Che Mimateur Orchid Cultivators’ Guide Mook. by A, BURBERRY, F.R.H.S. 2 Nett, ae i \ Aa. Ne A = ZA \\ « hy . ‘ ’ e 1% « 4 we ‘ —\: = 1 Na « 5; at 4 ry ih ie J « p t) f iis ‘ ly %K Pa6 ENEV YORK BOTANICAL CARIES oa JWVharn S| 5 THE AMATEUR ORCHID CULTIVATORS GUIDE BOOK. Hel AK ew YORE yy ANICAhs 1AR DEM BY mm. A): 6 BURBERRY, -F-R..-S:; eey ORCHID GROWER AT HIGHBURY, BIRMINGHAM (THE RESIDENCE or THE RicgHT Hon. JosSEPH CHAMBERLAIN, M.P.) CONTRIBUTOR OF THE FOLLOWING, VIZ.: THE YEARLY CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS ON ORCHID CULTURE FOR THE ‘‘OrRcCHID REVIEW,” 1894: THE ORCHID CALENDAR IN THE ‘‘ GARDENERS’ CHRONICLE,” 1892: AND THE **GARDENERS’ MAGAZINE’? ORCHID CALENDAR FOR THE PRESENT YEAR, ETC., ETC. o WITH ILLUSTRATIONS. LIVERPOOL: BLAKE & MACKENZIE, PRINTERS AND PUBLISHERS. 1894. (Copyright.— Entered at Stationers’ Hall. | ( - 7940 ‘ CLP EEA PEACL CRUEL ERE e <4 ' J @ ‘ He Ses . t ‘ ‘ ne serres xy of vay a POPP PAT THEY 64 J - ' ee r ke é . ’ . MMs ANy Mae oe: yr) ‘ 4 4 £ WAV asderet yates ot € ‘ + 7 a +. u . ‘ + i - it) wr * 4 5 , | ee A vat nv ek Sayrqagal ‘ ve ” % ida Pay» TER SER Aaa eee APR 231932 Lime Aw, mY YOwE BOTANICAL SARDEM INDEX. PAGES Introduction mS a - At = oe ae Artificial Heating ... ae Pd Me as ... I5—I9Q Atmosphere ... on as ad; rt ee ker 2a ae Shading: .... a = owe it ee oa! Big 22 Stoking the Fires ... a ey a ee ai 19 Température... er as a aie ae ws 24-—-27 Ventilation ... _ ete io Ma ss x yee Diseases of Orchids aie ve ef nae en 50 Excessive Heat... ; : _ sess aie ae Insect Life, Cleanliness, cal Beauties: ; ae ws 40—44 Manure Aid to Orchids ... is ae nor ja Gly Gz Protection from Cold during Winter. ... -... aor | G27 OS Watering and Resting... ee deg ww. 50—53 Desirable Positions for the Flaws Poe xe nie Sige as Fertilisation of Flowers for Seed a ie: «+ 47—50 Orchids from Seed... ead aa so Re ws 44—47 " in Bloom .. ; aan tea 55 Plants that may be Ghose qth Oneida gas ae Propagation .. : ak a wa 3G AO Potting and Bucket, Cattiyae 2 ~ 28, 29 " '" Odontoglossums Ce Oueras 29, 30 " " Cypripediums .,.., 2a ) el i ge eee EO Pee ay sn te = peeing ! a. 4 2 a + ae ae eae tos - " a E , v P ‘ . + ‘ * ee ee > ¥ ‘ i a s 2 cf “ors? | j ‘ , A é Zs i : r be . o ‘ ‘ . ; eit ? ' A eee e of 5 i ‘ ; f ‘ f t ¥ 5p" ‘ . & > a F ” Bri vest ‘ , , ae ‘ i , re ; Vis v0 f 4 ' . 7 ’ “ ‘ ig . y / oo a il c he A> “ { ‘ F | . A ¥ I that f vy 4 ] J ri . ry < aa k sf , . ’ Te * > > i 4 ifs 4 , : , . - a 7 zt nip al Me : . j ld a 3 ay: ¥ 7 A 7 J nl a 1 ‘ * ‘ ‘ 4 , r4 , 4 ' et i 4 was 7. Fi - me ‘ V6 * io t7, > awa ops ‘4 i ya * 7 7 fre ; i ‘ a Ty) ‘ ‘ ; i ae y ( Foxe gt ‘ f 4. My, ¥5 5 ‘Sid - M be ' . a ae Oe n> dy ro * ae rey hn h. een "Rk da EE (a at Amer Cit he Oy 0 stl teh Ra fee oe mart liege img apy. hos i = 5 ie ety ; : 2 LaPs aby . "i ¥ : > —_ Ye 4 J 2 , i 3 ee. et ars re, ; a a al “ve CMS De! Asale 1h Certateg es ORCHIDS: HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. 13 being two of the very best, should occupy a prominent position in every collection. These and other popular varieties may be purchased as strong imported or established plants; but by buying the latter in a healthy condition much time is gained, as the imported ones are slow in becoming established, and the others are purchaseable at almost any reasonable price; good plants of ordinary varieties selling at from 2/6 to 3/6 each, while as much as 50 guineas has sometimes been paid for a plant of an exceptionally fine or rare variety. It is best, therefore, to pay a reasonable price and start well with good plants. Fig. 7 represents an imported plant of Odont. Alexandre, a fair value being about 3/- to 5/-. Fig. 8 represents a semi-established plant, obtainable at a cost of from 5/- to 7/6. Odont. crispum, syn. Odont. Alex- andre, is a universal favourite, and is imported in very large numbers, finding a ready sale; but these, if strong and healthy, can seldom be purchased at lower prices than I have named. CYPRIPEDIUMS (The Lady’s Slipper). These are Orchids having no pseudo bulbs, and on that account are somewhat difficult to import and establish, but when successfully done they generally admit of easy culture. It is, however, best under all circumstances to procure established plants, and although very far from possessing the beauty and attractiveness of a Cattleya or a Dendrobe, still there is a great deal of beauty in them all—some much more than in others—and all are most interesting and of comparatively easy culture. The most common, and one of the oldest and the freest growing of all, is C. insigne, still ranking as one of the best, good plants of which, in 5-inch pots, represented by Fig. 9, capable of bearing five or six flowers, can be purchased at from 5/- to 7/6. There are many varieties of C. insigne, more or less expensive, according to the quality of the variety, but the typical form is handsome, and can be grown so easily. Perhaps the most interesting and distinct form of C. insigne is to be found in C. insigne, var. Sanderze, in which white and clear yellow colours predominate (this was purchased by Baron Schroeder for a large sum, and is now in his very fine collection). There are many other species and varieties of Cypripediums, nice plants of which may be secured at prices varying from 5/- to 20/-, whilst other rare species and hybrids are 14 ORCHIDS: HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. expensive. Cypripediums have now for several years held a prominent position and are established favourites; the diversity in colour of the various kinds, the interesting formation of their flowers, and their easy culture, having done so much to secure this popularity. There are now an extraordinary number of varieties of many species, it being quite easy by fertilisation to obtain seed and seedlings; and, in the hands of our hybridists, new forms, some of them of great beauty and distinctness, are yearly being added. MASDEVALLIAS. I now wish to say a few words about this very interesting family of epiphytal Orchids. This genus was named in honour of Dr. Masdeville, and is a very large one, there being upwards of 150 known species. Comparatively few species, however, merit cultivation for their beauty alone, although all are extremely interesting; and in forming a collection of them, many wonder- fully quaint and curious forms and colours will be found, some of the tints being very peculiar. Masdevallias are cool growing Orchids, and as many of them are of a very close, compact habit, they only require to be accommodated in small pans or in baskets suspended from the roof; therefore a large collection can be grown in a small space. A house which is in a sheltered position, both from strong winds and from the strong rays of the summer sun, suits them best, as then, a moist and regular temperature and atmosphere can be evenly balanced, such as is congenial to this genus. They grow freely if potted in equal parts of sphagnum moss and peat, with a little coarse sand mixed in to keep the compost porous and sweet; for strong growing kinds a little fibrous loam may be mixed in with advantage, and they should be given a position in the house not too far from the glass roof. Masdevallias under wrong treatment, such as over-indulgence in watering, being kept too dry, or when subjected to extreme heat or cold, refuse to make much headway—their leaves drop, the plant decays, and, having no pseudo bulbs, they quickly disappear ; but, on the other hand, they are very easily cultivated, if the house and treatment suits them. Such species as Harryana, Veitchi, and other similar strong growing kinds, are best grown in pots. The pots should be crocked for drainage to one-half their depth and the plants made moderately firm in the compost, as already indicated, ORCHIDS: HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. 15 using pots sufficiently large for the plants, and allowing an inch from the leading growth to the rim of the pot. In potting, the plants need not be elevated very high above the rim, or trouble may be experienced in making the plant secure, which must be done; otherwise, if left in a loose and unstable condition, the plants are unable to become quickly re-established and con- sequently dwindle. Small neat sticks should be used for this purpose, to keep the plants firmly in their places until they become self-supporting masses. The compost, after repotting, should be carefully watered, keeping it just moist only until the new roots appear and get hold of the compost, then more water may be given. Drought at the roots is not conducive to good growth, but it is safer to err,on that side than to give too much water. The temperature really most suitable for a collection of Masdevallias is one a few degrees higher than that advised, later on, for the Odontoglossum house. The species, M. Harryana, is named after Mr. Harry Veitch, the head of the great Chelsea firm of nurserymen, and the varieties of this species are’ very numerous and beautiful, and a great diversity of colour exists. There is in existence, a pure white form, and the darkest colour known is the Bull’s Blood variety, while M. Harryuna armenaca is a lovely orange colour; such varieties as these are very expensive, but the typical forms are very cheap. The time of flowering for Masdevallias is generally from March to July, but a few are to be had in bloom the whole year round, the repotting period being from July to September. ARTIFICIAL HEATING. Heating by hot water is a most important matter, and, of course, the more perfect the arrangements the better can the desired degree of warmth be maintained. When this work is entrusted to a hot-water engineer, it is usually properly fitted and left in good working order; but it sometimes happens that when a house is to be used for a class of plants it was not built for, and there is a probability that there may be an insufficiency of warmth, it becomes necessary to examine the heating power of the boiler and pipes in order to find out the defects in any part. Many kinds of boilers are in use; but whatever description of boiler may be decided upon, care should be taken that it is of sufficient size to heat whatever length of piping is attached to it, so that in hard 16 ORCHIDS: HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. weather plenty of heat may be readily obtained to ensure a regular and perfect temperature without inducing strain or undue pressure upon the boiler. Such a boiler as shown is one that 7 Yl —— ~~ OO ee = GS 29 ‘ sent ye - Seldon a - ae oS : i y 1 t ¢° ss ORCHIDS: HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. 