\°n° I

AMERICAN

FLOWER GARDEN DIRECTORY:

CONTAINING

PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS FOR THE CULTURE OF PLANTS

IN THE

FLOWER GARDEN, HOT-HOUSE, GREEN-HOUSE, ROOMS, OR
PARLOUR WINDOWS,

FOR EVERY MONTH IN THE YEAR.

WITH

A DESCRIPTION OF THE PLANTS MOST DESIRABLE IN EACH, THE NATURE OF

THE SOIL, AND SITUATION BEST ADAPTED TO THEIR GROWTH,

THE PROPER SEASON FOR TRANSPLANTING, ETC.

WITH INSTRUCTIONS FOR ERECTING A

HOT-HOUSE, GREEN-HOUSE, AND LAYING OUT A FLOWER
GARDEN,

THE WHOLE ADAPTED TO EITHER LARGE OR SMALL GARDENS,

WITH INSTRUCTIONS FOR PREPARING THE SOIL, PROPAGATING,
PLANTING, PRUNING, TRAINING AND FRUITING THE

GRAPE VINE.

WITH DESCRIPTIONS OF THE BEST SORTS FOR CULTIVATING IN THE OPEN AIB.

THIRD EDITION, WITH NUMEROUS ADDITIONS.

BY ROBERT BUIST,

NURSERYMAN AND 'FLORIST.

PHILADELPHIA:

CAREY AND HART.
1845.

E!*TEKED according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1845, by CAREY & HART,
in. the Clerk's Oifice of the District Court for the Eastern District of Penn-
sylvania.

PHILADELPHIA t

T. K. &. P. G. COLLINS,

PRINTERS.

PREFACE

TO THE FIRST EDITION.

THIS volume owes its existence principally to the re-
peated requests of a number of our fair patrons and ama-
teur supporters, whose inquiries and wishes for a practical
manual on Floriculture, at last induced us to prepare a
work on the subject. That now offered is given unaffect-
edly and simply as a plain and easy treatise on this in-
creasingly interesting subject. It will at once be perceived
that there are no pretensions to literary claims — the 'direc-
tions are given in the simplest manner — the arrangement
made as lucidly as was in our power — and the whole is
presented with the single wish of its being practically
useful. How far our object has been attained, of course
our readers must judge. Nothing has been intentionally
concealed ; and all that is asserted is the result of minute
observation, close application, and an extended continuous
experience from childhood. We pretend not to infallibility,
and are not so sanguine as to declare our views the most
perfect that can be attained. But we can so far say, that
the practice here recommended has been found very suc-
cessful.

Some, very probably, may be disappointed in not having
the means of propagating as clearly delineated as those of
culture ; but to have entered into all the minutiae connected
therewith, would have formed materials for two volumes
larger than the present. We might have described that
branch, as it has already been done in works published

both on this continent and in Europe. In one of the former
it is said, " You may now propagate many kinds (Exotic
Plants} by suckers, cuttings and layers, which should be
duly attended to, particularly such as are scarce and diffi-
cult to be obtained." And the directions given in one of
the most extensive works in Europe on the propagation of
an extensive genus, varied in character and constitution,
run thus : " Cuttings of most kinds will strike root. From
the strongest growing kinds, take off large cuttings at a
joint, and plunge them in a pot of sand under a hand-glass
in the bark bed. Of the smaller kinds, take younger kinds
and put them under a bell-glass, also plunged in heat. The
sooner the plants are potted off after they are rooted the
better."

Such instructions to the inexperienced are imperfect
and unavailing, which, we flatter ourselves, is not the
character that will attach to the present work. We are
well aware that there are persons who, to show their own
superior abilities, may cavil and say that there is nothing
new. To such critics it may be answered, if arranging,
simplifying, digesting and rendering Floriculture attainable
by the humblest capacity, with useful lists and tables on a
plan quite novel, as we believe, offer nothing new, it may
at least be called an improvement. However, we submit
all to a generous public, to whom we are already under
many obligations.

HIBBERT & BUIST.

PHILADELPHIA, Jjprtt 18th, 1832.

INTRODUCTION.

WE are again called upon to present to the Public the
Third Edition of this popular Work on the Culture of
Flowers — a taste that is now widely disseminating itself;
in fact, a knowledge of which is requisite before a refined
education is completed. We boldly and fearlessly say,
that no country has made such rapid advancement in the
art and science of Horticulture in so short a period, as
these United States. Wherever the taste prevails, it dif-
fuses a peace and harmony among its participants without
either symbol or mystery. In this edition a feast of new
material has been served up ; entire lists have been can-
celed and replaced with those of newer and finer forms
and habits ; extraneous matter and plants of indifferent
character are dropped, and every improvement in the art
up to this present time introduced.

True, we have not dilated on the wonderful effects of
electricity upon vegetation, nor have we been extravagant
in the results of guano in the growth of plants. With re-
gard to the former, the capability of its reduction to general
practice has yet to be proven — and the latter has to be
cautiously used, and even then its beneficial effects are
not universal. However, it can in a liquid state be used
to advantage on almost any plant, especially those of strong
habits, such as the Rose, Geranium, Fuchsia, Heliotrope,
Chrysanthemum, &c. To such, the following proportions
will be very beneficial: 1 Ib. of guano to 5 galls, of water;
after standing 12 or more hours, can be used in the routine
of watering once a week or even once in two weeks ; but
to plants that have more delicate and silky rootlets, such
as Epacris, Erica, Jlzalea, &c., the liquid must be reduced
one half.

Our descriptions of plants have been conveyed more
with the view of giving an idea of their character to the
1*

VI INTRODUCTION.

general reader, than an accurate botanical synopsis, which
would have been known to the botanist alone. All that
we have described and recommended have, with a few
exceptions, passed under our own observation, and are
such as are worthy of cultivation, either for beauty of
flower, foliage or habit, together with those celebrated in
arts and medicine. Many may, possibly, have passed
unobserved, either from their being very generally known
or difficult to obtain ; but in no case has there been sup-
pression from business prejudices. Where the words
" our collections," occur, they are meant for those of the
county generally.

All our observations have been guided by dint of prac-
tice ; and, although others may differ, this is designedly
and professedly given as the result of our own experience.
The plan lakl down is our own routine of culture ; the
soils are those which we adopt ; but, at the same time,
conceding that every art and profession is subject to im-
provement, and none more so than American horticulture.
The table of soils was originally constructed at the expense
of much investigation and labour, and has, also, in this
edition, undergone considerable improvement. To every
one that has but a single plant, it will be found invaluable.
Although the publications in Europe on Gardening and
Floriculture are profuse, yet many of their directions,
when practised in the United States, prove almost a dead
letter, — not so with their architectural and horticultural
designs. The estates of the wealthy are susceptible of
great improvement ; they want more of the picturesque,
and (to use the word of the veteran pioneer of horticul-
ture) gardenesque effect, to relieve their premises from
the monotonous erections and improvements which seem
to govern all. On culture, a work adapted to the climate
must (and no other can) be the guide in this country : on
this account, a work like the present has been a desidera-
tum to aid the very rapid advancement of the culture of
flowers among the intelligent of our flourishing republic.

R. BUIST.
PHILADELPHIA, July, 1845.

TABLE OF CONTENTS.

PAGE

JTLOWKH GARDEN, - - - . . - 13

JANUARY.

Of Framing, 17

Of Pruning, ...... 13

FEBRUARY.

Of Pruning, ....... 19

Of Planting Shrubs, ..... 21

Of Hyacinths, &c. - - - - . -24

MARCH.

Of Framing, - - - - - . -25

List of Choice Annuals for a Hot-Bed, 27

List of Choice Hardy Annuals, - - - - 29

Box Edgings, ...... 33

Grass and other Edgings, - - - - - 33

List of Hardy Biennials, .... 34

List of Hardy Perennials, - • - - - 35

Bulbous Roots, ...... 48

Carnations, Pinks, Primroses, &c., - - 49

Auriculas, ...... 50

Ranunculus and Anemone, - - - - 50

Roses, ...... 51

Roses, climbing, - - - - - - 55

Deciduous ornamental flowering Shrubs, - - 56

Grass Plats and Walks, 56

Gravel Walks, 58

Grafting, - - - - - - -59

APRIL.

Annuals, - - • • - - -60

Hybrid Chinese Roses, • • - - - 61

Perpetual Roses, ...... 64

Vlll CONTENTS.

Grafting Roses, - - - - - - 66

Bourbon Roses, - - - - - - 67

Bengal Roses, ...... 68

Tea Roses, - - - - - - - 71

Noisette Roses, ...... 74

Musk Roses, ....... 77

Climbing Roses, ...... 78

Microphylla Roses, - - - - - - 81

Climbing Plants, -

Deciduous and Evergreen Shrubs, - - - 87
Care of Choice Bulbs, -

Anemone and Ranunculus, - - - - - 90
Auricula, - .....91

Carnation and Pink, .... 92

Culture of Heartsease, ..... 93

Jacobsea Lily and Tiger Flower, - - - - 96

Walks, 97

Evergreen Hedges, - - - - - 98

Box Edgings, ...... 99

MAY.

Dahlia, propagation of, by cuttings, .... 101

Dahlia, propagation of, by grafting, - - - 102

Dahlias, List of, ..... - 104

Dahlias, Character of, - - - - - 107

Care of Hyacinths and Tulips, - - 109

Auricula and Polyanthus, - - 110

Primrose and Wallflower, - - - - - 110

JUNE AND JULY.

Autumn Flowering Bulbs, - - - - 111

Carnations and Pinks, .....

Budding Roses, - - - - - -114

Watering, 116

AUGUST.

Evergreen Hedges, - - - - - - 116

Carnations, Pinks and Bulbous Roots, - - - 117

Sowing Seeds of Bulbous Roots, - - - 118

SEPTEMBER.

Preparation of Beds for Bulbous Roots, - - 119

Sowing and Saving Seeds, - - 120

OCTOBER.

Of Planting Bulbous and Tuberous Roots, - - - 121

Of Planting Evergreens, .... 126

CONTENTS. IX

NOVEMBER.

Of Taking up Dahlia Roots, - - - - -127

Of Taking up Tuberoses, Tigridias,&c., - - 128

Of Carnations, Pinks, Pansies and Auriculas, - - 129

Of Protecting Plants, ..... 130

Of Planting Deciduous Trees and Shrubs, - - 130

DECEMBER.

General Observations, ... . 131

HOTHOUSE.
Construction of a Hothouse, - - 133

JANUARY.

Firing and Fuel, ...... 137

Watering, - 138

Of Insects — their Destruction, - - 139

Of cleansing Plants, House, &c., - 143

FEBRUARY.

Of repotting Plants, - .... 145

Of Cleansing Plants-, House, &c., - - 147

MARCH.

Of Repotting Plants, - H8

APRIL.
Of Repotting Cactae, - - 149

MAY.

Of Repotting Plants, - - - 150

Of bringing out the Hothouse Plants, ... 178

Of Succulents, - - - - - - 179

JUNE AND JULY.
General Observations, -. - - - 180

AUGUST.
Of Painting and Repairing the Hothouse, ... 181

SEPTEMBER.
Of Dressing and taking in the Plants, ... 182

X CONTENTS.

PAGE

OCTOBER.

General Observations, - - - 183

NOVEMBER.

Of a Cistern and Water, - - - 185
DECEMBER.

Of Shutters, - - 186

General Observations, ..... 187

Of Air Plants, - - 187

GREENHOUSE.

On the Construction of a Greenhouse, - - 191

JANUARY.

General Observations, - - - - 192

Of Watering Camellias, &c., - 193

Of Cleaning Oranges and Lemons, .... 194

Of Cape and other Bulbs, .... 195

FEBRUARY.

Of Cape Bulbs, 196

Of Camellia Japonica, - - 197

MARCH.

General Observations, ... 200

Of Geraniums, - - 201

Of Herbaceous Plants and Cape Bulbs, - - 202

Of Enarching or Grafting by Approach, ... 268

APRIL.

Of Watering, - - 270

Of Oranges, Lemons, &c., - - 271

Of Myrtles, Oleanders and Geraniums, ... 272

Of Flowering Stocks, ..... 274

MAY.

Of bringing out the Greenhouse Plants, - - 275

Of Repotting Plants, ..... 276

Of Camellias and Cape Bulbs, - - - - 278

CONTENTS. XI
PAG*

JUNE AND JULY.

General Observations, - - - - -279

AUGUST.

Of Geraniums, - - - - 280

Of Oranges and Lemons, .... 281

Of Pruning Lemons, 282

Of Repotting Bulbs, 283

SEPTEMBER.

Of Repairing the Greenhouse, .... 285

Of Preparing for taking in the Plants, - - - 286

Of Chrysanthemums, ..... 287

Of Cape and Holland Bulbs, - - - - 287

OCTOBER.

Of taking in and arranging the Plants, ... 290

Of Repotting, - .... 291

Of Camellias, ...... 293

Of Sowing Camellia Seeds, .... 294

NOVEMBER.

Of Air and Water, 295

General Observations, ----- 295

DECEMBER.

General Observations, - - - - - 296

Of Bulbous Roots, ..... 297

ROOMS.

Treatment of Plants in Rooms, - - - 298—316

On the Culture of the Grape, - - - 317—333

THE

AMERICAN FLOWER GARDEN
DIRECTORY.

ON LAYING OUT A FLOWER GARDEN.

THE Flower Garden is chiefly devoted to the cultivation
of showy flowering plants, shrubs and trees, either natives
of this country or those of a foreign clime : it is a refined
appendage to a country seat, "suburban" villa, or city re-
sidence ; every age has had its principles of taste, and
every country its system of gardening. Our limits do not
permit us to enter minutely into the details of any of these
systems, but a few hints may not be out of place to those
whose design is the laying out or improvement of the gar-
den. The Italian style is characterized by broad terraces
and parallele walks, having the delightful shade and agree-
able fragrance of the orange and the myrtle. Terraces may
be advantageously adopted to surmount steep declivities ;
and, if judiciously laid out, would convert a sterile bank
into a beautiful promenade, or choice flower garden.

The French partially adopt the above system, interspers-
ing it with parterres and figures of statuary work of every
character and description. When such is well designed
and neatly executed, it has a lively and interesting effect ;
but now the refined taste says these vagaries are too fan-
tastic, and entirely out of place. A late writer says of
Dutch gardening, that it " is rectangular formality :" they
take great pride in trimming their trees of yew, holly, and
other evergreens, into every variety of form, such as mops,
2

14 ON LAYING OUT A FLOWER GARDEN.

moons, halberds, chairs, &c. In such a system it is in-
dispensable to order that the compartments correspond in
formality, nothing being more offensive to the eye than
incongruous mixtures of character.

The beauty of English gardening consists in an artful
imitation of nature, and is consequently much dependent
on aspect and locality. It is a desideratum where wood
and water can be combined with the flower garden, and
the practical eye can dispose of an object to advantage by
interspersing shrubbery and walks, that the combined ob-
jects form an agreeable whole. They are not to be disposed
with a view to their appearance in a picture, but to the use
and enjoyment of them in real life.

We will now endeavour to give an explicit exposition of
a system adapted to our variable climate of extreme heat
and excessive cold. Where choice of aspects can be ob-
tained, preference should be given to a south-east or east;
but, if not, south or south-west, and, if possible, sheltered
by rising ground or full grown woods from the north-west
and north. But to lay down directions for a. flower garden
is not a little difficult, seeing that there cannot be any given
area or any description of local circumstances applicable
to all situations. A good soil is the sure foundation on
which to rear the grand floral superstructure, and the most
genial is a sandy loam : I mean by sandy loam a soil which
contains from one-sixth to one-tenth of sand ; and if on a
gravelly or sandy bottom, so much the better. Where the
general surface is gently undulating, it will greatly add to
the beauty of arrangement ; if access to a spring can be ob-
tained, it will prove a desideratum in completing the whole:
it can be available for a fish-pond or an aquarium, or can be
converted into a swamp for the cultivation of many of our
most beautiful and interesting native plants, such as Haba-
naria, Lilium, Sarracenia, Dionea, &c., and on the margin
of which (if partially shaded) can be planted the beautiful
varieties of Azaleas, and the splendid flowering Rho-
dodendron, which, by the by, are almost entirely neglected
in all our floral decorations. With many, the arrangement
of a flower garden is rather a matter for the exercise of
fancy, than one calling for the application of refined taste :
true, it may be said there is no mathematical law to guide
the designer, so that if he avoid incongruity of arrange-

ON LAYING OUT A FLOWER GARDEN. 15

ment the end is accomplished. But, in commencing these
operations, a design should be kept in view that will tend
to expand, improve and beautify the situation ; not, as we
too frequently see it, the parterre and borders with narrow
walks up to the very household entrance : such is decided-
ly bad taste, unless compelled for want of room. For per-
spicuity, admit that the area to be enclosed should be from
one to three acres, a circumambient walk should be traced
at some distance within the fence, by which the whole is
enclosed ; the inferior walks should partly circumscribe
and intersect the general surface in an easy serpentine and
sweeping manner, and at such distances as would allow an
agreeable view of the flowers when walking for exercise.
Walks may be in breadth from three to twenty feet, although
from four to ten feet is generally adopted ; and, to have
these dry and permanent, those that are to be much used
should have six to eight inches of the bottom soil dug out
in a concave manner, and in the centre of the concave dig
out a trench of about nine inches square to form a drain,
which may be made with brick or filled with rough stone,
and the concave may be filled with refuse of buildings or
broken stone within three inches of the desired height,
which should be covered with gravel, and then firmly rolled
with a heavy roller. Where the gravel cannot be obtained
sand may be used, mixed with a few small stones to bind
it, but such needs very repeated rolling. Walks, such as
described, when completely finished, will last for ages ; but
many will not be disposed to go to such expense : to those
we say use tanner's bark, which is very cheap and ac-
cessible to all. The outer margin of the garden should be
planted with the largest trees and shrubs : the interior ar-
rangement may be in detached groups of shrubbery and
parterres. In order that the whole should not partake of
an uniform and graduated character, it should be broken
and diversified by single trees planted in the turf, or aris-
ing in scattered groups from a base of shrubs. In some
secluded spot rock-work or a fountain, or both, may be
erected; the foundation of the former should consist of
mounds of earth, which will answer the purpose of more
solid erections, and will make the stones go farther : rocks
of the same kind and colour should be placed together, and
the greatest possible variety of character, size and form,

16 ON LAYING OUT A FLOWER GARDEN.

should be studied, the whole showing an evident and well-
defined connection. These erections generally are stiff
artificial disjointed masses, and often decorated with plants
having no affinity to their arid location. The undertaking,
when well completed, will present a field of varied and in-
teresting study, and more than compensate for the labour
and expense bestowed upon it. If it is desired that the
flower garden should be a botanical study, there should be
some botanical arrangement adopted.

The Linnean system is the most easily acquired. A
small compartment laid out in beds might contain plants of
all the twenty-four classes, and a few of all the hardy orders
which do not exceed one hundred. Or, to have their na-
tural characters more assimilated, the Jussieuean system
could be carried into effect by laying down a grass plat to
any extent above one quarter of an acre, and cut therein
small figures to contain the natural families, which of hardy
plants we do not suppose wrould exceed one hundred and
fifty. The difficulties of this arrangement are, that many
of the characters are imperfectly known even to the most
scientific. (Professor Lindley has given additional light
on the subject by his last publication.) All the large divi-
s,ions should be intersected by small alleys, or paths, about
one and a half or two feet wide. When there is not a
green-house attached to the flower garden, there should be
at least a few sashes of framing or a forcing pit to bring
forward early annuals, &c., for early blooming. These
should be situate in some spot detached from the garden
by a fence of Roses, trained to trellises, Chinese Arbour
vitse, Privet, or even Maclura makes excellent fences ; and,
when properly trimmed, are very ornamental : they require
to be neatly and carefully clipped with shears every Sep-
tember. In the southern states Noisette and China Roses,
with a profusion of Sweetbriar, would make the most
beautiful of all fences, and could be very easily obtained :
a fence three hundred feet long would only cost about one
hundred and twenty dollars. Frames for forcing should
be made of plank two inches thick, and well put together ;
the sash should be from five to seven feet long, and from
three to four feet wide, and filled with six by eight glass.
In the framing ground should be kept the various soils
required for plants, and also various characters of manure

/an.] FRAMING. 17

at all times ready for use, the whole in regular heaps,
and kept free from weeds. Having given these brief
outlines of a flower garden, we now proceed to give
monthly directions for planting and keeping the same in
order.

JANUARY.

IF the covering of the beds of choice bulbs, herbaceous
plants, or tender shrubs, has been neglected last month, let
it be done forthwith. The season is now precarious and
delays are dangerous. For particular directions, see De-
cember. Any bulbous roots that have been kept out of the
ground should be planted immediately, according to direc-
tions in October. Some writers have recommended keep-
ing some of the bulbs until this month, in order to have a
continued succession. Experience will prove the ineffi-
cacy of the plan, and will satisfactorily show that the dif-
ference is almost imperceptible, while the flowers are very
inferior and much degenerated; and in place of having
" a long-continued succession of bloom," there appear,
along with your finest specimens, very imperfect flowers,
calculated to discourage the admirers of these " gaudy"
decoratives of our flower gardens. Whereas, every art
employed should be to the advancement and perfection of
nature.

OF FRAMING, &c.

The plants and roots that are in frames, should be pro-
tected with straw mats and boards, and the frame surround-
ed with litter, or leaves, or, what is more advisable, banked
with turf — the former being a harbour for mice and other
vermin. For full directions, see December. Under this
head the plants, such as Auriculas, Polyanthus, Daisies,
Carnations, Pinks, Pentstemons, Campanula pyrami-
dalis, Double rocket, Double stock, or Stockgillys, Double
2*

18 OF PRUNING. [Jan.

Wall-flower, Anemone, Ranunculus, &c., as previously
enumerated as frame plants, will require very little water,
and be sure to give none while they are in a frozen state.
If snow should cover them, the plants will keep in a fine
state under it, so never remove snow from covering cold
frames, even suppose it should lie for weeks, — nature will
operate here herself. But when framing cannot be obtain-
ed, they will in this latitude keep tolerably, if gently co-
vered with leaves or litter, using means to secure them
from being blown over the garden.

OF PRUNING.

It is not advisable to carry on a general system of prun-
ing in this month, in whatever state the weather may be.
The severest frosts generally are yet to come, and too fre-
quently what is done now in this operation has to be
repeated in the spring, causing, at that time, work to a
disadvantage; because, if "pruning, when done just now,
is accomplished judiciously, whatever more is requisite to
be done in the spring on the same bush, will be injudi-
cious. Hence, it is far preferable to delay it till the frost
is nearly over, when all can be done to advantage. There
are, undoubtedly, hardy trees and some shrubs, that may
be pruned and thinned out at any time from the first of
November to the first of March ; such as Cratoegus, Sor-
bus, Spirea and even Althea, in the middle states ; (the
Double white Althea is very tender and requires to be co-
vered.) The tying together the loose branches of Juniper,
Cedar and Arbour vitse should be particularly attended to,
as heavy snow frequently destroys the shape of those hand-
some shrubs by breaking down the branches, &c. — When
the snow is heavy, the precaution of shaking it off should
be resorted to. In many seasons, the beginning of this
month is open and admits of the operation of digging in
open quarters, which if not done, as advised last month,
ought not to be delayed. The fruits of it will appear in
the mellowed state of your soil in spring.

If there is any spare time, tallies, straight sticks or stakes,
may be prepared for summer use. Tie them up in neat
bundles, which will be of great service during the hurried

Feb.~] OF PRUNING, «fec. 19

period of the year. An opportunity of this kind should
always be laid hold of; the beneficial results will in season
be displayed.

FEBRUARY.

WHEN the borders and various compartments were dug
in the autumn, and compost, or a thin coating of well de-
composed manure given, the advantage will now, in part,
be experienced. If the weather is open about the end of
the month, the pruning should be done with the utmost
despatch, that all may be prepared for a general dressing
next month, and let nothing be delayed which can now pro-
perly be accomplished, under the idea that there is time
enough.

OF PRUNING, &c.

Generally, about the end of the month, the very severe
frosts are over, and when none need be apprehended that
would materially injure hardy shrubs, they may be freely
pruned, and the points cut of such shoots as may have been
damaged by the winter. Most of shrubs require nothing
more than to be thinned of straggling, irregular and injured
branches, or of suckers that rise round the root, observing,
that they do not intermingle with each other. Never trim
them up in a formal manner; regular shearing of shrubs,
and topiary work, have been expelled as unworthy a taste,
the least improved by reflections on beauty, simplicity and
grandeur of nature.

In fact, the pruning of deciduous hardy shrubs, should
be done in such a manner as not to be observable when the
plants are covered with verdure. It may frequently be ob-
served in flower gardens, that roses and shrubs of every
description are indiscriminately cut with the shears, the
dmorphas, Viburnums and Altheas sharing the same fate.

Robinias, Coluteas, Cyticus, RMs, Genistas, with seve-

30 OF PRUNING, &c. [Feb.

ral of the Viburnums, and many others, bear their flowers
on the wood of last year, and when thus sheared afford no
gratification in flowering. And those shrubs that thus
flower on the shoots of last year, are perhaps worse to keep
in regular order than those to which the knife can be
freely applied; but good management while young will
ensure handsome free flowering plants.

Climbing shrubs, and others that are trained against out-
buildings, walls, or such as are sheltered thereby, and not
now in danger of suffering by frost, may be pruned and
dressed. These should be neatly trimmed, and the branches
moderately thinned out, tying in all the shoots straight and
regular. Avoid, at all times, the crossing of any shoots.

There is not a shrub in the garden that agrees so well
with close cutting, as the Mthea, and all its varieties.
These can be made either bushes or trees, and kept at any
desired height. Where the wood of last year is cut to
about two or three inches from the wood of the former year,
the young shoots of the coming season will produce the
largest and finest flowers, and likewise more profusely.
When they have attained the desired height, let them be
kept in the most natural and handsome shape that the taste
of the operator can suggest. They will bear cutting to any
degree.

Honeysuckles of every description may, with all free-
dom, be trimmed, providing the frost is not very severe.
These are very frequently allowed to become too crowded
with wood, and then superficially sheared or cut. The
flowers would be much finer, and the brush handsomer, if
they were regularly thinned out, divesting them of all na-
ked and superfluous shoots. Of those that remain, shorten
the shoots of last year. Where any of the honeysuckle
kind has become naked at the bottom, and flowering only
at the top of the trellis, or extremities of the shoots, one
half of the bush should be cut to within four inches of the
ground. It will throw out plenty of fine young wood, which
give room for, and train them straight, and to the full ex-
tent, during summer. These shoots will flower profusely
the following season, and in like manner, when thought
proper, the other half can be cut.

Roses of the hardy kinds (termed garden roses) that
were not attended to in November, should, if the weather

OF PLANTING SHRUBS, &C. 21

permit, be dressed and pruned forthwith. In small gar-
dens, where these are generally attached to the walls and
fences, neatness should be a very particular object. If any
of such bushes have got strong and irregular, the most
proper method to bring them to order, will be to cut down
each alternate shoot of the bush to within a few inches of
the surface, thereby renovating it, and, in part, preserving
the flowers. Those that are cut down will put out several
luxuriant shoots, which must be regularly tacked in,
spreading them in a fan shape. These, in another year,
will flower well, when the others may go through the same
operation. Thus, in two or three years, the bushes will
have resumed a different, and more agreeable aspect. By
the above treatment, these ornaments of the garden will
always have a neat and healthful appearance, and the roses
will be much finer. Where they are intended for the bor-
ders, they should never be allowed to get too high. In a
border from four to six feet, they ought never to exceed
four feet at the back of the border, and in front one foot,
after being pruned ; they can be kept down by the above
method. It is not advisable to cut down rose bushes all at
once, unless no regard is paid to flowering. The roses that
are in grass plats, and interspersed through the garden,
would have a superior appearance in every respect, if they
were kept and trimmed like small trees. They may be of
different sizes and heights, according to the distance they
are from the walk. A single stem may arise from six
inches to six feet, with a head in proportion to the height
of the stem. Where it is necessary to have them above
two feet, and likewise to carry a good head, inoculation
must be resorted to, which, in the months of July and Au-
gust, will be fully treated of. All under two feet (except
the weak growing kinds) will do on their own stems, tak-
ing care not to allow shoots to arise from the bottom during
the summer. For directions for pruning climbing roses,
see March and April. -

OF PLANTING SHRUBS, &c.

As soon as the frost is out of the ground, these should be
planted if the soil is not too wet. Where soil is binding,

22 OF PLANTING SHRUBS, &C.

upon no consideration plant it while wet, rather defer it
until the end of March.

Trees and shrubs, if they are well arranged, are the chief
ornaments, give the most pleasure, and afford the greatest
delight that we enjoy in our gardens. Although they give
no sort of nourishment, nor produce any edible fruits, yet
they are particularly grateful and conducive to our enjoy-
ments. Our walks in summer would be oppressive, but
for their agreeable shade ; in the fall and winter, we would
be left exposed to the chilling winds, but for the shelter
they afford.

Likewise they produce a great variety of flowers, a va-
ried foliage, and are standing ornaments that give no great
trouble. In the character of screens they are particularly
useful, whether to hide disagreeable objects, or as a guard
against the weather ; or, if they are planted in masses at
a distance, they soon become agreeable objects, frequently
very much improve the scenery of the place, become ob-
jects of utility as well as ornament, and, in such case,
afford the highest satisfaction. When formed so as to ex-
clude offices from the view of the house, or for sheltering
the latter, or for connecting the house with the garden,
orchard, or any similar purpose, shrubs are both useful and
interesting.

Where many shrubs are to be planted, the disposing of
them properly is a matter of considerable importance to the
future welfare of the whole ; and, whether deciduous or
evergreens be mixed or grouped, that is, indiscriminately
planted together, or the evergreens planted by themselves,
as is frequently done, a regular and natural arrangement is
indispensable for establishing ornament.

Arranging, no doubt, depends very much on fancy ; still,
there ought always to be plenty of evergreens planted, that
the whole may be more cheerful in winter.

If shrubberies were made to a great extent, the scenery
would be much more varied and characteristic by grouping
judiciously than by indiscriminately planting.

However, in small flower gardens and shrubberies, the
latter has to be adopted. In such places, tall growing kinds
should never be introduced, unless merely as a screen from
some disagreeable object, for they crowd and confuse the
whole. The dwarf and more bushy sorts should be placed

Feb.~] OF PLANTING SHRUBS, &C. 23

nearest to the eye, in order that they may conceal the naked
stems of the others. Generally when shrubs are planted,
they are small ; therefore, to have a good effect from the be-
ginning, they should be planted closer than they are in-
tended to stand. When they have grown a few years, and
interfere with each other, they can be lifted, and such as
have died, or become sickly, replaced, and the remainder
can be planted in some other direction. Keep them always
distinct, one from another, in order that they may be the
better shown off. But if it is not desired that they should
be thicker planted than it is intended to let them remain,
the small growing kinds may be six or eight feet apart ; the
larger, or taller sorts, ten to twenty feet, according to the
condition of the soil.

Thick masses of shrubbery, called thickets, are some-
times wanted. In these there should be plenty of ever-
greens. A mass of deciduous shrubs has no imposing
effect during winter ; and, as this is not the proper season
for planting evergreens, (April, and the end of September,
or first of October being best,) small stakes can be placed
in the destined spot. Planting in rows, or in any plan of
a formal character, should at all times be avoided.

In planting at this season, observe that the roots are not
much exposed to the air, especially if the wind be high and
sharp ; but it is always better, if possible, to defer the busi-
ness until good, mild weather. According to directions in
November, the ground will be well prepared, and only re-
quires a hole dug for the reception of the roots, which must
be considerably larger, that the roots may not be in the
least confined. Break the earth well at bottom, put in as
much as will receive the plant from one to two inches (ac-
cording to its size) lower than it has previously been in the
Nursery. If any of the roots are bruised or broken, cut
them off; then place the plant in the centre of the hole,
breaking fine all the soil that is put in, at the same time
shaking the stem a little, that the earth may mix with the
roots ; when full up, press all the soil down with the foot,
that it may, in some degree, consolidate about the roots,
and support the plant. Tall plants should have a good
stake for support, and place a small bandage between the
stake and stem of the shrub or tree, where the tie is made,
to prevent the bark from suffering by friction. Observe,

24 OF HYACINTH AND OTHER BULBS. [March.

always, before planting, if the soil is not suitable, to supply
that which is congenial to the nature of the intended plant.
When shrubs or trees are to be carried to any distance, the
roots should be carefully kept from air, by tying damp
moss, straw or mats about them, as circumstances will ad-
mit: the success, in part, depends on due attention being
paid, to prevent the roots drying before planting. Although
we have given the above directions for planting in this
month, it will frequently occur, that they can only be put
into practice during the next, as this month is often the
severest of the season.

OF HYACINTH AND OTHER BULBS.

Towards the end of the month, if the weather proves
favourable, the covering should be partially taken off from
the Hyacinths, Tulips and other bulbous roots. It some-
times occurs, that, by careless planting in the autumn, they
are thrown above ground by the frost, especially if the
ground is inclined to moisture, and they not being deep
enough planted : if such is the case, cover them with de-
cayed leaves, old tan, or soil, whichever is most convenient ;
if not done, the sun and air will overpower the bulbs, and
although the fibres have hold of the ground, the flowers
will be miserably weak.

MARCH.

As soon as the frost is entirely gone, uncover all plants
or shrubs that have been protected, preserving carefully
such of the materials as will answer the same purpose next
season. Cut off all decayed shoots, or such as have been
hurt by the frost. The Lagerstrosmias will flower in
greater perfection, if they are pruned closely ; that is, cut
the shoots of last year, to within two or three eyes of the
wood of the previous year, at the same time having regard
to the regular and natural shape of the bush. Cut off the

March.~] OF FRAMING. 25

injured foliage of any of the evergreens that have suffered
by the severity of the winter, but leave every green part
which is essential to the support of these kind of plants. It
is expected that all pruning of the shrubbery is finished ;
if not, get all expeditiously done according to directions
given in the preceding months. All work that can be
clone in this month, should not be delayed, such as hoeing,
digging, raking and clearing away all leaves and litter of
every description that have been brought or blown into the
garden during autumn or winter.

OF FRAMING.

Where it is desired to have the more showy annuals
early in bloom, it is necessary to prepare a hot-bed frame,
for the purpose of bringing them forward. It is time,
about the first of the month, to collect and prepare ma-
nure for the desired hot-bed ; and, as that operation, in
many instances, is very imperfectly performed, a few ob-
servations on the subject may be useful.

Take three parts of fresh hot stable manure, with one
part of fresh oak leaves. Have a sufficient quantity to make
the intended bed or beds from three to four feet high.
Shake and mix up both together in a compact conical heap
in order to encourage fermentation. If the weather is cold
and windy, cover it with straw or leaves and boards, which
is necessary to produce the desired effect. If fermentation
soon takes place, it will need to be thoroughly turned over
in eight or ten days. If any of it has become dry and musty
from excessive heat, as you proceed, water the affected
parts, pile all up neatly, and leave it protected in part as
before. In five or six days more, it will fiave to be turned
again, repeating it un.til the first extreme heat has been
over. In neglect of this, the heat, after making up the bed,
will be vehement for a week or two, frequently destroying
the vegetative purity of the soil, and proving destructive
to the seeds.

Allowing the manure to come to a lively heat, having

no unpleasant, rancid smell, proceed to mark off your in-

tejided bed, running it east and west as nearly as possible,

measure your frame, and allow the site of the bed eight

3

26 OF FRAMING. [March.

inches each way larger than the frame : at the corners,
place a stick or rod perpendicularly. The ground ought
to be higher than that around it, to prevent water from get-
ting into the bed, which, if low, must be filled up ; or, if
supposed that water may lodge there, a little brushwood
might be put under the manure, which would keep it from
being inundated. The manure must be built up square
and level, shaking, mixing and beating it regularly with
the back of the fork. When you have it to the desired
height, (from two to three feet will be sufficient for annu-
als,) leave the centre of the bed a little higher than the
sides, thus allowing it more to subside. When finished,
put on the frame and sash or sashes, keep them close until
the heat arises, covering them at night with mats or shut-
ters. As soon as you feel the heat increased, give air by
tilting the sashes a few inches to let off the steam and
stagnated air, observing to close in the afternoon, and cover
at night. If the heat is violent, about half an inch of air
might be left during the night. In about three days, if all
has been properly attended to, the bed will be what is
termed sweet. Then put in about six inches of fine gar-
den soil ; if heavy, mix a little sand with it. Spread it
level, and, when the soil is heated through, sow in small
drills from one-eighth to an inch deep, according to the
size of the seeds ; cover with very fine sifted soil. Some
very small kinds do best when sown upon the surface.
When sown, give gentle sprinklings of water until they
come up, when it will be necessary to give air freely
during the day to prevent them from being weak, or damp-
ing off, which many of them will do if they have not air
regularly admitted.

March.'] LIST OF CHOICE ANNUALS, &c. 27

LIST OF CHOICE FLOWERING ANNUALS
ADAPTED FOR SOWING ON A HOT-BED.

Argeratum Mexicanum, blue flowered Argeratum.
Asclepias curassavica, swallow wort, orange and red flow-

ered.
Aster Chinensis, China Aster, or Queen Margarets, in great

variety. The late imported German Asters are of

extraordinary beauty.
Anagallis Phillipsii, blue Pimpernel.
Balsamina hortensis, Balsam, commonly called Ladies

Slipper.

Browallia alata, upright blue and white Browallia.
Cacalia coccinea, scarlet Cacalia, or Venus' Paint Brush.

- sonchifolia, orange Cacalia.
Calandrinia discolor, rosy purple, very pretty.
Celosia cristata, Coxcomb, two varieties, red and yellow.
Centaurea Americana, American Sultan.

- suaveolens, yellow sweet Sultan.
Clarkia elegans, elegant rose-coloured Clarkia.

- pulchella, showy purple Clarkia.

- alba, white flowered Clarkia.
Cleome grandiflora, large lilac flowering spider plant.
Cjintoriia elegans, elegant blue Clintonia.
Collinsia bicofor, two-coloured Collinsia.

-- heterophylla, lilac and white.
Commelina ccelestis, blue flowering Commelina.
Dianthus Chinensis, China pink, many fine double varie-

ties.

Gomphrena globosa, red and white globe Amaranthus.
Hibiscus manihot, large yellow Hibiscus.

Africanus major, buff" with black centre.

er for arbours.

28 LIST OF CHOICE ANNUALS, &C. [MlTC/i.

T , , ... C Orange red, an interesting climbing
Loasa latent!*, | ^ blooming throughoutsthe seasoif.

Malope alba, white flowering Malope.

grandiflora, large red flowering Malope.

Mathiola annua, all the varieties of ten week stocks should
be industriously cultivated, and seed soAvn also in
April and May for autumn blooming.

("Climbing plants
Maurandia Barclayana, blue flowering, J for pillars, trel-

semperflorens, pink flowering | lisses or ar-

(_ bours.
Mesembryanthemum glaciale, Frozen plant.

crystallinum, Ice plant.

Mimosa pudica, Sensitive plant,
Mimulus Wheelerii, Monkey flower, yel-
low and crimson,

Smithii, Smith's yellow and red,
Variegatus, variegated pink and

white,

cardinalis, scarlet,
roseus, rose-coloured,

Will grow best
> in wet places.

Petunias of variety, a beautiful genus of plants of every
variety of colour, from deep purple to pure white,
blooming from June till frost ; the seeds are small
and require to be very lightly covered.
Portulaca splendens, splendid purple flowered Purslane.
-- Thellusonii, red flowered Purslane.
Salpiglossis picta, atropurpurea, &c., delight in a cool situ-

ation.

Schizanthus retusus, orange-coloured ~1 T -i • u -i

Schizanthus, Llke,a nch .*°l1:

pinnatus, calico Schizan- U and a cool and

naU shad-

thus, .

And a few other varieties, ed Sltuatlon-

Shortia Californica, yellow Shortia, very profuse flowering.
Tagetes, Mary-gold, the new varieties of the French are

very pretty — they like rich soil and plenty of mois-

ture.
Tropseolum aduncum, Canary bird flower, a climber and a

very scarce plant.

March.~\ HARDY ANNUALS.

Tropaeolum atrosanguineum, crimson Nastur-^)

tium. I Climbing

Thunbergia alata, buff with black centre. { plants.
i alba, white flowered,
aurantiaca, fine orange.

- I

Verbena candidissima, pure white.

Mestonii, bright scarlet.

Algerii, pale rose.

Blue Q,ueen, blue with pale

centre.

Wilsonii, very dark purple.
Julia, bright rose.

A lovely family
of pretty and

fuse flc

ower-

pro

ing plants gen-
erally of a pro-
cumbent habit.

Seeds may be obtained from the above, although they
cannot be relied upon to produce the same colours.
Vinca rosea, Madagascar Periwinkle, ~j Thrive best in a
- alba, white flowered Pe- I warm, dry, situa-
riwinkle, J tion, with rich soil.

Zinnia elegans, splendid Zinnia. ~\ TT

paudflora, yel-j

Though the above will bloom much earlier by being
sown on a hot-bed, yet where that convenience cannot be
obtained, they will all succeed treated as hardy annuals.

After sowing, if the weather be clear, the sun acting on
the glass, will produce a too rapid evaporation of the mois-
ture of the soil, and may otherwise affect seeds but thinly
covered, which must be guarded against by shading 'with
mats for a few hours during bright sunshine. In giving
water it ought always to be about milk warm, and passed
through a fine rose, to prevent the stems being broken or
bruised. Weeds must be drawn out as soon as they ap-
pear.

HARDY ANNUALS.

Many annual plants, though of short duration, are pos-
sessed of much beauty of hue and elegance of form: they
are farther valuable from their adaptation in filling up va-
3*

30 HARDY ANNUALS. [March.

cant spots through the flower garden or parterre. They
are, besides, of easy culture, many requiring nothing more
than to have the seeds sown in the spot where they are to
grow. The first sowing may take place about the end of
the month, when the ground is prepared and the weather
fine, but avoid it at all times when the ground will not pul-
verize properly. The neatest and most expeditious method
is to take a rod about one foot long and one inch in dia-
meter, rounding at the end, with which draw a circle from
four to nine inches in diameter, and from one-eighth of an
'inch to an inch deep, according to the size of the seeds.
Many very small seeds will grow best, if sown on the sur-
face of fine mould. When sown, cover with fine mould,
placing a small twig or tally, with the name in the centre
of the circle to prevent mistakes, either in sowing, planting
or hoeing. ' When they have grown from one to two in-
ches— the first moist day should be taken to remove such
as are too crowded, which can be generally transplanted
to some other situation, taking care to shade them a few
days, with flower pots, or some other substitute. A few
kinds do best with removing, such as Balsams, China
Asters, Mary-gold, 10 week stocks, Hibiscus, Zinnias, and
several others, of a free growing, and strong-wooded na-
ture. Annuals are such plants as grow from seed, flower
and perfect their productions, and then die within one year.
The following sorts are well deserving of culture :

Adonis miniata, Flos Adonis or Pheasant's eye, red.
Amaranthus caudatus, Love lies Bleeding, red and yellow

variety.
Amaranthus hypochondriacus, Prince's Feather, red.

tricolor, three-coloured Amaranthus should

be sown on rather poor soil — on rich soil it
has little beauty.

Brachycome iberidifolia, fine dark blue.
Brugmansia Waymeria, double flowered, large and showy.
Centaurea moschata, purple sweet Sultan.
• — cretica, white sweet Sultan.

• suaveolens, yellow sweet Sultan.
Collinsia grandiflora, blue Collins' flower.
Convolvulus, minor, dwarf blue Bindweed.

March.~] HARDY ANNUALS. 31

Calliopsis bicolor, formerly Coreopsis tinctoria or Fair
Eye ; a very gay plant, and flowers best when
sown in October.

Drummondii, yellow calliopsis.

Collomia coccinea, scarlet flowered.

Delphinium ajacis, Rocket Larkspur, many varieties, all
superb, and do best to be sown in rich ground in
October.

consolida, branching Larkspur, various co-
lours.

Euphorbia variegata, variegated Euphorbia.

Eschscholtzia crocea, Orange. (Now chryseis.}

Californica, yellow.

Erysimum PerowfFskyanum, bright orange.

Gilia tricolor, three-coloured Gilia,~J

capitata, blue-coloured, > Bloom all summer.

, Achillsefolia, large blue, J

Heliophila Araboides, blue sun love, very pretty.

Hieracium meutabilis, changeable Hawkweed.

Helianthus Californicus, superb double dwarf sunflower.

Iberis arnara, white Candytuft.

• umbellata, purple Candytuft.

violacea, violet Candytuft.

odorata, white sweet-scented Candytuft.

splendens, large purple, sweet-scented Candytuft. -

Ipomoea quamoclit, Cypress vine, the seed will grow freely,

if soaked two or three hours in hot water.

Lathyrus odoratus, sweet Pea of many varieties.

Leptosiphon densiflorus, dense-flowered Leptosiphon.

Loasa lateritia, orange-coloured Loasa, a climbing plant.

Lupinus, many varieties ; they require to be partially
shaded from hot suns.

Malope grandiflora, scarlet Malope.

• alba, white.

Mirabilis jalapa, marvel of Peru, many varieties. If the
roots of this plant are lifted in October, and placed
in a dry cellar, free from frost, and planted out next
April, they will bloom much finer.

Nemophila insignis, or blue Grove Love, a pretty dwari
plant, requiring rich soil and a half shaded situa-
tion.

atomaria, white with black spots.

32 BOX EDGINGS. [March.

(Enothera or tree Primrose ; many varieties of the annual
species produce their flowers in much greater
perfection, if planted or f sown in poor soil. To
this ansiloba, sinuata, and tetraptera, are excep-
tions, as they flower the finest in a rich light
loam.

Papaver Marseillii, double white poppy edged with red.

gigantea, large Dutch poppy.

Phlox Drummondii, many colours, a superb article, and
blooms from May till October. In dry situations it
is apt to die off" unless partially shaded.

Reseda odorata, Mignonette ; to have it in perfection the
whole season, there should be a sowing in May and
July. It delights in a rich loamy soil.

Tournefortia heliotropoides, summer Heliotrope.

Viola tricolor, Pansy or Heart's-ease, require very rich soil,
and should be shaded from hot sun ; if sown early
in the season, they will flower profusely in the
autumn.

For other varieties of Annuals, see list adapted for hot-
bed sowing. We have omitted many not agreeing with
our climate, or those very common for such, we refer our
readers to the lists published annually, by respectable
seedsmen.

BOX EDGINGS

May be planted any time this month, or beginning of
next, which in most seasons will be preferable. We will
give a few simple directions how to accomplish the work.
In the first place, dig over the ground deeply where the
edging is intended to be planted, breaking the soil fine, and
keeping it to a proper height, namely about one inch higher
than the side of the walk ; but the taste of the operator
will best decide, according to the situation. Rake the sur-
face even, and tread it down with the feet, or beat it with
the spade. Where it gives most, continue to add, keep-
ing the surface at the desired height. If the edging is to
be in a direct line, either on a level or inclined plane, you
may be correctly and simply regulated by making the de-

MarchJ] GRASS AND OTHER EDGINGS. 33

sired level at each end of the line. Take three rods about
four feet long each, having a piece of one foot to cross at
one end, two of these pieces painted black, the other white.
Have a black one at each end of the line on the level, take
the white one for the centre, going along the line, and
about every twenty feet, level a spot to? the exact height,
which will be seen by looking over the top of the rods
from one end. Having found the level, drive in a peg to
it, so that no mistake may occur ; beat and level between
them, leaving a smooth surface. This being done, strain
the line, and with the spade proceed to cut out the trench
perpendicularly on the side next the walk, six, eight, ten,
or twelve inches deep, according to the length of the plants.
Afterwards take the plants, and cut the tops even, with the
knife or shears, at the same time shortening the roots.
Then with the left hand next the line, plant forward, keep-
ing the tops of the plants level, and from one to two inches
above ground, keeping the plants close according to the
required thickness. Put in the earth as you proceed, and
tread it firm, then rake the surface even, and with the
spade beat it smooth. If the weather sets in very dry, the
box will be the better of a few waterings. Sometimes box-
wood is planted without roots, but it seldom gives satisfac-
tion ; not growing equally.

GRASS AND OTHER EDGINGS.

Grass verges for walks and borders, although frequently
used, are by no means desirable, except where variety is
required ; they are the most laborious to keep in order, and
at best are inelegant, and the only object in their favour is,
their being everywhere accessible. Iris humilis, Viola
tricolor, thyme, Sea Pink, (Stattice Armeria,) Mignonette,
Phlox subulata, and Phlox procumbens, all make tolerable
edgings. In the southern states, Verbena Tweediana— V.
alba, V. intermedia and other varieties, will make the most
lovely edging for walks and borders that can be imagined,
and will bloom profusely from May till November.

34 HARDY BIENNIALS. \_Mdrch.

HARDY BIENNIALS.

Biennial plants are such as are of two years' duration.
Being sown this year they flower, seed, or fruit next year,
and soon after decay : the seeds should be sown about the
end of this month or beginning of next, either in the spot
where they are to remain or a compartment by themselves,
regularly marked, and to be transplanted in May or Sep-
tember. When they appear above ground thin them out
distinctly, that, when they are to be removed, a little earth
may adhere to them: and, if sown where they are to
stand, leave only three or four plants in each patch. The
following list are a few of the free-blooming and more ele-
gant sorts :

Agrostemma coronaria, Rose Campion, blooms all summer.
Althea rosea, Hollyhock, and all its varieties, very showy

in July and August. When any very desirable

variety is procured, it can be multiplied by dividing

the root.
Antirrhinum majus, Snap-dragon, and its varieties, require

to be protected during winter with a few leaves or

litter.
Cantua coronopifolia, flowers in August and September,

beautiful scarlet, delights in dry gravelly soil.
Ipomopsis elegans.
Campanula media, dark blue Canterbury"!

bell,
Campanula media, semi-pleno, half dou- [Bloom in June

ble Canterbury bell, j and July.

Campanula media, alba, white Canterbury

bell, J

Campanula thyrsoides.
Cheiranthus cheiri, Wall-flower, should be protected by

leaves or boards during winter.
Digitalis purpurea, purple Fox glove.
— • alba, white Fox glove.

Dianthus barbatus, Sweet William pink.

— coccineus crimson pink.

fl. pi. double-flowered ; the double sorts

can be propagated by laying, same as
carnations.

March.'] PERENNIALS. 35

Gerardia purpurea, purple Gerardia, ~| Natives

flava, yellow Gerardia, I of this

quercifolia, spotted flowered Gerardia, J country.

Hedysarum coronarium, red flowered French Honey-
suckle.

Humea elegans, scarlet Humea, flowers in June and Sep-
tember.

Lunaria biennis, Honesty, various colours, not beautiful, but
curious in seed.

(Enothera corymbosa, dwarf Evening Primrose.

Papaver nudicaule, naked-stemmed yellow Poppy.

Scabiosa atropurpurea, musk-scented Scabious.

Silene multiflora, many-flowered Catch-fly.

There might be many other beautiful biennial plants
enumerated, which are justly considered worthy of atten-
tion ; but most of them do not withstand the severity of
our winters, although very much prized in England.

PERENNIALS.

In every flower garden there ought to be a good selec-
tion of these plants. They are lasting ornaments ; and,
when judiciously selected, will give yearly gratification.
In making a choice, a view should be to have those that
flower abundantly, are of free growth, beauty and continu-
ation of bloom. It would go beyond our limits to give an
extensive description of any, but a few remarks on some
of the finest, with their names, are indispensable.

Adonis verndlis, is a fine border flower, and will grow
in any common soil ; flowers large, yellow rayed, having
in the rays about twelve petals ; leaves much divided,
blooms in April and May.

Anemone, Wind-flower. Several fine species, with
flowers from one to three inches in diameter, very cele-
brated in Europe, though succeeding poorly with us except
in cool latitudes. A. alpina, large white. A. palmata
Jlore-pleno, yellow ; A. stellata versicolor, various colour-
ed ; A. pavonlna flore-pleno, scarlet ; Jl. narcissi-flora,
white. Any of these are very desirable.

Antirrhinums, Snap-dragon. All the varieties of A.

30 PERENNIALS. \\March.

majus are esteemed in the flower borders ; the pure white,
bright red, rich crimson, and variegated, are very showy.
A few of the species, A. mnlle and A. siculum, where
there is variety required, deserve a situation. The flowers
are all large, and similar to the snout of an animal.

Anthericum Klidstrum, St. Burnos Lily, is an excellent
liliacous plant, with orange-yellow flowers, blooming in
June, July and August, and will grow in any common gar-
den soil.

Asclepias. The finest of this genus are native plants,
and are highly esteemed in Europe, but frequently rejected
with us, because " they are wild plants." A. tuberosa has
beautiful orange flowers, and delights in dry situations. A.
ritbra, A, nivea, A. purpurdscens ; and A. incarnata, are
the finest of the family. It is best to plant A. tubtrbsa in
October.

Acoriitums, Wolfs'-bane, one hundred and twenty-eight
distinct species, with several varieties. Many of them are
of consequence and beauty ; the flower-stems rise from
one and a half to six feet upright, and strong, furnished
with many palmate and digitate leaves, terminated by
spikes of blue, yellow, or white flowers, similar to a 'hood ;
hence the name of Monk's Hood is often applied to them.
They are scarce in collections ; but, in a few years, we
have no doubt but many of them will be plentiful. The
finest species are A. speciosum, A. Sieboldii, large dark
blue, A. pyrenaiacum, branching blue, A. napellus, A.
venustum, A. pyramidale, A, lycoctonum, A. versicolor,
or variegatum, and A. grandiflorum. They flower from
May to September, and will grow in any common garden
soil. The roots of A. napellus are like small turneps, and
are poisonous. They like a little shade and rich soil.

Cdltha palustris JJore-pleno is a good border plant, de-
lights in moist situations, has large cordate, crenated leaves;
flowers double yellow, blooming from April to June ; and
is a desirable plant.

BeUis perennis hortensis, Daisy. We might almost say
with another, " Every one knows the Daisy." It is named
from being pretty, and is perfectly hardy, though generally
kept under cover. They delight to have a shaded situa-
tion during summer, to protect them from the sun, which,
-as it were, scorches the roots. There are many double

March.'] PERENNIALS. 87

varieties in the gardens, which flower early. The one
called Crown, or Carnation Daisy, is twice the size of the
common varieties, and has white and red petals alternately
and very double. Loamy soil, inclined to moisture, is best
adapted to their growth.

Campanula. This genus affords many very ornamental
plants for the Flower garden and Shrubbery, and they
flower superbly during the summer, agreeing better with
our climate than with that of Europe. Many have two
successions of flowers, C. persidfolia alba plena ; C. per-
sicifolia coeritlea plena ; C. urticifolia, white. Of this last
there is also a double variety. C. speciosa ; C. glomerata ;
C. versicolor, with several others, are worthy of a situation
in every garden. Their roots are strong, fleshy and
fibrous. They are easy of culture, and will retain their
situation in the severest of our winters. C. grandiflbra is
now I'Fahlenbergia grandiflbra. It has superb large blue
flowers, stems are slender, and should be supported as soon
as they grow.

Cheirdnthus Cheiri vulgaris is the common garden
Wall-flower. There are about ten varieties of it, all ad-
mired for their various colours and agreeable odour. The
common variety survives the mildest of our winters. The
most esteemed variety is hoemdnthus, Double bloody.
They should all be protected by a frame. C. mutdbilis is
a beautiful species ; it has many shades of colour from lilac
to dark purple. The flowers are on extending racemose
spikes ; blooming from April to June ; it requires a light
rich soil ; is a half shrubby evergreen plant.

Chelone. This genus belongs entirely to this conti-
nent, and possesses many fine species. It is a matter of
astonishment that they are not more cultivated and sought
for in our collections. C. gldbra; C. obliqua; C. barbata;
C. atropurpitrea ; C. pulchella ; and C. speciosa f are all
handsome, and flower from May to September; corolk
large, ringent, ventricose ; flowers in spikes or panicles.

Chrysanthemums. There are few of this genus of any
consequence as herbaceous plants, except the varieties of
C. sinense, of which there are about ninety, all desirable ;
but in small gardens, where there is a deficiency in room,
the following are select in colour and quality: Admiration,
yellow ; Celestial, pale blush ; Coronet, white : Defiance,

38 PERENNIALS. [March.

lemon yellow ; Etna, dark-brown ; Hero, rosy crimson ;
King, pale rose ; Perfection, lilac ; Queen, blush ; Tri-
umphant, buff and white ; Venus, rose ; Win. Penn, large
creamy white ; Marshal Messena, yellow and red ; Indica
rubra, very dwarf early red ; IVheelerii, large purple ;
sanguinea, a beautiful crimson. To grow these in perfec-
tion, they require rich light soil ; and about the end of this
month the roots should be lifted, divided and planted into
fresh soil, either by giving them a new situation, or chang-
ing the earth they were in. Two or three stems together
are quite sufficient. The flowers, by the above treatment,
will be much larger, more double, and finer in colour :
where they are wanted to grow low and bushy, top them
in June, but not later than the first of July. Where the
soil is rich, and the plant having only one stem, by topping
it, makes a beautiful bush. They are in flower from the
first of October until severe frost ; thus beautifying our
gardens at a season when they would be destitute of one
single attraction. If the season be dry, to water them with
liquid manure will add to their vigour. They are all na-
tives of China, and greatly esteemed by the Chinese, who
only allow a few blooms to come out on the top of each
stem, thereby having the flowers much finer.

Within these three years, hundreds of varieties of this
winter flower have been produced from seed in Europe ;
many of them very superb, and having more luxuriant
foliage and greater diversity of colour.

Clematis, Virgin's-bower. A few species are good her-
baceous plants, of upright growth, and blue flowers, C.
integrifolia ; C. ungustifolia ; and C. erecta; they grow
best in light soil.

Coreopsis, chiefly native plants, and free-flowering ; co-
lour principally yellow; flowers rayed. C. tenuifolia, C.
verticillata, C. discolor, and C. tripteris, are the finest of
the genus, and will grow in any common garden soil.

Delphiniums. There are some showy border flowers of
these, of strong growth. The leaves are much divided ;
the flowers in terminal spikes ; colour blue, purple, pink,
white and yellow, with various shades. D. grandiflorum,
and its varieties, are the best of the genus. D. interme-
dium, and its varieties, D. datum, Bee Larkspur, from
the ringent part of the flower being very like a bee, and

March.'] PERENNIALS. 39

D. montdnum, are good varieties, and easily cultivated.
When the plants become large, they ought to be divided,
and planted in fresh soil. They are in bloom from May
to September.

Dianthus. Some of the species of this genus are the
most prominent of the flower garden, riot only for their
beauty, but also their fragrance, which is peculiarly grate-
ful, especially in the well-known and celebrated Pink and
Carnation, with the Sweet William, which was esteemed
in the days of old " for its beauty to deck up the bosoms
of the beautiful, and garlands and crowns for pleasure."
The finest species are D. barbdtus and D. barbdtus pleno,
Sweet William; D, discolor; D. chinensis; D. alpinus ;
D. superbus; D. caryophylhis, from which have originated
the Picotee and the Carnation; D. plumdrius, from which
originated the Double Pink. Several of these, although
they will stand the severest cold, have to be protected in
frames during winter, to have them in the perfection of
beauty. For the character of a Pink and Carnation, see
May.

Dictdmnus. Two species of this genus, D. fraxinella
and D. dlbus, have been cultivated and esteemed upwards
of two hundred and forty years. A plant of the first of
these species, when gently rubbed, emits an odour like that
of lemon-peel ; and when bruised emits a balsamic scent,
which is strongest in the pedicles of the flowers. They
have glands of a rusty colour, that exude a viscid juice, or
resin, which exhales in vapour, and in a dark place may
be seen to take fire. Its flowers are red, those of the other
white, in loose terminal spikes ; the flower has five petals,
clawed and unequal, with glandular dots ; in bloom from
May to July; delights in sandy loam.

Dodecdtheon. This is a native genus* and commonly
called American cowslip. The generic term, a name of
the Romans, signifying twelve gods or divinities, is applied
with great absurdity to a plant, a native of a world the
Romans never saw nor had any idea of; neither resem-
bling in any particular, the poetical fancy of their writers.
The most admired species is D. media; the flowers are in
umbels, on a pedicle, from six to twelve inches high; the
corolla is rotata reflexa, colour light purple, bottom of petals
lake and yellow; blooming in May. The white variety is

40 PERENNIALS.

very much esteemed, and surpasses the preceding. The
ground is pure white, the bottom of the petals the same
as the other. There is also a spotted variety found on the
banks of the Missouri. They delight in brown loam, a
half shady situation, inclining to moisture. The foliage
soon decays after flowering.

Digitalis, Fox-glove, about forty species of annuals and
herbaceous plants. A few are cultivated in the flower bor-
ders, and are very showy. These are D. leucophcea, D.
ferruginea, D. ochroleuca, large yellow ; and D. purpu-
rdscens ; and are good species. Jb.purpurea and D. alba
are very conspicuous biennials ; the flowers are solitary,
and in long spikes ; the corolla of D. piirpnrea is campa-
nulate, ventricose and ringent ; the interior is spotted, and
is considered the finest of the genus. Delights in poor
soil, with a little shade.

Draco cephalum, Dragon's Head, about twenty species,
mostly ornamental. D. virginicum is a profuse blooming
plant, with bluish pink flowers, and grows about four feet
high. D. argunense is a superb dwarf, with large dark
blue flowers.

Eupatoriums . These generally are native plants, not
worthy of notice here, except for two species. E. cceles-
tinum has syngenesious flowers in flattened panicles, co-
lour fine light blue, blooming from September to November,
desirable for its beauty at that season. E. aromaticum
may be cultivated for its spicy odour ; flowers white, in
loose terminal panicles ; blooming from August to October.
Either of them will grow in common soil.

FunMa, Japan Day Lily, three species, all beautiful. F.
cceritlea, with blue flowers. F.japonica, pure white, and
F. variegata, with striped leaves and flowers. F. lauri-
Jblia, early blue. This genus has been separated from
Hemerocallis.

Gentidnas, a genus of very showy plants, and flower in
great abundance. The flowers are tubular and inflated ;
colour generally blue. A few species are yellow, and some
white ; flowers in whorls, terminal or solitary. They grow
best in a light rich soil. G. liitea, G. purpiirea, G. se.p-
temfida. G. acaulis is a pretty dwarf growing species,
the flower dark and light blue ; interior of the corolla spotr
ted ; has a succession of flowers from April to June. These

March.~] PERENNIALS. 41

are fine exotics, but may give place to our native species,
such as G. Catesbcei ; G. ochroleuca; G. incarndta; with
several others, and G. crindta, which is a biennial, and
finely fringed ; colour light blue.

Geum. There are only four species that are worth cul-
tivation, namely, G. quellyon, once G. cocdneurn ; G.
splendens, G. JVicea, and G. hybridum. G. urbanum
is sometimes cultivated for its roots, which, when chewed,
sweeten the breath. They are all of easy culture. G.
quellyon and splendens flower from May to October, and
are very desirable plants for the borders, and much esteem-
ed in Europe.

HemerocalliSiDay Lily ; three species, H.fiilva, H. gra-
minea, and H. Sieboldii, flower well, and are remarkable
among the border flowers for their large yellow or copper-
coloured corollas, some of them about six inches in dia-
meter ; bloom from May to July, and will grow in almost
any soil. There is a plant known in our gardens as H.
cceriilea, which is Funkia coerulea, and has a campanulate
corolla, with a cylindrical tube ; flowers in spikes; leaves-
ovate, acuminate.

Hibiscus. There are several herbaceous species very-
showy and handsome, H. palustris ; H. roseus ; H. mill'
taris ; H. spedosus ; H. grandiflorus ; and H. pungens.
They grow best in moist situations, and where these are
not to be had, give them plenty of water, and plant in sandy
soil enriched with decayed leaves. The flowers are about
six inches in diameter, flowering up the stem, either soli-
tary or in small bunches. H. spedosus is the most splen-
did, and deserves a situation in every garden. The roots
in winter ought to be covered by litter, tan, or saw-dust ;
but a better method is to lift them, and put them in the cel-
lar, covered with dry earth, and kept from the frost. All
the above-mentioned species are improved by being pro-
tected during winter.

Iris, Flower-de-lis, has many fine species of various
shades and colours, /. siibiflora, /. nepalensis, I. Palldsii,
I. pdllida, 7. cristata, /. arenaria, I. furcata, I. germd-
nica, I.floreniina, 1. verna, and /. susidna. The last is
the finest of the herbaceous species ; the flowers are very
large and curiously spotted with brown ; it stands the
severest of our winters unprotected. The roots of /. flo-
4*

42 PERENNIALS. \_Mctrcll.

rentina is the orris root of the druggists. They are all
of easy culture in any loamy soil inclining to moisture.
The bulbous species will be treated of in September or
October, Corolla six-petalled, three erect and three re-
clined alternately ; proceeding from spathes or sheaths with
flowers in succession.

Liatris is a genus of native plants, containing several
fine species, L. squarrosa, large purple heads of beautiful
flowers ; L. elegans ; L. paniciddta. L. macrostachya,
now L. spicata, is a fine large growing species. They
have syngenesious purple flowers in long close spikes, dif-
fering from other spiked flowering genera by blooming
first at the extremity. They grow best in strong heavy
soil.

Lychnis. Three species are very desirable in the
flower borders. L. chalcedonica has bright scarlet crowned
flowers ; the double scarlet variety is splendid ; there is
also a double white variety ; L.fulgens and L.flos-jovis.
They ought to be frequently lifted, and planted afresh, or
they will dwindle to nothing. The best time is when they
begin to grow. There is a plant known in our collections
as Lychnis JJos-cuciili, ragged Robbin or French Pink,
which is now Jlgrostemma flos-cuciili; it is a fine and
showy border plant with double red flowers, a double white
variety of it has been recently introduced of the same cha-
racter, with the additional quality of blooming the whole
season. They delight in a light rich soil.

Lythrums, A few species flower well, and have small
pink blossoms in great profusion, L. aldtum, L. virgdtum,
L. diffusum, and L. lanceolatum. They will grow in any
common garden soil if not too much shaded ; and flower
from June to September.

Mimiilus, Monkey-flower. A few species may be cul-
tivated. They will grow in any soil or situation. M. lii-
teus and M. rivularis are the best. M. moschdtus has a
very strong musk scent, to many agreeable. The former
two have large gaping flowers, of a golden yellow, and beau-
tifully spotted with purple in the interior : they all grow
in moist situations.

Mondrdas, a fine native genus and showy. The foliage
of several of the species is aromatic, and resembles mint.
M. didyma has long scarlet ringlet flowers, in headed

March.'] PERENNIALS. 43

whorls ; M. kalmiana, flowers very long, and a beautiful
crimson, with fragrant leaves. M. Russdliana has red
and white flowers ; curious and handsome. M. punctata
has yellow and red flowers ; they grow in any common
soil.

Mathiola is the generic of the Stock-gilly. None of
them will survive severe winters in this latitude ; yet many
of them are indispensable in the flower garden. M. sim-
plicdulis, Brompton-stock and its varieties ; with M. incana,
Queen-stock, and its varieties, require the protection of a
good frame in winter, and about the end of this month, or
beginning of next, plant them in good light rich soil to
flower, which they will do all summer, if attended to with
frequent supplies of water. M. dnnua has about forty
varieties, valuable for flowering the first year from seed,
and are all annuals. They ought to be sown on a gentle
hot-bed about the first of this month, and carefully pricked
out so as they may be ready to transplant about the end of
April or the first of May. Plant them in light rich soil,
and they will flower profusely through the season ; if it is
very dry, they must be watered to keep them growing.
The scarlet, white and purple varieties are the finest ; but
there are many intermediate sorts, all handsome. M. glabra
is the Wall-flower leaved stock, and requires the same
treatment as the former two. There are about twenty vari-
eties of this, all various in colour. In planting any of
these into the open ground, choose cloudy weather, except
they have been in pots ; in such case, plant at any time in
beds, or detached groups, through the borders, keeping
each kind separate.

CEnotheras. The most of them are indigenous, and in
Europe they afford a continual ornament to the flower gar-
den from April to November, but in our gardens they are
entirely neglected. By rejecting these and many others,
our flower gardens are deprived both of much beauty and
interest they might easily possess. The herbaceous sorts
delight in light rich soil. (E. odorata, sweet-scented ; CE.
macrocdrpa ; CE. media; (E. latiflora ; CE. Frazeri ;
CE. spedosa; CE. missouriensis,ar\d CE.po.lUda; are all
fine native herbaceous plants, mostly with large yellow
four-petalled corollas ; in bloom from May to September.

Phlox, another American genus, and one of the most

44 PERENNIALS. [March.

handsome in cultivation. It consists of elegant border
flowers, valuable for flowering early, and during the whole
season, even till frost. While the majority of plants bloom-
ing late in the season are generally syngenesious, with yel-
low flowers, these delight us with their lively colours of
purple, red, white and striped. A collection of them pro-
perly attended to, would of themselves constitute a beau-
tiful flower garden. It will be difficult to state which are
the finest, but the following are select varieties : P. bicolor,
multiflora, Breckii, Carterii, Tournella, Van Houttii, Spe-
ciosa, Jllcardii, longiflora, Ixta, a superb white ; omniflora,
beautiful dwarf white; P. odorata; P. corymbosa; P.
suaveolens ; P. reflexa ; P. stolonifera ; P. divaricata ;
P. nivalls ; and P. subuldta. In the spring of 1831, an
eminent British collector* exclaimed, on seeing a patch of
P. subulata in one of the pine barrens of New Jersey,
" The beauty of that alone is worth coming to America to
see, it is so splendid." Most of the species delight in a
rich light sandy loam. When the plants become large,
they ought to be divided, and planted in fresh ground.

Primulas, Primrose. To this genus belong the cele-
brated Cowslip, Oxslip, Primrose, and the esteemed jJuri-
cula. The double varieties of Primrose have originated
from P. vulgaris. These are such as carry their flowers
on separate pedicles, rising from the root on a small stem.
The double varieties are desirable for their beauty, but re-
quire the protection of a frame during winter. They are
in colour red, white, yellow, lilac, purple, and crimson. P.
elatior is the Oxslip, from which all the Polyanthuses have
been grown. They are in variety innumerable, and are
those whose flowers are in umbels, on a scape or flower-
stalk, rising from three to nine inches. The rules for judg-
ing of their merits are wholly artificial, agreed on from
time to time by florists. The one that is the leading beauty
this year, would, in few years, be far in the rear. The
principal character is, that the corolla is not notched or
fringed ; the colours pure and distinct, not running into
one another; the tube small; the eye round, and a little
prominent. Being surrounded with white, and the ground
purple, is a fine character. P. auricula. From this the

* Mr. Drummond.

March.'] PERENNIALS. 45

highly esteemed varieties have originated. The cultivated
auricula has many admirers, both for its exquisite beauty
and fragrance. For the criterion of a fine flower, see
•Bpril. There are several other species worthy of a situa-
tion, such as P. cortusoides, P. dentiflbra, P. suaveolens,
P. decora, with P. scotica and P.farinosa, both small neat
species. A shady situation agrees best with them; and
they require loamy soil, free from any kind of manure, ex-
cept it be fully decomposed. The leaves of P. veris have
been recommended for feeding silk worms.

Potentillas are similar to the strawberry in habit and
appearance. P. nepalensis orformosa, has rose-coloured
flowers ; P. atropurpurea ; P. Musselliana, scarlet; P. Hop-
woodiana, buff and scarlet ; and P. splendens, yellow, with
superb leaves. These are the finest of the genus, and flower
from May to September. It will be well to protect them
with a few leaves or litter during the severity of winter ;
they delight in light soil.

Saponaria offitinalis, and S. o. plena, are fine free flow-
ering dwarf plants; the colour is pink in both double and
single varieties. The roots run under ground, and care
should be taken to keep them within bounds : they flower
from June to October. S. ccespitosa is a neat growing spe-
cies, of a rose colour. They will grow in any soil.

Silene. Several of this genus are popular annuals, but
the herbaceous species are very indifferent. S. viscosa
and S. viscosa fibre plena are frequently cultivated for their
beauty ; they will grow well if not too much shaded.

Saxifraga, above one hundred species. Many of them
are beautiful plants for rock-work. They are regardless
of cold, but will not generally withstand much moisture. A
few of them are highly deserving a situation in any gar-
den. S. hirsutum and S. crassifolia are used in some
countries for tanning. S. granulata multiplex has fine
double white flowers, and is desirable. S. umbrosa, Lon-
don-pride, makes a beautiful edging for a flower border;
the flowers are small, but on close examination its colours
are unrivalled. It is sometimes called " none so pretty."
S. sarmentosa is kept in the green-house, but is perfectly
hardy, and makes a fine plant in a shaded situation, and
will grow where grass and other plants generally die. We
have no doubt but it would make a good fancy edging. S.

46 PERENNIALS. [March.

pulchella and & pyramidalis require protection ; these are
easily cultivated, and flower in spikes from May to July.

Spiraeas. A few species are showy plants, and continue
flowering from May to September. S. ulmaria multiplex,
Meadow-sweet, has sweet-scented white flowers, in long
dense spikes. S. JUipendula multiplex, Drop-wort, double
white. S. lobdta is a native, and has fine rose-coloured
flowers, and blooms in June and July ; S. japonica, beau-
tiful dwarf white ; these are the finest of the herbaceous
species, and will grow in any common garden soil.

Stdtice, Thrift. A genus containing many fine herba-
ceous plants ; only a few of them are common in collec-
tions. The finest of them are scarce, and said to be "bad
to cultivate." S. vulgaris, once Armiria vulgaris, is a
valuable plant for an edging, and does well in our climate,
flowering in great profusion from May to July. When
done flowering, the stems should be cut off. The foliage
is an agreeable evergreen ; the plant increases rapidly, and
in a few years may be planted to a great extent. S. spe-
ciosa has red flowers, crowded in spreading panicles. S.
tartarica has also very showy flowers, and is now given to
the genus Taxanthema. S. latifolia and S. maritima
are the finest. T. latifolia and T. conspicua deserve at-
tention. They should be lifted every alternate year, and
sunk deeper into the soil, because they incline to grow out,
and are sometimes during summer killed by the drought.
Hence they are said to be " bad to cultivate."

Trollius europaeus and T. osiaticus are fine border
plants, with large yellow semi-double flowers ; the petals
are much cupped, which causes the flowers to have a glo-
bular appearance. They are easily grown in any loamy
soil, and flower from May to July. Few flowers have the
curious globular character which these have.

Veronica, Speed-well. This genus consists of about
one hundred and twenty species of herbaceous plants, be-
sides several varieties. The flowers are in long close
spikes, white, flesh-coloured, or blue ; they are generally
of the latter colour. Above sixty species are equally fine,
and being generally of the same character, the catalogue
at the end of this work will contain the best selection that
we can make. Very few of them are in the collections of
the country, although they are very showy, and flower

March."] PERENNIALS. 47

from May to August. They will grow in any soil, but
will not flourish where they are much shaded. V. offi-
cindlis has been used in Germany and Sweden as a sub-
stitute for tea. Some prefer V. chamsedrys for the same
purpose.

Valerianas. Several species are showy border plants,
with small flowers in large close flattened panicles. V.
dioica is remarkable for having the stamens and pistils in
separate flowers, situated on different plants ; the flowers
are of a blush colour. V. phit, a large growing species
with white flowers, and V. rubra, with its varieties which
bloom all the season, are the finest of the genus. They
are now given to Centranthus. They are all of easy cul-
ture in common garden earth, but preferring moist shady
situations. In flower from May to September.

Viola, a genus consisting of upwards of eighty species,
of low pretty plants, of great diversity of colour and foliage.
Many of them are natives, and well worth a situation in our
gardens. They mostly delight in sandy loam, and a little
shade. A few of the species grown in moist situations.
The most esteemed varieties for fragrance are, V. odorata
purpurea plena, double purple, V. odorata alba plena,
double white, and the double Neapolitan. They flower
very early, and make good edgings where they are kept in
order ; flowering profusely from April to June, and again
in autumn.

