ft., length 272 ft., and <lepth 167i ft., while the roof was sup- |3orted by 92 pillars of from 4^ to 6s ft. in <liameter, composed of timbers bound together by stout iron rings, one or two •of which have been preserved. The seated figure of the Buddhgi was 68§ ft. high. In 1662 an earthquake destroyed both the building and the image, and the greater part of the latter was melted dowm into •copper coins. In 1667 a wtwden image of the same dimensions, lacquered a bronze colour, was constructed in its stead. This was damaged by lightning in 1775, but re- stored, only to be set on fire again by the same agency in 1708 and utterly con- sumed. The present image was built in 1801 at the expense of a public-spirited merchant of Osaka.

The Daibutsu consists only of a head and shoulders without a body ; but even so, it reaches to the ceiling of the lofty hall in which it is kept. The material is wood. The head is gilt, but not the shoulders. The dimensions are stated as follows : —

Height 58 ft.

Length of face 30 ,,

Breadth of face 21 „

Length of eyebrow .... 8 ,,

Lengtli of eye 6 ,,

Length of nose 9 „

Breadth of npstril 2 ,, 3 in.

Lengtli of mouth 8 ,, 7 „

Lengtli of ear 12 ,,

Breadth of shoulders . . 43 „

Round the walls hang 188 cheap modern pictures of Kwannon paint- ed on paper, each inscribed with a fttanza of poetry. There are also some large pieces of iron, relics of the pillars of the former building. At the top of a gallery behind the image is a rude altar containing a black image of Fudo, which Hide- joshi used to consider as his guar- dian spirit in battle. By going round this gallery, one seetf into the inside of the image, which is hollow

but contains a quantity of beam- work.

The huge Bell already alluded to is seen on quitting the Dai- butsu. It is nearly 14 ft. high, 9 in. thick, 9 ft. in diameter, and weighs over 63 tons, being thus one of the two biggest bells in Japan. Its companion in size is at Chion- in, also in Kyoto. That at !Nar& comes third. The Daibutsu bell hangs in a new belfry dating from 1884, the ceiling of which is gaudily decorated with paintings of Bud- dhist angels.

The new Shinto shrine, called Toyokiini no YashirOj near to the belfry on the 1. as one departs, is dedicated to Hideyoshi, who was buried on a hill close, by. The handsome gate, which is an old one, was brought from his palace of IMomoyama at Fushimi.

Opposite is the Mimi-ztiJca, or Ear Mound, beneath which were buried the ears and noses of Koreans slain in the war which Hideyoshi waged against their coun- try in the years 1592 and 1597. I They were brought home by his i soldiers instead of the more usual ! trophies of heads, as evidence of the exploits performed in his service.

I KOshoji, a large temple next door I to the Nishi Hongwanji (see next I page), was founded in the 15th cen- ' tury, but the present buildings date only from the i8th century. The in- terior of the building is 28yds. square, ! and is in the same style as the !Nishi ; Hongwanji. In the Apartments I are to be seen good paintings of storks by Kano Eitei, of about the year 1700, and a suite of three side- rooms containing paintings by ar- tists of the Shijo school.

Honkokliji, close to the Nishi Hongwanji on the N., is remarkable chiefly for the vast area over which. its buildings are scattered, and for the fact that it was the flrst monastery founded by Nichiren when he e&- tablished the sect which bears his name.

d02

Iloute 43. — Kyoto,

Nishi Hoii^Tnnji, the head- quarters of the Western branch of the Hongwanji sect of Buddhists, is a grand massive structure, as usual with the temples of this sect. The principal gate is decorated with beautifully carved designs of the chrj-santhemum flower and leaf. The wire netting covering its inte- Tior part is placed there, as in a good many other edifices, in order to prevent birds from building their nests among the ' rafters. The ap- parently useless wall just inside the gate ser\'es the purpose of securing privacy for the temple by shutting out the view from the street. The large tree (a Gingko bUoba, Jap. ichd) in the courtyard is supposed to protect the temple against fire, by discharging showers of water whenever a conflagration in the vicinity threatens danger. The interior of the main building is 138 ft. in length by 93 ft. in depth, and the floor covers an area of 477 mats. As usual in the tem- ■ pies of this sect, the nave (gejin) is perfectly plain, of keyaki wood, vrith white plaster walls. R. and 1. of the chancel are two spacious cham- bers 24 ft. by 36 ft., with gilt pillars and walls, decorated with the lotus- flower and leaf. In them hang large kakenwnos nearly 200 years old, inscribed with invocations to Amida in large gold characters on a dark blue ground surrounded by a glory, and portraits of the succes- sive Heads of the sect. The front of the nave is completely gilt, and has gilt trellised folding- doors and sliding screens decorated with snow scenes, representing the plum- tree, pine, and bamboo in their winter covering, the ramma being filled with gilt open-work carvings of the peony. The cornice is decorat- ed with coloured arabesques. In the centre of the chancel (nai- jin) is the shrine, covered with gilt and painted carved floral designs. It contains a seated elhgy in black wood of the Founder about 2 ft. high, said to be from his own hand.

Before it stands a wooden altar, the- front of which is divided into small panels of open-work flowers and birds against a gilt back-ground. This central apartment has a fine cornice of gilt and painted wood- work, and a coffered ceiling with the shippo and Juina crest on a gold ground. The dim light renders- much of the detail obscure. The building was erected about 1591 or 1592, and the decorations have been since renewed every 50 years.

Next to the main temple, but of smaller dimensions, is the Kddo or Amida-ddj 96 ft. wide by 87 ft. in depth, divided in the same way, but having only one apartment, 30 ft. by 36 ft., on each side of the central chapel, with a dead-gold wall at the back, and a coffered ceiling with coloured decorations on paper. Fancy portraits of Shotoku Taishi and the * Seven Great Priests of India, China and Japan,' including Honen ShOnin, founder of the Judo sect, from which the Shin or Hon- gwanji sect is an offshoot, hang in those two apartments. A handsome shrine, with slender gilt pillars and a design composed of the chrysan- themum flower and leaf, contains a gilt wooden statuette of Amida^ about 3 ft. high, so much discol- oured by age as to look quite black. It is attributed to the famous sculp- tor Kasuga Busshi. Over the gilt carvings of tree-peonies in the ramma are carvings of angels in full relief. A sliding-screeu close to the ^ entrance on the r. of the altar,, painted with a peacock and pea-hen on a gold ground, perched on a peach-tree with white blossoms, by one of the Kano school, is worth special notice. Application should bo made for permission to visit the State Apartments, which are very fine. On the way in are some slid- ing panels by Kano Eitoku, which were brought from Hideyoshi's castle at Fushimi. The largest room (Taimmjo)j 69 ft. deep and 54 ft. wide, has good paintings on the walls by Kano Hidenobu ; the

Nishi and Higashi HongicanjL

303-

storks in the ramma are attributed to Hidari Jingoro. Next comes a small room with bamboos on a gold ground, and a coffered ceiling with Horal paintings, by artists of the Xano school. Another room has liirall-paintings of geese in all posi- tions on a gold ground. It must be noted, however, tjhat these paintings are on large sheets of paper, which have been fixed in their places after having been executed in a horizon- tal position.

True wall-paintin<?s, thnt is, paintings executed <>u a vertical surtace, are extreme- ly rare in Japan, the only well-authen- ticated examples known to us being* the series of paintings on l,acquer at the bade of the main altar in the temple of Kwan- uon at Asakusa in Tokyo, those on plaster in the Kondo of the mona^steiy of Horyuji iM>ar Nara, and some in the lower storey of the pagoda of Toji.

The room beyond is decorated with chrysanthemums on the walls, and fans in the compartments of the ceiling. We next pass through an apartment decorated with pea- cocks and cherry-trees, and gilt carvings of the wild camellia and phoenix in the rmmna ; then a room with Chinese landscapes on a gold ground, and carvings of wistaria in the ravimtty and another with Chinese architectural scenes and landscapes. These form the suite called O- biroma, or Chief Audience Room, and the paintings are from the brush of Hasegawa Ryokei. In the court- yard opposite to this suite, is a stage for the performance of the No. Passing a small room decorated with Chinese hunting scenes, and pro- ceeding along a corridor, we reach an apartment called Taiko Knbi- jikken no May that is,, the room where Hideyoshi used to inspect the heads of his opponents killed in battle, also from the castle of Fu- shimi, with drums painted on the ceiling and gilt open-work carvings of the fi34ng squirrel and grapes in the ramma.

Leaving the Apartments, we cross a small court to the gateway known as the Clwhushi Mon^ or Gate of the Imperial Messenger, formerly

sparkling with gold, but now some- what faded. The carvings are at- tributed to Hidari Jingoro. The figure on the transverse panels is Kyo-yo (Hsii-yu), a hero of early Chinese legend, who, having rejected the Emperor Yao's proposal to resign the throne to him, is rejpresented washing his ear at a waterfall to get rid of the pollution caused by the ventilation of so preposterous an idea ; the owner of the cow opposite is supposed to have quarrelled with him for thus defiling the stream, at which he was watering his beast. The buildings in foreign style hard bythe Nishi Hongwanji, just out- side what is knowil as the Daido- koro-Mon, or Kitchen Gate, are a seminary for young priests and a girls' school, both under the con- trol of this temple, and both im- parting a modern education. If time permits, the traveller may end his inspection of the Hongwanji by going over the Hi-tm-kaku, or Pavi- lion of the Flying Clouds, removed here from Hideyoshi's Palace of Momoyama at Fushimi. In one of the upper rooms is a sketch on a gold-paper ground, attributed to- Kano Motonobu (but more probably by Kano Eitoku), called the Gydgl no Fuji, or Fuji of Good Manners, because the outlines can hardly be distinguished unless the spectator takes up a respectful attitude on the floor.

Hi^ashi Hongwanji.

This, an offshoot of the Nishi Hongwanji, was founded iu 1602, and destroyed by lire in 1S64 during the unsuccessful attempt maxle by the followers of the Prince of Choshu to seize the person of the Mikado. The new ediiice now in process of erection is expected to be completed in 1892.

Though as j-et unfinished, thi» temple well deserves a visit on account of its noble proportions, and as showing what a fine Buddhist temple looks like when new. When completed, it will probably be the largest Buddhist temple in Japan. So far as plan and style are con- cerned, the orthodox model of the

604

Route 43. — Kyoto.

temples of this sect has been faith- fully adhered to, both in tlie Daishi- doy or Founder's Hall (the main building), and in the subsidiary Amida-db. Note the splendid bronze lanterns, four in number, at the entrance. The wood of all such portions of the temple as are meant ultimately to meet the eye is keyaki ; the beams in the ceiling are of pine. There are some good carvings of the signs of the zodiac, of waves, of bamboos, etc. The chief dimensions of the main build- ing are approximately as follows :

Length 210 ft.

Depth 170 „

Height 120 „

Number of large pillars . . 96

„ tiles on roof. . 103,612

Notwithstanding what has often been said with regard to the decay of Japanese Buddhism, the rebuild- ing of this grand temple has been and continues to be a strictly popu- lar enterprise. All the surrounding provinces have contributed their quota — vast sums in the aggregate — ^while many peasants, considering gifts in kind to be more honourable and; as it were, more personal than gifts in money, have presented timber or other materials. The name of the architect of the main building is Ito Heizaemon, a native of Owari. The Amida-do is by Ki- noko Tosai, a citizen of Kyoto.

Ketininji, a monastery of the Zen sect, founded by the abbot Eisai in 1203, has little, from a tourist's point of view, to justify its local celebrity. The grounds are extensive, and contain numerous suites of apartments for the use of tlie monks, who have the reputation of profound Buddhistic learning. . A fair for the sale of * old clo,' is held here on the 10th of evei7 month.

From the name of tin's temple i'r derived the term kenninJU applied to fences of split bamboois fastened dose together against horizontal laitens,

Nislii Otani is the burial-place of the larger portion of the body of

Shinran Shonin, transferred here in 1603 from a spot now included withixi the grounds of Chion-in. The stone bridge spanning the lotus-pond, is termed Megane-hash% from its re- semblance to a pair of spectacles. Several of the ornamental knobs on the balustrade can be turned round. A flight of steps leads to tlie hand- some main gate, inside \YhicfaL ]. stands, as usual in the temples of this sect, the Taiko-dd, a hand- somely carved two-storied structure^ which is used as a place of confine- ment for refractory priests, and re- ceives its name from the drum (taiko) which they are set to beat as a penance. There are some hand- some bronzes in front of the main temple, a new building, plain out- side, but with a sufficiently hand- some interior, a striking effect being produced by the restriction of gold ornamentation to the vicinity of the altar. A gilt figure of Amida stands in a gold lacquer shrine.

In the court behind is an office for the reception of the ashes of mem- bers of the sect from all parts of the country, whose relations pay to have their remains deposited with those of Shinran Sbonin, instead of going to the expense of a monu- ment in the adjacent cemetery. The Kyoto members, on the contrary, are interred in the cemeter5\ Oppo- site is the oratory in front of the tomb, which is so concealed behind a triple fence as to be invisible. The path up the hill leads through the ceme- tery to the W. gate of

Kiyoniizii-dera.

The origin of this temple is lost in the mists of anti(]uc fable. According to the legend, the novice Enchin, having dreamt that he saw a golden stream flowing down into the Yotloga wa, went in search of it, and ascending to its soiirce, found there an old man sitting under a tree, who gave his name as Gyoei, and said : ' I have been here for the last two hundred years repeating the invocation to Kwan- non, and waiting for you to relieve me. Take my place for a while, that I may perform a journey which is required ci me. Tliis is a suitable spot for the erec^ tion of a hermitage, and the log which you see lying liere wiU supply the

Kitjomizu-dera, Yasaha Pagoda.

305

material for an image of tho Most Com- passionate One,' (i.e. Kwannou). With these words he disappeared, leaving the novice in charge of tne solitude. After a while, finding that the old man did not return, Knchm climbed a neighbouring hill, and discovered a pair of shoes lying on its summit, from which he inferred that the mysterious old man was none other than Kwannon in human form, who had left the shoes behind on re-ascending to heaven. He now detennined to make the image of the gotl, but foiind his strength' insufficient, and passed seve- ral years looking at the log, vainly plan- ning how to overcome the difficulty . Twenty years had elapsed, when one day good luck guided the warrior Sakanoe- no-Tamura-Maro, who was in pursuit of a stag, t-o this very spot. While he was rest- ing, fgnchin represented his difficulties to the hunter, who was struck with ad- miration at the untiring devotion of the novice, and subsecpiently, having taken counsel with liis wife, gave his own house to be pulled down and re-erected by the side of the cascade as a temple for the image, which was now at last completed.

A steep street of shops, where little earthenware dolls (Fushlmi ningyo) of every variety are to be had, leads up to the temple, which is situated in a striking position on the hill-side and commands a justly celebrated view of the city. The two-storied gateway at the top of the steps dates from the Ashikaga period, and contains a pair of huge Ni-o. One may pass either through it, or tlirough another gate higher up which abuts on the three-storied Pagoda. To the 1. of and beyond the Pagoda are several minor cha- pels. The visitor then passes up through a colonnade to the hon- do or main temple, whose rough- hewn columns and bare floor pro- duce an unusual impression. In- deed .the whole aspect of Kiyomizu is unique and original, notwith- standing a certain dowdiness which seems to have settled down upon it. Tlie main temple is dedicated to the Eleven-faced Thousand-hand- ed Kwannon, whose seated image, a little over 5 ft. high, is contained in a shrine that is opened only once in thirty three years. R. and 1. are images of the Eight-and- twenty followers of Kwannon, and at each end of the platform stand two of the

Shi-TennO. The shrine at the E. end contains an image of Bishamon,. who, as tradition tells us, appeared to Tamura-Maro, in company with Jizo (whose image, attributed to the sculptor Enchin, is enclosed in the W. shrine), and promised him aid in his expedition against the Ainos of N.E. Japan. Pictures of the three hang at one end of the inner chapel. The building is 190^ ft. long by 88^ ft. in depth, and 5:i ft. in height from the platform. It has a wooden platform in front, called the butai (dancing stage), supported on a lofty scafiolding of solid beams, and two small pro- jecting wings which serve as or- chestra (gakuya). An open hall full of ex-voto pictures, extending the whole length of the front, abuts on the dancing stage. To it suc- ceeds a long narrow matted corridor called the naijiuj while the closed chamber which contains the shrines is called nai-naijin ; the front part of this is sunk below the floor and paved with squared stones. Lights are always kept burning in the temple, and worshippers pass in and out all night. A feature adding to the peculiar aspect of the place is the abyss which divides the main temple from the Ohu-no-in dedi- cated to Kwannon, which is built out from the opposite hill on piles. It stands on the site of Gyoei's hut. Below is a small cascade called the Otoica no t<alci. On the hill to tho 1. are various smaller shrines.

The Yasnka Pagodn, five storeys high, is worth ascending for the sake of the near and complete view which it affords of the city ; but the ladder-like staircase is unpleasantly steep for ladies. This pagoda, like many others in Japan, is dedicated to four Nyorai, namely, Ho jo on the S., Amida on tho W., Ashuku on the E., and Shaka on the N. On the eight panels of the doors are paintings on a thin coating of plaster. Of the four images, that of Shaka alone is old. On the in-

W6

Route 43. — Kijoto,

terior walls and pillars are paint- ings of various Buddhist deities.

This pa^roda i'h mid to have been founded hv Shotoku Taisbi about the end of the '6th cenlur}'. but another account makes it date from 679. The present building dates from 1618.

Kodaiji, noted for its relics of Hideyoshi, belongs to the Iliuzai branch of the Zen sect.

Founded in A.D. 888, it underwent mnny vicissitudeii, and was relniilt in 1605 by Hideyoshi's widow, in order that services nii$rht be peiforraed there for the benefit of the souls of Hideyoshi and his mother. In 1863 8ome rdnins set the principal l)uild- ingson fire, because it was announced .that the ex-Prince of Echizen, whom they looked upon as an enemy of the Mikado's party, was about to take up his (quarters there. The greater part of the buildings pprish- ed on this occasion ; but some few por- tions, together with the fine garden, still remain.

The visitor is first ushered into the Apartments, which, though of of modest proportions, contain some good works of art. There are gold screens by Kano Motonobu, Kano Koi, and Hasegawa Tohaku. One by Matahei is very curious, as representing the arrival of Korean envoys at Sakai in Japan, while a brilliant but anonymous halccmono <lepicts the Chinese emperor Shin- no-Shiko. There are also various relics of Hideyoshi and his wife — his writing-box in mother-of-pearl the black lacquered * horse * on which she hung her clothes, etc.

From the Apartments the acolyte who acts as cicerone will show the way to the Garden^ which was de- signed by the celebrated esthete, Ko- bori Enshii. Its picturesque effect is much heightened by the two lofty pine-clad hills that rear their heads -over the trees at the back. We next pass up a gallery, which was brought from Hideyoshi's palace -of Momoyama. Hideyoshi used to sit on the little square in the middle of this gallery to gaze at the moon. Then one comes to the Kaisan-doj or Founder's Hall, the painted ornamentation •of which is highly original in style. The ceiling is made of the top

of Hideyoshi's wife's carriage, from a portion of the roof of Uie war-junk prepared for Hideyosbi's use in his expeditions against Korea. The four panels of the shrine wero painted by Kano Motonobu. A curious incense-burner in front of the little altar was brought from Korea by Kato Kiyomasa, and is shaped like an octopus. The dragon on the ceiling is by Kano Eitoku. From the Founder's Hall we i)ass up another covered gallery named the Gwaryd no Boka, that is, the Corridor of the Sleeping Dragon, to the O Tamaya^ or Mortuary Chapel, which contains a seated effigy of Hideyoshi in a shrine having panels of black lacquer with designs in thin gold taken from his wife's caniage. The hat was one given to him by the Emperor of China. On the opposite side is the effigy of his wife (Kita-no-Mando- koro) in the gArb of a Buddhist nun. The Thirty-six Poets, by Tosa !Mitsunobu, hang round the walls. Four sliding screens by Kano Moto- nobu, much injured by time, are also shown. Note the gold pattern on the black lacquer steps inside the altar. It represents rafts and fallen cherr^'-blossoms floating down the current of a river. The way leads down the gallery again, and so out. The guide may offer to take the traveller up to the Shigttre no Chin and Karahasa 'no Chin on the hill behind ; but they are not worth spending time over, being mere little thatched summer-houses, old and quite abandoned.

Shogrnii-znkA is about 570 ft. above the river.

It takes its name, which means the GeneraliHsimoV Mound, from the tisdition that when the Emperor Kwammu removed his capital to its present situation, he buried here the efii^ry of a warrior in full armour, provided with a bow and arrows, to act as the protecting deity of the new city.

This eminence commands a wide prospect over the city and sur- rounding country, up to the monn- tains bounding the province of Yami^

Shoyim-zuJca, HiyasJd Otani, Gion,

307

shiroontheW.andN. Just below are the two-storied gateway of Chion-in And the temple of Gion, from which Shijo Street can be traced right across the city. Above the Shijo bridge are the Sanjo and Nijo bridges, below it that of Gojo. The high mountain with a clump of trees on its top bearing nearly N.W. is Atago-yama. A long white wall under it indicates Ninnaji or Omuro Oosho, to be recognised also by its pagoda. In front of this again is the Nijo Palace. By following the line of the Nijo bridge we perceive the garden of what was formerly the Palace of the abdicated Mikado, and behind it the Palace of the reign- ing Mikado. ■ A little W. of N. is the broad bed of the Kamogawa ; at the base of the mountain range from which this river issues lies the temple of Kami-Gamo, beyond w^hich is the mountain road to Kurama. At the junction of the Kamogawa and Hirano-gawa is a dense grove which conceals the temples of Shimo'Gamo and Kawai. The summit of Hiei- zan bears N.E. by N. Half-way be- tween its foot and the spectator lie Kurodani with its pagoda and nu- merous buildings, and the large roof of Shinnyo-do with its pagoda further \V. Nearer is the two- storied gate of Nanzenji, half -hidden among the trees. A little S. of W. are the two high roofs of Nishi Hongwanji and the single large hall of Koahoji. A little further S. is the pagoda of Toji beyond the rail- way station, and S.W. in the far distance are Tenno-zan at the end of the Western Hills (Nishiyaina), above Yamazaki station, and the Yodogawa flowing gently along its half-choked bed towards the sea. Prom the E. brow of the hill the view commands the Tokaidd and the railway winding round the base of the opposite range.

Nearer than Shogun-zuka to the city proper, is Mariiyaina, a suburb almost exclusively occupied by tea-houses — the resort of holiday- makers bent on dancing, drinking,

or bathing. Some may find it more convenient to visit the Higashi Ota- ni, Gion, and Chion-in temples first, and to take ISIaruyama and Shogun- zuka afterwards.

Higashi Otani, is the burial-place of a portion of the remains of Shin- ran Shonin, founder of the Monto or Hongwanji sect, of Kennyo the founder of this its Eastern branch, and of Kennyo's successors the later abbots. The grounds are extensive, and finely situated on & hill-side facing Atago-yama and Kurama-yama. An avenue of pine- trees leads up to the gateway, which is decorated with good carvings of chrysanthemums. The chapel (hon- do), though small, is a glorious specimen of Buddhistic art, — lovely in its rich simplicity of gold with no other colours to distract the eye. On the altar is a wooden statuette of Amida by the sculptor Kwaikei. In a shrine at the side hangs a portrait of Shinran Shonin. Observe the * wheel of the law,' repeated nine times on the frieze above the ma{n altar. A flight of steps behind the chapel leads up to the tomb, in front of which stands a beautiful gate carved by Hidari Jingoro. The panels at the sides of this gate, originally gilt, represent 1. the carp ascending a cascade — the symbol of effort and success in life — and r. the lioness casting her cub down & precipice in order to harden it, both favourite motives with the artists of Japan. On the top of the tomb lies a remarkable stone called the ' tiger-stone ' (tora-ishi). The ar- rangements for interring members of the sect are similar to those at the Nishi Otani (see p. 304). In the grounds near the chapel i^ a splendid bronze fountain, lotus- shaped with a dragon rampant atop. As in the Nishi Otani temple, so here too there is a Taiko-db for the confinement of refractory priests.

fiion no Yashiro, less often called Yasaka no Yashb'o, stands close to Higashi Otani.

808

Bonte 43. — Kyoto,

This Shinto temple is said to have Ijeen founded in A.D. 656 by a Korean envoy in honour c.f Busano-o. Gion-ji Mras the name given to a Buddhist temple dedicated to Yakushi and.Kvran- non which stood in the same enclosure, and by popular usage the name Grion came to be applied to the ShintS temple as well. Oiont it may be observed for the sake of those familiar with Indian Buddhism, is the Japanese rendering of Jefacann Vikdroy the namo of the park or monastery presented to Buddha by Anathapindaka.

Though widely known and much frequented by worshippers, this temple produces an impression of shabbiness. The chief building (honden) is 69 ft. long by 57 ft. in depth, and is roofed with a thick layer of bark. The annual festival takes place on the 15th June.

Cllion-in, the principal monastery of the Jodo sect, stands on a hill in Eastern Kyoto in a situation recall- ing that of many fortresses. Near its gate in Awata-guchi is the cele- brated pottery of Kinko-zan..

This temple was founded in 1211 l>y Enko Daishi, also knowfi as Hd- nen ShSnin. He was ]x)m in 1133 of respectable parents in the province €jf Mimasaka, and various portents are said to have accompanied his birth. At the age of nine he was entered as a pupil at a seminary in his native pro- vince ; but his teacher, recognising his exceptional powers, sent him up to the great monastery on Hiei-zan in 1 147, witli ft letter containing only these words: 'I send you an image of the gi'cat sage liouju.' On the letter being presented, the priest to whom it was addressed asked where the image was, and was much astonished when the child alone api)eared before him. But the young novice soon justified the implied estimate of his gi-eab intellectual powers, and made such mpid progress in his studies that at the end of the same year ho was judged fit to Ik; admitted to the priesthood. The prospect was held out to him of ultimately obtain- ing the headship of the Tendai sect, but "he preferred to devote himself to the study of tneology, and finally developed a special doctrine of salvntion, or the road to the •Pure Land,' from which the new sect was named Jodo^ this wonl having the same ' meaning as the Sanskrit Sukhacdfi or *Pure Land,' the heaven of Amida. In 1207 he settled at Kyoi^o near the site of the present mcmastery, and there breathed liis last in A.D. 1212 at the age of 79.

TJhe buildings were twice destroyed by fire in the 15tn century and once again in the beginning of the 16th. loyasu rebuilt

the monastery in 1003, but it was burnt again in 163;(, with the cxcention of the two-storied entrance-gate, the libraiy, and the Seishi-do. Its restoration was im- mediately commenced, and in 1630, during the reign of lemitsu, the whole was com- pleted.

A broad avenue between banks planted with cherry-trees leads up to the main entrance, or Savimcni^ a huge two-storied structure 81 ft. by 37^ ft., the total height from th& ground being 80 ft. A staircase oa the S. side gives access to the upper storey, which contains images of Shaka, with Sudatta and Zenzai Doji on his r. and h, and beyond them on each side eight Bakan in elaborate dresses, all- about life- size, the work of a carver of Bud- dhist images named Koyu. The cor- nices and cross-beams are richly decorated with coloured arabesques, geometrical patterns, and fabu- lous animals. The ceilings, w^hich lose their effect by being too low, have dragons and angels ou a yellow ground. The gallery out- side commands a charming view of the city through the pine-tree tops, while to the N. towards Hiei-zan the prospect is wonderfully beauti- ful. At the S. end there is another pretty view of the densely wooded hills. Two flights of steps, one steep, the other rising gentlj'-, conduct us to the great court, and to the front of the Ilonddy or ^lain Temple. On the r., on a small elevation among the trees, stands the bell-tower, completed in IBIS, containing the Gj-eat Belly height 10.8 ft., diameter 9 ft., thickness 9h in., weight 125,000 catties (nearly 74 tons), cast in 1633. The Hondo, which faces S., is 167 ft. in length by 138 ft. in depth, and 94^ ft. in height from the ground, thus being the largest building of the kind in Kyoto. It is dedi- cated to Enko Daishi, whose shrine stands on a stage, called the Shu- mi-dan, at the back of the chancel, within a space marked off by four tall gilt pillars. The gilt metal lotuses in bronze vases.

Chion-in, Awata Palace,

809

which, stand before the front pillars, reach a height of 21 ft. from the floor, being nearly half the height of the building. The dimensions and the confinement of decoration to this single part render this interior very effective. On the W. of the chief shrine is a second con- taining memorial tablets of leyasu and his mother and of Hidetada, while on the opposite side (E.) are Amida in the centre and the memo< rial tablets of successive abbots. Under the eaves of the front gallery is an umbrella, said to have flown thither from the hands of a boy whose shape had been assumed by the Shinto god of Inari, guardian deity of this monastery.

!Bast of the Main Temple is the liibrary, containing a complete copy of the Buddhist canon. Behind the Main Temple, and connect- ed with it by a gallery, is the .Shueidoy containing two good altars, one of which holds Amida by Eshin Sozu, with Kwannon and Seishi r. and 1., the other a very large gilt Amida by the brothers Kebunshi and Kebundo. To the r. of the big image sits Monju in the costume of a priest. After viewing these, one is shown over the Goterij or Palace built by lemitsu, which is divided into Jwo parts, called re- spectively the O'Hojd and Ko-Hojo. The decorations on the sliding screens by artists of the Kano school arfe very fine. There are two rooms painted with cranes and pine-trees by Naonobu ; then other rooms with pine-trees only, by Naonobu and Nobumasa, once occupied by the Mikado. At the place where the sets of apart- ments meet is a wooden door with a cat, much admired by the Japanese because it appears to front the spectator from whatever point of view he may observe it. One fine room by Eitoku has snow scenes, unfortunately somewhat faded. The next room, also adorned with snow scenes, was the reception room of the Imperial Prince who

acted as high priest (Kwacho-nO" Miya). The Sixteen Bakan in the next room to this are by Nobumasa. Returning to the back of the O- Hojo, we reach a ^mall eight-matted room decorated by Naonobu with the plum and bamboo, which is called Miya Sama no o Tokudo no Ma^ that is, *the room in which the Prince was initiated into the priesthood.* The chrysanthemums in the room next to this are by Nobumasa, by whom too are the celebrated sparrow (nuke- suzume) which flew through the screen after it was painted, and the i-naori no sagi, or * egret in the act of rising.' In the verandah are a pair of wooden doors painted with pine-trees, which are said to have been so life-like as to exude resin. After these come rooms by Tan-yii, with willow-trees and plum-blossoms covered with snow. The monastery is rich in MSS. which, however, can only be seen by making application through the city authorities. The tomb of Enko Daishi is situated further up the hill, and is reached by ascending the steps E. of the Hondo. Close to Chion-in is the

Awata Palace (Aivata no Goten),

It was first built as a place of retirement for the Emperor Seiwa in A.D. 879, after his abdication of the throne. He died here in the following year. The present build- ings are of more modem date.

The Apartments have sliding screens by artists of the Kano school, — Eitoku, Mitsunobu, Moto- nobu, etc. — some much faded, others beautifully preserved. There are also beautiful gold folding screens by Tankei Moriyoshi, Boku- shinsai, and others. Several of the wooden doors connecting the various suites have quaint coloured paint- ings of the cars (dashi) used at the Gion festival. The garden was planned by Soami.

On the way to Nanzenji one passes whdt looks like a railway, but is really only a portage between the two sections of the Lake Biwa Canal, where the boats which navi- gate on either side are placed on

810

Route 43. — Kyoto.

tracks and rolled along for a few hundred yards. Through the grounds of Nanzenji, too, passes the aqueduct that conveys water from Otsu to Kyoto, a red brick structure whose arches rather add to than deteriorate from the pic- turesqueness of the place.

Nanzenji.

This temple of the Rinzai division of the Zen sect originally belonged to Mii- dera at 5tsu; but about 12B0 the ex- Emperor Kameyama appropriated it for his own residence, and in 1289 converted it into a monastery of the Zen sect. The present main temple was built by leyasu in 1606. The two-storied gateway facing W., 66 ft. by 32 ft, was built in 1628 by Todo Takatora, prince of Tsu in Ise, at the cost of a year's revenue. The famous robber Ishikawa Goemon is said to have made his residence in the gate-house which pre- ceded the present building.

The Hatto, as the main temple is called, produces a somewhat strik- ing eifect, on account of its mixture of richness and simplicity, the dark blue tiled floor picked out with white and the plain brown wooden columns contrasting with the rich red and black altar and the gold of the images enthroned aloft thereon. These images represent Shaka, Fu- gen, and Monju, flanked by the Ni-6 lacquered with vermilion brought from Korea, as were also the two bronze bowl-shaped gongs in front. £. of the altar are the original founder of the Zen sect (the Chinese Hui-k'o), Daruma, Binzai Zenji, originator of the subdivision of the Zen sect called after his name, and Nannin Kokushi, the * second founder,* or restorer of the mon- astery in modem times. In the un- usually large two-storied gate-way are Shaka and the Sixteen Rakauy the colours in good preservation. The cornice and wall-plate are gor- geously decorated with coloured diapers and arabesques. On the cross-beams are painted the unicorn (Jcirin) and flying dragon ; on the ceiling, the phoenix and angels in subdued colours on a pale yellow ground. The whole interior presents a magnificent example of this style

of decoration. In two small black lacquered shrines are kept effigies of Takatora and leyasu.

Eikwando, a temple of the Jodo sect on the flank of Higashi-yamck,. is specially worth visiting in tl^e lotus or the maple season ; and those interested in Buddhist legends will like to see the famous image coHedi Mi-kaeri no Amidaj or Amida Looking over his Shoulder.

Originally founded about the middle of the 9th century, this temple was restored, by the priest Eikwan (b. 1032, d. 1111), whence its present name.

The main temple, in which the image stands, was repaired about ten years ago in handsome style. The image is 2^ ft. high, the drapery well-rendered, the head half turned round to the 1. as if looking back- wards. It is kept enclosed in a shrine on the main altar, and those desirous of seeing it must apply to the priest in charge. The image will then be unveiled with some little pomp and circumstance, lights lighted, and a bell rung, while the priest mounts up on the altar beside the image and recites the legend. A curtain is then drawn up, and the image stands revealed in a dim reli- gious light.

The legend is that Eikwan, who used to spend his time in walking round the image repeating the formula Namu Amida, one day heard his name called twice or thrice, and looking round perceived the image with its f a«e turned in h\p direction* and so it has remained fixed until this day. Eikwan*8 own statue is one of those placed to the r. of the altar and a little behind it, so that Amida now perma- nently looks in his direction. A sequel to the legend says that a certain Daimyd, Lord of Akashi, having doubted the imi^e's power, struck it on the r. side in order to see what would happen, when blood flowed from the wound down on to its breast.

Knrodani is a monastery of the Jodo sect, beautifully situated on the side of a hill.

It stands on the spot where the founder, Honen Shdnin, built his humble cabin on abandoning the Tendai school of Hiei-san, and is named after the * black ravine ' od that mountain, where he had previondy resided. The monastery of Kurodani mw

Kurodanu

811

b«^un at the end of the 13th century, and gradual additions were made until it was completed in the beginninsr of the 16th. After being destroyed by fire and rebuilt two or thi-ee successive times, the whole establishment was re-erected in the latter part of the 18th century. ■ The chief his- torical interest of Kurodani is its connection With the true aod touching stoiy of Kuniagai Xaozane (see p. 42), who here ex- cbanfred the sword of the soldier for the xnonk*s rosary and life-long penance.

In front of the main temple are two beautifully _ trained pine- trees, — one called Ogi iio Matsic because fan-shaped, " the other to the r., Yoroi-kali^-nuUsu because Kaozane is said to have hung up bis armour on it. The altar of the main temple is a truly grand mass of gold, with a gold baldachin in tbe centre, while all round hang beautiful silk banners (maru-bata) and the metal ornaments known as Iceman, which represent the head- dresses of fairies. A richly gilt shrine contains the effigy of Ho- nen Shonin, carved by himself in 1207, and first brought to this monastery in 1609 ; it is a seated wooden figure with the paint rubbed ofl by frequent cleaning. Two long lacquered boards, with texts containing the fundamental truths of the sect, hang on the pillars r. and 1. of the altar. Behind the altar in the gallery is a large bold picture of Seishi Bosatsu, called liappd shdmen, because the eyes seem to look straight at the beholder wherever he stands. It is by Tansaku. Some very large and splendid hake- vwnos are hung up in this temple from time to time. One is a painted maiidara, that is to say, a representation of the Buddhist paradise with its complicated ar- rangement of * many mansions.' It is a modern copy of a very celebrated piece of embroidery in lotus threads by Taema Chujo-Hime. The other, dating from 1669, is embroidered, and is a magnificent specimen of that art. It represents Buddha's Entry into Nirv&na (Nehanzd),

In the Apartments, which are fine ^uid spacious, a number of works of

art are preserved. There are some, fine black and gold sliding screens by Kubota Beisen representing a ter- rific dragon, a folding screen by Tosa- no-!Mitsuoki with scenes from the Genji Moiiogatarij a curious kake- ino7io of the mourning for Honen Shonin by his disciples, a grotesque black statuette of Jurojin by Hidari Jingoro, a remarkable kakenwno of 50 Buddhas whose bodies and halos turn out on inspection to bo nothing but the Chinese characters Namtt Amida Butsu constantly re- peated, a gilt statue o^ Amida by Esjiin, and round the walls of the same room the whole biography of Honen Shonin in a set of minutely and brilliantly painted kakemonos by an unknown artist. In another room is enshrined, in a richly wrought gilt case, a noteworthy kakenwno of Jiza submitting to be burnt in order to save others (Yatano Jizo). There are also some old kakemonos by Chinese artists, a black image of Shinran Shonin by himself at the age of 35, and in a separate room a kakeirumo of Naozane, together with his' rosary, his enormous rice-pestle, and his tremendously long and heavy sword. No wonder that the hero is alleged to have been 7 ft. 8 in. in stature. Next come more images — Amida by Jikaku Daishi with Fudo and Benten, and beyond these a kake- mono of the 25 Bosatsu, Amida in the middle with rays of light- streaming from his eye. Behind the Apartments lies a pretty garden, the pond meandering through which is called Yoroi-sute tvo IkSy because Naozane is said to have thrown his armour into it.

On quitting the temple, the visi- tor should glance in 1. at the fine large gilt image of Amida by Genshi Sozu in the lesser shrine dedicated to that deity. Behind this, at a little distance, is the graveyard where Naozane and Atsumori lie buried. The Kumagai-do, dedicated to the memory of the former, is not wbrth visiting, neither are the graves* One may, however, on the way to

312

Boiite 43. — Kyoto,

the next sight, the temple of Shin- nyo-do, walk through the cemetery, which is extensive and prettily situated on the side of a hill crowned by a pagoda, and contains several good large bronze Bnddhas. Most of the graves are those of Kyoto trades-folk.

Shiniiyo-doy a large temple of the Tendai sect, has on its high altar an image of Amida attributed to Jikaku Daishi. The inscription in the tablet over the entrance is by Kobo Daishi.

The characters on this tablet arc, or

should be, -1^ fSi ^^ Shin-ni/o^lo. But the middle one is not perfectly formed, whence the proverb Ksbf) mo /ude no af/nmari, 'Even Kobo BHiKhi sornftimes wrote •wrong,* as we say that * Homer -nods.' Kdbo Daishi, be it remarked, wtts as famous for his calligraphy as for his piety and intellectniil and physical vigour.

Yosbida no Yashiro is an ancient Shinto temple prettily situated on a hill-sidc. It is octagonal, a form seldom seen in Shinto temples, and is painted white and vermilion.

Ginkakllji, properly Jishdji, is in the viU. of Jodoji-mura, out of the N. E. end of Kyoto at the base of a xangjB of hills forming a spur of Hiei-zau.

In 1479 Ashika^.' Yoahimnsa, after his abdication of the Shoj^iin's dignity, built him;sclf a country house here, the wall of which extended asfar as the hill on which stands Shinnyo-(lo. He is said to have had that temple removed because it stood in his way, l)ut afterwards repenting of the act, to have restored it to its original Bite at liis own experiso. The two-storied Ijuildiuar, called Qinhiku (Silver Pavilion), was a summer-house in the garden of his princii)nl reception hall, built in imitation of the Khihiht, or Golden Pavilion, of one of his predecessors (see p. 292). The garden was designed by Soami. It was at Giukakuji that Yoshimasn, with So- ami and Shuko, his favourites, practised tlie tea ceremonies, which their patronage elevated almost to the rank of a flno art.

The visitor is first shown over the Apartments, the artist of which par excellence is Buson. His sliding screens are all either black and white, or else in the very pale- coloured style called iLsu-zaisliiki. After the rooms adorned by his

brush comes one with an image of Yoshimasa in priestly robes, rather black with age but startlingly life- like, and next a tiny tea-room, tlie first in Japan built in accordance with the canon prescribing 4^ mats as the proper size for such rooms. It has some very sketchy sliding screens by Soami and Okyo, and a- sketch of plum-blossoms by H5gen Motonobu — so slight that none but an enthusiastic devotee of the tea ceremonies is likely to appreciate it. One is then led into the Garden which produces a charming efEect, derived in part from the high, thickly pine-clad hill be- hind, lending it a really natural aspect. The curiously shaped heap of white sand seen on enter- ing the garden is called Gin SliadaUy the Silver Sand Platform. Here Yoshimasa used to sit and hold esthetic revels. The smaller one behind is called the Kd-getsu- daiy or I^Iound Facing the Moon, where he used to moougaze. There is a lake of course, as in all these gardens, and as usual each stone, each bridge, each tree of any size has its name. The rill is called Sen-getsu-se?if or the Moon-Washing Fountain; a stone in the pond is the Stone of Ecstatic Contempla- tion ; a little bridge is the Bridge of the Pillar of the Immortals, etc., etc. The Pavilion (Gmkaku) is so dilapidated as to be no longer worth visiting. Enquiry shows that it never was really coated with silver, as its name would imply, Yoshimasa having died before he had got so far. A visit to this place generally ends by the priest who acts as guide offering the visitor tea in the cJia- no-yu style.

8kimo-6amo.

This ancient Shinto temple, dedicated to Tamayori-hime under the name of Mioya-no-kami, was founded in A.D. 677. It was one of the twenty-two chief temples of the Empire, and is still one of those which are maintained at the expense of the State.

This temple stands in a splendid grove of patriarchal maples, ciypto-

ShimO'Gamo. Kami-Gamo.

dig

xnerias, and evergreen oaks. Farti- •cularly curious are two tall sakaki (Cleyera japonica) outside the main ^ate, \vhich are joined together by a branch that has grown from one trunk into the other. These trees, "whichL are much visited by women who desire to live in harmony with their husbands, are called renri no ki, and have a small torii in front showing that they are considered divine. The temple is surrounded by a painted colon- nade, with a red two-storied gate- house (in the centre, opposite to which is the haiden or oratory, a shed 24 ft. by 18 ft. To the r. are two other sheds called the hosodono, for the musicians who play for the performers of the Adzunia-nmi dance in honour of the gods, and the kashidono built over a walled •canal, used by the reader of the norito or ritual. The canal is called Mitarashi-gawaj or Kiver of Lustra- tion. The remaining buildings are of the same character as in other Shinto shrines. Outside the watch- house which faces the main gate is suspended a long picture of Kotnei Tenno's procession to this plaee in 1863, — a great event at the time, as it was a practical demonstration of the possibility of the Mikado coming forth from his palace to taJce part in worldly matters, and thus inaugurated the system under which his son, the present lilikado, governs as well as reigns. One of the smaller shrines is the object of a peculiar supersti- tion. It is believed that evergreens of any species resembling the hiiragi (a kind of holly) in general appearance, but having no spines •on the leaves, will jje converted into that species if planted before this •chapel, and shrubs supposed to be* in process of transformation are pointed out by the hostess of the •adjacent tea-stall. The chapel is appropriately styled Hiiragi no Miya. The principal annual festi- val is celebrated on the 15th April, when the double cherry-blossoms

which adorn the adjacent race-course are all out. The races, however, do not take place till the 5th May.

A pretty road leads from Shimo- Gamo to Kami-Gamo through an avenue of pine-trees 50 cho long, formerly the scene of many an Imperial progress, with the Kamo- gawa to the r., up whose course the avenue goes, while Hieizan rises behind it and Kurama-yama ahead.

Eami-Gamo.

This temple is usually said to have l)een founded in 677 by the Kmperor Temmu in honour of Wake-ikazuchi-no-Kami, but there seems to be some uncertainty at- taching to its early history. According^ to the le<?end, as Tama-yori-Hime, daughter of the god Kamo-no-Take-tsumi, was walking by the side of the stream, there came floating towards her a red arrow winged with a duck's feather, which she picked up and carried home. Shortly afterwards she was discovered to be preg- nant, and she eventually gave birth to a son. The father was unknown, and as her parents disbelieved her declara- tion that she ha<l never known a man, they determined, as soon as the child could understand what was said to it, to anive at the secret by resorting to a kind of ordeal. Inviting all the villagerH to a feast, they gave the child a wine-cup, telling him to offer it to his father ; bub instead of taking it to one of the company, he ran out of the house and placed it lu front of the arrow which Tama-yori-Hime had thrust into the roof. Then trans- foi-miiig liimself into a thunderlx)lt, he ascended to heaven, followed by his mother. This myth eyidently originated in an attempt to account for the name of the River Kamo^ which means * duck.*

The temple buildings are quite plain and beginning to look old. The brick red colour of the outer and inner palings is striking, though scarcely prettj'. In the season of the cherry-blossoms the place is gay with visitors and tea-booths. At other seasons it is scarcely to be recommended, except to those who, making a prolonged stay at Kyoto, desire to become acquaJhted with all its environs, and can take Kami-Gamo on the way to

Kurania-ynma, a favourite walk 2 ri further off among the hills.

The name Kn rawa is said to be derived, from an incident in the life of the Em- peror Temmu, who in A.D,663, in order t»

I

814

Boute 43. — Ki/oto and Keiglihourhood,

escape from Prince Otomo, fled hitlier on a * fisddled horse/ which he left tied up tit this spot.

The walk back from Kurama- yama to Kjoto may be varied by striking over the hills to Shizuhara and Ohara, thence to Yase 1^ W. Here the women wear trowsers, and carry burdens on their heads, sup- ported on a thick cusliion. From Yase to the Sanjo Bridge is 2^ H,

Shng^nkn-in is an Imperial garden at the base of Hiei-zan, planned by the Mikado Go-Mizuno-o in the 17th century. The pagoda of Toji is the most conspicuous object in the view over the city, rising up in the gap between Otoko-yama and Tenno-zan. The fine cherry-trees and maples were planted by Kokaku Tenno, grandfather of the present MiJukdo.

Environs op Kyoto.

As may easily be seen by re- ference to the map, several of the temples and other places already mentioned are, strictly speaking, in the environs of Kyoto rather than within the limits of the city itself, owing to the already men- tioned shrinkage of the latter in modern times. The following are, however, still further afield, de- manding each the greater part of a day to be done comfortably.

1. Iwashimizii Hncliinian-Gfi is

situated to the S.W. of Ky5to on the L bank of the Yodogawa, close to the vill. of Yawata, opposite Yama- zaki station on the Tokaido Kail- way.

This Shinto temple, also called Otoko- yama, is dedicated to the Kmperor Ojin who is worshipped as the god of war under the title of Hachiman. The reason for this particular form of apotheosis is not apparent, as no warlike exploits are recounted of the monarch in question. Perhaps it may be owing to the tradition that his mother, the Empress Jingo, carried him for three years m her womb whilst making her celebmted expedition against Korea. •

The temple stands on a hill some 300 ft. above the river, and is built

in the Byobu-Shinto style, on ^| stone-faced platform 10 ft. high. \ In former times pilgrims ivere allowed to walk round the outer edge of the corridor surrounding the building, so that they were able^ to see the golden gutter between the eaves of the oratory and chapel. This is still said to be in its place, in spite of the great temptation tO' convert it into current coin. Prom the E. gate a few flights of steps descend to the well called Iwa-shi- mizu, that is, *Pure rock water,'' after which the temple is named.

Crossing the river by the Ishiba- no-Watashi (ferry), the visitor should ascend Tenno-zan to the pagoda of Takara-dera, 200 ft. above the bank.

Here are buried some of the Choshfl men who performed hamltiri on the top ci the liill aljove, after the repulse of the at- tack made on the Mikado's palace bj' the warriors of that clan in 1 864. Three hundred feet higher is a gigantic stone torii ; and a little further, on the slope where they killed themselves rather than surrender to 1)6 treated as common criminals, standK- the monument raised to their memory by the prince of Chosha. This hill and the narrow pass Ijctween it and the river, (Xjcupied by the vill. of Yamazaki, are famous in Japanese history as the battle- field where Hideyoshi routed the forces of the traitor Akechi Mitsuhide in 1562, and thus avenged the assassination of his^ patron l^bunaga. Yamazaki and the villages of Yawata and Hashimoto oppo- site wore also the scene of hard fighting in the beginning of 1868, when the Toku- i gawa troops were l)eing driven l»,ckwanls ^ upon their l>ftse bythe victorious mmirai < of Satsuma and ChoshU.

Other places which native holiday- makers would combine in the same day's expedition aTe Ao no Kdmijdji, Nagaoha no Tenjuiy and Hashimoto,

2. Atagro-yaiiin is a conspicuous peak to the N. W. of Kyoto, about 2,900 ft. above the sea. The ascent *of it may advantageously be com- bined with a visit to Omuro Gosho (see p. 294), Uzumasa (p. 294), and Sciryuji (p. 295), which all lie in the same direction. A short dis- tance beyond Seiryiiji is a red torii at the bottom of a hill called Kokorojni-zakat which might ba

Atago-yama, Bapids of , the Katsura-gaiva, Uji, 815

lendered * Test Hill,' sus it puts tlie pil£pim*s endurance to a first trial before he reaches the more arduous ascent to the summit of the moun- tain. Descending to the vill. of Kiyotaki, 17 chdy we cross the stream which lower down unites with the Oigawa to form the Katsura-gawa, and then begin to climb a very steep path to the Minakuchi-ya. On the 'WAj up are two resting-places which command a fine view of the plain. The last half of the ascent is much less steep, and the distance from the last tea-house to the summit is but 5 cho. On the 1. a glimpse is caught of the Oigawa and the town of Kameoka in the plain of Tamba. There is a fine bronze torii with a boar in relief at the top of the as- cent. Several flights of stone steps lead up to the front chapel, which* is dedicated to the creatress Xzanami and her child the God of Fire, whose birth caused her death. The most common ex-voto is a picture of a wild boar. At the back is a second chapel dedicated to Toyo- uke-hime, the Goddess of Food, and two other deities. Charms are sold by the priests as- a protection against fire.

3. Knraiiia-yama. See p. 313.

4. Bapids of the Katsnragawa.

This expedition makes a pleasing variety in the midst of days spent chiefly in visiting temples. The distance from the Kyoto Hotel to the vill, of Hozu, where boats are engaged for the descent of the lapids, is under 6 ri ; but the road, though practicable for jinrikishas the whole way, is hilly and rough in places, so that t^o coolies should be taken. A good plan is to engage jinrikishas for the whole round, as none can be counted on at the landing-place at Arashi- yama, the point to which the de- scent of the river is made. There is no extra charge for taking them in the boat. Fare for jinrikishas for the whole trip, including the return from Arashi-yama to the Hotel,

$1^. The charge for a large boat to descend the rapids is $3^ ; but it is advisable to reach Hozu before noon, as the boatmen make a double charge after that hour, on the ground of their not being able to re- ascend the river the_ same day. Visitors from Kobe or Osaka should alight from the train at Muko- maclii, the station before reaching Kyoto, and join the road at Katagi- wara, thereby saving in distance 2 ri 9 cho and the additional journey by rail. At Mukomachi jinrikishas (i^l for the whole trip) can be engaged ; the distance to the junc- tion of the roads at Katagiwara is 18 did.

The villages of Kutsukake and Oji are traversed before reaching H6zu> the point of embarkation. The rapids commence almost immedi- ately. The bed of the river is very rocl^, but the stream at its ordi- nary height not particularly swift. The scenery is charming. The river at once enters the hills which soon rise precipitously on either hand, and continues its course between them for about 13 m. to Arashi- yama. Of the numerous small rapids and races, the following are a few of the most exciting : — Koya iw taki, or Hut Eapid, a long race terminating in a pretty rapid, the passage being narrow between artifi- cially constructed embankments of rock ; TdkasCy or High Rapid, Shi- shi no Kuchif or The tjion's Mouth, and Tonase-daki, the last on the descent, where the river rushes between numerous rocks and islets. One ri before reaching Arashi-yama, the Kiyotaki-gawa falls in on the 1. Tlie descent takes on an average about 2 hrs., but varies slightly according to the amount of w^ater in the river. From the landing-place at Arashi-yama to the Kyoto Hotel is a journey of 1 hr. by jinrikisha.

5. Uji (InnSy Yorozu-ya on the Kyoto side of the river, and Kiku- ya on the other side) lies a little under 4 ri S. of Kyoto. There is a

316

Route 43, — Kyoto and Neighbourhood,

good jinrikisha road the whole way. This neat little town, picturesquely situated on the Yodogawa, here called Ujigawa, which drains Lake Biwa, is surrounded by tea planta- tions that have been famous for many centuries as producing the finest tea in Japan.

Tea is believed to have been introduced from China in 805 by the BudAhist abbot, Dengyo Daishi. ' The Uji plantations date fi-om the close of the 12th century.

The tea begins to come to market about the 10th May, but the prepara- tion of the leaf can be seen going on busily in the peasants' houses k)r some time later. The finest kinds, such as Gydkuro (Jewelled Dew), ajre sold at very high prices — as much as from $5 to $7^ a pound. Those, however, who expect to see large firing or selling establish- ments will be disappointed. Each family works independently in quite a small way, and gives to the tea produced by it whatever fancy name it chooses. The citizens of Kyoto visit Uji in the summer to see the fire-flies, and to enjoy the charming view up the river which recalls that from Arashi-yama. It is a good picnicking place at all seasons.

Uji's chief sight is the ancient Buddhist temple of Byddo-in^ be- longing to the Tendai sect and con- nected in history with the name of the famous warrior Gen-sammi Yorimasa.

The monastery dates from 1052. Here Oen-sammi Yonmasa committed suicide in 1180 after the battle of Uji Bridge, where with 300 warriors he resisted the 20,000 men of the Taira clan, in order to afford time for Prince M(X5hiluto to make his escape. After prodigies of valour had been performed by this little band, most of whom fell in the defence of the bridge, Yorimasa retired to Byodo-in, and while his remaining followers kept the enemy at bay, calmly ran himself through with his sword in the manner of an ancient Japanese hero. He was then 75 years of age. Yorimasa is famous in Japanese romance for having, with the aid of his trusty squire I-no-Hayata, slain the monster called Sam-toru-hehi which tormented the Emperor Nijo-no-in.

The large stone monument of irregular shape, seen to the 1. on

entering the grounds of Byodo-in, was erected in 1887 to hand down the praises of Uji tea to posterity. The building beyond the lotus pond is the Hoo-ddy or Phoenix Hall, one of the most ancient wooden stmc- tures'in Japan, perhaps the most original in shape, and formerly one of the most beautiful, though now unfortunately a good deal decayed. It derives its name from the fact that it is intended to represent a phoenix, the two-storied central part being the body and the colonnades r. and 1. the wings, while the corridor behind forms the tail. The ceil- ing is divided into small coffers inlaid with mother-of-pearl. Bound the top of the walls runs a sort of frieze representing the Twenty-five JBosatsu and various female person- ages. The doors and the walls r. and 1. and behind the altar are covered with ancient Buddhist paintings by Tamenari, now almost obliterated, of the Nine Begions of Siikhavdti(Jsiip. Kuban Jddojj the Pure Land in the West, where the saints dwell according to their degree of merit.

The altar or stage was originally covered with nashiji gold lacquer inlaid with mother-of-pearl ; and as every inch of the walls and columns was elaborately decorated with paintings, the efiect of the whole when new must have been truly dazzling. By criminal neglect this gem of art was left open to every wind of heaven for many years, ana what between the ravages of the weather and the ravages of thieves, the place has been reduced to its present state of decay.

On the xooi are two phoenixes in bronze, 3 ft. high, which serve as weathercocks.

The Honddy or present main tem- ple, which is much newer, has nothing calling for special mention. The Apartments, though poor, con- tain various objects of interest,— kakenionoSf illustrated scrolls, and relics of Yorimasa, among other things his flag which is inscribed

Eonte 44. — Lake Biwa.

817

vdth Sanskrit characters^ his bow, saddle, and armour, a small coloured image of him in priestly garb which looks like a portrait, and a very old kakemono representing his life and adventures; There is also a flag interesting as a very early example of the Japanese national device of the red sun on a white ground. On the sun are inscribed the characters Namu Amida ButsUj -and a date corresponding to the 30th November, 1185. The collec- tion contains furthermore quite a number of small Buddhist images.

The walk up the stream to the temple of Koshoji (ferry), return- ing over the Uji bridge, is very pretty. The most agreeable way of returning to Kyoto is to take boat, a,nd drop down to the Kyoba- fihi at Fushimi in about an hour, whence home by jinrikisha. Ob- serve that an expedition to Uji may be combined with a visit to the Daibutsu (see p. 300) f San-ju-san- gm-do (p. 299), Tofukuji (p. 299), and the temple of Inari (p. 298). Instead of following the main road from Kyoto to Uji, some recommend a d6tour vi& the temples of Fuji-no- nwri and Obaku-san. Both of these ancient and once celebrated edifices have, however, fallen into such lamentable decay as really not to be worth going out of one's way to see.

Fuji-no-Mori is dedicated to Toneri fihinno, the chief compiler of the Xlhongi, or ' Chronicles of Japan,' A.D. 720. Obaku- mn, founded in 1659 by a Chinese priest named Ingen, possesses a complete set of wooden blocks for printing the Chinese version of the Buddliist scriptures.

Those who prefer jinrikisha riding to the train might go from Kyoto to Nara vid. Uji — not much more than a half-day's run — passing through the vill. of Nagaike and along the banks of the Kizugawa.

6. Lake Biwa, either via Otsu or over HieUmn, (See next Route for details.)

ROUTE 44.

Lake Biwa.

kyoto to lake biwa. otsu. i8hi- yama-deba. miideba. kara- saki. ascent op hiei-zan. .hi- kone. nagahama. chikubu-

SHIHA.

1. — General Information.

Glimpses of this beautiful lake, whose southern and eastern shores are classic ground^ can be obtained from the carriage windows by those travelling on the Tokaid5 Railway between the stations o£ Maibara and Baba ; but they are glimpses only. To explore the best portions of the Lake Biwa district thoroughly, the proper plan is, taking Kyoto as the starting-point, to go to Otsu either by rail or jin- rikisha, or else to go over Hiei-zan, as explained in detail below, to do the southern end of. the lake from Otsu as a centre, and then to take one of the little lake steamers from Otsu to Hikone and Nagahams, returning to Otsu by rail, and thence either westwards to Kyoto or eastwards in the direction of Yokohama.

The Lake of Omi, generally called Lake Biwa {Biwa-ko in Japanese) on account of a fancied resemblance between its shape and that of the Chinese guitar, is about 3ft m. long and 12 m. wide. Its area is ap- proximately equal to that of the Lake of Geneva. Its height is stated by Dr. Rein to be about 100 metres (3.33 ft.) above the level of the sea ; and its greatest depth is said to l3e the same, but in most places is much less. From Katata towards Seta it becomes very narrow, while the northern part is oval in shape. On the "W. side the mountain ranges of Hiei-zan and Hira- yama descend nearly to the shore, while on the K. a wide plain extends between Musaand Toriimoto towards the boundary of Mino. There are a few small islands in the lake, of which Chikubu-shima neeur the N. end is the most celebrated. Ac- cording to a legend long finnly believed in by the Japanese, the lake was produced by an earthquake in the year 286 B.C.* while Mount Fuji rose out of the plains of Suruga at the same moment. Constant reference is made in Japanese poetry vuSL

818

Boute 44. — Lake Biwa,

art to the ' Eight Beauties of Omi ' ( Omi Hdk-kei)t the idea of which was derived, like most other Japanese things, from China, where there are or were eight beauties at a place called Siao-Siang. The Sight Beauties of Omi are : the Autumn Moon seen from Ishijama, the Evening finow on Hirayama, the Blaze of Evening at Seta, the Evening Bell of Miidera, the Boats sailing back from Yabase, a Bright Bky ^vith a Breeze at Awazu, Rain by- Night at Karasaki, and the Wild Geese sighting at Katata. As usual, conven* tion enters a good deal into this Japanese choice of specially lovely scenes ; but all foreigners will admit the great general iieauty of the southern portion of the lake. A new feature— useful though not "beautiful— added to the neighbourhood of Otsu by the modem thirst for progress is the Lake Biica Canal, Ijegun in 18U5, and consisting of two branches, one for pur- poses of navigation, the other for irriga- tion and water power. The main branch is 6| m. long, the secondary branch 5i m., the total fall 143 ft. Some portions of the Canal are open, others pass through long tunnels. The main branch connects with the Kamogawa, the river by which Kyoto is watered. At Keage near the entrance of the city, where the branches divide, the boat traffic is worked by an inclined plane, the boats being put into a wheeled cradle, which is pulled up and let down by mea^s of a wire rope 'worked by "water power from the Canal above. From the foot of this plane there is another Btretch of open Canal, with a regulating lock between it and the river. A curious ]>ersonal item worth mentioning jn con- nection with this Canal is the fact that the idea of it originated with a young student of the College of Engineering at Tokyo, who, having propoimded it in his graduation essay, obtained pennission to put it into practice liim.«4elf, and thus, though a mere youth and though deprived of the use of his right hand— all his draw- ings having been beautifully executed with his left — rose immediately to the position of one of the leading engineers in the country. His name is Tanabe Sakuro. The Canal was opened to traffic in the spring of 1890, and while answering the purposes for which it was intended, has not verified the fears of some who im- agined that the level of the lake would lie I)ermanently lowered. The cost of the undertaking is officially stated at Ik mil- lion jfen. The natural drainage of the lake is by a river flowing out of its 8. end, which bears in succession the names of Setagawa, Ujigawa, and Yodogawa. It ^sses close to Fushimi, a suburb of jS^jotOt and falls into the sea at Osaka.

_ Small steamers ply daily between Otsu and Hikone, Maibara, and Nagahama on the E. coast of the lake, and along the W. coast be-

tween Otsn, Katata, Eatsmio, eto., on the W. coast, ending up at Shiotsu on the N. extremity.

2. — ^^Kyoto to Otsu bt Jinrikisha. Otsu and NEiaHBOUBHOOD.

The run from Kyoto to Otsu by the TokaidS Railway takes about f hr. The Otsu station, called Ilabau stands some way out of the town. For this reason, and also on account of the excellence of the highway, which is part of the historic Tokaido and still retains some of the bustle and pictur- esqueness of former days, many prefer to do the distance by jinrikisha. One may also thus advantageously combine a visit to the Kinlcozan Potteries at Awata on the E. outskirt of Kyoto, which are extensive and most interesting, the visitor being shown the whole process, from the kneading of the clay to the painting in gold and colours and the firing of the com- pleted pieces. Leaving Awata, we pass 1. the Lake Biwa Canal, just at the place (Keage) where the portage by rail takes place. After ascending a gentle rise called Hino-oka-toge, we next see r. the former Execution Ground (shi-obi~ ha), now turned into a rice-field, and then 1. the Tiimvlus of Tenji Tennoy a Mikado of the 7th century. It is a mound overgrown with pine-trees, like all the hill- sides hereabout. The vill. of Yania- shina, which stands on the boundary betweenthe provinces of Yamashiro and Omi, and which has filrnished a title to one of Japan's Imi)erial Princes, is soon reached, and after it the villages of Oiwake and Otani, where the high- road and the railway run side by side. The gentle hill next ascend- ed is called Osaka (properly Au saka, ' the hill of meeting,* of course having nothing^ whatever to do with the city of Osaka).