19 enough to keep up a night temperature of 55 degrees; whilst the temperature of the Warm house should not be allowed to fall below 60 degrees for any length of time. STOKING THE FIRES. As it is warmth from the pipes which creates the artificial temperature in the greenhouse, and as Orchids are plants which sustain themselves chiefly on air, it is quite evident that the better the artificial air is produced and maintained the better it is for the Orchids, as well as for other plants growing with them. Stoking, then, is an important matter, and such work should be done by an intelligent man and not left to any odd hand, as is too often the case. There is art even in stoking a greenhouse fire, and the person who is in charge of the fires should understand the thermometer, and be one who can be relied upon to give careful attention to his duties, letting the conditions of the weather outside guide him. Let us suppose, for instance, that it is a very dull and cold day in January, when the fires require to be well stoked, keepmg them clear and bright, as can be done with anthracite coal or coke, at such a time more heat will be necessary during the day than at night, in order to give a rise of a few degrees in the temperature. This is an instance when careful stoking and watchfulness of the thermometer crops up. Then suppose a day in March or April, clear and bright but very cold, necessitating good firing during the night to keep up a proper temperature, but with the sun shining brightly in the daytime, a much reduced amount of fire only would be wanted. The fire could then be ‘‘damped down” with slack (small coal) until two or three o’clock in the afternoon, when it should be started again, first clearing out the furnace bars and firehole. In the hot summer days of June to August it is possible that fires may be dispensed with, even in the stove house, but still a cold day or night may come, when a little fire to warm the pipes and raise the temperature « few degrees would be advantageous. Again, in November, one day may be very cold, requiring brisk fires to keep the proper temperature, whereas, the following day may be damp and close, needing but little warmth in the pipes, enough only to assist ventilation and to admit of the ventilators being opened. See, then, that the fire is managed carefully, always maintaining an even temperature, avoiding the extremes of overheating and dryness, or damp and cold. 20 ORCHIDS: HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. VENTILATION. This is another most important matter requiring the attention of some one having a fair amount of intelligence, for Orchids are plants that live, thrive, and grow robust on the air, and the moisture it contains, therefore, it is absolutely necessary that they should have as much air as possible without causing a draught, or sudden rising or falling of the thermometer, as this would be injurious. Every plant house should have ventilators to open and close, both at the bottom and top of the building. Those at the bottom should be in the wall, on a level with the hot-water pipes, and the top ventilators should be at the highest point of the house, while the opening and closing of these ventilators require as much care as the stoking. The person in charge must be guided entirely by the condition of the weather, as two successive days at any season of the year may demand a difference in management. One summer day may be warm and the wind calm and the houses shaded from the fierce rays of the sun, and the ventilators opened more or less on all sides in order to secure perfect ventilation; the following day it may still be bright, and necessary for the roller blind to be let down, with cold and drying wind blowing rather strongly from, say, the west, in which case the ventilators facing the west must be kept almost closed, perhaps quite so, whilst those on the east side can be opened as required. A well ventilated, moist growing temperature could thus be secured, but not so if the ventilators were open on the windward side, with a direct draught of cold arid air on the plants, which would cause them to suffer. A careful system of ventilation should therefore be observed at all periods of the year, but the autumn months admit of a greater amount of air and ventilation than at any other season, as it is at this period that many Orchids have finished their growth and require to be ‘“ harvested,” as it were, by gradually reducing the amount of moisture both in the atmosphere and at the roots, and this is easily accomplished by ventilating more freely; but in changeable weather discretion must be used in giving air, as at other seasons, bearing in mind, however, that when the growth is finished they are decidedly more hardy, and are capable of withstanding a larger amount of air than at any other period. During the winter months air should be admitted at all times ORCHIDS: HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. 21 when the outside conditions of the atmosphere permit. But it often happens that it is necessary to shut the houses up as closely as is possible, especially in exposed situations, in order to keep the thermometer registering the desired degree of heat; but when it can be done, admit air through the bottom ventilators in a very small degree, increasing it if the weather becomes more favourable. In very mild weather the top ventilators may be opened on the leeward side. The utmost attention to ventilation is required during the spring months, as the plants are then in a somewhat tender and delicate state, having passed through the winter, when, no matter how much care may have been exercised as to heat and ventilation, they are of necessity deprived of much air, having been kept in a close temperature, and are therefore more susceptible of - a check at this season than at any other period. It is then we often get bright sunshine accompanied by a cold east wind, when it is a mistake to open the ventilators, as many do, to keep down the temperature. Instead of doing this let down the roller blind early, so that the temperature may not get too heated, and a little air through the crevices, which invariably exist, will be found sufficient. SHADING. Shading the house at all times, when necessary, is another subject to which I must draw attention, as some Orchids do best in the shade, many prefer partial shade, whilst others, in their native state, luxuriate in the full blaze of the sun, but, when under glass, there are few plants that will withstand its full power during the summer months without some protection in the way of shading. Although most Orchids require as much light as can be given to them, exclusive of the scorching rays of the sun, it is best to use roller blinds that can be let down in sunny weather and rolled up during cloudy periods or when the heat of the day is past. One of the best systems of shading is that marked D and E on illustration of greenhouse. A framework of wood or iron is fixed upon the roof of the house, merely for the roller to rest upon. This framework should be about eight inches from the glass, so as to admit air and keep the house cooler than if the shading rested on the sash bars, an important point with Cool Orchids, especially during the summer. The blinds can be easily arranged to roll up and down, by means of a cord and a simple apparatus, ‘ ~ 2 ORCHIDS: HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. which any carpenter can fix. These roller blinds should be affixed by the end of February, so as to be ready for use when wanted, for it is frequently found that, without such shading, bright sunshine will do much damage early in the spring, even to plants which are able to stand the full blaze of the sun in summer, and that is brought about by the plant having passed through months of dull weather,—perhaps with weeks almost sunless— and, being in consequence in a less hardy state than usual, are unable to bear a sudden burst of sunshine of a few hours’ duration; then, if shading is neglected, the foliage gets burnt and damaged, checking growth and giving an unsightly appearance to the plants; it is therefore most important that after a long spell of dull weather the plants should be gradually accustomed to stronger light and sunshine. The roller blind system of shading is far better than colouring the glass with whitewash or other similar preparation, which keeps the house too dark in dull weather for the wellbeing of the plants, whilst, in bright weather, the temperature of the house is likely to get much too hot and dry, bringing on the propagation of various insect pests. The sides and ends of the house may be permanently shaded by colouring matter through the summer, but this should be washed off again in September. Various materials may be used for blinds, but there is one manufactured for the purpose, which can be purchased of our leading nursery and seedsmen; this is made of various textures, the thicker material suitable for shading Cool-house Orchids, and the thinner for plants requiring less shading. The blinds should be taken down in the autumn—some of them may be dispensed with at the end of September—and, when quite dry, can be stowed away until the following spring. Another system of shading, and perhaps for Orchids the best of all, is that shown in Fig. 10 (see page 51). This is made of strips of deal, a quarter of an inch thick and an inch wide, and as long as the depth of the roof of the house—they are made in about six feet lengths. Thus a house 18 feet long would require three lengths for one side, and, as these are so easily rolled up, all that is needed is to place them on the wooden framework above the glass, and rolling or unrolling them by the hand as necessary. They are made by tying the strips together with twine, leaving space between each strip of from a quarter to half an inch, as required for the different plants. ORCHIDS: HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. 