Yucca, Adam's needle. This is a very showy and orna-
mental genus; their character forming a picturesque con-
trast in the flower garden; foliage long, narrow, lanceo-
late and stiff; with white campanulate flowers, about two
inches in diameter, in conical spikes from two to four feet
long, arising from the centre of the plant, containing fre-
quently from two to four hundred florets. They are prin-
cipally native plants. Y. stricta; Y. supdrba; Y. aloi-
folia ; Y. angustifolia, Y, gloriosa, Y. recurvifolia, and
Y. filamentosa, are all fine species, and will grow in any
common soil. When in flower, if protected from the sun
by an awning, they will be of considerable duration.
There are variegated varieties of stricta and aloifolia, which
look very handsome in foliage, but are at present very rare,
and it will be a number of years before they are plentiful.

48 BULBOUS ROOTS. [March.

There ought, at least, to be one specimen of each in every
garden.

Having given the names and characters of a few herba-
ceous plants, all or most of them easily obtained, many of
them extremely handsome, and such as agree best with
transplanting at this season of the year; for several others,
such as Pssonias, or any other strong tuberous or bulbous
sorts, see October. Where they are in pots, they can be
planted at any time, the weather permitting, provided the
ball of earth is not broken. But where they are only to
be removed, the best time is in October or November, or
just as vegetation commences in the spring. That herba-
ceous plants may look to the best advantage, and flower
well, they must not be allowed to get into large stools ; but
as soon as they are above one foot in diameter, they should
be divided.

Very frequently those who perform this operation, take
the spade, and cut a piece ofF all round, which, to a degree,
improves the look of the plant; but this is only half justice.
It should be lifted entirely, fresh soil given, or removed a
few feet, and planted a little deeper than it was before, as
the plant tends apparently to grow out of the soil when
allowed to stand long. If the weather becomes dry shortly
after transplanting, give them a few waterings, until they
have taken fresh roots, which will be within two weeks.
Colour should be diversified through the garden as much
as practicable, and the highest growing sorts planted far-
thest from the walk, so as all may appear in view. At all
times avoid crowding plants together.

BULBOUS ROOTS.

About the middle of this month, let the covering of tan,
saw-dust, or decayed leaves, be cleared from the beds of such
as were directed to be covered in November ; afterwards
carefully stirring the surface among them with a kind of
wooden spatula, or wedge, breaking the surface fine ; then
dress all the alleys smooth and neat with the hoe and rake,
clearing away every particle of litter. When the leaves
of Tulips are expanding^ they frequently become entan-
gled so much, that the force of growth breaks the foliage :

March.'] BULBOUS ROOTS. 49

if there are any appearances of this at any time, they
should be set right with the hand. In early seasons these
roots will be far advanced, and perhaps one night of frost,
unexpectedly, might materially injure them. When there
is any suspicion of cold weather, hoops should be spanned
across the beds, so that the necessary mats or canvas could
in a few minutes be placed over them, to ward off danger.
Protect the finest sorts from heavy drenching rains, and
give them small neat rods for support, as they grow up. If
the rods and tyings are painted green, the effect will be
improved. These directions equally apply to Narcissus,
Jonquils, Iris and all Holland Bulbs.

CARNATIONS, PINKS, PRIMROSES, &c.,

Which have been protected by frames through the win-
ter, must have at all favourable opportunities plenty of air
admitted to them by lifting the sashes, and in fine mild days
and nights, the sashes may be taken entirely off. Divest
them of all decayed leaves, and stir up the earth on the sur-
face of the pots; those that are intended to be planted in
the garden may be set to one side, while those that are to
be kept in pots must be more strictly attended to. Of
these the Pinks and Carnations should be repotted about
the first of the month. Those that have been kept in four
inch pots, should be put into pots of seven inches, and
those that are in five inch pots maybe put into eight inch.
Give a gentle watering after repotting. Pinks do not
require the pots so large, but the same treatment in every
other respect. Where the extremities of the leaves are
decayed, cut them off, with any other decayed leaves :
the pots must be well drained with shivers or fine gravel.
Give them plenty of air, otherwise they will be weak in
growth.

Primroses and Daisies may be planted out in shady
situations; the sun destroys them during summer if ex-
posed.

50 AURICULAS RANUNCULUS AND ANEMONE. \_MttTCh.

AURICULAS.

These beautiful and highly interesting plants are, to a
great degree, neglected in our collections. . It cannot be
from want of beauty or fragrance that they have not at-
tracted our attention, for they are exquisite in both. We
are rather inclined to think that those who have them do
not give them the treatment they require yearly to perfect
their bloom. They should now have the surface earth
taken off about half an inch down, and fresh soil added,
which will cause them to put on fresh fibres about the upper
part of the roots, and greatly increase their growth. The
frame in which they are placed should now face the east,
as the sun will be too strong for them; and about the end
of the month turn it to the north. The glass of the frame
may be white-washed, which will partially shade them
from the sun, that being their delight. Give them water
sparingly until they begin to grow, and never water them
over the foliage previous to flowering, as water injures that
fine mealy-like substance found on many of the sorts, and
which so greatly improves their beauty. Defend them,
therefore, from rain and high winds. To have them flower
strongly, only one flower stem should be allowed to grow.
The first one that shows is generally the best. At all
events leave the strongest, and cut off all the others, or
only nip off the flower pips, which answers the same end.
Never keep the sash off during night, in case it rain before
morning.

RANUNCULUS AND ANEMONE.

The frames of Ranunculus and Anemone must have
plenty of air, and give frequent sprinklings of water. The
sashes or shutters should be taken entirely off every mild
day, and in fine nights leave them exposed to the dew.
Stir the earth among them, breaking it fine and making all
neat and clean. They require liberal supplies of water
after they begin to grow.

March.'} ROSES. 51

ROSES.

This is the most favourable month for planting all kinds
of garden roses, which must be done as soon as the wea-
ther opens, and the ground in a proper state. The earlier
they are planted the more perfect they will flower. Never
delay planting when there is an opportunity ; for if delay-
ed until the leaves are expanded, the bloom will be much
weakened, and the probability is, there will be no flowers,
and the plants meet with a premature death. It has been
said, " there is a particular advantage in planting some every
ten days, even to the middle of May ; for the flowering of
them may be retarded in this way: and the bloom of these
delightful shrubs continue for a much longer period." One
moment's reflection will convince us, that nature, while in
her own element, will not be retarded, suppose there was
no danger of instantaneous death to the plants. The arti-
ficial means that might be judiciously adopted, with which
we are acquainted, to keep back the blooming of hardy
plants, is to lift them as soon in spring as is practicable,
put them in boxes of earth, and then place them in the
driest part of an ice-house, until the desired time of plant-
ing, which may be delayed as long as the required time of
flowering. This will be found a true method of retarding
the flowering of roses especially, and not going counter to
the rules and principles of nature. There are many beau-
tiful varieties of the garden rose in cultivation, the names
of the finest of which we will give in the following cata-
logue :

African black, very dark crimson, compact and very

double.
Agreeable violet, large purplish red, expanded and double

fine.

Aurora, bright pink, compact and double.
Belle amabile, fine dark red, large and double.
Belle Hebe, large purplish red, cupped, double and fine.
Belle rouennaise, a very superb rose, with red centre and

blush edge.
Baron de Stael, bright cherry colour, globular, large, and

double.

52 ROSES. [March.

Belle Africaine, same as African black or African.
Broomley rose, fine red with blush edge, very compact and

double.
Black Tuscany, dark crimson, changeable, expanded and

double.
Belgic or Dutch Prpvins, red with very large flowers, cup-

ped and extra double.

Cinder rose, large blush, with pink centre, expanded and

double.

Delicious, rosy colour, large compact and double.
Edinberger, violet purple, very compact and most perfectly

double.

Flanders, vermilion colour, compact and double.
Fanny parrissot, pale blush, very compact and double.
Grandis royal, deep pink, large, expanded and double.
Globe white hip, beautiful white, globular, and most per-

fectly double.

Helen, light pink, very large cupped and fine.
Harrisoni,* bright yellow, cupped, small and semi-double.
Isabella, blush pink, very profuse, cupped and double.
Imperial blush, delicate blush, expanded, large and double.
Juliana, delicate pink, compact and double.
King of Rome, deep red, very large, compact and exqui-

sitely double.

King of the reds, red, expanded and double.
King of Mexico, reddish purple, imbricated and very dou-

ble.
Leonore, purplish red, very compact, imbricated, and dou-

ble.
La Belle Augusta, shaded blush and white, expanded and

double.
La folie de carse, red, robust habit, profuse flowering, im-

bricated and double.
Madam Hardy, pure white, large, globular and exquisitely

double.
Moss rose,t delicate rose, globular and perfectly double.

* This Rose with a "Florist's privilege," has been sold for the
yellow sweetbrier. It is also called Hogg's Yellow Rose.

f It has long been questioned, whether the Moss Rose was a dis-
'•T.t soecies, or merely a seminal variety of the Provins Rose. I

March.~] ROSES. 53

Moss blush, pale blush, globular and very double.

white, old white pale flesh colour, expanded and

double.
white bath, or Clifton, white moss, fine white cupped

and double.
crimson or Damask, very bright rose, expanded and

double, and very mossy.

("This is not properly a moss rose,
crested moss or J but has a curiously mossy calyx

crested Provins, | that envelops the bud — pink,
l_ globular and double.

Luxemburg, bright red, compact and double.

Marbree, red, very faintly mottled.

• panache, frequently striped.

poncteau, semi-double, spotted.

perpetual white, blooming in clusters.

unique de Provence, white.

Nonpareil, rosy red, compact and perfectly double.
Negritina, pink, very compact, imbricated and double.
Ombre superb, dark crimson, cupped and double.
Provins cabbage, see Cabbage Provins.

red, see red Provins.

white, see white Provins.

Prince de Joinville, bright rose, large, expanded and finely

double.

Proserpine negro, dark red, globular, fine and double.
Prolific blush, changeable blush, expanded and double.
Queen of violets, violet colour, compact, cupped and very

double.
Queen of Roses, beautiful rosy purple, imbricated and

double.

Queen Caroline, fine changeable red, cupped and double.
Royal Portugal, fine pink, very compact, and exquisitely

double.
Royal virgin, blush, expanded, large, and double.

perfectly agree with the latter opinion — for in June, 1836, 1 saw in
my nursery a plant of the Moss rose with a large shoot that had
sported back to the Provins Rose, and entirely destitute of moss
on either shoots or buds. We have no faith in black and yellow
Moss Roses ; all we have seen for such, have proven false to their
character.

5*

54 UOSES. [March.

Sweet Brier, single pink.

celestial, blush, fine double flowered.

Swiss Rose, large pink, expanded, and profusely double.

Tuscany, see Black Tuscany.

Unique or white Provins, pure white, very large globular,

and double, superb.
Unique striped, often is perfectly white, and merely a sport

from the former.

Violatum, violet purple, expanded and double.
Vandal carmine, compact, imbricated, and double.

We mention these as fine ; but among several thousand
cultivated varieties of the garden rose, there must be many
of equal, if not surpassing beauty; of Rosa spinosissima,
there are about five hundred varieties ; Rosa gallica, two
hundred ; R. centifolia, one hundred and fifty ; R . damas-
cene, above one hundred ; R. alba, fifty ; j?. rubigindsa,
thirty ; and of various sorts above eleven hundred. In
several individual collections of Europe, there are culti-
vated above fifteen hundred species, sub-species, and vari-
eties.

When planted, they are too frequently crowded indiscri-
minately among other shrubs, which prevents them having
the effect they would have if planted singly or grouped.
They vary in size in different sorts from one to ten feet.
When planted in the latter method, they should be assimi-
lated in size of leaves and manner of growth, with the
greatest variation of flower ; or if planted in small patches,
each distinct in colour, will have a very picturesque effect.
Another desirable and fanciful method, is to plant them in
figures, with edgings of wire, willow, or any other sub-
stitute, in imitation of basket work, which is called " bas-
kets of roses ;" the ground enclosed in the basket margin
to be made convex, which will present a greater surface to
the eye ; the strong shoots to be layered, or kept down by
pegs in the ground, having the points of the shoots, only to
appear above the soil, which should be covered with moss.
With this treatment, in a few years the whole surface of
the basket will be covered with rose buds and leaves, of
one or various sorts. If two or three of the larger growing
sorts are taken, such as Moss or Provins, they may be
trained so as to cover a surface of several square yards.

March.'] CLIMBING ROSES. 55

A modern invention in the cultivation of the rose is, to
grow them in shape of trees, by budding on strong growing
kinds at different heights from the ground, according to
taste, and the purposes intended. If budded on Rosa Cd-
nina, or Dog Rose, they are much more valuable : it is a
lasting and strong growing stock, and the worst of all stocks
is the Boursalt rose, and it is too frequently resorted to,
being easy of propagation. They will form in a few years
handsome round heads, which will flower more freely than
by layers, or trained on their own stalk. They are parti-
cularly desirable among low shrubs. When planted, they
should be well supported by strong rods, to prevent the
wind from destroying them. If any of the roots have been
bruised in lifting, cut off the bruised part with the knife,
and likewise shorten the young shoots ; breaking the earth
well about their roots when planting. The rose has been
an esteemed shrub among all civilized nations. The flow-
ers are double, semi-double, and single ; the colours are
pink, red, purple, white, yellow, and striped, with almost
every shade and mixture ; the odour universally grateful.
This plant is cultivated in every garden, from the humblest
cottager to the loftiest prince, and by commercial gardeners
in Europe extensively, for distilling rose water, and making
the essential oil of roses. They delight in a rich loamy
soil, and require plenty of moisture while in a growing state.
Those sorts which throw up numerous suckers should be
lifted every three or four years, reduced, and then trans-
planted. When thus removing them, avoid as much as
possible exposing their roots ; and when newly planted,
mulching is of considerable advantage ; that is, putting half
rotten stable-manure on the surface of the ground round
their roots, which prevents evaporation, and keeps up a
constant moisture. If this were done in general to our
roses in dry seasons, it would greatly improve their flower-
ing. For Chinese and other roses, see next month.

CLIMBING ROSES.

This is the best time to prune ever-blooming climbing
roses, such as Champney, Noisette, &c. Many of these,
when allowed to grow year after year without pruning, be-

50 GRASS PLATS AND WALKS. \_Mdrch.

come unsightly : they never bear flowers on the old wood,
that is, wood of three or four years. Having a tendency
to throw out young shoots from the bottom of the stem, the
old wood should be cut out, thus encouraging the young
wood, which the second year bears the most and finest
flowers. In severe winters, the extremities of the shoots
are frequently killed, and we have often seen all the wood
black or brown, and apparently dead. When that is the
case, it is best to leave it until they begin to grow, which
will show what is dead or alive, when they can be pruned
to better advantage.

DECIDUOUS ORNAMENTAL FLOWERING SHRUBS.

The earlier the planting of these shrubs is attended to in
this month, the more will their growth and flowering be
promoted, having all finished before the buds begin to
expand. (For kinds recommended, see list, end of the
volume.) They should never be planted too thick, but
leave space for them to grow as they respectively require,
and according as they are designed for open or close shrub-
beries, clumps, or thickets. Have all in readiness, that it
may be done with as much expedition as possible, to pre-
vent their roots from being dried by the sun and wind in
time of planting. Make the holes intended for their recep-
tion round, capacious, and deep enough to hold their roots,
without confining them in the least, and loosen well the
bottom, putting new and fresh soil under their roots, break-
ing and pulverizing it during the operation, and frequently
shaking the plant as you progress in filling up. When
done, make all firm with the foot, leaving a circular cavity
to hold the water they will require during dry weather.
Give rods, and tie with bands all that need that support
before they are left, lest they should be neglected. Cut
off any of the bruised roots or irregular growths of the
branches.

GRASS PLATS AND WALKS.

A most wonderful renovator of grass plats may be found
in Guano — take at the rate of one pound to twelve square

March.~\ GRASS PLATS AND WALKS. 57

yards, mix it with double the quantity of sand, and before
rain in April or May, sow the mixture over the grass — in
a few days its effects will be seen. Where grass lawns
are poor, and of a pale yellow colour, about four hundred
weight to the acre, mixed with sand or dry earth, will
effectually restore them to a luxuriant verdure.

Rake and sweep off from these all litter, and worm-cast
earth, and give an occasional rolling to settle the ground,
and render the surface smooth, where the sythe is to be
used. The grass will likewise grow better by rolling it
where the frost has partially thrown it out, and add greatly
to its beauty. Cut the edgings with an edging iron or
spade, so that the whole will have a finished appearance.
If any new turf is required to be laid down, this is a very
good time to do it, before vegetation is strong ; as the turf
that is now laid will have taken root before the dry season
commences. Where a great extent is to be done, sowing
might be adopted; but it will not have the effect of turf
under three years, and during that time must be carefully
cut, after the first season, every three weeks, while grow-
ing, nor must it be too frequently walked upon. White
clover and true perennial rye-grass are the seeds most
proper for sowing. The ground must, in the first place,
be all equally made up, and leveled with the spade and
rake ; not "cart loads of soil laid down and leveled," which
would finally become very uneven, and would need to be
lifted and relaid next year. The best turf is that of a close
growing pasture or common, free from all kinds of weeds
or strong roots, and the grass short. To cut it expeditiously,
be provided with a turfing-iron ; but if that cannot be con-
veniently had, a spade may do very well. Strain a line
tight, cutting the turf lengthwise, at equal distances, from
twelve to eighteen inches. Next draw the line across, cut-
ting from one and a half to two feet; then cut them up with
the spade, about one and a half inch thick. In laying, join
them close and alternately; when done, K>at them firm with
a level wooden beater, and roll with a heavy roller.

Grass walks, in the last century, were very popular ; but
time having put them to the test, they are found unfit for
walking upon or using in any manner, almost for one-half
of the year ; therefore, not answering the purposes intend-
ed. They require great attention to keep them in order;

58 GRAVEL WALKS. \_March.

and if not always neat and clean, they are a disagreeable
object in a garden ; but when they are well dressed, their
effect is very enlivening. Where they are desired, pre-
pare the ground as above directed ; making the walk a
little higher than the adjoining borders, to prevent the earth
from being washed on it by the rain. Allowing the walks
to be six feet wide, make the centre five inches higher than
the sides, or about seven-eighths of an inch to the foot
whatever the breadth may be, which will form a gentle de-
clivity to throw off the rain. When laid, beat and roll it
well ; cutting the edge neat and even. Water frequently
if the weather sets in dry. To keep grass walks or plats
in order, they should be mown once every three or four
weeks from May to September, and the grass each time
swept clean off. When the grass is allowed to get long
before being cut, the roots become tender; and die when
exposed to the sun ; at last the grass is all in spots, and in
another year requires to be relaid. »

GRAVEL WALKS.

A practice once existed of turning these into heaps, or
ridges during winter, to destroy weeds, &c. But this has
almost been given up as unnecessary, unsightly, inconve-
nient, and not doing any material service.

Where the surface of these has become foul, irregular,
or mossy, they had better be turned over four or five inches
deep where the gravel will admit of it ; but if not, hoe and
rake them perfectly clean, give a new coat of gravel, and
pick up any stones that you think too large ; then give
them a good rolling, applying it frequently after showers
of rain. When they are well attended to just now, they
will look well all the season ; but if neglected, they take
more labour, and are never in such good condition.

Fancy-edgings of Thyme, Thrift, Gentiana, Lavender,
and Violets — (Daisies may be used if the situation is
shaded.) The whole of these may be planted by the line
with the dibber except Thyme, which lay as directed for
Box. See this month, under that head. Any time in this
or beginning of next month will answer to make edgings
of these ; and if dry weather occurs before they begin to

March.~] OF GRAFTING. 59

grow after planting, they must have frequent waterings
until they have taken fresh root. Thyme requires to be
dressed twice during the season to keep it in order.

OF GRAFTING.

There are four methods of grafting. It can be applied
to all kinds of .shrubbery, choosing a common species from
the same genus that the sort belongs to, which is intended
to be multiplied. The one we will describe is whip or
tongue grafting, which is the preferable and most expe-
ditious plan with all deciduous shrubs or trees. The stock
upon which it is performed must be slender, from two-thirds
of an inch to any diameter suitable to the thickness of the
graft. Having headed the stock at a clear smooth part,
slope it on one side with a sharp knife at a very acute
angle, make a slit on the lower side of the slope about an
inch downward, to receive the tongue or wedge of the
graft or scion. Secondly, having the prepared scions cut
into lengths of 3, 4 or 5 eyes, take one which matches the
stock in size, and slope the bottom of it so as to fit the
stock, that the rinds of both may correspond exactly, espe-
cially on one side and at bottom ; make also a slit upward
in the graft, like that in the slope of the stock, so as the
one may be inserted in the other as evenly and completely
as possible. Let the graft be carefully held in its due po-
sition, while a bandage is applied. Take strands of Rus-
sian mat, and bind them in a neat manner several times
round the stock and graft. Lastly, cover the joint with
well-worked clay, coat from half an inch below the bottom
of the graft to an inch above the top of the stock, and to
the thickness of half an inch all round, finish it in an ob-
long globular form, taking care to work it close, that no air
may penetrate. If the clay is covered with moss, it will
partially prevent it from cracking.

The grafts will have taken when they begin to grow
freely : then the clay may be broken off, and the bandage
loosened, and put on again, but not so tight as formerly ;
give the drafts a stake for support, tying them thereto to
prevent accidents from the wind. Allow no shoots to arise
from the stock.

60 ANNUALS. [April

APRIL.

The ambition of every amateur and gardener during this
month is, to be at the head of every department and over
every spot. The operator's activity, in this month, almost
regulates the whole season. Every weed ought to be cut
down as soon as it appears, and the proverbial saying will
be realized, " A garden that is well kept is easily kept;"
one hour of laborious industry now will save two in the
heat of summer. A wet day need cause no loss of time :
prepare rods, bands and tallies, to be in readiness when
required. Many, in the height of bustle, never finish pro-
perly as they proceed, which is the worst of practices.
Every operation ought to be completely and properly finish-
ed before another is taken in hand, which will ultimately
prove the quickest and best method to work upon.

Let digging, hoeing and raking be done as expeditiously
as strength will allow, that the time may be devoted, for a
few weeks, to the beautifying of the garden and parterre, by
sowing and planting.

ANNUALS.

Those that are tender and were sown last month, accord-
ing to directions, will be ready to prick out into another
glass frame. Keep them a few inches apart to let the air
circulate. Give them frequent sprinklings with water, and
shade them with a mat for a few days until they have taken
fresh root; then give them plenty of air, and by the first
of next month, expose them night and day, to harden the
plants for the open ground. A few of the annual seeds of
every description, and of every country and climate, may
be sown any time after the middle of the month. If the
season prove favourable, they will do well ; but reserving
a part to sow about the 15th of May, will guard against
every extreme.

JlpriL~\ HYBRID CHINESE ROSES. 61

BIENNIALS AND PERENNIALS.

Any biennials that are intended to be removed, and not
done last month, must not be delayed longer. The roots of
many of them will be very strong, and, if possible, a cloudy
day should be chosen for the operation. Give one or two
copious waterings, and, if necessary, shade them from the
sun till they begin to grow.

Perennials. — For a limited description of several genera
and species, see last month. Where dividing the root or
replanting is required, let it be done forthwith. If the wea-
ther is dry, they must be carefully watered and shaded for
a few days.

ROSES.

The subject of garden roses was touched upon last
month, as far as our limits would admit. We will now
give short descriptions of the other varieties of Roses that
are of more delicate character — and, for distinction and
perspicuity, we will give them under the various divisions
to which they belong.

HYBRID CHINESE ROSES.

All the varieties of this fine division of Roses owe their
origin to the Chinese tea-scented, Noisette and Bourbon
Roses impregnated with the French Provins, and other
garden Roses. The seeds of such fertilized flowers pro-
duce hybrid Chinese Roses. These have, in many in-
stances, resulted from accident; but latterly, from the regu-
lar impregnating process. The superb varieties of this fine
division give a combination of all that is grand and beau-
tiful in roses. Their flowers are of the most elegant forms
and richest colours ; their foliage of great luxuriance, and
their branches flexile and vigorous. They are of first rate
importance for covering pillars and trellises, their shoots
frequently growing from six to ten feet in one season : these
6

62 HYBRID CHINESE ROSES. [April.

shoots may be thinned out year after year, but never short-
ened. They require very rich soil, and do best on their
own bottom, except elegans, Bizzare de le Chine, Welling-
ton, and other dwarf growing sorts, which do well as
standards. If they only possessed the property of ever-
blooming, they would be decidedly the finest division
of the tribe ; however, their general beauty and richness
of colour greatly make up for the deficiency. Many of
them are also delightfully fragrant. The following are
select sorts :

Blanchefleur, white, a free grower.

Belle parabere, shaded crimson, a strong grower.

Bon Ginneure, bright red, very early.

Belle Marie, bright pink, a fine dwarf.

Bizzare de la Chine, brilliant crimson, superb form, profuse
in flower, and perfectly double.

Bouquet blanc, white expanded, large and very double.

Brennus or Brutus, of some French collections, vivid red
or nearly scarlet, and as a pillar rose is one of the
finest objects I have ever witnessed ; flowers ex-
tremely large, and of the most exquisite form, cup-
ped, and perfectly double.

Catel, dark crimson, globular shape and very double.

Duke of Devonshire, rosy lilac faintly striped with white,
imbricated and perfect in its shape.

Due de Choiseul, pink, blush and rose, perfect form, and
makes a fine standard rose.

Egerie, brilliant red, a free grower.

Fabvier, very large changeable pink and red.

Fulgens or Malton, unique in brilliancy, approaching bright
scarlet, with large globular flowers, and of vigorous
growth, and foliage finely tinted with red.

General Lamarque, very dark crimson, of luxuriant growth,
and very distinct.

George the Fourth (Rivers's) most beautiful crimson, very
large and exquisitely double, and of globular form.
If in goofl. rich soil, the shoots will grow eight feet
in one season ; foliage, of a shining dark reddish
green, and is unquestionably one of the finest of the
family.

Georgiana, deep pink, cupped, large and finely double.

J9pril.~] HYBRID CHINESE ROSES. 63

L'ingenue, shaded violet crimson.

Louis Philippe, very splendid dark rose, a strong grower,
superb.

Lady Stuart, flesh colour, the form of the flowers before
expansion is perfectly spherical, and of exceeding
beauty.

Parny or La tourterelle, lilac or dove colour, cupped and
very double, requires to grow to a large bush be-
fore its beauty of form and profusion of bloom can
be seen.

Princess, delicate rose, globular and perfectly double, and
makes an excellent standard of itself, not being very
subject to make shoots from the root.

Pallagi, Ne plus ultra, or Gloire des hybrids, brilliant red,
globular, showy, and perfectly double.

Prolifere, dark rosy crimson, changing to violet, very per-
fect form, a dwarf.

Triomphe de Laffay, rosy white, large and very beautiful.

Victor Hugo, changeable rosy violet.

Violet de Belgique, dark violet crimson, very profuse and
perfect.

Watts' Celestial, Celestial Wells' Cabbage China, Flora
perfecta, &c., (it is known under all these names,)
delicate rose, petals finely cupped, flower rather flat,
is a free grower, and very profuse of bloom.

Wellington, (Lee's,) rich purple crimson, flower beautifully
formed; globular and very double. The first view
of it is similar to Bizzare de la Chine ; but it is
very distinct in growth, and the colour fades much
sooner than in the latter rose, and, indeed, is never
so bright.

William the Fourth, blush red, extremely large, very per-
fect form, and is unquestionably a hybrid from the
Cabbage Provins, and makes an excellent standard
or tea rose.

HYBRID ROSES THAT ARE STRIPED, SPOTTED OR
MARBLED.

Abbe Berlese, beautiful crimson, spotted with violet, and of
the most perfect form.

64 PERPETUAL ROSES. [April.

Camaieu, delicate rose, with lilac stripes, large and double.

Prince de Chimay, entirely new, crimson purple, beautifully
marbled with rose, large and very perfect.

Sandeur, Sandeur Panachee, of the French, and King of
Hybrids of the English, bright rose-colour, beauti-
fully spotted and striped with white, very double,
and of perfect form— luxuriant in growth, and the
shoots must never be shortened — we have seen it
several years in perfect bloom.

Village Maid, rose, striped with white, very compact and
double, and makes a fine standard. This rose is a
French hybrid of their Cent-feuilles ; but has been
brought to notice under an English name, a system
too much practised by the English growers, to keep
from their brother-craft the original and genuine
French name of the article; and wejind that this
system is occasionally attempted by our American
brethren. Shame!

PERPETUAL ROSES.

This division of Roses has been brought to notice but
very recently in this country, and even in Europe was not
known till about 1817, except in the red and white four
season's roses, which have, no doubt, contributed a large
portion of their " Sweet assistance ;" for in many of them
the powerful and agreeable fragrance of these two old
roses is very evident. Unfortunately, there are two-thirds
of these roses received both from France and England
under the head of Perpetuals, which only bloom once in
our arid and hot climate ; of course they will not make a se-
cond or third blooming, unless they, at the same time, grow
freely and make strong shoots ; consequently, they require
very rich and deep soil strongly manured, and repeated
manurings given every year, also, very frequent waterings
during the summer season with liquid manure: without such
nourishment, the best of perpetual roses will only flower
but once a year. It is a peculiar feature in this tribe of
roses, that they are nearly all reluctant in rooting from lay-
ers, therefore, it will be difficult to procure them on their
own bottoms. However, they grow admirably, grafted on,

dfyft/.] PERPETUAL ROSES. 65

or budded into, any of our strong-growing native roses ;
although the French Eglantine is most generally preferred.
When grown in a luxuriant and well cultivated state, they
require twice pruning. First, in November, when the
beds are dressed, cut off every shoot of the preceding sum-
mer's growth about two-thirds, and if they are crowded,
displace some of them entirely. If this autumnal pruning be
properly attended to, they will, early in the following June,
throw out a great number of luxuriant shoots, each having
one or more flowers. When a little sacrifice must be made
to have a fine autumnal bloom, therefore, leave only about
half the number of shoots, to bring forth flowers, the re-
mainder shorten to less than half their lengths. Each
shortened branch will soon put forth buds, and in July and
August the plants will again be covered with flowers. Our
fine growing fall months will greatly assist the plants
without farther aid in bringing forth their third blooming,
which will be in September and October ; and Rose du Roi
will even continue in mild seasons to bloom till November.
It is necessary, at all times, as soon as the flower begins
to fade, to cut it off, which greatly assists the vigour of the
plants. Although in colour many of them approximate
each other, yet the following sorts will prove sufficiently
distinct :

Antinous, light crimson, beautifully formed, and perfectly
double.

Belle Fabvier, dark rose, very large and double.

Billiard, rose-colour, very neat form, exceedingly sweet,
and perfectly double.

D' Angers, delicate rose, large size, compact and double.

D'Esquermes, bright rose, globular shape and double.

Du Roi, or Lee's crimson perpetual, bright red, cupped
shape, perfectly double, and exquisitely scented :
in warm dry weather, this rose is apt to become
much lighter in colour. It is still admitted by cul-
tivators that this rose is yet the king of perpetuals.

Grande et Belle, or Monstreuse rose, very large, cupped
and perfectly double.

Jean Hachette, (of the English,) delicate pink, extremely
large, cupped and extra double.

Pulcherie, dark purple, compact and double — pretty.

66 GRAFTING ROSES.

Palmyra, rosy pink.

Queen of Perpetuals, or Palotte picotee, pale blush, cup-
ped and perfectly double.

Scotch Perpetual, pale blush, a profuse and constant
bloomer.

Stanwell, perpetual blush, expanded and very double ; it
has much the habit of a Scotch Rose : when bud-
ded it is a constant and free bloomer.

Four season's pale rose, cupped and double.

White four seasons, nearly white, expanded and double ;
but rarely blooms oftener than once in the season.

Perpetual white moss, white, blooms in large clusters, and
when in bud, is very handsome ; but the flower of
itself is miserably indifferent, and, moreover, it is
not a true perpetual. It is one of those floricultu-
ral misnomers expressing what the public would
wish it to be, and not what it actually is.

GRAFTING 'ROSES.

The operation of grafting, from the pithy nature of the
stems of the rose, is more troublesome and seldom succeeds
so well as budding, though when the buds inserted the pre-
vious summer fail, it is worth while to have recourse to
grafting, which may succeed, and thus make up for the
failure. The cleft grafting is much practised, especially
on the continent of Europe, and is the most successful
method. It is necessary that the scion, (or young shoot
that is intended to be multiplied,) should be cut from the
bush before vegetation commences, and placed in some
shaded situation till the time of operation, which will be
after the buds begin to swell on the stock, when the head
of the stock may be cut horizontally to its desired height,
and a slit made in its crown downward one and a half or
two inches. The scion should be cut into lengths of two
and a half or three inches, and then cutting its lower end
into a wedge-like shape, inserting it into the slit of the
stock, keeping the back of the stock and scion in contact,
which must be held firmly and bound with ligatures of
soft bast-mat or worsted, and, in order to render it water-
proof, cover it with a paste made of pitch and bees-wax,

Jlpril.'] L'ISLE DE BOURBON ROSES. 67

or clay mixed with old slacked lime ; if the latter is used,
it will sometimes crack, which must be carefully filled up.
In August or September the ligatures may be cut on one
side, allowing the clay or wax to be displaced with the
natural growth of the plant. Should the graft fail, you
have still the resource of budding in August on the young
shoots that will grow from the stock. It must be observed
that grafting leaves a worse wound to heal over than bud-
ding, unless the stock and scion be nearly of the same
size. Every bud which appears below the graft should
be carefully rubbed off, except one or two nearest the
crown, to encourage the sap upward to the grafts, and as
soon as the latter begin to throw out leaves, the shoots from
the stock should be shortened, and in one or two weeks
more entirely taken off, if the scion has fairly grown. For
whip grafting, see page 59.

L'ISLE DE BOURBON ROSES.

This group of Roses is one of the finest in the whole
family of the " Queen of Flowers." They are generally
perfectly hardy, of luxuriant growth, and will grow almost
in any soil. They are profuse in blooming, and many of
them delightful in fragrance, from June to October. They
are flowering ornaments of the garden either as standards,
climbers, or bushes ; their foliage is large, exuberant and
agreeable, and when the plants are established and well
nurtured, they produce their flowers in immense clusters.
There are now many varieties ; the talent and ingenuity
of the French in rose culture and reproduction, will soon
give the floral world a farther supply of some fine varie-
ties, and many^/mer names. I can cheerfully recommend
the following sorts, which require pruning similar to hybrid
Roses :

Acidalie, rose white, large and perfect.

Bouquet de Flore, bright rose, large flower and a profuse

bloomer.
Augustine Lelieur, bright rose, beautifully globular, and

perfectly double.

68 ROSA INDICA, &C. [April.

General Dubourg, pale rose, globular, large and very
double.

Hermosa, bright rose, most perfect cupped form, a profuse
bloomer, and highly esteemed. During the sum-
mer months it loses much of its colour ; but in au-
tumn it is truly charming.

Le Phoenix, bright red, very perfect and fragrant.

Madame Desprez, dark rose, globular, and perfectly double,
blooms in large clusters, and approaches more the
Noisette tribe than any other of the Bourbon Roses.

Marechal De Villars, bright purple, compact and perfectly
double : it is a most beautiful variety.

Paul Joseph, brilliant crimson, very double and perfect,
though not so large a flower as many others.

Proserpine, purplish crimson, perfectly double.

Philippar, bright rose, compact and perfectly double, of
very luxuriant habit, and, when well established, a
great, bloomer.

Queen of the Bourbons, beautiful waxy blush, perfect in

form, profuse of flower — exquisite.
There might be several others added to the above, though

we consider these the best and most distinct in colour and

character.

ROSA INDICA OR (BENGAL OF THE FRENCH) CHINESE
EVER-BLOOMING ROSES.

Perhaps no Rose has been so universally distributed and
industriously cultivated as Rosa indica, (common Chinese
or daily Rose,) and Rosa Semperflorens, (crimson or san-
guinea Rose.) It has been a favourite from the cottage to
the mansion, and is truly a floral pioneer. They will
almost withstand every vicissitude of treatment ; but will
not well survive the winters in the open air, north of this
latitude, and even here they require some simple protec-
tion with straw, mats, litter, or other dry material during
winter.

The extensive demand for roses has induced many large
importations, and some superb additions within these few
years ; and many of those thought fine in the first edition
of this work, are now entirely discarded, giving place to

April. ~} HOSA INDICA, &c. 69

others of surpassing beauty. They require a very rich
loamy soil, well pulverized, and from fifteen to twenty
inches in depth.

The best season of the year for pruning them is about
the first of this month. In doing so it is not advisable to
shorten any of the young shoots, except in cutting off the
injured parts, that being the wood most productive of
bloom ; but where there is old stinted wood, it should be
cut out as close to the surface of the ground as the other
parts of the bush will permit, with any other of the oldest
wood that is too crowded. Dig every season in among
their roots a good supply of well decomposed manure, and
stir and hoe them frequently during the summer.

If I were to describe all I have seen of the China or
Bengal Rose, half of this volume would not contain them,
and three-fourths of them would not be worth a sight or
even a name ; nevertheless, some of them are beautifully
distinct and worthy of the utmost care. Such are

Agrippina, or Cramoisi Superieur, brilliant crimson, cup
form, large and finely double.

Arsenie delicate rose, of large size, perfectly double, a
strong grower, and profuse bloomer.

Boisnard, sulphury white, very perfect form.

Bengal Triomphant, La Sttperbe, Grande et Belle. This,
like many fine roses, has its several names, but the
former is the name under which I first knew it. It
is si strong grower, with very large well-formed
flowers of a rich purple crimson, which are ex-
tremely double, and always open well.

Beau carmine, dark crimson of a very distinct habit and
colour, is an excellent bloomer and finely formed.

Belle de Monza, changeable from pink to crimson, a very
compact and large flower, a rapid grower, and a
general favourite of long standing.

Belle Isidore is also a changeable rose ; it will open a light
pink colour, and before evening will be a rich crim-
son, is a regular and very double large rose, of
strong growth and easy culture, and when known
will be generally cultivated.

Gels, or Be ngal ' Cels, flesh colour, of the most perfect
form, extremely double and always opens perfect,

70 ROSA INDICA, &C. [April.

is a very profuse bloomer, and of a strong growing
habit ; it has much the appearance of a superb tea
rose.

Comble de Gloir, rich reddish crimson, a free bloomer, and
possesses considerable fragrance.

Duchess of Kent, delicate pink, a perfect flower of a glo-
bular form, and free bloom.

Gros Charles, shaded rose, extremely large and fine.

Hortensia, flesh colour, very double, and an excellent rose.

Indica or common daily, dark blush or rose colour — it is
the prototype of the family, and is a free growing
and profuse blooming plant, and can withstand every
variety of treatment. The flower is about three
inches in diameter; and in our descriptions, where
the word large is used, it signifies that the flower
is larger than the present variety, and very large
means still larger, say four inches ; extremely large,
between four and five inches. We have even seen
roses in favourable soils and cloudy weather six
inches in diameter, and would not be alarmed to
see a HYBRID Rose twenty-one inches in circum-
ference.

Icterose, creamy white, large and perfectly double.

Indica alba, white daily or sarmeteuse of some, pure white,
perfectly double, free growing, and profuse in flow-
ering; it is much more tender than the former, but
does tolerably well when protected during winter.
In the southern states it is a great and growing fa-
vourite. Thousands of this rose have been grown
and sold in Philadelphia within these five years.

Indica minor var, Lawrencia flore pleno, delicate rose, a
perfect rose in perfect miniature.

Jacksonia,* hundred leaved daily, or crimson daily, bright
red, large and most perfectly double, of luxuriant
growth, and more prickly (spines) than any other
rose of the sort we have seen.

L' Etna, bright light crimson, very double, globular, and
very distinct, is of a strong growing habit.

Lady Warrender, pure white, large cup form, very double
and a great bloomer.

* In compliment to Ex-President Jackson.

ROSA ODORATA OR TEA ROSE. 71

La Caemens, rosy shaded crimson, very perfect form.
Louis Philippe, dark crimson, very compact, globular, and

extremely double.

Madam Hersant, bright rose, very large, showy and double.
Marjolin, large, dark crimson, a very strong grower— -fine,
Mrs. Bosanquet, beautiful creamy blush, very large, per-
fectly formed — quite distinct.
Prince Eugene, very bright red, perfectly double cup form,

and a profuse bloomer.
Queen of France, shaded red, very large and perfectly

double.
Roi de Cramoisis or Eugene Beauharnais, bright crimson,

fine cup form— fragrant.
Vesuvius, very dark crimson, perfectly double and quite

sweet scented — a rare variety.
Queen of Lombardy, Heine de Lombardie, brilliant cherry

red, cupped, perfectly double, a strong grower, and

will be a great favourite — superb.
Semperflorens, Crimson Chinese or Sanguined, the type of

all the scarlet and crimson varieties of this division ;

it is perfectly double, of a rich crimson colour, and

is everywhere cultivated, and will not be easily

displaced from the window of the cottage, or the

veranda of the palace.
Websteria,* rich blush with pink centre, very compact and

perfectly double, plant of free growth and profuse

in bloom.

ROSA ODORATA OR TEA ROSE.

The original Rosa odorata or tea rose, has been and will
be a lasting favourite. . It is supposed to have been im-
ported from China so late as 1810, and is the leading parent
of all the fine varieties we now possess. As this very
popular and interesting group of Roses require more care
in their culture than any yet described, I will endeavour
to give the most explicit directions I am able, so as to en-
sure, at least, a great chance of success. They delight to
grow in a rich soil with a dry bottom, and in rather an

* Named in compliment to the Hon. D. Webster.

72 ROSA ODORATA OR TEA ROSE. [April.

elevated situation, and a southern aspect. Select a spot of
the dimensions requisite for a quantity of plants to be
planted, and dig therefrom soil to the depth of at least
eighteen inches ; six inches of the bottom may be filled
with pieces of bricks, stone, or lime — rubbish of any sort ;
on this, place a layer of compost, (at least fifteen inches
thick, to allow for its settling,) half turf, or good garden
mould, and half well rotted manure, with about an eighth
of sand, all completely mixed together. A few weeks after
the bed is thus prepared — say about the first of May, the
roses may be planted about two feet apart. In this latitude,
during the severity of winter, they should be protected by
a temporary frame: if covered with glass, so much the
better; but boards will serve where glass frames are not at
hand. With this treatment they will never receive the
least injury from our severest winters, and they will bloom
in the greatest perfection the whole season. The only
pruning they require is, merely to remove any old shoots
to give room for those of younger growth, and to occasion-
ally shorten any of extra length. However, where there
are only solitary plants, they will do very well covered
with branches of cedar, or a box or barrel perforated in
several places to allow the moisture to evaporate. Those
that are grafted or budded, will not generally stand the
winters of our eastern or middle states, and should be lifted
and put in a back shed, or tied close to the ground and
covered with earth. About the first of the month they can
be raised up and pruned of any dead or superfluous wood,
when they will bloom nearly as perfect as those that have
received finer treatment. In the southern states they enjoy
the great luxury of this rose in its utmost perfection ; there
they grow in "wild luxuriance," displaying their varied
beau ies, and perfuming the air with their delightful fra-
grance. Every flower garden in mild latitudes, should
have a full and perfect collection of such " pleasing flow-
ers." Among. the many distinct varieties known to be
worth culture, are

Antherose, pale pinkish white, large and compact.
Aikinton, flesh colour, very double, large and perfect.
Barbot, deep pink inclining to creamy blush, very large.
Boutrand, large double pink.

April. ~] ROSA ODORATA OR TEA ROSE. 73

Bougere, rosy lilac, extremely large, a strong grower, cup
shaped.

Belle Marguerite, Countess of Mbemarle, of the English,
(and even a spurious rose of the latter name has
been introduced to our collections) — pale rose,
changing to dark pink in the centre, large and ex-
tremely double.

Bon Silene, cherry red, shaded with blush, very large,
beautifully cupped petals, and perfectly double ; is
of strong growth and finely scented ; is a new and
very scarce rose ; even in France it is but in a few
collections.

Bourbon, white with greenish white centre, a very double
rose, free in growing and profuse in flowering, and
is generally known.

Caroline, bright rosy pink, very large, beautifully formed —
pendulous and highly esteemed.

Clara Sylvain, pure white, most perfectly double, a strong
grower, and abundant in bloom, very sweet and
highly esteemed.

Devoniensis, yellowish white, with pink centre, very large,
always perfect, finely cupped — delightfully fragrant
— If I were confined to cultivate only twelve roses,
this magnificent variety would be one of the number.

Due de Orleans, bright rose, 'large, globular, and finely
double.

Elisa Sauvage, canary yellow, fading to creamy white,
very large and double.

Flavescens, lutea or yellow tea, pale straw colour, cupped
petals, very large, and though only semi-double,
has not a rival of its colour; it Avas introduced to
England from China by Mr. Parkes in 1824; is a
strong grower, but more tender than any other tea
rose of its habit.

Floralie, beautiful blush, bloomy in clusters, very fragrant,
and as yet quite rare.

Goubault, rosy blush with yellow centre, very large.

Hippolyte, yellowish white, large and double, a strong
grower and profuse bloomer.

Hymenee, white, with cream centre, globular, large, and
very double.

Jaune panache, pale straw, with rose shades.

74 NOISETTE ROSES.

La Sylphide, rosy buff changing to creamy white, very
perfect and always beautiful.

Lilicine, lilac, very distinct, compact, and perfectly double.

Lyonnais, very large, pale pink inclining to deep blush.

Madame Desprez, or Bengal Madame Desprez, pure
white, cupped, large and finely double, is a beauti-
ful rose, and is rarely excelled in delicacy of fra-
grance.

Mansais, buff, very large, finely double, and highly fra-
grant.

Mirabile, changeable, white, yellow or pink, fully double,
and very distinct.

Moire, rose and blush, beautifully cup formed, very per-
fect, and proves to be a fine grower.

Odorata, or common tea Rose, fine blush, very large cupped
petals, delightfully scented, and everywhere ad-
mired, and is the foundation of this sweet-scented
family.

Princess Marie, flesh colour, a most superb rose of first
rate merit, perfectly double, and finely scented;
when well grown, will have flowers about five
inches in diameter.

Safrano, when the bud first opens it is of a fine saffron co-
lour, very pretty.

Strombio, creamy white, perfectly double, large and glo-
bular.

Triomphe du Luxembourg, yellow flesh or copper colour,
extremely large and perfectly double ; is a rampant
grower, has a most splendid bud.

Victorie modesta, blush, cupped, very large and double.

NOISETTE ROSES.

It is a remarkable fact, that the original of this famous
group of Roses originated in Charleston, South Carolina,
with Mr. Noisette, about 1815, who sent it to his brother,
the well-known nurseryman, at Paris (France). It was
supposed to be produced between the white musk, cluster
and the common China rose, and created a very great ex-
citement among the Parisian florists and amateurs ; but
since its introduction to France, thousands of seedlings

rfpril.'] NOISETTE ROSES 75

have been raised from it, and so many of these are evi-
dently hybrids, of the tea-scented and other roses, that
some of the roses called " Noisettes," have almost lost
every character of the division. They are generally hardy-
plants, requiring rich soil and a routine of treatment simi-
lar to the " Isle de Bourbon Roses." They will amply
repay for extra attention to their culture. The great pro-
fusion and perpetual succession of flowers from June till
November, of immense clusters, frequently from fifty to
one hundred in each, make them truly ornamental objects,
and are well calculated for covering fences, pillars, or trel-
lis-work. Although they are hardy, they will be benefited
by a light covering of mats or litter : south of this, nothing
of the kind is required. It must be kept in mind, that
pillar roses can scarcely have too much manure when
planting, and they also require a regular annual dressing
of some enriching material. We consider the annexed
list indispensable to a flower garden. The flower of a
Noisette Rose varies from one to three inches in diameter
in the following descriptions ; we take two inches as our
standard :

Alba, white, a beautiful dwarf with small flowers ; but in
the greatest profusion, and the whole bush is fre-
quently like one Bouquet.

Aimee vibert, unique or Rosa nevia, snowy white, very
compact and perfectly double, and, if well treated,
is one of the finest white dwarf Noisette Roses, and
is a profuse autumnal bloomer.

Belle de Esquermes, dark rose, very compact and double ;
a strong grower and fine pillar rose.

Bengal Lee, Noisette Lee, Blush perpetual China, cffiles-
tis, grandi/lora, monstrosa, and Triomphe des Noi-
settes, are all one and the same rose, blush or
creamy white, very double, of strong growth, and
flowers in large clusters ; it is a good old rose and
fortunate in new names.

Conque de Venus, creamy white, with darker centre, very
compact and double ; blooms in large clusters, and
is delightfully scented, a regular good article.

Champneyana or Champney's pink cluster, light pink — a

76 NOISETTE ROSES.

rampant grower, profuse bloomer, and universally
cultivated,

Charles the Tenth, rosy purple, very double, and in dry
weather blooms well, but in moist weather, its buds
do not open ; is an excellent rose in a southern lati-
tude.

Coeurjaune and Coeitr suffre are alike yellowish white, a
hardy rose of strong growth, and profusion of
flowers.

Cloth of Gold, or chromatella — deep sulphur yellow, very
large flower, cupped and fine — fragrant.

Cora L. Barton, fine rosy pink, very large flower, a profuse
bloomer, fragrant.

Euphrosine, rosy buff, inclining to yellow, very fragrant —
a very profuse blooming variety of medium growth.

Fellenberg, bright crimson, double, a strong grower, pro-
fuse in bloom, and a decided, distinct, and excellent
rose.

Jaune Desprez, or French yellow Noisette, rosy buff, large
and perfectly double, flowers in large clusters ; is a
strong grower and delightfully fragrant, very hardy
and well calculated for a pillar rose.

Julia, rosy lilac, of strong growth, profuse in bloom — very
perfect and double.

Julienne le Sourd, dark rose, a most profuse bloomer, per-
fectly double, and a fine dwarf.

Lamarque, greenish white, extremely large, profuse in
bloom, perfectly double — and agreeably scented —
closely approaches the tea rose in its size and fra-
grance ; it makes a splendid pillar rose, frequently
growing ten feet in one season.

La Biche, pale flesh, large and double, a fine pillar rose, and
very distinct and fragrant.

Lady Byron, pink, very compact, and perfectly double, and
is a good pillar rose.

Lutea or Smithii, pale yellow, large double flowrers, but
does'not open well in moist weather ; it is a superb
article when perfect, and is quite a dwarf, having
very little of the Noisette character, but delightfully
scented.

Luxembourg, fine rosy purple, very perfect, a free grower
and fragrant.

MUSK-SCENTED ROSES, &C. 77

OrlofF, bright pink, large and showy, though not very dou-
ble—a profuse bloomer when well established — is a
very strong grower, and excellent for covering ar-
bours or trellises.

Pompone, rosy pink, a very strong grower, with dense
foliage, sweet scented.

Solfatare, sulphur yellow, large and perfectly double, a
strong grower, very fragrant, when well established
blooming profusely.

Superb, delicate pink, an old rose, perfectly double, blooms
in large clusters; is of strong habit, and flowers
profusely. This, with Noisette Lee, are our two
best old Noisette Roses.

MUSK-SCENTED ROSES, (ROSA MOSCHATA.)

The white musk-scented cluster rose is one of the oldest
inhabitants of the rose garden, and is known all over the
earth, where the rose has been cultivated, or its name been
heard. It is supposed that it is the famed rose of the Per-
sian poets. Although there are several varieties under
this head, very few of them, indeed, have that peculiar
fragrance which the genuine old species possesses. They
require similar treatment to the Bourbon and Noisette
Roses, and, in fact, fanciers have been, if possible, too
minute, to separate this group from the Noisette Roses,
merely because they are, in some degree, musk-scented.

Old musk cluster, yellowish white, expanded and semi-
double, blooms in immense clusters and finely
scented.

Frazerii, Blush musk and Pink musk, all the same rose,
blush pink, semi-double, much puffed in Europe,
being the only one of colour in the group.

Herbemonte, pure white, very large flower in fine clusters.

Princesse de Nassau, creamy white, perfectly double, very
fragrant, and blooms in large clusters.

Ranunculus, musk cluster, pure white, very double ; flow-
ers in very large clusters.

Susanna, small yellowish white, very fragrant.

78 CLIMBING ROSES, &C. {April.

CLIMBING ROSES THAT BLOOM ONLY ONCE IN THE
SEASON.

Under this head we will have to place several roses from
very different countries, but all agreeing in habit and
flowering disposition. Our readers will now be fully im-
pressed with the knowledge that all roses of luxuriant
growth require copious nourishment. Such is the case
with many of those we are now about to describe ; but
others of them will grow and bloom most beautifully perfect
even on the poorest of soil, and are very capable of cover-
ing rock-work, a sterile bank, or naked wall, or any disa-
greeable object, where it is not convenient to excavate for
the purpose of introducing nutritious soils ; and several of
them are of such a hardy nature, that they will withstand
the utmost severity of our northern states ; others are more
delicate, and can only bear the mild winters of a southern
climate, where they richly display both flowers and foliage,
and even retain their foliage during winter, and are ever-
greens for screening disagreeable objects or covering ar-
bours. The best of the united groups are

(r) * Ayrshire tea scented, or Rosa Ruga, delicate blush,
flowers very compact and perfectly double ; it is a
free grower and an excellent pillar rose, with a de-
lightful fragrance. There are several others of the
Ayrshire Rose, under very tempting names, such
as Double Crimson, Mottled, Eclipse, Ayrshire
Queen, Elegans, &c. These may do for those who
wish a multiplicity of names ; but will not take with
our floral public, who wish every plant to have some
merit as well as a name to recommend it.

Boursalt, pink or reddish pink, semi-double, profuse flower-
ing, and is our earliest rose — is a free grower, and
of the most hardy nature ; in fact, all the Boursalts
are .equally hardy, and withstand the severest cold.

Boursalt, white, Rose de Lisle, Boursalt Florida, Calypso,
Pompone Florida, and Bengal Florida, &c., for it

* Those marked thus (r) will do admirably for rock-work.

CLIMBING ROSES, &C. 7Q

is known by all these names, and I have imported
it four times, under different names ; it is a blush
white, and frequently exceedingly large and hand-
some, and is a pillar rose ; its very double delicate
flowers have a fine effect.

Boursalt elegans, Purple Boursalt, Purple Noisette, &c.,
flowers of a vivid purple crimson, with an occa-
sional stripe of white, nearly double, and an early
and profuse bloomer ; is an excellent rose for an
arbour.

Boursalt Inermis, very large, bright pink, a little fragrant,
grows and blooms freely.

Banksia alba, white, with pink centre, very small, but per-
fectly double, has an agreeable violet perfume, and
is a profuse bloomer, but is entirely too delicate to
withstand our winters. This and the following are
natives of China :

Banksia lutea, yellow inclining to buff, in every other cha-
racter similar to the former. They are elegant
evergreens in the gardens of our southern states,
and are very highly esteemed ; frequently known
under the name of White Evergreen Multiflora,
and Yellow Evergreen Multiflora.

Bourbon, bright rosy red, nearly double, and flowers pro-
fusely, and is a good pillar rose ; and although the
parent of the celebrated L'Isle de Bourbon Roses,
it only blooms in May or June.

Bengalensis scandens, or Reuse de blanc, rose white, large
double flower, and of free growth.

(r) Felicite de pe?petua.rjl?oisettejtorabunda, Melard sem-
pervirens, Noisette compacta, Mademoiselle Eu-
phrasie, and perhaps many other high-sounding
names ; it is a beautiful cream white, with perfect
shaped flowers, and makes a lovely rock-work or
pillar rose; but is rather delicate for our severe
winters.

Grevlllia, or seven sisters, is a very curious rose, flowered
the first time with us in June, 1830. It is of the
Multiflora variety, and is a native of China ; growth
free and luxuriant ; leaves large and deeply nerved ;
flowers in large clusters, almost every eye of the
wood of last year producing one cluster, having on

80 CLIMBING ROSES, &C.

it from eight to twenty roses, according to the state
of the plant, each rose expanding differently in
colour or shade. Many suppose that they expand
all of the same colour, and change afterward. This
is not the case. We have seen them white, pink,
red, purple, and various other shades when the
bloom expanded ; and on two clusters we have ob-
served twenty-two distinct shades of colour. In
fact, it is a complete nondescript, having roses
single, semi-double, and double, large and small,
and every colour hetween white and purple, form-
ing, in every garden where it is planted, a wonder
of the vegetable world.

(r) Lepoldine de Orleans, beautiful hlush, very compact
and profuse in bloom, and is a very celebrated rose.

Multiflora, beautiful pink, very compact and double; it is
rather tender for this latitude. Celebrated as being
the first climbing rose that was planted in or about
Philadelphia, and was so much admired, that
twenty dollars were frequently given for a single
plant.

Multiflora alba, similar to the former, but lighter in colour,
though not a pure white.

Graulhie, pure white, cup form in large clusters, very
double, a strong grower and free bloomer.

Multiflora Laure de Voust, changeable pale blush, pink or
white, very compact, of the most perfect form, and
a profuse bloomer, of rampant growth, and more
hardy than the two preceding ; it is one of the most
. beautiful and elegant of climbing roses, with rather
large flowers and luxuriant foliage.

(r) Princess Maria and Princess Louise are unquestionably
the same, a beautiful pale rose of exquisite form and
beautifully cupped petals.

Prairie Rose, a few elegant sorts have been grown from this
single flowered native rose ; all are of rapid growth
and partaking of the parent in blooming later than
roses generally that flower only once in the season ;
they are admirably adapted for covering arbours,
rock-work, or out-buildings of any kind, being of
the most hardy nature and standing the severest of
our winters even in the most northern states.

•3pril.~] ROSA MICROPHYLLA, &C. 81

Beauty of Prairies, or Queen of Prairies, dark rose, cup
form, very large, and frequently striped with white ;
it is highly esteemed and a strong grower.

Prairie Baltimore Belle, nearly white, very perfect form,
quite double, blooming in clusters.

Prairie Superba, blush, a very profuse bloomer in rich
clusters, perfectly double.

Prairie Purpurea, rosy purple, imbricated, very double,
said to bloom again in the autumn.

Russelliana, Cottage Rose, and Scarlet Grevlttia: this is
a distinct article in growth from any other of this
group ; it is perfectly hardy, and does not climb so
freely ; still it makes a lovely pillar rose with large
clusters of bright crimson shaded flowers.

(r) Sempervirens pleno alba, pure white, flowers perfectly
double and profuse; the strong shoots of last year
will produce a large cluster of flowers almost from
every eye ; this Rose is termed evergreen in Eu-
rope, but with us is perfectly deciduous ; although
in our southern states it retains its foliage during
winter.

Triomphe de BoUwiller, is certainly a most superb blush
white rose, globular and double, and blooms in fine
clusters, having an agreeable and rather delightful
fragrance, and is a magnificent pillar plant.

ROSA MICROPHYLLA, (OR SMALL-LEAVED ROSE.)

This pretty little Rose was originally from China, and
since it has been introduced, several additions have been
made by cultivation ; although we have not yet seen any
to excel the original Rosa microphylla. They delight in
light rich dry soils, and form very fine bushes for grass
plats or small lawns, and generally flower the whole sum-
mer, producing their blooms from short young shoots pro-
duced from the wood of two or three years' growth. The
plants should all have a little protection the first winter
after planting, and in pruning the shoots should only be
thinned out, or any dead piece cut off: we have had seve-
ral roses under very enticing names added to this group,
such as striped microphylla, crimson microphylla, scarlet

82 ROSA MICROPHYLLA, &C. \_rfpril.

microphylla, all deceptive ; and even the first plant that
came out as double white, proved to be entirely single ; but
there is now a genuine double white, though not properly
a microphylla. The following few are all we have seen
worth cultivating :

Microphylla. This rose is unique in every character. The
foliage is very small and neat, and the calyx thick
and bristly. The flowers are produced at the
extremity of the young shoots in twos or threes,
according to the strength of the plant; they are
large and double ; the exterior petals large and full;
those of the interior are very short and thick-set;
the colour in the centre is dark, shading lighter
toward the exterior ; the spines are in pairs on each
side of the compound leaves. It is perfectly hardy,
and greatly esteemed, and not so subject to be
attacked by insects as other roses.

Microphylla rubra, dark red, having every character of the
preceding. They are frequently called " The Burr
Rose," from the appearance of the bud.

Microphylla violace, reddish violet; in habit very similar
to the former, but much darker in colour, and is a
true microphylla.

Maria Leonida, white, centre tinged with pink; is very
sweet scented — blooms all the season— but has more
the habit of a Macartney than Microphylla Rose.

Microphylla odorata alba, yellowish white, perfectly double,
and finely scented ; is a strong grower and a good
deal of the Macartney Rose habit.

We, have now concluded our few descriptions of the
beautiful family of Roses ; informing our readers, if they
should think it brief, we can assure them it is candid, and,
as far as we know, in every respect impartial. No doubt
we could have given many beautiful details of "things" we
never saw and probably never will ; and we also promise
that a few of our descriptions will, in some situations and
peculiar seasons, "come short," or perhaps " overshoot the
mark ;" for it is well known to the cultivator, that double
roses will occasionally come single, and red roses become
blush, and blush roses frequently bloom entirely white, and

JlpriL~] CLIMBING PLANTS. 83

vice versa. We have also seen a moss bush have roses
and shoots entirely without their "mossy coat." We have
also avoided a few of high standing in character ; but not
being entirely known to us in their intrinsic worth, a de-
scription of them would have been too hazardous, knowing
that much exaggeration exists.

The Roses and all their allies, described in this month,
should be planted from the first to the middle of the month ;
and we would again enforce upon our rose amateurs the
actual necessity of giving soil of enriching qualities to all
their roses; they will be amply repaid for their trouble:
nearly all the failures of roses giving a grateful and even
universal satisfaction, can be traced to bad and shallow soils,
more especially in our city gardens, where cheapness of
workmanship is the best recommendation ; consequently,
there are a few inches of tolerable-looking clay thrown over
brick-bats and lime rubbish, and, when finished, is con-
sidered a " fine job," because it is done cheap ; the result
is, that often the very next season the whole has to be gone
over and done in a permanent manner; not less than six-
teen or eighteen inches of the best dark loam should be in
every garden, and that well incorporated with manure at
least one year old, and also have a portion of sand or fine
rotten rock thoroughly mixed with it ; and then, and not till
then, the proprietor may expect satisfaction.

CLIMBING PLANTS.

As shade is much required in this country, and plants
suitable for covering arbours, &c., eagerly sought for, we
will make a few remarks on those which are preferred for
their beauty, growth, hardiness, &c.

Aristolochia sipho Birthwort or Dutchman's pipe,is a very
curious blooming plant, with extraordinary large
folioge, and makes an excellent arbour twiner,
affording a dense and cooling shade.

Clematis vilicella pulchella, or double virgin's bower, is an
esteemed climbing plant, of rapid growth, with large
•flowers in great profusion from June to September.
There are several varieties of the above, two of

84 CLIMBING PLANTS. [April.

them single, and it is said that there is likewise a
double red.

Clematis coeriilea, C. cn>rulea grandiflora, and C. azurca
grandiflora. This beautiful and entirely new
climber is already distinguished by three distinct
names, and has been several times figured, each
time with more or less flattery. I must confess the
first representation I saw of it truly enchanted me ;
the brilliancy of its blue surpassing every flower I
had ever beheld ; and named C. azurca grandiflora.
The flowers are frequently four or five inches in
diameter, of a fine, bluish violet colour, blooming
freely and perfectly hardy, the most magnificent of
the family.

Clematis Sieb6ldii,OT bicolor. This is another of Dr. Van
Siebold's Japan additions, and is nearly related to
C. florida. The leaves and branches, however,
are rather more downy, and the petals suffused
with violet spots ; the anthers are also of a violet
colour, which has given it the name of bicolor; it
is of graceful habit, and the size and beauty of its
blossoms render it an attractive inhabitant of the
flower garden.

C. faimmttla, sweet-scented virgin's bower, is of very rapid
growth. Established plants will grow from twenty
to forty feet in one season, producing at the axils
of the young shoots, large panicles of small white
flowers of exquisite fragrance ; the leaves are com-
pound pinnate ; in bloom from July to November,
but in August, September and October, the flowers
are in great profusion, perfuming the whole gar-
den. This is one of the best climbing hardy
plants, and ought to have a situation in every
garden.

C. Virginiana is of rapid growth, and well adapted for
arbours ; flowers small white in axillary panicles,
dioecious, leaves ternate, segments cordate, acute,
coarsely toothed and lobed, in bloom from June to
August. A native, and a little fragrant.

C. crispa, or Bell Clematis, is a native plant of free growth
— flowers of a pink colour, in clusters, bell-shaped,
the points of the petals folding backwards — a little

CLIMBING PLANTS. 85

grant. There is also a variety having purple
flowers.

C. florida plena is a fine free flowering plant; though
generally considered a shrub, is more herbaceous
than shrubby ; the flowers are large double white ;
in growth will not exceed ten feet in one season.

Glycine frutescens, a beautiful native climbing shrub,
known in our gardens under that name, but is pro-
perly Wisteria frutescens. It has large pendulous
branches of blue leguminose (pea-like) flowers,
blooming from May to August; pinnated leaves
with nine ovate downy leaflets ; grows freely.

Glycine chinensis is given to Wisteria, and is the finest
climbing shrub of the phaseolius tribe. The flow-
ers are light blue, in long nodding many-flowered
racemose spikes, blooming from May to August,
profusely ; leaves pinnated, with eleven ovate lance-
olate silky leaflets, and is of a very rapid growth.
It is perfectly hardy, withstanding the severity of
our winters without protection.

Bignonia crucigera is an evergreen which is very desira-
ble in many situations, being likewise of luxuriant
growth. It will cover in a few years an area of
fifty feet ; flowers of an orange scarlet colour, bloom-
ing from May to August.

B. grandiflora, now given to Tecoma, has large orange-
coloured flowers, blooming from June to August,
and grows very fast. It is perfectly hardy, and a
most magnificent plant.

B. rddicans is likewise given to Tecoma, and is a native
plant. When in flower it is highly ornamental,
but it requires great attention to keep it in regular
order, being of a strong rough nature ; in bloom
from June to August.

Periplaca graeca, silk vine, is a climber of extraordinary
growth. Well established plants grow thirty or
forty feet in one season ; flowers in clusters from
May to July, of a brownish-yellow colour, and hairy-
inside ; leaves smooth, ovate, lanceolate, wood slen-
der, twining and elastic.

ffedera Helix, Irish Ivy, is a valuable evergreen for cover-
ing naked walls, or any other unsightly object. The
8

86 CLIMBING PLANTS. [April.

foliage is of a lively green, leaves from three to five
angled. There are several varieties of it, all valua-
ble for growing in confined shady situations where
no other plant will thrive.

Ampelopsis hederacea. This plant is commonly employed
for covering walls, for which the rapidity of its
growth and the largeness of the leaves render it
extremely appropriate. There are several species
of the genus, all resembling the Fine in habit and
in flower.

Jasminum officindle, garden Jasmine. This delightful
climbing shrub has been in common use all over
Europe for covering arbours from time immemorial;
its white, delicate, and lovely fragrant flowers ren-
der it a great acquisition : unfortunately, with us,
it is rather delicate for our winters, unless well pro-
tected by a south wall or other building, and even
then, when in a young state, must be protected:
but, in the south, this plant and also the yellow
Jasminum revolulum grow luxuriantly and bloom
profusely, and even J. grandiflorum is a hardy
shrub in South Carolina and Georgia.

Lonicera, or more properly Caprifolium. The Honey-
suckle. This genus of flowering odoriferous climb-
ing shrubs are principally natives of this country :
they are all equally beautiful ; but where there is
not space in our city gardens to cultivate the whole
family, it is indispensable to have C.flexvosum, the
Chinese sweet scented or evergreen ; it blooms in
May and September, and is a very rapid grower ;
C. Belgica is also a charming species ; it blooms the
whole summer, and is very odorous. Our native
C. sempervirens, or Coral Honeysuckle, is not easily
surpassed ; its profuse and brilliant scarlet flowers
render it the most attractive object in all our coun-
try gardens. C. Japonicum is also an excellent
Chinese species, with delicate orange-coloured
flowers of agreeable sweetness ; but will not bear
our winters north of the southern part of Virginia.

Passiflora, or Passion vine. There are several hardy spe-
cies for this latitude ; but the only very beautiful
one is P. incarndta, which, although it dies to the

OF PLANTING EVERGRKKN SHRUBS. 87

ground every winter, yet will, during the summer,
put forth shoots from twenty to forty feet long, all
covered with a profusion of beautiful purple flow-

There are several other climbing plants, both curious
and ornamental ; but our limits will not admit of farther
detail.

DECIDUOUS SHRUBS.

Finish planting all deciduous shrubs in the early part of
the month. These plants are generally delayed too long ;
the leaves in many instances are beginning to expand,
thereby giving a check to the ascending sap, which we may
safely assert causes the death of one-third of the plants,
when perhaps the operator or some individual more dis-
tantly concerned is blamed.

These shrubs, if properly removed and planted at the
exact starting of vegetation, pressing the earth close to
their roots when planting, (previously taking care that the
small fibres have not become dry, by exposure,) there will
not one out of fifty fail by these simple attentions. Those
that are late planted should have frequent waterings, and,
if large, firmly supported, that the wind may have no effect
in disturbing the young and tender fibrous roots.

OF PLANTING EVERGREEN SHRUBS.

Now is the season to plant-all kinds of evergreen trees
and shrubs. In most seasons, the middle of the month is
the most proper time, the weather then being mild and
moist; or if a late season, defer it to the end of the month.
When planted earlier, they will remain dormant until this
time, and their tender fibrous roots in that case frequently
perish from their liability to injury from frost or frosty
winds, being more susceptible of such injury than fibres
of deciduous plants. They now begin to vegetate, which
is the grand criterion for transplanting any plant. The
buds begin to swell, the roots to push, and if they can be

88 CARE OF CHOICE BULBS. \_rfpril.

quickly lifted and replanted, they will hardly receive a
check. At all events, care must be taken that they are not
long out of the ground and exposed to the air, which
greatly assists the success in planting. It may be observed
that evergreens in general succeed the better the smaller
they are, although we have seen plants, trees and ever-
greens successfully lifted upward of thirteen feet high,
and fifteen in diameter, and carried several miles.* By the
second year there was no appearance that such operation
had taken place. In preparing a hole for the reception of
these plants, make it larger than the roots, breaking the
bottom thereof fine, and putting in some fresh soil. Place
the plant upright in the centre, putting in the earth and
breaking it fine, and give the plant a few gentle shakes.
When the roots are more than half covered, put in a pot
or pailful of water, allowing it to subside, then cover all the
roots, give a second or third pailful, and when subsided,
the earth will be close to all the roots. Cover with more
earth, pressing all firm with the foot. Put more soil loosely
on, which will give it a finished appearance, and prevent
it from becoming dry, and not require mulching, which has
an unsightly appearance. All that the wind will have
any hurtful effect upon must be firmly supported, especially
large plants. If the weather sets in dry and hot, they
should be watered as often as necessity shall direct.

Those that are established, it will be necessary to go
over them (if not already done) to cut off" all wood killed
in winter, and also to thin them if too thick and crowded.

When the above is done, let every part of the shrub-
bery be dressed off as directed in March. Shrubs of all
kinds will now begin to look gay and lively, which may
be very much heightened or depreciated, according to the
state in which the ground and contiguous walks are kept.
Always keep in view that weeds are no objects of beauty.

CARE OF CHOICE BULBS.

Hyacinths of the earliest sorts will begin to expand and
show their colours ; of which we can boast of a few as fine

* See Mr. M'Nab's rich pamphlet treatise on removing ever-
greens, dec.

April."] CARE OF CHOICK BULBS. 89

sorts in the vicinity of Philadelphia, as in any garden of
Europe ; but even these very superior sorts, when in bloom,
are too frequently neglected, being allowed to stand without
rods, stakes, or any means of support, likewise equally ex-
posed to drenching rains and scorching suns ; and the finest
collections may be seen after heavy rains prostrate on the
ground, whereas a few hours' trouble would give them the
requisite support, thereby preserving their beauty much
longer, and giving more gratification. As soon as the
stems advance to any height, they should be supported by
wires, rods, &c., and tied slightly thereto with threads of
matting, or any other substitute ; repeat the tying as they
advance, avoid tying among the florets, because they grow
by extension, and are liable to be broken off by so doing.
The sun deteriorates the colours very much, especially the
red, blue, and yellow sorts; whereas, if they were simply
protected from the sun by an awning of thin canvas, the
colours would be preserved and the beauty protracted. If
there are stakes drove into the ground on each side of the
beds, about three feet high, with others in the centre about
eight feet, having laths or hoops from the side to the centre,
formed similar to the roof of a house, so that people may
walk or sit under it, the canvas or awning being thin to
admit of the light freely, the effect in the time of sunshine,
from the brilliancy of the colours, is peculiarly gratifying.
Where an awning is thus erected, it requires to be kept on
only from nine to three o'clock in sunshine days, and during
nights or time of rain, allowing the awning on the most
northern side tocorne close to the ground, when necessary,
to shelter them from cold cutting winds.

The properties of a good Hyacinth arc, namely — the
stem strong and erect, the florets or bells occupying one-
half of the stem, each floret suspended bv a short strong
footstalk, longest at the bottom ; the uppermost floret quite
erect, so that the whole may form a pyramid. Each floret
well filled with petals rising toward the centre, that it may
appear to the eye a little convex. Regarding colour, fancy
does not agree, and the most scrupulous cultivators differ
materially. However, the more pure and bright the finer,
or a white with a pink centre, or the centre of the petals
with a paler or deeper colour appearing striped, which is
considered to have a good effect.
8*

90 ANEMONES AND RANUNCULUS. [April.

Tulips in every respect should have the same care and
protection, never neglecting to have the beds with a smooth
clean surface, and the stems neatly tied up, although they
are not in so much danger as Hyacinths.

The characters of a good Tulip are — the stem strong,
elastic, and erect, about two feet high, the flower large and
composed of six petals, proceeding a little horizontally at
first, and then turning upward, forming a flat-bottomed cup,
rather widest at the top ; the three exterior petals should be
larger than the three interior ones, and broader at their
base ; the edges of the petals entire, free from notch or rug-
gedness; the top of each well rounded; the colour of the
flower at the bottom of the cup ought to be pure, white, or
yellow, and the rich-coloured stripes, which are the prin-
cipal ornament, should be pure, bold, regular, and distinct
on the margin, and terminate in fine points elegantly pen-
ciled. The centre of each petal should have one bold
stripe, or blotch, of rich colouring. The ground colours
that are most esteemed are white, the purer the finer ; or,
on the other hand, the dark grounds, and of course the
darker the better; but these vary in estimation according
to the prevailing taste of amateurs.

ANEMONES AND RANUNCULUS.

Moist weather and frequent showers are highly essential
to the perfecting of these flowers, and if these should fail
at this season of the year, artificial means must be used to
supply the deficiency. Take a watering-pot without the
rose, and run the water (river or rain water is best) gently
between the rows, taking care not to make holes in the
ground. When they have got a good watering at root,
take the syringe and give them a gentle sprinkling in fine
evenings, observing not to use force for fear of breaking
the flower stems. In dry weather the result of a deficiency
of water would be, that the stems and flowers of the strong-
est roots will be weak and make no progress, and many of
them will not bloom ; the foliage of a sickly, yellow appear-
ance, from which they would not recover ; and the roots,
when taken up, are of little use for farther transplanting.

A good plan in dry seasons is to cover the ground be-

Jlpril.~] AURICULAS, &c. 91

tween the rows with cow manure, which will prevent the
moisture from evaporating, and the rain or water passing
through it greatly enriches the soil and strengthens the
roots.

CHARACTER OF A FINE RANUNCULUS.

