DATE DUE

1

\

UNIVERSITY OF MASSACHUSETTS
LIBRARY

S8
339

C55

CARD

r

W

THE

GRAPE GROWER'S GUIDE-

INTKNDEa) ESPKCIALLT FOR IHB

^nurirait CUmatf

BEINa A. PRACTICAL TREATISE ON THE CULTIVATION OF THE GRAPE-VDIB

IN KAOH DEPARTMENT OF HOT HOUSE, COLD GRAPERY, RETARDINQ

HOUSE, AND OUT DOOR CULTURE. WITH PLANS FOR THE

CONSTRUCTION OF THE REQUISITE BUILDINGa,

AND GIVING THE BEST METHODS OF

HEATING THE SAMlfi.

©frerg ^ep^artm^wt hing fullg lllustrutcb.

BY WILLIAM CHORLTOJS-,

AUTHOR OF "tHB COLD GRArBRY," BTC.

NEW-YORK:
ORANGE JUDD & COMPANY

245 BROADWAY.

Q

iLntered, accoruing to Act of Coctrress, in the year 1854. &y

C. M. SAXTON, & CO.,

In the Clert's Office of the District Court of the United States for the Southern

District of New York.

CONTENTS

ClIAn'ER I.

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS.

Hardinej^s of natives and exotics

Effects of mildew and excessive changes .

Coi*t of houses ....

Skill easily acquired

Botanists' distinctions .

Circumstances favorable to development .

Evils of dogma and prejudice .

Acclimatizing ....

Gratification and advantage of the Grapery

CHAPTER II.

HOnSES AND CONVENIENCES.

Double pitcli, curve, and straight line
Single pitv.a ....
Ridge and furrow ....
Cold Grapery :

Most suitable houses for

Position for double pitch •

— single pitch . .

Inclination of roof . .

Explanation of Frontispiece .

Ground Plan to Frontispiece .
• Calculations of profits

House not to be used for other purposes

Foundations, ventilators, &C.

Internal fixings, &c. . . »

Evil of CO d water .

Situation . . . •

Eav'y ^!l<^pery :

Suitable designs for and remarks on

Aspect .....

FAGB

11

,

,

. 11

12

,

•

. 12

13

,

,

. 14

15

,

,

16

16

. 18

-»«

18

18

. 19

19

. 30

21

. 22

24

. 26

27

. 27

28

. 29

29

• 1

. 30

^4413

O

IV

CONTENTS.

DifiSculties with outside temperature •

Description and plan of house . . ,

Plan of ventilator . . ,

Advantage of inside planting . , ,

Plan of house heated by flue . .

Grapery for pot culture :

Plan of house for ... ,

Other houses suitable . • •

Retarding House :
Objects of . • • . .

Position and aspect ....
Plan of double detatched house
Mr. Webster's method of ventilation

CHAPTER in.

AKTIFICIAL HEAT AND APPAKATUS.

Reasons why it is required

Steam not suitable, and why .

Hot water the best

Difference of material for pipes, &c.

Plan of boiler

Brick flues, general remarks on

Drying and parching effects of flues

Size and capacity of flue and furnace

Polmaise heating, remarks on

Plan of flue and polmaise combined

CHAPTER IV.

BORDERS, OR PBEPABED BEDS.

knportance of right preparation .

Bad effects of unsuitable materials

Nitrosrenized manure not permanent

Good properties of bones and lime

Evil of over-deep borders

The strongest growth not the best

Advantages of well drained borders

How to make the border?

Good drainage retains the moisture

Advantage? of making only a part at first

Too much stimulating matter not good .

TAGn

30
31
32
33

34

35
36

86
37
38

,

. 40

41

,

. 41

42

,

. 43

44

,

. 15

46

,

. 47

18

•

49

,

. 50

,

52

,

. 52

,

52

,

. 53

•

53

,

. 54

,

55

. 66

COJS TENTS.

Width of borders .....

How to retain natural longevity . . .

Useless expenditure .....

CHAPTER V.

PLANTING AND MANAGEMENT TUK FIRST TEAR.

Choosing of vines for planting . . . .

When to plant ......

How to plant ......

Careful watering required ....

Planting vines previously started into growth

Management through the summer .

Attention to the roots .....

Necessity of a warm temperature . . •

Attention to the tops . . . . .

Increase of air as ripening progresses .

How to prune, &c. . . . . .

Wash to kill insects .....

Covering for winter . . . . •

Top-dressing of compost ....

PAGH

56
57
58

59
59
60
61
61
62
62
63
64

64
65
65
66

CHAPTER VI.

MANAGEMENT FOR THE SECOND YEAR, ANT) PERMANENT TREATMENT
FOR THE COLD GRAPERY.

Retarding of the buds

How to manage the advancing growth

Reducing of bunches

Regulation of temperature . .

Fertilizing the flowers

Application of water after blossoming

Further reduction of fruit

Thinning out the superfluous berries .

Inside watering through the summer

Outside watering through the summer

Application of liquid m.+nure

A drier atmosphere and more air required later in the season

Hon.-e to be closed on frosty uighis

Fall mana,2:emerit

Vv'cight of fruit to be allowed

,

. 67

* •

67

^ ,

. 68

, ,

68

, ,

. 69

, ,

69

, ,

. 70

, ,

71

,

. 72

, .

72

.

. 73

in the season

73

, ,

74

.

. 74

' •

76

VI CONTENTS.

CHAPTER VII.

THE EaKLY grapery, OR FORCING HOUSE.

PAGR

Practical skill required, and remarks . . . .77

YcLvrly forcing not injurious ..... 79

Covering for outside borders . , . . .80

Injury from the roots being in a cold bed ... 80

Time to prune, and commencing to force . . .83

Evils of cold drafts of air . . . . , 84

General treatment . . . . , ,85

Watering outside borders, and free ventilation . ,86

Second early crop . . . . • .87

Journal of temperature and remarks" , , . 88

CHAPTER VIIT.

POT CULTURE.

Advantages, care required, &c. . . , . 91

Comparative difference in crop . . , . ,92

How to economise space ..... 93

Huitable vines, compost, and potting , , , .93

General treat] nent . . . , , . 95

Management for second fruiting , . . . . 9(i

Application of liquid manure ... 97

CHAPTER IX.

RETARDING HOUSE.

Objects of the Retarding House . • . • 98

General remarks, and treatment . ... 98

Caution required in pruning ..... 101

How long in the year grapes may be had . • . 102

CHAPTER X.

LIST OP VARIETIES.

Remarks on the confusion of kinds .... 104

Exotics, descriptive list . . . , ,105

Cold Grapery, the best kinds for . . . . ,113

Forcing House . . . , , ,112

Retarding House . , , , • .113

CONTENTS.

Vll

Pot culture .....

Remarks on Muscats

Native Grapes, varieties of . . ,

CHAPTER XL

PRUNING AND TRAINING

General remarks ....

Double spur method ....

Single close spur method

Long rod '* ...

Renewal ** . , ,

Extension " ...

To produce temporary full crop

Longevity of the gr.ipe vine .

Weight of fruit that a vine will produce

Advantages of extension . . ,

Summer pruning ....

Evils of shortening in too close

Curtailing the plant's energy shortens life

CHAPTER XIL

PROPAGATION AND TUE RAISING OF NEW KINl

PrcJJ)agation by eyes

cuttings .

■ coiling . ,

— layers

layers suspended

grafting .

inarching

— seed

The raising of new kinds

Improvement that may be made . .

National profits

Hybridizing, or cross-breeding

CHAPTER Xra.

DISEASES.

Mildew •

Different kinds, and first indication
Oidium, its appearance . .

PAGi

113
114
115

116
117
119
120
121
122
124
125
125
126
126
128
129

131
132
133
134
134
135
137
138
138
139
140
141

143

fill

CONTENTS.

Time of appearance
Sulphur a remedy , . •

Botrytis described . • •

How fungoids vegetate . •

Kinds not injurious . • •

"Shrivel and shank :
General remarks . . •

Various causes — how produced •
How to prevent .

Dry rot in the roots :

Indications . . . ■

Other kinds of rot, and how to prevent

Kot in the fruit :

The cause, and hiow to remedy

^pot:

The probable, cause

Remarks on watering overhead

14J
145
145
146

148

. 148

149

, 150

. 151
151

153

154
. 154

CHAPTEE XIV.

INSKCTS AND HOW TO DESTROY THEM,

Remarks and different kinds .

Ked spider, scaly and mealy bugs

Green and black fly, thrips, fretters, rose bug

Beetles, moths .....

156
157
158
159

CHAPTER XV.

.

THE YINEYARD AXD

OUT-DOOR CULTURE.

General remarks

.

161

Bad effects of damp air and undrained land

. 162

Carbonate of lime, its good effects

l<i3

Choice of situation

.

. 164

Preparing the land

.

165

Artion ot cold air

.

. 166

Formation of terraces

.

167

Trellises and supports

.

. 168

Planting and choosing plants

.

169

After-treatment .

•

. 170

Training over arbors, &c.

•

171

PREFACE.

Owing to the favorable reception of mj monograph,
the Cold Grapery, by those who are interested in grape
culture, and the commendations of intelligent practical
cultivators of this luscious fruit, I have determined to
comply with the request of friends, by giving a more
comprehensive edition, with the hope that my humble
efforts may be of ser-^j^ce to the public.

What is recorded is simply an explanation of my own
experience and observation, and an expression of my
deliberately formed opinions. The method here given
has been successful hitherto, and is founded upon the
practice of the last quarter century. I have endeavored,
as much as possible, to give a common-sense view of the
whole routine, to embody every idea required in each
department, and labored to make the detail concise, yet
plain.

Such as it is, I submit it to a discerning and intelligent
public, and shall be amply repaid for my trouble, if it
shall hereafter be the means of extending a true know
ledge, of the subject on which it treats.

William Chorlton

Ntus Brighton, Stolen Island.

1*

PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION.

Since the first edition of this book was submitted to the
public, I have examined very carefully the practice it advo-
cates and the advice given in connection with my every-day
experience, and find nothing, so far, to retract as detail, or
add as general principles, but feel further confidence that it
is a sure guide to the uninitiated, for whose benefit it was
chiefly penned. Still further, I am emboldened to believe
that it has done some good, by the many commendations
received from persons who have succeeded satisfactorily by
explicitly following the directions it contains ; and am pleased
to know that it has been the means of simplifying the sub-
ject and extending the cultivation of %e grape-vine.