23 THE ATMOSPHERE. Attention having been given to Stoking, Heating, Ventilation, and Shading, as already advised, much has been done to create a suitable atmosphere for the plants to live upon. Amateurs will do well to see that it is not in any way stuffy or close, as stagnant air is as objectionable and injurious to plants as to human beings. Water is an indispensable factor in producing an atmosphere suit- able for Orchids and other plants which grow in company with them, and a good supply should always be at hand. Hard, or tap water, will do for damping the stages, floors, and side walls, in order to produce evaporation; but, for watering the plants, rain water, reservoir, or river water should be used. The atmospheric conditions of the house, of course, varies according to the season of the year, and, whether the plants are in a growing state or ut rest, there may be days which are wet and not very cold, when it would not be necessary for the pipes to give out much heat; then, what with the moist air entering the house and but little fire heat to dry it up, the plants being in a dormant state, very little, if any, watering would be requisite on the floor, stages, or the plants. But on days when it may be very cold, necessitating a great amount of heat in the hot-water pipes, then, of course, - sufficient water must be used on the floor for the prevention of a harsh and dry atmosphere, but taking care to preserve a proper degree of genial temperature. Asa general rule, during the winter months, damping down the floors and stages once a day is quite sufficient, and that work should be done in the morning; but on some days it is not required at all. In the spring and summer months the atmosphere should be more humid than at any other season, as the plants are then making young growths, and it is at this time that a moist atmosphere is so essential to them to induce strong quick growth. A higher temperature is then also required in the Warm house, and more air being given, greater attention must be paid to the damping of floors, stages, &c. During the growing season it is advisable to thoroughly damp down between the pots, floors, and walks three times a day--morning, noon, and night. This must, however, be regulated by the weather prevailing at the time; for, if dull and damp, it is not necessary to do it so often. The arrival of autumn brings with it a reminder that the plants having made their 24 ORCHIDS: HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. season’s growth less moisture is needed and may be partially, but gradually, withheld. The season of rest having arrived, it is advis- uble to encourage an atmosphere that is airy, light, and bright, but not so dry as to cause the plants to shrivel and show a yellow tint. In such an atmosphere the plants will be sustained in health during this period of rest without exciting premature growth, second growths late in the season being very undesirable, for rarely can such plants as Cattleyas and Dendrobiums finish off perfectly such growths, even in a long and fine summer. Evaporating troughs on the hot-water pipes are sometimes adopted to assist in generating moisture. TEMPERATURE. As with the atmosphere, so with the temperature of the house, success depends in a great measure upon good careful stoking of the fires. Even where proper arrangements are made for ventilation and shading there is frequently great difficulty in keeping the thermometer exactly at a given degree, for the inside temperature being affected by that prevailing outside, great care has to be exercised in order to avoid extremes of heat or cold. For instance, if a house should by accident get much below the necessary temperature, do not force the fire at a rapid rate in order to immediately restore the heat, but when the weather is very cold cover the house with garden mats or other material, letting the fire start gently, and the temperature rise slowly to the proper degree. On the other hand, should the temperature, through neglect of ventilation or some other cause, rise to a height out of proportion to what is requisite, as it often will, most rapidly, when shading and ventilation in hot weather is not properly seen to, then do not open the doors and ventilators widely, but at once run down the roller blinds and open the ventilators gradually, in order that the temperature may be brought down to the degree of heat required. Good management and care will however prevent such accidents, and a wise grower will not allow valuable plants to run the risk of injury from such a cause. It is no uncommon occurrence to see two healthy specimens of an Orchid, standing side by side, one wet at the roots, the other perfectly dry. The sudden and rapid fall in temperature would most likely injure the plant with wet surroundings, whilst that with its roots quite dry would suffer more from extreme SSFULLY. ’ 4 — = ~ N _ v ie, P yay amie AAP ¥. . - ‘ AE A wl y 7 be a ve n ; - f ‘ ‘ A . 2 - he ine >» « 7s, Li ? * tents 9 A J ha ee ri r . £ “ - ’ i 4 . * ’ if ' ; faiva " dy di ORCHIDS: HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. 27 heat, and yet the conditions of these plants at the time of injury may have been overlooked and some other reason assigned for the cause. Temperature and atmosphere must therefore go hand in hand, and with the judicious application of fire, or sun heat, with air and moisture, a suitable temperature for all seasons can easily be obtained. Just a word or two as to a general rule. Avoid an internal muggy atmosphere in close gloomy weather, and a fiery dry temperature in cold weather, or excessive heat or cold at all times. The following tables are given as a guide to amateurs in securing the necessary temperature for Cool Orchids, Intermediate- house Orchids, and Warm or Hothouse Orchids, the degrees given being an average desideratum ; a little variation either way may be allowed, without in any way injuring the plants :— COOL HOUSE. D ith D ith t F | ay wi ay wit ou Night. ree | Morning. Winter ........... 58 PS Tis Rar ae See ee | 63 60 55 | 50 Summer ......... | { Aplonet} | 65 60 | 55 BwtawNn.....:...: 63 | 60 | 55 | 50 INTERMEDIATE HOUSE. | (Si with | Day Arcata | Night. Morning. Winter .........| 65 58 to 60 “58 t060 | 58 68s«i lor ee Spring........... i 0 eae ae Summer.......... 75 to 80 +4 [Ae Autumn.......... | 70 60 55 WARM HOUSE. | . | | oy ass ‘taiae pti Night. | Morning. : ees | netic Winter ...... .... 70 65 63 60 Spring............ 80 BO Hay or her (6B Summer........... 80 to 90 78 75 68 to 70 Autumn.......... 75 to 85 | 70 to 75 | 70 65 to 70 28 ORCHIDS: HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. POTTING AND BASKETING. It is essential that this work should be most carefully done. The best compost in which to grow Orchids is the very best fibrous Orchid peat and sphagnum moss in about equal proportions, adding about one and a-half gallons of broken charcoal to two bushels of sphagnum and peat—the latter should be broken into pieces about the size of a hen’s egg by the fingers, and if the moss is long it should be chopped once or twice. This forms the best compost known for the majority of Orchids, although many varieties require more peat than sphagnum, and in some cases a little sweet fibrous loam may be added to advantage. Having prepared and mixed the compost, the plant, if an established one, should be turned out of the pot and every particle of crock and old material cleaned away from the roots, bearing in mind that it is a very bad practice to insert the old ball of roots into a new pot, as is customary with other plants, such as ferns, &c. The removal of the old compost and crocks is best accomplished by means of a pointed stick; all dead roots, pseudo bulbs, or old stems useless to the plant, having been carefully cut away, a clean pot should be close at hand, and of the right size, to receive the plant. In repotting Orchids it is not always necessary to give them a larger pot, as one of the same size as that m which it has been grown often suits it better. It is a great mistake to overpot Orchids. A good idea of the size required can be gained by selecting one large enough for the plant when two more ' growths are added to the leading pseudo bulbs before reaching the side of the pot. The roots of Orchids should not be unduly disturbed, provided the plants have been recently potted and in good material, as many may remain two, or even three years, without disturbance, needing only top dressings and the renewal of supporting sticks. When, however, repotting is necessary, and that is when the compost becomes too much decayed and in a sour condition, or the leading pseudo bulbs are growing over the rim of the pot, or from any other cause, then the repotting should. be done carefully and well. Supposing, for instance, we are about to repot Cattleyas. In the first place, take the plant out of the old pot as carefully as possible, clearing away all worn out soil, &e., as already directed; avoid, if possible, breaking any roots, and have a clean pot ready, about half full of clean broken crocks and small lumps of charcoal, to form effective drainage, so that water ORCHIDS: HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. 29 can pass through most freely and escape through the hole at the bottom of the pot. A thin layer of sphagnum should be laid over the crocks and charcoal, then place fhe plant in position, holding it there with one hand, and with the other distributing the roots in the pot, afterwards filling in with the compost, and whilst still holding the plant firmly with one hand, the peat, sphagnum, &c., should be carefully packed in, neither too firmly or too loosely, but well into the centre between the roots, so that no hollow spaces are left. A little practice and careful use of the fingers will soon enable beginners to pot their plants properly. The plant will then be self-supporting, with the exception perhaps of a few neat sticks thrust into the compost gently, so as not to injure any roots but yet support the plant securely, and prevent injury to the pseudo bulbs and young growth. As soon as the plant is made secure by the support of sticks, then carefully finish off the potting, by filling up any holes or loose places, leaving an even regular surface, with the centre of the plant a little raised and tapering off to the rim of the pot, bearing in mind that the compost should go well up to the base of the pseudo bulbs, especially the leading ones, newly forming roots will then push out direct into the fresh compost; and having grown safely into the moss they are out of the way of their enemies, the slugs and other pests, which are very partial to the young and tender points. In repotting, the opportunity should be embraced of forming a neat and well shaped plant; and if ill shaped, it should be cut im two and rearranged into a_ better form, with the growths pointing towards the centre. Fig. 11 (see page 57) represents a newly potted plant of Cattleya, showing position of drainage and compost. ODONTOGLOSSUMS AND ONCIDIUMS. The mode of potting these is very similar to that already described for Cattleyas, as to drainage, compost, and other items, although Odontoglossums and Oncidiums are not quite so sensitive as to the fibrous nature of peat; therefore the best, and that which is of the most fibrous texture, should be selected for the Cattleyas. Neither should over large pots be used for Odontoglossums, as they become re-established much quicker, and are more readily managed, in comparatively small pots. I do not, of course, recommend cramming the plants in so that they are in a cramped state to 30 ORCHIDS: HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. commence with and have not sufficient room to grow. What I mean is, that the old pseudo bulbs should be placed close together, filling in between them with compost to the base, allowing a margin between the leading pseudo bulbs and the rim of the pot sufficient for the development of the next two years’ growth; that is, two new bulbs before the side is reached. These should also be made firm in their pots by the use of small sticks. CYPRIPEDIUMS. These plants very soon recover from any disturbance of the roots, and are very free growing. They require a compost with a little more body in it, and of a richer nature than that previously recommended for Odontoglossums ; it should consist of equal parts lumpy peat, not of such a fibrous nature as for Cattleyas, adding sphagnum and a fourth part of fibrous loam broken into small pieces; also another fourth of half-rotted leaf-mould with the finer portions sifted out of it. This, with a liberal addition of coarse silver or river sand, should be well mixed together. The pots should be crocked, as recommended for Cattleyas, with a thin layer of sphagnum over the drainage. All the old soil, &c., must be removed from the roots, the plants held in position and filled in between the roots, as before advised, taking care not to injure the roots, or packing too hard or too loosely; it is advisable to have the plant just above the rim of the pot. Cypripediums grow rather luxuriantly, and should therefore have reasonably large pots in proportion to the size of the plants and the quantity of roots. DENDROBIUMS. These must be potted in the very best fibrous peat and sphag- num, in equal proportions, preparing both as recommended for Cattleyas, and the pots should be thoroughly drained in the same way. As a rule, Dendrobiums do far better in small pots than large ones; in fact, some kinds are most sensitive in this respect, a large mass of material about the roots being most distasteful to them. Many of the Dendrobiums really thrive better when planted in teakwood baskets or earthen pans and suspended from the roof; still there are some kinds which it is necessary to grow in pots, because of the great length of their pseudo bulbs. Fig. 12 (see page 69) illustrates the method of growing them in baskets or ORCHIDS HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. 5] Lay , ew < - - a. i ~ Aa even cg NS. He) : i fh wh aa, en ee ; me ru be . ts ie h, Le 1 arte Fe peel ORCHIDS: HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. 33 pans. There are, however, exceptions, as in D. Falconeri, one of the most beautiful of all, and a comparatively fragile grower. This variety is most successfully cultivated on a teakwood raft, or, what is still better, a portion of the stem of a tree fern. D. aggre- gatum majus must also be grown on a block. TIME OF REPOTTING. The proper time for carrying out this work can scarcely be disregarded, and it should be made a practice to do all that is required in this respect immediately after their season of flowering, for it is then that Orchids commence growing and pushing new roots, which readily take hold of the new soil. There are, however, a few exceptions to this rule to be found in the autumn-flowering species, notably Oncidiums, Vandas, Odontoglossum grande and its allied varieties, Pleiones, and Thunias, which should not be disturbed until repotted in the spring. Cattleya gigas, aurea, and Warnerii are also late summer and autumn-flowering kinds, but these I prefer repotting directly after they have flowered, although they may be left until the early spring, when this operation can be performed with success. Cattleya labiata (syn. Warocqueana), Bowringiana, and marginata also flower late in the autumn, and, like all other late-flowering sorts, are best left over until spring, as during the dark days of winter but little root action takes place, and it is far better to leave the repotting until young roots are ready to start into the new compost. The Cool-house Odontoglossums I repot in September, but it is best to attend to each as they go out of flower and directly the new growth is seen pushing from the base of the last made pseudo bulbs. POTS AND BASKETS versus BLOCKS. Do not be persuaded to attempt growing Orchids on blocks of wood, thinking that by so doing their natural habit will be more closely imitated, for it invariably ends in failure, and there is no exception to this rule. They cannot, in our artificially heated glass houses, be grown successfully for any length of time on blocks of wood or lumps of stone, as they are known to do in their native habitats, where they flourish in full vigour and beauty. This may appear to be a strange dogma to the inexperienced in growing Orchids, but it is nevertheless a fact. D ot ORCHIDS: HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. I grant that a newly imported healthy plant of Cattleya or Dendrobium, if wired to a block of wood or cork, will grow well for a year, or perhaps two, but after that the plant is found to dwindle away and become less by degrees. The reason why Orchids fail with us, when trying to grow them in the manner in which they luxuriate in their native countries, is obvious, when we take into consideration how utterly impossible it is for us, even in the largest and most perfectly regulated establishments, to create in an enclosed space of a few square yards, which has to be heated artificially for more or less of nine months of the year, that admirable, fresh, buoyant, and uniform atmosphere which exists amongst their native mountains and in their forests and dells. We may sometimes, during favourable weather and proper management, partly succeed in doing this, but perhaps in the next hour, with lax attention and a totally different temperature, there will be a greatly altered state of affairs. This varying and ever changing artificial atmosphere—sometimes laden with moisture, at others dry and harsh, with the temperature changing quickly from hot to cold— undoubtedly occurs in a larger or smaller degree in every establishment, and this is the chief reason why an Orchid does not erow satisfactorily if all its roots are exposed to these sudden and recurring changeable conditions, although it is natural for them to perform their proper functions when exposed in their native habitats. It is, therefore, necessary, when under culture, that the roots should have protection from these sudden changes of . temperature, and this is best done by growing them in pots or baskets, in a suitable compost, as they thus escape the ill effects of root exposure and can be kept ina more regular condition of moisture, not saturated one day and extremely dry the next, as is the case when they are fastened to blocks of wood. There is also another reason, which I have no doubt has much to do with this failure on blocks, which is, that with us the blocks of wood have no life in them and contain no moisture whatever, whilst in their native countries many of the Orchids grow on living trees. I think it is a very rare experience with collectors abroad to find them growing on trees which have been dead any considerable time. There is a beautiful old Orchid, Cattleya citrina, which from its peculiar drooping habit of growth cannot well be grown in any way but on blocks. Even if planted in a basket or ORCHIDS: HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. 39 pan in an upright position, the new growth will invariably turn downwards and creep over the sides. Some cultivators place these plants in small pans or baskets, making them firm with peat and sphagnum moss, so as to allow them full freedom of growth over the sides, and I have no doubt they last longer in a good healthy condition this way than any other, although it lasts for a con- siderable time in health on a block when well attended to. It is sometimes interesting to show visitors a plant growing on wood, and this Cattleya is the one I recommend to be grown for the purpose, but the block should be cut in a green state and of the desired length, leaving the bark for the roots to cling to. The wood of the pear tree, apple tree, or of the dogwood (Cornus) is the best; and I remember once placing some plants of Oncidium papilio (the Butterfly Orchid) on a block of dogwood, cut from a growing tree, sufficiently long for one end to be fixed firmly in a flower pot in an upright position, with crocks and sphagnum moss about it. The plants were placed close together on the top part of the block, completely away from the sphagnum, and the moisture from the latter kept the block quite green for a considerable time; during the first year it made a new layer of bark, and I never saw plants of Oncidium papilio grow better under any conditions, the new bulbs and leaves were so strong, and the roots climbed down the block in great profusion. This plant, however, is best grown in small pans, being more secure and giving much less trouble. TREATMENT OF IMPORTED ORCHIDS. Imported plants require most careful treatment on their arrival from abroad, as a large number are so severely injured at the commencement, and in many instances killed outright. The experienced Orchid cultivator, however, knows what is required to get them into a strong healthy state of growth, but in the hands of the inexperienced they dwindle and perish for want of proper treatment. It is sometimes the case that the plants have stood the journey well, and when unpacked look quite green and fresh, having scarcely lost a leaf. But if these were unpacked and suddenly exposed to strong light and moisture, many, if not all, of the green leaves would probably turn yellow or fall off with but very little warning, and of course greatly weaken the plants. Those who import Orchids for almost 36 ORCHIDS: HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. immediate sale by auction are naturally anxious that the plants should look well and fresh in the salerooms, and at as early a period as possible, and to obtain this result the plants are placed in a moist, darkened house, and frequently no attempt is made to really harden them off. It is necessary, therefore, for amateurs to be on their guard and very careful with newly imported plants, getting them gradually accustomed to heat, light, and moisture, for if this is done too rapidly, and too liberally, the foliage may drop off considerably, and perhaps the pseudo bulbs decay. When the plants are received, all useless decaying foliage, roots, &c., should be removed carefully ; and this done, the plants should be placed in a shady part of the Cool-house, on the stage, and kept free from water and in an upright position, the moisture of the house being sufficient for one or two days. The foliage