'^tfnjTK BUREAU OF THE AMERICAN REPUBLICS, WASHINGTON, U, S. A. JOSEPH F". STvlITH, Director. ALASKA. HANDBOOK No. 84. AUGUST, 1897. 6 6 6 9 9 OIlasB 3../.1..9.S .... look Sb^ic.I ret BUREAU OF THE AMERICAN REPUBLICS, WASHINGTON, U. S. A. JOSEPH P. SMITH, Director. ALASKA. ' HANDBOOK No. 84. AUGUST, 1897 t: Li NOTE. The following compilation was prepared as part of the chapter on the United States for the Commercial Directory of the Ameri- So can Republics to be issued by the Bureau of the American •* Republics during the current year. It is printed separately in oc this form in response to the quickened interest in Alaska result- » ing from the recent discoveries of gold in the Klondike region 2: and the great demand for fresh and reliable information concern- ^ ing that Territory. ^hj^^^C^ Uoi-^^t-*-*-^^^^ 'Director of the Bureau of the American Republics. Washington, D. C, August lo, iSgy. CONTENTS. Page. I. Location, area, and population 7-1 1 II. Indian tribes of Alaska 12-14 III. Geography and topography 15-24 IV. Climate 25-29 V. Towns and trading posts 30-34 VI. Forests of Alaska — Varieties of timber 35-37 VII. Agricultural resources 3S-42 VIII. The fur-seal and other fisheries 43-74 IX. Mineral resources — The Klondike gold region 75-124 X. Commerce — Transportation facilities — Proposed railroad 125-12S XI. Territorial government 129-130 Index 131-133 Map of Alaska Frontispiece 5 ALAS KA. I. Location, Area, and Population. The Territory of Alaska, lying in the extreme northwestern corner of the North American Continent, on the Bering Sea and North Pacific, comprises an area of about 577,390 statute square miles, with a seacoast of 26,000 miles, or nearly two and one-half times the seacoast of the balance of the United States. The Territory was acquired by purchase by the United States from Russia, and the boundaries, as laid down in the treaty of cession of March 30, 1867, are: Commencing from the southernmost point of the island called Prince of Wales Island, which point lies in the parallel of 54 degrees 40 minutes north latitude, and between the 131st and the 133d degree of west longitude (meridian of Greenwich), the said line shall ascend to the north along the channel called Portland Channel as far as the point of the continent where it strikes the 56th degree of north latitude; from this last-mentioned point, the line of demarcation shall fol- low the summit of the mountains situated parallel to the coast as far as the point of intersection of the 141st degree of west longitude (of the same meridian) ; and finally, from the said point of intersection, the said meridian line of the 141st degree, in its prolongation as far as the Frozen Ocean. 7 8 ALASKA. IV, With reference to the Hne of demarcation laid down in the preceding article, it is understood — 1st. That the island called Prince of Wales Island shall belong wholly to Russia (now, by this cession, to the United States). 2d. That whenever the summit of the mountains which extend in a direction parallel to the coast from the 56th degree of north latitude to the point of intersection of the 141st degree of west longitude shall prove to be at the distance of more than ten marine leagues from the ocean, the limit between the British possessions and the line of coast which is to belong to Russia as above mentioned (that is to say, the limit to the possessions ceded by this convention) shall be formed by a line parallel to the winding of the coast, and which shall never exceed the distance of ten marine leagues therefrom. The western limits, within which the territories and dominion conveyed are contained, passes through a point in Bering Straits on the parallel of 65 degrees 30 minutes north latitude, at its intersection by the meridian which passes midway between the islands of Krusenstern, or Ignalook, and the island of Ratmanoff, or Noonarbook, and proceeds due north, without limitation, into the same Frozen Ocean. The same western limit, beginning at the same initial point, proceeds thence in a course nearly south- west through Bering's Straits and Bering's Sea, so as to pass mid- way between the northwest point of the Island of St. Lawrence and the southeast point of Cape Choukotski, to the meridian of 172 west longitude; thence, from the intersection of that merid- ian, in a southwesterly direction, so as to pass midway between the island of Attou and the Copper Island of the Kormandorski couplet or group in the North Pacific Ocean, to the meridian ot 193 degrees west longitude, so as to include in the territory con- veyed the whole of the Aleutian islands east of that meridian. The treaty ceding to the United States the territory of Russian ALASKA. America, as it was then called, was concluded March 30, 1867. The sum of $7,000,000 was originally agreed upon; but when it was understood that there was a fur company and also an ice company enjoying monopolies under the existing government, it was thought best that these should be extinguished; and the United States added $200,000 to the purchase money, in consid- eration of which the Russian Government formally declared the cession of the territory to be free of all incumbrances. Although there is no record of official correspondence on the matter, the eastern boundary line appears to have been the subject of informal consultation between the United States and Great Britain soon after the territory was annexed. In his annual mes- sage to Congress, December 2, 1872, President Grant recom- mended the appointment of a joint commission to determine the line; but no action upon the matter was taken by Congress. On May 17, 1886, President Cleveland transmitted to Congress copies of correspondence on the question between Secretary Bayard and Minister Phelps, and recommended the appropriation of $100,000 for making a preliminary survey of the frontier terri- tory. During the winter of 1887-88, informal conferences were held in Washington between Prof W. H. Dall, of the United States Geological Survey, and Dr. George M. Dawson, both authorities on the Territory of Alaska, but the conferences led to no result. On August 20, 1895, Lord Gough inquired of Secre- tary Olney if a joint surveyor could not be appointed to act with Mr. William Ogilvie, who was then about to survey the intersec- tion of the one hundred and forty-first meridian and the Yukon River. The Acting Secretary of State asked if the proposed survey could not be delayed until Congress had had an opportunity to consider the question. This suggestion was transmitted to the Canadian government, which answered that the season was so fiir advanced that it would not be possible to communicate with Mr. Ogilvie before the next summer, when a considerable portion of lO ALASKA. the one hundred and forty-first meridian would already be marked on the ground. An extract from a letter by Secretary Olney, dated March 1 1, 1896, was as follows: "So far as the recent and existing surveys on either side have progressed, they exhibit a close coincidence of results. At one point, as I am informed, the difference between Mr. Ogilvie's loca- tion and that made by the United States Coast and Geodetic Sur- vey is only about 6 feet 7 inches. In another point the difference is in the neighborhood of 500 or 600 feet, and at other points even closer coincidence than this latter is expected when the compari- son of calculations shall have been worked out." Mr. Olney proposed that the two Governments should agree upon certain points of the one hundred and forty-first meridian at the intersection of the principal streams, locating the same at points midway between the determinations of the Coast and Geo- detic Survey and of Mr. Ogilvie, and providing for the junction of the points so located by convenient joint surveys, as occasion should require, until the entire line should be established. This would supply a permanent line which for international purposes would be coincident with the one hundred and forty-fifth meridian, stipulated under existing treaties, and would require no further immediate arrangement than the dispatch of a joint surveying party to set up monuments at the points defined, with perhaps the survey of a traverse line connecting the monuments on the Yukon and Forty Mile Creek, and farther south if necessary. The Canadian government agreed to this proposition, and the convention is now pending before the Senate of the United States. POPULATION. No definite idea of the population was obtained until the cen- sus of 1890. In 1868, in a report by Maj. Gen. H. W. Halleck, the number given was 82,400. In the same year Rev. Vincent ALASKA. 1 1 Collyer, in his report to the Commissioner of Indian Affairs, added i 1,900 Thlinket Indians to the number given by General Halleck, making 94,300, while Ivan Petroff, Special Agent for the Tenth Census (1880), states the population as 33,426. The cen- sus of 1890, which is the first detailed statement, fixes the number at 32,052, which is made up of 4,298 white, 23,531 Indians, 2,288 Mongolians, and 1,935 mixed blood. II. Indian Tribes of Alaska. For some years after the cession of Alaska to the United States, there was trouble among the Indian tribes, and a man-of-war was stationed in Sitka Harbor. There has been no recent dis- turbance. The natives of Alaska, according to Mr. Petroff, are divided into four principal families: The Eskimo or Innuit, the Aleut (Oonagan), the Thlinket, and the Athabaskan (or Tinneh). There are numerous subdivisions. The Eskimos occupy almost the whole coast line of Alaska west of the one hundred and forty- fifth meridian. The Aleuts inhabit parts of Aliaska Peninsula, the Shumagin Islands, and the Aleutian chain. The Athabaskans include a large number of tribes generally classed as "North American Indians," extending from the mouth of the Mackenzie River in the north to the borders of Mexico in the south. The northern tribes extend west nearly to Bering Sea, touching the coast only in the northern part of Cook Inlet. At every other point they are separated from the ocean by a belt of Eskimo. The Thlinket inhabit the coast and islands from the intersection of the one hundred and forty-first meridian to the southern bound- ary of Alaska. Detailed descriptions of the tribes are given in PetrofF's Population, Industries, and Resources of Alaska; by Dall, in "Alaska and its Resources," and by Lieutenant Schwatka (Military Reconnoissance in Alaska). The report of Governor Knapp for 1892 says: The Athabas- cans and Eskimos have come less under the influences of contact with white people than the other tribes, and therefore retain more ALASKA. 