On the top formerly stood a barrier, or oetroif constantly referred to in Japanese

Otsu. Miidera, Pine-tree of KarasdkL

31^

poetry, and thus described by Semi-maro, one of tbe bards of the Hyuku-nin Ig-shUf or • Century of Poets,' in a stanza which every Japanese knows by heart :

The stranger here from distant lands. The friend his home-bound friend may

greet. For on this hill the barrier stands, The gate where all must part and meet.

Just over the top of the hill tliere is a tiny shrine to Semi- maro. Lake Biwa then comes in view, and in a minute more we are

Otsn {Hotel, Minarai-tei, semi- foreign), a flourishing town, capital of the province of Omi and of the prefecture of Shiga, standing on the shore of the lake.

This city has gained an unenviable place in the annals of contemporary Japan, through the attempted murder there of the (Jzare witch on the 11th May, 189 1 . The would-be assassin, Tsuda Sanzo, had distinguished himSelf on the loyal aide in the Satsuma Rebellion, and having Bubsequently entered the police service, was actually on duty at the time as one of the Czarewitch's guards. Some of the good people of Otsu proposed to alter the name of their city, which had thus become infamous ; but though such changes are by no means rare in Japan, this particular suggestion has not been adopted.

On a hill close to the town stands the famous Buddhist temple of Miidera, dedicated to Kwannon.

This monastery was founded in A.D. 675 by the Emperor Tenji, and rebuilt in magni- ficent style in the following centuiy. The present structure, which dates only from 16SM), is poor. The granite obelisk is quite modem, having been erected to the memory of the soldiers from this prefec- ture who fell fighting on the loyal side against the Satsuma rebels.

The view is entrancing, espe- cially from the obelisk. On the spectator's extreme 1. is Hiei-zan, then Hirayama; next, in faint outline, the island of Chikubu- shima near the N. end of the lake, with the high land of Echizen behind; straight ahead are other mountains not specially famous, excepting jwinted Chomeiji-yama, and Mikami-yama, (Mukade-yama) shaped like a miniature Fuji. To the extreme r. is Tanakami-zan. At the spectator's feet ai-e the lake and

the town of Otsu, with the Canal coming straight towards^ hinl.

Not quite Ij ri N. of Otsu, along the W. shore of the lake by a level jinrikisha road, is EaraSaiki,. famous all over Japan for its giant pine-tree, which is one of the most curious trees in the world and perhaps the very largest of its species — not in height, but in extent. Its dimensions are stated as follows ;

Height, over 90 ft.

Circumference of trunk, over 37 „ Length of branches from

E. to W 240 „

Length of branches from N.

to S 288 „

Number of branches, over... 380 „

Most of the branches spread downwards and outwards, fan-like, towards the ground, being in most places so low that one has to crouch in order to pass under them, and are supported by a whole scaffolding of wooden legs and stone cushions. The holes in the trunk are carefully stopped with plaster, and the top of the tree has a little roof over it to ward off the rain from a spot supposed to be delicate. In front of this tree, for which immemorial age has gained the reputation of sanctity, stands a trumpery little Shinto shrine called Karasaki Jinja.

Those having time to spare should continue on 20 chd further aloncr this road to Sflkamoto (several inns), where, on the slope of Hiei- zan, embosomed among tall pines and cryptomerias, is a large Shinto- tetaple dedicated to Hiyoshi, or Sanno Sama, the god of the moun- tain, together with a number of subsidiary shrines, some so small as almost to look like toys. The still- ness of the now half-deserted temples, the shade of the grand old trees, and the plashing of rills of water through the spacious grounds, produce a charming impression. No spot could be better fitted for a

:S20

Route 44, — Lake Bivca.

picnic. There are two more Shinto shrines 8 cho higher up the hill.

The best expedition on the oppo- site, or S.E., side of Otsu is to tile long bridge of Seta and the temple of Ishiyama-dera, a charming jin- rikisha ride. After leaving Otsu, one passes through Zeze, which is practically a suburb of Otsu (most Japanese prefer the Sakamoto-ya inn at Zeze to any of those at •Otsu). Observe r. the barn-like temple of Empuku-in, with quaint images — some painted, some un- painted — of the Five Hundred Bahan seated on shelves placed round three sides of the hall. On leaving Zeze, the road leads over a sort of common called Awazu-no-hara. Here the culti- vated plain to the r., the avenue of pine-trees lining the road, the blue lake to the 1., and the hills encircling the horizon — some brilliantly green with pine-trees, some bare and white, some blue in the distance, with broad spaces between, and the cone of Mikami- yama ahead — this tout ensenible forms an ideal picture of tranquil and varied loveliness. Two cho past the vill. of Torigawa, stands the celebrated

Long Bridge of Seta (Seta no Naga-hashi), spanning the waters of the lake at the picturesque spot where it narrows to form the Setagawa, so called from the vill. of Seta on the opposite bank. A bridge has existed in this spot from the earliest times. The pre- sent structure was last repaired in 1875. Properly speaking, the bridge is two bridges, there being an island in mid-stream, on which they meet. The first bridge is 215 Japanese ft. long, the second 576 ft. A tiny Shinto shrine on the op- posite bank of the river, to the r., is dedicated to the memory of Tawara Toda Hidesato, a famous hero of romance, who is said to have lived in the tenth century. The follow-

ing legend concerning him and. the Long Bridge and « Mikami-3r&in& hard by, which is also called. Mukade-yama, that is. Centipede Mountain, is taken from tlie 'Japanese Fairy Tale Series/ where it bears the title of

My Lord BAQ-O'-EiCE.f

Once upon a time there was a brave warrior, called My Lord Bag-o'-Rice, Mr bo spent all his time in waging war ag&inat the Mikado's enemies.

One day, when he had sallied fortli. to seek adventures, he came to the Lonfc Bridge of Seta, spanning the river just ctt the place where it flows out of the Lake. Wnen he set foot on this bridge, he s&vr that a Serpent twenty feet long was lyinfc there basking in the sun, in such a wfty that he could not cross the bridge withoat treading on it. Most men would have taken to their heels at so frightful a siglit. But My Lord Bag-o'-Rice was not to be daunted. He simply walked right ahead, — squash, scrunch, over the Serpent's body. Instantly the Serpent turned into a tiny- Dwarf, who, humbly bowing the knee* and kncKking the planks of the bridge three times with his head in token of respect, said : * My Lord ! you are & man, you are ! For many a weary day have I lain here, waiting for one who should avenge mc on mine enemy. But all who saw me were cowards and ran away. You will avenge me, will you not? X live at the bottom of this lake, and my enemy is a Centipede who dwells at the top of yonder mountain. Come along with me, I lieseech you. If you help me not, I am undone.'

The Warrior was delighted at havinK found such an adventure. He wil- lingly followed the Dwarf to his summer-house beneath the waters of the lake. It was all curiously built of coral and metal sprays in the shape of sea-weed 4ind other water-plants, with fresh-water crabs as big as men, and water-monkeys, and newts, and tadpoles, as ser\-ant8 and body-guai-ds. When they had restcid awhile, dinner was brought in on trays shapetl like the leaves of water-lilies. The dishes were water-cress leaves,— not real ones, but much more beautiful than real ones ; for they were of water-green porce- lain with a shimmer of gold ; and the chopsticks were of beautiful petrified wood, like black ivoiy. As for the wine in the cups, it looked like water; but as it iaitted all right, what did its looks signify ?

Well, there they were, feasting and singing ; and the Dwarf had just pledged

fTowara, part of the means 'rice-bag.*

hero*8 name*

Long Bndge of Seta, IsJiiyama-dera.

821

tlie Warrior in a goblet of hot steaming 'wine, when thud ! thud ! thud ! like the tramp of an army, the fearful monster of 'wbom the Dwarf had spoken was heard approaching. It sounded as if a conti- nent were in motion ; and on either side there seemed to be a row of a thousand men with lanterns. But the Wanior was able to make out, as the danger drew nearer, that all this fuss was made by a single creature, an enormous Centipede over a mile long ; and that what had seemed like men with lanterns on either side of it, were in reality its own feet, of w^hich it had exactly one thousand on each side of its bod^, all of them glisten- ing and glinting with the sticky poison tliat oozed out of eveiy pore. There was no time to be lost. The Centipede was already half-way down the mountain. So the Warrior snatched up his bow— a bow so big and heavy that it would have taken five ordinaiy men to pull it— fitted an arrow into the bow-notch, and let fly. He was not , one ever to miss his aim. The arrow struck right in the middle of the monster's forehead. But alas ! it rebounded as if that forehead had been I •made of brass. j

A second time did the Warrior take his , bow and shoot. A second time did the i arrow strike and rebound ; and now the dreadful creature was down to the water's edge, and would soon pollute the lake with its filthy poison. Said the Warrior to himself: 'Nothing kills Centipedes so surely as human spittle.' And with these words, he spat ui^ou the tip of the only arrow that remained to him, — for there had been but three in his quiver. This time again the aiTow hit the Centi- pede right in the middle of the forehead. But instead of rebounding, it went right in and came out again at the back of the creature's head, so that the Centipede fen down dead, shaking the whole country-side like an earthquake ; and the poisonous light on its two thousand feet darkened to a dull glare like that of l^e twilight of a stormy day.

Then the Warrior found himself wafted back to his own castle ; and round him stood a row of presents, on each of which were inscribed the words, ' From your grateful Dwarf.' One of these presents was a large bronze bell, which the War- rior, who was a religious man as well as a brave one, hung up in the temple that contained the tombs of his ancestors. The second was a sword, which enabled him ever after to gain the victory over all his enemies. The third was a suit of armour which no arrow could penetrate. The fourth was a roll of silk which never grew smaller, though he cut off large pieces from to time to make himself a new court dress. The fifth was a Img of rice, which, though he took from it day after day for mea£ for himself, his family, and his trusty retainers, never got exhausted as kmg as he lived. And it was from this

fifth and last present that he took his name and title of ' My Lord Bag-o'-Rice ; * for all the people thought that there was nothing stranger in the whole world than this wonderful bag, which made its owner such a rich and happy man.

Eeturning to the vill. of Tori- gawa, we follow for a short distance down the r. bank of the Setagawa to

Isiiiyania-dora. In the vill. just before reaching the temple are numerous tea-houses where lunch may conveniently be taken.

This famous monastery was founded in 749 by the monk liyoben tsOjo, in obedience to a command of the Emperor Shomu. h aving been destroyed by fire in 1076, it was rebuilt a century later by Yoritomo. The present main temple was built by Todo- (jrimi, the mother of Hideyori, towards the end of the 16th century. The name Ishi- j/ama-dera, lit, 'the temple of the rocky mountain,' is derived from some large black rocks of fantastic shape, which crop up out uf the soil in the middle of the grounds, and have been utilised by the priests for purposes of landscape gardening.

The temple grounds occupy the lower part of a thickly wooded hill on the r. bank of the river, and extend almost down to the water's edge. Passing along an avenue of maple-trees and ascending a flight of steps, the visitor reaches the platform where stand the already- mentioned black rocks, above which ' again is the Main Temple, dedicated to the Two-Armed Omnipotent Kwannon. The building, which is partly supported on piles, is dingy within. The altar is so dark that the image of Kwannon can scarcely be distinguished. It is 16 ft. high, and is attributed to Ryo- ben. In its interior is hidden the real object of worship, a small image six inches in height, once owned by the famous Prince Sho- toku Taishi. On pillars in front of the altar hang prayer-wheels and a fortune-box (o mikuji-hako) , the latter being a cylinder con- taining little braas chopsticks marked with notches, — one, two, three, and so on up to twelve. The anxious enquirer shakes one of

S22

BouU 4^. — Lake Biwa.

these out of a email liole at one end ' of the cylinder, notes the nnmber of notches on it, and then reads off, from a board banging higher np, a verse containing what may be called his fortune, bnt is in many cases rather a short homily addressed to his characteristic de- fect. The date inscribed on the cylinder is 188S. The paper labels that will be noticed on the pillars are stack there by pilgrims, and contain their names, addresses, and date of pilgrimage — are in fact a • sort of visiting card. The small . image near the entrance is Bisha- mon. A little room to the r., known as the Qenji no Ma, is said to have been occupied by Muraisaki Shikibn, a famous authoress of about A.D. 1000, during the com- ; position of her great romance, the Genji Monogaiari. A small fee to the custodian will unlock the door, . and enable the visitor to inspect | the ink-slab she used, a M.S. Bud- ' dhist Sutra said to be in her hand- | writing, and some mineralogical ' 8X)ecimens.

The grounds contain several minor temples and other build- ings. Walking up past the pagoda, one reaches the TsvJci-mi no Chin, whose name means literally 'the Moon-Gazing Arbonr*. This point affords a charming view of the lake, the river, the long bridge, and the mountains enclosing the basin of the lake to the E., the fore- ground being, however, somewhat spoilt by rising ground all along the 1. bank of the river. Ishi- yama-dera is famous for the beauty of its maple-trees in autumn.

All the above can easily be seen within the limits of one day — Mii- dera, Karasaki, and Sakamoto being taken in the morning, and the Long Bridge with Ishiyama- dera in a short afternoon. A second day will, be, required to do the chief places on the E. shore of the lake — Hikone and Nagahama^ with perhaps Chikubu-shima.

Hikoae (Inns, * Bakn-rakn-tei, near the castle-moat, with bean- tifol garden ; Matsu-ya) is pictu- resquely situated on the shore of the lake, and possesses the remains of a fine feudal castle, formerly tiie seat of a Daimyo called li-Kamon^ no-Kami. ^

This eaetle was about to perish in the general min of such bnildines whidi ac- companied the mania for aU things Emo- pean and the contempt of their natiooal antiquities, irhereby the Japanese were actuated Annns; the first two decades of flie present rigime. It so chanced, however, that the Mikado, on a pro^rress throi^|L Central Japan, spent anight at Hikone* and finding the local oflScials busy pallioflr down the old castle, commanded them to desist. The lover of the picturesque will probably be more grateful to His Majesty for this gracions.nct of clemency towards a doomed edifice than for many scores of the improvements which the present GoYem* ment has set on foot, more especially when the so-Citlled Improvements relate to axdd- tecture.

About 3^ ri from Hikone, in the hills towards Seki-ga-hara, is a fish- breeding establishment (Yogydba), where salmon and salmon-trout aro reared according to the most ap- proved modem methods. The place may be also reached from Maibara station, whence the distance is but 2 ri 13 eho,

Nagahama {Inn, Masu-ya at rail- way station), also on the lake, is the finest town between Otsu and Tsuruga, and enjoys a delightful vifw.

This place is celebrated for its crape cnlled Hamn-chirimen, for taumngi woven from spun silk, and for mosquito netting, most of which is made in the surrounding; villages by weavers who receive the thread from the dealerzt in the town and return it to them made up. tWhen the crape comes from the weavers, it presents the appearance of gauze, and has to be boiled by persons called nerii/a. Upon drying it shrinks con- siderably in breadth, and assumes the wrinkled texture proper to crape. There are two qualities, one peifectly white, which alone is suitable fur dyeing scarlet, and another of a pale bluish tint, which will take all other dyes. A large quantity of the raw silk used in this manufacture is produced in the neighbourhood.

The island of Chikiiba-shiina, which is not often touched at by

Chikuhmhhna. Hid-zan,

d28

1ih.e lake steamers, can be reached from Nagahama, 3 ri by boat. A better plan still is to take a jinriki- sha from Nagahama to the vill. of Hayazaki, whence it is only a passage of 50 chd. Eemember that Liake Biwa^ like most lakes, is subject to sudden squalls, so that it is always advisable to engage ■ana. extra boatman in case of need. Ch-ikubu-shima, which is high and tbickly wooded, has a small temple -to the goddess Benten. It is a ^wronderful sight, at the approach of evening, to see the birds flock- ing in thousands to the island to roost.

The return journey by train from Nagahama to Otsu calls for no special description, the moun- tains etc. that are seen being those already often mentioned.

•3. — Kyoto to Otsu over Hiei-zan.

This delightful alternative way of reaching Otsu fronl Kyoto may foe taken either on foot or on horse- back, jinrikishas also being avail- able for about li ri at the begin- ning of the excursion and for 2 ri at the end, from Sakamoto (see p. 319)_along the shoye of Lake Biwa to Otsu. The whole trip can be accomplished on ponies in about 6 hrs., or say one short day, includ- ing a picnic on the mountain. The same time is required if, instead of proceeding on to Otsu, the party prefer to return to Kyoto. In either case the day's programme may be so arranged, on starting from Kyoto, as to include a visit to Ginkakujl and Shugaku-in (the latter only for those having admis- sion to the Kyoto palaces, see p. 287). The view from the summit of Hiei-zan is among the finest in Japan, comprising, as it does, a magnificent panorama of the valley of Kyoto and of Lake Biwa and its shores. Only towards the N. is the prospect cut off by Hira- yama. Arrangements should be made for lunching at the summit.

in order to enjoy the view at leisure. The spot, known by the name of Shimei-ga-take, is grassy, and rises to a height of some 2,700 ft. above the sea level.

The original name of Hiei-zan was Hie- no-yama, perhaps meaning the 'ChiUy Mountain ;* and the Shinto temple of Hie at Sakamoto at the E. foot of the moun- tain, popularly known as SannS Sama, is called after it. During the middle ages Hiei-zan was covered with Buddhist temples and seminaries, the total aggre- gate of such buildings heiag stated at the extraordinary number of 3,000; and the monks, who were often ignorant, truculent, and of disorderly habits, became the terror of Kyoto, on which peaceful city they would sweep down ofter the manner of banditti. At last, in the 16th century, the great warrior Nobunaga, in order to re- venge himself upon the monks for having^ sided with his enemy Asakura, Lord of Echizen, attacked the temples and com- mitted them to the flames. The monka were dispersed far and w^ide until the accession to power of the Tokugawa Sh9- gruns, who re-established the institntioa on a smaller scale, the number of the seminaries being limited to 125.

On the way down the mountain towards the lake many now de- serted shrines are passed, till at the base the fine temple buildings just above the vill. of Sakamoto are reached. The way thence into Otsu is through Sakamoto and Karasaki, where a halt should be made to look at the giant pine- tree (see p. 319).

d24

Eoute 45. — Nara and NeUflibourhood,

ROUTE 45.

NaBA and NsiaHBOUAUOOD.

Nara is now best reached by train from Osaka. One of the intermediate stations, Horyuji, pos- sesses considerable interest.

Osaka-Naba Eailwat.

Distance

from

Osaka.

Names

of Stations.

Remarks.

2}m.

n

10

i5i

18

22*

26*

OSAKA (Minato-

machi). Tennoji. Hirano.

Yao

(Alight for V temple of ( Shigi-sen.

rChange for 1 Takada and ( Sakurai.

KasliiwalMira. dii

Horj'aji.

Koriyama.

NARA.

_ The line, leaving the S.E. end of Osaka, passes along a wide, cul- tivated plain encircled at a con- siderable distance by mountains, those ahead and to the r. being the monntains of Yamato, the province in which Nara stands. The scenery is picturesque between Kashiwa- bara and Oji, after which latter place on to Nara it becomes flat.

I'rom Yao it is 50 did to Shigi-sen, the scene of a famous victory by Shotoku Taishi over the rebel Mo- nonobe-no-Moriya. The temple is dedicated to Bishamon, who is sup- posed to have lent his assistance to the victor. It is adorned with the crest of centipedes peculiar to that divinity. There is rather a good view.

At Kashiwabara is a temple called Domyoji to which yearly pilgrimages are made. The viU. of

Horyiiji (Injis, Daikoku - ya, Xase-ya) takes its name from a ■very ancient monastery, which, though somewhat battered by time.

well merits a visit from all lovers of art and antiquity. ^

The monastery of HoryQji is the oldest Baddhist temple in Japnn, having been founded by Shotoku Taishi and completed, in A.D. 607. Owing to its unusually im- portant collection of art treasures, it has attracted the attention of art critics and of the Imperial Grovernment, the latter having in lfc87 given a sum of the $10,000 towards its support. There is also a local Hozon-kwai, or Society for the Preservation of the Temple. The temple is always open, excepting on certain special occa- sions. A fee of $1 should be given to the custodian, who will show the visitor the various objects of art (reikd-mono) .

Instead of entering by the main gate, called Ahezu-no-mon-, it is usual to take a short cut throuf^h the Hachiman gate close to the inns. In this way* the Yume-dono is first visited, and the principal part of the monastery is taken afterwards. The Yume-dono, or Hall or Dreams^ an octagonal building in the centre of an enclosure surrounded by a closed gallery, is dedicated to Kwannon.

On the E. of the image of this goddess is • that of the Eleven- faced Kwannon (600 years old)^ and on the W., Shotoku Taishi^ J, 100 years old. The Yumedono is now generally kept closed. Behind it is a long building, in the- r. part of which, called the Shari- den, the pupil of the left eye of Buddha is kept. It is shown every day at noon. The walls are covered with paintings by a Chinese artist named Shun-in. In the 1. part of the building, called Go- Eiden, are wall-pictures repre- senting the events of the prince's life, attributed to Hada noChishin, A.D. 1069. In this room is the ancient bronze image caUed the YumB'tagai no Kitxinnon, which is invoked to counteract the effects of bad dreams. Other buildings near by are the Denibo-do connected by a small bridge, and Sogenji.

Leaving this part of the monas- tery, we pass through a gate- way and come to a buildings which contains a small eques-

Temple of Hdryuji,

825

trian statue of Shotoku Taishi subduing Moriya-no-Daijin ; the in- cident is depicted in greater detail upon the ex-voto painting outside. In the corresponding building, call- ed Taishi-do or 8hdry6-in, .which is said to be in the same style as the Shishin-den or Chief Reception Hall of the ancient palace of Nara, is an image of the prince at the age of 35, attributed to himself, and a Nyo-i-rin Kwannon and Jizo by a Korean sculptor of the 6th century.

We now approach the chief temples, which are contained in an oblong enclosure surrounded by a large closed gallery or hwairo. The Ni'd in the two-storied gateway are remarkable statues ; the black one is carved out of a single cryp- tomeria trunk, and the red one opposite is of wood covered with clay. The Kondo, which stands a little on the 1. of the entrance, and the pagoda, are all that are left of the original buildings, and are the oldest wooden structures in Japan, their age being more than twelve centuries and a half. The Kondo contains, on the S. side, a bronze image of Buddha, for- merly gilt, attributed to Tori Bus- shi, flanked by Yakuo Bosatsu and Yakujo Bosatsu. On the E. side is Yakushi Nyorai, also by Tori Bnsshi, with Nikko Bosatsu and Gwakko Bosatsu r. and 1. The W. side is occupied by Amida, accom- panied by Kwannon and Seishi. These three images were cast in 1231 to replace the original ones, which had been stolen. The wooden figures of Tamon-Ten and Kichijo- Ten date also from the middle of the 13th century. The Shi-Tenno are by two Chinese sculptors, and belong to the middle of the 7th cen- tury. The bronze image of Yaku- shi and the wooden figure of Fu- gen are said to have been brought to Japan by the Indian priest whose name is translated Zemui. On the N. side is another bronze

Amida, flanked by Kwannon and Seishi, said to have belonged to Komyo Tenno (A.D. 1336 to 1348). The lanky wooden figure of Koku- zo Bosatsu, "8 ft. high, and the wooden Kwannon are said to be Indian. The walls are covered with paintings of Buddhist sub- jects, executed in a noble manner, attributed to the sculptor Tori Bus&hi and a Korean priest of the same early period. These are of extreme interest and value for the history of art in Japan. Of their great antiquity there can be little doubt, and the excellence of the style in itself confirms the opinion that they are the work of Korean artists, for they are superior to anything known to* have been produced by Japanese painters. The ground-floor of the pagoda con- tains some very curious tinted terra-cotta groups ascribed to Tori Busshi; on the S., Amida with Kwannon and Daiseishi ; on the E., Monju and Jomyo Koji or Yuima; on the N., the entry of Shaka into Nirvana; and on the "W. his cremation. The expression on the countenan- ces of some of the weeping disciples is excellent; their costume repre- sents what was supposed by the sculptor to be Indian dress. The Dai'Kodo, or great Lecture Hall, on the N. side of the closed gallery, is dedicated to Yakushi and a host of other deities.

On a mound behind is the Mine no Yakushi, an octagonal building dedicated to Yakushi. This image and the twelve smaller images representing the Signs of the Zodiac are attributed to Gyogi Bosatsu. This temple is a unique sight, being literally hidden under the enormous number of short swords and metal mirrors placed there as offerings by men and women respectively, whose prayers for restoration to health have proved efficacious. Drills, pre- sented by persons who have been

826

Route 45. — Kara and NeighbourJtood,

cured of deafness, also line the walls in great numbers. The Kami no d5, a building on the r., contains colos- sal images of Shaka, Monju, Fugen, the Shjl^Tenno, a group representing the death of Buddha, and paintings depicting the eight scenes of his ex- istence, viz. his birth in theTushita heaven, his conception by Maya Bunin, his birth on earth, admission into the priesthood, temptations, perfection, preaching, and entry intoNirv&na. In the building called Sankyo-in, on the W. side of the closed gallery, is an image of Sho- teku Taishi at the age of 42, be- sides an Amida by Gyogi, a Monju, a Miroku, and the Shi-Tenno.

The principal annual festival at Horyiijiis celebrated on the 22nd day of the 9th moon, according to the old Japanese calendar.

[Some 12 cho fromHoryuji stands Tatta, formerly pronounced Tatsuta, which is famous in Japanese poetry for the maples lining the banks of the river that passes by it. Near Horyuj i too is the misasagi, or tumulus, of Suinin Tenno, a prehistoric Mikado supposed to have reigned at the beginning of the Christian era. It is a large and striking gourd- shaped mound, planted with trees and having a broad new moat round it, and at one end a small torii forming the ap- proach, to a neat gravel walk.]

Koriyama (Inn, Kiku-ya). The walls of Nara, when that city was the capital, extended almost to what is now the E. limit of thid town.

Nasa.

Nara, sometimes called Nanto by the learned (Inn8, Musashino, pret- tily situated in the park at the foot of Mikasa-yama; Kado-ya, convenient central situation ; both semi-foreign. Also Kiku-ya, Japan- ese; Jap. restaurant, Sawano-ya, near Kobukuji).

The chief products of Nara Indian ink, fans, and little wooden toy figures of the No performances^ called Nara ningyo.

Nara was the capital of Japan daring seven reigns, from A.D. 709 to 784, when. the Emperor Ewammu removed the cott> of government to the province of Yairut- shiro. The town has at the present day probably but a tenth of its former dimen- sions. It is situated in the North of Yamato, close to the boundary of Yama- shiro, and at the foot of a range of moctzi- tains which runs N. a^d S., rouglily dividing the upper part of Yamato into two halves. The site where the palace stood is about three miles W. of the to^m on the Hokkeji road.

From the Musashino inn, tlie chief sights of Nara may be con- veniently taken in the following* order on the way back to the rail- way station.

. Kasnga no Miya.

This temple is dedicated to the ancestor of the Fujiwara family, the Shinto ^od. Ama-no-Koyane, to his wife, and to the gods or mythical heroes Take-mikazuchi and Futsu-nushi. It is said to have been founded in the year 767, at the desire of Take-mikazuchi, who rode up to Nara on a white deer in search of a new residence, and then summoned the other three gods to come and dwell with him there. The great yearly festival is held on the 17th. December.

From the inn the path descends the stops past the shops wh'ere the Nara ningyo and articles made oat of deer's horns are sold, crosses a bridge over a tiny stream called the Izagawa.) and turns up to the 1. through a red paintod -tomple de- dicated to Otozu Tenno, under which name Susa-no-o is frequently worshipped. It then continues through the wood to a clearing at the back of the tomple, where tame deer usually congregate in the expectation of being fed, and, passing through rows of stone lanterns of which it is said that no one knows the number, enters the Main Temple through a side gate in the 8vjikai-no-Ma, a gallery attributed to the famous carver Hidari Jingoro. The bright red of the temple edifices and the count-

Kdsuga, TamiUce-yaina. Ni-gwatsU'dd,

827

less brass lanterns with which they are hunfif, contrast strikingly with the reposeful green of the magni- ficent cryptomerias all around and between the buildings. The open shed called the Haiya, or Oratory, where in ancient times the Dai- niyos used to come to worship, is now used by the townspeople on the evening of tha ' Hetsuhun (3rd February) for the performance of the ceremony of scattering beans to expel evil spirits. In the S.W. <jorner of the outer gallery is a small shrine to Saruta-hiko, the god who is supposed to be lord of the soil.

According to the myth, this |?ocl made an agreement with the god of Kashima to lease 3 ft. of eailh to him ; but the latter fuiiniugly enclosed 3 ri square of ground tlirring the night, pretending that the • three £eet * in the ctmtract referred only to the depth of soil. It is the popular l>elief that, in conaetiuence of this trick x)f Take-mikazuchi, no ti-ee on Kasuga- yama sends its roots more tlian 3 ft. below the surface.

At the end of a long avenue of standing lanterns to the r. of the Main Temple stands the Wakamiya, a temple dedicated to Ama-no-oshi- kumo, son of Ama-no-koyane. Many of the lanterns which line the approach are lighted every night. Formerly, when the annual subscriptions for that purpose were liberal, all were lighted, and the 43ffect produced among the dark evergreens of the gi'ove was highly picturesque. In front are an oi)en shed where pilgrims bow down, and a long low building occupied by the priests. A few young girls are in attendance to perform the ancient dance <»lled kagura. Their dress consists ■of a pair of wide red trowsers, a white under- garment, and a long gauzy mantle adorned with the Kasuga crest of wistaria. Their hair is gathered into a long tr^ss which hangs down behind j a chap- let of artificial flowers — the wis- taria and scarlet single camellia, — is worn on the forehead, and the

face is plastered thickly with white- lead powder. The girls hold in their hands, as the dance proceeds, now a fan, and now a bunch of small bells. The orchestra consists of three priests who perform on the drum and flute, and sing a hymn. The payment demanded is from 50 sen up to $10, according to the length of the performance. The Oka-no-in, a temple beyond the Wakamiya, is uninteresting.

Returning to the Musashino inn the way he came,* the traveller can go for a short way by jinrikisha through the wood to the • Tamuke-yania no Hachiman, an- other red and white Shinto temple, now somewhat decayed, but cele- brated in Japanese poetry as the scene of an ode by Sugawara-no- Michizane, included in the famous * Century of Poets ' (Hyaku-nin Is- shu), which all Japanese have by heart. It says :

KoHo iahi tea

Nuw. iuo iui'i-aezu Tumnke-mma^

Momiji no nitthiki

Kami ho hiani-mani

which mfcy be roughly rendered thus :

* This time I bring with me no offerings; the gods may take to their hearts* content of the damask of -the maple-leaves on Mount Tamuke' — the allusion being to the maple-trees which grow in plenty on this spot. The brightly coloured biural picture in the build- ing 1. on entering represents the encounter at the E>ashd-mon in Kyoto between Watanabe-no-Tsu- na and the ogre. Leaving Tamuke- yama, and passing the temples of San-gwatsu-do and Shi-gwatsu-do, now too much decayed to deserve more than a parenthetical re- ference to the great gaunt images contained in them, we reach the

Ni-griratsii-do, a fine Buddhist temple of original aspect. It seems to cling to the side of the hill against which it is built out on

B28

Eoute 45, — Kara and NeigJilourhood.

piles, and is led up to by a steep flight of stone steps, while a perfect cloud of metal lanterns liung all along the front lend their quota of peculiarity to the general appearance. Parallel to the flight of steps on the other side, is a gallery called Taimatsu no Roka, or Torch Gallery, because torch-light processions wend their way up it on the great festival night, the 3rd February. It is believed to be miraculously preserved against danger from fire. The view over the town from the front is fine, magnificent timber and the tiled roof of the Hall of the Daibutsu l)eing the most noticeable features.

The Ni-grwatsn-do, which is dedicwted to Kwannon, was founded in A.D. 752, though the present buildinar is only about two cen- turies old. Aooording to tne leeend, a tiny copper image of Kwiinnon had been picked tip, which possessed the miraculous qua- lity of being w.^rm likf livinar flesh. Evei: 8tiice it WHS enshrined in this temple, the custom has been i.o hold a special series of services called Datton no Okonni during the first hnlf of the second month of the year, whence the name Ni-gwatsu-do (Hall of the Second Moon). TJ-e image is ex- posed for udoiation on the 18.h of each month.

Descending the Torclf Gallery, we reach a well called Wakasa no J, contained in a small building which is opened only on the 1st February of each year.

The les-end siys that when the founder dedicited the temple, the god of On>tiin the province of Wnkasa begged leave to provide the holy water, whereupon a white «nd a black cormorant flew out of the rock and disappeared, while water gushed forth from the hole. From that time the str»am wh ch had flowed past tlte chapel of Onytl dried un. its waters having been transferred to the Ni-gwrttsu-do. L ical report tells of tinbelievers having become convinced <»f the truth of the miracle by throwing rice-husks into the original spring in WakasH, which turned up after a due interval in the spring here at Nara.

We next reach the enclosure of Todaiji, first passing the famous bell which hangs in a substantial belfry,

This great bell was cas^ in AD. 732. Its measurements are height 13 ft. 6 in., greatest diameter 9 ft. 1.3 in., and ete&teBt

thicknes«i at the edge 8.4 in. (Japane«?» measure). Nearly 36 tons of copper and 1 ton of tin were used in the casting.

and then proceeding downhill through the wood to the hugre, imgainly building which contains the Daibiitsn, or Gigantic Image of Buddha, larger than the one -at Kamakura, though much less ad- mirable as a work of art.

Foimded by f^homu Tenn5, the temple of Todaiji w«8 completed about the year 760, but on a mnch grander scale than it now presents. The actual building con- taining the Daibutsu, though it dwtes only frofn the beginninsr of the 18th centnry, is already much wenther-wom and out»»f the- pen>pndicular. Its dimensions are stated as follows: height 156 ft., length of front 2£0ft., depth 170 ft.

The Hall has recently been so arranged that one may enter with- out taking one's boots off. Indeed the whole place has lost its religious character, the side and back part of the building having been turned into an exhibition, thus producing an impression of desecration which is extremely painful. The height of the image is said to be 53 ft., or 7 ft. higher than the Daibutsu at Kamakui*a. It is in a sitting posture, with the legs crossed, the right hand uplifted, with the palm outwards and the tips of the fingers about on a level with the shoulder, and the left hand rest- ing on the knee with the back of the fingers towards the spectator. The body of the image and all the most ancient part of the lotus-flowers on which it is seated are apparently formed of plates of bronze 10 in. by 12 in., soldered together, except the modern parts, which are much larger castings. The petals of the reversed lotus seem to be single castings, and the head, which is much darker in colour, also looks like a single piece. A peculiar method of construction is said to- have been adopted — namely, of gradually building up the walls of the mould as the lower part of the casting cooled, instead of construct- ing the whole mould first, and

The Daibutsu.

829

then making the casting in a single piece. The thickness of the casting varies from 6 in. to 10 in. The original parts of the upturned lotus forming the image's seat, are engraved with representations of Buddhist gods and of Shumisen (Sanskrit, Sumet'u), the central axis of the universe, surrounded by various tiers of heavens. Here and there traces of substantial gilding are visible, which lead to the conjecture that the whole image was probably gilt when first made. The modern head is ugly, owing to its black colour, and to its broad nostrils and swollen cheeks. Behind it rises up a briglftly gilt wooden glory con- taining large images of Bosatsu. Visitors are allowed to walk up a scaffolding to inspect the upper and back parts of the image. On the Daibutsu's r. hand is a gilt image of Kokuzo Bosatsu, which, though 18 ft. high, looks as nothing in comparison. To the 1. is a Nyo-i- rin Kwannon of the same size. Both these subordinate images -date from the beginning of the 18th century.

Tlie history of the Xara Daibutsii is as follows. In the year 736 the Empei-or Sho- rn ii conceived the idea of constructing a colossal Buddhist image, but fearing to -offend the native gods, sent the priest Gyogi to the Sun-Goddess's temple in Ise to present her with a relic of Buadha, and find out h6w she would regard his project, iiyogi passed seven days and nights at the foot of a tree close to her gate, at the «nd of which time the chapel doors flew open, and a loud voice i)ioncuaced an oracular sentence which was interpreted in a favourable sense. On the night after the priest's return, the MiUado dreamt that the Sun-Goddess api)eared to him, and announced her approval of his plan of ■erecting a Buddhist temple, and be in con- tie* pience determined to have an image 160 ft. high made of gold and copper. A proclamation was issued in 74i, calling ujwn the people to contribute, and in 744 the Mikado himself directed the construc- tion of the model. The image was to \ye <'ast at Shigaraki in Omi, the then capital; Vmt two years later the Court removed to Nam, and the image was not completed. In 747 Shomu began the casting of an- other image, and with his own hands carried earth to form the platform.

Eight attempts in all were made, whicb. were finally crowned with success ia 749. As Japan had not up to that time produced any gold, the Mikado was in despair lest he should not be able to procure enough of that metal to gild it all over; but the discoveiy of gold ia Osha in the same year came oi)portunely to supply the want. In b59 the head erf the image fell off, but was replaced. In. llbO the whole building was destroyed by fire in a civil war, and the head of the image was melted by the flames, but both temple and image were restored fifteen, years later. The temple was bjirnt again in 1567, and once more the head of the image fell off. It wafe replaced not long after at the expense of a private in- dividual. From this time the tinage re- mained exposed to the elements in the condition of a nure-botoke (wet-god), as the Japanese familiarly sav, until the reconstruction of the temple some 130 years later. The deity represented is Koshana, or Birushana', an impersonation of light— a Buddhist personage easily identified by priestly ingenuity with the ShintS Sun-Goddess.

Immediately behind the great image are shown some eighth cen- tury masks, tiles of the original temple, a coloured statuette of the abbot Kokei Shonin who built the present edifice, etc., etc. The Ex- hibition proper — the exhibits being- set out in cases all round the inner walls of the Daibutsu-do — is ex- tremely interesting, for the antique objects shown are very numerous and undoubtedly genuine. To begin with, there is a large number of ancient wooden statues, chiefly Buddhistic, brought together from various smaller temples in Nara and elsewheie. Some of them re- tain traces of rich colouring. Then there are carvings in high-relief of the 12 followers of Yakushi, at- tributed to Kobo Daishi and evi- dently very old, — a grotesque but spirited set. Next we come to some curious old reliquaries, mo- dels, musical instruments, swords, ancient boxes, articles in lacquer, pottery and porcelain, woven stuffs, masks used in the pantomimic dances of early days, and horse- trappings. At the end are some absurd peep-shows.

In the spacious courtyard in.

830

Iloute 45. — yara and NeighhoiirlioocL

front of the Daibutsu-do is a remarkable ancient octag^onal bronze lantern, with Buddhist images and conventional animals. It is ascritel to a Chinese artist of the 8th century, and is ore of the earliest specimens of snch work. Behind the Dai)mtsn-do, in the wood, is a celibrated store-house in which, over 1,000 years ago, specimens of all the articles then in daily use were put away, thus forming an invaluable archseolo- ^ical niusenm, which, however, is nnforttinately not open to the public. The visitor leaves the grounds of Todaiji and its Daibutsu by two large gates, called respec- tively Niten-mon and Ni-o-nion. The latter has in the exterior niches a colossal pair of Ni-o^ which are considered admirable specimens of that class of sculpture. They are attributed to Kwaikei, about the year 1095. The interior niches contain a remarkable pair of stone lions of unknown date. Joining the great avenue which leads up to the temple of Kasuga, but walking down instead of uj) it and passing through the large toHi, we come to the Kiku-ya Hotel, beyond which, to the r., is the Buddhist temple of

Kobakiiji, conspicuous by its two pagodas. This once grand temple, foui\dcd in A.D. 7J0, was biumt in 1717 and retains little of its ancient splendour. The following build- ings may be mentioned : — the Tokondo, dedicated to Yakushi Nyorai ;

The enormous pine-tree with spreadinjj branches supported on poles in fnnit of the TSkonrtd is said to have Ijeen planted by Kdbo Daishi as a perpetual offering to the god Yakushi, instead of flowers.

the Kondo, which is full of excel- lent ancient wooden statues, amidst a crowd of which will be distin- guished a pair of Ni-o, remarkable for their correct anatomy, and considered by some connoisseurs to be the best examples of wood-

carving to be found in Japan? and the Nan-endo, an octag-onal building containing two colossal images of Kwannon.

The octapronBl shape of the buildings '» taken from the fabulous Buddhist moun- tain Fudaraku-sen (Sanskrit, Fofft/tt}, which is supposed to l)e Kwannon's favourite retieat.

The two-storied Euroi)ean build- ing close by is the Prefecture.

South of Kobukuji, under a hill^ lies a pond called Sanisawa no Ike.

The local legend tells of a beautiful maiden at the Mikado's court, who -was*- wooed by all the courtiers, but rejecte<L their offers of marriage, because she w«». in love with the Mikado. The latter had pity on her for a while ; but when ho- afterwards liegnn to neglect her, she went secretly away by night and drowned her- self in this (Kind.

The small platform at the side of the road to the r. of the pond is for the use of pilgrims desirous of performing from a distance their obeisances to the Mausoleum of Jimmu Tenno (see p. 332). Near the outskirts of the town in this- direction are the tumuli of the Em- perors Kaikwa and Shomu — mere mounds interesting only to the professed antiquarian.

This ends the sights of K"ara. Those with a little time to spare- might devote it to walking up Mikasa-yama close behind the Mu- sashino Hotel. From the stone at the summit (6C0 ft. above the base), a fine view N.W. is ob- tained of the Kizugawa vallejv and "W., of the plain of Nara stretching away to the mountains which divide it from the province of Kawachi. The town of Kori- yama lies S.W.

[Seven ri to the N.E. of Nara, up. the course of the Kizugawa,. is the village of Tsiiki^ase,. famous for its plum-tree or- chards, which line the stream for upwards of 2 ^., and diffuse a delicious scent in March when they are in blos- som. No other place in Japan

Jtoute 46. — Through Yamato to Koya-san,

dSl

can boast such a show of the pink and white flowers of this fragrant tree. Some rapids, which occur a little lower down the conrse of the river, afford a pleasant change for a portion of the return journey to Nara; or else the traveller may join the Kwansei Bailway at Tsuge, and proceed either W. to Kusa- tsu and Kyoto, or E. to Yok- kaichi and Tokyo.]

A pleasant short day's excursion for travellers staying at Nara is to take the train to Hdryuji, and, after visiting the temple there, to pro- ceed by jinrikisha to Yakushi-ji, a run of about f hr. This ancient temple, also known as Nishi-no-Kyo, is now indeed sadly decayed, but the bronze image of Ewannon (Sho-Kwannon) enshrined in it is one .of the most precious legacies of Japanese — or more strictly speak- ing, Korean — art. The temple pos- sesses numerous other images, as do those of Shddaiji and Saidaiji in the vicinity, all formerly famous, but now on the verge of ruin owing to neglect. The jinrikisha ride back from Yakushiji to Nara will occupy about 2 hrs.

EOUTE 46. Thbouoh Yamato to the Monas-

TKBT of KoTA-SAN IN KiSHU.

MAITSOLEUM OF JIMMU TENNO, MIWA. HASE. TONOMINE. Y08HIN0. [OMINE AND OTHER MOUNTAINS.] KOYA-SAN. [WAKAYAMA.] FROM KOYA-SAN TO OSAKA.

This route includes many names that are classic to Japanese ears, and may be specially recommended to lovers of ancient religious art as well -as to seekers after the picturesque.

The start may be made either

from Osaka or from Nara ; but the former is to be preferred, as the centre of interest is then speedily reached by railway, whereas the jinrikisha ride of 5 n from Nara to Sakurai, vid Tamba-ichi and Miwa, is somewhat dull. The railway taken at Osaka (Minato-cho sta- tion) is a branch of the Osaka- Nara Railway. Travellers change carriages at Oji for Takada, the temporary terminus of the branch, which is, however, to be carried on a few miles further to Imai closfe to Jimmu's Mausol^m, and to Sakurai. Even in the present unfinished state of things (1891), which nessitates taking jinrikishas from Takada viA the Mausoleum to Sakurai, the whole trip does not occupy half a day. When the Imai station shall have been opened, the best plan will be to take train so far, and thence go by jinrikisha to Sakurai via the Mau- soleum. The roads in all this dis- trict are excellent. The itinerary of the rest of the route from Sa- kurai onwards is as follows :

Itinerary.

SAKCTEAI to :— Ri. Cho. M.

Hase 1 23 4

Back to Sakurai... 1 23 4

Tonomine 1 23 4

Kami-ichi 3 8 7|

Yoshino (about)... 25 If

Muda 1 — 2^

GOJO 4 — 9f

Hashimoto 2 3 5

Kamuro 1 — 2^

Kane (about)... 1 14 3^

Kaniya „ ... 1 J 4 3i

KOYA-SAN,, ... 1 14 3^ Back to Kamuro

(about) 4 6 lOi

Hashimoto 1 — 2^

Top of Kiimi-toge. 2 2 5

Mikkaichi 2 21 " 6i

Fukumachi 3 7 7f

SAKAI 3 21 8f

Total 37 24 92

882

RoiUe 46. — Through Yamato to Koya-san.

By train from Sakai to Osaka in 20 min.

The raising of a grand M^nsoleum to Jiinmu 'I'enno, the Japanese Romulus, nt KashiVrabara where his capital is believed to have stood, may be regarded as the culmiiiatiug point uf the triumphant la- bours of the archseolo^ioal and Shinto party;^ which, beg^in-iing early in the ISth century by the annotation of ancient texts and the re-adoption of obsolete religious usHges, has ended in our own day by restor- ing the Mikado to his long lo.-'t authority, while such comparatively modern innova- tions as tl>e Shdruuttte huve been trampled underfoot, and the foreign religion, Budd- liism, if not killed, at least deprived of official fiivbur and emolument. On Jiinmu Tenno, as the first Mikndo, and on the other early monarchs of his line, a portion of the political and religious enthusiasm felt for their latest descendants reflects it- self Yamato iitid the adjacent provinces are cove ed with the tumuli— m/»aaa^i, as they are ttrmed— of these long-neglected lulers, which, till within the last quarter of a century, were treated with scant reverence bv the peasantry who used there to cut fodder for th.nr cattle. All the tumuli have now been identified— not per- haps in every ease by methods suttiuiently strict to satisfy the European critic, but at least by painstaking reference to the oldest available sources oif the njition-il history ; iind that some greit i)ei-«onage8 were inter- red undersumeof the tumuli in question, is plain from the gold ornaments, the pottery, and other relics dugout of them during the earlier stages of the search. However legitimately destructive European criticism may be of die authenticity of Jimmu Ten- lio's history and of the claims of any particular tumulus to the name it is now made to bear, one cann >t 1 ut experience a certain fee. in? of interest und respect in piesence of such very antrient remains. This fertile plain of Yaniaio which holds them is the earliest historic < entre of the Japane e J ace, and has certainly for thirteen centuries, and prob:ibly for a miu h longer X)eriiid, been the home of a unique civili- sation. The various Imperial tumuli may now be recognised by the hairier — general- ly a gianite fence — surionnding a hillock overgrown with treps, and the stone torii standing at the entrance to a neat gravel walk. In some cases the mound is liourd- shaped, of con'<ider.iblesize, and surrounded by a moat. Jimmn Tenno's tumulus is the most sacred of these, though low and inconspicuous.

Just before reachino^ the Tiimu- Ins of Jiuimii Tennu, one passes 1. that of the' Emperor Suizei, his immediate successor. The wooded hill seen ahead is Unebi-yama, constantly mentioned by the early

Japanese poets. Jimmu Tenno's mausoleum lies at its N.E. foot, the hamlet of Kashiwabara and. the Mausoleum 8 cho to the S.W. To the r. rise Nijo-san or Futago- yama, so-called from its double peak, and the long ridge of KAtsu- ragi-yama and Kongo-zan. To the extreme 1. is Tonomine, the highest part of a range on another portion of which, further ahead, may be seen glistening the white walls of the castle of Takatori. The tumu- lus was first enclosed in 1863, the outer stone fence dates from about 1877, the granite screen (tamagaki) and large wooden torii inside the grounds and nearest to the actual tumulus, from 1890. The torii is of peculiar construc- tion, the lower portion being a sort of lattice work. None are now allowed to penetrate further than this torii, the ground being considered sacred. The chief building opposite the entrance is intended to accommodate the Im- perial messenger (chokushi-kvxm), who comes yearly to worship on the Mikado's behalf. The travel- ler will re-enter his jinrikisha to reach the Maiisolenm {Kashiwor- hara Jinja), begun in April, 1890, and not likely to be completed for some years, as the buildings are on an elaborate scale. The idea is to restore Jiinmu Tenno's palace on its original site; and as Imperialism and Shinto go hand in hand, the result is a set of structures half -palace half -temple. Two wings of the Imperial Palace at Kyoto — the Naishi-dokoro and 8hinka-den — have been removed to this spot.

The Shinka-den is a sort of shed, 72 ft. by 40 ft., in which the Mikado celelirates the Harvest Festival {ShinjO-mi). In the Naishi-dokoro, ali»o called KaBhiko-dokoro, is preserved a copy of the sacred mirror given to his ancestor by the Sun-Goddess, the original of w^hich is at her temple in Ise. When the Palace was destroyed by fire in A.D. 900, the mirror flew out of the building in which it was then deposited, and alighted on a cherry-tree, where it

Jimmu's Mausoleum. Miwa, Hose,

888

-was found by one of the Naithif a class of females who attended on the Mikado. Henceforth these attendants always had charge of it, whence the name Naithi- dok€Mro, The alternative name of Kathiko- doioro signifies the 'fearful (or awe-in- spiring) plckce.'

The Shinka-den stands in front, the Naishi-dokoro behind ; and an oratory (norito-ya) intended to con- nect the two is in course of erection. In the court will be planted an ukon no tachibana and sakon no aakuray as in the Kyoto Palace (see p. 290). On either side of this block of buildings there is to be a gallery. To the 1., outside the enclosure, is the Shinsenjo where the offerings are prepared, and beside it is the temple office. In the background, godowns are to be built for the various sacred treasures, and at the entrance a house for the Imperial envoy. The materials are plain white wood and granite.

Returning past the tumulus the way we came, and then diverging to the r., we perceive in front a liill much more like a large artificial tumulus than any other in the vicinity, but which is not account- ed such. It is called Tenjin-yama, because dedicate to the god Ten- jin. Very soon we reach the town of

Saknrai (Inn Taba-ichi), which will soon be the terminus of the railway. There is nothing parti- cular to see in the town itself. Notice only the peculiar effect produced here and at other neigh- bouring towns by the small tiled chimneys which look like miniature temple roofs stuck on above the actual roofs of the houses. A spare i hr. at Sakurai can be utilised in visiting the ancient Temple of Miwa, situated in a commanding position amid an antique grove. Though now a good deal neglected, the buildings still preserve traces of former stateliness. The temple is dedicated to the Shinto god Onamuji, and the priests who

minist-er at the altar are said to be descended from a son of that deity, named Otataneko.

The following legend concerning this pei-sonage— a legend which also attempts to expliin the etymology of the name Miwa — is translated literally from the Kojiki:

* The reason why this person called Ota- taneko was known to be the child of a god* was that the beauty of a maiden named Iku-tama-yori-]>inie seemed peerless in the world to a divine youth who came suddenly ^ to her in the middle of the night. Bo, as they loved each other and lived in matri- mony together, the maiden ere long became pregnant. Then the father and mother, astonished at their daughter being preg- nant, asked her, sxying : * Thou are preg- nant by thyself. How art thou witli child without having known a man?* She re- plied, saying : * I have conceived through a beautiful young man, whose name I know not, coming liere eveiy evening and staying with me.* Therefore the father and mother, wishing to know who the man was, cran- n landed their daughter, saying: 'Sprinkle red earth in front of the couch, and pass a 8kein of hemp through a needle, and pierce therewith the skirt of his garment.* 8o she did as they had bidden, and on locdcing^ in the morning, the hemp that had been put in the needle went out through the hole of the door-hook, and all the hemp that lem lined -was only three twists. fJap. mi wa). Then forthwith, knowing how he had gone out by the hook-hole« they went on tlieir quest following the thiead, which, re:icbing Mount Miwa, stopped at tlie shrine of the god. So they knew that Otataneko was the child of the god who dwelt there. So the place was called ty the name of Miwa, because of the three twists of hemp that had remained.'

The excellent and picturesque road from Sakurai to

Hase {Inns, Yoshino-ya, Idani- ya), leads up the r . bank of the Hase- gawa. At the entrance of the little town, which owes its existence to the sanctity of the great Temple of Hase-dera or Chokokuji, the valley suddenly narrows, and wooded hills close the road in on every side.

Founded early in the 8th century and last rebuilt about 800 years ago, this temple is one of the most striking in Japan. It is situated high up on the flank of a hill above the town, and stands half upon the rock and half upon a lofty plat- form built out from the rock, like Kiyomizn-dera at Kyoto. A lon^

884

Boute 46, — Through Yamato to Koya-san,

and steep flight of steps in three zigzags, two of which are roofed in, leads from the new entrance gate at the end of the main street. On either side of the flight of steps are beds of peonies, beautiful to behold about the end of April, when they are in full bloom. The front part of the main building is an ex-voto haU 60 ft. long, in front of which ^ is a platform built out on piles and commanding a view of the whole valley. A stone-paved corridor lined with lanterns runs between the ex-voto hall and the holy of holies, where is enshrined the enor- mous gilt image of Kwannon, the goddess of the place, whose form may be obscurely perceived by the dim light of lanterns. ' On payment of a fee to the attendant priest, permission can be obtained to enter this sanctum and stand at her very feet. The entrance is by the back, where, on either side of the door, will be remarked two little wheels used as charms where- by to prognosticate future events. The curious pilgrim ties a wisp of paper to the wheel, which he then turns rapidly. If the paper wisp is at the bottom when the wheel stops, any desire he may have formed will come true. Just inside the door is a life-size image of Kwannon standing in front of a large fresco of Shaka and the Five- and-Twenty Bosatsu of Paradise. To its 1. is an immense maindara, 18 ft. broad by 30 ft. high, represent- ing that half of the universe called by the Buddhists Taizo-kai. Both these paiigitings are attributed to Kobo Daishi, as is a large kakemono of the god Dainichi Nyorai which hangs opposite to the niandara. Thus we pass round to the great image in front, which towers to a height of 26^ ft. in the dim reli- gious light. On the 1. side of the sanctum, before emerging, is seen another mandara representing the half of the universe Kongo-kai. The two mandara together contain the

figures of 3,000 Buddhas. The Oku-no-in of this temple, instesKi of being higher up the same hill ac- cording to the usual custom, is on a separate hill 4 cho distant, and is not worth a visit. Hase-dera is No. 8 of the Thirty-Three Places ' (see p. 253). A fire, which took I place in 1883, destroyed the pago- da and also the lowest section of the- covered gallery ; but subscriptions are being raised to restore both. On the hill opposite is a temple to the Shinto god Tenjin. The Yo- shino-ya inn stands at the bottom, of the flight of stone steps thai; lead up to this shrine.

[From Hase a road leads to the shrines of Ise ; see p. 245. It is much frequented by pil- grims, who combine the Yama- to-meguri, as it is called, or Tour of the Holy Places of Yamato, with a pilgrimage to the temple of the Sun-Goddess.]

The 4 m. back from Hase to Sakurai are speedily traversed in jinrikishas, the road being a slight descent the whole way. From Sakurai likewise on to Tonomine there is a jinrikisha road ; but as it soon becomes steep and is rough in parts, good walkers are advised to go on foot. The whole way is picturesque. At Shimomura, about ^ hr. out of Sakurai, a fine granite torii marks the outermost limit of the sacred mountain, the actual Tonomine being the trifurcated summit seen ahead to the r. Many hamlets are passed through. At that of Kurahashi, but a little off the road, is the tumulus of Sujiu Tenno, one of the Emperors of the legendary era.

During some fifteen years tlie Japanese areheeolofrists hesitated between the con- flicting claims of several neighbouriTig' spots. On the present site stood the little (Shinto temple of the hamlet — a fact -which finally fixed their choice. The place was laid out after the orthodox pattern in 1891, the temple havinjr been removed to the hill opposite. The present writers, who passed there while the work was in pro-

Tonomine.

835

gr'^ss, cannot say that anything much re- sembling an artificial mound, or iudeed a mound of any sort, was discernible.

At the upper end of a village called Yainai-cho, a covered bridore leads across into the grounds of iilie justly famous temple of

Toiiomine (locally pronounced Tonomune), the way being along an avenue of monumental crypt- omerias. The magnificence of the ■fcimber, the purling of the brook InbIow, the rich green every- wliere, and the deep shade combine to make a scene at once impressive and delightful. Jinrikishas may go no further than the Ichi no Mon, or First Ghate.

This name does not indicate that there are luHiiy successive gates to be passed ttiroiigfa. There is but one on the Yainai- cho side. The JVi no Jfon^ or Second Oate, is on the other side of the moun- tain, by which the traveller departs.

The stone walls beyond it, ser- ving to keep some terraces in place, are all that remain of a large num- ber of priests' dwellings and minor temple buildings pulled down during the present reign.

The temple of Tonomine, one of the most perfect speciuiens of Kyobu-Shinto architecture, was raised in honour of a celebrated nobleman and statesman of the 7th century, named Kamatari, who had two sons, Tankiii and Joe. The latter it ■was who built the temple, bi inginj? back with him from China, whither he had been sent to study, all the materials for the thirteen-storieil pagoda, with the exception of the top storey which proved to be njore than his junk could liold. In those days, however, such mishaps were easily reme- died, and the thirteenth storey flew after him acroMS the sea in a cloud, and so com- pleted the edifice. According to tradition, Kamatari Hnd liis friends retired to this mountain to plan the assassination of Soga- no-Iruka, h nobleman who had ingratiated himself with the Empress KOgyoku, and formed the bold design of plaidng him^self on the throne. Hence the name of Dnmu no Mine, or Conference Peak, the word Damn being aftei-wards corrupted to 2o.

On arriving at the great red iiyriiy we turn to the r. and ascend several steep flights of steps, to the r. of which is a fine grove of maples whose autumn tints are

celebrated. Again turning to the r. at the top of the steps, we find ourselves at the honsha, or main shrine, connected with an oratory in the somewhat unusual form of a gallery, which now wears the as- pect of an exhibition, as drums, arrows, the god's sacred car, and other temple * j)roperties ' are there laid out in rows. All the temple buildings are red and white, the main shrine being furthermore decorated with gold and green arabesques and geometrical designs, besides beautiful carvings of birds and elaborate metal fastenings.

Round it is a paling {ta'niagalc{)t, with storks and tortoises within groups of flowers. Oreen blinds hide the doorways, to each of which a polished mirror is attached. The side chapels are dedicated to Kamatari's sons, Tankai and Joe. Dragons in sepia on a gold ground adorn the lower cross-beams of the portico, and a beautifully executed pair of bronze lanterns bearing date 1755 stand in front of the chapel. The transverse panel in the verandah on the W. side of the chapel has a white phoenix painted on it, and on the corresponding panel on the E. side is a peacock. The roof is of thick shingling. As at Kasuga in Nara, a troop of young girls and musicians are in readiness to perform the kagura dance for a small fee. The other principal object of jnterest is the small thirteen-storied, or more correctly speaking thirteen- roofed, pagoda. There are nume- rous other buildings in the grounds, many of which are now left empty, as the Shinto cult has no use for them. One, seen on the way down and showing traces of elaborate decoration, is the burial- place of Kamatari's mother. The two great festival days at Tono- mine are the 16th April and I7th November.

Close to the exit from the temple enclosure is an excellent inn called

:886

Route 46. — Throuffh Yamato to Kdya-san,

Hananaka-ya^ kept by a former priest. A short but steep ascent leads up hence to the Nino Mon, or Second Gate, where the temple grounds are left. Hence it is a good i hr. walk to

Hhiken-jnya> a hamlet which belies the import of its name (lit. * four tea-houses ') by having no tea-houses at all. It affords, how- ever, a fine viefe of the plain stretching towards Nara. Begin- ning at the r., the mountains seen are : Tempo-zan, Futago-yama, Katsuragi-yama, Kongo-san; next, but in the much further distance, Koya-san, and to its 1., that is to the S. of the spectator, the sea of mountains covering southern Ya- mato. Close to the spectator is a tumulus called Uba-ga-mori, mark- ed by a clump of trees and the usual railing. Half the horizon — the N. and E. side — is unfoi-tunate- ly shut out from view by rising ground close by. From Shiken-jaya to the top of the Ryumi-toge is called a distance of 1 ri, but can scarcely be so much. The way lies mostly through a delightful wood of cryptomerias and chamsecy- paris trees ; nor need the lover of timber fear that the bare streaks on some of the hill-sides indicate impending disafforestation. The Japanese plan is not to thin out timber gradually, as we do, but to shave whole hill-sides bare and then let them alone for many years, while others are similarly treated in rotation. This method saves trouble, as all the timber is simply rolled down without encoimtering Any obstacle to the bottom of the valley — if possible, to a stream where it is floated down, either in separate trunks, or where the breadth of the stream admits of it, in the form of rafts.

The view from the Eyuzai-toge, though pretty, is less extensive than that from Shiken-jaya. The way onward is downhill, with the exception of the short Yumihari-

I toge. Several hamlets are passed

through before entering

Kiiuii-ichi (Inn, Tatami-ya), &

fair-sized town on the r. bank a£

the Yoshino-gawa. The view up

the river is pretty, and those to

whom the classical literature ot

Japan is familiar will be intere steel

to gaze on Imoyama, the conspicu^

ous and thickly-wooded hill about

I m. distant.

The early erotic poets of Japan make constant mention of Imose-yaniat wliivh nairie is interpreted to mcHri Imo-yama and Se-pama^ or * Mount Lady-love ' aud ' Mount Lover.' The former of the two is here at Kami-ichi ; but no * Mount Lover* can be found in actual gec^aphy to oor- respond with the orthodox intei pretaticMi. Various explanations have been proposed. Some say that he has been separated from his mistress and washed away down the river, while otliers go so far as t4) hint that» like the much-quoted Mrs. Huxris, he never existed at all.

We now cross the river to the town on the other side, called ligai, the crossing being effected by bridge in winter, by ferry in summer.

A similar curious arrangement obtains at other places along the course of this river. The reason is that the summer floods often pour down with such cesistless force as to sweep all before them. Of course the bridges erected for use during the dry season are not costly, and the pieces are stowed away to do service again the following year.

The temple buildings at ligai, standing on a slight elevation and having a parapet in front, belong to the Monto sect of Buddhists. Proceeding a short way down the stream and then turning S., we enter the lower hills. Cherry-trees line the path and cover the hill- side for a considerable distance up to the entrance of the small town of

Vosliino ( Inns, * Tatsumi-ya, Fukuchi-ya), which is built along the top of a narrow spur, and con- sists almost entirely of inns and of shops for the sale of articles at- tractive to i>ilgrims.

[Yoshino may also be reached in about 6 ri direct from Jimmu's

Yoshino.

