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The Pennsylvania
Horticultural Society

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THE

AMERICAN GARDENER'S

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Digitized by tine Internet Arciiive

in 2011 with funding from

LYRASIS IVIembers and Sloan Foundation

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http://www.archive.org/details/americangardener1828mmah

THE

AMERICAN GARDENERI^

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TO THE CLIMATES AND SEASONS

OF THE

mmttXt states:

C.OWTAINIXG
A COMPLETE ACCOUNT OF ALL THE WORK NECESSARY TO BE DONE

KITCHEN-GARDEN,

FRUIT-GARDEN,

ORCHARD,

VINEVARD,

NURSERY,

PLE ASURE-GROUND,
FLOWER-GARDEN,
GRI'.EN-HOUSE,
HOr-HOUSE, \MD
FORCING FRAMES,

FOR EVERY MONTH IN THE YEAR ;

WITH AMPLE PRACTICAL DIRECTIONSi

FOR PERFORMING THE SAME.

ALSO,

General as well as minute instructions, for laying; out, or erecting each andevery of"

the above departments according to modern taste and the most approTted

pSans; the oh?^amental plantino of PLr.ASunE-SRouNDs, in the

ancient and modern stile; the cultivation of thorn q,uicks

and other plants suitable for live hedges, with the

^ best methods of making them, Sec.

To which are annexed,

CATALOGUES OF KITCHEN GARDEN PLANTS AND HERBS ; AROMATIC POT
AND SWEET HERBS ; MEDICINAL PLANTS; AiNTD THE MOST IMPORTANT
GRASSES, &c. USED IN RURAL ECONOMY, WITH THE SOIL
BEST ADAPTED TO THEIR CULTIVATION ;

TOBETBEH WITH

.. jj COPIOUS INDEX TO THE BODY OF THE WORK.

BY BERIf ARD M'SMCAHOIV.

SEVENTH EDITION IMPROVED.^

J^fiflatrcliJliia:

l^UBUSHED BY A. M'MAHON, No. 13, SOUTH SECOND STREET

JOHN YOITNG, PRINTER.

1828.

/ :? . ( i\

TO THE PUBLIC.

A. M'Mahon & Co. respectfully return their sincere thanks for the continuance _
of the patronage which was so liberally exteniled to the Vmhor of this publicaiion. —
And at the same lime, beg leave to inform theh- friends and tiie public generally, that
they have constantly for sale, almost every article pertaining to Horticulture, Hotatiy,
and Agriculture Their assortment of Grass, Garden, Field and Flower Seeds, is not
excelled in ihe United States, either in extent or cjuality. Fruit and Ornamental
Trees and Plants — Flowering Shrubs — Evergreens — Grape Vines (cuttings & plants)
Virghiia Cockspur, «nd other Thorn Quicks for Live Hedges — True Italian White
Mulberry Ti-ees and Seed. — The most chnice publications on Botany and Agricul-
ture, Gardening Tools and Implements Bulbous Flow er Roots, Green-liouse plants,
Bird Fountai'S and Bird eed — Gold and Silver Fish and Fish Globes. And, gen-
eraily every thing in their line of business, muy lie had at the old establislied stand,
No. 1 3, South Second Stieet, Philadelphia, ( VVIudestile and Retail), on the most rea-
sonable terms. (J^^ Orders from any distance, inclosing the Cash, or giving city
references, attended to with puuctusility and despatch.

Eastern District of Pennsylvania, to wit:

\^Hi<r ^^ '^ REMEVIBERED, that on the fifth day of January, in the
*<^EV^^'' forty-third year of the Independence of the United States of Ame-
^^^^g rica, A.D. 1819, T.P. M'Mahon, of the said District, hath deposited
v^^^S^ in this office the title of a book, the ris^ht whereof he claims as pro-

^^r?*'' prietor, in the words following, to wit:

'• The American Gardener's Calendar; adapted to the climates and seasons of
the United States. Coulaining; a complete account of all the work necessary to
be done in the Kitchen-garden, Fruit-garden, Orchard, Vineyard, Nursery,
PI •as are -ground, Flower-garden, Green-house, Hot-house, and Forcmg-frames,
for every month in the year; with ample Practical Directions for performing the
same. Also, general as well as minute instructions, for laying out, or erecting^
each and every of the above de|)artments, according to modern taste, and the
most approved plans; the Ornamental Planting of Pleasure-grounds, in the an-
cient and modern stile; the cultivation of Thorn-Quicks and other plants suita-
ble for Live Hedges, with the best methods of making them, Sic. To which is
annexed, (;atalogues of Kitchen-garden Plauts and Herbs; Aromatic, Pot and
Sweet Herbs; Medicinal Plants; and the most important Grasses, fcc. used ia
Rural Economy, with the soil best adapted to their cultivation; together with u.
copious index to the body of the work. By Bernard M'Mahon, Second Edition
improved.''

In conformity to the Act of the Congress of the United States intituled, " An
Act for the Encouragement of Learning, by securing the copies of Alaps, Charts,
and Books to the authors and proprietors of such cojiies, during the times therein
mentioned." — And also to the Act, intituled "An Act supplementary loan Act,
entituled. An Act for the Encouragement of Learning, by securing the copies of
Maps, Charts and Books, to the authors and proprietors of such copies, during the
times therein mentioned, and extending the benefits thereof to the arts of design-
ing, engraving, and etching historical and other prints."

D. CALDWELL,
Clerk of tUe Eastern District of Pennsylvania.

18 3 2 0

IPPHOR

PREFACE.

J. HE general utility of horticulture, or the Art of irriprov-
ing every kind of soil; of producing a plentiful supply of whole-
some vegetables and fruits, so necessary to health in all countries,
especially in warm climates; of cultivating the various plants de-
signed by INFINITE GOODNESS, to minister to the comforts of ani-
mal life, by correcting the divers maladies to which it is subject by
nature, and still more so, in the human race, by intemperance; of
raising many articles of luxury and commerce, as well as materials
for ornamenting the whole face of the country; is too obvious, to
render any arguments necessary in favour of an attempt to facili-
tate the general acquisition of that useful branch of knowledge; but
more especially, in a country which has not yet made that rapid
progress in Gardening, ornamental planting, and fanciful rural de-
signs, which might naturally be expected from an intelligent, happy
and independent people, possessed so universally of landed proper-
ty, unoppressed by taxation or tithes, and blest with consequent
comfort and affluence.

The neglect in these respects is, no doubt, to be attributed to vari-
ous causes, among the most prominent of which, is the necessity of
having reference for information on those subjects, to works pub-
lished in foreign countries, and adapted to climates, by no means
according with ours, either in the temperature or course of the
seasons, and in numerous instances, differing materially in modes of
culture, from those rendered necessary here, by the peculiarities of
our climates, soils and situations. And however excellent and use-
ful these works are in the regions to which they are adapted, they
tend to mislead and disappoint the young American Horticulturist,
instead of affording him that correct, judicious and suitable instruc-
tion, the happy result of which would give impulse to his peise-
verance.

To obviate this necessity, as much as in my power, and to

6 PREFACE.

contribute my mite to the welfare of my fellow-citizens, and tb
the general improvement of the country, I have undertaken this
work, and arranged the matter according to the seasons of the year,
that the reader may have an easy reference to the particular busi-
ness to be performed in every month. By this means the subject
becomes a daily amusement and study, applicable at the moment,
and consequently leaving a lasting impression on the memoi*y;
which, if attended to for a few years, may make any person who
has a taste for admiring and enjoying the magnificence, beauties
and bounties of Nature, in its vegetable productions, a complete
Master of the Art, and if he pleases, his own Gardener.

In writing this treatise, I have had recourse to the best publica-
tions, American, English, French and Latin, lest any useful sug-
gestions, or modern improvements in the art, should escape my no-
tice or recollection; still keeping in view, not only the difference of
climate, season, and the necessary modes of culture in foreign coun-
tries, but also, in the extensive region of which the United States
are composed. It is, however, probable, notwithstanding all my
assiduity and care, in collecting as much information as possi-
ble, with respect to the most firoper seasons for sowing particular
kinds of seeds, Stc, in the remote parts of the Union., that I have
iallen into some mistakes; for these, as well as typographical er-
rors, to which a work of this kind is unavoidably subject, I solicit
the reader's excuse; and shall consider myself under serious obliga-
tions to those, whose personal friendship, or patriotism, shall induce
tliem to inform me of any horticultural errors which I may have
committed, or improvements that may be made; in order that the
former be corrected, and the latter, if justified by experience, pub-
lished in some future work, or edition of this.

The culture and management of Grape-Vines, and all other
kinds of fruit-trees, which can be cultivated with us to advantage,
or even to indulge curiosity; the raising and planting of Thorn-
quicks and other plants suitable for live-hedges, the cultivation
of Liquorice, Rhubarb, Dyer's Madder, Weld or Dyer's Weed,
Fuller's Teasel, Sea Kale {Crambe ?naritima), Cork-tree, Manna
Ash, Tanner's Suniack (Rhus Coriaria), Paper Mulberry, Mul-
berry-trees for feeding Silk-worms (and care of the insects,) with
every other plant, not already common, which appeared to me of
sufficient importance, either in a commercial, manufacturing, or
ornamental point of view, or as affording any of the luxuries or ne-
cessaries of life, have been treated of with due attention: and in
order to accommodate the Agriculturist, I have given a classical ca-

PREFACE. 7

talogue of the iftost important and valuable grasses, and other plants,
used in rural economy; and likewise pointed out the particular
kind of soil, in which each plant cultivated as a grass, or exclusively
on account of its foliage, has been found, upon repeated trials, to
succeed best.

From an experience which I have had, of near thirty years, in
PRACTICAL GARDENING, on a general and extensive scale; the par-
ticular pains which I have taken, not only to designate the neces-
sary work of every month, but also the best methods of performing
it; the avoiding of all unnecessary repetitions, so frequent in works
of the kind, in order to render it as full of important matter as pos-
sible; the assiduous endeavours to make it useful in every state of
the Union, and to induce an association of the science of Botany with
practical horticulture, without which the latter can never be so ad-
vantageously conducted; it is hoped, that this will be found to be
the most useful and valuable Gardener's Calendar hitherto pub-
lished in any country, but more particularly so, to the citizens of
the United States, for whose use it has been written, and to whom
it is respectfully inscribed by the Author.

BERNARD M'MAHON.

Philadelfihia,

\

ADVERTISEMENT.

1 HE proprietor of this work takes the liberty of informing his
friends and the public, that he is constantly supplied, at his Seed
Warehouse in Philadelphia, with a general assortment of Garden-
Seeds^ suitable for cultivation, in the United States, and in the West
Indies; Grass seeds of every important and valuable kind; an im-
mense variety of Tree, Shrub and Flower seeds and roots, procured
from the various parts of the world, with which the entcrprize of
American commerce has any connection, as well as from the dif-
ferent States and Territories of the Union; Fruit and Ornamental
Trees and Plants from his Nursery and Botanic Garden, of almost
every kind and variety; Spades, Shovels, Rakes, Hoes, Reels, Lines,
Trowels, Edging-irons, Garden-shears, Watering-pots, Pruning,
Budding and Grafting Knives, &c.; Bulb-glasses, Bass-mats, Glass
suitable for hot-bed lights and other forcing departments; s«eds for
bird-feeding of every kind, split and whole peas for boiling, best
flour of mustard, and every other article appertaining to his line of
business; all of which he disposes of, wholesale and retail, on the
most moderate terms.

The more effectually to accommodate his customers, he has con-
nected with the Seed Trade, a Botanical, Agricultural and Horti-
cultural Book Store, where a great variety of the most valuable publi-
cations on these subjects, especially the modern works of merit, may
now be had. This, with his other business, he is determined to ex-
tend to the utmost of his ability; and he flatters himself, that by his
industry, perseverance and punctuality, with the patronage of a
generous public, he will be enabled to render this establishment,
not only useful to himself, but of considerable advantage to the com-
munity at large.

THE

AMERICAN GARDENER'S
CALENDAR.

JANUARY.

WORK TO BE DONE IN THE KITCHEX GARDEX.

Preparations for Early Crops,

IN such parts of the Union, where the ground is not at this time
bound up with frost, continue to dig the waste quarters of your
kitchen gr\rden, first giving them such manure as they require; lay-
ing them in high sloping ridges, to sweeten and be improved by the
frost, &c. more especially if the soil be a stiff nature: by which
method, its adhesion is destroyed, the pores are opened for the ad-
mission of air, frost, rain and dews, all of which abounding with
nitrous salts, contribute, in a high degree, towards its melioration
and fertility; and besides a great quantity of ground thus prepared,
can be soon levelled in the spring for sowing or planting; which, if
neglected, would require much time to dig in a proper manner, and
that at a period, when the throng of business requires every advan-
tage of previous preparation.

AVhen the ground at this time is frozen so hard as not to be dug,
■which is generally the case in the middle and eastern states, you
may carry manure into the different quarters and spread it, repair
fences, rub out and clean your seeds, prepare shreds, nails and twigs,
for the wall and espalier trees, which are to be pruned in this and
the next month; get all the garden-tools in repair, and procure
such as are wanting; provide from the woods a sufficient quantity
of pea-rods, and poles for your Lima and other running beans;
dress and point them, so as to be ready for use when wanted.

Here it may be well to remark, that many people who neglect to
provide themselves with pea-rods at this season, when it can be so
conveniently done, are necessitated, when the hurry of business over-
takes them in spring, to sow their peas and let them trail on the

B

10 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [Jak,

ground; in which situation they vill never produce, especially the
tall growing kinds, one third as many as if they were properly
rodded.

The various kinds of Early-Hotspur Peas, will require rods from
four to five feet high, the Marrowfat, Glory of Lngland, White and
Green Kouncival, Spanish Morotto, and other tall growing kinds;
%vill require them to be from six to seven feet high, exclusive of
the part to be inserted in the earth; they ought to be formed or
dressed Ian fashion, the lower ends pointed, for the ease of pushing
them into the earth, and laid by, either under some shed, or in any
convenient place till wanted; one set of rods, will with care last for
three years. 1 he same kind of rods, that the tall growing peas re-
quire, will answer for the generality of running Kidney-Beans; the
Lima-lJeans require strong poles from eight to nine feei high.

If in this, and the next month, you neglect forwarding every thing
that can possibly be done, in and for the garden, you will materially
find the loss ot such inattention, when the hurry and pressure of
spring business overtake you. Every active and well inclined
gardener will find abundant employment in the various departments
of the gai'den at this season, and need not be idle, if disposed to be
industrious, or to serve either himself or his employer.

Framing.

Many will think that the instructions hereafter given, for the
raising of early Cucumbers and Melons, in frames, are too difl'use;
especially in a couniry which abounds in these kinds of fruit, pro-
duced in such quantities, in summer and autumn, without artificial
heat, or very much trouble.

The remark may be just, but the principal motive for giving these
lengthy instructions, is to exercise the young gardener, in the art
of managing Garden-Frames in general; an art absolutely essen-
tial lo every good Gardener, and which cannot be better exemplified
then in the raising of early Cucumbers and Melons. And besides
these fruit coming into use at an early season, will be much valued
and esteemed.

As several other kinds of kitchen-garden vegetables are desirable
at an early season, such as cresses, rape, lettuce, mustard, radishes,
&c. to cut while young; asparagus, radishes, peas, kidney beans,
&c. to be forwarded to early perfection; cauliflower and cabbage
plants, to succeed those sown in September, and to produce a prin-
cipal crop for early summer use; you should now provide the ne-
cessary supplies of hot stable dung, rich earth, and other requisites
proper for their cultivation in hot beds, as explained for each, under
its respective head.

Hot-bed-Frames and Lights.

If not already provided with hot-bed-frames and lights, you may
get them made agreeably to the followmg instructions. Large
frames ought to be made of inch and half, or rather two inch plank,

Jan.] the kitchen GARDEN. ^1

of the best yellow pine, nine feet two inches long, four feet ten inches
wide, as hi^h again in the back as in front, to give the top a due-
slope to the sun and a proper declivity to carry off the wet when
covered with glass lights, to move off and on occasionally; every
joint ought to be tongued, the better to prevent the admission of
cold air into, or emission of warm*air out of the bed, but in such,
manner as the i^ardener may think proper. The back and front
are to be nailed to corner posts, so as to admit the ends to fit in
neatly, which ends are to be made fast to the posts by iron bolts
keyed in the inside, for the greater facility of taking the frame
asunder when necessary; each end must be made one inch and a
half hi!>;her than the back and front, so as that one half its thickness
may be grooved out on the inside, for the sash to rest and slide on,
and the other half left for its support on the outside; when finished
give it two or three good coats of paint before you use it, and with
a little care and an annual painting, it may last you twenty years.

These frames will take three litj;hts of three feet wide each, each
light containing five rows of glass panes, six inches by four, over-
lapping one another about half an inch, which of all other
sizes is the most preferable, on account of their cheapness in the
first place, the closeness of their lap, their general strength and
trifling expense of repairs; however, each person will suit his own
convenience as to the dimensions of glass. Where the sashes when
laid on the frame meet a piece of pine about three and a half inches
broad and near two thick, should run from back to front morticed
into each, for their support, and for them to slide on; in the centre
of which, as well as in the ends of the frame, it will be well to make
a groove, five-eighths of an inch wide and near a quarter of an inch
deep, rounded at bottom to receive and carry off any wet which may
work down between the sashes.

But with respect to particular dimensions of frames, they are dif-
ferent according to the plants they are intended to protect, but ge-
nerally from nine to twelve feet long, from four feet eight inches to
five feet wide, from eighteen inches to three feet six inches high in
the back, and from nine to eighteen inches in front, being for the
most part twice as high in the back as in front, if not more.

The common kitchen garden frames may be of three different
sizes, that is, for one, two and three lights, the latter of which, how-
ever, are the most material, and which are employed for general
use: but it is necessary also to have one and two light frames, the
former as seedling frames, and the latter as succession or nursery
frames, to forward the young plants to a due size for the three-light
frames, in which they are^to fruit.

Early Cucumbers and Melons.

As it is generally the ambition of most gardeners to excel each
other in the production of early cucumbers. See. all necessary pre-
parations should be made this month for that purpose, by preparing
dung for hot-beds, in which to raise the plants; for they, being of a
tender quality, require the aid of artificial heat under shelter of

12 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [Jan.

frames and glasses, until the middle or latter end of May, especially
in the middle and eastern states.

But by the aid of hot-beds, defended with frames and glasses, we
obtain early cucumbers, in young green fruit, fit to cut or gather in
February, March and April, Sec. and ripe melons in May and June.

The proper sorts of cucumbe»s for the early crops are the early
short prickly, and long green prickly; of which the first sort comes
earliest; but the latter is considerably the finest fruit, and greatly
preferable for general culture.

And if early melons are also required, there are several varieties
of the fruit: the Cantaleupe is one of the best for its handsome
growth, good size, and superior flavour; and is in much estimation.

The true Cantaleujie or Ar7nenian warted Meloji, is very scarce in
the United States; its fruit is large, roundish and deeply ribbed, u
little compressed at both ends, the surface full of wartccl jirotuberan-
ces, like some species of squash, the flesh reddish, firm, and of a
most delicious rich flavour; of which there are several varieties, dif-
fering principally in colour, and commonly called black rock, gol-
den rock, Sec.

This variety of melon drives the term Cantaleupe, from a place
of that name near Rome, where it was first cultivated in Europe-^
brought thence from Armenia, a country of Asia, in which is situat-
ed the famous Mount Ararat.

But it may also be proper to raise some of the others for variety;
the Romana is a great bearer, comes early, but the fruit much smaller
though well flavoured; the Polignac, Nutmeg and Minorca are also
fine melons; but it may also be eligible to raise two, three, or more
of the best approved different sorts.

Observe, that in procuring these seeds for immediate sowing, both
of cucumbers and melons, it is adviseable to have those of two, three
or four years old, if possible, as the plants will generally show fruit
sooner, as well as prove more fruitful than those of new seeds, which
are apt to run vigorously to vine, often advancing in considerable
length before they show a single fruit; but when seeds of this age
cannot be procured, new seeds may be improved by carrying them
a few weeks previous to sowing in your waistcoat or breeches
pocket.

In order to raise early cucumbers and melons, you must provide
a quantity of fresh hot stable-dung, wherewith to make a small
hot-bed for a seed-bed, in which to raise the plants to a proper
growth for transplanting into larger hot-beds next month to remain
to fruit; for this purpose a small bed for a one or two light frame
may be suflicient, in which case two cai^load of hot dung will be
enough for making a bed of proper dimensions for a one-light box,
and so in proportion for a larger.

Agreeably to these intimations, provide the requisite supply of
good horse-stable-dung from the dunghills in stable-yards, kc. con-
sisting of that forme^of the moist stable litter and dunging of the
horses together, choosing that which is moderately fresh, moist, and
full of heat — always prefering that which is of some lively, warm,
steamy quality; and of which take the long and short together as it

Jan.] the KITCHEN GARDEN. 13

occurs, in proper quantity as above. And beinp: thus procured,
proceed to making the hot-bed, or previously to forming it into a
bed, it'lhe dung is rank, it would be proper to prepare it a little to aa
improved state, more successful for that purpose, by forking the
whole up into a heap, mixing it well together; and let it thus remain
eight or ten days to ferment equally, and for the rank steam and
fierce heat to transpire, or evaporate in some effectual degree; and
by which time it will have acquired a proper temperament for mak-
ing into a hot-bed, by which treatment the heat will be steady and
lasting, and not so liable to become violent or burning, as when the
dung is not previously prepared.

Choose a place on which to make your hot-bed, in a sheltered dry
part of the framing ground,* Sec. open to the morning and south
sun: and it may be made either wholly on the surface of the ground,
or in a shallow trench, of from six to twelve inches deep, and four
or five feet wide, according to the frame; but if made entirely on
the surface, which is generally the most eligible method at this early
season, it affords the opportunity of lining the sides of the bed with
fresh hot dung, quite down to the bottom, to augment the heat when
it declines, and also prevents v/et from settling about the bottom of
the bed, as often happens when made in a trench, which chills the
dung, and causes the heat soon to decay.

Then according to the size of the frame, mark out the dimensions
of the bed, either on the ground, or with four stakes; making an
allowance for it to be about four or five inches wider than the frame
each way: this done, begin to make the bed accordingly, observing
to shake and mix the dung well, as you lay it on the bed, and beat
it down with the back of the fork, as you go on: but I would not
advise treading it, for a bed which is trodden hard will not work so
kindly, and be more liable to burn than that which is suffered to set-
tle gradually of itself: in this manner proceed till the bed has ar-
rived at the height of four feet, which will not be too much; mak-
ing an allowance for its settling six or eight inches, or more, in a
week or fortnight's tirnc; and as soon as finished, let the frame and
glass be put on: keep them close till the heat comes up, then raise
the glass behind that the steam may pass away.

The next thing to be observed, is about earthing the bed, in which
to sow the seed; and for which occasion, should have a proper sup-
ply of rich, light, dry earth, or compost, ready at this season, under
some airy dry shed, or hovel, covered at top to keep out rain, tliat
the earth may be properly dry: for if too moist or wet at this time,
it would prove greatly detrimental both to the growth of the seed and
young plants, as well as bejvery apt to cake and burn at bottom next
the dung, by the strong heat of the bed: therefore, observing, that
for early hot-beds of cucumbers and melons, should generally depo-

* Framhiff Ground is a part of the Kitchen Garden, well defended from
cutting' winds, and well exposed to the sun; particularly intended for framincj
of all kinds, and generally enclosed with live or reed Iiedges, or board fences,
the former being the most preferable.

14 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [Jav.

sit a necessary quantity of proper earth, under some cover as above,
either the beginning of winter, or at least a fortnight, or three or
four weeks previous to making the hot-bed, in order to have it in the
dry, mellow state above mentioned, ready for immediate use when
wanted.

Three or four days after the bed is made, prepare to earth it;
previously observing, if it has settled unequally, to take offthe frame
and glasses, and level any inequalities; make the surface smooth,
put on the frame again, and then lay therein as much of the above-
mentioned earth as will cover the whole top surface of the bed, about
three or four inches thtck, then fill two, three, or more middling
smallish garden-pots with more of the aforesaid rich earth, place
them within the frame on the hot-bed, put on the glass or glasses,
and continue them till the earth in the pots is warm; and when that
is effected, sow the seeds in the pots, both of cucumbers and me-
lons, each separately, more or less in each pot, according to the
quantity of plants required; but generally considerably more of cu-
cumbers than of melons at this season, covering in the seeds near
half an inch deep with the same earth.

This done, place the pots towards the middle of the bed, plunging
the bottom part a little into the earth, drawing some of the same up
round each pot at the same time; or in two or three days after, may
sow a few seeds in the earth of the bed, to have a chance both ways;
but by sowing in pots, if the beds should heat too violently, as is
som.etimes unavoidably the case, the pots can be readily drawn up
more or less, out of danger of burning the earth, &c therein; and
thus, the sowing in pots in a new made hot-bed in full heat may
prove of greater advantage than sowing in the earth of the bed, with
regard to more probable safety from burning.

After sowing the seeds, put on the lights or glasses close; but
when the steam from the heat of the bed rises copiously, give it vent
by raising one corner of the upper ends of the lights, half an inch
or an inch, which is also ncces-ary in order to prevent any burning
tendency from the great heat of the bed in its early state.

Continue now to cover the glasses of the hot-bed every evening,
about an hour before sun-setting if mild weather, but earlier in pro-
portion to its severity, with garden mats; and uncover them every
morning, not sooner than between eight and nine o'clock, at this
season; and observe, in covering up in the evening, that as the bed
will at first have a strong heat and steam within the frame, it may
be adviseable to cover only a single mat thick for the first three or
four nights, as a thicker covering m the early state of the bed might
be apt to occasion a too violent iniernal heat and steam of a burn-
ing nature; but as the great heat decreases, augment the covering,
being careful not to suffer the ends of the mats to hang down con-
siderably below the frame, over the sides of the bed, except in severe
weather, which would drawn up a hurtful strong steam from the
dung, as well as confine the steam and heat too much, and keep the
bed too sliflingly close from the external air, which would weaken
the germination or sprouting of the seed, and the plants would come
up weak and of a sickly yellowish hue: observe, therefore, these

Jan.] the kitchen GARDEN. 15

and the following precautions, in order both to prevent too great a
heat in the bed, and that the plants may rise with a proper degree
of strength and healthtul growth.

Likewise observe, on the above considerations, that in covering
up, or applying the night covering of mats over the glasses, during
the time the strong heat and steam continue in the bed, it would be
proper when the mats are put ou in the afternoon, to raise the up-
per ends of the glass or glasses, a quarter of an inch or a little more
or less, occasionally, both to give vent to the internal rank steam,
and to admit a moderate degree of fresh air; and in which may
fasten one of the covering mats to hang down a little over the part
M'+iere the lights are occasionally opened to prevent the cutting ex-
ternal air from rushing immediately into the frame, especially after
the plants are advancing; but this, necessary as it is, cannot be done
with safety in very severe weather.

Great care is requisite that the earth in the pots have not too
much heat, for the bed is yet very hot, and therefore let the degree
of internal heat in the bed be daily examined; and, if any thing of
burning should appear, you can conveniently raise the pots farther
from the dung, from which the danger proceeds, without disturbing
the seeds or plants, and thereby prevent all injury from too much,
heat, provided you examine the bed every day, and give proper vent
to the rank steam within the frame, while of a burning quality.

In two, three, or four days after the seed is sown, you may expect
the plants to appear; when it will be proper to admit fresh air to
them, by raising the upper end of the glass a little every day: and
if the earth in the pots appears dry, refresh it moderately with a lit-
tle water that has stood in the bed all night, just to take of the cold
chill; applying it about eleven or twelve o'clock of the day, and prin-
cipally only to the earth, about the roots, not over the tops of the
plants; which done, shut down the glasses close for about half an
hour or an hour, then opened again a little, and shut close towards
the evening; when continue to cover the glass every night v/itli
garden mats. And at this time also, if the heat of the bed is strong
and the weather not very severe, raise the glass a little behind with
a prop, when you cover up in the evening, to give vent to the steam;
and nail a mat to hang down over the ends of the glass that is raised,
to break of the sharp edge of the external cold night air from the
plants; but when the heat is more moderate, the glasses may be
shut close every night, observing to uncover in proper tin»e every
morning, to admit the essential benefit of day-light, sun, and air, to
the plants; being careful to continue the admission of fresh air at
all proper opportunities in the day time, to promote strength in the
plants, otherwise they would run weak, and very long and feeble-
shanked; raising the glass as before observed, and if windy or very
sharp air, to hang a mat before the place as above.

On the day that the plants appear, sow a little more seed in the
same bed, in the manner before mentioned; for these tencier plants
being liable to suffer by different causes at tliis season, it is proper,
therefore, to &ow a little seed at three or four different times in the

16 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [Jan.

same bed, at short intervals; for if one sowing should miscarry,
another may succeed.

When the plants, however, both of the first and succeeding sow-
ings, are two, three, or four days old, they should be planted in
small pots, which pots must be placed also in the hot-bed, in the
manner following:

Observe to fill the pots, the day before you intend to remove the
plants, with some rich, dry earth, and set them within the frame till
the next day, when the earth in the pots will be warm; tlien pro-
ceed to planting, take the plants carefully up in the seed-pots, raising
them with your finger, Sec. with all the roots as entire as possible,
and with as much of the earth as will readily adhere about the fi-
bres; and thus, the pots of earth being ready, and forming the earth
thereof a little concavely hollow a small depth, place the plants in the
hollowed part of the earth slopingly, with their roots towards the
centre, and earth over their roots and stems near an inch thick; ob-
serving to plant three plants in each pot; and if the earth is quite
dry, give a very little water just to the roots of the plants only; and
directly plunge the pots into the earth on the bed, close to one
another, filling up all the spaces between with earth; and let every
part of the bed within the frame be covered with as much earth as
will prevent the rising of the rank steam immediately from the
dung, which would destroy the plants.

Be careful to examine the bed every day, to sec that the roots of
the plants do not receive too much heat; if any thing like that ap-
pears, draw up the pots a little, or as far as you see necessary for
the preservation of the plants, re-plunging tliem again to their rims
when the danger is over.

Two or three days after planting, if the bed is in good condition,
the plants will have taken root; though that is efl'ected sometimes,
in twenty-four hours.

When the plants arc fairly rooted, if the earth appears dry, give
them a little water in the warmest time of the day; and if the sun
shines it will prove more beneficial: let tiie watering be occasion-
ally repeated very moderately, according as the earth in the pots
becomes dry, and appears in want of a little moisture: and for this
purpose always have some soft water set within the frame a few
hours, to be ready to water the plants as you shall see occasion;
but always with very great cautious moderation at this season.

Ifthcreisnow a brisk growing heat in the bed, yoa should, in
order to preserve it as long as possible, apply some outward pro-
tection of long stable-litter, straw, waste hay, dried fern, or leaves of
trees, round the sides of the bed, raising it by degrees I'ound the
outsides of the frame.

This will defend the beds from cold piercing wind, heavy or
driving rains and snow, if either should happen; for these, if suf-
fered to come at the bed, would chill it, and cause a sudden decay
of the heat, whereby the plants would certainly receive a great
check.

If a lively heat be kept up, you may admit air to the plants every
day, to strengthen their growth, by tilting the glasses in proportion

JAN.] THE KITCHEN GARDEN. I7

to the heat of the bed, and temperature of the external air: gene-
rally observing, in this case, that when there happens a sharp coiti
air, or cutting wind, it would still be advisable to nail a garclen-niat
to the upper end of the glasses, to hang down over the place where
the air is admitted, supported a little hollow or detached under-
neath, two or three inches from the frame; and it will thus break
off and prevent the cutting external air from entering immediately
into the frame upon the plants, and at the same time admit a proper
det^ree of mild fresh air to greater advantage: however, in calm
moderate weather, this precaution is not materially necessary.

About a fortnight, or a little more or less time after the bed is
made, you will carefully examine the heat thereof, to see if it wants
augmentation; and when the heat begins to decline considerably,
remove the temporary protection of straw, hay, fern, or leaves, from
the iront and back of the bed, if any was laid round it as before add-
ed; then apply a lining of fresh hot horse-dung, close to one or both
sides, as it shall seem necessary, by the heat being less i.r more
decreased; for a constant regular degree of internal heat mu'jt be
supported, to resist the external cold, and continue the plants in a
proper state of advancing growth; but if the heat is not greatly
declined, it v/ould be advisable to line only one side first, applying
it to the back of the bed; and in a week or fortnight after, line the
front, 8cc. forming the lining about fifteen or eighteen inches wide;
but raise it very little higher than the dung of the bed, lest it throw
in too much heat immediately to the earth and roots of the plants;
covering the top with earth two inches thick, to preserve the heat,
and prevent the rank steam of the new dung from coming up, and
entering into the frame, where it would prove destructive to the
plants; the lining will soon greatly revive the declining heat of the
bed, and continue it in good condition a fortnight longer.

Ten or twelve days after lining one side, proceed as before, re-
moving the protection of straw-litter, &c. if any, from the other
side, and applying a lining of hot dung as above, afterwards to
both ends;— and these will again revive and augment the heat for
another fortnight, or more.

After performing the lining, if very cold, wet, or snowy weather
prevail, it may be proper to lay a quantity of dry long litter all
around the general lining, which will protect the whole from driv-
ing cold rains and snow, and preserve the heat of the bed in a fine
growing temperature.

By applying these linings of hot dung in due time, and renewing
them as there shall be occasion, you may preserve the bed in a pro-
per temperature of heat, of sufficient duration to continue the plants
in a free growing state in the same bed, until of due size for ridging
out into the larger hot-beds, finally to remain to produce their fruit.

Observe, however, that where there is plenty of hot dung, and
every proper convenience, you may, in order to forward the plants
as much as possible, prepare a second hot-bed, by way of nursery,
about a fortnight after making the seed-bed, in order to receive the
plants therefrom in their pots, when the heat begins to decline,
plunging the pots in the earth, as above directedi continuing to sup-

C

18 THE KITCHEN GARDEN- [Jan.

port the heat of this bed, as already explained, and in which the
plants may be nursed and forwarded, till they acquire a proper
size for transplanting finally into the fruiting hot-beds — See next
month.

When the plants have advanced in growth with their two first
rough leaves, about ivvo or three inches broad, and have pushed
their two first running buds in the centre, or are a little advanced
in the formation of one or two short runners, they are then of a
proper size for ridging out into the large hot-beds, where they are
finally to remain, whicii perform in proper time, according to the
directions given in February, under the article Cucumbers.

But in order to strengthen the plants in a more firm stocky
growth, and to promote a production of fruitful runners, each plant
must be stopt (as the gardeners term it), or topped at the first or
second joint: i. e. the top of the first advancing runner, when form-
ed in the centre like a small bud, should be pinched or cut ofi' close
to the joint, as directed in February (which see), where the method
of performing it is more fully explained.

Care of the various sorts of Lettuces.

H you have lettuce plants in frames, or under hoop-arches de-
fended with mats, let them enjoy the open air at all opportunities,
by taking the glasses, or other shelters, entirely off, when the
weather is niiid and dry; but if the plants are frozen, let them, while
in that state, be carefully protected from the hot sun, which would
materially injure them

In v^ry wet weather, and when sharp cutting winds prevail, keep
the glasses over them, observing however, to raise the lights or
glasses behind, two or three inciies, in mild days, to admit air to the
plants: for, if they are kept too close, they will be drawn up weak,
and attain to but little perfection; but let the glasses be close shut
every night. In severe frosty weather keep them close night and
day, and cover the glasses with mats, or straw. Sec. both of nights,
and occasionally in the day-thne, if the frost is rigorous; also let
the same care be observed to those under hoop-arches; but let them
have the full air in tiiild open weather.

Or where any lettuces are planted in a south border, close under
a wall or board fence. Sec. it would be advisable, in hard frost, to
cover them as above.

In the above lettuces, in general, pick off all decayed leaves
when any appear, keep them always cleared from weeds, and de-
stroy slugs, which often greatly annoy thein; and in mild weather
stir the surface of the earth between, which will much enliven the
plants.

Sowing Lettuces.

When lettuces have not been sown in autumn for early spring
use, you may now sow any of the cos or cabbage kinds, on a slight
hot-bed under glasses, to be planted out in spring; the young plants
may be greatly forwarded, if pricked into another fresh hot-bed

Jan.] the KITCHEN GARDEN. 19

next month; and in the latter end of March, or beginning of April,
they will be strong, and fit for transplanting into warm borders; a
sufficiency may be retained in the frame, to arrive at early per-
fection.

Forcing early .Bsparagus.

Hot-beds for forcing asparagus may be made with success any
time this month, which will furnish young asparagus for the table
in February and March.

Observing, for this occasion, you must be furnished with plants
that have been raised in the natural ground till of three or four years
growth, of proper size and strength to produce eligible crops of
good-sized asparagus shoots, when planted in a hot-bed; and must
be provided with plenty of good hot dung, wherewith to make sub-
stantial hot-beds, from three to four feet high, -and with proper
large frames and glasses to place on the beds, and garden mats, fot*
covering of nights, &c.

But for general particulars of the plants, and the necessary quan-
tity, as well as of the hot-bed, and other requisites — see the article
Forcing jisparagus in February, which is equally applicable on the
present occasion.

.Mint, Tartspy, ^'c.

Make a small hot-bed for some mint, when it is required at an
early season, in young green shoots, for sallads and mint-sauce, 8cc.
A bed for a small or middling garden frame, of one or two lights,
may be sufficient for supply of a moderate family; and in general
about two feet thick of dung; set on the frame, and lay about four
or five inches depth of earth on the bed, ready for planting.

Then having some roots of common spear-mint, place them upon
the surface, pretty thick, and cover them with earth about an inch
and a half deep; or you may place the roots in drills, and draw the
earth over them.

The mint will appear in about a week or fortnight, and will be in
fine order for mint-sauce. Sec. and either to use alone as a sallad, or
to mix among other small herbs.

By the same means you may obtain green tansey and tarragon.

Small Sallading.

Make a slight hot-bed, in which to sow the different sorts of small
sallading, such as cresses, mustard, radish, and rape, and likewise
lettuce, to cut while young.

The hot-bed for these seeds need not be more than about two
feet thick of dung, and must be covered with a frame and glasses.
The earth must be light and dry, and laid about four to five or six
inches thick on the bed: then let small shallow flat drills be
drawn from the back to the front of the bed; sow the seed therein,
each sort separately, and very thick, covering them net more than
a quarter of an inch deep with earth; or, if but just covered, is cuiri-
cient, and the plants will rise more expeditious and regular; or th^

20 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [Jak.

seed may be sown thick all over the surface of the bed, each sort
separate; smooth it down with the spade, then sift as much light
earth over as will just cover it, as above observed, and directly put
on the glasses; or in want of frames and lights, may use hand-
glasses, observing in general to cover the glasses every night, and in
severe frosty weather, with mats or straw litter. Sec.

As soon as the plants appear, give them as much air as the state of
the weather will admit of, by raising the glasses on props; otherwise
they will be apt to mould or fog, and spoil as fast as they come up.

It must be remembered, that where a regular succession of these
small herbs is required for sallad, should repeat the sowings, at
least on<.e a fortnight.

If you have not hot dung to spare to make hot-beds for this pur-
pose, may sow in a sloping bed of natural earth, under a shallow
garden frame, covered with glasses: allotting for this occasion some
warm compartments of rich earth in the Jull sun: preparing it in
a sloping manner fronting the south, a foot higher on the north
side than in front. Set a frame thereon, sinking the back part, &c.
so as to have the whole surface of the earth within six or eight inches
of the glasses; sow the sallading, put on the glasses, cover them
carefully with mats, he. at night and in very severe weather, and
you need not doubt of success; though, generally, a hot bed will
always prove the most effectually successful on this occasion.

Cauliflower Plants.

Look over, in open weather, the cauliflower plants which were
raised, and planted in frames last autumn for protection in winter,
to plant out in spring, for an early summer crop; and where wi-
thered or damaged leaves appear, let them be picked off; suffer no
weeds to grow among them, and stir the surface gently between)
which will enliven and cherish the plants.

In open weather, let the plants have plenty of air every day, by
raising the glasses, or by taking them entirely off when the weather
is mild and dry; but generally continue the glasses over in rainy
weather: keep them close down every night, and do not open them
at all in severe frosty weather.

In severe weather cover the glasses every night with mats, straw,
or fern, &c. also, if there be occasion, in the day-time, in very ri-
gorous frost; likewise, in such weather, lay some litter round the
outsides of the frame, for this will be very serviceable in preventing
the frost from entering at the sides.

Cauliflowers under hand or bell-glasses must also have air every
mild day, by raising the glasses two or three inches on the warmest
side; in sharp weather keep them close; in severe frost lay some
litter round, and straw or mats over each glass; this will protect the
plants greatly; in tnild dry weather the glasses may be taken
off every day for a few hours; but they must be kept close every
night.

Sowing Cauliflower Seed.

Sow cauliflower seed the beginning, middle, or any time this
month, to raise plants to sugceed those sown in autumn; or also,

Jan.] the KITCHEN GARDEN. 21

in case none were sown at that time for an early summer crop, or
that they have been killed by the severity of the winter; but in order
to bring the plants up soon, and forward them in growth, it will be
necessary to sow them in a slight hot-bed. Plants, sown at this
season, if well managed, are to be more depended on for a general
crop, than those which were sown in autumn, as they are not so apt
to button, or run to seed, in April or May, as the others, and Avill
produce their flowers within ten days as early; though such of the
autumn raised plants, as do not button, generally produce larger
flowers, and earlier.

Make the bed as directed for cucumbers, in page 12, to about three
feet high, which, when settled, will fall to about two feet six inches,
and put a frame on; then lay four or five inches of rich earth over
the bed, sow the seed on the surface, but not until the violent heat
of the bed is over; cover it by sifting or otherwise, with light dry
earth, about a quarter of an inch deep, and then put on the glasses.

When the plants appear, let them have air every day that the
weather will permit, by raising the upper ends of the lights an inch
or two; and in very mild nveaiher^ the lights may be taken off" en-
tirely, for a^ few hours in the warm part of the day: the plants must
not be kept too close, for that would draw them up so weak, as to
render them of liltle value; therefore give them as much air as
possible, consistent with their preservation and promotion of
growth; bu( let them be covered carefully at night, and in very se-
vere weather.

Water them frequently, but sparingly, with water Avhich has
stood over-night in the hot bed; keep them free from weeds, and
in one month they will be fit for transplanting into another hot-
bed— See February.

Sowing Cabbage Seed.

This is a proper time to sow a full crop of early cabbage seed, to
raise plants to succeed those sown in September; the kinds most
suitable, are the early Smyrna, early York, early dwarf Battersea,
and early sugar-loaf; they are to be treated in every respect, as di-
rected for the cauliflower plants, with this difference, that as they
are somewhat more hardy, a less degree of heat will be sufficient.

Sow also some of the large late kinds of cabbage, such as the flat-
dutch, drum-head, Sec. likewise some of the red pickling-cabbage;
the plants from this sowing will be fit for use in July, August, Sec.
and will produce better and larger heads than if sown in April or
May; and besides, they will immediately succeed the early summer
kinds above mentioned.

Sowing Carrots.

In some families young carrots are required as early as possible,
and tliey may be forwarded by sowing the seed m a moderate hot-
bed, about the end ollhis month.

Make the iiot l>ed about two feet thick of dung, and procure some
light, rich, dry earih, which lay six inches thick on the bed. Sow

22 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. [Jan.

the seed thinly on the surface, and cover it with the same kind of
earth a quarter of an inch deep.

When the plants come up, let them enjoy the free air in mild
weather, and cover them in cold nights, and albo in every severe
frost, whilst young; and when an inch or two high, thin them to
about three inches asunder; and you will thus have young spring
carrots lor drawing in April and May.

Sowing Radishes.

In order to have radishes as early as possible, recourse must be
had to the assistance of hot-beds; therefore, any time in this month,
make a moderate hot-bed for one or more garden frames, only about
two feet and a half depth of dung, sufficient just to promote the
eitrly germination of the seed, and forward the plants moderately
without running them up long shanked, &c. When the bed is made,
set on the frame, lay in about six inches depih of good light garden
earth, then having some seed of the best early-trame, or short-top-
ped radish, sow it evenly on the surface, press it into the earth with
the back of a spade, cover it nearly half an inch deep with light
mould, and put on the glasses.

When the plants appear, give them a large share of air, either
by taking the glasses, Sec. entirely off, whenever it can be done with
safety, even for half an hour at a time, or tilting them up high at
one end, as the weather will permit, otherwise they will draw, or
run up long shanked, and be spoiled; and after the plants have been
up a few days, thin them regularly with your hand, where they
stand too thick, and leave the strongest plants standing not less than
an inch asunder. Support a gentle heat in the bed, when it de-
clines, by applying a moderate lining of hot dung.

Mushrooms.

Mushroom-beds should be carefully attended to at this season.
They should have sufficient covering to defend them effectually horn.
the frost, rain, or snow; which should not be less than two feet
thick; and if heavy rain or snow should have penetrated quite
through the covering, this must be removed immediately, or your
spawn will be in danger of perishing. Replace it with good cover-
ing of clean and dry wheat or other straw; and in order to defend
the bed more effectually from wet and cold, it is advisable to spread
some large garden mats, or canvas cloths, over the straw, which will
greatly preserve the beds.

Artichokes.

Artichokes, if not landed up before, should not be neglected any
longer, except the severity of the frost prevents it: in which case,
as these plants are liable to suffer greatly by rigorous frosts, it is ad-
visable to give some temporary protection, first clearing away the
decayed and large old leaves, then apply .a good thick covering of

Jan.] the FRUIT GARDEN. 23

long, dry, strawy dnng, or mulchy litter, close about each plant: but,
if open dry weather, it vvouid l)e most expedient to land them up;
observing, preparatory to this, to cut away all the large and decayed
old leaves close to the ground; then dig between, and earth up the
plants, as in November and December.

But the work of landing up artichokes should always be perform-
ed in November or December; for which see the work of these
months. It should never be omuted; for it is the most general
effective method of preserving the phmts in severe winters.

And after they are landed, if the frost should prove very severe,
it will also be proper to lay light, dry, long litter over the rows: if
the plants are of the true globe sort, too great care cannot be taken
to preserve them; for sometimes a severe winter makes a great ha-
voc among them; and, in spring, young sets to recruit the planta-
tions, may be very difficult to procure.

SOUTHERN STATES.

In Georgia, South Carolina, and such parts of the other southern
states, as are not subject to winter frosts, you may sow carrots,
parsneps, beets, spinach, lettuce, radish, celery, parsley, cabbage,
cauliflower, borecole, brocoli, leeks, onions, 8cc. especially towards
the latter end of the month.

Sow peas and plant beans of various kinds, earth up such peas
and beans as are advanced in growth, rod and stake such of them
as require it; plant out cabbage and cauliflower plants, earth up late
celery, and tie up endive for blanching: and, in short, do all the
work directed to be done in the kitchen garden for the month
of March, where you will find ample instructions for performing
the same.

In such of the southern or western states, as frosts are prevalent
in, at this season, the above work must be deferred till such period
in next month, or even in March, as it can be done in, without dan-
ger from frost; with the exception, of planting the windsor-bean,
{Vicia Fada), and all the different varieties of that species; which
ought to be planted as soon after the middle of January, as it is
possible to get the ground in a proper state of preparation to receive
them: they are very hardy, are not subject to rot in the ground
like kidney beans, provided it be dry; they thrive best in a heavy
strong soil, and are seldom very productive in the United States,
if not planted early.

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

Pruning.

Where pruning was neglected in November or December,
it can now be done; though the latter end of February is a prefer-
able time in the middle states, and the beginning of March in the

24 THE FRUIT GARDEN. [Jan.

eastern; howevc, apple and pear trees being perfectly hardy, may
be pruned at any time during the winter months with safety;
plums and cherries may also be pruned any time thai ihe weather
is tolerably mild; and as this month will answer extremely well in
the southern states, for pruning almost all kinds of fruit-trees, it
may be useful to give at this time, general instructions for perform-
ing the same, which may be referred to at any other period.

Pruning Espalier and Wall Trees.

As some people have not a sufficient idea of what is meant by es-
fialiers, the following explanation, and instructions for formmg them,
&c. may not be unacceptable.

Espaliers are hedges of fruit-trees, which are trained up regu-
larly to a lattice or trellis of wood work, and are commonly ctrranged
in a single row in the borders, round the boundaries of the principal
divisions of the kitchen-garden; there serving a double or treble
purpose, both profitable, useful, and ornamental. They produce
large fine fruit plen;ifully, without taking up much room, and being
in a close range, hedge-like, they in some degree shelter the escu-
lent crops in the quarters; and having borders immediately under
them each side, afford different aspects for different plants, and also
they afford shelter in winter, forwardness to their south border crops
in spring, and shade in summer; and as to ornament and variety,
■what can be more delightful in spring, in the excursion of the walks,
than the charming appearance which the trees mak^. when covered
with their showy bloom, differing in themselves, in those of differ-
ent genera, species, and varieties; or in summer, to see the fruit
of the different sorts advancing to perfection, and in autumn arrive
successively to maturity? And as the tret;s are arranged all of an
equal height, not exceeding six feet, closely furnished with branches,
ranged horizontally at regular distances one above another, from
the very ground upwards, the fruit hereby are exhibited to great
advantage, and being low, and the branches fixed, are convenient
to pull, and not liable to be blown down by wind.

An espalier has this advantage over a wall tree, that as being
wholly detached, the branches have liberty to form fruit spurs on
both sides, which in the wall tree cannot be effected but on one; in
fact, common fruit- walls are unnecessary in the Uni ed States,
except in the eastern and some of the middle states, where they
are useful in forwarding to due perfection, and fiavour, some late
kinds of superior peaches, grapes, and other late fruits; but when
•walls are built for other purposes, and are conveniently situated,
advantage ought to be taken of them, for raising fruit; observing,
to suit the various kinds, to the various aspects.

Trellises are also used occasionally for wall trees, where the wall
does not admit of nailing the branches immediately against it; also
for training wall trees in forcing-houses and forcing-frames, and are
formed according to different degrees of taste, for use and ornament,
as well as of difTerent dimensions, from four or five to six, or in
forcing- houses, to seven, eight, or ten feet high.

JkN.] THE FRUIT GARDEN. 25

For common espalier fruit-trees in the open ground, a trellis is
absolutely necessary, and may either be formed of common stakes
or poles, or of regular joinery work, according to taste or fancy.

The cheapest, the easiest, and soonest made trellis for common
espalier trees, is, that formed with straight poles, being cut inlo
proper lengths, and driving tl>em into the ground, in a range, a
foot distance, all of an equal height, and then railed along the top
with the same kind of poles or slips of pine or other boards, nailed
down to each stake, to preserve the whole straight and firm in a
regular position; to which the branches of the espalier trees are to
be fastened with small osier-twigs, rope yarn, &c. and trained along
horizontally from stake to stake, as directed for the different sorts
under their proper heads.

To render the above trellis still stronger, run two or three hori-
zontal ranges of rods or small poles along the back parts of the up-
rights, a foot or eighteen inches asunder, fastening them to the
upright stakes, either with pieces of strong wire twisted two or three
times round, or by nailing them.

But when more elegant and ornamental trellis's of joinery work
are required in any of the departments, they are formed with re-
gularly squared posts and rails, of good durable timber, neatly planed
and framed together, fixing the main posts in the ground, ten or
twelve feet asunder, with smaller ones between, ranging the hori-
zontal railing from post to post, in three or more ranges; the first
being placed about a foot from the bottom, a second at top, and one or
two along the middle space, and if thought convenient, Biay range
one between each of the intermediate spaces; then fix thin slips
of lath, or the like, upright to the horizontal railing, ten inches or
a foot asunder; and paint the whole with oil colour, to render it
more ornamental and durable; and in training the trees, tie their
branches both to the railing of the trellis, and to the upright laths,
according as they extend in length on each side.

In either of the above trellis's for a common espalier, five or six
feet at most, is a sufficient height, as, if much higher, the winds,
having great power, would be very apt to loosen and displace them.

The permanent trellis's ought not to be made till the second or
third year after planting, except the trees have had as long a time
of regular and judicious training; for while they are young, it will
be sufficient to drive a few short stakes into the ground on each side
of the trees, in a straight line, to which the branches should be fas-
tened in a horizontal position, as they are produced, in order to train
them properly for the espalier; these will be sufficient for the two
or three first years, for should you make the regular espalier or
trellis the first year the trees are planted, many of the stakes would
rot before the espalier is covered. For directions respecting the
planting espalier and wall-trees, see March and October.

Pruning Jipple and Pear Trees, in Espaliers, or trained to Walls
or Board Fences.
Apple and pear trees being of the spur-bearing kind, and their
mode of bearing similar, one method of pruning answers for both;

D

26 THE FRUIT GARDEN". [Jan,

they producing their fruit upon short natural spurs from the sides
and ends of the branches, and the same branches continue bearing
for many years, increasinij their qu&iitity oi fruit spurs as they gra-
dually advance in length; let it therefore be remarked, thai in the
general course of pruning those trees, their branches and shoots are
not to be shortened, but generally trained along horizontally to ihe
espalier and wall, at their natural length, at least as fur as there is
scope of room to extend them; never shortened except on particu-
lar occasions, below explained: and the whole trained four to five
or six inches asunder.

Keeping theretore this in mind, look over the general branches,
in which observe, that in such advancing young trees as are still in
training, requiring a farther supply of young wood to form the head,
be careful to select and retain a proper quantity of the best-placed
last summer's shoots at full length, anil generally a terminal shoot
to each mother branch; and cut out all the superfluous and irregu-
lar ones; but, in full-trained or old trees, still retaming the former
trained or same individual bearing branches for many years, as long
as >hey conti.me fruitful; and only examine any particular branches
that appear worn out or decayed, or any that are too much crowded
or very irregular, and let such be now pruned out; at the same
time observe where any of the last summer's shoots are wanted to
supply vacant spaces, and retain them accordingly; cutting out all
the superfluous or over abundant, close to the main branches; like-
wise, let all foreright and other irregular-placed shoots be cut away;
carefully retaining the leading shoot to all the main blanches, where
there is a scope to run them; so retaining the general branches and
the necessary supply of young wood, about four to five or six inches
asunder, to be trained to the trellis or wall, 8cc. all at their full
length, as aforesaid; and, according as they advance in length, still
continue extending them, or without shortening, at least as far as
their limited space admits.

In the course of this pruning, have particular care to preserve
all the natural fruit-spurs; but cut away all those formed of the
remaining stumps of shortened shoots, for these rarely produce any
thing but a confusion of unnecessary wood-shoots every summer:
and for which reason be careful, in pruning out the superfluous and
irregular shoois, always to cut them off quite close from whence
they originate.

Then train in, all the remaining proper branches and shoots at
their full length, about from four to five or six inches asunder, as
aforesaid, without reducing them in length either in the summer or
winter pruning.

By the above practice, the shoots or branches of these trees will,
about the second or third year after they are laid in, begin to pro-
duce short shoots or spurs (as they are generally termed) about an
inch or two in length; some not above half an inch; and from these
the fruit is produced.

But if the branches of these trees were to be shortened, it would
be cutting off the very part wheie blossom-buds or spurs first begin
to appear; and insiead of those fruitful parts, they would send forth

Jan.j the fruit garden. 27

a number of strong wood-shoots. This plainly shows, that the
shoots which were intended for fruit-beuring must not be generally
shortened; for if that is practised, the trees would constantly run to
wood, and never produce any tolerable crop of fruit.

If, indeed, there is a wain of wood in any part of these trees, then
the occasional shortening of some of the adjacent young shoots may
be necessary, whereby to promote a production of laterals the ensu-
ing summer to furnish the vacancy.

For instance, if there is any vacant part in the tree, and two,
three, or more shoots, are requisite to furnish that vacancy, and
only one shoot was produced in that part the preceding summer,
that shoot, in such a case, being now shortened to four or five buds,
it, if strong, will produce three or four lateral shoots the summer
following.

Pruning Plums and Cherries.

This is also a proper season to jM'une plums and cherries, either
against walls or espaliers, especially where the wealher is mild.

Let it be observed, in the pruning of these trees against walls or
espaliers, that, like the apples and pears, they being of the sjjur-
bearing kind, producing the fruii upon short natural spurs or studs,
emitted along the sides of the branches, oi from two or three to
many years old, so must accordingly retain the san^e branches many
years for bearers, which must not be shortened in ilie course of
pruning, but trained horizontally at their full length, about three or
four to five or six inches asunder; also all young shoots of the last
year's growth, as are now proper to be reserved in vacancies, to fui'-
nish the wall or espalier with bearing wood, must not be shortened;
but every such shoot or branch must be left entire; and this should
at all times be observed, which is the only certain method whereby
to render the branches fruitful.

In the operation of priming these trees, observe, as advised for
the apple and pear trees, to give proper attention both in any young
trees still under training, and in the fully-trained older trees fur-
nished with the requisite expansion of branches.

Observing, in the former, i. e. the young trees under training,
that where further supplies of brandies are required in order to
form a proper expansion of bearers trained in regularity, should be
careful to leave some best well-placed young shoots for that purpose;
and cut out the improper and unnecessary, such as fore-right and
other irregular placed growths; or also any superfluous or over-
abundant shoots, that may occur in particular parts of the trees; re-
taining the reserved proper shoots mostly at their full length, for
training as above; and they will thus, in from one to two or three
years' growth, furnish natural fruit-spurs for bearing; but generally
sooner in the cherries than the plums, as some sort of cherries will
probably bear fruit the same year, on the young shoots now train-
ed m: the morella in particular bears mostly on the one-year old
shoots. For observations thereon — see JVovember.

And in the full-trained trees of the above sorts, look carefully
over the general expansion; and where any occasional supply of

28 THE FRUIT GARDEN. [Jan.

young wood appears necessary, select and retain some best-placed
proper shoots of last summer accordingly, either to furnish any
present vacancy, or to train in between the main branches where it
may seem expedient, in order to be advancing to a bearing state,
ready to supply any apparent future occasion; but in the morella
particularly, above mentioned, retain always a general supply foi*
principal bearers: (see JVovember:) and prune out all irregular and
superabundant shoots close to the mother branches; and if casual
worn-out or decayed old unfruitful branches occur let them now be
cut out, retaining young wood of proper growth, &c. to supply their
place; preserving also, in all vacant spaces, a supply of the best
young shoots at their natural length, as above advised, and a lead-
ing one to each branch; being careful to preserve all the short na-
tural fruit spurs, and cut away close any remaining naked stumps
of former shortened shoots: then, as soon as a tree is thus pruned,
proceed to train in all the proper shoots and branches to the wall,
or espalier, at their full length, as aforesaid, at the above men-
tioned distances: and all those thus treated will, in two or three
years time, send out many short shoots, or fruit-spurs, about half an
inch or an inch in length; and from these spurs the fruit is always
produced.

These spurs generally appear first toward the upper part, or
that which was once the superior part of the one, two and three
years old branches; and if shortening was to be practised, those
parts would consequently be cut away where the blossom-buds
would have otherwise first made their appearance. Therefore, in
the course of pruning apple, pear, plum, and cherry trees, never
shorten or top the young shoots that are left for a supply of bear-
ing wood, nor any of the bearing branches, if there is room to extend
them; and they will thus all gradually form themselves into a plen-
tiful bearing state.

But if shortening was generally practised to these kinds of fruit-
trees, as is the case with many pruners, it would prove their mani-
fest destruction in regard to preventing their fruitfulness: for, in
the places where fruit-buds would otherwise naturally appear, there
would advance nothing but strong wood shoots; so that the trees
would be continually crowded with useless and unfruitful wood.

When, however, there is at any time a supply of wood wanted,
then shortening particular shoots may be proper, as observed above
for the apples and pears.

Genen'ol Observations in Pruning all the above Trees.

I observed above, that shortening the branches of apple, pear,
plum, and cherry trees, was not proper in the general course of
pruning; it, however, in some particular cases, is most necessary;
for which take the following hints:

For example, when the trees, for walls and espaliers particularly,
are about one year old from the budding or grafting, either in the
nursery, or newly planted against walls or espaliers, with their first
shoot immediately from the budding or grafting, at full length, it

Jan.] the FRUIT GARDEN. 29

is proper to shorten or head down these shoots near the insertion
of the bud or graft, to force out lateral branches, which is called
heading down the trees; but this should not be done till February
or March, catting them down to four or five eyes; which will pro-
cure a production of lateral shoots near the head of the stock from
these remaining lower eyes or buds, the following summer, in or-
der for training in accordingly, that the wall or espalier may be
regularly furnished with branches from the bottom. After this, the
branches are to be trained along at their full length, except it ap-
pears necessary to shorten some or all of these lateral shoots, in
order that each may throw out also two or three lateral branches to
furnish that part of the tree more effectually; training the said la-
teral shoots also at their full length; but if there appear to be still
more branches wanting, some of the most convenient of these last
shoots may also be shortened, to promote their producing a farther
supply of lateral branches, sufficient to give the tree its proper
form; for the great article in this training-pruning is to encourage
and assist young wall and espalier fruit-trees in their first two or
three years' growth, to produce shoots in proper places, so as to
cover the wall or espalier regularly with branches, from the bottom
to the top.

But when the trees have acquired branches enough to effect the
first proper formation of the head, they will afterwards naturally fur-
nish further supplies to cover the wall or espalier regularly every
way, to the allotted extent, without any farther shortening, except
on particular occasions, when a vacancy happens in any part, ac-
cording to the rule mentioned, in the article of apples and pears.

There is one thing farther to be observed in pruning apple, pear,
plum, and cherry trees; and that is, when the trees have acquired
branches enough to cover the wall or espalier, at the distance above
mentioned, then all those young shoots of the last summer's growth,
that are not wanted in vacancies to form new bearers, must be cut
off quite close to the place from whence they arise, leaving no spurs
but the fruit-spurs that are naturally produced, which every branch
will be plentifully furnished with, if the above rules are observed.

Peaches, JVectarines, and Jipricots.

In the training and pruning of peaches, nectarines, and apricots,
little or no difference is to be observed; they all produce their fruit
principally upon the young shoots of the former summer, the fruit-
blossoms rising directly from the eyes of the shoots; a plentiful
supply of which, must be reserved annually in every part, to train
in for bearing: they also sometimes bear on the small natural spurs
arising on the two or three years' wood, which generally occur
more frequently in the apricots; and all such spurs should be care-
fully preserved, for they generally bear good fruit; keeping in
mind, however, that the young yearling shoots are to be considered
as the general bearers: observing, that as the general branches and
bearing shoots are to be trained to the wall or espalier horizontally,
about three to four or five inches distance, we must prune out an-

ao THE FRUIT GARDEN. [Jan.

nually all superabundant shoots, or that are more than can be trained
in with proper regularity; likewise a considerable part of the old,
or two last year's bearers; and, observing, that as a general supply
of the best of the last year's shoots must annually be left in a regu-
lar manner in every part of the tree, to bear the fruit the succeed-
ing summer, each of the said shoots must be shortened more or less,
according to their strength, now in the winter pruning, as directed
below, in order to encourage them to produce a more regular suc-
cession of bearing wood in the ensuing summer. The wood, which
is then produced, will bear fruit in the summer after tliat; and the
same shoots both bear the fruit and a supply of successional shoots
at the same time for future bearers, Sec.

Before you begin to prune, in these trees particularly, it is pro-
per generally to unnail and unbind all the young shoots which were
nailed or bound, in last summer, and great part of their respective
mother branches; by which means you will have room to examine
the shoots, and to use your knife properly.

In the course of pruning these trees, be careful to select the most
promising and best situated shoots at the above distances, in a regu-
lar manner, advancing, as it were, one after another, in every part
of the tree, making room for them, by cutting out all the other use-
less or unnecessary shoots, together with a proportionable share of
the former bearers, before intimated, and old naked branches not
furnished with bearing wood.

For example, you are to observe, that these young shoots are, as
above hinted, produced principally upon those shoots, which were
laid in last winter, and which produced the fruit last summer; and
some casually on the older wood; but shall suppose many of the said
shoots, or branches, which were laid in last winter, to have produced
each three shoots in summer, and that they now all remain, but that
there may not be room to lay in more than one of the said shoots on
each of the branches; it remains to be considered, which of these
thi'ee shoots on each branch is proper to be left; whether the up-
permost, middle, or lower of the three: there is no general rule
for this, but we will suppose the middlemost; in which case, cut off
the lower one quite close to the branch, and then that part of the
branch which hath the upper shoot upon it, must be pruned down
to the middle one; so that there is only the middle shoot now re-
maining, which terminates or makes the end of the branch: but, if
it is thought most convenient to leave the uppermost of the three,
the middle and lower are to be cut away close to the branch: or,
on the contrary, if the lower shoot only is to be left, cut off the
branch with the middle and upper shoot thereon, close to the lower
one: and if thought most proper to leave in any place two out of
the three shoots on a branch, then the upper and lower are appa-
rently most proper, provided they are the best shoots, and so cut
out the middle ne: or if two lower shoots appear best for your pur-
pose, cut off the upper part of the branch with the top shoot close
to the middle one; and, if to retain the two upper shoots, prune
out the lowermost: there may not always happen to be just three
young shoots on every year's branches; but I choose to menliou

Jan.] the FRUIT GARDEN. 31

that number, that I rriay be the better able in this small compass,
to explain and convey some idea of the mcthotl practised in pruning
these sorts of trees.

At the same time, observe, in the abo\'e general pruning, to re-
tain the most promising well-placed shoots, of the best middling,
or moderately strong growth, and which appear the most fruitful,
or likely lo furnish a proper supply of blossom-buds; rejecting
very weakly slender shoots, and such as are very long-jointed, like-
wise uncommonly thick spongy growths, as also remarkably rank
luxuiian's, cutting them all clean out; likewise the foreright and
others ill placed, that could not be trained with proper regularity.
And, as you proceed, cut out some considerable part of the past
be<>reis of the last, or two or three preceding years, to make room
for the above young supply; pruning them down to some eligible
lateral shoo s, or some occasionally to their origin, as it may seern
expedient: also take out casual old naked branches, advanced of
some considerable length, without being now furnished with lateral
young bearers, or fruitful shoots, eligibly placed for training where
wanted; pruning them either entirely out to make room for the
more fruitful wood, or pruned down, more or less, to any more
prolific well- placed young branch proceeding therefrom, and that is
furnished with young shoots for bearing.

Next let it be remembered, that as you proceed in pruning these
trees, most of those young shoots that are left to beat, must be
shortened, csperially the smaller and middling, and those of mode-
rate growth, both to strengthen them in their future production,
and to promote their producing more certainly a supldy of succes-
sional lateral shoots next summer, properly situated, so as to conti-
nue every part of the tree always well furnished with bearers; for
without this precaution of shortening the shoots, many of them are
apt to run up, producing laterals only, mostly towards the upper
part, leaving the bottom naked; whereby the tree in time becomes
devoid of bearing shoots below; so that the shortening should be
performed, more or less, according to their strength, and that of
the tree in general. Though with standard trees of these kinds,
shortening the shoots is not necessary, yet when trained to walls or
espaliers, it certainly is; for the reasons above assigned.

For instance, if a tree is weak, or but a moderate shooter, gene-
" rally leaving the shoots about five or six inches apart, for training
in nearly at that distance, let them be shortened according to their
strength; some of the weaker shoots to five, six, or eight inches,
others of stronger growth, to about ten or twelve, to fifteen or eigh-
teen inches long; for the shortening should always be performed,
more or less, according to the different shoots, and, in some degree,
according as the blossom-buds appear situated higiier or lower oft
the respective shoots; never shorten below all the said buds, in those
shoots designed |)rincipally for bearing.

When a tree is in a moderate good condition, neither very vi-
gorous nor weakly, but a middling strong shooter, the shoots may
be left nearly about three to four or five inches asunder, and should
be shortened rather less in proportion than the foregoing, but agree-

32 'A'HE FRUIT GARDEN. [Jan.

able to the same rules in shoots of different growths; pruning some
to about eight, ten, or twelve inches, others to fifteen or eighteen
inches long, or more, according to their strength and situation in
different parts of the tree, as well as, in some cases, the apparent
situation of the blossom-buds, in being placed higher or lower on
the respective shoots selected for bearers, as before observed.

But when any trees are of very vigorous growth in their general
shoois, they must be shortened but moderately; or some shoots
very little; in which some of the less vigorous may be cut to about
twelve or fifteen inches; but in stronger shoots prune off only about
one third or fourth of their length, or some of the most luxuriant
left mostly at their full length: for if the strong shoots of a general-
ly vigorous tree were to be much shortened, it would occasion
their shooting still more luxuriantly to rampant unfruitful wood;
therefore the vigorous shoois should be very moderately shortened;
and where they are gen'^ral in a tree, it is adviseable both to leave
them closer and of much greater length than the shoots in mode-
rate growing trees, that the exuberance of sap may be expended in
the larger extent and expansion of wood, and the tree thereby in
time become a more moderate shooter and a good bearer.

Observe, however, in shortening the shoots in general, both in
trees of moderate, middling, and strong growth, that in those shoots
adapted for principal bearers the ensuing season, should be careful
not to cut away too low, or below all or most of the blossom-buds,
or parts where they are expected to advance, being generally dis-
tinguishable from the leaf or shoot-buds by their round, plump,
swelling appearance, the others being oblong, narrow, and flattish;
and therefore should give proper attention to shorten accordingly
in the shoots where the fruit-buds are apparent.

Likewise observe, that in shortening the bearing shoots or others
of those trees, they should generally, where practicable, be cut to
an eye or wood-but that is likely to produce a shoot for a leader
the ensuing season; the shoot-bud-eycs being distinguishable
from the fruit or blossom-buds, by their longer, flattish form, the
others being roundish, swelling, and turgid; or may also, occasion-
ally, prune to an eye haying one or two blossom-buds, as frequently,
from the same eye, shoot-buds are also formed on one side of the
single or between the two twin blossom-buds aforesaid, and from
which a good leading shoot will be most likely produced, which is
necessary to the welfare of the fruit: for where a leading shoot is
produced at or near the extremity of a bearing branch, it draws nou-
rishment to the fruit more effectually.

After having pruned one tree, let it be directly nailed or bound
as you go on; observing to lay in the branches and shoots horizon-
tally, perfectly straight, and parallel to each other at the above
mentioned distances, nailing them all close to the wall, or tying
them to the trellis in a neat manner.

Frune Gooseberry and Currant Trees.

Gooseberries and currants bear both on the young one or two
vears' wood, and upon the several years' branches, generally upon

Jan.] the FRUIT GARDEN. 33

small spurs rising naturally all along the sides; and in each winter-
pruning it will be required to cut out any casual worn out, decayed,
and very irregular branches, and a proportionate supply of last sum-
mer's young shoots retained, and the rest pruned out.

In pruning gooseberries, let them be always kept thin of branches,
and these not permitted to grow ramblingly across one another,
but all pruned to some regular order, so as the main bearers, or ge-
neral branches and shoots, stand six or eight inches distance at the
extremities; and generally, either keep the middle somewhat hol-
low, or, if permitted to run up full in the heart, keep it thin of
branches, as above advised; so that you will now prune out any
irregularities, Sec. such as casual crowding cross-placed wood, and
any worn out or naked old branches, retaining young shoots, where
necessary, to supply their place; and cut out all the superabundant
lateral shoots of last summer, close to the old wood, only retaining
here and there a good one in vacancies, or occasionally towards the
lower parts, to be advancing to a bearing state, to supply the place
of casual worn out bearers; and generally leave, where practicable,
a terminating or leading shoot to each main branch, either such as
is placed naturally at or near the end of the branch; or, occasional-
ly, where any branch is too long or rambling, prune it down to
some convenient lateral shoot, Sec. to remain for a terminal leader;
and, in both cases, generally leave but one terminal to each branch;
and all those shoots now retained, both lateral and terminal, should
either be mostly left entire, and only shorten long stragglers, and
very bending and reclining growths, occasionally; or, at least by no
means shorten the shoots of these trees too much; for by cutting
them very short, they are made to produce a deal of wood and but
small fruit; and being so full of wood, as to exclude the sun and
free air in summer, the fruit cannot ripen well; and it likewise
renders it troublesome to get at the fruit when fit to gather. Never
clip the trees with garden shears, as is the practice of some ignorant
persons.

Currant bushes should likewise be kept thin and regular, not
suffering the branches to run promiscuously across each other; for
when suffered to grow so irregular and crowding, they produce but
small fruit; and the great thicket of branches excluding the essen-
tial benefit of the sun, the berries will not ripen freely and regu-
lar, with a good flavour; observing therefore to keep the general
branches thin, about six or eight inches asunder, in which, if any
are too crowded or over-abundant, prune out the most irregular;
also any cross-placed branches, and casual wdrn out old bearers, to-
gether with all the irregular-placed and superabundant young shoots
of last summer, preserving only occasional supplies of the most
regular ones in vacancies, and a leading one at the termination of
each branch, agreeable to the rules exhibited above in pruning the
gooseberry bushes; and the general upper shoots may be mostly
shortened more or less, where required to keep the head to a mo-
derate extent, and a compact handsome growth.

Observe in pruning young gooseberry and currant bushes, let
those desie-ned for standards be pruned to a clean single stem, eight,

E

34 THE FRUIT GARDEN. [Ja"».

ten, or twelve inches; and being careful to retain a requisite supply
of the best young shoots properly situated above, to form the head
accordingly, cut out the irregular and ill-placed; and the retained
proper shoots may in some be moderately shortened, especially
stich as run away straggling from the rest; and any proper shoots ad-
vancing below, may be permitted to remain entire till advanced
equal with the others above, 8cc. that the whole may come on as
equally as possible, to form a regular head.

Currants and gooseberries trained against walls, palings, trellis's,
&c. should also have a necessary pruning and regulation in the ge-
neral branches, or as may be required, cutting out the superabun-
dant and irregular-placed shoots of last summer, or any casual too
crowding and disorderly growing older branches, or such as appear
unfruitful, or any of a worn out or decayed state, and all dead wood;
retaining young shoots advancing from below, and in the most
vacant parts, shortened more or less, or left entire, according to
room for extending them; and train the general branches, Sec.
three or four, to five or six inches distance. For more particulars —
see October.

Fig Trees.

rig-tree pruning is advised to be deferred till March or April.,
where see the method explained.

Protecting the Roots of new-planted Trees.

If the weather should now prove severe, it will be proper to pro-
tect the roots of new-planted fruit-trees from being hurt by the
frost, by laying mulch, or long dung litter, on the surface of the
ground; particularly, the choicest of the stone-fruit kinds; as
peaches, nectarines, apricots, and any principal sorts of cherries
and plums.

Raspberries,

If you have neglected to afford the protection directed in Novem-
ber, to your Antnverfi Raspberries^ you should no longer omit it;
especially in those parts of the Union where severe winter frosts
prevail. As to pruning and planting the various kinds, when not
done in October, or November, it will be better to defer this busi-
ness till the latter end of February, or beginning of March; except
in such of the states as the severity of the frost does not interrupt
the tillage of the ground during winter; in which you can perform
this business now with safety, agreeably to the directions given in
October.

Forcing early Strawberries.

Now is a proper time, about the latter end of this month, to be-
g^in to make a hot-bed to raise a few early strawberries; those

Jan.] the FRUIT GARDEN. 35

which are planted now in a hot-bed will produce fruit fit to gather
in March or April.

About the middle or end of this month, provide for that purpose
as much new horse-dung as will make a hot-bed about four feet
high, for one or more three-light frames.

Let the dung be thrown in a heap, and let it lie about eight or
ten days: in that time it will be in good condition to make the
hot-bed.

But in this business, a tan-bark hot-bed, made in a bark-pit de-
fended with a proper frame and glasses, would generally be more
successful in fruiting these plants early.

But, previous to this, there should be a proper quantity of straw-
berry-plants potted, ready to place on the said hot-bed, as directed
in Sefitember.

Having, however, prepared the dung for the hot-bed, make it for
one or more frames, about three feet high, and directly set on the
frame and lights, to protect it from wet, and draw up the heat soon-
er; and when the violent heat is over, lay therein either some dry
light earth, or some waste tanner's bark of a decayed bark-bed, four
or five inches thick; then bring in the plants and plunge the pots
into the earth or tan, up to the rims, and close together as can be,
filling up also all the interstices between with earth. Sec.

When all the pots are plunged, put on the glasses, and keep
them close till the steam arises in the bed, when it will be necessary
to raise them a little behind, to let the steam pass off.

When the plants begin to push, let them have air at all opportu-
nities, when the weather is favourable; for if kept too close, they
will draw up weak, and not blossom well, and the blossoms would
drop off, without being succeeded by fruit: you should frequently
refresh them with a little water, and cover the glasses every night
with mats, and support the heat of the bed by linings of hot
dung.

N. B. In forcing strawberries, the plants may be taking up out of
the natural ground with balls of earth, if not prevented by too hard
a frost, and placed immediately in the earth of the hot-bed without
potting them. However, when it is intended to force strawberries,
either in a common hot-bed, or in the hot-house, it would be the-
best method to plant some bearing plants in pots, in September or
October, and so place the pots close together in a garden frame^
till the time they are to be placed in the hot-bed.

But where there is the convenience of a pine-apple stove, or any
kind of fruit forcing-house or hot-wall, &c. may raise plenty of
early strawberries in great perfection, with but very little trouble:
having some bearing plants ready in pots, place them in the hot-
house, any where near the glasses, giving frequent light waterings^
they will fruit e^rly in great abundance.

Forcing Frames.

The great convenience of forcing-frames, either to force fruits,
or flowers into early perfection, or to preserve during winter, va-

36 THE FRUIT GARDEN. [Jan.

rious kinds of exotic plants, may induce persons of taste, to go to
the expense of erecting such; to whom, the following descriptions
may nut be uninteresting.

A .'orcing-frame is a sort of glass-case, or light building, fronted
with glass-frames, in which to force flowers and fruits to early per-
fection, by aid of artificial heat, either of dung, tanner's bark, or
actual fire.

The general acceptation or meaning of a forcing-frame is, a fixed
erection full to the south sun; the length may be from ten to fifty
or one hundred feet; the width from five to fifteen, and from five
to ten feet high; having an upright back wall, of wood or brick;
and a front of glass work, made sometimes in one continual range
of slope, from near the ground in front to the top of the back wall;
and sometimes with upright glass work, head high, ranging imme-
diately along the front, and from the top of which a glass roof is
carried to the top of the back or main wall; either of which may be
for general use, for the reception of various sorts of flower-plants,
small flowering shrubs, cscule.its, and dwarf fruit-trees. Sec. occa-
sionally, to force into bloom or fruit, in winter, or early in spring
and sunmier; whereby many sorts of the more curious flowers and
fruits may be obtained some months before their natural season,
which will be a great curiosity, and which is eff"ected, as aforesaid,
by aid of dung, bark, or fire heat; the first, ("dung heat) both by ap-
plying ilie dung principally against the outside of the back wall, and
by forming it into a bed internally; the second, (bark heat) by form-
ing it into a bed, in a pit withinside; and the third, (fire heat) by
having several returns of flues against the inside of the back wall,
and that of the front and both ends, for the heat to pass along; each
of which are hereafter described: for these kind of frames are of
diffevcTit construction, according to the sorts of plants chiefly in-
tended to be forced; and the materials of heat, as dung, bark, or
fuel, most convenient to be obtained for forcing them; so that the
construciion of each kind of frame is separately explained.

These frames may be employed to advantage in the vicinity of
large towns, for forcing various plants early for market, by the as-
sistance of which you will have for sale, in February, March
and April, various sorts of flowers, fruits, and esculents, that
would not in ilieir natural state of growth have appeared till May,
June or July.

But, for private use, where there is a roomy pine-apple stove, it
may also be used, occasionally, for forcing many sorts of plants,
flowers, and some sorts of fruits, with equal success, suflicient for
the supply of a family.

However, where a considerable supply is required, a forcing-
frame, distinct from the pine-stove, would be more convenient.

In either of these departments may be introduced for forcing,
pots of strawberries, kidney-beans, roses, honeysuckles, jasmines,
and any other flowering shrubs; likewise carnations, pinks, sweet-
williams, wall-flowers, stock-gilliflowers, narcissuses, jonquils, and
early dwarf tulips, and any other desirable flower-plants or roots,
that may be req\ured early for curiosity; also several kinds of curious

Jan.] the FRUIT GARDEN. 37

annuals, and other rare plants. You may likewise have several sorts
of dwarf fruit-trees, as early May, and May-duke cherries, peaches,
nectarines, apricots, figs, grapes, gooseberries, currants, raspber-
ries, &c.

The general construction of each sort of these frames, is explain-
ed under separate heads, according to the materials of heat used in
forcing them, viz. by dung heat, bark-bed-heat, and by fire-heat.

By Dung-heat. — This is not only the most simple and cheapest
kind of forcing frame in its construction, but also considerably thg
cheapest in working, with respect to the article heat, as it may
be forced effectually by substantial linings of hot dung against the
back and ends.

This frame is formed with an upright back and ends of pine
planking, and a sloping front of movable glass lights; the length
may be ten, twenty, or thirty feet, or more; the width, from three
to five, and five or six high: the frame work should be of two inch
pine planking, tongued, and closely joined, that no steam from the
dung may penetrate into the frame; raised five, six, or seven feet
high behind, and but ten or twelve inches high in front, raising
both ends answerable to the front and back; the glass-work to range,
from the upright in front, sloping upward towards the back wall,
to about a fool width at top, there resting the ends upon proper
frame work of wood; and bars or bearers, three inches width, must
range sloping from the back to front, for the support of the lights,
as in common hot-bed frames, and the top of all to be boarded wind
and water tight; within-side rpay be two or three ranges of narrow
shelves along the back and ends, for pots of small plants, and the
bottom levelled, on which to place pots of lai-ger kinds; or you may
have shelves rising one behind another, quite from the front half
way up the back; so may place the lowest plants in front, the
others in order behind them, rising gradually to the tallest in the
back row.

From the above general sketch, you will easily form an idea of
the proper construction of a dung-heat forcing-frame; which you
may improve as you shall see convenient.

This kind of frame may be used with good success where dung
is plenty, and easily obtained; particularly for forcing roses, or any
other small flowering plants, whose flowers have merit in beauty
or fragrance: — you may also try pots of dwarf-cherries, peaches,
&c. also pots of gooseberries, currants, and strawberries, carnations,
pinks, and the like; having all the sorts in pots separately, and in
which they are to be placed in the frame.

The season to begin to work this frame is January and February,
and may he continued occasionally till May; but for any kind of fruit
trees, the beginning of February is time enough, though those
plants of any kind that are designed to be forced, may be placed in
the frame a month or two before forcing time, to be occasionally
protected with the glasses in hard frosts; but at other times, let
them enjoy the full air till you begin forcing.

The method of working this frame is thus: after having placed
the pots of plants in regular order, the tallest behind, and the lowest

88 THE FRUIT GARDEN. [Jan.

in front, &c. tHen put on the lights, and having sufficient quantity
of fresh stable-dung, full of heat, prepared as for common dung
hot-beds, let it be piled up close against the outside of the back and
ends a yard wide at bottom, drawing it gradually into a foot
width at the top of the frame, finishing it somewhat sloping, to
throw off wet; observing, that according as the dung settles or
sinks down, a fresh supply must be added at the top, to maintain
the lining to the full height of the frame.

This lining will effectually throw in a fine growing heat, and
soon set all the plants in motion; observing to give air in the mid-
dle of fine days, by sliding one or more of the lights a little down;
especially when the plants begin to push; give also moderate wa-
tering occasionally in mild sunny weather, and cover the glasses in
cold nights with mats.

In three or four weeks, when the heat begins to decrease considera-
bly, it must be renewed, either by entire fresh dimg, or if new dung
is scarce, by shaking up the old, taking the worst away, and mix the
remainder with a due quantity of new, working the whole again in
a pile close against the back and ends as before, which work must
be repeated every three weeks or month, or as often as you shall
see occasion; for the heat must be constantly preserved to a regular
brisk temperature.

A frame of the above construction may be appropriated entirely
for fruit trees, planting them in a border prepared within the frame
against the back part, and trained in the manner of wall-trees to a
trellis, ranged five or six inches from the back erection; in which
may be planted early dwarf-cherries, peaches, nectarines, apricots,
grapes, figs, currants, &c. so may be worked by dung-heat against
the back of the frame as above directed; beginning in February,
and continuing the glasses on, as well as support the dung-heat
until May; and there is no doubt, with good n:\anagement, but that
the different sorts of fruit may be brought to perfection early.

But a dung-heat Forcing Frame may be constructed of more ca-
pacious dimensions, to admit of making a substantial hot-bed of
dung internally, both to produce an increased degree of heat, and
wherein to plunge pots of several sorts of flowering and esculent
plants to bring them forward in growth, being assisted also with a
lining of hot dung applied to the exterior of the back part of the
Frame, as explained in the foregoing: and for the internal hot-bed
should form a bottom pit of proper width, length, and depth, making
the bed therein a yard depth of good hot dung, covering the top
with light dry earth, or old, or new tan-bark, six or eight
inches tliick, in which to plunge the pots of flowers, or those of
early esculents, such as kidney-beans, peas, strawberries, sallad-
ng, Sec.

By Bark-bed heat. — This kind of forcing frame, or rather forcing-
house, is worked by aid of a tanner's bark hot-bed, formed in a pit
within-side the whole length.

This frame may be formed either of wood or brick-work, and
fronted, 8cc. with sashes of glass like the former; the length may
be ten, twenty, or thirty feet, or more; eight or ten wide, and six or
eight high: and may be constructed either nearly like the dung-

Jan.] the FRUIT GARDEN. 39

heat frame, six or eight feet high behind, and one in front, the ends
conformable, and sloping frames of glass-work raised from the
front, sloping either quite to the top of the back-wall, or to incline
only about one half towards that part, meeting a covered roof at top,
half way, which should be raised high enough in front to throw the
water off behind, as well as to admit as much sun as possible to
every part of the frame; or it may be constructed with an upright
front of glass, head high, and a sloping roof of glass work, ranging
from the upright front to the top of the back wall, which is rather
the most eligible form, both for convenience and benefit of the
plants; either of which constructions may be erected detached, or
against a south wall already built, which will serve for the back,
and save some expense; the ends may either be of wood or brick,
and the glass-work in every part should be made to move on and off,
as well as to slide backward and forward to give air, and to do other
necessary work; and at one end, near the back wall, may be a door
to enter occasionally; and within-side must be a pit for the bark-
bed, three feet deep, part sunk, and the greater part raised, conti-
nued the whole length and width, except about a foot and half alley
to go in to perform the necessary culture, as well as to view and
gather the produce of the different plants.

The pit within is to be filled with new tan any time in winter or
spring, you intend to begin forcing, though January is soon enough,
and the beginning of February is not to late; the bark will support
a growing heat three months, and if then stirred up to the bottom,
will renew its heat, and continue it two months longer.

In this frame may plunge in the bark-bed pots of roses, or any
other choice flowering shrubs you would force into an early bloom;
likewise may place pots of strawberries towards the front and top
glasses; and pots of kidney-beans and early dwarf peas may be placed
in any part of the frame; also pots of dwarf fruit-trees, before men-
tioned, pots of double pinks, carnations, and any other moderate-
growing fibrous-rooted perennials, as well as any sorts of bul-
bous or tuberous-rooted flowers, as narcissuses, jonquils, tulips,
anemones, ranunculuses, hyacinths, and various other sorts.

The heat of the bark-bed will efl'ectually warm the earth and in-
ternal air sufficiently to forward any sorts of hardy flowers and
fruits to perfection at an early season; observing, that, although
they do not always flower and fruit so abundantly as in the full
ground, yet, if there are but a few of any sort, a month or two before
their natural season, they, if for sale, will sufficiently pay; and if
for private use, they will always be acceptable as a rarity and cu-
riosity in the family.

Fresh air must be admitted in fine sunny days at all opportuni-
ties, by sliding some of the glasses more or less open, keeping
them close at night; and in very severe weather, the glasses must
be covered with mats, or closed with sliding shutters made for that
purpose, particularly at night; which trouble might be avoided if
there was a fire-flue, by which heat could be introduced to counter-
act the extreme rigour of the frost, when necessity required.

When the heat of the bark declines considerably, do not omit

40 THE FRUIT GARDEN. [Jan.

forking it over to the bottom, Tvhich will revive the decaying heat
six or eight weeks longer.

A bark-heat forcing-frame, nearly of the above dimensions, might
be contrived entirely for forcing fruit-trees, having a border within-
side along the back wall, three or four feel wide: there plant young
bearing dwarf fruit trees, of any sorts before mentioned, at six or
eight feet distance, in the manner of wall or espalier trees, training
them also in the same manner as directed for the respective sorts in
their natural state of growth. The bark-pit should here be almost
half sunk; and in the beginning of February fill the pit with new
tan-bark, which will soon set the trees into bloom, and will ripen
their fruit early.

But the most eligible general forcing-frame for various sorts of
plants, is one of the above mentioned construction, having also flues
for fire-heat; the walls must be of brick work, having two or three
returns of flues formed of tlie same materials, running the whole
length of the back wall within, and one or two along the front and
ends, by which to convey fire -heat occasionally in severe frosts, cold
nights, and in all very cold and intemperate weather; which will
be a great improvement in very early forcing, so that this kind of
frame will be nearly of the plan of a stove or hot-house.

In default, however, of any of the above kinds of bark-heat forc-
ing-frames, one might be effected by a common bark-pit, made in
any dry sheltered situation, with a brick wall, to any convenient
size, and covered with glass-lights. This pit is to be principally
above ground and filled with good fresh tan to the depth of four
feet, in which you may plunge pots of roses, or any other shrubs;
any sort of low herbaceous flowering plants, fibrous, or bulbous
rooted; kidney-beans, strawberries, &c.; observing however, that in
severe frost, the wall of this pit must be protected by hot-dung,
leaves, or straw, in order to prevent the frost penetrating into the
bed, and it must be carefully covered with mats at night, and even
in the day time in very severe weather.

Bij Fire-heat — This kind of forcing-frame is worked by actual
fire, burned in a furnace behind, at one end or middle, from thence
communicating the heat by internal flues or funnels, running the
whole length of the back wall in three returns, one above another,
and continued in a flue round the front, and the frame thus con-
structed, is often employed for ripening several of the more valua-
ble fruit-trees at an early season; or for forwarding such to perfec-
tion, which do not ripen freely without artificial aid.

This frame, or forcing house, must be formed of brick-work, at
least the back or main wall, for the convenience ol having fire and
flues, and the whole front, 8tc. must be glass, like the other sorts;
the length may be from twenty to forty feet, or more, though one
fire will not warm more than that lengthy the width may be from
five or six, to twelve or fifteen feet, and height eight or ten. It may
be contrived either of moderate width for one row of trees only,
to range against the back wall; or may be capacious enough to have
a range of trained wall-trees behind, as just mentioned, and some
small half standards, ranging also from the back to the front.

THE FRUIT GARDEN. 4|

If it is therefore intended to have a narrow Frame for only a row
of trained trees behind, the width from four to five or six feet is
sufficient, having the back or main wall formed of brick or stone,
as aforesaid, eight or ten feet hi.ti;h, with several flues withinside,
returned over each other, cunninii^ the whole length of the wall;
in the front must be a low wall a foot high, on which to lay a plate
of timber, and from which are ranged glass frames or lights in one
continued slope to the top of the back wall, there received into pro-
per frame work; but for the greater convenience, the lights may
be in two tiers or ranges, an under and ujjper tier, the upper range
made to slide up and down over the others, but so as all the glass-
work can be moved away occasionally, to admit the full air to the
trees after the work • of forcing; the whole boitom space within
this frame must be of good loamy earth, or any good garden
mould, tw'j spades deep, which must be dug or trenched in tiie com-
mon way; then plant a range of irees behind, towards the wall,
and two or three yards asunder, erecting a trellis behind them,
upon which to train the branches as against a wall or espalier; be-
sides these trees, there may be other inferior plants set in the bor-
der or in pots, in front of the trees, as strawberries, dwarf kidney-
beans, dwarf peas, he. dwarf roses, or the like, that will not rise
high enough to shade the fruit trees in the back range.

A fiame of this construction, forty feet long, may be worked by
one fire; but if longer, two furnaces for fires will be requisite.

But to have a more capacious Frame both for trained trees and
low standards, it may be of any length from twenty lo fifty feet or
more, but must be ten or fifteen feet wide, having an upright back
wall of brick ten feet high, with flues as above directed, and a low
wall in front one or two feet high, on which is erected upright glass-
work, four or five feet perpendicular, and from the top of these, a
sloping roof of glass frames, continued to the top of the back wall,
supported upon proper bearers three feet, or three feet six inches
distance, having the top glasses in two ranges, an under and upper
range, as before advised, both of which, and those of the upright in
front, made to slide, and move away occasionally: in this frame
there will be I'oom to walk under the glass-work in any part, and
there will be also due I'oom for the trees, both dwarfs and low stand-
ards; and then having the whole ground space withinside of loamy,
or other good earth, as in the other frame, you may plant your
trees, some in one range against the back wall, as peaches, necta-
rines, apricots, grapes, figs, Sec. six or eight feet asunder, erecting
a trellis, for training them upon; and in front of these may
be planted rov/s of young cherries, both in small standards, half
standards, and dwarfs; the full standards to have about five feet
stems, the half standards three or four, and the dwarfs, one or two
feet stems; each sort, both trained trees and standards, to be plant-
ed when about from three to four or five years old, as soon as they
acquire a bearing state, with regular heads of two or three feet
extent, at first planting. Having procured the trees, and the ground
ready for their reception, may then plant one range of the choicest

F

42 THE FRUIT GARDEN.

sorts as before noticed, next the back wall, two or three yards asun-
der, the others in rows from back to front, at six or eitjht feet dis-
tance, the tallest behind and the lowest in front, at three or four feet
distance in each row, making each row range against the intervals
of the trained trees behind; or if they are all standards, and half
standards, ihere will be more room for several sorts of smaller
plants tmder them; and as their branches will be nearer the top
glasses, it may be of particular advantage; and in the intervals may
be pLnted some low currants, gooseberries, raspberries, strawber-
ries, dvvarf-btans, kidney beans, Sec. But a frame of these dimen-
sionb is sometimes planted entirely with standards, more particu-
larly cherries, as beiog rnore moderate shooters and soonest arrive
to a bearing state, so as to bear any tolerable quantity of fruit;
planting them five or six feet distance: sometimes standard plums,
apricots, peaches, and nectarines are also planted, and vines to train
up under the glasses.

A Frame of these dimensions, twenty-five feet long, may be
worked by one fire; but if more than thirty feet in length, two
furnaces for fires, with each its set of flues, will be necessary.

With respect to the age of the trees for both the above kinds of
fire- heat forcing frames, they should be from three to four or five
years old, with regular heads of branches, two or three feet extent,
and just arrived at a tolerable bearing state; no very vigorous shoot-
ers must be admitted, but such only as assume a moderate regular
growth, and are trained in the nursery until they have acquired a
proper size, each as directed under its respective head, whether as
Wail trees or standards; they are to be transplanted into the Frame
in October or N.vcnnber to remain for forcing; but should be per-
mitted to have a year or two's growth here before you begin forcing
them, that they may be firmly rooted; during which time all the
glasses should be entirely away, that the trees may have the full air
till forcing time is nearly arrived; or may occasionally have trained
bearing trees, of small sizes, in pots, if they have been in good
growth for one season at least, and so removed in their said pots
into the frame at the proper season as above.

In both the above kinds of forcing frames, you may also plant
some graije -vines on the outside of the front glasses in the full
grcuml, and their stems trained through holes, and conduct the
shoots along up the inside towards the glass-work to a sort of slight
trellis, keeping the branches quite thin; and they will ripen early
fruit, in great perfeciion.

The season lir beginning to make the fires for forcing the trees
in either of the above described fire-heat frames, is any lime in Ja-
nuary, though about the middle, or towards the latter end of that
month, or beginning of February, is, for the general part, rather the
mosi successiul tiu.e to begin the general forcing to have a good
crop; ior if the tree^ are forced very early, there will be some dan-
ger of their miscarrying; as, if they should come into blossom,
■when severe weather prevails, that air cannot be freely admitted at
intervals, they seldom set any tolerable crop of fruit; therefore,

THE FRUIT GARDEN. 43

by beginning to make the fires about the time above directed, the
trees will be in blossom about the middle of February, when we
may expect some fine sunny days for the admission of a moderate
portion of fresh air, which is essentially necessary to promote the
natural impregnation of the fruit, and improve its free growth; for
if kept too close, they are apt to drop off" in their infant state.

The fires are to be lighted in the furnace every afternoon about
four or five o'clock, and if kept burning till ten or twelve, it will suf-
ficiently heat the flues to warm the internal air of the house till
next TTiorning, when, if very cold, frosty, or cloudy damp weather,
a moderate fire may also be made occasionally; and by no means
force the trees too much, for a moderate warmth will prove the
most successful; and thus continue the fires occasionally till towards
the latter end of April, but less in proportion as the weather grows
warmer.

Fresh air must be occasionally admitted in fine days, by sliding
some of the glasses a little open, and, as the trees advance to blos-
som and fruit, the days grow longer, and the pov/er of the sun
greater, allow a greater proportion of air accordingly. Likewise
give frequent waterings to the borders.

Thus your trees will be in full blossom in February, and some
will ripen fruit in April, particularly cherries, and strawberries;
you may also expect early apricots, peaches, and nectarines in May,
and plums and early grapes in June.

After the fruit of the different sorts are all gathered, the glasses
should be taken entirely away, that the trees may have the full air
during summer; and in December they should be placed upon the
frame again, ready for forcing in January.

With respect to pruning the trained trees, that is those that are
trained as wall trees against the trellis. Sic. they are to be pruned
and trained every summer and autumn, each sort according to its
kind, as other wall trees, and as directed under all their respective
articles; and as to the standards, their requisite pruning is princi-
pally in autumn, to cut out any irregular growth, and thinning out
any crowding shoots, for the branches must be kept thin and regular,
clear of each other, six or eight inches distance; and any stragglers
which extend in length considerably, should be reduced to order;
and as the branches irf general become so long, as to press against
the glasses, or spread too much, they should also be reduced a little,
to preserve them within due compass, observing always, when
shortening the standards, it is necessary to cut to a bud situated on
the outside of the shoot or branch, making the cut on the in-
side.

Every autumn, after pruning the trees, the borders must be dig-
ged carefully one spade deep.

It must be remarked, that the trees in these frames, or houses,
if annually forced, are not so durable nor plentiful bearers, as those
in the full air; therefore, when you shall see any become weak,
sickly, or bad bearers, others should be ready in training, or pro-
cured from the nurseries, to plant in their stead; and in this no
time should be lost.

44 THE FRUIT GARDEN.

But to continue the same trees more effectually in health, and in
a bearing state, some have a double portion of wullinir and framing
planted, but more particularly that of the first described fire-heat
frame, which is sometimes contrived to move or slide along from
one place to another, for one frame-work and glasses to serve two
portions of walling, so that being alternately worl^ed, one part one
year, the other the year after, each portion of trees will have a
year of rest in their natural growth, and will succeed each other in
due Older for forcing, whereby the health and visjjour of the trees
will be belter supported, and each year a greater crop of fruit may
be expected, than if the same trees were successively forced every
year.

Hot Walls.

Hot walls are ranges of brick or stone walling faced with glass,
generally running due east and west, fronting the south and enclos-
ing a space of several feet width, furnished with internal fire-flues,
b.c. wholly for forcing fruit trees to early production. But as hot
walls and forcing-houses are nearly similar in their construction, use,
and general management, to forcing-frames, reference should be
had to that article for their general explanation.

Vineries. i

Various buildings have been contrived, to effect the ripening of
the more choice kinds of late grapes, which cannot be effected in
the open ground, as likewise to force the earlier sorts, so as to have
thein fit for the table in May, June, and July. The constructions
of these kinds of buildings are different, though all answering
the same purpose: some are constructed with flues ranging within
the wall where the vines are trained up; but as the vines would
receive more heat at times by being closer to the wall than is pro-
per, a lattice work is generally detached therefrom, to which the
branches are trained, and the whole is covered with a range of
sloping glass; but, the more common method is, to train them
under the sloping glasses of the hoi-house, or other similarly con-
structed stoves, or forcing-frames; in such places the vines are
generally planted close to the outside, and introduced through
holes contrived for the purpose in the upright timbers of the front-
lights, as low down as can conveniently be done.

In some viiieiies the vines are planted near the front, in the in-
side, and tiiiined up to neai trellis's made for that purpose close un-
der the roof or sloping glasses.

SOUTHERN STATES.

In the southern states, especially such of them as have not se-
vere winter frosts, you may plant apple, pear, pcaih, nectarine, apri-
cot, cherry, and plum trees, both for espaliers and standards: plant

THE ORCHARD. 45

also almonds, quinces, gooseberries, currants, raspberries, and every
other kind of hardy fruit-bearing trees and shrubs, which are usual-
ly planted either in the fruit-garden or orchard.

You may also prune each and every of the above kinds, according
to the directions given in this month, March and October; and in
the two last months, you will find ample instructions, both for pre-
parmg the ground, and planting the various kinds of fruit-trees
above mentioned.

*, THE ORCHARD.

The Orchard is a department consigned entirely to the growth of
standard fruit-trees, for furnishing a large supply of the most useful
kinds of fruit; in which you may have as standards, apple, pear,
plum, cherry, peach, apricot, quince, almond, and nectarine trees;
also mulberries, filberts, medlars, and berberries; Spanish chesnuts,
and Engli.h walnuts; which two latter, are more particularly appli-
cable for the boundaries of /ar^e orchards, in which they will screen
the other trees, from impetuous winds and cold blasts, all of which
are to be arranged in rows, at ihe distances directed in March and
October; in which months you will find ample direciions for raising,
propagating, and planting, the various kinds of fruit trees, necessary
for all the departments.

But sometimes. Orchards consist entirely of apple trees, particu-
larly when apples are wanted in large quantities, for cyder, or whis-
key-making; and sometimes whole orchards of very considerable
extent, of peach trees, when the fruit is designed for distillation;
likewise entire orchards of cherry trees, but particularly within a
moderate distance of large cities and towns, where sale can be ob-
tained for the fruit; pear orchards are also extensive where people
are in the habit of making perry.

A general orchard, however, composed of all the before mention-
ed fruit trees, should consist of a treble or more proportion of apple
and peach trees, because they are considerably the most useful fruits,
particularly the former; as they, exclusive of their use in distilling
and cyder-making, may be continued lor table use, in the different
sorts, the whole year round.

The utility of a general Orchard, or Orchards, both for private
use and profit, stored wiih the various sorts of fruit-trees, must be
very great; as well as afford infinite pleasure from the delightful
appearance it makes from early spring, till late in autumn: in
spring the various trees in blossom are highly ornamental; in sum-
mer the pleasure is heightened, by observing the various fruits ad-
vancing to perfection; and as the season advances, the mature
growth of the different sorts arriving to perfection in regular suc-
cession, from May until the end of October, must afford great de-
light, as well as profit.

46 THE ORCHARD.

But the misfortune is, that too frequently after orchards arc
planted and fenced, they have seldom any more care bestowed upon
them. Boughs are suffered to hang dangling to the ground, their
heads are so loaded with wood as to be almost impervious to sun
and air, and they are left to be exhausted by moss, and injured by
cattle, 8cc.

By a redundancy of wood, the roots are exhausted unprofitably,
the bearing wood is robbed of part of its sustenance, and the natural
life of the tree unnecessarily shortened; whilst the superfluous wood
endangers the tree, by giving the winds an additional power over it,
and is injurious to the bearing wood, by retaining the damps, and
preventing a due circulation of air.

The outer branches only, are able to produce fruit properly; every
inner and underling branch ought therefore to be removed. It is
common to see fruit trees with two or three tiers of boughs pressing
so hard upon one another, with 'heir twigs so intimately interwoven,
that a small bird can scarcely creep in among them. Trees thus ne-
glected, acquire, from want of due ventilation, a stinted habit, and the
fruit becomes of a crude inferior quality.

The trees are very often almost entirely subdued by moss, which
kills many, and injures others so much, that they are only an incum-
brance to the ground, and a disgrace to the country. This evil
may easily be checked, by scraping and rubbing off the moss at
this season of the year, with a rounded iron scraper, Sec. when men
have little else to employ them; and only seek work, in idle, expen-
sive, and unprofitable amusements. Draining the land, if too re-
tentive of moisture, will sometimes prevent or cure moss: or dig-
ging round the trees on the approach of winter, or in spring, and
bringing fresh mould, or the scouring of ponds and roads, or the
rubbish of old walls, well prepared and pulverized, and laid round
them. Whatever contributes to the health of the tree, will cure,
or in some degree mitigate, this and other diseases.

The above considerations ought to induce to an examination of
your standard apple, pear, plum and cherry trees, 8cc. and where
found necessary, to thin their branches, scrape and rub off moss,
cut oft' all dead, or irregularly placed limbs and branches; and also
any luxuriant unfruitful shoots, and such branches as appear to be
in a decaying or cankery state; all of which, must be cut off close
to where they were produced, or to some healthy leading branch,
or shoot; for the bark cannot groiv over a s(u7nji, because there is no
power to draw the sap that way; for which reason, always cut rather
a little within the wood.

Smooth the cut parts, and if the amputations are large, apply
thereto, a light covering of the medicated tar^ below mentioned;
which is to be laid on with a painting brush: if under an inch in
diameter, it is scarcely worth while to go to that trouble, for such
when well pruned, will heal and cover freely.

Be particular to use a saw in taking off all the limbs and brandies
that are too large for the knife, and smooth the cut parts with either
your pruning knife, or a neat draw-knife, which answers belter, for
large amputations.

THE ORCHARD. 47

The medicated tar, is composed of half an ounce of corrosive sub-
limate, reduced to a fine powder, and then put into a three pint earth-
en pipkin, with about lalf a gill of gin, or other spirit, stirred well
together, and the sublimate thus dissolved. The pipkin must then
be filled by degrees with common tar, and constantly stirred till the
niixuire is intimately blended. This quantity will be sufficient for
two hundred trees. Beinti^ of a very poisonous nature, it should not
be suffered to lie carelessly about the house. The sublimate dis-
solves better, when united with the same quantity of the spirit of
hartshorn, or of sal ammoniac. This mixture being apt to rim,
consistency may be given it, by mixing it with either pounded chalk,
or whiting.

The above composition will be found eminently useful, as no worm
of any kind, can live near its influence, and no evil whatever will
arise to the trees from its poisonous quality; it yields to the growth
of the bark, and affords a complete protection to the parts against
the influence of the weather.

A solution of corrosive sublimate, made as directed under the
head Orchard next month, will be found the most effectual wash
that can be applied to peach and other trees, for the destruction of
the worm which so generally annoys them.

Those who wish to apply Forsythe's, or Barnes's compositions,
will find instructions, both for making and applying them, under
the head Orchard in March.

When pruning is judiciously done, fruit trees will come into
bearing sooner, produce more abundantly, and continue in vigour
for nearly double their common age. No branch of your orcJiard
trees should ever be shortened unless for the figure of the tree or
the reasons before mentioned, and then, it should be taken off close^
as before observed, to where it was produced, or to a leading shoot.
The more the range of branches shoot circularly, a little inclining
iipwards, the more equally will the sap be distributed, and the bet-
ter will the tree bear. The ranges of branches should not be too
near each other, that the fruit and leaves should all have their full
share of sun; and where it suits, the middle of the tree should be so
tree from wood, that no branch crosses another, but all the extre-
mities point upwards.

If any of your particularly valuable fruit trees, are partly decayed,
or in a bad state of health, and that you wish to attempt their re-
storation, by judicious pruning, and the application of good com-
position; you must defer it till March, or when the sap begins to
ascend in spring, which will be manifest by the swelling of their
buds; then prune them, and apply the composition as directed in
March.

1 am not an advocate for much doctoring with old decayed or sick-
ly trees, but the reverse; therefore recommend as the most prefer-
able way, to replace such, with young healthy trees, so soon as they
show strong symptoms of decay. Whenever you meet with a tree,
the fruit of which you esteem, propagate it immediately whilst in
health, by budding or grafting, Sec. and if it should afterwards get

48 THE VINEYARD.

into a declined state, replace it with one of the same, or some other
good kind. Never propagate from a sickly tree, if you can well
avoid it; for its disorder will be c.irried with the buds or grafts, and
in all proiiability will nitirriiiiely work their destrucdon.

For the method of pi.tpagaiing fruit trees, ecc. by budding or
inoculation, see the JVursery in July.

THE VINEYARD.

An infant institution of such important national utility as the
cultivation of the Vine, merits the attention aod suppoit of every
lover of his country. The practicability of producing Wine,, iu the
United States, cannot be doubled; the experiment has been made
successfully, in Pennsylvania, Kentucky, and South-Carolina: no-
thing is now wanting, but the liberal and spirited exertions of the
citizens to carry it to such perfection, especially in the midd'e and
southern states; as in the course of a few years, to produce a suffi-
cient supply for home consumption, and in time, a large quantity
for exportation.

Work to be done in the Vineyard.

In severe weather, when other work cannot be performed, pre-
pare poles for the support of the vines; these, for sake of durability,
ought to be made of red cedar, white oak, or chesnut, split and
seasoned, and to be made one inch and a half, or two inches s(|oare,
and six and a half, or seven feet long; pointed at the lowtr end, and
if that part which is to be inserti-d in the ground, and about three
inches above it, say fifteen inches, be dipped in boiling pitch, it
Avill be of considerable advantage; if this is not convenient, let that
part be slightly scorched in the fire, which will prevent their rot-
ting, so soon as they otherwise would. Round poles, such as are
used for hoops, of about two inches diameter will do, but these soon
rot, and will require to be replaced every two or three years; when
the former would last, if made of the heart of well grown timber,
fifteen or twenty years. Sticks of four or five leet long, may also be
made, for the purpose of supporting young vines, during the first
and second years of their growth; alter which they are to be taken
away to answer a similar purpose, and replaced with the tall poles;
those may be made one inch and a quarter square, pointed, and
dipped in pitch as above.
^ You may also at this season cart manure into the vineyard, and
spread it as directed in February,^ repair old fences, and prepare
posts and rails, or boards, for new ones; examine your ploughs, har-
rows, spades, shovels, hoes, mattocks, and all your other tools, and have
such as need it repaired; purchase any new tools that may be want-
ed, and have all your necessaries in readiness for the opening of the
spring.

Jan.] the NURSERY. 49

In such of the southern states, as have mild winters, and early
vegetation, vines may now be pruned, as directed under the head
Vineyard in February, but with them, November would be a much
more eligible time for this work. In the middle states you must
defer the pruning of vines, to the last week or ten days in February,
not later, except in extremely severe weather, but on no accoujit
later than the first week of March, for soon after that period, the
sap begins to ascend, after which, were you to prune them, they
would bleed so copiously from where the wounds were inflicted, as
to greatly exhaust and injure them, and even totally to destroy some.
In the eastern states this work may be done between the first and
tenth of March, according as the spring may be early or late, observ-
ing that it is safer to prune (00 early than too late.

Under the head Viyieyard in March, you will find general instruc-
tions for the different methods of propagating, and cultiva-ing the
vine, both as espaliers, and in the field way; likewise concise de-
scriptions of the various kinds which have been generally cultivated,
either for table use, or making wine; and also, observations on the
kinds most likely to succeed in the various parts of the Union,

THE NURSERY.

Though this is not a period, in which much business can be
done in the Nursery, especially in the middle and eastern states;
it may be well to call attention to that eminently useful depart-
ment; in order, that those who have not yet attempted it, may have
time to consider of its utility, and be determined, when the season
arrives in which it can be commenced.

The many advantages, which every lover of improvement and
planting, may derive from having a Nursery of his own, especially
in such a country as this, where public nurseries are so scarce,
and frequently so remote, as to render it extremely inconvenient
to procure such trees as may be wanted, — the expenses of transpor-
tation to a considerable distance, — the length of time the trees have
to be out of ground and the consequent uncertainty of their growth,
— the hazard of procuring the intended, or even good kinds; ex-
cept the proprietors are men of experience, knowledge, and inte-
grity; are strong inducements to the establishing small and con-
venient Nurseries, in which the owners may raise such kinds of
fruit and forest trees, ornamental shrubs, and other plants as may
be pleasing and profitable to themselves, useful to posterity, and or-
namental to the country.

The raising of thorn-quicks, and other plants, suitable for making
live hedges, ought also to command attention; especially in such
parts of the Union, as timber is getting scarce and dear in; the
planting, and establishing of such hedges, must ultimately be re-
sorted to, and the sooner it is commenced, the better.

G

50 THE NURSERY. [Ja*..

Conscious r f the great utility of such establishments, I shall in
the cou ^' of this work give such ample, and minute instructions,
for the raising and propagation of fruit and forest trees, ornamental
trees aiid shrubs, thorn-quicks, 8cc. Sec, as may lead the most inex-
perienced persons to a complete knowledge of the business;
which may be pursued upon a small, or a more extensive scale, as
it suits.

In ihe Nursery may also be raised, all sorts of hardy herbaceous
plants, both fibrous, bulbous, and tuberous-rooted; for adorning the
flower-garden, pleasure-ground, and to plant for medical use, Sec.

Extent, Soil, and Situation, Sfc.

With respect to the proper extent, or dimensions of a Nursery,
whether for private use or public supply, it must be according to
the quantity of plants required, or the demand tor sale: if for pri-
vate use, from a quarter to half an acre or more, may be sufficient,
which must be regulated according to the extent of garden-ground
and plantations it is required to supply; and if for a public nursery,
for any general cultivation, not less than three or four acres of land
will be worth occupying as such, and from that, to fifteen or twenty-
acres, or more, may be requisite accordii^g to the demand.

With respect to soil for a nursery, the nature and quality of this,
requires particular attention: it ought to be naturally good, for at
lea=t one full spade deep, or if more, the better; always prefer a
loatny soil, of a moderately light temperament, which cannot na-
turally be too good, notwithstanding what some advance to the con-
trary; even though the trees, should afterwards be removed into a
poorer soil. Reason teaches, that young trees growing vigorously
and freely in a good soil, will form numerous and healthy roots, and
when they coine to be afterwards planted in worse land, they will be
able, from the strength of their constitution, and multiplicity of
roots, to feed themselves freely with coarser food. On the con-
trary, young trees raised upon poor land, by having their vessels
contracted, and their outward bark mossy and diseased, will be a long
time, even after being removed into a rich soil, before they attain to
a vigorous state. If the roots of the young plants have not a good
soil, or sufficient room to strike in, there will be little hope of their
furnishing themselves with that ample stock of roots and fibres,
which is necessary to a good plant, and with which every young
tree ought to be well furnished, when removed for final transplan-
tation.

Most of the authors wiio have written on the kind of soil most
suitable for a Nursery, have differed in their opinions, even so far as
to be almost quite contradictory to one another, and the common
opinion is in favour of the soil being the same, nearly similar, or
rather worse, than that into which the trees are to be finally plant-
ed; but this is setting out upon a very wrong principle; for, were
a nursery to be established on a poor gravel, or stiff clay, the plants
raised on such, would be poor, small, hide-bound, starved things, very
unfit for planting in any land.

Jan.} the NURSERY. 54

If an animal was to be only half fed, from its first having life, for
one year, I believe that such would never grow to be of a large
size ot its kind, if afterwards it was put into better keeping; but
suppose it was put to harder fare, it would certainly make a poot
figure. If this same animal had been moderately fed for one year,
and then put into worse feeding, it would have made a better beast.

Some will say that these observations are unnecessary, as the
ground in which fruit-trees are generally planted, is for the most
part good, being particularly selected for that purpose, and that a
soil similar thereto will do very well; granted, provided the ground
be naturally good; but if these people had a large exient of poor
gravelly soil, or stiff" clay, to plant with forest or ornamental trees,
live hedges, &c. would they seek out a similar spot for a nursery,
to raise plants for planting the same? If so, they would discover
their mistake when too late. This is the error I wish to correct,
being very desirous that every attempt towards this kind of im-
provement should prove successful; and in order to effect this, it
is necessary to set out on right principles.

It is very wrong to enrich nurseries with duvg, particularly un-
til it is very old, and almost turned into earth; although many
eminent nurserymen dung their ground very plentifully, yet they
do it with great judgment, and never plant trees until it is well
rooted, and mixed with the mould, so as to be quite incorporated,
and generally take a crop or two of vegetables, before they plant
trees therein.

It is not absolutely necessary that the soil should be exceedingly
rich, nor over carefully manured: a mediun) between the two ex-
tremes is best; such as any good substantial garden-ground; or
good mellow pasture land, having the sward trenched to the bot-
tom, will do very well for the growth of trees.

As to situation, it ought to be somewhat low, but dry, fully ex-
posed to the sun, and free air, and, if possible, where there is the
convenience of water, for the occasional watering of young seed-
lings, and newly transplanted trees, Sec.

As to a small nursery for private use, it may be formed out of
part of the kitchen-garden, if large enough, or some other conve-
nient place; or it may be made somewhere convenient to the plea-
sure-ground, if any; and so contrived, as to lead insensibly into it,
by winding walks, so as to appear to be a part of the same.

Fences, Preparing and Laying-out the Ground.

A fence round the whole ground is necessary: this may either
be a hedge and ditch, or a paling; the former is the cheapest, and
in the end the most durable; though in some places where rabbits
abound, paling fences at first are eligible, for preserving the nur-
sery from the depredations of those animals, which often do great
mischief to the young plants, by barking and cropping them: a
good hedge-and-ditch fence, however, may be made very effectual
against the inroads of both men and brutes; and the most eligible

52 ^'HE NURSERY. [Jan.

plant for this purpose is the haw-thorn; but a paling, or other
similar close fence, either in general or part, would be extremely
useful, against which to train young wall-trees to a proper growth
for garden or espalier plantations.

The ground must then be all regularly trenched one or two
spades deep, according as the natural depth of the soil will admit,
for by no means dig deeper than the natural good soil, being either
one spade, one and a half, or two spades deep.

Then, having trenched the ground, proceed to divide it by walks
into quarters, and other compartments; a principal walk should
lead directly through the middle or some principal part of the
ground, which may be from 6ve to eight or ten feet wide, according
as it shall seem proper for use or ornament, having a broad border
on each side: another walk should be carried all round next the
outward boundary, four or five feet wide, leaving an eight or ten,
feet border next the fence all the way; then may divide the inter-
nal part by smaller cross walks, so as to form the whole into four,
six, or eight principal divisions, which are commonly called quar-
ters.

One or more of the divisions must be allotted for a seminary,
i. e. for the reception of all sorts of seeds, for raising seedling plants
to furnish the other parts; therefore divide this seminary-ground
into four feet wide beds, with foot-wide alleys, at least, between bed
and bed: in these beds should be sown seeds, &c. of all such trees,
shrubs, and herbaceous plants as are raised from seed; and which
seeds consist both of the various sorts of kernels and stones ot fruit,
to raise stocks for grafting and budding; seeds of forest, and or-
namental trees, shrubs. Sec. and seeds of numerous herbaceous pe-
rennials, both of the fibrous-rooted and bulbous-rooted tribes; the
sowing season is both spring and autumn, according to the nature of
the different sorts, which is fully illustrated in their proper places;
and when the young tree and shrub seedling-plants so raised, are one
or two years old, they are to be planted out in nursery-rows into the
other principal divisions; but many kinds of herbaceous plants re-
quire to be pricked out from the seed-beds, when but from two to
three or four months old, as directed for each under their own
respective heads. On the oUier hand, most kinds of bulbous seed-
lings will not be fit for planting out, in less than one or two years.

Anotlier part of the Nursery-ground should be allotted for stools
of various trees and shrubs, for the propagation by layers, by which,
vast numbers of plants of different kinds are propagated. These
stools are strong plants of trees and shrubs, planted in rows three
or four feet distance every way, and such of them as naturally rise
with tall stems, are, after being planted one year, to be headed
down near the ground, to force out many lower shoots conveniently
situated for laying.

And as to cuttings, suckers, slips, off-sets, &c. those of hardy
trees, shrubs, and plants, may be planted in any convenient com-
partment, and in shady borders, &c. and for the more tender kinds,
should allot some warm sheltered situation.

Jan.] the NURSERY. 53

The other principal divisions, therefore, of the Nursery-ground,
are for the reception of the various sorts of seedlinj; plants from the
above seminary-quarters; also for all others that are raised from
suckers, layers, cuttings, &c. there to be planted in rows from one
to two or three feet asunder, according to their natures of growth:
observing to allow the tree and shrub-kinds treble the distance of
herbaceous perennials. Of the tree and shrub kinds, some are to
be planted for stocks to graft and bud the select sorts of fruit trees
upon, and other choice plants, which are usually propagated by
those methods; others are trained up entirely on their own roots
without budding or grafting, as in most forest and other hardy
tree kinds; as also almost all the sorts of shrubs. Here they are
to remain to have two, three, or several years growth, according as
they shall require, for the several purposes for which they are de-
signed in their future situations in the garden and plantations, &c.
which are directed in their respective cultures.

In a complete Nursery it is also proper to allot some dry warm
sheltered situation in the full sun, on which to have occasional hot-
beds of dung or tan, for raising and forwarding many sorts of tender
or curious exotics, by seed, cuttings, suckers, slips, &c. and for
which purposes you should be furnished with eligible frames and
lights, hand glasses, garden-mats, and other relative requbites.

General Mode of arranging the Plants of this Department.

In the distribution of all the various sorts of plants in the nurse-
ry, let each sort be separate: the fruit trees should generally
occupy spaces by themselves; the forest trees, &c. should also
be stationed together; all the shrub-kind should be ranged in
separate compartments; allot also a place for herbaceous peren-
nials: a warm place should likewise be allotted for the tender
plants; and defended with yew, juniper, or privet hedges, or a reed
hedge, 8cc. in which compartments, you may station all such plants
as are a little tender whilst young, and require occasional shelter
from frost, yet are not so tender as to require to be housed lik&
green-house plants, 8cc. so that in such compartments there
may also be frames of various sizes, either to be covered occasion-
ally with glass-lights, or some with mats, to contain such of the
more choice of the above tender kinds in pots, to be nursed up a
year or two, or longer, with occasional shelter, till hardened gradu-
ally to bear the open air fully.

The arrangement of all the sorts in the open grovmd must al-
ways be in lines or nursery-rows, as formerly observed, to stand
till arrived at a proper growth for drawing off for the garden and
plantations; placing the fruit tree stocks, 8cc. for grafting and bud-
ding upon, in rows three feet asunder, if for dwarfs, but standards
four feet; and a foot and a half or two feet in the lines; though after
being grafted and budded, they then commencing fruit trees, &c.
if they are to stand to grow to any large size, they should be al-
lowed the width of five feet between the rows. Forest trees should

54 fHE NURSERY. Pan.

also be placed in rows four feet asunder, and eighteen inches distance
in the rows; varying the distance both ways according to the time
they are to stand: the shrub kind should likewise be arranged in
rows about two feet asunder, and fifteen or eighteen inches distant in
each line; and as to herbaceous plants, they should generally be
disposed in four-feet-wide beds, or large borders, in rows, or dis-
tances from six to twelve or eighteen inches asunder, according to
their nature of growth, and the time they are to stand.

By the above arrangement of the various sorts of hardy trees,
shrubs, and herbaceous plants, in rows at those small distances in
the Nursery, a great nuiiiber of plants are contained within a nar-
row compass, which is sufficient room, as they are only to remain
a short time; and that by being thus stationed in a little compass,
they are more readily kept under a proper regulation for the time
they are to remain in this department.

But in the public Nurseries, they often plant many kinds of seed-
ling trees and shrubs in much closer rows at first planting out, than
the distances above prescribed, not only in order to husband the
ground to the best advantage, but by standing closer, it encourages
the stem to shoot more directly upward, and prevents them expanding
themselves much any where but at top; as for instance, many sorts
of ever-greens that are but of slow growth the first year or two,
such as the pine-trees, firs, and several others; which the nursery-
gardeners often prick out from the seminary, first into four-feet-
wide beds, in rows lengthways, six inches asunder; and after hav-
ing two years growth there, transplant them in rows a foot asun-
der; and in two years after, give them another, and final trans-
plantation, in the nursery, in rows three feet asunder, as observed
above; and by these different transplaniir.gs, it will encourage the
roots to branch out into many horizontal fibres, and prepare them
better for final transplantation, which is the more particularly ne-
cessary in several of the pine and fir kinds, and several other ever-
greens.

With respect to the different methods of planting the various
sorts of nursery-plants, after being raised either by seed, layers,
cuttings, &c. it is performed in several ways to different sorts; some
are pricked out by dibble, especially small seedlings, others are put
in by the spade, either by trenches, slitting-in, trenching, or holing;
and some are drilled in by a spade or hoe.

As to most of the tree and shrub-kind, sometimes the young
seedling-trees and shrubs are pricked out from the seminary by
dibble; sometimes they are put in by the spade in the following me-
thod; first, having set a line to plant by, strike the spade into the
ground with its back close to the line, and give another stroke at
right angles with it: then set a plant into the crevice made at the
second stroke, bring it close up into the first made crevice even with
the line, and press the mould close to it with the foot; then pro-
ceed to plant another in the same way, and so proceed till all are
planted. A second method is for plants with rather larger roots:
strike the spade down with its back close to the line, as aforesaid,

Jan.] the NURSERY. 55

and then with a spade cut out a narrow trench, close along the line,
making the side next the line peiiectly upright; then placing the
pldUts upright gainst the back ot the trench close to the line, at
the proper distances, before mentioned; and as you go on, trim in
the earth upon their roo s; when one row is thus planted, tread
the earth gently ail along close to the plants; and then proceed to
plant another row. A third method of planting out small tree and
shrub plants is, having set the line as above, then turning the spade
edgeways to the line, cast out the earth of that spit, then a person
being ready with plants, set one in the cavity close to the line, and
directly taking another such spit, turn the earth in upon the roots
of the plant, and then placing another plant into the second
cut, cover its roots with the earth of a third spit, and so on to
the end: but sometimes, when the roots are considerably larger,
holes are made along by the line wide enough to receive the roots
freely every way, so covering them in, as above, as you go on; oh-
serving always to press the earth gently with the foot close to the
roots, and close about the stems, to settle the plants firmly in their
proper position.

Herbaceous fibrous-rooted plants are, for the roost part, planted
with a dibble, except when the roots are large and spreading, or
such as are removed with balls of earth; then they are more com-
monly planted by holing them in with a garden trowel, or small
spade.

Bulbous and tuberous-rooted plants, sometimes are planted with
a dibble, but many sorts may also be planted in drills drawn with a
hoe. These sorts are also sometimes planted as follows: rake or
trim the earth from off the top of the beds from about three to four
inches deep, into the alleys, then place the roots in rows upon the
surface, thrusting the bottom a little into the ground, and immedi-
ately cover them with the earth which was drawn off into the al-
leys for that purpose, spreading it evenly over every part, so as to
bury all the roots an equal depth

But as to the tender kinds of exotic plants that require occasional
shelter whilst young, many of them should be potted, in order for
moving to a warm situation in winter, or some into frames, he. to
have occasional shelter from frost, by glasses or mats, as they shall
require; hardening them, however, by degrees, to bear the open air
fully m the nursery the year round.

And the most tender kinds that require the aid of a green-house
or stove, must all be potted and placed among the respective plants
of those conservatories.

General Culture of the Plants of this DepaHment.

With respect to the management of the various hardy nursery-
plants; —

Those designed as stocks for fruit trees, should have their stems
generally cleared from lateral shoots, so as to form a clean straight
stem, but never to shorten the leading shoot, unless it is decayed, or

56 J'HE NURSERY. [Jan.

becomes very crooked, in which case it may be proper to cut it
down low in spring, and it will shoot out again; training the main
shoot for a stem, with its top entire for the present, till grafted or
budded.

But in the above nursery culture of the fruit tree kind, some sorts
designed for principal wall or espalier trees, should, when of one
years' growth from grafting and budding, be transplanted against
some close fence in the nursery, either a wall, paling, or trellis, &c.
and their first graft or bud-shoot headed down in the spring, to pro-
mote an emission of lower lateral shoots and branches, in order to
be regularly trained to the fence in a spreading manner for two
years' or more, or till wanted, whereby to form the head in a regu-
lar spreading growth for the intended purpose of garden-trees,
which in the public nurseries in particular, should always be ready
in proper training to supply those who may wish to have their es-
paliers, &c. covered as soon as possible by means of such ready
trained trees.

A similar training, both for wall and espalier fruit trees, may be
practised to some principal sorts in the nursery-rows in the open
quarters of ground, by arranging their branches in a spreading man-
ner, to stakes placed for that purpose.

But for standard fruit trees, they should be trained with a clean
single stem, five or six feet for full standards, by cutting off all
lateral shoots arising below; half standards trained with a three or
four feet stem, and dwarf standards in proportion, by the same
means; and as to the heads of the standards, it may be proper, in
some, to have the first immediate shoots from the graft or bud when
a year old, pruned short in spring, to procure several laterals; in or-
der to form a fuller spread of branches, proceeding regularly toge-
ther from near the summit of the stem, that the head may advance
in a more regular branchy growth.

Forest trees, in general, should be encouraged to form straight
clean single stems, by occasional trimming of the largest lateral
branches; which will also promote the leading top-shoot in aspiring
straight, and faster in height; always suffering that part of each tree
to shoot at full length, that is not to top it, unless, however, where
the stem divides into forks, to trim off the weakest, and leave the
straightest and strongest shoot or branch to shoot out at its proper
length to form the aspiring top, as above.

The different sorts of shrubs may either be suffered to branch
out in their own natural way, except just regulating very disorderly
growths; or some may be trained with single clean stems, from
about a foot, to two or three high, according as you shall think
proper with respect to the sorts, or the purposes for which you design
them in the shrubbery; but many shrubs appear the most agreeable
when permitted to shoot out laterally all the way, so as to be
branchy or feathered to the bottom.

Each species of fruit trees, as soon as grafted or budded, should
have all its different varieties numbered by placing large flat-sided
sticks at the ends of the rows, for which purpose some Nursery-

Jan.] the nursery. 57

men use the spokes of old coach wheels, or any thing about that
size of any durable wood, painting or marking the numbers there-
on, I, 2, 3, &c. on different sticks, entering the numbers in the
Nursery-book, with the name of the varieties to which the number-
sticks are placed; whereby you can at all times readily have re-
course to the sorts wanted.

The same method may be practised to any other trees, shrubs,
or herbaceous plants, especially the varieties of particular species,
when they are numerous, as in many of the flowery-tribe, such
as auriculas, carnations, tulips, anemones, ranunculuses and the
like.

With respect to watering the Nursery-plants; this may be very
requisite in dry hot weather in spring and summer to seed-beds,
and tender seedling-plants while young, and when first planted out,
till they have taken good root; also occasionally to new-layed lay-
ers, and newly planted cuttings in dry warm weather; but as to
hardy trees and shrubs of all sort;:, if planted out at the proper
time, that is, not too late in spring, no great regard need be paid
to watering, for they will generally succeed very well without any:
indeed, where there are but a few, you may, if you please, water
them occasionally, if it proves a very dry spring in April and May;
but where there are great plantations, it would be an almost insup-
portable fatigue, and a great expense.

Every winter or spring, the ground between the rows of all sorts
of transplanted plants in the open Nursery quarters must be digged;
this is particularly necessary to all the tree and shrub kinds that
stand wide enough in rows to admit the spade between; which work
is by the Nursery-men called turningm; the most general sea-
son for this work is, any time from October to the latter end of
March; but the sooner it is done the more advantageous it will
prove to the plants. The ground is to be digged one spade deep,
proceeding row by row, turning the top of each pit clean to the
bottom, that all weeds on the top may be buried a proper depth to
rot: this work of ;tir77z«5"-nz is a most necessary annual operation,
both to destroy weeds, and to increase the growth of the young
Nursery-plants.

In summer be remarkably attentive to keep all sorts clean from
weeds; the seedlings growing close in the seminary-beds must be
hand-weeded; but among plants of all sorts that grow in rows
wide enough to introduce a hoe, this will prove not only the most
expeditious method of destroying weeds, but by loosening the top
of the soil, it will prove good culture in promoting the growth of
all kinds of plants; always perform this work of hoeing in dry
weather, in due time before the weeds grow large, and you may
soon go over a great space of ground, either with a common draw-
ing hoe, or occasionally with a scuffling-hoe, as you shall find the
most convenient.

According as any quarters or compartments of the Nursery-ground
are cleared from plants, others must be substituted in their room
from the seminary, &c. but the ground should previously bo trench-

H

58 THE NURSERY. [Jak.

ed and lie so-nie time fallow, to recruit or recover its former vigour;
givintij it also the addition of manure, if it shall seem proper; and
after being trenched in ridges, and having the repose only of one
■winter, or summer, or a year at most, it will sufficiently recover its
vegetative force, and may be planted afresh.

It will be of advantage to plant the ground, with plants of a differ-
ent kind from those which occupied it before.

The tender or exotic plants of all kinds that require shelter only
from frost, whilst young, as formerly mentioned, and by degrees
become hardy enough to live in the open air; should, such of them
as are seedlings in the open ground, have the beds arched over with
hoops, or rods, at the approach of winter, in order to be sheltered
with mats in severe weather; and those which are in pots, either
seedhngs or transplanted plants, should be removed in October in
their pots, to a warm sunny situation sheltered with hedges, &c.
placing some close under the fences facing the sun, where they
may have occasional covering -vith mats in frosty weather; others
that are more tender may be placed in frames, to have occasional
covering either of glass-lights or mats, &c. from frost; observing
of all those sorts here alluded to, that they are gradually to be
hardened to the open ground, and need only be covered in frosty
weather; at all other times let them remain fully exposed, and by
degrees, as they acquire age and strength, inure them to bear the
open air fully; so as, when they arrive at from two or three, to four
or five years old, they may be turned out into the open ground.
The sorts requiring this treatment, are pointed out under their pro-
per heads, in the different months.

The Green-house kinds of all sorts, or such as require constant
shelter in winter, are to be managed as directed under the article

GREEN-HOUSE.

And the hot-house or stove-plants, or such as require constant
shelter all, or the greater part of the year, together with the aid of
artificial heat, are to be managed as exhibited under the article hot-
house.

Work to be done in the JWrsery.

Young apple and pear trees may now be pruned, agreeably to
the rules laid down in March: though, if your stock of these is
not very numerous; and that you are desirous to have so much work
done out of the way, when the hurry of business comes on in spring;
it will be quite as well to defer doing it till the end of February, or
beginning of March.

Trim up the stems of forest, and other hardy trees, where they
require it; this may be done, when little else can, in the nursery;
for, if it is performed in frosty weather, the trees will receive no
harm by the operation, especially the hardy deciduous kinds.

Carry well rotted dung, or compost, and lay it on such parts of
the nursery as require it. This may be necessary to such parti-u-
lar quarters as have been lately cleared, and that are intended to be
planted again with a fresh stock in autumn, taking off a summer

Jan.] the nursery. 59

crop of vegetables, previous thereto; and when the frost permits,
let it be trenchjed in regularly, one full spade deep at least. If ne-
cessity requires it, this ground may be planted with young trees,
&c. in spring.

In severe weather, when out- work cannot be done, make label-
sticks; and have them in readiness when wanted, to mark ihe va-
rious kinds, and varieties, of fruit and forest trees, shrubs, plants,
&c. which you intend to plant or propagate in spring; the largest
to mark rows of fruit-trees, Sec. should be about the size of a coach-
wheel spoke, and forsake of durability, made of white oak, or some
other good durable wood, with the numbers marked, or painted
thereon; such will last you for several years: small kinds for la-
belling flowers, or the various sorts of small seeds, which you in-
tend to sow, may be made of old or new shingles, or pieces of good
pine, cut and split to such lengths as you desire; form these neatly,
and when you are going to use them, rub one side of the upper end
for about two inches with white oil-colour paint; on which, while yet
wet, write your number, or the name of the plant at full length, with
a black-lead pencil; this will endure any kind of weather, for one
year at least; and be legible for several years, when placed in pots,
with GREEN-HousE, or HOT-HOUSE plants.

Care of tender and young seedling Trees.

Take great care now of all the tender kinds of seedling trees,
shrubs, and other young plants of similar quality, raised from seed,
or by other means, last year or before; many kinds will, in hard
frost, need shelter, particularly the young seedling plants of the ce-
dar of Lebanon, &c. China arbor vitae, the tender kinds of pines
and firs, and the seedling plants of cypress, and such like kinds of
young seedling ever-greens, which will all need occasional protec-
tion in severe weather: and therefore, at the approach of the first
hard frost, the pots, or boxes, 8cc. containing them, should be remo-
ved into a garden frame, or some other convenience of occasional
shelter, and in the time of hard frosts, the glasses, and other cover-
ing put on; but they must be kept constantly open in mild weather,
when it can be done with safety to the plants.

The tender seedling plants which are growing in beds, and re-
quire shelter in time of frost, should be covered at such time with
mats; first erecting some hoops across the bed, and the mats to be
drawn over them occasionally for defence of the plants.

Likewise some of the more hardy kinds of young plants may be
sheltered in bad weather, by laying some straw, fern, or long dry
litter lightly over them; this will protect the tender tops and roots
from the frost.

But this covering must not be suffered to remain longer than ne-
cessary to defend the plants.

Likewise any curious or lender young ever-greens, &c. that are
planted in pots, should be placed under shelter in severe frost; such
as arbutus or strawberry-tree, magnolia grandiflora, cistuses, China

60 THE NURSERY. [Jak..

arbor vitae, English and Portugal laurels, 8cc. placing them in a
frame, or where they may be defended either with glasses, mats, or
other covering, in rigorous weather.

SOUTHERN STATES.

Dig the ground, if open weather, between the continuing rows
of young trees and shrubs of all sorts.

But previous to performing this work, give any necessary prun-
ing to the shrubs and trees, especially the deciduous kinds; then
let the ground be digged one spade deep; as you go on, trim off
any straggling roots of the trees and shrubs; and in digging, give
every spit a fair turn off the spade, that the weeds on the surface
may be buried properly.

Transplanting of young forest and ornamental trees in the nur-
sery, and where required, may be performed any time this month if
the weather is open, and the ground not too wet.

Particularly deciduous forest-trees, &c. of the hardy kinds, may
be removed any time this month, if mild weather; but this should
not be generally practised to ever-greens, at this season, especially
where smart frosts may be expected to follow.

Prune honey-suckles and roses, and all other kinds of hardy deci-
duous flowering shrubs that want it, training each with a single
stem, and trimming their heads as you shall see occasion; that is,
either to cut out or shorten all straggling shoots in such manner
as you shall see necessary, to keep their heads somewhat to a regu-
lar form.

In open and settled weather you may now transplant, where ne-
cessary, most sorts of hardy deciduous flowering shrubs, both in the
nursery order, and for shrubbery plantations, &c. in a dry soil; but
where the soil is apt to lodge wet, there should not be any planted
therein before February.

Plantations of fruit-tree stocks, for grafting and budding upon,
may be mude at any time of this month, if mild open weather.
IVlany of those raised from seed, &c. last spring, or the year before,
will be fit for this, digging them uj) out of the seed-bed, &c. with
their full roots, and let them be planted in nursery-rows, three or
four feet asunder, and fifteen or eighteen inches distant from each
other in the rows; and when they have attained one, or two year's
growth, in these rows, will be proper for budding and grafting— See
the A'ursery, in October, for the method of planting; that of Marchy
for grafting, and July and jiugusC^ for budding.

You may still make layers in open weather of many sorts of deci-
duous trees and shrubs that you desire to increase.

This work of laying down the branches of shrubs and trees, to
propagate them, is very easily performed; and there are a great
many kinds of trees and shrubs to be increased by this operation, in
the manner following.

In the first place it must be remarked, that the young branches
that were produced last summer, are the most proper parts to be

Jan.] the NURSERY. 61

layed; for these will put out roots more freely than the branches that
are a year or two older Observing farther, that many of the shrub
kinds branching out near the earth, afford an opportunity of lay-
ing them with great facility; but such as run up with tall stems, and
those of the tree kinds, require that some strong young plants,
principally deciduous, with slems one, two, or three inches thick,
be cut down near the ground a year or two before, to form stools
to furnish a supply of shoots near the earth, convenient for laying
therein. Ihe ground must be dug about the shrub or tree that is
to be layed; and as you go on, bring down the branches, and fas-
ten them in the ground with hooked pegs, observing to lay down
all the young wood on each branch into the earth, covering there-
with the body of each layer three or four inches deep, and fasten-
ing each also with a peg, if necessary; and raise the tops upright
out of the earth.

But in laying some hard-wooded trees and shrubs, it is necessary
to slit the layer, by making a gash with a knife on the under-side,
slitting it an inch or more upward; so laying that part in the earth,
keeping the gash a little open, which will greatly assist the rooting,
by promoting the emission of fibres at the cut part. And this may
also be performed to the same advantage in the laying of trees and
shrubs in general.

Or you may give the young shoot a twist, in that part, which
you intend laying in the earth, by which method, it will root more
freely, than if laid down without it.

Those which are layed in this or next month, will be tolerably
well roote^ by next autumn, and may then be separated from the
tree, and planted in the nursery to get strength.

Cuttings of many kinds of flowering shrubs and trees may also
still be planted; and there are vast numbers of plants that may be
propagated by this method. There is hardly any tree or shrub but
what may be increased either by this method, or by layers, or
suckers from the root.

But the manner of propagating trees or shrubs by cuttings, is
this: the cuttings must be young shoots of the last year's growth,
which must be cut with a sharp knife from the tree or shrub you
desire to propagate; they must be from about six or eight, to twelve
or fifteen inches long, according to their strength and manner of
growth; let them be planted in rows eighteen inches asunder, and
from five to eight inches distance in the row; and every cutting in-
serted two thirds of its length into the ground.

Propagate gooseberries and currants by cutdnys, as directed in
October; and prune such of the old plants as require it, agreeably to
the directions given in this, and that month.

In open weather, you should, as much as possible, forward the dig-
ging and trenching vacant compartments of ground, where young
trees and shrubs are to be planted in this and next month.

Now prepare some ground, where it is not wet, for the reception
of stones and kernels of hardy fruits, to raise a supply of slocks, for
the purpose of budding and grafting upon.

62 THE PLEASURE, OR [Jan.

These may be sown any lime this month, observing to sow them
in beds four ieet wide; cover the stones an inch and a half deep with
earth, and the kernels, half an inch: the plar>tswill appear in March,
April, and May; when they must be kept clean from weeds, and mo-
derate watering in dry weather will be serviceable, when they are
newly come up. Some of them will be fit for transplanting in nur-
sery rows next November.

Sow the various kinds of haw-thorn, holly, red cedar, yew, me-
zereon, juniper, sweet bay, English and Porlugal-luu<el l)erries;
likewise, the seeds of hornbeam, ash, spindle-tree, bladdf r-uut, ijnd
all the other kinds of tree and shrub seeds, which require a year's
preparation previous to sowing, as noticed in February. Ihe sooner
now, these kinds of seeds are sown, the better; provided the ground
be dry, and that it nvo^ks loose and light.

For particular instructions respecting the sowing of these seeds,
&c. see February and March.

THE PLEASURE, OR FLOWER-GARDEN.

Ornamental Designs, and Planting.

The district commonly called the Pleasure, or Flower-Garden,
or Pleasure-ground, may be said to comprehend all ornamental com-
partments, or divisions of ground, surrounding the mansion; con-
sisting of lawns, plantations of trees and shrubs, flower ompart-
ments, walks, pieces of water, Sec. whether situated wholly within
the space generally considered as the Pleasure-Garden, or extended
to the adjacent fields, parks, or other out-grounds.

In designs for a Pleasure-ground, according to modern garden-
ing; consulting rural disposition, in imitation of nature; all too for-
mal works being almost abolished, such as long straight walks, re-
gular intersections, square grass-plats, corresponding parterres,
quadrangular and angular spaces, and other uniformities, as in an-
cient designs; instead of which, are now adopted, rural open spaces
of grass-ground, of varied forms and dimensions, and winding walks,
all bounded with plantations of trees, shrubs, and flowers, in various
clumps; other compartments are exhibited in a variety of imitative
rural forms; such as curves, projections, openings, and closings, in
imitation of a natural assemblage; having all the various plantations
and borders open to the walks and lawns.

For instance, a grand and spacious open lawn, of grass-ground,
is generally first presented immediately to the front of the
mansion, or main habitation; sometimes widely extended on both
sides, to admit of a greater prospect, &c. and sometimes more con-
tracted towards the habitation; widening gradually outwards, and
having each side embellished with plantations of shrubbery, clumps,
thickets, 8cc. in sweeps, curves, and projections, towards the lawn,
with breaks or opens of grass-spaces at intervals, between the differ*

Jan.] flower garden. 6$

ent plantations; together with serpentine gravel walks, winding
under the shade of the trees: extended plantations ought also to be
carried round next the outer boundary of the pleasure-ground,
when extensive; in various openings and closings, having gravel
walks winding through them, for shady and private walking; and in
the interior divisions of the ground serpentine winding walks,
and elegant grass openings, ranged various ways, all bordered with
shrubberies, and other tree and shrub plantations, flower compart-
ments, &c. disposed in a variety of difierent rural forms; in easy
bendings, concaves, and straight ranges, occasionally; with inter-
vening breaks or opens of grass-ground; both to promote rural di-
versity, and for communication and prospect to the different divi-
sions; all the parts of the pleasure-ground being so arranged, as
gradually to discover new scenes, each furnishing fresh variety,
both in the form of the design in different parts, as well as in the
disposition of the various trees, shrubs, and flowers, and other or-
naments and diversities.

In designs for a Pleasure-ground, according to modern taste, a
tract of ground of any considerable extent, may have the prospect
varied and diversified exceedingly, in a beautiful representation of
art and nature, as that in passing from one compartment to ano-
ther, still new varieties present themselves, in the most agreeable
manner; and even if th«r figure of the ground is irregular, and the
surface has many inequalities, the whole may be improved without
any great trouble of squaring or levelling; for by humouring the
natural form, you may cause even the very irregularities and natu-
ral deformities, to carry along with them an air of diversity and no-
velty, which fail not to please and entertain most observers.

In these rural works, however, we should not abolish entirely the
appearance of art and uniformity; for these, when properly applied,
give an additional beauty and peculiar grace to all our natural pro-
ductions, and set nature in the fairest and most beautiful point of
view.

But some modern Pleasure-grounds, in which rural design is co-
pied to an extreme, are often very barren of variety and entertain-
ment, as they frequently consist only of a grass-lawn, like a great
field; having a running plantation of trees and shrubs all round it|
just broad enough to admit a gravel walk winding through it, in
the serpentine way, in many short twists and turns, and bordering
at every turn alternately, upon the outward fence and the lawn; which
are continually obtruded upon the sight, exhibiting the same pros-
pect over and over, without the least variation; so as that after hav-
ing traversed the walks all around this sort of pleasure-ground, we
find no more variety or entertainment than at our first entrance, the
whole having presented itself at the first view.

Therefore, in laying out pleasure-ground, the designer ought to
take particular care, that the whole extent be not taken in at one
view; only exhibiting at first a large open lawn, or other spacious
open compartment, or grand walk, &c. terminated on each side with
plantations of curious trees, shrubs and flowers, exhibiting only

|g^4 f HE PLEASURE, OR [Jak

some opens at intervals; and behind these have compartments of
the like plantations, with grass openings, gravel walks, water, and
other ornaments; so that a spectator will be agreeably surprised to
find, that what terminated his prospect, only served as an introduc-
tion to new beauties and varieties.

It is impossible to exhibit any regular direction for planning an
extensive pleasure-ground, as the difterent figures, and situations,
Sec. of the ground, may require different designs, therefore general
hints only can be given.

Sketch of the Design.

The following general sketch may be varied according to the
situation and extent of the ground, and may be useful to persons
who are unexperienced in designs of the kind.

With respect to situation, this must be immediately contiguous
to the mansion-house, whether high or low situated; remarking,
however, that a somewhat elevated situation, or the side or sum-
mit of some moderate rising ground, is always the most eligible on
which to erect the chief habitation, arranging the pleasure-ground
accordingly; such an exposure being the most desirable, both for
the beauty of the prospect, and healthfulness of the air: there are
however some level situations, forming plains or flats, that possess
great advantages, both of soil and prospect, and also the beauties
of water, without too copious damps or moisture; there are also some
large tracts of ground, consisting both of low and high situations,
as level plains, hollows, eminences, declivities, and other inequali-
ties, which may be so improved as to make a most desirable plea-
sure-garden, as the scene may be varied in the most beautiful manner.

The extent of pleasure-ground may be varied according to that
of the estate or premises, and the fortune of the owner; so may
be from even a quarter or half an acre, to thirty, forty or more.

The ground should be previously fenced, which may be occasion-
ally a hedge, paling or wall, Sec. as most convenient.

With respect to the arrangement of the several divisions, the fol-
lowing general sketches are on a supposition of a considerable
tract of ground; and if the piece of ground is small, greater sim-
plicity of design must be observed in proportion.

First an open lawn of grass-ground is extended on one of the
principal fronts of the mansion or main house, widening gradually
from the house outward, having each side bounded by various
plantations of trees, shrubs, and flowers, in clumps, thickets, &c.
exhibited in a variety of rural forms, in moderate concave and
convex curves, and projections, to prevent all appearance of a
stiff uniformity; introducing between the plantations at inter-
vals, breaks or opens of grass-ground, communicating with the
lawn and internal divisions, in some places widely spread, in others
more contracted; leaving also tracts for serpentine gravel-walks,
some winding under the sliade of the plantations, so conducted as
to command views of the luvvn and interior divisions occasionally,

Tan.] flower GARDEN. 65

and at intervals, of the most beautiful parts of the surrounding
country.

This ground must be more contracted as it approaches, near the
mansion, that company may the sooner arrive in the walks of the
shrubbery, wilderness, &c. under the shade and shelter of trees;
but the outward extension on each boundary, should widen gra-
dually towards the extreme termination, to give an air of grandeur,
and admit of a full prospect from and to the mansion.

Each boundary must be planted with a choice variety of orna-
mental trees and shrubs, deciduous, and ever-greens, arranged prin-
cipally in several clumps; some consisting of lofty trees, others be-
ing entirely of the shrub kinds, and some co\!sisting of trees,
shrubs, and herbaceous plants together: in all of which, arrange
the taller growing kinds backward, and the lower forward, accord-
ing to iheir gradation of height; embellishing the front with the
more curious low flowering shrubs, and ever-greei.s, interspersed
with various herbaceous flowering perennials, all open to the lawn
and walks.

In the general arrangement, the great art is to vary the prospect
of the different divisions so as they may variously present an air of
novelty, and source of convenience and entertainment.

Around towards the outward boundary fence, is generally arrang-
ed a plantation of trees and shrubs, in varied easy sweeps, and
broad enough to admit of a serpentine walk, through the whole ex-
tent, under cover of these trees and shrubs, for private and shady
walking; with breaks and openings here and there, to admit of pros-
pects, both to the lawn and surrounding country.

In various parts of the pleasure ground, leave recesses and other
places surrounded with clumps of trees and shrubs, for the erec-
tion of garden edifices, such as temples, grottos, rural seats, sta-
tues, 8cc. and if water from some upper spring or head, can be led
in a winding course, through the lower parts in gentle meanders, it
will have a charming effect.

Other internal divisions appear with an air of grandeur and mag-
nificence, when exhibiting a spacious opening of grass-ground,
bounded by the noblest trees and shrubs, in various elegant clumps,
groves, groups, and straight ranges, and the opening terminated
by some fine open prospect, grand piece of water, or ornamental
building.

Another part shall appear more gay and sprightly, displaying an
elegant flower- ground, or flower-garden, designed somewhat in the
parterre way, in various beds, borders, and other divisions, furnished
with the most curious flowers; and the boundary decorated with
an arrangement of various clumps, of the most beautiful flowering
shrubs, and lively ever-greens, each clump also bordered with a va-
riety of the herbaceous flowery tribe.

Another division sometimes to diversify the scenery, presents a
Wilderness, in irregular partitions of plantations, having interven-
ing spaces of grass-ground, and gravel-walks, extending in various
directions; some by winding mazes or labyrinths, into openings

I

(J6 THE PLEASURE, OR [Jan.

formed in different parts; the boundary plantation of this division,
being c;enerally planted in close assemblage, with serpentine walks
between; some leading in private meanders towards the interior
parts, or breaking out sometimes into other walks that are open
and spacious, both of grass and gravel occasionally; conducted in
serpentine turns, to cause the greater variety; some places being
closely bordered with tall trees, to effect a gloominess and perfect
shade: the different walks leading now and tlien into circular open-
ings, each being surrounded with plantations as aforesaid; making
the principal walks terminate in a grand opening in the centre of
the wilderness, in which may be some ornamental edifice, or fine
piece of water, &c.

Straight ranges of the most stately trees, are sometimes arrang-
ed on grass-ground in different parts, in contrast with irregular
plantations; and produce a most agreeable effect, which though
prohibited in many modern designs, always exhibit an air of gran-
deur; being arranged sometimes in single rows, others doubje, or
two ranges at certain distances, forming a grand walk; in other
parts, several regular ranges of trees together in the manner of
groves; the whole combined, forming a diversity, pleasing to the
senses, and conducive to health, by exciting to the salutary exercise
of walking.

In other parts are sometimes discovered eminences, or rising
grounds, as a high terrace, mount, steep declivity, or other emi-
nence, ornamented with curious ttiees and shrubs, with walks lead-
ing under the shade of trees, by easy ascents to the summit, where
is presented to the viev.', an extensive prospect of the adjacent fields,
buildings, hamicts, and country around, and likewise affording a
fresh and cooling air in summer.

Regular compartments and figures, in various forms, are also
sometimes introduced in some extensive grounds, for variety; in
contrast with the irregular works, and still to preserve some ap-
pearance of the remains of ancient gardening; such as straight
walks, verged with borders of fiowers, 8cc. regular parterres, in
flower borders; square spaces, circles, and octagons. Sec. inclosed
with low clipped hedges; hedgework, formed into various devices;
detached evei -greens, formed into pyramids and other regular
figures; regular grass-slopes, formed on the side of some declivi-
ty or rising ground; elevated terraces, clumps of trees, sur-
rounded with low evergreen hedges; straight avenues of trees,
in ranges, 8cc. a little of each being judiciously disposed in different
situations, may prove an agreeable variety, by diversifying the
scene, in contrast with the rural works before mentioned.

Sometimes a bleak declivity, rocky ground, or rough vale, is
made to exhibit a wild and uncultivated scene, and tends to set off
the improved parts, to great advantage.

Pieces of water are always, where possible, exhibited, in the most
conspicuous points, contiguous to the termination of the main lawn,
or other spacious openings; representing sometimes a lake, bason,
&r, nnd sometimes a natural river, winding its course through dif-

Jan.] flower GARDEN. 67

ferent divisions, and its termination concealed by a curious turn,
making it appear to lose itself in the adjacent plantations.

With respect to the walks, some ought to be made of gravel, and
some of grass; the former for common vi'alking, and the latter for
occasionally walking in the heat of summer; which, in dry hot
weather, may be more agreeable than the gravel-walks; therefore
some of each sort is proper, both for convenience and variety.

Gravel walks, however, should lead all round the pleasure-ground,
and into the principal internal divisions, so as to have dry and firm
walking, at all limes of the year; for frequently, but particularly
in winter, and in wet weather, grass-walks are very uncomfortable
and even unhealthy to walk on. These walks should be of propor-
tional width, in different parts, and larger or smaller in proportion
to the extent of the ground.

As to the distribution of gravel-walks — first a magnificent one,
from fifteen to twenty or thirty feet wide, should range immediately
close and parallel to the front of the house, and be conducted di-
rectly across the lawn into the nearest side shrubberies; from this
main walk, other smaller ones, from five to ten or fifteen feet wide,
according to the extent of the ground, should branch off" at proper
intervals directed in the serpentine way — some leading through
the outer boundary plantations, as already hinted — others into the
internal divisions, and others carried along the boundary plantation
of the main lawn^ all of which walks being conducted through the
diff'erent parts, in order to afford the convenience of shade and re-
tirement occasionally, as well as to enjoy the variety of the trees,
shrubs, and flowers, variously presenting themselves at diff'erent
turnings: for the walks having various sweeps and windings, dis-
covering only a moderate length at once, every turning produces
new varieties, and should likewise be so contrived as at proper in-
tervals, to discover openings for prospects into different principal
divisions of the ground; having in some places the plantation of
trees, shrubs, and flowers, bordering close upon the walks; in other
parts, have on one side of the walks considerable grass-spaces, run-
ning into the plantation, in one or more concave curves, to form the
greater diversity.

In some places the winding of walks should be gradual and mo-
derate; in others, exhibit sudden turns and sweeps — some display-
ing magnificent projections in the plantation — others, spaciousi
openings, bordered with curious plants; in other parts a close thick-
et, which sometimes may seem to terminate the walk, when by a
sudden turn, it breaks out all at once, into some grand open division,
spacious open walk, an avenue, or elegant piece of water, open groves,
&c. And in other parts a walk suddenly divides into two or three
divisions, leading diff'erent ways in gradual sweeps, each separation
being formed by a projecting clump of shrubbery work, or group of
trees, 8cc. and each division of the walk is conducted by such varied
serpentine turns, as soon to be concealed from the other, by the in-
lervening compartments.

Sometimes, similar to the ancient designs, a spacious gravel walk

68 THE PLEASURE, OR [Jan.

is extended in a perpendicular line in)mediately from the front of
the house, dividing the lawn, or extended on both boundaries and
in other directions, with a wide border on each side, either straight
or sometimes a little serpentined, and planted with the most curious
low flowering shrubs, ever greens, and herbaceous flowering plants.

All these gravel-walks should be laid with the best gravel, six or
eight inches deep, at least; but if more the better.

All the open grass-spaces may be considered as grass-walks,
whether formed in the manner of walks, or as breaks or divisions
between the various plantations, all of which serving both for
communication to diff"erent parts, and to render the ground more
rurally ornamental, and for occasional walking in dry weather in
summer; but some tracts of considerable width and length, formed
into grass-walks, leading to difl'erent divisions, having each side
bounded with clumps of trees, shrubs, and flowers, gives an air
of grandeur to the place; allotting smaller breaks, or opens of
grass, branching off between tlie plantation compartments, as for-
merly mentioned.

The grass ground may be formed, either by sowing grass seed,
or by laying it with turf, cut from some common; but in extensive
•works turfing the whole would be an endless expense; therefore
seed is the most eligible for the principal spaces in very large
gardens.

Water being so ornamental in all garden designs, no pains
should be spared to introduce it where possible; but where it ad-
mits of a constant running stream, from some adjacent upper
spring, its beauties may be rendered admirably fine; as it may be
conducted in meanders through the plantation, so as to effect a tieau-
tiful assemblage of verdure and water together; and if it should be
continued to any considerable length, one or more ornamental
Chinese bridges, may be carried over it at convenient places, which
will have a beautiful effect, and serve for communication with the
opposite divisions, on each side of the rivulet.

Cascades, and other water-falls, have also a fine effect, where
there is a constant plentiful stream, and the situation proper to
give the water a due fall, from a higher to a lower part, upon a
parcel of rugged stones, to increase the noise, and break and dis-
perse the water.

In some grounds, by their natural situations, water may be ob-
tained at a moderate expense; as sometimes a contiguous vale, or
meadow, bounded by rising ground, and with a brook or rivulet
constantly running through it, may be easily thrown into the most
agreeable form; and sometimes large springs issuing from an upper
ground, and running down a moderate descent between two rising
grounds, to some vale below, may either form one entire lake,
kc or be contrived, by making proper heads at distances to form
several lakes strung together, as it were, one above another, up to
the beginning of the spring; each head may form a beautiful water-
fall, or cascade; having the rising grounds on each side embellished
with plantation clumps.

Jan.] flower GARDEN. 69

Lakes and artificial rivers may also be contrived in a flat or level
ground, where there are any contiguous brooks that can be conduc-
ted to supply them with water.

All pieces of water should generally be contrived in a natural
imitation, as much as the situation will admit; and its boundary on
all aides should be grass ground to some considerable width, sloped
off as easy as possible, corresponding with the other adjacent grass
ground, to admit of a prospect of the water at some distance.

On the verges of large compartments of water, some Babylonian
or Weeping Willows, disposed in particular situations, singly at
distances, sometimes in concave and projecting parts, terminations,
8cc. will have a very agreeable effect in their long, bending, arched
branches, and numerous pendulous shoots, suspended over the
water, in a loose waving manner, sometimes sweeping the surface
thereof; and when arrived to some considerable growth in their
numerous low pendent branches, suspended all around, display an
air of peculiar solemn grandeur.

The various compartments of ground intended for the different
plantations, should be digged or trenched for the reception of the
plants, particularly for all plantations of shrubbery, and wilderness
quarters, flower compartments, 8cc. and the ground for clumps
should if not thought too expensive, be raised above the common
level, in a gentle swell; especially all detached compartments, such
as shrubbery clumps, and flower partitions; and most other detach-
ed compartments of ground, for any kind of ornamental planting in
gardens. These should generally be raised in a moderate rounding
swell, gradually from each side to the middle; or for any continued
side plantation, it may be raised in a gentle slope; for the swelling
anci sloping figure always strikes the eye the most agreeably, as well
as si)ows thi plants to the best advantage.

But where intended to havegroves of stately trees, or any straight
ranges of trees, either single, or double lines, forming a walk or
avenue, it is most in character to dispose them all on grass ground,
in which they will appear most rural and beautiful.

Likewise elegant ornamental trees, both as single standards, and
in detached groups, or clumps, appear the most beautiful, when dis-
posed on spacious openings of grass ground.

All the plantation compartments of shrubbery, wilderness, &c.
should be planted with some considerable variety of different sorts
of trees, shrubs and flowers, artfully disposed in varied arrange-
ments; the tallest behind, the lowest forward, and the different sorts
so intermixed, as to display a beautiful diversity of foliage and
flowers, disposing the more curious kinds contiguous to the princi-
pal walks and lawns.

Observing, that as trees and shrubs are of two different tribes,
deciduous, and ever-green kinds, those of each tribe should be
mostly planted in separate clumps, in which they will effect the
most agreeable variety; and in some places may exhibit clumps
composed of both sorts, to cause the greater diversity; and many
of the most conspicuous deciduous compartments may be embellish-

70 THE PLEASURE, OR [Jan.

ed towards the fronts, with some showy ever-greens, thinly dispers-
ed; which will appear ornamental and lively in winter, when the
deciduous plants are destitute of leaves.

In planting the several shrubbery clumps, Sec. some may be
entirely of trees; but the greater part an assemblas:e of trees and
shrubs together; some entirely of the low shrub kmd, in different
situations, between, and in front of the larger growths; likewise
should intersperse most of the shrubbery and wilderness compart-
ments, with a variety of hardy herbaceous flowery plants of differ-
ent growths, having also here and there clumps entirely of herbace-
ous perennials: the distribution or arrangement of the clumps, and
other divisions of the different kinds, both trees, shrubs, and flowers,
should be so diversified, as to exhibit a proper contrast, and a curi-
ous variation of the general scene.

And in the disposing the various trees, shrubs, and o'her plants
in their respective compartments, observe for the most part, to
place the tallest towards the middle or back part, and the lower
forward towards the front, according to their natural stature of
growth; observing also to intermix the diff"erent sorts in each
clump, &c in such order, as to display a diversity of different
foliage and flowers, as aforesaid, as well as exhibit a conspicuous
variety. Likewise placing the various sorts at such proportionable
distances and dispositions, according to their various growths, as
each may have full scope to spread its head; and so as the prospect
of one, may be no interruption or laipediment to the growth and ap-
pearance of another, but all so judiciously arranged as to set off each
other, and appear distinct, and to proper advantage from the conti-
guous lawns, walks, and other divisions.

In planting any continued or running plantation, where shady
walks are designed, particular care is requisite in arranging a due
share of the taller trees and shrubs nearer the walks, und in such
order as to produce the desired eflect; particularly in the continued
plantation of shrubbery work around the outward boundary, and
other running plantations.

These plantations for shady walks, are highly necessary to retire
to occasionally, for shelter from the various changes and injuries of
the weather; they afford shade from the scorching rays of the
summer's sun, shelter from tempestuous winds and cold blasts, and
opportunity for private and contemplative walking, almost at all sea-
sons of the year.

But vfhGYt:. very close and gloomy shade is required in any par-
ticular parts for diversity, some trees and tall shrubs, should be
arranged nearer to the verge of the walks, backed and fronted with
a variety of hardy shrubs, in such order as to produce the desired
effect.

The planting in groves and avenues should consist principally of
the tree kind, and such as are of straight and handsome growth,
with the most branchy, full, regular heads, and may be i)oth of the
deciduous and ever-green tribes; but generally arranged separately:
groves and avenues, should always be in some spacious open space,

Jan.j flower garden. 71

formed into grass-ground, either before or after planting the trees;
and in planting the groves, it is most eligible to arrange the trees in
lines, in some places straight rows, others in gentle bendings, or
easy sweeps, having the rows at some considerable distance, that
the trees may have full scope to display their branchy heads regu-
larly around; and in some places may have close groves to form a
perfect shade.

As to avenues and walks of trees, they may be formed either
entirely of deciduous trees, or of cver-greens; but the deciduous
kinds are in most estimation for this purpose: however, avenues
and grass walks, planted with fine ever-green trees, make a beauti-
ful appearance, and will always command admiration. In both sorts,
the trees are most commonly disposed in rows, one on each side of
the avenue; though sometimes grand walks of trees may be both
in single straight lines, and in double rows, to exhibit the greater
variety; planting the trees generally, both in avenues and walks, at
proper distances, to have full scope to branch out regularly around
and display their beautiful heads and loliage.

Thickets may be composed of all sons of hardy deciduous trees,
planted close and promiscuously, and with various common shrubs
interspersed between them, as underwood, to make them more or
less close in different parts, as the designer may think proper.
They may also be of ever-green trees, particularly of the pine
and fir kinds, interspersed with various low-growing ever-green
shrubs.

In some open spaces of grass-ground, such as spacious open
lawns, or other considerable open fields, &c. you should dispose
some of the most beautiful trees and elegant shrubs detached, both
separately as standards or single objects; and in groups or assem-
blages, from two or three, to five, ten, or more in different groups
or clumps; some irregularly, others in curves, straight lines, &c.
for variety; arranging both single standards, and groups, a consider-
able distance asunder, not to obstruct the prospect, and at such va-
ried distances as if they had grown there by chance.

It very frequently happens, that on the spot or tract, which is
designed for a pleasure ground, are found large stately trees of con-
siderable standing, properly situated to be introduced into the de-
sign; and sometimes numbers in suitable assemblages, for consti-
tuting groves, or thickets, and some for single standing groups or
clumps. Sec. which will prove of considerable advantage; these
should be preserved with the utmost care, as it would require many
years to form the like with young plantations; and although the trees
should stand ever so close, irregular, or straggling, with proper ad-
dress in thinning and regulating them where necessary, they may be
made to become beautifully ornamental to the place, and to prevent
a considerable expense.

In some spacious pleasure-grounds various light ornamental
buildings and erections arc introduced, as ornaments to particular
departments; such as temples, bowers, banqueting houses, alcoves,
grottos, rural seats, cottages, foyntaios, obelisks, statues, and other

7a THE PLEASURE, Oil [Jak.

edifices; these and the like are usually erected in the different parts,
in openings between the divisions of the ground, and contiguous to
the termination of grand walks, 8cc.

Some of these kinds of ornaments, however, being very expen-
sive, are rather sparingly introduced; sometimes a temple is pre-
sented at the termination of a grand walk or opening, or sometimes
a temple, banqueting-house, or bower is erected in the centre of
some spacious opening or grass-ground in the internal divisions;
other parts present alcoves, bovvers, grottos, rural seats, &c. at the
termination of differen' walks; and rural seats are placed in diffe-
rent parts, by the sides of long walks, under the shade of trees, &c.
for places of rest.

Fountains and statues, are generally introduced in the middle of
spacious opens; statues are also often placed at the terminations
of particular walks, sometimes in woods, thickets, and reces'ses, up-
on mounts, terraces, and other stations, according to what they are
intended to represent.

Sometimes, also, there are exhibited root-houses, rock and shell
work, ruins, and other rustic devices, representing hermitages,
caves, and the like; such being generally stationed in some retired
or private situation; these kinds of buildings being commonly arch-
ed or vaulted, are for the most part covered with a coat of earth
and turfed with grass, so as to appear like a sort of mount or hillock,
and planted with some little clumps of shrubs, he. having private
walks leading to the entrance.

Likewise in some parts are exhibited artificial rock-work, conti-
guous to some grotto, fountain, rural piece of water, &c, and plant-
ed with a variety of saxatile plants, or such as grow naturally of
on rock and mountains.

Ornamental bridges over artificial rivers, or any rural piece of
water in some magnificent opening, so as to admit of a prospect
thereof, at some distance from the habitation, have charming effects.

Let it be particularly remarked, that, although water when exhi-
bited with due taste and handsome design, adds considerable to the
beauty of pleasure-grounds; yet, in districts subject to fluxes, inter-
mittent fevers, or other diseases, occasioned by the eflluvia arising^
from marshes and stagnant water, it ought to be cautiously intro-
duced; a due regard to health will of course prevent its introduc-
tion, especially in large sheets, where likely to become stagnant.
In fact, when such are admitted, they should always be situated in a
clay or gravelly soil, and possess a sufficient head or stream, to
render the change of their contents frequent.

A Foss or ha-ha, is often formed at the termination of a spacious
lawn, grand walk, avenue, or other principal part of parts of the
pleasure ground, both to extend the prospect into the adjacent
fields and country, and give these particular parts of the ground an
air of larger extent than they really have; as at a distance nothing of
this kind of fence is seen, so that the adjacent fields, plantations
&c. appear to be connected with, or but a continuation of the plea-
sure ground.

Jan.] flower GARDEN. 73

A Foss, or ha-ha, is a sunk fence, ditch-like, five or six feet deep,
and ten, twenty, or more wide; and is made in different ways ac-
cordinjj to the nature of the ground. One sort is formed with a
nearly upright side next the pleasure ground five, six, or seven feet
deep, faced with a wall of brick, or stone, or strong post and plank-
ing, &c.; the other side is made sloping outward gradually from the
bottom of said wall, till it terminates as near a level as possible.

Another kind of foss is formed with both sides sloping and in per-
pendicular depth from four to five or six feet, having a fence near
that height arranged along the bottom, formed of strong pailing, or
any kind of palisado-work; the sides may be sloped gradually from
the bottom to ten or twenty feet width, or more at top; but sloped
more to the field side than to the other.

It being absolutely necessary to have the whole of the pleasure-
ground surrounded with a good fence of some kind, as a defence
against cattle, 8cc a foss being a kind of concealed fence, will an-
swer that purpose where it can conveniently be made, without in-
terrupting the view of such neighbouring parts as are beautified by
art or nature, and at the same time aflPect an appearance that these
are only a continuation of the pleasure-ground. Over the foss in
various parts may be made Chinese and other curious and fanciful
bridges, which will have a romantic and pleasing effect.

Of Ancient Designs.

Designs, in ancient gardening, for a Pleasure-ground, consulted
uniformity in every part, exact levels, straight lines, parallels,
squares, angles, circles, and other geometrical figures, &c. all
corresponding in the greatest regularity, to effect an exact symme-
try and proportion.

Straight walks were every where observed, and all arranged pa;-
rallel, and crossing one another in regular intersections; generally
a grand one of gravel was extended in a straight line immediately
from the front of the main house, having each side verged either
with a regular straight border of earth, furnished with a variety of
flowers, Sec. and sometimes having a verge of grass three or four
feet wide, then a border embellished as above with various plants;
this main walk being often intersected by others at regular distances,
so as sometimes to divide the spaces immediately in the front of the
house, into four, six, or more equal squares, some of which were
sometimes formed into parterres, somctmics only naked grass-
plats, or other uniform divisions; and often the whole garden was
thus divided by straight, parallel, and intersecting walks, into many
regular squ<»res and angles, without any variation.

Grand parterres were very commonly presented immediately on
the front of the main house, having <i grand walk of grass or gravel
directly from the house through the middle, or dividing the parterre
ground into two divisions.

A parterre, is a spacious level plot of ground divided into many
partitions, of different figures and dimensions, by mqans of edgings

K

74 THE PLEASURE, OR [Jan.

or lines of dwarf-box, &c. or by verges of grass-turf, and tracks of
sand, fine gravel, shell, and scroll-work, 8cc.

These works were in great estimation in ancient gardening, and
were commonly situated, directly in front of the house, generally
the whole width of the front, or sometimes more.

The general figure of a parterre, is an oblong or long square;
because by the rules oi PersfiecdvCf or the natural declension of the
visual rays in optics, a long square sinks almost to a square, and
an exact square appears much less so than it really is, when
viewed at a distance; therefore parterres were generally made
twice as long as broad.

These were bounded by a long bed, or border of earth, and the
internal space within, divided into various little partitions, or enclo-
sures, artfully disposed into different figures, corresponding with
one another, such as long squares, triangles, circles, various scroll-
works, flourishes of embroidery, and many other fanciful devices;
all of which figures were edged with dwarf-box. See. with interven-
ing alleysof turf, fine sand, shells, &c.

The partitions or beds were planted with the choicest kinds of
flowers; but no large plants, to hide the different figures, for such
were intended as a decoration for the whole place, long after the
season of the flowers was past.

Though parterres in general are now become rather unfashion-
able, a little of that kind of work might still be permitted for varie-
ty sake, though not immediately in front of the house as heretofore.
A spacious lawn, bounded with rural shrubberies, is the most
eligible situation for such; but a plain parterre of a moderate ex-
tent, either formed with lines of box, or with turf, might be intro-
duced in some of the more internal parts, and distributed either
into plain or complex departments, or beds of earth for flowers, so
as to answer the purpose of a flower-garden, for the most curious
sorts; it will have an agreeable effect in forming a contrast with the
more rural scenes.

In the more interior parts, large tracts of ground were frequent-
ly divided by straight grass-walks, into many square and angular
divisions of wilderness, each division surrounded by regular hedges
of various kinds of trees and shrubs, kept in uniform order by
annual clippings; having the interior part of each quarter planted
with trees and shrubs, which were in a manner concealed by the
hedges from persons in the adjacent walks, so that hardly any thing
but close hedges, the same thing over again, appeared to view, on
each side of the walks; and all the walks generally led into uniform
openings of grass, particularly to a grand circle or octagon, forming
some central part.

Frequently there were partitions of regular hedge-work, particu-
larly of ever-greens, surrounding large squares of grass-ground,
designed as pieces of garden ornaments; the hedge-work being
often formed into various uniform devices; such as pilasters, ar-
cades or arches, porticoes, galleries, amphitheatres, pavilions, cabi-
nets, bowers, pediments, niches, and cornices: likewise regular ar-

FLOWER GARDEN. 75

bors, having the sides formed into arcades, and sometimes the top
vaulted; and with various other formal imitations, all performed in
hedge-w^ork, which were often so arranged and trained, as to effect an
air of grandeur and art. High hedges were also in great repute, as
boundaries to grand walks and avenues, sometimes carried up from
fifteen or twenty, to thirty or forty feet high; sometimes trained
perfectly close from the very bottom to top, others open below a
considerable way, and formed into regular arches, Sec. all of which
sometimes appeared magnificent and ornamental, but were trouble-
some and expensive to keep in order, on account of their great
height: however, all sorts of hedge-work was generally esteemed
so ornamental in ancient gardening, that almost every division was
surrounded with regular hedges of one sort or other, presenting
themselves to view in every part, shutting out all other objects from
sight; but in modern designs, such hedges are rarely admitted;
every compartment of the plantation being left open to view, from
the walks and lawns, in order to afford a full prospect of the various
trees, shrubs, and flowers, which consequently are more beautiful
than continued ranges of close hedges; but for the sake of variety,
a little ornamental hedge-work might still be introduced in some
particular parts of the ground.

Labyrinths or mazes of Iiedge-work, in the manner of a wilder-
ness, also prevailed in many large gardens.

A Labyrinth^ is a maze or sort of intricate wilderness-planta-
tion, abounding with hedges and walks, formed into many windings
and turnings, leading to one common centre, extremely difficult to
find out; designed in large pleasure-grounds by way of amuse-
ment.

It is generally formed with hedges, commonly in double rows,
leading in various intricate turnings, backward and forward; with in-
tervening plantations, and gravel-walks alternately between hedge
and hedge; the great aim is to have the walk contrived in so many
mazy, intricate windings, to and fro, that a person may have much
difficulty in finding out the centre, by meeting with as many stops
and disappointments as possible; for he must not cross, or break
through the hedges; so that in a well contrived labyrinth, a strang-
er will often entirely lose himself, so as not to find his way to the
centre, nor out again.

As to plans of them, it is impossible to describe such, by-
words, any further than the above hints, and their contrivance must
principally depend on the ingenuity of the designer.

But as to the hedges, walks, and trees; the hedges are usually
made of hornbeam, beech, elm, or any other kind that can be kept
neat by clipping. The walks should be five feet wide at least, laid
■with gravel, neatly rolled, and kept clean; and the trees and shrubs
to form a thicket of wood between the hedges, may be of any hardy
kinds of the deciduous tribe, interspersed with some ever-greens;
and in the middle of the labyrinth should be a spacious open, orna-
mented with some rural seats and shady bowers. Sec.

Sometimes small labyrinths are formed with box-edgings, and

76 THE PLEASURE, OR [Jan.

borders for plants, with handsome narrow walks between, in imita-
tion of the larger ones; which have a very pleasing and amusing
effect in small gardens.

Detached trained figures of ever-greens; as yew, cypress, juniper,
holly, box, and various other close-growing ever-green plants, were
also very predominant in ancient designs, and generally disposed
in regular ranges along the borders and other verges of grand
walks; being trained by clipping into various formal shapes, as
pyramids, obelisks, columns, 8cc. in a variety of forms, with other
formal figures, all placed in the most exact airangement. Some
also were often placed ssingly in the midst of some circle, octagon,
or other open space, and were all kept in order by clipping, once or
twice every summer, and were considered as great ornaments.

Straight rows of the most beautiful trees, forming long avenues
and Kfand walks, were in great estimation, considered as great or-
naments, and no considerable estate and eminent pleasure-ground
were without several of them.