1 ">j of their original customs and peculiarities. They occupy the in- terior and the coast of the Arctic Ocean and Bering Sea. The Eskimos are a comparatively gentle and inoffensive people, living mostly upon fish, walrus, u^hale, and other game to be found near the shores and in the water, though they also make long excursions into the interior, hunting reindeer, moose, and other large animals. The interior Indians (Athabascans) live mostly by hunting and fishing in the rivers. A few mission stations along the coast and on the Yukon River have had a little influence upon a very small number of the people. The mining camps on the upper Yukon have also come in contact with the natives to some extent in the way of trade, but they have not in any large degree acted as civ- ilizing agencies. It is said the natives of the upper Yukon region have been very little demoralized by the use of intoxicating liquor, perhaps on account of the difficulty of packing it across the divide. Mr. Chapman, of Anvik, writes that "liquor has not troubled the natives speaking the group of dialects found around Anvik; but almost everywhere else in the Yukon country it has made more or less trouble." The dialects referred to arise from the interrelations of Eskimos and Athabascans at the point of contact. The Eskimos and interior Indians find it necessary to exercise the utmost of their energies and of their ingenuity to secure a bare subsistence, and their ideas have not risen much above the level of animal existence. Physically, they are strong and comparatively healthy; mentally, they lack vigor; morally, they substitute expediency for right. They are comparatively honest, because it is the best policy to be so. They see no moral quality in abstaining from the use of intoxicating liquors, tobacco, or other hurtful things, or in restraints in the relations of the sexes. Except as their ideas are modified by relations and intercourse with white people, they have no religion, unless certain indefinite superstitions having no connection with any idea of a supreme spiritual being can be called religion. H ALASKA. The Aleuts have become thoroughly Russianized. They talk Russian, belong to the Russian Orthodox Church, shade off into Russian blood, features, and complexion, and affect Russian ideas. They are rapidly fading away. Their physical condition is far from being satisfactory, and their moral condition is worse. They are an easy-going, gentle, and kindly disposed people, somewhat lacking in force of character. They secure a comfortable living with their sea-otter hunting and fishing, and have little forethought as to the future. The Thlingkets, Tsimpseans, and Hydas live in southeastern Alaska and are very similar in character and habits, though their languages are different. Their contact with white people has very much modified them in many respects, and many of them now converse freely in the English language, while a few^ of them read and write. III. Geography and Topography. Alaska may be conveniently divided, says Special Agent Ivan Petroff, in his report on the Population, Industries, and Resources of Alaska, 1884, into six geographical sections: 1, The southeastern, containing 29,980 square miles, and com- prising the coast from Mount St. Elias in the north, to Portland Canal, in latitude 54° 40' in the south, together with the islands of the Alexander Archipelago between Cross Sound and Cape Fox. This region differs from the bulk of Alaska, resembling British Columbia and the adjoining islands. It is densely wooded and exceedingly mountainous in its formation, the coast is deeply indented with bays and fiords, and for two-thirds of its length is sheltered by the islands of the archipelago. Coal has been dis- covered on many of the islands and on the mainland, but no practical use has thus far been made of the discoveries. Discov- eries of gold-bearing quartz were made on Baranof Island, but the ledges are not worked. Gold was also discovered on the peninsula between Taku and Chilkat inlets and on Douglas Island. The natives are chiefly engaged in the fur trade and fisheries. There are numerous glaciers, and the mountains range from 2,000 feet in height to 18,100 (Mount St. Elias). The chief river is the Stikine (see "River system"). 2. The Kadiak division, containing 14,610 square miles, com- prises the south coast of the Aliaska Peninsula down to Zakharof Bay, with the adjacent islands, the Kadiak group. Cook Inlet, the Kenai Peninsula, and Prince William Sound. This country is 15 l6 ALASKA, also very mountainous. Steep ridges and peaks rise to the height ot sometimes 12,000 teet, intersected by glaciers. Coal has been tound on the peninsula opposite Kadiak Island, and coal and gold on Cook Inlet. The principal rivers are the Shushitna and the Copper. 3. The Aleutian division contains 14,610 square miles, and comprises the western part of the Aliaska Peninsula and the chain of islands from the Shumagin group in the east to Attu in the west, including the Pribilof Islands. The islands appear to be a continuation of the main Alaskan range of mountain groups. There are many volcanic peaks, and slight shocks of earthquake are common. The entire division is treeless, dwarfed specimens of creeping willow being the nearest approach to timber found. Grass grows in abundance. 4. The Kuskokwim division contains 1 14,975 square miles, and is bounded on the north by the Yukon division and on the east by the mountain range between the Kuskokwim and Tanana rivers. The head waters ot this river have not been explored, but the ground on the shores is low and marshy. The interior of Alaska is less elevated, and contains extensive plains. The country is poor in natural products, although salmon abounds in the river. 5. The Yukon division contains 176,715 square miles, and comprises the valley of the Yukon River, as far as it lies within our boundaries, with its tributaries. The division is bounded by the Arctic division on the north, the one hundred and forty-fifth meridian on the east, and Bering Sea on the west. The southern boundary lies along a line indicating the water shed between the Yukon and the Kuskokwim, Sushitna, and Copper rivers. This section, as well as the Kuskokwim division, are more fully described under the heading "River system." 6. The Arctic division covers 125,245 square miles, and com- prises that portion of the continent between the one hundred and forty-fifth meridian on the east and Bering Strait on the west, the ALASKA. 17 Yukon district on the south and the Arctic Ocean on the north. This division, situated ahiiost entirely above the Arctic Circle, is known only from observations made on the seacoast. The vast interior, consisting probably of frozen moors and low ranges of hills, intersected here and there by shallow streams, remains almost entirely unknown. The Meade, Ikpikpung, and Colville rivers empty into the Arctic Ocean, and the Selawik (flowing through Selawik Lake), the Noatak, and the Kowak empty into Kotze- bue Sound. The natives report the existence of settlements on all these rivers except the Colville, whose head waters no white man has ever visited. The coast settlements between Cape Prince of Wales and Point Barrow are visited annually by many schooners and ships engaged in whaling, hunting, and trading, and the inhabitants are better accustomed to white men than the natives of any other regions of Alaska. They carry on an exten- sive traffic with the natives of the Arctic coasts of Alaska and Asia. Kotzebue Sound is by far the best harbor in this section of the Arctic Ocean. RIVER SYSTEM. One of the characteristics of Alaska is the network of rivers that covers its surface, and that serves as the most available means of transportation. In the Sitkan district, says Mr. Petroff, land travel is simply impracticable. Nobody goes on a road; savages and whites all travel by water. In the more northern regions "the country, outside of the mountains, is a great expanse of bog, lakes, large and small, with thousands of channels between them." By ascending Lynn Channel, the head waters of the Yukon can be reached by the Chilkoot, the Chilkat, or the White passes; the Copper and Tanana rivers, the Copper and Sushitna, the Tanana and White, the Sushitna and Kuskokwim are connected by trails. There is a trail of 6 miles between branches of the Yukon and Kus- kokwim.^ In the Alaska peninsula, there is a route from Bristol 1 According to the map in Nansen's " Farthest North." No. 86 2 l8 ALASKA. Bay to Shelikof Strait, via \\ alker Lake and the Naknek River. Speaking of this region, Mr. Dall (Alaska and its Resources, 1870, p. 273) says: "The country between and at the bases of the high mountains, which form the prolongation of the Alaskan range in the peninsula, is very low and marshy. In many places, large lakes are found, emptying into the sea by rivers on either side, and it is said that in some places a passage can be made in canoes from one shore to the other, hardly lifting the canoe out of water during the journey." The Yukon can be reached from Norton Sound via the Una- laklik and Autokakat rivers (or via the Kaltag), the usual route of travelers from St. Michaels. The Yukon also connects, via the Koyukuk, with Kotzebue Sound. The statement is made by natives that there are routes of travel between the northern tribu- taries of the Yukon or the Noatak and the rivers that empty direct into the Arctic Ocean. Beginning on the south, the Stikine is the first river of large size, although it lies within Alaskan territory, only 30 miles in an air line from its mouth. It empties into Dry Strait, near Wran- gell Island. The river has become well known on account of the gold diggings on its banks, all of which are in British territory. It is over 250 miles in length, and is navigable only by boats, except during the spring freshets. The North Fork (about 40 miles long) rises on the east side of the Bald Mountains, near the headwaters of the Yukon. A small stream called the Taku flows into Glacier Arm of St. Stephens Strait. The Chilkat, a much larger river, enters the northern extremity of Lynn Channel. 