837

MaQsoleum, vifi, the castle of Takatori. Almost the whole distance can be done by jin- rikisha.]

"Yosliino's nsiially sleepy aspect is exchanged for all the bustle of a camp during the week or ten days in mid- April when the cherry-trees are in flower.

These trees, "which are sn|->posed to num- ber exactly a tbouBHnd, have for centuries been famous thruugrhout Japxn, and de- «»rve to be famous tbrou^^hout the world. Tliere is no pig}it comparable to them for beauty when covered with delicate pale pink blossom, except perhaps the plum- trees of TBuki}?»8e in tlie north of the sanie province. But the cherry-blossoms of Yo- nhino enjoy a far wider reputation. Fur- tlier up the mountain-side, beyond the to-wn of YoKhino, is a second plantation of these beautiful trees.

Half-way up the town are the remains of a huge bronze tovii iHiilt of broad rings 3 ft. in dia- meter. It was blown down by a typhoon in 1888, but is to be set up again. It indicates the approach to Zo-O'do, one of the largest tem- ples in Japan.

Founded by Gyogi Bosatsu early in the 8th century_ as an offshoot of the temple raised on Omine by his master £n-uo- 8h5kaku, this temple has undei-gone many vicissitudes. The present buildings date, for most part, from 1591. Early in the present reign, they were tnken from their Buddhist occupants and handed over by the Government to the Shintoists ; but in 1886 they were handed back from the 6hintoist8 to the Buddhists, when the colossal statue of Zo-o Gongen and the other temple pioperties were restored to their original places, though with a some- what din;inL<jhed lustre.

A large red two-storied gate and two flights of steps lead up into the court fronting the great temple hall. The pillars supporting this lofty building are huge trunks, lopped of their branches and roughly trimmed. Their gradually tapering form recalls the way in which the stone columns of Doric temples derived their shape from the primitive trunks which they re- placed . One of the pillars is a gigan- tic azalea, at least 30 in. in diameter, brought from Mt. Omine, where

those shrubs frequently attain to an enormous size, though seldom reaching the bulk of this specimen. Ex-voto pictures of proportionate dimensions and great age adorn the walls of the portico. The huge image of Zo-o Gongen behind the altar, carved by Gyogi Bosatsu, is 26 ft. high and of terrific aspect,, and is flanked by statues scarcely less colossal (22 ft.) of Kwan- non and Miroku. All three lift their r. foot to trample on the clouds, and the 1. to trample on the four great oceans. Their stern expression shows that their minds are bent on repressing the demons of which the universe is full.

A little further on is Yoshijiina Jinjii, a small temple in which YoshitsiTne and Benkei are said to have si)ent three years, and which later, in the 14th century, served as the abode of the fugitive monarch Go-Daigo. Every tree,, every stone in the enclosure has a name recalling some act of one or other of these three personages, — the tree to which Yoshitsune made^ fast his horse, the rock into which Benkei drove two iron nails to prove his strength after seven days of abstinence, etc. The room which Go-Daigo used to occupy is stilf shown, as are a variety of works of art. On the hill opposite is the temple of Nyoinnji where Go- Daigo lies buried.

There are several minor temples, but Zo-o-do will probably be found sufficient by most travellers. Yo- shino is noted tor its Icuzu, a kind of starch, which is sold both jDure and also as a sweetmeat in the shape of cherry-blossoms, a real blossom of last season's blooming being enclosed in each daintily done up box. The starch, when properly made, is very palatable, and almost indistinguishable from American corn starch.

[Yoshino is the name, not only of

888

Route 46, — Through Yainato to Koya-san,

the town, but of the surround- ing extensive tract of wild mountainous country, to ex- plore which the town affords a convenient starting-point ; and neither the mountaineer nor the botanist will regret devoting some days to this object. The peaks vary from 5,000 ft. to 6,000 ft. in height. The names of the principal ones are Misen, Shaka-ga-take, Omine (locally pronounced Omune), Inamura, and Shi- chimen-zan. The narrow val- leys intervening between their spurs support a scanty but industrious population, who, by terracing even the steepest hill-sides, are able to raise a sufficient crop of barley for their existence. Yet a vast tract is uninhabited, and much of this is even un- traversed. Boars and the goat- faced antelope are plentiful, and a few deer and bears and an occasional wolf are also to be seen. The boars are so numerous, that throughout the region all cultivated plots have to be protected from their inroads by strong stockades called shishugaki, and it is not unusual to see a whole valley thus fenced in. The summits are almost without exception clothed at high elevations with foi'ests consisting chiefly of conifers, beeches, and oaks both evergreen and deciduous, magnolias, etc., but the lower slopes are not vmfrequently covered with plantations of cryptomerias, and chamaBcy- paris. There aj'e also a few small copi)er-mines, but timber- cutting and timber-dressing form tlie chief employment of the peasant population.

The ascent of Online, though not really dangerous, is so steep in pai-ts that some bits have to be accomplished by

means of ladders. The dis- tance from Yoshino to the top is 6 n, the expedition there and. back occupying the whole of & long day. The summit is sa^ cred to the Buddliist saint who first trod it, En-no-Shokaku» and there, in front of a temple erected in his honour, may be seen several fine bronze images, which represent him equipped for a pilgrimage, with one> toothed clogs on his feet, and accompanied by the faithful demons Zenki and Goki. The view is very fine, even the cone of Fuji being visible on a clear day, though no less than 180 m. distant. _

Fyom the summit of Omine, the traveller who is equipped for mountain work and pro- vided with a sufficient supply of provisions and porters, may make the ascent of Misen and Shaka-ga-take, descending to a place called Dorogawa at the foot of Omine, which, being resorted to by pilgrims bound for Koya-san, possesses several inns. The distance from O- mine to Misen is probably not more than 18 to 20 m., but the path is difficult, constantly ascending and descending, and progress must inevitably be slow, owing to the necessity of carrying cooking utensils, sleeping quilts, and rice for the porters. The whole of one day will be required to reach Mi- sen, one more to Shaka-ga- take, and a third to Dorogawa, A water-vessel capable of con- taining a day*s supply and a sufficiency of warm clothing should be taken, as even in. July the thermometer may sink to oO^ Fahrenheit at night. From Dorogawa to Koya-san is one very long day's walk. Most of these mountains afford but little view, on account of the thick vegetation coverjng

Road from Yoshino to Kdija-san.

889

them ; but the botanist will be correspondingly rewarded.]

On leaving Yoshino for Koya- san, a walk of 1 hr. affording a succession of delightful views leads •down to the Yoshino-gawa, which is crossed at a point shortly below Kami-ichi, from a village called Saso on the 1. bank to one named

Muda, or Matsnda (Inn, Hara- ya), on the r. The extremely sliarp peak seen to the r. on the .-way down is the Takami-toge on the borders of the province of Ise. It is interesting to watch the rafts descending the river. Though very long, they glide easily among the shoals, under the management of a skilful steersman, because built in sections having a partly inde- pendent motion like the carriages of a railway train. Jinrikishas can be taken the whole way from Muda to Kamuro. The road, which leads down the r. bank of the river, is excellent and the scenery pleasant- ly rural though not calling for special remstrk. It would show to better advantage if the traveller •came from the opposite direction, as the higher mountains would then be in front instead of behind. Between the hamlets of AdA and Utto, the road diverges from the river to mount a gentle ascent called the XJno-toge. Of the high mountain mass visible from the Ada tea-house, the portion to the r. is Omine, that to the 1. Otenjo. At thehamlet of Sanzai, the road from Osaka joins in on the r., Kongo-san rising just beyond, in the near distance.

Oojo (Inn, *Mikasa-kwan) is a fair-sized town, and a good place to halt for luncheon if the start from Yoshino has not been made early enough to admit of going straight through to Kamuro. After leaving Gojo the scenery improves, moun^in masses coming forward to the 1., and the road passes over a gentle rise called the Matsuchi-

toge, where the province of Yama- to is quitted and that of Kishti entered. The river is joined again at

Hashiuioto (Inn, Take-ya),whero a ferry takes one across to the 1. bank. The vill. of

Kamuro (Inns, Kome-ya, Tama- ya) stands at the entrance of the side valley leadinpf up to Koya-san, its raison d'etre being the accom- modation of pilgrims to that shrine. Bands of .them may be found dining there at almost any time of day in spring, the fare provided being vegetarian when they are on their way up as contrite sinners^ but generously supplemented with, fish and eggs — the Japanese sub- stitutes for meat — when they are returning downwards, pardoned and at peace with all the gods. The traveller will probably be told at Kamuro that the distance to Koya-san is only 3 ri; but the ri in this mountain district is of 50 cho, which brings the distance up to 4 ri 6 cho of standard measurement, or 10^ miles English. It must all be walked, and is a succession of steep ascents and descents, the former predominating ; but the eye is so charmed at every turn that fatigue is forgotten. Several villages are passed through, of which the best are Kane (Inn, Naka-ya) and Kaiiiiya {Inn, Hana-ya). During the first half of the walk, beautiful glimpses are obtained from time to time of the Yoshino-gawa fiowing far below. There is little or no shade, and the palmettos on the hill-sides bear witness to the ex- ceptional warmth of the climate of this district. For the second half, the way leads up amidst magnifi- cent timber, chiefly conifers, which to behold and to enjoy their deli- cious shade and f ragi*ance, would of itself reward one for the expedition. Most of the finest specimens are chamsBcyparis. Strangely enough, comparatively few examples are seen of the species to which Koya-

840

Eoute 46. — Through Yamato to Koya'San,

san has given its name — the Kdya- mdki, or Sdadopijtis verticillata. This superb forest, which now be- longs no longer to the priests but to the central Government, rings with the rhythmic chant of the coolies who laboriously bear down the timber from mountain recesses situated above the monastery. It is thus conveyed to Wakayama, the capital of the province, and thence shipped in junks to Tokyo. A bridge little worthy of its high-sounding name, GoJcuraku- hcLshi, that is, the Bridge of Para- dise, marks the beginning of

Koya-Siin proper and of the last and steepest portion of the climb. The forest grows thicker and thicker till at last we reach a plain black gate forming the entrance to the temple grounds. The exception- ally fine bronze image of Jizo just outside dates from the year 1745. It was the gift of a female devotee. The smaller but handsome bronze Kwannon inside the gate to the 1. dates from 1852. From here it is but a few yards to the ^ankei-nin iori-ahirdbe-sho, or * place for the examination of pilgrims,' where the traveller will be asked whence he comes and at which temple he wishes to lodge, and will then be furnished gratis with a gtiide to conduct him thither ; or, if he have no preference and no letter of introduction, some lodging will be assigned to him. This question of the lodging is important, as there are no inns at Koya-san. The temples do duty for them — or rather the priests* residences in- cluded in the Japanese term for a Suddhist temple {iera). Many are apt to be too full of pilgrims of the lower class to afford pleasant quar- ters. The most aristocratic, in 1891, were Shojo Shin-in possessing beautiful suites of rooms, Henjo Koin, Kongo Sammai-in, and Joki- in. The people at Kamuro will probably endeavour to persuade the tourist into patronising some

inferior place with which they ar& in league. Of course no foreiga food is provided by the priestly- hosts, neither does their fara include any fish, as all takings of life is prohibited by the strict Buddhist rule which governs the monastery. The traveller, unless he be a vegetarian, must there- fore come provided. The monks will make no very strict enquiry into what he may see fit to eat, neither is he expected to abstain from strong liquors. He should remember that they are monks,, not innkeepers, and must re- frain from ordering them about. There is no fixed charge for board and lodging, but it behoves the visitor to be liberal, and to g^ve at least as much as he would in a good inn. The service of the rooms is all done by young boys, no woman being admitted to any such employment. Indeed, it is only during the present reign that women have been permitted to make the pilgrimage at all. All the pilgrims are wakened before dawn ; and the traveller may, if he likes, assist at matins, which service is performed in a hall lined with thousands of funeral tablets, prayers being offered up for the souls of those whose names are in- scribed thereon. Koya-san has no mosquitoes.

Kongobuji— for that is the proper name of the monastpry, Koyii-san beiufir only the name of the mountain on which it stands — is one of tlie oldest religious foundations in Japan. It dates from A.D. 816, having been then founded by the gi'eat saint, Kobo Daishi, to whom the Emperor Saga made a grant of land for the purpose, ^s K5b5 Daishi was on his way up the mountiiin, he met the Shinto god of the locality, who was accompanied bjr two dogs. This god promised his protection to the monastery, and in return for this the Shinto Temple of Nya, dedicated to the mountain-god's mother, was afterwards biiilt in one of the neighbouring valleys. 1'his legend is the explanntion given of the toleration of dogs on Ko^a-san, while no other animals are pennitted to enter the precincts. Other prohibitions existed in former times against musical instni- moLts, the planting of bamboos or trees

Gi'eat Cemetery of Kdya-san.

841

tliat could he turned to profit, archery and football, gambling and checkers, iMunboo brooms, and three-pronged hay- forks. The principal mediseval bene- factors of the monastery were tne Emperor Shirakawa and Hideyoshi. The lattet's nephew and adopted son Hidetsugu com- mitted , harnkiri here. Eoya-san has ex- perienced no striking reverses, thou^rh, like all Buddhist monasteries, it has suffered to some extent from the recent disestablish- ment of Buddhism. Its greatest enemy "baa been fire. The conflagrations of 1843 and 1888 were the most disastrous duiing the present century The great pagoda perished on the former occasion, and has never been rebuilt. On the latter, wlien the fire histed for two days (11th— 12th IPebruary), large numbers of the piiest-s' dwelling were swept away, but fortunately no edifice of special importance.

The sights of Koya-san take half a day to see. The first and most impressive is a monster Cemetery, through which leads an avenue of cryptomerias 1 8 cho long ; or rather the cemetery is a kind of irregular avenue laid along a mag- nificent cryptomeria forest. Not indeed that most of the bodies are actually buried here. In many cases the so-called tomb is merely a monument raised to the memory of the dead believer, who, through this nominal burial by the side of Kobo Daishi, obtains the spiritual privilege of re-birth into the Tosotsu Heaven, or into Jodo, •the Pure Land of Perfect Bliss.' In other cases, after the corpse has been cremated, the Adam's -apple and some of the teeth are sent to Koya- san, these remains being thrown into a common pit called Kotsvrdot or the Hall of Bones, in the case of persons who cannot go to the ex- pense of a separate tomb. At aU events their funeral tablets are sent to the monastery, to be prayed over daily. As one walks along the avenue, a special cicerone who has all the names by heart, points out the most important graves. Aft-er crossing the Ichino-hashi, or First Bridge over the tiny Odogawa, the monuments of the Baimyos of Sendai, Uwajima, Kaga^ and Satsuma are among

those first passed. Such noble- men's monuments may be distin- guished from those of commoners by their peculiar pagoda shape (Jap. sotoha or gorin), the five superposed parts of which repre- sent the five elements. A little off the road to the r. are the graves of the celebrated heroes Atsumori and Kumagai Naozane, and then those of the Dai- myos of Hizen, Matsumae, and Choshu; then — but we can only pick out a few names from among thousands — the early warrior Tada-no-Manju (this is the oldest monument in the cemetery), the 16th century chieftain Takeda Shingen, the Hachisuka family, li-kamon-no-Kami, the Daimyos of Tosa, the traitor Akechi Mitsu- hide whose monument has been split from top to bottom by a thunderbolt as a warning to faith- less servants, and so on ad infini- tum. In the cases of great families, many subsidiary monuments sur- round the chief one in the little en- closure, and before this often stands a tarii, the stone for which, as for all the monuments, comes from a place in the province of Bizen called Mikage, a word that has come to be the Japanese name for 'granite.' The monument of the Ichikawa Danjuro family of actors, just before reaching the Naha-no- Hashi, or Middle Bridge, is distin- guished by a thin pillar. That with a prayer-wheel in front is dedicated to Jizo, and is called the Ase-kdki Jizo, because believed to be covered every morning with the perspiration which that god's sufferings in hell for the good of the human race bring out on his body. The Daimyos of Geishu have the second largest monument in the cemetery, those of Suruga the largest of all. Next we come to that of the Imperial Princess Sei-Kwan-in-no-Miya, 28 ft. high, to those of the celebrated poet Basho, of the saint Enko Daishi,

842

Tloute 46, — Through Yatnato to Koya-san.

of Asano Takami-no-Kami, the unhappy lord of the Forty-seven Eonins, etc., etc. We next arrive at a shrine containing 1,000 gilt images of Amida, with another beside it having a statue of Kobo Daishi at the age of 42, carved by himself; and after that another temple with pictures (mandara) by the same saint of the two halves of the Buddhist universe (Kongo- Icdi and Taizo-hai). The next feature in the walk is afforded by some bronze images of Jizo, Fudo, and Dainichi, placed behind a trough of water. Believers sprinkle this water over the images, in order to benefit the. souls of their own ancestors. Immediately be- yond, is a small bridge called the Muniyd no Hashi, or Nameless Bridge, a corruption of Mi Twyo no Hdshiy or Bridge of the August Mausoleum. It is believed that no one can cross this bridge who is unacceptable to Kobo Daishi.

There is a tradition that Hideyoshi made ft pilgriimage hither after he had risen to the highest position in the Empire, and ac- companied bv the hif^h-priest alone came at night as far as the bridge, crossed it, and turned back again without going a? far as the tomb, thus satisfying himself that the slaughter he had been compelled to make of his enemies in order to seize the supreme power and restore peace to the nation, was approved by Kobo Daishi, and that he might now pay his formal visit on the morrow in full state, accompanied by all the piinces, -without fear of being put to shame before them.

A separate enclosure to the 1. contains the unpretentious monu- ments of several Mikados. We next reach the Ma'nddrd, but first look in at the octagonal Kotsu-do, or Hall of Bones alreaidy mention- ed, and peer through the gate of the Cro Bydy or Tomb of Kobo Daishi^ which is never opened save on the 2l8t day of the 3rd moon, old style, when new vestments are provided for the dead saint. We also perceive two small Shinto shrines just showing through the thick trees. The Mandoro, or HaU of Ten Thousand Lamps« is a wooden

building 100 ft. long, and some- what less than half that in <^pth, with closed grated shutters. As far as the eye can penetrate the darkness of the interior, countless brass lamps may be seen ranged in rows. Of these only about one hund- red are kept lighted, the present reduced state of the monastery's exchequer not permitting more lavish expenditure.

No offering can be more acceptable in the eyes of Buddhistic piety than burning lamps, which typify the refulgent wisdom of the gods Daiuichi and Araida. A story is told which recalls the Bible story of the widow's mite : — Ou some great occasion a rich man presented ten thousand lamp9» while a poor woman, who had nothing, cat off her lopMT tresses to make up money enough to present a single lamp. Nevertheless her offering was the more acceptable of the two ; and when a gust of wind arose, the rich man's ten thousand lamps were all blown out, but the poor woman' 8 single lamp shone on with increased brilliancy. Accordingly the largest lamp in the hall is called the Hiaja no IttG, or Poor Woman's Single Lamp.

So far the Cemetery. The tra- veller now returns the way he came, and, after picking up his luggage, will see the rest of the sights on his way back to the gate leading in the direction of Kamuro.

Leaving the temple where we have lodged, we wend through the village, accompanied as before by our priestly guide, sad traces of the great fire of 1888 being visible all around. First we visit the Kongo Buji, or abbot's residence, an un- usually handsome specimen of Japanese domestic architecture, adorned with gold sliding screens by Kano Tan-yu, Sesshii, Tan- zan, and other classical artists. An old-fashioned arrangement to be seen here, as in others of the monks' residences, is what is called the irori no nia, or * hearth room,* which is an apartment having a large square chimney like a pillar and with a small altar on one side. The monks sit round this heated pillar in winter to recite their scriptures. The room where

Tlie Kondo Temple, The Seminary,

848

Hidetsngn committed haraJciri has been restored exactly in the style of his period (end of 16th century).

We next proceed to the Shichi- do Garan, or temples proper, and passing by several which are un- interesting, stop to examine the Kondo, or Golden Kail. Burnt in 1843, but restored in 1852. this :grand edifice fully deserves its name, for the interior is ablaze yrith gold and glorious colouring. Nor is it only beautiful. The keyaki wood, of which the huge beams and columns consist, pro- claims its solidity, and even the magnificent carvings adorning the •exterior are of the same material, some of the slabs being 9 ft. long by 4 ft. high. The plan of the building is three squares, one with- in the other. The outermost of iihese squares is the uncoloured -carved shell just mentioned; that next to it is the gejin or nave, while the innermost is the naijin or chan- cel, and this it is that the artist has so splendidly decorated with •gold, with paintings of angels and Buddhist deities, and with coloured carvings of birds. Images of the deities Kongo Satta, Fudo, Fugen, Kong6-6, Qozanze Myo-o, and Ko- knzo Bosatsu stand on a raised dais, whose sides are filled in with the peony and lion in gilt open- work, while the ceiling above them glows with rich paintings of dragons having a phoenix in their midst. The shrine guarded by these images contains one of the -god Yakushi carved by Kobo Dai- shi himself. The mandara hanging to the pillars represent, as usual, .the two halves of the Buddhist universe. On leaving, notice the paintings of the Sixteen Rakan, which are about 9 ft. sq. and ex- ecuted in an extremely florid style. The holy men are painted in four groups of four each.

In an adjacent building the •gigantic gilt images of the Go-chi Nyorai, or Five Gods of Wisdom,

formerly in the Pagoda, have now their temporary abode. The Saito, or Western Pagoda, is a two- -storied building of a curiously complicated style of construction. Among other minor buildings, may be mentioned two small Shint^ shrines dedicated to the aboriginal Japanese gods who ruled the moun- tain before Kobo Daishi's advent, — ^brilliantly painted with red ochre, and forming a striking con- trast to the adjacent grey unpaint- ed Buddhist shrines; also the KyodOy or Revolving Library, ele- gantly constructed in the shape of a two-storied pagoda, and the MieidOy containing a celebrated portrait of Ivobo Daishi painted by his disciple Prince Shinnyo, the eyes of which were dotted in by the saint himself.

Leaving the enclosure that holds all these buildings, we turn r. arid see ahead the summit of Jin-ga- mine, 50 cho distant from the far- end of the great Cemetery, and affording — at least so the monks declare — a view over portions of no less than thirty provinces. To the 1. is the Seminary (Gakurin), which is not usually visited, but which is excellently fitted up to ac- commodate the 120 indoor stu- dents and 200 outdoor students who resort to it for religious in- struction. Some of the class-rooms are fitted up in European fashion with benches and black-boards, while others retain the old Japa- nese style, — mats, a sort of dais for the lecturer, and a kakenwno of Kobo Daishi at one end of the room. Each bedroom is shared by two or three students. Before meals, a long Buddhist grace is intoned. From the Seminary we soon reach the gate of the temple grounds, and leave the monastery of Koya-san by the way we en- tered it, retracing our steps down to the vill. of Kamuro.

[Instead of returning to Kamuro

844

Route 47. — From Kyoto to Ama-no-Hashidate.

and going on to Sakai, the traveller wishing to visit Wakayama (Inn, Fnji-gen), the capital of the province of Kishu, may reach it from Koya-san by walking to Shi- buta (Inn, Omi-ya), a distance of 5 ri of 50 cho each (a little over 7 ordinary ri, or about 17i m. English), and there taking a jinrikisha over a good road for 6 ri more. This is a pretty trip. Wakayama • still retains its ancient castle in fairly good preservation. The temple of Kiimi-dera, too, about 25 cho out of the town, has a charming view. The way thither leads along a por- tion of the coast noted for its beauty, called Waka-no- , lira. From Wakayama to Sakai is a jinrikisha journey of 14 ri. Coasting steamers may also be availed of.]

The whole way from Kamuro to Sakai can be done in jinrikishas, and most of it is higlily pictur- esque. One must walk up a portion of the Kiimi-toge, which affords fine views of the mountains of Kishu r., and Yamato 1.

Mikkaiclii {Inn, Abura-ya), like most other towns in the neigh- bourhood of Koya-san, lives on the pilgrims to that holy shrine, and is the usual halting-place for the night. From here on for some miles there is a succession of hills, none bowever so steep as to necessitate alighting from a jinrikisha with two good coolies. At the hamlet of Yamamoto, the plain of Izumi is seen stretching away at the spectator's feet, and soon he enters

Fiikiimaclii (Inn, Shiba-ya), a better place for those who seek quiet and attention to stay at than Mikkaichi, because less apt to be fuU of pilgrims. Thence the road leads along the broad fertile plain to

Sakai (seep. 286).

EOUTE 47. From Kyoto theough Tamba to

MiTAZU ON THE SeA OF JaPAN-

Ama-no-Hashidate. ■

Itinerat'y.

KYOTO to :— Ri. CU. M.

Kameoka 6 2 14f

Sonobe 4 21 Hi

Hiyama 3 31 9^

Ikuno 5 33 14|

Fukuchiyama 2 26 6f

Komori (Tadehara) 3 13 8i

Ogawa 2 20 6|

Yura 3 13 8i

MIYAZU 3 7 7f

Total 35 22 87

There is an excellent jinrikisha road the whole way, and carriages may be taken from Fukuchiyama to Miyazu. Those whose sole object is to visit Ama-no-Hashi- date may prefer taking train to- Tsuruga, whence steamer to Miya- zu in 12 hrs. The first stages of the journey, as far as Hiyama, ar& dull travelling; but thence onwards the scenery improves, the road crossing and recrossing the Yura- gawa amongst well-wooded hills over undulating country.

Kameoka (fair accommodation) was formerly the castle-town of a small Daimyo, as was also

Sonobe (fair accommodation). The Kwannon-toge is passed on the way to

Hiyama (Inn, the old Honjin), which is a good halting-place for the night.

Ikuno on this route. should not be confounded with the Ikuno in Tajima noted for its silver mines. Numerous uninteresting hamlets are passed before reachikg

Fukuchiyama (Inn^ *Baikatsu). The site of the former Daimyo's castle, now occupied by a Shuito*

Legend of Oeyama.

845

"temple, is worth a visit. Fukuchi- yama is girdled on three sides by mountains : N., Mitake-yama ; W., Ana-no-ura-toge ; N.E., Oni-ga-jo, w^hich derives its name from the ogre who is supposed to have in- liabited its fastnesses before he "took refuge in Oe-yama further north. His cave is still shown on the hill-side.

An alternative way from Fnku- •chi-yama to the coast is by boat <iown the Yuragawa, so called from the vill. of Yura where it debouches into the sea. But travellers are -advised to take the boat only as far as Komori, 3 ri, the current being swift down to that place, but sluggish beyond. The passage oc- cupies 2 hrs. either by passenger boat, starting daily, or by private boat. The scenery is romantic. From

K5mori (Inn, Tan-yasu); onwards there is a choice between the fine new jinrikisha road (9 n) and the •old_road (6^ ri) skirting the base of Oeyama, a name well-known in antique legend. Another name for the mountain is Senjo-ga-take.

The legend of Oeyama, which we give \3artly in the words of Mrs. T. H. James, who has told it in a story entitled ' The Ogre's Arm,' written for the Kobunsha iJeries of Japanese Fairy-tales, is as follows : —

Once upon a time there dwelt in Oe- yama a race of ogres, whose chief was -called Shuten Dqji. Now Shuten l^oji and his band used to come down from time to time upon the city of Kyoto, ■entering it by the large gate called Rasho- mon, causing great terror to all the inhabitants, many of whom they slaugh- tered and whose lovely daughters they carried away into captivity and shame. There then lived in Kyoto a brave warrior named Raiko, who had four retainers, the niost daring of whom was Tsuna. So Tsuna offered to watch alone one night for the ogres' coming. This his master permitted him to do ; and the result of his tussle with Shuten Doji was that he got the l)est of the tight, severing the mon- ster's arm and carrying it home with him as a trophy. Ogtcs are not lightly to be tampei*ed with. Accordingly a famous wizard who was consulted by Raiko and Tsuna next day, advised that the arm be put in a stro.og stone chest to be opened on no pretence whatever, while Tsuna

was to purify himself by prayer and fast- ing, and hold guard over the chest for seven days and nights without speaking to any mortal man or woman. Unless these precautions were religiously ob- served, the wizard predicted the occur- rence of some dire misfortune. Tsuna obeyed, and the ogre's arm was placed in a strong stone chest, over which Tsuna kept his holy vigil. At last one night, when the seven days and nights were almost accomplished, came a knocking at the gate.

' Who is there ? ' cried Tsuna. * It is your old aunt from the country,' an- swered a cracked and feeble voice. * Pray open the door.'

Tsuna answered, * I am under a vow to hold converse with none until seven days be past. I cdnnot open the door even to my aunt,'

' I kuow that,' returned the voice. * But I have come a long way on purpose to see you. I am foot-sore and weary; surely you will not turn me away.*

Tsuna still refused for some time ; but at last he allowed himself to be persuaded to open the door.

'I have heard of your noble exploit,' said the old woman as she entered, ' and have come all this long way to tell you how proud T am of my brave nephew.'

'And where is the ogre's arm now?* she continued, when Tsuna had thanked her for her kindness in coming to see him.

' The arm is in this stone chest,' said he.

'Is it indeed now? Well, would you believe it?— although I have lived all these many years, yet I have never in my life seen such a thing. Let me pray have one little peep at it.'

' I am sorry,' answered Tsuna, * but my vow forbids my opening the chest, or show- ing the arm to any one, even for a moment, until the seven days are past.'

At this the old woman burst into bitter tears, refusing to be comforted. There- upon Tsuna, who was a soft-hearted young warrior, could withstand her no longer.

' Just one look then,' said he, and lifted the lid of the chest.

The pretended aunt took .up the arm, and seemed to ])e gazing at it in a kind of rapture, when suddenly appearing in her true shape, which was none other than that of the ogre Shuten Doji, she shouted, ' My aim is my own again,' and imme- diately vanished through a hole in the roof.

I

Then the Mikado ordered BaikO to follow up the ogres to theh* haunts and exterminate them. An open attack would have been vain. Raik5 therefore had recourse to stratagem. He and his four followers attired themselves as wan- dering priests, and set out over the moun- tains. When they had arrived in the land of Tamba— w^andering about vaguely, for they knew not where the ogres dwelt — they one day met an old wood-cutter, who was really none other than the great god.

846

Boute 47. — From Kyoto to Ama-no-Hashidate,

of Sumiyoshi in. disfiruise. By him they were led to a stream where they found a maiden washing some . blood-stained frarments, and she, after many warn- ings which they refused to heed, led them into the ogres' cavern on Oeyama, where their appearance caused almost as much fright to the oi^es as the ogres' appearance might be supposed to cause to them. The reason was that the ogKB quailed before the superior power of holy priests of Buddha. Nevertheless the wan- derers were admitted, they were feasted, they danced for their hosts, and at last induced the ogres, who were already lialf-intoxicated, to drink some heavily dragged mke which they had brought with them for this purpose in sections of bamboo. Shuten Ddji and his Imnd all fell into a deep slumber, during which Baikd and his companions hacked them to pieces Thus was Kyoto freed from the depredations of the ogres of Oeyama.

[Near Ogawa, a road diverges to Maiznrn, (Inn, Watanabe), which possesses the best har- bour on the W. coast and has recently been selected as one of the new naval dep6ts.]

The valley of the Yuragawa, which the main road follows, grows more and more beautiful as one approaches its mouth, till at last the eye rests on the Sea of Japan with rocky islets in_the offing.

Yura {Inn, Omori), though such an out-of-the-way spot, is men- tioned in the national annals as the birthplace of Urashima Taro, the Japanese Rip Van Winkle.

The legend of Urashima is one of the oldest in the langunge, and is accepted as veritable histoiy by the literati of the older school. The original of the follow- ing poem is at least as old as A.D. 760, and probably far older :—

THE FISHER-BOY UKi.«HIMA.

*Tis Spring, and the mist comes stealing

O'er Suminoye's shore, And I stand l)y the sea-sida musing

On the days that are no more.

I muse on the old-world story. As the Ixxits gli«le to and fro.

Of the fisher-boy Urashima, Who a-flshing loved to go.

How he came not ba-ck to the village

' Though sev'n suns had risen and set. But rowed on past the Ixiunds of ocean. And the Sea-God's daughter met ; 1

How they pledged their faith to eaclb other.

And came to the Evergreen Land, And entered the Sea-God's palace

So lovingly hand in hand.

To dwell for aye in that country. The ocean-maiden and he,—

The country where youth and beauty Abide ctemallj'.

But the foolish boy said, * To-morrow I'll come back with thee to dwell ;-

But I have a word to my father, A word to my mother to tell.*

The maiden answered, * A casket

I give into thine hand ; And if that thou hopest truly

To come back to the Evergreen Land,.

' Then open it not, I charge thee !

Open it not, I beseech ! * So the boy rowed home o'er the billows-

To Suminoye's beach.

But where is his native hamlet?

Strange hamlets line the .strand. Where is his mother's cottage ?

Strange cots rise on either hand.

'What! in three short years since I left it,'

He cries in his wonder sore, 'Has the home of my childhood vanished?"

Is the bamboo fence no more ?

* Perchance if I open the casket Which the maiden gave to me.

My home and the dear old village"

Will come back as they used to be>-

And he lifts the lid, and there rises

A fleecy, silvery cloud. That floats off to the Evergreen Country—

And the flsher-boy cries aloud;

He waves the sleeve of his tunic. He rolls over on the ground.

He dances with fury ami horror.

Running wildly round and round.

But a sudden chill comes o'er him That bleaches his raven hair.

And furrows with hoary wrinkles The fonn erst so young and fair.

His breath grows fainter and fainter. Till at last he sinks dead on the shore ;

And I gaze on the spot where his cottage Once stood, but now stands no more»

From Yura the road follows the windings of the coast till it reaches a large vill. where it turns inland^ and passes through a tunnel front

EoiUe 48. — The San-indo.

847

^hose mouth Ama-no-Hashidate is seen straight ahead and Miyazu to the 1. This is a charming section of the route.

Miyaza (Inn, Ariki) is a small town having considerable fisheries and daily steamboat communica- tion with Tsuruga, 12 hrs., and occasional communication with Sakai (for Matsue in Izumo) and ^th Shimonoseki.

Ama-no-Hashidate is famous throughout the length and breadth of Japan as one of the San-keit or •Three Great Sights' of the Em- pire. Described in prosaic topo- graphical parlanc^^ it is a narrow sandy spit stretching out to sea in ^ a S.E. direction for a distance of not quite 28 cho, or nearly 2 m. Its breadth is 32 ken, that is, about 190 ft. English. An avenue of pine-trees runs right along it. The little bay which it encloses, called Iwaiaki no minato, is 1 W from E. to W., and over 1 ri from N. to S. The depth of the bay in the middle is 11 fathoms ; but the entrance is too shallow to admit any but the smallest craft. Hence, though the waves may be in seething commo- tion on one side, on the other but a few yards off there is the perfect stillness of a mill-pond. Chionji, a Buddhist temple opposite the tip of Ama-no-Hashidate, is 1 m. from Miyazu, and may be reached either by land or by boat. From Chionji passengers are con- veyed across to the tip of the peninsula in a ferry-boat, a dis- tance of some 200 yds. Such are the dry facts relating to this celebrated spot. But the magic beauty of it must be seen to be appreciated, it being, as a Japanese poet has said, past the power of words to tell. In order to see it to best advantage, the traveller should climb the neighbouring hill of Myoken-zan, where there will be spread out before him on a fine day a wondrous panorama of sea and mountains with the deli-

cate, fairy-like, pine-clad peninsula in the foreground.

The curious name of Ama-no-Haehidate, literally ' the bridge (or ladder) of heaven,* is said to have been given to this place in allusion to the ama no vJci-ka3hi, or * float- ing bridgre of heaven,' whereon the creator and creati^ess, Izanugi and Izanaini, stood when they stirred up the brine, of primeval chaos "witn their jewelled spear, the drops from which consolidated, into the first island of the Japanese archipelago. The little Shinto shrine at the point of the peninsula is. however, dedicated to Hashi- date Myojin, apparently a local deity.

EOUTE 48.

The San-indo.

the coast of the sea of japan from mitaztj westward to hagi : baths of togo-ike, ascent of daisen, matsue, kizuki and the great shinto temple of izumo,

SAMBE-TAMA. [HAMADA ACROSS COUNTRY TO HIROSHIMA ON THE INLAND SEA.]

The principal object of interest on this route is the Great Temple of Izumo. Notwithstanding the historic and religious interest of this temple, it may be doubted whether the majority of travellers will find the long and arduous land journey sufficiently repaid. An easier way of reaching it is by steamer from Shimonoseki to Sakai, but this also has its discomforts. A third way is to strike across country from Okayama or Kura- shiki on the Sanyo Railway.

348

Eoute 48, — The San-indo.

Itinerary.

MIYAZXJ to :— Ri. Cho. M.

Iwataki 2 28 6|

Kuchiono i 20 3f

Mineyama 1 23 4

Nonaka 3 23 9

Kumihama 2 8 5^

TOYOOKA 3 7 71

Yushima 2 31 7

Takeno 1 26 4}

Naraya 2 :^4 6^

Kazumi 2 2 5

Yobe 2 7 5^

Hamisaka 3 18 8i

Uratomi 4 18 11

TOTTORI 4 32 12

Takara^i 4 26 Hi

Aoya 2 25 6i

Tomari 1 34 4|

Hashizu 1 31 4^

Kurayoshi 2 16 6

Yura 2 25 6^

Akazaki 2 23 6^

Shimoichi 2 5 5^^

Mikuriya 1 29 4^

Yodoe 2 7 5^

YONAGO 2 17 6

Yasuki 2 31 7

Arashima 1 13 3|r

Kajiya 1 10 3

MATSUE 2 29 6f

Anamichi 4 31 llf

Naoe 2 9 5i

Imaichi 1 26 4^

Oda 4 7 lOi

Hane 3 7 7f

Ota 2 2 5

Omori 3 30 9i

Fukumitsu 3 14 Si

Asari 2 17 6

Etsu 1 21 3f

HAMADA 5 17 33}

Misumi 5 14 13i

Masuda 4 34 12

liura 4 10 10^

Esaki ..; 2 3 5

Siisa 1 31 4h

Uda 2 32 7

Nago 3 5 7f

HAGI.... 3 33 Oh

Total 138 31 338}

At the vill. of Iwataki there is a choice of roads to Toyooka, — the new jinrikisha road (shinddj, and a shorter way for the pedestrian over Myoken-zan to Kuchiono. This latter alternative is recom- mended, on account of the beautiful panorama which it affords of the pine-clad peninsula of Ama-no- Hashidate, described on p. 347. Luggage should be sent by the . new road to meet the traveller at Kuchiono, between which place and

Kiimihaiiia (Inns, Yoshizawa, Taniguchi) the Hijiyama-toge is crossed, commanding a fine pros- pect of the mountains of Tajima and the valley of the Sanogawa. Similarly beautiful is the descent, after passing the boundary line of the provinces of. Tango and Ta- jima, to the town of

Toyooka (Inns, Miki-ya, Oba-hei). Between here and Yushima there is a curious cave called Gemmudd.

Yushima (Inns, Yuto-ya, Ita-ya), possesses hot-springs. Here also boxes are manufactured out of wheat-stalks and mulberry wood From Yushima the road leads for some fifty dreary miles along the coast to Tottori.

[There is an alternative path further inland leading over the the Kama-toge and other steep passes — more picturesque, but not practicable for jinriki- shas. It goes through the vill. of Ylimiira (Inns, Tomi-ya, Yane-ya), locally famed for its hot sulphur springs.]

Tottori (Inns, Kozeni-ya, Ko- me-ya), now the capital of the prefecture of the same name and also of the province of Inaba, was formerly the seat of Matsudaira Hoki-no-Kami. Its chief indus- tries are cotton and silk, but its prosperity has considerably declined since the fall of feuda- lism. From Tottori the road skirts some pretty lagoons encircled by pine-clad hillocks to Tomari. The

Togo-ike, Ascent of Daisen. Matsue,

849

"traveller is, however, advised to make a detour of 1 ri 30 chb to an- other lagoon called

Tog'O-ike, perhaps the pleasant- est spot on this coast at which to make a lengthened halt. Not only are tliere excellent inns, the Yoyo- k-wan and Unryu-tei, but also good natural hot baths^ boating, and fish- ing. The springs, in their present position date only from 1882. Formerly hot water used to issue from the hillside; but a flood altered the configuration of tlie soil, sweeping away the old springs and causing new ones to gusli out in their stead. One rises in the middle of the lake, and kills all the fish that approach it. The pathway skirts the lake, leading back to the main road at Tajiri, l| ri from Togo. Soon the Amano- gawa is crossed, and the first glimpse of Daisen obtained. The road onwards through

Akazalci {Inn, Yamame-ya) is dull until reaching Mikuriya, where a path diverges 1. to Daisen, the main road continuing along the coast to Yonago.

[Daisen, or Oyama, is 6,650 ft. high, and is the loftiest as well as the most sacred mountain in the San-indo. Here dwel^ the great Shin- to god, Onamuj i - no - Miko - to. Founded in A.D. 718, the monastery owes its lasting ■celebrity to the seventh abbot, Jikaku Daishi, who is said to have landed here on his return from China, whither he had gone to study esoteric mys- teries. It attained its greatest prosperity in the 14th century, at about the lime when the hapless Emperor Go-Daigo was exiled to the Oki Islands. There were then no less than 250 temples in all on the mountain. During the Toku- gawa regime, when the centre of civilisation had shifted to

Eastern Japan, these had de- creased to 40, and now little remains but moss-covered ruins and a few monks in abject poverty. The latter eke out a hvelihood by letting rooms to pilgrims, to whom, however, their creed forbids their offering a more generous diet than potatoes and other scanty vegetables. The tem- ples are situated half-way up the mountain side; the way is execrable, but the view from the top extensive. The chief features are the Oki islands in the offing, Sambe- yama on the borders of Izu- mo and Iwami to the W., and Mikuni-yama and the moun- tains of Tajima and Tamba to the E. It is best to descend from Daisen to Kuruma Omn- ra, 1 ri from Yonago.]

Tonago (Inns, Komego, Yuwasa) is the largest town in the province of Hoki. It is a busy place in constant communication with Matsue. The distance to Matsue by road is over 8 ri ; by water only 4 ri. The latter way is to be pre- ferred, on account of the pretty scenery of the Naka-umi and Shin- jiko lagoons. Yonago is also the port of embarkation for the' Oki Islands, which lie some 40 m. to the northward.

Matsne (Inns, Omoya, Ueda), the most important town in the San- indo, is noted for its agates and crystals and for the manufacture of paper. Formerly the seat of Matsudaira Dewa-no-Kami, the re- mains of whose castle stand on a height in its midst, Matsue is & clean and prosperous city, splendid- ly situated on the borders of the Shinjiko lagoon surrounded by lesser hills, beyond which rise the blue silhouettes of distant moun- tain ranges with Daisen towering high above all. The sea-port of Matsue is Sakai^ whence there is

850

Eoute 48, — TJie San-indo,

general steam communication np and down the coast.

In order to visit the great Shinto Temple of Izumo at Kizuki, the traveller should abandon the highway, and take steamer to Hiraia near the W. end of the lagoon, whence the journey is made by jinrikisha in 3 to 4 hrs., the whole distance being 10 a '**» or 25i miles. Sambe-yama looms up in front. _

Kizoki (Inns, Inaba-ya, Oshima- j&), a quaint little town at the base of Tabiishi-yama, is famed throughout the length and breadth of Japan for the Great Temple of Iznmo (Izumo O-yashiro), which is dedicated to the god Opamuji and disputes with Ise the honour of being the most ancient and Tcnerable shrine of the Shinto religion.

The province of Izumo, and more or less the whole country eastward to Tajima and T^ngo, together with the Oki Islands, occupy a prominent place as the theatre of many of the tales forming the old Japa- nese mythology. Indeed that mythology has been traced by students to tlu^e cen- tres, of which one is KyUsha with its warlike legends of Jimniu Tenn5 and Jingd K5g5, ancestors of the Imperial line, another is Yamato which in early days seems to have had native prinoes of its own, and the third is Izumo, wherein aire located strnnge tales of gods, and monsters, and speaking animals, and caves through which entrance to Hades is ob- tained. Susa-no-o-no-Mikoto, bom from the nose of the creator Izanagi and brother to the Sun-Goddess Ama-terasu, is the hero of some of these tales. The hero of most of the rest is_his descendant Ona- muji, also called Okuni-nushi, that is, * the Master of the Great Land,' in other words, the King of Izurao, to whom later on an embassy whs sent from heaven, requesting him to abdicate the sovereignty in favour of the Sun-Goddess's descendant,

Srogeoitor of the earthly Mikados. To this e consented, on condition of having a tem- ple built for his reception and worship. Bo they built him a grand shrine on the shore of the land of Izumo, * making stout the temple pillars on the nethermost rock- bottom, and making high the cross-beams to the plain of high heaven,'— and there he is worshipped to this day, the very name of Kizuki preserving to the faithful the recollection of the pestles {kine) with which the soil was beaten {jaukn) to render the foundations firm and everlasting.

The buildings, which are in the unomamented style of pure Shinto, impress the beholder by their great size and solidity and the majesty of the approaches under succes- sions of colossal torii. The services are conducted by priests gorgeously arrayed in white and purple robes with gold figuring. The chief priest, who is supposed to be the eighty-second descendant in a direct line from the god Susa-no-o, used to be styled ITd-gami — ^that is» a god upon earth. The temple possesses many curiosities and valuable documents. Here, too, may be seen the ancient fire-drill, which, though but a simple board with holes wherein a rapidly revol- ving stick kindles sparks, is still preserved as the only lawful means of producing the sacred fire. There are nineteen other shrines, not consecrated to any deities in par- ticular, but in which all the Shinto gods and goddesses are supposed to assemble during the month of October. For this reason October is, in Izumo alone, called Kami-^rU xvki, ' the month with gods'; where- as, in the classical parlance of the rest of Japan, it is Kami-na-zuJei, * the month without gods,' because all the other shrines of the Empire are supposed to be then abandoned by their tutelary deities. On the sea- shore is a much smaller temple — the scene, so it is said, of the abdica- tion of the sovereignty of Izumo by the 'great god Onamuji. From 200,000 to 250,000 pilgrims visit the Q-reat Shrine yearly. All day long the sound of the clapping of hands, to call the attention of the god, is unbroken like the sound of a cataract.

Owing to the ^^prominent posi- tion of Izumo in mythology and legend, many Shinto shrines, be- sides_ that dedicated to the great god Onamuji are found scattered about the province. Such are Kumano Jinja, 5 H S. of Matsue, de> dicated to Susa-no-o ; Mio Jinja, 8-

The Great Temple of Izumo,

S5l

T% N.E. of Mat sue, dedicated to Himko, the first child of the crea- 'fcor and creatress Izanagi and Iza- nami ; and Yaegaki Jinja, only 1 ri S. of Matsue, in the mountain village of Oba. The deity there enshrined, 'wife of Susa-no-o, is believed to be she who decides the lot of mar- riage for mortals ; and young men desiring good wives and young girls wishing for good husbands visit Oba to make their petitions to the goddess.

The story of Susa-no-o, of his wife Inada-hime, and of the palace with an eight-fold fence {i/a-e-gaki, whence the temple's name) which he built for her reception, is thus narrated in the Koj'i- Hi —

After having Ijeen expelled from beaven, Susa-no-o descended to a place called Torikami at the head-waters of the River Hi in the land of Izumo. At this time some chopsticks came floating down the stream. So Susa-no-o, thinking that there must be people at the head-waters of the river, went up it in quest of them, "when he came upon an old man and an old woman, two of them, who had a young girl between them and were weeping. Then, he deigned to ask, * Who are ye P * So the old man replied, saying, ' I am an

• earthly deity, son of the Great Grod of

• Mountains. I am called by the name of

• Ashi-nazuchi, my wife is called by the

• name of Te-nazuchi, and my daughter

• is called by the name of Inada-hime.' Again, he asked, * What is the cause of your crying ? * The old man answered, saying, 'I had originally eight young girls as daughters ; but an eight-forked serpent has come every year and devoured one, and now is its time to come, where- fore we weep.* Then he asked him,

• What is the serpent like ? ' The old man answered, saying, * Its eyes are like the winter cherry. It has one body, with eight heads and eight tails. Moreover, on its body grows moss, and also chamoecy- paris and cryptomeria trees. Its length extends over eight vallcj'^s and eight hills ; and if one looks at its belly, it is all con- stantly bloody and inflamed.' Then Susa-no-o said to the old man, * If this he thy daughter, wilt thou give her to me ? ' He replied, saying, * With reverence, but I know not thine august name.' Then Susa-no-o replied, saying, *I am elder brother to the Groddess of the Sun, and have just descended from Heaven.' Then the old man and his wife said, .' If that be so, we will reverently offer her to thee.* So Susa-no-o, at once taking and chang- ing the young girl into a multitudinous and close-toothed comb which he stuck into his top-knot, said to the old man and

his wife,* Do you distil some sahSf refining it eight times ; also make a fence round about ; in that fence make eight gates ; at each gate tie together eight platforms ; on each platform put a vat, and into each vat pour the sake refined eight times, and wait.' So ^s they waited after having thus prepared everything in accordance with his bidding, the eight- forked serpent came truly, as the old man had said, and immediately dipped a head into each vat and drank the mke. Thereupon it was intoxicated with drink- ing, and all the heads lay down and slept. Then 8usa-no-o drew the great sabre that was girded on him, and cut the serpent in pieces, so that the river Hi flowed on changed into a river of blood. There- upon Susa-no-o sought in the land of Izumo for a place where he might build a palace. Then he arrived at a place called Suga, and in that place he built a palace to dwell in. When he built the palace, clouds rose up thence, whereupon he com- posed a song which said

' Eight clouds arise.

* The eightfold fence of Izumo

* Makes an eightfold fence

* For the spouses to retire within. •Oh ! that eightfold fence ! *

So far this ancient tale, as given in the Kojiki. The number eight, so often men- tioned in it, is the Japanese mystic num- ber. The concluding little poem is venerat- ed by the Japanese as the earliest effort of the native muse. The tale still lives, not only in the pages of the Kojiki^ but in the hearts of the simple Izumo folk. Almost eyery spot in hill or dale has some shrine commemoi-ating an act or tracing the footsteps of Susa-no-o, of the maiden his first love, or of her parents. Eveiy place where the serpent can possibly be con- ceived to have passed still holds some legend concerning it. "

A pretty 4 ri excursion from Kizuki is to the banks of the Kobe- gawa, which, for the space of nearly a mile, exhibits charmingly fantastic rock scenery. The best plan is to take a boat down th^ river. A second, longer and very much rougher, expedition is up Sainbe-yama, the highest mountain in all this country-side, Daisen only excepted. The view from th& top over the sea of Japan and multitudinous mountain ranges is very fine. Other excursions are to Ichibata-yama, a celebrated resort for persons suffering from diseases of the eyes, who go there to be cured by the divine power of the Buddhist "^ god Yakushi Nyorai ;

S52

Roide 49, — The Island of Aivaji,

and to Harmmura which possesses delightful hot-springs, whose waters are led into every house and are equally good for drinking and for bathing in.

The main road leads right along the coast to Hamada in the pro- vince of Iwami, and thence to Hagi, the capital of the province of Nagato (Choshu); but the scenery is hardly such as to com- pensate for the roughness of the way, except in the eyes of those who wish above all things to traverse unbeaten tracks. Both Hamada and Hagi have steam connection with Shimonoseki, and also with places on the W. coast.

Hamadii {Innsy Dogu-ya, Hama- oka) is chiefly known on account of the terrible earthquake which half wrecked it in 1872, and in which over 2,000_ persons perished.

Hagi {Inrit Osaka-ya) was in early feudal times the residence of the great Mori family, the Daimyos of Choshii, before their removal to the town of Yamaguchi, 12 ri fur- ther to the south.

[There is a cross-country road from Hamada to Hiroshima on the Inland Sea, fi distance of approximately 30 ri, or say,

3 days' journey. The first part is very rough, over steep hills and with scant accom- modation; but jinrikishas can be taken on portions of the road. From Mizaka, which is on the boundary of the pro- vinces of Iwami and Aki, and where is also the water-shed between the Sea of Japan and the Inland Sea, it is down -hill almost all the way for over 12 ri to Kobe, whence a run of

4 ri on the flat takes one into the suburbs of Hiroshima.]

EOUTE 49.

The Island op Awajt.

The Island of Awaji, situated a,± the eastern entrance of the Inland Sea, can be easily reached by small native steamer from Kobe (Hyogo) in 2 hrs. to Kariya, which is the nearest port touched at. The steam- ers, after calling at Kariya, con- tinue on to Shizuki, 40 min.,. and. to Sumoto, the capital, 40 min. Awaji may also be reached by sailing or rowing-boat from AkasM or Maiko near Kobe, the distance across the strait at its narrowest part being only 28 cho, and the passage being one which is con- stantly made.

The chief distances on the island are as follows : —

East Coast— Si. Che. M.

Kariya to Shizuki 3 10 8

Shizuki to Sumoto 3 13 8i

Sumoto to Yura 2 17 6

Southern Inland Road —

Sumoto to Hirota 1 29 4^

Hirota to Fukura 3 28 9i

(Or straight across from

Shizuki to Fukura,

without going round ' by Sumoto) 4 — 9f

Western Inland Road —

Fukura to Koenami ... 2 10 5i Koenami to Minami-

dani 3 22 8f

Minami-dani to Grunge 3 — 7i (Or from Fukura to Gunge vii Minato and Kawakami, about 1 ri less.)

West Coast —

Gunge to Tsukue 3 21 8f

Tsukue to Iwaya 2 29 6f

Iwayaf to Kariya 2 19 6J

t Properly speaking, Iwaya is at the Nortli-Easterii extremity of the island. But thjs ilivision of the roads is practically the more convenient.

East Coast from Kariya to Sumoto.

85&

DiBTAKGES BY SeA FBOM AwAJI TO

THE Mainland.

Iwaya to Akashi in Ha- ^i- Cho. 3f.

rima 1 23 4

TuratoKadainKishu... 2 30 7 ^Fukura to Muki in Awa

(Islandof Shikoku) ... 3 2 7 J

A trip to Awaji is much to be Teconunended during the spring and autumn or in mild winter weather, the climate being mode- rately warm, the scenery pictur- esque, and the roads fairly good. Jinrikishas can be obtained al- most everywhere. The best inns are those at Sumoto (Nabeto and Kuwaji),Fukura(Izuman),and Gunge (Shinkuma). There is also fair accommodation at Yura (Ta- naka-ya) and at Iwaya. The other inns are rather poor, but every village offers accommodation of some sort. The tourist who wishes to explore the island thoroughly, is recommended to land at Kariya, and make the round in the order described below. This will take 3 or 4 days, according as steamers, hours, weather, «fec., may fit in. Persons pressed for time can see the prettiest part of the scenery, which lies on the E. coast, by taking the steamer from Kobe to Sumoto, and returning next looming.

Sixtory. — The island of Awaji is men- tioned in the earliest Japanese legends as the first rasult of the marriage of the creator and creatress, Izanagi and Iza- nami, when they set about giving birth to the various islands of the Japanese archi- pelago. It is also related that in very ancient times the water for the Imperial Household was brought over from Awaji in boats ; and the beauties of the harbour of Yura have been sung by poets from time immemorial. Coming down to his- torical days, the unfortunate Emperor Junnin was exiled here in A.D, 764, having been deposed by his predecessor, the Empress Koken, a sort of Japanese Messalina, who added to her other ez- oesses a wild desire for the Imperial power which was not properly hers, and who, having once abdicated in favour of Junnin, wished to re-ascend the throne. Junnin endeavoured to escape from Awaji, bat died there in the following year, pro-

bably a victim to assassination. During the Middle Ages, the lordship of the island and of different portions of it passed successively into the hands of several feudal chiefs, and finally of the Hachisukaf amUy and of their dependants, the Inada. The whole island now forms part of the Prefecture of HyOgo. The castle of Sumoto, which place has long been considered the capital, was con- structed in the middle of the 16th century by Ataka Fuyuyasu, a scion of the Miyo- shi family.

The scene as the steamer ap- proaches Kariya is most pictur- esque,— delightful little coves and peaceful nooks, pine-trees on the strand, small valleys stretching up towards verdure-clad hills, and in the distance the hazy outline of Senzan, the highest mountain on the island, and of the high land beyond. This style of scenery, ever varied in its details, continues all along the E. coast to Sumoto and Yura; and jinrikishas bowl rapidly over the well-kept road. It will generally be found best to spend the first night at Sumoto. Those having another day to spare may turn off inland shortly after leaving Shizuki, and go to Sumoto via the top of Sen- zan. Jinrikishas can be engaged as far as Futatsu-ishi, 1 ri 24 cho ; but it will probably be more satisfactory to walk the whole way, taking some 6 hours. The country is everywhere pretty. The actual ascent is about 1 ri in length. Half- way up is the temple of Koshinji, which commands a fine view in the direction of Kobe. Thence to the top the path lies through a wood of cherry-trees, oaks, firs, etc., some of the firs presenting a very curious appearance, the soil having worn away from their roots, leav- ing the latter poised high above the level of the surrounding- ground. From the summit of Sen- zan itself there is but little view, owing to the trees which crown the mountain, and which from most parts of the island give it a peculiar square-topped appearance.

S64:

Route 49. — The Island of Awaji.

The temple on the summit is called Senk5ji. It has a fine new solid gate and belfry ; but the hondo, or main edifice, and the three-storied pagodh. are old.

It« foundation is said to date from A.D. 901, when a hunter named Chtida having shot at and hit a stag (another versiou says a boar), discovered that it was in reality an imape of the merciful divinity Kwannou that he had thus sacrilegiously injured. He thereupon assumed the garb of a Buddhist monk and the Buddhist name of Jakunin, and raised a shiine to Kwannon on the spot where the incident .had occurred.

On the way down on the side towards Snnioto, that town comes in sight to the 1. with Kishu and the islets of the Kii Channel be- yond it, while to the r. are the mountains of Awa in Shikoku. From the base of Senzan to the Aiya waterfall, and thence to Sumoto, the path leads mostly across a fertile plain. Those not desirous of visiting the fall, which, though a pretty place for a picnic, is by no means extraordinary, can :go straight to Sumoto from the base of Senzan, the distance being stated to be 1 ri 14 cho.

The former castle of Sumoto no longer exists, and in its grounds a court-house and a prison have been erected. The production for which Sumoto is chiefly noted is a sort of marmalade made out of an excellent variety of orange resembling the Seville orange^ and called Naruto- mikan. It is sold in boxes with another pleasant sweetmeat com- posed of acorns, cinnamon, and sugar; and the two sweetmeats together are known by the name of uhi-liashi, or. * floating bridge,' in allusion to the legend of Izanagi and Izanami mentioned below. Another preserve special to Sumoto is the hiwa-no-ne, or * sound of the lute,' which is made of plums. Foreigners will perhaps be inclined to think that it stands to the palate in somewhat the same relation as Japanese music does to the ear. A spare day at Sumoto might

pleasurably be devoted to the ascent of KashiiDara-yamay the highest point of the S. range ot the island, commanding a very fine view inland all over the S. plains of Awaji, its distant northern hills» the sea, the coast of Kishu, • Nu- shima (the odd islet off Awaji), and some islets off the coast of Shikoku. To obtain this view it is necessary to go up through the wood behind the temple. From Kashiwara-yama one may descend to Yiira, whence there is a 2 ri ride or walk along a beautiful shore. A huge fort intended to command the Kii Channel is in process of erection at Yura.

The interest on the Southern In- land Eoad leading from Sumoto to Fukura is mainly archseologicaL There is a curious mound called Onogoro-jima, i.e., the Island of Ono- goro, at a short distance from the village of Yagi or Yogi, where the path to it' diverges to the r, from the main road, and soon leads to a dry river-bed where it is necessary to alight from the jin- rikishas.

A very early Japanese tradition pre- served in the Kojiki, tells us that Izanagi and Izanami, when they were about to set to work to produce the Japanese archipelago, ' stood upon the Floating Bridge of Heaven, pushed down the jewelled spear and stirred with it, where- upon, when they had stirred the Inine till it went curdle-curdle, and drew the spear up, the brine that dripped down from the end of the spear was piled up and became an island. This is the Islana of Onogoro.*

Several islets on the coast of Awaji contend for the. honour of being this first-fruit of creation, and this inland claimant may well, by the ignorant country-people, be supposed to have been once itself an island, standing up as it does prominently from the surrounding rice-field flats. In reality there would seem to be little doubt as to its being the funeral mound of some very ancient prince, all memory of whom has passed away.

OnogorO'jima, The Potteries, Nanito Whirlpool. 855

There is a small shrine on it de- dicated to Izanagi and Izanami, and at the southern end of it a stone called the sehirei-ishi or * wagtail stone,' with reference to a detail of the creation legend for which Vol. Ill, Part I, Appendix, pp. 69-70, of the * Transactions of the Asiatic So- ciety * may be consulted. A hole has "been scooped out on the W. side of the mound by women who mix frag- ments of the earth with water, and drink it as a charm to ensure easy delivery. Almost within a stone's throw is a clump of reeds called Ashi-wara- koJcu.

A»hi-tcara-no-kuni, i.e. the Land of Rieed- Plains, is an ancient name for Japan. But the country-people, mistaking ashi^ * a reed,' for aghi, ' the foot,' have invented a story to the effect that this is the spot on which Izanami first set foot when he came down to earth.

After visiting Onogoro-jima, the jinrikishas are rejoined, and the hamlets of Oenami and Koenami passed through. The latter is marked by two or three very fine pine-trees. The pine-trees of the whole island, however, are those which form an avenue lining the main road for a distance of 50 cho just at this part of the journey. In order to enjoy the sight of them, it is worth while turning into the main road as soon as the avenue is seen to the 1.

A further detour to the 1. is needed if it be intended to visit the vill. of Iganoy where, at the establishments of two families called Mimpei and Sampei, the potteries for which Awaji is noted are carried on. Strangers easily gain admittance.

This peculiar ware was first produced between the years 1830 and 184o by one' Kaja Mimpei, a man of considerable pri- vate means, who devoted himself to the ceramic art out of pure enthusiasm. Directing his efforts at first to reproduc- ing the deep green and straw yellow glazes of China, which country he visited in quest of information, he had exhausted flkhnost his entire resources before suc- cess came ; and even then the public was slow to recognise the merits of his ware. Now, howev^, connoisseurs greatly prize

genuine old pieces by Mimpei, some of which combine various colours so as to imitate tortoise-shell, while others have designs incised or in relief, or are skil- fully decorated with gold and silver. At the present-day the quality of Awaji ware has greatly deteriorated, though Sampei has won prizes in Australia and else- where. The pieces are mostly monochro- matic and intended for every-day use.

The next object of interest on. the road is the Tumulus of the unfortunate Emperor Junnin, already mentioned. Being 202 Icem, in length and 72 in breadth, while the whole is surrounded by a moat and covered with a dense grove fuU of singing-birds, this tumulus forms a very prominent object in the scene. It is commonly known as Tenno no Mori, that is, the Em- peror's Grove. That of Junnin's mother, TaemaFujin, lies 8 or 10 cho away from it in a S.W. direction.