and pseudo bulbs will soon commence swelling and become plump, and occasional waterings may then be given to the roots. As soon as the new growth or roots appear, the imported plants may be potted or placed in baskets or pans and then treated as established plants, watering them carefully as required. Some growers suspend the newly imported plants by the roots with the growth downwards, in the shade of the house, in order that no water shall lodge about them, receiving only the moist atmosphere of the house; but I am not in favour of this plan, and prefer placing them in an upright position from the first, as I have already explained. Experience has shown me that when suspended the imported plants do not so readily resume their normal functions of growth, the delay being much less when placed in an upright position. Should they, however, belong to the Cattleya or Warm-house section, they may be removed there after being a few days in the shaded house. When potting or placing them in baskets advantage should be taken of this opportunity to form well shaped, compact plants, as frequently the imported plants, as taken from the branches of trees or when growing, are spreading and ill formed. In potting these, it is necessary to divide the mass, especially with Cattleyas, and place the parts together, so that the leading growth is placed in its proper position, and this can be done without the slightest injury at this stage, and a well shaped plant will be secured. In potting the plants it is a great mistake to leave a mass of the old roots on them, as these, when confined in the pots, ORCHIDS HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. I ' a - tee ‘ let ye vi : am Rak eee geoueiy bic Hoa ities mer Money i> cos ; a2 Ae : ANN a ier Re jae. [vena a —— - on 7 , i # D mr | ee’ @ ; } ‘ m ’ Y i ewe ad ” ; oe pa’ * ORCHIDS: HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. 39 soon decay and become an inert mass of decomposed soddened matter, which is most objectionable and injurious to the new roots that will be formed. These old dead roots should be severely dealt with, and all taken clean away to the pseudo bulb, as also all dead leaves or bulbs. With Odontoglossums and Dendrobiums a few of their old roots, cut back to two or three inches long, may be left on the plant, being useful in helping to keep the plants in position when potting them. PROPAGATION. Propagation of Orchids, or, speaking more correctly of some kinds of Orchids, is slow indeed, and often unnecessary, as healthy and vigorous plants, that will flower the first year, may be bought at a very low price; yet it is sometimes desirable to increase the stock of a very rare and expensive sort, or even an exceptionally good variety of a common species, in fact any other kind one may value and wish to propagate. Such free growing kinds as the Calanthes, Pleiones, Cypripediums, Thunias, Masdevallias, Oncidiums, and Odontoglossums, when in a vigorous condition, readily increase in the number of leading growths without artificial aid, and if more stock is required it is easily obtained by dividing the plants. Cattleyas, Lzelias, and Dendrobiums may also be increased by division, and this can be hastened somewhat by the use of a knife. Fig. 13 (see page 77) shows one method whereby a Cattleya or a Lelia can be made to break back through severing the rhizome, as shown in the illustration, but the resulting growths are generally weak, and several years elapse before they are strong enough to bloom. Cattleyas and Leelias sometimes have double breaks, forming two new pseudo bulbs from an old one, but it frequently happens that, in the following year, one only of these new growths will take the lead and the other remain dormant, and if left undisturbed will often remain in this state for several years. When it is seen that both of the new pseudo bulbs are not going to start into growth at the same time, the weakest of the two should be severed from the parent plant close to the pseudo bulb, and it will then be obliged to start into growth on its own account. The incision should be made with a sharp knife, care being taken not to cut the roots or injure any other part of the plant. The severed portion will then make a new pseudo bulb the same year, provided the operation was performed in the spring, and in the following 40 ORCHIDS: HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. spring they will grow faster and surer if taken away from the parent plant and potted into small pots or baskets. The propagation of the Dendrobium is easy, but is not practised so much as would be the case if many of the most beautiful varieties were not imported in such large quantities, strong plants being obtainable at such low prices as to render propagation unnecessary, unless in the case of an extraordinary good variety or a garden hybrid. When it is desired that young stock should be raised of Dendrobiums, the old pseudo bulbs, which it is found may be cut away without injury to the plant, may be laid upon sphagnum moss, placed on a shelf or some other suitable place, and kept moist until the young growths appear, and in due time these will form healthy young bulbs. INSECT LIFE, CLEANLINESS, AND REMEDIES. Cleanliness is a great point in the cultivation of Orchids, as well as with other plants, such as the removal of all rubbish from under the stages or elsewhere. Whitewashing the walls once a year, scrubbing the stages and pots occasionally, cleaning and sponging the leaves of the plants, all helping to keep down insect life, which, if unchecked, soon becomes very troublesome. There are numerous kinds of insects which are enemies to the plants, and for the wellbeing of the latter it is essential that all these pests should be kept in check. A camel’s hair brush and a piece of sponge used by careful hands, and with clear soft water, are the best and most effective tools with which to clean away insect life from the plants. Insecticides, whether home made or otherwise, are always more or less dangerous, and often lead to the rotting away of the young growths of some of the more tender plants, such as Chysis, Stanhopeas, Dendrobiums, and Phajus. Topacco WATER can be made by well soaking a half pound of common twist tobacco in hot water, adding a half pound of soft soap, which is sufficient for four gallons of water, and makes a capital solution, which is both safe to use and effective, and into which the plant may be dipped for a few seconds when affected by thrip or aphis, taking care that the water is of the same temperature as the house. If the solution is very strong it will be safest to dip the plant into clean water after the lapse of a few minutes, but if of the proper strength the solution may be allowed to dry on it. The danger to be avoided is the lodgment of any portion in the ORCHIDS: HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. 41 young and tender growths, which easily rot from this cause, therefore it is best to be cautious and well dry the liquid out of the hearts of the young growth with a camel’s hair brush. There are many chemical compounds made and freely advertised tor the destruction of insect enemies to plant life, all of which may be good in their way, if used carefully, according to the directions accompanying each, and are not injurious to plants. I find * Killmright”’ an excellent insecticide for dipping the plants in, also for washing them, using it in the proportion of six ounces to four gallons of soft water, and even the flowers when immersed in it are seldom injured. FUMIGATION is of great assistance in the prevention of insect lite, and it can be applied without injury to either foliage or flowers, when used in the form of ‘‘Campbell’s Rolls” or the ‘*Lethorion’? (Vapour Cone). It is safest to fumigate under rather than over the directions issued, especially for Odonto- glossums. When it is desirable to fumigate choose a calm evening for the operation—the atmosphere should not be over dry nor should the foliage be at all wet. SyRINGING.—The indiscriminate use of the syringe as a check to the spread of insects is not a good practice, either with clear water or water mixed with any insecticide, being ineffective and frequently the reverse of satisfactory. ScALE, which clings so tenaciously to the leaves of Saccolabiums, Aerides, and Coelogyne cristata in particular, is a great pest, and where it exists in large numbers, it is a good plan to make up a “lather” of carbolic soap, and paint the leaves with it, allowing it to remain five minutes, afterwards washing it off with a sponge and clear water, when, should the scale still cling to the leaves, a little rubbing will remove it. There is a species of scale which infests Cattleyas and Leelias, especially if the plants are not strong and healthy, which can be cleaned away for a time in the same manner, taking care, however, that the ‘‘lather’’ or insecticide does not get down to the roots, and this is easily prevented by holding a piece of sponge round the base of the pseudo bulb until the operation is completed. Do not attempt to get them off with « sharp pointed stick, as this is both a dangerous and tedious method. ‘‘ Cross’s Electric Insecticide’’ is the best thing I have tried for ridding the Cattleyas of this pest; it should be used in the proportion of one part insecticide to four of rain water. Apply 42 ORCHIDS: HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. it over the insect by means of a small brush of stiffer fibre than camel’s hair, thoroughly soaking the scale, and letting it remain until the insect is completely killed—it need not be washed off. The person who introduced this electric insecticide recommends the solution for syringing over the plants for the destruction of red spider, aphis, &c., but I think it best for amateurs to use rather less than is mentioned in the directions, as the young tender foliage of Orchids, as well as other plants, is very. easily injured and growth consequently retarded. This applies equally to other insecticides. ToBpacco PowWDER is a valuable agent for the prevention of thrip and aphis, and should always be at hand. The disagreeable odours arising from fumigating or the use of insecticides are always more or less objectionable, and this annoyance may be avoided by using tobacco powder, which can be purchased from any seedsman, in 1/- or larger tins, and if a little of this is sprinkled into the young growths of the plant no thrips will go near them, whilst those that are there will be speedily destroyed. COCKROACHES are terrible night depredators, and the best remedy I know for their destruction is the well known ‘“‘ Chase’s Beetie Poison,” which should be used at regular intervals in places where they are most likely to congregate or on any plants on which they have been feeding, taking special precautions to prevent their ravages on the young flower spikes and the tender tips of the roots. WOODLICE also eat the roots, and should be trapped and killed. Various traps are employed for catching these pests, but the best of all, I find, is a potato cut in halves, with a portion of each half scooped out of the centre and then placed with the outside of the potato upwards, examining it every morning. SLuGs.