Regular grass slopes, also, pjreatly prevailed in most old gardens,
as ornaments to particular divisions; sometimes such were formed
at the beginning of some rising ground, and sometimes at the ter-
mination or lower part; frequently canals, and other pieces of wa-
ter, were bounded by u range of them, and likewise, the sides of
terraces and other elevaved places Moderate grass-slopes, also,
often formed a boundary to some open spaces, such as bowling,
greens, flower-garden, &:c. forming a sort of terrace all around,
and frequently having a gravel-walk at top; these slopes were
always formed with the greatest regularity and exactness, which in
some situations were veiy ornamental.

Regular terraces either on natural eminences or forced ground
were often introduced by way of ornament, for the sake of pros-
pect, and of enjoying the fresh air in summer; they were of various
dimensions with respect to hei ht, from two, to ten, or twenty feet,
according to the nature of the situation and purpose they were de-
signed for; some being ranged smgly, o(hers double, treble, or se-
veral, one above another, on the side of some considerable rising
ground in theatrical arrangement.

The perpetual show of stiff formality, displayed by this kind of
fancy, has induced many to discontinue it; but some of these run
into the contrary extreme, by excludmg all formal regularity and
uniform appearances; and substituting various dissimilar arrange-
ments, in the formation of the different compartments, in fancied
imitation of natural ruialiiy as much as possible.

However, for sake of diversity, some of the more elegan' regular
works ought still to be admitted, which would form a beautiful con-
trast with the general rural improvements, and diversify the whole
scene, so as to have a most enchanting effect.

General Care and Culture.
With respect to the general culture of the ground, neatness must

Jan.] flower GARDEN. 77

ever be observed in every part; the walks, lawns, shrubbery,
clumps, &c, and the several compartments of trees, shrubs, and
flowers, kept duly furnished with a proper stock of the various
plunts.

in the provision of plants, both of the tree and shrub kinds, let
it be remarked, that when such are taken out of the woods or
swamps, and planted in open exposures, they seldom succeed; there-
fore the better way will be, to propagate them in your nursery,
ei'her by cuttings, (of such as grow that way) or by seed; and when
arrived there at a proper size, they may be transplanted into the
pleasure-ground or elsewhere with success.

The gravel -walks must always be kept free from weeds, and all
sorts of litter, and should be rollf.d at least once every week or ten
days, in summer, particularly the principal walks; previously trim-
ming the edges, especially if verged with grass-ground, and sweep-
ing off all loose litter.

The rolling in summer should be occasionally performed imme-
diately after showers of rain, particularly the first after any continu-
ance of very dry weather, to settle all the loose parts compact and
smooth; in winter, the rolling should also be occasionally perform-
ed; observing, that it is improper to break up the walks at that
season in rough ridges, as often practised, to remain in thai unsight-
ly manner till spring; whereby they are rendered useless at a
time when there is hardly any dry, or safe walking upon grass, or
other parts; besides, they have a disagreeable and slovenly appear-
ance.

I would therefore advise, to let the walks remain undisturbed, at
least until spring, when, if the surface be foul or mossy, they may
be broken up, the top turned to the bottom, and immediately raked
and rolled, and rendered in a fit condition for walking on.

All the principal grass-walks, and lawns, within the limits of
the pleasure-ground, especially such parts as are intended for walk-
ing on, should also be kept perfectly neat by frequent mowing in
summer, to keep the grass short, close and fine; give also occa-
sional rolling, both \p cle^n up the scattering worm-casts, and to ren-
der the surface smooth and firm. Always make choice of a dewy
morning, or moist weather, for the work of mowing; as the short
grass will cut much better then, than when dry: be careful to have
each mowing performed with an even hand, not to score, or leave
the mark of the sythe at each stroke, which has a most disagreeable
appearance, and directly after, rake up all the swarths of grass, into
heaps and carry them away.

Rolling the grass, should be occasionally performed, between
the times of mowing, in order to continue the surface always firm,
even, and of a close smooth appearance.

In extensive pleasure-grounds, and large extended lawns, walks,
Sec. the rolling is sometimes done by horses, having a very large
roller furnished with horse-shafts; and the horses' feet occasionally
muffled, especially when the ground is rather soft, to prevent their
cutting the surface of the grass in holes.

78 THE PLEASURE, OR [Jan.

Likewise keep all grass-ground clear from litter, such as fallen
leaves of trees, 8tc. which may be expeditiously effected by a light
broom or besom on a long handle.

The edges of all principal grass-walks, and those of grass-ground
next to gravel-walks in particular, should always be kept close and
even, and dressed once or twice a year at least, with an Edging-Iron;
which ought to be made of the best steel, and kept very sharp: this
instrument is made somewhat in a crescent form, and about nine
inches in diameter, pretty much like a saddler's cutting-knife,
rounded below at the edge part, and with a socket above, upright
in the middle, in which to fix a straight handle of wood, about four
feet long; with this instrument a man can dress as much grass-
edging in a day, as three men with spades, do it much neater, and
without wasting the edges of the borders.

The above dressings ought particularly to be given, previous
to turning the gravel-walks; at other times during the summer, the
edges may be trimmed occasionally as the grass grows rank, either
with a pair of garden-shears, or with shears made for that purpose,
exactly in the form of sheep-shears, but a little larger, and longer
in the blades.

The shrubbery plantations, should generally all be suffered to take
their own natural growth, and branch out into full heads, only just
giving a little occasional trimming to any very irregular growths,
such as retrenching or reducing any very luxuriant rude shoots,
or considerable ramblers, running wildly from all the other branches.
Cut out all dead wood and keep all the shrubs from entangling
with one another, so as the head of each shrub may appear distinct,
and show itself to proper advantage.

The ground of the principal shrubbery plantations, in which the
shrubs stand distant, not covering the surface, should be digged eve-
ry year, late in autumn, or in spring; previously giving the shrubs
any necessary pruning as above observed; this operation gives
health and vigour to the plants, kills weeds, and gives the place an
air of culture, and a lively neat appearance.

After this general digging, the ground must be kept clean from
weeds all summer, by occasional hoeing in dry weather, which with
a scuffling-hoe may be expeditiously performed.

Particular care must be taken of the flower borders, &c.; they
must be neatly and carefully dug in autumn, and pointed and dress-
ed afresh in spring; and according as the various plants grow up,
let such as need support have sticks placed to preserve them up-
right; and as the herbaceous perennials and annuals have done flow-
ering and their stalks decay, cut them down close, clearing off all
decayed leaves and other rubbish.

All kinds of hedge-work and detached trained figures of ever-
greens should be clipped twice a year — that is to say, in June and
in September; for without this, they will not have that neat hand-
some appearance, that inspires admiration and does credit to the
person under whose care they are.

For further particulars see the work under this head in the differ-
ent months.

Jan.] flower GARDEN. 79

The Flower Garden.

A commodious piece of good ground, for a flower-garden, situat-
ed in a convenient and well sheltered place, and well exposed to the
sun and air, ought to be allotted for the culture of the more curious
and valuable flowers.

The form of this ground may be either square, oblong, or some-
what circular; having the boundary embellished with a collection
of the most curious flowering-shrubs; the interior part should be
divided into many narrow beds, either oblong, or in the manner of
a parterre; but plain four feet wide beds arranged parallel, having
two feet wide alleys between bed and bed, will be found most con-
venient, yet to some not the most fanciful.

In either method, a walk should be carried round the outward
boundary, leaving a border to surround the whole ground, and with-
in this, to have the various divisions or beds, raising them generally
in a gently rounding manner, edging such as you like with dwarf-
box, some with trift, pinks, sisyrinchium, 8cc. by way of variety,
laying the walks and alleys with the finest gravel. Some beds may
be neatly edged with boards, especially such as are intended for the
finer sorts of bulbs, 8cc.

In this division you may plant the finest hyacinths, tulips, poly-
anthus-narcissus, double jonquils, anemones, ranunculuses, bul-
bous-irises, tuberoses, scarlet and yellow amaryllises, colchicums,
fritillaries, crown imperials, snow-drops, crocuses, lilies of various
sorts, and all the different kinds of bulbous, and tuberous-rooted
flowers, which succeed in the open ground; each sort principally
in separate beds, especially the more choice kinds, being necessary
both for distinction sake and for the convenience of giving such as
need it, protection from inclement weather; but for particulars of
their culture, see the respective articles in the various months.

Likewise in this division should be planted a curious collection
of carnations, pinks, polyanthuses, and many other beautiful sorts,
arranging some of the most valuable in beds separately; others may
be intermixed in different beds, forming an assemblage of various
sorts.

In other beds, you may exhibit a variety of all sorts, both bulbous,
tuberous, and fibrous rooted kinds, to keep up a succession of bloom
in the same beds during the whole season.

Here I cannot avoid remarking, that many flower gardens, &c.
are almost destitute of bloom, during a great part of the season;
which could be easily avoided, and a blaze of flowers kept up, both
in this department, and in the borders of the pleasure-ground,
from March to November, by introducing from our woods and
fields, the various beautiful ornaments with which nature has so
profusely decorated them. Is it because they are indigenous, that
we should reject them? Ought we not rather to cultivate and im-
prove them? What can be more beautiful than our Lobelias, Orchis',
Asclepias' and Asters; Dracocephalums, Gerardias, Monardas and

go THE PLEASURE, OR [Jak.

Ipomoeas; Liliums, Podalyrias, Rhexias. Solida^os and Hibiscus*;
Phlox's, Gentianas, Spigelias, Chironicis and Sisyrinchiums. Cassias,
Ophrys', Coreopsis' and Cypripediums; Futnarias, Violas, Rudbec-
kias and Liatris'; with our charming Limadorum, frai^rant Arethusa
and a thousand other lovely plants, which if introduced, would grace
our plantations, and delight our senses?

In Europe plants are not rejected because they are inditjenous; on
the contrary, they are cultivated with due care; and yet here, we
cultivate many foreign trifles, and neglect the profusion of beauties
so bountifully bestowed upon us by the hand of nature.

Work to be done this Month.

Prune such of your ornamental shrubs, 8cc. as need it, particu-
larly the hardy deciduous kinds; all decayed, ill-placed and strag-
gling branches ought to'be cut off. close to where they were pro-
duced, and such others shortened, as are growing in a disorderly
way, always taking great care to form the heads in a full and hand-
some manner, that they may appear well furnished, and display the
beauty of their foliage and bloom in due season.

Great care should be taken at this time of the choicest kinds
of flowering plants and other tender kinds in pots — they should be
carefully protected from severe frosts, by giving each sort suitable
covering.

Auriculas.

The best auriculas in pots should be well protected from exces-
sive rains, snow, or sharp frosts; which will preserve them in
strength to flower in great perfection.

The choicest varieties of these plants should always be removed
in their pols, about the beginning of November, and placed in
frames, or in a bed arched over with hoops, in a warm dry situation
in the full sun, where they can be occasionally covered when the
weather is unfavourable; but let the covers be kept constantly ofi'iQ
the day time, when the weather is mild and dry.

Care of Carnations.

Take great care to protect your fine carnations that are in pots,
from hard frosts, excessive rains, and snow; for notwithstanding
the plants being hardy enough to stand the winter in the open
air, it is advisable to defend the choicer sorts in bad weather,
to preserve them in good strength for flowering in the greatest
perfection.

These pots should be plunged in a raised bed of dry compost, in
the beginning of winter, and the bed arched over low, with pliant
rods or hoops, at that time; this will be of great advantage to the
plants, if you are careful to draw mats over the arches when the
weather is severe.

Jan.] FLOWER-GARDEN. 81

But if the pots were to be placed in garden frames, it would be
still better, if you take care to put the glasses over them in rigorous
weather and at night; but be careful to give them as much free air
as possible by day, when the weather permits: either by taking the
glasses totally off, for a few hours, or tilting them up behind.

Care of choice Hyacinths and Tulips.

In severe frosty weather, it would be of beneficial advantage, if
the beds wherein you have deposited the choicest kinds of hyacinths
and tulips, or any other curious bulbous roots, be covered either
with an awning of mats, or, in default thereof, with straw, fern,
leaves of trees, or dry long litter; but it must be removed as soon as
the severe weather is over.

Old decayed fine tan is a good article to cover hyacinths, tulips,
and other bulbs with; it may be laid on, one inch or one inch and a half
deep, immediately previous to the commencement of the severe
wmter frost, and need not be removed, as it will keep down the
weeds in spring, and protect the roots from intense heat and
drought, during the period of their ripening.

Ranunculuses and Anemones.

The beds or frames in which are planted your choice kinds of
ranunculuses and anemones, should be carefully protected from
frost, by laying tan, earth or litter round the outside of the frames,
and carefully covering them at nights and in severe weather, with
glasses, or with boards laid lengthwise or across the frames, with
mats or other covering on top, but carefully observing to give them
plenty of air every day that the weather is tolerably mild, for if too
much confined, they will draw up and be good for nothing.

Plant ranunculuses and anemones in mild, dry, open weather, if
you have any now out of the ground, and that the frost will admit
of your working it; these now planted will succeed those which
were put into the ground in October or November.

For their reception, choose a dry situation, where the ground is
of a light, rich nature. Let it be well digged, breaking the earth fine,
and form it into beds of three feet and a half or four feet wide; rake
the surface smooth, and then plant the roots. These roots after
planting, should be protected as above, from severe frost, and too
much wet: either of which, would at this season materially injure
them.

For the particular method of preparing the beds, and planting
the roots, see the work of October.

In warm, dry and well sheltered situations, in the middle states,
and generally in tlie southern states, these beautiful flowers may
be planted in the open borders in small patches, with othf^r kinds,
and will there make a very agreeable appearance. You may plant
four or five roots, in a small circle of about six inches diameter, one
in the middle and the rest round the extreme part of the circle; and

I-

82 THE PLEASURE, OR [Jak,

let these patclies or clumps be from two or three'to five, ten or
twelve feet asunder, and the roots be covered from one to two
inches dtep, accordint^ to the lightness of the ground

The above practice, however, of planting those roots in patches
aboui the borders, is meant principally for the common sorts; for
it is nec<"^ssary lo plant the fine varieties together in narrow beds or
frames, as above, in order boh to have the opportunity of protect-
ing them occasionally in severe weather, and that, when in flower,
they may display a spacious shew together in their various colours,
stripes, and tints, in the different varieties; and also in the spring,
when the plants are in bloom, they can be more, readily sheltered
from great rains, or too much sun, both of which would hasten the
decay of the flowers: and as the pleasure of adniiring the blooin is
the only intention of cultivating these flowers, no pams should be
spared to protect the more beautiful sorts.

Planting Tulips.

Tulips, if you have any out of the grout'd, should now be planted
the first settled open weather, to blow late, and to succeed those
planted late in autumn.

Let this be done as soon as the weather will permit; for if these
roots are kept much longer out of the ground, they will blow very-
poorly. If they are to be planted in beds, let them be made three
or four feet wide, raised two or three inches, somewhat rounding,
that they may throw off the redundant wet of heavy rains, and re-
main dry during winter.

If intended to plant any of the inferior sorts in the borders, in
assemblage with other flowers, they may either be planted in a sin-
gle row towards the front, or some dotted singly, or by three toge-
ther, to effect a greater variety: but these flowers, when planted in
the borders, make the best appearance in little clumps; that is, in a
circle of about six or eight inches, plant four or five roots; and about
from three or four to five or ten feet farther, plant another such
clump, and so proceed, in a varied order, towards the front and
middle.

Observe that hyacinths, tulips, and other hardy bulbs, which, to
do them justice, ought to be planted in October, or early in Novem-
ber; should have lighter, or more shallow covering in proportion
to the length of time they are kept out of ground after that period;
for instance, tulips which ought to get four inches of light covering
in October, will not be able to bear more than three in December,
two and a half in January, two in Februa''y, and one and ' a half if
kept up till March; for many of the bulbous kinds becoine so ex-
hausted by keeping them too long out of the ground, that if planted
at the usual depth, they have not strength to bear up through it,
and ultimately perish. However, this partial remedy ought by no
means to induce to the keeping of bulbous roots out of ground
after their proper season; but by attending to it, roots may be pre-
served, that would otherwise perish, and which, by planting in due

Jan.] FLOWER-GARDEN. 83

time the succeeding season, may produce tolerable good flowers, and
an increase of their kinds.

Be particular, never at any season or under any circumstance,
to give less covering lo any kind of a bulbous or tuberous root, when
planted in the open ground, than one inch over the crown or upper
part.

Planting Crocuses and Snow-drops.

Any sort of crocuses may still be planted, if dry mild weather;
generally planting them along the edges of the flower borders, next
the walks, and in flower-beds, &c. commonly within five or six
inches of the edge, either in a continued row, or dotted in little
patches, planted about one inch and half deep: though those de-
signed for the borders appear to greater advantage when disposed
in small patches, than in any other way. Uraw a small circle
•with your finger, about four or five inches diameter; in the middle
plant one root, and plant three or four round the edge of the circle:
about eighteen inches or two or three feet farther, make an-
other circle, and plant the roots as above; and so proceed to the
end of ihe border. Sec; or may vary the patches, in having some
near the eds:e, and others more towards the middle: observing, if
you have different kinds, to plant each sort separate; and if you
plant the first patch with yellow crocuses, plant the next with blue,
and so proceed with others of different sorts.

Snow-drops may also now be planted, in the same manner as the
crocuses; but neither of them, when planted hO late, flower well the
spring following— the former, in particular, will totally perish if kept
much longer out of the ground. These kinds ought to have been
planted in September, or early in October, for being flowers of early
bloom they do not agree with being kept up after their proper time
of planting.

When you desire a considerable increase of crocuses, or snow-
drops, take up the roots but once m two years; if you let them re-
main longer, though the increase will be numerous, the roots be-
come very small and produce but poor flowers.

Planting vanous sorts of Bulbs.

Jonquils, ornlthogalums, narcissuses, hyacinths, bulbous iris',
Persian iris', gladioluses, fritillaries, crown imperials, or any other
kinds of hardy bulbous flower-roots, that yet remain above ground,
should now be planted, as soon as the weather will permit. Mild
dry weather ought to be chosen for planting these and all other
kinds of bulbous roots; and see that the ground is not too wet.

When it is intended to plant any of the common sorts of the
above, or other kinds of bulbous roots in the borders, they may be
planted in the manner mentioned above for the common tulips, &c.
Observing particularly, that the longer you keep thetn out of the
ground after October or November, the shallower they must be
planted.

84 THE PLEASURE, OR [Jan.

Flowers to blow in the House.

Several sorts of bulbous roots may be placed upon bulb-glasses of
water, for blowing in the apartments of the house, such as hyacinths,
narcissuses, jonquils, early dwarf tulips, bulbous iris', See.; the
glasses for this purpose are to be had at the seed and glass-shops,
being made concave at the mouth, they contain each one root, and are
to be filled with soft water, and one root placed in each glass with its
bottom touching the water: placing the bottles upon a shelf or
chimney-piece of some warm room, or in the inside of a warm win-
dow, and if where the sun comes, it will be an additional advantage;
but in severe frost, remove them to the interior part of the room
where a fire is kept: they will soon shoot their roots down into the
water, which, when become very foul or foetid, should be renewed
with fresh occasionally: they will thus blow very agreeably, early
in the spring; and may be greatly forwarded if placed in a hot-bed
or hot-house.

Likewise, may plant various sorts of bulbous and tuberous flower-
roots, in pots for blowing in a house, such as hyacinths, narcissuses
of all kinds, early tulips, crocuses, anemones, ranunculuses, or any
other spring flowering kind; having small pots or boxes, filled with
light sandy earth, plant the roots therein Just over their crowns, and
place the pots near a window; when the roots begin to shoot, give
occasional light waterings, and they will flower in good perfection at
an early season.

Blowing Flowers early in Hot-beds, Sfc.

Many sorts of bulbous, tuberous, and fibrous-rooted perennial
flowers, if planted in pots, and now placed in a hot-bed, hot-house, or
any forcing department at work, will shoot and flower early without
much trouble; only to give occasional watering. Pots of roses,
dwarf almonds, double-blossom cherry, peach, 8cc. may also be
placed in the forcing houses, for early bloom.

Care of perennial fibrous -rooted Plants, in Pots.

Double wall-flowers, double stocks, double sweet-willlarns, and
any other of the choicer kinds of perennial plants, in pots, should
be well secured from severe frosts. If these plants in i)ots arc
placed in frames, let the glasses or other covering be kept over
them at all times when the fi-ost is keen, or occasionally in very
wet weather; but in mild dry weather tiie plants must not be covered
in the day time.

Take care now also, ol all other choicer kinds of fibrous 'i-ooted
perennial plants in general, which are in pots, to secure them irom
frost; such as the double rose campion, double scarlet lychnis, dou-
ble rocket, ami nil other like kinds.

Those plants which are in pots, should, where there is not the
convenience of iramcs, be plunged to their rims in a dry andl warm

Jan.] FLOWER-GARDEN. 85

border, and at night and in severe weather be covered with garden-
mats, supported on arched hoops placed low over such bed or
border.

Seedling Flowers.

Boxes or pots of any tender or choice kinds of seedling flowers
should be covered in frosty weather, either with mats, long litter,
fern, or the like, which should be laid a good thickness over
them, and close round the sides; or remove them under a garden-
frame and glasses, 8cc. which will be the better way.

Likewise beds of the more tender and curious sorts of seedling
flowers, in the common ground, should also be covered in hard
frosts, with mats or long dry litter; but remove the covering when
the weather is mild.

Protecting Flotoering-Shrubs.

If you have hardy flowering-shrubs or ever-greens in pots, you
should, to protect their roots from the frost, plunge the pots to their
rims in the ground, if omitted doing in November or December,
and cover the pots with some tan, leaves of trees, or dry litter;
allotting them for this purpose, a dry warm situation, where water
is not apt to stand.

But any tenderer or more curious young ever-greens, &c. in pots,
should have the protection of frames or occasional covering of
mats, &;c. in severe weather.

Protect also, the roots of the choicer kinds of new planted flower-
ing shrubs, and ever-greens from frost. This is done by laying dry
mulchy litter on the surface of the ground, close round the lower part
of the stem of each, as far as their roots extend, or rather farther.

Likewise support such new-planted shrubs, as require it, with
stakes, that they may not be displaced by the wind.

Grass, and Gravel walks.

The grass and gravel walks, should all be kept in decent order,
especially in the principal parts of the garden and pleasure ground;
suffer no leaves of trees, or other litter to remain thereon, for such
would give them an unbecoming appearance.

SOUTHERN STATES.

Where mild weather is now prevalent, and the ground not bound
up by frost, you may plant all kinds of hardy deciduous trees and
shrubs; and towards the latter end of the month, especially where
smart frosts are not expected to follow, you may plant the different
kinds of hardy ever-green trees and shrubs.

Plant cuttings and make layers of such kinds as you wish to
propagate by these methods: plant dwarf-box for edgings, which is

86 fHE GREEN-HOUSE. [Jan-.

superior to every kind of plant for that purpose. Transplant suck-
ers from the roots of roses, and such other shrubs as produce them,
and are worthy of cultivation.

Hedges of the various kinds of haw-thorn, hornbeam, beech, elm,
privet, white mulberry, &c. may now be planted. Make and repair
grass and gravel walks; keep such as are made in clean and neat
order, and give them occasional rollings.

Sow hardy annual and perennial flower seeds, and do the various
other works directed to be done in the flower-garden and pleasure-
ground, in March.

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

A Green-house, is a garden-building fronted with glass, serv-
ing as a winter residence for tender plants from the warmer parts
of the world, which require no more artificial heat, than what is
barely sufficient to keep off frost, and dispel such damps as may
arise in the house, occasioned by the perspiration of the plants or a
long continuance of moist weather.

A very considerable share of the vegetable creation which, in
their respective native countries, grow naturally in open fields, &c.
in all seasons; require when cultivated in less favourable climates,
protection in winter; but observe, however, that those of the Green-
house department, being from the warmer parts of the world,
require protection from frost only, not needing aid of artificial heat
like stove plants, which are generally natives of the hottest regions,
except in very severe weather; but the aid of a moderate fire,
burned in a furnace contrived outside, either in the end, or back
wall, communicating the heat to the flues or funnels ranging along
the inside, will be necessary, not only in severe frosts, but also
in moist foggy weather; a moderate fire now and then will
dry up the damps, which would otherwise prove pernicious to
several of the more tender kinds, especially to those of succulent
habits.

A green-house should generally stand in the pleasure-ground,
and if possible, upon a somewhat elevated and dry spot fronting
the south, and where the sun has full access from its rising to set-
ting; the building ought to be of brick, or stone, having the front
almost wholly of glass-work, ranging lengthwise east and west,
and constructed upon an ornamental plan.

As to its general dimensions, with respect to length, width, and
height, it may be from ten, to fifty feet or more long, according to
the number of plants which you intend it should contain; and its
width in the clear, from ten or fifteen to twenty feet, though for a
middle sized house, fifteen or eighteen feet is sufficient; its height
to the top of the upright front glasses, equal to its width; as to erect-

Jan.] the GREEN-HOUSE. ^7

ing rooms over it, as is commonly directed, I disapprove of, such
being not only an additional and unnecessary expense, but they
give the building a heavy appearance; on the contrary, all
pieces of garden architecture ought to display a light, gay, and
sprightly taste.

The walls of the back and ends should be carried up three bricks,
or about two feet three inches thick, the more efFectually to keep
out frost; a furnace ought to be erected outside, either in the back
■waii, or one of the ends as before observed, communicaiing "with
flues within, ranging in two or three returns along the back wall,
with only a brick on edge, with the plastering between them and
the inside; also one flue running along the front and end walls, rais-
ed wholly above the floor; and as 10 the front of the building it
should have as much glass as possible, and a wide glass door
should be in the middle, both for ornament and entrance, and for
moving in and out the plants; a small door at the end, for entrance
in severe weather, will be found of considerable utility.

The width of the windows for 1 he glass sashes, maybe five, or
six feet, and the piers between them, may be either of timber, six,
eight, or ten inches wide, according to their height, or if of brick,
or stone, they must be about two feet wide, sloping both sides of
each pier inward, that by taking off the angles, a more free admis-
sion may be given to the rays of the sun: the bottom sashes must
reach within a foot or eighteen inches of the floor of the
house, and their top reach within eight or ten inches of the cieling;
and if brick or stone piers two feetwide, folding shutters may be hung
inside to fall back against each pier.

In the modern construction of green-houses, in order to have as
much glass as possible in front, the piers between the sashes are
commonly made of good timber, from six to eight or ten inches
thick, according to their height, so as to admit as great a portion
of light, and heat of the sun, as may be; and, on the same account,
one half or one third of the roof, is formed of glass-work, made in
the manner of hot-bed lights, the remainder being either covered
with slate or shingles, and tarpolings or very strong canvass fixed on
rollers, to be let down over the roof-glasses in very severe weather;
you may also have large canvass cloths upon rollers to let down oc-
casionally before the windows, or in default of such, you may nail up
garden mats.

Let one third of the front side of the roof, for the whole length
of the house, be formed of glass-work, and the back wall raised, so
as that a horizontal ceiling may be carried from the upper part of
these lights to it, which will cause the back half of the roof to be
somewhat more flat than the front. Ornamental wood work may
be erected outside, along the top of those lights, to give a light ap-
pearance to the roof. Or, if the house be small, you may carry the en-
tire roof with a gentle slope from the front to the back wall, which
must be made of a proper height for that purpose; one third or one
half of such roof may be made of glass-work; from the termination
of which, carry the ceiling on a level to the back part of the house.

gS THE GREEN-HOUSE. [Jan.

The better to confine the air warmed by the sun in the day time,
and to prevent the cold air from rushing; in on ihe approach of night,
when that within begins to cool and consequently to contract
in bulk; I would advise to have all the panes in the roof-lights neat-
ly and closely puttied, where they overlap one another; and to have
cither one, two or three of those lights, in proportion to the length
of the house, so constri«':ted, as to slide down and up a few feet, by
means of pullies; in orderto give vent to the foul air generated in
the house, which naturally ascends to the upper part. The sized
glass, recommended in page 1 1, for hot-bed lights, is what I would
particularly recommend for these roof-lights, being not only the
strongest, but by much the cheapest.

The windows or upright front-lights, must be made with large
panes of glass, &c. to admit the more light, as well as to give a hand-
some appearance to the house: the upper half of each window
must be so contrived, as to slide down, and the lower half up,
occasionally, to admit air to the plants when necessary.

If a spacious and ornamental window be placed in each end, (if
the house be detached) to receive the benefit of the rising and set-
ting sun, it will be of considerable advantage; these particularly
should have good close shutters either inside or outside, and be kept
shut every night during the winter, and also in the day time in very
severe weather, except while the sun immediately shines on them.
If the front is so contrived, that inside shutters to the windows can-
not be conveniently hung, outside sliding shutters should be made, to
be used only when necessity requires.

But let it be particularly observed, that all the lights, cases, doors,
and wood work of the house, be made of good seasoned wood, and
■well painted, to prevent either their swelling by wet, or shrinking
by drought; that all parts be well jointed and fitted together, so as
to be as nearly air tight as possible.

A house constructed on this plan, will very seldom require the
assistance of fire-heat, which ought always to be used with great
caution in a green-house; it will admit light, collect heat, and give
health, beauty and vigour to all the plants.

Some green-houses for large collections of plants, have two wings
of smaller dimensions, added to the main building, one at each end,
in a right line, separated sometimes from it by glass partitions, and
sliding sashes for communication, the front almost wholly of glass,
and part glass roofs, as above observed; thus by these additional
wings, the green-house will consist of three divisions, whereby the
different qualities and temperatures of the various plants can be more
eligibly suited. The middle or main division may be for all the
principal and more hardy, woody or shrubby kinds, which require
protection from frost only; niie of the wings maybe appropriated
for the succulent tribe, and the other for the more tender kinds that
require occasional heat in winter, yet can live without the constant
heat of a stove or hot-house.

Many green-houses, as they are commonly built, serve more for
ornament than use; their situation to receive the south sun being

Jan.] the green-house. 89

the only essential, that seems to be regarded, towards preserving
the health of the plants which they are intended to protect. It is
rare to find one that will keep plants in good health during the win-
ter, either by reason of their situation in moist places, their want of
a sufficiency of glasses to attract heat and admit a due quantity of
light, or of the glasses not being constructed so as to slide up and
down occasionally, as they ought — as well to suffer the foul air to
be discharged as to admit fresh. Sometimes where a Green-house
has been well considered in these points, all is confounded by the
introduction of a mettle stove and pipes, which never can be man-
aged so as to give, when necessary, that gradual and well regulated
heat, which will protect the plants without injuring them; and, be-
sides, both the stove and pipes unavoidably emit in the house a
quantity of smoke, which seldom fails lo annoy the plants. It does
not unfrequently happen, when such a house is entrusted to the care
of an ignorant or negligent person, that the whole collection is de-
stroyed in one night, by excessive heat, or at least rendered of very
little value; this is an evil which ought to be carefully guarded
against.

For the particular method of erecting the furnace and flues, see
the article Hot-House, for this month; with which it agrees in
every respect, only that one range round the house, and two along
the back wall, will be sufficient; and that the flues may or may not
be erected close to the vi^alls, at pleasure.

On whatever plan the Green-house is constructed, let the whole
inside, both ceiling, walls and flues, be neatly finished off with good
plaster and white-wash, and all tlie wood work made with the most
critical exactness, ot good seasoned timber, particularly the doors,
sashes and sash frames — the whole to be painted white — and let the
bottom or floor be paved with large square paving tiles, or some
similar materials.

The floor of the Green-house should be raised at least twelve
inches above the level of the ground, and higher in proportion as
the situation is moist or springy — for damps sometimes arise dur-
ing the winter months, which prove very pernicious to plants.

In the Green-house should be tressels, which may be moved in
and out, upon which rows of planks should be fixed, so as to place
the pots or tubs of plants in regular rows one above another, where-
by the heads of the plants may be so situated, as not to interfere
with eac|i other. The lowest row of plants, or those nearest to the
windows, should be placed about four feet from them, that there may
be a convenient breadth left next the glasses to walk in front, and
the rows of plants should rise gradually from the first, in such a
manner that the heads of the second row should be entirely advanc-
ed above the first, the stems only being hid, and so on for the whole.
At the back of the house there should be allowed a space of at least
four feet for the con veniency of watering the plants, and particular-
ly to admit a current of air round them; there may also be narrofv
temporary open stairs of boards erected at one end, leading to a
platform erected at the back, on a level with the highest part of tl|e

M

90 THE GREEN-HOUSE. [Jak.

stage— which will be found very convenient for watering as well as
for common access to the highest and most remote plants; and
also to place thereon, near the back wall, pots and tubs of deciduous
plants, which would appear very unsightly in the front of the stage;
observing, that the boards of such platform be laid one inch at least
asunder, for the free admission of the circulating air.

If two or three air-holes be made in the back wall, a little above
this platform, or even below it, about six inches square in the out-
side, and twelve inside, with close shutting doors towards the out-
side and within, both opening inward; they will be found very use-
ful in mild weather for ventilating the house, and driving off any
foul air from the back part; in these holes, between both doors,
you may stuff in any kind of wadding, to prevent air coming in that
way, but Vyfhen wanted.

Never croud the plants, for when pent in too closely, a stag-
nant rancid vapour is generated which often occasions a mouldi-
ness upon the tender shoots and leaves, very destructive to the
plants; neither should too great a proportion of succulent plants
ever be placed in this department.

The Conservatory.

The Green-house and Conservatory have been generally con-
sidered as synonimous; their essential difference is this: in the
Green-house, the trees and plants are either in tubs or pots, and
are placed on stands or stages during the winter, till they are
removed into some suitable situation abroad in summer. In the
Conservatory, the ground plan is laid out in beds and borders,
made up of the best compositions of soils that can be procured,
three or four feet deep. In these the trees or plants, taken out of
their tubs or pots, are regularly planted, in the same manner as
hardy plants are in open air. This house is roofed, as well as front-
ed with glass-work, and instead of taking out the plants in
summei', as in the Green-house, the whole of the glass-roof is taken
off, and the plants are thus exposed to the open air; and at the ap-
proach of autumn frosts, the lights are again put on, and remain so
till the May following.

This building being furnished with flues, Sec. may be used as a
Green-house at discretion, by introducing stages instead of beds,
and in that case the glass-roof may be permanently fixed.

Work to he done in the Green-hotise.

In mild days, when the weather, externally, is moderate and calm,
let the windows be opened a little for the admission of fresh air
about ten or eleven o'clock; and about two or three in the afternoon
let them be shut close again. But the time of opening, and the
time they should be kept so, must always be determined by the
weather; for there are many changes, sometimes in a few hours, at
this season. The upper lights may be let down a few inches for

Jan.] the HOT-HOUSE. gf

the admission of fresh air, as well as to let out the foul air of the
house, even when the under lights cannot be raised with safety.

In frosty weather, the windows must be kept constantly close;
and, if very severe, let the window shutters be shut every night, and
even occasionally in the day time, when the frost is extremely rigor-
ous, and no sun; or, in default of shutters, on this occasion, let gar-
den-mats be nailed up against all the windows, or strong canvass
hung on rollers, be let down before them, and remove the small or
more tender plants in front, as far from danger as possible.

Keep the plants perfectly clear from decayed leaves, and as clean
as possible from any considerable foulness; and every part of the
Jiouse clean and free from litter of fallen leaves, &c. all which is
essential at this time for the prosperity of the plants in general.

When the weather is foggy, or very wet, it will be proper to keep
the windows and door close.

Water must be given to such plants as you see require it; but let
that be given in very moderate quantities, and always, if possible,
take the opportunity of a mild day, and if sunny, the better: in the
forenoon, from eleven to twelve or one o'clock, is the proper time
of the day for watering at this season; and generally prefer soft
water for this occasion.

But very little water must be given at this season of the year to
any of the aloes, sedums, or any other of the succulent plants.

Let it likewise be observed, that such of the woody exotics, as
oranges, myrtles, geraniums. Sec. as you shall see necesary to wa-
ter, should have but a very moderate quantity given them at any one
time.

In such green-houses, where there is the convenience of flues, for
occasional fire-heat in very rigorous weather, you should, in time of
continued severe frost, make moderate fires in an evening and
morning, just sufficient to warm the inclosed air enough to resist
the frost; also in very foggy or moist weather, may make a very
moderate fire to expel the damp, which often proves pernicious to
some of the more delicate exotics of this department.

THE HOT -HOUSE.

HOT-HOUSES or STOVES, are buildings erected for pre-
serving such tender exotic plants, natives of the warmer and hot-
test regions, as will not live in the respective countries where they
are introduced, without artificial warmth in winter.

Though there are great varieties of these stoves, yet they are
reducible to two; the dry stove and the bark stove. They are
both, comparatively, of modern invention; the first, as far as I can
learn, not having been in use more than one hundred and twenty-

92 THE HOT-HOUSE. fjAjj.

one years, being introduced by Mr. Watts, gardener at the apothe-
caries' garden at Chelsea, near London, who in the year 1684,
contrived flues under his green-house; the latter being much
posterior, not having been brought into repute till about the year
172i), when Mr. Le Cour, of Leyden, in Holland, discovered its
utility for the propagation of the pine-apple, which had never before
been brought to good perfection in Europe. Before the use of
bark-beds was introduced, all stoves or hot-houses were worked by
fire-heat only; hence they obtained the name of stoves.

These stove departments are generally constructed in an oblong
manner, ranging in a straight line east and west, with the glass
front and roof fully exposed to ihe south sun; and in dimensions may
be from fifteen or twenty, to fifty or a hundred feet long, by twelve
or fourteen, to sixteen feet wide in the clear, and commonly from
ten to fourteen feet high in the back wall, by five or six in front, in-
cluding the wall and upright glasses together, and furnished with
flues round the inside of the front and end walls, and in several re-
turns )n the back wall for fires; and with the whole roof overhead,
slopiiig to the south, entirely of glass-work, supported on proper
cross-bearers.

Stoves of much more capacious dimensions, are frequently erect-
ed by persons of fortune and curiosity, for the cultivation of the
taller growing kinds of exotics, which shall be taken due notice
of, after the less expensive and more generally used kinds are des-
cribed.

The Bark-Stove.

The Bark-Stove is so called, as being furnished with an internal
pit for a bark-bed, as well as with flues for fire-heat, and is the
most universally used, as being the most eligible for the general
culture of all ki',ds of the teriderest exotics, as well as for forcing
several sorts of hurdy plants, flowers and fruits to early perfection:
the bark bed being designed to effect a constant moderate moist
heat all the year round, and the flues used occasionally for fire heat
in winter, or during cold weather, to produce such an additional
warmth in the internal air, as may be requisite at that season; the
bark-bed being formed, as hereafter directed, is productive of an
uniform moderate growing heat, of long duration, peculiarly adapt-
ed fur the reception and growth of the most tender exotics, which
require to be kept constantly plunged in their pots in it; such as
pine-apple, 8cc. in order to enjoy the benefit of that durable, moist
bottom heat about their roots, peculiar to bark beds only, whose
heat also evaporates and warms the air of the stove at all times,
that even the plants on the surrounding shelves are comforted
by its influence; su that with the aid of fire-heat in winter, regu-
lated by a woll graduated botanical thermometer, placed constantly
in the stove distant from the fire place, and as much in the shade
as possible, there are hardly any exotics from the hottest regions
of the world, either woody, herbaceous, or succulent, but may be

Jak.] the HOT-HOUSE. gg

cultivated in it, by placing them in such different situations, as
their na'ures may require.

In the arrangement of the plants in this stove, some require the
bark-bed. others succeed in any part of the house, and others, such
as the succulent--, require the driest situation near the flues: many
of the more tender, herbaceous, and shrubby plants, natives of
the holiest countries, generally succeeded best when plunged in
the bark bed, though many sorts, both herbaceous and woody,
thrive tolerably well in any part of the Bark Stove.

1 shall now proceed to give a minutia of its general structure,
upoM the most miproved plan, the more especially as many persons
who may be desirous of erecting such, may probably not be able to
procure workmen capable of constructing it, without minute and
particular directions.

Having determined on the size, as to length, width, &c. proceed
to lav the foundation of the walls, allowing due thickness for the
erection of the surrounding inside flues on the foundation wall, with
an allowance for iheir being detached therefrom about two or three
inches.

Then set off the back or north wall, at least two bricks or
eighteen inches thick, and the front and end walls about thirteen,
carrying up the back wall from ten to fourteen feet high, in propor-
tion to the width of the house; but those of the front and ends, from
two to three feet, as the circumstances hereafter noticed may re-
quire, upon which to erect the upright timber framing for the per-
pendicular lights; previously observing, in carrying up the walls»
to allot a proper space for a door-way, at one or both ends towards
the back part; setting out also the furnace or fire-place, in the bot-
tom foundation, towards one end of the back wall behind, formed
also of brick work, and made so as to communicate with the lowest
flue within, the inside top of the furnace being about a foot lower
than said flue, the better to promote the draught of heat and smoke;
though, if the stove be more than about thirty-five feet long, a fire-
place near each end will be necessary; or, if more convenient, they
may both be in the middle of the back wall, each communicating
with a separate range of flues; in either case you may form them
wholly on the outside, or part outside, and part running through the
wall.

This furnace is to be made large or small according to the kind
of fuel intended to be used, and the number of returns of the flues
inside; for when there are but few returns, a greater quantity of fire
will be necessary to keep a sufficient heat. If the returns are fre-
quent, and wood is to be the fuel, the furnace is to be made only
three feet deep, to receive wood two and a half feet long or better;
but if the flues run only once round, with no returns, the depth must
be five feet to receive four feet wood, especially if the house be
large; in either case the furnace is to be made eighteen inches
wide at bottom, the sides sloping outward to the height of twenty
inches, where it is to be twenty-two inches wide, covered from thence
by an arch, the top of which is to be two feet from the grate, which

94 THE HOT-HOUSE. [Jan.

is to be made of iron-bars, and one half of the depth of the fur-
nace; the brick for the furnace should be laid in good well-worked
brick-clay (not in mortar), which, when burned by the fire, will
cement so as to become a solid mass; this must have an iron-barred
grate one half of the depth of the furnace, as before observed, the
remainder of the depth to be made solid with brick; having an ash-
hole underneath, with a close-shutting door to it. The furnace must
also have an iron door placed in an iron frame, which door must be
furnished, near the lower part, with another small door, for the ad-
mission of air to the fires, both having latches, so as to shut close
occasionally; observing that this door is not to be wider than what is
necessary for the admission of the fire-wood. Having both your
ash-hole and furnace thus provided with close-shutting doors, you
may manage your fires to great advantage, by closing them up oc-
casionally from too great a current of air, especially when burned
clear, which would carry off the heat through the flues too rapidly.
If you intend to burn stone-coal, the furnace need not be so large,
but the grate must run the whole depth.

Having finished the furnace, proceed to carry up the walls, ob-
serving particularly, to leave a scarcement a foot wide in both end
•walls; immediately opposite, where the back wall flues are to be
erected, from the level of the lowest flue to the top of the highest,
by which means you can open the ends of the flues and clean them,
■when necessary, either by running in scrapers on the ends of long
poles, or hauling any kind of small brush-wood through them, by
means of aline from one end to the other; these scarcements may
either be made up with brick from time to time, or with sashes and
shutters, which will be more convenient. Whenever there are re-
turned flues, one above the other, similar contrivances will be found
useful; but where there is only one running flue, a top tile may be
taken off at convenient distances, by which means it can be cleaned.

When the walls are finished, then begin to erect the flues along
the inside walls; but, as before mentioned, it would be adviseable to
have them detached therefrom two or three inches, that, by being
thus apart, the whole heat may arise from both sides of the said
flues, which will aff'ord an additional advantage, in moie eff'ectually
diff'using the whole heat internally in the house; much of which
would be lost in the back wall were the flues attached to it: the first
range may be carried along the front and both ends, dipping under
the end door-ways and rising the other side; if there is no return
flue to be in front, which is not necessary in a house of moderate
dimensions, let this flue be carried so that the covering tiles and
plaster may be within three inches of the level of the front and
end walls, upon which a board may be supported with bricks, to be
brought on an exact level with the front wall, for the convenience of
placing thereon a number of pots of strawberries, for forcing, or any
other small plants; and, moreover, the flue being carried near the
glasses, the heat will be particularly efficacious in repelling the cold
external air, frost, damps, Sec. and also in distributing the heat more
equally to all parts of the house: for the several returns in the

Jan.] the HOT-HOUSE. 95

back wall, will counterbalance the strong heat discharged by this
first range where most wanted.

The first range being continued round the front and ends, must
then be carried along the back wall in four or six returns, which
will be sufficient to expend all the heat before its discharge into the
chimney, which must be carried up immediately from the end of
the uppermost or last flue, either in or outside of tlie back wall, so
as not to appear in the inside of the house, and particularly in the
opposite end to the fire-place.

The under range of flues, immediately communicating with .the
fire, ought to be four bricks on edge deep, that they may not be too
soon stopped with the soot, and all the flues eight inches in the clear,
and covered with broad tiles, the several returns may be made three
bricks on edge deep; and, in the beginning of the first bottom flue,
you may have a sliding iron regulator, to use occasionally in ad-
mitting more or less heat, as it may seem necessary; being very
careful, as you proceed, that the brick-work of each flue be careful-
ly jointed with the best mortar for that purpose, and well pointed
within, that no smoke can get out, having each return closely co-
vered with broad tiles, well bedded and jointed with mortar, cover-
ing the uppermost flues also with broad thick tiles the whole width,
all very closely laid and joined as above, and the said uppermost or
last range of flues, to terminate, as before observed, in a vent or
chimney at one end of the back wall; or, if two separate sets of
flues, a chimney at each end, in which you may contrive an iron
slider, near its communication with the last flue, to confine the heat
more or less on particular occasions, or to prevent its passing oft"
too quickly, or becoming of too weakly a degree.

In very wide stoves, flues are continued immediately round the
bark-pit, within an inch or two of the wall, to form a vacancy for
the heat to come up more freely, and also to prevent its drying the
tan of the bark-bed too much, which flues may be used occasionally
or generally, by the assistance of a sliding iron regulator, to admit
or exclude the heat less or more as it may appear expedient.

You should be very careful that neither the fire-place, nor flues,
be carried too near any part of the wood-work, lest it should take
fire.

Proceed now to set out the cavity for the bark-pit, first allowing
a space of eighteen inches, or rather two feet wide round the front
and both ends, and also a walk of two feet, or two and a half, along
the back wall for the convenience of walking, watering and at-
tending the plants; then in the middle space is formed the pit for
the bark-bed, six, seven or eight feet wide, or whatever it may
allow, and the whole length of the house, the end walks excepted;
■which is to be three feet deep, and surrounded with a nine inch
brick wall, coping it all round with a timber plate, framed and mor-
tised together, whicli effectually secures the brick-work: sometimes
a four inch wall is made to do, as by such more room is gained in
the pit; this will answer very well, but is not so permanent.

The top of this pit ought to be exactly on a level with the front-

96 THE HOT-HOUSE. [Jak.

wall, aiid the bottom free from any lodgment of water at any sea-
son, for it would soak up through the bark, destroy its fermenta-
tion, and render it useless; therefore, this must be taken into con-
sideration at the time of building the outside walls, wh«?n, if any
dampness is apprehended, the front wall must be raised lliree feet
above the level of the floor; if not, two feet will be sufficient, and
the pit may be sunk twelve inches; the bottom of which must be
well paved with brick or stone, to prevent the bark coming in con-
tact with the earth, which would cause it to cooi ind rot suodenly.

The walks round the pit must be neatly paved either with brick
or cut stone; this being very necessary for the convenience ol per-
forming the occasional operations of culture, as well as to admit
walking round to view the plants, and gather the produce of ^uch as
yield any; as the pine-apple, and such other plants as are occasion-
ally introduced for forcing their fruit to early perfection.

The timber-framing, and glass-work, for enclo^ing the whole
will consist of a close-continued range of glass-sashes all along the
front, both ends, or part of them, and the entire roof, quite up to
the back wall; each sash, both for uptight and roof lights being
three feet six inches, or four feet wide; and for the support of
which, a framing of timber is to be erected on the brick walling,
conformable to the width and length of the sashes.

For the reception of the perpendicular glasses in the front and
ends, substantial timber plates are placed along the top of the walls,
upon which is erected uprights, distant from one another the width
of the sashes, framed into a plate or crown-piece above, of sufficient
height to raise the whole front head high from the floor, both ends
corresponding with the front and back; a plate of timber is also to
be framed to the back wall above, to receive the sloping bars from
the frame-work in front; proper grooves being formed in the front
plates below and above, to receive the ends of the perpendicular
sashes, which are to be so contrived as to slide backward and for-
ward, one beside the other, for the admitting of fieshair, &c

From the top of the upright framing in front, are to be carried
substantial crossbars or bearers, sloping to the top of the back
wall, where, being also a timber-plate, they are to be framed at both
ends into these plates, at regular distances, to receive and support
the slope- glasses of the roof, placed close together upon these crDss-
bars or rafters; or these rafters may be formed so as lo have a par-
tition of one inch and half between the glasses, on top of which is to
be placed a slip of board, four inches wide, to present the rain
working down along the edges of the sash frames: these rafters
must be narrowed on the onder side, the better tu admit the rays of
light and heat.

The lights are to be laid on, in two ranges or tiers, sliding one
over the other, of sufficient length together, to reach quite trom
the top of the upright framing in front, to the top ot the back wall:
if these lights be placed close together, the rafters must be grooved
lengthwise, above, to carry off the wet which may tall between
them; making the upper end of the top tier, shut close up to the

Jan.] the HOT-HOUSE. 97

wall-plate, running under a proper coping of wood or lead, fixed
along above close to the wall, and lapped down with due width to
cover and shoot off the wet sufficiently from the upper termination
of these sashes: likewise along the outer edge of the top or crown-
plate in front, may be a sm M conductor of lead or wood, to receive
the water from the slope-glasses and convey it to one or both ends,
without running down upon the upright sashes; being careful that
the top part behind is well framed and secured, water-tight, and
finish the top of the back wall a little higher than the glasses, with
a neat coping the whole length.

In every part, the wood-work must be made with the most criti-
cal exactness, and all the sashes so fitted as to slide close and free;
neat stays of iron may be placed on the under side of the roof lights,
sunk into the wood and made fast by wood screws, in order to
strengthen them; and the rafters or cross-bars are to be stayed
with wood, at proper distances, to keep each firm in its place. In
wide stoves it will also be necessary 10 place a neat upright, either
of wood or iron, inside, under each of these rafters, to prevent their
bending under the weight of the glasses, which are generally made
to rest on the back-wall of the bark-pit.

In glazing the roof-lights the panes are to lap over each other
abouthalf an inch; the vacancies where they overlap are by some
closed up with putty, others leave them open, which is the better
way when not too wide; in order both for the air to enter moderately,
and for the rancid vapours, arising from the lermentation of the bark-
bed, &c. within, thereby to be suffered to pass off; and also that such
as condense against the glasses, may discharge itself at those places
without dropping upon the plants: the glass for this purpose should
be of a small size, and not more than from six to eight inches
square; such would lap closer than larger sized glass; and form a
much stronger roof. The great apertures occasioned by the crook-
edness of large panes admit the cold air so copiously in severe
weather, that incessant fires must be kept up to counteract it, which
certainly is injurous to the plants; but of two evils you must take
the least; and, besides, an extraordinary quantity of fuel is consum-
ed this way which might be saved, and the plants kept in better
health, by adopting the smaller sized glass. Generally when a
large pane is pinned down, so as to form some kind of a close lap,
it presses so hard on the other, that one of them, and sometimes
both crack; which permits the rain to run down frequently on
plants that too much moisture in the winter season will absolutely
destroy. As to the upright glasses, in the front and ends, they are
to be glazed in the ordinary way of house sashes.

The inside walls should all be well plastered; the flues must
also be finished off with the best plastering-mortar that can be
made, in order to prevent any cracks through which the smoke
might pass into the house, which cannot be too carefully guarded
against, as it is extremely injurious to plants, causing them to drop
their leaves, and if continued long in the house will totally destroy
them.

N

98 THE HOT-HOUSE. [Jan.

All the wood-work both within and without, should be painted
white in oil colour, for its preservation and to give the whole a lively
appearance; and the inside walls and flues white-washed, so as to
reflect the rays of light in every direction, which will be of very
considerable advantage to the plants.

As to any necessary internal erections, there may be ranges of
narrow shelves, for pots of small plants, erected where thought
most convenient; some behind over the flues, a single range near
the top glasses towards the back part, supported either by brackets
suspended from the cross-bars above, or by uprights erected on the
wall of the bark-pit: a range or two of narrow shelves may also be
placed occasionally along both ends and in front, above the flues;
all of which shelves will serve for holding pots of various sorts of
small plants, that do not require to be plunged in the bark-bed;
also for pots of strawberries, flowers, &c. in winter and spring for
forcing; which being placed near the glasses, are generally the
most prosperous and successful in their productions.

Outside, at the back part of the stove, should be erected a neat
shed, the whole length of the house, completely walled in, to con-
tain the fuel, garden-pots. Sec. &c. and for the convenience of at-
tending the fires and keeping them regularly burning: this shed
will answer to defend the back wall of the stove from the cold air
and frosts, to stow all garden utensils and tools in when out of use,
in order to preserve them from the injuries of the weather; and
also to lay quantities of earth in occasionally, to have it dry and
ready for use on the various occasions that may occur during winter
and spring.

Some stoves or hot-houses, are furnished with top covers to
defend the glasses, when found necessary, from frosts, heavy
rains, or hail; sometimes by slight sliding shutters, fitted to the
width of the separate sashes; but these are inconvenient, and re-
quire considerable time and trouble in their application; others are
formed by painted canvas or tarpawlings being rolled up on long
wooden rollers, and fixed lengthways all along the top of the stove,
just above the upper ends ot the top-glasses; which, by means of
lines and pullies. are let down very quickly, and by the same means
are rolled up again almost as expeditiously; these, however, are
sometimes liable to be moved and dashed about by violent winds,
so as to break the glasses; but by using the small glass before re-
commended, the use of coverings, except upon very extraordinary
occasions, may be totally obviated. Indeed it would be advisable
in very severe frost, especially when accompained with a piercing
wind, to hang and make fast a tarpawling in front of the upright
sashes; it will be a great service, for then much less fire will preserve
a due heat in the house; and the necessity of loo much fire-
heat, ought to be avoided by every possible means.

The above kind of stove is calculated not only as a pinery for
the culture of the pine-apple; but for all sorts of tender exotics of
similar quality; some requiring to be plunged in the bark-bed,
others placed on top of the Hues and shelves, and others nearer the

Jan.J the HOT-HOUSE. 99

glasses; the same stove serving to force fruiis, flowers, &c. as before
observed.

Such stoves as are intended principally for pine-apples, and for
forcing flowers, strawberries, and some sorts ot culinary esculents,
See. may be only ten or twelve feet high behind, which generally
answers better for such than those of more lofty dimensions; or by
raising the bark-pit within wholly above the surface, and sinking
the front walk about afoot, the roof may be lower, and such plants
by that means, be brought nearer to the glass, which proves ex-
tremely advantageous to their growth.

When stoves are erected for cultivating and bringing to the
greatest possible perfection the taller kinds of exotics, they are
made from sixteen to twenty, or even to twenty-five feet high in
the back wall, with width in proportion, by only six feet height in
the front glasses, in order to suit low as well as high plants; and
with the roof sloping quite from the top of the back wall to the
front, and wholly of glass-work, having a capacious bark-pit within,
formed towards the front; behind which is sometimes a pit of
earth, either on a level with the bark-pit or with the back walk, to
receive particular plants; in rear of this is a walk, between which
and the back wall is formed a border of good earth, to receive the
tallest-glowing plants which are intended to be cultivated. In this
kind of stove you may cultivate exotics, &C. from the lowest to
almost the highest stature, by placing those of the shortest growth
forward, the tallest behind, and so on according to their several
gradations of height.

However, these very lofty and capacious stoves are not recom-
mended for general use, they being both veiy expensive in erect-
ing, and in the consumption of a great quantity of fuel; and not so
well calculated for the growth of the general run of exotics, as
stoves of a moderate height.

Flues ought not to be erected along the back walls, in such stoves
as have plants trained thereto or growing immediately close to
them; and one range round the front and ends will not be sufficient
to keep up a due warmth in such large houses in severe weather,
without consuming an immense quantity of fuel; and at times rais-
ing a scorching heat in the parts of the house next to this single
range, by overheating it in order to force through it a heat suffi-
cient to keep the entire of the house warm; this can never protect
and promote the growth and health of plants so well as that gradual
glow of moderate warmth issuing from flues of several returns,
carried under the walks, or other convenient places, as well as
round the front and end walls; either in double or single ranges, and
especially under the back walk: over which broad planks may be laid,
resting on loose bricks, for the convenience of walking during thts
w^inter season; from these the heat will be equally diffused through
the whole house, and to produce which, half the fuel will not be
necessary that must be consumed in keeping the house warm by a
single range round the front and ends only.

In the erection of stoves it will not be necessarv to have the ends

£00 THE HOT-HOUSE. [Jak,

glazed more than half the width of the house, or at most, to within
eighteen inches of the doors; leaving that much for piers between
the doors and the upright end sashes; the remainder may be car-
ried up with brick as high as the roof-lights.

In stoves that are so long as to require two fires, each with its
respective ranges of flues, it will be proper to make a glass partition
in the middle, and to have two tan-pits, that there may be two dif-
ferent degrees of heat for plants from different countries; and were
a range of stoves built all in one, and divided by glass partitions, at
least half the width of the house, towards the front, it would be of
great advantage to the collection, because they may have different
degrees of heat according to their different natures, and likewise
the air in each division may be shifted, by sliding the glasses of the
partitions, or by opening the glass door which should be made be-
tween each division, for the more easy passage from one to the other.

In the warmest of these stoves or divisions, should be placed the
most tender exotic trees and plants. These being natives of very
warm countries, should be plunged in the bark-bed, and over the
flues may be shelves on which to place the various species of Cac-
tuses, Euphorbiums, Meserobryanthmeums, and other very tender
succulent plants, which require to be kept dry in winter.

As in this stove are placed the plants of the hottest parts of the
East and West Indies, the heat should be kept up equal to that
marked Ananas upon the botanical thermometers, and should never
be suffered to be more than eight or ten degrees cooler at most, nor
should the spirit be raised above ten degrees higher in the thermo-
meter during the winter season, both which extremes will be equally
injurious to the plants.

The roofs of some stoves are so made, that the glasses do not
slide either up or down, which is an evil of great magnitude; for
where the sun is so powerful in the months of April and May, as it
is in every part of the United States, the superabundance of heat
collected in the house on very hot days, cannot be discharged by the
doors and sliding upright-sashes in front, which forces the plants
into an extreme state of vegetation, and renders them unfit to bear
the open air towards the latter end of May, when otherwise the
greater number of them might be brought out with safety, without
receiving such a check by the transition, as many cannot recover
during the summer, and causing many more to appear much less
beautiful than they otherwise would, where they gradually inured to
the open air in the hot-house before their being brought out, by
occasionally sliding open the roof as well as the front-glasses, and
never letting the heat arise in the house to too high a degree.
Those destined to remain in the bark-bed, during summer, such
as the pine-apple, &c. are still worse off; for, if the roof is kept on,
they are rendered good for nothing, and if taken totally off, both
them and the bark-bed are exposed to heavy rains, which destroy
the heat of the one, and consequently injures the health, vigour, and
fruit of the other: therefore all stoves ought to be constructed with
sliding roof as well as front-lights.

Jan.] the HOT-HOUSE. iQi

J^ursery and Succession Stoves,

Besides the main bark-stove already described, it is very con-
venient to have one or two smaller, such as a nursery-pit, and a
succession stove, particularly where there are large collections,
and more especially in the culture of pine-apples; one serving as a
nursery-pit, in which to strike and nurse the young offspring
crowns, and suckers of the old pines for propagation; the other as
a succession-house for receiving the year old plants from the
nursery -pit, and forwarding them a year to a proper size for fruit-
ing, as succession plants, to furnish the main stove or fruiting-
house every autumn, to succeed the old plants then done fruiting.

These smaller stove departments prove materially useful in the
culture of pines, particularly to raise and nurse the young plants,
until arrived to a proper age and size to produce fruit; then moved
into the main stove or fruiting-house, which being thus supplied
from these smaller stoves, with a succession of fruiting plants an-
nually, without being crowded or incommoded with the rearing of
the said succession plants, proves a particular advantage, not only
in the culture of the fruiting plants, as they often require a higher
degree of heat than the succession plants, at particular times, in
order to forward and improve the growth of their fruit; but it is also
making the best advantage of this main department, to have the
bark-bed instantly filled with fruiting plants only, producing a
full crop of proper sized pine-apples every year, which could not al-
ways be effected with such certainty and perfection without the
aid of these succession stoves; because the pine-plants in their
infant state require sometimes different management from the
fruiting plants, particularly in respect to the degree of fire-heat,
which, in general, should be more moderate than for the fruiting
plants, lest too much should force them into fruit in their minor
growth, when incapable of prodcuing such in any tolerable per-
fection.

Therefore, these smaller succession stoves may be erected as
appendages to the main house, or may be detached at some little^
distances, as may be convenient; though if the situation admits,
it may be both more convenient and ornamental to join them in a
line with the main stove, one at each end, and nearly of the same
construction, but smaller both in length, width, and height, if
thought proper: these are sometimes formed in the manner of a
common detached bark-pit, without any upright glasses in front,
having a wall all round, five or six feet high behind, gradually slop-
ing at each end, to about four feet in front, and with only sliding
glasses at top, more particularly the nursery stove, commonly and
simply called the pit, because the whole internal space in length and
width is often allotted entirely as a pit for a bark-bed without any
walk within, or door for entrance, the necessary culture being per-
formed by sliding open the glasses at top, and the flues for the fires
being formed in the upper part of the back wall, above the surface
height of the bark-bed: however, it may be more eligible to form

102 'fHE HOT-HOUSE. [Ja>'.

the succession stove particularly, nearly like the main one, with
erect glasses in front, and sloping sashes at top, with a door for en-
trance, and an alley or walk next the hack wall at least, or more
eligible if continued all round the bark-pit.

Observing, however, if these smaller stoves are joined to the end
of the main one, they may be divided from it only by a sliding i^lass
partition for communication with each other, particularly the suc-
cession and main stove, but wiih separate furnaces and flues to each
department, because the young pine plants do not at all times re-
quire the same degree of fire-heat as the older pines, especially
those of proper size for f -uiii.tg; so that by having separate fires,
the heat can be regulated accordingly.

The nursery stove or pit may be of smaller dimensions, in re-
spect to width and height, than the succession-house, if thought con-
venient: and if designed wholly as a pit without any path or walk
within, six or seven feet width may be sufficient, by five or six high
in the back wall, and four in front, the whole internal space being
filled with tan three feet deep to form the bark-bed: serving chiefly
as a nursery in which to strike and nurse the annual increase of
crowns and suckers of the unarms or pine-plants the first year; also
to raise many tender plants from seeds, cuttings, £cc. without in-
cumbering the main stove; and when they are forwarded lo such a
state of growth as to require more room, they are removed to the
succession-house.

But the succession-house may be nearly on the plan of the main
stove, though of smaller dimensions both in the width and height;
and is intended to receive the year old pine-plants from the pit or
nursery stove. In order to plunge them at greater distances, suf-
ficient to give the whole proper scope to take their full growth
another year, when they will generally be arrived to a proper size
for fruiting the year following: being previously removed in au-
tumn to the main fruiting slove to succeed the old fruiting plants,
■which generally by September have all yielded their produce, are
then removed away, and their place supplied by a sufficient quan-
tity of large plants from the succession-house, being arrived to
a proper state of growth to produce fruit next summer; the
largest succession-house is at the same time replenished with
the plants from the nursery pit, which next autumn will proba-
bly be also arrived to a proper size for removing to the fruiting-
house to succeed the others, and the nursery-pit, supplied with
young crowns and suckers of the year, from the fruit and old plants,
to strike and forward them in ready successions for the above oc-
casions.

Thus, by having the different stove departments always furnished
with pine-plants of three different stages of growth, succeeding one
another regularly, i. e. the nursery pit containing the yearly crowns
and suckers, the succession pit the one and two years plants, and
the main stove the fruiting plants; a constant succession is thereby
annually obtained; for the same individual plants, never produce
fruit but once; they, however, produce a plentiful supply of crowns

Jan.] the HOT-HOUSE. 103

and suckers which commence proper plants, attaining a fruiting
state in regular succession.

However, in many places, the situation or convenience not ad-
mitting but of one common stove to raise and forward the pines and
other exotics, in their different stages of grovk'th; at least with pro-
bably the assistance only of a small detached bark-pit, or a bark and
duns hot-bed under a large garden frame, to strike and nurse the
yearling crowns and suckers of the pmes, &c. of each year, until
they are about a year old, then moved into the stove; where, with
the proper requisite culture, are produced not only very good pine-
apples, but also many curious exotics, flowers, other fruits, 8cc. at
an early season.

But having a main stove with two smaller ones adjoining, nearly
on the same plan as above hinted, you can always, with greater cer-
tainty, obtain a regular annual succession of fruiting pines in per-
fection.

A private passage, or small door, made from the back-shed into
the hot-house, close to one of the ends, or at any convenient place,
will be found extremely useful in severe whether, for entering into
the house to examine the temperature of the heat, or to do the other
necessary work, when it would be ineligible to open the outer
doors.

It vi-^ould be an eligible way, for persons who have large collec-
tions of exotics, to have the green-house in the middle, with a stove
and glass-case at each end; the stoves to be next the green-house,
and the glass-cases at the extremities, made exactly in the same
manner as the bark-stoves, and to range with them.

These glass-cases being furnished with flues, but no bark-pits, are
in fact dry stoves; they may be kept of diff"erent temperatures of
heat, and ought to be furnished with roof and front coverings of
some kind, to be used occasionally. The bark stoves may also be
kept of diff"erent temperatures, so as to suit the various habits of
the plants.

Thus by contriving the green-house in the middle, and a stove
and glass-case at each end, there will be a conveniency for keeping
plants from all parts of the world; which cannot be otherwise main-
tained in good health, but by placing them in the different degrees
of heat, corresponding with that of their native countries.

The Dry-Stove.

This Stove differs in no wise from the bark-stove, but in not hav-
ing a bark-pit; it is furnished with flues as the other, and conse-
rjuently produces a more dry heat; being intended principally for
the culture of some very succulent tender exotics of parched soils,
that require to be kept always dry. Persons who have full collec-
tions of exotics prefer this kind of stove, in order to deposit the
most succulent kinds therein, separate from plants which perspire
more freely, least the damp occasioned by such perspiration, and the

104 'A'HE HOT-HOUSE. [Jan.

more frequent watering of these kinds^ should be imbibed by the
succulents and injure ihem.

However, most of the tender succulent kinds are cultivated and
preserved in the bark- stove, placed on shelves, and in dry situations,
with very good success.

In this kind of stove are erected moveable shelves or stands
above one another, theatre ways, on which to place the pots of the
various kinds of plants intended to be kept therein.

Stoves have been constructed on various other plans, according to
the fancy of the owners or their desire to try experiments; some
circular, some cresent form, and others ranging north and south,
with double roofs and upright sashes, all of glass-work; but these
not being found to answer as well as those described, it is unneces-
sary to take further notice of them.

For the various kinds of Forcing' Frames, and their respective
uses, see page 35.

Pines.

At this season the pinery hot-house requires good attendance,
for some of the pines will now, towards the end of the month
begin to show fruit; and your assistance is at no time more neces-
sary then when the fruit first appears, especially in one particular,
the supporting a proper bottom heat; for if the heat of the bark-bed
is not kept up at that time, the young fruit will receive a check
more than may be imagined; as, notwithstanding the air of the
house can be sufficiently warmed by the flues, yet these plants also
require always a moderately brisk growing heat to their roots, but
especially when the fruit is young; and without that assistance,
they will not advance freely in the first growth, and being checked
therein, will be much inferior in size to what they otherwise would
have been.

Examine therefore carefully at this time the heat of the bark-bed
in which the pots of pines are plunged; and if you find it very faint,
take up all the pots, and let the bark be forked up to the bottom.
But before you proceed to this, if the heat is found much decayed,
or the bark considerably wasted, or become very small or earthy,
it will be adviseable to add at the same time some new tan, first
removing away some of the wasted bark at top and sides, and then
fill up with new bark, working the old and new well together.
When that is done, let the pots be replunged again to their rims, in
a regular manner. This will enliven the heat greatly; and, if
done in proper time, the young fruit will grow freely.

Let the fires be made very regularly every evening and morning,
and take care that they are not made loo strong, for that would
be of very bad consequence; and to avoid this, have a thermometer
placed in the hot-house, as a direction to regulate the degree of
heat.

Water should be given to the pine-apple plants once a week, or so
often as it may seem necessary, and always very moderately; and

Jan.] the HOT-HOUSE. 105

let as little as possible fall into the heart or between the leaves at
this season.

For the conveniency of watering the pines and other plants that
are plunged in the bark-bed, a long pipe, made of tin, would
be eligible to use occasionally: this should be in three different
joints, in order that it may be shortened or lengthened, as you see it
convenient: one of these joints should have a funnel made at the
largest end, that, by pouring the water out of a handy watering-pot
into the funnel, the water is conveyed to the pots in any part of the
bed, with greater exactness, without pouring it into the heart of the
plants.

All other tender exotic plants in the hot-house or stove should be
supplied with water as they require it.

The woody kinds will require it often, those of the succulent
tribe but seldom; or, at least, but very little must be given them at
a time.

Be sure to have soft water for watering the different sorts of plants,
for which purpose you may have a tub or cistern in some conve-
nient part of the house to contain it, in which it is to remain till the
cold chill is completely off.

In the management of the plants in the bark-bed, there must be
a particular regard had to the temperature of the bark, and the air
of the house, that neither be loo violent; as also to water them fre-
quently, but sparingly, especially the shrubby kinds, because when
they are in a continual warmth, which will cause them to perspire
freely, if they have not a proper supply to answer their discharge,
their leaves will decay and soon fall off.

In very severe weather, when necessity requires strong fires to
be kept up for any length of lime, and that the intei;nal air becomes
thereby of a dry and parching nature, it will be well to sprinkle the
flues occasionally with water, to raise a comforting steam in the
house, and to restore the air to its true atmospheric quality, which
is always most congenial to the health of plants.

Every plant in the hot-house or stove, should be kept perfectly
clean fr )m dust or any sort of foulness; if any thing of that nature
appears on their leaves, let the large-leaved sorts be washed with a
sponge. Sec. the others by occasionally watering them all over the
top.

Kidney -beans raised in the Hot-house.

Those who have the conveniency of a hot-house may raise early
kidney-beans with little trouble. The early cream-coloured dwarf,
speckled-dwarf, and yellow-dwarf, are proper sorts for this purpose.

The method is this: fill some large pots, or oblong narrow boxes,
with rich dry earth, and place them on the top of the surrounding
wall of the bark-bed, or upon any of the shelves near the glasses,
observing to plant four or five beans in each about an inch deep; or
if oblong boxes, of about two feet length, plant the beans triangu-

O

106 THE HOT-HOUSE. [Jan.

lar-vvays along the middle, two or three inches asunder: and thus,
the pots, 8cc. being placed as above, the beans will soon sprout and
come up.

When the beans have sprouted, sprinkle the earth with a little
water, which will help the plants to rise: when they are up, water
them fiequenily.

Let the plants be supplied with proper waterings two or three
times a week, and ihey will grow fretly, and produce plentiful crops
of beans in March and April.

Plant a successional crop in a fortnight or three weeks after, in
small pots, ready for turning out with balls of earth into the larger
potSj &c.

Of Cucumbers in the Hot-house.

Cucumbers are sometimes raised early, in tolerably good perfec-
tion, in the hot-house.

This is effected by sowing the seed, or planting young plants, in
large pots, or oblong narrow boxes, which are to be placer! in a con-
venient situation in the hot-house, near the glasses; the boxes for
this purpose may be the same length and depth as for kidney-beans:
fill the pots or boxes with rich earth, and place them up near the
top glasses, behind, or upon the top of the back or end flues, with
the bottoms raised or de'ached two or three inches, that the heat of
the flues may transpire freely, without injury to the plants.

But the best situation in the hot-house for cucumber plants, is to
place them, by means of supports, within about fifteen or eighteen
inches of the lop glasses, nearly under or towardb the upper ends of
the superior tier of lights, not to shade, &c. the other plants below.

The seed may either be sown in small pots, and placed in a dung
hot-bed, or in the bark-bed in the hot-house to raise the plants, or
may be sown at once in the pots or boxes, six or eight seeds in a
small patch; or in a box of two or three feet long you may sow two
such patches: and when the plants are up, they should be thinned
out, leaving two or three of the strongest plants in each place.

Or, if you raise the plants first in small pots plunged in the bark-
bed, or in a dung hot-bed, let them be afterwards transplanted, with
a ball of earth about their roots, into the boxes or larger pots.

When the runners of the plants have advanced to the outside of
the pots or boxes, you may fix up some laths to support the vines or
runners, which should be fastened thereto. Let them have water
frequently, for they will require a little every other day at least.

Early Strawberries in the Hot-house.

Strawberries may be brought to early perfection in the hot-house;
and, if desired, this is the time to begin to introduce therein some
pots of good-bearing plants.

The scarlet and alpine strawberries are the kinds that succeed

Jan.] the HOT-HOUSE. 107

best for forcing; for this purpose they should be taken up and
planted in proper sized pots, eiiher in the months of September or
October, as then directed, and protected in garden-fi-ames, till want-
ed for forcing; but, if the weather permits, you may take them up at
any time, with balls of earth about their roots, planting one good plant
in each pot; always observing, to choose those of two or three years
old, and which are full of bearers.

Place these pots towards the front of the hot-house, near the
glasses, and let them have water frequently, especially when they
are in blossom, and setting young fruit; but observing at these
times not to water too freely over the flowers, for fear of washing
off' the impregnating farina, giving it chiefly to the earth in th©
pots.

Of Flowering Plants in the Hot-house.

You may now introduce into this department, many kinds of
flowering plants, to be forced into bloom at an early season; such
as honey suckles, African-heaths, double-flowering dwarf almonds,
and cherries, 6cc, also pels of pinks, carnations, daisies, double
sweet-williams, rockets, wall and slock-gilly-flowers, 8cc. and pots
or glasses of any kind of bulbous roots, planted either in earth or
water, may also be introduced, with a variety of curious annual flow-
ers, which may be sown in pots, and forwarded there to early per-
fection.

108
FEBRUARY.

DESIGNS FOR A KITCHEN-GARDEN.

THE Kitchen-garden is a principal district of garden-ground
allotted for the culture of all kinds of esculent herbs and roots for
culinary purposes, &c.

This may be said to be the most useful and consequential depart-
ment of gardening; since its products plentifully supply our tables
with the necessary support of life: for it is allowed that health de-
pends much on the use of a proper quantity of wholesome vegeta-
bles; so that it is of the utmost importance for every person possessed
of a due extent of ground, to have a good Kitchen-garden for the
supply of his family. This garden is not only useful for raising all
sorts of esculent plants and herbage, but also all the choicer sorts
of tree and shrub-fruits, &c. both on espaliers and standards; and
the annual cultivation of the ground, by the manuring, digging,
hoeing. Sec. necessary in the culture of the esculent herbage, greatly
encourages all sorts of fruit-trees, preserves them in health and
vigour, so as always to produce large and fair fruit; for which rea-
son, in the Kitchen-garden should always be planted the choicest
sort of fruit-trees, particularly for espaliers and walls; likewise some
standards, if set a considerable way asunder, so as not to shade the
under-crops too much; and when the trees are judiciously disposed,
there will be nearly the same room for the crops of herbaceous t-scu-
lents as without them; so that this garden may be reckoned both as
a Kitchen and fruit-garden.

As to tlie situation of this garden, with respect to the other
districts, if designed principally as a Kitchen and fruit-garden,
distinct from the oilier parts, and that there is room for choice of
situation, it should generally be placed detached entirely from the
pleasure-ground; also as much out of view of the front of the ha-
bitation as possible, at some reasonable distance, either behind it, or
towards either side thereof, so as its walls or other fences may not
obstruct any desirable prospect either of the pleasure-garden, fields,
or the adjacent country; having regard, however, to place it, if pos-
sible, where the situation and soil is eligible, as hereafter illustrat-
ed; and if its situation is unavoidably such as to interfere with the
pleasure-gardens, so as its fences may be thought disagreeable to
view, they may be shut out from sight by intervening plantations of
shrubs and trees.

But as in many places they are limited to a moderate compass of
ground, and in others, though having scope enough, require but a
small extent of garden, you may, in either case, have the Kitchen,
fruit, and pleasure-garden all in one; having the principal walks
spacious, and the borders next them of considerable breadth; the
back part of them planted with a range of espalier fruit-trees, sur-

Feb.] the KITCHEN-GARDEN. 109

rounding; the quarters; the front with flowers and small shrubs;
and the inner quarters for the growth of the kitchen vegetables, ficc.

Situation, Soil, Water, Extent, Sfc.

As to situation, it can only be observed in general, that both high
and low, if the soil be suitable, will produce good crops of esculent
herbage and fruits; though a moderately low situation is the most
preferable, as being less exposed to the influence of cold cutting
winds in spring, and more retentive of moisture during the sum-
mer months; which are advantages worthy of attention, both on
account of the early and of the other principal crops. A situation hav-
ing a moderate slope is very eligible for this purpose, as in such a
spot there will not be any danger of water standing, nor of being
too wet at any season; and if it slopes toward the south, it is the
more desirable, as it will not only be better defended from
the cold north-westerly winds, but by its exposure or aspect
inclining to the sun, you may always expect to have the earliest
crops; or when the situation is in some parts a little elevated, or
gently sloping, and in others low and moist, it may be some advan-
tage, as the higher or sloping ground will suit some early crops, and
serve for wintering several sorts of plants that are impatient of co-
pious moisture in that season, such as artichokes, spinage, corn sal-
lad lettuce, Sec. and the low ground will be eligible for late summer
crops, as beets, kidney-beans, cauliflowers, cabbages, lettuce, and
several others. However, as to choice of situation and soil, this
only is practicable in large estates; but where persons are limited
to a moderate space, they must be content with such as nature af-
fords; observing in this case, that if the natural soil is of a proper
temperament and depth, you need not be under any great anxiety
about the situation, if it is moderately dry, and not apt to be
overflowed in winter; even in that case; it may be remedied, or
greaily helped, by digging two or three long narrow canals, and
from these some under-ground hollow drains, the earth from which
will help to raise the contiguous ground higher, and the water in
the canals will be convenient for watering the plants, iiemarking
that a situation too wet in winter should be guarded against as much
as the nature of the place will admit; for in such land you can never
have early nor good general crops, nor will the fruit-trees be prospe-
rous.

With respect to soil, that for a Kitchen-garden, of all others,
requires to be naturally good, of depth enough for the growth of
the large perpendicular esculent roots, as carrots, parsneps, red
beet, horse radish, &c. also for the growth of fruit-trees, a very
material article; so that the proper soil for these general purposes
should, if possible, be from about a foot and a half, to two feet
deep, or more; but much less than a foot and a half depth will be
a disadvantage: so much depends upon the quality of the soil for a
Kitchen and fruit-garden, thai where there is scope of ground to
chuse from, we cannot be loo cautious at first in fixing on a proper

IIQ THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [Feb.

spot, where the soil is good, and deep enough, as above, before
gravel, clay, or other bad soils are come at; whicli sh.ould always be
more pui ticulariy attended to when designed to furnish the ground
with a choice collection of fruit-trees, either for walls, espaliers, or
standards; for, without a due depth of good earth, these will neither
bear well, nor be of long duration.

Different, sort^s of soils are met with in different parts, as loamy,
clayey, sandy, Sec. A loamy soil, either of a brown or black colour,
is the best that can be for this purpose, more particularly a light
sandy h^zei loam, which always works pliable at all seasons, not apt
to be too wet and cloggy at every shower of rain, nor bind in dry
hot weather; this soil, however, although in many places it is the
most general superficial earth, is not common lo all parts. A
clayey, strong, stubborn soil, is the worst of all earths, and must be
mended by sandy materials, ashes, and other loosening light sub-
stances. A sandy soil is common in many places, which is of a
very light sharp nature; this must be fertilized by plenty of rotten
dung, and strong earths, where they can be easily procured.

It is observable that ground, which constantly produces good
crops of grain and grass, is also proper for the growth of all esculent
herbs and fruit-trees.

Chuse, however, the best soil you can, according to the situation
and extent of your ground; and if it happens to prove unfavoura-
ble, art must assist; for if it is of a light sandy nature, it may easily
be mended by adding a quantity of any kind of rotten or other good
dung; and if of a very light, sharp, hungry temperament, earths of
stronger substance, such as loam, and the like, if it can be easily ob-
tained, must be added occasionally along with plenty of dung, work-
ing the whole with the natural soil of the garden; and should your
garden be of a clayey, cold, damp nature, add light materials, both
of rieh composts, and light sandy soils; nothing is more proper,
where it can be had, than plenty of coal ashes, &c. for opening and
warming all tough, stubborn, cold soils.

Water is a very essential article in a Kitchen-garden in summer,
to water all new transplanted plants, and others that cannot subsist
without a due supply of m isture during the drought of that season;
therefore, in large gardens, where practicable, one or more re-
servoirs of water should be contrived in the most convenient part of
the ground, either in basons or narrow canals, and supplied with
water from some contiguous spring, river, brook, pond, well, &c.

The necessary space of ground proper for a family Kitchen-
garden, may be from about a quarter of an acre, or less, to six or
eight acres, or more, according to the appropriated lin)its of ground,
the number and demand of the family, the consumption by sales,
or the expense the proprietor would choose to bestow on the
making and general culture A Kitchen-garden of an acre will
nearly employ one man, especially if it be furnished with espalier
and other fruit trees, and so in proportion to a garden of smaller or
larger extent: a garden of the above size will produce a very plen-
tiful supply of esculent herbage and fruit, sufficient at least for a

Feb.] the KITCHEN-GARDEN. 1 1 1

family of ten or fifteen persons; but on large estates, and where
the family is considerable in proporlion, and not limited to space of
ground, three or four acres of Kitchen-garden may be necessary;
and some very large families have them of six or eight acres
extent.

If the produce is intended for sale, the garden must be large in
proportion to the demand.

Fences for inclosing the Ground.

With respect to fences for inclosing the ground, it is most neces-
sary to have an effectual fence of some sort around the Kitchen-
garden, both for security of the produce, and to defend tender and
early crops from cutting winds.

Previous to fencing the ground, the proper shape or form for the
garden is to be considered; the most eligil.le form for a Kitchen-
garden, is that either of a square, or oblong square; but the figure
may be varied, as the necessity of the case may require; keeping,
however, as near as possible, to the square or oblong form, espe-
cially if the ground is to be fenced with materials for training fruit-
trees; no other shape answers so well for that purpose; for trial
having been made of circles, ovals, semi-circles, angles, Sic. none
succeed near so well as the square form.

Different sorts of fences are used for inclosing this ground, as
walls, palings, and hedges, 8cc.

Sometimes, board fences or palings, are used, both for protection
and for training fruit trees to. When such are intended for trees,
the boarding should be tongued and closely joined, edge to edge, so
as to form a plane or even surface, for the commodious training the
branches.

In gardens where no wall-trees are intended, a hedge, or bank and
hedge, is a very proper fence; which may be so trained, as to
form both an effectual fence against men and beasts, also to shelter
particular parts of the ground for raising early crops: a hawthorn
hedge is the most proper, though other sorts may be used.

No fencing, however, for a Kitchen-garden, where intended to
have wall trees, especially in the more northerly parts of the Union,
is equal to brick walls, which are considerably stronger, warmer,
and more durable than paling fences; and their natural warmth,
together with their reflection of the sun's heat, is the most effectual
for the growth, and ripening ef the latest and more delicate kinds
of fruit.

Hot-walls for forcing by fire-heat, &c. are often erected in large
Kitchen-gardens; for an account of which, see page 44.

Preparing and laying out the Ground.

The whole ground should be regularly trenched two spades
deep; observing if the soil is poor, or of bad quality, and wants
amendment, either of dung, or any of the materials before men-
tioned, such must previously be added, and then trenched in betwixt

112 THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [Fei.

the bottom and top spits, so as next year, when it comes to be dig-
ged again, the compost being well meliorated, will be worked up,
and mixed with the natural soil.

Do not omit enriching a.id improving the borders for the wall*
and espalier-trees, by adding a considerable portion of rotten
dung; and if the natural soil is not good, add also, if possible, some
good loamy earth from the surlace of a field or pasture common,
either to the whole, or rather than fail, a few barrow-fulls at first to
each place where a tree is to stand, and improve the rest afterwards
by degrees, at leisure.

The ground must be divided into compartments for regularity
and convenience. A border must be carried round, close to the
boundary-walls or fences, not less than five, but if six or eight feet
wide, the better, both for raising various early and other kitchen
crops, and for the benefit of the wall-trees, if any, that their roots
may have full scope to run in search of nourishment; and moreover,
the annual digging and stirring the ground for the culture of the
herbaceous esculents, greatly encourages the trees: hence the uti-
lity of having a broad border. Next to this border a walk should be
contmued also all around the garden, of propei' width, as mentioned
below; then proceed to divide the interior parts into two, four, or
more principal divisions and walks, if its extent be large; first, if
the ground is of some considerable width, a straight walk should run
directly through the middle of the garden; and another, if thought
necessary, may be directed across the ground, intersecting the first;
and if the garden extends any considerable length, two or more such
cross walks may be necessary; the width of the walks may be from
about five to ten or twelve feet, in proportion to the extent of the
garden; and each of the quarters should be surrounded with a five or
six feet wide border; and a range of espalier fruit trees may be
planted along towards the back-part of each border, so that every
quarter will be inclosed with an espalier; which will be ornamental
in growth, and profitable in the annual production of superior fruit
of different kinds.

I would not, however, by any means advise dividing small or
moderate-sized gardens into too many walks and small quarters,
especially if they are to be surrounded by espaliers, which would
render them too confined for the proper growth of culinary herbage;
besides, it would be wasting too much of the ground in walks.

In one of the quarters a place should be allotted for the framing-
ground; that is, a place for making the hot-beds for raising early
cucumbers, melons, and other tender plants; fixing on a spot for
this pui pose, full to the sun from rising to setting, sheltered as
much as possible from the northerly winds, and conveniently situated
for bringing in the dung for the hot-beds.

* Observe, that all trees planted against and trained to cither paling- or
board fences, &c. producing fruit on one side only, are denominated wall-
trees, as well as if planted to actual brick or stone walls; in contradistinction
to espalier trees, which produce fruit on both sides.

Feb.] the KITCHEN-GARDEN. 113

This place, if not so situated as to be sheltered by the walls, or
other fences of the garden, it will be of much advantage to inclose
it with a close fence of some kind, serving both to break off" the winds,
and by having a door to lock, will preserve your crops more secure;
these fences may be six or seven feet high in the back or north side,
with both the side fences sloping gradually to about five feel height
in front; which should always be lowest to admit the sun freely

With regard to the borders and walks of this garden, the outer
borders adjoining the walks should be neatly formed, the edges
made firm and straight, and the walk gravelled, or laid with other
dry materials.

The edges of the borders in small gardens are frequently plant-
ed with box, Sec. especially in gardens where the Kitchen and plea-
sure-ground are all in one; sometimes, part are edged with un-
dershrubby aromatic herbs, as thyme, savory, hyssop, and the
like; but unless these are kept low and neat, they appear unsight-
ly; some, however, use no planted edgings at all in Kitchen-gar-
dens, only have the edge of the border made up even, treading it
firm that it may stand, then cut it straight by line; sometimes along
the top of this edging is planted a row of strawberries, a foot or fif-
teen inches asunder; they will bear plentifully and have a good ef-
fect; observing to string them several times in summer, to preserve
them neat and within due compass.

Sometimes grass-walks are used; but these are rather improper
for general use in Kitchen-gardens, especially in such parts of the
garden where wheel-barrows are obliged to come often, which
would cut and greatly deface them; besides, they are apt to be wet
and disagreeable in all wet weather, and in winter; but if any are
intended for summer's walking, they should be only in some dry
part of the garden; and never let them be general; for, besides the
aforementioned inconveniences, they are apt to harbour slugs and
other crawling vermin, to the detriment of the adjacent crops.

The espaliers should be planted in one range round each main
quarter, about four to five or six feet from the outer edge of the
border, in proportion to its width, and from about fifteen to twenty
feet asunder, according to the sorts of fruit-trees you plant.

Within the espaliers in the qua.rters, you may plant some standard
and fruit-trees, of the ciioicer sorts, at fifty feet or more distance
each way, especially the large- growing standards, that they may not
shade the ground too much.

Likewise in the quarters may be planted the small kinds of fruit-
shrubs, as gooseberries, currants, and raspberries, in cross rows,
so as to divide the quarters into breaks of twenty or thirty feet wide,
or more; others in a single range along near the outward edges,
or some in continued plantations; placing the bushes nine feet
asunder in each row; and if kept somewhat fan-spreading the way
of the rows, they will not incumber the ground, and will bear very
plentiful crops of large fruit; besides, between these rows you can
have various early and late crops of vegetables.

In many places, however, as formerly noticed, there is but a
small compass of ground, or so limited as to be obliged to have the

P

.X14 THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [Feb.

Kitchen, fruit, and pleasure-gardens, all in one, or at least often all
within the same general inclosure; in which case, if any distinct
part of the ground is required for ornament, a portion of ii next the
house may be laid out in a lawn or grass-plat, bounded with a shrub-
bery; beyond which have the Kitchen-ground, separating it also
from the other with shrubbery comparunents: the Kitchen-garden
may also be kiid out with ornamental walks and borders, having a
broad border all round; and next this, a ^valk from five or six to eight
feet wide, carried all round the garden, in proportion to its size;
and, if the ground is of some considerable width, may have one of
sinular dimensions extended directly through the middle; and next
the walks, have a border of four or five, to six or seven feet wide,
carried round the quarters or principal divisions; which border, if
i-aised a little sloping from the from to the back part, will appear
better than if quite flat; planting a range of espalier fruit-trees
along towards the back edge of the border, so as immediately to
surround the quarters, allotting the outsides of the borders for small
esculents, or flowers, and small flowering shrubs, having the edges
planted with box. Sec. or some with strawlierries and other edg-
ing-plants, and the walks neatly laid with gravel, or other ma-
terials before-mentioned; the inside, within the^ espaliers, to be the
Kitchcn-gi'ound, dividing it, if thought necessary, by rows of
gooseberry, currant, and raspberry plants.

But when necessary to have the whole space of the Kitchen-gar-
den employed for real use, no ground should be lost in ornamental
borders and walks: have a border all round the boundary-fence,
five or six feet wide, except the south borders, which should be
seven or eight feet broad, because of their great use for raising
early crops; and have a walk round the garden, not more than a
yard to five or six feet wide; allowing the same width for the mid-
dle-walks, or so as to admit of wheel barrows passing to bring in
the manure, he. and may either have a four feet wide border all
round each quarter, next the walks, or not, as you shall think pro-
per; laying the walks neatly with any gravelly materials, or with
coal-ashes, &,c. so as to have dry walking, and wheeling with a
barrow in all weathers.

General Culture of the Ch^ound.

With respect to the general culture of the Kitchen-garden — it
consists principally in a general annual digging; proper manuring;
sowing and planting the crops properly; pricking out, planting, and
transplanting various particular crops; keeping the ground clean
from weeds; and watering the crops occasionally in summer.

As to digging — a general digging must be performed annually in
winterer spring, for the reception of the principal crops; also as
often as any new crops are to be sown or planted at any season of
the year; remarking, that, the general digging for the reception of
the main crops of principal esculents in spring, I should advise to
be performed by trenching either one or two spades deep, be-
sides the paring at top; though, except for some deep-rooting

Feb.] the KITCHEN-GARDEN. 115

plants, as carrots, parsneps, &c. one good spade deep may be suf-=
ficient for cooimon trenching, unless on particular occasions, to
trench as deep as the good soil admits, to turn the exhausted earth
to the boitom, and the fresh to the top to renew the soil. However
you should be careful not to trench deeper than the proper soil; and
the trenching only one spade deep, will much more effectually
renew the soil than plain diggin^^; and by paring the top of each
trenching, two or three inches deep into the bottom, all seeds of
weeds on the surface are thereby buried so deep, that they cannot
grow; and I should likewise advise that the general digging be
performed principally, especially in stiff ground, before the setting
in of the winter frosts, or early m spring; but it would be better
done if, some considerable time before the season for putting in the
crops, that the ground might have the advantage of fallow, to melio-
rate and enrich it; and always let the ground be trenched in rough
ridges, that it may receive all possible benefit from the sun, air,
rains, frost, Sec. to fertilize and pulverize the soil, before it is levelled
down for the reception of seeds and plants; and this levelling down
will be an additional improvement, in breaking, dividing, and melio-
rating the earth. Plain digging, however, may be sufficient for
fnost of the slight crops, especially in summer or autumn, after
the ground has been trench-digged in the general winter or spring
digging.

As to manure — any kind of dung, or compost of dung and earth,
is proper; and if this could be suited to the nature of the soil, it
would be of greater advantage, that is, for ground of a strong,
heavy, cold nature, have for manure, a compost of well-rotted dung,
ashes, or any sandy earths; and if light sandy ground, have the
moistest sort of dung, and heavy earths; though any kind of well-
rotted dung will suit as proper manure for almost every soil, but
none better than the dung of old hot-beds, which is the most com-
mon manure in kitchen-gardens, being horse stable-dung, first
used in hot beds, where ii becomes rotted to a soft, moist tempe-
rament, of an extremely enriching quality, and suits almost all
kinds of soil and plants; or some of the same quality from dung-
hills is equally eligible; but well rotted neat's dung is also very
good, particularly for light grounds; or a compost of different kinds,
as horse-dung, neat's-dung, hog's-dungs, farm-yard-dung, or mulch,
ashes, lime-rubbish broken small, sawdust, rotten tan, having all
lain together till well rotted, will make excellent compost manure.

The manuring, or dunging the ground, may be necessary every
year or two; for all crops being of an exhausting nature in every
soil, the vegetative vigour of the soils must be supported accord-
ingly by a proper application of manure; but once every two or
three years, at furthest, the ground in general will want amend-
ment; though, where there is plenty of dung, give it as far as it
will go every year, especially for the i)rincipal crops, such as onions,
cauliflowers, cabbages, &c. for as the different crops exhaust the
soil, the addition of dung fertilizes and renews it; which when duly
applied in proper quantities, the various crops will not only be much
finer, but arrive to earlier perfection than in poor starved ground.

im THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [Feb.

But for some particular crops, ground which has been well ma-
nured the year before, will be more eligible, than if immediately
fresh dunged the same year; such as for some of the long fusiform-
rooted kinds, as carrots and parsneps, &c. unless the dung is per-
fectly rotted, mellow and mouldy, that these long roots can readily
make their way straight through in their perpendicular, downward
growth; for when the dung manure is rank or lumpy, it is very
apt to impede the young descending radicle, and occasion the
main root to fork or grow crooked; more especially the carrots,
which also in some fresh-dui ged ground, ai'e sometimes apt to
canker.

All manuring should generally be performed in winter or spring,
to be dug in at the general annual digging; taking opportunity of
frosty, or very dry weather, to wheel in the dung for the principal
manuring; as it may then be performed more easy and clean without
clogging or spoiling the walks, or tearing up the ground; laying
it in heaps by burrow-fulls at equal distances; afterwards spread it
evenly, and dig it in one spade deep, or more.

In regard to cropping the ground, the proper situation for, and
method of raising the different plants, is fully explained in the dif-
ferent months under their respective heads; I will therefore only
hint here, tiiat it is eligible to allot the driest, warmest, and most
sunny situation, for the early crops, and the other parts for the main
crops.

The south borders are proper for raising the earliest plants, as
early peas, beans, radishes, spinach, lettuce, carrots, snaall sallad-
herbs, kidney-beans, Sec. the east and west borders for succession
of early crops; and the north borders, which being shady and cool,
serve for raising and prickmg out many small plants, slips and
cuttings in summer; though all these borders, in every exposure,
may be made useful at all seasons. The borders next the espaliers
are proper for crops of small plants at all seasons of the year as
lettuce, endive, spinach, small sallad-herbs, strawberries, and seve-
ral others, both to stand, and for transplantation, according to the
mode of culture of the different sorts; and by keeping all the bor-
ders constantly well furnished with various esculents, disposed ac-
cording to their different growths, they, besides their usefulness,
effect a delightful variety.

In the internal parts, called the quarters should always be raised
the larger principal crops, such as cabbages, cauliflowers, broccoli,
coleworts, peas, beans, kidney-beans, onions, leeks, carrots, pars-
neps, beets, potatoes, turneps, artichokes, celery, general crops of
lettuce, spinach, horse-radish, 8cc.

As many of the esculent plants succeed best in rows, such as
peas, beans, cauliflowers, and all the cabbage kinds, transplanted
lettuces, endive, potatoes, artichokes, Jerusalem artichokes, celery,
and some others, particular regard is requisite, that the rows are
at proper distances for the plants to have full scope to grow, and
would advise that all the tall-growing sorts, sown in drills, such as
peas, beans, kidney-beans. Sec. for early crops, have their rows
ranging north and south, if possible, that the sun may shine on

Feb.] the KITCHEN-GARDEN. 117

each side of the rows more effectually, as well as on the ground be-
tween the rows; both of which are of more advantage to early crops
than may be generally imagined; for when the rows range east and
west, one row shades another, so that when the plants grow up, they
cannot ail receive an equal benefit of the sun.

The great art in cropping a kitchen-garden, is to make the most
of every part of the ground, where necessary; by having each quarter
well occupied with as many crops annually as possible; as practised
by the experienced market-gardeners and others, who have occasion
to cuUivate the whole kitchen ground to every possible advantage;
often having two or three different crops advancing in successive
order tot!;ether on the same compartment, especially where the prin-
cipal crops are in wide rows, as in cauliflowers, cabbages, beans, &.c.
Other kinds are frequently inter-cropped, at proper periods, with
those of peculiar growth in the respective sorts; not to impede each
other, nor the principal crops above intimated. Sometimes slight
crops of quick growth are sown to come off soon, or by the time the
others begin to advance considerably; or sometimes, in the advanced
state of the main crops, they are inter-cropped with others of a more
continuing: and larger growth to be coming forward, ready, as the
others are going off; fully occupying the same spot in a succession of
crops in some advanced growth, whereby both time and ground are
occasionally gained; thou.i>:h, where there is a plentiful scope of
kitchen-ground, especially in private gardens, any considerable
inter-cropping would be unnecessary, as generally each sort raised
separately, will, in some degree, be superior: however, on the other
hand, as in many places the kitchen-ground is much limited, it is
incumbent on the occupier or cultivator, to inter-crop occasionally,
where it can be done with a good prospect of success, agreeably to
the above intimations. With regard to the different methods of
sowing, and planting the different crops, these shall be designated
in the course of the work.

Destroying weeds is a most necessary culture in the Kitchen-
garden, which must be very particularly attended to; for the success
of the crops greatly depends thereon, and wiihout a full determina-
tion to keep them clean, it is in vain to sow or plant any.

The utmost attention is necessary never to suffer weeds to perfect
their seeds in any part, whether in cropped or vacant quarters, or on
dung-hills, or compost-heaps, as they would lay the foundation
of several years trouble to extirpate them; for, as in digging and
hoeing the ground, some of the seed would be buried near the sur-
face, and others much deeper, at every time of Stirling the earth, a
fresh crop of weeds would arise from the same stock of seeds,
which versifies the saying, " one years seeding, makes seven years
weeding."

Work to be done in this month.

The various preparations for early crops, noticed last month in
page 9, &c. I would again recommend to your particular atten-
tion, as you ought to " take time by the forelock" at this season,

lis THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [Feb.

and have as much as possible in a state of forwardness, in order to
ease the great press of business, which will naturally come on next
month.

Cucumbers and Melons.

Where the raising of early cucumbers and melons was not begun
last month, it may now he commenced the beginning or middle of
this, with a greater prospect of success; observing exactly the same
method of making the seed hot-bi-d, sowing the seed, and the gene-
ral management of the bed and plants, as directed under the head
Cucumbers, 8cc. in the Kitchen-garden for Januarij.

Ridging out early Cucumbers and Melons.

If the cucumber and melon plants, which were raised last month,
or the beginning of this, have not suffered by any of the accidents that
are attendant on them at this season, the former are now, and the
latter will, in the course of this month, be arrived to a proper growth
for ridging out into a larger hot-bed, finally to remain.

A new bed or beds, for one or more large frames, should there-
fore be prepared in due time for the reception of these plants, and
made in the same manner as directed in January, pages 1 2 and 1 3 ; ob-
serving, that such must be three feel and a half, or four feet high,
when finished; for a less depth of dung will not produce the neces-
sary heat which these plants require at this inclement season; and,
besides, if the beds were made of a more shallow depth, their heat
would be soon spent, and lining could not be applied to them with
so much advantage: for the latter reason particularly, they must be
made wholly above ground.

The bed being finished, put on the frame or frame and lights,
which will defend it from wet, and bring up the heat the sooner;
tilting the upper ends of the lights a little, that the steam may pass
off. In a week after the bed is made, if it has settled unequally,
take off the frame, and make the bed level; then immediately put it
on again for good.

After this, let the state of the bed be daily examined with good
attention; and when you find the violent heat is over, lay in the
earth; but be sure to let that first pass away.

The earth for this purpose should be rich, and tolerably dry; for
that is a material article to be regarded at this season. The earth
proper for cucumbers may be either any prepared compost of rich
loam and rotten dung, or of the temperatuie of light rich kitchen-
garden soil; but to prepare for this, you ought, about the laiter end
of Sept. or in October, (if the most convenient) to take from some
quarter of the kitchen-garden, which is naturally light and dry,
and well enriched by manure, a sufficient quantity of earth, and
throw it up in a heap ridge-ways, in some dry place, open to the
sun and air; mixing therewith at the same time some good rotten
dung, breaking and blending the whole well together; a due quan-
tity of this compost-heap should be carried into some shed, or
other sheltered place, open in front to the sun or free air, a month

Feb.] the KITCHEN-GARDEN. 119

or a fortnight at least before you want it, that it may be preserved
perfectly dry for earthing the bed.

Then, when the bed is in order, lay about half a bushel, or rather
move, of earth, under the middle of each light, rising each parcel of
earth in a round hillock about ten inches high; let the spaces
between the hills, and quite to the sides of the frame, be covered
with the same sort of earth, only t»vo or three inches thick at this
time, while the bed is in strong heat, for lear of burning, as explained
below; but which, when the heat is become moderate, is by degrees
to be augmented, till raised as high as the top of the hills, as here-
after directed.

The reason for laying the earth in little hills, and not earthing the
bed fully at once, is by way of precaution, in case of violent after-
heat, in which case it will more readily pass off in steam, between
the hills; and likewise, because we may venture to use the bed
some days sooner than if it was earthed all over at once to the full
thickness; for, if the bed should burn after the plants are in, you
can more readily prevent the earth, and also the roots of the plants
from being burnt thereby, by drawing the earth away from round
the bottom of the hills, if it burns, and supplying the places with
more fresh mould.

As soon as the bed is earthed as above, put on the glasses; and by
the next day, the hillocks of earth will be warm; if they are, level
the top of each a little, so that they may be about eight or nine
inches deep; then proceed to put in the plants, the cucumbers and
melons separately, in different hot-beds, or distinct frames, &c.

Previous to this, observe, that as having last month directed the
plants to be pricked into small pots, three in each separately; and
as they are now to be turned out of these pots with the balls of earth
entire, and planted, one pot of plants in each of the above hills,
I would intimate, in this final transplanting, that two of the
best cucumber plants, and only one melon, would be sufficient to
remain, cutting the others away as soon after planting as you are
able to distinguish which are most likely to do well; however, it is
adviseable, previously to transplanting, that, in order to have the
whole ball of earth adhere closely about the roots, to give the pots
some water the day before; and the method of planting is this:
having some pots of the strongest plants ready, place your hand on
the surface of the pot, taking the stems of the plants carefully be-
tvveen your fingers; then turn the mouth of the pot downwards,
and strike the edge gently on the frame; the plants, with the ball
of earth to their roots, will come out entire; then making a hole
in the middle of each hill of earth, place one pot of plants, with the
ball entire, in each hole, closing the earth well round it, and
about an inch over the top, bringing the earth close round the stems
of the plants; this done, shut down all the lights close for the pre-
sent, till the steam rises again strong; then they must be tilted a
little behind, in proportion, to give it vent.

The plants being ridged out finally into the beds where they are
to remain for fruiting, you must be careful to give them fresh air
every day, by raising the glasses a little for its admission, and for

120 THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [Feb.

the great steam to pass off; and it is necessary to cover the lights
every night with mats, putting them on about half an hour before the
lime of sun-seuing, or a little earlier or later as the weather happens
to be either mild or severe, and uncover them in the mon\ing,
as soon after the sun begins to shine on them, or after sun-rising as
the state of the weather will permit: in covering up, observe, that
while the bed is very hot, and the steam copiously rising, never to
let the ends of the mats hang down over the dung outside of the
frame, which would draw up a hurtful steam, and stifle the plants.

Air must be admitted to them every day, when the weather is
any way favourable, by raising the upper ends of the glasses from
about half an inch to an inch or two, or in proportion to the sharp-
ness or mildness of the outward air and internal heat and steam of
the bed.

In giving the plants air, it is a good method, at this season,
especially in severe cutting weather, to fasten a mat across the ends
of the lights, where tilted, to hang down detachedly over the place
where the air enters the frame; the mat will break the wind and
sharp air before it reaches the plants, and yet there will be a due
proportion admitted, without exposing them directly to it; and
there will also be full liberty to let the steam pass off.

Likewise, in covering the glasses on nights with mats, if
there be a strong heat and great steam in the bed, let the lights be
raised a little behind when you cover up; let them remain so all night,
and use the mats as above mentioned, to hang down low before the
place where the glasses are raised, but this must be done with cau-
tion in very severe frost.

One great article to be attended to now, is to support a constant
temperate heat in the hot-bed, so as to keep the plants in a regular
growing state. The first thing to be observed towards this is, that
in six or eight days after ridging out the plants, provided the heat
of the bed is become moderate, it will be very proper to give some
outward protection of dry, long litter, waste hay, fern, straw, leaves
of trees, Sec. laying it close round the sides a foot thick, and as
high as five or six inches up the sides of the frame; but this will
be particularly serviceable in very wet weather, but more especially,
in driving cold rains, or snow, and also, if there be cold piercing
winds, all of which would chill the bed, and, without the above pre-
caution, would sometimes occasion such a sudden and great decay of
the heat, as to prove the manifest destruction of the plants; whereas
the above lining will defend the bed, and preserve a fine heat till
the dung begins naturally to decliiie or decay of itself, which is
generally in about three wee];s or a month after the bed is made,
when the warmth of it must be renewed by adding a lining of fresh
hot dung close to its sides and ends.

But for the first week or ten days after the plants are ridged out
into this hot-bed, mind that their roots have not too much heat; for
it sometimes happens that a bed, after the mould and plants are in,
(the earth confining the heat and steam below in the dung,)
will begin afresh to heat so violently, as to be in danger of burning
the earth at the bottom of the hills: and without some precaution

Feb.j the kitchen-garden. 12i

is taken, the burning will soon r£ach the roots of the plants; there-
fore, for the first week or ten days, let the bottom of these hills be
at times examined, by drawing away a little of the earth below;
and if any burning appears, remove the burnt earth, replace it with
new; and by drawing some away quite round, let the hills be kept
as narrow as they will just stand, so as to support the plants, and
let them remain till the danger of burning is over; when you may
replace it again.

When the great heat abates, or the roots of the plants begin to appear
through the sides of the hills, then add some fresh, light, rich earth
all around them; about three days after, you may lay some more;
and in two or three days after that, you may earth the bed all over,
to the full thickness. But before you lay the fresh earth to the
sides of the hills, let it be first laid a few hours, or for one night, in
the frame, up towards the sides, that it may acquire an equal
degree of warmth with that in the bed; then, being applied as
above, it will not be in danger of chilling the roots of the plants.

The next particular care is that of lining the hot-bed when the
heat declines; therefore, when the heat of the bed begins to decrease
much, let a lining of the best hot dung be applied in due time
to the back or front of tlie bed, or to both, if the heat is
very much declined. The dung for this purpose should be prepar-
ed in the same mcinner as that for making the bed. Remember,
that if ihere was a lining of dry litter laid round the sides of the
bed, to defend it from wet, &c. as before directed, this must first
be removed before you apply the lining: then line the sides of the
bed, about from twelve to fifteen or eighteen inches wide, according as
the heat is less or more declined, which should be raised about four or
live inches higher than the dung of the bed, to allow for settling:
lay some earth on the top of the lining, to keep the rank steam of
the fresh dung from coming up that way; which, if it did, would be
apt to enter the frame, at the place where the lights are raised to
admit air, and prove of bud consequence to the plants.

Of stopping or topping the above Plants.

The young plants, both cucumbers and melons, should be stopped
or topped, if not done before, at the first joint* by pruning off the
top of the first runner bud; which is necessary to promote a stocky
growth, and cause them to put forth lateral shoots at the first and
second joints, to form fruitful runners; and from these, others of the
same nature will be produced.

This operation should be performed when the plants have two
rough leaves, and when the second is about an inch broad, having
the first runner-bud rising at its base; the sooner this is detached,
the sooner the plants acquire strength, and put out fruitful runners.

It is to be done in the following manner:

You will see arising, in the centre of the plant, at the bottom of
the second rough-leaf, the end of the first runner, like a ^mall bud;
which bud or runner, being the advancing top of the plant, is now
to be taken off elose, and may be done either with the point of a

Q

122 THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [Feb.

pen-knife or small scissars, or pinched off carefully with the finger
and thumb; but which ever way you take it off, be careful not to go
so close as to wound the joint from whence it proceeds.

Having thus pruned or stopped the plants at the first joint, they
will by that means very quickly get su^ength, as will plainly apjjear
in a few days; and in about a week, or ten or twelve days after being
thus treated, will each begin to send forth two or three runners;
which runners will probably show fruit at their first, second, or
third joints; for if the main or first runner was not to be stopped
as above, it would perhaps run half a yard or two feet in length,
without putting out more runners to fill the frame, or probably
without showing a single fruit; for it is upon these lateral shoots
or runners, pi'oduced after stopping the plants, that you may expect
fruit to appear in any tolerable time in the season; but let it be also
observed, that when the said lateral shoots have three joints, and
that if any of them do not then show fruit at either of these, it
will be proper to pinch off the top of such shoots at the third
joint; which will promote their putting forth a supply of two or
three new shoots, some or all of which will most likely be fruitful;
and after this, according as they advance in growth, train the run-
ners along in regular order, cut out casual very weakly vines, and
thin others where very irregularly crowded: thus, if the bed is well
managed, and the plants are forward, those of the cucumbers will
probably produce proper-sized fruit at the end of this month, or be-
ginning or middle of the next; but the melons not so soon by six or
eight weeks. — See next month.

Of soivhig Cucumber and Melon Seed.

As there may be many persons who did not begin last month to
sow cucumbers for an early crop, it will here be proper to take no-
tice, that the beginning, middle, or any time of this month, is still
a good time to begin that work, making a hot-bed for sowing the
seed, as directed in January^ page 12 and 13.

Those which are sown early in this month, will, with good ma-
nagement, produce fruit in the end of March, or beginning of
April; and those sown in the middle or latter end of the month
will have fruit at the end of April, and will bear plentifully in May.

The beginning of this month is a very good time to sow melons
for a full crop in the frames.

The seed hot-bed which is to be made now, either for cucumbers
or melons, must be of the same dimensions; and the seeds sown,
and plants managed, as directed last month.

But observe, that to be well supplied with cucumber or melon
plants, either to plant in new beds, or to have a reserve in case of ac-
cidents happening to any already planted out, it will be very proper
to sow some seeds at three different times this month.

These may be sown in such cucumber hot-beds as are already
made and in cultivation, and when fit to prick out, plant them in
small pots, as directed last month, which may be plunged in the back
part of the same bed, where they may be kept till wanted, either
for new, or to supply any deficiency in the present beds.

Feb.] the KITCHEN-GARDEN. i%^

Forcing Asparagus.

Hot-beds for forcing early asparagus, may be made any time this
moiilh, for which purpose you must be provided with proper plants;
these are previously raised in the natural ground from seed, as
hereafter directed, which being transplanted from the seed-bed into
others duly prepared for their reception, and having two or three
years growth there, they then are of the proper size and strength
for forcing. But observe, that in those parts of the Union where
the ground is subject at this season to be bound up by frost, pre-
vious precaution will be necessary, in order to secure a supply of
plants when wanted for this purpose; therefore, before the setting
in of the severe winter frost, cover a sufficient number in the beds
wherein they are growing, with as much dry litter or leaves of
trees, 8cc. as will effectually keep the ground from being frozen, so
that you can remove it, and take up the plants conveniently when
wanted.

Or you may, on the approach of severe frosts, take up a sufficient
quantity with as little injury to the roots as possible, which may be
planted in sand or dry earth in a warm cellar, in the same manner
as directed for planting them in the frame, covering their crowns
about an inch, observing not to croud the plants for fear of their be-
coming mouldy; and in mild weather ventilate the cellar as often as
possible, to prevent any bad effect to the roots from stagnant air:
but when it can be done, it will be much better to take up the plants
out of their beds according as you want them.

The necessary quantity for a three-light frame is from three to
four hundred plants, and so in proportion for any number of frames; ,
the plants in such beds ought to be set very close, in order that by
having as many as possible in each frame, they may produce a pro-
portionable supply, to recompence sufficiently for the trouble and
expense of forcing them.

A bed for this purpose is to be made in like manner as those di-
rected for cucumbers in pages 12 and 13, but very substantial; then
put on the frame, and earth it all over six or seven inches deep, for
the immediate reception of the plants.

The bed being made and earthed as above, and a sufficient quantity
of plants in readiness, proceed to planting by raising at one end a
small ridge of earth about three or four inches high, against which
place a row of plants close to one another, drawing some earth to
the bottom of the roots; then place others against these in the
same manner, and so continue till the frame is full; all having their
tops or crowns upright, and of an equal level. When the whole
bed is thus planted, cover the crowns of the roots all over with light
rich earth, about two inches deep, which concludes the work for the
present.

You may now put on the lights, which are to be kept open, rais-
ed high behind, or slided down every day, except m very severe
weather, but at night let them be closed: give all the air possible so
that you do not Buffer the earth in the bed to be frozen or chilled, by

424 '^HE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [Fkb.

rain or snow, till the buds bei<in to appear; wlien you are to give
them another covering of ihree or four inches of the same kind of
mould as before, so that the crowns may be covered in the whole
about six inches deep.

But it must be remarked, that for the first week or fortnight
after the bed is made, and the asparagus planted, that the state of
its warmth should be every day carefully examined: for that pur-
pose, thrust two or three sharp pointed sticks down betwixt
the roots into the dung, in different parts of the bed; when upon
drawing up the sticks, once or twice a day, and feeling the lower
ends, you can readily judge of the degree of heat; which if found
very violent, threatening to burn the earth and scorch the roots of
the plants, it must be moderated, by boring, with a long thick
stake, several wide holes in the dung, on each side of the bed, also
in the earth just under the roots, to admit the air, and to let the rank
steam and burning quality of the dung pass off more freely; but,
when the heat is become moderate, the holes must be closed again.

Likewise observe, when the heat is on the decline, it will be very
proper to lay a quantity of dry long litter round the sides of the
bed, which will preserve a fine kindly growing heat, and will defend
the bed from being chilled by heavy rains, snow, he.

In the next place when you find the heat of the bed beginning to
decline considerably, you should prepare to renew it as soon as pos-
sible: which is to be done by applying a lining of hot dung to the
sides as for cucumber and melon beds.

Fresh air must be admitted in fine weather daily, especially if the
heat of the bed is strong when the buds begin to appear through
this last covering of earth; for fresh air is necessary both to give
.them colour, and prevent their drawing up too fast and weak: there-
fore in fine sunny days, either lilt the upper ends of the lights an
inch or two, or shove then\ a little down, as may be convenient;
but keep them close in cold or very bad weather, and always on
nights.

Continue to cover the glasses every night especially after the
plants appear, with mats or straw.

The bed, if made and managed as above directed, will begin to
produce asparagus abundantly in four or five weeks; and, provided
the heat be kept up, will continue producing buds in great plenty
for about three weeks.

The method of gathering the asparagus in hot-beds is to thrust
your finger down gently into the earth, and break the buds off close
to the roots; but the cutting them with the knife, as practised in
the natural ground, would, by reason of the buds coming up so very
thick, destroy as many or more than you gather.

When it is intended to have a constant supply of asparagus ia
the winter and spring seasons, till that in the natural ground comes
in, you should iviake a new hot-bed every three weeks or a month.

A quantity of fresh plants must also be procured for every new
bed; for those wliich have i)een forced in a hot-bed, are not fit for
any use afterwards, either in the natural ground, or elsewhere.

Feb.] the KITCHEN-GARDEN. 125

When designed to raise asparagus plants for forcing, you should
sovv some seed every year, in a bed of rich earth, as directed in
March; observing, when the plants are one year old, to transplant
them into an open compartment, in roM^s, nine inches asunder, and
about the same distance in the rows. When they have two or
thre^ summers' growth, they are then fit to take up for forcing;
but if they stand three years before you take them up, they will
produce much larger buds.

It is necessary to have three different pieces of ground always
employed at the same time with asparagus plants for the above
purpose: that is, one for the seed-bed with seedling plants, which
should never stand longer than one year before transplanted; the
other two pieces to be occupied with transplanted plants; one to be
a year's growth from the time of planting, before the other; by
which method of sowing a quantity of plants every spring, you will,
after the first three years, obtain a fresh supply of proper plants
every year, of eligible age and growth, as above, for forcing.

In those states where there is not severe frost to be encountered
at this season, asparagus may be forced as directed above, without
the assistance of a frame and lights; but in lieu thereof, you must
arch the bed over with hoops; and protect it from heavy rains and
cold, with bass mats or other convenient covering, laid over these
hoops; and the earth on the beds must be confined, either with a
shallow frame or with straw-bands or ropes, three or four inches in
diameter; fixed down neatly along the edge of the bed, with sharp
pointed wooden pegs.

Mushrooms.

Take care that the mushroom-beds are still well defended from
heavy rains and frost; both of which would destroy the spawn.

The covering of straw should not be less than fourteen or six-
teen inches thick on every part of the bed; and at this season, it
would be proper to continue some large garden mats, spread over
the straw covering, to secure the bed more effectually from wet and
cold; and observing, that if the wet at any time has penetrated
quite through any part of the covering, the wet straw should be re-
moved, and replaced with some that is clean and dry.

If these beds are made under open sheds constructed for that
purpose, it will be a great advantage, particularly in protecting
them from too much wet, which is very injurious to them, especi-
ally during the winter season.

New mushroom -beds may now be made where wanted; for the
particular method, see October.

Kidney -Beans.

Where early kidney-beans are wanted, you may in the begin-
ning, or any time this month, make a hot-bed for raising them; let
this be made, as directed for cucumbers, to the height of three feet,
and long enough for one or more frames, which, with their glasses,

126 THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [Feb.

put on immediately; when the heat is come up, level the bed and
cover the dung seven or eight inches deep with rich light earth;
then draw drills from the back to the front a foot asunder, and an
inch deep; drop the beans therein two or three inches apart, and
smooth over the surface of the bed.

Or you may sow the beans thick in a small hot-bed, or in pots
therein, to raise the plants about an inch in growth, then transplant
them into a large hot-bed as above, to yield their produce.

The best sorts for this purpose, are the early cream-coloured
dwarfs, early speckled, white and yellow dwarfs; because these
kinds are of an early nature, and do not run so strong or rampant as
the other sorts.

When the plants begin to appear, raise the lights a little behind,
every mild day, to admit fresh air to strengthen their growth; give
also occasional gentle watei'ings, continue the same care in their
advancing state and support a proper heat in the bed: they will thus
afford an early produce in April, 8cc.

But where there is a hot-house, you may raise early kidney or
French beans, generally with much less trouble and more certain
success, than in hot-beds, as above.

Small Sallading'.

Continue to raise in hot-beds a regular supply of small sallading,
such as cresses, mustard, rape, radishes, lettuce, Sec. as directed in-
January, pages 19 and 20, which must be sown every eight or ten
days, in order to afford a proper succession; for at this season such
are more acceptable, and to many persons more palatable, than at
any other period of the year.

Towards the later end of the month, in the middle states, and
in all parts to the southward, you may begin to sow lettuce, and the
other different kinds of small sallading on warm well sheltered
south borders, especially if the great winter frosts have passed
away.

For this purpose dig the ground neatly, giving it an advantageous
slope towards the sun, rake the surface fine, and draw shallow
drills from north to south about three or four inches distant, sow
the seeds therein, each sort separate, very thick, and earth them
over not more than a quarter of an inch deep. If the season proves
favourable, you may expect tolerable success; but the more certain
way would be to cover these beds with frames and glasses, which
would not only forward them to perfection at an earlier period, but
also protect them from the various accidents incident to such early
crops in unfavourable seasons.

When these plants both under cover and in the open ground,
begin to come up, they sometimes, by rising very thick, raise the
earth in a kind of cake upon their tops, which consequently retards
their growth; they may be assisted by whisking the surface lightly
with your hand. Sec. to separate the earth; after which, the plants
will rise regularly.

Feb.] the KITCHEN-GARDEN. 1 27

When those coming up in the open ground, happen to be at-
tacked with morning hoar-frosts, and likely to be a sunny mild day, if
before the sun rises full upon them, you water them with fresh pump
or well water poured out of a watering-pot, with the head on, to
wash off the frosty rime, it will prevent their changing black and
going off.

Cauliflower Plants,

Continue to take particular care of your early cauliflower plants, as
directed in January, page 20, which see. Those early autumnal
sown plants, which you have in frames, and that you are endeavour-
ing to protect with a covering of boards and mats, See. without the
assistance of glass, should never have powerful sun-shine admitted
to them while in a frozen state; for its sudden action upon these ten-
der plants, whilst in that condition, would prove their total destruc-
tion; therefore admit it only at intervals, when weak, until the plants
and ground around them are completely thawed.

The cauliflower plants, which were raised from seed sown last
month, should as soon in this, as they may arrive at a sufiicient
size, which is about four or five inches, be transplanted into a new
moderate hot-bed, which will greatly strengthen and forward their
growth.

Make the bed two feet and a half high, and put a frame on, lay on
six inches deep of rich earth, when this is warm, prick the plants
therein two or three inches apart, and give them a little water; as
soon as they have taken root, give them plenty of air; and in mild
warm days, take the glasses totally off, but let them be carefully co-
vered every night, and the glasses only raised a lictle behind in cold
weather.

Plants thus treated will become strong and well rooted, bear trans-
planting much better than if left in the seed-bed, and produce lar-
ger and better heads; for by transplanting, the tap-roots are checked,
and the plants push a number of lateral roots, which afford them
nourishment and strength; they become short-stemmed and stout,
and consequently more fit for a final and successful transplantation
than if suffered to remain in the seed-bed.

Were these to be transplanted again early in March, into another
bed, it would be an additional advantage; it is by the neglect of this
necessary treatment, that we have so few good flowers, for the
plants when continued in the seed-bed till finally transplanted, be-
come long and spindling, tender and unfurnished with roots or
fibres; when planted out, for want of a sufficiency of roots, they are
notable immediately to extract the necessary supply of nourishment
from the earth, consequently become stunted, and either button, or
grow so miserably, as never to produce a good head.

When transplanted and furnished as above, and that the proper
season arrives for planting them out in the open ground, they are to
be taken up separately, with a hollow trowel or transplanter, preser-
ving as much earth as possible about the roots of each plant, and de-
posited where they are to flower; thus treated they will scarcely be
sensible of the removal, will continue in a constant and regular state

128 THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [Feb-

of veg'etation, and if protected for a few days, with garden pots or
other suitable coverings, from too powerful a sun, cT.rl ■cgularly at
night for ten or twelve days after planting, you may reasonable ex-
pect the desired success.

As it is from these early sowings that the greatest success may
be expected, in the United States; every care should be taken to pro-
mote their early growth and strength, in order that they may ar-
rive at due perfection before the commencement of the severe sum-
mer heat, which is found so injurious to all late cauliflowers.

Continue to give a due quantity of air to your cauliflower plants,
at all favourable opportunities; for, as observed in January^ it is an
extremely essential article.

Sowing Caulijlower Seed.

Sow some cauliflower seed in a hot-bed, the beginning, middle, or
at any time this month, but the earlier the better, to succeed those
sown in January, or incase none were sown at that time; for the me-
thod of doing which, see page 20.

If you have not the convenience of glass lights, these plants may
be raised with good success in Pa/ier Frames, or with particular at-
tention, you may succeed with coverings of mats, or boards and
mats.

Paper Frames.

These frames are made either like the cover of a waggon or the
roof of a house, and covered with oiled-paper instead of glass. They
have a frame of wood at the base, to which in the former, broad
hoops are fastened bent over circularly. The width of the frame
should be near five feet, the length nine or ten; the distance between
the hoops, not more than a foot, and there should be several rows of
strong pack thread or rope yarn, running from hoop to hoop, all
over, distant from each other about eight inches, and other lines
crossing and intersecting these, between the hoops or ribs of the
frame, which arrangements of lines are of essential service, for the
more eff'ectual support of the paper when pasted on the frame, and
to strengthen it against the power of winds and heavy rains.

The other sort of frame may be made with slips of pine or neat
laths, fastened to a roof-tree at the lop, and to the base-frame at
bottom. The pannels or lights ought to have hinges alternately at
each side, to open outward for giving air occasionally, on the side
from the wind, or on both sides if the weatlier is mild, and also for
performing other necessary culture.

The paper for this purpose should be of the larger strong printing
or demy kind; whicii previously to pasting on the frame, should be
moderately damped with water, that it may not sink in hollows af-
ter being fixed; as soon as thus prepared, proceed to paste it on
sheet by sheet, using for this purpose the very best kind of paste;
and contrive to have whole ones, along the ridge-rail above, extend-
ing lengthways iind across, to join regularly with thf sheets below;
pasting the whole in the most regular and secure manner, to the

Feb.] the KITCHEN-GARDEN. 129

frames, ribs, and pack-thread, and if, at the intersections of the
latter, a small square or round bit of the same paper, is pasted on
the inside and to the lars^e sheets over those parts, it will give addi-
tional strength against rain and winds-
After the paper is thus pasted on, and perfectly dry^ then it must
be oiled over with linseed oil, either raw or boiled: the latter I think
is rather apt to harden the paper, and cause it to crack, therefore
would prefer the former. Having, however, the oil and a painter's
soft brush, lay it on lightly, and brush the outside of the paper all
over, equally in every part; which done, place the frame in some dry-
covered shed, there to remain till the whole is thoroughly dry, then
it may be used when wanted, and will answer extremely well for va-
rious purposes.

If the base-frames are well painted with the following composi-
tion, they will last a long time — To every six pounds of melted pitch,
add half a pint of linseed oil, and a pound of brick dust well pulveri-
zed, mix them all together and use them warm. This is the best
pigment for all timber exposed to the weather, for no moisture can
penetrate through it.

You may also, form lights of the above kind, for your common
hot-bed frames, when glass cannot be conveniently had, which will
answer a very good purpose.

These covers of oiled-paper, are used not only for early cauli-
flower and cabbage plants, but also for early sallading, cucumbers,
&c. and are excellent for covering cuttings of exotic and other
plants, and for various other purposes.

Cabbage Plants.

Continue to protect your autumn-sown cabbage plants, from the
severity of the weather, agreeably to the general precautionary di-
rections given in the month of October, which see. But be very par-
ticular that such as are in frames, and consequently under occasion-
al protection, which renders them still more tender than those pro-
tected under the shade of bows, Sec. and that have got frozen, either
in consequence of neglect in covering, or of the extreme severity
of the weather, are not to be exposed to the influence of the sun
whilst shining stroyighj^ until they are gradually thawed, and also
the earth in which they stand; but at intervals, when the rays are
not too powerful, you may admit them to the plants, in order to
accomplish this end the sooner; but it must be done with great pre-
caution. This observation is not only applicable to cabbage and
cauliflower plants, but to all other plants under similar circum-
stances.

The cabbage plants which were sown last month, should as soon
in this, as they have arrived to the height of three or four inches,
or their leaves to the size of a quarter-dollar, be transplanted into
a new hot-bed, at the distance of three or four inches, plant from
plant every way; in ordei' to promote their growth, give them
strength, and the better to prepare them for planting out in the open
ground, as soon as the season arrives for that purpose.

R

130 A'HE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [Feb.

Previous to transplanting either these or cauliflower plants, see
that the earth of the new bed is arrived at a proper degree of
warmth, so that the plants, when planted therein, may receive no
check, but strike out new roots and fibres immediately. Let them
be constantly kept in a moderate stale of growth, admitting plenty
of air to them at every favourable opportunity; for, if neglected in
this very essential point, liiey will grow weakly and slender, and
never turn out to good advantage: therefore, let air be given as
often as it can be done with safety, but cover them carefully every
night, and even in the day time, in extremely severe weather.

Sowing Cabbage Seed.

This is a good time to sow a full crop of cabbage seeds, such as
the early Smyrna, early York, early dwarf Battersea, early Sugar-
loaf, &c. these may be sown in a hot-bed, as directed for cauliflow-
ers, any time this month, but the earlier the better; especially, if
none were sown in January: these will come to perfection at at early,
and very acceptable time.

Towards the latter end of the month, you may sow these kinds on
a warm south border, to be covered with frames and glasses, or on
slight hot-beds made in warm situations, and covered with paper-
frames, or with boards and mats occasionally.

Oiled-paper covers will do extremely well for this purpose, and
may be used to much advantage where glass lights cannot be had.

Sow also some red pickling-cabbage, Flat-Dutch, Large Drum-
head Savoy, and other late cabbage seeds, to succeed your early sum-
mer crops; these will produce larger heads and earlier, than if sown
much later. Many people never think of sowing these late kinds at
this time, which is an egregious omission, and ought not to be co-
pied by any person who wishes to have a regular succession, and
in the greatest perfection, of this invaluable vegetable.

The method of sowing these seeds, in hot -beds, being so similar
to that of cauliflowers, that a repetition is unnecessary; therefore
refer you to pages 20 and 21. Always observe to give the plants
plenty of air, in order to harden and strengthen them, and to pre-
vent their spendling up in a weakly manner, more especially if you
do not intend to transplant them into another hotbed, before their
being finally planted in the open ground.

But notwithstanding all this precaution, you must not omit to keep
them constantly in a growing state, and duly protected from the in-
clemencies of the weather; and when the beds wherein they are grow-
ing, become cold and destitute of that warmth so necessary for the
above purpose, you must give them a slight lining of fresh horse-
dung, to renew the slow temperate heat so congenial and necessary
to these plants at this season.

Solving Celery.

Towards the end of this month if the weather permits, prepare
a small bed of light rich earth in a tvarm border, to sow some celery

Feb.] the KITCHEN-GARDEN. 131

seed therein, for an early crop; the best kinds to sow are the solid,
and red celery, both of which are excellent.

Break the earth very fine, and either sow the seed on the surface,
and rake it in lightly; or rake the surface smooth, sow the seed
thereon, and cover it with light earth, sifted over near a quarter of
an inch deep; or the ground being formed into a three or four feet
wide bed, and the surface raked, then with the back of the rake trim
the earth evenly off the surface about a quarter of an inch deep into
the alley; sow the seed on the bed, and with a spade cast the earth
over it evenly, and rake the surface smooth.

Though this seed may not come up for a length of time, there
will be no danger of its perishing in the ground, and it will be in a
state to receive the first advantage of the growing season: if a
frame and lights, or hand-glasses can be spared to put over it, they
will greatly forward its growth: when raised in this way, though it
will not be so early, it will not be so subject either to start to seed,
or to pipe, as if sown and forced in a hot-bed.

But those who wisli to have celery as early as possible, should
sow the seed on a slight hot-bed, and cover it with a frame and
lights, or with hand-glasses; or in default of these, cover on nights
and bad weather with mats, placed on hoops stuck arch-ways over
the beds to support them; being careful, in either method, when the
plants are come up, to admit the free air every mild day.

There should not be many of these early sown plants, planted out
for a continuing supply, only a few to come in before the general
crop, for they will soon pipe and run up to seed.

Sowing Radish Seed,

Towards the end of this month, if the weather is mild and the
ground open, you may dig a warm border to sow therein some early-
frame, short-top, and white turncp-rooted radish-seeds, to draw for
sallads in April and early in May. Dig another piece at the same
time for salmon-radish, which will succeed the former.

Let them generally be sown broad-cast on the surface, either in
a continued space, or in four or five feet wide beds, and rake them
in with an even hand; or in sowing large crops in one continued
space, if quite dry light ground, it is eligible, before raking in, to
tread down the seed lightly, then rake it in regularly.

You may sow among these crops of radishes, a sprinkling of
spinach and lettuce-seed; the spinach will come in after the radish,
and the lettuce after the spinach.

The radishes sown last month must be carefully protected by co-
vering the glasses at night, and in very severe weather, with mats,
&c. and they must have plenty of air occasionally, otherwise they
will not root well.

In order to have radishes tolerably early, or to succeed those sown
in January, let some of the early kinds above mentioned be now
sowed on a slight hot-bed, as directed in page 22, and treated as
there advised: or you may sow them on such beds, under cover of
oiled-paper frames, or of mats; but radishes are not apt to root well
under covering of mats, especially when necessity requires them to

132 THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [Feb.

be kept on for any considerable lenj^th of time, unless you are ex-
tremely careful to give them as much air and light at every op-
portunity as possible, consistent with their safety.

Spinach.

Sow some prickly-seeded spinach, it being the hardiest kind,
about the latter end of the month; let some dry warm ground be
prepared for this purpose, and sow the seed thereon thin and resru-
lar, either broad-cast and raked in, or in drills a foot asunder, or on
four feet wide beds; being careful that, in either case, the seed be
not covered more than from an inch, to half an inch deep, according
tot he lightness or stiffness of the ground.

The smooth-seeded round leaved kind, is the best to sow during
the remainder of the spring and early summer months; but, for
this early sowing, the prickly seeded being more hardy, is pre-
ferable.

ICP I am well aware, that in far the greater part of the eastern
states, the ground is generally, durmg the whole of this month, and
a consicierable part of March, so bound up with frost, as not to be
dug or cultivated; but this not being ihe case in the middle states,
except in very seveie seasons, and not all in the southern states, I
am induced to give these directions for the sowing "f early crops,
and where the state of the weather permits, they may be practised
to advantage, and where not, the business must be deferred a little
longer.

Sowing Lettuce Seed.

If the weather be mild, and the ground in good condition, you
may, about the latter end of this month; sow some lettuce ?ecd on
a south border, which ought to be well defended by a wall, hedge, or
board fence, Sec. The kinds most suitable to be sown at this time,
are the early curled, and common cabbage lettuces, if intended to be
cut up for small sallading; in which case, they are to be sown very
thick on the surface, after the ground having been raked tolerably
well, and then raked in; or they may be sown in beds, or drills ac-
cording to fancy; observing, that these seeds require but a very
slight covering

You may also sow any other kinds of lettuce, such as the white, or
green cos, Egyptian and spotted cos, which are excellent kinds; or
if for cabbaging or heading, you may sow the white Silicia, grand
admiral, large mogul, brown Dutch, or New-Zealand lettuces, all of
which form good hard heads; for this purpose, they must be sown
very thin, and when arrived at a due size, be transplanted in rows
into the different borders, Sec. as directed in March; leaving a suf-
ficient quantity to occupy tlie seed-bed, which will head earlier than
th(',e that shall have been transplanted

If these be covered in nights and in very unfavourable weather,
either with mats or Ijoards, &c. it will greatly forward their growth.

But in order to have a few in a more advanced state for trans-
planting, and also for early small sallading; you may sow any of the

Feb.] the KITCHEN-GARDEN. 133

above kinds in a hot-bed, those for the latter purpose very thick, and
for the former pretty thin; the cos lettuces, not growing flat or in
a spreading manner, are peculiarly adapted for sowing in hot-beds
at this season, but either of the kinds, may be sown, and with due
care and proper thinning, be brought to good and early perfection.
Lettuces which have stood the winter, closely planted, in frames,
should, about the end of this month, be thinned to about nine
inches, or if expected to grow very large, a foot asunder; the
plants which are drawn out, may be planted into other frames, or
into warm borders, where they can be well protected with mats, or
some suitable covering, till they are inured by degrees to bear the
open air; but if the weather is unfavourable, and that you have not
a sufficiency of frames to receive the plants, it will be better to de-
fer this work till next month, being particular to pick off all decay-
ed leaves, and to stir the earth a little about the roots.

Sowing Carrot Seed.

When carrots are desired at an early season, some seed may be
sowed in a slight hot-bed in the beginning or middle of this month;
make this bed two and a half feet high, put on the frame, and cover
the bed with light dry earth six or eight inches deep; sow the
seed thinly on the surface, and cover it about a quarter of an inch,
with the same kmd of earth; when the plants are up, give them
plenty of air, and thin them as they advance in growth; keep the
glasses well covered at night, and in extremely severe weathet, and
in April you may expect handsome roots.

This seed if sown as above, towards the later end of the month,
•will succeed very well, without the assistance of glass, if the bed
is carefully covered at nights, and occasionally, as the weather n»ay
happen to be severe, in the day time, with garden mats, 8cc. you
may also, about the end of the month, sow a small quantity of car-
rot seed, on a warm border of light, dry rich earth, and, if the
season proves favourable they will succeed tolerably well, and be fit
for use at a very acceptable period: for the method of doing which,
see March.

Parsneps and Beets.

Parsneps being very hardy plants, and the seeds remaining in the
ground a long time before they vegetate, may be sown as early in
this month as the ground can be got in proper condition to recieve
the seed, which ought always to be a principal consideraiion; for
nothing can be worse than to work ground whilst too wet. 1 would
not, however, advise to sow more at this time, than what may an»
swer for a first early crop.

Sow a small quantity of beet-seed on a warm border, in drills, for
a first crop; but this ought not to be done till about the end oi ihe
month.

Observe, that seeds which are sown in the open ground at this
time, cannot have much advantage, as to earliness, over those which

134 IHK KITCHEN-GARDEN. [Feb.

may be sown two weeks later; therefore would advise, never to sow
seeds till the ground is in a good dry state, and proper condition to
receive them.

Sowing Peas.

Towards the latter end of this month, prepare a dry and well si-
tuated piece of ground for an early crop of peas, the early-frame,
early Charleton, and Golden hot-spurs, are the kinds most suitable
for this crop, but more particularly the first, though the others are
excellent, and will immediately succeed the early-frame.

Sow each sort separate, and pretty thick, in rows or drills three
feet asunder, covering them not more than about an inch and a half;
or if the ground be very loose and light, too inches deep; but if it
is of a stiff nature, one inch will be sufficient.

But, in order to give the first early crops a greater advantage,
prepare a south border of dry light earth for their reception, and
raise the earth into narrow sloping ridges, about a foot broad at the
base, and nine inches high and at the distance of three feet from
each other; ranging these in a south west direction, from the north
side of the border; then on the easterly sides of these ridges,
about half their height, sow your drills of peas, giving ihem the
same depth of covering, as above directed. In this situation, they
will have all the advantage of the morning and mid-day sun, lie dry,
and will consequently advance in vegetation, much more rapidly,
than if sown in the ordinary way.

Raising Peas in Hot-beds, Sfc.

Where a few peas are particularly required, in the most early
season, they may be obtained by sowing some of the early dwarf
kinds in a hot-bed, to remain, or rather to be transplanted from ihat
into another; either of which methods, should be performed early
in this month, if neglected in last. These may be sown in a
large hot-bed, in rows from the back to the front of the bed, to re-
main: or it would be rather more eligible, to sow them thick on a
small hot bed, to be transplanted into a larger, when about an incii
or two high; and if you have any in an advanced state, you may now
transplant them as above, to remain for bearing. But if you have
the convenience of a Hot-house, or Forcing-house of any kind, you
may easily and expeditiously raise them therein, by either sowing the
seeds, or planting the plants, if in a state of forwardness, in large
pots, and depositing these in convenient places in those houses.

N. B. A large quantity of the fallen leaves of trees, laid round all
your hot-beds, as high as the upper parts of the frames, especially
those which contain tender plants, will afford them a very necessary
protection, by preventing the frost from penetrating througli the
sides and ends of the frames, and at the same time they will produce
a lasting and comforting heat in the beds.

Planting Beans.

By beans, I mean the Vicia Faba of Linnseus, and not the P/ta-
seolus vulgaris) or Kidney-beans.

Feb.] the KITCHEN-GARDEN. 135

A full crop of those should be planted as early in this, or the next
monlh, as it is possible to get them into the ground; for it is from
the early sown crops of these, that any tolerable produce may be
expected in the United States, especially in the middle and southern
parts.

For this purpose, as soon as the weather will permit, dig an
open quarter of good ground, observing that a strong heavy soil is
the most suitable, but see that it is not too wet when you work it;
in which plant a full crop of the early Mazagan, early Lisbon, long-
podded, white-blossom, large windsor, toker, sandwich, and other
kinds: by planting these different varieties at one time, they will
come into bearing in a regular succession, according to their differ-
ent degrees of earliness. You need not be under any apprehension
of their being injured by the weather, as they are of a hardy nature,
and will not suffer by any frost which may overtake them, except
in very extraordinary cases.

Plant the small early kinds, in drills, three feet asunder, and the
beans two or three inches distant in the rows, or they may be planted
two rows in each drill, four inches distant each way, and covered
two inches deep.

The large kinds, such as the windsor, toker, sandwich and
broad Spanish, should be planted at the distance of iour feet, row
from row, and somewhat thinner than the small kinds. These
may also be planted occasionally by dibble, but drilling is the more
expeditious and better way.

You may continue planting these kinds once a week till the end
of March, but those planted after that season will not be so pro-
ductive.

These kinds may be forced in like manner as peas, if desired;
for their further treatment, see following months.

Sowing Parsley Seed.

Sow some of the common, and curled parsley seeds, in drills,
on some warm border, to produce an early supply; the seed will
remain a long time in the ground before it comes up, but there is no
danger of its perishing.

Mushrooms.

The same care that was directed last month in page 22 must be
continued with due attention, to your mushroom beds; being par-
ticular to preserve them effectually from frost and wet, either of
which would destroy the spawn, and render your beds unpro-
ductive.

Jlrtichokes.

If the weather is extremely severe, and that you have not attend-
ed to it before, lay some dry long litter over the rows of your choice
globe artichokes, which will tend greatly to their preservation.

136 THE FRUIT-GARDEN. [Feb.

SOUTHERN STATES.

In Georgia, South Carolina, and other parts of the more south-
ern states, this will be a very principal month with the inhabitants,
for making their Kitchen-gardens; for ihe method of doing which I
can only refer them to the Kitchen-garden lor March and AfiriL the
work recommended to be done in these months being quite applica-
ble with them at this season.

In the more northerly of the southern states, much work can be
done in the Kitchen garden this month; but the next will be their
important period, to which 1 refer them.

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

Pruning Wall and Espalier Trees.

PEACHES, nectarines^ and afiricots, should, in the middle
states, be pruned about the latter end of this month; the begin-
ning of next will be a good time in the eastern states This must
be duly attended to before the buds are much swelled; for then,
many of them would be unavoidably rubbed off in performing the
work.

Examine these trees well, and cut away all such parts as are use-
less, both in old and young wood; and leave a proper supply of the
l^st year's shoots for next summer's bearing; all old wood that has
advanced a considerable length, and produced no young shoots
proper for bearing this year, nor support branches that do, are use-
less, and should now be cut out, to muke room for better; observing
that a general successional supply of young bearing wood, of the
best well-placed shoots of last summer, must now be retained in all
parts of the tree at moderate distances, to bear the fruit to be ex-
pected the ensuing season, at the same tinje cut away all the ill-
placed and superfluous shoots, and very luxuriant growths, together
with part of the former year's bearers, 8cc. to make room for the
successional bearing shoots, as observed in January.

As you proceed, let the supply of reserved shoots, be shortened,
each according to its strength. Shoots of a vigorous growth should
be shortened but a little; that is, you may cut off about one fourth
of the original length: those of a moderate growth should be
shortened more in proportion, by cutting off about one third; for
instance, a shoot of eighteen inches should be shortened to twelve,
or thereabouts; and observe the same proportion according to the
different length of the shoots.

But for the more particular method of pruning these trees, see
the work of the fruit-garden in January, page 29.

Pruning of Apples and Pears, Sfc.

Prune apples, pears, plums and cherries, against walls or espa-
liers; and, if possible, let the whole of them be finished this month.

Feb.] the FRUIT-GARDEN. 137

In pruning these trees, observe, as directed last month, that as
the same branches or bearers remain many years in a proper fruit-
ful state, continue them trained close and straight to the wall, or
espalier, not shortening their ends, but still continue training each
at full length as far as the limited space admits, and laying them in
about four, five, or six inches asunder.

In the next place, observe, that if the branches be any where
much crowded; that is, if the bearing or principal branches are
closer than four, five, or six inches from one another, some should
be pruned out: observing, in this case, to take off such as are
worst situated, and particularly such as appear to be the most un-
likely to bear, by being either worn out, or, at least, not well fur-
nished with fruit-spurs, as mentioned last month. Likewise ob-
serve, that when necessary to make room in any particular part of
the tree, to train more regularly any eligible branches which are
evidently well adapted for bearing; room must be made for them,
by cutting out suc'i barren branches as above described; and in any
trees where the general branches are trained considerably too close,
and crowding in a confused irregularity, let some of the most un-
serviceable and irregular-growths be cut out in a thinning order, in
different parts of such trees; to make room for training the other
more useful and eligible branches, in a proper expansion at regular
distances.

When any old or large branches are to be taken out, let them be
cut off close to the places from whence they arise, or to any eligible
lateral branches which they support, and that you shall think conve-
nient to leave; in cutting off either old or young branches, never
leave any stumps.

After cutting out any large branches, let such as remain near that
part be unnailed, or unbound, in order to be brought higher or low-
er, as you shall see necessary, to train them all at equal distances:
or when there are several large branches to be taken out in different
parts, the whole tree should be unnailed or unbound; then you can
more readily train the general branches and bearers in exact order.

Next, let it be observed, that where a supply of wood is wanted,
leave some of the best situated of last summer's shoots, such as di-
rected to be retained in the summer pruning, to fill up the vacan-
cies; and generally leave a leading one at the end of each branch,
where you have room to train them. But all others of the last year's
shoots, not wanted for the above purpose, should every one be cut
off close to the places from whence they proceed, leaving no spurs
but what are naturally produced. The proper fruit spurs are such
as were described last month, being produced on the sides and ends
of the branches, short, robust, and from about half an inch to an inch
or two in length.

Let these fruit-spurs be^well attended to in pruning, carefully
preserving all those of a fresh, plump, robust growth; but those of
a worn-out or rugged unsightly appearance, or that project consi-
derably long and irregular from the front of the branches in a fore-
right direction, should generally be displaced, in order to preserve

S

138 THE FRUIT-GARDEN. [Feb.

the regularity of the trees, taking care to cut them off close, by
which new ones will be encouraged in places contiguous.

Having, in the course of pruning these trees, left most of the
general shoots and branches at their natural length, as before ad-
vised, in all places where there is full scope to extend them; let
them be all trained in regularly in that order, and nailed straight and
close to the wall, or nailed or tied to the espalier, about four, five, or
six inches distant. — For the management of young trees of these
sorts, see the work of the Fruit Garden in March, and for the me-
thods of pruning and treating your standard fruit-trees in this de-
partment, see the article Orchard in January, pages 45, 46 and 47,
and also the same head, both in this month and March.

Fig Trees.

Except in the southern states, it will not be advlseable to attempt
pruning your fig-trees, till towards the end of next month, or be-
ginning of April; to which I shall refer you for particular remarks
and directions.

Prune and plant Gooseberry and Currant Trees.

Gooseberries and currants should be pruned now, if omitted in the
former months, both in the standard bushes and those against walls,
fences, &c.

In pruning the common standards, observe to cut away all
cross-growing branches, and regulate such as advance in a strag-
gling manner from the rest. Or where the branches in general
stand so close as to interfere, let them be thinned properly, so that
every branch may stand clear of the other, at a regular moderate dis-
tance: and prune out the superabundant lateral and other unne-
cessary shoots of last summer. — See the Fruit Garden of last month
page 32, and also October.

Let these shrubs be always trained with a single stem, clear of
branches, six or eight inches to a foot from the ground, as directed
in the former month.

Likewise to currants, Sec. against walls, give a necessary pruning
and regulation, as directed in January, Sec.

Gooseberry and currant trees may be planted towards the end of
this month, if the weather permits, both in standards for the gene-
ral plantation, at six to seven or eight feet distance, and some
against walls, board fences, Sec. for earlier fruit, but principally cur-
rants; and let these, for the most part, be of the best red and white
sorts.

You may occasionally plant a few of the best kinds of gooseber-
ries to north walls, which is the most suitable situation for them,
in our climates; next to that, east or west walls; but plant only very
few to those fronting the south, as in such a situation the sun would
in summer, be much too powerful for these shrubs.

For the method of propagating and i-aising them, see the work
of the JVursery in March-, and October.

Feb.] the FRUIT-GARDEN. 139

Raspberries.

Raspberries may be pruned towards the latter end of this month,
especially if the weather be tolerably mild; in doing of which, observe
to clear away all the old decayed stems which bore fruit last sea-
son, and to leave three, four, or five of the strongest of last year's
shoots standing on each root, to bear next summer: all above
that number, on every root, must be cut off close to the surface of
the ground, and all straggling shoots between the main plants must
also be taken away.

Each of the shoots which are left should be shortened, observing
to cut off about one third or fourth of their original length.

The shoots of each root, when pruned, if considerably long and
straggling, may be tied two or three together; for by that method
they support one another, so as not to be borne down in summer by
the weight of heavy rains, or violent winds.

When you have finished pruning, or as soon after as possible,
dig the ground between the plants, observing, as you dig, to clear
away all straggling growths in the intervals, leaving none but such
as belongs to the shoots which are left to bear.

New plantations of raspberries may be made about the latter end
of this month, where the severe winter frosts are over, and the
ground in proper condition; but where this is not the case, that
•work must be deferred till next month, or until the soil is in a fit
state for cultivation. — For the method of making these plantations,
see the Fruit-garden in March and October.

The Antwerp raspberries, which had on the approach of winter
been laid down and covered with litter, &c. on account of their be-
ing somewhat more tender than the common kinds, ought not to be
disturbed, till the opening of good weather in March, unless their
buds begin to swell too freely.

Strawberries.

Continue to force early strawberries, as directed last month, in
pages 34 and 106, which see.

Having two or three years old bearing plants in pots, as then di-
rected, plunge them into the hot-beds, and manage them as there
advised.

Be careful to admit plenty of air to the plants, at every favourable
opportunity, by setting up the glasses behind every mild day, and at
intervals give gentle waterings to the earth in the pots round the
plants, not pouring it over them, especially while they are in flower.

When you find the heat of the beds to be on the decline, renew
it by adding a lining of fresh horse-dung to the sides or eads, or to
both, as necessity may require; and be very particular in covering
the glasses every night with mats, or other covering.

This is also a very successful time to place pots of strawberry
plants in the hot-house, or in any forcing-house; they will in these
places bear well, and in early perfection.

140 THE FRUIT-GARDEN. [Feb-

Forcing early Fruit in Forcing -houses.

The beginning of this month, if not done before, you may pro-
ceed to forcing fruit-tress in hot-walls, peach-houses, cherry-houses,
&c. by aid of fire or other artificial heat; the proper sorts are
peaches, nectarines, apricots, cherries, figs, vines, plums, &c. hav-
ing young trees for this purpose that are arrived to a bearing state,
and planted a year or two before in the borders, &c. of the forcing
departments; or you may have some also in large pots or tubs, to
remove therein at forcing time occasionally. The trees may be
both as wall-trees and espaliers, training the branches to a trellis
erected for that purpose, and some may be in dwarf standards; you
may also have some cherries, both in small-headed standards,
half standards and dwarfs; and vines trained up under the sloping
glasses. — See Hot-house, December,

Let moderate fires be made every afternoon and evening; and if
there is a pit within the forcing-house, in which to have a bark or
dung hot-bed, you may make the bed a week or ten days before
you begin the fires; and if a bark bed is intended, fill the pit with
new tanner's bark; or if a dung hot-bed, make it with fresh hot
horse-dung; and when it has settled down six or eight inches, lay
that depth of tanner's bark at top. These beds will support a con-
sant moderate warmth in which you may plant pots of dwarf cher-
ries and of scarlet and Alpine strawberries; which will have fruit
very early, and in great perfection. Continue making fires every
evening, and support them till ten or eleven o'clock, to warm the air
of the house till morning, when the fire may be renewed moderately,
but not constantly the whole day, except in very severe weather,
especially if there is the assistance of a bark hot-bed; unless it is
required to forward the trees as much as possible. However, where
there is no internal hot-bed, you must continue a constant, regular
moderate, fire heat.

With this management the trees will soon begin to advace in
blossom-buds, &c. when you must be careful to continue a regular
moderate heat in the house.

Admit fresh air to the trees every mild day when sunny, espe-
cially after they begin to bud and shoot, either by sliding down
some of the upper sloping glasses two or three inches, or drawing
some of the uprights in front a little way open, shutting all close
towards the afternoon, or as soon as the weather changes cold;
giving air more fully as the warm season increases, and as the trees
advance in blossom and shooting.

Give also occasional waterings both to the borders and over the
branches of the trees before they blossom; but when in flower and
until the fruit is all fairly well set, desist from watering over the
branches, lest it destroy the fecundating fiollen of the anthera destin-
ed for the impregnation of the fruit.

The fires may be continued till towards May, being careful never
to make them stronger than to raise the internal heat to about 60°
of Fahrenheit's thermometer, in peach and cherry-houses, and 70°
in vine-houses; for in vineries, having only principally vines in

Feb.] the ORCHARD. 141

forcing, the heat is generally continued stronger, as they bear it
in a higher degree, whereby to forward the fruit to the earliest per-
fection.

According as the fruit advances to full growth, continue assisting
them by waterings; and give them free air every warm sunny dayj
and when advancing towards I'ipening, encourage a strong heat in the
middle of the day, by admitting less or more air, in proportion to
the power of the sun, to forward their maturity, and promote a rich
flavour.

Thus the fruits will ripen earlier by two months, or more, in.
some, than their natural time of perfection in the open ground and
full air.

In the above forcing departments you may also place pots of cur-
rants, gooseberries, raspberries, and strawberries, &c.

THE ORCHARD.

THE feelings of a lover of improvement can scarcely be expressed,
on observing the almost universal inattention paid to the greater num-
ber of our Orchards, and that people who go to a considerable ex-
pence in planting and establishing them, afterwards leave them to
the rude hand of nature; as if the art and ingenuity of man availed
nothing, or that they merited no further care: however, it is to be
hoped, that the good example, and the consequent success, of the
careful and industrious, will stimulate others to pay the necessary
attention to these departments, and thereby to serve themselves as
well as the community at large.

At this season, you can conveniently perform the very necessary
and important works of pruning, of scraping and rubbing off moss
and other parasitic plants, and of manuring the ground where want-
ed; and as much depends on these dressings, they should by no
means be neglected, more especially, as this is a very eligible time
for performing them, and one, with which other business does not
frequently interfere.

For the method of pruning these trees and other necessary ob-
servations, I refer you to the article Orchard last month, page 45, &c.

Where trees are much overrun with moss, it may be remov-
ed as directed in page 46; or a strong man, with a good birch broom
in a wet day, would do great execution. The best method of des-
troying moss on young trees, is to rub all the branches affected, in
spring or autumn, or in both if necessary, with a hard scrubbing-
brush and soap-suds. This will not only remove the moss, but tend
considerably to prevent its sudden return.

i42 THE ORCHARD. [Feb.

Canker, in a ^reat measure, arises from animalcules, or small
or very minute insects or worms, he. of various kinds; where this
is the case, cut out the whole of the cankered part, clean to the
sound wood, wash the part well with the following solution, and
also all other parts that seem to be in the least affected; then give
it a light coat of the medicated tar, prescribed in page 47.

Dissolve a drachm of corrosive sublimate in a gill of gin or other
spirit, and when thus dissolved incorporate it with four quarts oi
soft water. This solution will be found to be the most effectual
remedy ever applied to trees, both for the destruction of worms of
every species, and of the eggs of insects deposited in the bark.
No danger to the trees is to be apprehended from its poisonous
quality, which, in respect to them, is perfectly innocent.

Peach trees, which are annoyed by worms, should, towards the
end of this month, particularly near, and a little under the surface
of the ground, be carefully examined, and where any are found, they
must be picked out with the point of a knife, and with as little in-
jury to the bark as possible; for, by lacerating the rind or bark in
a careless manner, which is too frequently the case on these occa-
sions, this vehicle, which nature has provided for carrying up the
nourishment extracted by the roots, being destroyed, the trees must
of course perish, or be weakened in proportion as it is injured.

This being done, wash all the trunks or stems of the trees, as well
as any other parts in which you suspect these vermin or their em-
bryo eggs to be lodged, with the above solution, and also the wound-
ed parts; after which, apply with a brush a slight dressing of the
medicated tar to each and every of the wounds inflicted by picking
out the worms. This will preserve your trees in health and fruit-
fulness much longer than if left to the mercy of these destructive
intruders.

As to manure, it is well known that where hogs and poultry are
constantly running over the ground, the trees seldom fail of a crop,
which is the best proof that manure is necessary. Any manure will
suit an Orchard; but the sweepings of cow-houses, hog-pens,
slaughter-houses, poultry and pidticon-houses, emptying of drains,
&c. are more disposed to facilitate the growth and promote the
health of fruit-trees, than stable manure. However, any kind of
manure is better than none at all.

On Root-pruning.

When a tree has stood so long, that the leading roots have en-
tered into the under strata, they are apt to draw a crude fluid, which
the organs of the more delicate fruit-trees cannot convert into
such balsamac juices as to produce fine fruit. To prevent this evil,
as soon as a valuable tree begins to show a sickly pinkiness upon
the leaves, or the fruit inclining to ripeness, before it has acquired
its full growth, at the same time the bark becoming dry, hard, and
disposed to crack; let the ground, as soon in the spring as the frost
is out of it, be opened for three or four feet round the tree, and with a
chissel cut close to the horizontal roots every one that you find in

Feb.] the ORCHARD. I43

the least tending downward. Should there be any mouldy appear-
ance or rottenness amongj the roots, cut such out effectually, and
wash the others clean with a weak lye or soap suds. If the ground
be wet place a few flat stones under the places where you cut off the
decending roots, to prevent the young roots which may be produced
again from about the cuts taking a perpendicular direction, and to
give them a lateral inclination.

As the roots invariably collect the sap from the extreme points,
this cutting compels the horizontal ones to work and exert them-
selves, and if there be any energy left, they will soon throw out
fresh fibres, and thus collect a more congenial sap for the support
of the tree and fruit. At the same time, in the filling in of the
earth, add a quantity of good rotten manure, and cover the ground
thinly over with the same, as far as the roots may be supposed to
extend; wash the stem and branches with soap-suds, or if any
worms are perceivable, with the mercurial or corrosive solution,
and water the ground round the tree at intervals in very dry wea-
ther, till you perceive it pushing vigorously.

There is not a more powerful agent for producing the canker and
other disorders, than these decending roots. Canker indeed may-
arise from an improper soil, a vitiated sap, animalcules, and the
want of free circulation of the fluids: the last is often caused by in-
judiciously shortening too many of the leading branches. The me-
dication before recommended, will stop the progress of the evil on
the parts to which it is applied; but the canker may again break out
on the other parts of the same tree, and that arises very frequently
from the roots striking into a cold and unfriendly soil.

The fluids being once vitiated by any subterraneous cause, canker
is not the only evil; insects are invited thereby to deposit their eggs
in the bark, which in due time become crawling maggots; these
feed on the sap of the trees, devouring the inner bark and rind as
they proceed, until the period of their chrysalis; which having un-
dergone, they take wing and fly off, and in their progress seldom
fail to lay the foundation of similar mischief.

From this may be inferred the necessity of making a judicious
choice of proper ground for your fruit trees, and paying due atten-
tion to their cultivation and health; for it is quite as presumable, if
not more so, that the vitiated juices of the trees invite the worms,
than that they are the original cause which produces it.

When any of your fruit trees are growing extremely luxuriant,
and continue to produce no fruit, though having arrived at a pro-
per age for that purpose; they may be forced into a bearing state,
by opening the ground around them, and cutiing through a few of
their largest roots, but especially the descending ones; the depriva-
tion which will arise from this, of their extraordinary resources,
which was the cause of their running into such a luxuriancy of
wood, will soon bring them into a bearing state; but be careful
that you smooth with a chissel or other sharp instrument, the
roots at the amputations, and not have them in a mangled state,
which might bring on diseases that probably would destroy the
trees.

444 '^HE ORCHARD. [Feb.

The following extracts, taken from a communication made by that
ingenious citizen, Doctor James Tilton, of Wilmington, Dela-
ware, and published in the first American edition of the Domestic
Encyclopaedia, by Messrs. Birch and Small, Philadelphia, are wor-
thy of attention; and the laudable efforts of that gentleman, both in
agricultural and horticultural pursuits, are highly meritorious and
deserving of emulation.

" Curculio, a genus of insects belonging to the Coleofitera or Bee-
tle order. The species are said to be very numerous. The im-
mense damage done, by an insect of this tribe, to the fruits of this
country, of which there is no similar account in Europe, has given
rise to a conjecture with some naturalists, that we have a peculiar
and very destructive species in America.

" The manner in which this insect injures and destroys our fruits,
is, by its mode of propagation. — Early in the spring, about the time
when the fruit trees are in blossom, the Curculiones ascend in swarms
from the earth, crawl up the trees, and as the several fruits advance,
they puncture the rind or skin, with their pointed rostra, and deposit
their embryos in the wounds thus inflicted. The maggot thus bedded
in the fruit, preys upon its pulp and juices, until in most instances,
the fruit perishes, falls to the ground and the insect escaping from so
unsafe a residence, makes a sure retreat into the earth: where, like
other beetles, it remains in the form of a grub or worm, during the
winter, ready to be metamorphosed into a bug or beetle, as the
spring advances. Thus every tree furnishes its own enemy; for al-
though these bugs have manifestly the capacity of flying, they appear
very reluctant in the use of their wings; and perhaps never employ
them but when necessity compels them to migrate. It is a fact, that
two trees of the same kind may stand in the nearest possible neigh-
bourhood, not to touch each other, that one shall have its fruit destroy-
ed by the Curculio, and the other be uninjured, merely from con-
tingent circumstances, which prevent the insects from crawling up
the one, while they are uninterrupted from climbing the other.

"The Curculio delights most in the smooth skinned stone fruits,
such as nectarines, plumbs, apricots, &c. when they abound on a
farm: they nevertheless attack the rough skinned peach, the apple,
pear, and quince. The instinctive sagacity of these creatures di-
rects them especially to the fruits most adapted to their purpose.
The stone fruits more certainly perish by the wounds made by these
insects, so as to fall in due time to the ground, and afford an oppor-
tunity to the young maggot to hide itself in the earth. Although
multitudes of these fruits fall, yet many recover from the wounds,
which heal up with deeply indented scars. This probably discon-
certs the curculio, in its intended course to the earth. Be this as
it may, certain it is, that pears are less liable to fall, and are less in-
jured by this insect than apples. Nectarines, plumbs, 8cc. in most
districts of our country, where the curculio has gained an establish-
ment, are utterly destroyed, unless special means are employed for
their preservation. — Cherries escape better on account of their
rapid progress to maturity and their abundant ci*ops: the curculio
can only puncture a small part of them, during the short time they

Feb.] the ORCHARD. 145

hang upon the tree. These destructire insects continue their
depredations from the first of May until autumn. Our fruits col-
lectively estimated must thereby be depreciated more than half
their value.

*' It is supposed the curculio is not only injurious above ground,
but also in its retreat, below the surface of the earth, by preying on
the roots of our fruit trees. We know that beetles have, in some
instances, abounded in such a manner as to endanger whole forests.
Our fruit trees often die, from manifest injuries done to the roots, by
insects, and by no insects more probably than the curculio. In dis-
tricts where this insect abounds, cherry trees and apple trees, which
disconcert it most above, appear to be the special objects of its ven-
geance below the surface of the earth.

" These are serious evils to combat which, every scientific en-
quirer is loudly called upon to exert his talents; every industrious
farmer to double his diligence; and all benevolent characters to con-
tribute their mite.

" Naturalists have been accustomed to destroy vicious insects, by
employing their natural enemies to devour them.

" We are unacquainted with any tribe of insects able to destroy
the curculio. All the domestic animals, however, if well directed,
contribute to this purpose. Hogs, in a special manner are qu ilified
for the work of extermination. This voracious animal, if suffered
to go at large in orchards, and among fruit trees, devours all the
fruit that falls, and among others the curculiones, in the maggot
.state, which may be contained in them. Being thus generally des-
troyed in the embryo stale, there will be fevv or no bugs to ascend
from the earth in the spring, to injure the fruit. Many experien-
ced farmers have noted the advantage of hogs running in their
orchards. Mr. Bordley, in his excellent ' Essays on Husbandry^'
takes particular notice of the great advantage of hogs to orchards:
and although he attributes the benefits derived from the animals
to the excellence of their manure, and their occasional rooting about
the trees, his mistake in this trivial circumstance does by no means
invalidate the general remarks of this acute observer. The fact is
hogs render fruits of all kinds fair and unblemished, by destroying
the curculio.

" The ordinary fowls of a farm yard are great devourers of beetles.
Poultry in general are regarded as carnivorous in summer, and
therefore cooped sometimes before they are eaten. Every body
knows with what avidity ducks seize on the tumble bug ( Scarabaus
carnifox)., and it is probable the curculio is regarded by all the fowls
as an equally delicious morsel. Therefore it is, that the smooth
stone fruits, particularly, succeed much better in lanes and yards,
where the poultry run without restraint, than in gardens and other
enclosures, where the fowls are excluded.

" All the terebinthinate substances, with camphor and some
others, are said to be very offensive to insects generally. Upon this
principle, General T. Robinson, of Naaman's creek, suspends an-
nually little bits of board, about the size of a case knife, dipped in
tar, on each of his plum trees.— -From three to five of ;.hese strips

T

446 '^'HE VINEYARD. [Feb,

are deemed enough, according to the size of the tree. The General
commences his operations about the !ime or soon after the trees
are in full bloom, and renews the application of the tar frequently,
while the fruit hangs on the tree. To this expedient, he attributes his
never failing success. Other gentlemen allege, that common tur-
pentine would be still better; being equally pungent and more per-
manent in its effects. Some have sown offensive articles, such as
buckwheat, celery, 8cc. at the root of the tree, and have thought thai
great advantages followed

" Ablaqueation^ or digging round the trees, and making bare their
roots i.i winter, is an old expedient of gardeners for killing insects,
and m-iy answer well enough for a solitary tree, a year or two; but the
curculio will soon recover from a disturbance of this sort, and stock
the tree again.

" In large orchards, care should be taken that the stock of hogs is
sufficient to eat up all the early fruit which fall, from May until
August. This precaution will be more especially necessary in large
peach orchards; for, otherwise, when the hogs become cloyed with
the pulp of the peach, they will let it fall out of their mouths, and
content themselves with the kernel, which they like better; and
thus the curculio escaping from their jaws, may hide under ground,
until next Spring.

" A young orchard should not be planted in the place of, or adja-
cent to an old one, that it may not be immediately infested with the
curculio.

" It is also apparent from what has been said, that great advan-
tages might result from an association or combination of whole
neighbourhoods against this common enemy. Although an intelli-
gent farmer may accomplish much, by due attention, within his own
territory, the total extermination of the curculio can hardly be ex-
pected but by the concurrent efforts of the whole districts."

For further particulars respecting fruit-trees, see the article Or-
rhard in March.

THE VINEYARD.

To the preparatory and other necessary work, recommended in
January to be done in the Vineyard, page 48, I again call your par-
ticular attention; if it is put off till March you will then find the
consequent embarrassment of such neglect; therefore let every pre-
paration be made in this, as well as the last month, that the season
will admit of.

The beginning of this month will be a good time to cart manure
into the Vineyard; laying it down in the most elevated places possible,
for the ease of wheeling it on barrows down among the rows of
vines; this ought to be perfectly rotted, and of a quality suited to
the nature of the soil; well rotted cow dung is the best manure for

Feb.] the vineyard. £47

ground of a very hot nature, but, if very cold or stiff, which ought
to be as much avoi ied as possible in the planting of a Vineyard, it
may be improved by wrell rotted horse dunp: or street dirt; when
these cannot be had, any kind of well incorporated rich compost
or other manure may be used.

If the Vineyard be on the declivity of a hill, and that your vines
are not more than one, two, or three years old, scatter a good
shovel-full or two of this manure, principally, on the upper side of
each plant, observing that none of it reaches within six inches of
the stem; for if placed close thereto, slugs, worms, and the em-
bryos of various insects, so frequently found in dung and other
manure, would take shelter about the stock, penetrate down along
its roots, and might materially injure it at a future period. But
when these are exposed without the advantage of this protection,
to the severe frosts of the season, the greater number oi them will
be destroyed thereby.

The manure so placed, its nutritive parts will be washed down by
rains, and the whole, by the necessary culture, will ultimately be
brought to the roots of the plants. When the Vineyard happens
to be on level ground, scatter the manure as above, equally around
the plants.

If your vines are four years old or more, let it be cast all over the
ground, as by this time the roots will be extended to a considerable
distance in every direction, and prepared to receive nourishment at
all points.

Pruning of Vines in the Vineyard.

In the middle states, the last week of this month will be an excel-
lent time to prune vines, unless it should happen to be extremely
severe; in which case, it will be belter to defer the pruning for a
few days longer, but on no account later than the first week in
March; which latter period, will be a good time to commence that
business in the eastern states, allowing there, the same latitude in
similar cases: but the more to the southward, the earlier ought
this to be done, for if deferred till the sap begins to ascend, serious
evils will ensue to the plants, in consequence of bleeding too co-
piously from the wounds. Let it be observed that the sap begins to
rise six weeks or better, before the buds expand into leaves.

Such plants as are but one year old from the cuttings, must be cut
down to one or two good buds each, according to their strength,
always cutting about an inch above the bud in a sloping manner,
and on the opposite side thereto, observing that the lowermost bud
next the old wood, is never reckoned among the good ones.

Such of these young plants as have made more than one shoot
last season, must be deprived of all, by cutting them off as close as
possible to the old wood, except the strongest and best placed;
which, prune as above directed, and cut off such part of the old wood
close to this shoot, as appears above it; in order that the bark may
grow over it, and the stem become whole and sound.

Your two years old plants, must be similarly treated, with this dif-
ference, that you may leave two good buds to each, in order to form
as many strong shoots for the next season.

^48 ^HE VINEYARD. [Feb.

The three years old plants must be headed down, to two good
buds, leaving not more than two shoots to each plant, which
•will produce four for the ensuing season; and these, if the plants be
in good health, will yield fruit very handsomely that year.

The fourth year of a plant, leave it three of the best shoots, head-
ing them down to two good buds each; and observe to cut off the
extra branches close to where they were produced, and in like man-
ner any decayed wood, as well as the spurs or stumps occasioned by
last year's pruning: by which treatment, all the parts will get co-
vered with bark, and the stock be continued in health and vigour.

According as your vines increase in age and strength, you may
leave from four to eight shoots on a plant, in proportion to its strength,
each headed down from two to four or five good buds, always leav-
ing the greatest number of buds on the most vigorous shoots.

When a vine is extremely vigorous, and well furnished, you may
head one or two of its best shoots, at the height of three or four
feet, which will bear an abundance of fruit; but the others must be
headed down to two or three buds each, in order that they may pro-
duce good wood for the ensuing years bearing, and not too many
fruit; for, those which you headed so high, must be effectually cut
out close to where they were produced in the next pruning.

Having finished your pruning, see that each plant has a good firm
stake, to support the young shoots when produced and advancing in
growth, and if ifcbe vigorous and of many shoots, a second, or even
a third, would be more eligible.

Some inconsiderate persons may think, that eight are too few for
a full grown vine; but if they consider that the eight shoots so
pruned, may produce on an average twenty-four, and each of these
bear three bunches of grapes, making in all sixty-two, they will
probably view the matter in a different point, especially, when they
consider that the ground occupied by this plant, is no more than
about six feet square. However fond people may be to see their
vines bear great quantities of fruit, the overbearing of them, espe-
cially while young, and indeed at any period, is allowed on all hands
to injure them materially.

You are particularly to observe, that the young shoots of last
summer's growth, are the only bearing wood; that is, they produce
new shoots which bear fruit the same season: therefore, if you
expect a regular supply of grafpes, you must manage your plants so
as to have an annual succession of new wood, which you cannot ex-
pect, if the vines are suffered to overbear.

The above being the method of managing vines in vineyards, the
heads being formed near the ground, which is the present practice
in most of the vine countries; I shall now proceed to give some di-
rections form the pruning of such as are trained against walls, trel-
lises or espaliers.

Pruning of Viyies against Walls, Trellises and Espaliers.

In order to have well formed espaliers and wall-vines, 8cc. you
must train the two first good shoots produced by the plant, horizon-

Feb.] the VINEYARD. I49

tally, one to each side, within a foot or a little better, of the ground,
and continue them in that direction from year to year, to whatever
extent you may think desirable.

The first year these must be deprived only, of the decayed wood
on the extremities, and of any secondary shoots proceeding from
the axillas of the leaves, unless they have run to the desired extent:
the second year they will produce shoots from the joints, which are
to be trained either upright, serpentine form, or fan-fashion, accord-
ing to fancy, at the distance of about eight inches from each other:
the third year, head each of these down to one good bud, and train
them up as before directed; the fourth, and every succeeding year,
make choice of the strongest shoots, say every third one, and head
them down to from ten to twenty buds each, more or less, according
to the strength of the mother plant, goodness of the ground, and
roundness of the wood, but never leave wood that is not round, for
such seldom bears fruit. The other shoots are to be headed down
to one or two good buds each, which are to produce young wood for
the next years bearing, as those left to bear this season must be cut
dov/n next, in order to produce a succession of young wood; and so
continue in their management from year to year.

When you meet with old vines, which have been neglected, and
having a great quantity of naked wood, as is generally the case, cut
them down near to the ground, and they will not fail to produce you
plenty of young wood, which you can train to your liking, but you
will have no fruit for that year. Or you may cut out every other
branch, leaving the old ones to produce fruit that season; but these
must be cut down the next year, in order to produce young wood,
and a well furnished tree.

When arbours are to be formed of grape-vines, the shade being
as much an object as the fruit, you are to train them so as to cover
the place handsomely, and at the same time to produce as much and
as good fruit as possible, by not permitting the leading branches, or
shoots, to crowd together, but to spread evenly and thin over the
whole place: this must be done by judicious pruning and careful
training, always bearing in mind the preceding general directions.

For the methods of propagating and planting grape-vines, and
the various kinds thereof, see the Vineyard in March.

SOUTHERN STATES.

This will be a principal time for propagating vines, by cuttings,
layers, &c. and planting vineyards in most of the southern states; for
the methods of doing which, see the Vineyard m March.

150 [Feb,

THE NURSERY.

d:/" The various instructions given in the course of this month,
for the Nurbcry, as far as they relate to work which is to be clone
in the open ground, are on the presumption that the severe winter
frosts, have, towards the end of the month, disappeared, and that
the ground at that time, is in a fit state for cultivation; at least suf-
ficiently so, for the reception of plants of a very hardy nature, and
such as, if planted, could receive no injury whatever, from any sub-
sequent frost or severity of weather, and that will succeed better by
taking the earliest possible advantage of the season: moreover, it
is the better way to have as much of your business done at as early
a period as possible, the better to enable you to meet the great
pressure, which, with respect to planting, sowing, grahing, Sec. &c.
must be attended to in March.

But when the weather in the latter end of this month is severe, or
the ground bound up by frost, there is no alternative, but to defer
the business till the arrival of a more favourable period.

Propagating by Cuttings, Sfc.

Plant cuttings of gooseberries and currants, according to the rules
laid down in next month and in October; these will form tolerable
kranchy heads by the end of summer, and will produce truii in a
year or two after.

Be careful to train these trees always with a single stem, six or
eight, to ten or twelve inches high, before you form the he<.cl.

Plant also cuttings of honeysuckles, and other Aa, c/;/ flowering
shrubs and trees; as many different sorts may be propagated by that
method.

The cuttings must be shoots of the former year's growth: choose
such as have strength, cutting them from the respective trees and
shrubs in prope^ lengths; or long shoots may be divided inio two
or more c\ittings^ which should not be shorter than eight inches, nor
much longer than twelve. Plant them in rows two feet asunder, at
six or eight inches distance in the row, putting each cutting two
thirds of its length into the earth.

Most kinds which are thus planted now, will be well rooted by
next October.

Propagating by Suckers.

Many kinds of trees and shrubby plants, furnish abundance of
suckers from the roots for propagation, particularly robinia's roses,
lilacs, syringas, and many other hardy kinds: the suckers may
now be separated from the parent plants, each with some roots, and
planted either in nursery rows for a year or two, or the largest, at
once, where they are to remain.

Feb.] the NURSERY. 151

Propagating by Layers.

The latter end of this month, you may make layers of all such
Sshrubs and trees as are increased by that method: though the best
time to do this, is between the first of October and end of November,
but where it was omitted at that period it may now be done, and
most kinds will still succeed.

In making layers of any kinds of trees or shrubs, observe to dig
round the plant that is to be layed, and, as you go on, bring down
the shoots or branches regularly, and lay them along in the earth,
with their tops above ground, fastening them securely there with
hooked pegs, and then let all the young shoots on each branch be
neatly layed, and cover them five or six inches deep with earth,
leaving the top of each, three or four, to five or six inches out of the
ground.

It may be of advantage, in laying some of the more hard-wooded
kinds, to gash or slit the layers an inch or better by an upward cut
on the under side, as intimated in the A''ursery, page 61.

Most kinds of layers, which are now layed, will be tolerably well
rooted, and fit to be transplanted by next autumn, some not till
the second year: but for general instructions, see the JVursenj in
October,

Transplanting Layers.