" It is indispensable for a good ranunculus to have a stem
about eight or twelve inches high, strong enough to sup-
port the flower, and quite upright. The form of the flower
should be hemispherical, not less than two inches in dia-
meter, consisting of numerous petals, gradually diminishing
in size to the centre, lying over each other, so as neither
to be too close nor too much separated, but having more of
a perpendicular than a horizontal direction, in order to dis-
play the colours with better effect. The petals should be
broad, with entire well-rounded edges, their colours dark,
clear, rich, or brilliant, either of one colour or variously
diversified, on a ground of cinerous white, primrose, yellow,
or flame colour, or diversified with elegant stripes, .spots,
or mottlings."

AURICULAS. •

Having under this head last month given ample direc-
tions for the treatment of these plants previous to flowering,
we refer to that head to avoid repetition.

CHARACTER OF A FINE AURICULA.

The pips should be large, flat, and round, with ground
colour equal on every side of the eye, which should be
quite circular, as well as the edge. The tube a bright
lemon yellow perfectly round, well filled with the anthers
or thrum, the eye round and large, the body colour black
or violet, the meal fine, the colour, in green-edged flowers,
should be a whole one, not a shaded green. The stem
strong, and sufficiently long to bear the truss above the
foliage — the truss to consist of not less than five full-blown
pips ; only one stem allowed.

CHARACTER OF A POLYANTHUS. [April.

CARNATIONS, PINKS, &c.

If any of these were omitted to be shifted last month,
or planted out according to directions therein given, let it
be done forthwith. Where they are still protected with
frames, give them plenty of air, keeping the sashes entirely
off during the day, keep the pots perfectly free from weeds,
and give the foliage frequent sprinklings with water.

Polyanthus and Primroses will be exhibiting their beau-
tiful flowers. They require the same treatment, and de-
light in moisture and a shaded situation. Do not sprinkle
them while in flower, and keep them clear of weeds or
decayed leaves, never exposing them to the sun. They
are very hardy, and, where required, may be planted in
very shady situations, for they will suffer more from the
influence of the sun's rays than from frost. Those plants
in pots in general that have been protected in frames, and
are destined for the borders, should now as soon as possible
be planted in their destined situations, having nothing to
fear from chilling winds or frosts after the middle of this
month, except in uncommon seasons. Those that are to
be kept in pots, if not repotted, do it immediately, and give
regular supplies of water.

CHARACTER OF A POLYANTHUS.

The pips large, flat, and round, with small indentures
between each division of the limb, dividing the pip into
heart-like segments edged with bright yellow ; the edge
and the eye ought to be of the same colour, the truss to
consist of not less than five full-blown pips, supported on a
strong stem, standing well above the foliage.

POLIANTHUS TUBEROSA FLORE PLENO.

This very popular bulb, generally known as Tuberose,
has been cultivated in England upwards of two centuries,
whence we no doubt have received it, and now can return
those of our production to supply their demand. The

ON THE CULTURE OF THE HEARTSEASE. 93

flowers are many and highly odoriferous, and of the purest
white, and on a flower stem from three to five feet high.
•To have them in the greatest perfection, they should be
planted in a lively hot-bed, about the first of this month, in
six inch pots filled with light rich earth, giving very little
water until they begin to grow, when they ought to be
liberally supplied with plenty of air, and about the end of
next month they may be planted in the borders, providing
a spot for them that is or has been well worked, and en-
riched with well decomposed manure. Secure their flower
stems to proper rods. Previous to planting the roots, all
the off-sets should be taken off and planted separately;
keep the crown of the bulb level with the surface of the
pot, and when they are replanted in the open ground, put
them two inches deeper.

But when the convenience of a hot-bed cannot be ob-
tained, they will succeed very well if planted about the end
of this month or first of next in the garden, in a bed of earth
prepared for their reception. Let it be dug deep, and
make the soil light and rich, by giving it a good supply of
manure two years old, well broken and incorporated with
the earth, adding a little sand where the soil is heavy. The
black earth from the woods produced from decayed" leaves
is equally as good without sand. Having the ground in
proper order, draw drills about four inches deep and
eighteen inches apart ; plant the bulbs (after divesting them
of their off-sets) nine inches apart in the row, covering the
crown of the bulb about an inch and a half. When done,
carefully rake and finish off the beds. When they shoot
up their flower stems, give them neat rods for their sup-
port. Plant the off-sets in closer rows to produce flowering
roots for next year, because they seldom flower the second
time.

ON THE CULTURE OF THE HEARTSEASE OR PANSY,
(VIOLA TRICOLOUR.)

The simplicity and striking beauty of this lovely little
flower have attracted notice from the earliest floral times, but
it is only within these few years that it has come into high
estimation as a florist's flower. Indeed, when the figures

94 HEARTSEASE OR PAXSV.

and descriptive characters of these " little gems" came first
from England to this country, we were almost induced to
believe they were exaggerated "pictures of fancy," till we
actually cultivated within these last two years in our own
parterre upwards of two inches in diameter.

They delight in a situation partially shaded from the hot
rays of the sun, either fully exposed to the morning rays
till ten o'clock, or the afternoon sun from three o'clock ; a
soil composed of four parts good loam and one part tho-
roughly rotted manure, or three parts loam and one part
decayed leaves, not less than one foot deep : the soil must
not be more elevated than the surrounding surface, as they
like a good supply of moisture. If they are to be cultivated
from seeds they should be thinly sown about the first of the
month, or about the end of August or first of September,
and very lightly covered with fine soil, giving them very
frequent waterings in dry weather. Those sown now will
bloom in July, and very profusely in the autumn ; but those
sown in the latter period will not bloom till early the follow-
ing spring. When any very esteemed variety is raised, it
should be propagated, which is very easily done, either by
layers or cuttings, and sometimes by division of the root,
but the two former methods are preferable. The best time
for laying is about the first of September : an inch or two
of the soil may be removed all round the plant, the shoots
laid down in the hollow, and covered over with light rich
compost. The shoots will root more freely if they get a
gentle twist when laying them down. The best period for
propagating by cuttings is about the middle of this month
or September. Cuttings should be chosen from young
shoots about two or three inches long ; for'when shoots are
woody or hollow they will either not strike at all or produce
unhealthy plants. A shaded but airy situation is prefera-
ble, and if the soil is of a light sandy nature, the better
success will attend the operation : the cuttings should be
firmly inserted from one to two inches deep in the ground,
and covered with a glass, or where that convenience is not
at hand, they may be shaded during the day with oiled
paper, or any similar substitutes. In preparing the cut-
tings, care ought to be taken to cut close to a joint, a rule
which should be strictly attended to in making cuttings of
every description. When they have fairly rooted and

April. *\ GLADIOLUS OR SWORD LILY. 95

taken a growth, they can be removed in cloudy, moist
weather, to their proper allotments. Seeds ought to be
carefully collected from the finer sorts, and sown as soon
thereafter as convenience will allow, as they deteriorate
by long keeping. Many hundreds of named varieties are
carefully cultivated in England. A select list sent contains
only three hundred and seyenty-four names. To attempt
a general or even brief description of them in this work
would be considered by many of our friends prolix and un-
necessary; but the following criteria of a fine Pansy has
just passed a select committee of the Pennsylvania Horti-
cultural Society:

" The chief object to be desired is symmetry of the
flower. The petals should be large, broad and flat, lying
upon each other so as to form a circle, and prevent any
thing like angles or intersections of this circular outline.
The petals should be as nearly of a size as possible, the
two top ones being the largest, but so covered with the two
side ones as not to appear disproportioned. The top petals
should not wave or bend back. The bottom petal should
be broad and two-lobed, flat, and not curving inward ; above
an inch in breadth is a good size ; the colours should be
clear, brilliant, and not changing. The eye should not be
too large, and it is accounted finest when the penciling is
so arranged as to form a dark angular spot.

" The flower stalk should be long and stiff, rather than
slender."

GLADIOLUS OR SWORD LILY.

It is now a well ascertained fact that the whole of this
beautiful family will succeed well with a treatment similar
to the tube rose, requiring to be two or three weeks earlier
planted: indeed, G. communis and its varieties are per-
fectly hardy ; but the splendid G. psittacinus, with large
yellow, red, and green flowers ; G. cardinalis, scarlet and
white; G. blandus,rose and white; G.JJorabundus, shad-
ed rose, G.formosissimus, magnificent scarlet, and several
others are worthy of the greatest care and attention; their
large spikes of showy flowers will well compensate for an
extra degree of care in preparation of soil, &c.

96 TIGER FLOWER. [April.

AMARYLLIS FORMOSISSIMA, OR JACOBEA LILY.

About the end of this or beginning of next month is the
most proper time for planting out these bulbs. This flower
is of the most beautiful and rich crimson velvet colour.
The bulb generally produces two stems, the one after the
other, about the end of May or first of June. The stem is
from nine inches to one foot high, surmounted by a single
flower, composed of six petals, three hanging down, three
erect and recurved ; the stamens droop on the .centre of
the under petals. The flower thus appears nodding on
one side of the stem, and has a most graceful and charm-
ing appearance. If planted in a bed, prepare the ground
as before directed for Tuberoses. Keep the rows one foot
asunder, and the bulbs six inches apart in the rows, cover-
ing them two inches over their crowns. This plant is now
called Spreikelia formosissima, and we think properly,
too, for its character and habit differ from Amaryllis. ^

We have not the smallest doubt, that in a few years, not
only this superb South American bulb will adorn our flower
gardens, but many of the rich bulbs of Brazil and South
America generally will yearly exhibit to us the beauty of
their colours, and the beautiful construction of their flowers
and foliage, of which we are now generally deprived, per-
haps because we have not the conveniency of a proper
hot-house for their protection during winter. But it will
be found, in many instances, that these bulbs will do per-
fectly well to be kept dry in a warm room from October to
May, when the heat of our summer is sufficient for the
perfection of their flowers, and many species will ripen
their seeds. The bulb that is known as Amaryllis Bel-
ladonna, now called Belladonna purpufdscens, is hardy.

TIGER FLOWER.

Tigridia, a genus of Mexican bulbs belonging to Mona-
delphia Tridndria, producing the most beautiful flowers of
the natural order of Irideae. T. pavonia is of the bright-
est scarlet, tinged and spotted with pure yellow. T.
conchiflora, colour rich yellow, tinged and spotted with

Jlpril.~\ WALKS. 97

bright crimson ; flower larger than the former. The colours
are very rich, and purely contrasted. The corolla is about
four inches in diameter, composed of six petals ; the outer
are reflexed, the flower, though splendid in beauty, exists
only one day ; but, to compensate for that, a plant will
produce flowers for several weeks ; and where a bed of
them can be collected, they will, bloom in profusion from
July to September. They like a light, rich, free soil, from
twelve to eighteen inches deep. Lift the bulbs in October,
and preserve them as directed in that month for Tuberoses.
Be sure that they be kept dry and secure from frost. A bed
of these should be in every garden. A writer says, " it is
the most beautiful flower that is cultivated." Plant them
about the end of this or first of next month; if in beds,
keep them six inches apart in the row, and one foot apart
from row to row.

WALKS.

The walks in general should be put in the neatest order
during this month. Little requires to be added to the ob-
servations of last month, but if these have not been exe-
cuted, fail not to have it done the first opportunity, choosing
dry weather for the operation of turning the old, or adding
new gravel to them, leveling, raking, and rolling neatly as
you proceed. Always after rain give the whole of the
gravel walks a good rolling. This being frequently done
during the early part of the season, will be a saving of
much labour and time through the summer. The walks
having a firm surface, the growth of weeds will be retarded,
and the heavy rains will not be so apt to injure them.
Where there are any pretensions to keeping these in order,
they ought to be picked of weeds and litter once a week,
and gone over with the roller at least once every two weeks
during the season.

Sweep and divest the grass walks or plats of all worm-
casts, litter, &c., cutting the edgings neatly. Mow the grass
every two or three weeks from this time to October, sweep-
ing off the grass clean each time, and give frequent rollings
to keep the surface smooth. If any require to be laid with
turf, delay it no longer. For direction, see last month. The
9

98 EVERGREEN HEDGES.

above observations on walks in general, will apply through
the season; therefore, we will not repeat this subject until
October.

EVERGREEN HEDGES.

We have previously observed, under the head Ever-
greens, that this is the best season for their replanting. We
cannot pass over the observations of this month, without
having reference to evergreen hedges, so much neglected
among us, and yet so important to the diversity of aspect,
and especially to soften a little the gloomy appearance of
our winters. There are three indigenous shrubs, and at
least one exotic, that are well adapted for the purpose, viz.,
Pinus canadensis, Hemlock-spruce ; Thuja occidentalis,
American arborvitse ; Thuja orientalis, Chinese arborvitse ;
and Juniperis virginiana, Red-cedar. Where there is to
be a hedge of any of these planted, select plants about two
feet high ; lift them carefully, preserving the roots as much
as possible. Dig a trench from one and a half to two feet
wide, and from one to one foot and a half deep. This will
admit the soil to be well broken about the roots, which
must be done in planting. Keep the plants in the centre
of the trench, mixing the shortest and the tallest, that it
may be of one height, putting the earth close about their
roots as you proceed, and make it firm with the foot ; fill
up, and water as directed for evergreens in this month. If
the season is very dry, give it frequent copious waterings.

None of them should be topped for a few seasons, except
such as are much above the others in height, keeping the
sides regular and even by clipping or shearing once a year,
either in this month or at the end of August. It is better
to keep the top (when they have got to the desired height)
pointed, than broad. The latter method retains a heavy
weight of snow, which frequently breaks down, or other-
wise deforms, that which has cost much labour to put into
-shape.

CARE OF PLANTS COMING INTO FLOWER.

BOX EDGINGS.

Where these have not been laid, this month is the proper
time. Do not delay the planting of such any later. For
ample directions, see March, under this head. Clipping
of these should be done about the middle of this month.
There will then be no danger of frosts to brown the leaves,
and the young foliage will not be expanded. To keep
these edgings in order, they must be cut once a year, and
never be allowed to get above four inches high and two
inches wide. What we consider the neatest edging is
three inches high, two inches wide at the bottom, tapering
to a thin edge, at the top. It is very unsightly to see large
bushy edgings, especially to narrow walks.

The use of edgings is to keep the soil from the gravel,
and the larger they are allowed to grow, the more inef-
fectual they become ; growing more open below as they
advance in height. The operation may be done very
expeditiously by clipping the tops level, going longitudi-
nally along with shears for the purpose, called " box
shears." Strain a line along the centre of the edgings,
cutting perpendicularly from the line to the bottom on each
side, leaving only the breadth of the line at top. Edgings
cut in this manner, every spring, will always look well,
and the trouble, comparatively, is a mere trifle.

GENERAL CARE OF PLANTS COMING INTO FLOWER.

Every part of the flower ground should be put into neat
order, giving such plants about the borders as are shooting
up their flower stems, and are tender, and in danger of
being hurt or broken by the wind, proper sticks or rods for
their support. In doing this, endeavour to conceal the
rods, &c., as much as possible, by dressing the stems and
leaves in a natural-looking manner over them. Let the
stakes be in proportion to the height and growth of the
plants. It looks very unsightly to see strong stakes to short
and weak growing plants. The tyings likewise should be
proportionate.

Examine all the beds and patches of seedling flowers

100 DAHLIAS. [May.

now coming' up, and let them be refreshed with water as
it may be necessary, and pick out the weeds as they appear.
We cannot leave this department at this season of the
year, without enforcing the benefit and beauty that will
result from keeping the weeds down during this and the
next month. Therefore strictly observe that there are
none running to seed in any part of the garden ; in fact,
they ought not to be allowed to rear their heads one day in
sight.

MAY.

As the season for planting out the Dahlia is now ap-
proaching, we will endeavour to give our readers the whole
subject of their management, so as to ensure a good bloom
of this the most fashionable and popular ornamental plant
of the present day. As very many are entirely unac-
quainted with the nature and even the habits of the plant,
a brief synopsis of its history will assist in giving a key to
its culture. The plant was first discovered by Humboldt,
in Mexico, growing in sandy plains, ihree thousand feet
above the level of the sea. The date is not precisely
known, but supposed to be about 1785-6. Indisputable
authority, however, speaks of its being introduced into
England in 1789; but was lost and again introduced in
1803, from Madrid, by Lady Holland ; from which period
till 1830, it had but little notice in cultivation. Indeed it
seems to have been reserved for the intelligent growers of
the last few years to bring it into general notice ; and if we
take a retrospective view of the rapid progress of Dahlia
culture within these last five years, we will be led to ex-
claim, "Where will all this terminate?" but time alone can
solve the question ; at present it is impossible to come to
any satisfactory conclusions. Only a few years ago, and
who would have conceived the idea of having tipped,
striped, and spotted Dahlias of almost every hue and colour;
and although historical writers on the genus alluded to the
improbability of a blue flower ever being produced, yet it
is not unreasonable to imagine that ere long we will have

PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGS. 101

flowers beautifully and distinctly striped with black and
white, and even combining the gaudy colours of the tulip,
or the choicest hues of the carnation ; perhaps the criteria
of character may change to those of huge globular forms or
balls — nay, even the odour of the Rose or the Jasmine may
be imparted, and what then? Only let amateurs and cul-
tivators persevere with the spirit they have done during
the last few years, and we think all we have advanced wiH
be realized.

Propagation. This operation may be performed in vari-
ous ways, either by division of the root, by cutting of the
young shoots, or by grafting. For general planting, divi-
sion of the root will be sufficient ; about the first of the
month the old root, entire, should be planted in some warm
and sheltered spot of the garden, covering it with sand,
vegetable mould, or any light soil ; in about two weeks the
eyes or young shoots will have sprouted : then it will be
properly seen how they can be most carefully divided ; the
root should be carefully cut into as many pieces as there
are eyes or sprouts, leaving only one tuber to each, when
they can be planted into the situation appropriated for their
blooming.

Propagation by Cuttings. Prepare a hot-bed in March,
as therein described, and place a frame and lights of the
required size upon it, scatter over the surface of the bed
four or five inches of sand, old bark, or any light soil ; after
four or five days, the fresh steam will have subsided, when
the roots may be laid thereon, covering them (but not over
the crowns) with light sandy soil ; but where large pots can
be obtained, I prefer planting them in the pots; by this
means the plants are kept distinct, and can be taken out
at any time and examined. They should be frequently
sprinkled with water that is partially warm; and if, after
they are thus placed in the bed, a rank and dense steam
should arise, the lights should be slightly raised both night
and day, till it subsides ; and if the nights are cold, cover
the lights with mats or shutters. This gentle bottom heat
will speedily induce the eyes to grow, and when the shoots
have attained the height of three or four inches, they
should be cut off close to the base, which makes the best
plant. After the cuttings are taken off, pot them singly
into v«ry small pots filled with light «aady loam, containing
9*

102 BV GRAFTING — SOIL. [May.

a good portion of black earth from the woods, and placed
in another moderate hot-bed and give a gentle supply of
water. Particular care must be paid to shading them from
the violent rays of the sun, for if they are once exposed,
they seldom recover : in this state they should continue till
they have formed their roots, which, in a temperature of
from sixty to seventy degrees, will be in from two to three
weeks. Where a great stock of any particular sort is
wanted, the cuttings should be taken off just below a joint,
leaving two or three eyes at the base of the shoot, which
will again speedily produce new shoots, that can be again
removed in a similar manner.

When the plants are rooted, they may then be consid-
ered established, and all that is necessary is, to shift them
into larger pots as they require ; and gradually inure them
to a lower temperature, till they can endure the open air,
which will not be before the middle of May.

Propagation by Grafting. Where only a few plants
are wanted, this is a very successful method, as an opera-
tion can be conducted in the office or parlour window. The
cutting intended for the graft should have about three joints ;
when obtained, select a good tuber without eyes from any
common sort, and with a sharp knife cut a slice from the
upper part of the root downward about two inches in length,
and about half an inch in depth, and then cut it off horizon-
tally, leaving a ledge whereon to rest the graft ; next cut
the graft sloping to fit, and cut it so that an eye or joint may
be at the bottom of it to rest on the aforesaid ledge. After
the graft has been firmly tied, a piece of clay should be
put round it, pot the root in fine soil, in a pot that will bury
the graft half way in the mould, and cover it with a glass,
(a large tumbler will do,) and in two weeks it will have
taken root, the glass may then be removed, and the plant
gradually inured to the open air.

Soil. As far as my observations enable me to judge,
the soil best adapted for the Dahlia is a sandy loam, not
retentive of moisture, and not too rich, as they will grow to
leaves and branches, producing few flowers, and even then
imperfect : not too poor, as in such they will be very indif-
ferent, meagre in size and general appearance. Where
soils are rich and heavy, a portion of sand or gravel should
be mixed in the soil where they are planted : but if poor,

May.'] ARRANGEMENT. 103

incorporate with the sand well decomposed manure ; and
when the plants are planted, a stick in proportion to the
plant should be put with it, and at least eighteen inches in
the ground, and not less than two inches in diameter, to
which they must be carefully tied as they grow, never
allowing more than one stem to each plant ; and the side
branches should be cut off from one to three feet from the
ground, according to the height of the plant. Oakley's
Surprise, the most favourite crimson Dahlia, tipped with
white, comes invariably true to its character in sandy soil,
whereas, in rich heavy soil, it is frequently only crimson.
The worst of all soils for the Dahlia, is a rich loam reten-
tive of moisture ; in such they grow to wood and foliage,
producing few and very imperfect flowers.

The best disposition or arrangement in planting the
Dahlia, I think, is in groups; each group should be com-
posed of a different section of colour : this affords a close
comparison, and gives greater diversity of landscape, than
combining the colours; the tallest growing sorts should be
carefully planted in the centre or at the back of each group.
The roots should be planted from three to four feet from
each other every way. But where they are planted in
rows along walks or avenues, two or three feet will be a
sufficient distance from plant to plant. Individual plants
look extremely well if they are of a dwarf habit. To have
a continued succession of bloom, there should be two plant-
ings; the first about the fifteenth of the month, and the
latest about the end of June ; it is the June planting that
generally produces the finest flowers ; this fact (though
lately discovered) is now well understood by some cultiva-
tors, and is easily accounted for. When plants are forced
and planted early, they are in a flowering state much
earlier, to be sure, but they are overtaken with, perhaps, a
hot, dry summer, which "blights" the buds, and are more
subject to the disease called " curl ;" the young leaves, as
they expand, are perforated with numerous holes ; the
margins become brownish, as if burnt ; they then become
curled, placid, and the whole plant unhealthy and dwarfish.
The principal stem ceases to grow, and numerous suckers
and stems arise from below, forming a dense bush. The
flowers of such plant, as might be expected, are small and
irregular ; and however excellent the variety may be, they

104 ARRANGEMENT. [Mil/.

yield nothing but disappointment to the anxiously expect-
ant cultivator. This disease is caused by an insect, Cymix
Chloroterus, or green bug. It inhabits the extremities of
the Dahlia, and grows and feeds on the under surface of
the young leaves, and in its destruction is aided by our
frequently hot and arid months of July and August.
Hence, the reason that the late planting gives most satis-
faction, they are in these months in a rapid growing state,
and if attacked outgrow the effects, and push at once into
bloom in the more moist and cooling month of September.
The only remedy that is known for the above evil is, to
look over the plants cautiously in the morning when the
first attacks are perceptible, and pick off the insect ; it has
to be approached with caution, as it instinctively throws
itself down among the leaves if disturbed ; -and if it escapes,
it again climbs up, and commences its depredations. It is
admitted that there are exceeding one thousand distinct
named varieties now in cultivation, and it may be desirable
to some that a select list of the choicest named sorts now in
cultivation should be given : but such is the almost endless
multiplicity of kinds, and such the numerous additions
every year made, that in a few years those I may mention
now as being fine, will then most probably be considered
wholly useless. However, for immediate profit and bene-
fit, I recommend the following:

PURE WHITE.

Antagonist, Lewisham Rival,

Cheltenham dueen, Miss Percival,

Lady Langston, Pride of Sussex,

White Defiance, Virgin Queen.

WHITE OR BLUSH, SHADED OR EDGED WITH PINK
OR RED.

Beauty of Sussex, Countess of Pembroke,

Exquisite, Beauty of Wakefield,

Emma Noke, Favourite,

Lady Antrobus, Lady St. Maur,

Mrs. Rushton, Diana,

Phenomenon, Queen of the Isles.

May.~\ ARRANGEMENT. 105

LILAC.

Formosa, Hon. Miss Abbot,

Lady Harland, Lady Middleton,

Mrs. Jones, Mrs. Shelley,

Princess Royal, Queen of Beauties.

ROSE OR PINK.

Hero of Tippecanoe, Hope,

Kingscote Rival, Queen, (WidnalFs,)

Rose Unique, Beauty of Kent.

PURE YELLOW.

Apollo, Argo,

Ophir, Prince of Wales,

Yellow Victory, Winterton Rival.

YELLOW OR, BUFF, STRIPED OR TIPPED WITH RED.

Bloomsbury, buff, Unique,

Desdemona, Harlequin,

Princess Royal, (Hudson,) Pontiac.

ORANGE.
Aurantia, Orange Superb.

RED OR ROSY RED.

Perfection, (McKenzie's,) Prince Albert,

Sir W. Middleton, Duchess of Richmond.

10(5

ARRANGEMENT.

Bloomsbury, (Lee's),

Eclipse,

Vivid.

SCARLET.

Fire King,
Tournament,

Caleb Cope,
Marechal Soult,
Thomas Clarkson,

ROSY CRIMSON.

Hero of the West,
Sir Fred. Johnson,
Henry Clay, (Schmitz.)

Bedford Surprise,
Roderick,
Springfield Rival,

CRIMSON.

Ne plus ultra,
Thomas C. Percival,
Rival Sussex.

General Houston,
Pickwick,

PURPLE.

Sultan,

Violet Perfection.

DARK MAROON AND VERY DARK.

Admiral Stopford,

Conqueror,

Hero of Stonehenge,

Standard of Perfection,

Competitor,
Essex Triumph,
Horace Binney,
Washington Irving.

CRIMSON PERMANENTLY TIPPED WITH WHITE.
Oakley's Surprise, Eveque de Tournay.

STRIPED.
Striata formosissima, Formosa.

Ma,y.~] CHARACTER OF A FINE DAHLIA. 1G7

The above are the choicest in cultivation at the present
time, and for farther description in regard to colour, height
and price, we beg to refer our readers to the periodical
catalogues of our respectable nurserymen that are issued
every spring, and contain many other sorts of eminence ;
and not a few equally desirable with the above, though the
descriptions of some that are annually received from Eng-
land are more tempting than the article : whether there are
some sorts that do produce more perfect and beautiful flow-
ers in their humid climate than they do when transferred
to ours, we cannot practically decide, but presume that it
is the fact, for we are confident, and every season does
more fully confirm it, that the seedlings grown in this coun-
try from seed sowed here do grow better, and flower finer,
than the generality of those imported ; and, to prevent us
adopting inferior sorts, and giving them dashing names,
we subjoin the following rules for judging:

CHARACTER OF A FINE DAHLIA.

" The best judges distinguish Dahlias by the three cri-
teria of form, colour and size.

"1. Form. — The front view of the blossom should be
perfectly circular, without notches or inequalities, caused by
the petals being pointed, and not as they should be, round-
ed, smooth at the edges, and slightly concave, but not so
much as to show any of the back. One of the most per-
fect flowers, in this respect, is the Springfield Rival. When
the petals are pointed, notched, fringed, piped, quilled, con-
cave, convex, or flat, the perfectness of the circle is broken,
and one indispensable beauty in the eye of the florist is
deficient.

"When the eye or disc is shown in the full-blown flower,
it is also a striking defect.

"The side view of a first rate flower should be that of a
perfect hemisphere.

"There is, perhaps, no example of this perfection of form
without some slight deficiency. The Countess of Liver-
pool is one of the nearest to a perfect flower in this respect.

" 2. Colour.— This is looked upon by florists as an infe-

108 ANNUALS, HARDY AND TENDER. \_May.

rior consideration to form, though it is usually the first to
attract the notice of common observers.

" In flowers of one colour, or selfs, the colour ought to be
bright and distinct, without any breaking or blotching.
When there are stripes, mottlings, shadings, or edgings,
these should be clear and uniformly marked, the colours
distinct without clouding or running.

" 3. Size. — Although large flowers with superior form
and clear distinct colours are esteemed superior to small
flowers with the same properties, yet size alone is looked
upon by florists as nothing when form and colour are de-
fective."

Particular care should be taken with seeds, especially
such as are saved from fine sorts. If they are sown about
the first of April, on a gentle hot-bed, or in a green-house
in plots, filled with light rich earth, covering the seeds
about three-eighths of an inch, and when they have made
leaves, pot them off singly into small pots, till time for
planting out, or where a quantity is grown, three plants
may be put into one pot, and thus planted, and when they
bloom the bad can be pulled up, leaving those of good cha-
racter to stand for farther trial : none should be kept but
such as come up to the above rules; and if they do not do
so the first year, there is little hope of their being more
perfect the second.

ANNUALS, HARDY AND TENDER.

By the first of the month finish sowing all hardy An-
nuals and Biennials ; and about the middle of the month
all those that are tropical. The weather being now warm,
they will vegetate in a few days or weeks. Attend to thin-
ning of those that are too thick, giving gentle waterings to
such as are weak in dry weather. Those that have been
protected in frames should be fully exposed therein night
and day; take the first opportunity of damp cloudy days
to have them transplanted into the borders or beds, lifting
them out of the frame with as much earth as will adhere
to their roots.

TUBEROSES AND AMARYLLIS. 109

CARE OF HYACINTHS, TULIPS, &c.

For the treatment of these, while in bloom, see last month.
The best time to take them out of the ground, is about five
weeks after they are done flowering, or when the stem ap-
pears what may be termed half decayed. The best method
to dry them is to place the roots in rows, with bulb to bulb,
the stems lying north and south, or east and west. Give the
bulbs a very thin covering of earth, merely to exclude the
sun, so that they may not dry too rapidly, being thereby
liable to become soft. When they have thoroughly dried in
this situation, which will be in eight or ten days in dry wea-
ther, (and if it rains cover them with boards,) take them to
an airy dry loft or shade, clearing off the fibres or stems,
and in a few weeks put them in close drawers, or cover
them with sand perfectly dry, until the time of planting, for
which see October.

It is not advisable to allow any of the bulbs of. either
Hyacinths or Tulips to seed, as it retards their ripening
and weakens the root, except where there are a few desired
for new varieties. The small off-sets must be carefully
kept in dry sand, or immediately planted.

ANEMONES AND RANUNCULUS.

These, while in bloom, should be carefully shaded from
the sun by hoops and thin canvas, or an erect temporary
awning ; and as soon as they are done flowering, they must
be fully exposed and the waterings given up.

TUBEROSES AND AMARYLLIS,

That are not planted, should now be done. For full
directions, see last month. In many seasons, any time
before the twelfth is quite soon enough ; but nothing ought
to be delayed when the season will permit it to be done.
It is necessary to have them properly labeled.

10

110 ^ GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

AURICULAS, POLYANTHUS, AND PRIMROSES,

Will now be done flowering, but still must be carefully
kept in a cool, shady situation, and all decayed leaves cut
off as soon as they appear. Examine them carefully and
frequently, in case slugs of any description be preying
upon them. A dusting of hot lime will kill them, or they
may be otherwise destroyed. Some have recommended to
repot and slip those plants when done flowering, "or they
will contract a destructive disease;" which disease is a loss
of verdure, and is induced by too much heat and drought,
and a few other causes from inattention ; but if attended to
as above, until September, when they should be fresh-
potted, they will have time to be sufficiently established
before winter, which is the most judicious time to take off
slips, for two reasons, namely, they do not want so much
nursing through the most precarious season of the year
(summer) for these plants, and they begin to grow, and will
root afresh sooner.

DOUBLE WALL-FLOWERS.

As these are very seldom grown from seed, and are
semi-biennials, art has to be used to preserve or renew
them. About the end of this month, take shoots of this
year about three inches long, cutting them carefully off,
and smoothing the cut end with a sharp knife : from this cut
the lower leaves off about one inch and a half, and then put
it in the ground ; choose a very shady spot, mixing the soil
with a little sand and earth, or decayed leaves. Sprinkle
them three times a day until they have taken root, which
will be in a few weeks. Keep the cuttings about four
inches apart.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

We do not consider that it is essential every month to
repeat the necessity of tying up plants, cutting down
weeds, raking, &c., with many other similar observations.

June and July r\ AUTUMN FLOWERING BULBS. Ill

We have already been full on these subjects, and expect
these to be remembered through the season. Particular
care, however, is required to carnations, pinks, or any
plants that have heavy heads and slender stems. If car-
nations are desired to flower strongly, cut off all the buds
except three, leaving the uppermost and any other two of
the largest. All climbing plants should have timely sup-
port, and tied securely^very week while they are growing.

JUNE AND JUlit.

HOLLAND BULBS.

THE lifting of these will be general in June^ For direc-
tions, see May. It is not advisable to take up Jonquils,
Fritilldria, Crocus, and Iris, oftener than every alternate
year. Jonquils may stand three years. Anemones and
Ranunculus should be carefully lifted after their leaves
begin to fade. Do not expose them to the sun, but cover
slightly with earth or sand until they are perfectly dry,
when they may be sifted out of the earth, and put into
drawers carefully labeled. Some recommend to soak these
roots in soap-suds, to destroy a worm with which they are
frequently attacked. We know not how far this may be
carried, nor the good or bad effects, never having prac-
tised it.

AUTUMN FLOWERING BULBS.

These are Amaryllis lutea, now called Sternbtrgia
liitea; A. Belladonna, now Belladonna purpurascens ;
Crocus satwus, C. Pallasii, C. serotinus, and C. nudiflorus,
and all the species of Colchicum, with species of several
other genera not introduced into the country. They should
all be lifted as soon as the foliage is decayed, and kept only
a few weeks out of the ground, and then again replanted

112 CARNATIONS AND PINKS. [June and July.

in fresh soil. The economy of the genus Colchicum in
regard to its bulbs, flowers, and seeds, is altogether singu-
lar, and may be termed an anomaly of nature. In pro-
ducing the new bulbs or off-sets, in a very curious manner
the old one perishes. The flowers, which arise with long
slender tubes from the root, die off in October, without
leaving any external appearance of seeds. These lie
buried all the winter within the bulb ; in spring they throw
•up a fruit stalk, and are ripe about the first of June. How
beautiful and admirable is this provision! The plant
blooming so late in the year, would not have time to ma-
ture its seeds before winter ; and is, therefore, so contrived
that it may be performed out of the reach of the usual
effects of frost, and they are brought above the surface
when perfected, and at a proper season for sowing.

CARNATIONS AND PINKS.

In order to make the former flower well, if the weather
is dry, give them frequent waterings at the root, and tie
them up neatly to their rods. The criterion of a fine Car-
nation is — The stem strong and straight, from thirty to
forty inches high, the corolla three inches in diameter, con-
sisting of large, round, well formed petals, but not so many
as to crowd it, nor so few as to make it appear thin or
empty ; the outside petals should rise above the calyx about
half an inch, and then turn off in a horizontal direction, to
support the interior petals, they forming nearly a hemi-
spherjcal corolla. The interior petals should decrease in
size toward the centre, all regularly disposed on every
side ; they should have a small degree of concavity at the
lamina or broad end, the edges perfectly entire. The calyx
above one inch in length, with strong broad points in a
close and circular body. The colours must be perfectly
distinct, disposed in regular long stripes, broadest at the
edge of the lamina, and gradually becoming narrower as
they approach the unguis or base of the petal, there termi-
nating in a fine point. Those that contain two colours
upon a white ground are esteemed the finest.

The, criterion of a double pink.— The stem about twelve
inches, the calyx smaller, but similar to a carnation ; the

June and July.'] OF XAYING CARNATIONS, &c. 113

flower two inches and a half in diameter; petals rose
edges ; colour white and pure purple, or rich crimson ; the
nearer it approaches to black the more is it esteemed; pro-
portions equal as in carnation. Those that are very taste-
ful with these flowers are attentive to the manner of their
opening. Where the calyx is deficient in regular expan-
sion, to display the petals ; that is, where there is a tend-
ency to burst open on one side more than on the other, the
opposite side in two or three different indentations should
be slit a little at several times with the point of a small
sharp knife, taking care not to cut the petals, and about the
centre of the calyx tie a thread three or four times round to
prevent any further irregularity. Some florists and con-
noisseurs place cards on them. This is done when the calyx
is small. Take a piece of thin pasteboard, about the size of
a dollar, cut a small aperture in its centre to admit the bud
to pass through. When on, tie it tight to the rod, to pre-
vent the wind from.blowing it about ; and when the flower
is expanded, draw up the card to about the middle of the
calyx, and spread the petals one over the other regularly
upon it. When these plants are in flower, their beauty
may be prolonged by giving them a little shade from the
mid-day sun by an awning of any simple description.
Where they are in pots, they can be removed to a cool
shady situation (but not directly under trees).

OF LAYING CARNATIONS AND PINKS.

This is a necessary and yearly operation to keep a sup-
ply of plants, and likewise to have them always in perfec-
tion. As the process of laying, though simple, may not
be known to all who are desirous of cultivating these
plants, we will give an outline of the mode of operation.
Provide first a quantity of small hooked twigs, (pieces of
Asparagus stems are very suitable,) about three inches
long, for pegging the layers down in the earth. Select
the outward, strongest and lowest shoots that are round the
plant; trim ofFa few of the under leaves, and shorten the
top ones even with the knife, and then applying it at a
joint about the middle of the under side of the shoot, cut
about half through in a slanting direction, making an up-
10*

114 or BUDDING, &u. [June and July.

ward slit toward the next joint, near an inch in extent ; and
loosening the earth, make a small oblong cavity one or two
inches deep, putting a little fresh light earth therein. Lay
the stem part where the slit is made into the earth, keep-
ing the cut part open, and the head of the layer upright
one or two inches out of the earth ; and in that position
peg down the layer with one of the hooked twigs, and
cover the inserted part to the depth of one inch with some
of the fresh earth, pressing it gently down. In this man-
ner proceed to lay all the proper shoots of each plant.
Keep the earth a little full around the plant, to retain
longer the water that may be applied. Give immediately
a moderate watering, with a rose watering-pot, and in dry
weather give light waterings every evening. Choose a
cloudy day for the above operation. In about two months
they will be well rooted.

OF BUDDING OR INOCULATION OF ROSES.

According to what we have previously hinted in regard
to having roses as standards,* where such are desired, the
month of July or August is a proper time for the opera-
tion of budding. The kinds to be taken for stocks should
be of a strong free growth : such as Maiden's blush, Dutch
tree, JR. villosa, JR. canina, and frequently the French Eg-
lantine are taken. Be provided with a proper budding
knife, which has a sharp, thin blade, adapted to prepare
the bud, with a tapering ivory haft, made thin at the end,
for raising the bark of the stock. For tyings, use bass
strings from Russia mats, which should be soaked in water
to make them more pliable. The height of the stock or
stem at which the bud is to be inserted, is to be determined
by the intended destination of the tree (as it may be pro-
perly called). Choose a smooth part of the stem, from one
to three years old. Having marked the place, prune away
all the lateral shoots about and underneath it. With the
knife directed horizontally, make an incision about half an
inch long in the bark of the stock, cutting to the wood, but
not deeper ; then applying the point of the knife to the
middle of this line, make a perpendicular incision under
the first, extending from it between one and two inches.

June and July.~] OF BUDDING, &c. 115

Having a healthy shoot of the growth of this year pro-
vided of the kind that is desired, begin at the lower end
of this shoot, cut away all the leaves, leaving the footstalk
of each. Being fixed on a promising bud, insert the knife
about half an inch above the eye, slanting it downward,
and about half through the shoot. Draw it out about an
inch below the eye, so as to bring away the bud unimpaired
with the bark, and part of the wood adhering to it; the
wood now must be carefully detached from the bark. To
do this, insert the point of the knife between the bark and
wood at one end, and, holding the bark tenderly, strip off
the woody part, which will readily part from the bark, if
the shoot from which the piece is taken has been properly
imbued with sap.* Look at the inner rind of the sepa-
rated bark, to see if that be entire : if there be a hole in it,
the eye of the bud has been pulled away with the wood,
rendering the bud useless, which throw away ; if there be
no hole, return to the stock, and with the haft of the knife
gently raise the bark on each side of the perpendicular
incision, opening the lips wide enough to admit the pre-
pared slip with the eye. If the slip is longer than the
upright incision in the stock, reduce the largest end. Stock
and bud being ready, keep the latter in its natural position ;
introduce it between the bark and wood of the stock, push-
ing it gently downward until it reaches the bottom of the
perpendicular incision. Let the eye of the bud project
through the centre of the lips ; lay the slip with the bud
as smooth as possible, and press down the raised bark of
the stock. The bud being deposited, bind that part of the
stock moderately tight with bass, beginning a little below
the incision, proceeding upward so as to keep the eye un-
covered, finishing above the incision. In a month after
the operation, examine whether the bud has united with
the stock. If it has succeeded, the bud will be full and
fresh ; if not, it will be brown and contracted. When it
has taken, untie the bandage, that the bud may swell, and
in a few days afterwards cut the head of the stock off'about

* We once budded three eyes of the white moss rose, after they
had, by mistake, been carried in the pocket of a coat three days.
The shoot was soaked six hours in water, and two of the buds
grew. From this we infer that shoots, if properly wrapped up,
may be carried very great distances, and grow successfully.

•

116 EVERGREEN HEDGES. [JlugltSt.

six inches above the inoculation, and prevent all shoots
from growing by pinching them off. This will forward the
bud, which will push and ripen wood this season ; but it
must be carefully tied as it grows to the remaining head of
the stock. Some do not head down the stock until the fol-
lowing spring, thereby not encouraging the bud to grow,
which, if winter sets in early, is the safest method.

OF WATERING.

If the season be dry, look over the lately planted shrubs,
and give them frequent copious waterings ; and a few of
the finest annuals that are wanted to flower perfectly
should be attended to. We do confess that we used to be
advocates for giving plenty of water to the Dahlia, but the
severe drought of 1838 put our science to the test, and the
result was, that of about one hundred plants of our most
choice kinds, which we regularly watered three times a
week, for nine weeks, during which period we had not a
drop of rain, the plants grew luxuriantly, but many of
them never produced a perfect bloom ; and those that had
no attention whatever paid to them, except a little manure
or litter laid on the surface over the roots, flowered almost
as well as in our more moist seasons. Hence we infer that
an occasional watering may be of service, but continued and
repeated artificial waterings are injurious.

AUGUST.

EVERGREEN HEDGES.

THESE always make two growths in the season, and the
best time to perform the operation of clipping or dressing
them is before the plants begin their second growth.
Choose, if possible, dull and cloudy days, as in such wea-
ther they will not be so liable to get brown or bruised by

JlugitSt.~] BULBOUS ROOTS. 1 17

shearing. The general practice in forming these is to
have the sides even and the top level, forming a right angle
on each side. However neat in appearance this may be
considered, it certainly is stiff and formal. We never ap-
prove of clipping where it can be avoided, and, when
adopted, nature ought to be imitated. Therefore, have all
hedges and edgings tapering toward the top.

CARNATIONS AND PINKS,

If laid about the end of June, and have been properly
attended, will, by the end of this month, be well rotted and
fit for transplanting. Clear away the earth lightly, and
cut them clean off from the parent plant, nearer the stool
than the original slit. Raise them neatly out of the earth,
with as many of the root-fibres as possible ; cut off the
naked part of the stem close to the fibrous roots, and trim
away the strangling leaves. Plant the finest sorts in four-
inch pots, and those more common, three plants in five-inch
pots, in the form of a triangle, which can be separated in
spring to plant in the garden. Any of the principal stools
should be (if in the ground) lifted and put into seven-inch
pots to be preserved : the others may be allowed to stand
through the winter, covering them with a few dry leaves.
Keep them in the shade a few weeks, when they may be
fully exposed. Give gentle and frequent sprinklings of
water until they have taken fresh root ; or, if in want of
pots, mark out a bed that can be covered with a frame, pre-
paring the soil therein properly. Plant them from four to
six inches apart. .Shade them from the sun until they
begin to grow, giving sprinklings of water over the foliage
every evening.

BULBOUS ROOTS.

Look over the bulbs that are out of the ground, and exa-
mine those that require planting. Of Fritillaria there are
about twenty species, but few of them generally cultivated,
except F, imperialis, Crown Imperial, and F. persica. Of
the former there are many very splendid varieties, such as

118 SOWING SEEDS OF BULBOUS ROOTS. [August.

Crown upon crown, Lutea Maxima, Striped leaved, Double
flowered, &c. These will require planting, and ought not
to be lifted oftener than every third year. They require a
deep, rich, loamy soil, and, if in beds, plant them from five
to seven inches deep, and one foot apart. They will grow
under the shade of trees, or in any situation where the soil
is adapted for them. No imbricated or scaly bulb ought to
be retained long out of the ground. When any of these
are lifted, and the young bulbs taken off, they should be
planted at once. See particularly, on bulbous roots in
general, next month.

SOWING SEEDS OF BULBOUS ROOTS.

Where any seeds of these are saved, with the intention
of sowing, let it be done this month. Procure boxes about
seven inches deep, and, in size, proportioned to the quan-
tity to be sown. Put five inches of light sandy soil in the
box, level it smoothly, and sow the seeds separately and
thickly; cover with half an inch of light sandy loam, with
a portion of earth from the woods. Keep the box or boxes
in a sheltered situation, giving frequent sprinklings of
water, to keep the earth damp, which must be protected
with a frame, or covered with leaves during winter. The
plants will appear in the spring, and must be watered and
kept in the shade : when the leaves decay in June, put one
inch more soil upon them, and the second year they can
be planted with the small off-sets in the garden, and treated
as other bulbs. They must be carefully marked every
year. Tulips require several years of trial before their
qualities are known ; and a poor soil is best suited to pro-
duce their characters after the first bloom.

September,] PREPARE BEDS, &c. 1 19 ••

SEPTEMBER.

OF DAHLIAS.

SEE that all these plants are supported with proper
stakes, rods, &c., that the wind may have no effect in
breaking down or otherwise destroying the flower stems.
Strictly observe their respective heights and colours, that
they may be duly disposed and interspersed next year, if
not done so this. Attend particularly to the merits of those
grown from seed.

GENERAL CARE OF PLANTS IN POTS.

All the flowers that are in pots, and intended to be kept
in frames during winter should have a top-dressing and a
general preparation for their winter quarters, by tying up,
&c. The carnation and pink layers that were lifted and
potted last month, must be brought from the shade as soon
as they begin to grow, and those that are not lifted, have
them done forthwith, that they may be rooted afresh before
the frost sets in. All Wall-flowers and Stocks should be
lifted about the end of this month, and planted in five to
seven inch pots, and treated as directed for carnation layers
last month, until they begin to grow, when they must be
fully exposed.

PREPARE BEDS AND BORDERS FOR BULBOUS ROOTS.

Bulbous roots of every character delight in deep free
soil; consequently, wherever they are desired to be planted,
due attention must be paid to put the soil in proper order,
to have them in perfection. Where there is a quantity
intended to be planted, to have them in beds is the general
and preferable method. These ought to be dug from
eighteen inches to two feet deep, at the bottom of which
place three or four inches of decayed manure. Where

130 SOWING AND SAVING SEED. [ September.

the soil is poor it should be enriched with well decomposed
manure^and earth from the woods, incorporating both well
with the soil, breaking it all fine. This being done, allow
it to stand until the middle of next month, which see for
farther directions.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

Tie up carefully all the Chrysanthemums, Tuberoses,
&c. Clear away the stems or haulm of any decayed
annuals or herbaceous plants, that nothing unsightly may
appear. Propagate the Pansy by layers, &c. See page
94.

SOWING AND SAVING SEEDS.

About the end of this month or beginning of next is an
advisable period to sow seed of Delphinium Jljdtis flore
pleno, or Double Rocket Larkspur. This plant does not
flower in perfection unless sown in autumn, and grown a
little above ground before winter; when a few leaves can
be lightly thrown among them, but not to cover them en-
tirely, or a few branches thickly laid on will answer as
well. There are several other annuals that bloom more
early and much finer by being sown about this period :
such as Gilia, Coreopsis, Centaurea, Cldrkia, Collinsia,
&c. Be attentive in collecting and saving all kinds of
seeds, and have them correctly named, with the year in
which they were grown.

The finer kinds of Pansy seeds that may have been col-
lected during the season, should now be sown in a rich,
free, loamy soil, and in a situation where they can be
covered during winter with a temporary frame of boards :
although they are perfectly hardy, yet they will bloom ear-
lier and more superb in the spring by having a slight pro-
tection.

October.'] OF PLANTING, &c. 121

OCTOBER.

OF PLANTING VARIOUS BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS
ROOTS. '

FROM the first of October to the middle of November
is the best period for a general planting of bulbs, corns,
and tubers, which,, if the ground has been prepared, as
formerly directed, will now be in readiness. We will
give the names and descriptions of a few of the leading
sorts.

Jinemone hortetisis. The cultivation of this tuber has
been attended with less satisfaction than any other floral
plant that has been introduced into this country. The
general failure may, in part, be attributed to the very infe-
rior roots annually sent from Holland, which rarely arrive
in good order, and those that do grow, are very discourag-
ing, never making a tuber sufficient for another year's
planting. Several hundred varieties are cultivated in
England with great care and complete success. They are
planted in a deep rich soil, using a considerable portion of
cow manure and decomposed leaves, covering the crowns
of the roots about two inches. The tubes are flat, but the
eye from whence the flower-stem arises is apparent on one
of th.e sides, which must be laid uppermost. During the
severity of winter, they should be protected by a frame,
and have a sprinkling of very dry leaves strewn among
them.

Crocits. There are upwards of one hundred varieties
of this vernal flower in cultivation, attended with universal
success. They delight in rich soils, and may either be
planted in beds or rows, at least two inches deep, and six
inches from row to row — they seldom require removal ;
every three or four years will be sufficient. They can be
purchased at from seventy-five cents to two dollars per
hundred, according to quality. When they are done
blooming, the foliage should riot be removed till perfectly
decayed.

Fritillaria, or Crown Imperial. See last month.
11

122 JONQUILS — LILIUM. [October.

Hyacinths. The ground that was prepared for these
last month, should all be divided into beds four feet wide,
leaving between each alleys of twenty inches. Skim off
four or five inches of the surface of the former into the lat-
ter, level the bed smoothly with the rake, and mark it off
in rows eight inches apart. Plant the roots in the row
eight inches asunder. Thus they will be in squares, and
by planting the different colours, alternately, the bed will
be beautifully diversified. Cover each bulb with sand,
when it can be procured. Put about four inches of earth
over the crowns, which will make the beds from two to
three inches higher than the alleys. The beds, before and
after planting, should be gently rounded from the middle
to each side, to let the rain pass off. Finish all by raking
evenly, straighten the edgings with the line, and clear out
the alleys or pathways.

We have grown Hyacinths in great perfection — when,
in addition to the above, we covered them with two to three
inches of cow manure. The Dutch florists name nearly
two thousand varieties of this flower, and have large fields
devoted to their culture. When the double varieties were
first brought into notice, they sold at from one to two thou-
sand guilders a root, (about from four to eight hundred
dollars.) The finer kinds can be purchased at from two
to four dollars per dozen.

Iris, or Fleur de luce. The English and Parisian irises
are coming into repute as showy garden flowers. They will
grow in any well prepared soil, and require to be planted
in the same manner as the tulip.

Jonquils. Double and single. Plant these in the same
soil as Tulips, six inches apart, and cover three inches
deep. They do not flower so well the first year as in the
second and third, therefore should only be lifted every third
year.

Lilium. The family of Lilies are all splendid, very inte-
resting, and easy of culture, requiring merely a good deep
loamy soil — no wise inclined to moisture. They are all
hardy, except L. japonicum and L. longi/lorum, which
we lift in November, and again plant them about the first
of March, keeping them through the winter in dry sand,
in a cellar free from frost. The hardy kinds, deserving
most attention, are L. Cdndidum, (the double variety of it

October."] P^EONIAS. 133

is aot worth growing,) L. Chalcedonicum, and its varie-
ties, L. Tignnum. L. Concolor and L. Mdrtagon; these,
with the species indigenous to this country, are all very
beautiful. They should be planted from three to five
inches deep, according to the size of the bulb, and need
not be taken up oftener than once in every three or four
years. None of the species can be transplanted after they
have grown, without injuring their flowering.

Narcissus require treatment similar to the Lily, except
the soil, which must be richer, and even then they do not
bloom so finely in a few years as they do when first im-
ported ; but they are cheap, and can annually be procured.

Psebnias are all magnificent in flower, and, for display, are

not surpassed by any spring blooming plant ; and

we do cheerfully urge our readers to cultivate the

choice sorts, which can scarcely be said to have a

rival. Such are —

P. Moutdn Bdnksii, common double blush tree Pseonia.
P. Moutdn papaverdcea, single white tree Paeonia, with

purple centre.

P. Moutdn rosea, large rose, semi-double tree Paeonia.
P. Moutdn odordta, sweet-scented, rose-coloured tree

Paeonia.

P. Moutdn albida plena, double white tree Paeonia.
P. edulis allifldra, single white herbaceous Paeonia.
P. edulis whitleji, superb double white herbaceous Pee-

onia.
P. edulis Hiimei, very large double rose herbaceous Pffi-

onia.
P. edulis frd grans, double red, sweet-scented herbaceous

Paeonia.
P. edulis Reevesiana, Chinese double crimson herbaceous

Paeonia.

P. qfficindlis rubra, common double herbaceous Paeonia.
P. officindlis atropurpurea, very dark crimson herbaceous

Paeonia.
P. officindlis dlbicans, changeable white rose, or blush

herbaceous Paeonia.

There are several other splendid double varieties in some
rare collections of Europe, which have not yet made their

1£4 TULIPS. [October.

appearance in general culture. There are also a few very
choice single kinds' that are desirable for growing to raise
new sorts from ; for it is from the single species that the
Chinese have been so successful in procuring the magnificent
double varieties, which are so anxiously and perseveringly
sought for. The seeds mature well in this country, and
should be sown as soon as ripe ; they will vegetate the fol-
lowing spring, and in three years may be expected to bloom.
The Paeony will grow in any rich loamy soil, which should
be at least fifteen inches deep. An eastern situation or
aspect is best adapted for them in this latitude ; but in the
more southern states, they will display their flowers better
on a northern aspect, or where they will be shaded from
the sun, but not under the dripping of trees. The most
suitable time for planting them is in September, October,
or November. Spring-planted roots never succeed well the
first year. Pseony moutan and its varieties are all of a
shrubby nature, and will grow into large bushes, produc-
ing from fifty to one hundred blooms of not less than fifteen
inches in circumference ; they can be propagated by divi-
sion of the root, or by layers.

Tulips. As this flower will soon be a decided favourite
over this mighty country, we will give a minute descrip-
tion of the soil most genial to it, at the same time re-
marking that it will grow in almost any soil or situation,
though less perfect. Many of the kinds are of the most
splendid colours and strong in growth, frequently growing
over three feet in height, with cups sufficiently large to
satisfy the greatest Bacchus. AH writers agree that Tulip
beds should be " four feet wide ;" though I think three
and a half will be found more convenient, and, in length,
according to the number of roots to be planted. The soil
should consist of good fresh loam, mixed with a small por-
tion of weh! rotted stable manure, at least two years old.
The whole should be incorporated together four months
previous to using. The common soil should be taken out
sixteen inches deep, and filled with the above compost.
Raise the beds not less than three inches above the paths
at the outside, and about six or eight inches in the middle ;
this convexity will assist in throwing ofFthe water in times
of heavy and continued rains. The bed thus formed, plant
the bulbs in rows, lengthwise on the bed, about six inches

October."] PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING. 125

from bulb to bulb, and seven inches from row to row. The
bed may be marked out by straining a line very tight,
lengthwise on the bed, and beating it with the back of the
spade, leaving a lined groove along the ground. Then,
' with a lath four feet long, let the bed be marked across at
six inches distance, so as to leave distinct impressions at
each crossing of the ground lines ; for these will form the
spots where the bulbs are to be planted, by means of a
dibber, made larger than the largest bulb, and flattened at
the end. The holes are to be made four inches deep, and
about half an inch of sharp sand ought to be dropped in
each. The centre line ought to be planted with the tallest
kinds, and the outside of the bed with the lowest. In se-
vere frosts they should be protected by boards or branches.
Tulips have ever been held in the highest estimation. As
early as 1637 history records one hundred and twenty
Tulips being sold at public auction for no less a sum than
nine thousand guilders, equal to thirty-six hundred dollars ;
and, in England, at the present day, a good collection is
valued at five thousand dollars. Florists generally divide
them into three classes, viz. : first, Bybloemens, such as
have a white ground, variegated with purple, as Bienfait
or Washington, &c. ; secondly, Bizarres, having a yellow
ground, variegated with scarlet, purple, rose, or velvet, as
Trafalgar, Due de Savoie, &c. ; and, thirdly, Roses with
white ground, variegated with rose, scarlet, or crimson, as
La Tcndresse, Rose mignonne, &c.

The superb kinds are often very expensive ; even fifty
pounds sterling is frequently given for a single bulb ;
and we doubt much if these high-priced kinds are finer
than Washington, Milo, or Trafalgar, which, with many
others, can be procured for less than one dollar each.

PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING.

This is a very proper period to plant the beautiful and
early flowering Pynisjap6nica,no\v called Cydoniajapo-
nica. The blossoms are of a rich scarlet colour. It is the
earliest flowering shrub of the garden, and deciduous,
though said by some to be " an evergreen." The plant is
bushy, and well adapted for single plants in grass plats, or
11*

126 PLANTING EVERGREENS. \_Octobtr.

forming low ornamental hedges. There is likewise C. j.
alba, a fine blush variety of the same habit, and both are
of the hardiest nature.

Double Primroses, Polyanthus, Daisies, &c. Any of
these that were planted in shaded situations in spring, and
have been preserved through the summer, should have for
their farther protection a bed well sheltered from the north-
west, in which they should be planted four inches apart.
Give them a few sprinklings of water in the morning, and
have a temporary frame of rough boards put together to
place over them during the severity of winter. The frame
may be covered with the same in place of glass, which
must be kept over them while they are in a frozen state.

Any other plants that are in the ground, which are in-
tended to be protected with frames through the winter,
ought to be immediately lifted and potted, and treated as
directed for all new-potted plants.

GRASS AND GRAVEL WALKS.

The former should be trimly cut and well rolled this
month, that they may appear neat all winter. Never allow
decayed leaves to lie any time upon them, as they are apt
to rot out the grass. The latter should be divested of every
weed, and receive a firm rolling. Clear them at all times
of leaves and other litter. These, if on a declivity, and
have not a firm substantial bottom, will be subject to be cut
up with every heavy rain. A break should be put in
every twenty, forty, or eighty feet to throw ofF the water.
A strong plank will answer perfectly well, but in such
situations we would prefer grass walks.

PLANTING EVERGREENS.

This month is the best period in autumn to plant these
shrubs ; and where there is a great extent to be planted, it
would be advisable to do a part of it now ; but we give the
preference to April, which see for directions.

November.'] DAHLIAS. 127

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

When the plantings of hulbs, &c., are finished, every
part of the garden should have a thorough cleaning. All
annual flowers will have passed the season of their beauty ;
therefore, remove the decayed flower stems or haulm, and
trim off the borders. Dig all vacant ground, especially
that intended to be planted with shrubs in the ensuing
spring, which ought to be dug from one to two feet deep.

NOVEMBER.

DAHLIAS.

IT is not advisable to delay lifting the roots of the Dahlia
after the first of the month, as frequently severe frosts
set in about this period, and would totally destroy them.
Choose a dry day for the purpose, and with a spade care-
fully lift every root, divesting it of any earth that may ad-
here thereto, but not to shake it off, as thereby the neck of
the tubers would be bruised, and probably entirely destroy
the vitality of the plant for the coming season. With us,
the frost generally destroys the foliage and stems of the
plants from about the middle of October to the beginning
of the present month. The stems should then be cut to
within a few inches of the ground: when the roots should
be lifted directly thereafter, and the labels properly secured
to them with metallic wire. Many opinions are given for
the best method of securing them during winter from
the effects of frost, which is their certain destruction. In
this country, a dry close cellar, that will retain a tempe-
rature of not less than thirty-five degrees, and not over
forty-five, will be the most proper place : if the tubers are
small, they should be covered with dry sand or earth. The
method we have adopted with our finest kinds, which has
resulted in complete success, is to lay dry boards on the

128 PRIMROSES, POLYANTHUS, AND DAISIES. [November.

cellar-floor, and place the roots closely thereon, covering
them to the stem with dry sand, laying mats over all : in
this manner they preserve till spring in the most perfect
order. They can also be kept in a cool green-house ; but
must be protected from drippings of water falling upon
them.

TUBEROSES, TIGRIUIAS AND AMARYLLIS.

These tubers and bulbs, as soon as the frost has partly
injured the foliage, should be taken up, and dried tho-
roughly in the sun, taking care, at all times, to keep them
clear from frost. When they are dry, divest them of their
foliage and fibres, and pack them in boxes with dry sand
or moss. Store these away for the winter, either in a
room or a dry cellar, where they will, at all times, be ex-
empt from frost, the least touch of which would destroy
them. AVe have kept them completely secure in the
cellar.

ERYTHRINAS.

Where there any plants of E. herbacea, E. laitrifolia,
and E. crisfa-gdlla, which are intended to be lifted, they
should be carefully done and preserved in half dry earth,
and kept beside the Dahlias. They are magnificent orna-
ments in the flower garden.

PRIMROSES, POLYANTHUS AND DAISIES,

That were planted in a sheltered spot, as directed last
month, should have a frame placed over them, and their
covering in readiness for the approach of winter; giving
the plants a light covering of leaves, which will preserve
their foliage from the effects of frost.

November.'] CHOICE CARNATIONS, &c. 129

CHOICE CARNATIONS, PINKS, PANSIES AND AURI-
CULAS,

That are in pots, should be placed in the frame intended
for their abode during winter. If the pots are plunged to
the rims in dry leaves or saw-dust, it will greatly protect
their roots from the severe effects of frost. Where glass
is used for these frames, they should have besides a cover-
ing of boards or straw mats ; those that are in beds may be
covered as above directed for Primroses, &c.

They ought not to be uncovered while in a frozen state.
It is not altogether the intensity of cold that destroys these
plants so much as the alternate thawing and freezing.

All half hardy plants, such as Wall-JJower German
stocks, Sweet-bay, tender roses, with several others, should
be protected as above directed for Carnations. Earth or
tan should be put round the outside of these frames, which
will be a partial shelter from the changing state of the atmo-
sphere. Oak leaves answer the purpose very well, but
they are a harbour for all kinds of vermin, especially rats
and mice, which would destroy every thing. It may be
useful to say a few words on the nature of tan or tanner's
bark. Many suppose that the smallest quantity will pro-
duce heat. If three or four cart loads of it are put into
one heap, and protected from the rain, it will ferment; and
when the first fermentation is abated, by mixing it with
leaves, a substantial hot-bed may be made, or put it by itself
into a pit ; and, when there is no pit, boards may be sub-
stituted to keep it together : either of these methods will
produce a lasting heat. But in small quantities, and ex-
posed to rain, &c., no heat will be produced, but rather the
contrary. It is excellent, when dry, in keeping out frost
from any plants ; being a body not easily penetrated, simi-
lar to dry sand, saw-dust, or dry leaves. Frequently the
same opinion is held in regard to stable manure, small por-
tions of which will never produce heat.

130 OF PLANTING, &c. [November,

OF PROTECTING PLANTS IN THE GARDEN.

During this or next month, according to the state of the
season, protect all the plants that are in the ground, which
are not completely hardy. The coverings may be straw,
Russia mats, canvas, boxes or barrels. The two latter must
be perforated in the top, to let the damp air pass off, or the
plant would become musty and decay. Those covered
with straw or mats should have small stakes placed round
the plants, and covering tied thereto, and remain so until
the month of March or first of April. Herbaceous plants
that are tender, may be covered with three or four inches
of tan, saw-dust, or half decayed leaves, which will tend
greatly to preserve their roots. These coverings must be
carefully removed on the first opening of spring. The
shrubs that are otherwise covered would be greatly bene-
fited by having their roots protected in a similar manner,
as directed for herbaceous plants.

PROTECTION OF SEEDLING BULBS.

If any seeds of Hyacinths, Tulips, or Fritillara, were
sown in pots or boxes, let them be removed to a dry, shel-
tered situation, and plunged level with the ground ; or fill
the spaces between them with dry leaves or tanner's bark,
and cover the whole with new-fallen leaves, laying over
all a few boards to prevent the wind blowing them off.
These form better coverings than straw or haulm, which is
liable to become musty, and communicate the effect to the
roots. The above covering is not required until the ap-
proach of severe frost.

OF PLANTING DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS.

It is not recommendable to make a general planting of
these at this period of the year ; the success entirely de-
pending on the nature of the season and the state of the
soil. If any are planted, let them be those of the hardiest
nature, and in light and absorbent so.'1, not subject to be

December.^ GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 131

stagnated or over-flooded during winter. When this and
next month are mild, autumn plantings are very frequently
as sure as those of the spring. But the precarious state
of the season is not to be depended upon, therefore avoid
large plantings of any kind, and more especially of deli-
cate roses, the roots of which are apt to rot off, except they
have been previously grown in pots. Nothing can be more
injurious to a plant, at this season particularly, than to bed
its roots in mortar, by which the tender fibres either perish
or are cramped ever afterward. The soil at the time of
planting should be so friable as not to adhere to the spade,
which is a good rule in planting at any season, or in any
soil.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

Carry out of the garden all decayed leaves and litter of
every description, cutting down any weeds that remain.
Collect all the stakes and rods that have been supporting
plants, tie them up in bundles for the use of next year, and
put them under cover. Look over every part of the gar-
den, and see that nothing has been omitted in the way of
covering or other protection. The sashes that are to be
used on the frames should be perfectly whole, every inter-
stice in the glass puttied, and all ready for use when occa-
sion may require. Attend to all plants in pots, and give
them gentle waterings as they stand in need; but never
during the time the soil is frozen about the roots.

DECEMBER.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

HAVING in the preceding months under this head given
details for the protection of plants of a delicate nature, and
the forwarding of necessary work, only a few remarks re-

132 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. [December.

main to be added. If there is any part therein described
omitted, have it done forthwith : every day increases
the danger of severe weather. If there are doubts of
any plants or shrubs not standing without some light co-
vering, it is best to err on the side of safety. Valuable
plants on walls, and in danger of being destroyed, it is
advisable to be at the expense of having a frame made to
surround them, and cover the same with oil-cloth. The
frame thus covered, should be taken off in mild weather,
and replaced again when necessary, causing very little
trouble; and, if properly taken care of, will last many
years. Coverings of any construction, and of the same
material, would answer for any part of the garden, and are
the best in our opinion that could be adopted.

THE

AMERICAN FLOWER GARDEN

DIRECTORY.

HOT-HOUSE.

ON THE CONSTRUCTION OF A HOT-HOUSE.

THERE have been many plans devised and visionary
projects offered to the public as the best for a well-regu-
lated hot-house. As we intend forming one for practical
purposes, we shall adopt a convenient size, have flues for
the conveyance of heat, and coal or wood for fuel.

Site and Aspect.— The house should stand on a situation
naturally dry, and, if possible, sheltered from the north-
west, and clear from all shade on the south, east, and west,
so that the sun may at all times act effectually upon the
house. The standard principle, as to aspect, is to set the
front directly to the south. Any deviation from that point
should incline to the east.

Dimensions. — The length may be from ten feet up-
ward ; but, if beyond forty feet, the number of fires and
flues are multiplied. The medium width is from twelve
to sixteen feet. Our directions will apply to the two ex-
treme points, viz. : forty feet by sixteen, and in height, at
back, from twelve to eighteen feet ; the height in front six
feet, including about three feet in brick basement, to sup-
port the front glass, which will be two and a half feet,
allowing six inches for frame-work.

Furnace and Flues. — It is of great importance to have!
these erected in such a manner as will effectually heat the
12

134 HOT-HOUSE.

house. The greatest difficulty is to have the furnace to
draw well. As workmen are not generally conversant on
the subject, nor yet understand the effect or distribution of
heat in these departments, we will give minute details on
their construction. The furnace should be outside of the
house, either at back or end ; the former is preferable, cir-
cumstances not always allowing it on the other plan. Dig
out the furnace-hole, or what is termed stock-hole, about
five feet deep. Let the door of the furnace be in the back
wall of the house, thereby having all the heated building
inside, that no heat may be lost. The brick-work round
the furnace should be nine inches thick, laying the inside
with fire-brick. Around the outside leave a vacuum two
or three inches wide, to allow the heat to arise from around
the furnace into the interior of the house, thereby saving
the whole heat of the fuel. The furnace will require to be
two and a half feet long, ten inches wide, and one foot
high, before the spring of the arch and clear of the bars ;
leave one foot for an ash-pit, then lay the bars. They
should be sixteen inches long, one inch broad on the upper
side, two inches deep, and two-eights broad on the lower
side, and, with the door and frame, should be cast iron.
Half an inch between each bar will be sufficient. The
flue should rise from the furnace by a steep declivity of
from twenty inches to two feet, and pass the door of the
house, (without a dip,') when it must be elevated above the
level of the floor of the house along the front, and at the
opposite end of the house must dip to pass the door. The
dip must not be lower than the bottom of the flue at the
neck of the furnace, and should be of a concave form,
(avoiding acute angles.) Lead it along the back to enter
the wall over the furnace. When thus taken round the
house, the heat will be expanded before it enters the chim-
ney. The inside of the flues should be from six to ten
inches wide, and eight inches deep ; plaster the bottom of
it, but no other part, as plaster is partially a non-conductor.
The above description is for burning anthracite coal ; but
where wood is to be the fuel, the furnace must be one-half
larger. We have been particular in the description of
furnace bars, as those generally used are miserable substi-
tutes. Circumstances may cause the furnace to be placed
at the end or front of the house. In either case the stock

HOT-HOUSE. 135

hole will not require to be so deep; or where there is only
one door in the house, a stock-hole three and a half feet
deep will be enough, which should be built like a cellar,
to keep out any under water. In all instances pass the
first flue to the front of the house, over which have a close
table, covered with two inches of sand, and, by keeping it
moist, will afford a very congenial heat to young and valu-
able plants. Likewise over the furnace have a frame in
the same manner, which will be found useful for propagat-
ing. Any part of the furnace or flue that is under the
floor of the house, should have a vacuity on both sides to
let the heat pass upward.

Furnaces and flues on the above construction are the
most simple in arrangement, and the easiest to manage at
all times. But where capital, taste, and practical science
can be united, a more elegant disposition of heating con-
venience can be adopted : an excavation should be made
for the flue to pass along under the pathway, which path-
way may be a casting of iron, or wooden slats, fancifully
put together, and at least six inches above the flue. In
building the furnace, place thereon a boiler of cast-iron or
copper, about two feet deep, two feet long, and four inches
wide, with a zinc or copper lid : having it prepared to re-
ceive two pipes, one near the bottom and the other about
four inches from the top : these pipes may be from four to
six inches in diameter, and are to be taken along under the
table in front of the house, in a level position, and, at the
end of the house, joined together by a perpendicular pipe,
or joint which should have an end about one foot higher
than the highest part of the upper pipe. When all is pro-
perly fixed, fill the boiler with rain or river water, if possi-
ble : the air in the pipes will pass out at the perpendicular
end, and, when all are full, put a perforated cover on the
end of the pipe. As soon as the water becomes heated, it
will arise from the bottom of the boiler, and pass along the
upper pipe, and return cool by the under one. Or, in
place of the pipe returning again by the front, it can pass
all round the house, only there must be a piece of perpen-
dicular pipe to allow the air to get out — the consumption
of water will not be over half a gallon in twenty-four hours.
If the pipes require to be higher than the boiler, the boiler
cover must be hermetically sealed, and the filling operation

136 HOT-HOUSE.

conducted by the upright tube or pipe, which must always
be full of water. This we consider the most economical
method of heating by hot water, and it is by far the most
simple — simple indeed in every part, though volumes have
been written on the subject.

Park Pit. — We consider such an erection in the centre
of a hot-house a nuisance, and prefer a stage, which may
be constructed according to taste. It should be made of
the best Carolina pine, leaving a passage all round, to cause
a free circulation of air. The back and end paths may be
about two feet wide, and the front three feet. The angle
of the stage should be parallel with the glass, having the
steps from six inches to one foot apart.

Where there are some large plants, they may stand on
the floor behind the stage, or on tressels, according to their
height.

Angle of the glazed Roof. — The pitch of the roof is
usually varied to agree with the design of the house, and
the size of the plants to be grown therein. Where pleasure
and ornament are the principal objects, the angle should be
about 33° from the level line ; but a few degrees of inclina-
tion either way is of minor importance.

Materials for glazing Sashes.'— Caroline pine is the best
material for the wood-work, as it is not so subject to decay
from moisture and heat as the other kinds of pine wood.
The frames or sashes can be of any convenient length, not
exceeding ten feet, and about three and a half or four feet
wide, and made from plank two inches thick, divided so
as they can be glazed with glass six inches wide.

Of Glazing. — The pieces of glass should not exceed
six inches by eight, though six by six is preferable ; the
lappings about one quarter of an inch. The frames ought
to have two coats of paint previous to glazing, and the
glass bedded in putty. Some prefer the lappings to be
puttied also. It is our opinion that in a hot-house these
should not be puttied, but, in the green-house, the closer
they can be made the better.

Of Shutters. — These should be made of three-quarters
of an inch white pine, and bound on both ends and sides,
having a cross piece in the middle of the same. They
ought to be painted at least once in three years.

Jan.] HOT-HOUSE. 137

HOT-HOUSE.

JANUARY.

AT all times be very careful of the temperature of this
department, and more especially at this season of the year,
as a few minutes' neglect might materially injure many of
the delicate plants. The thermometer ought to range
between 55° and 65°. In fine sunshine days admit a
little air by having some of the top sashes let down one,
two, or three inches, according to the weather, and let it
always be done from eleven to one o'clock ; but by no
means in such a manner as to cause a draught in the inte-
rior of the house, which would be very prejudicial. There-
fore, be always cautious during cold weather, in adminis-
tering that necessary element to vegetation, which is so
conducive to health.

OF FIRING AND FUEL.

The hot-house ought never to be left entirely to inexpe-
rienced persons, because they are not aware of what might
be the result of inattention even for an hour. Attention
to the following observations will obviate every difficulty:
About this season of the year frost generally sets in very-
severe in the middle states. Suppose the day may have all
the clemency of spring, the night may be directly the re-
verse. Every precaution is necessary to guard against
extremes. The shutters are put on every night at sun-
down, and, in severe weather, as soon as the sun goes off
the glass. If the shutters are omitted till late in severe
frost, it will so reduce the heat of the house, that you can-
not overcome it by fire until near midnight; and, when
done, the fire or fires hare been made more powerful than
they ought to be, proving ungenial to the plants that are
near the flues. The air, as above directed, having been
taken off the house at one o'clock, as soon as the mercury
begins to fall in the thermometer, kindle the fire, and, sup-
12*

138 HOT-HOUSE. [Jan.

posing it is anthracite coal, in twenty minutes, with a good
drawing furnace, the heat will operate in the house. If a
coal fire, kindled about four o'clock, it will require an addi-
tion about six, and then may be made up again about nine
or ten, which will suffice until morning. The quantity
must be regulated by the weather. If the fuel is wood, it
must be attended to three or four times during the even-
ing; and, when the mornings are intensely cold, a fire
may be. requisite. When there are bad drawing furnaces,
the fires must be made much earlier, perhaps by two or
three o'clock, which will be easily observed by the time
the fire takes effect upon the air of the house. The tem-
perature ought never to be under fifty degrees of Fahren-
heit.

OF WATERING THE PLANTS.