After leaving these mounds, a jinrikisha ride of about ^ hr. brings us to the little sea-port town of Fuknra, where it will probably be best to spend the second night. The lion of the place is the violent rush of water through the Narvio Channel, which separates the is- lands of Awaji and Shikoku and connects the Inland Sea with the Pacific Oc^an. It is a truly grand sight, especially at spring-tides, when no junk can attempt the passage ; and it should certainly not be missed. Boats are furnished at a reasonable charge by the pro- prietor of the inn at Fukura ; and the expedition, which takes from 4 to 6 hours, is attended by no danger, passengers being rowed or sailed out under the shelter of the coast to within easy view of the strait, and being able to view the whole panorama either from the boat or from some rocks on which it is usual to land. The best time of aU is said to be the 3rd day of the 3rd moon, old style (some time at the end of March or in the first half of April), when the people of the neighbouring districts on both sides of the channel take a holiday

856

Eoute 49. — The Island of Awaji.

and go out in boats to see the rufih of the briny torrent. The breadth of the channel is estimated at 18 €hd ; bnt some rocks in the middle divide it into two uneqnal parts, called respectively 0-naruto and Ko^naruto, i.e., the Greater and the Ijesser Naruto. The Greater Na- ruto being on the Shikoku side, that side probably affords an even finer sight than is to be obtained from Awaji. Looking from the boat, if on the Awaji side, the province of Awa in the Island of Shikoku is seen in front; to the r. of it stretches the long line of Shozushima, well-known for its granite quarries; while further r., in the extreme distance, are the mountains of Harima on the mainland, the little island of Ejima sticking up in front of them like a cocked hat. The rocks on the Awaji side are tilted up at a considerable angle, and are here and there lined with pine-trees which give them an appearance somewhat resembling that of a painting in the Chinese style. For soft winning beauty, however, neither this nor any part of the W. Coast, excepting towards the North is comparable to the E. Coast of the island. On the way back, the boatman may suggest landing at Kemuri-shima and at Susaki, the two islets in Fukura harbour; but it is hardly worth while to do sb. Kemuri-shima is the high, thickly wooded islet, Susaki the low sandy one. At the summit of the former is an in- significant shrine dedicated to Kwannon.

On leaving Fukura it is besi; to take jinrikisha to Minato, a dis- tance called 2i ri of 50 cho each, but more probably 2^ ordinary ri of 36 cho. The first part of the road leads near the Mound of the Emperor Junnin, but turns off to the 1. skirting the W. side of the Talley. The prettiest part of the

ride — for jinrikishas can be takexr — is along the embankment of a small river flowing some feet above^ the level of the surrounding plain^ over which a fine view is com- manded, with Senzan marked by a clump of trees on its summit and the mountains of Harima in the extreme distance. The village of Minato is remarkable for its salt factories, and for a temple dedicated to Kwannon which resembles a small fortified castle. Hence it is possible to proceed either under the shadow of the pine-trees by the beach (locally famous under the name of Kei n© Matsubara), or else to strike inland. The views are of the coast of Harima, of Shozushima, and of the mountains of Awa behind Shozushima.

The village of Kawakanii is also known as Ten j in, from the name of a temple^ — formerly a very fine one — which it contains. There is fair accommodation at the Tamaya inn, where the third night should be spent if it is too late to push on further. On the way hence to Gunge, it may be worth the while of those who wish to see the largest Shinto temple on the island to turn aside a few cho from the main road to visit the Ichi-no-miya, as it is called, in the vill. of Taga. The Government has spent money on the place, and renovated the build- ings in the style of * Pure Shinto.* The deity worshipped is Izanagi. The third ni^ht will probably best be spent at Gunge. From Gunge onwards, the whole way to Iwaya and Kariya, the road leads by the sea. Insignificant at first, the view gradually gains in beauty. •The path mounts, little promon- tories stretch out into the sea,, pine-trees extend their fantasti- cally contorted shapes toward the waves, to the left lies Shozushima,. and ahead and to the r. the already often-mentioned but ever varying outline of the blue mountains of Harima^ and in the faint distance

Route 50. — The Inland Sea,

857

the snow-capped Tamba range. After the hamlet of Murotsn, the screen of hills forming the back- bone of Awaji itself folds back a little from the strand, giving the green upland glimpses of field and valley which make the E. side of the island so charming.

From Tsiikiie, sailing boats are frequently to be found starting for Akashi on the mainland, the fare being a few sen per head in a boat calculated to hold a dozen or twenty people. In fine weather this is a very pleasant way of concluding the journey, the passage averaging a couple of hours, and the views being delightful. . The whole hori- zon is alive with the white sails of junks going up and down the Inland Sea. Those to whom a sea journey is pleasant only in pro- portion to its shortness will do best to cross to Maiko-no-hama from Matsuo, a hamlet at the N. extre- mity of the island, not far from the lighthouse.

The whole expedition thus in- volves sleeping three nights away from Kobe. It might be shortened and a night saved by taking the steamer direct from Kobe to Su- moto, and by omitting the visit to the Naruto whirlpool; but it would be a great pity to miss the latter, which is a sight unique in Japan.

I

EOUTE 50.

The Inland Sea and the Chief Towns on or near its Shores.

1. OPENER AL information. 2. MEANS of communication : THE

santo railway, steamers. 3. voyage down the inland sea by mail steamer. 4. northern shore : himeji, okayama, fuku- yama, onomichi, mihara, kure, hiroshima, miyajima, iwakuni, yamaguchi, toyoura, shimono- seki. 5. southern shore : ma- t8uyama, mitsu-ga-hama, dogo, imaharu, saijo, tadotsu, maru- game, kompira ( kotohira ), takamatsu.

1. — General Information.

The Inland Sea is the name given to the water space lying between the Main Island on the North and the islands of Shikoku ^ and Kyushu on the South. It com- municates with the open sea by the Naruto passage and Akashi Strait on the East, by the Bungo Channel between Shikoku and Kyushu, and by the Strait of Shimonoseki at the Western end. It is about 240 miles long from Akashi Strait to Shimonoseki, its greatest width opposite the Bungo Channel being about 40 m., while it narrows to 8 m. where the province of Bizen approaches that of Sanuki in longitude 134°. By the Japa- nese it is divided into five open spaces or Nada, which, named from East to West, are as follows: Harima Nada, Bingo Nada, Mi- shima Nada, lyo Nada, and Suwo Nada. Harima Nada is divided from Bingo Nada by an archipelago of islands, rocks, and shoals, through which the passage for ships is nar- rowed in some places to a few hundred yards. Bingo Nada is divided from Mishima Nada, and

858

Route 50, — The Inland Sea.

the latter from lyo Nada in the same manner, and here the channel is even narrower, notably at one place where there is only just room for two ships to pass abreast. The Inland Sea affords the most direct route from Kobe to Naga- saki and Shanghai. For vessels proceeding anywhere to the west- ward it offers a smooth water passage, by which the un- certain weather and stormy seas of the outer passage may be avoided ; and although to mariners the intricacies of the channels may present some disadvantages, for the traveller the smoothness of the water and the continuously varying and picturesque scenery are an unfaiUng source of pleasure and comfort throughout its entire length. The larger islands are mountainous ; and although (differ- ing in this from most parts of Japan) they lack timber, the varying effect of light and shade gives colour to the background. The smaller islands are of every conceivable fantastic shape, some being mere rocks, while others are of considerable height and size. Nearly all are inhabited by a half-farming half-fishing popula- tion. The shores are lined with villages, the hillsides laid out in fields, and the waters studded with trading junks and fishing-boats. Accor£ng to Japanese accounts, the total number of islands is some thousands, though it is a puzzle to know how they were ever counted. Another puzzle to the European visitor, to whom the Inland Sea has become a household word, is the fact that the Japanese them- selves have no corresponding name in common use. The term Seio no uchi (lit. 'within the channels") is a mere invention of" modern chart-makers, intended to translate the English name. Neither have the Japanese poets ever raved oyer this lovely portion of their native country. Only Suma and Akashi at

its eastern end seem to have arrested their attention. All the greater reason why foreigners should do it justice.

2. — Means op Communication.

A line of railway called the San- yo Railway is - in process of con- struction along the northern shore of the Inland Sea, starting from Kobe and passing throngh Himeji, Okayama, Onomichi, Hiro- shima, and Iwakuni, and ending at Shimonoseki. It is intended to connect with the Kyushu Kailway, which starts from Moji on the opposite side of the straits and is ultimately meant to lead to Naga- saki. Up to the present (June, 1891) only the following portion of the Sanyo line has been opened to traffic.

Santo Railway.

Distance from Kobe.

Names

of

Remarks.

Stations.

KOBE.

1 m.

HyOj?o.

4i

Suma

)

8 12 16

Maiko

> See p. 281.

Akash-i

Okubo.

20

Tsuchiyama.

24i

Kakogawa.

29

Amida.

34

HIMEJI.

m

AboshL

u

Tatsuno.

47

Naba.

62

Une.

63^

Mitsuishi.

68

Yoshinaga.

71i

Wake.

79^

Seto.

84i 89

Nagaoka. OKAYAMA.

93i

Niwase.

99

Kurasbiki

f Present (. terminus.

^k^^ Vtf^^b ^^ 1^ A ^^^L^ ^ VVVVVVVV'SV*

Tamasbima

Expected I to be open- f edinAug.

1891.

J

Kamoerawa

Kasaoka

Fukuyama

140

(about)

Matsunaga

ONOMICHI

C Expected

MIHARA

\ tobeopen- Cedinl892.

Sanyo Ilailivay, Steamer Voyage,

359.

Even when the line is completed, it can scarcely become a favourite route; for much of the country through which it passes is bare and uninteresting. The charms of the Inland Sea can be infinitely better appreciated from shipboard. Those whom a general glance at the scenery contents, or to whom first-rate accommodation is a sine ^ud rum, will do best to take their passage from Kobe to Nagasaki in one of the mail steamers. The course usually taken and the chief points passed are described in the following section. Per- sons tolerant of less good accom- modation, and desirous to do the Inland Sea and its shores more thoroughly, have innumerable small coasting steamers at their disposal. It is impossible to give a schedule of these, as not only do the hours of sailing and the ports of call vary according to the cargo offering, but the companies them- selves frequently change. At present (1891) the Kobe Domei Kisen Gwaisha is the largest of these companies, sometimes de- spatching as many as fifteen steamers daily. Among the ports touched at are Takamatsu, Tadotsu, Imaharu, Mitsu-ga-hama, Tomotsu, Onomichi, l^akehara, Ondo, Kure, Hiroshima, Miyajima, Iwakuni, Yanai, Murozu, Tokuyama, Mita- jiri, Shimonoseki, Beppu. Oita, Saganoseki, etc. etc. The s£eamers also call at many places outside the limits of the Inland Sea, such as Uwajima and Kochi in Shikoku ; Hagi, Hamada, Esaki, and Sakai on the Sea of Japan; Hakata and Kagoshima in Kyiishii ; Iki, Tsu- shima, and Fusan. The starting- point of some of these steamers is Osaka, but all call at Kobe. Notices are generally only issued on the day of sailing. Punctuality is rarely observed, and all the arrange- ments are so peculiarly Japanese that only those whoiiave had some experience of the country and its

customs are advised to embark on a lengthy 4x)ur by this means.

3. — Voyage down the Inland Sea BY Japan Mail Steamship Com- pany's Steamer.

In describing the steamer route, our remarks will be confined to the points which are immediate to the track.

Soon after leaving the an- chorage at Kobe, Wada Point is rounded, the ship is steered close along the land for Akashi Strait, and at 1 hourf is close off the light- house on the 1., with the town of Akashi on the r. After passing* through the straits, the track edges a lilt e to the south to clear a dangerous shoal on the r., and crosses the Harima Nada. The ship is now fairly within the In- land Sea, with the large islands of Awaji and Shikoku on the 1. and the first group of lesser islands ahead. (For description of Awaji, see Koute 49; for Shikoku, see Eoutes 51—53.)

At 4 hrs. she enters the first of the intricate passages. The large island on the r. is Shozushima, with a rocky, indented shore and well-cultivated slopes. The course leads within a mile of its southern, extremity, the coast of Shikokn being about 3 m. to the 1. From here the ship turns a little to the north, and soon after the castle town of Takamatsu opens out on the 1. at the head of a deep bay. At 5 hrs. Okishima, with high cliffs descending straight into 15 fathoms of water, is passed within a stone's throw on the left. Oki and Toyoshi- ma on the r. both produce copper ore, and the surface workings may be observed in passing. From Okishi- ma very careful piloting is necessary

t The expressions * at 1 hour,' * at 2 hours,' etc., in the description of this voyage signify, ' when the steamer has been I hour out of Kobe,* ' 2 hours out rf Kobe,' etc., taking 12 knots per hour as the average speed.

860

Boute 50, — The Inland Sea.

to carry the ship safely amongst the numerous shoals and islets lining both sides of the track. At 6 hrs. the lighthouse on the S.E. end of Nabae-shima (called Yoshima on some of the charts) is passed, when the castle towns of Sakaido and Maru-game, will be visible on the L At this point the situation is particularly in- teresting. The ship is completely landlocked, and to the uninitiated there appears to be no way be- tween the rocks and islets with which the sea is studded. The ship swings round point after point, passing villages near enough to watch the occupation of their in- habitants, and threatens to swamp a fishing boat at every turn. Through all these narrows the tides rush with a velocity of from 4 to 6 knots, adding greatly to the difficulty of navigation. At times the vessel can hardly stem the rush of water^^ and heels from side to side as it catches her on either bow.

After Nabae-shima, Ushijima is passed either N. or S., and at 7 hrs. the ship will be abreast of Takami- shima, high, with a clump of pines hiding a temple on the summit. The shore of Shikoku now projects as a long promontory forming the eastern boundary of the . Bingo Nada. In the bight to the left is the trefoil-shaped island of Ashima, whose northern extremity is passed within a stone's throw. The glasses will give a good view of Tadotsu, formerly the residence of a Daimyo, bearing south. If Ushijima is passed on the north side, the shores of Shiyako and Hiroshima will be very close on the right, and a curious rock only 10 ft. above water on the 1. At 7i hrs. the first narrows are cleared, and the ship enters the Bingo Nada.

From this point there are two routes leading through the archi- pelago that separates the Bingo Nada from the Mishima Nada, — one to the north, passing north of |

the islands and having the shore of the mainland of Japan on the right, one to the southward of the islands,, having the shore of Shikoku on the left. The northern passag-e,. which is by far the more interesting of the two, is longer by 8 miles ;. and for 3 hrs. the ship winds in and out through very intricate channels, which at the widest are not niore than 2 miles across, and m some places not a hundred yards. The channel is entered at 8^ hours, passing close to the south of Yoko- shima. Then the track turns to the north between Innoshima, a large island 1,250 feet high on the left, and Mukoshima on the right,, where the channel is just 100 yards across. It opens out a little off Mihara, a castle-town of some im- portance, which is seen on the- right at about 9 hrs. Thence the track turns to the southward, and narrows again. At 10^ hrs. the ship is off Osaki-shima r., with a small rocky islet on the 1., and shortly after the track joins that of the southern route.

If the southern passage is taken, the ship passes between two high islands with bare precipitous sides at 8.i hrs. Next a sms^ group of rocky islets is passed on the 1., and the town of Imaharu on the coast of Shikoku comes in sight ahead. At about 10 hrs. the track turns sharp to the northward, between Oshima on the r. and Shikoku on the 1. These narrows are particu- larly interesting, especially if the tide happens to be running strongly in the opposite direction. At the narrowest part, less than 100 yards wide, the vessel swerves from side to side. * Hard a port ! ' and * Hard a starboard ! ' are the continual cries. If the vessel has not suffi- cient speed, she may be turned right round. Indeed, .one steaming even 10 knots has been known to be obliged to go back and wait for a fair tide, and large swirls have sometimes been observed measur-

Steamer Voyage,

861

ing 6 ft. across and 10 ft. deep. After two or three miles in a northerly direction, the track turns to the >vesxward. Here the ship is again •completely landlocked;^ the moun- tainous islands of Oshima and Omishima on the r., Shikoku on the 1.. and Osaki-shinia ahead •closing the prospect "all around. But after passing the extreme northern point of the province of lyo, with its white outlying rocks, th.e view opens out, and at 11 hrs. the track by the northern passage is j(5ined.

The course now turns southward a^ain along the shore of Shikoku, where the mountain ranges are well-wooded, arid the highest peaks tipped with snow early in December. At 12 hrs. the coast of Shikgku is again approach- ed within 2 miles. A little later the ship threads her way through another narrow passage between Oogoshima on the 1. and Musuki and Nakashima on the right. Just behind Gogoshima lies Mitsu-ga- hama, one of the chief ports on the Inland Sea. Musuki is passed close enough to distinguish the workings from which the material for manufacturing porcelain is obtained. Leaving Gogoshima be- hind, another small island comes in sight with a lighthouse, whose light is visible 20 miles. Then the ship is fairly in the lyo Nada, and at 13 hrs. is nearly up to Yurishima, a curious double island consisting of two hills respectively 400 ft. and 200 ft. high, joined by a narrow sand-bank. This island may be passed on either side. Eight miles beyond it is another steep island, and at 14^ hrs. Yashima, 500 ft. high, is passed very closely. At this point the Bungo Channel opens to the southward, and the track turns a little to the north, passing Uwajima at some distance and Himeshima within a few miles. From here the track lies through the Suwo Nada, midway between Kyu-

shu and the mainland, and, beings unrelieved by smaller islands, pos- sesses no features of special in- terest. At 18 hrs. a red buoy marking the edge of a bank is passed on the right, and the track turns north for Shimonoseki. Here the land draws together on both sides, forming the Straits of Shimo- noseki which yvary from 4 m. to 1 m. in width, and are further narrowed by numerous shoals and sand-banks. At 19 hrs. the ship rounds Isaki on the 1., and threads her way through the shallows past the town of Shimonoseki on the right. The steamer track skirts the flat shore, winds round the south of Hikushima, turns to the north-west, and then due north, towards the island of Eokuren. The whole channel is well-lighted and marked ; but the strong tides which rush through render it even more difficult to navigate safely than any other part of the Inland Sea. Some of the Nippon Yusen Kwaisha's steamers stop off Shimo- noseki for an hour or so to land mails, etc. Not counting this stop- page, the ship will be off Eokuren. and fairly through the Inland Sea at 20 hrs.

As almost all travellers go on to Nagasaki — indeed must do so un- less they have special passports — the description of the route is con- tinued on to that port.

From Eokuren the track turns west, close past Shiroshima ; then gradually south. At 22 hrs. the ship is about 1 m. off Koshime-no- Oshima (WUson*s Island). The coast of Kyushii now extends south- ward on the left — bold, rugged, and deeply indented, with nume- rous harbours, outlying islands, and a background of lofty moun- tains. At 24 hrs. the desolate, rocky islet of Eboshi-jima, with its lighthouse, is close at hand, due south of Tfr^hich, on the shores pf a deep bay, lie the coal-fields o£ Earatsu, and the district where

862

Route 60. — The Inland Sea.

the celebrated Hizen porcelain is manufactured. Eight miles away on the r. is the large island of Iki, with several small rocky islets nearer in the same direction.

From Eboshi-jima the track turns gradually to the south, pass- ing Kagara-shima and Madara- shima. At 28 hrs. the N.E. end of Hirado is close to, and Doshima 1 m. on the left. Hirado is 16 m. long, narrow and hilly, trending N.N.E. and S.S.W. It is se- parated from Kyiishu by a narrow channel of a quarter of a mile, which is in effect narrowed to a few yards by rocks, and is called Spex Straits.

Steamers sometimes take ' this course if the tide and weather are completely favourable ; but generally they keep along the W. shore of Hirado, and pass be- tween it and Ikutsuki-shima by what is known to mariners as the Obree Channel. Nakanoshima, an islet rising straight out of the water off the S. W. end of Hirado, is closely skirted, and the course changed to S.E. at 29^ hrs. Ho-age (Sail Bock) is 1 m. on the left, and the whole group of the Goto Islands (see Route 61) in the distance on the right. Shortly after Ho-age, and on the same side, is seen a beacon painted red and white, to mark a dangerous sun- ken_ ropk. At 30 hrs. the islets of Odate and Kodate are on the right, and Mitoko on the left. Off the south-east of the latter is a small flat islet with pine-trees. A little south again, in the main island of Kyushu, is a remarkable conical hill, with a clump of trees on the summit closely resembling a field officer's cocked hat and plume. Next we pass Matsushima, which is of considerable size and partly covered with pine-trees, whence its name. It is terraced for culti- vation to the very summit, and has a village half-way up its slope. This point passed, the track takes

a sharp turn to the S. and back to S.E. again between Ikesliima , and Haka or Hiki-shima ; and I when the ship is 2 m. due south I of the latter, a good view of a ! remarkable arched rock standing^ i straight up out of the water is obtained. From here Iwoshima is straight ahead, with the lighthouse just visible. To the right of the lighthouse is Takashima, noted for its coal-mines (see Boute 55). At 31 hrs. the ship is midway between Iwoshima and the mainland,, and soon after enters a cluster of islet? off the mouth of Nagasaki harbour. Rounding Pappenberg, the ship turns sharp to the 1. into the harboui*, and at 32 hrs. is generally at anchor.

The chief distances of the run through the Inland Sea from Kobe to Nagasaki, as taken by the Nip- pon Yiisen Kwaisha*s steamers, are as follows : —

KOBE to :— Miles.

Hyogo Point 2

Akashi Straits 12

Nabae-shima 73

Ushijima 75^

Nakashima 143

Yurishima 154

Yashima '. 175

Himeshima 198

Shimonoseki 239

Rokuren , 248

Shiroshima. 257

Koshime-no-Oshima 275

Eboshi-jima 300

Obree Channel 334

Nakanoshima 346

Arched rock 371

Nagasaki 387

4. — Places op Interest on the Northern Shore of the In- land Sea.

Hiineji ( Inns, Inoue-ro, with foreign restt. ; Tatsuman), capi- tal of the province of Harima, is a busy commercial centre, beinfy at the junction of three highways— the San-yodo which runs along the

Toicns on the Northem Shore.

868

northern shore of the Inland Sea "to Shimonoseki ; a road to the provinces of Mimasaka, Hoki, and Xznmo ; and a third up the valley of "tlie Ichikawa, via Ikuno to Toyooka in the province of Taj ima. Himeji's cliief attraction, however, is its ancient castle, which still remains in a state of exceptional preserva- Idon and eminently deserves a visit. Travellers are admitted on presentation of their cards.

The castle, as it stands, is the outcome of the warlike labours of several noble families dming many ages. Founded in tlie 14th centuiy by Akamatsu Enshin, a retainer of the unfortunate Emperor Go- Dai^, it soon fell into the hands of the Afihikaga Shoguns, but was recovered in 1467 by a descendant of the Akamatsu family. In 1677, Ota Nobunaga, then all- powerful, gave the province to Hideyoshi, mrho enlarged the castle and crowned it with thirty turrets. In 1608, Ikeda Teru- masu, to whom it had been meantime granted in iief, raised the number of turrets to fifty which took him nine years to finish. From that time forward Himeji was at peace ; and at the time of the fall of feudalism, belonged to a Dai- myd named Sakai with an income of lfiO,000 koku of rice. The barracks now nsed are of modem construction.

The chief productions of Himeji are cotton and stamped leather goods. At Shirakawa, a short dis- tance from Himeji, are some plum orchards which afi'ord a good place for a picnic.

Okayama (Inn, *Jiyiisha), capital of the prefecture of the same name and of the province oi Bizen^ is situated at some distance from its port; Sanibanshi, no portion of this coast showing more clearly the rapid encroachment of the land on the sea. Okayama may be reached either by jinrikisha or by boat up the river, the latter taking about 3 hrs. The castle formerly belong- ing to the Daimyo Ikeda is still entire, and visitors are admitted on payment of a small fee. The public garden here is in the quaint native style, and is therefore more interesting than most of those now found in sQl Japanese towns of any size. A good deal of cotton is

grown in the surrounding fertile plains.

Fiikuyahia (Inn, Kameyama), capital of the province of Bingo, was the castle-town of a Daimyo called Abe Ise-no-Kami. The only sight of the place is the Shinto temple of Abe Jinja.

OllOiiiiclli (Inns, Hamakichi, Hirao), a bustling, prosperous place stretching along the shore of a long narrow strait, is noted for the manufacture of ornamental mats, which may best be procured at the Byuseki Ewaisha. The shore is lined with godowns. Behind the town rises a lofty hill, near the summit of which stands a Bud- dhist temple, a branch of the greUt shrine of Zenkoji in Shinshiij, The climb is amply rewarded by the view. Beyond the islands studding the Inland Sea, lies due S. Ishi- zuchi-yama, the highest mountain in Shikoku. The Senjo-iwa, a big flat rock at the N. end of the plateau, is a favourite spot for picnics.

Mihara (Inn, by Ayame Heisuke) was the seat of a Daimyo called Asano Kai-no-Eami, whose castle, built by the Taiko Hideyoshi, still remains though fast going to decay. The pretty scenery of this neigh- bourhood is counterbalanced by the unpleasant odours. Indeed aU this coast of the province of Bingo is maladorous, the sandy unfertile nature of the soil necessitating a more than usually copious applica- tion of manure.

Eiire (Inn, Horai), an important station of the Japanese navy, is romantically situated at the base of the hills of the province of Aki. One and a half ri distant is the barren island of Etajima, where stands the Imperial Naval College, an admirably conducted institu- tion for the education of cadets.

Hiroshima (Inn, * Kikkawa-ya ,• there is also a foreign restaurant), capital of the province of Aki and seat of a prefecture, stands in the

864

ItoHte 50. — TJie Inland Sea,

delta of the Otagawa. The ap- proach to Hiroshima by sea is noted for its beauty. From the harbour to the town is a distance of about \\ ri along a fine jinrikisha road. It is a brisk and busy place, the most important to vim in Japan to the west of Kobe, and resembles Osaka in appearance owing to the numerous canals by which it is intersected. It is a centre for dealers in lacquer, bronze, and most other kinds of artistic work. The iJastle stands in a large park at the N. end of the town, just where the rich alluvial plain begins to rise towards the foot-hills of the central mountain spine which here closely approaches the coast. The castle, or what now remains of it, is small and not specially imposing, the turrets at the gates and corners being only two or at the most three storeys in height. It is now the head-quarters of a large garrison. Permission to visit the castle must be obtained from the local authorities; but the Park is open to all and affords a delightful place of recreation to the inhabi- tants.

Before the establishment of the Sh5- gunate in the 12th century, Hiroshima beloni^ed to Kiyomori, the powerful and unscrupulous head of the Taira clan. At the beginning of the 17 th century the fief passed into the hands of the Asano family, who retained it till the mediatisa- tionof the DaimyQs in 1871, The Asanos were often spoken of as the Princes of OeiuhR, Geish i or Aki being the name of the province in which Hiroshima is situated. Their garden is one of the most charming examples of the horticul- tural art in Japan.

The ascent of Futdba-yama, the hiU behind the castle, is easy and the view from the top ex- quisite. In the plain below lies Hiroshima intersected by the five arms of the Otagawa ; to the 1. is the sea; to the r. rises a conical shaped hill called the Aki Fuji-san, and further to the r. Hiji- yama ; in front is the long road running down towards the pine- clad islet in the harbour ; beyond

all spreads the sea, glittering^ amidst rocky islands, chief of wMch is Miyajima with its feathery peaks ; on the dim horizdn are the Suwo hills.

There are two ways of reaching Miyajima from Hiroshima, — either by boat from Kawaguchi, or by jinrikisha along the San-yodo to Kuba, and thence across a narrow stretch of water by ferry-boat. The distance by jinrikisha is 7 ri 30 cho.

Miyajima (Inn * Momiji-ya), also called Itsukushima, is a sacred island, and one of the San-kei, or 'Three Chief Sights' of Japan. The island rises to an elevation of j about 1 ,500 ft., and is very rocky and thickly wooded. Many small but lovely valleys trend down to the sea, and in these, among groves of maple trees, nestle the inns and tea-houses for pilgrims and the dwellings of the fishermen and image-carvers, who, with the priests and innkeepers, make up a popula- tion of some three thousand. The torii in front of the great teihple stands in the sea ; and the temple itself, being partly built out over the sea on piles, appears at high tide to float upon the surface of t^e waters. A more magical scene can scarcely be pictured, especially by moonlight.

The temple is dedicated to three god- desses, daughters of Susa-no-o, ^m the eldest of whom, named Ichiki- shimarHime or Itsukushima-Hime, the alternative name of the island is fabled' to he derived. According to tradition, the first erection of a temple on the present site dates from the reign of the Empress Suiko (A.D. 59.3-628) ; but the whole early histoiy of Miyajima was lost in a threat fire which occurred in 1548, and nothing certain can be learnt from other sources regarding its fortuned before the 12th century. At that time Kiyomori, who held sway over central Japan, repaired it in such style as to gain for it the reputa- tion of the most magnificent structure on the shores of the Inland 8ea. Several Mikados, the Ashikaga ShOguns, and the grcBt Daimy5s of Geisha, Chdsha, and ' other neighbouring provinces were count- ed among the benefactors of the place and worshippers at the goddesses'

Toxcm on live Noi'tJieni SJiore.

865

sliriiie. Here, as elsewhere, the Buddhist priests were compelled to withdraw on the • purificatiou ' of the natioaal Shintd shrines in 1871 ; but fortunately the archi- tectural beauties which they introduced <«kre still preserved. A curious custgm wlileli obtained during the time of their religious sway, was the prohibition of all <leatlis and births on the island. Invalids in ejctremiti and women about to be de- livered were always removed to the main- land. Dogs are still prohibited.

Near the top of the highest hill in the centre of the island is a small shrine containing a sacred fire, which has never been per- mitted to go out since the day "when it was first lighted by Kobb Daishi over 1,000 years ago. Miyajima is a charming summer resort, the air being pure, the temperature never very high, the sea and river bathing excellent, and the walks numerous. Herds of tame deer wander about the island, coming down to the very inns in the village and feeding out of the peoples' hands.

Iwaknni (Innsy Kodama, Kome- hei) is a bustling place, formerly the castle-town of a Daimyo called Kikawa. Where his castle stood, there is now a temple dedicated to Kato Kiyomasa. Iwakuni is noted for its manufacture of silk, paper, cotton, mats, and mosquito-nets. Its great stone bridge called Kintaikyby spanning the Nishiki- .^wa, is famed throughout West^ra Japan. It is built in five semi- circular arches, difficult to cross but picturesque to look at. It is some 150 ft. long, and has lead for cement. Having become shaky, it was closed to traffic in 1891.

Yama^uclli (InUy Fujimura and European restt.), capital of the prefecture of the same name and of the province of Suwo, though several miles inland, calls for mention here as a celebrated town not far from the Inland Sea. It may best be reached by steamer to Mitajiri, whence 4 ri by jin- rikisha vi^ a steep hill called Sabayama, which is partly tunnel-

led. The hot-springs in the neigh- bourhood possess some local fame.

Yamagachi was an important Christian centre daring the latter half of the 16th century, the mission there having been founded by St. Fimncis Xavier himself. More latterly the noble house of Chdsho, which had its seat here, became a very powerful factor in Japanese poUtics. Since the Revolution, the Chosha clan has divided with that of Satsuma the chief direction of public affairs. The peasantry of the Yamaguchi prefecture furnish a large proportion of the emigrants who have been sent to Hawaii during the last few years under the joint protection of the «1apaneseand Hawaiian governments.

Toyoura, soipetimes called Chofvi, {Inn, Yoshida-ya).

Herfe, according to ti-adition, is the burial place of Chftai Tenno, a Mika<lo who is said to have ruled Japan at the end of the 2nd century of our era. His consort, JingO KogS, had a revelation from Heaven one day, while her husband was playing on the lute, that there existed to the westward a fair land, dazzling with gold and silver— the land of Korea— which the Japanese sovereign was divinely com- manded to conquer and add to his domains. But Chaai would not l>elieve the message. * If,* said he, 'one ascend to a high place and look westvrard, no land is to be seen. There is only the gi*eat sea ; your deities are lying deities.* For this his disbelief and disobedience, he was smitten by the gods with sudden sickness and death, and his consort was left to carry out the expedition.

At Toyoura itself there is little to see ; but the. walk of nearly 2 ri to Shimonoseki is beautiful. Across the strait lies Tanoura, whence eighteen foreign men-of-war poured their shot and shell upon the Japanese batt-eries in what is known as the 'Shimonoseki Affair.* The chief battery of the Prince of Choshn was planted on a little sandy spit below the roadway on the 1., at the vill. of Maeda.

The Shimonoseki Affair arose out of an. attempt on the. part of the Prince of ChO- sha, who WHS at that time a semi-inde- pendent ruler, to close the straits leading into the Inland Sea. Two American ships, a French ship, and a Dutch ship were fired on in June and July 1863, and several men killed. Failing to obtain satisfaction from the Shdgun's govern- ment, the representatives of the three powers concerned, together With the Bri- tish representative, who deemed it es- sential for all the Western powers to

866

Boute 50, — The Inland Sea.

make common cause in their dealings with the Japan of those dnys, sent a com- bined fleet to bombard Shimonoseki. This ' "was done on the 5th and 6th September, 1^63. The victors, not content with tliis act of retahation, furthermore clsimed an indemnity of $3,C0O,00O, the last instal- ment of which was paid over by the Mikado's government in 1875. No inci- dent in the deaUngs of the West with Japan has met with so much adverse criticism as this Shimonoseki Affair. Several years later, the United States government, conscience-stricken, repaid their portion of the indemnity— at least they repaid, the principMl but not the interest. The other recipients have not shown this modicum of generosity.

Shimonoseki, als* called Aha- ma-ga-seki or Bakan (Inns, *Fu3ino, *Daikichi-ya, Mammatsu-ya), is a considerable shipping centre, lying 4 m. from the W. entrance of the strait. It consists chiefly of one street, about 2 m. in length. The mail steamers anchor in the bay of Moji on the Kyushu side, where a pier is in process of construction. Moji (Inn, Sankai-ro), the terminus of the Kyushu EaUway, exports a considerable quantity of coal and rice. The chief products of Shimo- noseki are tobacco and cutlery.

Close to here is Dan-no-ura, famous as the scene of the greatest naval battle in Japanese history, when the Taira, hither- to all-powerful, received their death-blow from the rival clan of Minamoto headed by the young hero Yoshitsune. The l^ira forces were encumbered by the pre- sence of numerous women and children,' among whom were the widow and daughter of Kiyomori,— the former a nun, the latter the Kmpress-Dowager with her child, the Emperor Autoku, then only six years old. When his grandmother saw that all was lost, she clasped the young monarch in her arms, and, despite the entreaties of her daughter, leapt into the sea where both were drowned. This was in A.D. 1185.

[For the chief Inland Sea ports on the N.E. coast of Kyiishu, see Eoute 57.J

6. — Places of Interest on the

SOUTHEEN ShO»E.

Matsnynilin (Inn, IQdo-ya), capi- tal of the province of lyo, possess- ing one of the largest castles in Japan, is reached in ^ hr. by rail

from Mitsu-ga-hama, its port (Inn,. Ishizaki). Instead of staying at Matsuyama, which is a dull place, the traveller may find it pleasant to push on I ri past the castle hill to the hot-springs of

Dogo (lnw,*Funa-ya) , a favourite provincial spa, rendered lively by the presence of numerous singing girls. Besides the hot baths, there is a rivulet to bathe in, and on its banks a number of gay tea-houses. Carving in wood and bamboo is the chief industry of this district. _ A Shinto temple dedicated to Okuni-nushi and Su- kiina-bikona stands at the top of a steep flight of stairs leading up the wooded hill which overhangs the' spring. On the height opposite are tea-houses and a public garden. From this there is a fine prospect over the wide and fertile plain of Matsuyama ; to the N. is the Inland Sea, S. the mountains to- wards Uwajima, E. the Kumano- toge on the road to Kochi.

Imnliarii or Inidbari (Inn, Naka- hei), formerly the castle-town of a Daimyo named Matsudaira Suruga- no-Kami, stands at the entrance of one of the narrowest channels in the Inland Sea.

Saijo (Inn, 0-Sakana-ya) is the best point on the Island Sea from which to make the ascent of Ishi- zuchi-yama, the highest mountain in Shikoku.

Tadolsii (Inns, Yoshida-gumi, Hanabishi) and

Manigaiiie (Inn and restt, Naka- mnra-ro) are the largest ports of the province of Sanuki. The chief attraction in their neighbourhood is the ancient shrine of Konipira, or, as it has recently been re- named, Kotohira, the most sacred in all Shikoku, and held in special veneration by sailors. In the ad- jacent vill. there is an excellent inn called Tora-ya. A miniature railway connects these three places, the run from Marugame to Kotohira via Tadotsu taking only f hr. The

Toims on the Southern Shore.

867

temple^ one of the genuine founda- tions of Eobo Daishi, stands on the slope of Zoyama, a hill so-called from its supposed resemblance to an elephant's head, and is ap- proaclied by unusually long flights of steps. Its appearance nowa- days is scarcely equal to its re- putation. The most interesting object is a bronze horse, life-size, to "wliich. rice is offered. Pious pil- grims gather up the scattered grains and eat them uncooked.

This temple of Kompira i» the original .from which countless shrines throughout the Bmpire have bon-owecl the name, and like it, they have all recently been trans- ferred, from Buddhist to Shinto keeping. The popularity of Kompira's many shrines has been in nowise affected by this change ; and the festival which takes place on the 10th day of each month is one of the live- liest in the calendar.

The view from the summit of the

hill is very fine, embracing as it does the best part of the Harima Nada, with the cluster of islands separating that from the Bingo Nada.

Not far from Tadotsu is Byobu- ga-ura, the birthplace of Kobo Daishi.

Kompira is an agreeable excur- sion from Kobe. One may leave by steamer in the evening, and be back in Kobe late the following night, so that the trip is practicable even for those who have only Saturday afternoon and Sunday at their disposal.

Tnkamatsn (Inn and restt., Oimatsu-en), formerly the seat of the Daimyo Matsudaira Sanuki-no- Kami, and capital of the province of Sanuki, is a clean and pleasant place.

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SECTION VI.

THE ISLAND OF SHIKOKU.

(Routes f)i — 52

Route 51, — Froyn Matsuyama to KochL

871

ROUTE 61.

From Matsuyama to Kochi over THE Mountains of Ito and Tosa.

1. OBI^SSAL BEMABKS ON THE ISIjAKD of SHIKOKU. 2. FROM MATSUYAMA TO KOCHI.

1. — GrENEBAL REMARKS.

The chief points of interest on the N. shore of the Island of Shi- koku have already been described in the previous Route. A visit to the N. shore, however, by no means exhausts the capabilities of the island from a tourist's point of view. There are other trips, not- ably that from Kochi to Tokushima vi4 the valley of the Yoshino-gawa, which will well repay his trouble, and w^hich are treated of in the following pages. ■

The word Shi-koku means *four pro- vinces '—a name derived from the fact of the island being divided into the four pro- vinces of Awa to the E., Sanuki to the N.E., lyo to the N.W., and Tosa to the S. As the. author of the Kojiki quaintly phitises it, 'this island has one body and four faces, and each face has a name.' Some of the names used in early times were quaint indeed, the province of lyo being called ' Lovely Princess' {E-hime), Sanuki bein^ 'Prince Good Boiled Rice' (Ji-i/ori-hiko), Awa_ be- ing 'the Princess of Great Food' {0-ge- tm-hime), and Tosa being 'the Brave Good Youth' {Tuke-yori-wake). The last- named province continues to justify its name for bravery and ability. No men have aided more than the Tosa men to bring about the renovation of Japan ; in none are turbulent and democratic senti- ments more prevalent. During the middle ages Shikoku was ruled over by a num- ber of great feudal houses^ of which the most powerful were the Kono, the Hoso- kawa, the Miyoshi, the Chosokabe, and the Hachisuka. The island is now divided into the four prefectures of Tokushima, Bhime, Kochi, and Kagawa, correspond- ing respectively to the old provinces of Awa, lyo, Tosa, and Sanuki.

The climate of Shikoku is excep- tionally mild, especially in the S. portion, which is influenced by the Kuroshio, or Japanese Gulf- Stream. Tosa is the only province in Japan where two crops of rice are produced yearly. The greater part of the island is occupied by mountain ridges of from 3,000 ft. to

4,000 ft. in height, with few salient peaks, the loftiest being Ishi- zuchi-yama in lyo, estimated by Dr. Eiein at 1,400 metres (about 4,666 ft.). * In Sanuki,' says Dr. Rein, * the plain of Takamatsu is fringed towards the sea by several volcanic cones, quite distinct from the schist mountains in the in- terior. They include no important heights, but are a very striking feature in the landscape.' The mountains of Shikoku are well- watered, and crowned by magni- ficent forests. 'In the higher regions/ says the authority jdst quoted, * the eye is delighted by a vigorous growth of deciduous trees, where horse-chestunts and magno- lias are variously intermingled with beeches, oaks, maples, ashes, and alders. But laurel-leaved oaks, camellias, and other evergreen trees venture much nearer to them and higher than in Hondo {the main island of Japan), while still lower camphor-trees and other cinnamon- species, the wild star-anise, Nan- dina, and many other plants which we only find in the main island in a state of cultivation, take part in the composition of the evergreen forests.'

Away from the big towns on the coast, the accommodation in Shi- koku is poor and the roads rough ; often, indeed, they are rendered impassable by floods.

2. — Matsuyama (Dogo) to Kocnr OVER THE Mountains op Iyo AND Tosa.

Itinerary.

MATSUYAMA to:— JJi. Cho. M.

Kumama^hi 7 — 17

Higashigawa 3 27 9i

Mochii 4 4 10

Ikegawa 3 — 7^-

Kawaguchi 3 — 7i

Ino(byboat) ...12 — 29^

KOCHI 1 18 3f

Total 34 13 83f

872

Boute 62. — From Kochi to Tokushima

These distances, from Mochii onwards, are only approximate.

All the first part of this route is rough, lying as it does over a succession of mountain passes; but the views are correspondingly beautiful, especially on the Tosa side where nature assumes a more smiling aspect. In- some of the clefts and gullies on the more rugged lyo side, patches of snow lie all the year round. Poor ac- commodation is to be found at each village. The journey takes from 2^ to 3 days, when no interruptions occur from flooded streams or patlis carried away. From Kawaguchi to Ino, is a delightful 7 hrs, journey by boat down the Miyodo- gawa, which is romantically beauti- ful and has several small rapids. At Ino live the principal paper- dealers of Kochi, and shortly beyond it the old castle of Kochi comes into view.

KOchi {Inn, *Emmei-ken with European restt.), capital of the prefecture of the same name, is a go-ahead place with many public buildings in foreign style. Its most striking feature, the castle, dating from the 16th cen- tury and the abode of the princes of Tosa until the revolution of 1S68, was converted some yeard ago into a public library, and the grounds into a park. Most of the government buildings stand at the foot of the castle hill, as does also a large square-built church erected by the native Christians. Kochi is noted for its coral. The bay of Kochi is a double one ; the inten- tion is to deepen the outer part so as to admit large steamers. The Buddhist temple of Chikunnji, a little over 1 m. from Kochi by jinrikisha, is worth a visit. It stands near the summit of a hill called Godai-san, several hundred steps leading up to the temple gate. At the foot of the same hUl may be seen a Shinto shrine and

monument erected to the memory of the men of Kochi who fell on the loyal side in the Satsuma. rebellion.

The begt walk (2 hrs.) from Kochi is to the top of Washio-yama, a hill 1,500 ft. high affording a beautiful view. On the other side of the Kagami-gawa, is the burial place of the Princes of Tosa.

Three m. to the N.E. of Kochi is the waterfall of Takinwto, ac- cessible by jinrikisha.

Kochi is usually approached, not by this mountain road, but by steamer from Kobe. The steamers are fairly good, and the passage takes 16 hrs.

KOUTE 62. From Kochi to Tokushima down

THE EaPIDS of the YoSHINO- GAWA.

Itinerary,

KOCHI to :— Ri. Cho. Itf.

Ryoseki 3 33 9^

Todeno 3 10 8

Sugimura 2 31 7

Yuiiotani 2 34 7i

Okubo 2 18 6

Kawaguchi 5 18 13^

Ikeda 3 18 8i

[Hashikura 1 — 2i]

Wakimachi 11. 18 28

Yawata 2 18 6

TOKUSHIMA... 7 — 17

Total 46 8 mh

This is probably the most de- lightful trip in Shikoku, the scenery on the Yoshino-gawa, the largest river in the island, being wondrous-

by the Valley of tJie Yoshino-gawa.

873

ly beautiful. It takes 4 days under favourable circumstances, includ- ingr a detour to the monastery of Hasliikara.

Lieaving Kochi, we wend up hill and reach

Jlyiiseki (Inn, by Maeda), a poor liamlet. Crossing the KcJku- bu-g-awa, we come to the Oita-toge. After running some distance along the ridges, the path descends over the N. face of the range, and leads into the basin of the Yoshino- gsLwsb, which is crossed before reach- ing Todeno. Up to this point it may be found convenient to ride. The first night will probably be best spent at

YniKitaini (Inn, Kome-y a), whence onwards, for 2 days* journey, the scenery of the river becomes entrancing, the stream running often through wild gorges, at other times breaking into rapids or falling in cascades, while above and around there is a grand luxuriance of vegetation. At Yunotani it- self there is a deep valley to the 1., beyond which rises a huge moun- tain mass, washed by streams utili- sed for irrigation in a manner won- derful to behold. These streams are carried along the face of the upper slopes, whence they percolate on to the terraces below. From Yuno- tani onwards, the journey is per- formed partly by boat and partly on foot. The state of the river must help to determine the travel- ler's movements, stages which can be done by boat when the river is at its normal height, having to be performed on foot when it is too full or not full enough. In flood- time the water has been known to rise 30 ft. above its ordinary level. The path is a series of ascents and descents of the most rugged character, sometimes by the side of the river, sometimes hundreds of feet above it. After leaving

Okubo, the most picturesque portion of the whole valley is reached. There are rapids and

cascades innumerable. At the Sakaigawa, the traveller leaves the province of Tosa and passes into that of Awa. The second night's halt may be made, according to circumstances of time and weather, at Kuroishi, where there are several tidy inns, or at

Ksnva&rnehi ( Inn, Kano-ya ). Should time permit, one might even go as far as Ikedn, where the river is crossed, and push on to

Hashiknra. The monastery for which this placfe is celebrated stands on a steep ,hill. The inns are situated half-way up, and here pilgrims usually stay. Those curious. to partake of Buddhist vegetarian fare in splendid recep- tion rooms, should endeavour to obtain letters of introduction to the abbot. Without these, visitors will only be shown over the build- ings. The temple belongs to the Shingon sect.

[From Hashikura a path I. diverges to Kawanoe, situated on a big bight of the Inland Sea, called the Bingo Nada, 1 day's journey.]

After Ikeda the country becomes comparatively, open, but the cur- rent of the river is still swift and strong. It is possible to reach Tokushima from Ikeda in 1 day by boat. When the roads are in good condition, jinrikishas can be taken. By the time

Wakiiiiachi (Inn, Tango-ya) is reached, the valley has become quite broad. The current begins to grow sluggish at

Yawata, from which place, if not before, it is advisable to exchange the boat for jinrikishas. There is an apparently endless succession of villages before arriving at the journey's end.

Tokushima {Inns, *Hiragame-ro, Shima-gen, with European restau- rant), the largest and finest town in Shikoku and capital of the prefecture of the same name, is

874

Route 52. — From Kochi to Tokushima,

situated near the N.E. comer of that island in the province of Awa, not far from the celebrated whirl- pool of Namto in the channel dividing Shikoku from Awaji, de- scribed in Boute 49. Its harbour, Furokawa, is 1 r£ off. The grounds of the castle of the former Daimyo Hachisuka, are now converted into a public garden. The castle itself has passed into the hands of the military department, but is virtually dismantled. The chief temples are those of Kompira, Inabe, and Ka- suga. Before visiting these, it is well to climb the heights behind them, to get a bird's eye view of the town, of the valley of the Yoshi- no-gawa, and of the.island of Awaji. The coast of Kishu is visible in the hazy distance.

The women of Tokushima are noted for their beauty. Indeed, the whole province of Awa partakes in this characteristic, and the dress even of the peasant girls is as neat and tasteful as their features are attractive.

The hill called Semi-yama is the spot from which Yoshitsune re- viewed his forces before the terrific encounter at Yashima.

An enjoyable little trip can be made from Tokushima to NaJca- isu-mine, some 7^ ri to the south- ward. If will be found most con- venient to pass the night at the vill. of Tomioka (InUy Tosa-ya), 6 ri 6 cho from Tokushima. There are two roads thither — one follow- ing the coast, the other, which is less picturesque, lying back a little among the hills. The coast road is rendered striking by its rocky cliffs and long rows of grace- ful pine-trees. From Tomioka, a foot-path leads for about 1 ri through the rice-fields, and cross- ing Kaji-ga-mine, reaches the base of Nakatsu-mine ; whence it is a stiffish climb of 10 cho to the small temple on the summit. The view here spread out before the beholder is deemed the prettiest in the pro-

vince. Especially delightful is the prospect southwards of the island- strewn gulf which, under the names of Kotajima-minato and Tachibana-ura, curves inland for 5 or 6 m., while around it rise wooded heights, with rice-land and hamlets in the hollows, and salt-fields below.

Another excursion which may be made from Tokushima is to the Whirlpool of "Namto via Okazajd, 4 ri 21 cho, whence boat is taken to the island of Ogeyama along whose sandy beach the whirlpool rushes. It is only possible to cross over to Awaji during the 15 min. of the change from ebb to flood-tide. For further details of this cele- brated part of the coast, see p. 355.

Route 53, — Outline Trips in Shikokii.

875

KOUTE 53.

OUTI^INE OF OTHER TeIPS IN SHIKOKU.f

1. :FR03(I IMAHABU to SAIJO, BE88HI, ANI> THE TOSHINO-GAWA VALLEY. :2. FSOM MATSUYAMA TO NAGA- HAMA^ OZU, AND UWAJIMA ON THE WEST COAST.

1 . An alternative way of reaching the valley of the Yoshino-gawa is to land at Imaharu on the Inland jSea, and then proceed to Saijo (InUy O-Sakana-ya) on the same coast, whence the ascent of Ishizuchi- yama, the highest mountain in Shi- koku, can be made. From SaijO to the celebi*ated copper mines of Besshi, the road is fine and affords ■delightful views.

These mines, situated in the mountains •of the S.W. part of the district of Uma- «5ri in the province of lyo, have been worked for over flOO years, and for the last two centuries have belonged to the Sumitomo family, whose present repre- sentative, Mr. Sumitomo Kichizaemon, ift said to be the second richest man in Japan«

Dr. Naumann proposes proceeding thence as follows: — *From Besshi down the Besshigawa valley to Kawaguchij fine scenery in the lower part, where the rocky gorge at Aikawa-bashi, not far from the confluence with the Yoshino-gawa, deserves special attention. At Kawaguchi the Yoshino-gawa is joined. Proceed up the valley of this river as far as Okubo. This part is one of the most beautiful in the whole of Shikoku. Then to Oedamura-Sugeoi over the moun- tains of Akaboshi, to Koyae-daira- mura (from here Tsurugi-yama •could be visited), Eawai-toge, Ju-

t These suggestions are mostly taken from a pamphlet by Dr. E. Naumann.

ryo-mura, Yorii, Menoki-toge, Mi- tani-mura, Yokose (from which place Tokushima is within easy reach), cross over to Nakagori by the Tsurugoe, then up the beauti- ful valley of the Nakagawa as far as Kaikawa. From here the old highway to Kochi can be followed, or a rough route across the moun- tains to the southern coast may bo taken. The latter is as follows, — climb Sugino-toge, follow the ridge down again to the vaUey to Kai- nose. Here the traveller could proceed by boat to reach the coast. From Kainose up the valley W.S.W., where the river has to be crossed a good many times (beauti- ful forests of cryptomeria). to Ogo- ya, up the valley side and again along the ridge. Banjo (old watch- house), down to Yamoso-mura, then to Tanno from where the coast can be followed to Kochi. From Kai- kawa to Tanno the road is very rough and mountainous, but the traveller will enjoy it very much.

2. A pleasant trip on the W. coast of the island is from Matsn- yama by steamer to Nagahama; thence up J;he valley of the Hiji- kawa to Ozu (Inn, Abura-ya), a neat town situated in a plain sur- rounded by high hills and owning an ancient castle ; thence to

Uwi^iuia {Inn, Imora).

This charming, old-fashioned place was the seat of a branch of the Date family, re- markable alike for its talents and its longe- vity. The grandfather of the present Marquis, who died in 18{K), attained to the extraordinary age of 102.

The chief productions of Uwa- jima are paper and iwashi (sar- dines). An ancient custom forbids the catching of whales on this part of the coast, because they are supposed to perform the useful service of dnving the sardines towards the land. So high is the esteem in which the sardines of Uwajima are held, that in feudal days a special boat laden with them

876

Route 63. — Outline Trips in Shikoku.

was sent yearly a* an offering to the Shogun at Yedo.

The favourite excursion from ITwajima is to the waterfall of Nametoko, about 2 ri distant. Uwa- jima communicates with Kochi both along the coast and over the mountains, as well as by sea. There is also steam communica- tion with Kobe, touching at several ports on the way.

Tourists who arrive at Kobe from Nagasaki or Shanghai, with

the intention of proceeding by- rail to Yokohama, but who are compelled to wait for their For- eign . Office passports from To- kyo, may find that two or three days can be agreeably spent in a cruise through the Awaji Straits and along the northern coast of Shikoku. Steam-launches may oc- casionally be hired for this purpose. There are several tiny artificial harbours on these shores, with atti-active backgrounds. Good an- chorage can Jilways be found.

r"

;

SECTION VII.

THE ISLAND OF KYUSHU

Routes f)4 — 61.

I '

/S^^

BoiUe 54, — Nagasaki and Neighbourhood,

879

ROUTE 54.

IN'agasaki and Neighboxtbhood.

1. na'gasaki. 2. walks in the

neighboxtbhood.

Hotels. . — (Foreign) Belle Vue Hlotel, Cook's Hotel, both in the ^Foreign Settlement.

Japanese Inns. — Ueno-ya, in DAanzai-machi; Midori-ya, in Ima- machi.

Bestaurants. — (European style) Fnku-ya, in Koshima ; Seiyo-tei, in ^ishi Hamano-machi ; Gwaikokn- t;ei, in Hokaura-machi.

Restaurants. — (Japanese style) !Fuji-tei, in Ima-machi j Tamagawa, in Kaxniya-machi ; Koyo-tei, in £^ami Chikugo-machi.

Consulates. — On the Bund. Passports for the hot-springs of TJreshino and Takeo, Arita and Imari, Sasebo, the new arsenal, and back to Nagasaki vid Sonogi, Isahaya, and the hot-springs of Onsen (Uzen) in the Shimabara peninsula, can be obtained through the Consulates. Eegarding gene- ral passports for the interior of the country, see p. 3.

CustomrHouse and Post and Tele- graph Office. — On the Bund.

Clubs. — The Nagasaki Club, Bowl- ing'Club:

Banking Agencies. — Hongkong and Shanghai Bank ( Messrs Browne & Co. ) ; New Oriental Bank ( Messrs Holme, Binger & Co.); Chartered Mercantile Bank.

Churches. — English Church, Me- thodist Episcopal Church, Re- formed Church of America, Boman Catholic Church.

Newspaper. — * Rising Sun and Nagasaki Express,' published weekly.

Public Hall.— In the Foreign Settlement, x

TAeaires. ^Maizuru-za, in Shin- dftiku-machi ; Enoki-za, in Eno- H za-machi.

Steam Communication. — Japan MaU Steamship Co. (Nippon Yu-

sen^ Kwaisha); Peninsular and Oriental (Holme, Einger and Co.) ; Norddeutscher Lloyd (H. Iwersen).

Local Steam Communication. — From Nagasaki to Osaka vi& the Inland Sea, calling at Hakata, Shimonoseki, Tadotsu, and Kobe, daily. To Misumi and Hyakkwan for Kumamoto, also daily. To. Sasebo every two or three days To the Goto Islands, Hirado, Iki» and Tsushima, weekly. To Kago- shima twice weekly. Shipping Agents : Tsuru-ya, Maru-ya, in Ye- do-machi.

SUk Stores. — Fujise, Shimase, in FTigashi-Hamano-machi.

Porcelain Stores. — Koransha, in Deshima.

Tortoise-Shell Stores. — Ezaki, in Uono-machi; Sakata, in Kago- machi.

Embroidery. — Imamura,' in Funa- daikurmaclii; Hakusui, in Kago- machi.

Photographers. — ^Ueno, in Shin- daiku-machi; Kiyokawa, in Moto- Furukawa-machi ; Setsu, in Shin- machi.

Photograph Shop. — Tamemasa, in Funadaiku-machi.

Curio Stores. — ^Mess and Co., in the Foreign Settlement; Hondaya, Kyoritsusha, Sato, in Kago-machi ; Toraya, in Megasaki-machi ; Ni- shida, in Funa-daiku-machi. _ Bazaars. — In Moto-shikkui-machi, Ohato, and Higai^-Hamano-machi.

History and Topography. — Nagasaki de- rives its name from Nagasaki Kotard, to ■whom this district, then called Fuka«-no- uTft, was given as a. fief by Yoritomoat the end of the 12th centur^r. It was a place of no importance until the 16th century, when the native Christians migrated thither in considerable numbers, and it became one of the chief sites of the Portuguese trade. After the final ex- pulsion of the Portuguese and Spaniards in 1637, only the Dutch and Chinese were permitted to carry on a limited trade here, until the opening of the country to foreign intercourse in 1839.

The native town stretches for about two miles to the N. of the Settlement, in which direction is the road leading to Shimono- seki. From the N.W. jquarter a road leads to Tokitsu on the Omura Gulf. A

880

Bovie 54, — Nagasaki and NeigJiboiirhood,

l^ood rood has also been constructed to Mogi on the Shimabara Gulf, the only other outlets by land being rough paths over the hills. On the 8.W. side of the native town is Deshima, the site of the old Dutch settlement.

The present Foreign Settlement occupies the flat land on the B. side of the harbour, and has a water frontage of from 700 yds. to 800 yds. On the picturesque slopes of the hills behind the Settlement, are the private residences of most of the merchants. On the opposite side of the harbour are the factory works of Akanoura and the dock of Tategami, which, together with the patent slip at Kosuge on the E. side of the harbour, belong to the Mitsubishi Company.

The harbour, one of the prettiest in the world, is a narrow inlet about 3 m. in length, indented with numerous bays and surrounded by wooded hills. It is tho- roughly sheltered, and affords anchorage for ships of all classes. The principal approach is from the N.W., between a number of islands, those conspicuous to the S. being IwDshima with its light- house, Okishima apparently joined to Iwoshima but separated from it by a narrow boat passage; K5yaki-jima and Kage-no-shima, on which last also stands a lighthouse. On the N. side of the chan- nel are Kami-no-shima, the site of an old grn battery, and Takaboko (Pappenberg), from the S.W. cliffs of which, less than three centuries ago, thousands of native Christians are said to have been precipi- tated because they refused to trample on the cross. This island and Nezumi-shima to the N.E. are favourite resorts for pic- nics; The entrance of the harbour does not exceed ^ m. in width.

Nagasaki is noted for a kind of jelly (kin-gyokur-to) made from sea- weed, and for the dried roe of the salmon-trout (Jcarasumi) .

Temples. — The^rincipal Shinto temple is that of 0-Suwa, known to foreigners as the ' Bronze Horse Temple/ from a votive offering of a bronze horse which stands in the courtyard. From the garden attach- ed to this temple a fine view of the city is obtained ; a large house has here been built for the enter- tainment of distinguished visitors. The Buddhist temples of Nagasaki possess little interest.

Festivals. — Nagasaki has always been noted for the mac^ificence of of its religious festivals, three of which are stUl observed with all the pomp of former days.

1. The 8uwa no Matsuri (cojamon- ly called Kunichi), held on. the 7th., 8th, and 9th October, but liable to alteration, is the grandest of all the Nagasaki festivals. The old Dutch writers never tired of describing this festival, and their accormt-s agree in almost every detail -with the spectacle as witnessed at the present day.

* This fete,* write our authors, * is of some days ' duration, and begins with. solemn rites in the temple dedicated to Suwa. Flags and lanterns are exhibited, on all parts of the temple, and all the worshippers wear goi^eous ceremonial robes. The public rites consist in placing^ the great image of the god, together with the treasure of the temple, in a magnifi- cently gilded and lacquered shrine, which. is then borne in procession through the streets, closely followed by the chief priests and a body of picked horsemen, the latter being deputed by the Governor to honour the ceremony. Shrine and treasure are finally deposited in a straw^ hut, especially bmlt for the (Xicasion. Here they remain on view for some time, the hut being open in front, though par- tially enclosed by painted screens; and with this conclude the prescribed rehgions rites. Sports, games of skill, and thea- trical representations follow ; great plat- forms are erected in different parts of the town, and on these actors and singers of renown go through all manner of perfor- mances. The expense of all this is de- frayed each year by different streets and wards, and there is the keenest spirit of rivalry among them, both with regard to the costliness and splendour of the de- corations and processions. Each district contributing towards the festival sends forth a train of its own, and evexy street contributes a certain number of perfor- mers.'— Fischer, who was present on one of these occasions, gives the following account of what he saw : * First goes an immense, shapeless mass of linen, cairied on a bamboo by a stalwart man, of whom nothing can be seen but his feet. ' Mighty is the load he bears, for the cloth is full twelve ells in length and embroidered throughout, forming one huge canopy. Then come banners and embroidered ornaments, covered with skilful needle- work representing some renowned man or celebrated woman, a hill covered with snow, the instruments of variqus trades, or scenes from ancient Japanese histoiy. Next follow musicians playing upon drums, cymbals, and flutes, strangely attired, and accompanied by a number of servHuts. These are led or headed by the ottona, the chief municipal officer. Then appears a long train of children, repra> senting some expedition of one of their

Festivals, Walks in the Neighbourhood,

881

iJcado9, or clemi-gods. T\ii8 part of the sliow is most admirable ; clad and armed like the warriors of former times the leaders march gravely along, followed by •fixe representatives of an Imperial Court, xufile and female, dit^playing the greatest pomp and luxury, and surpassing every conception of dainty beauty. Each of tibese trains is attended by a number of palanquins, which are intended for any of the children who may become fatigued. .Ajfter these come companies of actors ; every now and then high benches of equal size are ranged along the road, and on "tliese the actors perform with great spirit cuad emphatic gesticulations. Their ac- talons are accompanied by the music of flutes and gyamsen [ahamigen'}. When this is over, a crowd or miscellaneous musi- cians, palanquins, servantB, and the rela- "tives of the children follow, and this doses one train.'

Dancing by the singing girls of ^he city takes place early on the morning of the 7th in front of the temple of Suwa, and intending spectators arrive there as early as 4 o'clock in the morning in order to secure places from which to "witness the* sight.

2. The Bon Matsuri, or * Festival of the Dead,' called by foreigners the ' Feast of Lanterns/ is celebrated from the 13th to the 16th of August, when the graveyards are lit up with lanterns, and the rela- tives of the dead resort thither to perform their devotions. The hills around the city being covered with graveyards, the spectacle is most impressive. About midnight on the third night, a number of good- sized straw boats, furnished with lighted lanterns and laden with offerings of various kinds — cuciun- bers, egg-plants, etc. — are launched from Ohato near the head of the harbour, and the spirits of the de- parted are supposed to return therein to their abode. But as danger to shipping is feared by the authorities from the hundreds of lights floating over the harliour, men are placed in the water to break up the boats as soon as they are launched, which somewhat mars the effect nowadays.

3. The Gion no Matsuri is a fair which lasts for three days. It takes

place on the 14th, 15th, and 16th of the 6th moon, old calendar.

2. — Walks in the Neighbour-.

HOOD.