Take off the layers of such hardy shrubs and trees as were layed
down last year, and which still remain on the stoUs.

Let these layers, as soon as they are taken off", be trimmed and
planted in rows in an open situation, two feet or more asunder, ac-
cording to the size of the plants; and the plants about twelve or fifteen
inches distant in the rows.

Pruning, Sfc.

Should the weather permit, you ought, towards the latter end of
the month, to dig the ground between the rows of your nursery
trees and shrubs; first giving them such necessary pruning as may
be wanted; but if the ground is then bound up with frost, you may
perform the latter, and defer the former work, till the frost is away,
which then, must be done without delay, especially where the ground
is tolerably dry.

Trim up the stems of such young hardy fruit and forest trees, as
require it, especially the deciduous kinds, and also prune off all disor-
derly rambling shoots, so as to bring them into a neat and handsome
form.

Prune also the hardy flowering shrubs in Nursery- rows, whereby
to regulate any disorderly growths, and to give them a becoming
appearance.

in doing this work, it would generally be proper to prune or train
the young plants mostly to short single stems below; and where the
heads of any shrubs are very irregular, or run out in rambling-

j,52 THE NURSERY. [Feb.

shoots, let them be reduced to sortie order and forn), by cutting
out or shortening such as may require any regulation, whereby
to form a somewhat orderly shape in the general head. Likewise
suckers arising from the roots should generally be cleared off; and
if carefully detached with some roots to each, the best of them, if
wanted, may be planted in nursery rows at proper distances; they
will make good plants in two or three years time; and the mother
plants being cleared therefrom, will be preserved in a more regular
proper growth.

After the above occasional pruning, let the ground be dug between
the rows of the continuing shrubs, if not done before; digging it
one spade deep, in a neat regular manner, to remain in good culti-
vated order all the spring and ensuing summer.

Sowing Stones to raise Stocks for Ghrafting, d^c.

As early as possible this month, sow the stones of plums, peaches,
nectarines, apricots and cherries, £cc. which were preserved in sand
or earth, from the time of the fruit being ripe till this period; for
unless they were preserved in this way, few of them uill grow;
these may either be sown in drills, or broad cast in a bed, and
covered from an inch, to two inches deep, according to the light-
ness of the soil and tlie proportionate size of the stones. I am by
no means an advocate for covering seeds of any kind too deep, never
having had good success from such. If the above sorts are covered
but lightly, they will easily grow through it, and when up, you can
refresh them by sifting fresh earth over them if in beds, and if in
drills, by drawing it to their stems.

Sowing Haws for the raising of TJiorn-quicks.

Having collected a sufficiency of fruit, of the various kinds of
hawthorn which you desire to propagate, the autumn twelvemonths
previous to the time of sowing, which is, as early in spring as it is
possible to get the ground in a good state of culture to receive them;
proceed to sowing as hereafter directed.

When you collect these seeds in autumn, mix them with equal
quantities of light sandy earth, and lay them in that state on the sur-
face of a dry spot of ground in your best enclosed garden, where they
cannot be disturbed by hogs, Sec. form this mixture into a narrow
sloping ridge, tapering to the top, and cover it with light loose earth
two inches thick all over; the April following turn this ridge, mix-
ing the whole together, and form it again in the same way, covering
in like manner as before, with two inches deep of light loose earth;
repeat this again in the months of July and August, by which the
seeds in every part will be equally prepared for vegetation. A
trench must be cut round this ridge to prevent any water from
lodging itbout the seeds; for this would rot many and injure others,
especially in the second winter, when the stones would be loos-
ing their cementing quality, and begin to open; for until this is

Feb.] the nursery. I53

effected, the kernels cannot vegetate. Hence the necessity and great
advantage of not burying the stones in the earth, as injudiciously
practised by many; for if so treated, they would not have the advan-
tage destined by nature for their due preparation, and would labour
under many other disadvantages, as hereafter noticed.

It is well known, that many kinds of seeds, when buried in the
earth, below the power of vegetation, remain in an inactive state for
several years, even those whose nature it is to vegetate the first
season, when properly exposed; how much more so must it be,
with seeds of such tardy vegetation as haws, and many other
sorts: but by being thus exposed to the influence of the sun and
air, and frequently turned as before directed, all become equally and
sufficiently prepared, and will not fail, when sowed in due season
and suitable soil, to reward the judicious cultivator with an abun-
dant crop.

When those seeds are buried deep, and not mixed with a due
quantity of earth, as before observed, they are subject to ferment
too powerfully, and also to be injured by too much wet, and will
never be found, more especially, when large quantities of them are
together, to vegetate equally; those near the surface, and sides of
the pit, doing tolerably well; some of the others not growing until a
full year after being sowed, and the greater number not at all.

There is not the least danger 10 be apprehended from frost
injuring the seeds, whilst so much exposed to it in those ridges;
however, it will not be amiss to strew a light covering of long litter
over them, on the approach of winter; which will keep them dry, and
consequently in a better state for sowing, when the season arrives.

The above mode of preparation, is the result of the Author's ex-
perience, for upwards of tyt-enty years; being in the habit of raising
several millions of thorn quicks annually.

Your haws being prepared, as above, make ready a piece of good,
rich ground, neither upon an elevated situation, nor too low; in the
former, the summer drought would be unfriendly, and in the latter,
they would be subject to mildew: this must be done as early in
spring as you can get the ground to woi'k freely and pulverize well;
for the haws begin to throw out roots at a very early period, and if
not sown at this time, or before, a great number of those roots will
be broken off in the act of sowing, and thereby totally lost; the
oihers which escape this accident, having their radicles extended
on the surface, penetrate the earth at the extreme points of those
roots, forming right angles with the parts already produced, by
which means they can never drive up the seed-leaves, wiih as much
vigour as if the radicles descended immediately in a perpendicular
direction from the stones of the fruit; hence the necessity of early
sowing.

The ground, however, must not be wrought while wet, or at least
the seeds should not be covered with wet or heavy earth, nor too
deep; for if the surface should cake, or become stiff in consequence
of dry weather ensuing, few of these young plants, having broad
seed-leaves, could bear up through it; therefore, you must be very

U

154 THE NURSERY. [Feb.

cautious in that point, and if the earth of your bed is not li^ht and
dry enough for this purpose, you must carry as nmch as will cover
the seeds from some dry compost heap, or some quarter of the gar-
den where it can be found in a suitul)le condition.

On examininti^ your haws, if you lind the earth in which they are
mixed, any way clogged with too much moisture, so that the parts
and seeds would not separate freely in the act of sowing; mix
therewith a sufficient quantity of slack-lime, or wood-ashes, to ac-
complish that end.

Having every thing in readiness, and your ground well dug, and
raked effectually as you proceeded in the digging, still presuming
that it is in the best possible state of preparation, ky it out into four
feet wide beds, leaving twelve or fourteen inches of an alley be-
tween each, and with the back of the rake, push off into these al-
leys, about three quarters of an inch of the fine raked surface of
the beds, one half of each bed to the one side, and the other to
the opposite; this done, sow your haws thereon, earth and all as
they had lain, so thick that you may expect a thousand plants at
least, after every reasonable allowance for faulty or imperfect seeds,
(there being many of these,) on every three or four yards of your
beds; (I have often had that number upon as many feet) then with
a spade or shovel, cast the earth cut of the alleys evenly over the beds,
covering the seeds not more than three quarters of an inch deep,
and not more than half an inch, if the earth be any way stiff; after
which, rake the lops of the beds very lightly, taking care not to dis-
turb the seeds, in order to take off the lumps and to give a neat
appearance to the work.

The business being thus finished for the present, should you at a
future period perceive, especially when the plants are beginning to
appear above ground, any stiffness on the surface, occasioned by dry
weather, give the beds frequent, but gentle waterings, till all those
innocent prisoners are released from their !iondage, after which
you will have pleasure and profit in their progress.

But this is not all; the whole of your former troiible will be
totally lost, unless you are particularly careful in keeping these
beds effectually free from weeds, from the moment the plants appear
above ground, till they are fit to be planted in hedge-rows, and even
then, until they have arrived at a sufficient size, not to be injured
by such.

It was an old practice, to sow these seeds as soon as ripe, covering
them about an inch deep; but the loss of the ground during the
long period in which they lie dormant, the trouble and expense
of weeding them all that time, the numbers pulled up and exposed
to animals of various sorts, and I may say the exposure of the
whole to mice, squirrels, &c. have very justly induced to the aban-
donment of that mode of culture.

Indeed, they may be sown with considerable safety, the November
twelve months after they are ripe, being previously prepared as
before directed, there is no impediment in their way at that season,
but their long exposure to the depredations of mice, &c. which are
extremely fond of their kernels; as to frost they value it not.

Feb.] the NURSERY. 155

However, upon the whole, I prefer the early spring sowing, and
have generally practised it with the best success.

Many of these plants, and indeed the greater numbers, if the
ground be good, will be fit for planting into the face of ditches,
the autumn or spring following, and the entire of them that time
twelve months; but if they are intended for foiming upright hedges,
the strongest of the year old plants, must, in the month of March,
or very early in April, be drawn out of the seed beds, their long
tap-roots cut off, so as to shorten them to the length of five or six
inches, and then planted into nursery rows, about two feet asunder,
and the plants to be about six inches distant in these rows; having
there, two or three years growth, they will be in prime condition for
that purpose; the remaining plants may be taken up the spring fol-
lowing, and treated in the same way.

It often happens that an after growth of young plants, arises in the
seed-bed the second year, particularly when the haws have not been
well prepared, these seldom come to any thing; but if you pursue
the method already prescribed, you may depend on a good and ge-
neral crop the first year.

The various kinds of hawthorns that, on account of their spini-
ness, might suit for live hedges, are the following; all being indige-
nous in the United States, except the first, which is the kind princi-
pally used in Europe for that purpose.

1. Crataegus Oxyacantha, or Common European Hawthorn, or
Whitethorn. Leaves obtuse subtrifate serrate.

With a robust trunk, branching from the bottom upwards, to ten
or fifteen feet high, the branches armed with spines, leaves obtuse,
trifid and sawed, with numerous clusters of flowers from the sides
and ends of the branches, succeeded by bunches of dark-red fruit,
commonly called haws; flowers two styled, sometimes three or
four.

2. Crataegus coccinea, or great American Hawthorn. Leaves
cordate-ovate^ gas/i-angled, smooth; petioles and calyxes glandular;

JloiversJive'Styled.

This rises, when detached, to the height of near twenty feet, with
a large upright trunk, dividing into many, strong, irregular, smooth
branches, so as to form a large head. Leaves large and bending
backwards; they are about four inches long, and three and a half
broad, having five or six pair of strong nerves, and become of a
brownish red in autumn. The flowers come out from the sides of
the branches in umbels or large clusters; they are large, make a
noble show early in May, and are succeeded by large fruit of a bright
scarlet colour, which ripens in August or September. The branches
are marked with irregularly scattered dots, thorns axillary, stout,
spreading very much, from the rudiments of the branches. Pedun-
cles pubescent, corymbed.

3. Cratagus Cj-us galli, ov Cockspur Hawtliorn. Leaves subsessile,
glittering, coriaceous; calycine leajlets, lanceolate subserrate;Jloiversy
two-styled,

Stem strong, ten to fifteen feet high, bark of the stem rough,
of the branches smooth and reddish. Leaves lanceolate, three

156 1'HE NURSERY. [Feb.

inches long, and about one inch broad in Uie middle, serrate, of a
lucid green, alternate; at many of the joints are smaller leaves in
clusters: thorns axillary, very strong, two inches in length, and
bending like a cock's-spur. Flowers axillary, in roundish clusters,
generally two together, petals white, with a blusli of red. Styles
three. Fruit globular, of a red colour. It flowers the latter end of
May.

4. Crar^^-us /cjmen/osc, or Wolly-leaved Hawthorn. Leaves ivedgC'
form-ovate serrate.^ somewhat angular ^ villose underneath.

This has a slender shrubby stem, about six or seven feet high,
sending out many irregular branches, armed with long slender
thorns. The flowers are small, proceeding from the sides of the
branches, sometimes single, and at other times two or three upon
the same peduncle, having large leafy calyxes, and being succeeded
by small roundish fruit. The flowers appear the latter end of May,
and the fruit ripens in September.

5. Cratiegua cordata, or Maple-leaved Hawthorn. Leaves cordate-
ovate, gash-angled, smooth, fictioles and calyxes, without glands;

Jloivers Jive-styled.

This rises with a strong woody stem, about 5 or 6 feet high, send-
ing out many spreading branches, which incline to a horizontal po-
sition. Leaves different in form, some indented at the petiole, others
not; they are generally about an inch and half long, and nearly of
the same breadth in the middle, ending in acute points, and their
borders cut into several acute parts, which are sharply serrate; they
are of a bright green, and stand on very slender petioles, about an
inch in length. The branches are armed with a few pretty long
slender spines. The flowers come out in small bunches from the
sides of the branches. Stamens eight. Styles four; fruit round con-
taining two seeds.

Branches spotted with white; leaves cut into three, five, or seven
segments, accuminate, the size of birch-leaves. Petiole very slen-
der, shorter than the leaves. Corymb compound. Bractes at the
base of the peduncles, solitary, subulate, very small, deciduous.
Flowers somewhat smaller than the European Hawthorn. Teeth
of the calyx very short, obtuse, falling off" when the fruit is ripe.
Styles five. Fruit an oblate spheroid, scarlet, the size of a red
currant; the navel loose, naked. Stones five, the tops filling up the
navel, and naked. It flowers the last of the genus.

4. Cratagus fiyrifolia, or Pear-leaved Hawthorn. Leaves ovate-
eli/iiic, gash-serrate, somcivhat filaited and hirt, calyxes a little villofte,
leaflets linnear-lanceolate serrate, Jloivers three-styled. This species
is sometimes unarmed.

5. Crattegus elifitica, or Oval-leaved Hawthorn. Leaves elifitic,
unequally serrate smooth, fielicles and calyxes glandular, fruit globu-
lar,Jive-seeded.

6. Crattegus glandulosa, or Hollow-leaved Hawthorn. Leaves
obovate-ivedge-Jorm, angular smooth glittering; petioles stipules and
calyxes glandular; fruit oval; five-seeded.

This has very stout thorns. It flowers in May, and is a very
beautiful shrub.

Feb.] the NURSERY. 15 7

7. Cratagus flava^ or Yellow Pear-berried Hawthorn. Leaver
ovate Hvedge-formy angular smooth glittering; Jietiolesy stipules^, and
calyxes, glandular; fruit turbinate; four-seeded.

There are often small leaves on the thorns, which in this and the
following species, are slender, and a little bent at the ends; it flowers
in May.

8. Crategus fiarvifiora, or Gooseberry-leaved Hawthorn. Leaves
luedge-form-ovate gashed serrate; calycine leaflets gashed the length
of the fruit ; flowers five-styled.

This is of humble growth, seldom rising more than five or six
feet, sending out a great number of branches, which are interwoven,
and armed with very long slender spines. The leaves are scarcely
an inch long, and some are not more than half an inch broad, but
others are almost as broad as they are long; they are serrate, and
have very short foot-stalks. The flowers are produced at the ends
of the branches, generally one coming out from between the leaves,
but sometimes there are two or three, one below the other at the
axils; they have large leafy calyxes, much longer than the petals;
they are small, have twelve or more stamens, and four styles. The
fruit is small, and of an herbaceous yellow colour when ripe.

There are many oiher varieties of the hawthorn, in the United
States; but these being generally unfurnished with spines, are not
so suitable for hedges as those described. Of the above, the first,
second, and third sorts, where they can conveniently be had, are
the best kinds to cultivate; but either of them will answer that pur-
pose very well. The cultivation of all the species is similar.

For further particulars, and for the best methods of planting
hedges, as well as the several kinds of trees and shrubs most suita-
ble for them, see the JVursery in March.

Sowing various kinds of hardy Tree and Shrub Seeds, which
require a previous Preparation.

Ash, hornbean, red cedar, mezereon, juniper, holly, yew, spin-
dle-tree, bladder-nut, and Lauruses of various kinds, with many
others, will require the same preparation as directed for haws; they
must be sowed at the same time, and covered only in proportion to
the size of their seeds; that is, the smaller seeds will require not
more than a quarter inch of covering, and the larger, from half to
three quarters of an inch, in proportion to the lightness of the
soil. Always avoid, at this season particularly, sowing seeds of any
kind too deep, especially, if the ground is of a heavy binding nature,
or too wet at the time of working it.

Sowing Kernels of Apples, Pears and Quinces.

So soon as you find the ground in a good dry state, sow the ker-
nels of apples, pears and quinces, to raise stocks for budding and
grafting on; the sooner that this can be done, the better. It will
be necessary to have these kernels preserved, either in sand or
earth, from the time they were taken out of the fruit, till the time of

158 THE PLEASURE, OR [Feb.

sowinj;; or to take them at that time immediately fresh out of the
fruitj for when long exposed to the dry air, they loose their vegeta-
tive quality.

Care of tender and young seedling Trees and Shrubs.

In order to avoid repetitions, and make room for tether important
matter, I refer you for instructiuiis on the above svjl.ject. to page
59; observing -hat the same care and management reconi mended
there, will be necessary during the whole of the winter months.

By one night's neglect at this season, you mi^ht loose what cost
you the labour of months; therefore diligent care and attention is
particularly requisite during severe weather.

Hot-beds for sowing Tree and Shrub Seeds in.

Make hot-beds for sowing therein, some of the more curious
kinds of tree, and shrub seeds. These are to be made as directed
for cucumbers in page 12, and fully as substantial; sow the seeds
either in pots or long narrow boxes, covering each kind with light
dry earth, in proportion to its size; then plunge these pots and boxes
to their rims in the earth of the beds, but not till after the violent
heat has passed away; sprinkle the earth in these pots frequently
but very lightly with water, till the plants are up, after which you
may give it in proportion to their apparent necessity.

Keep the beds carefully covered at nights, and in desperately
severe weather; and when the heat declines renew it by adding a
lining of fresh horse dung to the sides and ends occasionally.

SOUTHERN STATES.

The various works recommended to be done in page 60, this
month, and March, in the N'lcrsery; may be now practised with good
success in Georgia and South Carolina, and various other parts of
the more southern states. This being their proper period for graft-
ing, I refer them for general observations and instructions on that
head, to the work of the JVursery in March.

THE PLEASURE, OR FLOWER GARDEN.

Hardy annual Flower-Seeds.

About the latter end of this month, if the weather is mild and dry,
you may sow many sorts of hardy annual flower seeds in borders,
and other parts of the pleasure-garden.

i

Feb.J flower garden. 159

The sorts proper to sow at this time are larkspur and flos Adonis,
scarlet pea, sweet-scented and Tangier peas, candy-tuft, dwarf
lychnis, Venus's looking-glass, Lobel's catch-fly, Venus's navel-
wort, dwarf poppy, Nigella, annual sun-flower, oriental mallow, lava-
tera, and hawk weed, with many other sorts.

Some of these, if sown now, particularly the larkspur, flos
Adonis, sweet and Tangier peas, will flower much better, than if
sown at a later period.

All the above seeds must be sown in the places where you intend
the plants to flower, in beds, borders, pots, &c. They must not be
transplanted- for these sorts will not succeed so well by that practice.
The following is the method: —

The flower borders having been previously dug, dig with a trowel
small patches therein, about six inches in width, at moderate dis-
tances, breaking the earth well, and making the surface even; draw
a little earth off" the top to one side, then sow the seed therein, each
sort in separate patches, and cover it with the earth that was drawn
oft\ observing to cover the small seeds near a quaner of an inch
deep, the larger in proportion to their size; but the pea kinds must
be covered an inch deep at least.

When the plants have been up some time, the larger growing-
kinds should, where they stand too thick, be regularly thinned; ob-
serving fo allow every kind, according to its growth, proper room
to grow.

For instance, the sun-flower to be left one in a place; the orien-
tal mallow, and lavatera, not more than three; the rest may be left
thicker. — See May 8cc.

Plant hardy herbaceous fibrous -rooted fioivering Perennials.

Towards the end of the month, if the weather be mild and open
and the ground dry, you may plant, where wanted, most sorts of
hardy fibrous-rooted flowering plants, both of perennials and bien-
nials, such as Lobelias, Phloxes, Dracocephalums, polyanthuses,
primroses, London-pride, violets, double chamomile, thrift, gen-
lianella, hepaticas, and saxifrage.

Plant also rose-campion, rockets, catch-fly scarlet-lychnis, double
feverfew, carnations, pinks, sweet-williams, columbines, Canterbury-
bells; monk's-hood, Greek valarian, tree primrose, fox-glove,
golden rods, perennial asters, perennial sun-flowers, holyhocks,
French honeysuckles, and many others.

In planting the above, or any other sorts, particularly at this ear-
ly period, observe to preserve balls of earth about their roots, to
dispose them regularly, and intermix the different kinds in such
order as there may be a variety of colours, as well as a regular suc-
cession of flowers in every part during the flowering season.

Auriculas.

The choice kinds of auriculas in pots must now be treated with
more than ordinary care, for their flower-buds will soon begin to

160 THE PLEASURE, OR [Feb,

advance; therefore the plants should be carefully defended from
frost and cold heavy rains.

This must be done by a good covering of glass and mats, but
every mild and dry day the plants must be entirely uncovered.

Any old decayed leaves, should be picked off as they appear, the
earth loosened at the top of the pots, some of it taken out and re-
placed with good fresh compost mould. This will encourage the
pushing of young roots, from immediately under the leaves, which
will greatly strengthen the plants.

Be very cautious however, not to force those plants at this season,
for that would prevent their flowering in any tolerable perfection;
all they require, is to be protected from severe frost, snow, cutting
winds and cold rains; they are to have no bottom heat whatever,
nor are the glasses to be kept close in any kind of sun-shine, that
might produce a strong heat in the frame; on the contrary, they
must get as much air as possible, by taking the glasses off every
sunny or mild day, and replacing them at night and in cold weather;
and when you cannot take them totally off, raise them a little behind,
or slide them either up or down, at every favourable opportunity.
A little frost will not do them much injury, especially, until their
flower-buds begin to appear, but after that, they must be carefully
protected therefrom: cold heavy rains is their utter enemy at all
times, against which you must carefully guard.

Sow Auricula and Polyanthus Seeds.

Auricula and polyanthus seed may be sown any time in this
month; they will grow freely, and the plants from this sowing will
rise well. The seeds may be sown in boxes, or large pots filled
with light rich earth, and covered about the eighth of an inch deep;
then place the pots or boxes in a hot-bed frame at work, give them
frequent but light sprinklings of water, both before and after the
plans appear, and a reasonable proportion of air at favourable oppor-
tunities: by this means, you will have a fine crop of seedlings,
handsomely advanced, towards the beginning of May; when, after
all danger from frost is over, (for these being tenderly raised, would
be subject to injury therefrom) take the pots or boxes out of the
frame, and place them where they can have only the morning sun
till ten o'clock, and that of the afternoon after five, during the re-
mainder of the summer. The mid-day sun you must cai'efully guard
against; for it would totally destroy your plants.

Snails and slugs, being utter enemies to these plants, whilst in a
seedling state; it will be necessary, so soon as you sow the seeds,
and before placing the pots or boxes in a hot-bed, or under the pro-
tection of glasses without bottom heat, for either method will do,
to make lines of short, coarse, strong hair, about half an inch or
better in diameter, to tie round each pot or box, immediately under
the rim; the line being tied, trim the long loose hairs around it
with a pair of scissors, to a quarter of an inch in length, which short
prickly hairs will, as often as snails or the like approach it, in the
act of ascending the sides of the pots or boxes, prick them, cause

Feb.] FLOWER-GARDEN. 161

them to change their course, and thereby finally protect the young
plants from enemies, which would in a few hours, totally eat up the
finest crops, particularly the auriculas.

Tulips, Hyacinths, Anemones and Ranunculuses.

Defend the beds of the more curious or valuable tulips, hyacinths,
anemones, and ranunculuses, from frost, snow, and cold or excessive
rains; the plants will now begin to appear above ground; and the
beds wherein the finest of these flower-roots are planted, should now,
where intended, and if not done before, be arched over with hoops;
and in frosty, or extremely bad weather, let mats or canvas be drawn
over them, in some measure to defend the advancing flower-buds.

This, where it can be conveniently done, should not now be
omitted to the choicer kinds, when required to have them blow
in their utmost perfection; for, although they are hardy enough,
yet, being protected in their early flower-buds from inclement
weather, both in this and the next month, the blow will be much finer
than if fully exposed; however, this care is not necessary for the
common kinds, either in beds or borders.

The early anemones and ranunculuses which were planted in
September or early in October, and are consequently in a considerable
state of forwardness, will still require greater protection than such
as were late planted; for the rudiments of their flowers being in a
somewhat advanced state, would be greatly injured, if too much ex-
posed, especially to the great extremes of our mid-day sun, and the
severe nigh, frosts prevalent at this season; therefore by protecting
them carefully from the rigeur of the one, you do not expose them
so much to the power of the other; but when both are suffered to
act alternately with their full respective force, upon these, as well as
upon many other of the more tender kinds of flowers and esculents,
a disorganization of their parts is the immediate consequence, and an
untimely death their ultimate end. This is a " golden rule," which
ought to be assiduously observed, with respect to every plant that is
not sufticienily hardy to bear the frosts of our rigorous winters.

For the convenience of affording all the above choice kinds, a
suitable protection, they ought to be planted in beds of rich compost
mould, surrounded with a hot-bed or other temporary frame; with
tanner's bark or other protection drawn up on the outsides thereof, all
round, as high as the upper parts; which will prevent the frost
from penetrating and injuring the plants next the frame. Over this
frame, you can lay a covering of boards and mats, when necessary,
or if you have not mats, straw or other suitable covering may be
used. Frost will enter the beds, notwithstanding this kind of care,
but not in sufficient force to do much injury, for these plants are
tolerably hardy, and require only to be protected from its too pow-
erful influence, as well as that of the sun's.

The plants must be exposed to the full air constantly, except
while freezing sufficiently strong to bind up the earth, and at night,
or during the prevalence of cold heavy rains or snow. Such of the
preceding, and other hardy bulbs, &c. as yet remain out of ground,

X

1(32 THE PLEASURE, OR [Feb

ought to be planted as soon as possible; observing the diieclions
given in page 82, &c. Anemones and ranunculuses, it" carefully pre-
served, will yet succeed very vv^ell.

Carnations and Pinks.

Your choice carnations and pinks, which were planted in pots, and
plunged in beds under the proleciion of frames and coverings, ought,
for the present, to be managed in every respect, as above directed
for the protection of anemones, ranunculuses, &c. by this treatment,
you may expect to be rewarded with a bloom of these charming
flowers in the highest degree of perfection.

Towards the end of this month, if the weather is mild, but not
otherwise, you may transplant such as were raised last year from
layers, into large pots or into the open borders, Sec. where you in-
tend them to blow; but this would have been better, if done in au-
tumn. Also such seedling plants as were raised last season, may,
under similar circumstances, be transplanted into any beds or
borders which are ready for their reception, always observing, to
remove them with balls of earth round their roots. For further par-
ticulars, see next month.

Tender Annuals,

The latter end of this month will be a suitable period, for prepar-
ing to sow some of the more valuable and curious sorts of tender
annuals; such as the fine kinds of double balsams, tricolors, me-
sembryanthemums or ice plants, browallia's sensitive plunt Ipomoea
Quamoclit, and many others.

Therefore, provide some new horse-dung, and let it be thrown up
in a heap, and in eight or ten days it will be in good condition to
make the bed. Let this be made about three feet high oi dung, le-
velling the top, and then set on the frame and glasses. When the
burning heat is over, lay on the earth, observing that, for this use, it
must be rich, light, and perfectly dry, and broken pre'ty small by
rubbing it between the hands; the depth of earth on the bed must
be about five or six inches, making the surface level and smooth.

The seed may either be sown on the surface, observing to sow
each sort separate, covering them about a quarter of an inch, or
rather less, with li.^ht earth; or you may draw some shallow drills
with your finger, from the back to the front of the bed, sow the
seeds therein, and cover as above; or you may sow them in pots,
and plunge these into the earth of the hot-bed. But if you intend
sowing in pots, and that you have the convenience of tanner's bark,
lay on eight or nine inches, or a foot deep of it all over the bed in
place of the earth, to plunge your pots therein; in which case two
and a half feet deep of dung will be sufficient.

As soon as the plants appear, admit fresh air to them every day
when the weather is any way mild; and let them have, now and
then, gentle sprinklings of water. Mind to cover the glasses every
night, and in bad weather with mats; or if boards are first laid on,
and then covered with mats, they will afibrd an additional protection.

Feb.] FLOWER-GARDEN. 168

But in raising the above annuals, if it is required to be saving of
hot dung and trouble, and that there are cucumber or melon hot-
beds at work, you may sow them in pots, and place them in these
beds to raise the plants; which, may afterwards be transplanted or
pricked into other pots in the same, or into a nursery hot-bed, to
forward them to a proper size — For the further management of
these plants, see March and Jpril.

Sowing Ten-iveek Stock and Mignonette.

The ten-week stock is a beautiful annual; none makes a more
agreeable appearance in pots, and in the borders, &c. and it con-
tinues a long time in blow. The mignonette imparts a sweet and
agreeable odour, for which purpose it is extremely worthy of cul-
tivation.

When these plants are wanted in early perfection, the seeds of
either, may be sown towards the end of this month, in a slight hot-
bed, or in a very warm border, to be covered with a frame and
glasses; but by sowing the seed in the former, it will bring the
plants on much sooner, though in the latter they will be tolerable
early, and being raised in a more hardy manner, may be planted
out into the borders with better success; yet, when they are wanted
for an early blow in pots, the hot-bed is preferable.

Sow the seeds either in pots, or on the surface of the bed, cover-
ing them with light dry earth about the eighth of an inch deep
or a little better, and give them gentle occasional waterings and the
necessary protection from the inclemencies of the weather, and
plenty of air at proper opportunities. Towards the latter end of
April, these may be planted into the open borders, or wherever
they are destined to remain, with good success. The mignonette
being very impatient of transplanting, ought to be taken up, with
as much earth as possible round the roots, and so transplanted with
particular care.

But if your plants stand thick in the seed-bed, some of them, when
they have been up about three or four weeks, or when about an inch
high, may be pricked out, either into a slight hot-bed, which will
forward them considerably, and some into small pots to be placed
therein, three plants in each; others may be planted on a warm bor-
der, three inches asunder, and covered with hand-glasses; after they
have stood a month, all those not potted should be planted where
they are to remain.

Stockgilly -flowers and Wall-flowers.

The choice double and other stockgilly-flowers and wall-flowers,
which you have in pots, and under the protection of any kind of co-
vering, should never be exposed to a strong sun, whilst in a frozen
state; they will stand the winter with very little protection from
frost, but must be carefully guarded against the sun's influence at
such times.

164 I'HE PLEASURE, OR [Feb.

Forcing early Flowers.

Where early flowers are required, either for ornament or for
sale, you must prepare for this business in October, and then plant,
in suitable sized pots, the various kinds that you intend to force;
such as carnations, pinks, sweet-williams, double daisies, and other
fibrous rooted plants. The earliest kinds of hyacinths, van-thol and
other early tulips, anemones, ranunculuses, jonquils, narcissuses of
sorts, dwarf Persian irises, crocuses in ditferent varieties, and many
other kinds of early flowering bulbs, having been protected in a
suitable manner, as heretofore directed; you may, about the begin-
ning of this month, plant these pots, or such of them as you wish
to force for the earliest bloom, in any forcing department now at
work, such as hot-houses, forcing-houses of any kind, hot-beds, &c.
By plunging the pots into the bark-pits or hot-beds, you will have
them to flower the sooner. As the hyacinths, carnations and pinks
advance, tie their flower stems to neat sticks, or to pieces of painted
wire stuck into the pots for that purpose.

You may likewise force pots of roses, honey-suckles, jasmines,
double flowering almonds, thorns, cherries and peaches, and also any
other early flowering and desirable plants, by the same means.

Either of the preceding kinds may be forced, in board forcing-
frames, with the assistance of hot dung applied to the back and ends
thereof; these being constructed of strong inch and half, or two inch
plank, made eighteen inches high in front, and five or six feet high
in the back, the ends in proportion, and length at pleasure. The
width to be five or six feet, and the whole covered with sloping
glasses.

Having such a frame in readiness, fill the inside thereof, to a
level with the front, with fresh tanner's bark, into which to plunge
your pots; or if you have not the convenience of bark, sink a pit
into the earth about eighteen inches deep, which fill to the surface
with fresh horse-dung; place the frame thereon, and add more dung
till it reaches within six inches of the upper part of the frame in
front; then fill the remainder to that level with good dry earth.

In either case, plunge the pots to their rims in the bark or earth,
and add a lining of good horse-dung to the back and ends of the
frame, to its entire height, which will produce a strong growing
heat in the inside, sufficient for any purpose of forcing small plants.
The glasses being placed on this kind of frame, with a considerable
degree of elevation, will receive the rays of the sun in a more direct
manner, than if not elevated so much, by which means more heat
will be accumulated.

Shelves may be erected in this kind of frame, towards the back
part, if the plants intended to be forced are not large, and the lining
can be renewed as often as necessary.

Feb.] flower-garden. 165

Dress and dig the Borders, Beds, Sfc.

When the weather permits, let the flower beds and borders, in
general, be thoroughly cleared from weeds, and from every kind
of litter; for neatness in those parts of the garden is agreeable at all
times, but more particularly at this season.

Therefore, let the surface of the beds and borders be lightly and
carefully loosened with a hoe, in a dry day, and let them be neatly
raked; which will give an air of liveliness to the surface, and the
whole will appear neat and very pleasing to the eye, and well worth
the labour.

Likewise if any borders, beds, 8cc. were not dug last autumn or
winter, it should now be done, ready for the reception of flower
plants, seeds, &c, and that the whole may appear fresh and neat.

Prune Flowering-Shrubs.

Finish pruning the hardy deciduous flowering shrubs, where
wanted. In doing this work, observe to cut out all dead wood; and
where any of the branches are too long, or grow straggling, let
them be shortened, or cut off close, as you shall see necessary; and
likewise, where the branches of different shrubs interfere, or run
into each other, shorten them, so that each may stand singly, and
clear of another; then all the different shrubs will show themselves
distinctly and to the best advantage.

When the shrubs are pruned, let the cuttings be cleared away,
and the ground be neatly dug between, and about all the plants,
observing to take off all suckers arising from the roots. Nothing
looks better in a shrubbery than to see the ground neat and fresh
between the flowering shrubs and ever-greens, &c. especially in
such clumps and other compartments where the shrubs stand
distant.

But as sometimes particular parts of a shrubbery are on some oc-
casions required to form a close thicket, in that case very little pru-
ning, or digging, &c. is wanted.

Care of Grass Walks and Lawns.

Grass walks and lawns should be kept extremely clean; in dry
weather, as soon as the greater winter frost is over, roll them with
a heavy roller, to settle the earth which the frost had hoved up.

Gravel Walks.

Keep the gravel walks perfectly clean and free from moss, weeds,
or litter of any kind; let them be well rolled, to settle them after
the winter frost, whieh will give them a fresh and neat appearance,
and render them comfortable for walking on.

166 '^^^ GREEN-HOUSE. [Feb.

SOUTHERN STATES.

This is a very proper period in the southern states, to sow annual,
biennial and perennial flower seeds, and to transplant the various
kinds of fibrous rooted herbaceous flowerinij plants; to plant out
into the borders of the pleasure grounds, all kinds of deciduous
trees, flowering and ornamental shrubs; and in short, to perform all
the other works directed to be done either in this or next month, in
the Pleasure or Flower-garden compartments, which are suitable in
that climate.

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

Particular attention ought to be [uid to the Green-house
plants at this season, in order to give them occasional waterings and
fresh air, and if severe frost should prevail, to give the necessary
protection.

In mild weather, they will require refreshments of water now
and then, and admission of external air, whenever it can be given
with safety: though all should enjoy an equal benefit of the latter,
it is not so with respect to the former.

Oranges, lemons, and myrtles, and most other of the woody
plants, will require water frequently; but never give them much at
a time, and to none but where absolutely necessary.

The herbaceous kinds will also require occasional supplies of
water, but less frequent, and in less quantities than the woody
tribe.

Let the succulent kinds, such as aloes, sedems, mesembryanthe-
mums, cactuses, kc. have water but very sparingly, and only when
the earth in the pots is very dry.

Examine the tubs and pots separately, to see which want water;
let none be given but where necessary, and always very moderately:
a little will be serviceable, but too much would be of bad consequence
at this season.

Air should be admitted to the plants at all times when the weather
is favourable, for that is a necessary article; they cannot thrive
without it, nor continue a healthful lively appearance. Every day,
when the weather is mild, let some of the windows be opened a little
way, for the admission of air, and take care that they are shut again
in due time.

But be very particular not to admit sharp or cutting winds, or
frosty air into the green -house at this season; to avoid which, you
must never be absent while the windows are less or more open:

Teb.] the green-house. 167

for the changes of weather are so sudden; that a few hours inatten-
tion might do irreparable injury to your plants, especially to the
more tender kinds. The safest method now of admitting air, is by
sliding down the upper tier of your front windows, less or more ac-
cording to the weather, which will not only admit the fresh, but dis-
charge any foul air which has been generated in the house.

In frosty weather, keep your lights all close, and if very severe,
defend ihe windows at nights. If you have roof-lights, protect them
as directed in January^ P«ige 87.

Fires may also occasionally be used, and indeed are indispensa-
ble at times; but these ought never to be resorted to, except when
absolutely necessary, either to keep out the frost, or to dispel damps;
and even then, you are to be very cautious, not to create thereby too
strong a heat in the house, never above 40 or 45° of Fahrenheit's
thermometer; for this would cause your plants to push and get into
a iVesh state of vegetation, which would be extremely injurious to
them during any of the winter months.

Another thing to be regarded, is to keep the plants of all kinds
free from casual decayed shoots and leaves, for those are not only
hurtful to the plants while in the house, but appear very unsightly;
therefore, whenever such appear, let them be constantly taken off;
keep also the pots, &c. and green-house always neatly clean.

The latter end of this, or any time next month, you ought to
loosen the earth in the top of the pots or tubs of your oranges,
lemons, and other plants in general, and take out about an inch deep
or more, adding some fresh in its stead; this will prove very bene-
ficial to the plants; and whoever will bestow that little dressing upon
them, will see the advantage of it in a short time.

Your pots of Cape bulbs, such as Ixias, Gladioluses, Lachenalias,
Moreas, Watsonias, Lapeyrousias, Walchendorfias, Tritonias, An-
tholizas, Cyanelias, and Oxalis versicolor. Babianas, Massonias,
Geissorhizas, Melanthiums, and Melasphserulas, &c. which are
now in a state of vegetation, should be kept all towards the front of
the house, and as near the glasses as possible; lest they should draw
up weakly, and thereby produce but indifferent flowers.

Hot-beds for raising Green-house Plants.

Make hot-beds to sow tender exotic seeds in, observing to work
the dung well, turning it over two or three times while it remains
in the heap, at intervals of four or five days; make the beds as di-
rected for cucumbers, page 12, to the height of three feet six inches;
put on your frames, and lay eight or ten inches of good fresh tan
even over the bed; if that cannot be conveniently had, lay on six
inches of dry earth; when the bed comes to its heat, sow your seeds
separately in pots, and plunge them into the tan, or earth; some of
these will not vegetate for a long time, and others, frequently lie in
the ground a whole year. When the heat of the bed is on the de-
cline, add a fresh lining of hot dung as directed for cucumber and
melon beds. Or these seeds may be sowed in pots, and plunged
into the bark-bed in the stove.

mS THE HOT-HOUSE. fFEB.

Plant cuttings of Geraniums, Fuschias, Myrtles, Hydrangeas,
and other green-house plants in small pots, one or more in each,
and plunge them into a hot-bed; they will now freely strike root
and be fine early plants; these when they begin to grow must have
plenty of air occasionally, and be carefully protected at night and in
severe wealhtr.

THE HOT-HOUSE.

As most Hot-houses are frequently infested with various kinds
of insects, which do very considerable injury to the plants, it may be
of some importance to give a description of these, and also the most
effectual methods of destroying them.

Of the Species of Insects that infest the Pine-Apple Plants.

1. The Bkown Turtle Ivsect. Coccus hesperidum., of Linn.
This species is not only found upon the pines and most other plants
which grow in Hot-houses, but also upon many plants which are in
Green-houses. These insects, after they are arrived at a certain age,
fix themselves immoveably to the leaves of the plant; but, before
that time, though they generally appear motionless, yet on a close
inspection, in a very warm day, many of them, and especially the
smaller ones, may be perceived to move to different parts of the
plant, being in appearance much like a turtle in miniature.

A sweet glutinous matter issues from these insects, this soon turns
mouldy, and in time becomes quite black, which causes the plants
to appear very unsightly. But as these insects do not, in any other
respect, injure the pine plants, 1 shall pass over them, and proceed
to those of a more pernicious nature.

2. The White Scaly Insect. This insect, as far as I can learn,
has hitherto remained undescribed; neither Linnxus, Geoffrey, or
Schaffer, seem to have known it.

This species is very nearly allied to the former, both of them
being Cocci, and of the oviparous kind: it seems to be exactly si-
milar to it in its manner of breeding, the process of which, curious
naturalists have obsei'ved to be nearly as follows: The eggs which
are discharged from the female, are pushed forward between the
skin of the belly and the leaf of the plant, to which the insect ad-
heres; in consequence of this, the skin of the belly becomes less
distended, which enables the insect to afford a large covering to the
eggs already excluded. When the eggs are all discharged, the
skin of the belly retreats close to the back of the parent insect,
which then appears like a mere scale. If the insect in this state be
raised with the point of a needle, from the leaf, a number of eggs
may be perceived under it, of a pale red colour, and very transpa-

Feb.] the HOT-HOUSE. 169

rent, not unlike the roe (or eggs) of fishes; but with this difference,
that they are not connected by a membrane, but loosely packed to-
gether. The mother, with a parent care, not only thus broods over
her eggs till they are hatched, but continues to protect her young
for a considerable time after, and either dies during the time she is
performing this last office for them, or very soon after.

The males of both the above species are much less than the fe-
males, and appear very different from them; the latter, except just
in their infant state, never assuming any other form than that of a
scale, as already described; whereas the males of both kinds, in
their last state, become flies; but neither of them can probably do
any injury to the pine plants whilst they are in that form: for the
flies of none of the Coccus kind have been found, on the strictest
examination by the most able naturalists, to have any organ by
which they can take in nourishment. In that state, therefore, they
can probably continue but a short time, the whole business of their
lives being then destined to the impregnation of the females.

I have hitherto only taken particular notice of the round scale,
or female inset, which is the most conspicuous, being far larger than
the male. But a careful observer will readily perceive, whei'e
these scales are numerous, another set of smaller ones intermixed
with them, which, if he be unacquainted with the natural history
of these insects, he will hardly suspect to belong to the same
animal, as they put on so different an appearance. They are
semitubular, and their length scarcely exceeds the diameter of
one of the small round scales, and their breadth is not more than a
third or fourth part of their length. These, however, contain the
males in one of their last stages, under which they assume the form
oinym/i/iSy and become flies. In order to be satisfied of this, a person
need only break open, with the point of a needle, a few of those
scales, when they are arrived at maturity, and he will perceive con-
tained within each of them, a very beautiful, but small fly, with all
the characters of the flies of the Coccus kind.

The length of this fly, from the head to the tail, exclusive of the
wings, and those long hair-s which are so characteristic of the flies
of this kind, is about the thirtieth part of an inch; and the length,
including the wings when folded one over the other, exclusive of
the hairs before mentioned, is not more than the eighteenth part of
of an inch.

The insects . of this last mentioned species are of a very perni-
cious nature. When the pines are infested with them, there will
be much trouble and great expense in cleaning them, even to keep
the insects under; and notwithstanding the greatest care, the plants
will suffer much, and in time grow very unsightly; their leaves will
appear yellow and sickly, and generally a great number of yellow
transparent spots, may be seen all over them.

On the least neglect in destroying them, they will increase innu-
merably, and so beset the lower parts of the leaves next the stem of
the plant (where they are most numerous) with scales, as nearly to
touch each other. And as they pierce that pan of the leaf im-
mediately under the scale, with their proboscis, they thereby not only

Y

^70 '^^^^ HOT-KOUSK. [Feb.

draw out the nutricious juices themselves, but also destroy the tubes
through which they flow. The upper parts of the leaves being
thus deprived of their nourishment, consequently die. But these
insects do not attack the roots, as has been frequently asserted.

3. The white mealy crimson-tinged Insect. This insect,
as well as the former, 1 have not found to be noticed by naturalists.

This species also Jias all the characters of a Coccus^ but in all
probability belongs to another genus. For whereas the two former
species are undoubtedly oviparous, this seems to be viviparous.
It is most probable that the young ones remain some time in the
mealy down of the mother till they have acquired strength, and
are arrived at such a degree of perfection, as to enable them to sup-
port themselves, when they forsake the parent insect, and disperse
10 different parts of the plant.

When this species is first perceived on the leaves of the Pine, it
appears to be nothing more than small particles of meal or powder,
collected together; but in a few days it assumes the form of a louse
or bug, thickly covered with a fine meal or down, of an oval form
on its upper* and very flat on its under side, from whence proceed
its legs, which are six in number. These, as well as many other
particulai's in the above, and preceding descriptions, are not to be
distinguished without the help of glasses.

The last described species, is of a more pernicious nature than
the former; it attacks every part of the plant, from the top of its
fruit, even to the most extreme parts of its roots. These animals
Wedge themselves in between the protuberances of the fruit, in a
most surprising manner, so as not to be got out without difficulty,
which not only makes the fruit appear very unsightly when it
becomes ripe; but by robbing it of its nutricious juices, is the cause
also of its wanting flavour and being ill tasted.

But the bad effects of this species on the roots of the plants, are
yet of a far worse consequence; for there, even at the bottom of the
pots, they increase wiih an uncommon degree of rapidity, so as soon
to become very numerous, and in the end to destroy the principal
roots of the plants.

There liave been various methods used for the extirpation of these
insects, such as shifting the plants and washing their roots; decoc-
tions from tobacco, wormwood, walnut leaves, henbane, and other
herbs of a bluer or poisonous quality. Some have added to the
above, snuff, sulphur and pepper. These and many other remedies
have been tried to very little purpose; at length Mr. VVm. Sfieechly,
then Gardener to the Duke of Portland, England, discovered and
recommended in his excellent treatise on the culture of the Pine-
Apple, the following receipt, which he asserts, " for the destruction
of these insects, had never failed him; its efliicacy being confirmed
by nine years experience."

THE RECEIPT.

Take one fiound of Quicksilver; fiut it into a glazed vessel, and
/tour u/ion it one gallon oj' boiling ivater, which let stand till it becomes

Feb.] the HOT-HOUSE. 17 £

told: then fiour off the water for use Refieat this on the same quick-
silver {for it will retain its fwivers^ lill a sufficient yiumber of gallons
are provided to fill a vessel intended for the fiurfiose. One in the form
of a trough.) that ivill hold eight or ten gallons^ is the most conve7iientj
especially for the large-sized plants.

Then to every gallon of this mercurial water add six ounces of soft
green soap., dissolved in a portion of the prepared water. Let the
mixture stand till it becomes milk-warm, which is the degree of warmth
it must be kept to during the time of dipping.

Before I proceed to the method of applying the above mixture
to the plants, I cannot avoid calling in question, any virtue that
may be attributed to a mercurial efBcacy therein; first, as it is the
opinion of the most experienced Chemists, that crude mercury is
not soluble, in any degree, in pure water, whether poured on, in a
cold or boiling state; secondly, that if it contained any acid when
put on, which might decompose a part of the mercury, the adding
thereto of soap, would by virtue of its alkali, neutralize the acid,
and thereby disengage and precipitate the mercury: therefore, it is
at least very questionable, whether its efficacy is not exclusively
attributable to the alkali of the soap.

If in place of the quicksilver or crude mercury, above recom-
mended, you were to substitute corrosive sublimate, in the following
or even in a greater proportion, there is no doubt of its effectually
answering the end, without doing the shadow of injury to the plants.

Dissolve half an oiuice of corrosive sublimate., in a pint of gin or
other spirit; ivlien dissolved, incorporate therewith four gallons of
soft water, and it will be ready for use.

The soft soap may be added thereto, in the proportion above men-
tioned, but its alkali acting on the acid of the sublimate, will convert
it into a mild muriat of mercury, and consequently render it much
less active than before.

Previously let it be observed, that this dressing cannot be effect-
ually applied with propriety to fruiting pines, either after they have
started their fruit, or for two months before it, as disturbing their
roots at that time would prevent their fruit growing to the full size;
however, succession plants may be dressed at any period, but in the
month of October that work can be done with the greatest success;
and fruiting plants, if infested, may at any lime be washed with the
solution, which will destroy such insects as affect them above
ground.

Before the plants are taken out of their pots, I would advise
the brushing off a few of the scaly insects (as in a common dress-
ing) especially towards the bottom of the leaves, where they will
sometimes be so numerous as in appearance to lie one upon ano-
ther, in which case the mixture might be prevented from penetrat-
ing to the bottom insects. I do not know that this business of brush-
ing is absolutely necessary; but as the whole operation in a large
Hot-house may be performed in one day, the labour of a person or
two extraordinary, for this purpose, can amoimt to but a very incon-
siderable expence.

172 'i'HE HOT-HOUSE. [Feb.

The leaves of the large-sized plants should then be tied toge-
ther; they will be more manageable in this form than with their
leaves loose, and less liable to be damaged. The plants should then
be taken out of the pots, and divested of their long loose roots, as
also a few of the decayed leaves at the bottom, and the rest washed
clean.

The last species of insects (by gardeners most generally called
Pine-Bug) will sometimes conceal themselves in holes at the bot-
tom of the stems of the plants, especially in large ones; and as the
mixture might be prevented from penetrating into those holes, by
the air contained in them, care should be taken to examine that part
with great circumspection.

It may not be amiss in this place to observe, that the earth which
comes out of the pine pots, together with the leaves and roots taken
from off the plants, should be removed to a considerable distance
from the Hot-house. Also, that the pots, out of which the pine
plants were taken, should not be used again for that purpose, with-
out first being put into boiling water.

The pine plants being now ready, let them be put either into the
mixture, or the corrosive solution, in which they should remain,
with every part covered, for the space of six minutes; then take
them out, first letting the tops decline for the mixture to drain
out of their centres. The vessel should be immediately filled with
fresh plants, and those taken out set to dry with their roots
downwards; for by placing them in that position the solution, Sec. will
descend, and penetrate to the very bottom of the leaves in the
centre of the plant, whereby the insects v/hich are concealed there,
■will be totally destroyed. The mixture will change the plants
to a sad green colour, which will give them the appearance of
being spoiled; but, as they become dry, they will in a great measure
resume their proper hue.

During the operation it will be necessary to add a supply of hot
mixture, in order to keep the whole to a proper degree of warmth,
as also to make up the deficiency which must naturally happen.

It will be proper to do this work in a fine day, and as soon in the
forenoon as convenient, that the plants may have time to dry, which
they will do in a few hours, and then they must undergo the same
operation a second time.

The process of the second operation being exactly the same as the
first, a repetition thereof is unnecessary.

After the second dipping, a spunge should be used to remove
any unsightly matter on the leaves of the plants. They should then
be set to dry with their tops downwards, that the mixture may drain
from every part; for it is necessary that every part of the plant should
be quite dry before it is planted.

During the performance of the above operations, a sufficient num-
ber of labourers should be employed in getting the Hot-house
ready for the reception of the plants, (as changing the tan, and clean-
ing every part of the Hot-house;) and if the inside of the roof were
painted at the same time it would be better. Also, it might be ser-
viccablcj if a small fire was made in the pine pit with charcoal and

Feb.] the HOTHOUSE. I73

sulphur, and the house shut up an hour or two to keep in the steam.
But in case there are vines, or other plants, growing in the Hot-
house, this last operation must be omitted.

If the above work cannot be done in one and the same day, the
pine plants may with great safety be set in a dry airy place for a day
or two, provided they are not put into heaps, which would greatly
damage them in a short time.

The mould intended for the pine plants at the first potting, should
be light and fine: And I would recommend that the pots be small
in proportion to the size of the plants, that each plant may be what
Gardeners term underpotted; they will strike root both sooner
and better than if put into larger pots, and at their next shifting
they will go into proper-sized pots, with their balls and roots
entire.

After the pine plants are replaced in the Hot-house, it will be
proper to shade the glasses in the middle of the day, whenever the
weather is warm and clear. The house should be constantly kept
to a great degree of heat, which will be the means of making the
plants strike sooner and stronger; it being evident that they cannot
draw themselves weak while in an inactive state: However, as soon
as the plants are perceived to grow, it will be necessary to give them
by degrees a greater quantity of air.

Great care should be taken to prevent the roots of the plants from
being injured by an over-heat of the tan, which may be done by
raising the pots, in case the tan should heat violently.

Other Insects found in Hot-houses, with the methods of destroying

them.

Besides the different species of insects, which are found so perni-
cious to the Pine-apple plants, there are other kinds that infest most
stoves, which frequently prove very troublesome; and although
they are not injurious to the Pine-apple, are yet very prejudicial to
most other plants kept there, either for use or ornament.

1. The Aphis. This insect is of the order Hemiptkra. Charac-
ters. Rostrum bent inwards. Antennae, setaceous and longer than
the thorax. Wings, four on the males; females none. Feet six.
They have generally two little horns or hairs, placed on the hinder
part of their abdomen.

Roses, and various other plants, are very subject to be overrun
with these insects, and if no means are used to extirpate them, they
will in a short time, take such entire possession of the plants, that
every part of the young wood will appear to be covered with them.
They are commonly called lice. Many kinds of flowers and exotic
plants which are kept in stoves, are very subject to be annoyed with
them.

These are easily destroyed three ways. 1. By fumigating the
house with tobacco. 2. By dusting the infected plants with fine
snuff or tobacco dust. 3. By a decoction or infusion of tobacco.

2. The Acarus, commonly called the Red Sfiider. This is of
the order Aptera. Characters. Eyes placed on the sides of the

174 THE HOT-HOUSE. CFe6.

head, remote from one another. Mouth or proboscis, formed by a
small pointed rostrum inclosed in a sheath. Antennae, shorter than
the proboscis. Feet eight. They are oviparous

This is a pest to almost every kind of plant; for this insect is not
only pernicious to most plants kept under glass, but also to many
growing in the open air.

In hot dry weather, the increase of these insects is exceedingly
rapid, and when they become numerous, they, by various means,
commit great havock on plants; for this insect, with its proboscis, per-
petually wounds the fine or capillary vessels of plants, and extracts
their nutricious juices. It also works a web about the leaves, and
over the tender buds and tops of the plants, in such a manner as
nearly to suffocate them, and prevent their vegetation.

This insect does not seem to be affected by fumigation made with
any ingredients hitherto discovered; and it is probable that the ap-
terous insects, or those without wings, are not so much affected by
fumigation as the winged tribe.

However, the mixtures recommended for destroying the insects
on the Pine-apple, will have the same effect on this. Plants greatly
infested, and growing in pots, when their tops are not very large,
may with great facility be dipped in a convenient vessel filled with
those mixtures: the top of the plant need only remain a short time
therein, and it should then be placed in a shady place, to prevent its
drying too rapidly.

These insects very frequently reside on the under side of the
leaves, and, when very numerous, they work so thick a web there-
on, that, it sometimes prevents the mixture from entering into cer-
tain hollow parts of the leaves, by which means a few escape
unhurt; in which case it will be proper for the plants to undergo
the same operation the succeeding afternoon, which will most
assuredly destroy all that escaped before.

Large or climbing plants, when their leaves are large, as for
instance the vine^ must be dressed with the mixture by means of a
sfiunge: this has the appearance of a tedious operation; but in a
dark day when the house is not very warm, a person will make
considerable progress therein, in the course of a few hours.

The keeping of the house in a moist state, by watering the walks
and flues late in an evening, and the frequent sprinkling of the plants
with water, contributes to retard the progress of these insects,
which are very impatient of much moisture. This reduces them
to a temporary state of inaction but will not destroy them.

3. The Thrips. Order Hemiptera. Characters. Rostrum,
small and obscure. Antennae, as long as the thorax. Body slender,
of an equal thickness in its whole length. Abdomen reflexible,
being generally bent upwards. Wings four, incumbent on the
back of the insect, narrow in proportion to their length, and cross
one another at some distance from their base. Feet six, the tarsus
of each foot having only two articulations.

This is also a very pernicious species of insect, and is very com'
mon in Hot-houses, as well as upon plants in the open air; it i§ very
minute, so much so as to be scarely perceptible, generally conceal-

Feb.] the HOT-HOUSE. I75

ing itself along the veins of the leaves, from whence it skips with
great agility on being touched. It is a great enemy to the Vine
while the leaves are young and tender, whether ihey grow in the
open air or under glass. The Cape jasmine, as well as many other
plants, often fall a prey to these minute insects. ^

These may be destroyed by the same methods as the Afihis.

4. The Oniscus, or Wood-louse. This belongs to the order Ap-
TEUA. Charactern — Antennae, setaceous and bent-mouth, furnished
with two palpi. Head, intimately joined with the thorax. Body,
oval- form, composed of several crustaceous plates. Feet fourteen.
They change their skin like many other apterous insects.

These are very common in the bark-pits, as well as in woods,
houses, gardens, Sec. but are seldom destructive, except to young
seedling plants, on their first appearance above ground. This, how-
ever, may be prevented by dusting the plants, whilst in that state,
with fine snuff or tobacco dust.

5. The Formica, or Ant. This insect is so universally known
as to render a description unnecessary.

These are often exceedingly numerous in Hot-houses, and espe-
cially where the Afihides and Coccus hesfieridum abound; for there
is a sweet glutinous matter which issues from these insects (being
either their excrements, or produced by them from some other cause)
that seems to be the principal incitement that draws the ant thither.

The ant may be destroyed with great facility by setting pots con-
taining honey and water, in the same manner as is practised for
catching wasps, &c.

6. The Coccus hesperidum, or Brown Turtle Insect^ already-
described, is not an enemy only to the Pine-apple plant, but also to
many others both in the Hot-house and Green-house; therefore, I
am induced to take notice of it again.

This insect may be destroyed, whilst young, by fumigation: there-
fore, where that operation is frequent, they are rarely to be met
with.

Of Fmmgating the House.

The house may be fumigated either by means of bellows invented
for that purpose, or by that of a smoking-pot. The most eligible
seasons for this business, are the spring and autumn, when, if ne-
cessity requires, it should be repeated every eight or ten days, till
the proper eflFect is produced. But it may be done at any period,
except when there are ripe fruit in the house, as then it would give
them a smoky flavour.

Fumigation is best performed late in an afternoon or evening,
and proves most efficacious when the weather is moist and calm;
for the smoke is retained much longer in the house when the air is
still, and the cavities of the roof, particularly those between the
squares of glass, filled with moisture.

The Aphides may be destroyed with a gentle fumigation; but
the Thrifis and Coccus hesfieridum require a smoke so strong, that a
person cannot distinguish an object farther than at the distance of
five feet.

176

THE HOT-HOUSE.

[Feb.

When a Hot-house is greatly infested, either with the Afihides or
Thri/is, the fumigations should be repeated every third or fourth
night, for three or four times successively. The reason and neces-
sity of these repetitions proceed from a probability that the smoke
cannot affect the insect in the egg, and perhaps it may not have
sufficient power over them in other of their states; therefore a fresh
brood may naturally be expected in a few days.

Care of the Pines.

Many of the Pine plants will novv appear set for fruiting, which
may be distinguished by the short leaves in their centres; from
that time they should be moderately watered, and the house kept
pretty warm; for when plants are kept cold at the time of forming
their fruit, it generally causes many of them to be crooked,
imperfect and mis-shapen. Therefore, under such circumstances,
never let the heat fall lower than 55° of Fahrenheit, nor rise higher
by fire-heaty than 62": a little air should, however, be admitted,
whenever the weather permits, and especially, on sunny warm days,
when the heat rises to above seventy degrees. But in no case, nor
under any circumstances, let the heat of the house fall below 52°, if
possible.

As some persons may be furnished with Reaumur's^ and not with
Fahrenheit's thermometer, it may be of use to give a comparative
table of their scales, as well as the rules by which one can be con-
verted into the other; observing, that 32<> of the latter, being the
freezing point, is equal to 0 (or zero) of the former.

Reaumur's.

Fahrenheit's.

Reaumur's.

Fahrenheit's

Degrees 16

68

Degrees 33

106,2

15

65,8

32

104

14

63,5

31

101,7

13

61,2

30

99,5

12

59

29

97,2

11

56,8

28

95

10

54,8

27

92,7

9

52,5

25

90,5

8

50

25

88,2

7

47,7

24

86

6

45,5

23

83,8

5

43,3

22

81,5

4

41

21

79,2

3

38,6

20

77

2

36,5

19

74,7

1

34,2

18

72,5

0

32

17

70,3

To convert the uegrees of Reaumur into those of Fahrenheit.
Multiply the degrees of Reaumur by 9, and divide the product by 4;
to the quotient add 32, and the amount will be those of Fahrenheit.

Feb.] the HOT-HOUSE. I77

To convert the degrees of Fahrenheit into those of Reaumur.
Subtract 32 from the degrees of Fahrenheit; multiply the remain-
der by 4; divide the product by 9, and the quotient will be those of
Reaumur.

Your fires must be continued every evening and night, being
careful in very severe weather to keep them burning and suffi-
ciently supplied with fuel, till so late a period as there can be no
danger of the house becoming cold before morning. Indeed, unless
your house is well constructed, there may be some severe weather
in which it would be necessary to keep up the fires all night.
There have been instances of careless persons entrusted with this
v/ork, who, in order to get to bed at an early hour, or to some idle
frolic, have put down large and violent fires, which never fail to
do injury to the plants, and sometimes to burst the flues: this prac-
tice is to be carefully avoided, as a moderate and steady heat is what
always will insure the best success.

The fires are to be renewed very early in the morning, and con-
tinued until the heat of the sun is sufficient to promote a comforting
warmth in the house; and in very cold and dark weather, it will be
necessary to keep them burning all day.

It is very advisable, and indeed indispensable, for the health of the
plants, to sprinkle the flues and floor occasionally with water, in or-
der to restore the parched air of the house to its atmospheric qua-
lity: this will not only render great service to the plants, but tend 10
weaken the power of destructive insects; for these do not like a
moist air, manifested by their greater increase in dry stoves, than
in others.

A proper degree of beat must now be preserved in the bark -bed,
for nothing can contribute so much to the free growth of the young
fruit, as a brisk bottom-heat: if the roots have not this advantage,
it is impossible to make the fruit swell to any tolerable size.

Therefore, where the bark-bed was not stirred up the former
month, to renew the fermentation, and revive the declined heat, it
should now be done; for the heat will consequently now begin to be
very faint, and by stirring up the bark almost to the bottom, it will
bring on a fresh fermentation therein; by which means, the bed
will again recover a lively growing heat, the good effect of which,
will soon appear both in the plants and fruit, provided it be done in
due time; but if the heat is greatly decreased, and the bark decayed,
you may augment it at the same time with about one third or fourth
part of new tan, otherwise defer it till next month, which see.

However, where the work of forking up the bark-bed appears
necessary at this time, agreeable to the observations above mentioned,
it should, if possible, be done in the first week in the month; for
if it is delayed much longer, the plants and fruit will certainly, for
want of a due proportion of heat, be much checked in their growth.
Observe, in the first place, to take all the pots out of the bed; then
begin at one end, and open a kind of trench, by taking out some of
the bark and carrying it to the other; this done, begin at said
trench, and with a fork, dig and work up the bark, quite to the bot-
tom, taking care to break the cakes or lumps; mix all the parts well

Z

178 THE HOT -HOUSE. [Feb.

together, and fill up at last, with that taken out of the first opening.
Having finished, let ihe top be made level, and immediately plunge
the pots again to their rims as before. This work is so very neces-
sary, that it should not on any consideration be omitted at the time
above mentioned; that is to say, if the bark has much declined in
its heat.

The bed being thus treated, it will soon renew its heat, and
retain the same well for six weeks, or tbereahouis.

At the expiration of that period, or sometime in March or begin-
ning of April, the bark will require to be stirred up again, and
refreshed with about one third, or at least one fourth part of new
tan; after this it will retain a proper degree of heat, till the fruit
are ripe — See March and Afiril.

The bark-bed wherein the succession pine-plants are plunged,
should also be examined now with good attention; and if the heat
is found to be much decreased, the bed should be treated in the
manner above directed.

Watering the Pines.

The fruiting pine-apple plants should now have moderate refresh-
ments of water, provided there be a good heat in the bark-bed: and
when there is a proper degree of that and moderate moisture
together, it will make the young fruit swell very fast.

But in watering these plants, be careful to give it moderately at
each time. The ru^e is this: let the earth, in the pots which contain
the plants, be kept just a little moist in a middling degree; and if
this is observed, the plants and fruit will thrive.

The succession pine-plants, that is those which are to fruit next
year, must also be refreshed now and then with water; in v/alering
these, let the same rule be observed as just mentioned above.

Remember also to give water at times to the younger succession
Pines, consisting of the last year's crowns and suckers.

In watering the Pine-plants in general, you should still be cau-
tious to let none of it, or but as little as possible, fall into the centre
of fhe plants, where, being apt to lodge, it would prove detrimental,
in some degree, to these exotics, at this season.

Of the various kinds of Plants in the Hot-house.

In some hot-houses, there are kept many other sorts of curious
exotics, besides the Pines, both of the succulent and woody kinds,
&c. and as they are all tender, being from the hottest parts of the
world, the same degrees of heat, as recommended for tiie pine, will,
generally speaking, be suitable for them: however, there are some
of those, which to do theuj the greatest possible justice, that re-
quire a somewhat greater degree of heat than the Pine-apple, and
others not quite so much; therefore, when there is the convenience
of different apartments in a long range of hot-houses, all may be
suited according to their respective necessities.

Feb.] the HOT-HOUSE. I79

Let it be observed, that all tender plants, which are kept in pots»
the succulent tribe excepted, thrive much better when plunged in the
bark-bed; but the tallest-growing kinds must be planted in a border
of suitable earth, near the back wall, to give them the greater scope
for extending their heads.

All these kinds of plants should be kept remarkably clean from
dust, or any sort of filth that may gather upon their stems, shoots,
or leaves; and such ought always to be washed off as soon as it ap-
pears. There is nothing more necessary than cleanliness to pre-
serve the health of plants; and where foulness is permitted upon
any of them, it will not only close up those small pores which are
so necessary to the growth of all vegetables, but will also render the
whole plant unhealthy; which seldom fails to invite insects, and to
increase them prodigiously in the house.

These plants must also be kept very free from decayed leaves;
that is, when any such appear, let them be immediately taken off.

Water should also be given to all these plants at times; some
will require but very little and seldom, and others will need it pretty
often. Therefore, let good care be taken that every plant, accord-
ing to its nature, be properly supplied with that article; but be sure
never to give any sort too much at a time; and in giving it, always
make a distinction between the succulent, the herbaceous, and the
woody kinds.

The latter will need water oftener, and more at a time, than either
of the former, for some of those require very little moisture about
their roots, and too much would rot the plants.

Let the woody kinds in general be moderately watered, not less
than once or twice a week; and it will be serviceable to sprinkle
water sometimes all over the head or branches of these plants,
especially the coffee-trees, the pimento, or all-spice, and all the ten-
Mimosas.

But the succulent kinds, such as the Cactuses, Mesembryanthe-
mums. Aloes, Euphorbias and the like, must not be watered of-
tener than once a week.

In watering these kinds let care be taken to give but little at each
time, just sufficient to reach the bottom roots.

It will be an advantage to all these tender plants, both of the
woody, succulent, and other kinds, when the surface-earth in the
pots, casually crusts or binds, to stir and loosen it lightly a small
depth.

Jldmit air.

Fresh air should now be admitted to the pines, and other plants-
in the hot-house, at all times when the weather will permit.

But this however, must only be done at this season, when the
sun shines warm, and the air is quite calm and clear: then it will be
proper to slide some of the glasses open a little way, in the warmest
time of the day, particularly the root-lights, shutting all close if the
weather changes cold and cloudy, and always in proper time in the
afternoon.

180 I'Hli HOT-HOUSE. [Feb.

The best time of the day for the admission of fresh air, is from
about twelve to one, two, or three o'clock; but for the time of open-
ing or shutting the glasses, let the weather be the guide.

Of Kidney-beans in the Hot-house.

Now plant some more kidney-beans, of the early white, cream-
coloured, yellow, or speckled dwarfs, 8cc. in pots or boxes, and
place them in the hot-house to succeed those planted last month;
or if none was then planted, this is a very successful time, superior
to the former month, for planting a good hot-house crop; and manag-
ed as directed in January^ page 105.

Do not forget to refresh with water, those kidney-beans which
were planted last month; they will require it two or three times a
week: give also necessary waterings to the young beans advancing
for successive crops.

Of blowing Roses and other Plants early.

You may now, in the beginning of this month, set pots of roses,
and honeysuckles. Sec. in the hot-house; or pots of bulbous roots,
carnations, pinks, and double sweet-williams, or of any other desira-
ble flowering plants, either of the shrub or herbaceous kinds, which
you desire, by way of curiosity, to bring to an early bloom, supply-
ing them, when in growth, with plenty of water.

Likewise, about the middle and end of the month, you may in-
troduce more of the same sort of flowering-plants to produce flow-
ers in regular succession.

You may also introduce pots sown with seeds, of any desirable
annuals, of moderate growth, to flower early, such as mignonette,
balsams, ten-weeks stock, Sec. Sec.

Of Cucumbers in the Hot-house.

Where it is desired to raise early cucumbers in the hot-house,
some seed may now be sown as directed last month, or young plants
planted therein, from any common hot-bed. See Hot-house for
January.

Early Strawberries.

You may now introduce into the hot- house, pots of the scarlet
and alpine strawberries, either to succeed those of last month, or as
a first introduction. Let them be two years old bearing plants;
place them near the glasses, or plunge them in the bark-bed to for-
ward them earlier, giving proper supplies of water.

If sbme fresh plants are taken into the hot-house every three
weeks, you may obtain a constant supply of early fruit, till those in
the open ground ripen.

Or pots of strawberry plants kept in moderate dung hot-beds
to forward them, may be removed in successive order into the hot-
house; they will produce a supply of early fruit in regular suc-
cesssion.

181

MARCH.

THE KITCHEN-GARDEN.

THE weather in this month, both in the middle and eastern
states, is very unsettled; sometimes it proves dry and frosty;
sometimes tolerably -vrarm and comfortable; at other times cold
and wet, with storms of strong winds, hail, snow and rain, which
makes a diligent attendance on the hot-beds absolutely necessary;
otherwise, they often miscarry, and all the preceding trouble and
expence is lost.

Let me here observe, that snow ought never to be suffered to re-
main, but as short a time as possible, either on the hot-bed lights,
covers, or about the beds; for the cold produced thereby, often pe-
netrates through a slight covering, especially if there is not
a strong bottom heat, and produces a kind of hoar-frost in the
inside of the frame, which seldom fails to do considerable injury;
and likewise, when suffered to lodge round the beds, it causes a
sudden decline of the heat.

Care of early Cucumbers and Melons.

Examine the state of the cucumber and melon hot-beds, and see
if they are of a proper degree of heat, so as to preserve the plants in
a state of free growth.

You must let the heat be lively, but moderate, by which means
the ridged-out plants of good growth will show fruit plentifully, and
these will swell freely, and grow to a handsome size.

If you find the heat decHned, apply a lining of fresh horse-dung,
as directed in January , pa^e 17, to which, I refer you for general
instructions on this subject.

Let the plants have fresh air every day, by raising the upper end
of the glasses, from about half an inch, to one or two inches in
height, in proportion to the heat of the bed, and warmness of the
weather; always more freely in sunny, calm, mild days, than when
cloudy or a sharp external air; and when the weather changes
colder, diminish the admission of air, or shut down the glasses; and
always shut close in proper time towards evening, about three or
four o'clock, &c. according to the temperature of the weather.

Refresh them now and then with water; let this be given very
moderately, and in a mild sunny day; the best time for doing this is
from ten to two o'clock.

Cover the glasses with mats every afternoon, as soon as the sun
is off them; or, if a dark day, and the weather is severe, at such
period as you may think necessary, according to the degree of heat
or cold that may be prevalent at the lime; and uncover in the

182 THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [March.

morning, if a sunny day, so soon as it shines on the beds, or, if
otherwise, as early as may be consistent with the safety of the
plants; for their being too much debarred from the light, causes
them to become discolured and weakly.

As the early plants, raised last month, will have now advanced
considerably into fruitful runners, and show fruit abundantly, espe-
cially cucumbers; let the runners or vines be trained out regularly
along the surface of the bed at equal distances, and peg them down
neatly with small hooked sticks. At this early season, it will be of
much utility to impregnate the young fruit of cucumbers with the
farina of male blossoms. The flowers of cucumbers and melons
are male and female, separate, on the same plant, and the females
produce the fruit; the males are often erroneously called false
blossoms, and many persons, in consequence of that notion, pull
them off; but they are so far trom being false blossoms, that they arc
by nature designed to impregnate the female flowers, to render them
fruitful; for the antherae in the centre of the male blossom, being
furnished with a fine powder, which being dispersed on the stigma
in the centre of the female, the fecundation Is effected, and the fruit
in a day or two after will begin to swell, and vyhich, in cucumbers,
will generally, in about a fortnight, or within a few days under or
over, according to the state of growth of the plants, be arrived to
a proper size for cutting or gathering for the table, in young green
fruit, three or four, to five or six inches long or more; so that with-
out the assistance of the male blossom, the females having the em-
bryo fruit at their base, wither and decay, and the infant fruit turns
yellow and drops off.

Therefore it is of importance to preserve a sufficiency of the
male flowers, for the purpose of impregnating the females, and in
the early culture of cucumbers, 8cc. it is eligible to carry some of
the males to the female flowers, observing for this purpose, to
detach some new expanded male blossoms with the stalk to each,
and holding the stalk between the finger and thumb, and pulling off
the petal or flower leaf surrounding the male organ: then with the
remaining antherse, or central part, touch the stigma in the centre
of the female, twirling it about, so as some of the farina or male
powder of the antherse may adhere thereto; a little of which being
sufficient to effect the impregnation.

This operation is essentially necessary to be performed by hand,
to early plants that are shut up in frames, before the lights or
glasses can be admitted sufficiently open to give free access to a
large current of air; or flying insects, such as bees, &c. all of which
assist in conveying the farina of the male blossoms to the females, as
is evident in plants exposed to the open air.

The above operation of fecundating, or, as the gardeners term it,
setting the fruit, should be performed the same day the flowers
open, and are fully expanded; which is the most essential period of
of their generative effect.

The female or fruit-bearing flowers are readily distinguished at
sight from the males; the former having always the embryo fruit
placed immediately under the base of the flower; or, in other words.

March.j the kitchen-garden. 1S3

the embryo-fruit issues forth with the flower-bud on its top, visible
from its first eruption from the stem of the plant; but the male
blossom is placed immediately on the top of its foot-stalk without
any appearance of fruit under its base.

The same operation of impregnating or setting the fruit, as above,
may also be practised on melons; which will have the same effect
as in cucumbers; but as melons are only eatable when ripe, it will
be five or six weeks longer, before they attain full size and mature
ripeness. ^'

Sow Cucumber and Melon Seed.

Sow in the above, or any new-made hot-beds, the seeds of cucum-
bers and melons, at the beginning, and also about the middle, and
towards the latter end of this month, to have a supply of young
plants in readiness, either to plant into new beds, or to supply the
place of ^uch plants as may fail.

The sorts of cucumbers are, the early short prickly, long green
prickly, white prickly, long green Turkey, long white Turkey, the
Smyrna, and the Roman.

But the first two sorts are commonly cultivated for the early and
general crop, the short prickly being the earliest, and is therefore
often sown for the first crop in the frames; but the long green
prickly is the best to sow for a main crop, either for the frames or
hand-glasses, or in the natural ground; it being both a plentiful
bearer in long continuance, and the fruit attains the most handsome
regular growth, six or eight, to ten or twelve inches in length.

Making new Hot-beds to transplant Cucumbers, Sfc.

Make hot beds the beginning of this month, to plant the cucum-
ber or melon plants upon, which were sown the latter end of January,
or any time in February; make the beds very substantial, fully
three feet and a half or four feet high, having the dung previously
prepared, as directed in January, page 13, which will prevent a
violent heat taking place after its being made; let the cucumber or
melon plants be planted therein, and managed as directed in that
month and in February.

There are many gardeners, and others, who cannot conveniently
procure dung to begin to make hot-beds for cucumbers or melons
at an early season. Where that is the case, it is not too late to
begin now; and a hot-bed may be made the beginning or any time
of the month, and the seeds of cucumbers and melons sown
therein; the cucumbers from this sowing will be fit to cut towards
the end of April, be in full bearing the beginning of May, and will
continue fruiting a long time. The melons will come to perfection,
in June and July.

Cucumbers and Melons for Bell or Hand-glasses.

About the eighteenth or twentieth, or any time towards the end
of this month, is the time to begin to sow the cucumbers and melons
which are to be planted under hand or bell-glasses.

1^4 'fHE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [March.

They may be sown in any of the cucumber hot-beds now at
work; or if not convenient, or there are no such beds made, make a
hot-bed for that purpose, for a one, two or three light frame,
according to the quantity of plants required; sow the seed, and
manage the beds as directed in the two former months. The plants
will be ready for ridging out, by the middle, or towards the end of
next month; the cucumbers will be in bearing the latter end of May,
and the melons in July.

Cauliflowers.

Where cauliflower plants were raised from seeds sown last
month, they should as soon in this, as they have arrived to the height
of three or four inches, be pricked into a new slight hot-bed made
for that purpose, at the distance of three inches every way, and ma-
naged as directed in February, page 127.

By pricking out the plants on a little bottom heat, it will forward
them considerably, and by thus transplanting, they will become
strong and well furnished with roots, and consequently will succeed
much better when planted out, than if suffered to remain in the seed
bed.

The autumn sown plants, and those which you» had transplanted
last month, from the January sowing, must now have plenty of air,
and this in proportion as the season advances, and the weather
grows warm; in order to harden them for bearing the open air, when
planted out where intended for flowering; which cannot be done
with safety, in the middle states, before the last week in this month,
or rather the first in April; nor in the eastern states, before the se-
cond week or middle of that month, unless you have hand-glasses to
cover them, in which case they maybe planted out any time that the
ground is in good condition, after the middle of March.

The latter method I would recommend, provided the plants are
large, the spring early, and that you have the convenience of hand-
glasses, but not otherwise.

Though at this early period, the ground best adapted for produc-
ing good cauliflowers, is not always in a proper state for cultivation,
which ought to be a principal consideration, either in the planting or
sowing of any crops whatever; and never departed from, should the
season prove ever so late.

Cauliflower seed may be sown, the beginning of this month, as
directed in January, page 20, which, if well attended to and judi-
ciously managed, and that the great summer heats should not set in
at an early period, will head tolerably well; but, if these circum-
stances do not follow, a great number of them will not flower
before late in autumn, and some not even then; such of these as do
not flower before the setting in of the winter frosts, are to be treated
as directed in the Kitchen-garden {or Mv ember, by which treatment,
they will produce tolerable good heads, and at a very acceptable
period.

You must be very particular during this month, especially when
the weather gels warm, to give your cauliflower plants plenty of air.

March.] THE KITCHEN-GARDfiN. 485

otherwise they will draw up weakly, and be good for nothing; but
at the same tinrje, do not let them be chilled, nor their vegetation
checked, by exposing them too much in cold weather, ur neglecting
to cover them carefully at night; expose them fully to the air
every mild and warm day, but not when the wind is sharp or cutting,
and raise the glasses behind in more unfavourable weather.

(Jn the judicious treatment given to these plants, during this
month, depends, in a great measure, their future success; therefore,
due and constant attention should be paid to them, agreeably to the
rules already laid down.

As the beginning, or early part of next month, will be the princi-
pal period, for planting out cauliflowers, in the middle and eastern
states; I am induced to defer the instructions for performing that
part of the business till April; observing however, that in every part
of the Union, it should be done as early in spring, as the ground
gets warm, and into a good state for vegetation, not before; for,
when that is not the case, the plants very frequently get chilled and
stunted by the coldness of the earth and air, and seldom afterwards
produce good heads.

You may sow some cauliflower seed on a warm border, towards
the latter end of the month, to produce their flowers or heads in Oc
tober, &c.

Cabbage Plants.

During the early part of this month, the cabbage plants which are
in a considerable btate of forwardness, must be well inured to the
open air, the better to prepare them for planting out as soon, after
the middle of the month, as the weather will permit. Those pro-
duced from later sowings in hot-beds, will, to do them justice, require
the same management, as directed for cauliflower plants.

Planting and sowing Cabbages.

As early in this month as you find the weather sufficiently fa-
vourable, which in the middle states is generally so, about the
fifteenth or twentieth, transplant cabbage plants of all kinds, par-
ticularly the early sorts, where they are to remain for heading; this,
in warm situations and dry ground, may be done at an earlier period,
according to circumstances.

Let them be planted in good ground enriched with dung, at two
feet and a half distance for the early York, sugar-loaf, and other
early kind; but the large late cabbage plants should be set a
yard asunder.

The above distances are to be understood of such plants, as are to
remain to grow to their full size; but such of the forward kinds, as
are to be cut while young, may be planted closer: eighteen inches to
two feet will be sufficient.

Plant out also a general crop of red cabbage plants, to head in
August, Sec. and allow them three feel every way, plant from plant.

Sow seeds of every kind of cabbage, which you wish to cultivate;
these may be sown in the open ground about the middle, or as early

3 A

186 THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [March.

in the month as the weather permits. The early, as well as the
late kinds should be sown now, in order to have a regular suc-
cession, or as substitutes in default of early plants, or for a
general summer crop. The early Symrna, early York, Bat-
tersea and sugar-loaf, are best adapted for this purpose: the last
kind, though not quite so early as the others, has a particular advan-
tage over them, in not being liable to burst so soon after having
arrived at perfection; and consequently may be kept a long time,
either for use or market.

Sow also a full crop of the large flat Dutch, drum-head, large
English, Savoy, and red pickling cabbages; the plants from this
sowing, will produce larger and better heads, than if sown later.

Should the season prove favoui'able, by which you can get these
seeds sown early in the month, it will be very proper to sow som&
more of each kind, about the end, for succession plants.

Some people never think of sowing Savoys, till late in spring;
this is a great mistake, for the early sown plants will always produce
larger and better cabbaged heads than the late.

In sowing the different sorts of cahbage-seeds, never let them be
sown under the shade of trees, hedges, very /ligh fences, or build-
ings; for in such situations, the plants are drawn up weak and
long-shanked, and are more liable to be destroyed by vermin than
in open exposures.

Sowing Peas.

As early in this month as possible, sow a full crop of peas; the
kinds most proper for this sowing, are the early-frame and early
Golden and Charlelon hot spurs: sow also, at the same time, some
of the glory of England, large marrowfat, white rouncival, Spanish
morrotto, or large Imperial kinds; these, or any of the late sorts,
being now sown, will regularly succeed the early crops.

Sow peas from this forward, once a fortnight or three weeks, to
keep up a regular supply for the table, young and in good condition.
Or, it will be a good rule, when the plants of a former sowing are
up, to sow another crop of the same sort for succession.

AH the sorts of peas, except those which are intended for the
first or early crops, which may be sown on south or warm borders,
should be sowed in open situations, and by no means near low or
spreading trees.

At this season, and from hence forward, let the early kinds be
planted in drills, three feet and a half asunder; the larger growing
sorts four feet, and the largest, such as the marrowfat, green, white,
and grey rouncivals, Sec. five feet, giving them rods or sticks in pro-
portion to their respective growths, by which means you will be
certain of abundant crops.

It will not be advisable to sow any of the above kinds while the
ground is tough and wet, always observing to have your ground in
good working condition, before you sow these or any other crops;
for, if otherwise, they cannot receive much benefit, but may consi-
derable injury; observing, at the same time, that peas do not thrive
in a heavy or clay soil.

March.] THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. 187

The depth of covering which they require, is from one to two
inches, according as the ground may be either of a light or heavy
nature, or in a dry or wet state at the time of sowing.

Earthing and sticking Peas,

Towards the latter end of the month, the early sown peas will be
advancing in growth, and must have earth drawn to their stems as
they progress, which will greatly strengthen them and encourage
their growth.

As to sticking peas, always be careful to have this done when they
are about six inches high; for, if they fall to one side or the other,
they with difficulty can recover their erect posture; and if they are
double sticked, the better; that is, place a range of sticks on the one
side, all in a regular declining manner, and another on the other
side of the row declining in an opposite direction to the former, by
which, none can fall out on either side. I cannot too much impress
the necessity of rodding well; for on this, in great measure, de-
pends the abundance of your crops.

Planting the large Windsor Beans, and other varieties of the
same species.

As early in this month as possible, plant a full crop of Windsor
beans, and also of any of the other varieties which you esteem; the
Mazagan and Lisbon are the earliest, the white-blossom bean is very
delicious, and boils much greener than any other kind; but the
green Genoa, bears the heat of our climates better than either of the
others, and therefore is the most suitable for late crops. The
long-podded bean is very good, and bears well; but the Windsor,
Sandwich, Toker, and broad Spanish kinds, on account of their
great size and sweetness, are more esteemed for blanching than
any other. The dwarf-cluster bean is a great bearer, never grows
above a foot or fourteen inches high, and may be planted in rows
either in beds or borders, the rows to be about two feet asunder;
and as this kind branches out considerably from the root, the beans
must be planted in single rows, and six inches distant from one
another.

I have again to remark, that it is from the early planted of these
kinds, that much produce may be expected; for when overtaken by
the summer heat, whilst in blossom, these drop off permaturely;
consequently, the crops are poor and scanty.

Continue planting these kinds once every ten days, till the end of
this month or beginning of next; and as the early crops advance,
draw some earth up to their stems, as directed for peas.

When beans are desired at as early a period as possible, you may
force some of the early Mazagan kind, in any of your forcing depart-
ments, observing, when the plants are in full blossom, to nip off
their tops, which will cause their fruit to set and ripen sooner, than
if left to take their natural course.

188 THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [March.

Or you may, about the beginning of the month, plant a quantity
of them close together in a hot-bed, to be defended with a frame and
glasses, or with mats. Sec. and when thus forwarded for two or three
weeks, plant them into the open ground; observing to give them
plenty of air whilst in the hot-bed, and when they have one or two
inches growth therein, to plant them into some warm border, in
rows two feet and a half, or a yard asunder.

For further particulars, and the method of planting all the kinds,
see February^ page 135.

Sowing and transplanting Lettuces.

As early in this month as possible, prepare a warm south border,
and sow thereon, very thick, some of the early curled and grand ad-
miral lettuces; also some of the common cabbage lettuce, in order
to have them fit for cutting, with other small sallading, at an early
period, and to succeed such as you have forwarded in frames: let
the ground be dry and light, and the seed either raked in or covered
very slightly.

Towards the middle of the month, if the weather be mild and set-
tled, you may sow in borders, beds, or any open compartments of
ground, different sorts of lettuce-seed, such as the white, green,
spotted, and Egyptian cos, grand admiral, white Silicia, India, ten-
nis-ball, New-Zealand, Mogul, white and brown Dutch, &c. these
are all most excellent sorts for this sowing, where variety of supe-
rior kinds are wanted.

Every two weeks it will be necessary to sow other successional
crops, so as to have a regular and constant supply either for market
or family use.

The different sorts should generally be sown separate, and in
digging the ground, let the earth be well pulverized. Sow the seed
on the surface, and rake them in lightly, taking care not to draw
the earth in heaps.

Or some of the cos kinds particularly, may be sown thinly among
the crops of carrots, parsncps, leeks, &c. some for transplanting,
and others to remain for full growth.

In sowing lettuce, it is of much importance to have good sorts,
and such as will not run to seed before they attain full growth;
these arc not commonly to be met with, and are worth procuring.

As soon in this month, as the weather gets mild and tolerably-
warm, transplant some of the lettuce plants from the beds, or bor-
ders, where ihcy have stood all winter, provided they stand loo close.
In doing this, oljserve lo draw the plants out regularly, and let the
strongest remain for heading at about ten inches distance; then
loosen the surface of the earth between them, and clear away all
decayed leaves and liuer; after which, add a little fresh earth, which
will give the plants new vigour, and considerably enlarge their
growth.

Previously to planting out into the open borders, any plants
raised in hot-beds from the early spring sowings, you must be very

March.] THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. Igg

particular to inure them to the open air so that when transplanted,
they may not receive a great check, by too sudden a transition.

It will be of considerable service to these plants, where trans-
planted into the borders at this season, to cover them at night with
mats or other light coverings, which are to be taken off early in the
morning.

Should it happen, that you have no lettuce plants in a state of
forwardness for early sallading, some may be now sown in a hot-bed,
to forward for that purpose. j

Radishes.

Sow more seed, to raise a supply of radishes to succeed those sown
last nionih.

There should be some both of the salmon and short-top kinds,
sown at three different times this month; that is, at the beginning,
middle, and latter end; by which means there will be a due succes-
sion of young radishes for the table. Let this seed be sown now, in
an open compartment, observing the same method as in February^
page 131.

Thin the early crops of radishes, where the plants stand too close;
pull up the worst, and leave the others about two inches apart; clear
them from weeds of all kinds, and as they advance in growth thin
them by degaees, by drawing them for the table.

In dry open weather, let the early crops in frames, &c. be mode-
rately watered at intervals, to forward them in a free swelling state,
as well as to render them mild and crisp for eating.

A thin sprinkling of radish-seed may be sown among other ge-
neral crops at this season, which will grow freely, and being detach-
ed, will form fine large crisp roots.

Turnep-rooted Radishes.

Now sow some turnep-rooted radish; there- are two sorts, the
white and tl.e red, but the former is preferable to sow for the gene-
ral supply: it grows like a young Dutch turnep, is very mild, agreea-
ble to eat, and of early perfection.

Let the seed of both sorts be sown separately in an open space of
light ground, and rake them in evenly.

When the plants have the first central rough leaves half an inch
broad, thin them to about two inches apart.

Sowing Spinach.

Sow spinach every fortnight or three weeks, to have a regular
supply; for the plants of one sowing, in spring and summer, will
not continue fit for use longer than that time, before they run to seed.
Let the seed be of the round-leaved, or smooth-seeded kind; that be-
ing the most proper sort to sow at this season, its leaves being con-
siderably thicker and larger than the prickly-seeded spinach.

This seed should be sown thinly either in beds or borders, and

190 1'HE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [March.

generally broad cast, in which method you may sow therewith, a
little radish seed; when the seed is sown in light dry ground, tread
it over lightly, and then rake it in regularly, or you may sow it in
drills, a foot asunder, and about half an inch deep.

Let it be observed, that spinach should not, at this season, be sown
where the ground is much shaded with trees or bushes; for in such
situations, the plants would be drawn up to seed, before they arrive
to balf their growth.

Hoe or hand-weed the early crops of spinach, thinning the plants
at the same time, but particularly those sown broad cast, to three,
four, or five inches distance.

The crop of winter spinach, which was sown last autumn, will,
towards the end of the month, be advancing in good perfection for
use, and should be kept clear from weeds, and the earth between
the plants stirred with a hoe; and in gathering the plants for use,
if they stand close, should thin them out clean by the roots; but if
they already stand at wide distance, only crop the large outer leaves
as wanted, till they begin to run, then cut them clean up to the bot-
tom.

Carrots and Parsneps.

Any time, after the middle of this month, that the ground is in
good condition, you may sow carrots and parsneps, for a full crop,
particularly the latter; and also, a sufficient early crop of the for-
mer.

A spot of light deep loam, inclining a little to sand, and in an open
situation, should be chosen for these crops; for their roots will
thrive best and grow largest in such.

The ground should be trenched, one good spade deep at least, ob-
serving in the digging to take but thin spits, and to break all the
lumps, that the roots may have full liberty to run down long and
straight; for if the earth is not well divided and separated, the roots
are apt to grow both short and forked. Rake the ground well after
you, as you proceed in the digging.

Then form the ground into four feet wide beds, push the earth off
the surface with the back of the rake, half an inch deep, or better,
into the alleys; sow the seed evenly over the beds, and with a spade
or shovel cast the loose earth from the alleys over them, about half
an inch deep; after which, rake the surface lightly, and the work is
finished.

Previous to sowing carrot-seed, you should rub it well between
your hands, mixed with some dry sand, to cause it to separate
freely.

Or these seeds may be sown thin in drills, distant from each other
from eight to ten inches; when they are about three inches high, thin
the parsneps to four and the carrots to three inches, plant from plant
in the rows.

Some people sow the seeds broad-cast in beds, tread them in, and
then rake the ground; but this method should never be practised,
where the soil is stiff, inclinable to wet, or apt to bind. You may
sow with these crops, a few radish and lettuce seeds; of the latter

March.] THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. 191

any of the cos kinds, are most suitable for this purpose, they not
being subject to spread, like the heading sorts.

Small Sallading.

Small sallading, such as cresses, mustard, radish, rape, and tur-
nep, &c. should, when a constant supply is wanted, be sown onc^
week or fortnight, in a warm border; observing to draw some flat
shallow drills, three inches asunder; sow the seeds therein, each
sort separate, and cover them lightly with fine earth.

For the particular method of sowing and treating these seeds, see
the work of last month, page 126.

If these young herbs, or any other of your early advancing crops,
such as peas, beans, &c. are attacked with a hoar frost appearing on
them in the morning, and that a sunny day is likely to follow, let
them be watered before the sun shines on them, with spring or
pump water, to wash and melt it off, which will prevent their
turning black and spoiling.

Celery.

If celery was not sown last month, let some seed be sown the
beginning of this, to plant out in May, &c. for an early crop; sow
some more of the same seed about the middle, or towards the latter
end, for a succession crop. The seed should be sown in a bed or
border of mellow rich earth, sowing it on the surface moderately
thick, and cover it in lightly with fine mould, not more than a
quarter of an inch; or you may rake it in with a light and even hand.
Water the bed frequently in dry weather.

Let it be observed, that there are two sorts of celery; one known
by the name of Italian or upright -celery; the other called celeriac,
or turnep-rooted celery. The first is that which is commonly cul-
tivated for the general crops, and of which there are several varie-
ties, viz. common upright celery with hollow stalks, sol id- stalked cele-
ry; red-stalked solid celery. Sec. either of which being raised from
seed sown as above, is afterwards planted in trenches for blanching
their stalks, which are the principal useful parts; but the celeriac is
generally cultivated for its swelling bottom part; and being planted
either on level ground, or in shallow drills, the roots of it swell like
a turnep. See Jfiril^ May, June, &c.

Broccoli.

Sow broccoli for early crops, 8cc. to come in for use in October,
November, and December, &.c.

Choose seed of the early purple, and some of the cauliflower
Ijroccoli; sow a little of each kind about the middle, or latter end of
the month, in an open bed of rich earth, and rake them in: when the
plants come up, manage them as directed in May, Ju7ie, and July.

492 THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [Mahck.

Sowing Borecole, or curled Kale.

Towards the end of this month, you may sow a first crop of bore-
cole, for autumn service.

There are two principal sorts, the green and the brown; both
very hardy plants, with tall stems, and full heads of thick fimbriate
corled leaves, not cabbaging, and are desirable open greens for
winter, &c.

Let this seed be sown in an open exposure, distant from trees and
close fences, as in such situations they are apt to draw up too fast,
with long weak stalks; sow it broad-cast, and rake it in evenly: for
other particulars, see the succeeding months.

Borecole is extremely valuable for winter and spring greens,
where the winter frost is not too powerful for it, particularly in all
the southern states; it is the most hardy of the cabbage tribe, and
in mild winters will stand tolerably well in the middle states. In
the eastern states it will require to be taken up before the winter
frosts sets in with much severity, planted in trenches up to the
leaves, and covered occasionally with straw, or other light covering;
the heads may be cut off as wanted, and in spring the stems, if taken
up and planted out, will produce an abundance of most delicious
sprouts.

Of forking and dressing the Asparagus Beds.

This work should be begun about the latter end of the month;
for the purpose of digging or forking these beds, you should be
provided with a proper fork, having three shorts tines, six to eight
or nine inches long, perfectly flat, about an inch broad, and the ends
of them rounded and blunt; ho'vever, in want of such, it may be
performed with a small, short-pronged common dung-fork.

In forking the beds, be careful to loosen every part to a moderate
depth, but taking great care not to go too deep to wound the crowns
of the roots.

The above work of forking these beds is most necessary to be
done every spring, to improve and loosen the ground, and to give
free liberty for the buds to shoot up; also to give easy access to the
sun, air, and showers of rain.

The beds being forked, they must afterwards be raked even; ob-
serving, if you do not rake them immediately after they are forked,
to defer it no longer than the first week in April, for by that time the
buds will begin to advance.

Before raking the above beds, you may scatter thereon, a few
radish and lettuce seeds, to pull up while young.

As to the method of gathering or cutting asparagus, when ad-
vanced to a proper growth for the table, it is generally most eligi-
ble, to be furnished with an asparagus knife, having a straight, nar-
row, taper blade, about six or eight inches long, and about an inch
broad at the haft, narrowing to about half an inch at the point,
which should be rounded off from the back; observing, when the

March.] THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. I93

shoots are from about two to three, or four inches high, they should
be then cut, slipping the knife down perpendicularly, close to each
shoot, and cut it off slantingly about three or four inches within the
ground, taking care not to wound any young buds coming up from
the same root; for there are always several shoots advancing there-
from in different stages of growth.

Planting' Jlsparagiis.

New plantations of asparagus may now be made, this being the
proper season to remove these plants; it may be done any time in
this month, when the weather is mild.

In making plantations of these plants, one great article to be
considered is, to make choice of a proper soil; choose the best the
garden affords; it must not be wet, nor too strong or stubborn, but
such as is moderately light and pliable, so as it will readily fall to
pieces in digging or raking, &c. and in a situation that enjoys the
full sun.

The ground where you intend to make new asparagus beds,
should have a large supply of rotten or other good dung laid thereon
several inches thick, and then regularly trenched two spades deep,
and the dung buried equally in each trench, twelve or fifteen inches
below the surface.

When this trenching is done, lay on two or three inches of very
short well-rotted manure, all over the surface, and dig the ground
over again eight or ten inches deep, mixing this top dressing, and
incorporating it well with the earth.

The ground being thus prepared, and laid level, divide it into
beds four feet and a half wide, with alleys two feet wide between
each bed.

At each corner of every bed, let a firm stake be driven into the
ground, to serve as a mark for the alleys.

Four rows of asparagus are to be planted in each bed, and ten or
twelve inches distance to be allowed between plant and plant in the
row; and let the outside rows of each bed, be eight inches from the
edge.

Next, let it be observed, that the plants for this plantation must
not be more than two years old; but most good gardeners prefer
those that are only one, which are what I would recommend and
choose to plant; as from experience I have found they generally
take root much freer, and succeed every way belter than the
former.

The following is the method of planting them:

Strain your line along the bed eight inches from the edge; then
with a spade cut out a small trench or drill close to the line, about
six inches deep, making diat side next the line nearly upright; and
when one trench is opened, plant that before you open another,
placing the plants upright ten or twelve inches distance in the row.

In planting these plants, observe that they must not be placed flat
in the bottom of the trench, but nearly upright against the back of
the trench or drill, and so that the crown of the plants may also

2B

i94 THE KTTC HEN-GARDEN. [March.

stand upright, and two or three inches below the surface of the
ground; let them be all placed an equal depth, spreading their roots
somewhat regular, against the back of the trench, and at the same
time drawing a little earth up against them with the hand as you
place them, just to fix the plants in their due position, till the row
is planted; when one row is thus finished, immediately, with a rake,
draw the earth into a drill over the plants, and then proceed to open
another drill or trench, as before directed: plant it in the same man-
ner, and cover in the plants as above, and so on till the whole is
planted; then let the surface of the beds be raked smooth, and clear-
ed from stones.

When the plants come up, keep them always free from weeds;
but in the mean time, be cautious not to sow any early crops what-
ever among your young plantations, as is very injudiciously prac-
tised by many, for these would smother them in their growth, and
greatly retard their progress.

Let it next be observed, that it will be three years from the time
of planting, before the asparagus plants produce buds large enough
to cut for use in any general gathering; though sometimes, in rich,
good ground, and a remarkably prosperous growth in the plants
in the production of strong shoots, a few of the largest may be cut
the second spring after planting; but I would advise not to cut many,
before the third year.

A plantation of asparagus, if the beds are properly dressed every
year, as directed in the spring and autumn months, will continue to
produce good buds for ten or twelve years, or more.

In making new plantations, I have sometimes, instead of putting
in young plants, as above directed, sown the seed at once in the
beds where the plants are to remain; and as by that practice the
plants are not disturbed by a removal, they consequently cannot fail
of producing a regular crop.

The be 's being four feet and a half wide, and prepared as before
directed for the plants; mark out four lines lengthways the beds;
then along tiiese lines, at the distance of every nine or ten inches,
dot in a tew seeds, covering them about an inch deep. When the
plants have been come up some time, they must be thinned, leaving
only one of the strongest in each place; and carefully clear them from
weeds.

A plantation of asparagus, thus raised, will produce buds lit to
cut the third spring after sowing, but will be very large and fine the
fourth year.

For forcing asparagus, see February page 123.

Sowing Asparagus Seed.

This seed may be sown about the middle, or towards the latter
end of the month, on four feet wide beds, of rich earth. Sow it
tolerably thin on the surface, clap it in with the back of a spade,
cover it a little better than half an inch deep with earth out of the
alleys, and then rake the beds smooth.

March.] THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. I95

Or, it may be sown thinly in drills, six inches asunder, and
covered the same depth as above; give the beds, both before and
after the plants are up, occasional waterings, to strengthen them and
forward their growth; and they must be kept very free from weeds,
by a careful hand-weeding at different times during the summer, .

When a quantity of asparagus for forcing, is annually required,
you must act as directed in February, page 125.

Sowing Beet Seed.

You may now sow some of the different sorts of beet; the red,
for its large root, and the green and white sorts for their leaves in
soups, stewing, 8cc.

For this purpose, make choice of a piece of rich, deep ground;
lay it out into four feet wide beds, push the loose earth into the al-
leys, then sow the seed tolerably thin, and cover it with the eartl)
out of these alleys, to about three quarters of an inch deep. Or, let
drills be drawn with a hoe, near an inch deep, and a foot or a little
better asunder; drop the seeds thinly theiein, and cover them over
the same depth as above. Or, you may sow the seed on a piece of
ground, rough after being dug, and rake it well in.

Likewise, you may now sow the Mangel Wurtzel, root of
scarcity, or great German beet, for its large leaves to boil as spin-
ach, its thick fleshy leaf-stalks, to dress like asparagus, and its
roots for boiling, before they become of a very large size. The leaves
and roots are excellent food for cattle; producing, during summer,
an uncommon abundance of foliage; the outside leaves, for this pur-
pose, may be stripped off every eight days during the season.

Sowing Onion Seed.

In order to have onions in good perfection the first year, from
seed, which can certainly be effected in the middle, but more par-
ticularly in the eastern states, you must be careful to fix upon a
suitable soil, which is a strong, light, rich loam; always avoiding
that which is subject to become parched, or bound up by heat and
drought; or that, in consequence of too large a proportion of sand,
is likely to become violently hot in summer, for this is extremely
injurious to those plants, by causing them to come to an untimely
maturity, manifested by the extraordinary perfection that onions ar-
rive to in the moderate climates of Europe, where they have not to
encounter a violent summer heat.

If this ground had been strongly manured in November, and
then thrown up into high-sloping ridges, it would be much improv-
ed and meliorated by the frost, 8cc. and could now be easily and ex-
pediously levelled for sowing.

When this is not the case, you may now give such ground a good
coat of well-rotted cow-dung, or other good rotten manure, and dig
it a full spade deep, incorporating the dung therewith, and pulver-
izing the earth as you proceed in the digging; this should not be
attempted till the ground is sufficiently dry to pulverize well and

196 THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [March.

fall to pieces under the rake; but the earlier you can get it in this
atate, and the seed sown, the larger and better onions will you
have.

There are various methods of sowing the seed; but first I will
give you the one practised by the most judicious and careful gar-
deners.

As you proceed in digging the ground, rake it well after you;
that being done, lay it out into three and a half, or lour feet wide
beds, with alleys between of about a foot wide; then with the back
of a rake, push off the light loose earth from the top of each bed,
into the alleys, one half to the one side, the other to the opposite:
this done, and being provided with good seed, sow it thereon, at the
rate of one pound for every sixteen I'ods, and with a shovel cast the
earth out of the alleys over the beds, covering the seeds evenly about
half an inch deep; then rake the beds lightly, drawing off all the
lumps into the alleys.

When the plants are up, let them be kept very clean, and free
from weeds of any kind, by a good careful hand-weeding, which is
to be repeated from time to time, as they require it; and where they
grow too close, thin them to about two inches, plant from plant, all
over the beds; by these means, you will have excellent onions for
the table the first year.

Otliers dig the ground, levelling the surface evenly after them, as
they proceed in digging without raking it, and lay it out in beds as
before; then sow the seed thereon, and rake it in; and if the earth
is light and dry, they frequently tread it in with the feet before
raking. Or the beds may be prepared as in the first instance, and
the seeds sown very thinly in drills, either of which methods will
do very well.

But when they are raised upon an extensive scale, the ground
may be cultivated by the plough, and when harrowed very fine, the
seed may be sown in drills at any convenient distance, and the inter-
vals between them kept clean by hoeing; the remainder must be
carfully hand-wed.

Sowing seed, to produce small seed onions, will answer better in
A/iril, which see. If sown in this month, they would generally grow
to too large a size for that purpose.

Of the several varieties of onion, the Strasburg is the best for a
general crop; it is a handsome bulb, generally assuming a roundish
oval shape, is of firm growth, and keeps well for winter service.

The white Spanish and silver skinned onions, are of a milder
taste, but all the varieties generally turn out very profitable crops;
the latter kinds rarely keep so well after January as the Strasburg.

The Portugal and Madeira onions are extremely fine; but they
rarely attain with us as large a size as in these countries.

The red Spanish onion is highly esteemed for pickling, on ac-
count of its deep blood-red colour, and much cukivated for that
purpose: it may also be used for any other purposes, as well as the
former kinds.

March.3 the KITCHENGARDEN. 197

Sowing Leeks.

Leek seed may be sown, and treated in every respect for the pre-
sent, as directed for onion seed.

Planting Seed Onions.

By seed onions is meant, the small bulbs produced from seed sown
last season, which should be planted out, as early in spring as it is
possible to get the ground in a good state for tillage; the southern
states, in particular, have to depend on such for a general crop, as
the summer heat is too powerful in these, and indeed in the middle
states, except the ground is peculiarly suitable, for the bulbs arriving
at a sufficient size the first year from seed.

Having prepared an open piece of strong ground, well dug and
enriched with manure, you may proceed to plant these bulbs in
rows, either by line and dibble, or by hoe; planting them not more
than half an inch over the crowns: let the drills or rows be six
inches asunder, and the onions three inches one from the other in
the rows.

But for expedition sake, especially when there are large quanti-
ties to be planted, prepare an instrument, just in form of a com-
mon hay-rake, having four round teeth or pegs, either of wood or
iron, placed in the head, at the distance of six inches from each
other, four inches long, and near an inch in diameter, close to the
head, tapering to a blunt point: this being in readiness, proceed to
mark out your ground into two feet wide beds, leaving a twelve inch
alley between each; then pull this rake along each bed from one
end to the other, pressing it down as you proceed, by which it will
make four regular drills in each, for the reception of the small
onions, which you are to plant by hand in these drills, at the dis-
tance above mentioned, and just so deep as that you can cover the
crowns, by drawing a little earth over them with the hand as you
proceed.

By the same method, you may plant these onions in beds of any
dimensions you please, either lengthwise, or across the beds.

The Jllium canadense, or tree onion, merits culture both as a
curiosity in producing the onions at the top of the stalk, as well as
for their value in domestic use, particularly for pickling, in which
they are excellent, and superior in flavour to the common kinds;
and may also be used for any other purposes that onions are.

It is perennial, and propagated by planting the bulbs in spring
or autumn, either the root-bulbs, or those produced on the top of
the stalks; the latter if planted in spring as directed for the other
kinds will produce very fine handsome sized onions of excellent
flavour.

The root-bulbs increase greatly by oft'sets, and should be taken
up once in every two or three years, when the stems decay in au-
tumn, and replanted again to produce a supply of top-bulbs.

j[98 THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [March.

Garlick, Rocambole, and Shallots.

Prepare some beds of good ground, four feet wide, in which to
plant garlick, rocambole, and shallots; of which procure some best
bulbs or roots; divide the garlick and rocambole into cloves, and
the shallots into off-sets, as they admit; plant them in rows, length-
wise the beds, eight or nine inches asunder, by six inches distance
in each row, and two or three inches deep.

They may be planted either with a dibble or in drills drawn with
a hoe.

Gives, or Chives.

Gives, a small species of onion, growing in large tufts, are use-
ful in a family in the spring, Ecc. as a substitute for young onions,
both in sallads and culinary purposes; they are propagated by slip-
ping the roots, and this is a proper time to plant them; the method
is to part or take off some slips fri m the old roots several small off-
sets together, and plant them in beds or borders about six to eight,
or nine inches distance.

In slipping or parting the above roots, observe to preserve eight,
ten, or more, of the small bulbs together in a cluster, and in that
manner to plant them.

They are to be planted with a dibble or trowel, making holes for
them at the distance above mentioned, putting one cluster of roots,
as above, in each hole, and closing the earth well about them. They
will soon take root, and increase very fast into large bunches, of
many year's duration.

Tumeps.

Sow turneps for a first early crop, about the middle, or to-
wards the latter end of this month, in an open situation, and where
the ground is light.

The proper sort to sow now is principally the Early Dutch tur-
nep, it being the best sort to sow at this season in gardens, but
especially for the first and second crops, or also occasionally for
general summer crops, in garden culture.

Scorzonera and Salsafy.

The latter end of this month you may sow scorzonera, and
salsafy; these plants are in some families much esteemed for their
roots, which are the only parts that are eaten, except the salsafy,
as explained below.

The roots run pretty deep in the ground, in the manner of car-
rots and parsneps, and are boiled or stewed, and eaten either alone
or with flesh-meat, like young carrots, he.

But the salsafy is estimable both for its roots as above, and for the
young shoots rising in the spring from the year-old plants, being
gathered while green and tender, are good to boil and eat in the
manner of asparagus.

March.] THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. I99

Dig one or more beds for each of the above, in an open situation.
Sow the seed either in shallow drills, six inches distance, and earthed
over half an inch; or sow on the surface, covered from the alleys,
and the beds ihen raked: they are all to remain where sown, and
the plants thinned in May, to from four to six inches distance.

Large-rooted Parsley.

Sow the seeds of Hamburg, or large rooted parsley; this is cul-
tivated for its large parsnep-like root: let the seeds be sown in an
open situation, either in shallow drills, or on the surface, and raked
in evenly; when the plants are two or three inches in growth, they
must be thinned to six inches distance, that the roots may have room
to swell.

Skirrets.

Skirret seed may be sown tolerably thin, on beds of good earth
and raked in; or they may be propagated by parting their roots, and
planting them at six or eight inches distance. The fleshy tubers of
these roots, are considered very delicious.

Sowing Parsley.

Parsley seed may be sown in a single drill along the edge of the
quarters, or borders of the garden: it will make a useful and also a
neat edging, if not suffered to grow rank, especially the curled pars-
ley; or if large supplies are wanted for market, it may be sown in
continued rows nine inches asunder, or upon the general surface,
trod down, and raked in.

Solving Chervil and Coriander.

Sow chervil and coriander, for soups and sallads. Sec; draw shal-
low drills for these seeds eight or nine inches asunder: sow each
sort separate, and cover them about half an inch deep with earth.

These herbs are all to remain where sown, and the chief culture
they require is to be kept clear from weeds; but as the plants soon
run up for seed, you should sow a small portion every month.

Crambe Maritima, or Sea Kale.

The Crambe maritima^ or Sea Kale, being yet very little known
in the United States, though a most excellent garden vegetable, and
highly deserving of cultivation; it may be of importance to the
comnmnity, to give some account of this plant, and the moat ap-
proved methods of cultivating it.

This plant is found growing spontaneously, thout^h locally, on
the sea shore of the southern parts of Enghmd, as well as in simi-
lar places, in many other parts of Europe.

It is of the same natural class as the cabbage, but differs from It
and most of the Tetradynamus plants of Linn^us, in having a round

200 THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [March.

seed vessel, containing one seed only; its root is perennial, runninj;
to a great depth, growing to a great thickness, and branching out
■widely, but not creeping: its full grown leaves are large, equalling
in size, when the plant grows luxuriantly, those of the largest cab-
bage, of a glaucous or sea-green hue, and waved at the edges,
thick and succulent in their wild state, dying away and disappearing
entirely at the approach of winter. Seedling plants, when raised
in spring, produce the first year, radical leaves only, the second
spring most of them throw up a flowering stem, a foot or more in
height, which expanding into nui .erous branci?es, forms a magni-
ficent head of white, or cream-coloured flowers, having a honey like
fragrance; these, if the season proves favourable, are followed by
abundance of seed.

As an article of food, the Crambe maritima appears to be better
known in England, than in any other part of Europe; it is in that
country only that its value is rightly appreciated, and its culture
carefully attended to

On many parts of the sea coast of England, especially of De-
vonshire, Dorsetshire, and Sussex, the inhabitants, from time imme-
morial, have been in the practice of procuring ii for their tabiesj
preferring it to all other greens: they seek for the plant in the
spring, where it grows spontaneously, and as soon as it appears
above ground, they remove the pebbles or sand with which it is
usually covered, to the depth of several inches, and cut off the
young and tender leaves and stalks, as yet unexpanded and in a
blanched state, close to the crown of the root; it is then in its great-
est perfection: when the leaves are fully grown, they become hard
and bitter, and the plant is not eatable.

The more curious, desirous of having it at hand, and in their im-
mediate possession, have now in many parts of the maritime coun-
ties of England, introduced it to their gardens; and in Devonshire
particularly, there is scarcely a good garden to be found, without, a
plantation of it for the use of the table, h is also cultivated for sale
in various parts of England, particularly Bath, Chichester, 8cc.

It is to be observed, that the Sea Kale is delicate eating, only
when young, and that it is highly improved by being blanched: in
the cultivation of this plant, it becomes necessary to blanch it before
it is fit for the table; to effect this, it must be covered, in some way
or other, before the flowering stem, which constitutes the chief eat-
able part, and its attendant leaves show the least sign of emering
from the crown of the root.

Cultivators have differed widely respecting the mode of treating
this plant; many conceiving that stones, or gravel, and sea-sand,
are essential to its growth, have gone to the expence of providing it
with such, not aware that it will grow much more luxuriantly, on a
rich sandy loam, where the roots can penetrate to a great depth,
without reaching the water, in which, if they are immersed, they
are apt to rot: the plant will succeed almost in any soil, provided it
be dry: its luxuriance will depend chiefly on the manure with which
the soil is enriched; but, of all others, a deep, rich, sandy loam, is
its favourite soil.

March.] THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. 201

The most usual mode of raising the Sea Kale, is from seed; it
may also be raised from cuttings of the root, and that with the
greatest certainty, but seedlings make the finest plants. Some find
a difficulty in making the seeds vegetate; this may be attributed to
their being old, buried too deep in the earth, or sown too late in the
spring: the most proper time for sowing the seed is in October, or
as early in the spring as the ground can be got in a fit condition to
receive them, and an inch is the proper depth to cover them; they
rarely vegetate in less than six weeks, after being sown, even in the
most favourable season, and some will remain in the ground for
twelve months before they vegetate: should the season prove dry,
it will be necessary to water the ground where the seeds are sown,
and the plants after they appear, frequently.

It is the best practise to raise young plants immediately from
seed, on the bed where they are intended to remain; by this means
the plants receive no check in their growth. When you have
formed your bed, which should be raised somewhat above the level
of the ground, being previously trenched very deep and enriched
with the best rotten manure; make each bed wide enough to hold
two rows of plants, the space between each plant in the row, four-
teen inches, and between each row, a foot and a half; sow about six
or eight seeds, as before directed, on each spot where your plant is
intended to remain; this number is directed, in order to guard
against accidents, as every seed may not vegetate, or at least not the
first season, which would be a losing year, besides some of those
that do, may be destroyed by worms or insects; should all of them
succeed they are easily reduced to a single plant; this reduction
however need not be made too hastily: during summer your bed
of course must be kept perfectly clean from weeds. If for the sake
of a more certain crop, you are disposed to make your plantation
of the cuttings of the roots, you may take such as are about half an
inch or a little more in diameter, and cut them into pieces of about
two inches in length, burying each in an upright position about
three inches under ground, in the same kind of bed and at the same
distances, as you would have sown the seeds; the middle or latter
end of this month will be a proper season in the middle slates for
doing this, earlier in the southern states, and somewhat later in the
eastern.

Or if, for the sake of forwarding your plantation and gaining time,
you make use of plants instead of seeds, or cuttings, presuming
that it is possible for you to procure them, they should be those of
a year old, and taken up with due care out of the seed bed; trim
off the extreme part of the root, and let each plant be planted in a
perpendicular manner so deep, as that its crown will be one inch
under the surface; the period before mentioned for planting cut-
lings will be the proper lime for transplanting these; if their flow-
ering stalks be cut for food the same season, it will weaken the
plants considerably, and hence even in point of time there is little
gained by using such, for most of the seedling plants in your bed,
if they have been properly managed, as well as your plants from
cuttings, will flower, and of course, be fit to cut the second year,

2 C

202 1HE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [March.

In November cover your beds with a thick coat of rotten dung or
leaves, this at the same time that it protects your plants from
frost, will bring them forwarder, and add to their luxuriance; about
the middle of March in the middle states, it will be necessary to
cover your plants for blanching, the readiest mode of doing which,
is to draw the earth up with a hoe over the crown of the root, so
that each plant shall be covered to the depth of ten or twelve inches;
some blanch it by heaping on it sea sand; some common sand and
pebbles, and others with large garden pots inverted, and placed im-
mediately over the plants, stopping up the holes at the bottoms,
and this last is the neatest and cleanest mode.

The finest or at least the largest Sea Kale, is that which is produced
from seedling plants the first year of their flowering, as the great
produce of the plant then centres in one flowering stem; afterwards
the crown of the root ramifying into many heads, a greater number
of stalks are produced, which are more slender but not less delicate.

When your plants have been covered in either method, three,
four, or five weeks, according to the early or late period of covering,
examine them, and if you find that the stalks have shot up three or
four inches, you may begin cutting; should you wait till all the
shoots are of a considerable length, your crop will come in too much
at once, for in this plant there is not that succession of growth
which there is in Asparagus; you may continue cutting till you see
the head of flowers begin to form, and if at this time you uncover
it entirely, and let it proceed to that state in which Brocoli is usu-
ally cut, and use it as such, you will find it an excellent substitute,
and this greatly enhances the value of the plant, as Brocoli does not
stand our winter frost, and can only be had when carefully protected
as directed in J^ovember, but this plant is sufficiently hardy to bear
our severest frost, without much injury. You are not to weaken
the roots too much by over cutting, for in that case you would in-
jure their next year's bearing; they are to be indulged, as. you do
asparagus with several uncut shoots, to grow up during summer,
to carry on a proper vegetation, to strengthen and enlarge the roots.

Such as are partial to this plant may force it in any of the winter
or early spring months, nothing more being necessary than to place
over each plant a large garden pot, as in one of the modes of blanch-
ing already recommended, and cover the pots with a sufficient quan-
tity of hot horse dung, the heat of the dung brings forward the plant,
while the pot keeps it from coming in contact therewith; and as
the growth of the plant is by this means greatly accelerated, it is of
course rendered more tender, as well as sweeter.

These plants may also be forced in frames as directed in January
and February for asparagus, observing to take up such plants for
this purpose as are sure to flower; trimming their side roots and
shortening their long tap-roots to the length of nine or ten inches,
or twelve in very large plants, and placing them in a frame on a
hot-bed, and in a suitable depth of earth, at the distance of four to
six inches asunder; as the plants used thus, will be rendered of
little or no value; where this practice is used, it will be necessary
to have a regular succession of plants for the purpose.

March.] THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. 203

In cutting the plants for the table, care must be taken not to
injure the crowns of the roots, by cutting the shoots too close to
them.

The sooner this delicious esculent is dressed, after it is cut, the
better. Twenty minutes boiling, in general, is sufficient to make
it tender; this process is the more to be attended to, as the good-
ness of the article greatly depends on it; that which is young,
recently cut, or forced, will be done in less time; when properly
boiled it is to be served up, in the manner of asparagus; it dresses
well by stewing, and makes an excellent pickle.

As an esculent vegetable it is found to be very wholesome, and
most people who have tried it, prefer it to asparagus, to which it is
related, in point of flavour.

When the crop is sufficiently cut, level the earth all over the beds,
keep them free from large weeds during the remainder of the sea-
son, and cover them in November as before directed.

This plant will grow extremely well in such soil as suits aspara-
gus, having it prepared in the same manner as for that, and would
be very profitable to cultivate for sale near cities and large towns.

Spring dressing of Artichokes.

As soon in this month as the very severe frosts are over, any
long light litter with which your artichokes are covered, must be
raked off" into the trenches; and when you perceive the young shoots
beginning to appear above ground, or rather one or two inches
up, not before, proceed to levelling down the beds into the alleys
or trenches, rounding them in a neat manner, then dig and loosen
all the ground round the plants, at the same time, examine the num-
ber of shoots arising on each stoU or root, selecting three of the
strongest and healthiest looking on every stool to remain; all above
that number are too be slipped off" close to the root, with your hand,
except you want such, to make new plantations with; in which case,
any extra number for that purpose, are to remain on the mother
plants, until they are about eight or ten inches high from their roots
or junction with the old plants, when they are to be slifified off", and
planted as hereafter directed, leaving only three of the best shoots
on each crown as before, closing the earth in again about the crowns
of the roots, and drawing it a little up to the remaining suckers. Ob-
serve that in every part of the Union, this dressing is to be given,
when the plants are in the above described state, whether that hap-
pens in February, March, or April, occasioned by the difference of
climate, or the earliness or lateness of the spring.

Planting Artichokes.

In making new plantations of Artichokes, select for that purpose,
a piece of deep, rich, sandy loam, that is not subject to retain too
much wet in winter, nor to be parched up with drought in summer,
having a gentle slope, sufficient to carry off" any moisture that
might lodge in the trenches between the rows; for that is much

204 J^'HE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [March.

more destructive to their roots in winter, than the most severe frost;
when both these enemies attack the plants with their combined pow-
ers, they seldom fail to accomplish the work of destruction; but
from the frosts, there is not much to be apprehended, if the plants
lie dry.

Having fixed upon a proper soil and situation, lay on it a good
quantity of rotten dung, and trench the ground one good spade or
eighteen inches deep, incorporating the manure well therewith, and
pulverizing the ground effectually in the digging; then proceed to
take of the slips mentioned before in the dressing of artichokes,
sU|;ping them off the mother stools with all the roots or fibres which
they may have thrown out, rejecting such as appear unhealthy, and
closing the earth up after you to the remaining shoots. The^e be-
ing provided, pull off any loose hanging leaves, and trim the fibres;
then plant them with a dibble, about four or five inches deep, in rows
five feet asunder, and two feet plant from plant in the row, leaving
part of their green tops above ground, and the hearts of the plants
free from any earth over them, and give each plant a little water to
settle the earth about its roots.

Or, if you have seedling year old plants, in a seed bed, you may
take them up, and after shortening their tap-roots a little, and dres-
sing their leaves, plant them as above.

Such young plantations, if kept clear from weeds, and now and
then watered in dry weather, will yield good artichokes the following
autumn, but will produce larger fruit, and more abundantly next year.
You may sow a small crop of lettuce, radish, or spinach. Sec. the
first year between these rows, especially if you wish to make the
most of your ground.

A plantation of artichokes will continue to produce good heads
for five or six years, but it must be observed, that if you wish to
have a succession of this fruit, you must make a small plantation
every spring, for the young plants will not produce their heads in
perfection till after the crops of the old standing ones are over.

Solving ^Artichoke Seed.

There are two principal varieties of the Garden Artichoke, indeed
Mr. Miller makes two species of them; the Cynara Scolymus, or
French Artichoke, and the Cynara hortends^ or Globe Artichoke,

The first being the sort which in former times was most com-
monly cultivated in France, is generally known by the title of
French Artichoke. The leaves are terminated by short spines, the
head is oval, and the scales do not turn inward at the top like those
of ihe Globe Artichoke, the heads are of a green colour, the bot-
toms are noi near so thick of flesh, and have a perfumed taste, which
to many persons is very disagreeable; so that it is seldom cultivated
where the globe kinds can be procured.

Of the second, there are two varieties, the green and the red
fruited, both extremely fine. The head is globular, a little compres-
sed at the top, the scales lie close over each other and their ends turn
inwards so as closely to cover the middle.

March.] THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. 205

The leaves of the Globe artichoke, are of a bluer cast, with more
and deeper jags on the clifts, than those of the French; they have
smull inert prickles, like the latter, but not so perceptible: the
leaves of the French sort are larger, much wider, and of a paler
colour The great openness of the scales in the head of the French
artichoke is a leading character; it, also, rather draws up to a point
in the middle, whereas the Globe kind is quite flat at top. The
colour of the fruit in the red variety of the Globe artichoke, is a red-
dish brown, or rather a dusky purple, with a tinge of green.

Alter the above descriptions, it will be unnecessary to recom-
mend which kind to sow; but being provided with good fresh seed
of either sort, that you desire to cultivate, prepare a piece of ground
as directed for the young plantations, and at the distances there
mentioned, sow a few grains of seed in each spot where a plant
Tnii.'iht be set, covering them about three quarters of an inch deep
with light fine earth; when they appear, keep them very clean and
free from weeds during the whole summer and autumn, and in
JVovember, you will find the method of their winter treatment, as
well as that of the old plants. Any extra plants that may arise, are
to be transplanted into new beds the spring following.

In the course of the season, you may have crops of cauliflowers,
cabbages, dwarf-kidney-beans, spinach, lettuces. Sec, &c. between
the rows; keeping them at a sufficient distance from the young arti-
chokes, so as not to smother, or cause them to draw up weakly.

Or, sow these seeds in a bed, so thin as you may expect the
plants to rise at the distance of six inches, allowing for imperfect
seeds and accidents, cover them as above, and in the spring follow-
ing transplant them as before directed.

Cardoons.

The Cyjiara Cardunculus^ or Cardoon Artichoke, has been a long
time used for culinary purposes, such as for sallads, soups, stew-
ing, &c.

The stalks of the leaves being thick, fleshy, and crisp, are the
eatable parts, being first blanched by landing them up like celery,
to two or three feet high, to render them white, tender, and of an
agreeable flavour, which otherwise would be rank and bitter: they
are in perfection in autumn and winter.

Sow the seeds towards the latter end of this month, or beginning
of next, broad-cast in a bed of rich earth, and cover them about three
quarters of an inch deep; when the plants are three inches high, thin
them to four or five inches distance, that they may not be drawn up
weak; keep them free from weeds, and towards the latter end of
May or beginning of June, they will be fit to plant where they are
intended to remain for perfection. For their further treatment see
May, Sec.

Or, as these plants are rather impatient of transplanting, you may
sow the seeds at the distances directed in May for the plants, a few
seeds in each spot, and as they advance thin them, leaving only the
best plant in each of those squares.

206 A'HE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [March.

Alexanders, or Mesanders.

The Smyrnium Olusatrum, or common Alexanders, are used for
culinary purposes as the Cardoons, and blanched in like manner.
The whole plant is of a strong, warm and aromatic nature, and the
leaves and seed are sometimes used for medicine.

The seed of this plant should be sown in autumn soon after it is
ripe, for if kept out of the ground till spring, few of them will come
up till that time twelve months; however, when you sow the seed
in spring, let it be done as early as possible, and sown pretty thick
in drills eighteen inches asunder, covering the seeds near an inch
deep; when the plants are up, thin them to six or eight inches dis-
tance in the rows, and as they advance in growth draw the earth up
to their stems as you do to celery, in order to blanch and whiten
them, that they should be crisp and tender for autumn and winter
use: in the spring following, such as remain will shoot out again
vigorously, let the earth then be hoed up close to each plant, and in
three or four weeks they will be blanched and in a fine condition
for use.

When these plants are desired, I would recommend them to be
sown where they are to remain, in any of the autumn months; in
that case, they will rise freely in spring, and become fine vigorous
plants.

Propagating various Pot and Medicinal Herbs.

The latter end of this month will be a good time to plant cuttings
or slips of hyssop, thyme, winter savory, rue, rosemary, lavender,
wormwood, southern-wood, sage, and any other under-shrubby
kinds; in taking off the slips of any of these sorts, give a prefer-
ence to the suckers if any, that is, such as have a few fibres attached
to them; from such as are not furnished with these, take off slips or
cuttings of the young healthy outward shoots, produced last year,
from about six to ten inches long, according as they occur, observ-
ing to slip or cut them clean off close to the parts from whence
they proceed. Let these be planted in a bed or border six inches
apart, and inserted two-thirds of their lengths into the ground;
they will take root freely, by observing to water them in dry wea-
ther, and in September will be well rooted, and may either then, or
in October, be transplanted wherever destined to remain; or the slips
may, in the first instance, be planted in such places.

Propagate tarragon, tansey, chamomile, common fennel, marsh-
mallows, pot-marjoram, baum, burnet, horehound, spear-mint, pep-
per-mint, feverfew, officinal scurvy-grass, cat-mint, celandine, pen-
ny-royal, or Mentha Fulegium^ angelica, lovage, gromwell, and any
other perennial herbaceous plants, and also thyme, hyssop, and win-
ter-savory, by parting their roots or by slips therefrom: the best
lime for separating the roots of each and every of the above kinds, is
just when they begin to advance a little in growth. All the above
kinds may be planted in four feet wide beds, in any tolerably good

March.] THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. 207

ground, having twelve to eighteen inch alleys between; and placed
in rows lengthwise in the beds, allowing proportionate distances ac-
cording to their respective growths; or the small growing kinds
may be planted in borders, or any other convenient places, that are
open and well exposed.

The best time to gather any of the preceding kinds for distilla-
tion, or to preserve in a dry state for medicinal purposes. Sec. is when
they are in the first stage of their flowering.

You may towards the latter end of this month, or any time in the
next, sow seeds of either, or all of the above mentioned kinds, and
also of the following annual plants, for medicinal and culinary pur-
poses, viz. borage, sweet fennel, sweet marjoram, sweet basil, sum-
mer savory, fenugreek, pot marigold, anise, and likewise clary, car-
raway, smallage, and fox-glove, &c. the four last are biennials and do
not flower till the second year, but their leaves may be used at any
time when arrived at a sufficient size. All these seeds should be
sown separately in beds of rich earth, and covered from the eighth
of an inch to half an inch deep in proportion to their size, either
in the broad-cast way, or in drills; or the low growing kinds may be
sown in single drills along the edges of borders, particularly thyme,
hyssop, and winter savory, 8cc, and when the plants are arrived at a
sufficient size, they may be thinned and transplanted into any beds
or quarters that can be spared for that purpose.

Dill.

This plant is extremely valuable as an ingredient in pickles, to
which it gives a most exquisite flavour: the seeds when ripe are
frequently used for that purpose, but it is the more general practice
when they are formed, and not yet perfect, to cut off" the umbels or
heads, and then use them as above.

This seed should be sown in any of the autumn months after be-
ing ripe, and will come up the spring following, for when kept out
of ground till the latter period, one third of it and perhaps less, will
not vegetate till that time twelve months; but if sown very early in
March, and thick, you may expect a tolerable crop that season; sow
it broad cast on four feet wide beds, covering it, if sown in autumn,
half an inch, and if in spring, a quarter of an inch deep; when
the plants come up, thin them to six inches distance, and the same
season they will perfect their seeds; which, if any are suffered to
*■ shed, will not fail to come up plentifully the next year.

Finochio, or Jlzorian Fennel.

The Finochio has very short stalks, which swell just above the
surface of the ground, to three or four inches in breadth, and near
two thick, being fleshy and tender; this is the part which is eaten
when blanched, with oil, vinegar and pepper, as a cold sal lad

For the cultivation of this plant, make choice of a good spot of
light rich earth, not dry nor very wet, for, in either extreme,
it will not thrive. Sow the seeds pretty thin in shallow drills

208 fHE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [March.

about eighteen inches asunder, covering them half an inch deep,
when they come up thin them, leaving the best plants six inches dis-
tant from one another: about the beginning of July your first crop if
sown in March, will be fit for blanching, at which time you are to
earth it up as you do celery, and in three weeks after, it will be in a
good condition for use. To have a regular succession of this plant
some seed must be sown every three weeks during the season, and
your late crops may be preserved in winter as you do celery.

Capsicums or Red-peppers, Tomatoes, and Egg-Plants.

The different varieties of the Capsicums, Tomatoes, and Egg-
plants, being in much estimation for culinary purposes: you should
sow some of each kind now in pots, and forward them in your hot-
beds, so as to have strong plants ready for planting out into the open
ground as early in May, as the night frosts shall have totally disap-
peared. Each and every of these kinds bear transplanting extreme-
ly well, and from this sowing you may expect early and abundant
crops. For further particulars, see April, May, &c.

Planting out Cabbages, Beets, Turneps, Sfc.for Seeds.

As early in this month as the weather gets open, and tolerably
mild, plant out such cabbagesj beets, carrots, turneps, parsneps, &c.
as you have preserved during the winter to raise seed from; the cab-
bages are to be planted in rows, four feet asunder, one foot distant
from each other in the rows, and up to their heads in the earth; the
others may be planted in four feet wide beds, at the distance often
or twelve inches root fiom root, or in rows, at pleasure; observing to
tie up the shoots, to stakes placed for that purpose, as they advance
for seeding, to prevent their being broken down by winds, heavy
rains, &.c.

Planting Potatoes.

Potatoes may now be planted for an early crop, as soon as the
weather opens, and that the frost is entirely out of the ground; let
the soil in which you plant them be moderately light, a little en-
riched with dung, and advantageously situated.

Be careful to procure the earliest kinds, from which select a
quantity of the best formed and soundest roots, and of a tolerable .
size; these are to be cut into sets, a week before planting, in order
that the wounds should have time to form a dry crust, for if planted
at this season immediately after being cut, they would rnibibe too
much moisture, many of them rot, and all would be greatly weak-
ened thereby: cut each root into two, three, or more pieces accord-
ing to their size; minding particularly that each cut be furnished
with one or two good eyes or buds which is sufficient. They are
then to be planted in rows two feet and a half asunder, the sets to be
nine inches distant in the row, and three or four inches deep. Should
severe frost ensue protect them by laying some long litter, or wispy
dung over the drills.

March.] THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. 209

Horse-Radish.

This plant is cultivated by cuttinfrs of the root, either cut from
the top an inch or two long, or some old roots cut into pieces of
that length, or by small offsets that arise from the sides of the
main root, retaining the crowns or top shoots on as inany as pos-
sible.

Being furnished with these sets, choose in an open situation, a
light and rich soil, which, trench regularly two spades deep, at the
same time giving it a good dressing of manure; then beginning at
one end of the ground, range a line, and with a large dibble make
holes about ten inches deep, all of an equal depth and about six
inches asunder, dropping as you go on, one set or cutting into each
hole, with the crown upright, taking care to fill or close the lioles
up properly with the earth, and let the rows be two feet asunder.
Or you may plant them as you advance in the digging or trenching
of the ground, at the same depth and distances, covering each row
when set in, with the earth of the next course; and so proceed till
all are planted After this, level t^he surface of the ground even,
observing to keep it free from weeds, until the plants are so far
advanced, as to be strong enough to overbear and keep them down.

With this management the roots will be long, straight, and free
from many small lateral offsets; and the second year alter planting,
will be fit for use. It is true they may be taken up the first year,
but then the roots will be slender; therefore it is the better way,
to let them remain till the second, when they will be in a fine con-
dition; and if in taking up the roots you take care to leave some
offsets still remaining, you will have a successional supply for many
years.

Liquorice.

The Glycyrrhiza glabra., or cultivated Liquorice, is a plant that
brings enormous profit to the industrious cultivator: it is of con-
siderable importance in medicine, and consequently, in great demand
by the Druggists, and Apothecaries; and also, by Porter brewers,
being a very material ingredient in that article. Of 4000 quintals
or nearly two hundred tons, annually exported from Spain, the far
greater part is considered to be purchased by the Porter brewers of
London. About Pontefract in Yorkshire, England, where it is cul-
tivated in great perfection, an acre of well grown Liquorice, is con-
sidered to be worth one hundred pounds sterling; therefore, due
attention should be paid to its culture in the United States, where it
will grow to the greatest possible perfection; thereby to prevent
the necessity of importing large quantities of it annually from
Europe, at a considerable expence, and in a much inferior condition
to what it could be had, if cultivated at home. In hopes that this may
be attempted by some spirited persons, who may have the welfare
of their country, as well as their own at heart, 1 shall proceed to
give the method of bringing this valuable plant, to the utmost per-
fection.

9. D

210 THE KITCHEN-GARDEN; [March.

The Liquorice delights in a light sandy rich soil, which should be
three feet deep at least; for the goodness, as well as the profits
arising from the culture of this plant, is proportionate to the size
and length of its roots; the ground in which you intend to plant
it, should be highly manured and well dug the autumn before, that
the dung may be perfectly rotted and mixed with the earth; im-
mediately previous to planting, trench the ground three spades deep,
if the natural soil be good that depth, and lay it very light; when
your ground is thus prepared, you should furnish yourself with
fresh plants, taken from the sides or heads of the old roots, observ-
ing that each has one or two good buds or eyes, otherwise they are
subject to miscarry; these plants should be from six to ten inches
long and perfectly sound.

The best season for planting them, in the middle states, is the
latter end of March, or just when their buds begin to show symp-
toms of fresh vegetation, which must be done in the following man-
ner, viz. first strain a line across the ground, then with a long dib-
ble, put in the roots so that the whole plant may be set straight
into the ground, with the top about an inch under the surface, in a
straight line and about a foot or a little more asunder, and two feet
distance row from row: you may then sow a thin a crop of radishes,
onions, lettuces or any other small growing crops, in drills between
the rows, keeping the whole clean, particularly the rising plants of
liquorice, during the summer and autumn; in the November follow-
ing, you should carefully hoe and clean the ground; the shoots and
leaves being then decayed, cut them off, and spread a little rotten
dung on the surface, the virtue of which, will be washed into the
ground by the rains, and the plants greatly improved thereby.

In the March following you should slightly dig the ground
between the rows, burying the remaining part of the dung, but in
doing this you should be careful not to injure the roots. Let nothing
now be either sowed or planted between the rows, but keep them
always clean, and in autumn when the stalks of the Liquorice are
decayed, cut them down close to the surface of the earth as before.

The same work is to be repeated annually, till the plants are three
years old, when they will be fit for taking up; that is slightly stir
the ground every spring and autumn, keeping down the weeds in
summer by hoeing; but after the first or second year, the stalks
will shoot so vigorously, as soon to cover the ground, and greatly
retard the growth of weeds.

The proper season for taking up the roots, is November, for they
should not be taken up until the sialks are fully decayed, nor defer-
red till the sap begins to circulate afresh in spring, for in either case,
the roots would be apt to shrivel and diminish in weight, whicli
would be a loss to the cultivator, as it is by weight they are always
sold.

The method of taking up the roots is by trenching the ground,
beginning at one side and opening a trench close to the first row,
three spades deep, or to the depth of the roots; at which work, three
or four spadesmen are generally employed at a trench; one goes
on with the lop spit, a second with the next, and another with the
third, and the fourth commonly gets to the bottom of the roots,

March.] THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. 211

having a mattock to assist him occasionally to clear them; as he
takes them up, he throws them on the top of the ground, and in this
manner they proceed from row to row, till the whole plantation
is taken up.

The small side roots are then trimmed off; the best divided into
lengths for fresh sets, which are to be carefully preserved in earth
till the time of planting, if not planted immediately, and the main
roots are washed clean, dried and tied in bundles, for sale.

When Liquorice is intended to be cultivated on a large scale,
the rows may be planted three feet distant, and the labour of hoeing
performed with a amall plough.

If not sold immediately after having been taken up, the culti-
vator must be careful, not to suffer them to be put together in large
quantities, lest they should become mouldy, as this vegetable, un-
less preserved in a dry place, is very liable to such corruption.

Rhubarb.

There are several species of this plant, but the Rheum fialma-
ium, or true officinal Rhubaib, is that which merits particular atten-
tion. It is a native of China, and Russian Tartary, has braved the
climate of St. Petersburgh, grows to good perfection in Scotland, as
far north as Perthshire (lat. 56"); also in England, Turkey and
various other parts of Europe; is an article of considerable con-
sumption, consequently of national importance, and highly deserv-
ing of attention in the United States. It grows to the greatest pos-
sible perfection among the Tartarian mountains, from Selin to Tibet,
without any other culture than what is afforded by the scraping of
the Marmots; and shall we despair of bringing it to perfection,
where soil and climate is perfectly congenial, and nothing wanted,
but the enterprize of a few spirited individuals to make a com-
mencement? There is no doubt, that if the culture of this, and
Liquorice, were duly attended to, but the crops would more than
amply repay the cultivators; and although a partiality to articles
of customary culture is in the way, it is to be hoped, that new and
necessary plants will, from time to time, be introduced, and culti-
vated, with advantage to the individuals, and the nation at large.

The following is the mode of its culture: having procured a suf-
ficient quantity of seed of the true kind, select a piece of light rich
sandy loam, such as answers for asparagus, and after giving it a
good coat of manure, trench it two or three spades deep, if the good
soil admits; after which, level the top neatly, and lay it out by line,
into squares of four feet, at the angles or intersections of which, you
are to form little circles with your finger about six or eight inches
in diameter, and on each, scatter a few seeds, then cover them with
light fine mould three quarters of an inch deep. The seeds should
be sown as early in spring as possible, or if this had been done in
November, they would vegetate in spring with more certainty; when
the young plants appear, keep them free from weeds, and in dry
•weather give them frequently a little water, but not much at a time;
and above all things, protect them from the mid-day sun till they get

212 I'HE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [March.

considerably strong, for if exposed fu ly to this, during their infant
Slate, few uftlieni would escape destruction thereby; were you to
place a piece of board on end, about fifteen inches broad, and two
feet and a half high, at the south side of each hill, leaning a little
over the plants, this would answer the end effectually, without de-
priving them of the benefit of the circulating air. The first season
is their critical period, having survived that, they have nothing to
fear afterwards. Onions, lettuces or any other low growing crops,
may be either sown or planted in the intervals for the first year, so
that they are kept at a proper distance from the young plants. The
supernumerary plants, one being sufficient to be left in each of these
places for ultimate perfection, may be transplanted the spring fol-
lowing into new plantations, similarly prepared and at the same dis-
tance.

The November following, all the leaves being then decayed, cover
the crowns of the plants two inches deep with earth from the inter-
vals, and if there is danger of any wet lodging, throw up trenches,
rounding the beds as is commonly done to asparagus, and for the
first winter, lay some dry litter over the plants. In the March
following, strip the covering till you just perceive the tops of the
plants, give all the ground a slight digging and dress it neatly after
you, observing to keep the beds well hoed, and always free from
weeds

Thus proceed every autumn and spring, till the roots have four
years growth, when some of them may be taken up for use; but it
is generally admitted that their medicinal virtues increase, until they
are eight or ten years old.

You must be very circumspect in the choice of ground; particu-
larly, that it is not subject to lodge wet, for this plant, by no means
agrees with too much moisuue; preferring a rich dry sandy loam,
to any other kind of soil,

RhuDarb may also be propagated by offsets from the old roots, or
by sowing the seed in seed-beds, and transplanting them when a
year old, into such beds and at the same distances as befoie directed
for sowing the seed; but they always produce larger and better
roots, when sown where they are to reuiain.

The proper time to take up the roots for use, is in autumn, after
the leaves and stalks are totally decayed; when taken up, wash them
clean, trim off the small fibres, and lay them in an airy place to dry,
for four days, then rasp off the outward skin which greatly obstructs
the quickness of drying, from the pores not being laid open for the
herbaceous moisture to exhale; the mere stripping off the bark, will
not be sufficient, the rasping it off, and the lacerating of the out-
ward part of the root adjoining it, will be necessary; for, the lateral
pores must be opened, lo permit the confined watery fluid to exude
freely. Then cut them in slices, which string on pack-thread so as
not to touch, and hang them up in a stove-room, to be kept con-
stantly warm till they are effectually dry. Should the season even
prove hot enough for drying them in the sun, the former method
would be preferable; for by exposing them so much to the sun and
light, they would be greatly impaired in the colour, and perhaps

March.] , THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. 213

some of their finer parts dissipated thereby; but culinary heat is free
from that objection, and at the same time possesses all the advantatjes
of quick drying;. The drying of the ronts, without suffering them to
get mouldy, must be carefully attended to, as a neglect in this point,
would render all your former industry fruitless, and it is considered
among the cultivators as a difficult task.

The marks of the goodness of rhubarb are, the liveliness of its co-
lour when cut; its being firm and solid, but not flinty or hard; its be-
ing easily pulverable, and appearing when powdered of a bright yel-
low colour; on being chewed, its imparting to the spittle, a deep saf-
fron tinge, and not proving slimy or mucilaginous in the mouth.

The true officinal or palmated rhubarb, has numerous root-leaves,
large, rough, of a roundish figure, deeply cut into lobes and irregu-
larly pointed segments; on long, smooth, round foot-stalks. Stem-
leaves, one at each joint, issuing from a membranous sheath suc-
cessively smaller upwards. Flowers surrounding the branches in nu-
merous clusters, and forming a kind of spike. Corolla or ffovvers, of
a greenish white.

This species cannot be mistaken, if you attend to its superior
height, the ferruginous or reddish brown colour of the stem branches,
and petioles or leaf-stalks, the particular palmate form of the leaves,
and the elegant looseness of the little pannicles of flowers which dis-
play themselves on erect, round, hollow, jointed, slightly scored
stems, branching towards the top, and from six to eight feet high.

27ie Rheum Rhaponticum, or Common Rhubarb.

This has a large thick root, which divides into many strong fleshy
fangs, running deep into the ground; the outside of a reddish brown
colour, and the inside yellow, from which arise several leaves, in
number according to the size of the root; those come up folded in
the spring, and afterwards expand themselves; they are smooth, of
a roundish heart shape, having very thick foot-stalks of a reddish
colour, which are little channelled on their lower part, but flat at
the top When the plant grows on rich land, the foot-stalks of the
leaves are near two feet long, and thicker than a man's thumb; the
leaves also are often two feet long and as much in breadth, having
several strong longitudinal veins, running from the foot-stalk to the
borders, of a deep green, and waved on their edges, having an acid
taste, but particularly the foot-stalks, which are very frequently used,
and much esieemed for tarts and pies. The flower stalks grow from
two to three feet high, and are terminated by thick close spikes of
white flowers. Its roots aflord a gentle purge, but is of much infe-
rior quality to the former, and may be cultivated the same way as
directed for that.

The Jerusalem Artichoke.

The Helianthiis tuberosus, or tuberous rooted sun-flower, com-
monly called the Jerusalem artichoke; "this root," says Parkinson,
an ancient English writer, " our ancestors boiled tender, and then

214 '^'HE FRUIT-GARDEN. [March.

being peeled, ate them sliced and stewed, with butter, wine and
spices — thus, they were a dainty for a queen, being as pleasant as
the bottom of an artichoke:" hence probably that name oric!;inated,
as they bear not the least resemblance in growth to an artichoke.

The roots being the eatable part, are large fleshy tubers, much
resembling a potatoe; are in perfection in autumn and all the winter,
and are wholesome palatable food, when properly dressed.

They are raised by sets, or cuttings, of the root, preparing the
sets and planting them as directed for potatoes, in rows three feet
asunder, four or five inches deep, and eighteen inches distant from
one another in the rows: they increase abundantly, will thrive in any
tolerable soil, and cannot be easily got out of the ground again, for
the least bit will grow. It is a native of Brazil, and a striking instance
of how tropical productions may gradually and successfully be intro-
duced and naturalized in colder climates.

SOUTHERN STATES.

This is a very principal month in the southern states for garden-
ing: all manner of work hitherto directed, may now be performed
there, successfully. In South Carolina and Georgia they may now
sow the seeds of melons, cucumbers, squashes, tomatoes, egg-plants,
okras, red peppers, See. as directed in the kitchen-garden for jiiiril
and May.

THE FRUIT-GARDEN.

Pruning Pears, Plumbs, Cherries, Jlpples, Sfc.

As eavly in this month as possible, finish pruning your cherries
and plums; also your apple and pear-trees, before the end thereof,
whether as espaliers, standards, or wall-trees. Peaches, nectarines,
apricots, almonds, quinces, &.c. should also be pruned early in
the month, if not done before. For the particular method of prun-
ing espalier and wall-trees, see the Fruit-Garden for January and
February, pages 24 and 136; and for that of the standards, the
Orchard, pages 46, 143, &c. This should be particularly attended
to, and the pruning of all kinds of Fruit-trees finished before their
buds begin to push.

Pruning and training young .Apricot, JVectarine and Peach
Trees, Sfc. for Espaliers and fValls.

Now is the only proper time to head down young wall or espalier
trees, Sec. preparatory to their first training: such as apricot,

MAftCH.] THE FRUIT-GARDEN. 21 5

peach, and nectarine trees, planted against espaliers or walls, any
time since last October, with their first shoots, from budding at full
length; which, when a year old, should always be headed-down low,
to force out lower branches, to furnish the wall or espalier properly,
quite from the bottom.

This should be done just as the trees begin to swell their buds;
therefore, watch the opportunity, and let them be headed according-
ly at the proper time.

The heads should be cut down to about five, six, or seven eyes or
buds, from the bottom; and if there are two shoots from the ^ame
stock, let them both be cut down as above.

By this practice, the trees will produce some strong shoots near
the gi'ound, whereby they will be furnished equally with branches
from the bottom to the top of the wall or espalier. But if the trees
were not to be headeddown, as above, they would run up with a
stem like a standard-tree, and not furnish any branches below, with-
in two or three feet of the bottom; whereby the use of such part of
the espalier or wall, would be lost.

Such young apricot, peach, and nectarine trees, as were headed-
down a year ago, and having each produced three, four, or more
shoots the last summer, should now have these shortened to such
length, as may encourage each shoot to produce two or three new
ones the same season.

The method is this : let each shoot be shortened generally in
some degree of proportion to its strength; in some, pruning off
about one-half, or third of their original length; and in others, a
little more or less, according to circumstances of growth and situa-
tion on the trees: as for instance, shoots of about two feet may be
cut to ten, twelve, or fifteen inches, or a little longer in strong
growths; for the strongest shoots should always be left the longest;
and those about twelve to fifteen or eighteen inches, pruned to six,
eight, ten, or twelve inches in length; and so in proportion to the
different lengths and degrees of strength, and particular situation of
the respective shoots. — See January, kc.

By this practice, each of these shoots will probably produce two,
three, or four new shoots the succeeding summer, so that by Octo-
ber, each young tree so treated, will be furnished with from twelve or
fifteen, to eighteen or twenty shoots, or more.

The trees may then be pruned, according to the method directed
for the older trees of that sort, observing still, to shorten the young
shoots, but in such a manner, as they may both produce fruit and
a supply of young wood, as in the full bearing trees aforesaid; that
is, generally to prune the weaker shoots about one half, the stronger
ones prune about a third or fourth of their length, according to
strength and where situated, and the situation of the blossom, and
wood-buds on the respeciive shoots; then nail them straight and
close to the walls, or tie them to the espalier, with willow twigs, &c.
three or four to five or six inches asunder. — See Fruit Garden in
January^ Sec.

216 THE FRUIT-GARDEN. [March.

Pruning and training young Apple, Pear, Plum and Cherry Trees
for Espaliers and f Falls.

Any young dwarf apples, pears, plums, and (herry trees, lately
planted against waUs or espaliers, &c. or. still remaining in the
nursery, vsilh tueir first shoots, of only a year or two old, entirci
should now be pruned down to a few eyes, that they may put out
some good shoots near the ground, to furnish the bottom of the
wall or espalier therewith.

If the heads of these trees are but one year's growth from the
bud or graft, let them be shortened to four or five eyes; observing
to do it just as they begin to form buds for shooting.

Suppose they are two years from the bud or graft, and the first
shoots were cut down, as above, last spring; let the shoots which
were produced from them the last summer be also shortened now,
to six, eight, or ten inches.

The s.imc rule holds good wiih these, at first training, as men-
tioned for the apricots and peaches; for it is on shortening properly
the first and second year's shoots, from the budding and grafting,
that the whole success depends for forming a useful handsome
tree; as when a young wall or espalier tree is well furnished with
branches near the ground, these will readily supply you with more
in their turn, to furnish the wall or espalier upwards.

But in the common course of pruning apples, pears, plums, and
cherries, their shoots and branches are not to be shortened; for
after the young trees are furnislied with a proper supply of branches
below, their shoots must then be trained to the wall at full length,
only shortening particular shoots when more wood may be required
to furnish that part, or where they grow too crowded; as directed
in page 25, Sec.

Pruning Fig-Trees.

Some prune fig trees, the latter end of autumn, which is a very
wrong practice, where severe winter frosts are prevalent; as the
young shoots, which are the only bearing wood, are liable to be killed
in hard winters. If they were pruned in that season, and no more
left than what might then appear necessary, and severe frosts af-
terwards destroy many of those, you would have no resource left.

Therefore, the better way is, to let the trees remain unpruned
till this time, and if some had been killed by the severity of the
winter, there will be a chance from among the whole, to find a
sufficiency for your purpose, that have escaped. Observing how-
ever, that the sooner this work is done after the severe frosts are
over the better; for if delayed too long, the trees would bleed and
be injured thereby; but in the southern states, the late autumn prun-
ing is preferable.

Fig trees agree with, and in fact require, great heat; consequently,
in the eastern and middle states, they will thrive and bear better
when planted against walls, board fences, or espaliers, in warm ex-

March.] ^HE IFRUIT-GARDEN. 217

posures; therefore, shall give the method of pruning and training
them to such.

In those southern states, where they grow in the open standard
way, they need no other pruning, than keeping each, on a neat sin-
gle stem, free from suckers, cutting out any dead or ill placed,
wood, thinning the young shoots where too crowded, but never top-
ing any.

In pruning fig-trees, you must leave a sufficient supply of the
last summer's shoots from the bottom to the extremity, every way,
in all parts where possible; and prune out the ill-placed and super-
fluous shoots thereof, with part of the old bearers, and long extended
naked old wood, to have due room to train the proper shoots, so as
the tree may be equally furnished with a succession of young bearers,
at moderate distances; for these young shoots bear the figs the
ensuing season; fig-trees always producing their fruit on the ooe-
year-old wood only.

Leave the branches and shoots in general, about five to six or
seven inches asunder, all at full length; being careful to prefer the
best middling strong shoots to retain for general bearers, cuttingout
the improper, superabundant, and useless old wood, quite close;
pruning out any very rampant young wood, excessive long-jointed
shoots^ or very slender infirm growths; leaving the most promising
and firm to supply the general expansion.

Take care always to train in every year some young shoots, at or
near the bottom, that there may be a succession coming up regularly
one after another, to supply the places of casual, long, old, naked
branches, which will occur every season in some part or other of the
tree; for such long-extended naked old branches, or others, not fur-
nished properly with young wood, should now be cut out, that there
may be sufficient room to train the bearing shoots regularly, and at
proper distances.

In cutting out useless large branches, either too long extended,
or unfurnished with bearing wood, 8cc. let them be cut off close
to the places from whence they proceed, to some convenient lower
young shoots or branches, leaving no stumps.

The young branches of Jig-trees must not be shortened or topped;
but leave each at full length; for if they were, it would not only
cut away the part where fruit would have appeared, but also occa-
sion them to run much to wood, and thereby never produce half a
crop: so only cut off casual dead ends.

The tree being pruned, let the general branches and bearers be
directly trained in, and nailed to the wall or fence, or made fast to
the espalier, in regular order; extending them horizontally, at equal
distances, six or seven inches from each other.

Planting and propagating Fig-Trees.

Plant fig-trees where wanted, this being rather the best month
in the year for removing them; they will now take root in a very
short time.

2E

218 THE FRUIT-GARDEN. [March.

In planting figs, you may either procure trained young trees that
are arrived to a bearing state, and plant them at fifteen or twenty
feet distance; or, as they are propagated in general, either by the
suckers which arise from the roots of the old trees, or by layers, or
cuttings, young plants of these may be planted at once, where they
are to remain, that they may establish their roots more effectually
without being disturbed by removal: therefore in default of trained
trees, some good plants or suckers of moderate growth, and such as
are firm and well ripened, may be procured and planted at once
where they are to remain; and others may be planted in the nurse-
ry, for training a few years.

To raise thetn by layers, select young branches of one or two
years growth, laying them in the earth four or five inches deep,
with the tops as erect as possible; they will be well rooted by next
spring, when they should be separated from the old tree, and plant-
ed either in the nursery, or where they are to remain.

To propagate them by cuttings, make choice of the ripest and
most perfect, of the last years shoots, from twelve to fifteen inches
in length, cutting them off, with an inch or two of the two years old
wood at their base; leaving the tops entiie and uncut. Plant these
cuttings six or eight inches deep, in good soil, and in rows two feet
and a half asunder, and a foot distant from one another in the rows;
here they may remain for two years when they will be in a fine
condition for planting where wanted.

They may also be propagated, by sowing the seed in long narrow
boxes, the beginning of this month, placing them in a hot-bed to
forward their growth; and about the middle of May, remove these
boxes into the shade, where they can have the morning sun till
ten o'clock, and the afternoon sun from four; giving them water
when necessary, and protecting them the winter following from
frost, either, by placing the boxes of plants in the green-house, or
in garden-frames. When a year old they may be planted out as
directed for cuttings, and treated afterwards in the same way. This
will be the best method to obtain new kinds, the seeds of the iniport-
ed figs will grow freely, if properly treated; they are to be covered
when sown only about the eight of an inch deep.

Layers or cuttings are prei< rable to suckers, as they arc not so
subject to produce suckers from their roots, after being finally
planted, as the oihers.

Fig-trees may be trained in half, or whole standards, and plant-
ed, detached, in sheltered, sunny situations; keeping them free
from suckers, permitting their heads to branch regularly around,
and they will produce ripe fruit in good perfection; they produce
more, and better, in a strong dry loamy soil, than in a sandy parch-
ed one, (though in soil they are easily pleased, provided it does not
lodge water;) for when planted in the latter, they are subject to cast
their fruit in May and June, which, under such circumstances, in
some measure, may be prevented by frequent waterings at that
season: where they thrive well, they usually produce two crops in
the seasonj the first on the former year's M'ood, and the second on

March.] THE FRUIT-GARDEN. 219

the young shoots of the present, which is generally the most
abundant.

The following are the varieties of this fruit, that are generally
considered as best worth cultivating, and are placed in the order of
their ripening.

1. The brown or chesnut-coloured Ischia Fig. The fruit is very
large, globular, with a pretty large eye, pinched in near the foot-
stalk, of a brown or chesnut-colour on the outside, and purple with-
in; the grains are large, and the pulp sweet and high flavoured.

2. The black Genoa Fig. This is a long fruit, which swells
pretty large at the top, the lower part slender; the skin of a dark
purple colour, almost black, has a purple farina over it, like that on
some plums; the inside is of a bright red, and the flesh is very
highly flavoured.

3. The small white early Fig. This has a roundish fruit a little
flatted at the crown, with a short foot-stalk; skin, when ripe, of a
pale yellowish colour, and thin; the inside white, flesh sweet, but
not highly flavoured.

4. 1 he large white Genoa Fig. This is a large globular fruit, a
little lengthened towards the stalk; skin, thin, of a yellowish colour
when ripe, and flesh red.

5. The black Ischia Fig. Fruit short, middle sized, a litted flat-
ted at the crown; skin, almost black, when ripe; flesh of a deep red,
and highly flavoured.

6. The Malta Fig. Fruit small, compressed at the top; greatly
pinched towards the foot-stalk; skin, a pale brown colour; flesh, the
same, and very sweet.

7. The Murrey, or brown Naples Fig. Fruit, large and globu-
lar, of a light brown colour, with some faint marks of a dirty
white; flesh, nearly of the same colour, and well flavoured; grains,
large.

8. The green Ischia Fig. Fruit, oblong, almost globular at the
crown; skin, thin, of a green colour, but when fully ripe, it is
stained through by the pulp, to a brownish cast; flesh, purple, well
flavoured, and will stain linen or paper.

9. The Madonna Fig. Fruit, long, pyramidal, and of a large
size; skin, brown; flesh, a lighter brown, coarse, and of little fla-
vour.

10. The common blue, or purple Fig. Fruit, purple, oblong, and
small; the tree, a great bearer and very hardy.

1 1. The long brown Naples Fig. Fruit, long, somewhat compres-
sed at the crown; foot-stalks, pretty long; skin, of a dark brown, when
fully ripe; grains, large; flesh, inclined to red, and well flavoured.
The leaves of this tree are deeply divided.

12. The yellow Ischia Fig. Fruit, large, of a pyramidal form;
skin, yellow when ripe; flesh, purple, and well flavoured; leaves, ve-
ry large, and not much divided.

13. The small brown Ischia Fig. Fruit, small, of a pyramidal
form, with a very short foot-stalk; skin, of a light brown; flesh, in-
clining to purple, of a very high flavour; leaves, less divided than any
of the other sorts.

220 THE FRUIT-GARDEN. [March,

14. The Gentile Fig. Fruit, middle sized, globular; skin,
when ripe, of a yellow colour; grains, large, and flesh well fla-
voured.

The preceding are all the varieties of the Ficus Carica, or com-
mon Fig-tree. There are upwards of fifty other species of Fig, de-
scribed by Botanists; but these are generally cultivated, either on
account of their timber, or as curiosities.

1 have been the more diffuse on this article, as the cultivation of
the Fig, and its different varieties, are not as well known in the Uni-
ted States, as other kinds of fruit-trees; and as it may be cultivated
in the greatest perfection, particularly in the southern states.

Heading down Fruit-Trees.

For the method of pruning and heading down the various kinds
of fruit-trees, which have shewn symptoms of decay, in order to at-
tempt their restoration to health and bearing, see the Orchard this
month.

Preserving the Blossoms, and young Fruit, of Wall and Espalier

Trees.

It often happens, that at too early a period in spring, we have a for-
ward and untimely vegetation, which throws our early blooming
fruit trees, especially those in warm situations, into a full blow of
blossoms, which, if afterwards attacked by frost, proves their destruc-
tion. In such cases some of the choicer kinds of wall and espalier
trees, should be defended therefrom, with mats. Sec,

The mats for this purpose should be of the largest size: one end
of them should be fastened with nails or hooks to the top of the wall,
and let them hang down over the trees. The lower end of the mat
should also be fastened down, to prevent their being blown to and
fro by the wind, which would beat the blossoms off".

When the weather is mild, the mats should be taken off": for it is
only at night, in sharp frosts, and cutting frosty windS) that the blos-
soms require to be thus sheltered.

Or, to preserve the blossoms and young fruit, you may occasion-
ally stick the trees with the cuttings of hardy ever-green trees and
shrubs, sticking them between the branches in a somewhat spread-
ing manner, so as the leaves may afford some protection to the blos-
som, and which I have found to be often very serviceable.

This should also be done just when the trees are coming into
blossom, having cuttings of the shoots and small branches of laurel,
yew, pine and some other hardy ever-greens, preserving the leaves
to them; and being placed between the branches in the manner be-
fore observed, so as to shelter those which are in blossom; they must
be permitted to remain constantly till the fruit is fairly set, as big
as large peas.

March.] THE FRUIT-GARDEN. 221

Planting Fruit Trees.

Fruit trees, of all kinds, may De planted any time this month,
when the weather is open, with success, but the sooner in the
month the better, before they begin to shoot; they will now take
root in a short time; and, with the assistance of a little water in dry-
weather, will grow freely

Let every kind be planted at proper distances, both for espaliers
and walls, and also in standards, that they may have room to grow-
without interfering with each other in the course of a few years;
which is often the case in many gardens, more particularly with
wall trees and espaliers.

Peaches, nectarines, and apricots, should never be planted nearer
than fifteen feet asunder, against walls or espaliers; nor need they
be planted more than eighteen or twenty feet distant.

Apples and pears for walls and espaliers, should be planted fif-
teen, to eighteen or twenty feet asunder; but, in some cases,
twenty-five feet is a more eligible distance, especially for some sorts
of free-shooting pears; though it appears considerable at first, yet
if grafted. &c. upon free stocks, they will readily fill that space,
and bear considerably better, than if confined, so as to require to be
often shortened to continue them within bounds; however, gene-
rally allow those on dwarf stocks not less than fifteen feet, the others
eighteen or twenty feet distance.

Plums and cherries, designed for walls and espaliers, should be
planted from fifteen, to eighteen or twenty feet distance.

The above distances, advised in planting the different sorts of
wall and espalier trees, appear great, when the trees are first plant-
ed; but, in a few years, the advantage of allowing them proper
room will be manifest; and it should be observed to allow trees
planted against low walls a greater distance, than for higher, in or-
der that, in default of height, there may be proper scope to extend
them horizontally.

For the particular soil and situation proper for the different kinds,
see the Fruit-Garden in October and JVov ember; and also the
Orchard^ in this month.

Having the ground previously well prepared, open a ivide hole
for every tree, about a spade deep, or according to the size of the
root and loosen the bottom well. Then prune the roots of the tree;
that is, cut off bruised or broken parts, and trim the ends a little
of all the very long straggling roots in general, prune out irregular
shoots of the head, then place the tree in the hole; break the earth
well, and throw it in equally about the roots, and when all is in, tread
the surface gently around the tree.

New planted fruit-trees, should be well secured from the violence
of the wind; if ihey are all standards, in exposed situations, let them
be supported with stakes; and if wall-trees, &c. with largish heads,
planted against walls and espaliers, fasten their main branches
thereto.

222 THE FRUIT-GARDEN. [March.

UT" As the seasons for planting out fruit and other trees, differ
so much in the climates of the United States, and even in the same
place in different seasons, the only sure guide is, to plant all kinds
cjf trees as soon as their buds begm to swell, or rather a little be-
fore.

Gooseberries and Currants.

Prune gooseberry and currant bushes, where they are not yet
done; but let this work be finished the beginning of the month.

Keep the branches thin, and the middle of the trees open, and
clear of wood, so as to admit the sun and air freely; by which
means the fruit will be large and well tasted. Observe the rules
exhibited in January, page 32, February, page 138; and also in
October.

From the beginning to the middle of this month, is a good time
to plant gooseberry or currant trees; the former particularly re-
quire rich ground, plenty of manure, frequent culture about the
plants, and to be kept on one stem. The best form for a well
trained standard gooseberry, or currant, is that of a wine glass; if
you expect good fruit, you must be particular to keep them free
from suckers.

Manure and dig the ground between the gooseberry and currant
trees, which, as they are just advancing in bud, will now be of
great service, in promoting a plentiful production of large good
fruit.

For the best methods of propagating gooseberries, and currants,
see the work of the JVursery, for this month.

Pruning and planting Raspberries.

Prune raspberries when not done before, agreeably to the direc-
tions given last month, page 139; let this be done as early in the
month as possible.

You may now make new plantations of raspberries, where wanted.
Observe, that is the young shoots or suckers, which arise every
summer from the old roots, that are to be chosen for this purpose.
These should be planted in good ground, and in an open situation;
if you dig in some rotten manure, it will be of considerable service
to the plants, and promote a production of large fruit.

In choosing the plants for this plantation, observe to select the
outward young suckers, of strong and robust growth, all of last
summer's production; not less than two feet, but the more eligible
if from three to five feet long, with strength in proportion — digging
them up with full roots, preferring those with roots the most fibrous,
for this is material in those plants; and as, sometimes, one, two, or
more buds, appear formed on the root near the bottom of the stem,
for next summer's shoots, such plants, are particularly to be chosen,
if to be had.

Previous to planting, shorten the shoots, cutting off about one
fourth of their length, trim the roots, and cut away any old stumps

March.] THE FRUIT-GARDEN. 223

or hard woody parts, annexed thereto; then plant them in rows four
feet and a half asundtr, and from two to three feet distant in the
rows; they will produce some fruit next summer and more abund-
antly the second year, &c.

Dit^ the s'ound between your old plantations of raspberries, after
pruiiing, taking out the suckers, &c. as directed last month.

Dio'sins: the Fruit-Tree Borders.

Dig the fruit-tree borders, as early in this month as you find the
ground to work freely, previously giving them a good dressing of
Well rotted manure. This will be serviceable to the trees, the bor-
ders will appear neat, and be ready to receive any sntiall crops, which
may be proper to sow or plant therein.

Strawberries.

The strawberry plants will now begin to push, therefore the
sooner they receive their spring dressing, after the weather becomes
tolerably favourable the better.

Clear the beds from weeds, and the plants from decayed leaves,
and old runners: it is most adviseable to keep the plants in single
bunches, clear of each other, so that there may be room to hoe be-
tween, and occasionally to dig round them, with a narrow spade, or
trowel; by which means they will fruit in much better perfection,
than if crowded together.

The beds being cleared from litter, loosen the earth between the
plants; and if you add a little fresh earth from the alleys, &c. to the
beds, drawing it close to the plants, it will greatly strengthen them,
and cause them to flower strong and bear plentifully.

Strawberries may be planted about the middle or latter end of the
month, but if planted in September, or early in October, they would
bear fruit the summer following; not but those planted now, will
take root freely, and bear some fruit, but they will be few in com-
parison to those of the autumn planting; however next year they
will bear abundantly.

The proper sets for planting are the young offsets, and runner-
plants of the last summer, which procure of the strongest stocky
growth, from beds of good plants, that are in full perfection forbear*,
ing, and not from worn-out stools, taking them up with good roots.

Prepare for these plants, a piece of good ground, either in the
main quarters, or in the borders; if loamy the better; and let some
rotten dung be dug in. If in the main quarters, divide the ground into
beds, four feet wide, with alleys eighteen inches wide between them,
or they may be planted in continued rows in the borders. Plant the
strawberries of the scarlet kind, fifteen inches asunder, and allow the
same distance between plant and plant in the rows. But the large
kinds, such as the hautboy, and Chili, should be planted eighteen
inches distant every way.

The Alpine or prolific strawberry, should likewise be planted
Afteen or eighteen inches distant every way, that there may be

224 THE ORCHARD. [MaAch.

room for their runners to spread and take root, this kind of straw-
berry, being different in its manner of bearing, from the others;
for the runners often yield the largest and fairest fruit; this kind
continues bearing ripe fruit, from the latter end of May, to October.
A farther supply of bearing strawberry plants, in pots, may still be
placed in hot beds, and hot-houses, 8cc. to produce a succession of
early fruit, and to afford a sufficient supply till those in the open
ground ripen.

Forcing Fruit-Frees.

Continue the care of fruit trees now forwardingin hot-walls, and
forcing-houses; such as peaches, nectarines, cherries, vines, &c.
let the fires be made every cold afternoon, and morning, but regu-
larly at night; and as the season advances in heat, and the sun's
power increases, diminish the fires, and admit more air: occasion-
al waterings will be very necessary to encourage the fruit to swell
and grow freely; but be very particular towards the latter end of
the month, when the sun gets powerful, to admit air in proportion,
and to manage the plants in every respect as directed in February^
page 140.

THE ORCHARD.

Pruning.

FINISH pruning, of all kinds of fruit-trees, as early in this
month as possible, according to the rules laid down under the head
Orchard in January and Febriiary; to which I refer you for that, as
well as other useful information.

In those parts of the Union, where the winter is very severe,
and the weather changeable, autumnal pruning of fruit-trees is not
adviseable, particularly of stone fruit; for by pruning at that sea-
son, especially, if many limbs are cut off, you are apt to bring on
the canker. The exposure of the wounds, the almost dormant state
of the sap, together with the additional check to its slow, but cer-
tain ascent to the extremities, occasioned by the amputation of
limbs, Sec predispose to mortification; whereas in early spring,
when the sap may be expected soon to follow the knife, the lips will
quickly grow and heal over.

It is universally admitted, that the sap continues to flow, though
slowly, in the milder parts of the winter days, and that it must
rise continually during the winter months in ever-green trees,

March.] THE ORCHARD. 225

otherwise their foliage would wither; and also in deciduous trees
(that is such as shed their leaves in winter); because the branch of
an ever-green tree, will grow on a deciduous tree, and not lose its
leaves in winter, as the Prunus Lauro-Cerasus, or European laurel,
on a cherry; and the ever-green oak, on a common oak.

When pruning is judiciously done, and at a proper time, if
the branches are small, a fresh bark and fresh wood, will in one
season completely cover the wounds; but if large, a time propor-
tionate to the size, will be necessary for their covering and healing;
this process however, is much accelerated by the application of a
proper composition, which excludes the air and wet, protects the
wounds from the effects of the various changes of the wea.her, the
surrounding bark from any injury by insects or worms, and yields to
its growth: all these ends vvill be effectually answered, by an appli-
catien of the medicated tar prescribed in page 47; and applied as
there directed.

The f -llowing compositions have been much spoken of: I shall
therefore, publish them without any comments on their virtues,
leaving the result to the experience of those who have, or shall have
tried them; however, I must observe, that the methods of pruning
old or decayed trees, recommended by Mr. Forsyth, and accom-
panying his instructions for making the composition, are very judi-
cious, and should be duly attended to, whatever composition may be
determined on, for use afterwards.

Royal Gardens, Kensington, May 11, 1791.

Directions for mafcinff a Comfiosition for curing Diseases, Defect^.^
and Injuries, in all kinds of Fruit and Forest-Trees, and the me-
thod of firefmring the Trees and laying on the Comlxosiiion, by
William Forsyth.

" TAKE one bushel of fresh cow dung, half a bushel of lime
rubbish of old buildings, (that from the ceilings of rooms is prefer-
able), half a bushel of wood ashes, and a sixteenth part of a bushel of
pit or river sand: The three last articles are to be sifted fine before
they are mixed; then work them well together with a spade, and af-
terwards with a wooden beater, until the stuff is very smooth, like
fine plaster used for the ceilings of rooms.

" The composition being thus made, care must be taken to pre-
pare the tree properly for its application, by cutting away all the
dead, decayed, and injured part, till you come to the fresh sound
wood, leaving the surface of the wood very smooth, and rounding
off" the edges of the bark with a draw-knife, or other instrument,
perfectly smooth, which must be particularly attended to; then
lay on the plaster about one eighth of an inch thick, all over the
part where the wood or bark has been so cut away, finishing off the
edges as thin as possible: then take a quantity of dry powder of
wood ashes mixed with a sixth pj.rt of the same quantity of the
ashes of burnt bnnes; put it into a tm box, with holes in the top,
and shake the powder on the surface of the plaster, til! the whole

2 F

226 T^'HE ORCHARD. [March.

is covered over with it, letting it remain for half an hour, to absorb
the moisture; then apply more powder, rubbing it on gently with
the hand, and repeating the application of the powder till the whole
plaster becomes a dry smooth surface.

" All trees cut down near the ground, should have the surface
made quite smooth, rounding it off in a small degree, as before
mentioned; and the dry powder directed to be used afterwards
should have an equal quantity of powder of alabaster mixed with
it, in order the better to resist the dripping of trees and heavy
rains.

" If any of the composition be left for a future occasion, it should
be kept in a tub, or other vessel, and urine of any kind poured on it,
so as to cover the surface; otherwise the atmosphere will greatly
hurt the efficacy of the application.

" Where lime rubbish of old buildings cannot be easily got,
take pounded chalk, or common lime, after having been slacked a
month at least.

" As the growth of the tree will gradually affect the plaster, by
raising up its edges next the bark, care should be taken, where that
happens, to rub it over with the finger when occasion may require
(which is best done when moistened by rain,) that the plaster may
be kept whole, to prevent the air and wet, from penetrating into the
wound."

Mditional directions for making and using the Composition.

" To the foregoing directions for making and applying the com-
position, it is necessary to add the following."

" As the best way of using the composition is found, by experience,
to be in a liquid state, it must, therefore, be reduced to the consis-
tence of pretty thick paint, by mixing it up with a sufficient quantity
of urine and soap-suds, and laid on with a painter's brush. The
powder of wood-ashes and burnt bones, is to be applied as before di-
rected, patting it down with the hand."

" When trees are become hollow, you must scoop out all the rot-
ten, loose, and dead parts of the trunk till you come to the solid
wood, leaving the surface smooth; then cover the hollow, and
every part vvhere the canker has been cut out, or branches lopped
off, with the composition; and, as the edges grow, take care not to
let the new wood come in contact with the dead, part of which it
may be sometimes necessary to leave; but cut out the old dead
wood as the new advances, keeping a hollow between them, to allow
the new wood room to extend itself, and thereby fill up the cavity,
which it will do in time, so as to make as it were a new tree. If
the cavity be large, you may cut away as much at one operation as
will be sufficient for three years. But in this you are to be guided
by the size of the wound, and other circumstances. When the
new wood, advancing from both sides of the wound, has almost met,
cut off the bark from both the edges, that the solid wood may join,
which, if properly managed, it will do, lea\ing only a slight seam
in the bark. If the tree be very much decayed, do not cut away all
the dead wood at once, which would weaken the tree too much, if

March.] THE ORCHARD. 227

a standard, and endanger Us being blown down by the wind. It will,
therefore, be necessary to leave part of the dead wood, at first to
strengthen the tree, and to cut it out by degrees as the new wood is
formed. If there be any canker, or gum-oozing, the infected parts
must be pared off, or cut out with a proper instrument."

" Some months before the publication of the " Observations on
the Diseases, &c. in Fruit and Forest-Trees," I had tried the com-
position in a liquid state, but did not think myself warranted to make
it public until I had experienced its effects through the winter.
The success answered my most sanguine expectations; and I have
used it in that way ever since. By using the composition in a li-
quid state, more than three-fourths of the time and labour is
saved; and I find it is not so liable to be thrown off as the lips grow,
as when laid on in the consistence of plaster; it adheres firmly to
the naked part of the wound, and yet easily gives way as the new
wood and bark advances."