1 he general direction of this river is from the north. The Indians ascend it against a rapid current in twenty days, when they make a portage by several lakes to the Lewis River, a tributary of the Yukon. The mouth of the Copper River lies in latitude 60° 17' and longitude 145° 20'. The delta is 30 miles long by 4 or 5 wide, ALASKA, IQ and the principal mouth is at the northwest. This river, with its tributary the Chittyna, was explored in 1885 by Lieutenant Allen (Reconnoissance in Alaska, Senate Ex. Doc. 125, Forty-ninth Congress, second session). He followed the Copper River for some 389 miles, and says that it drains, approximately, 25,000 square miles. By way of the Slana River and Lake Suslota, the Tanana, a tributary of the Yukon, can be reached. Lieutenant Allen says (pp. 69-7 1 ) : To find two rivers of the magnitude of the Tanana and Copper heading so near each other as almost to have intersecting tributaries, and to be so entirely different in their characteristics, 1 consider one of the most interesting discov- eries of the expedition. . . . The pass over the Alaskan range, Lake Suslota, is probably the best locality that will permit communication between the Yukon Basin and the Copper River country, and would doubtless be used should the minerals of the latter region prove of sufficient importance. The possibility of the ascent of the Copper with provisions can hardly be entertained, unless it be made with sleds during the winter. The Sushitna River empties into Cook Inlet. This river is said to connect both with the Tanana and the Kuskokwim by trails. \\ est of Augustin Island is a small stream by which, through the mountain gorges, portage is made to Lake Iliamna. This lake, says Mr, Dall, is supposed to be rather shallow, and is known to be over 80 miles long and about 24 broad— fully half" as large as Lake Ontario. At Fort Alexandra is the mouth of the Nushagak, said to be 150 miles in length, and to connect by means of lakes and rivers with the Kuskokwim. This is the second largest river in Alaska, In his report on the Territory, Mr. Petroff says: The length of the main artery of this division is not known, the head waters of the Kuskokwim having thus far been untouched by the explorer or trader. ' We have the statements of natives to the effect that the upper Kuskokwim River flows sluggishly through a vast plateau or valley, the current acquiring its impe- tus only a short distance above the village of Napaimute. From this point down to the trading station of Kalmakovsky and to the southern end of the portage route between this river and the Yukon, the banks are high and gravelly 20 ALASKA. and chains of mountains seem to run parallel with its course on either side. This section of the Kuskokwim Valley is but thinly populated, though appar- ently the natural advantages are far greater than on the corresponding section of the Yukon. The soil is of better quality and is sufficiently drained to permit of a more luxuriant growth of forest trees, shrubs, and herbs. Such indications of minerals as have been found here are the most promising of those in any portion of western Alaska, consisting of well-defined veins of cinnabar, antimony, and silver-bearing quartz. Game and fur-bearing animals do not abound in this section of the river val- ley, as it is an old hunting ground, and has been drained by constant traffic for more than half a century. The principal business of the traders at Kalma- kovsky is derived from the almost unknown head waters of the river, where the beaver, marten, and fox are still plentiful. The people of the lower Kuskokwim, adds Mr. PetrofF, live from the abundant supply of salmon. Over 4,000 people lay in the winter supply for themselves and for their dogs during a few months of summer. The fish is dried in a wasteful manner, and with better methods four times the number could be provided for. This section of the country teems with population. The estuary of the river is capacious, and the tides have a surprising velocity and an enormous rise and fall. THE YUKON REGION. The following descriptions are also taken from Mr. Petroffs report : The people of the United States will not be quick to realize that the volume of water in an x'\laskan river is greater than that discharged by the mighty Mis- sissippi; but it is entirely within the bounds of honest statement to say that the Yukon River, the vast deltoid mouth of which opens into Norton Sound of Bering Sea, discharges every hour one-third more water than the "Father of Waters." There is room for some very important measurements in this con- nection, which I hope will soon be made. Entering the mouth, or rather any one of the mouths, of this large river, we are impressed first by the exceeding shallowness of the sea 50 miles out from it, varying in depth from 2 to 3 fathoms ; and, second, by the mournful, desolate appearance of the country itself, which is scarcely above the level of the tide, and which is covered with a monotonous ALASKA. 2 1 cloak of scrubby willows and rank grasses. The banks, wherever they are lifted above the reddish current, are continually undermined and washed away by the flood, and so sudden and precipitate are these landslides at times that traders and natives have barely escaped with their lives. For loo miles up, through an intricate labyrinth of tides, blind and misleading channels, sloughs, and swamps, we pass through the same drearv, desolate region, until the higher ground is first reached at Kusilvak, and until the bluffs at Andreievsky and at Chatinakh give evidence of the fact that all the land in Alaska is not under water. It is watered, however, here, there, and everywhere, and impresses one with the idea of a vast inland sea, which impression holds good even as far up the river as 700 or 800 miles, where there are many points, even far in the interior, at which this river spans a breadth of 20 miles from shore to shore. As we advance toward its source we are not surprised, when we view the character of the country through which it rolls, at the vast quantity of water in its chan- nel. It would seem as though the land itself, drained by the river on either side within Alaska, were a sponge, into which all rain and moisture fi-om the heavens and melting snow are absorbed, never finding their release by evapora- tion, but conserved to drain, by myriads and myriads of rivulets, the great watery highway of the Yukon. I noticed a striking evidence of the peculiar nonconductive properties of the tundra mosses, or swale, last summer in pass- ing through many of the thousand and one lakes and lakelets peculiar to that region, where the ice had bound up the moss and overhanging water growth at the edges of the lakes. In the breaking up and thawing out of summer that ice failed to melt, and the renewed growth of the season of vegetation, reaching out in turn from this icy border, will again prevent thawing, and so on until shallow pools and flats are changed into fixed masses of ice hidden from view. The Yukon is formed by the junction of the Lewis and Pelly rivers. Mr. Wilson, in his "Guide to the Yukon Gold Fields," published at Seattle, 1895, gives the length of the Yukon as 2,044 miles, and says that it is navigable the entire distance for tlat- bottom boats with a capacity of from 400 to 500 tons. The White River, a portion of whose waters flows through Alaskan territory, empties into the Yukon on British territory. Forty Mile Creek, Birch and Beaver creeks join the river between Fort Yukon and Dawson, a British town. The following descrip- tion of the topography of the Yukon River below Fort Yukon (966 miles from mouth) is quoted by Mr. Petroff from the 22 ALASKA. account of Capt. C. W. Raymond, United States Army (see Alaska, its Population, Industries, and Resources, pp. 89-90): Fort Yukon is situated in latitude 66° 33' 47" and longitude 145° 17' 47", at a point where the Yukon receives the waters of the Rat or Porcupine River, a large tributary emptying on the right bank and flowing from its headwaters in a general direction a little south ot west. From Fort Yukon to the mouth of the Chetaut River, a distance of about 200 miles, the river has a general direc- tion about west-southwest, the country on both sides of the stream being low and level, usually consisting of sand or gravel. The average width of that portion of the river is about three-quarters of a mile, but in some places, meas- ured across its numerous islands, it widens out to 5 or 6 miles. The current through all its passages is extremely rapid, and in many places the deepest chan- nel does not carry more than 3 feet of water. Vegetation on the banks and islands is principally small willow and poplar, with occasional groves of spruce and birch. From the mouth of the Chetaut River, however, the Yukon rapidly changes its character; the islands disappear, the banks rise into hills, and the stream gradually narrows into one channel, deep and rapid, until it finally rushes with great velocity through the Rampart range of hills. The bluffs composing this range rise abruptly from the water's edge, and are composed principally of a hard, greenish rock, though slate is occasionally observed, and at the principal rapids a ledge of granite crosses the river. Most of the hills are covered with groves of spruce and birch, but the trees are all small, and in many places they lie for some distance scattered in every direction, showing the small depth to which their roots descend in the frozen ground and the great force of the pre- vailing winds. From the Chetaut River to the Rampart rapids, a distance of some 60 miles, the Yukon flows in a direction nearly northwest, and averages about two-thirds of a mile in width, which decreases at the rapids to about 150 yards. The tributaries emptying into this section are also chiefly from the north and small in volume. The first native village met after descending from Fort Yukon is situated just below the rapids. From here to Nulato, a distance of some 240 miles, the river has a general direction about west by south. There are, however, many bends, although they are less sudden and numerous than in other portions of the river. After leaving the Rampart range the river widens again and diminishes in velocity. The right bank is generally hilly and abrupt, and on the left, though the shore is generally low or flat, the hills and bluffs occasionally approach the water's edge. The average width of the chan- nel is about three-quarters of a mile, but occasionally groups of low islands cause a widening of the river. About 50 miles below the Nuklukaiet station, a ALASKA. 