1. The Dockyard and Engine Works. Permission to visit the above, one of the largest engineer- ing and ship-building establish- ments in the Far East, can.be ob- tained from the manager of the works at Akanoipa. The Engine Works are situated about half-way up the harbour, directly opposite the Foreign Settlement. They were originally built about forty years ^^o by the Prince of Hizen under the superintendence of Dutch en- gineers, and were afterwards handed over to the Shogun's Go- vernment in exchange for a steam- er. After the revolution of 1868 the works passed into the hands of the Imperial Government, from whom they were purchased by the Mitsubishi Company in June, 1884. They have been greatly increased, and the works now cover about 6i acres of ground. The Tategami Dock is situated in a deep recess about i m. below the Engine Works.

2» The Ceniotery, where lie buried the soldiers who died in Nagasaki from wounds received in the Forniosan Expedition of 1874 and in the Satsunia Rebellion. A service called Shokonsha is held yearly in their honour. The ceme- teiT^ is situated on a hill some 10 min. walk from the Settlement, and commands a very pretty view of the town and harbour.

3. Eompira-yamn. This conical , hill, rising beyond the N. end of the native town, is a favourite resort of Japanese holiday-makers, and is easily reached by a path to the 1. of the Suwa temple in a little over 1 hr. Here every year, on the 10th day of the 3rd moon, old style, is held a highly pictur-

882

Route 54. — Nagasaki and Neighbourhood.

esque contest between kite-fliers, young and old, whose object is to cut down each other's kites with strings coated over with ground glass.

4. InasA-yaina (1,130 ft.) is com- monly known as Eussian hill, be- cause the village of Inasa at the foot is used as a sanitarium for the sick landed from E>ussian men- of-war. It is worth ascending on account of the fine view seaward which the sumijiit affords. The ascent is made either from the viU. of Inasa, or by a path just behind the Engine Works at Akanoura; but both paths are somewhat diffi- cult to find without a guide.

6. YeniiS Hill, ^ hr. from the Settlement, is so called by the foreign residents from the Ameri- can astronomers having select- ed it in 1874 for observing the Transit of Venus. It rises close behind the S. end. of the Settle- ment, and is, for the most part, a long bald ridge commanding a glo- rious view of the town and harbour and of the surrounding mountains. Of distant mountains seen from the top, the most prominent are : E., Onsen-ga-take on the pro- montory of Shimabara ; and N.E., Taradake in Hizen. The nearer summits include Inasa-yama and the rocky peak of Iwaya-dake on the opposite side of the harbour ; next Kompira-yama, rising beyond the town, to whose r. in succession are seen the triple summits of Shichimen-zan (commonly known as *the Champion'); Hoka-zan, re- cognised by its round top; and Hiko-san, distinguished by a fringe of trees crowning its summit and extending partly down its W. slope. Towards the S. is the graceful sharp cone of Saruta-yama, to whose r. extends a long range, the highest point of which is Kawara-yam£^ Looking seawards, the eye sweeps over a succession of beautiful islets, while the horizon

to the W. is bounded by the blu& outline of the Groto group. To the N. . lies the Bay of Omura, and E. a glimpse is caught of the Shima- bara Gulf. By following the path along the ridge, other paths will be met with leading down the valleys which trend towards the ^wn.

6. Himi-toge, an enjoyable walk there and back of about 3 lirs., is recommended to visitors pressed for time. The return may be made by the old path which descends steeply from the Nagasaki end of the cutting through the summit of the pass, and lower down leads by the water-works.

7. Mogi (water communication with places heyoTid). A pretty ajid pleasant walk there and back of 3 hrs. Jinrikishas are practicable the whole way (2 ri). The view of the Shimabara GuH from a point j list below the deep cutting through the top of the hiU on the Mogi side, is very fine. Mogi itself is not visible until a turn in the road to the 1., at the bottom of the valley,, reveals its position about i m. distant. It is a dirty village but should be traversed, and the walk continued round the bay to the r. to a small temple on a projecting cliff, with fine sea view. The tea- house kept by Blatsutaro has a pro- menade overlooking the bay, and provides European food.

Small steamers leave Mogi daily in summer for Obama (3^ hrs.), Kyodomari, and Kuchinotsu on the Shimabara peninsula, and for Tomioka in the island of Amakusa. The sailings of these steamers are not to depended on; but enquiry at Messrs. Powers' store on the Bund, Nagasaki, will prevent dis- appointment. When these steamers are not available for Kuchinotsu, either passenger junks or ordinary open boats can always be obtained. The distance across is 13 ri, and with a fair strong wind the passage can be made in 8 hrs. Boats can

Sartita-yama, ToJdtsu, Itvaya-dake,

883

also be taken to Obama ; but the distance is some 3 ri longer than fcom Aba, the usual starting-point, (see p. 385). A pleasant way of returning from Mogi to Nagasaki, is to go by boat to Aba; time about 2 hrs., but depending on the "wrind ; thence on foot or by jinriki- sha over the Himi-toge. There is Sklso a path from Mogi to Aba, 'which follows the deeply indented coast line and passes through seve- ral hamlets. It is picturesque, but long and fatiguing.

8. Sariita-ynma (1,418 ft.), gene- rally known to the foreign resi- dents as ' the Virgin,' is a promi- nent sharp cone near the 1. of the high ridge which traverses the peninsula about 4 m. to the S. of the town. of Nagasaki. The walk there and back takes about 5 hrs. and is the prettiest in the neighbourhood. The exquisite view from the peak is somewhat similar to that ob- tained from Venus Hill, but on a more extended scale. The walk may be varied by a descent on the aide facing the vill. of Mogi and returning by the Mogi road.

9. Urakaini and Tokitsn (water communication with places beyond). This is a pleasant walk or ride of 8 ri along the only level road in the immediate vicinity of Naga- saki. The road skirts the shore at the head of the harbour, leading up a pretty valley and past Ura- kami, a village which, like most of the hamlets in this valley, is in- habited by Eoman Catholics. In- deed, Christianity seoms to have never been entirely eradicated here, notwithstanding the ruthless persecution of the faith in the first half of the I7th century. At the foot of a deep cutting in the hill before Tokitsu is reached, stands 1. an overhanging rock called Sahor-kumkarashi-iwat ' the rock where the mackerel were allowed to rot.'

It is related that a fisherman on his way from Tokitsu with mackerel {taba) to sell, was startled at the sight of this rock, which looked as if it were just on the point of toppling over. So intense was- his terror that he forgot everything else. The rock did not come down, but the fish went bad, whence the name.

The little village of

Tokitsu (Inn, Arita-ya) stands on the shore of _a picturesque inlet of the Gulf of Omura ; but except for the beauty of the surrounding scenery, and for the pleasant ex- cursions which may be made by boat along the shores of the Gulf, it offers no attractions. In return- ing, the road via the hamlet of Nagayo, also on the shores of the Gulf, may be t«aken without adding much to the journey*. Those de- siring refreshment or rest will find the tea-house at the XJrakami baths the best place for the pur- pose. A stone pillar indicating the way, will be seen on the r. of the road about 2 m. from Tokitsu.

Small steamers leave Tokitsu twice a ^ay, about 9 a.m. and 2 P.M. for Omura 5 H, and for Sonogi 8 ri, also going on to Kawatana, 3 ri further. A second line runs at the same hours to Haiki, 7 ri. Between Haiki and Kawatana, 3^- ri, is a fairly good jinrikisha road, and a round trip can be made if desired. The views on the Omura Gulf are very beautiful in fine weather. Saseho, the new arsenal, is 3 ri distant from Haiki.

10. 1 waya-dake. This walk is the same as the previous one as far as the stone torii which stands on the 1. of the road just beyond the ham- let of Nameshi. The path under the torii leads through the fi&lds and thence up the hill — a walk of l.i m. — to a small shrine. From this point, a steep zigzag path ascends through a thick wood to the summit. No view is to be had until the top is reached, where the whole of the sea face of the hUl is found to be clear

:d84

Boute 55. — Excursions front Xagasuki.

of wood. Excellent views are then obtained of the Omura Gulf and of the sea towards Takashima. Time, Shrs.

11. HolLJi-zaii. This hill is reached by following the old road to the Himi-toge as far as the water-works, and then taking the path up the valley to the 1. until the shoulder of the hill is gained. Thence the path r. leads to the top. Time, 2k hrs. The view from the summit is one of the best in the neighbourhood. The iniins of the beacon form a slight shelter. Here the first fire used to be lighted, to speed on to Yedo news of the arrival of foreign ships. North is the Omura gulf; E. the Shima- bara guK and Fugen-dake; S. the open sea studded with islands. Descending to the shoulder, take the path to the r. along the ridge, thence through a wood into a valley opening on to the Sakura- Baba road close to the new and extensive Normal School buildings.

12. Kwaniion-no-taki {Cascade). This waterfall forms one of the

•chief points of interest in the neighbourhood of Nagasaki. The usual route is over the Himi-t5ge to the viU. of Tagami, whence the road turns I. towards the hills, and is practicable for jinrikishas the whole way. The distance from Nagasaki is about 4 H. Near the entrance to the temple grounds at the foot of the cascade, a large oak- tree almost overarches the way. The courtyard is lined with stone images of Kwannon and Fudo. The grounds are tastefully laid out with trees and shrubs, and the steep slopes on the bank of the stream flowing from the fall are built up in terraces faced with stone, and planted with flowering cherry-trees, camellias, azaleas, and maples, which, when in season, give a brilliant colouring to the scenery. The temple is dedi- ' cated to Kwannon, and is said to

I date from the year 1730. Plassing liehind the priest's house, we reach.

. the cascade, a pretty fall shoot- ing over a rugged cliff and tumbling into a deep pool about

. 50 ft. below. This picturesque spot is a favourite resort of picnic parties. Upon payment of a small fee, the priest will pro- vide accommodation in the room, f acinjr the f aU.

ROUTE 55.

EXCUBSIONS FROM NaGASAXI.

1. THE TAKASHIMA, NAEA-NO-SHIXA, AND HASHIMA COAL MINES. 2. NAGASAKI TO SASEBO. 3. FROM! NAGASAKI TO SHIMAJBABA viA OB4- MA AND ONSEN (uNZEN) ; WALKS NEAR ONSEN ; ASCENT OP FUGEN- DAKE. 4. NAGASAKI TO SHIM ABABA Vid ISAHATA AND AITSU. 5. THB

baths of ureshino and takso.

1. — The Takashima Coal Minbs.

The island of Takashima, in which are situated the Takashima coal mines, lies about 8 m. S.W. of the entrance to the harbour of Nagasaki, and Naka-no-shima and Hashima about 1 m. f urt > er. Taia- shima is only some 250 acres in extent.

Until 300 years ago it was totally unin- hjtbited. TJie llrst people to occupy the island were a guard of five otticere, placed there by the Prince of Hiz^n to preveot foreigners from landing. The mine was first worked by the Japanese 150 years ago. In 1867, the Prini-e of Uizen, in. partnership with Messrs. Glover and Co. of NagftSHki, largely developed the resources ot the mine by the introduction of machiueiy and ICuropean methods of rainiiiK. 'Jhe workings have since then been extended, until the Takashima ooliiery has probahly become the largest iu Asia. it has been in the iiands of the enterpris- ing Mitsubishi Ck}mpany since April 1881.

TaJcashima Coal Mines. Saseho. Onsen.

885

All the mines extend for a g■re^t distance under the sea ; and from recent discoveiies, it is believed that a larpe field of unt( moil- ed coal still exists, aui tlint the Takashimn mine as well as those on the "djacent is- lands of Naka-no-shinia and Hashima will ■vield larsre supplies for many years to come. The mine Hffords employment to over 8,000 persons, 'i'lie total yield of Trtkashima and Nakano-shima for 1888 whs 445,<iOO tnn.s, and for all the coal-mines in Japan during the same period, 2,07(),743 tons.

The highest point of the island commands an extensive view for a distance of 80 m. seaward, compri- sing the whole group of the Goto Islands. A tug-boat belonging to the colliery company runs between l^agasaki and Takashima twice daily, and permission for a passage can be obtained by applying at the Company's office in Nagasaki.

2. — Fbom Nagasaki to Sasebo.

A small steamer leaves Naga- saki twice a week for Sasebo at about 9 A.M. Just outside the entrance of the harbour, the island of Pappenberg is on the right. The course then lies N.W. almost "within a stone's throw of the shore. A large rock hollowed out by the waves into a, natural arch of colos- sal proportions appears on the 1. about 1 hr. later, as does also the island of Ikeshima. At about noon the steamer enters a small bight where the Seto Straits, about 30 yds. wide and very picturesque, come in view and suddenly reveal another way out. After clearing the straits, the course still lies along the shore, till the steamer enters a large bay in which the harbour of Sasebo, similar in size and appearance to that of Naga- saki, is situated. At the upper end of the harbour are the brick build- ings of the Naval Station, the most imposing structures of their kind in Kyushii. The steamer arrives at Sasebo {inn, Harima-ya) at about 6 p.m. To make the round journey returning vi^ Haiki and Tokitsu, for which 2 days are sufficient, see p. 383.

3. — From Nagasaki to Shimabara via Obama and Onsen (Unzen). Ascent op Fugen-dake.

This excursion can easily be made in 3 days. It would be possible, provided an early start were made from Nagasaki, and the wind were fair for the passage to Obama, to reach Shimabara in 1 day; but travellers are recom- mended to pass the first night at the hot-springs of Onsen. A steamer plies in summer between Mogi and Obama (see p. 382),. but it is not to be relied on. It leaves about noon. Sailing boats are usually taken from Aba for the passage to Obama.

[The best way of reaching Onsen, should the weather be too rough for sailing, is by road via Aitsu and Obama. The route as far as Aitsu is the same as that given on p. 389. The roads are fairly good throughout.

The ascent is easy but steady from Aitsu to a high ridge overlooking Chijiwa Bay ; from this a broad road degcends to the shore, commanding views of exquisite scenery. The roots of the fir-trees at Chijiwa, standing out above the sand, present an extraordinary ap- pearance. In returning to Nagasaki by road, the traveller should by all -means descend from Onsen to Chijiwa, 3 ri, for the sake of the magnificent views on the way.]

Itinerary.

NA G AS AKI to :— Ri. Cho. M.

Himi 2 18 6

Aba 10 f

Obama (by boat) 7 — 17

Onsen 3 — 7^

SHIMABAEA 5 — 12

Total 17 28 43^

386

Route 55. — Excursions from XagasaJd.

JmnMshas with two men should be taken to Aba. Time may be saved bj sending ahead to have a boat ready. The charge for a private boat, when three boat- men are taken, is about f2; time %\ith fair wind, about 3 hrs. The remainder of the journey from Obama is best x>erformed on foot, though iMgos or packhorses can be hired for the ascent to Onsen if required, and kagos can be taken from the latter place to Shimabara.

At Himi the road turns r., and 10 cho further reaches

Aba (Inn, Tsuta-ya), a poor fish- ing village, but prettily situated. OjTposite lies the island of Maki- shima, which encloses between it and the mainland a small harbour where junks can anchor. The sail across to Obama affords charming views. In front the various peaks of Onsen-ga-take are seen to advanta<i:e, and are named in the following order from 1. to r. : — Azuma-dake ; Fugen-dake, the highest point of the mountain ; Taka-dake and Takai-iwa, the shai-p rocky summit rising behind a nearer ridge to the r. Looking back, there is a fine view of the Naga- saki peninsula, whose bold steep coast is indented with bays and inlets. To the 1. the bay is studded with wooded islets extending from a reef off the eastern point of Makishima; and in the distant background rises Tara-dake, the highest mountain in the province of Hizen.

Obama (Inns, Tsuta-ya, Abe-ya), much frequented on account of its mineral waters, which un- doubtedly possess great efficacy in rheumatic complaints, con- sists entirely of inns. The vill. when viewed from the sea has a picturesque aspect, the houses being built on a high stone embankment and on rocky ledges almost over- hanging the water. Unfortunately, little or no attempt is made by the inhabitants to cater for European

' requirements. The baths are de- tached from the inns* and are mostly open tanks on the rocky beach close to the spring from which they are supplied. The temperature of the water at its source is 160^ F., but in the batibs it is lowered to 106= P.

The road to Onsen first mounts ' a long fiight-of steps leading ap to a Shinto shrine. At the hamlet <^ Sasa^no-toji, 1 ri from Obama^ the road turns sharp to the L, and for & short distance is steep and ron^h. It then emerges on to an open - slope commanding ' a splendid ' view towards the Nagasaki penin- ■ sula. The path now winds to the r. between two slopes of the ridge, and soon the conspicuous I cone of Takai-iwa comes in sight. ; We next reach, 1^ ri from Sasa- . no-toji, the small plain of Fudsn j no-hara where Fugen-dake and I Myoken-dake, two of the highest I peaks, come into view. Further on, { a path r. branches off to the sul- phur springs of KojigTOkn (18 cho), where a hotel in foreign style, called Shimoda-ya, has_been bmlt. Soon the solfataras of Ojigoku are seen to the r. before reaching the vill. of

Onsen (Inns, Yorozu-ya, Ueda), locally called Unzen, 2,550 ft. above the sea, noted for its sulphur springs, beautiful scenery, and bracing air. The Japanese come here to complete their recovery after passing through a course of the Obama baths, and the place has of late years also become a favourite resort of the foreign resi- dents of the treaty ports in China. The baths are public, but buckets of water can be easily brought to the inns, as the springs are close by. Here stands the Buddhist temple of Ichijd-in, which was destroyed by fire during the Chris- tian rebellion of 1637, and rebuilt on a smaller scale. It is a poor, dilapidated building. The- sol- fatfuras are the chief objects of in-

Onsen. Walks in the Vicinity,

387

"t^rest at Onsen, but should not be "visited without a pfuide, as the f oot^ ixig is in many places dangerous. The springs extend in one seething a*iid boiling mass for nearly a mile along a hollow at the foot of fir- <5lad hills, and the volume of steam ■which rises from them forms a striking contrast to the dark evergreen of the background. Their activity varies at different times, 'water which under ordinary circum- stances is thrown up from 2 ft. to 5 ft., being often projected to double that height. Fanciful names have been given to most of the geysers, the finest being called Dai-Kyokwan, the Loud Wailing" That which bears the name of Chutd Jigoku, or Middle Class Hell, has a tem- perature of 204° F. Several of the springs cannot be approached on account of the very insecure footing.

Walks from Onsen (YorozuL-ya) .

1. Turn to the r., pass thQ sul- phur works, keep to the r., ascend to the farm which supplies milk, take the path about 30 yds. to the r. as you face the farm, and keep to this steadily till the shoulder of the hill is reached ; cross the shoulder and keep on to the r. From the top of the ridge the views are splendid in every direction. Be suye to visit each of the three jutting crags or peaks looking towards the gulf. Return the same way, or keepii^ to ther. descend by the steep sneep track to the road from Chijiwa to Onsen ; keep to the r. back to Onsen. 2,h'rs.

2. Take the road to the 1. as you face the torn, pass the vill. with water-wheel, turn 1., cross three streams, turn up the mountain on the 1. Deep gorge and fine view ; 2 hrs. (This is No. 1 reversed, but it is difficult to find the way up the mountain).

3. Itoad over the hill to E. of bath, i.e. road to the 1. as you face the torii, but turning off to the r. just

outside the village of Onsen. Keep on over rising ground with woods on each side untU the grassy plain at the foot of Onsen-ga-take opens out. Take the centre path straight for the mountain, leaving the lake on the r. Ascend to the ridge on the r. taking care to keep well to the r. as soon as the paths begin to ascend. The ascent is rather steep to the r. shoulder of the mountain but the view amply repays one by its splendour ; 3 hrs. This is the first part of the ascent of Fugen-dake.

4. Take the path to Kojigoku, pass tlirough the village and turn to the 1. under the new Foreign Hotel, follow the path t6 the grassy ridge, here turn to the r., and keep the path right up to the summit of Takai-iwa, where there is shelter under a natural arch of granite, with a magnificent view over the Ku.chinotsu end of the peninsula. This is considered by many to be the finest view in the district. An easy walk for ladies and a capital spot for picnics. 3 hrs.

5. The same as No. 3 as far as the lake, where turn off to the 1. and descend the first road thi'ough a finely wooded ravine with a stream flowing through it. Keep steadily .on till the water- wheel vill. is reached, then turn 1. and ascend to Onsen. The reverse of this would be to start like No. 2 as far as the water-wheel, and there turn off r. and ascend the ravine, keeping round to the r. tor the return, li hr.

6. Same as » above to the lake, which is passed by the right-hand path. Keep along the path till it bends off to the r., thence ascend to the ridge in front, turn to the r. and return by Kojigoku. 2 hrs.

7. Same as No. 1 to the shoulder of the hill. From this go to the 1.; keep on the ridge, descending until the Obama road is reached on the

888

Houte 55, — Excursions from Nagasaki.

Fuda-no-hara moor ; turn to the 1., and return either by the Obama road or by Kojigoku. 2^ hrs.

The road from Onsen to Shima- bara ascends steeply to a grassy hollow between the peaks of On- sen-ga-take 1., and Taka-dake r. In this hollow lies the Kara-ike, a shallow tarn.

[The path up FiigOH-dnke here turns off to the 1. A guide is necessary. The summit con- sists of three peaks, .which are visited in the following order : — Fugen-dake, Myoken-dake,. and Onseu-ga-take, the latter being the one seen first after leaving Onsen. The ascent for i hr. is a moderate climb to the shoulder on the r. of On- sen-ga-take. Here the two other peaks come in view. The path then descends through thick brushwood, and on reach- ing the opposite side of the mountain, commences again to ascend. In 1 hr. from the shoulder of Onsen-ga-take, the summit of Fugen-dake (4,800 ft. above the level of the sea) is reached. Here stands a perpendicular rock 50 ft. high, on whose N. side, being shelter- ed from the rays of the sun, icicles are sometimes seen as early as the month of Novem- ber. This peak commands a very extensive view, stretching from the provinces of Higo and Sa- tsuma on the one hand, to the distant group of the Goto Is- lands on the other, and includ- ing, in addition to the lofty summits of Aso-san and Kirishi- ma-yama, innumerable bays and islands, which together form a panorama of in- describable beauty. The second peak, Myoken-dake, is reach- ed in 2 hrs. from Fugen-dake. The way lies partly through brushwood, and passes a small pond in which gold-fish are

said to exist. Turning the shoulder of Fugen-dake, and passing some caves for storing- ice, the path descends into a deep ravine, probably the ori- ginal crater of the extinct volcano, the bottom of whicli is a mass of huge boulders inter- spersed with trees. Wide cre- vices ahd slippery rocks here demand the tourist's care and attention. The ascent to Mj'oken-dake ftom this ravine is very steep. The summit, like that of Fugen-dake, com- mands a magnificent view. The third peak, Onsen-ga-take, is reached without difficulty, and the descent of the moun- tain is easy and rapid. The total distance from the hot- springs of Onsen to the sum- mit of Fugen-dake is called 3 ri. Pilgrims usually com- plete the ascent of the various peaks and the return to Onsen in 8 hrs. The ascent and descent could, however, be made by a good pedestrian in 5 hrs.]

After passing Kara-ike, the road descends through a fine rocky valley, the conspicuous summit of Takai-iwa being seen ahead. It then' climbs a steep slope, and brings in view the Gulf of Shima- bara and several mountains in the province of Higo. Below lies a fertile plain, stretching away to- wards the S*. part of the penin- sula; a portion of the island of Amakusa is also seen towards the S. The descent to the plain is, for the greater portion of the way, down a grassy slope amidst boulders and rocks. The latter part of the descent is precipitous, through a forest of pines, firs, and camphor- trees. On reaching the hamlet of Minokawa (2 ri from Onsen), the road becomes less steep, and 10 cho^ further the way is fairly level. Beyond Nakakoba there is a grand

Shimabara, Isahaya*

889

Tieiv of the magnificent precipices of Maeyama (also called Kueyama), liBin^ like gigantic walls between tli& town of Shimabara and the main summits of the volcano. It is stated, that some time in the last century this side of Maeyama was carried away by an enormous land- slip and thrown forward into the sea, burying at the same time a part of the town of Shimabara, and forming the innumerable islets which, now dad with pine-trees, give such a picturesque appearance to the bay. Shimabara, formerly the castle- town of a Daimyd, consists of two large divisions Imown respectively as Minaio or *the Port/ (Inn, Chiku- go-ya) and Joka or * the Town ' (Inn, Hashimoto-y a) . The traveller should be careful to state to which division he wishes to go ; for the two to- I gether are continuous for upwards of 1 ri in length.

At Shimabara occurred one of the most trag^ic incidents connected with the perse- ention of the Christians in the 17th century. Here the faithful assembled fur defence in lar^ numbers fmm various parts of the country, and occupied the site of the old castle, portions of whoue walls still exist, and around which mo^«t of the fighting took place. Wlien the Christians were over- powered, multitudes of both sexes and all ages are said to have been pushed from the cliffs into the st>a. Memorial stones m irk the graves of the officers of the besieging force, the largest monument, about 8 ft. high, being dedicated to the memory of Ita- hura. ^higemasa, Conimander-iu-C'hief of the 8hdgun'8 army, who lost his life in the attack on the stronghold.

4. — From Nagasaki to Shimabara rrid Isahaya and Aitsu.

Itinerary.

NAGASAKI to :— Bi.

Himi 2

Tagami

Kikitsu 2

ISAHAYA 1

Sangen-jaya 3

Aitsu

Kojiro (Nishimura) 3 Shimabara Joka ... 4 Shimabara Minato.. 1

Cho.

M.

18

6

30

2ir

18

6

31

4^

5

n

15

1

28

9i

8 lOi - 2i

Total 20 9 49i

This route is practicable through- out for jinrikishas, and two men are needed only when the whole journey is to be done in one day.

Leaving Nagasaki by the suburb of Sakura Baba, the road crosses the Himigawa and the ascent of the Himi-toge at once begins. The road, diverging to the 1. is the old route over the pass. In the narrow gully, also to the 1. of the main road are situated the new water- works for the town of Nagasaki. Near the top of the pass, the road enters a deep cutting through solid rocks, and on the other side winds d6wn a series of terraces built up along the steep face of the hill. Many travellers walk over the old road to the bottom, instead of fol- lowing the tortuous windings of the jinrikisha road. After passing through the cutting, there is an excellent view of portions of the Gulf of Shimabara, the high sum- mit of Taradake in Hizen, the volcano of Onsen-ga-take, and in closer proximity the bay of Aba, on whose N. shore rises a conspicuous mountain called Yagami Fugen- dake. On reaching the hamlet of Jffimi, which lies at the foot of the pass, the road skirts the head of the bay of Aba for a short dis- tance, and soon reaches the vill. of Tagami, a little beyond which the road to Kwannon-no-taki, diverges h (see p. 384). At the Fuji-no- Ozaka, a hill about 1 ri further on, the scenery becomes pretty, and the bay of Omura soon comes into view. Beyond the hamlets of Kuyama and Kaitsu the road divides, the r. branch descending to Isahaya, the 1. leading to the town of Omura (3^ ri). The latter is the main road to Saga, the capital of the prefecture, and on to the Straits of Shimonoseki.

Isidiaya (Inn, Maru-ya) is a small town lining both banks ^ of the Hommyo-gawa, a river which flows into the Gulf of Shimabara. Sailing boats to Wakatsu on the

890

Bovte 55. — Eiteumons from Nagasaki.

^

Cliikago-gawa can be procured here^ uie passage taking about 12 hrs. A Shinto temple stands in prettily laid out gardens on the r. bank of the river, and the pictur- esque little tea-houses in the grounds are much frequented by holiday-makers. The river is span- ned by a fine old stone bridge.

On leaving Isahaya, the road crosses a plain to the vill. of Aka- saki (1^ ri), and then skirts the foot 01 low hills as far as the ham- let of Moriyama, whence it ascends a hill commanding a fine view of the plain that stretches away to the base of Taradake. From the tea-house known as Sangen-jaya, we soon reach the straggling vill. of Aitsu (poor accommodation).

[An alternative way of reaching Aitsu is by boat from Aba, the passage usually taking from 3 to 3^ hrs. From the landing- place, there is a path across the isthmus to the vill., 8 chd, where jinrikishas can be en- gaged to Shimabara Minato. From Aitsu a good road branches off 1., and leads round the peninsula of Shimabara vi& Obama and Kuchinotsu, the itinerary being as follows :

AITSU to :— Bi. Chd. M.

Chijiwa 19 3

Obama 2 — 5

Kita Gushiyama 118 3| Minami Gushi- yama 1 18 3^

Katsusa 1 — 2^

KUCHINOTSU 1 — 2i

Minami Arima. 1 — 2^

Kita Arima .... 20 H

NishiArie 1 10 3

Dozaki 1 15 3^

Fukae 1 30 4^

Nakakoba 18 3

SHIMABAEA

MINATO .... 1 18 3i

Total 17 2 41i

Kuchinotsu is a 'special port'

for the shipment of coal to foreign countries. Nearly the whole output of the Miike mines is brought down to Ku- chinotsu in ju^s, and tlience exported to Shanghai, Hong- kong, etc.]

The road between Aitsu and Shimabara for the most part lies near the shore of the gulf, and commands from different points magnificent views of the Shima- bara mountains. The view across the gulf i& also very beautifuL

6. — To THE Baths op Ubeshxwo

AND TaKEO, V%& ToKITSU, OvTTRA, AND SONOGI.

. From Nagasaki it is an easy day's journey to Takeo. Travellers should start in time to catch the 9 A.M. boat from Tokitsu (see p. 383). There is a second boat daily abont 1 P.M., by which Ureshino can be comfortably reached the same day. From Tokitsu the steamer runs along the coast to ,

Omiira, formerly a Daimyo's town, of neat and clean appearance. The trip by water is very pleasant. At

Sonogi (Inn, *Matsumori-ya ; in- ferior accommodation at one on the wharf), jinrikishas can be hired to Ureshino, 3 H. The road lies along a gently rising valley, the slopes of which are coal-measures inclined at moderate angles ; this formation continues as far as Ta- keo. Half a mile from the latter place a white porphyritic rock forms a mountain called Shiro- yama. The scenery is pretty throughout. The hot-springs of

Ureshiuo (Inns, *Shio-ya, Wata- ya) are situated on the bank of the river which flows past the town. The public baths are enclosed in a long wooden shed, and are divided into three classes. The first-class bath has three large handsome blue and white porcelain receptacles for the water^ which is cooled before

Route 56. — Nbrth'Westem Kyushu.

891

admission into the baths, and can be let in or out at pleasure.

Takeo (Innst Shunkei-ya, Shoko- in-ya) lies in a valley 3 ri from Ureshino. The baths are supplied from a single hot-spring. The "first-class bath can be specially engaged, for periods of 1 hr. at a moderate figure. The famous pot- teries of Arita are only about 6 m. ■distant from Takeo.

Proceeding to Arita, one can return to Nagasaki via Haiki, whence steamer to Tokitsu.

1. The Ktushu Eailwat.

ROUTE 56.

Theough North- Western Kyu- shu BY Bail and Koad.

•

1. THE KYUSHIJ RAILWAY. DAZAIFU. KUEUME TO NAKATSU BY THE YABAKE VALLEY. 2. FROM KO- KURA TO DAZAIFU Vld HIK0-8AN. 3. FROM FUKUOKA TO NAGASAKI Vid IMARI AND ARITA. 4. FROM FUKUOKA TO SAGA OVER THE MOUNTAINS. 5. FROM TOSU TO SAGA, AND TO NAGASAKI BY THE MAIN ROAD.

The Kyushu Eailway will shortly be completed to Kumamoto, 16 m. farther than the present terminus. The landscape is very fine the whole way from Moji to Onga- gawa, after which it is mostly flat. A considerable portion of the line skirts the sea-shore as far as Hakata, where it strikes inland.

5 _ •

Names

Pi a:«

Ofi

Remarks.

s

Stations.

MOJI.

3m.

Dairi.

7i

KOKURA.

m

Kurosaki.

171

Orio.

20i ! Ongagawa.

27}

Akama.

(

34

Fukuma.

36i

Koga.

42

KaBhii

-45*

Hakozaki.

47

HAKATA.

5H

Zasshono-knma.

56

Futsukaicbi.

m

Harada.

CProposed

6i\

Tasliiro .,

3 Jet, for j Arita and V. Sasebo.

65} 69}

Tosu

Road to Saga,

KURUME.

77} i Halnotsuka.

81}

Yabesawa.

_

Watase

("Proposed C station.

90}

Omnta.

98

Nagasu.

104

TAKASE.

Kokura (Inn, Nakamura-ya) is a long, straggling, and busy town, formerly the seat of a Daimyo, and now occupied by a garrison. Steam- boats ply daily between here and Shimonoseki. . Kurosaki (inn, Sakura-ya). Near Orio, the railway crosses a bridge spanning another line connecting Nogata with Wakamatsu, a dis- tance of about 27 m.

INogata (Inn, *Iwada-ya) is & long viU. on i;he old highway to Nagasaki. The Mitsubishi Company are making it the centre of their extensive coal mining enterprise. The coal region extends southward for nearly 80 m., the best coal being found between this place and lizuka (Inn, Wata-ya).]

Near Ongagawa a good view is obtained of the mountains on the

892

Eoute 56. — North-Western Kyushu,

1. of the line — Kurosaki-yama and Fukuchi-yama — ^the highest point of the line (300 ft. above sea-level) being reached between this station and

Akama (Inn, Yone-ya). Soon we come in view of the stretch of sea called the Genkai Nada. Just after leaving

Kashii, the hot miheral springs of Arayu are observed 1. On leaving

Hakozaki, one perceives the Shinto temple of Hachiman men- tioned below.

Hakata (Inns, Kaiyo-kwan, Sa- tsnma-ya, in Hashiguchi-machi ; Toshimi - ya in Naj ima - machi, across the bridge on the Fukuoka side) is the port of Fukuoka, from which it is separated by the Naka- gawa. The Public Garden is a broad belt of fir-trees laid out in walks and drives. It contains a me- morial erected to Hojo Tokimune, the then de facto ruler of Japan, who in the 13th century met and conquered at this spot Koppitsu Setsu, a famous Mongolian gene- ral who had seized Tsushima and invaded Kyushu. Hakata is cele- brated for its silk manufactures, called Hakata~ori, and possesses several fine shops. On the Naka- shima, or * Central Island/ formed by the two rivers which flow from Dazaifu, is the Kyoshiu-kwan or Public Hall, and the Club in foreign style.

About I m. from the Public Garden is the celebrated Shinto temple known as Hakozaki Hachi- mangu, standing in tastefully laid out grounds with a fine avenue of fir-trees extending down to the sea-shore. From this an Excursion should be made to Najinia, about 8^ m. by road, crossing a ferry over an -arm of the sea close to the railway bridge, and turning 1. by the shore to a slight elevation on which stands a very old tem- ple dedicated to Benzaiten. The spot commands a fine view of the bay and islands. Below, on

the shore, are sections of a petri- fied fir-tree, said by tradition to bo the mast of the junk in which the Empress Jingo Kogo was wrecked when returning from Korea.

On the way back to the town, we pass the dilapidated Buddhist tem- ple of Sofukvji. Here are the handsome tombs of the former Princes of Chikuzen, the fixst of whom was Kuroda Nagamasa (d. 1623), an influential Christian con- vert, commemorated in the letters of the Jesuit missionaries under the name of Simon Condera.

The railway station is at the E. end of the town. From the port, which has a pier over 400 ft. in length, steamers to Nagasaki and the south, and to Shimonoseki and Osaka ply almost daily. All information can be obtained at Hayashi Kiyosuke*s office and inn on the wharf.

On the other side of the river is

Fukuoka (Inns, *Fukushima- ya, Kaiyo-kwan), formerly the re- sidence of the Kuroda family. Princes of Chikuzen, and now capital of a prefecture and a flourishing town possessing many modern buildings, includmg the Normal School, the Post and Telegraph Offices, the Methodist School for girls, and the Epis- copal, Methodist, and Independent Churches. The Daimyo-machi and Tenjin-machi, extending from the castle to the Prefecture (Kencho), are exceptionally fine streets. The castle is occupied by a garrison of 2,000 men. The Public Garden (Nishi Kden) deserves a visit for the sake of the views it affords. At the base seawards is a small shrine, and at low tide a pleasant walk brings one back to the town round the promontory of the park.

Atago-san should be ascended, for which i hr. will suffice. Jinriki- shas can be sent on to the western descent, whence continuing the ex- cursion we reach 2 ri further Mei-

Fuhuoka. Dazaifu, The Yahake Valley,

893

no-Kama. From here a detour should be xaade to the r. to a shrine of BisTuLmionf situated at the top of a lofty, well- wooded hill, which juts out into the sea and affords a xjharining view. Time 1^ hr. The road, runs alternately by the sea and through fir plantations, anil is extremely picturesque.

There are two waterfalls in the neiglibourhood. One, called Kwa- ran-takiy is distant about 4^^ ri, of which 4 ri to the vill. of Ishigama ■can be done in jinrikisha. The fall is about 100 ft. high, and is at the source of the Moromi-gawa. The other, called Baizan no tord-daki on Ikaznchi-yama, is 3 ri off by jinri- kisha and 1^ ri on foot.

Futsukaichi is the station for Dazaifu (Inn, Izumi-ya), one of the most celebrated places in the south.

In early times Dazaifu was the seat of the Governor-Generalship of the Island of Kyushu , — a post which, though apparently honourable, was often used as a form of €xile for offenders of high rank. The most celebrated of these exiled governors ¥«i8 Sugawara-no-Michizane, who is wor- shipped under the name of Tenjin (see p. 32).

At 'Dazaifu is a temple dedicated to Tenjin which is approached through a bronze torii built in 1 782, and then over a high-arched bridge spanning a large pond. The court- yard contains a number of cows, lions, and owls in bronze and stone. Upon application to the priests, various relics may be examined, such as swords by famous makers, a bronze statuette of Confucius, and some MSS.

About I m. from Dazaifu stands the Buddhist temple of Kwanzeonj% founded in the 7th century. It is dedicated to Kwannon, whose colossal image, flanked by two others, occupies the principal build- ing.' A number of interesting relics are here shown.

About li m. from the station on the side opposite to Dazaifu, is the hot-spring and sulphur bath of

Musashirmura, Above this will be seen .a prominent peak crowned by a single fir-tree, under which is a small shrine. This is Temjpai- zan, where Michizane, looking to- wards Kyoto, worshipped the Em- peror by whom he had been exiled. The view from this point is exten- sive. The sights of Dazaifu may easily be done in 2 hrs., so that it will be sufficient to stop between trains.

Harada [Inn, Hizen-ya).

Tosii being the nearest station, to the prefectural town of Saga^ travellers bound in that direction will here leave the train. For Saga see p. 896,

Kiiriiitie (Inns, Fukudo-ya, Ya- mada-ya) stands on the 1. bank o£ the Chikugo-gawa, and was formerly the seat of a Daimyo named Arima Gemba-no-Kami. A pleasant walk of 1 ^ ri through the suburbs leads the traveller to Kora-san, a Shinto temple of some note, whose grounds are well-kept and command a fine view of the plain below.

[From Kurume to Nakatsu bt

THE Yabake Valley.

Itinerary.

KURUME to :— Ri. Cho. M,

Yoshii 6 18 15}

Hida in Bungo... 6 — 14}

Miyazono 6 8 15}

Hidain Buzen ... 3 34 9} NAKATSU 3 12 8}

Total 26 — 63i

Jinrikishas all the way. Time 2 days, stopping the first night at Hida in Bungo (Inny Yamada-ya) . The Yabake valley, celebrated for its beauty, begins at Miyazono. For Nakatsu see p. 398.]

Near, Omntn, the works of the Miike coal mines are indicated by the smoke rising fron them. Be- fore reaching

Takase (inn, Kita-ya), the line

894

Boute 66, — North'WesUifi Kyushu.

approaches the sea, and good views are obtained of Onsen-ga-take on the Shimabara peninsula. There is to be a station between Takase and Kmnamoto at a place called

Ueki. To the 1., just before reach- ing this, the line passes below a small eminence called Tawara-zaka, crowned by a monument to the memory of the soldiers who fell during the fierce fighting that raged for eighteen days in this neighbourhood during the Satsuma rebellion. The monument is a monolith of white marble brought from Yatsushiro in 1878.

2, — Fbom Kokuba to Dazaifu vid

HiKO-SAN.

Itinerary.

KOKUEAto:— Ri.Cho, M.

Yobuno 4 JO 10^

Kawara 2 2 5^

Soida 3 11 8

Hiko-san 4 23 lU

• Koishiwara 3 — 7i

Amagi 6 — 14^

DAZAIFU 4 23 lU

Total 27 33 68

There is fair accommodation at the chief villages passed through. Jinrikishas are only practicable over some portions of the route. The road traverses a cultivated plain between picturesque hills to Tohuno, at the foot of a ridge called Eyoga-no-hana. It then crosses the Kibi-toge, commanding a fine View of Kawara Ichi-no-take. From Saitojo the road ascends again, winding round this peak and round Kawara Ni-no-takfe, then descending to the village of Kawara. Hence by jinrikisha to Soida, up the valley of a tributary of the Masuda-gawa, which takes its rise on Hiko-san, and after changing its name several times, as is the manner of Japanese rivers, falls into the sea between Kokura and Hakata. From Soida

the road ascends the r. bank of the river to Masuda, and th^i follows its left bank to Ochiai, where the river is crossed and the 1. branch followed up a steep ravine. After 1^^ hr. walk from Masuda, that portion of the Hiko-san range known as Sho- jiku-take comes in view. The path now becomes rocky and ascends to Oiwake, whence we have a fine view of Kambuku-yama, a conical wooded peak, and of Shojiku-take, a long grass-grown ridge. A flight of broad, rough steps leads to a bronze torii at the entrance of the road to Gongen Sama. This is a steep ascent of 42 cho by the most direct way. The vill. of

Hiko-Sflii has many good walks in its vicinity, affording splendid views of Kosho-san, Umami-yama, Kambuku, and other mountains.

Frbm Hiko-san the traveller re- traces his steps to Oiwake, where the road divides, the 1. branch leading towards the province of Chikuzen. As far as Shioi (baths and inns), on the bank of the Shioi-gawa, the road is level. It then crosses the Kaif uku-togp and several other hills before reaching^ the boundary between Buzen and Chikuzen, 8 cho on this side of

Koishiwnra, noted for earthen- ware of a dark colour, made in this n^hbourhood by the de- scendants of Korean potteife, who are said to have migrated hither after the^ conquest of their native country 'by Hidpyoshi. Descend- ing the valley of the Daikon- gawa, the road traverses a vast plain of arable land to Jizogaya, before arriving at the large town of

Amagi (Inn, Mizuire-ya). Hence one may either proceed by jinriki- sha the whole way to Dazaifu, or turn aside at Yamae (Inns, Take-ya„ Kokura-ya), whence to Futsukaichi on the railway is a distance of 2 ri.

For Dazaif II (Inn, Izumi-ya) see the previous page.

From Fukuoka to Arita and to Suga,

895

3. — From Pukxtoka to Nagasaki

viA Imabi and Abita.

Itinerary.

FUKUOKA to :— Bi. Cho. M,

Meinohama 2 3 5

Imajuku 1 17 3f

Maebaru 1 31 4^

fhika)B 2 7 5i

Mamaeaki 4 9 10^

Tokusue 4 — 9f

IMAKI w. 4 — 9f

Arita 3 — 7i

Kawatana 3 2 7i

Tokitsu (by water) 7 — 17

NAGASAKI 2 32 7

Total 35 29 87^

Tliis trip is picturesque through- out, and practicable for jinrikishas.

The road leaves Fukuoka by the Toricho-bashi, spanning the stream which supplies the castle moat and mere with sea-water. The road on to Hamasaki is wide and level, with beautiful sea views.

JIiielMU*a (Inn, Koji-ya).

[After passing through this yillage, a jinrikisha road turns off sharp to the r. leading round Ko-Fujiyama through pretty scenery to the shore, and }>assing several villages to Xeiya, about 2^ n. Here there is a singular cavern, which can only be entered from the sea * by boats obtainable at the vill. The rocks are piled up in columns and strangely fissured. The cavern is about 12 ft. high and iS ft. wide, but has not been explored beyond a depth of about 100 ft. Four hours should be allowed for this detour, j

The road from Maebaru follows the sea-shore, and enters the pro- vince of Hizen shortly before leaching

Hamasaki (Inn, Man ju-ya). Here a road branches r. to Karatsu where coal is extensively mined.

From Toklisne {Inn, Manju-ya) onwards, the road passes through pretty scenery to

Imari (Inns, Nakano, Kyo-ya). This place, situated at the bottom of a small bay, gives its name to the porcelain produced at Arita, which is brought here for export. Imari itself was never a seat of the manufacture. The road to Arita is along a picturesque valley.

Arita (several inns) is prettily situated amongst the hills. The traveller should not fail to visit the potteries, and the quarries of Izumi-yama where the stone is dug. The rock is crushed by levers worked by water-power. These potteries were established in 1592 under the superintendence of a Korean brought over by Nabe- shima. Prince of Hizen. Clay from Hirado and the Goto Islands is now generally used for glazing.

From Arita the nearest way to Nagasaki is by Jand to Kawatana on the gulf of Omura, and thence by steamer to Tokitsu. Another route is to Haiki, 3 ri, and steamer to Tokitsu.

4. — Fbom Fukuoka to Saga oveb

THE Mountains.

Itinerary.

FUKUOKA to :— Ri. Cho. M.

Sowara 32 2^

Tamura 1 16 3^

liba 1 20 3f

Mitsuze-yama 1 27 4^

Sandanda 3 9 8

Daichigawara 2 13 5}

SAGA 2 15

Total 13 10 32i

Only 9 ri of this road are prac- ticable for jinrikishas. The por- tion between liba and Sandanda must be walked. Near Sandanda, at the hamlet of Matsuo, is a fine waterfall 250 ft. high, with a shrine dedicated to Kwannon. There are also two or three small spas in this

896

Route 56, — NoHh' Westei'n Kyushu,

neighbourhood, of which the best is FuntyM possessing several good inns. Further noteworthy are the old Buddhist temple of Jisso-in, and the Shinto shrine of Todo-hime, the oldest in Kyushu, quaintly situated by the riyer-side at the foot of the mountains, and much resorted to by holiday-makers from Saga.

6. — Feom Tosu to Saga, and to Nagasaki by the Main Boao.

Itinerary.

TOSU to:— Ri. Cho. 3f.

Nakabaru 1 24 4

Kanzaki 2 5 5^

SAGA 2 2 5

Ushizu 2 18 6

Oda 2 5 5i

Kitataka 2 11 5f

TAKEO 1 5 2f

TJreshino 3 24 9

Sonogi 3 — 7i

Omura 4 24 Hi

Eisho 3 — 7i

Yagami 3 32 9i

NAGASAKI 3 17 8i

Total 35 23 87

\

Tosn being the nearest station to Saga, travellers alight here. There is an excellent jinrikisha road the whole way on to Nagasaki. Nakabaru is a regular resting- place, though it offers but poor accommodation.

Kanzaki is a large and flourish- ing town, noted for the manufac- ture of vermicelli and maccaroni. A new direct road from this to Saga shortens the journey by 1 ri. A fine bridge spans a tributary of the Ogawa, whose waters in flood time in May or June have often wrought terrible destruction in the surrounding valley.

Saga {Inns^ Hitotsu-ya, Matsu- moto-ya) is situated in the centre of an extensive plain famous for its rice cultivation. This old and cele- brated castle-town was formerly the

seat of the Nabeshima family. Princes of Hizen, whose present representative. Marquis Nabe- shima, now occupies the post of Grand Master of Ceremonies at the Imperial Court and was some time Japanese Minister to Italy. The chief feature of the place is the Shimbaba park, which contains shrines tx) the memory of the ancestors of the Nabeshima family. Among them is a fine white marble memorial to Naomasa, father, of the present' Marquis, who brought it over from Italy. The grounds are prettily laid out. The new Police and Prefectural offices are pretentious buildings in modem style. The old castle has been turned to various purposes, and but few traces of its original grandeur remain ; but a magni- ficent effect is produced in August when the extensive moats are filled with lotus-flowers.

About ^ ri N. of the castle is ^0710 no 0 Chaya, the Nabeshimas* country-seat, which visitors are shown over in the absence of the family by courtesy of the custo- dian.

Saga hfvs given its same to one of the small civil wars which followed the great revolution of 1868, when feudalism was making its last struggle against Im- perialism and Europeanisation. £to bhimpei, some time Minister of Jnstioe under the new Imperial Government, hav- ing returned to his home in Saga, raised the standard of revolt, expectiug all Kyn- shQ to follow him. In this, however, he was disappointed, and the revolt was put down in ten days. Eto and ten otner ringleaders were condemned to death, and their heads exposed on the pillory. Hus took place in 1871.

Leaving Saga the road traverses the great plain forming the head of the Shimabara gulf, across which Fugen-dake can be clearly seen. After passing the long straggling viUage of Ushizu, the road gradually approaches the mountains. Tamor guchi possesses a favourite rest- house half-way to Takeo.

Oda is a busy village with several coal-pits close by the road. At

EoiUe 57 .-^N, E, Coast and Kumamoto,

897

«Lbout 2 ri we pass r. a large re- serToir to supply the fields on the level sea-shore.

Takeo to Sono^i (see p. 390). From Sonogi to Omura along the shore of the gulf is a very pretty ride of 5 ri. The avenue of cherry- trees just before entering the latter liOTm is a great attraction in spring "to .visitors from Nagasaki.

Omiira {Inuy Kambutsu-ya) was formerly the residence of a Dai- ray 5, and is still a busy town. Tbe walls of the castle are still in good preservation. The finely "wooded, well-kept grounds afford a cliarming place to saunter in. Paintings and various other relics of bye-gone days are here preserved in a srnaU building.

Leaving Omura, a capital road tlirough charming scenery passes through Eisho, crosses a spur of the mountains, and descends to Isahaya. The remainder of the ^vay en to Nagasaki is described on p. 389.

[By leaving Saga at 6 a.m. with two jinrikisha-men, the 1.30 P.M. boat may be caught at Sonogi. Should the boat be missed, it i^ possible by taking fresh runners to reach Naga- saki the same evening, the whole distance by road being 30 n from Saga.]

EOUTE 57.

FeOM EOEtTBA TO OlTA BY THB

NoRTHrEAST Coast, and across

COUNTRY TO KuMAMOTO.

ASCENT OF ASO-SAN AND KIMBd-SAN. RAPIDS OP THE KUMAOAWA.

Itinerary.

KOKURA. to :— RL Cho. M.

Igawa 2 — 6

I^nda 2 — 5

Gyoji 1 18 3f

Ohashi 18 H

Shiida 3 18 8^

Matsue 1 — 2^

Hachiya 18 1^

NAKATSU 2—6

TJsa-no-Hachiman 5 — 12^-

Tateishi 3 ^ 7^.

Nobara 2 — 6

Toyooka 2 18 6

Beppu 3 18 8^

OlTA 3 __ 7^

Notsubara 3 18 8i

Takeno-toge 4 — 9f

Takeda :... 4—91

Sugabu 2 18 6

Sasakura 2 — 5

Sakanashi 2 — £

Boju 1 18 3t

Shieda 6 18 ISJ

KUMAMOTO ... 4 18 11

Total 63 — 153f

The above distances can only be considered approximate.

Igawa is a poor village, on leav- ing which the road descends into the valley to Shimosone. Fine views of the Inland Sea are ob- tained on the way. From Kanda the country is very pretty to Ohashi, with views of the islands and sea. The 6 ri take about 4 hrs.

Oliashi (Inn, Goto-ya, on the far side of the town). From here the road ascends to a moor covered with dwarf azaleas for 2 ri. Two enormous fir-trees will be notici^d by the roadside, 30 ft. in circum- ference at the ground. From

898

Route 57. — N, E, Coast and Kumamoto,

Shiida to Mataue the road is stony and hilly.

Nakatsn {Inns, *Sarasa-ya, Mi- • hara-ya) is a busy, thriving town. From this to Yokkaichi on the right trill be observed a high, detached mountain called Hachimen-zan or 'Eight-faced Mountain.' It is a singular conformation, much re- sembling near the summit an ivy- covered fortress.

[From Nakatsu, a jinrikisha road passes through a valley of great beauty to Hida, 10 ri, from which there is a good road to Eurume, 11 ri. 'The road from Nakatsu to Hida,' says Br. Naumann, 'presents a very peculiar sort of scenery, which is not met with in any other part of the coun- try,— pinnacled, columnar, and pyramidal shaped rocks are everywhere seen, and below them a rushing river. In fact one might imagine it was here that the fantastic Chinese style of landscape painting origi- nated.']

The next 3 ri are flat and un- interesting. The ground then rises steadily, leaving the sea.

Tamashita (Fnn, Yodo-ya). The scenery now becomes picturesque.

Tokkaichi (Inn, Tofu-ya, close to a temple of the Shinshu sect). A mile further the road crosses the Hyakkwan river.

Usa-uo-Hachiinan (Inn, Okamo- to-ya) lies at the bottom of a basin formed by surrounding hills. The road passes under a fine large brass torii, crosses the river in a rocky ravine by a handsome covered bridge coloured red, and then passes under an antique gateway on which are inscribed the names of famous marksmen in the Genji period (1864-5). Beyond this is a wide street leading to a pretty park. Here are three Shinto shnnes dedicated respectively to the Em-

perors Ojin and Chuai, and to tlie Empress Jingo, aU bright red and embowered in trees. Passing' under an avenue of fir-tree9> a turn soon hides Usa from sight, eknd the road ascends for some distance. Looking back, a fine view of the sea opens out. Descending, the road crosses a river by a noble bridgpe, and soon passes the boundary that separates the provinces of Bnng-o and Buzen. As soon as we enter Bungo, the scenery becomes bold and magnificent, mountains rising- on each side to a height of 1,000 ft. The road gradually ascends by the side of a river, and after passing through Kanamaru-Machi» the scenery becomes more pictur- esque. At Mukunoto is a large reservoir formed by damming up the valley.

Tateishi (good inn). Passing Eii;Lzan-bashi, the rosid becomes level and the view gradually opens out. Descending a steep hiU we reach Nobara-mura, from which a road 1. leads direct to Hiji;. but that to the r. is recommended for the scenery. We next cross the river Gogawa and walk for 3 ri over the moimtains, a steep pull of 1 hr. up a good road to the top of the Kanagoi-toge. Here a halt should be made, and one of the peaks ascended for the sake of the view ; 10 min. will suffice. South is Yufu- dake j W. Earaki-yama ; there is a magnificent panorama of the coast and bay from Kizuki N. to Oita S., and of the Bungo Channel ; the Gulf of Oita lies below. The road descends by steep gradients to the shore. A fine road winds round to Oita, 1 m. from the foot of the mountain. Wide sands extend for the next ri to

Tanegawa, a dirty village with a curious arrangement of open hot baths, one to about every six houses, on both sides of the street. The water comes from the hot- springs above Beppu. Immense numbers of dwarf mulberry trees

Beppu and its Vicinity.

399

:remiiid one that Bungo is famous <or its silk.

Beppn (Inn, Hinago-ya) is a cele- l>Tated resort on account of its hot liaths. Every street has a bath- lioase, as well as the hotels and ;principal houses. The whole ground of the semi-circular flat that girds the bay is undermined by volcanic vapours and hot water. In the suburb of Hamawake on the shore across the river Asami, are "two very large bath-houses called the East and West Baths. Each accommodates about 400 patients, the Ught of whom bathing is a unique spectacle. The baths, which are sunk in the ground, are gra- duated to suit all sorts of chronic diseases, and on the piUars are labels giving the requisite informa- tion. The sea water flows in gently at high tide and reduces the tem- perature. Visitors are warned in the native guide book ' not to kill the ox whilst straightening the horns,' that is, not to injure their constitutions to cure a local affec- tion. The temperature of the waters, which are alkaline and chalybeate with large quantities of carbonic acid gas, is from 100° to 132° F.

To the S.W. on the bay is a lofty precipice called Takazaki, easily ascended from the land side, whose summit commands a glorious view.

[No person eager for new sights and not over-squeamish should fail to visit the solf ataras from which the hot baths are sup- plied, a distance of 1 ri 8 chd by jinrikisha to the vill. of Kannawa-mura. Open hot baths will be noticed at intervals by the roadside. In the village is a steam bath-house which holds 16 persons at a time. It is walled round with stone and roofed in, and there is but a small aperture for ventilation. The floor is a lattice, under which rushes a stream of

natural boiling water. The entrance is by a low door covered with a straw mat> beneath a curious shrine. Intending bathers wait in a lar^e ante-room in a state of nudity, each paying 10 sen for the day, and receiving a' tally. As soon as one emerges from under the mat, another gives up his tally and enters, each stopping in for about an hour. The bathers come out covered with droppings of mud and rushes which fall from the roof, and hasten to cool at a large pool on the other side of the street under six spouts of fresh water. Along the sides of the village streets are to be seen kettles and sauce- pans set to boil over holes in the ground. Natural hot water in large quantities flows through pipes from the springs above the village, and opposite the door of each house is a set of holes for cooking purposes, covered with sods when not wanted. The largest geyser, Umi JigokUy is jJrettily situated under a leafy bank. It is 42 ft. in diameter, and the water which is intensely green, boils with great force, but does not rise above 2 or 3 feet. An- other, called Ishi Jigohi, is full of reddish stones ; and Bozu JigokUy situated in a wood of flrs and bamboos near by is also worth a visit. It is a geyser of light grey mud, the noise of which is deafen- ing-]

Behind the town of Beppu rises Tsurumi-yama, the centre of all this volcanic activity. It would no doubt repay a visitor with leisure to explore its well-wooded ravines. Yufu, also called the Bungo Fuji,, on account of its beautiful conical shape, stands at the back of Beppu.

[Beppu can be reached from

400

Route 57, — N, E. Coast and Kumamoto.

Kurume via Hida through the picturesque Yabake valley (see p. 393), about 24 ri. There is a fair jinrikisha road all the way. Iz is advisable to sleep at Hida.]

The trig by jinrikisha from Beppu to Oita is one of the most picturesque in Japan. On the r. are high cliffs covered with foliage, the sea is far below, and mountains rise in the distance. At about 1^ ri the road passes through a tun- nel, and in 1 ri more turns from the sea through shady groves to

Oita {Inn by Mizuno in Hori- kawa Machi), capital of the pre- fecture of the same name, a large and busy port with long, dirty suburbs. From this, port, steamers run at irregular intervals to Shi- koku, Kobe, Osaka, and Shimono- seki. The chief manufacture of Oita is silk yar6, which is produced in large quantities.

It was to this place that the Portuguese adventurer, Mendez Pinto, found his way in the year 1513 when he had discovered Japan, and met with a friendly reception from the Dainr^o. The wonders or his arquebus, the first explosive weapon ever seen by the Japanese, are still spoken of by the townsfolk. The great Jesuit mis- sionary, St. Francis Xavier, also spent some time at Oita a few years afterwanls ; and Otomo, the lord of Fumai, Ets Oita used to be called, was the first Daimyo to become a Christian.

About 3 ri from Oita a curious double bridge, the Taurutsti-hashi-^ one low for dry seasons, and one very high for flood-time — crosses the Hachiman-gawa. After this, the road runs between rocky walls covered with foliage to

Nolsiibara. One mile before reaching the vill. there is a saline spring, which also contains car- bonic acid gas. Notsubara lies in the midst of a very large crater, having perpendicular walls of rock covered with vegetation. A river runs through the crater, and the road crosses it by two parallel bridges, one much higher .than the other. Oh crossing the

top of the crater wall, a lovely- view opens out. The road continues through exceedingly wild and pic- turesque scenery, until at 5 ri from. Oita it emerges on a plateau, whence for 1 ri it leads through, grand woods which now and then: give peeps of mountains behind. Again it ascends for 1^ ri to a pass where the Fujiya inn offers rough but welcome shelter. The ascent is followed by a descent of 4 ri through well- wooded country to

Takeda (Inn by Eawamura in Teramachi). This most remark-^ able place which was once a Dai- myo's seat, is shut out from the outer world by a natural wall of limestone aboirt 180 ft. high, and from 20 ft. to 30 ft. broad. This wall rises almost perpendi- cularly from the plain, and entirely encloses the town through which runs a broad river, the Inaba-gawa. Access was formerly obtained by a sloping path to the summit out- side and by a similar one inside. About 20 years since, seven or eight tunnels were cut through the rock, 18 ft. wide and 20 ft. high. The southern tunnel is 180 yds. in length, and has a deep well near the outer entrance. This tunnel is 15 ft. wide and 12 ft. high.

There is no sign whatever of any human dwellings as one approaches the outside of the rocky wall ; but then comes the plunge through the damp, dark hole, and on emerg- ing into daylight one finds oneself in the clean and busy little town of 8,000 inhabitants, wliich played a prominent part in the Satsuma Rebellion.

About i m. outside the town by the southern tunnel, is a sin- gular waterfall in a zigzag, the left face 200 ft. wide, the right forming an entering angle 35 ft. and 25 ft., the whole about 30 ft. high and called Shira-takL Four ri from Takeda on the east, is a grand fall of 300 ft., called Chinda, Prisoners condemned to

Takeda, Kwnamoto, Ascent of Aso-mn,

401

death were precipitated over this xn. ancient times^ and if they es- ostped alive were pardoned. Qn the ■wrest, about 4 ri distant, is the SKinomizu fall, 180 ft. high.

On leaving Takeda, the road gra- dually ascenc^s until a ridge about 1,600 ft. above the sea is reached, "wrMch affords splendid views. No accommodation is to be found for 3 ri. At Sugdbu the_road joins the old main road from Oita, now little used. On the 1. rises Sobo-san, on "fclie r. Kuju-san, and in front Aso- san with its pillar of smoke. There is an inn at Sasakura, soon after leaving which viU. the road enters a ravine. The descent is un- usually steep for nearly 1,000 ft., — ^in fact it is a plunge into the old crater of Aso-san with its hun- dred villages — the first about a mile from the bottom of the des- cent being

8akanaslii ( Inn, Sonoda-ya ), ■w^liere the night is usually spent. On the 1. is Neko-dake, and on the r. the rocky wall of the old crater sweeping round in a majestic circle. One and a half ri further is Boju on the way to Aso-san.

Knmamoto, (Innst Suigetsu, and others near Semba-bashi), a garri- son town, formerly the capital of the Princes of Higo and now the chief town of the prefecture of Kumamoto which comprises the two provinces of Higo and Chikugo, lies on the Shirakawa, 4 m. from the mouth of that river. Having 53,000 inhabitants, it is the most populous city in Kyushu. It has fine streets planted with trees, public gardens, and above all a magnificent castle.

This celebrated fortress, which stands on an eminence aTx)ve the town, was built hy Kat5 Kiyomasa, and is one of the finest surviving relics of the feudal period. The noble defence of this place in 1^77 1^ Greneral Tani was one of the immediate causes of the failure of the Satsuma Rebel- lion under Saigd. Instead of masking it, and marching onwards to Kokura, SaigO laid siege to the castle. During the weeks thus wasted by him, the Imperial

Government had time to hurry down ti-oops to oppose his further progress, and after some bloody battles on Tawara-zaka and at Ueki and Yamaka to the N., he was obliged finally to retire in the direc- tion of Hitoyoshi.' Crossing over into Hytlga, he endeavoured to force his way up the E. coast of KyUsha, but was checked again at Nobeoka, where tlie main body of his anny was forced to sur- render. With a few chosen companions he escaped across the mountains back to Kagoshima, which he re-occupied, taking up a strong position on Shiroyama behind the town. The Imperial troops were not long in surrounding the rebel post, and after a summons to surrender, which met with no response, an assault was made early one morning. After a brief but desperate struggle, the survivors laid down their arms. Having received a severe wound, Saigo submitted to de- capitation at the hands of a devoted friend, more Japouico. Thus ended the last serious attempt" to oppose the develop- ment of the enlightened principles of government that have transformed the political condition of modern Japan.