" The first time that I tried the composition in a liquid form was
upon an elm which had been planted about twenty years. It had
been very much bruised by the roller, had several cavities in it, and
was very much bark-bound besides. Having prepared the wounds,
and applied the composition with a painter's brush, I took my knife
and scarified the tree in four places; I also shaved off, with a draw-
knife, all the cankcry outer bark, and covered the whole tree with
the composition, shaking the powder of wood-ashes and burnt bones
all over it. A very heavy rain began in the evening and continued
all night; yet, to my great surprize, in the morning, I found that
only some of the powder, which had not had time to dry and incor-
porate with the composition, was washed off. I now repeated the
powder, and without any thing more being done to the tree, the
wounds healed up and the bark was restored so completely, that,
three years ago, it could hardly be discerned where the wounds had
been. The scarifications had also disappeared. Some of the wounds
were thirteen inches long, eight broad, and three deep. Since the
time when it was scarified, the tree has increased ten inches more
in circumference than a healthy tree planted at the same time with
it about sixteen feet distant, which was not scarified.

Barnes's Composition.

" Melt together in a large earthen pipkin, two pound and a half
of common pitch, and half a pound of common turpentine, then put
in three quarters of an ounce of powder of aloes, stir them all to-
gether and set the matter on fire; when it has flamed a moment,
cover it up close and it will go out, then melt it well and fire it again
in the same way, this must be repeated three times (in the open air;)
after it has burned the last time melt it again, and put in three
ounces of yellow wax, shred very thin; and six drachms of mastick
in powder; let it all melt together till perfectly well mixed, then
strain it through a coarse cloth, and set it by to cool."

" When you use this composition, melt a small piece of it, and let
it cool till it is just sufficiently soft to spread on the part where
wanted, but it must not be laid on very hot,"

22S fHE ORCHARD. [March.

When any of your old fruit-trees, which you particularly esteem,
appear on the decline, and are grown thin of youris^ wood, you may
probably restore them, by heading down such limbs as are in the
worst staie, to those parts where young shoots appear, and close to the
moat vigorous; but be careful not to do this generally, the same
season, for that would give too sudden a check to the >ap, and in all
probabiiity destroy the tree totally But if every other branch all
over the tree were headed at proper lengths, each close to ome
young shf)Ot, new healthy wood would be produced, which Mould
soon come into bearing. The next spring after the first branches
■were headed, the remaining old branches may be cut out, as f'irected
above; after which, the head of the tree will be soon fillrd wiiD bear-
ing wood, which may afterwards be pruned as dir«»cted for other
trees. This may be practiced on either standard, wall, or espalier
trees.

Peaches and nectarines will require to be treated with more cau-
tion than any other kinds; never head them lower down than you
find young shoots or healthy branches, otherwise yon will endanger
their lives; and always cut close to the most vigorous of these, in or-
der that the sap may be drawn that way, by which the wounds will
heal and cover over. Indeed this caution will be generally useful,
but more particularly with these.

When any of the trunks of your trees become hollow, cut out all
the loose rotten wood, and also examine the roots, cutting off the in-
jured, rotten, or decayed parts.

As you proceed in pruning, apply to the wounds either of the pre-
ceding compositions which you prefer, in the manner directed; but
if your trees are annoyed with worms, the inedicated tar is decided-
ly preferable.

Examine now your fruit-trees, particularly the peaches; and
if annoyed by worms either in their trunks, branches, about the
surface of the ground, and a little under; pick out as many as you
can with a sharp-pointed knife, and with as little injury to the bark
as possible; scrape off clean, all the gum that appears on the stem,
or branches, and wash all these parts, and any other that you
suspect to be infested with these insects or their embryos, with
the corrosive solution described in page 142, which you may make
twice or three times as strong as there directed, without the least
fear of its injuring the tree; then dress the wounded parts with the
medicated tar, as there directed.

I have at the present time (January 1805,) and have had for seve-
ral weeks, the roots of Polyanthus-Narcissuses, hyacinths, and other
bulbs, growing in bulb-glasses, filled with a much stronger solution
of the corrosive sublimate, than that prescribed in page 142, and
apparently in more health and vigour, than those which are growing
in pure water: 1 have also washed the leaves, stems and branches,
of various kinds of tender plants with it, and poured it on the earth
about their roots in large quaniities, without any other effect, than
the destruction of the earth worms, and those which annoyed the
plants.

March.] THE ORCHARD. 229

Be very cautious, not to leave any of the corrosive sublimate, or
solution, in a careless manner in or about the house, for. with re-
spect to animal life, it is a very active poison; so powertul, that
when administered medicinally, the quarter of a grain, being the
two hundred and fortieth part of a drachm, is considered a sufficient
dose for an adult person.

Extent, Aspect, Situation, and Soil.

The extent of an Orchard should be in proportion to the quantity
of fpuit required, either for family use, distillation, cyder, &c.
or for public supply; and may be from half an acre, to a hundred
acres, or more.

As to aspect, that is not of as much importance as some people
imagine, especially for apple, pear and other hardy fruit-trees; for
you will find these growing and bearing fruit in the greatest perfec-
tion, in every aspect where the soil is suitable, and proper care
taken of the trees; but the more tender and early flowering fruits,
such as peaches and nectarines, &c. will require to be planted,
where they may have protection from the cold north and north-
westerly winds; which, when acconipained by frost, often do con-
siderable injury to their early bloom; and likewise, it will be ne-
cessary to give a warm exposure, especially in the eastern and mid-
dle states, to late ripening kinds, such as the heath-peach, &c. in
order to bring their fruit to maturity in due season.

In the southern states, a north aspect will be the most eligible for
apple trees, and perhaps for several other kinds.

With respect to situation, very thriving Orchards are frequently
found, on high and low grounds, on declivities and plains, in various
aspects and exposures; but this is in consequence of the natural
soil being good: you should, however, avoid very low damp situa-
tions, particularly such as lodge water; for in very wet soils, no
fruit trees uill prosper, nor will the fruit produced in such places
be good; but a moderately low situation, free from wet, may-
be more eligible than an elevated ground, as being less exposed to
tempestuous winds; but, if having a gentle declivity, the more
desirable.

A proper soil being the grand and essential requisite, should be
carefully selected, for on this depends much of your success; a
good deep sandy loam, neither too dry, nor wet, is the most suitable
for all kinds of fruit-trees, and whether this be on high or low si-
tuations, it should be prefened to every other. In the heaviest
part of this ground, you may plant apples and pears; in the lighter,
plums and cherries; and in the lightest, peach, nectarine and
apricots. Generally speaking, ground that will produce good crops
of natural grass, or kitchen-garden vegetables, is suitable for an
Orchard; if of a loamy nature, it will be a particular advantage:
any soil, however, of a gor)d quality, not too light and dry, nor
too heavy, stubborn, or wet, and not less than one spade deep of
good staple, will be proper for this purpose.

230 f HE ORCHARD. [March.

Where the soil is naturally defective, such may be assisted by
the application of proper manures and composts; applying them
to the whole ground, if but of moderate extent, or. if extensive,
to the place where each tree is to stand, for a space of eight or ten
feet in diameter, working it up with the natural soil.

This trouble, however, in extensive Orchards, would be very ex-
pensive; therefore, those who have choice of ground, should be
very careful to fix upon a proper soil, such as would require but
little assistance.

Preparation of the Ground.

The preparation of the ground, for the reception of fruit-trees,
is either by digging a spacious place for each tree, a general trench-
ing of the ground, or by ploughing it. If the latter kind of prepa-
I'ation is intended, and that the ground has been under pasture for
some years; you should plough the green sward the spring before
you plant the trees, and also two or three times in the course of the
summer following, to rot the sward, pulverize the earth, and to pre-
vent the growth of weeds.

Early in October you should plough it again, very deep, running
the plough twice in each furrow, in order to make it deep and
loose for the roots of the trees; which, should be planted therein,
in the course of the same or next month; but if the soil be moist,
March will be a much better season.

Or you may plough as above, eight or ten feet wide for each row
of trees, leaving the remainder of the ground untouched.

In planting Orchards on a grass ground, in very good soil, you
may dig a hole for each tree capacious enough for the easy recep-
tion of all the roots loosening the bottom well, without disturbing
any other part of the ground: but when it is trenched either
wholly, or some considerable width along the place of each row
of trees, it will consequently prove of disproportionate advantage.

Your Orchard should get a good dressing of manure, once in two
or three years, whether under crops of grain, or grass; this will
prove very serviceable to the trees, and also more than repay your
expences, in the abundance of the succeeding crops. If the ground
is suffered to be exhausted by successive crops of fruit, and grass or
grain, without refreshing it occasionally by manure, it will soon,
if not extremely fertile, become unfit to produce either.

Tillage is favourable to the growth of young trees; whereas in
grass-ground their progress is comparatively slow, for want of the
earth being stirred about their roots, and being frequently injured
by grazing stock. Where circumstances will allow, it is best to
plant fruit-trees on newly broken-up ground, and to cultivate the
soil (refreshing it with manure as often as necessary), until the
trees are well grown; then to lay it down to grass; for after that
period the shade of the trees would do less injury to it, than to any
other crop, and besides, the pending boughs would render tillage
inconvenient.

March.] THE ORCHARD. 231

Choice of Trees, Sfc.

If not provided with trees in your own Nursery, you must apply
to some public Nursery-man of integrity, who will not deceive you
in the varieties of the kinds wanted: observe, in the first place, that
the trees are healthy and fresh looking, without any blemishes, or
appearance of canker, or worms, in the bark; that they have been
raised at proper distances, and not drawn up spindling; that their
heads are well formed and well furnished; that their stems are
stout, proportionate to their heads, straight, clean, and from five
to six feet high, from the surface, to the spreading of the branches;
that they are not more than from two to four years old, from the
bud or graft, and that all have been worked; that is, budded, or
grafted, for otherwise, there would be no certainty of having good
fruit, and besides, they would be much longer coming into bearing.

These are important objects, and such as you cannot be deceived
in. Never make choice of larger trees, nor higher in the stems
than six feet, especially for general plantations, for they never thrive
as well as young trees, and are subject to be dashed about by the
wind after planting.

The next object is to see them taken up with care, so as to pre-
serve all their roots as entire as possible; when taken up, prune off
any broken or bruised parts of the roots; shorten long stragglers,
and top the ends of the principal roots in general, with the knife;
always observing to prune these roots on the under side, and sloping
outwards.

Let several varieties of each particular kind be chosen, such
as ripen their fruit at different periods from the earliest to the lat-
est, especially when they are wanted for the table; but by much a
greater number of autumnal and late-ripening kinds, than of the
early sorts, particularly of the apples; for the early ripening fruits,
are of short duration, and only proper for temporary service. When
you want apples or peaches for distillation, or cider-making, choose
proper juicy kinds for that purpose, and quantities proportionate
to your intentions.

Method of Planting.

If the trees have been already trained, so as to have full branch-
ing heads, they must be planted with those entire, only retrenching
or shortening any irregular, or ill placed branches or shoots, that
take an awkward direction, or that grow across others, or such as
run considerably longer than the generality of the others; either
cutting them clean off, close to the places from whence they pro-
ceed, or to some young shoot or small leading branch, as may ap-
pear most eligible, for giving the tree an open spreading form, leav-
ing no stumps or spurs.

Should you not be able to procure trees, having furnished and
well formed heads, and that you are obliged to take such as are thin
of wood, and running up tall; plant them, having their roots dress-

232 THE ORCHARD. [March.

ed as before, but without touching their heads, for the present. So
soon after planting as their buds bei^in to push, head them down
to within six. eight, or ten inches of the place where you wish them
to branch out for forming their heads; they will then throw out
young vigorous shoots, which you may afterwards train and thick-
en, or make thin ai pleasure, by judicious pruning in the following
years; or should any of these young shoots in the course of the
succeeding months, take too great a lead of ihe others, you may
top them in July, which will stop their rampant growth, and cause
them to throw out side shools that will still enlarge a foundation for
numerous branches, and not carry off too much of the sap from
the others.

Should it happen that any of your trees, have large heads and
but few or scanty roots; reduce their lops, by a select and judicious
pruning, to a due proportion with their roots; for an Ox, fed only
through a wren's quill, could not long exist. This, will seldom
happen, unless by accident, or carelessness in the taki g of them
up; provided, they are raised at proper distances, in the Nursery.

The arrangement of the trees in the Orchard should be in rows,
each different kind of fruit separate, and at distances proporiionate
to the nature of their growths. Apple and pear trees may be planted
at fifty feet distance, every way; cherry and plum, at from thirty to
forty; peach, nectarine, apricot, almonds, and quinces, at from
twenty-five to thirty feet; and at still greater distances, if you are
not limited in extent of suitable ground, and that you intend to raise
various crops between the trees.

You should have great regard to the distance of planting the
trees, which is what few people have rightly considered; for if you
plant them too close, they will be liable to blights; the air being
thereby pent in among them, will also cause the fruit to be ill tast-
ed; for a great quantity of damp vapours from the prespiration
of the trees, and the exhalation from the earth mixed with it,
will be imbibed by the fruit, and render their juices crude and un-
wholesome; besioes, it is the opinion of some we41 informed
naturalists, and orchardists, that these vapours and prespiration of
the trees, collect the heat of the sun, and reflect it in streams, so as
to cause what is called a fire-blast; which, is extremely hurtful to
fruit, and most frequent, where the Orchards are open to the south
sun.

Having your trees in readiness, proceed lo stake or mark out the
ground, according to the above, or greater distances, placing a small
stake or mark, where each hole is to be made, for the reception of the
trees; which if made to rcmge every luaxj, will have a very agreea-
ble effect, admit the currency of air and sun's influence more,effectu-
ally, and make the Orchard still more convenient for tillage.

A wide circular hole must be dug for every tree, capacious enough
to receive all the roots freely without touching the sides; but by no
means of a greater depth than the natural good soil: if you
make a deep hole, bason like, into the clay bottom, or unfriendly,
sub-soil, which is too frequently done, and plant the roots therein,
even filling it round with good earth will not do, for as soon as it

March.] THE ORCHARD. 233

pushes it roots beyond this, they must enter into the bad and un-
friendly soil, which will not fail to bring on the decay of the most
healthy tree, and can never afford it suitable juices for perfecting
delicious fruit; besides the lodgment of water about the roots in
this confined bason, in wet seasons, will cause the tree to become
sickly, and to get overrun with moss, and full of canker.

When the holes are all ready, proceed to planting, placing a tree
in each, having its roots trimmed as before, one person holding the
stem erect, whilst another casts in the earth, previously breaking it
small; let it be settled in equally between all the roots, by gently
and frequently shaking the ti'ee a little up and down, which will
cause the mould to settle in close about all the small roots and
fibres; and also to raise the tree gradually up, that the crown of the
roots may not be more than about three or four inches below the
general surface even in the deepest soil. When the hole is filled
up, tread it gently, first round the outside, then near the stem of
the tree; forming the surface a little hollow, to admit of giving
water, if found necessary, with more convenience; and if on the
top of all is laid some inverted turf, to the width of the holes, form-
ing it into a sort of circular bank, it will support the tree, and guard
the roots from powerful heat, drought and parching winds; observ-
ing that each tree stands perfectly upright, and that they range ex-
actly in their proper rows.

Should the earth be rather shallow, so that you cannot cover the
roots a sufficient depth with good soil, you must have some hauled,
for that purpose, to where each tree is to be planted, or collected to
such places, from the general surface, and bank the roots around
therewith; for there is no alternative, between planting them in the
good soil, where their roots can take a wide extended horizontal di-
rection, and lie within the reach of the genial influence of heat,
rain, dew and air, and that of an untimely end, if planted too deep.

When you desire to remove large trees, of any kind, the best
method will be, to open trenches about their roots, immediately pre-
vious to the setting in of the frosts, leaving as much earth around
them, as you think can be conveniently moved or carried with the
trees, cutting at a proper distance the large wide spreading roots,
and leaving only as many uncut as are sufficient to prevent their
being blown down; when you find the earth sufficiently bound by
the frost, work in under, and take them up with the balls, place
them on a sled, and so carry them to their place of destination:
previous to planting, smooth all the wounded parts, and prune or
thin their tops, in proportion to their loss of roots.

When a defect in an old Orchard, is to be supplied, it will be neces-
sary, to take away the earth where the old tree stood, to a proper
depth, and to the extent of a circle of ten feet in diameter, which
fill up with fresh earth previous to planting; for it seldom happens,
without this management, that young trees thrive, when planted
where old disordered ones stood.

If the Orchard is much exposed to winds, it will be proper to
stake the new planted trees to support them in their proper posi-
tion, and secure them from being rocked to and fro thereby, which

2 G

234 THE VINEYARD. [Mahch.

would greatly retard their rootings; placing one or two strong tall
stakes to each tree; but in large trees, the most effectual method
is to have three stakes to each, placed in a triangle, meeiing at top
near the head of the tiee wrapping a hay-band round that part of
the stem, to prevent its being barked by the stakes, or tying; then
tie the stakes at top, close to the tree, with some proper bandage,
bringing it close about the stem and stakes together, over the hay-
wrapping, to secure the tree fir" ly in an erect posture.

If your young Orchard is laid down with grass, no cattle should
be turned into it to gr.ze at large; unless each tree is previously
well secured with posts and railing, otherwise they will bark the
trees to their very gre t injury, and eat off the tops of such of their
young shoots as they can reach; nor should large cattle be turned
into any Orchards where the branches of the trees are yet low, and
within their reach.

Where great quantities of fruit are wanted, lar8:e avenues of apple,
pear, peach and cherry trees, &c. may be extended across neigh-
bouring fields, which, will render them pleasant, and produce abun-
dance of fruit; or there may be single rows planted to surround
fields, &CC. which will be found extremely profitable, if in an honest
neighbourhood.

You may now plant the boundaries of large Orchards with
English walnuts and Spanish chesnuts; these will not only afford
you an abundance of fruit, but protect the trees in general, from the
power of tempestuous winds. A small quarter of the Orchard may be
allotted to filberts, mulberries, medlars, berberries. Sec. and this is a
proper time for planting them.

For the method of raising and propagating all kinds of fruit-trees,
&c. see the A^ursery for this and the preceding month; and also
July.

THE VINEYARD.

The Vitis vinifeba, or common wine-yielding Vinc^ is a native
of the warmer regions of Asia: it is found to be most successful in
the temperate ciimates, or between the 30th and 50th degrees of
north, and south latitudes.

It is cultivctted in the greatest perfection in the Island of Madeira
lat. 32° North; and in every part of Europe as far north as the
fiftieth degree of latitude; also at the Cape of (iood Hope about lat.
33" 50' South, as well as in every corresponding parallel, in Asia ^nd
the civilized parts of Africa: yet there are people among us, who
seem to despair of its being possible to cultivate it successfully in the
United States, and who by this kind of despondency publicly ex-

March.] THE VINEYARD. 235

pressed, discountenance its cultivation. We have similar climates
and as suitable soil and situations, as are to be found in any of the
countries where this plant is culiivated, and vi^hat to attribute this
infidelity to. I am at a loss to know. What do they perceive insalu-
brious in the air, or unfriendly to vegetable life in the soil of Ameri-
ca, any more than in trans-atlantic countries; or are they led astray
by prejudiced European writers, whose envy, or want of knowledge,
or perhaps both, had prompted them to assert, that neither animals
or vegetables arrive at as good or as great perfection in America, as
in Europe? However, a little time and some industry, will show that
this prejudice is erroneous, and that the Vine.^ can be cultivated, in
the far greater part of the Union,, to immense national, as well as in-
dividual advantage.

The Vine was originally introduced into Europe from Jsia minor;
and even in the days of LucuUus^ the Romans were seldom able to
regale themselves with its juice, very little wine being made at that
time within the compass of Italy; and the foreign wines which
they imported from Ada, were so dear, that they were rarely intro-
duced at an entertainment, and when they were, each guest was
indulged only with a single draught. But in the seventh century
of Rome, as their conquests augmented the degree of their wealth,
this luxury was sought after with avidity, and wines became the
object of partieular attention. In the progress of their conquests,
the westerly parts of the European continent, was at once subjected
to the Arms and enriched with the Vines, of Italy; its cultivation
went on but slowly for some time, in these countries, where it has
since become a staple article of great national importance, perhaps,
occasioned by the same kind of doubts, fears, prejudices, and appre-
hensions, that now operate against it, in the United States; but
these at length were surmounted, by the industry of a few culti-
vators, who had penetration enough to perceive its practicability,
and who, no doubt, were amply remunerated, in consequence of
being first in market with large quantities: others perceiving their
fortunate success, copied their examples, in expectation of obtaining
like profits. Similar to this will be its progress in America, and
those who first commence the business by planting on an extensive
scale, will assuredly reap the richest harvests.

The culture of the Vine will for some time be an experimental
business with us; however, the first object is to obtain the kinds
that will immediately, or soonest, accommodate themselves to the
different regions of the Union; perhaps those from Madeira, or the
Cape of Good Hope, would best suit in the southern states, those;
from the south of Europe, in the middle, and those from Bur-
gundy, Champagne, Switzerland, Bourdeaux, or the banks of the
Rhine, in the eastern states. Trials of this kind should be made,
and the result carefully attended to; and indeed, each and every of
the states, should give a fair trial to the vines of everv country, from
whence they can be procured; by which means, and by which only,
they can discover those best adapted to their respective soils andj
climates.

236 THE VINEYARD. [March.

There is not the least doubt but the Vines of any temperate cli-
mate, can be naturalized in any state in the Union, in a very short
time: for there is an astonishing facility in plants to accommoiiaie
themselves to soil and climate, and in very few more thctn in the
vine. The Helianthus annuus, or common annual sunflower, is a
native of Mexico and Peru; and yet we all know that it now grows
in every part of the Union where introduced, as well as if it were
indigenous. The Helianthus tuberosus, or what is commoni' called
the Jerusalem Artichoke^ is a tropical plant, being a native of Brasil,
and is become naturalized to our climates, as well as to those of Eu-
rope, as far north as St. Petersburg, and perhaps farther. The
Cherry-tree, when first introduced into Italy by Lucul'.us, a Roman
general, from the city of Cerasus, in Pontus, whence its name
Frunua CerasuS) was there treated as a tender exotic; by degrees,
it had crept into Britain, where it was treated for some time in like
manner; and experience now proves, that it thrives in America,
as well as in Italy, Britain, or Pontus itself. Thousands of other
instances could be adduced of the wisdom and goodness of the Cre-
ator, in furnishing plants with those accommodating powers; but
the vine has manifested itself in so many, and so universally, that it
is unnecessary to recapitulate them; yet we frequently meet with
people who say, " it will never succeed here!!"

It may, however, be proper to remark, that where the Peach-tree
perfects its fruit, in open field culture, so will the Vine: the latter
is even capable of bearing greater degrees of heat, and of produc-
ing fruit in perfection, in higher latitudes than the former, mani-
fested by the quantity of wine made in many places in the south
of England, from its productions in open vineyard culture; whilst,
there, they could not have a single peach, from a thousand treesi
cultivated in the same way, principally owing to the want of a suffi-
ciency of summer heat to ripen the young wood; and mild as
their winters are, in comparison to ours, they, under such circum-
stances, generally destroy the pithy and unripened shoots of the
Peach, without doing near so much injury to those of the Vine.
On the other hand, it is well known, that the grape vine will bear
fruit abundantly, year after year, when forced in pine-stoves, with
pine-apples; where, if a peach was introduced, it would scarcely sur-
vive one season, at least it would not produce a single fruit worth
eating the second.

Before entering on the general culture, I shall give a short de-
scription of the varieties of the grape, hitherto cultivated in Europe,
either for making wine, or for the table; many of which are now un-
der trial at the S/iritig'Mill Vineyard, within fourteen miles of Phi-
ladelphia, the property of a company incorporated by the legislature
of Pennsylvania, " for the promotion of the culture of the Vine" and
under the superintendence of Mr. Peter Legaux, an experienced
Vine-dresser, and a gentleman of worth and science.

These I shall divide into three classes, in the order of their ripen-
ing. 1. Those which ripen earliest. 2. Those which succeed
them; and 3, The latest coming to maturity. Perhaps, the first
class might be best adapted for the more immediate culture, in the

March.] THE VINEYARD. 23T

eastern states; the second in the middle; and the third, in the
southern states. But, experiments on all the kinds that it is possible
to procure, should be tried in each state of the Union; giving, at the
same time, suitable soil and situation to each class, according to
their periods of ripening; that is, to give the latest kinds the warm-
est exposure, See.

First Class.

1 . The IV/iite Frontinac, or Muscat Blanc. Is ahigh-flavoured grape,
and has a peculiar rich juice when perfectly ripe; the bunches are
large, and the berries, which are round, are very closely joined to
each other, whereby some of them, in wet seasons, are apt to rot
before they are ripe; which, in some measure, is owing to the thin-
ness of their skins: those who wish to have them in the best perfec-
tion, will thin them out when about the size of peas, whereby the air
will have free admittance, and those which are left, will be larger
and higher flavoured.

2. The Blue, or Violet Frontinac, or Muscat Violet. This has a small
black berry, powdered with a fine blue or violet bloom, and is of an
exalted vinous flavour. The berries grow close upon the bunches,
which are very small.

3. The IVhite Sweet ffater. This is a very large round white
grape. The berries grow close on the bunch, which is of a moderate
size, and are replete with an agreeable juice. The skin and flesh of
this grape are more delicate, than of any other sort. The berries on
the sides of the bunches, next the sun, are clouded with spots of a
russet colour.

4. The Black Sweet Water. The berries of this variety are much
smaller than the former; are black, roundish, grow in small, short,
close bunches, and are replete with a very sweet juice.

5. The Brick Grafie. The berries of this kind are small, inclining
to an oval figure, and of a pale red or brick colour. This is a very
sweet grape, though not much admired.

6. The White Muscadine., or Chasselas Blanc. This is a round
white berry, moderately large, with a thin skin and delicate juicy
flesh. The bunch is well formed, and of pretty good size. This is an
early grape, and a great bearer.

7. The Munier, or Miller's Burgundy Grafie. The berries are
small, black, rather incling to an oval figure, and grow close on the
bunch, which is commonly short and small. The skin and flesh are
delicate, possessing a sweet and pleasant juice. The leaves are dis-
tinguishable from most others by a hoary down, especially when
young, being then almost white. This is an excellent bearer, and a
principal grape to be cultivated for wine.

8. The Small Black Cluster. The berries and bunches of this grape,
are little different from the former; but the leaves have less down,
and are smaller. This is a delicate sweet fruit, and is sometimes
called the Burgundy Grape.

9. The Early Black July Grafie, Morillon JVoir, or Hati/ JVoir.
This has a small black round berry, replete with a sugary juices

238 THE VINEYARD. [March.

the bunches also are small and thin set; but it is a prolific bearer,
and comes to the table at an early period.

10. The Early White Grafie, from Teneriffe. The berries of this
variety are round, white, and of a moderate size, with thin skins and
delicate juicy flesh, of an extraordinary sweetness. The berries and
bunches, much resemble the common Muscadine, to which it ap-
pears to have a near affinity.

1 1. The Auvernat JVoir of Orleans.^ Pineau, of Burgundy^ or True
Burgundy Grafie, sometimes called the Black Morillon, is an indif-
ferent fruit for the table; but is esteemed one of the best for making
wine. It is of a middle size, somev/hat of an oval, and of a fine black
colour; the bunches are longer than Miller's Burgundy.

Second Class.

12. The Mefi/to Grafie. This is a middle sized, roundish grape,
with a thin skin and delicate juicy flesh, of an exquisite vinous fla-
vour. The colour is commonly very various, some of the berries
being white, others black, but the major part are curiously striped
with black and white: but what appears most remarkable is, that
the colours do not intermix, but are divided by straight lines as if
painted. The leaves of this sort are, in the autumn, very curiously-
striped, with red, green, and yellow, somewhat similar to the Alep-
po lettuce.

13. The Grizzly Frontinac. The berries of this grape are round,
tolerably large; and their colour brown and red, intermixed with
yellow. Both this, and No. 1, possess a high, musky, perfumed fla-
vour.

14. The Black or Purfde Frontinac, or Muscat A''oir. The ber-
ries of this variety are black, when ripe, and covered with a kind of
powder, which gives them a purple hue; are moderately large,
round, and of a most exquisite flavour. They compose very long
bunches. This had formerly been called the Red Frontinac, and is
one of the very best grapes. It is called, at the Cape of Good Hope,
the Black Constantia.

15. The Red Frontinac^ or Muscat Rouge. This is a very fine
grape, and greatly esteemed. The berries are of a brick colour, thin
skin, moderate size, and juicy delicate flesh.

16. The Black Hamburg. The berries of this variety are large,
inclining to an oval figure, and of a black colour. They hang
loosely on the bunch, and compose well formed handsome bunches.
The skin is thick, and the pulp hard; but, notwithstanding, it is a
very valuable grape, being a good flavoured fruit and a plentiful
bearer.

17. The Red Hamburg. The berries of this sort are of a dark red,
with thin skins and juicy delicate flesh. The size and figure of both
the berry and bunch, are nearly like the former. It is sometimes
called the Gibraltar Grape.

18 The Malvoise. The berries of this are small, rather in-
clining to an oval figure, and of a brown colour. The skin is thin,
and the flesh delicate, replete with a vinous juice. As the berries

March.] THE VINEYARD. 239

are powdered with a blue bloom, it is sometimes called the Blue
Tokay.

19. The Genuine Tokay. This is a white grape. The berries
incline to an oval figure, and grow rather close on the bunch, which
is ol a iTJoderate size. The skin is thin, and flesh delicate, abounding
wiih a very agreeable juice. This variety is very distinguishable by
the foliage, the under side of the leaf being covered with a fine soft
down, having the appearance of sattin.

20. The Lombardy Grafie. This has a large berry inclining to
an oval figure, of a beautiful flame colour. The bunches are regu-
larly formed with shoulders, and frequently arrive to the weight of
six OP seven pounds. The leaves are much more divided than most
other sorts, and the upper surface is of a deep green colour. This
is by some called the Rhenish Grape, and, by others, the Flame-
coloured Tokay.

21. The Smyrna Grape. This has a large red coloured berry,
of an oval figure, with thin skin and delicate juicy flesh. It forms
long branches with shoulders loosely connected. The leaves in
autumn die with purple edges.

22. The Jticant, or Black Spanish Grape. The berries of this
variety incline to an oval shape, are moderately large and black,
and form exceeding long unshouldered bunches. The flesh is soft,
juicy, and of an agreeable flavour. The leaves in autumn are beau-
tifully variegated with red, green, and yellow. This is a pretty
good fruit, and is sometimes, though incorrectly, called the Lom-
bardy Grape.

23. The Black Muscadine. The berries and bunches of this
variety, are somewhat smaller than those of No. 7. This is a very
prolific grape, and makes a fine appearance, on account of the black
berries being powdered with a bluish bloom; but the flesh is not so
delicate and juicy as the former.

24. The Royal Muscadine^ D^Arboyce^ or Chasselas Blanc. This
has a round white or amber-coloured berry, of a moderate size, a
thin skin, and a juicy soft flesh. The bunches are generally exceed-
ing large, sometimes arriving t© six or seven pounds. This variety
is very distinguishable by the wood and foliage, generally growing
remarkably gross and strong, and is considered an excellent table
grape.

25. The Malmsey Muscadine. This seems nearly allied to the
preceding, but the bunches and berries are somewhat smaller, and
the juice of a higher flavour, being remarkably sweet This is a
good bearer, a very fine grape, and said to be one of those of which
the Madeira Wine is made.

26. The Claret Grafie. The berries of this, are small, black, and
inclining to an oval figure; they grow close, and form small bunches.
The juice is of a blood-red colour, of a harsh taste, excepting the
grapes are perfectly matured, and then it may be considered as an
agreeable and delicate fruit. The leaves change from green to a
russet red early in summer, and die a deep red in autumn.

27. The Large Black Cluster, or Lisbon Grape. The berries are
large and grow more oval than the two former varieties, which are

240 1'HE VINEYARD. [March.

black and not so delicate, the juice being of a harsh and rough taste.
The leaves in autumn, when on the decline, change to a beautiful
bright scarlet. This is the grape of which the red Port-wine is
made.

28. The White Morillon. This has an oval white berry, of a
moderate size, with thin skin and delicate juicy flesh. It grows
close on the bunches, which are small. The leaves are soft, being
greatly covered with down on the under side, somewhat similar to
the genuine Tokay grape, to which it appears nearly allied.

29. Cat's Grafie. This has a small oval berry, of a greenish
white colour, with a thin skin and soft juicy flesh. The berries
grow close, forming small bunches. The taste of this fruit before
it is quite matured, is disagreeable, but, when perfectly ripe, is very
sweet, and pleasing to some palates.

30. The St. Peter's Grafie. This has a pretty large berry, inclin-
ing to an oval form, and of a deep black colour when ripe; the skin
is thin, and the flesh very delicate and juicy. This Vine produces
large shouldered bunches, and the leaves are much more divided
than those of most other sorts.

31. The Black Grafie from Palestine. This appears nearly simi-
lar to the preceding, but may probably be a distinct variety.

32. The White parsley leaved Grafie, or Ciotat. This is a variety
of the parsley leaved grape. The berries are round, white, of a
moderate size, with thin skins and delicate juicy flesh, which is very
sweet but not of a vinous flavour. The branches are of a pretty good
size, almost similar to the white Muscadine. The leaves are finely
divided, differing from any other sort. — There is a variety of the
parsley-leaved grape which produces red berries.

33. The Black Lisbon Grafie. This has a large globular berry,
black, thin skinned and juicy. It has also large shouldered bunches,
which not a little resembles the Black Hamburgh. This is a good
grape.

34. The Greek Grafie. The berries of this variety are of a mo-
derate size, rather inclining to an oval figure, of a bluish white co-
lour, and grow close, forming moderate-sized handsome bunches.
The leaves grow on very short foot stalks, and bear a resemblance
to those of the Sweet- Water. It is a delicate and justly esteemed
fruit.

35. The White Corinth Grafie. This has a white, round berry,
rather small, with a thin skin, and very delicate juicy flesh, of an
agreeable flavour. The bunches too are rather small. The berries,
when perfectly ripe, are transparent, so that the seeds appear very
distinctly.

36. The White Muscat of Lunel. The berries of this, are
large and oval, and, when perfectly ripe, are of a fine amber colour,
somewhat clouded with brown or russet, especially on the side next
the sun. The skin is thin, and the flesh delicate, replete with a
vinous juice. As this grape is a very plenliful bearer, and forms
pretty large bunches, it may justly be deemed a valuable sort.

37. The Red Chasselaa or Chasselas Rouge, is very like the
Chasselas Blanc, No. 6, in size and shape, but is of a dark red co-
lour. It is a very good grape, but ripens la,ter than the white.

March.] THE VINEYARD, 241

Third Class.

38. The Wfiite Muscat of Alexandriai, or Alexmidrian Frondnac
The berries of this are large and oval, the bunches long, and, when
perfectly ripe, are of a fine amber colour; the skin thick, pulp firm,
the juice rich and vinous, and of a high musky flavour; the berrits
hang loosely, ripen well, and are in great estimation.

39. The Bed Muscat of Alexandria. This resembles the former,
only the berries are red; it is a most excellent grape, and highly
worthy of cultivation.

40. The Black Damascus. The berries of this are large, round,
and of a fine black colour; the skin thin, the flesh juicy, and of an
exquisite flavour. The same bunch commonly consists of different
sizes; the small berries are without siont-s. and the large ones con-
tain only one in each berry; this is an excellent sort.

41. The Black Trifioli Grape This grape seems nearly allied
to the Black Damascus, but the bunches are always composed of
large berries, of an equal size, and with one stone in each. This
circumstance of the berries being equal in size, renders the bunches
of a more agreeable appearance; the foliage in both are exceedingly
beautiful in the fall, assuming a reddish hue, and very similar: this
is a very good grape.

42. The Red Grape from Syracuse. This is a very large grape,
of a red colour and oval figure, somewhat irregularly formed; the
berries hang together loosely on the bunches, which are pretty large:
this is a most excellent grape.

43. Le Cceur Grape, or Morocco Grape. This produces large
berries, in figure somewhat heart shaped, and of a tawny grizzly
colour. The bunches are often composed of unequally-sized ber-
ries, some of them exceedingly large; these never contain more
than one stone each, and the lesser-sized berries are always without
stones. The foot-stalks of tiie berries are short, and singularly
large, differing from most other sorts. This is a much esteemed
grape.

44. The Golden Galician. The berries of this variety are large,
and of an oval figure; the flesh hard, but of a tolerable flavour:
these, together with the foot-stalks, are of a light yellow colour.

45. The Black Muscadel. The berries of this, are large, oval, and
of a black colour; the skin thin, with a delicate juicy flesh. The
same bunch contains berries of different sizes, some of them very
large and long, but somewhat compressed at the ends: the leaves
change in autumn to a beautiful scarlet.

46. The Red Muscadel. The berries of this sort are large, oval,
and of a beautiful red colour; the skin thick, and the flesh bard,
something like the raisin grape. The bunches frequently arrive to
five or six pounds, and are most elegantly formed of berries of an
equal size. This is one of the largest grapes. The leaves change
in autumn to a beautiful red and green.

47. The White Grape from Alcobaca. This has a large oval white

2H

242 THE VINEYARD. [March.

berry with a thin skin and juicy flesh; the bunches are large and
long, without shoulders.

48. The W/iite Hamburg, This has an oval berry, with a thick
skin and hard flesh. As this variety is a plentiful bearer, and forms
large bunches, it is much admired by some, but is not so valuable
as either of the two preceding kinds. It is sometimes called the
Portugal Gra/ie.

49. The Syrian Grafie. The berries are white, large, and of an
oval figure; the skin thick, and the flesh firm and hard; the bunches
well formed, and enormously large. Though this is generally con-
sidered as a coarse fruit, it has properties that ought to introduce it
into every large collection. It is very prolific, and the bunches com-
monly grow very large, sometimes to upwards of twelve pounds,
making a most beautiful appearance, and, when well perfected, may
be called a very eatable fruit; they may without difficulty, be kept
many weeks longer than any other kind. This grape requires a very
warm exposure.

50. The Black Raisin Grafie. The berries of this variety are
oval, and black, with a thick skin and a hard firm flesh. It forms
long handsome bunches.

51. The White Raisin Grape. The properties of this grape are
nearly similar to the preceding, but the berries are white.

52. The Damsom Grafie. The berries of this variety are very
large, oval, and of a beautiful purple colour. They grow loose on
the bunch, which is large. The leaves of this grape are large, and
more thick and succulent than those of any other sort, and have
something of the appearance of green leather.

53. The Cornichon Grafie. Has berries of a remarkable shape;
they are about an inch and a half long, their breadth not half an inch.
They taper from the stalk, but not in a regular manner, and end in a
blunt point, according to the French something like a horn; but its
figure is more like the long end of a small fish's bladder. The
berries are white, with a thick skin and a firm sweet flesh.

54. The J\''e'u} Muscat of Jerusalem. This variety has large
round berries of a red colour, nearly as large as middle sized goose-
berries,

55. The Black Prince. This has fine large black berries, and
the bunches grow to a large size, frequently to a pound and a half.

American Species of Vine.

The following species of the Vine are indigenous in America.

1st. The Vitis sylvestrisy or common bunch grape.

2d. The Vitis vulfiina, of Bartram; V. Labrusca, of Lin. or Fox-
grape.

3d. The Vitis taurina, of Bartram, or Vitis Vulfiina of Lin. com-
monly called the Bull or Bullet-grape.

4th. The Vitis serotina, or winter-grape, by some called the Ber-
mudian-grape.

There are several varieties produced by the intermixtures of the
above, with one another, or with the varieties of the Vitis vinifera.

March.] THE VINEYARD. 248

which are called hybrids or mules; the most noted are, 1. Alex-
ander's or Tasker's grape; 2, Bland's grape; 3. That called the
Racoon-grape. From either of these hybrids, it is probable that
good wine may be produced; but I shall leave that to the experi-
ence of those who have made, or wish to make the experiment. At
the same time, I would suggest the idea of grafting some of the
best European kinds, on our most vigorous native vines, which no
doubt, would answer a very good purpose.

Soil and Situation.

The first and most important thing, to be considered in plant-
ing a Vineyard, is the choice of soil and situation; for on these, de-
pend much of the ultimate success. That, best adapted for a
Vineyard, is a light, rich, deep loam; on a chalky, limestone, flinty,
or gravelly bottom; it should be naturally, from one to two feel deep,
of good mellow earth, or made so by art: a deeper soil is unnecessary
for any tree or shrub whatever, that is not cultivated on account of its
roots; and although Vines may shoot more vigorously in such,
and produce a greater quantity of fruit, which, by the bye, is very
questionable, yet they ripen later, and their juice is more crude,
than that of those which draw their nourishment, from earth within
the influence of the sun, air, rains, dews, &c.

The situation should be on an elevation, inclining to the south,
south-east, or south-west; and if having all these exposures, the
better, as the various kinds could have different situations according
to their natures, and necessities. The ground should have a gra-
dual descent, that the moisture may be drained off"; but if too rapid,
it will be more difficult to labour, as the plough cannot then be used;
and besides, it will be less retentive of manure, and consequently
will require a greater quantity, and more frequently administered.
If at a distance, there are large hills, or elevated woods, to defend it
from the north and north-westerly winds, the better.

The immediate neighbourhood should be open; and, if hilly,
towards the north and north-west, the better: it should be free
from swamps, or widely extended woods; for, under such circum-
stances, the air would frequently be replete with too great a quan-
tity of moisture, occasioned by the perspiration of the trees, and
the exhalations from the adjoining swamps, whereby both vines and
fruit would be greatly subjected to what is called the mildew. It
has been observed, in the middle states, particularly by Mr. Peter
Legaux, of Spring-Mill, near Philadelphia, that the more easterly
the exposure, the more are the vines and fruit liable to become
mildewed; and that, in a south-west exposure, they are less sub-
ject to it than in any other.

Those wbo wish to cultivate grapes for the table only, and that
have not the advantage of the kind of soil above described, need not
despair of having good fruit for that purpose, as vines will grow
and bear well in any dry and tolerably rich ground; that is, neither
sandy nor light to excess, nor too clayey or binding; for a tolerable
stiff loam will do well enough, with the assistance of good cul-
ture.

244 '1'^^ VINEYARD. jTVlAncn.

Freparation of the i^oil.

Having made choice of soil and situation, the next thing to be
done, is to prepare ii for planting; in doing of which, the lollow-
ing method is to be obsei ved. in the S/iring, if the soil is not
naiuruily rich, give it a good coat of well rotted manure, or com-
post; and immediately plough it in as deep as can be done, with
jfour or six stout horses, or oxen, and a strong plough; after it has lain
a month, cross harrow it, and cleanse it fr^m stones and the roots
of noxious weeds. About the middle of June, cross plough it
aguin as deep as po-.bible; in three weeks after, harrow it, and
clear off all the roots of weeds and large stones. Towards the
latter end of August, plough it again, and harrow as before. In
November, give it another very deep ploughing, and let it lay so
all winter, without harrowing. As early in the month of March
following, as you find it suiHf ienily dry, and in good state for til-
lage, but not before, plough it across the hill, and as deep as you
can. running the plough twice in each score; then harrow it well,
and you have it in a fine state for planting.

In some ground, and very frequently in that extremely well
adapted to the culture of the vine, the declivity is too great to cul-
tivate it with the plough; in wh.ch case, it must be done with the
spade, and other manual implements; and it would be well, if
such land could be thrown, or banked up into terrasses, each capa-
ble of receiving one, two, or three rows of vines, the better to re-
tain the necessary manure and moisture.

Preparations for Planting S^'c.

Bf^ing provided with a number of four feet stakes, in proportion
to the quantity vou intend planting, and made as directed in Janu'
ary, page 48; niark out your ground, in rows ranging north and
south, as well as east and west, by placing those stakes at intervals
of six feet distance every way, so as it may be convenient to plough
and harrow between the rows in these directions. This is meant
for a south exjiusure; but in others, they are generally arranged
up and down hill, as well as across; though the former direction
may be given to the rows in any situation, and perhaps with more
advantage, as to ease of culture, and benefit of the sun.

Six feet plant from plant, every way will not be too great a dis-
tance, however it may appear at first view; especially in a country,
where Providence has been very bountiful, in blessing its inhabitants
with abundance of ground, as well as with every thing else, that tends
to make an industrious man happy; for, if planted too close, there
will not be room for the sun and air to i)ass freely between the rows,
to ripen the fruit and dry u\) the moisture and autumnal damps,
which would otheiwise be imbided by the fruit, and render it crude
ano insipid; and more particularly so, when tlieir stocks grow large,
and their branches proportionably extend themselves on each side.

March.] THE VINEYARD. 245

Tlie next thing to be considered, is the choice of proper sorts.
It is worthy of particular notice, that the best grapes for eating, are
for the most part, the worst for making wine. This is agreeable to
the practice of cider makers, who always prefer the rough, juicy,
and austere kinds of apples, to those that are considered best for the
table, and also lo that of the most skilful Vignn-ons of Europe, who
are very particular in selecting such kinds of grapes, whose juice
after being pressed and properly fermented, aflords a vinous rich
liquor.

The ^uvernat JVoir, or true Burgundy grape, is the kind most
preferred, and m the greatest repute in Burgundtj, C/iam/iagne., Or-
lean.i, and most of the wine countries in France. The 3^/wiier, is also
in great repute; but as far as I have yet observed, I have seen no
kind more likely to answer lor making good wine in America, than
the Consiantia, or Cape of (iood Hope grape,* and with either of
these, the Claret Grape, to heighten and enliven the colour, when
red wine is intended to be made.

But as this business is yet in its infancy here, and as the differ-
ence of soil and climate, is well known to make a material change
in the produce of the same kind of grape, experiments must be
made on the various sorts, in order to ascertain, which may best an-
swer the purpose.

I shall now proceed to the different methods of propagating the
Vine, and then to its planting.

Propagation in general.

The Vine admits of being propagated various ways: first, by seeds;
secondly, by layers; and thirdly, by cuttings. This tree can also be
propagated by grafting, inoculation, and inarching.

Propagation by seed, is undoubtedly the way to raise new kinds,
but is seldom practised, on account of the length of time, and hazard
of obtaining better, or even so good kinds, as the original grapes
from whence tiie seeds were taken; but this should never deter,
for superior kinds may be obtained, and a seedling Vine, Judiciously
managed, will produce fruit in about seven years, or perhaps

Propagation by Seed.

When you raiae Vines from seed, always be sure to do it from
the very best kinds. The grapes for seed should be permitted to
remain on the plant, until they are pei fectly ripe. As soon lis the
seed is taken from the pulp, it should be laid in some airy, but
shady place, to dry, and then carefully preserved in sand till spring.
If, however, the seeds were immediately sown in pots, and preserv-

* This Grape, w^ts imported from the Cape of Good Hope, some ye;rs
ago, by Mr. Legavx of Spring- Mill, before mentioned, who for several )crs
past, h:.', made wine from it, of a most excellent quality, and also from the
Mttnier.

246 THE VINEYARD. [March-

ed in a hot-house, green-house, or under the protection of glasses,
till spring, they would then more freely vegetate. Or, sow the
seed in February or March, and plunge the pots into a temperate
hot-bed; when the plants appear, they will require, from lime to
time, gentle sprinklings of water, and protection from frost and
eold. When so far advanced, as to have three or four joints each,
they must be carefully shaked out, and planted each in a separate
pot.

The greatest care will be required in the performance of the above
operation, as it will be beneficial to preserve as much of the earth to
the roots as possible: then plunge the pots into a gentle hot-bed;
give the plants a little water, and occasional shade from a strong sun,
till they have taken root; after whicli, give them plenty of air occa-
sionally, so as to inure them to the open weather, and have them fit
to turn out of the pots in July, with the balls of earth, wherever they
are intended to remain; and, from thence forward, they may be treat-
ed exactly in the same manner as recommended hereafter, for plants
raised from cuttings, only that they will require some slight protec-
tion from the frosts of the ensuing winter.

Propagation by Layers.

When the Vine is intended to be propagated by layers, the best
shoots of the preceding season that can be most conveniently brought
to the earth, are to be chosen for that purpose. After making the
ground light and fine with the spade, each shoot must be fastened
with a hooked stick, about five or six inches below the surface, with
the tops somewhat erect, and cut so as to leave but two buds above
ground: this work may be done, at any time when the weather per-
mits, from the middle or beginning of October, till the end of March,
or rather until, and at the time of spring pruning; for, if done much
later, the top of the layer where cut, and even the parts bent in the
operation, would bleed, which would injure it considerably. Some
give them a slit, where inserted into the earth, but they will root
freely with or without such.

During summer, if the weather proves dry, a little water occasion-
ally would be of use to them; just so much as will keep the ground
in a moist state. The autumn, or spring following, the layers may
be taken off from the mother plants, their tops pruned, the extreme
ends of the stems beyond the young roots cut off close to them, and
so planted where they are to remain; but I would prefer doing this
early in March.

This is a very useful and necessary operation, when any of your
plants in the Vineyard are bad kinds, or in an indifferent state of
health; for you can extend the end of a long shoot from a neigh-
bouring plant, to where the bad plant was, or stands, entering it into
the earth as before, where you wish it to grow, and the next season
you will have a fine vigorous plant; observing, then, to detach it
from the mother vine, by cutting off the connection close to its new
established roots; or, you may lay it all the way in the earth from
the mother plant, to where you desire its top to grow, and in a year

March.] THE VINEYARD. 247

disconnect them, near to the old plant; this will be the better way,
provided you lay it in deeper than the ordinary culture, to secure
it from being disturbed thereby. This the French call Provigner la
■vigne.

Propagation by Cuttings.

The method of propagating the Vine by cuttings, is in more gen-
eral practice, than by that of layers, and very justly; for plants raised
in the latter way, are found to be much inferior to those raised by
cuttings, both in point of vigour and durability.

The particulars necessary to form a good cutting, are principally
these: 1st. The eye, or bud, should be large and prominent. 2d. The
shoots, moderately strong, round and short jointed. 3d. The texture
of the wood should be close, solid, and compact; but the best crite-
rion of its maturity, is its solidity, and having very little pith: it is
absurd to expect good success, or prosperous plants, from wood im-
perfectly ripened.

Unskilful persons frequently choose remarkably strong shoots for
cuttings: the extraordinary size is one of the least necessary requi-
sites; indeed, exceeding strong shoots generally abound too much
with pith, and are too long jointed to claim a preference.

In the proper pruning season, which in the middle states I con-
ceive to be the latter end of February, or first week in March,
much earlier in the southern states, and very little later in the east-
ern; take your cuttings from the old vines, near to where they were
produced; cut off the lower end of each in a sloping manner, half an
inch below a bud, and the upper end in like manner, an inch above
one, having the slope on the opposite side of the bud, and leaving
the cutting from twelve to sixteen inches long; but twelve is suffi-
cient, if short-jointed, and furnished with at least four or five good
buds.

There can be but one firime cutting obtained from each shoot,
though many persons cut these into several lengths, and plant them
all, which should not be done, except in cases of necessity; for, the
upper parts are never so well ripened as the lower, on account of
these being produced at an earlier period, and having the advantage
of the whole season to perfect their maturity. The upper parts be-
ing soft and spongy, admits the moisture too freely, which often pre-
vents their growth, and even should they succeed, they will not pro-
duce fruit so soon, nor will they bear so abundantly for many years,
as those whose wood is close, compact, and already organized for
fructification.

Some people recommend taking off the cuttings, with an inch or
two of the two years old wood annexed; but this is unnecessary, and
even injurious, unless the species of plant whida you are propagat-
ing, is extremely pithy and spongy, like the fig; for, the nearer we
appproach to nature's method, by having as little old wood as possi-
ble about the root of a young plant, the better.

When the cuttings are thus prepared, they should be laid in
trenches, close to each other; in some dry part of the Vineyard,

248 THE VINEYARD. [March.

and covered with earth to within two inches of their tops, where
they are to remain till you are ready to plant them; coverint; them
in frosty or parching weather, with some loose, dry litter, which is to
be taken oft' every mild day, that they may the more effectually be in-
ured to the open air. This is the best method of preservini^ them,
even during the entire winter. I do not approve of keeping cut-
tings, for any length of time, in close, dark, un ventilated cellars; for
m such places they become weak, blanched, tender and sickly, and
seldom succeed well wiien planted out; besides, they have nothing to
imbibe, whilst there, but foul air, which vitiates their juices, and
brings on diseases and bad health.

Method of Planting.

Having your ground prepared, and marked out with stakes as
before directed, and your cuttings in readiness; so soon after the
middle of this month, as you find the soil dry and in good order,
proceed to planting in the following manner: — Take up a number
of your cuttings carefully, without injuring the buds, and pluce
them in a bucket of dung v/ater, about six inches deep, the bucket
having a handle for the convenience of carrying it from place to
place: then, at each stake, make a hole with a spade, about a foot
deep, and as wide as you please, but it will be better to have all
these holes made the day before you cotnmence planting; into each
put one strong cutting, placing it a little sloping, and so deep, that
the second bud from the top, may be just on a level with the gene-
ral surface; immediately fill the hole with earth, pressing it gently
with your feet to the cutting, and drawing the loose earth round, so
as to cover the second bud, before noticed, half an inch deep; which
bud so protected, will frequently make the most vigorous shoot, and
often succeed, when the top bud, exposed to the weather will not;
then drive down the stake, so as to make it firm, within three inches
of the plant.

If your cuttings are not extremely good and fresh, and such as
may be depended on, it will be the more certain way to plant two in
each hole, the tops within a few inches of each other, and the lower
ends sloping in opposite directions, for the greater convenience, if
both should succeed, of removing one, without dislurbin*^ the other;
these extra plants may be made use of next season, to fill up vacan-
cies, or to form a new plantation.

Cuttings are generally preferred for this purpose to rooted plants,
as they are thought to establish themselves more eff'ectually when
not removed; however, when such are to be planted, keep their
roots out of ground but as short a time as possible; and if immersed
when taken up, in a pap of earth and water, or dung and water, the
better: plant them in the same manner as directed for the cuttings,
pruning their heads, and observing to place their roots, after first
shortening any long stragglers, in a spreading manner in the earth,
and then cover them up as before.

It is necessary that each particular kind of grape should be
planted in separate quarters, that they may all be gathered, when

March.] THE NURSERY. 249

ripe, without injuring others; for when planted in a mixed confus-
ed way, the going through the different quarters to pull the fruit of
a vine, here and there, is very incunvenient, and often the later
ripening intervening kinds are injured thereby.

If your ground is intended to be cultivated, after planting, with
the plough, you must leave sufficient head lands for the horses to
turn on.

In the course of this month, as soon after pruning as the ground
is dry and in good condition for tillage, plough and harrow be-
tween the rows of your former plantations of vines, previously giv-»
iug such quarters, as need it, a dressing of well rotted manure;
and dig, or give a deep hoeing, to such places as cannot be come at
%vith the plough.

THE NURSERY.

Grafting.

It is too difficult a task to state the precise time of grafting
the various kinds of fruit and other trees, in the different climates
and states of the Union; but, as I cannot do this with preci-
sion, and must confine myself, in this article, to the periods most
suitable for performing that operations in the middle states, where I
am best acquainted with the seasons. 1 will give such hints as will
lead to a perfect knowledge of iUe true periods for grafting, in every
country, and every place.

The best time for grafting, in the middle states, is generally
from the twentieth of i>larch to the tenth of April, a few days ear-
lier or later, as vegetation may happen to be in an advanced or re-
tarded state, which sometimes makes a difference of ten or tv/elve
days.

Grafting is always most successful, when done at the period that
the buds of your stocks are swelled, so as to be nearly ready to
burst into leaf: this is the time in which the greatest success nray
be expected, and should be very particularly attended to; however,
if done a few days before, or even when the stocks display several
expanded leaves, there may be a tolerably good hit, provided the
operation is judiciously performed.

Your cions or grafts must be taken off, about a month or three
weeks before this crisis, or so soon as you are able to perceive the
least disposition in their Inids to swell: for, if not cut off in proper
time, the grafts will not take kindly, nor will they shoot so vigo-
rously,

2 T

250 THE NURSERY. [March-

The proper sorts to begin with, in respect to fruit-trees, are
cherries and plums, and, if you please, peaches, nectarines and
apricots; but the latter kinds are generally propagated by budding
or inoculation. Pears, filberts and apples, may be grafted at the
same time; but the latter may be deferred for ten days longer than
either of the former, provided the cions were taken ofi" in due time;
pears will also agree with tolerable late grafting.

Before I proceed to the methods of grafting, it will first be ne-
cessary to mention, what stocks are proper to graft the difi'erent kinds
of fruit upon; for instance, apples should be grafted upon stocks
raised from the kernels of the same kind of fruit; that is, any kind
of apples; for the grafts or buds of these trees will not take well,
upon any other stocks.

It should be observed, that for dwarf apple-trees for walls or es-
paliers, or for small standards, they should generally be grafted
upon codlin apple stocks, raised either from suckers from tlie root,
or by cuttings or layers: for the stocks raised from these are never
so luxui'iant in growth, as those of the larger growing apple-irees;
and, consequently, trees grafted upon such stocks will be slower
in growth, and can more easily be kept within due compass, so
will answer the purpose for dwarfs or espaliers, &,c. much better
than those grafted on larger-growing kinds. Or, if required to
have them of still more dwarfish growth for small gardens, you
may use stocks of the Dutch paradise apple, and Siberian crab, &c.

But, for the general supply of apple-stocks foi common stand-
ards, and large espaliers trees, they are raised principally from the
seed of any sort of apples or wild crabs.

Pears are generally grafted or budded upon stocks raised also
from kernels of any of their own kinds of fruits, or occasionally
upon stocks raised from suckers; they likewise are very commonly
grafted upon quince stocks, whereby to have trees of more mode-
rate growth, to form dwarfs; and which are generally raised by
seed, cuttings, layers, or suckers; and the pears grafted or budded
upon these stocks, are very proper for walls or espaliers, and occa-
sionally for small standards. Sometimes also, pears are grafted upon
white-thorn stocks; but this is improper for any general practice,
not being so successful, and never producing so good fruit, as if
grafted on slocks of their own family.

Cherries are propagated by grafting or budding them, upon stocks
raised from the stones of the common black or red cherry, or upon
stocks raised from the stones of any other kind of the same fruit; but
the two first are most esteemed for that purpose because they ge-
nerally shoot much freer than any other.

Plums are grafted or budded on stocks, raised by sowing the
seeds of any or either of the plum kinds; but those raised from the
vigorous growing sorts are most preferable: they are also grafted
on stocks raised from suckers, but such should not be used, unless
when seedling stocks cannot be had. Plums will likewise take on
the apricot, but then the trees are not permanent.

The apricot proves the most durable on stocks of the plum kind.
It will aho grow on its own, and on peach and almond stocks; but
on either of the two last, it will not be durable.

March.] THE NURSERY. 251

For peaches and nectarines, several sorts of stocks are occasion-
ally used; such as plum, peach, almond, and apricot stocks, all rais-
ed from the stones of the fruit, and the first kind from layers and
suckers also. If a plum could be procured of such vigorous
growth, as to keep pace with the peach, it would be an acquisition
of infinite importance; for on such, the peach would be as perma-
nent as the plum itself. In Europe, all their peach-trees are worked
on the plum; but with us, the growth of the peach is so rapid, as
in a few years to overgrow the stock, when wrought on any of the
kinds of plum which we have yet procured. The kind particularly
selected for this purpose in Europe, is the muscle-plum.

Almonds will take, and grow on any stock which answers for the
peach.

Medlars will grow on either medlar, white-thorn, pear, or quince
stocks; but those of its own genera are preferable.

Filberts will succeed by budding or grafting on the common
hazel-nut tree, raised either from the nuts, or by suckers from the
roots.

The first thing to be done towards this work, is to select the
grafts, in the choice of which, the following directions should be
observed. 1st. That they are shoots of the former year; for,
when they are older, they never succeed well. 2dly. Always
to take them from healthy fruitful trees; for, if the trees from
which they are taken be sickly, the grafts very often partake so
much of the distemper, as rarely to get the better of it, at least for
some years; and when they are taken from young luxuriant trees,
whose vessels are generally large, they will continue to produce
strong shoots, but will be a long time coming into bearing, and
are seldom so productive, as those which are taken from fruitful
trees, whose shoots are more compact, joints closer together, and
whose system is already organized for bearing. 3dly. You should
prefer those grafts which are taken from the lateral or horizontal
branches, to those from the strong perpendicular shoots, for the
reasons before given.

When your grafts are cut off", open shallow trenches in a dry
sheltered situation, and place them thinly therein, with their cut
ends down, drawing up the earth so as that they may be covered
two-thirds of their length; then lay some light litter thinly over
their tops, to prevent their drying. If a small joint of the last
year's wood be taken off with the cion, it will preserve it the better;
for the old wood being more compact than the new, will prevent its
imbibing too much moisture from the earth, whilst kept there, and
that can be cut away, when you take them up for grafting. If grafts
are io be carried to any considerable distance, it will be proper to
pack them up in earth, and surround them with damp moss, if but
9 small quantity, to prevent its drying too soon.

Always prefer stocks, which were raised in the Nursery from
seed; next to these, those raised from layers and cuttings; and,
last of all, such as were produced from suckers; for the last will
continue to throw up suckers from their roots, much more abund-
antly than any of the former, to the great annoyance of the borders,

252 THE NURSERY. [Mahcs.

garden, or orchard; which are not only unsightly, but they also
take off a great part of the nourishment from the trees.

When you intend to change the fruit of an old espalier, or wall-
tree, always graft on fresh healthy branches, and as near the trunk
as such are to be found; ten or a dozen grafts may be necessary to
furnish the tree, the more immediately, with the kind or kinds de-
sired. For a standard, six or eight cions, will be sufficient to answer
a similar purpose, always observing to cut out the tar greater part,
if not the whole, of the old branches, previous to grafting, and the
remainder, as the young grafts advance in growth.

For this purpose, you must be provided, I. With a strong knife,
to cut off the heads of the slocks previous to the insertioii of the
grafts. 2. With a neat small hand-saw, for occasional use, in cut-
ting off the heads of some large stocks, for crown-grafting. 3.
With a grafting-chissel and small mallet, for clefting large stocksi
for the reception of the cions in cleft-grafting. 4. With a neat and
very sharp pruning-knife, for cutting and shaping the grafts, and
for sloping and forming the stocks for their reception; and 5. With
a quantity of new bass strings; or, if bass cannot be had, with soft
woollen yarn, to tie the parts close, secure the grafts, and thereby
to promote their speedy union with the stocks.

The next thing to be provided, is a quantity of grafting clay, which
should be prepared, at least ten days, previous to its being wanted
for use; to be applied closely round the grafts- at the places of in-
sertion into the stocks, and a little aboTe, in order to prevent the
air from exhausting the sap of the cions, before they could be sup-
plied with a sufficiency from the stocks; and also to keep out wet,
which would greatly obstruct the uniting of the parts: it is to be
made in the following manner.

Get a quantity of strong fat loam, in proportion to the number of
trees to be grafted; then take about a fourth part of fresh horse-
dung, free from litter, or a third part of cowdung, it matters not
v/hich you make use of; or, if you please, you may use a propor-
tionaie quantity of each, mixing them, or either of them, well with
the loam; add to it a small quantity of hay, cut very fine, and also
some salt, which will prevent it from cracking or drying too fast in
hot or parching weather; work the whole well together, and add
as much water as necessary; after which, beat and incorporate the
mass effectually, after the manner of mortar, and continue so to
work it eveiy other day, adding a little water as it becotnes dry, till
the time you want it for use. Be vtry particular, during this pe-
riod, not to expose it to frost, or drying winds; and the more ef-
fectually you incorporate it, the belter will it answer your purpose.
Some people use a composition of bees-ivax, rosin and turpentine,
melted together, to put round the grafts in the manner of clay, but
laid on warm and much thinner. This I conceive to be too ex*
pensive, and am certain, from experience, that it does not answer
the end a whit better, nor even so well, as the former, if properly
made.

Observe, that the stocks to be grafted, if intended for dwarf-
tfees, for espaliers or walls, must be headed down to within five or

March.] THE NURSERY 253

six inches of the ground; but if for full standards, they may be
headed and grafted at five or six feet high, or in fact, at any height
you please, even at the surface of the ground, but more particularly
apples and pears; for you can afterwards train the graft on a single
clean stem, as high as you like, and then top it, to cause it to
throw out side branches for fot ming a head: this is the best method
to treat stunted or ill formed stocks, but is not necessary for those
that are well thriven and straight; for by it you would lose a year
of their growth, as you can immediately form the head from the
graft when inserted at a proper height; for dwarf and half standards,
you may head and graft, at the height of two, three, or four
feet.

There are various methods of grafting in practice; such as whip-
grafiitisi,, cleft-grafting, crown-grafting, side-grafting, root-grafting
and grafimg by approach or inarching; but the two former are in
more general use among experienced gardeners, particularly the
first, as being every way preferable to any other, when the stocks
are under an inch in diameter.

First, by TVliip-grafting.

This kind of grafting is that most commonly practised in nur-
series, as being both the most expeditious and successful, and may
be performed upon smaller stocks, than any other; for it is eflect-
ed with the greatest success upon such as are, from about half an
inch or less, to near an inch in diameter: the method of perform-
ing the work is this.

Having the cions or grafts, knife, bandages, and clay ready;
then begin the work by cutting off" the head of the stock, at some
clear smooth part thereof; generally performing this, by one clean
slanting cut upwards, so as to form a slope on one side about an
inch and a half, or two inches in length, and make a notch or small
slit, from near the upper part downwards, a little better than half an
inch long, to receive the tongue of the cion; then prepare the cion,
by cutting it to five or six inches in length, preferring the lower
or thick part, and cutting the bottom end on one side also, in a slop-
ing manner, the length of, and to fit the slope of the stock, as if
cut from the same place, that tlie rinds of both may join as nearly
as possible in every part, as if you were splicing a fishing-rod; but
when the stock is much larger than the cion, this cannot be done so
exactly, unless you insert it on the opposite side of the stock to the
slope, h wever, that will not be necessary, provided you join the
rinds or bark of both, so as to fit neatly on either edge or side of the
slope; then make a slit upwards in the slope of the cion, so as to
form a sort of tongue to fit that made in the slope of the stock,
which insert therein, so that the rinds of both may join together
exactly, at least at one side, and innmediately tie the parts together
with a ligature of bass, &c. bringing it in a neat manner several
times round the stock and graft, moderately tight, and fastened ac-
cordingly.

254 THE NURSERY. [March.

This done, clay the whole over near an inch thick on every side,
from an inch below the bottom of the graft, to the same above the
top of the stock, finishing the coat of clay in a longish oval form,
closing it effectually in every part, and tapering it up to the cion to
prevent the wind, sun, or rain reaching the grafted parts, till the
union is effected; observing to examine it now and then; and if any
part falls off, or cracks appear, such must be immediately repaired
with fresh clay.

Expert Nursery-Gardeners, generally perform whip-grafting
with four cuts; two in heading and slitting the stock, and the same
in sloping and tonguing the graft, inserting it immediately, being
followed by one or two persons to tie and clay them.

This sort of grafting may also be performed, if necessary, upon
strong young shoots of any bearing tree, if intended to alter the
kind of fruit, or have more than one sort on the same tree.

By the middle or latter end of May, the grafts will be well united
with the stocks, as will be evident by their shooting; the clay may
then be taken off, but suffer the bandages to remain on, till the
united parts seem to swell, and be loo much confined thereby.

Second, by Cleft- Grafting.

This is called Cleft-grafting, because the stock being too large
for whip-grafting, is cleft or slit down the middle for the reception
of the cion, and is performed upon stocks from about one to two
inches diameter, and may be practised with success where the rind
of the stock is not too thick, whereby the inner bark of the cion
will be prevented from closely joining that of the stock, which
junction is absolutely necessary to form a complete union of the
parts.

First, with a strong knife, cut off the head of the stock; or, if
the stock is very large, it may be headed with a small saw.

This done, fix upon a smooth part, just below where headed, and
on the opposite side to that, cut away part of the stock, about an
inch and a half, in a sloping manner upwards, so as the crown of the
stock may nbt be more than about half an inch broad, which slope
and crown are to be cut smooth and neat. Then prepare your grafts
or cions in the following manner: observe to cut them into proper
lengths of about six inches, with several eyes or buds to each;
then take your sharpest knife, and pare away the bark and some
of the wood at the lower end of the graft in a sloping manner,
about an inch and a half or near two inches in length on oppo-
site sides, making it to have a wegde-like shape; but let that edge,
which is to be placed outwards in the stock, be left thicker than the
othtr, and with the rind continued thereon. The graft being pre-
pared, take your strong knife or chissel, and place it on the middle
of the siock, not across, but contrary ways, to the sloped part, and
with a small mallet, strike the knife or chissel into the stock,
observing to cleave it no farther than what is necessary to admit the
graft readily; then place the knife, or some small instrument, a
little way into the cleft, at the sloped part of the stock, to keep it

March.] THE NURSERY. 255

open for the reception of the graft, which directly introduce into
the cleft on the top of the stock, at the back of the slope; inserting
it with great exactness, as far as it is cut, with the thickest edge
outwards, and so that the rind may meet exactly every way with
that of the stock. The graft being placed, then remove the knife
or wedge, taking care not to displace the cion; this done, let it be
tied and well clayed in the manner directed above, in the work of
whip or tongue-grafting.

Or, if you choose to put in two grafts, it may be performed on
large stocks, which must be twice cleft, parallel to each other, and
so fix the cions as above, in opposite sides.

This method of grafting may be performed occasionally, on the
upright branches of bearing trees, when intended either to renew
the wood, or change the sort of fruit.

Wlien the grafts have shot five or six inches, take off the clay
and bandages, and cover the wounded parts of the stocks with fresh
grafting-ciay, which will protect them from the influence of the
weather, and accelerate the growth of the bark over the wounds;
let this claying remain on till it falls off of itself: this second clay-
ing is more necessary to large, than to small stocks, but will be very
useful to either.

Third, by Crown-grafting.

The third kind of grafting is known by the name of crown-graft-
ing, as sometimes three, four, or more grafts are inserted round the
crown of the stock, in a circular order, introduced betwixt the bark
and the wood.

This way of grafting is commonly practised upon such stocks
as are too large and stubborn to cleave, and is often performed upon
the branches of apple and pear-trees, &c. that already bear fruit,
when it is intended to change the sorts, or to renew the tree with
fresh bearing wood.

The manner of doing it, is as follows:

First, to cut off the head of the tree or stock level, or of any
particular branch of a tree which you intend to graft, and pare the
top perfectly smooth; then prepare your cions, which is done by
cutting one side flat and sloping, about two inches in length, making
a kind of shoulder at the top of the cut, to rest on the head of the
stock; and pare off a little of the bark towards each edge of the
graft; then prepare to insert it, which, in this order of grafting,
must be effected by introducing the sloped part down betwixt the
bark and wood of the stock; first slitting the bark or rind from the
top downwards, clean through to the firm wood, two inches or two
and a half in length; and having a small thin wedge of iron or
wood, open therewith the rind of the stock a little at the top of the
slit, by introducing it gently down betwixt the wood and rind, far
enough to make way for admitting the graft; then drawing it out
insert the cion, with the cut sloped side towards, and close to the
wood of the stock, slipping it neatly down the length of its cut part,
resting the shoulder thereof, prepared as above, upon the top of the

256 THE NURSERY. [March.

stocky and in this manner you may put four, five, or more grafts^
as may seem convenient, into each stock, and bind them round with
strong bass.

When the grafts are all thus fixed you must immediately apply
a good quantity of well-wrought clay, bringing it close about the
stock and grafts, observing to raise it at least an inch above the top
of the slock, in a rounding manner, so as to throw the wet quickly
off, and prevent its lodging or getting into the work, which would
ruin all.

This method of grafting, is sometimes called shoulder-grafting,
and grafting in the rind, and was much more in practice formerly,
than at present; for although the grafts take freely, they are liable
to be blown out by strong winds, afier they have made large shoots,
which has frequently happened after three or four years growth, so
that when this method is practised, the evil must be remedied by
tying some firm slicks to the body of the stock or branch thai is
grafted, to which the young shoots must be tied, or they must be
made fast to some convenient support that will answer the same
end; or even tying them to one another, should ihe grafts take on
cfifionite sides of the stock, will answer a good purpose.

This kind of grafting may be performed a week, or ten days
later than the other methods; for it will prove most successful, if
done when the sap begins to be in active motion, as then the bark of
the stock will separate from the wood more freely, to admit the
graft.

When the cions are well taken, treat them as directed under the
head Cleft-grafting.

Fourth, by Side-grafting.

This is done by inserting grafts into the sides of the branches
without heading them down, and may be practised upon trees to fill
up any vacancy, or for variety, to have several sorts of fruit on the
same tree.

It is performed thus: fix upon such parts of the branches where
wood is wanting, to furnish the head, or any part of the tree; there
slope off the bark and a little of the wood, and cut the lower end of
the graft to fit the part as near as possible; then join it to the brant^h,
first tonguing both as in whip-grafting, tie them with bass, and clay
them over.

Fifth, by Root-grafting.

This is done by whip-grafting cions upon pieces of the root, turn-
ed up, about half an inch thick, either as the roots remain, or se-
parated, and immediately replanted.

Here it will be well to observe, that grafting is frequently done,
and very often with good success, without the assistance of graft-
ing-clay, or any other prepared composition. The method is this:
head down your stocks near the surface of the ground, and graft
them as low as you possibly can; bind them neatly, as in other
cases, and draw the earth over the crowns of the stocks, so as to let

March.] THE NURSERY. 257

one or two of the buds of each cion appear; look to them frequent-
ly, and if the earth sinks so as to expose the crowns of the stocks,
cover them up again.

When the cions are sufficiently taken, clear off the earth, un-
bind the bandages, and then replace it as before. Trees grafted in
this way, may afterwards be trained up, either for standards, half
standards, espaliers, or wall trees, at pleasure.

It sometimes happens that persons are under the necessity, in
spring, of removing some stocks, when in the way of other busi-
ness; in which case, they are frequently taken into the house, and
grafted in any method most convenient, then planted immediately:
this is called by gardeners fire-side grafting, and often proves tole-
rably successful; but I would not recommend it, except in cases of
necessity.

Grafting by Approach, or Inarching.

This method of grafting is performed only, when the stock, and
the tree from which you mean to propagate, either grow, or can
be placed so near each other, that the intended graft may be
brought to approach and join the stock; forming therewith, when
grafted, a kind of arch, and not to be separated from the mother
plant, till a perfect union is formed: hence its name.

When intended to progagate any tree or shrub, by this method;
if of a hardy nature, and growing in the open ground, the requi-
site quantity of young plants for stocks should be planted round it,
and when grown of a proper size or height, the work performed:
or, if the branches of the tree designed lo graft from, are too high
for the stocks, these must be planted in pots, (if a year previous
to the operation the better) and placed upon a temporary stage
erected round the tree, of sufficient height to answer the purpose.

In performing this work, make choice of a smooth part of the
stock, and with which the intended graft can be conveniently
brought to meet, marking on each the place of junction; then cut
away the bark and a part of the wood, from two to three inches in
length, both of the stock and cion; after which, make a slit up-
wards in the cion, so as to form a tongue, and another downwards
in the stock, as directed for whip-grafting, and insert the one into
the other, making all parts fit in an exact manner, particularly
the rinds or barks, and tie them closely together with bass; after
which, cover the whole with a due quantity of grafting clay, as di-
rected in the other methods. In this mode of grafting, the cion is
not separated from the tree, until it is firmly united with the stock,
nor is the head of the latter, generally, cut off, till this time,
though it is sometimes performed with the head of the stock cut
off, under the idea that its whole efforts would then be directed to
the nourishment of the graft, which is not of as much advantage as
might be imagined.

If the plants which you inai'ch, are exposed to strong winds, it
will be proper to make them fast, either to stakes stuck into the

2 K

258 THE NURSERY. [March.

ground for that purpose, or to some other more convenient support,
to prevent their being displaced thereby.

The stocks and grafts are to remain for three months, or upwards,
before you unbind them; at the expiration of that time, take off the
clay and bandages, and, if v^^ell taken, separate the graft from the
mother plant, being careful to do this with a perfectly sharp knife,
cutting it off vifith a slope downwards to the stock; and if not done
in grafting, the head of the stock must also be cut off close to the
graft, and afterwards the stem kept free from any under shoots. If
at this lime the graft and stock, particularly if not extremely well
united, were tied again, gently as before, fresh clayed, and those
suffered to remain on for a month or five weeks, it would be of
considerable advantage.

The walnut, fig, and mulberry, with many other trees, which
do not succeed by the common methods of grafting, will take free-
ly by this, and also various kinds of evergreens. It is in frequent
use to ingraft a fruit-bearing branch, upon a common stock of the
same family, by which means you have a tree with many fruit, in a
few months, that would take perhaps as many years, when left to
nature, before it would show a single one. This is frequently prac-
tised on orange trees, and other green-house plants.

This method of grafting is not to be performed so early in the
season as the others, its being most successful when the sap is
flowing; in the middle states, I would recommend doing it towards
the latter end of April. But it is not to be practised where the
other methods will succeed; for trees propagated in this way, are
always observed to grow more weakly, and never to the size of
those which are propagated by budding, or the other modes of
grafting.

Grafting Peaches, JSTectarines, and Apricots.

Peaches, nectarines, and apricots, will succeed by grafting, but
propagating them by inoculation is much preferable; however, if
you graft them, let it be done early, always before they shew flow-
ers, having their cions taken off three weeks previous to the time
of performing the operation, and deposited in the earth till that pe-
riod, as before directed for those of other fruit-trees; in the choice
of which you must be very particular, so as to get the best ripened
young wood, round, plump, and short jointed, and with very little
pith; all these will take as freely on plump stocks, as on their
own kinds, and if intended for walls or espaliers, will be more per-
manent, as they are not so subject to be destroyed by worms.
Graflir.g may be also performed, to any desirable extent, on most
kinds of forest and ornamental trees, such as elm, ash, oak, holly,
althea-frutex, &c. &c. whose cions are not soft-wooded, nor too
full of pith.

Management of Fruit-Trees, grafted and budded last Fear.

Those fruit-trees which were grafted last year, should now have
their shoots shortened, that they may send forth lateral branches to
form regular heads; if they are intended for espaliers or wall-
trees, observe the method recommended in page 216; if for stand-

March.] THE NURSERY. 259

ards, the stems must be trained up to a proper height, and then top-
ped, or some of the shoots shortened, so as to produce handsome
well furnished heads.

Tlie stocks, which were budded the last summer, and in which
the buds still remain dormant, should now have their heads cut off,
a little above the budded parts; by which means the whole nourish-
ment will go to the inoculations, which will soon begin to advance
their first shoots.

In proceeding to this, cut the head of the stock ofT sloping, behind
the inoculated bud, either almost close thereto, or about a hand's
breadth above it; which part of the stock remaining above, will serve
for tying thereto the first shoot from the bud in summer, to secure
it from the wind, but must be cut down close next spring

The stumps left last season for a similar purpose, should now be
cut off close to where the bud was inserted, cutting them effectually
in to the clean fresh wood, in order that the wounds may cover over
and heal, which will be effected in one season, if no spotted or un-
sound wood be left.

Transplanting Stocks to bud and graft upon.

Make new plantations of stocks, to bud and graft the different
kinds of choice fruit upon.

Many of those raised from seeds, &c. last year, will now be ready
for this purpose.

Let these be planted out as soon in the month as the weather will
permit; in rows three or four feet asunder, and at least twelve inches
<listance from one another in the row. They should be planted by
line, either dibbling in the small plants, or the larger ones trench-
ed or holed in with the spade; or you may cut out small trenches by
line, placing the plants therein at the above distance, and turn the
earth in upon their roots, treading it gently along.

Sowing Stones to raise Stocks for Grafting.

Where plum, peach, apricot and cherry stones, &c. were neglect-
ed, or could not in consequence of the weather be sown last month,
let it be done as early in this as possible, agreeably to the rules laid
down in page 152, which see.

Sowing Kernels of Apples, Pears and Qiiinces, for Stocks.

If the sowing of these were neglected, or impracticable last
month, let it be done as early in this as possible, sowing them tole-
rably thick in beds, and covering them with light dry earth, a little
better than half an inch deep. These will be fit to plant out in nur-
sery rows next season: but they would succeed much better, if sown
in October or November, if not carefully preserved in sand or earth,
or unless they are at the time of sowing, taken fresh out of the fruit.
See page 157.

260 '^'HE NURSERY. [March.

Solving Haws, for raising Thorn-quicks.

It will be necessary to sow your haws as early in this month as
possible, if not done in the last, for the reasons assigned in the JVur-
sery, for February, page 152, See. where you will find ample direc-
tions, both for the preparation and sowing of the seeds, &c.

You may any time this month, particularly after the middle, or
towards the latter end, take up your one or two year old seedling
quicks, out of the beds where they were raised, and plant them into
nursery rows, as directed in page 155. Should it be your intention
to let them remain in those rows, to grow to a large size, the more
immediately to make a fence when planted out, set them at greater
distances than there directed, but they always succeed best, when
planted young.

During the continuance of the plants in those rows, they must be
kept free from weeds, and each spring and autumn it will be neces-
sary to dig between them to loosen the earth, which will greatly
strengthen and invigorate their growth.

Live Hedges.

Live hedges are already become objects of serious importance,
particularly in those parts of the Union in which timber has got
scarce, and must inevitably become more so in a very rapid progres-
sion; therefore, the sooner the citizens turn their attention to the
cultivation and planting of them, the greater portion of their benefits
will they themselves enjoy, and the sooner will they lay the founda-
tion of a rich inheritance for their children, and of an ornamental
and useful establishment for their country.

Our farmers not being accustomed to the making of live hedges,
may for some time be very tardy in attempting it; those of the
greater penetration will not hesitate a moment, but commence
immediately; others will look on for years to see the result, which
will be so much time, profit and pleasure, lost to themselves, and
consequently, a proportionate injury done to their posterity. Some
will try the experiment; but in such a half way, negligent slovenly
manner, as to insure disappointment; I would advise such to hold
fast by the fiost arid rail, and not to lose time in doing more harm
than good.

It has been asserted, that any other than ground hedges, that is,
such as are established on the plain surface, without a ditch, are un-
necessary in the United States; but why in the United States, any
more than in those countries, that ages of experience and necessity
have taught to give a decided preference to the hedge and ditch?
Such may succeed in very good ground, and with uncommon care,
but it is an incontrovertible and well known fact,' that a hedge and
ditch will make a more formidable fence in three years, than a
ground hedge will in ten.

Having now given my decided and unequivocal opinion, as to
which is preferable, for outward fences, I shall proceed to give the
best instructions in my power, for the formation of both; the more

March.] THE NURSERY. 261

especially as the ground-hedge is the neatest and most eligible for
internal hedges, in gardens and pleasure grounds.

The hawthorn, of all other kinds, is the most suitable for outward
fences; and here 1 think it necessary to remark, that the common
European white-thorn, or Cratagus Oxyacantha of Linnseus, appears
to answer well in America, but is not of so rapid growth, as our
cockspur thorn, or Cratisgus Cms galli; the former makes a closer
and thicker hedge, but not more formidable, nor so immediately as
the latter. We have many varieties of native hawthorns, as described
in page 155, 8cc. either of which will answer very well, and conve-
nience must be considered in respect to choice; but when choice
can be made, a preference should be given to the cockspur thorn, or
rather to that kind which is observed to grow most luxuriantly, in
the neighbourhood in which it is intended to be planted.

Tlie Hedge and Ditch.

The months of October, November and December, will be the
most eligible periods, in the southern states, for making this kind
of fence; particularly, as their frosts can do no injury to the ditch,
and the roots will have an early establishment, and consequently be
the better prepared, to encounter the summer heats. In the middle
and eastern states, I would prefer doing this business in March, or
early in April; as the ditch, in that case, would have one year's
advantage of the frost, which in some kinds of soil, would have a
considerable effect, particularly in the first year, by swelling the
earth in the face of the ditch, causing it to moulder down, and there-
by expose the roots of the quicks; but this can be obviated, by leav-
ing a scarcement in the front, as hereafter directed.

Strong year old quicks will answer very well for laying in the face
of a ditch, but such as have had the advantage of two year's growth
in nursery rows, after being transplanted when one year old from
the seed-bed, will sooner form a good fence, or two year old plants
from the seed-bed will answer a very good purpose. Be particular
in the taking of them up, not to injui-e their roots but as little as pos-
sible, and to sort them into three different lots, the smallest, larger,
and largest, and also to plant each lot together; for the mixing of the
small with the large, is very injudicious, as the former in a little
time, would be smothered and overgrown by the latter, and vacan-
cies consequently formed in the hedge.

Previous to planting, prune off the extremities of any long strag-
gling and wounded roots, and also cut off the heads of the plants
about seven inches above the earth mark-where they stood in the
ground, and likewise any side branches that remain; let no con-
sideration prevent your doing this, for on it depends much of your
success.

Having your plants in readiness, and dressed in this manner, lay
them by the heels in the earth, to be taken up as wanted, lest their
roots should become dry and be injured thereby. Then proceed to
form your ditch, which should be four feet wide at least at top, nar-
rowing with a gentle slope on each side towards the bottom, to the
perpendicular depth of two teet and a half, where it should be one

262 THE NURSERY. [March,

foot wide. The more your ground is subject to slip by heavy rains,
the greater slope must be ti;iven to the bank side.

Begin by cutting the surface sod of the ditch, into squares of con-
venient size, and about three inches deep, having previously lined
out and cut both sides with a spade, sloping inwards as above inti-
mated, and lay a row of them, with the grassy surface under, six
inches inward from the edge on the bank side; lay on top of this
row of sods, two inches of the loose and mellow earth, that is, the
best the ditch affords, and also a quantity of it behind them, for
about eighteen inches or two feet, breaking it very fine with the
spade: on this lay your quicks nearly in a horizontal manner, their
tops being a little elevated, and at the distance of six inches one
from the other, and so far in, that 3 or 4 inches of their tops may
remain uncovered when the ditch is finished. Spread the roots to
advantage, and cover them well with the mouldry earth that drop-
ped from the surface sod: this is necessary, in order to give their
roots the advantage of the best soil, and should on no account be ne-
glected. Then proceed to finish your ditch and bank, laying the re-
mainder of the surface sods in front of the bank, as you had done
with the first row, giving it exactly a similar slope to that of the
ditch, and the whole bank such a form, as if it wus taken up at
once out of the ditch, and turned upside down. The scarcement left
in front, throws the bank so far back, as not to bear heavily on the
side of the ditch to crush it down, and it also will receive and retain
a considerable portion of the rain that slides down along the face of
the bank, by which means the earth in front will be kept in a more
moist state, than if no such thing was left.

Were you to lay in two rows of quicks in the front, the second
eight or nine inches above the first, and the plants in each row nine
or ten distant, placing those of the upper, opposite the intervals of
the lower, it would be the most effectual method of making a better
and more immediate fence. A very slight paling, on top of the
bank, that will defend the quick for three years, will be sufficient;
and if the land in front is not in cultivation, but under stock, » si-
milar fence may be necessary to prevent their going into the ditch,
and reaching the plants; but if you take particular care to keep them
constantly wed, for the two first years, which is absolutely necessary
or all is lost labour, they will have the less inducement to approach
them.

There are many other methods of making hedge and ditch fences;
but having found, from ample experience, the above to be the most
successful, I shall confine myself exclusively to it, lest too much
speculation might lead people asiray, and retard the progress of this
important business.

Ground- Hedges.

The best method of planting a hedge on a level, or without a
ditch, is to plough a slip of ground on each side of the intended
line of fence the preceding spring, and having previously dunged
it, to plant it with potatoes; taking the ordinary care to keep

March.] THE NURSERY. 263

it free from weeds during the period of their growth. In au-
tumn, the potatoes being removed, the entire slip should be
ploughed deep, gathering it up towards the centre, and in October
or March, having your quicks previously raised in the Miraery, as
directed in that department in February, to the height of two or
three feet, take up the plants carefully without injuring iheir roots,
prune off the extremities of the roots and any long straggling
shoots of their tops, then plant them in a trench made along the
centre of this slip of ground for their reception, at the distance of
from six to eight inches plant from plant, and settle the earth well
into their roots; observingi previously to planting, to match the
quicks, that is, to plant all the larger sized together, for it is im-
proper, as before observed, to intermix the small and large; as the
former would be smoothered by the latter, which would occasion in-
jurious and unsightly breaches in the fence.

If you have plenty of quicks, it will be of advantage to plant a
double row, at the distance of a foot from each other; in which case,
the plants may be set ten inches apart in the row&, placing those of
one row, directly opposite the intervals of the other. This method
I would prefer to the former.

The quicks must afterwards be protected from cattle, by palings
or some kind of dead fences, till they arrive at a proper growth not
to be injured thereby, and for the two first years kept perfectly free
from weeds, for without these precautions, it will be in vain to plant
them.

The quicks being tolerably close planted, will need no annual top
clipping to thicken them; but it will be rery proper to shorten oc-
casionally, any extraordinary vigorous top shoots, so as to keep them
all prttty equal, and also such as branch out too much at the sides.
However, it would be very adviseable to give a slight dressing to the
sides every October or March, for a few years, with a pair of hedge-
shears, which may be done in a short time, narrowing the hedge a
little towards the top, to afford the benefit of the air, rain, and dews,
to the lower side-shoots: this will encourage their growth, and cause
the hedge to be well furnished from bottom to top.

When a hedge of this kind is to be made, it might be the most
convenient way to plant it with a few feet of some established post
and rail fence, and erect another as many feet from it on the oppo-
site side, each at such a distance as would be sufficient to keep off
cattle; here it would be effectually protected until arrived at a
proper height and strength, when both these ranges of palings might
be taken away to answer similar purposes; but again and again,
would I suggest the necessity of keeping the plants free from the
annoyance of weeds, during the first two or three years of their
growth, after which they will be completely furnished and out of
their power.

The autumn or spring following after planting, examine your
hedge, and if any of the plants have died, or seem to be in a vi-.vy
bad state of health, replace them with others from the Nursery,
placing some fresh earth to the roots of each

264 'i'HE NURSERY. [March.

Crab and Jlpfle Hedges.

The common wild thorny crab will make an excellent grovmd, or
ditch hedge, and will thrive in a poorer soil than the thorn; and
hedges raised from the pippins of apples, do tolerably well and form
strong fences; the former is raised from the pippins, and the latter
can be propagated in abundance by sowing the pumice, very ihick^
immediately after being pressed for cyder, on a bed of good
ground properly prepared, and covering the whole with fine light
earth, near an inch deep: a few plants will appear soon after sow-
ing, but a great crop will come up in spring, which may afterwards
be used for stocks to graft on, and also for hedges, where more suit-
able kinds cannot be had.

Hornbeam and Beech Hedges.

Our indigenous kinds of hornbeam and beech, will make admira-
ble hedges; the seed of the former, which it produces here in great
abundance, will require the same preparation and management in
every respect, as directed for haws in page 152, &c.

In Westphalia and other parts of Germany, the hornbeam is in
great repute for hedges. The German husbandman throws up a
parapet of earth, with a ditch on each side, and plants his sets,
raised from layers, in such a manner, that every two plants intersect
each other; there he cuts off the bark and a little of the wood from
each, and binds them close together with a hay-band. The plants
unite, and form a living palisado, which being pruned or dressed
annually with discretion, will in a few years make an impenetrable
.fence. INIost other kinds may be treated in the same manner.

The seeds or mast, as they are commonly called, of the beech.,
may be sown as soon as ripe, but as the ground inice, squirrels,
Sec. are extremely fond of them, it will be the better way to preserve
them in dnj sand till March, to be then sown, either in drills, or
broad cast in beds, covering them not more than half an inch deep;
for, as they rise with very broad seed-leaves, they could never work
up through a thick covering. The beech vegetates the first spring
after the perfection of its seed; the hornbeam not till the second.

Honey -Locust and Elm Hedges.

The Gleditsia triacanthos^ or honey locust, will make very good
hedges; the seeds are to be sown in March, and covered half an
inch deep; they will come up freely, and when a year old, may be
transplanted into nursery rows, till of sufficient size to plant. If to
be planted in the face of ditches, they will in the second year be in
prime condition for that purpose.

The elm makes a good hedge, and is propagated by seed, suckers,
or layers; when by seed it should be sown as soon as ripe, which
in the middle states, is between the the 15th and 20th of May; it may
be sought for and collected at that time, dried for four or five days,

March.] THE NTJ^SERY. 265

and then sown broad cast on a bed of good earth, covering the seed
not more than a quarter of an inch deep; ihey will vegetate imme-
diately, and when up, must be kept very clean and free from weeds.
All the kinds of elms may be propagated freely from layers^ in the
manner directed under that article.

Holly Hedges.

Of all other plants, there is none that makes a more durable,
close, and beauiifid hedge, than the hol/y, nor one that agrees better
with the shears: it may be clipped and dressed to any form; the
seeds do not vegetate till the second spring after their being ripe,
and consequently must be treated as directed for haws, page 152,
&c. They must remain two years in the seed-bed, and then
should be planted eitiier in the face of ditches, or into nursery
rows, if intended for ground hedges; for wuich there is no equal,
as to beauty, shelter, and closeness. The latter end of April ib the
best season to plant them: they never thrive well when taken out
of the woods, but are very prosperous when cultivated by seedj
though not of rapid growth for a few years.

White Mulberry and Lombardy -Poplar Hedges.

The wAzVe mulberry makes a tolerably good hedge, and may be
easily propagated by washing the seed out of the pulp when the
fruit is ripe, drying and preserving it till the latter end of March,
or beginning, of April, when it may be sown on a bed of light rich
earth, and covered about a quarter of an inch deep; the plants will
appear towards the latter end of April, when they must be kept care-
fully wed, and when a year old some of them will be fit to plant
into nursery rows; the small plants may remain in the seed-bed a
second year, and then transplanted either into the face of ditches, or
nursery rows, as above. They are also cultivated by layers and
cuttings, but not so successfully by the latter, as by either of the
former methods.

The Lombardy /lofitar is propagated by cuttings, which grow
very freely; the most eligible size for these, though much larger
are frequently used, are such as are from three quarters of an inch
to an inch in diameter, about twelve or fourteen inches long, and
are to be planted two-thirds of their lengths into the earth. These
and the mulberry bear clipping very well, bat not being spiny, they
never make formidable fences.

Juniper and Red Cedar Hedges.

Juniper and red cedar make good garden hedges, particularly the
former, and are very proper for affording shelter to such quarters
of the garden, or nursery, as are set apart for the raising of tender
plants in; both may be propagated abundantly from seeds, which
do not vegetate till the second spring after ripening, consequently
they must be prepared as directed for haws, and when sown, should

2L

266 THE NURSERY. [March.

not be covered more than a quarter of an inch deep; they may re-
main in the seed-bed for two years, if not too thick, and then planted
into nursery rows; or the largest may be taken up when a year
old, and planted therein, provided, that they have grown freely. The
juniper may be raised by cuttings, planted in a shady border, towards
the latter end of this month.

Few and Privet Hedges.

Yew and firivet make neat garden hedges; they are both raised
from seeds and cuttings, the latter planted in March, and the seeds
of each ar* to be treated as directed for haws, not vegetating the first
spring after ripening.

Pyracantha or Evergreen-Thorn Hedges.

The Mesfiilis Pyracantha^ or evergreen-thorn, will make a tole-
rably good hedge; it is propagated by seed, which will not vegetate
till the second spring after ripening, and must be treated accord«
ingly.

Piose and Sweet-Briar Hedges.

Wild rosea and siveet-briar are sometimes used for hedges, and
may either be propagated by suckers, layers, or seeds. The best
■way to cultivate them for hedges is by seed, which must be ga-
thered in autumn when ripe, and preserved, as directed for haws,
till the spring following twelve months, and then sown.

Elder, Willow, and Mder Hedges.

The elder-tree is sometimes used for hedges, especially when a
fence is wanted as soon as possible, being of a more speedy growth
than any other kind commonly used for that purpose, though not
the most effectual nor beautiful. However, an immediate fence
may be made of it, by planting large truncheons or cuttings of the
straightest upright shoots and branches, from two or three, to six
feet long, planted either upright, a foot asunder, and wattled along
the top, to preserve them firm and even; or by planting them
slanting across one another, chequerwise, forming a sort of lattice
work, which is the most effectual method. In either way of plant-
ing, do not point and drive them in, as is commonly done, but make
holes for their reception, twelve or fifteen inches deep, with a crow-
bar; then insert their ends, and make the earth fast about them:
when driven down by force, the bark is frequently stripped, which
in a great measure prevents their rooting freely, and pushing as
vigorously, as if carefully planted.

Various kinds of iviliows are found extremely useful, to plant
along the sides of watry ditches, brooks, rivulets- or any marshy and
moist situations; and may be propagated by planting small cuttings,
or large truncheons, as directed for the elder. Either of these, you

March.] THE NURSERY. 267

may treat the following, or any succeeding spring, as tho West-
phalians do the hornbeam, noticed in page 264.

The alder is sometimes made use of, as a fence, in moist swampy
places; it is propagated abundantly by suckers, layers, or seeds.
The seeds, if sown in March, covered very lightly, and when up
kept free from weeds, will grow prosperously.

Black Thorn Hedges.

The blackthorn or sloe^ is a tolerable good shrub for a fence, but
is subject to spread too much by suckers, by which it can be propa-
gated; but the best plants are always produced from the stones of
the fruit, collected when ripe, and then sown; or preserved in
sand or earth till early in March, when you are to sow and cover
them near an inch deep. They will vegetate the first season.

Plum-leaved Viburnum Hedges.

The Viburnum firunifolium, or black haw, is an indigenous plant,
and well adapted for hedges. It may be propagated in abundance
by collecting the berries in autumn, and managing them in every
respect as directed for haws.

^o^e.— When you have but small quantities of such seeds as re-
quire a year's preparation previous to sowing, you may mix them
with light sandy earth; which mixture put into garden pots, first
placing a holluw shell, or something similar, with the concave side
under, over the hole in the bottom of each, the better to suffer any
extra moisture to pass off; then place the pots in some dry border
up to their rims in the earth, bui not deeper; observing to cast
out the whole contents, rubbing and mixing it well together three
or four times in the course of the following summer, and to sow the
seeds, as before directed, early in the second spring; or you may use
shallow boxes, not deeper than six or eight inches, having their
bottoms perforated with several holes, and covered with shells, &c.
but by no means sink them in the earth deeper than their edges, as
you have nothing to fear from the frost; but, if covered in sum-
mer with moss, or any thing that will keep the earth moderately
moist, the belter; or, during that season, you may plant the pots or
boxes in some shady border.

Additional Observations on Hedges.

It is very ineligible to mix two or more kinds of plants in any
hedge, for they seldom grow equally, and the more vigorous sort
will destroy the other; nor is it proper, for the same reason, to plant
trees intended for timber among either.

Should you have a variety of the preceding kinds in forwardness
for planting, it would be proper to observe, in the surrounding
country, what soil and situation each kind thrives best in, when
growing in a wild and uncultivated state, which will enable you to

268 THE NURSERY. [March.

give to every one its favourite. This will be found of importance,
and worthy of being aitendcd to.

The liuropean white-thorn does not thrive well in a dry gravel or
sand, nor jn a cold spuey clay; a good strong loam is its favourite.

"When young hedge plants, of any kind, become stunted and
hide-bound, in consequence of the poverty of 'he ground, &c. it
will be proper to head them down to within two inches of the
ground, either in the months of October or March, cutting them
off clean and smooth; observing, however, that this is not to be
done to one here and there, but to the whole row out of the face, as
far as they aie in that condition. The summer following they will
proi!uce vigorous and prosperous shoots.

Wlien you have crab hedges, which certainly forms very good
and durable ones, you may encourage one vigorous straight shoot-
ing plant, at every fifty feet distance, bv pruning and cleaning up
their stems till out of the reach of cattle, retarding the ascending
growth of the others by annuttl topping; then they may be grafted
with any good kinds of cider apples, and in a few years will pro-
duce fruit in abundance.

Hedt^es raised from the pippins of apples may be treated in the
sanie way; but you may suffer some to stand ungrafted, for many
will yield very good cider fruit, and perhaps some may produce
new and superior k nds. You will be able to judge by leaf, shoot
and bud, which are most likely to produce the best fruit, and which
not, and manage them accordingly.

We have various other plants that might answer for live hedges,
which due observation and a little experience will point out; but
upon the whole, I am of opinion, that the cocks/iur thorn will an-
swer a better purpose with us, for outward, strong, and durable
fences, than any other.

Plashing of Hedges.

This is a very necessary operation, especially when hedges are
grown old, or have been so neglected, as that gaps are forn»cd in
several places; and indeed it is the practice in countries where the
greatest attention is paid to them, either to plash, or cut them all
clean down to within six inches of the groimd, every fourteeii or
fifteen years. To perform this business, you must be provided
with a good sharp hedge bill, hand-saw, and a pair of strong leather
gloves, that will reach up to your elbows, to protect your hands and
arms irom the spines or thorns: unless you are provided with
these, you will have a bloody job of it; but being so fortified, it
will lie l)ut a recreative amusement.

Then select some of the main upright stems, at distances in
proportion to the general growth of the hedge, to serve for stakes,
which are to be cut off with the saw at the heigh? of three or four
feet from the roots; other stakes are to be drove down in those va-
cancies, where growing ones do not occur, between which, as well
as the former, to plash and lay the general branches; observing,
that the shorter the shoots which are to be plashed, the closer the

March.] THE NURSERY. 269

stakes should be to one another. The remainder of the hedge yon
are then to thin, leaving only a sufficiency of the best and longest
middle-sized shoots, to lay down and work in between those stakes,
cutting the others off', in a sloping manner, within five or six inches
of the ground, always preferring the saw to the bill, for this pur-
pose, when it can be used conveniently. Proceed then to lay down
the intended shoots, first lopping off the straggling side branches,
and cutting or gashmg occasionally such of the larger growths as
are not pliant enough to yield and keep their intended stations, ob-
serving to cut them no deeper than what is absolutely necessary;
lay and weave them in between the stakes almost to a horizontal
position, all leaning one way, and their top extremities terminating
as much as possible on the ditch side, if any; if not, equilly on
both. When the hedge is thus plashed, finish the top all the way
with some of the longest and most pliant, but stout of the shoots
which were first cut out, previously divesting them of all their
side branches, i'ud working two together, lapping round and over
one another between each siake, by which the whole plashing will
be kept down to its proper birth; then with the hedge-bill, or
shears, dress and lop off" any projecting or straggling branches at
the sides, to within six inches of the hedge, and the work is finish-
ed.

Never lay your plashes too upright, but near to a level; by so do-
ing, the sap will the better break out in several places, for the pro-
duction and nourishment of a number of young side shoots, and not
run so much to the ends, as it would if laid at a higher elevation.
Also. av. id crowding your plashes too much, and never lay in more
than can conveniently be wove between the stakes; by which the
young productions will have the benefit of the air, and grow much
stronger than otherwise.

Old overgrown fences, which have been planted in the hedge
and ditch way, may be all cut clean off with the saw. within six
inches of their roots, and the fallen earth in the bottom of the
ditch dug up and laid at the back of them; they will shoot vigo-
rously, and soon form a fine fresh hedge.

Large ground hedges will be improved, by cutting them down at
intervals often or fifteen years, to the height of three, four, or five
feet, and where vacancies occur, to fill them with plashing, always
preferring, on these occasions, the saw to the bill, especially when
the shoots are large.

The Flam, Tulip, and A^ettle Trees.

The Platanus occidenfalis, or Plane-tree, commonly called the
large button wood, and in some places, though very improperly,
sycamore, is a valuable tree for shade and many other useful pur-
poses. It may be propagated, either by cuttings, layers, or seed;
but the last method is much preferable to either of the forn.er, not
only with respect to this, but to every other tree bearing seeds,
which may be cultivated for its timber; and although U may appear
more tedious at first, it will in the end be found the most expedi-

270 1HE NURSERY. [March.

^ous and profitable. They may be sown, either in November,
when ripe, or in March, first breaking the balls of seed, and sepa-
rating them effectually, mixing them with some dry earth or sand,
and then sowing them even on the surface of prepared four feet
wide beds, in the Nursery, and covering them about a quarter of
an inch deep, or a little better, if the earth is fine and light: coo
deefi covering is injurious to all kinds of seeds; for nature never
designed more than a sufficiency to promote and give action to vege-
tation. They will come up the first season, and the next or succeed-
ing year may be planted into nursery rows.

The Lirioder,dron TuHpifera, or Tulip-tree, commonly, but very
improperly, called poplar, is best propagated by seed, which should
be sown in November when ripe, or preserved in sand or earth till
March, and then sown, covering them half an inch deep. Those
sown in November will all grow the spring following; but, if kept out
of the ground, in a dry state, till spring, a great number of them
will not vegetate till the next year.

The Celtis occidentalisy or Nettle-tree, is propagated by seed;
which, if sown in November when ripe, or preserved in earth or
sand till March, and then sown, will generally vegetate the same
season; but, if the berries are kept dry till spring, the greater
number of them will not grow till the next year. They should be
covered about an inch deep.

Mafles.

The Acer argenteum or silvery leaved, and Acer rubrum, or scar-
let maples, perfect their seeds in May, and should be sown imme-
diately after having been collected; they will vegetate directly, and
produce fine plants the first season, if kept free from weeds. The
seeds of the former do not keep well till spring, but those of the
latter will.

The Sugar, Canada, Ash-leaved, Pennsylvania, and Mountain
maples, and also the Acer majus, or sycamore, may be sown either
in autumn or March, and will succeed well in either season: if
sown in autumn, cover them about three quarters of an inch deep;
if in spring, half an inch will be sufficient. When about a foot high
in the seed beds, plant them early in spring into nursery rows, at
proper distances.

Catalpa, Stveet-gum, Papaw, and Persimmon.

The Bignonia Catalpa will grow freely from seed, which is to be
preserved in the siliques or pods till March, and then sown: or it
may be propagated either by layers or suckers.

The Liquidamber Siyraciflua, or maple-leaved sweet-gum, grows
freely from seed sown early in spring.

The Aiinona triloba, or common papaw, is a hardy plant, and may
be propagated by sowing the seeds about an inch deep, either in Oc-
tober, November, or March.

March.] THE NURSERY. 271

The Diosfiyroa virgintana, persimmon, or American date plum,
is best cultivated from seed sown in autumn, soon after ripe, or in
March; if kept up till spring, some of them will not vegetate till the
second year after sowing.

Chesnuts, Walnuts, Hickories and Oaks.

About the middle of this month, plant the nuts of the European
and American eatable chesnuts, also of the horse chesnut, and like-
wise of the different varieties of walnuts and hickories, which you
■wish to propagate. All the above kinds should be sown in drills, first
throwing the nuts into a tub of water, and rejecting such of them as
swim, covering them with light rich mould about two inches deep.
The drills may be three feet asunder, and the nuts planted about six
or eight inches from one another in the rows.

The different varieties of oak succeed best, when sown imme-
diately after being ripe; but in that case they have to encounter
the depredations of mice, squirrels, &c. to avoid which, they may be
kept in earth or sand till this time; but as most of them will be
sprouted, you are to take them carefully up, without breaking the
radicles, and plant them in drills two feet asunder, covering the
acorns not more than three quarters, or at most an inch deep, with
light loose mould.

The whole of the above kinds may remain in these seed drills for
two years, keeping them at all times very free from weeds; and as
they are generally, but more particularly the walnut kinds, subject
to push down long tap-rooots, and not to form many lateral ones, it
will be proper, nay it will be necessary, in order to insure success
in transplanting, when they have had one or two years' growth, to
open, in the spring, a small trench close to each row, and then,
with a very sharp, spade, to cut the descending roots about six or
eight inches under ground, casting back the earth when done. This
will cause them to throw out a nurpber of laterals, and the spring
following you can transplant them with safety into nursery rows, at
greater distances, to remain till wanted to plant out, where finally in?
tended.

Robinia, or Locust Tree.

The Robinia Pseudo-Acacia, or common locust-tree, is said to be
superior to any other kind of wood, for ship tunnels, mill cogs, and
fence posts, as well as for various other purposes. Its culture is
very easy, as it may be propagated in great abundance, by collecting
the seeds in autumn when ripe, preserving them dry till March,
then sowing them in a bed of good sandy loam, which is their fa-
vourite soil, and covering them half an inch deep. They will come
up in the course of the following month numerously, for no seeds
grow more freely, notwithstanding what some unexperienced per-
sons assert to the contrary. They require no preparation what-
ever; sow them as above directed, and a good crop is certain.
When a year old, transplant them out of the seed-bed into nursery

272 THE NURSERY, [March,

rows, four feet distant, and plant from plant one foot in the row.
Havint? two or three year's .growth in these rows, they may be plant-
ed successfully in any warna and tolerably rich sandy ground. I'hey
may also he propagated by suckers, which they throw up ahniidunily;
especially, it some of their wide extending roots be cut through with
an axe, &.c.

The Robinia glutinosa^ is a charming plant; it produces in May tm-
mei'ous bunches of delightful flowers, grows to a good size, and is a
great ornament in pleasure grounds. It may be propagated by seeds
in like manner, or by grafting it on the former.

The Robinia /lisftida, or Rose Acacia, is a most beautiful flower-
ing shrub, of humble growth, and may be propagated by suckers,
which it produces in great numbers, or by grafting it on either of
the above species.

The Ash, Lime, and Sour-Oum.

The various kinds oi Fraxinus or ash, are propagated by seeds,
which are to be prepared in the same manner as directed for haws,
in page 152, Sec. for they do not vegetote till the second spring after
the seeds are ripe. All the kinds take freely by grafting on one
another.

The Tilia americana, or American lime or Linden tree, together
with every other species of the same genus, is easily propagated by
layers, or by sowing the seeds in October or November, or in March,
if preserved in dry sand till that time. Sow the seeds on an even sur-
face, clap them in, with the back of a spade, and cover them a little
better than half an inch deep.

The J\fyssa integrifolia, or Upland Tupelo-tree, or Sour-Gum, is
propagated by seed, suckers, layers or cuttings; if by seed, sow
them immediately when ripe, covering them an inch deep; some of
them will come up the sprini^ following, but many not till the se-
cond year. The better way would be, to prepare them as directed for
haws, and in the ensuing March examine them; if you then find ma-
ny showing symptoms of vegetation, sow them; if not, let them re-
main till that time twelve months.

Deciduous Cypress, Wliite Cedar, and Arbor Vitoe.

The Cufiressus disticha, bald or deciduous cypress, grows to an
enormous large size, the foliage of which is uncommonly beautiful
during the summer months. It is propagated by sowing the seed in
March, in beds of good mellow earth, covering them half an inch
deep; they must be kept very free from weeds, and \'hen two years
old, transplant them from the seed-beds into nursery rows.

The Cu/iressus Tkyoides, or White Cedar, is propagated by sow-
ing the seeds, which are very thin and flat, when taken out of the
cones, in boxes of light earth, taken from swampv ground, and
covered about the eighth of an inch, or a little better, with loose
rich mould sifted evenly over them; they must have frequent
sprinklings of water, and when up, and that the heat increases, the

March.] THE NURSERY. 273

boxes must be removed into the shade. You must keep them very
free from weeds, as many of the seeds, will not grow till the second
year. When they are two years old transplant them into nursery
rows in moist light swampy ground.

The Thuya occidentalism or American Arbor-Vitae, is propagated
by layers and cuttings, or by sowing the seed as directed for the
white cedar, with this difference, that it will not be necessary to pro-
cure swampy earth for it, as it thrives best in upland.

The Thuya orientalise or Chinese Arbor-Vitae, may be propagated
in like manner, as the occidentalis.

All the above kinds, if raised by seeds, will require some protec-
tion during the two first years, from very rigorous frosts.

Pines, and Firs.

The Pines, and Firs, though ranked under the same genus,
(Pinus,) maybe easily distinguished from one another; as the leaves
of the former, come out by two, three, or more, from the same
sheath; and those of the latter singly. In the cedar of Lebanon, and
Larch, they arise in bunches from the same bud, spreading out
every way.

It is also to be remarked, that all the Pines have a tendency to
drive down tap-roots, and therefore, are more impatient of trans-
planting than the Firs, whose roots, generally take a lateral direc-
tion. The Larch, is the only deciduous plant of the whole family.
As all these kinds are not only very useful, but extremely ornament-
al, and as none of them can be transplanted from the woods with
good success, I shall be the more minute in giving the true methods
of raising them; so as to insure thereby, the growth and prosperity
of the plants.

The Pinus Cedrus, or Cedar of Lebanon, is rather too tender for
those parts of the Union, where the winter frosts are very rigorous;
but will succeed tolerably well, in warm exposures in the middle
states, if protected from its violence for a few years, and be gradually
inured thereto. The seeds when pi'ocured, are always in the cones,
and are extremely difficult to be got out; the method is; bore the
cone through with a small gimlet direct in the centre^ entering it at
the but-end and working out at top; then drive in a round iron or
hard wooden pin and split the cone, after which, raise the scales one
after another with a knife, and carefully pick out the seeds which are
very tender.

Having your seeds ready, sow them in a box of good fresh earth,
covering them near half an inch deep; in the middle states, the
first week in April, will be the best time to do this; but early in
March will be preferable, if you have a green-house or hot-beds, to
place the box therein; give them a little sprinkling of water fre-
quently, just what will be sufficient to keep the earth moist, for
much would rot or burst the seeds. When up, do not expose them
too much to the sun, at any time during the season, nor keep them
in too confined a place; and on the approach of winter remove
them into the green-house, or place them under the protection of

2 M

274 THE NURSERY. [March.

glasses, and so treat them for two years, without removing them
out of the seed-box. Then, early in April, transplant them careful-
ly into separate pots, treating them all this time, and for two or
three years more, as you do green-house plants; after which, turn
some of them with the earth out of the pots, and plant them in dry
warm exposures.

The Pinus Finea, or Italian Stone Pine, grows to a considerable
height, and is cultivated chiefly for its nuts and tlie beauty of its fo-
liage. In Italy and the southern parts of Europe, the kernels are
frequently served up in deserts during the winter season, and are as
sweet as Almonds, but have a slight flavour of turpentine. The cones
are generally four or five inches long, and when for some time, ex-
posed to the sun, they open and drop out the nuts; which, should be
sown towards the latter end of March, in drills, and covered about
half or three quarters of an inch deep; when they have had one, or
two years growth, in these rows, cut their tap-roots as directed for
walnuts in page 271, and the next season, you may transplant them,
about the first week in April, either into nursery rows, at greater
distances, or, where they are to remain.

The Pinus Cimbra, or Siberian Stone Pine. There is a variety
of this, that grows in Switzerland, and higher up the Alps than any
other Pine, and is found on elevations where the Larch will not
grow. The stones are shorter than those of the Italian Pine, and
full as thick. The wood is short, having scarcely any grain, and
very fit for the carver. The peasants of the Tyrol, where this tree
abounds, make various sorts of carved works with the wood, which
they dispose of in Switzerland, among the common people, who
are fond of the resinous smell which it exhales. Both the varieties
may be cultivated in the same manner, as directed for the Italian
Stone Pine.

All the other species and varieties of Pines and Firs, may be suc-
cessfully raised in tiie following manner.

Being provided with good fresh seeds, for on this every thing de-
pends; prepare for their reception, as early in the sjiring as your
ground will work free and light, and pulverize finely in the working,
beds three or four feet wide, of rich, loamy ground, by no means
subject to burn or become parched with the summer heats; then
sow the seeds on the surface so thick, as that you may expect, after
all reasonable allowances for defective seeds, kc. at leasts a plant on
every inch square of the ground, or at the rate of a pound of good
seed to a bed three feet and a half wide and sixty long. The sowing
of them so thick, is indispensable, for unless they completely cover
the surface, they will, if not carefully shaded, he destroyed in their
infant state, by the summer heat; early sowing is also necessary,
for they have nothing to appiehend from subsequent frosts, that
their roots may be established before the heat overtakes them.
After the seeds are sown, sift over the smaller sized kinds, about a
quarter of an inch of fine, rich, light mould, and over the larger,
nearly half an inch; then place over the beds, nets made for that
purpose, or any old small meshed fishing nets, to keep off the birds;

March.] THE NURSERY. 275

for all the kinds, when lightly covered, which is indispensable to
their growth, generally carry up the seeds on their tops; and if
attacked by birds, which are extremely fond of them, the far
greater number will be destroyed.

The beds must be kept, completely free from weeds of any
kind, from the moment the seeds are sown, during the continuance
of the plants therein; and if you perceive their leaves turn foxy in
summer, by heat or drought, it will be necessary to give them occa-
sional shade and water. In the month of June following, sift some
fine, light, rich earth, over the beds, so as to just come up to the
foliage without covering it; which, will protect their yet tender
stems, prevent their being scalded by extraordinary heat, which
often melts them away, so as to fall flat, whilst the foliage appears
fresh; and besides, it will help to retain the moisture about their
roots and fibres.

The spring following, early in April, or as soon as you perceive
an inclination in the buds to push, pull up the largest grown plants,
of such kinds as have arrived at the height of three inches or up-
wards, but not otherwise, and plant them in drills made with a hoe
or spade for their reception, eighteen inches or too feet asunder,
and eight inches plant from plant in the rows; just so deep, as that
the earth may come up to their foliage; close it well about the roots,
and water them occasionally till sufficiently taken with the earth
and growing freely, and if repeated occasionally during the summer
and early autumn, the better; always giving it about the setting or
going down of the sun. The spring following, that is, when they
have two years growth in the seed beds, take them all up out of
the face, with a spade, without injuring the roots or fibres, and
plant them as above, without attempting to trim them, but laying
them in a spreading and horizontal manner in the drills. If the
ground is good and the season proves favourable, a great number
of the Larch, in particular, will have grown to a sufficient size, for
transplanting into nursery-rows, by the ensuing spring.

When the plants have stood two or three years in those rows,
they may be planted in others at greater distances, or finally where
they are intended to remain; observing however, that the fourth or
fifth year of their growth are the most successful periods for a final
transplanting; which ought always to be done, in the middle states,
between the first and fifteenth of April, earlier in the southern, and
not much later in the eastern states.

Mthcea Frutex, Laburnum, and Snowy Medlar.

The Hibiscus sijriacus, or Althaea Frutex, is propagated by sow-
ing the seeds in March, which grow very freely; all the varieties of
it, take well by grafting or budding, on one another.

The Cyiissiis Laburnum, or common Laburnum, grows freely
by sowing the seed in spring, and covering it as well as the former,
about half an inch deep.

The Mesfiiiis canadensis^ or Snowy Medlar, is a beautiful and
early flowering shrub, rises to a good height, and is a great ornament

276 A'HE NURSERY. [March.

to pleasure grounds. It is propagated abundantly by seeds, which
should be preserved in sand from the time of their being ripe till
March, and then sown and covered about half an inch deep. If kept
in a dry state till spring, some will vegetate the first season and
some not till the second. It will take by grafting or budding it, on
any kind of medlar, or on the white thorn, pear, or quince.

The Judas, Snowdrop, and Fringe Trees.

The Cercis canadensis, or American Judas tree, is one of our
most beautiful early flowering and ornamental plants; and may be
propagated, by sowing its seeds in March, as directed for the com-
mon locust tree.

The Halesia tetrafitera, or snowdrop tree, is exceeded by very
few shrubs, for the beauty of its numerous white pendant flowers.
It may be propagated by suckers or layers, or by sowing the seeds
in November when ripe, or in March, and covering them near an
inch deep, with light rich mould.

The Chionanthus virginicia, or Fringe tree, is a very ornamental
shrub, and may be cultivated by layers, suckers, or seed. Sow
the seeds when ripe in autumn, covering them an inch deep with
very fine light mould, or preserve them in earth or sand till March,
and then sow them as above; many will not rise till the second spring,
so that it will be necessary to keep the ground very free from weeds
all the time.

Magnolias.

The seeds of the different kinds of Magnolia, should be sown
immediately after being ripe, or be preserved in damp sand or earth
till March; for if kept dry till that time, very few, if any, will vege-
tate till the year following; and indeed many not until the second
season, even if sown when ripe. They may also be propagated, by
layers and suckers, and by grafting and budding upon one another.

Rhododendons, Ralmias, Azalias and Andromedas.

Each and every species and variety of the above beautiful fami-
lies of plants, may be propagated either by seeds, layers or suckers.
The finest plants are always raised from seed, and although the
process may be thought tedious, it is worth attending to; the more
especially, as they do not always succeed well when taken from the
woods, and that thousands may be raised in this way, which may be
successfully removed, to any place where wanted.

The capsules should be collected when the seeds are perfectly
ripe, and if you intend to sow them immediately, which is certainly
the better way, expose the capsules a few days to dry, but not to a
powerful sun; they will then open, and the seeds will easily shake
out, but if you do not intend sowing them till February or March,
preserve them in the capsules till that time. To have a double

March.] THE NURSERY. 277

chance, sow some on shady borders of light, dry, loamy earth, and
also in boxes, making; the ground very fine and even on the surface,
then sow the seeds thickly thereon, and cover them not more than
the eighth of an inch deep, or rather, so as barely to hide them.
Immediately cover the beds or boxes with moss, in order to shade
the surface and vegetating seed, from the influence of the sun, or
parching air; for when the small descending radicles are protruded,
if the earth gets dry below them, all will be destroyed; and the
seeds being so very minute, if covered deep, can never come up:
therefore, it will be necessary to give them shade and very frequent-
ly light sprinklings of water; the moss will prevent its washing
the earth off the seeds, and will gently communicate the moisture
to the surface thereof. When the plants begin to appear, thin the
moss, and expose them but by slow degrees as they collect strength.
If the boxes be placed in a green-house, or under the protection of
garden frames and glasses, from the time of sowing the seeds till
the middle of May, it will be a great advantage; observing, that
the plants when up, must be carefully protected from the mid-day
sun, whilst in an infant state. Towards the middle of May removb
the boxes to some comforting shade to remain there, till the latter
end of October, then place them in a warm exposure till the approach
of severe frosts, when they may be put into a garden frame, and
slightly protected during winter. Suffer the plants to remain in
the seed boxes or beds till they have two years growth, being care-
ful to give them shade and water in summer, and some slight pro-
tection in winter, and in the beginning of April, plant them out into
Nursery rows as directed for firs and pines, in page 275, in a shady
situation and a loamy soil; covering the ground about their roots
with moss, to keep it moist till the plants are established; observing,
to give them occasional watering during the first summer and au-
tumn after being thus planted out.

J^ote. — All other minute seeded shrubby plants, such as ericas,
&c. with propagated by seed, should be treated in the above man-
ner; when this difference, that they must have protection and heat
in winter, in proportion to their necessities, and soil adapted to their
respective natures. Such may also be raised under bell-glasses,
without the assistance of moss, as these confine the evaporations
from the earth, thereby preserving the moist atmosphere around the
plants, which prevents a greater exhalation of sap from the tender
leaves, than the small radicles are yet able to extract and supply;
which is frequently the cause of the sudden death and disappearance
of various other crops, in warm climates.

Calycanthus, Franklinia, and Gordonias.

The Calycanthus Jloridus, or Carolina All-spice, commonly
called the sweet-scented shrub, is deserving of a place in every
pleasure-garden, on account of the delightful odour of its flowers.
It is easily propagated by layers or suckers; the most eligible time
of laying it, is in autumn, and by the spring following twelve months,
they may be taken off, and planted with good success.

278 THE NURSERY. CMarch.

The Franklinia alatamaha^ of Bartram, is a most charming plant,
and very deservedly worthy of cultivation: it may be propagated in
the same manner as the Calicanthus; as may also, all the family of
Gordonias, which are very ornamental shrubs.

RJms or Sumach.

The various kinds of E/ms or Sutnac/i, may be |)ropa«;ated by
suckers, layers, or seeds. The seeds, if preserved in sand, and
sown early in March, will rise freely the same season, and, when
one or two years old, may be transplanted into nursery rows, and
having had there two years growth, may be planted where intended
to remain.

The Cork-Tree.

The Quercus Suber, or Cork-tree, may be cultivated with good
success in the southern states, and consequently deserves to be no-
ticed among other articles of great national importance. It is a na-
tive of the south of Europe, and the northern parts of Africa. At
present there are considerable woods of them, between Rome and
Naples, between Pisa and Leghorn, and also in Spain, Portugal, and
the south of France.

The uses of the cork are well known amongst us, by sea and land,
for its resisting both water and air: the fishermen who use nets,
and all who deal in liquors, cannot do well without it. Some per-
sons prefer it to leather for the soles of their shoes, being light,
dry, and resisting moisture; whence the Germans name it Fati-
toffel'kolts., or Slipper-wood; it was first applied to that purpose by
the Grecian ladies, whence they were called light-footed. The poor
people in Spain, and other parts of the south of Europe, lay planks
of it by their bed-side to tread on; as great persons use Turkey
and Persian carpets; they also employ it for bee-hives For this
last purpose, they roll the bark into a cylinder, or into a conical
form, and it answers the end extremely well. It is also used for
making cork-jackets, which have been found eminently useful for
mariners, passengers at sea, and for all those who resort to bathing
places, for the benefit of their health; as such will enable the most
timorous, to swim with perfect safety.

Of the cork-tree, there are two or three varieties; one with
broad leaves, a second with narrow leaves, both evergreen, and one
or two which cast their leaves in autumn; but the broad-ieaved
evergreen kind, is the most common, and said to i)roduce the best
cork. The leaves of this are entire, about two inches long, and an
inch and a quarter broad, with a little down on their under sides,
having very short foot-stalks: they continue green through the
winter, and generally fall off just before the new leaves come out;
so that the trees are often bare, for a short time. The acorns are
very like those of our common white oak.

The exterior bark is the cork, which is taken from the tree every
eight or ten years; but there is besides an interior bark, which
nourishes them, so that the stripping off the outer coat is so far

March.] THE NURSERY. 279

from injuring the trees, that it is of real service; for when it is not ta-
ken off, they seldom last lontj^er than fifty or sixty years in health;
whereas trees which are barked every eight or ten years, ^will
live 150, or more. The bark, of a young tree is porous and good for
little; however, it is useful to take it off when the trees are twelve
or fifteen years old; for without this, it will never be good. After eight
or ten years, the bark will be fit to take off again; but the second
peeling is of little use. At the third peehng, it will be in perfection,
and continue so for upwards of 150 years; for the best cork is taken
from old trees. The time for stripping is in July, or early in August,
or when the second sap flows plentifully: the operation is performed
by slitting it down on one side, raising the edges, and then it will
peel off readily.

Having procured the acorns in good condition, they are to be
treated in every respect as directed for other kinds of oak, in page
271; but if they are planted at once where intended to remain
for full growth, it will be much the best way; in which case, par-
ticular care must be taken to keep them free from weeds during
their infant state, and to protect them from the annoyance of cattle,
till grown out of their reach. The sooner the acorns are planted
after having been procured, the better, for when long kept in a dry-
state, they loose their vegetating power, like every other kind of
oak.

Curse themi exclaims the peevish planter, I shall never live to
cork a bottle with them. Have patience, good sir, you have no ob-
jection to throw by a few dollars in an iron chest, for posterity,
never to come in contact with the light of the sun, during your ex-
istence; and which will always be depreciating in value, as the
circulation of paper currency increases, and from several other cir-
cumstances; a few of which, if laid out on planting cork-trees,
would be rapidly accumulating wealth for your children, and ren-
dering a real service to your country: besides, every day you walked
out, you would have the pleasure of beholding your little family of
trees, prospering in health and beauty, humbling their boughs be-
fore you, and in their silent language returning you grateful thanks
for your fostering care, and promising to reward your offspring for
the friendly protection which you afforded them in their minor
days.

Tanner^s Sumack.

The B/ius Coriaria, or elm leaved Sumack, is a plant which should
be introduced and cultivated, particularly in the southern states,
where it will prosper in great perfection. It grows naturally in
Italy, Spain, the south of France, the Levant, about Aleppo, Rama,
and near Algiers, in Africa. The branches are used instead of oak
bark, for tanning leather; but the great and particular necessity of
its introduction into the United States is, that without it our tanners,
who are both numerous and industrious, cannot manufacture what
is called Turkey or Morocco leather, in good perfection: for it is
with this plant exclusively, that that valuable article is tanned in the

280 '*HE NURSERY. ^March.

eastern world; and a substitute for it, has not yet been discovered in
America.

It has a strong woody stem divided into many irregular branches,
and rises to the height of eight or ten feet, or more; the bark is
hairy, and of an herbaceous brown colour while young. The leaves
are composed of seven or eight pair of leaflets; terminated by an
odd one: these leaflets are about two inches long, and half an inch
wide in the middle, and are of a yellowish green colour. The flowers
grow in loose panicles at the ends of the branches, each panicle be-
ing composed of several thick spikes of flowers, sitting close to the
foot-stalks: they are of a whitish herbaceous colour, and appear in
June and July, and are followed by numerous roundish compressed
seeds.

It may easily be propagated by seed, which, if sown soon after
being ripe, or preserved in sand or earth till spring, will grow freely
the first year; but if kept dry till spring, they do not generally vege-
tate till the next season. It can also be propagated by suckers, which
it produces pretty freely, or by layers. It is tolerably hardy, and will
thrive in warm exposures in the middle states.

Mulberry -Trees and Silk- Worms.

The Morus alba, or white mulberry, is a native of China, Cochin-
china and Japan, and according to Gmelin, of Persia. It grows well
in the United States, and may be cultivated to great advantage for
the feeding of silk-worms, as well here as in France, Spain, or Italy.
In Spain, Mr. Townsend informs us, that in the province of Valen-
tia, they prefer the white mulberry; but in that of Granada, they
give a preference to the black. The Persians generally make use
of the latter, and it has been asserted upon very good authority, that
worms fed with the black mulberry, produce much better silk, than
those fed with the white. But the leaves of the black, should never
be given to the worms after they have eaten for some lime of the
white, lest they should burst.

Sir George Staunton, in his embassy to China, says, that the trees
he observed in that country, did not appear to differ from the com-
mon mulberry trees of Europe; that some of them were said to bear
white, and some red or black fruit, but that often they bore none;
and that the tender leaves growing on young shoots of the black
mulberry, are supposed to be the most succulent.

About the year of Christ 551, two Persian monks, employed as
missionaries in some of the Christian churches established in India,
penetrated into the country of Seres, or China. There they ob-
served the labours of the silk-worm, and became acquainted with
the art of working up its productions into a variety of elegant fa-
brics. They explained to the Greek emperor at Constantinople
these mysteries, hitherto unknown, or very imperfectly understood
in Europe; and undertook to bring to the capital a sufficient number
of those wonderful insects. This they accomplished, by conveying
the eggs of the silk-worm, in a hollow cane. They were hatched,
and afterwards fed with the leaves of a wild mulberry -tree, and mul-

March.] THE NURSERY. 281

tiplied and worked in the same manner, as in those climates, where
they first became the objecis of human attention and care. Vast
numbers of these insects were soon reared in different parts of Greece,
particularly it» the Peloponnesus, bicily afterwards undertook to
breed silk-worms, with equal success, and was imitated, from time
to time, in several towns of Iialy, In all these places, extensive ma-
nufactures wtre esiablished, with silk of domestic production.

From the reign of Justinian, it was mostly in Greece, and some of
the adjacent islands, that silk-worms were reared. Soon after the
conquest of Constantinople by the Venetians, in the year 1204, they
attempted the establishment of the silk manufacture in their domi-
nions; and in a short time, the silk fabrics of Venice, vied with those
of Greece and Sicily.

About the beginning of the fourteenth century, the Florentine ma-
nufactures of silk, became very considerable. It was introduced
much later into France; the manufacture of silk, though considera-
bly encouraged by Henry IV. not having been fully established
there, till under Louis XIV. by Colbert.

It is an established and well known fact, that both the white and
black mulberry trees, grow as well, in almost every part of the Uni-
ted States, as in any country on earth; and also that silk, has been
raised and manufactured into a most excellent fabric, under the di-
rection of that great and venerable patriot, and friend of mankind.
Dr. Benjamin Franklin. That so useful a pursuit should be suf-
fered to die away, in a country as well adapted for it, as any in the
universe, is as extraordinary, as it is unfortunate and injurious to
the real interest of the nation.

Trees which are designed to feed silk-worms, should never be
suffered to grow tall, but rather kept in a sort of hedge: and instead
of pulling off the leaves singly, the young twigs should be cut off
with them on; which is much sooner done, and not so injurious to
the trees. This is the more interesting, as the mulberry makes a
tolerably good hedge, and can be used with advantage for both pur-
poses.

The raising and manufacture of silk, as well as every other new
establishment, can only be brought to perfection, and consequently
into repute, by the industry of some wealthy individuals, or by
established companies, whose united efforts will surmount the diffi-
culties, which always present themselves in new undertakings; for
we every day see those that deal in small quantities, in any way of
life, or in any commodities whatever, generally unsuccessful, whilst
at the same time, others possessed of wealth, or in established soci-
eties, dealing largely in the same articles, acquire vast property and
riches; merely from being able to afford constant and regular em-
ployment for the people engaged in the business, and having due at-
tention paid to every department thereof.

The vast wealth of Lyons, and of various other places, gained
from the labours of this little insect, plainly show that where no
accommodations or materials are wanted, to em.ploy a multitude of
hands in a regular society or combiiialion of undertakers, the silken
manufacture must answer; and that people may grow rich thereby,

2 N

282 iHt: NURSERY. [Marcm.

as well ill America, as in any other country, if similarly pursued, is
too self evident, to be;ir contradiction.

With a view and expectation that this business may be attempted
successfully, I shall contribute my mite, by ^ivinsj the best informa-
tion th it I have been able to acquire on the subject; not in the least
douljtinj^ but that better may be easily obtained, for the introduction
ol this important work.

The first object, is to raise a sufficient quantity of mul1>erry-trees,
of both llie white and black kinds, which are very easily propagated,
as directed in page 265. The cultivating of both kinds 1 think the
more necessary, from the different opinions entertained of their util-
ity for this purpose, and the universal admission of either kind an-
swering the end.

The next is to procure the eggs, which abtjut the beginning of
May, or vvhen the mulberry begins to expand its leaves, ;o lay them
on paper, or flannels placed on shelves- in warm exptjsures, where
they may have the heat of the svni to hatch them. In Sicily, boarded
or frame-houses are commonly erected for this purpose in the fields,
among the mulberry trees; with a number of shelves rising one above
another, and a large table in the middle of the room, on which, when
they are hatched, to lay over them the young twigs bearing the
leaves intended for their food, v. hich must be removed and renewed
as often as necessary; keeping them always clean from dead leaves,
and their own dirt. A man and boy will attend all the worms that
come from six ounces of eggs, and those, one year with another,
will spin twenty pounds weight of silk.

The method of clearing off their dirt is this; spread a net over the
worms, on which Ly fresh food; they will all crawl through the mtshes
to feed on the leaves, when they may be taken up without the least
injury, and their shelves cleaned eflfectuaily: after which lay fresh
twigs with leaves on the shelves; over these lay the nets, and they
Avill return to their former places, when the nets may be laid by till
wanted again for a ^.imilar purpose. In some countries, the worms
are suffered to feed and work upon the trees, but their being subject,
under such circumstances, to the ravages of birds, unfavourable
changes of weather, Sec they are generally kept in houses or sheds
erected for that purpose.

In Turkey, the worms are fed in long barns, made, both walls
and roofs, of reed or cane; where they are fed, and afterwards spin
their clues upon these reeds. In Italy and Spain, they are kept to
feed in the same rooms, wherein the people live and do their other
household affairs, feeding them on shelves and tables without more
curiosity.

It is observed, that the worms are commonly sick three or four
tinies during their feeding, generally about ten days after they are
hatched, and at weekly periods afterwards. Their best treatment, du-
ring these times is, to give them but little food while sick. The
whole lime of their feeding is, about seven weeks; and as they get
strength and grow bigger, ii need hardly be said that you must give
them more, and oftener. The leaves should not be given to the
worms, whilst wet with dew or rain.

March.] THE NURSERY. 283

When they have fed their due time, they hegin to look clear, and
a little of the yellowish cast, and to prepare for work; at every
time, but at this more particularly, lliey should have plenty of air.
Then small branches, divested of their leaves, are laid over ihem
and in their way, upon which (hey mount and attach themselves,
and in a few days each will cover iiself all over with silk, so as to be
seen no more, till suffered to work its way out for the business of
propagation.

In about two weeks they commonly finish their balls, and soon
after cut their way out, and couple for procreation; the balls so
perforated are then good for nothing; but it is necessary to suffer
a sufficient number to come out in this way, to produce a sufficiency
ofeggsforthe next season's brood. The others, when they have
done working, and before they begin to cut through, should be all
put into an oven, just sufficiently hot to kill tlie worms.

The method of winding the silk off the balls, is first to find their
ends, which is not difficult, and then put about a dozen or fifteen
of them into a bason of hot water, wherein is dissolved a little Gum
Tra^acanih., commonly called Gum Drai^on; and thus they will be
easily wound. Sometimes the balls are gummy, in which case
they should be thrown into a ho! clean lye of wood ashes, and after
that into scalding pure water, which will cause them to wind freely.
When the animal is protruded from the egg, it is a small black-
ish worm, very active, and naturally crawls about in search of food;
at this period it should be fed with the youngest and most tender
leaves; in eight or ten days it will increase in size to about a quar-
ter of an inch in length. It is then attacked with its first sickness,
which is a kind of lethargic sleep, for about two or three days con-
tinuance; during which time it changes its skin, preserving the
same bulk. It undergoes similar sickness and changes three or
four times, at intervals of about eight days, before it arrives at its
full size; which is from an inch and quarter to an inch and half in
length; and the intervals between these changes, and consequently
the periods of its arrival at maturity for work, are said to vary in dif-
ferent climates, which is very probable.

After it has formed its cocoon, or ball of silk, and undergone its
change in the heart of it, it comes forth a heavy dull looking moth
with wings, but these it seldom uses for flying; it only flutters and
crawls slowly about, in quest of its mate; soon after copulation the
female lays its eggs, and both die without tasdsig food in this stage
of their existence.

When in the worm or caterpillar state, they are of a blackish,
or a milk or pearl colour: the former are esteemed the best. The
body is divided into seven rings, to each of which are joined tv/o
Very short feet. It has a small point like a thorn exactly over the
anus. There are a considerable variety of bleeds, some of which
possess qualities much superior to others. This is a particular of
TTiuch importance to be adverted to, at the time of beginning to
breed; for it will make a great difference in the profit to the under-
taker. The eggs when obtained should be kept in a cool, dry place,
neither exposed to heat, nor to excessive frosts, till wanted fov
hatching the ensuing season.

284 A'HE NURSERY. [March.

The Morus nigra or black mulberry, is more esteemed for its
fruit than the white, and when cultivated for such, layers or cut-
tings from good fruit-bearing trees, ought to be preferred, to raising
Ihem by seed; for monoecious trees, until arrived at a good age,
hear male flowers chiefly and very few fruit. The cuttings if tak-
en off in March, rightly chosen, and skilfully managed, will do very
well; though, in general, they do not take as ireely in this way as
many other trees; however, if placed under bell-glasses, they will
strike with great certainty: but where there is no such conve-
niency, the ground about them should be covered with moss, to
prevent its drying; and where this is carefully done, they will want
but little water, and will succeed much belter than with having too
much wet.

The Morus rubra or red American mulberry, is admired by
some, on account of the pleasing acidity of its fruit, and is said to
answer the end of feeding silk worms very well. It is cultivated like
every other kind, by layers, cuttings and seed.

The white mulberry prospers best in a moist rich loam, the black,
in a dry sandy soil, and the red in a mean between both these
kinds.

The Paper -Mulberry, and method of making Paper of its Bark,

The Moras fia/iyrifera, or paper mulberry. This tree makes
very strong vigorous shoots, but seems not to be of tall growth: it
drives up an abundance of suckers from the roots, by which it is
easily propagated. The leaves are large, some of them entire,
others cut into two, three or four lobes, sporting themselves into
various forms, and scarcely two to be found alike on the same tree,
especially while young; they are of a dark green, and rough to
the touch on the upper surface, but pale green and somewhat hairy
on the under side, falling off on the first approach of frost in autumn.
Their fruit is little larger than peas, surrounded with long purplish
hairs, when ripe, changing to a black purple colour, and full of
sweet juice.

It is a native of Japan, and the South Sea Islands; and according
to Mr. Miller, of China and South Carolina^ whence he received the
seeds. The inhabitants of Japan, have for ages been in the habit of
making paper from its bark: they cultivate the trees for this pur-
pose, on the mountains, much in the same manner as we do osiers,
cutting them all down for use every autumn after the leaves are
fallen.

The finest and whitest cloth, worn by the principal people at Ota-
heite, and in the Sandwich Islands, is made of the bark of this tree;
which they frequently dye red. The bread fruit tree, makes a cloth
inferior in whiteness and softness, worn there chiefly by the com-
mon people.

Paper making, having a connection in this instance, with objects
of my attention, and the probable use it may be of to the communi-
ty, induces me to give additional publicity to the following method
of manufacturing it from the bark of the paper mulberry-tree: the

March.] THE NURSERY. 285

more especially, as such has been attempted last year, and with good
success, by the laudable exertions of Mr. William Young, pro-
prietor of the Brandywine paper-mills, in the state of Delaware.
It is extracted from Martyn's edition of Miller's Gardener's Dic-
tionary, and quoted by him from Kanifcr. I am not certain what
kind of mulberry Mr. Young had used for that purpose, nor whe-
ther it was the bark of the roots or bi'anches he manufactured, but
some of the paper I had seen printed on, and it promised well. It
it is very probable that either species might be manufactured into
paper, but I am induced to think that the paper-mulberry, from the
vigorous growth of its young shoots, is more likely to answer the
end than any other.

" The young shoots being cut down in autumn after the leaves
are fallen, and divided into rods of three feet in length, or shorter,
are gathered into bundles to be boiled. If the shoots are dry, they
must be softened in water twenty-four hours. The bundles are
bound very close together, and placed erect in a large copper, pro-
perly closed: the boiling is continued till the separation of the bark
displays the naked wood. Then the stalks are loosed out of the
bundles and allowed to cool; after which, by a longitudinal incision,
the baik is stripped off, and dried, the wood being rejected. When
this bark is to be purified, it is put three or four hours in water,
when being sufficiently softened, the ciuicle, which is of a dark co-
lour, together with the greenish surface of the inner bark, is pared
off. At the same time the stronger bark is separated from the
more tender; the former making the whitest and best paper; the
latter a dark, weak and inferior kind If any bark appears that is
old, it is set aside for a thicker paper, of worse quality. Into this
last class they throw the knotty parts of the bark, and those which
have any fault or blemish.

" The bark is now boiled in a lye that is clear and strained; care
being taken to stir the substance as soon as it begins to boil, with a
strong reed, and to pour in of the lye gradually as much as is ne-
cessary for stopping the evaporation, and restoring the liquor that is
lost.

" The boiling is to cease when the materials can be split by a
slight touch of the finger, into fibres and down.

" Next it is to be washed, which is a thing of some moment; for
if washed too short a time, the paper will be strong indeed, but too
rough, and of an inferior quality; if too long, it will be whiter, but
of a fat consistence, and less fit for writing. Being sufficiently
washed, the materials are put upon a thick, smooth, wooden table,
and stoutly beat, by two or three men, with battons of hard wood
into a pulp; which being put in water, separates like grains of meal.
Thus prepared, it is put into a narrow vat; an infusion of
rice, and a mucous water of the infusion of the root of Manihot be-
ing added to it. These three are to be stirred, with a clean slender
reed, till reduced into a homogeneous liquor of a due consistence.
The prepared liquor is now put into a larger vat; from whence the
sheets are poured out, one by one, and placed in heaps upon a table:
covered with a double mat; a small thread of reed being placed

286 THE NURSERY. [March,

between the sheets at the edge, and projecting a little, so that they
may be taken up singly when wanted; the heaps are covered w'l'.h
a plank of wood the size of the paper, upon which stop.es are put,
at first of a light weight, but afterwards heavier, that all the wet
may be pressed out by degrees. The following d.iy, the weights
being removed, each sheet is taken up by itself, and the operation
is finished."

The preceding is the process employed by ihe Japanese, and
whether we regard the fcxj)edition or labour, or the quantity and
quality of the product, it seems to admit of much improveme-nt.

Instead of reducing the subject to n fiu/ft, by battons, in the man-
ner above described, that might be done more effectually by grind-
ing it, in the way practised with rags.

The colour might be lendered as elegantly white, as that of any
other substance, by means of an immersion, firs? in oxygenated mu-
riatic acid, afterwards in a solution of alkali, and finally, washing it
in pure water. By these means it is probable, that the portions
thrown aside for paper of inferior qualities, might be wrought into
that of prime excellence.

The decoction of rice and of the root of Manihot,can have no pos-
sible advantage over the size, commonly used, for giving to the
paper the necessary firmness and texture.

The Calabrian or Manna Jlsh.

There are two particular species of ash, from which that useful
drug called manna is collected in the kingdom of Naples, &c. and
which might be cultivated in the southern states, to advantage;
therefore, I am induced to give some account of them.

1. The Fraxinus 0»vHis, or flowering ash, which is the principal
kind cultivated for manna. The leaflets are ovate-oblong, serrate,
petioled; flowers with petals.

2. The Fraxinus rotundifolia, or round leaved ash, which also
produces it, but not in as great quantities as the former. Leaflets
roundish, acuiish, doubly serrate, suhsessiie; flowers with petals.
Both these kinds may be raised from seeds as directed in page 272
or by grafting or budding them on any other species of ash. They
are natives of Italy, Sicily, and the southern parts of Europe.

They also cultivate in Sicily,. the Fraxinus excelsior or common
European ash, for that purpose; which induces me to think, that if
the above kinds were grafted lonv, on any of our American species,
it would not prevent their yielding as good manna, as if established
on their own roots. Doctor Culien supposes " Manna to be a part
of the sugar so universally present in vegetables, and which exudes
on the surface of a great number of them," 1 he qualities of these
exudations he thinks are " very little, if any, different." The
principal trees known to produce these mannas, in different climates
and seasons, are the larch, orange, walnut, willow, mulberry, and
some different kinds of oak; which latter, are found growing be-
tween Merdin and Diarbecker, and also in Persia near Khounsar.

31ARCH.] THE NURSERY. 287

In Sicily the three species above mentioned, with the view of ob-
taining manna from them, but more particularly the first, are plant-
ed on the declivities of hills, having eastern aspects. Afler ten
years growth, the trees first begm to yield manna, but they require
to be much older, betore Ihey afford it in any considerable quantity.
Although the manna exudes spontaneously from the trunks and
branches, yet in order to obtain it more copiously, incisions are
made thiough the bark, by means of a sharp crooked instrument;
a slice of which, is taken off, about three inches in length and two
in breadth; tliey leave the wounds open, and by degrees the manna
runs out. The season thought to be most favourable for instituting
this process, is a little beiore the dog-days commence, when the
weather is dry and serene. The incisions are first made in the
lower part of the trunk, and repeated, at the distance of an inch or
two from the former wound, still extending them upwards as far as
the branches, and confining them to one side of the tree; the other
side being reserved till the year following, when it undergoes the
same treatment On making these, a thick white juice immediate-
ly begins to flow, which gradually hardens on the bark, and in the
course of eight days, acquires the consistence and appearance, in
which the manna is imported; when, it is collected in baskets, and
afterwards packed in large chests. Sometimes the manna flows in
such abundance from the incisions, that it runs upon the ground, by
which it becomes mixed with various impurities, unless prevented,
which is commonly attempted, by interposing large concave leaves,
stones, chips of wood, &c. The business of collecting it, generally
terminates in those countries in September, when the rainy season
sets in.

That manna is got in quantities on the leaves of trees, is an opi-
nion taken from the doctrine of the ancients, and received as in-
contestible without consulting nature; for all those who are em-
ployed in the gathering of it, know of none that comes from the
leaves; therefore, that with which the Israelites were so peculiarly
favoured, could only have been produced through miraculous means,
and is consequently out of the piovince of the naturalist. The best
manna is what exudes from the tree very slowly, and is collected
clean; this is always more dry, transparent, and pure; for when
it flows copiously it concretes into a coarse, brown, unctuous mass.

Methods of propagating Trees and Shrubs by Layers.

There are few trees or shrubs, if any, but may be increased in
this way. The nursery gardeners who want to propagate large
quantities of various hardy kinds, of which they cannot easily pro-
cure seeds, and which by experience they do not find to grow free-
ly by cuttings; establish, what they call, stools, of the diff'erent kinds
intended to be propagated, particularly of the deciduous tribe, and
also, some evergreens. For this purpose, they plant in diff'erent
quarters, stout healthy plants, at the distance of four or five feet
Irom one another every way, and head them down; these throw
out near the earth a number of young shoots, some of which may

2S8 THE NURSERY. [March.

be laid in the autumn or spring following; these stools, us they
are commonly called, continue for many years, always laying down
the shoots of the last season, and every year successively they pro-
duce abundance for the ensuing year's laying, still taking them ofV,
either in autumn or spring as they become well rooted. The elm,
linden, mulberry, and maple, do extremely well in this way, but it
is seldom practised on any of the pine family. The far greater
number of kinds will be well rooted and fit to take off in one year
after laying, some not till the second, and others not until the third
year; but the latter are very few.

The ground in these quarters should always be kept free from
weeds, be manured occasionally, and dug every autumn and spring,
being careful not to disturb the layers.

After the layers are taken up, the stools must have all the wound-
ed parts taken away, and any old branches cut off, pretty close to the
stems: the next season these will produce new shoots, which may
be laid the autumn or spring following.

The best season for laying all the kinds that do not root freely, is
aiutumn, and the young shoots of the preceding summer's growth,
should be preferred; these should be tongued as herealter di-
rected. The free rooting kinds may be laid either in autumn or
spring, as convenient.

Though branches may be laid at any time, yet the best season for
laying hardy trees, that shed their leaves, is October or November;
for such as are tender early in March; evergreens may either be
laid at the latter period or in June or July.

When the branches or twigs cannot be bent down into the ground
lay them in boxes or pots, filled with good earth and elevated to the
necessary places by blocks, tressels, or benches. Too much of the
head of the layers must not be left on, and the smaller, the less
should be left out of the ground, except they are twigs of the for-
mer years growth, and intended for timber trees, in which case
they should not be topped.

Many trees and plants will not put out roots from old wood-
branches; yet if the young shoots of the same year be laid in July,
they will often root very freely: but as those shoots will be soft
and pithy, they must not have too much wet, which would cause
them to rot; cover, therefore, the surface of the ground with moss,
which will prevent its drying too fast, and a little water will suffice.

In many kinds of the young shoots of the same year, if laid in
June or July, they will be well rooted by the November or spring
following, and may then be taken off.

When layers are to be made from green-house shrubs, or other
plants in pots, the laying should be generally performed, either in
their own pots, or in others placed convenient for that purpose.

Sometimes the branches of trees are so inflexible as not to be
easily brought down for laying; in which case they must be half
cut through, as practised in plashing hedges, and by that means
brought down; or when they are got too old for plashing, or that
the nature of the wood will not bear that operation, they may be
thrown down on one side, by opening the earth and loosening or
cutting the roots on the opposite.

March.] THE NURSERy. 289

There are several methods of performing this operation.

1. Having well dug the ground and made it very light, take some
of the most flexible and free growing shoots, and lay them into it,
about six inches deep, pegging them down with hooked sticks, if ne-
cessary, leaving the end of the layer, a foot or a foot and a hall, or
more if the twig be young and healthy, out of the ground, with its
head as erect as possible; keep them moist during the summer sea-
son, and if of a free rooting kind, they will take root and be fit to be
taken off" and removed, in the autumn or spring following; if not,
they must remain another season.

2. Tie a piece of wire tight round the bark of the layer, at the
place you intend to lay in the ground, and half an inch below a bud;
twist the ends of the wire, so that they may not untie, as the shoot
swells, prick the parts above and below the wire with an awl in se-
veral places, and tiien lay it in the ground as before directed. This
method will succeed when the other fails.

3. Slit the shoot underneath a joint or bud, up the middle, and
about an inch long, or a little belter, according to the size and na-
ture of the layer, forming a sort of tongue, nearly the same as di-
rected for carnation layers; laying that part in the earth and raising
the top upright, so as thereby to separate the tongue of the slit from,
the other part and keep it open; then apply the earth as before. This
is the most universally practised and successful mode, when any
preparation of the shoot is necessary to promote its rooting.

4. Twist the part of the branch intended to be layed in the earth,
as you would a willow twig; this greatly facilitates the emission of
fibres; and layers of numerous trees and shrubs, may be forwarded
exceedingly in rooting by this method.

5. Cut the bark nearly all around, a little below a joint or bud,
taking out small chips thereof in several places below the cut, and
lay that part in the earth. Some sorts will root more freely by
this, than any other mode.

6. Thrust an awl through a shoot at a joint in several plaoes,
laying that part in the earth, and it will emit fibres from the wounds.

After laying, in either of the above methods, there is no particu-
lar culture necessary, except in the heat of summer to give occa-
sional waterings, to keep the earth moist about the layers, which
will greatly promote their rooting; and which if effected the first
season, they should be taken off in the autumn or spring following.

Additional Observations on Planting.

Plants are always most prosperous when propagated by seed,
which is nature's favourite method.

Evergreen plants are best fit for transplanting from the seed-
beds into nursery rows, when they have attained the height of, from
four to six inches, and deciduous kinds, when from six to twelve
inches high.

Layers should not be suff'ered to remain on the mother plants,
longer than until sufficiently rooted; which will be effected by

2Q

290 THE NURSERY. [March.

some, in six or seven months, if laid in spring; by the far greater
number in one year, and by others, not in less than two or three.

Tonguing, or twisting the layers, Sec. is necessary for such kinds
as do not strike freely; but not for those that do.

All kinds of seedlings, sheuld be transplanted in spring, the deci-
duous earlier than the evergreens,

October or November, is the best time for ihejiyial transplanting
of all kinds of hardy deciduous trees, if the ground in which they
are to be planted is dry, and not subject to become too wet in win-
ter; but early spring planting does best, in moist soils.

Evergreens of every kind succt*r-! best when planted in spring,
provided it be done to each resp.-^ci've kind, iminediately before its
vegetation commences.

Watering is very useful when given in small quantities, and fre-
quently; but the reverse, when in large quantities, and but sel-
dom.

Every kind of- tree, whether deciduous or evergreen, grows to a
larger size when finally planted out at the age of four years, having
remaiised one or two in the seed-bed, and two or three in the nur-
sery-rows, than at any other subsequent period.

Walnuts, oaks, and eve»y other tree, that has a tendency to drive
down perpendicular or to tap-roots, always grow to larger timber,
when the seeds are sown where intended to remain, and never
transplanted.

Propagation of Trees and Shrubs by Cuttings.

Various trees and shrubs may be propagated by cuttings, and this
month, especially in the middle states, is a good time for planting
all the hardy deciduous and evergreen kinds, that grow in that way;
observing to plant the former in the early part of the month, and
the latter towards the end of it.

When you intend to propagate trees for timber, or for a tall
stately growth, be very particular never to take the cuttings from
horizontal branches, for they will never have an inclination to grow
in a spreading manner; always make choice of perpendicular
shoots, and particularly, those that terminate the branches; these
will most certainly produce the straightest and handsomest trees,
and be little interior to those raised from seed; of this I have had
ample experience, and found it uniformly to be the case.

But when you intend the plants for hedges, wildernesses, or
thickets, -the same precaution is not necessary; though in propa-
gating any kinds of erect growing shrubs for detached plants in
the pleasure garden, I would recommend it, as they will be less
subject to spread, and injure other herbaceous flowering plants
growing near them.

Large shoots cut into lengths, are often used, and will do tolera-
bly well, provided they are selected as above; but I would ever pre-
fer what gardeners term cock-shoots, or, those retaining the termi-
nating buds. The soft and pithy sorts will succeed better, wilh
having an inch or two of the former year's wood annexed to the

March.] THE NURSERY. 291

cuttings, but all the hard wooded kinds, are much better with-
out it.

For this purpose, dig one or more beds, or shady borders, &c.
where the ground is somewhat mellow, and not wet; let the earth
be well broken with the spade, and rake the surface smooth.

Take off the cuttings, with your knife, from the trees or shrubs
that you w-inl to increase; let them be of the last summer's shoots,
cutting them off from about six or eight to ten or fifteen inches
long, according as tliey may occur in the different sorts of trees,
&c.; plant them in rows, each cutting about half or two thirds of
its length, into the ground; close she earth well about them, and in
dry weather let them be occasionaily watered.

The Tacamahaca, whire, black, trembling; Lombardy, Canada,
Athenian, Carolina, heart-Jeaved, smooth-leaved, and various leaved
poplars, and all the varieties of willow, may be propagated in this
way; also, the Plane-tree, Tupelo-tree, Mulberry, and Alder; with
the Sea-Buckthorn, Lkicr, Tamarisk, some kinds of Solanum, Honey-
suckles, Diervilia, Privet, Trumpet-flower, Virgins-bower, Caroli-
na Kidney-bean tree. Passion-flower, Jasmine, Periploca, Yew, Ju-
niper, Savin, Arbor-Vitae, Portugal and English Laurels, and an im-
mense number of other trees and shrubs.

Cuttings of all sorts planted a year ago, and that are well rooted,
may now be transplanted, or quartered out into open nursery rows,
to advance in proper growth, and to have occasional training for the
purposes intended.

Grafting Forest-Trees and Ornamental Shrubs.

The latter end of this month, will be a good time to graft the va-
rious kinds of forest trees, flowering and ornamental shrubs, which
you mean to propagate in that way; such as Elms, Ash, Oaks,
Hollies of various kinds, Robinias, double flowering thorns, Altheaa
and Cherries, &c. There are very few hard wooded plants but will
take in this way, when grafted on stocks of their own families, and
indeed there are many instances of plants taking on stocks of a dif-
ferent genus, as the pear on the white-thorn, the peach on the
plum, Sec. &c.

Transplanting young Trees and Shrubs.

All hardy kinds of deciduous trees and shrubs, may now be trans-
planted, either into nursery rows, or finally where intended to re-
main; always observing to do this in mild weather, and when the
ground works freely and is in a good condition to receive them. In
the middle, and particularly in the eastern states, the removal of
evergreens should not be commenced before the beginning of
April, and then finished towards the middle of that month, if the
season proves favourable. Hollies are best removed towards the end
of April.

292 '^H^ NURSERY. [March.

Weeding Seedling-Trees and Shrubs.

Look over the seed-beds of young trees and shrubs: if weeds
appear on them, let them be carefully picked out by hand in lime,
before they mix their roots with those of the plants.

Watering Seedling-Trees, Sfc.

In dry warm weather it will be proper to refresh the seed-beds of
small young trees and shnibs with water now and then: a little at
each time will do; let this be done early in the morning.

Digging vacant Ground, Sfc.

All requisite digging and trenching of vacant quarters of ground
in the nursery, designed for plantations of young trees, shrubs, &c.
this spring, should now be completed, as soon as possible, in due
time for the reception of the respective plants intended; which, in
the deciduous kinds particularly, should be mostly or generally
finished by the middle or latter end of this month: and the ever-
greens soon after that time. See .^firil.

Finish all digging between the rows of young trees, 8cc. in this
month if possible; and also in all parts where planting is intended
this spring, provided that the ground will work freely.

Propagating Gooseberries and Currants.

The only proper method of propagating gooseberries, and cur-
rants, is by cuttings; suckers should never be resorted to, except
in cases of necessity, for such, will always produce others, nume-
rously from their roots, which carry off the nourishment that
ought to go to the support of the fruit; and besides, they form such
thickets as to smother, and deprive them of the benefit of a free
circulating air.

The proper cuttings for planting, are the shoots of the last sum-
mer's production, of straight clean growth; they should be taken
from healthy trees, and such as are remarkable, according to their
kinds, for bearing the finest fruit: let each be shortened from about
ten to twelve, or fifteen to eighteen inches long, according to its
strength.

Previous to planting, cut off every bud as close as possible to the
shoot, except three, four, or five, near the top; which are to be left,
to form the head of the plant. Some people imagine, that the buds
on those parts inserted in the earth, grow into roots, which is by
no means the case, nature never having designed them for such;
the roots or fibres, always strike out through the clean and smooth
bark, but generally, a little below a bud, and sometimes at the lower
extremity of the cutting, from between the bark and the wood. In

March.] THE FLOWER-GARDEN. 29S

some kinds these buds decay and die away, but in gooseberries and
currants they always rise in suckers, and Irom these others innu-
merably; which always rob the fruit, and often render, even the best
kinds not worih their room in the garden.

Your cuttings being thus prepared, plant them in rows eighteen
inches or two feet asunder, and about eight or nine inches apart in
the rows, always inserting them at least six inches into the earth,
and if the shoots are sufficiently long, eight or nine; leaving from
four to ten inches according to circumstances, of a clean stem, be-
tween the surface earth, and lowest left bud, upon which to estab-
lish the head. Having had one or two years growth in these rows,
they may be planted out, either in autumn, or early in spring,
where intended for fruiting; but, autumn is the most preferable
season.

Gooseberries, of all other fruit-trees, require the richest soil.
The situation should neither be too high, or too low, nor the soil
much inclined to gravel or sand, a deep rich loam is their fa-
vourite. Where this fruit is expected in the best perfection, the
ground between and about the trees, must be kept free from weeds,
and dug every spring and autumn, and strongly manured once a
year with old well rotted cow-dung: they must be judiciously prun-
ed, and each tree kept to a single stem, without any suckers;
which must be dug up, or stripped off; whenever such appear. But
all the culture on earth, will not produce good fruit unless you
have good kinds; for there are crab gooseberries, as well as crab
apples, and as great a variety of the one kind of fruit as of the
other.

THE PLEASURE, OR FLOWER-GARDEN.

Hyacinths.

TFIE choice kinds of Hyacinths, should now be protected from
severe frost, for if permitted to penetrate so far into the soil, as to
reach the bulbs, especially about the time that the plants begin to
appear above ground, it will produce a singular effect, by causing
some of thenti to shoot forth or discharge their stems or blossoms;
but if at this time the roots become entirely frozen they are in dan-
ger of being destroyed, or at least so weakened as to produce but
indifferent flowers.

294 'i'^E PLEASURE, OR [March.

Tulips.

When your choice tulips appear above ground) if on examina-
tion any distemper, or canker, is discernible on the foliage, about
this time, either above or a little below the surface of the soil,
it should be carefully cut out, with a sharp knife, and the wound-
ed part left exposed to the sun and air, which will presently heal
it: a fine dry day should be made choice of for the foregoing
operation.

If the surface of the beds appear to be of too close and solid a
texture, it should be carefully stirred up, about two inches deep,
•which will admit the air more freely to the stems, give vent to their
exudations and encourage their growth.

Should the weather prove extremely severe, a slight covering of
mats, placed on arched hoops over the beds, will be very serviceable
to them. But this care or attention, is not necessary for the common
kinds, growing promiscuously in the borders. See.

Ranunculuses and Jlmmones.

Continue to protect your choice kinds of early planted Ranuncu-
luses and Anemones as directed in page 161, they will now require
particular attention, as the rudiments of their flowers will be ad-
vancing, which would suffer greatly, if too much exposed to nipping
frosts.

Finish planting the Ranunculuses and Anemones that are yet
kept out of ground for a successional bloom; which is to be done
agreeably to the directions given in October.

Ranunculus roots will remain in the ground several days after
planting, before they begin to vegetate; during this period, they
become very much swelled, by imbibing the moisture of the soil,
and are in this state, extremely susceptible of injury from frost,
much more so, than when vegetation has actually taken place.

As soon as the bed is planted, if hard frosts are likely to ensue, a
sufficient quantity of dry straw should be placed near it, ready for
covering, when necessity requires; which should be kept on, only
during severe frosts, or such as would be likely to penetrate to the
roots; as the effects of covering too long or too, much, would be as
destructive as the reverse, by causing the roots to become mouldy,
than which nothing can be more prejudicial.

Anemones are somewhat hardier than Ranunculuses, and there-
fore do not require so particular care, but if such is afforded them,
it will cause them to blow in greater perfection.

Planting Bulbs, of various kinds.

As early in this month as possible, finish planting all your hardy
kinds of bulbous roots, such as Hyacinths, Tulips, Polyanthus-Nar-
cissus, Jonquils, Star of Bethlehem, Sec. &c.; as they must be con-

March.] FLOWER-GARDEN. 295

siderably weakened by being kept too long unplanted, observe the
directions given in pages 82 and 83, under the article Tulips.

Auriculas.

The first favourable weather that occurs in this month, divest
the auricula plants of their exterior decayed leaves, and by the
middle of the month, the operation of earthing up, as it is termed,
should commence; that is to say, the surface earth of the pot
should he taken away, about one inch deep, and fresh compost, with
the addition of a little loam, should be bubslituted in its stead; this
will contribute greatly to the strength of the plants, and the vigour
of their bloom; at the same time, it will afford a favourable oppor-
tunity to separate such offsets as shall appear possessed of a suf-
ficiency of fibres to be taken oflF at this early season: these offsets
when properly planted in small pots, should be placed in a frame,
in some warm sheltered situation, till their roots are established.

The fine auriculas should now be protected from very severe
frost, cold cutting winds, or excessive rains, for these would injure
them and prevent their blowing in good perfection, but they must
have plenty of air in mild weather, and not be debarred from warm
moderate showers of rain, which will now prove beneficial.

When the weather proves very dry, let them be refreshed mo-
derately with water, just to keep the earth a little moist about their
roots, but too much would materially injure them. For their further
treatment see next month, 8cc.

Sowing Auricula and Fohjanthus Seeds.

If you have neglected last month, to sow auricula and polyanthus
seeds, to raise new varieties, sow them as early as possible in
this, agreeably to the directions given in page 160.

Carnations.

Being provided with some of the finest and most valuable carna-
tions, for with the common sorts it will not be worth while to take
much pains; you should proceed to the potting of them between
the middle and latter end of this month.

The proper compost for those flov.'ers, is as follows, viz.

One half fresh, sound, loamy earth, taken from the surface of a
rich pasture ground, turf and all, and not more than four or five
inches deep.

One third, or a little more, of old horse-dung, such as had been
a year previously used for hot-beds.

One sixth coarse sea, or river sand.

These ingredients ought to have been mixed together in autumn,
laid in a heap about two feet thick, in an open exposure, and turned
three or four times during winter; so as that all the parts may be
well incorporated and have the benefit of the frosts: early in March
it should be gathered into a round conical heap, to drain and be-

296 THE PLEASURE, OR [March.

come dry, and when sufficiently so, and wanted for use, pass it
through a coarse screen or sieve, to reduce its parts, and take out
stones, or any other extraneous substance which it contains.

The pots made use of for spring potting, should be ten inches wide
at the top, five inches at the bottom, and eight inches deep in the
side, with a hole in the centre of the bottom, an inch in diameter.

The pots are first to be near half filled with compost, previously
placing an oyster-shell or such like, with its hollow side down-
wards, over the hole in the bottom of each: the compost is to be
higher at the sides than at the centre of the pots, and the plants
intended for them, which are supposed to have been wintered in
small pots, containing three plants each, are to be carefully turned
out with the earth adhering to them in a ball; and after rubbing off
half an inch of the surface of the old mould round the plants, above
their fibres, cleaning thern and cutting off the points of their de-
cayed leaves, the ball is to be carefully placed in the centre of the
pot, and the space between it and the sides filled up with the pre-
pared compost.

If your plants have been vvintcred one plant in each pot only, a
size much smaller than the above, will be sufficient to shift them
into, but when three plants grow and flower together in a large
pot, they appear to more advantage.

This being done, give the plants a little water, and observe that
the earth comes no higher up their stems than it did in the former
pots, nor should the compost come nearer than within an inch of
the top of the rim, after it has been gently shaken or struck against
the ground in finishing; as an inconvenience will attend its being
too full, when the operation of laying comes to be performed, which
requires some additional mould on the surface, for the layers to
strike into.

When the plants are thus potted off for bloom, they should be
placed in an open airy part of the garden under an arch of hoops,
that in case of cold drying winds, heavy rains, or cold frosty nights,
mats may be thrown over, to preserve them from the effects of
such unfavourable weather. In this situation they are to remain,
always open to the air, except in the cases above mentioned, and
be kept regularly watered with soft water, as often as appears ne-
cessary, from a fine rosed watering-pot. For their further treat-
ment see next month, May, ijfc

The plants which were planted in large pots last autumn, where
they are to remain to flower, should now have the old mould taken
out, as near to their roots as possible, without disturbing them, and
replaced with fresh compost; after which, treat them as above.

The common carnations in beds, borders, SiC. may be removed
towards the latter end of this month, and planted where desired.

Pinks.

The culture of pinks is much less difficult than that of carna-
tions: they are hardier, more easily prop^igated, increase more
abundantly, and are less liable to incidental casualties than the latter.

March.] FLOWER-GARDEN, 297

A good fresh loamy soil, dug and well pulverized, about twelve
or eighteen inches deep, and well manured and mixed Avith cow-
dung, two years old, is all the preparaiion that is necessary lor this
charming flower.

The plants designed for the principal bloom, should be planted
where intended to blow, in September, or early in October, as they
do not flower quite so well if removed later in the season; they
should be planted at about the distance of nine inches from each
other, and the bed should be laid rather convex, or rounding, to
throw off excess of rain; but will require only a slight covering or
protection in case of frost; and this only for the superior kinds.

The beds should be kept free from weeds, and the surface stirred
up a little if it inclines to bind.

They may also be propagated now, freely, by slips from their
roots, or removed if necessary. If desired to have them in pots, you
may pot a few of the finest kinds, as directed for carnations.

Polyanthuses.

Your finest kinds of polyanthuses and double primroses, may be
treated in every respect as directed for Auriculas, if desired in
pots; if not, they may be removed at pleasure, between the middle
and latter end of this month, and large roots divided for increase;
but this should not be done to those which you intend to flower
strongly, till their bloom is over, immediately after which, you
may slip them or divide their roots. They are impatient of heat
and drought, and love the reverse, shade and moisture; they are
very hardy, and seldom perish except by the summer heats, which
frequently destroy them, unless the necessary precautions are
taken.

Double Daisies.

These beautiful little flowering plants may, about the end of
this month, be taken from the winter repositories, and planted for
edgings, in shady borders; for, if planted in open exposures, the
summer heat will totally destroy them, unless they are removed
into the shade, as soon as their first bloom is over. The roots may
now be separated for increase, as every shoot of them, if slz/ifiedoWi
will root freely. They may also be removed into pots with balls
of earth adhering to their roots, where they will blow handsomely,
but it would have been better if they were planted in these, in Sep-
tember, or October.

Giving fresh Earth to various Plants in Pots.

Give some fresh earth to the pots of double wall-flowers, double
stock July -flowers, double sweet-williams, rockets, rose-campions,
catchfly, campanulas, scarlet lychnis, and such like plants, which
were potted last autumn, or before.

2 P

298 THE PLEASURE, OR [March.

In doing this, clear the plants first from decayed leaves, and
take some of the earth out of the top of the pots, but not too deep,
to disturb the roots of the plants; then fill up the pots agj/in with
fresh earth, and give some water; this will streiigtiien their roots,
and the plants will shoot freely, and produce large flowers.

Pricking out early Annuals.

If any tender annuals were sown lust month, such as cockscombs,
tricolours, Ipomceas, sensitive plants, ice plains, balsams, Sec in or-
der to have them in perfection at an earlier period than common,
make a new hot-bed towards the middle or latter end of this, in
which to prick them, to forward their growth. Let the hot-bed be
about thirty inches hic»-h, ar.d make the top even; then set on the
frame; and when the great heat t-j over, let the earili be put in;
let it be light, rich, and perfectly dry, and lay it equally over the
bed six inchi-s thick; when vvarm, prick the plants therein at three
or four inches distance ?ach way, or some Uiay also be pricked in
small pots, one good uli^Tit in each, and phjngcd in the earth of the
bed; giving the whoie a little sprinknog ol water; then let the
glasses be put on, observing to raise them behind a little every day,
to admit air and let out the steam; shade the plants from the sun
till they have taken fresh root.

When they are rooted and begin to push, they should have fresh
air every day; therefore let the upper ends of the glasses be raised
an inch, two, or three in height, to admit it; but shut them down
towards the evening, and cover them every night with mats; re-
member to sprinkle them with water occasionally, giving but a lit-
tle at each time.

Keep up the heat of the bed by occasionally lining with hot dung.
Thus these tender annuals are to be continued forwarding in growth
till May; then, when the frost is totally gone, finally transplanted
into large pots, flower borders, &c.

Sowing Under Annuah.

A hot-bed may be made the beginning or any time this month,
in which to sow the seeds of tender annual flowers, such as ice
plant, sensitive plant, Browallia's, Sec.

Make the bed, and sow the seeds, as directed in last month. Or a
few ])lants may be raised in pots in any cucumber or m.elon hot-bed
now in cultivation, to a proper size for transplanting. See Afiril.

The plants raised from the above sowings will blow strong and
beautiful in May, June, July, &c.

Remember they are not to remain in the hot-bed where raised,
but are to be transplanted, some into pots, and some into the bor-
ders. See Atiril and May.

Sowing hardy Annual Flowers.

Any time this month, that the ground is in good condition, you
may sow in the borders and other flower compartments, a variety of

March.] FLOWER-GARDEN. 299

hardy annuals, such as large and dwarf annual sunflowers, sweet
pea of every kind, larkspur, flos-adonis, persicatia, Tangier peas,
Nigilla, Venus's looking-glass, Venus's navelwort, double dwarf
poppy, Lobel's catchfly, dwarf-lychnis, snails, horns, hedgehogs,
Caterpillars, mignonette, china-aster, horse-shoes, belvidere, candy-
tufi, honey-wort, convolvnlus-rainor, cyanus. china-hollyhock lava-
tera, curled mallow, winged pea, china pink, ten weeks stock, and
many other sorts, which will flower better if sown early, than if
delayed to a late period; though every of the above will succeed
very well if sown in the beginning of next month.

These should be sown, each kind separate, in patches in the dif-
ferent borders and flower-beds, &c. finally to remain where sown;
or, a few, when grown to a sufficient size, may be carefully trans-
planted into such borders and places as you desire. For the me-
thod of sowing them, see page 159.

Sowing various kijids of fibrous -rooted perennial ayid biennial
Plants.

Perennial and biennal flower-seeds, of most kinds, may be sown
in the middle and southern states, towards the latter end of the
month; in the eastern states, the middle or latter end of April will
be preferable.

It is to be observed, that these kinds do not flower the same year
they are sown; but all the sorts of them will flower strong, and in
good perfection the year after.

As every one may not know the meaning of perennial and bien-
nial plants; the perennials are those which continue on the same
roots many years, producing new flower stems annually, such as
everlasting sun flower, scarlet lychnis, perennial asters, &c. The
biennials are only of two years* duration, being sown one year,
flower and perfect their seeds the next, and soon after die, or be-
come of a dwindling growth, such as honesty, tree-primrose, tree-
mallow Sec.

Many kinds are proper to be sown now, such as carnations, pinks,
sweet-williams, wall-flowers, and stock July-flowers of all sorts;
also rose-campion, scarlet lychnis, columbines, Greek valerian, po-
lyanthus, auriculas, scabiouses, and Canterbury bells.

The seeds of hollyhocks, French honeysuckles, rockets, honesty,
or satin-flower, tree-primrose, broad-leaved campanula, and fox-
gloves; snap-dragon, bee-larkspur, with seeds of most other sorts
of perennial and biennial plants, may now be sown.

All the above, and other hardy perennial and biennial flower-
seeds, are to be sown in beds of light earth in the open ground.

For the method of sowing them, see the /^/o7y<?r-Gcrcfen for next
month.

300 'A'H?^ PLEASURE, OR [March.

Big the Borders, Sfc.

Dig the borders and flower compartmentsj 8cc. and rake them
smooth: they will then be ready to receive the seeds of annual flow-
ers, and plants of other kinds; besides, they will appear fresh and
neat.

Transplanting perennial Plants.

Where there are vacancies in any of the beds, borders, or other
parts of the garden they may now be filled up with many different
kinds of perennial and biennal flower plants, and will all blow the
same year.

Many principal sorts may now be planted, such as lychnises, rose
campions, rockets, catch-fly, campanulas, carnations, pinks, and
sweet-williams, double feverfew, golden-rod, perennial sun-flowers,
perennial asters, and French honeysuckles; also columbines, Can-
terbury-bells, monk's-hood, fox-gloves, tree-primroses, scabiouses,
snap-dragon. Lobelias Irises, bee-larkspur, double ragged robin, va-
lerian, and most others of the like sorts.

Plant also dwarf fibrous-rooted flowers in the borders, &c. they
will take root freely in a short time; such as polyanthuses, double
chamomile, London-pride, violets, hepaticas, thrift, primroses,
saxifrage, gentianella, lily of the valley, &c.

In planting the intended different kinds, dispose them variedly,
the larger growing sorts more or less back; and the smaller forward
towards the front and middle.

Give water at first planting, and afterwards occasionally in dry
weather, till the plants are fresh rooted; by which, they will grow
freely, and all flower the same year in their proper seasons.

IToe and rake the Borders.

Loosen with a hoe or small spade, the surface of those beds or
borders, which were dug and planted with flowers of any kinds last
autumn, or any time since.

Let this be done in a dry day, hoeing, or lightly digging and stir-
ring the earth carefully between the plants, taking care of the shoots
of bulbous roots. See. which are now just peeping through the
surface; clearing away all decayed leaves of the plants, weeds, and
every sort of rubbish, and then let the beds or borders be neatly
raked even and smooth.

By thus loosening the surface of the borders, the first growth of
seed-weeds will be retarded, it will greatly promote the strength of
the flowers, and the whole will appear clean and agreeable.

Pruning Shrubs, and digging the Clumps in the Shrubberry.

Finish pruning all sorts of flowering shrubs and evergreens which
require it, observing the directions of the two former months.

March.] FL0WER-»ARDEN. 301

Dig the ground in the clumps or borders if not done in the for-
mer month, which will prove beneficial; the ground being turned up
fresh, will appear neat, and the plants will show themselves more

agreeably.

Planting deciduous Flowering Shrubs, ornavnental and Forest-Trees.