—These are also a great nuisance in the Orchid house, and havea special liking for the young and tender flower spikes. Lettuce leaves can be kept about the plants, and a little fresh bran in small saucers has a great attraction for them, and they should also be diligently searched for at night, using a lamp, for their detection. . CATTLEYA FLy (losoma orchidéarum).——This is a much dreaded insect, and its larvee is deposited in the centre of the young growth. Its existence there may be detected, when the young break or growth is about an inch high, as it becomes abnormally ORCHIDS: HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. 45 thick at the base and tapers somewhat more to a point than is usual, the growth making but little progress. The only method of exterminating this pest is to cut out the infested growth, in the centre of which the young grub will be found in a more or less advanced stage. If destroyed in this way an effectual stop to their breeding is attained and much harm to the plants prevented ; but, should an infested growth be overlooked and the insect come to maturity, a great amount of damage may be done for another year. Luckily this insect is not very general, but it is always best to be on the alert when buying plants. THE DENDROBIUM BEETLE (Xyleborus perforans) is of small size, but quite large enough to be capable of a great amount of mischief if not promptly checked, and should it get a foothold on the bulbs, as it often does in the Dendrobiums from the Torres Straits, such as D. Phaleenopsis, D. Schréderiana, D. bigib- bum, D. Dalhousieanum, and D. formosum giganteum, apparently having a liking for, but it does not confine itself to these species. The presence of the insect is indicated by the small cleanly bored holes in the pseudo bulb, both new and old, resembling the small holes found in old worm-eaten furniture; should these holes escape notice the leaves soon assume a yellowish appearance and the pseudo bulbs begin shrivelling about an inch below the holes. If the pseudo bulb is cut open, a nest in a small cavity will be found, containing one or more of the beetles, and the surrounding tissues will be in a state ot decay. It is an open question whether the holes are first pierced by the adult beetle—an insect nearly the size of and resembling an ant—and the larvee deposited therein, or whether they are hatched in the pseudo bulb and afterwards eat their way out of it, as is the case with the Cattleya fly. This enemy may soon be stamped out if proper and timely precautions are taken. I advise an examination of the plants occasionally, and if any traces of the beetle are found, to cut away that portion of the pseudo bulb and burn it; in fact, should the plant be found to be badly infested, burn it altogether, and give the remaining plants a dressing of some insecticide. RED SpIpER.—This insect pest is most troublesome, and on Dendrobiums more than any other Orchids; when plants ure attacked by them and are unnoticed, serious results may follow, as they greatly reduce the vitality of the plants. They usually 44 ORCHIDS: HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. attack the under surface of the young tender foliage, and their presence can be detected by the leaves showing a whitish appear- ance on the upper as well as the under surface, which becomes more and more plainly visible as the insects increase, which they do very rapidly, causing the leaves to curl and dry up and probably fall off, almost completely arresting the further progress of any growth in course of formation, and greatly interfering with or destroying any prospects of flowering the next season. On the first appearance of this insect, immediate steps should be taken for its destruction, and a constant surveillance maintained of all Dendrobiums and other plants growing in the same house in order to stop further ravages. Sponge the leaves occasionally with clean water, say every two or three days, until they disappear, but in desperate cases use insecticides, mixed as previously advised, and sponge about once a week. Red spider will come, as other nuisances do, notwithstanding the most careful attention, and the conditions under which they are most likely to increase and thrive is that where there is a lack of moisture and the atmosphere is dry and hot from excessive fire heat. ORCHIDS FROM SEED. Raising Seedling Orchids is most interesting work, but the raiser must be prepared to exercise a great deal of patience, as with many of the species some years will elapse after the tiny seeds have germinated before the flowering stage is reached, whereas, with others, the period will be shorter; Cypripediums, Masdevallias, and Calanthes for instance, will, under good treatment, bloom in three or four years. Dendrobiums require a longer time, whilst Cattleyas and Leelias and some others do not bioom perhaps under 7 to 12 years, but despite this slow progress, keen interest is felt by the raiser and cultivator of the plants, from their earliest stage until they flower. Fertilisation is the first step towards obtaining seed, and this is done by what is termed “crossing,” but not in a hap- hazard way. An intelligent hybridist exercises an amount of thought as to ultimate results and the means of producing them, and of course takes his chance of obtaining hybrids of great merit or otherwise. It is of no manner of use crossing flowers belonging to two different genera, such, for instance, as an Odontoglossum with a Cattleya, or a Dendrobium with an Oncidium, as the results would be nil. Genera having a close resemblance in form and ORCHIDS : HOW TO GROW THEM SUCCESSFULLY. 45 ye Det me, notin 3 ate thai ly wk ped 4 emt Lae hse aden eit a ua ve A 4 7 a A meget > <-% ale wad Me = : an ¢ Xx - 4} i & ‘ ‘ ' t a « ose toe Aid 4 ee OY ie ey MAS Le ag Pa oy Vo 7,7 ie i ays | 4 Z x : J Pil 2s+o moO SUTTON’S SEEDS GENUINE ONLY DIRECT FROM SUTTON & SONS, “.2vse° READING. =| Orchids! = The Largest and Best Stock in Europe of Good Established Plants. 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Perfection, 3d.; Ham Green Favourite, 3d.: Hackwood Park Prolific, 3d. ; Challenger (new—very fine), 4d. ; Collection, 1s. zd., post free. Single packets, 1d. extra for postage. HIS UNIQUE BULB LIST, With Pamphlet, Revised and Enlarged. “HOW | CAME TO GROW BULBS,” The most Reliable Guide to the Best Varieties, and How to Grow them, is posted to all his friends and supporters each year, August 15th, or sent to any others, post free on application. Mr. SYDENHAM'S Bulbs and Seeds were Represented and Gained First Prizes at London, Birmingham, Preston, Newcastle-on-Tyne, Shrewsbury, Edinbro', &c., &c,, in 7892 and 1893. & IMPORTANT “= To ORCHID GROWERS and OTHERS. CAMPBELL’S Highest Award International Horticultural F U M 4 GATI Rt G Exhibition, London, 1892. INSECTICIDE Is the CHEAPEST, SAFEST and MOST DEADLY Insecticide ever introduced. Will not injure Orchids or the most tender bloom or foliage. Highly Recommended by :— Mr. Burwerry, Orchid Grower to the Rt. Hon. J. Chamberlain, M.P. Mr. WiLuiams, Gardener to the Rt. Hon. Earl of Lisburne. Mr. SPEED, Gardener to the Rt. Hon. Lord Penrhyn. Mr. Hupson, Gardener to the Messrs. Rothschild, Gunnersbury. Mr. THomson, Gardener to His Grace the Duke of Buccleuch. Mr. Wyrues, Gardener to His Grace the Duke of Northumberland. And the leading Horticulturists and Amateurs in the United Kingdom. LOI LFF ILL L ODIO 1000 Cubie Feet, 1/- each, ) ROLLS for | 5000 4, SSCPost. Free. hay Simply light the roll and hang it up. No fumigating pans required. BPP ALARA IDL ILP AI IODY LEMON OIL INSECTICIDE.—The best liquid Insecticide for syringing, dipping, &c. Awarded First-class Certificate International Horticultural Exhibition, London, 1892. Pint tins 1/63 quarts, 2/9 ; $-gallons, 5/-; gallons, 9/-; or post free, 1/10, 3/3 and 5/9. CLIBRAN’S EUCHARIS MITE KILLER.-—A valuable remedy. Effectually destroys the Eucharis Mite; also all other Insects attacking Bulbous or other roots, &c. Haif-pint tins, 1/6; pints, 2/6; quarts, 4/6; } gallons, 7/6; gallons, 12/6; or post free, 1/9, 2/9, 4/9, and 8/-. May be had from all Nursery and Seedsmen. Retail and Wholesale from Oldfield Nurseries, Altrincham ; Wm. CLIDTan Nt a0 10 & 12, Market Street, Manchester; and Principality Nurseries, Llandudno Junction, VIOLAS--Tufted Pansies. 12 Fine Varieties, named, good plants, post free, 3/- 24 Fine Varieties, named, good plants, post free, 5/- Choice Viola Seed, 1/- per packet. Ww. H. GABB, 31, DORA ROAD, SMALL HEATH, BIRMINGHAM. THE LARGEST AND FINEST ShOCk OF ORGHIDoS IN THE WORLD. MMOL EG LION: SNVILTED. Be NUDE RS: ol ALBANS. The Great Northern Railway Company have opened a Station in our Establishment, and Visitors, by giving notice at Hatfield Station to the guard of the train they travel by, will alight in our Glass Houses. The Establishment is reached in half-an-hour by Midland Railway from St. Pancras, and forty-five minutes by London and North Western Railway from Euston. The Nurseries devoted to the cultivation of Orchids contain nearly four acres of glass. RICHARDSON’S Horticultural Buildings. Sole Agents in Great Britain for the Parisian Blinds, which are specially suited for Orchid Houses, and which have been awarded upwards of 50 Medals. Warming of Churches, Schools, and Public Buildings. Boilers, Pipes, and Fittings. Many Prize Medals. New Catalogue, Free, the most complete issued, ORCHID HOUSES, Conservatories, Greenhouses, Vineries, Peach Houses, Stove Houses. PPD DDD OO eEeEOEoOEOOOOe W. RICHARDSON & CO., DARLINGTON. ORGHIDo A SPECIALITY. ee Messrs. Charlesworth, Shuttleworth & C0.., Heaton, BRADFORD, Have a large and fine stock of established and imported ORcHIDs. INSPECTION INVITED. Standen’s Manure HIS old-established Manure has long been acknowledged by most of the leading practical Gardeners in the United Kingdom and the Colonies to exceed all others in general fertilising properties and staying power, and this is clearly shown by the annexed analysis Phosr Ss. € pat phates, Soluble... 