At Kunlamoto there is a pretty park called Suizenji, once the garden of the country house of the Hosokawa family. It hes in a southerly direction from the pre- fectural office, and is reached by a road over the Ansei-bashi. The spot affords fine views, and the dwarf azaleas on rounded knolls are exceedingly pretty. A spring in the garden forms a large stream which is filled with fish. The walk takes about ^ hr.

One H N.W. of the town is situated the shrine of Kato Kiyo- masa, which is reached by a long flight of steps, lined on either side by cherry-trees. The oratory contains ex- vote pictures representing Kiyo- masa's exploits in Korea. The tomb- is enclosed, and the courtyard in front generally crowded with wor- shippers from all parts of Kyushu.

Excursions from Kumamoto. Ascent op Aso-san.

Jinrikishas can be taken to Boju and back, by the road which runs by the side of the Shirakawa and below the level of the old Ozu road. The new road is not so- interesting as the old one, which

402

Route 57. — N,E, Coast and Kumamoto.

lies along an avenue of pine-trees 300 years old. Soon after leaving Kumamoto, the road descends r. to the bank of the river, and straight ahead is seen the lofty column of steam ascending from Yunotan half-way up the moun- tain. The whole distance to Boju is 11 ri. At a distance of 71 ri. from Kumamoto is Tateno-mura, situat- ed between two lofty mountains, — Kitamuki-yama on the r., Tateno- yama on the 1. At this point it is well to leave the jinriMshas, send- ing them on to Boju, and to visit Tochinoki 8hin-yu on the r. of the road, from which the ascent can be made viA Yunotan to the crater of Aso-san and the descent to Boju.

[Should the traveller be going on from this place to Oita, he should go on about ^ mile be- fore leaving the road for To- chinoki and visit two water- falls— the Shiraito no taki and Suganiga no taki — formed by the fall of the Kurokawa over a ledge of black rocks. They are close to the road-side, a nar- row path descending for a few yards to a small jutting plateau crowned with trees. Standing on this, we see both falls at once, the Shiraito on the r., the Sugaruga, on the 1. Dobin- dake rises in the background, the whole forming a perfect picture whose rare beauty will never be forgotten.]

The road descends from Tateno- mura on the r. about i m., then by a zigzag to the river bank opposite to Tawara-yama. Here two streams meet at the foot of a precipice some 500 ft. high, clothed with verdure. On a jutting rock stands the inn of Tochinoki Shin-yu kept by Hatashima, (good accommocUi- tion.) The hot-springs are close by, with a special jjath for foreigners. There is also a tea-house reserved for high officials, with a capital £ton6 bath. From this place a

mountain path along the ravine for 2 m. leads to the old. spa, where people of all ages and both sexes disport themselves in. al fresco baths ingeniously erected against the side of the hill. Dee- cending to the water a few stejm to the 1., we find ourselves opposite the Aigaeri, a fine waterfall. In order to save time, a guide should be procured at Tochinoki. A steady ascent thence leads over a g^rassy moor to Yunotan, Ik ri. The view of the valley behind, in the direction of Kumamoto, is remark- ably fine. At Yunotan is a greab geyser of red mud and boiling water, varying from 12 ft. to IS- ft. in. height and about 30 ft. in diameter. A number of rough bath buildings and a few straggling cottages with primitiye mountain inns for visitors make up a strange scene. From this a steady walk of 2 hra. takes one to the summit. About i m. from the crater is a temporary village, only occupied from March to October by sulphur workers. One or two will accom- pany the visitor to the crater, iLnd show him the best route over the cinders and scoriee. On surmount- ing the ridge, there is a descent of about 15 ft. to a bed of ashes which fills half the cavity. From the edge of this we look down to the orifice about 150 feet below, from which boiling water and masses of sulphur are constantly being ejected with great noise. The guide will descend and procure a lump of crude sulphur quite hot ; but visitors are not allowed to descend owing to the danger. About forty people live at the village during the summer, and generally some fatal accidents oc- cur in the course of the season. A sacred sword preserved in a temple on Aso-san is much venerated by the people, and watched over day and night by an official in antique garb. The descent to Boju, 2 hrs..

Ascent of Aso-san and Kimbo-mn,

403

reveals the wonderful panorama of the old crater out of which the present peak rises. ' The walls surrounding it are 'about 800 ft. high, the bottom seems quite level, and there are over a hundred vil- lages within its circumference of 30 miles. Thus Aso-san is probably the largest crater in the world. !Boju is at the end farthest from Kumamoto, about 1^ ri from the eastern wall. The road back runs almost due west for 3^ ri to Tateno-mura. On the 1. we see Aso-san and Dobin-dake ; and the pillar of steam from Yunotan ; on the r., the old road ascending to the Futa-ai-no-toge. A fine bridge crosses the Kurokawa at the exit from the old crater, and 1 ri further we reach the waterfalls and Tateno-mura. _0n the 1. a road diverges to the Ozu.road; but there is nothing to repay the traveller for leaving the direct road in the valley to Kums^inoto. Starting early — say 6 a.m. on a fine day — and making sure that the guide takes a lantern and candles for the descent to Boju in case of •delay, all can be well done in 2 days, i.e. from Kumamoto and back.

Eruptions of Aso-san have l^een chroni- cled from the beginning of Japanese his- tory. The last was in February, 1884, when immense quantities of black ashes and dust were ejected and carried by the wind as far as Kumamoto, where for three days it was so dark that aitificial light had to l)e used. The crops in many of the fields in the intervening valley were destroyed by the ashes. Great activity also marked the volcano and geysers in 1889 at the time of the earthquake on the yfith July, which did much damage in Kumamoto and was felt severely 70 m. away.

Ascent of Kimbo-san.

The ascent of this mountain, also called Kimpu-san, 2,100 ft. above the sea, may be made in about 2f hrs. from Kumamoto ; the des- cent in 2 hrs. Passing along the N. side. of the castle and keeping straight on across the fields, the track of the railway now in course

of construction between Kumamoto and Takase is crossed. From this the way leads past a steep little hill, the sides of which seem to be a good deal used as stone quarries, and thence up a pretty valley by a road paved with large flat stones. The path then turns 1., and the ascent of Kimbo-san begins at an old well by the side of a large new wooden torii (1 hr. 35 m.). This torii has been erected to replace the old stone one, which 'was thrown down and shattered during the terrible earthquakes of 1889. The path hence to the summit is very- steep and generally bad, but the views amply reward one for the exertion involved in the climb. On the top stands a small temple, the stone torii here also having been shaken down and broken by the earthquakes above-mentioned. Se- ismologists, indeed, considered Kimpu-san to have been the centre of the disturbances, and an erup- tion of the mountain was at one time feared.

The view from the top is very- fine, taking in the gulf of Shima- bara, the towering form of Fugen- dake on the Shimabara peninsula to the W., the island of Ama- kusa, and to the S. the Satsuma mountains. Almost due £. lies Aso-san, with its great columns of steam rising from openings on the W. side and near the summit. Further N. runs another range of hiUs seen from the 1. of the road between Yamaga and Kumamoto. The mountain scenery is very strik- ing ; but still more so is the view of the great plain of Kumamoto, the city with its picturesque castle and parade ground, and the serpentine windings of the Shirakawa. The comparatively small elevation of Elimbo-san gives little idea of the extent and beauty of the view to be obtained from the summit.

404

Eoute 58. — From Kumamoto to Nobeoka and Oita,

3. The Eapids of the Kumagawa.

For the descent of these rapids^ one of the most picturesque river Toyages in Japan, the traveller goes for 12 ri by jinrikisha to Yatsusliiro, {Inns, *Matsumura-ya, Takata), where the night should h^ spent, and then on to Siijiki (Inn, Hashimoto-ya), from which place there is a good road, 3 ri, to Tsu^e on the Kumagawa, where boats may be obtained for the descent of the river to Yatsushiro. The rapids begin about 25 m. above Yatsushiro, and are some thirty in number. R. and 1. rise steep limestone cliffs, covered with fine plantations of cryptome- rias, pines, and bamboos. About half-way down there is a large cave, called Konose-iwa-do, with a shrine inside and a subterranean stream running through it. The cave is about 250 ft. long, the same in height, and 200 ft. broad. It is well- worth landing to see. At last the river issues into the alluvial plain bordering the sea, and the current becomes slower.

If bound from Yatsushiro to Nagasaki, the traveller can follow the Kumamoto road for 8 ri, as far as Udo, from which point a road turns south-west to Misumi, the new port of Kumamoto, 6 ri. Small boats also ply on the bay between Yatsushiro and Misumi.

In proceeding from Kumamoto to Nagasaki, one may take steamer from Hyakkwan, at the mouth ot the river, or go to Misumi by a good road, 9 ri, whence larger steamers start for Nagasaki and Osaka. Particulars may be learnt at the shipping offices in Kuma- moto.

EOUTE 58. From Kumamoto to Nobeoka

AND OlTA ON THE EaST CoAST.

ASCENT OF SOBO-SAN; THE BAPIDS OF THE GOKASE-GAWA AND THE ONA-GAWA.

Itinerary.

KUMAMOTO to :— Ri. Chb. M.

Mifune 4 13 lOf

Hamamachi (Yabe) 6 31 16|

Mamihara 5 30 14^

Mitai 6 — 14f

Miyamizu 4 18 11

Shimmachi 3 — 7^

Takeshita 1—2^

NOBEOKA (Si^irs.

by boat or) 6 18 15J

Kumada 4 7 loj

Shigeoka 6 — 14f

Onoichi 2 3 5

Miya-no-ichi 4 29 llf

Hosonaga 3 — 7^

Tsurusaki (5 hrs.

_ by boat)

OITA 2 10 5i

Total 60 15 147i

Plus 5 hrs. by boat.

[The above itinerary is that of the main road. In order to ascend Sobo-san, a more northerly road for the first portion of the route has to be followed, namely to 8hin-yu, 3 hrs. journey, all by jinrikisha except the last i hr. (p. 402). It is a walk of 9 j ri from Shin-yu to Kawachi, passing 'through Shimmachi and Takamori (Inn, Sakai-ya), 5 ri from Shin-yu. From Kawachi the ascent of Sobo-san, is made, — a moun- tain by some considered to be the highest in Kyushii, though the palm is more generally awarded to Kirishima-yama further to the south. Leaving Takamori, a climb of i hr. leads to the top of a pass, 2,950

Ascent of Sobo-san. Noheoka,

405

ft. above thfe seg,, a little be- yond which Sobo-san comes in sight. The road onwards is one of continuous ups and downs ; but the country is very beautiful, especially where the path crosses a narrow valley called Kawabashiri, 2\ri from Takamori. Magnificent'crypto- merias rise up on the opposite side of the valley, some being nearly 200 ft. in height, and presenting a most imposing aspect when viewed from the valley below. From Kaidachi, {Inn, Kaji-ya), 1,500 ft. above the sea, the way up Sobo san lies over the Mieno-toge, 2,800 ft. high, and through the vill. of Gokasho, 1« hr., the actual ascent commencing at a tor- rent-bed, f hr. from the latter place. The climb, which is very rough and steep, especially the last 1,000 ft., will take a good mountaineer 2 hrs., or o hrs. from Kawachi including stop- pages. The profusion of maples on the sides of the mountain opposite is a wonderful sight. From the summit of Sobo, 6,100 ft., there is a grand panorama of mountains stretching range beyond range and peak be- yond peak. To the N.E. ap- pears the sea in the vicinity of Oita, and even the island of Shikoku is visible in clear weather. A torii and a small stone shrine stand on the sum- mit. The descent to Kawachi takes 4^ hrs.]

It is 3^ ri from Kawachi to where trhe main Nobeoka road is joined at

Mitai, the whole way being marvellously b^utiful, worthy of Switzerland itself. The same land of scenery continues on past Mitai, the road entering a magnificent gorge through which runs a deep, emerald green river with rocky walls rising on either side to a height of many hundred

feet. These walls once formed part of a huge stream of lava which came down from the crater of Aso-san.

Miyamizn (fair acconunodation) is prettily situated among the hills at an altitude of 600 ft. The road onwards follows the Grokase-gawa to Shimmachi, the copper mines near which were formerly of some note. At

Tnkesliitn, boats can be taken down the river, which has some foaming rapids and overhanging rocks. The passage to Nobeoka takes about 5^ hrs. Traps are used on this river for catching.trout. The trap consists of a kind of chevaux de /rise, made of bamboo and fixed transversely across the stream at the top of the rapids, the force of the water being there so great that the fish, when once caught in the trap, find the current too strong to allow of their escape.

Nobeoka (Inw,Kome-ya) is a con- siderable town built on both sides of the Gokase-gawa. Not far from the town is the Nunohiki-taki, one of the finest waterfalls in Japan, whose height is estimated to be 240 ft., its breadth 30 ft.

Nobeoka was the last stronghold of the Satsuma reljels. On the 14th Auglist, 1877, the town surrendered, 8,000 insur- gents, among whom nearly 3,000 wounded, fiving themselves up. The rebel chief aigo, \\'ith 50<) devoted followers, fought his way out and escaped to Klagoshima.

Though much less beautiful than the first half of the journey, the second half from Nobeoka to Oita is yet not devoid of interest. On leaving Nobeoka, the road follows up the Kitagawa from its mouth until it becomes a tiny rill. The Akamatsu-toge, 1,250 ft. above the sea, is passed about 1 ri before reaching

Shiureoka (poor accommodation). The chief feature of the next day's journey consists in the high passes that have to be crossed — first the Ono-ichi-toge, where a fierce battle was fought during the Satsuma

406

Route 59. — Nagasaki to Kagosldma.

Rebellion, and the Miknni-tdge, 2,150 ft. hieh, so-called because portions of the three provinces of Hynga, Bnn^o, and Higo are Tisible from the top. The view is a very fine one.

On the top of the Miknni-tdge is the irrave of the Daimyd of Mimizn, who, daring the Rebellion, was surprised by the Imperial troops in a mde fort which he haa coDStmcted, and tc^ther with his followers was captured and slain.

From the summit of the pass to

.Hijra-no-i(*lli {Inn, *Puji-ya) is about 2 ri of constant ascents and descents. Quitting this town, the road at first passes along a fine avenue of cryptomerias, and then descends to meet the river Onagawa at Ho8onaga, a small cluster of houses. Travellers here usually abandon the road, and engage a boat for the rest of the way to T»U' rusahi on the coast, whence by jinrikisha to

oita. See p. 400.

The voyage down the river in- cludes the shooting of a remark- ably fine rapid.

If it be wished to shorten this trip and yet retain the best part of it, the boat journey from Hoso- naga may stop at Ichiba, only an hour or so down the river and including the finest rapid, from which place there is a road almost due W. to Takeda, the distance being about 7| ri.

ROUTE 59.

Fbom Naqasaki to Kaqokhtita. volcano of sakuba-jika.

Kagoshima may be reached from Nagaisaki by steamers leaving twice weekly. Another route presenting more variety, but occupying from 5 to 6 days, is as follows.

Itineraty,

NAGASAKI to :— Ei. Cho. Jf.

Mogi 2—5

Oni - no - ike, in

Amakusa (by

boat) 13 — 311

Hondo.. 3—71

Ota 5 — 12

Komenotsu, ( by

boat) 16 — 361

Affune 5 24 13f

Nishikata 3 12 7f

Mukoda 4 — lOi^

Ichiku, (Minato). 4 4 lOi

Ijuin 3 17 8i

KAGOSHIMA... 4 17 1(^

Total 63 2 153f

The land portion of this journey is best performed on foot ; but pack- horses can be taken from Hondo to Ota, and from Kome^no-tsu to Kagoshima. Jinrikishas can also be got for the last 2 ri before reaching Kagoshima.

An alternative way is to take boat direct from Mogi to Agune, passing the night, if necessary, at Ushibuka at the S. end of Amakusa.

For the road to Mogfi, see p. 382. Here a roomy boat should be en- gaged for the passage to Oni-no-Ae at the N. end of the island of Amakusa, and arrangements should be made for spending the night on board. In fine weather the passage across will be found very enjoyable, there being beautiful views both of Onsen-ga-take and the Nagasaki peninsula. On the following morn- ing the start is made by a fairly

Kagoshuna.

407

good road which skirfcs the shore to th.e village of Oshima, and then traverses highly cultivated country to Hondo, Thence it con- tinues in a southerly direction, partly along the coast and partly over liills, to the little fishing vil- lage of Ota, where a boat must be engaged for the passage to Konie- i\o-t»u, (fair accommodation), a small port at the mouth of a river on the northern coast of Satsuma. The road now strikes inland. From the viU. of Fumoto, 1 ri f urf her, it is lined for many miles with fine <sryptomerias, and charming views are obtained after it rejoins the sea at

Ag^me (comfortable accommoda- ; tion). The road now passes up a ! narrow valley, having salt-pans I fed by natural salt-springs among I the rice-fields. The rest of the way is up and down hill to "SiihilcaJtat a small town prettily situated on the shore. Here the road again leaves the shore, and passes over two steep hills into a lovely valley. Sendai and Mukdd4i are situated on opposite banks of the Sendai-gawa. This neigh- bourhood witnessed some fighting during the rebellion. On the way from Mukoda to Ichiku, a town on the Gulf of Kagoshima, there is a silver mine, just before Koshi-no- Fumoto is passed. From Ichiku the road lies on the inner side of an embankment, and then rises on to high ground commanding a magnificent view of the volcano of Sakura-jima. Tsuboya, a vill. of Korean origin, lies a little way off the main road. From Ijuin the walk to Kagoshima is along a high plateau, with a view extending over a succession of fine mountains. We descend steeply just before entering the town of Kagoshima.

Kagoshima {Inns, Eakumei- kwan, Banshd-tei ; Okabe-ya, near the landing-place), capital of the prefecture of the same name, stimds on the W. shore of the tnost

southern g^ulf in Japan, opposite the volcanic island of Sakura-jima*

Kagofihima, one of the most ancient cities in Japan, was long the scat of the Shimazu family, lords of Satsuma, Osmni, and part of Hyfiga, and suzerains of Loo- choo. It was a centre of great political activity between the year 1854, when the first treaty with the United States was con- cluded, and the revolution of 1868, which was in a great measure brought aboofr by the energy and determination of the Satsuma mea. On the 16th August, 18tf8» it was 1x)mbarded by a British squadron, of seven ships under Admiral Kuper, and a large part of the town was burnt, in conseciuence of the Prince of Satsum* having refused satisfaction for the murder of Richardson in 1862. Most of the forta were dismantled, in spite of a typhoon, which raged throughout the day ; but the squadron also suffered considerably. The captain and commander of the flagship were killed on the bridge by a round shot, and the total loss in killed and wounded was 68. After the revolution, many of the Satsuma leaders became dissatisfied with the progressive policy of the Imperial government, and their discontent culmi- nated in 1877 in a rebellion, headed by Saigd Takamori and others who had fought by his side against the ShOgunate and in favour of the restoration of the Mikado to supreme power in 1868-9. Ife was suppressed after some eight or mne months warfare, and the town of Kago- shima again fell a prey to the fiames. Sai- gd himself foug[ht bravely on Shiroyama, a long low hill just behind the town. The cave where he submitted to decapitation at the hand of a friend, who then com- mitted suicide, is still shown, as also. the hole in which the ^n^at reliel's head was hidden, to prevent it froitli falling into the hands of the enemy. The view from l^b»> royama is very striking.

The peculiar kind of cloth com- monly called Saiauma-jofu, sold at Kagoshima, is manufactured in the Loochoo Islands. It is made from hemp bark worked into very fine threads, and is costly, the price ranging from 910 to $50 a tan, which is about 11 yds.< English. The manufacture of one tan is said to occupy a woman of the islands for more than a year. This cloth is also known by the name of how. Another kind of erass cloth, called hathofu, also made in the Loochoo Islands, is sold at Kagoshima^ This is woven from the bark of the plantain, and used in summer by the poorer classes.

408 Route 60, — From Kagoshima overland to lutmamoto.

Kagoshima is the seat of the manufacture of the celebrated Sa- tsnma crackled faience, the best pieces of which were produced at the Daimyo's cost. Potting is carried on at Tanoura in the E. suburb of the town, and at the in- teresting vill. of Tsuboya where live the descendants of a niunber of Korean potters who were trans- ported thither towards the end of the 17th centiu^y at the time of Hideyoshi's conquest of Korea.

The gardens of the former Princes of Satsuma at Iso near Kagoshima are famed for their beauty.

Sakiinvjinia is a day's excursion from Kagoshima. Boat is taken to the vill. of Kurokami on the E. coast of the island, a highly pictur- esque passage of 3 hrs. skirting the S.' coast. At Kurokami a hot- stream flows down, and there are several other hot-springs on the island. The crater of the volcano is reached by a track through long bamboo gi*ass and shrubs, the summit of the mountain being 4,200 ft. high. The crater, whose walls are very steep and wild- looking ii 300 ft. or 400 ft. deep, and the view one of great mag- ficence. Immediately in front of the spectator, to the W., lies the town of Kagoshima ; on the S. E. rises Kaimon-dake, and in the opposite direction the two massive peaks of the Kirishima range — Takachiho on the r., and Karaku- nimi-dake on the 1. Beyond, in the distance, lie the mountains of Hyuga, whUst below, on every side, stretches the lovely bay of Kagoshima dotted with islets.

Kagoshima has steam commimi- cation with the Loochoo Islands twice monthly, taking 2t} days to make the passage ; with Osaka and Kobe via Nagasaki, twice Weekly, and direct about six times a month.

EOUTE 60.

«

From Kagoshima to Kuiishima-

YAMA, AND vid THE RaPIDS OF THE KUMAGAWA TO KUMAMOTO.

The description of this route as far as Hitoyoshi is chiefly compiled from the diary of the Rev. Walter Weston, who traversed the ground in April, 1891. Those to whom speed is the chief consideration- may preferably take the wide jinri- kisha road with brick-faced tunnels which runs from Kagoshima to Minamata and Sajiki, whence there- is a good road, 3 W, to Tsuge on the Kiunagawa, and thence by boat down ithe rapids to Yatsushiro.

From Kagoshima to Kajiki is a distance of 5 ri 6 did, or a little over 12 m., practicable for jinriki- shas. Thence onwards, the average time occupied is given.

Kajiki to : — Howrs.

Yashiro (horseback) 5 — 6

Ascent of Takachiho (on

foot) 2.\ .

Takachiho to Enoyu (on

foot) 2\

Ascent of Karakiinimi-

dake (on foot) 22

Karakunimi-dake to Yo-

kogawa (on foot) 5 .V

Yokogawa to Yoshida

(horseback) 4^

Yoshida to Hitoyoshi (on

foot) 5

Hitoyoshi to Yatsushiro

(boat) 5 — 8

Yatsushiro to Kumamoto

(jinrikisha) 5

In starting from Kagoshima, the traveller has the choice of the road along the shore of the bay, or of steamer direct to Kajiki.

Leaving the town by the N., the road passes along the base of the hills past Iso to Shingakuji, a temple dedicated to the me- mory of a son of a Prince of Satsuma who was delivered up at the end of the 16th centiuy, in

Ascott of Kirishima-yama.

409

expiation of the lonj^ resistance offered by the House of Shijnazu "to Hideyoshi. From

Knjiki (Inn^ Nezumi-ya; also a new house at the landing-place), t-hose not caring to aseend Kiri- shinia may proceed direct to Yosliida, a distance of 10 ri. A j^old mine is being worked about ^6 i'i from Kajiki.

On. leaving Kajiki the road pass- es through rugged and fantastic* scenery, showing frequent evidence of volcanic action. At a distance of 2^ ri from Kajiki stands the hamlet of Miyauchi, which takes its name from a fine temple erect- ed not long ago to Hachiman, under the shade of a splendid j ^rove of trees. Again wending through interesting country, we reach the Katsurazaka-toge, one of the most beautiful passes in Japan. In front rise the peaks of Kirishima, — Takachiho whence is- sue large volumes of steam, and Karakunimi-dake, still higher but at a greater distance. On the 1. are the Satsuma hills, while behind towers Sakiu*a-jima, with Kaimon- 4ake far beyond at the end ot the peninsula. For some distance the road passes along the plateau tlui.s ii:ained,j,nd then descends to tlic vill. of Okuho, whence it is 2 ri to

Yaslliro. also called Taguchi, or Kirishima Onsen (Imiy Takenon«;hi). The first of these names, which means Shinto temple, is derived IVom a handsome shrine standing at the top of a flight of steps and hidden amidst dense foliage. In front of it, a path leads luider a fine torii to a point on the moun- tain side from which a grand view is obtained in the direction of Kagoshima Bay. Yashiro, which is 1,500 ft. high, is the starting- point for the ascent of

Takachiho-dake {HigasJd Kiri-

-ahima).

Pitjperly speakint?, the iiaine of Klri- *hlmn should be confineil to this eastern peak, the appellation of the western and

hij^her, hut less striking peak, Tieinir Kara- kunimi-dake, which is so called from the idea that it affords, a viov of China or Korea (Kam). Kirishima is, however, commonly used as a general name for the whole range. This mountain is celebratCMl in Japanese mythology as the peak on whicli the god Ninigi, grandson of the Sun-Goddess Amatenisu, alighted when he came down from Heaven to pave the way for the concjuest of Japan. Tl»e celebi-ated ' Heavenly Sword ' on the sum- mit of Takachiho is considered to be a relic of this divinity.

On leaving the temple, the path turns to the 1. straight through the wood, and in 40 min. reaches the upper edge of the forest at an altitude of about' 2,250 ft. From this point the peak of Takachiho is seen right ahead, and as the ascent be- comes less steep, good progress is easily made. The path crosses a track on the W. side of the peak, and leads into the valley of the Nojiri-gawa. At the summit of the pass, the track turns to the r., and mounts by a zigzag path over scoriae and ashes to the N.W. side of the edge of the crater, which is about l,5uO ft. in diameter, and per- haps 30k) ft. deep. At the bottom is a small lake, from which dense clouds of steam mingled with powerful fumes of sulphur come rolling up with a loud roar. The outlines of the crater lip are strongly indented. Tlie actual sum- mit of the mountain (5,530 ft.) is higher up, and marked by a large pile of stones, below which is a rest-house. But the most interest- ing object is the ' Heavenly Sword* already referred to. The material is bronze, the 8haj)e antique and clumsy, the length about 4| ft., and the sword is fixed in the ground hilt upwards. The view from the summit is very extensive, being similar to that from Kara- kunimi-dake described below, but more open towards the E. The large lake far l^elow on the E. side of the mountain is called Mi-ike. The distance from base to sunuuit is locally estimated at 2i ri.

410 Route 60, — From Kagoshima overland to Kumamoto,

While the ascent of Takachiho is being made, the baggage should be sent round to Enoyu. (inn, Yasuda- ya), a long, straggling vill. consist- ing chiefly of inns and bath-houses for the use of those who come to take tiie waters.

Karakiinimi-dake, the higher or W. peak of Kirishima, may be ascended from here, the distance being locally estimated at 2^ rr, but probably longer. Another plan, perfectly feasible if an early start be made from Yashiro and wea- ther be fine, is to do both moun- tains the same day, first Takachiho and then Karakunimi-dake, des- cending to Yokogawa, whither of course the baggage will have been sent on ahead. On the way up Karakunimi-dake, the views of Sakura-jima and other mountains are magnificent. A good hour's climb from Enoyu brings one to the edge of a circular crater, not steaming and sulphureous like that of Takachiho, but calm and clear, and containing a beautiful lake of emerald green, from whose margin rises a belt of fir-trees that clothe the sides of the precipi- tous inner wall to its highest edge. This lake, called Onami-ike, is about 1 ri in circumference, whilst the height of the lowest part of the crater lip is 4,680 ft. The way to the summit of the mountain leads through a dense undergrowth of bamboo grass and small trees before issuing out upon soft turf. The grand view in- cludes : to the S.E., the large crater of Shimoi-take, then the summit of Oi-take, and beyond, but tower- ing far above them, the smoking crater and sharp peak of Taka- chiho; to the S., Shiraka-dake, Sakura-jima in the Bay of Kago- shima, and far away on the Pacific shore, Kaimon-dake. Onami-ike lies at the spectator's feet ; and on the N.W., at a much lower eleva- tion, is Shiratori-san, with two of its three lakes distinctly visible.

The names of these lakes are Murasaki, Byakushi, and Dok- Kwannon. Tlie top of Karakxminii- dake, 6,050 ft., forms the highest point of an extinct crater, at the bottom of which lies a mass of slimy moss and weeds, as if a lake had just dried up. This summit is marked by a large cairn sur« mounted by an iron trident. Look- ing beyond Shiratori-san, a most striking and extensive vieDv is pre- sented of the mountains of central Kyiishu, inclviding Aso-san and Sobo-san.

The way down leads through Yamanojo, one of the many mine- ral bath-places in which- this vol- canic neighbourhood abounds. The main road is joined between Enoyu and

Yokogawa (good accommoda* tion). An hour's ride hence through pretty country, partly beside the rushing waters of the Sendai-gawa, brings the traveller to

Kiirhio, lying in the centre of a large plain laid out in rice-fields.

xOSIiida, situated on the Sendai- gawa, affords good accommodation. Leaving this town by ferry across the river, the road leads for 1 hr. up a steep ascent to the top of the- ridge overlooking the plain water- ed by the Sendairgawa, also called the Masaki-gawa in its upper course. The view from this point is superb ; beyond the river lies Yoshida, with the Kirishima- group towering up behind ; slight- ly to the 1. is Shiratori-san; in the background, beyond an open- ing in the hills through which the Sendai-gawa flows, is Sakura- jima ; and turning round, there is a fine prospect of some of the moun- tains of northern Kyiishii. From this point the path moves along high ground through a wood for 2A ri until it reaches a tea-house, beyond which another pathjbranches off in the direction of Okaba, whence there is a good jinrikisha road to

Hitoyoslii (imis, Togura-ya„

Boute 61. — To the Goto IslandSf Tsmhrna, etc.

411

Matsuri-tei), a thriving town, for- merly the s^at of a Daimyo, the ruins of whose castle still i*emain. On the opposite side of the river ia Mukaimachi, where boats may be engaged for the voyage of 40 m. down the Knmagawa, celebrated for its Ba^pids, most of which occur during the la«t 25 miles. Under (Ordinary circumstances the voyage 'will occupy about 6 hrs. Should any difficulty be experienced in obtaining boats at Mukaimachi, tbe best plan is to push on to Tauge, about 4 H down the valley, ^wbere also boats may be hired. (For further details see p. 404.)

I^om Yatsushiro onwards the road lies across the level plain of Higo.

Kumamoto (see p. 401).

ROUTE 61.

!Fbom Nagasaki to thb Goto Is- I.ANDS AND Tsushima ; to Fusan AND Gensan in Korea, and to Vladivostock in Sibebia.

A bi-monthly service is main- tained by the tine steamers of the Nippon Yusen Kwaisha to Vladivo- stock, affording travellers an op- portunity of visiting such outlying parts of Japan as the Goto Islands and Tsushima, besides the Korean porta and the chief naval station of Kussia in the Far East. The steamers leaving Shanghai via Che- foo and Chemulpo connect at Na- gasaki with those from Kobe, which latter stay for 2 days at Nagasaki. The round trip from Kobe to Vla- divostock occupies 24 days; from Nagasaki, 17 days. Travellers whose time is limited can go from Nagasaki to Fusan (pronounced Pusan by the Koreans), where a

stay of 3 days may be employed in shooting, fishing, and visiting the old Korean city which is within easy reach of the Japanese Settlement, and then returning to Nagasaki by one of the Nippon Yusen Kwai- sha's steamers. Those desirous of having more time at Nag^asaki can remain there for 24 hrs. long- er, take passage by the Tientsin steamer vik the Goto Islands and Tsushima, and be landed at Fusan in time to proceed to Vladivostock or return tK> Nagasaki as desired. The traveller wishing to proceed to Vladivostock must obtain a pass- port from his consul, such passport to be vised by the Bujssian consul. This latter formality is essential.

Fiikne (In?i, Shiozuka-ya), capi tal of the island of the same name the largest of the Goto group, is about 50 m. distant from Naga- saki. The steamer stays here 6 hrs., affording ample time to see the remains of the old Daimyo's castle and the garden which must have been at one time very beauti- ful. Near the town are some strik- ing dome-shaped hills — extinct vol- canoes now cultivated from base to summit, and their craters filled with shrubs and rank vegetation. Deer and other game abound on this and the other islands of the group ; trout also are plentiful in tne mountain streams.

Throujrh the untiring efforts of the Roman Catholic missionarieB, workinj? in a field well-sown by their predecessors in the 16th and 17th ceutnrie*, the population of the Goto Islands consists largely of Christians.

Iziigalinra (Inn, Yoshida-ya), the capital of Tsushima, about 100 m. distant from Fukue, is charmingly situated in a valley surrounded by wooded hills, some of which are about 1,200 feet high. Tsushi- ma has an area of 262 £q. miles, and is equi-distant from the Japanese island of Iki and from Korea, being 48 m. from each. At high water it becomes a double is-

412

I^ute 61, — Fusan, Gensariy and Vladivostoch.

land, a deep sound dividing-it into two unequal parts. The southern portion is mountainous (2,100 ft. high), the northern much lower.

Tm-ihima means * the island of the port,* a name probably given from the fact of this place, with its fine harbours, having been from time immemorial the midway halting-place for junks plying l^etween .tapan and the mainland of Asia. Tsu- i^hima is mentioned in the Kqjiki as one of the Eight Great Islands of Japan, to which Izanagi and Izanami gave birth at the beginning of all things. In later days the Daimyos of Tsushima served as inter- mediaries in all international relations between Japan and Korea.

• The Russians endeavoured to obtain a footing in Tsushima in 1861, but were soon obliged to abandon the attempt ; and Tsushima remains, now as ever, part and parcel of the Japanese dominion, in- habited by a Japanese-speaking population only slightly mixed with Korean blood.

The principal product of the is" land is dried cuttle-fish {ilea), which is held in high esteem by the Japa- nese. The lovely scenery of Tsushima ajad its bracing air should make this spot a desirable resort for invalids.

Quitting Tsushima, a run of 65 m. lands the traveller in

Flisan (good accommodation with European food in the Japanese settlements, near the south-eastern tip of the Korean peninsula. The chansre which this short dis- tance effects in everything that meets the eye is very marked. The beautifully wooded hills and ravines of Tsushima are replaced by endless hills covered with coarse grass and dwarf pines, relieved here and there by huge outcrops of bare rock. The dirty white dress of the Koreans, their squalid dwellings, their rude man- ners and customs, all afford a strik- ing contrast to what we have left ))ehind. The harbour of Fusan, liowever, is pretty, and is sheltered

by a large island named by 'the early navigators * Deer Island,' on which deer and pheasants still abound. The Japanese Settlement of Fusan differs but little from an ordinary Japanese town ; it con- tains some creditable buildings, and is well-situated for purposes of trade. Its salubrious climate "will in time no doubt attract noiany visitors from. China during the summer months.

Oensan, Yneiisati, or Wonsan,

as it is called by the Japanese, Chinese and Koreans respec- tively, is about 300 miles N". of Fusan on the E. coast of Korea, and is situated in Broughton Bay, the inner part of which is weU-pro- tected by islands. The surrounding country resembles that around Fusan, but is more open near the sea, and the valleys are better cultivated. A high range of moun- tains extends from Gensaii, running paralled to the coast in a southerly direction for about 60 miles. In the bold and rugged fastnesses of these mountains, the tiger, leopard, bear, and wild-cat roam at will, the tiger being no uncommon visitor in the Japanese Settlement. The Japanese Hotel in Gensan may be recommended.

Taking our departure from Gen- san, a run of 370 m. to the N.E. brings us to

VJadlTostock (Hotels, Golden Horn ; Hotel Tessin, with Bussian cuisine) . The harbour is very pretty, as also is the town when seen from the water. Vladivostock abounds in charming walks and drives, and possesses excellent boating and deep-sea fishing. Game is plentiful, and a river close by is well-stocked with trout. The nights are always cool and mosquitoes unknown.

SECTION VIII.

THE ISLAND OF YEZO,

(Routes 62 — 68.

Route 62, — Hakodate and Neighbourhood.

41^

ROUTE 62.

Hakodate and Neighbourhood.

»

1. general observations on yezo. s. hakodate. 3. walks near hakodate : yachigashira, the peak, gortokaku.

1. — General Observations on

Y£zo.

No mention of Tezo is made in the earlier historical records, and it was probably unknown to the Japanese until the period when the last of the Ainos were expelled &om their ancient homes in the Main Island of Japan. Tradition asserts that Yoshitsone, a favourite hero of historical romance, found refuge here from the unnatural enmity of his elder brother ; and to this day his memory is revered by the simple aborigines. Later on Yezo was colonised and partly conquered by Takeda Nobuhiro, to whose descendant, Matsumae To- shihiro, the lordship of the island iras granted in 1604 by leyasu. JIatsumae's successors, whose seat of government was at the town of Matsumae, recently re-named Fu- kuyama, continued to rule over the "W. portion of the island down to 1868. From towards the end of the 18th century, the eastern half had, with the exception of a break from 1820 ^to 1854, been administered by officials of the Shogunate. After the overthrow of the Tokugawa family and the consequent media- tisation of the Daimyoa, Yezo was placed under a special department of the new government, entitled KaitaJcushi (Colonisation Commis- aion), created ad hoc, and hence- forth was regarded as apartof Japan proper. It received the designa- tion of Hokkaido, or * Circuit of the Northern Sea,' and was divid- ' ed into nine provinces, in order to assimilate it more closely to the rest ot the Empire. Yezo had been

formerly resorted to by the Nor- thern Japanese chiefly for the sake of the fisheries ; but attempts were now made to induce natives of other parts of Japan to migrate thither as agricultural settlers, and,, with the aid of a number of Ameri- cans, headed by General Capron,. public works were commenced on an extensive scale with the object of developing the resources of the island. After large sums had been expended without any adequate return, the more ambitious of these schemes were abandoned in 1881. The Kaitakushi was dis- solved, and the government of the island assimilated to the prefec- tural system of the rest of the Empire. The present capital is Sapporo, founded in 1870 ; the chief ports are Hakodate, Mororan,. Kushiro, and Nemuro on the S.E. coast, and Otaru,. not far from Sapporo, on the west. The interior is still for the most part covered with a primeval forest, rarely penetrated except by the aborigi- nal Ainos in quest of bears and deer.

The characteristics of Yjbzo, both natural and artificial, differ in many ways from those of the Main Island of Japan. The climate is colder, the country newer, the people less polished and more in- dependent. Few if any old temples or other historical monuments exist; but there are interesting remnants of the Aino race, which once peopled not Yezo only, but a great portion of Northern Japan. In many places, too, relics of the stone age, which for this island has only recently passed away, are to be met with. The Aino villages most easy of access from Hakodate are Yurappu and Osliamambe on the shore of Volcano Bay, and Ho- robetsu, Shiraoi, and Chitose on the way from Mororan to Sapporo.

Zoologically, Yezo belongs to a different sub-region from Japan proper, the deep Straits of Tsugaru

416

JiimU 62. — Hakodate and Xeighbourhaod.

forming what is called ' Blakiston's line/ from the name of Captain T. W. Blakiston, R.A., whoee re- searches are weD-known to 8eien(». On the Yezo side of this line there are no pheasants and no monkeys, while there is a species of grouse ; the bears are of a different species from those found on the Main Is- land. There are numeroos other divergences both in the fauna and flora, adding their testimony to the fact that Yczo and the Main Island, though so close to each other, have been separated during long geologi- cal ages.

The chief productions are her- rings, salmon, iicashi, sea-ears, and above all konibu (or JLo&u), a broad, thick, and very long species of sea- weed, a great favourite with the co<:)ks not only of Japan but of China, to which latter count i-y large quan- tities are exported.

There are comprtratively few good roads, the inns are often far apart, and jinrikishas and carriages used only in a few districts. Most journeys are performed in the saddle, horses being veiy niwierous, though not particularly good or cheap. In 1891 the usual cliarge waa from ] 2 to 20 sen a ri.

For six months Yezo is under snow and ice, the snow averaging about 2 ft. at Hako<late and from 6 ft. to 8 ft. in the N. and W, of the island. The lowest reading of the thermometer at Hakodate during the past ten years has been 5°.5 Fahrenheit. On the other hand, the second half of July and the first half of August are intensely hot, mosquitoes are very trouble- some, and there is an additional pest of gad-flies (ahu), whose at- tacks are so violent that it is necessary to keep lx)th face and hands well-protected when riding about the country. The best time for visiting Yezo is from the middle of May to the middle of July, and from the beginning of September to the beginning of November.

The aceneiyof the island, tiiough less striking than that of Japan proper, has a charm of its own and. a certain resemblance to 'Natth. Central Europe. There is good Ralmon fishing in several places in the month of Jnn& There is snipe and duck shooting in the autumn, with occasionally a bear for sb change — ^not the brown bear of the Main Island, but a larger species resembling the grizzly.

The Japanese inhabitants of Teso are a mixed community, beinfr chiefly settlers from one or other of the Northern provinces.. The consequence is that there is no special local dialect, but only a general use of various Northern patois. The traveller who is ac- quainted with the Japanese lan- guage as spoken at Tokyo, will do well to remember that t is constantly changed into t4, and is sometimes dropped altogether. Thus, when he hears matsu and mizu (almost ntdz)^ he must understand nuichi and mu^hi. AVt r*" (almost »* t') means nx ri, two n. In fact, the Northern people seem to try to speak without opening their mouths.

2.— Hakodate.

Hakodate.

Inns. — Kaku jo, Chigai - sangi, Kito.

Restaurants. — Goto-ken, in Sae> hiro-cho, where plain European food mav be obtainecl ; also at the Kyodo-kwan in the Public Gardens, where passable accommodation for the night may lu* had.

Stwes. — Kanemori, Ima-Ichi, Ya- ma-San, and Kane-Ni, all in the Main Street.

The town clusters at the foot of the bold rock, often compared to Gibraltar and known to for- eigners as Hakodate Head, whose summit locally called the Peak, is 1,157 feet high. Amo»g the largest buildings are the Japanese Club, Public HaU, and Naval

Walks in the Vicinity »

41 T

School. The number of foreign residents is small — some 15 families — and the town, notwithstanding its growing size and prosperity, is of little account as a port for foreign trade. At the west end of the town is a fort recently dismantled. In 1889 water-works were construct- ed, Hakodate being the second town in the Empire to have water supplied in this manner. The "water is convened in iron pipes from the river Akagawa, 7 m. distant among the mountains.

There is regular communication with Yokohama thi*ee times a week l>y the Nippon Yvisen Kwaisha Steamers. Occasionally steamers run down the West Coast to Akita and Niigata. There is also regular communication with the other ports of Yezo, namelj' Otaru which is the terminus for the Sapporo railway, Kushiro, Nemuro, etc., and also with Aomori on the Main Island.

The chief exports are edible sea- weed (komhu), b^che-de-mer, dried fish of various sorts, fish-manure {nishin no kasii)^ etc.

3. — Walks near Hakodate. ,

To the Public Gardens and Ya- chigashira. The Public Gardens, which are on the E. outskirts of the town, contain a small but interest- ing Museum (Hakuhutsvjo), Where may be seen numerous zoological specimens, including a large col- kction of Japanese birds presented by Mr. T. W. Blakiston, a collec- tion of shells brought together by Prof. Morse, specimens of Aino work and of the natural products of Yezo, etc., and lelics of the stone age. Yachigashira (often mispronounced Yatsugashira) is the name of a picturesque dell l3ring beyond the Public Gardens. Besides being a pleasant walk, it offers the attraction of a charm- ing restavirant called Asada-ya, situated in its own grounds and commanding a good view. The Shinto temple of Hachiman is also

prettily placed on the hill-side. The village on the near sea-shore which is seen from here is Shiri- sawabe, passing through which a walk of about ^ m. may be taken to a spot known to foreigners as * East Point/ just at the back of which there is a curious arched rock.

Up the Peak, which takes about i hr. from the end of the town. There are numerous narrow paths leading to the summit, whence an extensive view is obtained, em- bracing S. E. Shiokubi, distant 13 m. (Cape Blunt on the charts), and the volcano of Esan beyond, bearing E. by N., 221 ^^' l^yiiig nearly N. rise Yorozu-yama, 12 m., and next the volcano of Koma-ga^ take, 22 m. ; Nanae, Arikawa, etc., are across the bay. Also across the bay to the W. lies Moheji, a pretty village with a small river running through it, and a lighthouse stand- ing on a prominent rock, N. W. of the Peak. Distant 28 m. is the mountain called Nigorigawa-yama. Behind Moheji, distant 13 m., is Kai-asuka-dake, while to the S. W. rises Shiriuchi-dake, 22 m. The high land on the other side of the- straits is plainly visible, and on a clear day Iwaki-san to the S. W. of Aomori may be distinctly seen.

In the opposite direction, name- ly turning out of the main street to the right, a walk or ride may be taken past the gaol and barracks to a fort called Goi-ybkaku. This disused fort, erected in the latter days of the Tokugawa regime, is about 4 m. from the town. The moat affords excellent skating, tho ice being planed and swept; and when it is about 12 inches thick, it is cut and exported to the southern ports.

418

Tioiite 63. — Excursions from Hakodate.

ROUTE 68.

Excursions from Hakodate.

yunokawa. the lakes. ascent op koma-ga-take. esan.

1. — yunokawa.

Distance 1 ri 2% cho (4i m.) on foot, in jinrikisha, or omnibus, the latter starting several times daily during the summer. Ynnokawa is a charming place at which to spend a few days, owing to its pure sea air, its hot-springs, and the pretty walks in the neighbour- hood, especially one to Ynnosawa, less than a ri inland. The best inns are Senshin-kwan, Yosei- kwan, and Kakudai.

2.— -The Lakes.

Distance 1 ri^ckd (17 m.), passing through Nanae which ia 4 ri from Hakodate.

The favourite holiday resort in the neighbourhood of Hakodate is that known to foreigners as 'the Lakes.' The two principal lakes are named respectively Junsai-nu- ma (or Konuma), and Cnuma. They lie nearly 20 m. from Hakodate, and not far from the base of the volcano of Koma-ga-take. Their shores are covered with luxuriant ▼eget-ation> while the islets furnish objective points for those who may wish to go out boating. The lake fish can be taken with a worm, but will not rise to the fly. Konuma contains prawns of a very delicate flavour. Junsai-numa takes its name from a species of lily iJLimnan' ihemum peltatuw), which is con- sidered a delicacy and brought in great quantities to Hakodate. No place in Yezo affords so good a field to the entomologist, especially if lepidoptera be the object of his «earch.

The Lakes may be reached on horseback or by carriage. The usi^tl charge for horses was, in the «ammer of 1890, from $1.50 to 93,

and for native carriages about 95. The drive to the hamlet of Junsai- mura on the bordei*s of Junsai- numa, where it is best to stay, takes from 3^ to 4 hrs. The first portion of the road, which is also the high road to Mori, and whieh. was constructed by American engi- neers, lies along the flat that skirts the bay. The only halting-plaoe worthy of mention is at Nanae.

Originally Btarted by a Mr. Gartoor, to whom a large tract of ground had been granted in 1868 by the rebel govern- ment of Ye^, this experimental farm was purchased by the ^itaknshi, who im- ported and bred foreign cattle, sheep* horses, etc., raised European and Ameri- can farm-produce, vegetables, and flowers, and introduced the cultivation of foreign grapes for the purpose of making wine.

While the horses are resting, a walk may be taken through the gardens. Three miles beyond Na- nae the ground rises, and it be- comes necessary to alight from the carriage. Pretty glimpses of the Hakodate Peak and of the mountains of the mainland are occasionally obtained ; and from a little point just off the road close to the summit, the Lakes are first caught sight of. The summit of the hill is 940 ft. above the levd of the sea.

At Jnnsai-mnra there are twe inns, both on the 1. side of the road. The first one, situated im- mediately at the foot of the hill and kept by Miyazaki Jubei, is most patronised by the drivers ; but the semi-European one further ozi» known by the sign of Maru-san, ia the better of the two. Travellers will of course bring their own pro- visions; but fair Japanese food and also foreign potatoes can be ob- tained. Primitive boats for goine out on the lake and equally primi- tive fishing-gear can be hired. It is a 10 min. walk hence through a pretty wood to the shores of Lake 5numa. A good view of Koma-ga-take is obtained front

The Lakes. Koma-ga-take mid Emn.

419

Jnnsai-nunm. If the traveller has only one day at his disposal, the pleasantest plan is to start early in. the morning, lunch at the inn,- i;1ien stroll over to Onuma, and retam to Hakodate in the cool of ^th.e evening.

3. — Ascent of the Voloano Koma- ga-take.

Itinerary.

HAKODATE to :— Ri, Chd. M.

Togeshita 5 5 12^

Shikonoppe (a little

way on) — ^ —

YAKEYAMA 3 18 &h

Total 8 23 21

This is the mountain whose sharp peak (in reality only the higher «ide of the wall of the crater) .forms so conspicuous an object from Hakodate. It lies nearly due N. of the town, and is reached by i;be road mentioned in Excursion 2. The two trips should be com- bined, the night being spent at J'unsai-mura. Accommodation of an inferior quality may be procured a little further on, at Shikonoppe, and also at Yakeyama at the very "base of the moimtain. From Jun- sai-mura, the expedition can easily be made in 6 hrs., including stop- pages, and many will prefer to make it at night in order to see the sunrise from the summit. For this purpose the carriage brought from Hakodate should he kept, so as to drive on as far as Yakeyama, i hr. of uninteresting road. Here horses are mounted which, toge- ther with a guide, should be sent on ahead, and 1 hr. ride through a thick gprowth of underwood and of grasses that overtop the riders' heads, lead^ to the place where it is necessary fo dismount. It is another hour's walk over sand and volcanic detritus to the lip of the crater, which commands a fine

view of Volcano Bay on the one hand, and on the other of the Lakes, behind which Hakodate Bay and even the town and shipping can be distinguished. To the 1. towers the wall of rock forming what looks like a peak from most points of view. The ascent of it is not impossible, but has rarely heen attempted. Traces of vegetation are found up to the very summit* On the way up there is a little platform, said to be inaccessible,, which supports three curiously shaped stones popularly supposed to have been once the abode of a fahvlouB inonkey (ycLeri) . Beneath and in front of the spectator lies the crater. To the r. is seen' Yokotsu-dake, itself an old volcano, whose height is estimated at 3,800 ft. The last eruption of Koma-ga- take took place on the 22nd August, 1856, when all the neighbourhood of the present hamlet of Yakeyama (lit. 'burning mountain') is said to have been denuded of trees. Inside the crater a certain degree of activity is still displayed in the boiling pools; and care must be taken in treading on all circles or ridges of ground which rise slight- ly above the general level, as they are hollow and may give way. The descent to the place where the horses are waiting only occupies a few minutes. The height of Koma- ga-take is 3,86a ft. There is no water on the way up.

4.— The Volcano op Esan.

Itinerary.

HAKODATE to :—- Ri. Chd. M.

Yunokawa 1 29 -H

Oyase 3 6 7i

Toi 2 11 6f

Shirikishinai 2 14 5f

Nidanai 4 27 Hi

TODOHOKKE

(footof Esan).. 19 3

Total 15 23 38^

420

Route 64. — From Hakodate to Fnlmyama,

This constantly active volcano, between 1 ,900 ft. and 2,000 ft. high, is the first point of the Island of Yezo sighted on the voyage up from Yokohama. The journey thi- ther from Hakodate may be per- formed on horseback in one day ; but it is better to allow 3 days for the whole expedition there and back. If four are allowed, the following pleasant round trip may be made : — first to tlie Lakes and Koma-ga-take, and thence to Ka- kumi on the S. shore of Volcano Bay, where arrangements should at once be made for a boat to convey the part^' next day along the coast to Todohokke.

The coast is bold and afifords striking views, some water-falls which leap over rocky ledges into the sea being especially beau- tiful. At Todohokke where there is an inn of the usual country type, a guide should be procured to lead the party up the mountain, the summit of which will be reached after an hour's walk. The S. side of the crater-wall, by which the ascent is made, has been com- pletely blown away; the floor seethes with solfataras and springs of boiling water, and there are con- stant subterranean rumblings. The upper portion of the waU of the crater is of a bright yellow colour, and emits dense whitish fumes.

ROUTE 64.

From Hakodate to Fukuyama by Sea and back by Land.

Itinerary of Land Jowney.

FUKUYAMA to :— Ri. Cho. M.

Yoshioka 3 25 9

Fukushima 1 9 ^

Shiriuchi 7 17

Kikonai 2 24 6.^

Izumisawa 1 34 4^

Moheji 3 2 1\

Kami-iso 2 15 6

HAKODATE 3 4 7.\

Total 25 5 61i

The quickest way to Fukuyama is by steamer, tlie passage occupying- from 6 to 7 hrs. The other way is overland, a distance of 25 ri, which can be accomplished on horseback in 2 days. It is pleasantest to combine both routes, going one way and returning the other. If the land journey be done from Hakodate, there is the advantage of being able to make sure of gootl horses, which by special arrange^ ment may be taken through all the way. On the other hand, by taking the steamer from Hakodate and returning by land, the risk of being steamer-bound at Fukuyama is avoided. Walking is not to be recommended, as . there are num- bers of streams to ford.

Fiikiiyamai* formerly called Ma- tsvmae. *(I«?i,Tanaka-ya; passengers arriving by the steamer can put up at the funa'y(vdOy or ' boat-house,' known by the name of Maini'hanr which is pleasanter than the inn ; those who intend to stay more than one day arc recommended to ari*ange for accommodation at the Sato-ya, a clean, quiet, and prettily situated restaurant, standing on the hill behind the ^ town, not far from the castle and commanding a good view of the sea). Fukuyama is situated on the coast to the S.W.

Ftikiiyama bach to Hakodate,

421

of Hakodate. The population in 1890 -was about 10,000, showing a decrease of no less than 40 per cent since 1868.

As long as the city was the seat of the lords of Matsninae, almost all tlie trade of Yezo passed tliroxigh it, and travellers were obliged to come here to obtain passports before proceeding to otlier points. But a fatal blow "was dealt to its prosperity by the destruction of property which ac- companied the civil war in 1869, and by tbe retirement of the DaimyS to *r6kyo when the feudal system was broken up. It has been further injured by the growth of Hakodate . — ^f or Fukuyama possesses no har- bour, but only an open roadstead. As usual in provincial Jai)anese capitals, the castle was built on an eminence overlooking the town. All that now remains, besides the three-storied tower, is a portion of the apartments f oi*merly occupied by the Daimyo himself. In 1880 the greater part of the area former- ly occupied by the castle was con- verted into a small Public Garden. Outside of this garden, as well as of the former precincts of the castle, is a cluster of Buddhist temples, the remnant of a larger number which existed up to 1869. These were the finest temples in Yezo. Only two are now worth visiting, viz. Kozenji belonging to the Jodo sect, and Ryu-un-in be- longing to the Soto sect, which latter has been the leading de- nomination in this district. Ko- zenji, which was founded in 1533, was the burial-place of the Dai- myos' consorts, and is remarkably handsome. In the court in front of it stands a large stone image, formerly the principal object of worship in a temple now destroyed, which was called after it Sekibu- tsu-do, i.e., * the Hall of the Stone Buddha.' Eyu-un-in, which was founded in 1625, has a curious

kakemono of 'Shaka Issuing from the Mountains.'

The return journey on horseback is a pleasant one. The traveller should take his own saddle, though he may generally count on being able to borrow one at Fukuyama for the through journey. His ser- vant will mount the baggaare-horse, and the guide is also mounted. Horses may be taken through the whole way ; but there is no diffi- culty in obtaining relays at Shiri- uchi, where a halt should be made for the night. Leaving Fukuyama, the road passes through the ham- lets of Nemori and Osawa, the islet of Benten-jima and the island of Kojima being seen to the r., while on the 1. are views, not only of Yezo, but of the coast of the Main Island. At the hamlet of Araya the road strikes inland among the beautifully green though treeless hills, and the road soon begins to ascend. From the summit a pretty view of Kojima is obtained.

The steep descent to the hamlet of Eehige is called the Toshioka- toge — YosMoTca being the general name for the surrounding hamlets — and it is necessary to dismount. The bottom of this hill is 1 H from Fukuyama. Thence the path lies alon^ the beach, commanding good views of the sea and distant shores. Cape Yoshimo standing out con- spicuously to the 1. It is a short 2 ri to the vill. of

Fiikiisliiina. On leaving this place, the path again strikes inland for many miles among the hills, wliich are here wooded ; but there is a beautiful glimpse of the sea with Iwaki-san in Nambu from the top of the Fukushima- toge, la hr. beyond Fukushima. For the most part the way lies over a sort of upland broken by gullies, the streams flowing through which have almost all to be forded. The largest of these streams is that named (or nicknamed) Ichi-no- Watari-gawa, i.e., * the River of the

422

Route 65. — From Hakodate to Esashi.

First Crossing/ To the r. is oc- casionally seen Sengen-dake, the highest motintain in this Yicinitj. At

Sbiriiiclii, regular cultivation be- gins and the rc^ improves. Most of the rest of the way to Hakodate is flat, and runs aJong the sea- shore. Accommodation is procur- able at the various villages through which the road leadsl After passing through Kikonai, the Treaty Limit of the port of Hakodate is reach- ed. A portion of the way lying through the jurisdiction of the vill. of Moheji is admired for the boldness of its scenery. Bluff sand- stone cliffs rise abruptly from the sea, and at a little distance it looks as if there would not be room to pass between the rocks and the water. The path joins the main road leading to Mori 1 ri out of Hakodate.

EOUTE 65.

From Hakodate to Esashi.

Itinerary.

HAKODATE to .— Ri. Chd. M.

Kameda 1 — 2^

Ono 4 — 9|

Uzura 10 — 24^

Gamushi 2 — 5

ESASHI 3 — 7i

Total 20 — 48f

The above distances are approx- imate.

Starting from Hakodate and passing through Kameda on the road to Nanae, the traveller turns off to the 1. along a new road to

Ono (Inns, Kakudai, Shinagawa). At the end of the village the roads turns abruptly off to the 1., and gradually ascends for a distance of 4 ri till the top of the pass is |

gained. From the summit a good view of Tengu-take, marked by- three fir-trees, is obtained, and the ride to the village of Uzura is one of the prettiest in Tezo. The road winds in and out between steep cliffs above a foaming river, while the bold rocks and mountains recall the scenery of British Columbia. At

Uzura, poor accommodation is provided at the house of Nagao Jutaro, but it is better to push on to Esashi.

[From Uzura a path diverges to the 1. across a river to the village of Tate, 2^ ri distant, once the residence of the Dai- myo of Matsumae. The castle was destroyed in the rebellion of 1868, but portions of the walls can still be traced. The land in this district is among the most fertile in Yezo.]

Gamashi (Inn by Oyama Ta- sato).

Esashi (Inns, Yamabuki Seizo, Kakui) is an old-fashioned town of 14,000 inhabitants, with a harbour unfortunately too much exposed. Pine views can be obtained from the high cliffs behind a Buddhist temple. Esashi boasts a light- house, a hospital, and a telegraph and other government offices. Koads are in course of construction from this place northwards to Shioji and southwards to Fukuyama.

Boitte 66. — To Sapporo and Volcano Bay,

42S

ROUTE 66.

From Hakodate to Sappobo and Volcano Bay.

voyage to otaru. [yoichi and I wanai ; ACROSS country to mom-

BETSU ON VOLCANO BAY.] SAP- PORO. EXCURSIONS FROM SAP- PORO : PORONAI, HOKKYO, LAKE CHITOSE. OVERLAND TO MORORAN. [VOLCANO BAY.] MORI.

Tliis trip includes some of the best portions of Yezo, and will show the traveller within the limits of a week or 10 days as fair a specimen of the island — its scenery, its modern improvements, and aborigi- nal Ainos — as it is possible to com- press witliin so short a time.

A fairly good steamer of the Nippon Yusen Kwaisha leaves Hakodate for Otaru every fourth day, the passage taking 22 hrs. in fine weather. Occasionally an out- side steamer may be availed of. While passing through the Tsu- garu Straits, where the main cur- rent always runs towards the E., the steamer hugs the cliff-bound coast of southern Yezo. Pour hrs. from Hakodate it passes the castle- town of Fukuyama, formerly called Matsumae, for centuries the resi- dence of the Daimyos by whom the island was ruled. Ahead are seen the volcanic islands of Oshima and Kojima, and to the S., on thi^ mainkind of Japan, Iwaki-san, often called the Northern Fuji from its beautiful logarithmic cur- vatm*e. If the steamer leaves Hakodate at midday (the usual hour of sailing), it will pass the island of Okushiri before night- fall, and by morning will have rounded the high cliffs of Shakotan, and have passed * Sail Rock ' and the shrine on the cliff to which junks make obeisance by lowering their sail. From this point it is 35 m. to

Otarn, properly Otariinai (Inns, Etchn-ya^ Kito). This Aino name

means 'the stream (nai) of the sandy (ota) road (ru).' The town is now, however, entirely Japanese. Next to Hakodate it is the largest and most bustling on the coast, the chief industry of its inhabitants being herring - fishing ( nishin ). The only evidences of the former Aino occupation of the place are the flint implements and fragments of pottery imbedded in the soil, and possibly some scribbling on a rock in a suburb called Temiya.

This rock has terribly perplexed the learned. To begin with, are the inscrip- tions really inscriptions at all ? If so, are they of Aino origin — but then it is almost certain that the Ainos never knew aught of writing? Or are they not rather cognate to * Bill Stumps liis mark * ? A. few years ago the authorities caused a shed to be erected over the rock in ques- tion, but not till the weather liad exercised so disintegrating an influence on it that there is now little left to argue about.

[There is a fair road from Otaru W. along the coast to Tolclli, 5 ri 20 cho, whence a very pretty mountain road leads across the neck of the penin- sula to IwaDai, 11 W 30 cho. From Iwanai a very rough road leads right round the S. W. of the island to Hakodate. It is also possible, from a point between Yoichi and Iwanai, and about 3 ri from the latter place, to strike off in a S.E. direction across country to Moiiibetsn on Volcano Bay. The distance is 14 ri, and takes 2 days, tke first night being spent at a farm-house at Sliiribetsn. The trail is extremely rough, following water-courses, and passing through bamboo-grass and weeds often as high as the traveller's head as he sits on horseback. Mount Shiribetsu is a beautiful isolated cone from 6,000 ft. to 7,000 ft. high. Lake Usu, likewise, along whose shore the path runs for several ri, is very pretty. Mombetsu has a beet -root

424

Route 66. — To Sapporo and Volcano Bay.

sugar factory, capable of turn- ing out 75 tons per diem.]

Hokkaido Railway.

Distance

Names

from

of

Otani.

Stations.

OTARU (Temija).

2 m.

Sumiyoshi.

6

Asari.

11

Zenibako.

IG

Kanismwa.

20

Kotoni. '

22

SAPPORO.

26

Shiraishi.

29

Atsuhetsu.

34

Nopporo.

36

El)etsu.

41

HOROMUI (Poronai).

48

Iwamizawa.

54*

NAIFUTO.

The railway journey from Otaru to Sapporo occupies about 2 brs. The rolling stock is American, and the line is said to have been built more cheaply than any other in the world. The scenery is very pretty for the first few miles, the railway being hemmed in between the sea and bold overhanging rocks, and affording beautiful views of the coast. The plain surrounding the mouth of the river Ishikari is then crossed, and the rest of the way runs across flat, marshy coun- try, covered with trees and tall rank weeds, to Sapporo.

