mmimiimmamammmMttmm |iiiiiini«««i«w— »m«i»»— i :^e Hn^ateur cbib Cultivator's (iMiibe TJJJRD EDITION. l^Y n. A. BURBERRY, F.R.HS. /:/-. NET. 1l;.^^'^ ^^i-^ Digitized by tine Internet Arciiive in 2010 witii funding from University of Britisii Columbia Library http://www.archive.org/details/amateurorchidcuOOburb THE AMATEUR ORCHID CULTIVATORS' GUIDE BOOK. H. A. BURBEIiRY, F.R.H.S., Late Orchid Gkower at Highbury, BiRiiiNGHAM (the residekce OF THE Eight Hon. Joseph Chamberlaix, M.P.) contributor of the following, viz, : The Yearly Calendar of Operations on Orchid Culture for the "Orchid Review," 1S94 and 1895; the Orchid Calendar in the " Gardeners' Chronicle," 1892 ; AND the " Gardeners' Magazine" Orchid Calen-dar for 1894, ETC., ETC. THIRD EDITION. WITH TT.LrSTEATIOXS. LIVERPOOL : ELAKE & MACKENZIE, PRINTERS , AND PUBLISHERS. 1900. [Copyright Entered at Stationers' Hall. LIVKKPOOL : PRINTED BY IlLAKK ANIJ MACKKN/.IK, SCHOOL LANK. PREFACE. THE iSecoud Editiou of this work beiug exhausted it has beeu thought desirable to issue a Third Edition. It is a source of the utmost gratification to me to learn from the letters of a large number of readers that the work so well answers the j)urpose for which it was intended, viz. : — That of a text book conveying to the beginner ijiforuiation calculated best to assist him to take up, with reasonable chances of success, the beautiful study of orchids and their culture. To these correspondents, as well as to the Editors and Eeviewers of the gardening periodicals, I beg to offer my grateful thanks for pointing out faults, as well as bestowing so much greatly appreciated praise of the book. Some few have suggested a considerable enlargement, so as to embrace practically the whole of the species known to cultivation. While acknowledging this would be a great improvement I need hardly say it would at the same time greatly add to the size of the work and consequently the price, while it is somewhat doubtful if its real value and xisefulness would increase accordingly. Kemembering therefore the mission for which it first saw light {^a- /ia(/f 14;}), I propose to add instead another cli a] )ter entitled " Results of furthei- experience, or the Amateur's Orchid House" and another on the "Culture of Odonto- glossum crispum," wliich 1 hope may still further assist. As various writers on orchids, and compilers of Catalogues, do not all agree as to the sjielling of the names of some Orchids, I thought it best to be guided in this matter by some high atitliority, and have to thank Mr. II. A. Rolfe for his most valuable services in this respect, and for kindly reading the proofs. H. A. BURBEERY. Iv. CONTENTS. IXTUODUCTIOX ... Cattleyas ANii Lelias Dendrobiums ... Odontoglossums and Oncidiums Cypkipediums ... INIasdevallias .. Artificial Heatin'g ... Stoking the Fires ... Venttlation ... Shading The Atmosphere Temperature ... Potting and Basketing Cattleyas Odontoglossums and Oncidiums ... Oypripediums... „ Dendrobiums Time of Repotting ... Pots and Baskets ve?-i If. 16 21 23 24 2fi 26 29 31 32 3.^. 35 36 36 39 40 41 42 48 49 .^,1 51 52 56 56 57 58 58 60 61 62 6; 5 to 74 75 DS.7 6 to 91 91 to 113 113 to 128 129 to 134 134 to 138 139 to 143 144 145 ILLUSTRATIONS. AuTiMN A\n Winter Flowering Orchids (Plate 3) ... between 62 „ ( „ 4) ... „ 74 Blind, Lath Roller (Fig. 10) Boilers in Position ... Cattleya, as Imported (Fig. 0) ... „ Mendelii, a good specimen of ,, MOSSIAE, single flower of one of its VARIET1E.S „ SPECIMEN PLANT OF ... NEWLY POTTED (FiG. 11) schr0eder.e Cypku'Edium insigne (Fig. 9) „ SANDKRi; DrNUKOBIUM hfOBILE, ESTABLISHED (FiG. 5) SPECIMEN PLANT OF... SHOWING PAN AND BASKET CULTURE THYRSIPLORUM ... WaRDIANUM, NEWLY IMPORTED (FiG L^LIA PUKPUEATA, FLOWERING PLANT OF . . . „ SHOWING METHOD OP PROPAGATION (FlG. Odontoglossum X Andersonianuji v.\-r... 3UPKRBUM CRISPUjr, .VS IMPORTKD (FiG. 7) „ PARTIAL SPRAY OF „ SEMI-ESTABLISHED (FlG. S) „ XANTIIOTES X HORSMANII A Model ... „ FuR Ca'ITLKYAS, AT HiGHBDRY Lean-to (Fig. 1) ,, Span-roofed (Fig. 2) Show House at Highbury Selenipkdium (Cypripedium) Skdeni Wintkr and Spring Flowering Orchids (Plate 1) commencement of „ .. ., { „ 2) ... between 30 1)K0 HID Hoise, (Fig. 12) 6) ... 13) ... PAGK. and 63 „ 7.5 27 101 93 9.3 33 97 19 87 11 123 37 107 13 77 43 81 81 17 7/ 17 81 81 59 xi. r 6 r.3 117 book and 51 Tlie blocks used for illustrating pages 77, 93, 97, 107, 117 and 123 are supplied by Messi-s. Pitcher & Manda, New Jersey, U.S.A. I have also to thank the Editor of that valuable Journal "Thk Orchid Rkvikw" for tlie loan of the blocks used to illustrate pages 81, 87 and 101. INDEX PACJE. Ada aurantiaca ... ... ... 91 Aerides Fieldingi 134 „ odoratiim ... ... 113 Amateurs' Collections, vars. for 70 Angra-cuin Sanderianum ... 11.) „ sesquipedale ... IH Aiiguloa Clowesii ... ... 90 Ruckeri 132 Answers to Questions ... ... 1G2 Artificial Heating ... •■■ -1 Atmosphere ... ... .■• -0 Basketing and Totting... ... 31 Baskets and Pots versus J?k)ulglossa ... 135 „ as imported ... ... 7 Bowringiana ... ... 135 ,, citrina... ... ... 100 „ Dowiana aurea ... 91 ., Eldorado ... .'..119 Fly 4G ,, Gaskelliana ... ... P2 „ Harrisoniana ... ... 13(5 „ hints on ... ... 9 House at Highbury ... xi. intermedia ... ... 136 „ labiata... ... ... 9l5 „ Ijawrenceana ... ... 11 ti ., . Loddigesii ... ... 100 Lueddemanniana ... 142 maxima ... ... 136 Mendelii 96 ,, good .specimen 101 Mossiae ... ... 96 Cattleya Mossiae, specimen plant 93 ,, newl\' imported ... 33 „ Percivaliana ... ... 136 „ potting 32 ,, Schroederfe ... ... 99 „ ,. flower of .. 97 ., Skinneri ... ... 135 „ Trianae 99 ., Warscewiczii ... ... 95 Chysis hractescens ... ... 128 Cleanliness ... ... ... 42 Cockroaches ... ... ... 46 Coelogyne cristata ... ... S9 „ „ Lemoniana... 133 ,, Ma.ssangeana ... 103 Cold, protection from ... ... 61 Collections, vars. for Amateurs". 76 Cool Hou.se ... ... ... 57 „ Orcliids, 24 varieties ... 76 ,, supplementary ... 129 Cymbidiuni ehurneum ... ... 103 „ Lowianum... ... 134 Cypripedium Argus ... ... 138 ,, barhatuni ... 143 „ bellatulnni ... 120 Boxallii 134 ,, Chamberlainianuiu 139 Curtisii 139 X llarrisiannm ... 103 liints on ... ... 15 Hookeraj 140 ,, insigne ... ... 86 ,, ,, Chantini ... 89 ,, ,, Sanderae, flower of 87 „ ,, specimen... 19 ., liawrenceanum ... 119 niveum ... ... 140 potting ... ... ;>r> Spicerianum ... 104 Stonei 143 ., vennstuni ... 139 „ villosum ... ... 89 )endrobJum x Ains worthii PAGE. ! 122 Intermediate Orchids, 24 vars... PAGF.. 91 „ aureum Beetle 122 47 „ „ supplementary Liclia albida 134 135 ohrysantlnini crassinode 141 MO ,. anceps „ Sanderian;v 106 135 densiflonim 140 autumnalis 109 Faiconeri 133 ,. cinnabarina 134 Findlayanum forniosuni gigant'm ,, hints on ... Jamesianum 122 12f. 10 8C j ,, Dayana ... „ X elegaus „ harpophylla „ hints on . . . 133 132 9 luteolum ... 141 ,. pra?stans ... 90 nobile ., establiflied... ,, ,, specimen of.. 121 11 123 ,, propagation of ... ,, purpurata „ „ flowering plant o\ 43 109 7/ ,, pan and basket culture 3/ Ly caste aromatica „ Deppei ... 138 133 Phalsenopsis Schniidorianuni 12.5 ,, Skinneri Manure Aid 110 60 Pieranli 141 Masdevallia x Chelsoni 131 potting thjrrsiHorum 36 105 Harryana ... ... 84 „ coerule-sfrens 131 „ specimen Wardianuni 107 126 ,. „ armeniaca , ,, hints on ... . 21 16 ,, as importet 13 ignea 84 Pisa granditiora . . 85 ,. Shuttle worthii . 131 Diseases ... 51 ,, tovarensis . . . . 136 Epidendrum vitellinum ... 85 „ Veitchiana . 84 Wallisii 134 Maxillaria grandiflora . 85 Evaporating Troughs ... Fertilisation of Flowers fm- Seec t)0 1 49 „ venu-ta Miltonia Roezlii . 132 . 140 Fires, stoking tlit- . 23 ,. ve.villiiria . 110 Flowers ... . 56 Mormodes pardiiiuiii . 142 Fumigation Heat, excessive . 45 . 62 Odontoglossum x* Antlerson- ianum var.. flower n f 81 Heating, Artificial . 21 j ,, Andersonianum Hints to Orchid Buyers 75 8uperl)um, flower ( f 81 House, A Model Orchid „ Cattleya „ Lean-to 5!i xi. ,, bictoniense „ blandum ,. Cervantesii ... . 129 . 130 . 79 „ Orchid Show ... ,. Span-roofed . 53 6 ,. citro-mum 1 „ cordatum . 104 . 130 ,. The Cool The Intermediate . 57 58 ,, crispum ,, ,, as iuiixjrted . .. 76 .. 17 The Warm or P'ast India r)8 1 ■„ „ senii-estii-b. . .. 17 Imported Orchids, treatment i Insect Life f 40 . 42 „ .. spray of „ ., xantliotes. II Inte. mediate House . 53 Bower 3f SI Odontoglossiim Edwardii ., gloriosum .. Hallii .. hints on ,, Horsmanii, Flower of Insleayi ,, luteo-purpureuiu maculatuni ,. nebulosum Pescatorei .. potting pulchelluni nuijus Rossii ... ,, triumphans Oncidiuin Cavendi.shianuin flexuosuni Forbesii hints on Krauieriauum ., inacranthum . . . ,. Marshallianum ,, ornithorhynchum ., I'apilio ., potting ., tigriniim „ varicosum Peach H ouse, li.st of vais. for . . . Peristeria elata ... Phaius grandifolius Phalffinopsis Schilleriaiia Pihimna fragrans Plants to be grown w ith Orchids Pleione lagenaria „ inacidata Positions Pots and Baskets vcrnus Blocks Potting and Basketing... Propagation Protection from C!!old ... Questions and Answers... Red Spider Remedies Repotting, time of Resting ... Saccolabium Bhimei • Scale Seed, Fertilisation of Flowers for ., Orchids from 129 79 PAGE. Selenipedium(Cypr.)Dominianuml20 ., Roezlii ... 120 129 .. Seden. 119 15 ,, .. „ flowerof 117 81 Shading 25 138 „ Blind for 27 129 Slugs 4f! 130 130 Smoky Towns, Orchids in Sobralia macrantha 145 111 79 „ xantholeuca ... 138 35 130 JO Sophronitis granditiora . Stanhopea insignia „ oculata 83 142 142 79 „ tigriua 128 141 Stoking the Fires 23 142 Syringing 45 131 In Temperature Tables of 29 31 141 Thunia Marshalliana ... 112 80 Tobacco Powder 46 130 ,, Water 45 131 'I^eatment for January 63 127 .. February 64 35 March 65 SO 83 144 ,. April May June 66 67 68 142 127 July „ Au-ust . . 69 70 126 137 „ September ,, October ... 71 72 56 „ November 73 131 December 74 132 Tabulated 52 Instructions oi 146 39 31 11 Trichopilia suavi.s Troughs, Evaporating Vanda coerulea ... 137 60 137 61 Kimballiana 84 162 ,, suavis 137 47 Ventilation 24 42 Vineries, list of varieties for 144 36 Warm Orchids, 24 varieties 113 51 139 ., ., supplementary.. ,. or Ea.st India House 139 58 45 Watering 51 49 Woodlice... 46 •IS Zygopetalum Mackayi ... 113 THE AMATEUR ORCHID C U L T I V A T O R S GUIDE BOOK. .4^ Plate 1. t— ■ ; V>-.": .» Si.'" «:»'A Ai> /l\--^^ 1 1 \/ h r ./ ^-^ /f ^v^ 1— Odontogiossum Cervantesii. 2 Odomogiossum Hallil. 3 -OdontogloESum crispuni rliglit variety). 4— Odonroj^lossuin crispum (rosy variety). 5 -Cymbidiuin eburneum. 6 -Oncidiuin cheiroptiorum. 7 Ada aurantiaca. 8 Cyprlpediuni barbatiim. 9 Soplvroniiis grandiflora. Plate 1. (llOKI or THK rLOWBRI AJtK MTCB 1^ "^^ ORCHIDS HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. THE wT-iter of tliis little manual ha-ang, for many years, devoted his attention to the study of Orchids and theri- cultivation, is desu-ous of imparting to others whose opportunities may have been less favourable, the results of a pretty wide and varied experience. In so doing, it will be his aim to dispel some en-oneous impressions in regard to the subject which, if um-efuted, are calculated to diminish the popularity of a most lovely and interesting family of plants, as well as to deter many amateui-s from attempting their cultivation. Such a cu-cumstance would be much regi-etted, for a delightful recrea- tion is unquestionably lost by those who love their gardens, and attend with pleasui-e to their greenhouse plants, if the aristocratic Orchid is not included in then- collection ; its beauty, if equalled, being but rarely surpassed by that of any other plant, so that, once the grower's interest is thorouglily awakened, he becomes so enamoured of his new hobby as to prefer it to all others, however interesting. It is very important that it should be well understood hov.- successfully Orchids may be gi-owoi, side by side, with other stove and greenhouse plants, such as I shall hereafter enumerate ; and it is therefore quite unnecessary that the grower should devote liis attention to the former alone, there being many greenhouse favoui'ites, at once beautiful in flower and foliage, which he might easily select as fitting associates, and which, under similar treatment, woxild thi'ive equally well. Ferns, for instance, are particularly adapted for growing in the same house. Orchids cannot faU. to be a source of the greatest pleasiu-e to the cultivator, who soon finds himself deeply interested in the growth of his plants, iiTcspectively of their beautiful flowers, and watches with infinite satisfaction the development of the fine healthy foliage, the shooting of the tender roots as they appear at the base of the pseudobulbs and gi-aduaUy take possession of the compost, or the young pseudobulb as it forms and matures. 2 ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. Nineteen years' practical experience in Orchid growing has sho^vn me that, when once their natui-e is thoroughly understood, much less attention than is generally thought necessary is requisite to gi-ow them successfully, then.' requirements being so simple as to encroach less than what,.is thought upon the grower's time. It is quite true that some species stUl baffle the most experienced cultivators, owing, no doubt, to an imperfect knowledge of the climatic and natural con- ditions they enjoy in their native habitat ; but, as these varieties are somewhat difficult to gi-ow, I shall not recommend them to the amateui-'s consideration until he has gained more experience ; for, as a rule, such sorts are less beautiful than others of easy gro-wth, and can therefore be dispensed with. When the necessary cultm-e of a genus or species becomes generally knowTi, the ease and simplicity of its cultivation are speedily made manifest to the inexperienced amateur, thus leading to its more extended culture and that better appreciation which it so richly deserves. I am anxious, both for the sake of our Orchids, as well as for the benefit of those who may wish to attemi)t their cultivation, to point out that there is absolutely no difficulty but what may easily be overcome, as soon as an ordinary knowledge of their requirements has been acquii-ed. And, in order to assist amateurs, I shall do my best to give them such practical information as will materially aid them, provided the instructions I now write for their guidance are carefully perused and strictly followed. Why are Orchids generally supposed to be an expensive luxury and out of the reach of all save the most wealthy ? I think these notions have arisen from the fact that when Orchids are ^^Titteu about in newspapers and periodicals, they are invariably associated with the name of some well-known and wealthy individual as then- possessor, which leads many persons to regard theni as the exclusive property of a privileged few, and consequently invests them with such a degree of costliness as to make them entirely inaccessible to the humbler amateur. There are, I am pleased to be able to say, in answer to this, many collections of Orchids now in existence throughout the country, some of them very extensive, and containing rare and expensive sorts, owned by gentlemen with only a local reputation as business or public men ; while a large number of amateurs, possessing only a gTeenhouse or two, are forming collections of a less pretentious character, com- mencing under good advice with easily cultivated sorts. This is most gratif.ying to Orchidists, and I venture to hope that this little guide book will induce many others to take up Orchids, as I feel confident that the great beauty of theu- flowers, as well as then- lasting qualities, will amply repay any anxiety or ti-ouble bestowed u})on them. Eefei-ring for a moment to a somewhat general impression that Orchids are difficult to manage, I must confess that there are some which are not easy to cultivate, or rather to nuiintaiu in a healthy ORCHIDS : now TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFU1,LY. 3 flowering condition for many years in succession ; yet, there is nothing very extraordinary ia this, as the same difficulty presents itself ia regard to other jjlants. But it is not to those plants which are difficult to manage that I shall now devote attention, there being so large a field of species and vaiieties of easy culture to choose from. No one therefore need be disheartened if unsuccessful in the first attempt, merely because he may occasionally see some Orchids in a very unhealthy condition, even in gardens of considerable pretensions, where, owing to the gardener's want of knowledge of this particular class of plant, arising very often from no fault of his own, but fi'om the fact that he has previously had no Orchids under his charge, and consequently no opportunity of studying then- nature and requii-e- ments. In some cases, it may be the result of the gardener's insensibility to the necessity of obtaining information on the subject ; under such circumstances failure must of necessity follow. An impression also exists that Orchids are very expensive. This, however, applies only to very new or extremely rare kinds, many of which are not more beautiful than older sorts that are easily procurable at a moderate price — say a few shillings. It is the Orchid enthusiast who, wishing to add new introductions of supposed merit to his collection, seeks these new and rare kinds as introduced ; and it is well that it should be so, otherwise many most valuable sorts would be vei-y rarely seen. There is a very beautiful species of the popular genus Odontoglossum, named O. crispum {syn. O. Alexandrae), which deserves a prominent place in every collection of Cool Orchids, and which is purchaseable at a very small cost. And it often happens that amongst a quantity of plants of this kind, flowering in this coimtry for the fu'st time, some turn out to be of great value, in consequence of their being recognised as vastly improved varieties ; whereas, others, showing no improvement on those already in existence, are, not-wdthstanding their attractions, classed among those of com- I)aratively little value. I by no means advocate the buj-ing and gro\ving of Orchids as a pecuniary speculation, the enjojTuent of theii- great loveliness being the only consideration; still, the fact remains that the selHng value of an Orchid is fixed by the exceptional merit and beauty of its flowers, in size, colour, and form. I have often heard gardeners, who do not understand the treat- ment of Orchids, declare, as an excuse for avoiding their culture, that these plants deteriorate. This is another eironeous impression which I should like to correct. There can be no manner of doubt that under unsldlful and improper treatment Orchids lose vitality and often die, and this result follows with any other i)lant under similar conditions ; but the same plant taken in hand, if not quite dead, and transfen-ed to a proper temperature, where it is uniformly treated ^^^th all that is necessary to infuse life and vigour into it, will sometimes revive and 4 ORCHIDS : HOW TO GKOW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. become healthy and strong. "UTien Orchids are improperly treated, or placed in a temperatui'e that does not suit them, they soon dwindle and assume a sickly appearance ; but if their natm-al position in the country whence they came is thoroughly studied, and imitated as nearly as possible, then a gi-adual addition to their yearly growth is made, and successful culture engured. And this success is sometimes attained in the near vicinity of suioky to'\\ais, and under fm'ther unfavourable circumstances tending against successful plant culture. I have known persons, who j)rofessed to have a knowledge of Orchids, persistingly assert, despite all contradiction, that these plants bloom but once in several years ; and it is to be regi-etted that such a wi'ong idea should prevail, for, under proper management, an established plant will bloom once a year, sometimes twice ; that is, svipposing the said plant is akeady of a flowering size ; and if it be not so, it should not have been bought, as it causes delay and dis- appointment to the pm'chaser, who is naturally anxious to see it in flower. Amateiu's should therefore secure strong flowering-sized plants to start with, even at a little more cost. Some commence forming a collection of Orchids Tvithout having any practical knowledge of theii' cultm-e, trusting to theii- gardener's skill, who may possibly never have gi'own an Orchid, and consequently knov.'s but little about it ; thus failure upon failure ensues. It would be far better, in every way, when forming a collection of Orchids, to secure the services of a suitable person with, at least, a moderate knowledge of the plants, who would be willing to improve that knowledge and seek for all the necessary information respecting their treatment. This should be done in the first instance — even if tmce the wages of an incompetent num has to be paid in order to accomplish it — for the best kinds of Orcliids grow in money value, as well as in size, quite independently of the great pleasure they afford ; 'whereas, if improperly treated, thcj^ will probably disappear altogether. So many instances of miserable misadveutiu'e are met Tvith, as the outcome of improper ad\'ice, that I have long felt that practical and reliable information at the beginning would lead to much more satis- factory results, hence the publication of this little Guide Book. I purpose, in plain words, giving easily understood instructions on important points belonging to every-day work which have to be kept well in view. One important point to be considered being — what convenience akeady exists for gi-owing these plants ■nathout building a house expressly for them ; also, if the existing structure was intended either for a Warm, Intermediate, or as a Cool greenhouse ; if in a light open position or a shaded one, and Avhat heat can be relied upon in very cold weather. It will then be necessary to ascertain what Orchids are most suitable and likely to flourish there without giWng imuli trouble, or demanding more attention than other plants which are ^^■ell ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. 5 grown. I will now endeavour to explain the difference in temperature of the Cool, the Intermediate, and the Warm house of a higher tem- perature, in order that learners may form an idea as to what class of Orchids are adapted for tlieii- houses, and to enable them the better to understand the gi-owth and requirements of the plants under their care. Formerly it was thought necessary, in order to cultivate Orchids, that some special structure should be built for them ; but years of experience have proved that a disused vinery, or an ordinary green- house where a general collection of plants are grown, will suit Orchids equally well, pro\'ided they arc properly attended to. Of coiu'se, as previously stated, it is necessary, before making a purchase, to consider to what different sj)ecies of Orchids the house is best adapted ; for instance, the degree of heat at command, and the amount of light or shade afforded, must be taken into account, and I will endeavour to explain this fully. I do not recommend the cultivation of Orchids ^dth fruit trees in the same house, although it can be done, and sometimes successfully, by those who fully understand their require- ments during the various stages of gi'owth, but, unless in very experienced hands, such treatment would most probably end in failure, and I am desirous of bringing about an opposite state of affairs. Many of the most beautiful species of Cool and Intermediate Orchids will, as before remarked, grow with other plants, provided the conditions of the atmosphere and temperature are suitable. I am aware that many amateurs, especially those living in towns, labour under a difficulty, owing to the limited area of their glass structures which are sometimes placed in unfavourable positions, although some of these may be suitable for a restricted class of plants. It is not unusual to see a glass structure resembling (Fig. 1) a lean-to house FlQ. I. LEAN-TO HOUSE. 6 ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEil SUCCESSITXLY. against the dwellmg-house or a garden wall, having an east or west aspect, and where Orchids, requiring the treatment of an Intermediate house, can be grown, as also many of the Stove (Warm-house) Orchids. If such a lean-to house has either a north, north-east, or north-west aspect. Cool Orchids will flourish ; but it is not possible to grow Cool- house Orchids in a lean-to house facing the south, unless it be shaded from the sun by tall trees, but such an aspect would exactly suit either Intermediate or Warm Orchids. Should the house be a span-roofed one, as in Fig. 2, and standing in an open situation, then it could be made suitable for all species of Orchids, either Cool, Intermediate, or Warui- house, as well as those loving sunshine or thriving best in the shade. In such a house the atmosphere, temperatm-e, and other conditions cotdd be regulated as desired, by the aid of shading, ventilation, &c. If, on the other hand, this house should bo natm-ally shaded by the growth of trees or tall buildings, it would bo most suitable for Orchids lo\'ing shade, or partial shade, and requii-e the use of roller blinds only when the sun acts dii-ectly upon the house. Having decided as to what plants the houses are best adapted, the next point will be how to buy the plants ; and although this may, at first sight, appear to be an easy matter, it is nevertheless an important one. as success or disappointment depends very much upon the health and strength of the plant when purchased. Amatem-s, therefore, .should be very cautious in making their pmchases, especially at first, for they are too often at the mercy of those who sell — some of whom are not over scrupulous in what they sell to beginners — so that those about to purchase will act wisely in consulting some experienced cultivator of Orchids, or, at all events, some person who understands thom, and really knows ORCHIDS : nOTV TO GROW XnEM SUCCESSFULLY, Fig. 3. CATTLEYA, as imported. ORCHIDS : now to grow them StrcCESSFDLLY. 9 whether a plant is healthy or not, and what its approximate value may be. Then the buyer has some chance of success with the plants selected to suit his gi-eenhouse, and other conditions of culture, and he will uatui-ally look forward to the pleasui-e they -will afford him when in bloom. But as such advice is not always within the reach of those who need it, I shall do my best to supply that want and make my meaning as clear as possible. There is one word of caution which I here desire to impress upon buyers, and that is, do not on any account buy rubbish merely for the sake of saying, •' I gi-ow Orcliids ! " and by no means be tempted to pin-chase small, insignificant plants simply because they are cheap. Orchids are rather slow growing plants, and if small and weakly bits of back pseudobulbs or weak spindhng plants are bought, they require special care and attention, as well as the most judicious treatment, and much time is therefore lost before they can be got into a favom'able condition and reach the flowering stage ; so that the patience of the grower becomes exhausted, and the plants are either allowed to linger on or are thi-own away. Overcrowding is another evil to be avoided, and when large quantities are grown in limited spaces, it is one of the gi-eatest difficulties an Orchid cultivator has to contend with. Each plant should be accessible and easily seen by the cidtivator at all times, but more especially during the growing season, in order that he may ascertain whether it requu-es water or is not overwatered, and to see that the young roots are unmolested or destroyed by various insect pests, such as wood lice, cockroaches, slugs, &c., and that the foHage is free from thrip or gi'een or yellow fly. In a large collection, where plants are counted by the thousand, and a good staff of assistants are kept, it is, even then, difficult to give every plant necessary attention, so that the small gi'ower has here an advantage in being able to give full attention to the few plants under his care. CATTLEYAS AND LJELIAS. Presuming that Cattlej'as, of such species as labiata, Trianae, Mossiae, and Mendeli in their varieties, also vaiious others, are being purchased, good plants of these, with a leading growth, can readily be obtained at 4s. each, and with two leading groA\'ths at 7s. 6d. each, the price varjong according to the sti'ength of the I)laut and the excellence of the variety. I ad%'ise amatem's to start \\dth such plants rather than those with a larger nimiber of leading shoots, as they are more easily managed. Fig. 3 represents a newly imported jilant showing the leading pseudobulb and tlit- back pseudobulbs. The back bulbs, after flowering, are of no fui'ther use for blooming again, but serve as reservoirs for the plants by storing up nutriment during the growing or wet season for the use of 10 ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW XHEII SUCCESSFULLY. the plant during the dry season, so that the old pseudobulbs, apparently of no use to the inexperienced in Orchid cultui-e, are still a part of the plant and continue for years to render assistance to it. I have, however, invariably found that under artificial cultivation they are of very little use after the fifth year, and when the plants are repotted they may be removed from theii' position, but not thi'own away, for if there are any dormant eyes, thej^ may push into other leading gi-owths. In the case of Oncidiums or Odontoglossruns, the old pseudobulbs shoidd remain until they turn yellow and die. In buying plants of Cattleyas, the last fully-developed bulbs shovdd be supported by at least three or fom- back ones, to give strength and nourishment to the new gi-owth. I have quoted prices as a gLude to beginners as to what class of plants to buy, these prices being generally considered to be fair to the buyer and seller ; although, when a large importation of plants amve in good condition, they may sometimes be purchased from the importer or at auction sales at a lower price. DENDEOBIUMS. In buying such useful and beautiful species of Dentli'obiums as nobile, Wardianum, and others, prices vary as in Cattleyas, and are ruled by the quantity of plants coming forward. D. nobile is one of the oldest species, and yet one of the very best and easiest grown. It is, however, advisable to buy established plants, as it is always cheaj), and blooms are formed on the previous year's growth. It often happens that the old growths on imported plants become. injm-ed to some extent in transit, which prevents their flowering well, and two years "ndll elapse before much bloom can be expected. Nearly all other Dendrobiums, which are not garden hybrids, may be pm-chased either newly imported or as established plants ; but in the case of D. Wardianuin, D. crassinode. D. Devonianinn. and D. formosum giganteum, it is decidedly advant^igeous to buy strong newlj- imported or semi-established plants, carefully selecting those in a fine healthy condition. Fig. 5 represents an established plant in a o-inch pot of D. nobile having four leads, os. being a fair value of such a plant. Fig. 6 rei)reseuts an imported plant of D. Wardianum with two leads. and should be bought for 4s. In buying Dendrobiums, they should have two or thi-ee pscudolmlbs disconnected at the rhizome in addition to the last made pseudobulb, counting as one leading growth. Dendrobiums do not really depend upon the old pseudobulbs from which to draw nourishment so much as some Orchids; they may therefore be cut away from the base of the plant, if it is advisable to propagate and increase the variety {see Notes on Propagation, pnfje 41), leaving about four old pseudobulbs to support eacli forthcoming growth. ORCHIDS : now TO GROW THEJI SUCCESSFULLY. 11 Fig. 5. DENDROBIUM NOBILE. established. ORCHIDS : now to GKOW TIIEM SUC'CESSl'ULLY. 13 Fig. 6. DENDROBIUM WARDIANUM, newly imported. ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. 15 ODONTOGLOSSUMS AND ONCIDIUMS. These lovely and interesting genera of Orcliids are general favourites, owing no doubt to the fact that, in addition to their beauty, the greater part of them can be grown successfully under cool treat- ment, and on that account are not so expensive to cultivate as those requiring more warmth. A large collection of these charming and useful Orchids could be got together, all of which would flourish under exactly the same conditions, and thus one house would, if properly managed, fiu-uish the year round a good supply of the most lovely flowers imaginable. The great beauty and exceptionally meritorious character each individual species possesses, would fill volumes if full justice were done them. I propose to say but httle in this direction, as it is a subject really of no aid to cultivation. In these days the general beauty and interesting character of Orchids are freely written about in various books and magazines, independently of the gardening press, but to read of the special qualities of a flower is one thing, and to grow that flower is another ; therefore, I adhere chiefly to cultural directions, so that amateurs may be in a position to produce the flowers and see for themselves. Most of these cool growing Odontoglossums and Oncidiums are very cheap and exceedingly beautiful. Odont. crispum and Odont. Pescatorei, being two of the very best, should occupy a prominent position in every collection. These and other popular varieties may be pm-chased as strong imported or established plants ; but by buying the latter in a healthy condition much time is gained, as the imported ones are slow in becoming established, and the others are purchaseable at almost any reasonable price ; good plants of ordinary varieties selling at from 2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d. each, while as much as 50 guineas has sometimes been paid for a plant of an exceptionally fine or rare variety. It is best, therefore, to pay a reasonable jjrice and start well with good plants. Fig. 7 represents an imported plant of Odont. crispum, a fair value being about 3s. to 5s. Fig. 8 represents a semi-established plant, obtainable at a cost of from 5s. to 7s. 6d. Odont. crispum {syn. Odont. Alexandi'se), is a universal favoui-ite, and is imported in very large numbers, finding a ready sale , but these, if strong and healthy, can seldom be purchased at lower prices than I have named. CYPRIPEDIUMS {The Lady's Slipper). These are Orchids ha%-ing no pseudobulbs. and on that account are somewhat difficult to import and establish, but when successfully done they generally admit of easy culture. It is, however, best under all circumstances to procure established plants, and although very far from possessing the beauty and attractiveness of a Cattlej'a or a Dendi'obe, 16 ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. still there is a gi'eat deal of beauty in tlieni all — some uiucli more than in others — and all are most interesting and of comparatively easy culture. The most common, and one of the oldest and the freest growing of all, is C. insigne, still ranking as one of the best, good plants of which, in o-inch pots, represented by Fig. 9, capable of bearing five or six flowers, can be purchased at from 5s. to 7s. 6d. There are many varieties of C. insigne, more or less expensive, according to the quahty of the variety, but the t}'pical form is handsome and can be gro\\Ti so easily. Perhaps the most interesting and distinct form of C. insigne is to be found in C. insigne, var. Sanderse, in which white and clear yellow colours predominate. (This was purchased by Baron Schroder for a large sum, and is now in several collections.) There are many other species and varieties of Cypripediums, nice plants of which may be secui'cd at prices varjdng from OS. to 20s., whilst other rare species and hj'brids are more expensive. Cj'pripediums have now for several years held a prominent position and are established favourites ; the diversity in colour of the various kinds, the interesting formation of their flowers, and their easy culture, having done so much to secure this popularity. It is quite easy by cross fertilisation to obtain seed which, in the majority of instances, will germinate, and in the hands of oiu- hybridists, new forms, some of which are of great beauty and "distinctness, are j'oarly being added to oui' collections. These, together with the different varieties of the many species, make up an extraordinary number of named sorts. MASDEVALLIAS. I now wish to say a few words about this very interesting genus of epiphytal Orchids. This genus was named in honour of Joseph Masdeval, a Spanish physician and botanist, and is a very large one, there being upwards of 150 known species. Comparatively few species, however, merit cultivation for their beauty ^one, although all are extremely interesting ; and in forming a collection of theni many wonderfully quaint and curi(jus forms and colours will bo found, some of the tints being very peculiar. Masdcvallias are Cool gi'owing Orcliids, and as many of them are of a very close, compact habit, they only require to be accommodated in small pans or in baskets suspended from the roof ; therefore a large collection can be grown in a small space. A house which is in a sheltered position, both from strong ■vsdnds and from the strong rays of the sumuKM- sun, suits them best, as then a moist and regular tcmpcratm-e and atmosphere can be evenly balanced, such as is congenial to this genus. Tliey gi'ow freely if potted in equal parts of sphagnum moss and peat, with a little coarse sand mixed in to keep the compost porous and sweet; for strong growing kinds a little fibrous loam may ORCHIDS : now to grow them successfully. Fig. 7. ODONTOGLOSSUM CRISPUM. as imported. Fig 8. ODONTOGLOSSUM CRISPUM, semi-establi^med. OKCHIDS : now TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. 19 ORCHIDS : now to grow them successfully. 21 be mixed iu with advantage, and they should be given a position in the house not too far from the glass roof. Masdevallias under wrong treatment, such as over-indulgence in watering, being kept too dry, or when subjected to extreme heat or cold, refuse to make much headway — their leaves di'op, the plant decays, and, ha\'ing no pseudo- bulbs, they quickly disappear ; but, on the other hand, they are very easily cultivated if the house and treatment suits them. Such species as HaiTyana, Veitchiana, and other similar strong gi-owing kinds, are best grown in pots. The pots should be crocked for drainage to one-half their depth and the plants made moderately firm in the compost, as already indicated, using pots sufficiently large for the plants, and allowing an inch from the leading growth to the rim of the pot. In potting, the plants need not be elevated very high above the lim, or trouble may be experienced in making the plant secure, which must be done ; otherwise, if left in a loose and unstable condition, the plants are unable to become quickly re-established and consequently dwindle. Small neat sticks should bo used for this purpose, to keep the i^lants fu-nily in their jjlaces until tliey become self-sujiporting masses. The compost, after repotting, should be care- fully watered, keeping it just moist only until the new roots appear and get hold of the compost, then more water may be given. Drought at the roots is not conducive to good gro'W'th, but it is safer to en- on that side than to give too much water. The temperature really most suitaljle for a collection of Masdevallias is one a few degrees higher tlian that advised for the Cool Odontoglossum house during winter, but in summer as cool as possible. Tlie species, M. Harryana, is named after Mr. Hany Veitch, the nead of the great Chelsea fu'm of niu'serjTnen, and the varieties of this species are very numerous and beautiful, and a great diversity of colour exists. There is in existence a pure white form, and the darkest colour knowTi is the Bull's Blood variety, while M. Harryana armeniaca is a lovely oi'unge colour ; such varieties as these are very expensive, but the typical forms are very cheap. The time of flowering for Masdevallias is generally from March to July, but a few are to be had in bloom the whole year round. Repot in February, or directly after flowering, about July. ARTIFICIAL HEATING. Heating by hot water is a most important matter, and, of course, the more perfect the arrangements the better can the desu'ed degree of warmth be maintained. When this work is entrusted to a liot- water engineer, it is usually properly fitted and left in good working order ; but it sometimes liappens that when a house is to be used for a class of plants it was not orighially built for, and there is a probability that there may be an insufficiency or a 22 ORCHIDS : now to grow tuem successfully. superabundance of warmtli, it becomes necessary to examine the heating power of the boiler and pipes in order to find out the defects in any part. Many kinds of boilers are in use ; but whatever description of boiler may be decided upon, care should be taken that it is of sufHcient size to heat whatever length of piping is attached to it, so that in hard wintry weather plenty of heat may be readily obtained to ensure a regular and perfect temperatiu-e without inducing strain or undue pressui-e upon the boiler. BOILER IN POSITION. Such a boiler as shown here is one that can always be relied upon. In the event of nuiking any alteration in an existing house, or building new houses, it is well to have more hot-water pipes fixed than are actually sufficient, rather than not enough. For instance, a more genial growing temperature is generated from, say, four pipes made slightly warm, than from two pipes, which would probably have to be made very hot, and so give off diy, fiery heat. \^Tien there is more than one house heated from the same boiler, it is best to have sufficient valves, so that the hot water can be tm-ned on to one liousc only, or to otliers also, as may be required. There are also a number of other boilers suitable for heating a small amount of piping, some of which ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. 23 can be set into the brickv.'ork of a wall or of the house, or on the ground level, thus saving the necessity of a stoke-hole. Some of these are very good. For the Cool Orchid house there must be sufficient heat at command to maintain during severe weather a night temperature averaging 45 degrees. For an Intermediate house there should be enough to keep up a night temperature of 55 degrees ; whilst the temperature of the Warm house should not be allowed tc fall below 60 degrees for aaiy length of time. STOKING THE FIRES. As it is warmth from the pipes which creates the artificial temperature in the gi-eenhouse, and as Orchids are plants which sustain themselves chiefly on air, it is quite evident that the better the artificial air is produced and maintained the better it is for the Orchids, as well as for other plants growing with them. Stoking, then, is an important matter, and such work should be done by an intelligent man, and not left to any person imaccustomed to such work, as is too often the case. There is art even in stoking a gi-eenhouse fire, and the person who is in charge of the fires should understand the thermometer, and.be one who can be reUed upon to give careful attention to his duties, letting the conditions of the weather outside guide him. Let us suppose, for instance, that it is a very dull and cold day in January, Avhen the fires require to be well stoked, keeping them clear and bright, as can be done with anthracite coal or coke ; at such a time more heat will be necessary dm-ing the day than at night, in order to give a rise of a few degrees in the temperature. This is an instance when careful stoking and watchfulness of the thermometer crops up. Then suppose a day in March or April, clear and bright, but very cold, necessitating good firing dm-ing the night to keep up a proper temperature, but with the sun shiuing brightly in the daj-time, a much reduced amount of fu-e only would be wanted. The fii-e could then be "damped down" with slack (snuill coal) untd two or three o'clock in the afternoon, when it should be started again, first clearino- out the furnace bars and fu-ehole. In the hot summer days of June to August it is possible that fu-es may be dispensed with, even in the Stove house, but still a cold day or night may come, when a little fire to warm the pipes and raise the temperatirre a few degi-ees woidd be advan- tageous. Again, in November, one day may be very cold, requu-ino- brisk fires to keep the proper temperature, whereas the follo^\-ing day may be damp and close, needing but little Avarmth in the pipes, enough only to assist ventilation and to admit of the ventilators being opened. See, then, that the fiie is managed carefully, always maintaining an even temperature, avoiding the extremes of overheating and drj-ness, or damp and cold. 1!4 OECIIIUS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. VENTILATION. This is another most important matter requiring the attention of some one having a fair amount of intelligence, for Orchids are plants that liv§, thrive and grow robust on the air and the moisture it contains, therefore it is absolutely necessary that they should have as much an- as possible without causing a draught, or sudden rising or falling of the thermometer, as this would be injurious. Every plant house should have ventilators to open and close, both at the bottom and top of the building. Those at the bottom should be in the wall, on a level with the hot-water pipes, and the top ventilatt)rs should be at the highest point of the house ; and the opening and closing of these ventilators requii-e as much care as the stoking. The person in charge must be guided entirely by the condition of the weather, as two successive days at any season of the year may demand a difference in management. One summer day may be warm and the wind calm, and the houses shaded from the fierce rays of the sun, and the ventilators opened more or less on all sides in order to secure perfect ventilation ; the following day it may still be bright, and necessary for the roller blind to be let down, with cold and drying wind blowing rather strongly from, say, the west, in which case the ventilators facing the west must be kept almost closed, perhaps quite so, whilst those on the east side can be opened as required. A well ventilated moist gi-owiug temperature could thus be secured, but not so if the ventilators were opened on the ■windward side, with a direct draught of cold arid aii- on the plants, which would cause them to suffer. A careful system of ventilation should therefore be observed at all periods of the year, but the autumn months admit of a greater amount of air and venti- lation than at any other season, as it is at this period that many Orchids have finished their growth and require to be "harvested,'' as it were, by gradually reducing somewhat the amount of moisture both in the atmosphere and at the roots. To obtain this, the ventilators may be opened a little more freely; still, at the same time, discretion must be used in giving air, bearing in mind that when new gTo^\i;h is finished more air is necessary to consolidate such gi-owth, also to benefit the old growth. Note, however, the outside degree of temperatm-e and the direction of the wind, and act accordingly. During the winter months air should be admitted at all times when the outside conditions of the atmosphere permit. But it often happens that it is necessary to shut the houses up as closely as is possible, especially in exposed situations, in order to keep the thermometer registering the desired degree of heat ; but when it can be done, admit air thi'ough the bottom ventilators in a very small degree, increasing it if the weather becomes more favourable. In very mild A\-eathor the top ventilators may be opened, more or less, on the leeward side only; ORCHIDS : HO"W TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. 