To do this judiciously, is so necessary to vegetation, and
so requisite to understand, and yet the knowledge so diffi-
cult to convey to others, (being entirely acquired by prac-
tice,) that if the power were in man to impart to his fel-
low-men, he would possess the power of perfecting a
gardener by diction. However, the hints on this important
point of floriculture will be as clear and expressive as can
at present be elicited. All plants in this work that are
aquatic shall be specified as such ; and those that are arid
shall be duly mentioned. All others will come in the
medium.

All the plants must be looked over every day, and those
watered that appear to be getting dry on the top. It must
be strictly observed not to give water to any but such as
strictly require it, and let it be given moderately at this
season. There is not so much liability to err, at present,
in giving too little, as in administering too much. Vege-
tation among the stove or hot-house plants will soon begin
to show, and the soil will become sour if it is impregnated
with stagnant moisture. Small plants should always be
watered with a pot having what is termed a rose upon it.
The surface of the rose, that is, where it is perforated with
small apertures, ought to be level, or a little concave, which
would convey the water more to a centre, and make neater

Jan."] HOT-HOUSE — INSECTS, &c. 139

work, by preventing any water from being unnecessarily
spilt in the house. The size of the pot will be regulated
by the person to suit the conveniences of the place. Water,
when applied either to the roots or foliage of the plants,
should be about the medium temperature of the house.
Where there are no cisterns, a tank or barrel might be in
the house, in which the water could stand for one night or
more, as is most suitable. When water is given without
being thus aired, it chills the roots, prevents a luxuriant
growth, injures the fresh and healthful appearance of the
foliage, and too frequently gives to all the plants a sickly
hue.

OF INSECTS, THEIR DESTRUCTION, &c.

In this department insects begin to increase by hun-
dreds, and too frequently their ravages are very obvious
before their progress is arrested. We will treat of those
which are most common, under their respective heads, with
their nature and cure, as far as has come under our obser-
vation.

Jlphis rosse, of the natural order of Heiniptera, or what
is commonly known by Green Fly, Green Lice, &c., in-
fect plants in general, and are particularly destructive in
the hot-house to Hibiscus rosa-sin?nsis, tflsclepias, Crds-
sula coccinea, Lantdna, &c., and many other plants of a
free-growing nature. They attack the young and tender
shoots at the point, leaving a dark filthy appearance on the
foliage. Many remedies for their destruction have been
offered to the public by various writers, each equally
secure in his own opinion. Extensive practice alone can
show the most easy and effectual cure. Fumigating with
tobacco is decidedly the most efficacious, and in the power
of any to perform. Take a small circular furnace, made
of sheet iron, diameter at top twelve inches, and at bottom
eight; depth one foot, having a grating in it to reach with-
in three inches of the bottom, which will leave space for
the air to pass, and where the ashes will fall and be kept
in safety, having a handle like a pail to carry it with.
This, or any thing similar, being ready, put in it a few-
embers of charcoal, ignited to redness; take it into the

140 HOT-HOUSE — INSECTS, &c. [Jan.

centre of the house, and put therein a quantity of moist
tobacco. If it attempts to blaze or flame, sprinkle a little
water thereon ; and, as it consumes, continue to add to-
bacco until the house is entirely full of smoke, observing
always to do it in still, cloudy weather, or in the evening.
If it is windy, the smoke is carried off without having half
the effect, and requires more tobacco. The house must be
closely shut up. There are several plants whose foliage
is of a soft downy nature, such as Helitropiums, Calla-
cdrpus, Sdlvias, and many of the Lantanas, Vmcas, with
several others that cannot stand strong fumigation without
danger. These should be put down in the house, or under
the stage. These fumigations will have to be repeated fre-
quently, the time for which will easily be perceived; and,
when required, ought not to be delayed. Several species
and varieties of the same genus, rfphis, can be destroyed
in the like manner.

Jlcaris tellurius, or red spider, is caused by a dry atmo-
sphere, and its havoc generally is obvious before it is
arrested. With its proboscis it wounds the fine capillary
vessels of the leaves. If they progress in their destructive
work, the leaves will prematurely decay. On this appear-
ance, turn up the leaf, and you will see them running
about with incredible swiftness. Their body is of a blood
colour, and their feet light red. When very numerous,
they work thick webs on the under side of the leaf, and
frequently all over it, forming a mass of half died plants,
decayed leaves, and thousands of spiders. The most
effectual remedy is a thorough syringing with water, and
profusely under the foliage. This being done every even-
ing, will subdue and eventually banish them. Had the
house been syringed two or three times per week, these
intruders would not have appeared. It is said by some
writers, that watering only reduces them to a temporary
state of inaction, and will not destroy them. Laying aside
the many prescribed nostrums, we assert that the pure ele-
ment is the most effectual cure, as well as the most easy
to be obtained.*

Thrips, order Hemiptera, are insects so minute as

* Fumes of sulphur is instant death to them; but it has to be
used with great caution and experience.

Jan.'] HOT-HOUSE — INSECTS, &c. 141

scarcely to be perceptible to the naked eye. They gene-
rally lurk close to the veins of the leaves of plants, and
frequently attack esculents. When viewed through a
glass, they are seen, when touched, to skip with great agi-
lity. The larva is of a high brown or reddish colour. The
thrip has four wings, and walks with its body turned up-
ward. It frequently attacks the extremities of tender shoots
or young leaves, which become shriveled, brown, and will
rub to dust easily between the thumb and f]nger. When
any leaves or shoots are perceived to be so, if you do not
observe the green fly, expect the thrips. They may be
destroyed by a fumigation of tobacco, in the same manner
as the green fly. By the simple and expeditious method
of fumigation, these insects and several others may be de-
stroyed effectually at any time they appear.

Cocus hesperidv.s, or mealy bug, has appeared in the
hot-houses about Philadelphia within these few years, and,
if not instantly destroyed, increases rapidly. It is of a
white dusty colour ; when broken, of a brownish red, gene-
rally covered with down, under which it deposits its eggs ;
and they, in a few months, come forth in great numbers.
The cocus generally is of a dormant nature, but in warm
weather they may be seen moving rapidly up the stems of
the plants. Fumigating has no observable effect on these
insects ; therefore, as soon as they appear, recourse must
be had to other means. The liquid made from the follow-
ing receipt is death to any of the Cocus tribe : Take two
pounds of strong soap, one pound of flour of sulphur, one
pound of leaf tobacco, one and a half ounce of nux vomica,
with a tablespoonful of turpentine, which boil in four gal-
lons of river water to three; then set aside to cool. When
boiling, stir it well with a stick, continuing to do so until
it is reduced as above. In this liquor immerse the whole
plant, drawing it to and fro gently, that the liquor may
penetrate everywhere. This done, lay the plant on its
side, until it begins to dry, then syringe well with clean
water, and put it in its respective station. Where a col-
lection of plants is free from any insects of the kind, every
plant that is introduced ought to be minutely scrutinized,
that the unclean may be kept from the clean : the above
insect will feed almost on any plant, but indulges on Crds-

142 HOT-HOUSE — INSECTS, &c. [Jan.

sulas, any of the bristly Cactus, Gardenias, and in fact
whatever is in the way.

Cocus , or brown scaly insect, is frequently

found on many plants, but we never could perceive that it
does any other material injury than soiling them. We
have always observed, that it is found in winter to abound
in those situations which are most excluded from air; there-
fore is of less importance than the other species, which eat
and corrode the leaves of tender plants. A washing with
strong soap-suds will destroy them, or the above liquid
will do it more effectually. Tie a piece of sponge on the
end of a small stick, and scrub every leaf, stem and cre-
vice. Fumigating destroys the larvae of this species.

Cocus , or small white scaly insect, which

generally infests Cycus, Nerium, Oleas, and Acacias, &c.,
may be destroyed by washing as above with a sponge, and
a strong decoction of tobacco, using the liquid about the
warmth of 100°. Being thus heated, it irritates the insect,
when, by easing itself from its bed, the fluid passes under
it, and causes immediate death. If it is not thus irritated,
it adheres so closely to the foliage, that it will keep you at
defiance. The under, or dark side of the leaves is its resi-
dence ; and we have observed a plant in a house where
there was only light on one side, with the dark side lite-
rally covered, while the light side was clean. So much
for having houses with plenty of light. The effects of this
insect are of a corroding nature, extracting all the juice
from the leaf; and where they have got to the extremity,
the foliage is completely yellow, and of a decayed appear-
ance.

Cocus , or turtle insect. We have never ob-
served this insect arrive to any extent. It is the largest
of any known among us, and very like a turtle in minia-
ture. On lifting it from the wood, to which it generally
adheres, there appear to be hundreds of eggs under it,
but fumigating completely destroys the larvae. In our
opinion, this turtle insect is no other than the old female
of the brown scaly insect, which swells to a large size
before depositing its eggs. We have frequently observed
the insect dead in this enlarged state, and question if this
be not the last stage of its transmigration. The male insect
is winged, and very active in its movements.

Jan."] HOT-HOUSE— OP CLEANSING, &C. 143

Where bulbous roots, such as Hyacinths, Jonquils,
Jxias, Lachenallas, &c., are required to be early in flower,
they may, during this month, be put in the front of the hot-
house and watered freely till they bloom, when they may
be taken to the green-house or parlour.

Azaleas, Rhododendron Roses, and some other plants,
do admirably to force, and where there is a large stock, a
few should be brought into early bloom with the heat of
this department.

OF CLEANSING PLANTS, HOUSE, &c.

This subject ought to be kept constantly in view. How-
ever correctly every thing else may be executed, without
that adorning beauty, cleanliness, all will appear only half
done. Therefore let all the dead leaves be picked off every
day, the dust and other litter swept out of the house, and,
when necessary, the house washed, which will be at least
once a week. That the foliage of the plants may always
appear fresh, syringe them every morning, when there is
the appearance of sun. At present, this will in a great
measure keep down the insects, and will prove a bane to
the red spider.

Tie up neatly with stakes and threads of Russia mat all
the straggling growing plants ; let the stakes be proportion-
ate to the plants, and never longer, except they are climb-
ing sorts. Do not tie the branches in bundles, but singly
and neatly, imitating nature as much as possible. If any
of the plants are affected with the Cocus insect, let them
be cleansed according to the plan already mentioned, taking
particular care also in washing the stakes to which they
had been previously tied, and burning all the old tyings,
which contain the larvae of the insect in many instances,
especially of Cocus hesperidus. It is premised, when any
of these things are done, that they will be well done, and
not half doing, and always doing. Cleanliness, in every
respect, promotes a pure air, which is congenial to vegeta-
tion, and will, with other attentions, always ensure a health-
ful and vigorous appearance in the house.

144 HOT-HOUSE. [Feb.

FEBRUARY.

IN the early part of this month the weather generally is
very cold and changeable in the middle states, and strict
attention, with the greatest caution, will require to be paid
to the management of the hot-house. Most of the tropical
plants commence an active state of vegetation; and, if
checked by temperature or otherwise, they will not recover
until midsummer. The thermometer may be kept two or
three degrees higher with fire heat than last month: the
sun will be more powerful, and this will, in a great degree,
increase the vigour of the plants. Air may be admitted
when the thermometer rises to 75° or 80°, not allowing it
to rise higher than the latter. In giving air, let it be done
by the top sashes. It is improper to give it in any way
to cause a current, for the external air is yet very cold,
although the sun is more powerful. An inch or two on a
few of the sashes, as has been previously observed, will be
effectual in keeping the temperature low enough.

With regard to firing, what was said last month may
suffice for this. Always recollect that it is more preferable
to keep out the cold than to put it out. It will frequently
happen in the time of intense frost, that the weather is
dull. In such cases fire in a small degree is requisite all
day.

Heavy snows ought never to be allowed to remain on
the shutters while they are on the house. If the snow lies
on the sashes one day, the internal heat will dissolve some
of it ; night coming on, will freeze it to the wood-work,
when it will become a solid mass, and frequently cannot
be separated without much damage. If allowed to remain
on for two days, the plants are very much weakened and
the foliage discoloured. Therefore, let the snow be cleared
off* instantly, that no inconvenience may take place.

It will be observed that plants absorb more water this
month than last. The quantity given will require to be
increased, according to the increase of vegetation and the
advancement of the season ; but never give it until the soil
begins to dry, and then in such proportion as will reach
the bottom of the pot. The best time to water is after the

Feb."] HOT-HOUSE OF REPOTTING PLANTS. 145

sun has got on the house in the morning, observing all the
directions given in January. ,

OF INSECTS, &c.

Perhaps sufficient observations were given under this
head last month ; but the importance " of keeping these
disagreeable visitors out of the house constrains us to make
a few more remarks. Man cannot be too frequently guarded
against his foes, more especially when they are summoning
all their forces, and no profession has more than that of the
Horticulturist. Let a strict examination be made about
the end of the month for the red spider; they will be in
operation some weeks before their depredations are ob-
served on the foliage. The under side of the leaf is their
resort in the first instance, and on such plants as have been
already mentioned.

Observe daily the young shoots, in case the green fly
becomes numerous. They give the foliage a very disa-
greeable appearance, and it is too often intolerable, before
their career is arrested. It also takes a stronger fumiga-
tion, which has frequently to be repeated the following day
to the same degree, much to the injury of many of the
plants, and adding to the disagreeableness of the continued
vapour in the house.

OF REPOTTING PLANTS.

About the end of the month some of the plants of Cur-
cuma, Amomum, K&mpferia, Alpina, Phrynium, Cdnna,
Zingiber, Hedychium, and others that are on the dry
shelf, will be offering to grow. Let them be taken out of
their pots, some of their weakest shoots or tubers taken
off, and the strong ones repotted: give gentle waterings
until they grow freely, then give an abundance. (Soil
No. 17.)

Dionsea mucipula, or Venus fly-trap, grows best in the

hot-house, and will, about the end of the month, stand in

need of being repotted. This plant is very seldom grown

in any degree of perfection, having been always considered

13

146 HOT-HOUSE— OF REPOTTING PLANTS. [Feb.

a delicate plant in collections. Take it out of the pot
just before beginning to grow afresh, and divested of all
the soil, leaving only a few of the young roots, (it is a
bulb, and will receive no injury by so doing,) put it in new
soil ; when potted, place the pot in a saucer with one inch
of water in it, giving afresh supply every other day; this
being repeated every year, it will grow, flower and seed in
perfection. (Soil No. 5.)

Gesnerias, if in small pots, give larger as they advance
in growth. This genus requires to have plenty of pot-room
to make them flower well. G. bulbosa, G. Zebrina and
G. Sellowii ought to have a situation in every hot-house.
They are remarkable for their many brilliant crimson flow-
ers, and continue in flower for a length of time. When
the bulbs begin to push, shake them out of the earth, and
repot them into smaller pots; and, as soon as the roots
reach the side of the earth, which will be in about one
month, put them in larger pots, and continue to do so until
flowering, which will be about the first of June, observing
always to keep the ball of earth entire. G. Douglasii,
G. rutilla, G. acaiilis, and some others, are all well worth
attention. (Soil No. 11.)

Gloriosas must be repotted in the beginning of this
month ; G. superba is the most beautiful and curious. The
crown of the roots ought to be planted one and a half inch
deep, taking care not to break them. Do not water much
until they begin to grow. The earth must not have much
water. As the plants grow, they will require a more libe-
ral supply; yet it is necessary, at all times, to be mode-
rate in giving it. If well treated, the superb flowers will
appear in June or July. (Soil No. 12.)

Gloxinias are beautiful herbaceous plants, with large
showy flowers, requiring soil and treatment similar to (Ges-
neria). G. spedosa, dark blue, G. speciosa-pdllida, pale
lilac ; G. Candida, pure white, and G. grandiflora, very
large light blue, are the finest, although several of the other
species are very interesting, especially G, hirsuta.

March.'] HOT-HOUSE— OF CLEANSING PLANTS, &c. 147

OF CLEANSING PLANTS, HOUSE, &c.

With regard to cleaning the plants. Sprinkling or sy-
ringing is at all times, to a greater or less degree, necessary.
The plants will, in this compartment, be in their first
stage of growth, and, if dust or foulness be permitted to
lodge on their foliage, the pores will be obstructed, the
plants will become unhealthy, and the growth of insects
increased.

Let all moss, litter, decayed leaves or weeds, be cleared
out of the house, the earth in the pots stirred up with a
round pointed stick, and fresh earth given where required,
that the air may operate therein freely.

The house ought always to be sprinkled before being
swept, to prevent the dust rising.

Attend to the bulbous roots as directed last month, such
as Hyacinths, Narcissus, &c.

MARCH.

IF this department has been regularly attended to, the
plants will be in a fresh healthy state. Where there is any
sickly appearance, heat has been deficient, or insects of a
destructive character are preying upon the plants. Too
much water at the root frequently causes the foliage to be-
come yellow. Regular syringing must be continued in the
morning, and it is highly necessary that the water that is
used should be of the same temperature as the house ; and
at all times, whatever water is given to the roots, the same
must be observed. For airing, see last month, observing,
as the season advances, to increase the quantity.

Continue to fumigate when any of the Green-fly appears,
(see January for directions,) and where there are any of the
plants infected with the white scaly insect, clean them as
there directed. If overlooked for a few months, they will
be increased tenfold. Very frequently, where there are
only a few, they are neglected until the plant is overrun

148 HOT-HOUSE OF REPOTTING, &C. [April.

with them, and then it may be said, it is impossible to dis-
lodge them entirely. Clear off all decayed leaves from the
plants which will have made fresh shoots, and the decayed
leaves very much disfigure the whole collection. We
would not have repeated this observation if it was not an
essential point, and one which is so frequently neglected.

OF REPOTTING PLANTS.

Many of the young plants that are growing freely, and
where they may be desired to grow to a large size, should
be frequently repotted to encourage their growth. Ges-
neria, Gloxinia, and others previously mentioned, must
have larger pots, as they require it. Flowering bulbs of
Amaryllis may be brought into the heat to make them
bloom early ; before they begin to grow, divest them of the
old soil and put them into fresh: this is particularly neces-
sary, when the bulbs are already in large pots. By thus
renewing the soil, the pots can be used much smaller : they
require plenty of drainage in the pot, and agree best with
(soil No. 12).

Where plants of the dwarf Musas are intended to be
grown for fruiting, they must have particular attention in
repotting as they grow ; about the first of the month will be
a proper time to begin :• copious waterings are daily required
when they are in a growing state. Their soil is No. 12,
with one portion more manure. For farther detail, see
May.

APRIL.

WHERE the hot-house has been properly conducted, the
plants generally will have a vigorous and healthful aspect.
An error frequently arises in the conducting of these de-
partments, by inexperienced operators being ambitious -of
outstripping their competitors. They keep the house in a
very high temperature, and admit little or no air. Where

May.~] HOT-HOUSE — OF REPOTTING, &c. 149

such a mode has been pursued, the plants will have got
over their first growth, and the foliage looks yellow and
decaying ; thus throwing the plants into a state of inacti-
vity, when nature herself commences her most active move-
ments. The temperature should not be under 55° in the
night, nor much above 75° during the day, without admit-
ting a little air by the top lights. It will not do yet to give
air by the front sashes, the wind being cool, and a current
in the house would be hurtful. The sun is not so power-
ful but the heat can be kept down by the air given from
above.

Hot-house or tropical plants will not materially suffer
with 100° of sun-heat, provided they are not very near
the glass ; but such an extreme would be injurious to prac-
tice.

REPOTTING.

Where there is a general assortment of the Cacteae tribe,
and kept in this department, now is the proper period to
give them a general repotting. Of all the tropical floral
productions, there is not a family more curious, grotesque,
interesting, and beautiful than this ; and, what still more
enhances their real value, they are in this country of the
easiest culture ; it is with pleasure that we recommend a
few of the grand and the novel, which are faithfully de-
scribed in the general list given next month. The bottom
of every pot must be covered with an inch of pot-shreds,
or rough gravel for drainage.

MAY.

VERY few directions for this department remain to be
given ; except for shifting plants, and a few observations
on those that are most desirable for the hot-house; which
we will do in this month, considering May and June the
best months of the year for that operation.
13*

150 HOT-HOUSE— OT REPOTTING, &C. \_Ma\).

The days and nights will be very mild by this time, and
the sashes in every favourable day should be opened, both
in front and top, so that the plants may be inured to the
open air, which they will be exposed to by the end of the
month. Leave 'in the beginning of the month the top
sashes a little open every mild night, and gradually, as the
heat increases, leave -the front sashes and doors open. Con-
tinue to syringe them at least every alternate night, and, if
possible, every night; and give them all, according to their
respective wants, liberal supplies of water every day. Ab-
sorption among hot-house plants is as great during this
month as in any period of the year.

OF REPOTTING PLANTS, &c.

It is our candid opinion that this and next month are the
best periods for shifting or repotting all or most of hot-house
plants ; the end of August being the time always adopted
around Philadelphia for that' operation, (and then they are
done indiscriminately). We will assign a few reasons for
our practice.

First, that it is not congenial to the nature of these plants
to have their roots surrounded with fresh soil when they
are becoming inactive ; secondly, that there is not a suffi-
ciency of heat naturally to quicken them to an active state
when ' they are encouraged ; and, thirdly, being thus in
new soil while dormant* they have a yellow and sickly
aspect until they begin to grow ; and the foliage, thus de-
prived of its natural vigour, will not appear so healthful
again : whereas, if they are shifted or repotted in this or
next month, at which season they are between two stages
of- growth, they immediately, on receiving fresh assistance,
and by the increasing heat of the summer, make new
growths, are perfectly ripened before the approach of
winter, and never lose that vernal appearance they have
attained. These are our reasons, acquired from a close
practice and observation, and are- not influenced by the
doings of others which are so much aside. No practical
operator especially, nor, in fact, any individual, ought to be
governed by custom in regard to the treatment of plants,
without having an idea as to why and wherefore, founded

HOT-HOUSE OF REPOTTING, &C. 151

on the principles of nature, and governed by her unerring
results.

As many are desirous of having a knowledge of plants
before they order them, and likewise which are the finest
flowerers and their general character, especially those who
are at .a great distance, and seldom have the privilege of
seeing what is most desirable, our descriptions will be
limited, but still will convey some accurate idea of the arti-
cle described.

Acacias. Several of these are desirable in the hot-house
for the grandeur of their foliage, beauty of flower, and a
few of them as specimens of valuable medicinal plants. A.
Houstoni, now" Annesleia Houstoni, is one of the most
magnificent of the Mimosa tribe, blooming from August to
November in large terminal spikes, of a crimson colour,
stamens very long and beautiful, leaves bipinnated in pairs.
A. grandiflora, likewise given to Annesleia, and similar to
the former in colour, has very large compound bipinnale
leaves, with from twenty to forty pairs. A. Catechu, flow-
ers yellow, wood spiny, leaves bipinnated, about ten pairs.
The inner wood of this tree is of a brown colour, from
which the Catechu used in medicine is prepared. It is
disputed whether A. vera or A. ardbica produces the gum
Arabic. We are inclined to think it is the latter, which
grows principally on the Atlas mountains. The gum
exudes spontaneously from the bark of the tree in a soft
half fluid state. There are many others of this genus be-
longing to the hot-house, but being shy in flowering, are
not generally esteemed. Most of the flowers have the
appearance of yellow balls of down, and are hermaphro-
dite. The pots should all be well drained. (Soil No. 1.)*

JEschynanthus, about four species, among which JE.
grandiflorus and M. parasiticus are very deserving of cul-
ture ; they have thick fleshy foliage, are of slender growth,
producing orange-coloured tubular flowers in clusters, and
require treatment similar to the wax-plant. (Soil No. 2.)

Ardisias, about eighteen species. Plants highly es-
teemed for the beauty of their foliage, flowers, and berries.
The most popular in our collections is A. crenulata. It
has rose-coloured star-like flowers, in terminal panicles,

* These numbers refer to the table of soils at the end of the wo'rk.

152 HOT-HOUSE— OF REPOTTING, &C. {May.

and produces beautiful small red berries, which continue
until other berries are produced the following year, and
frequently there may be seen on one plant the berries of
three successive years, thus being a very ornamental plant
and very desirable. It is vulgarly called the dwarf ever-
bearing cherry. It will keep in a good green-house, but
not grow freely. A. solanacea has large oblong leaves,
narrowed at each end, and bears purple berries ; A. ele-
gans has entire, oblong, shining leaves ; A. umbellata,
once A. littoralis, is also a fine plant for an abundance of
flower and beauty of foliage. The flowers are pink, in
large decompound panicles.

rfreca, Cabbage-tree, ten species. They are a kind of
palms, with large pinnated leaves, or properly fronds. In
their indigenous state they are from six to forty feet high,
but in the hot-house they seldom exceed twenty feet. A.
catechu is used in medicine. A. olerdcea is cultivated
extensively in the West Indies, and the tender part of the
top is eaten by the natives. A. montand is most frequent
in collections. There is no particular beauty in the flowers.
They are all easily grown, if plenty of heat be given. (Soil
No. 12.)

Aristolochias, Birth-wort. There are several of these
belonging to the hot-house, but none of them deserving
particular observation, except A. labiosa and A. brasilien-
sis. The leaves are reniform, roundish, cordate, and am-
plexicaule ; the flower or corolla is of a curious construction,
being incurved, and at the base swelled or saccate, with a
large lip, and all beautifully spotted ; colour greenish brown.
They are climbing plants, and require a strong heat. (Soil
No. 9.)

Astrapaeas, three species. A. Wallicldi is a celebrated
plant in Europe, and is frequently met with in our collec-
tions. It has a profusion of scarlet umbellated flowers,
with an involucre; has twenty -five stamens united into a
tube, bearing the corolla with five petals; leaves roundish,
cordate, acuminate, very large, with persistent, ovate wavy
stipules. The plant is of easy culture, and grows freely,
wood very strong. (Soil No. 12.)

Bambiisas, Bamboo-cane, two species. Plants of very
strong growth, and are used in the East Indies, where they
are indigenous, for eVery purpose in the construction of

May.'] HOT-HOUSE — OF REPOTTING, &c. 153

huts, for furniture both domestic and rural, for fences,
boats, boxes, paper, &c. It is frequently used as pipes to
convey water. The species thus useful is B. arundindcea,
which grows tt> a great height. We do not mention it as
interesting in beauty, but as a valuable plant for the many
useful purposes to which it is applied. It requires to be
kept wet. (Soil No. 15.)

Banisterias, a genus of about fourteen climbing ever-
green plants. Three of them are esteemed, B. Julgens,
yellow flowers in racemose spikes, leaves subovate and
downy beneath. B. chrisophylla has beautiful foliage, as
if covered with a shining gold-coloured dust; leaves large,
oblong, acute. B. splendens, flowers in spikes of a yellow
colour ; foliage large and silvery-like ; the pots should be
well drained. (Soil No. 9.)

Barringtonias, two species. B. speciosa has produced
a great excitement among cultivators, and is one of the
handsomest plants produced within the tropics. The
leaves are large, oblong, acute, shining, with fleshy nerves,
tinged with red; the flowers are large, full of stamens
with four petals ; opens in the evening and fades at sun-
rise ; colour purple and white ; grows freely in strong heat.
(Soil No. 9.)

Beaumontias are strong growing climbing plants, with
large foliage. B. grandiflora is said to have beautiful
large white flowers approaching the Oleander. (Soil No.
*«•]

Bletias, a genus of about eight species, all beautiful
flowering plants. B. Tankervilfise is most superb, a small
plant, now (Jan.) in bloom, has upward of fifty full-blown
flowers, besides many buds — they are brown, white, and
purple, and about two inches in diameter. When out of
flower, and the roots become dormant, place the pots in a
shady situation ; allow the soil to become dry, until the
roots begin to grow: as soon as this is observed, repot the
plants arid expose them fully to the sun, giving plenty of
water while growing. B. SheppHerdii is a fine pink, and
requires similar treatment. (Soil No. 13.)

Brmvneas, five species of splendid plants, but scarce in
collections. B. coccinea has scarlet flowers in pendulous
bunches, corolla semi-double, foliage bipinnate, in three
pairs. B. rosa, mountain rose of Trinidad. B. grandi-

154 HOT-HOUSE— OF REPOTTING, &C. [May.

ceps is the finest of the genus, leaves bipinnated ; leaflets
cordate, acuminate, downy, and pendulous ; flowers rose-
colour, in large close heads. Drain the pots well. (Soil
No. 12.)

Brunfelsias, very fine, free flowering plants, with white,
yellowish, or purple flowers. B. grandiflora blooms
freely, and is finely scented — a plant before me, now
(28th of Jan.) only one foot high, has six full expanded
flowers upon it, each fully two inches in diameter. (Soil
No. 9.)

Buonapdrtea juncea, a very curious low growing plant,
with long narrow, recurved, round leaves ; with spikes of
small blue flowers. There does appear to be three distinct
varieties in cultivation, but are rarely attainable. (Soil
No. 12.)

Buddha madagascariensis blooms profusely during
winter in spikes of orange-coloured flowers, of a kind of
honey fragrance — the plant is strong growing, and of the
easiest culture. (Soil No. 11.)

Calathea zebrlna, frequently known as mardnta zebri-
na ; it is a plant unique in appearance, having large elon-
gated ovate leaves, beautifully striped with green and dark
purple, and called the Zebra plant. It has light blue flowers
in ovate spikes, about the size of large pine cones. It is
an herbaceous plant; but in the warmest part of the hot-
house retains its splendid foliage ; requires a very liberal
supply of water, and ought to be in every collection. (Soil
No. 11.)

Cdnnas, about thirty species, several of them deserving
cultivation both for flower and foliage : they are principally
natives of the West Indies, and might all be easily obtained.
The finest are C. gigdntea, has large leaves and orange
flowers; C. limbata, flowers scarlet and yellow; C. dis-
color, has large cordate, acuminate leaves of a crimson
colour, the flowers are scarlet; C. iridiflora, has large crim-'
son nodding flowers, very different from any of the others,
and the finest of the genus. They all, while in a growing
state, require a liberal supply of water; and being herba-
ceous plants, watering ought to be given up about the first
of November, and renewed in February, thus giving them
a cessation which they require to flower freely ; but when
water is constantly given, which is the general plan in our

May.~] HOT-HOUSE — OF REPOTTING, &c. 155

collections, they continue to push weak shoots and few
flowers. (Soil No. 12.)

Cactus. This extensive genus is interesting, and varied
in character and habit ; it is now divided into seven distinct
genera, according to their natural appearance and disposi-
tion. We will describe a few of each genus, none of which
going under the name of Cactus, we will give them the
six following, premising that the time is not far distant
when this family will be successfully cultivated in every
parlour window, and the whole tribe will be sought for
with more avidity than any other class of plants that have
ever been brought to notice, not even excepting the Rose.
They require a dry heat, and will grow either in town or
country, and are completely adapted for the denizen ama-
teur, and will afford more beauty and interesting display
than can be imagined until witnessed.

Mamillarias, about seventy species, and are those which
are covered with roundish bearded tubercles, and with
small red and Avhite flowers. M. coccinea, M. simplex,
M. pusllla, M. cornea, M. stellata, and M. acanthophleg-
ma, are good species, and will do well with water once a
week during summer. (Soil No. 15.)

Melocactus, seven species, and are those that are roundish
with deep and many angles, with spines in clusters on the
top of the angle. M. commiinis is the Turk's cap, named
from having an ovate conate crown upon the top, from
which proceed the small red flowers. M. macranthus has
large spines ; M. pyramiddlis is a conical growing spe-
cies. These require the same treatment as the last. (Soil
No. 15.)

Echinocdtus, a great number of species; are those that
have many deep angles, and have a remarkable swelling,
with each parcel of spines ; E. gibbosus, E. crispatus, E.
recurvus, P. rodanthia, and E. scopa, are curious in ap-
pearance, with small white and purple flowers. These
three genera in most collections are not well known speci-
fically, but it is easy to discriminate with which genus they
are connected. (Soil No. 15.)

Cereus. This is the most magnificent genus with re-
gard to the magnitude and beauty of the flowers, but not
so closely allied in character. It takes in all those of a
trailing or erect growing habit, having spines in clusters,

156 HOT-HOUSE— OF REPOTTING, &C.

solitary, or spineless. C. senllis is the celebrated monkey
cactus. C. peruvianus and C. heptagonus grow very
erect, and to the height of thirty or forty feet in Peru and
Mexico, where they plant them close together as fences,
and they are in a few years impenetrable. C.flagelli-
formis is a well-known creeping flowering species, hasten
angles ; will keep in a good green-house, and produce in
May and June a great number of blooms. The petals are
of a fine pink and red colour ; the tube of the flower is
long, and will stand a few days in perfection, when others
come out successively for the space of two months, and
during their continuance make a brilliant appearance. C.
grandiflbrus is the celebrated " Night-blooming Cereus."
The flowers are very large, beautiful and sweet-scented.
They begin to open about sun-down, and are fully expand-
ed about eleven o'clock. The corolla, or rather calyx, is
from seven to ten inches in diameter, the outside of which
is a brown, and the inside a fine straw yellow colour ; the
petals are of the purest white, with the stamens surround-
ing the stile in the centre of the flower, which add to its
lustre, and make it appear like a bright star. Its scent is
agreeable, and perfumes the air to a considerable distance;
bat these beauties are of momentary duration. By sun-
rise they fade, and hang down quite decayed, and never
open again.* One of these ought to be in every collec-
tion, and, if trained up a naked wall, will not occupy much
room, and grow and flower profusely. C. mallisoni and C.
scoftii are nearly alike, and have beautiful scarlet flowers :
it has been gratuitously (to say the least of it) called " The
Scarlet Night-blooming Cereus." C. speciosissimus has
most beautiful large flowers, about six inches in diameter ;
the outside petals are a bright scarlet, those of the inside
a fine light purple. One flower lasts a few days, and a
large plant will produce every year from ten to fifty
flowers, and blooming from May to August. It has flow-
ered in some of our collections, and is highly esteemed.
C. triangularis has the largest flower of the Cactex family ;
the bloom is of a cream colour, and about one foot in dia-

* They may be preserved if cut off when in perfection, and put
in spirits of wine, in a glass vase, made air tight. A plant flow-
ered in our collection, in May, 1830, at 12 o'clock at noon— the
only instance of the kind we ever heard of.

May."} HOT-HOUSE — OF REPOTTING, &c. 157

meter. In its indigenous state it produces a fine fruit called
" Strawberry Pear," and is much esteemed in the West
Indies as being slightly acid, and, at the same time, sweet,
pleasant and cooling.

Epiphyllums are those species of the Cactese family
which have flat shoots, or leaves without spines ; from the
edges of those leaves the flowers are produced. They are
extensively cultivated for their profusion of bloom, and are
frequently grafted on Cereus trianguldris and Pereskia,
which greatly promotes their growth, and prevents them
from so easily damping off by over watering. The original
species are E. speciosum, pink ; E. phylanthoides or Hook-
erii, white; E. aldtum, white; E. truncdtum, scarlet;
flowers tubular, from two to three inches in diameter.
The plant is of a very dwarf growth, and much branched ;
when in bloom, it is o^uite a picture, and rendered more
beautiful when grafted. There is also a variety of it called
E. truncation *ftlfensteinii, the flower of which is rather
larger, and is more rosy coloured. E. Rmsellidnum is
quite a new species, but has not yet bloomed in our collec-
tions ; it is represented as being a beautiful large crimson,
and of the truncdta habits. E. Jlckermania has a magni-
ficent large crimson flower. Besides these, there are many
superb hybrid varieties, vying with any of the originals.
Among them are the following: E. Hibbertii, E. Hoodii,
E. Boydii, E. De vduxii, E. quillardittii, E. Feastii, E.
Vdndesii, E. Mayfly, E. elegantissima, and E. Naiperii,
and no doubt many other varieties and sub-varieties will
be continually making their appearance. All the Epi-
phyllum tribe require a very rich^open soil, not of too sandy
a nature, as they thereby grow to wood, and bloom but
sparingly — give plenty of drainage. (Soil No. 18.)

Opiintias, upwards of fifty species, and1 are those whose
branches are in thick joints, flat, oblong, or ovate ; spines
solitary or in clusters. Some of the plants are very desi-
rable for their singular appearance, and some of them, par-
ticularly O. cochinillifera, are valuable for feeding the Co-
chineal insect. O. microddsys, O. ferox, O. lacte-spina,
O. sericed, and some others, are beautiful plants, and will
grow in any kind of soil, but No. 2 will suit them best.

Pereskias. About four species, and those that are of a
shrubby nature, producing leaves ; P. antJedta bears a fruit
14

158 . HOT-HOUSE — OF REPOTTING, &C. [May.

called " Barbadoes-gooseberry." The flowers are very
small and simple, spines about half an inch long, leaves
fleshy and elliptical. (Soil No. 2.)

The whole of the plants in the family of Cactese require
very little water in winter, and delight in a dry, warm
situation. They do not agree with very frequent repot-
ting; once a year to young plants, and in two or three to
those that are established, with the exception of the large,
free flowering species, which should be repotted once in
two years, and never be allowed to shrink for want of
moisture.

The operation of grafting is very simple, merely requir-
ing an incision to be made, and fitting in it a fresh cutting
of another kind, holding the cutting stationary in the inci-
sion half a minute, till the juices of the two adhere toge-
ther, when it may be said the union is effected, and, in
a few weeks, the new branches will grow freely. We
have seen the Mammillaria tribe growing neatly upon the
triangidaris, and other species of the cereus.

Carissa, a genus of pretty little plants, particularly C.
spindntm, which bears a profusion of white flowers like a
jasmine. (Soil No. 4.)

Ceropegia elegans is the only species of any merit : it
is a thin growing, climbing plant, producing a great pro-
fusion of very curious flowers of a greenish colour, spotted
with brown; the interior and tips of the corolla are set
with hairs — it is of very easy culture. (Soil No. 7.)

Caryota. A genus of palms. C. urens is an admired
species, produces flowers in long pendulous spikes, which
are succeeded by strings of succulent globular berries. In
its native state it produces a sweet liquor in large quanti-
ties, and no stronger than water. (Soil No. 12.)

Caryophyllus aromdticus is the clove tree of commerce.
The whole plant is aromatic, and closely allied to Myrtus;
the flowers are in loose panicles, the leaves oblong, acumi-
nate, entire. It is a fine evergreen. Pots must be well
drained. (Soil No. 9.)

Cerberas. About twelve species of strong growing trees,
full of poisonous juice. C. thevetia is an elegant plant, with
acuminate leaves, and large, nodding, yellow, solitary fra-
grant flowers, proceeding from the axil; C. ahouai pro-
duces a nut which is deadly poison. C. odallatn, once C.

May.~] HOT-HOUSE — OF REPOTTING, &c. 159

manghas, has large star-like flowers, white, shaded with
red. They are principally East India plants, and require
great heat. (Soil No. 17.)

Clerodendrum. This genus contains some very beau-
tiful and fragrant plants; C. frdgrans JJore plena has a
very beautiful head of double white sweet-scented flowers,
and does tolerably well as a green-house plant; C. squa-
mdtum has very showy scarlet flowers. C. speciosissimum,
the plant so glaringly figured in some of the English peri-
odicals, is the same as C. squamdtum, a plant which has
been grown in this vicinity fifteen or twenty years. (Soil
No. 2.)

Coffea Arabica. It produces the celebrated coffee, and
is a plant universally known in our collections, and of easy
culture. The leaves are opposite, oblong, wavy and shin-
ing, the flowers white, of a grateful odour, but of a short
duration. (Soil No. 17.)

Combretums. Nine species of beautiful flowering climb-
ing plants, standing in very high estimation. The feaves
of the principal part of them are ovate, acute, flowers small,
but on large branches, the flowers all coming out on one
side of the branch. They have a magnificent effect. C.
elegans, red ; C. formosum, red and yellow ; C. pulchel-
lum, scarlet; C. comosum, have crimson flowers in tufts;
C, purpureum is the most splendid of the genus. It was
first cultivated in 1818, and so much admired that the
whole of the species, as soon as introduced, was extrava-
gantly bought up ; and none of them has retained their
character, except C. purpureum, which is now called
Poivrea coccinea. The flowers are bright scarlet, in large
branches, blooming profusely from April to September, and
flower best in a pot. When planted in the ground, it
grows too much to wood, carrying a few flowers. This
plant ought to be in every hot-house. (Soil No. 13.)

Coryphas, (Large fan Palm,) five species of the most
noble and magnificent of palms. C. ambraculifera, the
fronds or leaves are palmate. In Ceylon, where the tree
is indigenous, they are frequently found fifteen feet wide
and twenty feet long. Knox says they will cover from
fifteen to twenty men, and, when dried, will fold up in the
shape of a rod, and can be easily carried about, and serve
to protect them from the scorching sun. C. taliera, now

160 HOT-HOUSE OF REPOTTING, &C. [May.

Taliera bengalensis, being stronger, is of great utility for
covering houses. They do not grow to such immense
extent in artificial cultivation, but require large houses to
grow them. (Soil No. 12.)

Crinums, about one hundred species, chiefly stove bulbs,
many of them beautiful. Those that are of great celebrity
are C. erubescens, pink ; C. scabrum, crimson and white ;
C. amabile, purple and white ; the neck of the bulb of the
latter is long, is easily distinguished by its purplish colour,
and is unquestionably the finest of the genus. Several
specimens of it are in our collections. Their flowers are
in umbels, on a stalk about three feet high ; corolla funnel-
shaped ; petals recurved ; nearly fifty flowers on each stem,
and a good plant will produce three stems in one year.
They require large pots to make them flower well, and,
when growing, should be liberally supplied with water.
(Soil No. 12.)

Crotons. About twenty-eight species, few of them de-
serving cultivation; but the genus is celebrated for its beau-
tiful C. pictus, leaves oblong-lanceolate, variegated .with
yellow, and stained with red, flowers small green, or axil-
lary spikes. C. variegatus, variety latifolia, is finer than
the original variegatus; the nerves in the leaves are yel-
low, and the leaves lanceolate, entire, and smooth. To
make them grow freely, give them the warmest part of the
hot-house, and drain the pots well. (Soil No. 13.)

Cycas, four species, generally called Sago palm, as an
English name. The plant from which Sago is extracted
belongs to another genus, (see Sagus.} C. revoluta is a
well known palm, and will keep perfectly well in the
green-house. We have seen a beautiful specimen of it
which is kept every winter in the cellar ; but those that are
kept so cool in winter only grow every alternate year, while
those that are kept in the hot-house grow every year, which
shows that heat is their element. C. drdnulis is a large
growing species ; the fronds are much longer, but not so
close and thick. C. glauca is a fine species; the foliage
is slightly glaucous. They require plenty of pot room, are
much infested with the small white scaly insect, and ought
to be frequently examined and carefully washed as pre-
scribed in January. (Soil No. 12.)

Cypripedium insigne is a very beautiful nepal species

May."} HOT-HOUSE — OF REPOTTING, &c. 161

of this curious Ladies' slipper plant. The flowers have a
waxy appearance, and very much in shape of an Indian
shoe ; the colours are green and purple : it likes a moist,
half shaded situation. (Soil No. 16.)

Cyrtoceras reflexa, or Hoya coriacea, a new dwarf wax-
plant of magnificent appearance, either for foliage or bloom,
which it produces in great profusion from the axils of
almost every leaf; it is a native of Manilla ; it grows freely
in Soil No. 13.

Dracaenas, Dragon-tree, about twelve species of Asiatic
plants, varied in character. D. Ferrea is plentiful in our
collections, and will keep in the green-house ; but the foli-
age is not so well retained as when kept in the hot-house :
the leaves are lanceolate, acute, of a dark crimson colour.

D. termindlis, striped leaved ; D.fragrans, when in bloom,
will scent the air for a considerable distance, leaves green
and lanceolate. D. margindta is rare, yet it is to be seen
in a few of our collections. D. stricta is now Charlwoodia*
stricta, flowers blush, and in loose panicles. D. Draco is
admired, and the most conspicuous of the genus. (Soil
No. 11.)

Erdnthemums, about ten species. E. pulchellum and

E. bicolor are the finest of the genus ; the former is in our
collections. Plenty of heat is indispensable to make it
flower in perfection ; therefore it should have the warmest
part of the house, and it will produce flowers of a fine blue
colour from December to April. The flowers of the latter
are white and dark purple, with a few brown spots in the
white; blooms from April to August. Drain the pots well,
and give the plants little sun during summer. (Soil No.
11.)

Eugenias, about thirty species, esteemed for their hand-
some evergreen foliage. This genus once contained a few
celebrated species, which have been divided. (See Jam-
bosa.} The Allspice tree, known as Myrtus Pimenta, is
now E. Pimenta; the leaves are ovate, lanceolate, and,
when broken, have an agreeable scent. There are several
varieties, all of the same spicy fragrance. The plant is in
very few of our collections. E.fragrans is sweet-scented ;

• * In honour of Mr. Chart wood, an extensive seedsman of London,
who has made several botanical excursions on this continent.

u*

168 HOT-HOUSE—- OF REPOTTING, &C. \Ma\).

the flowers are on axillary peduncles ; leaves ovate, obtuse.
(Soil No. 11.)

Euphorbia, (spurge,) a genus of plants disseminated over
every quarter of the globe ; a few are beautiful, many gro-
tesque, and several the most worthless weeds on the earth.
There are about two hundred species, and from all of them,
when probed, a thick milky fluid exudes. Those of the
tropics are the most curious, and very similar in appear-
ance to Cactus, but easily detected by the above perfora-
tion. There is a magnificent species in our collections,
which was lately introduced from Mexico— (see Poinset-
tia.) E. splendens flowers freely from December to May,
and is of easy culture. E.fiilgens,same asjaquiniifldra,
is a plant of a slender willow-looking habit, but produces a
profusion of flowers from the axil of each leaf, which ren-
ders it very showy. The flowers of the whole genus are
apetalous, and the beauty of those described is in a brilliant
scarlet bractea, which is very persistent. They must have
plenty of pot-room. (Soil No. 9.)

Erythrinas, (Coral tree,) a genus containing about thirty
species of leguminose, scarlet-flowering plants. Several
species are greatly esteemed for their beauty and profusion
of flowers, which, in well-established plants, are produced
in long spikes. E. corallodendrum blooms magnificently
in the West Indies, but in our collections has never flow-
ered. Perhaps if it were kept dry during its dormant
season, which is from November to January, and when
growing greatly encouraged, it might produce flowers. E.
speciosa is a splendid flowerer, leaves large, ternated, and
prickly beneath; stem prickly. E. pubescens is valued
for its large peculiar brown pubescent leaves. E. princeps
is quite a new species, and is represented as being the
finest of all the Erythrinas, and exhibits its rich crimson
flowers in great profusion ; to make them grow well and
bloom freely, they require plenty of pot-room; indeed,
while in a growing state, they should be repotted every
month. In regard to E. herbdcea, which is a native of the
Carolinas, and frequently treated as a hot-house plant, it is
our opinion that it would be more perfectly grown if planted
about the first of the month in the garden ; and, when grow-
ing, if well supplied with water, it would flower from July
to September. About the first of November lift the roots

May.'] HOT-HOUSE — OF REPOTTING, &c. 163

and preserve them in half dry earth. E. laurifblia and

E. cristagdlli are likewise often treated as hot-house plants,
and in such situations they cast prematurely their first
flowers by the confined state of the air. They will keep
in perfect preservation during winter in a dry cellar, half
covered with earth, or entirely covered with half dry earth ;
consequently, the hest and easiest method of treatment is,
to plant them in the garden about the first of May, and,
when growing, if the ground becomes dry, give them fre-
quent waterings. They will flower profusely, three or four
times in the course of the summer.

We freely recommend the last species to all our patrons,
confident that it will give ample satisfaction, both in profu-
sion of flower and beauty of colour. The soil they are to
be planted into should be rich and well pulverized ; or, if
they are kept in pots, they must be enlarged three or four
times, when they are in a growing state, to make them
flower perfectly ; otherwise they will be diminutive. (Soil
No. 13.)

Ficus, Fig-tree, a genus containing about fifty hot-house
species, besides several that belong to the green-house:
greatly admired for the beauty of their foliage. A few of
them are deciduous, and all of the easiest culture. We
have seen plants of J1. eldstica hung in the back of the hot-
house, without the smallest particle of earth, their only
support being sprinklings of water every day. F. brdssii
and F. macrophylla are the finest-looking species that have
come under our observation ; the leaves of both are very
large and shading, occupying considerable space. In small
collections F. indlca and F, nitida are desirable ; F. repens
is a climbing plant. (Soil No. 13.)

Franciscea, a ne\v genus of plants from South America,
containing about four species of profuse blooming plants.

F. Hopeana and F. latifolia are generally known; the
latter possesses all the combined fragrance of the jasmine
and jonquil ; the flowers are one inch in diameter, of a
rich purple fading to pure white, and blooms the whole
winter. (Soil No. 9.)

Gardenias, a genus containing about seventeen species,
several of them very popular in our collections, going under
the name of Cape Jasmine, which do well in the green-
house, (see May.) The species requiring this department,

164 HOT-HOUSE— OF REPOTTING, &C. [May.

and deserving attention, are G. campanulata, of a soft
woody nature, with ovate, acuminate leaves ; flowers of a
straw colour, and solitary ; G. amaena, the flowers are white,
tinged with crimson, terminal and solitary, but seldom
bloom ; G. costata, admired for its beautiful ribbed foli-
age; G. lucida has a handsome, ovate, acuminate, shining
foliage, flowers white and solitary ; they require to have
the pots well drained. (Soil No. 13.)

Geissomeria longiflbra. This is a new genus, and
closely allied to Ruellia. The species alluded to, is a free
flowerer, blooming from January to May, in close spikes of
a scarlet colour; leaves opposite, ovate, elongate, and shin-
ing ; the plants must be well drained, and in summer kept
from the direct influence of the sun. (Soil No. 2.)

Heliconia braziliensis. This very splendid plant is
nearly related to Strelilzia, and in splendour surpasses it.
The brilliant scarlet sheath that envelops the flowers, con-
trasts most admirably with its rich green leaves. Give
plenty of drainage to the pots, and, when the plants are
growing, give a liberal supply of water. (Soil No. 17.)

Helitropiums, about twelve species, of little merit, except
H. peruvianum, H. corymbosum, and H. grandiflorum ;
these are all very agreeably scented, especially the former,
which is a universal favourite. (Soil No. 3.)

Heritiera littoralis, looking-glass plant. This plant is
unisexual, has beautiful large, ovate, veiny leaves ; the
flowers are small, red, with male and female on the same
plant, but different flowers. It requires a strong heat and
plenty of pot-room. How the English name becomes ap-
plicable to it, we are not acquainted.

Hibiscus. This genus affords many fine species and
varieties of plants for the hot-house, besides others for
every department of the garden. The most popular in our
collections of the hot-house, is H. rosa sinensis, with its
varieties, which are magnificent, and flower profusely from
February to September. The single or original species is
also beautiful; the varieties are H. rosa sinensis rubro
plenus, double red; H. r. s. cdrnea plenus, double salmon;
H. r. s. variegdtus, double striped ; striped on the back of
the outside petals ; H. r. s. fldva-plenus, or cornea, double
buff; H. r. s. lutea plenus, double yellow, or rather sul-
phur. The plants grow freely, and produce their flowers

May.~] HOT-HOUSE — OF REPOTTING, &c. 165

three or four inches in diameter, from the young wood; the
leaves are ovate, acuminate, smooth, entire at the base,
and coarsely teethed at the end. All the varieties are of
the same character, and highly deserving of a situation
in every collection. There is said to be a double white
variety, which we doubt. H. mutabilis fibre, plena is a
splendid plant, of strong growth, and will, when well esta-
blished, flower abundantly, if the wood of last year is cut
to within a few eyes of the wood of the previous year ; the
flowers are produced on the young wood, and come out a
pale colour, and change to bright red, and about the size
of a garden Provins rose ; leaves downy, cordate, angular,
five-lobed, acuminate, and slightly indented. H. lillii-
florus is a new highly esteemed species ; the flowers are
various in colour, being pink, blush, red, and purple. The
leaves vary in character, but are generally cordate, crenate,
acuminate ; the petioles are brown, and the whole slightly
hirsute ; is deciduous, and requires to be kept in the warm-
est part of the house. (Soil No. 9.)

Hoyas, wax-plant, seven species. All of them are
climbing succulents, requiring plenty of heat and little
water. H. carnosa is the finest flowering species of the
genus, and known in our collections as the wax-plant ; the
leaves are green and fleshy ; the flowers are mellifluous,
five-parted, and in pendulous bunches, slightly bearded,
and have every appearance of a composition of the finest
wax ; of a blush colour. H. crassifolia has the best-look-
ing foliage, and the flowers are white. The former will
keep in the green-house, but will not flower so profusely.
(Soil No. 2.)

Ipomaeas, a genus of tropical climbing plants, nearly allied
to Convolvulus, but of greater beauty. /. Jdlapa is the
true jalap of the druggists, but not worthy of any other
remark. /. Horsfdllia has brilliant rosy crimson flowers,
which it is almost entirely covered with from December to
May. /. rugosa has a profusion of large rosy lilac flowers.
/. multiflora, blush and lilac. /. Learii produces a profu-
sion of large blue flowers ; they are all very showy and
beautiful ornaments for either the hot-house or the flower
garden. (Soil No. 13.)

Ismene amancaes, or Pancratium amdncaes. This pro-
fuse yellow flowering bulb is richly deserving of cultiva-

166 HOT-HOUSE-^-OF REPOTTING, &C. [May.

tion, and should be kept in the house all summer, repotting
it as-often as the roots touch the interior side of the pot,
giving it plenty of water when in a growing state; but
when dormant, it must be kept dry till it offers to grow :
when well treated, it will bloom repeatedly during summer.
(Soil No. 12.)

Ixoras, a genus of fine flowering plants, and does ex-
tremely well in our collections in comparison to the state
they are grown in England. The genus specifically is
much confused among us, either from error originating
with those who packed them for this country, or after they
have arrived. /. purpurea, leaves oblong, ovate, blunt;
flowers crimson ; it is now called /. obovuta. I. crocata,
leaves oval, lanceolate, narrowing toward the stem, smooth
underside of the leaf; the nerves are very perceptible ; flow-
ers saffron-coloured, arid very profuse. /. rosea, leaves
large, regular, oblong, a little acute, very distant on the
wood, central nerve strong ; flowers rose-coloured in large
corymbs, branching finely ; /. bandhuca, leaves very close
to the stem, ovate, acuminate ; nerves straight, middle
nerve stronger than any other of the genus ; flowers scarlet.
/. bldnda, leaves small, lanceolate, ovate ; flowers blush,
cymes branching in three. /. dichotima, leaves largest of
the genus, ovate, acuminate, undulate footstalk three-
eighths of an inch long ; whereas, none of the leaves of the
other species have footstalks of any length ; it is now called
/. undulata; flowers are white. /. grandiflora, leaves
ovate, elongate, sessile ; flowers scarlet, in crowded round
corymbs ; is called I. coccinea in the Botanical Magazine,
by which it is known in our collections, and we think is
the same as L stricta. I. flammta and 1. spedosa. I.
fulgens, same as /. longifolia and /. lanceolata; foliage
glossy ; flowers scarlet. /. Pavetta, the flowers are white
and sweet-scented, the leaves of all the species are oppo-
site ; there are a few other species that we are not thoroughly
acquainted with, but have been thus explicit to prevent
error as far as possible in this beautiful genus. They are
all evergreen, low growing shrubs; the plants grow best in
Jersey black sandy earth, but flower most abundantly with
Soil No. 10.

Jambosas, about twelve species, which have been prin-
cipally taken from Eugenia, and contains its finest plants,

May.~] HOT-HOUSE — OF REPOTTING, &c. 167

and is a splendid genus of evergreen shrubs. E. Jdmbos
is now Jambosa vulgaris, which flowers and fruits freely
in our hot-houses. The fruit is about an inch in diameter,
eatable, and smelling like a rose, hence called " Rose
Apple." The petals of all the species are simple, and
may rather be considered the calyx ; the beauty of the
flowers is in the many erect spreading stamens, either
straw, white, rose, or green colour. J. malaccensis, Malay
Apple, is greatly esteemed for the delightful fragrance of
its fruit. We frequently see J. purpurdscens, which is a
native of the West Indies, going under J. m., which is an
Asiatic species, with white flowers and entire oblong leaves ;
whereas, the leaves of /. p. are small, ovate, acuminate ;
the young shoots and leaves are purple. J. macrophylla,
white, and J. amplexicaulis, green, have very large ob-
long, lanceolate leaves, and are of a strong, woody habit.
They are all easy of culture. (Soil No. 11.)

Jasminum, Jasmine, is a favourite genus of shrubs, for
the exquisite fragrance of its flowers, of which none are
more delightful than J. sambac or Arabian Jasmine. There
are two other varieties of it, J. s. multiplex, perfectly
double; and /. s. trifolialum, double Tuscan Jasmine.
The latter requires a great heat to make it grow and flower
freely. There is also a semi-double variety in cultivation.
J. hirsiitum has cordate downy leaves ; flowers many, in
terminal sessile umbels. /. paniculatum, white, flowering in
terminal panicles from March to November ; leaves smooth,
oval, obtusely acuminate ; plant scarce. J. simplicifdlium
is in our collections under the name of J. lucidum; plant
spreading; leaves oblong and shining. .7. multiflorum is
a profusely flowering and beautiful species. There are
several others, all with white flowers, and generally easy
of culture. (Soil No. 11.)

Jdtropha, Physic-nut, is a genus of six strong growing
shrubs, natives of the West Indies. J. multifida and «/.
panduraefblia have the handsomest foliage, and both have
scarlet flowers : the appearance of the foliage of this genus
is the only object : the flowers are small, in coarse disfig-
ured panicles, and several of the species have not been
known to flower in artificial cultivation. The seeds of J.
curcas are often received from the West Indies; the leaves
are cordate, angular and smooth. /. manihot, now Ma-

168 HOT-HOUSE— OF REPOTTING, &C. \_May.

nihot cannablna, is the Cassada root, the juice of which,
when expressed, is a strong poison. They are all easy of
culture: want of strong heat in winter will make them
cast their leaves, but does them no other injury. (Soil No.

Justida. A few species of this genus are fine showy
hot-house plants. J. coccinea has large terminal spikes of
scarlet flowers, blooming from December to March, and is
a very desirable plant, of easy culture, and should be in
every collection; it is apt to grow spindley, if not kept
near the glass. L picta, with its varieties, /. ludda and
/. calyctricha, are fine shrubby species. /. speciosa is
a beautiful profuse purple flowering plant. (Soil No. 11.)

Ksempferia, an Asiatic genus of tuberose rooted plants ;
none of them in our collections, except K. rotunda; the
flowers come up a few inches above the pot, without the
leaves, in April and May, and frequently sooner; they are
purple and light blue, partially streaked and spotted ; leaves
large, oblong, purplish-coloured beneath. The roots, when
dormant, ought to be kept in the pot without watering,
otherwise they will not flower freely. No bulbs nor strong
tuberose rooted plants will flower in perfection if kept moist
when they are not growing. (Soil No. 17.)

Lantana, a genus of twenty species, all free-flowering
shrubs; the flowers are small, in round heads blooming
from the axils, in yellow, orange, pink, white and changea-
ble colours; principally of a rough straggling growth, and
are not esteemed. However, L. selldi, light purple; L.
mutabilis, yellow, orange and pink ; L. bicolor, white and
pink, and L. fucdta (or Dougldsii of some), lilac and
white. These are very handsome growing plants, and
will even keep in a good green-house ; but in such case
will only bloom in summer. They will not bear a strong
fumigation; therefore, when the hot-house is under that
operation, they must be set down in the pathway, or other
low part in the house. (Soil No. 9.)

Latanias. This genus contains three species of hand-
some palms. L. barbonica is one of the finest of the
Palmse, not growing to great magnitude ; the leaves or
fronds are plaited flabelliform, leaflets smooth at the edge,
footstalk spiny, and the plant spreading. L. r libra, fronds
same as the former, but leaflets more divided and serru-
late ; footstalk unarmed : foliage reddish. L. glattcophylfa,

May.~] HOT-HOUSE— -OF REPOTTING, &e. 169

same as L. riibra, only the foliage glaucous. They are
all valuable plants, and are obtained by seed from the East
Indies. They require plenty of pot room. (Soil No. 12.)

Laurus. This genus, though of no beauty in flower, is
generally admired in collections for its fine evergreen foli-
age, and aromatic or spicy flavour, and several trees are
important in medicine. The most esteemed are given to
a genus named Cinnamomum, as has been observed in the
green-house, (see March.) L. Chloroxylcn is the Cogwood
of Jamaica. L. persea is now Persea gratissima, Alliga-
tor-pear, a fruit about the size of a large pear, and greatly
esteemed in the West Indies ; the plant is generally known
in our collections. C. verum is the true Cinnamon of
commerce.

The part taken is the inside of Uie bark when the tree is
from five to eighteen years old. The leaves are three-
nerved, ovate, oblong ; nerves vanishing toward the point,
bright green above, pale beneath, with whitish veins.
This plant ought to be kept in the warmest part of the
hot-house. C. cassia is frequently given under the former
name, but, when compared, may be easily detected by the
leaves being more lanceolate and a little pubescent. They
both make handsome plants, but require great heat.
Drain the pots well of the delicate sorts. (Soil No. 13.)

Magnifera, Mango tree. There are two species. M.
indica is in our collections, and bears a fruit which is so
highly esteemed in the East Indies, as to be considered
preferable to any other except very fine pine apples. The
leaves are lanceolate, and from six to eight inches long, and
two or more broad. The flowers are produced in loose
bunches at the end of the branches, but of no beauty, and
have to be artificially impregnated, or it will scarcely pro-
duce fruit. The shell is kidney-shaped, and of a leathery
crustaceous substance. They contain one seed, and in
their indigenous state are more juicy than an apple.
Drain the pots well, as the roots are apt to get sodden from
moisture. The other species goes under the name of op-
positifolia, but we question if if is not only a variety, for
it has every character of the one just described. (Soil No.
11.)

Malpighia, (Barbadoes-cherry,) about eighteen species,
all beautiful evergreen trees or shrubs. They are easily
15

170 HOT-HOUSE— OF REPOTTING, &C. [May.

distinguished by having bristles on the underside of the
leaves. These bristles are fixed by the centre, so that
either end of it will sting. We are not aware of any other
plant being defended in this manner. M. urens has oblong,
ovate leaves, with decumbent stiff bristles ; flowers pink.
M, aquifolia has lanceolate, stiff, spiny leaves, and we think
the most beautiful foliage of the genus. M. fucdta has
elliptical shining leaves, with lilac flowers. M. gldbra,
leaves ovate, entire, smooth; flowers purple. They all
have five rounded clawed petals. The last species is cul-
tivated in the West Indies for its fruit. The pots must be
well drained. (Soil No. 17.)

Merica, a genus of hot-house plants, closely allied to
Iris, between which there is no distinction in the leaves.
The flowers of M. coeriilea are beautifully spotted with
light and dark blue, the scape many-flowered. M. Sab\ni
has flowers similar, but not so dark in colour. M. North-
idna has splendid white and brown spotted flowers, spathe
two-flowered. These plants, when growing, require a
liberal supply of water, and should be greatly encouraged
by frequent potting, to flower well. (Soil No. 12.^

Meldstoma was once an extensive genus, on which the
natural order Melastomacese is founded ; but is now much
divided into other genera contained in the natural tribe
Micomese. There are about thirteen species remaining in
the genus. They now display great unity of character,
and many of them may be considered very ornamental.
The finest are M. heteromalla, bluish purple, and an abun-
dant bloomer; M. malabdthrica, rose-coloured; M. son-
guinea, lilac ; M. splendens, large violet ; and M. dspera,
rose. There is a plant in several of our collections known
as M. purpurea and M. tetragona, which is Osssea pur-
purdscens ; leaves ovate, lanceolate, acuminate, five-nerved,
pilose; the footstalk and nerves underside of the leaf
covered with brown hairs; stem four-sided; flowers pur-
ple. All the species are easy of culture. M. nepalensis
is a green-house plant. (Soil No. 1.)

Mandevilla Suaveolens,or Chili Jasmine: this beautiful
climber is a native of South America ; the flowers are in
clusters and nearly bell-shaped, white, and of exquisite fra-
grance ; the bloom is produced on the extremity of the
shoots. After the flowering season the plants should be

May.'] HOT-HOUSE — OF REPOTTING, &c. 171

pruned back to within a few eyes of the preceding year's
wood. (Soil No. 13.)

Musa, (Plantain tree,) contains eight species, and is
greatly esteemed in the East and West Indies for the
luscious sweet flavour of its fruit, which can be converted
into every delicacy in the domestic cookery of the country.
M. paradisiaca is the true plantain tree, has a soft herbace-
ous stalk, fifteen or twenty feet high, with leaves from five
to seven feet long, and about two feet wide. M. sapientum
is the true banana tree ; habit and character same as the
former, except it has a spotted stem, and the male flowers
are deciduous. The pulp of the fruit is softer, and the
taste more luscious. M. roscicea, M. coccinea, and M. chi-
nensis, are more esteemed in artificial cultivation for their
flowers, and for being smaller in growth. M. Cavendishii
produces immense clusters of ripe and well-flavoured fruit,
plants only four feet and a half high ; will yearly produce
about eighty pounds. M. ddcca is another dwarf species,
and in 1838 ripened a cluster of fruit in the Royal Bo-
tanic Gardens of Edinburgh, which weighed fifty pounds.
These dwarf Bananas are now being cultivated in Europe
expressly for their fruit, which is very delicious when per-
fectly ripened. They are Chinese plants, and will soon
be introduced into the West India Islands, where they will
entirely supplant the large varieties.

Myrtus Pimenta, or, more properly, Pimenta Vulgdris,
is the Jamaica pepper or allspice ; there is no beauty in the
flowers — the leaves are highly aromatic, and it is a hand-
some evergreen. (Soil No. 9.)

Nepenthes, (Pitcher-plant.) There are two species of
this plant. JV. distillatoria is an esteemed and valuable
plant in European collections, and we are not aware of
there being any in this country, except in Philadelphia.
The leaves are lanceolate and sessile ; from their extremity
there is a spiral, attached to which are long inflated append-
ages that are generally half full of water, which appears to
be confined within them by a lid with which the append-
ages are surmounted; hence the name of pitcher plant.
We have never observed the lids close again when once
open. Writers have called it an herbaceous plant, but it
is properly a climbing shrub. The pot in which it grows
should be covered with moss, and the roots liberally sup-

172 HOT-HOUSE— OF REPOTTING, &C.

plied with water every day. It delights to he in a moist
state. The flowers are small, and in long spikes. The
plant is of easy culture, and even rapid in growth : a plant
with us, only nineteen months old, is now five feet high.
(Soil No. 5.)

Pancratium is a genus of hot-house bulbs, and now only
contains five species. They are all free-flowering. Seve-
ral of them are handsome and fragrant. P. maritimum
and P. vereciindum are the finest ; the flowers are white,
in large umbels ; petals long, recurved, and undulate. P.
littoralis, P. speciosum, and P. caribseum, are now given
to the genus Hymenocallis, and are fine flowering species.
Care must be taken not to give them water while dormant.
The soil ought at that time to be in a half dry state. They
are in flower from May to August. (Soil No. 12.)

Pandanus, Screw Pine. There are about twenty species
in this genus, several of them very interesting, but none so
greatly admired as P. odoralissimus. The leaves in esta-
blished plants are from four to six feet long, on the back
and edges spiny; are spreading, imbricated, and embracing
the stem, and placed in three spiral rows upon it. The
top soon becomes heavy when the plant throws out prongs
one, two, or three feet up the stem in an oblique descending
direction, which take root in the ground, and thus become
perfectly supported. It is cultivated in Japan for its de-
lightful fragrance, and it is said, "of all the perfumes, it is
by far the richest and most powerful." P. utilis, red
spined. We question this species, and are inclined to be-
lieve that it is the former, only when the plants are newly
raised from seed, the spines and leaves are red, changing
to green as they become advanced in age. The plants
are easy of culture, and will grow almost in any soil. (Soil
No. 12.)

Passiflora, "Passion-Flower, so named on account of its
being supposed to represent in the appendages of its flower
the Passion of Jesus Christ." There are about fifty spe-
cies, all climbing plants, that belong to the hot-house. Many
are of no ordinary beauty; a few species are odoriferous;
others bear edible fruits, though not rich in flavour. P.
aluta is in our collections, and greatly admired ; the flowers
are red, blue, and white, beautifully contrasted, and flower
profusely in pots. P. racemosa, red flower. P. cceruleo-

May.~] HOT-HOUSE — OF REPOTTING, &c. 173

racemosa, purple. P. quadrangularis has beautiful red
and white flowers. The plant is in several collections, but
has seldom flowered; it requires to be planted in the ground
to make it flower freely, and it will also produce fruit. P.
picturuta is a scarce and beautiful various-coloured species.
P. kermesina, bright rosy crimson, and, beyond all ques-
tion, the most profuse flowering species now in cultivation,
and will do well in a good green-house. P. Loudonii,
bright crimson; P. edulis is cultivated for its fruit. There
are many other fine species, but these are the most es-
teemed sorts; and, when well established, will flower pro-
fusely from May to August. They are desirable in every
collection, and will take only a small space to hold them,
by training the vines up the rafters of the hot-house. (Soil
No. 13.)

Phoenix, Date-palm, about eight species, principally
Asiatic plants. The foliage is not so attractive as many
others of the palm family, but it is rendered interesting by
producing a well-known fruit called Date. P. dactylifera
will do very well in a common green-house. In Arabia,
Upper Egypt, and Barbary, it is much used in domestic
economy. P. paludosa has the most beautiful foliage,
and the best habit. The flowers are dioecious. (Soil No.
12.)

Plumbago rosea is a pretty free-blooming plant, with
continued profusion of red flowers ; it requires plenty of
heat and a good drainage. (Soil No. 11.)

Plumerias, above twenty species. Plants of a slow
growth, robust nature, and are deciduous. The foliage is
greatly admired. The plants are shy to flower, but are
brilliant in colour. P. acuminata has lanceolate, acute
leaves, flowers corymbose and terminal. P. tricolor has
oblong, acute, veiny leaves ; corolla red, yellow and white.
This and P. rubrd are the finest of the genus. They
ought not to get any water while not in a growing state.
(Soil No. 11.)

Poinsettia* pulcherrlma. When well cultivated, this

* Named by Professor Graham, of Edinburgh, in compliment
to the Hon. J. R. Poinsett, (late secretary of war,) who intro-
duced the plant in 1828 to this country from Mexico, while he was
Minister Plenipotentiary to that Republic. He also, at the same
time, introduced a rich and valuable collection of Cactza.
15*

174 HOT-HOUSE— OF REPOTTING, &C. [May.

is truly the most magnificent of all the tropical plants we
have ever seen ; from December to April it is crowned with
flowers, surrounding which, are bright scarlet whorls of
bractese, frequently measuring twenty-two inches in dia-
meter. To grow it to such perfection, we treat it as fol-
lows : in April we cut the young wood down to within two
inches of the wood of the preceding year, and reduce the
ball of earth, putting it into a smaller pot. About the end
of May we plant it in the open ground, in light rich soil,
giving it one of two waterings after planting. During
summer it will grow three or four feet ; about the end of
September, it is carefully lifted and potted into a large-
sized pot, and put into the hot-house, carefully shading it
for a few days — when it requires no more attention except
a regular supply of water, and to be kept in a temperature
of from 55° to 75°. There is also a pale yellow bracteced
variety; but we are not aware of its being for sale in this
country. When the plant is grown in pots during sum-
mer, it must be repotted every month to encourage its
rapid growth. (Soil No. 18.)

Polyspbra axilldris, once called Camellia axillaris,
though in appearance it has no characteristic of a Camellia,
and has been frequently killed in the green-house by being
too cold for its nature ; leaves oblong, obovate, toward the
extremity serrulate. The leaves on the young wood are
entire. Flowers white; petals a little notched. It is
worthy of a situation in every collection. (Soil No. 11.)

Pterospermum, five species of plants that have very
curiously constructed flowers, of a white colour, and fra-
grant; the foliage is of a brown rusty nature, and, before
expansion, silvery-like. P. suberifolium is in several of
our collections, and esteemed. P. semisagittatum has
fringed bractsea ; leaves oblong, acuminate, entire, sagittate
on one side. (Soil No. 11.)

Rhdpis, a genus of palms that will grow very freely with
heat and room at the roots. R.flabelliformis is an erect
growing palm, with a spreading head. It is a native of
China. (Soil No. 12.)

Rondeletia speciosa is a new and rare plant, in every re-
spect equal, if not superior, to Ixora coccinea; its large
corymbs of orange-red flowers have a very striking appear-

May.'] * HOT-HOUSE — OF REPOTTING, &c. 175

ance, and it is easily cultivated in soil No. 1. It should
have frequent repottings when growing.

Ruellia. There are a few species, very pretty free-flow-
ering plants, of easy culture. R. formosa, flowers long,
of a tine scarlet colour ; plant half shrubby. R.fulgida has
bright scarlet flowers on axillary long stalked fascicles. R.
persicifolia, with unequal leaves and light blue flowers, is
now called R. anisophylla. (Soil No. 10.)

Russeliajuncea, a slender plant of an upright habit, pro-
ducing, when well-grown, a profusion of scarlet tubular
flowers, about one inch long each: it is of the easiest cul-
ture in soil No. 19.

Sagus, Sago-palm. We are of opinion that the true
palm from which the sago of the shops is produced, has
not been introduced into our collections. It is very rare
in the most extensive collections of Europe, but it is not so
fine a plant as the one we have under the Sago, which is
placed in the natural orcfer of Cycadese; and Sagus is in
that of Palmse. The finest of this genus is S. vinifera
and S. Rumphii. They grow to a great height ; even in
artificial cultivation they may be seen from ten to twenty-
five feet. We have not introduced them here for their
beauty, but to prevent error. (Soil No. 12.)

Soldndra, a genus of four species, remarkable for the
extraordinary size of their flowers, and are considered
beautiful. S. grandiflora and £ viridiflora are the best
two. The plants will bloom well if they are restricted in
pot room, and are only introduced as being worthy of cul-
tivation. If they are repotted once in two or three years,
it is sufficient, except where the plants are small and want
encouragement. (Soil No. 13.)

Strelitzia, a splendid genus of noble-looking plants, all
of which do perfectly well in the green-house, except S.
augusta, the flowers of which are pure white ; the leaves
are very large, being nearly six feet long and eighteen
inches wide, and assume the appearance of the Banana
tree: it requires great space for its roots. (Soil No. 12.)

Stephanotus florabimdus, a new and splendid evergreen
climber, with dark green thick leaves like a luxuriant wax-
plant, producing large bunches of pure white fragrant
flowers ; of easy culture in soil No. 13.

Swietenia, (Mahogany tree,) the wood of which is cel«-

176 HOT-HOUSE— OF REPOTTING, &C. [May.

brated in cabinet-work. 'S. mahogoni, common. This tree
varies much in general appearance, according to soil and
situation. The leaves are pinnated in four pairs; leaflets
ovate, lanceolate ; flowers small, white, in axillary panicles.
S.fubrifiiga, leaves pinnated, in four pairs ; leaflets ellip-
tical; flowers white, in terminal panicles. The wood of
the last is the most durable of any in the East Indies.
They are fine plants, and require heat and pot room to pro-
duce flowers. (Soil No. 15.)

Tabernzemontana, a genus of little beauty, except for
one or two species. A plant known in some collections as
Nerium coronarium, is now, and properly, T. coronaria.
The variety flore pleno is the one most deserving of cul-
ture, and will flower profusely from May to August ; the
flowers are double white, fragrant and divaricating. The
plant will lose its foliage if not kept in a strong heat ;
therefore place it in the warmest part of the hot-house. T.
densiftora is a fine species, but very rare. Drain all the
plants well, and keep them in the shade during summer.