23 range of mountains appears on the right bank. This is a succession of well- defined peaks and ridges, describing a beautiful curve of many miles, with its concavity toward the river and its flanks resting upon the water's edge. All this bank is well timbered with spruce, poplar, and birch. The principal northern tributaries of the river are the Koyakuk, the Porcupine, the Melozikat, and the Tozikakat. The Koyakuk was ascended by Lieutenant Allen for 532 miles from its mouth. He says that at that point, although there had been several large tributaries, the volume of water in the river had not apparently diminished. He estimates that the Koyakuk drains 55,000 square miles. The Tanana empties into the Yukon on the south "about 30 miles below the Ramparts and near the great trading ground called Nuklukaiet, where the Indians are accustomed to congregate in the spring and meet the white traders." From the place where Lieutenant Allen reached the Tanana on his trip from the Cop- per River to the junction of the Tanana with the Yukon was 546 miles. The river, says Lieutenant Allen, drains 45,000 square miles. Owing to its violent rapids, it is dangerous to navigation. Continuing the description of the Yukon, Mr. Petroff says: From Nulato, situated some i;o miles south of the mission, to Andreafski the distance is about 350 miles, and the river has the following approximate directions: From Nulato to Anvik, south-southwest; from Anvik to the upper entrance of Shageluk Slough, south-southeast; from the upper entrance of the slough to the great bend, southwest ; from the great bend to Andreafski, west by south. It is difficult to convey an idea of this portion of the river, as its numer- ous windings, its hundreds of islands, its bars and shoals, ever changing and shifting, baffle the traveler in his search for a navigable channel. Generally speaking, the right bank is high, exhibiting many bluffs of sand and rock much eroded by the ice torrents of the spring. The ice sometimes undermines the high banks to a distance of 20 or 30 feet, and the trees standing on the project- ing tops of the banks are loosened by the action of frost and water and pre- cipitated into the stream beneath, and thus the river goes on widening and shoaling, and floating immense quantities of driftwood down to the sea. Some- times the right bank rises into high hills, but the left bank is generally low and level; here and there, however, a few isolated hills are seen standing back a 24 ALASKA. mile or two from the water, and for nearly the whole distance a range of distant mountains parallel to the left shore is visible. In these mountains, lie the upper branches of the great river Kuskokwim. Sandstone and slate continue throughout this portion of the Yukon Val- ley. . . . There are few tributaries of importance in this section of the river, but there are many small streams. The Takaiak joins the river some 50 miles below Nulato, and the Anvik about 110 miles lower down. The latter has steep banks and swift waters. About 130 miles below Nulato the Yukon sepa- rates into two branches, the main stream pursuing a southerly course, and the lesser branch, running at first a little south of east, makes finally a great bend to the south and west and enters the main river again about 60 miles below the point of separation. This lesser branch is called Chageluk Slough, and into it, a few miles from its entrance, empties the Chageluk or Innoko River. A little below Andreievsky the Yukon bends abruptly to the north and runs about north- west to the sea. The three principal outlets of the great river are the Aphoon or upper, the Kwikpak or middle, and the Kusilvak or lower mouth. The Aphoon outlet is about 40 miles in length and has an average width of perhaps one-third of a mile. During the brief summer, adds Mr. PetrotF, tlie whole popula- tion flocks to the river, attracted by the myriads of salmon. The banks are lined with summer villages and camps of fishermen, who build their basket traps far out into the eddies and bends of the stream and lay up their store of dried fish, or "yukala," for the long arctic winter. The traveler on the river during this busy season would form an entirely erroneous idea of the density of the population. The surrounding country is drained. Were he to make a brief excursion into the almost impenetrable forests and over the hills and mountains, he would quickly perceive that along the river alone exist the conditions necessary to sustain life throughout the year. The small rivulets of the interior and the vast swampy plains covered with snow for seven or eight months of the year are only visited by the trapper and hunter when the skins of the marten, mink, and muskrat are in their prime. Where the mountains are higher, along the upper courses of the Yukon and the Tanana, game is more abundant and the inhabitants are less dependent upon the river and its fish. IV. Climate. Mr. Dall (Alaska and Its Resources, p. 285) says that the mild climate of the southern portion of Alaska is due to the Japanese current, which splits on the eastern end of the Aleutian chain, the smaller portion passing north to Bering Strait and preventing the flow of ice southward, and the other portion sweeping south of the islands, bringing a warm, moist atmosphere, which is responsible for the remarkable rainfall. " To fully appreciate," says Mr. Pet- roff, "how much moisture in the form of fog and rain settles upon the land, one can not do better than to take a walk through one of the narrow valleys to the summit of a lofty peak. He will step upon what appeared from a distance to be a firm greensward, and will sink to his waist in a shaking, tremulous bog." A report prepared by Chief Willis L. Moore, of the United States Weather Bureau, on the climate of Alaska, is as follows: The general conception of Alaskan climate is largely due to those who go down to the sea in ships, and this is not strange when we consider the vast extent of shore line — over 26,000 miles — possessed by that Territory. The climates of the coast and the interior are unlike in many respects, and the dif- ferences are intensified in this, as perhaps in few other countries, by exceptional phvsical conditions. The natural contrast between land and sea is here tre- mendously increased by the current of warm water that impinges on the coast of British Columbia, one branch flowing northward toward Sitka and thence westward to the Kadiak and Shumagin Islands. The fringe of islands that separates the mainland from the Pacific Ocean from Dixon Sound northward, and also a strip of the mainland for possibly 20 miles back from the sea, following the sweep of the coast, as it curves to the northwestward, to the western extremity of Alaska, form a distinct climate 25 26 ALASKA, division, which mav be termed temperate Alaska. The temperature rarelv falls to zero; winter does not set in until December i, and by the last of May the snow has disappeared except on the mountains. The mean winter temperature of Sitka is 32.5 degrees, but little less than that of Washington, D. C. While Sitka is fully exposed to the sea influence, places farther inland, but not over the coast range of mountains, as Killisnoo and Juneau, have also mild tempera- tures throughout the winter months. The temperature changes from month to month in temperate Alaska are small, not exceeding 25 degrees from midwinter to midsummer. The average temperature of July, the warmest month of sum- mer, rarely reaches 55 degrees, and the highest temperature of a single day seldom reaches 75 degrees. The rainfall of temperate Alaska is notorious the world over, not only as regards the quantity that falls, but also as to the manner of its falling, viz, in long and incessant rains and drizzles. Cloud and fog naturally abound, there being on an average but sixty-six clear days in the year. Alaska is a land of striking contrasts, both in climate as well as topography. When the sun shines the atmosphere is remarkably clear ; the scenic effects are magnificent; all nature seems to be in holiday attire. But the scene may change very quickly; the sky becomes overcast; the winds increase in force; rain begins to fall; the evergreens sigh ominously, and utter desolation and loneli- ness prevail. North of the Aleutian Islands the coast climate becomes more rigorous in winter, but in summer the difference is much less marked. Thus, at St. Michaels, a short distance north of the mouth of the Yukon, the mean summer tempera- ture is 50 degrees, but 4 degrees cooler than Sitka. The mean summer tem- perature of Point Barrow, the most northerly point in the United States, is 36.8 degrees, but four-tenths of a degree less than the temperature of the air flowing across the summit of Pikes Peak, Colo. The rainfall of the coast region north of the Yukon Delta is small, diminishing to less than ten inches within the arctic circle. The climate of the interior, including in that designation practically all of the country except a narrow fringe of coastal margin and the territory before referred to as temperate Alaska, is one of extreme rigor in winter, with a brief, but relatively hot, summer, especially when the sky is free from clouds. In the Klondike region in midwinter, the sun rises from 9.30 to 10 a. m., and sets from 2 to 3 p. m., the total length of daylight being about four hours. Remembering that the sun rises but a few degrees above the horizon, and that it is wholly obscured on a great many days, the character of the winter months may easily be imagined. We are indebted to the United States Coast and Geodetic Survey for a series of six months' observations on the Yukon, not far from the site of the present ALASKA. 