83) 96:57 Nitrogen ..................5 898% (equal to Ammonia 108387) POURAIME SALES i iecerccr rs £°00 From the above it will be seen STANDEN’S MANURE constitutes a complete Plant Food, eminently adapted for ensuring a rapid growth and vigorous developments, while its lasting properties are shown by the high proportion of Phosphates, mostly insoluble, by which the value of the Manure is greatly enhanced for horticultural purposes through their gradual dissolution in the soil. In Tins—1/-, 2/6, 5/6 and 8/- each ; And in Wooden Kegs at Reduced Prices—28 lbs., 10/6; 56 lbs., 18/-; 112 lbs., 32/- each (Kegs Free). Jv Roval Detters Patent. Bor t FLOOR LOIN (WAPOUR CONE ) This now well-known invention is for the entire prevention or eradication of all Insect Pests infesting vegetation. This is ensured by the utilization of a new principle, which, while proving thoroughly destructive to insect life, does not affect or injure in any way Flower, Fruit or Foliage. PRICES. Packed in Cases Cone. Cubic Feet. Fach. containing No.4 50 to 100 (for Frames, &C.) .........scescceeecsceee 6d. 2 dozen ~ 2 500 (for small ‘‘ Lean-to’s,” &c.) ......... NSB Cae » 8 1000 (general use in larger Greenhouses) 1/6 4 © » 4 4000 (for general use by Growers, &c.)... 5/- 4 1 NICOTINE. SOAS. An effectual and speedy eradicator of Scale, Thrip, Green Fly, Mealy Bug, Red Spider, American Blight, and all Parasites affecting Plants, without injury to foliage. In Jars, 1/6 and 3/- each; and in Tins, 5/6, 15/6 and 25/- each. SOLE MANUFACTURERS _—— he ) CORRY & CO., LIMITED, 18, 15 & 16, FINSBURY STREET, LONDON, E.C. To be had of all Seedsmen, Nurserymen, and Florists. “The Leading Gardening Paper.’’ Che Gardening World. Price One Penny Weekly. The Gardening World. ‘* Devoted exclusively to Horticultural pursuits.” Che Gardening World. ‘Orchid Notes and Gleanings, cultural and descriptive, a special feature in every issue.” The Gardening World. ‘‘A first-class medium for advertising.” Che Gardening World. Published every Thursday. STANDARD WORKS ON GARDENING. Published at ‘‘ THE GARDENING WORLD ’” Office. Hardy Ornamental Flowering Trees and Shrubs. By A. D. Webster, Author of ‘‘ Practical Forestry,” “ British Orchids, ? i&ce.''"Precey*9s. }° post free, ugseea: Vines and Vine Culture. The best book on Grapes and Grape Culture. By Archibald F. Barron. A New and Cheaper Edition, Revised and Enlarged. Demy 8vo, handsomely bound in cloth. Price, 5s., post free, 58. 3a. The Carnation: Its History, Properties and Manage- | ment; with a descriptive list of the best varieties in cultivation. By E. S. Dodwell. Third Edition. 1, CLEMENT’S INN, STRAND, LONDON, W.C. THE “GLIMAX” WEED KILLER. CONCENTRATED TO DOUBLE THE STRENGTH OF ANY OTHER, One Gallon sufficient to make 51 Gallons for use, and this will do for 160 to 200 Square Yards, HE greatest labour-saving preparation ever introduced to the notice of the gardeners. Destroys all Vegetation on Carriage Drives, Garden Walks, Stonework, &c., &c. Has no smell. Improves and brightens the gravel. Will Eradicate the Weeds far more thoroughly than the most careful hand-weeding, keeping them away for a whole season at least. Can beapplied with an ordinary watering-can. Will not injure the skin or clothing. PRICES.—In }-gallon tins. 1/9; 1-gallon, 3/- each (tins included) ; 5-gallon drums, 2/9 per gallon; 10-galion, 2/6 per gallon; 20-gallon casks, 2/3 per gallon; 40-gallon, 2/- per gallon. Carriage paid. Drums charged, but allowed for if returned within three months in good order and condition. THE “CLIMAX” INSECTICIDE. NON-POISONOUS, SAFE, AND EFFECTIVE. One Pint makes Six Gallons for use. HE only insecticide that.improves and brightens the foliage, while at the same time it completely destroys all insects and parasites infesting the foliage and roots of the plants, PRICES,—In tins, }-pint, 1/-; pint, 1/9; quart, 3/-; }-gallon, 5/-; and gallon, 9/- each; and in 5 and 10- gallon drums, 8/- per pe Baka The Climax” Blight Preventor Is GUARANTEED EFFECTUAL IN Rs iv te AND PREVENTING BLIGHT anp FUNGI on TOMATOES, VINES, CHRYSANTHEMUMS, POTATOES, &c, &c. PRICES.—In packets, 6d. nee (Postage, 3d. fer ne in 7-l1b, tins, 5/- each. FOREST OAK LEAF MOULD. OF SPECIAL QUALITY, We are prepared to offer same at SPECIALLY LOW PRICES, viz., In sacks containing 4 bushels—single sacks, 4/6; 10 sacks, 4/- each; 20 sacks, 3/6 each. SACKS FREE. CARRIAGE PAID. miChy HLBROUS. PEAT, Same price as above. SPECIAL ORCHID FIBRE, 20/- per sack. CARRIAGE PAID. 2a will be sent on approval. (7 ie Chemical é,, Limited, LIVERPOOL. CROSS’S CELEBRATED GARDEN FERTILISER. An unequalled Manure for Vines, Pot Plants, Fruits, Flowers, and Vegetables. MEDAL awarded by the ROYAL CALEDONIAN HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY, INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION, EpinpurGu, SEPTEMBER, 1891. Used by all the leading Chrysanthemum Growers. Supremely successful zn Chrysanthemum and Rose Culture. Price 17/6 per Cwt. carrtacz pat TO ANY RAILWAY STATION. MURRAY’S “ELECTRIC” Mildew and Fnsect Destroyer. A PURELY VEGETABLE PREPARATION For the immediate and complete removal of Mildew from all Plants susceptible to this destructive disease. It constitutes a perfect cure for Tomato Disease and American Blight, without injuring the Plant or Spotting the Fruit. Used as an insecticide it will utterly exterminate all Insects: the Ant, Bug, Scale, Thrip, Green and Black Fly, &c., from the Foliage and Roots of Plants, without injuring the Bud of the most delicate Foliage. ORCHIDS —For dipping and sponging Orchids infested with Thrips, Aphides, or Ked Spider, one part to six parts of water should be used. If applying it to Orchids when making tender new growths, by means of MuURRAY’S PATENT SYRINGE, one part to eight parts of water should only be used. It is invaluable for destroying species of Scale which sometimes attack Orchids, especially Cattleyas, and should be rubbed on the infested parts by means of a small brush, using one part to four parts of water. Note.—tThis preparation requires no Washing or Syringing after application. Properly applied, one man will clean as many plants in one hour as can be done in a day by the usual method. INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING ON EACH BOTTLE. Sold in Bottles, 1/-, 1/3, 1/6, and 2/6; per Half-Gallon, 6/6; per Gallon, 10/6. TO BE HAD OF ALL NURSERYMEN AND SEEDSMEN, AND FROM ALEX. CROSS & SONS, 19, HOPE STREET, GLASGOW. GEORGE JOHNS, Horticultural Builder, MOSELEY, BIRMINGHAM. NEW SPRING GARDEN HANDBARROW, Which has been awarded several Certificates at various Horticultural Exhibitions, and no Garden should be without it. JOHNS’ GARDEN WHEELBARROW, With or without movable top, of substantial make, yet light and very durable, and in general use about the Birmingham district. —___ ——_—____—_ HORTICULTURAL BUILDER. HOT WATER APPARATUS SUPPLIED & FIXED. GARDEN FRAMES of all sizes, and of the best materials and make. —————=s>— GEORGE JOHNS, MOSELEY, BIRMINGHAM. J. WEEKS & GO., F.B.H.8., 4[ORTICULTURAL’ BUILDERS, AND hot Water Apparatus Manufacturers, CHELSEA, LONDON, S.W. CONSERVATORIES, SPECIALLY CONSTRUCTED ORCHID HOUSES, And all other GARDEN STRUCTURES. Also 18th Edition of Illustrated Catalogue and Particulars of BOILERS AND HOT-WATER APPARATUS. PP LALLA LPL LOL OL LLL LLL LL IL PATENTEES OF THE ‘“* DUPLEX COMPENSATING” UPRIGHT TUBULAR BOILERS. J. WEEKS & CO, F.R.H:S., CHELSEA, LONDON, S.W. Wie Pie Sa Ge COrs IMPROVED TEAKWOOD Orcbid Baskets, ‘THE BEST IN THE MARKET,’ Strongly made with finest teakwood and copper wire, in various sizes and shapes. Th are eet ee lbie Drilled, chamfered, and ready to put together, are kept in stock; also, CoppER WirE Pins and SUSPENDERS. These can be supplied separately. SEND FOR PRICE LIST TO Messrs. WALTERS & CO., ORCHID. BASKET MAN COFACTOURLRS LEYTONSTONE, LONDON, E. John Cowan & Company, SUCCESSORS ..7TO Che Liverpool borticultural Company (JOHN COWAN), LIMITED, The Vineyard and Nurseries, Garston, or. Liverpool, ORCHID IMPORTERS AND GROWERS, urserumen, Seedsmen and Florists. ————_—_—_—_—» © HE Company have an immense Stock of ORCHIDs of all kinds, all are in the finest health and condition, and they offer them at extremely low prices. The Company are constantly receiving importations of Orchids from various parts of the world, and each consignment is offered for sale by circular as soon as it is received. Circulars will be sent regularly to all who may furnish their name and address to the Company for that purpose. Descriptive illustrated and priced Catalogues of established Orchids will also be sent post free on application. The Company have also Large Stocks of GRAPE VINES, TEA ROsEs (in pots), FERNS, PALMS, and a General Stock of STOVE and GREENHOUSE PLANTS; also ORNAMENTAL TREES and SHRUBS, FRUIT TREES, &c., &c.; also SEEDS of all kinds. Catalogues post free on application to the Company. MATERIALS ® «8s ORCHIDS. ORCHID PEAT. ORCHID PEAT. FOR SOME OF THE FINEST EVER SEEN; senp To G. H. RICHARDS, OLD SHOT TOWER WHARF, LAMBETH, LONDON, S.E. PEAT DEPOTS AND GROUNDS AT RINGWOOD, HANTS ; AND WAREHAM, DORSET. THE FINEST STOCK OF PEAT IN THE KINGDOM. FRESH SPHAGNUM Moss always in stock. GOopD FiBrous LOAM. Best HARDWOOD CHARCOAL. TEAK ORCHID BASKETS, RAFTS & CYLINDERS, with Hangers complete. TEAK RODS SUPPLIED, and all other Garden Sundries. Price List and Sample Post Free. € H RICHARDS PEAT MERCHANT AND MANUFACTURER " 1 5 OF HORTICULTURAL SUNDRIES, OLD SHOT TOWER WHARF, COMMERCIAL ROAD, LAMBETH, LONDON, S.E. N.B.—Peat can be despatched either from Cutting Grounds or from London Wharf. Address all Letters to London. BISHOP’S Chrysanthemum Mianures, Prepared of three kinds, Nos. 1, 2 and 3. Which are adapted to the various stages of growth of the Chrysanthemum. No. 1,—Suited to the cutting stage up to the time of potting into the flowering pots. Keeps the soil sweet and acts as a storehouse of food which it gradually yields for the service of the plant. No. 2.—For mixing with compost for the June potting, and for feeding during June and July. Ensures the equal growth of woody fibre and cellular tissue. No. 3 is specially prepared to pede S blooms of good substance and colour. Sold in 7 Ib., 14 Ib., 28 Ib. and 561b. bags, price 3/6, 6/-, 11/- and 20/- each. Or in Tins containing 4 Ibs., 2/6; 7 Ibs., 3/9; 14 Ibs., 6/6 each. MANUFACTURED BY READE BROTHERS. & CO., Chemical Works, WOLVERHAMPTON. FOR UnLnID PANS FLOWER PUTS = & oe Horticultural Pottery Manufacturers, THE SUSSEX POTTERY WORKS, UCKFIELD. Prices, Samples, and Particulars on Application. ORCHID PANS MADE TO ORDER TO ANY DESIGN. HOT WATER BOILERS. For Heating Conservatories, Greenhouses, AND ALL PUBLIC AND, PRIVATE BUILDINGS; By the circulation of Hot Water at Low Pressure. > 2+e<— ~~ The most HEALTHY, ECONOMICAL, & EFFECTIVE Method of Heating known. NO RISK OF FIRE. THOUSANDS OF | “QLIMAX” BOILERS [| Working successfully || ml all over the World. & “CLIMAX” BOILER: MANY VARIED DESIGNS of BOILERS for SPECIAL POSITIONS GOODS SUPPLIED THROUGH THE TRADE. HARTLEY & SUGDEN (LIMITED), HALIFAX. Messrs. PROTHEROE & MORRIS HOLD Sales of Orchids ON EVERY FRIDAY THROUGHOUT THE YEAR, AND FREQUENTLY ON TUESDAYS, AT THEIR CENTRAL SALE ROOMS, 67 & 68, CHEAPSIDE, LONDON, E.C. CATALOGUES FORWARDED ON APPLICATION. ‘* Messrs. PROTHEROE & MorRIs attribute the uninterrupted success of their Orchid Sales to the care and attention given to Commissions emanating from Growers in various parts of the country who cannot always personally attend, and they solicit a trial order from gentlemen who have not hitherto bought at their auctions.” GOOD HEALTHY PLANTS AT REASONABLE PRICES. AMATEUR’S WANTS A SPECIALITY. A GREAT NUMBER ALWAYS IN BUD. HANS BROCHNER, Orcuip GRower, HESSLE, EAST YORKS. 