T'ecoma, a genus of plants closely allied to Bignonia, and
are free-flowering; several of them much esteemed. T.
mollis, T. digitdta, and T. splendida, are the most beau-
tiful of those that belong to the hot-house. They have
large orange-coloured, tubular, inflated, ringent flowers, in
loose panicles. There is a plant known in our collections
as Bignonia stdns, which is now T. stdns; has pinnated
leaves, with oblong, lanceolate, serrated leaflets; flowers in
simple terminal, raceme, and of a yellow colour, and some-
times known by Ash-leaved Bignonia. It will always
have a sickly aspect, if not wrell encouraged in light rich
soil. Drain the pots well, as much moisture disfigures the
foliage. (Soil No. 10.)

Thrinax parviflora is a fine dwarf palm of the West
Indies, with palmated fronds, plaited with stiff, lanceolate
segments. The plant is of easy cultivation, and will grow
in"any soil. (Soil No. 12.)

Thunbergia, a genus containing six climbing plants of
a half shrubby nature. Some of them have a fragrant
odour. T. coccinea, red; T. grandiftora, blue; T. frd-
grans, white sweet scented ; T. aldta has pretty buff and
purple flowers, which are in great profusion. The latter
makes a very pretty annual in the flower garden, with its

May.~} HOT-HOUSE — or REPOTTING, &c. 177

beautiful white variety, forming an elegant contrast. If
sown in May, they will bloom from July until killed by
frost. (Soil No. 13.)

Tradescdntia discolor. Purple-leaved spider wort. This
is an herbaceous plant, and is only cultivated for its beau-
tiful purple foliage. It has curious small white flowers.
(Soil No. 10.)

Urania speciosa, a gigantic-looking plant closely con-
nected to Musa, from which it differs in habit by the large
leaves being more erect: to grow it luxuriantly, give it
plenty of heat, water, and pot room. (Soil No. 12.)

Zdmia, a genus of plants in the natural order of Cyca-
dese. Several species of them are admired. Z. media, Z.
furfuracea, Z. tennis, Z. integrifolia, are the most showy
that belong to the hot-house. The whole genus is fre-
quently kept in this department. They are all plants of a
slow growth, and the beauty is entirely in the pinnated
fronds, with from ten to forty pairs of leaflets. The pots
must be well drained. (Soil No. 11.)

Those genera of plants which we have enumerated under
the head of repotting in this or next month, are composed
of the finest hot-house plants that have come under our ob-
servation. There are perhaps a few of them that are not
to be found in the United States, or even on our continent ;
but the great object, in a choice collection of plants, is to
have the finest from all parts of the known world. There
are many plants whose nature does not require much sup-
port from soil, which is frequently observed in those that
are mentioned. And there are many hundreds of plants
desirable for beauty, ornament, and curiosity, which would
take volumes to specify and describe. In fact, every year
brings many new things, and frequently both new and
splendid, either in flower, fruit, or foliage.

We have previously observed, that plants ought not to
be flooded with water when newly potted, as it saturates
the soil before the roots have taken hold of it ; and that the
best draining for pots is small gravel or pot-shreds broken
fine. We wish it to be understood that, when plants are
repotted, any irregular branch or shoot should be lopped
off that cannot be tied to advantage. And repotting may
take place either before or after the plants are exposed to
the open air, according to convenience.

178 HOT-HOUSE OF REPOTTING, &C.

OF BRINGING OUT THE HOT-HOUSE PLANTS.

Where the hot-house is very crowded with plants, the
best method to have them exposed without danger is, to
take out those of the hardiest nature first, that have no
tender shoots upon them, thereby thinning the house gra-
dually. This may be done from the sixteenth to the twen-
tieth of the month, which will admit of a free circulation of
air among those that remain. All may be exposed from the
twenty-fourth to the twenty-eighth of the month. This is
a general rule, though in some seasons there may be ex-
ceptions. Having previously given all the air possible to
the house, that no sudden transition take place, which
would make the. foliage brown and otherwise materially
injure the plants, choose calm days for the removing of
them.

There are few plants while in pots that agree with the
full sun upon them ; or, if the plants receive the sun, the
pots and roots ought not. The best situation for them is on
the north side of a fence, wall, house, or other building,
where they are excluded from the mid-day sun, and they
should stand on boards or gravel, with the tallest at the
back, firmly tied to a rail or some other security, to pre-
vent them from being overturned by high winds. Make a
fanciful bed, and cover it with sand or coal ashes, for the
reception of the smaller plants, and setting them thinly and
regularly thereon, is preferable to crowding them with the
taller sorts. And it may be desired to have some of the
plants plunged in the garden through the flower borders.
Of those that are so treated, the pots must be plunged to
the brim, and regularly turned round every two weeks, to
prevent the roots from running into the earth. If the roots
were allowed to do so, it might for the present strengthen
the plant, but ultimately would prove injurious.

Where a sufficiency of shade cannot be obtained, it
would be advisable to go to the expense of a very thin
awning, that would not exclude the light, but merely the
powerful rays of the sun, attending to roll it up every even-
ing. Plants will keep in beautiful order by the above
method, which amply repays for the trouble or expense.

May.~] HOT-HOUSE—- OF REPOTTING, &C. 179

Avoid putting plants under trees ; comparatively few thrive
in such situations.

When they are thus exposed to the open air, it will be
very little trouble to give them a gentle syringing every
evening when there is no rain, and continue your usual
examinations for insects : when they appear, resort to the
prescribed remedies. Green-fly will not affect them, but
the thrips may. Give regular supplies of water every
evening, and again in the morning to all that require it,
carefully examining those that are in small pots.

SUCCULENTS, OR THE CACT^EA TRIBE.

The Cereus Mammallaria, and Opuntia. Divisions of
this family are, in their indigenous state, exposed on rocks,
hilly lands, and arid situations, being at all times fully ex-
posed to the sun : still, with us, we find that they thrive
best with a partial shade, though we have frequently seen
them doing well when fully exposed to the influence of the
sun ; but where they are to be kept out of doors all the
season, be careful in choosing for them an airy situation,
and never allow the pots to become saturated with moisture.

The habits of the Epiphyllum tribe are entirely differ-
ent ; they are generally parasites, growing on the branches
and about the roots of decayed trees ; consequently, they
are often much shaded, and they evidently show it, for they
still delight to be shaded from the direct rays of a noon-day
sun. If they are kept in the house through the summer
months, take some whiting, and make a thin white- wash,
and put it on the inside of the glass, which will be found
an agreeable and effectual shade ; but where time and
means are at hand, a thin awning, of gauze or muslin, is
preferable, provided it is regularly rolled up when the sun
is not powerful.

180 HOT-HOUSE— OF REPOTTING, &c. [June and July.

JUNE AND JULY.

As the plants of the hot-house are all exposed to the
open air, the directions will include both months. If the
repotting is over, as recommended last month, all the
attention they will require until the end of August is, the
administering of water at the roots, and by the syringe
overhead. It will be impossible to say how great are their
wants, these depending entirely upon the nature of the
plant, the situation, and the season ; but never neglect to
look over them every evening, and after dry nights they
will need a fresh supply in the morning, observing to give
to none except they are becoming a little dry. Make
weekly examinations for insects of any description, and
when they appear, have them instantly destroyed.

Always after heavy rains look over the pots, in case
water should be standing in them, which would injure the
roots. Where any is found, turn the pot on its side, and,
in a few hours, examine the draining which is defective ;
small pots in continued rains should be turned likewise.

Tie up all plants and shoots to prevent them from being
destroyed by the wind, and be attentive to pick all weeds
from the pots. Turn round all the plants occasionally, to
prevent them from being drawn to one side by the sun or
light.

JlugU9t.~\ HOT-HOUSB— OF REPOTTING, &C. 181

AUGUST.

THE plants of the hot-house that were repotted in May
and June, according to the directions therein given, will, at
present, be in an excellent state of health, provided they
have got, at all times, the requisite supplies of watering.
And as we already have heen very explicit on that subject,
more remarks now would be merely repetition.

REPOTTING.

If any of the repottings were neglected during May or
June, let it be done about the first of this month. Let young
plants that are growing freely, where the roots have filled
the pots, and the plants required to grow, have pots one size
larger. In turning out the ball of earth, keep it entire, not
disturbing any of the roots.

OF PAINTING, REPAIRING AND CLEANSING THE
HOUSE.

The necessary repairs of the hot-house are too often put
off to the last day or week ; and then with hurry are super-
ficially attended to. Previous to the first of September,
have all the wood -work painted, (which ought to have one
coat every two years,) and the glass all neatly repaired.
Have the flues and furnace examined ; plaster over all rents
and make good every deficiency. Give the flue a thick coat
of lime white-wash. Have the walls, shelves and staging
properly painted. If there is a tan-bed, have that renewed ;
take out what is most decayed, using two-thirds new tan,
which must be dried at least three days in the sun before
it is housed, and carefully protect it from rains.

16

182 HOT-HOUSE — OF TAKING IN PLANTS. [September.

SEPTEMBER.

DRESSING THE PLANTS.

HAVING last month put the house in complete order, all
that remains necessary to be attended to, is the state of the
plants and pots, which should be regularly examined, and
of those where the roots fill the soil, a little may be taken
off the top, supplying its place with fresh earth, thereby
giving what is called a top-di'essing. Give each that re-
quires it a sufficient rod, tying the plant neatly thereto ;
minutely scrutinize each for insects, and where they are
detected, have them eradicated.

Finally, wash all contracted foulness from off' the pots, at
the same time pick off any decayed leaves ; thus all will be
in perfect order to take into the house. If any plants have
been kept in the hot-house during summer, they must like-
wise go through the same operation.

OF TAKING IN THE PLANTS.

From the 16th to the 24th, according to the season, is
the proper time to take in the hot-house plants. It is pre-
ferable to have them what might be deemed a few days
too early, than have them in the slightest degree affected
by cold.

Commence by housing the largest first, and those that
stand farthest in the house, observing to place the most ten-
der sorts nearest the heat or warmest part of the house.
For observations on them, see May. In regard to arrange-
ment, that must be according to the taste of the operator.
We may observe, that in a small collection it is better to
have them in a regular than in a picturesque form. A dry
shelf is indispensable in this department for placing on it
all herbaceous plants, such as Cunna Hedychium, 'Z-ingi-
ber, Ksempferia, &c., the watering of which from this time
should be gradually suspended, that they may have their
required cessation to make them flower well. This shelf

October.'] HOT-HOUSE. 183

may be in any situation ; one in darkness, where other
plants will not grow, will answer perfectly well. If there
is a bark bed, do not until the end of December, plunge
any of the pots therein. If any plants of the Poinsettia
are in the ground, have them carefully lifted and shaded
from the sun.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

The plants being now all under protection, they must
have as much air as possible admitted to them every day,
by opening the doors, front and top sashes, closing only at
night. The syringings must be continued, and care taken
that plants of a deciduous or herbaceous nature are not
over-watered. The tuberous species might be kept almost
dry. Some practical men of sound science repot these
plants in this month into fresh soil, and allow them to stand
till January almost without water. We have never adopt-
ed this method with any description of plants, but do not
doubt of its success with that genus.

See that the ropes and pulleys of the sashes are in good
order, and fit to stand all winter.

OCTOBER.

VERY few directions remain to be given to the department
of the hot-house. The supplies of water for this and the
two succeeding months are, according to the state and na-
ture of tropical plants, more limited than at any other period
of the year. This is the first month of what may be called
their dormant state. Observe the herbaceous plants, that
they are set aside as soon as their foliage decays, in case
of being too liberally supplied with water. Airing is
highly essential about this period, that the plants may be
gradually hardened; but guard against injuring them.
The temperature should never be under fifty degrees:
when the days are cool and the wind chilling, airing is not

184 HOT-HOUSE. [November.

necessary ; and, when air is admitted, always close up
early in the afternoon, while the atmosphere is warm, to
supersede the necessity of fire as long as possible. If, at
any time, you have recourse to it in this month, use it with
great caution.

Examine all the shutters and fastenings, and see that they
are in good substantial order, and, where deficient, repair
them instantly, that they may be in readiness. Remove
all leaves, and give syringings in the morning of sunshine
days, twice a week. Clear off, sweep out, and wash clean,
that every part may be in the neatest order.

The succulent tribe will not require water more than
once a week, or once in two weeks. If any of them have
ripened seeds during summer, wash such carefully from
the pulp, and lay them past till the first of January, when
they may be sown on the surface of sandy soil, and gently
pressed down. Water them very carefully as they re-
quire ; cover the pot with a piece or pane of glass, which
will greatly assist their vegetating. In a few weeks they
will make their appearance ; and, when they are one-quar-
ter of an inch high, plant them out into other pots and
fresh soil. In a few months they will make wonderful
progress in growth, and, in the following year, will require
to be potted singly, and treated as recommended for esta-
blished plants.

NOVEMBER.

THE essential points to be attended to in the hot-house
during this month are, fire, air, and water. The former
must be applied according to the weather, observing not to
allow the temperature to be under fifty degrees, and it
ought not to continue long at that degree ; fifty-two degrees
being preferable. The shutters should be on every night
when there is any appearance of frost, and taken off early
in the morning. Admit air in small portions every day
that the sun has any, effect and the atmosphere mild, ob-
serving that the temperature of the house be above sixty

December.'] HOT-HOUSE — OF A CISTERN, &c. 185

degrees previous to admission. Shut all close early in the
afternoon, or when any sudden changes occur.

OF A CISTERN AND WATER.

In watering, it is important to have the water of the
same temperature in this department as the roots of the
plants. To have this, there are two kinds of cisterns or
tanks that might be adopted ; one may be sunk in the house
under ground, either closely plastered, or lined with lead,
and neatly covered up, having a small perpendicular pump
therein, or placed so that the water could be lifted by hand.
The other might, where convenience will admit, be placed
over the furnace, either in the back shed, or inside of the
house, and the water could be drawn off this by a stop-cock.
These can be supplied, in part, with rain water, by having
spouts round the house to lead into the cisterns, supplying
any deficiency from the pump. Thus water of a congenial
temperature may be always at hand, which is of great im-
portance to the healthful constitution of the plants. The
water must now be given in moderate portions, examining
the plants every day. Be careful in watering bulbs, as the
smallest supply is sufficient for them at present. Succu-
lents will require a little every two weeks, except they- are
over the flues, when they may have some every week.

Constantly clear off all decayed leaves, and carry them
out of the house, which sweep and wash clean, and keep
all in the neatest order.

DECEMBER.

THE uncertainty of the weather in this month requires
the operator to be constantly on guard, to ward off danger,
either from frost, snoAv, or cutting winds. The tempe-
rature observed last month must be continued, but not ex-
ceeded, which would cause premature vegetation, of which
the result and effects have already been observed. Always
16*

186 HOT-HOUSE— OF SHUTTERS. [December.

kindle the fires in time, to prevent the heat from being
lower than what has been mentioned, lest a severe frost
should take place, as then a considerable lapse ensues
before the fire has any effect; and if the wind blows high,
the result might be injurious, unless the house be very
close.

OF SHUTTERS.

The benefit of these in severe weather is of material
service, for the preservation of an even temperature in the
house during the night, when changes are not observed ;
but they ought never to remain on through the day, when
the fire can be properly attended to. If the front and the
lowest sash of the roof are covered with these, it is gene-
rally sufficient. They should be made of three-quarter
inch boards, closely grooved together, having a cross bar in
the centre, and one at each end and each side, which will
make them substantial. If they are frequently painted
with care, they will last many years. Snow ought not to
be allowed to lay on these while they are on the glass, for
reasons that we have assigned. See January and Feb-
ruary.

Some adopt double panes of glass to supersede the use
of shutters, which they think are attended with considera-
ble labour, (at the most only fifteen minutes a day, while in
use.) The sash frame is made a little deeper, so as to
allow half an inch between the panes of glass. The one
is glazed from the out and the other from the inside. It
appears to answer the purpose tolerably well, but the glass
must be both fine and even on the surface, lest a lens should
be produced, which would scourge the plants. We are
almost confident that we have seen this effect in some in-
stances. There must be a small hole about an eighth of
an inch in both ends of each row of glass, to allow a cur-
rent to dry up the moisture that may arise. Double sashes
during the severe months are frequently used ; but shutters
are preferable to either.

December.'] HOT-HOUSE — AIR PLANTS. 197

OF PLACING BULBS, &c., IN THE HOT-HOUSE.

If any Hyacinths or other Dutch roots are wanted to
flower early, a few of them may be put in the hot-house
near the front glass, which will greatly tend to forward
their time of flowering. By having some brought in
every two weeks, a continued succession of bloom will be
kept up.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

If there is a tan-bed in the house, and it was renewed in
September, the pots should now be half plunged therein.
The violent heat will partly be over, and the plants are not
so liable to suffer at root in this as last month. It will
in part prevent the plants from being affected by sudden
changes of temperature. Be attentive in keeping all in-
sects completely under. This is the period that these are
most neglected, but by attending to the modes of their
destruction, as already given, no species of them will either
be hurtful or unsightly. Syringe the plants about twice a
week, and always remember that decayed leaves or litter
of any description, do not beautify healthy plants, neither
do they form a part of a well kept hot-house.

ORCHIDEOUS EPIPHYTES OR AIR PLANTS.

Before we close the hot-house subject, it may be interest-
ing to some of our readers to know the nature and cha-
racter of a few of the most desirable of those tropical para-
sites, that have within these few years caused so much
excitement in Europe. In several instances, houses up-
ward of two hundred feet long have been erected for their
exclusive culture, and unless they do thus have an apart-
ment adapted to their nature, no success will attend their
cultivation. They grow only in a very humid atmosphere,
kept at a temperature of from 70° to 100°, and also in a
partially shaded situation : it is only under such treatment
that we have had any prosperity in blooming these pecu-

188 HOT-HOUSE — AIR PLANTS. [December.

liarly beautiful and interesting plants. Annexed are the
names of a few that are of the easiest culture and most
profuse of flower :

Brassia maculdta, greenish yellow, spotted with purple.

Catasetum trifidum, greenish yellow, spotted with dark
brown.

Cdttleya crispa, white and purple, and is considered a su-
perb plant.

Cdttleya labidta, rose and rich purple, striped and spotted
with carmine.

Cdttleya Forbesii, yellow, white, green and rose-coloured,
fine.

Dendrobium cvculldtum, rose and pale yellow.

Dendrobium speciosum, pale yellow flowers, in great pro-
fusion.

Epide'ndrum cuculldtum, dark brown, with yellow, is a
very constant bloomer.

Gongora atropurpiirea, dark purple ; the plant must be
suspended in a pot or small box.

Gongora speciosa, yellow, with black spots.

Maxillaria Loddgesii, orange flowers in long racemes.

Maxillaria picta, yellow, beautifully spotted with red and
crimson; it is in the mornings only delightfully
fragrant.

Oncldiym crispum, brownish copper colour, and profuse
flowering.

Oncidiitm papilio, bright yellow, spotted with rich brown.

Oncldium luridum, flowers of a brownish-green.

Rendnthera coccinea, a very superb scarlet flowering plant,
but does not bloom very freely ; it grows in moss,
and must be suspended in a pot or tied to a piece of
stick.

Stanhbpia grandiflora has delicate, white, sweet-scented
flowers.

Slankbpia insignis, yellow and white, spotted with purple,
and delightfully fragrant.

Vdnda Roxburghii, flowers pale yellow.

Zygopelalums, all very beautiful flowering, generally of a
yellowish green colour, spotted with brown. They
require to be kept in a hot dry atmosphere.

December.'] HOT-HOUSE — AIR PLANTS. 189

Orchideous epiphytes generally grow upon trees, in the
recesses of damp tropical forests, establishing themselves in
the forks of the branches, and even upon rocks, stones, or
decayed trees. Shade, therefore, is essential to their wel-
fare ; consequently, never permit them to be exposed to
violent sunshine. They require but little water at the
roots, provided the atmosphere they grow in is very humid.
The best soil for them is a sandy, turfy peat, containing a
large portion of fibrous matter ; mix with this pieces of
pot-shreds or cork, and be careful not to place the plant deep
in the pot ; they will also grow on blocks or sticks of wood.
Although we use and prefer small boxes (about six inches
square) made of cork, in which they grow finely and bloom
profusely. With some of the strong-growing kinds, we
use, in addition to the above soil, a little leaf-mould, using
always plenty of drainage. The house we cultivate them
in has an eastern aspect. Shade can easily be given to
them by having creepers trained up the rafters of the house,
or an occasional large plant, placed in such a situation as
will afford most shade during mid-day ; and it must be ob-
served, that, although the plants are fond of moisture, they
never thrive, except the water has a free passage from their
roots.

THE

AMERICAN FLOWER GARDEN

DIRECTORY.

GREEN-HOUSE.

ON THE CONSTRUCTION OF A GREEN-HOUSE.

IN many respects, the construction of the Green-house
will be the same as the Hot-house, but might be made
much more an ornamental object, and could be erected
contiguous to the mansion-house, with large folding doors
to open at pleasure, and be connected with the drawing-
room or parlour. The extent may vary according to the
collection to be cultivated.

It was formerly the practice to build these houses with
glass only in front, and even to introduce between the win-
dows strong piers of brick or stone ; but this is now abo-
lished, and has given way to a more light and ornamental
style, by which cheerfulness and the desired utility are
better consulted. There should be conveniences for the
admission of air in the highest part of the house, that a free
current may be obtained whenever desired, which is an
essential point.

192 GREEN-HOUSE.

GREEN-HOUSE.

JANUARY.

THIS compartment requires particular attention, in order
to preserve the plants in good health, and carry them
through this precarious season of the year. A little air
must be admitted at all convenient times. An hour or two
at mid-day will be of the utmost importance in drying up
damp and clearing off stagnated air, which is a harbour for
every corruption. The top sashes being let down or turned
a few inches, in mild days, (that is, when there are not
high and cutting winds), from ten or eleven o'clock to two
or three, according to the intensity of the frost, will re-
novate the interior air of the house and harden the plants.
When the weather will permit, let the front sashes be
opened about one inch or more. An assiduous, expe-
rienced hand will never omit an opportunity.

With regard to fire heat, the temperature must be regu-
lated to suit the nature of the plants in a general sense ; so
let the mercury, or spirits of wine, of Fahrenheit's thermo-
meter, be from 35° to 50 ; if it begins to fall, give a little
fire heat. No doubt we have seen the thermometer much
lower in the green-house than the above, even as low as
24°, without any immediate injury; but it was in an exten-
sive collection, where the most hardy of the plants were
selected into one house. Many boast how little fire they
give their green-house, and how cold it is kept, not ob-
serving the miserable state of their plants — inexperience
causing them to think that the least fire heat will make
them grow, and would rather look on naked stems than
healthy plants. The above temperature will not, in exot-
ics, cause premature vegetation, but will cause the plants
to retain the foliage requisite to vegetative nature. A high
temperature is not necessary for the generality of green-
house plants ; on the contrary, it might very much injure
them.

Jan.~\ GREEN-HOUSE CAMELLIA JAPONICA.

OF WATERING.

In this month very little is requisite, and must be given
with great caution. Few plants will require much, and
some hardly any; but all must be attended to, and have
their wants supplied. Some will need it twice, some once
a week, and some in two weeks, according to their shrubby
and woody nature. Herbaceous and deciduous plants will
seldom need water. Perhaps, from the shedding of the
foliage to the commencement of vegetation, three or four
times will be sufficient. Particular attention should be
paid to the state of health and of growth, in which the
plants respectively are, in the application of water; other-
wise much mischief may be done, and many entirely
ruined.

Green-house plants being now in an absolutely inactive
state, require little more water than merely to keep the
earth about their roots from becoming perfectly dry, by
occasionally applying a very small quantity at the root ;
and, if done with a watering-pot, as described under this
head in the hot-house of this month, very little will be spilt
in the house to increase dampness, which, if it does appear,
by any of the leaves of the plants becoming musty, they
must be instantly picked off; and, if it increases, give a
little fire and air." Succulent plants will not need any water
during this month, unless omitted in December.

CAMELLIA JAPONICA.

This magnificent and attractive flower, with all its
splendid varieties, will, about this time, begin to open its
beautiful flowers. But for this admired genus of plants,
our green-houses, at this season, would be void of allure-
ment. It is, in this country, subject to red spider, and
more especially in the city, which appears to be from the
nature of the air. The effects of the spider on these plants,
if not prevented, would prove fatal ; as, from appearance,
many have died by it in several collections. If it has
reached a great extent, the leaves are brownish, having the
appearance of being decayed, or scorched with the sun.
17

194 GREEN-HOUSE OF ORANGES, LEMONS, &C. [«/«>?.

In taking hold of the leaf, it feels soft, and altogether seems
to have lost its nutritive substance ; and, when the young
foliage expands, it becomes covered with dark brown
spots, and finally very much disfigured; and, when in this
state, the red spider is severe, and, ultimately, death en-
sues.

If any of the plants are affected as above described, take
a sponge, and wash every leaf minutely with soft water,
and syringe them with water three or four times a week,
which will clean them. All the young foliage will be
healthy, and that which has been affected will fall off.
However, prevention is better than cure ; and if the Came-
lias are properly syringed every evening during summer,
and once or twice a week during winter, they will never
be subject to the ravages of that destructive insect.

Tie up any of the flowers that are expanded to stakes,
in case of accident; and, in syringing, observe not to let
any water fall on the flowers, as it causes premature decay
and change of colour.

OF ORANGES, LEMONS, &c.

As there will perhaps be more leisure in the green-house
this month than in any other during the winter, it is pre-
sumed that there will not be a moment lost. If any of the
trees are infested with insects, these, being now in their
inactive state, may be more easily destroyed than at any
other time. It is the brown scaly insect that generally
infests them. For treatment, see Hot-house, January.
The plant or tree, after being washed, before it becomes
dry, will require to be syringed with water, otherwise the
dust will adhere to the glutinous particles of the soap. Set
the plant in an airy situation to dry, in case of damp.
There are several others subject to this insect, such as
Myrtles, Oleas, Oleanders, &c., which treat in the same
manner. Be careful that these trees are not over-watered ;
if the soil is moist, it is sufficient.

Feb.~] GREEN-HOUSE. 195

OF CAPE BULBS, &c.

If there are any out of the ground, it is time that the
whole were potted, such as Lachenalia, Wachendorfia,
Eucomis, Ixia, Gladiolus, with several others. Keep
them in the shade until they begin to grow ; then put them
on shelves near the light. Those that are growing must
be kept in front of the house, to prevent them being weak.
Wachendorfia has a beautiful large red tuberous root, and
requires a pot about six or seven inches deep.

OF HYACINTHS AND OTHER BULBOUS ROOTS.

All these roots must be carefully examined. In case
slugs or nails are preying upon the embryo of the flower,
some of those that are farthest advanced may be put for a
few weeks in the hot-house. It will greatly accelerate
their flowering^ but they must be brought out again before
the florets expand, and carefully tied up, leaving room for
the increase and extension of the flower stem. Give them
plenty of water, and if saucers can be placed under them
to retain it, it will be of advantage. Change the water
every week on those that are in glasses, and keep all the
growing bulbs near the light. Narcissus, Jonquils, &c.,
may be similarly treated.

FEBRUARY.

THE directions given last month respecting the airing
and temperature of the house may still be followed, differ-
ing only in admitting air more freely as the season ad-
vances, and according to the power the sun has on the
glass, which now begins to be considerable.

If the weather is tolerably mild, air may be admitted in
time of sunshine, so as to keep the mercury as low as 50°,
but be cautious in cold, cloudy, frosty weather. It is a

196 GREEN-HOUSE—CAPE BULBS, &C. \_Feb.

practice with many in such weather to keep the shutters
on the house night and day, for the space of a week, and
sometimes more, never entering it ; and, when the weather
has induced them to look in, they find that the frost and
damp have made many lifeless subjects ; whereas, had the
house and plants been attended to, in taking off' the shut-
ters, and giving a little fire when requisite, all would have
been in safety, and many plants that cannot be replaced
still in the collection.

When watering, strictly adhere to the directions of last
month, except with Geraniums, and other soft wooded
plants, which require a little more water towards the end of
the month. If the days are mild and sunny about eight or
nine o'clock in the morning, all the plants would be bene-
fited by a gentle syringing, which retards the progress of
insects, and accelerates vegetation.

. Succulents, such as Cactus, Mesembrydnthemum, Aloes,
Furcrceas, Crdssulas, Cotyledons, &c., will very seldom
need water, at the same time keep them from getting as
dry as powder.

OF ORANGES, LEMONS, &c.

Similar treatment to that recommended last month will
do for this. Where the soil in the tubs or pots requires
to be enriched, take of bone-dust or shavings, and fresh
sheep dung, equal quantities ; put the mixture into a large
-tub or barrel, until one-third full; and fill it up with water.
Stir it well two or three times every day till it ferments,
then give each tree one good watering with the compound.
Continue to mix up afresh, and let it stand another week,
and so on until all the trees requiring it are watered.
This watering will greatly enrich the soil and invigorate
the roots.

OF CAPE BULBS, &c.

The bulbs of Ferraria undulata, and F. anfherosa, that
were taken out of the pots in October, will now require to
be planted. Five-inch pots will be large enough for good

Feb.'] GREEN-HOUSE.— CAMELLIA JAPONICA. 197

roots. The grand criterion for planting bulbs is when there
is a protuberant appearance about the bottom, or root part
of the bulb, showing by a principle of nature, the true
time for transplanting. When bulbous roots of any de-
scription appear above ground, they ought to be placed in
an airy situation. They are very frequently placed under
other plants, by the inexperienced, until they show their
flowers, and then brought to the light, having weak flow-
ers, and comparatively of momentary existence.

Hyacinths, Narcissus, Gladiolus, Ixia, &c., having
flower stems, ought to have support, to prevent accident,
especially the two former ; keep them nigh the glass, and
water freely. Change the water regularly once or twice
a week in the bulb glasses, observing that "their roots are
never allowed to become matted with fetid water. Any of
the above plants that are in flower might, if desired, be
taken into the drawing-room or parlour, washing the pots
clean, and putting saucers under them, keeping therein a
little water. Twice a week the decayed ones can be
taken out, and supplanted with those that are coming into
bloom.

CAMELLIA JAPONICA

Will, in this month, show a profusion of flowers; and,
where there is a variety, they have truly a magnificent
appearance. From a good selection, endless varieties, by
seed, of exquisite beauty, might be obtained by attention
to the following rule : The best to select for bearing seed
are Single white, Jlntoniana, Grandi/fora, Waratah, Car-
nation Waratah, Rubricaulis, Donke/aari, and, in many
instances, the pistil, or pistillum of Fariegata, Pompone,
Pceoniflora, Intermedia and Hosackia are perfect, with
several others. When any of the above are newly ex-
panded, (VVurutuh is most perfect about one day before
full expansion,) take a fine camel-hair pencil, and put it
gently on the farina or pollen, from the double sorts, which
is a yellow substance on the anthers, and, when ripe, ap-
pears in thousands of small particles. Then, with this on
the pencil, dust it lightly on the stile of those intended to
carry seed. Between the hours of ten and twelve in the
17*

198 GREEN-HOUSE OF SHIFTING, &C. [Feb.

forenoon is the most proper time for the operation; the
seed will be ripe in September or October, which will be
taken notice of, and directions given. For other particu-
lars on cleaning and syringing, see January under this
head.

OF SHIFTING, &c.

The best time to repot Camellias is in October or No-
vember, or just when they are done flowering, which will
be before they begin to grow. There are, though not fre-
quently, some flowers after the young foliage begins to
appear, and probably it would be better to discriminate the
time by the buds offering to push, which will answer to
those that have no flowers as well as those that have.
The most general time in shifting Camellias is in August
and September, indiscriminately with other plants ; and, if
then not very gently handled, bad roots eventually are
produced. Frequently very fine plants have been killed
by probing, and breaking the young fibrous roots, thus
causing mortification.

In the process do not, by any means, break or bruise any
of the roots ; and do not give large pots, with the idea of
making them grow fast: it acts on most plants diametrical-
ly opposite to what is intended. A pot one or two inches
wider and deeper than .the one they have been in previ-
ously, is sufficient. Healthy plants, under five feet, will
not require shifting oftener than once in two years ; from
five feet.upward, in three or four years, according to the
health of the plants. This treatment, in the opinion of
some, will appear insufficient for their support: it will be
found enough with a top-dressing every year to keep them
in a healthy flowering condition, the soil being according
to our description.

On turning the plant out of the pot, it may easily be ob-
served if the soil has, in any degree, been congenial to it;
for, if so, the roots will be growing all round the ball ; if
otherwise, no roots Avill appear.

Therefore, with a blunt pointed stick, probe away all the
bad earth, until you come to the roots ; then put the plant
in a pot about one inch in diameter larger than the com-

March."] HOT-HOUSE— -OF CLEANING, &c. 199

bined roots, previously putting a few small pieces of broken
pots, or clean gravel, to drain off the superabundant mois-
ture, and give light waterings, as the roots in this case will
grow but slowly.

Top-dress all that require shifting, probe out the soil
down to the roots, and by the side of the pot, taking care not
to break the fibres ; then fill up with fresh earth, watering
gently with a rose on the watering-pot to settle it.

OF CLEANING, &c.

If any of the plants require cleaning, either by fumigation
or otherwise, let it be done before the young foliage ap-
pears, according to the directions heretofore given. Like-
wise tie neatly all that require it, clean arid top-dress those
that will not be shifted, having every plant, and all in the
green-house, in perfect order before the throng of spring
commences. The weather will now admit, in very fine
mornings, of the plants being syringed, which may be done
between seven and eight o'clock; and the path or pave-
ment should be washed out once a week, which is a great
improvement to the appearance of the whole interior.

In winter when any glass is broken, it should be imme-
diately mended. Broken glass in cold nights causes a very
destructive current of air. It should always be made water
tight, for if the drops fall into the pots upon the roots, they
will frequently prove fatal to the plants ; therefore care ought
to be taken during rain to remove those that stand in any
manner exposed.

MARCH.

THE plants in this compartment will begin to assume a
different aspect, and air must be admitted every day if
practicable, giving large portions in sunshine by the sashes
regularly over all the house, opening those of the front a
little, and likewise the doors in fine mild days. To per-

200 GREEN-HOUSE OF ORANGES, LEMONS, &C. \_MttTcJl.

form this judiciously, give a little about eight or nine
o'clock, more at ten, and the whole from eleven till twelve
o'clock, shutting again by degrees.

Fire heat will now be dispensed with, but in frosty-
nights have the shutters on about sundown. The sun is
now powerful, and the house can be early shut up in the
afternoon, and will gain as much natural heat as will keep
up the required temperature, viz., 36° to 45°. Perhaps
there may be uncommonly cold weather: at such times be
attentive to ward off danger by applying artificial heat.

OF WATERING.

Look over the pots and tubs at least every alternate day-,
to see where water is wanted. In watering, too much
caution cannot be used, especially during winter and the
commencement of spring. It was observed last month
what would be the effect of too much water. It may be
remarked, that if the exterior of the pot is very damp, the
soil inside is too wet, and, in that state,1 is uncongenial to
vegetation, which now begins to start, and ought, by all
possible means, to be encouraged. People may be fre-
quently observed watering all plants indiscriminately, not
taking the trouble to look into or feel the state of the soil
in the pots or tubs, and thus, by going over them three or
four times in this manner, will be sufficient to put the
plants in such a state, that they will not be recruited for
some months. Hence the reason of so many sickly plants.

Camellias, where there are collections, will continue to
flower. Treat them according to the directions given last
month.

OF ORANGES, LEMONS, &c.

Be sure they are not too wet, as too much humidity as
well as aridity causes their foliage to have a yellow appear-
ance, with this difference, that in the former case the foliage
is the same to the touch as when green ; but in the latter,
it is soft and dry. We have observed trees in tubs and
half barrels, with holes all round their sides. This is a

March.~] GREEN-HOUSE — GERANIUMS. 201

ludicrous idea, having the appearance of keeping the
water from reaching the bottom of the tub or barrel. For
the best kind of tub for large trees, see August under this
head. If any of the trees have stunted, straggling, or
irregular heads about the end of this month or beginning
of next, head or cut them down to the shape desired. The
old wood will push fresh shoots. You may cut close, or
shorten less or more, according as you desire young shoots
to arise ; at the same time observe that you do not cut below
the graft or inoculation. Trees thus headed down should
be kept until May, and then planted in the garden, (see
May,) or, if that cannot be done, turn it out, and reduce
the ball of earth by probing with a pointed stick all round
the sides and bottom of the ball, cutting off any very matted
roots. If any of the roots are decayed, cut them into the
sound wood. By being thus reduced, it will go into the
same pot or tub, if not a less one. Having a good supply
of fresh earth ready, put a few inches in the bottom of the
pot or tub, place the tree therein, and fill all around, at the
same time pressing it down with the hand or a stick. Give
very little water until there are signs of vegetation.

MYRTLES, OLEANDERS, &c.

These, with similar exotics, may be treated as above. If
any of them have been infected with the scaly insect, after
heading down, &c., scrub the remaining stems with a strong
decoction of tobacco, heated to about 100°. Afterward
clean with soap and water.

GERANIUMS.

These will be growing freely. Keep them in airy
situations, so that they may not grow too weak, and flower
imperfectly. To flower these plants strong and of good
colour, they must not be crowded together, neither far from
the light, and have plenty of air admitted to them when
the weather is favourable. * Keep them free from the green-
fly, by fumigating frequently.

303 GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING.

HERBACEOUS PLANTS.

Plants of this character will, by the first of the month,
begin to grow. The best time to divide and fresh-pot them
is when the young shoots are about one inch above ground.
See under the head Shifting in this month.

OF CAPE BULBS, &c.

Cape Bulbs, such as Lachendlias, Oxalis, Ixias, Gla-
diolus, Watsbnias, Babidnas, &c., will, in many of the
species, be showing flower. Keep all of them near the
glass, to prevent them from being weak and unsightly.

Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissus, &c. Those that have
been kept in the green-house during winter will be in
great perfection. Have all the flower stems tied up neatly
to small stakes, (which, if painted green, will look much
better,) and keep them from the direct rays of the sun.
The front of the house, perhaps, will be the best situation.
They must be freely watered while in flower. Where
there is convenience, it will be essential to keep the pots
in saucers containing water : it will strengthen both stems
and flowers, and likewise preserve them longer in perfec-
tion. Those that are blooming should be put aside, and
watered sparingly, until the foliage begins to decay, when
the pots may be laid on their sides to ripen the bulbs.

REPOTTING.

We have always considered that this month is the best
period for repotting the generality of Cape and New Hol-
land plants, and more especially those that you are desirous
of encouraging. Large plants of the Citrus, Myrtus, and
Oleander tribes may be deferred till August: these are of
a strong, robust habit, and will not be affected at that
period; and they will then be out of doors, and more room
can be had for the operation, but by no means defer repot-
ting your Jlcacias, Erias, Leptospermum, Epdcris, &c. ;
and, for the guidance of our more inexperienced friends,

March.~\ GREEN-HOUSE — KEPOTTING. 203

we give a descriptive list of many of the finest, with a faint
outline of their characters and general treatment, which
will prove a desideratum for those who are inexperienced,
and strangers to the beauties, pleasures, and arts of exotic
flora culture. Therefore, if you have any of the following
plants that you are desirous of encouraging, they should
be repotted this or next month at the latest. Large plants
will not require it, if they were done in August. Pots one
size larger than those that they are in, are sufficient.

Acacias and Mimosas being now united into one genus,
there are above two hundred species. About one hundred
and thirty belong to the green-house. Among such a
beautiful family, both for elegance of flower and beauty of
foliage, it will be difficult to specify the most handsome
and desirable for this department. A. dealbdta, Jl. glauce-
scens, Jl. verticillata, Jl.Jlorabunda, Jl. diffusa, A. armata,
Jl. decipiens, Jl. fragraiis, A. pulchella, Jl. lophdntha, Jl.
decurrens, Jl. pubescens, Jl. myrtifolia, Jl. conspiata, Jl.
limaris, &c. These will afford a great variety of foliage,
and are very desirable, flowering principally in wrinter, or
early in spring. The flowers of those belonging to the
green-house are of a yellow or straw colour ; the most of
those that are red or purple, with the celebrated medicinal
species, belong to the hot-house, for which see May.
There are some of the species very subject to the white
scaly insect, which must be attended to, that they may not
get to any extent. (Soil No. 1.)

Jlgapdnthus, three species. Jl. umbellalus, with bright
blue flowers, is very celebrated, and Avell known in the
collections of the country. There is a variegated variety
of it highly desirable, the foliage being white striped, and
frequently the flower stem and the flower Jl. albidus has
pale white flowers, and as yet rather scarce. They have
very strong roots, and require plenty of freedom. Plants
are always large before they flower, and when the pots, by
frequent shifting, become inconvenient, the plant should be
divested of all the earth, and, if too large, divide it, cutting
off the strongest of the fibres ; then they will admit of being
put into smaller pots. If the above operation is performed
in August or September, it will not retard their flowering,
which, when well grown, is very handsome, the flower
stem arising about three feet, and crowned with twenty or

204 GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING. \_March.

thirty blossoms, continuing to bloom successively. (Soil
No. 12.)

Achimenes. About eight species, the type of this new
genus has been long known in our collections, under the
name of Trevirdnia coccinea, now A, coccinea, flowers
bright scarlet; A. longiftora, large blue; A. grandiflora,
fine rose ; A, hirsuta, bright rosy purple; A. rosea, pro-
fuse flowering, and A. picta, the foliage of which is beau-
tifully variegated and striped. They have all scaly tuber-
ous roots requiring the pots to be kept entirely dry during
winter ; in this month they should be taken from the old
soil and planted into fresh, giving gentle waterings till they
begin to grow. They delight in a warm close moist atmo-
sphere, and will bloom freely from July to October. (Soil
No. 10.)

Aloe. Nearly a hundred species of grotesque looking
succulent plants, and are principally natives of the Cape of
Good Hope, and, consequently, will do well in the warm-
est part of the green-house, although, when convenient,
they frequently get a situation in \he hot-house. A. vul-
gdris, known as A. barbadensis, has orange yellow flow-
ers; A. obliqua, now called Gasleria obhqiia; A. dicho*
toma, and A. variegula, which is perhaps the finest of the
genus: the leaves are beautifully striped, and commonly
known as the partridge-breast Aloe; flowers scarlet and
green. They ought to have very little water; once a month
is sufficient. They would grow without it, and several of
them would also grow by being suspended in the house,
without earth or any substitute about their roots, by being
frequently sprinkled with water. Few of them are ad-
mired for the beauty of their flowers, but the whole are
considered curious. They flower from May to September.
(Soil No. 9.)

Alonsoas, five species, all soft-wooded, small, shrubby
plants, with scarlet flowers. A. incisifolia is known among
us under the name of Hemimeris urticifolia, and A.linearis
as H. linedris. If well treated, they form very handsome
plants, and flower freely. They will not bear strong fumi-
gation ; and, when the house is under that operation, they
must be put on the floor of the green-house, where they
will not be so much affected. They flower from April to
August. (Soil No. 9.)

March.~\ GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. 205

Aloysa citriodora, known in our collections as verbena
triphylla. The flowers are small, in long spikes of a pale
lilac colour: the celebrity of the plant is in the delightful
odour of its foliage, which is linear, lanceolate, and ternate.
It is of very easy culture, and has been known to survive
winter in the open air in Philadelphia. Where large
plants are desired, they should be planted in the ground
during summer, and lifted in November, and put in a dry
cellar or under the stage in the green-house. Before they
begin to grow in the spring, trim the plants into a neat
shape. (Soil No. 9.)

Alstrcemerias, about sixteen species, all exceedingly de-
sirable, and many of them particularly beautiful; such are
— A. durea, golden flowered ; A. acutifdlia, scarlet ; A.
Hookerii, rose-coloured ; A. pelegrina, elegantly spotted ;
A. pulchella, red flowered, and will grow six feet high,
having its shoots crowned with a profusion of flowers ; A.
psittadna, red, yellow and green ; A. tricolor, black,
white and yellow ; very beautiful. They have, generally,
tuberous roots, and should be potted into" fresh soil as soon
as they show symptoms of growth, and they will require
repotting about every rrtonth previous to flowering, taking
care never to break the ball of earth while they are in a
growing state. (Soil No. 10.)

Amaryllis. This is a genus of splendid flowering bulbs,
containing about eighty species and one hundred and forty
varieties. They are natives of South America, but more
than one-half of them are hybrids grown from seed by cul-
tivators. They are generally kept in the hot-house, but in
our climate will do perfectly well in the green-house ; and
we have no doubt that in a few years many of them will be
so acclimated, as to keep as garden bulbs, planting about
the end of April, and lifting them in October. As the
beauty of these plants is in the flowers, it will be proper
to give a small description of a few of them. A. Johnsoni,
the flowers are a deep scarlet, with a white streak in the
centre of each petal, four bloom on a stem of about two
feet, each flower about six inches in diameter : a bulb well
established has two stems. A. regina, Mexican Lily, has
large sparlet pendent flowers, tube of the flower frmged-
like, with three or four on the stem. A. viftata is an
admired species with scarlet flowers, striped with pure
18

206 GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING. [March.

white : there are two or three varieties of it ; corolla cam-
panulate, three or four on the stem, about three inches in
diameter; petals a little undulate. A. fulgida, flower
scarlet, large, tube striped, petals acute, two flowers on the
stem. A. dulica is one of the most magnificent, has from
two to four flowers about seven inches in diameter, erect
on a stem about two and a half feet high; six petals,
strongly united to the capsule, bottom of the petals green,
connected with spots of dark crimson, which spread into
fine transparent red, covered with rich tints, nerves very
perceptible, anthers bold; it is called Crowned Amaryllis.
A. psittadna, Parrot Amaryllis, is scarlet striped with
green, two or more flowers on the stem, each about five
inches in diameter. There are several varieties of it ; the
best that we have seen are cowbergia and pulverulenta.
A bulb known in our collections as A. purpurea is now
Valletta purpurea, has beautiful erect scarlet flowers,
three or four on the stem, each about four inches in dia-
meter. There are three varieties of it, differing only in
habit. Jl. longifolia is now Crinum capense, and is per-
fectly hardy; flowers pink, inclining to white, in large
umbels, leaves long, glaucous, and is a desirable garden
bulb. A. longiflora striata has pure white flowers with
bright pink stripes, and each flower is about seven inches
long; it was introduced from South America by Mrs. R.
Alsop, and is a most superb flowering bulb. A. solandri-
flbra, large red ; A. Augusta, buff and orange ; A. elegdns,
red and green, and many other superb kinds, especially
the hybrid sorts; from Johnsoni there are above twenty
cultivated varieties; fromforniosa about twelve; and from
Griffini about ten, all of them esteemed. Where they
have been kept in the earth in which they were grown last
year, the ball ought at this repotting to be reduced ; when
the bulbs are in a growing state, they ought to have plenty
of water, arid be fully exposed to the sun, so that the foliage
may have its full influence, and as the roots grow lo the
outside of the earth, give them another and a larger pot.
They must have plenty of drainage, and be kept from
heavy rains. We prefer growing them in the green-house
all summer, or into frames under glass: about the end of
October the watering must be gradually withheld, and by
the middle of November put the bulbs where they wjll be

March.~] GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. 207

kept dry till February or March next, when they must be
again potted (in soil No. 12).

Adtus, two species, both fine leguminose plants. A.
villosa is a native of Van Dieman's Land, and A. virgata
is from New Holland. The former is preferable. Both
have yellow flowers, and are small evergreen shrubs. (Soil
No. 1.)

Araucaria. This noble genus contains four species,
which are without exception the most noble plants we are
acquainted with, for the beauty of their foliage and sym-
metry of their growth, that belong to the green-house. A,
excelsa, Norfolk Island Pine, has leaves closely imbricated
as if with a coat of mail, and are imperishable. A. imbri-
cdta, Chile Pine, is one of the grandest of trees, and is the
hardiest of the genus ; grows in the open air with me ; the
leaves are also closely imbricated. The other two species
are rarely seen even in European collections. The foliage
of either of the species will adhere to the wood many years
after the plant is dead. They are all highly valued : the
pots must be well drained ; for if the plants get much water
while dormant, the foliage becomes yellow, and never at-
tains its beautiful green colour again; otherwise they are
easily grown. (Soil No. 11.)

Arbutus, ten exotic species and six varieties. They are
generally hardy in England; but we question if they stand
out in the middle states. A. unldo ritbra has the finest
crimson flowers ; A. serratifolia, the largest panicles ; and
A. andrdchne, the finest foliage; and very profuse of
bloom. They flower in nodding panicles ; A. canariensis
has very neat pink flowers. They bear a pretty fruit
similar to a strawberry ; hence it is called strawberry tree,
and the fruit will remain on the bush a long time. They
are very fine evergreens, and if any of them become accli-
mated, they will be a great acquisition to our gardens. In
the southern states they make lovely evergreen shrubs.
(Soil No. 9.)

Aster argophyllus, or musk plant, has no beauty in its
flowers, but is esteemed by some for its musky flavour
when the leaves are gently rubbed. Leaves ovate, lanceo-
late, and silky beneath : the plant is of strong growth. (Soil
No. 9.)

Aucuba japonicci is the only species. The flowers are

208 GREEN-HOUSE—- REPOTTING. \_MaTCtl.

small and almost insignificant, colour purple; but the
foliage is a desirable object, being yellow spotted, or
blotched. It is tolerably hardy, and withstands our win-
ters. It prefers shade, and, if the situation were such
when planted out, it would grow more freely. The hot
rays of the sun are very prejudicial to its growth. It is an
evergreen shrub, and very desirable. (Soil No. 2.)

\ftzaleas. The Chinese varieties of Azalea indica are
almost without an end ; we might properly say that they
are without end ; but the finest we have seen are those we
shall enumerate. The one that has been longest known
in the collections of this country is Jl. indica, a most splen-
did shrub, with red flowers and dark spots. Jl. indica
alba, the flowers of the purest white, rather larger than the
former. A. indica purpitrea plena, double purple. This
variety is not so fine as many of the others. Properly it
is not purple, or, if it may be termed so, the colour is very
light, and the flower irregular. A. indica phoenicea, rich
purple and a free grower. Jl. indica smithii, of the
French, and Jl. indica purpurea of the English, are alike,
pale lilac and very profuse of flower. Jl. indica coccinea,
bright scarlet, a superb variety, and extremely abundant of
bloom. Jl. indica flore, variegdta flowers beautifully varie-
gated, pink and white. Jl. lateritia, salmon colour, fine.
Jl. Williamsii, bright, rich crimson. Jl. Powleii, rosy
purple. Jl. Copeii, bright rose. Jl. Danielsiana, bright
red. Jl. indica cornea, delicate flesh colour. Jl. indica
nova blanc, white with a greenish yellow spot on the upper
petals. Jl. indica, elegans, bright rosy purple, a very pro-
fuse flowerer and of a neat habit. Jl. indica Gillinghamia,
very large lilac, and of a strong habit. Azalea sinensis does
not belong to the indica tribe ; it is of a hard woody nature,
flowers of a golden yellow, in large clusters ; it no doubt will
prove a hardy species. The varieties and sub-varieties of
indica will, in a few years, be so numerous, that the greatest
difficulty will be to keep clear of those that are not decidedly
distinct : to obtain this object our own feeble exertions will
be industriously applied. We might have named a few
other varieties, but they so nearly approach some of the
above, that it is better to avoid them. A choice selection
of the Chinese Azalea ought to be in every green-house ;

March."] GREEN-HOUSE— REPOTTING. 209

they are all easy of culture, and bloom freely from Feb-
ruary to May. The pots must be well drained and shaded
from the sun during summer, though the tops of the plants
do best to have the full rays, to which we have them fully
exposed, and find that by such treatment they are every
year completely covered with their flowers, and grow more
stiff in habit than when the whole plant is shaded. They
should be repotted as soon as done flowering in soil No. 6,
when they are flowering plants, and in soil No. 5, when
young plants.

Bdnksias. There are about thirty-two species, all curi-
ous in flower, and handsome and various in foliage ; flowers
in large heads of cone shape, anthers mostly green, and
continue a considerable time in flower ; produces a cone in
shape of a pine, but not imbricate. The substance is as
hard as bone, and contains many seeds. A cone of B.
grdndis in our possession weighs one pound and twelve
ounces, and contains about one hundred and seven seeds.
Those most admired for the foliage are, B. dentdta, B.
xmula, B. serrala, B. latifdlia, B. grdndis, which is
the largest. B. spedosa has the longest foliage. B.
Cunninghdmii, B. spinulose, B. palluddsa, and B. repens,
these will afford a good variety. B. verticilldta is entirely
different in appearance from the others.

They must be well drained, and placed in an airy part
of the green-house. Great care should be taken that thev
do not get too dry, for they seldom recover if allowed to
flag for want of water. This genus is named in honour of
Sir Joseph Banks, a distinguished promoter of the study of
natural history. (Soil No. 6.)

Barosmas, above ten species of pretty plants, separated
from Diosma. B. serratifolia, white ; B. pulchella, pur-
ple ; B. fcetidlssima, blush ; B. odordta, white ; and B.
dioica, pink, are the finest. (Soil No. 8.)

Beaufortias, only two species. B. decussata is splen-
did ; the flowers come out of the wood with stamens in fine
parcels, colour bright scarlet, foliage decussate, oval, and
many-nerved, bloom persistent, and much esteemed. B.
spdrsa, in flower similar to the other ; colour light pink,
foliage scattered, both of easy culture, and flower abun-
dantly. (Soil No. 8.)

Begonias, a few species, are desirable for the green-

210 GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING. \_March.

house especially. B. incarnata, flesh colour, and blooms
during winter ; B. zebrina, zebra-like, very pretty ; they
are of a soft woody nature, and should be kept in the warm-
est part of the green-house. (Soil No. 9.)

Benthamia fragifera. This beautiful new plant will
make a splendid hardy evergreen for the southern states,
where it will produce its pale white flowers in July, and
an abundance of fruit very much like strawberries, of a
slight acid taste : but we are doubtful if it Avill fruit in our
green-houses, unless greatly encouraged. (Soil No. 9.)

Bletia hyacinthina is the only species belonging to the
green-house, once known as Cymbidium hy acini hinum.
It is herbaceous, and before it begins to grow, divide the
root, putting the best into six-inch pots. The spike of
flowers are hyacinth -like, and of a beautiful purple, flower-
ing from April to July. (Soil No. 9.)

Bouvdrdias, two species. B. triphylla is well known
among us, has brilliant scarlet flowers, and, when well
grown, will flower beautifully from May till September.
To keep the plants, they should be frequently renewed ;
otherwise they are liable to grow straggling, and become
subject to the small white scaly insect. B. jacquinae we
suspect has got confounded with the former, being very
little different, except the foliage, which is more pointed.
They flower from the young wood, and throw their foliage
in winter. (Soil No. 3.)

Borbnia is a beautiful genus of New Holland plants,
contains about nine species ; most of them have been uni-
versally admired ; the flowers are star-like, rose-coloured,
and some of them sweet-scented. B. pinndta grows and
flowers freely. B. serruldta, foliage serrated and very
crowded, bearing the flowers on the extremity of the shoot,
and does extremely well in this country ; the flowers are
bright rose, and sweet-scented. B. aldta has a fine appear-
ance, and grows handsomely. The foliage is winged and
pinnate, strong-scented; of a hardy nature, and easy cul-
ture. They are in flower about April and May, and con-
tinue a considerable time ; are subject to mildew if not fre-
quently syringed : drain the pots well. (Soil No. 8.)

Brachysemas, two species, both evergreen climbers. B.
lalifolium has the best foliage, and large purple legumi-
nose flowers. B. unduldtum, flowers yellow, and more

March.~] GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. 211

plentiful than the former, continuing in long successions.
The pots require to be well drained ; very few plants of
either in the country. (Soil No. 6.)

Brugmdnsias, two species of strong, coarse-growing
plants, requiring great nourishment to flower them well.
B. suaveolens has very large white flowers, about five
inches in diameter, and sweet-scented. B. sanguinca has
flowers with a green thorax; the brim of the corolla is of
a dark orange colour. If this plant is kept in the hot-
house, it will drop its flower buds. They must have very
frequent repottings, and be liberally supplied with water
while growing. (Soil No. 18.)

Brunias, about ten species, have heath-like foliage,
very fine, generally, on close observation, found to be three
cornered. The flowers are white and globular, the plants,
when young, are very handsome ; the finest are, B. nodi-
Jlora, B. lanuginosa, B. comosa, B. abrotanoldes, and B.
formosa. They require an airy situation, and, in summer,
to be protected from the powerful rays of the sun. Drain
the pots well. (Soil No. 6.)

Brunsvigias are all large bulbs from the Cape of Good
Hope, and will keep in the green-house during winter, but
are better where they can obtain a situation in the hot-
house. It is a splendid genus, containing about ten spe-
cies. Some of the bulbs grow to an enormous size, and all
of them, while growing, require a liberal supply of water;
but when dormant, it must be wholly withheld, and they
should have large pots, to make them grow and flower in
perfection. B. multiflora, flowers scarlet and green ; the
leaves lay on the surface of the pot. B. laticbma, flowers
pale purple. B. Josephinx has splendid rose-coloured
flowers, and the most admired species of the genus ; the
foliage spreading, half erect, and glaucous ; flowers nume-
rous, and in large umbels, on a stem two feet high, bloom-
ing successively : there is a variety that has striped flow-
ers.

Several other species have been given to different
genera. B.falcala is now Jlmmocharisfalcata; B. mar-
gindta, now Imhofia; and B. cillidris is now Buphone
cilliaris. They all flower in umbels, on stems from six
inches to two feet ; flowers lily-like, with six petals. (Soil
No. 12.)

212 GREEN-HOUSE— REPOTTING. [March.

Burchellias, two species. B. capensis is a beautiful
dwarf evergreen shrub, with tubular orange-coloured flow-
ers, in large terminal clusters ; when well treated, grows
and flowers freely, and highly deserving of attention. B.
parviftora differs from the above in the flowers being
smaller and paler, and the foliage more pointed. (Soil
No. 10.)

Cactus : for descriptions of, see hot-house in May.

Calceolaria. This genus of giants has undergone a
complete revolution. Within these few years hundreds of
superb hybrid varieties have been brought to notice, many
of them truly splendid. With us the herbaceous kinds are
very delicate during summer; they are generally all cut off
by our intense heat, or severe droughts. The shrubby
varieties appear to withstand the vicissitudes of our climate
better, though, as yet, we confess we are not even alto-
gether successful in their summer culture. However, a
few of them have done well, and are C. angustifolia, bright
yellow, and in great profusion ; C. jupiter, brown and yel-
low; C. marjoridna superba, nearly scarlet; C. smithii,
red and yellow ; C. ignea, bright crimson ; C. meteor, dark
crimson; C. Vulcan, dark red; C. maculata, superbly
marked with red or crimson. There are many others of
very great merit of the shrubby kinds cultivated in Europe,
such as whites of different shades, dark crimsons, with
white capes, and others blending into almost every descrip-
tion of colour and character. Any quantity of new sorts
may be obtained by cross impregnation between any two
of very different colours : the seeds will ripen in July, when
they may be sown on light soil, and they will flower the
following season. Flowering plants require to be greatly
encouraged, and must be shaded during summer from the
violent noon-day sun. (Soil No. 10.)

Calolhdmnus, four species. This genus is named in
allusion to the splendid appearance of the branches, cov-
ered with scarlet flowers of curious construction, which
come out of the old wood. All the species are of easy cul-
ture, and very like dwarf pines. C. quadriffida has the
largest flowers ; C. clavdta the most abundant. They are
all evergreens, and flower from April to November, and
are very desirable in a collection. (Soil No. 6.)

Callicoma serratifolia, the only species, and remarkable

March.'] GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. 213

for tufted yellow heads of flowers, which come out at the
axils, and continue from May to July. The foliage is
ovate, lanceolate, deeply serrated and opposite. (Soil No.
6.)

Camellias. There are about eight distinct species of
this plant, known in our collections ; and the varieties of
japonica approach to one thousand, to which many are
yearly added; but, unfortunately, their merits are not fully
scrutinized before they are sent forth to the floral world,
under names representing and expressing every quality
that is grand or beautiful in floral imagination. Such has
been the rapid increase of varieties in Europe, and even in
this country, that, in many instances, three or four distinct
plants have come out under the same name; consequently,
a great confusion of names has been the result, which has
caused much difficulty in attaining the best of the names.
The collections of this country were kept comparatively
pure till within the last few years, when the anxiety of our
cultivators to obtain variety caused them to import from the
French and German markets, which has thrown the no-
menclature into an almost impenetrable chaos. But still
we can unite in saying, "What species of plant is there
which better merits the intelligent and vigilant care of the
amateur and horticulturist ?" The elegance of its form,
the beautiful verdure of its foliage, and the pure and bril-
liant colours of the large and elegant flowers, sufficiently
justify the admiration of all. In fact, we may say, there is
not a green-house in which this lovely plant has not found
a place, where it stands in the first rank of floral popula-
tion. To give a full description of all the varieties we
know would occupy this volume. However, we will give
lucid details of nearly one hundred of the finest we have
seen in cultivation. But, in regard to the shades and spots
of colour, we must throw ourselves on the charity of our
readers ; for many sorts are very capricious in that particu-
lar, though styled self-coloured, may come spotted, and
even those that are generally spotted sometimes show them-
selves of one colour.

Camellia euryoides, flowers small, single white, and a
little fragrant ; plant of a slender growth.

C. olciferia is cultivated principally in China for the oil

214 GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING.

which is expressed from its seeds, which is much used in
the domestic cookery of the country; flower single white.

C. Sesdngua, Lady Banks's. The foliage of this species
is very small, and paler, and the green not so fine as any
of the others. It seeds freely, and is often used as the
female parent in producing new varieties ; flowers small,
white, and single, with many anthers. There are a semi-
double and double variety of it of the same colour.

C. sesdnqua rosea, or malliflora of some, double pink,
small flowers, but in very great profusion ; the plant is of a
free, upright growth. The flowers are of about four weeks'
duration : it is very much esteemed.

C. kissii. Small single white : the only species that is
a native of Nepaul.

C, reticuldta was brought from China by Capt. Rawes
in 1823. The foliage is very characteristic, being stiff' and
flat, distinctly serrated, nerves deeply sunken ; flowers
bright rose, of a loose form, and above six inches in diame-
ter, semi-double. From present appearance, it will never
be so plenty as many of the others, being tardy of propa-
gation ; only a few eyes on the extremity of each shoot
make young wood, and, if these are cut off, the plant does
not seem to push afresh. Magnificent.

C. japonica, small, single, red. It is supposed that this
is the type of all the garden cultivated varieties of the
Camellia, though some are inclined to think that it is a
variegated or striped species, not yet introduced, that has
been the origin of so many beautiful Chinese sorts.

The following are supposed to be its varieties :

C. aitonia. This variety is a beautiful specimen of a.
single flower, affording a development of the organ of fruc-
tification ; the petals are delicately penciled, and the
anthers very bold, colour pink, and the flower very large;
grows freely, and, in our opinion, is surpassed by none of
the single sorts for raising fine new varieties, if impreg-
nated with the pollen from double flowers. Good.

C. alba-plena, common double white, is admired by the
most casual observer, and is generally considered a very
superior flower, from the purity of its whiteness and the
abundance of its large flowers, which are closely and regu-
larly set with round petals. The foliage is large, and the
plant grows freely ; we have seen one shoot grow two feet

March.} GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. 215

in one summer. It was imported into Europe from China,
among the first of the varieties, about eighty years ago.
Magnificent.

C. semplex* alba, single white. It is mentioned some-
where as being very sweet-scented, though not very per-
ceptible to us. The foliage and wood are very strong, the
fine-striped sorts have been raised from it ; consequently,
it is particularly desirable as a stock to grow new varieties
from. Its flowers are large and abundant. Good.

C. althseflora, hollyhock flowered, is a great beauty, with
large double dark red flowers ; the veins are very promi-
nent, petals frequently irregular ; foliage large, smooth, and
very dark green, and is much esteemed. Fine.

C. anemoneflora, or Waratah (from the centre petals,
having the appearance of the Waratah plant, Telopla spe-
ciosissimd). This variety is very characteristic, both in
flower and foliage. The flower is dark crimson, with five
regular large outside petals ; those of the centre are very
small and neatly plaited, with the stile (female organ) pro-
minent ; the foliage is large and oblong, nerves very smooth,
and the wood strong, bark light. Had this kind not been
found, we would have been deprived of many most splendid
varieties which have originated from it, and we have no
doubt they may become as diversified as the roses of the
garden : this variety, in a collection, for that alone is in-
valuable. It seeds freely, and the pollen of any of the
others applied to the style of this, will produce a new
variety, which seldom fails of being double, provided the
pollen is from a double variety. It must be applied the
first day that the flower is expanded, for the bloom is only
of a few days' duration. Those that are not acquainted
with the buds of this Camellia, will take them to be dead,
because, before expansion, they are very dark brown, and
have a dried appearance. Superb.

C. anemone/lore rosea, fine rose, the exterior petals are
large and well rounded, the interior very full of small short
petals, flower very persistant — foliage large, cordate, acu-
minate. Superb.

* We have now, 1839, in flower, a single white, very similar to
this, which we have raised from the seed of Dahliuflora, a good
double red variety; it, therefore, appears impossible to predict their
character from the parent that produced the seed.

216 GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING. [_Marck.

C. amabile. This exceedingly perfect flower was raised
from seed by J. B. Smith, Esq., of this city ; it is regu-
larly imbricated, the extreme petals are bright rose,
shading to delicate pink, and then again shading in the
centre to light red. The plant is full of foliage and of ex-
cellent habit, flower about three and a half inches in diame-
ter. Magnificent.

C. atrorubens, Loddiges' red, is a good variety; colour
dark red, outside petals large, inside small and irregular,
forming a very distinct character; foliage stiff'; grows freely
and flowers well ; and of long duration. We have seen a
flower stand fresh on the plant two months ; however, that
cannot be a rule, 'as it depends on the situation. Good.

C. aucubafblia, bright rose, perfectly double, three and
a half inches in diameter, a free bloomer — foliage large,
cordate, pale green, and sometimes spotted like Aucuba
japonica. Good.

C. augusta, cherry red, large, finely double, centre petals
rather irregular — foliage dark green. Good.

C. americana, blush, medium size, finely cupped form,
generally spotted with rose, an American seedling by Mr.
Dunlap, of N. Y. Magnificent.

C. Bealiana, or Leana Superba, dark crimson, very
large, superbly double, cup form. Magnificent.

C. candidissima, purest white flowers, very large, four
inches or more in diameter, full and most regularly imbri-
cated, and resemble very much the old double white, though
more perfect in form — leaves rather small, of an elongated
form, smooth and pale green, often spotted with yellow.
The plant is of vigorous growth, and a Japan variety.
Magnificent.

C. cdrnea, frequently known as Middlemist's blush.
Double pink, one of the original varieties, and frequently
produces seeds, from which many very fine varieties have
been obtained ; grows freely. Good.

C. chalmerii perfecta, delicate waxy rose, perfectly im-
bricated form, flower medium size, very persistent, foliage
pale green, plant of regular pyramidal growth. Magnifi-
cent. An American seedling in the possession of Mr. Wm.
Chalmers, gardener to Geo. Pepper, Esq.

C. chandlerii or versicolor, perfectly double, colour
vivid red, with occasional splashes of pure white; the

March.'] GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. 217

flowers vary, and are often only red — they are of long,
duration, from six to eight weeks ; foliage large and dark
glossy green. Magnificent.

C. cliveana, large, irregular, double flower, of a bright
cherry red colour : plant of rather slow growth, but a pro-
fuse bloomer. Superb.

C. coccinea, deep cherry red, a double flower of about
three inches in diameter ; plant of a very neat growth, and
a most profuse bloomer; it frequently produces seed.
Good.

C. colvillea, pale blush, with rose spots and pink stripes,
is partially anemone formed ; but very compact and of free
growth; leaves cordate. Superb.

C. concinna, deep cherry red, a very perfectly imbri-
cated double flower, about three and a half inches in dia-
meter ; foliage generally a little undulated, wood slender.
Superb.

C. consplc.ua, (Loddigies,) a shrub of strong handsome
growth, with large dark green foliage ; flower very double ;
five inches in diameter; bright orange red, hemispherical
shape ; petals erect, and appear as if three or four flowers
were united ; it is profuse of bloom and very conspicuous.
Magnificent.

C. coronata, shrub of stiff" growth ; foliage pale green ;
flower large, irregular, and double, of a clear pink colour ;
four inches in diameter. Very good.

C. crassinervis, a good improvement on the original
anemoneflura or JVaratah, and has much the same habit.
Superb.

C. curvalifolia, leaves narrow and pointed; plant of
good habit ; flower pure white ; regular and very double,
petals disposed in a regular rosette, about three and a half
inches in diameter. Superb.

C. decora, pale rose, flower perfectly double, four and a
half inches in diameter, three rows of exterior petals, those
of the centre short and thick, containing a few concealed
stamens — foliage large glossy green. Magnificent.

C. Derby ana, very bright" dark red, flower finely double
cup-shaped, petals bold and broad spoon-shaped : a striking
flower, often over four inches in diameter— foliage of a very
beautiful green. Superb.

C. Donkelari, bright red, variegated and sprinkled with
19

218 GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING. [March.

pure white, three rows of large petals ahout one inch broad
and two inches long: centre full of stamens, flower fully
four inches in diameter ; leaves about two inches broad and
four inches long; this will be an elegant variety to seed
from, and is of Chinese origin. Magnificent.

C. delectlssima, white, profusely striped with rose, exte-
rior petals large and round ; those of the interior are closely
set; flower nearly four inches in diameter; leaves very
large, ovate, acuminate. Superb.

C. Duchess of Orleans, rose white, beautifully spotted
or striped Avith rose, perfect form, large, a free bloomer.
Magnificent.

C. dorsettia or parthoniana, of the Belgians ; leaves flat
and closely set, of a dark shining green, flower very large,
nearly five inches in diameter, of a pale red, mixed with
rose and white, petals closely imbricated, irregular, and
numerous; those of the centre small. Magnificent.

C. eclipse or Pressi, of the English, or imperialis of the
French ; flower pure white, with rose stripes, four inches
in diameter ; irregular, full, and double, with a few stamens
appearing among the petals ; the whole flower forms an
arched centre, almost hemispherical; leaves long and
pointed, of a clear rich green : we have seen flowers of this
plant entirely rose. Magnificent.

C. elegans, (Chandler's,) flower rosy red, fading to
nearly white in the centre ; three and a half inches in
diameter, exterior petals large and rounded ; those of, the
interior very numerous, and beautifully harmonize ; form-
ing, as it were, a depressed sphere ; a profuse bloomer, and
of a neat habit. Magnificent.

C. eldfa, violent crimson, spotted with white, flower
three and a half inches in diameter, perfectly imbricated
to the very centre, and of the most perfect double, foliage
dark green, plant of a good habit. Magnificent.

C. elphingstonia, red spotted with white, frequently
four inches in diameter, exterior petals very large, regu-
larly graduating to the centre, which cover a few hidden
stamens, foliage dark green ; plant of a fine habit. Mag-
nificent.

C. JEstherii,* foliage nearly three inches wide and five

* Grown by J. B. Smith, Esq., of this city, who is a very success-

March."] GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. 219

inches long, finely serrated — nerves prominent; flower,
when well grown, is five inches in diameter; colour pure
white, spotted, and striped with rose and pink, petals
broad, bold, erect, and closely set; the bloom, when fully
expanded, forms a perfect hemisphere, and contains a few
hidden stamina ; it is the finest and largest of all the striped
varieties, and is a profuse bloomer. Magnificent.

C. eximia, (Chandler's,) flowers bright crimson, four
inches in diameter, of a perfect double imbricated form,
foliage light green and deeply serrated, nerves smooth ; it
is of free growth, but with us does not bloom freely. Mag-
nificent.

C. Fdirlea: foliage large, ovate, acuminate; of a smooth
shining dark green; flowers nearly four inches in diame-
ter, of a rich crimson, marked with pure white, very dou-
ble. Superb.

C. Feastii, pure white, with a few spots of rose fully
double, imbricated, very distinct, foliage dark green, of free
growth. Magnificent. A seedling by Mr. Feast, of Balti-
more.

C. fimbriata : fringed white. The size, shape and set
of the flower same as alba-plena, and the white as pure,
with the edges of the petals deeply serrated, or rather
fringed; is equally as free in flowering, though not so
strong in growth. It is universally admired, and in great
demand. Magnificent.

C.Jlavescens, or incdrnata. Lady Hume's blush, and
by some called buff. It is a very double flower, beautifully
regular and imbricated, and frequently hexangular, or star-
like; the bottom of the petals is most delicately tinged
with blush ; on looking into it, it shows more like a blush
vapour than nature, and is a great favourite, and deserved-
ly so : flowers and grows freely ; foliage rhomboid, elon-
gate, nerves very visible, surface smooth and pale green,
distinctly serrate, growth strong and erect. Magnificent.

C.florida. Flower clear cherry red, large, frequently
above four inches in diameter; very persistent; exterior
petals large and well rounded ; the interior small and closely
set, rising in the centre: it is a profuse bloomer; foliage

ful amateur cultivator, and has raised some of the finest seedling
Camellias that are at present known.

220 GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING.

dark green. The plant is of a neat and regular habit.
Magnificent.

C. Floyii, one of the most noble of the Camellias, both
in flower and foliage ; leaves three inches wide, and nearly
five long; smooth, dark green, plant of strong growth; flower
five inches in diameter, of a perfectly double form ; the ex-
tremity is cherry red, diverging to a pale rose in the centre ;
the exterior petals are bold, round and elegant, of a cup
shape when newly opened. It is frequently sold in Eu-
rope under the imposing name of Frederic the Great,
though grown from seed by Mr. Floy, of New York, who
has been very successful in producing several other esteem-
ed sorts. Magnificent.

C. Fordii, a free-growing plant, with lively green foliage
and graceful habit ; flower dark rose, three inches and a
half in diameter, perfectly double, and regularly imbricated,
forming a symmetrical bloom. Magnificent.

C.formosa, foliage very dark green : flower fully four
inches in diameter, of a dark rose colour, regularly double,
petals large and erect ; interior shortened, covering a few
stamens. Superb.

C. frankofortensis, or Wellingtoni, a plant of a very
compact habit; flower three inches and a half in diameter,
beautiful rose, occasionally spotted with white. Magnifi-
cent.

C.fulgens, flower three inches and a half in diameter,
and very bright double crimson, approaching to C. atro-
rubens, but more brilliant ; petals regularly decreasing to
the centre ; foliage a lucid green, very smooth ; young wood
and wood buds have a red appearance. We have no doubt
but it will occasionally seed ; if so, it will be a first-rate
breeder. Superb.

C. Gilesii, or Nancy Dawson. The leaves are large,
ovate, oblong and pointed ; flowers above four inches in
diameter, of a fine dark red colour, often striped with white,
and is " distinguished for fragrance as well as beauty."
Magnificent.

C. grunella, foliage oval and acute, of a deep glossy
green, flower white, three inches and a half; rather irregu-
lar, but perfectly double, a profuse bloomer, and of good
habit. Superb.

C. Hendersoni, raised by the celebrated camellia grower,
Mr. Henderson, of Woodhall, Scotland. It is a large flower,

March.'] GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. 221

four inches and a half in diameter, beautifully imbricated,
and perfectly double, of a bright rose colour, foliage round,
ovate, and distinctly serrated. Magnificent.

C. Hampsteadii, large rosy crimson, quite double, with
bold petals, foliage dark green, heart-shaped, a free grower.
An American seedling sent out by Messrs. Ritchie and
Dick.

C. Henri Favre, a beautiful rose colour, of French ori-
gin, perfectly double, being similar to Landrethi. A free
bloomer, foliage pale green. Magnificent.

C. ffosackia, large dark crimson, nearly five inches in
diameter; flower rather flat, petals numerous, regularly
decreasing to the centre, which has an occasional speck of
white. It does seed, and Avill prove a first rate variety for
that purpose; foliage long and pointed, rather drooping; is
of a free growth and bloom. Superb.

C. imbricata, foliage very large, three inches wide and
four and a half long, of a pale green, often marked with
white ; flowers rich crimson, almost invariably marked more
or less with white ; they are full four inches in diameter ;
the petals are round, and regularly disposed, and imbri-
cated on each other, gradually decreasing to the centre,
forming a most perfect flower. The plant grows freely,
and blooms profusely ; no collection can be perfect without
it. Magnificent.