27 gold discoveries. The observations were made with standard instruments, and are wholly reliable. The mean temperature of the months October, 1889, to April, 1890, both inclusive, are as follows: October, 33 degrees; November, 8 degrees; December, 11 degrees below zero; January, 17 degrees below zero; February, 15 degrees below zero; March, 6 degrees above zero; April, 20 degrees above. The daily mean temperature fell and remained below the freez- ing point (32) from November 4, 1889, to April 21, 1890, thus giving 168 days as the length of the closed season of 1889-90, assuming the outdoor operations are controlled by temperature only. The lowest temperatures registered during the winter were: 32 degrees below zero in November, 47 below in December, 59 below in January, 55 below in February, 45 below in March, 26 below in April. The greatest continuous cold occurred in February, 1890, when the dailv mean for five consecutive days was 47 degrees below zero. The weather mod- erated slightly about the 1st of March, but the temperature still remained below the freezing point. Generally cloudy weather prevailed, there being but three consecutive days in any month with clear weather during the whole winter. Snow fell on about one-third of the days in winter, and a less number in the early spring and late tall months. Greater cold than that here noted has been experienced in the United States for a very short time, but never has it continued so very cold for so long a time. In the interior of Alaska, the winter sets in as early as September, when snow- storms may be expected in the mountains and passes. Headway during one of these storms is impossible, and the traveler who is overtaken by one of them is indeed fortunate if he escapes with his life. Snowstorms of great severity may occur in any month from September to May, inclusive. The changes of temperature from winter to summer are rapid, owing to the great increase in the length of the day. In May the sun rises at about 3 a. m. and sets about 9 p. m. In June it rises about 1.30 in the morning and sets at 10.30, giving about twenty hours of daylight, and diffuse twilight the remainder of the time. The mean summer temperature of the interior doubtless ranges between 60 and 70 degrees, according to elevation, being highest in the middle and lower Yukon valleys. Speaking of the temperature of St, Michael's and vicinity, Mr. Petroff quotes from Mr. E. W. Nelson's report (1880) to the Chief Signal Officer: During the past four years, the first mush-ice has begun to form in the bavs from the 15th to the 18th of October, and the bays have been frozen over so 28 ALASKA. as to bear a man from the 25th to the 28th ot" October, with the exception of the vear 1878, when a strong wind took the ice out, and it did not freeze again until the 10th of November. Up to the 15th of October, vessels could enter here without danger of meeting ice. In the spring, much more uncertainty exists, as to a great extent the date of open water depends upon what the prevailing winds may be. Long-continued north winds, following a severe winter, as in 1880, may keep the ice barrier in until the 20th of June, and it has even remained until nearly the 1st ot July; but these late dates are excep- tional. As a rule, the ice will be thoroughly broken up and a strong vessel mav enter Norton Sound through the ice by the 10th of June. Between the 20th of June and the 1st of July may be called safe dates for any vessel except in an unusual season, as during a large part of June fine weather prevails. As in most other places under high latitudes, there is no long gradation from season to season, but instead we have two well-marked periods — a long winter of about seven months, extending from October until well into May, and five months of summer. The winter is by far the best, as there are long periods of beautifully clear days, which are welcomed in spite of the usually accompanying intense cold. The summer is rendered very disagreeable by a large number of cold, misty rains, and the low overhanging stratum, which appears to shut down all about like a leaden covering. As a natural result of these climatic conditions, the warm weather brings swarms of mosquitoes. Mr. Petroif says (speaking especially of the Kuskokwim region, although the same complaint is made by travelers in other sections): . There is a feature in this country which, though insignificant on paper, is to the traveler the most terrible and poignant infliction he can be called upon to bear in a new land. I refer to the clouds of bloodthirsty mosquitoes, accompanied by a vindictive ally in the shape of a small poisonous black fly, under the stress of whose persecution the strongest man with the firmest will must either feel depressed or succumb to low fever. They hold their carnival of human tor- ment from the first growing of spring vegetation in May until it is withered by frosts late in September. Breeding here as they do in the vast network of slough and swamp, they are able to rally around and to infest the wake and the prog- ress of the explorer beyond all adequate description, and language is simply unable to portray the misery and annoyance accompanying their presence. It v/ill naturally be asked. How do the natives bear this ? They, too, are annoyed and suffer, but it should be borne in mind that their bodies are annointed with rancid oil ; and certain ammoniacal vapors, peculiar to their garments from ALASKA. 29 constant wear, have a repellant power which even the mosquitoes, bloodthirsty and cruel as they are, are hardly equal to meet. When traveling, the natives are, however, glad enough to seize upon any piece of mosquito net, no matter how small, and usually they have to wrap cloths or skins about their heads and wear mittens in midsummer. The traveler who exposes his bare eyes or face here loses his natural appearance ; his eyelids swell up and close, and his face becomes one mass of lumps and fiery pimples. Mosquitoes torture the Indian dogs to df^ath, especially if one of these animals, by mange or otherwise, loses an inconsiderable portion of its thick hairy covering, and even drive the bear and the deer into the water. Towns and Trading Posts. The capital of the Territory is Sitka, located in 57° N., 135° 17' W., on a low strip of land on the west of Baranof Island. Mount Edgecumbe, an extinct volcano of 8,000 feet, opposite the town, is the landmark of the port. There is an industrial school, and the population was 1,190 in 1890. Salmon fishing and cur- ing is the chief industry. Steamers ply once a month between Sitka and Portland, Oreg. The harbor is small but commodious. Mean temperature (forty-three years), January, 31.4°; August, 5'5.9°. Annual rainfall (thirty years), 84.06 inches. Senator Charles Sumner of Massachusetts called attention to the fact that the winter of Sitka is milder than that of many European capitals — Berlin, Copenhagen, Berne, Stuttgart, Vienna, or Turin. Mr. Dall (p. 255) says that the shortest distance from San Francisco Harbor to Sitka is 1,296 miles. By the inner passage, between the archipelago and the coast of British Columbia and Alaska, the distance is 1,647 miles; large sailing vessels have to go outside. Juneau (population 1,253, census of 1890) is located near the Lynn Channel, by which there are trails to the Yukon. Mr. Wilson (Guide to the Yukon Gold F'ieUls) says that the year 1895 witnessed a great improvement in the town, and Juneau is to-day a progressive city with fine buildings, wharves, electric lights, waterworks, hotels, etc. Wrangell, on the northern part of the island of the same name, is about 10 miles from the mouth of the Stikine, and is the point of departure for traders and miners penetrating into the interior by 30 ALASKA. 31 way of that river. The regular mail steamer trom Portland touches here both on the outward and return trips. There are 316 inhabi- tants. Douglas City, on Douglas Island, near Juneau, has a popula- tion of 402. This is the location of the Treadwell gold mine, with, it is said, the largest quartz mill in the world. Yakutat (population 308) is on Yakutat Bay. Nuchek is situated on Hinchinbrook Island, 432 miles by sea from Sitka, and 50 miles from the mouth of the Copper River. It was formerly an impor- tant trading post, but much of the commerce has been transferred. In regard to the Kenai peninsula, Mr. Petrolf says: Two of the trading stations are located at English Bay and Seldovia. Three more stations, consisting each of two rival stores, are located at Kenai (Redoute St. Nicholas), on the river Kinik, and the village of Toyonok, or West Foreland. The central point of all this region is Kenai, once the site of the earliest permanent settlement on the inlet, the remnants of which can still be seen. A Russian missionary is located here, and a new church is nearly completed. At the time of the transfer of the Territory, Kenai was still a fortified place, with a high stockade and octagonal bastions at the salient points. Both stockade and bastions, with their primitive armament of i^-pound falconets, have disappeared since then, but a number of new buildings have sprung up, and a thrifty colony of Creoles has taken to the cultivation of potatoes and turnips on a larger scale than had ever been attempted before. Perhaps lo or 12 acres are planted here now, and several of the families keep cattle. Some of the choicest salmon of the Territory is salted here and is barreled and shipped to San Francisco. The hunting grounds in the immediate vicinity do not yield their former abun- dance of valuable furs, but the presence of the missionary establishment causes a concentration of natives from all parts of the inlet at least once a year and brings considerable trade to this old station. It was on the river Kaknu, or Kenai, that the Russian mining engineer Doroshin reported the existence of sur- face gold in paying quantities. After laboring with a numerous party in the mountains for two seasons, at great expense to the Russian-American Company, he returned with a few ounces of the precious metal, but he could present no inducement to the corporation to proceed any further in this enterprise. Since that time American prospectors have passed years in this region following up the Russian's tracks, but not one of them has thus far found gold enough to warrant him to work the find. In former years Kenai was also the site ot a 32 ALASKA. large brickyard, the only establishment of the kind in the colony, from which all stations and settlements were supplied with the material for the old-fashioned Russian ovens or heaters. About 30 miles down the coast from Kenai, there is another settlement deserv- ing at least a passing notice. A number of "colonial citizens," or superan- nuated employees of the old Russian