25 but only rarf^ly diuing the winter or spring should they be opened on tlie windward side. The utmost attention to ventilation is requii-ed during the spring months, as the plants are then in a somewhat tender and delicate state, having passed through the winter, when, no matter how much care may have been exercised as to heat and ventilation, they . are of necessity deprived of much aii-, having been kept in a close temperatm-e, and are therefore more susceptible of a check at this season than at any other period. It is then we often get bright sunshine accompanied by a cold east Avind, when it is a mistake to open the ventilators, as many do, to keep down the temperature. Instead of doing this let down the roller blind early, so that the temperatui-e may not get too heated, and a little air through the crevices, which invariably exist, will be found sufficient. Ventilation at night requires careful management — and it is always beneficial at night, when the outside condition permits, as well as during the day — ^in our uncertain climate, wath the exception of the Cool Orchid house, which we can ventilate as freely at night as diu'ing the day. In the Intermediate house in warm weather I frequently leave on a good deal of bottom air, and sometimes a little on the leeward side at top ; and in warm weather a little bottom air in the Warm houses, but very rarely leave on top ventilation dui-ing the night, especially in the gi-owing season. No hard and fast rule can be laid down, so much depends upon the cultivator's owar judgment, for not only do the conditions of structui'es vary, but also the climatic conditions in various parts of the coimtry, even when not far apart. SHADING. Shading the house at all times, when necessary, is another subject to which I uiust di-aw attention, as some Orchids do best in the shade, many prefer partial shade, whilst others, in theii' native state, luxuriate in the full blaze of the sun, but, when under glass, there are few plants that will withstand its full power during the summer months without some protection in the way of shading. But as most Orchids require as much light as can be given to them, exclusive of the scorching rays of the sun, it is best to use roller blinds that can be let down in sunny weather and rolled up during cloudy periods or when the heat of the day is past. One of the best systems of shading is that marked D and E on illustration of a model Orchid house. A framework of wood or ii'ou is fixed upon the roof of the house, merely for the I'oller to rest upon. This framework sliould be about eight inches from the glass, so as to admit air and keej) the house cooler than if the shading rested on the sash bars, au important point with Cool Orchids, especially during the summer. The blinds can be easily arranged to roll up and down, 26 ORCHIDS : how to grow them successfully. by me.ans of a cord and a simple apparatus, which any carpenter can fix. These roller blinds should be affixed by the end of February, so as to be ready for use when wanted, for it is frequently found that mthout such shading bright sunshine will do much damage early in the spring, even to .plants which are able to stand the fidl blaze of the sun in summer, and that is brought about by the plant having passed through months of dull weather — perhaps with weeks almost sunless — and, being in consequence in a less hardy state than usual, are unable to bear a sudden bui-st of sunshine of a few hoiu-'s dm-ation. If shading is neglected, the foliage gets burnt and damaged, checking gi-owth and giving an unsightly appearance to the plants ; it is therefore most important that after a long spell of dull weather the plants should be gi-adually accustomed to stronger light and sunshine. The roller blind system of shading is far better than colom-ing the glass with whitewash or other similar preparation, which keeps the house too dark in dull weather for the wellbeing of the plants, whilst, in bright weather, the temperature of the house is likely to get much too hot and dry, bringing on the propagation of various insect pests. The sides and ends of the house may be permanently shaded by coloui'ing matter through the summer, but this should be washed off again in September. Various materials may be used for blinds, but there is one nianufac- tui'ed for the pm-pose, wliich can be piu'chased of oiu- leatling uiu'sery and seedsmen; this is made of various textui-es, the thicker material suitable for shading Cool-house Orchids, and the thinner for plants requiring less shading. The blinds should be taken down in the autumn — some of them may be dispensed -with at the end of September — and, when quite diy, can be stowed away untd the follo^ving spring. Another system of shading, and perliaps for Orchids the best of all, is that shown in Fig. 10. This is made of strips of deal, a quarter of an inch thick and an inch wide, and as long as the depth of the roof of the house — they ai-e made in about six feet lengths. Thus a house 18 feet long would require three lengths for one side, and, as these are so easily rolled up, all that is needed is to place them on the wooden framework above the glass, and rolling or unrolling them by the hand, or by cord and pulley, as necessary. They are made by tying the strips together with twine, leaving space between each sti'ip of from a quarter of an inch. There is now a greatly improved method of making lath blinds by machinery (see Walters & Co.'s advt.) THE ATMOSPHERE. Attention having been given to Stoking, Heating, Ventilaiion. and Shading, as already advised, much has been done to create a suitable atmosphere for the i)lants to live upon. Anuitem-s will do well to see that it is not in any way stuffy or close, as stagnant ail- is as objectionable and injurious to plants as to human beings. Water is an OllCHIDS : now TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. Fig. id lath roller BLIND. ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. 29 indispensable factor in producing an atmosphere suitable for Orchids and other plants which grow in company with them, and a good supply shoixld always be at hand. Hard, or tap water, will do for damping the stages, floors, and side walls, in order to produce evaporation ; but. for watering the jjlants, rain water, reservou-, or river water should be used. The atmospheric conditions of the house, of com-se, varies according to the season of the year, and, whether the plants are in a growing state or at rest, there may be days which are wet and not very cold, when it would not be necessary for the pipes to give out much heat; then, what with the moist air enteiing the house and but Kttle fii-e heat to dry it up, and ^\ith the plants in a dormant state, very little, if any, watering would be requisite on the floor, stages, or the plants. But on days when it may be very cold, necessitating a gi'eat amount of heat in the hot-water pipes, then, of coui-se, sufficient water must be used on the floor for the prevention of a harsh and dry atmosphere, taking care to preserve a proper degTee of genial temperatiu'e. As a general rule, diu'ing the winter months, damping down the floors and stages once a day is quite sufficient, and that work should be done in the morning ; but on some days it is not required at all. In the spring and summer months the atmosphei-e should be more humid than at any other season, as the plants are then making j-oung growths, and it is at this time that a moist atmosphere is so essential to them to induce strong quick gi-owth. A higher temperatiu-e is then also requhed in the "Warm house, and more air being given, greater atten- tion must be paid to the damping of floors, stages, »S:c. During the gi'owing season it is ad%asable to thoroughly damp down between the pots, floors, and walks throe times a day, especially in bright weather — morning, noon, and night. The arrival of autumn brings ■v\'ith it a reminder that the j)lants having made their season's growth less moisture is needed and may be partially, but gradually, withheld. The season of rest ha\'ing arrived, it is advisable to encom-age an atmosphere that is airy, light, drier, and bright, but not even then should the atmosphere be allowed to get too dry, and under such conditions the plants will be sustained in health dui'ing this period of rest without exciting premature growth ; second growths late in tlie season being very uudesii-able, for rarely can such plants as Cattleyas and Dendrobiums finish off perfectly such growths, even in a long and tine summer. Evaporating troughs on the hot-water pipes are sometimes adopted to assist in generating moistui-e. TEMPERATUKE. As with the atmosphere, so with the temperatiu-e of the house, success depends in a groat measure upon the right or ^^Tong dogreo. Even where proper arrangements have been made for ventilation, 30 ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFUXLY. shading, and stoking, there is frequently some difficulty in keeping the house exactly at a given degi-ee of warmth. Slight variations are bound to occur. It is quite natural, for the inside temperature is affected by that prevailing outside, but extremes of heat or cold must be avoided. If the temperature of a house should by accident fall much below the necessary degree, do not force the fire at a rapid rate in order to immediately restore the heat, but when the weather is very cold cover the house with garden mats or other material, letting the fu'e start gently, and the temperature rise slowly to the proper degree. On the other hand, should the temperature, through neglect of ventilation or sojne other cause, rise to a height out of proportion to what is requisite, as it often will, most rapidly when shading and ventilation in hot weather is not properly seen to, then do not open the doors and ventilators widely, but at once run down the roller blinds and open the ventilators gi-adually, in order that the temperature may be brought down to the degree of heat required. Good management and care ^\^ll however prevent such accidents, and a wise grower will not allow valuable plants to run the risk of injirry from such a cause. It is no uncommon occun-ence to see two healthy specimens of an Orchid, standing side by side, one wet at the roots, the other perfectly dry. The sudden and rapid fall in temperature would most likely injure the plant -with wet surroundings, whilst that M-ith its roots quite dry would sulFer more from extreme heat, and yet the conditions of these plants at the time of injury may have been overlooked and some other reason assigned as the cause. Temperature and atmosphere must therefore go hand in hand, and with the judicious application of fire, or sun heat, with air and moisture, a suitable temperature for all seasons can easily be obtained. Just a word or two as to a general rule. Avoid an internal muggy atmosphere in close gloomy weather, and a fiery diy temperature in cold weather, or excessive heat or cold at all times. I again refer to the subject of ventilation. No doubt, if properly used, air is a most valuable agent ; it is worth while to make it a study, for successful culture is due upon the systematic admittance of pure air. I remember hearing that well-known Orchid enthusiast, the late Mr. Dominy, relate how well his Cattleyas grew at Exeter in a house so glazed as to enable him to pass the handle of a budding knife between the lap of each pane of glass. This would generally be too much for the plants to stand in snowy and wintry weather, but then Exeter is comparatively warm to some parts of England. Although the above sj'stem may not be good to adopt everywhere, yet it clearly sets forth that which is needful ; the ways and means of procuring the same must necessarily be left very much to the judgment of the cultivator. The following tables are intended as a guide to amateurs in securing the necessary temperature for Cool Orcliids, Intermediate .£ 9iAn .uio)«)*s»vki..ni Plate % AUTUMX AXD WIXTER FLO) (SOMB or THE riiOWKBS AKK U-- ORCHIDS. OEcniDS : HOW to grow them successfully. 31 Orchids, or Warm Orchids, the degiees given being an average desideratum, and a little variation cither way \W11 do no harm. In fact, it is scarcely possible to maintain regularly the higher figures, and, although the temperature given should be aimed at, the theiTuometer wdll, doubtless, often indicate in cold wintry weather five or more degrees below, but this will do no hann, provided it does not remain so for a long time. COOL HOUSE. Winter Day with SUD. Day without Sua. Night. Morning. 60 60 to 65 f As low as (^ i possible. ( 60 to 65 50 to 55 58 to 60 60 to 65 58 to 60 50 55 55 to 60 55 45 to 50 50 to 55 55 to 58 50 to 55 Suriner Summer Autumn INTERMEDIATE HOUSE. Winter Dav with Sun. ^»y^J^^°"' Night. Morning. 65 to 70 70 to 75 75 to 80 70 to 75 60 65 to 70 70 to 75 65 to 70 58 to 60 60 to 65 65 to 68 60 to 65 55 to 58 j 58 to 60 60 to 65 58 to 60 Spring Summer Autumn WARM HOUSE. Winter Spring Day with Sun. Daywithoutj ^,^^^ Morning. 70 to 75 80 to 85 85 to 90 75 to 85 65 to 70 70 to 75 75 to 80 70 to 75 60 to 65 65 to 70 75 65 to 70 60 65 70 to 75 65 Summer Autumn POTTING AND BASKETING. It is not only essential tliat this work should be carefully done but that it should be performed at the right season. The comi)ost in which to grow most Orchids is the very best fibrous Orchid peat and sphagnum moss in about equal projjortions, adding a sj.)rinkling of broken charcoal ; the peat should be broken into pieces about the size 32 OKCHIDS : now to grow them SrCCESSFULLY. of a heu's egg by the fingers, aud if the moss is long it should be chojaped once or twice. This forms the best compost known for the majority of Orchids, although some species require more peat than sphagnum, and in some cases a little sweet fibrous loam may be added to advantage. Having prepared and mixed the compost, the plant, if an established one, shordd be tm-ned out of the pot and all the crocks and old material cleaned away fi'oni the roots, bearing in mind that it is a very bad practice to insert the old ball of roots into a new pot, as is customary with other plants, such as ferns, &c. The removal of the old compost and crocks is best accomplished by means of a pointed stick ; all dead roots, pseudobulbs, or old stems useless to the plant, having been carefully cut away, a clean pot or basket shoiild be close at hand, and of the right size, to receive the plant. In repotting Orchids it is not always necessary to give them a larger pot, as one of the same size as that in which it has been grown often suits it better. It is a great mistake to overpot Oi'chids. A good idea of the size required can be gained by selecting one large enough for the plant when two more growths are added to the leading pseudobulbs before reaching the side of the pot. The roots of Orchids should not be unduly distui'bed, provided the plants have been recently potted and in good material, as many may remain two, or even three years, without distui-bance,. needing only top di-essings and the renewal of supporting sticks. When, however, repotting is necessary, and that is when the compost becomes too much decayed and in a sour condition, or the leading pseudobulbs ai-e growing over the rim of the pot, or from any other cause, then the repotting should be done carefully and well. POTTING CATTLEYAS. Supposing, for instance, we are about to repot Cattleyas. In the first place, take the plant out of the old pot as carefully as possible, clearing away all worn out soil, &c., as already dii-ected; avoid, if possible, breaking any roots, and have a clean pot ready, about half full of clean broken crocks and small lumps of charcoal, to form eflPective drainage, so that water can pass tlu'ough most freely and escape through the hole at the bottom of the pot. A thin layer of sphagnum should be laid over the crocks and charcoal, then place the i)lant in position, holding it there with one hand and ^vith the other distributing the roots in the pot, afterwards tilling in -with, the compost, aud whilst still holding the plant fii-mly with one hand, the peat, sphagnum, &c., should be carefully packed in, neither too fii-mly or too loosely, but well into the centre between the roots so that no hollow spaces are left. A little practice and cai-eful use of the fingers will soon enable beginners to pot theii- plants properly. The plant will then be self-supporting, with the exception perhaps of a few neat sticks ORCHIDS : HOW TO OROW THEM STTCOESSFULLY. •'5:5 Fig. II. CATTLEYA, newly pottec ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. 35 thrust into the compost gently, so as not to injure any roots but yet support the jjlant securely, and prevent injury to the pseudobulbs and young growth. As soon as the plant is made secure by the support of sticks, then carefully finish off the potting, by filling up any holes or loose places, lea\ang an even regular surface, with the centre of the plant a little raised and tapering off to the rim of the pot, beaiing in mind that the compost should rise well up to the base of the pseudo- bulbs, especially the leading ones. Newly forming roots will then push out direct into the fresh compost, and having gi-own safely into the moss they are out of the way of their enemies, the slugs and other pests, which are very partial to the young and tender points. In repotting, the opportunity should be embraced of forming a neat and well shaped plant; and if ill shaped, it should be cut in two and re-an-anged into a better form, with the growths pointing towards the centre. Fig. 11 represents a newly potted plant of Cattleya, sho\ving position of drainage and compost. ODONTOGLOSSUMS AND ONCIDIUMS. The mode of potting these is very similar to that already described for Cattleyas, as to drainage, compost, and other items, although Odontoglossums and Oncidiums are not quite so sensitive as to the fibrous nature of peat ; therefore the best, and that which is of the most fibrous textui-e, should be selected for the Cattleyas. Neither should over large pots be used for Odontoglossums, as they become re-established much quicker and are more readily managed in com- paratively small pots. I do not, of com-se, recommend cramming the plants in so that they are in a cramped state to commence with and have not sufficient room to grow. What I mean is, that the old pseudobulbs should be placed close together, filling in between them with compost to the base, allowing a margin between the leading pseudobulbs and the rim of the pot sufl&cient for the development of the next two years' growth ; that is, two new bulbs before the side is reached. These should also be made firm in their pots by the use of small sticks. CYPKIPEDIUMS. These plants very soon recover from any distmbance of the roots, and are very free growing. They requii-e a compost with a little more body in it, and of a richer natm-e than that previously recommended for Odontoglossums ; it should consist of equal parts lumpy peat, not of such a fibrous nature as for Cattleyas, adding sphagnum and a fourth part of fibrous loam broken into small pieces. This, with a liberal addition of coarse silver or river sand, should be well mixed together. The pots should be crocked, as recommended for Cattleyas, 36 ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM 3ITCCESSFTILLY. with a thin layer of sphagnum over the drainage. All the old soil, &c., must be removed from the roots, the jilants held in position and filled in between the roots, as before advised for Cattleyas, taking cai-e not to injure the roots, or packing too hard or too loosely ; it is ad\d.sal^le to have the plant just above the rim of the pot. CjT^jripedituns gi'ow rather luxuriantly, and should therefore have reasonably large pots in proportion to the size of the plants and the quantity of roots. DBNDROBIUMS. These must be potted in the very best fibrous peat and sphagnum, in equal proportions, preparing both as recommended for Cattleyas, and the pots should be thoroughly drained in the same way. As a rule, Dendi-obiums do far better in small pots than large ones ; in fact, some kinds are most sensitive in this respect, a large mass of material aljout the roots being most distastefid to them. Many of the Dendrobiums really thrive better when planted in teakwood baskets or earthen pans and suspended from the roof ; still there are some kinds which it is necessary to grow in pots, bccaiise of the great length of their pseudobidbs. Fig. 12 illustrates the method of growing them in baskets or pans. There are, however, exceptions, as in D. Falconcri, one of the most beautiful of all, and a comparatively fragile grower. This variety is most successfully cidtivated on a teakwood raft, or, what is still better, a portion of the stem of a tree fern. D. aggregatum majus must also be gro\vn on a block. TIME OF EEPOTTING. The proper time for caiTjdug out this work can scarcely be disregarded, and it shovdd be made a practice to do all that is requii'cd in this respect immediately after their season of flowering, for it is then that Orchids commence growing and pushing new roots, which readily take hold of the new soil. There are, however, a few exceptions to this rule, and these are the autumn-flowering species, such as some of the Oncidiums, Vandas, Odontoglossums, Pleiones, and Thunias, which should not be disturbed until repotted in the spring. Cattleya Warscewiczii {sipi. gigas), aurca, and Warneri are also late summer and autumn- flowering kinds, but these I prefer repotting directly after they have flowered, although they may be left until the early spring, when this operation can be performed with success. Cattleya labiata {si/n. Warocqucana), Bowringiana, and Liclia pumUa also flower late in the autumn, and, like all other late-flowering sorts, are best left over until S])ring, as during the dark days of winter but little root action tjikes place, and it is far better to leave the repotting until young roots arc ready to start into the new compost. It is best to attend to the Cool- house Odontoglossums as they go out of flower and directly the new growth is seen pushing from the base of the last made pseudobulbs. ORCHIDS : now to grow them successfully. V'fl«*!>»«WW*«(ib<^!WR '*«p-. ORCniBS : HOW to GKOW them SrcCESSFrLLY. 39 POTS AND BASKETS versus BLOCKS. Do not be persuaded to attempt gro^\'ijig Orckids on blocks of wood, thinking that by so doing their natural babit will be more closely imitated, for it invariably ends in failure, and tbere are but few exceptions to this rule. They cannot in our artificially heated glass houses be grown successfully for any length of time on blocks of wood or lumps of stone, as they are kno^vn to do in their native habitats, where they floiuish in full vigoiu- and beauty. This may appear to be a sti'ange dogma to the inexperienced in growing Orchids, but it is nevertheless a fact. I grant that a newly imported healthy plant of Cattleya or Dendrobium, if wired to a block of Avood or cork, will grow well for a year, or perhaps two, but after that the plant is found to d^dndle away and become less by degrees. The reason why Orchids fail with us, when trying to grow them in the manner in which thev luxuriate in their native countries, is obvious, when we take into consideration how utterly impossible it is for us, even in the largest and most perfectly regulated establishments, to create in an enclosed sjiace of a few square yards, which has to be heated artificially for more or less of nine months of the year, that admii-able, fi-esh, buoyant, and uniform atmosphere which exists amongst their native mountains and in their forests and dells. We may sometimes, duiing favourable weather and proper management, partly succeed in doing this, but perhaps in the next hour, with lax attention and a totally different temperature, there will be a greatly altered state of affairs. This varj-ing and ever changing artificial atmosphere — sometimes laden \\'ith moisture, at others di'y and harsh, ■with the temperature changing quickly from hot to cold — undoubtedly occui's in a larger or smaller degree in every establishment, and this is the chief reason why an Orchid does not gi-ow satisfactorily if all its roots are exposed to these sudden and recui-ring changeable conditions, although it is natural for them to perform their proper functions when exposed in their native habitats. It is, therefore, necessary, when imder culture, that the roots should have protection fi'om these sudden changes of temperature, and this is best done bj' growing them in pots or baskets, in a suitable compost, as they thus escape the ill effects of root exposure and can be kept in a more regular condition of moisture, not saturated one day and extremely dry the next, as is the case when they ai-e fastened to blocks of wood. There is also another reason, which I have no doubt has much to do with this failure on blocks, ■vrhich is, that with us the blocks of wood have no life in them and contain no moistm-e whatever, whilst in theii- native countries many of the Orchids grow on living trees. I think it is a very rare experience with collectors abroad to find them growing and in good health on trees which have been dead any considerable time. 40 ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM STJCCESSl TLLY. There is a beautiful old Orcliid, Cattleya citrrua, which fioiu its peculiar drooping habit of growth cannot Avell be gi-owTi in any way but on blocks. Even if i)lauted in a basket or pan in an upright position, the new gro\\th Asill invariably tui'u downwards and creep over the sides. Some cultivators place these plants in small pans or baskets, "caaking them firm wth peat and sphagnum moss, so us to allow them full fi-eedom of growth over the sides, and I have no doubt they last longer in a good healthy condition tliis way than any other, although it lasts for a considerable time in health on a block when well attended to. It is sometimes interesting to show visitors a plant gi'o^ang on wood, and this Cattleya is the one I recommend to be gi'own for the piu'pose, but the block should be cut in a green state and of the desired length, leaving the bark for the roots to cling to. The wood of the pear tree, apple tree, or of the dogwood (Coraus) is the best ; I remember once placing some plants of Oucidiuin Papilio (the Butterfly Orchid) on a block of dogwood, cut from a growing tree, sufficiently long for one end to be fixed firmly in a flower pot in an upright position, with crocks and sphagnum moss about it. The plants were placed close together on the top i)art of the block, completely away fi'om the sphagnum, and the moisture from the latter kept the block quite green for a considerable time ; diu'ing the first year it made a new layer of bark, and I never saw plants of Oncidium Papilio gi'ow better under any conditions, the new bvdbs and leaves were so strong, and the roots climbed do^\Ti the block in great profusion. This pliint, however, is best grown in small pans, b(nng more secure and giving much less trouble. TEEATMENT OF IMPORTED ORCHIDS. Imported plants require most careful treatment on their aiTival from abroad, as a large number are severely injiu-ed at the com- mencement, and in many instances killed outright. The experienced Orchid cultivator, however, knows v.'hat is roquii-od to get them into a strong healthy state of growth, but in the hands of tlie inexperienced they dwindle and perish for want of proper treatment. It is sometimes the case that the plants have stood the jom-ney well, and when unpacked look quite green and fresh, having scarcely lost a leaf. But if these were unpacked and suddenly exposed to strong light and moisture, many, if not all, of the green leaves would probably turn yellow or fall off with but very little warning, and of course greatly weaken the plants. Those who import Oichids for almost immediate sale by auction are naturally anxious that the plants sliould look well and fresh in the salerooms, and at as early a period as possible, and to obtain this result the plants are placed in a moist, darkened house, and frequently no attemi>t is made to reallj' harden theiu off. It is necessary, therefore, for amateui-s to be on their guard OKCHIDS : HOW TO GROW TIIElt SITCCESSFULLY. 41 and very careful with newly imported plants, getting them gradually accustomed to heat, light, and moisture, for if this is done too rapidly, and too liberally,, the foliage may drop off considerably, and perhaps the pseudobulbs decay. When the plants are received, all useless decapng foliage, roots, &c., should be removed carefully; and this done, the plants should be placed in a shady part of the Cool house, on the stage, and kept free from water and in an upright position, the moistiu-e of the house being sufficient for one or two days. The foliage and pseudobulbs will soon commence swelling and become plump, and occasional waterings may then be given to the roots. As soon as the new gi-owth or roots appear, the imported plants may be potted or placed in baskets or pans and then treated as established plants, v.-atering them carefully as required. Some gi'owers suspend the newly im])orted plants by the roots with the growth downwards, in the shade of the house, in order that no water shall lodge about them, receiving only the moist atmosphere of the house ; but I am not in favour' of this plan, and prefer placing them in an upright position from the first, as I have ah-eady explained. Experience has showTi me that when svispended the imported plants do not so readily resume then- normal functions of gi'OT.-th, the delay being much less when placed in an upright position. Should they, however, belong to the Cattleya or Warm-house section, they maj' be removed there after being a few days in a more shaded house. When potting or placing them in baskets advantage should be taken of this oppor- tunity to form well shaped, compact plants, as frequently the imported plants, as taken fi-om the branches of trees or when gi-owing, are spreading and ill formed. In potting these it is sometimes necessary to part the mass and again replace the parts together, in order that the leading growth may take its projaer position, and this can be done without the slightest injmy at this stage, and a well shaped plant ^\^ll be secured. In potting the plants it is a great mistake to leave a mass of the old roots on tliem, as thc.s(\ wlien confined in the pots, soon decay and become an inert mass of decomposed soddened matter, wliich is most objectionable and injui-ious to the new roots that will be formed. These old dead roots should be severely dealt with, and all taken clean away to the pseudobulb, as also all dead leaves or bulbs. With Odontoglossums and Dendi-obiums a few of their old roots, cut back to two or three inchfis long, may be left on the plant, being useful in helping to k(>e]) the ])lants in position when potting them. PliOPAGATIOX. Propagation of Orchiils, or speaking more correctly of some kinds of Orchids, is slow indeed, and often unnocessurj', as healthy and vigorous plants that will flower the first year may be boiight at a very low 42 ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. price ; yet it is sometimes desii'able to increase the stock of a very rare and expensive sort, or even an exceptionally good variety of a common species, in fact any other Mnd one may value and T\dsh. to propagate. Such free gi'owing kinds as the Calanthes, Pleiones, Cypripediums, Thunias, ' Masdevallias, Oncidiums, and Odontoglossums, when in a vigorous condition, readily increase in the number of leading gro's\"ths ■without artificial aid, and if more stock is required it is easily obtained by dividing the plants. Cattleyas, Lselias. and Dendi-obiums may also be increased by division, and this can be hastened somewhat by the use of a knifo. Fig. 1.3 shows one method whereby a Cattleya or a Lselia can be made to break back through severing the rhizome, as showTi in the illustration, but the resulting growths are generally weak, and several years elapse before they are strong enough to bloom. Cattleyas and Lselias sometimes have double breaks, forming two new pseudobulbs from an old one, but it frequently happens that, in the following year, one only of these new growiihs "will take the lead and the other remain dormant, and if left undisturbed wUl often remain in this state for several years. ^\'hen it is seen that both the new pseudo- bulbs are not going to start into growth at the same time, the weaker of the two should be severed from the parent plant close to the jjseudo- bidb, and it will then be obliged to start into growth on its own account. The injision should be made with a sharp knife, care being taken not to cut the roots or inj ure any other part of the plant. The severed portion will then make a new pseudobulb the same year, provided the operation was performed in the sijring, and in the following spring they will gi'ow faster and surer if taken away from the parent plant and potted into small pots or baskets. The propagation of the Dendrobium is easy, but is not practised so much as would be the case if many of the most beautiful varieties were not imported in such large quantities, strong plants being obtainable at such low prices as to render propagation unnecessary, unless in the case of an extraordinary good variety or a garden hybrid. When it is desired that young stock should be raised of Dendrobiums, the old pseudobulbs, which it is found may be cut away -ft-ithout injury to the plants, should be cut in thi'ee or four pieces and laid upon sphagnum moss, placed on a shelf or some other suitable place and kept moist, and in due time the young growths will appear, and these will form healthy young bulbs. INSECT LIFE. CLEAXLIXESS, AXD REMEDIES. Cleanliness is a great point in the cultivation of Orchids, as well as with other plants, such as the removal of all rubbisli from under the stages or elsewhere. Whitewashing the walls once a year, scrubbing the stages and pots occasionally, cleaning and sponging the leaves of the plants, all helping to keep dovni insect life, which, if unchecked. OROHIPS : HOW TO CROW TIIEM STICCE5SFUI,l,y. 43 Fig. 13. L/ELIA, showing method cf propagation ORCHIDS : now to grow them successfully. 45 soon becomes very troublesome. There are numerous kinds of insects which are enemies to the plants, and for the well being of the latter it is essential that all these pests should be kept in check. A camel's hair brush and a piece of sponge used by careful hands, and with clear soft water, are the best and most effective tools with which to clean away insect life from the plants. Insecticides, whether home made or other- wise, are always more or less dangerous, and often lead to the rotting away of the young growths of some of the more tender plants, such as Chysis, Stanhopeas, Dondrobiums and Phaius. Tobacco Water can be made by well soaking a half pound of common t\vist tobacco in hot water, adding a half pound of soft soap, which is sufficient for four- gallons of water, and makes a capital solution, which is both safe to use and effective, and into which the plant may be dipped for a few seconds when affected by thiip or aphis, talring care that the water is of the same temperatui'e as the house. If the solution is very strong it will be safest to dip the plant into clean water after the lapse of a few minutes, but if of the proper strength the solution may be allowed to dry on it. The danger to be avoided is the lodgment of any portion in the young and tender gi'owths, which easily rot from this cause, therefore it is best to be cautious and well diy the liquid out of the hearts of the young gi-owth with a camel's hair brush. There are many chemical compounds made and freely advertised for the destruction of insect enemies to plant life, all of which may be good in their way, if used carefully according to the directions accompanying each, and are not injurious to plants. Fumigation is of gi-eat assistance in the prevention of insect life, and it can be applied without injm-y to either foliage or flowers, when used in the form of '•Campbell's Fumigating Insecticide" or "Richardson's XL All Fumigating Insecticide." It is safest to fumigate under rather than over the directions issued, especially for Odoutoglossums. When it is desu'able to fumigate choose a calm evening for the operation — the atmosj)here should not be over dry nor should the foliage be at aU wet. Syringixg. — The indiscriminate use of the sji-inge as a check to the spr(!ad of insects is not a good practice, eitlier with clear water or water mixed with any insecticide, being ineffective and frequently the reverse of satisfactory. Scale, which clings so tenaciously to the leaves of Saccolabiums, Aerides, and Coelogyne cristata in particular, is a great pest, and where it exists in large numbers, it is a good plan to make up a "lather" of yellow soap, and paint the leaves ■with it. allowing it to remain five minutes, afterwards washing it off with a sponge and clear water, when, should the scale still cling to the leaves, a little rubbing will remove it. Tliere is a species of scale which infests Cattleyas and 46 ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. Leelias, especially if the plants are not strong and healthy, which can be cleaned away periodically in the same manner, taking care, however, that the "lather" or insecticide does not get down to the roots, and this is easily prevented by holding a piece of sponge round the base of the pseudobulb until the operation is completed. Do not attempt to get them off with a sharp pointed stick, as this is both a dangerous and tedious method. "Mm-ray's Electric Insecticide" is the best thing I have tried for ridding the Cattleyas of this pest ; it shoidd be used in the proportion of one part insecticide to foiu- of I'aiu water. Apply it over the insect by means of a small brush of stiffer fibre than camel's hair, thoroughly soaking the scale, and letting it remain until the insect is completely killed^it need not be washed off. The person who introduced this electric insecticide recommends the solution for sp-inging over the plants for the destruction of red spider, aphis, &c., but I think it best for amateurs to use rather less than is mentioned in the directions, as the young tender foliage of Orchids, as well as other plants, is very easily injured and growth consequently retarded. Tliis applies equally to other insecticides. Tobacco Powder is a valuable agent for the prevention of thrip and aphis, and should always be at hand. The disagi-eeable odours arising from fumigating or the use of insecticides are always more or less objectionable, and this annoyance may be avoided by using tobacco powder, which can be pm-chased from any seedsman, in Is. or larger tins, and if a little of this is sprinkled into the yoimg gi'owths of the plant no thiips will go near them, whilst those that are thei-e will be sijeedily destroyed. Cockroaches are terrible night depredators, and tlie best remedy I know for their destruction is the well known "Chase's Beetle Poison," which should be used at regular intervals in places where they are most likely to congregate or on any plants on which they have been feeding, taking special precautions to prevent their ravages on the young flower spikes and the tender tips of the roots. WOODLICE also eat the roots, and shoiUd be trapped and killed. Various traps are employed for catching these pests, but the best of all, I find, is a potato cut in halves, with a portion of each half scooped out of the centre and then placed with the outside of the potato upwards, examining it every morning. Slugs. — These are also a great nuisance in the Orchid house, and have a special liking for the young and tender flower spikes. Lettuce leaves can be kept about the plants, and a little fresh bran in small saucers has a great attraction for them, and they should also be diligently searched for at night, using a lamp for their detection. Cattleva Fly [Tsosoma 07rhideii7-u7n). — This is a much dreaded insect, and its larvae is deposited in the centre of the young growth. Its existence there may be detected when the young break or growth is ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. 