C. intermedia is a sport from S. pseoni/lora; it is a very
large blush, beautifully suffused with rose. Magnificent.

C. invincible, or punctdta, flower three inches and a half
in diameter, rose ground, marked and striped with cherry
red ; the circumference petals are broad and convex ; those
of the centre small and erect. This Camellia sometimes
produces flowers entirely red or rose-coloured; it is of free
growth ; leaves round, acuminate, and of a dark green.
Superb.

C. Jejfersoni, rosy crimson, perfectly imbricated to the
centre ; flower of medium size ; foliage shining green, three
to four inches long, and two wide. A seedling by Dr. J.
S. Gunnell, of Washington city. Magnificent.

C. kermosine, leaves long and narrow, strongly nerved,
of a pale green, bud depressed at the extremity, flower
cherry red, double, petals rather numerous, among which
are a few stamens. Very good.
19*

222 GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. [March.

C. Landrethia, or Jacksonia, very beautiful pink, fading
to the centre, a perfectly double and finely imbricated
flower, about four inches in diameter, a free bloomer, and
a plant of good habit ; leaves ovate, acuminate, pale green.
We have seen the flower profusely spotted with white.
This elegant Camellia was grown from seed by D. and C.
Landreth, and bloomed first in the spring of 1829. Mag-
nificent.

C. latifolia, leaves three inches wide and four inches and
a half long, point recurved, a fine glossy green ; flower
cherry red, cup form, interior petals irregular, festooned
and curled, those of the exterior bold and round, about
three inches and a half in diameter. Superb.

C. minuta, plant vigorous, leaves nearly orbicular, and
three inches and a half long, very shining and nerved flower
three inches in diameter, of a beautiful cherry red, petals
regularly imbricated, and arranged into a vase form; the
centre is of a vivid red. Superb.

C. mutdbilis traversii, foliage very large and almost cor-
date, plant of an elegant and free growth, leaves rather
reflexed and of a lively green, nerves very conspicuous,
flower four inches and a half in diameter, regular, and very
double : it opens a delicate rose, and soon changes to a vio-
let purple, shaded with a faint line of white, an unique
plant and flower. Magnificent.

C. myrtifolia, known in some collections as involuta.
There are two varieties of it, major and minor; the former
is certainly the best, and has a very handsome, large and
regular red flower ; the centre frequently is pink and pur-
ple ; it is much the shape of double white, only the petals
are more cupped. The flower is of considerable duration.
The foliage, though small, is much larger than that of any
of our common mystics, which might make many mistake
its character ; and another prominent feature is, the leaves
are much recurved and shining ; plant pendulous, of a pale
green. Magnificent.

C. nivalis, flower large white, very pure, having three
rows of large round exterior petals, the centre irregularly
filled with small petals, showing a considerable quantity of
stamens, foliage very dark green, plant of a good habit,
and will make an excellent variety for producing new sorts.
Superb.

March.'] GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. 223

C. pfeoniflbra: bright pink, large flower, fully four
inches in diameter, two rows of circumference petals;
those of the centre numerous, very close, erect, and in the
form of a sphere; plant of slender growth; leaves two
inches broad and three inches long, of a delicate green.
Superb.

C. Palme ria alba: leaves two inches broad and three
long, rather reflexed, of a very dark green — is a plant of
neat habit, an1 profuse in blooming — flowers finely double,
clear white, about three and a half inches in diameter ;
petals bold and round — regularly imbricated, though not
closely set ; is a very graceful flower, and has been sold in
England as C. Candidissima, which is a superior article,
and even figured in the Florist's Magazine as such. There
is also another flower by this name, but very inferior, being
only semi-double. Superb.

C. Palmer's perfection, dark crimson, inclining to pur-

Ele, very large, perfectly double, and of handsome form; a
•ee bloomer. Magnificent.

C. Pdrksii, or Park's rose striped ; pale rose marked with
white ; flower about four inches in diameter ; petals large,
round, and irregular; centre showing a few stamens. This
flower is to some sweet-scented — leaves two and a half
inches wide and three and a half inches long ; roundish,
oval, and slightly acuminate — deeply separated; plant of a
stiff growth. Superb. (There is a French Parksii : single
crimson.)

C. Philadelphia, (Smith's,) flowers four and a half to
five inches in diameter; the circumference petals large
and round ; those of the interior smaller, with a little con-
vexity, perfectly double, colour changeable, bright crimson,
spotted with white ; dark rose, fading to the centre, or all
crimson : even the same plant producing all the variety ;
plant of an upright branching habit ; leaves ovate, acumi-
nate, of medium size, and a very dark dull green ; bloomed
first in 1834, when only two years from the seed, and the
flower was then four and three-quarter inches in diameter.
Magnificent.

C. picturata: leaves three and a half inches wide and
four and a half inches long, of a bright green ; flower four

inches in diameter ; spherical and extremely double ; petals
of the centre irregular and closely folded ; th

those of the peri-

224 GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING. [March.

phery or circumference, round and entire, of a pure white,
occasionally striped with red — a few hidden stamens — plant
of an elegant habit. Magnificent.

C. pomponia, or Kew blush, flowers over four inches in
diameter ; white, with a tinge of blush at the bottom of the
petals, which has a good effect in setting off the flower.
They frequently bloom all blush, having one or two rows
of guard or outside petals ; those of the inside are short,
stubby, and generally irregular, continues long in flower,
yellow anthers among the short petals, and seeds when the
female organ is perfect ; foliage similar to pseoniflbra, a
very fast grower, and flowers freely. Superb.

C. Prattii;* flower bright rose, full four inches in dia-
meter, frequently every petal having a white stripe from
the apex to the base, very closely and regularly imbricated
to the very centre : in every respect equally as well formed
as C. imbricata; leaves two and a half inches wide and
four inches long, of a rich smooth green — is a plant of free
growth and profuse flowering ; bloomed first in 1 830.
With pleasure we say, it is our first seedling of merit.
Magnificent.

C. Punctata, see Invincible.

C. Prince Albert, pale rose, stripjd with bright red, very
distinct ; a Chinese variety perfectly double, a large flower ;
petals rather short in the centra. Magnificent.

C. Queen of England, dark rosy crimson, with an occa-
sional spot oi white; large, imbricated arid fully double.
Magnificent.

C. rosa sinensis, a large double flower, four inches in
diameter ; colour bright rosy pink, petals long and full,
closely imbricated to the centre: a very distinct variety,
with beautiful dark green shining foliage, two inches wide
and three and a half long ; grows and flowers freely. Mag-
nificent.

C. rusea, (China,') petals regularly and perfectly imbri-
cated, flower frequently star-shaped, like Hume's blush,
about three inches in diameter ; colour bright rose, chang-
ing to rosy purple ; foliage pale green ; leaves one and a
half inches wide and three inches long; plant of slender

* In compliment to our late and esteemed patron, H. Pratt, Esq.,
of Lemon Hill.

March.'] GREEN-HOUSE— -REPOTTING. 225

habit, though well formed, and a profuse bloomer. Mag-
nificent.

C. riibra-pleno, or GreavilPs double red, is a strong
growing and free flowering variety. The flowers are
large, irregular, and very double, and are of long duration ;
foliage of a yellowish green, leaves two inches wide and
three inches long; pknt of a stiff' habit. Superb.

C. Rossii ; buds very pointed; flower four inches in
diameter ; petals of the periphery large, graduating smaller
to the centre, though a little irregular, perfectly double,
colour red, with an occasional tinge of white ; foliage dull
green, ovate, acuminate, pointed, and pendent ; plant of a
good habit and free of bloom. Superb.

C. Saccoi, bright rose, imbricated form, very perfect,
fading to pale rose, a free bloomer. Magnificent.

C. Sherwoodii, rosy crimson, frequently spotted with
pure white, very double, petals reflexed when fully open,
a free grower and profuse bloomer. Magnificent. A
seedling by Mr. Sherwood, of Laurel Hill.

C. sesanqua rosea. See among the species.

C. speciosa is a most splendid variety, has been called
Chinese striped Waratah. The guard petals are large,
round, and bold; colour crimson with stripes of white ; the
centre is full of irregular small petals, and spotted ; the
foliage three inches wide and four inches long, and more
heart-shaped than any of the others ; grows freely, flower
persistent, four inches in diameter, and highly esteemed,
and considered one of the finest of the coloured Camellias.
Magnificent.

C. spicdtum; foliage very dark shining green ; leaves
two and a half inches wide and four inches long, very
pointed; flower bright red, nearly four inches in diameter;
circumference petals large and round, gradually diminish-
ing to the centre, and concealing a few stamens : the plant
grows and flowers freely, and is of an upright branching
habit. Superb.

C. spUndens; rosy red, flower full and bold, nearly four
inches in diameter; petals few, but very large and round,
lying gently over each other, showing a few stamens in the
centre — is very attractive and conspicuous in a collection ;
foliage dark green, ovate, acuminate. Superb.

C. spoffbrthiana; foliage deep plain green, acutely ser-

226 GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING. \_Mdrcll.

rated, plant handsome and vigorous ; flower three and a
half inches in diameter, of a pure white, with an occasional
red stripe ; petals rather irregular, full and double, though
showing a few stamens. Superb.

C. spofforthiana cornea; flower larger than the former,
otherwise very similar. Superb.

C. sweetia vera; leaves three inches long and four
inches wide, distinctly serrate, of a fine shining green,
plant of an upright free-growing habit ; flower nearly four
inches in diameter, with three rows of circumference petals
—rose white, sprinkled with bright red ; those of the centre
small and erect, concealing a few sterile stamens. Magni-
ficent. There is a spurious plant out under this name,
which is very inferior.

C. tricolor; foliage pale green, two inches wide and
three and a half inches long, distinctly serrated, with the
nerves very prominent; flower full four inches in diameter
— semi-double ; petals large and round — very beautifully
set ; colour white, shaded with various shades of red, rose,
&c. A superb variety to produce seeds, having the female
organ very perfect, and was introduced from China by Dr.
Siebold. Superb. -

C. triumphans; foliage dark green: leaves roundish
oval, slightly pointed with nerves, and serratures very dis-
tinct ; flower nearly four inches in diameter, of a bright
cherry red, shaded with rose; petals regular, round, and
large, a little recurved at the extremity, and gracefully im-
bricated to the centre, which is occasionally striped with
white : the plant is of a good habit and free growth. Mag-
nificent.

C. variabilis: this is a sportive variety of C. pseoniflora,
with flower and foliage of same character; frequently
blooming rose-striped, or marked with pink, blush, &c.
Magnificent.

C. variegata is one of the old standard varieties, and
very much esteemed. It is striped with red and white ;
sometimes the ground is red, with Avhite streaks or blotches,
and vice versa; nearly four inches in diameter, petals large
and round, rather loose, centre showing a number of sta-
mens ; foliage very fine dark green, three inches wide and
four inches long. We have had seed from it. Plant of a
good habit and a profuse bloomer. Superb.

March.'] GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. 227

C. Walbdnkiana; foliage pale green, two inches broad
and nearly four inches long ; plant of rather loose habit ;
flower greenish white, full four inches in diameter; petals
large and oval, irregularly tufted, showing a number of
stamens, though very double. We are inclined to believe
that this is the lutea alba of some catalogues. Superb.

C. Wdrdii; very dark green foliage; leaves rather
cordate and undulate, of a coriaceous texture ; plant of a
branching stiff habit ; flower full three inches in diameter,
very persistent — circumference petals large and round ;
those of the interior small, round, and closely set, rather
flattened, colour vivid crimson. This fine variety is another
by Mr. Floy, of New York. Superb.

C. PFoodsii; foliage light green; leaves two inches wide
and four inches long ; plant of a rapid growth and regular
shape ; flower four and a half inches in diameter, of a bright
rose-colour ; petals large and rounding in the periphery ;
those of the centre rather irregular — perfectly double, and-
blooms with difficulty. We have observed it to bloom
finest when a gentle heat was applied, or when the plant
flowered in March or April. Magnificent. (Soil No. 11
for the whole family.)

There is another Camellia named Woodiana, with foliage
very similar to the former, but the flower is cherry red and
only semi-double. We beg to observe that, in giving de-
scriptions of the camellia, we have invariably, as far as
known, described the best variety, where there were several
varieties under one name. The new varieties in this beau-
tiful family of plants are increasing with astonishing rapi-
dity. The seedlings of this country alone, would of them-
selves form a collection of every shade and colour, though
many of them are almost alike, especially among the whites
and reds — nearly fac-similes except in foliage. The de-
scription of such we have carefully avoided. Indeed, we
boldly assert, though an extensive cultivator of over two
hundred varieties, that there are not more than one hun-
dred varieties known worthy of a passing remark, except
for their deformed character.

Carmichselia austrdlis, the only species, has very curi-
ous foliage, which the lilac legurhinose flowers come out
of, and continue from April to June. (Soil No. 6.)

Ceanothus azureus is the only species of the genus

228 GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTiNO. [March.

worth cultivating; it blooms profusely from May to July,
and has considerable attraction with its brilliant blue spikes
of small flowers. (Soil No. 6.)

Chorizemas, about ten species, foliage very variable ;
flowers small and papilionaceous, often very profuse ; colour
red and yellow; though small, they are very neat. C.
nana and C. ilicifolia are pretty ; but nothing of the kind
can exceed C. ovdta and C. Henchmanii, with their beau-
tiful scarlet blossoms, which are in great profusion; if
grown from seed, they will flower freely the second year ;
drain the pots well. (Soil No. 6.)

Cinerarias, Cape aster, about twelve belong to the green-
house. They are herbaceous, or half shrubby, soft wooded
plants. C. speciusa, C. amelloldes, (now called Jlgathaea
coelestus,) C. purpitrea, and C. lanata, are among the finest
of the species; flowers blue or yellow; the latter is con-
sidered the handsomest of the genus. The exterior petals
are bright purple, and the interior ones white, and, with
A. ccelestus, flowers most of the year ; flowers syngenesious
and star-like. The herbaceous species must be treated as
previously mentioned for that kind of plant. The new
hybrids of this genus are rivaling the species, both for
beauty of colour and size of flower ; among these are C.
Kingii, C. triumphant, C. caslestis, C. ignescens, C. Hen-
d€rs6nia,and V. IVaterhousia. (Soil No. 12.)

Cinnambmum camphora is the camphor tree of com-
merce ; is an excellent evergreen, but has no beauty in its
flower. The foliage, when bruised, has a camphorated
odour. (Soil No. 10.)

Cistus, or Rock rose. There are above thirty species,
principally natives of Europe, consequently hardy there,
and form a great ornament to their gardens, being very
abundant and various in flower ; but with us they will not
stand the rigour of winter. We have no doubt, however,
but, through time, some kinds may be grown that will
withstand the greatest cold of the middle states ; they are
low shrubby plants, of easy cultivation. C. laduniferus,
C. sdlignus, C. populifolius, C. imdulutus, and C.formo-
sus, are perhaps the best : the flowers are of short duration,
frequently only for one day ; but the quantity makes up
this deficiency, being constantly in flower in May and June,
and sometimes flower again in autumn. C. creticus is

March.'] GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. 229

most productive of the gum laudanum, which is secreted
about its leaves and branches. The flowers are generally
five-petaled, and some of them large and showy ; centre
full of stamens. (Soil No. 3.)

Citrus. This genus contains the most grand and noble
of fruit-bearing trees : Loudon says, " The golden apples of
the heathens, and forbidden fruit of the Jews, are supposed
to allude to this family." They are all handsome ever-
green shrubs or trees, bearing highly odoriferous flowers
and beautiful golden fruit. In cultivation, the orange fruit
is dry and more insipid than in the tropics, but the lemon
is far superior in its quality. The varieties of orange are
extensive, nearly eighty kinds being cultivated in Italy ;
but, with us, the sweet, sour, and rough-skinned are the
principal sorts, and more recently we cultivate the manda-
rin, otaheitean, and other beautiful dwarf Chinese varieties;
also, the striped-leaved varieties of Bergamotte. The lemon
are nearly as numerous, though not so apparently distinct ;
it is very valuable as a cultivated fruit, and should be in
every green-house or conservatory. The lime and the
shaddock should not be overlooked, as they are very orna-
mental, especially the latter when it arrives at a fruit-bear-
ing state. (Soil No. 18, when young plants, and when
fruit-bearing keep from it the portion of sand.)

Clematis, Virgin's Bower. There are only six of these
belonging to the green-house, all climbing plants. C. aris-
tata and C. brachiata are the best; flowers in racemose
clusters, pure white ; foliage small ; and natives of the
Cape of Good Hope. The foliage of C. aristata is cord-
ate and blotched. Some of the hardy species and varie-
ties make beautiful plants for the green-house, such as C.
Jlorida, C. sieboldi and P. coeriilea ; they are profuse
bloomers and free growers. (Soil No. 3.)

Clerodendron fragrans multiplex, frequently known
under the name of Volkamenia japonica, which is a very
different plant, and not supposed to be in this country. It
keeps in a good green-house, and flowers well, frequently
blooming during winter, and, if planted in the garden dur-
ing summer, will flower superbly. The flowers have a
delicious fragrance ; if the foliage is rubbed with the hand
the smell is not so pleasant. The leaves are large, round,
20

230 GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING. [_M(trch.

ovate and tomentose ; flowers corymbose, compact and ter-
minal. (Soil No. 12.)

Clethra arborea and C. .arborea variegata are both fine
shrubs ; the latter is preferable ; leaves are oblong, acumi-
nate and serrated, having a gold-coloured edge ; flowers
white, downy, in large branching racemose spikes, and
sweet-scented ; grows freely. (Soil No. 2.)

Clidnthus punicens,* or Glory flower. This magnificent
plant a few years ago produced great excitement among
European cultivators, which consequently reached this
country. The plant sold at extravagant prices, and cost
the writer upwards of fifty dollars to introduce a living
plant of it, which was done three years ago. The plant
has been cultivated in pots, and has not yet given general
satisfaction ; the leaves are smooth, pinnated, of a delicate
green, consisting of eight pairs and an old one ; the stem
is of a soft woody nature ; the splendid large scarlet, legu-
minose, pea-like flowers grow in clusters, hanging down
from the axils of the leaves on the lateral branches ; each
flower is about two inches long. To have it in perfection,
it must be grown in large pots, or planted in the ground in
the conservatory or green-house, or even a good pit would
do ; it is a native of New Zealand, and is tolerably hardy
in the south ; it makes a magnificent hardy shrub. (Soil
No. 10.)

CRvea nobilis, a tuberous herbaceous plant, closely allied
to JBrunsvigia. The flowers are said to be very splendid ;
colour scarlet and green : although it has been in the coun-
try several years, we are not aware of its ever having
bloomed. (Soil No. 11.)

• Cobsea scdndens, the only species. It is a climber of very
rapid growth, has been known to grow above two hundred
feet in one summer ; large bell-shaped flowers ; when they
are newly expanded, they are of a pale green colour, and
change to dark purple : will grow in the garden during
summer, bearing a continual profusion of flowers, but will
not stand frost. When this plant becomes too large in the

* A plant five feet high, and only eighteen months old, now in
the beautiful conservatory of Gen. R. Patterson, of this city, has
upward of fifty racemes or clusters' of flowers, varying from five
to nine on a raceme, and will be in full bloom in a few weeks ; this
is the finest specimen we have heard of in this country.

March.'] GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. 231

house, do not cut it close to the root, except there is a
young shoot arising to carry off the superabundant sap, for
the old wood will not push, which will soon cause a mor-
tification.

The best method to adopt in such a case is, to turn back
a shoot, and lay it in the ground to root, when it will be-
come a young plant, which should always be done as soon
as it appears unsightly. It does best to be planted in the
ground, but will not give any satisfaction as to flowering in
a pot. It will flower as an annual if sown in pots this
month, and placed in a warm room or hot-bed, and planted
into the garden about the middle of May ; it seeds freely.
(Soil No. 11.)

Coronilla, a very few are fine species in the green-
house. C. glaiica is a celebrated plant among us, as a
free and early flowering shrub. C. valentiana and C.
mmindlis are equally so, flower from April to June, colour
yellow ; papilionaceous flowers in clusters ; agree best in
summer with partial shade. Drain the pots well. (Soil
No. 12.)

Correct, five species and several varieties, all very pretty
dwarf shrubs, and flower profusely ; foliage ovate, cordate,
and either rusty or downy beneath. C. alba and C. rufa
have both white flowers a little tubular. C. pulchella is
a very handsome, erect growing plant ; flowers large and
tubular, of a bright red colour, and grows freely. C.
speciosa has been long admired as a splendid free-flower-
ing plant ; flowers same shape as C. pulchella, but more
elongated ; colour red and yellowish green. C. virens is
a very free grower, flowers same shape as the last two,
colour entirely green. The last three mentioned are abun-
dant flowerers, when the plants are well established ; hav-
ing a continued succession from November to June, pos-
sessing the valuable requisite of flowering through the
winter, and ought to be in every collection. They require
an airy situation and the pots to be well drained. The
plants in summer must not be fully exposed to the sun.
(Soil No. 6.)

Crdssula. This genus has now no plant in it attractive
in beauty. Several beautiful plants in our collections be-
long to Rochea and Kalosdnthus. There is a strong grow-
ing succulent plant, known in our collections as C.falcata,

232 GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. [March.

which is R.falcata. It seldom flowers; the minor variety
blooms profusely every year from May to August, and has
showy scarlet flowers in terminal panicles. The plants
known as C. coccinea and C. versicolor are now given to
the genus Kalosdnthus. The flowers of the former are
scarlet, wax-like, terminal, and sessile ; those of the latter
are rose and white, also wax-like, and are both desirable
plants, requiring very little water during winter. (Soil
No. 18.)

Cratagus. There are none of these belonging to the
green-house ; but there is a plant in the collections, known
as C. glabra, which is Photinia serrulata, a native of
China, and is a very handsome plant, has long foliage,
deeply serrated, very shining. P. arbutifolia, a native of
California, and is the finest of the genus; flowers in large
dense panicles, foliage larger than the former, and not so
deeply serrated ; they are both comparatively hardy, and
we soon expect to see them acclimated. (Soil No. 11.)

Crinum, several species do well in the green-house,
especially C. Mexicdnum, C. capense, and C. ascotica:
they require considerable pot room to make them do well.
(Soil No. 12.)

Crowea saligna is among one of the finest plants of New
South Wales. It flowers at the axils of the leaves, colour
pink, with five petals, connected by entangled hairs ; in
flower from April to December, and frequently through the
winter ; foliage lanceolate, and a fine green. The plant
grows neat, and requires an airy situation : drain the pots
well. (Soil No. 1.)

Cunonia capnesis, the only species, and a handsome
shrub, with large pinnated shining leaves, beautifully con-
trasted by numerous dense elongated branches of small
white flowers, and twigs of a red colour, having more the
habit of a tropical than of a Cape of Good Hope plant.
(Soil No. 2.)

Cupressus may be desired in collections, as erect and
handsome growing evergreen shrubs. C. lusitanica the
famed cedar of Goa ; C. pendula and C, juniperoides are
the most desirable ; the flowers are insignificant and yel-
lowish ; we have no doubt they may prove hardy. C.
lusitanica is the handsomest tree of the genus. Its abun-

March.] GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. 233

dant, very long dichotomous branchlets distinguish it from
all the evergreens of the conoferious tribe. (Soil No. 11.)

Cyrtdnthus, a genus of Cape bulbs, containing nine spe-
cies, and will do very well in the green-house, but we find
the assistance of the hot-house a great advantage. They
are closely allied to Crinum, The tubes of the flowers are
long and round, with various shades of orange, yellow, red,
and green. C. odorus, C. stridtus, C. obliquus, and C.
vittatus, are the finest. When the bulbs are dormant,
which will be from October to January, they should not
get any water ; before they begin to grow, turn the bulbs
out of the old earth, repotting it immediately. At this
time they should be potted with the bulbs of earth entire,
which will cause them to flower stronger. (Soil No. 12.)

Dampieras, four species. The genus is named in hon-
our of Captain W. Dampier, a famous voyager, has Lobe-
lia-like flowers, either blue or purple. C. purpurea, C.
undulata, and C. stricta, are the finest; the former two are
shrubby ; the latter is herbaceous ; they all flower freely.
(Soil No. 6.)

Daviesias, above ten species, principally natives of New
South Wales, all yellow papilionaceous flowers. D. uli-
cina, D. latifolia, D. aciculdris, and D. incrassata, are
very fine species, flower and grow freely, and require to be
well drained ; bloom from April to August. (Soil No. 6.)

Dillwynias, above twelve species, and plants very little
known. D, cinerescens, D.floribunda, D. teretifolia, and
D. phylicoides, are desirable plants ; flowers small, papilio-
naceous, and colour, yellow and red. They are very liable
to suffer from too much wet ; while dormant, therefore, the
pots must be effectually drained. (Soil No. 6.)

Diosmas. This pretty genus of heath-looking plants has
recently been very much divided by botanical professors.
The genera that they have been given to are Adenan-
dra, tfcmadenia, rfgathosma, and Barosma. However,
we incline to adhere to the original name, and recom-
mend D. capitata, D. oppositifolia, D. riibra, D. alba, D.
fragrdns, D. uniflora, D. serrati/olia, D. speciosa, and D.
pulchella. They are all profuse blooming plants, with
generally small flowers of a white lilac or pink colour. It
is supposed that the dried leaves of pulchella are used by
the Hottentots as powder to mix with the grease with which
20*

234 GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING. [Match,

they anoint their bodies. Some travelers assert that it
gives them so rank an odour, that they sometimes could
not bear the smell of those who were their guides. In fact,
the foliage of all, if rubbed by the hand while on the plant,
has a very strong smell, some of them very agreeable,
others disagreeable. They are all evergreen small neat
growing shrubs. They require, while growing luxuriantly,
to have their young shoots topped to. make them bushy ;
drain all the pots well, and keep them in airy situations,
and not crowded with other plants, or they will become
slender and unsightly. (Soil No. 6.)

Diplacus puniceus. This shrubby (mimulus) plant was
introduced by Mr. Nuttall from California, by seeds, in
1836, and sent by us to England in 1837. The flowers
are of a scarlet orange, about one inch and a half long, and
produced in pairs ; from the axils of the leaves, on young
wood, the plant requires considerable nourishment; for the
more rapid it grows, the more profuse are its flowers, which
bloom from May to September, and are rather showy. In
the southern states it will prove a hardy shrub, blooming
nearly the whole year. (Soil No. 12.)

Dracaena, or Dragon tree. The D. australis and D.
ferrea will keep in the green-house, and are attractive
plants for their foliage, especially the latter, which is of a
purple crimson and very unique ; the flowers are on large
terminal spikes. (Soil No. 11.)

Doryanthus excelsa, a Yucca looking plant belonging to
the natural order of Amaryllidea ; the leaves arise from the
root, and are about three inches wide and three feet long;
the flowers are bright crimson, surmounted on a stem about
twenty feet high. The plant does not bloom till it is of
considerable size. (Soil No. 10.)

Dryandras. This genus is closely allied in character
and habits to Bdnksia, and contains above sixteen species.
D. nivea has most beautiful foliage, very long and deeply
indented. D. formosa has a scent like the fruit of an
apricot. D. nervoso, D. Jloribunda, D. armata, D. plu~
mosa, D. Baxteri, D. nervosa, and D. falcdta, are the
most conspicuous, and all highly desirable plants in collec-
tions. They are very delicate of importation ; flowers are
straw and orange-coloured, and thistle-like. Seeds in

March."} GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. 235

small cones. Treat them the same as directed for Bdnk-
sias. (Soil No. 6.)

Dyckias, two species of very curious growing plants, of
a dwarf habit with bright orange flowers; they may be
cultivated with the aloe tribe, to which they have a simi-
larity. D. ranflora and I), ramotiflora; the latter is in
the country. (Soil No. 18.)

Echeveria, a genus of succulent plants chiefly from
Mexico and California. E. grandi/lora, flowers green and
red. E. pulvendenta, flowers red. The foliage of this
species is delicately covered with powder, which gives it a
very beautiful appearance. E. bicolor is also a pretty
species: they require to be kept very dry during winter.
(Soil No. 10.)

Edwdrdsias, about four species, very beautiful foliaged
plants, and have very curious yellow flowers, but do not
flower until the plant becomes large. E. grandlflora, E.
chrysophylla, and E. microphylla, are the best, and are
tolerably hardy, though doubtful of ever being acclimated.
The flowers are leguminose, foliage ovate, pinnate, from
eight to forty on one footstalk, and appear to be covered
with gold dust. The hardier they are grown, the more
visible it Avill appear. (Soil No. 11.)

Elichrysums. This genus is now extinct, and two
splendid species of it given to others. E, proliferum is
now Phoendcoma prolifera, and has beautiful purple rayed
flowers, and highly esteemed: the foliage small, round,
ovate, smooth, and closely imbricated. E. spectdbile is
now Jlphelexis humilis, has pine-like foliage, and large
light purple flowers ; care must be taken that they are not
over-watered ; drain the pots well. (Soil No. 6.)

Enkidnthus, only two species, both very fine. E. quin-
quKflorus has large ovate, acuminate foliage, flowers pink
and pendulous ; very handsome. E. reliculdtus, the foli-
age is netted, and the flowers blush : they are liable, when
dormant, to suffer from wet. Be sure to drain the pots
well, and be sparing in water while in that state. (Soil
No. 11.)

Epdcris, above twelve species, and all very ornamental.
E. grandi/lora has been celebrated ever since it was
known ; the foliage is small, flat, and acuminate ; flowers
tubular and pendulous, bright crimson, with a tinge of

236 GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING. [March.

white, and verv abundant, in flower from January to June.
E. pulchella is likewise a most beautiful plant ; foliage very
small and closely set, flowers pure white, and in long
spikes, sweet-scented. E. impressa, foliage impressed,
and flowers of a rose colour. E. paludosa, flowers white,

fows and flowers very handsomely, and is very fragrant.
. purpurdscens riibra is a variety, with good bright red
flowers. E. pallida, rose coloured, long tubular flowers.
E. nivalis, rosy white. E. Townii, beautiful rosy blush
colour. These with several others are very desirable.
They are mostly erect growing plants; flower from Janu-
ary till August, and a rough, turfy, sandy soil is found
most congenial. They are natives of the mountainous
districts of New South Wales. The pots must be well
drained ; the roots will run with avidity among the pot-
shreds. (Soil No. 6.)

Ericas, heath. There are in cultivation in Europe
above five hundred and fifty species and varieties of this
magnificent genus. About sixty years ago it consisted
only of a few humble British plants, with the heath of
Spain, E. Af edit err anea, which is at present most common
in our collections, though in a few years we may expect to
see it supplanted by others more splendid.

In their native countries they are adapted to a great
many useful purposes. In the north of Britain the poorer
inhabitants cover their cabins or huts with heath, and build
the walls with alternate layers of it and a kind of cement
made with straw and clay. They likewise brew ale and
distil spirits from the tender shoots ; and it has been known
to be used in dying, tanning, and many other useful do-
mestic purposes. Encomium on their beauty is not requi-
site; they are almost as diversified in colour as colour itself.
Many are graceful and elegant; hundreds are pretty; a
few noble and splendid ; others grotesque, curious and
odoriferous. To cultivate and propagate them is considered
one of the most delicate branches of floriculture. Never-
theless, it has been said by a scientific writer, that " those
who complain of the difficulty of growing the heath, are
ignorant people, who have never had a heath to grow." The
most splendid collection in Europe is under the care of Mr.
M'Nab, of the Royal Botanic Garden, Edinburgh, where
there are two large houses devoted to their culture ; and

March.'] GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. 237

through the whole year a continued profusion of bloom is
kept up. Some of the plants are eight feet in diameter,
and fourteen feet high. The soil used is a coarse sandy
peat. Pots drained with potshreds, and pieces of freestone
are put down the sides of the large pots and tubs : where
these can be had they are essential to the culture of moun-
tainous plants, preventing them from being saturated with
moisture, or from becoming dry, thus keeping the roots in
a medium state ; for if once the roots are allowed to get
thoroughly dried, no art of the gardener can recover them.
This may be the true reason why they are said to be diffi-
cult of cultivation.

In the summer season the pots must be kept out of the
violent sun, for in a few hours the pot would become heat-
ed, dry the roots, and cause death, or a brownness of foli-
age which would never again become natural. In winter,
too, much fire heat will also hurt them. They only require
to be kept free from trost, need a great deal of air, and
plenty of light ; consequently, should be placed near the
glass, that they may have the benefit of all the air that is
admitted. Their flowers are as varied in shape as variety
or colour, but they all partake of a wax-like nature, and
are very persistent. (Soil No. 5 for young plants : when
older, No. 6 will do better.)

The finest and most select varieties that appear to with-
stand the severity of the summer, are the following :

WHITE FLOWERS. YELLOW FLOW- RED FLOWERS.

ERS.

rfrborea, Bella,

JJowieana, Capitata, Canaliculata,

Caffra, Epistoma, Curviflora rubra,

Coiiferta, Grandiflora. Grdcilis,

Jesminaflora, SPAIITFT FTOW

Margaritdcea, SCARLET FLOW.

/-> I \ XiKb. _. v

Odorata, Pinea,

Pellucida, Ardcm, Mediterrdnea.

Phylicoides. Coccinea,

" grandiftora, PURPLE FLOW ERS.
Vennx coccinea,

Vestita coccinea. Amcena.

238 GREtfN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. [March.

Denticuldta, VARIOUS CO- Cruenta superba.

Fascicularis, LOURS. Rubida,

Hispidula, Tubiflora,

Mammosa, Jlbetina, Ventricosasuperba-

Pubescens, JBdccans, '

Tenella. Cerinthoides,

Eriabotryajaponica, Loquat, or Mespllus japonica, is a
fine plant, with large lanceolate, distinctly serrated leaves,
white underneath; small white flowers on a racemose
spike, and produces a fruit about the size of a walnut, of
a fine yellow blush colour, and of tartish flavour. If it
flowers in the autumn, it will require the heat of a hot-
house to ripen the fruit. It is of very easy culture, and
its noble aspect is never passed unobserved. It is per-
fectly hardy in the southern states, and forms a handsome
evergreen. (Soil No. 11.) '

Erodiums, Heron's bill. There are about thirty species,
all of a geranium character, and there are among them some
very pretty flowering, soft wooded, shrubby, herbaceous,
and annual plants. Only a few of them belong to the
green-house, of which E. incarnatum, E. crassifolium,
and E. laciniatum, are the finest ; culture similar to Gera-
nium. The flowers of these are scarlet, pentapetalous and
veiny. (Soil No. 10.)

Erythiina cristdgdlli, or Coral plant. If this magnifi-
cent scarlet flowering plant is desired to be kept in a pot
or tub, it must have a repotting every month till Septem-
ber: to keep it in fine blooming condition, it is worthy of
extra care, as it will bloom three times during the season,
if well treated. (Soil No. 18.) For other methods, see
Flower Garden for April, May and November.

Escallonia, a shrubby genus, of about ten species, of
rather neat blooming plants, of a strong shrubby habit.
They require great encouragement to flower them well, if
kept in pots : the best mode -of treatment would be to plant
them in pits with other half hardy shrubs. E. rubra, red
flowering; E. glandulosa, white; and E. blfida, pink, are
the finest. (Soil No. 12.) They are perfectly hardy south
of Virginia, and we are not certain but they may become
acclimated here.

Eucalyptus, above fifty species of them, and the tallest

March."] GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. 239

growing trees of New Holland; foliage very diversified,
generally of a hard glaucous texture. From their rapid
growth, they soon grow higher than the loftiest house.
The most conspicuous are, E. cordata, E. rostrata, E.
radidta, E. pulvigera, E. globifera, E, pulverulenta, and
E. resinefera. In Van Dieman's Land, a manufactory has
been established, where a tannin is extracted from many
of the species. The last-mentioned produces gum like
that which the druggists call Kino. They ought not to be
too much fostered, as it would in some degree retard their
growth. They are of a very hardy nature. When large,
the plants will flower freely, and are similar in flower to
Myrtle ; many stamina, proceeding from a hard nut-like
capsule. (Soil No. 6.)

Euonymus. One or two of this genus have been recently
introduced from China, and are found to be very orna-
mental, in having beautifully variegated, or rather margin-
ated foliage. E. japonicus aureas has golden-edged leaves,
and E. japonicus argenteus* has silvery-edged foliage ; the
flowers have no beauty ; the leaves are ovate, acuminate,
about one inch and a half broad and two inches and a half
long. (Soil No. 11.)

Eupatorium. There is only one species deserving of
cultivation in the green-house ; flowers syngenesious,
white, and in large flattened panicles ; very sweet-scented.
The plant, when growing freely, in the beginning of sum-
mer, should be topped, which would make it more bushy;
if not, it is apt to grow straggling. Known in our collec-
tions as E. eiegdns. (Soil No. 3.)

Entdxias, two species. E. myrtifolia is a most beau-
tiful free-flowering evergreen shrub; foliage small, but very
neat; flowers leguminose, small and very many; colour
yellow and red ; grows freely. The young plants should
be frequently topped, or they will grow naked and unsight-
ly. E. pitngens, similar to the other except in foliage.
They flower from March to June, and ought to have a
place in every green-house. Culture very easy. (Soil
No. 6.)

Ficus, a few species, are good plants for this department,

• This plant is in some collections as a variegated leaved ca-
mellia, and is perfectly hardy with us.

240 GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING. \_March.

especially F. dastica; leaves smooth, shining green, fre-
quently six inches wide and twelve long: this is the plant
that produces the gum elastic, or Indian rubber. F. aus-
trdlis is also an excellent evergreen, with elliptic dull green
foliage; very rusty underneath; they grow almost too
freely. (Soil No. 11.)

Fuchsia, or Ladies' Ear-drop. There are an endless
variety of this lovely genus of deciduous small shrubs now
cultivated, but there are only a few, to surpass the common
and celebrated Coccinea: true, many have been, and are,
represented as far surpassing it, but, when brought to the
test, they are, in some particular, found wanting. How-
ever, among the many, F. globosa, F. chauverii, F. ex-
oniensis, F. elegans superba, Champion Britannia, and
StanweMiana. These are very superb, dark varieties ; some
of the flowers are two and a half inches long and two inches
in diameter. The following are light coloured varieties,
indeed nearly white, with a purple or pink centre, form-
ing a beautiful contrast with the deep crimson and purple
sorts; F. rosea alba, F. bicolor, F. Queen Victoria, F.
chandlerii, F. venus victrix, Conspicua arbor ea, and Snow
Ball. To grow these in perfection, they require to be very
frequently shifted, as they advance in growth till you have
them in pots ten inches wide. Just now I have plants
only six months from the cutting that are four feet high
and sixteen feet in circumference, loaded with thousands
of flowers, and are the admiration of every beholder. They
require liberal supplies of water. F. fulgens is a distinct
species; the foliage is very different from any other sort;
leaves of a well-grown plant are four inches wide and five
inches and a half long : the flowers are from two inches
and a half to three inches long, of a pink and scarlet colour,
and the plant is nearly tuberous. We would recommend
our readers to grow them from seeds when obtained : it is
well known they will produce variety, and it is even sup-
posed by some that the seeds of F. coccinea have produced
by hybridizing nearly all the varieties of the present day,
which exceed one hundred : most of the flowers are a bright
scarlet, the stamens are encircled with a petal of bright
purple, and are of very curious construction; they bear a
dark purple berry, and are of the easiest cultivation ; but
during summer the pots must, be carefully kept from the

March.'} GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. 241

sun, although the plants will not be affected by it. If the
plants are young and growing freely, we find that a deluge
of rain, and afterward a hot day, is their instant death.
Some of them do tolerably well when planted in the flower-
garden early in May. (Soil No. 10.)

Fabidna, a genus of new plants that will prove entirely
hardy in the southern states; they are upright growing
shrubs, with delicate foliage. F. imbricata is the most
popular, producing a profusion of white tubular flowers
about an inch long, of easy culture in soil No. 12.

Gardoqula Hookeri, a very pretty dwarf plant — native
of the Floridas: it blooms profusely Yrom June to October;
flowers are about one inch and a half long, of a tubular
labiate form, of a bright orange colour ; it is easy of culture
in soil No. 1 .

Gelsem'nim nitidum, Carolina jasmine, a most beautiful
climbing evergreen, flowering shrub. In the months of
April and May it produces many large yellow trumpet-
like blossoms of delicious fragrance. If much encouraged
in growth, it will not flower so freely. (Soil No. 6.)

Genista: a few of these are very pretty free-flowering
shrubs. G. ramosus, G. canariensis, G. tricuspiddta, G.
cuspidosa, and G. wmbellata, are the finest green-house spe-
cies. All of them have yellow leguminose flowers in great
abundance; leaves small, lanceolate. (Soil No. 1.)

Gnaphalium, everlasting. There are above ten species,
most of them very splendid, persistent flowers. G. eximia
has briliant red flowers. G. spiralis, G. speciosissima, G.
fruticans, G. oriantalum, and G. imbricatum, are all very
fine ; pots must be well drained. (Soil No. 8.)

Gtiidias, about ten species of pretty green-house shrubs.
G. simplex, G. sericca, G. imberbis, and G. pinifolia,
flower the most freely ; flowers straw colour, tubular, and
corymbose. G. simplex is sweet-scented, leaves small ;
the pots must be well drained, and care taken that they do
not get either too wet or too dry, for the roots are very deli-
cate. The plants must be kept near the glass, or they will
be drawn weak. (Soil No. 6.)

Gorteria personata is the only species that belongs to

this genus, and is an annual. There are several plants in

our collections known as Gorterias, but which properly

are Gazania, of which there are five species. G. ringcns,

21

242 GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING. [March.

when the flowers are fully expanded, (which will only be
while exposed to the sun, closing at night and opening
again with the influence of the sun's rays,) is a great
beauty. The rays of the flowers are bright orange, and
the centre dark purple. G. pavonia has handsome foli-
age ; flower similar to G. rlngens, except the centre of
the flower being spotted, and is thought to be the finest,
but does not flower so freely. G. heterophylla is of the
same character, except the foliage, which is variable, the
colour orange and vermilion. They are dwarf-growing
plants, and during the months of July, August, and Sep-
tember, are liable to damp off' at the surface of the earth,
from the action of heat and too much water. Pots must be
well drained, and the plants kept partially in the shade.
Their flowers are syngenesious, and about two inches in
diameter. (Soil No. 9.)

Grevilleas, about thirty species. A few of them very
handsome in flower and foliage, among which are G. puni-
cea ; G. acanthifolia, (beautiful foliage ;) G. concinna, very
pretty straw and rose-coloured flowers ; G. juniperlna,
green and straw-coloured ; G. linearis, white flowers. The
flowers of the whole are curious, though not very attrac-
tive. Some carry their flowers in racemose spikes, others
on flowering branches, which are recurved ; the petals are
very small and rugged; the stile longer than the append-
age. They grow freely, flower and ripen seeds ; all ever-
green dwarf shrubs. (Soil No. 1.)

Habrdnthus, about ten species of small South American
bulbs, nearly allied to Amaryllis. H. jlndersonii, H.
versicolor, H. Candida, and H. robusta, are fine ; they are
in colour yellow, blue, white, and lilac. We have very
little doubt but these bulbs will do to plant out in the garden
in April, and be lifted in October. Keep them from frost.
Thus treated, they are very desirable. (Soil No. 12.)

Hdychrysums, above forty species, chiefly belonging to
the green-house, all everlasting flowers. H. grandiflbrum,
H. arboreum, H. fra grans, H. adoratlssimum, H. friiti-
cans, and H. fulgidum, are all very esteemed species,
mostly with soft downy foliage. The pots should be well
drained, and the plants kept in an airy situation, as they
suffer from the least damp. If the flowers are cut off be-
fore they fade, they will retain for many years all the

March.~\ GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING. 243

splendour of their beauty ; but if allowed to decay on the
plant, they will soon become musty, and all their colour
fade. (Soil No. 6.)

Hibbertias, about ten species. Three of them are known
to be fine climbing evergreen shrubs, namely, H. glossu-
larisefolia; H. dentata; H. volubilis, if closely approached,
has a disagreeable smell ; H. fasciculata, II. saligna, and
ff. pedunculata, are evergreen shrubs ; they have pure
yellow flowers of five petals, blooming from May to Sep-
tember. (Soil No. 12.)

Hoveas, about eight species, pretty plants of New South
Wales, blue pea-flowering evergreen shrubs ; the finest are
H. panosa, H. atropurpurea, H. linearis, H. rosmarinifo-
lia, H. longifolia, and H. Celsii, which is the most superb,
and flowers in abundance. They grow and flower freely ;
the pots should be drained. (Soil No. 6.)

Hypericums. St. John's wort, about twenty species. A
few of them are very showy, and, with few exceptions,
have yellow flowers. H. monogynum, H. balearicum, H.
floribundum, H. canariense, H. aegyptiacum, and H. cochin-
chinense, which has scarlet flowers, are among the best,
and all of them flower freely ; five petals, filaments many in
three or five parcels. They are all of very easy cultiva-
tion, and bloom generally from April to September. (Soil
No. 11.)

Hydrangea hortensis is a well-known plant, and much
esteemed for its great profusion of very elegant, though
monstrous, flowers. They are naturally of a pink colour,
but under certain circumstances of culture they become
blue. If grown in brown loam with a little sand, they will
preserve their original colour; but if grown in swamp earth
with a little mould of decayed leaves, they will become
blue.* The swamp earth and vegetable mould being more
combined with aluminous salt than brown loam, is the
cause of the change : and, when first found out, (which was
merely by chance,) was thought a great wonder. It must
have a very plentiful supply of water when in flower,
which is produced on the shoots of the previous year.

* Mix the iron sparks, from the blacksmith's shop, with any
kind of soil, and they will be a beautiful blue. One and a half
quarts to a bushel will do.

244 GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING.

They will neither grow nor flower well if they are not
kept constantly in the shade. When kept in the sun, the
foliage is ver-y brown; and by being neglected in watering,
we have seen the flowers completely scourged. H. japo-
nica, a new variety with pink flowers, a little fragrant.
Being tolerably hardy, when the winters are mild, by a
little protection in the open air, they will flower profusely ;
the flowers will be very large, and in bloom from June to
October. They are deciduous, soft-wooded shrubs.

Ilex, Holly, of /. aquifolium. There are above one
hundred of them in cultivation in Europe, differing in vari-
egation, margin, shape, and size of the leaves ; some are
only prickly on the margin of the foliage, others prickly
over all the surface. In Europe they are all hardy, but
with us few or none of the varieties are so. If they be-
come acclimated, they will be a great ornament to our
gardens, being all low evergreen shrubs. The most com-
mon and conspicuous varieties are the hedge-hog, striped
hedge-hog, white edged, gold edged, and painted; the
flowers are white and small, berries yellow or red ; they do
not agree with exposure to the sun. J. Cassine and J.
vomitoria have very bitter leaves, and, though natives of
Carolina, we have to give them the protection of a green-
house. It is said that at certain seasons of the year the
Indians make a strong decoction of the leaves, which makes
them vomit freely, and after drinking and vomiting for a
few days, they consider themselves sufficiently purified.
(Soil No. 15.)

Illiciums, Anise-seed tree, three species. I.Jloridanum
has very sweet-scented, double purple flowers, and the
plant grows freely and systematically if properly treated,
and deserves particular attention. /. parviflbrum has small
yellow flowers ; /. anisatum is so very like /. parviflorum
in every respect, as to make us conclude they are the
same, were 7. anisatum not a native of China, and the
other two natives of Florida. When the leaves and cap-
sules of either of them are rubbed, they have a very strong
smell of anise ; they grow very .freely. (Soil No. 1.)

Indigofera; Indigo tree, about twenty species, belong
to the green-house, and are chiefly pretty free-flowering
shrubs. /. denudata, I. amsena, I. austrdlis, I. angiddta,
L candicans, and 7. filifblia, are very fine ; flowers papi-

March."] GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. 245

lionaceous, in long panicles; colour various, red, blue, yel-
low, and pink. (Soil No. 6.)

Jacksonias, a genus consisting of five species. The
foliage is varied, and all natives of New South Wales. J.
scoparia, J. horrida, and J. reliculata, are the finest; the
small flowers come out of the young shoots, are yellow and
papilionaceous ; the pots should be well drained. (Soil
No. 6.)

Jambosa vulgdris, or Eugenia jdmbos, is a splendid
evergreen tree, producing a fruit of an agreeable odour and
called rose apple. J. australis has a very neat habit, and
produces purple fruit ; they are of the earliest culture in
soil No. 12.

Jasminum, Jasmine. A few species of this genus are
celebrated either for the green-house or rooms. J. odo-
ratissimumi Azorian, has very sweet-scented yellow flow-
ers, blooming from April to November. J. revolulum is
the earliest flowering one, and of the same colour ; it is apt
to grow straggling, and should be close pruned as soon as
done blooming, which will be in May. J. pubigemm is
also yellow. J. grandiflorum is frequently called Catalo-
nian, and should be pruned early in spring to make it
bloom well, especially old plants. J. multifldrum, profuse
flowering white. These plants are all perfectly hardy in
the southern states. J. officinale is a hardy climbing plant
for arbours, walls, &c. There are several varieties of it.
(Soil No. 3.)

Justicias. Only a few of the'se belong to the green-
house, and are very simple-looking flowers. (The most
beautiful of them belong to the hot-house.) J. nigricans,
small striped flower; «/. orchioides and J. Jtdhdtoda, Mala-
nut, are the only ones that are worth observation, and are
very easily cultivated in any soil.

jkennedias, about twelve species, all beautiful evergreen
climbers, of the easiest culture, and flower abundantly. K.
monophylla, blue-flowered, and K. rubicunda, crimson-
flowered, are common in our collections. K. prostrata,
one-flowered scarlet, and K. coccinea, many-flowered scar-
let, are very pretty. K. Comptonidna has splendid purple
flowers, K. nigricans, black flowers, and K. splendens and
K. marryatta are thought the most superb. They have
bright crimson flowers, and are yet rare in our collections.
21*

246 GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING. \_March.

The pots should be well drained ; flowers are either in race-
mose spikes, or solitary, which is rather too much distinc-
tion for the same genus. (Soil No. 6.)

Lambertias, four species of very fine plants, natives of
New Holland. L. formosa is the finest of the genus that
we have seen ; flowers large and of a splendid rose colour.
L. echinata is said to he finer, but has not flowered in
cultivation. L. uniflora has single red flowers, and L.
inermis orange-coloured. They are rare plants in the
.collections on this side of the Atlantic. Drain the pots
well; the foliage is narrow, and of a hard dry nature.
(Soil No. 1.)

Lasiopetalums, only two species. There were a few
more, but they are now Thomasias, plants ot no merit
whatever in regard to flower ; foliage three-lobed, small,
rough, and rusty-like. Thomdsia solandcea and T. quer-
cifolia are the best species ; foliage of the former is large,
cordate, and deeply indented ; they are all of the easiest
culture. (Soil No. 1.)

Lauras. A few species are green-house plants. This
genus has been divided to Cinnambmum; still there are a
few celebrated plants in the original. L. nobilis, sweet
bay, though hardy, is kept under protection. It will bear
the winter with a little straw covering ; notwithstanding,
there should be a plant kept in the house in case of acci-
dent by frost or otherwise ; there is a variegated variety of
it. L. indica, royal bay, L. fcetens, L. aggregdta, and
L. glduca, are favourite's. There is a species known in
our collections as L. scdbra. The Camphor tree, known
as L. camphora, is Cinnamomum camphora; the wood,
leaves, and roots of this tree have a very strong odour of
camphor. It is obtained by distillation from the roots and
small branches, which are cut into chips, and put into a
net suspended within an iron pot, the bottom of which is
covered with water, having an earthen head fitted in it ;
heat is then applied, and the steam of the boiling water
acting upon the contents of the net, elevates the camphor
into the capital, where it concretes on the straws, with
which this part of the apparatus is lined. They are all
fine evergreens, (which the name denotes,) and easily cul-
tivated. (Soil No. 10.)

Lavdndulas, Lavender. About seven species belong to

March.'] GREEN-HOUSE— -REPOTTING. 247

the green-house, and a few of them very pretty soft-wood-
ed, half shrubby plants, and, if touched, are highly scented.
L. dentuta has narrow serrated foliage, very neat; L.for-
mosa and L. pinnata are desirable ; blue flowers on a long
spike ; should be kept near to the glass : they are of the
easiest culture. (Soil No. 7.)

Lechenaiiltia ; four species of pretty dwarf blooming
plants. L.formosa is almost always a picture with its
bright scarlet flowers and heath-like foliage, and ought to
be in every collection; L. biloba and L. Drummondii are
both blue, though very rarely seen in bloom ; fine plants
two years old, with us have not yet shown a flower ; they
must have an airy situation and near the front glass ; other-
wise they will be weak and spindling. (Soil No. 19.)

Leonotis, Lion's-ear, four species. They have very fine
scarlet tubular flowers, orifice-toothed. They come out in
large whorls, and look elegant; but neither plant nor foli-
age has an agreeable appearance. They are of the easiest
culture. L. intermedia and L. Leonurus are the best flow-
ering species. (Soil No. 7.)

Leptospermums, about thirty species, all pretty New
Holland evergreen dwarf shrubs, with small white flowers.
L. baccatum, L. pendulum, L. juniperinum, L. ovdtum,
Jj. stellatum, L. grandiflorum, and L. scoparium, are the
best of the species. The latter was used as tea by the
crew of Captain Cook's ship. It is an agreeeble bitter,
with a pleasant flavour when fresh. When young plants
are growing, they ought to be frequently topped to make
them bushy, and kept in an airy situation, or they will be
drawn and unsightly. They are of very easy culture.
(Soil No. 1.)

Leucadendrons, Silver tree, above forty species, all na-
tives of the Cape of Good Hope. They are evergreens,
with handsome silvery-like foliage. L. argenteuni (once
Protas argentea) is a great beauty ; foliage white, lanceo-
late and silky. It is a plant that has been long in cultiva-
tion, greatly admired, and much sought for, and is the
finest of the genus. L. squarrdsum, L. stellatum, (once
Protea stellaris,} L. tortum, L. serviceum, L. margina-
tum, and L. plumosum, (once P. parviftora,} are all fine
species. The pots must be well drained and the plants

248 GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING.

never over-watered. They are very desirable in collections
for their beauty of foliage. (Soil No. 9.)

Leucospermums, about eighteen species of Proteacous
plants, chiefly low growing, and are mostly downy or hairy;
flowers yellow, in terminal heads. L.formosum, L. gran-
diflorum, L. tomentosum, and L. candicans, rose-scented.
These are fine species. For treatment, see Proteas. (Soil
No. 9.)

Linums, flax, two or three species are very fine, and
flower freely. L. trigynum has large yellow flowers in
clusters, and L. ascyrifolium, whose flowers are large,
blue and white, and in long spikes. They bloom in Feb-
ruary ; the shape of them is very like the flower vulgarly
called Morning-glory. (Soil No. 4.)

Liparias, about five species, much esteemed for their
beauty of foliage; leaves ovate, lanceolate, downy or wool-
ly; flowers yellow, leguminose and capitate. L. sphserica,
L. tomentosa, L. villosa and L. sericea, are the finest. L.
vistita and L. villosa are the same, although put in many
catalogues as different species. None of them ought to be
much watered over the foliage, as it adheres to the down,
and causes the young shoots to damp off'. Drain the pots
well, and keep the plants in an airy situation. (Soil
No. 6.)

Lobelias. Several of them, when well treated, form
pretty flowering plants ; they are principally herbaceous.
The genus consists of about eighty species; seventy of
them are exotics; many of them natives of the Cape of
Good Hope, with little flowers of brilliant colours. L. cce-
rulea, L, Thunbergii, L. corymbosa, L. pyramiddlis, Z-.
erines, and L. illicifolia, are very fine species, of weak
growth, but flower freely. (Soil No. 4.)

fjOnicerajaponica. There is a plant in our collections
known by that name, which is now Nintooa longiflora;
flowers of a straw colour, but come out white. It has been
known to withstand the winter, but does not flower, and is
frequently killed entirely. (Soil No. 3.)

Lophospermum scdndens. This is a magnificent climb-
ing soft-wooded shrub, with rosy purple, campanulate flow-
ers, which are produced from the axils on the young wood;
they bloom from May to September ; leaves large, cordate,

March.'] GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. 249

and tomentose; grows rapidly, and flowers abundantly.
(Soil No. 3.)

Lychnis corondta is an esteemed Chinese plant; flowers
in abundance, pentapetalous, large, and a little indented at
the edges ; colour a red-like orange ; flowers terminal and
axillary. A good method of treatment is to divide the
roots, and plant some of them in the garden ; they will
flower well, and could be lifted in the fall, and put under
protection. If not done so, plant them in four-inch pots,
and repot them into those of six-inch in May. Do not ex-
pose them while in flower to the mid-day sun, for it will
deteriorate the fine orange colour. (Soil No. 9.)

Lysinemas, four species, closely allied to Epdcris. In
every respect treatment the same. L. pentapitalum, L.
conspicum and L. roseum, are the best ; the flowers of the
former two are white. (Soil No. 6.)

Magnolias. There are four species that require the pro-
tection of our green-houses; all the others are hardy. M.
fuscata and M. annonaefolia are very similar in foliage and
flower : the young branches and leaves of M.fuscdta are
covered with a brown, rusty-like down ; the other by some
is considered merely a variety; flowers small, brown, and
very sweet-scented. M. pumila is very dwarf-growing;
leaves large and netted ; flowers semi-double, white, pend-
ent, and exceedingly fragrant. They are natives of China.
We have several others from the east, but being deciduous
are perfectly hardy. M. odoratissima, now Talduma Con-
dolii, is a native of the Island of Java, and considered
odoriferous, but it is very rare even in Europe ; said to have
a straw-coloured flower. (Soil No. 9.)

Manettia; a genus of pretty climbing plants producing a
profusion of scarlet flowers, especially C. gldbra, (of Don,)
or cordifolia, (of Paxton,) which is a complete mass of
flowers from July to October, and is a lovely object when
turned into the borders during summer. M. bicolor, red
and yellow, blooms throughout the winter, and is a charm-
ing climber in that dull period of flowers ; they are of the
easiest culture in soil No. 17.

Melafeucas, above thirty species, and a beautiful genus
of New Holland plants, of easy culture ; flowers come out
of the wood-like fringes. M. elliptica, M.fulgens, scarlet,
M. decussdta, M. hypericifolia, M. squarrosa, M. linari-

250 GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING. [March.

folia, M. incana, M. tetragonia, M. thymifofia, are all
very fine species, and flower freely if they have been grown
from cuttings ; the singularity of flower and diversity of
foliage make them generally admired. (Soil No. 1 .)

Melastoma nepalensis is a good green-house species,
flowering freely during winter, of a pale blush colour, and
is of the easiest culture. As soon as done blooming, the
plant should be well cut in to keep it into shape. (Soil
No. 1.)

Menziesia is a family of pretty dwarf British plants,
very similar to the Erica in flower, and requiring the same
mode of treatment: they bloom in July and August. (Soil
No. 6.)

Mespilus. See JEryabotrya.

Metroslderos, about fifteen species. Many have been
added to Callistemon. M.flbvida, M. umbellcita, and M.
angustifolia, C. salignum, C. lanceoldtum, C. semperflo-
rens, C. glaiicum, once M. speciosa, and C. formosum ;
these are all beautiful plants, with scarlet flowers. Other
two beautiful species with white flowers have been given
to rfngophora. Jl. cordifolia, once M. hispida, and Jl.
lanceolata, once M. costata ; these genera are very easily
distinguished from any other Australasian shrubs, by the
peculiar character of having both sides of the leaves alike.
The flowers consist of stamens, stiles, and anthers, coming
in hundreds out of the young wood for the length of three
or four inches, forming a dense cone crowned with a small
twig, hence frequently called " bottle brush plant;" leaving
capsules in the wood, which will keep their seeds perfect
for a great number of years. They grow freely, and the
pots should be well drained. (Soil No. 1.)

Afyrsines, Cape Myrtle, dwarf cape evergreen shrubs
covered with small flowers from March to May. M. retusa
has purple flowers ; -M. rotundifolia, flowers white and
purple. They will grow in any situation, and are of easy
culture. (Soil No. 1.)

Myrtus, Myrtle, is a well-known and popular shrub,
especially the common varieties, and was a great favourite
(even to adoration) among the ancients. It was the mark
of authority for Athenian rulers, and is among the moderns
an emblem of pre-eminence. They are elegant evergreen
shrubs with an agreeable odour. M. commiinis multiplex,

March."] GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. 251

double flowering, is a very neat shrub, and flowers abun-
dantly. M. commiinis, leucocdrpa, white-fruited myrtle.
M. itdlica variegdta, striped leaved ; M. itdlica maculdta,
blotch leaved, are very fine shrubs ; and M. tomentosa,
Chinese myrtle, is a magnificent erect growing shrub, with
a white down over the foliage ; the flowers are the largest
of the genus. When they first expand they are purple,
and afterward change to white, so that there are beautiful
flowers of several shades of colour on the plant. We have
not the smallest doubt but this species will become, in
many instances, as plentiful as the common myrtle. It is
more easily grown, but cannot s:and much exposure to the
sun in summer. M. tenuifolia is a very fine plant, and a
native of New South Wales. Myrtles in general should
be sprinkled with water in the evening, to keep off the red
spider. (Soil No. 11.)

Nandlna domestica, the only species, and a popular
shrub in the gardens of Japan, where it is called Nandin.
It has supra-decompound leaves, with entire lanceolate
leaflets, a kind of foliage that is very rare ; the flowers are
small whitish green, in panicles, succeeded by berries of
the size of a pea; drain the pots well. (Soil No. 1.)

Nerium (Oleander) is a genus of beautiful erect grow-
ing evergreen shrubs, of the easiest culture, and abundant
in flower. N. oleander is the common rose-coloured single
flowering species, from which many varieties have origi-
nated. At present the most popular is N. oleander splen-
dens, which has a double rose-coloured flower, N. o. stridta,
fl. JD/., has double striped flowers. N. meter ophy Hum has
very large double pink flowers. N. o. raginot, or tangle,
has deep crimson flowers striped with white, though they
are frequently of a pink colour. N. o. purpiirea, dark red.
There is one that has got into our collections as double
white, which is only semi-double. N. oleander elegan-
tissimum, a most beautiful plant, with deep silver-edged
foliage ; and the young wood is striped white and green.
There are likewise single yellow, single white, and single
blotched varieties of N. oleander. They are subject to the
small white scaly insect, and should be frequently washed,
as has been directed, to keep it off. (Soil No. 12.)

Oleas, Olive, about twelve species and varieties. O.
Europsea longifolia is the species that is cultivated to such

252 GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING.

an extent in the south of France, and Italy. 0. Europsea
latifolla is chiefly cultivated in Spain. The fruit is larger
than that of Italy, but the oil is not so pleasant, which is
obtained by crushing the fruit to a paste, and pressing it
through a woollen bag, adding hot water as long as any
oil is yielded. The oil is then skimmed off" the water, and
put into barrels, bottles, &c., for use. The tree seldom
exceeds thirty feet, and is a branchy, glaucous evergreen,
and is said to be of great longevity. Some plantations at
Turin, in Italy, are supposed to have existed from the time
of Pliny. It frequently flowers in our collections, but sel-
dom carries fruit ; flowers white, in small racemose axil-
lary spikes. O. capensis has thick large oblong foliage ;
flowers white, in large terminal panicles. O. verrucusa,
foliage flat, lanceolate, and white beneath, branches curi-
ously warted. O.fragrdns blooms in winter; foliage and
blossoms are both highly odoriferous ; the plant is much
esteemed in China, and is said to be used to adulterate and
flavour teas. Leaves are elliptic, lanceolate, and a little
serrated ; flowers white in lateral bunches. It is subject to
the small, white scaly insect, and ought to be carefully
kept from them by washing. O. roaea has pink flowers.
O. paniculata is also a fine species. They are all very
easily cultivated. (Soil No. 11.)

Oxylobiums, seven species, plants very similar to Cal-
listachys, with ovate, cordate, light-coloured, pubescent
foliage, with papilionaceous flowers. O. obtusifdlium has
scarlet flowers; O. retusum, orange flowers ; and O. ellip-
ticum, yellow flowers. They grow freely, and should be
well drained ; flower from May to August. (Soil No. 6.)

Passiflora; a celebrated genus of climbing plants, called
in common "Passion Vine." Those belonging to the
green-house flower during summer. Several of them are
both beautiful and profuse in bloom, especially P. Kermo-
sine, P. princeps, P. hybrlda, P. fragrans, and are very
distinct species; the former is of a beautiful rosy crimson
colour. (Soil No. 13.)

Pelargoniums, Stork's Bill. This genus, so universally
known among us as Geranium, from which it was sepa-
rated many years ago, is a family of great extent and variety
for which we are principally indebted to the Cape of Good
Hope. There are many hundred species, with upwards

March."] GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTIVG. 253

of eight hundred beautiful and well-marked varieties,
which have been obtained from seed. They are of every
character, colour, and shade, of the most vivid description.
The easy cultivation of the Pelargonium tribe, or Gera-
niums, as they are commonly called, has rendered them
very popular ; also the agreeableness of scent and fragrance,
of which many of them are possessed, makes them favour-
ites.

Their flowering season is also of considerable duration,
especially the bright scarlet and crimson varieties, which
bloom from March till August, rendering them quite indis-
pensable in collections. Some growers complain of their
straggling habits ; but it is only those that do not know how
to prune them : even some of the choice kinds of the pre-
sent day could not be made to grow irregularly — such as
Perfection, King, Witch, Nymph, Sapphire, and others ;
indeed, within these few years, the habits and beauties of
the plant are improved a hundred-fold, and those who are
only acquainted with the old sorts would be transported
with a view of the dazzling and beauteous colony of the
new kinds that have been procured by hybridizing those
of good habit and character.

The best method to adopt in impregnating these is, to
choose the female, one that has large flowers, of easy cul-
tivation, and as nearly allied in character and other habits
as possible. When a flower of the intended female is newly
expanded, take a pair of very fine-pointed scissors, and cut
off the anthers before the pollen expands ; then, as soon as
the summit of the stile divides, apply the pollen taken
from the anthers of the intended male plant on a very fine
camel hair-pencil, or cut out the stigma entirely, and place
the anther on the summit of the stile, which, if correctly
done, will have the desired effect. As soon as the seed is
ripe, sow it in light sandy soil; and when it has come up,
take care not to over-water the soil, which would cause
them to damp off. When they are about one inch high,
put them into small pots, and treat as the other varieties.
Have them all distinctly marked until they flower, which
will be in the second year from the time of sowing.

The tuberous and fleshy stemmed species are very inte-
resting to the discriminatiner inquirer. Their habit and
22

254 GREEN-HOUSE— REPOTTING. \_MttrcJl.

constitution are so peculiar, that we have frequently won-
dered that they have not heen separated into distinct genera.
The cultivation of them is more difficult, water being very
prejudicial to them when they are inactive. If they are
well managed, they flower beautifully, and the colours are
very superior and peculiar, having frequently bright green
and purple in the same flower.

The following list comprehends the most desirable varie-
ties that we have seen :

PURE WHITE, PINK,

MARKED OR STRIPED WITH MARKED OR CLOUDED WITH
RED, PURPLE OR CRIMSON. RED OR CRIMSON.

Alexandrina, Aglaia,

Annette, Corrine,

Cecilia, Eliza,

Grandis, Fanny Garth,

Madonna, Lady Mayoress,

Mrs. Clay, Mrs. Peck,

Una, Mrs. Stiles,

Witch. Ophelia,

Priory Queen,

Sylph,
BLUSH, Victory.

MARKED OR STRIPED WITH

RED, &C. ROSE,

Alba multiflora, early, WITH STRIPES OR SPOTS.

Alicia,

Bridegroom, Conqueror,

Florence, Flash, large spot,

Lady Dillon, Flamingo, large mark,

Miss Percival, Harrisonii,

Nymph. Hebe,

Lady Douro,

Madeline,

Nonsuch,

March.']

President,

Siddonia,

Triumphant,

Vulcan,

Vivid.

GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING.

255

Grand Monarch,

Jewess,

Perfection, (Dennis,)

King of Hanover,

Emperor.

RED OR SCARLET,

WITH STRIPES OR SPOTS.

Alarm,

Climax,

Comte de Paris,

Erectum,

Grand Sultan,

Gauntlet,

Goliah,

Henry Clay,

Isadorianum,

King,

Lifeguardsman,

Oliver Twist,

Sapphire,

Prince of Waterloo.

DARK RED,

WITH SPOTS OR STRIPES.

Conservative,
Grand Turk,

VERY DARK CRIMSON,
OR PURPLE,

MARKED WITH BLACK.

Ajax, (purple,)

Black Hawk,

Cassius,

Lenoxii, very beautiful,

Gipsey,

Mulatto.

VARIOUS, CURIOUS AND FINE
SORTS.

Bipinnatifidum,

Comptonianum,

Echinatum,

Maculatum,

Sanguineum,

Tricolor,

Tricolor major.

There are several others very recently introduced, which
have not bloomed so as to allow us to judge of their merits ;
but their foreign characters are highly nattering. The re-
potting of the geranium tribe should be done as early in
the month as possible, or even about the end of last month
would be advisable in some seasons. (Soil No. 12, with
a little more manure.)

Persoonias, about sixteen species of dwarf evergreen

256 OIIEEN-UOUSE— REPOTTING.

shrubs ; leaves oblong, or lanceolate, hairy or downy ;
flowers axillary and solitary ; the pots should be well
drained, and the plants in summer protected from the sun.
P. hirsiita, P. mollis, P. territifolia, and P. liicida, are
the most distinct, and grow freely. (Soil No. 6.)

Phormium tenax, New Zealand flax lily, the only spe-
cies ; foliage resembling an Iris, and very thready. In
New Zealand and Norfolk Island the natives manufacture
from this plant a kind of stuff like coarse linen, cordage,
&c. ; the plant is very hardy, and we would be nowise
surprised to see it stand the severity of our winters. It
bears exposure to the open air in Europe in the fifty-sixth
degree of north latitude. The flowers are said to be yel-
low and lily-like ; of the easiest culture. (Soil No. 7.)

Phylicas, above twenty-five species. Several of them
are very pretty growing evergreen shrubs, and of easy
culture. P. horizontdlis, P. squarrusa, P. imbricdta, P.
myrtifdlia, P. callosa, P. bicolor and P. ericoides, are all
neat growing ; flowers small white, in heads : drain the
pots well, and keep them in an airy situation. The foli-
age of several of the species is downy. (Soil No. 6.)

Phaseolus caracdlla, or snail-flower, is a very curious
blooming plant, with flowers of a greenish yellow, all spi-
rally twisted, in great profusion when the plant is well
grown. (Soil No. 12.)

Phcenix dactyl'ifera, common date palm ; a plant that at-
tains a large size, and of rather a rugged appearance ; its
fruit is the common well-known date. (Soil No. 12.)

Pimeleas, about fourteen species. Most of them are
highly esteemed, and are not often seen in our collections.
P. decussdta is the finest of the genus, both in foliage and
flowers, which are red, and in large terminal clusters; P.
hispida, P. rosea, P. linifolia, P. spicata, and P. spectablis,
are all fine species. The latter has very beautiful lanceo-
late foliage and of an elegant habit. They should be well
drained. They are very small evergreen shrubs, with
wihte, red, or pink flowers. (Soil No. G.)

Pistadas, seven species of trees, principally of the south
of Europe. There is nothing particular in their appear-
ance, except their productions in their native country. P.
tcrcbinthus is deciduous and produces the Cyprus turpen-
tine. P. Icntiscus is the true mastich tree, which is ob-

GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING. 257

tained by cutting transverse incisions in the bark. P.
vera and P. reticuldta are good species ; leaves pinnated ;
leaflets ovate, lanceolate ; easily cultivated. (Soil No. 2.)

Pittosporums, about nine species, with handsome foli-
age, and small white flowers in clusters, which are fra-
grant. P. toblra is a native of China, and nearly hardy ;
leaves lucid, obovate, obtuse and smooth; there is a beautiful
variegated variety of it. P. undulatum, P. coridceum, P.
revolutum, P.fulvum and P.ferrugineum, are very orna-
mental evergreens, and will grow with the most simple
treatment. (Soil No. 13.)

Platylobiums, Flat Pea, four species of fine free-flower-
ing plants ; flowers leguminose ; colour yellow. P. for-
mosum, P. ovdtum and P. trianguldre, are the best; the
foliage of the former two is cordate, ovate ; the latter has-
tate, with spiny angles. (Soil No. 6.)

Plumbagos, Lead-wort. There are only two species of
any consequence belonging to the green-house, P. tristis
and P. capensis. The former is a shy flowerer, but the
latter flowers freely ; colour beautiful light blue, and flow-
ers in spikes ; foliage oblong, entire, and a little glaucous ;
of very easy culture, and continues in bloom a considerable
time. (Soil No. 1.)

Podalyrias, about fourteen species of pretty Cape shrubs;
foliage oblong, obovate and silky-like ; the flowers legumi-
nose ; colour blue or pink. P. sericca, P. styracifolia, P.
coruscans, P. argentea, P. liparioides and P. subiflora,
are the finest and most distinct species, and flower abun-
dantly. (Soil No. 6.)

Proteas, about forty-four species. The foliage of this
genus is very diversified ; flowers very large, terminal ; sta-
mens protected by an involucrum , many -leaved and imbri-
cated ; which is very persistent. P. cynaroides has the
largest flower, which is purple, green and red. P. spe-
ciosa, P. umbondlis, once P. longifolia, P. melaleuca, P.
grandiflora, P. coccinea, P. cenocdrpa, P. pollens, P.for-
mosa, P. magnified, P. speciosa riibra, and P. melfifera,
will afford a very good variety. It is almost impossible to
describe their true colour, it being so various ; red, white,
straw, brown, green and purple, are most predominant, and
frequently to be seen in the same flower. The plants must
be well drained ; and during warm weather be careful that
22*

258 GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING. [March.

they are not neglected in water, for if they are suffered to
droop, they seldom recover. For this reason the pots ought
not to stand in the strong sun ; the plants can bear it, but
to the roots it is injurious. (Soil No. 9.-)

Pultenssas, about forty species, pretty little dwarf grow-
ing shrubs of New South Wales ; flowers small, legumi-
nose, all yellow, with a little red outside of the petals. P.
subumbetlcita, P. villosa, P. obcorddta, P. argentea, P.
plumosa, P.Jlexilis, shining leaved, fragrant ; P. Candida,
and P. stricta, are all fine species, and esteemed in collec-
tions. The leaves are all small; they require an airy ex-
posure, and the pots drained. (Soil No. 6.)

Rhodochiton voliibile, or Lophospermum rhodochlton :
this is a very fine climbing plant, with large tubular dark
brown flowers, blooming from July to October ; it is of
rapid growth, and is an excellent plant for the flower-gar-
den. The plant must have freque»t repottings to make it
grow rapidly, for the finer it grows the more profuse will it
flower. (Soil No. 12.)

Rhododendrons, (Rose tree,) a magnificent genus, and
contains some of the most superb and gigantic plants that
adorn the green-house. At present the most admired is
R. arboreum with its varieties. It has deep crimson flow-
ers, with dark spots and flakes campanulated, and in large
clusters ; leaves lanceolate, acute, rough and silvery be-
neath, ft. arboreum album is very rare. R. arboreum
superbum, flowers same shape as arboreum, colour bright
rosy scarlet; foliage one-third larger, but not silvery be-
neath; grows freely, and generally thought the finest
variety. R. arborea dlta-Clarence is also very. superb.
R. arborea Russelidnum, pictum, venustum, guttdtum,
tigrinum, noblednum, grandi/lorum, spcctdbile, are all
very distinct; but there are so many other varieties from
seed that they Avill soon be so much amalgamated, that the
named sorts will not be distinguished. A green-house
without some of the choice varieties of this plant, is defi-
cient of a flower whose beauty and grandeur are beyond the
highest imagination. It is a native of Nepaul, in India,
and, when found by Dr. Wallach, awakened the ambition
of every cultivator and connoisseur in Europe.* There

* Mr. Hogg, the eminent horticulturist of New York, raised the
first plant of arboreum from seed in England.