Twenty years ago very little attention was paid to the
subject, further than the planting of a grape-vine in a door-
yard, or the cultivating on a small scale in the vineyard.
The sorts, too, that were worth growing at all were few,
and excepting the exertions of a small number of far-seeing
men, the whole matter was little cared for. Notwithstand-
ing which, many attempts had been made during the half
century previous to this time with a laudable perseverance,
but there was nothing really substantial to encourage the
bounding enterprise of our national character.

The great drawback to our progress.was the determina-
tion to make the European sorts accommodate themselves
to the climate of our eastern States (which they will never
do), and the deficiency of natives of good quality. If our
German and French vigneres had, at first, set about discover-
ing the oest wildings and raising seedlings from them, instead
of holding on, so tenaciously, to Fatherland, and our own
folk following in their wake, we should have been further
ahead than we are at present. However, we are on the
right tack now, and in a fair way to realize what has been

PBEFACE. 11

previously asserted in this treatise, viz.: "ultimately attain-
ing to the same perfection which the exotics possess, with the
additional property of a hardy constitution that will prosper
in the open air." When this assertion was made we had
already approximated the fulfillment, although unknown to
the public. The Rebecca and Delaware, both of which are
equal to a Frontignan in flavor, and are perfectly hardy,
were then discovered though as yet unpublished. It is not
known how the^ Delaware originated, and as it bears some
resemblance, in the leaf, to an exotic, some persons think it
a European variety. I do not see any thing in it to justify
such a conclusion. Others again, at the present time, con-
sider the Rebecca as somewhat tender, but if the statements
of the originator, Mr. Peat, of Hudson county, be true, such
is not the ease; and I certainly can vouch for his veracity
in my own practice, for young plants stood, with me, en-
tirely unprotected last winter, (which, though mild, was a
trying one for plants,) and uninjured, even to a bud, with
the thermometer down two nights, respectively, to fifteen
and ten degrees below zero. Delaware proved equally
hardy with the same exposure, and I am told by a friend
who has known this variety many years, that it has been un-
injured when Isabella upon the same trellis was killed to the
ground.

There is a great difference naturally in the geographical
range of plants throughout the world, some being confined
within very small limits, while others are found widely and
profusely disseminated in the form of one or perhaps more
species in different hemispheres. Now, the grape-vine is of
this latter capacity, though possessing different constitutional
requirements collectively. Hence arises In part the cause
of failure sometimes complained of. And while we admit
that a more southern latitude has the general advantage, it
by no means follows that we need despair of the North, up
to certain limits, being suitable for the ripening of this fruit.
It may be necessary, however, for the time being, to submit
to some inferiority, but even in this case there is opportunity
for improvement, and we may accept the Qoncord and Hart-'
ford Prolific as two great acquisitions on account of their
extreme hardiness, and early maturity of fruit. It is proba-

Xll PEKPACE,

ble that, in addition to these, the Delaware will prove equal
in all respects for the North, and if so we have one of the
very best sorts in addition. By cross-breeding, with these
as a basis, the grape-vine may become fine in quality, and as
hardy and sure as a current-bush. There are many other
varieties now before the public, some of which will, no
doubt, prove to be all that is claimed for them ; but let us be
careful of our pockets and not accept everything that ap-
pears as advertisements. Consider the respectability of the
parties and their reputation for veracity, and if they are
not publicly known, let the advertiser submit his fruit and
plants to some one who has a character to lose, and the
public may be saved much disappointment, vexation and
expense. Notwithstanding we are almost prohibited from
succeeding with the European grapes out of doors in our
Eastern climate, that ot California, Texas and adjoining re-
gions is remarkably suitable. California, in particular,
may be considered the Italy of America ; and the progeny
of those grape-vines which the Spaniards took there have
become indigenous to the country. Our distant fellow-
citizens are now aware of the advantages offered, and
American enterprise is being carried out to the fullest ex-
tent in the cultivation of the grape, for they number their
sorts by the hundred and increase the quantity by millions
a year ; the very best wines are there made by thousands
of gallons, exclusive of the distilling a large quantity of
brandy, and furnishing a plentiful supply of fresh fruit for
immediate consumption. In addition to this we have, in the
eastern States, the grape-house becoming a necessary ap-
pendage to every garden of any pretension; the increase of
vineyards and making of wines to an almost equal extent
with our Pacific co-workers ; a better general knowledge of
management, and, still further, an eager search for new
varieties that may be in existence, and an enthusiastic in-
clination to raise finer sorts hereafter; all of which fully
proves that we are, truly, living in the land of the vine.

CHAPTER I.
INTRODUCTORY REMARKS.

"We find, from history, that the grape-\'irie has been
one of the most esteemed and essential fruits from the most
remote periods of antiquity. Its cultivation has followed
the migrations of civilized man into all climes suitable to
its prosperity, and, since the erection of glass houses has
been understood, has become adopted into many countries
where it otherwise could not succeed.

In the United States, the different varieties of the native,
Vuis Labrusca, as Isabella, &c., and those of the native
Vitis vulfina^ as Scuppernong, &c., with ordinary treat-
ment, flourish, and ripen their fruit in the open air ; while
those of the exotic, Vitis vinifera, as Ohasselas, Ham-
burgh, &c., have, excepting in a few solitary instances,
proved a complete failure, from their tendency to become
mildewed. In most parts of the Union, there is sufficient
light and heat to bring the different varieties of the latter
species to maturity, and they are hardy enough to resist
the cold, but unfortunately, when the disease (allow the
expression) attacks them, the free action of growth is
checked, the energy is impaired, and instead of well-
hardened wood, there is nothing but an unripened, sappy
substance, to withstand the severe winters. The fruit
also is rendered worthless from the same cause; and
although many attempts have been tried, with the most
sanguine expectations, they have been as often abandoned.

This evil is the result of the growth of fungoid vegeta-

ai)

12 THE GRAPE.

tion, the development of whicli is accelerated by the ex
cessive changes from dry to moist, from heat to cold, and vice
versa. Fortunately, the erection of glass houses is now
so well understood, and material is so cheap, that we have
a ready antidote; for, by planting inside these structures,
we are enabled to equalize the temperature and overcome
the difficulty. There is also the advantage, if we take the
whole range of the subject, of being able to cut ripe grapes
nearly the whole year round ; and even as a general crop
in the cold grapery, with a proper selection of sorts, a sup-
ply may be obtained from the middle of July, or the be-
ginning of August (according to locality), on to near the
end of December.

Generally it has been thought that the cultivation of
this desirable fruit was prohibited to all but the most
wealthy, on account of expense, and peculiarly myste-
terious skill. As to the first difficulty, good and suitable
houses can be erected, when heating app'aratus is not
attached, at from $8 to $14 per running foot, on the
length of the house, with all conveniences included, and
proper fertilizing materials are no great expense ; so
that this obstacle can be removed even by those of humble
means. In making the above assertion as to cost, it is
not presumed that the lesser amount will complete a
stately building, but a snug and well adapted small house,
such as many would like, can be finished for that amount ;
and the greater sum will furnish a profit to the builder, on
a structure sufficiently elegant and commodious to gratify
the most wealthy or fastidious. With regard to the
skill, if the directions hereafter laid down (with a little
observation added) be acted upon, a sufficiency of prac-
tical knowledge will soon be acquired ; for these direc-
tions are the result of the author's experience, and
are only what have been and are still being actually

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 13

Rccomplislied by good grape-growers. Many have been
prevented from commencing by seeing the many fail-
ures that have occurred, the small number of successful
cases, and the hitherto almost general " say," that it is
absolutely necessary in all cases to have fire heat. But
we are dawning upon a new era in these respects, and the
alacrity and determined enthusiasm with which many have
now come into, and others who are beginning to enter the
field, will go far towards dispelling these fears, and will
eventually drive out prejudice. No fruit-bearing plant
will give greater satisfaction than the grape-vine, and
nothing horticultural will continue to prosper without it.
All that is wanted are a few right ideas, and the writer
has done his best to discharge his duty, feeling convinced
that ere long the grape-house will be considered as neces-
sary an adjunct to an estate, however small, as at present
IS a peach-orchard.

Botanists disagree with respect to the classifying of the
genus vitis, some making the species very numerous, and
others only dividing it into well-marked specialities, thereby
simplifying and rendering the differences more distinct.
There are some men so fond of dividing and subdividing
nature's distinctions according to their own fickle whims
and fancies, that, were we always to follow them, it would
take a lifetime to begin to understand their abstract con-
nections ; and as these individuals have in many cases
become authors, and consequently are referred to as au-
thority, there is some apology for the novice wandering
in the maze of misunderstanding which they have to some
extent established. Such men ought to take a course of
practical lessons in hybridization, and see the results, be
fore publishing their manuscripts, when they would dis
cover that many of their so-called species are no more
distinct than some of the varieties which may be artifi-

14 THE GRAPE.

cially produced. However, this has little to do with ns in
the present subject, further than the understanding of the
difference between our natives and the exotics, and here
it would appear that the constitutional properties alone
are sufficient to make a true natural division ; for, unless
we are greatly mistaken, there has not been one variety
of foreign origin, or yet a seedling, direct from the same
source, which can be truly verified as withstanding the
changes of our climate, with the same pertinacity as the
natives.

The exotic grape-vine is a native of, and flourishes the
best in warm, even, and comparatively dry climates ; its
organization is such as to require a long, steady, and warm
season to perfect its growth. Under favorable circum-
stances, it pushes forth a vigorous development, and ab-
sorbs alarge quantity of nutriment from the soil, if encour-
aged to the full extent of its powers. The broad and
ample foliage perspires and respires very freely. Hence
it follows, that the atmosphere in which it is growing
should be most particularly adapted to the various stages
of growth. Practical experience shows this to be deci-
dedly the case ; for, when not attended to, the most inju-
rious consequences follow.

Heat is the cause by which the sap is set in motion in
the spring, and when it is once excited, the action is grad-
ually increased along with the rising temperature, until
eventually the whole energies of the plant are brought
into active play. Light and moisture, combined with
heat, are essential to its welfare; they encourage this
action, and enable the plant to develop and mature its
growth to its fullest capacity. This being the case, it is
easy to see that in so vigorous a grower a» the grape-vine
a great amount of these three elements is required. This
I would most particularly impress upon all grape-growers.

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 15

Heat, liglit, and moisture are the main requisites ; yet
these elements are generally too sparingly administered,
although the grape-vine requires them all in abundance
while growing freely.