9 SPECIAL QUALITY, EI PS By SACK OR CASK ONLY. BROWN ALL KINDS oF GARDEN pene ae SELECTE motes ISITES, FERTILISERS, NSECTICIDES, &c., &e., FOR echt Pe ANTS ; HARDWOOD, RCHI LO, AM, LEAF MOULD, FERN, AND RHODODENDRON O CH:z er OAL, PEATS, or EXCELLENT QUALITY. PHAGNUM, PEA COARSE AND PRICES ON APPLIC ATION. FINE SAND. THE ORIGINAL PEAT DEPOT RINGWOOD, HANTS. Eckford’s sursns” oxew Sweet Peas. These wonderfully fine new varieties are fully described in HENRY. ECKFORD’S CATALOGUE OF SEEDS FOR 18o4. Post Free on Application. 12 superb varieties, each in a separate packet and named, for 3/6. NEW CULINARY PEAS Of very first-class quality, many of which have received Certificates from the Royal Horticultural Society, are also described in the Catalogue. Choice Pansy, Cineraria & Primula, 1/-, 1/6, 2/6 & 5/- per packet, POST FREE. HENRY ECKFORD, WEM, SHROPSHIRE. WHEN YOUR TREES ARE PRUNED, nail only with « DEAN’S ” MEDICATED GARDEN SHREDS. “SaLWIATID "IT AXAd telicins in. 4d., 3 in. 60., 4 in. 94., 5 in. 1/-, 6 in. 1/3, per 100. FOR NAILING WALL TREES, VINES, AND CLIMBING PLANTS, NEAT. STRONG. DURABLE. They discourage and sicken Insects, whereas woollen scraps, leather cuttings, and rags harbour and encourage them. A necessity in all well ordered gardens. Wholesale Agents OSMAN & CO., 132, Commercial St., LONDON, E. Sold by all iceman acres Seedsmen and Nursery Gardeners. WRIGHT & HOLMES’ PATENT GLAZING BAR For Horticultural Buildings. mi Horticultural Builders. MOSELEY ROAD, BIRMINGHAM. ‘WVHONIWUIG ‘VOY AITaSOW ‘SAQUIDUT Ja}BK JOH SECTION, FTER many years experience with Horticultural Buildings and trials of systems of glazing, we have found that this plan is the best yet discovered, and has answered admirably everywhere where it has been tried. Each bar is made in two parts and the lower half has a raised fillet in the centre and on each side of this fillet is a groove. The lower half is fixed at the top and bottom to the radial ribs with the grooves upwards, a copper clip is fixed at the lower end of the bar, the panes of glass are laid on with their edges coming up to the side of the raised fillet and,to prevent their slipping out of position, the copper clip is turned up and lies flat upon the upper surface of the glass. Thecap forming the upper part of bar is grooved to fit the raised fillet of the lower portion of the bar, and the two are screwed firmly together, the glass being thus secured between by the use of three square-headed copper screws made specially for the purpose. The two halves when screwed together form a water gutter from end to end, consequently should any water find its way in at the edges of the glass it runs down the grooves to the outside and cannot possibly find its way into the house. ‘NOILVOITdd¥ NO SLSIT FOldd ‘pojured pus ‘pezels ‘paxy ‘uo0l}ejg ABMIVYy esnoy B sjusseada / Y 4 My "WVHONIAYIG 3.000" SANTOH 9 LHDIUM ‘SUOPJING [BAN][NIIAOH WRIGHT & HOLMES, Practical Horticultural Builders & Hot-Water Apparatus Engineers, MOSELEY ROAD, BIRMINGHAM. WROUGHT a BZ \ No. 17. 2in. to 3in. WELDED Waterway. PLAIN SADDLE No. 18. 4in, Waterway. BOILER. $ S1zk OF Bor ER Approximate _—s~Price of Price of ae | Heauine’ Power. Boller. Boiler. long. inside arch. 4in. Pipe. No. 17. No. 18. ox W Lb. ft. et, Si we E> Se) ie I 18 x 10 It 200 ; BR oa 3 2 18 {2° %. 12 250 2-17) 6 3 21 ror x, LI 225 2 An 6 4 21 Oe. AZ X12 275 5.2136 5 2 I 11 250 217 G 6 2 2) axl a 300 Ss: Fh 7 24 x I4 X I4 350 5 OW ja bs She 5 27 x 12 {2 325 3.15 © -5 12 6 9 27 Xx 14 X 14 375 4 5 0 610 o 10 30 a 350 4 0 0 G2 6 11 30 I4 x I4 425 4.17 6 Lene 12 33 i2'.X%,-12 400 4 10 Oo 615 o b] 3 000 AMATEURS’ BOILER. yx 100 Kr) Ss Ww A FIN 3 —a Toa op) we i Titi he, >, _ inn a S = “~ W | ~ . + oe = a, ||| is a Me — Ge al Yd LR00 900: S =a0 2 o ™ N OG > io = oS AO E gig ) | a x xm =] ea 2 : |= wo = ls wee) & om |= oe: = ‘3g x X X = = LQ = | +7 A Hgnht. 2 2 29 SEND FOR OUR NEW CATALOGUE (200 PAGES). No Gardener should be without tt. THE ORIGINAL CELEBRATED ORCHID PEAT. All rich brown pure bracken fibre. SELECTED, IN TURVES, with dust and roots taken out, 10/- per sack. SPECIALLY PREPARED, ready for use, all pure fibre, — 12/- per cask or sack. Second Quality Orchid Peat, 2/- per sack less. N.B.— ORCHID YELLOW LOAM FIBRE, wee per sack. TEAKWOOD ORCHID BASKETS, (OUR OWN MANUFACTURE.) Made in sets with Copper Hangers, or in separate sizes. SPHAGNUM MOSS. Fresh and Green. 2/6 per bushel, 7/6 per sack. SEND FOR CATALOGUE. W. WOOD & SON, PRLS. (ESTABLISHED 1850), Woop Green, LONDON, N. Have you received our Vew Catatogue ? LE“NOT, SEND! POST CARB: MANURES. W. Wood & Son’s Prize Manure, “LE FRUITIER.” (The unrivalled Fruit Manure.) Sold in tins, 1/3; 7 lbs., 2/6; 4 cwt., 10/6; cwt., 19/- W. WOOD & SON’S LIQUID MANURE POWDER. (The Exhibitors’ Favourite.) Tins, 1/6; 7 lbs., 3/-; 4 ewt., 13/6; cwt., 25/- PERUVIAN GUANO. CONCENTRATED FISH MANURE. SULPHATE OF AMMONIA. SUPERPHOSPHATES. KAINIT. _ GYPSUM. NITRATE OF SODA, &e., &e. SOTLS. PEAT for ORCHIDS (see other page). " » HARDWOOD and STOVE PLANTS, 8/- sack ‘4 bush). " ne MEODODENDRONS 2 iicdbeii

3842 ete 216 i) RR ALS? 0G 5 5/3 n Ew. 7K» 33% 244°. 2/9 n K...13° 7% 524 6/6 Any other size Box made to order. -———— —~»—+ ——__- - Works: School Lane, LIVERPOOL. ESTABLISHED 1818. The extensive ranges of Metallic Hothouses in the Royal Gardens at Windsor and Osborne were executed at this Establishment. HENRY HOPE, Horticultural Builder and Heating Engineer, @ 55, LIONEL STREET, BIRMINGHAM. => Sor ete Sk . ae ert Pei > NS NS 7: v ef Peng ABS ow ))) yy iter = = Conservatory, Fernery, Vineries, and Orchid Houses, erected at Highbury, near Birmingham, for the Right Hon. Joseph Chamberlain, M.P. = alse Ns GUARANTEED x55 pit pon AT MODERATE | 6S \\) 5 PRICES. \ gi ORCHID HOUSES, &c., Erected in all parts of the Kingdom, with all latest improvements in construction and heating. BLAKE & MACKENZIE’S GARDENERS’ AND FLORISTS' ak os useful little article is almost indispensable to the Gardener who desires to keep his wire in good condition, and will save him no end of time and worry, as each size of wire required for binding and mounting can be kept separately, and will not be scattered about the bench and wasted, as is too often the case. The reels containing the binding wire revolve on spindles, and can be removed at will; either long or short reels may be used. The TIDY is made of strong tin, japanned inside and out, and will last many years. Packed in boxes ready for sending out, 2/9 each ; post fres, 3/8. Works: School Lane, LIVERPOOL. “KENT, THE GARDEN OF ENGLAND.” @eo,000 FRUIT TREES TRUE TO NAME, THE GRANDEST STOCK IN EUROPE. BOTH MARKET AND GARDEN TREES. Very Clean and well Trained. POT ORCHARD-HOUSE TREES, FIGS, VINES, &c. The New Descriptive Illustrated List, 6 Stamps. STOUT-CROWNED STRAWBERRIES. New List in anand LIBERAL TERMS, FREE CARRIAGE, and ‘CASH DISCOUNTS. GEORGE BUNYARD & CO. Picels (tHE GROWERS, Sc, THE OLD NURSERIES, MAIDSTONE. PRAT—PRICES—SBASON, 1894. 1. ORCHID PEAT.- Best Qualitv,, Hard Fibre, 10/6 per Sack of 3 Bushels, free on Rail, Hamworthy Station, S.W.R. Cleaned, dry, beaten, and prepired for u-e. 2.HARDWOOD PEAT.—Best Quality, selected, cleaned, for Camellias, Azaleas, Heaths, and New Hoiland Plants, 5/3 ver Sack of 3 Bushels, free on Rail, Hamworthy Station, S.W.R. 3. BROWN PEAT for General Greenhouse Use, 2/9 per Sack of 3 Bushels, in any quantry. free on Rail, Hamworthy Station, 5. W.R: 4. LOOSE PEAT for Nursery Work, very good value, 1/9 per Sack, free on Rail, Hamwor hy Stition, S.W.R. 5. FRESH GATHERED SPHAGNUM, 10/6 per Bag of 3 Bushels Suppiica to Orchid Peat Customers only. faze ALL SACKS INCLUDED FREE. Terms —CASH with Oraer. Gieaued and Postal Orders Crossed National Provincial Bank of England. WeLlKhER & CO., POOLE, ;Dorsez (lace Farnhoro, Hants.), ESTABLISHED 1867. P.S.—We deal in Peat alome, and have many thousands of acres under lease here for cutting tu roses. Price per Truck Load of 12 cubic yards and above of Nos. 2, 3 and 4 on application. No. 1 supplied in Bags only. Sheds, where Peat can be seen in quantity, at Hamworthy Railway Wharf, S.W. Railway. THE NATIONAL ROSE SOCIETY'S EXHIBITION LABEL, BARONESS ROTHSCHILD. HE above is a fac-simile copy of one of the EXHIBITION ROSE LABELS selected by a committee of the NATIONAL ROSE SocIiETY, and recommended for the use of Exhibitors in the place of written labels; and in accordance with the request of the General Committee of this Society, we now print a number of these Labels, which may be obtained at the following low rates :-— For a Complete Set of Labels, viz., Six of each of the Names mentioned in the National Rose Society’s ‘** Catalogue of Exhibition Roses for 1890,” the charge will be 11/6, post free, net cash. For a Complete Set of Labels as above, containing only Three of each Name, 6/-, post free. net cash. If preferred, any name may be selected from the Society's Catalogue, and will be supplied at 2d. per dozen Labels. Names not mentioned in the National Rose Society’s Catalogue will be printed as required, and supplied at 3d. for Half a Dozen Labels of any one Name. If a Dozen Labels of any one Name be ordered, only 4d. per dozen will be charged. . oe 2 oe ~ BLAKE ¢ MACKENZIE, Printers, Publishers and Stationers, SCHOOL LANE, LIVERPOOL. Violas, Pansies, é&c. WILLIAM DEAN, DOLPHIN ROAD, SPARKHILI, BIRMINGHAM, OFFERS: | 12 very fine varieties of VIOLAS, by name, post free 3/- 24 " " " \" " O/- 12 choice Fancy Exhibition PANSIES, by name, post free 4’- Choice Fancy PANSY Seed Peacock Faney PANSY Seed Hardy PRIMROSE, several colours. | Dean's superb Double and Single CANTERBURY secre several colours, 6d. per pkt. > Each, 1/- per pkt. Agent for ECKFORD’S SUPERB VARIETIES OF SWERT PEAS. LILIES ! LILIES ! ! LILIES ! Thes ade a Speciality of | WALLACE & 60.. Goi cuesteR BULBS FOR SPRING steer ales IMPORTED LILIES, ous Bulbs ed at unheard of Low Prices. BEGONIAS, grand strain. Le woes G Sp rae: I, TIG RIDIAS, &e., &c. 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