March.~\ GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. 259

are several other species lately brought from that country,
which are highly valued : the species are R. campanula-
turn, R. anthopogon and R. cinnamomum. They are
rarely seen in our collections, but a few years will make
them more plentiful. Their beauty of flower is beyond
description. The pots should be well drained, and if they
are large, put several pieces of sandy stone or potshreds
around the side, for the fine fibres delight to twine about
such, being mountainous plants. When growing, give
copious waterings at the root. For young plants soil No.
6. And for blooming plants use one portion of leaf
mould.

Roellas, pretty leafy shrubs, with blue terminal funnel-
shaped flowers, lip-spreading ; R. dlliuta, R. spicata and
R. pedunculata, are the finest of the genus. The pots
must be well drained, and care taken that they are not
over-watered. (Soil No. 6.)

Sdlvia (Sage) is an extensive genus of soft-wooded,
shrubby, or herbaceous plants ; very few of them do well
in the green-house, and many of them are very trifling,
having no other attraction than the flower ; and those of
the tender species, when compared with S.fulgens, crim-
son, S. splendens, scarlet, A', angustifolia, ^>ale blue, S.
patens, dark blue, S. involucrata, pink, (which in artificial
climates constitute the standard of the genus,) are not
worth cultivation. The best method to adopt with the
summer flowering kinds is, to plant them in the garden in
May: they will grow strong and flower abundantly, and in
the fall they can be lifted, and preserved during winter in
pots. They neither grow nor flower so well as when
planted out, and even a slip planted in the ground in moist
weather will root in a few days, grow, and flower in a few
weeks. S. splendens is the best to select for the purpose.
All will grow easily with encouragement. (Soil No. 12.)

Scottias, three species of valuable plants ; S. dentata,
with rosy leguminose blossoms; leaves opposite, ovate,
acuminate, serrate ; S. angustifolia has brown flowers ;
S. trapeziformus, leaves ovate, acute, serrulate. We do
not know the colour of its flowers ; the pots must be well
drained, and the plants kept in the warmest part of the
green-house, and near the light. (Soil No. 6.)

Senecios. Some species of this genus are pestiferous
weeds all over the world. They are even found near the

260 GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING. [March.

limits of perpetual snow, where neither tree nor shrub is
able to rear its head, and yet there are a few species that
are neat little plants, and are worthy of a situation, namely
— S. grandiflorus, S. venustus, and S. dnerdscens, with
the double white, purple, and red variety of S. elegans.
The last three varieties are free flowering, but if allowed to
grow several years, they become unsightly. Being very
easily propagated, a few cuttings of them should be put "in,
in September, and in two weeks they will strike root, when
they may be put in pots to keep through the winter, and
then planted in the garden, continuing to renew them.
The other mentioned species should be frequently done
the same way. Do not keep them damp during winter,
or they will rot off. Give them an airy exposure. (Soil
No. 12.)

Sollya helerophylla : a good climbing plant with bright
blue clusters of drooping flowers ; it is a native of N. Hol-
land, and will prove a hardy plant south of latitude 36°.
(Soil No. 4.)

Sparrmdnnias are strong-growing green-house shrubs.
S. africdna is a plant very common in our collections,
with large three-lobed cordate leaves, hairs on both sides ;
flowers from March to July. S. rugosa. The leaves are
rugged ; flowers of both are white, in a kind of corymb,
supported by a long footstalk ; buds drooping, flowers
erect. There is a plant known in our collections as the
free-flowering Sparrmdnnia, (which is Entelia arbores-
cens,) and is easily distinguished from Sparrmdnnia by
the leaves being cordate, acuminate, and otherwise, by all
its filaments being fertile, and the flowers more branching,
and blooming from November to June, profusely; very
easily cultivated, and desirable. (Soil No. 12.)

Sphserolobiums, only two species of leafless plants, with
yellow and red leguminose flowers, which proceed from
the young shoots. S. vimineum and S. medium. They
flower freely, and are easily cultivated. The old wood
should be frequently cut out where it is practicable.
Drain the pots. (Soil No. 6.)

Sprengelia incarnata, the only species, a very pretty
plant, allied to JEpdcris ; foliage acuminate, embracing the
stem; flowers small pink, bearded,^ and in close spikes;
grows freely. The pots must be well drained, and the

March.'] GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. 361

plants, when dormant, watered sparingly; for if they get
sodden about the roots, they very seldom recover. (Soil
No. 6.)

Strelitzia, or queen plant : a genus of fine plants belong-
ing to the natural order of Musacea. S. regina, S. ovdta,
and S. humilis, are the most free and beautiful flowering
species, and are very similar, except in habit. The flower
stalk is from one to two feet long, producing about five
flowers of a bright yellow, having a large blue stigma,
which forms a distinct contrast. S. juncea and S. parvi-
Jlora are also desirable species, but are more rare than the
former, which ought to be in every green-house. (Soil
No. 19.)

Streptocarpus rhexii, a free-blooming dwarf plant, of
easy culture in soil No. 4.

Stylidium, six species of pretty little plants, with small
linear leaves, and remarkable for the singular elasticity of
the style or column, which, when the flower is newly ex-
panded, lays to one side, and, on being touched with a pin,
starts with violence to the opposite side. S. graminifo-
lium, S. fruticosum, S. lancifolivm, and S. adnatum,
are all free-flowering ; flowers in spikes, very small ; colour
light and dark pink ; blooms from April to July. S. adna-
tum is half herbaceous, and should, when growing, be kept
nigh the glass, or it will be drawn, and the flowers become
of a pale colour. They are all of easy cultivation. (Soil
No. 10.)

Styphelias, seven species of very showy flowers, with
mucronate leaves ; corolla in long tubular form, having
several bundles of hairs in it; segments reflex and bearded.
S. tubiflora, crimson, S. triftora, crimson and green, S.
adscendens, and S. longiflora, are beautiful species. They
grow freely, and should be well drained, as too much water
is very hurtful to them. In summer they ought not to be
much exposed to the hot sun, or the foliage will become
brown. (Soil No. 6.)

Sutherlandia frutescens, very similar to Swainsbnia;
flowers fine scarlet. (Soil No. 2.)

Swainsonias, four species of free-flowering, soft-wooded
shrubs, natives of New South Wales. S. galegifolia, S.
coronillsejolia, and S. astragalifolia, are red, purple, and
white ; leguminose flowers in spikes from the axils, are of

262 GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING. [March.

easy culture, and deserving of a situation ; the foliage is
pinnate ; leaflets ovate, acute. (Soil No. 2.)

Tecoma is a genus of beautiful flowering plants, sepa-
rated from Bignonia. They are of easy culture and desira-
ble in all collections. T. capensis has bright orange flowers
in large clusters, and very profuse on large plants. T.
australis, known as Bignonia pandora, has white and
pink flowers in great profusion. T. jasminoides is quite
a new plant, producing very large clusters of white flowers
with a bright pink centre ; it is a charming plant for climb-
ing, and the foliage is of a very agreeable shining green.
The plants require encouragement. (Soil No. 10.)

Telopea spetiosissimus is the only species, and was
once called Embothrium spetiosissimus. It is now called
Telopea, in allusion to the brilliant crimson flowers, Avhich,
from their large size, are seen at a great distance, and
which render it one of the most conspicuous productions
of New South Wales. The leaves are oblong, deeply
toothed, veiny, and smooth; wood strong; flower ovate,
connate, and terminal, and of considerable duration. There
ought to be a specimen of it in every collection. The pots
must be well drained, and the plant in the extreme heat of
summer not too much exposed to the sun. Very scarce.
(Soil No. 19.)

Testudinaria, Elephant's foot, or Hottentot's bread, two
species, remarkable for their appearance. The root or
bulb, if it may be so called, is of a conical shape, and
divided into transverse sections. Those of one foot dia-
meter are computed to be one hundred and fifty years of
age. It is a climbing herbaceous plant, with entire reni-
form leaves of no beauty ; flowers small ; colour green.
The pots must be well drained, for when the plant is inac-
tive, it is in danger of suffering from moisture, and ought
not to get any water. T. elephdntipes and T. montana
are the species, natives of the Cape of Good Hope, and
require the warmest part of the house. (Soil No. 10.)

Thea : a genus celebrated over the known world as fur-
nishing the domestic drug called Tea. T. viridis, and T.
bohea are said to be the species which supply the tea.
Some have asserted that there is only one shrub used, but
by examination it may be easily perceived that there are
leaves of various shape and texture, some of them similar

March.] GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. 263

to Camellia sesanqua. Dr. Abel gives an explicit detail
of the growing and manufacturing process of tea, from
which, in compliment to our fair patrons, we give a few
extracts :

"The tea districts of China extend from the twenty-
seventh to the thirty-first degree of north latitude. It
seems to succeed best on the sides of mountains. The
soils from which I collected the best specimens consisted
chiefly of sand-stone, schistus, or granite, The plants are
raised from seeds sown where they are to remain. Three
or more are dropped into a hole four or five inches deep ;
these come up without farther trouble, and require little
culture, except that of removing weeds, till the plants are
three years old. The more careful stir the soil, and some
manure it, but the latter practice is seldom adopted. The
third year the leaves are gathered, at three successive
gatherings, in February, April, and June, and so on until
the bushes become stunted or slow in their growth, which
generally happens in from six to ten years. They are
then cut in to encourage the production of fresh roots.

" The gathering of the leaves is performed with care and
selection. The leaves are plucked off one by one : at the
first gathering only the unexpanded and tender are taken ;
at the second those that are full growth ; and at the third
the coarsest. The first forms what is called in Europe
imperial tea ; but, as to the other names by which tea is
known, the Chinese know nothing ; and the compounds
and names are supposed to be made and given by the mer-
chants at Canton, who, from the great number of varieties
brought to them, have an ample opportunity of doing so.
Formerly it was thought that green tea was gathered ex-
clusively from T. viridis; but that now is doubtful, though
it is certain that there is what is called the green tea dis-
trict and black tea district ; and the varieties grown in the
one district differ from those of the other. I was told by
competent persons that either of the two plants will afford
the black or green tea of the shops, but that the broad thin
leaved plant (T. viridis) is preferred for making the green
tea.

"The tea leaves being gathered, are cured in houses
which contain from five to twenty small furnaces, about
three feet high each, having at top a large flat iron pan.
There is also a long low table covered with mats, on which

GREEN-HOUSE— REPOTTING. [March.

the leaves are laid, and rolled by workmen, who sit round
it : the iron pan being heated to a certain degree, by a little
fire made in the furnace underneath, a few pounds of the
fresh-gathered leaves are put upon the pan ; the fresh and
juicy leaves crack when they touch the pan, and it is the
business of the operator to shift them as quickly as possible,
with his bare hands, till they cannot be easily endured.
At this instant he takes off the leaves with a kind of shovel
resembling a fan, and pours them on the mats before the
rollers, who, taking small quantities at a time, roll them in
the palm of their hands in one direction, while others are
fanning them, that they may cool the more speedily, and
retain their curl the longer. This process is repeated two
or three times, or oftener, before the tea is put into the
stores, in order that all the moisture of the leaves may be
thoroughly dissipated, and their curl more completely pre-
served. On every repetition the pan is less heated, and
the operation performed more closely and cautiously. The
tea is then separated into the different kinds, and deposited
in the store for domestic use or exportation.

" The different sorts of black and green arise not merely
from soil, situation, or the age of the leaf; but after win-
nowing the tea, the leaves are taken up in succession as
they fall; those nearest the machine, being the heaviest,
are^the gunpowder tea; the light dust the worst, being
chiefly used by the lower classes. That which is brought
down to Canton then undergoes a second roasting, win-
nowing, packing, &c., and many hundred women are
employed for these purposes." Kaempfer asserts that a
species of Camellia as well as Olea Fragrans is used to
give it a high flavour.

Tacsbnia pinnatistipula, a plant much resembling a
Passiflora, both in flower and habits. When planted into
the ground, and trained up the rafters of the green-house,
it makes a pretty appearance with its profusion of rosy
blush -coloured flowers. (Soil No. 13.)

Tropseolum, a genus of generally delicate growing
plants, principally from South America. They require
nicety of treatment to bloom them well, unless a large bulb
can be procured, when it may be planted in a seven-inch
pot, and will then flower without farther care by training
their delicate shoots on a wire trellis, or small twigs of

March.'] GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. 265

branches stuck in the pots. T. tricoloriim, T. tricoloriim
superbum, and T. pentaphyllum, have beautiful scarlet
flowers marked with yellow and black, and are superb and
lovely when in bloom. T. brachyseras and T. luberosum
have yellow flowers ; the roots of the latter are considered
a good vegetable. (Soil No. 10.)

Verbena. The beauty of the green-house in spring,
and the flower-garden in summer, is greatly augmented
by the late introduction of this lovely family of perpetual
flowering plants. There are among them every shade of
colour, from the richest scarlet to the purest white, and,
in addition to the beauty and profusion of their flowers,
several of them are exquisitely scented. V. chamsedry-
folia, or melindres, was the first scarlet species introduced,
and it is yet pretty. V. bicolor grandiflora, scarlet, crim-
son eye. V. blue jay, fine blue ; V. elegans, rose ; V.
Feasiii, large white lading to lilac; V. Julia, beautiful
large rose; V. Mestonii, bright scarlet; V. queen, pure
white; V. gazelle, very dark purple crimson; V. perfec-
tion, purple ; V. Wilsonii, bluish purple ; V. Vesta, beau-
tiful pink ; V. Yarnellii, very dark crimson.

These are principally new varieties of perfect formation,
the flowers in many are as large as a dime, far outvieing
those cultivated a few years ago. It is only seven years
since I grew the first white, pink and crimson verbena,
from seed received from Buenos Ayres. They created a very
great excitement in the Floral world, both in this country
and Europe. Now there are thousands produced from
seed annually. In England, they bear the titled name of
Ladies, Marquesses and dueens, commanding a very high
price ; but with all their titles, none of them excel a few of
those named above. They require very little water during
winter, and should be kept on' a dry airy "shelf till February,
when the pots may be enlarged, except those intended for
the garden, which can be planted out about the middle of
April. Cuttings of the young shoots, placed in sandy soil
and covered with a glass, will root in a few weeks. The
whole family should be industriously collected and culti-
vated ; for truly we are not acquainted with a tribe of plants
that will give as much satisfaction with as little cost and
trouble : they naturally grow on hills and elevated plains,
so that they must not be kept wet. (Soil No. ().)

266 GREEN-HOUSE — REPOTTING. [March.

Veronica, an extensive genus of plants that are cultivated
largely as ornaments for the Flower Garden. Within these
few years some very beautiful species have been discovered
in New Zealand. Among them is V. speciosa, a picture
of a plant with foliage equal to a Camellia, producing spikes
about three inches long, of bright purple flowers, fading to
a pale blush. It is of the simplest culture — growing freely
and symmetrically in soil No. 9.

Fiminaria denuddta, the only species. This plant is
remarkable for its twiggy appearance, but it has no foliage,
except when growing from seed. It has at the extremity
of the twigs or shoots an ovate, lanceolate leaf, disappear-
ing when the plant grows old ; the flowers are small,
yellow, coming out of the young shoots, to the astonish-
ment of the beholder. It grows freely. (Soil No. 6.)

Viburnums. A few of these are very ornamental ever-
green shrubs, and almost hardy. V. tinus is the well-
known Laurestine, (or what is commonly called Laures-
tinus,) is of the easiest culture ; flowers small white, and in
large flattened panicles ; blooming from February to May,
and universally esteemed. It will stand the winter by a
little protection, but the flower buds being formed in the
fall, the intense frost destroys them ; consequently, it will
not flower finely, except it be protected from severe frost.
V. liicidum is a good species, and superior in flower and
foliage to the former, but does not flower so freely when
the plants are small. When they grow large, they flower
profusely. There is a desirable variegated variety. V.
odoratissimum has smooth, evergreen, oblong, elliptic,
distinctly toothed leaves, and frequently a stripe in them,
is sweet-scented, but not a free flowerer. V. hirsiitum has
flowers similar to the above ; foliage ovate, with rough
brown hairs on both sides, and very characteristic. V.
strictum variegdtum is a very fine variety, and upright
growing. These plants are all very desirable, blooming
early in spring, and continuing for several months ; all
easily cultivated. (Soil No. 17.)

Westringias, a genus of four species, very like the
common Rosemary. W. rosmariniformis, leaves lanceo-
late, and silvery beneath ; W. longifolia is similar ; both
have small silvery white flowers, and are easily cultivated.
(Soil No. 2.)

March."] GREEN-HOUSE— REPOTTING. 267

Witsenias, four species. W. corymbosa is a plant that
has stood in high estimation ever since it was known, but,
unfortunately, there is a very inferior plant. Jlristea cyanea
got into our collections under that name. The panicles of
W. corymbosa are quite smooth ; those of Jlristea are hairy,
which is itself sufficient to detect them ; but otherwise the
appearance of W. corymbosa is much stronger and more
erect growing, not inclining to push at the roots so much
as Aristza. The foliage is lanceolate and amplexicaule,
the leaves having much the nature and appearance of Iris,
The plant is of easy culture, and blooms from July to
November; colour fine blue. W. ramosa is a very fine
species, similar to the above ; flowers yellow and blue ;
plant branching. (Soil No. 8.)

Yucca aloefolia and its beautiful variety variegdta are
desirable plants. They do not bloom till they have grown
to considerable size ; but still they make a decided contrast
among other plants ; the flowers are white and produced
on terminal spikes. (Soil No. 11.)

Zdmias, about twenty species, eight of which belong to
this compartment. The foliage is greatly admired, and is
in large fronds, with oblique, lanceolate leaflets. Several
of them glaucous. They bear heads of flowers of a brown
colour in the centre of the plants, very like large pine cones.
Z. horrida, the finest, Z. pungens, Z. spiralis, and Z. lati-
folia, are the most conspicuous. They must be kept in
the warmest part of the green-house ; and give them large
well-drained pots, watering sparingly during winter. They
are imported from the Cape of Good Hope. (Soil No. 11.)
All the plants herein named requiring to be drained, in
preparing the pots, place first a piece of broken pot, oyster-
shell, or any similar substitute, with the convex side on the
hole of the pot, and then put in a few, or a handful, (accord-
ing to the size of the pot,) of shivers of broken pots, or
round gravel about the size of garden beans. Those that
we have mentioned in this Repotting, as to be done in this
or beginning of next month, is not intended to apply to
plants in general, large and small, but to those that are
young, and require encouragement, or to those that were
not shifted last autumn. The roots must not be disturbed,
but the ball turned out entire ; and put as much earth as
will raise the ball within about half an inch of the rim of

268 GREEN-HOUSE OF ENARCHING, &C. [March.

the pot. Press the earth down around it with a thin nar-
row piece of wood, called a potting stick, frequently shak-
ing it that no vacancy may be left. If the roots are rotten,
or otherwise injured, take all such off. If this be the case,
the plant will be sickly. Give it a new pot of a smaller
size, administering water moderately until there are visible
signs of fresh growth. The plants must not be disturbed
while flowering ; let the repotting be done afterward.
Plants are, at certain stages, if in good health, in a state
that no one can err in shifting them when desirous to
hasten their growth. Those plants that make two or more
growths during the summer may be repotted in the interim
of any of these growths, and all others just before they
begin to push in the spring; that is, when the wood buds
are perceptibly swelled. Never saturate with water fresh-
potted plants. There are many kinds that, without injury,
can be repotted when growing. When done potting, tie
all up neatly with stakes rather higher than the plant, that
the new shoots may be tied thereto during the summer, to
prevent them from being destroyed by the wind. There
may be many that do not require repotting, but would be
benefited by a top-dressing. This should be done by
probing off all the surface earth down to the roots, replac-
ing it with fresh compost, suitable to the nature of the
plant.

When the above is done, arrange all the plants in proper
order, and syringe them clean; but if there are any of the
green-fly, they must be fumigated previous to syringing.
The pavement of the house should be cleanly and neatly
swept every day, and washed at least once a week. Thus,
every part of the house will be in order before the hurry
of the garden commences.

OF ENARCHING OR GRAFTING BY APPROACH.

In this method of grafting the scion is not separated from
the parent plant until it is firmly united with the stock ;
consequently, they must stand contiguously. We intend
the following method to apply directly to Camellias, as
they are the principal plants in the green-house that are
thus worked. The criterion for the operation is about the

March.'] GREEN-HOUSE— OF ENARCHING, &c. 269

first of March or June. Place the stock contiguous to the
plant where the graft or enarch is to be taken from. If
the branches, where the intended union is to take place,
do not grow at equal heights, a slight stage may be erected
to elevate the lower pot. Take the branch that is to be
enarched, (the wood of last year is the most proper,) and
bring it in contact with the stock ; mark the parts where
they are to unite, so as to form a pointed arch. In that
part of the branch which is to rest against the stock, pare
off' the bark and part of the wood to about two or three
inches in length, and in the side of the stock which is to
receive the graft do the same, that the inside rind of each
may be exactly opposite, which is the first part where a
union will take place. Bind them firmly and neatly to-
gether with strands of Russia matting, and protect the joint
from the air by a coat of close composition ; clay of the con-
sistency of thick paint, turpentine, or wax, will equally
answer. Finish by fastening the grafted branch to the
head of the stock or a rod. Many practitioners make a
slit or tongue into the enarch and stock, but we find it
unnecessary, more tedious, and likewise more danger in
breaking. Camellias are also grafted and budded, but
these two operations require great experience and con-
tinued attention, and seldom prove so successful as enarch-
ing. When they have perfectly taken, which will be in
from three to four months, begin to separate them by cut-
ting the scion a little at three different periods, about a
week apart, separating it at the third time. If the head is
intended to be taken off the stock, do it in like manner.
By the above method, many kinds can be grown on the
same stock. The same plan applies to all evergreens.

23*

270 GREEN-HOUSE WATERING.

APRIL.

REGARDING the shifting or repotting of plants, the direc-
tions given last month may be followed. If the plants that
require it are not shifted, get them done as soon as possi-
ble. Those that were repotted last month will have taken
fresh root in the new soil, and the advantage will soon be
perceptible. In order to strengthen the plants, and keep
them from becoming drawn and spindly, admit large por-
tions of air every mild day. Indeed there will be very
few days in this month that a little air may not be given,
always observing to divide the quantity regularly over the
house, in cool nights closing in time. About the end of
the month an abundance of air is indispensable, leaving
the sashes and doors open every mild night, that the plants
may be inured to the open exposure they will have in a
few weeks.

WATERING.

As the season advances and vegetation increases, the
waterings will require to be more copious and more fre-
quent. Look over all plants minutely every day, and with
judicious care supply their wants. Those that are of a
soft shrubby nature, and in a free-growing state, will
require a larger portion at one time than those of a hard
texture, which may only want it every two or three days.
The weather and situation, in some instances, may require
a modification of these directions. Plants in general will
not suffer so soon from being a little dry as from being over-
watered. The health and beauty of the foliage of the
plants may be much improved by syringing them freely
three evenings in the week, except in moist weather, when
it ought not to be done. The ravages of many insects also
will be retarded, especially mildew and red spider, which
will be entirely destroyed. If the red spider is on any of
the plants particularly, take them aside evening and morn-
ing, and give them a good dashing with water through the
syringe. Where there is mildew, after syringing the plant,

J}pril.~\ GREEN-HOUSE — ORANGES, &C. 271

dust it on the affected parts with flower of sulphur, and set
them for a few days where they will be sheltered from the
wind, after which wash off the sulphur. If the cure is not
complete, renew the dose. Always sweep out and dry up
the water in the house when any is spilt. The succulent
plants will be in want of a little water about once a week,
but do not over-water them, as there is not heat enough to
absorb much moisture. If the soil is damp, it is quite suf-
ficient, o •&>-• I

ORANGES, LEMONS, &c.,

Will, in many instances, about the end of this month, be
showing flowers or flower buds. They must, under these
circumstances, have plenty of air to prevent them from
falling off when entirely exposed. The reason that we see
so much fine blossom falling to the ground where the trees
are brought out of the house in May, is from the confine-
ment they have had. Where there is a convenience of
giving air from the back of the green-house, it should
always be given in mild days, especially in those houses
that have a recess back from the top of the sashes, for even
if the sashes are let down every day, still the house will
not be properly ventilated. Any plants that are sickly and
intended to be planted in the garden next month to reno-
vate their growth, may be cut back (if not already done)
as far as is required to give the tree a handsome form, tak-
ing care not to cut below the graft or inoculation. Let the
operation be done with a fine saw and sharp knife, smooth-
ing the amputations that are made by the saw ; and if they
are large, put a little well-made clay over the wound, to
prevent the air from injuring it. Bees'-wax and turpen-
tine are preferable to clay, not being subject to crack or fall
off by the weather.

If there are any Lager strcemias, Pomegranate or Hy-
drangeas in the cellar, they should be brought out about
the first of the month, and planted in their respective situa-
tions. Give the Hydrangea a very shady spot. It does
not require much sun, provided it has plenty of air, and
do not plant it into soil that has been lately manured. A
large plant must have great supplies of water in dry wea-

272 GREEN-HOUSE— GERANIUMS.

ther. If the plant is very thick, the oldest branches may be
thinned out, but do not cut out any of the young shoots, as
they contain the embryo of the flower. Lagcrstroemias
will flower abundantly without pruning, but, to have fine
large spikes of flowers, cut in the wood of last year to
about three eyes from the wood of the preceding year : by
this they will be much finer. Pomegranates will only re-
quire a little of the superfluous wood cut out. Perhaps
some of them may be desired to flower in pot or tubs dur-
ing summer : the balls will admit of being much reduced,
and by this a pot or tub very little larger will do for them.
Do not give much water until they begin to grow.

MYRTLES AND OLEANDERS.

If any of these have grown irregularly, and are not head-
ed down or otherwise pruned, as directed last month, it
should now be done. Oleanders are very subject to the
white scaly insect, and, before the heat of summer begins,
they should be completely cleansed. This insect is like-
wise found on Myrtles, which are worse to clean, and ought
to be minutely examined twice every year. We have ob-
served the red spider on these shrubs, which makes the
foliage brown and unsightly. If it is detected in time,
syringing is an effectual remedy.

GERANIUMS.

These will now begin to flower, and the sun will greatly
deteriorate their rich colours where they are near the glass
with a southern aspect. The glass should be white-washed,
or covered with thin muslin, which will cast a light shade
over them, and prolong the duration of the bloom; but if they
are above five feet from the glass, shading is not requisite.
The strong kinds will be growing very luxuriantly, and
require liberal supplies of water. When syringing, do
not sprinkle the flowers, as it would make the colours in-
termingle with each other, and cause them to decay pre-
maturely. If they have been properly attended to in that

GREEN-HOUSE FLOWERING PLANTS. 273

respect, it may be dispensed with after they have come in
flower.

Cape Bulbs. Those that flowered late in autumn, as
soon as the foliage begins to decay, may be set aside, and
the water withheld by degrees. When the foliage is en-
tirely gone, and the roots dry, clear them from the earth,
and after laying exposed in the shade for a few days to dry,
pack them up in dry moss, with their respective names
attached, until August, when they may be again potted.
Treat those that are in floAver the same as directed in last
month.

Dutch Roots. All the species and varieties of these that
have been kept in the green-house during the winter, will
now be done flowering ; the water should be withdrawn
gradually from them; and then the pots turned on their
sides to ripen the bulbs. Or, a superior method is, where
there is the convenience of a garden, to select a bed not
much exposed. Turn the balls out of the pots and plant
them ; the roots will ripen better this way than any other.
Have them correctly marked, that no error may take place.
They can be lifted with the other garden bulbs.

FLOWERING PLANTS.

The best situation for most plants while in flower is,
where they are shaded from the sun and fully exposed to
the air. Primroses, both European and Chinese, flower
best, and the colours are finest, when the plants are in the
front of the house, and entirely shaded. The Chinese
Azaleas and Rhododendrons require, while in flower, a
similar situation. Have all the shoots tied naturally to neat
rods, and keep them clear from others by elevating them
on empty pots, or any other substitute. See that there are
no insects upon them ; for they make a miserable contrast
with flowers. The Cdlla sethiopica should stand in water
when in bloom, and even before flowering they will be
much strengthened by it.

274 GREEN-HOUSE FLOWERING STOCKS. [April.

INSECTS.

Insects will, on some plants, be very perplexing. The
weather may admit of those that are infected to be taken out
of doors, and put into a frame in any way that is most con-
venient. Fumigating them about fifteen minutes, if the
day is calm, will be sufficient ; but if windy, they will take
half an hour. When done, syringe them well, and put
them in their respective situations. By the above method,
the house will not be made disagreeable with the fumes of
tobacco.

Tie up neatly all the climbing plants. Keep those that
are running up the rafters of the house close to the longi-
tudinal wires. As previously observed, running plants
should not be taken across the house, except in some in-
stances where it can be done over the pathway, otherwise
it shades the house too much. Clear off all decayed leaves
and all contracted foulness, that the house and plants may
in this month have an enlivening aspect, as it is undoubt-
edly one of the most interesting seasons of the year in the
green-house.

FLOWERING STOCKS.

Those that have been kept in the green-house, or in
frames, should be planted into beds or the borders, where
they will seed better than if kept in the pots. The method
generally adopted is, to select the plants that are intended
for seed ; plant the different kinds distinctly and separately ;
then take a few double flowering plants of each kind, which
plant round their respective single varieties that are to be
kept for seed. Whenever any of the colours sport, that is,
become spotted or striped with other colours, plant such by
themselves, for they will soon degenerate the whole, and
ought never to be seen in collections that have any preten-
sions to purity. Many have been the plans recommended
as the best for saving and growing from seed the double
varieties of German stock. In every method we have
tried we have been successful and unsuccessful ; although
we generally practise planting the Double kinds beside the

M(ty.~] GREEN-HOUSE — WATERING, &C. 275

single, where they are intended for seed. We have no
scientific reason for it; not seeing what influence these
monsters of flowers can have over a flower where the male
and female organs are perfect ; which in these are wanting.
Some say that the semi-double sorts are best : we have like-
wise found them both abortive and fruitful in the desired
results.

MAY.

ABOUT the first of the month all the small half hardy
plants may be taken out of the green-house, and those
that are left will be more benefited by a freer circulation of
air, which will inure them to exposure. The Geraniums
ought to stand perfectly clear of other plants, while in
flower and growing, or they will be much drawn and
spindly.

WATERING.

We have advanced so much on this subject, another
observation is not necessary; except as to succulents, which
are frequently over-watered about this period. Before they
begin to grow, once a week is sufficient.

OF BRINGING OUT THE GREEN-HOUSE PLANTS.

Those trees or plants of Orange, Lemon, Myrtle, Nerium,
&c., that were headed down with the intention of planting
them into the garden, to renovate their growth, should be
brought out and planted in the situations intended for them.
A good light rich soil will do for either, and the balls of
earth might be a little reduced, that, when they are lifted,
they might go into the same pot or tub, or perhaps a less
one. This being done, the plants, generally in a calm day
from the 12th to the 18th of the month, should be taken out,

276 GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING PLANTS. [May.

carrying them directly to a situation partially shaded from
the sun, and protected from the wind. In regard to a
situation best adapted for them during summer, see hot-
house this month, which will equally apply to green-house
plants. All Primroses and Polyanthus delight in shade.
The reason of so many plants of the J). odora* dying, is
from the effects of the sun and water. We keep them
always in the green-house.

The large trees may be fancifully set either in a spot for
the purpose, or through the garden. Put bricks or pieces
of wood under the tubs to prevent them from rotting, and
strew a little litter of any description over the surface of the
soil to prevent evaporation, or about one inch of well de-
cayed manure, which will, from the waterings, help to
enrich the soil. A liberal supply of water twice or three
times a week is sufficient. A large tree will take at one
time from two to four gallons. We make this observation,
for many trees evidently have too limited a supply. Con-
tinue to syringe the plants through the dry season every
evening, or at least three times per week. All the tall
plants must be tied to some firm support, because the
squalls of wind frequently overturn them, and do much
harm by breaking, &c. Keep those that are in flower as
much in shade as will preserve them from the direct influ-
ence of the sun.

REPOTTING PLANTS.

After the following-mentioned plants, or any assimilated
to them, are brought out of the house, and before they are
put in their respective stations, repot them where they are
required to grow well. Jlloes. These plants, so varied in

* On examining these plants, when the first appearance of decay
affected them, the decayed part was without exception at the sur-
face of the soil, which was completely mortified, while the top and
roots were apparently fresh. This led us to conclude that the
cause was the effect of sun and water on the stem. We have since
kept the earth in a conical form round the stem, thereby throwing
the water to the sides of the pot, and kept them in the shade. Pre-
viously to doing this, great numbers perished every year, and now
no plants thus treated die with us.

May.'} GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING PLANTS. 277

character, have been divided into several genera. These
are, Gasteria, Pachidendron, Riphidodendron, Howar-
thia, and Jlpicra : of these there are about two hundred
species and varieties; to enter into any specific detail
would be beyond our limits, especially with a tribe of
plants that as yet have but a few patrons. (Soil No. 10.)

Chamxrops. There are about seven species of these
palms : four of them belong to this department, and are the
finest of those that will keep in the green-house. They all
have large palmated fronds, and require large pots or tubs
to make them grow freely, and are tenacious of life if kept
from frost.

Gardenia. This is an esteemed genus of plants, espe-
cially for the double flowering varieties, which are highly
odoriferous, and have an evergreen shining foliage. G.
flbrida flore plena, Cape Jasmine, is a plant universally
known in our collections, and trees of it are frequently seen
above seven feet high, and five feet in diameter, blooming
from June to October. G. rddicans, dwarf Cape Jasmine,
G. longifolia, G. multiflbra, and G. latifolia, are also in
several collections, but not so generally known ; the flowers
are double, and all equally fragrant. We are inclined to
think they are only varieties of G.florida, of which multi-
flora is one of the finest. Any of the above will keep in
the coldest part of the green-house, and even under the
front of the stage is a good situation for them, where the
house is otherwise crowded during winter. They must
be sparingly watered from November to March. Much
water, while they are dormant, gives the foliage a sickly
tinge, a state in whjch they are too frequently seen. G.
rothmannia and G. Thunbergia are fine plants, but
seldom flower ; the flowers of the former are spotted, and
are most fragrant during night. (Soil No. 10.)

Mesembryanthemum, a very extensive genus, contain-
ing upward of four hundred and fifty species and varieties,
with few exceptions, natives of the Cape of Good Hope.
They are all singular, many of them beautiful, and some
splendid ; yet they have never been popular plants in our
collections. The leaves are almost of every shape and
form ; their habits vary in appearance. Some of them are
straggling, others are insignificant, and a few grotesque
When they are well grown, they flower in great profusion ;
24

278 GREEN-HOUSE CAPE BTTLBS. {May.

the colours are brilliant and of every shade ; yellow and
white are most prevalent. Each species continues a con-
siderable time in flower. The flowers are either solitary,
axillary, extra-axillary, but most frequently terminal ; leaves
mostly opposite, thick, or succulent, and of various forms.
They are sometimes kept in the hot-house, but undoubt-
edly the green-house is the best situation for them. They
must not get water above twice a month during winter, but
while they are in flower, and through the summer, they
require a more liberal supply, and they seldom need to be
repotted ; once a year is sufficient. (Soil No. 18.)

CAMELLIAS.

These plants, when they are brought from the green-
house, (which should be about the end of June,) ought to
be set in a situation by themselves, that they may be the
more strictly attended to in watering and syringing. An
airy situation, where the sun has little effect upon them, is
the best. They should be syringed every evening when
there has been no rain through the day. After heavy
rains examine the pots, and where water is found, turn the
plant on its side for a few hours to let the water pass off,
and then examine the draining in the bottom of the pots,
which must be defective.

CAPE BULBS.

As soon as these are done flowering, and the foliage
begins to decay, cease watering, and turn the pots on their
sides, until the soil is perfectly dry; then take out the
bulbs, and preserve them dry until the time of planting,
which will be about the end of August or first of Sep-
tember.

June and July.~] GREEN-HOUSE — OBSERVATIONS. 279

JUNE AND JULY.

THE plants being out of the house, there need be little,
added under this head. Their treatment is in the general,
and the required attention is in giving water according to
their different constitutions and habits. Where there is
no rain nor river water, it should stand at least one day in
butts or cisterns, to take the chilly air from it, and become
softened by the surrounding atmosphere. This is more
essential to the health of the plants than is generally sup-
posed. The small plants in dry weather will need water
evening and morning. Continue regular syringings as
directed last month. There are frequently rains continuing
for several days, which will materially injure many plants
if they are not turned on their sides, or defended by sash
or shutters, until the rain is over, especially small plants.
The syringings should never be done till after the water-
ings at the roots, and they should never be more seldom
than every alternate evening. Turn all the plants fre-
quently, to prevent them from being drawn to one side by
the sun or light. Carefully look over them at these turn-
ings, to detect any insects ; and observe that the tuberose-
rooted or deciduous geraniums, such as Jlrdens, Hicolor,
Comptonia, Echinatum, Tristum, &c., are not getting too
much water, they being now dormant.

280 GREEN-HOUSE GERANIUMS.

AUGUST.

ANY of the Myrtles, Oranges, Lemons, Oleanders, &c.,
that were headed down in April or May, will be pushing
many young shoots. The plant must be carefully exa-
mined, to observe which of the shoots ought to be left to
form the tree. Having determined on this, cut out all the
others close to the stem with a small sharp knife ; and if
the remaining shoots are above one foot long, pinch off the
tops to make them branch out.

The trees that were entirely headed down should not
have above six shoots left, which will, by being topped,
make a sufficient quantity to form the bush or tree.

GERANIUMS.

These plants, about the first of the month, require a
complete dressing. In the first place collect them all to-
gether, and, with a sharp knife, cut off the wood of this
year to within a few eyes of the wood of last year. Citri-
odorum and its varieties do not need pruning. The plants
grown from cuttings during the season, that have flowered,
cut them to about three inches from the pot. This being
done, have the earth all prepared, and potsherds or fine
gravel at hand, for draining the delicate kinds. Choose a
cloudy day for the operation, and turn the plants progres-
sively out of the pots they are in, reducing the baSs of
earth so that the same pots may contain them again, and
allow from half an inch to two inches, according to the size
of the pot, of fresh soil around the ball, carefully pressing
it with the potting-stick. Finish by leveling all neatly
with the hand. Give very gentle waterings from a pot
with a rose mouth, for a few weeks, until they have begun
to grow. The tuberous-rooted and deciduous species must
be very moderately supplied. Be careful, Avhen watering,
that the new soil does not become saturated with water,
for, though allowed to dry again, it will not be so pure.
When they grow afresh, expose them fully to the sun, turn

GREEN-HOUSE ORANGES, &C. 281

them regularly every two weeks, to prevent them growing
to one side.

ORANGES, LEMONS, &c.

As it is frequently very inconvenient to shift these trees
into larger tubs in the months of March and April, this
month is a period that is suitable, both from the growth of
the trees and their being in the open air. It would be
improper to state the day or the week, that depending
entirely on the season. The criterion is easily observed,
which is when the first growth is over, these trees making
another growth in autumn. When they are large, they
require great exertion, and are frequently attended with
inconvenience to get them shifted. Where there is a
quantity of them, the best plan that we have tried or seen
adopted is as follows : Have a strong double and a single
block trimmed with a sufficiency of rope ; make it fast to
the limb of a large tree, or any thing that projects and will
bear the weight, and as high as will admit of the plant
being raised a few feet under it. Take a soft bandage
and put around the stem, to prevent the bark from being
bruised ; make a rope fast to it, in which hook the single
block. Raise the plant the height of the tub, put a spar
across the tub, and strike on the spar with a mallet, which
will separate the tub from the ball. Then with a strong
pointed stick probe a little of the earth from among the
roots, observing to cut away any that are affected by dry
rot, damp, or mildew, with any very matted roots. Having
all dressed, place a potsherds over the hole or holes in the
bottom of the tub ; measure exactly the depth of the ball
that remains around the plant, and fill up with earth, pres-
sing it well with the hand, until it will hold the ball one
inch under the edge of the tub. If there is from two to
four inches of earth under it, it is quite enough. Fill all
around the ball, and press it down with a stick, finishing
neatly off with the hand. Observe that the stem of the
tree is exactly in the centre. This being done, carry the
tree to where it is intended to stand, and give it water with
a rose on the pot. The earth will subside about two inches,
thus leaving three inches, which will, at any time, hold
24*

282 GUEEN-HOUSE — OF PRUNING, &C.

enough of water for the tree. Trees thus treated will not
require to be shifted again within four or five years, having
in the interim got a few rich top-dressings.

Frequently, in attempting to take out of the tubs those
that are in a sickly state, all the soil falls from their roots,
having no fibres attached. When there are any such,
after replanting, put them in the green-house, and shut it
almost close up, there give shade to the tree, and frequent
sprinklings of water, until it begins to grow, when admit
more air gradually until it becomes hardened. Sickly
trees should be put in very small tubs, and a little sand
added to the soil. Give very moderate supplies of water,
merely keeping the soil moist. Tubs generally give way
at the bottom when they begin to decay, and in the usual
method of coopering after this failure they are useless, the
ledging being rotten, and will not admit of another bottom.
The staves should be made without any groove, and have
four brackets nailed on the inside, having the bottom in a
piece by itself, that it can be placed on these brackets, and
there is no necessity of it being water tight. Then when
it fails, it can be replaced again at a trifling expense. A
tub made in this way will last out three or four bottoms,
and is in every respect the cheapest, and should be more
wide than deep. When made in this manner they are
easier shifted ; you have only to set the tub on a high block
of wood, and drive the tub off with a mallet, when the tree
can be easily replaced into another tub. Large Myrtles
and Oleanders may be treated in the same manner as
directed for the above.

OF PRUNING ORANGES, LEMONS, &c.

These trees will grow very irregularly, especially the
Lemon, if not frequently dressed or pruned. Any time
this month look over them all minutely, and cut away any
of the small naked wood where it is too crowded, and cut all
young strong straggling shoots to the bounds of the tree,
giving it a round regular head. It is sometimes necessary
to cut out a small limb, but large amputations should be
avoided. Cover all large wounds with clay, turpentine, or
bees'-wax, to prevent the bad effects of the air.

£ugUSt.~] GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING, &C.

OF REPOTTING PLANTS.

Any of the plants enumerated in March under this head
may be now done according to directions therein given,
and which apply to all sizes. This is the proper period
for repotting the following :

Calla, a genus of four species. None of them in our
collections, and in fact not worth cultivation, except C.
sethiopica, Ethiopian Lily, which is admired for the purity
and singularity of its large white flowers, or rather spatha,
which is cucullate, leaves sagittate. It is now called Rich-
ardia sethiopica. The roots, which are tubers, should be
entirely divested of the soil they -have been grown in,
breaking off any small off-sets, and potting them wholly in
fresh earth. When growing they cannot get too much
water. The plant will grow in a pond of water, and with-
stand our severest winters, provided the roots are kept at
the bottom of the water.

Cyclamen. There are eight species and six varieties of
this genus, which consists of humble plants with very
beautiful flowers. The bulbs are round, flattened and solid,
and are peculiarly adapted for pots and the decorating of
rooms. C. count, leaves almost round ; flowers light red ;
in bloom from January to April. C.persicum, with its four
varieties, flower from January to April ; colour white, and
some white and purple. C. hederssfdlium, Ivy-leaved ;
colour lilac ; there is a white variety ; flowers from Sep-
tember to December. O. Europseum, colour lilac, in bloom
from August to October. C. neapolitanum, flowers red, in
bloom from July to September. These are all desirable
plants. When the foliage begins to decay, withhold the
accustomed supplies of water, keeping them in a half dry
state ; and, when growing, they must not be over- watered,
as they are apt to rot from moisture. Keep them during
the summer months in partial shade. The best time for
potting either of the sorts is when (he crown of the bulb
begins to protrude. If the pots are becoming large, every
alternate year they may be cleared from the old soil, and
put in smaller pots with the crown entirely above the
ground. When the flowers fade, the pedicles twist up like
a screw, enclosing the germen in the centre, lying close to

284 GREEN-HOUSE REPOTTING, &C.

the ground until the seeds ripen, from which plants can
be grown, and will flower the third year.

Lachendlia, a genus of about forty species of bulbs, all
natives of the Cape of Good Hope, and grow well in our
collections. The most common is L. tricolor. L. quadri-
color and its varieties, are all fine ; the colours yellow, scar-
let, orange and green, very pure and distinct ; L. riibida, L.
punctdta, L. orchoides and L. nervosa, are all fine species.
The flowers are on a stem from a half to one foot high,
and much in the character of a hyacinth. The end of the
month is about the time of planting. Five-inch pots are
large enough, and they must get very little water till they
begin to grow.

Oxalis, above one hundred species of Cape bulbs, and,
like all other bulbs of that country, they do exceedingly
well in our collections, in which there are^only compara-
tively a few species, not exceeding twenty. O. hirta,
branching, of a vermilion colour; O.Jlabifolia, yellow; O.
elongata, striped; and amsena, are those that require pot-
ting this month. The first of September is the most pro-
per period for the others. (Soil No. 11.)

This genus of plants is so varied in the construction of
its roots, that the same treatment will not do for all. The
root is commonly bulbous, and these will keep a few weeks
or months out of the soil, according to their size. Several
are only thick and fleshy ; these ought not to be taken out
of the pots, but kept in them, while dormant ; and about
the end of this month give them gentle waterings. When
they begin to grow, take the earth from the roots, and put
them in fresh soil. In a few months the bulbs are curiously
produced, the original bulb near the surface striking a
radical fibre downright from its base, at the extremity of
which is produced a new bulb for the next year's plant, the
old one perishing.

Ornithogalum, Star of Bethlehem, about sixty species
of bulbs, principally from the Cape of Good Hope. Many
of them have but little attraction. The most beautiful that
we have seen are, O. lacteum which has a spike about one
foot long, of fine white flowers ; O. peruvidna, blue flow-
ered, and O. aiireum, flowers of a golden colour, in con-
tracted racemose corymbs. These three are magnificent.
O. maritimum is the oflicinal squill. The bulb is fre-

Sept.~] GREEN-HOUSE - OBSERVATIONS. 385

quently
cated li

as large as a human head, pear-shaped, and tuni-
cated like the onion. From the centre of the root arise
several shining glaucous leaves a foot long, two inches
broad at base, and narrowing to a point. They are green
during winter, and decay in the spring ; then the flower-
stalk comes out, rising two feet, naked half-way, and ter-
minated by a pyramidal thyrse of white bowers. The bulb
ought to be kept dry from the end of June till now, or it
will not flower freely.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

Watering, and other practical care of the plants, to be
done as heretofore described. Frequently the weather at
the end of this month becomes cool and heavy. Dew fall-
ing through the night, will, in part, supply the syringing
operation, but it must not be suspended altogether. Once
or twice a week will suffice. Any of the plants that are
plunged should be turned every week. In wet weather
observe that none are suffering from moisture.

SEPTEMBER.

DURING this month every part of the green-house should
have a thorough cleansing, which is too frequently neglected,
and many hundreds of insects left unmolested. To pre-
serve the wood-work in good order, give it one coat of paint
every year. Repair all broken glass, white-wash the whole
interior, giving the flues two or three coats, and cover the
stages with hot lime, white-wash, or oil-paint; examine
ropes, pulleys, and weights, finishing by washing the pave-
ment perfectly clean. If there have been any plants in the
house during summer, be sure after this cleansing that
they are clean also, before they are returned to their re-
spective situations.

286 GREEN-HOUSE STOCKS, &C. [Sept.

f OF WATERING.

The intensity of the heat being over for the season, the
heavy dews during night will prevent so much absorption
among the plants. They will, in general, especially by the
end of the month, require limited supplies of water compa-
ratively to their wants in the summer months. Be careful
among the Geraniums that were repotted in August, not
to water them until the new soil about their roots is becom-
ing dry. Syringing in this month may be suspended in
time of heavy dews, but in dry nights resort to it again.

The herbaceous plants and those of a succulent nature
must be sparingly supplied. The large trees that were
put in new earth will require a supply only once a week,
but in such quantity as will go to the bottom of the tubs.

PREPARING FOR TAKING IN THE PLANTS.

About the end of the month all the plants should be exa-
mined and cleaned in like manner as directed for those of
the hot-house last month, which see. From the first to
the eighth of October is the most proper time to take them
into the green-house, except those of a half hardy nature,
which may stand out till the appearance of frost. Always
endeavour to have Geranium plants short and bushy, for
they are unsightly otherwise, except where a few very
large specimens are desired for show. All Myrtles and
Oleanders that were headed down, if the young shoots are
too crowded, continue to thin them out, and give regular
turnings, that all the heads may grow regularly.

. STOCKS AND WALL-FLOWERS,

That are wanted to flower in the green-house, (where
they do remarkably well,) and are in the ground, have
them carefully lifted before the end of the month, and
planted in six or seven inch pots, with light loamy soil.
Place them in the shade till they take fresh root, and give
them frequent sprinklings of water. As soon as the foliage

Sept.~\ GREEN-HOUSE—CAPE AND HOLLAND BULBS. 287

becomes erect, expose them to the full sun, and treat as
green-house plants.

CHRYSANTHEMUMS.

These very ornamental plants blooming so late, and at a
period when there are few others in flower, one of each
variety (or two of some of the finest) should be lifted and
put in eight-inch pots, in light loamy soil, and treated as
above directed for stocks, &c. These will flower beauti-
fully from October to December ; and, when done bloom-
ing, the pots may be plunged in the garden, or covered
with any kind of litter until spring, when they can be
divided, and planted out.

CAPE AND HOLLAND BULBS.

About the end of this month is the period for all of these
that are intended for the green-house to be potted. We
specified some of the former last month, and will here enu-
merate a few others.

Babiana, a genus of small bulbs, with pretty blue, white,
red, and yellow flowers. B. distica, pale blue flowers in
two ranks. B. stricfa, flowers blue and white. B. tubi-
JJora, beautiful bright blue. B. plicdta has sweet-scented
pale blue flowers. B. villosa,red', B. sulphurea, sulphur
colour; B. rubro-cyanea, dark purple with crimson centre.
There are about twenty species of them, and they grow
from six to twelve inches high. Five inch pots are suffi-
cient for them. (Soil No. 11.)

Gladiolus, Corn-flag, a genus of above fifty species.
There are several very showy plants among them, and a
few very superb. G. floribundus, large pink and white
flowers. G. cardindlis, flowers superb scarlet, spotted
with white. G. byzantinus, purple. G. bldndus, flowers
of a blush rose colour, and handsome. G. cuspiddtus,
flowers white and purple. G. racemdsus, flowers beauti-
ful rose and white. G. psittadnus ; the flowers are striped
with green, yellow, and scarlet, about four inches in dia-
meter, in great profusion, on a stem about two feet high,

288 GREEN-HOUSE CAPE AND HOLLAND BULBS. [Sept.

G.formosissimus, beautiful bright scarlet, the three upper
petals having a spot of white, a very profuse bloomer. G.
Queen Victoria, G. Lafayette, and several others are of
very similar character. They all do perfectly when kept
dry all winter, and planted in the open ground early in
March. The beauty of this genus is all centered in the
flowers. (Soil No. 10.]

Jxia, a genus containing about twenty-five species of
very free-flowering bulbs. /. monadelpha, flowers blush
and green. /. leucantha, flowers large white. 7. capa-
tata, flowers in heads, of a white and almost black colour.
/. cornea, flowers orange and velvet. /. columelaris is a
beautiful shaded rosy purple. 7. kermoslna, a fine ver-
milion colour. 7. squallida, shaded rosy lilac ; 7. viridi-
flbra, green; 7. longi/lora, buff. The flower stems are
from six to twenty-four inches high. (Soil No. 11.)

Lilium. The Chinese species of this emblem of purity
is everywhere esteemed, and the fine Chinese sorts are
very splendid, such as L. longi/lora, L. longi/lora suaveo-
lens, and L. japonicum, are all pure white ; L. lancifolium,
white, petals reflexed ; L. lantifblium punctatum, white
spotted with rose ; L. lancifolium speciosum, rose, spotted
with crimson. L. lancifolium and its varieties, are all
delightfully scented with the odour of vanilla ; noble spe-
cimens of the family from Japan, growing from four to six
feet high ; a full grown bulb producing from ten to twenty
flowers, and perfectly hardy south of Philadelphia." They
should be potted in seven or eight-inch pots, and kept in a
cool part of the green-house ; give the pots at least one inch
of drainage. (Soil No. 11.)

Oxdlis. All the varieties and species may now be
potted ; the whole are pretty spring flowers, requiring to
be kept near the glass : among the many the following are
very deserving of attention : O. laxulus, or rosucea, bright
rose. O. Bowii, bright rose red, a large and profuse
bloomer, and one of the finest. O. JJorabunda, pink ; a

Sretty free-flowering tuberous species. O. luxula alba,
ush white ; O. multiftora, profuse flowering white. O.
versicolor, striped. O. dippii, lilac, which blooms in
summer. O. caparina, yellow ; there is also a double
yellow variety, though not pretty ; for a few others see last
month. There should be three or four bulbs planted in a

Sept."] GREEN-HOUSE— HOLLAND BULBS. 289

five-inch pot, giving very little water till they begin to
grow. They will all keep in good pits, as well as in the
green-house. (Soil No. 11.)

Sparaxis. We are enraptured with this beautiful genus
of small bulbs, closely allied to Ixia, but more varied in
colour. S. grandiflora striata is striped with purple and
white. S. versicolor, colours crimson, dark purple, and
yellow. S. tricolor, yellow, black, and scarlet. S. albida,
large white, with black spots. S. caelestis, bluish purple.
S. sulphured, yellow. S. purpiirescens, purple. Treat as
Oxdlis. (Soil No. 11.)

Tritonia, a genus of about twenty-five species. Few of
them deserve culture in regard to their beauty. T. crocata
is in our collections as 7. crocata, which is among the
finest, and T. zanthosplla has white flowers, curiously
spotted with yellow. (Soil No. 11.)

Watsonia, a genus containing several species of showy
flowers, several of which are in our collections under the
genus Gladiolus, but the most of the species may be dis-
tinguished from it by their flat shell-formed bulbs. W. iri-
difolia is the largest of the genus, and has flowers of a flesh
colour. W. rosea is large growing, the flowers are pink,
and on the stem in a pyramidal form. W. humilis is a
pretty red flowering species. W.fulgida, once Antliolyza
fidgens, has fine bright scarlet flowers. W. rubens is an
esteemed red flowering species, but scarce. (Soil No. 11.)

These genera of bulbous plants are in general cultivation.
There are, no doubt, some splendid species that have not
come under our observation, and others which may be ob-
tained from the Cape of Good Hope and China that are
not known in any collection, all of which would be per-
fectly hardy in our southern states. Bulbs generally re-
quire very little water until they begin to grow ; then sup-
ply moderately, and keep them near the light. Of the
Holland or Dutch bulbs, the Hyacinth is the favourite to
bloom in the green-house. A few of the Tulip, Narcissus,
Iris and Crocus, may, for variety, be also planted with any
other that curiosity may dictate. When these are grown in
pots, the soil should be four-eighths loam, two-eighths leaf
mould, one-eighth decomposed manure, one-eighth sand,
well compounded ; plant in pots from five to seven inches,
keep the crown of the bulb above the surface of the soil,

290 GREEN-HOUSE OF TAKING IN, &C. [Oct.

except of the tulip, which should be covered two inches.
When these roots are potted, plunge them in the garden
about three inches under ground ; mark out a space suffi-
cient to contain them; throw out the earth about four
inches deep, place the pots therein, covering them with
earth to the above depth, making it in the form of a bed.
Leave a trench all round to carry off the rain. By so doing,
the bulbs will root strongly, the soil will be kept in a con-
genial state about them, and they will prove far superior
than if done in the common method. Lift them from this
bed on the approach of frost, or not later than the second
week of December ; wash the pots and take them into the
green-house.

OCTOBER.

OF TAKING IN AND ARRANGING THE PLANTS.

As observed in the previous month, let the housing of
green-house plants now be attended to. Have all in before
the eighth of the month, except a few of the half hardy
sorts, which may stand until convenient. Begin by taking
in all the tallest first, such as Oranges, Lemons, Myrtles,
Oleanders, &c. Limes ought to be kept in the warmest
part of the house, otherwise they will throw their foliage.
In. arrangement, order is necessary to have a good effect;
and in small houses it ought to be neat and regular, placing
the tallest behind, and according to their size graduating
the others down to the lowest in front. Dispose the differ-
ent sorts in varied order over the house, making the con-
trast as striking as possible. Having the surface of the
whole as even as practicable, with a few of the most con-
spicuous for shape and beauty protruding above the mass,
which will much improve the general appearance, and
greatly add to the effect. All succulents should be put
together. In winter they will do in a dark part of the
house, where other plants will not grow, studying to have

Oct.'] GREEN-HOUSE— OF REPOTTING. 291

the most tender kinds in the warmest part, and giving
gentle waterings every three or four weeks. When all
are arranged give them a proper syringing, after which
wipe clean all the stages, benches, &c., sweeping out all
litter, and wash clean the pavement, which will give to all
a neat and becoming appearance.

Let the waterings now be done in the mornings, as often
and in such quantities as will supply their respective wants,
examining the plants every day.

During the continuance of mild weather, the circulation
of air must be as free as possible, opening the doors and
front and top sashes regularly over the house. But ob-
serve in frosty nights to keep all close shut. Be attentive
in clearing off decayed leaves and insects.

Any plants of Lager straemia, Sterculia, Hydrangea,
Pomegranate, and others equally hardy, that are decidu-
ous, may be kept perfectly in a dry, light, airy cellar : give
frequent admissions of air, and one or two waterings dur-
ing winter.

OF REPOTTING.

Anemones. Where A. nemorosa flbre pleno and A.
thalictroides Jlbre pleno are kept in pots in the green-
house, they should be turned out of the old earth, and
planted in fresh soil. They are both pretty, low growing,
double white flowering plants, and require a shaded situa-
tion. The latter is now called Thalictrum anemonoides.
(Soil No. 11.)

Daphne is a genus of diminutive shrubs, mostly ever-
greens, of great beauty and fragrance. Very few species
of them are in our collections. I), odora, frequently called
D. indica, is an esteemed plant for the delightful odour of
its flowers, and valuable for the period of its flowering,
being from December to March, according to the situation ;
leaves scattered, oblong, lanceolate and smooth; flowers
small white in many flowered terminal heads : there is a
variety equally as fine with marginated foliage. D. odora
rubra, the buds are red, and the flowers rose white, of a
delightful spicy fragrance. D. hybrida is a species in high
estimation at present in Europe, but little known here,

292 GREEN-HOUSE OF REPOTTING. \_Oti.

being only in a few collections , flowers rosy purple, in
terminal heads, and lateral bunches in great profusion;
blooms from January to May, and is of a peculiar fra-
grance. D. oleoides is what may be termed " ever-bloom
ing:" flowers of a lilac colour; leaves elliptic, lanceolate,
smooth. I), laiireola, Spurge laurel ; J). pontica, D. al-
pina, and 2). Cneorum, are all fine species, and in Europe
are esteemed ornaments in the shrubbery, but they are not
hardy in our vicinity. (Soil No. 15.)

Primula. There are a few fine species and varieties
in this genus, adapted either for the green-house or rooms.
All the species and varieties will keep perfectly well in a
frame, except the China sorts. Having previously ob-
served a few of the other species and varieties, we will
observe the treatment of these. P. sinensis, now prseni-
tens, known commonly as China Primrose; flowers pink,
and in large proliferous umbels, flowering almost through
the whole year, but most profusely from January to May
• — there is a double variety of it. Keep them in the shade,
and be careful that they are not over-watered during sum-
mer. As the stems of the plant become naked, at this re-
potting a few inches should be taken off the bottom of the
ball, and placing them in a larger pot, will allow the stems
to be covered up to the leaves. P. p. albiflbra, colour
pure white and beautiful. P. p. dentiflora. There is
also a white variety of this, both similar to the former two,
only the flower indented or fringed. All these require the
same treatment. As they live only a few years, many
individuals, to propagate them, divide the stems, which in
most cases will utterly destroy them. The best, and we
may say the only method to increase them is, from seed,
which they produce every year. (Soil No. 2.)

Pseonia moutan: this magnificent plant and its varieties
are quite hardy with us, but most of them require the green-
house in northern latitudes. These are P. moutan, Tree
Paeony ; the flower is about five inches in diameter, of a
blush colour, and semi-double. P. M. Banksii is the com-
mon Tree Pasony, and called in our collection P. moutan ;
it has a very large double blush flower, and is much ad-
mired. P. M. papaverdcea is a most magnificent variety ;
has large single white flowers, with purple centres. P.
M. rosea is a splendid rose-coloured double variety, and is

Oct.'] GREEN-HOUSE—CAMELLIAS. 293

scarce ; there are also in China several other varieties, such
as purple, scarlet and crimson, which we have not seen in
cultivation, and within these few years, many varieties
have originated in Europe, said to be very magnificent.
These plants ought not to be exposed to the sun while in
flower, as the colours become degenerated, and premature
decay follows.

If the Dutch bulbs intended for flowering during winter
are not potted, have them all done as soon as possible,
according to directions given last month.

CAMELLIAS.

These plants ought to have a thorough examination, and
those that were omitted in repotting before they commenced
growing, may be done in the early part of this month ; but
it is not advisable, except the roots are all round the ball of
earth, which should be turned out entire. Examine all the
pots, stir up the surface of the earth, and take it out to the
roots, supplying its place with fresh soil. Destroy any
worms that may be in the pots, as they are very destruc-
tive to the fibres. Look over the foliage, and, with a sponge
and water, clear it of all dust, &c. Frequently the buds
are too crowded on these plants, especially the Double
white and Variegated. In such case pick off the weakest,
and where there are two together, be careful in cutting, so
that the remaining bud may not be injured.

This is the best period of the year to make selections of
these, as they now can be transported hundreds of miles
without any material injury, if they are judiciously packed
in close boxes. In making a choice of these, keep in view
to have distinctly marked varieties, including a few of
those that are esteemed as stocks for producing new kinds,
which are undoubtedly indispensable, and will reward the
cultivator in a few years with new sorts. Besides, it will
afford unbounded gratification to behold any of these uni-
versally admired ornaments of the green-house improving
by our assistance and under our immediate observation.
There is nothing to prevent any individual from producing
splendid varieties in a few years. Mr. Hogg correctly
observes, " It is very probable in a few years we shall have
25*

294 GREEN-HOUSE CAMELLIA SEEDS.

as great a variety of Camellias as there are of Tulips, Hya-
cinths, Carnations, Auriculas, &c." This shrewd remark
is likely to be verified much earlier than we anticipated.

It has been often said that these plants are difficult of
cultivation. This is unfounded ; indeed they are the reverse
if put in a soil congenial to their nature. When highly
manured soils are given, which are poisonous to the plants,
sickness or death will inevitably ensue ; but this cannot be
attributed to the delicacy of their nature. We can unhe-
sitatingly say, there is no green-house plant more hardy or
easier of cultivation, provided they are kept at an even
temperature, say from 40° to 45° during night, and 45° to
50° during day, and they are equally so in the parlour, if
not kept confined in a room where there is a continuance
of drying fire heat, their constitution not agreeing with an
arid atmosphere.

SOWING CAMELLIA SEED.

These seeds ripen generally during September and Octo-
ber, and must be sown as soon as ripe ; plant them about
one inch under ground into pots filled with leaf mould,
loam, and white sand, in equal portions ; if the pots after
sowing can be placed in a hot-house, they will vegetate in
about six weeks, and be ready to pot into single pots in Feb-
ruary. Many of them will bloom in the second year ; but
if heat is not accessible, keep the pots in the wannest part
of the green-house, and give an occasional watering, and
the plants will appear some time in May and June : they
will be ready to pot into single pots in September, and after
doing so put them into a close frame, and shade from the
sun for a few weeks ; use at this potting only about one-
fifth of sand.

NOV.'] GREEN-HOUSE GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 295

NOVEMBER.

OF AIR AND WATER.

AIRING the house should be strictly attended to. Every
day that there is no frost it may be admitted largely, and
in time of slight frosts in smaller portions, never keeping
it altogether close when the sun has any effect on the inte-
rior temperature of the house, which should not be allowed
to be higher than fifty degrees.

Water must be given in a very sparing manner. None
of the plants are in an active state of vegetation, conse-
quently it will be found that looking over them thrice a
week and supplying their wants will be sufficient. Suc-
culents will need a little once in three weeks or a month.
Give very moderate supplies to the Amaryllis that are
dormant, and keep all these bulbs in the warmest part of
the house.

OF TENDER BULBS.

Where there are tropical bulbs in the collection, and
there is not the convenience of a hot-house, they may be
very well preserved by shaking them clear of the soil.
Dry them properly, and place them in a box of ve.ry dry
sand or moss, and put them in a situation near the furnace,
where they will be free from damp. These can be potted
about the first of April. Give no water till they begin to
grow, then plant them in the garden about the middle of
May, where they will flower during the summer season, if
they are mature.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

If there are any of the half hardy plants exposed, have
them taken into the house, or under the requisite protec-
tion, in frames, pits, cellars, &c. The autumn flowering

296 GREEN-HOUSE—OBSERVATIONS.

Cape bulbs should be placed near the glass, and free from
the shade of other plants. Cleanliness through the whole
house and among the plants ought at all times to be at-
tended to.

DECEMBER.

THE weather may probably be now severe, and it is at
all times advisable to keep the temperature as steady and
regular as possible. The thermometer should be kept in
the centre of the house, and free from the effects of reflec-
tion. As noticed last month, sun heat may be as high as
50° in the house, and would not be hurtful, but it should
not continue so for any considerable time without admis-
sion of air. The fire heat should not exceed 45°, and never
below 35°. It ought not to continue at that point — 36° is
the lowest for a continuation that with safety can be prac-
tised, and where a collection of Cactii are kept, 40° should
be the lowest. So that no error may occur, the tempera-
ture ought to be known in the coolest and warmest parts
of the house, and the variation remembered ; then what-
ever part of the house the thermometer is placed, a true
calculation of the heat of the whole interior can be made.
We would recommend to the inexperienced to keep the
thermometer in the coldest part of the house. A green-
house compactly and closely built, and the lowest row of
top sash all covered with shutters, (which no house ought
to be constructed without,) will seldom require artificial
heat ; but by being long kept close, the damp will increase.
In such case give a little fire heat, and admit air to purify
the house. In fresh mild weather give liberal portions of
air all over the house ; and though there is a little frost,
while mild, and the sun shining, the plants will be bene-
fited by a small portion of air for the space of an hour, or
even for half of that time. .

Whatever state the weather may be through the winter,
never keep the house long shut up. Thirty-six hours

GREEN-HOUSE BULBOUS ROOTS. 297

should be the longest time at once ; rather give a little fire
heat.

We are no advocates for keeping plants in the dark,
and never think that our plants are receiving justice if kept
longer in darkness than one night.

BULBOUS ROOTS.

Those that were plunged in the garden, if not lifted and
brought under cover, this should now be done without de-
lay. Clean the pots, and stir up the surface of the soil.
Hyacinths grow neatest by being kept very close to the top
glass ; the flower stems are thereby stronger and shorter.
Water moderately until they begin to grow freely.

THE

AMERICAN FLOWER GARDEN

DIRECTORY.

ROOMS.

PLANTS IN ROOMS.

To TREAT on the proper management of plants in windows
is a subject of considerable difficulty : every genus requir-
ing some variation both in soil, water and general treat-
ment. However, a great part of the labour will be abridged
by referring to these subjects in the green-house culture,
which is quite applicable to the parlour, green-room, or
veranda. If the room where the -plants are kept is dark
and close, but few will ever thrive ; if, on the contrary, it
is light and airy, with the windows in a suitable aspect to
receive the sun, plants will do nearly as well, and, in some
instances, better, than in a green-house. This is a well-
known fact, and may be observed every day. We have
seen as fine plants of Cactus, Daphne, Roses, Geraniums,
Callas, Laurestinus, Carnations, Azaleas and Myrtles,
grown in a window from year to year, as ever could be
grown in a green-house. Indeed, when there is a failure,
it can be traced to one of the following three causes :

1st. Want of proper light and pure air is, perhaps, the
most essential point of any to be considered ; for, however
well all other requisites are attended to, a deficiency in
either of these will cause the plants to grow weak, yellow,
and sickly. Therefore, have them always placed as near
the light as possible, and receive as much air as can be

ROOMS PLANTS IN ROOMS. JflttJ

admitted, when the weather will allow, and occasionally, in
fine days, carry them out of doors, and give them a sprink-
ling of water all over.

2d. Injurious watering does more injury to plants in
rooms than many persons imagine ; and it is very often to
be observed, that some individuals destroy all with too
much, and others kill all with too little of that nourisher of
health. To prevent the soil ever having a dry appearance,
is an object of great importance in the estimation of many :
they, therefore, water to such an excess, that the soil be-
comes sodden, and the roots consequently perish. Others,
as we have said, run to the opposite extreme, and do not
give sufficient to sustain life, and this is a more common
practice than that of too much. The best plan is, always
to allow the mould in the pot to have the appearance of
dryness, but never sufficient to make the plant droop be-
fore a supply of water is given, which should then be
copious and thoroughly going to the bottom of the pot ; but
always empty it out of the saucer or pan in which the pot
stands : the water used should always be of about the
same temperature as that in which the plants grow ; avoid
using it fresh from the pump.

3d. Being over-potted in unsuitable soil. This is also
a crying evil, and large pots invariably given to weak plants,
with the view of causing them to grow ; but such practi-
tioners are like the unskilful physician who gluts the
weakly stomach of his patient, only hastening on what
they are trying to prevent. With weak plants the very
reverse should be practised, giving small pots to encourage
their roots outward : whereas, the earth in a large pot to a
small plant, with frequent waterings, soon becomes sour
and stagnated, and utterly obnoxious to the roots of even
the strongest growing plants. If the directions and table
of soils, in this work, are properly followed up, unsuitable
soils will rarely occur, especially when each genus is sepa-
rately treated.

In fact, we have yet to be convinced why all plants, with
the exception of a few tropical, and those belonging to
Ericex and Epacridese, will not grow and bloom well in
rooms and windows. With the following monthly instruc-
tions, and executing them properly, failure will seldom
occur; but where failure should occur, wre would call par-

300 ROOMS — WATERING, &c. [Jan.

ticular attention to the tribe of Cactii, which are varied,
beautiful and truly interesting, and grow admirably in dry
rooms, with or without full exposure to the sun, and in any
temperature from 45° to 85°, requiring only small portions
of water once a week in winter, and twice or thrice a week
during summer: they also only require fresh soil once a
year, or even once in two years, for large plants will be
found sufficient. The variety now cultivated is truly asto-
nishing, and we doubt not, but in a few years, large horti-
cultural buildings will be erected for their express culture ;
and, to the inexperienced amateur, there is not a family of
plants that will give more satisfaction, or, when properly
studied, will afford greater interest and amusement.

JANUARY.

PLANTS that are kept in rooms generally are such as re-
quire a medium temperature, say from 40° to 60°. Sit-
ting rooms or parlours, about this season, are, for the most
part, heated from 60° to 70°, and very seldom has the air
any admittance into these apartments ; thus keeping the
temperature from 10° to 15° higher than the nature of the
plants requires, and excluding that fresh air which is requi-
site to support a vegetative principle. Therefore, as far
as practicable, let the plants be kept in a room adjoining
to one where there is fire heat, and the intervening door
can be opened when desirable. They will admit sometimes
of being as low as 38°.

If they be constantly kept where there is fire, let the
window be open some inches, once a day, for a few minutes,
thereby making the air of the apartment more congenial,
both for animal and vegetable nature.

WATERING, &c.

All that is necessary is merely to keep the soil in a moist
slate, that is, do not let it get so dry that you can divide the

Jan.~] ROOMS— OP INSECTS, &c. 301

particles of earth, nor so wet that they could be beat to clay.
The frequency of watering can be best regulated by the
person doing it, as it depends entirely upon the size of the
pot or jar in proportion to the plant, whether it is too small
or too large, and the situation it stands in, whether moist or
arid. Never allow any quantity of water to stand in the
flats or saucers. This is too frequently practised with
plants in general. Such as Cdlla JEthiopica, or African
Lily, will do well, as water is its element; (like Sagittaria
in this country;) the Hydrangea and Hyacinths, when in
a growing state, will do admirably under such treatment.
Many plants may do well for some time, but it being so
contrary to their nature, causes premature decay; a fetid
stagnation takes place at the root, the foliage becomes
yellow, the plant stunted, and death follows.

OF CAMELLIA JAPONICA.

In rooms, the buds of Camellias will be well swelled,
and on the double white and double variegated sorts per-
haps they will be full-blown. While in that state the tem-
perature should not be below 40° ; if lower, they will not
expand so well, and the expanded petals will soon become
yellow and decay. If they are where there is fire heat,
they must have plenty of air admitted to them every favour-
able opportunity, and water freely given, or the consequence
will be, that all the buds will turn dark brown, and fall off.
It is generally the case, in the treatment of these beautiful
plants in rooms, that, through too much intended care, they
are entirely destroyed. They do not agree with confined
air, and to sponge frequently will greatly promote the
health of the plants and add to the beauty of their foliage,
as it prevents the attacks of the red spider.

When the flowers are expanded, and droop, 'tie tfyem.
up neatly, so that the flower may be shown to every ad-
vantage.

OF INSECTS, «fec.

Insects of various kinds will be appearing on your
plants. For method of destruction, see Hot-house, Jamt-
36

302 ROOMS— OF BULBOUS ROOTS, &c. [Jan.

ary. It will not be agreeable to fumigate the room or
rooms, or even to have the smell of tobacco near the house
from this cause.

Take a tub of soft water, (if the day is frosty, it had
better be done in the house,) invert the plant, holding the
hand, or tying a piece of cloth, or any thing of the kind,
over the soil in the pot, put all the branches in the water,
keeping the pot in the hand, drawing it to and fro a few
times ; take it out and shake it. If any insects remain,
take a small fine brush, and brush them off, giving ano-
ther dip, which will clean them for the present. As soon
as they appear again, repeat the process — for nothing that
we have found out, or heard of, can totally extirpate them.

OF BULBOUS ROOTS IN GENERAL.

If you have retained any of the Cape bulbs from the last
planting, let them be put in, in the early part of the month.
For method, see September. Those that are growing must
be kept very near the light, that is, close to the window, or
they will not flourish to your satisfaction. The fall-flower-
ing oxalis may be kept on the stage, or any other place, to
give room to those that are to flower.

Hyacinths, Jonquils, Narcissus, Tulips, &c., will keep
very well in a room where fire heat is constantly kept,
provided that they are close to the window. A succession
of these, as before observed, may beautify the drawing-
room from February to April, by having a reserved stock,
in a cold situation, and taking a few of them every week
into the warmest apartment.

Wherever any of the bulbs are growing, and in the inte-
rior of the room, remove them close to the light, observing
to turn the pots or glasses frequently to prevent them from
growing to one side, and giving them support as soon
as the stems droop, or the head becomes pendent. The
saucers under the Hyacinth and Narcissus may stand with
water, and observe to change the water in the glasses once
or twice a week.

Everyone that has any taste or refinement in their floral
undertakings, will delight in seeing the plants in perfec-
tion : to have them so, they must be divested of every leaf

Feb.'] ROOMS— CAMELLIAS. 303

that has the appearance of decaying — let this always he
attended to.

FEBRUARY.

AT this season the plants call for the most assiduous
attention. If the stage has been made according to our
description in September, in very cold nights it should be
drawn to the centre of the room, or at least withdrawn
from the window, observing every nights to close the
window tight by shutters, or some substitute equally as
good. And, if the temperature begins to fall below 40°,
means should be adopted to prevent it from lowering,
either by putting a fire in the room, or opening any adjoin-
ing apartment where fire is constantly kept. This latter
method is the best where it is practicable, and ought to be
studied to be made so.