It would be well if all cultivators were to study more
closely the laws by which the vegetable world is gov-
erned ; were it so there would be fewer failures. We are
attached too much to set notions, and follow the blind
practice of prejudice oftener than we ought ; and if we
add to this the great number of pretenders who swarm
over the country, there is no occasion to wonder at the
many failures. Let it not be thought that I wish to de-
preciate the character of the skilful horticulturist, for we
have many men who are an honor to the calling, — well
qualified to give advice, and under whose care the grape
vine is as well managed as in any part of Europe; but
while wishing to do all in our power to uphold the pro-
fession, we should raise our voice against those egotistical
empirics who often deceive the unwary, waste the pro-
perty of those who employ them, and bring ruin to many
a horticultural establishment. In no department is this
more often seen than in the grapery, where the weak
growth, the ill-fed papery leaves, and spare fruit tell a
woful tale of mismanagement. Yet no fruit-bearing plant,
yields more readily to the wishes of the cultivator, or will
bear more ill treatment than the grape, and if o^her fruits
had to be managed as artificially as this requires to be
under glass, there would be in them more failures, than it
is subject to under inexperienced hands.

Although there is much skill required in the cultivation
of this fruit in all its bearings, there are none of those
superannuated nostrums, or mysterious dogmas required,
that these quacks prate about, and the necessary know-
ledge is readily acquired. The main secrets are, to under-

16 THE GKAPE.

stand the constitutional habits, and adapt our treatment
accordingly. Now, if we take into consideration, as stated
above, that the exotic grape-vine is indigenous to, and
flourishes best in those countries which have long and
steady summers, and that those same localities are com-
paratively dry during the periods of rest, it seems only
reasonable that we should keep up a warm and equable
temperature during growth, and also have the roots in a
well-drained, or naturally dry substratum, — so far for its
natural requirements. All that we have so far done, by
attempting to acclimatize the grape, has not yet overcome
these physical difficulties, neither will any future attempts
succeed, unless we get a race of seedlings , crossed with the
native varieties, and raised in our own climate. By en-
couraging vigorous development, by a moist atmosphere,
added to this required steady heat, and afterwards concen-
trating the collected juices by a further continuance of
the latter principle, with air more freely admitted until
the approach of maturity, afterwards reducing the tem-
perature, and moisture as ripening progresses, it will bend
to the will of the most fastidious enthusiast.

By the aid of glass houses, either with or without arti-
ficial heat, all this can be accomplished, and as they can
be erected of any size to suit the pecuniary means, or
caprice of different persons, a grapery is within the reach
of a poor man. How gratifying would it be to the me-
chanic, and small tradesman, to have attached to his
homestead a small house of grapes, — ^what an appendage
to his little domain, and with what exulting feelings would
he view his crop as "he sat under his own vine," and
watched with an enthusiastic pleasure the several stages
of bursting buds, flowers, and fruit, knowing that he could
enjoy his own luscious grapes, equal in quality with those
of the most wealthy proprietor in the land, or the great.

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 17

est nabob in aristocratic Europe. Tliis pleasure may be en-
joyed by most persons. Half the money that is often
spent in " gingerbread" decorations, miscalled ornaments
around a dwelling-liouse, would erect a little grapery,
which in many places might be attached to, or cover one
end of the building, having a door leading into it from the
house : and let not the wife or daughters think the neces-
sary attentions required during the absence of the " gude
man," to be a degrading pursuit, for it is no mean occupa-
tion. Woman never yet lowered herself by being seen in
the garden, or by obtaining a knowledge of plants, and
rural affiiirs, and it is surely far better to be employed in
healthful exercise, such as is here furnished, than to be
lolling from morn to night, inanimate, as it w^ere, upon the
downy sofa, reading exciting and voluptuous novels, and
assisting the seeds of consumption to germinate. Would
that we could induce our accomplished matrons, and fair
belles to take a more active part in the operations of hor-
ticulture. Why should these departments be considered
too masculine for woman's position in society 1

CHAPTER 11.
HOUSES AND CONVENIENCES.

There Las been from time to time, much controversy
respecting the various kinds of structures which are most
suitable, for cultivating the grape vine. Some advocate
the curved line, double pitch; others again, the straight
line, double pitch. Some, from a preference for old no-
tions, think none so suitable as the common lean-to, while
a few who have advanced a step out of this position,
will admit instead of the common plane lean-to, a roof
with a curved line. Latterly a new notion has sprung up,
and we find the ridge-and-furrow-formed roof is gaining
an ascendancy.

In order to make this part more easily understood, it i»
divided into the Cold Grapery, or growing without artifi
cial heat ; Forcing House, Forcing House for Pot Culture,
and Retarding House.

Cold Grapery. — The form of the house for this pur-
pose is not so material, as the having it so constructed,
that it may be shut up tight in cases of emergency. With
this precaution, good glass, and good management, any
style will answer the purpose; conse(|uently the build-
ing may be erected to suit almost any fanciful design
which the architect may choose, providing there is con-
venience for training the vines properly, and at a suitable
distance from the glass; and if thought proper the whole
surface may be of glass, for while this house is being
worked, there is not much cold weather to contend with

118)

HOUSES AND CONVENIENCES. 1[)

nothing more than can he guarded against hj closing up.
If there is any preference for general utility, the curve
line double pitch ought to be chosen, as from the convex
surface which is exposed to the sun's rays, at whatever
altitude he may be, the intense heat is somewhat scat-
tered, there is less danger of the leaves being scorched,
and the light is also more equally distributed ; this form
is also generally considered the most agreeable to the eye.

Whatever style of double pitch be adopted, the ends
ought to face north and south, or as ne^r these points as
may be convenient, — although a few degrees, variation
either way is not of much consequence. By placing the
house in this position, both sides receive the influence of
the sun equally ; besides in the middle of the day, when
his rays are most intense, they are partly warded off by
striking obliquely upon the sash-bars above, which on the
whole length of the house, acts as a considerable shade.

In some cases, it may be desirable to cover a dead wall
or side of a building ; or it may be requisite that the cold
grapery should be connected with a line of early forcing,
or plant houses, when the lean-to roof will be most con-
venient, but there is no other advantage in adopting
it, for with a double pitch, having two rows of pillars
inside, one on each side of the central pathway, both
sides may be planted, thus accommodating a double quan-
tity of vines ; besides there is no back wall seen, and it
shows better taste in the proprietor. Where the avoiding
of expense is an object it is also the cheapest, considering
the number of plants provided for. Where the lean-to is
adopted, the south-east, or south-west aspect is best,
though full south is not objectionable, and grapes may be
well ripened when the house faces due east or west.
Further north than these two points cannot be considered
suitable. In case it may be wished that the Cold Grapery

20 THE GRAPE

should correspond with some peculiar style of architectuie
in the dwelling-house, or other contiguous buildings (and
these points ought often to be considered), the ridge-and
furrow roof offers the greatest facilities, as it may be
adapted to almost any form, without destroying its efS
ciency, for the vines can be trained horizontally under the
roof; the grapes also look very handsome in this position
as they hang perpendicularly down from the whole sur-
face above. The canes in this case may be conducted
along the under surface of each furrow, and the side spurs
fixed at right angles, which enables the operator to arrange
the bunches with the nicest regularity.

With respect to the inclination of the roof, it is desira-
ble that it be not less than i5,° for the following reasons :
our almost vertical sun at midsummer, when there is the
greatest danger of scorching, will, at mid-day, strike the
glass at an oblique angle, thus lessening its intensity and
to a certain extent counteracting the evil The glass
being more upright, the wind or draft admitted through
the laps, will be somewhat intercepted, and confined more
immediately to the inner surface of the roof, which will
ensure a more equable temperature around the leaves and
stems, preventing somewhat the tendency to mildew. A
steep roof also gives an additional length of rafter on a
given width of house, which is an advantage, as the vines
with the general modes of training, have more extent to
develop their energies, and produce individually greatei
crops. ;

The frontispiece to this work is designed for the pur-
pose of showing a comple arrangement of the grapery to
suit all purposes, and at the same time to form a beautiful
architectural structui-e. Allowing the Cold Grapery to be
fifty feet long by twenty feet wide, and the others col-
lectively to be one hundred feet long by twenty -five feet

HOUSES AND CONVENIENCES. 21

wide, the whole could be finished and eveiy convenience
included for about S2500. The main front is shown in
the ground plan, Fig 2, to face full south. In such case it
will be understood that the Retardiiig House Avould have
a due north aspect, which is somewhat a disadvantage, ao
the sun would have little effect upon it. In order to
remedy this, one-third in depth of the upper part of the
central longitudinal division wall might be of glass, which
would allow a considerable portion of Uglit to pass through
from the southern side, and thereby obviate the evil. Such
a contrivance is now under the charge of the writer in a
house for flowering plants, and answers admirably. There
is, however, no objection, where circumstances will permit
of choice in location, to the placing of the front aspect a
few degrees east of south, which would in an equal ratio
turn the northern side towards the west, indeed all things
considered it would be as well for all requirements. If a
Retarding House be not wanted, the northern side might
be converted into a neatly finished row of convenience
rooms, or if this were objected to, it would make as fine a
house for apricots, camellias, oranges, or such like, as
could be desired. It is intended by the plan to fix the
heating apparatus in a cellar beneath the northern divi-
sion, and the boilers or furnaces near each other and adja-
cent to the chimney, each flue being conducted into the
main outlet as shown in Fig. 10. If the cellar were re-
jected, the north-east portion might be employed for t}^e
same purpose; but in the former case all nuisance is
prevented, and the whole building would be composed ol*
a surface of glass, from the wall plates to the ridges.

Fig. 3 shows an interior view of a Cold Grapery, now
under the writer's charge, which is 74 feet long, 20 feet
wide, and 14 feet high, from the base level; there is a
cistern sunk beneath near the centre, 12 i'eet deep by 12

HOUSES AND CONVENIENCES.

23

feet wide, and a force pump, hose, and tank for tempered
water. The bouse rests upon strong cedar posts, and the
borders are 20 feet wide each, outside; the inside like-
wise is prepared in the same manner, which gives an ex
tent of 60 feet extreme breadth. For proportions and

Fig. 3.

Inside View of the Cold Grapery of J. C. Green, Esq , Stalen Island.

style, this house is considered, by most persons who have
seen it, to be satisfactory in every respect. The vines
were planted in March, 1850, and there has been the fol-
lowing number of bunches, of good quality, cut in the
tstqjective years mentioned below :

1851,

202 bunches

1852, .

. 6 IS

1853,

918

1854. .

. 1147

Making a total of

2945 <•

24 THE GRAPE.

There is notMng extraordinary in the above produce, more
than others may accomplish ; it is only an averag:e of what
proper management and attention will do, and is more par
ticularly introduced, as an answer to the oft repeated
question, *'will it pay?" The average weight of these re-
spective crops, if taken collectively, would be one pound
per bunch, all of which might have been sold at whole-
sale for fifty to seventy-five cents per lb. The following
calculation of expenses, which is as correctly stated as
can be, will show the balance of profits :

2945 lbs at 50 cts.