Sapporo {Hotel, *Hohei-kwan, originally intended for an Imperial Palace; Japanese innsy Yoshida, Tamagata-ya, Kyoka-ro), the capi- tal of the island, did not grow up naturally like Majtsumae in old times and Hakodate in more re- cent days, in obedience to the requirements of trade. It was created by official fiat during the present reign, and depends for its prosperity chiefly on the public institutions established there, nota- bly on the Agricultiu'al College which is the last remnant of the Xaitakushi, or Colonisation Com- mission, and on the Military Colony

(Tonden-hei) in the neighbouring country. The Prefecture, a build- ing in European style, will vie with anything of the kind in Tokyo. There are also saw-mills and flour- mills, sugar, hemp, and flax fac- tories, a brcTvery, an estabhsh- ment for making wine, and a museum well-worth visiting, be- sides small theatres and other places of amusement. The salmon and trout fishing for which Sap- poro was formerly noted has been a good deal spoilt by the estabUsh- ment of the mills, but there is snipe and duck shooting in the autumn. The pleiasantest walks near Sap- poro are : —

1. To the horse-farm of Mako- nomm.

2. To the top of Masuyama, whence there is a fine view of the^ plain surrounding Sapporo and of the River Ishikari, the longest in Japan .

The best longer excursions are:—

3. On foot or by jinrikislia to Kariki, distant about 1 iH. There take a dug-out canoe, and drift down to Ehetsu, spinning or fly- fishing on the way. Return in the afternoon by train.

4. By train to Poronai, to see the coal-mines and the convict prison. The convicts are em- ployed in the mines, the daily output being from 600 to 1,000 tons. Those desirous of visiting the site of the much-talked of new capital — Hohky 6— mory reach it by carri- ase, 23 ri to Kamikawa on the river Ishikari, 140 m. from its mouth.

5. On horseback or by jinrikisha or carriage past the Makonomai horse farm, through Ishiyamaon the river Toyohira to Jodankr where there are hot-springs and good fishing. Distance 6 H.

6. To a lake 7 W from Chitose, the last ri by Aino boat up a river which threads the primeval forest. There is a beautiful waterfall on the way, unfortunately much hidden by the denseness of the vesretation. The

Sapporo to Mororan. Volcano Bay.

421^

lake itself is completely surrounded by liigh wooded hills except on one side, Tvhere there is a bare volcano. Th.e flies are a terrible scourge.

From Sapporo to Mororan on Volcano Bay is a 2 days' journey in a four-wheeled covered waggon, holding two persons and costing (in. 1890) $4 per head. A relay may be obtained at Tomakomai, where the flrst night should be spent.

Itinerary.

SAPPOEO to :— Ri. Cho. M.

Shimamappu 5 28 14

Chitose 3 34 9^

Tomakomai 6 34 17

Shiraoi 5 22 13f

Horobetsu 6 30 i6f

Mororan 5 1 12^

Mori (by steamer

in 3 hrs.) — — —

Nanae 7 10 I7f

HAKODATE 4 8 lOi

Total 46 23 111^

The greater part of the excellent road from Sapporo to the coast is flat and nearly straight, lying through a dense forest completely shutting out the view on either side. During the summer, this region is frequented by the gad-fly and the locust, the former of which is a per- fect plague to the traveller, while the horses are tormented by ticks. Just before

Tomakomai {Inn, Kane-su), the road emerges on the Pacific shore, ajid turns to the r.

£The road to the 1. leads along the coast to Yubutsu and Saru- f uto, inland from which latter place is Piratori, the largest settlement of the southern Ainos. A good description of this interesting village and of the way there is given in Miss Bird's 'Unbeaten Tracks in Japan,' Vol. II.] From here onwards there are occa- sional hills, and the scenery im- proves, especially between Shiraoi

and Horobetsu, where the top of an ascent commands a charming view of the secluded bay of Bam- bokke. The wealth of lilies of the valley and other wild-flowers in May and June is astonishing. 'A few miles inland is Nohot'ihetsut cele- brated for its natural hot baths.

Horobetsu (Inn, Suzuki) is a mixed Japanese and Aino village, the centre for many years past of the Christianising and civilising endeavours of the Rev. John Batchelor, of the Church Mis- sionary Society.

Mororan (Inns, Maru-ichi, TJba- go) is beautifully situated on a landlocked bay, but is shut out from all view of the neighbouring volcanoes. It is noted for a large sea-shell — the hotate-gai, or Peden yessoensis. Behind the hill at the back lies an Aino village.

[The traveller who does not mind bad roads and very poor ac- commodation may, instead of the steamer, take the coast route round the head of Volcano Bay. The track lies mostly along the shore, except where in two places it climbs to a consider- able height among the moun- tains. Several Aino villages ex- ist in this secluded region. The 1)est are at Usu and at Abuta. An account of this route will be found in Miss Bird's already quoted book of travels. The itinerary is as follows : —

SHIN-MOROEAN to :—

Ri. Cho. M. Kyu-Mororan 6 22 16i Mombetsu... 3 13 8^:

Abuta 4 7 lOi

Rebunge 4 4 10

Oshamambe.. 6 33 17-

Kuroiwa 4 31 llf

Yamakushinai 4 10 lOi

• Otoshibe 2 24 6^

MORI 4 6 lOi

Total.... 41 6 lOOi]

486

Route €/• — Tlie S*E. Coast and Southern Kuriles,

The distance accomplished by steamer from Mororan to Mori across the month of Volcano Bay is aboat 22 miles. The anchorage at

Hori (Inns, Yamaka, Kawa-jii) is not good. Nevertheless the town is fairly prosperous. The return hence to Hakodate is via the Lakes (see p. 418).

ROUTE 67.

The South-East Coast and the Southern Kuriles.

During the summer and autiunn, the Nippon Yusen Kwaisha runs steamers up the S.E. Coast of Yezo, and there are also steamers be- longing to smaller companies. Oc- casional steam communication is kept up with Kunashiri and Iterup. Continual fogs are exi)erienced. Those who prefer to go by land can do so ; but they are warned that there is little of interest to com- pensate for the hardships on the way. In many places it is a scramble over rocks by the sea- shore, and at others over steep mountains. There are also six or seven large rivers to cross, which after rain are often impassable for several days. The itinerary be- tween Hakodate and Tomakomai has already been given on p. 425. From Tomakomai on to Nemuro is a distance of 74 W, or 180 m^ The chief places visited, whether the journey be made by land or by sea, are the ports of Kushiro, Akke- shi, and Nemiu:o.

Knshiro (Inn, Eanekichi) is a growing town, whose chief exports are coal and sulphur. Fine views are obtained of 0-Akan and Me- Akan, two high mountains to the N. At no other place in Yezo are so many relics of the stone age to be found as at Kushiro. The hills in the neighbourhood are covered with hundreds of dwellings, which are attributed by some investi- gators to the Koropok-guni, a race beheved by them to have inhabited Yezo before the Ainos. Several camps — or what have been con- sidered such — are seen on the crests of the hills, as also two or three well-formed earthen forts, one called Moshiriya near the river, and the others at Lake Harutori^ about 2 m. from the town, where likewise is a modem Aino village. Coal has recently been discovered at the head of the lake.

Akkeshi (Inn, Chiigenji) is npted for its oysters, there being whole reefs entirely composed of these creatures. An oyster-tinning estab-

' lishiiient on the American plan has existed here for many years

' past.

; The coast between Akkeshi and ' Nomuro is remarkable for the per- ; sistently tabular aspect of the main- land and of the islands near it. Of I the latter, the chief are : 1. Yururi, V. Takashima and Ko-Takashima, mere low ledges of rock, in spite of their names which signify * Lofty Island,' and ' Small Lofty Island/ The high far-off mountains to the 1. are Me-Akan, 0-Akan, the snow- sprinkled ranges of Menashi-yama and d-Menashi-yama, and ahead Rausu-zan and Chacha-nobori in the island of Kunashiri.

Neiniiro (Inn by Suzuki Zen- suke) is a thriving town of about 2,000 houses, and possesses an Agricultural College. The har- bour is good, but freezes over com- pletely in winter, the ice extend- ing as far as the eye can reach.

Route OS.'^From Kmhiro to the N.E. Coast.

427

The Kubile Islands.

The Kuriles, of which Knna- shlii and Iteriip are thp two Bouthenuuost, derive their name from the Bussian word kurity, ' to smoke/ in allusion to the numerous volcanoes which they contain. The Japanese name is Chishima^ or • the Thousand Isles.* From No- tsu-no>saki, the headland stretch- ing N. W. of Nemuro, to Tomari, the nearest port in Kunashiri, is a distance of 3 ri. From Nemuro it takes some 5 hrs. to reach Batwii- zarif prettily situated on the sea- shore, 3i m. to the £. of the solfataras, to work which is the object of having an establishment in this place. This part of the island is thickly wooded with coni- fers of various species, while ferns and flowering-plants form the undergrowth. Bears abound. From a clearing in the forest we get a beautiful glimpse of the singularly shaped Chacha-nohori, a cone with- in a cone, the inner and higher of the two being — so the natives say — surrounded by a lake, while away to the N. £. the sulphur is seen boihng up at four distinct spots on the flaiik of Bausu-zan. Another solf atara is said to exist on the other side of the mountain. There are also several hot-springs and a hot stream. One of these springs bub- bles up on the beach, near the factory, by whose inhabitants it is used as a bath.

The chief port of Iterup is Sha- na, on the N. side of the island. A road leads from Shana to another town at the N. E. extremity, about 65 m. distant, and there is also a road in the opposite direction for 50 m. Horses can be obtained for the greater part of these journeys. The interior of the island is covered with a forest, which can only be penetrated by following up the watercourses. The streams are aUve with salmon from August to December, and bears are plentiful.

ROUTE 68. .

Feom Kushiho to Abashibi on the North-East Coast and Round TO Nemuro. •

Itinerary (approximate).

KUSHIROto:— Ri. M.

Tore 7 17

Shibetcha 6 14f

Iwo-san 10 24^

Yamabetsu — —

Abashiri 19 46^

Shari 9 22

Wakkani 11 26f

Chirai-watari 9 22

Shibetsu.... 7 17

Betsukai 8 19i

NEMUEO 7 17

Total 93 227

A new road running by the side of the river has been made from Kushiro to Shibetcha ; but if the traveller prefer, he can take pas- sage in the steam launch which leaves daily. There is a fine lake, 6 ri in circumference, near Toro, (Inn by Matsumoto), a village con- sisting of two or three Japanese houses and some twenty Aino huts. At Shibetcha (Inns, Daihei, Yo- kota) there is a convict settlement of about ],200 prisoners, and a steam factory for refining sulphur. Good salmon and salmon trout fishing may be had here from July to October. A railway 24 m. long connects Shibetcha with Two -sail, * sulphur mountain.* It is intended for the carriage of svilphur from the mountain, but passengers may also get a li^t.

[Not following the railway track, but turning aside for a dis- tance of ^ ri, the traveller reaches the hot-springs of SeisMTcaga, where good accom- modation may be had at Moto- yama's house. Four ri fur-

428

Route 68.— The North-East Coast.

ther on is another lake, called Kucharo, 12 ri in circumfer- ence^ and having in the centre some islands containing hot- springs. The lake is deep and clear, and affords good fishing.]

At the railway terminus of Iwo- san is an inn by Yakeyama. Splendid views are obtained of 0-Akan, Me-Akan, and the sur- rounding country. The sulphur is of first-rate quality, and is ex- ported in large quantities to America. From Iwo-san, the travel- ler descends to Yamabetsu on the sea-shore. There being no accom- modation here, it is best to hurry on to

Abashiri {Inn, Ishiyama). Eelics

of the ancient pit-dwellers may be seen on the hills.

From here on to Shari the road skirts the coast, then striking inland over the mountains, and coming out again by the sea at Shibetsu, whence it once mare follows the coast to Nemuro. Withi the exception of Shibetsu and Betsukai, none of the places passed through offer better accommoda- tion than Aino huts.

s

Those desirous of exploring the N.E. coast of Yezo can do so by turning to the 1. at Abashiri, whence a road leads the whole way to Soya, a distance of 71 ri (173 m.), near the N. extremity of the is- land. This journey, however, offers little or no interest.

APPENDIX.

I. — From Inawashibo to Yone^awa v%& Bandai-san and the • HiBABA Pass.

Hvti^TCLiru

INAWASHIRO to:— * Ri. Cho. M,

Tamanaka Onsen hut 3 — 7i

Nagamine 3 — 7i

Hibara 2 6 5^

Top of Pass 2 — 6

Tsunagi 1 20 3f

YONEZAWA 4 — »t

Total 15 26 38i

Time, 2 days.

Jinrikislias can only be taken for 1^ ri in the Yonezawa plain. From Inawashiro to Hibara, luggage must be sent round vi& Shiokawa and Oshio, — to Shiokawa 6 n by jinrikisha or packhorse, from Shiokawa to Hibara 5a ri by packhorse only, in all 11^ ri.

For the ascent of Bandai-san, see p. 186. From the hut near the spot where the view of the devastated district is first seen, it is possible either to continue the circuit of the Bandai group over the site of the cataclysm, or to proceed north over the same to Hibara which lies at the further end of the newly formed lake. The way leads down for nearly 2 n to the shore of the lake, then ascends 1. a hill on the top of which the waste is suddenly abandoned for a grand old forest, then down and by the lake, with the skeletons of the trees still sticking up out of the water, to Nagamine, 1 ri more. Here a boat can at times be got to Hi- bara; otherwise 1 ri by the shore and 1 ri 6 cho over the Kurobe-toge to

Hibara (Inn by Ota), a village left half in, half out of the water by the formation of the new lake. Streets lead into the lake, and trees —some yet alive — stick up from out of it.

Across the lake, 15 cho on the way up the Hibara-toge, are the build- ings of the Silver Keduction Works -, thence 1 ri to a tea-house, and 20 cho

4d0 Appendix.

more to the top of the pass through superb fo)^st and by a good path. From the summit there is a view of hills running off into the Yonezawa plain. Thence 10 chd down to a tea-house, and 1 ri 10 chd more to

Tsanagri (Inn, Aizuya), a mountain village. From here the way leads over two low passes, from the first of which there is a fine view of Asahi-dake and Gwassan.

Tonezawa (see p. 194).

II. — Fboh YomszAWA to Murakami vid Miomote. This route, which is recommended to mountaineers only, takes 3 days.

Itinerary.

TOKEZAWAto:— RL Chd. M.

Eomatsu 3 — 7i

Tenoko 3 9 8

Oguni 9 — 22

Funato 2 — 5

Arazawa 2 18 6

Miomote . 3 — 7i

Iwakuzure * 5 — 12^

MURAKAMI 5 — 12i

Total 32 27 80

Jinrikishas can be taken as far as Funato, and again from 1 ri below Iwakuzure to Murakami. The road lies first along the edge of the plain, then over a slight "ascent, and up the valley of the Shirakawa to Tenoko (Inns, Yamagata-ya and another 1 ri beyond the village, kept by a man named li). TIk; old road over the Sakura-toge is no" longer used. The new road leads over the Uzu-toge and then down the valley, and eventually through the fine gorge of the Uzugawa. It is in places almost tunnelled out of the cliffs above the stream. Snow lies in patches here till the middle of June. lide-san is well seen to the 1. before reaching

Oguni (Inn by Nozawa Yohei). Thence a very bad jinrikisha road and a ferry over the Arakawa lead to

Fnnato (accommodation at the house of the headman of the vUlage).

Arazaif'a or Ito (accommodation at the house of the headman).

From here a road direct to Murakami branches off 1. The path to Miomote — a mountain trail — keeps on up the valley, climbs a steep ridge, and crosses a long pass whose successive dips bear different names. Asahi-dake is seen to the r. After 2 ri the path descends to a stream which has to be forded ; thence 1 ri more takes the traveller to the Mio- mote-gawa. This too may have to be foMed j but usually a boat can be

A'pjimdix, 431

found by contmning up the bank to a pool at the entrance of the gorge.

On a little level space opposite stands

Miomote (accommodation at the temple), surrounded by hills

entirely wooded except for ledges of rock. A picturesque walk of 10-

cho may be taken up through the gorge of the Miomote-gawa and back.

The trail to Iwakuzure, whict is very rough — it is 5 ri and takes 7

Kours — ^le^ds straight up the Azuki-zaka opposite to a spring called

Mwwki 8himizUf or Magnolia Spring, and thence over steep slopes and '

lidges across a jumble of heavily wooded hills. About 1 ri from Miomote,

"by tl\0 side of the path, stands a shrine — a tiny shed over a stick with

gohei — dedicated to the local mountain god, Dorokujin.

As the porters pass, each lays a leaf on the shrine, and offers up a prayer for safe keeping. It seems that Dorokujin was one day passing this way to the Magnolia Spring, when he met, at the ravine called Ozawa, a beautiful maiden who was none other than the goddess Benten. She consented to wed him, and then left, promising to return j but as she never came back, he still waits and wanders over the mountains, looking after the safety of wayfarers.

After a distant peep at the sea from the Toyaba-toge, the path de- scends to Ozawa, 2i ri, which is merely a stream that, by choosing one's spot, can be crossed from rock to rock ; then it rises over the Ozawa-toge, and descends again to the Miomote-gawa, whose steep bank it follows 1. high up, passing a second shrine to Dorokujin at a vantage point com- manding a bend in the river. It is 2^ ri more to

Iwakaznre, where one may, by walking on 1 ri further, get jin- rikishas to

Marakaiui (Inn, * Mura-ya). A still better plan is to hire a boat direct, and drop down the rapids to the town, 5 ri, in about 2 hours.

"III. — From Murakami to Tsuru-ga-oka via the Agari-toge.

Itinerary.

MURAKAMI' to :— Bi. Cho. M.

Nakamura (by the Shindo) . . . . 8 31 21^

Arakawa 18 1^

Nakatsugi 1 — 2^

Yamakumada 2 18 6

Top of Agari-toge 2 10 5^

Oizumi-mura 1 26 4

Higashi Odori 18 l^-

Tazawa 2 15 6

Hongo • . 2 28 6f

TSUEU-aA-OKA . . . . . . 5 — 12i

Total 27 20 671^

This is a very rough 3 days* journey, recommended to none but mountaineers. Streams have occasionally to be forded. The only

482 Appendix,

acoommodation is at the house of the headman of each village. JinriH- shas are practicable as far as Nakamura, and again from Higashi Odori, but must not be counted on.

IV. — From Tsubtj-ga-oka to Sendai viA the Eokujubi-gob and the

SEKIYAHA-TOaE, 3 DaYS.

Itinerary,

TSUEU-GA-OKA to:— Bi. Cho, 3f.

Matsune 2 33 7

Top of Jino-toge 1 — 2J

Churenji Onsen 8 ^

Oami 1 — 2i

Tamugi 1 — 2|

Sasagoya (hut) 3 — 7i

Top of Kokujuri-goe . . x . . . 1 18 3f

Shizu 2 — 5

Hondoji 3 — U

Mizusawa 1 20 3f

Kaishio 1 17 3i

Sekiyama 8 — 19i

Sakunami , 5 34 14|r

Ayako . 4 — 9f

SENDAI 3 — 7i

Total. 39 22 96f

This mountainous route affords many delightful views.

V. — Eeferring to Dr. Naumann's statement concerning the non- existence of Yudono-san, quoted on p. 205, Mr. Percival Lowell informs us that, though not itself a mountain, it is a holloiu on the shoulder of a mountain called XJmba-ga-take. This spot is considered sacred, and is a goal of pilgrims. Those who affirm and those who deny the existence of the sacred mountain would therefore seem to be equally in the right, as the question is one which turns on the definition of the word ' moun- tain,' or rather of the Japanese word san.

^

GLOSSARY OF JAPANESE WORDS.

JLij a species of trout — ^the Salmo

aUivalis. JLir-no-ma, see p. 23. A.ha-hara, a fresh-water fish. A-ma-do, rain-doors, such as in

Japan do duty for walls at night. Aitui-inu, see p. 24. Ame, a sweet, glutinous substance

prepared from rice or millet. Ana, a hole, a crater, a tunnel. Asemij a flowering shrub — the An- dromeda japonica. Basha, a carriage. Bctshi (for haslii in compounds), a

bridge. Betto, a groom. Bonji, the Sanskrit or P&li written

character. Bonien, Brahma. Bosatsu, see p. 28. Bu, the tenth part of a Japanese

inch (see p. 6). Bugaku, an ancient pantomimic

dance. Bunko, a library, a box for books. Buyu, a species of sand-fiy. Chadui, tea-money (see p. 7). Cha-no-yu, the tea ceremonies. Ctiayaj a tea-house (see p. 8). Chigi, see p. 24. Chijimi, crape. Choy a measure of distance (see pp.

5 — 6), a street. Chozu-hachi, a wash-hand basin> a

cistern. Dai, a stand, a table. Bai, big, great. Daibutsu, a colossal image of a

Buddha. Daidokoro, a kitchen. Daigahu, a university, an academy.

Daimon, the great gate of a Bud- dhist temple. Daishi, a great Buddhist abbot or

saint. Darani, a mystic Buddhist formula

or incantation. Do, a hall, one of a set of temple

buildings. Dori (for tori in compounds), a

street. Ema-do, a hall hung with ex-votos. Fvde, a Japanese pen. Fusunia, sliding-screens covered

with paper. Futon, a bed-quilt. Gtty of.

Gakko, a school. Gawa (for kawa in compounds), a

river, a stream. Gedan, the lower and less honour- able portion of certain grand

apartments, G^in, the outer chamber or nave of

a Buddhist temple. Gin, silver.

Go, an honorific prefix. Go, a measure of capacity (see pp.

6, 115). Gohei, the emblems in a Shinto

temple of the ancient offerings

of cloth; they are now usually

strips of white paper. Goko, a halo, a glory round the

head of a saint. Goma-do, a temple for the recital of

prayers while a fire of clean woo^

is burnt. Gongen, see p. 29. Goroju, the Council of State under

the Tokugawa Shogunate. Gwaikokujint a foreigner.

484

Glossary,

•Gwaimusho, the Foreign Office.

HaJe-kei, eight views (see p. 318).

HakuiivisurJcican, a museum.

Hama, the sea-shore.

Hara, a moor.

Harakiri, suicide performed by rip- ping up the abdomen.

Hashi, a bridge.

Hashira, a pillar.

Hashiri, a glissade.

Hatago, see p. 7.

Hatanwto, a vassal of the Shogun having a fief assessed at less than 10,000 kohi.

Heiden, a building for the recep- tion of gohei.

Higashi, east.

Hinoki, the CliamoecyparU ohtusa — a conifer whose wood is used in the construction of Shinto temples and palaces.

Hiragana, the running hand form of the Japanese Kana, or syl- labary.

Hiirw-ne, a siesta.

Honden, se^ Honsha.

Hwxdoy the principal building of a Buddhist monastery.

Hongwanji, see p. 45.

Hmijin, a tea-house formerly used by a Daimyo.

Honto, true, real.

Honsha, the main shrine of a Shin- to temple — sometimes rendered * chapel.*

Honzon, the principal deity or im- age of a Buddhist temple.

Hoto, a Buddhist reliquary or trea- sure-house.

Hozo, the treasure-house of a tem- ple.

Ichi, a fair.

Icho, the name of a tree whose leaves turn gold in autumn, — ^the Salishuria adiamtifolia, also called (ringho hiloha.

In, a seal, a symbol.

Ishi, a stone.

Ita-gaki, see p. 24.

Iwa, a rock.

Iwana, a fresh-water fish.

Iwaya, a cavern.

Ji (at end of temple names), a Buddhist temple.

I Jigoku, hell.

Jiki-do, see p. 27.

Jitnusho, a business office.

Jinja, a Shinto temple.

Jinriiisha, a small light vehicle drawn by one or two men.

Jodan, the raised and therefore more honorable portion of certain grand apartments.

Kaerurmata, (lit. frog's thighs) pieces of timber shaped like the section of an inverted cup, sup- porting a horizontal beam.

Kago, a land of small palanquin.

Kdgo-waiashi, a basket slung to rox)es and used instead of a bridge for crossing a river.

Kagura, a Shint5 pontomimie dance : Kagura-do, a stage for the performance of this dtmce.

Kaido, a highway.

Kaisan, opening up a mountain, hence founding a temple: Jcai- san^, a temple dedicated to its founder.

Kcikemono, a hanging scroll — generally painted.

Kama, a cauldron.

Kanjiki, snow-shoes.

Kami, above, upper.

Kami, a Shinto god or goddess.

Kanio-a4)i, the name of a plant — the a^sarum, whose leaf is the crest of the Tokugawa family.

Kana, the Japanese syllabary.

Kane, money; long measure (see p. 6).

Kannushi, a Shinto priest.

Kara-mon, a gate in the Chinese style.

Katsuogi, see p. 24.

Kama, a river.

Ken, a measure of length (see p. 5).

Kencho, the head office of a pre- fecture.

Keishicho, a police bureau.

Keydki, a tree whose very hard is wood much prized — tiie Zd- kowa keaJci.

Ki, a tree.

Kiji-mono, mosaic wood-work.

Kin, gold.

Kin, a pound (weight) ; see p. 6.

Kirin, a unicorn.

Glossary,

485

Kita, north.

Kohan, an ancient gold coin of oval sliape.

Koenchi, a public garden or park.

Kokity the standard measure of capacity (see p. 6). Incomes 'W'ere formerly estimated in kohi of rice.

Koma~inu, see p. 24.

Kondo, lit. the "golden hall" — often one of the handsomest buildings of a Buddhist monastery.

Kongd-kai, the name of one half of the universe according to Bud- dhist mythology.

Kotsu-dd, a temple containing the ashes of a deceased saint.

Ku, a district in a city.

Kujira, a whale;, cloth measure (see p. 6).

Kunaisho, the Imperial Household Department.

Kuruma, a jinrikisha.

Kusu-no-ki, a camphor-tree.

Kvxu, the Pueraria thv/nbergiana — a plant from which a kind of arrowroot is made.

Kwai, a society, an association.

Kwaird, a gallery.

Kwaisha, a company, a society.

Kwan, a hall, an edifice.

Kwan, the legal unit of weight (see p. 6).

Kwankoha, an industrial bazaar.

Kyakuden, a reception room.

Kyodai, brothers.

Kyoryuchi, a foreign 'concession/ that part of a Japanese city in which foreigners are permitted to reside.

Kybzd, a library of Buddhist scrip- tures.

Ma, a room.

Mdchi, a street, a town.

Makiniono, a scroll.

Mandara,& Buddhist picture — gene- rally on a large scale and depict- ing one half of the mythological universe.

Mannen-bashi, see p. 132.

MasakaJci, see sakaki.

Massha, see p. 24.

Masii, a salmon-trout {SaZniojapo- nicies).

Matsu, a pine-tree.

Matsurif a religious festival.

Megane, spectaicles, an eye-glass.

Mirharashi, a prospect, a view down and over.

Mihoto, see p. 31.

Minamij south.

Mino, a straw rain-coat such as is used by peasants.

Mino-gami, a stout variety of Japa- nese paper, such as is used for the illustrations of temples in pp. 23 and 26.

Mokusei, the Olea fragrans — a tree having small highly scented flowers of a reddish* yellow colour.

Momme, a standard of weight (see p. 6).

3f(m, a g^te.

Monzeki, a temple of the Monto sect, same as a Hongwanji ; see also p. 294.

Mushi-hoshi, a general airing.

Muyo, not wanted, must not.

Nada, a stretch of sea.

Naijin, the inner chamber or chan- cel of a Buddhist temple.

NaJca, middle, inside.

Nashiji, aventurine lacquer.

Nehanzo, see p. 32.

Nenibutsu, a prayer to Buddha.

Netsuke, see p. 13.

Ningyo, a doll, a small figure.

Nippon, Japan.

Nishi, west.

No, of.

No, a species of lyric drama — ^fche only theatrical performance much patronised by the Japa<- nese nobility.

Norinumo, a palanquin.

Nure-hotoke, a Buddhist image standing in the open air.

Nuri, lacquering.

0, an honorific prefix.

O, big (in compound words).

Oban, an ancient gold coin — ^large and oval in shape.

Oka, a hillock, a mound.

Ohi-no-in, the holy of holies, the innermost or furthest of a set of temple buildings ; it often stands on a hilL

436

Glossa}^.

On, an honorific prefix.

Onna-zaka, see pp. 62, 73.

Ori, woven stuff.

Otoko-zaka, see pp. 62, 73.

Rakan, see p. 31.

JZomma, ventilating panels neal*

the ceiling of a room ; they are

often beautifully carved. Beiya, a mausoleum. Renge, a lotus-flower. Ri, a Japanese league (see p. 5-6). RUcyu, a summer palace. Rin, a copper coin worth the tenth

part of a cent, Rinzo, a revolving library meant to

contain the Buddhist scriptures;

see p. 87. Ryobu-Shintdy a hybrid religion

formed by a mixtiu*e of Shinto

with Buddhism. RyUy a dragon. Ryugi or ryw, a school, a manner,

— as of art. Sakaki, the Cleyera japonica — ^the

sacred tree of the Shintoists. Sakate, a tip, a pourboire. Sake, rice-beer, hence alcoholic

liquors generally. 8ama, Lord, Mr., Mrs., Miss. Sammorit the large two-storied gate

at the entrance to the grounds

of a Buddhist temple. Sampan, a shore boat. Samurai, a two-sworded man, a

nobleman's retainer. San, Mr., Mrs., Miss. San (in compounds), a mountain. San-ju-rok-ka-$en, see p. 80. San-kei, the three great sights of

Japan, viz. Matsushima, Ama-no-

Hashidate, and Miyajima. Saru, a monkey. Sehi, a barrier, an octroi. Sen, a cent.

Seto-mono, crockery ; see p. 242. Shake, a salmon.

Shaku, a foot (measure) ; see p, 6. Shakudo, an alloy of copper and

gold. Shakujd, a staff with metal rings

used by Buddhist priests. Shamusho, the office at which the

business of a Shinto temple is

transacted.

Shihu-ichi, an alloy of copper and

silver. Shima, an' island. 8him4), beneath, lower. Shindo, a new road. Shinsenjo, a place for offerings in a

Shinto temple. Shira-ito, white thread — a namfr

often given to waterfalls. Shiro, a castle. 8hd, a measui'e of capacity; (see

pp. 6, 115). Shdgun, see pp. 34, 47. Shcfin, an apartment, a drawing- room. Shoji, a sliding paper door which

serves as a window. Shokubutsri-en, a botanical garden. Shord, a belfry. Soshi-do, a chapel dedicated to the

founder of a sect. Shu, a sect.

Soncho, the mayor of a viUage. Shuku, an abode, a post-town. Shumirdan, the altar of a Buddhist

temple. ^

Shumi-sen, a fabulous mountain

which is the centre of the Bud- dhist universe. Somen, vermicelli. Sotoha, see p. 71. Sugi, a cryptomeria. Suim,on, a water-gate. Suji'kahe, see p. 46. Sun, a Japanese inch (see p. 6). Tahotb, a reliquary in the shape of

a pagoda. Tai, & kind of sea-bream — the

Serranus niarginalis. Taizo-kai, the name of one half of

the universe according to the

Buddhist mj'thology. Taki, a waterfall. Tama-gaki, see p. 24. Tani, a valley. Tanjo, birth. Teikoku, an empire. Tempo, an oblong brass coin having

a hole in the middle and worth

eight-tenths of a sen. Tengu, a long-nosed goblin. Tenno, the Mikado. Tera, a Buddhist temple. To, a measiure of capacity (see p. 6).

Glossary,

437

Toge, a pass over mountains.

Tokko, see p. 30.

Tohonoma, an alcove.

Torii, a Shinto gateway (see p. 24).

T&ro, a stationary lamp or lantern

— e.g. of stone. T8uho, the unit of land measure

(see p. 6). Tnunrugi, spun-silk cloth. Tatinri-bashit see p. 128. Yama, a mountain, a iiiU. Yanagi-gori, see p. 11. Yashcb, a Buddhist demon. Yitahilciy a mansion. Yashiro, a Shinto temple.

Uhiyo'€, a picture representing

popular Ufe. Ura, back, behind. Ura, a stretch of coast. Waraji, a straw sandal used only

for heavy walking. Tadoya, an inn, a hotel. Yakusho, a government office. Yatsu-mune-zukuri, having many

gables — said of a roof. Yen, a Japanese dollar. Yusen, a mail steamer. Zan (for san in compounds), a

mountain, a hill. Zcuihikiy a room, an apartment.

INDEX.

(When there are several references, the most important is given first.)

ABA

Aba, 386.

AbashiH, 428.

Ab5-toge, 234.

Abuta, 425.

Ada, 339.

Adams (Will), 59, 283, 286.

Aden (near Kdbe), 280.

Agano-gawa, 186.

Agari-tSge, 431.

Agatsoma-gawa, 145, 148.

Agematsu, 273 ; 239. '

Agune, 407

Aikawa, 227.

Aikawa-hama, 212.

Ainos, 415; 192, 210, 229.

Ai-no-take, 133.

Aitsu, 390.

Aizen Myo-o, 27.

Aizn, 187.

Ajiro, 109.

Ajisuki-Taka-liikone, 158, 160.

Akabane Junction, 64.

Akadake, 138, 139.

Akagi-san, 151, 171.

Akakura (near Myoko-zan), 223.

Akakura (near Ashio), 169.

Akama, 392.

Akama-ga-seki (see Shimonoseki).

Akanagi-san, 163.

Akanuma-ga-hara, 164, 166.

Akao, 240, 244.

Akappori, 163.

A'^nffahft, 73.

AJuwawa, 130.

ABSENALS

Akashi, 281.

Akayn, 202.

Akazaki, 349.

Akecbi, 243, 314.

Akechi Mitsnhide, 244.

Akiha, 264 ; 241.

Akita, 203, 204.

AkkesM, 426.

Amagi, 394.

Amagi-san, 110.

Ama-no-Hashidaie, 347, 348.

Ama-terasu, 27 ; 22, 248.

Amatsn, 180, 181.

Amebata-yama, 132.

Amida, 27.

Amihari, 199.

Anadaira, 237.

Anan, 28.

Anderson, Dr. Wm., 2, 37, 40, 45.

Andrews, Eev. Walter, Pr^,

Anjin-zuka, 60.

Aomori, 202.

Ao-no-Komyoji, 314.

Aoyama, 73.

Arai, 225.

Arai-yd, 147.

Arashi-yama, 295, 315.

Araya, 206.

Arayama (Akagi-san), 151.

Arayama-tdge, 229.

Arayasu, 222.

Arayu, 183.

Arazawa, 430.

Arima, 282.

Arita, 895.

Arnold, Sir Edwin, 74.

Arsenals, 78.

Indeau

489

ART

Art, 12,

Art Museum (Kyoto), 300.

Art School (Tokyo), 82.

AsaM-dake, 207, 429.

Asakiisa, 84.

Asama vill. (near Matsumoto), 220.

Asama-yama, J.44, 147, 219.

Asama-yama (m Ise), 251.

Asamushi, 201.

Ase-kaki Jizo, 341.

Asliikaga, 151. -

Ashikaga Shoguns, 34, 44, 293, et

pass. Ashikaga Yoshimasa, 312. AsMkaga Yoshimitsu, 292, 293.

Ashikura (in Koshu), 134 ; 133, 135.

Asliikura (near Tateyama), 231.

Ash.i-nazuchi, 351.

Ashi-no-umi, 97.

Ashi-no-yu, 101, 97.

Ashio, 167.

Ashitaka-yama, 116.

Asliiwara-koku, 355.

Aso-san, 402.

Atago-san (Sendai), 195.

Atago-yama (at Karoizawa), 143.

Atago-yama (Kyoto), 314.

Atago-yama (Tokyo), 73.

Atami, 108 ; 106, 111.

Atsumori, 42.

Atsuta, 244, 245.

Awajl, 352.

Awata-guchi, 308.

Awata Palace, 309.

Azabu, '73.

Aziiki-zaka, 431.

Azuma, 143.

Azuma-baghi, 87.

Azuma-yama, 193.

B

Baba (Otsu), 269, 318. Baienji, 109.

Bakan (see Shimonoseki). - Bandai-san, 184, 192, 194, 429. Bange, 187. Banks, 6. Banyu-ga^a, 124. Batch^or, Bey. Jnc, 426.

CHISHIHA

Baths, 7, 16.

Bells (great), 301, 308, 328. Benkei, 36. Benten, 28. Benten-daki, 146. Benten-yama, 101. Benzaiten, 28. Beppu, 399. Besshi, 375. Betsukai, 428. Bird, Miss, 425. Bishamon, 28. Bismarck Hill, 281. Biwa Lake, 317 ; 268. Blakiston, T. W., 416, 417. Bluff (Yokohama), 54. Boju, 4(n.. Benin Islands, 3. Bonten, 28. Books on Japan, 2. Boots, removing the, 8, 16. Bosatsu, 28 Boshu, 171.

Botanical Gardens, 78. " Boys," 5. Buddhism, 24 ; 9, 22. Budo-yama, 207. Buko-zan, 140. Bungo Fuji (see Yufu). Burando Yakushi, 222. Buson, 37, 312. Byobu-ga-ura, 367. Byddo-in, 316.

Capron, Greneral, 416. Cave-dwellings, 96. Cave-temple of Kwannon, 139. Cemetery of Koya-san, 341. Cemeteries (Imperial), 79, 299. Chacha-nobori, 427. Chiba, 174.

Chichibu, 135; 96, 126, 133. Chidori, 170. Chijiwa, 385. Chikubu-shima, 322. Chikuma-gawa, 220. Chion-in, 306. Chishima^ 427.

440

Index.

CHITOSS

Ohitose, 424,

Oho Densu, 37.

Ohofu (see Toyoiira).

Ohokai-zan, 205.

Chomeiji-j'ania, 319.

Choshi, 176.

Chuai Tenno, 365.

Chuda, 354.

Chusonji, 197.

Ohuzenji, 165,169.

Climate, 8.

Circular Railway, 64.

Clothing, 8.

Confucius, temples of, 77, 151.

Cormorant Fishing, 93.

Curios, 13.

Curio Street (TokyG), 77.

Currency, 5.

Custom-house, 3.

Czarewitch, 319 ; 45.

Daibutsu (Hyogo), 282. Daibutsu (Kamakura), 56. Daibutsu (Kyoto), 300. Daibutsu (Nara), 328. Daibutsu (Tokyo), 80. Daienji, 91. Dai-ga-hara, 136. Daiganji, 174. Daikoku, 28. Dainichi-do, 161. Dainichi Nyorai, 28. Dainichi-toge, 207. Daira-botchi, 175. Daira-ura, 228. Daisen, 349. Daishaku, 198, 199. Daishoji, 228. Daitd Kokushi, 292. Daitokuji, 292. Daiyagawa, 154, ]()0. Dango-zaka, 78. Dan-no-ura, 46, 366. Dashiwara-dani, 238. Date Masamune, 82, Dazaifu, 393; 32,88. Death-Stone, 184. Deer Island, 412.

ITCHU

Deer Park, 162. Dengyo Daishi, 37,316. Denzu-in, 78. Diet, Imperial, 74. Dixon, J. M., 78. Dobutsu-en, 83. Dockyard (Nagasaki), 381. Dogashima, 99. Dogo, 366. Dorogawa, 338. Dorokujin, 431. Doryo-san, 104. Doshisha, 291. Dosojin, 28. Doyo, 175. Dress, 8. Dzushi, 58.

Ebisu, 28.

Ebisu-Minato, 226. 227.

Eboshi-jima, 361.

Eboshi-yama, 207.

Echigo Fuji, 207.

Educational Museiim, 77.

Eight Beauties of Omi, 318.

Eikwando, 310.

Eirinji, 122.

Eitel, Dr. E. J., Pref.

Ejiri, 261, 262.

Eko-in, 88.

Emi, 180.

Emma-0, 28.

Emperor, present, 322.

Ena-san, 133, 137. ,\\

Enchin, 304. y^.

Engineering College, .74^. -* •

Enno, 136.

Enno Shokaku, 37, 338.

Enoshima, 57.

Enoyu,410. \ ^

Enryo-kwan, 90. i,.

" Ertogroul," 275.' *

Esan, 419.

Etajima, 363. ,

Esashi, 422.

Eshin, 37.

Eta, 88.

Etchu, 230.

.\ •.

%_.

Index.

441

FESTIVALS

Festi^-als, 65.

Fischer, 380.

Fisli-"breeding establishment, 322.

Fishing, 14, 165.

" Fixed Routes," 4.

Foreign Concession (Tokyo), 90.

Formosan Expedition, 36,

Forty-seven Eonins, 73.

Fucbii, 93

Fu Daishi, 87. -

Fudo, 28, 175.

Fudo, temples of, 176; 91.

Fugen, 28.

Fugen-dake, 388.

Fuji. 114.

Fujikawa, 136; 128.

Fuji-mi jn-san-shu, 115.

Fuji-no-Mori, 317.

Fujisan, 116, 317.

Fujisawa, 258.

Fukagawa, 89.

Fukai*a Pass, 107.

Fukiage, 82.

Fukuchiyama, 344.

Fukue, 411.

Fukui, 228.

Fukiimachi, 344.

Fukuoka, 392.

Fukura (near Ohokai-zan), 205.

Pukura (in Awaji), 355.

Fukurokuju, 29.

EHikusMma (in Yezo), 421.

Fukushima (North Ry.), 192.

Fukushima (on Nakasendd), 273; 239.

Fukuwara, 41, 42, 283, 288.

Fukuwata, 182.

Fukuyama (Inland Sea), 363.

Fukuyama (Matsumae), 420,(423.

Funabashi, 174.

Fnnak9>ira, 208.

FunaliilM, 208.

Puna&;r*430.

Funatsu (near Fuji), 1^1, 138.

Funatsu (on Takahara-gawa), 233

Puruichi, 246.

Purukawa, 196.

Furumachi, 182.

GONOBN

Furuyu, 396. Fusan, 412. Fushiki, 229.

Fushimi (on Nakaeendo), 274. Fushimi, palace of, 296, et pass, Futa-ara, 153, 158. Futago, 93. Futago-yama, 101. Futakuchi-toge, 202. Futami, 250. Futamiya, 164. Futatabi-san, 280. Futatsu-goya, 183. Futsukaichi, 393. Futsunushi, 176. Futtsu-saki, 275.

Fuwa Barrier, 268.

4

Gakushi Kai-in^ 83.

G^mushi, 422.

Ganjii-san, 198.'

Geku temple, 248 ; . 247.

Genji Monogatari, 43, 281, 322. *

Gen-Sammi Yorimasa, 316.

Gensan, 412.

Gero, 236.

Gifu, 268; 235.

Ginkakuji, 312.

Ginza, 77.

Gion, 32.

Gion (Kyoto), 307.

Glover and Co., 384.

Gochi, 225.

Go-chi Nyorai, 29.

Gochoda, 147.

Go-Daigo, 37,

Godo, 168, 169.

Gods, most popular, 27.

Gohonsha, 232.

Go-hyaku Rakan, 31.

Go-hyaku Rakan, temples of, 88,

91, 267. Gojo, 339. Gokamura, 131. Gokase-gawa, 405. Gokokuji, 79.

Gompachi and Komurasaki, 91. Gongen, 29, 158.

442

Index,

OONGEN

Gongen (Hakone), 105.

Gongen-dake, 138, 139.

Go-no-he, 201.

Goroju, 174.

Goroka-dake, 238.

Goryochi (NikkeO, 362.

Ck)ryokaku, 417.

Go-Shirakawa, Emperor, 300.

Gotemba, 116, 259, 103, 114.

Goto Islands, 412.

Goyo-san, 215.

Goyu, 265.

Gozu Tenno, 32.

Griffis, Eev. W. E., Pref.t 2, 228.

Guides, 4.

Gunge, 356.

Gwaryobai, 89.

Gwassfen, 205, 429.

Gyogi Bosatsu, 38.

H

Habu, 112. Hachi-ga-machi, 234. Hachi-ishi, 152. Hachijo, 112, 113. Hachiman, 29, 89, 314. Hachiman Taro, 198, 207. Hacliioji, 95, 123. Hachiro-gala, 208. Ha^i, 352. Haguro-san, 205. Haijima, 125. Haiki, 383. Hakata, 392. Hakii, 130, 135. Hakkei, 318 ; 59. Hakodate, 416. Hakone, 105; 97. Hakosaki, 392. Haku-san, 239, 231. Hamada, 352. Hamamatsu, 264. Hamamura, 352. Hamana Lagoon, 264. Hamasaki, 395. Hamura, 125. Hanamaki, 198. Hanare-yama, 143. Hanashiki, 149.

HiaASHI OTANI

Hanawa, 169.

Handa, 246.

Handa, mines, 194.

Haneo, 149.

Hanging Bridge, 128, 135.

Hankai Eailway, 286.

Hannen, Mrs. N. J., Pref.

Hanno, 126.

Harada,393.

Harinoki Pass, 237.

Harris, Townsend, 111.

Haruna, 146.

Hase, 333.

Hashiba, 220.

Hashikura, 373.

Hashikura Rokuemon, 82.

Hashimoto (near Koya-san), 339.

Hashimoto (near Kyoto), 314.

Hashino Nakatomo, 84.

Hashitate, 139.

Hata (Hakone), 103.

Hata (near Tateshina-yama), 138.

Hawes, Lieut. A. G. S., Pref.

Hayachine yama, 198, 214.

Hayakawa (Hakone), 98, 107.

Hayakawa (Koshii), 131.

Hayakawa village, 132.

Hegawa-kawa, 214.

Hemi, 59.

Hibara, 194, 429.

Hibiya, 75.

Hida (Province), 230.

Hida (in Bungo), 393.

Hida (in Buzen), 398.

Hida Kaido, 235.

Hidari Jingoro, 38, 155.

Hideyori, 300.

Hideyoshi, 38, 306, 342.

Hie, 31.

Hie no Jinja, 74.

Hiei-zan, 323 ; 44.

liigane-toge, 106, 109.

Higashi Fushimi, Prince, 294.

Higashi Hongwanji (Kyoto), 303.

Higashi Hongwanji (Tokyo), 84.

Higashi Iwase, 230.

Higashi Kirishima, 409.

Higashi Odori, 432.

Higashi Mochiya, 271.

Higashi Ogawa, 170.

Higashi Otani, 307.

Index.

443

HIOASHI dTAHA

fiigaslii Oyama, 187.

Siino Misaki, 276.

Sijikawa, 375.

:B:ikage, 149.

Sikawa (Tokyo), 73.

Sikawa (on the Tamagawa)^ 126,

140. Hikone, 322, 369. Siko-san, 394. Himeji, 362. Himi, 389. Himi-toge, 382. Hirabayashi, 134. Hirado, 362. Hirahama, 107. Hirano, 282. Hirano Jinja, 292. Hirasawa. 138, 139, 272. Hiratsuka, 61. Hirayu, 234. Hirazawa, 206. Hirosaki, 208. Hirose, 233. Hiroshima, 363 j 352. History, 34. Hitachi, 171. Hito-ana, 121; 117. Hitoyoshi, 410. Hiyama, 344. Hiyoku-zuka, 91. Hiziime, 198. Ho, 132. *

Hoei-zan, 116. Hofukuji-toge, 220. Hojo, 180.

Hojo Regents, 34, 43, 110. Hoka-zan, 384. Hokigawa, 182. Hokkaido, 415. Hokkaido Railway, 4Z4. Hokkoku Kaido, 222. Hokkyo, 424. Hokoda, 177. Hokurokudo, 270. Hommonji, 92. Honen Shonin, 310. Hongo, 110. Hongwanji temples, 84, 90, 253,

266, 285, 302, 303. Honjo (near Akita), 206. Honjo (near Takasaki), 140.

IIZUKA

Honjo (Tokyo), 88. Honkokuji, 301. Honoki Shimizu, 431. Honzawa, 138. Ho-o-zan, 134, 136. Horikiri, 88. Hori-no-uchi, 93. Horiuchi, 58. Horobetsu, 425. Horyuji, 324, 331. Horse-shoe Valley, 281. Hosokute, 274. Hosonaga, 406. Hoso-o Pass, 167. Hossawa, 126. Hotel, 29. Hotoke, 29. Hotoke-iwa, 158, 160. Hotta family, 174. Hozu, 315. Huish, M.B., 2. Hunter's Gap, 280. Hutchinson, Rev. A. B., Pref. Hyakkwan, 404. Hyaku-ana, 96. Hyaku-nin Is-shu, 319, 327. Hyaku-sawa, 208. Hyogo, 282. Hy5ri-yama, 211.

I

Ibuki-yama, 268.

Ichibata-yama, 351.

Ichikawa Ferry, 96.

Ichi-no-he, 201.

Ichi-no-miya, 356.

Ichinoseki, 196. •

Ichi-no-tani, 282, 42.

Ide-zawa, 134.

lemitsu, 38.

leyasu, 39, 300.

Igano, 355.

lida, 240.

lide-san, 207, 430.

ligai, 336.

lijima, 240.

li Kamon no Kami, 75, 322.

lizaka, 194.

lizuka (Takasaki), 141, 147.

444

Index,

IIZUKA

JIE DAI8HI

liziika (in Kyushu), 391.

Isobe, 141 .

lizima-san, 222.

Isshinden, 253.

Ikao, 145.

Itabashi (Tokyo), 64.

Ikeda (in Shikoku), 373.

Itabashi (near Kofu), 138.

Ikeda (on Tenryii-gawa), 241.

Itakura Shigemaaa, 389.

Ikeprami, 92 ; 26.

Iterup, 427.

Iki, 362.

Ito (Arazawa), 430.

Ikisu, 177.

Ito (in Izu), 109, 111.

Ikudama, 285.

Itoi-gawa, 230.

Iknno, 31f4.

Itomi, 131

Ikuta, 280.

Itsiikaichi, 126.

Imabari (see Imaharu).

Itsuknshima (see Miyajima).

Imaharu, 366.

Iwabiichi, 259; 135, 136.

Ima-i, 331.

Iwai, 196.

Imaisurugi, 229.

Iwai-nuski, 176.

Imari, 395.

Iwaki, 187.

Imba Lagoon, 174.

Iwaki-san, 208, 423.

Imose-yama, 336.

Iwaknni, 365.

Inada-hime, 351.

Iwaknzure, 431.

Ina^i, 174.

Iwamurata, 271.

Inago, 138.

Iwanai, 423.

Ina Kaido, 240, 244.

Iwanuma, 195.

Inamura-dake, 206.

Iwase Matahei, 39.

Ina.ri, 29, 298.

Iwashimizu Hachiman-gii, 314.

Inari-kawa, 163.

Iwataki, 348.

Inari station, 269.

Iwate-san, 198.

Inari temple (Kyoto), 298.

Iwaya-dake, 383.

Inasa-yama, 382.

Iwo-san, 427.

Inawashiro, 184, 429.

Izanagi, 29 ; 22.

Inawashiro Lake, 183.

Izanami, 29.

Inland Sea, 357.

Izawa, 137.

Innai, 204.

Izu, 108, 111. 4

Ino, 372.

Izugaharaj 411.

Ino Cbiikei, 73.

Izumi Strait, 276.

I-no-Hayata, 316.

Izumo, great temple of, 360 ; 23.

I-no-kashira, 94.

Izumosaki, 226.

Insatsu Kyoku, 76.

IziiTia-san, 222.

Inns, 7.

Izu no Shichi-to, 111.

Irako-zaki, 245.

Izuru, caves of, 150, 153.

Irimachi, 152.

Izu-san, 109 ; 107.

Iriyama-t6ge, 143.

Isahaya, 389.

Ise, 244.

J

Iseji, 245.

^^

Ise Ondo, 247.

Jakko, 161, 162.

Ishikake-yama, 100.

James, Lieut. T. H., Prrf.

Ishikari river, 424.

James, Mrs. T. H., 345.

Ishikawa-jima, 90.

" Japan Mail," Pre/., 76, 219.

Ishinomaki, 211; 196.

" Japanese Fairy Tale Series," 320,

Ishiyama-dera, 321.

345.

Ishizuchi-yama, 375.

Jie Daishi, 84.

Index,

445

JIGEN DAI8HI

■Jigen Daishi, 84, 154.

Jikaka Daishi, 86.

Jikan, 162.

Jikkokn-toge, 106.

Jimmu Tenno, 40.

Jinmra Tenno, Mausoleum of, 332.

Jingo Kogo, 40.

Jin-ga-mine, 343.

Jinguji, 204.

Ji-no-shima, 276.

J^inzu-gawa, 232.

Jizo, 2A, 101.

Jizo-ga-take, 133.

Jodanke, 424.

Jo-ga-hana, 233.

Jogashima, 60.

Josetsu, 40.

Joshinji, 89.

Jiimon-toge, 139.

Ju-ni Doji, 86.

Ju-ni-kai, 87.

Juniso, 93.

Ju-ni-ten, 295.

Junnin, Emperor, 353, 355.

Junsaimura, 418.

Junsai-numa, 418.

Jurojin, 29.

Juroku Kakan, 31.

Ju-san-toge, 274.

Kabe, 352. Kabuki-za, 90. Kabuto-kami-san, 214. Kachiyama, 180. Kadori, 176. Kaempfer, 36. Kaga Yashiki, 77. Kagemori, 139. Kagoshima, 407. Kaigane-san, 135. Kaikawa, 375. Kaimon-dake, 410. Kainose, 375. Kaitakushi, 415, 418. Kaito, 245.

Kajika-zawa, 131, 135. Kajiki, 409. Kakegawa, 264.

KABITA

Kakujo, 252.

Kakumi, 420.

Kamado, 274.

Kamafuse-zan, 201.

Xamagawa, 140.

Kamagori, 260.

Kamaisbi, 215.

Kamakura, 55.

Eamanashi-gawa, 131, 136.

Eamatari, 335.

Eameda, 422.

Eameido, 88.

Eamezawa-gawa, 122.

Eameoka, 344.

Eami-Gamo, 313.

Kami-ichi, 336.

Kami-ide, 121; 117.

Kamikane, 127.

Kamikawa, 424.

Kami Nishino, 236.

Kami-no-Suwa, 137.

Eiiminoyama, 202.

Eamishima, 246.

Kamiya, 339.

Kami Yashiro, 246 ; 244.

Kamman-ga-fuchi, 160.

Kammuri-ga-take, 100.

Kamozawa, 127.

Kamuro, 339.

Kana-ga-saki, 228.

Kanagawa, 54, 62.

Kaname-ishi, 177.

Kanaoka, 42.

Kanaya (Boshu), 179.

Kanaya, (Tokaido), 264.

Kanazawa (in Kaga), 228.

Kanazawa (near Lake Suwa), 137.

Kanazawa (near Yokohama)^ 59.

Kanda Myojin, 77.

Kane, 339.

Kane-ga-take, 131 .

Kannawa-mura, 399.

Kanna-yama, 224.

Kano family, 40.

Kano-san, 178.

Kan Shojo, 32.

Kanzaki, 396.

Kaori, 194.

Karakimimi-dake, 410.

Kariki, 424.

Kariya, 363.

446

Index,

EJLSASAKI

Karasald, 819. Karizaka-toge, 140. Kamizawa, 142. Karuizawa-Naoetsu Eailway, 219,

270. Kasama, 173. Kasamori, 176. Kasatori-toge, 271. Kashii, 392. Kashima, 177.

Kashiwabara (Naoetsu Ky.), 223. Kashiwabara (Osaka-Nara £j.), 324. Kashiwabara (near Sakurai), 332. £ashiwara-yama, 354. Kashiwazaki, 225. Kasho, 29. Kasuga, 326. Katase, 58, 57. Katashina-gawa, 170. Kato Kiyomasa, 41, 401. Kato Shirozaemon, 242. Katsunuma, 124. Katsuragi-yama, 336. Katsura-gawa rapids, 315. Katsnra no Eikyu, 297, 287. Katsuyama, 240. Kawachi, 404, 405. Kawaguchi (near Fuji), 138 ; 121. Kawaguchi (on Miyode-gawa), 372. Kawaguchi (on Yoshino-gawa), 373,

375. Kawakami, J^56. Kawanoe, 373. Kawara-yama, 382. Kawasaki (Ise), 250. Kawasaki (near Tokyo), 63. , Kawa-uchi (N.E. coast), 214. Kazusa, 171. Keage, 318; 217. Kegon, 165. Keicho-zan, 183. Keigashima, 259. Keiki, ex-Shogun, 262. Kei no Matsubara, 356. Ken-ga-mine, 118. Kenninji, 304. Ken-no-mine, 222. Kesen-numa, 215. Kiga, 99. Kiimi-dera 344. Kii Promontory, 276.

KOIBHIWASA

Kikonai, 422.

Kikuchi, Professor, 185.

Kimbo-san, 403.

Kimpu-san, see Kimbo-san.

Kimpu-zan, 123.

Kinkakuji, 292.

Kinko-zan, 308, 318.

Kinkwa-zan, 211, 212.

Kinomiya, 109.

Kintai-kyo, 365.

Kintoki-zan, 103.

•Kinukasa-yama, 293.

Kirifuri, 161.

Kiri-ishi, 131.

Kirishima;409, 73.

Kirishitan-zaka, 78.

Kiritsumi, 144.

Kiryu, 151.

Kisarazu, 178.

Kishi Bojin, 29.

Kisogawa, 272-4.

Kiso Kaido, 272.

Kitakami-gawa, 196, 211, 214.

Kitano Tenjin, 291.

Kit a Shirakawa, Prince, 80, 154.

Kitaura Lagoon, 177.

Kita Yoshimi-mura, 96.

Kiyomizu-dera, 304.

Kiyomori, 41.

Kiyosumi, 181.

Kizawa, 122.

Kizugawa, 817, 330.

Kizuki, 350. .

Kobe, 279 ; 269.

Kobe-gawa, 351.

Kobo Daishi, 41, et pass.

Kobori Enshu, 306.

Kobotoke-toge, 135.

Kobukuji, 330.

Kochi, 372.

Kochi-no-yii, 127.

Kodachi, 120,

Kodaiji, 306.

Koenami, 355.

Kofu, 121.

Koga, 64, 192.

Koganei, 94.

Kogota, 196.

Kohoji, 97.

Koishikawa, 78.

Koishiwara, 394.

Index,

447

KOJIGOKU

Kojigoku (Hakone)^ 100.

Kojigoku (Shimabara), 386.

Kojiki, 35, 143. 333, 351, 354.

Kojiki Den, 252.

Kojima,423.

Kdjimachi, 74.

Kojima Takanori, 42.

Koken, Empress, 353.

Kokoromi-zaka, 314.

Kokubunji, 93, 94.

Kokura, 391.

Kokuzo Bosatsu, 251.

Koma-ga-take (Hakone), 102.

Koma-ga-take (Koshu), 136.

Koma-ga-take (Shinshu), 239; 231.

Koma-ga-take (Yezo), 419.

Komagino, 95, 123.

Ko-Manago, 163, 165.

Konfktsu (near Fukui), 228.

Komatsu (near Niigata), 186.

Komei Tenno, 299, 313.

Kome-no-tsu, 407.

Kome-no-ura, 228.

Kominato (Boshu), 180 ; 176.

Kominato (Oshu Kaido), 201.

Komitake, 116.

Komoro, 219, 145.

Kompira, 30.

Kompira, temple of, 366.

Kompira-san, 146.

Kompira-yama, 381.

Komuro-zan, 109.

Konashi, 178.

Konishi Yukinaga, 38, 286.

Komori, 345.

Kondo, 343.

Kongobuji, 340.

Ko no Amida, 252. •

Kbnodai, 97.

Konosu, 96.

Konsei-togc, 169, 170.

Koniima, 418.

Koraku-en, 78.

Korea, 411, 412.

Korea, conquests of; 38, 40.

Koretsubo, 131.

Kori-dani, 149.

Korin, 42.

Koriyama (near Nara), 32§.

Koriyama (North Ry.), 192; 187.

Koromo-gawa, 197-8.

KUBOGOMA

Koropok-guru, 426.

Kosame, 149.

Kose, 144.

Kose-no-Kanaoka, 42.

Koshin, 30.

Koshin-zan, 167.

Koshoji, 301.

Koshu Kaido, 123, 136, 272.

Kotalba, 126.

Kotaki mine, 167.

Kotohira, 366.

Kotajima-minato, 374.

Kowaki-dani, 100.

Koya-san, 340 ; 338.

Koyasu, 61.

Koyo-kwan, 73.

Kozenji, 196.

Kozori, 134, 135.

Kozu, 62, 98, 259; 3.

Kozu-no-miya, 285.

Kozu-shima, 113,

Kublai Khan, 34, 55.

Kucharo, 428.

Kuchinotsu, 390.

Kuchiono, 348.

Kudan, 75.

Kudo Suketsune, 101.

Kuenji, 128.

Ku-jii-ku Tani, 179.

Kumagai, 140.

Kumagai-do, 311.

Kumagai Naozane, 42, 311.

Kumagawa, rapids of, 404, 411.

Kumamoto, 401.

Kumano Jinja, 350.

Kumanosawa, 235.

Kumihama, 348.

Kunashiri, 427.

Kuno-zan, 260.

Kuper, Admiral, 407.

Km-ama-yama, 313.

Kuie, 363.

Kurihashi, 192.

Kuriko Kaido, 193.

Kiu^ile Islands, 427.

Kurino, 410.

Kurobe, 238.

Kurobera, 123.

Kuroda Nagamasa, 392.

Kurodani, 310.

Kurogoma, 138.

1

448

Index,

EUROHIME

Kurohime, 223.

Kurokami, 408.

Kurokawa, 207.

Euronota, 124.

Kurosaki, 391.

Kurosawajiri, 198, 203.

Kuroshio, l7l.

Knruma-dani, 280.

Kunime, 393.

Kusakabe, 127.

Eusatsu, 148.

Knsatsu Junction, 269 ; 254.

Knshiro, 426.

Kusiinoki Masashige, 42.

Eutani, 229.

Eutsukake, 144, 271.

Eutsuzawa, 135.

Ewankoba (Shiba), 68.

Ewannon, 30.

Ewannon, Thirty-three Places of,

•257. Ewannon-dake, 135. Kwannonji, 252. Ewannon-no-taki, 384. Ewannon-yama, 160. Ewannon-zaki, 275. Ewansei Railway, 245, 254. Ewanzeonji, 393. Eyo-ga-shima, 132. Eyoraishi, 137. EyOrytlji, 139. Eyoto. 287 ; 4, 9, 67, 269. Eyushu, 377.

Lake Biwa, 317; 4.

Lake Biwa Canal, 318; 309.

Lakes, near Hakodate, 418.

Language, 17.

Layard, R. de B., Tref.

Library, public. 82.

Loochoo Islands, 3; 408.

Lowell, Percival, Pref., 229; 432.

Luck, gods of, 32.

I^uggage, 10.

Maebira mine, 233. Macpherson's Hill, 59. Maebara, 180.

MsauRO

Maebaru, 395.

Maebashi, 140.

Maeguchi, 149.

Maeyama, 389.

Maezawa, 197.

Magome, 274.

Maibara, 268.

Maibara-Tsuruga Railway, 227-

Maiko, 281, 357.

Maizuru, 346.

Makishima, 386.

Makonomai, 424.

Makura no taki, 161.

Mama Eonodai, 97.

Mama no Tekona, 97.

Manazhru, 108.

Mangwanji, 154.

Mausolea, 68, 83, 155, 158.

Mausoleum of Jimmu Tenno, 332.

Manyoshuj 97, 212.