Some very injudiciously, in extreme frosts, put into the
room, where there is no chimney, among the plants, a
furnace of charcoal, in order to heat the room. The effect
is, that the foliage becomes dark brown and hardened like,
and many of the plants die, the rest not recovering until
summer.

Watering may be attended to according to the directions
of January, only observing that those that begin to grow
will absorb a little more than those that are dormant.

Roses, especially the daily, if kept in the house, will
begin to show flower. Use means to kill the green-fly
that may attack them.

Hyacinths and other bulbs must have regular attendance
in tying up, &c. Take care not to tie them too tightly,
leaving sufficiency of space for the stem to expand. Give
those in the glasses their necessary supplies, and keep
them all near the light. Never keep bulbous roots, while
growing, under the shade of any other plant.

Camellias, with all their varied beauties, will, in this
month, make a splendid show. Adhere to the directions
given in the previous month, and so that new varieties

304 ROOMS — REPOTTING. \_March.

may be obtained, (see green-house, February, under the
head of Camellia,} which directions are equally applicable
here. When the flowers are full-blown, and kept in a
temperature between 40° and 50°, they will be perfect for
the space of four, five, and frequently six weeks, and a
good selection of healthy plants will continue to flower
from December to April.

Be sure that there is a little air admitted at all favoura-
ble opportunities.

MARCH.

IF the plants in these situations have been properly at-
tended to by admitting air at all favourable times, and when
the apartment was below 40°, a little fire heat applied to
counteract the cold, keeping the heat above that degree,
your attention will be rewarded by the healthy appearance
of your plants. The weather by this time has generally
become milder, so that air may be more freely admitted,
especially from ten to three o'clock. They will require a
more liberal supply of water, but always avoid keeping
them wet. Pick off all decayed leaves, and tie up any
straggling shoots ; give the pots a top-dressing with fresh
soil, which will greatly invigorate the plants, and will allow
the fresh air to act upon the roots, which is one of the prin-
cipal assistants in vegetation. For those that require shift-
ing or repotting, see green-house, March; the plants enu-
merated there equally apply here, if they are in the collec-
tion, with this difference, that well-kept rooms are about two
or three weeks earlier than the green-house. After the
end of this month, where there is a convenience, plants
will do better in windows that look, to the east, in which
the direct rays of a hot sun are prevented from falling upon
them, arid the morning sun is more congenial for plants in
this country than the afternoon sun. Where there is any
dust on the leaves of any of them, take a sponge and water,
and make the whole clean ; likewise divest them of all in-
sects. The green-fly is perhaps on the roses ; if there are

March."] ROOMS — FLOWERING PLANTS. 305

no conveniences for fumigating, wash them off as previously
directed. Where there are only a few plants, these pests
could be very easily kept off by examining the plants every
day. For the scaly insect, see January. If they have
not been cleared off, get it done directly ; for by the heat
of the weather they will increase tenfold.

FLOWERING PLANTS.

Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissus, Jonquils and Crocus,
will be generally in flower. The former require plenty of
water, and the saucers under the pots should be constantly
full until they are done blooming. The others need only
be liberally supplied at the surface of the pot. Give them
neat green painted rods to support their flower stems, and
keep them all near the light. The spring flowering Oxalis
will not open except it is exposed to the full rays of the
sun. The Lachenalia is greatly improved in colour with
exposure to the sun, though when in flower, its beauties
are preserved by keeping it a little in the shade.

Primulas, or Primrose, both Chinese and European, de-
light in an airy exposure ; but the sun destroys the beauty
of their flowers, by making the colours fade.

Camellias. Many of them will be in perfection. See
green-house this month for a description of the finest varie-
ties. Do not let the sun shine upon the blooms. Those
that are done flowering will, in small pots, require to be
repotted.

The Hyacinths that are in glasses must be regularly sup-
plied with water. The roots will be very much reduced
by this method ; therefore, when the bloom is over, if pos-
sible, plant them in the garden, or bury them in pots of
earth, to ripen and strengthen the bulbs. They cannot
satisfactorily be again flowered in glasses, and, properly,
they ought not to be allowed to bloom in the garden next
year. Those that are done flowering in pots can be set
aside, and the usual waterings gradually withdrawn. Treat
all other Dutch bulbs in a similar manner.

26*

306 ROOMS DIRECTIONS, &C. [April.

APRIL.

WE remarked last month, that, about this season, where
it is convenient, an eastern window is more congenial to
plants than a southern. The sun becomes too powerful,
and the morning sun is preferable to that of the afternoon.
"West is also preferable to south. Some keep their flower-
ing plants in excellent order at a north window. But the
weather is so mild after this, that there is no difficulty in
protecting and growing plants in rooms. They generally
suffer most from want of air and water ; the window must
be up a few inches, or altogether, according to the mild-
ness of the day. And as plants are liable to get covered
with dust in these apartments, and not so convenient to be
syringed or otherwise cleaned, take the first opportunity of
a mild day to carry them to a shady situation, and syringe
well with water such as are not in flower; or, for want of
a syringe, take a watering-pot with a rose upon it ; allow-
ing them to stand until they drip, when they may be put
into their respective situations; or expose them to a shower
of rain, but avoid allowing them to be deluged, which
would be very injurious.

DIRECTIONS FOR PLANTS BROUGHT PROM THE
GREEN-HOUSE.

Any plants that are brought from the green-house during
the spring months ought to be as little exposed to the direct
rays of the sun as possible. Keep them in airy situations,
with plenty of light, giving frequent and liberal supplies of
water. Plants may be often observed through our city
during this month fully exposed in the outside of a south
window, with the blaze of a mid-day sun upon them, and
these, too, just come from the temperate and damp atmo-
sphere of a well-regulated green-house. Being thus placed
in an arid situation, scorched between the glass and the
sun, whose heat is too powerful for them to withstand, the
transition is so sudden, that, however great their beauties
may have appeared, they in a few days become brown, the

April.'} ROOMS BRINGING PLANTS OUT, &C. 307

flowers tarnish or decay, and the failure is generally attri-
buted to individuals not at all concerned. From this and
similar causes many have drawn the unjust conclusion,
viz., that " plants from green-houses are of too delicate a
nature to be exposed in rooms or windows at this early
season." But every year gives more and more proof to
the contrary. There are ladies in Philadelphia, and those
not a few, whose rooms and windows at this period vie
with the finest of our green-houses, with respect to the
health, beauty and order of their plants, and we might
almost say in variety. Some of them have got above twenty
kinds of Camellias in their collections, which afford a con-
tinual beauty through the winter, with many other desira-
ble and equally valuable plants. The plants generally are
now growing pretty freely, and are not so liable to suffer
from liberal supplies of Avater, observing never to give it
until the soil in the pot is inclining to become dry, and ad-
ministering it in the evenings or mornings.

FLOWERING PLANTS.

Our directions last month under this head will equally
apply now. The Chinese roses and geraniums that are
now coming plentifully into flower should be kept near the
light, and in airy exposures, to brighten their colours,
otherwise they will be very pale and sickly.

BRINGING PLANTS OUT OF THE CELLAR, &c.

All or most of the plants that have been in the cellar dur-
ing winter, such as Pomegranates, Lagerstrsemias, Hy-
drangeas, Oleanders, Sweet-bay, fyc., may be brought out
to the open air any time about the middle of the month. If
any of them stand in need of larger pots or tubs, have them
turned out, the balls reduced, and put them in others a little
larger, or where convenient, they may be planted in the
ground. Be sure to keep the Hydrangeas in shady situa-
tions. It will not be advisable to expose entirely the
orange and lemon trees until the end of this or first of next
month. Where there is any scale or foulness of any

308 ROOMS — OBSERVATIONS. \_May.

kind collected on the foliage or wood, have it cleaned
directly before the heat increases the one, and to get clear
of the disagreeable appearance of the other.

MAY.

ALL the plants will be able to withstand exposure, in the
general state of the seasons, about the tenth of the month.
Begin about the first, to take out the hardiest, such as Lau-
restinus, Hydrangeas, Hoses, Primroses, Polyanthus,
&c., and thus allow the others to stand more free and be-
come hardened to exposure. The reason that plants are
so often seen brown, stunted, and almost half dead during
summer, is from the exposed situation they are placed in,
with the direct sun upon them, and too frequently from
being so sparingly watered. There are no shrubby plants
cultivated in pots that are benefited by full exposure to the
hot sun from this period to September. A north-eastern
aspect is the best for every plant except Cactus, jlloe, Me-
sembryanthemum, and such as go under the name of suc-
culents, which may be fully exposed to the sun, but not to
long and continued rains. Where there only a few plants,
they should be conveniently placed, to allow water from a
pot with a rose mouth to be poured frequently over them,
which is the best substitute for the syringe. Daphne,
Coronilla, Fuchsia, Camellia, Primrose and Polyanthus,
do not agree with bright sun through the summer. There
has been a general question what is the cause of the death
of so many of the Daphne odora. It may be observed,
that the first place that shows symptoms of decay is at the
surface of the soil, and this takes place a few weeks be-
fore there are evident effects of it. The cause is from the
effect of heat or sun and water, acting on the stem at least.
If the soil is drawn in the form of a cone round the stem,
to throw ofF the water to the edges of the pot, that the
stem may be dry above the roots, mortification does not take
place, neither do they die prematurely when thus treated.
For farther remarks, see green-house this month.

June and July.~] ROOMS — REPOTTING.

CAPE BULBS.

Any of these that are done flowering, such as Ixia, Oxa-
lis, Lachenalia, &c., as soon as the foliage begins to decay,
turn the pots on their sides, which will ripen the roots,
and, when perfectly dry, clear them from the soil, wrap
them up in paper, with their names attached, and put them
carefully aside until the time of planting.

REPOTTING.

Where it is required, repot Cactus, Jlloe, Mesembrydn-
themiims, and all other succulents, with any of the Ama-
ryllis that are required to he kept in pots ;• also, Cape Jas-
mines. For description of the above, see hot-house and
green-house of this month, under the same head.

JUNE AND JULY.

THE only attention requisite to these plants is, in giving
water, keeping them from being much exposed to either
sun or high winds, and preventing the attack of insects.
Water must be regularly given every evening, when there
has not been rain during the day. Where they are in a
growing state, they are not liable at this season of the year
to suffer from too much water, except in a few instances,
such as the Lemon-scented Geranium, and those kinds that
are tuberose-rooted, as rfrdens, Sicolor, Tristum, &c.,
which should have moderate supplies.

All the plants ought to be turned round every few weeks
to prevent them from growing to one side, by the one being
more dark than the other, and keep those of a straggling
growth tied neatly to rods. Wherever insects of any de-
scription appear, wash them off directly. Give regular
syringings or sprinklings from the rose of a watering-pot.

310 ROOMS OBSERVATIONS.

Be particularly attentive in this respect to the Camellias,
which will keep the foliage in a healthy state.

If the foliage of Lilium longiflorum or Japonicum, has
decayed, do not water them while dormant, as they are
easily injured by such treatment.

AUGUST.

FOR the kinds of plants that require potting, we refer to
the green-house for this month. All that are therein spe-
cified are peculiarly adapted for rooms, and we would
call attention to the genus Cyclamen, which has not been
generally introduced into the collections of our ladies ; as,
from the character and beauty of the flowers, they are very
attracting and highly deserving of culture. Attend to the
Geraniums as there directed, and be particular in having
them cut down and repotted, as there fully described. The
Oranges, Lemons, Oleanders and Myrtles, that are kept in
cellars or rooms, should have the same attention in this
month as directed in the green-house, which to repeat
here, would be occupying space unnecessarily.

Reseda odordta, or Mignonette, is one of the most fra-
grant annuals. To have it in perfection during winter,
the seed should be sown about the end of this month, or
the beginning of next, into pots of fine light earth, and
sprinkled with water frequently. When it comes up, the
plants must be thinned out or transplanted: the former
method is preferable. Keep them from frost during win-
ter, and always near the light.

This will equally apply to the green-house.

Cape bulbs, such as Sparaxis, Ixia, Oxalis and La-
chendlia, should now be planted. For method and sorts,
see green-house in August and September.

Sept.~\ ROOMS GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 311

SEPTEMBER.

WHERE there is a quantity of plants to be kept in these
apartments, they should be disposed of to the best effect,
and, at the same time, in such a manner as will be most
effectual to their preservation. A stage of some descrip-
tion is better than a table, and, of whatever shape or form,
it ought to be on castors, that it may, in severe nights of
frost, be drawn to the centre of the room. The shape may
be either concave, a half circle, or one square side. The
bottom step or table should be six inches wide and five
inches deep, keeping each successive step one inch farther
apart, to the desired height, which may be about six feet.
Allowing the first step to be about two feet from the floor,
there will be five or six steps, which will hold about fifty
pots of a common size. A stage in the form of half a circle
will hold more, look the handsomest, and be most conve-
nient. We have seen them circular, and, when filled,
appeared like a pyramid. These do very well, but they
must be turned every day, or the plants will not grow
regularly. With this attention it is decidedly the best.
Green is the most suitable colour to paint them.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

The directions given for the green-house this month are
equally applicable here. The late blooming Chrysanthe-
mums are particularly adapted for rooms. The colours are
so varied, and many of them are dwarf-growing, and even
neat in their habit, especially the new hybrid sorts.

312

ROOMS— OF BULBOUS ROOTS.

OCTOBER.

HAVE a stage or stages, as described last month, in the
situations where they are intended to remain all winter ;
place the plants on them from the first to the eighth of this
month, beginning with the tallest on the top, graduating to
the bottom. It is desirable to place flats or saucers under
each, to prevent the water from falling to the floor, and the
water should be emptied from the flats of all except those
of Cdlla and Hydrangea. The latter, while dormant,
should be kept only a little moist.

Previous to taking in the plants, they should be divested
of every decayed leaf, insects, and all contracted dust, hav-
ing their shoots neatly tied up, and every one in correct
order. Every leaf of the Camellias ought to be sponged,
and the plants placed in an airy exposu're, and from this
period till they begin to grow, have them exposed to the
sun. If the flower buds are too crowded, picking off the
weakest will preserve the remainder in greater perfection,
and prevent them, in part, from falling off. Do not on any
occasion, keep them in a room where there is much fluc-
tuating fire heat, as the flower buds will not expand, except
they are kept in an even temperature. See green-house,
this month, more largely on this subject.

OF BULBOUS ROOTS.

Those that are intended to flower in glasses should be
placed therein this month, and kept in a cool room. After
the fibres begin to push a few shoots, the glasses may be
taken to the warmest apartments to cause them to flower
early. Bring a few from the coldest to the warmest every
two weeks, and thus a succession of bloom may be kept up
from January to March. Hyacinths and other Dutch bulbs
should now be planted in pots. See green-house for full
directions.

Cape Bulbs. All that are unplanted and offering to
grow, should be put in pots forthwith. Ample directions

NOV.'] ROOMS GENERAL OBSERVATIONS, 313

are given for the planting of these in the two preceding
months.

Repot. Riibits rosyfolius, or Bramble-rose. They
should have pots one size larger than those they are now
in. To make them flower profusely, when done blooming
in May, divide them and put only a few stems in one pot,
and repot them in this month, as above directed.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

Any herbaceous plants in the collection ought to be set
aside, and the water in part withheld. When the stems
and foliage are decayed, the plants may be put in a cool
cellar, where they will not be in danger of frost, and be
permitted to remain there until they begin to grow ; then
bring them to the light, and treat as directed for these
kinds of plants. Deciduous pknts may be treated in a
similar manner.

NOVEMBER.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

THE remarks and instructions that are given last month
for these apartments will equally answer here. Where
the Dutch bulbs were omitted to be placed in glasses, they
ought not to be longer delayed.

Oxalis. The autumn-flowering species will now be in
bloom, and must be kept in the sun to make them expand
freely. The neglect of this is the principal reason that
these do not flower perfectly in rooms.

Camellias. These plants, where there is a collection,
flower from this period till April ; and the general desire
to be fully acquainted with the method of their culture has
induced us to be liberal in our observations on every point
and period through the various stages of their growth and
27

314 ROOMS. [Dec.

flowering. We will here only remind the inquirer, that a
pure air and plenty of water, giving the plants frequent
sprinklings, are the present necessities, which only are
conducive to their perfection.

Attend to the turning of Geraniums and other rapidly
growing plants, that all sides of them may have an equal
share of light.

DECEMBER.

As the trying season is now approaching for all plants
that are kept in rooms, especially those that are desired to
have a flourishing aspect through the winter, a few general
instructions (although they may have been previously
advanced) will, perhaps, be desirable to all those who are
engaged in this interesting occupation, which forms a
luxury through the retired hours of a winter season, and
with very little attention many are the beauties of vegeta-
tive nature that will be developed to the gratification of
every reflecting mind. The following is a routine of
every-day culture :

Do not, at any time, admit air (except for a few mo-
ments) while the thermometer is below 35°, exposed in
the shade.

In time of very severe frosts the plants ought to be with-
drawn from the window to the centre of the room during
night.

Never give water until the soil in the pots is inclining to
become dry, except for Hyacinths and other Dutch bulbs
that are in a growing state, which must be liberally sup-
plied.

Destroy all insects as soon as they appear: for the means
of destruction, see next month.

Give a little air every favourable opportunity, (that is,
when the thermometer is above 35°, exposed in the shade,)
by putting up the window one, two, or three inches, accord-
ing to the state of the weather.

Clean the foliage with sponge, and water frequently

Dec.~] ROOMS — ROSES. 315

to remove all dust, &c. The water thus used must not
exceed 80°, but 60° is preferable.

Turn the plants frequently, to prevent them growing to
one side.

Roses of the daily sort may be obtained early by having
them in a warm room, that has a south window, and as
soon as they begin to grow, admit air in small portions
about noon every day that the sun has any effect. Such
must be well supplied with water.

Bulbs in glasses must be supplied with fresh water at
least once a week, in which period they will inhale all the
nutritive gas that they derive from that element, if they
are in a growing state.

Camellias, when in bud and flower, should never be
allowed to become the least dry, neither confined from
fresh air. The effects would be, that the buds would be-
come stinted, dry, and drop off. Therefore, to have these
in perfection, attend strictly to watering. Give frequent
airings, and wash the leaves occasionally with water.
Never keep them in a room where there is a strong coal
fire. The most of Camellias will bear 3° of frost without
the smaHest injury, so that they are easier kept than Gera-
niums, except when they are in bloom. In that state frost
will destroy the flowers. The air of a close cellar is also
destructive to the buds.

The reason that the Camellia does not bloom perfectly
in parlours or other heated rooms, is owing to their being
too warm and arid, destroying the vital vegetative princi-
ple of the plant, and it soon perishes. There is one way
in which these plants can be kept perfect even in such dry
places when the recess in the windows is of sufficient
depth as to allow plants to stand within it, enclosing them
from the apartment by another sash : in such a situation,
water could be placed, which would keep the atmosphere
between the windows perfectly moist. The verdure would
be rich and the flowers brilliant; and they would be com-
pletely protected from dust — the whole would have a very
pleasing effect. Attention will be requisite to give them
air during the mild part of the day. There are several
Camellias not proper for room culture ; those which have
dry brown scaly buds, are to be avoided, such as anemone-
fiora, egertonia, cleviana, fulgens, atrorubens; also avoid

316 ROOMS CAMELLIAS. \_DeC.

woodsii, chandlerii and dorsetia, as being difficult of ex-
panding— they are so very full of petals. Those most
proper for room culture, are double white, conchiflora,
eclipse, jimbriata, florida, imbricata, maliflora, paeoniflora,
punctata, Colvillti, rossii, speciosa, variegata and incar-
nata. Such will be found to bloom freely and fully : many
others might be added, but these will give an idea of those
sorts that agree best with room culture. We cannot con-
clude our subject without giving our readers some hints on
the effect of plants in household apartments. It has been
proved that the leaves of plants absorb carbonic acid gas
by their upper surfaces, and give out oxygen by their under
ones, thereby tending to purify the air in as far as animal
life is concerned, because carbonic acid gas is pernicious
to animals, and oxygen is what that life requires. It is in
the light, however, that these operations are carried on, for
in the dark, plants give out carbonic. It does not appear
that any of the scentless products given out by plants are
injurious to human beings, because those who live among
accumulated plants are not less healthy than others, but
rather enjoy more uninterrupted health, which, of itself, is
a sufficient recommendation for all to spend their leisure
moments in so healthful and rational an employment.

THE

AMERICAN FLOWER GAEDEN
DIRECTORY.

ON THE CULTURE OF THE GRAPE.

WE are not aware of any vegetable production that is
more conducive to the luxurious gratifications and plea-
sures of man than the vine. In fact, there is no fruit so
delicious, applicable to so many purposes, nor any that is
so agreeable to all palates: from the remotest ages the vine
has been celebrated as the emblem of plenty and the
" symbol of happiness." Its quickness of growth, its great
fertility, and astonishing vegetative powers, with its un-
known age, has rendered it one of the most fruitful bless-
ings bestowed by Providence; a blessing which almost
every inhabitant of this union may enjoy, and we see no
occasion to doubt but that thousands of acres of our fertile
uplands will be converted into vineyards, producing the
finest fruits and richest wines in the world. Indeed, with
very little care and attention, our unsightly post and rail
fences may be converted into grape espaliers, and fine
wines produced at as little cost as spruce beer ; every square
foot of surface might be made to produce a pound of
grapes, and every post, at least, round our gardens afford
ample space for one vine, which would yearly produce
from three to nine pounds of fruit, fit either for the table or
the wine-press. But the small space allotted in this volume
will not allow us to dilate on this fruitful subject. Our
object is to give a few hints on the aspect, soil, propaga-
tion, and culture of the vine, so as to produce an extra
27*

318 ON SOIL.

crop in the smallest given space. We will then consider,
first, the '

ASPECT.

As our climate gives us plenty of heat for the matura-
tion of the vine, we have, therefore, more scope in aspect
than any other country. However, the most preferable is
one from south to east, or west. Shelter from high and
often recurring winds is a prime consideration. Our
western and south-western gusts of wind are very de-
structive to the vine when it is in the full vigour of
growth : it dissipates all the accumulated secretions of the
foliage, and closes its pores, thereby totally deranging the
vital functions of the plant, which (although in the height
of the growing season) has been known to be suspended
for weeks. There are frequently many local circum-
stances affecting the shelter of walls and other buildings,
which, where they exist, must determine the best aspect
for training the vine. But if there be no such local cir-
cumstances, we have no hesitation in stating that an east-
ern aspect is the best. On such the sun shines with full
force during the morning, at which time there is something
highly favourable to vegetation in his rays, which seems to
stimulate the energies of plants in an extraordinary degree,
and to excite them to a vigorous exertion of all the func-
tions appertaining to vegetable life.

ON SOIL.

The soil most congenial to the growth of the vine and
the maturity of its fruit is a rich, sandy, turfy loam, about
two feet deep, on a dry, gravelly, rocky, or sandy bottom ;
the roots run with avidity into such sub-soils, lying secure
from the excess of moisture, which always accumulates in
clayey or compact soils. The excrementitious matter dis-
charged from the roots of a vine is very great, and if this
be given out in close and retentive soils, they quickly
become deleterious, and a languid and diseased vegetation
ensues: this is the great reason that so many failures exist.

ON SOIL. 319

It may hence be inferred that vines will not thrive in a
cold wet soil, nor composed of stiff clay, which is easily
accounted for from the fact that they delight only in soils
easily rendered dry by evaporation, and free from excess
of moisture, and are always more warm, which is so genial
to the growth of this plant. To elucidate this, we can
record an instance that occurred a few years ago in this
vicinity : — A vine border was dug out to the depth of three
feet and a half, in a cold retentive clay soil ; twenty inches
of stone, brick, and lime rubbish were put in the bottom,
and the remainder filled up with good compost for the
vines, in which they were planted, and grew well for two
years, and produced some fruit; finally, they languished,
and almost died, and it was at once pronounced that fine
foreign grapes would not do in this country. But, on exa-
mining the roots of the plants, it was discovered that they
were rotten from the excess of moisture which was retained
in this pit ; for though it had been partially filled with a
dry bottom, no provision was made to carry off the water,
therefore it proved to be a complete water pail : a drain
was necessarily dug to th^ full depth to carry off the water,
and the soil generally renewed ; the vines were cut to
within two feet of the ground ; they now (four years after
the operation) grow luxuriantly, and produce abundant
crops every year. Therefore, if the sub-soil is not natu-
rally dry, it must be made so by draining, which is the
basis of the work, filling up the bottom with a sufficient
quantity of dry materials, such as stones broken moderately
small, brick-bats, lumps of lime rubbish, oyster-shells, &c.,
which will keep them dry and warm by the free admis-
sion of air and solar heat, and to admit of heavy rains pass-
ing quickly through without being retained sufficiently
long to saturate the roots or injure the tender extremities;
having thus furnished a dry bottom, cover to the desired
height with turf taken about three inches deep from a rich
pasture ; and to every four loads of turf add one load of
thoroughly decomposed manure, at least one year old, in-
terspersing it with bones of any description, oyster-shells,
or any other enriching material that undergoes slow de-
composition: the whole must be repeatedly turned, and
allowed to settle before the vines are planted. Extreme
caution has to be exercised in administering bone-dust,

320 ON SOIL.

slaughter-house offal, and other over-rich manures, espe-
cially if the vines are to be planted the same or even the
following season. Soils glutted with instant enriching
manures are destructive to the vine. The surface of the
border should have a gentle descent from the wall or fence :
never crop your vine borders, and be careful of treading
much upon them ; a board trellis should be laid for walk-
ing upon when the operation of pruning, tying, &c., takes
place, which is almost daily during summer. The border,
after it has been once made, ought never to be stirred,
except at intervals, to keep it from becoming hard and
impervious to heat or moisture ; and, when necessary, it
should only be forked up about two inches deep, at all
times taking care not to injure the roots.

In dry sandy soils all that is wanted for the full perfec-
tion of the grape is, to take out about one foot of the poorest
of the ground, and replace it by turf from a meadow, adding
thereto a portion of well-decomposed manure. Sweepings
from turnpike roads, where there is much travel, is an ex-
cellent article for incorporating with such soils ; it is of an
enriching quality, its component parts consisting chiefly of
sand, pulverized stones, dung, and urine, which is of a
more lasting nature than can be found in almost any other
compost ; it ought to be thoroughly incorporated with the
other soil soon after it has been collected from the road, as
all its valuable qualities will then be entirely preserved.
The foregoing remarks in the preparation of soil, if fol-
lowed, will ensure the luxuriant growth of vines and the
yearly production of fine crops of grapes, and, when cir-
cumstances will permit, should be practically adopted at
all times. But it must not be supposed that vines will not
grow and mature fine crops unless thus encouraged in
extra prepared soils. Such is not the fact, for vines will
do well in any soil that is not adhesive, and has a dry-
bottom ; but they grow finer and bear greater crops of fruit
within a given space of time, when planted in ground that
has been properly prepared for their reception. For in-
stance, if two cuttings be planted, the one in a soil fully-
prepared, and the other in that of the latter description, it
will be found at the end of three years that the vine in the
former soil is double the size of the latter ; consequently,
the strong vine will produce two-thirds more fruit, and of

ON THE PROPAGATION OF VINES. 321

a better quality, than the weak vine. This difference
occurring every year, and even greater as the age in-
creases, is sufficient to amply repay for all the trouble and
expense incurred in making a suitable compost. How-
ever, the disadvantage of a poor soil may in part be com-
pensated for by planting the vines closer together. If,
indeed, vines could not be planted with any prospect of
success, except in borders purposely prepared, only a very
small quantity of grapes would be grown, compared with
what this rich and fertile country is capable of producing.
Many instances occur in towns and cities, around dwell-
ings and other descriptions of brick and stone erections,
which present very favourable situations for the training of
vines, but which, nevertheless, are so situated as to admit
of little or no soil being placed at their roots. In such
cases, if an opening can be made, twenty inches deep, and
as many wide, it will be sufficient to admit of the roots of
a young vine, which will support it till its rambling roots
have found their way under the pavement, or along the
walls to some more distant nourishment ; if a wider space
can be made, it will, of course, be better: loosen the sides
and bottom as much as possible, and fill up with compost,
as previously directed, and therein plant the vine. The
surface covering, whether of brick or stone, may be re-
placed after the soil has fully settled, leaving a hole about
six inches square to allow the stem of the plant to swell in
its future growth. The roots soon find their way under
the paving or along the foundation walls, and, indeed, in
every direction in search after food, and will extract nou-
rishment from sources apparently barren. The fact is,
that the roots of the vine possess an astonishing power of
adapting themselves to any situation in which they may
be planted, provided it be a dry one.

ON THE PROPAGATION OF VINES.

Vines are generally propagated in the open ground by
cuttings and layers.

By cuttings. At the general pruning provide cuttings
or the preceding summer's growth ; choose such as are of
a medium size, well ripened, and short-jointed, cut them

322 ON THE PROPAGATION OF VINES.

into lengths of about eighteen inches each, leaving at the
ends not less than two inches of wood to protect the eye,
place these temporary cuttings about three-fourths of their
length in the ground, in a warm and sheltered situation,
where they can be protected with a little litter from the
severity of frost during winter. The best time for planting
them is about the 25th of March in this latitude, earlier or
later if more south or north : if intended to plant the cut-
ting where the plant is to remain, which is the most pre-
ferable method, prepare them in the following manner :

By cutting them into lengths of tree buds each, and letting
the uppermost bud have an inch of blank wood remaining
to protect it, the extremity of which must be cut in a slant-
ing manner, and the slanting side opposite to the buds, to
throw off the moisture: the end that is to be inserted in the
ground cut transversely just under the bud, and the cut-
ting will be complete ; the cuttings being thus prepared,
plant them forthwith ; if intended to remain, place two in
each space, inserting them in the ground so as the second
eye may be about half an inch under the soil, which must
be pressed close, when it will, most frequently, be found
that the eye thus placed will grow first and strongest, when
the upper eye can be displaced ; if both the cuttings grow,
cut off the weakest. During May, June, and July, care
must be taken to keep the cuttings constantly moist ; soap-
suds or drainings of the dung-hill can be used for the pur-
pose once a week, but not oftener, using rain or river water
for general waterings. If the soil should sink down and
leave the buds higher than above mentioned, more must be
added to keep them as directed. To prevent the ground
from becoming hard by repeated waterings, and also to
retain a regular moisture about the cutting, cover the soil
with shells, litter, or any such substitute, which will greatly
promote the vegetating powers of the scion. As soon as
they have made shoots six inches long, water may be more
sparingly applied, and the shoots must be carefully tied to
some support, and their tendrils and lateral shoots should
be cut off, the latter to within one eye of the main stem :
about the first of November cut every plant down to within
two eyes of the cutting. But if the plants are intended to
be removed, they should be planted in such a situation as
to be shaded from the mid-day sun ; from four to six hours

ON THE PROPAGATION OF VINES. 323

a day of sun is quite sufficient. A spot sheltered from
severe winds is also most desirable. When transplanted,
be careful of their small roots, and choose a mild day, (about
the first of April, or earlier, is a good season,) for the ope-
ration.

By layers. This is a very expeditious mode of growing
young vines, provided the shoots be laid in pots ; but vines
raised from shoots, laid down in the open ground, should
be avoided as the worst of all plants : they make but few
roots, and, when removed, these nearly all die off from
being cut at the extremities in lifting, and the second year
of such a plant is not much in advance of a good cutting.
To grow vines by laying the shoots in pots, the following
directions, if followed, will ensure success : For each in-
tended layer procure a seven-inch pot, or a small box of a
similar, or even larger size, prepare some fine rich sandy
mould, containing a great portion of decayed leaves, then
take the shoot and run it through the hole in the bottom of
the pot till you come to the last three buds; close up the
aperture round the shoot with moss, cotton, or any elastic
substance, and then fill up the pot or box to within half an
inch of the top with the prepared soil, having previously
secured it in a safe and level position ; and, where it can
be conveniently watered during the season, this must be
attended to at least once a day. When there is not time
for this attendance, the pot or box should be plunged under
ground, and the layer placed thereon, and firmly secured,
so that its own force will not raise it up, then cover up the
shoots at least three inches, leaving space for occasionally
holding some liquid nourishment. Shoots may be thus laid
any time from the first of March to the first of April. It
must be clearly understood that the success of the opera-
tion depends entirely on keeping the mould in the pots
moist, treating it as directed for watering cuttings. The
plant may be separated from the vine about the first of
September, and instantly planted into its desired locality,
or put into a larger vessel, and there remain till planting
season ; the following year displace the tendrils and laterals
as directed for cuttings, and in pruning cut it down to with-
in three eyes of the ground. We may safely assert, that
it is a species of strangling to a vine in the first three years
of its growth, to be sparing of the knife, allowing, at once,

324 ERECTIONS, &C.

small weak shoots to be laid in to form in a day (compara-
tively) a plant that is expected to withstand the vicissitude
of ages, and produce yearly its quantum of fruit ; but more
of this when treating of pruning.

By eyes. This is our most favourite method of propa-
gating plants of this most valuable fruit. Early in the
month of March we cut the shoots into eyes, leaving about
an inch of wood on each extremity, and plant those with
their eyes uppermost into pots, and place them in a hot or
cold frame, prepared for the purpose ; plants from a single
eye may easily be made to grow twelve feet in one season,
by constant repotting and nourishing. The plants thus
growing are decidedly the best rooted, forming more capil-
lary fibres ; consequently more nutritious support to the
vine is absorbed in the same given period of time ; they
also form shorter joints, and are capable of producing more
fruit on a plant of the same size. We are aware that some
start at this idea, and say that in a few years it is not
observed. It reminds us very much of the son of the
"Isle of the Ocean," when asked how old his brother was,
replied, he was so much, but in two years he would be
"the same age." Nevertheless, this method of propagat-
ing may not be generally accessible, the former two plans
being at the command of every one.

ON ERECTIONS FOR THE SUPPORT AND PROTECTION
OF THE VINE IN OUT-DOOR CULTURE.

To limit the proper height for training grapes would be
a preposterous idea, for they can be perfectly cultivated in
this country on any height from four to forty feet : indeed,
on a wall of the former, we have thirty sorts of grapes
growing luxuriantly, and fruiting in the most profuse
manner. Some of the vines, four years old, which have
produced from six to nine bunches of fine fruit, which
only occupy, after pruning, a space of about eighteen
inches square.

Walls of brick are decidedly the most preferable for the
perfection of the grape ; and if they be built for the express
purpose, the most judicious distribution of materials would
be in the erection of several low walls, not more than seven

ERECTIONS, &C. 325

feet high. For the purpose of pruning, training, &c., walls
of this height are far preferable to those of a greater,
and if built to run directly south or north, the entire sur-
face of both sides may be judiciously covered. The
eastern aspect would render a sure and abundant early
crop : those on the western side would not be so productive,
and more liable to be affected by our frequent severe west-
erly gales. When in bloom, or when the fruit is ripening,
would be the period that they would be most liable to suffer.
However, as they would frequently produce a full crop, an
astonishing quantity of fruit may be produced on a very
small space of ground by erecting walls of this description,
built parallel to, and not far distant from, each other — say,
at the nearest, from twenty to twenty-five feet. If from
local causes bricks cannot be had, a good substitute will be
found in strong ranges of plank fencing made of well-sea-
soned wood, and closely jointed, having three or four good
coats of oil paint : grapes raised in this way will be nowise
inferior to those produced on walls : indeed we would pre-
fer such to any wall of stone that could be erected, it being
of a more even surface and more convenient for training,
and not giving harbour for insects, &c. A very great
advantage will be derived by having a coping on the wall
or fence, projecting eight or ten inches, turning on a pivot,
so as it can be used in time of heavy dashing rains while
the vines are in bloom, or when the fruit is ripening, which
are the only periods that it will be of actual service, for all
dews and light rains are indispensable to the health and
maturity of the vine ; and if the fence is north and south,
the light and heat excluded by it would be a serious draw-
back on the ripening of the fruit. We say, therefore, if it
is not on a pivot, the plants will be better without it, unless
it have only one or two inches of a projection, the dripping
from the coping will fall on the foliage, and that will carry it
entirely free from the fruit ; but we urge the great utility and
even necessity for movable coping. Espaliers or trellises
are in common use for the training of the vine, also arbours :
the former suit admirably in small gardens where it is not
desirable to go to expense, but the latter should be avoided
as the worst possible construction for growing grapes ; the
interior is always filled with a current of cold air highly
prejudicial to the maturity of fine fruits; but for coarse
' 28

336 ON TRANSPLANTING THE VINE.

grapes it is a matter of little consequence, as they are at
best only fit for producing shade. Upright trellises in city
gardens mav be made eight feet high, with the spars not
more than six inches apart, and these should be made of
the very best materials, and supported every three, feet by
uprights : strong wire makes an elegant substitute for the
cross slats, which, if kept well painted, will not suffer by
corrosion. We have seen an elegant new erection by a
tasteful grape amateur, and think it will answer a very
good purpose : it consists of an upright double trellis, about
one foot wide at the bottom, tapering to one bar at the top,
running north and south, which is about eight feet high ;
from which, on each side, there is fixed a small projecting
sash at an angle of about 48°, which keeps the vines per-
fectly secure from deluging rains, and even concentrates
more solar heat for their maturity. The whole has a light
and rather imposing effect ; its practical utility remains to
be tried, as it is but lately finished : there is no apparent
doubt but it will prove very beneficial in its results.

ON TRANSPLANTING THE VINE.

The best period of the year for transplanting is during
the months of October or March. The longer its removal
is postponed after these periods, the more injurious will be
the effects of transplanting. Admitting the ground has
been prepared according to directions formerly given, dig
a hole about twenty inches deep, and as wide as will admit
of the roots, if possible, to their full extension, without crip-
pling in any manner. If any of them are injured in lift-
ing, they must be cut back to soundness : fill up the hole
to within twelve inches of the top, set the vine in the hole
thus made, with its stem about six inches from the wall or
fence, and let the plant be cut even with the ground, or,
where there is plenty of space, and the plant two or more
feet long, plant the root at a distance from where the stem
of the vine is desired, and then disbud the young shoot,
except the uppermost three, lay it down its full length,
bringing the terminal buds to where the plant is wanted;
by this method the whole extent of the shoot will make
roots, and be of infinite service for the farther growth and

ON PRUNING. 337

, *

support of the plant. When the eyes thus left grow,
displace the weakest two, leaving the strongest for the
permanent plant. We have seen old vines laid down in.
this manner for the distance of thirty feet, and, in two
years, formed plants of most astonishing vigour and pro-
duction. If the vine has been grown in a pot, shake the
ball of earth from the roots, among which place, with care,
new and fresh soil, taking the plant and giving it several
shakes to settle it well about the roots, which will encou-
rage the plant to put forth new roots for its farther support.
Transplanting should always be done in dry and mild
weather, and when the soil is mellow and free. During
the removal the roots must be carefully kept from expo-
sure ; the atmosphere would dry up their tender extremi-
ties, and cause much injury ; and, when vines are brought
from a distance, this precaution ought to be carefully put
in practice. Its first season's growth should be confined
to one stem only, carefully cutting off all lateral shoots
within one eye of the main shoot, as directed on the sub-
ject of propagation.

ON PRUNING.

The first year's growth of a transplanted vine should, in
November, be cut down within four inches of the ground,
and, on the appearance, cover the plant with about three
inches of stable litter, allowing it to remain in this state till
the middle of March. The plant will now push strongly,
and two of the best shoots should be trained their full length
during summer, carefully nipping off tendrils and laterals,
and, at all times, securing the shoots from the effects of
high winds. If walls are used for training, there should
be slats fixed about one inch from the wall to tie the shoots
thereto, using soft material for the purpose of tying : if the
vines should show fruit, cut it off.

Having the previous season retained two well-grown
shoots from near the surface of the ground, you will now,
in November, tie these in a horizontal position, about six
or eight inches above the surface, cutting them at nearly
two feet distance from the main stem. In the following
month, February, when the weather is mild, displace

olio , ON PRUNING.

every alternate bud, observing that it is those on the under
side of the shoot. If every thing has been attended to in
soil, planting, and pruning that we have advanced, there
may be expected to arise four shoots from each of these
horizontal branches, which, if any show fruit, it must be
cut off: these young shoots must be trained upright during
summer, being careful to displace every other as they
appear. Some approve of training these young upright
shoots in a serpentine form, which, in our opinion at pre-
sent, is of little consequence ; but top them about the end of
August, or earlier if they are to the desired height. In
November of the third summer's growth, you may now
prune for fruit as above stated. Your horizontal branches
will have fully matured four luxuriant upright shoots. Cut
two of these "alternately within one eye of the horizontal
shoot, which will produce wood to be fruited the following
year, and lay in the other two, in a serpentine form for
fruit, to about three feet in length. The vine has now
assumed the form in which it is permanently to remain,
and it may be considered as the foundation of a system of
alternately fruiting four shoots, and training four out their
full length every year, which method may be continued
every year without any alteration. After several years, if
it is thought proper, the arms may be lengthened by the
training in of a shoot at their extremities, and managing it
in the same manner as when the arms were first formed ;
but it is not advisable that the branches should be far ex-
tended, which would ultimately prove injurious to those
branches arising from the bosom of the vine. This system
of pruning and training the vine we do not advocate as
something new or original, but one which we have seen
in full and successful practice twenty years ago. By pro-
curing well-grown plants in pots, one year may be gained
on the above calculation ; for you can prune, and at once
take two shoots to prepare for laying the foundation of
your future plant ; but more than this cannot be accom-
plished. We are aware that many of our readers are
already startled at this tedious method of fruiting vines,
and have almost concluded to have fruit the first year or
none. Such are too frequently the conclusions of many;
but, as sure as they practice it, they as invariably meet
with a failure, and that in a very few years. The practice

ON PRUNING. 339

of training vines to get them up to the top of arbours, &c.,
cannot be done with fine vines without risk. As we have
already said, it may and will da with our native kinds, but
no other. The general system of spur-pruning has many
advantages in in-door culture, but does not at all agree
with growing grapes in the open air. Our limits do not
admit of giving in detail our reasons for so saying, but
those who doubt may go on in the old way, giving the
system herein advised a trial, with one plant only, and we
guarantee that in less than five years their old vines are
headed down to the stump, to begin on a system that yearly
renews itself, and can be perpetuated for ages on the same
vine, which may be said to " renew its youth every year."
In fact, it recommends itself by simplicity — by the small
number of wounds annually made — by the clear and hand-
some appearance of the vine, and by the great ease with
which it is managed — its occupying but a small space.
We therefore conclude this subject with the following few
general rules : Use a knife of the best description, and let
it be perfectly sharp ; cut always upward and in a sloping
direction, always leave about an inch of blank wood beyond
a terminal bud, and let the cut be on the opposite side of
the bud. In pruning out an old branch, cut it even with
the parent limb, that the wound may quickly heal. Never
prune in frosty weather, nor in the months of March,
April, or May. Let the general fall pruning take place
about the end of October or first of November; after which,
stir up the ground, and let a good coating of fresh stable
manure be laid thereon, which will both protect the roots
that are near the surface, and also enrich the soil; but if
stable manure cannot be procured, leaves from the woods
are an excellent substitute, which, after decomposition,
form a vegetable manure very enriching, and one very
congenial to the vine; this being done, nothing more is
required till the first of March, when the roughest must be
removed, and the decomposed particles forked into the
borders. It may be proper to state, that in more northern
latitudes and greater altitudes than Philadelphia, it will be
necessary to lay down the vines after pruning, during
winter, and give them a light covering of litter, straw,
leaves, or mats, which will completely protect them from
the severest frost ; although it is not altogether the severity
28*

330 ON MANURE.

that destroys, but the alternate frost and sun acting on the
plant every twenty -four hours, which overcomes the vitality
of the plant ; and another fell-destroyer is, \vhen we have
a mild February and a severe March. When such occurs,
which is but rarely, the vines must all be protected by mats
while there is danger.

ON MANURE.

This subject has been very recently indulged in to a
destructive extent. We could record instances of soils
strongly impregnated with very enriching manures, being
almost death to the plant; very rich soils are adhesive and
retentive of moisture, which is destruction to the roots of
the vine. The celebrated Brassin, conductor of the royal
vinery of France, used to practise enriching his vine bor-
ders with exciting manures : he now finds that cleansing
of ditches, grass-turf, and road sweepings, mixed well
together and allowed to ferment for a year, is far prefera-
ble. He now uses it entirely as an annual dressing ; but,
in our opinion, this cannot be continued for any length of
time, unless the border is also yearly reduced; conse-
quently, manures that are of slow decomposition are pre-
ferable, and nothing that we are acquainted with excels
bones of every description ; but these are not always at
hand in quantity. When to be • obtained, they should
always be put to a good purpose — an annual winter top-
dressing of manure of a few inches, and the roughest re-
moved in the spring, digging in the remainder not over
four inches deep, which will encourage the roots to the
surface, where they will be greatly benefited by solar heat
and air. Liquid manures are highly valuable where im-
mediate effect is required : they contain all the soluble
parts of manure in such a state as to admit of being taken
up by the plant as soon as applied. These are urine, which
may be used pure any time from the first of November to
February when the ground is not frozen ; but if used at
any other period, must be diluted with its equal quantity
of water. Drainings of manure-heaps and soap-suds can
be used at all times, but not too frequently. Soot dissolved
in water, in the proportion of one to twelve, is an exceed-

DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUE, &C. 3&1

ingly strong manure, and very stimulating ; Guano dis-
solved in water at the rate of 20 Ibs. to 100 gallons is a first
rate manure ; where great growth is required, they maybe
safely watered once a week, during the growing season,
with the enriched liquid ; but all these exciting manures
must be cautiously applied, as excess is very injurious to
the fertility of the vine ; and although one of the grossest
feeders in nature, even possessing the appetite of a glut-
ton, it can be satiated and destroyed.

DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUE OF GRAPES MOST SUIT-
ABLE FOR OPEN AIR CULTURE.

Golden Chasselas, Chasselas de Fontainbleau,
boyce, or Royal Muscadine. Bunches medium size, with
very small shoulders, berries of a moderate size, round
when ripe, turning to a bright amber colour, having a thin
skin, a soft flesh, and a rich juice. This is an exceedingly
fine grape, a free bearer, is very hardy, and ripens early ;
it may be considered one of the best white grapes for out-
door culture.

White Chasselas or WJiite Muscadine. Bunches medium
size, shouldered, and well formed. Berries round and of a
good size, juicy, rich, and well flavoured ; it ripens about
the middle or toward the end of September, and is an ex-
cellent hardy grape,. and fully equal to the former. We
consider this grape the same as the Malmsey Muscadine.

Wliite Sweet Water, (early.) Bunches rather large ;
berries of a good size, round, of a white colour, and, when
perfectly ripe, especially when exposed, they are shaded
with a light russet colour ; they grow close on the bunches,
and when desired to have large berries, the bunches must
be well thinned, the juice very saccharine and luscious.
We consider this the very best white grape for walls ; it is
an excellent bearer, makes good short-jointed wood, and is
very early. We have had it perfectly ripe on a south
wall the first day of September.

Wliite, Muscat of Alexandria, Jerusalem Muscat, Ma-
laga. Bunches large, but short and well shouldered ; ber-
ries large, oval, and, when perfectly ripe, (which will not
be till October), are of a pale amber colour, often without

332 DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUE, &C.

stones, skin rather thick, the flesh firm, juice not plentiful,
but of a sweet, highly musky, delicious and peculiar fla-
vour. It is an extra fine grape, and requires a warm situ-
ation. It does not bear so freely as the former two.

White Frontignac or Frontignan. Bunches long and
narrow, without shoulders, rather closely set, of a dull
white or greenish yellow, and covered with a powdering
bloom, juice very sugary and rich, with a delightful spicy
flavour. It ripens in September, and delights in a dry
soil.

White Hamburg, White Lisbon, White Portugal.
Bunches very large, short, and loosely formed: berries
large and oval, skin thick, of a greenish white colour, flesh
firm, juice sweet, slightly mixed with acid, one of our latest
white grapes. The plant is of a strong robust habit, and
an excellent bearer.

.Austrian Muscat. Bunches large and tapering : berries
round, of a russet white colour, skin thin, juice rich and
musky, and of excellent flavour. It ripens about the second
week of September, and is an excellent bearer.

Black Frontignac, Violet Frontignac, Muscat Noir.
Bunches small and short: berries round, and grow close in
bunches, skin black, covered with a fine light bloom, flesh
tender and juicy, of a rich vinous spicy flavour.

Black Hamburg. Bunches tolerably large, with short
compact shoulders, tapering to a point : berries large, of an
oval form, skin rather thick, very nearly black, and covered
with a blue bloom ; flesh tender, sweet, and of a rich vinous
flavour : ripens about the first of October, but will hang on
the vine till frost. This is, in every respect, one of the
finest black grapes that can be grown in the open air : it is
also a constant bearer. The leaves in the fall are mottled
with green and yellow.

Black Prince. Bunches rather long and generally
shouldered : berries oval, and of a good size, skin rather
thick, of a dark purple, and covered with a thick bloom;
flesh white, sweet, juicy and well flavoured: ripe about the
first of October.

Black Lombardy, West's St. Peter's. Bunches long
and well shouldered : berries large, round, and of a regu-
lar size ; skin thin and very black, juice plentiful and of a

DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUE, &C. 333

very high flavour ; is perfectly ripe about the middle of
October, and will keep on the vines till frost.

Black Muscadine, Black Chasselas, Violet Chasselas.
Bunches about the size and shape of the Golden Chasse-
las : berries perfectly round and covered with a blue bloom :
flesh juicy and of a very rich flavour : ripens about the
first of October.

Frankendale. Bunches large, with small shoulders, and
rather longer than the Black Hamburg : berries round and
closely set ; skin deep purple, approaching to black, cover-
ed with a thin blue bloom ; flesh tender, sweet, rich, and of
a luscious flavour : it is a great bearer, and fully ripe about
the end of September or first of October.

Grizzly Frontignac, Muscat Gris. Bunches of a me-
dium size, with small shoulders: berries round, of a light
brown colour, intermixed with red and yellow ; the juice
is exceedingly rich, and possesses a high spicy flavour: it
ripens about the middle of September.

Hansteretto. Bunches large and well formed: berries
also large and perfectly round, of a jet black colour when
perfectly ripe; flesh rather juicy and of a rich flavour;
leaves deeply lobed and a little downy underneath. An
excellent hardy grape, but inferior in quality to the Black
Hamburg : ripe about the first of October.

GENERAL INDEX.

Acacia, 151, 203.

A'rbutus, 207.

Achimenes, 204.

Ardisia, 151.

Acmadenia, 233.

Areca, 152.

Aconitum, 36.

Aristol6chia, 83, 152.

Adams' Needle, 47.

Asclepias, 27, 36.

Adenandra, 233.

A'ster, 27, 207.

Adonis, 30, 35.

Astrapae'a, 152.

Ethiopian Lily, 283.

Aucuba, 207.

^Eschynanthus, 151.
Agapanthus, 203.

Auricula. 17.
, character of an, 91.

Agathosma, 233.

Azalea, 208.

Ageratum,27.

Agrostemma, 34.

Babiana, 287.

Air plants, 187.

Balsamina, 27.

Allspice tree, 161.

Bamboo cane, 152.

Aloe, 204, 276.

Bambusa, 152.

AlonsSa, 204.

Banana tree, 148.

Aloysia, 205.

Banisteria, 153.

Alplnia, 145.

Banksia, 209.

Alstroemeria, 205.

Barbadoes cherry, 169.

Althae'a, 19, 34.

— — — gooseberry, 158.

Amary'llis, 111,148,205.

Barkpit, 136.

Amaranthus, 30.

BarSsma, 209.

American cowslip, 39.

Barringtdnia, 153.

Am&mum, 145.

Beaumontia, 153.

Amm6charis, 211.

Beauf6rtia, 209.

Am6rpha, 19.

Begdnia, 209.

Ampel6psis, 86.

Bellis, 36.

Anagallis, 27.

Bellad6nna, 96.

Anemdne, 18, 35, 111, 291.

Benthamia, 210.'

, of planting, 121.

Bergamotte, 229.

Aniseseed tree, 244.

Bign6nia, 85.

Annuals, list of, 27.

Bindweed, 30.

hardy nD

Birthwort 83 152.

Anthericum, 36.

Bletia, 153, 210.

Antirrhinum, 34.

Bordnia, 210.

Aotus, 207.

Bouvardia, 210.

A'picra, 277.

Bottle brush plant, 250.

Araucaria, 207.

Brachysema, 210.

A'rbor Vltte, 98.

Brachyc6me, 30.

336

GENERAL INDEX.

Bramble rose, 313.

Chamae'rops, 277.

Brassia, 188.

Cheiranthus, 34, 37.

Br6wnia, 153.

Cheldne, 37.

Browallia, 27.

Chile Jasmine, 170.

Brunsfelsia, 154.

Chinese Hybrid Roses, 62.

Brunsvigia, 211.

Primrose, 292.

Brngmansia, 30, 211.

Pink, 27.

Brtmia,211.

Chorizema, 228.

Budding Roses, 114.

Chrysanthemum, 37.

Buddlea, 154.

Chryseis, 31.

Bonapartea, 154.

Cineraria, 228.

Btiphone,211,

Cinnamomum, 228.

Burchellia, 212.

Cistern of water, 185.

Cistus, 228.

Cabbage tree, 152.

Citrus, 229.

Cachlia, 27.

Clarkia, 27.

Cactus, 155.

Clematis, 38, 83, 229.

, graaing of, 138.

Cleome,27.

Calathea, 154.

Clerodendrum, 159, 229.

Calandrinia, 27.

Ciethra, 230.

Calceolaria, 212.

Clianthus, 230.

Calla, 283.

Clivea, 230.

CalliSpsis, 31.

Clintonia, 27.

Callicoma,212.

Clove tree, 158.

Caltha, 36.

Cobrea, 230

Calothamnus, 212.

Coffea, 159.

Camellia, list of, 213.

Coffee tree, 159.

in rooms, 315.

Colchicum, 111.

Campanula, 17, 34, 37.

Collinsia, 27, 30.

Camphor tree, 228, 246.

Collomia, 31.

Canary-bird flower, 28.

Colutea, 19.

Candytuft, 31.

Combretum, 159.

Canna, 145, 154.

Commelina, 27.

Cantua, 34.

Convolvulus, 30.

Myrtles, 250.

Coreopsis, 38.

Jasmine, 163.

Corn flag, 287.

Carfssa, 158.

Coronilla, 231.

Carmichaelia, 227.

Coral Plant, 162, 238.

Carnation, 17.

Corrcea, 231.
C6rvnha 159

' on 'ayin£' ll*' iin

Crassula 231

Carolina Jasmine, 261.

Crataevgus, 232.

Carydta, 158.

Crinum, 160, 232.

Caryoph'yllus, 158.
Cassada root, 168.

Crdcus, 111, 121.
Croton, 160.

Catasetum, 188.

Crdwea, 232.

Catchfly, 35.

Curcuma, 145.

Cattleya, 188.

Cyvcas, 160.

Ceanothus, 227.

Cy'clamen, 283.

Celosia, 27.

Cypripedium, 160.

Centranthus, 47.

Cypress vine, 31.

Centaurea, 27, 30.

Cyrtanthus, 233.

Cerbera, 158.

Cyrtoceras, 161.

Cereus, lbf>.

CyHisus, 19.

Ceropegia, 158.

GENERAL INDEX.

337

Dahlia, history of, 100. ! Eucalyptus, 238.
propagation of, 101. Encomia, 195.

list of, 104.

Eugenia, 161.

character of, 107.

Euonymus, 239.

on lifting the, 127.

Eupatfirium, 40, 239.

Daisv, 17, 36, 49.

Euphorbia, 162.

Dam'piera, 233. Eutaxia, 239.

Daphne, 291. Evergreen shrubs, of planting, 87.

Date Palm, 173, 256. Evening Primrose, 35.

Davifesia, 233. Everlasting, 241.

Day Lily, 41.

Delphinium, 31, 38.

Fabiana, 241.

Dendrobium, 188.

Fair eye, 31.

Dianthus, 27, 34, 39

Fan Palm, 159.

Dictamnus, 39.

Ferraria, 196.

Digitalis, 34, 40.

Ficus, 163, 239.

Dillw/nia, 233.

Fig tree, 163.

DionoeX 145.

Flos Adonis, 30.

Diosma, 233.

Flower Garden, on laying out a,

Diplacus, 234.

13.

Dodecatheon, 39.

Flower de luce, 41.

Double rocket, 17.

Flues, on constructing, 133.

\Vall flower IS

Foxglove 34 40.

Datyanthes, 234.

Franclscea, 163.

Dracoexna, 161, 234.

Fritillaria, 111, 117.

Dracocephalum, 40.
Dragon's Head, 40.

Framing of, 17, 25.
French Honeysuckle, 35.

Dragon tree, 161, 234.

Fraxinella, 39.

Dropvvort, 46.

Fuchsia, 240.

Dryandra, 234.

Funkia, 40.

Dutchman's Pipe, 83.

Furnace, on constructing, 133.

D'yckia, 235.

i

Gardenia, 163, 277.

Echeveria, 235.

Gardoquia, 241.

Echinocactus, 155.

Gasteria, 277.

Edgings of various plants, 58.

Gazania, 241.

Edwardsia, 235.

Geissomeria, 164.

Elephant's foot, 262.

Gelsemium, 241.

Elichryvsum, 235.

Gentiana, 40.

Embothrium, 262.

Genista, 19,241.

Enarching, 268.

Gerardia, 35.

Enkianthus, 235.

Gesneria, 146, 148.

Entelea, 260.

Geum, 41.

Epac'ris, 235.

Gilia, 31.

Epidendrum, 188.
Epiphyllum, 157.

Gladiolus, 95, 195, 287.
Glass-roof, angle of, 136.

Eranthemum, 161.

GloriSsa, 146.

Erica, 236.

Glory flower, 230.

list of, 237.

Gloxinia, 146, 148.

Eriobotrya, 238.

Gl/cine, 85.

Er&dium, 238.

Gnaphalium,241.

Erythrina, 128, 162,238.

Gongora, 188.

Ery'simum, 31.

Gomphrena, 27.

Escalldnia, 238.

Gorteria, 241.

Eschscholtzia, 31.

Grafting, 59.

29

GENERAL INDEX

Grape vine, culture of, 317.

Ipomffiva, 31, 165.

p^J1!!!?' ^on •

Iris 41 111 122.

lict of 331

Irish Ivy 85.'

Green-house, on erecting, 191.

Ismene, 165.

I\ia 195 288

Grevlllea, 242.

Ix&r'a, 166.

Grove love, 31.

Gum elastic tree, 240.

Jacksdnia, 245.

Guano, 56, 331.

Jacobcea Lily, 96.

Jambdsa, 166, 245.

Habranthus, 242.

Japan day lily, 40.

Hawkweed, 31.

Jasmine, 86, 167.

HawOrthia, 277.

Jasminum, 86, 167, 245.

Heart's-ease, 32.

Jatropha, 167.

' culture of 93

Jonouil 111 122

Junioerus 198

Hedera, 85.

Justicia, 16S, 245.

Hedy'sarum; 35.'
Hedy'chium, 145.

Kffimpferia, 145.

Helianthus, 31.

Kalosanthes, 231.

Helicdnia, 164.

Kennedia, 245.

Helichry'sum, 27, 242.

Heliophila, 31.

Lachenalia, 195, 284.

Heliotrdpium, 164.

Ladies' slipper, 27.

Hemerocillis, 40, 41.

Lagerstrcemia, 271.

Hemlmeris, 204.

Lambertia, 246.

Hemlock spruce, 98.

Lantana, 168.

Heritiera, 164.

Lasiopetalum, 246.

Heron's bill, 238.

Lathyrus, 31.

Hibbertia, 243.

Latania, 168.

Hibiscus, 27, 41, 164.

Laurus, 169, 246.

Hieracium, 31.

Laurestinus, 266.

Holly, 244.

Lavandula, 246.

Hollyhock, 34.

Lavender, 246.

Honeysuckle, 86.

Lechenaultia, 247.

Hottentot's bread, 262.

Leadwort, 257.

Hdvea, 243.

Leonotis, 247.

H6ya, 161, 165.

Leptospermum, 247.

Hnmea, 35.

Leptosiphon, 31.

Hyacinth, 122.

Leucadendron, 247.

-_ A _?u~- U..IU- a t

Li<itris 42

Hybrid Roses, list of, 62.

Lilium' 122, 288.

H'ydrangea, 243.

Lily, 288.

Hypericum, 243.

Linum, 248.

Lions' ear, 247.

Ibe'ris, 31.

Liparia, 248.

Ice Plant, 28.

Loasa, 28, 31.

Ilex, 244.

Lobelia, 248.

Illicium, 244.

London Pride, 45.

Indigofera, 244.

Looking-glass plant, 164.

Indigo tree, 244.

Lonlcera, 86, 248.

Insects, destruction of, 139.

Lophospermum, 27, 248.

Imhdfia, 211.

Love HPR bleeding, 30.

OENKRAL 1NDLX.

Loquat, 238.

Olive, 251.

Lupinus, 31.

Oncfdium, 188.

Lychnis, 42, 249.

Opnntia, 157.

Lunaria, 35.

Orchideous plants, 187.

Lysinem, 249.

Ornithogalum, 284.

LyHhrum, 42.

O'xalis, 284, 288.

Oxyldbium, 252.

Manglfera, 169.

Magndlia, 249.

Pachidendron, 277.

Mahogany tree, 175.

Pffidnia, 292.

Maldpe, 28, 31.

Pjeony, list of, 122.

Malplghia, 169.

Pancratium, 172.

Mammillaria, 155.

Pandanus, 172.

Mandevilla, 170.

Pansy, 32.

Manettia, 249.

Papaver, 32, 35.

Mango tree, 169.

Passifldra, 86, 172, 252.

Marvel of Peru, 31.

Passion vine, 172, 252.

Marica, 170.

Pelargonium, 252, 254.

Mauraudia, 28.

Pentstemon, 17.

Mastich tree, 256.

Pereskia, 157.

Mathiola, 28, 43.

Periploca, 85.

Maxillaria, 188.

Periwinkle, 29.

Melalenca, 249.

Persoonia, 255.

Melastoma, 170, 250.

Petunia, 28.

Melocactus, 155.

Phaseolus, 256.

Menziesia, 250.

Phlox, 32, 43.

Mesembryanthemum, 28, 277.

Photinia, 232.

Mespilus, 238.

Phxylica, 256.

Metrosideros, 250.

Physic nut, 167.

Mexican Lily, 205.

Pho3xnix, 173, 256.

Mignonette, 32.

Phormium, 256.

Mimosa, 28.

Phry^nium, 145.

Mirabilis, 31.

Pimelea, 256.

M'imulus, 28, 42.

Pimpernel, 27.

Monarda, 42.

Pinks, 17, 112.

Monkey flower, 28, 42.

Pinus, 98.

Mnsa, 148, 171.

Pistacia, 256.

Musk scabious, 35.

Pitcher plant, 171.

M'yrsine, 250.

Pitt6sporum, 257.

Myvrtus, 171, 250.

Plantain tree, 171.

Myrtle, 250.

Platylobium, 257.

Nandina, 251.

Plumbago, 173, 257.
Plumieria, 173.

Narcissus, 123.
Nasturtium, 29.

PodalyVia, 257.
Poinsettia, 173.

Neapolitan violet, 47.

Poivrea, 159.

Nemdphila, 31.

Polyanthus, 17, 92.

Nepenthes, 171.

Polyxspora, 174.

Nerium, 176, 251.

Potentllla, 45.

New Zealand flax, 256.

Portulaca, 28.

Norfolk Island Pine, 207.

Primrose, 44, 49.

u

Prince's Feather, 30.

(E'nothera, 32, 35, 43.

Primula, 44, 292.

(Tlea, 251.

Prdtea, 257.

Oleander, 251.

Pruning, IS, 19.

340

GENKRAL INDEX.

Pterospermum, 174.

Saxifraga, 45.

Pulteno/a, 258.

Scabiosa, 35.

Schizanthus, 28.

Queen Margaret, 27.

Scottia, 259.

plant °61

Screw Pinf* 172.

Senecio, 259.

Ragged Robin, 42.

Sensitive Plant, 28.

Ranunculus, 18, 111.

Shrubs, of planting, 21.

Shortia 28

Red cedar, 98.

Shutters of, 186.

spider, 140.

Silene, 35, 45.

Renanthera, 188.

Silk vine, 85.

Reseda,"32.

Silver tree, 247.

Rhapis, 174.

Snail flower, 256.

Rhododendron, 258.

Snapdragon, 34, 35.

Rhodochiton, 258.

Sollva, 260.

Rhus, 19.

Solandra, 175.

Richardia, 283.

Spar'mannia, 260.

Rhipidodendron, 277.

Sparaxis, 289.

Robinia, 19.

Speedwell, 46.

Rochea, 231.

Sphserolobium, 260.

Rocket Larkspur, 31.

Spiderwort, 177.

Rock rose, 228.

Spirvaea, 46.

Roella, 259.
Rondeletia, 174.

Spurge Laurel, 292.
Spreikelia, 96.

Rooms, treatment of plants in,

Sprengelia, 260.

298.

Stanhopea, 188.

Rose campion, 34.

Star of Bethlehem, 284.

Rosemary, 266.

St. Barnos Lily, 36.

Rose tree, 258.

St. Johnswort, 243.

Roses, budding, 114.

Statice, 46.

Chinese, or Bengal ever-

Sterculia, 291.

blooming, 69.

Sternbergia, 111.

climbing, 78.

Stephanotus, 175.

of grafting, 66.

Stock Gilly, 17. 28, 43.

^— hardy garden list of, 51.

Stork's bill, 252.

hybrid, list of, 62.

StrelUzia, 175, 261.

1 isle de Bourbon, o7.

Streptocarpus, 261.
Strawberry tree, 207.

microph} Ha, °^-

noisette, 75.

Stylfdium? 261.
Styphelia, 261.

odorata, or tea, 72.

Summer Heliotrope^ 32.

S,,ii, ...-I/ ,,/!;-, OAI

perpetual, DO.

utnerlanclia,j ^ol.

Rnbus, 313.

Swainsdnia, 261.
Sweet William, 34.

Ruellia, 175.

Sultan, 27, 30.

Russelia, 175.

Pea, 31.

Swietenia, 175.

Sage, 259.

Sword Lily, 95.

Sago Palm, 160.

Sagus, 175.

Tabernasmontana, 176.

Salvia, 259.

Tacsonia, 264.

Salpiglossis, 28.

Tagetes, 28.

Saponaria, 45.

Tea Plant, 262.

Sashes, of, 136.

Tccoma, 85, 176, 262.

GENERAL INDEX.

341

Telopea, 262.
Testudinaria, 262.
Thea, 262.
Thomasia, 246.
Thrift, 46.
Thrinax, 176.
Thnja, 98.

Thunbergia, 29, 176.
Tiger flower, 96.
Tigrfdia, 96.
Tournefortia, 32.
Tradescantia, 177.
Tree Primrose, 32.

Pseony, 292.

Tritdnia, 289.

Trollius, 46.

TropffiVum, 28, 29, 266.

Tuberose, 92.

Tulip, of planting the, 124.

Valeriana, 47.
Variegated Euphorbia, 31.
Vanda, 188.
Venus' Paint Brush, 27.
Venus' FJy-trap, 145.
Verbena, 29, 265.

Veronica, 46, 266.

Viburnum, 19, 266.

Viminaria, 266.

Vinca, 29.

Viola, 32, 47.

Virgin's Bower, 38, 83, 84, 229.

Volkameria, 229.

Wachendorfia, 195.
Wall flower, 34.
Wax pi ant, 161, 165.
Westringia, 266.
Wind flower, 35.
Wistaria, 85.
Witsenia, 267.
Wolf's-bane, 36.

Xeranthemum, 27.
Yucca, 49, 267.

Zamia, 267.
Zebra plant, 154.
Zingiber, 145.
Zinnia, 29.
Zygopetalum, 188.

89*

LIST OP HARDY SHRUBS.

SEE PAGE 56.

Those marked thus*, require protection in witner. and those marked
thus^f, shade during summer.

AMORFHA, Bastard indigo.

Dutzia scabra,

red, white and

fruticdsa, shrubby. .

purple.

AMY'GDALUS, Almond,
nana, dwarf.

EUONYMUS,
japonica,

Japan Burning

pumlia, double-flowering.

argentea,

silver edged.

aersica, peach-leaved.

GOHD'ONIA,

Franklinia.

ANDROMEDA,

pubescensj

downy.

all the species.

HALESIA,

snow flake.

AZ'ZALEA, American honey-

diptera,

winged do.

suckle.

tetraptera.

all the hardy species.

HIBISCUS,

Althaea.

AUCU'BA, Gold tree.

syriacus,

Althaea frutax.

tjaponica, Japan.

var. var.

B'ERBERIS,

HYDRANGEA,

all the species.

all the varieti

38.

Bu'xus, Box tree.

t* hortensis,

garden.

two species.
CALYc'jtNtHus,, Sweet-scented

HYPERICCM,
kalmianum,

profuse flowered
St. Johnswort.

shrub.

ILEX,

Holly.

fioridus, purple-flowered.

var. var.

}>recdx,

JASMVINUM,

Jasmine.

var. var. early.

fruticans,

shrubby.

CASTI'NEA, Chestnut-tree.

officinale,

climbing white.

pumila, dwarf.

JUNIPVERUS,

Juniper.

CE'RCIS, Judas tree.

suecica,

Swedish.

canadensis,

virgfnicus,

Virginian.

CHIONA'NTHUS. Fringe tree.

KA'LMIA,

American laurel.

virglnica, common.

glauca,

glaucous.

CLE'THRA,

latifolia,

broad-leaved.

all the hardy species.
CORNUS, Dogwood.

KCEUTREUTERIA,

paniculata.

yellow-flowered.

florida, large flowered.

LAVURUS,

Laurel.

sangninea, bloody.

nobilis,

sweet-bay.

Crat'aegus,

var. var.

several species.

LAVEND^ULA,

Lavender.

Cotoneaster,

splca,

spike-flowered.

all are fine.

MAGN\>LIA,

Cy'tisus,

purpftrea,

purple.

all the species.

K6bus,

slender.

DA'PHNE,

grdcilis,

mezerium, red.

grandifldra,

large-flowered.

var. var. white flowering,

var. var.

fine.

Thomsoniana,

hybrid.

344

LIST OF HARDY SHRUBS.

consplcua,

zoulan. h^ybrida,

mountain ash — a

soulangeana,

hybrid.

beautiful shrub.

PHILADVELPHUS,

mock-orange.

SPIR\EA,

grandifldra,

large-flowered.

tomenfosa,

tomentose.

mana,

dwarf.

bella,

red-flowered.

variegatus,

variegated.

frutex, &c.

showy.

PINUS,

Pine or Fir tree.

SYMPHVORA,

Snow-berry.

balsimea,

balm of Gilead.

racemxosa,

white-berried.

PINCKNE'YA,

Georgia bark tree.

glomerata,

red-berried.

pfrbens,

downy.

SyiOlNGA,

Lilac.

PRU'NUS,

Cherry.

all the species

* lusitanica,

Portugal laurel.

TA'MARIX,

* laurocerasus

, English laurel.

Germanica,

Tamarisk tree.

P^YRUS,

TAXVUS,

Yew.

all are very fi

ne.

bacckta,

RHODODE'NDRON

, Rose-bay.

hibcrnica,

a handsome erect,

catawbiense,

Catawba.

growing ever-

da&ricum,

daurian.

green.

var. var.

THUXJA,

arbor-vita?.

ponticum,

pink.

occidentalis,

American.

var. var.

orienta'lis,

Chinese.

maximum,

common.

THUJA,

Norway arbor-

RnVs,

Sumach.

plicata,

vita.

cotinus,

mist tree.

THILLIA,

Lime or Linden

Rl^BES,

tree.

aureum,

fragrant.

parvifolia,

small-leaved.

sangulneum,

bloody.

coccfnea,

scarlet.

ROBINIA,

Locust tree.

VIBURNUM,

hispida,

rose-acacia.

opnlus,

guelder-rose.

SHEPHERDIA,

buffalo-berry.

var.

argentea,

rosea,

rose-coloured.

SORBUS,

*

LIST OF VERONICAS.

SEE PAGE 46.

VERONICA,

Sweed-well.

incarnata,

flesh-coloured.

officinalis,

officinal i

carnea,

pale red.

chamxsedrys,

Germander.

leucantha,

white flowered.

media,

long-spiked.

bellidioldes,

daisy-leaved.

incana,

hoary.

verna,

vernal.

elegans,

elegant.

amxcEna,

fine-blue.

sptcata>

spiked.

pulchella,

neat.

grandis,

large white.

TABLE OF SOILS.

THE following compound of soils are adapted to the natur
Plants contained in this work :

of the

NUMBER.

Savanna.

1

2

2

-

3

4

_

5

all

6

3

7

_

8

4

10

1

11

_

12

_

13

2

14

_

15

_

16

4

17

_

18

_

19

1

Loam.
1
3

4

2

1
3

1
2
1
3
3
2
4
4

5

1
1

Leaf.

Sand.

2

1

_

1

1

- 1

1

2

- 1

- i

1

—

2

- 1

1

1

1

i

_

1

2

1

1

—

1

1

1

- 1

Manure.

REMARKS ON THE NATURE OF SOILS USED IN THE ABOVE TABLE.

Peat or Savanna soil — is of a dark colour, with a large portion of white
sand incorporated with it, and is found frequently in New Jersey. A
mixture of two-thirds black earth from the woods and one-third of
pure white sand will be similar to it, and may be used as a substitute,
but is not exactly of the same nature.

Loam — is of a light brown colour, and is that from the top of old pas-
tures or commons, which should lie one year, and be frequently turned
before using. It ought not to be from a clay bottom, and merely
three inches of the turf taken.

Leaf mould — is that which is to be found on the surface of the ground
in woods, and is the decomposed leaves. It may be termed nearly
of first rate importance in vegetation.

Sand — is a substance that is generally known, and that which is found
on the surface is decidedly the best. If it is from a pit, it must be
spread out, and frequently turned, that it may assimilate with the
atmosphere before using ; four months will be sufficient.

Manure — before using, must be decomposed to very fine particles. It
will require two years, during which time it must be often turned, and
the longer it lays it will be the finer and more congenial.

THE END.

ERRATA.

Page 31 line 19, for "meutabilis" read mutabilis.
" 85 " 35, for " Periplaca" " Periploca.
" 136 « 6, for " Park," " Bark.

" 169 « 25, for " Magnifera," " Mangifcra.

KOBEKT BUIST,
NURSERYMAN, SEEDSMAN, AND FLORIST,

NO, 140 SOUTH TWELFTH STREET, PHILADELPHIA,

Cultivates and has for Sale, on the very lowest cash
terms, an extensive assortment of the Rose, Camellia, Pe-
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troducing those new sorts worthy of the attention of either
amateur or cultivator. He also has a select assortment of
all the choice Fruits, with several thousand fruiting plants
of foreign Grape Vines in pots. He invites personal in-
spection to his stock, which is not excelled by any in the
United States. His green-house department occupies
18,000 square feet of glass, which enables him to fulfil the
most extensive demands. Flowers and Vegetable Seeds,
Hyacinths, Tulips and other Dutch bulbs.

All orders must be accompanied with cash or responsi-
bility. Every article carefully packed and forwarded at
the risk of the purchaser.

Priced catalogues mailed to order.

BUIST'S PRIZE SEEDLING STRAWBERRY,

This new American Seedling Strawberry is offered to
the public as one of the very best in cultivation. The
fructifying organs of the plants are all perfect, thereby
ensuring a full crop. It is of very high flavour and rich
crimson colour, large size and great bearer, and, when
brought before a Committee of the Pennsylvania Horticul-
tural Society, in comparison with others, was pronounced
" decidedly the best."

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