$1472 50

Deduct labor 1st year. .

. $50 00

" " 2d " . .

. 100 00

" " 3rd " . .

. 150 00

" 4th ", . .

. 200 00

" " 5th " . .

• 225 00

Yearly dressings, S20. . .

. 100 00

Repairs, painting, &c., . .

. 200 00 1025 00

$447 50
By the above example it will be seen, that there
is S447 above the lowest wholesale market prices and
as the house, borders, &c., cost about $2000, it leaves
a surplus profit of 4^ per cent, per annum, upon invested
capital, which in the present position looks somewhat low,
but it must be considered, that in this case, profit was not
the object, everything was done, regardless of expense,
to make a good and fine looking structure ; the best French
crystal glass was used, and all labor paid by the day,
besides, in the first year there is no return profit, and the
last season is the only one, in which a full crop has been
taken ; take into consideration too, that the labor account
for after management is reckoned at $2 per day, and it
will readily be seen, that a good and suitable house may

HOUSES AND CONVENIENCES. 25

be built and tended so as to give a large return of profit.
A house of equal dimensions, and well finished can be
erected at ^12 per lineal foot, with the exception of cis-
tern, force pump, hose, and tank ; and if we make an es-
timate of all incidental expenses on a house equal to the
at»uve, and 50 feet long, it will stand thus :

House finished with two coats of paint,
50 feet long at $12.00 , . . $600 00
Brick cistern, cemented, 10 ft. by 10 ft. . 70 00
Tank, Force Pump, and Hose. . . 90 00
25 tons manure for borders at $2. . . 50 00
Material for drainage. . . . 20 00
90 bushels bones, at 50 cts. . . 45 00

100 do. charcoal, &c. . . . 15 00

Labor making borders, &c. . . . 20 00
48 vines, at 50 cts, . . . . 24 00

$934 00
The comparative weight of fruit that may be taken from
the latter will be about two-thirds, or 1964 lbs. at the same
prices, making the total value for the five years of $982,
and allowing the labor, expenses, &c., to be the same com-
paratively in both cases, we may put down $298 gain upon
cb capital of $934, which shows a profit of about six per
cent, per annum, and this too at the commencement. It
we were to reckon upon after years, when the vines,
would bear regularly full crops ; it will readily be seen that
the profits would be much greater, and that with good
managem.ent, there is no loss in having a Cold Grape? y
even though partial failures may occur.

When the grape-vine is to be grown to the greatest per-
fection, the house ouglit not to be applied to any other
purpose. It appears, at first thought very reasonable to
suppose, that fur a general or summer crop of grapes, the
2

26 THE GRAPE.

house may serve as a winter conservatory for flowering
plants, but experience shows, that however laiie the vi:»es
may be kept back in the Spring, the buds will burst before
the weather is suitably mild to turn the plants out, and
into the open air ; and at this time the vines will require
a temperature peculiar to themselves, which would gene-
rally be too damp and close for the plants, many of which
at the time, will be in a blooming state, requiring more air
and a cooler atmosphere, than will be suitable for the
vines ; besides it is almost impossible to keep down insects
in a house where plants are kept. There is some excuye
in an early forced grapery, which is so congenial to the
well being of some natives of the tropics, but as a general
greenhouse requires heating and the cold grapery does not,
the expense of two houses is not so great, compared with
the advantage to be gained ; therefore if possible, it is
much better to have two houses where both are wanted.
If pecuniary benefit be an object it is also more profitable,
for the grape if well dealt by, will be honest in return, and
pay a large per-centage upon capital, independently of
ordinary expenses of labor, &c., but when neglected the
reverse is the case.

In order to give free range to the roots it is advisable
to erect the house upon stone pillars, or locust, or cedai
posts, (each of which ought to be directly beneath a rafter,]
which will allow them free egress to the outside borders.

There are several ways by which these houses may be
ventilated, perhaps the most convenient is to admit air at
the top, and near the bottom, or under the wall plate.
The lower opening ought to be made so as to shut very
tight, as the admission of cold drafts from below has a
tendency to reduce the heat in the lower base of the house
—the very part which, if possible, ought to be the warm-
est. Nature here teaches us a lesson, and it would be welJ

HOUSES AND CONVENIENCES. 27

ii we always gave ear to lier instructions — the sun's rays
strike the earth, and produce the greatest heat at the sur-
face. She has no fixed confining canopy over the phints
under her charge to prevent the heat from passing up-
ward, and if we are obliged to have such, we ought not
to render our necessities more unnatural than there is occa-
sion for. Keep the head cool and the feet warm, is ad-
vice often given by our physicians, and the same rule
applies to plants generally, with very slight modifications.

If the roof be made with sashes to slide over each other,
which is the method best adapted for removal of the
house at any future time, the upper ones will become the top
ventilators ; but Avhen it is fixed, and composed of a con-
tinuous row of sash bars over supporting rafters underneath,
the openings require to he lifted up from the bottom, and
hung on the opposite end by hinges, or suspended by the
middle on each side, and opened on a pivot. When hung
by hinges the sides may rest upon the rafters, and the
lower end project a little over the next squares of glass,
thereby making it proof against drip, and this is perhaps
the best plan, for beside being safer against rain, air can
be admitted and the temperature lowered, without cold
draughts striking down into the house. If hung from the
sides there are no effectual means of capping, and however
good the joints may be, the rain will find its way through
more or less in time of violent storms.

The internal fixings required, are wires to support
.the vines, a tank to hold water while being tempered in
the house, a hose with a pipe attached to distribute
the water, and a force-pump to supply the hose. The
wires are most convenient when placed parallel with the
gash-bars, and about fifteen inches below the glass, which
will be sufficient to clear the leaves from contact ; if less
6i»ace is allowed, the foliage of vigoro'is vines will touch

28 THE GRAPE.

the roof, ana tire more exposed to tlie clianges of tcmpeta-
ture, their action also will be impeded by being cramped,
but a greater distance than is actually required is objec-
tionable, as the nearer the glass the better.

For a large house, a tank that will hold about two hun-
dred gallons will be requisite, and for a smaller house,
one in proportion. This tank during the earlier growing
season ought to be kept full of water, so that when used
it may be of the same temperature as the inside of the
house. Cold water applied i/mnedlately from an under-
ground cistern, or well., suddenly checks the action of all
flants, and ought by all means to be guarded against.
The forct-pump may be attached to the tank, and if an
air-tight metal globe be fixed over the discharge pipe, on
the same principle as a fire engine, a steady stream will
be propelled through the hose. By having two faucets on
the lower pipes, one leading to the tank, and the other
from the cistern below, there is no need for two pumps, as
they may be shut, and opened, so as to answer the double
purpose of drawing water from the cistern, or distributing
it from the tank over the house. For a small grapery
where economy is an object, a common syringe may be
used instead of the hose, but in a large house the force-
pump is more economical, and has the advantage of ena-
bling the operator to drive the water well into the crevices
of the wood-work, which greatly assists in keeping clear
of insects.

If there is not a good supply of soft water close at hand,
it is desirable to have a cistern sunk under or immediately
near the house, and the water conveyed into it from the
roof by gutters and pipe, which saves much labor, beside
the benefit of always having rain water, which is the best
for all plants.

The situation of the Cold Grapery is a matter of import-

HOUSES AND CONVENIENCES. 29

ance, and in making arrangements ought not to bo lost
sight of. It should be freely exposed to light and air on
all sides, if possible, away from the shade of trees or sur-
rounding buildings, and if sheltered on the north, east, and
west, so much the better ; but it is best for this to be a
sufficient distance, so as to secure a free action of the air
around. Shelter is not indispensably necessary, but if
practicable, is of use, as it assists in warding off the cold
winds, which often prevail until late in spring, and after
the vines have begun to grow.

The Early Grapery. — When the grape is produced as
an earlier crop than the cold grapery will furnish, we have
to resort to artificial heat, and with our ever variable
climate, particularly durjng the frigid blasts of the latter
part of winter, it becomes requisite, that we should have a
tight and well protected house to work with ; so that
variety of design has in this case to succumb to circum-
stances. When a warm temperature has to be kept up
by means of fuel, economy ought to be a prominent fea-
ture ; and further, it is indispensable that a wholesome
and growing atmosphere be maintained, which cannot be
the case unless there is a command of genial moisture
during the earlier stages of growth ; both these require-
ments are best secured by close built structures, in which
there is as little cubic bulk of air to be heated as may be
consistent with sufficient convenience. It will be readily
understood from this that, the different forms of curvilinear
and plane lean-to roofs are the best, the wall plate upon
which the lower ends of the rafters rest, being only a short
distance above the ground level. Where there is nothing
to interfere with choice, the curve line is preferable, so fur
as beauty, and the equalizing of the sun's rays is con-
cerned, but there may be a set-off against this form, from
the greater surface of glass, which may be thought to

80 TUE GRAPE.

conduct tlie applied heat away witli a more than tqu^il
ratio. Balancing all points, what is gained by one, is lost
in the other, and both are equally suitable.

With regard to aspect, full south is the best, where con-
venience will allow. South, south-east, is sometimes re-
commended, but, although with care, it answers well
enough, there are the following objections. It often hap-
pcnSj "-hat the most severe cold, or lowest grade of the
thermometer outside, is immediately before, or at the time
of sunrise, on the clearest mornings, and the heating ap-
paratus must not be allowed to cool down ; now as the sun
rises direct, or nearly perpendicular from the horizon, the
rays strike (with this aspect) very quickly upon the plane
of the roof, which in conjunction with the internal action,
suddenly raises the temperature, at the time when the ex-
treme cold, and often severe winds, will not admit of air
being given, consequently there is danger from the quick
transition unless the greatest caution be exercised. If the
house face full south, the sun at this time will strike more
obliquely on the end, which will to some extent counter-
act the evil, and there is also an advantage in having
greater natural warmth later on in the evening.

The following cross section, and ground plan, figs. 4 and 5,
and description of an Early Grapery, now in care of and
erected under the supervision of the writer, and which has
answered every expectation, may be of service here, and
will illustrate our own practical ideas on the subject. The
dotted outline shows a house, which, in this example is
devoted to the growth of Camellias, and, being fixed in
this position does away with the necessity of a shed, and
assists in keeping the grapery from exposure. The sam«
arrangement will apply where there is a building already
erected, and which, would become the back wall of the
intended house.

HOUSES AND CONVENIENCES.