company, were ordered to settle some fifty or sixty years ago at Ninilchik, and their descendants live there still. Each family has quite a large garden patch of turnips and potatoes, yielding enough to allow the owners to dispose of a large surplus to traders and fishermen. They have quite a herd of cattle, and the women actually make butter; but they are not sufficiently advanced in farming lore to construct or use a churn, and the butter is made in a very laborious manner by shaking the cream in bottles. They also raise pigs and keep poultry, but on account of the hogs running on the seashore, digging clams and feeding upon kelp, and the chickens scratching among fish bones and other offal, both their poultry and their pork are fishy to such an extent as to be made unpalatable. In the vicinity of Anchor Point, on Kuchekmak Gulf, and on Graham's or English Harbor, extensive coal veins appear along the bluffs and come to the surface. The Russian-American Company, jointly with a San Francisco firm, worked here for years to develop the mines and obtain a product good enough for the use of steamers and engines, but after sinking a large capital the enter- prise was abandoned before the transfer of the Territory took place. A few remnants of the extensive buildings erected in connection with these mining operations still remain on the north shore of English Bay. St. Paul, on the northern part of Kadiak Island, does a large fur trade. There are a number of salmon canneries on the is- land, employing in 1890, according to Longman's Gazetteer (p. 764), 1,100 hands, Karluk (population, 1,123) is said to have the largest cannery in the world. Kadiak (495), Alitak (420), and Afognak (409) are other villages on the island. On the Aleutian Islands, there are many settlements. The one on Ounga Island has a population of about 200, according to Mr. Petroff. Belkowsky, on the southern end of the Aliaska Penin- sula, has 300 inhabitants. Near Protassof (100 inhabitants) there are warm sulphur springs and ponds. Iliuliuk, on Unalaska Island, is a point of considerable commercial importance, having a church, custom-house, trading establishments, wharves, etc. Ni- ALASKA. 33 kolsky, on the south of Unimak Island, has 127 inhabitants; it was formerly much larger. Nazan, on Atkha Island, has a popu- lation of 230, described by Mr. Petroff as thrifty and prosperous. St. Paul, on the Pribilof Islands, had in 1882 a population o^' 298. The Amukhta (172° longitude) and the Unimak (160° longitude) are the two safe passes between the islands. St. Michaels, on Norton Sound, is one of the most important localities on the coast. It is a trading post, says Mr. Petroff, where rival firms have established their depots for the Yukon River and Arctic trade. The station keepers come down from the interior to the coast at the end of June or 1st of July, and each receives his allotment of goods to take back with him in sailboats and bidars during the few months when navigation on the river is not impeded by ice. The vessels supplying this depot can seldom approach the post before the end of June, on account of large bodies of drifting ice that beset the waters of Norton Sound and the straits between St. Lawrence Island and the Yukon delta. St. Michaels is the usual landing place for the Yukon Valley. Travelers follow a trail across the country, and reach Yukon some 392 miles from its mouth. Lieutenant Allen says that the distance from St. Michaels to the mouth of the Unalaklik River is 55 miles by coast. He ascended the river 14 miles to a village called Ulukuk, and followed the trail some 32 miles to the Autokakat River. A descent of this stream for 3 miles brought him to the Yukon. Port Clarence, on the bay of the same name, is the place where whalers wait for their tenders before proceeding through the straits. The harbor is excellent. There is a reindeer farm here, and the population numbers 485. Point Hope (population 301), Cape Lisburne, Icy Cape, and Point Barrow are the most important points on the northern coast. Nulato and Nuklakayet are trading posts on the Yukon River, the former being 467 miles from the sea, according to Lieutenant ifo. 86 3 34 ALASKA. Allen, and Nuklakayet 201 miles farther. Fort Yukon (about 300 miles distant from Nuklakayet) was formerly a trading post. Lieutenant Schwatka says it was abandoned about 1880 as not rem-unerative, and Fort Reliance and Belle Isle were established. Both of these have since been abandoned. At Fort Yukon, the river is said to be 7 miles wide. Circle City, between Fort Yukon and Belle Isle, had a popu- lation in 1896 of 1,150. (Report on Introduction of Domestic Reindeer into Alaska, by Sheldon Jackson, D. D., Senate Doc. No. 49, Fifty-fourth Congress, second session.) Missions have been established and hospitals proposed. There are some 40 white women in the district. VI. Forests of Alaska — Varieties of Timber. Speaking of the resources of Alaska, Mr. Petroffsays: The timber of Alaska extends over a much larger area than a great many surmise. It clothes the steep hills and mountain sides, and chokes up the valleys of the Alexander archipelago and the contiguous mainland; it stretches, less dense but still abundant, along that inhospitable reach of territory which extends from the head of Cross Sound to the Kenai Peninsula, where, reaching down to the westward and southwestward as far as the eastern half of Kadiak Island, and thence across Shelikof Strait, it is found on the mainland and on the peninsula bordering on the same latitude ; but it is confined to the interior opposite Kadiak, not coming down to the coast as far eastward as Cape Douglas. Here, however, it impinges on the coast or Cook Inlet, reaching down to the shores and extending around to the Kenai Peninsula. From the interior of the peninsula, above referred to, the timber line over the whole ot the interior of the great area of Alaska will be found to follow the coast line, at varying distances of from loo to 150 miles from the seaboard, until that section of Alaska north of the Yukon mouth is reached, where a portion of the coast of Norton Sound is directly bordered by timber as far north as Cape Denbigh. From this point to the eastward and northeastward, a line may be drawn just above the Yukon and its immediate tributaries as the northern limit of timber of any considerable extent. The trees, adds Mr. PetrofF, are mostly evergreen, the spruce family preponderating to an overwhelming extent. Boards ot the spruce are not adapted for nice finishing work in building, or in cabinet ware, or, indeed, in anything that requires a finish; for under the influence of slight degrees of heat, it sweats, exuding minute globules of gum or resin, sticky and difficult to remove. The white birch is found throughout the region that supports the spruce — scattered or in small bodies — chiefly along the water courses. The alder and willow are found on all the low lands, reaching far beyond the northern and western limit of the spruce. 35 ^6 ALASKA. A poplar, resembling our cottonwood, attaining great size under favorable circumstances, is also found in nearly all the timbered sections of Alaska south of the Arctic Circle. To the westward of the one hundred and forty-first meridian, no timber grows at an altitude higher than 1,000 feet above the sea level. A slightly curved line, beginning at the intersection of the coast hills of the east shore of Norton Sound with the Unalaklik River, pass- ing across the Yukon and Kuskokwim rivers, the mouth of the Nushagak, across the Alaska Peninsula, and impinging upon the North Pacific in the vicinity of Orlova Bay, on Kadiak Island, vvill serve as the western limit of spruce forest in Alaska. With reference to quality, continues Mr. Petroff, the trees may be divided as follows: 1. Yellow Cedar [Ciipressus nutkanensis). — This is one of the most valua- ble woods on the Pacific Coast, combining a fine, close texture, with great hardness, durability, and a peculiar but pleasant odor. The Russians named it "dushnik" (scented wood) on account of the last-named quality. In the immediate vicinity of Sitka, on Baranof and adjoining islands, this tree was nearly exterminated by the Russians, but on the Kehk Archipelago (Koo Island), and on Prince of Wales Island and a few others of the Alexander Archipelago, near the British Columbian frontier, considerable bodies of it can still be found, and beyond the line, in the Nass and Skeena River valleys, it is also abundant. 2. Sitka spruce [Abies sitkensis). — This is the universal forest tree of Alaska, and is found of gigantic size on the islands of the Alexander Archipelago and on the shores of Prince William Sound. Its medium growth it appears to attain in the valleys of the Yukon and the Kuskokwim, while on the east side of Cook Inlet and on the more northern uplands, it is quite stunted and dwarfed. The Sitka spruce is most closely connected with the various requirements of all Alaskan natives in their domestic economy, as its timber is used in the construc- tion of nearly every dwelling throughout the country, and even those tribes which inhabit barren coasts far removed from the limits of coniferous trees are sup- plied with it through means of freshets and ocean currents. The sappy outer portion of the wood furnishes splinters and torches that light up during the long months of winter the dark dwellings of interior tribes of Tinneh stock, who know not the oil lamp of their Innuit neighbors. The same material is also used for sledge runners on loose but crisp-frozen snow, over which iron or steel would drag with difficulty, as over deep, coarse sand. The Thlinket and the ALASKA. 37 Hyda fashion their buoyant and graceful canoes, both large and small, from spruce logs, and split from them also the huge planks used in the construction of their houses. The lumber manufactured from the Sitka spruce is much less durable than the yellow cedar, very knotty, and consequently not adapted for shipbuilding. 3. Hemlock {^Abies mertensiana). — Though this tree generally exceeds the spruce in size, it is of rare occurrence, much less valuable as timber, but well adapted for fuel. Balsam fir [Abies canadensis). — This tree is found only in small, scattered bodies, and is of little value as timber, but the natives use its bark for tanning and for other purposes. 