47 about an inch liigli, as it becomes abnormally thick at the base and tapers somewhat more to a point than is usual, the gi'owth making but little progress. The only method of exterminating this pest is to cut out the infested gi-owth, in the centre of which the young grub will be found in a more or less advanced stage. If destroyed in this way an effectual stop to theii' breeding is attained and much harm to the plants prevented ; but, should an infested gi'owth be overlooked and the insect come to maturity, a great amount of damage may be done for another year. Luckily this insect is not very general, but it is always best to be on the alert Avhen buying plants. The Dexdrobium Beetle [Xyhhorus pei-forans) is of sraall size, but quite large enough to be capable of a gi'eat amoimt of mischief if not promptly checked, and should it get a foothold on the bulbs, as it often does in the Dondrobiums from the Toitcs Straits, such as D. Phalfenopsis, D. P. Schroderianum, D.bigibbum, alsoD.Dalhousieanum and D. formosum, it apparently has a liking for, but it does not confine itself to these species. The presence of tlie insect is indicated by the small cleanly bored holes in the pseudobulb, both now and old, resembling the small holes found in old wonn-eaten furniture ; should these holes escape notice the leaves soon assume a yellowish appearance and the pseudobulbs begin shrivelling about an inch below the holes. If the pseudobulb is cut open a nest in a small cavity will be found containing one or more of the beetles, and the surrounding tissues will be in a state of decay It is an open question whether the holes are first pierced by the adult beetle — an insect nearly the size of and j-esembling an ant — and the larvae deposited therein, or whether they are hatched in the pseudobulb and afterwards eat their way out of it, as is the case with the Cattleya fly. This enemy may soon be stamped out if projaer and timely precautions are taken. I ad^-ise an examination of the plants occasionally, and, if any traces of the beetle are found, to cut away that portion of tlie pseudobulb and burn it ; in fact, should the plant be found to be badly infested, burn it altogether, and give the remaining plants a dressing of some insecticide. Red Spider. — This insect pest is most troublesome, and on Dendi'o- biums more than any other Orchids ; when plants are attacked by them and are unnoticed, serious residts may follow, as they greatly reduce the vitality of the plants. They usually attack the imder surface of the yoimg tender foliage, and their presence can be detected by the leaves showing a whitish appearance on the upper as well as the under surface, which becomes more and more plainly visible as the insects increase, which they do veiy rapidly, causing the leaves to curl and dry up and probably fall off, almost completely airesting the fiu-ther progress of any gi-owth in course of formation, and greatly interfering with or destroying any prospects of flowering the next season. On the first appearance of this insect, immediate steps should be taken for its 48 ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. destruction, and a constant sui'veillance maintained of all Dendrobiums and other plants gro^^dng in the same house in order to stop fui'ther ravages. Sponge the leaves occasionally with clean water, say every two or three days until they disappear, but in desperate cases use insecticides, mixed as previously advised, and sponge about once a week. Eed spider will come, as other nuisances do, notwithstanding the most careful attention, and the conditions under which they are most likely to increase and thrive is that where there is a lack of moisture and the atmosphere is diy and liot from excessive fire heat. ORCHIDS FROM SEED. Raising Seedling Orchids is most interesting work, but the raiser must be prepared to exercise a great deal of patience, as with many of the species some years will elapse after the tiny seeds have germinated before the flowering stage is reached, whereas, AWth others, the period will be shorter ; C}^rii:)ediums, Masdc^vallias, and Calanthes, for instance, will, under good treatment, bloom in three or four years. Dendi'obiums requu-e a longer time, whilst Cattleyas and Laelias and some others do not bloom perhaps under seven to twelve years, but despite this slow progi'ess, keen interest is felt by the raiser and cultivator of the plants, from their earliest stage until they flower. Fertilisation is the first step towards obtaining seed, and this is done by what is termed "crossing," but not in a haphazard way. An intelligent hybridist exercises an amount of thought as to ultimate results and the means of producing them, and of course takes his chance of obtaining hybrids of great merit or otherwise. It is of no manner of use crossing flowers l)elonging to two difterent genera, such, for instance, as an Odontoglossum with a Cattleya, or a Dendrobium with an Oncidium, as the results would be nil. Genera having a close resemblance in form and structure may, however, be crossed -with more propriety; Cattleyas, Laelias, Sophi-onitis and Epidendi-ums having a close resemblance in structure fertilise more readily. Oncidiums and Odontogiossums also cross freely, and form x^ods of seeds, but I believe very few hybridists have been successful in raising plants from these crosses. Even Oncidiums and Odontogiossums, if kept to their own genera, are most difficult to raise from seed, very few instances being as yet reported. Cj-^prijiediums are the most easy to raise, and have been crossed and recrossed to such an extent that the family is now a very extensive one ; and of late years many beautiful hybrids have been produced also of Deiub-obiums and Cattleyas, and no doubt many more surprises are in store, and other treasures will year by year be seen. It is easy to imagine tlie anxiety and pleasure of the hybridist when he finds his seedling plants advancing to the flowering state and showing their first bloom buds, and still further their development into full bloom. In order to preserve them to a long life the plants should ORCHIDS : HOW TO GKOW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. 49 be kept hardy, in exactly the same temperature as the parent plants, and not allowed to suffer from drought. Seedling Cypripediums may be pricked off at any time when ready, as they make rapid progress compared with other Seedling Orchids, but I do not advise the disturbance of small Seedling Dendrobiums, Calanthes, and Thunias after the middle of Aiigast, or Cattleyas later than the middle of September ; if not done by then let them remain on the surface of the pot in wliich they were sown until the followang spring, and then, when growth has commenced, pi'ick off into very small thimble pots. FERTILISATION OF FLOWERS FOR SEED. When it has been decided which flowers are to be crossed — the blending and harmony of colours being the leading points in view — the selected seed-bearing parent should not on any consideration be a wealdy plant. The pollen may then be taken from the flower, suppos- ing, for instance, it to be Cattleya Dowiana aui'ea, and placed upon the stigma of. say, Cattleya Warscewiczii (such a cross in their native habitats being supposed to have produced the rare natiu-al hj'brids C. Hardj-ana and its variety C. Massiana). In this case of C. Warscewiczii and C. Dowiana am-ea, the former becomes the female or seed-bearing parent, and the latter the male or pollen-giving parent, but the pollen-bearing anthers of the female parent must fii'st be removed. "Wlien fei-tilisation has taken place the flowers will soon begin drooping and a seed pod form, wliich will require from nine to twelve months to mature and ripen, then the pod Asdll split and begin to open, and the seeds should be sown at once, for if allowed to remain longer the pod opens mder and the seeds are wasted. To prevent the possibility of the fii-st seeds — and these are considered by some Orchidists to be the only fertile ones — falling, the plant on which it is intended to sow the seed may be placed directly under the ripe pod, so that the seed, in case of shedding, may faU upon the surface of the compost. The Orchid, in the pot of which the seed is to be sown, should have been potted some months previously -svith the compost in a sweet and sound condition, not containing too much growing or living sjihagnum, or the little seedlings may be destroyed. On this sm-face, after well watering it, the seed should be shaken, aftervvai-ds gently spraying with a fine sjTinge or watering can, so as to settle the seeds amongst the compost, the plant afterwards being watered when requiring it, but very gently at first, so that the seeds may not be washed too deeply into the pot, or away altogether. I have had the best results from seeds sown in shallow pans or baskets in which Orchids were growing and suspended from the roof. If the seed is fertile and in a state for germinating quickly, it wiU show signs of doing so in from three to six months, when the}' assume the appearance of small green globules about the size of a pin's head, from 50 ORCHIDS : now to grow them successfully. the centre of wtich a tiny leaf vnil soon form, and in this early stage these may be transplanted; indeed, it is best to transplant them as early as possible, for frequently the sphagnum surface on which they are growing becomes stale and dry, and woodlice, slugs, or ants cause the seedHngs to disappear ; but if taken away when they are large enough to be moved with a sharp pointed stick, on to some new, sweet compost, a fresh impetus is given to the little j)lant, and they then get a firm hold of the material in which they are for a whUe to find a home, and which is so necessary for their wellbeing. When the seed does not show signs of growth in from three to six months it rarely vegetates at all. I prefer pricking oflP the little seedlings into what is kno"wn as thimble pots (one inch in diameter). These small pots should be half filled with small bits of charcoal or crocks, then filhng level to the rim with chopped sphagnum moss and best fibrous peat, wdth the dust shaken from it, adding a little silver sand, mixing it well together and pressing it moderately firm into the pots. I then press down the com- post with a pointed stick, making a farrow all round close to the rim of the pot, just sufficiently deep to admit and steady half-a-dozen of the libtle seedlings, using the pointed stick in doing this, and I moisten the the tip of the stick, generally with my tongue, as the tiny plants then adhere to the point and can easily be deposited where requii-ed. Previous to filling the pots they should be soaked in water, especially if new, or they quickly absorb the moisture in the small amount of compost so necessary for the young seedlings. The compost should also be thoroughly damped pre\-ious to being used for the seedlings, after which the watering of them is a delicate operation, and must be done wdth the geatest care, until the little plants are steadied by their own roots. The pots containing the little seedlings are best nursed in the small wood baskets used for Orchids, accommodating from eight to a dozen pots in each, and suspending them close under the roof, where they are shaded from the direct rays of the sun. The baskets in T\hich the pots are to stand should have more cross bars fixed in the bottom, to prevent then- falling through — the air will then pass up between them and lessen the chance of too much moisture collecting around them, which is to be avoided. These very small pots, however, dry very quickly, and should be examined at least once every day and water given to the dry ones. I usually apply the water by dipping the hand into the water and let it drip gently from the iingors on to the plants, but it can be done in various other ways, so that it is done gently and N\^thout distm-biug the little plants. Especial care should be taken with the seedlings dming then- resting season, as such small plants ^vill not stand the same amount of di-jdng and resting as established plants which have large pscudobulbs and have a much larger mass of material about their roots to retain the moistui-e, the OECHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEiT SUCCESSFULLY. 51 probability of the seedling plants becoming seriously dry must T>e guarded against. Some cultivators recommend that they should be kept wet and in a gi'owing state, both winter and summer, but I object to this treatment on the gi-ound that although the plants may possibly be brought into bloom a little earlier, those that have always been stewed in heat aie seldom strong, nor have they the robust constitution necessary to maintain a lengthened existence ; it is, therefore, wisest to grow on the seedlings in a similar temperature to that in which the old plants have been gi-own. DISEASES OF ORCHIDS. Orchids, like all other plants, are subject to disease, but this appears most frequently where a ^vl•ong coiu-se of ti'eatment has been followed. Cattleyas and Lselias are sometimes attacked by a fungoid gi'owth which causes the pseudobulbs and leaves to be marked their whole length with black marks and spots, and if not stopped in time it quickly destroys the plant by causing the pores to rot and become putrid. When these marks are observed the darkened point should be cut through with a sharjj knife up the entire length of the mark, and a little dry slaked lime rubbed into the cut — this will sometimes prevent the disease froiu spreading any fui-ther. The disease, however, rarely occurs amongst healthy plants, and it may generally be attributed to a badly ventilated atmosphere, or to the compost about the roots being in a highly decomposed state. The genus Phalsenopsis are subject to a disease known as "Spot," which, if not cut out and powdered with lime or charcoal dust, will quickly spread. This " Spot" is caused by bad ventilation, and when the gi'owth is too "sappy," or from an excess of moisture during the dull days of winter. The foliage of MUtonia vexHlaria is also subject to spotting, but only when it is grown in too cold a temperatm-e, kept too wet, or when insufficient air is given during winter. The same may be said of Vanda cferulea, which is a plant that must be growTi in a light, airy, and moderately warm atmosphere duiing the winter, or the leaves will become badly spotted. In fact all Orchids have some ailments, more or less severe if their treatment is wrong, and the safest plan is to well ascertain then- requirements and see that these are obtained as nearly as possible. WATERING AXD RESTING ORCHIDS. This must be regulated by their season of growth. For instance, a Dendi-obium just starting into growth in early spring will require only very little water, just enough to prevent the compost from becoming dust diy, or in other words, enough to support the old bulbs with noiu-ishment. When the gi'Owth gets a few inches high it will begin to make roots on its own account, and it is then that water may be gi-adually increased. Encourage this gi'owth, after thi-ee or four 52 ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. leaves have appeared, as mucli as possible until the bulb is foruiod, never allowinj^ the plant to get thorougkly dry. I do not mean by this that it should at any period be kept constantly saturated. After the bulb is quite matured, water must again bo gradually withheld, and it will then become so hardened that during the winter months water can probably be withheld for a long period, without shrivelling from the dryness of the atmosphere or the amount of fire heat required. Tliis applies also to such jilants Coelogynes, Cattleyas, Laelias, Anguloas, Catasetums, Mormodes, Epideudruuis, Lycastes, Chysis, Trichoj)ilias, and Tliunias. The following, viz. : Oncidiums, Odontoglossums, Vandas, Aerides, Saccolabiums, Phalsenopsis, Miltonias, Masdevallias, Cymbidiums, Angi-secums, Adas, and Cypripediums, will require more water at the roots all thi-ough the winter months, but those wMch are dormant should be kept comparatively dry, only watering when the sm-face of the compost assumes a white appearance and is slightly crisp to the touch. It will be as well for amatom-s to adopt the following rules in watering : — Never give a plant a little water because it is not dry enough to water thoi-oughly. If there should be any doubt as to the plant being sufficiently dry to require watering let it remain until the following day, when, shoidd it be in a suspended pan or basket, let it be taken down and dipped in water, or, if in a pot, give it a good drenching wdth the watering can, bearing in mind that the Orchids in the smaller pots require more frequent wateriugs than those in the larger ones — always watering the compost, not the foliage. These remarks apply in a sense to watering in winter as well as summer, but dining the winter months I do not exactly mean that a plant which is resting should be absolutely saturated by letting it soak in water, as it would be a long time before it was again dry. If it is a plant resting, simply give the sirrface of the compost a good watering with a watering can, and much will run off, but enough will soak in the compost to revive the plant, and that is sufficient. Make it a practice, should any water lodge in the young growths of such species as Cattleyas, Laelias, and Dendrobiums, to dry it out by means of a camel's hair brush. With Orchids of the same character as Odonto- glossums and Oncidiums, this precaution is unnecessary dm-ing the summer months. Eesting is merely a term employed, which denotes that the plant has finished its season's gi'owth, and henceforth laj^ses into a dormant state until the proper season arrives for renewed activity ; plants which are at rest require but little water. DESIRABLE POSITIONS FOR THE PLANTS. Tn (Mir glasshouses we cannot closely imitate the conditions under which the plants gi'ow in their native habitats ; stUl it is decidedly OKCTiiDS : no"w to grow tttem stjccessfttlly. ry.] -^ -— ,*3**'i • • •* -C- ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. 55 advantageous to their wellbeing when we can arrange to reproduce as nearly as possible theii- natural suiTOundings, and this, combined T\dth good attention, are undoubtedly the two most important points to be observed in theii- cultivation ; for if an Orchid is given a place which suits it, and due attention is paid to the plant and its natoxal require- ments, success and credit to the cultivator will be assured. Theory is, however, a great help to the practical man, and much information may be gained from the wi'itings of others, which, if used in conjunction with experience already acqmred, will lead to a better appreciation of his work and bring out many important points for his study and consideration, thus increasing each year his store of useful knowledge, a circumstance not to be despised by any cultivator, however eminent. When Orchids are growing satisfactorily, and look healthy and well, it is a conclusive proof that the conditions under which they are grown, and the position they occupy, are in every way suitable. Sickly plants are always to be found in every collection, and their unhealthiness may be attributed to various causes, the true one invariably being traced to the fact that some simple want has not been attended to or is not understood. Thrip and other insects find it more difficult to make headway and increase when plants are in their proper element. As to position, some plants will thrive the year through without change ; whereas, with Dendrobiums and others frequent changes and re-arrangement are beneficial. Some Orcliids such as Cypripediums, and Cool-house kinds, thrive better in the shade, whilst Cattleyas, LseUas, and Dendrobiums prefer more light. Some do best when suspended, others placed on a side stage, whilst instances have occm-red when a plant failing to grow at one end of the house has thrived and gi-ew luxuriantly when moved to the other end. A casual visitor would probably fail to see any reason for this ; but it would soon become evident to the grower that the plant experienced a decided advantage in one jaosition denied to it in the other. In many cases this is caused by the plants getting a better current of air, or more moisture, more sun, or shade, or any other thing conducive to its well-doing. I find shelves to be extremely useful in this respect, and use plenty of them hanging over the paths, from 12 to 18 inches from the glass, also over the door and at the far end of the house, or in any other i)lace where they do not obstruct the light much from the plants on the stages. These shelves meet the requirements of some Orchids to perfection, especially those which require light and air, or are shy bloomers when grown on the side stages with other plants. They are admirable places to resuscitate weakly plants; while I always prefer them for my very choicest and rare specimens. This subject will bo treated on more fully when referring to Cool, Intermediate, and Wai-m houses. 56 ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM StJCCESSFtJLLY. ORCHIDS IN BLOOM. When Orchids are in flower they should not be allowed to become very dry at the root, or the flowers will draw too largely upon the reservoirs oi the plant, greatly exhausting it, and sometimes lead to its entii-e collapse iAie following season ; neither should the flowers be allowed to remain on the plant for too long a time, especially if the plant is at all weak. Oncidiums, Odontoglossums, Phala3nopsis, and Vanda caerulea, suffer from tliis cause more than other Orchids, as these kinds generally throw large spikes with a great number of flowei's upon them, and should not be allowed to become too dry. Should the plant be in a weak condition and allowed to flower, the blooms must be cut immediately, or the plants will be still fui-ther weakened and probably dwindle away. The removal of the flower is no deprivation to the owner, as it will keep a very long time in water. Even where strong and vigorous it is not advisable to allow the spikes to remain on the plant more than a fortnight. Any small glasses or neat little vessels for holding the flower spikes can be judiciously placed among the plants, and but few casual observers would notice that the flowers had been removed from their parent stems. PLANTS THAT MAY BE GROWN WITH ORCHIDS. The oultm-e of Orchids need not in any way lead to the exclusion of the beautiful f oliaged or flowering plants, and esi^ecially Ferns, which are generally found in every greenhouse ; in fact, it would often prove to be a distinct advantage to these plants to be in the same house, as the atmosphere is more suited to their requirements than that generally maintained in an ordinary gi-eenhouse. There are, however, some plants which would probably not be a success if grown M-ith Orchids during summer, but could be wintered very well with Cool Orcliids. I refer to such as Pelargoniums, Fuchsias, tuberous-rooted Begonias, II}-drangeas, Azaleas, Camellias, Cyclamen, Primulas, and others — those are best gi-own by themselves if possible during summer. The class of j^lants most suitable for growing with Orcliids arc Ferns, small Palms, and pretty foliaged plants, all of which give com- paratively little trouble in growing, are not so subject to insect pests, and are in harmony with the Orchids. There are also some of the more beautiful and not yet too gaudy flowered stove and greenhouse plants, which will flower well in the Cool Orchid-house, on account of its being kept moist, shaded, and with a genial gi-owing atmosphei-e. Amongst the many pretty and suitable plants are tlie winter-flo\\'ering Begonias, also some of the charming ornamental-loaved section, many of the Palms and Ferns, Abutilons, Pilea muscosa. Aralias, Asparagus •plumosus, Asparagus deflcxus, Crotons, Cyperus, Dracteuas, Isolepis, orx'iiiDs: now to cjeow tuem successfully. •'>, the pretty variegated Panicuiii for a front fringe to the OrcLid stage, Pellonias, Eulalias, Selaginellas, Tradescantias, and many others, but these names are sufficient as a guide. For the Intermediate Orchid-house, such plants as the follownng may be used : AUamandas, Aristolochias, Hoyas, Bougainvilleas, Cissus discolor, Passifloras as climbers on the rafters, but so as not to obstruct light more than can be helped ; also Coleus, Anthuriuins, and other plants mentioned in the Cool-house list. For the warmer, or Hot-house plants, requiring more heat, then, such as Alocassias, Gardenias, Nepenthes (the pitcher plant), Eucharis, Gloxinias, Euphorbias, Gloriosa, Ixoras, Hibiscus, Poinsettia, Pancra- tiums, Pandanus, Crotons, and others. It should be remembered, that when Orchids are grown in company ■mth other plants, the Orchids must have the first consideration, and be given the position most likely to suit them. By standing them on inverted flower pots they can be kept well above the foliage of other plants, thus enabling the air to circulate freely about them, and at the same time admitting plenty of light ; in no case must the plants be allowed to be become infested with insects or serious results may ensue. If it can be arranged, without danger of shading the Orchids underneath, a few of the best warm greenhouse or stove climbers ma,y be grown and trained to the rafters, but it must be borne in mind that some of these climbei-s are subject to mealy bug and other troublesome insects which will need careful watching and attention. THE COOL HOUSE. Tliis illustration represents a model house for a new structure for Cool-house Orchids, and it should have east and west side aspects, so as to get an equal amount of light. A. shows the bottom ventilation, which should be on a level with the liot-water pipes and protected inside with perforated zinc, with the holes not too small, but sufficiently so to keep out vermin. B. shows top ventilation, and C. shows side ventilation, which is very beneficial to Cool Orchids, if opened sliglitly when the atmosphere outside is damp and not very cold, but they should not be open in very dry or cold weather. I), shows the frame- work to support the roller blinds, and E. the roller blind. F. is the end section, showing the centre and side stages, wliich should be open wood-work, so that the air may have free circulation amongst the plants. G. indicates the slates or tiles sujiported on l)ricks, immetliately over and three or four inches from the pipes, and on these half decaying leaves of trees should placed at intervals, to throw off a nice moisture impregnated with ammonia from the leaves, and assimilated H'ith the dry heat from the pijies. //. is the soft water tank, a gi-eat essential in an Orchid-house. If a supply from an outside pressure from water- works in the town should exist, and an india rubber hose sufficieutly 58 OKCHIDS : HOW TO GROW TIIEM SUCCESSFULLY. long is connected, the entire lengtli of the house can soon be damped down — and this is so often needed in hot, dry weather — thoroughly- watering every available space about the floor and stages, without watering the plants over head. If a syringe has to be used for this purpose, much longer time is required. THE INTERMEDIATE HOUSE. Such a house ruuniug from east to west, the sides having one a northern, the other a southern aspect, would enable an amateur to grow a still greater variety of Orchids successfully — those requiring a great amount of light being placed on the south side, and those loving shade on the northern side. This house is identical in structui-e with the Cool house, with this exception, that it is convenient to have the house higher, as some of the Intermediate-house Orchids have a taller habit of growth and requu-e more head room ; and the side ventilation, except that opposite the pipes, may also be dispensed with. The centre stage need not be quite so high as in the Cool house, and can have wider top space to accommodate tall growing specimens. The same an-angement will be required for the leaves over the hot- water pipes as is advised for the cooler house. THE WARM, OR EAST INDIA HOUSE should have the same aspect as the preceding structure, so that full advantage may be taken of the light and shade afforded, and which is so necessary to the occupants of this house. The roof should be high, and somewhat flatter, but well supported, in order that the interior may be utilised to its full extent for suspending plants, many of the Warm- house Orchids thriving much better when near the glass. The centre stage {F.) should be rather lower than figured, the soft water tank running the full length of the stage; and it is a good plan to run a one- inch i)ipe right through the water in the cistern, and connected with the other i)ipes, so that the water for the supply of the plants may be warmed to about ten degrees above the tomperatui-e of the house, as it then gives off a moisture most beneficial to the plants when in a growing state, but dm-ing the growing season only. Care must be taken not to have the one-inch pipe too hot, or steam will be generated to such an extent as to injure the young growth of the plants, causing spot or rot. Should no tank exist, it then becomes necessary to have a supply of water in the house for watering purposes, either in cans, pails, or other utensils, which should be placed in the house sufficiently long to be warmed as nearly as possible to the temperature of the house. As this structure is high, necessitating perhaps more side glass, it is advisable to have roller blinds fixed on the south side of the house as well as on the roof, although a permanent shading of whitijig, mixed ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THE3J SUCCESSFULLY. 69 m P O W w o o P o 60 OliCUlUS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. with niilk, can be used, or summer cloud -nail answer the same purpose ; but roller blinds are much to be preferred, as they can be rolled up in dull weather. Side ventilation (not bottom) is lonnecessary, and what is knowTi as "drip" must be prevented, drip being caused by water from the moist atniosphere condensing on the roof and running down the sash bars on to the plants, satui-ating them and causing loss of the young growths and pseudobulbs. This is most to be feared in the Warm house, where the roof is flatter and a larger amount of moistvire is required for the plants, or in cases when the house has not been properly constructed for Orchid culture. Horticultural builders have of late paid much greater attention to this subject, the sash bars being so constructed that all condensed moisture on the roof is collected and carried away by means of a channel or fuiTow, formed on either side of the sash bars. If the drip is found to be very troublesome, in the absence of these furrowed sash bars, it can be dealt with, to a great extent, by fastening small strips of zinc in the form of a gutter to caiTy away the water. EvAPORATlXG Troughs, on the pipes, are aids to the assimilation of moistm-e with the atmosphere, and for helping to keep down such insect pests as thrip and apliis. By keeping the troughs regularly supplied with water, and placing in them any waste tobacco or other substance containiug nicotine, the fumes arising therefrom will have a beneficial effect upon the plants. MANURE AID TO ORCHIDS. This is somewhat dangerous ground to tread upon, but a few words on the subject must be written. The structure of an Orchid and method of deriving nourishment being so different to tliat of most exotic plants, it behoves the cultivator, before applying manure as he does to other plants, to consider what is the proper manure to use, and how and when to apply it. Orcliid gxowers have no doubt used manures, some are still doing so, but as a rule their experiments are made entu-ely in the dark, sometimes with good results, and at other times the plants give no evidence of any improvement but are frequently the worse for its application. My own experience, gained by practice in cultivation, is, that as a rule, hai-m Avould be done by applying artificial manures to the roots of the plants, as advised by some gi'owers, unless under exceptional conditions. Growth can be assisted by applying manurial aid atmospherically, and all the help that epiphytal Orchids require at our hands is, that the compost should be kept sweet and sound, and not allowed to get into a sour and decomposing state, using clean soft water and administering pm-e an- on every favourable occasion, for they deiive so much of their nourishment from the atmosphere by means of their roots and the under sui'face of the foliage. ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW TUEJI SUCCESSFULLY. 61 Soot water is an excellent thing to apply to the paths for evapora- tion, but those living in large smoky towns would never di-eani of applying soot, the air being already sufficiently charged with it. Lime water can also be used, but I doubt if it would be beneficial in districts where the water supply comes through chalk. Guano, in small quantities, sprinkled on the floor occasionally, I never knew to do any harm, and I have often thought that plants showed increased vigour and strength when it was used in this way. I also use liquid farmyard manure, by pouring the contents of a small watering can on the floor occasionally, and of an evening when all is quiet. The evaporation from such stimulants being desirable, not so much for inducing moistui-e as for producing a manurial stimulant in the atmosphere. Cultivators will also please to remember the plan I have ab'eady indicated (see piuje bl) of providing a supply of new leaves, laid on slates or tiles raised a few inches above the hot water pipes, to produce evaporation and assist in maintaining an even moist temperature. I have at times poured weak liquid manure into the troughs on the hot water pipes with good results, the ammonia from it escaping gradually into the house. PROTECTION FEOM COLD DUEING WINTER. Although we cannot do without fire heat, every successful culti- vator tries to do wdth as little as possible ; of course, duly considering what the requisite temperatiu-e should be and the health of his plants require. In very cold weather, when it is necessary to drive the fire hard, an impoverishing aridity in the atmosphere of the house is the result, and even then the thermometer naay still show a temperatm-e below the given point. It frequently happens that plants, especially those near the roof or stmding near the glass ends of the house, have, in the morning, a heavy dew-like moistiu-e on them, and this sometimes remains on the plants the whole day. This is not a satisfactorj' state of tilings for the plant, and is brought about by the condensation that arises from the exti-eme cold air outside acting upon the glass Avith very- much warmer an- inside. A simple and effectual remedy in such a case is to apply some kind of protecting material in cold weather, such as garden mats, canvas, or pieces of sailcloth, either of which would make a diff'orence of from five to ton degrees in the warmth of the house, especially when the doors and further end of the house is protected. Some persons leave the roller blinds in position for winter protection of of the roof, but, as a rule, the canvas is too thin to be of much sei-vice and soon wears out with the winter weather and storms. Whatever is chosen for covering should be so arranged as to be convenient for use and removal when not wanted. I have occasionally kept the roof so covered, both night and day, in extremely cold or very windy weather, for if the plants are receiving plenty of light at all other times, a day's comparative darkness now and then does no harm. 62 ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. ' EXCESSIVE HEAT TO ORCHIDS. I have already deprecated any attempt to force Orcliids pre- maturely into flower or growth, by giving them a much higher temperatiu-e than they ought to have. To ensui'e free healthy growth I wish again to warn young growers of the dangers to the health of the plant by so doing, for, from this cause alone, many plants are Aveakened in constitution, and get into a debilitated state, from which they do not easily recover. This will apply to all species, but more especially to those recognised as " Cool-house Orchids," these certainly will not submit to excessive heat ; and nothing could be more suicidal than to attempt to force the flowers to expand at a given date, by placing the plant in extra warmth. Should this be done for exhibition, or for any other purpose, no surprise need be felt if the plant is reduced in vitality, and become an easy prey to insect pests ; while no appreciable difference is made in the time of blooming, indeed, in some cases it is later, while in others the flowers may be a little earlier but of an inferior quality, and shorter lived than when allowed to develop gradually in theii- proper temperatui'e. Instead of forcing, it is much safer to retard the blooming, but even this I do not recommend. The time of flowering of a few Orchids may, however, be made earlier or later than its usiial period, if desired, by a systematic gentle application of more wannth or cold during the time the plants are pushing their flower spikes. The treatment for the first year may make very little difference, but in the succeeding years it will be more apparent, and tlie plants remain healthy and strong. Some species of Dendrobiums are more amenable than most Orchids to this treatment in the matter of flowering at an earlier date, and when sound plants are gro\\Ti of such species of Dendrobium as "Wardianum, uobile, am-eum, Ainsworthii, lituiflorum, Devonianum, and Pierardi, the gi-eater pai't of which flower at the latter end of February, it is easy to extend their blooming period, say from January to the end of March. I have often had them in flower at Christmas, but it is too early for them, the flowers being weak and few, and the new gi'owth much weakened. If it is desirable to have Dendrobiums by the beginning of February, they shoidd be taken from their resting quarters with a cool, dry temperatui'e of between 45 to 50 degrees, and, after being sponged over, and examined for red spider, and tied up neatly to fresh sticks, the plants should be removed and gi-adually inured to a warmer place in the Intermediate house, where they can have plenty of light, watering them very carefully, or the flower buds may tiu'n yellow and die, or run to growth instead of flower. If the instructions given are followed, the blooms will be better coloured than if pushed on all the time in a warmer house ; no excessive measui-e must be brought to bear upon them, either to "retard" or to "hasten." ■*■ .irfoltoV •itJn. Plate 3. Y //'^ %^4\\^v '^^^^< hr-^x's^ ^ .r'^/;//^./ff^^^f^'^-S:-\ V- \r / 1— Dendrotium Phalssnopsis (light variety, two flowers) 2~Dandroll>!nra Phalsenopais (dark variety). 3 -Masdevallla Harryana. 4— Laelia Dayana. 8_0ncldlum Forbesl. 6- Oncidlum tlgrlnum. 7— Odontoglossura grand e. - 8— Mlltonla Boezlli. 9— Dendrobium x Ca&siope. 10— Laelia anceps. 11— Laelia albida. *" la-Calantlie Veltchu "^ Plate 3 AUTUMN AM) njA/£.A' /< i,L> i\ £.ai.\u \^i\.^niiy^ (SOMB or THK IXOWEJtS AKE MUCH KEDCCKD). OKCHLDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. 63 TREATMENT OF ORCHIDS THROUGHOUT THE YEAR. FOR TEMPERATURES, SEE TABLE, PAGE 31. JANTTAEY. Cool House. — Winter Temperature. Dining tliis ilark, dull month scarcely any potting will be required, but attention should be given to cleanliness, ventilation, watering, &c. Open the bottom ventilators, more or less, in accordance with the outside conditions; and if that should be damp and mild, the top ventilators may be opened a little, especially on the leeward side, and a little tire heat used, to temper the atmosphere and promote the circulation of aii'. Should excessive cold weather prevail, it will be best to close all the ventilators and have the hot- water pijies sufficiently heated to keep the thennometer at the proper degree of heat, also affording a little more moisture both to the roots and in the atmosphere than is required in dull, damp weather. In mild weather damp down about once a day, and twice when much fu-e heat is used. Generally speaking, all gro\Ning plants should be more spaiingly watered at this season of the year. Plants which are dormant (resting), such as some of the Dendrobes, Coelogynes, Angvdoas, &c., may have sufficient water only to prevent the pseudobulbs from shrivelling. The autimin- flowered Pleiones may be repotted and suspended near the roof, giving but little water at first. Examine all the plants and clean them, wash their pots when wanted, look well after slugs, and if any signs of thrip should be visible — and their work may soon be detected in the centre of the young gi-owth, which then assumes a light-tinted sickly apj)ear- ance and showing a small watery-looking mark — then dust a pinch of tobacco powder well into the growth affected. Thiip and slugs are especially fond of the young flower spikes and buds as they appear from the sides of the pseudobulbs, and should be watched for as previously advised. Intermediate House. — Winter Temperature. Keep the temperatui-e up in cold weather and temper the atmosphere by the admission of fresh air, given chiefly thi-ough the bottom ventilators, and damping do-n-n the floors, &c., once or more 61 ORcniDS : now to enow tiieii successfuij.y. a day as may be requisite; and diuing mild weatter a few degrees may be added to the temperatm-e, but avoiding any approach to a stuffy, close atmosphere. "When in smoky towns fogs are common, during the time they prevail the atmosphere should be kept rather more moist and warm than usual ; and the evergi-een Orcliids, especially those which should be kept comparatively dry, such as Cattleyas and Laelias, should then not be too dry at the roots, or the foliage would probably suffer and prematurely di'op, greatly weakening the plant. Immediately after a dense fog it is most advisable to look over the plants and sponge the leaves with clear rain water, in order to remove the sediment deposited thereon. The WARir, ok East India House. — Winter Temperature. This heat shoidd be maintained if possible, %\ith a little bottom aii- if the weather permits, and moisture applied, by damping do^Ti the paths, &c., about twdce a day, according to the amount of fii'e heat employed. Cj^^ripediums may be repotted ; Calanthes which have done blooming should be placed on a shelf close to the glass and kept dry. Use tobacco powder on all plants when thrip is foimd, and keep a sharp look out for red spider on the J'oung foliage of Dendi'obiums, and any Dendrobiums in bud or in flower may be kept a little moist at the roots. Bi-ing in a few of the Dendrobiums resting in a cooler house. FEBRUARY. Cool HOVS'E.—Winier Temperature. With increased sun heat the day temperatui-e of this house niay rise three degrees ; continue the same care in ventilating, damping, watering, and the detection of insects, and always have a sufficient amount of fire heat and no more. The repotting of auj^ Odontoglossum crispum and its allies, as they go out of bloom and begin making new growth, may be proceeded with, and pick over the siu-face moss of others in the same stage of growth which are in good condition, and top dress Avith fresh sphagnum and peat. (See note under the heading of Odontoglossum crispuui.) IxTKHMEDlATE IIouSE.— II7//age 36). Look out for red spider, and sponge the leaves with insecticide. Much care is ■•accessary in ventilating, so as to ensure cu'culation without the atmosphei'e becoming cold. Ai'range near the glass all plants requiring light, and those wanting shade farther away. APRIL. Cool House. — Spring Temperature. We often have changeable trying weather in this month demanding constant watchfulness, and it is better to use the shading freely than to admit cold air through the ventilators ; keep a regular supjily of moistiu'e on the paths, stages, and other sm-faces. Very little heat \vill now be wanted from the hot-water pipes in this house, but as the nights are often cold, a little heat should be given. Be always on the look out for thrip, for if it gains a strong foothold this month it -^vill probably remain all the summer, in larger or smaller quantities. The repotting of Odontoglossum crispum and others of similar growth should still continue throughout the summer when they an'ive at the proper stage, always expecting them to shrivel a little afterwards. The repotting of all other Cool Orchids may be pushed on with as they are ready ; but little heat mil now be required from the hot- water pipes unless the nights ai*e very cold, as is sometimes the case, then a little more heat must be used, also ventilating at the same time. ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. 67 Intermediate House. — Ttmperature generally the same as for March, but a few degrees higher does no harm if the veather is ivarm ; fire heat during the day may he dispensed loith in ivarm tveather. Shading should now be in use for a few hoiu's when the days are bright -n-ith sunshine, but inure the plants gTadually to the influence of the sun after the dull ■v\-inter ; even the Mexican Orchids which will stand a gi'eat deal of sun become scorched when too early exposed after so much sunless weather, and with bright sunshine by day and frost at night it is advisable to raaintain a svifficient amount of uioistui'e, as the plants, if in too dry a state, may suffer at such times. Where the roots of Cattleyas and any Orchids maj' be j)ushing into gi-owth the plants should be at once taken in hand and repotted, or top dressed, as may be best, for if the new roots are allowed to get too long before doing so they get injured. Damp down the floors, &c., two or three times a day. Warm House. — Temperature, day luith sun, 80°; day ivithout sun, 73°; night, 70°; morning, 65°. This month is generally a busy one, and the sooner the plants are attended to after fiowei'ing and got into their gi-owing quartei's the better. It is necessary to be very careful in watering Dendrobiums just starting into gi-owth, especially D. Bensonii and D. superbuin. A uniformly moist atmosphere shoidd at this season be constantly maintained, allowing it to become somewhat dry at mid-day, and keeping a watchful eye for red spider and thrip. Most of the Dendrobiums will now have pushed theii- flower buds, and should be placed in their gi'owing quarters, and careful watering observed for all species. MAY. Cool House. — Summer Temperature. Well damp down at least three times a day; in hot weather at this season spraying the plants slightlj' overhead wUl do no harm if done in the afternoon of a di-ying day, but I do not approve of damping the plants overhead as a general rule. If the atmosphere is properly attended to fire heat should not now be requisite, provided the weather is not exceptionally cold for tlie time of the year. When the sun gets upon the house in the morning let down the blinds, alloNving them to remain down until all fear of the teiuperatui'e being increased has passed. Do not close the Cool Orchid house by shutting the ventilators as the sun is declining as is customary with Warm houses. Cool Orchids are easily injured by heat and object to this close heat, therefore, air should be left on day and night, in large or small quantities, as required. Attend to repotting as the plants go out of 68 OnCHlDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. flower. Should there be any gi'eat cliffi(;ulty in keeping down, the temperatiu-e of the house owing to its exposed position, then, in addition to the roller blinds, a permanent shading of " summer cloud.'