Where deciduous flowering shrubs, or trees, are wanted in any of
the pleasure-grounds, they may now be planted with good success,
such as common and Persian lilacs, snow-drop tree, fringe-tree,
bladder nut, rose-acacia, bladdei'-senna, angelica-tree. Azalea, ho-
neysuckles, Calycanthus, New-Jersey tea, Judas-tree, clethra, papaw,
leather-wood, fern-leaved Comptonia, Amorpha, dog-wood, double
flowering thorns, cherries and peaches, snowy-medlar, Euonymus
in sorts, Fothergilla, althea-frutex, Franklinia, Guilandinia, Sassa«
fras, swamp magnolia, Benjamin-tree, witch-hazel, St. Peter's-wort,
Diervilla, roses, and all kinds of hardy deciduous shrubs; atid also,
the tulip-tree, lime-tree, poplars of every kind, catalpa, chesnuts of
every sort, sour and sweet-gum, elms, maples, walnuts, hickories,
plane-tree, horn-beam, beech, nettle-trees, ash, honey-locust, oaks,
poplars, Sec &c.

In planting trees for timber, allow them the proper distances for
the purposes intended: if for close plantations, or by way of cop-
pices or underwood for gradual thinning and falling for poles and
other small purposes, every seven, eight, or ten years; you may plant
them in close rows, only four, five, or six feet distance; and whea
they have attained growths, proper for the first thinning, select the
handsomest plants at regular distances to stand for timber, and thin
the rest; but when designed to have the whole to stand for a full
plantation of large standards before they are thinned, plant them at
from ten to fifteen or twenty feet distance.

Directions for planting all sorts of Trees and Shrubs.

All flowering and ever-green shrubs, ornamental trees, &c. de-
signed for the shrubbery, and other plantations, should be planted at
such distances, that they may not crowd each other as they grow
up; for they always show themselves best when they stand separate
at moderate distances. Shrubs of all kinds, designed for detached
clumps particularly, should be planted not less than three, to four
or five feet asunder; that the different kinds, according to their
growths, may generally remain distinct; but whereathickety growth
is required in particular compartments, a closer plantation may be
formed of diiferent common shrubs.

Let all the tree kinds be allowed proper room, proportionate to
their respective growths, and according as they are designed for
open or close plantations, or clumps, groves, avenues, or thick-
ets, Sec.

In planting shrubs and trees of every kind, let all convenient ex-
pedition be made in doing it, so that they may be planted as soon
as possible after they are taken up, or brought from the nursery,
or elsewhere; that their roots may not be" dried by the sun and

302 THE PLEASURE, OR [March.

wind; but when brought from any distance, and that they cannot be
immediately planted, untie the bundles, lay the roots in a trench,
and cover them with earth, to lie, till the places allotted are ready
to receive them.

In preparing for planting, dig a round aperture for each shrub,
or tree, from half a yard to two or more feet wide, according to
the size of the roots, and a spade deep, capacious enough to receive
them freely; and loosen the bottom well. Then having the shrubs,
&c. ready, prune off broken or bruised roots, and any irregular
productions, of the heads; and place them in the holes upright,
break the earth well, and throw it in equally about the roots, which
cover a proper depth, shaking each plant gently as the earth is filled
in, to cause it to settle close between all the roots and fibres; tread
it moderately, to fix the plant firmly in an upright position, making
the top of the earth a little hollow, round each, to hold water when
given in dry weather; and if they are watered as soon as planted,
it will settle the earth about all the roots more effectually, and pro-
mote their fresh rooting: it would be of advantage in general, but
more particularly to any of the more tender or curious shrubs, &c.
to lay some long litter on the surface, to preserve the moisture about
the roots in dry weather.

Immediately after planting, fix stakes to such tall plants as re-
quire support, and let them be fastened thereto.

Planting Evergreens.

Evergreen trees and shrubs, may be planted with good success,
any time this month, in most of the southern states, but in the mid-
dle states, that should not be attempted before the last week therein,
nor in the eastern states before the beginning or middle of April:
these kinds are always most successfully planted, when done imme-
diately before their respective vegetations commence; which is a
rule that ought to be carefully observed. See the JVumery and Plea'
sure-Garden for next month.

Planting Roses.

You may plant roses any time this month, that the weather will
permit; and indeed there is a particular advantage in planting
soroe every ten days, even to the middle of May; for the flowering
of them may be retarded in this way, and the bloom of those de-
lightful shrubs continued for a much longer period, than if all were
planted at the same time; but such as are planted after the twentieth
of April, should the season prove dry, will require shade and water
until they have taken fresh root. The early planting however, will
be the most successful in growth, and flower in greater perfection
than the others.

Planting Box Edgings.

Box, of all other plants, makes the neatest and most beautiful
edgings, and this is a very successful time to plant it, particu-

March.] THE FT.OWER-GARDEN. 303

larly in the middle states; in the other states, it should be planted
on the spur of the earliest spring vegetation; for although it is an
evergreen,its taking and growing freely by slips or cuttings, causes
it to agree with early planting better than those kinds that do not
easily propagate in that way; and moreover it is very hardy, and sel-
dom injured by winter frosts.

To make neat edgings, you should get some short bushy box, and
let it be slipped or parted into moderately small slips, of not more
than from eight to ten inches long; if any of them have roots or
fibres, the better, but the cuttings or slips will all grow if planted
early, and kept moderately and occasionally watered. The long
woody roots of such as have them must be trimmed, and all the
plants, slips, or cuttings, made pretty much of a length.

The method of planting is this: stretch your line, if for a straight
edging, along the edge of the bed or border, let that part be trodden
lightly and evenly along, to settle it moderately firm, and with the
spade make it up full and even, according to the line; then on the
side of the line next the walk, let a small neat trench be cut out
about six inches deep, making the side next the line perfectly up°
right, turning the earth out towards the walk or alley.

The box is to be planted in this trench close against the upright
side next the line, placing the plants so near together as to form
immediately a close compact edging, without being too thick and
clumsy, and with the top of the plants as even as possible, all an
equal height, not more than an inch or two above the surface of the
ground; and as you proceed in planting, draw the earth up to the
outside of the plants, which fixes them in their due position; and
when you have planted the row out, then with your spade cast in the
earth almost to the top of the plants, and tread it neatly and closely
thereto: when the edging is planted, let any inequalities of the top
be cut as even and neat ae possible, with a pair of shears.

Where there are any gaps in the former planted edgings, let
them now be made good; for when ragged and uneven they have a
disagreeable appearance.

Or where any old edgings of several years standing have been per-
mitted to run up rude and spreading, nothing in a garden looks
more unsightly; and should be taken up, slipped, trimmed, and re-
planted in a neat regular order.

For an account of the various plants generally used for edgings
and the methods of planting them, see the Flonoer-Garden next
month. They may all be planted towards the latter end of this, if
the weather proves favourable.

Plant Hedges.

Finish planting all the kinds of deciduous hedges, as early in the
month as the weather permits, and if the season proves very favour-
able, you may in the last week thereof, plant evergreen hedges. For
the methods of doing which, see the jYursery for this month.

304 THE PLEASURE-GARDEN. [March.

Clean the Pleasure- Garden.

Every part of this garden should be now well cleaned and put into
the best order. Give the flower borders, beds, Sec. a general spring
dressing, by digging, hoeing, and raking; let the edgings of box, Sec.
be regulated, where disorderly, and the gravel-walks be well cleared
from weeds and litter, and occasionally rolled.

Keep the grass lawns, walks. Sec. now well cleared from litter and
worm-cast earth, which appears unsightly, and spoils the compact
evenness of the sward: give them, therefore, occasional rollings with
a heavy roller, whereby to preserve a clean, even, firm surface,
neat to appearance, and that can be mowed close and regular with
greater facility.

The edges of all the grass walks and lawns, should now be cut
even with an edging-iron, (see page 78) which will add greatly to
the general neatness.

Making Grass-Walks and Lawns.

The sooner in this month that you can make any grass-walks,
lawns, or grass-plats, that may be necessary, the better; as the
roots will have time to establish themselves, before the great
droughts and heats commence. Turf, when it can conveniently be
got, is always preferable to sowing grass-seed, but in extensive
lawns, the latter, of necessity, must be resorted to. The best turf for
those purposes, is that of a close-fed pasture or common, where the
sward is tough, and the grass short and fine.

If you have much to lay, you should be provided with a turfing-
iron. This instrument is formed with an iron plate for the cutter,
six or seven inches wide, rounding at the edge, very sharp, and
about a foot long, pretty much in the form of a spade; and at the
tread, it is forged or connected to a long bent iron handle, the bend-
ing so formed as to admit of the plate or cutter resting flat on the
ground, in the proper position for flaying the turf; the iron handle
at top being either formed like the handle of a spade, or having a
socket near the plate to place a crooked wooden and properly head-
ed handle therein. With this instrument, turf can be taken off, with
much more convenience and expedition, than with a spade; but when
it cannot be conveniently had, a spade may do very well.

It will also be necessary in order to go completely about your
work, to have a racer or sward-cutter. This should have a stout
wooden handle, about four feet long and bent a little in the lower end,
like a boy's common; having about four or five inches of the point
end of an old scythe, placed transversely in the lower extremity, with
the point downwards, projecting an inch and a half, with the edge
iforward and made fast in a slit in the handle, with a couple of rivets;
so that when pushed before you, it may expeditiously cut the sward
as you race it along.

Having this instrument, strain a line tight, first lengthways, then
f?trikc the racer into the sward close to the line, run it alosjg, it will

March.] THE GREEN-HOUSE. 305

expeditiously cut its way and divide the turf to a proper depth; di-
rectly place the line a foot farther, and race it out as before, and so
proceed to as many widths as may be wanted, then with the line
placed cross-ways, race out the sward in yard lengths. Being
thus divided, the turf-cutter with his turfing iron, proceeds to cut
them up, about an inch and a half thick, which he can do with
great expedition, and according as they are cut, each should be
rolled up with the grass side inward, as close and firm as possible,
for the more ready carrying and removing them without breaking.

Let the ground where the turf is to be laid, be made as even as
possible, that it may settle equally thereafter, and rake the surface
smooth. In laying them, make the edges join close every way, and
as soon as laid, the whole should be immediately well beaten, with
a wooden beater, and afterwards rolled with a heavy stone, or iron
roller.

Gravel Walks.

Now is the time to begin to turn gravel walks where the surface
is dirty. Sec. especially in the middle states, observing, that this is
to be done where necessary, in all parts of the Union as early as
possible in spring.

The gravel walks which display a dirty surface, or are annoyed
with weeds, should be turned as early in this month as the weather
gets dry and comfortable, in order to render them neat and conve-
nient for walking on. For the method of doing which, as well as
that of their general formation and treatment see the Flower-gar-
den for next month, to which I particularly refer you, and advise
as much of that work to be done in this, as the weather and hurry
of business will permit.

Such graveUwalks as were broken up and laid in ridges the be-
ginning of winter, which is a very bad practice as noticed in page
77, should now be levelled down, formed, dressed, and rolled, as di-
rected next month.

The necessity of due attention being paid to all your walks, on
the opening of spring, is so evident, that it is scarcely necessary to
urge it; the having ihem neat and newly dressed, will give a gay
and sprightly appearance to the whole garden.

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

The Green-house plants should View have plenty of air ad-
mitted to them at all favourable opportunities, particularly as the
weather gets warm towards the latter end of the month, but due

2 Q

306 THE GREEN-HOUSE. [March.

attention must be paid, in any sudden changes, which are very fre-
quent at this season, to preserve them from cold, cutting, or frosty
winds; during the prevalence of which, the windows, 8tc should
be kept close, for such weather would ruin some of the tender
kinds, and would be of bad consequence to all. It need hardly be
said that the windows and doors must be kept close every night,
and should imperious necessity require it, in the early part of the
month, the flues heated at night to counteract the power of severe
frosts.

Look over the tubs or pots every other day, and see where water
is wanting, and lei such as require it be supplied therewith, taking
care to use moderation in ihat caKC. Water will be serviceable to
most of the plants, but especially to all the woody kinds, which will
now require more frequent refreshments, if fine mild weather, but
always in moderate quantities; and be still careful, on the whole, not
to give too much water at a time, for that would prove the destruc-
tion of many kinds, and would be prejudical to ihe plants in gene-
ral, especially if a cold season, and while they are conBned in the
green-house.

Keep every plant in the house free from decayed leaves; that is,
where such appear let them be immediately picked off; for these,
if generally permitted to remain would injure the plants; besides,
they appear disagreeable.

Any decayed or mouldy shoots should be cut clean off to the firm
live wood, and where dust, or any sort of filth, appears on the leaves
of the plants, let them be cleared therefrom: if those of the oranges,
lemons, and other large-leaved kinds, are foul, have a sponge dipped
in water, and clean them therewith, one by one, and let the small
leaved sorts be cleaned by watering, out of a watering-pot, all over
their heads.

Orangea, Lemons, and Myrtles.

Where any of the oranges, lemons, and myrtles, &c. have naked
or irregular heads, you may now towards the latter end of the
month, if mild fine weather, begin to reduce them to some regu-
larity. The branches or head may either be cut close, or shortened
less or more to th« place where you desire shoots to rise, to form
the head regular, for they will break out in the old wood.

When any trees are thus headed down, it would also be an ad-
vantage to shift them, especially such as are of a weekly growth,
in order to add a little fresh earth about their roots; and the me-
thod is this: let the tree be taken out of its tub or pot, but preserve
the ball of earth entire; then trim off with your knife any very
matted roots, or dry fibres round the outside, and also some of the
loose old earth from the bottom and sides of the ball; and, having
fresh compost ready, put some into the bottom of the pot or tub;
place the tree therein, fill up round the ball with fresh earth, and
give it a little water.

But in heading down any of the green-house plants, if time will
not permit, or that you think it not necessary to shift them as above,
do not, however, fail to loosen the earth in the top of the tub or pots.

March.] THE GREEK-HOUSE. 307

and a little way down round the sides, and draw this loose earth
out; then iill up the tub again with new compost, and give some
Water.

But where any orange or lemon trees, are in a very weak or
sickly unprosperous growth, it would be adviseable about the latter
end ot this month, or beginning of next, to prune the heads and
shift them into entire new earth; taking the plant clean out of the
pot, all the old earth shaken entirely from its roots, and all mouldy
and decayed roots cut off; then let the whole root be washed in
water, and plant it again immediately in a tub or pot of new earth,
taking care not to place it too deep; and give water moderately.

After this shifting, it would be a great advantage to the same
plants, if you have the conveniency of a glass-case, &c. in which
previously to make a hot-bed of tan or dung, but tan is much pre-
feruble, and if in this bed the trees are plunged, they will shoot
sooner and more freely, both in root and top, to recover good
strength, and a renewed head of branches of prosperous growth,
early in the following summer.

Heading doivn Myrtles, Sgc.

Where myrtles, or other similar exotics, have decayed branches,
or their heads thin, straggling, and irregular, they may now also be
headed down, more or less, as it shall seem proper, and either shift
them into some fresh earth, as directed above for the oranges, or
some of the top-mould within the pots taken out, and a little round
the sides; then fill up with fresh earth, and water them.

These trees with this management, will shoot out again, and in
four or five months lime, will be furnished with entire new heads.
Supply them duly with water.

Shifting Plants, that want it, into larger Pots.

Any of the oranges, lemons, or myrtles, or other green-house
plants, that want larger pots, may be shifted therein, with some
fresh earth, towards the end of this month, when the weather is
mild.

in performing this, let each plant intended for shifting, be turned
out of its present pot with the ball of earth entire; but let any
thickly-matted or dry mouldy roots, on the out-side of the ball, be
pared off with a sharp knife; then set them in their new pots, and
fill up the spaces with fresh earth.

Water them immediately afier this, set them in their places
in the green house, and they will shoot freely both at the root and
top.

Care of Geraniums, Sfc.

Examine the geraniums and other plants of a similar growthj
the young snoots being somewhat succulent, are more liable to in-
jury from the effects of a severe winter, or great damps, than the

308 '^HE GREEN-HOUSE. [March.

harder-wooded exotics, so as sometimes many of them decay or
mould; and which, where they occur, should now be pruned away:
likewise pick off all decayed leaves.

Giving fresh Earth to the Pots of Gi'een-house Plants.

The oranges, and green-house plants in general, which do not
require shifting, should at this time, have some fresh earth added
to the tops of their pots or tubs; it will encourage the plants great-
ly, and it is soon done.

First loosen the old earth, in the lops of the tubs, or pots, quite
to the surface of the roots, but so as not to disturb them, and loosen
it also down round the sides a little way; then take out the loose
earth and fill up the pots with some that is new, and give them a
moderate watering.

Sow Seeds of Green-house Plants, Sfc.

A hot-bed may be made the beginning of this month to sow the
seeds of tender plants, either of the green-house or stove kinds.
The bed should be made either of hot dung, or fresh tanner's bark,
and covered with frames and glasses; or if made of hot dung, lay
eight, ten or twelve inches of tan-bark at top, either new or old,
both in which to plunge the pots, &c. and to continue longer a re-
gular heat.

The seeds should be sown in pots of light earth, and these
plunged to their rims in the tan, and moderately watered at times,
as you see occasion.

Where tan cannot be obtained readily, make the bed of hot dung,
three feet high; set a frame on, and when the burning heat is over,
lay on four or five inches depth of earth; then fill some middling
small pots with fine light mould, sow the seeds therein, and cover
Ihem lightly with sifted earth; then plunge the pots in the earth on
the bed, and put on the glasses.

Let the pots in general be frequently sprinkled with water, and
when the plants appear, give them fresh air, by raising the glasses
behind a little way. Observe to keep up the heat of the bed, by
applying a lining of fresh hot dung, when it declines much, and
protect them occasionally from the too powerful influence of the
mid-day sun.

Sowing Kernels of Oranges for Stocks.

Now is the time to sow the kernels of oranges and lemons, in
order to raise stocks to bud any of those kinds of trees upon.

The best method of sowing these kernels is this: fill some mid-
dle-sized pots with very good earth; sow the kernels in the pots,
and cover them half an incli deep, with earth; then plunge the pots
into a hot bed, and let them be frequently watered. See the Green-
Aottse, next month.

March.] THE HOT-HOUSE. 309

Propagating by Cuttings, Layers, Sfc.

Propagate, by cuttings and slips, various shrubby green-house
plants, as myrtles, geraniums, fuschias, oleanders, hydrangeas,
jasmines, coronillas, justicias. Sec. The young shoots planted in
pots, and placed in a hot-bed, will soon strike root and grow free-
ly; or where tliere is the convenience of bark-beds, either in a hot-
house, or under any glass frames, Sec these, and many other sorts,
if plunged therein, may be struck very expeditiously; or, if at the
same time, some are covered with a hand-glass, it will still more
expedite their rooting, givmg proper waterings.

Likewise propagate shrubby kinds by layers, and also different
sorts by suckers, 8cc.

THE HOT-HOUSE.

Fruiting Pines.

It is en a diie proportion of air admitted into the Hot-house,
that the goodness of the pine plants in a great measure depends.
The want of it will cause them to grow with long leaves and weak
stems, which plants, never produce good fruit.

On the other hand, air admitted in too great a quantity, or at im-
proper times, will injure the plants, and cause them to grow yel-
low and sickly.

In the depth of winter, during the time that the plants are nearly
in a state of inaction, the hot-house will require but very little air;
yet it will absolutely be necessary to take every favourable oppor-
tunity to let out the foul air, and admit fresh, when it can be done
with safety to the plants; the letting down the glasses a little way,
even for a few minutesi in the middle of the day, is of more impor-
tance than inexperienced ])ersons can conceive, especially when
there is a little sun and a mild wind. But at this season, particu-
larly in the advanced part of the month, to have regard to the words
give air on the botanical thermometers, is not necessary, for a lit-
tle may with much safety be given, although the spirits should not
rise higher than 62 '' of Fahrenheit, or six or eight degrees above
temperate.

It will be necessary to continue a regular degree of heat in the
house, as directed last month, by keeping up a fire-heat every even-
ing, night, and morning, but more particularly in severe weather;

310 THE HOT-HOUSE. [March.

and a constant heat in the bark-bed. As the heat of the weather in-
creases, and the siin becomes powerful, the morning fires, in par-
ticular, must be regulated accordingly.

The fruiting-plants will now generally show fruit; they must
therefore have very particular care, and not be suffered to want a
sufficiency of bottom heat, air, or a reasonable portion of water.

Examine the bark-bed, and see if there is a proper heat; for upon
that depends the success of having handsome and full-sized fruit.
The great article is to preserve difree growth in the fruit, from their
first appearance to the time of their maturity; this must be done
by keeping the bark-bed to a proper degree of heat; that is, it
should be quite lively, for a faint heat will not answer the purpose;
therefore, on examining the bed, if you find it much decreased, let
preparation be made for its revival as soon a possible.

Provide, for that purpose, a quantity of new bark from the tan-
ners, the beginning of this month. The middle-sized bark is to be
chosen, and such as has been at least a fortnight or three weeks out
of the tan-vats.

The quantity of fresh bark necessary to provide at this time,
should be equal to near one third of what the bark-pit will contain.
This when brought home, if very full of moisture, and but little or
no heat, should be thrown up in a heap, to remain eight or ten days,
to drain and prepare for fermentation. But if very wet, it should be
first spread thin in an open sunny place for two or three days to dry,
and be then thrown in a heap.

When your bark is ready, and that the bark-pit is declined in
heat, the latter end of this month, or earlier if necessary, proceed
to fork up and renew it as directed in page 177, and immediately
replunge the pots. The whole of this work should be begun and
finished the same day if possible.

The heat of the old-bark, not being quite exhausted, will cause
the new immediately to ferment, and if well proportioned, and mix-
ed, and that it is done towards the end of the month, it will retain a
kindly growing heat till the fruit is ripe. For further particulars,
see Jaiiuarxj and February,

Succession Pines.

As the length of the day and power of the sun increases, these
plants will begin to grow freely, and from that time it will be neces-
sary to keep them in a regular growing state; for if young plants
receive a check afterwards, it generally causes many of them to
start fruit. Frovn this time forward th<;y will require a little water
occasionally, just what is only sufficient to keep the earth in a mo-
derate state of moisture, for too much would injure them.

About the middle of the month or soon after, will be an eligible
season for shifting them; in the doing of which, shake off the whole
ball of earth, and cut off all the roots that are of a black colour,
carefully preserving such only, as are white and strong. Then put
the plants that are intended to fruit next season, in pots of eight or

March.] THE HOT-HOUSE. 311

nine inches diameter at the top, and seven deep, with fresh mould
entire.

The bed at this time should be renewed with a little fresh tan,
and forked up in order to promote its heating, and the pots plunged
therein immediately. The Hot-house should be kept pretty warm
till the heat of the tan begins to rise, as it will be the means of caus-
ing the plants to strike both sooner and stronger.

As soon as the bed gets warm, give the plants a sprinkling of wa-
ter over their leaves; and when you perceive them to grow, give
water according as they require it; and as the weather increases ia
heat, give air in proportion.

Various Shrubby and Succulent Hot-House Plants.

The various kinds of shrubby and succulent exotics, will require
the same treatment this month as direttjd in the last, page 178,
&c. but particularly observing to give them air in proportion as the
heat of the weather increases, and water according to their respec-
tive necessities, as noticed in Februart^.

Propagation of Exotic Trees, Shrubs and Plants,

This is a very proper time to sow such seeds of rare plants as you
are able to procure: those that are in good condition and whose
nature it is to vegetate the first season, will rise freely, but many
kinds will not grow for three, four, five or six months after sowing;
and others not for a year; therefore, it will be necessary to have
patience, and to take care all the time of the whole, as well the pots
in which the plants do not rise, as those that do; if you have room
to plunge them into the bark pit, or into hot-beds at work or made
for the purpose, it will greatly facilitate their growth.

You may now propagate many kinds by suckers, cuttings, and
layers, which should be duly attended to, particularly such as are
scarce and difficult to be obtained.

Raising early Flowers, Fruits, ^c. in the Hot-House.

Pots of any desirable flowering plants may still be introduced, to
forward an early bloom, such as pinks, fuschias, hydrangeas, roses,
carnations, and many others. See February^ &c.

Also pots of strawberries and vines, as in the two foi'mer months,
to continue the supply of early fruit.

Likewise a few more kidney-beans, &c. See last month and
January.

In hot-houses where vines are trained in, from plants growing on
the outside, and conducted up under the glasses, &c. they will to-
wards the end of this month, or earlier according to the degree of
heat kept up, be well advanced in young shoots, having fruit, which
shoots should be carefully trained along in regular order, and all
the improper and superfluous growths cut away.

312

APRIL.

THE KITCHEN-GARDEN.

PREVIOUS to entering upon the work of the Kitchen-Gar-
tlen, &c. for this month, it will be proper to observe, that a great
portion of the open ground culture and sowing, necessary to be
done in some places in April, have been fully treated of in March,
in ordtr to accommodate those citizens of the middle states, whose
gardens, from the nature of soil and situation, admit of early sow-
ing, as well as a desire in many, to have their crops at as early a
period as possible, either for sale, or family use; and also for the
general accommodation of the more southerly states; that month be-
ing their principal season for gardening. But in the eastern states
generally, and in such parts of the middle states as the ground is
naturally of a binding and heavy nature, this will be the most eligi-
ble period, for sowing their general garden crops; always observ-
ing, to sow the hardy kinds as early in the month as the soil, sea-
son, and situation will admit of; in order that the young plants
may be established, before they are overtaken by the summer heat
and drought; but never, or on any account, should a stiflF or moist
ground be wrought, till it gets so dry as to fall to pieces in the
working, nor delayed till it binds and becomes hard. Let the spade
not be applied, till every particle of water, that is not in contact with
the clay, is either drained away, or drawn off by the air; nick that
time, and you will then find the earth to work freely, and not sub-
ject to bind afterwards; for if a clay is worked before this critical
period, it kneads like dough, becomes more tough, and never fails
to bind when drought follows, which not only prevents the seeds to
rise, but injures the plants materially in their subsequent growth,
by its becoming impervious to the moderate rains, dews, air, and
influence of the sun, which are all necessary to the promotion of
vegetation.

On the other hand, a light sandy soil will be rather benefited by
working it when moist, as such will have a tendency to make it
more compact, and consequently more retentive of moisture.

The nearer the ground approaches to a sand, the less retentive
will it be of moisture; the more to a clay the longer will it retain
it; and the finer the particles of which the clay is composed, the
faster will it hold every small particle of water, and consequently
be longer in drying, and become harder when dry: but earth of a
consistence that will hold water the longest, without becoming- hard
•when drt/y is that of all others, the best adapted for raising the gene-
rality of plants, in the greatest perfection. This last described, is
called loam, and is a medium earth, between the extremes of clay
and sand.

April.] THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. 31 3

The great art of improving sandy and clay soils; is, to give to the
former, such dressings of clay, cow-dung, ^nd other kinds of ma-
nure, as will have a tendency to bind and make it more comj.act,
and consequently more retentive of moisture; and to the latter,
coats of sandy earth, pond-mud, horse-dung, and such other com-
posts as may tend to separate its particles and open its pores, there-
by easily to discharge any superabundance of moisture, and cause
it to approach, as near as possible, to a loam; which may be greatly
assisted by summer and winter fallowing; for the winter frost, and
summer heat, being the plough and spade of nature, have a power
to separate the particles of earth, by the expansion of the particles
of water, lodged between, and in contact with them, more effectually
than the ploughs and spades made by the hand of man; but when
art and nature act in co-operation, the business is more speedily
accomplished. This is the foundation stone, of horticulture and
agriculture, and merits the serious consideration of every person
concerned.

Let it not be understood, that I am an advocate for late sowing
or planting; I am the reverse, when it can be done under favour-
able circumstances.

The above remarks are applicable generally, to all the other
open-ground departments, as well as to the Kitchen-Garden; but
particularly, in as much as they have relation to the sowing of
seeds.

Care of Cucumbers and Melons, S^c.

Examine your cucumber and melon beds, and if any have de-
clined in heat, especially in the early part of the month, line them
with fresh dung, as directed in page 17: this will be necessary, in
order to obtain plentiful crops of fruit.

As the sun is now become very powerful, all kinds of plants,
which you have in hot-beds, will require abundance of air, and oc-
casional shade; for if the beds were left close shut, only for a few
hours, during the prevalence of a hot mid-day sun, the whole would
be scorched to death: therefore, you ought never to leave the
garden at such times, without first raising the glasses, and giving
shade to the plants if thought necessary.

Making new Hot-beds for Cucumbers and Melons.

In order to have successional crops of cucumbers and melons,
you may in the early part of this month, make new hot-beds, either
for the reception of plants or for sowing the seeds; observing
the directions given in the former months, as well for these, as the
due attention which fruiting and other plants require.

Making Hot-bed Ridges, for Cucumbers and Melons.

Make hot-bed ridges, about the middle of this month, for the cu-
cumber and melon plants raised last month, in order tojje planted

'^ R

314 A'HE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [April.

under hand or bell-glasses. For this purpose, make trenches three
feet widcj and two deep, in a warm dry part of the garden, and fill
them to the surface, with good fresh horse dung, as directed in Ja-
nuary for other hot-beds; then you may either earth them direct-
ly, or in two or three days after, when the dung will be settled, and
the heat arisen to the top of the bed, laying from seven to nine
inches thick of light rich earth over every part.

When this is done and all the surface made smooth, lay on your
hand or bell-glasses, in the middle of the ridge, four feet asunder,
and keep them close down, till the dung has thoroughly warmed the
earth, then proceed to put in the plants.

You may plant under each glass two strong melon plants, or three
cucumbers; observing if possible, to remove and plant them with
balls of earth about their roots.

As soon as they are planted, let them be moderately watered, and
directly set on the glasses: if sunny weather, and the sun power-
ful, shade them a little with a mat over each glass; and repeat the
waterings occasionally, once or twice a week, according to the de-
gree of warmth in the bed, and temperature of the weather; but
let moderation be always observed, in performing this work, espe-
cially when newly planted.

When the plants are well taken with the ground and growing
freely, give them plenty of air, by raising the glasses on one side,
and when they have grown so large as to run out under the glasses,
let these be raised on brick-bats, stones, or pieces of wood, to give
full liberty to the plants, and do not take them off totally, till to-
wards the end of May.

Cucumber and melon seeds may be sown about the middle of
this month, on ridges made as above, and protected with glasses;
these will be much earlier, than if sown in the beginning of May,
in the open ground, and much more profitable to market-gardeners.

Planting Cauliflowers.

In order to have cauliflowers in good perfection, you must be
provided with stout early plants, such as are strong, and, in the
middle states, perfectly fit for planting out, early in this month:
being furnished with these, select a piece of very rich loam, rather
inclining to moisture, but by no means wet, and such as will not be
subject, either to burn or become stiff and bound by severe drought,
always avoiding sand, or clay, as much as possible; give it at least,
four or five inches deep of well rotted cow-dung, or if this cannot
be had, other old manure; dig or trench it one good spade or
eighteen inches deep, incorporating the manure effectually there-
with, as you proceed in digging or trenching.

Then in the first week of this month, take up your plants, which
were managed as directed in the preceding months, with a trans-
planter or hollow trowel, one by one, preserving as much earth as
possible about their roots, and plant them down to their leaves, in
rows three feet asunder, and the same distance, plant from plant, in
the rows, forming a little hollow (bason like) about eight inches

April.] THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. 315

over, and two deep, round every plant, to receive water occasionally,
till fit for earthing up; and which, immediately previous to landing
the plants, should be filled with good compost earth, if convenient.
Then give each z little water, which repeat at intervals of three
or four days, till in a vigorous growing state, and afterwards occa-
sionally. Or, after having first manured and dug the ground, you
may make trenches as if for celery, in the direction of north and
south, and in the bottom of each, lay four inches deep of well rotted
cow-dung, cast thereon five or six inches of earth, and point over
the whole with your spade, mixing the earth and dung effectually:
in these trenches plant your cauliflower plants at the above distances,
and give occasional waterings as before.

To attempt planting cauliflowers in poor ground, would be labour
in vain; they love, nay they require a deep, very rich, and moist
loam, and agree exceedingly well, with large quantities of manure.

You should be provided with hand-glasses, garden-pots, or covers
made of two boards, each a foot long, and nailed together at right
angles, to cover every plant, at night and in very severe weather,
for two or three weeks after planting; observing to take them off",
early each morning, except the weather is desperate, and never to
keep a dark covering over the plants, longer than necessity I'equires.

This occasional protection is necessary, to keep them in a con-
stant and uninterrupted state of vegetation, for if stunted at this pe-
riod, by frost or too much cold, many will button, and very few pro-
duce large flowers.

The early cauliflower plants, under hand-glasses, should have
earth drawn up to their stems. This will be of a great service in pro-
moting a strong forward growth.

The hand or bell-glasses may still be continued over these plants
on nights, and cold wet weather; but in warm days, and when there
are mild rains, let them be exposed to the free air: when the plants
are considerably advanced in growth, the glasses should be raised
proportionably high on props; first drawing a border of earth, two
or three inches high, or more, round each plant; then place the
props upon that, and set the glasses thereon; but towards the end
of this month, or beginning of next, they should be taken entirely
away.

The above instructions will suit any part of the Union, except as
to time of planting, which should in every place be, on the eve of
the first brisk spring vegetation, when no danger can be appre-
hended from subsequent frosts; and where this can be done in
December, January, or February, with safety, so much the better.

Young cauliflower plants raised from seed sown last month,
should now be pricked out into nursery-beds, or some in a hot-bed,
to forward them for final transplanting. See page 184.

Solving Caulijiower Seed.

Cauliflower seed may be sown any time this month, in the open
ground, to raise plants for heading in October, &c.
For the further treatment of cauliflowers, see May.

316 THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [April

Cabbages.

As early in this month as possible, plant out your general crops
of cabbage plants, observing to set all the early heading kinds, at
the distance of two feet and a half every way, and all the late sorts,
at that of three feet.

As to soil and preparation, the nearer you approach in both, to
that directed for cauliflowers, the larger cabbages you will have;
but where they are desired very early, you must adapt the soil and
situation to that purpose.

Some of the cabbage and savoy plants, which were sown in March,
for a succession of young summer and autumn cabbages, and a
forward autumn crop of savoys, should be thinned out and pricked
into nursery-beds, to get strength before they are planted out for
good.

Let this be done when the plants have leaves one or two inches
broad: prepare beds of good earth about three feet and a half wide,
in an open situation, and let the largest plants be drawn out regu-
larly from the seed-bed, and planted in those prepared for them, at
four or five inches distance every way. Water them immediately,
and repeat it occasionally, in dry weather.

The smaller plants which are left in the seed-beds, should be
cleared from weeds: give them a good watering, to settle the earth
about their roots, loosened in drawing out the others; they will
then grow strong, and in two or three weeks, be in fine order for
transplantation.

Soiaing Cabbage Seeds.

Sow now a general assortment of cabbage seeds, such as early-
York, early sugar-loaf, and early Battersea, to succeed those sown
in March, and large late Battersea, large late sugar-loaf, flat Dutch,
drum head, large English, large Scotch, flat-sided, and Savoys, for
autumn and winter use. Sow also, the seed of the red pickling
cabbage, to succeed those sown in the former months. The earlier
you sow all these kinds, the larger and better cabbages will you
have.

Sow these seeds tolerably thin, in open beds or borders, and keep
them free from weeds, till fit for planting out; or if they are trans-
planted into other beds, when about four inches high, it will greatly
strengthen them, and render them in a much better condition for
final transplanting.

Sowing Borecole, or Fringed Cabbage.

The varieties of this are: 1. Green curled. 2. Red curled. 3.
Thick-leaved curled. 4. Finely fringed. 5. Siberian, or Scotch
Kale.

For the garden, these may be treated in every respect as winter
cabbages; they are extremely hardy, and never so delicious, as
when rendered tender by smart frosts; they are very valuable

April.] THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 317

plants to cultivate, particularly in the more southerly states, as they
Avill there, be in the greatest perfection during the winter months;
they will also, if planted in a gravelly soil and in a sheltered warm
situation, bear the winters of the middle states, and may be kept in
great perfection, in the eastern states, if managed as directed in page
192, which see. The deliciousness of their sprouts in spring, surpas-
ses every thing of the kind, which they produce in great abundance.
The seeds of either sort may be sown any time this month, and treat-
ed in every particular as directed for cabbages.

The green and red Borecole, is also a very useful green food for
sheep; because, it is not only hardy, but if sown in time, will grow
three or four feet high, and may in deep snows be got at by
these animals, who frequently suffer much for want of food in such
cases.

Turnep- Cabbage, and Tiirnep-rooted Cabbage.

The turnep-cabbage produces its bulb or protuberance, which
approaches to roundness, on the stem above ground, immediately
under the leaves. It is eatable when young, and about ihe size
of a tolerably large garden turnep. The bulb or protuberance,
must be stripped of its thick fibrous rind, and then it may be treated
and used as a turnep. Some of their bulbs grow to twenty-three
inches in circumference and weigh upwards of twelve pounds.

The seeds may now be sown and the plants afterwards treated as
you do caboage; only that in earthing up the plants, when grown to
a good size, you must be cautious not to cover the globular part,
which is to be eaten. They are much more hardy than turneps, and
in Europe are cultivated for the feeding of cows and sheep, as well
as for table use; in either case they treat them as they do cabbages,
or sow them like turneps, and afterwards hoe them out to proper
distances.

The turhep-rooted cabbage, has an oblong thick root pretty much
of the form of the winter radish, but very large and is a valuable ar-
ticle to cultivate for cattle; as it produces, with proper care, from
twenty-five to thirty tons per acre. It is extremely hardy, and very
seldom injured by frost, and would be found an excellent sheep food
in April, where the frosts are not overly desperate. It merits atten-
tion from the farmer and is frequently used for culinary purj.'oses,
in the same manner as the Turnep-cabbage. The tops and sprouts
make delicious greens in spring.

Brussels'' Sprouts and Jerusalem Kale.

The Brussels' sprouts is an open headed cabbage, grows very high,
and is remarkable for producing a great quantity of excellent sprouts
in spring.

The Jerusalem Kale, is one of the most hardy plants of the cab-
bage tribe; it never heads, but, the leaves after being pinched by a
smart frost, make most delicious greens, and boil greener than any
other of the cabbage kind; it bears a very severe winter, and affords
a grateful supply, when most other plants perish.

318 THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [April.

Both these kinds are cultivated in the same manner as cabbages;
their seeds may now be sown; but let it be observed, that they stand
the winter frosts better, when planted in a gravelly soil, than in any
other.

Broccoli.

There are several varieties of the Broccoli, which are all but late
heading varieties of the cauliflower, such as the Roman or purple,
the Neapolitan or white, the green, and black broccoli, with some
others; but the Roman and Neapolitan are in most estimation. The
seeds should be sown in the early part of this month, if not before,
and afterwards, when of due size, pricked out in beds at the distance
of four inches apart, and watered; there to remain till arrived of suf-
ficient strength for planting in the quarters, where intended to
produce their flowers or heads.

The early purple broccoli, if sown early in this month and plant-
ed as you do cabbage, in good rich ground, will produce 6ne heads
in October or November, very little inferior to cauliflowers, and by
many preferredto them; the white, will not flower so early, and in the
middle and eastern states, must be taken up in November and ma-
naged as directed in that month, by which, a supply of this very de-
licious vegetable may be had in great perfection during all the win-
ter and spring.

In such of the southern states, as their winters are not more severe
than in England, they will stand in the open ground, and continue
to produce their fine flov/ers, from'October to April. In the middle,
and especially in the eastern states, if the seeds are sown early in
March, on a hot-bed, and forwarded as is done with cauliflowers and
early cabbage plants, and planted out finally in April, it would be
the most certain method of obtaining 4ar^ and early flowers. All
these kinds produce heads exactly like the cauliflower, only that
some are of a purple colour, some green, some black, and the white
kind, so exactly resembles the true cauliflower, as to be scarcely
distinguished therefrom, either in colour or taste.

If any plants were raised in the preceding months, let some of
them be pricked out now, into nursery beds, to get strength for
planting out finally.

Peas.

Continue to sow successional crops of peas, every ten or twelve
days, as directed in pages 134 and 186, to which I refer you for in-
structions.

You may now sow the dwarf-sugar and the dwarf Spanish-peas;
they are both plentiful bearers, and do not require to be rodded, as
they never rise more than from twelve to eighteen inches high.
They are to be sown in drills two feet asunder, very thin, and cover-
ed about two inches deep.

Leadman's dwarf pea, is perhaps the most prolific and profitable
of the wiiole family; it bears most abundantly, and is very delicious;
it rises to the height of from two and a half, to three feel, accord-
ing to the soil, and may. or may not be rodded, but if having some
support, the produce will be the greater.

April.] THE KITCHEN -GARDEN. 319

The tall crooked sugar pea, is particularly worthy of cultivation,
and should now be sown; its green pods when young, are boiled like
kidney beans, and are uncommonly sweet and delicious; these grow
to a considerable height, and require rods from seven to eight feet
high, and to be sown in drills, at least, four feet asunder.

If you sowed no peas in the pi'eceding months, the early-frame,
early Golden, and Charleton hotspur kinds, should now be sown for
first crops; and for succession, the Glory of England, Spanish mo-
rotto, white, gieen, and grey rouncivals; or the tall marrowfat, Im-
perial, sugar-poland, and blue Prussian kinds. The nine last sorts,
should be planted in drills at the distance of four feet at least, and be
rodded or sticked, to the height of six feel or more, by which you
may expect very abundant crops. Rods from four to five feet high,
will answer for the early frame and hotspur kinds, and also, for the
pearl-peas and Essex-reading, all of which are very prolific bearers.

Draw earth to such rows of peas as are up, and advanced a little
in height; which will strengthen the plants, and forward them great-
ly in their growth.

This earthing should always be performed, for the first time, when
the plants are about three or four inches high.

Be very particular to rod or place sticks, to such rows of peas,
as have attained the height of five or six inches; if this is not time-
ly attended to, the crops will be greatly injured; for peas are never
so productive as when rodded, before they begin to fall to either
one side or the other. For the method of doing which, see page
187.

Planting and Earthing up Beans.

In the early part of this month, you may plant long-pod and
Windsor beans, with every other variety of that species. These
are always most productive, when planted early; but if you are de-
sirous of a succession of this kind of bean, as long as possible, your
late crops must be of the early Mazagan, early Lisbon, or green Ge-
noa kinds, but more particularly the latter; as it bears our summer
heat, better than any of the whole family. For particulars, see page
187.

Such beans as are advanced in growth, to the height of four or
five inches, must have some earth drawn up to their stems, which
will greatly refresh and strengthen them.

Lettuces,

Transplant lettuces of every kind that require it, where they
stand too close; both those of the winter standing, or such as were
sown in any of the former months, and are now grown to a sufficient
size.

Choose a spot of good ground for these plants, and if moderately
dunged, it will prove beneficial to their growth: dig the ground
evenly one spade deep, and rake the surface smooth, then plant the

320 THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [APRit.

lettuces about ten or twelve inches distant each way; water them
immediately, and repeat it occasionally in dry weather, till they have
taken good root.

For the method of planting, the kinds most deserving of cultiva«
tion, and other particulars, see page 188.

Continue to sow a variety of the best kinds of lettuce, once every
two weeks, that there may be a regular succession. Dig a spot of
rich ground for them, in an open situation, sow the seed even, not
too thick, and rake them in lightly. Scatter a few seeds among other
general crops, and they will grow large and fine.

Smcdl Sallading.

Sow small sallading, generally, about once every week or fort-
night; the sorts are lettuce, cresses, mustard, rape and radish, &.c.

Dig a bed of light mellow earth for these seeds, and rake the sur-
face fine. Draw some flat shallow drills; sow the seeds therein, each
kind separate, and cover them lightly with earth.

Water them moderately if the weather should be dry, which will
greatly promote their growth.

For more particulars respecting small sallading, see pages 126
and 197.

Radishes.

Thin the general crops of radishes where they have arisen too
thick, leaving the plants about two or three inches asunder, and
clear them from weeds.

Radish seed, both of the short-topped, salmon-coloured, and white
Naples sorts, should be sown at three different times this month;
by which means a constant supply of young radishes may be ob-
tained, allowing about twelve days between each time of sowing;
choosing at this season an open situation for the seed: sow it evenly
on the surface, cover, or rake it well in, and the plants will come up
in a few days, and be of proper size for drawing, in three or four
weeks.

The crops of early radishes, in general, should be often watered
in dry weather; this will promote their swelling freely, and will pre-
vent their growing hot and sticky.

Sow a thin sprinkling of radish seed, among other low growing
crops; such will generally be found very good.

Turnep-rooted radishes, of both the white and red kinds, should
now be sown, and treated as directed in page 189. Thin such of
them as were sown last month, to two or three inches apart. You
may likewise, sow some of the white Spanish radishes, but the ge-
neral time for sowing that, and the black winter kind, is June, July
and August.

Sowing Spinach.

Continue now to sow seed of the round leaved Spinach, every ten
or twelve days, agreeably to the directions given in page 189. which
see. Hoe the spinach sowed in the former months, and thin the
plants, to three, four, or five inches distance.

April*] THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. 321

Carrots and Parsneps,

Carrots may now be sown for a full crop; but in order to have
tolerable sized roots in some reasonable time in summer, let the
seed be sown the beginning of the month.

Where, however, a supply of young carrots are required, it is
proper to perform three different sowings this month; the first, in
the beginning, the second, about the middle, and the third, towards
the latter end.

Parsneps may also be sown in the beginning or middle of this
month; but if later, the crop will not succeed well, at least not to
have large swelling roots in full perfection.

For the method of sowing both carrots and parsneps, see page
190.

A''ote. There are several varieties, of the garden carrot; differ-
ing in the colour of their roots; such as the orange, white, yellow,
and dark red. These variations may be continued, by taking care
not to mix them together in the same garden. There is another
variety called the horn-carrot, differing in the form of its root, the
lower part terminating in a round, abrupt manner, and not tapering
off gradually, like the others; this is the earliest sort, is of an orange
colour, and very delicious; and should always be sown for a first
crop. The long orange carrot, is the best for a principal crop. They
all delight and thrive, in a deep, rich, sandy loam.

Celery.

The young celery plants, arising from the seed sown in February
or March, for an early crop, will be fit to prick out now, some in the
beginning, and others towards the middle or latter end of the month,
into a nursery-bed of rich light earth, or in a hot-bed, to forward
them still more.

Prepare a spot of ground, form it into three or four feet wide
beds, and rake the surface smooth; then thin out a quantity of the
best plants from the seed-bed, and plant them into the above, at
about three inches distance; or you may prick some of the earliest
into a moderate hot-bed, to forward them; give a gentle watering,
and repeat it occasionally till the plants have taken fresh root.

They should remain in these beds a month or five weeks, to get
strength before they are planted out finally into the trenches.

As these early-sown plants, after they become fit for use, will
not continue long before they run up for seed, there should not be
more of them raised or planted out, than are necessary for an early
supply.

Sow some celery-seed in the first or second week of this month,
to raise plants for a general cro/i, and to succeed those which were
sown in March.

Dig for this purpose, a bed of rich light earth, and make the sur-
face even; sow the seed thereon tolerably thick, and rake it in
lightly; in dry weather give frequent moderate watering, both be-

2 S

322 THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [April-

fore and after the plants come up, which, being very essential,
should not be omitted.

The best kinds to sow, are the solid, and red stalked celery, both
of which are very fine, and blanch delightfully.

Those who have not the convenience of a hot-bed, to raise early
plants, and wish to have celery as soon as possible, will find the
following method, of some importance. Make choice of a piece
of very rich, light loam, that lies well to the sun; give it a good
coat of manure, and dig it carefully in, one spade deep at least;
then at the distance of four feet, form trenches, north and south,
about ten inches deep, eight wide at bottom, and the edges sloping
outward regularly, towards the centre of the ridges, formed by the
earth, thrown up, the better to admit the sun to the seeds and
plants; in the bottom of these trenches, lay three inches of very old-
horse dung; cast over this, the same depth of earth, and with your
spade, dig and incorporate both well together; cover the whole
with mould previously made fine with the rake, and draw a shallow
drill with your finger, in the centre of each trench, not more than
a quarter of an inch deep; in which sow your seed very thin, and
draw the earth lightly over it, just to cover the seed and no more.
This should be done as early in this, or the preceding month, as
the ground can be got to work freely.

When the plants are up, they must be kept free from weeds, and
when grown a couple of inches, thinned to the distance of five from
one another, always leaving the strongest and most promising.

When about eight inches high, draw to their roots on each side,
three inches deep of mould, and let them grow on, till of sufficient
size, to earth them up for blanching; then they are to be earthed
in the general way. Plants thus treated, will arrive at perfection
three weeks earlier, than those managed in the common method.

*is2}aragus.

The forking, dressing, sowing, and planting of asparagus, if not
done last month, should be performed the first week in this, parti-
cularly, the forking and dressing; for the shoots will be advancing
rapidly, and if not done in time, they will be greatly injured, either
by omitting it altogether, or performing it, at an untimely season.
New plantations ought to be made, in the early part of the month;
the seed may be sown at any time therein, but the earlier the bet-
ter. For the methods of doing the whole, see pages 192, 193, and
194.

Sowing Beet Seed.

Beets of every kind may now be sown, with good success. For the
kinds, and methods of sowing them, see page 195.

Sowing Onion and Leek Seed.

Onion seed, if sown in the first week of this month, agreeably to
the directions given in page 195, will arrive at a tolerable size for-

April.] THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. 323

use, the same season; but if sown for the purpose of raising seed
onions, or small bulbs, for planting next year, the middle of the
month will be the proper time, or even towards the latter end.
Seeds for the latter purpose, should be sown pretty thick, and in
poor gravelly ground; otherwise, they will grow too large, or run to
tops and not bulb well.

You may now sow a principal crop of leeks, either in drills, or as
directed for onions in page 195; if in drills, they may be landed, as
you do celery, when arrived at full size; or if in beds, they should
be transplanted, in June or July, as then directed.

Planting Seed Onions.

All your seed onions ought to be planted, if not done in the pre-
ceding months, as early in this as possible; for they never succeed
so well, as by early planting. See page 197.

Garlick, Rocombole, Shallots and Chives.

These useful culinary and medicinal plants, if not attended to in
the former months, should now be planted as early as possible,
and as directed in page 198.

Turneps.

You may sow any time this month, a full summer crop, of the
early Dutch, early stone, or early green turneps; they will suc-
ceed very well, and being of a quick growth, will arrive at good
perfection, before they are overtaken by the violent summer heats.

Sow the seeds in open quarters or beds, after the ground has
been well dug and sufficiently manured, tolerably thin, and as even-
ly as possible; if the ground is dry, tread down the seed regularly,
and rake it in with a light and even hand.

Hoe and thin the turneps, which were sown last month, leaving
the plants six, seven, or eight inches distant from each other, ac-
cording to the richness of the soil.

Salsafy.

Salsafy, or Trago/iogon iiorrifolium^ is a plant by some highly
valued, for its white eatable root, which grows a foot or more long,
and in shape, like a carrot or parsnep. Some have carried their
fondness for it so far, as to call it a vegetable oyster. Its method
of cultivation, &c. you will find in page 198: the seed may be sown
Avith good success, any time this month.

Scorzonera, or Viper's- Grass.

There are nineteen species of scorzonera described; but the
Scorzonera hispatnca is that, principally, cultivated in gardens, for
its roots; which, if sown in this month, in drills, and covered about

324 '^HE KITCHEN-GARDEN. April.

half an inch deep, will produce fine eatable roots, for autumn and
winter use; they are boiled and eaten like carrots, &c. and are
greatly esteemed by many. When the plants are up, they must
be thinned, to five or six inches apart, and be kept perfectly free
from weeds. They may also be sown broad cast, in three or four
feet wide beds, and, when up, thin them to six or seven inches dis-
tance every way.

Skirret.

The Sium Sisarum, or skirret, is greatly esteemed as a garden
vegetable; its root is composed of several fleshy tubers, as large as a
man's finger, and joining together at top. They are eaten boiled, and
slewed with butter, pepper and salt; or rolled in flour and fried; or
eise cold with oil and vinegar, being first boiled. They have much
of the taste and flavour of a parsnep, but a great deal more palat-
able.

This plant is cultivated two ways, first by seed, and second by
slips from the roots: the former method I think the more eligible,
because the roots which are raised from seeds, generally grow
larger than those raised by slips, and are less subject to be
sticky.

The seeds should be sown the latter end of March, or in the be-
ginning of this month, either broad-cast, or in drills; the ground
should be light and moist, for in dry land the roots are generally
small, unless the season proves wet.

The seeds may be sown broad-cast, or in drills, and covered
half an inch deep; they will rise in five or six weeks, when they
must be carefully wed, and thinned to the distance of six inches
asunder In autumn, when the leaves begin to decay, the roots
will be fit for use, and continue so, till they begin to shoot in the
spring. They may be taken up on the approach of winter, and pre-
served like carrots.

To propagate this plant by offsets, dig up the old roots in spring,
before they begin to shoot and slip off the side shoots, preserving
an eye or bud to each: plant them in rows one foot asunder, and
six inches distant in the rows, and in autumn, they will be fit for
use. as before. Or, you may separate the roots, that you have pre-
served all winter, and plant them in the same manner.

Sowing Common, and Large-rooted or Hamburg Parsley.

Sow a full crop, of the common, and curled parsley; and also of
the large rooted parsley, as directed last month, in page 199.

Sea Kale.

If you have yet omitted sowing the Crambe maritima, or Sea
Kale, it may be sown the beginning of this month. For its gene-
i'al culture see page 199, 8cc.

April.] THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. 325

Coriander and Chervil*

Coriander and chervil, may yet be sown, as directed in page 199,
•which see. The latter particularly, is by many, esteemed in sallads
and soups.

Dressing, Planting, and Sowing Artichokes.

In the early part of this month, if omitted in the last, you may
give a spring dressing to your artichokes, and it will be a very pro-
per time to make new^ plantations, of that delicious vegetable, or to
sow the seed of it. For full instructions, as to the performance of
all the above, see pages 203, 204, 8cc.

Cardoons and Alexanders.

Cardoons and Alexanders may yet be sown, as directed for the
former, in page 205, and for the latter, in page 206. For their fur-
ther culture, see June and July.

Propagating various Pot and Medicinal Herbs.

For the various kinds, of pot and medicinal herbs and the diffei'-
ent methods of propagating them, either of whicii, will answer ex-
tremely well in this month, but more particularly that of sowing the
seeds, see page 206, Sec.

Dill, and Jlzorian Fennel.

For an account of, and the method of propagating Dill and Fino-
chio, or Azorian Fennel, see page 207.

Horse-Radish.

Horse-Radish may now be planted, with good success, but the
earlier in the month that it is done, the better. For the method of
propagating it, see page 209.

Rhuharh.

For the general culture of rhubarb, see page 211, The seed, if
neglected to be sown in the former months, will still succeed, by
sowing it in the early part of this; but the plants from late sowings
particularly, will require to be shaded, when up, from too powerful
sun-shine, till they have attained strength.

In the first week of this month, it may be successfully propagat-
ed, by offsets from the root.

326 THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [April.

Jerusalem Artichoke.

Jerusalem Artichokes may still be cultivated; as directed last
month, in page 2 1 3.

Potatoes.

If omitted in the last month, plant potatoes in the beginning of
this, as directed in page 208.

J\*asturtium.

The Troficeolum tnajus, or large Nasturtium, is very deserving of
cultivation, as well on account of the beauty of its large and nume-
rous orange-coloured flowers, as their excellence in sallads, and
their use in garnishing dishes. The green berries, or seeds, of
this plant, which it produces abundantly, make one of the nicest
pickles that can possibly be conceived; in the estimation of many,
they are superior to capers.

There are, of the nasturtium, a major and minor kind; the for-
mer, being of a large running growth, and the most productive, is
the proper sort for the above purposes.

A drill may be drawn for them, as practised for peas, and the
seeds dropped therein, at the distance of two or three inches from
one another, and covered with earth near an inch deep. When the
plants are grown about six inches, they should have sticks placed
to them to run upon. Or they may be sown near hedges, fences,
or pailings of any kind, on which they can climb, and have support;
for they will always be more productive in this way, than when
suffered to trail on the ground.

Liquorice.

The early part of this month, is a very good season, in the
middle states, for planting liquorice. For its general culture, see
page 209, &:c.

Solving Okra.

The Hibiscus esculenta^ or Okra. The green capsules of this
plant, is an admirable ingredient in soups, and its ripe seeds, if
burned and ground like coffee, can scarcely be distinguished there-
from. Numbers cultivate it for that purpose, and even say, that it
is much superior to foreign coffee, particularly, as it does not affect
the nervous system, like the latter.

Between the middle or latter end of this month, is a proper time
to sow the seed, in the middle states; and in the eastern states, the
early part of May; or generally, it may be sown, with certainty
of success, at the time that Indian corn is planted. Draw drills
about an inch deep, and four feet asunder, into which, drop the
seeds at the distance of eight inches from one another, or rather,
drop two or three in each place, lest the one should not grow, and
cover them near an inch in depth. As they advance in growth, earth

April.] THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. 327

them up, two or three times, as you do peas, and they will produce
abundantly. Some plant or sow them much thinner, in the rows;
but by the above method, you will have, more in quantity, and as
good in quality.

Capsicums or Red-Peppers.

Sow capsicums, towards the end of this month, on a warm bor-
der, to produce plants, for planting out towards the latter end of
May, or beginning of June; the large heart-shaped capsicum, is
in the greatest estimation for pickling, but the small upright kinds,
are the strongest for pepper: if they are desired at an early sea-
son, sow them on a slight hot-bed, the beginning of this month, and
with due care they will be fit to transplant, where they are to re-
main, towards the middle of May. In the eastern states, the tenth
of May will be soon enough to sow them, in the open ground, but
in the southern states, they may be sown any time this month.

Tomatoes or Love-Jlpples.

•The Solanum Lycoftersicum, Tomato, or Love-apple, is much eul-
tivated for its fruit, in soups and sauces, to which it imparts an
agreeable acid flavour; and is also stewed and dressed in various
ways, and very much admired.

The seeds may, towards the latter end of this month, be sown
on a warm border, pretty thick, and about the end of May will be
fit to plant out; or they may be sown where intended to remain for
fruiting. They will require such support as directed for Nastur-
tiums, in page 326, and must be planted in rows, five feet asunder,
and a foot or fourteen inches distant, plant from plant, as they run
greatly. Some lay various kinds of old branches in their way, for
them to run upon; however, the better they are supported, the
more numerous will their fruit be.

This fruit may be had much earlier, by sowing the seeds, in the
first week of this month, if not done in March, on a slight hot-bed,
and forwarding them in that way; they bear transplanting well, and
may be set out finally about the middle of May.

Egg-Plant.

The Solanum Melongena, or Egg-plant. There are two varieties
of this plant, the white fruited and the purple, cultivated for culinary
purposes; the latter kind is preferable, and when sliced and nicely
fried, approaches, both in taste and flavour, nearer to that of a very
nice fried oyster, than, perhaps, any other plant.

This delicious vegetable may be propagated, by sowing the seed,
on a slight hot-bed, the beginning of this month, or in March; and
towards the middle or latter part of May, they should be planted
in a rich warm piece of ground, at the distance of two feet and a
half asunder, every way, for the purple, or two feet, for the white
kind; and if kept clean, and a little earth drawn up to their stems,

328 'fHE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [Apuil.

when about a foot high, they will produce plenty of fruit. Or, the
seed may be sown about the end of this month, on a warm border,
and planted out finally, in the beginning of June; but these will be
rather late, and not produce fruit so abundantly, in the middle or
eastern states, as by the former method. If any were sown last
month, let them be pricked out into a fresh hot-bed, the middle of
this, at the distance of four or five inches, to gather strength, and
prepare them for planting out, about the fifteenth or twentieth of
May.

Sowing Cucumber, Squashes, Musk and Water Melons.

In the middle states where the ground is light, dry, and warm,
you may in the last week of this month sow cucumbers, squashes,
water-melons, and early musk-melons in the open ground, agreea-
bly to the directions given next month. If the weather proves fa-
vourable, and that they are not attacked by frost after being up,
they will succeed very well; but if you have hand or bell glasses for
their protection, there is no doubt of their success.

It is generally observed, that cucumbers, squashes, and melons
of every kind, may be sown in the open ground, as early as Indian
corn; but they are certainly somewhat more tender, and cannot be
sown in the middle states, with great certainty of success, before
the eighth of May.

Kidney-Beans.

Towards the latter end of this month, you may plant a first crop
of Kidney-beans, in the open ground. Select a warm, dry, and
favourably situated spot, and having dug and manured it properly,
draw drills an inch deep, and two feet or thirty inches asunder; drop
the beans therein, two inches apart, and draw the earth equally over
them; do not cover them more than an inch deep; for, at this early
time, they are liable to rot, if cold or wet ensue. The kinds pro-
per to be sown now, are the early cream-coloured, speckled, yellow,
and white dwarfs.

Endive.

Those who are fond of endive, as a sallad, may now sow some of
the seed, as directed in June; and blanch it, when of sufficient size,
in the manner prescribed in August. But in the early summer
months, lettuce has almost generally superseded the use of it.

Sorrel.

Sow now a sufRcient supply of the broad-leaved, garden sorrel,
and also, of the round-leaved or French sorrel; these, or either ot
them, may be sown, on narrow beds or borders, andcovered lightly,
or raked in; when the plants are up keep them free from weeds,
and in June, you may transplant them, either in rows along the
borders, or into three or four feet wide beds, at the distance of nine
inches, plant from plant, every way.

April.] THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. 329

Garden Orache.

The AtrifUex hortensis^ or Garden Orache, is cultivated for culi-
nary purposes, being used as spinach, and is by some persons pre-
ferred to it. The French particularly, are very partial to this plant.
There are three or four varieties of it, differing only in colour;
one is of a deep green, another of a dark purple, and a third with
green leaves and purple borders. The green leaved variety, how-
ever, is that cultivated, as an esculent herb, and is sown at the same
time, and treated in every respect like spinach.

Caraway.

The Carum Carui, or common caraway, is a biennial plant:
it produces its seed, which is highly aromatic and grateful to the
stomach, the second year after sowing, and then generally dies.
It may now be sown on a bed, either broadcast and raked in, or in
drills, and covered half an inch deep; when up, thin the plants to six
inches distance, and in the June twelve months following, it will
produce its seed. Some of the plants that have not seeded abun-
dantly, will continue to bear the second season. Young plants,
rise in abundance, where the seeds fall when ripe, and these will
shoot and produce seed the following summer.

Destroy Weeds.

Weeds will now begin to appear plentifully, from seed, in every
part of the garden. The utmost diligence should be used to de-
stroy them, while they are young, before they get the start of the
crops; especially towards the middle and latter end of the month;
when, if a forward season, they will be advancing in a rapid growth.

Pay particular regard, at this time, to your small crops; as
onions, carrots, parsneps, and the like; weeds grow much quicker
than they do; and if they are not wed in time, either by small hoe-
ing, or hand-weeding, such will occasion much labour and trouble
to clear them, and sometimes totally destroy the crops.

Take the opportunity of dry weather, and hoe the ground be-
tween the rows of beans, peas, cabbages, cauliflowers, and other
crops that stand wide, to destroy the weeds.

A large piece of ground may soon be gone over with a hoe,
when the weeds are small; but when they are permitted to grow
large, it requires double labour to destroy them.

Madder.

The Rubia tinctorutn, or dyer's madder, being an article of much
importance in manufactures, &c. ought to command some atten-
tion, in the United States; where it will grow to as good perfec-
tion, as in any country on earth. It is not wise, in a nation, to be
under the necessity of importing articles of considerable consump-

2 T

330 THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [April.

tion, that might be cultivated at home, to great advantage; and al-
though, it does not immediately come within the province of the
gardener, I cannot let slip the opportunity of giving the best infor-
mation in my povi^er, for bringing it to perfection.

The plant has a perennial root, and an annual stalk. The root
is composed of many long thick succulent fibres; these are joined
at the top in a head, like the roots of asparagus, and strike very-
deep into the ground, being sometimes more than three feet in
length. From the upper part, or head of the root, come out many
side roots, which extend just under the surface of the ground, to a
great distance, whereby it propagates very fast; for these send up
a great number of shoots, which if carefully taken off in spring,
soon after they are above ground, and managed as hereafter direct-
ed, they become so many plants. These roots are of a dark colour
on their out-side, and have a yellowish red pith in the middle, which
is tough and of a bitterish taste; from the root arises many large,
four-cornered, jointed stalks, which in good land, will grow five or
six feet high, and if supported, sometimes seven or eight; they
are armed with short herbaceous prickles, and at each joint, are
placed five or six spear-shaped leaves, about three inches long, and
near one broad, in the middle, drawing to a point at each end; their
upper surfaces are smooth, but their mid-ribs, on the under side,
are armed with rough herbaceous spines; the leaves set close to
the branches in whorls. From the joints of the stalk come out the
branches, which sustain the flowers; they are placed by pairs op-
posite, each pair crossing the other; these have few but small
leaves towards the bottom, which are generally by threes, and
upwards by pairs opposite; the branches are terminated, by branch-
ing spikes of campanulate yellow flowers, which are cut into four
segments, These appear in June, and are followed by roundish,
dark coloured seeds, compressed and indented on the side, where
joined to the pedicle, or partial flower-stalk, and are about the size
of asparagus seed.

I am the more particular in the description, as there are seven
different species of Rubia or madder; lest the wrong kind should
be cultivated, and produce a discouraging disappointment, to the
industrious and deserving cultivator.

It is well known that Madder is so essential to dyers and calico-
printers, that neither business can be canned on without it. The
consumption of it is so great in England, that, upon a moderate
computation, more than one hundred and eighty thousand pounds
sterling, is annually paid for what is imported from Holland, exclu-
sive of their supplies from other parts; and as in a little time, manu-
factures of these kinds, must of necessity, progress in America, the
sooner some attention is paid to this article, the better. The profits
arising from its culture, would at present, be very considerable, per-
haps rtiore so, than when more generally attended to. *

The land best adapted for the culture of Madder, is a deep loamy
substantial soil, not too stiff and heavy, nor overly light and sandy;
this should be twice ploughed in autumn, and left rough during win-
ter, that the frost may mellow and pulverize it; then ploughed again in

April.] THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. 33 i

April, immediately before planting, taking care every tittie, to plough
il as deep as possible.

The time of planting is about the latter end of April, or immedi-
ately when the young buds begin to appear above ground, or as
soon as possible after. The young shoots are then taken from the
sides of the mother plants, with as much root as possible, and are
planted in rows three feet asunder, and, plant from plant, in the rows
twelve inches distant; observing to plant each slip down to its top or
crown.

In the first year of planting madder, it is customary to plant kid-
ney-beans, lettuces, or other low dwarf-growing crops, between the
rows; but it is absolutely necessary, to keep the ground clean from
weeds. In November the haulm being decayed, cut it off, and then
draw three or four inches of earth over the crowns of the plants;
this may be performed either with the plough or hoe, and let them
remain so all winter.

The second year in the beginning of April, the earth on the top
of the rows should be scuffled over and raked, to destroy the young
weeds, and make the surface smooth and mellow; as well as to per-
mit the rising buds to shoot freely.

The second summer, the same care must be taken of the nmd-
der as the first, and nothing planted between the rows; and in No-
vember, the crowns of the roots are to be covered as in the pre-
ceding year. Some lay down the haulm, and cover it with earth,
for the greater protection of the roots; but this is a very pernicious
practice, for it, in a little time, becomes mouldy, and seldom fails
to communicate this to the crowns, which materially injures them,
and, consequently, the whole roots.

The madder roots should never be taken up, till they have had,
three summers' growth; and the culture of the third, is the same
as of the second year, during the spring, summer, and autumn.

In the September, or October of the third year, when the haulm
is perfectly decayed, the roots are carefully taken up, and dried,
first for a few days in the air; they are afterwards put on a kiln,
and dried effectually with a slow heat; after which, it is pounded
by stampers, kept in motion by a mill or wheel, which is turned,
by either water, wind, or horses, then sifted and packed up in
casks, as hard as possible.

Madder may be cultivated from seeds by sowing them in rows,
as directed for the plants; observing to sow three or four seeds,
where a plant might be expected, and cover them a little better
than half an inch deep: when grown in inch or two, pull out the
weakest, and leave the best to remain, at proper distances, for full
growth.

Those who are desirous of further information, on this subject,
may consult Martyn's edition of Miller's Gardener's Dictionary.

Fuller's Teasel.

The Dipsacus fullonum^ or Fuller's Teasel, is cultivated in great
quantities in the west of England, for raising the nap on woollen

332 THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [April.

cloths, by means of the crooked awns upon the heads; which in the
wild sort, are not sufficiently hooked. For this purpose they are
fixed round the circumference of a large broad wheel, which is
made to turn round, and the cloth is held against them. The heads
are collected in August, as soon as they begin to turn brown, and
exposed daily to the sun, till they become perfectly dry; care being
taken to protect them from rain.

This plant is propagated by sowing the seed, either in March or
April, upon a soil that has been well ploughed, and it is observed,
that good wheat land, is well adapted for the production of Teasels.
The ground being ploughed and made fine, from one peck to two of
seed, is generally sown upon an acre, and harrowed in, with a light
harrovv. When the plants are up, hoe them in the same manner,
as practised for turneps, cutting down all the weeds and singling
out the plants, to about six or eight inches distance: as they
advance, and the weeds begin to grow again, hoe them a second
time, cutting out the plants to about a foot asunder. Keep them
free from weeds during the summer and autumn, and the second
year after sowing, the plants will shoot up stalks with heads, which
will be fit for collecting, about the time before mentioned; observ-
ing, that they are to be collected as they turn brown and ripen, and
not all at once.

They may also be cultivated by sowing the seeds, in April, in a
seed-bed pretty thick, where they are to be kept free from weeds,
and in the September or March following, planted into the ploughed
field, being previously well harrowed and prepared; where they are
to be set regularly in lines, at about a foot asunder every way.
Soon after, they will shoot up, and, the autumn following, produce
their heads. This article is indispensable, where manufactories of
cloth are carried on.

Woad, Weld, or Dyer's Weed.

The Reseda Luteola, or Oyer's-weed, is used for dyeing all sorts
of bright yellows and lemon colours; and is a profitable article to
cultivate for the use of dyers. Its favourite soil is a tolerably rich,
sandy ground, where it will grow to great perfection. The seed
should be sown in April, at the rate of two quarts to an acre; when
the plants are up, they must be set out with the hoe, like turneps,
to the distance of six inches, plant from plant, and kept free from
■weeds during the season. The May following they will shoot, and,
if the soil be good, grow three feet high, and in June, w/ien in full
^ower, the plants are to be pulled up, and set in small handfuls to dry
in the field: when dry enough, they may be tied in bundles and
housed, being careful to put them up loosely, that the air may pass
between, to prevent fermentation. A small patch may be left for
seed, which is not to be pulled up till perfecly ripe. Some people
sow weld, with oats, and barley, as they do clover seed; and after
these crops are off, weed them as well as possible, suffering no cat-
tle to enter the field, till the June twelve months after sowing, when
the weld is pulled and dried as before.

Apuil-J 333

THE FRUIT-GARDEN.

Plantins: Fruit-Trees.

Such fruit-trees as are not yet burst into leaf, may be trans-
planted in the early part of the month; but any that are either in
leaf or flower, will suffer considerably by such unseasonable remo-
val. However, when late planting, is from some cause unavoidable,
and having a previous knowledge thereof, it would in that case,
be highly proper to take up the trees, some time before, to check
their shooting, and lay them by the roots in a trench of earth, till
they can be planted.

Where such planting is intended, in the middle states, let it be
done in the first week in the month, but in the eastern states, it
may be conliiuied to the second; particularly, with apples, pears,
and plums, and even many other kinds, should the season prove late.

After planting, give each tree a plentiful watering, which will
cause the earth to settle close about its roots, and prepare them for
pushing fresh fibres: repeat it, once every week or ten days, till
the new roots are established. For the method of planting, see the
Fruit -Garden^ and Orchard in March.

New planted trees in general, but particularly such as are planted
late in the spring, should be frequently watered in dry weather;
once a week or ten days, will be sufficient. In doing this, give
a copious watering to reach the roots effectually: and let their heads
be sometimes watered as well as their roots.

To preserve the earth moist about the roots of new planted treesj
let some mulch or half rotted litter, be spread on the surface of the
ground; this will keep out the effects of sun and wind, and the earth
will retain a due moisture, with the assistance of a moderate water-
ing now and then.

Destroy insects on Fruit Trees.

Insects often do much damage to fruit-trees, if not prevented.
This is the time they begin to breed on the buds, leaves, and new-
advancing shoots of young trees, and also frequently on those of
older growth. Proper means should be used to destroy them in time,
before they spread over the general branches.

Where you perceive any of the leaves of these trees to have a
crumpled, deformed, clammy appearance, &c. it is a certain sign of
insects. Let the worst of these leaves be taken off as soon as they
appear: and if the ends of any of the young shoots are also attack-
ed, prune away such infected parts: and if furnished with a garden
watering engine, it would be greatly serviceable therewith to dash
the branches with water in dry weather; which, and the above pre-
cautions, if proceeded to in time, will do a great deal in preventing
the mischief from spreading considerably.

334 '^HE FRUIT-GARDEN. [April

Or where wall trees are much infested, first pull off all the curled
or crumpled leaves; then get some tobacco-dust, or fine snuff, and
scatter some of it over all the branches, but most on those places
•where the insects are troublesome. This should be strewed over
the trees in the morning, when the twigs and leaves are wet, and
let it remain. It will greatly diminish the vermin, and not injure the
leaves or fruit.

But fruit trees are also sometimes attacked by insects of the cater-
pillar tribe, contained numerously in a minute embryo state in small
webs, deposited on the branches, Sec. animated by the heat of the
weather, they soon over-run and devour the young leaves, whereby
neither the trees nor fruit prosper in growth; and which should be
attended to, especially in young trees, by picking off the webs, &c.
before the insects animate considerably; and, if accommodated with
a watering engine, as above suggested, you might play the water
strongly upon the trees; so as in the whole, to diminish the in-
crease and spreading depredations of the vermin, as much as pos-
sible.

Pruning.

Pruning of all kinds of fruit-trees, should be finished, in the first
week of this month, if neglected so long, especially, the forward
blossoming kinds. See page 214.

Protecting the blossoms, Sfc. of fVall-Trees from frost.

Your early kinds of fruit-trees, particularly those planted against
walls, may in forward seasons, require protection for their blossoms
and young setting fruit, from night frosts; the doing of which, will
be found of importance. For the method, see page 220.

Where the sheltering of these trees is practised, it should be
continued occasionally all this month; for although there are ge-
nerally, some fine warm days and nights, yet the weather is so very
uncertain at this season, that we often have such severe hard frosts,
as to prove the destruction of the blossoms and young fruit, on such
of the above trees, as are very forward and fully exposed.

They may be protected with mats every cold night, and taken
down in the morning: if cuttings of evergreens are used, as ad-
vised last month, let them remain constantly, till the fruit are past
danger.

General Spring treatment of Fruit-Trees.

For the general spring management of Fruit-trees, see the Fruit'
Garden and Orchard last month.

Crrafting.

For the various methods of grafting, &c. sec the J^ursery for last
month, and also for this.

April.] THE ORCHARD. 335

Raspberries.

New plantations of raspberries may be made in the first week of
this month, but it would have been much better, if that business had
been performed in the last, except in the eastern states; where it
may now be done, with good success, as directed in page 222,
which see.

Strawberry Beds.

Sti'awberry beds should now be kept perfectly free from weeds.
The runners produced from the plants should be constantly clear-
ed away as they advance. But where new plantations are wanted, let
some of the strongest remain till June, to form young plants, then
to be transplanted, as directed in that month.

Water the beds of fruiting plants frequently, in dry weather,
when they begin to advance for bloom; for, if they are not supplied
with that article, in a dry time, the fruit will be smaller, and of less
abundant production; observing, to give the water between the
plants, and not over them. New plantations may be made, in the
first week of this month. For the method, see page 223.

Early Fruits in forcing.

Let the same care be taken of the early fruits of all kinds now in
forcing, as directed last month and February; but be very particular'
to give air in proportion to the increasing heat of the weather.

THE ORCHARD.

The Orchard has been so fully treated of in the last month,
beginning at page 224, as well as in January and February, that
there is little to be said, respecting it, in this; except to advise the
completion of all that was directed to be done, in the former, as
early in this, as possible. Late planting of deciduous trees, whe-
ther fruit or forest, seldom succeeds well, especially in warm cli-
mates; and to ensure the best possible success, every thing should
be attended to, in due season, but more particularly planting; for
"time waits for no body." Apples and pears however, may be
planted, with tolerable success, in the middle states, but more par-
ticularly in a backward season, any time before the middle of April;
though it is necessity alone, that could warrant their removal, at so
late a period.

Let it be observed as a general rule, always to plant or transplant
your fruit-trees, before a leaf expands or a blossom appears: it is
true, that some plant later, but never with equal success.

336 THE VINEYARD. [April.

The grafting of various kinds of fruit-irees, may be performed in
the early part of tliis month, as directed in the J^ursery^ for March,
Dasre 249, &c.

page 249, &c.

THE VINEYARD.

Vine cuttin^gs preserved since the time of pruning, as direct-
ed in page 247, may yet be planted in the method pointed out, in
page 248; and all the other work directed to be done in the Vine-
yard, in March, should now be finished as early as possible. Rooted
plants may also be planted out into rows, at proper distances, but the
earlier in the month, the better. ^^4-

If neglected last month, you must early in thUj before the buds
begin to shoot, either plough, dig, or deeply hoe, the ground between
the vines. This is indispensable: the surface must always be kept
loose, clean, and free fiom weeds, or the consequence will be, the
having of few fruit, and these of a bad and insipid quality. Keep-
ing the earth loose and pulverized by frequent working, will cause
it to attract the dews, imbibe the rains freely, when such occur,
and consequently, to be constantly stored with a sufficient supply
of nourishment, for the plants and fruit; and moreover, the reflec-
tion of the sun, from the clean surface, will dry and dissipate the
damps, that would otherwise cause the fruit to become mildewed,
and render their quality crude and insipid.

In looking over the vines about the end of the month, observe
to displace such young shoots or prominent buds, as appear use-
less, or promise to be injurious to those intended for bearing fruit.
Many small weakly shoots, generally, arise from the old stocks or
branches, that seldom produce fruit, and are supernumerary; such
should be rubbed off close, except in places where a supply of new
wood or shoots for next year's bearing are wanted; in which case,
a suitable number should be carefully preserved. This operation
ought, at this time, to be performed with the finger and thumb,
nipping or rubbing them off, close to where produced.

Where two shoots arise from one bud, take the worst away, the
remaining one will grow stronger, and its fruit be numerous and
large in proportion.

The vines should now have stakes placed to them, such as are
directed to be made in page 48, and any old or decayed poles, re-
placed with new, if not done in the former months; in order to tie
and train the young advancing shoots thereto.

Any very long shoots of the last year, left upon strong and estab-
lished stocks, for fruiting more abuuciuntly, as directed in page 148,
may about the first of this month, when the sap has arisen, and the
shoots become pliant, be bent round the stake, in the iorm of a
hoop, and made fast thereto with a willow twig, &c. by this method it

A^RiL.] THE NURSERY. 337

will bi-eak out into fruit more abundantly, and produce a less luxu-
riancy of wood, than if left in the ordinary way; but it must be bent
gently, so as not to crack the bark, lest it should bleed and be weak-
ened thereby, or become totally abortive.

THE NURSERY.

As it is my plan to avoid repetitions as much as possible, in
order to make room for more important matter; and having gone
pretty extensively into the Nursery business in March, I must re-
fer you to that month, for general instructions respecting the cul-
ture of trees and shrubs. You will there find the various methods,
and proper periods for grafting; the modes of raising, planting, and
training all sorts of live hedges; the different ways of cultivating
various kinds of shrubby plants, forest and fruit-trees, by layers,
suckers, cuttings, and seeds, &c. a repetition of which, in this place
would only swell the book to no purpose.

Let it, however, be observed, that the sowing of all kinds of tree
and shrub seeds (except those that have had a year's previous pre-
paration,) and also grafting, may successfully be practised in the
middle states, in the early part of this month, and in the eastern
states, till near the latter end thereof; and that the earlier in the
month such can be done, provided the ground is in good condition,
and the weather favourable, the better. Propagation by layers,
suckers, and cuttings, may also be practised in the early part of this
month, both in the middle and eastern states, and indeed, in the
latter, it is the most eligible season for the performance of that
work.

Transplanting.

All hardy evergreen trees and shrubs, seedling and others, may
be taken up and transplanted, in the first week of this month, (ear-
lier in the southern states, and not much later in the eastern,) with
great certainty of success.

Pines and firs of all kinds, may now be removed. Likewise
cedars, junipers, Kalmias and Rhododendrons; Pyracanthas, hol-
lies, evergreen oaks, and Yews; and also, alaternuses, phillyreas,
arbor-vitaes, and evergreen privet, with many others.

The seedlings are to be planted as directed in March; the others,
as in page 301, and immediately after, they should have a good wa-
tering, to settle the earth about their roots. Likewise, any decidu-
ous shrubs and trees of the late shooting kinds, may yet be trans-
planted, if done early in the month.

2 U

338 THE NURSERY. [Apkii..

€are of new planted Trees and Shrubs.

Water the new plantations of evergreens and flowering shrubs,
&c. but in particular those which were lately planted out from the
seed beds. Three times a week will be sufficient for these; and
for those deciduous kinds that have been transplanted in autumn or
early in spring, once a week will do; always observing, during this
month, to give the water very early in the morning.

J^ew Grafted Trees.

Examine the new grafted trees; the clay is sometimes apt to fall
off, or crack, so as to admit air and wet, to the grafts.

When that is the case, the old clay must be taken entirely off,
and immediately apply some more, that is fresh and well wrought:
let this be closed in every part, so that neither air nor wet can enter.

Where there are any shoots produced from the stocks below the
grafts, rub them off close; for these, if permitted to grow, would
starve the young shoots: be careful also, to eradicate all root suckers.

Budded Trees.

Budded trees should also be looked over about this time; for
those that were worked last summer, will now be making their first
shoots, and therefore demand some attention.

The first shoots from the inoculated buds are, in some seasons,
apt to be attacked by insects or blights; and these, if not prevented,
will injure them greatly, and sometimes entirely spoil them; but
by timely attention, it may be, in a great measure, prevented:
where the ends of the young shoots appear crumpled, and the
leaves curled, l«t them be carefully taken off, for they are full of
small insects. By this practice the vermin may be prevented from
spreading farther.

Likewise observe, that all shoots which put out from the stock,
except the proper inserted bud, must be rubbed off constantly, as
they are produced, that its whole efforts may go to the support of
the bud-shpots only.

The Management of Seed-beds.

Water occasionally the seed-beds of all kinds of trees and shrubs
in dry weather: this must be practised both before and after the
plants begin to appear.

Observe at all times to water these beds with moderation; a lit-
tle and often must be the rule. Likewise be very careful not to
apply the water over hastily at any time, for that would be apt to
wash the earth away from the seed, and also from the young plants,
now beginning to come up: be particularly careful as to the
more tender and delicate sorts: generally let the refreshments of
water be repeated moderately once every two days, in warm dry

i

April.] THE NURSERY. 3g9

weather; which will be of great service to all kinds of seedling
plants.

Shade will also prove very beneficial in the middle of hot sunny
days, to many of the choice kinds of seedling-trees and shrubs, about
the time of their first appearing, and for some time after.

These young plants may be shaded from the sun occasionally,
by fixing hoops across the beds; then let mats, canvas, or the like,
be drawn over the hoops as often as occasion requires.

Where there are boxes, pots, or tubs of seedling plants, let them
be placed in a shady situation, about the middle, or towards the
latter end of this month, where they may have the morning and af-
ternoon sun only; carefully protecting them from its mid-day in-
fluence.

All beds of seedling trees and shrubs whatever, must be kept
perfectly clean from weeds. This should be carefully attended to,
for the weeds are of much quicker growth than the young seedling
plants, and would soon get the start of them, if permitted to stand.
Therefore, let such, as soon as they appear in the beds, be pricked
out, before they get to any great head, performing it by a very care-
ful hand-weeding.

Hoeing and Weeding.

Hoe and destroy weeds between the rows of young trees; they
will now rise abundantly from seeds; but by applying the hoe to
them while young, they may be very expeditiously destroyed.
Choose dry weather, let the hoe be sharp, take advantage of the
weeds while they are small, and cut them up clean within the
ground.

There is nothing like destroying weeds in due time; for when
they are suffered to grow large, they are extremely hurtful to all
young trees and shrubs, and in particular to those plants which are
not far advanced in their growth; besides, if suffered to ripen and
shed their seeds, these lay the foundation of a world of trouble af-
terwards, which might be avoided, by timely exertions and care.

Grafting Hollies, Sfc.

Graft hollies, with cuttings of the variegated kinds. The first
fortnight in this month, is the proper time to perform that work, in
the middle states.

The common green holly is the proper stock to graft the varie-
gated kinds upon: and the stocks for this purpose must not be less
than three or four year's growth from the seed; but those of five
or six answer perfectly well.

Get some cuttings, or grafts, of the best variegated kinds; they
must be shoots of the last summer's growth. Let them be grafted
with exactness, according to the general method of whip-grafting.
See page 253.

Likewise, graft any other curious varieties of trees, on stocks of
their own kinds.

340 1'HE PLEASURE, OR [April.

But in most fruit-trees and other deciduous kinds, where any
grafting remains to be done, no time should be omitted in forward-
ing it early in the month.

Inarching.

Inarching may be performed now, on ever-greens, and on any
kinds of trees or shrubs, that you desire to propagate that way.

This method of grafting is principally intended for those kinds,
which are not easily raised by common grafting or budding; or by
seeds, layers, or cuttings, or any of the other general methods.

The ever-green kinds may be inarched towards the end of this
month; but deciduous sorts generally succeed best when done about
the middle of it. For the method, see page 257.

THE PLEASURE, OR FLOWER-GARDEN.

Choice Hyacinths.

The earlier sorts of hyacinths will begin to open and shew
colour, in the beginning of this month; it will be proper to screen the
finer sorts, from the loo powerful effects of the sun, which if not
prevented, would bleach and tarnish their colours, particularly the
reds and deep bines; but if they are properly defended from it,
their colours will be preserved, and they will, in some measure, be
kept back, so as to be in full bloom with the later sorts, especially
if the roots of the early kinds have been planted, about an inch deeper
than the res': it is a very desirable object, in a grand display of this
delightful flower to have a uniform bloom.

It will be necessary to support the stems, as they advance in height;
for this purpose, small sticks or wires, painted green, should be
forced into the ground, immediately behind the bulbs, either in an
erect position, or leaning a little backwards, to which the stems are
to be, rather loosely, tied with small piecesof green worsted, as soon
as they begin to bend, or are in danger of being borne down by the
weight of their bells;* this operation must be repeated as they ad-
vance in height, for it is impossible to do it at one time, so as to
answer the purpose. When the greater part of the bed appears in
colour, a covering or awning should be erected over it, and the
walk to be in front: for the support of the awning, a strong frame of
wood should be erected, ten feet high in the centre, and seven feet
at each side, and covered with strong sheeting, which will kecj) out
jibe rain and admit a tolerable degree of light; it should come down

• The Florist's usual name for the Corolla of the Hyacinth.

April.] FLOWER-GARDEN. 34 £

close to the bed on the north side, in order to preserve it from cold
winds, which are prejudicial to the bloom.

The covering ought to be so constructed, by means of lines and
puUies, as to be easily and expeditiously roiled up, or let down as
occasion requires, to aftbrd the planls, the full benefit of light and
air, at all favourable o/ifiortU7iities; that is to say, when the air is
mild, and light clouds intervene, so as to blunt the sun's rays.

A bed of Hyacinths never requires to be watered at any period;
the rains that happen alter planting, are generally more than suf-
ficient, both for the roots and bloom; and after the bloom is over,
they are rather prejudicial than otherwise, except when very mo-
derate.

_ Although covering in the manner described, presents and exhi-
bits the bloom to the greatest advantage, yet it evidently has a ten-
dency to weaken and injure the bulbs; and ought not, therefore, to
be continued more than two or three weeks at most; but as soon
as the general bloom declines, the bed should be immediately ex-
posed to the open air, and the hoops replaced as before, that
mats may be laid on occasionally, for protecting the beds from heavy
torrents of rain, which would prevent the bulbs from ripening
well, and render them very subject to decay, after having been tak-
en up.

The common hyacinths in open beds and borders, will require no
other care at this time, than to support their flower stems, as direct-
ed above; without which, they will generally fall down, and much
of their beauty be lost.

Ji Description of the Properties of a Fine Double Hyacinth.

The stem slioiild be strong, tall, and erect, supporting numerous
large bells, each suspended by a short and strong peduncle, or foot-
stalk, in a horizontal position, so that the whole may have a com-
pact pyramidal form, with the crown, or uppermost bell perfectly
erect.

The bells should be large and very double; that is, well filled
with broad bold petals, appearing to the eye rather convex than flat
or hollow: they should occupy about one half the length of the
stem.

The colours should be clear and bright, whether plain red, white,
or blue, or variously intermixed and diversified in the eye; the lat-
ter, it must be confessed, gives additional lustre and elegance to this
beautiful flovver.

Strong bright colours are, in general, preferred to such as are
pale; there are however, many rose-coloured, pure white, and
light blue hyacinths, in high estimation.

Observations. Some sorts consist of petals of different colours,
such as light reds, with deep red eyes; whites, with rosy, blue,
purple, or yellow eyes; light blues, with deep blue or purple eyes;
and yellow, with purple in the eye, &c. Others again have their
petals striped, or marked down the centre, with a paler or deeper
colour, which has a pleasing effect.

342 THE PLEASURE, OR [April.

It sometimes happens, and with some sorts more frequently
than others, that two stems are produced from the same root, one
is generally considerably taller than the other; when this is the
case, the weaker may be cut off near the ground, soon after it
makes its appearance, or suffered to bloom, and its bells be inter-
mjxed with the lower ones of the taller stem, so dextrously as to ap-
pear like one regular pyramid of bells.

Tulips.

Towards the end of this month, some of your choice tulips will
begin to shew colour*; they should, when the greater part of the
blossoms begin to open, be shaded from the sun, in the same man-
ner as directed for your elegant hyacinths; for, when its heat is
considerable, it will cause the colours to run and intermix, in such
a manner, as to destroy the elegance and beauty of the flowers;
some sorts are more particularly liable to this than others, and will
be spoiled in five minutes.

The awning should be always kept rolled up, or totally off, ex-
cept when the sun is powerful: for if kept too long, or too closely
covered, the colours of the flowers would become faint and weak,
and the grandeur of effect would be lost, or considerably lessened.

Strong winds are extremely injurious to tulips, when in flower,
by dashing them against one another, and thereby bruising their
petals; from the effects of which, they must be guarded, by letting
down the awning at such times quite to the ground, on the windy
side; a line of bass mats sewed together, and their upper edge
nailed to the frame on that side, may answer the purpose, if the
cloth is not of sufficient length.

Tulips never require to be artificially watered, in the hottest and
driest seasons, at any period from planting to taking up the roots;
nevertheless, moderate rains will be very beneficial to them in
spring, and cause them to produce a strong bloom; after flowering,
too much wet is very prejudicial to the roots. Immediately after
the flowers are on the decUne, the bed must be fully exposed to the
open air.

Lines of small twine, painted green, should pass from one end of
the bed to the other, corresponding with the rows of flowers, fas-
tened at the ends and middle to nice painted sticks, placed therein
for that purpose; to these the stems of the flowers are to be loosely
tied with short pieces of green worsted, which will preserve a pleas-
ing regularity of appearance, without stiffness and formality. The
covering may be continued, at the necessary intervals, for three
weeks with safety; but continuing it too long, will injure them.

When vacancies occur in the beds, by the decay of some roots,
which might look awkward, you may immerse the lower end of the
stems of flowers from other quarters, in phials, filled with water,
and sunk into the bed, so as not to appear above ground; these will
continue in bloom, when shaded, for several days, and may be re-
placed with others, which will fill those vacancies, and make a tole-
rable appearance.

April.] FLOWER-GARDEN. 343

Common tulips will require no other care, in the borders, &c.
than keeping them free from weeds.

v3 description of the properties of a fine Variegated Late Tulip.

The stem should be strong, elastic, and erect, and about thirty
inches above the surface of the bed.

The flower should be large and composed of six petals; these
should proceed a little horizontally at first, and then turn upwards,
forming almost a perfect cup, with a round bottom, rather wider at
the top.

The three exterior petals, should be somewhat larger than the
three interior ones, and broader at their base: all the petals should
have perfectly entire edges, free from notch or serrature; the top
of each, should be broad and well rounded; the groundcolour of
the flower, at the bottom of the cup, ought to be a clear white, or
yellow; and the various rich coloured stripes, which are the prin-
cipal ornament of a fine Tulip, should be regular, bold, and distinct
on the margin, and terminate in fine broken points, elegantly fea-
thered or pencilled.

The center of each leaf or petal, should contain one or more bold
blotches, or stripes, intermixed with small portions of the ori-
ginal or breeder colour, abruptly broken into many irregular obtuse
points. Some florists are of opinion, that the central stripes, or
blotches, do not contribute to the beauty and elegance of the Tulip,
unless confined to a narrow stripe, exactly down the center, and
that they should be perfectly free from any remains of the original
breeder colour: it is certain that such appear very beautiful and
delicate, especially, when they have a regular narrow feathering at
the edge; but the greatest connoisseurs in this flower, unanimously
agree, that it denotes superiority, when the Tulip abounds with rich
colouring, distributed in a distinct and regular manner throughout
the flower, except in the bottom of the cup; which, it cannot be dis-
puted, should be clear, of a bright white, or yellow, free from stain
or tinge, in order to constitute what is considered 2L/terfect flower.

Tulips are divided into two classes, viz. early and late blowers.
The late, are infinitely the finest and most valuable, and are of course
entitled to the principal attention of the curious. They are divided
into six distinct families, or rather divisions of the same family, viz.

1. Prima Baguet's, which are tall; the colours, brown on white.

2. Baguet Rigaut^s^ these are not so tall; and have strong stems
and large cups: the colours as before.

3.' Incomparable VerfiorCs, The characteristics of these are, the
form of the cups, which are very handsome; the colours a shining
brown on white.

4. Bybloemen's. These have a white ground, with a variety of
colours.

5. Bizards. The colours of these, are on a yellow ground, various,
and consisting, in the whole, of three or more.

344 1**^ PLEASURE, OR [Aprii..

6. The CUerry and Rose; the name denotes their colours, which
are on a white ground.

Breeders, are self or plain coloured tulips, obtained by sowing
the seed, which in time, by being planted in a proper compost of
lime rubbish and poor soil, accidently, break out into stripes and
variegations, by which new varieties are annually obtained.

I have been the more particular in my account of that glorious
flower, the Tuli/ia ges?ieriana, or garden tulip, as it is now in more
general estimation, than any other flower whatever.

Mr. Samuel Curtis, Florist.^ of Walworth near London, had
sent me last autumn, upwards of two hundred varieties of the most
elegant sorts of tulips, and at the same time, informed me, that it
is very common for him to receive from fifty to eighty pounds
sterling, for a single root, of a new variety. Such is the present
rage for tulips in England.

For the most suitable soil, and best method of planting, see the
Floiver-Garden for October.

Ranunculuses.

April showers, and frequent rains in May, are essentially neces-
sary to the growth and vigour of Ranunculuses: if these fail, soft
water must be administered in sufficient quantities between the
rows, by means of a common watering pot, with a long tube or
spout held low, so as not to wash the earth into holes: for it is bet-
ter to avoid watering the plants themselves, as it might chill them
too much, and stagnate their juices. The consequences of omit-
ting to water when necessary, are these, viz. The plants will
make little progress; the blossom buds of the strongest will be
small, and the weaker plants will not bloom at all; the grass or
foliage will put on a sickly yellowish appearance, from which it
will not recover during the season; and lastly, the roots when taken
up, will be small and lean.

]3ut such kinds of watering, however necessary, are by no means
30 salutary to these, or any other flowers or plants, as fine warm,
natural showers; as they can neither be so equally dispensed, nor
are the plants naturally disposed to receive them, when the atmo-
sphere is dry; because their pores and fibres are contracted, and
they are as it were, in the expectancy of dry weather.

Since it is evident that artificial waterings are, in all respects, so
much inferior to natural, it is, therefore, belter to wait a day or two,
in hopes of a change of weather, than to be too hasty in affording
these succours, although the plants may appear to suffer foV the
moment, by the omission: for if such a change should fortunately
take place, they will receive infinitely more benefit from it, than
when both themselves and the soil are already satured or replen-
ished with water, not so congenial to vegett-tion, as that ordained
by nature for the purpose. For their further treatment see the
FIower'Garden in May.

April.] FLOWER-GARDEN. 345

»inemones.

The beds of Anemones, for ihe present, will require exactly the
same treatment as the Ranunculuses; therefore, it is not necessary
to say more in this place respecting them.

»9uriculas4

The auriculas, towards the middle of this month, will be ad-
vancing in their flower stems. If any plant is possessed of more
than one or two principal stems, it is adviseable to pinch off the pips,
or flower-buds, of the smallest and weakest; in order to render the
blossoms of the remaining, larger and more vigorous, than they
would be, if this was omitted to be done in due time.

When the pips become turgid, and begin to expand, they must
be preserved from rain; nor should the early plants be suffered to
remain in a situation exposed to cold winds: on the contrary, they
ought to be selected from the rest, and removed to a shady corner,
vhere they should have hand-glasses suspended over them, or
placed on brick-bats or the like, to admit air, and yet preserve the
expanding bloom from rain.

The farina or mealy dust, which overspreads and ornaments the
surface of those flowers, contributes exceedingly, to their lustre
and beauty; this must therefore, be preserved upon them; the least
shower of rain would easily wash it off"; it is also liable to be blown
away by the winds; and the sun, if permitted to shine freely on the
flowers, would occasion them soon to fade.

Therefore, where it is required to have the more curious or
choice varieties, to blow in the best perfection, the pots containing^
the plants should, according as the flowers begin to open, be imme-
diately removed and placed on the shelves of the auricula stage, op
where the flowers may be protected occasionally, from such wea-
ther as would deface the bloom. The stand or stage, should have
from three to five ranges of shelves, in proportion to the number of
pots, about six inches wide, rising theatre-like, one above another,
from the front; having the back generally placed against a shady
wall, pale, or other building; it must be constantly covered at top,
water-tight, sloping to the back part; but the front and ends should
only be covered occasionally, by having some canvas or mats fas-
tened thereto by way of curtain, so contrived that it may be I'eadily
let down and drawn up at pleasure; which, when the air is very
sharp, or in high winds, or driving rains, must be let down to shel-
ter the flowers; but when the weather is mild and calm, let the
front and ends be constantly open. Or this may also be used occa-
sionally to shade the flowers from the sun, where it has access in
the heat of the day; observing however, generally, not to let the
screen remain longer than is necessary for the defence of the
bloom.

Regular waterings should be given during the time the plants are
on the stage; examine them once every day, to see where water is

2X

346 THE PLEASURE, OR [Aprii.

wanted; and let such pots as stand in need of that article be imme-
diately supplied with it. In doing this, suffer no water to fall on
the flowers, for that would wash off the afore-mentioned farinaceous
bloom, and greatly deface their beauty.

The waterings should be moderate, and frequent; for these
plants being rather of a succulent nature, cannot bear too much,
without material injury.

Keep the surface of the pots perfectly neat, free from weeds and
every sort of litter; suffer no decayed leaves to remain on the plants,
but let such, as soon as they appear, be taken off.

By thus placing your auricula pots on a covered stage, it not on-
ly preserves the flowers much longer in beauty, but you also, more
readily view them, and they show themselves to much greater ad-
vantage than when placed on the ground.

The shelves and back of the stage, should be painted black, or of
some dark colour, by way of contrast to the white eyes, &c. of the
flowers: and if a large looking-glass be placed at each end of the
stage, the effect produced will be very pleasing, by apparently length-
ening the stage each way, as far as the eye can reach.

A row of fine Polyanthuses in pots, may likewise be introduced on
the auricula stage; it will add to the variety, and form a pleasing
contrast.

The tallest flowering auriculas, should stand on the most distant
shelf, and the shortest in front; those stems which are weak and bend,
ought to be supported with small wires, fixed in the earth behind
them, so as not to be easily discerned. If the roof of the stage
is covered with glass, it will be an additional advantage to the
plants.

A Description of the Properties of a fine Variegated Auricula,

The stem should be strong, erect, and elastic, and of a proper
height, that the bunch or truss of flowers, may be above the foliage
of the plant.

The peduncles or foot-stalks, should also be strong and elastic,
and of a proportional length to the size and quantity of the pips,
which should not be less than seven in number, that the bunch may
be rather round, close, and compact.

The component parts of the pip, are the tube, with its stamens
and anthers; the eye, and the exterior circle containing the ground
colour, with its edge or margin: these three should be all well pro-
portioned, which will be the case, if the diameter of the tube be one
part, the eye three, and the whole pip or flower, six, or nearly so.

All the admirers of this charming flower agree, that the pips
ought to be round; but this seldom happens; and we must be con-
tent if they are so nearly round, as not to be what is called starry.

The anthers or summits of the stamins, ought to be large, bold,
and fill the tube well, and the tube should terminate rather above
the eye; the eye should be very white, smooth, and round, without
any cracks, and distinct from the ground or self-colour.

April.] FLOWER-GARDEN. 347

The ground colour should be bold and rich, and equal on every
side of the eye, whether it be in one uniform circle, or in bright
patches; it should be distinct at the eye, and only broken at the
outward part, into the edging; a fine black purple, or coffee-colour,
contrast best with the eye; a rich blue, or bright pink, is pleasing,
but a glowing scarlet, or deep crimson, would be most desirable, if
well edged with a bright green; but this is very rare.

The green edge, or margin, is the principal cause of the varie-
gated appearance in the flower; and it should Lq in proportion to
the ground colour; that is, about one half of each.

The darker grounds are generally covered with a white pow-
der, which constitutes much of the beauty of the flower.

Compost for Auriculas.

The compost proper for Auriculas, should consist of the follow-
ing ingredients, in the annexed proportions, viz.

One half, rotten cow-dung, two years old.

One sixth, fresh sound earth, of an open texture.

One eighth, earth of rotten leaves.

One twelfth, coarse sea or river sand.

One twelfth, moory earth.

One twenty-fourth, ashes of burned vegetables.
These ingredients should be well incorporated, and placed in an
open situation, perfectly exposed to the action of the sun and air; it
should be laid in a regular heap or mass from fifteen to eighteen
inches thick and turned frequently: in this state it should remain
a year or six months, turning it once every two months, and keeping
it always free from weeds: before it is used, it should be passed
through a coarse screen, to free it from stones, 8cc. and to incorpo-
rate it the more effectually.

JVew Potting Auriculas, and Increasing them by Slips,

The most adviseable time to transplant, or to slip auriculas, or as
it is usually termed, to pot them, is immediately, or very soon after
their bloom is over; and this should be repeated annually; for it
preserves the health and constitution of the plants, by affording them
a fresh supply of nourishment, and affords an opportunity of cur-
tailing the fibres, if grown too long, or if any are decayed and
mouldy; or of cutting off" the lower part of the main root, if in a rot-
ting or decayed state, which is frequently the case. By this treat-
ment, the plants are brought into a state of action and fresh vege-
tation, which will cause a continued circulation of the juices, during
the summer.

The pots should be hard baked, and for blooming plants, ought
to be seven inches in diameter at top, four and a half at bottom, and
about seven deep: but smaller plants, and offsets, should have
shallower pots, and of a proportionate size; and very large plants,
must have pots in proportion. These before being used, if new,
should be immersed in water, for five or six hours, or more.

348 A HE PLEASURE, OR [April.

In potting or transplanting auriculas, the plant ought to be care-
fully turned out of the former pot, and the earth shaken from its
fibres, which should be trimmed, if found long and numerous, and
also any part of the old main root, that appears in a sickly or de-
cayed state must be cut clean out, whether on the lower part, or
side; and if near the leaves, a cement should be immediately ap-
plied, consisting of bees wax and pitch, in equal quantities, melted
together, and laid on when soft, but not hot, to make it adhere more
firmly. Place a b<)llow oyster shell, or the like, over the hole in
the bottom of each pot, with the convex side upwards, and then
more than half fill it, with the compost; let it be higher in the
middle than at the sides: the plant is next to be placed thereon,
with its fibres regularly distributed all around, and the pot filled
up; adding a little coarse sand, close round the stem of the plant,
on the surface: the bottom of the pot, should then be gently struck,
two or three times, against the ground, in order to close the earth
about the roots; this will cause it to sink half an inch, below the
top of the pot, which will prevent the loss of water, when adminis-
tered.

N. B. The true depth to plant an auricula, is within about half
an inch of the bottom of its lowest or outside leaves.

Any offsets that have formed one or more fibres, of an inch or
two in length, may be slifiped off the old plant, and replanted round
the sides of large pots, or singly in small ones, filled with the same
compost; and if hand glasses are placed over them, such will cause
their fibres to grow more rapidly; but they ought not to be long
continued on, lest the plants should be drawn and weakened there-

After potting, give each plant a little water, and place the pots in
a shaded situation, where they may have the morning sun till ten
o'clock, and the afternoon, from four or five, but by no means under
the drip of trees; there they are to remain till October, taking care
to keep them regularly watered, and free from weeds. The pots
may, or may not, be plunged in the earth, but in the latter case, they
will require more attendance.

Care, of Seedling Auriculas.

Seedling auriculas, which were sown last autumn, or this spring,
now demand attention; these plants, when newly come up, or while
quite young, must be carefully protected from the full sun in the
heat of the day, and frequently refreshed with water.

The boxes or tubs in which they are growing, should be removed
to a shady border, toward the latter end of this month, or beginning
of next: the place shoui^d be open to the morning sun till about nine
o'clock, but shaded the rest of the day, and the plants watered fre-
quently in dry weather. As soon as any of them appear with six leaves
such should be carefully taken out from the rest, and planted in pots
or boxes filled with compost, about two inches asunder; and if grown
by ihe beginning of August, so large as to touch each other, they
may then be transplanted into separate small pots, to remain all
winter.

April.] FLOWER-GARDEN. 349

Polyanthuses.

Polyanthuses blow at the same time, and, the fine kinds, require
nearly the same treatment as auriculas, both with respect to soil
and situaiion; they are like the latter, very impatient of heat and
drou»^ht, and agree with a much greater portion of moisture: they
are !ond of shade, and will not succeed well, when exposed to our
summer heats in a warm situation; at least, so as to blow, even in
tolerable perfection, the ensuing season.

'I'fie fine kinds may be grown in the same sized pots, and in the
sanru: compost as auriculas, with the addition of more loam; and
the . ornmon or more indifferent sorts, may be planted in cool shady
beds or borders, being tolerably hardy, and having more to fear
from the summers heats, than the winter frosts.

Their propagation is by slips and seed, at the same time and in
the same manner, as directed for auriculas.

.5 Description of the Properties of a fine PoLrANfHus.

Its properties are, in most respects, similar to those of a fine au-
ricula; that is, the stem, peduncles, or foot-stalks, and formation of
the bunch or truss; therefore, a description of its pips, or corollas,
only remains to be given in this place.

The tube of the corolla above the calyx, should be short, well
filled with the anthers or summits of the stamens, and terminate
fluted, rather above the eye.

The eye should be round, of a bright clear yellow, and distinct
from the ground colour; the proportion as in the auricula through-
out the flower.

The ground colour is most admired, when shaded with a light
and dark rich crimson, resembling velvet, with one mark or stripe
in the centre of each division of the rim, bold and distinct from the
edging down to the eye, where it should terminate in a fine point.

The pips should be large, quite flat, and as round, as may be con-
sistent with their beautiful figure, which is circular; excepting those
small indentures between each division of the rim, which divide it
into several heart-like segments.

The edging should resemble a bright gold lace, bold, clear, and
distinct, and so nearly of the same colour of the eye and sti'ipes, as
scarcely to be distinguished: in short, the polyanthus should pos-
sess a graceful elegance of form, a richness of colouring, and sym-
metry of parts, not to be found united in any other flower.

J'^ine double primroses, are cultivated by oflsets, in the same way
and at he same time as polyanthuses, and require similar care and
management in pots; they are somewhat more tender, and conse-
quently must be treated accordingly.

Carnations.

If you have omitted the potting or transplanting of carnations
last month, where necessary, let it be done in this, as early as pos-
sible, agreebly to the rules laid down in page 295.

^50 fHE PLEASURE, OR [April.

Keep the pots perfectly free from weeds, and the plants from de-
cayed leaves, and let the earth on the surface be stirred, if it binds
hard; for tliis will encourage the plants to shoot, and will also give
an air of neatness. Water the pots often in warm weather, for they
will require a little every second day, or oftener if the season proves
dry, which should not be omitted, otherwise the plants will shoot
weakly, and produce but slender flower-stalks.

When the flower-stalks have advanced, let them be supported as
directed in May.

Carnations may yet be finally planted into the borders or beds,
where intended to flower, but that should be done in the beginning
of the month; removing them with balls, and watering them as soon
as planted.

Management of Pots of Perennial Plants in general.

Give fresh earth to such pots of perennial plants as were not dres-
sed and new earthed in March. For the method of doing which, see
page 297.

The plants will receive great benefit from this dressing; and
where it was not done in that month, it should not be put off longer
than the beginning of this.

If you have plants of any kind in small pots, that require to be
shifted into larger, it may be performed early in the month; in do-
ing of which, turn each plant out of the former pot, with the ball of
earth entire; trim the outside roots, and pare away some of the
old earth; having fresh mould or compost, replant it into a larger
pot, filling the deficiency with new earth, and give some water im-
mediately.

Be very particular in dry weather to supply all your plants with
a sufficiency of water; this is a material article and should not be
omitted. Water should be always given as often as the earth be-
gins to appear dry in the pots, as there is no other general rule by
which it can be administered.

Pinks.

Pinks may yet be transplanted, slipped, and managed as directed
in March, page 296 — but it will be necessary to do this, as early in
the month as possible.

Tender Jlnnuals.

Such tender annuals as you have in an advanced state, are to be
managed as directed in page 298; always observing to give them
more and more air, in proportion to the increasing heat of the wea-
ther, and shade to the young and weakly plants from the mid-day
sun, when too powerful. As they advance in growth, it will be ne-
cessary to raise the frames, in order to give them full liberty to
shoot, closing the vacancy below if thought necessary.

But where there is the convenience either of a drawng frame, or
glass-case, for the purpose of drawing the tall growing tricolours,

April] FLOWER-GARDEN. 35 j[

and other curious annual plants, it may be effected to greater ad-
vantage.

The drawing frame is either composed of two, three, or more dif-
ferent frames, all of the same length and breadth; and each, about
nine or ten inches deep, except the upper glass-frame, which should
be ten inches deep in front, and eighteen at ihe back; being all of
equal dimensions, in width and length, made in a very exact manner,
to fit one on the top of another, appearing as but one frame, when
thus joined; and are to be made use of in the following manner:

Begin first with the deepest frame; then, when the plants have
reached the glasses, let the said frame be taken up, and in its place
set one of the others, and immediately fix the deepest frame upon
that, as above; and then, when they have filled that space, let ano-
ther frame be added; observing, as above, to let the deepest or
sloping frame be always placed uppermost, in order to receive the
glasses.

The Glass-Cases for this purpose, are generally made about six,
seven, or eight feet wide, and as long as maybe convenient; the
height should be five or six feet in front, and seven or eight in the
back.

The front ought to be of glass-sashes, perfectly upright, and
facing the south; the back may be either of v/ood or brick, and
both ends, of the same materials, but if of glass, the better; and
the top must also be of glass-sashes, sloping from the back to the
front.

Within this, a hot-bed is to be made, for which a pit must be form*
ed nearly the whole length, raised by brick-work or planking, above
the floor; having the whole about two feet and a half deep, and from
four to five or six feet wide: this is to be filled with hot dung, or
tanner's bark, carrying it up a few inches higher tlian the top of
the pit, to allow for settling; and if a dung-bed, lay earth or tan-bark
at top, five or six inches thick.

The pots are to be placed upon this, plunging them to their rinfis
in earth, as before mentioned; but if the bed be made of tan, plunge
them therein, having no occasion for earth upon such beds.

In this frame, or glass-case, let the plants have fresh air daily;
and give sufficient supphes of water: and towards the latter end of
May, they will be advanced to a large size, and may be removed, in
their pots, into any principal compartment in the pleasure ground,
&c, or placed among the green-house plants.

When tender, or curious annuals, have been omitted to be sown
in the former months, a slight hot-bed may be made for them, in
the beginning of this, to forward them as much as possible. The
seeds are to be sown, as directed in page 162.

Sowing annual Flower Seeds.

All the varieties of annual flower-seeds, that are capable of bear-
ing the open air and of arriving at perfection in our climates, may
now be sown with good success. In the early part of the month, you
may sow the following kinds, with many others, too tedious to

352 THE PLEASURE, OR [April.

mention in this place, viz. Alkekengi, China Asters, in sorts, IMol-
davian-baum, Belvidere or summer Cypress, Candy tuft in sorts,
Lobel's-Catchfly, Cyanus, in sorts, Fios-Adonis, Bladder-Keimia,
Heart's-ease, Convolvulus tricolor, Larkspurs, in sorts, Lavatera, in
sorts, and Lupins of every kind; Dwarf Lychnis, Curled, Oriental,
and Peruvian Mallows, Nigellas, Roma Nettle, Sweet, Tangier,
and Winged Peas, Annual and Ten-week Stocks, St^awberry Spi-
nach, Persicaria, sunflower, and Venui's Looking-glass; Snails,
Horns, Hedge-hogs, Ca'erpillars and Horse-Shoes; Venus's Na-
velvvort, Purple, and Yellow Hawkweed; Cassia Chamaechrista,
Polygala sanguinea, and Silene, in sorts, &c. &c. About the
middle of the month you may sow, Sweet Alyson, Love lies bleed-
ing, Prince's Feather, Mignonette, Tree, and spike Amaranthus;
Cock's-combs, Cape Marigold, Bastard Saffron, and Honey-wort;
Sweet Sultan, China-Hollyhock, and China pinks; Marvel of Pe-
ru, Nolana, PalmaChristi, Annual Snapdragon, Zennia and Xeran-
themum, &c. and in the last ten days of the month, you may sow
either of the preceding, and also the following kinds, viz. White,
purple, and striped Globe Amaranthus, Tricolor Amaranthus,
Double Balsams and Martynia annua; Browallia, Scarlet Ipomoea,
Capsicums in sorts, Serpent Cucumber and Squirting Cucumber,
White and Purple Egg-plant; Cleome, purple, white, and dwarf
Dolichos, with many other kinds. The whole of the preceding
sorts, may be sown in small patches in the borders, interspersing
the kinds, so as to form a well assorted variety and a long succes-
sion of bloom. If to be sown in patches observe the directions giv-
en for sowing hardy annual Jlonver seeds, in page 158, &c. which
•will now be perfectly applicable to these Such as you wish to sow
in small beds for transplanting, let them be sown as directed, for
perennial and biennial Jloiver seeds, in page 353, observing always,
to give each kind, a depth of covering, in proportion to the size of
the seed.

Let the beds or patches, be frequently watered, in dry weather,
both before and after the plants appear; and when they have been
up a few weeks, let all the large growing kinds be thinned, where
they have risen too thick; observing to transplant into other places,
where wanted, some of the best you pull up, of the kinds that suc-
ceed in that way: thin the others as directed in May, &c.

Any of the smaller growing kinds, such as mignonette, ten-week
stock, Brawallia, sensitive plant, ice plant. Sec. may be sown in pots,
and if duly watered and kept clean, will arrive at good perfection;
but the two last, will require the protection of glasses for some
time.

Sowing Carnation and Pink Seeds.

Carnation and Pink seeds, may be sown, any time this month.
As it is from seed, that all new varieties are obtained, you should
sow some every year; and if you have but one good variety from
each sowing, there can be no reason to complain; as this may after-
wards be abundantly propagated, by layers, or slips. The fine
do'uble kinds seldom ripen seed, but semi'doubles do very plenti-

April.] FLOWER-GARDEN. 353

fully: from the seeds of the latter, especially, when growing neat
the finest varieties, you may expect some good, and, perhaps, va-
luable flowers. For this purpose, prepare a small bed of good
rich ground, sow the seeds on the surface, tolerably thick, each sort
separate, and sift over them about a quarter of an inch of fine light
earth. If the weather should prove dry, water the beds occa-
sionally, the plants will soon rise, after which, it will be necessary
to keep them free from weeds, and refresh them now and then with
a little water. For their further management, see the work of the
following months.

Sowing Perennial and Biennial Flower Seed&i

You may now, with good success, sow the seeds of most kinds
of perennial and biennial fibrous rooted flowers, that prosper in the
open ground; such as those mentioned last month, in page 299,
together with Monk's-hood, Nettle-leaved Campanala, Lobelias,
Phloxes, Double Soapwort, Sneeze-wort, Goat*s-rue, and Red Gar-
den Valerian; Crimson Monarda, Chinese Ixia, Verbascums,
Night-smelling Rocket and Aletris, or star-root; Asclepiases, of
various sorts. Calceolarias, Maryland Cassia, Clinopodiums and
Coreopsises; Dracocephalums, Galega virginica, Gerardias, Cucu-
balis, Hedysarums and Heucheras; Hibiscuses, Liatrises, Oeno-
theras and Podalyrias; Penstemons Rudbeckias, Saxifragas, and
Silphiums; Solidagoes, Spigelias, Spirseas, Chelone, Trilliums,
and Veronicas, with many other kinds.

These seeds may either be sown on borders, or on three or four
feet wide beds, of rich earth, and covered evenly with fine light
earth; the largest not more than from half to three quarters of an
inch deep, and the smallest from an eighth to a quarter of an
inch.

But in sowing these or any other kinds, you may draw shallow
drills, proportioning the depth, to the size of the seeds, and sow
them therein, drawing the earth lightly over them; observing that
it is much better to cover too light, than too deep; for, if covered
shallow, they will vegetate when moist weather ensues, but if over-
ly deep, never. Or you may practise the following method: first
rake the surface of the bed smooth, and with the back of a rake, or
a common trowel, draw or push off the fine top mould, either into
the alleys, or the divisions intended to be left between each kind,
and to a depth in proportion to the size of the seed intended to be
sown in each space; then sow it on the surface, and cast the
drawn off earth evenly over it, after which, pick or rake away
the lumps with a fine rake, and pat the surface lightly and smooth,
with the back of the trowel.

Should dry weather ensue, it will be necessary to sprinkle the
beds, frequently, with water, both before and after the plants ap-
pear, and to be very particular in keeping them free from weeds.
Some of the more delicate kinds when up, may not be able to bear
the mid-day sun, whilst young, and will consequentlv, appear in

27

354 '^"E PLEASURE, OR [April.

a declining state; these must be shaded and protected from its
influence, by occasional coverings of mats, until they have established
their roots, and obtained sufficient strength to withstand its force.

Planting and Propagating Perennial Flowering-Plants.

In the early part of this month, you may continue to remove and
transplant, most sorts of fibrous, and tuberous rooted perennial flovr-
ering plants, and to slip and increase many of them by offsets.
The following, together with those mentioned in page 300, may
yet be removed with good success; that is, such of them as have
noc previously begun to shoot flower stems, viz. Dracocephalums
of various kinds, but particularly the virginicum and dentatum, which
are very beautiful; Penstemons, Podalyrias, Gentianas of sorts,
Hibiscuses in great varieties, Cypripediums and Phloxes; Monar-
das. Coreopsises, Sisyrinchiums and Gerardias; Alefrises, Aco-
nites, Ranunculus aconitifolius, Dictamnuses, and Dodecatheon
Meadia; Galega virginica, Hedysarums, Hemerocallises, Napaea,
Paeonia, Saponaria, Silphiums and Rhexias, with many others. A
great number of the above kinds, may now be taken up out of the
woods and fields, and transplanted into the flower-borders and plea-
sure-grounds; which will keep up a regular succession of bloom,
during the whole summer and autumn.

Let the plants be taken up carefully, with balls of earth about
their roots, and planted where necessary; then water them, and re-
peat it in dry weather, till they begin to grow freely: they will
flower, generally, the same year, and those that are truly perennial,
will continue to reward your labours, annually, with a new display
of their beauty, as long as you deserve that compliment, by render-
ing them a fostering care.

Here again, would I call attention, to the necessity of introducing
into our gardens and pleasure grounds, a variety of our beautiful
field flowers; and not to sufter those departments to appear deso-
lated, in the autumnal months, whilst nature displays a profusion of
its glory in the fields, woods, meadows, and swamps; but in doing
this, let it be observed, to give each kind, a soil and situation as
nearly similar to that in which it grew in its wild state, as the na-
ture and extent of your ground will admit. See page 79 and 80.

/t/'ote. In page 62, &c. you will find general designs, both ancient
and modern, for laying out pleasure grounds, flower-gardens, and all
kinds of ornamental planting, to which I refer you.

Double Daisies.

Double daisies may now be propagated abundantly, by dividing
and slipping the roots; but these should be planted in shady borders,
or rather in shallow frames, where they can be protected from the

April.] FLOWER-GARDEN. 355

too powerful influence of the summer sun, which would absolutely
detroy them, if left to its mercy. These frames will also be con-
venient, for the laying of boards and mats over them, for the wmter
protection of the plants; without which, most of them would perish.
They may be either planted in small pots sunk in the earth, or in
rows in the beds, ten inches asunder, and plant from plant, six inches
distant in the row. Water them immediately, and give them
shade for a few days.

Planting deciduous Flowering and ornamental Shrubs.

Such deciduous kinds of trees and shrubs as are yet to be re-
moved, should be transplanted in the first week or ten days of the
month, in the middle states, and not delayed longer in the eastern
states, than the fifteenth. For the various kinds and methods of
planting them, see page 301.

Propagating Flowering Shrubs and Evergreens,

For the methods of propagating all kinds of hardy flowering
shrubs and evergreens, see the JVursery in March; and also the
work of the JVursery in this month, June and July, &c.

Planting Evergreens.

Every kind of hardy evergreen trees and shrubs, may be removed
in the beginning of this month, with the best possible success; but
the earlier the better. See page 337.

Neither the English broad-leaved laurel, Portugal laurel, sweet
bay, Laurustinus, Arbutus or strawberry tree, nor the evergreen
cypress, can withstand the severity of the winter frosts, in the mid-
dle or eastern states, with very few exceptions, in the former; and,
therefore, must in these places be treated as green-house plants.
In most parts of the southern states, they succeed extremely well;
but all kinds of trees and shrubs will, there, require to be planted
much earlier in the season.

In transplanting large evergreens, if the plants can be convenient-
ly taken up, and brought with balls of earth about their roots, it
should be done, placing them in the holes, with the balls entire: or
previously, pour some water into each hole, and with your spade
let it and the earth be worked up together, then plant the roots in the
pap, and fill the earth in about them, tread it down gently, round the
stem, and form it a little hollow at top, in order to retain about the
roots, any water that may afterwards be given when necessary.

Such as are not treated in this way, must have a plentiful water-
ing, immediately after being planted, to settle and close the earth
about the roots; and if some mulch is laid on the surface round
each plant, it will be very serviceable in preventing the sun and
wind from drying the earth too fast.

356 1'HE PLEASURE, OR [Apwt.

Stakes should be immediately placed, to such as require them,
firmly fixed in the ground, and the plants tied thereto.

Planting Roses.

Roses of every sort may still be planted with great success. But
for some remarks worthy of attention, see that article in page 302.

Planting Edgings.

There is no plant, that makes so neat and permanent an edging,
as box; it may be planted, for that purpose, in the first week of this
month, but if slips or cuttings are to be used, they will require very
frequent waterings, till they throw out and establish fibres or young
roots. Rooted plants, however, or slips with the roots attached to
them, will succeed well in the early part of the month, if watered
occasionally. For the method of planting and forming box edgings,
see page 302,

Thyme, hysop, winter-savory, and lavender, are sometimes plant-
ed for edgings; but these grow rather out of compass, or get
stubby and naked, by close clipping.

Pinks may likewise be occasionally planted for edgings; and
will grow in tolerable close order for a year or two, and produce
abundance of flowers.

Thrift, if neatly planted, makes handsome edgings to borders, or
flower-beds, both in its evergreen property, and as a pretty flower-
ing plant in summer. This may be planted either in a close edg-
ing as directed for box, or with a dibble, setting the plants near
enough to touch one another, so as at once, to form a tolerable close
row, or, hov/ever, not above two or three inches apart, giving occa-
casional waterings for a week or two, if necessary.

Londou-pride, that is, the Saxifraga umbrosa, will make a very
neat edging* and is to be planted as directed for thrift.

Double daisies are made use of in many parts of Europe for edg-
ings, and form very neat ones, but they are not able to bear the
heat of our summers, which seldom fail to destroy them, when fully
exposed thereto; nor can they survive, without some slight pro-
tection, the severe winters of the middle and eastern states.

Any of our Sisyrinchiums, but parlicularly the mucronatum, will
make beautiful edgings; they keep blowing a long time, look very
gay, and may now be propagated by parting their roots, and plant-
ing them, as directed for thrift. They are indigenous, and bear our
summers and winters well.

Strawberries may be occasionally used, to make edgings for large
walks, and answer the double purpose, of pleasure and profit.

Where box-edgings want trimming, it should now be done, al-
though this is not the general season for clipping them; but not-
withstanding, when they appear in need of it, let them be hand-
somely dressed with a pair of garden shears, which will add mucfe
to their neatness.

Apbil.] flower-garden. 857

The Sisyrinchium, will bear trimming extremely well, and con-
tinue to produce flower-stems and flowers, notwithstanding.

Where any of the above edgings have, for want of care, grown
into rude disorder, they should be taken up, slipped, or divided, and
replanted in a close regular manner.

Tuberoses.

The Polianthea tuberosa, or Tuberose. It is said that this beau-
tiful flower, was first brought into Europe from the East Indies, by
Father Theophilus Minuti, and to have been cultivated by him at
Boisgencier, near Toulon, in France, about the year 1590. The
double flowering variety, was obtained from the seed, by Monsieur
Le Cour, of Leyden, in Holland; who, for many years, was so tena-
cious of the roots, even after he had propagated them in such plen-
ty, as to have more than he could plant, that he caused them to be
cut in pieces, to have the vanity of boasting, that he was the only
person in Europe that possessed this flower. It appears from Eve-
lyn's Kalendar, that it was cultivated in England in 1664; from
whence, no doubt, it was imported into America.

To have this fragrant flower in tolerable early perfection, you
may about the first of this month, or any time in March, plant a
few roots in pots of light rich mould, one in each, first stripping
off" the ofl"sets, for if these are left on, they will draw away a consi-
derable part of the nourishment, whereby the bloom will be greatly
weakened. The uplier part of the roots, when planted in iiots^
should only be covered about a quarter of an inch deep: imme-
diately plunge the pots to their rims in a hotbed, and give but
very little water, if any, until the plants are up and growing freely,
but afterwards, they will require a good supply. As the weather
gets warm, give them plenty of air, and also sufficient head-room,
till the middle of May; then, place them where designed to flower;
first tying the advancing stems, to small green painted sticks, to
prevent their being dashed about by the winds.

The time for planting these roots in the open ground is, in the
southern states, between the first and twentieth of this month, the
more northerly, the later; in the middle states, the last week in
April, or first ten days of May; and in the eastern states, between
the fifteenth and twentieth of May.

Prepare for them beds of rich sandy loam, which being well trench-
ed or dug, divest the roots of all the larger offsets, or of the whole,
if the flowers are the exclusive objects, and plant them in rows one
foot asunder, and eight inches distant from one another therein;
making small drills for their reception, and covering their crowns,
or upper parts, about an incli or an inch and a half deep, with fine
loose earth; they will require no further care, but to keep them
free from weeds, and to support their flower stems, till November,
when the roots are to be taken up, and managed as then directed,
except to cut off" the stems after the bloom is over. The offsets
are to be planted in like manner, but somewhat closer, to produce
blowing roots, for the ensuing season, as the old ones seldom flower
^vell the second year, though they will increase abundantly.

358 THE PLEASURE, OR [April.

Scarlet Amaryllis.

The .Amaryllis formosissima. Scarlet Amaryllis, or Jacobaea Lily,
is a flower of extraordinary beauty. The flower-stems are frequent-
ly produced towards the sides ot the bulbs, generally not more than
two, which rise successively, so that after the flower produced on
one is decayed, another stalk arises nearly opposite to succeed it;
but there is usually not more than one flower on the same stalk.
The flowers are large, and of a very deep red; the under petals
hang down, the upper curl up, and the whole flower stands nodding
on one side of the stalk, making a most beautiful and grand appear-
ance. Sometimes, but rarely, two flowers proceed from the same
spathe. It is a native of South America.

Its management and season of planting, is in every particular the
same as directed for the Tuberose: it flowers generally in about a
month after its being planted, and its bulbs do not ripen sufficiently
for taking up before November. It is increased by off"sets from the
roots, which are to be treated, as those of the tuberose. In order
to have a succession of the flowers, you may in the middle states,
plant some of their roots in the open ground, once a week, from the
twentieth of April to the middle of June. And if the roots are
strong and are preserved in saw dust, or the like, they will keep
good and blow well, even >yhen planted at that late period. How-
ever, the roots will not be so strong, the ensuing season, nor the
increase so numerous, as if they had been planted in due time.

These can be made to flower, during any of the winter months,
by planting some of the strongest bulbs, which were taken up in No-
vember and kept dry till the time of planting, in pots of light good
earth, and plunging them into the bark-pit in the Hot-house, or
into a good hot-bed: in a month or five weeks after, or sooner,
if the heat be regular and brisk, they will produce their very ad-
mirable flowers.

Geraniums, Myrtles, Balm of Gilead, Sfc.

For the methods of cultivating the above, and other Green-house
plants, see the article Green-house, in this month, and in March.

Gravel Walks.

New Gravel walks may be made any time this month; in the
making of which, be very particular in the choice of good and suit-
able gravel; as to colour, you must be governed by fancy and con-
venience, but as to quality, it should be coarse and lively, containing
a due proportion of light sandy loam, to make it bind close and
firm, at all seasons; but not so redundant in loam or clay, as to
stick to the feet in wet weather; nor so sandy, as to become open
and loose in dry weather. As to the dimensions and distribution of
gravel walks, see page 67, See. Agreeably to the designs there laid
down, or to any other fancy of your own, stake out the width of the

April.] FLOWER-GARDEN. 350

walk, and proceed to level the boundary on each side, corresponding
to the adjacent ground, and form the cavity of the walk for the re-
ception of the gravel; observing that the whole space, to make a
permanent and good walk, should be dug ten or twelve inches deep,
to allow for a proper depth of gravel, both to prevent weeds rising
from the ground below, and worms from casting up the earth there-
from; and also to allow a proper depth for turning the gravel,
occasionally, when the surface becomes foul: the earth dug out
from the cavity of the walk, may be used to raise and level any-
hollow parts on each side, or contiguously situated; which, with
the edgings, if of Box, should always be completed before you be-
gin to lay the gravel.

The walks being thus laid out, you may first lay any stony rub-
bish, such as brick-bats, small stones, &c. for several inches deep
in the bottom, which will greatly obstruct worm-casts, drain off
any extra moisfure, and thereby prevent the surface from becoming
mossy or foul: the proper gravel is then to be laid on, six or eight
inches thick; and as you proceed in laying, observe to rake off the
coarse parts into the bottom and to raise the middle of the walk,
higher than the sides in a gradual rounding form, just as much,
and no more, as is sufficient to carry off the wet to each side. The
proportion to be observed is, a walk of four feet wide should be one
inch and a half higher in the middle than at the sides, and for every
foot after, that such increases in width, add to this a quarter of an
inch for the centre elevation. Rounding the walk too much would
make it very uneasy to walk on, and of an unpleasing appearance.
Never lay more in one day than you can finish off and roll effectually.

Gravel walks should now, if not done in March, be broken up and
turned; for such turnings will not only destroy weeds and moss,
but will render them much more agreeable to walk on; besides,
the fresh and lively surface, will be sightly and pleasing.

Before you begin to turn the gravel, the edges of the walks, if
of grass, should be first neatly dressed with an edging'iron such
as described in page 78; or, if planted with box, they ought to be
handsomely trimmed with garden shears: any borders near the
walks should be neatly dug, and the surface raked smooth; for
when the edges and borders are put in proper order, they add
much to the general neatness. Proceed then to dig the walk five
or six inches deep, or whatever depth the fine gravel will admit of,
turning the surface clean to the bottom, and the fresh gravel be-
low to the top, rounding and dressing the walk neatly after you, and
rolling the whole effectually when done.

In turning or laying down gravel-walks, always choose dry wea-
ther and let the work be done in the most complete order; as these
contribute very materially to the beauty of the whole garden.

Roll the walks once a week regularly, after being either turned
or new laid; such will render them firm and neat, and also greatly
prevent the growth of weeds. It is a general rule among neat
gardeners, who are allowed sufficient help, to roll and sweep the
gravel-walks every Saturday. During the summer, it is of much

360 THE GREEN-HOUSE. [Apkil.

advantage to give a good rolling after rain, which will preserve a
compact smooth surface.

Grass Walks and Lawns.

Grass walks and lawns may yet be laid, in the middle and eastern
states, if done in the beginning of this month; but if delayed till
the weather becomes dry, it will scorch the turf and render the
surface disagreeable. For the method of laying and making them,
see pat2,e 3©4.

The Grass-walks and lawns should be well rolled, in the early
part of the month; and afterwards, as the grass advances in growth,
it should be mowed as often as the scythe can lay hold of it, for
this is a season in which most people delight to walk out; conse-
quently the walks ought to be kept in good order. Besides, were
this neglected in spring, the grass would become coarse and rank;
and be some time, before it could be restored to its proper texture.

Always mow this short grass when wet, either by dew or rain,
otherwise, it will be impossible to cut it close or even. For the ge-
neral care of grass-walks and lawns, see page 77.

The edges of all your lawns and grass-walks should now be neatly
cut, with an edging-iron, if omitted in last month;but this should
be particularly done to those edgings next gravel walks, always be-
fore the gravel is turned or newly laid on, and afterwards^ccasion-
ally.

Sticking and Trimming Flower-plants.

Examine all the beds and borders, and place convenient sticks to
such advancing plants, as require support; tying them neatly
thereto, which should be repeated, occasionally, as they progress in
growth. Let them be made or cut, in proportion to the usual heiglit
of each respective kind, for it is awkward tg see a tall stick set for
the support of a plant of humble growth.

Weeds.

Weeds of every kind both from roots and seeds, will now make
rapid progress: particular care must be taken to keep the beds and
borders free from them, as on this, in a great measure, depends
much of your success, and the beauty of your improvements.

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

Giving Mr to the Plants.

Many of the Green-house plants will now begin to shoot freely;
therefore, it will be necessary to give as much air as possible, con-
sistent with their safety. Open the windows every morning when

April.] THE GREEN-HOUSE. 361.

the weather is mild and calm, and let them continue so, till the cold
of the afternoon begins to increase; provided, that the air conti-
nues moderately warm all the time. Too much confinement at
this season, especially towards the end of the month, when the heat
of the weather increases, would do infinite injury to the plants in
general, but especially to the early shooting kinds; for if drawn up
weakly in the house, they would not be in so good a condition to
bear a removal into the open air in the early part of next month, as
if their vegetation had been retarded by the admission of a due and
salutary circulation of air, in the house, at a!l favourable opportuni-
ties.

Tfatering.

The plants will now require frequent waterings, giving only a
little at a time; but especially the oranges, lemons, myrtles, olean-
ders, African heaths, jasmins, coronillas, justicuis, arbutus, laurus-
tinus, and most of the woody kinds: and also the herbaceous green-
house exotics, will require to be occasionally refreshed with mode-
rate waterings.

Let the whole plants, »*i general, be often looked over, to see where
water is wanted, and let such as need it, be supplied therewith, ac-
cording to their i-espective necessities; for it is now an indispensa-
ble article. But moderation and discretion ought to be observed, iu
the dispensing of it, especially, while the plants are in the house,
and particularly to the succulent tribe The latter, such as Aloes,
Agaves, Euphorbias, Cactuses, Crassulas, Stapelias, Mesembryan-
themums. Sec. being naturally replete with moisture, do not require
much water; to those and other plants of the same nature, it should
be given, only when the earth in the pots appears very dry, as too
much would rot them.

Shifting Plants into larger Pots and Tubs.

Such of your plants as require to be shifted, into larger pots, or
tubs, may now be brought out in a mild warm day, and taken out of
the pots or tubs in which they have stood, with the balls of earth
entire, about their roots; then cut away such roots, on the outside,
as are matted or appear dry or decayed, and also, some of the earth
round the ball.

Having good, sound, fresh earth, in readiness, put some into each
new pot or tub, previously placing a hollow oyster shell, or such
like, with the concave side under, over each hole in the bottoms;
then set each plant, with its ball of earth, prepared and dressed as
above, into the middle of the pot or tub, and fill it up with fresh com-
post, so as that the new earth may cover the crowns of the roots,
an inch deeper than before.

According as the plants are thus potted, let them be immediate-
ly watered, and returned to their places in the green-house, admi-
nistering the water occasionally afterwards, as their respective ne-
cessities may require.

2Z

362 THE GREEN-HOUSt: [April.

Fresh Earthing the Plants.

Such of the plants, as do not require shifting into larger pots,
Sec. should be refreshed with new earth, as directed in page 308;
after which, give them a moderate watering and replace them in the
green-house, as before. ^

Trimming and Cleaning the Flants.

Where any decayed, straggling, or ill placed branches appear,
either cut them off close, or prune them, so as to give the plants a
neat and becoming form.

Pick off all decayed leaves as they appear, and suffer no weeds
of any kind to grow in the pots; keep them free from moss, Sec. by
stirring the surface earth frequently: wash and clean the floor of the
green-house, and let every thing in and about it, appear neat and
lively.

Where any large leaved kinds have contracted foulness, wash
them, one by one, with a spunge dipped in soft water; the small
leaved sorts, may be taken out of the house, in a warm day, and
water poured over them, out of a watering pot, which will not only
wash off the dust, but greatly refresh themj then replace them as
before.

Heading down Shrubby Plants.

Myrtles, oranges, lemons, geraniums, and several other woody
plants, that have got into a bad state of health, may now be headed
down; observing, that any of the budded kinds, should not be cut
off, below where they were worked, except in cases of absolute ne-
cessity; that is, when the wood is either dead so far, or in such a
state, that no hopes remain of its producing new shoots; under such
circumstances, you may head them down to the fresh wood.

By this means they will put out plenty of strong shoots, near,
or from the stems, and form full regular heads, in two or three
months.

Shifting or fresh earthing the plants, as before directed, will be
necessary upon this occasion.

Inarching.

Towards the latter part of the month, you may inarch oranges,
lemons, citrons, limes, shaddocks, pomegranates, and almost every
other kind of shrubby plants, agreeable to the directions given in
page 257.

By way of curiosity, or as required, you may inarch a branch of
an orange, or lemon tree, that has young fruit on it, on one of the
common seedling stocks: it will be well united by the end of Au-
gust, when it may be separated from the mother plant, in a full bear-
ing state.

April.] THE GREEN-HOUSE. 36 g

Sowing Seeds of Green-House Plants, Sfc.

As early in this month as possible, sow the seeds of Geraniums,
myrtles, oleanders, coronxllas, lemons, oranges, balm of Gilead,
Aloes, Cannas, Buddlcias and Cactuses; Callicarpa, Caparis, Cel-
cias Mimosas, Mesembryanthemums, Centaureas and Chrysoco-
mas; Cinerias, Cistuses, Coluteas, Cyclamens, Dolichoses, Ericas
and Euphorbias; Ferrarias, Gardenias, Genistas, Heliotropiums,
Indigoferas, and Lyciums; Melias, Melianthuses, Oleas, Passiflo-
ras, Solanums, and Proteas, Salvias, Silenes, Spartiums, Teucriums,
Yuccas, and Xeranthemiims, with many others. For the method of
sowing them, see page 308. Many kinds will not vegetate for two,
three, four or six months, and some, not sooner than twelve; there-
fore, attend the pots carefully, and your patience and trouble, will
be ultimately rewarded.

Propagating Green-house Plants by Cuttings, Suckers and
Layers, Sfc.

There are few shrubby plants, but may be propagated by layers;
these should be laid in the pots or tubs, agreeably to the methods
directed in page 287.

Suckers may now be taken off, where they appear, and be planted
in separate pots, or several small ones, in the same pot.

The far greater number of all the green-house plants, may now
be plentifully propagated by cuttings or slips; such as Laurusti-
nus, myrtles. Geraniums, Balm of Gilead, and Fuschia coccinea;
Jasmines, Gardinias, Hydrangeas, English and Portugal Laurels;
Oleanders, Passion-flowers, Justicias, Lagerstrcemia, Heliotropiums,
Coronillas and Melianthuses; Acuba and Camilla Japonica, Budd-
leias, Solanums, Teucriums, Proteas, and Salvias, with almost every
other kind, if planted in hot-beds, and carefully shaded and water-
ed. Such as do not root freely, should have bell-glasses placed over
them, in the hot-bed till rooted; this is the most effectual way to
insure the growth of many hard-wooded kinds.

The roots of herbaceous kinds, may now be separated and plant-
ed in different pots, for increase; the succulent kinds, may also
be propagated by slips, cuttings, and suckers, such as Cactuses,
Stapelias, Mesembryanthemums, Sec. The succulent sorts should
not be planted, for a few days after having been taken off, that the
wounds may heal; during which time, they may lie on a shelf in
the green-house, and when fit, plant them in pots of good sandy
earth.

The young orange and lemon stocks, raised last year, for bud-
ding, should now, if not done before, be planted into separate and
suitable sized pots; and if then plunged in a hot-bed, till they have
taken fresh root, it will greatly promote their growth. Some of
the strongest will, probably, be of sufficient size to bud in August,
and all of them at that time twelve months.

364 1'^^ HOT-HOUSE. [April,

Cape Bulbs.

Many of the Cape Bulbs, mentioned in page 167, will be now in
flower; they should all be kept in the front parts of the green-
house, and have plenty of air; without which, they will spindle up
and never show either strong or brilliant flowers; such as are in
blow however, are, when the sun shines too powerfully on them, to
bcr for the moment, removed out of its rays, or it will facilitate their
decline.

THE HOT-HOUSE.

Pine Jlpples.

In this month it will be easy to distinguish, which of the
Pines are likely to produce the best fruit; this is not always com-
mon to the largest plants. A few of the most promising being
marked, a small iron rod, made with a sharp angular point, may be
thrust down the centre of each sucker arising therefrom, which be-
ing turned two or three times round, will drill out the heart and pre-
vent its growth. Thus the plants, being sufficiently supplied with
water, and having nothing to support but the fruit, will sometimes
grow amazingly large. But this method is not to be practised on
too many plants, as it would be attended with the entire loss of all
"the suckers.

Waterijig the Pines.

In the West Indies, where Pines grow in the greatest perfection,
rains are very unfrequent, during the period that this fruit is com-
ing to maturity, but the dews are remarkably heavy; therefore it
is principally supplied with moisture from the latter; in imitation
of which, you should raise artificial dews, in the hot-house, by wa-
tering the walks and flues frequently, in dry weather. This will
be found extremely beneficial, not only to the Pine Apple, but to all
other plants, which are natives of similar climates; and by this
management, they will require much less water, than they other-
wise would. However, regular waterings, taking care to give but a
little at a time, just to keep the earth moderately moist, will be ne-
cessary.

lop and Bottom Heat.

Continue to support the requisite heat in the hot-house, by aid
of moderate evening fires, and a constant good heat in the bark-bed;

April] THE HOT-HOUSE. 365

the fruiting plants, in particular, will require this. If the bark was
not turned and fresh tan added thereto, in March, it should be done
in the first week of this month, as there directed. But if then at-
tended to, there is no necessity for it now, as the pit will yet con-
tinue to be in excellent order.

Mmitting Air.

Air should now be admitted in proportion to the increasing heat
of the season; a great deal depends on this article; for without due
attention to its utility and great influence on the plants, they may,
if deprived of a sufficiency, be soon rendered of little value.

Every warm, sunny day, when the wind is not cold, let some of
the glasses or lights, be opened a little way, and more in propor-
tion to the heat of the day; but this should not be done before nine
or ten o'clock in the morning, and tliey ought not to be continued
open longer, than while the air in the house keeps up to a proper
degree of warmth.

Towards the end of the month, you will find that a sufficiency of
air cannot be admitted by the upright glasses; therefore, it will be
very necessary, to have your roof lights constructed so as to slide
up and down, by means of pullies. Seventy or seventy-two degrees
of Fahrenheit, will be a good medium for sun-heat; but always
when it rises above that, give abundance of air, and in the early
part of the month, this is done with more safety, by sliding open a
stifficient number of the roof-lights.

Succession Pines.

The succession pines, especially those intended for fruiting next
season, should be shifted as early in this month as pessible, if not
done in March. For the method of doing it, and the manner of
treating them after, see page SIO.

The crowns and suckers of last season, should now, also, be shift-
ed into larger pots, and managed in like manner.

Treatment of the other various Stove Plants.

The general treatment directed for the pines, may be given in
common, to most other stove plants. With respect to shifting, or
adding fresh earth to the pots, that should now be done in the same
manner as directed for the green-house plants; after which, if
there be room in the bark-bed, let the pots I)e immediately plunged
to their rims therein; and by the assistance of the kindly heat, the
plants will root freely in the new earth, which will give them
strength, promote their health, revive their colour, and prepare
them the better, for a removal, into the open air, towards the end
of next month.

The woody kinds will now require frequent and gentle waterings;
the herbaceous, occasionally; but the succulent sorts, should get

366 THE HOT-HOUSE. [Apeil.

only a little, now and then, as the earth in the pots seems to stand
in need of it.

When any of the stove plants have contracted much dust or
other foulness, such must be cleaned off immediately; all decayed
leaves should constantly be picked away, and the utmost cleanness
preserved in all the house.

Where insects appear on the pines, or on any of the other plants,
immediate attention ought to be paid to the destruction of them;
for in a short time, if neglected, they would overrun the house and
ruin many of the plants. For the methods of extirpating them, see
article Hot-house for February, page 168, 8cc.

The paying of due attention to all the plants, giving them suita-
ble care and culture, preserving them in good health, and keeping
the house constantly clean, and the plants free from decayed leaves
and filth, is the surest method of not being much troubled with in-
sects.

Fropagating various Stove Exotics.

You may now propagate by cuttings, layers, suckers, or seeds,
the various plants of this department. Plant the cuttings in pots,
' plunge them in the bark-bed, and the kinds that grow by that me-
thod, which are very numerous, will strike root freely; and indeed
there are very few sorts but may be cultivated in this way, if cover-
ed close for some time with bell-glasses, to preserve a moist at-
mosphere around them, till they establish themselves in the earth,
and are able to draw therefrom, a sufficient supply of juices, to re-
place those which might be exhaled by the open dry air.

You may in like manner, strike cuttings of many sorts of green-
house plants, and of any curious and valuable shrubs, of the open
ground departments.

Sow seeds of all hot-house plants, that you are able to procure,
and wish to cultivate; let them be sown in pots, and if room can
be had, plunge these in the bark-bed, give them occasional water-
ing and you may expect many kinds to come up shortly, and seve-
ral others not for months. The laying of panes of glass over these
pots, will facilitate the growth of the seeds, by opposing the ascend-
ing moisture, and retaining it about the surface of the earth; but
bell-glasses would more effectually answer this end.

Care oj several Fruiting, Floivering, and Esculent Plants in the

Stove.

Pay due attention to the regular watering, of the strawberries,
kidney-beans, cucumbers, and flowers, now forcing in the stove;
and early in the month, introduce others to succeed them.

Continue to keep the grape-vines, now fruiting, free from all
unnecessary shoots, and such as are produced from the axillas of
the leaves, S;c. and train the others, close and regular.

367
MAY.

WORK TO BE DONE IN THE KITCHEN-GARDEN.

Early Melons and Cucumbers.

THE early melons will now shew fruit abundantly; they must
have plenty of air, and protection from the mid-day sun; for a
few hours sunshine at this season, if the glasses were close shut,
would destroy the whole crop. The lights should be taken off, and
the plants fully exposed to the open air, about the twentieth or to-
wards the end of the month; therefore the plants ought to be pre-
viously and gradually inured thereto. Should the beds happen to be
greatly declined in heat, about the first of this month, a fresh lining
of hot dung ought to be applied; for at this period of their fruiting, a
brisk bottom heat is necessary to the free swelling of the fruit.
The advantage of this, will soon appear very evident. A slight
covering ought to be kept over the glasses every night, till about
the tenth of the month, after which, they will need it no longer;
these should be taken off early every morning, for light, and plenty
of air, will now be absolutely necessary.

According as the melons set, place a piece of board or shingle
under each fruit; this will preserve them from the damp of )he
earth.

About the middle of the month the frames may be raised, by
means of any kind of support at the corners, and the plants be suf-
fered to run out under them, and by the end thereof, you may take
them totally away.

A regular supply of water will be very necessary; and although
melons do not require as much of it as cucumbers, yet a sufficiency
must be given.

The early cucumbers, will now be in full fruiting, and will re-
quire plenty of air and water; they may be fully exposed to the
open air, in the middle states, about the twentieth of the month, and
in the eastern states, about the end thereof.

Making Hot-bed Ridges for Cucumbers and Melons.

The cucumbers and melons, which were sown last month, or
late in March, may in the first week of this, be planted in hot-bed
ridges, as directed in page 313; or, the seeds may be sown thereon,
in the following manner.

l^he ridges being made and earthed as directed in April, page
313, mark out the holes for the seed, four feet asunder, and in form
of a shallow bason, about an inch deep, and nine or ten inches wide.
In the middle of each, sow eight or nine seeds, and then put on bell
or hand-glasses. After the plants have been up ten or twelve days,

368 THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [May.

they must be thinned, leaving only three of the strongest in each
hole, drawing a little earth about their stems, and giving a light
watering, to settle it close to the roots.

When the plants have two rough leaves, they must be slopped
or topped, as directed in page 121, which see. This operation is
very necessary to throw them into a fruiting state, before they run
too much into vine.

As the plants advance in growth, they must have gentle and fre-
quent waterings, and plenty of air admitted, by the raising of the
glasses on props; under which, suffer them to run out, as they in-
crease in growth. The glasses may be totally taken off about the
end of the month.

Solving Melons and Cucumbers, in the open Ground.

About the tenth of this month will be a good time, in the middle
states, to sow a general crop of Melons, in the open ground; from
a week to a month earlier, to the southward, according to the re-
spective situations; and between the fifteenth and twentieth, in the
eastern states. It is remarked that musk and water melons, cu-
cumbers, pumpkins, squashes, gourds, and all the varieties of these
families, may be sown, at the periods in which people g^etierally
plant Indian corn; but in order to have them as early as possible
in the open ground, a few patches may be sown ten days or more,
before the dates above mentioned; which with good care may suc-
ceed very well, especially if the season proves favourable.

For the varieties of the Musk or Cantaleupe Melons, prepare a
piece of rich sandy ground, well exposed to the sun; manure it and
give it a good digging, then mark it out into squares of six feet
every way; at the angle of every square, dig a hole twelve inches
deep and eighteen over, into which put seven or eight inches deep,
of old hot-bed dung; or very rotten manure; ihrow thereon about
four inches of earth, and mix the dung and earth well with the
spade, after which, draw the remainder of the earth, over ihe mixture
so as to form a round hill, about a foot broad at top. Some people
use hot stable dung, under an idea that its heat would promote the
vegetation of the seed; this is a mistaken notion, as in a few hours
it loses all it had, for want of a sufficient quantity being together,
to promote fermentation, and becomes a dryish wisp, unfit, at least,
for the present, to afford either heat or nourishment to the plants.

When your hills are all prepared as above, plant in each, towards
the centre, eight or nine grains of good melon seed, distant two in-
ches from one another, and cover them about half an inch deep.

When the plants are up and in a state of forwardness, producing
their rough leaves, they must be thinned to two or three in each
hill; the extra number in some, may serve to fill up deficiencies in
others: draw earth, from time to time, round the hills, and as high
about the roots of the plants as the seed leaves; when fit, stop them
as directed in page 122; after which, keep the ground, by frequent
hoeings, perfectly free from weeds.

May.] the KITCHEN-GARDEN, 369

Squashes.

Squashes of every kind, may be cultivated as directed for cucum-
bers and melons, should be sown at the same time, and at similar
distances ; with this difference, that two plants of these, will be plen-
ty for each hill, and that they are easier pleased in soil, and prepa-
ration, than the others.

Water Melons.

In order to have water melons in good perfection, you must fix
upon a piece of very light, rich, sandy soil; prepare, sow, and ma-
nage it, in every respect, as directed for cucumbers and melons^
only let the hills be nine or ten feet distant every way.

Pumpkins and Gourds.

Pumpkins will require to be ten feet distant hill from hill, two or
three plants will be sufficient in each, they are not so tenacious of a
particular soil as either melons or cucumbers, but will grow freely
in any dry and tolerably rich ground; they are to be sown at the
same time as directed for sowing melons and cucumbers in the open
ground; and should be kept constantly clean and free from weeds.

The various kinds of gourds, which are more cultivated for orna-
ment than use, may be sown where they can be trained to trellises,
fences, walls, or to cover arbours.

When you intend to cultivate either melons, cucumbers, squashes,
pumpkins, or the like kinds, on a large or extensive scale, you can
prepare the ground with a plough, which will save much labour;
and also, afterwards, as the weeds advance, plough and harrow,
between the plants till they begin to run, after which, the hoe must
be used.

• Sweet Potatoes.

The Convolvulus Batatas, or sweet potatoe, is a native of both
Indies, also of China, Cochin-china, &c. But it is affirmed that it
was unknown in the Philippine and Molucca islands, before the
Spaniards brought it there. In Amboina, Banda, Ternate, Sec. the
inhabitants add Castela to the name, as having received it from the
Castilians or Spaniards. It was first brought into Spain from the
West-Indies, or Spanish Main, and was there cultivated, long before
the Solanum tuberosum^ or common potatoe, was known in Europe.

The sweet potatoe requires a very light, sandy, and tolerably
rich soil, to bring it to good perfection. The time to plant it, in
the middle states, is the first ten days in May; or more generally
it is planted about the eighth or tenth of the month. It is remarked
that the earlier and more forward crops, are always most produc-
tive and best for eating; and several people to accomplish this end,
first sprout them in hot-beds, and then plant them out in the fol-
lowing manner.

3 A

370 THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [Mat.

The ground being first well pulverized by ploughing and har-
rowing, 8cc. is afterwards laid out by the plough in squares, of four
or five feet each, and at the intersections of the scores or furrows,
hills are made, in the manner directed for melons and cucumbers, in
page 368; into each of these, one or two good sets are planted, and
covered about an inch deep, or a little better; as they advance in
growth the hills are enlarged by drawing the earth up round them
with a hoe; or, by first cross ploughing the ground, harrowing it
with a very narrow harrow, and then finishing and rounding the
hills with a broad hoe. They ought to be kept constantly free from
weeds, and the frequent enlargement of the hills, will encourage the
growth and increase the number of roots.

When they are cultivated upon a small scale, in gardens, all this
work may be performed with a spade and hoe.

Indian Corn.

The Zea Mays, or Indian corn, is frequently required from the
gardener, for early use. For this purpose, procure some seed of the
earliest kind, and select a piece of dry, sandy, and tolerably rich
ground, in a warm exposure. After preparing it as if for peas, &c.
form shallow drills about two inches deep, at the distance of six feet
from each other; drop the seed therein two feet and a half asunder,
and two grains in each place; strew a little wood-ashes in the drills,
then cover the seed as you would peas. As the plants advance in
growth, earth them up two or three times. For an early crop,
you may plant the seed, in the middle states, about the first of this
month, or ten days earlier should the season prove very favour-
able.

This method is exclusively intended for the garden culture, of
the small early kinds.

Early Canlijlowers.

The early cauliflower plants, as they advance'in growth, should
have the earth drawn up about their stems, and in dry weather be
occasionally watered; which will cause the heads to grow to a much
greater size, than they otherwise would.

Towards the latter end of the month, the plants will begin to shew
their flowers, when they should frequently be looked over, and as
these appear in an advanced growth, not before, let some of the
largest leaves be broke down over them, to defend them from sun
and wet, whereby they will be preserved in their natural colour, firm-
ness and beauty; for if left fully exposed to the weather, it would
change their peculiar whiteness, to a yellowish hue, and occasion
them to open sooner, than if treated in this manner.

Planting Cauliflowers.

The plants from the late spring sowings, should now, according
as they arrive at a sufficient size, be planted out as directed in page

May.] the KITCHEN-GARDEN. g7i

314. Very few of these will produce flowers till October, but then,
you may expect some fine heads.

Sowing Caulijlower Seed.

You may now sow cauliflower seed, for a late crop. Should the
plants from this sowing, not produce heads before November, they
are then to be taken up and managed as directed in that month;
by which means, they will continue to produce fine flowers all win-
ter, when such will be very acceptable.

Cabbages.

Draw earth about the stems of your early cabbages, and all others
that are advanced in growth; this will strengthen them considerably,
and cause them to produce fine large heads.

The earliest will, towards the middle or latter part of this month,
begin to form their heads; when they may be greatly forwarded in
their whitening, by tying their leaves together. For this purpose,
get some strong bass, or small osier twigs, go over the plants row
by row, and tie such as begin to turn their leaves inward for head-
ing; first gathering all the leaves up regularly: do not, however,
bind them too close, for that would occasion their rotting.

This method may be practised with a few early plants, but by no
means, with the principal crop; as those treated in that way, never
produce such large and firm heads as they would if left to nature:
however, market gardeners, may derive some advantage from it, as
the early produce will always command the highest price.

Continue to plant out your spring cabbage plants, for autumn
and winter use agreeably to the directions given in page 316. Plant
also, at this time, a full crop of red pickling cabbage and savoys. All
these will require an open situation; they never thrive or head
well near trees, walls, or shade of any kind, and the richer your
ground, the larger sized heads will you have. You may plant some
between rows of forward kidney-beans, and other low growing crops,
which will occupy the ground when those are off.

Let all be planted out, if possible, in moist or cloudy weather, and
immediately after, give each a little water, unless the ground is al-
ready sufficiently saturated.

Sow now some early York, sugarloaf and other close quick-heart-
ing kinds, for summer and autumn use; likewise savoys, large
drum-head, flat-dutch, and any other of the large late heading sorts,
for autumn and winter cabbages, and also some of the red pickling
cabbage. Sow these seeds as directed in page 316; and transplant
young advancing seedlings, into beds as there directed, watering
them inn»uediately, and giving them shade for a few days if neces-
sary.

Sowing Borecole.

Ydu may now sow a principal crop of green and red curled Bore-
cole, for autumn, winter, and spring use; for an account of which,
see pages 192. and 317.

372 THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. {'Mat.

By sowing the seed early, you will have tall strong stems, and
large bushy heads, sometimes growing to the height of four feet;
but the largest are always obtained from the spring sowings; how-
ever, it is usual to continue sowing successive crops of them to the
end of July.

The seed should be sown, in beds of open ground, tolerably thin
and covered lightly or raked in regularly. In dry weather it will
be of use to water the beds occasionally, both before and after the
plants are up. When about three inches high, it will be proper to
thin the seed-bed, and prick out a quantitv therefrom, at four inches
distance, that the whole may obtain proper strength for final trans-
planting.

Towards the end of the month, those sown in April, should be
planted out into beds of rich sandy soil, in the manner directed for
cabbages, at three feet distance every way, and afterwards be kept
free from weeds and the earth drawn to their stems as they advance
in growth. Those intended for winter use should never be planted,
in a rich fat loam; as there, they would become too-succulent, and
consequently, could not bear the frost, as well as if growing on a
gravelly soil. Such as are designed for autumn use, may be plant-
ed in any convenient open bed, that is tolerably rich.

Brussels'' Sprouts and Jerusalem Kale.

The Brussels' sprouts and Jerusalem Kale, are both cultivated
in the same manner, at the same time, and for similar purposes, as
the Borecole. They may be now sown and treated like the latter,
with this difference, that two feet or rather two and a half, will be
a sufficient distance for the final transplanting of the Jerusalem
Kale, as it never grows as tall as either of the other kinds.

Turnep Cabbage and Turnep Rooted Cabbage.

For an account of both these varieties, see page 317. The seeds
of the turnep cabbage may now be sown and the plants afterwards
treated as directed for cabbages; only observing not to earth them
up above the swelling bulb on the stem. The turnep rooted kind,
should be sown on a bed of strong rich ground, as you would tur-
neps, and treated like them in every respect; observing, to thin
the plants with the hoe, when advancing in growth, to the distance
of about sixteen inches apart. Their roots will be much larger and
better, when treated in this way, than if transplanted.

The early sown plants, of the former kind, may now be planted
out, and afterwards treated as above observed.

Broccoli.

The early sown broccoli plants, should now be planted out into
beds of good rich earth, in an open situation; the purple kind at
two feet and a half distance, every way, and the white at the distance
of three feet.

May.] the KITCHEN-GARDEN. 373

Broccoli seeds of both these kinds, as well as of any other variety
•which you would wish to cultivate, should be sown early in this
month for a second principal crop, for winter and spring use. Sow
them in a bed or border of rich earth, in an open exposufe, each
kind separate and rake them in regularly.

In the middle and eastern states, where the frost is too powerful,
for the standing out of these plants during winter, on its approach,
they must be taken up, and planted in earth up to their leaves,
either in cellars, or under sheds, where they can be protected
from wet and very rigorous frosts, and they will continue to produce
their fine heads, during all the winter months; which are equal to
any cauliflowers. On the opening of spring, plant out the stalks of
of the purple kind, and they will produce abundance of the most
delicious sprouts; the white do not answer for that purpose.

These plants even if hung up in a cellar, would shoot forth their
flowers or heads, pretty much about their usual time. For a more
particular account of them, see page 318.

Management of Beans in Blossom.

The early Mazagan, long-podded, Windsor, and all the varieties
of that species of bean, should be topped, when arrived at full
bloom and the lower pods beginning to set; this will greatly pro-
mote the swelling of the pods, as well as their early maturity; for,
having no advancing tops to nourish, their whole efforts must go to
the support of the fruit.

This should be performed on the beans in general, which are
now in full blossom; observing to let the stems be first advanced
to such a due height, as to have a sufficient quantity of puds; the
early Mazagan bean may be topped when about two feet high, and
the larger sorts when from about two feet and a half or yard, to
three and a half high, according to the growth of the diff"erent va-
rieties, and may be done with a finger and thumb.

But with respect to the small early beans, if you would have them
come in as soon as possible, you should top them when the blos-
soms at the bottom of rhe stalks begin to open.

Be very particular to earth up the stems of your beans, two or
three times in the course of their growth; as this is absolutely ne-
cessary to their good success, and plentiful production.

Sowing Peas.

To have a regular supply of peas, let some be sown at least twice
in this month; but where a constant succession is wanted, three or
four sowings will be necessary.

The best sorts to sow now are the marrowfats. Glory of England,
Spanish morotto, green and white rouncivals, Imperial, and Sugar
Poland, these being the finest and largest sorts; likewise any of
the hotspur kinds, and Prussian blue, &c. those that are sown any
time in this month will yield toleral^ly good crops.

374 THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [May.

The earlier in the month, however, that those or any other kinds
of peas are sown, the more abundantly will they produce.

You may now sow some of the tall sugar peas, as directed in
page 319, to which, and its preceding page, I refer you for more
general instructions on this subject.

Sow, early in the month, the dwarf sugar and dwarf Spanish peas,
and also, Leadman's dwarf, as directed in page 318. These are
all very delicious, great bearers, and do not require slicks, particu-
larly, the two former: and when sown at this season, are generally,
more productive than the taller growing kinds.

Hoe and earth up the peas, which were sown in April; this will
greatly strengthen them and promote a plentiful bearing; and also,
pay due attention to the sticking or placing pea-rods, to the young
rising crops, as soon as they have attained the height of five or six
inches. There is a great advantage in allowing sticks of a suitable
height, to the various kinds; for the produce is, generally, not only
much superior, but by far more abundant, often to more than double
the quantity, produced by those that are permitted to trail on the
ground. The sticks should, not only be sufficiently tall, but also
branchy, that the plants may readily take hold; and they should be
prepared fan fashion, so as the side branches may extend only along
the rows.

They should be placed when in single rows, on the sunny side of
the drills, as the plants will naturally incline that way, and more
readily lay hold of the sticks: or there may be double rows of sticks
placed to them, as directed in page 187.

Transplanting Lettuce.

Take advantage of moist weather, to transplant such of those
sown in the two former months, as are now fit for it. The ground
should be fully exposed, not encumbered with trees, or near any
kind of shade whatever; for these plants never form good heads
in such situations, but start to seed immediately.

Dig the ground neatly and rake the surface smooth, then dibble
in the plants, in rows, ten or twelve inches asunder, and near the
same distance from one another in the rows; water them immediate-
ly and repeat it occasionally till they have taken good root.

Such as are intended to remain for heading, where sown, should
now be thinned to about ten or twelve inches distance, every way,
and those growing among other general crops, ought not to be left
nearer to each other than three feet.

Sowing Lettuce Seed.

Lettuce seed of various good kinds, should be sown two or three
times this month, that there may be a constant and regular supply
of this very wholesome vegetable. The white Silicia, Grand Ad-
miral, India, Aleppo, Imperial, Large Royal, and green Egyptian
Cos, are very proper kinds to sow now; the Aleppo and Egyptian
Cos, do not head like the other kinds, but if tied up as you do endive,

May.] the KITCHEN-GARDEN. 375

they will blanch beautifully y and are extremely crisp and delicious.
The white and brown Dutch, Mogul, New-Zealand, and large cab-
bage kinds, are excellent sorts, and will succeed well if sown in the
early part of this month.

An open situation roust be chosen, in which to sow the seeda; the
ground should be light and rich, and each sort sown separately and
very thin; for if drawn up close in the seed bed, they will never
head well.

The beds wherein these are sown, should be frequently refreshed
with water, in dry weather, to promote the vegetation of the seeds,
and encourage the growth of the young plants.

Tying up early Lettuces.

The various kinds of Cos or Roman lettuce, which are now be,-
ginning to gather and whiten in the heart, should be tied up with
strings of bass, which will forward their whitening, and render them
crisp and tender for eating; but this must be done, only by degrees,
or as they are wanted, for it greatly promotes their shooting to
seed.

Sowing small Sallading'

Sow a variety of small sallading every week or ten days, for these,
at this season, shoot on to seed very rapidly; such as cresses or
pepper-grass, lettuce, rape, radish, mustard, 8cc, Sow the seeds
in shallow drills on shady borders, cover them lightly, and give
them occasional waterings,

Kidney-Beans.

A principal crop of Kidney-beans should be planted, in the first
week of this month, and successional crops, about the middle, and
also towards the end thereof.

Any of the dwarf kinds may now be planted; such as the black,
brown, or red speckled; yellow, cream-coloured, negro, canter-
bury, white, Dutch, and Battersea dwarfs. The cream-coloured,
brown, speckled, yellow, and white, are the earliest sorts, and should
be particularly chosen for the first crop.

Select for these, a piece of light rich ground, for in such they will
always be most productive. Let drills be made for them, with a
hoe, about two feet and a half asunder, and an inch and a half deep;
drop the beans therein, at the distance of two or three inches from
one another, draw the earth evenly over them, and rake the surface
lightly to give the bed a n6at appearance.

These, upon a more extensive scale, may be cultivated to great
advantage, and to the saving of much labour, by the plough; in
which culture, the rows will require to be three or four feet asun-
der, for the convenience of ploughing and harrowing between them,
fbt- the destruction of weeds, and also for the landing of them with
that instrument.

376 1'HE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [May.

The various kinds of running or climbing kidney-beans, may also,
now be sown in drills, made four or five feet asunder, and the seeds
planted double the distance from one another of the dvi^arf sorts.
The large white Dutch, common white, and cream-coloured run-
ners, are excellent sorts for this purpose; they are very productive,
boil well, and eat very lender.

When the plants come up, and begin to push their runners, then
let some tall sticks, or poles, be placed to each row, for them to
climb upon. The runners will soon catch hold, and twine them-
selves naturally round the sticks or poles, to the height of eight or
ten feet, or more; or if some are planted in a row close against a wall,
or any high fence or building, you may suspend strong pack-thread
from above, six inches distance, fastened tight at both ends, the
lower of which may be tied lo the main stem of the beans; and the
runners will readily ascend round the strings.

The Scarlet runner, though in Europe considered one of the best
bearers, and very good for the table, is here, neither productive nor
esteemed; and is cultivated exclusively, for the beauty of its flowers,
and for covering arbours, Sec.

Carolina and Lima Beans.

What is commonly called the Carolina bean, is only a small and
early variety of the Lima bean: it may be planted in the first week
of this month, or in the last of April, if a favourable season, and the
ground sandy and dry; they may be cultivated in the same manner
as above directed for the running kidney-beans: or, in hills, as they
are called, at the distance of four feet every way; planting five or
six good beans in each hill, a few inches apart, and covering them
about an inch and a half deep. When the plants are up a few
inches, or before, if more convenient, place two or three tall poles
to each hill for them to climb on, and as they advance in growth,
draw the earth round the hills up to their stems.

The Lima beans, should not be sown, in the middle states, be-
fore the first week of this month, when vegetation is very brisk;
for they are very subject to rot, if planted in cold weather, especial-
ly if the ground be replete with much moisture.

They delight in a light, sandy, and tolerably rich soil; and should
be planted in hills, as directed for the Carolina beans, but at the
distance of six feet or upwards, hill from hill, four or five beans in
each; and the poles for their support ought to be strong and near
ten feet high. They are very productive, will continue bearing,
till overtaken by the frost, and are extremely delicious.

Radishes.

Hoe, or weed and thin, the advancing crops of radishes, as di-
rected in page 320; and continue to sow a fresh supply every two
weeks, as at this time, they soon shoot to seed after growing to any
tolerable size.

May.] the KITCHEN-GARDEN. 377

The salmon-coloured, white Naples, and white turnep-rooted, are
the best kinds to sow now; you may likewise, sow some of the
white Spanish radish, they bear the warm weather, rather better
than the other kinds, but are not so crisp and tender. The purple
and short-top kinds, will yet do very well.

At this season these seeds must be sown, in an open exposure,
on beds of rich loose loamy earth, for if on a clay or gravelly soil,
they would become sticky and good for nothing: in order to have
them crisp and nice, they should be frequently watered in dry wea-
ther.

Planting Radishes for Seed.

Transplant radishes for seed when the roots are just in their
prime: if showery weather, it will be a particular advantage.

Choose for this purpose, some of the best kinds, long, perfectly
straight rooted, and with short tops; having also regard to the co-
lour of the root, that is, if of ihe purple, or short topped kind, those
that are of a clear pale red are preferable, as they generally eat
more crisp and mild, than such as are of a darker colour.

When intended to save seed of the salmon I'adish, always prefer
the best and brightest coloured roots, to preserve the kind in its
purity, ant; particularly those that have the shortest tops.

The principal reason why radishes for seed are directed to be
transplanted is, that, having drawn up a quantity for that purpose,
you can the more readily judge of the goodness of the roots, taking
only what are of the right sort, otherwise, the transplanting of them
would be unnecessary, and those not so treated, would produce a
much greater quantity of seed.

Plant the roots by dibble, in rows four feet asunder, in an open
situation, one foot from each other in the row, and give them a
good watering immediately after.

Select, also, some of the best formed white and red turnep-rooted
radishes, of moderate growth, hoe the others out and let these re-
main for seed; or if necessity requires, you may transplant them;
in that case; plant the bulbs or roots entirely in the earth, leaving
the tops free and then water them.

Spinach.

When spinach is required in continuation, some of the round
leaved sort may be sown in a cool moist loamy soil, every eight or
ten days; for during the summer months, it starts to seed imme-
diately.

Weed and thin the spinach sown last month, especially, what had
been sowed in the broad cast way; and of your early crops, both
of the round-leaved, and prickly-seeded kinds, leave a sufficiency of
the best plants for seed.

Sowing Carrots.

Carrots may yet be sown, especially, in the eastern states,
with a good prospect of success, if done in the first week of thU

3B

378 THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [May.

month, and even in the middle states, if the season is any way back-
ward. For the proper soil and method of sowing them, &c. see
pages 190 and 321.

Cleaning and thinning Carrots and Parsneps.

Carrots and parsneps will now be advancing fast in their growth,
and should be properly encouraged: clear ihem fiom weeds, and
thin the plants out to due distances.

This work may be done either by hand or hoe; but, for extensive
crops particularly, small hoeing is the preferable method, as being
the most expeditious, and by loosening the surface of the ground
with the hoe, it will greatly promote the free growth of the plants.

Whatever method is pursued, it will be necessary to free the
plants from weeds, and to thin them to proper distances, that they
may have full liberty to grow and enlarge their roots. The gene-
ral crops of carrots should be thinned to about six or seven inches,
plant from plant, and the parsneps to from eight to ten, in order
that each kind should attain its utmost perfection.

Such crops of carrots, however, as are intended to be drawn gra-
dually for the table, while young, need not be thinned at first, to
more than four or five inches distance, as the frequent pulling up of
some, for table use, will in a little time afford the others sufficient
room to grow large. But the main crops, should be thinned at once
to the proper distances.

Pricking out and Planting Celery.

Some of the early celery plants, from the seed-beds, should now
be pricked out, to obtain strength previous to a final planting in
trenches; by this method those left in the beds will have room to
grow strong and stout. They should be planted at the distance of
three inches from one another, in beds of rich loose earth, watered
immediately, and afterwards occasionally, till growing freely: wiien
they huve acquired sufficient streni^th in these beds, they are to be
plovited in trenches for full growth as directed in JuTie.

Let those remaining in the seed-beds be watered, to settle the
earth about their roots, which had been loosened in the act of pull-
ing out the others.

When of sufficient size and strength, plant out into trenches, some
of your earliest sown plants, as directed in the Kitchen-Garden for
Ju7ie.

For the best method of obtaining celery, in early perfection, with-
out the assistance of a hot-b^ed, see page 322.

Sowing Celery Seed.

Sow more celery seed, for a principal later crop; let this be done
as directed in page 321. In hot sunny weather, the shading of the
bed with mats, from ten to four o'clock, would greatly facilitate the
growth of the seed; occasional waterings also, will be very service-
able, and in a dry season indispensable.

May.J the KITCHEN-GARDEN. 379

^isparagiis.

Asparagus is in the best state for cutting, when the shoots are
from two to four inches above ground, and the top buds or heads
remaining close and compact; soon after, ihey become open and
of less estimation. For the proper method of cutting them, see
page 192,

Keep the asparagus beds perfectly free from weeds, and let it be
remembered, to terminate the general cutting, as soon as you per-
ceive the coming up roots begin to appear small, or weaker than
usual; for if continued cutting too late in the season, it would great-
ly exhaust the roots, and the next and succeeding years' produce,
would be diminished in proportion.

Beets.

Weed or hoe your early crops of beet, and thin them, if in
beds, to one foot asunder, or if in drills, to eight or nine inches plant
from plant. Continue to sow more, especially of the red beet, for
a succession crop, which will succeed very well, if sown in the early
part of the mon.h. A full and abundant supply of this very excel-
lent vegetable, ought to be cultivated in every garden. For the
methods of sowing, see page 195.

Onions.

The onions which were sown at an early season, with an expec-
tation of their growing to a sufficient size for table use, the first
year from seed, should now be perfectly cleared from weeds, and
the plants thinned to about three inches from one another, being
careful to leave the largest and best; they should be thinned at an
early period, and kept totally free of weeds, from the moment of
their appearance above ground, to the period of their perfection.

This work may either be performed by hand, or with a small
hoe; the latter is the quickest method, and the stirring the ground
therewith, will be of great service to the growth of the plants:
have for this purpose a small one-hand hoe, about two inches broad,
or, in want of this, an old table knife, bent a little at the end, about an
inch, by heating in a fire, will answer very well for small or mode-
rate crops.

The plantations arising from seed onions, should now be kept
very clean, and also the late sown crops, intended to produce small
bulbs for next year's planting.

Turneps.

Hoe and thin your advancing crops of turneps, and sow some
more of the early Dutch, or early stone kinds, for a succession: this
sowing should be performed in the first week of the month, in or-
der that the roots should have time to grow to a good size before

380 'f HE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [May.

their being overtaken by the great summer heat and drought, which
are very inimical to them. In the doing of this, take advantage
of moist or cloudy weather, or immediately after rain, and sow the
seed on a bed of good mellow ground, thin and even; tread it down
and rake it in regularly.

Hamburgh Parsley, ScorzonerUf and Salsafy.

The young crops of Hamburgh, or large-rooted parsley, scorzo-
nera, and salsafy, must now be carefully cleaned from weeds, and
the plants should be thinned or hoed out to proper distances, that
their roots may have room to swell: thinning them to about six
inches asunder.

Early in this month, you may sow principal crops of salsafy and
scorzonera, for autumn and winter use; for these that are sown
now, will not be so subject to run to seed, as those which were
sown in the former months, and their roots will be in excellent or-
der for the table, during the entire autumn and winter. For a
more particular account of these' plants, see pages 198, 199, and
323.

Capsicums, or Red-Peppers.

Early in this month you may sow, in a warm exposure on a bed
of rich earth, seeds of the various kinds of capsicums, which you
desire to cultivate; the large heart shaped kind is that, which is
more generally used for pickling; the plants from this sowing, may
be planted out in rows, about the first of June.

The early plants raised in hot-beds, should, in the middle states,
be planted out finally, as soon after the twentieth of this month, as
moist or cloudy weather may occur; the rows must be two feet, or
a little better asunder, and the plants one foot distant from one ano-
ther: when planted, give each some water, and afterwards keep the
ground free from weeds.

You may likewise at this time, sow the seeds in drills at the above
distance; covering them about a quarter of an inch deep; and when
grown an inch or two, thin them to proper distances; but as they
bear transplanting extremely well, it will be attended with less
trouble, to raise them in the seed-bed, and afterwards plant them
out.

Tomatoes.