81

In tins case the lioiise faces south, south-east (owing to
convenience), with a slope on the roof of 40*^, it is 78 feet
long, by 13 feet wide, 2 feet high in front from the ground

Fi?. 4.

I" 1 1 1 1 1 t 1 1 1 1 1 t 1 1 1 1 1 1 ( 1 I 1 1 l"Q^

.; (3 ^a ^^ ^ ^

il!illil!ll|lilllili!illlll|'l|lll|itl!i||!iil|ilil!!illll

!lil|iPi|l|il!l|lll!;i!iil''iii!|l!li!!li|l;!lilii!!ll|!|l!liy^

' ' ' -TMJK .'.__'_]

level, and 14 feet at the back. The foundation posts are
Red Cedar, placed six feet apart, and sunk four feet in
the ground, with the upper or exposed part, dressed off
square, and cut at the top so as to form an even horizontal
line ; upon these the wall-plate is fixed, and made firm by
being let in about an inch, the lower end of the rafters,
which are six feet asunder, and the sash bars are socketed

82

THE GRAPE.

into the wall-plate, and it is made sufficiently wide to
allow of five inches projection on the outside, this part
is scooped out on the upper side, and becomes the gutter,
hy which the water is conveyed to the cistern pipe ; be-
side this there are cross bars every four feet on the length
of the rafters, that stay and make the sash bars firm ; vent' •
lation is obtained by slides in the front wood work, imme-
diately beneath the wall plate, and by sashes 2 feet six in-
ches long and the same width, fitted by hinges at the
ridge pole, these are lifted by a three-eights iron rod,
having a hook at the upper end which is slipped througli
a hole in a small plate affixed to the middle of the lower
end of each sash; the rod is steadied by being passed
through two apertures at the end of a shaft three inches
long that is welded, each into a small plate, and this
screwed to the back side of the house ; one about nine
feet, and the other five feet from the ground. In the front
of the lower hole is a screw worm, and a thumb screw to
fit, which on being turned either way liberates or fostens
the bar, and the sash is kept firm at any desired height.

Fig. 6, shows the sash open This simple contrivance,
costs very little, is effective, has the advantage of nc«v<tr

HOUSES AND CONVENIENCKS. 33

getting out of repair, and is as permanent as the house it-
self. It will be understood that this style of "building glass
houses, is simply a frame work covered with glass, with-
out any double sash, and consequently there is no use for
any additional portion of the rafter above the sash bars
(as is the case where the sashes are made to slide), which
is a decided improvement in appearance, and equally suit-
able. The house is heated by one of Hitchins' of New
York middle sized boilers, and there is a lineal measure of
340 feet of four inch pipe employed, giving a double row
of flow and return, beside the necessary appendages. One
row is fixed close along the front, and the other at a dis-
tance of seven feet nearer to the back, which leaves room
for a pathway, without any dip in the pipe, and there is
the additional advantage of having all the heat arising
from the front, and lower part of the house, thereby se-
curing as much as possible, an equal temperature over all
parts. There are two rows of vines* planted, one to the
back wall, and the other about a foot nearer to the middle
of the house than the front row of pipes, which makes a
distance of eighteen inches from the extreme front ; the
lower part of each of the roof vines is curved towards
the bottom of the rafters, and consequently project partly
over, but are some distance above the pipes, and to prevent
injury from the heat when the apparatus is at work, there
is affixed behind each, a short board, about ten inches
wide, which protects the stem most effectually. The ob-
ject of this arrangement was to insure warmth in front,
and more particulary the lower part, and at the same time
w^ith the vines planted inside. It is a plan which we have
not seen elsewhere adopted, and was conceived from a know-
ledge of its being somewhat in accordance with natural re-
quirements; so far it has fulfilled all that was predicted, and
what answers in our own practice, may be justifiably
2*

THE GRAPE

recorded, even tliongli it should conflict with the notions
of others. As to pLanting an exotic grape vine outside of
the house, so long as the roots have free egress, or expos-
ing the stem to the vicissitudes of climate, such as we
have in this country ; we never yet saw the argument,
often though it has been attempted, and as often eloquent
ly advocated, that could bring conviction, as to its being
philosophical, or reasonable. In nature, we find the heat
greatest near the ground, from the fact of the atmosphere
being compressed, and the reflection, which take places by
the sun's rays striking the surface ; and although we know
that the stems of some plants are injured by his direct ac-
tion upon them in hot weather, they are seldom affected
by the same temperature if kept in the shade. This is the
only explanation that will allow any amount of advocacy
in the present instance, and it stands to reason that it
serves little purpose.

Fig. 7.

Figs. 7 and 8 will explain how a suitable structure may
be adapted by a brick flue and furnace, with a shed at-
tached, and it is preferable that it should extend the
whole length on account of the shelter. As the flue will
occupy more room than hot water-pipes, it is advisable fo

HOUSES AND CONVENIENCES.

35

plant tlie ^ines close to the inside front; and in making
calculations, the entrance to the house should be elevated
VQ that the pathway may pass over the top of the flue

Fig. 8.

without which it will always be troublesome when walk-
ing through the house. This only requires a little inge-
nuity in each individual case, according as the detidls of
arrangement may suit the particular circumstance.

Grapery for Pot Culture. — If a house were to be
erected purposely for pot-culture, the most suitable and
economical would be as shown in fig. 9; the inside floor-
Fig. 9.

ing sunk a foot being below the ground level, and the
under base well drained around the outside founda-
tion, to prevent cold moisture from penetrating laterally,

36 THE GRAPE.

and if the heating apparatus be fixed around the
inside, near to the walls, there will be an equal distribu
tion over all parts. Such a house, if only ten feet wide,
would accommodate three rows of vines, and leave room,
for a pathway ; one row being placed near to the back
with the path next, and, the other two nearer the front
"With this arrangement, there would be no occasion to
elevate the roof more than to give sufficient headway, ag
the path would be directly under the ridge, — say six feet
above ground, and seven feet from the inside level, by
which the exposure to cold, and severe winds is consider-
ably avoided, and a steady heat maintained with much
saving of fuel. There may be some objection to the short
back lights, which should be of glass, but as these may be
readily covered by shutters at night, and in severe dull
weather the evil is less than the common form of lean-
to, which has to be elevated according to the width of the
house, and inclination of the roof. It is only for pot cul-
ture that this will become serviceable in grape growing,
but for the purpose named, it is most suitable, can be
erected cheap, and is a compact and easily -managed struc-
ture. Where the house is already built, or it may be in-
convenient to adopt the above plan, on account of other-
wise general arrangement, an ordinary lean-to, and m.ore
particularly the curve line will answer the purpose to
almost equal advantage, and the design is only given as
the best adapted, where the intention is to be as perfect
as possible.

The Retarding House. — As the object of the retard-
ing house is to have grapes beyond the time Cold
Grapery, or least forwarded house will furnish them, it
ought to be so situated as to assist in checking the early
growth of the vines, it is also desirable that it should be
capable of being rendered thoroughly dry inside, and like

HOUSES AND CONVENIE.N'CES. 87

wise erected on a plan, by wliicli it may be readily and
econoinically heated, or rather that the applied heat may
not be wasted, consequently, a lean-to form ofl'ers the
greatest facilities as regards the latter, and a west front the
former requirement. There are several reasons why this
position is preferable. The coldest winds, more particularly
in the early part of the season, being from the west, and
north-west, there is a better chance of keeping back vege-
tation in the spring, and of preventing the invigorating
power of the sun at that time, thereby helping the vines
to rest for a time, and retarding the buds. It is also ad-
visable on account of the young and sappy growth being
liable to mildew during the damp and close weather of
July and August, at which times this pest is more than
usually prolific, and generally when the wind is south,
or south-east ; so that if the house be turned, as it were,
away from these points, the influence is somewhat des-
troyed. It may be thought, from these considerations,
that north-west would be better still, — so it would, but
for the deficiency of sun light that in such case would be
the result, for under any and all circumstances, the grape-
vine delights in a free exposure to the action of powerful
light, and without a due proportion, the after growth will
not become sufficiently concentrated to store up the re-
quired elaborate juices, or produce healthy and active roots.
Improvement, and greater perfection in all buildings,
is now advancing with rapid strides, and these lean-to
glass houses are beginning to be looked upon as obsolete,
and whenever, or wherever such shed-looking structures,
with bare back-Avalls can be, they ought to be avoided
Under some circumstances they are better adapted, to tha
situation of the garden, but it is only where they compose
a boundary line of a parallelogram, and when the back
part is not seen ; in such positions they are adm*ssible»

88

THE GRAPE.

and, also, wLere strong heat lias to be kept up all the
winter, but there are many instances where such might
be avoided in outside appearance, and yet the inside re-
main the same in character, and so with the retarding
house.

Any person who wishes to erect a house for this pur
pose, is sure to have one or more graperies, and most
likely one for the general summer crop, which is only
partially forwarded; in which case, a double span, with
the ends north and south, and divided longitudinally
through the centre, would answer both purposes ; the
west side being used for the late, and the east for the

Fig. 10.

earlier crop. We do not advise the east front as the best
in a general way, but when it gives the advantages here
mentioned, there is no reason why it may not be adopted,
and w^ speak from experience in saying that good grapes
may be grown as a second early, or general crop, with an
eastern slope of the roof. The annexed end section, fig. 10
will explain better than words how such double detached

HOUSES AND CONVENIENCES. .S9

houses may be constructed, so as not to show even the
convenience for the heating apparatus, further than a door
to shut down over the under-ground vault, and even this,
if thought objectionable, may be made to form a part of
one of the pathways inside. The example given is an
arrangement of, and now under the charge of, the writer,
and ansAvers admirably. Hot water is here used for heat-
ing, but the same is equally applicable to the furnace and
common flue, with the difference of placing the chimney
at the opposite end.

Since the above was written we have been apprized of
a method of ventilating double pitch curvilinear houses,
which has been invented by Mr. William Webster of
Rochester, and for which he is about taking out a patent.
His plan consists in having a movable chamber along the
whole length upper part of the house, and which he can
lift or lower at pleasure. If the machinery can be made
to work well and kept in permanent order, he has con-
ferred a great benefit upon the public, and deserves the
thanks and support which all such useful improvements
ought to receive.

CHAPTER III.

ARTIFICIAL HEAT AND APPARATUS.