.' or some similar mixtiu-e, applied thinly on the glass, will probably be beneficial during May, June, July and August, or perhaps, what would be better, some thick shading such as bamboo or garden mat. IxTERMEDIATE HouSE. — Summer Temperature. Damping down will now be necessary, morning, noon, and night ; and the plants examined each day, and watered only if they are in a condition to need it, for plants, even whilst growing, should not be kept in a saturated condition. At this period of the year the plants should occasionally be sprayed overhead with clear soft or rain water, especially after a dry, hot day, doing this in the afternoon, when the air has been reduced and the blind rolled up, and warmth from the sun's rays is declining. The Mexican Orchids, or those growing in the most sunny parts of the house, may be weU sj^inged, as the plants from having little or no shading over them get dry quickly, and it also helps so much in checking the Avork of iujiu-ious insects. By reducing the air whilst the sun is still acting upon the house, an amount of warmth is stored whic;h will last until late in the evening wheu a littlf fire heat may be necessary, particularly should the night be cold. "Warm House. — Summer Temperature. Attend well to the temperature and atmosphere by ventilaling carofullj', so that no cold arid draught is caused, and the admitted air is as pure as possible. Ventilate chiefly on the leeward side, and use shading during the hottest part of the day, but not too early in the morning, and rolling up the blind rather early in the afternoon, whilst the sun has some power, at the same time reducing the ventilation and thoroughly damping down the house, thus creating a warm and very moist atmosphere which ■will last until late in the evening, when it may be necessary to have a little warmth in the pipes to prevent too low a tempcratiu:e. JUNE. Cool House. — Summer Temperature. Great injury will be inflicted on the plants during the summer months, if allowed to suffer from drought at the roots. Examine the plants each morning, and water those where the sphagnima moss shows a whitish colom-. Thi'ip breed rapidly at this season, and. like all other insects, nuist be kept down by the methods abeaSy indicated. Instances of over-\A'atering now will be rare when the plants have been properly potted, and the compost as well as the jjlauts are in good OECIItttS : HOW TO GllOW THEM SUCCESSrULLY. G() condition. Keep up an abundance of moistui-e in the atmosphere, as it is well nigh impossible to use too much water about for evaporation. Intermediate House. — Summer Temperature. Plants will now advance very rapidly, and in all weathers the [jl.ints must have every encouragement to promote quick growth by giving libei'al supplies of water at the root, and moisture in the atmos- phere of the house, and this can be easily seciu-ed by damping down freqiiently, provided proper ventilation secures a gentle circulation of fresh ail-. A fresh supply of tree leaves saved from last year slundd be placed under the stages above the pipes, and .watering now should be done in the afternoon or evening. Cattleyas, and indeed other Orchids, often have a little shrivelled ap])earance after flowering, but soon regain vigour and plumpness with liberal treatment. Be sm-e and keep a shai-p look out for the Cattleya fly and j^ay strict attention generally to cleanliness, for at this season scale of various kinds are rather trouble- some, and increase at an aliirming rate. Warm House. — Summer Temperature. Warmth from the sun is most beneficial to the plants at all times, and l)ut little fu-e heat may now be used, except dm-ing cold or chilly dull weather. Keep a sharp look out for the Dendrobium beetle ; and it is advisable at this season to continue a supply of tree leaves, or, failing these, some other material for giving moisture, by ]ilaciug them under the stages, and thereby materially assisting the plants. Keej) up an abundance of moisture and look well after any signs of thrip or red spider. Calanthes should now be well rooted and may receive more water. This will be a busy montli in all departments, for a gi-eat many Intermediate and Warm Orchids require rei)otting between April and the present time ; a few only should be done later. JULY. Cool House. — Summer 'Temperainre. Should the heating apparatus require repaii-ing or altering, this is the most suitable month to get it put right, letting the work be completed as speedily as possible, certainly by the middle or latter part of August. The repotting of all kinds of Cool Orchids should still be gone on with, and if the sphagnum moss on the sm-face of the pots b(>gins to cover the pseudobulbs, it should be pressed neatly down with the fingers Avhilst it is wet, but it may ultimately become necessary to remove it and substitute a fresh top dressing of sphagimm, which will probably also grow. I have often heard it remarked that Orchids make no growth unless the sphagnum is doing so. That Orchids generally do well when the sphagnum grows freely I admit, but it is not absolutely necessary for the welfare of the plants. 70 ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSJFULLY. Ijs'TERMEDIATE House. — Summer Temperature. If tlirip should get a fii-m hold of the plants, now that they are making growth, the foliage is soon disfigured, but its presence may be detected by the apj)earance of browTi marks on the young foliage in course of formation, and when once the insects get down into the centre and under the skin which shield the young bulbs it is impossible to dislodge them by fumigation alone. Tobacco powder should then be used, sprinkling a pinch down the axils, but it is wisest to look out for thrip in its earliest stage, and be on the watch for any sign of the Cattleya fly, which will attack such species as C. Mossiae, C. Mendelii, and C. Trianae in particular. Damp down at least three times a day, and take care that no burning occurs from insufficient shading. Very little repotting will now remain to be done, and any Orchid that has finished its gi'owth may receive more air, but let the same amoiint of water be given for a time. AVaeji House. — Summer Temperature. As the new gi'owth of Dendrobiums increase in size, and form fresh roots, a little weak liquid manure may be given (see page 60). Dryness at the roots, or a dry atmosphere are most undesirable just now, as the plants are in active growth and should have no check either from this or any other cause. A gentle sprajdng overhead may now be beneficial in the afternoon or during very dry wcatlicr. AUGUST. Coot. House. — Summer Temperature. Continue to maintain a free circulation of air, keeping the atmosphere as cool, yet as moist as possible, bearing in mind that these plants grow chiefly at a great elevation where the atmosphere, although heavily charged with moisture, is still buoyant, conditions which a cultivator should endeavour to imitate. When it has been necessary to use a permanent shading through the summer months, it should now be reduced in density by having a good portion wiped off. Plants in which the pseudobulbs have completed their gi-owth must now have water supplied to them in lesser quantities. Keeping the plants free from insect pests requires considerable time and perseverance at this hot season. Slugs arc also on the alert in da7np houses and should be ti'appcd. Intermediate House. — Summer Temperature. During this month many of the pseudobidbs reach matiu-ity, such as Cattleya Trianae, C Warscewiczii, and C. Dowiaua am-ea. Let the l^lants be placed near the light at the coolest pai-t of the house, close to a ventilator, and reduce the quantity of water, or they ^iU commence a second orowth, and this should be avoided if possible, as second gnnvths rarely come to maturity until very late in the autumn. The two ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEil SUCCESSFULLY. 71 last named Cattleyas having flowered, the old flower sheaths should be entirely removed, as they are liable to decay in dull wet weather, and unless this is done in time the base of the leaf may be aifected and drop before it is observed, the rotting or decay passing do v\ti wards and soon affecting the newly made bulbs. The old sheath should be cleanly removed. By a slight pull sideways it will slij) easily away, and renders decay improbable. Continue to damp down freely. Warm House. — Summer Tempeixdure. Fii-e heat, on aU occasions, both day and night, may generally be safely dispensed with during this month. Dendi'obiums should be looked over now, and all that have finished up their pseudobulbs removed to more cool, airy, diy, and sunny quarters to prevent second growth, always taking care that the change is gradual so as not to give an unnecessary check, and after they are by degrees fully exposed to both air and sun continue to water but not quite so often. Many kinds, such as Dendi-obiura Wardianum, D. nobile. and D. crassinode delight in a long rest, in a house having a cool, free ventilation, and fuU sunlight. Such treatment gi-eatly assists the plants of such kinds as I have named in acquii-ing a strong constitution and they flower more freely; but all the Dendrobiums will not stand this treatment. It has become necessary for the cultivator to find out whether his particular plant requues a Warm house or a moderately Cool one to rest in, as much depends upon the mnter ti'eatment the plant receives. No more shading should be used than is absolutely necessary, so that the growth may get weU matui-ed as it is formed, and produce short, stout, well hardened bulbs, which should be the aim of every grower — thin sappy gi'owths being of little use. Damp down freely. SEPTEMBER. Cool House. — Temperature, diiy with sun, 6S°; day without sun, about 63" ; ni(jht, oo" ; morrdny, 50^. The repotting of Odontoglossums of the crispum type should be discontinued after the end of this month, such is my experience, especially in large towns where the winter light is bad. All Cool Orchids are materially strengthened by the dewy night air being admitted through the ventilators, which should not be fully closed during this month. Continue to damp down well and gradually use less shading. INTERMEDLA.TE HoUSE. — Temperature, day with sun, 70° to lo" ; day without sun, 68° ; niyht. 63° ; morning, 60°. Many more plants will now be fast approaching maturity, and any Cattleyas which have not completed then- growth should now be placed in the warmest part of the house, and those which have finished their 72 ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. gro^vth at the coolest, wliei-e a goodly amount of aii- can be given. The cool night air of September, pi-operly admitted, braces and strengthens all species of Orchids growing in Intermediate houses, their slender pseudobulbs inci-easing in stui-diness and plenty of new ones are formed, and the foliage assumes a bronzed appearance or an intense green coloTir. It is as well to defer the use of fire heat until the last moment, 60 to 65 degrees being a good night temperatm-e. Below 60 degi-ees a little fire heat is necessary. Air may be admitted this month rather more freely, but damping at least two or three times a day. Warm House. — Temperature — this should now he reduced in accordance with the shorter days and colder weather, hut give fire hent at night — day with sun, 75° to 85° ; day without sun, 70° to 75° ; night, 70" ; morning, 65° to 70°. Calanthes will now be tlirowiug up flower spikes, and a little liquid manure will be beneficial to them, but they should neither be too wet at the root nor too diy. Eemove any permanent shading on the glass, and use the roller blind only when necessary; but in giving more light in this way do it gradually, so that no plant sufi"ers by exposiu-e. Such Orchids as Phalsenopsis, Saccolabiums, Aerides, &c., will be best in a shady position, as these plants are often most seriously injured by subjecting them to the treatment given to others. Many more Dendrobiums may now go into cooler quarters, but be carefid not to take those requiring a wai-m -n-inter temperature. Damp down two or three times a day. OCTOBER. Cool House. — Autumn Temperature. Fire heat will again be necessary if the nights get too cold, it being best to have gentle warmth in the pipes, and ventilation on, than to have the house shut up without the warmth, as such treatment often produces fungus or mildew in the form of spots on the under surface of the foliage of Odontoglossums, and, if not wiped off instantly, a permanent mark in the form of a rusty spot is left ; the flowers also often become spotted by the damp. With this v>'armth, refuse tobacco, as before recommended, may be used in the troughs on the hot-water pipes. Boiler blinds should now only be lowered for a few houi-s when the sun is strong. Oncidium crispum may be jjotted dui-ing the autumn moTiths. Intermebiate House. — Antumn Temperature. The time has now airived when water should be given with great care, not keeping them very dry at present, for I have at times seen plants so shrivelled from drought as to be beyond recovery, while others frequently come under my notice that are suffering from the effects of too much water {see remarks on Besting, page 51). The roller ORCHIDS : HOW TO GKOW THEil SUCCESSFULLY. 73 blind will now be rarely needed, but should not yet be taken dowTi. A fresh supply of leaves should be placed over the pipes or under the stages, as previously recommended; and beware of wood-lice and cocki'oaches, as they ai-e ver}'- troublesome at this season. Ventilate as freely as the outside conditions will admit, and damp down twice a day. Warm House. — Autumn Temperature. Let damping dowii now be done about twice a day, as the aii- at this season should be kept somewhat drier, the growing period having passed, and this will tend to harden ofP the growth. I am not advocating such rigorous treatment as for the Mexican Orchids, but that a less moist temperature should be given to others, as well as less water at the roots, and air admitted on all suitable occasions, having a little fire heat to promote a quick cii-culation and also a buoyant atmosphere, as bracing as possible. With this a healthful tone is given to the plants and is of material benefit to them throughout the A\anter months. By this means all intermediate second growth is arrested. NOVEMBER. Cool House. — Autumn Temperature. With repotting and top dressing finished, watering of the plants must be done with care, giving only to those which may still be making a little growth, and only now and then to the inactive, sufficient to keep them pluuip. Now that so little time will have to be spent in watering and damping down, for once or t^ace a day for damping wdll be sufficient, according to the fii-e heat in use, there will be plenty of time for a general cleaning up, washing the pots, thoroughly cleaning the plants, and destroying any insects that may be discovered in their liiding places ; tlic woodwork, glass, and stages must also have attenticm, clearing away all dii't and rubbish, whitewashing the walls, and making all snug and clean. Orchids producing flower spikes should be raised above the others by using inverted flower pots, so that they may be easily watched and protected from slugs and other enemies. Let the houses still have plenty of air when the weather is favoiu'able. Intermediate House. — Autumn Tempjeratare. With increased fire heat now, see that the atmosi>heric conditions of the house have careful attention. Damp, nun-ky weather at this time of the year should be counteracted by just sufficient warmth in the pipes and house to allow air to be admitted thi-ough the top and bottom ventilators, both night and day, unless the outside air is too cold or there is the certainty of frost. In tow^ls where smoke prevails and when there are fogs, it is best to exclude the outside air at such times, seeing that the plants and 74 OllCHIDS : HOW to GUOW THEM: StfCCESSFtJLLY. atmosphere are not over dry. Afterwards well wash the glass to remove all dirt and to obtain all the light possible, also go over the plants with a sponge to remove the soot, &c., that is deposited on the leaves. Damp down once or trt-ice a day. • Warm House. — Ai(tvmv Temperature. Now that more fii-e heat will be needed, see that the atmosphere does not become too dry and arid, and damp down about twice a day. I decidedly advocate sufficient rest for the plants, but some cultivators do this to too great an extent. It should not be forgotten that in their native habitats, should it not rain through the dry season, there are refreshing dews at nights which serve to refresh vegetation. Let any cleaning up also be attended to here, as in the other houses, and ventilate with gi-cat care. DECEMBER. Cool House. — Winter Temperature. During this month a good amount of fii'e heat will be wanted, but avoid giving it in excess, tempering it as much as possible by dampiug the house once or twice a day, as may be thought necessary, and ventilating at top and bottom if the outside conditions admit of this being done, especially on the leeward side, also raise the plants nearer to the glass, and be very careful as to watering. Intermediate House.— W^/wier Temperature. See that no Orchid overhangs or shades another, studying which place in the house is most suitable for each plant, and when such a place is found, keep it there until the end of the winter or longer. Damping once or t-wice a day, as may be found necessary, and keep the temperature steady. Many plants in a growing state will still make but little progress, but do not try to force them by giving extra heat; rather be contented to keep in good health the plant as it is. Pleiones may be re-panned or re-basketed and suspended from the roof for a time, and kept moist. Warm House. — Winter Temperature. If any ventilation is needed it must be carefully given, avoiding extremes in temperature, and on no account try to force Orchids by a superabundance of heat and moisture. In exceptionally severe weather it is best to keep a covering on the roofs during the night, and removing it if possible during the day. If Dendrobiums are par- ticularly wanted in flower by the end of the month, a few of the earliest blooming, such as Wardianum and nobUe, may be brought into more warmth, but it is best for the plants not to do so until the beginning of February. Damp down about twice a daj'^, and do not allow plants in flower to become too dry at the root. *>■ 0f&n Plate 4. / ^ 1— Dendrobluni superblens. 2 MasdevalUa tovartnsis. 3-Maxlllaria. grandlflora. 4- Vanda coerulea. 5— Laelia autumnalis. 6-OdontogIossuiri Urosklnnerl, 7 Cattleya maxima. 8 -Oncldium varicosum. 9 Selenipedlum x Sedeni. Plate 4 WIXTEH AXD SPKIiWG FLO\VEKI\G UKLHlUi,. (some or TRK rLOWBRa ARK MUCH RKDUCED). ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW TilEM SUCCES.SI-ULLY. HIiNTS TO ORCHID BUYERS. THE pi'ices hereafter quoted are for good strong healthy plants, with full sized pseudobulbs, having (excepting where otherwise mentioned) one good leading pseudobulb or gi-owth. The terms "newly imported," "semi-established," or "estab- lished" refers to the condition in which the plants may be purchased with good results, that wliich is placed fii'st indicating the condition most to be recommended. Owing to the risks of establishing newly imported plants they can, of course, be purchased at the lowest prices, as, from some cause or another, they occasionally die ; semi- established plants command a trifle higher prices ; but if the plants are established, and have bloomed, the price is then, in most cases, fixed according to the character or quality of the flower ; sometimes this is above and at others below the average newly imported price. The prices of Orchids often vary from year to year, and are ruled by the quantities imported, but, taken generally, the prices I have quoted will be fair to both the buyer and the seller, in fact, good reliable plants can scarcely be obtained at a cheaper rate, although advertisements sometinxes are seen offering " first-class plants" at much lower prices, statements which shoidd generally be accepted ■wdth some reserve. I wish again to refer those who are about commencing to grow Orchids, to my remarks on pages 4 to 9. I know that we all expect to pay for our experience, but it has frequently occurred to me that many amateiu'S have had to do so too dearly, which has led to the cultivation of Orchids being discarded by some. 7(1 oRcniDS : how to grow them successfully. VARIETIES FOR AMATEURS' SMALL COLLECTIONS. 1 PURPOSE giving the names of two dozen species which are good useful kinds for a beginner to start with, and can be cultivated as Cool-house Orchids ; foUomng on with the same number for Intermediate-house culture ; also twenty-four of the best for a Warm house. Also with cultural instructions for each sort, which, from my o\\ti experience. I have found to give the best results. COOL HOUSE ORCHIDS. Odontoglossum crispum. From Colombia. {Syn. O. AlexandrsB.) This beautiful Orchid is a great favourite, and was re-named in honom- of H.R.H. the Princess of Wales, and it is repeatedly referred to under the name of O. Alexandi-se, by which it is universally known among those amateurs who are not Orchid cultivators generally. Its flowers are white (sometimes rose), marked, more or less, with chocolate blotches, produced on drooping spikes, and when a quantity of plants are grown many varieties are found amongst them, and there are always some in flower, but March, April, and May are the principal months in which they bloom. Very extensive annual importations of tliis lovely Orchid take place, so that plants can always be obtained in quantities at a very reasonable price, some of which may prove to be of considerable vahie, and all arc, more or less, beautiful. Such a compost as that ah-eady mentioned on page 35 should be used, and the plants must not bo allowed to become too dry during the summer or too wet duiing the winter, and must be well shaded from the sun and kept cool and moist during summer, remembering that they do best when the plants are on the stage, but not far from the roof glass. Repot about once in two or three years, and do it at any time when the new gi-owth is starting from near the base, from March until the following September. Winter potting is not recommended, especially in large towns where the light is not good. Newly imported or established plants are from 3s. 6d., 5s. to 7s. 6d. for strong leading bulbs. PARTIAL SP.iAY OF 'ODON TOGLOSSUIVl CRISPUM and floWcRing plant of L/ELIA PURPURATA. ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM StJCCESSFULLY. 79 Odontoglossum CervajSTTESII. From Mexico. A very neat and pretty little Orchid, wliicli flowers in the winter and remains in bloom for a very long time, growing best in a small basket or pan suspended from the roof, and in a compost of peat and sphagnum. It never requires resting, but should never be kept soddened at the root ; and always let the compost become dry before giving water. Good newly imported, or semi-established plants, with three or four leading growths, can be purchased at from os. to 7s. 6d. Odontoglossuji gloriosum. Fruui Colombia. This is a very free growing and prettj^ Orchid, resembling m growth the O. crispum, and this species is also variable, some being exceedingly sweet-scented, while others have but little fragrance. The colour of the flowers range from a ground work of creamy white to pale yellow, all being heavily spotted and barred with rich brown which varies in intensity. The flowers are smaller than those of O. crispum, but the spikes are invariably branched and produce a larger number of flowers ; its time of flowering is early spring, and the plants should have the same treatment as that species. Good plants can be purchased at from 3s. 6d., 5s. to 10s. 6d., newly imported or established. Odontoglossum Pescatorei. From Colombia. This is a favourite Orchid, some of which are flowering almost all the year round, and the blooms remain in perfection for a very long time ; it is valued for its general beauty and usefulness, and bears its delicate wliite blossoms on long thin branching spikes ; the flowers being uxegularly marked with violet coloiu-ed spots, and some, pur- chased as unbloomed plants, are so rich and distinct in the markings as to command high prices. It requires the same treatment as O. crispmu, and good serviceable plants, with one lead, can be pm-chassd at from 3s. Gd., os. to 10s. 6d., newly imported or established. Odoji'TOGLOSSUM triumphaxs. From Ocana. This is a very showy species, flowering in sj^ring, and the flowers are large, of a bright yellow gi'ound colour, heavily marked with chocolate, contrasting conspicuously with the whiter flowers of those already named. There is gi-eat variety also in this species, and those which have broad sepals and petals and well formed flowers are always in demand. This plant requires the same treatment as O. crispum, and good healthy plants, w ith one leading growth, should be piu'chascd at from OS. to 10s. 6d., newly imported or established. So OfeCHlBS : HOW TO GROW THEM StJCCESSFtJlliY. Odontoglossum Eossii. From Mexico. This, although one of the most common, is a very beautiful dwai-f gTOwing species, and is imported in large quantities. The flowers are usually of a white colour, much baiTed and spotted with brown- chocolate, each spike carrying from two to foui- flowers, varying considerably on each plant, some being small, others much larger ; the flowers being well filled up with bright rich colours. Its varieties, niajus and rubescens, are of gi'eater value, the former being larger and fuller, and the latter being a veiy dark rose colour. This Odontoglossum does best when grown in a shallow pan or teakwood basket, not too large, and suspended from the roof of the house about 12 to 18 inches from the glass. It should have the same compost and treatment as O. crispum, but the repotting into pan or basket should be done when new gi-owth commences, seeing that neither are too large for the plant, just leaving a narrow margin bet-svdxt the plant and the outside of the pan or basket. It is a very hardy kind and may be gi'OAvn in the coolest part of the house, and it is a spring-flowering Orchid and must be watered as recommended for O. Cervantesii. Where a number of i^lants of it are grown, it may be had in bloom from January until June. Good sti'ong healthy plants should be i)mchased at from Is. to Is. 6d. per leading bulb. Okcidium iTACKAifTHUM. From Ecuador. This Orchid, when in robust condition, is a strong, stately plant, but, like most of the Cool-house Oiicidiums, the enormous spikes it tlu-ows gi-eatly weaken the plant if allowed to remain on it too long, and when it is seen to suffer in this way it is a good plan, in the following year, to pinch out the flower spikes as soon as they appear, thus giving the plant a chance of recovering its strength. The flower spikes of this Orchid grow to a great length, with short flowering branches springing from the main stem, and it is advisable to train it round two or three neat sticks. The colour is golden yellow, with a small portion of purplish brown, and the treatment of the plant should be the same as that recommended for O. crispum, but it may be kept at the warmest end of the house. Good strong plants can be obtained at from os., 7s. Gd. to 10s. Gd. each, newly imported or established. Oncidium tigeinum. From Mexico. This is ancLlier very strong gi-owing Orchid, having larger and I'ounder shaped pseudobulbs than the preceding species ; it throws branched flower spikes, and the flowers have a beautifid large yellow lip iir liil)L'lluin, the sepals and petals being marked with ricli dark OkCHlDS : HOW TO GROW THEM StfCCESSFtTLLY, Si (From the ORCHID REVIEW.) I — ODONTOGLOSSUM CRIJ^PUM XANTHOTES. 2— ODONTOGLOSSUM x ANDERSONIANUM VAR, 3.— ODONTv.GLOSSUM x ANDERSONIANUM SUPERBUM. 4.- ODONTOGLOSSUM x HORSMANII. ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. 83 brown spots. It usually flowers in October or November, and has a most pleasing perfume, resembling that of the Wild Prinu-ose. The necessary treatment is that recommended for Odontoglossum ciispum, but many prefer growing it in a teakwood basket suspended from the roof ; but it also conforms readily to pot culture, and its varieties often differ much in the size of the flower, also in shape and brilliancy of coloui", and it should be kept at the warmest end of the house. Good strong plants can be pm-chased at from os., 7s. 6d. to 10s. 6d. per leading growth, newly imported or established. Oncidium varicosum. From Brazil. This is another lovely species ; the beautiful labellum of which is a rich yellow colour. It has enormous spikes bearing a large quantity of flowers, and when seen in pei'fection is a most gi-aceful plant. I am, however, unable to recommend it to amateurs so strongly as others, as it sometimes shows deterioration in growth from flowering so freely, still, as it can be pm-chased at a moderate price, a few plants should be grown, it being easy to give the plant a season's rest from blooming by pinching out the flowers for one year, and so restore it to health again. This Orchid may be grown in pans or baskets, in peat and sphagnum moss. I have also done it well by growing it on blocks of wood sus- pended flat-wise fi-om the roof, and if apple, pear, or dogwood blocks are obtainable, they are much to be prefen-ed, especially if newly cut and green, with the bark left on, and the plant securely fastened by means of copper wire and copper tacks. If unable to procure these blocks, the next best are small flat rafts made from teakwood, as these resist decay for a long time. Should, however, decay overtake the block, or slimy matter appear, it will be best to remove the plant carefully and place it on a new one. It requires but little water in Avinter, and when grown on wood there is less chance of its being over watered; care must, however, be taken not to let the plant become dry during the time it is can-ying its flower spikes ; it should be suspended near the glass. It blooms about November, and after flowering should be at rest until the spring, only giving enough water to keep it in a plump condition. If on a block or raft, water may be given freely, but if in compost, then not so often. Good plants can be bought at from 5s. to 7s. 6d., newly imported or senii-established. SOPHROXITIS GRAXDIFLORA. From Brazil. This little gem is a very small-growing plant, requiring a limited space only, and well deserves a place in every Cool Orchid-house ; the flowers are generally solitary, and with never more than two on a footstalk ; colour brilliant scarlet, and varying in size according to the strength of the pseudobulb, the average width of the flower being 84 ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEit SUCCESSFULLY. about an inch. It succeeds best gi-own in small pans or baskets, and suspended near the glass, delighting in shade it should never be exposed to bright sunshine, and tlu'ives best in peat and sphagnum in equal proportions, with a few small lumps of charcoal to keep the compost open and porous. It should be kept moist all the year through, and does best at the warmest end of the house. Its flowering period is from November to March, and good plants, with from four to five leads, can be bought for from 5s. to 10s. each, newly imported or semi- established. Vanda Kimballiana. From Biu-mah. This is a pretty little Orchid, and does well in a Cool house, suspended in baskets where there is plenty of light, having only just sufficient sphagnum moss about the roots to keep it fii-m in position. The sphagnum should be kept moist, and the roots luxmiate in a moist atmosphere, but during the winter very little water is required, only sufficient to keep them i)lump and healthy. It flowers dming October and November, and the flowers are white with bright rose. It is best wintered in a warmer house. Good plants, with foiu- or five leads, can be pm-chased at from 7s. 6d. to 10s. (3d., newly imported or established. Masdevallia Harryana. From Colombia. These are very variable and rich in colour and of close dwarf habit of growth. Good plants, having five or six leads, 5s. to 10s. each, established. See paxje 16, "Masdevallias," for culture, &c. Masdevallia Veitchiana. From Peru. Another pretty showy species, of close dwarf habit of gi'owth, and of a shining yellow colour, beautifully shaded with ptrrple, and of great substance. Its period of flowering is moi'e prolonged owing to its habit of throwing up flower spikes as soon as new growth is matured, whereas, in M. Harryana, although continually making growth, it pushes up all its flowers at one time. Nice plants with from two to five growths, can be bought at from OS. to 10s. each, established. M. Veitchiana gi-andiH(ira is a specially grand variety. Masdevallia ignea. From Colombia. A beautiful bright fiery red coloured kind, with the habit of M. Harryana, but the colours do not vary so much as in that species, being chiefly from red or orange to bright red. Nice plants, with from four to six growtlis, can be purchased at from 5s. to 10s., established. See -page 16, "Masdevallias," for culture, &c. OliCIIIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. So il.vxiLLAKiA GRAXDIFLOKA. From Ecuador. This vej-y pretty Cool-bouse Orchid is not gi'own so largely as it deserves. Its predominating colours are white and yellow, and the flowers are delightfully scented, making a charming button-hole flower. This Orcliid grows freely when potted in sphagnum and peat, wath a little sand and broken charcoal mixed together. The plants should be placed ou the stage and have treatment similar to that advised for the Odontoglossiim crispum. It flowers in the autumn, lasting in bloom for a long time, and under proper treatment soon grows into a large plant. It is advisable to winter this plant at the warmest end of the house, or in an intermediate temperature. Good plants, vt-ith one or more strong leading growths, can be pm-chased at from 7s. 6d. to 10s. 6d. each, established or newly imported. Upidexdrum vitellinum. From Mexico. This lovely Orchid is a native of Mexico, and is found there at very high elevations, where the atmosphere is constantly moist and cool. The beautiful flowers last in perfection for a long time, and are produced on spikes, which on strong well-gi-own plants caiTy upwards of 20 blooms on each, and, when thi-ee or four blooms are wired together with fern, are invaluable as button-hole flowers. The colour is bright orange-scarlet, of an uncommon shade. Large quantities of this Orchid are imported annually, and it is evidently very plentiful in its native habitat, and is of easy culture in pots or suspended in pans or baskets, but I recommend pot cidtm-e. Potting and treatment of this plant should be the same as that recommended for Odoutoglossums, only that the coolest part of the house suits it best, for, like Odontoglossmu Rossii, it -will stand severe cold better than many Cool Orchids, and its usual time of flowering is from May to August. The best time for repotting it is March, not allowing it to become dry afterwards, or the flower spikes, which commence pushing at this time, may be weakened. Keep the jjlants rather dry during the winter or the leaves spot badly. Good strong plants are obtained at about Is. 6d. per leadino- growth, and the majority of the clumps as imported liave an average of four to five leads, so that they are serviceable plants to start with, newly imported or established. DiSA GRAXDIFLOHA {Flower of the Gods. It is also known as the Pride of Table Mountain). From the Cape of Good Hope. This is a tuberous-rooted herbaceous Orchid of great beauty when properly cultivated, and is a native of the Table Mountain, at the Cape of Good Hope, and although requiring a somewhat 86 ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. different treatment to most of the Cool-house Orchids, it is one that I feel constrained to recommend to amateurs, as the treatment required is so simple. It should be potted in chopped fibrous peat, with a liberal supply of coarse silver sand, filling the pots one quarter t>f their depth with crocks, and placing over them a thin layer of sphagnum, making the tubers moderately fii-m in the pots, and leaving tlieir crowns slightly below the sui'face of the soil. The best time for repotting them is in the autumn, immediately after the plants have flowered, when a new growth starts from the side of the old flower spike. Dui-ing the winter months Disas should occupy an airy position in a Cool house, or a place may be found for them with the Odontoglossums on a shelf near the glass, at the coolest end if jpossible, and near to a ventilator. In April they should be removed to a cool frame, having a north aspect, which is, or can be, shaded from the sun's rays, and the plants should be well syi'iuged night and morning and nev(?r allowed to become dry. They should also be examined occasionally for red spider and aphis, which sometimes attack the plants. Under such treatment as I have recommended Disa grandiflora will grow freely and multiply, and the great beauty of its flowers will be seen from August to October. Keep them just moist only during winter or "rot" will occm-. The colour is a rich scarlet, vnth. light markings, and strong plants can be piu'chased at about 5s. each, established or newly imported. Dexdrobium Jamesiaxum. From Moulmein. There are but few Dendrobiums which can be cultivated with much success in a Cool house, but this species is suitable, and when weU grown is a stately Orchid, producing fine trusses of large and beautiful white and yellow blooms. The usual compost I have i-ecommended for Orchids suits it, and it can be grown in small baskets suspended from the roof, near to the glass, and have plenty of water when growing, and during the winter it should never be allowed to become diy enough for the pseudobulbs to shrivel, and removed to an Intermediate house. Strong plants, with one lead, are obtainable for about 5s. to 7s. 6d. each; and, in purchasing this Orchid, it is best to obtain newly imported or semi-established plants, as they start into growth much more satisfactorily than old plants. Cypripedium insigxe. From Nepaul. This old species of the " Lady's Slipper" is a great favourite, and is found, like Coelogjme cristata and Dendrobium nobile, in almost every collection of plants in all gardens of note throughout the country. It should be grown in pots in a compost of fibrous peat, broken charcoal, silver sand and sphagnum moss. The pot should be well OfecSlDS : Sow TO GHOW THEM SUCCESSFtTLLY. CYPRIPEDIUM INSIGNE SANDER/E. (From the ORCHID REVIEW.) ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. 89 drained to half of its depth, using pieces of broken pots and large pieces of charcoal -with a layer of sphagnum over the drainage. In potting, let the compost be well worked in amongst the roots and around them, making it moderately firm, and watering carefully until the plants are established, then they luxuriate — especially in the growing summer season — in a liberal supply of water. It is a very free blooming plant, throwing its flowers in great numbers when the roots are pot-bound, but not so large and of such good quality as when the roots have more freedom, and they do best on the stage, near to the glass, and where there is as much light as possible. The flowers are of a pretty greenish yellow colour with white markings. There are now many vaiieties of Cj-pripedium insigne, such as Chautini, a bold form, and one of the best, and moderately cheap, fully half of the dorsal sepal being white, beautif idly spotted with purple. There is also a handsome clear straw colom'ed variety named Sanderse, but it is exceedingly rare at present. Strong established plants of this variety (insigne), capable of carrying five or six blooms, can be purchased for 7s. 6d. or 10s.; smaller plants can bo bought much cheaper. Cypripedium yillosum. From Moulmein. This is another beautiful Cool-house Orchid, requiring the same treatment as C. insigne ; it is rich in colour, but of peculiar shades of light and dark rich brown combined with soft green and pm-ple, the flower having a beautiful shining appearance as though it had been varnished. It flowers in spring, and good plants, capable of carrj-ing thi'ee or four* flowers, can be purchased for 10s. 6d. CcELOGYisE CRISTATA. From Xepaul. This should be in every collection, however small, for it is exceedingly beautiful, blooms very freely, and is so easily cultivated. The flowers are pure white, with a small yellow blotch on the labellum, and are borne on pendulous racemes, with frequently from six to eight flowers on each when tlio plants are strong. It must, however, be adinitted that it seldom flowers so abundantly until the plant has reached a fair size, and it is no uncommon occurrence to see in Orchid houses large specimen plants smothered with flowers, almost entirely hiding the foliage. Small plants will sometimes flower freely, but not in proportion to the old established clumps, which have many more leading growths to produce flowers. Do not. therefore, disturb the specimens unless it is desii"ible to increase the stock, !is considerable time elapses before growth commences, and activity of the pseudobulbs takes place. This is somewhat surprising, seeing that the plant makes so little root compared with many others. It is consequently better not to repot this Orchid until absolutely necessary, which is, when gi'owing 90 ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. over the side of the pot; -when, however, repotting has become imperative, the division of the plant should be avoided as much as possible, as it thrives best when having a mass of biilbs, and it delights in a liberal supply of water during the growing season, but after the gi-owth "is completed the plants shoidd be kept in a dry position and in the most airy place in the house, and only a Little water given occasionally. A cool, di'y greenhouse, with a temperature as low as 40 degrees at night, would suit it dui-ing winter. If too much water is given just before the buds appear, the flower spikes are apt to turn black and rot off. The proper compost for this Orchid is sphagnvmi and peat in equal proportions, and the plants flower in March and April. Manm-e water may be applied during the gi-owing season, but in a weak form. Good plants, capable of bearing from foiu- to eight spikes, can be piu'chased at from 5s. to 10s. each, and large specimens can sometimes be met with at very moderate prices ; established. L^LIA PR^STAXS. From Brazil. {Sy)i. Cattleya marginata.) This is almost the only Lselia that will grow well in company with Odontoglossums ; it is a dwarf-growing species and should be grown in baskets in the usual compost of peat and sphagnum, and suspended as near the glass as possible where there is plenty of light and in the warmest position. It should be kept moist when growing, but after flowering but little water is needed dm-ing the winter; its blooming time is usually October. Like other members of this genus it is subject to mealy scale on the rhizomes and pseudobulbs, but this can be kept down by occasionally going over the plants and cleaning it off with a small brush, taking care not to bruise the dormant eyes. The flowers are of a rosy carmine coloiu", and may be mistaken, as in fact it sometimes is, for Lselia pumila Dayana, but L. prsestans has the boldest flowers, and the lip is deeper in coloiu* and is margined with a white tint. I recommend newly imported or semi-established plants being obtained, as old established plants are not so satisfactory, and it is best to give it a little more warmth during the winter. The price of plants varies from 5s. to 10s., with, from three to five good leads. Anguloa Clowesii. From Venezuela. Tliis is a noble free gi-owing Orchid, and peculiarly interesting on account of the bold beautiful yellow and highly perfumed cup-shaped flower, the labellum of which moves up and down in a rather eccentric manner when the flowers are touched, being delicately comiected by a thread-like ligament, and is kno\vn as the Cradle, also the Tulip Orchid. This plant grows best in a pot, and the compost should consist of two parts of peat, not necessarily very fibrous, to one of ORCHIDS : sow TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. 