Sow the seeds of tomatoes in the first week of the month, on a
warm sandy soil, either to remain for fruiting, or for transplanting,
as directed in page 327.

Plant out from the hot-beds, about the middle of the month, or
a little later, if the season is not favourable, those plants which are
forwarded therein, and at the distances mentioned in page 327. Or
they may be planted close to pailings or fences of any kind, to which
they may be trained; but a support of some kind, will be neces-
sary, in order to have them in the best perfection, and in abundant
bearing.

May.] the KITCHEN-GARDEN. 381

Egg-Plant.

If omitted to sow the seed of the egg-plant last month, as there
directed, some should be sown in the first week of this, on a rich
warm border, to raise plants for planting out, when about three or
four inches high, as directed in page 327.

About the middle of this month, or soon after, according to the
season, you should plant out for fruiting, the early plants of this
kind which were forwarded in hot-beds. A rich sandy soil, is the
most suitable for them: the purple kind will require to be two feet
and a half asunder; and for the white, two feet will be sufficient.
As they advance in growth, draw some earth to their stems, in like
manner as to cabbage plants; keep the ground about them clean, and
you may expect fine fruit.

Endive.

Some endive may now be sown, for an early crop; but at this
season, it is very subject to run up to seed: however, when such is
required, let it be sown on an o/ien spot of rich ground, tolerably
thick, taking care to cover it evenly, or to rake it in well.

The white and green curled endive, are the proper sorts to sow
now; when the plants are about three inches high, they should be
transplanted into beds, at the distance of ten or twelve inches, from
one another^ and immediately watered, taking care to transplant
them in cloudy or wet weather, if such should occur in due season.

Towards the end of the month, you may sow some more to keep
up a regular succession, and although it is very difficult, to raise it
in good perfection at this season, some families must have it at all
events.

Okra.

The first week of this month, is a very proper time, to sow a full
crop of okra; and another sowing may be made about the middle
thereof, for a succession crop; the seeds will now vegetate freely
and the plants advance apace. For the method of sowing them,
&c. see page 326.

JSTasturtiums:

The seed of the nasturtium, may be sown in the first week of
this month, as directed in page 326; but the early crops of this
kind, are generally most successful.

Sorrel.

Either the common garden broad-leaved, or the French round
leaved sorrel, may be sown in the first week of this month, as di-
recte^d in page 328. Or, the old standing roots, of either kind,

382 THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [May-

may be separated and planted for increase, in beds or borders, at
the distance often or twelve inches asunder; this would have been
better if done last month, but they will succeed any time in this, if
well watered immediately after plantint^, and repeated at intervals
for a few days. When the plants shoot up to seed, cut them down
close, and a new crop of leaves will be produced: this may be re-
peated, from time to time, during the summer and autumn.

Sowing Pot-herbs, ^c.

Common and curled parsley may now be sown, where it had
been omitted in the former months; as may also, the seeds of
chervil, sweet basil, coriander, pot-marigold, bi^rage and burnet;
thyme, summer, and winter savory, sweet, and pot marjoram, to-
gether with many other sorts of pot, aromatic, or medicinal herbs;
observing the same method as directed in page 207, which see.
All those, with every other kind necessary, should be sown as early
in the month as possible.

Propagating Aromatic, Pot, and Medicinal Plants, hy Cuttings and

Slips, ^'c.

You may yet, if attended to in the early part of this month, pro-
pagate the various kinds of pot, physical and aromatic plants, men-
tioned in page 206, and in like manner, as there directed; but they
will now require to be frequently watered, and if shaded for some
time after planting, the better.

Supporting Plants for seed.

Now support the stems or stalks of such plants as were planted
for seed. The onions and leeks, in particular, will require this
care; for the stalks of these will he run up to a good height,
and if they are not secured in due time, the winds and heavy rains
will break them down.

The best method of supporting these plants is to drive some firm
stakes into the ground, along the rows, placing them about two or
three yards asunder: then let some thin long poles, or strong lines,
be fastened from stake to stake, close along each side of the seed-
stalks.

Let the advancing stems of the different kinds of cabbages and
other tall growing plants, that are now shooting to seed, and are
subject to be borne down by wind, or wet, be likewise supported, by
placing stakes to them and tying them thereto securely; or by any
other more convenient method.

Cardoons.

The cardoons which were sown in March or April, ought now
to be thinned, where they have risen too thick, that the plants may
have room to grow and get strength by next month, when they
should be planted, where they are to remain for landing up to blanch.

May.] the FRUIT-GARDEN. 383

Thin them to about four or five inches distance; or some may-
be pricked six inches asunder on a nursery-bed, to remain till next
montii, when the whole should be transplanted finally.

Gi. e water immediately to those that you prick out, and if sunny
■weather, shade will be necessary for a few days.

Destroying Weeds.

It is in vain to expect good crops, and folly to go to the expense
of i^eed or labour, unless you keep them free from weeds, and par-
ticularly, while they are younsj-; therefore, more than common
care slmuld now be taken, to destroy weeds throughout the whole
ga ('en, but moie especially among the young rising crops. It is
row the most important work in the garden: the hoe should be
applied between all the rows of peas, beans, cabbages, and every
other kind growing in drills, and the weeds which are close to the
plants, be pulled up by the hand.

The onions, carrots, leeks, parsneps, and all other close and low
growing crops, should be always kept free from weeds, from the
momeni tlity appear above ground, till grown to their full size.
A small lioe may be applied where it will answer, but where not,
hand-weeding must be practised.

Watering.

Watering in dry weather is very necessary, but especially to the
newly transplanted crops, whether young seedlings, or plants of
larger growth finally transplanted; such as cabbages, cauliflowers,
lettuces, celery, &c. A plentiful watering should be given to each
plant, immediately after planting out, and repeated occasionally till
all have taken root and begin to grow. Most of the young seed-
ling plants will require it, now and then, till they have established
their roots, and extended them to a sufficient depth, to be out of
the power of drought.

Water should generally be given, late in the afternoon, or very
early in the morning, but the former is preferable; that the plants
may have as much benefit from it as possible, before any part is ex-
haled by the heat of the ensuing day.

THE FRUIT-GARDEN.

Wall Trees.

In the early part of this month, look over your wall trees,
and where you perceive a superabundance of young and unneccsa-
ry shoots appearing, cither rub, nip, or cut them clean off, close to

384 '1'^^ FRUIT-GARDEN. [May.

whence they were produced, being particular to leave a iilentiful
supply? of such as are good and well placed; and when of due
growth, train them in, at full length, close, and regular. The long
fore right shoots, that is, such as project directly towards the front,
ought generally to be displaced, except where some are wanted for
laying in, to fill up vacant places; and likewise, any extraordinary
vigorous growths, arising in the middle of the tree, unless where
necessary to be preserved, for similar purposes.

Where any considerable opening appears, and that but one or
two shoots offer in such place, you should, after these have grown
about a foot long, shorten them to three or four eyes, and they will
soon after shoot out again, probably, one from each bud, to furnish
the vacancy.

Be very particular, as to apples, pears, plums, and cherries, not
to shorten or rub off, such advancing buds, as naiure has intended
for fruiting-spurs, which, are very distinguishable by their short
thick growth.

Es'pali^rs.

All unnecessary, ill placed, and fore-right shoots, on espalier
trees of every kind, should now be rubbed off or cut away; they
are only robbers, and should consequently be discarded; but, in
doing this, discietion ought to be observed, and an abundant sup-
ply left, to furnish the trees, and to discharge such parts of the as-
cending juices, as are not convertible into wood or fruit.

Apples, pears, plums and cherries, continue bearing many years,
on the same spurs or branches, and do not require such a general
annual supply of young wood, as peaches and nectarines. Sec which
always, with very few exceptions, produce their fruit from the pre-
ceding year's shoots; yet a sufficiency should be left, to train in
between the main branches, and a leading or terminal one to each
branch, unless the tree has already extended as far as you desire;
for it is essentially requisite, to leave a sufficieut number of the
best placed shoots, to choose from in the general winter pruning.
The shoots now preserved, should be trained in regularly to the
espalier, at full length; for the reasons assigned in the winter prun-
ing, see the Fruit-Garden in January,

Where there is any great vacancy, it is proper, towards the latter
end of this month, to shorten some of the adjoining young shoots
of the year, to three or four buds, to cause them to produce a supply
of lateral branches to fill the vacant places.

Young wall and espalier-trees, that are advancing in a training
state, should also be attended to now, in their early shooting, to dis-
place the improper and ill-placed growths, and retain all the well
placed shoots, both for an additional supply of branches in the gene-
ral formation of the trees, and to form future bearers for production
of fruit.

Thinning of Fruit.

Apricot, peach, and nectarine trees, in favourable seasons, some-
times set superabundant crops of fruit, often in thick clusters, and

May.] the FRUIT-GARDEN* 385

in greater quantities, than they can supply with a sufficiency of nour-
ishment; and which, if suffered to remain, would not only be poor
and miserable, but would so exhaust the trees, as to render it im-
possible for them, to produce good and sufficient shoots, capable of
bearing any tolerable quantity of fruit the ensuing season, or per-
haps ever after.

Therefore, let them now be thinned, leaving only a good, mode-
rate, regular crop, on each tree, and the sooner it is done, the bet-
ter, boih for the trees and remaining fruit; always leaving the best
pliiced and most promising.

The young fruit that are thinned off, are excellent for tarts, Sec.
particularly the apricots, but ihe others are also very good for that
purpose.

Some people will consider this a very disagreeable task, both on
account of casting away so many fruit, which they might think
would do very well, and also, on account of the time spent in per-
forming the work; but this is a mistake, as the loss in number,
will be more than repaid by the size, flavour, and excellence of the
remaining fruit; and besides, the trees will be preserved in health
and vigour, for the production of future crops.

This thinning should not be confined only, to wall and espalier
trees, but ought to be extended generally, and for the same reasons,
to all your standard peach, nectarine and apricots, but more parti-
cularly to such as are young.

When trees are suffered to bear a superabundant crop, the extra-
ordinary efforts made to support their tco numerous offspring, of-
ten so exhaust them, as to bring on diseases, of which several do
n»t recover, at least for two or three years.

Protecting Cherries from Birds.

As soon as yeur cherries begin to ripen, hang up nets before the
wall trees, and cast some over the espaliers, supporting them with
sticks or branches at a sufficient distance to prevent the birds from
reaching the fruit. Likewise, the casting of large nets, over stand-
ard cherry trees, will prevent the depredations of birds.

Cleaning the Fruit-Tree Borders.

The borders where wall and espalier-trees grow, should be kept
remarkably clear from weeds; for these not only appear disagree-
able and exhaust the nourishment, but afford harbour for snails,-
slugs, and other crawling insects, to the detriment of the fruit.

Therefore, when weeds appear in these parts, and where there is
room to admit of hoeing between any ci'ops that ai^e growing
on the borders, let a sharp hoe be applied to them in a dry day, by
which you may stop their progress; and as soon as hoed, rake off
all the weeds and rubbish, leaving a clean smooth surface.

3 C

386 J^HE FRUIT-GARDEN. [May.

Insects.

At this season, insects will probably appear on some of your
fruit trees; when that is the case, there should be immediate means
used for their destruction, before they increase and become nume-
rous. See page 333.

Watering with common water, proves very beneficial to trees in-
fested with insects; especially, if thrown against them with some
force, by means of a small water-engine. This will not only dis-
place caterpillars and many other insects, but greatly refresh the
trees, especially, in dry weather; and if often repeated where in-
sects appear, it will considerably diminish their number, and pre-
vent their spreading.

The most eligible engines, are such as have the pump and dis-
charging pipe, fixed in the vessel for containing the water; of which,
some are of a moderate size for carrying about by the hand, but
larger ones are fitted upon a low, light, three wheeled carriage, for
the more convenient removal from place to place.

This engine may be conveniently used, for watering different
parts of the garden in dry weather.

Watering new planted Trees.

The new planted fruit-trees. Mill now be greatly benefited by
occasional waterings, which should always be given in the morn-
ing, and frequently over the branches, as well as about the roots;
this will be of great service in washing off any dust and filth which
their leaves may have contracted, and in opening their pores for the
reception of the atmospheric moisture.

Strawberries.

Watering, at this season, will be extremely salutary to strawber-
ries, by causing their fruit to set and swell freely; let it not be given
over the plants, but between them, lest it should wash off the fecun-
dating polen from the flowers, and thereby prevent their setting
fruit.

In those beds where the plants are kept apart from one another,
and the fruit required in the greatest perfection, the young advanc-
ing runners should be trimmed off, to encourage the bloom and en-
large the fruit; but when a supply of those are wanted for forming
new plantations, a sufiiciency must be left for that purpose.

The edgings of strawberries, round beds or borders, &c. should
be kept within due bounds, by occasionally cutting away their advan-
cing runners.

jyTewly grafted and budded Trees.

For the treatment of such trees as were grafted in the preceding
months, or budded last summer or autumn, see the JVursery for
this month.

May.] the VINEYARD. 387

THE ORCHARD.

You should now pay attention to the due formation of the
heads of young, or new planted trees; much may be done towards
that, by the timely displacing of irregular and unnecessary shoots,
and by the shortening of luxuriant ones.

The new planted trees will require to be frequently watered,
giving it occasionally to the branches as well as the roots, and al-
ways about the hour of sun setting, or a short time before or after.

Such of your peaches, nectarines and apricots, but more especially
the young trees, as are over-burdened with fruit, must be deprived
of any superabundance, by a judicious thinning, and only as many
left on, as they have sufficient strength to support, without injury
to themselves.

Take particular care to destroy caterpillars, &c. while yet in
small clusters, before they overrun the trees; and where worms or
canker appear in either stems or branches, let such parts be treated
as directed in page 142,

THE VINEYARD.

The vines will now begin to shoot vigorously, and produce,
besides bearing and other useful shoots, numbers that are totally
unnecessary, which ought to be carefully cleared away; for if left on,
they would rob the fruit, and also crowd and impoverish those shoots
intended for next year's bearing. But in doing this, you must be
very particular not to break off, in going between the vines, such
fruiting or other shoots as are necessary, for at this time they are
very easily injured; nor to annoy in the least the blossom buds,
which will, early in the month, be very prominent. Where suckers
from the roots, or shoots from the under parts of the stems appear,
let them be immediately stripped off. The principal part of this
work, if attended to in due time, may be done with the finger and
thumb, but where that will not answer, you may now use the knife,
with great safety; for although these plants bleed copiously in
spring when destitute of leaves, yet afterwards the exhalation by
the foliage becomes so great, that the absorbent roots do not sup-
ply a fluid so fast as it could be expended in the growth of the plant
or dissipated into the air; hence the cause of the drooping of va-
rious kinds of plants in hot weather.

All the shoots that have fruit on, and others that are strong, well
placed, and suitable for next year's bearing, should, when grown to
a sufficient length, be carefully and neatly tied up to the stakes, pre-
viously observing, as before directed, to clear away all unnecessary
young growths arising in places not wanted, and to leave a suffi-

388 '^'11*^ NURSERY. [May.

ciency of the best, for a proper choice in the general winter prun-

It will not be proper at this lime to cultivate the ground between
the vines, as many accidents might happen thereby, to the blossoms
and young shoots: but towards the end of the month, or when al!
the vines have had their first tying up, (for this must be repeated as
lh«y advance in growth.) you should give the ground a general
cleaning, either by hoe or plough. See. as most convenient.

THE NURSERY.

Destroy Weeds.

There is nothing more important at this season, than the
destruction of weeds, in all parts of the nursery, for if you let any
of them perfect seeds, your ground will be thereby, stocked for
years; therefore, the hoe must be applied wherever you can use
it, and always be careful to rake and carry away such as you hoe
or pull up, for if left lying on the surface, or in the alleys, many of
them would there ripen seed, which would afterwards considerably
increase your labour. Weeds should never be suffered to grow
between the rows of trees, Sec. for those rob them of a great por-
tion of the necessary nourishment; nor should you, for the same
reason, ever plant any kitchen vegetables between them, as is prac-
tised by some unskilful and covetous persons.

The seed-beds of all young trees and shrubs, should now, in par-
ticular, be kept remarkably free from weeds, and this must always
be done, by a very careful hand-weeding.

Watering the Seed-beds.

If the weather should now prove dry, all the seed-beds, but parti-
cularly the evergreens, such as pines, and firs, &c. ought to be fre-
quently watered, taking care not to administer it too hastily, lest it
should wash the earth from about the young roots, and expose them
too much to the sun, which would greatly retard their growth.

Shading and Sifftng Earth over Seedlings.

All the slow growing and tender seedlings, especially the ever-
greens, should, after having newly come up, be occasionally shaded,
from the too powerful influence of the mid-day sun, which would
destroy a great number of them, particularly, while their small stems
are in a tender succulent stale.

There is nothing that will be more beneficial to the young seed-
lings, at this period of their growth, than to sift some fine, light

May.] the NURSERY. S89

earth over them, just as much, and no more, as will cover their
stems up to the seed leaves; this will keep their roots cool and
nioist, and protect their stems from the power of the sun. The
pines and firs, in particular, are very subject to be cut off when
young, at the very surface of the ground, by the burning heat
thereof, melting away the yet soft and tender stems, while the
leaves do not appear in the least injured.

Watering new Plantations.

Watering will be extremely necessary, for all the new planta-
tions of ihe more curious and valuable sorts of evergreens and flow-
ering shrubs, and indeed, for as much of the general young planta-
tions, as it can be extended to with any tolerable degree of conve-
nience. It should be occasionally given to the leaves and branches,
as well as to the roots, for it will not only wash off any dirt or filth
which they may have contracted, but open the pores of the plants,
wiiich in dry weather are many times almost closed, whereby the
trees suffer greatly; nor is the water poured about the roots only,
capable of relieving them when in that condition; this is one rea-
son why rain is much more effectual, than artificial watering:
these waterings should always be given in an evening after the heat
of the day is over, that the water may have time to soak down to
the roots, and the moisture be dried from the leaves by the morn-
ing sun; for if watered in the forenoon, and that there should be
a powerful sun soon after, the leaves are frequently scalded thereby,
the spherical drops of water which remain on their surface, causing
the rays to converge to a focus, and act upon them as a lens, ov
burning-glass.

But in watering, let it be observed not to give too much, as that,
in some case, would be injurious; a little, and often, ought to be the
rule.

Such plants as you have in pots, should be treated as directed
hereafter, for those of the Green-house department.

Propagating Evergreens, ^'c, by Layers.

About the latter end of this month, begin to propagate such ever-
greens and other shrubs, by layers of the young shoots of the pre-
sent year, as do not succeed well by layers of the old wood.

When the young shoots are from eight, to ten or twelve inches
long, bring them down to the earth, and if strong, you may slit them
as directed in page 289, or if weak, give them a gentle twist and
lay them into the earth, from two to six inches deep, according to
their size, leaving about two or three inches of the tops out of
ground: fasten them securely with hooked pegs and draw the earth
over (he parts laid. When done, give them a moderate watering,
and repeat it occasionally, so as to keep the earth in a moist state,
to encourage their rooting.

Trees and shrubs in general, root very freely by this method,
which may be practised on the various kinds as they advance in

390 IHE PLEASURE, OR [May.

growth, both evergreen and deciduotis, from the middle of this
month, to the end of July. Many kinds will be well rooted by Oc-
tober, and may then be taken off and removed. Such as are not
rooted by that time, must be suffered to remain another year.

JVewly grafted and budded Trees.

Examine all kinds of trees and shrubs, which were grafted in the
preceding months, and such as are well united, manifested by the
free shooting of the grafts, the clay and bandages may be taken off,
not however, in most kinds, until the cions have grown five on six
inches long; the latter part of the month will, generally, be the
proper time for this examination.

Those that are not as well united as might be wished, should
have the bandage slackened and fresh clay applied to them as in
the first instance; or the clay may be applied without the bandage,
which will preserve the wounds from the weather, and greatly pro-
mote the growth of the bark over the headed parts of the stocks:
this may be left on till it falls off.

Suffer no shoots to remain, that arise from the stocks below the
grafts; all should be looked over once a week, and when such ap-
pear, let them be immediately rubbed off, that the whole nourish-
ment may go to the support of the cions.

The trees which were budded last summer, must also, be care-
fully and frequently looked over, and all improper shoots rubbed
off.

As the shoots from the inoculations advance in growth, they
should be tied gently to the spurs left for that purpose, at the time
of heading the stocks, that they may not be broke off by winds or
other accidents.

Seedlings in Pots or Tubs.

The pots and tubs of the more rare and delicate seedling plants,
should now be kept constantly in the shade, where they may have
only the morning sun till nine or ten o'clock, and that of the after-
noon, after four; they must be frequently watered and kept free
from weeds. A little earth sifted over them as directed for other
seedlings, will be of great service.

THE PLEASURE, OR FLOWER-GARDEN.

Hyacinths.

Continue to defend the beds of the more curious hya-
cinths, yet in full blow, as directed last month; or, they may be
defended either by boards, or by mats laid occasionally on hoops

May.J flower-garden. 391

placed ai'chwise over the beds for their support. These should be
laid on every day, when the sun shines powerfully, about nine or
ten o'clock in the morning, and taken off at four or five in the af-
ternoon.

When hyacinths are past flower, let them always be fully exposed
to the weather, except in very heavy torrents of rain, from which
they should be catefully protected.

It is the practice in Holland to take up the bulbs, about a month
after the bloom is completely over, in the following manner: as
soon as the plants begin to put on a yellowish decayed appearance,
they take up tlie roots and cut off the stem and foliage, within an
inch, or half an inch of the bulb, but leave the fibres, &c. attached
to it; they then place the bulbs again on the same bed, with their
points towards the north, and cover them about an inch deep, with
dry earth or sand in form of a ridge, or in little cones over each
bulb: in this state they remain about three weeks longer, and dry
or ripen gradually; during which period the bed is preserved from
heavy rains or too much sun, but at all other times exposed to the
full air; at the expiration of this period, th*e bulbs are taken up, and
their fibres, which are become dry and withered, cut or gently
rubbed off; they are then placed in a dry room for two or three
weeks, and are afterwards cleaned from any soil that adheres to
them, their loose skins taken off, with such offsets as may be easily
separated.

When this dressing is finished, the bulbs are wrapped up in se-
parate pieces of paper, or buried in sand, made effectually dry for
that purpose, where they remain till the return of the season for
planting.

Another, and less troublesome, mode of treatment after bloom,
though perhaps more hazardous, is to suffer the roots to remain in
the bed, till the stems and foliage appear nearly dried up and con-
sumed; this will seldom happen to be the case, in less tlian two
months after bloom; the bulbs are then to be taken up, cleaned
from the fibres, soil, 8cc. and spread to dry and harden on the floor
of an airy room, for about three weeks, then to be preserved in sand
or paper as before directed. Or they may be deposited in dry bar-
ley chaff, saw-dust, or kept on open shelves out of the sun and wet;
but too much exposure to the air, often destroys many roots, and
materially injures the whole.

Others again, take up the roots at the first mentioned period,
cutting off the flower stems but not the foliage, and prepare a bed
of light earth, either where the hyacinths had grown, or in any
other convenient place; forming it into a high sloping ridge, east
and west; on the north side of which, they place the roots in rows,
so as that the bulbs do not touch, and in a horizontal manner, co-
vering the roots and fibres with the earth, and suffering the leaves
to hang down the ridges; here they remain till the bulbs are suffi-
ciently ripened, and then are taken up and treated as before.

392 TJIE PLEASURE, OR [May

2hlips.

Continue to protect the fine lute tulips, yet in flowers, as directed
last month in page 342, and treat thetn in every respect as there
advised.

As soon as the petals or flowers fall, the seed-vessel of each
should be immediately broken off", or if suffered to remain and ri-
pen seed, it would procrastinate the maturity of the roots, and con-
siderably weaken them.

Towards ihe end of the njonth, or rather when the grass, or fo-
liage, becomes of a yellowish brown, not before, which will happen
sooner or later according to season, climate, soil and situation, and
that a few inches of the top or stem appears dry, purplish, and
•withered, you are to take up the roots of such as you particularly
esteem; for this is the critical period for that work, because if
done earlier, they would be weak and spungy, and deferred later,
their juices would become gross; which would appear manifest at
the succeeding bloom, by too great a redundance of colorific matter
in the petals, and tlie flowers would be what is generally termed
foul.

When the roots are taken up, they are to be laid in a dry shady
place and gradually dried; observing to keep each variety of the
superb kinds separate, that in planting, you may know how to di-
versify the bed, according to fancy, either as to intermixture of co-
lours, or the usual height and growth of the plants. About five or
six weeks after the bulbs are taken up and properly dried, it is pro-
per to take off their loose skins, fibres, and offsets; the last brown
skin which is so intimately connected with the root, ou^ht to be
left on; after which they should be preserved, in dry sand, barley
chaff", saw dust, or rolled up in separate papers, till the time of
planting, for the action of the air during our warm summers and
autumns, would greatly weaken and injure them, by drying up part
of their juices.

The smallest and weakest off"sets, particularly such as are not
provided with a brown skin, ought to be replanted as soon as they
are taken up, about an inch and a half deep, in a fresh sandy loam,
and in a dry situation; or instead of replanting these offsets so early,
they may be preserved from the drying influence of the air, by
burying them in dry sand till October, when they are to be planted
as already mentioned.

Common tulips, planted in the borders of the pleasure ground. Sec.
need not be taken up oftencr, than once in two or three years, to
separate the offsets, and replant the bulbs in fresh earth.

Ranunculuses.

The weather in this month is generally very clear and hot; the
ranunculuses ought to be shaded at such times, from the mid-day
3un, by means of lofty hoops and mats, or by some better contri-
vance, that will admit light and air freely; a frame and cover, simi-

May.] flower-garden. 393

lar to that directed for hyacinths in page 340, would answer best, if
expense and trouble were not to be considered: it will, however,
be absolutely necessary to shade them, in some manner, during
the period of bloom, otherwise they will continue but a short time,
especially the dark rich coloured sorts; for, in proportion as their
colours approach to black, is the injury they will receive from the
rays of the sun, if it is permitted to shine upon them in full force;
some of the very darkest cannot stand it a day without being en-
tirely deprived of their beauty. The light coloured sorts will bear
the sun's rays much better, reflecting them in proportion as they
approach to white; green is the only colour that reflects and ab-
sorbs the rays of light it; equal proportion, and consequently, is
more predominant in the vegetable kingdom than any other.

During the continuance of the bloom, the earth round the roots,
must be occasionally watered as directed in page 344, but when that is
over, they will require it but seldom, and not at all, should gentle
showers of rain occur now and then, but shading in the middle of
hot days, will be very beneficial to the plants; it tends to prolong
their vegetation, and the size and substance of the roots are thereby
increased. For their further treatment, see the Flo7uer-Garden, in
June.

A Description of the Properties of a Fine Double Ranunculus.

The stem should be strong, straight, and from eight to twelve
inches high, supporting a large well-formed flower, at least two
inches in diameter, consisting of numerous petals, the largest at the
out side, and gradually diminishing in size as they approach the
centre, which should be well filled up.

The blossom should be of a hemispherical form; and its compo-
nent petals imbricated in such a manner, as neither to be too close
and compact nor too widely separated; but have rather more of a
perpendicular than of a horizontal direction, to display its colours
with better effect.

The petals should be broad, and have perfectly entire well round-
ed edges; their colours should be dark, clear, rich, or brilliant,
either consisting of one colour throughout, or be otherwise variously
diversified, on an ash, white, sulphur, or fire colour ground, or re-
gularly striped, spotted, or mottled, in an elegant manner.

There are more numerous varieties of beautiful Double Ranun-
culuses, than of any other flower.

Anemones.

Gentle and moderate waterings, will be necessary for anemones,
during their period of flowering, as well as for ranunculuses; the
blossoms and petals of the former, are of a more soft and flexible
texture than those of the latter, and are consequently, more liable
to receive injury, from high winds and heavy rains; their colours
soon fade when exposed to a strong sun; it is therefore, equally

SD

394 THE PLEASURE, OR [May.

necessary to shade and shelter them whilst in blooni) in order to
prolong the extreme beauty of their flowers.

Anemones continue longer after bloom in a state of vegetation,
than ranunculuses, probably because of their greater degree of suc-
culency; and even at the proper time to take them up, it will some-
times happen, that part of their foliage will not be entirely divested
of greenness and moisture; when it thus happens, which it does
more frequently in rainy or wet seasons, much skill is necessary to
ascertain the critical period to take up the roots; for if they are
suffered to remain too long, especially if the season be moist, they
will shoot afresh, and be thereby materially weakened and injured;
it is indeed better to take them up too early, than suffer them to
vegetate in this manner, but the roots will not be so firm and solid
as if done at the exact time. The safest and most effectual me-
thod to preserve them from these disagreeable consequences, is to
keep off all heavy rains, after the bloom is quite over, by means of
mats and hoops, but on no account suffer the ground to become too
dry; the roots will then regularly and gradually mature, and the
foliage in due time will become brown and dry, which will point
out the true time to take up the roots, and this will usually happen
to be about a month after bloom.

For their subsequent treatment, see the Flower-Garden for next
month.

A Description of the Properties of a fine Double uIsemose,

The stem should be strong, elastic, and erect, not less than nine
or ten inches high.

The blossom, or corolla, should be at least two inches and a half
in diameter, consisting of an exterior row of large substantial well
rounded petals or guard leaves, at first horizontally extended, and
then turning a little upwards, so as to form a broad shallow cup, the
interior part of which, should contain a great number of long nar-
row petals, imbricating each other, and rather reverting from the
centre of the blossom; there are a great number of small slender
stamens, intermixed with these petals, but they are short, and not
easily discernible.

The colour should be clear and distinct, when diversified in the
same flower, or brilliant and striking if it consists only of one co-
lour, as blue, crimson, or scarlet, 8cc. in which case, the bottoms of
the broad exterior petals are generally white; but the beauty and
contrast is considerably increased, when both the exterior and inte-
rior petals are regularly marked with alternate blue and white, or
pink and white stripes. Sec. which in the broad petals should not
extend quite to the margin.

Early Flowering Bulbs.

Any curious bulbs that are now in flower, may be much prolonged
in bloom and beauty, by occasional shade from the sun.

Spring crocuses, snow-drops, fritillaries, crown-imperials, dens
canises, and all other early flowering bulbs that have done flower-

May.] FLOWER-GARDEN. 395

ing, should, where intended, be taken up, as soon as their leaves
decay.

This ought to be constantly practised, with such as have stood un-
removed two or three years; in order to separate the offsets, and
to select the best roots for new planting; for without this care the
bulbs would become numerous, and so small as to render the flow-
ers very insignificant. The offsets when separated, may be imme-
diately planted in beds or prepared borders, to increase the stock
and enlarge their size; or they may be kept up, as well as the largest
of the roots, till found convenient to plant them.

All these kinds when taken up, should be placed in the shade to
dry, and when sufficiently so, preserved in dry sand or saw dust,
£cc. till the time of planting; which, for these, should not be delayed
later than October, nor even till then if not taken good care of, as
they do not keep well out of ground, especially if exposed long to
the air.

•Autumn Flowering Bulbs.

The autumnal Crocuses, Amaryllises, and Colchicums, should
be taken up as soon as their leaves decay, the offsets separated and
all replanted again before the end of July: they are by no means to
be kept longer out of the ground, as that would prevent their flow-
ering in due perfection in autumn, which is their proper season.

Care of Seedling Bulbs.

The boxes of seedling tulips, hyacinths, narcissuses, and other
bulbous kinds, arising from the seeds sown last autumn, should be
now placed in the shade, carefully preserved from the mid-day sun,
and the plants refreshed now and then with a little water: a small
portion of loose earth sifted over them, would be of great benefit.

^Auriculas and Polyanthuses.

The first week of this month, or immediately after your fine auri?
culas and polyanthuses have done flowering, is a very proper time
to re-pot and slip them, as directed in the Flower-Garden for last
month; after which, they must be treated during the summer and
autumn, as there advised. See pages 347 and 349.

Carnations.

The fine carnations in pots, should now have due care and good
attendance, they should be watered according to their necessities,
and as their flower stems advance, small neat sticks, for their sup-
port, should be placed one in each pot, to which they are to be tied;
these ought to be at least three feet long, tapering a little from the
bottom to top and painted green; they should be substantial and
str^ght, and their lower ends are to be forced into the earth in the
centre of each pot, sufficiently deep and firm, not to be shsjken loose

396 l'"E PLEASURE, OR [May.

by the wind. As the stems continue advancing in height, the tying
is to be repeated at about every five or six inches.

The pots may now be removed to the stage, and remain there till
the time of bloom.

If any small, green, winged insects, appear on the stems or fo-
liage of the plants, they must be effectually extirpated, either by
washing the infested parts, with a strong infusion of tobacco -water,
or dusting some Scotch or fine snuff over them early in the morn-
ing, whilst yet wet with the dew of the night.

The common carnations in the borders, will require to be kept
free from weeds, and as their stems advance, they should be tied up
neatly, to sticks placed for that purpose. For the further treatment
of cai'nations, see the Flonuer-Garden next month.

Pinks,

Your choice pinks in pots, will require due attention at this time;
they must be kept free from weeds, — frequently watered, and not
too much exposed to the mid-day sun in hot weather. For further
particulars see next month.

Tuberose and Scarlet Amaryllis.

The first week of this month is, in the middle states, the best pe-
riod for planting the roots of the tuberose, and scarlet amaryllis;
for the method, see pages 357 and 358.

Sowin<^' Annual Flower Seeds.

Most kinds of annual flower seeds may yet be sown, if done in
the early part of this month; but the first week thereof, will be a
very proper time to sow the seeds of the most tender kinds, such
as the various sorts of flowering Dolichos, tricolours, mesembry-
anthemums, Ipomoea Quamoclit, Browallia, sensitive plant, and Vin-
ca rosea, &c. the two last, however, though often considered as an-
nuals, from their flowering the same season in which they were
sown, are not truly so, as they will continue for several years, if
preserved in a hot-house; to do them justice, they should be sown
in pots and forwarded under frames and glasses, or else the sensi-
tive plant will not display its sensibility so well, nor will the Vinca
rosea flower in due time: the dolichoses should be sown to cover
arbours, &c. as may also the Ipomosa Quamoclit, convolvulus pur-
purcus, scarlet kidney-beans, &c. or they may be sowed in small
patches, and neat poles placed for them to climb on.

For the various kinds, 8tc. see page 351.

Transplant ing ^dnnuals.

You may now transplant various kinds of annuals frotn the early
sowings, into beds, borders, or pots, as you think proper, observing
to give them shade and water, till well rooted, or to transplant them
in moist or cloudy weather.

May.] flower-garden. 397

Sowing Perennial Flower-Seeds, ^c.

The seeds of most kinds of perennial and biennial flower-seeds,
may yet be sown, as directed in page 353; but they will require
occasional watering, till up and well established in the earth.

Propagating Double Scarlet Lychnis.

This beautiful flowering plant may now be propagated, by cuttings
of the stocks,. as well as at an earlier period, by slips from the root.
Towards the latter end of the month, let some of the young flow-
er-stalks be cut into lengths of six or seven inches, and planted in
a s/mdy border of rich light earth, leaving one or two joints of each
cutting above ground; close the earth well about them, water them
gently, and if bell or hand-glasses are placed over them, their root-
ing will be greatly facilitated thereby.

Tlie Hesperis matronalis, or Garden-Rocket.

The double white, and double purple varieties, of the garden
rocket, are extremely beautiful and fragrant; I have not yet had
the pleasure of seeing one of them in this country, nor have I been
able to learn that such is to be found on this side the Atlantic;
however, it is to be hoped, we shall soon obtain that charming,
showy, and delightful flower. It is perfectly hardy and may be
cultivated at this season, as above directed, for the double scarlet
lychnis, or by slips or offsets from the root, taken off and planted,
either in spring or autumn; it does not prosper well, except when
annually slipped or propagated by offsets; for the old roots are
very subject to decay, especially the double varieties; the single
sorts are much more permanent and easy of culture. The ladies
of Europe are extremely fond of it, whence it obtained the name of
Dame's-Violet, or Queen's Gillyflower.

Double Wall-jiowers and Stock-gillyflowers.

The fine double wall-flowers, and double stock-giilyflowers, may
now be propagated by young slips of the present year: chuse those
of short and robust growths, from four to five, or six inches long,
and let them be carefully slipped, or cut with a knife from the mo-
ther plants. Take the lower leaves off, so that there may be two,
three, or four inches of a clean stem to each, and plant them in a
shady border or in pots, inserting them into the eartti up to their
leaves; then give some water, and be particular to shade them
from the mid-day sun, till they have taken root. Water them oc-
casionally during summer, and in September, such as are planted
in borders, may be taken up with balls of earth and potted, in order
to be placed in frames. Sec. for protection from the winter frosts.

The double varieties are accidentally produced from seed, and it
is very rare to meet with such, among seedling plants of the wall-

39S THE PLEASURE-GARDEN. [May.

flower, perhaps not one out of five hundred would prove double,
but the gillyflowers produce numbers of double flowers from seed,
especially if it is saved from semi-double varieties: the full double,
never producing any. The beginning of this month is a very
proper time, to sow the seed of either of these, or of their varieties.

Guernsey Lily.

The ulmaryllis sarniensis, or Guernsey Lily. The leaves of this
most beautiful flower will, generally, be decayed towards the end
of this month, when the roots may be taken up, and the offsets se-
parated; they may be replanted in pots immediately, or if dried
first in the shade, be preserved in dry sand, 8cc. and planted any
time before the end of July, but are not to be kept up longer, as
they flower in September or October. When the winter frost
approaches, the pots are to be removed into a garden-frame, where
they may have occasional protection during the winter months, or
they may be placed in the front windows of the Green-house.
Their roots do not increase numerously, when removed oftener
than every third year, and in the summer months, they ought to be
kept in the shade, and gently watered now and then; but as their
roots are in a dormant state during that time, too much water
would totally destroy them.

Transplanting Perennial and Biennial Seedlings.

Many of the early sown perennial, and biennial flower plants,
will in the course of this month be fit to transplant into nursery
beds; where they should be set at the distance of six inches from
one another, there to remain to get strength till September or Oc-
tober, when they should be removed with balls of earth and finally
planted where intended to flower.

Supporting Flower-Plants.

Sticks must now be placed to such flowering-plants as want sup-
port; in doing this, have regard to the natural size and height of
each kind, and let the sticks be in proportion; fix them down firm
on that side, in which they can be least seen; for although the in-
tent is, to keep the plants upright and of neat appearance, yet the
means should be concealed as much as possible, and similar care
ought also, to be observed, in tying up the plants.

Likewise, climbing and trailing plants, of every kind, should
have timely support of sticks or stakes, proportioned to their re-
spective growths, and their stems or shoots conducted thereto in a
proper manner.

JVeeds.

More than ordinary care should now be taken, to keep all your
beds and borders, free from weeds, but more especially those, m
which small seedlings are growing.

May.] the GREEN-HOUSE. 399

Grass and Gravel Walks.

The s;rass-walks and lawns, should now be duly mowed and roll-
ed; otherwise, the grass will soon grow rank and unsightly; and
where plantain or any other kind of weeds, are mixed therewith,
they ought to be picked or grubbed out, or else, many of their seeds
will ripen, and thereby increase their species, which will overpower
the grass and render the verdure less agreeable.

The gravel walks should also be kept in complete order, pre-
serving them always free from weeds, and having them occasion-
ally swept to clear away all loose litter; and likewise well rolled,
generally once a week, but particularly after heavy showers of rain,
which will consolidate them, and render the surface smooth and
even.

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

Jlir and Water.

During the first ten days of this month, and, in the middle
states, the last Week of April, the doors and windows ought to be
kept open, night and day, in order to harden, and prepare the plants
for a removal into the open air; an extraordirftry change of wea-
ther, however, may sometimes render it prudent to close them at
night, but that should not be done at this season, except in cases of
necessity.

Water must now be given to every plant, according to its nature
and in proportion to its necessity, as observed last month; the
oranges, lemons, myrtles, and other woody kinds, will require it
frequently; it is impossible to say how ofien; the state of the earth
in which they grow, will readily denote tha'; it should always be
kept moist but not wet. The succulent tribe must yet get it but
sparingly.

Shifting.

Such plants as were not removed into larger pots or tubs, in the
preceding months, and that still require it, may now be shifted as
directed in page 361; but this must be done in the first week of
the month, keeping them afterwards in the shade, till they begin to
grow freely.

Loosen the earth in the top of the pots and tubs, and refresh with
new compost, such as had been neglected in April,

400 'I'HE GREEN-HOUSE. [Mav.

Pruning and Heading.

You may still prune, trim, and head, such of your plants as are
in need of that treatment; but let it be done early in the month,
and as directed in pages 306, 307, and 362, which see.

Propagating Green-House Plants.

Continue to propagate most kinds of plants, by cuttings, suckers,
seeds and layers, as directed in pages 308, and 363. The China and
Otahcite roses, may now be increased abundantly by cuttings, they
will strike root freely, and flower handsomely in autumn.

Seedling Oranges and Lemons.

The seedling oranges and lemons, raised from the late sowings of
last year, should early in this month, if not done before, be trans-
planted into separate pots; they ought to be watered immediately,
and shaded from the sun till newly rooted. If plunged into a hot-
bed, or bark-bed for two or three weeks, and carefully shaded from
the mid-day sun, it will greatly facilitate their rooting, and promote
their growth.

The early sown seedlings may, towards the latter end of the
month, be planted separately into small pots, and treated in like
manner.

You may yet sow the seeds of oranges and len\ons in pots or
boxes, for stocks; they will rise freely without any artificial heat,
and make tolerable progress during the season.

Inarching.

Inarching may now be performed on oranges, lemons, and any
other plants that you desire to propagate in that way, for the me-
thod seepage 257.

Bringing out the Green-House Plants.

About the tenth of this month, two or three days earlier or later,
according to the season and situation, you may, in the middle states,
begin to bring out the more hardy kinds of green-house plants,
such as the Viburnum Tinus, Prunus Lauro-cerasus, Prunus lusi-
tanica, Nerium Oleander, Hydrangea hortcnsis. Myrtles, Pome-
granates, Oranges, Lemons, Magnolia grandiflora, Lagerstroemia
indica. Daphne indicum, and all the other hardy kinds: the more
tender, and tenderest sorts, are to be brought out successively, so
that the entire may be abroad by the twentieth of the month.

In the eastern states this work must be delayed for a week or two
longer, according to the respective climates, and not attempted,
while there is any danger remaining from night frosts; but when
this is over, the sooner the plants are taken out the i^etter, especially

May.] the green-house. 4OI

the more hardy kinds: by no means ought they to be continued a
day longer in the house, than their preservation from frost and cold
severe weather requires, as at this season the young shots, of niany
kinds, will be growing freely, and if deprived of the benefit of the
open air, they would become weak and sickly.

Generally, when the plants are first brought out of the green-
house, it would be adviseable to place them in a warm situation,
where the wind can have but little power; about ten or twelve days
after, they will be somewhat hardened to the open air, and may
then be removed to the places where they are to remain during the
season.

Every plant as soon as brought out, should be cleared from all de-
cayed leaves, dust and foulness of every kind, and the heads of the
whole ought to be watered, all over, by means of a watering pot, or
a hand engine; which will greatly refresh and cause them to as-
sume a lively appearance.

If not done before, take out the earth from the tops of the pots
or tul)s, and fill them up with fresh compost; this will greatly en-
courage their flowering and promote a free growth; and if their
stems, &c. had not been pruned and dressed in the former months,
it should now be done.

It would be very adviseable, immediately on bringing out, to place
the pots of small growing plants on a stage, and the larger kinds on
boards or planks, supported on bricks or pieces of timber, in order
to prevent the earth worms from entering at their bottoms; which,
if once admitted, never fail to destroy the texture of the soil, and
render it like a honey-comb; consequently, it cannot long retain
moisture, and becomes more perviotis than necessary, to wind and
■weather, to the great injury of the plants, and trouble of the gar-
dener; for the pots or tubs, so perforated, will require to be watered
double as often, as those that are free from earth-worms.

When pots are plunged in the earth, there ought to be a piece
of shingle, board, or slate, placed immediately under the bottom of
each, to prevent the roots from working out through the holes
into the surrounding earth; for although their rooting in this way,
will cause them to grow more vigorously, it, to many, when taken
up, proves very injurious; therefore to avoid this evil as much as
possible, the pots should be turned round, at least, once a week dur-
ing the season, to break off the extending fibres that may have
pushed through those apertures at bottom.

The hard-wooded kinds are, generally, not so much injured by
this, as those of a more spongy texture; but it is ultimately, of more
injury than service to every plant, and therefore, ought to be avoid-
ed as much as possible.

3E

402 [May.

THE HOT-HOUSE.

FiRE-HEAT should now be totally discontinued, except in
the more northern parts of the eastern states, where a moderate
fire at night, during the first week of the month, may in some sea-
sons be necessary; but still continue for the Pine-Apples, a con-
stant moderate heat in the bark-bed, agreeably to the intimations

given last month.

Pine Apples.

The Pine Apple plants will now require frequent and moderate
refreshments of water, which, during the summer season, should
be given late in the afternoon; let this not be given in too great
quantities at any one time, for such, would not only damp the heat
of the bark, but also loosen the plants in the pots.

As the weather increases in heat, give air in proportion, both by
the front and roof-lights; but especially when the thermometer
rises above seventy degrees of Fahrenheit; for that is necessary,
in order to have large and good fruit. When the weather gets very
hot, the front lights must be kept open night and day, but the
roof-lights should be closed every night, particularly in cloudy
weather, to preserve the tan-pit from sudden rains, and ought to be
opened again early in the morning, especially in warm weather.

General Care of all Exotics in the Hot-House.

Continue also, to give plenty of air to the plants in all the hot-
house departments, supply them duly with proper waterings; and,
if any want shifting into larger pots, let it be done now as soon as
possible, keeping the whole clear from decayed leaves, &c. If casual
irregularities occur in the shoots or branches, prune or regulate
them, as may be required, and cut away any decayed parts; observ-
ing the same general directions as in the two preceding months.

Propagating the Plants.

You may still continue to propagate, such plants as you desire,
by cuttings, layers, suckers and seeds, in the manner directed in
March and ^firil.

Any time in this month you may plant cuttings or slips of Cac-
tuses, Euphorbiums, Aloes, Agaves, Sedums, Mesembryanthe-
mums, Stapelias, and other succulent plants, laying them in a dry
shady place a week or ten days, according as they are more or less
succulent, before they are planted, that the wounded parts may heal
over; otherwise, they are subject to imbibe too much moisture and

May.] the HOT-HOUSE. 408

rot: when they arc planted, they should be placed in the shade, or
plunged in the tan-pit till newly rooted, giving- them a little water
as necessity may require. The hardy sons may be planted in a
bed of light sandy earth, where, if they are screened with mats for
some time, they will freely take root.

Bringing out the Hot-House Plants.

About the twenty-fifth of this month, you may, in the middle
states, begin to bring out the hardier sorts of hot-house plants; if
they had been removed into the green-house eight or ten days pre-
viously, it would be of service, as there they would gradually be
prepared, hardened and become in a good condition for a removal
into the open air The more tender kinds should not be brought
out, till the first week in June, but if previously removed into the
green-house, for a week or ten days, it would be the better way;
always observing, wherever they are, to give them abundance of air,
to harden and prepare them for the transition.

In the eastern states, the above work is to be deferred, in every
instance, from one to two weeks later; according to climate and the
local situation of the place; and to the southward of the middle
slates, it may be done somewhat earlier.

Should you have no pine-apples in your hot-house, and that there
are plants permanently growing in any beds or borders therein,
the roof-lights should be totally taken off, when the other plants
are out, that these may receive the full benefit of the open air
during the summer months, &c.

As to the manner of placing and treating the pots when, and after
being brought out, I would advise the same as recommended for
the green-house plants, which see.

You must be very careful when you plunge any of your pots, to
make it a particular point to turn them round in their seats, once a
week, in order that such roots as run into the ground, through the
holes in the bottoms, may be broken off; for, though these would,
for the moment, encourage the growth of the plants, when you
come to take them up for housing, the sudden deprivation of their
usual supply of nourishment, would give them such a check, as se-
riously to injure them; and besides, they would be but ill rooted in
the pots, and badly prepared to extract the necessary nourishment
during winter.

404

JUNE.

WORK TO BE DONE IN THE KITCHEN-GARDEN.

Melons and Cucumbers.

ABOUT the first of this month, all your melons and cucum-
bers, that have been hitherto under the protection of glasses, or
paper-frames, may be fully exposed to the open air; having been
previously and gradually inured thereto. A piece of shingle or
board should be laid under each fruit, of the early melons, to pre-
serve them from the damp of the earth, which would injure their
flavour. Occasional refreshments of water will be necessary, but
particularly to the cucumbers.

Your principal or general crops of melons and cucumbers, in
the open ground, should now be kept totally free from weeds, the
ground between the plan's must be frequently hoed, and the earth
drawn gently to the stems of the latest sown; the vines should bs
laid off, in a neat and regular manner, and when any of them are
too luxuriant, check them, by nipping off the extremities of the
runners.

In the last week of this month, soav general crops of cucumbers
and melons for pickling; which is to be done in the same manner,
as directed in page 368. The long oval musk melon, and the long
prickly cucumber, are in general estimation for this purpose; but
the cluster cucumber, on account of its numerous bearing, and
small fruit, is by many preferred.

Water Melons.

If not done before, thin your water melons, leaving but three of the
best plants in each hill, and draw the earth with a hoe up round the
hills, till the stems of the plants are covered up to the seed leaves;
the ground between them must be kept perfectly free from weeds,
either by hoeing, or (if cultivated on a large scale,) by ploughing
and harrowing, in the early part of the season.

Squashes and Pumpkins.

Squashes and pumpkins may be treated in the same way, as di-
rected for Water Melons; they are more hardy, and do not require
so very particular attention; however, tiie ground must be kept
loose and free from weeds, for it will be in vain otherwise to expect
prouiable crops.

June.] THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. 405

Sweet Potatoes.

Your sweet potatoes must have earth drawn round the hills, to
enlarge them and encourage the growth of the roots; lay off the
vines regularly, and keep the ground very clean.

Cauliflowers.

The early cauliflowers, will now be producing their heads abun-
dantly; care must be taken to break down the leaves to preserve
the Howers from sun and rain, as directed in page 370.

Tl-.ose plants which are still advancing in growth, or |)art coming
into flower, should, in very dry weather, be frequently well watered;
which will greatly enlarge the size of the flowers. For this purpose,
draw the earth round each plant, bason formed, to retain the water
till soaked down about the roots. This practice is abbolulely neces-
sary in dry seasons.

The cauliflower plants from late sowing, should now be planted
out finally, as directed in page 314; taking care, either to do it in
moist or cloudy weather, or to give shade and water after planting;
a large cabbage leaf laid over each plant, will protect it considera-
bly.

Cabbages and Savoys.

Take opportunity of moist or cloudy weather, and plant out a full
crop of cabbages and savoys, from the late spring sowings; also, of
the red pickling cabbage, allowing each kind a sufficient distance
according to the nature of its growth, as directed in the former
months.

But in gardens, where there is no ground vacant, from other
crops, or where there is a necessity of making the most of every
piece of kitchen ground, you may plant the savoy and cabbage
plants between rows of forward beans, and early cauliflowers, or
swch crops as stand distant, and are soon to come off the ground;
observing to give each plant a little water immediately after plant-
ing, unless the ground is sufficiently saturated with moisture.

You may now sow seeds of any of the early heading kinds of
cabbage, such as the early Smyrna, York, Sugarloaf, or Battersea,
to come in both for small hearts and hard cabbages in autumn.

Borecole, Brussels sprouts, Jerusalem Kale, and Turnep Cabbage.

The early plants of either of the above kinds, may now be plant-
ed out, as directed in May; the late sown crops, should be thinned,
and those pulled out, planted in nursery beds, four inches asunder,
giving them a good watering when planted, and afterwards occa-
sionally, till well established: here they are to remain, till of suffi-
cient strength for planting out finally.

406 THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [June.

Broccoli.

Plant out finally, such broccoli plants as are of sufficient size;
choose for this purpose a bed of rich mellow earth, and let them
be planted at the distances mentioned in page 372.

Thin the late sown crops, and plant those pulled out, into nurse-
ry rows to obtain strength, giving them a good watering imme-
diately after planting.

Early in the month sow some more seed for a succession crop,
to produce their heads in February, Sec. For particulars see
page 372.

Celery.

The celery plants that have arrived to a sufficient size, should
now be finally planted out into trenches.

Choose for this purpose a piece of rich ground, in an open expo--
sure; mark out the trenches by line, ten or twelve inches wide, and
allow the space of three feet between trench and trench, which will
be sufficient for the early plantations.

Dig each trench a moderate spade deep, laying the dug out earth
equally on each side, between the trenches; lay three inches deep
of very rotten dung in the bottom of each trench, then pare the sides
and dig the dung and parings with an inch or two of the loose
mould at bottom, incorporating all well together, and put in the
plants.

Previous to planting, trim the tops of the plants, by cutting off
the long straggling leaves, and also the ends of their roots, leaving
the former about six inches long, and the latter two.

Let them be planted with a dibble, in single rows, along the mid-
dle of each trench, allowing the distance of four or five inches be-
tween plant and plant; as soon as planted, give them a plentiful
watering, and let them be shaded until they strike root and begin to
grow.

Small sticks may be placed across the trenches, and on these,
boards or pine planks laid lengthwise; or, pine or cedar boughs
may be laid over the plants; which are to be taken off, as soon as
they begin to grow.

The plants when grown to the height of eight or ten inches,
should have their first landing; this must be done in a dry day; the
earth should be broken small and laid in gently to both sides of the
plants, always taking care to leave the hearts and tops free; repeat-
ing it every ten or twelve days, till they are blanched of a sufficient
length for use.

Peas.

Though peas sown at this time, do not always succeed in bear-
ing abundantly, yet a few, to keep up a regular succession, may be
sown, at two or three different times in the month, and if the sea-
son should prove somewhat moist, there will be a chance of obtain-
ing a handsome crop. The large marrowfat, glory of England and

June.] THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. 407

other large kinds, may now succeed tolerably well, and it will also
be proper, to sow a few of the best hotspur and dwarf kinds.

If the weather and ground be very dry, it will be of some use to
soak them a few hours in soft river or pond water previous to sow-
ing, otherwise water the drills and then sow them.

Let those crops, if convenient, be sown in moist ground, but not
in a shady place; in such a situation, the plants would draw up and
be good for nothing; observe to allow plenty of room between the
rows, for at this season much depends on their having air and li-
berty to grow.

»isparagus.

The asparagus now running up to seed, should be cleared from
weeds, and also, your new plantations; likewise, the seedlings in-
tended for next year's planting; for if suffered to be overrun with
weeds, it would ruin them.

Transplanting Leeks.

Select a piece of good ground for this purpose, manure and dig
it well, then draw from the seed-beds a sufficiency of the stoutest
plants, trim the long fibres of the roots, and cut off the tops of the
leaves; this done, plant them in rows a foot asunder, and six inches
plant from plant in the rows, inserting their shanks into the earth
up to their leaves; by this means they will grow very large, and the
part inserted in the earth become white and tender.

Lettuces.

Transplant and sow lettuces as directed last month, in page 374.
Let this be done in moist weather, particularly the transplanting;
for if in a great drought, the plants will not succeed well: the place
must be open and fully exposed, otherwise, they will start to seed,
before their arriving at any tolerable perfection. If you are under
the necessity of planting them in dry weather, let it be done late
in the afternoon, and immediately give them a plentiful wa-
tering.

Small Sallading.

Continue to sow cresses and other small sallading, once a week oh
a shady border. They should be often refreshed with water, in dry
weather, and this ought to be repeated, both before and after the
plants appear.

Kidney-Beans.

Sow successive crops of Kidney-beans, in the beginning, middle
and towards the latter end of this month, as directed in page 375;
either of the dwarf or running kinds, may now be planted with good
success.

Should the ground happen to be very dry at the time of planting,
the drills ought to be well watered previous to the beans being

408 l-HE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [June.

dropped therein; this should not be omitted in dry weather, as it
will greatly promote the sprouting of the seeds, and the crops will
rise sooner and be more regular.

Land up the rows of kidney-beans planted last month; which
will greatly strengthen and bring forward the plants; and place
sticks or poles to the running kinds, which are now beginning to
advance in growth.

Carolina and Lima Beans.

Hoe and clean the ground between your crops of Carolina and
Lima beans; see that all are properly supported with sticks or
poles, and draw up some earth round the sle us of the plants. A
few of the early Carolina kind, may be planted about the first of
this month, for a late crop; for the method of planting, Sic. see
page 376.

Radishes.

Although radishes do not generally succeed well at this season,
yet, a few of the salmon coloured may be sown at different times in
the month: should the season prove moisl, they may do tolerably
well. Some of the short-top and white turnep-rooted kinds, may
also now be sown; and toward the middle or end of the monih, you
may sow a good crop of the white and black winter or Spanish rad-
ish, to draw early in autumn.

Carrots, Parsneps, and Onions.

The crops of carrots, parsneps and onions, must now be kept
clean and free from weeds; and if you observe that your onions in-
cline more to tops and roots, you niay with a long stick gently lay
over their tops on one side, so as to bend them, and in a few days
after, lay them back to the opposite side which will check the as-
cent of the juices and cause the bulbs to swell.

JBeets.

The crops of beet, should be kept very clean and the plants thin-
ned to proper distances, that they may h*ve room to swell and grow
large.

The seeds of these plants are generally sown in drills, or rows,
a foot or more asunder; and where that method was practised, you
can now more readily clear out the weeds and thin the plants; ob-
serving to thin them to ten inches distance in the rows; also, where
the seed was sown broad-cast, so as the plants stand promiscuous-
ly, they must likewise be cut out to ten or twelve inches distance,
plant from plant, and the roots will grow to a large size accordingly.

You may now sow succession crops of red, green, and u hiie
beet; and also of the Mangel wurtzel, or root of scarcity; ih-y will
all succeed well from this sowing, but the three last kinds are genC'
rally cultivated for their leaves, see page 195.

June.] THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. 409

Turneps.

Sow some turnep seed, early in the month, for although there is
no great prospect, at this time, of obtaining good roots, some may
be got to answer for soups, &c.

Let the seed be sown in an open exposure, immediately after the
earth is newly dug, and when raked in, the ground should be
rolled, or clapped close with the back of the spade. There is no-
thing that protects crops of turneps, cabbages. Sec. from the depre-
dations of the fly, so well as rolling; for, when the surface is ren-
dered completely smooth, these insects are deprived of the harbour
they would otherwise have, under the clods and small lumps of
earth, to which they generally resort for shelter, from such
changes of weather as are disagreeable to them.

This method will be found more effectual, than soaking the seed
in any preparation, or dusting the plants with any composition
whatever.

The advancing crops of turneps, should be hoed and thinned to
proper distances, and this ought always to be done at an early pe-
riod of their growth. As they do not grow large at this season)
six or seven inches apart, will be sufficient.

Scorzonera, Skirrets, Salsafy, and Hamburg Parsley.

Thin and clear from weeds the crops of scorzonera, salsafy, skir-
ret, and large rooted parsley; which perform either by hand or
small-hoeing; thinning out the plants to six inches distance, and
cutting up all the weeds.

Endive.

Transplant endive that is now of a sufficient size; for the me-
thod, see page 381.

Sow another crop of curled endive, to keep up a regular succes-
sion, when wanted; and also, some of the broad Batavian kind; this
grows very large, whitens well, if tied up, and is very palatable.
Sow more towards the end of the month.

Okra, Tomatoes, and Egg-Plant.

Earth up your advancing crops of okra; where too thick, thin
them to the distances mentioned in page 326, and keep the ground
free from weeds.

In the early part of this month, plant out a general crop of toma-
toes and egg-plants, as directed in pages 327, .380 and 381.

Cardoons.

Plant out cardoons in a bed of good earth, at the distance of four
feet from one another, every way: they may either be planted on

3F

410 THE FRUIT-GARDEN. [June.

the level, or in holes made bason form, at the above distances, pre-
viously laying some rotten manure in each hole, and mixing the
earth therewith; one good plant is sufficient in a place, as they rise
to the height of three or four feet and require a considerable quan-
tity of earth to blanch them. Observe, before planting, to dress
the tops and roots as directed for celery; and as they advance
in growth, they are to be earthed up for blanching, keeping the
leaves close together.

These plants are a species of Cynara, or artichoke; the stalks of
the leaves are used, when well blanched, in sallads, soups, and for
stewing, &c.

Red Peppers, or Capsicums.

In the early part of this month, you should plant out from the
seed-beds, full and general crops of the various kinds of capsicums,
as directed in page 380.

Plant Pot and other Herbs, ^'c.

Plant out from the seed-beds, the young plants of thyme, hyssop,
fnarjoram, winter savory, &c. Sec. let this be done, if possible, in
moist or cloudy weather. Prepare for that purpose some beds,
three and a half feet wide, rake the surface smooth, and put in the
plants in straight rows, setting them six or eight inches distant every
way, and water them immediately. Many of these kinds may be
planted, occasionally, as edgings, along the sides of any particular
beds or borders.

All the large growing kinds of medicinal herbs, such as angelica,
lovage, &c. ought to be planted a foot or eighteen inches asunder,
in proportion to their usual growth. You may yet make slips or
cuttings of lavender, rosemary, thyme, hyssop, 8;c. and plant them
in shady borders.

Gathering Herbs.

All kinds of herbs, such as mint, balm, lavender, clary, sage,
rosemary, &c. that are gathered for drying, or for distillation and
other purposes, should be cut off, when just beginning to come into
flower, and laid in the shade to dry gradually; which will render
them much better for any purpose, than if they were dried in the
sun.

THE FRUIT-GARDEN.

Wall and Espalier Fruit-Trees.

Where the apricot, peach, nectarine and other wall or espa-
lier trees, were neglected last month, or not carefully attended to,
you may in the early part of this, thin the fruit as then directed;

June.] THE ORCHARD. 4£1

rub off all fore-right or ill placed shoots, and train others regularly
at proper distances: be not too officious with the knife at this sea-
son, nor pull off any of the leaves from the branches, unless they
are distempered; for the pulling off the leaves will expose the fruit
too much to the sun, and thereby greatly check their growth; be-
sides it would greatly injure the buds which are formed at the foot-
stalks of those leaves. For further particulars respecting fruit-trees,
see tlie Fruit-Garden for Mai/^ which are generally applicable in
this month.

Strawberries.

The strawberry plants in general will, early in the month, be
coming into full bearing, and if watered occasionally between th,e
rows as directed in page 386, it will swell the fruit to a much larger
size, and greatly encqurage the bloom and setting of an abundant
crop.

Should the weather prove moist or cloudy, this will be a very
proper season, to make new plantations of the various kinds of
strawberries; observing the method directed in page 223. But it
would be more adviseable, at this time to plant some of the best
runner-plants of this year's production, into nursery beds in shady
borders, six inches asunder, there to remain and get strength till
September or October, and then to plant them with balls of earth
where they are to stand for fruiting. Frequent waterings will now
be very necessary for the young plantations.

Be particular in selecting the best kinds, and of the stoutest and
most vigorous growth; dress or trim their roots, and cut off all the
strings or runners, previous to planting.

Though it is not common to propagate strawberries at this sea-
son, yet if done, and duly watered till they are well rooted, the
plants will be stronger, and bear much more abundantly next season,
than if deferred till September, or October; but if the weather should
not happen to be peculiarly favourable, I would advise them to be
planted for the present, in nursery beds, in a shady border, as before
observed; taking good care to water then frequently till well
rooted.

You may, however, any time this month, plant out some of ihe
young runner-plants of the Alpine or prolific strawberry, and if
shaded and watered till they have taken fresh root, they will soon
bear fruit on the present plants, and in August and September, on
the runners produced in the intermediate time.

THE ORCHARD.

At this time there is very little to be done in the Orchard,
but a repetition of what was recommended in page 387, to which I
refer you.

412 I'HE NURSERY. [June.

It would be very proper, when you observe many of your young
fruit punctured by insects, and consequently, in a declining state,
gently to shake the trees, and pick and carry away to the pigs, such
as tall to the ground, for the reasons assigned in page 144, 8cc.
which see.

THE VINEYARD.

During the early part of this month, the Vines will be in
full bloom; which, in the middle states, generally happens about
the first week thereof, a little earlier, or later according to the sea-
son; and although the Vines may now require some attendance, it
is dangerous to administer it until the bloom is over, lest the
blossoms should be broken off thereby, or otherwise injured; but
when that period arrives, let the yoimg shoots as they advance, be
neatly and regularly tied up to the stakes, not too close, that they
may enjoy the full benefit of the sun and air; at the same time,
displace all weakly and unnecessary growths; and any young side
shoots, growing out of the main ones, should be nipped off at their
first appearance.

Towards the end of the month, or, when the bloom is over and
the fruit is set, if the weeds have made much progress, they should
be extirpated by the most convenient means.

The young vines of one, two, or three years growth, should now
be carefully tied to the poles placed for their support, and never suf-
fered to trail about on the surface of the earth; the ground mus' be
kept perfectly free from weeds, as these would rob the plants of a
great portion of their nourishment, and exhaust the ground to no
purpose.

THE NURSERY.

Weed, Shade, and Water.

You must observe in this month, as directed in the former,
to keep the ground between your rows of trees, entirely free from
weeds; for these are very injurious to the plants, and nothing can
have a worse appearance than a Nursery overgrown with weeds;
therefore, this caution cannot be too often repeated. Observe also,
to keep the seed-beds in which the seeds of trees and shrubs were
sown, perfectly clean, for these plants being young, are soon greatly
injured, if not totally destroyed, when overrun with weeds.

June.] THE NURSERY. 413

The beds of small young tender seedlings, should now be shaded
from the mid-day sun, puriicularly the pines, firs, and other ever-
greens in general; and also, the more delicate and rare deciduous
trees, siirubs, and herbaceous plants. They, however, must not be
kept close nor shadtd loo long a time, for that would draw them up
wcctk and tender; therefore, give but a slight shadins:; Irom about
ten to four or five o'clock, and that only, when the sun is powerful
and no clouds interrupt its rays.

The more choice soits of new planted trees, that is, such as were
planted late in the sprmg, should have occasional waterings; and
ob-eive to renew the mulch about their roots, where it is decayed,
for at this season, the moisture of the earth will be soon exhaled,
and the young fibres dried up when this is neglected; besides, it
will save much trouble in watering.

The seedling-beds of all kinds of trees and shrubs, but more espe-
cially the evergreens, will require frequent vvaterings in dry wea-
ther; let it always be given late in the afternoon, frequently and
moderately, as observed in page 388.

Transplanting Seedling Pines and Firs.

It has been advised by some writers on gardening, of considerable
celebrity, to' plant out in this month pif.es and firs, &c. from the
seed-beds; and asserted, " that they woiild be much stronger and
better prepared to live through the winter, by this treatment, than
if suffered to remain in the seed-beds; as their roots would be fixed
in the ground and their stems shorter " The reverse of this, I
have experienced in upwards of twenty years' practice, and there-
fore, have here noticed it, least my readers should be led astray by
such respectal)le authorities. The true method of treating these
and such plants is, frequently during the summer months, as they
advance in growth, to sill some loose earth over them, in the seed-
beds, till it comes up to the seed leaves; by which the stems are
protected, and as it were, shortened without disturbing their roots
or checking their growth; and besides, it tends to keep the moisture
confined to the earth, by preventing its too sudden evaporation, and
the loose sifted mould, attracts the dews and imbibes the rains,
when such fall, by which means the plants are kept cool, moist, and
in a constant growing state.

Propagating Evergreens'^ and other Trees and Shrubs by Layers.

Most kinds of evergreens and deciduous trees and shrubs, may
now be propagated by laying the present year's shoots; being soft
and tender, they will emit roots much more freely than the older
wood; and several sorts that would not root for two years if laid in
spring or autumn, by this method, will be well rooted the autumn
twelve months after laying, and many kinds before the ensuing
winter. Virgin's Bower, Passion-flowers, Trumpet-flowers, com-
mon Jasmine, and most of the climbing plants, root immediately,
when laid in this way. For the various methods of performing this
operation, see page 289,

414 'I'HE NURSERY. [June.

After these are laid, you should observe to water them occasion-
ally in dry weather, which will greatly promote their rooting. But
these waterings should not be too often repeated, nor too abundant-
ly given at a time, for that would rot the tender fibres, as they pro-
ceed from the layers; therefore the best method is to lay mulch on
the surface of the ground, after the layers are put down, to prevent
the sun from drying it too fast; then a little water will be sufficient,
and the layers will more certainly take root.

Trim up Evergreens.

Evergreens should now be trimmed up, according to the uses
for which they are designed; for if you suffer them to grow rude in
summer, they cannot be so easily reduced afterwaids; besides, the
ruder they grow, the more naked they will be near the stems.

JVeivly- Grafted and Budded Trees.

Take off the clay and loosen the bandages of your grafted trees,
and where any have made remarkably vigorous shoots and seem
to need support, to protect them from the power of violent winds,
but more especially, in exposed situations, let stakes be placed
thereto, and the shoots bound to them with strings of bass, or such
like.

The vigorous shoots from the buds inserted last season, may un-
der like circumstances require similar support, which ought to be
given when deemed necessary.

Be very particular to rub off such young shoots proceeding from
the stocks, as are independent of the grafts, or the inserted bud-
shoots; for those, if suffered to remain, would rob the grafts and
budded shoots of a great portion of nourishment, and therefore,
ought to be displaced as often as they appear.

Budding.

Budding might now be practised, on most kinds of trees and
shrubs, but when done at this time, the inserted buds, generally,
grow in the present year, and the shoots arising therefrom, are much
weaker, and worse prepared to withstand the winter frost, than
those produced in spring, from the buds inserted the preceding au-
tumn; and in fact, such seldom make but indifferent trees. There-
fore, it will be much better not to attempt this work, except upon
a few roses or other shrubs, until the latter end of July and the au-
tumnal months, as hereafter directed. The method of performing
the operation you will find in the Xursery for July.

June.] 4^5

THE PLEASURE, OR FLOWER-GARDEN,

Hyacinths and Tulips.

Most of your Hyacinths and Tulips will, in the course of
this month, be fit for taking up; and then are to be treated as,
directed in pages 391 and 392.

Ranunculuses.

When the foliage and flower-stems of the ranunculuses appear
brown and dry, vegetation has then ceased, and it is the exact time
to take up the roots, because if they are suffered to remain in the
ground till rainy weather ensues, the roots will begin to shoot
afresh, and thereby sustain a considerable injury. When the roots
are taken up, their stems, &c. should be cut off close, and they
should be placed in a shady, airy room, or situation, to dry gradual-
ly; but before this is perfectly accomplished, it will be proper to
clean and separate them, because, when quite dried, they become
hard and brittle, and there is great danger of breaking off their
claws: some may be separated into many complete roots, although
they are so closely connected, as on a superficial observation, to
have the appearance of only one large root.

Nothing remains to be done, till the return of the planting season,
except to stow the sorts separately in bags or boxes, for the sake of
convenience, in a dry room; in which state, they will retain their
vegetative power for two years, but will be much weakened if kept
out of the ground till the second.

Anemones.

The appearance that indicates the proper time of taking up the
anemones roots, and their subsequent treatment, are the same as for
ranunculuses, with only the following caution, viz. that as the roots
are exceedingly brittle, it is necessary to handle them very gently
upon dressing or cleaning away their fibres and the soil that ad-
heres to them; however, should only small pieces break off, such
should not be thrown away, as each will, in the course of two years,
become a blooming root.

The constitution of anemones undergoes considerable changes
with age, which perhaps is, in a greater or smaller degree, the case
with all other vegetables. The anemone will not last more than
twelve or fifteen years* without degenerating, unless it be fre-

* The ranunculus will last about twenty or twenty-five years in perfec-
tion; it afterwards degenerates and perishes. Tulips and many other kinds
of flowers of vigorous constitutions, will continue for a very long time in
strength and beauty, so long as to render it difficult, if not impossible, to as-
certain the period of their duration.

416 THE PLEASURE, OR [June.

quently removed to a different soil and situation, nor will any re-
moval protract or prolong its existence more than thirty or forty
years; consequently, the collection should be renewed, frequently,
by I'aising new varieties from seed. It blows, generally, in the
greatest perfection, from the fifth to the tenth or twelfth year, after
which, it becomes gradually smaller and weaker; and if the flower
was originally very full and double, with age it loses that property
and the petals diminish in number, become small and irregular,
and finally the sort perishes.

Taking up early Floivering Bulbs, in general.

All the different kinds of spring flowering bulbs, such as Fritilla-
ries, Crown Imperials, Crocuses, Snowdrops, Sec. whose leaves are
now decayed, may be taken up and treated as directed, more parti-
cularly, in the Flower-Garden for last month.

Guernsey and Belladonna Amaryllises.

The roots of the Guernsey and Belladonna Amaryllis, m.ay now,
if their leaves are quite decayed, be taken up, their offsets separated,
and all the roots treated as directed for the former, in page 398;
with this difference, that during the winter months, the Belladonna
will require rather more care and protection than the Guernsey
Amaryllis; but both may be considered as /lurdy green-house plants.
The roots ought to be replanted before the end of July, as both
kinds flower late in autumn. The soil in which to plant them,
should be a good fresh loam, mixed with about a fourth part of fine
sand, and the roots are not to be covered, when planted in pots,
more than half an inch above their crowns.

These plants commonly flower in October, and in some seasons
not till November; but on taking in the green-house plants, those
should be removed with them, and placed in the windows, where
they will display their beautiful flowers in great perfection.

In such of the southern states, as the winter frosts are not very
severe, both these kinds may be planted in the open ground, and
two or three inches of tan laid over the beds on the approach of
frost, to protect the bulbs therefrom; or, the beds may be covered
at such times, with mats laid on hoops, placed archwise over them
for that purpose.

Hardy Autumnal Flowering Bulbs.

The beginning or middle of this month is still a proper time, to
take up your yellow Amaryllises, Colchicums, autumnal Crocuses,
and such other autumnal flowering bulbs as have their leaves decay-
ed, or in a declining state.

These may be planted again immediately, after separating their
offsets, or kept up dry till July or early in August, and then plant-
ed where they are to flower in October, &c. The roots when taken
up are to be carefully dried in the shade as directed for tulips, &c.

June.] FLOWER-GARDEN. 417

and it will be well to plant them either in or before the last week
of July or the first in August. By planting them at this time, they
will blow stronger than if kept too long out of the ground. All
these sorts in their flowering state, are generally unattended with
leaves, which spring up after the flowers fade.

It is not absolutely necessary to take up these bulbs every year,
once in two or three years will do; but then it must be done, in
order to separate the offsets for increase, and to plant the strong
roots in fresh earth, which will cause them to shoot and flower
much more luxuriantly.

Cyclamens.

There are five different species of Cyclamen described, viz.
the Cyclamen Coum, europaum, persicum, hedeicefbiium, and indi-
cum; the first a naiive of the south of Europe, the second of Aus-
tria, the third of Persia, the fourth of Italy, and the fifth of Ceylon;
with several varieties arising from these species. They are all too
tender to bear the winter frosts of the middle and eastern states,
and consequently must be treated as green house-plants; where they
should be kept in the front windows, to have the benefit of as
much light and air as possible, 'i he leaves being generally de-
cayed about this time, the roots may be taken up and replanted im-
mediately into a composition of, one half good loamy earth, one
fourth sand, and one fourth light moory earth, or earth of rotten
leaves, all being well incorporated together. They do not require
to be taken up ofiener than every second or third year, and then
only, to give them fresh earth, as they never increase by offsets,
and are only propagated by seed, or by cutting the roots through
across the crowns, which latter method is, generally, very unsuc-
cessful.

The first and second sorts flower in January and February, the
third in March and April, and the others in September and October,
they continue a long lime in bloom, and display flowers of a curious
structure and delicately beautiful. The pots containing these roots
must be kept during the summer months, where they will not be
niuch exposed to the sun, and in that time should have but little
water, as their roots are, generally, then in an inactive slate, and
would soon rot by too much moisture.

All the sorts may be propagated by seed, which should be sown
soon after being ripe, or early in spring, and covered near half an
inch deep; they must always be protected from frost and also from
the summer sun; the September following, you are to lay over the
roots, not covering the leaves, hall an inch or better of good loose
sandy earth, and during the following winter and ensuing summer,
protect them as before. Any time in the summer of the second
or third year that the leaves are decayed, take up the roots, and
replant them in pots of fresh earth, covering them one inch deep;
here they remain till they flower, which will generally be in the
fourth and filth years after sowing, but sometimes, when taken good
care of, and treated with a suitable composition, some of the kinds
will flower early in the third year from seed,
3G

41 i^ THE PLEASURE, OR [June.

Pinks.

Your supcrlj pinks, during the time of bloom, should be defended
from the sun by an awning of some kind, and the soil ought to be
kept regularly moist by soft water, administered between the plants,
carefully avoiding to wet the blossoms.

The most approved method of propagating pinks, is by piping
them as directed for carnations; they seldom fail to strike sufficient
root, in two or three weeks: when well rooted, they may be
transplanted into an open part of the garden, on a bed of common
garden mould, fresh dug up, where it will in a few weeks, be easily
discernible, which are the most proper to place on the best bed for
bloom. The time to pipe pinks is immediately previous to, or
during the bloom, or indeed, as soon as the new shoots are grown
of a sufficient length for that purpose. They may also, be propa-
gated by slips, taken off now, or in the spring or autumn.

New sorts of pinks arc produced from seed, but this should be
gathered from such as have superior properties.

w3 Description of the proijerties of a fine Double Pink.

The stem should be strong and erect, and not less than twelve
inches high. The calyx rather smaller and shorter, but nearly si-
milar in form and proportion to that of a carnation, as well as the
formation of the flower, which should not be less than two inches
and a half in diameter.

The petals should be numerous, large, broad, and substantial, and
have very finely fringed or serrated edges, free from large coarse
deep notches or indentures; in short, they approach nearest to per-
fection, when the fringe on the edge is so fine, as to be scarcely
discernible: but it would be a very desirable object to obtain them
perfectly rose-leaved, that is, without any fringe at all.

The broadest part of the limina, or broad end of the petals,
should be perfectly white and distinct from the eye, unless it be or-
namented by a continuation of the colour of the eye round it,* bold,
clean, and distinct, leaving a considerable portion of white in the
centre, perfectly free from any tinge or spot.

The eye should consist of a bright, or dark rich crimson, or pur-
ple, resembling velvet: but the nearer it approaches to black, the
more it is esteemed; its proportion should be about equal to that
of the white, that it may neither appear too large nor too small.

Carnations.

The calyx of many sorts of carnations, contains a great number
of petals, which, as they increase in bulk, will distend and burst it,
if not timely prevented: this will generally happen a few days prc-

* When the corolla consists of petals of this description, it is denominated
a Laced Pink.

June.] FLOWER-GARDEN, 419

vious to the proper time of the blossoms opening, and will, if ne-
glected, by letting out the petals on one side, and thereby producing
a loose irregular appearance, totally destroy that compact, grace-
ful circular form, which a perfect flower ought to possess, and which
is one of its greatest ornaments: but this disagreeable effect may
be easily avoided, by fastening a small narrow slip of bladder round
the middle of the pod, where it is most swelled, and appears to have
the greatest inclination to burst. The slip of bladder should be
rather longer than is required to go once round, so that one end of
it may lay over the other a little, which by the application of some
strong gum water, will adhere firmly together, and answer the
purpose completely. Small slips of wet bass may be substituted
for those of bladder, and being tied with a single knot round the
same part of the calyx, will answer the purpose.

Others, place upon the calyx, thin pieces of card cut circular, of
a proper size to suit the blossom, with a hole in the centre, adapted
to the size of the pod, and cut quite through, from thence to the
periphery, in order to admit tl»e stem, after which to draw them
up round the calyx: these are to be placed close to the guard
leaves, or outside petals, to support them horizontally; and will,
when extended just as far as the extreme points of the petals, give
the flower a neat and pleasing appearance; but these are apt to
warp, when long exposed to the weather, especially after being wet,
and must, in such cases, be either taken off entirely or replaced
with new ones, as they will no longer answer the intended pur-
pose.

Either of the above methods may, and should, be resorted to, in
order to have the fine large bursting kinds of carnations and pinks,
to blow to the greatest advantage.

When the major part of your elegant carnations are in bloom,
an awning should be placed over the whole, so as to be drawn up
or let down by means of pullies. The same frame that was used
ft)r tulips or hyacinths, would answer this purpose extremely well.

In order that the flowers should appear to the greatest advantage,
it is necessary that the pots should stand upon a stage erected
theatre-like; and it would be an additional advantage, to have the
flowers suspended from the sticks, placed in the pots for their sup-
port, by small pieces of fine elastic wire, of unequal lengths, to
support them in a natural, easy, and graceful manner, neither too
near together nor remote from each other; one end of the wire,
should be introduced into the stick by means of a small awl, and
there fixed sufficiently tight, to prevent its being drawn out by
the weight of the flower; the other end of the wire should be form-
ed into a small ring, about a quarter of an inch in diameter, to in-
close the stem below the clayx; this ring should be a little open
on one side to admit the stem freely without bruising it, which
would materially injure the bloom.

The pots must be kept regularly and constantly watered during
the bloom, and no favourable opportunity should be neglected, to
allow them the full advantage of exposure to light and air; but no
rain should be admitted to the blossoms, at any period of their
bioom.

420 '^HE PLEASURE, OR [June.

It is not adviseable to let every pod blow, because it would ren-
der each blossom smaller, than if only two or three were left on each
plunt: it is, therefore, proper in this case, to cut oft' or draw oui the
small lateral pods, close to the main stem, as soon as they appear,
in order that the remainder may have time to reap due benefit by
it; but those sorts that have remarkably large short pod-, abound-
ing with petals, (commonly called bursters) should be suffered to
bloom them all, or the greater part, althougli, in general, three or
four pods are as many as ought to be suffered to blow on one plant.

Modern Florists divide the carnations into four classes

1. Flakes; of two colours only, and their stripes large, going quite
through the leaves.

2. Bizards; with flowers striped or variegated with three or four
different colours, in regular spovs and stripes.

3. Piquettes or Fiquettees; having a white ground, and spotted or
pounced with scarlet, red, purple, or other colours,

4. Painted Ladies; these have the petals of a red or purple colour
on the upper side, and white underneath.

*3 Description of the Properties of a fine Variegated Double
Carnation.

The stem should be strong, tall, and straight; not less than thir-
ty, nor more than forty-five inches high. The flower should be at
least three inches in diameter, and the petals well formed, neither
so many as to appear crowded, nor so few as to appear thin. The
lower or outer circle of petals, commonly called the guard leaves,
should be particularly substantial; they should rise perpendicularly
about half an inch above the calyx, and then turn ofl' gracefully in
a horizontally direction, supporting the interior petals; winch siiould
decrease gradually in size, as they approach the centre, which
should be well filled with them. All the petals should be regularly
disposed, and lie over each other in such a manner, as that their
respective and united beauties may meet the eye altogether; they
should be nearly flat, or, at most, have but a small degree of in-
flection at the broad end: their edges should be perfectly entire,
(or what is called rose leaved) without notch, fringe, or indenture.
The calyx should be at least an inch in length, sufficiently strong
at the top, to keep the base of the petals in a close and circular body.
The colours should be distinct, and the stripes regular, narrowing
gradually to the claws of the petal, and there ending in a fine point.
Almost one half of each petal, should be of a clear white, and free
from spots.

Bizards, or such as contain two or more colours, upon a white
ground, are esteemed rather preferable to Flakes, which have but
one, especially when their colours are remarkably rich, and very
regularly distributed.

Scarlet, purple, and pink, are the three colours most predomi-
nant in the carnation; the two first are seldom to be met with in
ihe same flower, but the purple and pink very frequently.

June.] FLOWER-GARDEN. 421

When the scarlet predominates, and is united with a paler colour,
or, as it someiimes happeiis, with a very deep purple upon a while
ground, it constitutes a scarlet Bizard, of which there are many
varieties, some richer and others paler in their colours, as is the
case with all the rest.

Pink Bizardfi, arc so called when the pink abounds. Purple Bi-
zards, when the purple abounds. Crimson Bizards, consist of a
deep purple and rich pink.

When the pink Jlake is very high in colour, it is distinguished
by the appellation of the rose Jiake; but there are some so nearly
in the medium between pink and scarlet, that it can scarcely be de-
fined to which class they belong.

Propagating Carnations by Laying and Piping.

When carnations, &c. are propagated in the open air, by their
shoots or layers connected with the mother plant, the operauon is
called laying; but when they are propagated by cuttings, taken
from the original plant, and by the assistance of artificial meanS]
caused to strike root in a confined air, it is called piping them.

The operation of laying, or piping ib to com".iencc a.-, soon as the
plants are in full bloom; nevertheless, those who are particularly
desirous to preserve their bloom in the greatest pertection, may de-
fer it till the flowers are on the decline; but others anxious to have
their plants strong and well roottd early in autumn, with a view
that the layers may be better prepared to endure the severities of the
ensuing winter, begin to lay at the commencement of the bloom;
at which time, the plants being full of juices and vigour, the layers
are the better nourished and supported, and soon strike root: but
it must be allowed that the bloom is considerably impaired, by the
wounds inflicted in the operation, particularly so, when performed
in an early stage of it; the old plants seldom survive, unless very
strong and sound, or some of the upper young shoots be left, such
as are too short to be laid with convenience; these will encourage
and continue the circulation of the juices if suffered to remain.

Previous to entering on the operation of laying, you must be pro-
vided with a sufficient number of wooden or other pegs, each to be
about five or six inches long, and formed somewhat like the figure
7, that is, with a short hooked end. The operator should likewise
be provided with a table on which to place the pots, for the greater
convenience in the examination, dressing, and laying of the shoots,
also with a sharp pen-knife, and some fresh compost earth.

The layer may be supposed to have four or five joints, more or
less; the lower leaves next the root, are all to be cut or stripped oft'
close, to within two or three joints of the extremity of the layer,
and its extreme points are to be shortened by cutting the tops oft'
with the knife, so as to leave them only an inch and a half, or two
inches in length, from the joint whence they proceed.

Ail the layers in the pots are to be thus treated or prepared be-
fore any further procedure be made; the surface of the earth is
then to be cleared of what have fallen on it, and should be stirred up

422 THE PLEASURE, OR [June.

about an inch deep: the pot is then to be filled up nearly level, with
seme light rich compost not of too fine a grain.

The incision immediately follows: the knife should have a small,
thin, and very sharp blade; it is to be introduced on that side the
layer next the ground, in a sloping direction upwards, to commence
a quarter of an inch below the second or third clean joint from the
extremity, and continue through the middle of that joint, and half
or three quarters of an inch above it, the small portion left under,
and connected with the joint, is to be cut off horizontally, quite
close to the bottom of the joint, but not into it, as it is from the outer
circle of the bottom of the joint that the fibres proceed, consequent-
ly, that part should not be injured.

After the incision is made, which should be through the middle
of the joint. Sec. and the lower part dressed as before directed, the
layer is to be gently forced down to the earth, with great care to
avoid breaking it off, or even cracking it at the joint, which would
prevent a due communication of the juices of the old plant, so ne-
cessary for the support of the layer, till it has formed sufficient
root to support itself: it would likewise render it more likely to de-
cay on the application of water.

The layer is to be held down to the surface of the earth, by one of
the pegs before described, which is to be forced into the soil, close
behind the joint where the incision was made, observing at the same
time, to keep the slit a little open; and it is to be observed that the
joint from whence the fibres are expected to proceed, should be
covered about an inch deep with good compost earth, and not deeper;
for the influence of the air is necessary to the free rooting of the
layer. The remainder of the stalk of the layer should lay, as much
as possible, upon or above the surface of the pot; but must by no
means be covered too deep.

Carnations, and pinks growing in the open ground, in beds or
borders. Sec. may be propagated by laying them in like manner as
above; or either, may be propagated by pipings as follows.

Piping Carnations and Pinks.

For this purpose, it is necessary to form a bed of fine light mould,
or old compost earth, which should be moderately moistened and
rendered rather compact than otherwise; then take a hand or bell-
glass, and with it mark its dimensions on the surface of the soil, in
order to know where to stick in the pipings, so as to lose no room,
or endanger their being disturbed when the glass is placed over
them.

The cuttings intended to be piped are to have two complete
joints, that is to say, they are to be cu( off horizontally, close under
the second joint: the extremities, or points of the leaves, are like-
wise to be shortened, as for laying, which will leave the whole length
of the piping about two inches: as soon as thus prepared, they may
be thrown into a bason of soft water for a few minutes, to plump.
They are then to be taken out of the bason singly, and forced into
the earth in their wet state, not more than an inch deep, and about
two inches asunder every way.

June.] FLOWER-GARDEN. 423

When a sufficient number for the glass are thus placed regularly,
they are to be very gently watered, in order that the earth may ad-
here more closely to them and thereby keep out the air; after this
watering they are to remain open, but not exfiosed to the sun^ till
their leaves become perfectly dry, after which the glass is to be
placed over them carefully, in the same mark ihat was made by it
on the surface of the soil, before the insertion of the pipings.

The bottom edges of the glass, or glasses, are to be forced a little
into the earth to keep out the influence of the external air and to
preserve a moist atmosphere about the pipings, till their young ra-
dicles are established and begin to act; for if fully exposed to the
air before that period, it would carry off from the leaves, &c. a
greater portion of juices than the young plants could, for the pre-
sent, extract from the earth, and consequently they must perish
thereby. This is the particular reason, why cuttings of every kind,
succeed better when thus treated, than when left exposed to the in-
fluence of the weather.

The pipings should have a little of the morning sun, but must be
shaded from it when the heat increases; this will easily be effected
by placing mats upon a slight frame of hoops or laths, erected over
the bed, about two feet above it.

The glasses should be occasionally taken off, for half an hour at
a time, early in the morning, or late in the afternoon to admit fresh
air; if this material point is neglected, the consequence will be a
green mossy appearance on the surface of the earth, and an univer-
sal mouldiness amongst the plants, which will destroy them.

When the fibres are formed, which the additional verdure and
growth of the plants will demonstrate, the glasses should be placed
over them very lightly, in order that more air may be admitted; and
when they become tolerably well rooted, the glasses being no longer
necessary, should be entirely taken away; continue to water them
frequently, but moderately, as they progress in growth, and for
their further treatment, see the Floiver-garden, for next month.

Some sorts of carnations succeed much better by piping than
laying, and make healthier plants: it requires attention and ex-
perience to distinguish such sorts from the rest, which must depend
wholly on the discernment of the cultivator.

Plantins: Carnation and Pink Seedlings.

The Carnation and pink seedlings sown early in spring, may now
be planted into nursery beds, in rows, eight or nine inches asunder,
and plant from plant five or six inches, there to remain till Septem-
ber or October, when they are to be planted at greater distances to
remain for flowering.

Person who are fond of carnations and pinks, ought to sow some
seed of each sort every year, for it is by this means, that all the fine
new varieties of these charming flowers, are obtained.

When new sorts are procured in this way, they are to be increas-
ed by layers or pipings, and vrill generally keep to their original

424 THE PLEASURE, OR [June.

colours; but when propagated by seed, very few will be found to
possess the same colours and properties as the mother plant.

Double Sweet William.

The fine kinds of double sweet william may now be propagated,
either by slips or by laying the young shoots, as directed for car-
nations; in either way, they will root freely, but if the slips are
planted, they will require shade as well as occasional waterings, for
ten or twelve days after.

Transplanting Annuals.

You may now transplant into the borders and other places where
wanted, all the different kinds of annual flowers, that succeed in that
way, and that stand too close where they had been sown; such as
French and African Marigolds, China Asters, Cock's-combs, Chry-
santhemums, China Pinks, China Hollyhocks, Balsams, Amaran-
thuses of various sorts, Gomphrena globosa, and many other kinds,
observing to do this in moist or cloudy weather, if possible, and to
give them shade and frequent refreshments of water, till newly
rooted: let them be taken up and transplanted, with as much earth
as possible about their roots, whether into flower-pots or else-
where.

Thinning and Supporting Flowering Plants, ^"c.

Wherever you have sown annual flower seeds in patches, &c. and
that they have grown too thick, you must thin them to proper dis-
tances according to their respective habits of growth, so as to allow
them full liberty to attain the utmost perfection.

Place sticks for the support of the various kinds, that require it,
whether annual, perennial, biennial, or climbing plants, as directed
in page 398, observing the method there recommended.

Cut oif, close to the ground, the decaying flower-stems of such
perennial plants as are past flowering, and clear the roots from
dead leaves; but where intended to save seed from any of the kinds,
leave for that purpose some of the principal stems.

Trim, dress, and tie up, any disorderly growing plants, pick off
all withered leaves, and cut out decayed parts.

Propagating Fibrous-rooted Plants by Cuttings.

You may still continue to propagate the double scarlet-lychnis,
double-rocket, lychnideas or phloxes, with many other like kinds,
by cuttings of the flower-stalks, as directed for the scarlet- lychnis,
in page 397.

Transplanting Seedling Perennials and Biennials.

Transplant from the seed-beds the early sown perennial and bien-
nial seedling flower plants, that are gro>vn to a sufficient size; such

June.] FLOWER-GARDEN. 425

as sweet-williams, sweet scabious, Canterbury-bells, rose-campion
and monk's-hood, soapwort, valerian, Chinese ixia, Asclepiases,
Asters and Rhexias; Coreopsis, Hibiscuses, Dracocephalums, &c.
Sec. &c.

Prepare for these, three or four feet wide beds, of good earth,
and plant them by line, at six inches distance every way, water them
immediately, and if the weather be very dry, give occasional shade
and waterings till they have taken root and begin to grow. The
plants are to remain in these beds until autumn or spring, and
are then to be planted out finally into the beds or borders, where
they are intended to flower the ensuing year.

Stock- Gilliflowers and Wall-flowers.

The stock-gilliflowers and wall-flowers are not sufficiently hardy,
to bear the winter frosts of the middle or eastern states; therefore,
it will be necessary to plant the seedlings of these kinds in some
convenient place, where a garden frame may be placed over them
in winter, on which to lay boards or any slight covering for their
protection, as directed in November. Or you may plant them now
in the open borders to grow till September, then to be taken up
and potted, and in November they are to be removed into their
winter quarters: or, they may, immediately, be planted into small
pots, which are to be plunged into some shady border, where you
can give them water during the season, according to their necessities.

Trim Box Edgings.

Take advantage of the first moist weather that happens after the
middle of this month, in which to clip and dress your box edgings;
for if done in dry or parching weather, they are apt to turn foxy,
and, consequently, lose much of their beauty.

The edgings should be cut very neat, even at top and both sides,
and ought not to be suffered to grow higher than two or three inches,
nor broader than two. When the edgings of box are kept near
that size, they look extremely neat, but if permitted to grow to the
height of four, or five, or six inches, and perhaps near as much in
breadth, they then assume a clumsy and heavy appearance, and de-
prive the beds and borders of that apparent roundness, so necessary
to set them off" to advantage.

Dressing the Floiver -Borders and Shrubberies, Sfc.

The flower-borders, beds, shrubbery-clumps, and all other orna*
mental compartments, must now be kept remarkably clean and neat;
and no weeds suff'ered to appear, or at least to grow to any conside-
rable size, in any of these places. The weeds must be extermi-
nated immediately on their appearance, either by hoe or hand, occa-
sionally, and this should be performed in a dry day; if with the hoe,
cutting them up within the ground, and raking them off imme-
diately.

3 H

426 1'HE GREEN-HOUSE. [June.

Examine the evergreens and flowering shrubs, and where any
have made disorderly shoots, let such be cut clean out, or shortened,
as you may deem expedient; in order to preserve the heads in due
form and of an elegant appearance.

Watering.

Occasional waterings must be given to all your late planted shrubs
and flowers, and particularly to the annual, perennial, and biennial
flower plants, newly planted out into nursery beds.

Your entire stock of plants, in pots and boxes, seedlings and
others, must be watered as often as the earth about them becomes
dry and unfriendly to vegetation; and your carnation and other
layers, must be duly attended to in this respect, to preserve the earth
about them moderately moist, and only so.

For some useful observations, in respect to watering, see page
389.

Grass and Chmvel Walks,

The grass and gi'avel-walks, &c. must be treated constantly dur-
ing the summer and autumn, as directed in page 399.

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

General care of the Green-IIouse Plants.

The plants being now out and fully exposed to the air, will
require a constant supply of water; it is impossible to say how of-
ten it ought to be administered, or how much should be given at a
time, as the state of weather, the different constitutions and habits
of the plants, and also the size of the pots or tubs as well as of the
plants themselve, make a material difference in that respect. The
only true guide is the state of the earth in the pots or tubs, which
should always be kept moist and in a proper condition to promote
and encourage vegetation. In very hot weather, the plants that are
in small pots, will require some water, both morning and evening,
at other times, once a day will be sufficient; but as the plants have
no other nourishment but what they extract from the earth within
the pots or tubs, it ought to be a general rule to keep it constantly
moist, but not too wet.

The best water for this purpose is such as is taken from rivers or
ponds, where it is fully exposed to the sun and air; so that if you have
no other than spring or well water, it should always be exposed, in
cisterns, &c. to the sun and air, at least twenty-four hours before it
is used.

June.] THE GREEN-HOUSE. 427

You never should put sheep-dung, or any other, in the water, as
is practised by many persons to the great injury of their plants; for
these strongly impregnated waters, instead of affording nourish-
ment, cause the leaves to change to a pale sickly colour, and ulti-
mately bring on a general debility: they operate like hot liquors
on human bodies, which at first taking, seem to add new vigour,
yet, after some time, leave the body weaker than before.

If mowings of short grass, or some moss, be spread on the surface
earth, of the large tubs or pots of oranges, lemons, &c. it will pre-
serve the moisture, and defend the upper roots from the sun and
drying air.

Such of the pots, with plants, as are plunged in the earth, must be
turned fully round in their seats, once a week, to break off such
fibres as extend through the holes at bottom, into the surrounding
earth; for the reasons of doing this, see pages 40 1 and 403.

Some people thin, what they consider, the superabundant blossoms
of oranges and lemons; this I do not approve of, as it is probable that
such as would set the best fruit, might be plucked off as well as any
other; therefore, it will be the better way, to suffer the whole bloom
to remain, and if too abundant a crop of fruit should happen to set,
to thin them soon after, to a sufficient number. However, where
some are wanted for making orange-flower water, the smallest
may be picked off, where they appear in clusters, leaving the
largest and most promising. Any declining myrtles or other hard-
wooded plants, may be greatly restored to strength and vigour, by
turning them out of their pots, earth and all, and placing the balls in
baskets made of peeled or dried willows, and plunging these in the
open borders till September; when they are to be taken up, the
extending roots trimmed off, the baskets cut away, and the plants
with the entire balls replanted in suitable sized pots or tubs, after
which, they are to be placed in the shade till housed.

Propagating the Plants.

Myrtles may be propagated abundantly towards the middle or
latter end of the month, by slips or cuttings of the present
year's wood, as may also Hydrangeas, Fuschias, China and Ota-
heite roses; Coronillas, Bupthalmum frutlcosum, Geraniums, Jas-
mines, Heliotropiums, and almost every other kind of shrubby or
under shrubby plants; observing when dressed and the under
leaves taken off, to plant them, three, four, or five inches deep, ac-
cording to their -respective lengths, in wide garden pans or pots
filled with light rich earth, or into beds of similar earth, where
they can have occasional shade and waterings till rooted. However,
the covering of them with bell-glasses, will greatly facilitate their
rooting and promote their growth, which, for the reasons assigned
in page 423, is by far the most ehgible method, but particularly for
woody plants, and such others as are not of the succulent tribe.

This is also a very proper time to propagate succulent plants, of
most kinds, which are to be treated as directed in page 402, under
the article, firofiagating (he filants.

428 THE HOT-HOUSE. [Juke

Transplanting Seedling Exotics.

You should now transplant, separately, into small pots, any ad-
vanced young seedling exotics, which were raised this year from
seed; giving them shade and occasional waterings, till newly
rooted.

Budding.

Any time this month you may bud oranges, lemons, citrons and
shaddocks; the buds are to be taken, not from the shoots n:ade
this season, as they are not yet sufficiently ripe, but from those pro-
duced last autumn, which will now take freely, and produce hand-
some shoots in the present year.

In about tliree weeks or a month, the buds will be taken, when
you are to untie the bandages, and soon after, head down the stocks
of such as are plump, fresh, and well united, to within four inches
of the buds, cuttuig off all side branches and suffering no other
buds to grow but the inserted ones: as the shoots advance tie
them to the spurs left for that purpose, to prevent their being bro-
ken oft" by winds, or displaced by any other accidents.

Budding, hovvever, should not at this time be generally practised;
for the buds nQW inserted will start in a few weeks, and the shoots
produced thereby, will not be as ripe, nor, consequently, in as good
condition lo stand the winter, as those produced in the early part of
the season, from the buds inserted in August. For the method of
budding, see the .Nursery in July.

Cape and other Green-House Bulbs.

The green-house bulbs, and tuberous-rooted plants, natives of the
Cape of Good Hope, &c. whose leaves are now decayed, such as
Gladioluses, Ixias, Watsonias, Anthoiizas, Ornithogalums, Moreas,
&c. may be taken up and immediately transplanted, or they may be
kept up till September, and if carefully wrapped in dry moss, it will
tetjd greatly to their preservation; but there are some kinds which
will require to be planted into pots of fresh earth immediately, such
as CvcUmens. 8cc. and all the autumnal flowering bulbs, such as
the Guernsey and Belladonna Amaryllises, must not be kept longer
out ot the ground than the end of next month, as that would greatly
weaken their bloom.

THE HOT-HOUSE.

The more tender kinds of exotics, which could not, with
safety, be brought out into the open air the hitter end of last month,
should now be placed where intended to remain during summer.

July.] THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. 429

Their subsequent treatment whilst out, being exactly similar to
that directed for the green-house plants, in this, and the preceding
month, induces me, in order to avoid repetitions, to refer you to
those articles. But let it be observed, that although most of the
shrubby kinds will require abundance of water at this season, yet,
that article must be administered with rather a sparing hand, to the
succulent tribe.

Pine Apples.

The Pine- Apple plants must now have abundance of air, night and
day, by keeping all the upright front lights slided open, and also the
roof lights, except during heavy rains, when the roof-lights must be
kept close to preserve the bark-pit from too much wet. The plants
will, likewise, require frequent refreshments of water, but this
should not be given too copiously at one time.

Some of the most forward Pine-Apples will, about the end of the
month, be advancing towards maturity; be careful at that time to
give such plants but little water, for too much would spoil the fla-
vour of the fruit.

The succession Pines must, likewise, have abundance of air, and
a sufficiency of water, to keep them in a regular and constant state
of vegetation.

Propagating Hot -House Plants.

Continue to propagate the various kinds of plants, belonging to
this department, by cuttings, layers, offsets, suckers and seeds, as
directed in the preceding months.

All the succulent tribe may now be easily propagated by suckers,
slips, cuttings. Sec. laying them when taken off in a shady place,
for a week ot ten days, more or less, according to the degree of
succulency, before they are planted.

JULY.

WORK TO BE DONE IN THE KITCHEN-GARDEN.

Clean and prepare the ground, where your early crops oi
cauliflowers and cabbages grew, and also, any other vacant spots,
in order to receive such seeds and plants, as are proper to supply
the table with good vegetable productions in autumn and winter.

Melons and Cucumbei's, <§*c.

Your crops of melons and cucutnbers, should now be kept very
clean and free from weeds, the spaces between the hills must be

430 J^HE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [July.

carefully hoed, in dry weather, without injuring the vines; also,
hoe and weed the crops of water-melons, squashes, and pump-
kins, See. for unless they are kept perfectly clean, good fruit and
numerous produclions cannot be expected.

Sowing Melons for Mangoes.

The first week of this month is a very proper time, in the middle
states, to sow a principal crop of melons for mangoes; they are to
be sown and managed as directed in page 368 and 404. The long,
smooth, musk melon, is generally sown for that purpose.

Sowing Cucumbers for Pickling, Sfc.

Sow in the first week or ten days of this month, a general crop
of cucumbers for pickling, and treat them in every respect, as di-
rected for like crops in May and June.

The long green Turkey cucumber is preferred by many for this
purpose, but it is not very prolific; the long, and short prickly, and
particularly the green cluster cucumber, being great bearers, will
be more profitable, and are equally good for use. Some of the early
frame or short prickly kinds, may be sown, in the middle or any
time in the month, for a late crop.

Planting Cabbages, Savoys, Borecole, Sfc.

Take advantage of moist or cloudy weather, and plant out your
late crops of cabbages, savoys, borecole, broccoli, turnep-cabbage,
Brussels' sprouts, Jerusalem kale, and any other of the cabbage
tribe, that you wish to cultivate: let them be planted as directed in
the former months, and, immediately, watered, which must be fre-
quently repeated till they are newly rooted, and in a free growing
state. The laying of a fresh cabbage leaf over each plant when
set, will afford protection from the sun, for a few days, which will
be of considerable service. Some seed of the green curled bore-
cole may now be sown for a late crop.

Transplanting and Sowing Endive.

Plant out to supply the table early in autumn, a sufficient quantity
of the best and stoutest endive; it requires a good, strong, and (at
this season) moist ground; if well dunged, it will be an additional
advantage. Put in the plants a foot asunder every way, and water
them immediately, which repeat every evening till the plants have
taken root.

Sow endive seed, in an open, cool, and moist situation, two or
three times this month, for the greater certainty of procuring a re-
gular supply; let it be of the curled kind, and sown tolerably thin,
for when the plants grow too close in the seed beds, they are more
subject to start soon to seed, than if they had been raised at mode-

July.] THE KITCHENGARDEN. 43 1

rate distances. Give occasional waterings to the seed-beds, both
before and after the plants appear, which will greatly encourage
their free growth.

Kidney -Beans.

You may plant kidney-beans, of the dwarf kinds, any time this
month; or, in order to have a regular succession, s6me may be
planted in the beginning, middle, and end thereof. The running
kinds will also succeed well, if planted in the early part of the month.
It will, however, be necessary at this time, to water the drills, or lay
the beans to soak in river or pond water, about five or six hours,
previous to planting, or if both be done, it will be still better.

Ccmlijioivers.

The late sown cauliflowers, intended for winter use, may now be
planted out finally, if not done before.

In planting this crop, it would be of essential advantage to take
opportunity of showery or moist weather, if such should happen in
proper time; plant them in rows, two feet and a half asunder; and
the same distance in the row; let them be directly watered, and
afterwards at times, till they have taken good root.

Small Sallading.

Continue to sow crops of small sallading every eight or ten days,
as directed in the former months; but these must now be sown on
shady borders, or else be shaded with mats, occasionally, from the
mid-day sun, and frequently watered, both before and after the
plants appear above ground.

Carrots.

Towards the end of this month you may sow some carrot seed,
to raise young roots for the table in autumn and winter. Choose an
open situation and light ground, and let the seed be sown, imme-
diately, while the earth is fresh after being dug. When the plants
are up an inch or two, thin them to five or six inches every way.

Celery.

This is a proper time to plant out into trenches a full crop of
celery, for autumn and winter use; let this be performed, in every
respect, as directed in page 406, which see. The red stalked celery
is extremely valuable, blanches very white, and is by most people,
who have had the opportunity of cultivating it, preferred to any
other.

The following method of planting out celery may also be prac-
tised, which for the ease of preserving the plants in winter will be
found extremely convenient; besides, a greater quantity can be
raised on the same complement of land. Lay out the ground

432 THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [Jult.

into four feet wide beds, with alleys between, of three feet; dig the
beds a spade deep, throwing the earth upon these alleys; when
done, lay four or five inches of good, iveli rotted hot-bed or other
dung, all over the bottom of the beds, dig and incorporate it with
the loose earth remaining, and cover the who e with an inch, or an
inch and a half, of the earth from the alleys; plant lour rows in
each bed at equal distances, and eight inches apart in the rows;
after which, give them a plentiful watering, and stick down small
branches of cedar, or of any kind of evergreen shrubs between the
rows, to shade them from the sun till well rooted, when the branches
are to be tuken away. The plants must be kept free from weeds,
tili grown of a sufficient size for earthing, which is done with the as-
sistance of boards, by laying them along the rows, tc support the
leaves while you are putting in the earth from the alleys, and re-
moving them as you progress in the business. For the method
of preserving the plants in winter, see the Kite heii-Gar den in Ab-
-jember.

Land or earth up your early crops of celery, first breaking the
earth fine with the spade, and then laying it up neatly, to both sides,
always preserving the fops and hearts of the plants free, that they
may continue in gronth without any interruption; repeat this earth-
ing, at intervals of eight or ten days, till the plants are sufficiently
blanched and of proper size for use. Sow a little niore seed in the
first week of the month, to answer for a late crop, if such should be
wanted.

Tnrneps.

Any time between the twentieth of this month and the middle of
August, a principal croj) of turneps may be sown for autumn and
winter use; but the earlier they are sown in that period, the larger
size will the roots attain to. It would be of much importance to take
advantage of moist weather for this purpose, should such happen
in due season.

As the cultivation of turneps upon an extensive scale, as well for
the feeding of cattle during the winter months, as for culinary pur-
poses, may and ought to become an interesting object to the citi-
zens of the United States, I deem it the more necessary to give
some information respecting the Jieid culture of that very valuable
root.

The turnep delights in a light, sandy loam; if a little moist the
better, especially in warm climates. Upon new or fresh ground
they are always sweeter, than on an old or worn out soil. Though
such is the kind of land best adapted to the raising of turneps, yet
they are cultivated upon every sort of soil in use as arable land.

Much of the sandy soil now laying waste in various parts of the
l!lnion, might, with the assistance of culture, and a small portion of
manure, be profitably employed in producing turneps; for such
ground, if dressed with a light coat of clay or loam, would yield
excellent crops of this vegetable.

The ground intended for ihe production of turneps in the en-
suing season, ought to be deeply ploughed, in October, or Novem^

July.] THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. 433

ber, and to be left in that rough state, to receive the benefits of the
winter frosts, &c. In the April following, when it is perfectly dry,
harrow it and let it lie so till the middle of May, when it should
have another deep ploughing across, or contrarywise to the form-
er; the first week in June harrow it, and towards the end of that
month, give the field a light coat of well rotted manure, and im-
mediately plough it in lightly; after which the soil and manure are
to be well incorporated, by harrowing the ground efiectually with a
weighty harrow.

Ah! says the farmer, this will never do, the crop will not be
worth the expense. — First, make one fair experiment, and I am con-
fident you will not give up the pursuit: you ought to take into con-
sideration, that after the turneps are off the ground, it will be in a
high state of preparation for several successive crops, of various
kinds, and that without this, or similar tillage, it may remain dur-
ing your life in an unproductive state.

There are four principal varieties of the turnep, which are culti-
vated in the field way. 1. The white Norfolk. 2. Tlie large pur-
ple topped. 3. The large green, and 4. The pudding? or tankard-
shaped turnep. The last is in shape so perfectly different from
the other sorts, that it might be ranked as a distinct species. In-
stead of spreading itself flat upon the ground, or burying itself
partially in the surface mould, it rises in a cylindrical form, eight,
ten, or twelve inches high; standing almost wholly out of the ground.
In either contexture or quality, it resembles very much the large
white Norfolk turnep; of which it is by much the most formidable
rival. Indeed for early sowing to be eaten off in autumn, this
long rooted kind seems to gain a preference, as being earlier and
more tender than any of the other sorts, but it will not keep as well
in winter.

The time of sowing depends much on the application; when
turneps are intended for early consumption, they may be sown soon
after the middle of this month; the' general mode, in the middle
states, is, to begin to sow about the twentieth of July, and to continue
sowing, as convenient, from this time to the middle of August, or
a few days after.

If a farmer could insure his first crop, I would not advise him to
sow till the last four days in this n\onch, or even to the ihird or fourth
day of August; but liable as the turnep crop is, to nunjcrous ac-
cidents and miscarriages, it is prudent to have a week or two in re*
serve for a second sowing, in case the first should fail.

The quantity of seed sown on an acre, by the great turnep far-
mers, is never less than one pound; more frequently a pound and a
half, and by some two. If every grain was to come to perfection a
quarter of a pound would be more than sufllicient, but having to en-
counter so many accidents, a pound is the least quantity that ought
to be sown on an acre.

The period in which you intend to sow, being arrived, plough your
prepared turnep ground once more, lightly; give it one or two
strokes of the harrow all over, and sow the seed immediately on
the fresh surface. The method of sowing is generally, by broad-

3 I

434 A'HE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [Jlly.

cast, with a high and even hand; but some sow it in rows by means
of a machine called a turne/t-drill, which method is greatly approved
of, particularly, as by it much labour is saved in hoeing and thin-
ning the plants.

In the former method the seed is covered by drawing a light har-
row backward, that is, wrong end foremost, to prevent the lines,
which are generally set somewhat pointed forward, from tearing up
the clods and burying the seed too deep.

One of the most important parts of the treatment, due to the
cultivation of the turnep, yet remains to be done; that is, to roll the
field with a heavy roller immediately after harrowing in the seed,
provided that the ground is sufficiently dry, or as soon after, as it is
in a fit condition. By this means all the clods are broken, and
much of the seed that would otherwise be exposed to birds, &c.
will be covered, the surface rendered smooth and compact
thereby, and consequently, more retentive of moisture, which will
greatly promote the vegetation of the seed and growth of the
plants.

But the all important point is, that the rolling of the ground is
experimentally found to be the most effectual method, hitherto dis-
covered, for the preservation of the rising crop from the destructive
depredations of the fly. The turnep fly, is always found most nu-
merous in rough worked ground, as there, they can retreat and take
shelter under the clods or lumps of earth, from such changes of
weather as are disagreeable to them, or from the attacks of small
birds and other animals.

Experiments have been tried, on coating the seed with sulphur,
soot, &c. and of steeping it in train oil and in solutions of various
kinds, as a security against the fly; but the result has not been such,
as to establish any practise of this nature.

Hoeing the plants, and setting them out, as it is called, comes next
under consideration; the method of doing this dexterously is dif-
ficult to describe, nothing but practice can teach it. A boy in the
turnep counties, by the time he is the height of the hoe begins to
make use of it, consequently, every man who has been bred there
to country business, is a turnep-hoer, yet not always, even with this
advantage, an expert one.

The operation, to be performed dexterously and well, requires a
quickness of eye and a dexterity of hand that every man is not
favoured with; while some men catch the proper plants to be
singled, and set them out, with a rapidity and neatness of execution,
very pleasing to the observer.

The hoe is generally drawn round the plant with a long sweep-
ing stroke, and when the plants are small, this is the only stroke
that can be used with propriety; but when they are grown out of
the danger of being buried, a short straight stroke is more expedi-
tious.

Upon the whole it matters not, which way the operation is per-
formed, provided the ground be stirred, the weeds eradicated, and
the plants set out singly and at proper distances.

JuLY.J THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. 435

The due distance is from seven to twelve inches every way; this
must be regulated according to the strength of the land, the time of
sowing, and the kind of turnep cultivated; strong ground and early
sowing, always producing the largest roots.

The width of the hoe, should be in proportion to the medium dis-
tance to be left between the plants, and this to their expected size.

The critical time of the first hoeing is, when the plants as they
lie spread upon the ground, are nearly the size of the palm of the
hand; if, however, seed weeds be numerous and luxuriant, they
ought to be checked before the turnep plants arrive at that size;
lest being drawn up tall and slender, they should acquire a weak
sickly habit.

A second hoeing should be given when the leaves are grown to
the height of eight or nine inches, in order to destroy weeds, loosen
the earth, and finally to regulate the plants; a third, if found neces-
sary, may be given at any subsequent period.

Here again, will the farmer exclaim against the expense and
trouble of hoeing; but let him try one acre in this way, and leave
another of the same quality to nature, as is too frequently done, and
he will find that the extra produce of the hoed acre, will more than
six times compensate for the labour bestowed.

In the Kitchen-Garden, the early Dutch, early stone, green top-
ped, red round, white round, and yellow turneps, are excellent kinds
to cultivate for table use, and full crops of them ought to be sown
between the twentieth of this month and the middle of August.

RufA Bag A, or Swedish Turnep.

This variety of Turnep is the most important of all, and deserves
to be ranked in ihe first class of vegetable productions. Its quantity
of produce, richness of flavor, and extreme hardiness, renders it of
great importance and gives it a preeminence over every other kind.
The best time for sowing is from the twentieth of June to the twen-
tieth of July, according to the season. The ground should be well
prepared and manure scattered pretty thickly over it; which done, it
should be laid off in ridges about three feet apart, two furrows to-
gether with the plough, and the seed sown on the top. By this me-
thod you have a double portion of the manure for each row of turneps
and a better opportunity of attending to their after culture. When
they are of sufficient growth thin them to the distance of twelve
inches apart in the row; they will continue growing and increasing
in size till late in autumn, when, if not used before, they may be tak-
en up and preserved through the winter, in like manner as other
turneps, (or permitted to remain in the ground) than which they are
more hardy, will keep better, and be as fresh in May as at Christmas,

The flesh of the root is yellow, sweet, and firm, being nearly twice
as heavy as a common turnep of the same size; when dressed for
the table, it is by most people preferred to the garden turnep, and as
well as the tops is peculiarly grateful to most sorts of cattle.

436 THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [July.

Lettuces.

Thin and transplant such lettuces as were sown last month, water
them immediately after, and repeat it as often as necessary till the
plants are well rooted.

Sow more lettuce seed in the beginning, middle, and particular-
ly in the last week of the month, in order to have a regular and
constant supply for the table. The white Silccia, brown Dutch,
India, Imperial, grand admiral, and Saxony cabbage lettuce, are all
very good kinds to sow at this time.

Spinach.

In the last week of this month, a good crop of spinach may be
sown for autumn use; it will not then, be so subject to run to seed
as in the former months. The round seeded kind, is always pre-
ferable, for summer and autumn service.

Radishes.

Radishes of every kind may be sown in the last week of this
month, with a good prospect of success, but particularly, the white
and black Spanish, or winter sorts; of which, you ought to sow a
full crop for autumn use.

Sow, likewise, some of the short-top, salmon, and turnep-rooted
radishes; should the season prove any way moist, they will suc-
ceed tolerably well. Let all these kinds be now sown, on moist
loamy ground.

Sow Cabbage Seed.

Sow some of the early York, Battersea, and sugar-loaf kinds of
cabbage, for a supply of young greens during the autumn; the
hearts of these are very delicious, when grown to a tolerable size,
and are, by many, very much admired; when used in that state,
they are called coleworts, having totally superseded the true cole-
wort, which was formerly cultivated for boiled sallads. Some savoy
seed may also be sown at this time for a late winter crop.

Artichokes.

If you desire to have large artichokes, you must in the first week
of this month, if not done in June, in order to encourage the main
head, cut off all the suckers or small heads which are produced from
the sides of the stems; and these may now be dressed for the table.

The maturity of a full grown artichoke, is apparent by the open-
ing of the scales; and it should always be cut off, before the flower
appears in the centre.

As soon as the head, or heads, are collected from any stem, let
it he immediately cut down close to the ground. This practice is
too often disregarded, but such neglect is utterly wrong; for the
stems, if permitted to remain, would greatly impoverish the roots,
and injure them much more than is generally imagined.

Where cardoons are in request, and that they were not planted
out last month, it should be done in the first week of this, as di-
rected in page 409.

July.] THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. 437

Collecting Seeds.

Collect all kinds of seeds that come to good maturity, cutting
off, or pulling up the stems with the seed thereon, as they ripen;
and spread them in some airy place where they can receive no wet,
in order that the seeds may dry and hai'den gradually; observing
to turn them now and then, and not to lay such a quantity toge-
ther, as might bring on a fermentation and hazard ihe loss of the
whole. When they are sufficiently dry, beat out and clean the
seeds, and put them by in boxes or bags till wanted.

Leeks.

You may still continue to transplant leeks, as directed in page
407; by this method, they will grow to a great size, and be much
better for use than if suffered to remain in the seed-beds.

Herbs.

Gather herbs for drying and distilling, as they come into flower,
and dry them in the shade.

Sage, hyssop, thyme, lavender, winter savory, and many other
kinds may still be propagated, by slips of the present year's growth,
giving them shade and occasional waterings till I'ooted. Plant
them two thirds of their length into the earth.

Gather chamomile, marigold, and such other flowers as may be
wanted and that are now in bloom: spread the floweis in the shade
till sufficiently dry, and then put them up in paper bags, &c.

Sowing Peas.

In the last week of the month, sow a crop of the early frame,
Charleston, or golden-hotspur peas. Water the drills and iet the
peas be soaked in soft water five or six hours previous to sowing.
Should the season prove moist, you will have a tolerable crop
from these, early in September.

Egg-Plant, Red-Peppers and Tomatoes.

In the first week of this month, if not done before, plant out
sufficient crops of egg plants, red-peppers and tomatoes, as directed
last tiionth; if the weather be unfavourable give them shade and
water till well taken with the ground; but on no account delay the
final planting of the egg-plants longer; the red-peppers may be
transplanted any time in the month, but the earher the better.

Ordinary Work.

Diligently destroy weeds, before they seed, in every part of
the ground, and immediately carry them away out of the garden.

Give water to such plants and crops as require it; but, let this be
done always in an evening, that it may have time to soak down to
the roots, before the sun appears to exhale it.

438 f HE FRUIT-GAR DfeN. [July.

Earth up your advancing crops of cabbages, and all other plants
of that tribe; likewise, okra, peas, kidney-beans, See. this will
greatly refresh them, and protect their roots and fibres from the
powerful heat of the sun.

Pull up the stalks of beans, cauliflowers, cabbages, and the haulm
of peas and other plants, which have done bearing, that the ground
may be clear; for if these are suffered to remain, they will har-
bour vermin to the injury of the adjoining crops.

THE FRUIT-GARDEN.

Wall and Espalier Trees.

In the beginning of this month, you must look carefully over
your wall and espalier trees, rubbing off all fore-right shoots, and
training in all such regular growths as are designed to remain,
close to the wall or espalier, at regular distances, and in their due
position. Never pull off any leaves, nor thin the branches, in or-
der to expose the fruit to the sun; as the sudden exposure would
be extremely injurious to them; by it, their skins would be har-
dened and contracted, and their growth greatly retarded. Though
I am not fond of using the knife too freely at this season, which is
a very common and pernicious practice, yet it will be proper to
cut out irregular and disorderly shoots; but this must be done ju-
diciously, and an abundant supply of young wood left for the winter
pruning, particularly on the peaches, nectarines, figs, apricots and
morella-cherries, which generally bear their fruit on the preceding
year's wood: the apricot bears on fiuiting-spurs likewise.

Pick off all punctured and decaying fruit, and give them to the
hogs; also, such as have fallen, in that state, from the trees; for
the worms that are in these fruit, which have been the cause of their
decline, will soon arrive at their fly or winged state, and attack the
remaining fruit.

Look carefully over the fruit-trees, which have been grafted
last spring, or budded in the former season, and suffer no shoots
from the stocks to remain, for these will rob the grafts of their
nourishment.

Budding or Inoculating.

Budding may be performed on some kinds of fruit-trees, about
the middle of this month, but as that subject is fully treated of,
in the Nursery department, 1 refer you thereto, for information.

Destroy Wasps, S^c.

Hang up glass phials, filled with honey or sugar water, in dif-
ferent parts among the wall, espalier, and standard fruit trees; in or-
der to destroy wasps, ants. See. which would otherwise infest and

July.] THE VINEYARD. 439

devour the choice fruit; by the sweetness of the water they are
tempted into the phials, and frequently drowned; but these should
be hung before the fruit begins to ripen, for then the insects would
be much sooner tempted to the water, than after having tasted the
fruit: where a sufficient number of glasses are placed in time, pro-
perly attended to, and the water occasionally renewed, very little
damage is done by those insects.

Clean the Borders, <§*c.

Hoe and clean the ground about your espalier and wall trees, for
if weeds arc permitted to grow at this season, they will rob the trees
of a great portion of their nourishment: cut off all suckers which
arise from the roots of the trees, as they are produced, for these are
I'obbers and would injure them much if suffered to remain.

THE ORCHARD.

Little remains to be done during this month in the Or-
chard, but to feast on its delicious productions: however, it will be
very proper, to pick and carry away all decayed and fallen fruit,
for the reasons assigned in the Fruit-Garden for this month. Should
any of the trees show canker, or much gum, you may now cut out
the decayed part, clean to the fresh wood, and give it a dressing of
the' medicated tar prescriped in page 47, giving this medication a
due consistence as there directed, to prevent its melting away by
the heat of the weather; or you may apply Mr. Forsyth's compo-
sition, for which see page 225.

Where it can be done without injury, it would be of use to turn
pigs into the orcharc^t this seaaon, to eat up the fallen, decayed
fruit, and, consequent^ to destroy the numerous brood of insects
contained therein.

THE VINEYARD.

In the middle states, the grapes are generally set or formed,
about the first week of this month; when all the loose hanging
shoots, are to be neatly tied up to the stakes, and the useless weak
growths, as well as the suckers arising from the rqots and lower
parts of the stems, cleared or cut away; but by no means divest

440 THE VINEYARD. [Julv

any of the branches of their leaves, as some unskilful persons too
often practise; for 'hese are absolutely necessary to the growth and
protection of the fruit: the small side shoots growing on the main
branches from the axillas of the leaves, should, if time permits, be
nipped off as they are produced, which will tend considerably to
strengthen the principal shoots.

When the vines are suffered, for some time, to hang loose and
trail about upon the ground, all their leaves grow upward; which,
on the shoots being afterwards bound in an upright position to the
stakes, are turned upside down; and until these leaves resume their
natural position, which they are commonly eight or ten days in ef-
fecting., the fruit is at a stand, and consequently, loses the advan-
tage of that length of time, in the principal season of its growth.

The ground should be kept constantly free from weeds, either by
means of the plough and harrow, or by hoe; for where there are
other plants suffered to grow, they not only rob the roots of the
vines of their nourishment, but also by perspiring, cause a damp in
the air, and prevent the sun and wind from exhaling and carrying
away the vapours arising from the earth, whereby the fruit would
be filled with crude nourishment and rendered of much less value
for making good wine, as well as unpalatable.

Towards the latter end of the month, the extremities of the fruit-
bearing shoots may be nipped off, to check the too great luxuriancy
of their growth, and to afford the bunches of grapes a greater por-
tion of nourishment; but this ought not to be done too close to the
fruit, as it would check the free ascent of the juices into those
branches, by depriving them of the means of discharging such a
portion thereof as is not convertible into wood or fruit: and more-
over, though the fruit might by this means, be swelled to a greater
size, it would be more replete with watery particles, and less with
that refined saccharine juice, so pleasing to the palate, and so neces-
sary for the making of good wine.

Such shoots as are intended to be cut down in the pruning season,
for next year's fruiting^ are by no means to be topped, but should
be suffered to grow at full length, taking care to keep them con-
stantly divested of any side-branches, which ought always to be
rubbed off as they appear. Were those to be topped at this season,
it would force out at an untimely period, many of the flower-buds
■which nature had designed for the ensuing year, and consequently,
at that time, render the vines barren and unproductive.

JuLv.] 44 j^

THE NURSERY.

Budding or Inoculating.

The budding or inoculating of cherries and plums, and ali
such other trees and shrubs as are subject to become bark-bound
in autumn, is generally commenced in the middle states about the
fifteenth of this month, earlier or later according to the season or
the quantity to be budded; these and others of the like nature
should now be attended to, as they seldom work freely after the
twenty-fifth of July. But this you may always easily know by try-
ing the buds, and when they readily part from the wood, and also
the bark of the stock rises or separates freely, then the work may
be done.

But let it be particularly remarked, that every kind of tree or
shrub that makes new autumn shoots, or that continues in a free
growth, or flow of sap, should be budded either in August, or before
the twentieth of September, according as each kind is early or late
in ripening its wood, that is, to bud each sort before it becomes
bark-bound; and likewise observe that all those kinds, which are
likely to become bark-bound early in autumn, ought to be budded
in this month, while the juices flow freely in the stocks and buds.

If trees or shrubs are inoculated in the early part of this month,
whose nature it is to take a second growth in autumn, the buds will
then start, and the shoots produced therefrom, not having a suffi-
cient length of season to ripen the wood, will either be destroyed
the ensuing winter, or so much injured as never to make good
trees: therefore, budding ought to be performed on the respective
kinds, at such periods as there will be no hazard of their growing
before the ensuing spring, when they will have the advantage of the
whole season for perfecting their wood, and of acquiring a sufficient
strength and texture before winter.

Apricots if worked on plum stocks, or on those of its own
kind, should be budded in this month, but if on peach or almond,
August will be a preferable period.

Pears may likewise be inoculated late in this month, but as to
peaches, nectarines, almonds, and apples, if done now, the insert-
ed buds would shoot in the course of the present season, and conse-
quently be of little value.

The stocks of cherries, plums and pears, that were budded last
summer, or grafted in spring, and that have miscarried, may now
be inoculated with the same kinds of fruit, for those will succeed,
either by grafting or budding.

Budding generally succeeds best when performed in cloudy wea-
ther, or in the morning or evening; for the great power of the
mid-day sun, is apt to dry and shrivel the cuttmgs and buds, and
preveiu the free union, that might be expected immediately to take
place in a favourable season; at all events, let the operation be per-

442 THE NURSERY. [July.

formed on the north side of the stocks, which will give the buds
every possible advantage of the sun.

In performing this work, it will be necessary to observe, that
where trees are intended for walls, or espaliers, the buds must be
inserted low in the stocks; that is, at the height of five or six inches
from the ground: but if intended for standards, the stocks may be
worked at the height of three, four, five, or even six feet; or, the
low inserted buds may be trained up on single stems, to a proper
height for standards, or half standards, and then be headed for the
production of lateral branches.

Where there are wall or espalier trees, that do not produce fruit
of approved kinds, such may be budded with any favourite sorts;
this may be performed, either upon strong shoots of the present
year, or on clean young bi'anches of two years' growth, or more;
several buds may be inserted in each tree in different parts, by
which means they will be furnished with a sufficiency of new wood,
of the desired kinds, and in two or three years they will bear abun-
dantly.

Should it be found necessary to immerse the cuttings from which
you take your buds in water, place therein only about an inch of
their lower ends; the upper parts will be more congenially refresh-
ed by that means, than if the cuttings were entirely covered; and
moreovei', the buds which are soaked for any considerable time in
water, will be so saturated with moisture, as to prevent their im-
bibing the more congenial sap of the stocks, so that they often
miscarry. For the proper stocks to work the various kinds upon
see page 250, &c.

When the stocks are from about half an inch, or a little less, to
an inch or more in diameter, in the places where the buds are to
be inserted, they are then of a proper size for working.

In order to perform the operation, you must be provided with a
neat sharp budding-knife, having a flat thin haft to open the bark of
the stock for the admission of the bud, and likewise, with a quan-
tity of new bass-strings, which is certainly the best of all bandages,
or if such cannot be obtained, some soft woollen yarn to tie round it
when inserted.

Observe that the head of the stock is not to be cut off, as in graft-
ing; that the bud is to be inserted into the side, and the head
suffered to remain until the spring following, when it is to be cut
off above the bud, as directed in page 259.

Methods of Budding, or Inoculating.

1. Having your cuttings, knife and bandages ready, fix upon a
smooth part on the side of the stock, at whatever height you intend
to bud it; with your knife, make a horizontal cut across the bark
of the stock quite through to the firm wood; then from the middle
of this cut, make a slit downwards perpendicularly, about an inch
and a half long, going also quite through to the wood, so that the
two cuts together may be in the form ofihe letter T; then with the
point of your knife raise the bark a little at the angles formed by

July.] THE NURSERY. 443

the two cuts, in order to make room for the flat part of the haft to
enter and raise the bark.

This done, proceed with all expedition, to take off a bud, having
immediately previous to the commencement, cut off all the leaves,
leaving about an inch of the footstalk to each bud, and holding the
cutting in one hand, with the thickest end outward; then enter the
knife about half an inch, or rather more, below a bud, cutting nearly
half way into the wood of the shoot, continuing it with one clean
slanting cut about as much more above the bud, so deep as to take
off part of the wood along with it, the whole from an inch and a
quarter to an inch and a half long; directly take out the woody part
remaining in the bud, which is easily done by placing the point of
the knife between the bark and wood, at either end, but the upper
is the more preferable, and with the assistance of the thumb, pull
off the wood from the bark, which ought, if in good condition, to
part freely; then quickly examine the inside, to see if the root of
the bud be left, and if there appears a small hole, the rudiment of
the young tree is gone with the wood, the bud is rendered useless,
and another must be prepared; but if there be no hole, the bud is
good; then place the footstalk or back part of the bud between your
lips, and with the flat haft of the knife, separate the bark from the
stock on each side of the perpendicular cut, clear to the wood, for
the admission of the bud, which, directly slip down close between
the wood and bark, till the whole is inserted to within the eighth of
an inch; let this part be cut through, into the first transverse inci-
sion made in the stock, and the bud will fall neatly into its pkice, then
draw the bud up gently so as to join the upper or cut end of it, to
the bark of the stock, where it will most generally first unite.

Let the parts be then bound with a ligature of bass, previously
immersed in water to render it pliable and tough, or in want of
this, with woollen yarn; beginning below the bottom of the perpen-
dicular slit, and proceeding upwards close round every part, except
over the eye or bud, which is to be carefully preserved, and con-
tinue it a little above the horizontal cut, not binding it too tight
but just sufiicient to keep the parts close, exclude the air, sun, and
wet, and thereby to promote the junction of the stock and bud;
finish by making the ligature fast.

2. Although it is universally recommended, by every author who
has written on the art of Gardening, to take the woody part out of
the bud, before its insertion into the stock, as above directed, I find
such practice by no means necessary; for if the bud be taken off
with a less portion of wood than in the former method, and imme-
diately inserted as above directed, it will succeed full as well, if not
better, and as to expedition, there is no comparison; certainly
double the number can be inserted, in the same period of time, by
this method, as by the former. It will be found particularly con-
venient for the budding of lemons and oranges, and may, also, be
practised at periods in which the first method would be totally un-
successful, that is, when the buds are not sufficiently ripe to exist
without the young wood, or too much so, for the bark to separate
freely. This method may be practised, when desired, ^t a much

444 1'HE NURSERY. [July.

earlier period than the former, and, also, as late in the season as
the bark of the stock will rise freely, for the admission of the bud.

In thiee weeks or a month after inoculation, you will see which
of them have taken, by their fresh and plump appearance, and at
that time you should loosen the bandages, for if kept on loo long
they would pinch the stocks and greatly injure, if not destroy, the
buds. Those that appear shrivelled, black, or decayed, are good
for nothing.

In this dormant state the buds should remain, till the March fol-
lowing, when the stocks are to be headed down, as directed in the
Mursery for that month.

J^ote. The cuttings should not be taken off the trees in the mid-
dle of the day, if the weather be hot and dry, for at such times they
will perspire so fast, as soon to leave the buds destitute of moisture;
but if you are obliged to fetch them from some distance, as it
often happens, you should be provided with a tin case, about
twelve inches long, and a cover to the top, which must have five or
six holes; in this case, you should put as much water as will fill it
about two inches high, and place your cuttings therein in an up-
right position, so that the parts which were cut from the tree may
be set in the water, and then fasten down the cover to keep out the
air; the holes in the cover will be sufficient to let the perspiration
of these branches pass off, which, if pent in, would be very hurtful
to them; you must also be careful to carry it upright, that the water
may not reach to the buds, which would so saturai:e them, as to de-
prive them of any attractive force to imbibe the sap of the stock.

Inoculate and Lay curious Trees and Shrubs.

Agreeable to the preceding directions and observations, inoculate
roses, jasmines, and such other kinds as you desire to propagate in
that way. The moss rose, may, in particular, be increased by this
means, as it is not very free in producing suckers: this may be
budded on stocks of any kinds of common roses, that have been
either raised from seed or suckers.

The proper stock to bud any of the more curious kinds of jas-
mines on, is that of the common white jasmine.

Continue, also, to propagate the various kinds of trees, and shrubs,
by layers and cuttings, as directed last month.

Ordinary Mtendance.

Weeding, shading, and watering, must now be particularly at-
tended to, as directed last month; without which, much injury-
will be sustained, especially by the seedlings, layers, and late trans-
planted trees and shrubs.

You should continue to train your evergreens, for the purposes
they are. designed; and when any of your forest-trees shoot too
vigorously near ihe roots, those branches may be pruned off to en-
courage their heads.

July.] 445

THE PLEASURE, OR FLOWER-GARDEN.

Bulbous and Tuberous Roots.

Take up the bulbs of such late flowers as were not suffi-
ciently ripe, nor their leaves decayed last month; as Ornithoga-
lums, bulbous Irises, Martagon, and other Lilies; iransplant the
roots of Frilillaries, Crown Lnperials, Dens Canis, and such other
bulbous and tuberous rooted flowers, as do not endure to be kept
long out of ground; and this being the season in which their roots
are not in action, is the most proper time for transplanting them,
before they put forth new fibres, after which, it would be very im-
proper to remove them.

Annual Flowers.

You may still transplant any of the late sown balsams, cock's-
combs, amarauthuses, China-asters, Ecc. into the borders or flower-
beds where wanted; taking them up with balls, or with as much
earth as possible about their roots, and giving them a good water-
ing when planted; which is to be occasionally repeated, till they
are well rooted; if some shade could be afforded them for a few
days, it would the better insure their success.

Carnations.

The choice carnations now in flower, should be taken care of and
assisted in their blowing, as directed last month; you may likewise
assist those of inferior qualities, and that have a tendency to burst,
by slitting the pod, or calyx, a little way at top, on the opposite side
to where it shows an inclination to burst, in two or three different
places, so as to promote the spreading of the flower regularly each
way. This should be done just as the flower begins to break the
pod, with a small pair of narrow pointed scissars, or with a sharp
pointed knife, taking care not to cut the calyx too deep, but rather
to open it a little at each place, and to leave as much of the bottom
of the cup entire, as will be sufficient to keep the petals or flower
leaves regularly together.

Some Florists take great pains in the opening of the flowers to
assist nature in spreading and displaying the petals, so as to enlarge
the circumference and dispose the flower-leaves in such a manner,
as to show the stripes and variegations to the best possible advan-
tage; and for this purpose make use of a small pair of wire nip-
pers, the points of which are flattened, and bound round with silk or
thread to prevent injury. With these they extract such of the
petals as do not please, and display the others, so as to suit their
fancy.

446 '^'HE PLEASURE, OR [July.

Continue to propagate your choice carnations and pinks, by layers
and pipings, as directed in page 421; for the performance of which,
the early part of this month is a very principal time. Give the
necessary shade and water to the plants now in flower, and see that
those layers which were laid last month are kept sufficiently moist,
to promote their free rooting.

When the layers are properly rooted, which will be the case with
most sorts in a month after laying, provided due care be taken to
keep them resrularly moist, and to shade them from the heat of the
meridian sun; they are then to be taken off from the old plant,
with about half an inch of the stalk which connects them to it, and
be immediately planted in small pots, one, two, three or four in
each. The pots should be filled with the compost recommended in
page 295, previously adding thereto, a little more loam and coarse
sand, and when the plants are neatly planted therein, the pots
should be buriecj^to their rims in a convenient airy place, and arches
of hoops placed over the bed, on which to lay mats to shade the
plants from the sun, till well rooted and growing freely; and these
mats are to be afterwards laid on occasionally as necessity may re-
quire, to protect the plants from too powerful sunshine or heavy
torrents of rain, which are both injurious to them.

Here they are to remain till November, when they must be re-
moved into their winter repository, as then directed; during this
time, they must have a sufficiency of water as often as it may ap-
pear necessary, to keep them in a constant growing state and good
health.

The layers of the common kinds of carnations, should when tak-
en off, be planted in beds of rich earth, in rows about six inches
asunder; where they are to be watered and shaded until well taken
with the ground and growing. They may remain in these beds
till September, October, or March, and are then to be taken up with
balls of earth, and planted where intended to flower.

Pinks.

The most valuable kinds of pinks should be treated in every re-
spect as directed for carnations.

Sensitive Plant.

The Sensitive plants which have been raised in hot-beds, may
about the first of this month, if not done in June, be brought out
into the open air, and placed in a very warm situation, for they de-
light in much heat; but some ought to be kept constantly under
glasses, for when fully exposed to the weather, they lose much of
their sensibility.

The species I particularly allude to, is the Mimosa /ludica, or
humble and sensitive plant, which is thus characterized in the
flowing poetry of Darwin:

" Weak with nice sense the chaste Mimosa stands.
From each rude touch withdraws her tender bands;

July.] FLOWER-GARDEN. 447

Oft as light clouds o'erspread the summer glade,
Alarm'd she trembles at the moving shade;
And feels, alive through all her tender form,
The whisper'd murmurs of the gath'ring storm;
Shuts her sweet eye-lids to approaching night;
And hails with freshen'd charms the rising light."

« Naturalists," says Dr. Darwin, " have not explained the inm-
inediate cause of the collapsing of the Sensitive plant; the leaves
meet and close in the night during the sleep of the plant, or when
exposed to much cold in the day time, in the same manner as when
they are affected by external violence, folding their upper surfaces
together, and in part over each other like scales or tiles; so as to
expose as little of the upper surface as may be to the air; but do
not indeed collapse quite so far: for when touched in the night
during their sleep, they fall still farther; especially when touched
on the foot-stalks between the stems and the leaflets, which seems
to be their most sensitive or irritable part. Now as their situation
after being exposed to external violence resembles their sleep, but
with a greater degree of collapse, may it not be owing to a numb-
ness or paralysis consequent to too violent irritation, like the fainting
of animals from pain or fatigue? A Sensitive plant being kept;^in a
dark room till some hours after day break, its leaves and leaf-stalks
•were collapsed as in its most profound sleep, and on exposing it to
the light, above twenty minutes passed, before the plant was tho-
roughly awake, and had quite expanded itself. During the night,
the upper or smoother surfaces of the leaves are appressed toge-
ther; this would seem to show that the office of this surface of the
leaf was to expose the fluids of the plant to the light as well as to
the air."

The sensibility of this plant is worthy of admiration, that not
only in the evening, or towards night, but at all hours of the day,
with the least touch, or concussion of air, the leaves just like a tree
a dying, droop and complicate themselves immediately, and pres-
ently after recover, resuming their former position; so that a per-
son would be induced to think they were really endowed with the
sense of feeling.

The cause of this, seemed so hard to be discovered, that a cu-
rious Malabarian philosopher, upon his observing the nature of this
plant, without being able to discover the cause of its sensibility,
ran mad; just as Aristotle is said to have flung himself headlong in-
to the sea, because he could not comprehend the reason of its
ebbing and flowing.

These plants are more or less susceptible of the touch according
to the warmth of the air in which they grow, being always more
irritable in proportion to the heat thereof.

The light is not the only cause of their expansion, nor the dark-
ness of their contraction, for they are often closed in the afternoon
two or three hours before the sun descends the horizon; and if the
frames in which they are kept, be, in the fore part of the day, co-
vered for hours, so as to render the place completely dark, yet the
leaves will continue their expansion.

448 'f liE PLEASURE, OR [July.

Those plants which are placed in the greatest warmth in winter,
continue vigorous and retain their faculty of contracting on being
touched; but those that are in a moderate warmth have little or no
motion.

There are 84 species of Mi7nosa described; 2, with simple
leaves; 6, with leaves simply pinnate; 3, with bigeminate or ter-
geminate leaves; 9, with leaves conjugate, and at the same time
pinnate; and 64, with doubly-pinnate leaves; several of the species
are more or less sensitive, but the far greater number not at all,

FewMs's Fly-trap.

The Dionaa Muscifiula, or Venus's fly-trap, is one of the most
extraordinary productions of nature: in this plant there is an aston-
ishing contrivance, to prevent the depredations of insects: the
leaves are numerous, generally bending downwards, or rather
spreading upon the surface of the earth, and placed in a circular
order; each leaf is divided, as it were, into two joints, the lower,
flat, longish, two edged, and inclining to heart-shaped; some con-
sider this lower joint a winged petiole, similar to that on an orange
leaf. The upper joint consists of two lobes, each semi-oval, the
margins furnished with stiff hairs like the eye lashes, locking into
each other when the lobes close, like the teeth of a rat-trap, to
which the lobes, marginal hairs," and the manner of their closing,
bear a particular resemblance. The interior of the lobes is very
irritable, but more particularly so in warm weather, when if an unfor-
tunate fly, or any other small animal happens to creep on it, the lobes
immediately fold up and confine it: the greater efforts the creature
makes to disengage itself, the more it irritates the interior parts,
and consequently, is the more firmly secured: here it remains till
crushed or starved to death; when, the irritation having ceased,
the lobes open as before, and the remains of the insect is either
washed out by the rain, or carried away by the wind. The lobes will,
also, close if the interior be touched with a straw, &c.

This plant is a native of the Carolinas where it grows in swamps:
it produces in July and August, bunches of handsome white flow-
ers, on stems of from six to eight inches high, and in the eastern
and middle states must be treated as a hardy green-house plant.

It is propagated both by seeds and suckers, requires a swampy
soil, with a mixture of fine sand, and must be kept well watered and
in the shade during the summer months. This is a very proper
period to take off, and plant the suckers: the seed should be sown
early in spring, forwarded in a hot-bed, and, during the summer
months, the seedlings ought to be carefully protected from the
mid-day sun.

The Tutsan-leaved JDogsbane.

The jlfiocynum anclrosoemifolhan, or Tutsan-leaved Dogsbane^
is not only intercstini^; on account of its beauty and fragrance, but
also on account of the curious structure of its flowers, and their
singular method and property of catching flies.

July.] FLOWER-GARDEN. 449

It is a hardy perennial, indigenous in various parts of the United
States, grows in a wild uncultivated state in the neighbourhood of
Philadelphia, and usually to the height of from two and a half to
three feet; flowering from the beginning of July to September; it
has a creeping root, whereby it increases greatly in light dry soils,
and warm situations, so as even to be troublesome; it will not thrive
in wet soil. It is propagated by sowing the seeds in spring, which
with us, it produces abundantly, or by parting its roots in March or
October.

The flowers of this plant have a sweet honey-like fragrance which
perfumes the air; and no doubt operates powerfully in attracting
insects; when a plant of this sort is fully blown, one may always
find flies caught in its blossoms, usually by the trunk, very rarely
by the leg, sometimes four or even five, which is the greatest pos-
sible number, are found in one flower, some dead, others endeavour-
ing to distenangle themselves, in which they are now and then so
fortunate as to succeed.

Previous to explaining the manner in which it appears that these
flies are caught, it will be necessary to describe those parts of the
flower which more particularly constitutes this fatal fly-trap.

On looking into the flower there are perceivable five Stamina, the
Antherae of which are large, of a yellow colour, and converge into a
kind of cone; each of these Antherae is arrow-shaped; towards the
top of the cone their sides touch but do not adhere, below they se-
parate a little, so as to leave a very narrow opening or slit between
each; they are placed on very short filaments, which stand so far
apart that a considerable opening is left between them; at the bot-
tom of, and in the very centre of the flower, there are perceivable
two germina, or seed-buds, the rudiments of future seed-vessels,
surrounded by glandular substances, secreting a sweet liquid; on
the summit of these germina, and betwixt the two, stands the stig-
ma, in the form of a little urn, the middle of which is encircled by
a glandular ring, which secrets a viscid honey-like substance; to
this part of the stigma the Antherae interiorly adhere most tenaci-
ously, so as to prevent their separation unless considerable force be
applied: it is probable, that the sweet viscid substance, thus secret-
ed by the stigma, within the Antherse, is that which the fly endea-
vours to obtain; and to this end insinuates its trunk, first into the
lowermost and widest part of the slit, betwixt two of the Antherae
above described, pushing it of necessity upwards: when gratified,
not having the sense to place itself in the same position as that in
which it stood when it inserted its trunk, and draw it out in the
same direction downwards, unfortunately for it, it varies its posi-
tion, and pulling its trunk upwards, draws it into the narrow part
of the slit, where it becomes closely wedged in, and the more it
pulls the more securely is it caught, and thus this heedless insect,
as Thomson calls it, terniinaies its existence in captivity most
miserable.

Mr. H. W. Darwin, of Elston, in England, asserts that, " when
a fly inserts its proboscis between these anthers to plunder the ho-
ney, they converge closer, and with such violence as to detain the

3L

450 THE PLEASURE-GARDEN. [July.

fly." Mr. Curtis, author of the Flora Londinensis^ &c. is of opi-
nion, that the anthers do not converge, but that the flies are caught
in the manner first described. This difference of opinion between
two respectable authorities, may afford curious observers the oppor-
tunity of spending some leisure hours, in ascertaining, to a certainty,
which is right.

Transplantiiig biennial andperemnial Floivering Plants.

If not done in June, you should now transplant from the seed-
beds, the various kinds of perennial and biennial seedling flowering-
plants, as directed in page 424.

Auriculas and Polyanthuses.

Examine your auriculas and polyanthuses; when dead leaves at
at any time appear upon the plants, let them be immediately pick-
ed off", and suff'er no weeds to grow in the pots.

Preserve those plants carefully from the mid-day-sun, -which at
this season would destroy them, particularly the auriculas, and keep
the earth in the pots always moderately moist.

When any of them have furnished strong offsets, such may be
taken off", in the last week of this month, and planted in small pots;
for, about that time, these plants begin to grow afresh, and advan-
tage ought to be taken of that critical period. The ofl'sets will
require shade and water till newly rooted: the latter must be
sparingly administered till the plants take and are in a growing
state; before which too much water would cause the roots to rot;
but, notwithstanding, the earth must still be kept a little moist.

The auricula and polyanthus seedlings that were sown last au-
tumn or early in spring, if having grown well, and of sufficient
size, should in the last week of this, or first in August, be trans-
planted into boxes or pots, as directed in page 348, and placed in
the shade to grow on till the middle of October, when they may be
rather more exposed to the sun, and early in November remove
the pots or boxes into a warm situation, to remain, till taken into
their winter quarters.

Grass and Gravel Walks.

The same care and attention must now be paid to the grass and
gravel-walks, and lawns, as directed in the preceding months.

Box Edgings.

Such box edgings as were not clipped in June, should now be
dressed, observing the same directions in every particular as given
in page 425.

Clip Hedges.

Hedges in general, of every kind, should be clipped in the early
part of this month; for that purpose, advantage ought to be taken

July.] THE GREEN-HOUSE. 451

of moist or cloudy weather to do the work in; as hedges always
look better after being clipped in wet weather, than in dry.

Another dressing of the same kind towards the latter end of Sep-
tember, will keep them in a neat condition the year round.

Ordinary Mtendance.

The principal flower-borders, beds, &c. must now have more
than ordinary attention paid to the keeping of them clean, as well
as the shrubbery-clumps and other similar compartments. Where
any of the flowering-shrubs or evergreens, have grown rude or dis-
orderly, let such be trimmed or pruned into neat form; that is, if
any have produced strong and rambling shoots, cut out, shorten, or
reduce them to a pleasing regularity.

Stake and tie up the stems of such flowering plants, as stand in
need of support, to prevent their being borne down by winds or
heavy rains, &c.

Cut down the stems of such fibrous rooted plants as are past
bloom, except a few of the best, where the seeds are wanted: Those
have always an unpleasing appearance, and ought to be removed as
soon as possible; by which means the plants, though past flowering,
will appear more lively and decent, and the advancing bloom of
others, will show to greater advantage.

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

Orange, lemon, citron, and shaddock trees, on which there
are now set a superabundance of young fruit, should have them
thinned to a reasonable number on each, in proportion to its strength;
after which they may be divested of all flowers subsequently pro-
duced, especially when wanted for domestic purposes, such as to
make orange-flower water, &c.

It would be of considerable utility to those trees, to have the earth
in the top of the tubs or pots now taken out, for two or three inches
deep, and replaced with fresh compost; this would greatly encourage
their autumn growth.

Propagating the Plants.

Still continue to propagate the various kinds of Green-house
plants which you wish to increase, by cuttings, layers, suckers,
&c. as directed in the preceding months; most kinds will yet suc-
ceed by cuttings of the present year's wood, if carefully planted,

453 THE GREEN-HOUSE. [Jult.

duly shaded, and moderately watered; such as Xeranthetnums, Salivi-
as, Geraniums, Pelargoniums,andErodiums, Hermannias, Phlomises,
Ericas. Cineraria lanata, Camellia japonica and Acubajaponica, Coty-
ledon orbiculata, Ononis natrix, Polygalabracteolata, Lavendulas, An-
thyliises, Proteas, Sec. 8cc. these kinds, with many others, will now take
freely, in suitable earth, without the assistance of a hot-bed. Let
the cuttings be taken from healthy plants; they should be from four
to eight inches in length, and of a stout and robust growth. The
leaves should be stripped oft" more than halfway up, and the cut-
tings planted about two thirds of their length into pots, garden-
pans, or beds of earth, adopting for each kind its favourite soil; then
give shade and water, as directed on former occasions.

The Lricas, Anfhyllises, and other kinds that do not root freely
in this way, should have bell-glasses placed over them, which will
greatly facilitate their rooting.

Continue to propagate ihe various kinds of succulent plants, be-
longing to this department, as directed in page 403.

Transplanting Seedlings and Cuttings.

Such seedlings of Green-house plants, as were raised from the
spring sowings, and that are now three inches high, or more,
should be transplanted into small pots separately, or several into
large pots, and immediately watered; they must be kept duly shad-
ed, till well taken with tlie earth, and in a growing state; and even
then, it will be proper to place them where they can avoid the mid-
day sun, for the remainder of the season.

Many of the cuttings planted in spring, will be well rooted by
this time, and may now be taken up with as much earth as possible
about their roots, planted separately in suitable sized pots, and
shaded for eight or ten days from the mid-day sun; always observ-
ing to keep the earth in the pots moderately moist. The gerani-
ums in particular, may be taken up, when too thick, and irans-
planied, at any time after the cuttings have grown four or five
inches.

Shifting into larger pots.

You may now shift such of your plants, as require larger pots or
tubs; this is the best of the summer months for that purpose, as
the greater number will have made their summer progress, and are
now rather at a stand, previous to the commencement of their
new autumnal vegetation.

The operation of shifting, is to be performed in every respect as
directed in page 361.

Such plants as are now shifted, must be immediately watered
and removed into the shade, where they can have free air and
protection from the sun in the heat of the day; there to remain for
two, three, or four weeks, according to the time the respective
kinds may take to re-establish themselves, and get into a fresh
state of growth, when they may be replaced among the general
collection.

July.] THE HOT-HOUSE, 453

Loosening and giving fresh earth.

It will be very proper at this lime to examine the pots and tubs
in general; and where the earth is inclinable to bind, let the surface
be carefully loosened to a little depth, breaking the earth small with
the hands, and at the same time add thereto, if not done in any of
the pi'eceding months, some fresh compost; then level the surface
ncr.tly.

This dressing will do the plants more good than many people
might imagine; but in particular to such as are in small pots.

Gathering and sowing seeds.

Collect all the different sorts of seeds as they ripen; spread them
upon paper in a dry shady place; and when sufficiently hardened,
let them be carefully preserved in their pods or husks, or in paper
bags, till the proper season for sowing them.

The seeds of Geraniums, Xeranthemums, and of any other
quick growing kinds of Green-house plants, may now be sown, and
if properly attended to, will attain to a neat size before winter.

THE HOT-HOUSE.

Pine-Apples.

The Pine-apples being now arriving at maturity, it may not
be unacceptable, to give some account of the different varieties.

Of the Bromelia there have been nine distinct species described,
viz. the B. Ananas. B. Pinguin. B. Karatas. 13. lingulata. B.
humilis. B. Acanga. B. bracteata. B. nudicaulis, and the B.
paniculigera. But as the first species is the only one cultivated on
account of its fruit, I shall confine myself exclusively to it, at least
for the present.

From the Broinelia Jnanas, or Pine-apple, as it is called, on ac-
count of the resemblance of the shape of its fruit to the cones of
some species of pine-tree, particularly to that of the Phius pinea,
or stone-pine, there arise six principal varieties, which have been
cultivated for their fruit, Sec. 1. The variety ovata, or Queen-pme,
2. The pyramidalis, or Sugar-loaf Pine. 3. The iucic/a, or King-
Pine. 4. The glabra, or Smootli Pine. 5. The serocina, or Late
Pine; and 6. The viridis, or Green Pine.

The Queen Pine, is the most commonly cultivated, but seems
daily to decrease in esteem. Its flesh is of a fine yellow co.our,
but in the hot summer months it is very apt not to cut firm; is lia-
ble to crack in the middle, and often contains an insipid watej-y juice;

454 THE HOT-HOUSE. [July.

but when it ripens late in the season it is not so subject to any of
these defects.

The Sugar-loaf pine is easily distinguished from all the others,
by its leaves having purple stripes on their inside the whole length.
The fruit is paler when ripe than the former, inclining to a straw-
colour. This was brought from Brazil to Jamaica, where it is es-
teemed far beyond any other kind. But of this there are three va-
rieties. 1. The brown-leaved. 2. The green-leaved, with purple
stripes and spines on the edges. 3. The green-leaved, with pur-
ple stripes and smooth edges. The fruit of these is of exquisite
flavour, filled with a lively delicious juice, and the flesh of a yellow
colour.

The King Pine, has grass-green, smooth leaves, and produces a
pretty large fruit; but as its flesh is hard, stringy, and sometimes
not well flavoured, it is not much cultivated.

The Smooth Pine, is preserved by some persons for sake of va-
riety, but the fruit is of little value.

The late Pine, is not of much importance for cultivating, on
account of its ripening at an untimely season, and therefore its des-
cription is considered unnecessary.

The Green Pine, is considered tolerably good. The fruit, if suf-
fered to ripen well, is of an olive colour; to have it green, it
must be cut before it is ripe, and suffered to lie by, till fit for use.
Plants of this kind may be procured from Barbadoes, and Montser-
rat; but the fruit of the Sugar-loaf is much to be preferred to it,
and indeed to any other kind yet introduced.

There is, likewise, the Surinam, or Silver-striped Pine, which
exceeds in beauty the whole tribe of variegated plants. The leaves
are variously striped with a dark green and delicate white; and
the whole is tinged with a lively red, which produces a contrast
that gives the plant a gay and most beautiful appearance. Nor is
there less beauty in its fruit, the protuberances of which swell
large, and, when ripe, are variously marbled with red, green, yellow,
and white; which, together with the variegated crown on the top
of the fruit, add a singularity and elegance to the whole, beyond
the power of description. The fruit is tolerably good, and therefore,
the plant is doubly worthy of cultivation.

Many other varieties of this fruit have arisen from seed, such as
the Black or brown Antigue, or Ripley Pine, which is a very good
fruit. The Granada Pine with marbled leaves and very large fruit.
The Bog-warp Pine, with broad green leaves. The Smooth, long,
narrow leaved Pine, and the Surinam Pine with gold-striped leaves;
and some assert, that there are varieties with red-fleshed fruit.

Compost proper for Pine Plants.

You should, in the first place, twelve months previous to the time
of its being wanted for use, pare off the sward or turf of a pasture,
not more than two inches deep, where the soil is a strong, rich
loam, and carry it to some convenient place to be piled together
for rotting; observing to turn it over once a month at least, spread-

July.] THE HOT-HOUSE. 455

ing it so as to expose a considerable surface to the summer sun, as
well as to the frosts in winter: but in wet weather it will be proper
to gather it up into a high ridge, to prevent its rich juices being
dissolved and carried away by water. If a quantity of sheeps dung
could be collected fresh and mixed therewith, in the first instance,
it would greatly improve it.

1. Having the above prepared, and made fine with the spade, but
not screened; to three barrow fulls of it, add one of vegetable
mould of decayed Oak-leaves, and half a barrow full of coarse sand,
observing, however, that if the soil from which the turf had been
taken, inclined any way to sand, that should be now omitted. This
makes a proper compost for Crowns, Suckers, and Young Plants.

2. To make a compost for Fruiting Plants, use three barrows of
the above reduced sward, two of the vegetable mould, one of coarse
sand, and one fourth of a barrow of soot.

The above compost, should be made some months before want-
ed; and very frequently turned during that time, that the different
mixtures may get well and uniformly incorporated. As to the
quantity of sand to be added, you must be governed by the nature
of the soil from whence the turf was taken; for too great a portion
of sand would be injurious, and subject many of the young plants
to go into fruit before the proper period.

Where oak-leaves are not used in Hot-houses, or for hot-beds,
&c. the vegetable mould may be made by laying a quantity of
them together, as soon as they fall from the trees, in a heap suffi-
ciently large to ferment. They should be covered at first, for
some time, to prevent the upper leaves from being blown away;
the heap must afterwards be frequently turned, and kept clean from
weeds; the leaves will be two years before they are sufficiently re-
duced to be fit for use.

Keep the different heaps of compost at all times free from weeds,
turn them frequently, and round them up in rainy seasons; but they
should be spread out in continued frosts, and in fine weather.

Raising the Pines by Crowns.

The crown is perfected at the time when the Pine-apple is quite
yellow; therefore the crowns of such fruit, may be planted in two
or three days after being taken off: but if the fruit be cut green, as
is practised by some persons with the Queen-pine; or if only the
top of the fruit be green when cut, as is the case frequently with
the sugar-loaf kinds, even when the principal part is thoroughly
ripened, then it will be necessary to let the crowns of such fruit lie
five, six, or seven days after they are taken off, in a shady part of
the Hot-house, in order that the wounds should dry, and particularly
to give them that degree of maturity to which nature was not allowed
to conduct them.

The crowns may then be planted in small pots and plunged into
the tan-pit, where they will soon strike root, and get into a growing
state. But before the crowns are planted, their lower or bottom
leaves should be cut off close with a knife or pair of scissars, which

456 I'HE HOT-HOUSE. [Jult.

will cause them to decay much sooner, and make room for the
roots to be produced with the greater ease.

The crowns will require but very little water, till they have taken
root, and are in a growing state; when it may be administered
more freely, but always with a sparing hand.

Raising the Pine by Suckers.

As the fruit of the Pine-apple is the principal object, and sole
reward of the great expense attendant on its management, few per-
sons choose to permit the suckers to remain on the plants till they
grow very large; as they would injure the fruit, and prevent its
swelling; they are, therefore, generally stopped in growth, or
taken off, as soon as it can be done with safety; but when a stock
of plants is the object, the additional advantage which might be
gained in the fruit is given up, or at least of as many as will pro-
duce the number of suckers required, in order to encourage iheir
growth, and are permitted to remain on the old slocks, or plants,
even for some time after the fruit is cut. In this situation the
suckers will grow very large; provided the stools are plentifully
supplied with water.

The suckers should not be taken from the plants, till they are
grown to the length of about twelve inches, when their bottoms
will be hard, woody, and full of round knobs, which are the rudi-
ments of the roots.

In taking off each sucker, remove it two or three times backward
and forward, in a side way direction, and it will come out with its
bottom entire, which should be cut smooth and deprived of any rag-
gedness.

Place these in a shady part of the Hot-house, for two or three
days, and then plant them in small sized pots, just so deep as to
keep them fast in the earth; after which they are to be treated as
directed for the crowns. The proper size of the pots to plant full-
grown crowns and suckers in, is six inches diameter in top, and five
and a half deep.

Care of the Fruiting Pines.

The Fruiting-Pines must now have abundance of air, which adds
much to the flavour of the fruit; but though the heat of the day
at this season, is very intense, yet, when north westerly winds
prevail, the night sometimes happens, though not frequently, to be
rather cold for the fruiting-plants; in which case, it may be prudent
to close the lights at night, taking care to slide them open early
in the morning; this, however must be governed by circumstan-
ces, and l)y the heat of the bark-pit, which if any way brisk, will
render it the more necessary to give plenty of air at all times.

As the Pine-apples come to maturity, care should be taken to
cut them off when in due perfection, and before they become too
ripe; generally cutting them in a morning, each, with several
inches of the stalk, and Avith the crown of leaves at top, till served
to the table.

JuLV.] THE HOT^HOUSE. 457

When the fruit is eaien, it will be proper to preserve the crowns,
and any young suckers growing round at the base;* particularly if
wanted for increase.

Shifting the Succession Pines.

The Pine plants which are to fruit in the ensuing season, should
be shifted, either in the last week of this month, or the first in Au-
gust, into full sized pots, of about eleven or twelve inches dia-
meter at top, and ten deep; by doing this so early in the year,
they will have time to make good roots before spring; for otherwise
they seldom produce very large fruit.

Having the pots and new compost ready, take the plants out of
the bark-bed, and shift them in the following method.

First, place a shell in the bottom of the new pot, and put in two
inches deep of fresh compost: then turn the plant out of the old
pot with the ball entire, and place it immediately into the new;
fill up round the ball with more of the compost, and let the top
thereof be covered with it an inch deep.

In this manner, let the whole be shifted, and immediately watered;
then plunge them again into the bark-bed.

Previous to plunging the pots, the bark-bed must first be stirred
up to the bottom, to revive the declining heat; observing, at the
same time to add about one third, or at least one fourth, of new tan
thereto, if the old is much wasted, become earthy, or not likely to
produce a sufiicient degree of bottom heat, to promote the fresh
rooting and growth of the plants.

Care of the various Hot-House Plants.

The general care and propagation of the various exotics of the
Hot-house department, are the same now, as directed in May and
June, and therefore unnecessary to be repeated; but it would be
very proper, at this time, to refresh the earth in the top of the pots
or tubs, as directed in page 453, and also to shift such of the plants
as require it. The Hibiscus Rosa Sinensis, Vinca rosea, Plume-
ria rubra, Allamanda cathartica, Asclepias curassavica, Lantanas,
Begonias, &.c. may now be easily propagated by cuttings; and
where an increase of the various kinds is wanted, that business
ought not to be delayed to a later period, that the cuttings may have
time to become well rooted before winter; nor should you despair
of being able to propagate any kind of tree or shrub by cuttings;
for, with due care, there are few but may be increased that way,
especially, with the assistance of bell-glasses, and a suitable bottom
heat.

* The Brown Antigua, the King, and the Sugar-loaf kinds, commonly pro-
duce suckers at the top of the stem, immediately under the fruit; but these
are generally small, and of much less value, than those produced about the
surface of the earth.

3 M

458 J^f^E HOT-HOUSE. [July.

21ie Moving Plants or Sensitive Hedysanim.

The Iledysarum ffyrans, or Moving plant, that extraordinary
phenomenon of the Hot-house department, is peculiarly worthy
the attention of every curious observer. Mr. Aiton in his Hor-
tus Kewensis, describes it as a biennial plant, and Swartz, as an
annual; but it has survived several years in that inestimable collec-
lection, the property of Wm. Hamilton, Esq. of the JVoodiands, near
Philadelphia, w^hose variety of rare plants surpass, by far, any other
on this side the Atlantic, and perhaps any private collection in
Europe.

The singular motion with which the lateral leaflets or appendicles
of this plant are endued, is thus described in Linnaeus's supple-
ment.

" This is a wonderful plant on account of its voluntary motion,
which is not occasioned by any touch, irritation, or movement in
the air, as in the Mimosa, Oxalis, and Dionaea; nor is it so evanes-
cent as in Amorpha. No sooner had the plants raised from seed,
acquired their ternate leaves, than they begun to be in motion this
way and that; this movement did not cease during the whole
course of their vegetation, nor were they observant of any time,
order or direction; one leaflet frequently revolved, v/hilst the other on
the same petiole was quiescent; sometimes a few leaflets only were
in motion, then almost all of them would be in movement at once:
the whole plant was very seldom agitated, and that only during the
first year. It continued to move in the stove during the second year
of its growth, and was not at rest even in winter."

It is difficult to account for this motion, which does not seem to
depend on any external cause, and which we are not able to excite by
any art. It is not the action of the sun's rays, for this plant is fond
of shade, and the leaves revolve on rainy days, as well as during
the night: exposed to too much wind or sun, it is quiet. " Per-
haps," says Linnaeus, " there may be some part in vegetables, as
in animals, where the cause of motion resides."

This plant is a native of Bengal, near the Ganges; and is call-
ed there Chimdali Borrun. It grows luxuriantly in the gardens in
Jamaica; and is easily propagated by sowing the seed in March,
and forwarding it in a due temperature of heat.

Dr. Darwin says, " Its leaves are continually in spontaneous
motion; some rising and others falling, and others whirling circu-
larly by twisting their stems; this spontaneous movement of the
leaves, when the air is quite still and very warm, seems to be ne-
cessary to the plant, as perpetual respiration is to animal life."

459
AUGUST.

WORK TO BE DONE IN THE KITCHEN-GARDEN.

Savoys, Coleworts, and Borecole.

IN the first week of this month, finish planting your savoys;
ihey will not, at this season, require a greater distance than two
feet every way. This plantation will be tolerably well cabbaged in
November, and may, with a little care, be preserved in fine condition
all winter.

The early York, Battersea and sugar-loaf plants, arising from
?eed sown last month, should now be planted out for autumn cole-
worts, they will yet form nice heads; and some more, of the same
kinds, should be sown in the first week of this month, from which
you will have delicious hearts late in October, &c. In the southern
states, where the plants can stand out all winter, this will be a very
useful practice. Plant also, your last crop of borecole.

Sjnnach.

Now prepare some ground, and sow a good crop of spinach; that
sown in the first week of the month, will be fit for use in Septem-
ber, and what you sow in the second, will be in fine condition in
October.

In the last week of the month, you should sow a principal crop
of the prickly seeded Spinach, for early spring use; this ought to
be sown on dry gravelly ground, for on such it will stand the winter
much better than on any other. A second sowing will, however,
be necessary for the same purpose, in the first week of Septem-
ber; as it will always be proper to have a double chance. With
either, or both of these sowings, you may throw in a thin scattering
of Brown Dutch or cabbage lettuce, and if the winter is any way
mild, you will have good early plants in spring, which you are then
to take up and transplant into beds for heading.

Sowing Radishes.

In the eai"ly part of this month, you should sow a sufficient sup-
ply of short-top and salmon radishes; also, some of the white Na-
ples and turnep-rooted kinds: these will be fit for the table in Sep-
tember. About the middle of the month, you ought to sow a second
crop to come into use in October.

A full crop of the black and white Spanish, or winter radishes,
may be sown at either, or both of the above periods, for fall and
winter use.

460 THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [Aug.

*isparagus.

The plantations of asparagus should now be kept perfectly clear
from weeds; but particularly those which were planted last spring;
and likewise, the seedling beds; but this must be done by a very-
careful hand weeding.

Tiirneps.

The first week in this month, is a very principal time for sowing
your general crops of turnep, for autumn and winter use, whether
in the field or garden; you may continue, in the middle states, to
sow, as opportunity offers, or as the season proves favourable, till
the middle of the month, after which, it will be too late to expect
any tolerable produce. In the eastern states, the last sowing ought
to be performed in the first week of this month, and the earlier in
that, the better. If any be sown after the above periods, it ought
to be of the early Dutch kind; this will arrive at maturity, at an
earlier period than any other sort. In the southern states, turneps
m^ay be sown somewhat later. For general directions, see page
432, 8cc.

Celery.

Plant now a full crop of late celery; let this be done as early in
the month as possible, and as directed in pages 406, and 431.

Continue to earth up your advancing crops of celery, once every
ten or fourteen days; observing to do this in a dry day, and previous-
ly to break the earth fine with the spade; take care to gather up all
the leaves neatly, and not to bury the hearts of the plants.

*

Jlrtichokes.

The late spring plantations of artichokes should be now looked
over, and treated as directed for the older plants, in page 436.

Small Sallading.

Where a constant supply of small sallading is wanted, such as let-
tuce, cresses, radish, rape and mustard, they should now be sown
every eight or ten days, on a shady border, and frequently watered
both before and after coming up.

Sowing Peas.

You may any time between the first and fifteenth of this month,
or at each period, sow a crop of the Early-frame, Golden, or
Charlton hotspur peas: these, should the season prove favourable,
will afford you tolerable crops in September. If the weather be
dry, soak the peas, and water the drills, as directed in page 437.

Aug.] the KITCHEN-GARDEN, 461

Planting Kidney Beans.

At any time before the middle of the month, you may plant a
crop of the early cream-coloured, early yellow, or early speckled
dwarf-kidney beans; they will yet succeed very well; but should
the ground and weather be dry at the lime, the drills ought to be
watered, and the beans soaked in soft water, four or five hours be-
fore planting.

Sowing and transplanting Lettuces.

Early in the month, sow a good supply of lettuces, for fall use;
the kinds proper to sow now, are the grand admiral, brown Dutch,
Imperial, large royal, white Cos, Mogul, and New-Zealand let-
tuces; all these kinds succeed well at this season. Sow them as di-
rected in the former months. A succession crop should, also, be
sown about the middle of the month.

In the last week of the month, sow some of the brown Dutch
and hardy green cabbage lettuce, and, also some of the ground ad-
miral, to transplant into frames and on warm borders, in October,
for winter and spring use; for the method of protecting them from
frost, see November.

Transplant from the seed-beds, such of your advancing young
ci'ops of lettuces, as are grown to a sufficient size; let this be done
as directed in the preceding months, and, if possible, in moist or
cloudy weather; giving them a plentiful watering, when planted,
and repeat it frequently, if necessary. Be particular always to sow and
plant your lettuces in an open situation, and not to suffer them to
be drawn up, or to remain too long in the seed-beds; othei'wise they
will never form good heads.

Endive.

Tie up your Endive, which is full grown, or cover them with
boards, or tiles, to blanch; this must be performed when the leaves
are very dry, otherwise the plants will rot. Select the large and
full-hearted plants, and with bass, or other strings, or with small
osier twigs, tie them a little above the middle, not too tight, previ-
ously gathering up the leaves regularly in the hand.

Transplant, agreeable to the directions given in page 430, such
young endive as is now of a proper size, and water it immediately,
which repeat, occasionally, till the plants begin to grow freely. These
plants must be set in an open situation, and by no means near any
land of shade whatever.

In the early part of the month, sow a full crop of endive, for
late autumn and winter use; the green curled sort, is by much
the most preferable for this sowing, as being more hardy, and
keeping better, than any other kind. It would be proper to sow
some more of the same sort, about the middle of the month; for

462 THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [Aug.

these, provided they have time to grow to a proper size, will keep
better than those which were sown earlier.

Cardoons, and Finochio,

The Cardoons which were planted in June, will now be arrived at
some considerable height; so that you may begin to tie up some
for blanching: bind the stalks round, rather loosely, as practised
with endive, and draw the earth up to the stems, as you would to
celery: repeat this earthing, from time to time, as they advance in
growth, till whitened to a sufficient height.

Earth up Finochio, which is full grown, in order to blanch, and
render it fit for use.

Melons and Cucumbers.

Your crops of melons and cucumbers, whether in an advancing,
or fruiting state, should be kept very clean, which will much im-
prove the flavour, and encourage the growth of the fruit. If the
weather proves very dry, a gentle watering, now and then, given
in the evening, will be of considerable service to the late crops, but
more particularly to the cucumbers.

Care of the general Crops.

All your crops should be kept clear from weeds, using the hoe,
where it can be done with safety, and where not, they must be care-
fully hand-wed. Earth up your advancing crops of cabbages, peas,
beans, and all others, that require that treatment. Water all new
plantations, and such young advancing seedlings as may be impro-
ved thereby. Pull up the haulm and stalks of peas, beans, and cab-
bages. Sec. which have done bearing, and carry them out of the gar-
den, as well as all weeds, hoed or picked up.

Herhs.

Cut such herbs as are now in flower, to distil, or to dry for winter
use, always observing to do it when they are dry, and spread them
in a dry, shady place; for if they are dried in the sun, they will
shrink up, turn black, and be of little value.

You may now, if omitted in spring, or in the preceding months,
plant slips of sage, rue, lavender, mastich, thyme, hyssop, and
winter savory, Sec. but these will not be near so strong, nor so ca-
pable of resisting the severity of the winter, as those planted at an
earlier period.

Cut down the decayed flower-stems of any kinds that appear un-
sightly; and at the same time it will be proper to shorten all the
straggling young branches, in order to keep the plants in due com-
pass; which will cause them to produce fresh shoots, and make
the plants appear neat, during the remainder of the season. This
should be done, if possible, in moist or cloudy weather.

AuG.J THE KITCHEN-GARDEN, 463

Corn-Sallad.

The Valeriana Locusta, variety olitoria^ grows commonly in the
cornfields, in many parts of Europe; hence, it is called cofn-
sallad; and from its being sufficiently hardy to stand the winter,
and of early growth in spring, has acquired the appellation of
Lamb's-Lettuce, from its affording them an early pasturage.

This is an annual plant, and is cultivated as an esculent herb in
sallads for winter and early spring use. It should be sown in the
middle slates, in the last week of this month, or first in September,
on a dry soil and open situation, and raked in; the plants will come
up soon after, and should be thinned to two or three inches asun-
der; they are used during the winter and early spring months, in
composition with lettuce and other sallad herbs, and as a substitute
for these, where deficient.

Winter Cresses.

The Erysimum Barbarea, or winter cress, is used for the same
purpose, sown at the same time, and treated in like manner, as di-
rected above, for corn-sallad. This plant is by the market-garden-
ers, about Philadelphia, called Scurvy-grass, to which it is by no
means allied; the latter being the Cochlearia officinalis of Linn, which
has rather a disagreeable smell, and a warm, bitter taste, by no
means palatable as a sallad. The winter cresses, if sown in the last
week of this month, or first in September, on a dry soil, and warm
exposure, will afford an early sallad in spring, very pleasing to
some palates, and perfectly resembling, in taste and flavour, and
somewhat in appearance, the Sisymbrium nasturtium^ or water-cresso

Lima and Carolina Beans.

Hoe and clean between the hills, or rows, of Lima and Carolina
beans, and cut off any runners that are found to trail on the surface
of the ground; which only tend to rob the bearing vines.

Southern States.

In the southern states, particularly the Carolinas and Georgia,
this month being the commencement of their rainy season, it is
common to sow cauliflowers, cabbage, carrot, parsnep, onion, leek,
and endive; and in short, the general variety of seeds that are sown
in the middle states, in the months of March and April. These
kinds arrive there, at a tolerable degree of perfection, before their
winter sets in, which is so very mild, as scarcely to injure any of
their esculent crops; and such of them' as do not c6me to maturity
before winter, attain it early in spring.

464 THE ORCHARD. [Aug.

Dung-hills and Weed-heaps.