In the first stages of civilization, man was contented to
eat the fruits of tLe earth as nature produced them in
each division of climate, or separate locality, but as luxury
crept in, he began to wish for those of more favored climes
than the one in which he, in many cases, happened to be
placed. His earlier peregrinations into more southern
countries enabled him to see the splendor of tropical
flowers, and taste the luscious fruits which there abound,
and to enable him to enjoy these desirable additions at his
own home, it became necessary to imitate as near a?
could be done, the climate from whence they came ; and
here is the first inducement to use artificial heat, which
though of impel feet character so ftir, to a certain extent,
answered the purpose. This partial success set ingenuity
to work, houses constructed partly of glass were erected,
and so the thing has progressed from the half-glass, half-
slate building, with clumsy stone or brick flue, to the
Crystal Palace, and the elegantly modelled and scientific
hot-water apparatus, until, even in most inhospitable
regions, the fruits and flowers of the torrid zone are pro-
duced in equal, and sometimes superior quality, to that
which is found in the places to which they are indigenous ;
besides which, skill has so far triumphed, that by a judi-
cious application, or withholding of the artificial caloric, a
succession of crops may be had to suit the desires of the
most fastidious mind.

(40)

ARTIFICIAL HEAT AND APPARATUS. 41

To say tlie best we can of artificial heat, it is only a
necessary evil, but as we cannot do without using it, we
ought to put in practice the best and most economical
method that is at present known. The only advantages
arising from this necessity, is the raising of the tempera-
ture of, or drying the atmosphere in any given house
under care, so as to suit the particular purpose intended,
and so far, by adopting the latest improvements and fore-
casting as to what is required, we can work along with
comparative surety. There is no use of entering into a
theoretical disquisition of the relative properties of caloric,
nor of showing up the science of chemistry in combustion.
our object is to find out how we can at the least expense,
and with the more certainty, apply this subtle principle.
Suffice it then to say that there are about four ways in
which we can adapt it to our use, viz. : by steam, hot water,
brick flue, and what may be considered a modification of
the latter, the technical term Polmaise

Steam is of no practical use, unless where a large ex-
tent of houses, all. in the immediate vicinity are to be
heated, neither can it be used with any certainty, unless
the water is kept up to the point when the steam is given
off in great quantity, so as to force it through the pipes,
and the heat along with it ; besides there is the great dis-
advantage of a want of bulk of heated substance, which is
sufficient reason why this mode should not be adopted, for
on the fire going down, the house immediately becomes
cold, and consequently without the most careful attention,
there is danger at almost any moment in severe weather,
of injury to, or the loss of a crop.

Hot Wntcr has of late years become, and most deser
vedly so, the popular favorite for warming plant and fruit
houses. This method possesses the advantage of raising
the temperature without parching the air, or giving out

42 THE GRAPE.

any noxious gases, and if constructed on tlie best plan,
may be placed on the credit side c ? expenses, there is also
a steady heat in the working, and a sufficiency of bulk in
the quantity of water, which, when once put in motion,
continues to flow with increased or lessened velocity, ac-
cording as the fire is kept up, and for some time even
after no further heat arises from the furnace. There have
been diflerent methods adopted, as reservoirs for circula-
ting hot water, such as lining the inside of brick flues with
cement ; tanks of wood ; tin or sheet iron troughs, with
the tops left loose, to be covered or not, as circumstances
may dictate ; circular copper, tin, zinc, and cast iron
pipes. The cemented flue is objectionable, as the material
is so non-conducting, that there is great loss, and the
cement is also liable to crack, which causes leakage. The
open tank, and trough is well enough for a propagating
house, which is generally small, and kept very damp, but
is not suitable for a grapery, in which is required, a moist
or dry atmosphere, according to the diiferent stages of
growth ; this plan also occupies much space, and looks un-
sightly. Tin pipes are not advisable from their tendency
to corrode, and unendurable qualities. Zinc softens when
hot, and is next to useless, copper if made strong enongh
to resist hard knocks, and be really serviceable is very
expensive, so we are driven to the last substitute, cast
iron, which answers every purpose, is lasting, erected
comparatively cheap, strong, and the different lengths are
readily cemented, the joints becoming as firm and tight as
any other part. The construction of boilers for this pur-
pose is also various, and there is a great difference in the
consumption of fuel, according with the ratio of heat dis-
tributed to the water. In the most primitive boilers, the
fire only played on the under surface, and the consequence
was, a great waste of heat, unless the residue was con-

AETIFICIAL HEAT AND APPARATtJS.

43

veyed around the house in a flue, which almost nullified
the improved principle ; but of late years a great improve-
ment has been accomplished, so much so as to make it
almost perfect. After having been acquainted with nearly-
all kinds, I have not found any to give so much satisfaction
as those constructed on the cone principle, of which fi<^. 11
is a longitudinal section, and fig. 12 an external view of
the latest and most improved plan ; and, notwithstanding the
progressiveness of science, I do not, at present, see how this
iri to be superseded. It is made and to be obtained from

' -t5?^f^. -Plor 11 iL^^^i^^ Fig. 12.

Weathered & Oherevoy, of 117 Prince street, New York,
and is decidedly more economical and better than the one
figured in the first edition of this book. The boiler is a
double casing,, between which and the internal connections
the water is contained. It occupies very little room, and
requires no masonwork whatever; the stand for the boiler
being made of cast-iron, which forms the ash-pit underneath,
and a chimney or pipe to convey away the smoke. This
apparatus, when completed, with pipe four inches in diame.
ter, will cost from $1 to %\ 25 per lineal foot on the meas-
ure of th*» pipe, and a house forty feet long for early forcing
would need about two hundred feet, so that reckoning tho

44 THE GRAPE.

greater price mentioned, tlie expense would be two hun-
dred and fifty dollars, but for a longer bouse, or wbeii a
larger order were given, the comparative cost would be leps.

Brick Flues. — Heating by brick flues is often practised,
and if they be constructed on the best method, with good
workmanship, they answer very well ; the expense on
first erection is less it is true, but they often want repair,
besides whicli they are unsightly and cumbersome, and as
a general thing, will consume more fuel than a hot-water
boiler on the above plan. If the situation, or circum-
stances, make it more convenient to burn wood instead of
coal or coke, then the flue is to be preferred ; in such case
the furnace should be large, and the draft be under the
control of the operator, by having a door in front of the
ash-pit, and a damper in the chimney, which, when closed,
more or less, as may be wished, will keep the fire steady.

There are some cultivators who still cling to the flue for
grape-growing, on account of the drying effects of the heat
evolved, which, as they assert, is of some importance in
damp weather, when the grapes are coloring, or ripe, and
that at other times they can use evaporating pans. True,
it is dry enough, even to parching ; and were this the only
time when it would be required, the flue would answer the
best purpose. But this point is a matter of very little
consideration, as the same can be secured by pipes heated
with hot water. Nothing can be more erroneous than to
suppose that heat given out on the latter principle con-
tains moisture ; were it so, the water would waste consid-
erably through the pores of the metal, which is not the
case, for all or nearly the whole of the evaporation which
takes place is at the filling up tank, and if this be kept
covered, the working of a night will not lessen the water
more than a few pints. Heat, from whatever sources ob-
tained, will absorb moisture, and as glass houses are not

ARTIFICIAL HEAT AND APPARATUS 45

hermeticallj sealed glass bottles, tlie generated lieat is
constantly passing off through the crevices, more particu-
larly those in the upper part of the roof, and the moisture
along with it, The main difference, then, between the
two is, that one only raises the temperature, while the
other does the same ; and, in addition, imparts a certain
amount of sulphuretted hydrogen and other injurious gases
that escape through the joints and the bricks, in quantity
according to the good or bad workmanship, or the porosity
of the material. " Smoke has thin shoulders," is an old
adage among gardeners, and we often find it verified in
the use of flues. Notwithstanding these disadvantages,
good grapes may be forced by flue heat, and in some cases
this is the only means at command; when so, it is advisa-
ble to make the best arrangement we can. If a steady
and continuous heat be required, there ought to be enough
room in the furnace to hold a large bulk of fuel, and if it
is situated somewhat below the level of the flue, the heat
will flow more evenly, and disseminate itself more equally,
as it travels along with the draft, by which a greater por-
tion will be absorbed by the bricks, and given off into the
house. A small furnace, with a quick draft, is never eco-
nomical, as a considerable portion of heat passes off' by the
chimney and is lost. A narrow and small flue is also ob-
jectionable, as the heat acts directly upon the mason-work,
and the bricks become so hot as to abstract the oxygen of
the air, rendering it so devoid of moisture as not to be fit
for the leaves to respire in. To a certain extent, this evil
may be counteracted, by keeping shallow vessels filled
with water upon the flue, and damping the floor of the
house ; but most of the moisture produced in this way is
in a vaporous state, and not in the exact solution required
by the absorbing stomata of plants. The analogy be-

46 THE GRAPE.

tween plants and animals is in this respect the same, and
every body who is possessed of ordinary observation must
be able to discern how different is the air that is raised in
temperature by a red-hot stove, even though a vessel of
water be kept upon it, to what it is when raised to the
same temperature by the sun's power. We also know,
that if we were able to control other circumstances accord-
ing to our Avants for the time being, success would more
often attend our operations, providing we could exactly
imitate -the warmth of nature. If this be true, it must
then be certainly to our own interest to approach as near
as we can to this desideratum. To come to our point, a
capacious flue gives a greater surface exposed to the ac-
t'on of the heat, without becoming hot enough to bring
about so much chemical action as to burn the air inside of
the house, while a small one is sure to do so, at any rate,
in that part next to the furnace. To be effectual in this
respect, a flue ought not to be less tha*i eighteen inches
high, by twelve inches wide in the clear ; and if raised up
by placing supports underneath at intervals on the length,
with fire-proof tiles to form the bottom, so much the better,
as it then is free to give out the hea^, on all sides. The
furnace ought to be not less than eighteen inches wide, and
equal height, independent of the arch above, and two feet
long. A furnace of these dimensions is qualified to work
a house of forty to fifty feet long, by twelve or fourteen
feet wide, the flue being conducted along the front and two
ends. Double the length will need two fires, and so on in
proportion. When two furnaces are required, there may
be one placed at each end of the house, and conveyed to
the same chimney, midway in the back wall, so as to unite
into one outlet ; but in such case there ought to be an
acute level upwards at the place of union, or the two

ARTIFICIAL HEAT AND APPAKATUS.

47

opposite currents are subject to check the even flow of the
smoke, and drive it back.