91 sphagnum; it flowers in May or June, and the plant commences its gi'owth simultaneously with its flowering. Should it be necessary to repot the plant, it must be done when the flower spikes begin to appear, generally in the early part of March, for if left until they are out of bloom both the new gi-owth and the new roots are very far advanced, rendering repotting at that stage both difficult and dangerous. Diu-ing the growing season water may be given rather freely, but when a new pseudobulb has completed its growth it shotdd have a good period of rest, giving but little water dui-ing the winter, and the plant should occupy a position on the stage near to the glass. It is best to give this plant more warmth during the "nonter if possible. Strong plants may be purchased at from 10s. to 20s. each, established or semi-established. Ada aurantiaca. From Ocana. This Orchid is recommended on account of its beautiful orange coloured flowers, many of which are produced on each spike ; a few plants in flower being very efi'ective when arranged with other Orchids. It flowers during the early spring months, and requires the same treatment as the Odontoglossums, though probably a httle less water is required during the summer months, and it should occupy the warmest end of the house, as its leaves become spotted on the under surface if the temperature falls very low, and this should be avoided if possible, as such a check often produces disease, seriously injuiing and occasionally causing the loss of the plant. Good plants, which under generous treatment soon gi-ow into good specimens, can be purchased at from 5s. to 10s. 6d. per two or three leads. TWENTY-FOUR ORCHIDS FOR AN AMATEUR'S INTERMEDIATE HOUSE. All Cheap, Beautiful, and Easily Grown. Cattleya Dowiaxa aurea. From Antioquia. This is the most beautiful of all the Cattleyas, having rich golden- yellow flowers, with lovely purplish crimson veined markings on the lip — a charming and attractive combination of colours. It requu-es a little more warmth than most of the other species, but the beauty of the flower amply repays a little extra trouble; and, if available, a position near the glass and immediately over the end where the hot- water pipes enter the house, would suit it admirably during the growing as well as the resting season. This grand Orchid should be 92 ORCHIDS : HOW TO GKOW THEM SL'CCKSSFULLY. repotted into pots or baskets, in fibrous peat and sphagnum, about March or April, as it then commences to grow and push out new roots. "Water moderately at first. All through the summer months, while the new pseudobulbs are in course of formation, the plant should not be allowed to suffer from di-ought, but watered when the compost assumes a whitish appearance. When the new growths have reached their normal size, the bloom buds begin to form and push by degrees froui the sheath, and open during the months of September and October. But, like some others, this Orchid will occasionally push up its flowers fi'om the apex of the pseudobulb without the presence of the sheath ; whilst, on the other hand, a sheath may be formed and a flower fail to come. But these are exceptions and not the rule. It sonietimes happens that autumn- flowering Cattleyas, instead of pushing up their flowei-s, start a young growth from the base of the newly-formed jjseudobulb, and in such a case I always pinch off the new growth to induce tbe flower to form and open in due course. If, instead, the young gi'owth is allowed to reniain, it rarely develops a full-sized, strong pseudobulb, and the autumn is far advanced before the growth is even matured, and all hope of seeing the bloom grow and expand may be abandoned. After flowering very little water is required, only enough to ke(!p the bulbs and leives healthy and j^lump ; probably once a week will be sufficient, always taking care that tbe plant is in a warm and dry position during winter. When the flower spikes have been cut, the sheath should be entirely removed by pulling them clean away from the pseudobulb. and the spikes also cut out close to the ])seudobulb, and all danger of damping or decaying will thus be arrested. Stnmg plants, iK^wly impoi'ted or establislicd. at fioiii lOs. to 20s. Ca'J'TLKYA Gaskelltaxa. Fnim Venezuela. This is a lali; summer blooming species, producing its flowers during the niontli of August and the early part of September, and should be potted in March, just as they commence making their growth, or may be left until after tlu; plants have flowered. Fibrous peat and spluiginim in equal jiroportions, with a little broken charcoal mixed in suits this and all other Cattleyas, and the pots should be well draincid half their depth, placing large crocks at the bottom, and smaller with some charcoal over them. Cattleyas should be jiotted moderately firm, bringing the new compost well to the base of the pseudobulb, and, when potting is com})Ieted, sliould any portion sway, steady it by tying the ])seudobulbs to neat sticks, it being so necessary to the roots when pushing to take a firm grip of the compost, which is prevented if the plant is unstable. There are numerous vai'icties of C. Gaskelliana, varying more or less in shades of colour and markings, light tinted forms predominating, so that the darker varieties are in ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. 95 greater demand ; also those which are almost wlute, but very few pure wliite forms have yet ajjpeared. These can all be gi'own in j)ots or baskets, and should hava. a position where there is much hght, but shaded from the hot sun. This is a somewhat plentiful species, and good strong plants can be bought for 2s. 6d. per leading growth, so that plants suitable for a 32-size pot with three or four leads may be bought for about 10s. 6d. Watering should be attended to as recom- mended for C. Dowiana aui-ea, and a good supply given when the plant is gi'owing, but only sparingly when at rest. Newly imported or established. Cattleya Warscewiczii. From Antioquia. {Spi. C. gigas.) This is another superb summer- flowering species, blooming imme- diately the pseudobulb is formed, and some of its varieties, known as Sanderiana, Imperialis, Burfordiensis, &c., have blooms of a great size and brilliancy of colour, but, if recently imported, these varieties cannot be determined until they have bloomed. Imported plants of this splendid Orchid are sometimes sold by auction under the name of C. Sanderiana, but, as previously stated, their identity cannot be established until they are in flower. There are varieties of this species which are naturally shy bloomers whilst others flower very freely, but whether shy blooming or otherwise they flower much more abundantly if gi-owii near the glass, and almost fully exposed to the sun's rays, only shading them when the sun is intensely hot and bright. This species can be grown in pots or baskets, in peat and sphagnum, and are best repotted either in March, just as they commence growing, or in tlie summer, immediately after flowering. I prefer summer potting, as then the new pseudobulbs push out a number of fresh roots which continue gi-owing more or less tlu'ough the winter, and the plants at this stage become quickly re-established in the new compost. There is some danger of this species starting into gi'owth again, more especially if the pseudobulbs do not bloom, and it is not always possible to prevent this, but it can generally be avoided by reducing the amount of water and giving the plant an airy and dry position throughout the remaining summer — the coolest in the house, near to a ventilator, if possible, or it may be placed in an early peach-house, or early vinery, after the fruit has ripened, and the trees are at rest — and restored to their proper quarters by the end of October. There they should remain dormant until March, giving them very little water, and even when they start into growth in the spring water should be given very sparingly until the new growth is about two inches long, but after that more freely, remembering that if too much water is applied at the early stage of growth the chances of the plant flowering freely are greatly reduced. The colour- of this species is of a beautiful 96 OECUIDS : HOW to grow them SL'CCESSFULLY. rose tint varying in intensity, the lip is very handsome, being mucli darker, with a large yellowish blotch in the throat. Good plants can be obtained, with one oj- two leading growths, at from 5s. to 10s. 6d. each, newly imported or established. Cattleya labiata. From Brazdl. This, also, is a beautiful and useful species and a very free bloomer, opening its lovely blossoms dui'ing October and November. It is a very old introduction, haA-ing been broiight into this country in ISIS, but until within the last iive years it Avas rarely seen in flower, and this is accounted for by the original importations being so very small. For many years no plants of this species reached this country until when recently re-discovered and inti"oduced in very large quantities; while, owing to its scarcity previously, it is looked upon as a valuable addition to this grand labiata section of Cattleyas. There is great variety amongst them — some being small and deficient in coloui"ing, the flowers of others being as large as C. Warscewiczii and dark mauve in colour, with the hp of a rich piu-ple tint. Strong plants of this species may be piu-chased at from 5s. to 10s. 6d. each, vnih from one to three leading gi'owths — plants which four years since would have cost from £40 to £50. It is best gi-o-ma in pots or baskets, and occupjnng a position where there is plenty of light. Its treatment should be the same as that advised for C. Gaskelliana. Newly imported or established. Cattle YA Me>-delii. From New Granada. Another A-ariable family of gi'eat beauty, having verj"^ large, hand- some, and often exceedingly dehcate tinted blooms, the sepals and petals frequently being of a light pink shade of colour, often approaching to white. It flowers dui-ing April or May, and does best when gi'own in peat and sphagnum, either in pots or baskets, in a light position near the glass, and should be potted immediately after flowering only. For general culture and treatment, see that recom- mended for C. Gaskelliana. Good plants can be obtained at from 5s. to 10s. each, newly unported or established. Cattleya Mossiae. From Venezuela. This, also, is a very beautiful Orchid, and richly deserves a place in every collection, the labellum or Up is so richly and beautifully coloured, while the plant is of easy cultiu'e and blooms very freely from April to the end of June. It should be potted immediately after flowering into pots or baskets, using peat and sphagnum, watering freely diu-ing growth. It is advisable to keep it moderately dry whilst at rest ; but, like others, must not become thoroughlj' lii-y when in flower or when it is gi-owing. Good plants, with from one to four breaks, can be pm-chased at from 3s. (id. to 10s. 6d. each. As with ORcnips ; now to grow tiiem successfully. 97 ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEil SUCCESSFULLY. 99 other species of Cattleyas, there are several varieties, many of them distinct and richly deserving a place in every good collection, especially such as C. Mossiae Wagnen. pm-e white ^dth an orange blotch in the throat ; C. Mossiae Eeinecldana, with pure white sepals and petals, and richly marked lip. These Cattleyas should occupy a position near the glass, and be potted only immediately after flowering. For general treatment, see C. Gaskelliana. Newly imported or established. Cattleya Triaxae. From New Granada. This species is one of the earliest to flower, commencing in January and continuing through February and March. The good varieties of this species are equal in size and beauty to any of the C. labiata section; but there are a large portion of the varieties with smaller blooms, and although all are very pretty and their colours varied, from delicate pink to rich dark rose, they are not equal in size and fonn to others of the labiata section. There are also several named varieties of this species, such as C. Trianae alba, with pure white sepals and petals with yellow on the lip, which is an expensive variety ; but plants are sold under this name which are not pure white but have a faint tint of pink colour, this colouring matter varjdng according to the season, sometimes almost pure in coloiu', at other times the rose colour is more noticeable, and occasionally more like a variety sold under the name of Cattleya Trianae delicata. As this species comes early into flower, it also commences making new growth, and matures sooner than C. Mossiae and C. Mendelii, and Hke C. Warscewiczii {syn. gigas), it is best to be watchful, to prevent a second gi-owth. Pot after flowering only. For other treatment, resting, &c., refer to C. Gaskelliana, page 92. Good plants of this species can be pui-chased at from 5s. to 10s. 6d. for plants with from one to three strong leads, newly imported or established. Cattleya Schr6eder.e. From New Granada. I have ah-eady given a long list of varieties of the section C. labiata, but cannot omit mention of this beautiful kind, which is distinguished from the other species on account of the flo%\'ers being more constant in form and colour, and although varj-ing in hue to some extent, scarcely ever assume the wide differences in colour and form so characteristic of the other species. The flowers are of a beautiful and uniform delicate rosy blush tint with a large blotch of orange-yellow in the throat; a lovely and chaste varietj', and should be included in every collection. In growth it much resembles C. Trianae, and can be grown in pots or baskets, having the same treatment as recommended for that species. Good plants can be purchased for from os. to 10s., with from one to three strong flowering leads. Newly imported or established. lUO ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. Cattleya Loudigesii. From Brazil. A very pretty species, and one which well deserves a place in all collections. In habit it differs from the foregoing, but requu-es exactly the same treatment, and it may be grown in either pot or basket, but owing to the pseudobulbs gi'owing longer than others, it is most adapted to pot cultui-e. It should be repotted in early spring, just as the new growth and roots push forth. It flowers from August to October, lasting a long while in perfection, the spikes bearing flowei's according to the strength of the plant, and are of a rose colour-, with a small blotch of hght yellow on the lip. A variety known as C. Harrisonise is very similar to this species, the flowers being darker in colour with the blotch on the lip of an orange colour. Peat and sphagnum is the best compost in which to pot this plant, and as to general treatment, see that recommended for C. Gaskelliana, giving it a position where it can have plenty of light. Good plants of this species should be bought for about 5s. for one or two strong leading growths. Newly imi^orted or established. Cattleya oitrina. From Mexico. This is totally unlike any other species of Cattleya in gi'owth and habit, and is one of the ver}' few Orchids which I recommend for block culture because of its habit of growing downwards, the pseudobulbs, fohage and flowers always di'ooping towai-ds the ground. If the plants when first received from the importer were placed on a block or in a pan in an upright position — which to an iuexj)erieuced person amongst Orchids may be thought to be its natui'al one^-the first new growths formed would turn and grow in an opposite direction. This Orchid appears to be most plentifid in its native liabitat, as it is imported in large quantities, and this is a very fortunate circumstance, for without new supplies it wouLl in a few years become very scarce, as it is one of those kinds which deteriorate aft«r about the thii-d year. Some growers cultivate it better than others, and keep it in good condition a longer time, but I have never heai-d of any one hitting upon the exact treatment that would keep the plants in a permanently flourishing condition and give an increase in size. It is a handsome Orchid, well worth growing and renewing the stock occasionally. Suspend it in a light position and water when dry by dipping the block and plant into water for a few moments, once every evening if the weather is very diy or hot, and keep at the warmest end of the house in winter time. The flower is of a beautifid bright yellow colour, deliciously fragrant, and the plant always grows actively during the winter, flowering from April to June, and when in flower should be watered without immersion or the flowers will at once decay. Nice little clumps range from 2s. 6d. to 10s. fJd., for from one to tlu'ee leading growths. Newly imported in spring. orchids: how to grow thkm srccEssFur-LY. lol CAITLEYA MENDElII, A GOOD SPECIMEN (From the ORCHID REVIEW. J ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM! SUCCESSFULLY. 103 CCELOGYNE Massangeana. From the East Indies. This is a free growing Orchid aiid very floriferous when the plants are strong, producing its spikes freely. It should be grown in peat and sphagnum, and is best suited for a basket plant, as the flowers are borne on long pendulous spikes from 12 to 24 inches long, sometimes bearing as many as twenty-four flowers on one spike, and when these are drooping over the side of the basket the plant has a very pleasing appearance, although void of any brilliancy of colour — light yellow and brown predominating. This Orchid should have liberal supplies of water when actively growing, and when inactive it should be kept moderately dry, but never dry enough to cause the pseudobulbs to shiivel. Good plants should be pui-chased at from 5s. to 7s. 6d. per strong leading growth. Established. Cymbidium eburxeum. From the East Indies. Another free growing Orchid, and, like the last named, it soon grows into a large specimen when the surrounding conditions are favourable, and when they become large plants they flower much more freely than when small. It is best grown in pots, in very fibrous loam and lumpy but not necessarily very fibrous peat in equal proportions, intermixed with sharp silver or river sand and a little finely broken charcoal to keep the soil sweet and porous. The pots should be a thii'd full of di-ainage, and not too small, for if the large fleshy roots of this species are too cramped it is impossible to work the soil down between them, and they must be made moderately firm, otherwise the roots will be crowded into the pots in a mass with no soil worked in between them, but only about them, in which case they invariably rot. The sm-face of the soil should not be above or even level with the rim of the pot, as is recommended for epiphytal Orchids, or the water runs oT instead of into the plant. There should at least be half an inch of space below the rim to receive water. The flowers are borne singly or in pairs, and are a beautiful pure white, with a slight streak of yellow on the lip, and are very sweet scented. It should be watered only when diy, like an ordinary plant, and will succeed best in a cool, shady part of the house, where, if due attention is given to the watering and potting, it soon gi-ows into a good specimen plant, and the stronger the gi'owth the more fi-eely it flowers. Good plants, capable of producing from three or ioni flowers, can be purchased at from 10s. to 20s. Established. Cypripedium X Harrisianum. Garden Hybrid. A very free giowang and floriferous Lady's SUpper, which shoxdd be potted as recommended for Cypripediums (see page 35), and given a place in a somewhat shady and moist part of the house. It delights in 104 orchids: how to geow them: successfully. plenty of water at the root dming the sutamer, but during the winter months it must have only a moderate supply, yet never allowing it to become too dry. In the flower there is a mixture of rather dark colours, claret and dark purple predominating, and it is a hybrid between C. villosum and C. barbatum, the flowers having the glossy surface found in C. villosum, and is in flower during the summer months. Sti'ong plants should be bought at from os. to 7s. 6d., capable of bearing one or two flowers. Cypripedium: Spiceriajn'UM. From Assam. This, also, is a very pretty species, and was, untU. recently, very rare and expensive, but lately, owing to large importations coming to hand, it can be purchased at a moderate price. It requii'es exactly the same treatment as the foregoing Cj'pripedium, and. like that species, cannot bear strong sunshine. The beauty of the flower is chiefly in the dorsal sepal, which is for the most part white, with a pui-ple stripe running through the centre, the petals of a greenish colour, and the lip or pouch brownish purple, and it flowers from October to December. Some cultivators habitually grow this species in a very cold place, but I have found it to do best in the Intermediate house. It is not, perhaps, such a free gi'ower as some, and does not grow into large specimens so rapidly, but, with proper attention, is not at all difiicult to cultivate. Good sei-\aceable plants shovdd be purchased at from 5s. to 10s., capable of bearing two or three flowers. Established. Odoxtoglossum citrosmum. From Mexico. {Syit. pendulum.) This is a beautiful Orchid and should be grown by evorj-one, its cultivation being so easy when rightly managed. It should be gi-own in pans or baskets, in one part sphagnum and two parts lumpy peat, and made secure from shaking about until it has rooted firmly, and the pans or baskets suspended from the roof. This Orchid suffers much from being disturbed, therefore it should not be shifted into larger pans or baskets more than once in three or four years, supposing the leading pseudobulbs are not growing over the side. After it has been shifted into a larger sized pan or basket, it should be kept in a shaded place until re-established to some extent, and during its growing season in summer it should be kept moist at the roots until its gi-owth is completed (and this will be about October), after this it should be gi-aduaUy di-ied ott' by giving a lesser supply of water, until about the end of November, keeping it very dry during the remaining part of the winter in order to ensure; flower spikes, which grow from the centre of the young growth in March and April. If the jilant is kept moist from November until March, i^robably no flower spikes wiU appear. It should be allowed to get dust dry before giving it water, even if the Orchids : how to grow them successfully. 105 pseudobiilbs shrivel a little, as tbis will do no barm providing excessive shrivelling is avoided. It is difiicult to state exactly bow often to water this Orchid when resting as so much depends upon the state of the weather, sometimes once a week will suffice, at other times once a fortnight. It should be grown at the coolest end of the bouse and will enjoy as much light as Cattleyas generally require, too much direct sunlight upon the plants being most fatal to them. Supposing the new pseudobulbs to be of a fair average size the plant may reasonably be expected to flower with such treatment, and the spikes will, as before stated, appear from the centre of the young growth about April, and these should be protected from slugs or woodlice by wrapping a piece of cotton wool round the gi-owth, after the spike has appeared the plant may gi-adually receive a larger supply of water ; should the spikes not appear, however, by the end of April, and the tips of the new leaves become visible, with the new growths extending, it shows that in all probability there will be no flowers that season, and the plant may then be watered and grown on accordingly for another year. The flower spikes should not be tied in an upright position to sticks, but allowed to take their own course and drooping downwards ; the colour is white, more or less tinged A^tb rose, and varieties frequently produce blooms with the lip of a beautiful dark rose colom-. Good plants of this species should be purchased at from 3s. 6d., 5s. to 7s. 6d. per loading bulb for newly imported or established plants. Dexdrobium TiiYRSiFLORUjr. From Moulmein. There are not many of the familj' of Dendi-obes which can be said to grow thoroughly well in an intermediate temperatm-e, this however is one of the exceptions, but, coming as it does from a hot climate, it should be placed at the warmest part of the Intermediate house. It is generally gi'own in pots, and can also be cultivated in baskets, but is an Orchid which does not like disturbance at the root, still repotting becomes necessary sometimes, it being safer to eiT on the side of repotting too often than to allow the roots to perish in decomposed material. It should be potted in good fibrous peat and sphagnum in equal proportions, half filling the pot with drainage, potting moderately firm but not to cover the base of the pseudobidb, yet bringing the compost well Tip to the base, so that the young roots enter the compost when immediately pushing into growth. When repotting, all dead or decaying mattcn- should be removed from the roots, and the live roots carefully handled and evenly distributed in tlie new pot. This operation should take place in spring, directly the plants have finished blooming, which is generally in April, after which time the plant sliould be encom-aged as much as possible to make new growth by being placed in a shady position and very gently damped 106 ORCHIDS : now to gkow them successfully. over with a syiinge once a day. The new compost must be kept just moist only, and on no account should it become saturated until the summer is further advanced and active growth sets in. It is always an important point in repotting Orchids to use a few neat sticks firmly fixed into the crocks, to wliich some of the pseudobulbs can be tied, in order to make the entire plant secure and not shake about in handling the pot, or it does not readily get re-established. This Dendi'obe does not last long in flower, but the grower is amply compensated by the gi'eat beauty of the flowers, which are white and yellow, and borne on drooping racemes. When in a growing state this plant requires a reasonable amount of water, and as it is an evergreen kind it does not requii-e so much rest as most of the other kinds of Dendrobiums during winter, and when kept in a dry state it shoidd never be allowed to shrivel on any account, and kept at the warmest end of the house and well up to the light. Yellow thrip are sometimes troublesome on this sjiecies, but may be kept down by sprinkling or puflfing tobacco powder down the new growths and over the foliage, and should they make too much headway, then resort to fumigation also. Although this species gz'ows well in this house, it also does well in a Warm house. Good established plants of this Orchid should be pin-chased for about 5s. per leading growth, but I recommend purchasing newly imported plants which have arrived in the spring, such plants are hkely to give much gi'eater satisfaction, and they should then be piu-cliaseable in extra strong pieces at from 3s. 6d. to 5s. per leading gi-owth. IjMLIA anceps. From Mexico. This is a very lovely and easily cultivated Orchid which comes into flower in November and December, producing freely flowers of a charming rose colour', with the labellum richly coloured and much darker than the sejjals and petals — in short, the colour varies from Kght rose to very dark rosy crimson, and the most valuable of the varieties, excluding the white, are those which are very dark in colour. This Orchid may be grown in pots on the stage or in baskets suspended from the roof, and they should be repotted during the month of March, using peat and si)hagnum in equal proportions, first half fUling the pot with drainage and keeping the compost moist, but not too wet, for about five or six weeks afterwards, when they can be watered more freely ; in fact, well soaked by dipping in the tank, especially when the sphagnum has a whitish appearance. When the growth is finished in the autumn, watering may be again reduced, but the plants must not be allowed to suffer from drought until they have finished flowci-ing, then only enough water is required, until March, to prevent shrivelling. If it is possible to give a small portion of the house full sunlight by not shading it, but not allowing other plants to suffer, this Orchid DENDROBIUM THYRSIFLORUM. ORCHIBS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. 109 really thrives better if fully exposed to the sun \\'itli plfiity of air than it does when too much shaded, and it also fl(jwers more fieely. Plants may be purchased either established or newly imported, but I prefer the latter, alwaj'^s selecting those masses which have good foliage, for a loss of leaves means a proportionate loss of strength, which materially affects the vigour of the plant when making new gi'owth. When repotting newly imported plants a large portion of their roots should be rather severely cut away — of coui-se using discretion in doing so — as they only take space which good compost should occupy, and in a short time would become a mass of wet and cold decomposed matter. Plants may be purchased for about 3s. per leading growth, or about 10s. for masses having probably five or six leads. L.«LIA AUTUMXAiis. From Mexico. This is another very pretty species and of very simple culture, but it has a reputation for deteriorating, which is certain to follow if wTongly cultivated, whereas, if hardened at the projaer season, it will last in good condition as long as any other Orchid and flower as freely. It flowers in November and December, is very similar in habit and general requirements to LseUa anceps, and if treated in the same way will take no harm. I would advise, however, that it be always grown in a hanging basket near the glass, giving the plant the full benefit of the bright sunshine whenever possible. After the flowering an absolute rest should be given, but not so as to cause shi'ivelling, and at that period it is capable of withstanding a low degi'ee of temperature. Plants should be purchased at about the same price as quoted for L. anceps, but good newly imported plants with good foliage are best. L.ELIA PURPURATA. From St. Catherina. This is a noble growing and fine Orchid, in appearance very much like a Cattleya, indeed, there is so little difference between Cattleyas and Lselias as to sometimes cause surprise that they are not included in one group. There is, however, a botanical distinction, consisting of the Cattleya having four pollen masses, while the La?lia has eight. This species (L. jiui-purata) is best grown in pots half filled with drainage, and potted in peat and sphagnum in equal proportions, and after being repotted it is apt to shrivel a little, but with just ordinary care it soon becomes ic-established and gi'ows very freely. No better place can be found for tliis plant than on the stage and well up to the light, watering and ti-eating exactly the same as a Cattleya. It differs slightly, however, inasmuch as it is rarely ever at rest, growing during winter as well as in summer, and has therefore no definite resting season. Its time of flowering is May or June, and the varieties vary very much in colouring, some being particularly dark and others almost a pure white, all being well worth growing. 110 ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. This species may be pru-chased either as newly imported or established plants, but a nice healthy established plant is perhaps to be preferred, as, unless Lselia purpurata is imported in first-rate condition, a year or two must elapse before strong flowering gi-owths can be made. On the other hand, newly imported plants can be pui-chased at a much cheaper rate. Healthy established pieces sliould be obtained for from 5s. to 7s. 6d. per strong healthy growth, whilst newly imported pieces can usually be bought for 3s. to os. per leading growth. Lycaste Skinneri. From Guatemala. A very lovely winter-flowering Orchid, the flowers of which are of large size, of a thick wax-like tendency, and are borne on erect foot- stalks. There is considerable variation in the colouring, the light or delicate forms being mostly admii-ed, the sepals and petals of which are of a beautiful blush white. Lycaste Skinneri alba is a pure white variety and very handsome, and much more expensive on account of its rarity. L. Skinneri should be gi-own in pots half filled with drainage, using peat and sphagnum in about equal parts, and although I do not recommend a bad quality peat to be used, still it need not be of the best fibrous quality for this species. The plants should be repotted in early spring, only doing this when really necessary, say once in two or three years. Some growers use a little fibrous loam in the compost, which may do good, but, generally speaking, I do not regard it as necessary, success in cultivation depending in a much larger degree — as with all other Orchids — upon temperature, atmosphere, watering, and general attention. I have found that every care nuist be exercised in watering this species, and it is much safer to give too little than too much moisture, even when the plant is in active gi-owth dm-ing the summer watering must be very carefuUy done so as not to get the compost soddened, which causes spot to appear both in the leaves and pscudobulbs, and this is generally known as disease. Established plants, if healthy, of this species may be purchased, but those which prove most satisfactory are newly imported or semi- established plants, as they always gi-ow more freely. The flowers appear from the base of the newly made pseudobulb during the autumn or early winter months, according to the health or strength of the plant. This is a deciduous species, losing its leaves in early spring. Plants may be purchased from about 3s. to 5s. per leading growth. MiLTONIA VEXILLARIA. From Autioqua. {Syn. Odontoglossum vexillarium.) This, when well grown, is one of the most showj' and beautiful of Orchids, and if cultivated under proper conditions makes rapid growth ; with unsuitable treatment it presents a very tmsatisfactory appearance. orchids: how to grow them successfully. hi In the Intermediate house, however, it grows without difficulty, and it should be repotted after floweiing, generally about the end of May, and once in two years is often enough for doing so, taking care not to over pot. After repotting, water very carefully, keeping the compost just moist and the plants a little more shaded for five or six weeks, after which water may be applied with greater freedom ; although, as in the case of Lycaste Skinneri, it is always best to have the plant kept in too di-y a condition rather than too wet, especially during winter, and should there be any doubt as to the plant wanting water, wait a day or so until quite sure on this point. The points of the leaves of this species have a peculiar habit of decaying, especially under wi'ong treatment, either from being too wet at the roots or from too cold a temperature, and this indication commences at the apex by the formation of a watery spot, which should be pierced with the point of a knife, or cut clean away, otherwise it extends in a downward direction. The yellow thrip is a natiu-al enemy to this plant, and if allowed to ravage unimpeded soon work gi'eat destruction, but they are easily exterminated by dusting tobacco powder dowTi the axils of the new growth. It thi-ives best when gi'own in pots, which should be placed on the stage at the warm end of the Intermediate house and well up to the light, or it may also be suspended in a light and aiiy position, but not in a direct di-aught from the ventilator, but where there is a free cii'culation of pui-e air, with treatment as before recommended, then free gi'owth is generally assm-ed to this beautiful Orchid. The best potting material is sphagnum moss and fibrous peat, in equal proportions, ^\'ith a small quantity of small broken knobs of charcoal mixed in. A variety named "rubellum" has small flowers and blooms at .a later date, but is by no means so pretty as the original species, M. vexilluria, which also vaiies in form and colour in different plants ; the almost white, as well as the darkest and richest coloiu-ed, being the most valued. A little weak manure water is beneficial. This plant is best purchased in an established state, as it is found difficult to import it in good condition, and two years are generally required to get such plants established. Good strong plants can be purchased at fi-om 5s. to 7s. 6d. per leading gi'owth. SoBRALIA MACRANTHA. From Guatemala. Tliis is a very handsome free gro\ving species, and a healthy plant, properly treated, soon grows into a large specimen, producing a number of flowers. It is best grown in a pot, which should be di-ained with rough crocks to one-tliird of its depth, and over this a tliin laj-er of sphagnum, and good strong turfy loam, adding a little coarse sand and broken charcoal, to ensure a porous compost and drainage. It should be potted as recommended for Cymbidium eburneum, leaving 112 orchids: how to grow them SUCCESSFtlLLY. the surface of the soil one inch below the level of the pot to provide for a thorouijh watering, and, in potting, the compost should be made moderately linn. This plant is always in a growing state, therefore, has no resting season, and simply requires a good watering when it becomes dry, as with an ordinary greenhouse plant. It should be kept in the coolest part of the house, well up to the light when it can receive a good supply of air. The Sobralia flowers diu-ing May and June. Each stem, which is rather tall .growing, bearing in succession from five to eight beautiful large rosy piu-ple-tiuted flowers, and the plant does not need repotting until the pot becomes overcrowded with roots, then it should be tiu*ned out and all the old crocks removed, together with as much of the soil as can convenientlj'' be taken away without disturbing the roots, and then repotted into a larger pot, and when the plant is re-established a little weak manure water is beneficial. Established plants of this species should be purchased at from 10s. to 21s. for two or three flowering stems, although plants of this size may not be plentiful. Thuxia Marshalliaxa. From the East Indies. This is another handsome fi-ee growing Orchid, bearing a large truss of beautiful white and yellow flowers at the top of the new pseudobulbs in June and July. This sjjecies has a very short season of gi'o^vth, and should 1)0 cultivated in pots half filled with di'ainage and potted in a mixture of peat, loam, and silver sand, and the compost left quite half an inch below the rim of the pot. The proper time for repotting the plant is tlie beginning of March, but very little water ^\•ill be needed until the new growths are about six inclies liigli. Afterwards watering only moderately, in order to keep the pseudobulbs dwarf and to ensm-e free blooming. They are best gi-own in small pots. I always place four bulbs in a 32-sized pot, making each one firm with a stick, for the roots which have decayed are trimmed off close, so that there is nothiTig to hold the bidbs firm without a little assistance, and, after potting, the plants should be kept well up to the light and in the full blaze of the sun, as recommended for Ltelia autunmalis. By the beginning of July the plant will most probably have finished flowering, and from then imtil March it possesses no great beauty, but water should not be discontinued mitil November, after which time it may be given once or twice in three or four weeks until March. Sometimes the growths, when they do not produce flowers, continue growing to four or five feet in lengtli, and when well grown the plant increases in size very rapidly. Ked spidtu- is most troublesome to this plant, and directly it can be detected the gi-(iwths should be sponged with soapy water. A fail" average pric(! for strong floweiing-sized bulbs is about 3s. to OS. each. orchids: how to grow them successfully. 113 Zygopetalum: Mackayi, var. intermedium. From Brazil. This is a winter-blooming species, generally making a good display about Christinas. It is a strong growing plant when in good health, producing spikes about two feet in length bearing six to eight flowers, the sepals and petals of which are of a greenish colour, spotted with brown, the lip being white, exquisitely pencilled with blue lines. The plant should be repotted during March, and the thick fleshy roots delight in a compost of peat and coarse river sand and broken charcoal, and a little fibrous loam may also be added. The pot should be half filled with good drainage with a layer of moss on the top of it, and the plant should receive water in moderation, never allowing it to be continually satui'ated or to become too diy. The time when it should be kept moderately dry is the short period after flowering until active growth sets in. In potting keep the soil below the level of the rim and press down moderately firm, afterwards standing the plants on the stage of the house. Good establislied plants should be purchased for about 10s. per strong leading bulb, and newly imported from os. to 7s. 6d. TWENTY-FOUR OECHIDS EECOMMEXDED FOR A WARM, STOVE, OR EA8T INDIA HOUSE. AiiRlDES ODORATUM. From the East Indies. This is an old and familiar Orchid, yet one of the best in cultivation, and, like all of this species, is evergi-een and has no pseudobulbs. The flower spikes proceed from the stem at the axils of the leaves, bearing a large number of wax-like flowers in the form of a fox's brush (one of this family, A. FieldingI, being termed the Fox's Biiish Orchid), looking very delicate and graceful, and has a very jjleasing fragi'ance. This plant is easilj' cultivated in a Warm house with a moist tempera- ture, these being essential requirements for its successful cultivation. I prefer pot culture for it, and supporting the growth in an upright position, although I have seen it well gi-own in baskets, letting the growth take its own course and ramble where it pleased. The drainage lu)le in th(! bottom of the pot should be t-ularged and the pot filled to within three inches of the rim %vith broken pots and charcoal, into which the stems of the plants should be placed, securing them in an upright position with sticks. All roots which were previously beneath the surf ace .should be carefully laid out beneath or upon the crocks, covering with sphagnum to the depth of about three inches, pressing it down firmly, and shearing off the rough ends of the moss with a pair of scissors, any jerial roots remaining as before, but all that can conveniently be bent down to the smface of the moss should be pegged 114 OliCHIJJS: HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. there by means of small pegs or sticks, so that they may enter the moss of then- own accord, for if placed beneath the sui-face after pre\aously being exposed to the air they generally die. It is not necessary to remove the whole of the old sphagnum every year, but it is well to pick out some of the old and sm-face with new once a year, and it should be kept well watered during summer, but not so much given at the roots in winter, yet never allowed to get too dry. This Orchid exists chiefly on the atmosphere, and especially during its time of flowering on no account should it suffer from drought, or an unnecessary loss of foliage will occiu-. It should be gi'own on a stage on the north side of the house, or in some other rather shaded situation. When the plant loses its bottom leaves some cultivators make a practice of cutting the stem and lowering the plant in the pot so that the plant may be clothed with foliage down to the pot, but this is not a good practice, for if left alone new gi'owths will shoot from the bare stem and will in time hide this bareness. Of course, should the lower part of the stem be in a bad condition, and without roots, and to all appearance dead, then it should be lowered by cutting away all that which has decayed. The family of Aerides is generally very subject to a small brown scale which clings tenaciously to the leaves and must be removed, and afterwards sponged occasionally to keep the scale down. Good strong plants of this species should be pm-chased at from 7s. 6d. to 21s. per leading growth, according to its strength and height, established or imported. AxGli^cu.M SESQUirKUALE. From Madagascar. This is one of the most remarkable and beautiful Orchids in cultivation, and is usually called the "Comet Orchid," the flowers of which are large, of a lovely ivory-white, of great substance, as though formed of wax and of star-like shape, and with a tail upwards of twelve inches in length, this appendage more or less being a peculiarity with all the members of this family. It is a jjlant of easy growth, requiring similar treatment to that recommended for Aerides odoratum, which is of somewhat similar habit, and should be gi-own in pots surfaced with sphagnum, and is very partial to a moist, shady part of the house, but not far away from the glass ; a humid atmosphere best suiting it during the growing season. It flowers during the Avinter months (December and January), and it must be borne in mind that, in cultivating Orchids of this class, every effort should be made to maiiitain then- foliage, for, when no pseiidobulbs exist, the foliage is a great som-ce of strength ; therefore, it is best to avoid extremes in drought and cold, especially when the plants are bearing their flower spikes. Good strong plants of this Orchid are expensive, and one that would produce two flower spikes with three or four flowers on each, orchids: how to grow them successfully. 