Maps, Pref.y 2.

Mariko, 93.

Marine Biological Laboratory, €0.

Marishiten, 31.

Marugame, 366.

Maruno, 1 36.

Maruyama (Eyoto), 307.

Maruyama (Tokyo), 72.

Masakado, 77.

Masaki-gawa, 410.

Masuyama, 424.

Matsuda, 180.

Matsu, 349.

Matsuida, 142.

Matsukawa, 192.

Matsumae, 415, 420, 423.

Matsumoto, 220, 235.

Matsunoki, 234.

Matsuo, 357.

Matsushima (Ina Eaido), 240; 244.

Matsushima (near Nagasaki), 362.

Matsushima (Sendai), 209, 210; 196.

Matsushiro, 220.

Matsuyama, 366.

Matsuzaka, 252.

Matsuzato, 122.

Maya Bunin, 31.

Maya-san, 280.

Me-Akan,.426, 428.

Megane-bashi, 77.

Meguro, 91.

Index.

440

HBNDEZ PINTO

MUENZUKA

Mendez Pinto, 400.

Mito, Prince of, 43, 78, 177.

Mera, 181.

Mito Eflilway, 172.

Mida, see Amid a.

Mitsubishi Company, 384.

Midono, 274.

Mitsu-ga-hama, 366.

Miharu, 363.

Miwa, 333.

Mihara (volcano), 112.

Miya, 244.

Mi-harashi, 99.

Miyagino, 99.

Miharu, 188.

Miyajima, 364.

Miidera, 319.

Miyako, 214.

IVriike, 390, 393.

Miyako Odori, 288.

Mikaburi-yama, 138.

Miyamizu, 105.

Mikado, present, 322.

Miya-no-ichi, 406.

" Mikado's Empire,*' 2.

Miyanokoshi, 273.

Mi-kaeri no Aniida, 310.

Miyanoshita, 97—99.

Mikami-yama, 320.

Miyazono, 393.

Mikasa-yama, 330.

Miyazu, 347.

Mikkaichi, 344.

Miyodo-gawa, 372.

Mikomotq, 275.

Mizaka. 352.

Mikumo, 254.

Mizusawa, 198.

Mikuni-toge, 406.

Mochii, 372.

Mikuriya, 349.

Mochiznki, 271.

Miller, Eev. E. E;, Pref.

Moganii-gawa, 207.

Mimi-zuka, 301.

Mogi, 382.

Mimmaya, 209.

Moheji, 422.

Mimpei, 355.

Moji, 366.

Minamoto family, 34.

Mombetsu, 423.

Minato (in Awaji), 356!

Momiyama, 178.

Minato (Tenjin-yama), 179.

Mongol invasion, 34, 55.

Minato-gawa, 282, 283 j 42.

Monju, 31.

Mine, 58.

Monzeki temi)les, 84, 90.

Mine no Yakushi, 325.

Moon Temple, 280.

Mino, 282.

Mori^ 426.

Minobu, 128;43.

Mori, Viscount, 249.

Mint, 284.

Morioka, 198.

Mio Jinja, 350.

Moritsnka, 59.

Miomote valley, 207, 431.

Moroda,, 147.

Mio no Matsubara, 260.

Mororan, 42o.

Misaka-toge, 137.

Morozaki, 246.

Misaki, 60, 112.

Morse, Prof. E.S., 2. 417.

Misen, 338.

Mortuary temples, 68, 83.

Mishima,, 110.

Moto-Aikai, 205.

Missions, 33, 365,411.

Moto-Makone, 102, 105.

Mississippi JBay, 59.

Motomiya, 184, 192.

Misumi, 404.

Motomura, 112.

Mitrfii, 405.

Motona, 180.

Mitajiri, 365.

Motonobu, 40.

Mitake (near Kofu), 122.

Motoori Norinaga, 252.

Mitake (on Nakasendo), 274.

Motosu, 120.

MitAke (near Ome), 126.

Motoyama, 272.

Mitford, A.B., 174, 282.

Muda, 339.

Mito, 173.

Muenzuka, 88.

450

Index.

MXJKADE-TAMA

Mukade-yama, 320. Mukojima, 87. Murakami, 207, 4f31. Murasaki Shikibu, 43, 322. Marayama, 117. Murdoch, J., Pref, Muryo-in, 78. Museum (Ueno), 81. Museum of Arms, 75. Mushi-yu, 146. Mutsuda, 339.

•"My Lord Bag-O'-Rice," 320. Myogi-san, 141. Myohoji, 93.

Myojin-ga-take, 100, 104. Myojo-ga-take, 100, 104. Myoken-dake, 388. Myoken-zan, 347, 348. Myoko-zan, 224. Myoshinji, 294. Myoto-seki, 250. Mythology, 22, 350.

Nabari, 246.

Nabaeshima, 360.

Nabeshima family, 74.

Nabeshima Marquis, 396.

Nachi, 261.

Kae no taki, 224.

Nagahama (Fuji), 120.

Nagahama (Lake Biwa), 322; 228.

Nagahama (Shikoku), 375.

Nagakubo, 271 ; 220.

Nagano, 221.

Nagaoka (near Naoetsii), 226.

Nagaoka (Tokaido Ry.), 268.

Nagaoka no Tenjin, 314.

Nagao Pass, 107.

Nagasaki, 379.

Nagasawa, 138.

Nagata-ch5, 74.

Nagoya, 266.

Naiku temple, 251 ; 247.

Naishi-dokoro, 332.

Najima, 392.

Naka-dori, 77.

Nakagawa, 875.

Nakalzumi, 241.

Naka Kaido, 274.

NINNAJI

Nakamura, 207, 432.

Nakanojo, 147.

Nakano-maAshi, 241.

Nakanoshima, 284.

Nakasendo, 270 ; 140.

Nakatsu, 398.

Nakatsu-gawa, 274.

Nakatsu-mine, 374.

Naka-umi Lagoon, 349.

Naki-bori, 77.

Nambu, 202.

Namegawa, 273.

Nanae, 418.

Nanao, 229.

Nana-taki, 162, 163.

Naniwa, 288.

Nantai-zan, 163, 165, 166.

Nanzenji, 310.

Naoetsu, 225.

Nara, 324, 326 ; 4.

Narada, 132.

Narai, 272.

Narashino, 174.

Nara to Ise, 245.

Narita, 175.

Naruto, 355.

Naruto, Whirlpool of, 374.

Nashimoto, 110.

Nasu, 182, 192.

Nasuno-yama, 184.

Natsumi, 178.

Natsushima, 58.

Naimiann, Dr. E., 141, 205, 207, 432.

Naval Academy, 90.

Nawa-ike, 233.

Nebane, 244.

Neeshima, Rev. Joseph, 291.

Nekoya, 261.

Nemba, 120.

Nemuro, 426.

Nichiren, 43, 57, 92, 128, 130, 180.

Niegawa, 272.

Nihon-bashi, 77 ; 67.

Nihongi, 33.

Nihonmatsu, 192.

Ni-gwatsu-do, 327.

Niigata, 226.

Niijima, 113.

Niitsu, 226.

Nijo, Palace, 295 ; 287.

Nikko, 162.

Ninnaji, 294.

Inde^,

451

NINOTAIBA

Kinotaira, 100.

Nintoku Tenno, 287.

Ni-o, 31.

Nippara-gawa, 126.

Nippon Yusen Kwaisha, 3, 203, 211,

246, 276, 362, 411, 417, 423, 426. Kirasaki, 136. Nishino Buntaro, 249. Nishi Hongwanji (Kyoto), 302. Nishi Hongwanji (Tokyo), 90. Ni'shi no Kyo, 381. Nishinomiya, 269. Nishi-no-umi (Fuji), 120. Nishi-no-umi (Ghtizenji), 165. Nishi Otani, 304. Nitta Yoshisada, 44, 57. Noboribetsu, 425. Nobechi, 201. Nobeoka, 405. Nobiru, 211, 197. Nobunaga, 44. Nodori-san, 133. Nogami, 139. Nogata, 391. Noguchi, 238. Noheji, 201. Nojima, 181. Nojiri Lake, 223. Nojiri (on Nakasendo), 274. Nokendo, 58. Nokogiri-yama, 179. Nomugi pass, 235 ; 234. Nonojuku, 203. Norikura, 235, 231. Normal School (Tokio), 77. Norokawa, 134, 136. North-East Coast, 214. Northern and Southern Courts, 37 ;

35. Northern Railway, 191. Noshiro, 208. Noto, 229. Notogawa, 269. Notsubara, 400. Nozawa, 187. Nozugawa, 110. Numa-ga-ike, 106. Numakunai, 200. Numao, 149. Numata, 171. Numasu, 259 ; 108. Kunobiki, 280.

OKATAKA

Nusbima, 354. Nyoh5-zan, 163. Nyoirinji, 387. Nyo-i-rin Kwannon, 31. Nyorai, 31.

0-Akan, 426, 428.

Oarai, 173.

Obaku-san, 317.

Obama, 386.

Obi Ginzan, 235.

Obu, 261.

Ochiai, 127.

Octagonal shrine, 72.

Oda, 396.

Odaki, 193.

Odate, 208.

Odawara, 98, 104.

Oenami, 355.

Oe-yama, 345.

Ofuji, 127.

Of una, 55, 61.

Ofunatsu, 176, 177.

Ofuruma, 222. '

Ogaki, 268.

Ogawa, 246.

Ogawa no Yumoto, 170.

Ogeyama, 374.

Oginohama, 211, 212.

Ogo, 151.

Ogoya, 375.

Oguni, 430.

0-Gwannon, 78.

Ohara, 171.

Ohashi, 397.

Ohiradai, 99.

Oi, 274.

Oigawa, 133, 264.

Oishi Kuranosuke, 73.

Oiso, 62.

Oita, 400.

Oiwake ^akasendo), 145, 271.

Oiwake (near Kyoto), 318.

Oji, 95.

Oji (Osaka-Nara Ry.), 331.

Ojigoku (Miyanoshita), 100, 103.

Ojigoku (Tateyama), 232.

Ojin Tenno, 40.

Okayama, 393.

452

Index.

OKAZAKI ,

PEKRY

Okazaki (Tokaidd), 264.

Onimia, 418.

Okazaki (Shikoku), 374.

Orio, 391.

Oki Islands, 349, 350.

Osaka, 283 ; 269.

Oki-no-shima, 27G.

Osaka (hill), 318.

Okitsu, 260.

Osaka-Nara Railway, 324.

Okkai, 171.

Osawa, 198.

Okubo (Shikoku), 373, 375.

Oshamambe, 416.

Okubo, Azalea Gardens, 95.

Oshima (Kishu), 275.

Okubo Hikozaemon, 263.

Oshima (Vries Island), 111.

Okubo Toshimichi, 74.

Oshima (Yezo), 423.

Okuni-nushi, 31.

Oshio, 429.

Okushiri, 423.

Oshu Kaido. 191, 200.

Okute, 274.

Oshuku, 199.

Okyo, 44.

Osore-zan, 201.

dmachi, 238.

Ota, 274.

Omae-saki, 275.

Ota Dokwan, 67.

Omagari, 204.

Otama-ga-ike, 106.

Omama, 151.

Otani, 269, 318.

0-Manago, 166 ; 164.

Ota Nobunaga, shrine of, 292.

Ome, 125. •

Otaru, 423.

Ome Hikage Kaidd, 126.

Otataneko, 333.

Ome Kaido, 125 ; 93.

Otoko-yama, 314.

Omi Hakkei, 318.

Otoku, 149.

Omine, 338.

Otome-toge, 103.

Omiya (in Chichibu), 139.

Otsu, 319 ; 269.

Omiya Junction, 140.

Outline tours, 48.

Omiya (Tokaido), 259 ; 121, 128.

Owada, 174.

Omiya Hachiman, 94.

Ovvaki-dani, 100.

Omogawa, 127.

Owami springs, 182.

Onahama, 188.

Owari Bay, 245, 275.

Omono-gawa, 204.

Oyama (mountain), 61.

Omori, 63.

Oyama (North Ky.), 192; 150. Oyama (Tokaido Ry.), 259.

Omura, 897 ; 390.

Omuro (on Ho-d-zan), 134.

Oya shirazu Ko shirazu, 119.

Omnro Gosho, 294.

Ozaka, 288.

Omurb-zan, 109.

Ozawa-tdge, 431-.

Omuta, 393.

Ozu, 375.

Onamuji, 31, 849, 350.

Ongagawa, 391.

Oni-ga-j6, 345.

P

Oni-no-ike, 406,

Ono, 422.

Palace (Hakone), 105.

Onogawa, 235.

Palace (Kashiwabara), 832.

Onoki, 246.

Palaces (Kyoto), 287, 289, 295, 309.

Onogoro-jima, 354.

Palace (Tokyo), 75.

Ouomichi, 363.

Palmer, Major-Gen., 54.

Ono-niimachi, 188.

Paper Money, 5.

Ono no Takamura, 151, 253.

Pappenberg, 380.

Onsen, 386.

Pariahs, 88.

Onsen-ga-take, 388.

Passports, 3.

Ontake, 238 ; 231, 236.

Peak (Hakodate), 416, 417.

Cnuki, 178.

Perry, Commodore, 60 ; 1, 35, 54, 111.

Index,

455

PIB& STATION

Pier Station, 228.

Piratori, 425.

Plains of Heaven, 58.

Plymouth Bocks, 276.

Population, 47.

Poronai, 424.

Posts, 5.

Potteries, 242.

Pownall, C. A. W., Pref,

Provisions, 9.

Purchases, 12.

" Purification " of temples, 22.

Kailways, 11. Baiko, 345. Kakan, 81. Basho-mon, 297, 345. Bausu-zan, 423. " Regular Routes," 4. Reiheishi Kaido, 140, 152. Rein, Dr. J. J., Pref. 2, 317. Rendaiji, 111. Rin Shihei, 210. Rinzaiji, 262. Rinzenji, 273. Roads, 11. Rock Island, 275. Rokken, 245. Rokko-san, 282. Rokujuri-goe, 205, 432. Rokumei-kwan, 75. Rokuren, 861. Roshana Butsu, 300. . Russian Cathedral, 75. Ryo Daishi, 83. Ryogoku-bashi, 96. Ryomo Railway, 150. Ryoseki, 373. Ryo-un-kaku, 87. Byugeji, 261. Ryuzai-toge, 336. Ryuzan-jita, 238. Ryuzu-ga-taki, 166.

s

Sado, 226.

Saga, 896.

Sagami peninsula, 60.

Saga no Shakado, 295.

Saidaiji, 331.

SABtJHASHI

Saigawa, 220.

Saigo, 44, 401, 407.

Saijo, 366, 375.

Saijoji, 104.

Sai^o, 67, 287.

Sail Rock, 423.

Sai-no-kawara, 149.

Saitama, 140.

Saiiki, 404.

Sakai (Matsue), 349.

Sakai (Mikuni), 228.

Sakai (near Fuchu), 93, 94.

Sakai (near Osaka), 280, 344.

Sakamoto (Lake Biwa), 319, 323.

Sakamoto (Nakasendo), 271.

Sakanashi, 401.

Sakashita, 240.

Sakata, 205.

Sakawa-gawa, 100.

Sakayori, 173.

Sakon no sakura, 290.

Sakunami, 202.

Sakura, 174.

Sakurai, 333.

Sakurajima, 408.

Sakura Sogoro, 174.

Sambe-yama, 351.

Sambongi, 201.

Sambon-matsu, 245.

Sammai-bashi, 105.

Sandanda, 395.

Sanetomo, 47.

Sangu Tetsudo, 246.

San-gwatsu-do, 327.

San-indo, 347.

Sanjo, 225.

Sanjo, Prince, 79.

San-ju-rok-ka-sen, 80.

San-ju-san-gen-do, 299.

San-kei, 209, 347.

Sanno, 31.

San-no-he, 201.

Sannomiya, 269, 279.

San-no-sawa, 149.

Sanno temple, 74.

Sano (Temmyo), 150.

Sano (Tokaido Bailway), 259, 107.

Sanyo Railway, 358.

Sapporo, 424.

Saratoga Spit, 275.

Sarufuto, 425.

Saruhashi, 124.

454

Index.

8ABUSAW1.

Sarusawa no Ike, 330.

Sarushima, 58.

Saruta-yama, 383.

Saru-tora-hebi, 316.

Sasebo, 385.

Sashide, 140.

Satake Yashiki, 87.

Satomi Awa-no-kami, 97.

Satow, Ernest, Pref., 25.

Satsuma Rebellion, 45, 401, ct pass.

Sawai, 126.

Sawara, 176.

Sawatari, 147, 149.

Sects, 25.

Seido, 77.

Seishikaga, 427.

Seiryuji, 295.

Seizu-Gwaisha, Pref.

Seki (Kwansei Ry.), 254, 245.

8eki (near Yokohama), 58.

Sekido, 93.

Seki-ga-hara, 268.

Sekigawa, 223.

Sekimoto, 104.

Sekiya, 182.

Sekiya, Professor, 185.

Sekiyama (near Sendai), 202, 203.

Sekiyama (Naoetsu Ry.)» 225.

Semi-maro, 819.

Seminary (at Kdya-san), 343.

Semiyama, 374.

Semmaya, 215.

Sendai, 195 ; 9.

Sendai-gawa, 410.

Sendai Hagi, 196.

Sengen, 31.

Sengen temple, 262.

Seugen-toge, 140.

Sengen-yama, 99.

Sengoku-hara, 103.

Senjo-ga-hara, 166.

SenjG-ga-take, 345.

Senkoji, 354.

Sen-no-Rikyii, 286.

Sen-yuji, 299.

Senzau, 353.

Senzoku, 92.

Senzu, 112.

Sessho^gawara, 149.

Sessho-seki (Nasuno), 184.

Sessho-seki (Nikko), 163.

Sesshu, 45.

SUINJIKU

Seta, 320.

Seto, 242, 268.

" Seven High IMountains," 268.

Seven Isles of Izu, 111.

Shaka>ga-take, 338.

Shaka Muni, 31.

Shakotan, 423.

Shakuj6-ga-take, 254.

Shana, 427.

Shari, 428.

Sharihotsu, 32.

Shari-yama, 280.

Shiba, 68.

Shiba Onko, 175.

Shibetcha, 427.

Shibetsu, 428.

Shibu, 149.

Shibukawa, 171.

Shibuta, 344.

Shibutami, 200.

Shichi Fukujin, 32.

Shichimen-zan, 130.

Shichi-no-he, 201.

Shigeoka, 405.

Shigi-sen, 324.

Shi-gwatsu-do, 327.

Shiken-jaya, 336. •

Shikine, 113.

Shikoku, 371.

Shima (near Ikao), 147.

Shimabara, 389.

Shimashima, ^20, 235.

Shimizu, 261.

Shimmachi (Kyushu), 405.

Shimmachi (near Nagano), 287.

Shinmiachi (near Takasaki), 140.

Shinunei-mae, 68.

Shimoda, 111.

Shimodate, 172.

Shimo-Gamo, 312.

Shimohara, 236.

Shimomura, 126.

Shimonoseki, 366.

Shimonoseki Affair, 365.

Shimonoseki Straits, 361.

Shimo-no-Suwa, 271.

Shimosa, 171.

Shinagawa, 63.

Shinano-gawa, 221.

Shinano-toge, 234.

Shin-Fuji, 92.

Shinjiku-Hachidji Railway, 94.

Index.

455

SHINJIKU JUNCTION

Shinjiku Junction, 64.

Shinjiko Lagoon, 349.

Shinjo (in Uzen), 203.

Shinjo (on Hamana Lagoon), 264.

Shinka-den, 332.

Khinnyo-do, 312.

Shinobazu, 80.

Shinobu Mojizuri, 193.

Shinobu-yama, 193.

f5hinran Shonin, 46, 74.

i^hiuto religion, 21.

Shinto revival school, 248, 332.

Shin-yu (Hakone), 102.

Shin-yu (Tochinoki), 402.

Shiobara, 182.

Shiogama (near Sendai), 209 ; 196.

Shiogama (Shiobara), 182.

Shiokawa, 429.

»Shiojiri, 272.

8hiokoshi, 206.

Shio Misaki, 276.

Shionada, 271.

Shio-no-ue, 131.

Shionoyu, 182.

Shipment of curios, 13.

Shirahama, 181.

Shiraishi, 194.

8hiraka\va, 192.

iShirakawa valley, 233.

Shirane-san CKoshu), 133.

Shirane-san (Kusatsu), 150»

Shirane-san (Nikko), 170; 106.

Shiraoi, 426.

Shiribetsu, 423.

Shiriuchi, 421.

Shiroyama, 407.

Shishido, 109.

Shita Kaido, 274.

Shi-Tenno, 32.

Shizuku-ishi, 199.

Shizuoka, 262.

Shodaiji, 331.

Shodo Shonin, 153 ; IfiO.

Shogun-zuka, 306.

Shaji, 120.

Shomu Tenno, 329.

Shunai, 206.

Shokonsha, 75.

Shooting, 14.

Shotoku Taishi, 46.

Shoun, 88.

Shozuka no Baba, 29.

SUZUKAWA

Shozushima, 366, 369.

Shubun, 46.

Shugaku-in, 314 ; 287.

Shusui, 174.

Shuten Doji, 345.

Shuzenji, 110.

Simon Condera, 392.

Skeleton tours, 48.,

Sobo-san, 404.

Soga Brothers, 101, 106.

Soga no Iruka, 336.

Soida, 394.

Soma-yama, 146.

Soneiji, 97.

Sonobe, 344.

Sonogi, 390.

Sori, 169.

Soscn, 46.

Somen no taki, 160, 161.

Soya, 428.

Spex Straits, 362.

Sport, 14.

Steam communication, 2, etpass.

Steamer voyages, 276, 359.

Subashiri, 117 ; 116.

Suburban Railway, 64.

Sugawara-no-Michizane, 32, 327.

Sugita, 69.

Suinin Tenno, tumulus of, 326.

Sujin Tenno, tumulus of, 334,

Sukagawa, 170.

Sukumo-gawa, 106.

Sukuna-Blkona, 32.

Suma, 281.

Sumaki, 183.

Sumida-gawa, 89.

Sumiyoshi ^near Kobe), 269, 282. .

Sumiyoshi (near Osaka), 286.

^Lgummer resorts, 12. ^^^Sum

Sumoto, 364 ; 353. Sun-Goddess, 27, 22, 248. Suruga-dai, 76. Susaki no Benten, 89. Susa-no-o, 32, 351. Suwa (near Kusatsu), 149. Suwa Lake, 272. Suvrara, 273. ^uwa-yama (Kobe), 280. Suyama, 118. Suzukawa, 269 ; 121, 128.

456

Index.

TABATAMA

T&bajftma, 127.

Tabiishi-yama, 850.

Tachibana-ura, 374.

Tachikawa, 94, 125.

Tadotsu, 366.

Tagawa-yu, 207.

Tago-no-ura, 260.

Taguchi, 223.

Taiko Hideyoshl, 38.

Taik5-yama, 102.

Taisanji, 281.

Talshaku, 32.

Tai-no-ura, 181.

Taira, 188.

Tajikara-o, 248.

Tajimi, 243.

Takaboko, 380.

Takachiho-dake, 409.

Takada, 331.

Takahara-gawa, 232.

Takahara-yama, 183.

Takahira, 171.

Takama no hara, 177.

Takamatsu, 367.

Takami-toge, 339.

Takamori, 404.

Takao, 182.

Takaoka (near Hacbioji), 229.

Takaozan, 95.

Takao-zan (near Kyoto), 294.

Takara-dera, 314.

Takara-zoka, 281.

Takasaki, 140.

%kasaki-Yokokawa Bailway, 140.

Takase, 393.

Takashima, 384.

Takata, 225.

Takata no Gob5, 257.

Takatori, 337.

Takatori-yama, 281.

Takayama, 233.

Takeda, 400.

Takeda Shingen, 122.

Takefu, 228.

Take-mikazuchi, 177, 326.

Takenouchi no Sukune, 46.

Takeo, 391.

Takeshita, 405.

Takeioyo, 246.

TEN PROVINCE PASS

" Tales of Old Japan," 174, 282.

Tamagawa, 93.

Tamagawa valley, 125.-

Tama-yori-hime, 813.

Tamuke-yama, 327.

Tamura Maro, 210, 305

Tanabe Sakuro, 318.

Tanegawa, 398.

Tani, General, 401.

Tanjoji, 181.

Tanno, 375.

Tanoara, 365.

Tan-yu, 40.

Tanzawa, 100, 102, 104.

Tariff, 3.

Tar6bo,"116.

Tarui, 268.

Tateishi, 398.

Tateno-mura, 402.

Tateishi-zaki, 228.

Tateoka, 203.

Tateshina-yama, 138.

Tateyama (Boshu), 180.

Tateyama (Etchu), 231.

Tatsuta, 326.

Tatta, 326.

Tawara Toda Hidesato, 320.

Tawara-zaka, 394.

Taya no Ana, 60.

Tea-houses, 8.

Telegraphs, 5.

Temiya, 428.

Temmangu, 32.

Temmyo, 150.

Tempai-zan, 393.

Temple architecture, 28, 26.

Te-nazuchi, 351.

Tendo, 202.

Tenga-jaya, 286.

Tenjin, 82.

Tenjin-toge, 147^

Tenjin temple (Osaka), 284.

Tenjin-yama, 179.

Tenjin Teuuo, tumulus of, 318.

Tenkai Daisojo, 159.

Tennoji, 285.

Tenno no Mori, 355.

Tenno-zan, 314.

Tenoko, 430.

Tenryu-gawa, 240, 264.

Tenryiiji, 295.

Ten Province Pass, 106, 108.

Index.

457

TERADOMASI

Teradomari, 225.

Terai, 228.

Tesshuji, 261.

Thirty-three Places of Kwannon,

253. Toba, 251. Toba Sojo, 46. Tochigi, 150. Todaiji, 328 ; 82. Todohokke, 420. Tofukuji, 299. Togakushi-san, 222. Togo-ike, 349. Toji, 297. Toji-in, 293. Tokaido, 257 ; 105, 110. Tokei, 63,67. Tokimata, 240. Tokitsu, 383. Tokiwa, 41.

Tokugawa Shoguns, 39, 68. Tokudhima, 373. Tokusue, 395. * Tokyo, 63, 67 ; 3, 8, 9. Tokyo Fu, 68. Tokyo-Takasaki- Yokokawa Railway,

140. Tokyo- Yokohama Railway, 62. Tomakomai, 425. Tomari, 348. Tombs of the Shoguns, 68, 83, 155,

158. Tomioka (near Yokohama), 59. Tomioka (Shikoku), 374. Tomiyama, 210. Toncgawa, 192 ; 64. Tono, 215.

Tonoki, 138. >

Tonokuchi, 184, 194. Touomine, 385. *

ToDosawa, 99. Tora Gozen, 101. •

Torigawa, 320. Torii-toge (Kusatsu), 150. Torii-toge (Nakasendo), 272. Toro, 427. Tosu, 393, 396. Tosawa, 109. Toshima, 113. Toshogfi, 33, 72. Totomi, 265. Totsuka, caves of, 60.

UEDA

Tottori, 348.

Toyama (Etchu), 230, 281. Toyama (Nikko), 161. Toyohashi, 265. Toyohira, 424. Toyokuni no Yashiro, 301. Toyokuno, 253. Toyooka, 348. Toyo-uke-bime, 33, 248. Toyono, 222 ; 149. Toyoura, 865. Travelling expenses, 7. Treaty limits, 3. Treaty ports, 3. Tsu, 252 ; 246. Tsubarai, 136. Tsuboi, S., 96. Tsuboya, 408. Tsuchizaki, 203. Tsuda Sanzo, 319. Tsugaru Fuji, 208. Tsugaru Straits, 415. Tsugaru-zaka, 209. Tsugawa, 186. Tsuge (Kwansei Ry.), 254. Tsuge (Kyushu), 404, 411. Tsukigase, 330, 336. Tsukiji, 90 ; 67. Tsukuba, 172. Tsukue, 367. Tsumago, 274. ,

Tsuna, Watanabe no, 345. Tsunagi, 429. Tsunomiya, 176. Tsuri-bashi, 128. Tsuruga, 228. Tsuru-ga-oka, 205, 431. Tsurugi-saki, 275. Tsurugi-yama, 375. Tsurumi-yama, 399. Tsurusaki, 406. Tsushima, 411, 412. Tsutaki, 137. Tsuyutare Pass, 138, 139. Tumuli, 332 ; 326, 829, 334, 355, et pass.

Ubago, 102. Udo, 404. Udoma, 113. Ueda, 220.

u

458

Index.

UEKI

Ueki, 394.

Ueno, 79.

Uenohara, 124.

Uesugi Konshin, 122, 194.

Uesugi Norizane, 151.

Uji (near Kyoto), 315.

Uji (Yamada), 246.

Uke-mochi no Kami, 33, 248.

Ukon no tachlbana, 290.

Uma-gaeshi (Fuji), 116.

Uma-gaeshi (Nikko), 1C4.

Umba-ga-take, 432.

Umewaka, 87.

Ume-yashiki, 89.

Ijmidaira,'l07.

Umijiri (Hakone), 102.

XJmijiri (Iwasake Gorge), 138.

XJmi-no-kuchi, 139.

University, 77.

Unna, 24i.

Uno, 339.

Unzen, 380.

Uomi, 109.

Uotsu, 230.

Uraga, 60.

Uraga Channel, 275.

Urakami, 383.

Urami, 162.

Urashima, 346 ; 273.

Urawa, 140.

XJreshino, 390.

Usa-no-Hachiman, 398.

Usu, 423, 425.

Usui, 174.

Usui Pass, 140, 142.

Utsubusa, 128.

Utsunomiya, 192.

Uwajima, 375.

Uzumasa, 294.

Uzura, 422.

Uzu-toge, 430.

\r

Venus Hill, 382. Vladivostock, 412. Volcano Bay, 425. Vriea Island, 111.

w

Wada (Ito), 109, 111. Wada (Nakasendo),. 271. Wada (near Tateyauia), 180.

TAMASHINA

Wada-no-ha, 212. Wada-toge, 271. Wakamatsu, 187. Waka-no-ura, 344. Wakasa-no-I, 328. Wakasare-no-Chaya, 144. Wakayama, 344. Wakimachi, 373. Wakura, 229. Wakuya, 196. Walter, James, 60. Wami-toge, 144. Washi-ga-su, 207. Washizu, 265. Watarase-gawa, 168. Weights and measures, 5. West coast, 227 ; 3, 9. Weston, Rev. Walter, Pref. Whitney, Dr. W. N., Pref., 6. Will Adams, 59, 283, 286.

Xavier, St. Francis, 33, 36, 400.

Yabake Valley, 393.

Yabuhara, 273.

Yachigashira, 417.

Ya-daijin, 24.

Yaegaki Jinja, 351.

Yagami, 389.

Yainai-cho, 335.

Yakeyama (Yezo), 419.

Yakeyama peninsula, 201.

Yakushi-dake, 135.

Yakushi-ji, 331.

Yakushi Nyorai, 33.

Yamada (Ise), 246 ; 244.

Yamada (N.E. coast), 215.

Yamada-toge, 150.

Yamae, 394.

Yamagata, 202, 205.

Yamagata (near Bandai-san), 184,

194. Yamaguchi, 365. Yamakita, 259. Yamanojo, 410. Yamaoka Tetsutaro, 261. Yamashina, 318.

Index.

459

TAMASHIBO

Yamashiro, 228. Yamato, through, 331. Yamato-meguri, 334. Yamato-take, 46, 143. Yamura, 124. Yanagizawa-mura, 199. Yao, 324.

Yari-ga-take, 236; 231. Yasaka, 32. Yasaka Pagoda, 305. Yashiro (Naoetsu Ry.), 220. Yashiro (Kyushu), 409. Yasuhira, 47. Yasukuni temple, 74. Yata no JizO, 311. Yatsu-ga-take, 139. Yatsushiro, 404. Yawata (Shikoku), 373. Yawata (near Tokyo), 174. Yebisu, see Ebisu. Yedo, 89, 63, 67. Yezo, 413 ; 12, 15. Yodogawa, 284, 316. Yoichi, 423. Yoio no Mori, 252. Yoita, 226. Yoka-ichiba, 131. Yokkaichi, 246 ; 244. Yokogawa, 410. Yokohama, 53 ; 3. Yokokawa, 142. Yokose, 375. Yokosuka, 69. Yokote, 204. Yokoya, 148. Yonago, 349. Yonezawa, 194, 429, 430. Yorii, 139.

Yoritomo, 46, 47, 55, 158. Yoshida, (near Fuji), 117, 124. Yoshida (Kyushu), 410. Yoshida no Yasluro, 312. Yoshiie, 198. Yoshijima Jinja, 337. Yoshino, cape, 421. Yoshino (Koshil Kaido), 124. Yoshino (in Yamato), 336. Yoshino-gawa, 336.

ZUSHI

Yoshioka, 421.

Yoshitsune, 47.

Yoshiwara, 87.

Yudono-san, 205, 432.

Yuensan, 412.

Yubutsu, 425.

Yufu, 399.

Yu-ga-shima, 110, 111.

Yugyo-dera, 258.

Yujima (Hayakawa valley), 132.

Yukiai-gawa, 57.

Yume no Uki-hashi, 299.

Yumoto, (Hakone), 98.

Yumoto (Ikao), 146.

Yumoto (Nikko), 166.

Yumoto (near Tateyama), 238.

Yumura, 348.

Yu-no-hana-zawa, 101.

Yunokawa, 418.

Yunosawa (Hakodate), 418.

Yunosawa (Karuizawa), 144.

Yu-no-taki, 166.

Yunotan, 402.

Yunotani, 373.

Yura (in Awaji), 354 ; 276, 352.

Yura (on Sea of Japan), 346.

Yuragawa, 346.

Yurappu, 415.

Yushima, 348.

Yushu-kwan, 75.

Yutenji, 92.

Zaragoe, 238. Zaru-ga-dake, 132. Zempukuji, 74. Zeni-kake-matsu, 253. Zenki and Goki, 338. Zenkoji, 221. Zenshoji, 281. Zeze, 320. Zdjoji, 71. Zo-o-do, 337. Zoological Gardens, 83. Zuijin, 24. Zushi, see Dzuslii.

ERRATA AND ADDENDA,

P. 63. — Under Steam CiynMnunicaiion, note that Samuel, Samuel & Co. are now the Agents for the ' Shire ' line of steamers, and Dodwell, Carlill & Co. for the ' Castle ' line, instead of Adamson, Bell A Co.

P. 54. — Under Newspapers, add 'The Japan Daily AdverHaer' and ' The Box of Curios.'

P. 63. — Under Hotels, note that the Imperial Hotel is now also styled the TeUcoku Hotel.

P. 73, 1. 3 from bottom of left col. Note that the wooden Kiri- shima-yama is being demolished.

P. 99, 1. 18. For hiji-mono, read hiji-^mono,

P. 186, 1. 2. For 1873, read 2783.

P. 194. — Under Bandai-aan, note that the first night should be spent at Hibara, and the excursion over Bandai be made on the next day.

P. 288, 1. 3 from bottom of left col. After Katmrw^nc'Rikyu, add

Nishi Hongwanji and Higashi Hongwanji.

ADVERTISEMENTS.

Advertisements.

mmi lem,

LIMIXED.

Dos. U, U, Bniid,

aid 20. Moliaia.

THE TABLE D'HOTE

^irsi-ffass ^rench ^hef de ^ttisine.

Large Dising Room will seat 300 Guests.

TJBLE TOES, BORDEAUX, BOURCOTIE Am CMMPAGHE.

The BEADING and BILLIARD ROOMS are oi Lottj and Spacioua dimensions and afford a pleasant retreat for guests during their' stay.

No espenae has been spaced, and particular care has been taken by tlie Company in the construction of the New Building to adopt the latest SAHITAET IMPROVEMENTS. The BATHS, ESPECIALLY, are unanrpassed.

Unlimited accommodation for BANQUETS and PRIVATE DIN- NEE PARTIES, at the shortest notice.

A STEAM LAUNCH, under European superrision, attends all out- going and incoming Steamers, thus ensuring the safe transit of Passen- gers' luggage through the Customs and conveyauce to the Hotel, without trouble to the owners.

The Grand Hotel, Limited.

LOUIS EPPINGER, MANAGER.

Advertisements,

NOTICE.

We the Tindersiffned guides of Yokohama and Kol^e, have Ijanded ourselves toge- ther to form an association called "KAIYUSHA," We have been prompted to this by the constant increase of travellers through Japan and the difficulty which has often been experienced in securing competent and trustworthy guides.

' We now hope at all times to be able to supply demand and also obviate difficulties which in the past have marred the pleasure of tourists.

The company holds itself responsible for the character and ability of all ^ide* supplied and respectfully solicits the patronage of tourists.

In order to avoid delay and inconvenience we request tourists to apply for the services of a guide tweuty-fouf hours before they wish to start co. a long excursion, and two or three hours before a short trip.

Guides can meet travellers at any place, if requested to do so by letter or telegram. If any particular guide is desired and mentioned in the application he will respond, if not otherwise engaged.

TERMS:' One dollar per day for a party of one or two toimsts: over two, twenty-fiye cents added for each tourist.

In all cases the guide's travelling expenses must be paid by employer and he is to- be allowed one dollar per day additional for his hotel expenses.

NAMES OF LICENSED GDIDES :

GRAND HOTEL AND CLUB HOTEL,

YOKOHAMA.

T. Ito.

S. Suzuki.

K. Matsuda.

S. Ohashi.

F. Takagaki.

Tetsuzo Yoshida.

W. MuTO.

K. T. FuKUVAMA, (or Tora.)

Nakajima Katsu.

Tajima Kobe.

Y. F. Shimidzu.

HiRATA MaTSU.

B. Kaito.

OSHIMA MiTSU.

Kato Fuji. S. Hattori.

HiRATA OtO.

T. HoRi (or Hakodate).

Assistants.

S. Okumura. K. Hashimoto.

HI060 HOTEL, ORIENTAL HOTEL AND HOTEL DES COLONIES,

KOBE. T. KiMOTO.

K. Yajima.

K. ISAKI.

S. Ito.

K. Yamamoto. H. Yamato. Y. Yamaguchi.

Assistants. G. Ogawa. T. Nakamura.

NO. 71, MOTOMACHI,

Ichome,

KAIYUSHA OFFICES

NO. 211, MOTOMACHI,

Ichome,

Advertisements,

THE

anccB ii^offletxi.

XiI^VCITBU.

TokobamaBrancli, Mo. 5-b, Bond Central. I Tokyo Branch, Mo. 1, Tsnkyi.

THE YOKOHAMA BRANCH:

TMb FiFMt €Mm M&tel

Situated on the Bund Central, in the centre of the pri^cipal Business Localities, commands a- magniJ&cent view of the Harbour and sur- rounding scenery.

The Booms being well ventilated, commodious, and furnished with

<every requisite, afford most desirable accommodation. The £1lectbio

Light has recently been placed in all the Buildings.

kHt ?miE.O UP \n ^ S\lPtR\OR VKKUHtK.

WINES AND LIQUORS

Of the Best Qualities and Brands only are Supplied.

THE TOKYO BRANCH

Is beautifully situated on the sea-board and the premises have been lately redecorated and elegantly furnished. The Electric Light is laid on in all the rooms. The grounds are well and artistically planned and the Hotel is within ten minutes ride from the Shimbashi Station.

It Tokobama tbe Steam Launch attends all Anrivals & Departures.

Advertisements.

J^mji\m § $%»<t0liai |p»tt^ttt0 €<ri^|rmtlirt{.

PAID-UP CAPITAL $9,296,677.07

xb£S£AV£ f^uT^D • « $6,806,596.31

KESERVE LIABILITY OF PROPRIETORS $9,296,677.07

Xlead Offices IIOIVOKLO^O.

Chief Manager F. De BOVXS, Esq.

Manager . . .

THOMAS JACKSON, Esq.

Bankers-LOXBON & COUNTY BANKING COMPANY, Limited.

IS II A. IV O II A. I •

Manager ...

••• ••• ••• ••• %

r. P. WADE GAE

DNER, Esq.

BRATVOIIE© ANI> AOENOIES.

London,

Bombay,

Manila,

Amoy,

Lyons, '

Calcutta,

Iloilo,

Tientsin,

Hambubo,

Singapore,

FOOCHOW,

HlOGO,

New York,

Saioon,

Bangkok,

Batavia,

San Francisco,

Shanghai,

Hankow,

Penang.

YOltOHAMA BHANCII.

Interest allowed on Current Accounts at 2 % on Daily Balances oV^r 9500. On Fixed Deposits, for 12 months At 5 %

»t

99

Fixed Deposits, Fixed Deposits,

6

»

>»

••• ... ...

••• ••• ••!

99

99

4 %

30/ /o

LOCAL BILLS DISCOUNTED.

Credits granted on approved Securities, and every descripti<$n of Banking and Exchange business transacted.

Drafts n*anted on London and the Chief Commercial places in Europe, In£a, Australia, America, China, and Japan, Circular Notea issued for the use of Travellers.

K. M. BEVIS, Manager*

Adcertisements,

THE

-o/^P'nc:;;?^

•r,

■^v"

CORPORATION, LIMITED.

Authorized Capital Paid Up Capital •■•

£2,000,000

£ 600,000

• • • • c

(Incorporated tinder the Companies Acts 1882 to 1883.)

MGISTERED OFFICE, 40, THREADHEEDLE STREET, LOHDOB, E.C.

WEST END OFFICE, 25, COCKSPUR STREET, LONDON, W.

iiriA.]voiiii:sj

Aden,

Edinburgh,

Maubitius,

YOKOHAICA,

Bombay,

Hongkong,

Melbourne,

Zanzibar.

Calcutta,

HiOGO (Kobe),

Shanghai,

Ceylon,

Madras,

Singapore,

Dundee,

Make,

Sydney,

BANK OF ENGLAND;

THE UNION BANK OF LONDON, Limited;

THE BANK OF SCOTLAND (Edinburgh, London, and Branches.)

Chief Matiager R. T. ROHDE, Esq.

8uh Mmiager JOHN PATERSON, Esq.

Credits granted. Remittances, Exchange, Loahs, and every descrip- tion of Banking business transacted.

YOKOHAMA BRANCH.

Interest Allowed;

On Current Accounts, On Daily Balance ..

2 7c

On Fixed Deposit for 12 months 5 7

6 „ 47 3 „ 3 7,

if

f*

»»

*»

D. FBASEB, Manager.

Advertisements.

Head Office: HAHON COURT, THREADNEEDLE STREET^LONDOM .

INCORPORATED BY ROYAL CHARTER.

PAID-UP CAPITAL, in 40,000 Shares of ^20 each... EESERVE LIABILITY OF SHAREHOLDERS ... RESERVE FUND

I • • • • •

.. ^800,000. .. ^800,000.' .. ^300,000-

Pari$. Messieui*8 Offboy & Co. Holland. /"Messrs. Hope & Co. AmBter-j Messrs. Webthibim: & Gompebtz. dam ) Bank of Amstsbdam.

vNetheblakd Tbading Socibtt. Rotterdam — Bank of Rottebdam.

Germany. Berlin and Frankfort — Deutsche Bank. 5remc?i— Messrs. Widow J. Lang's 8on&Co.

hura \ ^^ssrs. J. Bebenbebo Gossleb & Co.

United State* and Canada,

Toronto Jf [-Canadian Bank op Comubbcb. Montreal )

I Anglo Calipobnian Bank, L*d, Bank op Califobnia. Bank op Bbitish Columbia. London & San Fbancisco Bank,L*i>.

Chicago— 'Fivjar National Bank op Chicago.

Philadelphia — Tbad£Smsks.NationalBahx.

BOMBAY. CALCUTTA. AKYAB. BANGOON.

Agencies and Branches. PBNANG. BATAVIA.

THAIPING. SINGAPORE. KWALA LUMPOR.

SOURABAYA.

MANILA.

HONGKONG.

FOOCHOW. SHANGHAI. HANKOW. YOKOHAMA.

Kobe (Hiogo)

Nagasaki -

Colombo

Madras

Saigon

Ainoy

Zanzibar -

- Messrs. Browne & Co.

- Messrs. Holme> Ringer & Co.

- Messrs. Alstons Scott & Co. ' Bank of Madras.

- Messrs. Speldel & Co.

- Messrs. Tait & Co.

- Messrs. JIansing &, Co.

The Bank has Agents also in all the principal towns in Australia, New Zealand and Netherlands India. Drafts granted on all the above Agencies and Branches, Travellers' Letters of Credit issued. Bills of Exchange purchased and received for collection, and every description of Banking business transacted.

J. R. PARSONS,

Yokohama, 1891. Agent, Yokohama,

8 Advertisements.

A. FARSARI & Co.,

No. i6, BUND.

BETWEEN THE GRUD HOTEL, L'i, UDDEAKDI BROS. & Co., L'd.

Portraits — Groups— Houses.

Beproductions— Bnlargements.

Inatantataneous Photographs.

Transparencies— Xjantem Slides.

Portraits in Coistomes.

We have suitable dresses for Ladies and Gentlemen, and furniture; jinrikislia, etc., for taking portraits and groups in Japanese costume. "No extra charge is made for these.

THE BEST PHOTOSRAPHS OF VIEWS AND COSTUMES OF JAPAN.

We are the only photographic artists in Japan who have been accorded permission to take views of the Imperial Gardens (Fitkiage) in Tokio.

In consequence we are in possession of the most beautiful and complete set of negatives of views of places generally visited by tourists and residents.

As we are sure that, when our photographs have been compared with others, one wiU not purchase elsewhere, we respectfully request that every studio in Yokohama be visited by intending purchasers before making a selection.

The colors were carefully noted at the time that photos of temples and other structures were taken, and we are the only ones who paint them as they really are.

We also call particular attention to the fact, that we are the only photographers that deliver pictures equally ^s well painted as those exhibited in our sample albums or frames.

Photographic printing hy permanent processes done only by us.

NOTICE TO AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHERS.

We have a dark room free of charge at the disposal of amateur photographers.

Developing negatives taken by amateurs on plates or film, and printing promptly done at moderate prices.

We guarantee the permanency of all our photographs, which are made of the best imported materials.

Advertisements,

NIPPON

ttsen

mnhu.

CAPITAL

$11,000,000.

PRESIDENT

M. MORIOKA,

Esq.

VICE-PRESIDENT

T. YOSHIKAWA,

Esq.

DIRECTOR

K. XJCHIDA,

Esq.

»f

M. ASADA,

Esq.

»»

R. KONDO,

Esq.

ft • . . • • •

M. KATO,

Esq.

M •

A. MACMILLAN

Esq. (absent.)

BRANCH OFnCES AT THE PRINCIPAL PORTS IN JAPAN AND AT SHANGHAI,

FUSAN,.6ENSAN AND JINSEN, AND AGENCIES AT HONGKONG,

CHEFOO, TIENTSIN AND WLADIWOSTOGK.

HEAD OFFICE

TOKYO.

The Japan Mail Steamship Company possesses a fleet of First Class large and full powered steamships, fitted with the latest improve- ments for the comfoyt and convenience of passengers. Steamships carrying the Imperial Japanese Mail leave Yokohama and Shanghai, via Kobe, the Inland Sea and Nagasaki once a week; and between Nagasaki, Corean Ports, Chefoo, Tientsin and Wladiwostock according to time-tables. The home service comprises almost daily communication between the chief ports of the Empire, for aU of which foreign travellers may procure passports without difficulty or expense.

For information in regard to freight, passage, sailings, &c., apply at any of the Branches or Agencies, or at the Head Office in Tokyo, where full particulars on aU points may be had.

10 Advertisements.

Canadian Pacific Railway SteamsMps.

CHINA AND JAPAN LINE.

YOKOHAMA TO VANCOUVER, B.C., IN 10 DAYS.

The Royal Mails between HONGKONG, SHANGHAI,

YOKOHAMA and VANCOUVJER, B.C., are carried

by the Company's Steamships

'* EMPRESS OF INDIA " 6,000 Tons, 10,000 Horse Power.

" EMPRESS OP JAPAN " ...6,000 „ 10,000 "EMPRESS OF CHINA*' ...6,000 „ 10,000

These Steamers have been specially built to carry out the Mail Contract with the Imperial Government. They are Twin Screw Vessels of great speed, and the arrangements for Passengers are most complete and luxurious.

■

For farther information^ apply to :

FRAZAR & Co. at Yokohama, Kobe and Nagasaki, Agents in Japan.

DODWELL, CARLILL & Co., Shanghai and Hongkong, Agents in China.

Any Office of the CANADIAN PACIFIC RAILWAY in Canada, United States, or Europe :

And to Messrs. THOS. COOK & SONS, TOURIST AGENTS, with Offices in all Parts of the World.

GEO. B. DODWELL,

Genei'ol Agent, China and Japan, Hongkong, April, 1891.

r

Advertisenunts, 11

YoMama Printing and MlisMng Co.,

LIMITED.

PRINTING OF EVERY DESCRIPTION

EXECUTED AT SHORTEST NOTICE.

The advantage that this Coinpany has over any other ^Printing OflB.ce in Japan for expedition is that it possesses a first class PRINTING MACHINE, by

DRIVEN BY

A PRIESTMAN'S OIL STEAM ENGINE.

'•>o<*-

SHIRT MANUFACTURER.

LISEH AHD WOOLEN PAHERS OF THE LATEST STYLE.

FiMBBi €QMBm €rm^0 MkMM,

SUITABLE FOR SUMMER WEAR.

JJO J^ BENTEN-DORl^NICHOME. Ijg J^

TOKIO,

JAPAN.

TSIS m HOTEL

Is situated within five minutes' tlrivo ot the termiDus of the Yokohama- Tokio railway, and is in nsar prosjmity to the Imperial Palace, the Parliament House, and the chief Public Offices. It is, in fact, in the heart of the best quarter of Tokio, and centrally situated with respect to the chief objects and places of interest in the City and its Suburbs.

■ It is arranged and furnished to aSord visitors every convenience and comfort, under experienced management. In the design and construc- tiou of the buildiug. special attention ha.s keen given to protection against earthquake shocks, according to the best modem scientific practice. The need of a really first-class Hotel, adapted to foraign tastes and requirements, has long been felt by visitors to Japan's Capital. The Imperial Hotel is designed to satisfy that need in the fullest degree. It is unrivalied for its comfort, as well as for its excellent cuisino and wines, at moderate cliarges.

Carriages and Jinrikishas are kept on the Hotel premises, for the use of guesta, at a fixed tariff. There is also a sCafi of guaranteed and akillad guides.

AdvertiMmenU, 13

Airy. Quiet. COMFORTABLE. eottuenieot.

TOKYO HOTEL,

Hibijamon-ucM, Tokyo, Japan.

^^^OCATED near Foreign Legations and Offices, and

V

Close to the Chief Points of Interest, and the Principal Places of Business.

CHARGES MODERATE. "^

MWMAMATBW M&TEL, '

IKAO, JOSHU.

^ HE Proprietor begs to inform the Foreign Public that his k^ Hotel now contains Thirty-five Booms, well Furnished in a most Comfortable and Handsome manner, and suitable to the requirements of Foreign Visitors.

Separate Bath Rooms are also constructed. Fresh and Pure Provisions are daily supplied, imported direct from Tokio and Yokohama ; Wines, Spirits, and Beer, of superior quality are kept always on hand.

The Hotel has made arrangements with undermentioned Banks, so that they may make payments in the receipt notes issued by those Banks.

The Tanaka Bank of Sakamoto-<5ho, Nihonbashi-ku, Tokio, and the Tanaka Branch Bank, Nichome Benten-dori, Yokohama.

Billiard Room, nicely fitted np. | Cbarges Exceedingly Moderate.

HOTEL, UPPER NIKKO,

Taking 10 mlDates b; Ilnrlklslia Inim tlie M Lacquered Bridge.

LARGE AND COMFORTABLE HOTEL,

Just completed, is delightfully situated near the famous Temples

of leyasu and lemitsu, and is but a short distance above the

red lacquered bridge crossing the Daiya river on the road to

Irimaclii.

TME B&BMM ABE MAM&M,

well -ventilated and constructed in European style, are furnished

with Stoves during the Winter months, and can be engaged

either by post and telegram.

MEALS ARE SERVED IN EUROPEAN STYLE.

Advertisement.

%.

VICTORIA GAP, PEAK,

Adjoining the Tramway Terminus.

^HE MOST BEAUTIFUL POSITION IN THE ENVIRONS

tv. of Hongkong, situated 1,250 feet above Sea Level, com- manding Magnificent Views of the City and Harbour of Victoria, the mainland of China, and neighbouring Islands.

Cool Southerly breezes in Summer, with perfect protection from N.E. winds in Winier.

THE BEST ACCOMMODATION FOR VISITORS,

With every Comfort, Convenience, and AtUntion.

THE CTJISIIDTE]

Is undisr the licst aupcrvision, and every luxury oblainahle is supplied.

WIISES, ETC.,

OF TEE BEST BRAKBS MB FISEST {tAUTIES OEY, ABE KEPT. TEEMS MODEEATE.

PEU lOm IBD TRJIBWC COIPiBT, I'D., Proprietors.

16 Advertisements.

ORIENTAL HOTEL,

FIRST-CLASS HOTEL.

CUISINE AND CELLAR.

Steal Lanncli leets all Incoming & Ontgoing Steamers.

L. BEGEUX - - - (Proprietor and Manager.

Tj&k&Kj&uebea hotel,

JAPAN.

THIS FIRST-CLASS HOTEL

Occupies a healthy situation on the hill side, and lies amid some of the most charminj^ scenery to be found in Japan, while the air is universaJ- ly recommended by the Medical faculty for its bracing nature. In <jonn(!ction with the Hotel are some famous HOT IRON BATHS much sought after for their health-giving qualities.

WITH

WINES, BEERS, AND SPIRITS, OF THE BEST QUALITIES,

CAN BE OBTAINED AT REASONABLE TERMS.

TAKARADZUKA is one and a half hour by Rail and JinriJdsha fiom Kobe, and no passports are required.

For terms apply to

A. EUQ'HES, llanageress.

1

AdvertUements,

17

LOO'

^^M:ii

o.

DEALER IN ALL KINDS OP

Of-

zJ^{?Uemm

^anm

Waie^

FINE THIN KIOTO PORCELAIN TEA SETS,

landPaintedPaper Lanterns & Lacquer Fans. (Harked Fixed Prices.)

JVo. 1^, Gion-machi, Kioto, Japan.

E. H. POWERS & Co.,

A^^ GA SAKI.

i^(ssm p COUNTEY PARTIES WILL FIND IT TO THEIR

ADVANTAGE TO CALL ON US AS WE HAVE

r ALL EEQUISITES FOR OUTINGS, VIZ. :—

PmwmmMB #

Cigars, Cigarettes, Tobacco, Wines, Beer, Reading Hatter, ftc, &c., ■ J gents for MESSRS. KELLY & WALSH, LO.

ALL FfiOVISIONS NOT USES CAIT BE BETUBITES.

18

AdvertuemmU,

NozawatA

m

19

No. 80, Bentendobi Nichome, Yokohama.

o

?

Iff

m

A Large Stock of SILKS, CRAPES, BROCADES,

EMBROIDERIES, Japanese Costumes, Specially

made to fit Foreigners,

SASHES, RAINBOW CRAPES,

A Beautiful Fabric, and Handkerchie&, in the Latest Deagns, Always on Hand.

Orders executed with care and promptitude, at

Moderate Prices.

Wholesale and Retail-

NOZAWAYA'S RAINBOW CRAPES.

a

MARK

rp HE best qualities of this beautiful material can only be obtained of NOZAWAYA, -*- by whom a First Class Medal was obtained at the Domestic Industrial Exhibi- tion last year. For delicacy of tint and texture these Rainbow Crapes are unrivalled.^ and have been much admired and extensively purchased by several foreign ladies of distinction, including H.R.H. the DUCHESS of CONNAUGH^T.

IS- CAUTION,

NOZAWAYA begs to inform the Ladies of Yokohama and Tokyo and Visitors to Japan, that it has recently come to his knowledge that IMITATIONS of his CxLXBBATXD Raiitbow C&apks are in the market, and that they liave been palmed off upon the public as the genuine article. Nozawaya therefore invites all who desire the real Rainbow Crapes to pay his Store a visit, where only the genuine material is to be found, all being counterfeit that are not sold with the

TRADC'^MARK.

Advertuemenft.

LacquBr p^olographg,

IH7ENTB!D B7 MR. H. HIZUHO,

SCENERY COSTUMES

COLOURED,.

PHOTOGRAPHS.

TaJain at Low

FliKUSUISHA, Ko. !3, Sakalclio, Ictome, Tokobana.

KOBE PHARMACY AND DISPENSARY,

WWff

No- 3, DIVISION STREET, KOBE

CHEMISTS ANDPHARMACOPOLISTS.

QUALIFIED AND REGISTERED CHEMISTS ONLY.

FerTiiDies, Toilet Articles, Patent Hedicines, Pocket Filters k Sondries.

£ng1iebje French 'Savt\», Boohs an ilapan/Sliittaiicrij & Guide Booha.

igents for Kell; k Valsb, LI, I igents for tbe Official lailvajf <t Booksellers, Sc. | Traiellers' Guile, Ic.

ao

AdverUteitunti.

5

to

0

^

&e

m

§=»

s

^

1

§

^

^ ^

^

^

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5

Advertisenients.

21

THE

§^ronicfe anh pirecfortj

FOR

PIHES. IHDO-CHIMA. STRAITS SEmEHEKTS. SIAM. BORMEO,

1891— 29th Annual Issue.— Royal 8yo. pp. 1,100,

Price £1.5.0.

;^ IVES Historical, Descriptive and Statistical Accounts

^^ and Directories of Sixty Different Ports and

Places in the Far East, and 12 Maps and Plans.

Published at the " Hongkong Daily Pbess '* Office.

To be had through any Bookseller.

c/a

M&A WMTA MBTBEt

B O A

V

I

S

T

H O

T E L

ADMITTED to be the Sanitarium of South China, the best and healthiest spot in the Bishop's Bay, Macao ; A comfortable Home for families and gentlemen desiring to enjoy the benefit of quietness and of a change of air in summer or winter.

Hot, Cold, Shower and Sea Baths.

WELL FURNISHED AIRY BEDROOMS, COMMODIOUS AND WELL VENTIUTED DINING, BILLIARD AND READING ROOMS ;

WELL-STOGKED BAR.

A. SMALL DAIRY ATTACHED TO THE PREMISES.

•S" For Photos, of Hotel, see Eivor Steamer Saloons and

Hotels in the Far East.

B O A

V

I

S

'A

H O

T E L

22 Advertisements.

LACQUER, BRONZES, CROCKERY,

AND

Also Yarions otber Mections of Cnrios, Botb New and Oil Shinmonzen, Mumemoto-cho . . . Kioto, Japan.

Visitors are Invited to Inspect our Stock of Inlaid Iron, Chid Lacqxterings, Cloisonnes, Metal Works, Satsuma Paintings and Decorations.

& tJt .M. ■%# 1l &

39, Higashi-im Miyoshi-cho, Yamato-oji, Ichome, Furumonzen, Kyoto.

LACQUERS, «itJ|)[|iJi^^| CROCKERIES,

...AND...

§i/A Mmbroidme^,

(3&

• • .OF. . •

A FXKS GO)C<li£€7IOH OF OURIOS.

^^ INSPECTION IS COBDTATiIjY INVTTBD.

Advertisements. 28

Z. P. MARUYA & CO,

PUBLISHERS, STATIONERS,

Imerican, EnropeaD, and Oriental Book-sellers, and

Library Agents.

ToiEzio, a"-A.:p.A.isr.

FUBLISEESS OF

HEPBURN'S Japanese-English and English-Japanese Dictionary:

Unabridged Edition. Demy 8vo.,-half Morocco Y. 7.60

Abridged Edition. 12m. cloth 2.00,

WHITNEY'S CONCISE DICTIONARY of the Principal Eoads, Chief Towns and Villages of Japan, with Popula- tions, Post Offices, etc. Crown 8vo. cloth 1.50

Ditto with appendix ... 2.50

INDEX OF CHINESE CHARACTERS in Hepburn's Die tionary arranged to their radicals by W. N. Whitney, M.D.

^^ \7XXA V \j V v/ ■ ••• ••• ••• ••• ••• ••• ••■ ••• ••• ••• ••• ^Ja § %^

IMBRIE'S HAND-BOOK of EngHsh-Japanese Etymology.

Crown 8vo. cloth 1.50

NEW MAP OF TOKIO, with a Guide 0.50

EASTLAKE'S Easy Conversation in English, German, and

«i apanese ... ... ... O.oO

NEMOTO'S New and Practical Vocabulary and CONVERSA- TIONS 'in the English, French, German and Japanese liANlxUAGES 0.25

ARRIVET'S Le<jons de Conversation Japonais-Fran9ais 0.20

„ Dictionnaire Fran9ai8-Japonais 0.70

24

Advertisements,

THE

A. W. THOMPSON,

No. 18, AKASHI-CHO, Mo. 18,

Tsukiji

• Tokyo.

No. 7, Honcho, next door to -the Town Hall, ToMama.

!>

PMograpWc Views & Costumes of Japan.

ALMWM

Lacquered Board or Clotb, Cover Ready for Sale.

Advertisenwits. 2$

0kpsM

No. 9, Gnsoko-cbo, KyobasU-kn, Tokyo.

(L^^me

EGS to announce to the Foreign Public that for over 300 ^^ years the pawn-broking business was carried on at the above store and that, owing to the large quantities of goods deposited in his premises, he opened the above as a fine art store three years ago. The following are for disposal from his extensive stock, at reasonable rates : —

WARLIKE IMPLEMEHT8, OLD COPPER, 60LB JiH0 SIX<?£E ORHAHEHT8,

Cloisonne, Famous Swords, Ivories,

CHOICEST JAPANESE AND CHINESE

poi<c&Iaiii^, pcpeen^, J^ntiqne pci<oII^,

8fcc., 8tc., otc.

Inspection by Foreign Connoisseurs RespectfoOy iniitel

^6 .AdtertiUements,

PATRONIZED BY

H. R. H. THE DUKE OF CONNAUGHT.

North & Rae, L'd.,

ENGLISH AND f'OREIGN

CHEMISTS,

(ESTABJilSHED 1863.)

American, Englisb and Continental Prescriptions Dispensed according to tbelr RespectlTe PharmacopcBlas

Atkinson's, Lxindborg's and Finaud's Ferfiimes. Farina's

Qenuine Eau do Cologne.

« ■ •

Tolldt Bsc[ui§IUs of Et@i7 Sescrlptlos.

All American & European Patent Medicines & Proprietary- Articles of Bepute kept in Stock.

Tourists supplied with all lands of Medical Eeqnisites for

up- Country ' Trips.

MANAGER - - R. W. BORTHWICE.

Advertisements.

KYOTO HOTEL,

siio K&w&jst&m&cmi,

KYOTO.

U. UATEDA Froprietoc.

THIS HOTEL,

Situated in the centre of Kyato, commands a splendid view of all the Mountains surrounding the City. It is built on a spacious plot of ground where was formerly the Office of Com- merce and Agriculture. The locahty is well-known as one of the

moBt convenient parts of the City. The establishment is divided into two parts, — one fine new foreign building luxuriously fur- nished with every European requisite, and the other in elegent e Style. '

Ttie Rooms are weU-ventilated.

WM0 Bmr muMBiMimM M&@m^

ASE FITTED UP IK A SVPEBIOR HANNEB.

THE CUISINE IS CONTROLLED

BY AN EXPERIENCED COOK, AND MEALS ARE SERVED AT ALL HOURS.

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