5. Scrub pine (Pinus contorta). — The scrub pine is found throughout the interior of Alaska in small, scattered bodies up to the highest latitudes, but it is of no value as timber. Thus it will be seen that the forests of Alaska are altogether coniferous, as the small bodies of birch and the alder and willow thickets on the lower Yukon and Kuskokwim rivers can scarcely be considered to come under this head. Aside from the yellow cedar, which is rare, the timber wealth of Alaska consists of the Sitka spruce, which is not only abundant and large (trees of from 3 to 4 feet in diameter being quite common in southeastern Alaska and Prince William Sound), but also generally accessible. To give even an approximate estimate of the area of timbered lands in Alaska is at present impossible, in view of our incomplete knowledge of the extent of mountain ranges, which, though falling within the timber limits, must be deducted from the superficial area of forest covering. A few small sawmills of exceedingly limited capacity have been erected at various points in southeastern Alaska, to supply the local demand of trading posts and mining camps, but finished building lumber is still largely imported even into this heavily timbered region. In all western Alaska, but one small sawmill is known to exist, which is on Wood Island, St. Paul Harbor, Kadiak. This mill was first set up to supply sawdust for packing ice, but since the collapse oi that industry, its operations have been spasmodic and not worth mentioning. Lumber from Puget Sound and British Columbian mills is shipped to nearlv all ports in western Alaska for the use of whites and halt-breeds, while the natives in their more remote settlements obtain planks and boards by the very laborious process of splitting logs with iron or ivory wedges. On the treeless isles of the Shumagin and Aleutian groups, as well as in the southern settlements of the Alaska peninsula, even firewood is imported from more favored sections of the Territory and commands high prices. The driftwood washed upon the shores of Bering Sea and the Arctic is of very little value as building material and can not be worked into lumber. i VII. Agricultural Resources. In regard to the agricultural resources of Alaska, Mr. Petroflf says that it has been settled by patient experiments that cereal crops can not be grown. Nor can the fruit trees and small fruits of the United States be cultivated with success, unless it be the strawberry and the cranberry. He continues: Taking up the subject of the vegetable garden, it is found that there are localities in Alaska where for the last eighty years, or even more, up to the present date good potatoes have been raised, though I should say, perhaps, that the raising of these tubers is not a certain success year after year, except at one or two points within the Alexander Archipelago, namely, at the mouth of the Stakhin River, at Fort Wrangel, and on Prince of Wales Island. The potato grounds of Alaska, however, can with due care and diligence be made to furnish in the Alexander Archipelago, in Cook Inlet, at Kadiak Island and islets con- tiguous, and at Bristol Bay a positive source of food supply to the inhabitants. It is not generally known that on Afognak Island there are nearly lOO acres of land, dug up in patches here and there, which are planted by the inhabitants and from which they gather an annual harvest of potatoes and turnips; but there are no fields spread out, squared up, and plowed anywhere in Alaska. The little openings in the forest or the cleared sides of a gently sloping declivity in sheltered situations are taken up by the people, who turn out with rude spades, of their own manufacture principally, for the purpose of subjugating and over- turning the sod. Many of the gardens, noticeably those at the Kadiak village, are close by the settlement, while others are at some distance. The potato crop at Kadiak in 1880 was a total failure, and this happens at intervals of from four to six years. The winter preceding the planting in 1880 was an unusually cold and protracted one, and the season, short at the best, was cut off by unwonted early frosts during September and the latter part of August. The usual growing season, however, opens early in June, from the 1st 38 ALASKA. 39 to the loth, and the potatoes are planted in May, coming up and growing freely until October, when they are harvested. This growth of potatoes, fairly established and well derined, presents the only firm and tangible evidence of agricultural capacity within the limits of Alaska. The turnip grows and flour- ishes wherever the potato succeeds. Mr. Petroff says, in conclusion, that although Alaska will not support any considerable number of people as agriculturists, it is apparent that the existence of those who live in the Territory can be improved by better attention to the development of the resources latent in the soil in certain localities. The people are disinclined to labor in this direction, preferring the profits of hunt- ing. It will be found that points located by the Russians eighty years ago as most suitable for gardening are the best to-day. Captain Beardslee, United States Navy, speaking of the agricul- tural conditions in the vicinity of Sitka, says (Reports on Affairs in Alaska, Senate Ex. Doc. No. 71, Forty-seventh Congress, first session, p. 125) : Whether it be due to the change of climate through the clearing away of many acres of forest or to improved methods I can not say, but for several years past excellent vegetables, such as potatoes, cabbages, etc., have been raised yearly in the neighborhood of Sitka and Wrangel. Near Sitka there are a large number of plots under cultivation. I have seen, two seasons in succession, lettuce of several varieties, cabbages a yard across before they began to head, and 8 to 10 inches in diameter headed; cauliflower weighing from lo to 15 pounds, early rose and peachblow potatoes ranging from 3 to 30 ounces each, and each hill yielding over half a bucket full; turnips of very large size, and cress, radishes, etc., in profusion; green pease of excellent quality, and beds bordered by gooseberries and currant bushes, producing loads of fruit. My lettuce bed kept me supplied from June to September. As to the character of the country in the Yuk jn region, ]\Ir. Dall (Alaska and its Resources, p. 433) says that it '-^aries from rolling and somewhat rocky hills to broad and marshy plains, extending for miles on either side of the river. The underlying rocks in great part are Azoic, being conglomerate, syenite- and quartzite. The south shore of Norton Sound and portions of the Kadiak 40 ALASKA. Peninsula are basalt and lava. There is on the northeast shore of Norton Sound an abundance of sandstone and clay beds containing lignite. Sandstone is also abundant on the Yukon, alternating w ith the Azoic rocks. The superincumbent soil differs in different places. In some localities, it is clayey, and in such situations is quite frequently covered with sphagnum, which always impoverishes the soil immediately beneath it. In others, it is light and sandy, and over a large extent of country it is the richest alluvial, composed of very fine sand, mud, and vegetable matter, brought down by the river and forming deposits of indefinite depth. * * * y^g soil is usually frozen at a depth of 3 or 4 feet in ordinary situa- tions. In colder ones, it remains icy to within 18 inches of the surface. This layer of frozen soil is 6 or 8 feet thick. Below that depth, the soil is destitute of ice, except in very unusual situations. Lieutenant Allen (Report on Expedition to Alaska, 1885) says: I believe that lettuce, radishes, turnips, beans, peas, potatoes, carrots, and possibly buckwheat and barley, can be raised in favored localities on the middle and upper Yukon and Tanana. The climatic conditions of the coast do not prevail here; there is not as much humidity. . . . The summers, though short, are very hot. The sun is almost continually above the horizon, and the ther- mometer has been known to read 112° and 115° F. Although the soil usually remains frozen the year round at a depth of 1 or 2 feet below the surface, this would not necessarily interfere with agricultural pursuits. By cultivation and proper drainage, the distance of the ice bed below the surface would be considerably increased. CATTLE. With reference to cattle and other live stock, Mr. Petroff says: There have been repeated attempts to raise stock cattje, sheep, and hogs m large herds within the borders of Alaska. The subject is one in which the Russians first naturally took a deep interest, for they were fond of good living and were as desirous as any people could be to have the best of beef or mutton and the sweetest pork on their tables. They brought over hardy selections from the Siberian stock, placing the cattle at almost every point of importance for trial. The result, after years of patient and persistent attention, was that ALASKA. 41 the herds on Kadiak Island throve the best and becaine of real serv^ice in assist- ing to maintain the settlement. Here there is a very fine ranging ground for pasture, and in the summer there is the greatest abundance of nutritious grasses, but when the storms of October, freighted with snow, accompanied by cold and piercing gales, arrive and hold their own until the following May, the sleek, fat herd of September becomes very much worn and emaciated. It has given its owner an undue amount of trouble to shelter and feed. Hay, however, suitable for cattle, or at least to keep cattle alive, can be cut in almost any quantities desired for that purpose, but the stress of weather alone, even with abundance of this feed, depresses as it were and enfeebles the vitality of the stock, so that the herds on Kadiak Island have never increased to anvthing approximating a stock grower's drove, rarely exceeding 15 or 20 head at the most. Notable examples of small flocks of sheep which have been brought uj) since the trans- fer and turned out at Unalaska, Unga, and elsewhere have done well. The mutton of the Alaskan sheep when it is rolling in its own fat, as it were, is pronounced by epicures to be very fine ; but the severe winters, which are not so cold as protracted — when the weather is so violent that the animals have to huddle for weeks in some dark, low shelter, cause a sweating or heating of their wool, which is detached and falls off — -greatly enfeebling and emaciating them by spring. The practice of the traders at some places now is to bring beef cattle up in the spring from San Francisco, turn them out into the grazing grounds on the Aleutian Islands, Kadiak, and even to the north, where they speedily round out and flesh up into the very finest beeves by the middle or end of October, when they are slaughtered. Horses, according to Mr. Petroff, have been kept on Wood Island, Kadiak Harbor, for years. A field of 12 acres of oats is regularly sown for their use. The oats grow and frequently head, but never ripen ; the planters cut the green crop for haying pur- poses. Mules and horses have no economic value, there being little service for them on land. REINDEER. Dr. Jackson (Report on Introduction of Domestic Reindeer into Alaska, 1896), says that the vast territory of central and arc- tic Alaska, unfitted for agriculture or cattle raising, is abundantly supplied with long, fibrous white moss, the natural food of the reindeer. Taking the statistics of Norway and Sweden as a guide. 