The dung-hills should, during the summer months, be kept free
from weeds; for if the seeds of such are permitted to ripen and
fall, the dung when carried into the garden will poison the whole
ground. The manure produced by the heaps of weeds taken out
of the garden, should not be introduced therein again, until it is
three or four years old, lest the seeds which happened to ripen,
should stock the ground afresh.

THE FRUIT-GARDEN.

The care of your wall and espalier fruit-trees, &c. being the
same in this month as directed in the former, page 438, I refer you
thereto, to avoid repetition.

Should any of the shoots be displaced by winds or other accidents,
let them be immediately made fust again, in a secure and neat
manner.

Fig-Trees.

The wall and espalier fig-trees will now be ripening their fruit;
they should be kept neatly trained, but the knife must not be used,
except to the fore-right and other irregular productions; as it is
from the young shoots of this season's growth, that you are to ex-
pect fruit next year; and these bearing principally towards their
extremities, ought not to be shortened. Lay in the shoots regu-
larly, not across one another, and let them be well secured, for the
wind and rain have great power over them, on account of their
broad leaves.

Budding.

For the budding necessary to be done in this month, see the
JSi'ursery department.

THE ORCHARD.

Such of your standard peach, and other trees, as are over-
burdened with fruit, and likely to break down, should be supported
■with substantial stakes; to which, the pending branches ought to
be bound by strong hay-bands, taking care to place part thereof

Aug.] the NURSERY. 465

between each stake and the branch, lest the bark should be injured:
these supports are to be taken away, as soon as the fruit are oiF.
See the article Orchard^ in page 439; what is there directed, is very
applicable at this time.

THE VINEYARD.

Keep your vines in a neat regular order, trained up and tied
to the poles, and suffer none to trail upon the ground; by this means
the influence of the sun and free air will be adnnitted to the fruit,
which are essentially necessary to its timely maturity.

You should now be very particular in keeping the ground between
the- vines free from weeds; for at this time a clean surface answers,
in a great degree, to reflect the sun's heat upon the vines and fruit,
which will cause them to ripen soon, and acquire an improved rich-
ness of taste and flavour: and besides, neither the vines nor fruit
will be so subject to contract mildew, as if the vapours and damps
■were confined round them by weeds, or by their own branches laying
trailing about. Some of the early sorts of grapes will begin to ri-
pen about the end of this month, but the general vintage may be
expected some time in September, early or late according to the
season.

Continue to divest the main shoots of all young side productions,
but be careful not to pull off or injure the leaves. Such fruit bear-
ing branches as were topped, ought to be likewise divested of young
shoots as they are produced, at least of the greater number.

THE NURSERY.

Budding.

This is the proper season for budding or inoculating peaches,
nectarines, almonds, apples and pears; also apricots on peach or
almond stocks; but when the apricot is to be worked on the plum,
it ought to be done in July.

Cherries, plums, or any other fruU-trees, may also be budded in
this month, if the bark parts freely from the stock. Peuvi ought
to be inoculated in the early purt of the month, or while the sap
flows freely; but the peach, nectarine, almond and appie, will suc-

3 N

466 THE NURSERY, [Aug.

ceed any time between the first of x\ugust and twentieth of Sep-
tember, provided that the stocks are young and viijjorous.

You may now inoculate all such curious trees and shrubs, as you
wish to propagate in that way: there are very few but will succeed
at this time, if worked on good and suitable stocks; but when you
find the bark not to part or rise freely, it will be almost in vain to
attempt the work. Many kinds now take a second growth, and
when that is perceivable, it will be a very proper time to inoculate
them. For general instructions on this subjefct, see, page 441.

JSTew Budded Trees.

You should now look carefully over the stocks which were bud-
ded in July, and, in three weeks, or at most a month after their lieing
worked, loosen the bandages, lest the buds should be pinched there-
by; and where there are any shoots produced below the buds, they
should be rubbed off. You ought, also, to examine the trees which
were budded the former year, or grafted in the spring, and cut off
all the shoots that are produced beneath the inoculations or grafts;
for if these are permitted to grow, they will starve the proper
shoots.

Preserving the Stones of Fruits.

Preserve peach, plum, cherry, and apricot stones, 8cc. to sow for
raising stocks to bud and graft on. These may either be sown im-
mediately, or preserved till October or any of the following months,
in common garden earth or moist sand; but it vi^ill be necessary to
embrace the first opportunity in spring, if not before, to sow them
before the stones open and the radicles begin to shoot, otherwise a
great number of these would be injured in the act of sowing. You
may mix the stones with either earth or sa^id, which put into gar-
den pots or boxes, and plunge these to their edges, and no deeper,
in some dry border, till the time of sowing. Every diiy that they
are kept out of the ground is an injury to them, and if preserved
in a dry state till spring, very few will vegetate for a year after, and
the far greater number not at all.

Weed and water Seedlings, Sfc.

The seedling trees and shrubs of all kinds must now be kept per-
fectly clean from weeds; for these, if permitted to grow among
the youny; plants, would totally ruin them.

In dry weather you must be careful to give frequent waterings to
the seedling plants, whether in beds, boxes, or pots, according to
their respective necessities.

Keep the ground between the rows of trees well hoed, and
train up the various sorts of forest-trees and shrubs for the several
purposes they are designed; h\it do not trim the stems of standard
trees loo close, for it is necessary to leave some small shoots to
detain the sap, for the purpose of strengthening those parts.

AuG.j THE PLEAStJRE-GARDEN. 467

Preparing Ground for .Autumn Planting.

Towards the end of this month you should begin to clear and
trench the vacant quarters, in which you intend to plant fruit-slocks,
or trees or shrubs of any kind, in C)ctober or November, &c. that
the rain may soak and mellow the ground, before the season of
planting; and if the land be of a stiff nature, the laying of it up
in high sloping ridges, by exposing more surface to the sun, rain,
and dews, will greatly improve it, and it can be the more expedi-
tiously levelled down, and rendered in a fit condition for planting,
when necessary.

THE PLEASURE, OR FLOWER-GARDEN.

Carnations and Pinks.

Transplant the layers and pipings of carnations and pinks that
are sufficiently rooted; and treat them in every respect as directed
in page 446, which see. You may yet lay pinks and carnations, if
omitted in June and July, taking care to keep the earth moderately
moist about them till well rooted; but it would be much better, to
have done this in the beginning of July, as in that case, the layers
would be strong and well established before winter. For the method,
see page 421.

Auriculas and Polyanthuses.

The first week in this month is a very proper time to shift into
fresh compost, such of your choice auriculas as were not new pot-
ted in April, or May; for which compost, and the method of
shifting, see page 347, Sec. You may at the same time, take off"
any strong slips that have fibres attached to them, and plant them
as there directed; this fresh earth will strengthen the plants great-
ly, and improve their flowers the following spring. All your auricu-
las will require, at this season to be kept where they can be free
from the mid-day sun, and enjoy that of the morning, till nine or
ten o'clock, and that of the afternoon after four or five.

The choice polyanthuses, under similar ciicumstances, should be
treated in every respect as recommended for the auriculas.

Transplant auricula and polyanthus seedlings, as directed in
pages 348 and 350, observing to give them proper shade and occa-
sional waterings, and also to close the earth well about their roots,
otherwise the worms will draw them out of the ground.

468 THE PLEASURE, OR [Aug.

Removing and planting Bulbous Roots.

In the first week of this month, if not done in July, you should
plant all the autumn flowering bulbs which you have yet out of
ground; such as Crocuses, Colchicums autumnal. Narcissus, Ama-
ryllises, &c. and likewise, any spring flowering bulbs that do not
agree with being kept too long in a dry state; as Fritillaries, Crown
Imperials, Snow-drops, spring Crocuses, Martagons, red and white
Lilies, bulbous Irises, &c. Any of the latter kinds, may now be
taken up and immediately transplanted; but this should be done
early in the month, before they begin to push out new fibres; af-
ter which, they would be considerably weakened by a removal.
You may also, at this time, take up, separate, and transplant, the
roots of Paeonias, Flag Irises, and any other hardy kinds of fleshy
or tuberous-rooted flowers, whose leaves are now decayed. When
the roots are taken up the small offsets should be separated and
planted in beds, to increase the kinds, and the large roots replant-
ed in any beds or borders where wanted for flowering. Each re-
spective kind is to be covered from two to four inches deep, gene-
rally in proportion to the size and strength of the roots.

Transplanting Seedling Perennials and Biennials.

Transplant into nursery beds, the seedlings of the various kinds
of perennial and biennial flowers, that are now of a proper size, as
directed in page 424; or such may now be planted finally, where
they are to flower next season. As the wall-flower and stock-gilly-
flower plants will, in the middle and eastern states, require some
protection in winter, such should now be transplanted into pots, or
into beds where frames may be placed over them, on the approach
of severe frosts.

Sowing Seeds of Bulbous-rooted Flowers.

The seeds of Tulips, Hyacinths, Narcissuses, Irises, Crown
Imperials, Fritillaries and Lilies, or of any other kinds of
bulbs, whose seeds are ripe, may now be sown, in order to ob-
tain new varieties. These if sown as soon after being ripe as they
are sufficiently dry and hardened, will vegetate, the ensuing-
spring; but if kept out of the ground till that period, very few of
them will come up for a full year after. For the method of sowing
the seeds, Sec. see the Flower-garden for next month.

Propagating Fibrous-rooted Perennial Plants.

Most of the early flowering, fibrous-rooted plants, whose flow-
er-stema had been cut down in June or July, will some time in this
month, have thrown up new suckers from the roots; then such
may be carefully taken off", and planted in nursery beds; or the
whole roots may towards the end of the month be taken up and di-

Aug.] FLOWER-GARDEN. 469

vided into many separate parts, taking care to do it in such a man-
ner, as that every plant, or part, so separated, may be furnished
with roots. Trim or cut off from each slip, or part, any long or
bruised roots; pick oflF all decayed or declining leaves, and plant
the sets or divisions, in a shady border, or where they can be con-
veniently covered with mats or other covering, till newly rooted.

They should be watered immediately, and that repeated from
time to time, till they are well taken with the ground, and in a free
growing state.

Pinks, sweet-william, rose-campion, scarlet-lychnis, gentianella,
polyanthuses, primroses, double daisies, double chamomile, dou-
ble perennial catchfly, double ragged-robin, perennial Cyanus, Mo-
nardas, Penstemons, Phloxes, Violas, Campanulas, Dracocephalums,
Spiraea trifoliata, and various other kinds, may now be propagated
in this way.

Collecting Flowering Plants from the Woods, Fields, and Swamps.

Many beautiful ornamental plants may now be collected
from the woods, fields, and swamps, which would grace and
embellish the Flower-garden and Pleasure-grounds, if intro-
duced thereinto: and that at a season when the general run of
cultivated flowers are out of bloom; such as Lobelias of various
kinds, Aletris farinosa, Asclepiases, in sorts, Asters, Cassia mari-
landica, Chelones, Cucubalus stellatus, Cypripediums, Dodecathe-
on Meadia, Dracocephalums, Eupatoriums, Euphorbias, and Ga-
lega virginiana; Gentianas, hardy herbaceous Geraniums, Gerar-
dias, Glycines, Gnaphaliums, Hedysarums, Helianthuses and
Heucheras; Hibiscuses, Hypoxises, Irises, Liatrises, Lysima-
chias, Melanthiums, Monardas, Napaeas and Ophryses; Orchises,
Oxaliscs, Podalyrias, Penstemons, Phloxes, Polygala senega, Rhex-
ias, Rudbeckias, Sarracenias and Saxifragas; Sylphiums, Sisyrin-
chiums, Solidagoes, Spigelia marilandica, Trilliums, Veratrums
and Veronicas; Limadorum tuberosum, Lilium superbum and
canadense, Erythronium americanum, together with an immense
number of other delightful plants.

All the above, and any other kinds you meet with, that are wor-
thy of notice, may be taken up, whether in, or out of flower, with
balls of earth, brought home, and planted immediately; on taking
them up, cut off the flower-stems, (if any) and when planted, give
water and shade for a few days to the fibrous-rooted kinds; next year
they will flower luxuriantly, after which, each sort may be propaga-
ted in its proper season. Observe in planting, to give each res-
pective kind, a soil and situation as nearly similar as possible to that,
in which you found it in its wild state.

Saxifrage.

The double variety of the Saxifraga granulata^ or white saxi-
frage, is a most beautifuf flowering plant, .and extremely deserving
of place among every fine collection of flowers; its root is composed

470 1'HE PLEASURE, OR [Aug.

of several little grains or knobs, attached to a main fibre, and throw-
ing out small fibres from their base: the stem is erect, round,
branched, and panicled at top, usually from eight to ten inches
high, producing in April and May, beautiful bunches of double
white flowers: its leaves are somewhat fleshy, lobed and cut;
those next the root on long foot-stalks; those on the stem alter-
nate, subsesile.

It is commonly cultivated in pots, to adorn windows, rooms, 8cc-
and affords one of the best specimens of what is called a granulous
root.

The foliage of this species is generally decayed about this time;
therefore the roots may be taken up in little bunches attached to
fibres, and planted immediately in pots of good fresh earth; they
are not to be covered more than an incn deep; the pots must be
placed in the shade, till October, and gently watered at intervals;
late in autumn the foliage will begin to appear, and on the approach
of winter, the pots should be placed in a garden frame, where they
may have some slight protection from severe frosts. The plants
are tolerably hardy, and in mild winters will survive in the open
ground.

The Saxifraga umbrosoj ot London pride, may, towards the end
of this month, be propagated by slips from the root. This makes
a good edging for beds and borders, and is perfectly hardy. The
flowers are produced in panicles, on stems of about a foot high;
they are small but numerous, of a white or flesh-colour, spotted
beautifully with yellow and red, having also red pistils. It is a na-
tive of Ireland, growing in a wild state near the lake of Killarney,
on the mountains near Sligo, on Croagh Pairick, in the county of
Mayo, and in various other parts; it is said, also, to be indigenous in
England, and was such a favourite, for the beauty and elegance of its
flowers, as to be generally called A'one-so-firetty^ and also for its
thriving in London, better than most plants, was called Lo?idon
Pride. Its flowers arc produced in May and June.

The Saxifraga sar?nentosay China or Strawberry Saxifrage; has
round variegated leaves, and Strawberry-like runners; the uncom-
mon magnitude of the two lowermost pendant petals, joined to the
very conspicuous glandular nectary in the centre of the flower, half
surrounding the germen, render this species strikingly distinct;
and has created a doubt in the minds of Mr. Curtis and others,
whether it ought not to be considered a distinct genus.

It has been generally treated as a Green-house plant, but with
me, it survived the severe winter of 1804-5, in the open ground,
and therefore I consider it perfectly hardy. It flowers in May and
June, delights in a dry soil, and may now be propagated by its run-
ners, which it produces in great abundance.

The Saxifraga Cotyledon, or Pyramidal Saxifrage. This species
has a fibrous perennial root, crowned with cartilaginous sawed
leaves in a cluster, like house-leek; the stems are generally about a
foot, or more, high, and terminated with panicles of white flowers;
the whole forming a beautiful pyramid. The flowers are produced
in May and June, and when kept in the shade, and screened from

Aug.] FLOWER-GARDEN. 47 1

wind and rain, will continue in beauty a considerable time. The
plant may now be propagated, by offsets, which it produces freely.

Flowering Plants in Pots.

Such annual and other flowering plants, as are in pots, must now
be carefully supplied with water; some kinds requiring it twice a
day, in very dry weather, others once a day, and a few sorts not so
often. As to the consumption of water, there is an astonishing
difference in the constitutions of plants, some absorbing and dis-
charL^ing it so quickly, as to excite surprise, and others but very
slowly; therefore, you must supply each respective kind, according;
to its habit and necessity.

Ordinary Mtendance.

Give water, as often as necessary, to all the young plantations of
herbaceous flower-roots; cut down the stems of such as are past
bloom; loosen the earth in the tops of all your pots containing
flowering-plants; clip hedges, if omitted in the last month; clip
box edgings, and trim the various other kinds used for that pur-
pose, into a neat and becoming form; but let this be done early in
the month, and, if possible, in moist or cloudy weather. Mow
grass-walks and lawns, once a week or fortnight, according to the
growth of the grass. Sweep, dress, and roll the gravel-walks once
a week; hoe and clean the flower borders, beds, alleys, and shrub-
bery compartments; and let the weeds be raked up and carried
away immediately out of the garden. Sec. Trim and tie up any
loose growing or straggling plants; dress disorderly growing
shrubs, and inoculate such kinds as you wish to propagate in that
way.

Gather flower-seeds, as they ripen, and preserve them till the
season of sowing; most kinds will keep better and longer in their
p&ds or husks, tljan when rubbed out.

Sou'iug Auricula, Polyanthus, xinemone, and Ranunculus Seeds.

I find in almost every treatise on gardening, that 1 have met with,
even in the celebrated works of Mr Millar, directions for sowing
the above seeds in this month, and September: I have tried the ex-
periment for many years, but was generally unsuccessful; princi-
pally, on account of the seeds vegetating on the approach of win-
ter, and these minute plants always being destroyed before spring,
by earth-worms, slugs, snails, or by other accidents; therefore, I
have given up that practice as a bad one, and adopted sowing them
in December, as there directed, or in January or February, from
which sowi.Tgs I have uniformly been successful. I have noticed
this subject here, in order to correct what I conceive to be an erro-
neous practice, lest the pursuing of it would disappoint, and, con-
sequently discourage, those who have a taste for these elegant

472 THE GREEN-HOUSE. [Aug.

flowers. Even if preserved in a Green-house, those small plants
are subject to the same accidents, or to be eaten by the Oniscus, or
woodlouse, before the spring vegetation commences.

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

Shifting and giving fresh earth to the Plants.

In the first week of this month, if not done before, you may
shift into larger pots, &c, young oranges, lemons, citrons and shad-
docks, and also, such other plants as are too much confined, and
that have perfected their spring or summer shoots, previous to their
beginning to push their autumn growths; such is the critical pe-
riod in which plants ought to have a summer shifting, and should
be particularly noticed in any climate or country where such prac-
tice is necessary. Let this operation be performed, as directed in
page 361; after which, treat the plants as recommended in page
452.

Loosen the earth in the tops of such pots or tubs, as it appears
hard or stiff in, and add some fresh compost thereto, if not done last
month; this, and the picking off, of any decayed leaves, together
with the trimming of disorderly branches, will give a fresh and
pleasing appearance to the collection, add to the beauty, and pro-
mote the vigorous growth of the plants.

Propagating the Plants.

You may still continue to propagate various kinds of plants, by
cuttings, layers, and suckers, as directed in the former months.

Budding Oranges and Lemons, Sfc.

Any time this month, you may succesfully bud oranges, le-
mons, citrons, limes, and shaddocks; beginning in the first week
thereof, and centinuing to the end; observing to work each tree as
you perceive it to put forth its fresh autumn shoots; some trees,
even of the same species, will produce those earlier or later in the
month, and so soon as you perceive a few of them grown to two
or three inches in length, seize upon that time to perform the ope-
ration, as then the sap being in a fresh state of circulation, the bark
of the stock will separate freely for the reception of the bud, and
the necessary nourishment will be, copiously supplied.

Observe, at this time, to take the buds from shoots produced
in the early part of the present season. The proper stocks are

Aug.] the GREEN-HOUSE. 473

those raised from the kernels, of either of the species. For the
methods of budding, and general observations 00 that subject, see
page 441, Sec.

It will be very proper on budding those, or any other kinds of
plants in pots, to place them in the shade for three or four weeks,
after the operation is performed; or at least to turn the budded
side of each plant to the north, in order to avoid the drying influence
of the sun.

Cut off oranges, lemons, jasmins and other exotics, which were
inarched in April or May, provided that you find them sufficiently
united. For the method of doing this, see the article Grafting by
nAji/iroachjOr Inarching.^ in page 257.

Watering.

Carefully attend to the watering of all the plants, giving it to
each as often as necessary, and in proportion to its consumption;
observing always to administer it sparingly to the succulent kinds.

The pouring of water, occusionaljy, through the rose of a wa-
tering pot, over the branches of the shrubby kinds, would greatly
refresh them, and wash off the dust collected on the leaves; which
would give them a clean and pleasing appearance: but this should
be done late in the evening when the sun has lost its power for the
day.

Such pots as are plunged, must be turned full round in their
seats, at least once a week, to prevent the roots penetrating into
the surrounding earth, through the holes in the bottoms of the
pots.

The Mexican Ferraria, or Tiger-jiower.

The Ferraria Tigridia, oiCvKTis, or Tigriclia/iavonia, oi Lin. and
WiLLDENOW, is of such exquisite beauty, as to merit particular at-
tention. It is of the Gynandria class, and order Triandria. lis Root
is a tunicated bulb, producing from one to four stems, from eighteen
inches to two feet in height, composed of various joints, and
bearing at each, a plicated oblong lanceolate leaf, from a sheathing
petiole the length of the internode, and at the summit an in-
volucrum, apparently consisting of two lanceolate, ancipital, con-
duplicate, nearly equal valves, of which the exterior is in fact
the common spathe or involucre, and embraces the interior with
its contents; the interior valve, which is exactly opposed 10 the
outer one, is the proper spathe of the first flower and embraces it,
together with the spathes and flowers that are to come in succes-
sion; the spathe of the second flower is opposed to that of the first,
and placed between it and the pedicle of the first flower; and so of
the rest, every spathe being opposed to the one of the preceding
flower and embraced by it. These spathes are similar in shape,
but diminish progressively and become niore membranaceous. The
Corolla^ or flower, is large and divided into six segments, of which
the three outer are urceolate at the base, expanded above, and re-

3 O

474 i'HE HOT-HOUSE. [Aus.

fleeted at the pointj the three inner ones smaller by half, biform-
ed, singularly divided into a lower hastate and an upper ovate divi-
sion, by a depressed intersection; the upper division is of the
richest scarlet imaginable, variegated by a bright golden yellow.
The Filament.^ is a cuniculated or piped triquetral column. The
jinthers, are sessile, erect, beai'ing their pollen on the outside, con-
niving at the point, diverging below to admit the exit of the stig-
mas. The Gernien, is obtusely trigonal, three celled. Style, the
length of the filamental column, through the hollow of which it
passes. Stig7naa, three, filiform, bifid. Ca/isule, oblong, obtusely
trigonal three-celled. Seeds, in double rows in each cell and round.

Hernandez, a Spanish physician, who was sent to Mexico, by
Philip II. King of Spain, informs us, that it grew wild about that
city, and was much cultivated for its excessive beauty, and for the
medicinal virtues of its roots, being, as he terms it, a " frigefacient
in fevers, and also a promoter of fecundity in women." i

This flower has no scent; but in splendid beauty, it has scarcely
any competitor. It is born to display its glory but a few hours,
and then literally melts away; but to compensate for this sudden
decline, it continues to produce flowers for several weeks. The
latter end of this month is generally the season of its bloom.

It is properly a Green-house plant, succeeds best in light mould,
and is easily propagated by seed, from which the plants will flower
the second year. The bulbs and off'sets may be taken up in Octo-
ber, when the leaves are decayed, and kept in dry sand, saw-dust or
rolled up in dry moss till March; but they must be carefully preserv-
ed from frost. Or they may be replanted immediately in pots of
fresh earth, and placed in the Green-house; giving them but verj'
little water, till they begin to vegetate in spring.

THE HOT-HOUSE.

Pine-Apples.

The care of the fruiting pines being the same in this month as in
the last, is unnecessary to be repeated; as likewise the propagation
of the plants by crowns and suckers, as well as the shifting of those
succession pines which are expected to produce fruit next season.

Let this shifting, where neglected last month, be done, if possi-
ble, in the first or second week of this, that the plants may have
time to establish strong roots, and to be advanced in free and vigo-
rous growth before winter. For the method of shifting, see page
457.

Aug.] the HOT-HOUSE. 475

Besides the watering of the pine plants in the common way, it
will be of great service to them, in very warm weather, to water
the walks and flues of the Hot-house occasionally: this should al-
ways be done late in the evening, and the glasses ought to be im-
mediately closed. The great heat of the house will exhale the
moisture, and raise a kind of artificial dew, which will soon stand in
drops on the glasses; the leaves of the pine being succulent, they
will imbibe the watry particles, and be greatly benefited thereby.

Raising the Pine from Seed.

New varieties of the Pine may be obtained from seeds, and when
such is found in the fruit, which is very uncommon, even in the
West-Indies, they should be carefully preserved in dry sand till
March, when they will vegetate and succeed better than if sown
at an earlier period. The pots for this purpose should be then filled
to within an inch of their rims, with light rich earth, and plunged
into a warm part of the tan-bed, for a day or two before sowing the
seeds, which should be placed therein about an inch apart, and co-
vered not more than a quarter of an inch deep. Cover the pots
immediately with pieces of glass that will fit the tops very close;
this by preventing the mould from drying and giving an additional
heat to it near the surface, will soon cause the seeds to vegetate.
After the plants appear, sprinkle them over with water occasionally;
as they advance in size, give them increased portions of air and wa-
ter, and by the time they have five or six leaves, they will be able to
withstand the general air of the Hot-house.

By the end of August these seedlings will be grown to a proper
size for transplanting; when they should be put into small pots,
filled with the same mould recommended for crowns and suckers
in page 454; and from that time their treatment requires no differ-
ence from that of those.

Shifting the various Exotics, S^c.

The beginning of this month is a very proper season for the
shifting of Aloes, Sedums, Cactuses, Mesembryanthemums, and all
other succulent exotics; they will now take fresh root sooner than
at any other time of the year: you should at the same time take ofT
any offsets that may be produced, and plant them into small pots
filled with fresh sandy earth, placing them where they may have
only the morning sun for ten or twelve days, and observing to re-
fresh them, now and then, with a little water.

The several kinds of tender exotics that require it, should now
be shifted, in order to establish strong and fresh roots before winter;
observing to place them in the shade immediately after, till they
shall have recovered the check occasioned by the removal. This
work should be performed early in the month; for if they are shift-
ed too late in the season, they do not recover before the cold comes
on, which checks their growth, prevents their free rooting, and
consequently, renders them not so well prepared to maintain them-

476 1'HE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [SEKf.

selves in winter, as if done at an early period; and many kinds
that have stood too long in the same pots, without shifting, -will
have their roots so matted, as to grow mouldy in winter and decay;
which has often been destructive to many choice plants.

The other plants which do not require shifting at this season,
should have some of the earth taken out of the tops of the pots, if
not done last month, and replaced with fresh compost; this will
greatly encourage their autumn growth, and should not be neglect-
ed.

The regular watering of the plants must now be duly attended
to, for one day's neglect, at this season, might destroy many of your
most valuable plants. Keep all the collection free from decayed
leaves, and such pots as are plunged in the earth, must be turned
quite round in their seats once a week, for the reasons mentioned
in the preceding months.

Keep all the pots and tubs free from weeds, and continue to pro-
pagate the various kinds by suckers, layers or cuttings.

Labeling the Plants.

In large collections, all the plants should be labeled, having the
Generic and Sfiecific name of the plant on each label. These may
be made of small slips of pine or cedar, each from six to ten inches
long, near an inch broad at top, tapering to a point at the lower end
and about a quarter of an inch thick. When the sticks are ready,
the parts to be written on should be rubbed lightly with white, oil
colour paint; then, with a black lead pencil, while yet ive(, write
the generic and specific name of the plant thereon, which will soon
dry and become completely permanent; the label is then to be stuck
into the pot near the rim, and so deep as to leave the writing easy
to be seen. These labels will continue good for *three years, or
longer.

SEPTEMBER.

WORK TO BE DONE IN THE KITCHEN-GARDEN.

Some persons who write on Gardening, content themselves by
simply saying that such a thing, should be sown in such a month;
this gives a latitude in the present, of thirty days; so that an inex-
perienced person, may be led to think that he is within due bounds,
if he sows on the 30th of September, what ought to have been
sown in the first week, perhaps about the first day thereof, whilst
experienced Gardeners well know, that a difference of three or four

Sept.] THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. 477

days, particularly in this month, makes a greater odds in crops,
than most people could imagine would be consequent on the differ-
ence of as many weeks.

I am not an advocate for sowing seeds on a particular day of the
week, or month, nor in the full or wune of the moon, nor when the
wind blows from the east, west, or any particular point of the com-
pass; these ridiculous and superstitious notions, have been long
since deservedly banished out of the well informed world; but in
this month, above all others in the year, there is an absolute neces-
sity of sowing certain crops, within a few days of particular pe-
riods, in order to ensure the best possible success; so that the
plants may not become too strong before winter, and consequently,
be subject to start to seed early in spring, previously to their attain-
ing due perfection, nor be too weakly to endure the severities of the
ensuing: winter.

Spinach.

Hoe and clean your advancing crops of spinach, and let the plants
be thinned out to proper distances in order to afford sufficient room
for the production of large succulent leaves.

In the first week of this month prepare some good dry ground,
for a full crop of spinach, for winter and spring use. In the eas-
tern states, particularly, this work should not l)e delayed later, nor
indeed in the middle states if it can be well avoided; but in a favour-
able season and a warm soil and exposure, it may succeed very
well, in the middle states, if sown so late as the fifteenth or even
the twentieth of the month; the more to the southward, the later it
may be sown.

The best sort to endure cold is the prickly seeded kind, which
is what most people sow at this season, its being much hardier than
the round seeded sort; of this there are two or three varieties, dif-
fering only in the size of their leaves; but the largest and most pro-
fitable sort is, what gardeners call the burdock-spinach. A thin sprink-
ling of the brown Dutch, Egyptian cos, and hardy cabbage lettuces
may be sown among the spinach, and if the winter is any way fa-
vourable you may have some good plants from these to transplant
early in spring for heading. A few of the early short-top salmon,
and white turnep-rooted radishes may also be sown among the spi-
nach, for use in October and November. Sow the seed thinly in
drills about eight inches distant from one another, or broad-cast,
and tread it in, then rake the ground effectually so as to cover the
seed well; or if it be cultivated on a laige scale, it may be harrowed
in with a light harrow, wrong end foremost.

When tlie plants are up and have got leaves an inch broad, or a
little better, they must be thinned, either by hand or hoe, to three or
four inches asunder, and the weeds effectually cleared away from
among them; by this treatment the plants will get stocky, gather
strength, and be the better able to stand the winter frosts.

478 THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [Sept.

Lettuces.

The various kinds of lettuces sown last month, should be planted
out as early in this, as they have attained to a proper size for that
purpose; let them be set in beds of good well prepared ground,
about ten inches asunder, and watered immediately; which should
be frequently repeated, if the weather proves dry.

In the last week of the month prepare a dry, warm, well shel-
tered south border, on which to plant the lettuces sown in the lat-
ter part of August, for standing over winter for spring use. Take
up the best plants from the seed bed, pick off the decayed leaves,
trim the ends of their roots, and plant them in rows six inches asun-
der every way; if the plants survive the winter every other one
may be taken up in spring and planted in new beds, which will give
the others abundance ot room to grow to the best perfection.
They are to be protected during winter as directed in JVovember.
Sow more lettuce seed in the first week of this month, to plant out
in the beginning of October, for the same purpose. The kinds
proper to be sown now are the brown Dutch, Hammersmith hardy
green, Egyptian cos, and the hardy cabbage lettuces. Also, about
the middle of the month, sow another crop of the same kinds, to be
planted in frames in October, for their winter preservation.

To have lettuces in good perfection in November, December,
and January, you should about the latter end of this month, prepare
one or more beds of rich earth, in a warm part of the garden,
where the ground is dry and lies well to the sun. Make the bed
or beds the length and width of one or more cucumber frames; plant
therein some good plants of your best kinds of heading and cos let-
luces, and give them water occasionally till well rooted and growing
freely.

Towards the middle of next month, when the nights begin to
grow cold, place the frames and glasses on the beds; keep
on the glasses every night: but let them be kept totally off in the
day time, till the November frosts commence; after which, you
must be governed by circumstances, always admitting as much air
every day, as the safety and free growth of the plants will
warrant.

Sowing Radish Seed.

In the first week of this month, you should sow a good supply of
the early short-lop, white and red turnep rooted and salmon
radishes; also, a sufficient quantity of the black and white winter, or
Spanish kinds; the latter, on the approach of frosts, must be taken
up and preserved for winter use as you do carrots or turneps.

Endive.

As early in the month as possible, transplant a full crop of green
curled endive, for late autumn and winter use; let this be done as

Sept.] THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. 479

directed in page 430. Tie up the leaves of full grown endive for
blanching as advised in page 461.

Celery and Cardoons.

Earth up celery as it advances in growth; but be careful to
avoid covering the hearts of the plants; this work should always be
done in a dry day; lay up the stalks neatly without injuring them,
for if bruised they will become mouldy and be subject to~rot.

If your crops of celery be scanty, and that you have got strong
plants, you may about the first of this month plant them out in
trenches. Should the season prove very favourable, this crop may
succeed tolerably well.

The cardoons will now be considerably advanced in growth, and
consequently, should be earthed up regularly for blanching; as
these plants spread considerably, they must be tied up neatly with
bass strings, hay-bands, or willow twigs, &c. but not too close, so
that the hearts may freely advance in growth; then gather the
earth up all round each plant, first breaking it fine, and as you lay
it up, pat it with the back of the spade, to make it keep its place
and cast off the rain: as the plants progress in growth continue
earthing them still higher, till well whitened and fit for use; on the
approach of frost they may be protected as directed in November
for celery, if not made use of before that time.

Winter Cresses, Corn-Sallad and Chervil.

Sow corn-sallad and winter cresses the beginning of this month,
if not done in August, for winter and early spring use; let these be
sown as directed in page 463. Likewise, sow a supply of chervil
for soups and sallads; this may be sown in drills nine or ten inches
asunder and covered about a quarter of an inch deep, or broad-cast
and raked in.

Small Sallading.

Continue to sow, once every ten days, the different kinds of small
sallading as directed in the preceding months. The seeds may
now be sown in an open situation where the earth is light and rich,
but what you sow towards the end of the month should have a
warm exposure.

Hoe Turneps.

As your crops of turnep advance in growth, hoe and thin the
plants to proper distances; let this be done in a dry day, cutting the
weeds up clean with a sharp and middle sized hoe. For general
directions see page 434.

Solving Cabbage Seed.

The proper period for sowing cabbage seed, in the middle states,
to produce early summer cabbages, is between the sixth and tenth

480 THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. • [Sevt

of this month, if intended to be transplanted into frames in October,
for winter protection, which is the most preferable method; but if
they are designed for remaining in the seed-beds till spring, the
period is between the fifteenth and twentieth. However it will be
very proper to make two or three sowings within that time, as it is
impossible to say whether the fall may be favourable or otherwise,
and therefore the better way is to be prepared in either case, by
successive crops.

Tlie consequence of having plants too forward or early is, that
they are very subject to run to seed in the spring, soon after being
planted out; and if the seeds are sown too late, the plants do not
acquire sufficient strength before winter to withstand its rigour,
without extraordinary care. But, in either case there is a remedy;
that is, if the plants are likely to become too luxuriant and strong,
transplant them once or twice in October, and if too backward and
weakly, make a slight hot-bed towards the latter end of that month,
and prick them out of the seed-bed thereon; this will forward them
considerably.

At all events, I would advise, particularly in the middle states,
the first sowing to be made about the tenth or before it, the second
four days after; and the third on the eighteenth day of this month,
or at any rale within two or three days of these periods; for the
difference occasioned at this time by one or two days will in a few
weeks be very perceivable and striking. In the eastern states,
the first of the month will be a suitable period, for sowing a princi-
pal crop.

The kinds proper to be sown now are the early Smyrna, early
York, early Battersea, early Russia, and early sugar-loaf cabbages;
it would also be very proper to sow at this time, some of the large
drum-head, flat Dutch, large English and red pickling kinds, to
succeed the other sorts, and to produce fine large heads in the
early autumn months; but the seeds of these late kinds may be
sown three or four days earlier than the former, as the plants are
not so subject to run to seed in spring.

Sow these seeds in beds of good garden mould, and either cover
or rake them in, so as that they may be lodged about a quarter of
an inch deep; if the weather should prove dry, water the beds occa-
sionally in the evening till the plants are up, and in about five
weeks they will be fit for transplanting into their winter quarters,
as directed in October.

Many people are of opinion, that it is time enough to sow the
seeds of the various kinds of late cabbages in spring, but they may
rest asured, that such as are sown at this time, will produce much
larger and more solid heads, than the spring sown plants; besides,
they will be fit for use immediately after the early cabbages are
consumed, and keep up a regular and constant supply of that excel-
lent vegetable, whether fo'r sale or private use, till the spring sown
crops shall have attained to full perfection.

Sept.] THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. 481

Sowing Cauliflower Seed.

The critical period, in the middle states, for sowing cauliflower
seed is between the twentieth and twenty-eighth of this month;
if sown earlier the plants would be very subject to button (as the
gardeners term it) or flower in April or early in May, which flow-
ers seldom exceed the size of a common button, and thereby the
hopes and expectations of the cultivator is lost.

I would recommend to sow the seed at three different periods,
say the 20th, 24th, and 28th of this month; for each sowing let a small
spot of rich ground be neatly dug, mark out the bed three and a
half feet wide, and immediately sow the seed and rake it in care-
fully; or you may first rake the bed smooth, and with the back of
the rake push the loose mould evenly off the surface, for near
half an inch deep into the alleys, one half to each side, then sow the
seed, and with a spade or shovel cast this shoved off loose earth
over it, about a quarter of an inch deep, or a little better; and finish
by picking off the lumps or small stones with your liand, or draw-
in-^ them off neatly and lightly with the rake; or you may sow the
seed on the smooth raked sui fuce, and sift over it about a quarter
of an inch of light earth.

Should the weather prove dry, water the bed both before and af-
ter the plants are up, and in a month after sowing, they must be
transplanted into beds of good rich earth covered with garden
frames, at the distance of three inches from one another, there to
remain during winter, and to be taken care of as directed in the fol-
lowing months.

In the southern states, the most forward of these, may be finally
planted out in November, as directed in page 314, and covered
with bell or hand glasses during winter, but in the middle, or eastern
states this practice will not succeed, on account of the severity of
the weather at that season.

If the plants should happen to be late and of a weakly growth,
when you are planting them into frames in the latter end of Octo-
ber, let a trench be dug about ten inches deep, in a dry, warm, and
well sheltered situation, the breadth of a frame and the length of
one, two, or more, according to the quantity of plants; then fill it
in with new horse dung to the height of eighteen inches from the
bottom, and set on the frame; earth the bed over five or six inches
deep with rich earth, and set the plants in rows three inches apart
every way, immediately give them a moderate watering and place
on the glasses; observing to leave them open about four or five
inches at top, that the steam may pass away.

It will also be proper to lay a mat over the glasses in sunny
weather, till the plants have taken fresh root; after which the lights
must be totally taken off by day, till the weather becomes too se-
vere, and every advantage must subsequently be taken to give the
plants as much air as possible, consistent with their preservation.

The plants with the assistance of this slight bottom heat, will
soon take root, and be greatly forwarded thereby, so as to acquire

3 P

482 THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [Sept.

a due degree of strength before the setting in of very severe
weather.

J^ote. Late sown cabbage plants, would be greatly benefited by
treating them as directed above for Cauliflowers.

Lat& Cauliflowers and Broccoli.

If the weather should prove dry, give occasional waterings to the
crops of late cauliflowers and broccoli, which you expect to flower
in October, Sec. otherwise the heads will be small, especially if the
ground is naturally dry.

Solving Welsh Onion Seed.

Sow some Welsh onion seed for early spring sallad, Sec. This
kind never bulbs and is very hardy; for although the tops will
sometimes die down in winter, yet the roots will coniinue sound,
and push up new leaves on the eve of the first spring vegetation.

It will be necessary to sow this seed in the first week, of the
month, on beds of light rich ground in a warm exposure, and after-
wards to keep the nsing plants perfectly free from weeds.

Mushrooms.

This is a proper time to prepare for making beds, in which to
cultivate the Jlgai-icus camfiestris, Champignon, or common Mush-
room. l)f 213 species of Agaricus, enumerated by Dr. Withering^
this is the only one selected for cultivatmg in gardens. The Gills
of this are loose, of a pinky red, changing to liver colour, in contact
but not united with the stem; very thick set, some forked next the
stem, some next the edge of the cap, some at both ends; and gene-
rally in that case excluding the intermediate smaller gills. Co/?,
white, changing to brown when old, and becoming scurfy, fleshy,
and regularly convex, but with age flat, and liquifying in decay;
Jlesh white: diameter commonly from one inch to three or some-
times four or more. Stem solid, one to three inches high, and about
half an inch in diameter.

I consider the description of this species the more necessary, as
many of the others are poisonous. This is the most savory of the
genus, and is eaten fresh, either stewed or boiltd; and preserved
either as a pickle or in powder. The sauce commonly called
Catchup, is made from its juice with salt and spices. Dr. With-
ering asserts, that those galiiered from fresh undunged pastures,
are more delicate thun those which are raised in artificial beds.
Mr. MiLLEU is of a diffeient opinion, probably because the culti-
vated ones are more sightly, and may be collected more easily in a
propel state for eating.

It will be necessary in the early jiart of this month to provide a
quantity of fresh horse dung, and to throw it up in a heap to fer-
ment; when it has Iain two or three weeks turn it again, that all

Sept.] THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. 483

the parts may be equally fermented, and the violent heat passed
away. In this state it should remain till about the first week of
October, when the bed is lo be made as directed in that month;
or ihe preparation may commence in August, and the beds be made
any time this month at pleasure.

The reason for the previous preparation of the dun^, is to pre-
vent a loo violent fermentation when the bed is made, which
would totally destroy the spawn; and moreover, by this manage-
meni it will preserve a slow temperate warmth much longer than
if put tos^ether when quite fresh.

You must likewise provide a sufficiency of good mushroom
spawn; this is frequently to be found in rich pasture fields, old
mushroom beds, old cucumber beds, dung-hills or dungy composts,
but that of the true kind from the pastures, or old mushr om beds
is to be preferred; it may also be found where horses are employed
under sheds in turning mills, riding houses, livery-stable yards, &c.

The spawn is a while fibrous substance, running and spreading
itself in the rich pasture-grounds and in lumps of dryish rot(en
diing, and if of the true sort, has the exact smell of the cultivated
kind.

Take up the earth or dung in which you find it, in lumps,
observir)g lo preserve these entire, and lay them in a dry shady
place till wanted; you may cover them with straw or garden mats,
for much wet would totally destroy the spawn. But if the pieces
are wet or very damp when collected, they must be spread to dry
gradually; the spawn is seklonn, if ever, destroyed by drought,
especially when mixed with earth or dung. For the method of
making and spawing the bed, Sec. see the KUchen-Garden for
October.

Gather Seeds.

Gather all kinds of seeds as they ripen, which may be necessary
in the ensuing season, and spread them to dry on mats or cloths;
when sufficiently hardened beat them out, clean, and put them up
carefully till wanted for sowing.

Perennial Herbs.

Towards the latter end of this inonth, you may safely transplant,
all kinds of haniy perennial pot, aromatic, and medicinal herbs,
which will take tresh root and be well established before winter; but
this should be done, if possible, in moist weatlier.

Southern States.

In the southern states, particularly, where the winters are mild,
you may sow at this time, carrots, and onions lor early spring use,
as well as all the other articles recommended to be sown in this
month; and also plant out late crops of borecole, broccoli, celery,
cabbages for winter, coleworts, endive, &c. &c.

484 [Sept.

THE FRUIT-GARDEN.

Fruit Trees.

Examine your wtill and espalier trees, and where you find
any long loose branches, train them in and make them firm in their
proper places.

The early kinds of fruit trees against the walls of your forcing-
houses should, t&wards the end of this month, be pruned and trained
close to the wall or trellis, that their buds may be preparing be-
fore the season for applying artificial heat.

Gathering ripe Fruit.

Gather apples and pears as they ripen, and treat them as directed
under the head Orchard., for next month.

Prepare for Planting.

Begin towards the end of this month to prepare the borders, Stc.
in which you intend to plant fruit trees, in October or November;
it is of consequence to add a good supply of thoroughly rotted dung,
and to trench the ground to the depth of eighteen inches or two feet,
provided that the natural good soil admits thereof.

StraivbeiTies.

Of the Fragaria vesca^ or Esculent Strawberry, there are five
princifial varieties cultivated in gardens for their very delicious
fruit. I. F. viri^iniana, or scarlet strawberry. 2, F. vcsca firaten-
sis, of Jiton, or hautboy strawberry. 3. F. C/iiloetisis, or Chili
strawberry. 4. F. jil/iina, Alpine or monthly strawberry, and,
5. F. .Ananas, or pine-apple strawberry. There are besides these,
the varieties sylvestris, or common wood strawberry, and caro-
liniana, or Carolina strawberry, with many others, arising from
these, differing principally in the colour of their fruit.

The first, or Scarlet Strawberry, has dark green leaves and of a
more even surface than the others; the flowering stems are shorter,
and the fruit is frequently concealed among the leaves. It is the
earliest in ripening its fruit, for which reason it merits esteem, had
it nothing else to recommend it; but the fruit is so good as to be
generally preferred to most others.

The second, or hautboy strawberry, has larger and thicker leaves
than the scarlet, oval-lanceolate, and rough; the fruit is of a pale

Sept.J the FRUIT-GARDEN. 485

red, much larger than the scarlet, and of a musky flavour; of which
there are several varieties differing in shape and colour, but that
called the globe hautboy is the best and most improved fruit.

The third, or Chili Strawberry, has oval hairy leaves, of a much
thicker substance than any sort yet known, and stand upon very
sti'ong hairy foot-stalks; the runners from the plants are very large,
hairy, and extend to a great length, putthig out plants at several
distances. The peduncles are very strong; the leaves of the calyx
are long and hairy. I'he flowers are large and are often deformed, and
when cultivated in strong loamy land, the plants produce plenty of
large, firm, well flavoured fruit; in a light soil this kind is not gene-
rally very productive.

The fourth, or Alpine Strawberry, has small oval leaves, small
flowers, and middle-sized, oblong, pointed fruit; the plants and fruit are
considerably larger than the wood strawberry, and are particularly
valuable for their continuing to bear fruit successively, from June
till the autumn frosts put a stop to them, but with the help of hot-
beds, &c. they may be kept in a bearing state the whole year round.
The reason of its long continuance in fruit is, that the runners which
it throws out during the summer, shoot up into flowers and fruit
the same year. Of this there are four varieties, the scarlet fruited,
red fruited, white fruited and scarlet blossomed. This is said to be a
native of the Alps, in Europe.

The filth, or Pine-Apple Strawberry, has leaves which much re-
semble those of the scarlet strawberry; but are larger, of a thicker
substance, and the indentures of their edges are blunter: the run-
ners are much larger and hairy: the peduncles are stronger, the
flowers much larger, and the fruit approaches in size, shape, and
colour, to the Chili strawberry. As this produces a great quantity
oi fruit, when the plants are kept clear from runners (and the fruit
is very large) it is well worthy of cultivation. The fruit of this
variety has somewhat of the smell and taste of the Pine-apple, from
whence it takes its name.

In the cultivation of strawberries, much depends upon the
choice of plants; for if they are proniiscuLUsly taken from the beds
without care, a great number of them will become barren; these
are by the gardeners termed blind, which is when there are plenty
oi flowers but no fruit produced; if these flowers are well examined
they will be found to want the female organs of generation, most of
them abounding with stamina, but there are few, if any styles; so
that it frequently happens among these barren plants, that some of
them have a part of an imperfect fruit formed, which will some-
times ripen. The Hautboy strawberry is more subject to this, than
any of the other kinds. The plants of either sort should never be
taken from old neglected beds, where the stools had been suff"ered
to spread or run into a confused multitude of vines, nor from any
plants which are not very fruitful; and those offsets which stand
nearest to the old plants, should always be preferred.

Strawberries in general love a strong loamy ground, in which
they will thrive, and bear fruit more abundantly than in a light
soil. The ground should be somewhat moist, for if it is very dry,

486 THE FRUIT-GARDEN. [Sept.

all the watering which is given to the plants in warm dry seasons,
will not be sufficient to procure abundant crops; nor should the
ground be made overly rich with dung, for that would cause the
plants lo run into suckers, grow too luxuriant, and render them less
Iruitful.

Any time this month that the weather proves moist, you should
take advantage of it, for making your general plantations of
strawberries; but if dry and hot, it will be better to defer that work
to the last week thereof, or first in October; not later if pos-
sible, as the plants will be greatly benefited by having time to form
good roots before winter. But should the weather then prove un-
favourable you should proceed to planting, after which, plentiful
and frequent waterings must be given, till the plants are well
rooted.

The sets proper for planting at this time, are those produced,
in the present year, from the young runners; selecting them as
before noticed; or such as were taken off in June and transplanted
into nursery beds. When taken up, the roots should be trimmed,
the decayed leaves picked off, and also any small vines or runners
issuing from the plants.

The ground should be well dug and, if necessary, previously
manured with a sufficiency of old well rotted dung, then laid out
into four feet wide beds, with alleys between, of eighteen or twenty
inches, for the convenience of going in occasionally to weed and
water the plants, and to gather the fruit. Each bed is lo contain
four rows of plants, the large kinds eighteen inches distant in the
rows, and the small sorts fifteen. Close the earth well about the
roots of each plant, and when finished, water the whole plentifully,
should the weather happen to be dry at the time.

The old strawberry beds will require to be kept clear from large
overgrown weeds, and in October are to have their autumn dressing
as there directed.

N. B. If you intend to force strawberries in the winter or early
spring months, this is the time to pot them for that purpose.
The alpine and scarlet kii::ls are the best for forcing; they should be
strong plants, of two years old, and in a proper state for full bearing.
Provide as many pots of about seven inches diameter at top, and
made in proportion, as you think may be sufficient, and at the same
time get some good loamy earth, made fine with a spade, place
a few inches thereof into the bottom of each pot, previously laying
a shell over each hole as directed on former occasions, then take up
each plant with a ball of earth to its roots, pare the ball neatly round
with the knile, clear the plant from decayed leaves and runners,
place it in the pot and fill up the spaces round the sides and over
the surface of the ball with fine earth. Water the whole when pot-
ted, and remove them to the shade for eight or ten days, till newly
rooted; then you may plunge them to their riais in any open part
of the garden, there to remain, watering them occasionally, till the
approach of wmter, when the pots are to be placed under the pro-
tection of frames and glasses, till taken into the forcing depart-
ments.

Seft.] the vineyard. 487

This practice is absoVuely necessary in the middle and eastern
states, as, during winter, the earth is so hard frozen as to render it
impracticable to take up the plants out of the open ground, when
"Wanted, without injury; moreovtv, when they are potied at this
seai-on, their roots will be well esiADiished, before the time of
forcini^ commences, and consequently tht plants will be much more
productive of fruit.

THE ORCHARD.

Collecting ripe Fruit.

Apples and pears that attain now to full maturity, rarely keep
as well as those which ripen in the ensumg month; but when it is
desirable to preserve them as long as possible, they must be treated
as direcied in October.

VV^hen planting of fruit-trees is intended in the months of Octo-
ber, or November, opportunity ought to be taken of any leisure
time that may now occur, for the preparation of the ground as direct-
ed in March, under the head Orchard.

THE VINEYARD.

I am veryh:.\ppy in having it in my power to exhibit to my fellow
citizens and the public, the annexed comparative and very interest-
ing table of the progress of vegetation in Pennsylvania, Paris, the
ci-devant Champagne and Burgundy; the more especially, as it
proves the. decided advantage we possess, of a full month, in the
season of our vintage, over those famous wine countries. It also,
exhibits the medium temperature of heat in Pennsylvania, the West
Indies, Paris, Champagne, Lon"ain, Arras, Brussels, and Stockholm
in Europe, Algiers in Africa, and Pondicherry m Asia, wiiich, no
doubt, will be very interesting to Meteorologists anci other men
of science. But it is of peculiar importance, on account of its

488 I'HE VINEYARD. [Sept,

-forming a step towards the ascertaining ^ the relative degrees of
heat and cold, &c. in the various climate* oithe United States, which
in practical horticultural and agricu/ture, is of considerable mo-
ment, and the want of such infi>f niation to me, in the writing of
this treatise, is a loss which 1 greatly deplore. Without well au-
thenticated information ii> this respect, there is no knowing what
allowance to make foi' the difference of season in one climate from
that of another, and consequently, the gardener or farmer in a dis-
tant state of tJie Union, will not know how to avail himself of the
practical experiments made in another, without running a hazard,
tliat may prove unsuccessful, and ultimately deter him from the
further pursuit of an object, perhaps, of the first importance,
merely for want of a due knowledge of the proper allowance to be
made for the difference of season. Therefore, it would be of se-
rious advantage, were such observations to be made in every state
of the Union, and confined principally, to such perennial and per-
manent vegetable productions, as are common to all, or to the great-
er number. I would propose some of these, but as there are so many
Agricultural societies established, I am apprehensive that it might
be deemed presumptive in an individual. However, I shall make
observations on various plants in the neighbourhood of Philadelphia,
as to the progress of vegetation, and with pleasure communicate the
result to tiiose whom a desire for public utility, or a reciprocity ot
advantages, may stimulate to similar exertions.

The annexed table is the result of many years experience at the
observatory in Paris, and at other places, by the most correct meteo-
rologists.

Protecting the Fruit.

Your early varieties of grapes will now be ripening very fast, and
will sometimes be subject to the annoyance of birds, which are
more apt to attack the fruit a little before sun rising and about the
time of its setting, than in any other part of the day; it will be,
therefore, prudent, to have boys with rattles to frighten them away,
particularly about those hours.

You should, also, destroy poke, wild cherries, and any other un-
cultivated productions growing near the Vineyard, the fruit of
which might invite a resort of birds. Should you observe an extra-
ordinary resort of wasps in any quarter, and that they are destruc-
tive to the fruit, hang up phials of honeyed or sugared water in such
places, in which numbers of them will be caught and des-
troyed.

The ground between your vines must now be kept perfectly
free from weeds, and all the branches tied up neatly, in order to af-
ford the fruit the full advantage of air and sun, for its due perfec-
tion.

^

A TABLE,

[To face page 488.
Of the firogrcM qf Vegetationin Pennsylvania., com/iared with that of some of the famous Wine Countries of Eurofie. jlnd also exhibiting the results of various Meteorological observations.

Q^ The variety of Grape-vine particularly noticed herein, is the Munier, cotnmonly called Miller's Burgundy. It was cultivated at Spring-Mill, 11 3 4 miles in a direct line, N. >V. by N. from the city of Philadelphia, in
an open country exposure; and, of course, later in every stage of its vegetative progress, than if growing in a shehered and warmer situation.

48 50

50 17
50 51
•i^ 20

16 6

36 49
11 42

Deg. M.

0 8 W

77 33 E

78

79
93

OE
33 E
18 E

13 27 E

77 26 E
155 6E

1787

1788
1789
1790
1791
1792
1793
1794
1795
1796
1797
1798
1799
1800

GRAPE-VINES.

A

WEEP
OR BLEED.

5 Planted
^ the Fines.

15 March.

18 do.

15 do.

13 do.
7 do.

14 do.

18 do.

20 do.

28 do.

23 do.

20 do.

30 do.

9 do.

Medium result at
Spring-Mill. $
At Champagne, "^
Lcrrain, |

Paris, and part J>
of f

Burgundy.
Arras,
Brussels.
Stockholm.

Guadaloupe.

Algiers.
Pondicherry.

20 March.

20 March.

J

IN LEAF. IN FLOWER

14 May.

29 April.
22 do.
21 do.

25 May.

28 April.

6 May.

7 do.
10 do.

1 do.

8 do.
5 do.

29 April.

2 May.
16 Mav.

19 June.

14 do.

25 May.
17 June,
29 May.

26 do.

12 June.
24 do.

13 do.

2 do.
16 do.

7 do.

3 June.
16 June.

FRUIT
FORMED.

6 July.

1 do.

18 do.

2 do.
19' June.

19 do.

7 July.

20 do.

5 do.
27 do.

6 do.
30 June.

4 July.
10 July.

FRUIT
RIFE.

S "5 1

3 Sept.

25 Aug.

15 do.

2 Sept.

16 Aug.
20 do.
10 Sept.
14 do.

6 do.
1 do.

3 do.

26 Aug.

1 Sept.
1 Oct.

Medium Temperature of the whole year, 48^-*^.

do. do. 42-5."^.

Extreme heat, y^Yo- Extreme ^f cold, 63.^^. Medium]
temperature of the whole year, 84^*5-. ]

Medium temperature of the whole year, 65-/^.
do. do. 78^V•

Oeg. j\

53 6
51 8

54 3

53 8

54 3
54
54
53
52
51
51
52
52
52

53 1

12 June.

18 do.

15 do.

14 do.

12 do.
6 do.
6 do.

8 do.
10 do.

15 do.

13 do.
12 do.
10 do.

9 do.

12 June.

27 June.

9 July.

9 do.

6 do.
4 do.

2 do.
1 do.

31 June.

1 July.

4 do.

9 do.

8 do.

7 do.

3 do.
1 do.

4 July.
27 July.

13 July.

14 do.

10 do.

11 do.
6 do.
C do.

4 do.

5 do.
9 do.

14 do.

13 do.

II do.

6 do.
4 do.

9 July.
1 Aug.

22 July.

24 do.

20 do.

19 do.

14 do.

16 do.

12 do.
14 do.
18 do.
26 do.
22 do.
18 do.
14 do.

13 do.

18 July.
6 Aug.

TEMPERATURE OF EACH YEAR.

Pretty dry and very vegetative.
Moist, variable and cold.
Variable and tolerably warm.
Sweet, agreeable and moist.
Warm and variable.
Warm and moist.
Very hot, dry and abundant.
Variable, moist and warm.
Moist and warm.
Variable and cold.
Variable, cold and moist.
Moderate, variable and moist.
Moderate, dry and abundant.
Agreeably warm, moist, abundant.

5 Variable, moist, tolerably pleasant and
I vegetative. Prevalent wind, W. N. W.

Cold & moist. Prevalent winds, N. E. & S. W.

The most intense cold which we have had in Pennsylvania, between the first day of January 1787,
and the first of February 1806, according to a regular series of observations made at Sfiring-Mitt, every
day at sun-rise, and at two o'clock in the afternooti, the thermometer in the open air, sufficiently shaded,
about five feet from the surface of the friound, and out of the way of any extra reflexion of the sun's rays,
occasioned by walls, pavements, &c. tiappened on the 2d of February 1789; the mercury having fallen
that day, to 17^5^ degrees below zero or 0 of Fahrenheit; and the greatest heat during that period was in
July 1793, when the mercury rose to 104-/^^ degrees. July is, generally, oui' hotest month; and our great*
est degree of heat, on an average of several years, may be estimated at about 99^'^. January is, usually,
our coldest month, in the course of which, we may always expect a degree of cold, equal to 1 ^-^ below 0.
Attentive observations, at the above place, from the beginning of the year 1787, to the end of the year 1800, have given as a medium for one year, 4 days of Aurora Borealis, 16 of thunder, 7 of tempestuous
veather, 16 of snow, 249 of fair settled weather, and 73 of rain; and xheaverage quantity of water which had fallen annually, to be 39 inches, 9 lines, and AJ- of a line, English measure. Our atmosphere is
generally clear, and seldom so overcast, as to obstruct the rays of the sun, for four days successively.

The most intense cold which we experienced in the year 1804 was on the 25th of January, being 14-^^ below 0; the greatest heat, on the 4th of May and 9th of July, being on each of these days 95 degrees;
and the medium temperature of the whole year, resulting from observations made on every day thereof, was 55-j?^.

In the year 1805, on the 12th and 25th of January, the mercury fell tJ 2^^^ below 0; on the 2d and 22d of August, it rose to 100y\; and the medium temperature of the whole year, was 57^^ It is ob-
s«rvable that the medium heat of each of these two years, was much greater than of any year from 1787 to 1800, inclusive.

In Paris, the greatest summer heat is, generally, between 92^^„ and 95 degrees; the nriost intense cold, between 9-i. and 5; and the medium heat of the whole year, as established on the result of 70 years
otservations, SX-^^. But in the year 1716 the mercury had fallen there, to S/o below 0; in the year 1720, it rose to 104, and in 1743, to 99^%. The coldest month at that place, is January, and the hottest August.
At Hoorn, in Holland, in the year 1763, the mercury had fallen to 8 degrees, which is marked on some of the Dutch thermometers, as a remarkable degree of cold.

Ice or snow mixed with kitchen salt, produces a degree of cold equal torero or 0 of Fahrenheit. The point at which still water begins to freeze is 32, and is, consequently, called the freezing point. Rivers,
r running waters, freeze at 20-,%; cider and vinegar at 1 1/^, and unadulterated wine at 5 degrees. The medium temperature marked onBotanical thermometers, as best adapted for the Pine-Apple, is 7^-^js,

for Melon-beds 69-^^, and for an Orangery 57y'^.

The constant
most salutary temperatuic ui luc an./K ui p(:tLic;iii. « luum, is muugm. ^.\J uc (^ytt* *■ ***^ *»^aL ui luc nuntdii oiooa, in ttie opi
marked 98; and on several thermometers made in Holland and other placesin the north of Europe, 96, Heat of Hen's incubation 106 A
mercury in the barometer stands at 30 inches.

temperature of the cellar of the Observatory at Paris, is S+rV; which is generally considered to be the same, in every part of the globe, at the depth
jmperature of the sick or patient's room, is thought to be 7%%. The heat of the human blood, in the opinion of the Faculty of ^iedicine at Paris, i

of about 400 feet beneath the surface. The
Ity of Medicine at Paris, is 99y'o: on the English thermometers, it is
Fever heat 1 12. Rain or distilled water boils at 212 degrees, when the

Sept.] THE VINEYARD. 489

The method of making White Wines.

In the middle states, the general vintage will happen some time
in this month, earlier or later according to the season; it will,
therefore, be necessary to be provided with a sufficient number of
clean, sweet casks, new, if for white wines, to prevent their colour-
ing the liquor, but red wines may be put into any cask, without
injury, provided they are sweet and clean. You must also be pio-
vided with a vat for mashing the fruit in, and with a suitable con-
trivance for pressing out the juice.

Let it be observed that white wines are made from black as well as
trom white grapes; that the former, generally makes the strongest
and best wines, and that it is from the skin of tliC black grapes, when
fermented with the juice and fiulfi, that the red tinge is obtained.

When you perceive the grapes to be fit forgathering, which you
may judge of by the eye and taste, for when perfectly fit for eating,
they are then in the best condition for making wine; make choice
of cloudy weather, if such should occur, and early in the morning,
or very late in the afternoon, being provided with a sufficient
number of careful people, each furnished with a basket to hold the
fruit, and a crooked pointed knife or a pair of strong scissars to cut
off the bunches, let them begin their work, collecting only such
bunches as are open, ripe and perfectly sound, passing over all that
are green, not matured, dry, rotten or borsted. The stalk of every
bunch should be cutoff close to the fruit, and the bunches laid gently
into^ the basket without bruising or pressing them together.

The grapes "which are not sufficiently ripe, must be gathered at
another time, and treated in like manner.

As the grapes are collected, they must be immediately carried to
the press or vat, for the sooner they are pressed after gathering,
the finer and whiter the wine will be, and not only that, but it will
be more mellow, have a more exquisite flavour, and be greater in
quantity.

As your Vat is filling, the grapes are to be trampled and mash-
ed effectually by men, having their legs and feet previously washed
very clean; then let your machine for pressing fall down thereon,
which will force out the liquor plentifully, having a cask conve-
niently placed to leceive it.

When the liquor ceases to run from the press, raise it and cut up
the cake to pieces with steel shovels, and press it again, together
with all the loose grapes that happened to be scattered, and you will
have another plentiful running of good liquor.

This is called wine of the first cutting, which will be of a fine
colour and flavour, little inferior to the other, having a stronger
body and will keep longer than that of the first pressing.

The cutting and pressing is to be repeated, as often as you find
the liquor to run, and that from the second and third cutting will be
still good, of a sufficient body to keep for a length of time, and
with age will acquire mellowness and an improved flavour,

3Q

490 THE VINEYARD. [Sept.

The liquor which first runs from the grapes without any other
violence than the weight of the press, is called, le vin de gout, and
is fine, thin, and lively; of a pleasant flavour and relish, appears
sparkling in the glass, but has not body enough to keep a long time
without being mixed; but when incorporated with that obtained
from the first, second, and third cuttings, it makes then, what is
called the best Cham/mign.

The different pressings being mixed as you think proper, should be
immediately put into clean casks or hogsheads, placed in a warm
room or dry cellar, and filkd to within two inches of the bungholes,
which should be covered with pieces of cloth, laid loosely on to pre-
vent dirt from falling into the liquor.

It is to be observed that the finest wines ferment the soonest, the
rest in proportion to their goodness. The first cask that ferments,
take some of the froth which works therefrom, and put a little of it
into those casks which are backward in fermenting, which will great-
ly help their working.

The fermentation may continue for eight, ten, or twelve days, or
some time longer, according to the season, or quality of the Must,
but at whatever time you perceive it to cease, which you will see by
the froth not rising as before, fill your casks within about an inch or
or two of the top and bung them up tight, at the same time a small
vent-hole to carry off what may be thrown up by the fermentation's
not being quite ceased.

Continue to fill up your casks every three or four days, as before,
until the fermentation completely ceases, lest the foulness which
should work through the vent-holes, sink down for want of passage
and foul the wines. When all appearance of fermentation is over
fill the casks and stop the vent holes; however, open the latter
occasionally whilst there is any chance of the liquor continuing to
work. Observation and discretion will best guide on these occa-
sions.

About the middle of December, or so soon as the wines have
settled and become clear, draw them off into new, well bound casks,
previously well impregnated with salt and water, to extract the in-
jurious bitterness of the wood; after which, rinse the casks with fair
water, and an infusion of peach leaves or flowers, fill them quite
full and bung them as tight as possible. Repeat this racking off in
February, and likewise in the latter end of March; after which it
may remain so till bottled, disposed of, or used.

You must be particularly careful in racking off the wine, to draw
it as clear as possible from the lees, which will render it brisk,
lively, and sparkling in the glass; while the contrary, produces a
muddy dreg, or sediment, which makes the wine thick, dull, and
sometimes ropy; and besides, when drawn off foul, principles capa-
ble of maintaining fermentation would be introduced into the hogs-
head, which would be productive of the decomposition of the saccha-
rine part, and consequently, deprive the wine of its sweetness.

The lees after the wine is racked off, may be distilled for brandy,
and also the cakes of pulp and skins, after being pressed and then pro-
perly fermented.

Sept.] THE VINEYARD. 494

The method of making Red Wines.

Red wines must always be made from black grapes, for besides
the main pulp or core which is white in these, as well as the others,
there sticks to the inside of the skin a considerable body of rich
pulp of a deep red, more so in some kinds than others; this
gives the colour to the wine, when extracted by a due process of
fermentation. The colour of red wine is said to be heightened by
gathering the grapes in the heat of the .day, but this is productive
of a considerable deficiency in the quantity, though the quality may
be improved thereby.

Taking these considerations into view, your grapes are to be
collected with the same care as before directed in the making of
white wines. Having a sufficient quantity gathered, put them into
the vat, by degrees, treading and mashing them effectually as you
fill it, till quite full and the liquor floating above them; then work
the pulp and the liquor effectually together, leaving all the parts as
loose as possible, and so let it remain to ferment.

You ought to be provided with a cover for the top of the vat,
perforated with holes and made so as to easily slip down into it and
sink a little under the superfices of the liquor, to keep the skins
and pulpy parts from coming into contact with the air during the pro-
cess of fermentation; for when this is exposed, and it tends to swim
on the top, it very shortly becomes acid, and communicating this to
the liquor greatly injures it. As the skins give the colour to the
wine, nothing is better than the keeping of them down, without pres-
sing, during this process, for to believe that these and other dregs,
floating on the top, impede the evaporation of the spirit, is a thing
improbable, since it requires a good cork to stop it.

The moment of drawing ofl' the wine is of great importance, but
generally, however, without rule. It would be impossible to pre-
scribe a certain number of days for an operation liable to so many
vicissitudes, as much through the qualities of the grapes, as other cir-
cumstances. But as the great object of fermentation is the conver-
sion of the Must or expresed juice into wine, no drawing should take
place until that is effected. This moment which might appear un-
certain may be ascertained with tolerable precision by means of a
tin tube open at one end and perforated all over with holes of a
small size, that the grains or stones of the fruit may not pass through
when dipped into the vat; inside of this a small wooden cylinder
must be placed, upheld at its bottom by a cork plate that can work
up and down freely in the tube: this instrument is to be plunged
into the vat and kept there, the liquor getting in through the holes
of the tube, will raise the cork to its surface, to which cork the
wooden pin or cylinder is affixed. This latter, must be marked in
different heights, which will be seen to rise, as the vinous fermenta-
tion increases.

With this instrument the precise moment in which the wine
is to be drawn off may be established with great exactness; this is
generally done when the cylinder has attained to the highest and be-

492 THE VINEVARD. [Seft.

come stationary, the fermenting mass always swelling in bulk till
the vinous fermentation is completely accomplished, becoming
then stationary, previous to the commencement of an acetous fer-
mentation, and sinking with that, which if suffered without draw-
ing off the liquor, would ruin all. Berthollet and other authors
recommend, not to draw off the wine till you are able to perceive
the cylinder begin to lower a little.

When the liquor is drawn off into clean sweet casks, place them
in the cellar, fill them up within an inch or two of the top, and lay a
piece of leather with a small weight on it over each bung-hole
that may yield to a second fermentation, which generally takes
place. When the wine has settled or ceased to ferment, bung the
casks as close as possible, and the subsequent treatment is exactly
the same as directed for white wines.

In the making of red wines it is customary to mix with the
fruit, a small portion of what is called the Claret grape, to heighten
the colour, as the entire juice of this variety, is of a deep red.

It is also customary, and even necessary, with wine of a weak
body made from newly establislied Vineyards, or from worn out
old ones, to add two or three gallons of very nice brandy, and five
or six of old strong wine of the same colour, and as near the in-
tended flavour as possible, to every hogshead of 60 or 63 gallons of
the new wine; this is usually done after the fermentation is over.

In Spain and other parts of Europe, if the season proves wet, or
if they think the Must or expressed juice too replete with watery
panicles, they boil the whole, or part thereof, to evaporate the
superabundance; but this is done immediately after the juice is ex-
pressed, before the least fermentation takes place.

The evaporation ought not to be by an intense ebullition, and
although the lire may be ardent, the ebullition may be prevented by
pouring some cold Must into the kettle every time you perceive it
ready to boil.

The acid contained in the Must being capable of dissolving cop-
per and converting it into verdigris, you must, therefore, be
careful not to boil it in any kettle but such as is perfectly well
tinned, and some people, after cleaning the inside effectually, rub it
all over with a wollen rag dipped in sweet oil; if these precautions
are neglected, the dissolution of the copper will give a disagreea-
ble brahs taste to the wine, and perhaps render it pernicious to the
health of those who drink it.

The kettle should be large, wide in the mouth and flat in the bot-
tom, which will produce a saving in the consumption of fuel and
expedite the process.

The whole of the Must may be boiled, or if only a part thereof
be so reduced, this should be mixed with the remainder, and if
intended for white wine, put into casks, to undergo the process of
vinous fermentation, as before noticed. But if designed for red
wine, it must be poured into the vat, when of a temperate degree of
heat, on the plup and skins, there to undergo with them the neces-
sary degree of fermentation, to extract the colour and to form the
wine; after which it is to be treated as before directed; observing to

Sept.] THE VINEYARD. 493

take similar pains in pressing the juice out of the pulp, when suf-
ficiently fermented, as recommended under the article white wines,
but this will not be so difficult.

The antiquity of the practice of boiling the Mit-st maybe inferred
from the following story related by Mutardi-ben-Gasif, an Ara-
bian Autr or.

" Noah being come out of the Ark, he commanded each of his
sons to build a house: they afterwards busied themselves in sowing
and planting trees, for which they had found kernels and necessary
fruits in the Ark. Noah wanted the Fine only, nor could he ever
find it. Gabriel then gave him notice, that it was the Devil who
had stolen it away, because he had a right to it. Noah made him
come forward immediately, and said to him; Oh! thou accursed!
wherefore hast thou carried the Vine away from me? Because it
doth belong to me, quoth Satan. Share it betwixt you replies
Gabriel. I agree to that, continued Noah, and I'll let him have
the one fourth. That will not be sufficient for him replied Gabriel.
Weil! I am willing, said Noah, to take one half and he may have
the other. That is not still enough said Gabriel; he must have
two thirds of it and thou only one, and thy Mus( shall be boiled on
the fire, until it has consumed up the two thirds, the use of the re-
mainder shall be granted unto thee."

What a pity! that Mutardi-ben-Gasif did not imform us of
the progress made by his Satanic Majesty in the cultivation of
the Fine, to w horn Gabriel's favours had been extended so very
bountifully, even not to the injunction of boiling his Must.

General Remarks,

Ideal as well as intrinsic qualities, cause one kind of wine to
be preferred to another, so that one nation or country admires
what another does not like, or perhaps despises; and even this ideal
fancy is not uncommon among individuals of the same country,
town, or place; consequently, it will be well to know how to vary
the properties of wine according to fancy.

If a taste of wine slightly acid, similar to that of the Rhenish is
desired, some tartarous acid may be added to the Must.

If the wine is required sweet, the Must should be drained in such
a manner, that it may retain as little as possible of the lees, and let
it afterwards ferment of itself. Some sugared matter migiit be
joined with it.

If the wine should be wanted delicate and of a light colour, the
Must should not be suffered to have a long action on the lees,
from which it takes principics that augment the fermentation, and
dissolve in consequence the mucilaginous parts, together with the
colouring matter.

Should a strong wine of good body be preferred, the Must
ought to be suffered to remain the longer on the dregs, in case
the grapes do not afford it of sufficient strengtl). Or the boiling oi
the Must in the manner before observed, will accomplish this.

494 THE VINEYARP. [Sept.

If besides it be desired to have a heady, or intoxicating wine, add
some tartar and sugarded matter to the Must, which will produce a
greater portion of spirit.

If the wine be required to have a great deal of body, add, after
the ceasing of the fermentation, a fre^h sugared matter, such as
strong AJust deprived of its tartar.

It has been suggested to me, that exposing the casks of weak
wine to the winter frost, till tlie watry particles contained in the
liquor are converted into ice, and then drawing off the pure wine,
would be the best method of giving it a sufficient body. If this
answers the end, and it is very probable it may, as pure wine
requires a much greater degree of cold to freeze it than water, the
middle and eastern states of the Union possess an advantage, in that
respect, over most of the wine countries of Europe, as the cold of
their winters is not sufficiently intense to answer that end.

Should the wine be required with much, little, or no colour, let
it be remembered that this quality resides exclusively in the skin
of the fruit, so that you may conduct the process according to your
desire.

Different flavours and fragrancies are communicated by the dif-
ferent kinds of grapes, and also from other ingredients; ihe odour
of Muscadel, for example, is given with the flowers of Elder and
other herbs; some use peach flowers and consider them to commu-
nicate an agreeable flavour to wine.

The absolute and essential qualities in wine are to have no de-
fect, nor be liable easily to contract any, to be able to keep long, and
bear transportation.

An essential article in the preservation of wine is to keep the
air totally excluded out of the vessels, for which purpose Davan-
zATi advises, " to take off the rind of a piece of dried bacon, and
leave a little fat adhering to it in the centre, after that make use of
it in the manner of a bung, and cram it in with might, that the
cask may be well stopped up: extend out the rind afterwards over
the cask, after having done it over with ashes; then cover it
over again with very dry ashes: and that they may not fall off, nail a
piece of stuff over the same. The cask being then sufficiently
shut up, the air will not penetrate into it, and the wine cannot change
its nature."

I mention this to show the necessity of the casks being kept air
tight and bunged effectually, not doubting but many other methods
may be used equally effectual, perhaps much more so, than that
recommended by Davanzati.

A wine cellar should be dry, so deep under ground as that the
temperature of its heat may be nearly the same winter and sum-
mer: it should be at a distance from streets, high-ways, workshops,
sewers and necessaries; if arched over, the better.

Of all other methods wine is best preserved in bottles, well
corked and sealed; but this should not be done till it is clear and fine,
and all fermentation subsided.

Tartar and the lees of wine, are the principles of its destruction,
and none but sweet wines can bear the existence of them; by often
drawing it off in order to purge it of these, there is too great a

Sept.] THE VINEYARD. 495

superfices exposed to the action of the air/which greatly injures
the wine.

To obviate this evil, the people of Champagne and other wine
countries, make use of the following expedient, viz. To a leather
pipe from four to six feet in length and two inches in diameter are
adapted, at each end, wooden pipes nine or ten inches in length,
which decrease in diameter towards the ends, and are fastened to
the leather pipes by means of a piece of twine. The bung of the
cask intended to be filled is taken out and one of the pipes put
into it. A good cock is fixed in the cask to be emptied; two or
three inches from the bottom, and in this is inserted the extremity
of the other pipe. A pair of bellows of two feet long, including the
handles, and ten inches in diameter, with a wooden pipe, to the
extremity of which is fixed a small leather valve to prevent the air
from rushing out when the bellows are opened, is introduced
through a hole made in the bung and fitted exactly thereto. When
the bellows are worked, the pressure exercised on the wine, obliges
it to issue from the cask and to ascend and pass through the leather
pipe into the other cask. When the pipe is once filled, the wine
will pass through without the application of any further force till
each cask is half full, but then by working the bellows the artificial
pressure of the air on the surface of the wine, will oblige the re-
mainder to pass off, without any agitation or shaking. When a
hissing is heard at the cock, it is a sign that all the wine has passed.
This operation may be performed in another manner, without the
assistance of a cock, by making one of the wooden pipes so long as
to reach within five or six inches of the bottom, and introducing it
through the bung, together with the pipe of the bellows, which when
worked, will force up the liquor as before.

Clarification of Wines.

When wines have been racked off three or four times, in the
preceding manner, they may be fined or clarified as follows. For
white wines, mix a quart of new milk and about an ounce of salt,
with two or three quarts of wine and pour it into the cask, then
with a strong lath or flat stick, stir the wine in the cask very ivell^
observing not to put the stick to the bottom, least you disturb the
lees or sediment. This will be sufficient for sixty-three gallons.

Some for this purpose use a solution of isinglass, about the
quantity of an ounce to every fifty gallons of wine; but Chaptal
observes, " the use of this substance is dreaded in warm climates,
and its place is supplied by whites of eggs: ten or twelve are suf-
ficient for half a muid, or seventy-two gallons English. They should
be well beaten up, and mixed with a pint of new milk."

For a hogshead of red wine, beat up effectually the whites of ten
or VfieXsQ fresh eggs, and incorporate this well with three or four
quarts of wine, which pour into the cask, stirring it as above direct-
ed. In five or six days after, the wines will be fit to draw off for
bottling, Sec.

496 THE VINEYARD. [Sept,

Methods of curing Raisins.

R. Twiss, Esq. says, in his travels through Portugal and Spain,
page 334, " Raisins are of two sorts; those which are called sun-
raisins are made thus: when the grapes are almosc ripe, the stalk
is half cut through, so that the sap, may not penetrate farther, but
yet the bunch of grapes may remain suspended by the stalk; the
sun by darting on them candies them, and when they are dry they
are packed up in boxes."

" The second sort is made after this manner; when the vines
are produced the tendrils or claspers are preserved till the time of
vintage, a great fire is made, when the trendrils are burned, and
in the ley made of their ashes, the newly gathered grapes are dipt,
after which they are exposed to the sun to dry, which renders them
fit for use."

Mr. Swinburn in his travels through Spain informs us, that the
raisins dried on the coast of Valencia are dipt in a ley of wine and
ashes.

Preserving Grapes fresh for winter use.

Grapes may be kept fresh a long time by the following method:
before the autumn frosts have killed the leaves, let the bunch with
the shoot be carefully cut off the vine; then let the lower end of the
shoot be put into a bottle filled with water; which hang up with the
shoot and branch in a warm room, or in a Green-house.

The bottle should be filled with fresh clear water every ten or
twelve days, and at the same time a thin paring should be cut off
the bottom of the shoot, whereby the pores will be made to imbibe
the water with greater facility.

By this method grapes may be kept fresh and good till the mid-
dle of February.

Or let the grapes hang on the vines as long as they will continue
on with safety; the late ripening kinds will be best for this purpose,
provided they are of good flavour and have attained full maturity.
When the frosts begin to set in sharp then gather them. Where
there are several bunches on one branch cut it off, leaving about six
inches in length, or more, of the wood, according to the distance
between the bunches, and a little on the outside of the fruit at each
end; seal both ends of the branch with some common sealing wax,
or with such as wine merchants use for sealing their bottles with;
then hang them across a line in a dry room, which is to be kept
perfectly free from frost, taking care to clip out with a pair of scis-
sars, any of the berries that begin to decay or become mouldy, which
if left would taint the others. In this way grapes may be kept fresh
a long time: if they are cut before the bunches are very ripe, they
will keep longer, but their flavour will not be so fine.

Having plenty of fresh grapes in winter makes a great addition
to the table, and if properly kept they will be of a much superior
flavour to the imported grapes.

Sept.] THE NURSERY. 497

Grapes may also be kept in jars; every bunch when well aired
and perfectly dry, should be wrapped up loosely in soft white paper,
laid in layers, and each layer covered with bran, which should
be perfectly well dried before it is used: first lay a little of the dry
bran in the bottom of the jar, then a layer of the wrapped up grapes,
and so on, a layer of bran and a layer of grapes alternately, till you
have filled the jar; then shake it gently and fill it to the top with
bran: cover the top with paper, and over this a piece of bladder
doubled, which tie firmly round to exclude the air: then put on
the top or cover of the jar, observing that it fits as close as possible.
These jars should be kept in a room where they will not be exposed
to damps, frosts, or too much heat.

In order to preserve a few of your finest bunches for this purpose,
from the depredations of birds and insects, let some small bags made
of thin gauze or crape be drawn over them, or rather let the bunches
be put into the bags; the sun and air will have free access through
the crape, and when wet it will dry very soon.

THE NURSERY.

Budding or Inoculating.

Continue to inoculate peaches, nectarines, almonds and ap-
ples; the three former will succeed very well if done any time
before the middle of the month; and even later in some seasons,
especially in the middle and eastern states; the budding of apples
should be finished as early in the month as possible; but these, or
any other kinds, may be inoculated as late as you find the bark to
separate freely from the stock.

Untie the bandages of such plants as have been budded three or
four weeks; this must not be neglected, for the swelling growth of
the stocks, would cause the bandages to sink into the bark, which
would injure both stocks and buds.

Prepare ground for planting.

If omitted in August, it will be very proper to embrace every lei-
sure moment at this time, to dig and prepare all vacant quarters
and borders, in which you intended to plant fruit-tree stocks, or trees
or shrubs of any kind, in October or November; this will forward
your business, and, not only that, but the ground will be mellowed
and moistened by the rain, which will be of much advantage in ex=
citing the plants to produce new fibres before winter,

3 R

49S THE NURSERY. [Seft,

Transplanting.

When absolute necessity requires it, and only in that case, you
may in the last week of this month remove and transplant ever-
greens, and such deciduous trees and shrubs as are much declined
in leaf, but, should the season prove dry, these must be carefully and
frequently watered, for a month or five weeks after, not giving too
much at a time, nor too frequently, lest an over quantity should rot
tlie young fibres as they are produced.

Propagating Trees and Shrubs by Cuttings and Layers.

In the last week of this month you may begin to propagate goose-
berries, currants, honeysuckles, and several other hardy trees and
shrubs, by cuttings; but it will be necessary, at this time, to plant
them in a shady border: however, I would not advise this to be done
before Ociober, except in cases of necessity; for wood imperfectly
ripened, when cut oft' and planted in this month, seldom can bear
the power of the sun in our climates, unless it is, for some time after,
covered and protected therefrom.

The general propagation by layers may, with great propriety, be
commenced towards the latter end of this month. For the method
see page 287.

Fruit Stones.

Peach, plumb, and cherry stones, &c. may now be sown as direct-
ed in page 452, or they may be preserved as recommended in page
466 till October, November, or February; but in the southern states
they should be sown in or before January, if possible.

Trimming Pines and Firs, (§*c.

Where firs, pines, and other resinous trees, are grown so rude as
to require some ot their branches to be cut off, this is the best time
in the year for so doing; now they are not subject to weep
as in the spring, and there will be time for their wounds to
harden and partly heal before winter. Walnut-trees and maples
should also be trimmed at this season, where necessary, for the
same reason.

, General care of young JSTtirsery -Plants.

Thoroughly clean from weeds all the seed-beds and young plan-
tations of trees, shrubs, &c. this must be done occasionally by
hand and hoe, taking opportunity of dry days when you work with
the hoe; and weeding will be easier performed when the ground is
moist.

Continue to give water, in dry weather, to all the plants in pots
or boxes, and also to new plantations of flowers, &c.

Sept.] THE PLEASURE -GARDEN. 49^9

Towards the lattfer end of the month begin to pot off singly,
such young tender plants as were raised from seed ihis year, and
that stand too close together where growing. These should be
immediate placed in the shade for about three weeks till ntvvly
rooted, after which place tliem in a warm exposure till the ap-
proach of frost, when they must be removed into the Green-house
or placed under the protection of frames and glasses, &c.

THE PLEASURE, OR FLOWER-GARDEN.

Carnations and Pinks.

Your late carnation and pink layers, must now be taken off, as
soon as they are well rooted, and be treated as directed in July and
August; the earlier in ihe month that you can do this, the better
will the plants be rooted before winter.

Towards the end of the month you may transplant from the
nursery-beds, the seedling pinks and carnations, into such beds and
borders as you intend them to flower in; observing to lake each
plant up with a ball of earth, and to give it some water when newly
planted.

»Suriculas.

The auricula plants still require due attention, but particularly
those shifted last month; they must yet be kept in the shade and
moderately watered, as often as the earth appears rather dry, to
promote a free growth and a good supply of new roots before
winter.

If the shifting had been neglected last month it may yet be done^
but ihe beginning of August is a more eligible period.

Particular care must now be taken to keep the auricula seedlings,
as well as the old plants, free from decayed leaves and weeds of
of every kind, to keep the earth about them in a moderate state of
moisture, that the plants may grow freely and obtain strength before
winter.

Sowing Seeds of Bulbous-rooted Flowers.

This will be a very proper time to sow the seeds of Tulips,
Hyacinths, and of every other kind of bulbous-rooted flowers, that
have perfected seed in the preceding part of the season. These
seeds should be sown separately, in boxes filled with good sound
garden mould, mixed with a small portion of sand, or with Hyacinth

500 '^HE PLEASURE, OR [Sefi.

or' Tulip compost; sow the seeds pretty thick and cover them about
half an inch deep. The depth of earth in each box should be at
least one foot, the bottoms of the boxes should be perforated with
holes, each about an inch in diameter, and covered with shells, in
order that any extra moisture may drain off thereby. The boxes
are then to be placed in a warm exposure, and will require no
water, or any other attention than the keeping of them perfectly
free from weeds, and sliglitly protecting them from frost, till the
spring following, when the plants will appear. Early in May,
place the boxes in the shade, but not under the dropping or shade
of trees, and, in very dry weather, give the plants a small portion of
water; but this should be administered sparingly, lest it should rot
the young bulbs. In June when the leaves are decayed sift half
an inch of fresh earth over that in the boxes, and on the approach
of winter place them again in a warm exposure, where you can
give them some slight protection from severe frost. Continue
the same treatment winter and summer, till the month of June or
July in the third year; the roots may then be taken up, dried and
treated in the same manner as directed for large bulbs or offsets in
pages 391 and 392: a few of the strongest roots will flower the
fourth year, about one half may be expected to flower the fifth, but
the sixth year every healthy root will exhibit its bloom; and then
the hopes and expectations of the cultivator will be realized or
disappointed. He may, however, think himself fortunate, if one
half of the plants that first appeared, are in existence at this period,
and if he can at last find one Tulip or Hyacinth in five hundred de-
serving a name, or a place in a good collection, he may rest perfect-
ly content.

The Tulips raised from seed, will each consist of one plain colour,
on a white, dark, or yellow bottom; the period of their breaking into
different stripes is very uncertain, so much so, that it is not uncom-
mon to wait ten or twenty years without the desired success, al-
though it sometimes happens, fortunately, to take place the first,
second, or third year after their blooming; where the collection of
breeders is numerous (a name given to those self coloured Tulips)
there may be reasonable expectations of procuring one or two
valuable flowers annually: a poor dry soil is most likely to produce
these effects; and a single instance has occurred where forty
breeders out of fifty became broken or variegated in one season, in
a situation of this description.

New sorts of breeders are procured from seed, but such only as
have tall strong stems, with large well formed cups, and clear in
the bottom, are worth cultivating.

Mjte. The various kinds of lender bulbous-rooted flowering
plants, may be propagated as above directed, but the boxes in
which the seedlings grow, must be placed in a Green-house or
Hot-house in winter, according to the respective necessities of the
various kinds.

Sept.] FLOWER-GARDEN. 50 i

Trmisplant Perennial and Biennial Flower Roots. '

The latter end of this month is a very proper period for trans-
planting the various kinds of seedlings, perennial and biennial flow-
ers, out of the flower-nursery into the beds, borders, and pleasure
grounds, where they are designed to bloom. You may likewise
slip and plant out double catchfly, pinks, London pride, lychni-
deas, Dracocephalums, sweet-william, thrift, scarlet-lychnis, Virgi-
nian spiderwort, double rose-campion, double rocket, virginian lung-
wort, creeping Greek valerian, and every other kind of hardy
fibrous-rooted perennials that are past bloom.

Cut down the stalks of such flowers as are decayed, and where
they are not to be transplanted, dig the ground about them and add
some rotten dung or fresh earth to the borders, which will greatly
strengthen their roots.

This will also be a very good time to collect from the fields,
swamps, and woods, some of the favourites of the Most-High,
which he has decorated with suoh a profusion of lustre and beauty,
that, " Solomoii in all his Glory" was not equal to. These are to be
be taken up and treated as directed in page 469.

The various kinds of tuberous-rooted flowering-plants may now
be propagated by slipping or parting their roots, such as Poeonias,
Spiraea Filipendula, flag-Irises, Helleborus hyemalis or winter
aconite, &c. This last should have its roots planted in small
clusters; for small solitary flowers scattered about the borders, are
scarcely seen at a distance, but when these, snowdrops, crocuses,
and dwarf Persian Lises, are alternately planted in bunches, they
will have a very good eff'ect, as they flower at the same time and
are much of a size. You may also divide and transplant the roots
of the Helleborus niger, or Christmas rose, Helicborus viridis, or
green Hellebore, Helleborus ranunculinus, and H. foetidus, stinking
Hellebore, or Bear's-foot. The Helleborus lividus, purple, or
great three flowered black Hellebore, is a very desirable plant; it is
usual to keep this in the Green-house, where it will flower in
February and continue a long time in bloom. It may now be pro-
pagated in like manner, as the other species.

Tfie Fair Maids of France.

The double flowering variety of the Ranunculus aconitif alius ,
Aconite -leaved Crowfoot, or Fair Maids of France, is greatly es-
teemed for the delicate beauty of its numerous flowers. It is per-
fectly hardy, and grows, generally, from a foot and a half to two
feet high, the stalks branching out at top into several divisions, at
each of which there is one leaf of the same shape of the root leaves,
divided into five lanceolate lobes each; the four side-lobes are upon
foot-stalks coming from the side of the principal stalk, and the
middle one terminates it; they are deeply serrate, and have seve-
ral longitudinal veins. The flowers are pure white, very double,
each standing upon a single foot-stalk. The root is perennial and

502 '^^^^ PLEASURE, OR [Sept.

composed of many strong; fleshy fibres, formed like that of the
Jianunculus asiaticus or garden ranunculus, and increasing in the
same manner. It is a native of the Alps of Europe, and is very
scarce at present in America,

This beautiful plant flowers generally in the latter end of May
and June, and may be propagated by taking up the roots now, or at
any time after the stems decay, separating the offsets, taking care,
at the same time, to preserve the crown of each unhurt, and plant-
ing them in any good garden earth. Their thick fibres are to be
spread around, and the upper part of each root is to be covered
about two inches deep, if planted in beds or borders, but if in pots,
one inch will be sufficient; raise the earth in the centre of the pot,
place the root thereon, spreading the fibres around and downward,
then fill in the earth and cover as above. The pots will require
some protection and but very little water during winter, for no
root or plant will bear as much frost when in pots, as if planted in
the open ground. This plant looks beautiful in rooms and windows,
when in flower, as well as in borders and beds.

Ranunculuses and Anemones.

In the last week or ten days of this month you should plant a few-
beds of ranunculuses and anemones, for an early bloom, as directed
in October; but I would not recommend the general planting of
those roots sooner than next month; however, it will be proper
at this time to begin to prepare the beds, &c. as there advised.

Plcmting various kinds of Bulbous Roots.

Spring crocuses, snovvdrops, fritillaries, crown-imperials, dens-
canises, dwarf Persian, English and Spanish bulbous Irises, scarlet
martagons, white, superb, Canada, and red lilies, and all other kinds
of bulbs that do not agree with being kept long out of ground,
should now be planted if possible: for although these roots may be
kept up much longer if preserved from the air, in dry sand, saw
dust, dry chaff" or the like, yet they would not flower near so well
next season, as if planted in due time.

Common tulips, hyacinths, narcissus, &c. may now be planted
in the borders of the pleasure grounds, in small clumps of four or
five in a place, covering the roots about four inches deep, if the
soil be dry and light; if stiff" and heavy, three inches will be suffi-
cient; but the latter kind of soil should not be chosen for this
purpose if possible: where the borders are naturally inclined to
clay, proper earth should be brought on barrows, and holes made
in the spots where you intend planting, about a foot in diameter,
and at least, the same in depth, which fill with the good soil and
plant the roots therein, covering as above.

Van Thol and other early tulips, may now be planted in a warm
soil and exposure, for aa early spring bloom.

S6PT.] FLOWER-GARDEN. 503

Flower-Borders and Shrubberies.

Towards the latter end of this month, begin to dig the vacant
beds and borders, where the plants are mostly declined in their
flowering, to prepare them for the I'eception of any plants or roots,
to kill weeds, and to give a neat and becoming appearance to the
whole; if they require it, add some fresh earth or very rotten
dung to them, and in the planting of flowers irj borders along the
principal walks, observe to dispose of them in such a manner, as
that there may be a regular succession of flowers throughout the
season in the different parts, planting the low growing kinds in front
and the taller more remote from the walks.

Continue to keep the general flower borders, clumps, and other
similar districts very clean, and in neat order, and go round all the
beds, borders, and shrubbery compartments once a week, to cut
down decayed flower stems, for such detract much from the beauty
of the plants in flower, as well as from that of the general appear-
ance.

Regulate disorderly growths, tie up straggling branches, and
pick off" all decayed leaves, likewise prune or cut away any branch-
es or twigs that appear in a mouldy or declining state, on any of the
flowering plants or shrubs.

Box Edgings.

Clip box edgings where it was omitted in the two former months,
but let this be done as soon now as possible, that the box may have
time to grow a little and put on a fresh appearanee before winter;
it will be best to do this in Avet or cloudy weather, if such should
happen in due time.

In the last week of this month, should the season prove moist,
you may begin to plant box edgings where wanted, as directed in
page 302, but if the weather sets in dry and hot immediately after,
it will be necessary to shade them with boards, 8tc. for a month;
about that period they will be newly rooted, and appear neat all
winter. However, should the weather not prove favourable in this
month, it would be more adviseable to defer that work till the early
part of October.

If you have low bunches of dwarf box, that the off'sets are
generally rooted, you need be under no apprehension of their strik-
ing fresh root and growing freely at this time, if kept regularly
watered, but where you form edgings of box cuttings, these will
require to be carefully shaded from the sun, at least for a month
after, if planted at this season.

Clip Hedges.

Such hedges as have not been trimmed in the preceding month,
should be clipped in the early part of this, before the shootb get hard.

In clipping hedges, always take particular care to have the
shears in perfect good order, that you may be able to make neat and

504 THE PLEASURE, OR [Seit.

expeditious work. Let the sides of the full grown hedges be al-
ways clipped in, nearly to the former year's cut, and as even and
straight as possible; for it looks awkward and not workman like,
to see the sides of hedges, especially garden hedges, waved and
uneven; and always observe to clip a hedge in such a way as to
slope in a narroiving manner nfiivards, that the top may be a little
narrower than the bottom, and at the same lime as even and level as
possible.

In clipping young hedges under training, be cautious not to cut
them too close above, but clip the top off regularly to retard the
luxuriant shoots, and cause them to branch out and thicken the
hedge, and also to give the moderate growths an equal advantage of
air and room to advance as equally as possible; cut the sides with
similar cai'e but closer, and always sloping inwards or narrowing
towards the top; for by thus exposing the sides and bottom of the
hedge to the influence of the air, rain and dews, all parts are
equally encouraged in growth, and the whole becomes close and
well furnished, but when the top overhangs the bottom, the lower
branches, for want of those advantages, decay, and the hedge be
comes thin below and, consequently, much more unfit to answer the
end than if judiciously trained.

Grass and Gravel Walks, and Laivns.

Continue to treat your grass and gravel walks, and lawns as di-
rected in page 399, and let the rough edges of all grass lawns, &c.
adjoining gravel walks, and principal borders, be cut close and neat,
with a very sharp edging. iron, &c, which will give an additional
neatness, and becoming appearance to the whole.

Preparing for Planting.

Prepare now, at all leisure hours, the different beds, borders,
and composts, for your plantations of choice tulips, hyacinths, ane-
mones, ranunculuses, and other flower-roots, which are to be plant-
ed next month ; also for the various flowering shrubs, &c. that
the hurry of business may not press upon you too much at once,
and that you may be the better able to do every thing in its proper
season.

Transplanting Evergreens.

In the last week of this month, should necessity require, you may
transplant such evergreens, as seem to have ceased growing, pro-
vided you can remove them with balls of earth, or that they are to
be planted in shaded places; but in either case it will be necessary
to water them, occasionally, in dry weather, for three or four weeks
after planting; however, if the season proves hot and dry, it will be
better to defer that work till October.

Sept.] FLOWER-GARDEN. 505

The Vallisneria Americana.

Some account of the Vallisneria jimericana, may not prove unaccep-
table to the curious, the more especially as it tends to cast some
light on the " loves" and sexes of plants.

This extraordinary vegetable production grows in the river Dela-
ware not far from Philadelphia, and may, with care, be introduced
by means of seeds or roots, into rivers, ponds, and canals. Sec.
Another species, the S/iiralis, is found in the East Indies, in Norway,
and various parts of Italy. The American species, flowers gene-
rally in the latter pan of August or in September.

The Vallianeria belongs to the Class Dioecioj and Order Diandriay
bearing male and female flowers on separate plants. The female
plant produces long, tubular, purple flowers, which stand singly on
the top of a stalk, curiously twisted in the form of a screw, which is
common to both sfiecies; when the flowers are about to expand,
this screw or spiral stalk relaxes more or less according to the
depth of the water, and suffers the flowers to rise up to the surface,
where they float, in expectation of a visit from their husbands.

The flowers of the male plant are very numerous, small, and of a
white colour; they are contained within a Spatha or sheath, which
stands on a short foot-stalk, that never rises to the top of the water;
the flowers being arrived at maturity, and fired with love, they
burst open the Spatha in which they are contained, detach them-
selves from the Receptacle to which they are fixed, and rise up to
the surface of the water, where they float about, as if in search of
their mates, and suddenly, with a kind of elasticity, open themselves
and discharge their Pollen, which being conveyed to the female
flowers growing near them, or scattered thereon, impregnates the
seeds contained within the Germen.

The Pollen being discharged on the Stigma, the embryo seeds are
impregnated; but how this impregnation is eff'ected, it is difficult to
say; indeed while the affair of impregnation in animals is involved
in so much obscurity, we can scarcely expect to discover more of
it in vegetables.

It has been the opinion of some of the eaiiy writers on the sexes
of plants, that the Pollen in substance passed through the Style, and
so impregnated the seeds in the Ovary; but this is a very irrational
supposition, for it is not probable that the Pollen, which is nothing
more than a case for the true sperm, should pass through a part
which has every appearance of being impervious to it.

Whether the sperm itself be conveyed through the Style, is per-
haps what never will with certainly be determined.

The hint of there being diff'erent sexes in plants, seems first to
have been taken from the Dioecia class, or such as produce (male)
flowers with Stamina on one plant, and (female) flowers with Pis-
tilla on another.

" If the dust of the branch of a male Palm Tree, (says Aristotle)
be suspended over the female, the fruit of the latter will quickly
ripen; and if the female dust be carried along by the wind, and dis-
persed upon the female, the same eff'ect will follow, as if a branch
of the male had been suspended over it."

3S

506 THE GREEN-HOUSE. [Seft.

« Naturalists, (says Pliny) admit of distinction of sex not only in
trees, but in herbs, and all plants; yet this is no where more ob-
servable than in Palms, the females of which never propagate but
when they are fecundated by the dust of the male."

J^ote. Those who wish to become scientifically acquainted with
the Linnaan, or sexual system of plants, will he i^reatly edified by
consulting that very valuable work, the *' Elements of Botany,"
published in 1803, by the late Benjamin Smith Bahton, M. p. Pro-
fessor of Materia Medica, Natural History, and Botany, in the Uni-
versity of Pennsylvania.

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

In the eaatern states^ between the fifteenth and latter end of this
month, accordinj? to local situations, the nights will be gel'ing
cold, and consequently the more tender kinds of Green-honse plants
must be taken in, before they change their colour by too mnch cold,
leaving the hardy sorts out as long as ihere is no danger of their
being attacked by frost.

Some people are desirous to keep out their plants as long as
possible, this is a very right, but it ought not to be extended to too
hazardous a period, for one n];^hi.'s frost would cause the leaves to
lose their fine green colour, which perhaps might not be restored
during the whole winter; and if any way severe, serious injury might
be sustained

If the windows and doors are kept open, day and night, as long as
there is safety in so doing, the plants will be nearly as well off as if
in the open air, and no danger is encountered: the mere differ-
ence of five or six days in the taking in of the plants will insure
safety; but on the oiher hand, it is not right to be too precipitate in
housing them, before the common appearance of the weather indi-
cates the necessity.

For further particulars respecting liie housing of the plants, see
next month, which is the period for doing that business in the mid-
dle states.

In the vdddle and other states, where frosts do not frequently ap-
pear belore the middle of October, the plants are to be taken care
of as directed in the preceding njonths; observing to decrease
the usual supply of water, in proportion to <.he moistness and
coldness of the weather, for the administering of it too copiously,
when there is not a necessity, would be very injurious And let it
be particularly observed, that as soon as the cold nights set in, which
may be about the middle of this n^onth, or sooner, the water must be
given to the plants in the morning, for if given late in the afternooni

Sept.] THE GREEN-HOUSE. 507

as in the preceding months, the chill occasioned by it and the cold-
ness of the nights, would change the colour of the foliage, from a
fine green to a yellowish cast, whereby much of their beauty would
be lost, as well as the plants themselves in some degree injured.

If any are in want of larger pots or tubs, they may be shifted
in the beginning of this month, but on no account defer it later,
that the plants may have time to strike some fresh roots before winter.
And if, in consequence of a bad state of health, any had been plant-
ed in baskets in the borders as recommended in page 427, they
must, early in this month, be taken up and re-potted; observing to
take them up carefully, to trim off the wide extended roots, cut the
baskets away, and plant them with the entire balls in the pots or
tubs destined for their reception; after which give them water and
place them in some shady warm situation, till the time for housing
them.

Any young Green house plants, raised this or last year from
seeds, slips, cuttings, or suckers, and that are growing too close
together in pots, &c. should, if well rooted, be transplanted in the
early part of this month into pots, singly, and be immediately-
watered and placed in the shade for a week or two; or of such as
are very small, two, three, or more, may be planted in a pot, and
treated in like manner. But those that have been raised from slips
or cuttings and that are not well rooted, and consequently not much
advanced in top growth, should be suffered to remain in their pre-
sent pots till spring or autumn next.

Any Green-house plants propagated in the open ground, or in
beds during the course of the summer, should be taken up in
the first week of this month, with balls of earth, potted and treated
as above.

About the middle of this month you should plant your Ixiasj
Walchendorfias, Oxalises, Gladioluses, Watsonias, Cyanellas,
Babianas, Tritonias, Massonias, Melasphoerulas, Antholizas, Mo-
reas, Lapeyrousias, Lachenalias, iVIelanthiums, Geissorhizas, with
all the other different kinds of the more tender bulbs, either obtain-
ed from the Cape of Good Hope, or elsewhere; especially such of
them as shew the least disposition to produce fibres from the rootsj
for if kept out of the ground much longer, after this appearance^
they would be greatly injured thereby.

The proper compost for the generality of the above kinds, is one
half rich fresh loam, one half bog earth, or earth of rotten leaves, and
a small portion of drift or river sand.

They are to be planted in pots, from one to five roots in each,
a greater number if very small, and covered about an inch deep; the
pots are then to be placed in the Green-House windows and to get
but very little water till the foliage appear above ground, and even
after, it is to be but sparingly administered, for too much moistur*
would infallibly rot the bulbs.

Towards the end of the month take into the Green-house all your
iucculent and other tender plants, such as Stapelias, Cactuses,
Aloes, Cycas revoluta, Agaves, &c. and place them in front near
the windows where they can have the benefit of the sun and air.^

508 THE HOT-HOUSE. [Sept.

Collect your Geraniums, at the same time, and all other plants
that tend to succulency, and arrange them in front of the Green-
house, there to remain till it is found necessary to take them in. Sec
next month.

THE HOT-HOUSE.

Repairing the Lights and cleaning the House.

If the roof-lights had in the course of the summer been taken
oflf any of the Hot-house departments, they should be replaced
early in the month, and all the glass-work of the entire house or
houses put in the best possible repair. Examine the wood-work
and see that all is tight and in good condition. If new painting of
the timbers, sashes or any other parts is necessary, and that it had
not been done in the preceding months, it should be no longer ne-
glected.

Indeed it would be of considerable advantage at this time, pre-
vious to the taking in of the plants, to give a complete and tho-
rough cleaning, painting, and white washing to the entire house;
and if infested with insects, to fumigate it effectually; and also to
wash the entire of the inside with a very strong solution of corrosive
sublimate, and if thought necessary, to clean away every morsel
of old bark out of the pits, carry it off to a considerable distance
and replace it with fresh tan. Any plants remaining in this de-
partment, may be removed into the Green-hoHse while this work is
going on, and these should be effectually washed and cleaned, if
infested with insects, before their being replaced.

This cleansing, fumigating, 8cc. will destroy most, if not all, of
the lurking insects, which have taken shelter in the various parts
of the house, and which, by and by, if not destroyed would sally
forth and make a formidable and, perhaps, destructive attack upon
your plants; every timely precaution ought to be taken to keep the
house clean and sweet, and the plants free from vermin.

Taking in the Plants.

The more tender kinds of Hot-house exotics which a,re arranged
out of doors, should, in (he middle states, be taken into the Green-
house about the tenth of this month, and the others successively,
according to their respective degrees of tenderness, so that the
■whole collection may be in by the eighteenth or twentieth thereof,
or a few days earlier should the weather happen to be cold. Here
they are to remain, closing the windows at night and giving them all
the air possible on warm and mild days, till towards the end of the
month, or sooner if you have the bark-pit renewed, and the Hot-
house ready for their reception.

StPT.] THE HOT-HOUSE. 509

When you have every thing in readiness, dress the plants, by
picking off all decayed leaves, and especially those which are annoy-
ed with insects, cut away all awkward and ill placed branches, and
give each pot a fresh top dressing of suitable compost, then plunge
the whole to their rims in the bark-pit, placing the smallest in front
and the tallest behind. The succulent sorts and such as you have
not room for in the pit, may be set on shelves arranged over the
flues, &c.

Now the plants being in order and placed in their winter quar-
ters, it will be of much importance to give them plenty of air every
favourable day, by sliding open the upright glasses, and also the
roof lights, if necessary, in order to prevent their being drawn up
loo tender before winter; for the fresh bottom heat will give
new action to the plants, and render abundance of air the more neces-
rary; observe, however, to close the lights every evening when the
house is tolerably warm, and to open them as early in the morning
as you find the thermometer up to 60 degress of Fahrenheit.

It is scarcely necessary to mention that every plant must have a
due supply of water from time to time, according to its nature and
necessity.

Pine-Apples.

Succession pine plants which are expected to produce fruit next
year, may in the first week of this month, if omitted in July and
August, be shifted as directed; but on no account should this
be delayed longer. Where it had been done in the preceding
months, and at that time no fresh tan added, it will now be neces-
sary to examine the heat of the bark-bed in the succession house,
wherein the plants in general are plunged, and if you find it very
weak fork up the tan to the bottom and plunge the pots again imme-
diately to their rims.

This will revive the heat of the bed, and continue it in a due
temperature till next month, when the plants must be removed
into the fruiting-house and plunged in a bed made wholly of new
tan.

The younger succession pines, intended to succeed those, if not
lately done, should not be shifted into larger pots, the tan forked up,
and the pots replunged immediately, after having received a little
water.

Crowns and Suckers.

The crowns dnd suckers of this year's production, will require a
brisk bottom heat, to enable the plants to make good roots before
winter: therefore, examine the bed and if it is declined in heat fork
it up and replunge the pots immediately; but if these were placed
on a dung hot-bed it may be necessary to renew the heat by a lin-
ing of fresh hot dung applied to the sides, or to the sides and ends;
or if the bed is much sunk, to work it up afresh, adding some new
dung thereto, laying on the top, as before, several inches of light
earth or tan, in which to plunge the pots. After this it will be
necessary to give a considerable portion of air to the plant?, and to

510 1'HE HOT-HOUSE. [Sept.

raise the glasses behind, when you find the steam rising in the
bed. When the nights begin to grow cold, cover the glasses
carefully with mats, and be very cautious not to keep your lights
close in sunny days.

All your succession pines should have plenty of air at this season,
which with a moderate and steady bottom heat will keep them in a
growing and prosperous state, but by no means are they to be
forced too much, nor too much confined; as by such treatment
some of the most forward might start into fruit at an untimely sea-
son, and all would be rendered more unfit to bear the vicissitudes of
the winter season, than if they were properly inured to the air and
gradually hardened; but still there may be an excess in this as well
as the other, both of which are equally to be avoided.

Procuring fresh Tan.

About the latter end of this month you should procure a quantity
of fresh tan from the tan-yards, for the purpose of making new beds
in the next month, for those plants which you expect to produce
fruit in the ensuing year; and also for the succession pines. When" the
tan is brought home it will be proper to throw it up in a heap to
drain and ferment, for ten or twelve days before it is put into the
pits. But if it is very wet, as is commonly the case when thrown up
out of the tan-vats, it should be spread thinly for two or three days,
that the sun and air may draw off or exhale the superabundant
moisture; for if used too wet, it would be a long time before it would
acquire a sufficient degree of heat.

Prepare Composts.

The composts proper for pines are described in page 454, and if
you have not hitherto prepared such as may be wanted next season,
that business should be delayed no longer.

For most of the shrubby tribe and herbaceous plants of the
Hot-house, prepare equal parts of good light garden earth, and
mellow surface loam from a rich pasture ground, with the turf;
add to these a fourth of very rotten or old hot-bed dung, and let the
whole be duly incorporated, and exposed to the weather several
months before it is used, turning the heap over every five or six
weeks.

511

OCTOBER.

WORK TO BE DONE IN THE KITCHEN-GARDEN.

Winter Spinach.

WEED and thin your advancing crops of spinach; in doing
this, observe to leave the best plants, and at the distance of three,
four, or five inches asunder, according to the progress in growth 0
of the successive crops; leaving the greatest space between the
most forward in growth. Or the plants may only be moderately thin-
ned now, ill order to admit of drawing some out, by degrees, for use.

Some of the spinach sown in August will be now fit for the
table, and if the plants were left too thick, let them be thinned out
regularly, by pulling some up by the roots as they are wanted for
use; but if the plants were properly thinned before, gather only the
outside large leaves, and the others will advance for culinary pur-
poses in regular succession.

Let it be particularly observed, that spinach will rot off wherever
the weeds spread over it, and that, consequently, it is necessary
to keep it very clean.

Lettuces.

In the first week of this month transplant from the seed beds,
into others, of light rich earth, in a warm exposure, and of such
dimensions as to be covered with your frames on the approach of
frost, the lettuce plants arising from the late August or early Sep-
tember sowings. Plant them in rows five or six inches distant
every way, so that every second plant may be taken up either for
use or future planting, leaving the others sufficient room to grow,
and to head in the greatest perfection.

Likewise plant some stout plants immediately in frames, for use
in the latter end of November, December; 8cc. covering them only
at night till severe frosts set in.

Lettuces designed to remain where sown, till spring, should be
duly thinned as they advance in growth, and always kept free from
weeds.

The various successive crops of lettuces should be transplanted,
where they are to remain during winter, whether on warm borders,
in slight hot-beds, or under frames and glasses, as early in this
month as they shall have attained to two or three inches in growth;
and indeed a judicious gardener will always have a regular succes-
sion of these plants, to guard against every kind of disappointment,
and the belter to insure a constant supply.

In the middle states, if the winter is tolerably mild, but parti-
cularly in ihe southern states, lettuces will stand in warm

512 THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [-Ocr.

south borders of light sandy ground, with a very slight protection,
and afford an early supply in spring; in these beds or borders they
may be planted at the distance of three or four inches every way,
and the supernumerary plants may be taken up in March and plant-
ed either in hot-beds for forcing, or into other beds in warm expo-
sureSj for heading in due season.

The lettuces which you plant in warm borders in the open ground
may, on the approach of winter, be protected by placing hoops
over the beds, on which to lay mats or other covering in severe
weather; or by placing a frame of boards round them on which to
lay others slightly covered with litter, when necessity requires;
or by sticking in small branches of pine or cedar between the
f rows, which will yield them considerable protection, especially if
, ,. some long dry straw be laid over these in frosty or cutting weather.
Or you may stick down forked sticks, about a foot high, lay long
poles from one fork to another, and on these, boughs of pine or
cedar pretty thick, and likewise round the edges of the beds; those
branches being supported ten or twelve inches above the plants,
will admit a free circulation of air, and prevent mouldiness. This
protection is not to be given until the severe frosts commence, nor
is it then to be taken entirely off, especially in sun-shine, until
after the general thaw takes place in spring: in very dry mild days
when the sun does not shine, or when it is not powerful, you may
take off the covering for a few hours to air the plants; but you
must as carefully guard against strong sun-shine, especially, to-
wards the latter end of February, as against the most severe frosts;
for after tender plants are severely pinched by frost, a too powerful
sun, literally dissolves and destroys them; whereas, if they were
protected from such, till gradually recovered, and the commence-
ment of free vegetation, there would not be the least danger of their
success. This is not common to lettuces only, but to cabbage and
cauliflower plants, stock-gilly flowers, wall flowers, and every other
kind that can be in the least affected by frost.

In the beginning of this month sow some of the brown Dutch,
hardy cabbage, Hammersmith hardy green, and green cos lettuces
in a frame or frames, to be kept where sown, during winter, under
the protection of glasses, Sec. in order to afford a supply of young
plants, for forcing or planting out in the early spring months.

Cabbage Plants.

The young cabbage plants arising from the seeds sown last
month, and intended for the production of early summer cabbages,
should as soon in this month as they shall have attained a sufficient
size, be planted into the beds in which they are to remain during
winter.

Let a bed or beds be prepared for them in a warm well sheltered
part of the garden, where the sun has the greatest power; for al-
though direct sun shine, when the plants are in a frozen state, is
almost certain destruction to them, yet its influence will prevent
that intense frost so prevalent in colder aspects, and when the plants,

Oct.] the KITCHEN-GARDEN. 5I3

at such times, are screened from the direct rays of the sun, its re-
flected heat comforts without injuring them.

The beds should be made the width of your garden-frames, and
the plants set therein up to their leaves, in rows about three or four
inches distant every way. When thus transplanted they will
survive the winter much better than in the seed-beds; for their
long stems being buried into the earth, are protected thereby from
alternate freezing and thawing and the effects of the various
changes of weather, than which there is nothing more injurious to
tender plants. The stems of these and cauliflower plants, are in-
jured before the foliage, and it is oi importance to keep those tender
parts in an equal temperature, by which they will be preserved
much longer, even if in a frozen state, than if they were exposed to
alternate frost and heat.

Select good plants from the seed-beds and, when planted, give
them a gentle watering to settle the earth about their roots, observ-
ing not to apply it too hastily, lest you wash the earth into their
hearts.

Put on the frames immediately, and also the lights, but the glas-
ses are now to be continued on, only for four or five days, till the
plants have taken fresh root, observing during that period to shade
the plants with mats or other protection from the mid-day sun;
but when they have taken sufficient root, the lights are to be taken
totally off, and the plants left fully exposed till the setting in of
smart frosts, except in very cold n'ghts or during the prevalence
of cold heavy rains; for it is of considerable moment to have the
plants tolerably hardy on the commencement of severe weather.

But if they happen to be in a backward state, you should keep on
the glasses every night to encourage their growth.

When you have not the convenience of glass, you may defend
the plants sufficiently in winter by means of boards and mats

Or, in the middle and southern states, you may plant some in a
•warm border, to be defended in like manner as before directed for
lettuces; and if the winter proves tolerably mild, they may happen
to stand it pretty well. But if at any time, particularly towards the
end of February, or early in March, you expose the plants to a
•warm sun, while they, or the earth in which they stand are
in a frozen state, it will inevitably destroy them.

You should in mild warm weather, when the sun is not power-
ful, give them an occasional airing, and the oftener this can be done
so that they are covered up again in due time the better.

Similar precautions are to be used with plants in frames, that are
frozen, but such as are not, will be improved by exposing them oc-
casionally, to as much air and sun as prudence may warrant, till
planted out finally in March, Sec.

By pursuing this method you will have much earlier and larger
cabbages, than can be expected from plants sown in the early spring
months.

3T

5i4 THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [Oct.

Cauliflowers.

The cauliflower plants are to be treated in every respect as di-
rected for cabbage plants, with this difference, that as they are
somewhat more tender, they will require the protection and advan-
tage of glasses and a good substantial covering to defend them from
severe frosts; though in mild winters they, with due care, will sur-
vive under the protection of garden frames covered with boards
and mats.

As the cauliflower plants advance in growth, it will be proper to
strew between them some dry tan, saw-dust, or chaflF, so as to cover
the sterna completely up to the leaves, this will affbrd great protec-
tion to those parts which are always found to be the most vulnerable
to frost, &c.

If you find that in consequence of an unfavourable season, or of
your not sowing the cauliflower seed in due time, the plants to be
rather backward, you should prick them from the seed-bed on a
slight hot-bed to promote their growth, but in this case you must
be particulai'ly attentive to give them plenty of air, that the plants
may be stout and hardy on the approach of severe weather.

You should carefully protect the cauliflower plants from exces-
sive heavy rains, especially when the nights get pretty cold, for
such are very injurious to them and frequently cause their stems to
turn black, which always proves destructive.

In the southern states where the winters are mild, and where it is
difficult to liave good cauliflowers, except they can be obtained at
an early season, before the great summer heat sets in, which is
very inimical to those plants, the only sure Avay of obtaining them
in the best perfection is, to be provided with a sufficient number of
bell or hand glasses, under which to plant them out finally about the
latter end of this month.

The ground for this early crop should be very rich, tolerably
light, in a warm situation, and where water is not apt to stand in
winter. The ground is to be previously well manured with old hot-
bed or other well rotted dung, and then dug one good spade deep
at least, breaking it eff"ectually and incorporating the dung well
therewith.

Then lay it out into beds three feet wide, and allow alleys a foot
wide between them, for the conveniency of going in to take off",
put on, or raise the glasses, &c. stretch your line along the middle
of the bed, from one end to the other, and at every three feet and a
half, mark the places for the glasses, and for each, put in three,
four, or more plants, according to the size of the glasses, and within
about six inches of one another; close the earth well about their
roots and stems, and give them a moderate watering. When the
whole are planted set on your glasses, observing to place one over
every patch of plants as above.

The glasses are to be kept close down for about eight days till
the plants have taken fresh root and begin to grow, when they are to
to be raised on one side and supported with pieces of wood, stone^

Oct.] the KITCHEN-GARDEN. 5 15

or brick-bats, &c. about two or three inches thick; or they may be
supported with notched wooden pegs, or forked sticks, placing
them on the south side, one prop under each glass. In this man-
ner they are to remain night and day until the frosts set in; but
if the plants are much advanced in growth before that period, which
will seldom be the case, except in the more southern states, it will
be proper to set the glasses off in the middle of mild, dry days, but
keep them always over the plants at night and in wet or frosty
weather; in keeping the glasses over the plants to defend them from
excessive or incessant rains, if open mild weather, they must
be raised two or three inches on the warmest side, in the manner
before observed, to admit a sufficiency of air.

When the frost sets in, close down the glasses, and keep them
so during its continuance; observing on a favourable change to give
the plants a little air occasionally, and to pick off any mouldy or
decayed leaves. As early in spring as it can be done with safety,
plant out the extra plants into other beds similarly prepared, or
rather as directed in April, leaving only one or two of the best
under each glass, at the same time draw the earth up round the
stems of those left, and raise the glasses on props as the plants
advance in growth, till they become too much confined; then
take off the glasses totally, observing to earth them up occasionally,
and finally to treat them as directed in May.

In places where the winters are somewhat severe, mats or straw
should be placed over and round each glass, during the prevalence
of hard frost.

This method may be practised successively in warm soils and
exposures in the middle states; but it will require more than ordi-
nary care to preserve them in good perfection.

The late spring sown cauliflowers, will now begin to show their
heads; therefore they must be diligently looked over, two or three
times a week, to break down some of the inner leaves upon the
flowers, which will protect them from sun, frost< and wet, either of
which would change their colour, and cause them to be unsightly.

Broccoli, Cabbages, Sfc.

Early in this month give a general hoeing and earthing up, to all
the late planted advancing crops of broccoli, cabbages, savoys and
borecole, in order to forward and strengthen their growth as much
as possible, before winter; likewise, to the late cauliflowers, and
every other of the cabbage tribe.

Mushrooms.

Having the dung for the mushroom bed duly prepared, and the
spawn in readiness as advised in September, you should in the first
week, or rather about the first day of this month, begin to make
the bed.

With respect to the situation in which to make the bed, it should
be in an elevated part of the hot-bed yard, or in some dry, and

516 THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [Oct.

well sheltered place. The bed ought to be made entirely on the
surface of the ground, rather than forming a shallow trench in which
to make the bottom part, as practised by some; for by the former
method, it can be spawned quite to the bottom, and the lower
part will not be chilled by standing water in cold or wet weather,
and particularly as the part sunk in the ground may be considered
as totally useless.

The width of the bed at bottom should be from three to four feet,
and any length you please, in proportion to the quantity of mush-
rooms required, or the quantity of spawn with which you are pro-
vided.

Being furnished with a three tined fork, begin to make the bed
by shaking some of the longest of the prepared dung, evenly all
along the bottom, four or five inches thick; then take the dung in
general as it comes and work it into the bed, gradually narrowing it
upwards, shaking and mixing the dung as you proceed and beating
it down with the fork layer by layer: proceed in this manner still
di'awing in the sides of the bed till it terminates in a narrow ridge at
top, so that the bed may be formed like the roof of a house: be
careful that each end, shall be sloped in like manner as the sides,
and that all parts is madeyw// a.x\AJirm by beating it with the fork as
you proceed, to preserve uniformity and to prevent its settling down
too much in an unequal manner: it should be full three, or
three and a half feet perpendicular height when settled.

When the bed is finished, it should be covered with long straw
laid on neatly to keep out wet, and also to prevent its drying; in
this state it is to remain about ten or twelve days, by which time it
will be in a fit condition to be spawned; but to ascertain the state
of the bed with the greater certainty, put in a few long sharp-pointed
sticks into several parts thereof, pull out and feel these occasionally,
carefully attending to the progress of its fermentation, and when
you find the heat on the decline, and temperate, that is the time to
put in the spawn; for a violent heat, as well as too much wet would
inevitably destroy it.

The bed being in a proper temperature, the covering of straw
should be taken off, and the sides made smooth and even; then lay
all over the bed about an inch thick of light rich earth, not wet. In
this the spawn is to be planted in rows six inches asunder, along the
sides and ends, making the first or lowest row, six inches from the
surface of the ground, and proceeding upwards row by row to the
top, observing to place the pieces of spawn about six inches asun-
der, and so far in, as to touch the surface of the dung. This done,
lay on the top of the ridge, part of the loose or scattered spawn
and shake some all over the bed; then cover the whole about an
inch and a half deep with light rich earth, smooth the surface neatly,
and lay on a light covering of straw as before, just so thick as to
keep out wet and prevent the bed from drying.

As you find the bed decrease in heat and the weather grow cold,
increase the covering to a foot, eighteen inches, two feet, or in se-
vere frost, to such a thickness as may be effectually sufficient to
prevent its reaching the bed.

Oct.] the KITCHEN-GARDEN. 517

Two or three beds may be made parallel to each other in this
way, with wide alleys between them, and if the whole were to be
covered with a shed, especially in the middle and eastern states,
it would be found of considerable advantage, in effectually preserv-
ing them from too much wet, which is as essentially necessary as
their preservation from frost.

If your bed is in a due temperature, the mushrooms will begin
to appear in about four or five weeks after its being made, and
with proper care will continue in bearing several months: when you
find it ceasing to produce, in consequence of cold, lay a covering of
hot stable dung seven or eight inches, or in hard frosts, near a foot
thick all over the bed, observing to leave under this, between it and
the bed, about three inches thick of dry straw, covering the hot
dung over with the remainder of the straw or litter; this will
revive the heat, give new action to the spawn, and should be repeated
as often during winter as it may be found necessary, always observ-
ing to preserve the bed from wet, cold and frost.

Sometimes it happens, that the beds do not produce any mush-
rooms till they have lain five or six months, so that they should not
be destroyed though they do not at first answer the expectation; for
such, frequently produce great quantities afterwards, and continue
bearing a long time.

A good bed may continue productive, for three, four, five, or even
twelve months; but by that time it is generally worn out; the dung
then makes excellent manure, and the interior part sometimes fur-
nishes very good spawn.

The great skill of managing these beds, is that of keeping them
in a proper degree of warmth and moisture, never suffering them to
receive much wet: during the summer season they may be un-
covered occasionally to receive gentle showers of rain, when thought
necessary, and in very dry seasons the beds should be now and then
opened, gently watered, and covered up soon after; but the summer
covering need be no thicker than what is necessary to preserve the
bed from the drying influence of the weather.

This method of propagating mushrooms by the s/iawn, or tlie
white fibrous radicles, is the most common; but they may also be
increased by seed. When the latter method is used, the gills are
cut out and put into the beds: or else they are infused in water and
the beds sprinkled with the infusion.

When the bed is in full bearing, it should be examined two or
three times a week, to gather the produce, turning off the straw
carefully, and collecting the mushrooms white, and of a moderate
size: taking care to detach them from the bottom, by a gentle twist,
pulling the stems out clean, for if broke or cut off, the remaining
parts would become putrid and full of maggots, and consequently
infectious to the successional plants.

Where mushrooms are greatly admired, and expense not consi-
dered an object, they may be had with more certainty, in greater
abundance, and in a regular succession, by making the beds as be-
fore directed, under a range of glass framing, made in the manner
of a hot-house, or the top sloped botli ways like the roof of a house;

51 Q THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [Otn.

in such a place, they could be effectually defended from excessive
wet, cold, frost, and snow, and would consequently be very produc-
tive. Likewise, if in this place there is a pit, like that in a hot-house,
a bed of dung may be made therein, raised at top above the pit in
a rounding manner, on which the spawn is placed, earthed over
near two inches thick, and then covered well with straw. Or
in such a pit you may, by mixing a quantity of strong horse dung,
moist stable litter, and rich loamy earth together, have the spawn
generated; by filling the pit with this mixture, the dung predomi-
nating so as to produce a slow and lasting fermentation, and covering
the whole over with about an inch deep of light earth and a good
coat of straw, the spawn will be produced; and from this, abundant
crops of mushrooms, in regular succession for several months.

You may likewise make beds in the common hot-bed way, place
thereon frames and glasses, and when the violent heat is abated,
spawn the top all over, cover it with an inch and a half or two inches
of earth, then thickly with straw, and lay on the glasses to protect
the beds from rain.

Mushroom beds may be made in any month, when the weather is
mild and dry, but those made in the beginning of this, is generally
most productive, and besides, they retain more heat on the approach
of winter than if made in September. However when a second bed
is to be made it would be well to make one in each month.

Endive.

Continue every week to tie up some full grown endive for blanch-
ing, as directed in page 461, tying no more at a time than in pro-
portion to the demand or consumption; for if it is not used soon
after being sufficiently blanched, it becomes tender, and is subject
to rot, especially if the season proves wet. Some people blanch
endive by laying boards or tiles flat on the plants; they will whiten
tolerably well by this method, but their growth during the period
of whitening is greatly checked thereby, which is certainly of some
importance.

Others draw earth round the endive plants after their being tied
up in the usual manner, this may do very well in dry weather, but
if rain ensues, many of the leaves will rot, and the entire be greatly
injured.

If you have stout endive plants, and neglected in September to
set out a sufficient number, that work may be done in the first
week of this month, but it ought not to be deferred longer: these
late plants will keep better, if the season should prove favourable
that they may attain a tolerable size, than those of a more forward
growth.

Or to preserve late endive for winter use, as well from the
effects of too much wet as frost, you may in the first week of this
month, prepare a sloping bank of light earth in a warm situation,
the sloping side fronting the south, and the bed raised two feet
higher behind than in front: on this plant, tolerably close, some
stout middle sized plants, and on the approach of severe weather

OcT.O THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. 519

place a frame and glasses over the bed, and in hard frost, fill
the inside immediately over the plants with dry straw, thus they
■will be protected from wet and frost and will whiten effectually
under the covering of straw, which should be turned occasionally
to prevent that part next the plants and earth from becoming
mouldy.

For further particulars respecting the preservation of endive, see
next month.

Raising young Mint and Tarragon for use in Winter.

Where young mint and tarragon is in request at all seasons,
you may, towards the end of this month, make a slight hot-bed
and set the plants therein, as directed in page 19; this done, put
on the glasses, and observe to raise them behind every day to admit
air, and prevent the young rising shoots from being scorched by the
effects of a too powerful sun beaming on the lights whilst close shut.
The young productions will be fit for use in about three weeks, or
a month, and afford a supply for a considerable time.

Winter-dressing of Jlsparagus Beds.

Towards the end of this month, if the stalks of your asparagus
turn yellow, which is a sign of their having finished their growth
for the season, cut them down close to the earth and carry them
off the ground; clear the beds carefully from weeds, eradicating
them effectually and drawing them into the alleys.

Asparagus beds in general, will be greatly benefited by an annual
dressing of good manure, and nothing is better or more suitable for
them, than the dung of old hot-beds; but if that is not to be had,
well rotted stable manure will answer; let it be laid equally over
the beds, one, two, or three inches deep, according to necessity,
after which, stretch a line and with a spade mark out the alleys
from about eighteen inches to two feet wide, agreeably to their
original dimensions.

Then dig the alleys one spade deep, and spread a considerable
part of the earth evenly over the beds; and as you advance, let the
weeds which were raked off into the alleys, be dug into the bottom
of the trenches and covered a proper depth with earth; observe to
make the edges of the beds straight, full, and neat, and to finish
your work in a becoming manner, giving a moderate rounding to
the beds, especially if the ground be inclined to wet.

In the southern states, there may be planted in each alley, a row
of early cabbage plants; but in the middle and eastern states, it
would be well to fill them up with straw or old litter, well tram-
pled down, which would in some measure, prevent the frost from
entering that way to the asparagus roots.

The seedling asparagus which was sown last spring, should
also now have a slight dressing; that is to clear the bed from
wdees,and then to spread an inch or two in depth of dry rotten dung
over it, to defend the crowns of the plants from frost.

520 THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [Oct.

The asparagus which is intended for forcing, will likewise re-
quire to have the stalks cut down, and the weeds drawn off into the
alleys, which must be dug to bury them, and as you proceed spread
a Utile of the earth over the beds, after which, they are to be treated
as noticed next month.

I would not advise to attempt the forcing of asparagus sooner
than November, as before that period the roots will not be com-
pletely matured; however, you may about the middle, or towards
the latter end of this month, begin to prepare hot-beds for the re-
ception of the roots, early in November. Sec the method in
page 123.

Celery and Cardoons.

In dry weather, contine to earth up celery and cardoons, to blanch
them, as directed in page 479. For the method of preserving them
in winter, see next month.

Jlromatic and Medicinal Herbs, Sfc.

Cut down all the decayed flower stems and shoots of the various
kinds of aromatic, pot, and medicinal herbs, close to the heads of
the plants, or to the surface of the ground, according to the nature
or growth of the different sorts; at the same time, clear the beds
very well from weeds and litter, and carry the whole off" the ground.

Lavender, thyme, hyssop, winter savory, southern wood, sage,
rue, and the like undershrubby kinds, will require only their
tops or heads to be neatly dressed; but pot marjoram, baum,
burnet, tarragon, tansey, penny-royal, sorrel, chamomile, fennel,
marsh mallows, horehound, mint of every kind, angelica, lovage,
and every kind of herbaceous perennial herbs, should ht cut down
pretty close to the ground.

After this it will be proper, in beds where the plants stand
distant from one another, to lightly dig and loosen the ground
between them; or, in old beds it would be a great advantage to
spread some very rotten dung equally over the surface, and with
a small spade or trowel, to dig it in lightly between the plants; if
they are in beds with alleys between them, dig the alleys and spread
a little of the loose earth over the beds, leaving the edges full and
straight.

But the beds of close growing running plants, such as mint,
penny-royal, and the like creeping herbs, will not well admit of
digging; therefore after the stalks are cut down and the beds
cleared from weeds, dig the alleys and strew some of the loose
earth evenly over the beds; and if the ground be rather poor, a
ligfic top dressing of very rotten dung will be of considerable
service.

This dressing will give proper culture, and -protection to the
roots of the plants, a neat appearance to the whole, and in spring the
shoots will rise with renewed vigour.

Early in the month you may plant, where wanted, well rooted
young plants of thyme, hyssop, winter savory, lavender, or the

Oct.] the KITCHEN-GARDEN. 521

like, into four feet wide beds, or in any warm borders, in rows a foot
asunder. You may also divide and plant roots of mint, chamo-
mile, horehound, and likewise any of the preceding, or other herba-
ceous perennial herbs that you are desirous of propagating. For
further particulars see page 106.

Small Sallading.

Where a constant succession of small sallad-herbs is required,
continue to sow the seeds accordingly every ten or fourteen days;
particularly, cresses, radish, rape, mustard and lettuce, to cut while
young. But in the middle and eastern states, these should be
sown at this season, particularly towards the latter end of the monthj
in very warm borders under the protection of frames and glasses,
for the greater certainty of having a constant supply. The glasses
should be kept totally off every warm day, and only put on at night
or when the weather is very cold or excessively wet.

In the middle states, when the season is favourable, small sallad-
ing will grow free enough any time this month in warm borders,
but it will be proper to have frames and glasses to place over thexn»
if necessity should require it.

Elecampane,

The seeds of the Liula flelenium, or elecampane, should now be
sown, for if kept up till spring few would vegetate till the year fol-
lowing; but when sown either in this, or the next month, the plants
will rise freely in spring, and may be planted out the succeeding
autumn.

Most people propagate this plant by offsets, which, if cars-
fully taken from the old roots with a bud or eye to each, will
take root freely, and this is a very proper period for so doing.
These should be planted in rows about a foot asunder, and the
same distance plant from plant in the rows; during the ensuing
spring and summer, the ground must be kept clean and free from
weeds, and in autumn it should be slightly dug, which will promote
the growth of the roots; they will be fit for use after two years"*
growth but will abide many years if permitted to stand; how-
ever, the young roots are preferable to those that are old and stringy.
It loves a loamy soil, not too dry.

This plant is possessed of many medicinal virtues, on which ac-
count it is very deserving of cultivation. An infusion of the fresh root
sweetened with honey, is said to be an excellent medicine in the
hooping cough.

Dill, .Alexanders, Skirrets, Rhubarb, and Sea-Kak.

The seeds of dill, alexanders, skirrets, rhubarb, and sea-kale,
should now be sown; for if kept out of the ground till spring, many
of them would not vegetate for a year after; but when sown in
this, or the next month; if the seeds are fresh and perfect, good

3U

522 THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [Oct.

crops may be expected to rise therefrom in March or April. For
the methods of sowing and treatmg them, see the Kitchen-Garden
for March.

Shallots, Chives, Garlic, and Rocambole.

This is a very proper season to plant roots of shallots, chives,
garlick, and rocambole; for the method of planting them, see page
198.

Planting large Onions for producing Seed.

For this purpose make choice of a piece of good, rich light
ground, which dig a full spade deep, breaking it fine as you proceed;
when ready, select a number proportionate to the quantity of seed
you intend to save, of the firmest, largest and best shaped onions,
and of the most desirable kinds, observing that each variety is to be
planted separately, and remote from any other.

The middle of October, or any time between that and the end of
the month, is the most eligible time for planting, as the bulbs will
have time to establish roots or fibres, which will greatly support
them during winter, and render them less liable to injury from frost,
than if planted at a later period.

Having your ground dug and the roots in readiness, lay it out
into four feet wide beds, with a fourteen inch alley between each;
then strain a line about six inches within the side of a bed, and with
a spade throw out an opening or drill about five inches deep the
length of the bed, in which lay the onions seated handsomely on
their bottoms, about nine inches distant one from the other; then
with a rake, draw the earth into the opening -so as to cover the
bulbs from three to four inches above their crowns; remove
the line a foot farther back, plant another row as before, and so
continue till the first bed is planted containing four rows; after
which proceed with the others in the same way, to the end; then
with a spade or shovel cast over the beds, a slight dressing from
the alleys, and finish by raking them neatly, drawing off the stones
and any large lumps of earth from the surface.

In March the leaves will appear above ground, after which they
are to be kept perfectly free from weeds; many of the roots will
produce three or four stalks each, which towards the latter part of
May will have grown to their full height, when you must be pro-
vided with a sufficient number of stakes, about four feet long, to
drive into the ground in the rows of onions, at the distance of from
six to eight feet, stake from stake in each and every row, to which
are to be fastened, double lines of pack-thread, rope-yarn, or small
cord, to run on each side of the stems of the onions a little below
their heads, to support and prevent them from breaking down by
wind and rain; and if those are tied together at intervals between
stake and stake, they will the more effectually support the plants.
This is the more necessary, as when the seeds arc formed, the
heads become very heavy, and often break down, even by their own
weight, where they are not well secured, in which case, there will
be a considerable loss, both in the quantity and quality of the seed.

Oct.] the KITCHEN-GARDEN. 523

When the seed is ripe, which is very perceivable by the capsules
opening, and the seed turning black, the heads are to be cut off and
spread thinly upon coarse cloths, in the sun till quite dry, observing
to keep them under shelter at night and in wet weather; then beat
or rub out the seed, fan it clean, expose it to the sun for a day or
two after and put it up in bags till wanted for sowing.

Some people plant the onions which they intend to produce seed,
in spring, but when planted at that season they are never so pro-
ductive of seed as those planted in October, and are much more
subject to blite; however, when it is so determined, it should be
done as soon after the middle of February, as it is possible to get the
ground in a fit condition to receive them, and should not be coveredi
more than from two to three inches over their crowns; observing,
to select for that purpose, such roots as have good properties and no
growths from their tops.

A slight covering of straw or light litter laid over the October
planted beds, on the approach of hard frost, and raked clean off as
soon as the leaves begin to appear in spring, would be of use,
though it is not absolutely necessary to the preservation of the
roots.

Horse-Radish and Scurvy Grass.

You may now plant roots of the Cochlearia jirmoracia, or horse-
radish, in dry, rich ground, agreeably to the directions given in page
209; but in moist soil, March will be a preferable lime.

This is a proper season to sow some seed of the Cochlearia officinalis
or common officinal scurvy-grass; from this sowing the plants will
rise freely in spring, and generally succeed better than if sown at
that season. I do not mean what is commonly used for an early
spring sallad, and generally called scurvy- grass; for the sowing
of which I have given directions in page 463, under the name of
Winter Cresses.

Ordinary work.

Give a general hoeing and weeding to all your crops, and carry
the weeds immediately out of the garden, lest they shed their seeds
and lay the foundation of much trouble; likewise clean all vacant
quarters from weeds, and from the decayed stalks of peas, beans,
cabbages, 8cc.

Such spaces of ground as are now vacant, should be dunged and
dug, or trenched, that it may have the true advantage of fallow in
the winter season.

If the ground is of a stiff or heavy nature, throw it up into high
sloping ridges, for the reasons assigned in page 9.

Taking up the roots of Carrots, Beets, Sfc.

About the latter end of the month you may begin to take up
the roots of full grown carrots, beets, parsneps, turneps, Jerusalem
artichokes, See. which are to be preserved as directed in November.

524 'i'HE FRUIT-GARDEN. fOor.

Southern States.

In Georgia, South Carolina, and the parts of North Carolina
south of the 35th degree of latitude, you may now sow the seeds of
carrot, parsnep, beet, onion, parsley, cresses, spinach, and several
other kinds of hardy garden vegetables: plant out from the
seed-beds cabbage and cauliflower plants. Sow peas, and plant
early Mazagan, and Windsor beans, with every other variety of the
Victa Faba.

In North Carolina, generally, Tennessee, and the southern parts of
Virginia and Kentucky, you may sow peas, plant the above species
of bean, sow carrot, parsnep, onion, parsley, and other hardy seeds;
plant out cabbages, and also cauliflower plants; but the cauliflowers,
if the winter is any way severe, will require the protection of
hand glasses, oiled-paper caps, frames, or the like, as directed in
page 514.

THE FRUIT-GARDEN.

Gatliering Winter Pears and Apples.

Gather your winter pears and apples as they ripen; but for
particulars, see the article Orchard^ for this month.

Truning.

Towards the latter end of the month, you may begin to prune
such trees as have completely shed their leaves, but by no means
lay your knife to a tree, for a general pruning, till this is the case.

In the middle states I would not recommend the pruning of
peach, nectarine, almond, and apricot trees, before the latter end of
February, nor in the eastern states before the first week in March;
but they should not be much longer neglected. In the southern
states, they may be pruned at any time between the periods in which
they shed their leaves and the latter end of January.

Apples, pears, plumbs and cherries, being perfectly hardy, may
be pruned, in any part of the United States, immediately after
they drop their leaves, or in November, December, or January,
8cc. But were it not on account of performing work, when it can
most convertiently be done, I would prefer early spring pruning of
all kinds of trees to any other, on account of the recent ivoundsy
healing .ind covering over with bark more immediately, when vege-
tation soon follows, than those anteriorly inflicted.

For the method of pruning the various kinds of wall and espalier
fruit-trees, &c. see page 23, &c.

Oct.] the FRUIT-GARDEN. 525

Planting Fruit-Trees.

Towards the latter end of this month, you may safely transplant
most sorts of fruit-trees, but particularly such kinds as shall have
by that time shed their leaves. This may be done to advantage
during the entire of next month, if the season continues open,
provided the ground in which you plant he dry and does not
lodge water in the winter months; and likewise, that sufficient pains
be taken to make each tree fast in its place, by nailing or binding it
up in such a manner as not to be rocked about by the winds;
otherwise spring planting if done early in March will be more suc-
cessful, particularly for the peach, nectarine and almond.

JVoce. In the more southern states of the Union the planting of
the more hardy kinds of fruit and other trees, should be completed
before the end of January, on account of the early vegetation in those
regions.

If the borders wherein trees are to be planted, either for the wall
or espalier, be new, they should be trenched at least two feet deep if
the good soil admits thereof; but if not, they should be made of
that depth by adding thereto a sufficiency of good mellow fertile
soil, such as fresh surface loam, &c. this should be worked to the
depth of two feet, at least, with the soil of the border, and it would be
of great advantage to add some good rotten dung, previous to the
trenching. But if a sufficient quantity of fresh soil cannot be con-
veniently obtained for the whole, you may sink one, two, or three
wheel barrows full, together with some rotten dung in the place
where each tree is to be planted.

However, where the ground is already of a good quality, as that
of a common kitchen-garden, &c. the above assistance will not be ne-
cessary, as trees will prosper sufficiently well in any soil that is pro-
ductive of good garden vegetables.

As to aspect, your latest ripening fruits, particularly late peaches,
should have a warm exposure, and also some of the earliest ripening
of the various kinds of fruit, on account of having them in perfec-
tion at an early period. For the method of planting, and proper dis-
tances, &c. see page 221.

Planting Gooseberries.

Towards the latter end of this month, or early in November, is the
best time in the year to plant trees of this delicious and very valuable
fruit.

You may plant them round the borders of the best quarters of
your kitchen -garden, about two feet and a half, or three feet from
the walks, and from six to eight feet distant from one another. Or
they may be planted in continued plantations, the rows from eight
to ten feet asunder and the plants six or seven feet apart, in the
rows. In the latter case the ground between the rows may be
occupied with winter spinach, corn-sallad, lettuces, and winter cres-
ses; and in spring and summer, with rows of sallading of various
kinds, dwarf peas and beans, or any other low growing crops: but

526 THE FRUIT-GARDEN. [Oct.

it must be particularly observed, always to keep the ground under
and immediately contiguous to each bush, free from weeds
or crops of any kind; for if damps and moisture are confined about
the bushes in this way, the fruit will mildew and become use-
less.

It will be in vain to expect fine fruit, unless you have ffood kinds,
and give them the best ground possible, a plentiful supply of ma-
nure annually, frequent culture, and regular pruning.

The best time to plant them out finally, is when they have had
one or two years' growth from cuttings; or indeed the cuttings
may, with great propriety, be planted where they are to remain
for fruiting. Old gooseberry bushes seldom bear large fruit after
being transplanted, unless they are carefully removed with large
balls of earth round their roots.

Previous to planting, each young tree should be pruned up to
one clean stem of eight, to ten, or twelve inches, before you form
the head; for when they are suffered to branch away immediately
from the bottom, they, by spreading out so near the ground, will
impede the growth of any crops that grow near them, and in the
occasional and very necessary business of manuring, digging, hoe-
ing, weeding, &c. will be very troublesome to work between.

For further observations on the planting of gooseberrier-, see
pages, 138 and 292.

Pruning and Propagating Gooseberries,

The latter part of this month and the entire of the next, will be a
very suitable season for the pruning of gooseberries. It is a prac-
tice too common in pruning these trees, to let them branch out
with long naked stems, suffering them to remain in that slate for
many years. When that is already the case, they should be cut
down, orconsiderably shortened, to promote a free growth of healthy,
young shoots, which will bear fruit abundantly the second year.
But for general instructions on this head see page 32.

You may now plant cuttings of the various kinds of gooseberries
which you wish to propagate; for the necessary instructions, see
page 292.

JVbte. New varieties of gooseberries may be obtained by sowing
seeds of the best kinds you are able to procure, either in this, or
any of the autumn months, in beds in the open ground, or in boxes
of good earth. From these sowings the plants will rise freely
in spring, and by the autumn or spring following, may be planted
in nursery rows, to remain another season, after which they are
to be finally planted out for fruiting: or they may remain where
planted from the seed-bed till they show specimens of fruit; then
those that are good are to be taken due care of; the others, which,
by the bye, will be the far greater number, may be thrown away.

If the seed is kept out of the ground till spring, scarcely any of
it will vegetate till that time twelve months; therefore, it is ne-
cessary either to sow it in autumn, or to preserve it in damp earth
or sand, till February, or March. If sown in autumn cover it near

Oct.] the FRUIT-GARDEN. 527

half an inch deep with loose, rich earth, but if in spring, a quarter
of an inch will be sufficient.

Planting Raspberries.

There are many varieties of the Rubus idaus, or European
raspberry, but the most preferable are the large common red, the
large common white, the red Antwerp, and the white Antwerp
I'aspberries.

The smooth cane double-bearing raspberry, is cultivated in some
places, as it produces one crop of fruit in June, and another in
October; but the fruit are few and small, which has occasioned its
being neglected.

Of the Rubus occidentalism or American raspberry, we have two
varieties, the black fruited; and the red fruited; the latter is prefera-
ble in taste and flavour to the black variety.

Raspberries do not thrive well under the shade of trees, nor in
such situations are their fruit well flavoured; therefore, they should
be planted in a detached airy piece of ground, naturally good, or
artificially made so. As to the choice of plants and method of
planting them, I refer you to page 222.

Such as you plant between the middle and latter end of this
month, will make new roots before winter, and produce some good
fruit next season; but in the year following, they will bear plenti-
fully.

Dressing and Pinning Raspberries.

When your new plantations are finished, and all the stout, strag-
gling suckers, taken away for that purpose, dig the ground of the
old standing plantations carefully, clearing out by the roots, the
remaining useless and scattered suckers, leaving an ample supply
of the best shoots for pruning.

In the middle and eastern states, I would not recommend the
pruning of raspberries before spring; for by deferring that work
to the latter end of February, or beginning of March, there will be
a greater chance of the shoots not being injured by frost; and
moreover, you can then make choice of such as received the least
injury. But in the southern states they may be pruned now with
safety; for the method see page 139.

It is necessary to observe that the shoots which had borne fruit
last summer, must be cut down to the ground either now or in the
spring, as they will never bear again; and that it is from the shoots
of the present season, immediately rising from the roots, that you
are to expect fruit in the ensuing year.

The Antwerp raspberries being somewhat more tender and sub-
ject to be injured by frost than the common kinds, it will be of con-
siderable advantage to protect them therefrom, in the manner di-
rected next month.

528 J^HE ORCHARD. [Oct.

Fropagating Fruit-trees by Layers and Suckers,

The young shoots of mulberries, figs, filberts, codlins, vines, 8cc.
may now be laid in the earth, as directed in page 287, and they will
be all well rooted by this time twelve months.

Suckers may be taken off and planted from codlins, berberries,
filberts, 8cc. digging them up with good roots to each, and planting
the largest, at once, where they are to remain, and the rest into
nursery-rows.

Dressing the Strawberry Beds, and making new Plantations.

The old beds of strawberries should some time in this month,
have their winter dressing; in doing of which, they should be
cleaned from weeds, and the vines or runners taken off close to the
plants; then if there be room between the plants, by having been
.kept to distinct heads, or single bunches, which is certainly the most
preferable method, loosen the earth to a moderate depth with a
small spade or hoe, observing not to disturb the roots. And if the
plants are in beds with alleys between, line out the alleys and let
them be dug a moderate depth, breaking the earth very fine and
spreading a sufficiency of it over the beds, between and round the
roots of the plants, being careful not to bury their tops. A slight
top dressing of well rotted dung, may, sometimes, be necessary.
This dressing will prove very beneficial, and promote strength and
a plentiful crop the ensuing season.

When it was omitted last month, new plantations of strawberries
may now be made, but the earlier in the month the better, that
the plants may have time to establish new roots before winter.
For full instructions on that head, see page 484.

Preserving Stones and Kernels of Fruits.

Preserve in damp earth or sand, the stones of the various kinds
of fruit you intend to sow for stocks, &c. and let apple, pear, and
quince kernels, be preserved in dry sand, till you wish to sow them.
Observe not to place them in the way of mice, rats, or squirrels,
which would immediately destroy them; and when sown, every
precaution must be taken to preserve them from these animals.

THE ORCHARD.

Winter pears and apples should, generally, be gathered this
month; some will be fit for pulling in the early part, others not be-
fore the middle or latter end thereof.

To know when the fruits have had their full growth, you should
try several of them in different parts of tUe trees, by turning them

Oct.] the ORCHARD. 529

gently one way or the other; if they quit the tree easily, it is a sign
of maturity and time to gather them.

But none of the more delicate eating pears, should be suffered
to remain on the trees till overtaken by frost, for if they are once
touched with it, it will occasion many of them to rot in a very
short time. Indeed it would be needless, even wrong, to suffer
either apples or pears to remain on the trees, after the least appear-
ance of ice upon the water; as they would be subject to much inju-
ry, and receive no possible kind of benefit afterwards.

Observe in gathering the principal keeping fruits, both pears and
apples, to do it when the trees and fruit are perfectly dry, other-
wise they will not keep so well; and that the sorts designed for long
kee/iing; be all carefully hand pulled, one by one, and laid gently
into a basket, so as not to bruise one another.

According as the fruits are gatheredj carry them into the fruitery,
or into some convenient dry, clean, apartment, and lay them care-
fully in heaps, each sort separate, for about ten days, or two weeks,
in order that the watery juices may transpire; which will make them
keep longer, and render them much better for eating, than if put
up finally as soon as pulled.

When they have lain in heaps that time, wipe each fruit, one
after another, with a clean, dry cloth, and if you have a very warm
dry cellar, where frost is by no means likely to enter, nor the place
subject to much dampness, lay them singly, upon shelves, coated
with dry straw, and cover them with a layer of the same.

Or, you may wrap some of the choice sorts, separately, in white
paper, and pack them up in barrels, or in baskets, lined with the
like material. Or, after being wiped dry, lay layer about of fruit
and perfectly dry sand, in barrels, and head them up as tight
as possible. In default of sand, you may use barley chaff, bran, or
dry saw dust.

Another method, and a very good one, is to be provided with a
number of large earthen jars, and a quantity of moss, in a perfectly
dry state; and when the fruits are wiped dry as before directed,
your jars being also dry, lay therein layer about of fruit and moss,
till the jars are near full, then cover with a layer of moss.

Suffer them to remain in this slate for eight or ten days, then
examine a stratum or two at the top to see if the moss and fruits
are perfectly dry; and if you find them in a good condition, stop the
jars up with good cork plugs, and cover them with some melted
rosin to keep out air. The pears and apples to be used this way
should be of the latest and best keeping kinds, and such as are not
generally fit for use till February, March, or April.

Afier the jars are sealed as above, place them in a warm dry
cellar or room on a bed of fierfcctly dry sand, at least one foot
thick; and about the middle of November, or sooner if there is any
danger to be apprehended from frost, fill up between the jars with
very dry sand, until it is a foot thick round and over them. Thus
you may preserve pears in the greatest perfection, for eight or nine
months, and apples, twelve.

Be particularly careful to examine every fruit as you wipe it,

3 X

530 ^ME VINEYARD. [Oct,

lest it is bruised, which would cause it soon to rot and communicate
the infection, so ihat in a little lime much injury might be sus-
taine.'i, in consequence of a trifling neglect in the first instance:
but above all things, place your fruit whatever way they are put up,
completely out of the reach of frost.

The common kinds for more immediate use, after being sweated
and wiped as before directed, may be packed in hampers or barrels,
layer about of fruit and straw, and placed where they will neither be
exposed to damps nor frost.

Planting and Pruning Fruit-Trees.

What I have said under the article Fruit-Garden^ for this month,
is perfectly applicable, in as much as it has relation to the planting
and pruning of Orchards at this season. But for general instructions,
on these heads, I refer you to the article Orchard^ in January, page
46, February page 141, and March page 224, See. After a care-
ful perusal of what is there said, you will be perfectly able to judge,
(taking into consideration tlie nature of your soil and local situa-
tion of the place) whether it is more prudent for you to plant and
prune in the autumn, or to defer that business till the opening of
spring.

If any of your fruit trees are cracked and rough in the bark,
when the fruit is pulled, scrape off the loose parts, and, Avith a
large painting brush, apply a mixture of cow-dung and urine,
made to the consistence of a thick paint, covering the stem and any
other parts so affected carefully over therewith. This will soften
the old rough bark, which will peal off with it during the following
winter and spring, leaving after it the smooth fresh bark only.
Your trees being freed from that incumbrance and harbour for
worms, insects, Sec. will thrive much more luxuriantly than before.

THE VINEYARD.

Having given ample instructions last month for the mak-
ing of wines, curing of raisins, and preserving the fruit fresh for a
length, of time, b.c. it is unnecessary to touch upon those subjects
in this place; therefore, have only to refer you to the article Vine-
yard in page 487, &c. for information respecting any thing yet re-
maining to be done, of what was there recommended.

In the southern states. Vineyards may now be planted, and vines
propagated by cuttings, &c. and indeed where the winters are mild
and but little or no frosts, this is the most suitable season for so
doing, particularly towards the latter end of the month. But in
the middle states, the month of March, and in the eastern states, the
early part of April, will be the most preferable periods, in which to
perform this business.

Oct.] the vineyard. 531

The subject of planting and propagating the vine, being treated
of at full length in March, beginning at page 234, I refer you there-
to for the necessary information.

In the middle states, rooted vines may now be transplanted, if
necessity requires it, but in no other case would I recon)mend it;
and these should be protected by laying litter round their roots,
or some other suitable defence from the severity of the frosts.
Layers, however, may now be made with good prospects of suc-
cess; and if you find it more convenient to procure cuttings, at this
season than in spring, you may plant them; but observe that it
will be necessary to cover them liglitly with straw, fern, leaves of
trees, or some other light covering during winter, or many of
them will miscarry. Though these plants are extremely hardy
when once established, they are rather tender in their infancy, and
every advantage of season ought to be afforded them, especially in
those parts of the Union where the winters are severe.

As to the practice of pruning grape-vines in autumn, it is not
adviseable, except where the winters are very mild. In the
soutliern states this may be done, with great propriety, as soon in
this or the ensuing month as the foliage shall have been shed, but
by no means before, as while the leaves remain on, the vines will not
have done growing, and consequently the wood will not be sufficient-
ly ripe and hard.

For further observations, together with the methods of pruning,
see page 147, 8cc. See also, the Vineyard for next month.

Planting Willows for tying up the Grape-Vines, Sfc.

In the latter end of this, or the early part of next month, you
should make plantations of willows, for the purpose of tying up the
vines with the small flexible twigs thereof.

Osiers or willows are also very useful in a garden, for tying
the branches of espalier trees to trellises, binding up lettuces,
cabbages, endive, &c. for blanching, tying bundles of trees or shrubs,
making garden baskets, 8cc. so that a small plantation, or hedge-
row of willows would be very useful in every garden department.

The kinds most suitable for this purpose are the Salia: viminalisy
or true Osier; S. Jissu, or basket Osier; and S. vitillina, or Golden
Willow.

Willows of those kinds particularly, delight in low moist situa-
tions, (though they grow to good perfection in a strong loam)
consequently, soil that is generally useless or of but little value,
may be profitably occupied by them. Make choice of such ground
and plough it deep, if possible, for the reception of the cuttings;
if too wet for the plough, form it, with a spade and shovel, into
four feet wide ridges with deep trenches between, casting up the
earth out of the trenches to form the ridges high and rounding;
in each ridge plant two rows of cuttings, each row a foot from the
edge, and the sets two feet and a half distant from one another in
the row.

532 THE NURSERY. [Oct.

The cuttings or sets, should be about two feet long, made from
strong; shoots of two or three years' growth, and about two thirds of
each set, planted or drove into the earth, leaving the rest out to
form the stool; each of these will throw out several shoots, and if
kept free from weeds, for the ensuing season, they will provide for
themselves afterwards.

The year old shoots, being what are generally used for the va-
rious purposes noticed, the whole produce must be cut down
annually, either in autumn or spring, to promote such growths.
However, a sufficiency may be suffered to grow for two or three
years, when sets are wanted for an additional plantation.

If the ground can be ploughed, it will be attended with less trou-
ble, and the rows may be planted three feet asunder: the distance
of the sets from one another, in each row, should be about two feet
and a half.

I would advise to plant the cuttings with a dibble, in preference
to forcing them in, as by the latter method the bark would be
injured.

This work may be done with equal propriety, and sometimes
with more success in the early part of spring. Cuttings may also be
planted, at either season, in ilie face of moist ditches, where they
will succeed extremely well.

THE NURSERY.

Trenching and Dressing the Ground.

In the beginning of this month, continue to trench and prepare
the several quarters in which you intend to plant stocks, to graft
and bud the several sorts of fruit upon; and also for the various
other planting and sowing that may be necessary.

Carry dung into such parts of the Nursery as it is wanted, and
spread it upon the surface of the ground round the stems of young
trees; this will contribute to the preservation of their roots from
frost, the rains will wash in the salts to the roots of the trees, and in
spring, you may dig in the dung between the respective rows.

Propagating Trees and Shrubs by Layers.

Any time this month you may lay the various kinds, of trees and
shrubs that you wish to propagate in that way; for the methods
of doing which, together with several useful observations, see page,
287, &c.

Oct.] the NURSERY. 533

Towards the latter end of the month take off such layers of the
preceding year as are well rooted, trim their stems, and plant
them in nursery-rows, or elsewhere as may be necessary.

This is the best season to lay elms, limes, maples, and most kinds
of hardy forest-trees, and flowering-shrubs; for the moisture of the
ground during winter will prepare them for pushing out roots
early in the spring.

Propagating Trees and Shrubs by Cuttings,

This is a proper time to plant cuttings of all hardy trees and
shrubs, that will grow by that method, especially in the southern
states; but it will be necessary to plant them where water does not
lodge in winter. Poplars, willows, plane-trees, honeysuckles, &c.
will grow freely in this way; but for more particulars, see page 290.

Cuttings of all sorts planted a year ago, or last spring, that are
well rooted and have shot freely at top, may, towards the latler end
of this month, be transplanted, if necessary, into open nursery-rows,
to advance in growth and to have occasional training for the pur-
poses intended.

Sowing Haw and Holly Berries, Sfc.

In the southern states you may any time in this, or the three
ensuing months, if the ground is open, sow haw, holly, yew, and
mezerion berries, ash, hornbeam, and any other kind of seeds that
require a years previous preparation; but in the middle states, I
would recommend to defer the sowing of these till the latter end
of February, or very early in March, and in the eastern states,
as soon in the latter month as possible. Indeed it would not be
wrong to defer the sowing of them, even in the southern states,
till January or February, according to the respective climates,
always endeavouring to sow them before they begin to vegetate.

Observe that each kind has undergone a full year's preparation,
previous to sowing, as directed in the jYursery for February, and
March, where you will find ample instructions, for the cultivation
of these and many other kinds of trees and shrubs, and which I
would particularly recommend to your perusal at this time.

Sowing Oak Acorns, Chesniits, Wahiuts, Hickory-nuts, ^c.

The best season in the year for sowing the acorns of every kind
of oak, is immediately after they fall from the trees; for when kept
up much longer, especially in a dry state, they lose their vegetative
power.

The only evils they have to encounter by sowing them at this
season are, the depredations of mice, rats, and squirrels, &c. if these
animals can be caught, poisoned, or kept off by any means that
may be devised, the seeds should be sown immediately; but if not,
it will be better to preserve them till the early spring months, in
sand or earth, or in moss, and although they will soon sprout, their
progress in vegetation before the opening of spring, will not be such

584 THE NURSERY. [Oct.

as to do them any material injury, provided they are placed imme-
diately in the coldest place possible till winter, and further, that you
do not break the small radicles when planting them in spring.

The acorns, if sown or planted at this time, should be laid within
one inch of one another in drills about two feet apart, and covered
about an inch deep: here they may remain till they shall have had
two years' growth, when they must be taken up and planted into
nursery rows at proper distances, there to acquire a sufficient growth
and strength for a final transplanting, which will generally be the
case in about two or three years.

Chesnuts of every kind, walnuts, and hickory nuts, may be
planted now, or immediately after being ripe; they have the same
enemies to encounter as the acorns; but all these kinds will
keep well till spring in dry sand, or even in bags or boxes, and if
planted early in that season will vegetate freely.

But if you find it more convenient to plant the nuts in autumn,
let that be done, if possible, when they are perfectly ripe, and
in their outward covers or husks, the extreme bitterness of which
will be a good preservative against the attacks of vermin of every
kind.

When you desire to cultivate the Juglans I'egia, or European
walnut, for its fruit, and likewise any of the other species, make
choice of the best varieties of nuts, such as are large, thin shelled,
and have the finest flavoured kernels; for although the best sorts
will vary or degenerate, when raised from seeds, yet by planting the
most valuable varieties, there will be the better chance of having
good kinds continued.

For the method of planting, and the subsequent treatment of ches-
nuts, walnuts, Sec. see page 271.

JVote. When oaks, chesnuts, or walnuts. See. are planted exclu-
sively on account of their timber, it will be the better way, when it
can conveniently be done, to sow or plant the acorns and nuts where
tney are intended to remain for full and mature growth; for trees of
either of these kinds, seldom attain to as great magnitude after
having been transplanted, as if suffered to remain undisturbed where
the seeds where sown.

Transplanting Stocks, to Bud and Graft xipon.

About the latter end of this month, you may plant out into nur-
sery-rows, all the hardy kinds of seedling stocks, to bud and graft
the different varieties of fruits upon.

Let these be planted out in rows three feet asunder, and one foot
or more distant from one another in the rows.

Plant also for the purpose of stocks, suckers from the roots of
plums, codlins, pears, quinces, &c. but seedlings are much more
preferable if you are sufficiently supplied therewith.

Transplant likewise from nursery beds, and layer-stools, all the
well rooted cuttings and layers that were planted or layed a year
ago, or in the last spring, for the purpose of raising stocks for
fruit-trees; particularly quinces and codlins, to bud and graft dwarf

Oct.] the NURSERY. 535

pears and apples upon, in order to form dwarf trees for walls and es-
paliers, planting them in nursery-rows as above.

Planting hardy deciduous Trees, and Shrubs.

All manner of hardy deciduous trees and shrubs, may be planted
now into nursery-rows, or finally where they are to remain, imme-
diately after they have shed their leaves, or as soon as the general
foliage is turned yellow and on the decline; but observe that plant-
ing at this season, should always be done in ground that lies dry in
winter. When that is the case, the trees, shrubs, 8cc. will establish
new roots before they are overtaken by the heats of the ensuing
summer, and will require but very little trouble in watering.

Pruning.

In the latter part of this month, you may begin to prune and
reduce into proper form, most kinds of hardy forest and fruit trees,
flowering shrubs, &c. clearing their stems from lateral shoots, era-
dicating suckers, and dressing their heads in a neat and becoming
manner.

Planting hardy Evergreens.

Between the middle and latter end of this month you may plant
pines, firs, cedars, junipers, and every other kind of hardy evergreen
trees and shrubs. However, I would not advise to plant small seed'
lings of any kind at this season, especially in the middle and eastern
states, as many of them would be thrown oat of the ground by the
winter frosts, and most of them so loosened in the earth, as to be
subject to great injury from the parching winds in spring. Conse-
quently, March will be a more eligible season for this purpose.

Sowing Stones of Fruit' Trees.

If you are not apprehensive of the ravages of mice, rats, squir-
rels, 8cc. you may now sow the stones of plums, peaches, necta-
rines, apricots, &c. or you may, if you think it more prudent, pre-
serve them in sand, 8cc. as directed on former occasions till Fe-
bruary, or March.

These stones may now be sown pretty thick, in drills two feet
asunder, and covered from one to two inches deep, according to the
size of the respective kinds, and lightness of the soil; and at this
time twelve months, such of them as shall have attained to a good
growth may be transplanted into nursery rows.

Sowing Beech-mast, Maples, Sfc.

Beech-mast, maple, and several other kinds, may now be sown
as directed in Marqh, or they may be preserved in dry sand till that
season.

536 fHE PLEASURE, OR [Oct.

Kote. Many sorts of seeds may now be sown, but as I treated on
the subject of the jYursery at considerable length in March and there
noticed what kinds might be sown with safety in autumn, 1 refer you
thereto for particular information.

Sowing Apple, Crab, and Pear-Pumice.

The pumice of apples, crabs, and pears, after having been pressed
for cyder, or perry, may be sown, kernels and all, in four feet wide
beds, laid on very thick and covered about an inch deep with good
light earth. In spring the plants will rise freely and produce you
a good supply, either for stocks, or for making live hedges. See
page 264.

THE PLEASURE, OR FLOWER-GARDEN.

Auriculas, Polyanthuses, and Primroses.

The auriculas in pots, must now be kept very clean, all decayed
leaves picked off occasionally, and moderate waterings adminis-
tered as often as necessary, that the plants may attain due strength
before winter.

The choice polyanthuses, and double primroses, are to be treated
in every respect as the auriculas; the common kinds, may now
be planted in beds and borders of good ground, where they will
flower early in spring in tolerable perfection, especially if they have
a slight covering of straw or light dry litter laid over them dtiring
severe frosts.

The seedling plants of each of the above kinds must be kept
free from weeds, and filth of every sort; and receive regular but gen-
tle waterings, lo promote their growth and strength as much as pos-
sible before winter.

For the methods of preserving the choice kinds of auriculas,
polyanthuses, and primroses, during winter, see the Flower-Gar-
den in /November.

Carnations.

The carnation layers that were taken off in August or Septem-
ber, and all other choice carnations in pots, should now be kept
clean, and duly watered, and towards the latter end of the month be
placed in a warm situation, there to remain until disposed of as di-
rected in November.

The seedlings and common kinds, may be transplanted into
beds and borders where wanted.

Oct.] flower-garden. 537

Pinks.

Your choice double pinks in pots, will require the same treat-
ment as the carnations; but as pinks are extremely hardy, they may
be cultivated in great perfection in the open ground.

A good fresh loamy soil, trenched about two feet deep, well
pulverized, and manured with a stratum of cowdung, two year's old,
mixed with an equal portion of sound good earth; this stratum to
be about six inches thick, and placed about four inches below the
surface, is all the preparation or compost that appears necessary
for this flower.

The bed should be raised three or four inches above the surround-
ing paths, and its sides may be supported with an edging of boards,
to come up even with, or one inch higher than its surface; this last
for the sake of neatness, more than any particular utility it will be
of to the plants.

The plants intended for the principal bloom, should be planted
in it, in the first week of this month, or in September, as they do
not blow quite so strong, if removed late in the season: they should
be planted at the distance of nine inches from each other, and the
bed should be laid rather convex, or rounding, to throw off' excess
of rain; but it will require no other covering than a very slight one,
in case of severe frosts.

The bed should be kept free from weeds, and its surface stirred
up a little, if it inclines to bind.

Carnations will prosper very well, if treated in the above man-
ner.

The more indifferent kinds of pinks may be planted in the com-
mon borders, &c.

Planting Superb Tulip Roots.

The most proper season for planting tulip roots, in general, is
from the middle to the laiter end of this month, and indeed I should
prefer the middle to any other period; for about that time you
will perceive a circle round the lower end of each bulb, disposed to
swell, preparatory to the emission of fibres, and also a disposition at
the upper end of some, to show foliage.

By keeping the roots out of ground after this predisposition to
vegetation, they would be greatly weakened thereby.

The situation for the best bed oi superior tulifia, should be in an
open, airy part of the garden, protected at the same time, from
north and west winds by some distant shelter; when that is fixed
upon, the ground should be marked out, agreeably to its intended
dimensions, and the soil taken out twenty inches deep; the bottom
is then to be filled up with sound fresh earth, ten inches thick, upon
which is to be placed a stratum of two year's old roiton cow-dung and
earth of the above description, one half of each, well mixed together
and laid on twelve inches thick; upon this is to be placed another
stratum of the same kind of earth as that of the bottom; this
latter, is only to be two inches thick at the sides, and three in the
middle of the bed, which will give it a small degree of convexity.

3 Y

538 THE PLEASURE, OR [Oct.

The bed should be thus prepared a week or ten days previous to
planting the roots, in order to give it time to settle, so as to be
about two inches higher than the circumjacent paths; but if heavy
rains intervene, between this preparation of the bed and planting,
it will be proper to keep them off, in order to preserve the earth
from becoming too compact, by a redundancy of moisture, for the
young fibres to pass freely through it.

On the day made choice of for planting, rake the surface of the
bed smooth, and level any inequalities, still preserving its convexity,
and mark the exact situation for every root upon it. The proper
distance between each root, is seven inches every way.

A bed consisting of seven rows, makes the most grand appear-
ance, when it is of sufficient length, with a path round it about two
and a half or three feet wide; but where the number of roots is
small, five rows may suffice, and the path, in that case, may either
extend quite round the bed, or only on one side, at pleasure.

If the bed consists of seven rows it should consequently be fifty
inches wide, which will allow a space of four inches between the
outside rows and the sides of the bed; but if the bed contains only
five rows, it will only require to be three feet wide, to give the roots
similar distances.

Having sprinkled a little clean sand where the roots are to be
set, place them with great exactness, and add some very sandy
earth, so as to completely envelope each root in a little cone of it;
then cover the whole very carefully, with strong, sound, fresh
loam, about four inches thick or a little better, if the roots are strong,
so as to allow the covering to be from three and a half to four
inches thick, after the earth shall have settled, still observing to pre-
serve the original convexity of the bed.

The tallest growing kinds should be placed in the middle, and
the lower towards the outsides. No tulip root, whatever may be
its size or strength, should be planted more than four inches deep
from the upper side of the root; nor should any blooming root be
planted less than three inches deep, however small it may be. The
soil made use of for covering the bulbs, should be frequently turned
over, and thoroughly exposed to the sun and air, some time before it
is made use of, that it may be rendered perfectly sweet, and free
from the acrid quality that most soils are subject to, when taken
considerably below the surface.

If the bed is only to contain five rows, with a path in the front,
and not behind, then it will be proper to plant the smallest and low-
est growing kinds, in the front, next the path, and so gradually to
increase in the size to the fifth, or last row, which should contain
the strongest and tallest of all. Board edgings may be placed round
the beds, as high or an inch higher, than the surface; this will not
only keep the earth from crumbling down from the outside rows,
but give a degree of neatness to the whole.

When the operation of planting is concluded, in order to pre-
serve the bed from heavy rains, or severe frosts, it should be arched
over with hoops at convenient distances, on which to lay mats or

Oct.] flower-garden. 539

canvas on such emergencies; hut it will not be necessary to defend
it from moderate rains or slight frosts: for too frequent and long
covering will deprive the roots of the due action and influence of
the air, which ought to be avoided as much as possible: it were
even better not to cover at all, than over do it to the certain detri-
ment of the plants.

Having procured roots of the finest sorts, and pursuing the pre-
ceding instructions, you may depend on having those incomparable
flowers in the greatest perfection possible.

The common kinds of tulips, being of little value, may be planted
in small patches of three, four, or five roots together, around the
borders of the garden, or pleasure ground, and covered the same
depth as the others.

Planting the best Hyacinth Roots.

The roots of hyacinths may be planted, with good expectation of
success, at any time from the beginning of this month, to the
middle of November; but I would prefer the middle of the
present month, as being the best period in which these roots
can be planted; for about that time they will show a natural
inclination to vegetate, manifested by a swelling of the circle from
whence the fibres proceed, which will be soon followed by an ac-
tual appearance of their points, together with that of the foliage at
the other extremity of the root, in the form of a small cone of a
greenish colour.

The bed on which the finest sorts are to be planted should be
situated in rather a dry and airy part of the garden; a southern as-
pect is to be preferred, sheltered on the north and north-west by
walls, trees, or buildings, at a distance from it proportionate to their
elevation; that is, the distance of the bed from either, should be
equal to the height of the wall, fence, or hedge, &c.

When the situation is determined on, the dimensions of the bed
should be marked out, and the soil entirely taken away, to the depth
of at least two feet; the earth in the bottom should then be dug and
well pulverized, for about nine inches deep, and the space above
filled with the following compost.

One third sea, or river sand. One third fresh, sound earth. One
fourth rotten cow dung at least two years old; and one twelfth of
earth of decayed leaves.

The fresh sound earth of the compost, should be of the best
quality that the garden or adjacent country affords, and entirely
free from noxious vermin of every description. These ingredients
should be well mixed and incorporated a considerable time before
wanted, and about ten days previous to planting, the bed should be
filled up with the compost, to about three inches above the level of
the path on the south or front side, and seven aiches on the north
side, so as to form a regular slope, or inclination towards the
sun.

On planting the roots the surface of the bed should be covered
with fresh sandy earth about one inch thick raked perfectly smooth

540 'JfHE PLEASURE, OR [Oct.

and even, and have the exact situation for every bulb marked on it,
as follows.

R B

W

R B W

R B W

R B

W

R B

W R B

W R B

W

R B

W

R B W

R B W

R B

W

R B

W R B

W R B

W

R B

W

R B W

R B W

R B

W

R B

W R B

W R B

W

This plan, on minute investigation, will appear superior to any
other that can be devised for simplicity and an elegant and advan-
tageous display of the colours; each bulb, those of the outside
rows excepted, will be in the centre of a hexagon, and the whole
at equal distances from each other. The width of the surface of
the bed is to be four feet, the six rows along it eight inches asunder,
and the outside rows each, four inches from the sides of the bed;
consequently the space between the centre of each bulb will be
about nine inches and a quarter. The letters R, B, W, denote the
colour of the flower to be placed there, viz, Red, Blue, or
White. Under these three heads, all hyacinths may be compre-
hended, except a few sorts of yellow, which may be classed with
the whites.

On planting the hyacinths, a little clean sand should be placed un-
derneath, and likewise upon the roots, to prevent the earth adhering
too close to them; the whole are then to be covered with sound,
fresh, sandy earth, from three to four mches deep, according to the
size of the bulbs; when this is completed, the bed will be about six
or seven inches above the level of the walk in front, or on the south
side, and about tenor eleven inches on the north side; it should
be supported all round with a strong frame of thick boards, or
with brickwork; this frame should be six inches, or more, higher
all round than the surface, and of course, sloping towards the front,
to support such covering as may be necessary for the preservation
of the roots from heavy rains and severe frosts. For their further
treatment, see the ensuing months.

The extraordinary preparation and trouble above recommended,
are only necessary to bring the finest kinds of hyacinths to the best
possible perfection; but the nearer you can make it convenient to
approach to said method, in the cultivation of all the other varie-
ties, the greater perfection you may expect to have them in: this
however, must be governed by circumstances, and you need not
despair of having very fine flowers in any good, rich, kitchen- garden

Oct.] flower-garden. 541

soil, that lies dry and inciines a little to sandj and even without any
kind of protection during winter.

The common sorts of hyacinths, of every species and variety,
may be planted m open beds, or in small clumps round the borders,
three, four, or five roots in a place, and covered from three to four
inches deep, according to the strength of the roots and lightness of
the soil.

Planting Ranunculuses.

Ranunculus roots may either be planted before or after winter:
if the soil and situation is remarkably cold and wet, it will be better
to defer plardhig till the first opening of spring, but then the ear-
liest opportunity of planting them should be embraced.