The Pohnaise method of heating is a pLan tliat origin-
ated with a Mr. Murray, of Pohnaise, in Scotland, and, like
many other ingenious contrivances, was the result of pecu-
liar necessity. At the time of its introduction, it caused a
great furor amongst the seekers after novelties, and like
the fugacious follies of such persons, it soon fell into dis-
repute with all, excepting those who were determined not
to acknowledge their error. To say the best we can in
its favor, it is only a modified flue. The principle, if so it
may be called, consists in having a hot air chamber over
and outside the furnace, and conducting the heat therein
generated through one or more apertures into the house at
one end, and at the other having a hole level with the
floor, which forms the top of a drain that is conducted
along under ground to the furnace, and which supplies the
fire with fresh air to support combustion. By these means
the heat from the chamber is drawn through the house,
and a partial current produced, and from this it was at
first predicted that a great benefit would arise, on account
of the near imitation to nature's invigorating breezes. If
glars was not a rapid conductor of heat, this plausible

theory might have
been a practical
good ; but as it is,
and as heat will
ascend, in opposi-
tion to such a weak
power to repress
it, a great portion
flows along at the
top and back })art
of the houiie, lea v.

Fig. 13.

18

THE GRAPE.

Fig. 14.

iiig the lower part, or front, cold ; wliich, if there he a dif-
ference, ought to he the warmest. The only way in which
this plan can be tolerated, or he of
advantage, is, to combine the cham
her and fine, and make use of both.
This is economizing, as the whole
of the heat which radiates from both
sources is made available. Figs. 13

and 14 show a longitudinal and
transverse cross section of both com-
bined.

In concluding, we may say, that
after many years' practice with most
kinds of heating apparatus for hot-houses, we are thor-
oughly convinced that none is so efficient or economical
as hot water, and have never found any on that principle
to superQcde the boiler, as exhibited in Fig. 12.

CHAPTER IV.
BORDKRS OR PREPARED BEDS.

The formation of beds, or more teclinically borders, in
which to grow the grape vine is of great importance, per-
haps more so than any other portion of the whole routine
of culture, for without a proper matrix in which the roots
may luxuriate, it is impossible to succeed.

The more important any branch of horticulture is, often
the greater the number of opinions respecting it. This is
strictly true, in the present instance. Some have advo-
cated the admixture of great quantities of raw animal car-
casses, in such quantities, and large masses, that one would
think, if their reasoning were true, that a recently filled
cholera burial-ground, would be the best place on which
to erect a grapery, or plant a vineyard. Others again
have recommended large doses of blood, and the stink-
ing offal of slaughter-houses, in so fresh a state that the
very idea is enough to nauseate the strongest stomach,
and forbid the cultivation of this luscious fruit. Fortu-
nately these materials are not required, although when
thoroughly decomposed and well mixed with maiden earth,
there is no objection to the using of a portion incorporated
through the mass. It often happens when thus applied,
that a very vigorous growth is produced for a time, but
sufficient strength can be had without these stinking nui-
sances. If used at all, it should be in the form of top-
dressings in after years, and forked in, by which the fer-
tility will be assisted, without making the whole bed into
3 i"^)

50 THE GRAPE.

an unctuous paste, more fit to puddle a duck pond with,
than for the tender and fleshy roots of the grape vine to
luxuriate in. If proof of this were wanted, there are
plenty of examples if <»liey were to be examined, where
the roots that have come into contact with these masses
of soap-like substances, before they were thoroughly de-
composed, have been fiDund quite rotten, and if the vines
have continued to do well, it is not from the nutriment
derived from them, but from their ready adaptability to
form fresh spongeoles from the back roots, which may
have travelled in other directions, and with good treat-
ment added.

The advocates of this putrid animal matter, contend for
the greater invigorating powers and more lasting proper-
ties, than is to be found in barnyard manure, or decayed
vegetable substances. To the first we will agree, pro-
viding the stimulating portions be administered in a proper
manner, and here ends this part of the difference ; but how
it is to be more lasting, is another part of the subject. It is
a well-known fact, that highly nitrogenized manures, during
decomposition, give off veiy freely the volatile ammonia con-
tained in them, and as this is a great stimulant to vegeta-
tion during active development, it is easily seen how such
wonderful effect is produced ; as this exciting principle,
from its evanescent properties, porcolates into every aper-
ture in its escape, and no doubt a portion is taken up in a
gaseous state by the young and readily absorbing spon-
geoles. But does it follow, that this is any proof of per-
nanent action. Judging from the premises it would appear
the very reverse, and the frequent use of other manures
of a similar character — guano, for instance — have clearly
demonstrated, that oft-repeated applications with occa-
fiional additions of carbonaceous organic bulk, and other
inorganic assistance, have to be applied to maintain fer-

BORDERS OR PREPARED BEDS. 51

tility, where the same spot is constantly cropped. In tlio
present subject we are precisely in this position, and there
ought to be great regard for the future constitutional
power, if a healthy after-life be cared for, which is not to
be acquired by the excessive quantity of these helj)s,
that only act upon tlie vegetable, in the same manner
as do alcoholic drinks upon the human system. All our
best physicians acknowledge the good effects of stimu-
lants in particular kinds of disease, when administered
with skill, and everybody knows how soon the strongest
constitution is broken down by the great quantities that
too many indulge in. So it is with the grape vine; we
all commence with endeavoring to gain strong, and more
than natural growth, but there certainly is no reason why
we should keep our plants in a continual state of intoxica
tion, from the moment of their first awaking in the spring,
till they finally rest on the approach of winter, and still
leaving the same baneful influence, to diffuse itself over
the whole outer surface of the roots (which are equivalent
to the mouths of animals), until the next season's warmth
again arouses their action. We would not by any means
have it understood, that we are opposed to the judicious
use of ammonia, or any of the other compounds that are
to be found in more abundance in the animal, than in the
vegetable body ; but do protest against the inordinate
mixture of such, often to the exclusion of other, and more
necessary bases, and which leaves the plant after a few
years of undue excitement, a prey to disease and preraa
ture decay. If success has seemed to attend the progres
in some instances, the failures have been much greater
and unprejudiced experience shows, that more injury than
benefit has arisen from the admixture of animal matter,
even in small quantities, and in anything like a fresh state.
These remarks are only intended to apply to the flcfhy

52 THE GRAPE.

and quickly putrefying portions of the animal body, with-
out any reference to the hones. Here we will suhscribe
to the recommendation, because it is consistent with na-
ture, and furnishes along with other useful properties, the
often most wanting requirement, lime ; in this all grape
growers are agreed, and the invariable prosperity of ouf
pet, in places where limestone abounds among the soih
produces the most conclusive evidence. There is little
doubt but the want of this substance is the reason why
som.e of our vignerons have occasion to complain of rot
and want of success in various ways ; and here we may
ask, wh(,sver saw a grape vine that did not do well, and
produce fruit of good quality, providing the climate was
suitable, and the roots could creep along under the soil,
and lie upon the surface or in the fissures of a limestone
rock.

There are other persons who make the beds from three
to four feet deep of suitable materials, but use such quan-
tities of the richer quality, with insufficient drainage, that
the whole bulk, after a time, becomes sodden, and imper-
vious to either sun or air, in which no root can exist, much
less extend itself. These are some of the many causes
why our graperies so soon become weak and unproduc-
tive; yet the natural constitutional powers of the grape
vine are very strong, and of great longevity ; it is a gross
feeder and can absorb a large amount of food, but when
thus maltreated, although it may bear such usage for a
time with much pertinacity, it will in the long run (I'ke an
overgorgod glutton) become deranged, its physical func-
tions will be weakened, and it either dies of plethora, or
wears on an exhausted existence, producing little or noth-
ing but watery leaves, and weakly branches.

If such very strong growth were really requisite to pro*
«2uce the finest bunches, or berries, and could be obtained

BORDERS OR PREPARED BEDS. 06

by these means, there would be some excuse for thus
abusing nature ; but such is not the fact, for the most
superior and best flavored fruit, is had from solid, well
ripened, and vigorous, but not over-fed wood. AVhen the
bearing shoots are unduly strong, there are frequently
two or more developed from a bud, while with moderate
growth only one is formed, and as each of these buds
having received its share of nutriment, wherewith to start
future development, thus takes from the others a portion,
the consequence must be (as only one can remain) a weaker
action at first, and correspondingly less power afterwards,
than would be the case if there was only one centre.
The bunches emenating from such a bud, will also contain
generally a greater number of florets, and shoulders, equal
to the concentrated accumulation in the embryo shoot ;
for it is formed previous to bursting, and before the leaf
of the previous season falls, in the axil of which it is fixed.

In all cases of permanent success, the grape vine luxu-
riates upon a naturally, or artificially well-drained bottom.
It is best suited in warm, and comparatively dry climates,
and the constitution which nature has fixed, man cannot
alter. We must then adapt as near as we can, its position
in cultivation to its wants, and if we produce artificially a
greater than ordinary amount of growth, we ought to have
a corresponding medium whereby to mature that growth.
Well-drained borders is one of the means by which this
can be accomplished, as the superabundant moisture is
taken away, and the air and the sun's heat can more
readily penetrate the soil. If the following directions are
followed, there will be no reason to com.plain of want of
success on this point.

Take out to the depth of two feet, the whole of the up-
per surface, then dig a trench two feet wide and one foot
deep, with one or more outlets for the water to escape, all

51 THE GRAPE.

around the margin of the excavated space, which will
form a drain, three feet deep from the top, and one foot
below the lower base of the borders ; fill this trench with
rough stones, or brick-bats, the rougher the better ; after-
wards fill in over the whole surface, about six inches of
oyster, or other marine shells if to be had readily, but if
not, broken stones, or pieces of brick and lime rubbish
will answer, and if a quantity of broken bones are to be
got, strew them over the top of the other drainage ; cover
this with turf-sods, or any rough litter, to prevent the soil
from falling through and among the drainage, and throw
in the prepared compost to one foot above the top level ;
this will give a depth of three feet, which will settle down
about six inches, leaving the permanent depth two feet
six inches, viz. : two feet below and six inches above the
ground level.

In some situations the original base will be a dead level,
when the excavated surface ought to slope from the house
towards the outside of the borders, which will cause the
water to run the more readily towards the lower drains.
Care should be taken in this respect, whatever the level
may be, that the bottom is so arranged as to allow the
water to escape freely ; the means of securing which will
occur to any ordinary mind, according to the level he may
have to deal with.