115 would cost from 40s. to 60s. Good healthy young plants, which -would produce one spike with two or three flowers, and suitable for growing on, should be purchased for about 21s. Ajstgr.bcuji SA^TJERlAifUir. From Madagascar. This is a much smaller growing species than the foregoing, and the flowers, which are pure white and numerous, are arranged very neatly on either side of a pendulous spike about one foot long, and forming a beautiful natural spray, which can be used with charming effect in a lady's toilette, either for the shoulder or hair. It shotdd be grown in small baskets or pans suspended from the roof in a moist and sbady part of the house, aud requires exactly the same kind of treatment as recommended for A. sesquipedale. The flower spikes commence growing in the autumn, but do not open their blossoms until February or Mai-cli. Good strong plants should be fi"om 10s. 6d. to 21s. for one leading gi-owth capable of producing one or two spikes each year. Calaxtiie X Veitchii. Garden Hybrid. Calanthes are found in most of the large establishments, even where Oi'chids generally are not cultivated, and being Avinter-blooming plants they are popular favoui-ites. A compost of good yellow tiu-fy loam, with a good amount of broken charcoal, and coarse silver sand added, is the best for it. The pot should be filled to one-thii-d its depth Nvith good di'ainage, and the compost, which should be pressed moderately firm, left half-an-inch below the rim in order that the plant can be well watered. Tlie bulbs should be jwtted singly, in fi'om 4-inch to 6-inch pots, or two or thi-ee smaller ones in a 6-inch, and should have the old compost and roots entirely removed before being placed into the new pots. The base must be inserted about half-an-inch deep in the fresh compost, and secured in an upright position with a small piece of stick to which the top of the bulb can be fastened, when new roots will speedily be formed. Reiiottiiig should take place every year, for it is highly injurious to these Calanthes to be kept in the same soil two years in succession; doing it in February or March, when the new growths are about one inch long and young roots begin to push out and are ready to take firm hold of the new soU. Although many persons grow Calanthes extremely well, there are numerous others who signally fail in doing so, owing to some details in management not being understood, such as care in watering and the position the plant occupies aitor the bulbs are potted. They should be placed in the warmest house, quite near to the glass — a high shelf being a most suitable place — where there is an abundance of light, and very little water given, not commencing the watering until a week after repotting and about once a week after, until the foliage is well up, say 116 orchids: how to grow TiiEir successfully. six inches liigli, aud the phints well rooted, and then they should have watei' as often as ordinary j)lants simply when dry. With strong growth the formation of new bulbs takes jilace about July and then a little weak liquid manure is beneficial, such as can be obtained by soaking cow or sheep manure and using it in a well diluted form at every watering until the flowers commence expanding and the bulbs become denuded of foliage, then cease giving liquid manure, and only give sufficient water to keep the soil from becoming too dry and to keep the flower in full vigour. When the plants are out of flower water may be entirely withheld until the potting season in March comes round, the plants in the meantime being kept in a light and dry place, but when in flower they can be removed to a warm conservatory or gi-eenhouse, where the flowers will last a month longer in perfection. They are cheap and of easy propagation, the new pseudo bulbs often throwing two new gi'owths, whilst the old ones also grow and form new small bulbs, if laid upon some S2)hagnum or something of a similar nature and kept moist. The flower sjjikes are from two to three feet high, and tlie flowers of a bright rose colour. Good bulbs are obtainable for >').-;. (id. to os. each. CaLANTHE VESTITA RUBRO-OCULATA, AXD C. VESTITA LUTEO-OCULATA. Fi'om Java. Two varieties which are very useful and generally gi'own, the flowers of both being pvire white, but the variety rubrt) lias a red eye, and luteo a yellow eye ; tlie flower stalks are not so tall or erect as in Calanthe Veitchii, but the same treatment does for all, and bulbs sliould be pui-chased about the same price. Many wrongly treated plants of Calanthes are subject to a disease known as " spot," which comes on both the foliage and tlie bulbs, and when once contracted it takes years of excellent treatment to eradicate it ; so in purchasing bulbs it is necessary to see that the skin has a clear appearance and is totally free from black marks or spots. Cattleya Lawrexceana. From Guiana. Although this lovely Orchid may be grown with those requiring less warmth, its cultivation is much more satisfactory in a Warm house, and it can (iither be grown in pots or baskets, but must be well up to the light, and should be in a compost of peat, sphagnum, and broken charcoal, as recommended for Cattleyas (see p SEDEN. ORCHIlDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. 119 house having an Intermediate temperature (but this is not necessary), and brought back to the Warm house after blooming in April. The flowers of this species are of good size, varying in number in proportion to the strength of the plant, and the colour is of a rich purple tint. Good plants should be obtained at from 7s. 6d. to 10s. Gd. per strong lead, imported or established plants. Cattleya Eldorado. From Rio Negro. This is another handsome, delicate coloured species, which does best in a little more warmth than that of the Intermediate house, and it should be growTi in pots placed on a shelf or in baskets suspended. It flowers during the summer months and requires a high temperature in the winter, so should not be removed from the Warm house. For general treatment as to potting, watering, &c., see the section Cattleyas, page 32. There is a variety of this sjpecies which is pure white and named C. Eldorado Wallisii, and another C. Eldorado crocata, blush white with a deep orange blotch in the throat, but the typical form is more or less of a rose tint with an orange blotch in the throat, and the lip is of a deep purple shade. Good plants of this species should be purchased at from os. to 7s. 6d. per strong leading growth, and in this case also it is preferable to piu'chase newly imported or semi-established plants, taking great care to preserve the native leaves as much as possible. Cypripedium Lawrexceaxum. From Borneo. The Warm house is really the home for the great majority of this large genus, although there are some few species, as before stated, which do well in a Cool house. This Cypripedium has two recommendations in its highly ornauiental foliage and handsome flowers, the greater beauty of the latter centring in the dorsal sepal, which is white, striped with a number of purple lines. It should be potted as advised for Cypripediums {see page 35) and given a shady position on the stage, v,-ith a liberal supply of water at all seasons, and, as this fauuly of Orchids is partial to a good deal of water, it is best that they should be repotted at least once in every two years, otherwise the compost may become too much decomposed and the drainage defective, and under such circumstances the plants would not flourish. Should thrip attack them a little tobacco powder dusted into the axils of the leaves will soon accomplish its destruction. This species flowers during the summer months, and good strong plants are obtainable at from 3s. to os. per strong flowering lead. Selenipedixtm (Cypripedium) Sedex. Garden Hybrid. This is a lovely and valuable garden hybrid, which continues flowering for some months from one stem, for when one flower is over 120 ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM StJCCESSFtTLLY. another appears from the same stem, and is of a pale rose shade of colour. Being a very free gi-ower it soon makes a large plant, whicli produces a good number of flowers during the autumn and winter months, and should Lave a shady position with the general treatment recommended for Cj'pripediums. Plants of this variety should be purchased at fromos. to Ts. 6d. per strong flowering leading g].-owth. Selenipedium (Cypripedium) Roezlii. From Colombia. This is another very interesting species with the same characteristics as C. Seden, continuing to produce its flowers from the same stem for along time, requiring similar treatment, compost, potting, &c., but is of a stronger habit of growth ; it commences blooming in Apidl. Strong established plants, and such ai-c recommended, can be purchased at from 5s. to 7s. 6d. per strong lead. Selenipedium (Cypripedium) Domixiaxum. Garden Hybrid. This is another very interesting garden hybrid, and more pleasing and quaint in its character than the two preceding varieties. It is the result of a cross between C. caricinum and C. caudatum, and is intermediate between the two, the long petals coming from the last named species, which has long tail-like petals, from 20 to 30 inches in length, and flowers during the spring months. It requrrcs the same treatment, in eveiy particular, as the preceding sorts. Good plants should be purchased for about 7s. Gd. per strong flowering- sized leading growth, which, imder proper management, soon grows into a large plant. Cypripedium bellatulum. From Cochin Cliina. In this species, as well as in its allied species, C. nivoum inul C. Godfroyae, both of which are most chaste and pretty, an entirely diff'erent method of cultivation will have to be adopted, as they do not lend themselves quite so readily to the treatment generally given to Cypripediums. They are, however, of easy culture, if a more decided mode of cultivation is followed. The potting material shoidd consist of a mixture of rich fibrous loam broken into small lumi:)s, adding small lumps of chalk, varying from the size of a pea to that of a walnut, and these two materials, in equal proportions, should be mixed together. The pot should be well drained to one third of its depth, and the plants fixed rather firmly in the compost, bringing the latter almost level with the rim of the pot. The plant should then be placed in a position near the glass — on a shelf would be a most suitable place — where it can have plenty of light, at the coolest end of the house, taking care that it is not overwatered, for sometimes where every care is exercised, a leaf occasionally damps oft" at the axils. 8i)ecial attention must therefore be given to the watering or much serious damage will result from the OECHiDS : now to grow them successfully. 121 damping off of the foliage, but it is a plant which really requires but little water at any time of the year, more especially duiing the winter months, and when it is applied see that the foliage is kept dry or the water frequently lodges in the axils of the leaf and causes damping. In order to prevent this, dip the pot up to the crown of the plant (not over) in a bucket of water, which is better than the ordinary method of watering. It is not easy to draw a hard and fast rule as to how often the plants should be watered, and growers must be guided by the size of the pot and the quantity of material it contains, as well as the position the plant occupies, for if light and aii-y the compost becomes dvy more readily than if shaded and close ; and although the siu-face of the soil may appear to be di-y the plants may still not require water, owing to the retention of moistiu-e in the chalk and soil. This species flowers during the spring and summer months and is always admired. Good established plants should be purchased at from os. to 7s. Gd. for strong flowering sized jjlants, and as this species is more readily established than many others of the same genus, newly imported plants may be piu-chased with good results. Dexduobium xobile. From Assam. The Den(b-ol)iums are a beautiful and useful family of plants, easy of cultivation, some requiring more warmth throughout the year than others, but for the majority of them it is indispensable they should have a high temperatiu-e and moist atmosphere during the summer months, whilst thi'oughout the winter a cool and rather dry atmosphere is needed to give the plants the necessary rest in order to produce good flowers and giowth next season. D. nobile belongs to the latter group. When repotting becomes necessary, use good fibrous peat with an equal proportion of sphagnum and a little charcoal mixed together, and the pots or baskets half filled ^\'ith crocks and charcoal, always repotting just after the flowering season is over. All the old comi)ost should be cleaned away from the roots, which should be carefully handled, when replacing the plant in the new pot or basket, securing the growths by a few neat sticks thrust into the compost, which should be made moderately furm. A good position in the Warm house on the south side, where there is plenty of light, is most suitable at first, watering carefully, and keeping the compost only moderately moist until the roots show signs of activity, then water more freely, for careless watering at this stage often causes a loss of new growth by damping. As the sunnuer advances the plants gain strength, if not checked by excessive drought or too low a temperature, or failure to keep them clear from red sjjider or thrip ; and the new gi'owth develops into a pseudobulb, and wlien it is seen to taper off jiiul the last leaf appears at the apex the new bulb will have ceased glowing. This species, 122 ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW XHEil SUCCESSFULLY. however, is so very free growing that as soon as the new pseudobulb is formed other growths are pushed from the base, sometimes even before the new bulb has finished its growth, but this is of little consequence. Supposing the principal or first growths are completed by September, the plant should at once be removed to a cooler house where it could have plenty of sunshine and air to mature the growth, but when the first growths come to maturity earlier, the plant may still remain in the Warm house to assist the second growths, but not later than September or October. The removal to a cooler house means the coldest end of the Intermediate house, or even a gi-eenhouse, where the temperature does not fall niuch lower than 45 degrees in winter, gradually with- holding water — giving only just sufficient to prevent shrivelling ; and when showing flower the plants should be removed in January into a little more warmth. The plants then would bloom about April, but if wanted in flower a little earlier they should be removed to the warmest house, but avoiding a sudden change from cold to heat, increasing the water gradually, for if given too freely immediately after the plants have come from their resting quarters, buds which should become open flowers sometimes tm-n into growths. When such flower buds turn to growths they may be taken off when rooting with a heel of the old pseudobulb, and propagated, allowing only those to remain that come from the base. The flowers appear from the sides of the bulbs formed in previous years. This is always a cheap Orchid at from Is. 6d. to 2s. per strong letiding bulb, and may also be bought newly imported, as they generally make strong healthy plants. The varieties of D. nobUe are numerous and vary in size and colour, the most distinct being D. nobile album, and the best dark form D. nobile nobilius. Dexdrobium X AiNSWORTHll. Garden Hj'brid. This is a very pretty and useful hybrid, the result of a cj-oss between D. nobile and D. aureum, and more adapted to basket than pot culture, but with the same treatment as that of D. nobile. This also is a cheap Orchid and obtainable at from 5s. per strong flowering-sizfid leading growth. Dendrobium aureum. From the East Indies. This speciies is of a golden yellow colour and deliciously scented, and does best in baskets, but with the treatment given to D. nobile, and it also blooms fi'om the preceding year's pseudobulbs. Good established plants should be pm-chased for about 5s. per strong leading bulb, and newly imported plants at a cheaper rate, as they grow very freely. Let 50 degrees be the minimum dm-ing winter. Dendrobium Findlayanum. From Burmah. Although different in habit to the preceding it is a very pretty species, flow(>ring in the late winter or early spring months, the flowers OENOROBIUM NOBILE. OIIOIIIDS : HOW TO GKOW XIIEM SUCCESSl-ULLY. 125 being produced on the newly made pseudobulbs ; a few flowering nodes, however, remain dormant, wbicli flower the following year, in conjunction with the newly made pseudobulbs ; the temperature of the Intermediate house is sufficiently low for this species during the resting season ; like the preceding species, 50 degrees is low enough. In all other respects it should be treated as recommended for D. nobile. Its sepals and petals are white, tipped with pink, the lip having a large yellow blotch in the centre. This should be purchased at 2s. or 3s. per strong leading pseudo- bulb, and may be bought either newly imported or established. Dexdhobium FORMOSL'M giganteuji. From Burmah. This is a very handsome Orchid, and the flowers are borne at the apex of the newly formed pseudobulbs diiectly they are matured, and in large trusses, according to theii- strength. This species wUl not grow satisfactorily unless in plenty of warmth, and it must not be taken into a cool temperature to rest but remain in the warmest house the whole year. It must be gi'O^Ti in pans or baskets, and in transfeiTing plants to either it should be done in spring, just as the new gi-owth begins to push forth ; and if in baskets, be suspended in the warmest part of the house in a light position, giving compost and treatment similar to that of D. nobile. Watering should also be done in a similar manner, only that, being kept in a much higher temper- ature during the resting season, it is unable to endure so much drought and should therefore have more water. It flowers during August and September, and the flowers are large and i)ure white, with the exception of an orange blotch on the lip. Occasionally yellow thrip will attack the young growth, and tobacco powder should immediately be applied for their removal. Good plants should be purchased from 3s. to 5s. per strong leading pseudobulb, and it is best to obtain newly imported or semi- established plants. Denduobium PiiAL.i:Norsis Schr^th, by giving it abundance of light, heat, and moistiu-e. The sepals and petals are pure white, handsomely margined with bright pink, and in the centre of the flower are orange and chocolate blotclies. PHALiENOPSIS SCHILLERIANA. From the Philippines. This Orchid is one that has baffled many good growers, even those who have everytliing that is necessary to successful cultivation within their reach, yet from some unexplainable reason they fail to make umch headway with this plant. This is somewhat difficidt to undei'stand, as others who only give ordinary care and attention obtain excellent results, much seeming to depend upon the house in which it is gi'owTi. I, however, advise everj-one to give it a trial, for, if the place suits it. the plant is of great interest, even when not in bloom, on account of its handsome foliage. Its handsome flowers are produced on long branching spikes, from December to February, and are of a soft pale mauve tint, and it should be grown in baskets suspended near the glass on the shady side of the house, too much bright light being injurious, and it should be placed orchids: how to grow them successfully. 127 into the basket in much, the same way as recommended for Aerides odoratum, simply fixing in the sphagnum over a good drainage of crocks and charcoal, and the foliage will then droop over the sides of the basket. Give a liberal supjaly of water during the summer, but less, with great discretion, during the \\diiter, never allowing the sphagnum to get quite dry, or the plant, having no pseudobulbs, Tvill lose its foliage, which is prejudicial to future growth. It should be grown at the warmest part of the house and its leaves occasionally sponged to keep down insects, using tobacco powder if thrip appears. Phalsenopsis are at times injuiiously affected by a watery spot forming on the leaves, and this should at once be cut away with a sharp knife or it will soon spread and eat away the leaf, and generally speaking, when this disease occurs, the idea of successfully gi-o's\-ing the plant may be abandoned. The spot is often produced from some fault in management, such as from a very cold temperature, keeping the plants satui-ated in winter, or some other cause. The common ant will sometimes kill the Phahenopsis if allowed unimpeded sway. Good plants, suitable for growing on and established, shoidil be purchased at from 10s. 6d. each. OxciDirM Papilio. From Caracas. This Orchid is kno^v^l principally on account of its remarkable resemblance to the butterfly, hence its name Butterfly Orchid, and can be grown either on a block or in a small pan or basket, in which it should be securely fixed. It is a compact grouang plant and the flower spikes, which are long and slender, are i)roduced from the base of the last pseudobulb and the flower at its apex, one following the other in siiccession for several years, so that the old spikes shoidd never be cut away unless the plant gets into a weak condition. Plants may be purchased for about 4s. to os. per leading bulb, and newly imported plants may be purchased with highly satisfactory results. Phaius GRAXDIFOLIUS. From the East Indies. This is an excellent old Warm-house teiTCstrial Orchid and is to be fotind in most gardens of note. The compost most suitable being fibrous loam and lumpy peat in equal parts, adding a little coarse sand and broken charcoal, and when rejiotting is necessary it should be done immediately after flowering in February or March, following the directions given for Cymbidium eburneum (see page 103), and watering only when di'y. It should be grown in pots placed on the stage on the shady side of the house, and as this species is subject to attacks from yellow thrip, tobacco powder should be dusted well into the axils of the new growth in order to dislodge or destroy the insects. Good plants should be bought at from 5s. to 7s. 6d. per strong leading gi'owth. 128 ORCHIDS : now to grow them successfully. Stajsthopea tigrixa. From Mexico. This is one of an extremely interesting family of Orchids and of considerable beauty and richness of colour, which counterbalances the short life of the flowers. This species must be gi-o-^Ti in baskets ha%'ing no crocks at the bottom, and only sphagnum and flbrous peat. It flowers dui'ing the summer months, and these are produced on spikes which have pushed their way downwards through the soil and basket, so that crocks would gi-eatly intercept and damage the flowers. The ground colour of the flower is either pale or orange yellow, spotted and barred with dark chocolate-red, and the flowei's give out a veiy powerful jjerf ume which pervades the whole house, and from its habit of pushing its flower spikes through the roots must be grown in baskets suspended from the roof at the coolest part of. the house, giving water in moderation all the year. The leaves should be sponged occasionally to keep down red spider, and if attacked by thrip use tobacco powder. Insecticides are very dangerous to the young growths, frequently causing them to rot, even when applied in a weak form. Good plants fi-oiu os. to 7s. 6d. per strong leading gi-owth. Chysis BRACTESCEXS. From Mexico. This is a handsome species, bearing large trusses of wax-like white and yellow flowers dming March or April, and, although very beautiful, the flowers are rather short-lived ; it may be grown with the Dendrobiums, as it requires exactly the same treatment as regards heat and moistm-e dm-iug summer and a cool rest during winter. It should be grown in a basket suspended in a light position, and being subject to yellow thi-ip, tobacco powder should be used in preference to insecticide, as the young gi-owth is very tender and liable to rot. The flowers push forth simultaneously with the new growth. Newly imported or established, 3s. 6d. to os. per strong lead. The inexperienced cultivator, in following the instructions laid down in the selection of twenty-four Orchids for Cool house culture and the same number each for the Intermediate and the Warm house, will begin to understand how to ensui-e good results and obtain a tliorou"-h knowledge of their requirements, and knowing the extent of his resources will be able to realise what reasonable chance he has of success witli his plants, and have a fair idea also of the probable cost of good plants to start with. OEcniDS : HOW to grow them: successfully. 1:29 SUPPLEMENTARY VARIETIES. IT lias occiu'red to uie that some who may have the means at command for still fiu-ther extending their collections may be glad to have reliable information as to other sorts they may desu'e to grow ; therefore, I propose to give a supplementaiy list of another twenty-four Oi'chids suitable for Cool house cultm-e, also twenty-four more for the Intermediate house, and the same number for the "Warm house. TWENTY-FOUR ORCHIDS FOR COOL HOUSE. Odoxtoglossum Hallii. From Ecuador. This Orchid requires the same treatment as O. crispum, the sepals and petals of the flower being of a yellowish tint, blotched with bright brown, the lip white and yellow, flushed with purple. Flowers during the spring mouths. Price OS. to 10s. 6d. per strong lead, purchased as newly imported or as established plants. Odoxtoglossum luteo-purpureum. From Colombia. This reqvures the same treatment as O. HaUii, and there is also great variation in this species. The flowers of the typical form are of a yellowish ground colour, with large blotches of bright brown, whilst the lip is also yellowish, with brown spots, and it flowers during the winter and spring months. Good strong leading bulbs should be bought at from 4s. to 7s. 6d. each, and may be had newly imported or established. Odoxtoglossum Edwardii. From Ecuador. This should have the same treatment as recommended for Oncidium macranthum {see jiage 80). The flowers are pretty, of a violet-purple colour, and are freely produced on long erect branehiug spikes during the spring. Plants, either established or newly imported, from os. to 10s. 6d. each strong lead. Odontoglossum biotoniense. From Guatemala. This requires the same treatment as the last named, and it flowers during the autumn and winter months ; the sepals and petals are 130 orchids: how to grow them successfully. greenisli, with bi-own spots, and the lip of a pinkish colour. There is also a white variety of this species. Newly imported or established plants from 3s. 6d. to 5s. each. Odontoglossum bla:^dum. From Ocana. This requires the same treatment as O. crispum. The flowers are delicate and neat, and borne on slender, short spikes, the ground colour white, densely spotted with reddish brown, and emitting a pleasant perfume. Newly imported or established plants from 5s. to lOs. each. Odoxtoglossum maculatum. From Mexico. This requires the same ti*eatment as Oncidium inacranthum (see page 80). It produces its flowers during the winter months, and in colour is a combination of green, chocolate, and purple. Newly imported or established plants 3s. 6d. to 5s. each. Odoxtoglossu^i coRDATUir. From Colombia. This requires the same treatment as the last named, and it blooms during the winter and spring months, the sepals and petals being of a yellowish tint, covered with bi'oad marks of chestnut-brown, and the lip wliitc, with brown spots. Newly imported or established plants 3s. 6d. to 5s. each. Odoxtoglossum: pulchelluat majus. Froin Mexico. Requires the same treatment as the last named species, and blooms during the -svduter and spriug months, sending up neat spikes which carry a number of pretty white flowers. Newly imported or established plants, having not less than three or four leads, should be bought for 5s. and 7s. 6d. per plant. Odontoglossum nebulosum. From Mexico. Requires the same treatment as the last named, and the flowers of this species are white, more or less spotted with reddish brown, and are produced during the winter and spring. Newly imported or established plants 3s. 6d. to 5s. each. Oncidium Marshaxliaxum. From Brazil. Should be grown in pans or baskets and suspended, and the flowers are produced on long branching spikes, which make their appearance from the base of the new bulbs in autumn, and grow aU the ^vinter. The chief beauty in this flower is the large and bright yellow lip. This Oncidium has also the reputation of deteriorating, which it does if allowed to flower from weakly plants. It is therefore advisable to pinch off the spikes of such every alternate year. It is best to purchase newly imported or semi -established pieces at from 5s. to 7s. 6d, OilCUIDS : HOW TO GROW TIIEM SUCCESSFULLY. ISl OxciDlUM For.BESll. From Brazil. This species must be grown exactly the same as the last named, and also deteriorates if allowed to flower each year, so that it is advisable to pinch oflf the spikes from all weak or undersized bulbs. Its flowering time is in the autumn, and the flowers are of a rich orange- brown, edged with gold. It is an exquisite Orchid when well gi'own. Newly imported or semi-established plants 3s. 61. to 5s. each. Oncidium orxithorhyxchum. From Guatemala. This requires the same treatment as O. macranthum, and is a free growing and floriferous species, producing delicate branching spikes with a number of small strongly perfumed flowers of a rosy pui-j^le colour ; blooming dm-ing the winter and spring months. Newly imported or established plants fi-om 3s. 6d. to os. eacli. Masdevallia Harryaxa ccerulescexs. From Colombia. This should have the same treatment as recommended for M. Harryana (see page 16), as this is only one of its many varieties, but the flowers are of a larger size and the colours more rich and brilliant ; it flowers in the spring. Established plants can be pui-chased of the true variety at 5s. per two leading gi'owths. Masdevallia x Chelsoiti. Garden Hybrid. This is a hybrid between M. Veitchiana and M. amabilis, and is a free grower and bloomer. It should have the same treatment as M. HaiTyana, and this variety also flowers during the ^-int«r. Good plants, with three or four leads, about 5s. each. Masdevallia SHUTTLEWOitrmi. From Colombia. Tlds is a i)retty little species and should be _gi-owu in small baskets or pans suspended, and with the same treatment as M. Han-yana ; it flowers dm'ing the spring months. The flowers are rose and yellow ish green, more or less spotted with dark red. Established plants, with about thi-ee or four leads, Ts. 6d. Pleione LAGEXARIA. From Khasia Hills. (The Indian Crocus.) In this very beautiful little Orchid we have one diftV-iing in so many respects from the majority, for there are no old pseudobidbs, as these become exhausted by the time the new pseudobulbs are matured about September, at which period the latter lose their leaves, and from the base commence pushing up their flowers, which expand in October and November, and immediately they have flowered the plants can be shifted into a fresh compost of fibrous loam, peat, sphagnum, and sand. l;^2 ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. Tlie pans sboixld be thi-ee parts filled Avdth di-ainage and the compost left level with the lim, and on this the bulbs should be placed, from 10 to 12 in a 6-inch pan or basket, at equal distances apart. These should be secm-ed in their positions by means of small pegs, and the surface between the bulbs carefuUy covered mth sphagnum, so that about half of the bulb is beneath. Very little water will now be required — - simply enough to keep the sphagnum moist until the foUage is well up, when a liberal supply may be given until the growth is completed. This species is very partial to much light and should therefore be suspended near to the glass, and if possible, without injury to the other plants, let this have direct sunlight upon it, seeing at the same time that the plant does not suffer from drought. Watering must be less frequent when the bulbs are matured and begin to lose their foliage. The sepals and petals ai-e of a mauve-rose tint, and the lip white, yellow, and dark crimson, and the flowers open near to the surface of the pan and are singularly beautiful. Unless a suitable position cau be found for tliis species it will probably fail, and in such a case a light place in a little warmer house should be given it. Newly imported or established plants Is. to Is. 6d. per strong bulb. Pleione maculata. From Assam. This is a lovely companion to the preceding, and should have similar treatment, but cannot withstand quite so much strong sun- light ; it also blooms dm-ing the autumn, and the sepals and petals are pure white. Eemove to a warmer and lighter house if imsuccossful. Newly imported or e.stablislied plants. Is. to Is. Gd. per strong bulb. AXGULOA RucKERl. From Colombia. This is a noble growing Orchid, and should be treated exactly the same as advised for A. Clowesii. The flowers, which appear in summer from the base of the pseudobidbs, are of a yellowish ground colour, tinted with orange-red. Newly imported or established plants vary from 7s. Od. to 10s. Gd. and l.js. per strong leading bulb. Maxillaria VEXUSTA. From South America. A very ju-etty sweet-scented Orchid with white and yellow flowers, much in the way of M. grandiflora and require the same treatment. It flowers in the autumn months. Give it the wannest part of this house or in the Intermediate house during winter. Newly imported or established plants 3s. Gd. to js. per strong leading bulb. L.'ELIA HARPOPHYLLA. From Brazil. This is a very pretty Orchid, and the uncommon colour of the flower makes it a very conspicuous object when in bloom. It flowers OllCHlDS : ItO-W TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. 133 in February and March, and is of a bright orange-vermilion colour; should occupy the warmest part of the house, especially during winter. Xewly imported or established plants at 3s. 6d. to 5s. for two strong leading bulbs. Dexdrobiuxi Falcoxeri. From Northern India. This is a very beautiful Dendrobe and amply repays any trouble expended on it, and does best gi-own on a block of wood, a portion of a tree fern stem, or on a teak-wood raft, and may also be grown in pans or baskets. Its natural habit is to send out new growths in gi-eat profusion anjnvhere on the old bulbs, and in time forming a thick mass of short knotty pseudobulbs, which are connected with the stem or portion of the ti'ee from whence it first started by means of a few slender stems only. This fact should be clearly noted by the cultivator when fixing his pl-ints, and it wUl be seen that there is little use in trying to keep the plant too much confined to the block, but plenty of water should be given to the aerial growths during the summer and up to September, by the free use of the sp-inge. but after this date the supply of water must be gi-adually reduced to about once a week or longer. Under this treatment the plant may be expected to fl(.)wer satisfactorily, but without this long and perfect rest, from November until the nodes are seen to be sending forth tiny shoots, it will not. Allien these tiny shoots appear from either side of the bulb, about ]\Iarch, more water may be given, but only sparingly, otherwise they will turn to growths instead of flowers. After the shape of the flower bud can be dt^tected, it is quite safe to apply water without stint. This species flowers in May, the colours of the flowers being dark crimson, white, and yellow. The plant should be suspended. Buy newly imported clumps in spiing at from 3s. 6d. to 7s. 6d. CcELOGYXE CRISTATA Lemoxiaxa. From Xepaul. This lovely species must be treated in the same way as advised for C. cristata {page 89), it being a variety differing only by the colour on the lip being pale lemon instead of orange, and it blooms in February or March. Established plants, with from four to five le;i:ls, at from 7s. 6d. to 10s. 6d. L.ELIA .Day.\xa. From Brazil. This shoidd be treated in the same manner as advised for Laslia praestans {paf/e 90), the chief difference in the flowers being in the lip, and it blooms in the autumn. Newly imported plants are best, but good established plants can also be purchased, with two or three leads, at from -3s. to 7s. 6d. each. 134 ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. CYPRir'EDiUM BOXALLII. From Moulmein. This very pretty species is gi-own in exactly the same way as advised for C. villosum {page 89), and the flowers have a glazed appearance like that species, but in this plant the dorsal sepal is heavily spotted with dark purple, and it flowers during the winter and spring months. Established plants, 3s. 6d. to 5s. per strong flowering growth. TWENTY-FOUR ADDITIONAL ORCHIDS FOR THE INTERMEDIATE HOUSE. Aerides FiELDTXGi. From the East Indies. (The Fox's Brush Orchid.) This species should be potted and watered as recommended for A. odoratum {page 113), but it should be grown on the shady side of this house, and it flowers in spring. Good plants should be obtained with six or eight leaves, suitable for growing on, at about 7s. 6d. to 10s. 6d., established. Cymbidium Lowianum. From Burmah. This is a handsome free growing species, producing long spikes of flowers during the summer, the coloiu- is of a greenish yellow with a blotch of deep red on the lip, and should have the same treatment as C. eburneum (see fage 103). Newly imported or established plants from os. to 10s. fid. per strong lead. Epidendrum Wallisii. From New Granada. This is a free growing species with pretty yellow and sj^iotted flowers, and when the plant has gro'svTi to a good size it remains a long period in bloom ; it should be grown in peat, sphagnum and charcoal, and it can be treated as recommended for Sobralia macrantha. Established, from 10s. to 15s. per strong leading growth, though at present it is not very common, and a little difficulty may be experienced in obtaining small plants. Ltelta CINNABARINA. From Brazil. This species blooms in the spring mouths ; the flowers are of a rich, deep, reddish orange colour, and the flower spikes appear from the top of the bulbs, and, as with all Cattlej'as and Ltelias, in some cases the sheaths from which the spikes come appear to be dead, but this makes no difference to the plant blooming. This species will not ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. 135 bear so much sun as L. anceps, and requii-es the same treatment as Cattleya Trianae and others. Newly imported or established, from 3s. 6d. to 5s. per strong leading bulb. L^LiA AXCEPS Saxderia:na. From Mexico. This is a beautiful white variety of L. anceps, and like that species should be grown in a basket, and ftdly exposed to sunlight ; it flowers during the winter months. The ti'ue " alba," whicb is without any dark markings in the thi'oat, is very rare. Newly imported or established, about 10s. 6d. per strong leading gi'owth. L^ELIA ALBIDA, From Mexico. This pretty little species, which flowers during November and December, has flowers which are mostly white, and will not bear quite so much sunshine as L. anceps, but in other respects should have the same treatment. Nice clumps, newly imported in spring, with four or five leads, for about os. L.t:lia X elegans. From Santa Catherina. This is supjiosed to be a natural hybrid between LseUa pui-pui-ata and Cattleya Leopoldii, and it may be grown in pots or baskets, but should be placed in the warmest position during the winter. Nice plants, newly imported or established, should be obtained for about 7s. 6d. to 10s. 6d. per leading bulb. Cattleya Ski^^neri. From Costa Eica. This handsome and useful species blooms in April or May, and is of easy culture, requiring exactly the same treatment as that advised for Cattleyas generally. Newly imported or established plants, at 3s. 6d. to 5s. per strong leading bulb. Cattleya Bowrixgiana. From Honduras. This should have the same treatment as the last named, being somewhat similar, and I have sometimes thought that this species produces a greater number of flowers when grown in baskets and suspended. Newly imported or established, at 3s. 6d. to 5s. per strong' leading bulb. » Cattleya amethystoglossa. From Brazil. A tall growing species, and therefore must be in pots, requiiing the same treatment as Cattleyas in general. The flowers are of a rosy pui'ple colour, more or less spotted with deep magenta. 136 ORCHIDS : now TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. Good strong leads, newly imported or established, at from os. to 10s. 6d. Cattleya intermedlAl. From Brazil. This is a very pretty summer-flowering species, much Uke C. Han-isoniana ia habit of growth, and should be treated like that species, with the exception of the winter time when it is in active growth, during which time it should, if possible, be at the warmest end of the house, or taken to a AVarm house. Newly imported or established, 5s. to 7s. Gd. per leading growth. Cattleya Harbisoniana. From BrazU. A very useful and pretty species, in appearance very much like C. Loddigesii, but the colour of the flower is much darker and with an orange blotch in the lip instead of lemon — the same treatment is required for both. Newly imported or established for about 5s. per strong growth. Cattley'A maxima. From Ecuador. This is a charming autumn-flowering species and must be treated like Cattleyas generally, but does best in baskets suspended in a shady part of the house. The sepals and petals are of a bright deep rose coloui-, and the hp is prettily lined or veined with dark red. Newly imported plants in spring, or semi-estabbshed plants, for about OS. per strong leading bulb. Cattleya Percivaliaxa. From Venezuela. This is the earliest of all the C. labiata section, coming into flower in January and February; the colours of the flowers vary and are very much like C. Mossiae, the chief characteristic diff'crence being in the smaller size and the exceptionally rich colour of the lip. This species should be gi-own in company ^vith C. Warscewiczii, where it can get plenty of sun, otherwise it fails to bloom freely. During autumn and whiter it should be placed at the wariuest end of the house, otherwise the flowers may not come to perfection. Newly imported or established, about os. per strong leading bulb. Masdevallia TGVAREN'SIS. From Venezuela. This is a small growing, lovely, pure white species, and produces an abundance of flowers in November or December ; must be grown in the Intermediate house, for if kept too cold during the winter the plant loses its leaves and dies. The cidture, otherwise, is the same as recommended for M. Han-yana, but the old flower stems shoidd not be cut off, as these produce flowers again the following season. Good established plants, with from fom- or five leads, should \)9 purchased at from 4s. to 5s. per plant. OkCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM StJCCESSFULLY. 13* PiLrjrxA FRAGRAXS. From Xow Granada. This species sends up its spikes from the base of the pseudobulbs during autumn or winter, and its flowers are very pretty, mostly pure white with a Httle blotch of yellow in the throat, and are deliciously fragrant and useful for bouquet work, and its general treatment shoiild be the same as Cattleyas. Newlj^ imported or established pieces, for about os. per strong lead. Tricttopilia suavis. From Costa Eica. This is a lovely species and flowers in March or April, producing flower spikes from the base of the last made pseudobulbs, and the flowers are nearly white with a number of pretty pink spots on the labellum. This species is best grown in a basket suspended in a light part of the house. Newly imported or established, for about 5s. per strong lead. Yaxda C(ERULEA. From Kliasia Hills. This is undoubtedly the best of all the Yandas. and produces its beautiful sky-blue flowers diu-ing the early autumn, which last a long time in perfection, but should be cut two or tlu-ee weeks after they open or the plant ■^'ill probably become exhausted and fail to give good results the following year. It can be gi-own in a pot or basket, and up near the roof glass so as to have an abundance of light and an\ After passing thi'ough a period of dull weather, bright sunlight is veiy injiu'ious to Vandas, and this should be avoided, especially in spring, or a loss of leaves will result. For instructions as to potting, watering, &c., see Aerides odoratum, page 113. Unless the culture of this species is very carefully attended to it is apt to get spotted on the foliage, and these spots appear on the tips of the leaves and should at once be cut away to save the leaves. Newly imported or established plants, with one lead, 7s. to 10s. 6d. each. Yaxda stjavis. From Java. This is anotlier beautiful Yanda, and more robust in constitution than Y. coerulea. It should be growni in a pot occu^jj-ing a position on the stage with the Cattleyas. and in potting, watering, &c., have the same general treatment as Aiirides odoratum. It blooms during the spring months, a strong stem sometimes pushing out three or four spikes, and this species gi-ows to a gi'eat height. Established plants, suitable for gi-owing on, should be purchased for 7s. 6d. to 10s. 138 ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCKSSFULLY. Ctpripeuiuji Argus. From the East Indies. This pretty little species may be grc^Ti in a damp and shady part of the house, and ti-eated the same as advised for C. Lawrenceanum, and it produces its flowers in March or April, the petals being heavily spotted. Established plants, 3s. 6d. and os. per leading growth. Ltcaste Deppei. From Mexico. This species must be ti-eated in the same way as L. Skinneri, but as it does not bloom until spring a good rest should be given to it through the winter in a light and airy position, which will induce the plant to flower with greater freedom. The sepals are gi-eenish yellow, the petals white, and the hp yellow. Newly imported plants if possible, or established, 3s. 6d. to os. per strong leading growth. Lycaste aromatica. From Mexico. This species, if well grown and with a good rest as recommended for L. Deppei, will produce a large quantity of golden yellow flowers from the last formed bidbs in spring, the flowers appearing simul- taneously with the new growths, and when the latter is seen to be starting into growth and repotting is necessary, it should tlien be done, otherwise if the plant is left until it has finished blooming, the new gi'owths will be too far advanced and the plant receive a great check. Newly imported if possible, or established, at from 3s. (id. to os. per strong leading bidbs. SOBRALIA XAKTHOLEUOA. From Guatemala. This is a handsome yellow flowered variety which blooms in May or June, and must be treated as advised for S. macrantha ; but is by no means so plentiful as that species, and is, therefore, more expensive. Small jjlants, suitable for growing on, however, should be bought for from 21s. upwards, established if possible, or newly inijiorted. OuoXTuGLossuM Insleayi. From Mexico. This is a pretty winter-flowering species, and in growth bears a gi-eat resemblance to O. grande, in company with which no better place can be found to grow it than the Intermediate house, treating it just the same as the last named vai-iety, except that a little more water must be given in winter until it has flowered. The sepals and petals are pale brown, densely spotted wdth rich reddish brown, and the lip is yellowish in coloiu- and slightly spotted. Newly imported plants if possible, or established, at from 5s. to 7s. (>d. per strong leading growth. ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. 139 THE FOLLOWING ARE TWENTY-FOUR ADDITIONAL KINDS FOR THE WARil HOUSE. Saccolabium Blumei. From the East Indies. This very pretty Orchid, which iiowers ia July or August, must be grown in exactly the same way as recommended for Aerides and Angrsecums ; the flowers, which are produced on long pendulous racemes, are white flushed with rose and splashed with dark rose. Good plants, newly imported or established, os. to 10s. 6d. Cattleya Aclais'DLE. From Brazil. This pretty interesting little Cattleya does best grown in a basket suspended on the lightest side of the house. It is a quick grower, and usually makes two or more growths during the sunimer, flowering from each. The sepals and petals are heavily marked with dark blotches, and the lip is of a pi-etty rosy pui'ple colour. Newly imported or semi-established plants, 5s. to 7s. 6d. per two strong growths. Cypripedium Chamberlainianum. This is a new and very pretty species, and, owing to its very recent introduction, has not, in my opinion, yet been seen in perfection. It bears a number of flowers in succession on one spike, the predominating colour being a pleasing shade of jjurple, and should have the same treatment as warm Cypripediums in general. Established plants, 5s. to 7s. 6d. per strong leading gTowth. Cypripedium Curtisii. From Sumatra. This species lias ]irettily marked leaves, and the dorsal sepal is white and green witli slight pui-ple veins, the petals being very similar in colour but with darker spots, and the pouch is of a pui-plish colour, and it shovild have the same treatment as the last named. Established plants, about 5s. per strong lead. Cypripedium venustum. From Sylhet. The foliage of this species is decidedly ornamental and the flowers are also very pretty, the dorsal sepal of a greenish colour, tinted with yellow and veined with purple, and the sepals are similarly coloured, whilst the lip is of a pm-plish tint veined with green. It should have the same treatment as C. Lawrenceanum. Established plants, 3s. 6d. to 5s. per strong flowering-siz(:t Indian Islands, such as Dendrobium Phahienopsis, and its var. Schroederianum, D. superbum (macrophyllum), D. Lovvi, D. JohnsonifB (Macfarlanei), D. superbiens, D. bigibbum, D. atroviolaceum and D. Dalhousieanum ; likewise a few Cypripediums, the principal of which are those coming from the hot lowlands of the East Indian Islands, such as C. Roths- childianum, C. Lowii, C. Stonei, C. philippiuensis and C. Sanderianum. Cattleya Eldorado, C. superba and C. Aclandise may also fail to do well on account of insufficient warmth. These are all I think that I need point out as being unlikely to grow with much certainty. Of course there a good many Oncidiums, Odontog1o.«sums, Masdevallias, and some few others, independent from those mentioned in the following chapter, that delight in a pretty cold summer treatment. But still, if the house is not partitioned off, or the cool frame is not at hand, the whole, with the exception of those hereafter named, may be tried under the aforementioned conditions, where they will be found to grow very well if suitable positions are selected according to theii' requu'ements. The selections of which is the most interesting study of the whole thing, and one which can only be taught by practice, and the looking up of various works and writings on the subject, if necessary, after this work is exhausted. Remember steam arising from the cold water coming in contact with the hot water pipes is most harmful to any orchid, and produces muny ills. Of course it makes no difference on a small scale, such as a little accideutly. But why I mention this fact is because I find it is the custom of some amateurs to syringe the pipes whenever they are hot, to produce a vapour. Truly a moistiure is thereby created, but it is certainly the wrong kind of moisture. loJ UUL'HlUri ; HOW^ TO GliOW TUEM SUCCKSSI-'ULLV. THE CULTURE OF ODONTOGLOSSU.M CRISPUM AND ALLIED KINDS. @DONTOGLOSSUM crispum is probably tlie most popular orchid in cultivation. No doubt it is a most lovely and serviceable species, yet I could never quite understand how an admirer and grower of orchids could cultivate this one species almost to the exclusion of all others, still such is the case in a few instances. Of course O. crispum is prettj', but it is absurd to say that it is prettier than hundreds of other species of orchids. It is also interesting, especially when one gets the mania for collecting the real cream of varieties, and the more or less spotted forms. But to the lover of the beautiful, I cannot possibly see how they can be more interesting than the majority of other orchids, or even so much so. Still the fact remains, O. crispum at the present day is a popular orchid, and I propose therefore to treat it rather fully in this edition, yet as briefly as possible. Its cultivation is extremely easy when properly taken into hand, but otherwise it is apt to give a good deal of trouble. I advise all who would grow it to perfection to avoid too much of the kind of treatment that I will term "coddling," which wdl soon produce rootless drawn specimens that are unable to bear the strain of a strong spike of bloom. Some Orchids will adapt themselves very well to artificial treatment, even though it may not be quite correct, and still do well, but this is not so with the present species, and this fact renders it a rather risky one for a new beginner to take in hand largelj', before he has first mastered the niost vital points in its cultivation. It is. however, often one of the first included in a newly formed collection, on the grounds that it is a cool growing si^ecies. I will now describe what I have found to be the most successful treatment, which on the whole will, I think, be found pretty correct, and I can conscientiously recommimd its adoption by those who wish to succeed thoroughly well. The House. — I greatly prefer a low-built spau-roof house, running north to south, either wide enough to admit of a centre step-like stage in addition to the side stages, or the latter only. Such a span-roofed house is not however absolutely necessary, for they may be grown in any other shaped house, and it may be in almost any position, from an a.spect of due south to north, the management of course riryinci accordingJi/. Whatever the structure selected, the means of ventil- ation, both at top and bottom, must be ample, and the stages must be so arranged so as not to be too far away from the roof-glass. The furthest OKCIIIIJS : now TO GROW TUE.M SUCCESSFULLY. l-)'> point should not be more than four feet, and the nearest not less than one foot from the glass. I greatly prefer, and strongly advise, stages of an open nature, that is to say, a simple greenhouse stage formed of slats of wood, with a space of one or two inches left between each slat so that the air can circulate freely up between the plants. This question of open stages I consider of great importance, if really good results are to be obtained. The air plays a most vital part with these essentially air-lovnng plants, and the freest circulation which the outside conditions permit is at all times of the utmost importance. It has sometimes been thought that the principal point necessarily lay in the keeping of the house and the plants in a particular wet and humid condition, because of the rains and the exceptionally heavy dews of its native habitat. This explains the origin of closed stages — covered with some moisture retaining material and kept constantly saturated — on which the plants were stood. The idea however has proved to be wrong and misleading. I do not advise anyone who may be growing fairly good plants under such conditions to too suddenly change their methods of culture, or for that matter to change at all, stiU I am convinced that the idea of closed stages is wrong in principle for any orchid house. It is right of course, especially in summer to introduce large supplies of moisture which they in nature so much enjoy, but we must allow the air to play its counteracting part in our houses, just as it does in their native trees at home, and it is quite unable to accomplish this when the plants are placed on air-proof stages in pots. The air must freely circulate around and beneath them as well as above, in order to grow hardy, healthy plants. Summer Treatment. — The treatment during the summer months is extremely simple and consists principally in shading well from the sun's rays, admitting large volumes of air, both night and day, whenever the outside conditions are at all seasonable, and keeping plenty of moisture distributed about the house and plants. But, fond of moisture as O. crispum undoubtedly is, the compost in wliich it is growing should not be kept continually in a state of satui-atiou. I have proved beyond doubt that it does not jtay to keep them so. When one comes to think, there seems something most unnatural about it. O. crispum is not found growing in bogs and marshes, but high up in the branches of trees, exposed to the full breezes, where it is morally certain they must sometimes get dry as well as wet, roots and all. That they like moisture and cannot get on for long without is well known, but I prefer to see my crispums get pretty dry at the roots before I again water them ; the watering they receive in the meantime is over- head syringing with tepid water once or twice daily, according to requirements. This syringing is siifficieutly heavy to thoroughly wet the foliage, and to moisten the surface of the compost, but not heavy enough to saturate the whole mass. The temperature of course should be kept as low as the weather will admit. lo4 CKCHLDS ; HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. Winter Treatment. — The treatment is also very simple in winter. A temperature ranging from 50° to 60° should generally be had if possible. It may fall even to 40° in very cold weather, but for short periods only. The atmosphere should then of course be pretty dry, and it would naturally be so unless a great deal of water was thrown down, because the extra heat of the pipes would tend to dry the atmosphere. It may rise above 60° on warm sunny days. Ventilatiox should be freely given both night and day when the outside weather is mdd and damp, as it so often is, but less when it is colder, and then by means of the bottom ventilators only. There wUl also be periods when it is so cold that it is best to keep all ventilators tightly closed. Much less moisture distributed about the house is required than in summer. When it is mild and moist outside, and but little if any fii"e heat is wanted, as is often the case, whole days may pass by wdthout it being necessary to damp or water at all, the outside air, if allowed to enter, being sufficiently charged with moisture. At this period one should be particularly careful not to over water at the root. Make a point of keeping the whole of the plants, no matter in what stage of growth they are, whether the new pseudobulb is wholly, or only partly matured, on the dry side. Do not however keep them dust dry so as to cause shrivelling — the pseudobulbs should always maintain their plumpness. Those amongst them that are forming their growth should have only little more water afforded than those that are completed. They will then move steadily but surely along. If the house is well exposed to light and air, it is a good plan to lightly sj'ringe overhead in winter also, doing it in lieu of can watering, choosing the morning of a bright day, so that the foliage may to some extent again di-y up before night. If the house has a northern aspect where the winter sun is unable to reach it I would advise greater caution in this respect. Shading. — O. crispum, to be well grown, must be hardily grown, and with this end in view we must subject them to treatment most likely to bring it about. Of com-se we must shade from the sun dming the summer, but do not shade more than is really necessary. If they are staged near the roof glass a thin coating of " whitewash " or " summer cloud " may be painted on and allowed to lemain the whole summer, but in addition to this removable blinds should bo had for use when the sun is shining. If they are staged a long distance from the glass, then the last named removable shading should alone be used. By growing them too densely shaded we get long drawn-up, spindly foliage, unable to support its own weight. The foliage should rather be short and standing erect without the aid of any support whatever. Its colour should be a healthy deep green, with here and there a reddish or bronzy tint. This state of affairs can only be brought about by exposing your plants to good light short of actual ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUGCESSFtrLLY. loo sunshine and to as much air as possible, compatible with their well known partiality for moisture. If plants have been tenderly grown they may at first appear to resent such treatment, and may possibly drop a few leaves, but, rely upon it, the result will prove the best in the end. Those that grow O. crispum indifferently will probably have noticed from time to time that the foliage has a decided tendency to become more or less marked, or spotted ^vdth v/atery and eventually black spots. Also that the apex of the leaves decay, which have to be trim- med occasionally to present a respectable appearance, this happening principally during the winter months. This is a sure sign of previous wrong treatment, which has caused a weakened constitution, and it will also be evidence that the existing conditions are too wet, or too cold, probably both, for the latter produces the former. It is frequently brought about in damp weather during winter when, instead of having slight warmth in the pipes with ventilation on, the house is shut up in order to maintain the thermometer to the desired figure without troubling to light a fire, which is a very bad system to follow. Keep a sharp look out for that insidious little yellow thrip, which cripples the flower buds and marks the foUage so terribly if allowed to breed. To the impractised eye it is sometimes unnoticeable until the mischief is actually done. On the least signs of it fumigate with XL All Fumigating Insecticide, the most efficacious thing ever brought out. Another most important item, never repot except when necessary. A plant should safely go for two years and perhaps more. Repot only at the proper time, which is when the new growth has started and is from half an inch to an inch in length. Select them when in that condition, no matter what is the season, whether winter or summer. The following kinds require similar treatment : Odontoglossum Pescatorei, O. x Andersoniauum, O. x Euckerianum. O. Cervantesii, O. gloriosum, O. Hallii, O. Lindleyanum, O. luteopm-pureum, O. poly- xanthum, O. sceptrum, O. tripudians, O. triumphans and 0. Eossi ma jus ; with others, of course, but, as I have before stated, most others are not so particular and will grow very well in a mixed amateur's house as explained in the preceding chapter. ^?^.€c^^P^te2i:^l,^^ ^ao{^ 156 ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. TABULATED INSTRUCTIONS FOR Many of the more popular and well-known Orchids are included in the This cannot possibly be avoided without materially increasing the size and price of Should, however, any reader desire fui-ther information respecting any of the is a working gardener) will be pleased to supply full particulars on receipt of a On Watering. — All Orchids during the summer months, when making gro'ni^h, porous, and whenever the compost becomes dry give the plant a good soaking. Whether Whether Whether best preferring grown in to grow in Cool, Intermediate, a shndy, baskets or The moat NAMES OF PLANTS l>.igp sunny, pans and suitable or partial puepended.or compost Warm House sunny position in pots on the stage ACINETA Barkeri DENSA 1 Interme- partial baskets peat and sphagnum HUMBOLDTII ( moss ACROPERA LoDDiGF.sii ditto ditto baskets ditto * ARMENIACA C Warm end or pans ADA AUEANTIACA 91 \ of Cool ( house shady pots ditto AKRIDES CRASSiroi.iuM Warm ^ ( pots or t baskets | N CRISPUM 1 Internie- 1 t LlNDLEYANlM.. Wabnbki r diate y pots falcatum ^ "l HOULLRTIANUM Lboni* > ditto sphagnum Lawrences moss ODDRATIIM IK) QUINQUEVUt.NERA S- Warm ( pots or Savaoeanum baskets SUAVISSIMl'M virens maculosum AFFINE LOBBII ; J / ; AGANISIA OYANEA ) , baskets 1 peat and 1 sphagnum lONOPTERA - ditto sunny f pots or 1 baskets ANGR^CUM EHUUNEUM ' } pots ^ SESQUIPEDALE 114 i i ARTICULATUM "l CITRATUM - ditto shady I ,-sphagnum FASTUOSUM I basket Leonis 1 or pans SCOTTIANUM J Sanderianum lis , / ANGULOA Clowksii RUCKERI 90 132 \ Cool ditto pots peat and sphagnum UNIKLORA J ANSELLIA AFRICANA Warm partial ( baskets t or pots ditto ARPOPHYLLUM oioANTEUM ( Interme- "( diate sunny pots ditto BARKERIA ei.egans ) ... baskets LiNDLKYANUM ■ ditto very sunny or blocks sphagnum SKINNBRI •• ) • These Orchids, with a few others, are apt to get a little irregular in making growth. OfeCHIDS : Sow TO GROW TIIEM StlCCESSFULtY. 157 THE TREATMENT OF ORCHIDS. following Calendar, but, unfortunately, there are also many that are omitted, the book, which, in the interest of the numerous small growers, is not desirable, species mentioned, or those not included, the author (who, it must be remembered, remittance of Is. for each name, delight in a good supply of water, that is, supposing the compost is, as it should be, The best time to repot or top-dreaa after flowering i when new -, growth ( coimnences [■ February The usual time of blooming summer or autumn early spring y summer y February wlicii new growth commences } February > spring ditto I] ) when growth !■ ) commeiiros | I ditto 1 ditto I early spring early summer early winter spring autumn From whence flower spikes appear, and whether on old or new growth base of new pseudobulb through bottom . or side of basket base of new pseudobulb ditto stem ; axil of the yrd or 4th leaf from the top base of new pseudobulb stem : axil of the 3rd or 4th leaf from the top stem ; axil of the 2nd or 3rd leaf from the top from base of new growth apex of new pseudobulb ditto ditto Whether showing spike directly growth is finished or otherwise spikes push soon after bulb is completed and grow slowly after rest when frrowth is nearly matured ditto as soon as growth is finished flower spikes come simultaneously with new growth when pseudobulb is completed after rest just before growth is finished The proper resting period, if any the winter months when growth is finished never inactive ditto Amount of water at the roots when resting ditto late winter ditto water sparingly ditto '' water sparingly during , winter water moderately only ditto Whether to winter or rest in Co"l. Intermediate or Warm House Interme- diate ditto Warm warmest end of Interme- diate I ^ Warm ditto keep moist to support flower spikes very litth: ditto ditto very litile indeed ditto Interme- diate Warm Interme- diate 158 ORCHIDS : now to grow them SlTCCESSFtJLLY. NAMES OF PLANTS VESTITA RUBRO-OCULATA . . LUTE'i-OCULATA X Veitchii Sandhurstt\na CATASKTUM Bunuerothii .. MACROCARI'UM SPI.KNDENS .. CATTLEYA Aclandi^ KLONGATA AMh.THYSTOGLOSSA BoWKlNOIANA DOWIANA Eldukado Gaskei.liana BIFRENARIA Harrisoni* .. BLETIA hvacinthina ,. -VERECONDA BOLLEAS BRASSIA CAUDATA MACULATA BROUGHTONIA sanguinea.. BURLINGTOXIA Candida .. DKCORA PIOTA VENUSTA CALANTHE masuca .. VBKATRIFOLIA GRANULOSA .. GUTTATA • Harrisoniana intermedia .. • LABIATA - Lawrenceana ■ loddigksii . . LUBIIDKMANNIANA (sI'ECIOSISSIMA) •MAKGINATA .. MAXIMA Mkndblii MOSSIAK Percivaliana Skinneri Whether to Rrow in Cool, Intermediate, or Warm House Rex no 116 115 135 135 ( Interme- ( diate Cool Warm ditto ( Warm - Interme- ( diate Warm I Tnterme- \ diate ditto 13(5 136 96 116 14-2 90 136 96 136 135 Interme- diate Interme- diate { Warm - Interme- ( diite I Interme- ] diate [^ Interme- diate Warm Interme- diate Whether preferring a shady, sunny, or paitial sunny position partial sunny shady partial ditto ditto shady partial )- partial partial Whether best { grown in bai-kecs or pan- a"d snspendtd.or I in p"ts on the stage baskets or blocks baskets or pots ditto ditto blocks baskets or pans partial pots baskets or pans ditto I pots blocks (^ baskets I or pans I baskets t or pots pots [ baskets ( or pots pots ( baskets 1 or pans ^ baskets I or pots I baskets \ or pans baskets or pots orchids: how to grow theh successfully. 159 The best time to repot or top-dress The nsual time of blooming summer spring J after ( flowering ditto ditto ditto ditto •r ditto fter flowerin} spring summer spring spring or alter flowering spring or after flowering spring autumn early summer ditto early summer summer and autumn ( twice in i summer late summer spring autumn spring autumn summer ( summer I and ( autumn autumn 1 autumn < or (summer summer spring autumn spring summer I after ! autumn flowering ] < and I (summer spring winter rftcr flowering summer 1 I autumn """■"- °r [ summer From whence flower spikes jippeur, and wiittber on old or new growth base of old pseudobulb base of new pseudobulb base of last made growth side of new pseudobulb J apex of ( new pseudobulb base of new pseudobulb centre of new growth base of new pseudobulb top ■- of new growth Whether showing spike directly gruwih is finibhed or otherwise directly pseudobulb is completed when growth is completed after rest ditto before rest when growth is finishing ditto when pseudobulb is finished directly after rest directly directly after rest after short rest after rest directly The proper resting period, it any winter ditto never inactive winter ditto never inactive ditto ditto ) never "( inactive y winter never inactive >- winter [_ never I inactive ( after "( flowering winter Amount of water at the roots when resting Whether to winter or rest in Cool, tuiermediate or Warm House very little ditto ( water '. carefully (in winter very little ditto ditto keep on the dry side during winter very little indeed Interme- diate Cool Warm ditto Warm Interme- diate Interme- diate ditto Warm very little ; ditto I ditto ditto very little in winter very little water sparingly in winter -very little water ^-sparingly in winter Interme- Warm Interme- diate I Interme- i diate Warm Unterme- "( diate Interme- r lUate J Intermo- ( diate Warm 160 ORCHIDS : HOW TO GKOW THEM srCCESSFULLY. NAMES OF PLANTS CATTLEYA Scheobder.* TBIA.NAE velutina Walkeuiana Wakneui Warscewiczii (gigas) CHYSIS aubea bractescens Limninghei CIRRHOPETALUM Tholaksh .. COCHLIODA (mesospinidium) Noetzliana. sanguinea VULCANICA GIGANTEA CCELOGYNE cristata Day ANA fuscescens .. Massangeana Sandeuiana.. speciosa COMPARETTIA falcata MACROPLECTKON' CORYANTHES macrantha CYCNOCHES CHLOuocJiiLON CYMBIDIUM EBUilNEUM gioantkum .. Lowianum .. Mastersii PENDl-'LUM X WiNNIANUM tCYPRIPEDIUM. ARGUS.. DARBATUM ■ BELLATULUM .. BOXALLII CALLOSDM ■ CURTISII ■ CnAMBERLAINrANlM •Dayanum • nRlIRYI ■ Kairieanum .. Haynaldiamim hirsuiissimum Hookers ■INSIONE javanicum .. ■ Lawrknoeanum Lowii .. NIVEUM PHILIPPINENSK PURPUBATUM Page 89 138 143 120 134 13;) 139 Whether to grow in Cool, Intermediate, or Warm Honse Interme- diate [ ditto ditto ^ Cool ( Interme ( diate Warm I Interme- l diate Interme- diate ditto ditto \ Interme- j" diate Cool ( Interiiie- "( diate - Warm [ Interme- I diate Warm ( Interme- "I diate Warm Cool (^ Interme- I diate Warm I liiterme- ( diate Warm \ Inteime- ^( diate Whether preferring a shady, sunny, or pariial sunny position partial partial ditto shadv partial ditto ditto ditto shady ^Miether best grown in I baslietB or pans and suspended, or in pots on the stage ) baskets ( or pots pots I basltets t or piin.s [_ baskets [" or pots baskets ( baskets "( or pans baskets \ pans ) or pots baskets or pots baskets or pans ditto pots t Tlie Hybrids are mostly omitted here owinc; to their gr^at number, the cultural requirements of the biok:—C".X Dominianum, "page 120; C. X lUrrisianum. page 103 ; and C. X Sedeni. page 119. Although mo3i other Orchids, a warm Intermediate house wouUl stiit nearly all of them admirably. ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUOCESSFCTLIiY. Itil Whether to The best time to repot or top-dress The uflUiil time of blooming From whence flower spikes appear, and whether on old or new growth Whether showing spike directly growth is finished or otherwise The proper resting period, il any Amount of water at the roois when resting winter or rest in Cool, Intermediate or Warm House ) after ) flowerin? spring 1. top ■' of new growth i- after rest ^ C spring ■< or after '\ directly water i flowering ; "-sparingly spring -summer _( Jbase "( new pseudobulb after rest >- winter in winter ^Interme- diate after flowering i apex "^ of new growth ; ) spring summer top of new growth directly > or after ) flowering and autumn ) very little / directly after flowering early spring from the new growth when starting after rest ditto ditto ditto spring summer or autumn base of previous year's pseudobulb ditto ditto ditto Warm after flowering spring 1 side of new pseudobulb after short rest ditto water sparingly Cool ditto >■ ditto 1- summer centre of very little indeed Warm ditto J-new growth when after rest ditto 1 Interme- 1 starting ( diate ) Warm ditto ditto from new growth when growth is partly finished never inactive water sparingly in winter Interme- diate ( when growth ■( commences ( in spring ditto base of new pseudobulb C base and side of when growth is partly finished winter very little Warm Interme- diate ditto ditto spring \ newly ( made pseudobulb ditto ditto ditto ditto winter after flowering summer winter summer spring ditto !• summer spring ' side of last [made pseudobulb ditto ditto water sparingly Interme- diate Warm or ditto Vsummer ) - ditto Interme- diate 1 Interme- autumn ^ centre of last formed growth when growth is never r diate Warm ( Interme- > spring finished inactive ) ) diate summer Warm directly winter water Cool after ^ ■sparingly ) Interme- flowering '-summer spring in winter )" diate Warm (Interme- "^ diate Warm winter / / ( Interme- 1 diate which can easily he gleaned by the requirements of their parents. The following are mentioned in some are marked Warm, Intermediate, and Cool, Cypripediums are really not so impatient in this respect as X Flowers every alternative year, instead of making a pseudobulb. 162 OBCHIDS: HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. NAMES OF PLANTS Page cypripedium eothschildianum Sanderianum Spicerianum Stonei superbiens venustijm _;: villosum caricinum caudatum longifohum schlimii ROEZLII CYRTOPODI tJM PUNCTATUM . . DEXDROBIUM aogregatum.. X AlNSWORTHII AUKEUM (HETEROCARPUM) BARB AT I'M BENSONI/E bigibbum Brymeriantjm CAPILLIPEM CHKYSANTHUM CHaysoToxuM crassinode crepidatum orystallinum Dalhousieanum Dearei densiflorum ■ Devonianum ■ X Dominianum ■ Fai.coneri .. ■ Farmeri ■ fimbriatum . . - FiNDLAYANUM ■ pobmosum giqanteum - infundibulum - Jamesianum .. - X Leechianusi - LlNAWIANUJI - LiruiFLouum 104 143 120 122 122 LUTEOLUil MacCabthijK M08CHATUM . . .SOBILE.. Parishii Phal^nopsis Scbkucdkrianum ■ PlERARDII PBIMUI.INUM .. LODDIGESII ... BANOUINOLE.NTUM . .SOAVISSIMDM . . ■ SCPEItBIENS . . •aUI'ERBIM .... Whether to grow in Cool, iDtermediate, or Warm Honse Whether preferring a shady, sunny, or partial snnny position 133 122 125 125 141 y Warm ( Interme- t diate Warm \ Interme- \ diate Cool \ Interme- I diate Warm ( Interme- \ diate Warm ditto V shady Intermediate )- partial >■ Wann Whether best grown in baskets or pans and 8aspended,or in pots en the stage pots / pots or I baskets blocks baskets 1 baskets f or pans ( baskets \ or pots I baskets I or pans ( baskets I \ or pot-. I f baskets ■) or pans I baskets "^ or pots baskets or pans blocks ( basket.s I or pans pots I baskets j or pan.s {baskets or blocks baskets or pans pots The most suitable compost peat and sphagnum with a little fibrous loam peat and sphagnum V ditto ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SrCCESSFULL-y. 103 The btst time to repot or top-dress directly after flowering ditto [ ditto spring May >• spring early spring I )■ spring snramer May ^ spring about May ■ spring The usual time of blooming spring summer f-SllI winter spring r spring ditto ditto ) winter ) and spring spring May autumn |- spring autumn spring ( winter 1 and spring spring summer spring ( winter \ and spring From whence flower spikes appear, and whether on old or new growth centre of last formed growtli J ( from, and - simultaneously 1 with, new growth ) sides of previou-- ,- year's ) pseudobulb on last made pseudobulb / winter \ nnd spring aiitumn y May \ winter /and spring spring / winter \ and spring y summer / winter \ and spring May autumn autumn spring y new pseudobulb ( previous year's "( pseudobulb !-new pseudobulb old pseudobulb new pseudobulb previous year ; pseudobulb ■ new pseudobulb previous year s pseudobulb ■ new pseudobulb previous year s pseudobulb I }- new pseudobulb J old pseudobulb previous year's pseudobulb last made pseudobulb [■new pseudobulb {previous years pseudobulb Whether showing spike directly growth is finished oi otherwise when growth is finished when starting to grow after rest before rest after rest before rest before rest after rest before rest The proper resting period, if any never inactive ditto / never I inactive winter Amonnt of water at the roots when resting water sparingly in winter very little indeed ►■very little 1 J u iv before rest I new pseudobulb [ ^fter short rest Whether to winter or rest in Cool, Intermediate or Warm House :- u arm j Interme- ( diate Warm ^Interme- ) diate Cool ) Interme- )" diate Warm ( Interme- "i diate Warm ditto ditto l_ Interme- i diate Warm _ Interme- diate Interme- diate '. Interme- ( diate Warm (.Interrae- I diate }- Warm llnterme- f diate Warm I Interme- \ diate I Warm 164 ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. NAMES OF PLANTS DENDEOBIUM thvrsifixjrum TORTILE tra.n sparens Wabdianum DISA grandiflora EPIDENDRUM atropurpureum BICORNUTUM NEMORAIE X O'Brienianum .. prismatocarpum . . vitellinum Wallisii EULOPHIA GUINEENSIS GALEANDRA Devoniana .. NIVALIS HABENARIA CARNEA MILILARIS HOULLETIA Brocklehurstiana L^LIA ALBIDA ■ ANCEPS.. AUTUMNALIS.. BOOTHIANA CINNABARINA CRISPA . . Day ANA • DiGBYANA FLAVA . . FURFURACEA GLAUCA HAKPOPHYLLA MAJALIS Perrinii purpurata . . SUPEUBIESS .. TENEBROSA .. • XANTHINA LEPTOTES BicoLOR LYCASTE AKOMATICA CRUENTA Deppei gtgantka PLANA .. Skinneri 126 85 85 134 135 106 lOi) 133 135 182 Whether to grow in Cool, Intermediate, or Warm Honae Cool frame Interme- diate i Interme- f diate Cool Interme- diate Warm Interme- diate A\"arm / Interme- 1^ diate ditto Cool Warm Interme- diate Interme- diate 133 13S Whether preferring a shady, sunny, or partial sunny position partial shady sunny partial sunny partial shady partial ditto sunny partial sunny partial sunny partial sunny partial partial Whether best grown in baskets or puns and suspended, or in pots on the stage / pots or (^ baskets ^ pans or ' baskets pots pans or baskets pots 1^ pots or I baskets pots ( pans or \ baskets ditto ditto ditto ] pans or ) baskets pots or baskets I pans or baskets pots or baskets pans or baskets The most Boi table compost peat and sphagnum peat, sphagnum and »and peat and sphagnum peat, loam and sphagnutu peit and spliagnum peat, sphagnum and loam peat and sphagnum \ baskets ] ;" or pots ! pots or I baskets f pans, A baskets \0T blocks pots or baskets >- ditto ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. IGo Tbc best time to repot or top-dress May / November \ or spring immediately after flowering spring summer after flowerinj C March or -| after I flowering spring ditto ditto ditto after flowering j- spring / spring or (. August spring after flowering after flowering spring \ after j flowering ditto f directly ! new growth ■{ commences or after l^ flowering \ after / flowering The usual time of blooming May winter and spring August I )-summer I ; autumn ditto ditto spring winter summer spring summer autumn spring /spring or ( autumn spring winter y spring autumn summer winter early spring I spring From whence flower spikes appear, and whether on old or new growth previous year s pseudobulb new pseudobulb centre of new growth top of new growth base of new growth top of new pseudobulb centre of new growth base of new pseudobulb /-top of new bulb ditto i-base of new bulb Whether showing spike directly growth 13 finished or otherwise on completion of growth after short rest / when growth is t finished after short rest /on completion of (. growth after short rest / on completion of \ growth before rest ditto ditto after rest I }- before rest I / J- after rest before rest after rest before rest after rest before rest after rest before rest after rest simultaneously Willi new growth The proper restinR period, if any growing steadily throughout , winter winter never inactive never inactive winter never inactive winter ditto ditto ditto ditto never inactive never inactive ditto Amount of water at the roots when resting very little water very moderately very little water moderately very little water moderately very little water moderately very little ditto ditto ditto water moderately )-very little / water \ carefully [-very little water carefully very little Whether to winter or rest in Cool. Intermediate Interme- diate Cool / Interme- \ diate Warm [ Interme- f diate Cool flntermo- \ diate Warm (Interme- \ diate Warm ditto Interme- diate ditto Warm Interme- diate Warm Interme- diate ditto IGG orchids: how to grow them successfully. Names of plants MASDRVALLIA amabilis X Chelsoni .. Chimera Shuttleworthii Harryana .. ■ Davisii • Houtteana .. ■ IGNEA .. • POLYSTIOTA . . ■ JlBlCHENBACHIAN > ■ KOSEA . . - SCHLIMII tovarensis . . Veitchiana AVaoeneriana MAXILLARIA grandiflora Sanderiana MILTONIA Clowesii .. Phal^enopsis HiiEZLir spectabilis . . . . vexillaria .. Warscewiczii MOKMODES LDXATUM.. EBUBNEUM PARDINUM ODONTOGLOSSUM X Andersonianum BICTONIENSE . . BLANDUM Cervantesii , • cirehosum ■ citrosmum ■ X Cobadinei • COBDATUM - CORONABIUM ■ CRI«PUM • Edwardii Hallii Habryanum.. ha8tilabium Insleayi leopabdinum splendens • LlNDt-EYANUM ■ LUTEO-PURPUKKtiJI. ■ maculatum .. • nebulosum . . •odoratum • Pkscatorei . . ■ polyxanthum ■ i'ui.chei-lum . ■ ramosissimum - ROSSII MAJUS 131 84 140 lio 129 ]30 79 104 130 Whether lo grow in Warm House Cool Interme- Uiate Cool Interme- diate Cool Interme- diate Cool Interme- diate AVarm Interme- diate Warm ditto Cool Interme- diate Cool 129 130 130 Interme- diate Cool Interme- diate Cool Whether preferrinB a shady, sunny, or partial snuny position )■ shady > ditto shady Whether best grown in baskets or pans and suspended, or in pots on the stage I pans r or pots baskets ( pans or ( baskets pots ( pans ) or pots f pans or \ baskets \ pans / or pots i pans or f baskets I pans I j" or pots ! pots I ( pans or \ Daskets pots pots or baskets pans, baskets or pots pans or baskets V pots pans pots baskets y pots baskets pots The most suitable compost I peat and I sphagouDo^ ditto ditto ditto ditt» pans or baskets orchids: how to grow them successfully. ]G7 The best time to repot or top-dress The Dbiial time of bloomJLg spring y and February, or after flowering summer J C winter \ and spring ■1 spring !• and j summer r autumn and (^ winter spring after flowering summer j' autumn spring and \_ winter 1 autumn (_ after I flowering when growth is starting, from March until September late winter various I summer spring summer spring autumn spring winter spring summer various J- spring various early spring I early "( iiutuinn I winter (aud spring ( early \ autumn summer "I late / autumn various ( winter ' "I and spring spring summer spring various - spring early spring spring From whence flower spikes appear, a.iid whether on older uew growth base of last made leaves I base of ; new pseudobulb Whether showing spike directly growth is finished or otherwise simultaneously with new growth base of last made pseudobulb base of newly forming pseudobulb v_base of last made [ pseudobulb ; centre of new growth ^ base of last made I pseudobulb ( base of previous ^ year's pseudobulb ibase of last made [" pseudobulb side of new growth I base of fnew pseudobulb side of new growth ( base of Inew pseudobulb ditto before rest The proper restlng^ period, if any never inactive ditto ditto never inactive winter I never I inactive winter 1 never / inactive autumn ) never t inactive never inactive never inactive never inactive Anionnt of water at the roots when resting water carefully in winter Wuether to winter or rest in Cool. IntermediHie or Wn rni House Warm end of Cool Interme- diate ditto water sparingly liuring winter I water ^sparingly i in winter I very dry water sparingly very dry water sparingly very little water sparingly water -sparingly in winter Interme- diate I Warm 1^ Interme- l' diate Warm Interme- diate Cool I Interme- I diate }- Cool I Interme- \ diate Cool I Interiiie- r diate 168 ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. NAMES OF PLANTS ODONTOGLOSSUM X Ruckerianum tripudians triumphans Uko-Skinneri ONCIDIUM AMPLIATCJM • Cavendishianum CHEIROPHOKUM CONCOLOR CRISPUM • CUCULLATUM . ■ CURTUM ■ FLEXUOStJ.M . • FORBESII ■ hastatum ■ jonesianum .. Kramerianuim ■ Lanceanum . . • LUKIIjUM • macranthum ■ Marshallianum .. ■ ornithorhyscuum ■ Papilio ■sarcjodes - sphacelatum - SPLENDlriUM .. - TIORINUM VARICOSUM . . PAPHINIA ORISTATA GRANDIFLOUA PERISTERIA ELATA PESCATOREAS PHAIUS ORANDIFOLTU* TUBE110UL08U8 Wallichii PHAL^NOPSIS AMABILIS (syn. qrandiflora). aphrodite .. lueudemanniana . . Sandkriana SOHILLEltlANA SPECIOSA STUARTIANA VIOLACEA PILUMNA TRAGRANS .. PLATYCLINIS Cobbiana FII.IKORMIS .. GLUMACEA Whether to grow in Cool, Intermediate, or Warm House 142 131 80 130 131 127 Cool Warm Cool 137 ( Interme- '^ diate y Warm j- Cool ( Iiiterme- \ diate Warm f Intermc- "i diate Warm - Cool Warm ditto S ditto V ditto Interme- diate Whether preferring a shady, eunny, or partial sunny position shady partial }■ shady sunny shady shady partial sunny shady ditto partial shady ditto ditto partial ditto Whether best grown in baskets or pans and suspended, or in pots on pots baskets ( baskets ( or pots baskets or pans J pots f baskets 7^ or pans ( baskets ( or pots blocks (blocks or \ baskets baskets pots (^ baskets I or pots ( baskets tor blocks 1 baskets \ or pots pots ( baskets \ or pans ( baskets t or pots ( baskets \ or pans ditto pots ( baskets \ or pots pots f baskets \ or pots pots baskets pots or baskets ditto The most snitable compost peal and sphagnum ditto f peat, sphagnum l_ and loam sphagnum r peat, -: sphagnum \, and loam peat and sphagnum { peat, ■f sphagnum I and loam sphagnum peat and sphagnum ditto orchids: how to grow them: SUCCESSFTJIiLY. -169 Whether to The best time The usual From whence flower Whether showing The proper Amount of winter or to repot time of spikes appear, and spike directly resting period, water at the rest in Cool, or top-dress bloomiog whether on growth is finished or if any roots when Intermediate old or new growth otherwise resting or Warm House when growth j winter ^ is starting, ( and spring , base of 'new psendobulb Water from March until spring early spring before rest never inactive sparingly in winter Cool September autumn summer summer \ ] winter \ Warm ( Interme- )■ spring 1 ( autumn -[ and J t winter \ diate summer late spring - Cool Warm autumn summer \ spring > summer ^ summer 'base of new bulb spring autumn Cool summer > summer if growing, Jlnterme- ( diate 1 )- Warm 1 J \ Cool - spring 1 ; summer various V summer ) from new growth spikes are ^produced shortly after pseudobulb is completed a short rest whenever inactive or otlierwlse, water sparingly during winter spring or i,^ J autumn winter various flnterme- '( diate \ Warm (Interme- 1 \ spring )-base of new bulb - spring J \- autumn 1 \ diate 1 Warm - Cool 1 J J J ditto ditto spring ditto ditto ditto ditto Warm ditto summer ditto after rest winter very little ditto after flowering ditto ! early \ spring base of last made growth when growth is completed never inactive C water -j carefully \\a winter ditto early spring soon after bulb is completed a short rest spring 1 Vbase of new bulb 1 whenever inactive water sparingly ditto summer spring ( autumn and \. winter J spring spring autumn - axil of leaves wlien last leaf has formed a short rest after ditto ditto winter flowering sjiring winter summer ditto spring ditto after rest winter ditto Interme- diate ditto summer centre of new growth ditto ditto ditto ditto 170 orchids: how to grow them successfully. Whether Whether best Whether preferriog grown in to grow in Cool, Intermediate, a shady, baskets or The roost NAMES OF PLANTS Page Bunny, or partial pans and suspended, or suitable compoit Warm House sarin; liosition in pots on the stage PLEIONE HUMILIS Cool partial LAGENARIA 131 1 Cool or !- Interine- v_ pans or peat, spiiagnum MACUUTA 132 sunny I baskets VValliohiana 1 diate and loam ■ Eeichknbachiana RESTREPIA ANTENNIFERA — — ELEGANS ) with Mas- )' devallias shady ditto peat and moss SA.CCOLABIUM ampullaceum \ [■ baskets 'I BELLINUM Blumei 139 }- Warm ditto j baskets "( or pots sphagnum CUUVIFOLIUM baskets moss GIOANTEUM \ baskets / or pots VIOLACEUM 1_ Interme- [ diate ! peat and [sphagnun* SCHOMBURGKIA superbiens pots sunny TiBICINIS J baskets 1 J SOBRALTA Liliastkum 1 loam and peat -MACRANTHA . lii V ditto partial pots XANTHOLEUCA 138 j ^OPHRONITIS GKANDIFLORA -VIOLACEA 83 Cool ( Interme- ( diate - shady baskets or pans peat alld sphagnum SPATHOGLOTTIS AUKEA I Warm baskets peat, FORTUNEI partial or pots sphagnum ViEILLARDI j and loam STANHOPEA eburnea I ditto INNIGNIS OCIJLATA 142 142 ditto baskets peat and sphagnum T10K.1NA 128 , STENIAS ditto shady f baskets ( or pots sphagnum THUNIA ALBA |_ Interrae- 1 diate peat, Bi;nsoni.e sunny pots sphagnum Marsiialliana li2 and loam TRICHiJl'ILlA cuisPA I ditto marginata SUAVIS 137 partial pots or baskets peai ana sphagnum TORTILIS TRICHOSMA SUAVIS ditto ditto ditto ditto VANDA Amksiana r rather 1 wanner than ^ ^ ditto \ 1 COERULEA 137 1 Interme- (^ diate C(ERULESOENS insignis Kimballiana .. 84 ) Interme- t diate Cool i- ditto pots baskets ! sphagnum moss Sanderiana \ Intenne- j diate f pots or 1 baskets SUAVIS '. 137 J pots TERES Warm sunny blocks - WARSCEWICZELLAS ditto shady f baskets ") or pots ditto ZYGOPETALUM x Clayi ] ) , peat and CKINITUM Mackayi 113 1 Interrae- r diate partial - pots loam ( rafts or peat and maxillarb J ") baskets sphagnum orchids: how to grow them successfttlly. 