In favourable situations, and where due attention can be paid to
the protection of the roots from severe frosts, the early part of this
month, is the most preferable period and should be embraced, as
the roots will have more time to vegetate, and form themselves, and
will, of consequence, bloom stronger, and earlier, than those planted
in spring.

Tlie ranunculuses are originally natives of a warm climate,
where they blow in the winter, or more rainy season of the year:
they are of course partial to coolness and moisture exempt from
wet and frost, which- the more delicate sorts cannot bear, in any con-
siderable degree without injury.

A fresh, strong, rich, loamy soil, is preferable to all others for
ranunculuses.

The bed should be dug from eighteen inches to two feet deep,
and not raised more than four inches above the level of the walks,
to preserve a moderate degree of moisture: at about five inches
below the surface should be placed a stratum of two year old rotten
cow dung, mixed with earth, six or eight inches thick; but the
earth above this stratum where the roots are to be planted, must
be free from dung, which would prove of more injury than benefit,
if too near them. The fibres will draw sufficient nourishment from
it at the depth above mentioned; but if the dung was placed deeper
it would not receive so much advantage from the action of the air,
which is an object of some importance.

The surface of the bed should be raked perfectly even and flat,
and the roots planted in rows at the distance of about five or six
inches from one another. It is better to plant in shallow trenches,
made nearly two inches deep, than to make holes for the reception
of the roots: there should be a little clean sand sprinkled in the
trench, and the roots placed with their claws downwards, each dis-
tant from the other about three or four inches according to its size
and strength: when the roots are thus laid in, fill the trenches up
level, with the same earth that was taken out, so as to cover the'
roots exactly one inch and a half deep, which is the only true depth
to produce a good bloom: it is pointed out by nature in a singular
manner; for when these roots have been planted either too shal-
low, or too deep, in either case, a second root is generally formed
at a proper depth, by which the plant is weakened to such a degree,

542 THE PLEASURE, OR [Oct.

that it seldom survives a repetition of it. It will be of considerable
service to have the bed framed round with boards, or brickwork,
a few inches higher than its surface, in front, and rising gradually
to the back part, in order to make it the more convenient to protect
the roots from severe frosts, as directed in the following months.

Planting Aneniones.

Anemones require nearly the same treatment as ranunculuses,
are hardier, and consequently, may be planted in the autumn with
more safety; the most eligible period is between the first and
fifteenth of this month, for if the winter sets in early and proves
severe, late planted roots will not have time to vegetate before
frosty weather takes place; in which case, there will be great danger
of their perishing, as they are then replete with moisture, and in a
state of inactivity, which renders not only them but all other roots,
more susceptible of injury from frost, and more subject to mouldi*
ness, than after vegetation has commenced. To avoid which, as
much as possible, a suitable covering or protection must be put on
and taken off the beds, as often and in such proportion, as the exi-
gency or circumstances of the case may require.

The beds should consist of the same kind of soil, and be prepared
in the same manner as for ranunculuses; the roots should be at
nearly similar distances from each other, and be planted in the same
manner, except that they require to be covered rather deeper; that
is, they should be planted two inches deep. It requires some care
and attention to distinguish which side of the root is to be placed
uppermost, especially if the small thread-like fibres had been entire-
ly cleaned off, when the roots were taken up.

The roots are in general rather flat, and their eyes, from whence
the stems and flowers proceed, are easily distinguished on one side
of the root, which of course should be planted uppermost. For
their further treatment, see the ensuing months.

Planting various kinds of Bulbous-rooted Flowers.

A good, sound, fresh soil, either of the black or loamy kind, (with
the addition of a little coarse sea or river sand, placed round the
roots on planting) and manured with rotten cow-dung, two years
old at lcc.3t, if the soil and situation be dry and warm, or rotten horse-
dung if it be cold and moist, is all the compost or preparation required
for the greater part of those flowers; observing that the dung should
never come in contact with the bulbs, or be placed at so great
a depth from the surface of the soil as to lose the advantage of the
due action of the air upon it, which would render it poisonous
instead of nutricious: in short it should never be placed more than
eight or ten inches deep upon any occasion, where it can possibly be
avoided.

The Polyanthus-Narcissus consists of many varieties, each
sort produces several flowers on one stalk, the roots may be planted
any unie tuis month, about three, or four inches deep; they sue-

Oct.] flower-garden. 543

ceed best in rather a warm dry soil and situation; but if the soil
happens to be the reverse, the bed should be raised seven or eight
inches above the common level, and in either case, it would be well
to cover the bed with straw in case of severe frost, for the roots of
these are more tender and subject to be injured by the severity of
the winter, than either hyacinths or tulips. The bed should be
formed rather rounding to cast off the wet, for which a good fall or
descent should be in some convenient direction. The roots may
remain two or three years in the ground without being disturbed;
but then it will be necessary to take them up to separate their off-
sets, which by being longer connected with the old roots, would cause
them to blow small and weak.

Double-Narcissus (Daffodils) consist of several varieties; they
are hardier than the former, the Italian excepted, and may be
treated in a similar manner, but are in less danger from the effects
of frost.

Jonquils, English, Spanish, and Persian Bulbous Iris; the three
first, consist of several varieties, they may be planted from two to
three inches deep, according to the looseness of the soil and strength
of the bulbs, and treated in the same manner as the Polyanthus-Nar-
cissus: they are all hardy.

Crown Imperials, Lilies, Paeonias, and the Ornithogalum pyra-
midale, or star of Bethlehem, should be planted now, if not done
before, and covered about four inches deep; these do not require to
be taken up oftener than once in two or three years, and then only
to separate their offsets.

Martagons (lilies with revolute petals) consist of many species
and varieties, and may be treated as other lilies; they however make
the best appearance in beds by themselves, and will grow stronger
if the ground is well manured and the roots planted from five to
six inches deep. The lilies called Martagons arc, the Lilium Chal-
cedonicum, or scarlet Martagon Lily, L. Cateabai, or Catesby's Lily,
L fwmfionium or Pomponian Lily, L superbum or Superb Lily,
/.. Martagon^ or purple Martagon Lily, L. Canadense, or Canada
Martagon Lily, and L. jafionicum, or Japan white Lily, with their
varieties; the latter obtained by sowing the seeds of the different
species.

If not done in the preceding months, you should no longer de-
fer the planting of spring crocuses, snowdrops, hardy Gladioluses,
Persian Fritillarias, Erythroniums, Pancratium maratimum, Or-
chises, Limadorum tuberosum, Snakes-head Iris, musk, feathered,
grape, and other Hyacinths; the Scilla maritima, or officinal squill,
Scilla peruviana, or Starry Hyacinth, together with all the other
kinds of hardy bulbous, or tuberous-rooted flowers which you intend
planting before spring. These may be planted separately in beds,
or along the borders of the flower-garden and pleasure grounds,
and covered from two to three or four inches deep, over the crowns
of the roots, according to their respective size and strength, and the
lightness or stiffness of the soil.

In planting any of the above or other sorts in borders, observe
that the lowest growing kinds are to be planted next the walks, and

544 ^^^^ PLEASURE, OR [Oot.

the larger farther back, in proportion to their respective growths,
that the whole may appear to advantage, and none be concealed
from the view. Likewise observe to diversify the kinds and co-
lours, so as to display, when in bloom, the greatest possible variety
of shades and contrasts.

In assemblage with other flowers in the borders, these should be
planted in small clumps of six, seven, or eight inches in diameter,
three, four, five, or more roots in each, according to size and growth,
and these at suitable distances from one another, say one, two, or three
yards. Some of the common anemones and i-anunculuses may
also be planted with those roots in the borders, either in rows to-
wards the edges, or in small clumps or patches as above.

As much elegance of taste and fancy is necessary, and may be dis-
played in setting off a border of intermixed flowers to advantage, as .
perhaps in any other part of gardening.

Sowing seeds of Bulbous rooted flowers, Sfc.

You may still continue to sow the seeds of bulbous and tuberous
rooted flowers, as directed in page 499.

Transplant Perennial and Biennial Flower Roots.

The entire of this month is a very proper time to divide and
transplant the various kinds of hardy perennial and biennial flower-
roots, as noticed in page 501, which see.

Observe to plant the different sorts in a diversified order, the
low growing kinds next the walks, and the largest more remote
therefrom, so that the whole may rise in a regular gradation, as
they advance in growth.

Collect ornamental plants from the woods, fit-Ids, and swamps,
as directed in page 469; this will be a very good time to procure
the late flowering kinds, many of which are extremely beautiful.

Double Daisies, ^c.

About the middle of this month, prepare a warm border in a
south aspect, on which to plant the double daisies that you pre-
served in shaded situations during summer; the bed should be
raised four or five inches above the common level, and if surround-
ed with a frame, the better; take up the roots with balls of earth
and plant them on this bed in rows, five or six inches plant from
plant, every way; give them water immediately, and if shaded
from the sun for a week or two, it would be of considerable service.

Primroses, polyanthuses, and common auriculas, may be treated
in this way. For their further management see the ensuing months.

Stock -gillyflowers, and Wallflowers.

Any double stocks, and wallflowers, that you have growing in
beds, or borders, should be potted in the beginning of this month.

Oct.] FLOWER-GARDEN. 545

if not done in September, and placed in the shade for about three
weeks, then removed to a warm aspect there to remain till it is
found necessary to house, or place them in a frame.

Planting Bulbous roots in pots and glasses for flowering early.

In the beginning of this month, you should plant some of the
earliest kinds of tulips, hyacinths, polyanthus narcissus, &c.
in pots of light, rich, sandy earh, one, two, or three roots in each,
and of different colours, in order to force them into an early
bloom in winter. If the pots are large, the roots may be covered
one inch above their crowns, but if small the bare covering of the
crowns will be sufficient, in order to give the fibres the more room
to extend themselves.

Ranunculuses, anemones, crocuses, snowdrops, dwarf Persian
Irises, and any other early blooming kinds, may be planted in pots
for the same purpose, covering them generally about an inch deep
over their crowns.

When the roots are planted, the pots are to be sunk to their
rims in a good stout garden-frame, on a bed of very light, sandy
earth, elevated above the common level of the ground, where they
are to be kept gently moist and no more; but they must be care-
fully protected from heavy torrents of rain, which would tend
greatly to rot or weaken the bulbs. The glasses are to be kept
off, except in rainy weather till the approach of frost, after which
the bed must be defended therefrom, as directed in the following
months.

In this month you should put the bulbs of tulips, hyacinths,
jonquils, narcissuses, Sec. in bulb-glasses filled with water, to
flower in rooms early in spring: the glasses should be then placed
where they may have as much free air as possible, while the weather
continues mild; if they are placed near the windows of a Green-
House, where they may have free air in favourable Aveather, and
be protected from cold and frost, they will produce fine, strong flow-
ers, and at a very acceptable season.

The water should be changed as often as it turns greenish, and
the glasses well washed inside. Particular care must be taken not
to suffer the water to be frozen in winter, which would not only
injure the roots, but burst the glasses.

Potting Roses, Sfc.for Forcing.

Pot roses, honey suckles, double flowering almonds, peaches,
cherries, and thorns, and any other desirable shrubs, whether ever-
green or deciduous, either for the convenience of affording them
protection in winter, decorating any compartments in spring or
summer, or for placing some of them in the forcing departments
in December, or January, to force an early blooni. This must be
done with care, not injuring the roots, and taking up as much earth
with them as possible. When potted place them in the shade for ten
or twelve days after, or until you find it necessary to house, or other-
wise protect them.

3 Z

546 I'HE PLEASURE-GARDEN. [Oct.

Prune Flowering Shrubs.

This is a very proper season to prune roses, lilacs, honeysuckles,
and indeed all kinds of hardy trees and shrubs, whether deciduous
or evergreen. Let this be performed with a sharp knife, and not
with garden shears, as sometimes practised. But to avoid repetition
I refer you for further instructions on this head to page 165.

All suckers which arise from the roots should now be taken clean
away, for when suffered to remain they starve the old plants and
prevent their flowering; many kinds of shrubs, for instance the lilac,
will send forth great numbers of suckers from their roots, which if
not annually taken off will spread over the ground to the great in-
jury of your plants. These suckers, if wanted, maybe planted in
nursery-rows, for a year or two, and will then answer for renewing
the old or for forming new plantations.

Forming JV*eu> Ornamental Plantations, Sfc.

This being a very proper season for laying out and planting plea-
sure grounds, I refer you for general information on these subjects
to page 63, Sec. which though given in a month not favourable for
such work, in the middle or eastern states, I considered it a period
in which there would be leisure time for contemplating the designs,
and making preparations for the carrying of them into execution, on
the opening of spring.

All kinds of hardy deciduous trees and shrubs may be planted as
soon in this month as they shall have shed their leaves; the ever-
green kinds may be planted towards the latter end thereof, always,
but particularly for the latter, making choice of moist or cloudy
weather, if such shoukl occur in due season.

In this phice I think it proper to reiimrk, that I always have had
better success in the planting of evergreens in general, when done
in the spring of the year, immediately before their vegetation com-
menced, than at any other season.

The early part of next month will be an excellent time, to plant
all kinds of deciduous forest-trees, and flowering shrubs, 8cc. that
shall r.ot have shed their foliage before that time.

F'.r general directions respecting the best methods of planting
trees and shrubs of every kind, see page 301.

Propagate Trees and Shrubs.

Various kinds of trees and shrubs, growing in the pleasure-ground,
borders. Sec. m-.y now be propag -ted by suckers, layers, and cuttings;
but having described the nieti.ods of doing this in the Nursery for
March, a repetition is unnecessary in this place.

Oct.] the GREEN-HOUSE. 547

Flanting Box, and other Edgings.

Boxedg;ings may be planted any time this month with good suc-
cess, if some care be tuken to give them shade and water for about
a month, for the method, see page 3t)2.

Many other kinds may now be planted for edgings, but particu-
larly those mentioned in page 556, which see.

Plant Hedges.

This is a fine season to plant all sorts of live hedges, whether for
fences, shade, or ornament; especially ground hedges, or such as
are to be established on the plain surface of the earth; but having
treated on this subject at full length, in the JVursery ftii- March^ be-
ginning at page 260, to which I refer you, it is unnecessary to repeat
here what has been said before.

It may however, be proper to observe, that evergreen hedges are,
generally, more successful when planted in spring, than at this sea-
son; notwithstanding, in cases of necessity, I would not hesitate to
plant them now.

Clipping Hedges and Edgings.

If any hedges or box edgings want trimming, let them be clipped
early in this month, observing the directions given in page 503.

Be very particular to finish the clipping of evergreen hedges^ as
early in the month as possible, for if cut too late the cold will occa-
sion the cut leaves, and others suddenly exposed thereto, to change
to a rusty disagreeable colour, which they will not recover before
the ensuing spring.

Ordinary Work.

Mow grass-walks and lawns close and even, and roll them, in
order that they should appear neat all winter; clean and roll your
gravel walks once a week; hoe, vveed, cut, rake, and carry away
clean off the ground, all weeds, decayed flower-stems, fallen leaves,
8cc. prepare ground by trenchinsj:, laying it up in ridges, &c. for
spring planting, which will be of considerable advantage, both in
meliorating the ground and expediting your business at that sea-
son.

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

Having in the preceding month page 506, intimated the
proper time for taking in the Green-House plants, in the eastern
states; I shall now notice the period for doing that business in the

548 THE GREEN-HOUSE. [Oct.

middle states. In the southern states, the plants may he left out a
few days later than hereafter mentioned, say from four to ten, ac-
cording to climate, season, and local situation.

Al)out the first day of this month, if not done before, take into
the Green-House, all the more hardy species of Cactuses, Aloes^
Mesembryanthemums, Sedums, Stapelias, Agaves, Cotyledons,
Cycas revoluta, and other succulent and tender plants; place them
in front where they can have plenty of air in mild wealher, and give
them water but sparingly.

Let it be observed for the benefit and encouragement of those
who have no Hol-Houses, that although all the above generas, or
families, are commonly considered as Hot- House plants, the far
greater number of species thereunto belonging, may be preserved
in excellent perfection in a good Green-House, and also many
other plants hitherto considered as too tender to be preserved
therein: experience is the true criterion, and where there are du-
plicates of doubtful plants, an ingenious gardener, will make an ex-
periment with one of each. Several kinds of plants commonly
kept in Hot-Houses, would thrive much better in a well construct-
ed Green-House.

Between the sixth and tenth of this month, according to the sea-
son, situation, and shelter of the place, you should take in your
orange, lemon, citron, lime and shaddock trees, and also your
Geraniums, and every other sort of plant that slight frosts could
injure, or discolour the leaves thereof. Myrtles and the more
hardy kinds will not be in much danger before the middle of the
month; nor will the hardiest sorts, such as Prunus lusitanica, or
Portugal laurel, Prunus Lauro-Cerasus, or Levant laurel, Vibur-
num Tinus, or Laurustinus, Arbutus Unedo, or strawberry-tree,
Lagerstroemia indica. Daphne odora, Fuchsia coccinea, Cupressus
sempervirens, Hydrangea hortensis, &c. before the twentieth or
twenty-fifth thereof: indeed in warm soils and situations, most of
these would bear the winters of the middle states, in the open
ground, if sheltered with mats or straw. Sec.

Before they are taken in, pick off" all decayed leaves, prune any
decayed, ill formed, disorderly, or irregular shoots or branches,
and stir the earth a little in the tops of the tubs or pots. Such as
appear weakly, should have some of the old earth taken out and the
vacancy filled up with fresh compost.

In placing the plants in the Green-House, be particular to ar-
range them in regular order, the tallest behind, and the others ac-
cording to their height, in regular gradation down to the lowest in
front; being careful to dispose the different sorts in such varied
order, as that the foliage may effect a striking contrast and variety,
by intermixing the broad and narrow leaved, the simple and com-
pound leaved, the light and dark green, the silvery. Sec. in order
that the whole collection may exhibit a conspicuous and agreeable
diversity.

When all are thus arranged give their heads a good watering,
which will wash off" any dust they have contracted, refresh them
considerably, and add lustre and beauty to their foliage; then wash

Oct.] the GREEN-HOUSE. 549

clean, and wipe dry, all the stage, benches, floor, &c. after which
the whole will assume a neat, gay, lively, and becoming appear-
ance.

The plants now should have as much free air as possible, during
the continuance of mild weather, for if kept too close the damps oc-
casioned by a copious perspiration, would cause many of their leaves
to become mouldy and drop off, and besides, they would be less
hardy on the approach of winter: therefore, on every warm or mild
day keep the windows open; and even on mild dry nights, during
the rem.ainder of this montli, you may slide down the upper front
lights, so as to admit a little air at top. But observe to keep the
windows close shut, in cold weather, frosty nights, and during the
continuance of cold rains or fogs.

It will still be necessary to water the plants frequently, but
moderately, especially the shrubby kinds; the succulent sorts will
not require it so often.

Pick off from time to time, all decayed leaves, and keep every
part of the house constantly clean and free from filth of any kind.

The deciduous Green-house plants, such as the Lagerstramia
indica, Pumca, granata, or double flowering pomegranate, Croton
sebiferum, or tallow-tree, &c. may be placed on a platform erected
at the back of the stage, as noticed in page 90, or they niay be pre-
served very well during the winter, in a dry warm cellar, that has
windows to admit light, air, &c. as necessity may require.

Preserving Green-House Plants in Garden-Frames.

There are but few Green-House plants of a small size, but may
be preserved during winter, in great perfection, in garden frames
of the following construction.

The frame should be erected on a bed of earth in a remarkably
dry and warm exposure; it should be made of strong planks, four,
five, or six feet high in the back (according to the size of the plants)
eight or nine inches high in front, and four or five feet wide, with
the ends sloping accordingly. The length should be in proportion
to the number of plants you have to winter, but at every nine or ten
feet, there should be partitions or stays in the inside for the support
of the back.

Round this frame you are to form another, at the distance of two
feet therefrom, made of any kind of rough boards, supported by
posts, and of the same height. The vacancy between both frames
is to be filled up to the top with tanner's bark, dry litter, leaves of
trees, or any other substance that will keep the frost from pene-
trating to the plants.

Your frame being thus made, plunge the pots containing the
plants, to their rims, in the inside, either in tan, or light sandy
earth, placing the lowest in front and the tallest behind, and cover
the whole with well glazed and well fitted sashes. During the
most severe winter, the generality of Green-House plants may be
effectually preserved in this, or the like frame, by laying on as oc-
casion requires, a sufficient quantity of mats over the glasses, and
over these a covering of boards.

550 THE HOT-HOUSE. [Oct.

The plants arc to have light and air given to them at every fa-
vourable opportunity, and should be treated, generally, as directed
for those in the Green-House.

Many other similar contrivances may be made, and wiih the de-
sired effect, as nothing more is necessary for the preservation of
these plants, than light, air, a moderate share of moisture, and an
effectual protection from the frost.

THE HOT-HOUSE.

Fine-Jipplts.

In the early part of this month, the pine plants that are to
produce fruit next season, should be removed out of the nursery-
stove, &c. into the fruiting-house; but previous to this, you
should take out of the pit all the old bark, and fill it with new, fresh
tan, previously prepared as directed last month, page 509: ob-
serve not to put it into the pit in too wet a state, for in that case it
would be a long time before it would come to a kindly heat, and
sometimes not at all, so as to answer the end.

Some people sift the old bark, and use the coarse part with
new, about one half of each; but if you can conveniently procure
a sufficiency of new tan to fill the pit entirely, it will answer much
better for this purpose.

When the bed begins to heat and that the warmth has reached
the surface, bring in your fruiting plants and plunge them in the
bark bed to their rims; or if you are apprehensive of the new bark
heating too violently at first, plunge the pots only half way for
about a fortnight; if however you plunge them wholly at first, you
must examine the bed frequently and if you find the heat at any
time violent, then draw the pots up half way, or quite out of the
tan as you see convenient, to prevent its burning the roots of the
plants, and plunge them again as soon as it can be done with safety.

The plants thus finally placed in the fruiting house, are to get
the usual and necessary attendance; air must be admitted every
mild and w^arm day, and gentle waterings given when necessary.

Towards the latter end of the month, the nights will be grow-
ing very cold, and sometimes it may be found necessary to kin-
dle a small fire in the evening; but you should never resort to
this, while the heat of the house keeps up at night to 52° of Fah-
renheit, which will generally be the case during the whole of this
month if you take care to shut the house in the afternoon when
pretty warm; but should cold, cloudy weather, continue for a few
days, it may render a little fire necessary notwithstanding.

Succession Pines,

The succession-house should now be replenished from the pits,
he. with the pines next in growth to the fruiti||g plants taken

Oct.] the HOT-HOUSE. 551

out of it, also the younger successions in the next advancing stage,
should be placed in the pits, frames, or other winter departments.

All these will now require to be renewed with a proper quanti-
ty of new tan, one half at least, so as to support a regular heat for
a considerable time, the whole of the old tun must be sifted, and
what goes through the screen, may be used for covering beds where-
in are planted bulbous roots, &:c. to protect them from frost: as
much new tan previously made sufficiently dry, must be added to
the coarse part, as will till up the pits again a little above the top,
mixing both well together as you proceed in the filling. This done
plunge the pots as directed on other occasions.

General Care.

The pines and all the other exotics, must have regular care and
attendance; let water be given once or twice a week to some, oftener
to others, as you see necessary, being careful not to give too much
at a time, for that would not only injure many plants, but destroy
the heat of the bark-bed.

Admit fresh air into the house every calm, or warm day, espe-
cially when the sun shines, by sliding open some of the glasses from
nin^or ten o'clock, till two, three or four, always observing to
cloJS the house in the afternoon while the air is warm, to super-
cede the necessity of fire, as long as possible; and if you must have
recourse to it, towards the latter end of the months use it but mo-
derately at this season.

The advantages of keeping the house as cool as may be consis-
tent v/ith the safety of the plants, during this and the next month,
are very obvious; all ihe plants are gradually hardened and rendered
thereby capable of bearing the vicissitudes of the winter season, bet-
ter than if they were drawn up tender and weakly by too much
heat; but the pines in particular, if forced at this season, would,
many of them, start to fruit at an untimely period, which would
get stunted and misshapen before the commencement of the free
spring vegetation, and would consequently be totally lost, or not
Avorth their room in the house.

When t!ie leaves of any plants decay, they should be picked off,
and the house kept constantly clear from fallen leaves, cobwebs, or
an'y other filth; which not only renders the house neat, but is very
necessary to preserve the plants in health.

Wintering Mot-House plants in Garden-Frames.

There are few tropical plants but may be preserved during win-
ter, while in a small state, in garden-frames well constructed and
attended; so that an ingenious and careful gardener may not despair
of preserving the most rare plants in winter, without the aid of a
Hot-House; and even M'htre there is one, and the stock of plants
too numerous, such auxiliary convenience wili be found of conside-
rable utility.

552 THE HOT-HOUSE. [Oct.

A frame for this purpose should be made about nine or ten feet
long, four to five wide, three and a half high in front, and five in the
back part, with sashes well glazed and fitted as close and neat as
possible, so as to slide up and down freely. This frame should be
placed in a dry well sheltered situation, exposed fully to the south,
and where it can have the benefit of the sun during the whole day.
It should be filled with fresh well prepared tan, to the depth of
three feet when settled, and the pots plunged therein to their rims,
the smallest sized plants in front, the largest towards the back
part.

The frame should be entirely surrounded with a large quantity
of the fallen leaves of trees to its full height, having still more in
reserve to add, as the others sink and contract in bulk, in conse-
quence of fermentation and pressure; always keepng them full up
to the tofi of the frame on every side; the leaves will soon heat and
cause the tan to ferment, and between both a fine glow of warmth
■will be kept up in the frame during the whole winter; this with the
assistance of a suitable covering of mats, boards, &c. at night and
in severe weather, will keep the most tender plants in health and
good condition.

Linings of hot horse-dung may be substituted in place of leaves,
but the latter is preferable, on account of its slow, steady and long
continued heat.

*.

Oak Leaves used as a substitute for Tan.

As oak leaves abound in almost every part of the United States,
it is of some importance to know that they may be used in forcing
pits of every kind, in place of tanner's bark; and with advantage,
their heat being constant, regular, and continuing for a long time,
often for an entire year; whereas bark generally turns cold soon after
its violent heat is gone off, which obliges the gardener to fork it up
frequently, in order to revive the heat.

The sooner the leaves are raked up after they fall from the trees,
the better, as the quality and fermenting substance, will naturally
decrease during the time they are exposed to the weather.

When raked up they should be carried immediately into some
open shed, and there thrown into a heap to settle and ferment.—
In this place tread them well, and water them a little if you find
they are rather dry. The heap should be at least six or seven
feet in thickness, and covered with old mats as well to promote a
general fermentation as to prevent the upper leaves from being
blown away by the wind. They should be suffered to remain in this
state for four or five weeks, by which time they will be properly
prepared for the pits, and will not settle down much after. In put-
ting them into the pits, if they appear dry, water them a little and
tread them in layers, exceedingly well, till the pits are quite full: then
cover the whole with tan to the thickness of two inches, and tread
it well till the surface becomes smooth and even. On this place your
pots of pines or other tender plants in the manner they are to stand,
filling up the spaces between them with tan as you proceed, row by
row.

Nov.] THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. 553

After this, the leaves require no farther trouble the whole season
through, as they will retain a constant and regular heat for twelve
months, without either stirring or turning.

Leaves mixed with stable dung make excellent hot-beds, which
preserve their heat much longer than when made of dung only.

NOVEMBER.

WORK TO BE DONE IN THE KITCHEN-GARDEN.

AS this is a period in which much may be done, towards the
laying out and preparing of new Kitchen-Gardens for the ensuing
season, &c. I refer you for general instructions on that subject, to
page 108, &c.

Spinach, Corn-Salladj and Winter- Cresses.

You should now be very attentive to the keeping of your winter
spinach free from weeds, and to the thinning of the plants where
they stand too close; otherwise they will not be sufficiently strong
and firm to endure the severity of the approaching frosts.

Corn-sallad and winter-cresses, should be treated as directed for
spinach, and for the same reason; but the distance of two or three
inches, plant from plant, will be sufficient for these. This should
be done early in the month, for it is not prudent either to thin or
weed succulent plants of any kind, immediately on the eve of a
severe frost, as the sudden exposure of the shaded and tender parts
to it, would prove very destructive.

Winter-dressing of Asparagus Beds.

Where omitted last month, dress your asparagus-beds as directed
in page 519. Indeed there is no better season than the first or second
week of this month, for that business.

Lettuces.

The lettuces which were planted in frames last month, should
be still suffered to enjoy the free air every day while the weather
continues mild and dry, by taking the glasses entirely off early in
the morning; but let them be put on again in the evening, or when-
ever the weather becomes cold or wet; for if these plants are kept
too close, they will draw up and beceme weakly, tender, and of
little value.

4 A

554 fHJ^ KITCHEN-GARDEN. [Nov.

When the weather is very wet or cold, keep the glasses on, and
should the frost set m rather too severe towards the end of the
month, you must give the necessary covering so as to prevent the
plants from ge'ting frozen; but be careful to admit air to them at
every favourable opportunity.

In the first week of this month, you should plant into the frames,
if omitted in October, such lettuces as are designed to be wintered
therein; this should on no account be delayed to a later period.

On the approach of severe frost protect your lettuces on warm
borders, &c. as directed in page 521.

N. B. Lettuces make a most delicious boiled sallad, which in the
estimation of most people who have tried it, is much superior to
spinach. This observation escaped my recollection while writing
the work of the summer months, where it might have been more
appropriately inserted; as then, thousands of heads start to seed and
are totally lost, which might be profitably used in this way. They
are generally in an excellent condition for this purpose, at any time
from the period of their having attained a sufficient size, till the
hearts or centre stems have shot towards seeding six or eight in-
ches high, so that when they are past use for a raw sallad, they^re
yet good fcr a boiled one.

Synall Salladin":

Small sallading of every kind will now require to be sown on a
sltff/(t hot-bed^ under the protection of frames and glasses; other-
wise disappointment will ensue, especially if the cold sets in early.
In mild weather admit plenty of air to give strength to the plants.

Garlick, Rocambole, and Shallots.

You may now plant garlick, rocambole, and shallots; the earlier
in the month that this is done the better. When planted at this
season in dry, light, rich ground, the roots will be much larger
than if deferred till spring. The bulbs of the common garlick or
Allium sativum, grow to a larger size than those of the rocambole,
or Allium Scorodo/irasu?n, but some people conceive the latter to be
of a better flavour.

The true shallot, or Allium ascalonicum, is considered to possess
the most agreeable flavour of any of that genus, and is, consequent-
ly, highly deserving of cultivation.

For the method of planting each of the above sorts, see page 198;
but in planting the bulbs produced on the tops of the garlick and
rocambole stalks, observe to cover them only about two inches deep,
as they are not so large or strong as the cloves of the roots.

Cabbage and Cauliflower Plants.

During the continuance of mild weather, give your cabbage and
cauliflower plants every advantage of free air, to inure them by de-
grees to bear the cold, by taking the glasses off totally, in the

Nov.] THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. 555

warm part of the day, but be attentive to lay them on again at
night and in wet or cold weather. On coldish days, except there
is a cutting frosty wind, you may raise the glasses a little behind
for the admission of air: however, if a severe frost should set in,
in the course of the month, you must cover the beds carefully at
night, and at other times when necessary, to protect the plants
therefrom. But having given general instructions for the methods
of treating cabbage plants in page 5 12, and cauliilower plants in
page 5 14, I now refer you thereto for further information.

Observe that the cauliflower being much more tender than the
cabbage plants, will require more care and covering to protect
them from fiost; and that either, will be greatly injured by being
deprived of light or air, longer than their safety or preservation re-
quire.

Preserving Cabbages and Borecole, for fVinter and Spring use.

Immediately previous to the setting in of hard frost, take up
your cabbages and savoys, observing to do it in a dry day; turn
their tops downward and let them remain so for a few hours, to
drain off any water that may be lodged between the leaves; then
make choice of a ridge of dry earth in a well sheltered warm ex-
posure, and plant them down to their heads therein, close to one
another, having previously taken off some of their loose hanging
leaves. Immediately erect over them a low temporary shed, of
any kind that will keep them perfectly free from wet, which is to
be open at both ends, to admit a current of air in mild dry weather.
These ends are to be closed with straw when the weather is very-
severe. In this situation your cabbages will keep in a high state of
preservation till spring, for being kept perfectly free from wet as
well as from the action of the sun, the frost will have little or no
effect upon them. In such a place the heads may be cut off as
wanted, and if frozen, soak them in spring, well, or pump v^ater,
for a few hours previous to their being cooked, which will dissolve
the frost and extract any disagreeable taste occasioned thereby.

Some plant their cabbages, after being taken up and drained as
above, in airy or well ventilated cellars, in earth or sand up to their
heads, where they will keep tolerably well, but in close, warm, or
damp cellars, they soon decay.

Others make a trench in ch-y sandy ground, and place the cab-
bages therein, after being well drained and dry, and most of their
outside loose green Idaves pulled off, roots upward, the heads con-
tiguous to, but not touching each other; they then cover them with
the dryest earth or sand that can be conveniently procured, and
form a ridge of earth over them like the roof of a house; some ap-
ply dry straw immediately round the heads, but this is a bad prac-
tice, as the straw will soon become damp and mouldy, and will of
course communicate the disorder to the cabbages.

Upon the whole the first method is, in my opinion, the most pre-
ferable, as there is no way in which cabbages will keep better, if
preserved from wet; and besides, they can be conveniently obtained,
whenever they are wanted for use.

556 ^^^^ KITCHEN-GARDEN. [Nov.

The grfeen and brown curled borecole being very hardy, will re-
quire but little protection; they may now be taken up and planted
in a ridge tolerably close together, and during severe frost covered
lightly with straw, this will preserve them sufficiently, and during
Avinter the heads may be cut off as they are wanted for use; the
stems if taken up and planted in rows, as early in March as the
weather will admit, will produce abundance of the most delicious
sprouts.

In the southern states, and even in warm soils and exposures in
the middle states, borecole will stand the winter in open beds with-
out any covering whatever.

Cauliflowers and Broccoli.

Your late cauliflowers, and broccoli, will now be producing their
heads; therefore it will be necessary to break down some of the
largest leaves over the flowers, to preserve them from the eff'ects of
sun, rain, and frost.

Such plants of either sort as are not likely to flower before the
commencement of severe frost, should be taken up and planted as
recommended in the first instance for cabbages, where if ivell/iro-
tected from wet and frost, they will conunue to produce fine flowers
all winter.

Or they may be planted in a dry warm cellar in the same man-
ner as directed for cabbages, where they will also flower in winter;
ind«ed I have had tolerably good flowers from strong plants hung up.
in a damp warm cellar.

Preserving Turneps, Carrots, Parsneps, Beets and Salsafy, Sfc.

Previous to the commencement of severe frost, you should take
up with as little injury as possible, the roots of your turneps, car-
rots, parsneps, beets, salsafy, scorzonera, Hamburg or large rooted
parsley, skirrets, Jerusalem artichokes, turnep-rooted celery, and
a sufficiency of horse-radish, for the winter consumption; cut off
their tops and expose the roots for a few hours tiU sufficiently dry.
On the surface of a very dry spot of ground in a well sheltered
situation, lay a stratum of sand two inches thick, and on this a
layer of roots of either sort, covering them with another layer of
sand (the drier the better) and so continue layer about of sand and
roots till all are laid in, giving the whole on every side a roof-like
slope; then cover this heap or ridge all over with about two inches
of sand, over which lay a good coat of drawn straw up and down as
if thatching a house, in order to carry off" wet, and prevent its en-
tering the roots; then dig a wide trench round the heap and cover
the straw with the earth so dug up, to a depth sufficient to preserve
the roots effectually from frost. An opening may be made on the
south side of this heap, and completely covered with bundles of straw
so as to have access to the roots at all times, when wanted either for
sale or use.

Some people lay straw, or hay, between the layers of roots and
immediately on the top of them; this I do not approve of, as the

N?)v.] THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. 557

straw or hay will become damp and mouldy, and very often occa-
sion the roots to rot, while the sand would preserve them sweet and
sound.

All these roots may be preserved in like manner in a cellar; but
in such a place they are subject to vegetate and become stringy
earlier in spring. The only advantage of this method is, that in
rtie cellar they may be had when wanted, more conveniently during
winter, than out of the field or garden heaps.

J^ote. All the above roots will preserve better in sand than in com-
mon earth, but when the former cannot be had, the sandiest earth
you can procure must be dispensed with.

Celery., Endive, and Cardoons.

Continue during the early part of this month to blanch your-
celery, endive and cardoons, as directed in the preceding months;
but when the severe frosts approach, they must be preserved there-
from, either in the following or some other more convenient and
effectual manner.

Every third row of the celery may be suffered to stand where
growing, opening a trench on each side of every standing row,
within six or eight inches thereof, for the reception of the plants
of the other two rows, which are to be carefully taken up with as
little injury as possible either to their tops or roots, and planted in
those new trenches, in the same order as they formerly stood.
The whole being thus planted, three rows together, they are to be
earthed up near their extremities of the leaves, and as soon as the
frost becomes pretty keen, in a very dry day cover the whole with
straw, and over this a good coat of earth.

When this plan is intended, the celery should in the first instance
be planted in rows, east and west, so that when the whole is covered
for wintet use as above, the south side, especially if protected a
little with straw, &c. may be easily opened to take out the plants
when wanted for use.

Or if you have the convenience of a deep garden-frame, you
may almost fill it with fresh sand, and then take up and plant there-
in, so close as nearly to touch one another, a quantity of your best
and largest celery, and so deep as to be covered within five or six
inches of their tops; place on your glasses immediately, and suf-
fer neither rain or water to reach the plants, except a very gentle
shower, occasionally in warm weather.

When severe frosts set in, lay dung, tan, leaves of trees, or
other litter round the sides and ends of the frame, and cover the
glasses with mats, &c. so as to keep out the frost. By this means
you can have celery during winter in the greatest perfection and as
convenient as you could desire.

Or celery may now be taken up when dry, well aired, and plant-
ed in sand in a dry cellar, in the same manner as directed for
planting it in the frame; observing, in either case, to lay up the
stalks and leaves neat and close, and to do as little injury to either
as possible.

The beds of celery which were planted as directed in page 431,
should, in the early part of this month, be earthed up to within six

558 'I'HE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [Nov.

or eight inches of the tops of the plants, and on the approach of
hard frost, additionally earthed to the very extremities of their
leaves; then lay a coverins^ of dry sandy earth on the top of each
bed, the whole length, so as to give it a rounding; on tliis, place a
coat of dry straw, drawn and laid on advantageously to cast off the
wet, and of cj sufficient thickness to effectually resist the frost; after
which cut a trench round the bed to carry off and prevent any lodge-
ment of water. Here you can have access to your celery, and it will
continue in a high state of preservation during the whole winter and
early spring nnonths.

Endive may be preserved in a frame, or cellar, as directed for
celery, or as recommended in page 518.

Cardoons may be preserved either in sand in a cellar, or by bank-
ing up a sufficiency of earth to ihem where they grow, and covering
the tops, 8cc. with straw or long litter.

N. B. All the above work must be performed in dry weather, and
when the plants are perfectly free from wet, otherwise they will be
very subject to rot.

Sowing Rhubarb, Sea-kale and other Seeds.

You shoiild now sow the seeds of rhubarb, sea-kale, skirrets, ale-
sanders, dill, and any other kinds of seed that do not vegetate freely
if kept out of the ground till spring; sow them as directed in March,
and be not under the least apprehension of the frost doing them any
injury.

Mushrooms.

The mushroom beds must be carefully protected from wet and
frost, as directed in page 515, Sec.

Winter dressing of Artichokes.

The winter dressing of artichokes is an important operation, and
on it depends much of their future success. This should not be
given them as long as the weather continues mild, that they may
have all the advantage possible of growth, and be gradually inured
to the present increasing cold; but it should not be deferred till
the setting in of haid frost, lest the entire work be prevented
thereby.

In the first place, cut all the large leaves close to the ground,
leaving but the small ones wnich rise from the hearts of the plaiUs;
after this, line and mark out, a trench in the middle between each
row, from fourteen to sixteen inches wide, presuming that the
rows are five feet apart, as directed under the article planting arti'
chokes^ in page 203. Then lightly dig the surface of the beds from
trench to trench, burying the weeds, and as you proceed, gather
the earth round the crowns of the plants to the height of about six
inches, placing it in gently, between the young rising leaves with-
out burying them entirely under it; this done dig the trenches one

Nov.] THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. 559

spade deep, and cast the earth thereof equally between and on each
side the plants, so as to level the ridges, giving them at the same
time, a neat rounding form; finish by casting up with a shovel the
loobe earth nut of the bottoms of the trenches evenly over the ridges,
in order that the water occasioned by heavy rains, &c. may imme-
diately run off; on which account the trenches ought to have a gen-
tle declivity, as a lodgement of water about the roots in winter, is
the greatest evil and danger they have to encounter; even greater
than the most severe frost of our climates.

The beds are to remain so, until there is an appearance of hard
frost, when they should be covered with light dry litter, straw, leaves
of trees, fern, peas-haulm or the like, the belter to preserve the
crowns and roots from its rigour. In this manner the roots will re-
main in perfect safety all winter, and in March they are to have
their spring dressing as directed in page 203.

When your artichoke plantation wants manure, lay on a coat of
old rotten dung previous to the digging of the trenches, and cover
it over with the earth as you throw it up; in the spring following dig
it in.

Forcing Jlsparagus.

This is a very proper time to begin to force asparagus in hot-beds;
for the method see page 123.

You should now, previous to the setting in of hard frost, cover
the asparagus-beds, containing the plants which you intend to force
during the ensuing months, with as much straw, or light litter of
some kind, as will prevent the ground from becoming frozen, so that
you can take up the roots with convenience and without injury when
wanted. This method is preferable to taking them up and deposit-
ing them in a cellar, in sand or earth, which is practised by some
gardeners.

Onions.

The young crops of Welch onion, or Jllivm Jistulosum, should be
kept free from weeds; some may be thinned out for use in sallads,
&c. the remaining plants will stand the winter, even if their foliage
decay, and produce a plentiful supply early in spring.

Dried onions should be occasionally examined, and such as show
a tendency to rot carefully picked out.

Patience Dock.

The Rumex fialientia, or patience dock, being a plant that af-
fords an early spring sallad for boiling, and being perennial in root
is deserving of a place in the garden. The leaves are very large,
long and succulent, and are produced in great abundance; the plant
may be propagated by sowing the seed any time this month while
the ground continues open, and the plants will rise freely in spring,
or you may sow the seeds in March or early in April, but those

560 THE FRUIT-GARDEN. [Nov.

sown at this time will make stronger and earlier plants; the seeds
may be sown pretty thick in drills eighteea inches asunder, and
covered about half an inch deep; when the plants are about two
inches high, thin them to the distance of eight inches from one
another, and so let them remain, always keeping them free from
weeds. It may also be propagated by offsets from the root taken off
in the spring or late autumn months, and planted in rows at the
above distances; and by heading it down frequently during summer,
as it starts to seed, you will increase the crops of foliage.

Dung and Trench Ground.

In the beginning of this month, dung and trench the ground that
fs intended for early crops, and lay it up in high narrow sloping
ridges, particularly if it be any way stiff, or of a heavy nature, to
receive the benefit of the winter frosts, &c. which will enrich, mel-
low, refresh, and sweeten it; besides by getting as much of this
work performed now, as can be conveniently done, it will greatly-
forward and assist your affairs in springj when hurried by a pressure
of other business.

Should the frost set in, towards the latter end of the month, so as
to bind up the ground, and prevent the operation of trenching, you
may cart or wheel manure into the different quarters, where want-
ed, which will help to forward your business considerably.

SOUTHERN STATES.

Transplant finally, cabbage and cauliflower plants, but where the
winter frosts are rather severe, the latter will want occasional pro-
tection of some sort; plant early Maeagan, Windsor, and long-pod
beans, and sow a succession crop of early peas; earth up your ad-
vancing crops of the cabbage tribe, celery, and cardoons, blanch
endive, sow spinach, radish, lettuce, and hkewise small sallading of
every kind on warm borders; the latter will require the protection
of a frame and glasses, in cold or frosty weather.

THE FRUIT-GARDEN.

Planting Espalier and Wall Trees, S^c.

In the early part of this month, plant apple, pear, quince,
plum, cherry, peach, nectarine, almond and apricot trees, either for
espaliers, against walls, or for half or whole standards; observing
that the ground in which you plant at this season lies perfectly dry
during winter. For further particulars, see the Fruit-Garden for
last month, page 524, and also page 221.

Nov.] THE FRUIT-GARDEN. 561

Gooseberries and Currants.

This is a very suitable and proper season for the planting and
pruning of gooseberries and currants; but for particulars I refer
you to pages 525 and 526.

Cuttings of either kind may now be planted as directed in page
292, but they must be stout and pretty long, so as to be planted
about ten inches deep, or the frost during winter will be very apt
to throw them out of the ground.

Gooseberry seed may now be sown as directed in page 526, with
a view to obtain new varieties. Currants and raspberries may in
like manner be raised from seed, and improved sorts obtained
thereby.

Raspberries.

As long as the M'ealher continues open you may transplant and
make new plantations of raspberries, but the earlier in the month
that this can be done the belter; especially if you have to trans-
plant the Antwerp varieties. For further information on the sub-
ject of planting and pruning raspberries, see page 527, Sec.

The red and while Antwerp kinds are excellent fruit, and less
bardy than the other varieties; consequently, it will be necessary,
in the eastern and middle states, to lay down the young shoots of
the present season, immediately previous to the commencement of
hard frost, first cutting off close to the ground, the shoots which
had borne fruit the preceding summer. The supernumerary
weakly shoots may also be cut off and likewise the straggling tops
of those you intend to lay down, or they may now have a general
and final pruning as directed in page 139.

This done dig the earth between the rows, clearing out all use-
less suckers and weeds, previously adding some very rotten ma-
nure, if the ground seems to need it, then being provided with
some hooked wooden pegs, and a number of long, small hoop-poles,
or the like, lay down each row of shoots gently on one side, on which
lay the hoop-poles, lengthwise the rows, pegging them down with
the hooked sticks so as to keep the shoots close to the earth; after
which cover all over with light litter, straw, hay, barley chaff, fern,
leaves of trees, or any other light covering, that will protect the
plants from the effects of the various changes of the weather,
which, and not the frost only, are the causes of their destruction.
Here they will remain in safe and good condition till the beginning
of March, when the litter is to be taken off, the plants raised up,
and the ground receive its spring dressing.

Some lay the shoots into, and cover them with the earth; but
although this has a clean appearance, and sometimes will answer
very well, the buds will be more liable to receive injury in this way,
than when covered with light litter as above.

4 B

562 THE ORCHARD. [Nov.

Fig- Trees.

Tlic more tender kinds of fig-trees which are planted against
'walls, or board fences, should now be gout over, and all fruit found
thereon, whether ripe or unripe, picked oil'; lor these would vot in
winter, and injure the young branches intended for next year's bear-
ing.

At the satne time, nail up close to the wall or fence all the prin-
cipal shoots, the better to secure them from the frost and power of
the wind; and if bass-mats are likewise nailed up, so as to cover the
trees, an important protection wili be aflorded thereby to the young
shoots. As to pruning, that should not be done, either in the middle
or eastern states till March. See page 216.

Fig-trees growing m the espalier way, may also be protected from
frost, by laying bass-mats over them, and making them fast, or
by laying boughs of pine or cedar up to them. It would also be pro-
per in a severe season to lay some long litter round tne roots of the
trees.

Pruning of Fruit-Trees.

Having in the Fruit-garden, for October, expressed my opinion
respecting the pruning of fruit-trees at this season, it is unnecessa-
ry to repeat it in this place. See page 524.

THE ORCHARD.

Planting, Sfc.

This being an eligible period for planting of orchards on dry
ground, and indeed they never should be planted on a cold, wet, or
swampy soil, I refer you to the article Crc/iard in March, where you
will find ample instructions respecting the extent, aspect, situation,
and soil; the preparation of the ground, the choice of trees and
method of planting. See. all of which are equally applicable in this
month as in that, and a reference thereto wili at present supercede
the necessity of a repetition.

Apples, pears, quinces, plums, cherries, peaches, nectarines,
apricots, and almonds may now be planted; also, walnuts, chesuuts,
filberts, persimmons, beiberries, medlars, and every other kind of
hardy fruit-trees, agreeably to the directions given in March.

Pruning.

As you may now commence the pruning of apple and pear trees,
8cc. I would strongly recommend to your perusal at this time, the en-
tire of the. article Orchard in January, beginning at page 45, apd also
the same article in Ftbruary, page 141, !xc.

Nov.] THE VINEYARD. 563

Old fruit trees having scaly, rough bark, should in this month, if
not done in the former, be brushed over with a mixture of cow-dung
and urine, as directed in page 530.

THE VINEYARD.

Pruning of Vines,

The pruning of grape-vines at this season, will answer extremely
well in the southern states, and ought to be duly attended to; but
the severity of the frosts in the middle and eastern states, renders
it more prudent to defer tnis work to the latter end of February, or
if ihe season proves late, the first week in March; but upon no ac-
count should you delay it longer: indeed upon the whole, the late
February pruning will be the safest. In the city and neighbourhood
of Philadelphia, vines that were pruned on the first and second days
of March, 1805, wept copiously a few days after, but some cold
weather ensuing, they stopped bleeding; this shows the necessity of
pruning in February, especially in warm situations or exposures.

Those who prefer pruning their vines at this time, as well as thos«
who from the temperateness of their climate ought to do it, will
find the necessary instructions in page 147, &c.

Winter dressing of Vines.

You should now plough between the rows of vines in your vine-
yard, where practicable, having first tied up all the trailing runners
to the stakes; observing to lay up the earth as much as possible to
the stems of the vines: to effect this the better, the ground must
be cross-ploughed. The one and two year old plants, will particularly
require this earthing; and after the ploughing is finished, the earth
should be drawn up round them with a hoe, the better to preserve
the lower parts of the stems with the buds from alternate freezing
and thawing, which is much more injurious to them than a continued
frost. In this state they are to remain till the proper time for prun-
ing in spring, when the earth is to be drawn from around them,
and the plants dressed as directed in page 147.

When the ground does not admit of this culture with the plough,
it should be given with the spade and hoe, as it is of considerable
importance, not only to protect the plants, but to destroy weeds, and
meliorate the soil, by throwing it up loosely to the influence of the
frost and weather. A dressing of manure, where wanted, should be
given previous to the ploughing, &c.

This is a very proper period to manure, trench, or plough the
groand which you intend to plant with grape-vines next spring, as
observed in page 244; leaving it as rough and high as possible.

In the southern states, vineyards may now be planted, vines
pruned and propagated by layers and cuttings, and every thing else
done in that way, as directed in March for the middle and eastern
states.

664 [Nov.

THE NURSERY.

Transplmiting.

All the principal nursery transplanting should be finished as
early in this month as possible, in order that the plants may have
time to push out new fibres before the frosts set in; for when plant-
ed at a late period, they seldom put out fibres before spring, and
have to live principally on their own substance during winter, which
greatly weakens them. However, where that cannot be conveniently
done, and that necessity requires it, you may continue to transplant
all kinds of hardy trees and shrubs, while the ground continues
open.

Protecting Seedlings and Tender Plants.

In the early part of the month, you should sift some dry, fresh
^arth, over the seedling pines, arising from the seed sown last
spring, so as to nearly reach the foliage, in order to protect their yet
tender stems from the inclemency of the approaching season; and
immediately on the setting in of hard frost, spread some dry straw,
fern, leaves of trees, or other light covering, thinly over the beds, to
aiFord additional protection and in some measure to prevent the
frost from entering the ground as deep as it otherwise might: for,
without the above care, many of the plants would be spewed up by
the frost, and most of them be destroyed by the dry parching winds
of the ensuing spring. Observe that the covering must be light, or
that it be supported above the plants by some means, or a serious
injury may accrue by its rotting the foliage, Sec.

The top covering is not necessary, except when the winter frosts
are severe; but sifting earth between and among the plants, so as
nearly to come up to the leaves, will be of use in every climate and
country; and not only to pine and fir seedlings, but to every other
sort that are subject, from their diminutive first year's growth, to be
thrown out of the earth by frost, or injured by drought.

Any kinds of seedlings that are rather tender, should have hoop
iarches made over the beds, and on the approach of severe frosts,
thick mats, &c. laid on these for the protection of the plants.

All hardy plants in pots should now be removed, to where they can
have sufficient protection in severe weather; for if left fully exposed
to the frost, the plants will not only be injured, but the pots burst by
the expansion of the earth and water.

Pots containing tolerably large and hardy exotic plants, may be
plunged to their rims in a warm border, and covered six or eight
inches deep over their edges, with tanner's bark, leaves of trees, long
liiter, &c. which will considerably preserve the roots of the plants.
But the more curious kinds of hardy evergreens and other plants in
pots, should now be removed into the green-house, or into garden
frames, with glasses and other covering, the more effectually to pro-
tect them,

Nov.] FLOWER-GARDEN. 565

Digging between the JViirsery Rows.

You should now continue to dig the ground between all such
trees and shrubs, as are to remain another year in the nursery
rows; this will destroy the weeds, innprove the plants, and add neat-
ness to the whole during winter and spring.

Care of new -planted Trees, S^c.

Stake and tie up all new planted trees, that are in open exposures,
in order to prevent their being rocked about by the winds, than
which there is nothing more injurious to them.

Lay light litter of some kind, a good thickness, over the roots of
the more tender and choice kinds of trees and shrubs, to protect
them from frost; this will be of considerable service, and encourage
them to shoot vigorously in spring.

Pruning Trees and Shi-ubs.

You may now reduce to proper form, any hardy forest or orna-
mental trees, flowering shrubs, &c. cutting out any disorderly or
straggling branches, and trimming up the stems of such as require
it. But the more tender sorts should not be pruned till spring.

Preparations for making JVew Plantations.

Continue to dig and trench the ground, or to plough it extremely
deep, where you intend making new plantations in spiing, by whicli
it will be greatly improved, and your business then forwarded.

Where dung is wanted, it should be given previous to the
digging, &c. and advantage ought to be taken of dry weather, to
carry it in and spread it on the ground. It will be much better to
give it at this season, than immediately before planting, as it will
have more time to incorporate with the earth, and to be deprived of
its rancid qualities.

THE PLEASURE, OR FLOWER-GARDEN.

Planting Tulip, Hyacinth, Anemone, and Ranunculus roots.

This is still a very proper time to plant the roots of tulips, hya-
cinths, anemones, and ranunculuses, but the earlier in the month
it can be done the better; for it is a fact well known to every expe-
rienced florist, that bulbous and tuberous roots, which have time to
emit and form fibres before winter, are much less liable to be injured
by frost, than those which are planted late, and consequently lie

566 THE PLEASURE, OR [Nov.

during that season in an inactive state. Having In the Flower-Gar-
den for October^ given ample instructions for the performance of this
work, I refer you thereto, in order to avoid unnecessary repetition.

Protecting Tulip, Hyacinth, Anemone, and Ranunculus i-oots.

As it is not unfrequent in the eastern and middle states, for hard
frost to set in towards the latter end of this month, you should pre-
vious thereto, lay a good lining of fresh tanner's bark, horse dung,
leaves of trees, or dry straw, round the outsides of the beds contain-
ing your choice hyacinths, anemones and ranunculuses; this should
be quite as high as the upper parts of the surrounding frames, and
of a sufficient body to keep the frost effectually from penetrating in
at the sides. Sec. Tulips will only require to lay a light covering of
any kind over and around the beds, such as straw, fern, leaves, 8cc.
for although the frost will not kill the roots, yet by slightly protect-
ing them therefrom, the flowers will blow much stronger and more
perfect than they otherwise would.

Hyacinths, though very hardy, will also be greatly improved in
their flowers, by protecting the bulbs in winter from severe frosts,
which may be eff'ected by laying boards and mats over the frames in
which the finest sorts are planted; but these should be taken off" every
mild day, or when the sun is so powerful as to prevent an accumu-
lation of frost in the beds. The less valuable, and common sorts, may
be protected as directed for tulips; any kind of light covering will be
of use, and indeed they often flower very well without it.

Two inches deep of one or two years old tanner's bark, if laid over
your beds of tulips, hyacinths, polyanthus-narcissus, &c. in the open
ground, will afford the roots considerable protection; but be cautious
not to use for this purpose, new or fresh tan from the vats, as the
astringent juice thereof would work down to the roots, and do them
much more injury than the entire omission of covering, or of afford-
ing them any manner of protection.

Ranunculuses and anemones being much more tender than tulips
or hyacinths, will require in severe frost,, a good effectual covering
of glasses, mats, and boards; or in default of glasses, mats and
boards only, or any other suitable protection. This covering is to be
supported by the frames surrounding the beds wherein the roots are
planted, and it must be taken off every mild day,, while there is no
danger of the beds accumulating frost, in order to ventilate and suf-
ficiently air the plants that are up, so that they may neither be drawn
too much, the foliage turn yellow, nor the roots become mouldy.
But particular care must be taken to place the covering on again,
as soon as the day becomes cold and before the beds begin to freeze.
The ranunculuses are somewhat more tender than the anemones,
and will require a proportional protection.

Planting various kinds of Bulbous and Tuberous Flower roots.

You may still continue to plant the various kinds of bulbous and
tuberous flower-roots, as directed in page 542, but the earlier in the
month that you can get this accomplished, the better.

:>^ov.] FLOWER-GARDEN. 567

Transplanting Perennial and Biennial Flower Roots.

Where omitted in the preceding months, you should as early in
this as possible, divide (where necessary) and transplant the various
kinds of hardy perennial and biennial fibrous-rooted plants, agreea-
bly to the directions given in pages 501 and 544.

Auriculas, Polyanthuses, Carnations, and Primroses, S^c.

The pots containing your choice auriculas, polyanthuses, carna-
tions, and double primroses, should immediately previous to the
setting in of hard frost, be plunged to their rims close together in »
garden-frame, and there defended from heavy rains and severe frost,
by putting on the glasses and a suitable covering of mats, Sec. occa-
sionally, according to the necessity of the case. But observe that
as all these kinds are of a hardy nature, they must be fully exposed
to the weather every day that is tolerably mild and dry, and even at
night until the frost becomes rather rigorous. However, it will be
proper to line the outside of the frame, as directed in page 566, for
ranunculuses and anemones, the better to keep out the most severe
frosts of the winter; for when properly protected, and not drawn or
forced too much, they always flower better than when cut up by
severe weather.

Where there is not the convenience of glasses, mats and boards
may be laid over the frame; or, if no frame, the pots may be plunged
close together in a raised bed of dry soil, or tan, in a warm situation,
and low arches made of old cask hoops, or the like, erected over
them, on which to lay thick mats in wet or frosty weather. But in
February, and early in March, while the frost is in the ground, or
the leaves in a frozen state, and especially if they had been covered
with snow, you must be particular not to expose them to a hot sun,
which would be almost certain death to them.

Double Daisies.

The beds wherein were planted your double daisies, Sec. as direct-
ed in October, page 544, should towards the latter end of this month,
or when the frost is likely to become severe, be protected occasion-
ally therefrom, by a covering of mats, or when very severe, boards
and mats, but let them have the benefit of the air as long, and as
often as the weather is mild; observing always to defend them from
heavy rains and snow, either of which would have a tendency to rot
anci melt them away.

Daisies will survive the winter in a warm border, covered with a
light coat of clean straw, which should be taken oft' and laid on occa-
sionally in mild weather, to air and harden the plants; but these will
not blow as well nor as early in spring, as those taken better care
of.

The daisies which were potted in September or October with a
view to force them in winter, should be particularly attended to
during the whole of this month, iti order to strengthen and encourage

568 THE PLEASURE, OR [Nov.

their growth. But if the potting of them were omitted, it should be
done in the beginning of this month; selecting for that purpose the
largest and best plants, and carefully removing them with good balls
of earth round their roots.

Frotecting Seedling Bulbs.

You should now plunge the pots or boxes in which you sowed the
seeds of bulbous-rooted flowering plants, and also those containing
the one or two year old seedling bulbs, up to their rims, or edges,
in a raised bank of light, dry earth, or you may set them on the
bank, and fill the spaces between them with tanner's bark, or leaves
of trees, well crammed in: then on the approach of severe frosts,
cover them all over with dry straw, or peas-haulm, which is to
be taken off occasionally in mild dry weather and aired, in order to
prevent its getting mouldy, and communicating the disorder to the
seeds or roots.

Stock -gilhjfiowers and Wallflowers.

Your double stock-gillyflowers and wallflowers, in pots, should
now be either taken into the green-house, or warm, close rooms, or
plunged to their rims in a dry, warm exposure, surrouiided with a
deep garden frame, where they may be protected during win-
ter. These plants being tolerably hardy, will keep well by a
very slight protection of boards and mats, or boards covered with
straw, or other litter, when the frost is severe: they will seldom be
injured before February, but a warm sun about the end of that
month, if suffered to shine on them whilst the leaves or stems are in
a frozen state, would totally destroy them.

It would be of additional advantage to lay three or four inches
of old tanner's bark over the surface of the pots, the better to pre-
serve the roots from the frost. The plants must be aired occasion-
ally in mild weather, for if kept too closely covered, they would be-
come blanched, weak, and tender, and lose that robust growth so
necessary to a good bloom of Mowers.

Flanting Bulbous roots in Pots and Glasses.

You may continue to plant the various kinds of early flowering
bulbs in pots, as directed in page 542, but the earlier in the month
that this is done, the sooner you may expect them to flower. The
pots are then to be placed either in a warm room, where there is
plenty of light, or in garden-frames, and treated as directed last
month. Some of them may beimmc.-iately placed in the hoi-house,
or in a forcing frame, to be forced into an eai ly bloom for the deco-
ration of rooms, windows, &c. and others placed in the green-house
for a succession.

The early part of this month is still a very proper time to set the
bulbs of early tulips, hyacinths, polyanthus-narcissus j.mquils, dwarf
Persian iris, &c. in bulb-glasses filled with water, which should

Nov.] FLOWER-GARDEN. 569

never be suffered to come higher round the roots than about the
eighth of an inch, replenishing the water occasionally as it evapo-
rates, so that it may just touch the bottom of the bulbs. Some
of the glasses may be immediately placed in the hot-house for an
early bloom, the others to be treated as directed in page 5 45.

Taking up and Preserving the roots of Tuberoses, and Scarlet
Jlmaryllises, Sfc.

As soon in this month as you observe the frost to injure the
foliage of your tuberoses and jacobaea lilies or scarlet aniaiyllises,
and other very tender bulbs, which generally lie dormant in winter,
take up the roots and spread them in a warm room, where they
will be perfectly secure from frost, if in a stove-room the better;
in the course of eight or ten days, divest them of the decayed foliage
and root fibres, and continue them spread as before till well dried,
always taking care to preserve them from frost; when sufficiently
dry pack them up in s?nall boxes, in very dry saw-dust, chaff, dry
moss, or the like, and then place the boxes, in some very warm
room to remain during winter, where they can be effectually secure
from frost, the least touch of which would totally destroy the roots.

Dressing the Beds and Borders, Sfc.

The beds of young succession or other flower-bulbs, which were
not disturbed in the present year, should now be carefully wed, raked
over, and if any moss appears thereon, it ought to be picked off;
after which lay an inch or two, as may be deemed necessary, of
good light compost all over the beds; this will assist in defending
the roots from frost, and add much to their health and vigour in the
ensuing spring.

Clear the beds, borders, and other compartments, from fallen
leaves of trees, and the dead stalks of annual and other plants; pull-
ing up the annuals by the roots, as they never flower again, and cut-
ting down the decayed perennials to the ground. After this, hoe
and clear the ground from all manner of weeds, and where there
are no bulbs planted, slightly dig the ground without injuring any
plants growing therein, and rake the surface smooth and even. This
will prepare the borders, &c. for the reception of other plants, and
give a neat and becoming appearance to the whole during winter.

Dig and neatly rake all the shrubbery compartments, especially
those contiguous to the principal walks, excepting such as are laid
down with grass, or wilderness plantations, this will destroy weeds,
enliven the prospect, and encourage the growth of the shrubs.

Planting Forest and Ornamental Trees and Shrubs.

All kinds of hardy trees and shrubs, especially the deciduous sorts,
may be planted, in dry soil, any time this month, while the weather
continues mild, but the earlier in it that this is done the better. For
an account of the sorts, see page 301. for designs in ornamental

4 C

570 THE PLEASURE-GARDEN. [Nov.

planting, see page 64, &c. and for the method of planting, see
page 301.

Transplanting Large Trees, ^c.

It frequently happens that people are desirous of removing large
favourite trees or shrubs, from one place to another, and as this is the
best lime to prepare for that business, I refer you for the necessary
information to page 233.

Prune Flowering-Shrubs, Sfc.

You may now prune and reduce into due form, any hardy flower-
ing shrubs and forest-trees, whether evergreen or deciduous; but
the more tender sorts ought not to be pruned till spring. For
the method of doing which, see page 165.

Planting and Plashing Hedges.

Ground hedges of haw-ihorn, beech, hornbeam, honey-locust or
any other hardy kinds of deciduous plants, may be made any time
in this month, while the weather continues open. For ample in-
structions on this subject, see page 260, &c.

Old hedges which are overgrown and thin, may now be plashed,
or cut down, as directed in page 268.

Ordinarij Work.

Rake and carry away out of the walks, borders, and lawns, the
fallen leaves of trees and other rubbish: slake and tie up any large
new planted trees, to prevent their being rocked about by the wind,
and lay mulch, long litter, or leaves, round the roots of such as are
rather tender, to protect them from frost.

Place small stakes and bass-mats, or long-drawn straw, bound
around such plants of the Hydrangea hortensis, Prunus Lauro-
cerassus, China and Otaheitc roses, &c. as you have planted out in
warm well-sheltered borders. Many plants that are commonly kept
in Green-houses, would abide during winter in the open ground, if
thus protected; but this should not be done till the keen frosts are
just commencing.

Dress gravel-walks, and mow grass-walks and lawns, after which
roll them with a heavy roller, which will render the surface firm,
smooth and neat during winter. Observe to do this work in dry
open weather. Some people break up their gravel walks at this
season, and throw them in ridges to lie so all winter, under an idea
of destroying weeds. Sec. but as this renders walks unserviceable at
a time when a fool can scarcely be set with pleasure on any other
part of the ground, and that a turning in spring would answer the
erd proposed, this practice ought to be abandoned.

Lay roses and other shrubs for propagation, and in the early part
of the month, take off well rooted layers, and dig up suckers of de-

Nov.] THE GREEN-HOUSE. 571

sirable kinds, which plant immediately where wanted, or into nur-
sery-rows to obtain age and strength.

Turn your compost heaps of every kind, and spread them so thin
that the frosts may penetrate to the very bottoms of them; let the
lumps be well broken, and all parts properly mixed.

Provide materials and make new composts, agreeably to the direc-
tions given in the preceding part of this work, in order to have them
ready for use in the ensuing year; for the longer they are in a state
of preparation, and the more effectually incorporated, the better will
all sorts thrive which may be planted therein.

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

/

In the beginning of this month, all the hardy exotic plants which
have been permitted to remain abroad till this time, but which re-
quire protection in winter, should be removed into the Green-
House, or into the other places destined for their preservation. In
the middle states, the Viburnum Tinus, Hydrangea hortensis, Pru-
nus Lauro-Cerassus, Magnolia grandiflora, China and Otaheite
roses, Lagerstroemia indica. Daphne odora, Aucuba japonica, double
flowering pomegranate, double stocks and wallflowers, Cycla-
men, Belladonna and Guernsey lilies, with several other shnabby
and herbaceous kinds, will seldom suffer by being left out before the
middle of this month, but leaving them much longer unprotected
would be imprudent, unless your stock is so numerous that you
wish to try experiments on their hardness.

In mild weather your Green-House plants should have plenty of
free air admitted to them every day, by opening the glasses, &c.
always observing to close the house in due time in the afternoon,
and in wet or frosty weather: even in very severe weather,
you may happen to find an hour or two in the middle of the day in
which to slide down the upper lights, to admit fresh air, and suffer
the foul to pass out; this may be often done when it would be quite
imprudent to raise the lower sashes. But if a very rigorous frost
should set in towards the latter end of the month, it may be neces-
sary to make a fire in the evening, to prevent its penetrating into
the house; however, this shouJd not be resorted to while you can
keep out the frost by means of good shutters or by fastening mats in
front of the windows at night; for too much heat at any time, but parti-
cularly in the early part of the season, is of serious injury to the
Green-House plants, which require nothing more than merely to be
kept from frost.

Occasional, but gentle waterings, must now be given to all the
plants; some will require to be watered three times a week, while
others, particularly the succulent kinds, will not need it more than
a little once a week; but as the state of the weather, sometimes
makes a very material difference in this, there is no saying how

572 THE HOT-HOUSE. [Nov.

often, or how much at a time, ought to be administered; however
it will be safer to give a little and often, than too much at a time,
which should now be administered in the forenoon of fine days, that
the damp may pass off before the windows are shut, lest the steam
occasioned thereby might create a mouldiness, and injure the plants.

Pick off all decayed leaves from the plants, and throw them out
of the house; for if they are suffered to remain in it, they will rot
and infect the air, which foul effluvia being imbibed by the plants,
will infect them also, and bring on disease and vermin.

lixamine the tubs and pots occasionally, and if the earth cakes or
binds at top, loosen it to a moderate depth; and where decayed
branches or shoots occur, prune them off as soon as observed, and
cast them out of the house.

The myrtles and other plants which are in frames, or pits, must
now be duly attended to, in like manner as those in the Green-House.
The frames or pits, to the full height of the glasses, must be lined
round with horse-dung, leaves, straw, fern or the like, to keep the
frost from penetrating in at the sides and ends; the plants must have
plenty of fresh air at all favourable opportunities, and be effectually
protected at night and in frosty weather, by laying a sufficient co-
vering of mats, straw, boards, &c. over the glasses, observing not
to deprive them of the benefit of light but while absolute necessity
requires it.

Preserving tender Bulbs, Sfc.

As some persons who have not the convenience of a Hot-House,
may be desirous of having some tender exotic bulbous and tuberous
rooted plants, such as Crinums, Pancratiums, Arums, Amomum
Zinziber, or true ginger. Sec. These and such like roots, may in the
beginning of this month, be taken up and carefully dried as you do
tuberoses, and then packed up in very dry sand, or in extremely
dry moss, observing to keep them during winter completely out of
the reach of frost or moisture. About the beginning or middle of
April, you may plant them in pots, which should be plunged in a
temperate hot-bed, and give the roots but very little water till they
produce foliage and are growing freely: towards the latter end of
May the pots may be placed in the open air, to remain till the latter
end of September, when they should be taken in, and placed in the
Green-House, or in the windows of some warm room till this time;
then to be treated as above. Or you may keep up the roots till the
middle of May, and then plant them even in the open ground; after
which they will grow considerably before autumn, but not flower
quite as strong as if properly kept in a Hot-House.

THE HOT-HOUSE.

It is to be presumed that your tan-pits have been renewed, and
all your pots containing pine and other tender plants duly arranged

Nov.] THE HOT-HOUSE. 573

in the course of the last and preceding month, as then directed; but
should it happen by any disappointment, that this could not have
been effected, it ought on no account to be omitted in the first week
of this month.

As the cold weather advances, the fires in the stove should be in-
creased proportionably, being careful not to overheat the air, lest
thereby the plants shoot too freely, which would be a serious injury to
them at this season, by rendering them more tender, and conse-
quently less able to endure the vicissitudes of the ensuing winter;
besides, the most forward of the pine-plants might start to fruit,
which would ruin all your expectations; nor should the air be kept
too coid, that is, the spirits in the thermometer of Falirenheit, suf-
fered to get lower night or day than 52 or 54 degrees, lest the pines
become stunted, and many of the curious exotics lose their leaves,
and perhaps their extreme parts decay, for w;.\nt of that degree of
heat so necessary and so congenial to their constitutions.

Give water occasionally to such plants as want it, in moderate
proportions, and not too much at a time, for they cannot now dis-
charge it so freely as in summer; observing that it stands at least
twenty-four hours in tho stove before you use it, to acquire the same
degree of heat as the air of the house.

Fresh air must be admitted into the house every mild and warm
day, while the weather continues open, but especially when the ther-
mometer is above sixty-two or three degrees; you must be attentive
however, to close the house immediately on any sudden unfavourable
change of weather, and always sufiiciently early in the afternoon to
retain a considerable warmth in the house during the night, which
will sometimes in the early part of the month, supercede the neces-
sity of fire, or at least of but very little.

The art of managing tender exotic plants, consists principally in
keeping the air of the stove or Hot-House, in a proper and regular
temperature of heat, in duly proportioning the quantity of water to
the different natures and necessities of the various kinds of plants, in
judiciously admitting a sufficiency of air at suitable opportunities,
and in keeping the bark-pits in a proper state of fermentation; all
which must be duly attended to, or the desired success cannot be
expected.

Pick off constantly all the decayed leaves from the plants, and
throw them out of the house; clean their leaves and stems from filth,
which many kinds are subject to contract; wash off and destroy all
insects which infest any of them, frequently stir the surface earth in
the pots, to keep it from contracting moss, Sec. and keep all the house
clean, sweet, and in neat order.

Care of Young Succession Pines, and other Plants.

The young pines or other plants in succession houses must have
the same care as above; and those in bark beds under garden-
frames are to be diligently attended to; the outside lining must be
kept to the full height of the frame all around, and in a regular and
constant state of warmth; the glasses must be carefully and suffi-
ciently covered every night, and by day in a very severe frost, but

574 THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [Dec.

the plants should have as much light as possible, and air whenever
it can be given with safety: decayed leaves must constantly be pick-
ed off, and taken out of the frame, but watering will seldom be ne-
cessary at this season, as the steam arising from the bed will occa-
sion a moist atmosphere about the plants. Observe that the more
succulent kinds, will not keep as well in such a place, as in a dry
stove, or on shelves in the Hot-House.

The garden pits erected with brick and furnished with flues, in
which you have tender exotic plants, must also have a lining of hot
dung placed round them to their full height in order to prevent the
frost from penetrating in through the wall; moderate fires must be
made in the flues every evening, and in severe weather to keep up
the internal heat, when that of the pit is found not to be sufficiently
strong: the glasses must be well covered with mats. Sec. every
night, and even by day when the weather is cloudy and the frost
very severe.

DECEMBER.

WORK TO BE DONE IN THE KITCHEN-GARDEN.

THIS is very frequently one of the most severe of our winter
months, and every judicious gardener will be well provided against
its rigour, by having all his frames lined round as directed in No-
vember, and being well supplied with the necessary mats and other
covering. If this provision be neglected, he may be taken, as it
were by Kurprize, and in one or two nights, lose a great number of
valuable plants.

Should the weather prove mild, and the ground continue open,
in the beginning of the month, which seldom happen in the middle
or eastern states, you may complete any work recommended to be
done in November, and then unavoidably omitted; such as dressing
asparagus and artichoke beds, taking up and putting into a state of
preservation, cabbages, turneps, parsneps, carrots, beets, celery, en-
dive, cardoons, salsify, scorzonera, See. But the many chances that
are against your being able to accomplish this work in December,
ought to induce you to double your diligence in November, and
complete every thing in due season.

Cauliflower and Cabbage Plants.

Every mild day observe to uncover your cauliflower plants which
are under frames and glasses, that they may enjoy the free air;

Dec] the KITCHEN-GARDEN. 575

otherwise they will draw up and become weak: constantly pick
off all decayed leaves, which if suffered to remain on would be very
injurious to the plants, especially if it should happen, as it frequently
does in this month, that the weather would be so severe as to ren-
der it imprudent to uncover the beds for several days successively;
for when these decayed leaves rot, they emit a rancid vapour, which
mixing' with the confined air of the beds, renders it very unwhole-
some for the plants.

When it is not safe to take off the lights entirely, in the middle
of the day, let them be raised upon props two or three inches at the
back of the frames, to let in fresh air to the plants.

The glasses must be covered every night with mats, straw, fern,
or some other long, dry litter, and even in the day time when the
frost is very rigorous; but no opportunity ought to be missed to
admit light to the plants, and to give them air when it can be done
with safety. The frame containing them must be carefully lined all
round the outside, as directed in November, to prevent the frost
from penetrating in at the sides and ends thereof.

Some will consider this rather troublesome, but it will be found
much less so, than to sow the seed in January or February, and
nurse, and once or twice transplant the young seedlings during the
remainder of the winter and spring; besides, the autumn sown
plants when taken proper care of, will produce much larger and
better heads than those sown in winter or spring, and be earlier and
more certain.

The early Smyrna, York, sugar-loaf, and other tender kinds of
cabbage-plants, require exactly the same treatment as the cauli-
flower, but being more hardy less covering will be necessary, and
more air may with safety be admitted. There is nothing more in-
jurious to either, than to be kept too closely covered; therefore
no opportunity, if but for half an hour at a time, ought to be omitted
to admit light and air, when it can be done with any tolerable de-
gree of safety.

The Savoy, flat Dutch, drum-head, and other late kinds, will keep
when planted in warm borders, with very little protection; arches
made of old hoops, &c. should be erected over them, on which to
lay mats, straw, branches of evergreen trees, or shrubs, Sec. For
further particulars, see page 513.

Care of Lettuce Plants.

The care of lettuce plants being the same now as in the ensuing
month, I refer you for the necessary instructions to page 18, and
also to page 512.

Small Sallading.

Where small sallading, such as cresses, rape, mustard, lettuce
radish, &c. is required at this season, these seeds must be sown in
a hot-bed, protected with a good frame and glasses, and also suffi-

576 '^HE KITCHEN-GARDEN. [Deo.

cient covering of mats, &c. but care must be taken not to cover the
seeds deeper with earth, than what is barely sufficient to hide
them.

Keep the glasses constantly over them, and admit air to the plants
every day when the weather is mild, by raising the lights a little
behind, otherwise they will be apt to become mouldy and decay.
It is almost unnecessary to say that the glasses must be kept well
covered every night, and even in the day time during extremely
severe weather.

Mushrooms.

Particular care must now be taken to preserve the mushroom
beds from frost or wet, either of which would destroy the spawn,
and render the beds unproductive. They must consequently be
covered with a sufficient depth of dry straw, and over this mats:
after heavy rains or snow they should be examined, and if you find
the covering next the earth of the beds wet, take it totally away and
immediately replace it with dry straw. Where the necessary and
proper care is taken, there will be a constant supply of mushrooms
for the table, even in the most rigorous seasons. Observe the gene-
ral directions given in page 515, Sec.

Forcing Asparagus.

Hot-beds may now be made for forcing asparagus, to supply the
table about the latter end of January; for at this season, it will be
full six weeks from the time of making the beds, before the aspa-
ragus will be fit to cut, presuming the beds to be kept of a due tem-
perature of heat. For the method of making and managing them,
see page 123, &c.

Ordinary Work.

If the weather continues open carry dung into the quarters of the
kitchen-garden, spread it, and trench the ground, laying it in high
sloping ridges to be mellowed by the frost, Sec.

When the ground is frozen that it cannot be dug, cart or carry
in manure, and lay it down in convenient places, to have it at
hand when the frost goes off; repair the fences of the garden where
necessary; if you have any seeds remaining in their pods or cap-
sules, beat or rub out and clean them, so as to be ready for sow-
ing when wanted; prepare all tools which may be necessary in
spring, that there may be no delay when the season is favourable
for commencing your early cropping.

Provide from the woods, &c. pea-sticks, and bean-poles, of every
size; dress and point them, that they may be in complete rea-
diness when wanted; collect all your old sticks and poles which are
yet fii for use, and lay them with the new ones under the protection
of some shed, to prevent their rotting by wet, &c.

Dkc] the FRUIT-GARDEN. 577

SOUTHERN STATES.

In such of the southern states as have but very slight frosts in
winter, you may, in addition to other necessary work, sow on warm
borders for early crops, small quantities of carrots, parsneps, onions,
beets, radish, lettuce, spinach and parsley, Stc. earth up late celery
and cardoons, lie up endive for blanching;, and plant out in rows up
to their heads such of the cabbage tribe as are intended for seed,
covering their heads with straw if found necessary, to preserve them
from frost or vvet. Take care to set each kind apart by itself, and
at a considerable distance from any other, for if contiguous, the
farina of the one when in blossom, would impregnate the seeds in
the ovaries of the other, whereby the whole would become bastar-
dized, and you would have neither kind in its original purity.

Plant early Mazagan, Lisbon, long-pod, and Windsor beans, and
sow early-frame, golden, and charleton hotspur peas; earth up
the crops of peas and beans, which were sowed in the preceding
months, as they advance in growth, and if there is any danger to be
apprehended from frost, cover them at night and in severe weather
with long dry straw, which can be conveniently removed when a
favourable change takes place, and laid on again when found neces-
sary.

Plant out garlick, rocambole, and shallots, likewise large onions,
for seed, and sow as directed in March, the seeds of rhubarb, sea-
kale, skerrets, alesanders, dill, and such other kinds of seed as do
not vegetate freely when kept out of the ground till spring.

THE FRUIT-GARDEN.

Improving the Borders, Sfc.

You may now carry well-rotted old dung, rich earth, or com-
post, and spread it on the borders in which are planted wall or espa-
lier trees; this will protect the roots during winter; in spring, when
dug in, it will add new vigour to the trees, and the advantage will
be very evident in the ensuing crops. Standard fruit-trees of every
kind, will be greatly improved by similar treatment, especially if the
ground is become poor, or any way exhausted.

Protecting the roots of new-planted Trees.

In the early part of this month, if omitted in November, you
should lay wispy dung, straw, or long litter of some kind, over the
roots of those trees which were planted last spring, or in the pre-
ceding months, to prevent the frost from having too great an effect
on their young and yet tender fibres; this in very rigorous seasons

4 D

578 THE FRUIT-GARDEN. [Dec^

often does considerable injury to young trees, and sometimes lays
the foundation of diseases which ultimately destroy them.

Figs in particular will require this attention, and besides, the tops
and stems of the tender kinds, should be covered with mats, or other
suitable protection, where the frosts are extremely severe.

Pruning nipples and Pears on Espaliers, Sfc.

Apples and pears being perfectly hardy, may now be pruned if
the weather happens to be mild, agreeably to the directions given in
page 25; but if this is not deemed necessary on account of dispatch-
ing business when it can conveniently be done, it will be rather bet-
ter to defer pruning till the latter end of February, unless you do it
before the severe frosts set in.

As to the pruning of stone fruit-trees, I would not recommend it
to be done in the middle or eastern states at this season, for the
reasons assigned in page 224, &c. but in the southern states it may
be now performed with the greatest safety.

Gooseberries and currants being extremely hardy, may be pruned
in any of the winter months; but where it is intended to propagate
the best kinds from the cuttings, it will not be adviseable to prune
or dress them when the ground is so frozen as to prevent your being^
able to plant the good cuttings taken off in pruning.

Other necessary Work.

You must be careful to keep the frost out of the apartments where
the choice winter fruits are put up, for should any of them get fro-
zen they would certainly decay soon after, and rot the others about
them. Examine the fruit which you have on shelves in dry warm
cellars, once every ten days, and take away any that you find taint-
ed: continue over them near a foot thick of clean dry straw, and
secure the windows and doors from the admission of frost.

Take off all moss from your fruit trees, and when it is gathered,
carry it quite om of the garden, to prevent its multiplying by seed,
which it is very apt to do.

Nail or tie up the dangling shoots which are loose on walls or es-
paliers, to prevent their being dashed about by the winds, and con-
sequently their bark injured.

Repair all your decayed espaliers, or prepare stakes and other
materials for so doing as soon as the frost gets out of the ground.

Make or provide and paint, such new frame-work trellises as you
intend to erect next spring, and do every other work that may have
u tendency to forward your business at that season.

Prepare for Forcing Fruit-Trees.

Towards the latter end of this, or the beginning of next month,
put on the glasses or lights on your tire-heat forcing frames, such
as are described in page 40, and immediately prune and nail up the
trees in regular order, if not done before.

Dec] the ORCHARD. 579

By this method the trees will not be so sensible of the sudden
.transition from the depth of winter to spring, when you kindle fires,
as they would if the lights were not now put on; and it will gradu-
ally bring your trees to a state of vegetation, for the works of na-
ture are performed by degrees, and not in a hurry. For general in-
formation respecting the constructing of forcing-frames and houses,
of every kind, and the methods of working them, see the Fruit GaV'
den for January) &c.

SOUTHERN STATES.

In such of the southern states as have not severe frost in winter,
you may now prune apples, pears, plums, cherries, peaches, necta-
rines and apricots; quinces, raspberries, currants, gooseberries, and
every other kind of fruit-tree, the orange family and ihe fig ex-
cepted. You may also plant all the above, and any other sorts with
great propriety at this season, excepting the orange family only.
For the methods of pruning, see January and of planting, see Marcfi\

THE ORCHARD.

Apples and pear-trees that are in a good health, may now be
pruned agreeably to the directions given in page 45, 8cc. to which
I particularly refer you; but it will be better to defer the pruning
of stone fruit trees to February, and of all trees that are in a bad
state of health to the beginning of March, in which month, (page 224,
Sec ) you will find the best methods of treating them for the restora-
tion for their health and vigour.

Rub and scrape oft' moss wherever it appears on your fruit-trees,
it robs them of their nourishment, prevents their free perspiration,
and is an enemy to them in every way-

You may now cart manure into the orchard, and spread it over
the whole ground, if necessary, or over the roots of such trees as
you think are in most need of it; this will not only be of very con-
siderable service to the trees, but also to any crops of grass or
grain, Sec, that you expect off the place the ensuing seasons.

It will be of considerable advantage to new planted trees to lay
long-litter, 8cc. round their roots to protect them from frost, as di-
rected in the Fruit-Garden for this month.

The hedges which enclose your orchard and other compartments,
and that are grown tall, slraggline:, and thin, may now be cut down
and plashed, as directed in page 268; you need be under no appre-
hension of their suffering by frost, especially the white-thorns.

SOUTHERN STATES.

When the ground continues open in winter, or so much so, as
not to interrupt the operation of ploughing, you may manure your

580 THE NURSERY. £Dec.

orchards, and plough such of them as you intend to lay down with
clover, or grass of any kind, or to raise crops of grain or potatoes
in. You may likewise continue to plant and prune all manner of
hardy fruit-trees, but particularly those mentioned in the Fruit-Gar'
den for this month. Here I would recommend to your attention, the
perusal of the article Orchard in January, page 45, February, page
141, and March, page 224.

THE VINEYARD.

In the middle and eastern states, little remains to be done in the
vineyard at this season; indeed it sometimes happens in the former,
that the ground is open in the beginning of the month, in which
case you may plough between the young vines and earth ihem up,
as directed in November, if then on)itted. It will be of considerable
use to lay some litter round the roots, and a little way up the stems
of such tender kinds as were planted in the preceding spring and
autumn, to protect them from very severe frost, till they are once
fully established. For further particulars of what may be done in
this month, in and for the vineyard, as well as in the ensuing, see
page 48.

In the southern states you may now prune vines, as directed in
February; and south of the thirty-fifth degree of latitude, vineyards
may be planted agreeably to the instructions given in March.

THE NURSERY.

JSi\iv Flanted Trees.

Continue the care of the more curious and tender sorts of
new-planted trees and shrubs; where there was no litter laid be-
tween the rows in November, let it be no longer neglected, and
bring it up close to their stems the better to protect all the roots
frorn frost, should the winter prove so severe as to destroy their lops,
which may also be protected as directed in page 588. The roots and
lower parts of their stems being thus preserved, they will generally
shoot out freely in the ensuing spring, from near the surface of the
ground.

Seedling Trees.

Seedlings which make but slow progress in growth the first
year, such as pines, &c. must now be taken due care of, as directed
in page 564.

Pec] the pleasure-garden. 581

The beds of acorns and of any other tree seeds, that were sown
in the preceding months, would be greatly benefited by laying peas-
straw, tern, leaves, straw, or otiier long litter over them, during the
continuance of hard frost; but this must be removeu as soon as the
frost is out of the ground in spring, otherwise it will invite a resort
of mice, 8cc. to destroy the seeds.

Protecting Trees and Shrubs, Sfc. in Fots.

The tall growing plants in pots, which are plunged in warm bor-
ders, and the pots covered with tan as directed in page 564, may if
the kinds are rather tender, require an awning of mats or strong
canvas over them, to protect them from cutting winds, which are
always very injurious to tender plants. The other tender plants,
both shrubby and herbaceous, which you have in pots in frames,
must be duly attended to, as directed in page 572.

SOUTHERN STATES.

Where the ground is open and in good condition for nvorking^ this
is a very proper time to sow hawthorn, holly, yew, mezereon,
red-cedar, juniper and pyracantha berries, and all other seeds that
require a years previous preparation, such as Stewartia Malacoden-
dron, ash, Euonymus, hornbean, Celastrus scandans, Nyssa, and
many other sorts. For the method of performing this work, see the
Nursery for February.

Continue to dig between the rows of young trees and shrubs, and
forward the manuring and tienchingof such pieces of ground, as are
to be planted with young trees in the ensuing months.

You may still continue to make layers and plant cuttings of any
kinds of trees and shrubs that succeed by these means, and also dig
up and transplant suckers. Prune roses and other hardy shrubs,
also forest and young fruit-trees in training. Plant out into nursery
rows the various kinds of hardy deciduous trees and shrubs, as
directed in March; but let it be remembered, that these instruc-
tions are exclusively intended for such parts of the Union as have
not frost during winter, sufficient to prevent the ploughing of
ground.

THE PLEASURE, OR FLOWER-GARDEN.

T'ulipfi, Ilyacluths, Anemones, and Ranunculuses.

Continue to protect your beds of choice tulips, liyacinths,
anemones and ranunculuses tis directed last month; this will be in-
dispensable at present, as December is generally one of the most
severe and cutting months in the year. It would be unnecessary in

582 THE PLEASURE, OR [Dec.

this place to repeat all the instructions given in November for that
purpose, and therefore I refer you to page 5 56, &c. for information.

Some of the Van Thol, and other early tulips, which were plant-
ed in pots in October, may towards the end of this month, be placed
in the Hot-house, or in any other forcing department, to produce a
winter bloom of flowers. Early hyacinths, spring crocuses, snow-
drops, dwarf Persian Iris, and polyanthus-narcissus, may now be
forced in like manner: but observe, that you are to i-eserve a suffi-
ciency of each sort for several successions, so as to have a constant
supply of flowers until those in the open ground begin to blow.

When the plants are just beginning to flower some of them may
be taken in, to decorate parlours and other rooms.

Care of Auriculas and Carnations.

Your choice auriculas and carnations must now be defended from
heavy rains, frost, and snow; but large portions of air must be
admitted to them at every favourable opportunity, otherwise the
auriculas will start to flower at an untimely season, and the carnations
will draw, become weakly, and be good for nothing. Neither of
them are very tender, and consequently should not be kept too
closely shut up.

Polyanthuses and Double Primroses.

The fine polyanthuses and double primroses, require exactly the
same treatment as the auriculas and carnations, which need not be
repeated; the common polyanthuses and primroses, vi'ill succeed
very well in the open borders, but will be the better of a slight co-
vering of straw during the continuance of severe frost.

Sowins: Anemone and Ranunculus Seeds.

The double varieties of the jinemone horCensis, or broad-leaved
garden Anemone, and Ayiemone coronaria, or narrow-leaved, as well
as of the Ranunculus ftcrsica, or Persian Ranunculus, being generally
extremely beautiful, are peculiarly deserving of attention; as all
those delightful flowers, displaying such a diversity of shades and
colours, are only seminal varieties, and as the number of them may
be annually increased, and superior varieties obtained, no good
florist will neglect to sow seeds of each sort every year.

The seeds of either kind, should be procured from semi-double
flowers, for the full double seldom bear any, and those produced
by the single, rarely give double flowers. Care should be taken to
save the seeds from flowers possessed of good properties, that is, such
as have tall strong stems, a considerable number of well-formed
petals, of rich, good, and brilliant colours.

The seed of the ranunculus should remain on the plant, till it
has lost its verdure, and becomes brown and dry, it may then be
cutofi'and spread upon paper, in a dry room exposed to the air;
when perfectly dry, it should be put into a paper bag and kept free

Pec] PLOWER-GARDEN. 583

from all dampness till the time of sowing, otherwise it would be in
danger of contracting a mouldiness, that would infallibly destroy it.
The Anemone seed must be gathered from time to time, as it
opens; for being very downy and light, it will otherwise be blown
away by the first breezes of wind, or fall to the ground and be lost.

It will be found very difficult to sow Anemone seed in a regular
manner: it is united with, and enveloped in a downy substance, that
upon being put together in quantity, adheres in such a manner, as,
to render it necessary to rub it betweea the hands for a considerable
time, in dry sand, previous to sowing; otherwise, the young plants
would rise in clusters and not have space enough to form their
roots.

When you are ready to sow your Ranunculus seed, take it out of
the bag, and if the weather be damp, spread it thin upon a sheet of
paper, before a moderate fire, till it is just warm, and no more; then
rub it out and clean it perfectly from any pieces of the stalk, dried
petals of the flower, or other extraneous matter, which if sown
with it, would create a mouldiness of very destructive consequence.

The last ten days of December, any time in January, or even the
first week of February, the seeds may be sown, but when convenient,
the early sowing is preferable. Each kind should be sown separately
in shallow frames (of either one, two, or three lights, according to
the quantity) provided with glasses, similar to those made use of
for cucumbers and melons; the soil should be taken out at least
two feet deep, and replaced with good and suitable soil, such as
is directed in page 541; out of which the earth worms should be
carefully picked, for these are extremely destructive to the young
plant, which they draw from a considerable distance into their holes
for nutriment.

When the pit is filled, so as to reach about six inches up the
sides and ends of the frame, it should be saffered to remain a few
days to settle; then the surface should be made perfectly smooth
and even, and the seed sown upon it with the utmost regularity,
in such quantity as nearly to cover it, for accidents will befall many
of them; the glasses should be placed on immediately, and the
frame kept closely covered with them, for two or three days till
the seeds begin to swell, observing to cover the glasses effectually
at night and in severe weather to keep out the frost, and also line
the outside of the frame all round to its full height, with tan, leaves,,
or horse -dung, for a similar purpose: a little light earth, should
then be sifted over the seed, through a fine sieve, but not sufficient
to cover it, this should be repeated once or twice a week till the
greater part of the seed disappears. It is proper to remark in this
place, that such seed as happened to be covered deeper than the
thickness of a dollar, will never vegetate, and must of course inevi--
tably perish.

Mr. Millar, in his Gardener's Dictionary, reconnmends the
covering of Anemone and Ranunculus seeds about a quarter of aa
inch deep; he is followed by Maw and Abercrombie, as well as
several other writers; and although these authorities are very
respectable, yet with me, it is very questionable, that either oi them

584 THE PLEASURE. OR [Dec.

ever raised an Anemone or Ranunculus in their lives, from seed
covered to that depth, but more particularly the latter.

It is necessary to keep the seed moderately moist, by gentle
occasional waterings wiih soft water, that has been expo'sed to the
sun, or to fire heat, till the cold chill is off; this should be given
from the rose of a small watering pot, which rose should be of a
hemispherical form, and perforated with very small holes, that will
discharge fine streams of water, in a very distinct and regular
manner; this should be made of copper, it being less liable to cor-
rode than iron.

But although it is necessary to the vegetation of the seed, that it
be kept moderately moist, too great a degree of moisture is never-
theless injurious, especially to the commencement of the spring
heat, and indeed at any period.

When the young plants begin to appear, which if sown in Decem-
ber or early in January, will generally happen about the latter end
of February, earlier or later according to the temperature of the
weather, and the care taken of the frame, refresh them occasionally
with gentle waterings, and give them air at every favourable oppor-
tunity: but be sure to keep the glasses close in very cold weather
and well covered at night; observing also, as the sun gets power-
ful to screen the plants from its mid-day influence, which, sometimes,
would in one hour, destroy the whole.

As the spring advances, more and more air must be admitted, and
on fine days the plants totally exposed, except to a scorching sun,
so as to have them by the latter end of April, or as soon as the smart
night frosts are over, so hardened, as to bear the open air, night and
day; observing to keep them regularly watered, and to give them
the advantage of fine warm showers of rain, when such happen in
due time.

This kind of management is to be continued till the roots are
matured, always taking care to protect the plants, by a screen of
hurdles or thin bass-mats laid over the frame, from the too powerful
influence of the sun, but never keeping this covering over them,
longer than necessary. Their maturity will be known by the
foliage becoming brown, dry, and nearly consumed, which generally
happens, in the middle states, towards the latter end of June, or early
in July.

The speediest and safest method of taking up these small roots,
is to pare off the earth three inches deep, having previously picked
off the dried leaves, and any other extraneous matter that may bfe
found on the bed. The earth and roots thus collected, are to be
thrown into a fine wire seive, that will not permit the smallest roots
to pass through \i, which is to be worked in a large vessel or tub of
water nearly filled, the earthly parts will dissolve and wash away
and the roots remain in the seive, which may be easily picked from
the stones. Sec. The upper rim of the seive must, at all times be
held above the surface of the water, otherwise, some of the small
roots will float over and be lost. The roots are then to be dried
and preserved, as directed for the large roots in page 415, till the
Tatter end of September, or early in October, when they are to be

Dec] flower-garden. \ 585

planted and managed as in pages 541 and 542; observing that they
(being small) may be planted somewhat closer than the large roots,
and will not require to be covered quite so deep.

The ensuing season several of the largest roots will flower,
especially the Ranunculuses, and all of them the third year; at
which time, you should carefully mark such as are worthy of being
preserved, the others may be planted in small clumps in the warm
borders of the garden and pleasure-grounds, there to take chance.
The valuable kinds must be subsequently increased by offsets.

Those who desire to raise these plants upon a small scale, may
sow the seeds in boxes, large pots, or garden pans, of good compost,
observing, to have the bottoms of the boxes, previous to their being
filled, bored Avith several augur holes, which are to be covered with
shells, .or the like, to suffer any extra moisture to pass away freely.
But the former method is much more preferable.

Sowing Auricula, Polyanthus, and Cyclamen seeds.

The surest and best method to obtain fine Auriculas from seed,
is as follows. In the first place the seed should be saved from
young, healthy, strong plants, of capital high-coloured sorts, pos-
sessing the first rate properties: these on the approach of bloom,
should be detached from the rest, to some distant part of the garden,
for fear of the farina of indifferent sorts contaminating ihem, and
there exposed to the full air, the sun (except when too violent)
and moderate rains; from an excess of which, the plants are to be
protected by mats laid on hoops, or by small hand glasses. In dry
weather these plants must be regularly watered, as often as they
appear to require it: much depends on a due attention to this par-
ticular point.

The seed will commonly ripen in June; it is adviseable frequently
to visit the plants at that season, and carefully to gather such pods
or heads of seed as appear perfectly dry, brown, and begin to open;
if all the pods on the same stem are ripe together they may be cut
off with part of the stem to which they are connected; but if some
of the pods are not sufficiently ripe, such as are, should be carefully
picked from the rest as they become so. The seed, thus collected,
should remain in the pericarpiums or seed vessels, in a dry room,
till the season of sowing.

In the last week of December, any time in January, or in the
early part of February, the seed may be sown with every prospect
of success, provided you have the necessary conveniencies. The
early sown seeds, if well managed^ will vegetate better, and the
plants raise more numerously than the late; besides, it will be
of serious importance, to give the plants the advantage of a long
spring vegetation, that they may be as strong as possible, before the
summer heat sets in, which to seedling Auriculas and Polyanthuses
is very destructive, and even to the full grown plants: but if there
is not a suitable convenience, and an opportunity of paying
the necessary, attention, it will be better to defer the sowing till
February.

4 E

586 THE PLEASURE, OR [Dec.

A hot-bed must be prepared, as for early seedling cucumbers,
and a good frame and glass-lighr, set thereon, witli five or six
inches of fine earth, laid all ovei- tir.: bed, to keep down the steam.
Provide a box, or boxes about five or six inches deep, with several
holes on the bottom, fill it wiih compost, and gently shake and
strike it against the ground, till the earth settles a little; make the
surface perfectly smcjotn and even, and sow the seed with the utmost
regularity; then sift through a fine Vi^ired seive, a little compost or
willovv mould upon it, sufficient only, to just cover the seed, and
place the box in the frame on the surface of the bed; the glass
must be set on immediately and the bed so managed as to pre-
serve a moderate and equal degree of warmth, both day and night,
but must be occasionally opened, or the light raised up at the higher
end, to admit fresh air, and to suffer the exhalations from the bed to
pass away, which is a very essential point.

The earth must always be kept moderately moist, both before
and after the plants appear, but never wet; the best method of
watering it, is by means of a hard clolhes-brush, dipped into soft
water, which has had its chill taken of, by standing for some time
in the sun, or in the frame; the hair side being quickly Unued
upwards, and the hand rubbed briskly over it, will cause the water
to fly oft" in particles almost as fine as dew; a sufficient watering
may in this manner be given in a few minutes. If it is found im-
possible to preserve a due heat in the first bed, till the seed has
all vegetated, it will be proper to prepare a second, into which to re-
move the box; but if there are cucumber frames, See. at work, the
box may be removed into any of them that supports a good tempe-
rate heat.

At the expiration of four or five weeks, if well managed, the
young plants will have all made their appearance; it then becomes
necessary to give them, very gradually, more air, in order to harden
and render them fit, in due time, for an entire exposure to it. In
the month of March the plants if forward, should be fully exposed
to the open air, for a few hours in the middle of mild days, when the
sun is not too powerful, but particularly to light warm rains. As
to their subsequent treatment, see the Flower-Garden for Jfiril and
the months following.

If you are apprehensive of the young seedlings being attacked by
snails, &c. which they are very subject to, place a hair band round
the box, when you sow the seed, as directed in page 160.

Polyanthus seed and seedlings, are to be treated exactly in the
same manner as those of Auricula.

Cyclamen seeds, of every kind, may be sown in boxes, during
any of the auluuin or winter months, even to the middle of February,
but when kept out of ground much later, most of them will not
vegetate till the spring following; they may be treated generally
as directed in psge 41f, observing always to protect them from
frost. The CycUancn indicujti, being a hot-house plant, its seed
must be treated accordingly: this species differs from the others, in
not havinu: the divisions of the corolla or flower reflexed, or turned
back, but hanging down, and in the whole corolla being much larger.

Dec.] flower-garden. 587

than either of the Persian, or European kinds. The former kinds
will require no bottom heat, but should be carefully protected by a
good frame and glasses, well covered at nis^hland in severe weather,
so as to prevent the earth in the inside from becomini;^ frozen, but
more particularly after the plants appear; the latter kind must be
sown in a box, which is to be placed in a good hot-bed, as directed
for Anemone seed, and constantly treated as a Hot-House plant;
or it may be plunged in the bark-bed of any forcing department, and
there taken proper care of.

Double Daisies.

Continue to protect and treat your double daisies as directed in
page 5 67. You may now place a few of the best plants which you
have in pots, in some of the forcing apartments, to promote an early
bloom.

Planting Bulbous Roots.

In the early part of this month, should the weather continue
open, or that it is practicable to work the ground, voli may plant
hyacinths, jonquils, tulips, double narcissus, star of Bethlehem,
crocuses, snowdrops, or any other hardy kinds of bulbs that yet re-
main out of ground; but it is wrong, if it can be avoided, to defer
the planting of them to this time. However, it will be better at all
events, to plant the above kinds now, should it be practicable, than
to keep them up till spring; but it will be very proper, and indeed
I may say necessary, to cover the newly-planted beds inimedialely
with straw, or Other ligiit covering, for such roots as have not pro-
duced fibres before the setting in of frost, are much more vulnerable
to it, than those that have.

Polyanthus-narcissus, anemones, or ranunculuses, should not be
planted in the middle or eastern states at this season, unless they
are effectually protected afterwards from rain, snow, and frost; 1
would rather advise to preserve them carefully in dry sand till the
early part of March, or even the middle of that month.

Protect Seedling Bulbs, ^'c.

The various kinds of seedling bulbs, should now be carefully pro-
tected as directed in page 5 66, otherwise many of them will be in-
jured. The boxes in which were sowed, in the preceding months,
the seeds of bulbous rooted flowers, should be treated in like manner.

Protecting Stocks, fFalljiowers, Sfc.

Your double stock-gillyflowers, wallflowers, and other plants of
similar constitutions, which are in frames, must have protection
from rain, snow and severe frost; and it will be necessary during
winter, to give them the full benefit of the air for a few hours in the
middle of mild days, but by no means to expose them or any other
tender plants, to a hot sun whilst in .< frozen stale.

588 THE GREEN-HOUSE. [Dec

JVew -planted Shrubs and Trees.

The more tender or choice kinds of shrubs and trees which were
planted last spring, or in the preceding month, should now have
their roots well protected from frost by laying some wispy dung, or
long litter all round the plants. Some kinds may even require to
have their tops matted round, or each to be completely enveloped
in a coat of long straw, reaching from the ground to the top of the
plant, and terminating there in a point, the whole assuming the
form of a sugarloaf. The straw is to be supported by placing
slender sticks in the earth round the shrub, the tops of which are to
be tied together over it; a few willow twigs should be worked in
between these sticks to prevent the straw from falling in, which
when laid on, is to be bound round by hay bands, willows, or the like.

Hydrangea hortensis, China and Otaheite roses, Prunus
Lauro Cerassus, and small plants of Magnolia grandiflora, Lager-
stroemia indica, double pomegranate and many other valuable shrubs
may be preserved in good condition by this means; and ultimately
inured to the winter frosts without much injury; observe that the
covering is not to be disturbed before the middle of March, in the
middle stales, or the beginning of April in the eastern states; and
even then, it is to be taken off by piece-meal and not all at once,
for too sudden an exposure might do them considerable injury,
should a hard frost or cutting winds ensue.

Other Useful Work.

Should the weather prove open in the early part of the month,
you may continue to prune hardy shrubs and trees; spread your
composi heaps if not done last month, and prepare more if neces-
sary; rake off the fallen leaves of trees, and dig among your clumps
and shrubbery plantations.

In hard frosty weather, when little else can be done in the gar-
den, than the covering and uncovering of tender plants, &c. prepare
lable sticks, to mark or number the various flowers and seeds when
they are planted or sown, and prepare all the tools and every other
necessary convenience for your spring operations.

THE GREEN-HOUSE.

It generally happens that the weather is extremely rigorous in
this month; therefore, more than ordinary attention must be paid
to the Green-House plants. In cold or frosty weather keep the
windows and doors closely shut, and close your window-shutters

Dec] the GREEN-HOUSE. 539

carefully every night, and also in extremly rigorous frosts except
while the sun shines on the windows.

When Green Houses are so constructed as to have no window-
shutters, which is certainly wrong, large thick mats should be
hung and nailed, or made fast by small hooks, in front of the lights
every cold night, and also in the day time when the weather is
very severe, and no sun. It may sometimes be necessary, even
when there are shutters, to hang and nail up mats in front of the
windows, to check the piercing wind. If there are short roof-lights,
they must be covered with mats, or with strong canvas during the
continuance of severe weather; these n^ay be so contrived as to roll
up and fall down, by nieanu of lines and pullies, at pleasure.

During t'.c continuance of severe frost accomfia?iisd by piercing
cuttirg nvincU^ ;.he windows must never be opened, that is, you must
neither slide the lights up or down, but always keep them and the
door or doors close, and any plan'.s that are too near the glsss must
be removed into the interior of the house, especially at night and in
cloudy dark weather.

If you find the frost likely to I'each your plants, notwithstanding
all this care, you must heat the flues by gentle fires at night, and
also in the day time when the frost is very piercing and the wea-
ther dark, and indeed without such a convenience it is almost use-
less to attempt the erection or trouble of a Green-House either in
the middle or eastern states, on account of their extremely rigorous
winters. But you must be particular never to heat the air above
40 or 45 degrees, of Fahrenheit's thermometer; for all the heat that
the plants require at this season, is only just as much as will pre-
serve them effectually from frost.

However, be very particular every day when the weather is
mild and the sun shining on the windows, to slide down the sashes
even if but half an hour, in the middle of the day, to admit fresh
air and ventilate the house; for if the plants are kept too close they
will become tender and weak, and besides, it will cause the leaves
of some kinds to turn of a yellowish sickly colour, and after to get
mouldy and drop off.

N. B. The plants must never be deprived of light by keeping the
shutters close, a moment longer than it is found absolutely neces-
sary for their preservation; and though I am not an advocate for
much fire-heat in a Green-House, yet I would prefer it to keeping
the plants too long in darkness, which has an extremely bad effect
upon them.

For particulars respecting watering and other information, I
would recommend to your perusal at this term, the entire of the
article Green-House, in January, and also in February, pages 86
and 166; the general care during each of these months is nearly
the same.

The plants which you are wintering in garden-frames, must now
be carefully attended, agreeably to the directions given in page 571.

590 [De8.

THE HOT-HOUSE.

The frost generally sets in very severe in this month, and the
winds are keen and cuttinjji therefore it will be necessary to keep
lip your fire heat in proportion to the severity of the weather, which
must be regulated by a thermometer; never letting the air of the
house be colder than 52 degrees of Fahrenheit, nor warmer, at this
season, byjire heat^ than 62 or thereabouts; for it is very injudicious
to force the plants now into a fresh state of vegetation; all that they
want at present is to be kept comfortably warm and rather in an inac-
tive state; consequently as the heat of the day in sunny weather in-
creases, you must slacken your fires or put them totally out, as the
case may be, always renewing them in the afternoon or whenever
you find the due warmth on the decline.

It will be generally necessary to attend the fires till eleven or
twelve o'clock at night, when, if wanted, a sufficiency of fuel must be
added to support a proper degree of heat till morning; and in ex-
tremely severe weather it may sometimes be necessary to sit up all
night to guard against untoward consequences: at all events you
must be up very early in the morning to renew the fires.

If the Hot-House is furnished with shutters or covering of any
kind, as noticed in page 98, they will now be of considerable use,
both for the preservation of the plants and the saving of fuel. It
will, however, be very proper to hang thick mats every severe night
in front of the upright sashes, wliich will prevent the wind from
rushing in immediately on the plants, through any deficiencies that
may be in the work.

If the bark-bed was properly made or renewed in October, or in
the beginning of November, it will yet be in a proper state of warmth,
which is now essentially necessary; if however, towards the end of
the month it is found to be much declined in heat, it should be fork-
ed up, to revive it, as directed in January^ but more particularly so,
if it contains pines for fruiting next season; which must be now
kept rather in a slow state of vegetation, than dormant.

Succession pines, or other plants in pits or in the succession-house,
require the same care as above; observing not to force them by too
much heat, lest the pines start to a fruiting state at an untimely
period. They are never fit to produce handsome sized fruit until
they are two years old, at which age they, in October, should be
placed in the fruiiing-house, for the ensuing years bearing.

The pines and other plants in the Hot-house, Sec. will still re-
quire to be watered occasionally; the former not oltener than
once a week, the shrubby kinds in small pots perhaps twice a week,
but the succulent sorts should, at this season, have but very little,
and that only when you are able to perceive that they are in absolute
want of it; and then let it be given round the edges of the pots,
and not to the plants themselves, for if it should stagnate about
the stems it would infallibly rot them. The varieties of Cactus

Det;.] the hot-house. 591

Melocactus or Turk's Cap, with many others of the most succulent
kinds, should at this season have no water given them, except in
cases of great necessity.

When there happens to come a fine, sunny, calm day, it will be
proper to admit some fresh air into the house, by sliding some of
the glasses, in the warmest part of the day, a little way open, even if
but for half an hour; but be sure to close them again in due time,
and especially if the weather changes to cold or cloudy. This is
best effected at this season, by sliding open a few of the roof-lights
if it can be done with convenience.

Pick off such decayed leaves as you perceive on the various plants,
keep them free from insects and filth of every kind, and the whole
house as sweet and clean as possible.

Sprinkle your flues and walks occasionally with water, to raise a
comforting steam oi moisture in the house; especially when you
are obliged to burn fires constantly night and day. This will pre-
serve the plants from the bad effects produced by the parching in-
fluence of a constant fire-heat, and also tend to prevent an increase
of insects.

You may towards the latter end of this month introduce into the
Hot-House, pots of strawberries and flowering plants of various
kinds; sow cucumber seed, and plant kidney-beans, as directed
in January^ in order to force them into early perfection. Pots or
tubs of bearing grape-vines may also be now introduced for early
fruiting, if there are none trained in from the outside. Such vines
as are planted in front of the house and trained in under the lights,
should have the parts of their stems which are exposed to the
weather, well wrapped round with hay or straw neatly tied on,
also, their roots covered sufficiently with long litter; for their
juices being put into full circulation by the forcing heat, renders the
exposed parts much more vulnerable to frost, than if the entire
plants stood inactive in the open air.

Having now gone through the work of the several months, and
endeavoured to adapt the whole to the seasons and local situations
of the different parts of the Union, to explain and simplify the va-
rious operations, and to render the work of as much general utility
as possible, it is offered to the public as the result of many years ex-
perience, solely devoted to horticultural and botanical pursuits, with-
out presuming to say that it is either infallible, or incapable of im-
provement.

/

CATALOGUE

KITCHEN-GARDEN ESCULENT PLANTS AND HERBS.

CQTimoT<f KAUZS.

ARTICHOKE, Garden

1. Green Globe. 2. White Globe.
3. French.

Artichoke, Jerusalem

Asparagus, the Garden

1. Dutch. 2. Gravesend. 3. Bat-
tersea. 4. Large Jersey.

Bean, The common Garden

1. Early Mazagan. 2. Early Lis-
bon. 3. Long podded. 4. Com-
mon field or horse. 5, Dwarf
Cluster. 6. White Blossom. 7.
Red Blossom. 8. Large Windsor.
9. Large Toker. 10 Broad Spa-
nish. 11. Mumford. 12. Green Non-
pareil. 13. Turkey Long pod. 14.
Green Genoa, &c.

Bean, The Dwarf Kidney

1. Early Yellow Dwarf. 2. Early
Cream-coloured do. 3. Early
speckled do. 4. Early White do.
5. Early Brown-speckled do. 6.
Negro Dwarf. 7. Large White
do. 8. Purple-speckled do. 9.
Black-eyed do. 10. Red-speokled
do.

Runnm^ Kinds.
1. Corn Beans. 2. Large White
Runners. 3. Cream-coloured Run-
ners. 4. Round White Runners,
&c.

Bean, Scarlet Runners
Lima beans
Carolina do.

Beet, The Coramou

1. Red Beet.

2. Long Red do.

BOTANICAL NAMES.

Cynara Scolymua

Selianthus tuber ostis
Asparagus officinali*

Vicia Faba

Phaseobis vulgaris, v. Pumilte

V. volubilia

\. coccmea
Phaseolus Umensis

V.

Beta vulgaris

V. rubra vulgaris
V. rubra major

KITCHEN-GARDEN ESCULENT PLANTS, &c. 593

3. Turnep-rooted Beet

4. Yellow-rooterl do.

5. Green or White do.

6. Mangel-Wurzel, or Root of

Scarcity
Borage, Common
Borecole, Purpled-curled
Green-curled
Siberian or Scotch
Brussels Sprouts
Finely Fringed
Broccoli, Italian

1. Early Purple. 2. Early Green.

3. Large Late Purple. 4. Large

White.
Cabbage, Heading

1. Early Smyrna. 2. Early York.

3. Early Heart-shaped. 4. Early

Battersea. 5. Early Antwerp. 6.

Early Dwarf. 7. Early Sugar-loaf.

8. Large Late Sugar-loaf. 9. Large

Scotch. 10. Large English. 11.

Large Drum-Head. 12 Flat-Dutch.

13. Large Late Battersea. 14. Red

Pickling.
Cabbage, Turnep

Turnep-rooted
Jerusalem Kale
Cabbage, Savoy

1. Green. 2. Yellow. 3. Milan.
Calabash, or Bottle-gourd
Cardoon, Spanish
Carrot, Long Orange

Early Horn do.
Cauliflower, Early

Late do.
Celery, Italian upright

1. Solid stalked. 2. North's I<arge,

3. Patagonian. 4. Red-stalked

Solid.
Celeriac, Turnep-rooted Celery
Chervil

Chives or Cives
Coriander
Corn, Indian
Corn-sallad
Cress, or Pepper-grass

1. Narrow-leaved. 2. Broad-leaved.

3. Curled-leaved.
Cress, Winter, or Sallad Scurvy-grass.
Cress, Water
Cucumber, Common

1. Early Frame. 2. Early Prickly.

3. Early Cluster. 4. Long Prickly.

5. Long Green Turkey. 6. Long

White Turkey. 7. Long Roman.

8. White Spined.
Cucumber, Round Prickly
Egg-Plant

1. Purple-fruited.

2. White-fruited.
Endive, Green-curled

White-curled

Broad-leaved
Finochio

Garlick, Cultivated
Gourd-Squa^

4

V. ntbra, radice rapx

V. lutea major

V. pallide virens major

Cicla

Jiorago officinalis

Brassica olerucea laciniaia
o/eracea selenice<i
oleracea sabellica

Srassica oleracea italica

Brassica oleracea capitata

Brassica oleracea JVapobrassiqfi
JVupus sativa

Brassica oleracea sahauda

Cucurbita lagenaria
Cynara Cardunculus
Dauciis Carota

Brassica oleracea botrytis

Apium g-raveolens dulce

Apium. graveolens rapaceum
Scandix Cerefolium
Allium Schanoprasum
Coriandinim sativum
Zea J\luys

Valeriana Locusta olitoria
Lepidium sativum,

Erisymum Barbarea
Sisymbrium JVastiirtium
Cucumis ^ativus

Cucwnis Attguria
Solanum Melongena

Cichorium Endivia

Anethum azoricum
tfillium sativum
Cucurbita Mfilopepv
F

594

KITCHEN-GARDEN

Ground Nut

Arachis hypogiPa

Leek, Common

AUium Porrum

NaiTow -leaved

Broad-leaved

Lettuce, or Sallad

Lactuca sativn

1. White Cos. 2. Gi^en Cos.

3. Eg:}pt.iHn Cos. 4. Black Cos.

5 Aleppo. 6. India. 7. Brown

Dutch 8. Common Cabbage.

9. Imperial. 10. Grand Admiral.

11 Hammersmith Hardv-a;reen.

12 lennisball. 13. New" Zea-

land. 14. Large Royal. 15 Ma-

deira. 16. Sa.\onj' Cabbage, &c.

Melon, Musk

Cucumis Melo

1. Early Romana. 2. Early Can-

taleupe. 3. Early Small Zatte.

4. Early Succado. 5. Black Por-

tugal. 6. Golden Rock. 7 Large

Mogul. 8. Minoica 9. Large

African. 10 Rock Cantaleupe.

11. Netted Green-flesh. 12. Japan

'

Rock. 13. Nutmeg, Sic.

Melon, Water

Cucurbita Ciirulbis

1. Long Red-flesh. 2. Long Yel-

low-flesh. 3. Large Round' Red-

flesh. 4. Green-flesh do.

Mushroom

Agaricus campestris

Mustard, White

Sinapis alba

Black

nigra

Nasturtium, Large

Tropaolnm majus

Okru

Hibiscus escnientut

Onion, Common

Allium Cepa

1. Strasburg. 2. White Spanish.

3. Silver-skinned. 4. Madeira.

5. Long-keeping. 6. Blood-red.

7. Welsh

Jistulosum

8. Tree

canndeiise

Orach, or English Lamb's-quarter

Atriplex hortensis

Large Green-leaved

Red -leaved

Parsley, Common

Apium petroselinum sativum

Curled

crispum

Hamburg, or Large-rooted

latifolium

Parsnep, Long Garden

Pastinaca sativa

Patience Dock

Rvmea: Patientia

Pea, Garden

Pisum sativum

1. Early Frame. 2. Early Golden

Hotspur. 3. Early Charleton do.

4. Spanish Dwarf. 5. Dwarf Su-

gar. 6. Leadman's Dwarf. 7.

Tall Sugar 8 Sugar Poland. 9.

Blue Prussian. 10. Green Impe-

rial Marrow. 11. Dwarf Marrow-

fat. 12. White Rouncival. 13.

Large Green do. 14. Large

Gray. 15. Spanish Morotto 16.

Common Fieltl. 17. Pearl, or

Nonesuch. 18. Essex Reading.

19. Albany. 20. Glory of En-

gland. 21. Large Marrowfat. 22.

Dutch Admiral.

Pepper, Red or Guinea

Capsicum annuum

1. Long-podded

V. longioribus siliquis

2. Heart-shaped

V. cordiforme

3. Bell

V. tetrdgonum

4. Cherry, See.

V. cerasiforme

ESCULENT PLANTS, &c.

595

Potatce, Common
Polatoe, Sweet
Pumpkin, or I'ompion

Many varieties.
Badish, Garden

1. Karly Frame. 2. Early Purple
Short-top. 3. Salmon Shoit-top.

4. Common salmon. 5. White
Short-top. 6. White Turnep-
rooted. 7. Red Turnep-rooted.
8. White Winter Radish. 9.
Black Winter do. 10. White
Naples, he.

Radish, Horse

Ruta Baga, or Swedish Turnep
K»mpion, Esculent
Rape, o'- Cole-seed
Rocambole
Salsafy
Scorzonera
Sea-Kale, or Cabbage
Shallot
Skirret

'Sorrel, Broad-leaved
Round-leaved
Spinach, 1. Prickly-seeded

2. Burdock. 3 Round-leaved.
Squash, Warted

Man) varieties.
Tomatoes, or Love-apple
Turnep, Cultivated

1. Early Dutch. 2. Eaily Stone.

3. Early Green. 4. Yellow Round.

5. Large Red-topped. 6. White
Round 7. Tankard. 8. Large Eng-
lish Field. 9. Swedish, or Ruta Baga.
10. Long Fi'ench.

Solannm tuberosum
Convolvulus Batatas
Cucurbita Pepo

Raphanus aativus

Cochlearia Jlrmoracia
Brassica Rapa
Campamda Mapunculiis
Brassidu -^'afnis
Jlllium Scorodoprasum
Tragopogon porrifolium
Scorzoiwra hispanica
Crambe maritima
Mlium Ascalonicum
Sium sisartim
Jtumex Jicetosa
acutatus
Spinacia oleracea

Cucurbita verrucosa

Solanum Lycopersicum
Brassica Rapa

AROMATIC, POT, AND SWEET HERBS.

ANISE

Basil, Sweet

Bush
Caraway
Clary
Coriander
Chamomile
Dill
Fennel, Common

Sweet
Hyssop
Lavender
Lovage
Marigold, Pot
Marjoram, Sweet
Pot

Winter Sweet
Mint, Spear

Pepper

Pennyroral

Pimpivella Anisum
Ocyrmim Basilicum medium

minimum
Carmn Garui
Salvia sclarea
Coriandrum sativum
Anthemis nobilis
Jinethvm graveolens
Anet/nan Foenicidum

v. dulce
Hyssopus officinalis
Lavendida Spica
Ligusticum Levisticum
Calendula officinalis
Origanum JVlajorana
Onites

heracleoticum
Mentha vtrides

piperita

Pulegium

596

MEDICINAL PLANTS.

Mint, Horse
Rosemary
Sage, Common
Savory, Summer

Winter
Smallage
Tarragon
Thyme, Common

Lemon

JMonarda punctata
Hosmarimis officinalis
Salvia officinalis
Satureia hortensis
montana
Jlpium graveolens
Artemisia Dracwiculus
I'hymu^ vulgaris
serpyllum

PLANTS CULTIVATED FOR MEDICINAL PURPOSES, &c

.Ague-weed, Thoroughwort

Angelica, Garden

Betony, Wood

Bugloss

Carduus benedictua

Celandine

Comfrej', Common

Cucumber, Bitter

Elecampane

Flax, Common

Fenugreek

Feveifew

Foxglove

Gromwell

Hemlock

Horehound

Hound's-tongue

Liquorice

Madder, Dyer's

Mallow, Marsh

Mugwort, Common ,

Nei>, or Catmint

Nettle, Stinging

Palma Christi, or Castor-oil Nut

Pimjjernel

Pink-root, Carolina

Poppy, Opium

Rue, Garden

Rhubarb, True Turkey

Common
Scurvy-grass
Snake-root, Virginia
Southernwood '
Tansey
'I'obacco, Cultivated

Common English
Weld, Woad, or Dyer's-weed
Winter Cherry
Wormseeil, Goosefoot
Wormwood
Yarrow

Sweet or Milfoil

Enpatorium perfoliatum
Angelica Archangelica
Setonica officinalis
Anchusa officinalis
Centaurea benedicta
Chelidonum majus
Sijmphytiim officinale
Cncumis Colocinthtis
Inula helenium
Z.inum usitatissim^im
Trigouella Fcenum Gr<ecum
Matricaria Partheniitm
Digitalis purpurea
IMhospermum officinale
Conium maculatum
Marriibium vulgare
Cynoglossom officinale
Glycyrrhiza glabra
JRubia tinctormn
Altliaa officinalis
Artemisia vulgaris
JVepeta Cataria
Urtica urens
Hicinus communis
Anagalis arve?isis
Spigelia marilandica
Papaver somnifenim
Ruta graveolens
Rheum palmatum

Rhaponticum
Cochlearia officinalis
Aristolochia serpentaria
Artemisia Abrotamnn
'I anacetum vidgare
JVicotiana Tabacum
rusticum
Reseda Luteola
Pliysalis Alkekengi
Chenepodium anthelminticvm
Artemisia Absin thium
Achillea JMillefoHiim
Agerat7{m

697

GRASSES AND OTHER PLANTS USED IN FARMING.

The following are selected, as the most important and valuable
plants, used in rural economy: the grasses and other plants cultiva-
ted tor their foliage, are particularly such as have been found to
merit attention; a knowledge of their true names is the first step
towards obtaining them, and when obtained, it is of serious impor-
tance, to cultivate each sort in the soil and situation best adapted to
its nature, which is carefully pointed out in the following list.

The judicious cultivation of grasses, though the least expensive
and most profitable part of husbandry (for on it every other part
may be said to depend) has hitherto been too much neglected by the
generality of our farmers, and in this, they have been blind to their
best interests.

In order to be successful, a farmer should endeavour to procure
and cultivate, such grasses and other vegetable productions, as are
peculiarly adapted to the various soils, of which his plantation is
composed; so that every spot, from the dryest hill to the wettest
swamp, may be employed in yielding him profitable productions.

Those marked thus *, are indigenous, or native plants of the
United States, and such as are marked thus, t? of the West Indies
and warmer parts of America.

GRASSES.

•Brome, Purging

Barnet, Field

*Blue

Canary, Reedy

Clovei', Red

W'liite
Yellow

*Cocks-foot, Swamp

*Canadian, Keedy

Dogs-tail '

Fox-tail, Meadow

Fiorin

*Fescue, Flote
*Tail
*Meadow

* Green

■j-Guinea (fi)

•Herd

Lucern

]Meadow, Rough stalked
Soft
Water
"Creeping
* Smooth stalked
*Five nerved

Bromus purg-atis Qivet soil)
Poterium Sanpridsorba {dn/ good soil)
Poa compressa {dry Jields)
Phalaris amndinacia {wel soil)
Trifolium pratense {^moderately dry)
repens {rich dry soil)
ochroleucuin {dry ground)
Dae ty lis Cynosuroides {swamps)
Cinna arundinacea {moist soil)
Cynosurus cristatus {dry ground)
Alopecurns pratensis {vioist soil)
Jigrostis stolonifera (ivei or moist soil)
Festuca.fluitans {stuamps)

elaiior {moderately moist)
pratensis {moderately dry)
Poa vindis {nch and tolerably moist)
Panicum maximum {strong warm soil)
Jigrostis stricia {ivet or moist soil)
Medicago saliva {a rich, dry sandy loam\
Poa trivialis {moist soil)
Holcus lunutus {moist soil)
Poa aqiuitica {swamp)
Poa sto'onijera {-luet)
Poa pratensis {dry soil)
Poa Jiervaia {ivet)

(a) This grass is by much too tender to bear the winter frosts of the middle of
eastern states, but succeeds well iu Georgia, aud in the warmest parts of South
Carolina.

598

GRASSES AND OTHER PLANTS

Medic, Yellow

Hop
Oat, Tall meadow

Yellow
•Oichard

+ Peruvian (6)
Ray, English
Saiat-Foin,

Sweet scented vernaJ

Timothy
Trefoil

Me(Ucago falcata {dry soil)

lupuHna
Avena elutior {moderately dry)

Jiavescens {good dry ground)
Dactylis glomevatu {orchards and »i»-

derately dry meadow)
Paspalium slonotiferum
Ijolhim perenne {rich and tolerable moist)
Hedysarvm Onnbrychis {dry deep soil,

but answers well on poor gronnd.)
Anthocsaiithum odorulum {moderatelg

dry)
Phleum prafeiise {moist and upland)
JMedicago Ivpulina

GRAINS, &o.

Barley, Spring
Winter
Two-rowed
Naked
Buck-wheat
Corn, Indian
Guinea
Broom
Millet, Large
German
Italian
Oat, Cultivated,

Varieties, 1. White. 2. Black. 3.
Brown. 4. Potatoe. 5. Poland. 6.
Friezland. 7. Siberian. 8, Tartarian.
Oat, Naked

Oriental
Peas, Field
liye, Spring
Winter
Upland
Rice, Common
Tares, Common
*Tol>acco, Virt;inian
Teasel, Fiillei's
Wheat, Spring
Winter
Egyptian
Weld, Dyer's
Woad, do.
Liquorice, Common

Hordeum vidgare

hexastichon
distichon
V. 7iudiun

Polygonum Fagopyrum

Zea JMays

Holcus Sorghum

saccharatiis

Panicum miliaceum

Germanicum
Italicum

Avena Sativa

Avena nuda

orientalis

Pisum satixmm

Secah cereale, v. vemutu
V. hybernum
V. montanum

Oryza sativa (c)

Vicia sativa

A''icutiana Tabaciim

Jhpsachus fuUo7ium

Triticxtm .tstixum
hyhernvm
comfjositum

Reseda luteola

Isatis tinctoria

Glycyrrhiza glabra

Potatoes, Common
f Sweet
Scarcity Root
Rhubarb, True

ROOTS, &c.

Solanum tuberosum
Convolvidus Batatat
JSJangel wurzel
Rheum palmatum

(S) This is nearly as tender as *he preceding, and tlierefore not answerable for
the middle or eastern states. The Avena elatior or tall Oat-grass, is by mistake called
Peruvian and Andes grass, in the county of Delaware, near Philadelphia, and in part
of the state of Delaware, where it is cultivated; it is called meadow oats, about Lan-
caster, Pennsylvania.

(f) There is a variety of this, that grows well on drylands, which is now cultivated
near the Muskingum and in other parts of the United States, and is likely to bccom*
of considerable importance.

USED IN FARMING. &c. 599

Turnep, Common JBrassica Rapa

Swedish or Rata Baga, a va-
riety.

ARTICLES FOR MANUFACTURING.

•Cotton, Gossypinm herbaceum

Flax Linnm itdtatissimwn

Hamp Cannabis sativa.

INDEX.

Acacia, rose, 301

Aconite, winter, 354, 501

Agaves, 361, 402, 508, 547

Alaternus, 337

Alcoves, rural, 7 1

Alder, 266,291

Alexanders, or Alesanders, 206,

325, 521, 558
Aletris, 353, 354, 469
Alkekengi, 352
Allamanda cathartica, 457
Allspice, Carolina. See Calycan-

thus floridus
Almond, fruit-bearing, 45, 214,

251, 441,465
double-flowering dwarf, 107,

164
Aloes, 91, 166, 179, 361, 363,

402, 507, 548
Althaea Frutex, or Hibiscus sy-

riacus, 258, 275, 301 --■
Alyssum, sweet, 352-'
Amaranthus tricolor, 162, 298,

350, 352, 396, 424

tree, 352, 424

spike, 352, 424

globe, 352, 424

Amaryllis, scarlet, 79, 358, 396,

569

yellow, 79, 416, 468

■ Belladonna, 416, 428, 468,

571
sarniensis, 398, 416, 428,

468,571
Amorpha fruticosa, 30 1
Andromedas, 276
Anemone, general care and treat-
ment of, 81, 161, 164, 294,

345, 393, 566

4 G

Anemone, description of a fine

double, 394

taking up the roots, 415

method of planting the best

sorts, 502, 542, 565

sowing seed of, 582

Angelica, garden, 206, 410, 520

tree, 301

Anise, 207

Annual flowers, tender, 162, 29§,

350, 351, 396

hardy, 158, 298, 351, 396

Antirrhinum, See Snapdragon
Antholizas, 167, 428, 507
Anthyllises, 452
Apocynum ,and rosoemifoliutn,

448
Apple-tree, 25, 136, 214, 216,

333, 524, 562, 578
— — sowing kernels of, 157, 259,

536
gathering and preserving

the fruit of, 528
Apricot, 29, 136,214,441
Arbors, rural, 74
Arbor Vitaea, common, 272,291,

337

Chinese, 59, 273, 291, 337

Arbutus Unedo, or Strawberry-
tree, 59, 355, 361, 548
Arcades, rural, 75
Arethusa ophioglossoides, 80
Art of improving different soils,

312
Artichokes, garden, common care

of, 22, 135, 436, 460
spring dressing of, 203,

3 25
— — making new plantations of,
203, 32§

602

INDEX.

Artichokes, sowing seed of, 204,

325
— — varieties of, 204

winter dressing of, 558

Artichoke, Jerusalem, 213, 326
— — to preserve in winter, 556
Ash, common kinds of, 148, 272,

301, 533

manna, 286

round-leaved, 286

Asclepias, hardy herbaceous

kinds, 79, 353, 425
■' curassavica, 457, 469
Asparagus, forcing, 19, 123,559,

576

spring dressing of, 192, 322

making new plantations of,

193,322

sowing seed of, 1 94, 322

method of cutting, 192

.. ordinary care of, 322, 379,

407, 460
— — winter dressing of, 519, 553
Asters, hardy herbaceous kinds,

79, 159, 299, 352,425

China, 299, 352, 424

Aucuba japonica, 363, 452
Auriculas, common care of, 80,

159, 295, 345, 395, 450, 467,

499,536
sowing seed of, 160, 295,

585
• desci'iption of a fine double,

346
■■ compost suitable for, 247

new potting of, 347, 395, 467

— — slipping for propagation,

347, 395, 450,467
— — preparation for winter pro-
tection of, 567, 582
Avenues, 70
Azaleas, or upright American

Honey- suckles, 276, 301

B

Babianas, 167, 507
Balm, common, 206, 520

Moldavian, 352

ofGilead, 363

Balsam, double striped, 163-, ISO,

298, 352, 424
Banqueting-house, rurajji7l

Bark-stove, 92

Basil, sweet, 207, 325, 382

Bay, sweet, 62, 355

Beans, early Mazagan, Windsor,

&c. 134, 187, 319, 373

to top when in blossom, 373

Beans, kidney, to force, 105, 125,

180, 591
— — in the open ground, 328,

375,407,434, 461
— — Lima and Carolina, 376,

408,463
Bear's-foot, 501
Beech-tree, 75, 264, 301, 535
Beet, red, 133, 195, 208, 222,

322, 379, 408

green and white, 195, 379

to preserve in winter, 556

Bignonias, 291, 413, 457
Belladonna Lily, 416, 428, 468,

571
Belvedere, or Summer Cypress,

352
Benjamin-tree, 301
Berberries, 45, 234, 528
Blackthorn, or Sloe-tree, 267
Bladder-nut, 148, 301
Bladder-senna, 30 1
Bladder Ketmia, or Hibiscus tri-

onum, 352
Blossoms of early wall fruii-trees,

to protect, 220, 334
Board-edgings, 79
Borage, 207, 382
Borecole, or Scotch Kale, 192,

316, 371,405, 430, 459, 555
Bowers, rural, 71, 74
Box edgings, common care of,

79, 425, 450, 503, 546

planting, 302, 356, 503, 547

clip or trim, 356, 425, 450,

503,547
Bridges, ornamental, 68, 72
Broccoli, Italian or Cauliflower,

191, 318,372,406
to preserve for winter use,

556
Brawallia, 162, 352, 396
Brussels sprouts, 317, 372, 405
Buckthorn, sea, 291
Budding or Inoculating, 414, 428,

438,441, 465,472, 497

INDEX.

603

Budding, methods of, 442

Buddleias, 363

Bulb-glasses, 84

Bulbs, planting various sorts of,

84, 294, 445, 502, 542, 566, 587
taking up early flowering,

394, 395,416
treatment of seedling, 395,

568, 587
sowing seeds of, 468, 499,

544

■ planting in glasses and pots,
84, 545, 568

observations on the late

planting of, 82
Bupthalmum fruticosum, 427
Burnet, garden, 206, 382, 520

C

Cabbage, care of autumn sown
plants, 129, 185, 512, 554, 574

— — sowing seed in winter,
spring and summer, 21, 130,
185, 316, 371, 405, 436, 459
' planting out finally, 185,
316, 371, 405, 430,459

■ planting large cabbages for
seed, 208

— — earthing up, 371

— — tying up the leaves to

whiten, 371
— — sowing seed in autumn to

produce early sumnaer cab-
bages, 479
— — preserving full grown heads

for winter and spring use, 555
Cabinets, rural, 74
Cactuses, 166,179,361,363,402,

507,548
Calceolarias, 353
Callicarpa americana, 363
Calycanihus floridus, 277, 301
Camellia japonica, 363, 452
Campanulas, in sorts, 299, 300

nettle-leaved, 353

Candytuft, 159, 299, 352
Canker in trees, to prevent or

cure, 142, 143
Canna indica, 363
Canterbury-bells, 159, 299, 300,

425
Cape Bulbs, 167, 364, 428, 507

Cape Bulbs, compost for, 507

Capparis, or Capre-shrub, 363

Capsicums, 208, 327, 380, 410,
437

Caraway, 207, 327, 329

Cardoon, Spanish, 205, 325, 382,
409, 436, 462,479, 557

Carnations, general care and cul-
ture of, 79, 80, 159, 162, 164,
295,299, 300, 349, 352, 395,
418,445, 467, 499, 536, 567,
582

description of a fine double,

420

— — to card, or assist in blow-
ing, 418, 409, 445

laying and piping, 421, 422

to force into early bloom,

107, 180, 311

compost for best kinds, 295

Carrots, 21, 133, 190, 208, 321,
377,378,408,431

■ to preserve for winter use,
556

Cascades, 68

Cassia, hardy sorts, 79

— — chamaecrista, 352

marilandica, 353, 469

Catalogue of Kitchen-garden es-
culent plants and herbs, 592

of aromatic, pot, and sweet

herbs, 595

of plants cultivated for

medicinal purposes, 596
■ of grasses and other plants
used in farming, 597

Catalpa-trec, 270, 301

Catchfiy, perennial, 159, 300

Lobel's, 299, 352

— — double, 501

Caterpillars on fruit trees, to
destroy, 387

Caterpillar-plant, 299, 352

Cauliflowers, care of autumn
sown plants, 20, 127, 184, 514,
554, 574

sowing seed of, in winter

and spring, and subsequent
treatment of the plants, 20,
127, 128, 184, 315

early planting of, under

bell or hand-glasses, 184

604

INDEX.

Cauliflowers, lime and method of

planting the principal crop,

314

■ sowing seed for late or win-
ter flowering, 315, 370
defending the flowers from

sun and wet, 370, 405

planting late, 370, 405, 431

, • the proper time in autumn

to sow, 48 1
— — winter preservation of full

grown plants, 556
— — best method of procuring

good Cauliflowers in the

southern states, 514
Caves, rural, 72
Cedar, red, 148,265, 337

of Lebanon, 59, 273, 337

white, 272, 337

Celandine, 206

Celeriac, or turnep-rooted celery,

191, 556
Celery, 130, 191, 321, 378, 406,

431, 460, 479
I to raise early, in the open

ground, 322
to preserve, for winter use,

557
Celsias, 363
Centaureas, 363
Chamomile, double, 159, 206,

300, 469, 520
Chelone glabra, 353, 469
Cherry-tree, 27, 136, 214, 216,

524, 562
double flowering, 107, 164,

301
Chervil, 199,325,381, 479
Chesnut, Spanish, or swee«t, 45,

234,271, 311,534
Chironias, 80
Chrysanthemum, 424
Chrysocoma, 363
Christmas-rose, 501
Chives, 198, 323, 522
Cineraria lanata, 452
Cinerias, 363
Cjstuses, 59, 363
Citron-tree, 472
Clary, 207
Cleome, 352
Clethra, 30]

Clinopodium, 353

Clumps of trees and shrubs, 69

Cock's-combs, 298, 352, 424

Codlins, 528

Colchicum, 79, 395, 416, 468

Collecting seeds, 437

plants, 79, 469

Columbine, 159, 299, 300
Colutea, 363
Composition, Forsyth's, 225

Barnes's, 227

Compost, for Carnations and

Pinks, 295
for Auriculas and Polyan-
thuses, 347

for Cyclamens, 417

for Pine-Apples, 454

for Tulips, 537

— — for Hyacinths, 539

for Ranunculuses and Ane-

moiiies, 541, 542
for the generality of Green

and Hot-House plants, 510
Comptonia asplenifolia, 301
Conservatory, 90
Convolvuluses, 299, 352
Coreopsis, 80, 353, 354, 425
Coriander, 199, 325, 382
Cork-tree, 378
Corn, Indian, 370
Cornsalad, 461, 479, 553
Coronilla, 361, 363, 427
Corrosive solution, 142
Cottages, rural, 71
Cotyledons, 548

Crab and Apple-tree hedges, 565
Crassulas, 358
Crocuses, spring, 79, 164, 394,

416,468, 502, 543

autumnal, 395, 416, 468

Crown Imperials, 79, 394, 416.

445, 468, 502,543

sowing seed of, 468

Cucubalus stellatus, 353, 469
Cucumbers, in hot-beds, 11, 14.

118, 122, 181, 183, 313, 366

seedling beds for, 12

stopping or topping, 121

impregnating the female

flowers of, 1 82
in the Hot-House, 106, 180,

591

INDEX.

605

Cucumbers, under bell or hand-
glasses, 183
in the open ground, 328,

368, 429

for late pickling, 430, 462

— — serpent, 352

squirting, 352

Curculio, to prevent the ravages

of, 144
Currants, pruning, 33, 138, 222,

526

planting, 38, 222, 561

pi'opagating, 61, 150, 292,

561
— — sowing seed of, 561
Cuttings, to propagate trees and

shrubs by, 61, 150, 290, 337,

498, 533, 546
Cyanella, 167, 507
Cyanus, 299, 352, 469
Cycas revoluta, 507, 548
Cyclamen, 363, 417, 428
—— propagating by seed, 417,

586
' indicum, 417, 586
Cypress, deciduous, 272

evergreen, 59, 355,548

Cypripediums, 80, 354, 469

D

Daffodils, 543

Daisies, double, 107, 164, 297,

354, 544, 567, 587
Daphne odora, 548, 571
Dens Canis, or Erythronium

Dens Canis, 394, 445, 502, 543
Dictamnus, or Fraxinella, 554
Diervilla, 29 1,301
Dill, 207, 325, 521, 558
Dodecatheon Meadia, 354, 469
Dog's-bane, tustan-leaved, 448
DogvFood, 301
Dolichos, purple, 352, 363

white, 352, 363

Dracocephalums, 79, 159, 353,

354,425,469, 501
Draining of land, 46, 109
Drawing-frame, for flowering

plants, 351
Dry Stove, 103

E
Early crops, prepare for, 0

Edging-iron, 78

Edgings, methods and time of
planting, 302, 356, 547

of boards, 79

Egg-plant, or Solanum, Melon-

gena, 327, 381, 409, 437
— - particular account of, 327
Elder, 266, 291
Elm-tree, 71, 264, 301, 533
Elecampane, 521
Endive, 328, 381, 409, 430, 461,

478,518
to preserve for use in win-
ter, 557
Engine, garden, for watering,

333, 334
Ericas, or Heaths, 107, 361, 452
Erodiums, 452
Erythronium americanum, 469,

543
Dens Canis, 394, 445, 502,

543
Espalier fruit trees, advantage of

and method of forming, 24
< to train in the Nursery while

young, 56, 214, 216
Euonymus, or Spindle-tree, 301
Eupatoriums, 469
Euphorbias, 179, 361, 563, 402,

469
Evergreen trees and shrubs,

planting, 302, 337, 355, 498,

504,53*5
to trim in summer, 414, 498

Fair Maids of France, 501

Fennel, common, 206, 520

sweet, 207

Azorian, 207, 325, 462

Fenugreek, 207

Ferraria Tigridia, 473

undulata, &c. 363

Feverfew, 159, 206, 300

Fig-trees, planting and propagat-
ing, 217, 528

pruning, 216

the different varieties of,

219

care of, 464, 562

Filbert-tree, 45, 234, 251, 528

tograft, 250, 251

606

INDEX.

Finochio, 207, 325, 462

Fir-trees. See Pines and Firs

Flos Adonis, 159, 299, 352

Flower-de-luce. See Iris

Flower-Garden, to lay out, 79

— — work to be done in, for
January, 62. February, 158.
March", 293. April, 3 10. May,
390. June, 415. July, 445.
August, 467. September, 499.
October, 5 35. November, 565.
December, 581

Flowering-shrubs, to train, 57

Forcing-frames, for fruit-trees,
&c. the cons'.ruclion and vari-
ous kinds of, with the methods
of working them, 35 to 44

for flowers, 36, 164

Forcing early fruit-trees, 35, 42,
140,224, 311,335,578

flowers, in the Hot-House,

&c. 83, 107, 164,311,582, 590

— — flowers, in hot-beds, 83, 1 64,
582

Forest-trees, and ornamental har-
dy shrubs, sowing seeds of, 157,
291, 337

training when young, 57

planting, 60, 291, 301, 337,

355, 535, 546, 564, 569

Foss, 73

Fothergilla alnifolia, 301

Fountains, rural, 72

Fowls, barn-door, their use in
Orchards, 142, 145

Foxglove, 159, 299, 300

Framing, introduction to, 1 1

Framing-ground, 13

Franklinia, 277

Fraxinella, 354

French Honeysuckle, 159

Marigold, 424

Fringe-tree, 276, 301

Fritillaries, 79, 394, 416, 445,
468, 502, 543

sowing seed of, 468, 499

Fruit, thinning of, 384

to preserve for winter keep-
ing, 528

'■' '■ preserving the stones of, to
plant, 466, 528

Fruit, preserving the kemels of,
528

planting or sowing the

stones of, 152, 259, 498,535

• sowing the kernels of, 157,

259, 264, 536

Fruit-trees, newly grafted, care
of, 338, 390, 414, 438, 466

■ grafted or budded, the pre-
ceding year, care of, 258, 259,
338, 390

— — budded in the present sea-
son, care of, 466, 497

luxuriant and unfruitful,

how to bring to a bearing state,
143

to correct roughness in,

and renew the bark of, 530

Fuchsia coccinea, 168, 311, 363,

427, 548
Fumigating the Hot-House, &c.

176, 508

G

Galega virginiana, 353, 354, 469
Galleries, of hedge-work, 74
Gardenias, 363
Garlick, 198, 323, 522, 554
Geissorhiza obtusata, 167,507
Genistas, 363
Gentianas, 354, 469
Gentianella, 159, 300, 469
Geraniums, 94, 168, 363, 427,

452
Gerardias, 79," 353, 354, 469
Gladioluses, hardy, 83, 543

tender, 167, 428, 507

Glass, most preferable for hot-
bed lights, 1 1
— — for hot-house roof- lights, 97
Glass-case, for flowering plants,

351
Glycines, 469
Gnaphaliums, 469
Goat's-rue, 353
Golden-rod, 159, 300
Gooseberry-trees, pruning of, 32,
138,222,526,561

planting, 138, 222, 525, 561

propagating by cuttings,

292, 526, 561

INDEX.

607

Gooseberry-trees, propagating by

seed, 526, 561
— — soil most suitable for, 293
Gordonias, 277
Gourds, 369
Grafting, the proper time for,

249
prelinvnary instructions for,

249 to 253

stocks adapted for, 250

when to take off the cions

for, 249

choice of cions or grafts, 25 1

■ cions not to be taken from

sickly trees, 48
— — tools used in, 252

clay, how to prepare, 252

the various methods of, 253

to 258
various kinds of trees and

shrubs. 258, 290, 337, 339
by approach or inarching.

257, 340, 362

— — forest-trees and ornamental
shrubs, 291

hollies, 339

Grapes, the methods of preserv-
ing them fresh, 496, 497

of curing them for raisins,

496

Grape-vines. See Vines

Grass-walks and lawns, general
disposition and care of, 64 to
78

—— methods of making or lay-
ing down, 304

Grass-slopes, 76

Gravel-walks, general disposition
of, 64 to 78

— — method of making, 358

Green-House, to erect or con-
struct, 86
■ work to be done in for
January, 90. February, 166.
March, 305. April, 360. May,
399. June, 426. July, 451.
August, 472. September, 506.
October, 547. November, 571.
December, 588

Green-House plants, shifting,
307, 361,399,452,472

Green-House, sowing seeds of,

167, 308, 363
heading down, 306, 307,

362, 400
propagating by cuttings, &c.

168, 309, 343,427, 45 1

when to bring out, 400

' when to take in, 506, 548
to winter in garden-frames,

549
Gromwell, 206
Grottoes, rural, 65, 72
Groves, 70
Guernsey Lily, 398, 416, 428,

468,571
Guilaiidinia dioica, 301
Gum, in fruit trees, to remedy,

439

H
Ha-ha, what, 73
Hawk-weed, purple and yellow,

159,352
Haws, how to prepare for sow-
ing, 152
Haw-thorn, the various species

of, best adapted for hedges,

155
quicks or plants, how to

raise, 152, 260
■ time of sowing in the

Southern States, 533

hedges. See Hedges

Heading down declining fruit-
trees, 228

budded stocks, 259

Hearl's-ease, 352

Heaths, African, &c. 107, 361,

452
Hedges, live, the necessity and

utility of, 260

how to make, 261, 262

plants suitable for, 155,264,

267

— time of planting and mak-
ing, 260, 547, 570

— observations on, 267

— how to plash, 268, 570

— time of clipping, 263, 432,
503, 547

— particular instructions for
clipping, 503

608

INDEX.

Hedge-hog plant, 299, 352

liedysarum gyrans, or moving
plant, 458

Hedysarums, hardy, 353, 354,
469

Helleborus hyemalis, 501

niger, 501

virides, 501

— — fcetidus, 501

— — lividus, 501

raiiunculinus, 501

Helianthuses, 469

Heliotropium peruvianum, 363,
427

Hemerocallis, 354

Hepatica, 159, 300

Herbs, gathering, 207, 437, 462

Hermannias, 452

Hermitages, 72

Heuchera, 353, 469

Hibiscuses, herbaceous peren-
nial, 353, 354, 425, 469

Hibiscus Rosa sinensis, 557

Hogs, their use in Orchards, 142,
145, 146, 439

Holly, 148,265, 337, 533

to graft curious kinds of,

339

Hollyhock, common, 159, 299

China, 299, 352, 424

Honesty, or Satin-flower, 299

Honey-suckles, 107, 150, 164,
291, 301

P>ench, 159, 299, 300

Honeywort, 299, 352

Horehound, 206, 520

Hornbeam, 75, 264, 301, 533

Horn-plant, 299, 352

Horse-Chesnut, 271

Horse-Radish, 209, 325, 523

Horse-shoe plant, 299, 352

Hot-beds, method of making, 10

for seedling cucumbers,

&:c. 11

for sowing curious tree and

shrub-seeds in, 158

— — for raising Green-House
plants, 167

— — made of leaves, or leaves
and dung, 552, 553

Hot-bed frames and lights, con-
struction of, 10

Hot-bed ridges, to make, 3 1 3
Hot-House or Stove, general

instructions respecting the

construction of, 91 to 104
— — work to be done in for

January, 104. February, 168.

March, 309. April, 364. May,

402. June, 428. July, 453.

August, 474. September, 508,

October, 550. November, 572.

December, 590
Hot-House plants, to propagate,

311,366, 402,429
— — sowing seeds of, 311, 366
■ to bring out, 403

to take in, 508

to winter in Garden-frames,

551
Hot-walls, the construction and

use of, 44
Hyacinths, planting and care of,

79,81, 161, 164,293, 340, 390,

415, 56S
properties of fine double,

341
best method and time of

planting, 539, 565

sowing seed of, 468, 499

— — musk, 543

feathered, 543

— — starry, 543

grape, 543

Hydrangea hortensis, 168, 311,

363, 400, 427, 548, 570, 571
Hypoxis, 469
Hyssop, 206, 410, 462, 520

See Amaryllis,
361, 363,

Jacobea Lily.

scarlet
Jasmines, 164, 291,
413,427

to bud, 444

Ice-plant, 162, 298, 396
Jerusalem Kale, 317, 405

Artichoke, 213, 356, 556

Impregnating the female flowers
of early cucumbers and me-
lons, 182
Inarching, 257, 340, 562, 4C0,.

473
Indigo, 363

INDEX.

609

Insects, which infest the Hot-
House, descriptions of and
methods of destroying, 168 to
176

on fruit-trees, to destroy,

333, 386, 387, 396

Inoculating or Budding, me-
thods of, 442

time of, Ecc. 414, 428, 438,

441, 465, 472,497

Jonquils, 79, 83, 294, 543

Ipomoea Quamoclit, 80, 1 62, 298,
396

scarlet, 352

Iris, Spanish and English bul-
bous, 79, 445, 468, 502, 543

— — dwarf Persian, 164, 445,
468, 502,543

»— — sowing seeds of, 468

flag-leaved, in sorts, 300,

468, 469, 501

— — snake's-head, 543

Judas-tree, 276, 301

Juniper, 148, 164, 265, 291, 337

Justicias, 361, 363

Ixias, bulbous, 167, 428, 507

Chinese, 353, 425

K

Kale, sea, 199, 324, 521, 558

Jerusalem, 317,405

■ Scotch. See Borecole

Kalmias, 276, 337

Kernels of fruit-trees, to sow,
157, 259, 264, 536

Kidney-beans. See Beans

Kidney-bean tree, Carolina, 29 1

Kitchen-Garden, plans or designs
for, 108

— — situation, soil, water, ex-
tent, &c. 109

— — fences suitable for, 1 1 1

preparing and laying out

the ground, 1 1 1

general culture and manur-
ing of, 107, 114, 115

— -— work to be done in for
January, 9. February, 117.
March, 181. April, 312. May,
367. June, 404. July, 429. Au-
gust, 459. September, 476.

October, 511. November, 553,
December, 574

Label-sticks, to make, 56, 59
Labelling the plants, 476
Laburnum, 275
Labyrinths, 76
Lachenalius, 167, 507
Lagerstrcemia indica, 363, 548,

549, 571
Lantanas, 457
Lapeyrousias, 167, 507
Larch-ti-ee, 273
Large trees, how to remove, 233,

570
Larkspur, annual, 159, 352

. Bee, 299, 300

Lavatera, 159,299, 352
Lavendex', common, 206, 462,

520
Lavendulas, tender, 452
Laurel, Portugal, 60, 62, 291,

355, 363, 548
English or Levant, 60,62,291,

355, 363,548, 570, 571
Laurustinus, or Viburnum Ti-

nus, 355, 361, 363, 400, 548,

571
Lawns. See Grass-Lawns
Layers, the several methods of

making, 287
when to make, take off",

plant, &c. 61, 151, 337, 389,

498, 532, 546
Leatherwood, 301
Leaves, preparation of, to make

hot-beds, &c. 552
Leeks, to sow, 197, 322

to transplant, 407, 437

Lemon-trees, to shift, 307, 361,

452,472
ordinary care of, 166, 506,

361, 363, 400,450, 548
— — to prune or head down,

306, 362

to inoculate, 428, 472

to inarch, 400

Lettuces, 18, 132, 133, 188, 319,

374, 407,436, 461, 478, 511,

553,575

H

610

INDEX.

Liatrises,353, 469

Lilac, common purple and white,

150,30)

Persian, 150, 301

Lilies, sowing seeds of, 468
Lilium superbum, 469, 502, 543

canadense, 469, 502, 543

Catesbaei, 543

chalcedonicum, 468, 502,

543

pomponium, 543

.. japonicum, 543

Martagon, 543

Lily, white, 468, 502, 543

red, 468, 502

of the Valley, 300

Lime or Linden-tree, 272, 288,

301, 533
Lime-tree, fruit-bearing, 472, 548
Limodorum tuberosum, 80, 469,

543
Liquorice-root, its general cul-
ture, 209, 326
Lobelias, 80, 159, 300, 353, 469
Locust-tree, common, 271
honey, or three-horned

Acacia, 264, 301
London-pride, 159, 300, 501
Loveage, 206, 410, 520
Love-apple. See Tomatoes
Love-lies-bleeding, 352
Lungwort, Virginian, 501
Lupins, 352
Lyciums, 363
Lychnadea. See Phlox
Lychnis, dwarf, 159, 299, 352
scarlet, 159, 299, 300, 469,

501
double scarlet, 84, 397, 424,

501
Lysimachias, 469

M

Madder, Dyer's, its general cul-
ture, 329

Magnolias, methods of propagat-
ing, 276

planting, 30 1

Magnolia grandiflora, 59, 572

Mallow, marsh, 206, 520

oriental, 159, 352

Peruvian, 352

Mallow, curled, 299, 352, 35S
Mangel Wurtzel, 195
Manna, officinal, to procure, 286
Maples, of various kinds, 270,

288, 301, 533, 535
Marigold, pot, 207, 382

Cape, 352

■ French, 424

African, 424

Marjoram, pot, 206, 325, 382,

410,520

sweet, or knotted, 207, 325,

382

Martagons, 445, 468, 502

what lilies are properly

called, 543

Martynia, annua or probosidea,
352

Marvel of Peru, 352

Massonias, 1 67, 507

Mastich, 462

Medicated tar, how to prepare,
46

application and use of, 46,

47, 142, 143

Medlars, 234, 251

snowy, 275, 301

Melanthiums, Cape, 167, 507

—— American, 469

Melasphaerulas, 167, 507

Melias, 363

Melianthuses, 363

Melons, preparations for raising
in hot-beds, 11, 1 18

true Cantaleupe kinds de-
scribed, 12

age and preparation of

seed, 12

sowing the seed and gene-
ral care of, 14, 118, 122, 186,
313, 367

stopping or topping the

plants, 121

impregnating the female

flowers of, 182
— raising in hot-bed ridges,

313
— — sowing and care of in the

open ground, 228, 368, 404,

429, 462

sowing for Mangoes, 430

water, 328, 369, 404

INDEX.

611

Mesembryanthemunis, 162, 166,
179, 361, 363, 396, 402, 54,8

Mezereon, 157, 551

Mignonette, 163, 180, 299, 352

Mimosas, 363. See also. Sensi-
tive plant

Mint, spear, forcing, 19, 519

in the open ground, 206,

520

pepper, 206, 520

cat or Nep, 206, 520

Monardas, 80, 353, 354, 469

Monk's-hood, 159, 300, 425

Moreas, 167, 428, 507

Moss, cleansing trees from, 46,
141,578,579

Moving-plant, 458

Mulberry trees, propagation of,
&c. 45, 265, 280, 288, 291,
527

paper, the method of ma-
nufacturing paper from the
bark of, 284

Mushrooms, care of, 22, 125,
558, 576

descriptions of the culti-
vated kind, 482

• . ■ preparations for making
new beds, 182

to collect the spawn of, 483

— — — making and spawning the
beds, 515

Myrtles, 91, 166, 168, 306, 361,
362, 363, 400, 427, 548

— — to prune or head down,
306, 362

N
Napaea, 354, 469
Narcissus, common kinds, 164,

544

polyanthus, 79, 294, 542

— — autumnal, 468

sowing seed of, 468

Nasturtium, or Indian Cress,

326, 381
Nectarine-trees, pruning, 29,

136,214

budding, 441, 465, 497

Nettle-tree, 269,301
Nettle, Roman, 352
New-Jersey Tea, 301

Newly grafted trees, care of, 338,
390, 414, 438, 466

budded trees, care of, 466,

497

Nigella, 159, 299, 352

Nolana prostrata, 352

Nursery, the importance and ad-
vantage of, 49

extent, soil and situation,

50

fencing, laying out and pre-
paring the ground, 5 1

method of arranging the

plants, 53

general care and culture of,

55

vv^ork to be done in for Ja-
nuary, 58. February, 150.
March, 249. April, 337. May,
388. June, 412. July, 441.
August, 465. September, 497.
October, 532. November, 564.
December, 580

O

Oak-leaves, used for making hot-
beds, 552

Oaks, propagation of, 271, 301,
533

evergreen, 337

Obelisks, rural, 71, 76

Oenotheras, 357

Oiled-paper frames, 128

Okra, 326,381,409

Olea, or Olive, 363

Oleander, 361,363

Onions, sowing seed of, 195, 322

— — the several varieties of, 196

planting and care of, 197,

323, 379, 408

tree, 197

welsh, 482, 559

planting large roots of, for

producing seed, 522

Ononis natrix, 452

Ophryses, 80, 469

Orach, garden, 329

Orange-trees, general care and
culture of, 166, 306, 308, 363,
400, 450, 548

pruning of, 306, 362

to shift, 307, 361, 452, 472

612

INDEX.

Orange-trees, to inoculate, 428,

472
— « — to inarch, 400
Orchards, the utility of, 45
extent, aspect, situation and

soil, 229
. preparation of the ground,

230
— — manure suitable for, 38, 142
.. ■ choice of young trees, 231
times of planting, 230, 335,

525, 530, 562
method of planting, 231,

562
observations on neglecting,

45, 141
■ when to prune and dress,

45, 141, 224, 524, 530, 562,

579
particular methods of prun-
ing, 45, 46, 47

when to prune or head down

unhealthy trees, 47, 224

how to prune or head down

Uphealthy or old trees, 226,
228

— to prevent the ravages of
insects, 144

— how and when to remove
large trees, 233, 570

to refresh the bark of fruit-
trees, 530

to bring luxuriant and un-
fruitful trees into a bearing
state, 143

— root-pruning of use to fruit-
trees, 142

to supply the places of de-

cayed trees, 233
Orchises, 80, 469, 543
Ornamental planting, and rural

designs, 62 to 79
Ornithogalums, tender, 428

hardy, 83, 294, 445, 543

Oxalis versicolor, 167, 507
violacca, 469

Paeonia, or Peony, 354, 468, 501,

543
Palma Chrlsti, 352
Pancratium raaritimum, 543

Papaw-tree, 270, 301
Paper-MuIberry-tree, 284
Paper, method of making it from

the bark of the Paper-Mulber-

ry-tree, 284
Paper-frames, method of making,

128
Parsley, common, 135, 199, 324,

382
Hamburg or large rooted,

199, 324,380, 409
Parsnep, 133, 190,208,321,378,

408, 536
Parterre, 73

Passion-flower, 291,363, 413
Patience Dock, 5 59
Pavilions, rural, 74
Peach-trees, pruning and training

of, 29, 136,214
budding or inoculating, 441,

465, 497

double flowering, 164, 301

Pear-trees, pruning and training

of, 25, 214, 216, 333, 524,562,

577

grafting, 249, 250

budding, 441, 465, 497

gathering and preserving

the fruit of, 528
sowing the kernels of, for

Slocks, 157, 259, 536
Pea-sticks, to provide and dress, 9
Peas, garden, raising in hot-beds,

134
raising in the open ground,

134, 186J 187, 318, 373, 406,

437, 460
sticking, best method of,

187

Tangier, 159, 299, 352

winged, 299, 352

Pelargoniums. See Geraniums
Penny-royal, 206,520
Penstemons, 469
Peppers, red. See Red Peppers
Perennial and biennial flowers,

sowing seeds of, 299, 353, 397
planting or transplanting,

300, 354, 398, 450, 468, 544,

567
Periploca grseca, 291
Persicaria, 299, 352

INDEX.

613

Persimmon, 270, 353, 354, 469

Phillyrea, 337

Phlomises, 452

Phloxes, 159, 353, 354, 424,

469,501
Pine-Apples, general care and
culture of, 104, 176, 309, 364,
402, 429, 453, 474, 509, 550,
573, 590

various sorts of, 543

compost for, 454

—— propagation of, by crowns
and suckers, 454, 455

propagation of, by seed, 475

Pines and Firs, how to distin-
guish between, 273
— — the various kinds of, 273, 274

propagation of by seeds,

273, 274,275, 337
— — observations on transplant-
ing seedlings of in June, 413
time of trimming or prun-
ing, 498
Pinks, general care of, &c. See
the Flovver-Garden for the
several months
— — properties of fine double,
418

method of piping, 422

best time for and manner

of planting, 296, 537

China, 299, 352, 424

Plane-tree, 269, 291, 301
Planting, fruit-trees, of various
kinds, 221, 231, 333, 335, 525,
530, 560, 562

Fig-trees, 217

stocks to bud and graft on,

259, 534, 564

Gooseberries and Currants,

222, 525, 561

Raspberries, 222, 335, 526,

561

all kinds of hardy deciduous

trees and shrubs, 291, 301,
337, 355, 535, 546, 564, 569
— — hardy evergreen trees and
shrubs, 302, 337, 355, 498,
504,535

large grown trees, 233, 570

seedlings, of hardy deci-
duous trees and shrubs, 29 1

Planting, seedlings, of hardy

evergreens, 337
general observations on,

289
Pleasure-grounds, the laying out

,of, 62 to 80
Plum-trees, pruning and training

of, 27, 214, 216

grafting, 250

budding, 441, 465

Plumeria rubra, 457
Podalyrias, 80, 353, 354, 469
Poles, for Grape-vines, 48
■ for Lima Beans, 10

Polyanthus, 80, 159, 297, 299,

349, 395, 450, 467, 469, 536,

567, 582, 585

description of a fine, 349

to propagate by seed, 160,

295, 585
to propagate by slips, 349,

395, 450, 467
Polyanthus-Narcissus, 79, 294,

542
Polygala sanguinea, 352

bracteolata, 452

senega, 469

Pomegranate, 400, 549,571
Poplars, 265, 291, 301
Poppy, 159,299
Porticoes, of hedge work, 74
Pot, sweet, and physical herbs,

206, 325, 382,410
Potatoes, common, 208, 326

sweet, 369, 405

Poultry, their use in Orchards,

142,145
Primroses, 159, 469

' double, 297, 536, 567, 582

Primrose-tree, 159, 299, 300
Prince's-feather, 352
Privet, common, 266, 291

evergreen, 337

Proteas, 363, 452

Protecting roots of new planted

trees and shrubs, 34, 577, 580,

588
seedlings and tender plants,

564
Pruning espalier and wall, apple

and pear trees, 25, 136, 214,

333,524,562, 577

614

INDEX.

Pruning plum and cherry-trees,

27, 136, 214, 524, 562
— — peach, nectarine and apricot

trees, 29, 136,214
ejooseberry and currant

trees, 32, 138, 222,526

raspberries, 139, 222, 527

lig-trees, 2 1 6

Orchard or standard trees,

45, 46, 47, 141, 224, 530, 562
young fruit-trees under

training, 55, 214, 216
fruit-trees intended to be

forced, the ensuing season,

484

— summer pruning and dress-
ing, 438

Nursery young trees, 55,

151
- — hardy flowering shrubs, 1 5 1,

165,546, 570

— young forest-trees, 56, 151
and restoring old or declin-

ing fruit and other trees, 226,

228
Pumpkins, 369, 404
Pyracantha, 266, 337
Pyramids, rural, 76

Q

Queen's Gilliflower, 397
Quicks, thorn, for hedges, 152,

261
other sorts of, for the same

purpose, 264 to 267
Quince-tree, 45,. 157, 214

R

Racer or turf-cutter, 304
Radishes, 22, 131, 189, 320, 376,

377, 408, 436, 459, 478
Ragged-robin, double, 300, 469
Raisins, methods of curing, 496
Ranunculus, Persian, general

care of, &c. 79, 81, 161, 164,

294, 344, 392, 502, 565
properties of a fine double,

393

taking up the roots of, 415

best method of planting,

415

Ranunculus, preserving from

frost, 566
—— sowing seed of, 582

aconitifolius, double, 354

Rape, for salad. See small salad-

ing
Raspberries, planting, 222, 335,

526,561

pruning, 139, 222, 527

protecting tender kinds of,

from frost, 34, 561
Recesses, rural, 65
Red peppers, 208, 327, 380, 410,

437
Rhexias, 80, 354, 428, 469
Rhododendrons, 276, 337
Rhubarb, the Turkey or officinal,

its general culture, 211, 325,

521, 558
English or common, 213,

325, 521, 558
Rocambole, 198, 323, 522, 554
Rock and shell work, 72, 74
Robinias, 150,271
Rocket, garden, double, 107, 159,

299, 300, 397, 424, 501

particularly noticed, 397

night smelling, 353

Root-houses, rural, 72
Root-pruning, of trees, 142
Roses, forcing into early bloom,

164, 180
— — — to pot for forcing, 545
propagating by suckers,

150

— propagating by budding,

414, 444

— propagating by layers, 287,
413,532

— planting, 301, 302, 35 6, 546

— used for hedges, 266

— China, 400, 427, 570, 571
Otaheite,400, 427, 570,571

Rose-campion, 84, 159, 299, 3*0,

425, 469, 501
Rosemary, 206
Rue, 206, 462
Rudbeckias, 353, 469
Rural seats, 65, 72
Rustic devices, 72
Russia Turnep. See Ruta Baga

INDEX.

615.

Ruta Baga, 435

Saffron, bastard, 352
officinal or true. See Cro-
cus, autumnal
Sage, common, 206, 462, 520
Salading, small, 19, 126, 191,320,
375, 407, 431, 460, 479,521,
554,575
Salsafy, 198, 323, 380, 409

to preserve for winter use,

556
Salvias, tender, 363, 452
Saponaria, 354
Sarracenias, 469
Sassafras, 301

Satin-flower, or Honesty, 299
Savin, 291

Savory, winter, 206, 325, 382,
410, 462, 520

summer, 207, 325, 382, 410

Saxatile plants, 72

Saxifragas, sowing seed of, 353

collecting, 469

Saxifrage, double white, 1 59, 300,
469

strawberry, 470

pyramidal, 470

Scabious, sweet, 299, 300, 425
Scilla maritima, 543

peruviana, 543

/■ Scorzonera, 198, 323, 380, 409

preserving in winter, 556

Scotch Kale. See Borecole
Scurvy-grass, officinal, 206, 523
Sea-Kale, 199, 324, 521, 558
Sedums, 91, 166, 402, 548
Seedling trees and shrubs, sum-
mer care of, 338, 413

winter care of, 59, 564

Sensitive plant, 162, 298, 396,

446
— — a particular account of,

446
Shaddocks, 428, 451, 472, 548
8hady walks, 70
Shallots, 198, 323, 522, 554
Shell-work, 72

Shifting plants out of smalleti
into larger pots or tubs, best
method of, 306, 361

Silenes, tender, 363
Silk-worms, 280 '
Silphiums, 353,354,469
Sisyrinchiums, for edgings, &c.

79, 354,469
Skirrets, 199, 324, 409, 521,

558
to preserve for winter use,

556
Smallage, 207
Snail-plant, 299, 352
Snapdragon, 299, 300, 352
Sneezewort, double, 353
Snowdrops, 79, 83,394,41 6, 468,

502, 543
Snowdrop-tree, 276, 301
Soapwort, double, 353, 425
Solanums, hardy shrubby, 291

tender, 363

Solidagoes, 80, 353, 469

Sorrel, broad-leaved garden, 328,

381, 520
round-leaved or French,

328, 381,520
Sour-gum or Tupelo-tree, 272,

291
Southern States, seasons and cul-
ture in, particularly noticed,

23, 24, 44, 49, 60, 136, 149,

158, 166, 214, 463, 483, 524,

530, 531, 533, 560, 563, 577,

578, 579, 580,581
Southernwood, 206, 520
Sowing stones and kernels of

fruit. See Fruit
haws, for raising thorii-

quicks, 152,260, 533
Spartiums, tender, 363
Spiderwort, Virginian, 501
Spigelia marilandica, 469
Spinach, 132, 189, 320, 377, 436

winter, 459, 477, 5 1 1, 553

Spindle-tree, 148

Spiraeas, hardy herbaceous, 353

Spiraea trifoliata, 469

Filipendula, 501

Squash, 328, 369

St. Peter's-wort, 30 1

Stage for auriculas, carnations,

&Ci 345
Staking new planted trees, best

method of, 233

616

INDE}^.

Standard, half-standard, and

dwarf-standard trees, to train,

56
Star of Bethlehem, 83, 294, 445,

543
Statues, 65, 72
Stock, annual or Mediterranean,

352
Stock-gilliflowers, 84, 107, 163,

299,^397, 425, 544, 568, 587
Stocks, the proper kinds to bud

and graft on, 250
Stools, nursery, of trees and

shrubs, 52, 287, 288
Stopping, or topping young cu-
cumber and melon plants, 121
Stoves or Hot-houses, methods

of erecting, 91 to 104
Strawberries, forcing, 34, 106,

139, 180, 311,591 '
— — spring dressing of, 223
— choice of plants, 223, 485

the various kinds of, 484

times and method of plant-
ing, 223, 486, 528
making nursery plantations

of, 411

to pot for forcing, 486

autumn dressing of, 528

. other necessary care of,

335, 386
Strawberry-spinach, 352
Strawberry-tree. See Arbutus

Unedo
Suckers, to propagate trees and

shrubs by, 150, 337, 546
Sumack, to propagate various

kinds of, 278

— tanner's, 279

Sun, its effects on frozen plants,

161
Sunflower, annual, 159, 236, 299,

352

perennial, 159, 300

Sweet-briar, 266
Sweet-gum, 260, 301
Sweet-scented Peas, 159,299
Sweet-scented shrub. See CaW-

canthus floridus
Sweet-sultan, 352
Sweet-william, 84, 107, 159, 299,

424, 469, 501

Sycamore, 270
Syringas, 150

Table of the progress of vegeta-
tion in the grape-vine, Sec. 488

Tacamahaca, 291

Tamarisk, 29 I

Tan, covering bulbs with, 81

procuring fresh, for mak-
ing hot pits or beds, 5 10

Tansey, 19, 206, 520

Tarragon, 19, 206, 519

Teasel, fuller's, 331

Temples, rural and ornamental,
65, 72

Ten-week stock, 163, 130, 299,
352

Terraces, 66, 76

Teucriums, 363

Thermometer, its use in garden-
ing, Sec. 176

Thickets, in rural and ornamen-
tal planting, 7 1

Thorn-quicks. See Quicks

Thorn, double flowering, 164,
301

Thrift, 79, 159, 300, 501

Thyme, 206, 382, 410, 462, 520

Tiger-flower, 473

Tomatoes, 208, 327, 380, 409,
437

Trellises, for fruit-trees, to erect, ^
24,25

Trenching and manuring, 9, 61,
114, 467,523, 560, 565

Tricolors. See Amarahthus tri-
color

Trilliums, 353, 469

Tritonias, 1 67, 507

Trumpet-flower, 291,413

Tuberoses, forcing, 357

— — - open -ground culture of,
357, 396

taking up the roots, &c. 569

Tulip-tree, (called Poplar) 269,
301

Tulips, common care of, &c. 71,
81, 82, 161, 164, 294, 342,565,
582,587

■ method of supporting the
flowers, 342

INDEX.

%17

Tulips, description and proper-
ties of the best, 343
— the various classes of, 343

to take up and preserve the

roots, 392

when to take them up, 415

to propagate by seed, 468,

499

breeders, what, 344

• how and when to plant the

■valuable sorts, 537
to protect them in winter,

566
Turfing-iron, 304
Tupelo-tree, 272,291
Turneps, garden culture of, 198,

208, 323, 379, 409, 460,479
—— general field culture of,

432
— — to preserve in winter, 556

Swedish, 435

Turnep-cabbage, 317, 372, 405
Turnep-rooted cabbage, 317, 372

Valerian, Greek, 159, 299, 300,
425, 501

red garden, 353

creeping Greek, 501

Vallisneria americana, 505

Venus's fly-trap, 448

looking-glass, 159, 299,

352

navel-wort, 159, 299, 352

Veratrums, 469

Verbascums, 353

Veronicas, 353, 469

Viburnum prunifolium, 267

Vinca rosea, 396, 457

Vines, grape, their history, 234

descriptions and classifica-
tion of the various kinds of,
237

— — American species of, 242

— — time and methods of prun-
ing, 147, 563

time of planting, 244, ^0,

563

■ methods of planting and
propagating, 244 to 249

■ to protect the fruit from

birdS) insects, Sec. 488

4 I

Vines, winter dressing of, 563

to make wine of the fruit,

489 to 496

to preserve the fruit of, for

winter use, 496

to cure the fruit for Raisins,

496
Vineries, for forcing grapes, 44
Vineyards, to manure, 48, 146
— — to make poles for the vines,
48

soil and situation fit for, 243

— — preparation of the soil, 244
■ preparations for, and me-

thods of planting, 244, 249

— time of planting, 244, 530,
563

— — — time and methods of prun-
ing, 147, 563

—— work to be done in for
January, 48. February, 146.
March, 234. April, 336. May,
487. June, 412. July, 439.
August, 465. September, 487.
October, 530. November, 563.
December, 580

Violets, 159, 300, 469.

Virgin's-bower, 291, 413

W

Walchendorfias, 167,507
W^alks, shady, 70

grass, to make, 304, 360

gravel, to make, 358

Wall.flowers, double, 84, 163,

397,544, 568, 587

sowing seed of, 299

transplanting seedling, 425

Wall-trees, the general meaning

of, 112
to train when young, 56,

214,216
^— — to prune. See pruning

to summer prune, 438

Walnut-tree, the English, 45,

234,271, 301, 533
Wasps to destroy, 438, 488
Water-falls, 68
Water-pieces, or sheets, 68
Watsonias, 167, 428, 507
Weld, or DyerVweed, 332
Wilderness, 65

6||B

INDEX.

Wormwood, 206

Willow, weeping or drooping, 68

hedges, 266

— — various kinds of, to propa-
gate, 291,531

Wine, the method of making
white, 489 -

making red, 491

—— general remarks on the
making of, 493

how to clarify, 495

Winter-cress, 463, 479, 553

Witch-hazel, 301

Worms in fruit-trees, to destroy, Zinnia, 352
142,228

X

Xeranthemum, hardy annual,

352
— — tender sorts of, 363, 452

Yew-tree, 148, 266, 291,
Yuccas, tender, 363

337

THE END,

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