42 ALASKA. arctic and subarctic Alaska can support 9,000,000 reindeer, fur- nishing a supply ot food, clothing, and means of transportation to a population of a quarter of a million. Providence has adapted the reindeer, continues Dr. Jackson, to the peculiar conditions of arctic life, and it furnishes the possibilities of large and increasing commercial industries. The flesh is considered a great delicacy, whether fresh or cured. The untanned skin makes the best cloth- ing for the climate of Alaska, and when tanned is the best leather for the bookbinder, upholsterer, and glove maker. The hair is in great demand, by reason of its wonderful buoyancy, in the con- struction of life-saving apparatus. The horns and hoofs make the best glue known to commerce. With Alaska stocked with this valuable animal, enterprises would be developed amounting to millions of dollars annually. Reindeer will also be found very useful in transportation. Dogs have been used for this purpose, but they are slow and must be burdened with the food for their own maintenance. Provisions and freight brought from the south and landed in Alaska are with great difficulty transported to the mining regions. During the winter of 1895-96, Dr. Jackson says, mongrel Indian dogs cost $100 to $200 each for transportation purposes, and the freight charges ranged from 1 5 to 20 cents per pound. Trained reindeer make in a day two or three times the distance covered by a dog team, and at the end of the journey, can be turned loose to gather their support from the moss always accessible to them. One drawback to their introduction appears to be a disease which attacks the hoof, due to the damp soil. There are now five herds in Alaska, one at Cape Prince of Wales, one at Cape Nome, two at Golovin Bay, and the central Government herd at the Teller reindeer station. Port Clarence, including 1,175 head. VIII. The Fur Seal and Other Fisheries. Mr. James C. Carter, in his oral argument on behalf of the United States, before the Tribunal of Arbitration, at Paris, 1893, gives the following concise sketch of the fur-seal controversy: " During most of the eighteenth century, as all are aware, the efforts and ambitions of various European powers were directed toward the taking possession, the settlement, and the coloniza- tion of the temperate and tropical parts, of the American Con- tinent. In those efforts, Russia seems to have taken a compara- tively small part, if any part at all. Her enterprise and ambi- tion were attracted to these northern seas, seas which border upon the coasts which in part she already possessed, the Siberian coast of Bering Sea. From that, coast explorations were made by enterprising navigators belonging to that nation, until the whole of Bering Sea was discovered, and the coasts on all its sides explored. The Aleutian Islands, forming its southern boundary, were discovered and explored, and a part of what is called the Northwest Coast of the American Continent, south of the Alaskan Peninsula and reaching south as far as the fifty-fourth or fiftieth degree of north latitude, was also explored by Russian naviga- tors, and establishments were formed upon it in certain places. The great object of Russia in these enterprises and explorations was to reap for herself the sole profit and the sole benefit which could be derived from these remote and icebound regions; namely, that of the fur-bearing animals which inhabited them and which were gathered by the native inhabitants. To obtain for herself 43 44 ALASKA. the benefit of those animals and of the trade with the natives wh^ were engaged in gathering them that constituted the main object of the original enterprises prosecuted by Russian naviga- tors. They had at a very early period discovered what we call the Commander Islands on the western side of the Bering Sea, which were then, as they are now, one of the principal resorts and breeding places of the fur seals. They were carrying on a very large, or a considerable, industry in connection with those animals upon those islands. Prior to the year 1787, one of their navigators, Captain Pribilof, had observed very numerous bodies of fur seals making their way northward through the passes of the Aleutian chain. Whither they were going he knew not, but, from his knowledge of the habits of the seals in the region of the Commander Islands, he could not but suppose that there was, somewhere north of the Aleutian chain in the Bering Sea, another great breeding place and resort for these animals. He therefore expended much labor in endeavoring to discover these resorts, and in the year 1786, I think, on one of his voyages, he suddenly found himself in the presence of that tre- mendous roar — a roar almost like that of Niagara, it is said — which proceeds from the countless multitudes of animals upon the islands. He knew then that the object for which he was seeking had been obtained; and waiting until the fog had lifted, he dis- covered before him the islands to which his name was afterwards given. That was in 1786. Immediately following that discov- ery many Russians, sometimes individually and sometimes asso- ciated in companies, resorted to those islands, which were uninhab- ited, and made large captures of seals from them. The mode of taking them was by an indiscriminate slaughter of males and females; and of course, it was not long before the disastrous effects of that method became apparent. They were greatly reduced in numbers, and at one or more times, seemed to be upon the point almost of commercial extermination. By degrees. ALASKA. 45 those engaged in this pursuit learned what the laws of nature were in respect to the preservation of such a race of animals. They learned that they were highly polygamous in their nature, and that a certain draft could be taken from the superfluous males without sensibly depreciating the enormous numbers of the herd. Learning those facts, they gradually established an industry upon the islands, removed a considerable number of the population of one or more of the Aleutian Islands, and kept them permanently there for the purpose of guarding the seals upon the islands and taking, at the time suitable for that purpose, such a number of superfluous males as the knowledge they had acquired taught them could be safely taken. Finally, the system which they established grew step by step more regular and precise; and sometime — 1 think I may say in the neighborhood of 1845 — ^^^7 ^-^^ adopted a regular system vhich absolutely forbade the slaughter of females and confined the taking to young males under certain ages and to a certain annual number. Under that reasonable system, conforming to natural laws, the existence ot the herd was perpetuated and its numbers even largely increased; so that at the time when it passed into the possession of the United States, I think I may say it was true that the numbers ot the herd were then equal to, if not greater, than ever had been known since the islands were first discovered. A similar system had been pursued by the Russians with similar etfect upon the Commander Islands, possessions of their own on the western side of the Bering Sea. The advantage of these results, so beneficial to Russia, so bene- ficial to mankind, may be more easily perceived by comparing them with the results which have flowed from the discovery of other homes of the fur seal in other seas. It is well known that south of the equator and near the southern extremity of the South American continent, there were other islands, Masafuera, Juan Fernandez, Falkland Islands, and other places w^here there were 46 ALASKA. seals in almost equal multitudes. They were on uninhabited islands. They were in places where no protection could be extended against the capture of them. They were in places where no system of regulations limiting drafts which might be made upon them could be established, and the consequence was that in a few short years, they were practically exterminated from every one of such haunts and have remained ever since practically, in a commercial point of view, exterminated, except in some few places over which the authority of some power has been exercised, and where regulations have been adopted more or less resembling those adopted upon the Pribilof Islands, and by which means the race has to a certain extent, although comparatively small, been preserved. That was the condition of things when these islands passed into the possession of the United States under the treaty, between that Government and Russia, of 1867. At first, upon the acqui- sition by the United States Government, its authority was not immediately established and, consequently, this herd of seals was exposed to the indiscriminate ravages of individuals who might be tempted thither by their hope of gaining a profit; and the result was that in the first year, something like 240,000 seals were taken, and although some discrimination was attempted and an effort was made to confine the taking, as far as possible, to males only, yet those efforts were not in every respect successful. That great draft thus irregularly and indiscriminately made upon them had undoubtedly a very unfavorable effect; but LIBRARY n UC SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY AA 001 160 630 8 i;!liiill|l|lil|l|!i!i!llll!ilii