171 The best time to repot or top-ilress The usual time of blooming directly after flowering spring ■early spring spring after floweriuj spring wlien starting to grow, usually in spring early spring after flowering early spring after flowering spring winter [■ autumn ditto spring From whence flower spikes anpear, anil whether on old or new growth ! centre f of new growtli top of new and old. pseij^obulb after flowering I 1-early spring J ■ winter ( autumn and ( winter ( early (summer usually during the summer usually during the late summer montlis summer ditto late spring spring late spring early spring spring autumn spring late spring early spring ( late (summer spring summer ditto various winter from stem or axil of the 3rd or 4th leaf from the top top of new pseudobulb top of new stems top of new pseudobulb base of last made pseudobulb base of last made growth top of new pseudobulb I base of last made r pseudobulb { top of last made ( pseudobulb I frrim stem or axil '-OI the 3rd or 4th leaf from top base of last made growth base of new growtli Whether showing spike directly growth is linished or otherwise ditto before rest after short rest ditto when growing again when growth is completed before rest after short rest when growth is completed after short rest The proper resting period, if any never inactive ditto never entirely inactive Amount of water at the roots when resting water sparingh during winter Whether to winter or rent in Cool, Intermediate or Warm House Cool I Interme- r diate j'lnterme- I diate, or 'j with Mas- ' devallius never inactive short time after flowerinj ditto never inactive ditto ditto winter, j-requires bwt ,' little test never inactive very little water si>aringly during winter ditto very little \ carefully ' I in winter I very little indeed very little water sparingly during winter very little f water - carefully V^in winter water sparingly duritg winter warm Interme- diate Interme- diate warm end of Cool house Interme diate ditto I ratlier I warmer j than In- l^term'd'ie I Interme- '" diate ditto Interme- diate 172 ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFUIXT. QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS. R. L., South Wales, asks : — What is the proper treatment of Odonto- glossum crispum ? I have been told that, like many other Cool Orchids, it requires only a cool frame to grow in and does well when planted out, but under cold frame treatment the leaves of my plants are turning yellow and the plants appear to be dying. Reply. — The attempt to grow Orchids in a cold frame or pit invariably ends in wretched failure, and could only be done with any chance of success by someone who thoroughly understands the treatment they require. For a few months during the summer Odontoglossums will do fairly well in a frame facing the north if they are in pots and placed on a stage or inverted flower pots. The planting-out system is a wrong one, and when done the plants should be taken up in March or April and place them in rather small pots, when they get established quicker than in large ones. D. A. asks : — I should much like to know the proper time of the year when Lselia purpurata should be repotted, and what is the best compost to grow it in ? Also the best way to make established plants of newly imported Odontoglossum crispum. Reply. — Laelia purpurata should be repotted any time immediately after it has done flowering, which is about the beginning of June, and then it vn]l again start into growth. The plants always shrivel more or less after rejKjtting, according to its state of health, but soon recover. Repot the plants about once in two or three years, the pots well drained to half their depth, using clean crocks, larger ones at the bottom with smaller at the top. Then pot in fibrous peat and sphagnum moss in etpial proportions. The best way to establish newly imported Odontoglossum crispum is at first to treat them very carefully, otherwise many may not recover from their long journe3^ being generally in a very shrivelled condition. Directly the plants are received all dead loaves and old useless matter should be cut away and decayed roots trimmed, the plants then placed upon a layer of damp sphagnum moss placed on the stage of a cool house, placing them one against the other in an upright position. The moss must be kept moist, avoiding watering the plants overhead until reaction has set in. When the bulbs have plumped up and new roots begin to push out from the base, then pot the plants in the usual ct)uipost of peat and sphagnum, in rather small pots, and tlien treat as established plants. The plan of placing newlj-- imported Orchids in dark places under the stage, or susjiending them head downwards, as is sometimes done, cannot be too strongly condemned. The plants, however, should be protected from strong light for the first few days until they are more accustomed to it. A. B., North Devon, writes : — I should very much like to see in print a reply dealing fully with, the hygrometer ; for instance, should it not always unCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. 173 register over saturation point in the Odontoglossum house ? In such a house with a north aspect it is a simple matter (at least in winter) to remain at saturation point, and that does not seem to me to be moisture enough in the air for this class of plants, as they dry so quickly, owing I suppose to the amount of ventilation they get. Then the Cattleya house seems to me to do better when never quite reaching saturation point. Here we live on the top of a hill, and the air is very pure and the sunlight strong. The Cattleya house to-day (January 8th) has reached 90° of sun heat, and it is impossible to ventilate too freely as there is a cold north wind ; of course the hygrometer under such conditions registered about 8° or 9° of dry heat. It would be a great help if you could let me know what is best to be done under such circumstances. I do not like to shade yet, as I imagine sun heat is so very beneficial just now to the Dendrobes, which are resting in the Cattleya house. The East India house, where I keep most of the Cypripediums, never ranges more than 3° from saturation point, and being next to the Odontoglossum house it does not get so much sun as the Cattleya house. I have used leaves on the lower stage as you recommend, and I have a long narrow tank containing four inch pipes and is kept full of water to counteraat the effects of the large hot water pipes above, so that I have moisture above and below the hot water pipes, also a huge tank along the centre of each house below the centre stage ; still I find it hard work in bright weather to keep the Cattleya house at all moist. If you could state the variations near about what the hygrometer should register for the different months, it would be a great help to many. Reply. — The hygrometer is an instrument, the want of which in the cultivation of plants is so little felt amongst gardeners that very few possess them, and with that few the hygrometer may often be seen doing duty as a thermometer only, the wet bulb not being kept supplied with moisture. It is difi&cult to get the atmosphere beyond saturation point, and it is not advisable to try to do so. In the Odontoglossxmi house saturation point should be generally attained, or the nearer to it the better during the spring, summer, and autumn months. It is not possible to maintain it if the house is properly ventilated, and the hygrometer wiU stand about 3° below saturation point. In the winter it is easy to keep the cool house at saturation, but it is better if it remains for the greater part of the time at 1° or 2" below. In the other houses damp down freely, but the hygrometer will never stop at saturation long, nor is it advisable. Air is an important factor as well as moisture, and when air is admitted properly the wet bulb will stand at from 3° to 5^ below the dry one ; if lower, then there is not enough moisture in the house. In these houses during the winter I always damp down when the hygrometer shows 3° to 5° of evaporation, unless for a short time at mid-day. If the directions given in the Calendar of Operations for each month are acted upon, the hygrometer should register these figures. Water tanks are invaluable for the storage of rain water, but practically a body of water is useless for producing moisture unless made, by the aid of hot water pipes running through it, warmer than the tempera- ture of the house. ''Then moisture is produced in the form of steam, but this is a method I do not recommend, for if not managed very carefully too mucli steam is generated, which is very injurious. The best way to cause evaporation is to frequently syringe the paths, stages, and wall. 174 orchids: how to grow them successfully. A. G., Liverpool, asks : — What is the proper treatment of Oncidiutn Lanceanum ? Mine are in the Warm house, but fail to gi-ow satisfactorily, and the leaves are covered with black spots as in foliage I enclose. Repi.T.— This species seems peculiarly liable to this kind of spot, and greatly disfigures the handsome foliage. It is one of ihose Orchids which grow freely when jslaced in the right position. This spot is no doubt caused by a superabundance of moisture. It is a Hot-house Orchid, but should not be grown in that house regardless of position. It should be remembered that it belonsi.s to the stout-leaved section, and on that account can endure a good deal of dryness in the atmosphere. A posiiion which is dry and exposed to the light should be selected for it during winter, taking care not to over-water it. In summer it succeeds well if suspended with the Warm-house Dendrobiums. A Correspondent, G. W. B., Kent, asks six questions as follows, with my reply to each :— ]. — ^What are the general CO aditions of growth of an Oi-chid that should decide the cultivator whether a species should by preference be basketed or potted, besides the fact of its liking to be near the glass, or not ? Reply. — Orchids which really do best in pots or pans are those whose roots will not grow if exposed, unless the air is charged with an excess of moisture. The roots of Cypripediums, Odontoglossums, and similar kinds, generally make but little progress until they get beneath the compost, and when once there they show no inclination to reappear on the surface. On the other hand, Orchids whose roots show no special preference to hide themselves, and grow rapidly until coming into contact with some object upon which they speedily take a firm hold, are best \vith basket culture. Amongst the latter may be named Cattleyas, Lajlias, Phalaenopi^is, Aerides, &c., but there are exceptions to every rule. Such tall growing kinds as some of the Aerides. Vandas, Saccolabiums, and Angrsecums ; some of the Lselias also, such as fiurpurata, and varieties of elegans, harpophylla, cinnabarina ; also the tall growing Cattleyas, such as ilie guttata varieties, and Harrisoniae, intermeoia, and some of the labiata varietie-s, which are tall and heavy. Then there are also many tall growing Dendrobiums and others which could be mentioned, all belonging to the section of aerial rooting Orchids, which require to be placed on the stage owing to their great height. Pots are more convenient and answer the purpose better than baskets, for they are cheaper and answer equally well. Then any aerial roots which may penetrate the compost are more secure from the ravages of the various pests to be found amongst the plants. There are many Orchids which are suspeuded in baskets or shallow pans, simply because they are dwarf growing, and are thus brought nearer the light, such for instance as the small growing Masdevallias, Oncidiums, and Odontoglossums. the Pleioues, Sophronitis grandiflora, &c. 2. — In repotting plants that have not appreuiably increased in size, is it preferable to clean away the old material and pot up in the same size pot with fresh stuff, or to allow the old ball to remain and increase the size of pot ? Reply. — In repotting Orchids never allow the old ball to remain intact. Only one thing can possibly be worse, and that is allowing tlie old pot to be placed into a larger one and covered with new compost. I have seen this ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. 1 75 method adopted, and by those who ought to have known better. It is preferable to clear away the whole of the old material of the old ball, ajently separating it from the roots, so that in repotting the whole of the compost is fresh and sound. I do not wish it to be uaderstood that it is absolutely necessary that every par icle of the old material should be cleaned away at the risk of breaking or bruising or otherwise destroying the roots. Such a practice is to be deprecated. Unless a plant has increased in size it is frequentl}' advisable to repot into th-? same sized pot in new compost. Should there have been a decrease in size tben a smaller pot may be used. 3. — Should Orchids that are making new growth in the winter months be encouraged to do so freely, by keeping warmer or moister, or should the growth be allowed to proceed but sloicly? Reply. — Should an Orchid which naturally starts its growth in spring and completes it during the summer and autumn (such for instance as a Dendrobium or a Cattleya), from some cause or other be found struggling to do in the winter what should have been accomplished in the summer, then a little more help and encouragement should be given to it, and the plant should receive assistance. On the other hand, there are many Orchids which are naturally making new growth throughout the winter ; such as Lcelia purpurata, Odonto- glossums, Oncidiums, and others. Such should be allowed to proceed slowly in the departments recommended for them, assisting the plant to mature its growth in a sound, healthy condition, rather th n risk losing it by unduly exciting it into growth. 4 — When new growth and flowers are being developed at the same time, as for example in Dendrobium nobile, D. Wardianum, Odontoglossum citrosmum, is it better to repot or basket before the flowers are out, or after they are over ? Reply. — In most cases it is best not to disturb the roots by repotting until after the plant has flowered, although with some species whether repotting takes place before or after flowering is not so important. I, on one occasion, potted up some Cattleya Mossiae just before flowering, and they grew equally as well as others potted afterwards. Still it is best, with the exception of such Orchids as Anguloas and Lycaste aromatica, to pot directly after flowering. The two Orchids just named grow so fast, that before the flowers have faded the new growth and young tender roots have made such headway that if disturbed then, they receive a great check. Dendrobium Wardianum is the only Dendroba I know that may be potted before blooming. I have repotted these in December before the flower buds were too lar^-e, but never allowing that operation ti) interfere with their course of resting, as it is not necessary to place them in more warmth immediately afterwards. I also repot after flowering. 5.— Is there any remedy for preventing the entire decay of a Cattleya bulb when once attacked with mildew, arising from moisture and dampness in the sheath after blooming ; and what treatm-nt is advisable, besides proper ventilation and careful watering, to ensure the bulb from such attack altogether ( Reply. — Yes, by the complete removal of the decaying part, cutting it cleanly away from the top of the bulb as far as the disease has extended downwards, and afterwards scraping the wound with a knife to remove a little of the moisture. The treatment advisable as a preventive is to remove bodily 176 ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SDCCESSFULLY. the old flower stem and sheath immediately after blooming and slightly powder the wound with charcoal. This together with the air soon dries up the wound, and decay does not again appear unless the culture of the plant is greatly at fault. It is the autumn blooming species of the Cattleya which more strictly require this attention. 6. — What is the probable cause of Calanthe vestita oculata failing to throw flower spikes (after full sized bulbs have been formed), whilst C. Veitchii Ls blooming freely ? The Vestita oculata were grown singly in 60-sized pots ; the Veitchii in large pots with 3 or 4 plants in each — in other respects the treatment of both species was apparently the same. Reply. — I cannot understand the cause of this, and it is difficult to assign a reason why your Calanthe vestita oculata failed to flower after making full sized bulbs as it is generally so very free blooming. The flower spikes may have been injured and destroyed unobserved when very young ; or that the plant may have received a violent check which stopped all further growth. A large 60-sized pot is very small for a full-sized bulb of Calanthe vestita, and I advi.se the use of a 4 8 -size. W. T. O., Scotland, writes : — I think if you gave a little more information as to ventilation, esp>ecially as regards night veptilation, it would be useful. Also, I have this year had great trouble with the Cattleya fly. I never had it before and imagine it was introduced with some imported plants of C. labiata vera. A little more information on that hecLst would be welcomed. Odontoglossum grande and Miltonia vexillaria I cannot manage at all. I have only one house to spare for Orchids, an Intermediate house, but these two Orchids will not thrive although I manage Cattleyas all right. Reply. — Your first question will, 1 think, be answered under the heading of "Ventilation" by additional information given. The Cattleya fly is indeed a terrible pest. Should your plants be newly imported, look well into them and search for crippled growths or imperfect pseudobulbs, and examine them closely to see if the fly has been the caiise of the mischief. If so, a hole will be somewhere near the base of the crippled growth from which the fly escaped on reaching maturity. If no hole can be seen, and yet still a suspicion that the fly has been there, then give the suspected growth a wrench and it will invariably break owing to its being hollowed out by the grub. It does not follow that the live larvae is sure still to be in the plant, but it is probably so, and should be closely watched for. Too much caution cannot be exercised in buying established plants, for it has been in connection with the purchase of such plants that I once had a very narrow escape from a serious attack of the Catthiya fly, and I am afraid that plants are sometimes sent to sales wlien found to be affected by this insect, without any thought on the part of tlie sender as to the great risk to the buyer. I am not quite sure whether this pest is not sometimes bred ujx>n ill cared for pkvnts, not spontaneously. Your Intermediate house should grow Odontoglossum grande and Miltonia vexillaria quite well, but, perhaps, your pLants have got into bad condition, if so, do not let them bloom and repot into small pots. I have heard of a few lumps of ammonia placed under the stages being a great stimulant to restoring unhealthy plants to greater vigour, but am not a great believer in it. ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. 177 H. H., Leicestershire, asks : — Will you kindly give some information as to the cause of "siwt" in our Aerides, also Oncidium Lanceanum ; you will find leaves enclosed for your inspection. The temperature at night is 65° to 70", by day 70° to 75°, and we give side ventilation cautiously. Reply. — The leaves of the Aerides Fieldingi are in some places quite rotten and badly attacked by fungus, easily seen by the aid of a microscope, and resemble grains of white sand in masses. Evidently the plants are growing in too much heat and moisture and the stove temperature is too much for them. The warm end of an Intermediate house would suit them much better. As soon as the decay is noticed make incisions with a knife on the parts aflfected and put in a little slaked lime. The compost during the winter should not be kept too wet. The leaves of Aerides odoratum have been greatly afiFected by yellow thrip and the leaves are quite yellow from this cause, not by old age. See that your plants are freed from this dangerous pest. The leaf of Oncidium Lanceanum is also affected by yellow or black thrip and is badly spotted, the surface of the leaf is in a very rough state from the action of these insects, not from the dreaded spot caused by wrong treatment. [See also answer to A. G., Liverpool, and W. A. G., S. Wales.] From F. A. B. W. — With all your careful appliances for the growth of Orchids, you can have no idea of the great difficulties encountered by many a poor amateur who loves Orchids but has only a cold vinery attached to his dwelling-house and has to employ a gas or oil stove to keep out the frost. You will say it is presumptuous of such a man to try to grow Orchids under such circumstances. It may be so, but what if the poor man is passionately fond of Orchids ? You know the old saying : " Fools step in where angels fear to tread." If a man does love Orchids, he will try to grow them. Do therefore help us with your advice. On page 144 of your book you give a list of Orchids which you say might possibly succeed. For the last half dozen years I have had out of that list, Dendrobiums — chrysotoxum, nobile, and thyrsiflorura ; Cattleyas —Mossaie, Mcnddii, and labiata autumnalis ; Ccalogynes — cristata Tnaxima and Massangewna ; Cymbidiums — ehumeum and Loufianum ; Cypripediums — Argus, barbatum nigrum, BoxaUii, Harrisianum, cardinal e, hirsutissimum, insigne alho marginatum, Sedeni, punciatum, vioUiceum, Leeanum superbura, Spicerianum, v-Hlosum and venustum. Those in italics are either in flower or bud at the present moment (Jan. 10th). Besides these I have a good many other kinds that you do not name in the list on page 144. I give you my lovjcst night temperature from January 1st 39°, 2nd 44°, 3rd 44°, 4th 45°, 5th 45°, 6th 44°, 7th 45°, 8th 44°, 9th 45°, 10th 42°. I also give you my highest day temperature for the same period — January 1st 44°, 2nd 52°, 3rd 50o, 4th 49°, 5th 48°, 6th 50°, 7th 48°, 8th 50°, 9th 49°, 10th 46°. I generally have from six to ten or twelve plants in bliwm every month of the year. For those fortunate persons who can keep a very lorcest minimum of 50° your list might be largely increased. I had a plant given to me last spring of Oncidium sphacelatum which had been growing in a house with a minimum of 60° and kept dry and shivded for some years and it did not bloom. Since it came into my possession it has been kept moist and light, and last year all the 178 ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. sunshine it could get. It grew well and has thrown up half-a-dozen very fine growths, and is a veiy large plant, but so far I do not see any signs of bloom. Can you give any suggestions to ensure its blooming ? Reply. — I presume F. A. B. \V. means by "perfect appliances," hot-water apparatus instead of an oil or gas stove, together with a hose pipe and a good supply of water instead of a pail of water and a syringe ; more perfect ventilation gear, and so on. But these " perfect appliances " have not so much to do with successful cultivation as many may suppose ; some cultivators who have all the improved methods at hand still fail to grow their plants better than those who do not possess them. Perfect appliances are invaluable in saving labour, enabling one man to do the work of two ; but what the plants absolutely want is attention, and they invariably thrive if their wants are attended to. There can be no question that hot water pipes are important factors, but my correspondent has shown conclusively that Orchids can he successfully grown with only the aid of an oil stove as a heat distributor. I have the highest respect for his enthusiasm and pei-severance, e\'idently the result of much thought and careful attention. I have no doubt many Cypnpediums, especially those having the " insigne " blood in them, could be grown much older than they generally are. I have known some of our cold Orchids perish from cold, whilst Cypripediums insigne survived. Then again, as I have remarked in a preceding cha.pter, Orchids are strange plants, and even professional gardeners are often perplexed by their eccentricities. Some grow like weeds without one exactly understanding why, but the position the plant occupies has often much to do with its success or failure. A suitable position may be the direct result of some peculiarity in the structure, or from some other cause it may be almost impossible to obtain in another house. It seems evident that the position of the lean-to vinery is a suitable one for Orchids, probably in a sheltered jjosition and with other tidvantageous surroundings, all assisting the lamp or stove jiroduction of heat. The oil lamp would tend to produce a dry atmosphere so necessary for such a very low temperature, and at the same time it would not fluctuate so rapidly, as is often the case. There can be no doubt that when a greenhouse or vinery is built against a dwelling-house, with the great advantage of the back wall being so adequately protected from the outside atmosphere, with probably a little extra assistance from any fire places in the walls, an immense advantage is gained in plant culture. Oncidium sphacelatum often indulges in this free-growing non-blooming freak. It flowers best when the pot is full of I'oots and tlie growths are near the rim of the pot. You are giving it the correct treatment to cause flower spikes to appear. It should liave plenty of light, taking care that the sun is not too strong upon the plant so as to burn the foliage. When its growth is completed, give it rest by reducing tlie qufuitity of water. The flower spikes should soon be seen, as the blooms generally expand during the spring months. C. L. B., Staffordshire, writes : — I have just lost one of my best Cattleyas, and am utterly at a loss to account for the cause why one plant in a ([uantity should die, all the young growths being black and rotting, the others being quite healthy. Reply. — It is one of those troubles to wliicli Orcliid growers are liable. ORCHIDS: HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. 170 I am strongly of opinion that your plant ls affected with the Cattleya disease, and no one can give an absolute remedy for avoiding it. Such mishajjs, however, may be reduced to a minimum under the influence of good cultivatioii. With this object in view practical cultivators urge and adopt the buUding up of a healthy constitution in their plants as a most important matter. Orchids, like other plants, are liable to disease, and close attention to their requirements is the best means of checking disease, though it cannot be altogether prevented. This disease, wliieh causes the pseudobulb and leaves to turn black {see page 51) is no doubt a fungoid growth which is always present, but only attaclis plants when their constitution, by some means or other, has been weakened and an easy prey to it. [See also answer to H. H., Leicestershire.] E. B., London, asks if Cattleya gigas Sanderiana is tlie free-flowering variety, and adds "the new growths of my C. Gaskelliana are curled and do not grow." Reply. — As to the first question you may dismiss any idea that the majority of plants called C. gigas Sanderiana are in any way different to the original species. Doubtless the variety fii-st named Sanderiana was so named as jiossessing some extra merit, but I presume it was in consequence of some additional colour in the flower only. Both good and inferior varieties of this species are sometimes exceedingly shy bloomers. Replying to the second question, I adxdse my correspondent to be quite sure whether the Cattleya Fly is infesting his plant or not [see par/c 46). New growths of Orchids sometimes assume a crippled form and from no apparent cause, though fortunately the number is small. I have now a Cattleya labiata that makes a malformed yseudobulb every year, and on the last occasion £t bulb and flower sheath without a leaf. The most curious instance of malformation in a flower that I have had to deal with is a Cattleya Mendelii, which every year jjroduces onl}' a portion of a flower and always the same ; it is simply two large petals, nothing more, though the gi-owth of thi; plant appears to be perfect. I have been informed that the whole of a lot of imported jilants sold at an auction sale on one occasion possessed this deformity when bloomini;. C. F., Sussex, Avrites : — You will remember I wrote to you last year about a very fine variety of Cattleya citrina which received a notice in the July number of the " Orchid Review "— C. citrina aurantiaca. It has this season bulbs bigger than ever, and the plant has been in cultivation nine years, but only two years in my possession. I am growing it on a raft with a small amount of peat fibre, and suspended over a tank behind the door of an Intermediate vinery. I placed it in the stove close to the glass wlien the growths showed, so as to get them pretty well forward before dull weather came, and then removed it to the vinery. I am gro\ving my other plants of C. citrina in the same waj-, and the bulbs have advanced in size in each of the three seasons during which the plant has been in my possession. I seetn to have hit upon a position and treatment that suits them. I give them very little water, as the roots seem to me to go at the tips much more frequently when the plants are dipped often. Do you draw any distinction Ijetween Laeli.i 180 ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. anceps Williamsii and L. anceps Stella, as the latter is given as a synonym of the former in " Veitch's Manual ?" Reply. — You have hit upon the right position for successfully growing C. citrina, and your experience proves that it can be grown for many years without deteriorating. I have seen it do well for many years when suspended in a Cattleya house, but that has been in the country, where the air is clear and the maximum amount of light is obtained during winter. It is the darkness of winter, especially in large commercial districts, that is such a drawback to many of our Orchids ; and those from Mexico, of which C. citrina is one, suffer more than any, and that is why they are so difficult to cultivate in large centres like Birmingham, where the absence of sunshine is much more prolonged than in the country owing to the atmosphere being so charged with smoke, and sulphurous fogs frequently occur which slowly but surely kUl many trees and shrubs with a much hardier constitution than an Orchid. There are so many varieties of white Laelia anceps, all more or less distinct and pretty, and a number of different names have from time to time been given to them. Scarcely two can be found exactly alike, still not distinct enough to be named :is separate varieties. L. anceps Williamsii and L. anceps Stella are, I believe, very close together in appearance, the former having no colour on the lip and the latter only a slight suffusion of pink. The pure white form, which has not even any chocolate markings in the throat, is the most rare and expensive at present. There are short bulb and long bulb varieties, the latter bearing much longer and larger spikes of flowers. A. B., Ledbury, says : — I have several Cattleya Gaskelliana which have made their growth and formed their sheath, but show no signs of forming their spikes. Should I rest them now or keep them growing. I have one plant which has made its growth but no sheath ; should I rest this or let it go on with next year's growth ? Reply. — This question is answered in the reply to " H. B. E., Bristol." Generally speaking, a Cattleya having formed a sheath will flower, although sometimes failing to do so. Sometimes they will push a .spike without a sheath, and C Trianae, C. Mendelii, and C. Mossiae often produce flowers without a sheath, and on that account if the last new bulb is minus a sheath, care should be taken when cleaning the plants not to touch that particular point from which the spike should issue. In the case of C. (iaskelliana, should the spikes not push directly the pseudobulb is completed they will not do so, and the plant should not be kept wet and growing. A. B., Eye, asks : — I send you leaves of a Cattleya Eldorado which have gone wrong in my little forcing house. About ten days ago I noticed something was the matter with it Can you kindly inform me what you consider the cause of it, and what I am to do to stay others from being similarly affected. If otlicr plants get it what can I do to cure them ? Reply. — The pseudobulbs and leaves liave all the appearance of the Cattleya disease [see answer to C. L. B., Staffordshire], although in this case they seem to have died and speedily become quite rotten, which leads me to suppose the plant has by some means received a severe check from cold, by ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. Igl having too low a temperature, the plant at the same time being very wet. Is the compost in good condition ? H. B. E., Bristol, writes :^I think it would add much interest to your book if you could and would give us in the case of each plant : First, when it flowers, either during growth, as soon as growth is made, or after resting ; Second, where the flowers spring from, top, bottom, or side. To give an illustration of what I mean, Dendrobium nobile flowers aftei- resting. D. chrysanthum on new made growth ; D. bigibbum as soon as growth is finished. Again, with Cattleyas, an amateur loses many flowers for a year or two through not understanding which he has to rest, and which to keep growdng till the flower appears. To a beginner a knowledge of these matters would be a great help. Reply. — Thanks ; your suggestions have my attention and I have prepared a tabulated explanation of these little matters you regard as woith knowing {see page 146) with index. I may, however, say here that Cattleyas need not cause any uncertainty in the matter of flowering. If the bulbs are strong enough they nearly always push their flowers at the right season. If the proper time of flowering is directly the bulb is formed, the flower will push up before there is time for resting, and if not then, it will fail to do so altogether, and the plant should be treated exactly the same as those which have flowered. M. E. H., Devonshire, writes : — I have found your Orchid book of great service in every way, and I should like a list of Orchids given that require resting in a cooler house \vith little water. I have only one warm Intermediate house leading out of a greenhouse, and keep a good many Cool Odontoglossums and Masdevallias there, and they do not flourish, yet I am afraid to put them in the greenhouse. Your book gives so much information, but I thought a list of Orchids that must be rested in another house would be a great help. Reply. — There are so many Orchids that require resting in a cociler temperature, that your question opens up a very wide range of explanation as " resting " virtually apjilies to all Orchids which are inactive for a time, wliilst the Intermediate-house Orchids that require rest in another house are very few. It is easy to understand that your Cool growing Odontoglossums and MasdevaJlias would not do well in a warm Intermediate house, aJthough in such a house Intermediate Orchids can be grown perfectly well without moving tliem to another house to" rest. If the winter temperature was kept right, it would be cold enough, giving quite from 10° to 20° difference of temperature bflow tliat of summel. 'Jome Dendrobiums and many Cypripediums could also be grown in a warm Intermediate temperature, and a few of the former could be rusted in the greenhouse, such as D. nobile and D. Wardianum, but as a general rule, a cool greenliouse is too cold for wintering Intermediate or Warm Orchids. It is best to be very Ciiutious ;is to placing cool growing Orctiids in an ordinary greenhouse, for although the thermometer might indicate the proper degree of tenij)erature, still the atmosphere would be far too arid and harsh, and the conditions generally unfavourable to the Orchids, unless a raoister atmosphere was maintained in the greenhouse than is usual. Could you not partition a portion of the greenhouse off which could be kept moist ? 1S2 ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SCCCKSSFUI.LT. D. C. W., Suffolk, asks : — When the white fleshy rcx)ts of Orchids tjrow over the outside of the pots, what is their proper treatment ? In many cases my pots are quite large enough for the Orcliids, but their own roots will climb over, and after a time seem to wither, whereas those that keep on the surface of the pot do not, but keep on growing. I put all mine in pots after reading your remarks at page 39, and so do away to a certain extent \vith the risk of too great a change of temperature. Reply. — Where it is possible the roots should be guided or trained to penetrate the compost, doing so when the young points of the roots are close to the surface. Help is given by making holes in the compost with a small pointed stick, into which the roots enter more freely. When the roots grow over the rim and are a few inches long, they can often be brought on to the surface of the pot and pegged into position. Qdestion 2. — In potting Cypripediums you say, " pot just above the rim of the pot ; " so many writers say beloiv the rim. Can you give more fully your reasons other than probably the ob\dous one, that they succeed with you your way ? Reply. — It is frequently found that when the compost dries quickly the plants do well, but when it remains in a wet and sodden state the plants rarely do so well. Orchids are partial to a good supply of moisture at the roots, but it must pass quickly away. Cypripediums are not so impatient in this respect, yet they generally require a large supply of water, and in such a case the plant derives benefit from being slightly elevated above the rim, in consequence of not being so liable to be over-watered. W. A. G., South Wales, asks : — Could you tell me the reason of the enclosed leaves of Odontoglossum vexillarium turning the colour they have ? The plants have grown well in tlie Odontoglossum house during the summer ; the leaves came out luxuriantly but all crinliled in ridges, and then turned this brown colour. I have now got the jjlants in the Intermediate house, and they seem to be doing better. Reply. — The leaves of Miltonia (Odontoglossum) vexillaria are badly marked by yellow Thrip. The irritation caused bj^ these little pests by puncturing the foliage and feeding upon the sap of the plant was effected when the leaves were in a young and tender state, and the brown marks on the foliage is the result. Thrip always attacks the young growth, down the centres of which tobacco powder should be dusted. New growths often come crinkled in ridges, but ultimately become smoother. This crinkling, however, is not natural or desirable, and the leaves are sometimes affected in this way even when grown in an intermediate temperature, yet it occurs more frequently wlien the temperature is kept too cold or the roots too wet. You did well to remove the plants to an Intermediate house. ADVERTISEMENTS. 183 )-J. /v. Burberry^ Begs to announce that he has resigned his position as Orchid Grower to the Rk;ht Hon. Joseph Chamberlain, and is now carrying on the business of an " Orchid Specialist and Cultural Adviser." He undertakes — at the smallest possible charge — to visit collections if desired, so that tiie benefit of his long experience may be practically flemonstrated on the spot. He has a large stock of healthy Orchids at the lowest possible prices, lists of which he will be pleased to forward on the receipt of a Post Card. He is always \ ery pleased to correspond with Ladies or Gentlemen regarding their Orchids, and, if needed, to advise them as to the most likely sorts to select to best suit their respective houses, if a rough description of the latter be given. ADDRESS : H. A. BURBERRY, 109, ^raiuje IKoaD, Ikiiuj's Ibcatb, BIRMINGHAM. 184 ADVERTISEMEXTS. IF YOU WANT CARNATIONS AND PICOTEES SEND TO Mr. Robert Sydenham, Tenby Street. BIRMINGHAM. No one will serve you better or cheaper. HIS COLLECTION Is one of the best in the Kingdom, and he has been one of the most SUCCESSFUL EXHIBITORS For Several Years, At LONDON, BIRMINGHAM and MANCHESTER. He will send his List with a Short Article on their Cultivation, and other useful information, Post Free on Application. ADVERTISEMEXTS. 185 Every Orchidist should read Rn Illustrated Monthly Journal. ESTABLISHED IN 1893. THIS work is specially devoted to cultivators of Orchids, and is conducted on broad and independent lines as a general repertorium of informa- tion of every branch of Orchid lore. Among the subjects treated of will be found : — Descriptions of novelties — Records of Hybrids and Hybridisation — Notices of interesting collections — Portraits — Comprehensive cultural notes — Notes on Orchids in their native homes — Reports of meetings, and doings of the month generally — With a variety of other interesting matters. The Calendar of Operations is written by Mr. H. A. Burberry, F.R.H.S., Author of the " Amateur Orchid Cultivators' Guide Book." The Illustrations are prepared by photographic process, in order to ensure accuracy and the best results. The History of Orchid Hybridisation from its commencement appears in the first volume, and a coloured plate of Cypripedium Charlesworthii as a frontispiece. A series of articles on Orchids in the Jungle, by Major Gen. E. S. Berkeley, and on Natural Hybrid Odontoglossums, by Mr. R. A. Rolfe, A.L.S., have appeared, also accounts of numerous important collections, both in Eng- land and the United States. The Gardener's Chronicle says: — "The Magazine decidedly improves as it grows, and will be highly valued by Orchid growers. The history of hybridisation among Orchids will form a valuable record." The Journal of Horticulture says: — "No doubt the Orchid lierieiv will enjoy the patronage of a large number of Orchid growers. It is of convenient size, neatly bound in a slate coloured cover, and contains thirty-two pages of well printed letterpress." Garden and Forest says : — " A complete and accurate record of what has been accomplished during tlie year in the way of the discovery and introduction of new Orchids and the production of others by hybridisation, with good descriptions and figures of many of tliem, besides notes on interesting collections, and cultural directions by experienced writers." Price 6d. monthly, post fpee 7/- pep annum, payable in advance. Back volumes, unbound, 0/- eacli ; bound in cloth, T/O. Postal rates as over leaf. Communications and Orders should be addressed as over leaf. WHOLE.SALE AGENTS FOR THE TRADE : MARSHALL BROS., KESWICK HOUSE, PATERNOSTER ROW, LONDON, E.C. -d CT) '^ o ■o E o c o o I ^-^ o /. r^ CT) c:^ '^ . -^ ^ <>1 ^ ■^ 1— 1 > ^ ^ w Q l-H > *>. Oi O ^ S Q X ^ U ^ ^ ^ oo $ ^ '^ ^ .^ ^ ■I ■53 O k a s. o •a a E o ^ -^ f ?2 1 0) o Q. OQ ■a o +« 0 3 V o V ADVERTISEMENTS. 187 BY SPECIAL . . "fm^^m/^ip^^ TO H.R.H. THE \\h' . APPOINTMENT ^^m&^^ PRINCE OF WALES. HUGH LOW & CO., BEG TO NOTIFY THAT THEIR ENTIRE AND GRAND STOCK OF ©ReHIDS, Comprising iibout 20 Houses, mostly 150 feet in length, has now been transferred to their Newer Establishment at BUSH HILL PARK, MIDDLESEX, Where the favour of an inspection by all gentlemen inteiested in their culture is most cordially invited. Trains leave Liverpool Street (C.E.R.) at twenty-five and fifty-five minutes past each hour for Bush Hill Park Station. CLAY'S FERTILIZER. PRODUCES ALL FLOWERS, FRUITS, VEGETABLES AND FOLIAGE In the Highest Perfection. 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Waterway. o o o ^ k^ c o r-^ ■-' <^ :^^ TT O . ■^ . !)•- ,'-o o o '"■ n OS o o (M E-l lO OS 0-. '"' r-l F— j: X X X ^ O CD CO 1 " " ^ X X X to en OS ^J ?J i>> ■*" Illustrated Catalogue for 12 stanifjs. 192 ADVEBTISEITEXTS. I UiUlllUU I Good Healthy Plants at Moderate Prices. AMATEURS' WANTS A SPECIALITY. "■'A great number always in bud. Cut Bloom supplied. Hans Brochner, HESSLrE, East Yorkshire. Telegraphic Address-BROCHNER, HESSLE, YORKS. GHARLESWORTH & CO., ^ ©rchi^ Growers ant) 3mportcr6, == HERTON, BRflDFORD, yobks. SF»JECIALITIES: ODONTOGLOSSUIVl CRISPUM (Alexandras), pacho'^'type. Tliouscmds to select from. Established I'tants, and Nevhj Import'tl. CATTLEYAS, L^LIAS & L;ELIO=CATTLEYAS, '(;AmlTV CVPRIPEDIUMS, -^^^fN^^s^'H^Y^B'S^'^ Choice MASDEVALLIAS and interesting Botanical species. SEEDLING ORCHIDS & NOVELTIES . . A SPECIAL FEATURE. . . Catalogues on application. An inspection respectfully solicited. ALVERTISEMEXTS. 1 u-.i WRIGHT & HOLMES' PATENT GltflZlNG BAR. For Horticultural Bnifdiuf/s. C9 'S^^^iMH^^?:^ CO mmsi^ itASS: ( ' -^ C3 CO Section. A FTER many years experience with Horticultural Buildings and trials of " systems of glazing, we have found that this plan is the best yet discovered, and has answered admirablj' everj'where where it has been tried. Each bar is made in two parts and the lower lialf has a raised fillet in the centre and on each side of this fillet is a groove. The lower half is fixed at the top and bottom to the radial ribs with the grooves upwards, a copper clip is fixed at the lower end of the bar. the panes of glass are laid on with their edges coming up the side of the raised fillet, and, to prevent their slipping out of position, the copper clip is turned up and lies flat upon the upper surface of the glass. The cap forming the upper part of bar is grooved to fit the raised fillet of the lower portion of the bar. and the two are screwed firmly together, the glass being thus secured between ly the use of three sijuare -headed copper fcrews made specially for the purpose. The twoBalves when .screwed together form a watertight gutter from end to end. and should any water find its way in at the edges of the glass it runs down the grooves to the outside and cannot possibly find its waj* into the hotise. Illustrated Catalogue for 12 stamps. 1J»4 -\i»vki;tise.me\js. t. t* SI 2 OS Illustrated Catalogue for 12 stamps. ADyERTISEMEXTS. 195 ©ReHIDS. CLEAN HEALTHY PLANTS AT LOW PRICES, Many rai*e and choice varietiesm Always worth a visit of inspection. Kindly send for Catalogue. — ^ JHMES eVPHER, — EXOTIC N^URSERIES, CKEX^XEN^JI AIMT. NEW WORKS ON GARDENING. e_^ tjr^Cjr- •.=»- The Amateurs' Handbook on Gardening. A handy volume of 192 pages, brimful of useful information on Gardenino- matters, with articles on Roses, Chrysanthemums, Carnations, Begonias, Plants for an Amateurs' Greenhouse, &c., specially written for this book by eminent horticulturists. Price, in ciotii covers, 2 6 net. How to Grow Vegetables and Fruit for Profit and Exiiibition. By GEORGE GARNER, Silver Medallist for high-class Vegetable and Fruit Culture, and for many years a prominent and successful Exhibitor at the Leading Shows. It is a valuable Handbook for the Amateur, Cottager and Tenant Farmer, giving concise Hints on Growing, Marketing, Exhibiting, &c. Grapes. Peaches Tomatoes and Mushrooms have received special attention — these articles alone being worth all the money charged for the book. Price, in paper covers, 1/-; or in cloth, 1/6 net. Pubiislied by BLAKE & MACKENZIE, LIVERPOOL. May be obtained from all Seedsmen. 19(j ADVEUTISEMKXI'S. Ill Ui p 0 a H % u 0 ■% University of British Columbia Library DUE DATE .0.. „„ '**gPf>4i'^r..-?:.«'- = /AGRICULTURE - " -BQRfSTRY " - = I J.1BRARY- p.; 1 ■I. 1 '.■■; ' 1 1 1 1 1 J 1 1 1 -^g est p ^^^g 1 1 J .• .'1