It may be thought, that with this amount of drainage,
and raised, and not over deep borders, the soil will be-
come too dry throughout the summer to maintain vigorous
growth, but experience testifies to the contrary, for al-
though the under parts will not be over wet, the moist are
is equally divided through the whole, and if the upper
surface be mulched, examination will prove that every
portion is equally damp, and the innumerable small root-
lets are ramifying in every direction, each taking its

BORDERS OR PREPARED BEDS. 55

lUotted portion of work, to supply tlie structure of the
plant with wholesome food. Ellectual drainage has not
antil lately received that share of attention among culti-
v^ators generally which its benefits ought to command, and
even at the present day, there is a great want of proper
understanding respecting it. To a person who is contented
to go along scratching over the ground, sowing seed, and
leaving the rest to Nature, it is a difficult problem to
solve, how the conducting away water in land that is
already too dry and hard in summer can be of any ser-
vice. Thanks to science and agricultural chemistry, this
is now made so clear, by having been so often explained,
with examples here and there as proofs, that the myste'-y
IS, how men can still remain so blind to their own interests,
or entertain any prejudice against what has been so prac-
tically demonstrated.

Although it is recommended above to make the whole
of the borders at once, which is only one trouble and ex-
pense, and will answer very well ; yet it is much better
to prepare the drainage as advised, and make only half,
viz. : that part next to the house, of properly prepared
compost, fiiring in the other with the intended base soil
a little enriched, and after the first season's growth, work
up in the following fall, into the half of the unfinished
portion, the same quantity of fertilizing materials as the
former half was mixed with. In the spring, before grow-
ing commences, this may be again forked over, which will
incorporate all more evenly, and the next fiill the remain-
ing quarter may be done likewise. By this method tlie
borders are kept loose for a longer time, the air is more
freely admitted, and the whole is better adapted for the
healthy progress of the roots, which, as they extend from
year to year will penet:ate more readily, and fill every
portion. The tendency to become solid, is much reduced

56 THE GRAPE.

after tlie borders become filled with roots, as tbey are always
more or less drawing nutriment and moisture, thereby
rendering the base soil more porous, when the gases of the
atmosphere, which are very beneficial, have a chance of
occupying the interstices, and forming chemical combi-
nations Avith the material ; thereby producing a continual
renewal of suitable food for the support of vegetable life.
We have ample proofs of the con-ectness of this, and where
borders are constructed as above advised, there will be an
admission of air, not only from the openings to the drains
and from them under the whole bed, but also from above.

It is not by administering such enormous doses of stimu-
lating, or fertilizing material all at once, and before the
roots have progressed in sufiicient numbers, or distance, to
appropriate it to their use, that we are to calculate upon
the most permanent results, or immediate success. So
long as we supply from time to time what is required, it is
.X)ugh, and if we have got well drained and porous bor-
ders, we can the more readily apply top-dressings and
mulchings in after years, without injury, or covering
the roots too deep ; for if, in efficiently drained ground, a
layer of dung be spread over the surface, it will be found
after a time, that there is little but dry chaff left, all the
soluble parts having been washed by the rains down into
the soil below, and the plants will have received the bene-
fit of it.

With rco^ard to the width of these borders there are
many opinions, and different persons have been led by
the dictation of fancy into dogmatic assertion, without
duly considering the requirements of nature. Now, if we
take this for our guide, and, generally speaking, it is the
best reasoner, we must provide a large superficial area ;
for the roots of the grape vine are great travellers, and
will, if allowed their own way, extend over much space,

BORDERS OR PREPARED BEDS. 57

consequently free egress and plenty of room must cer-
tainly be essential, where the intention is to retain unin-
terrupted fertility for a long time ; beside which we ought
to consider the close proximity of the vines as they are
most commonly planted, and it then becomes still more
evident that we ought not to be penurious in this respect.
Our own recommendation is to make them ten feet wide
at the commencement, add five feet more the next season,
and five feet again the year following, making a total of
twenty feet, which will give ample space for a long time ;
but if success should attend the same stock some ten or
fifteen years, and the roots at the end of that time are
found so closely interwoven, as to be in want of more ex-
tension, it would be advisable to add another five feet, so
that in making first designs, it is well to forecast after ne-
cessaries. Many will, no doubt, think that this is a waste
of land that might be turned to advantage in other ways,
and others may not have so much ground at command foi
the purpose. As to the first objection, it may be answered
by the simple question of, what more paying crop can be
put on the added fifteen square feet that will be required
for each vine, than the increase of two or three pounds of
good exotic grapes, beside the benefit secured by retain-
ing the natural longevity of the plant, where considerable
capital has been invested at the outset in erecting a suita-
ble house. In the latter case there is the opportunity of
reducing the number of vines inside, and extending the
branches of those left so as to keep the whole roof covered,
thereby giving more root room individually. The very
common notion, that a grape vine, is so often worn out,
deserves to be classed with the things that Avere, — depend
upon it, if all its wants are duly supplied, and the house
substantially erected, a grapery may be left as a legacy
3*

58 THE GRAPE.

to our offspring, instead of being, as it too frequently is,
only calculated to become the pleasure of a few years.

The most suitable materials for composing the borders
are, a good friable loam (the top sod, grass included, of a
pasture), with a suitable quantity of partly decomposed
stable manure, in proportions of one-fourth of the latter
to three-fourths of the former, and a good dressing of
broken or ground up bones, say one bushel to every cubic
yard in bulk. If the soil contains much lime in its own
base, the bones may be dispensed with, but generally they
are of much benefit, being a very lasting manure, giving
out slowly, and when all the phosphates are exhausted,
they still remain as a carbonate of lime, among which
the grape vine delights.

When the base soil, where the house is to be erected, is
of the above nature, it may be used, and the other mate-
rials added on the spot, which will save expense. There
is often much useless expenditure caused in this way.
Never remove away the existing base unless absolutely
bad, excepting with little outlay, a much better substitute
can be procured ; for by good mixing of the fertilizing
matter and drainage to correspond, a poor soil may in
many instances be made good, and often Avlien it is consi-
dered impracticable, most likely all that is required. Im-
perfect drainage is frequently the cause that prevents
success, when it is attributed to an unsuitable constituent
base. The grape vine is not so capricious in its food as is
generally supposed, but a dry bottom it must and will have
to prosper.

CHAPTER V.

PLANTINO AND MANAGEMENT THE
FIRST YEAR.

Is clioosing vines for planting, see that the wood is
well ripened and solid, and the roots clean and healthy.
One year old, propagated from the eye are best for the
grapery, or from cuttings for the vineyard, but those of
two years are not objectionable. The most proper time
for planting is about the beginning of March, under glass,
or so soon as the ground is in good working order, out of
doors, when the vines have not been prematurely started
into growth, as they are then just commencing to move
from a long repose, and have no great time to remain in
their new quarters before fresh rootlets begin to push
forth. When deferred much longer, these fibres are sub
ject to injury, being very brittle. If the vines have been
grown in pots, which is generally the case, with the ex-
otics, the soil ought to be entirely shaken from them, and
the entangled roots carefully straightened out, care being
used when planted, that they are spread in all directions
diverging from the stem. After loosening up well, and
smoothing over" the surface around on the base, where it is
intended to fix them, have in readiness a quantity of the
same material as the border is composed of, broken up
tine and mixed with a third portion of leaf-mould, if to be
had — if not, it is not of much consequence, but the young
rootlets soon lay hold of it, and a gooji start is half the
battle. Strew two inches of this compost over the sur

cm

60 THE GRAPE.

face, place the plant tlius spread out upon it, and covei
with three inches of the same mould. It will be under-
stood that this mode of procedure will elevate the crowns
of the roots a trifle above the general level, which will
prove advantageous afterwards, as a top-dressing can be
added without their being buried down below the surface.
Avoid deep planting in all cases, for it leads to cankered
roots, and places them out of the reach of the warming
influence of the sun, and the exhilirating action of the
air, both of which are as beneficial to them as are light and
heat to the leaves and branches. It is not to be expected
that this particularity can be applied to the vineyard, but
so far as can be done economically, the same rule holds
good. Before planting, cut ofi" the top of the plant to
about six or nine inches, or down to two or three good
buds. The advantage of leaving more than one being
the choice it gives of retaining the most ^omising when
started, when all the worst can be rubbed off.

It is sometimes inconvenient to plant at the time above
recommended from some local cause, in which case, the
plants may be removed into pots, if so situated, of a
larger size than those that they were previously in, put to
grow in some other house, and attended to as regards
heat and moisture, in the same manner as if in their final
resting place ; as the young shoots progress in growth,
they will require to be carefully tied to a stake fixed up
right in each pot, and as the roots increase, larger sized
pots will be requisite to prevent them becoming pot-bound,
by which the vigor is consideraby checked. By attending
to these points, they may be kept on till June or July,
after which, if carefully turned out of the pots, without
disturbing tlie roots any more than can be avoided, a good
cane may be obtained the same season, though not often
strong enough to bear fruit the following summer; bul

PLANTING AND MANAGEMENT. 01

which, If planted in March, can generally be accomplished.
After planting, give a good soaking of water to settle the
soil around the roots, but do not allow it to become satu-
rated afterwards by too oft repeated applications, the ob-
ject being to keep it moderately moist, but not sodden, as
the tender roots are soon rotted when not drawing freely.

If the vines have been prematurely started into growth,
which is not desirable ; or it is thought fit to plant those
that have been raised from the eye the same spring, the
planting ouglit to be deferred till the middle of April, or
beginning of May, even though the house may be ready
in due time ; for if planted sooner, they would, under such
circumstances, receive a sudden check, from their being
removed into a much colder atmosphere than the one they
had previously occupied, and which would militate very
much against their future prosperity, if not be the cause
of failure.

We will now suppose that the house is planted and all
ready for a favorable beginning. For the first two or
three weeks keep all as close and cool as possible, only
giving sufficient air to lower the temperature. After this
time the house may be kept a little warmer, and the vines
syringed overhead two or three times a-day. Do not yet
apply much water to the roots, only maintaining moisture
enough to keep the soil damp, without becoming soaked,
as they have not yet got into brisk action, and conse-
quently cannot draw much of it up. Avoid dry winds,
and retain a moist atmosphere, allowing the thermometer
to rise from 70^ to 75^ in the middle of the day. By tlie
middle of April the buds will be mostly started, rub off
all but the strongest one, and mind that it is not injured,
or the top broken out. As the young growth continues to
extend, the paths, and the whole interior of the house, and
likewise the plants, should be damped with the syringe oi

62 THE GRAPE.

hose morning and evening, and during dry weather in the
middle of the day, avoiding the application in the brightest
sunshine. Do not give any bottom air until a vigorous
and strong action is obtained, and not then without great
caution, for it causes cold drafts in the lower parts of the
house and checks growth, rendering the vines subject to
mildew. Shut up early to retain a genial warmth before
sunset, and gradually increase the temperature, so that at
the beginning of May the thermometer may stand at 90^
at mid-day ; in cloudy weather keep all closed and en-
deavor to keep as steady a heat as possible. By the latter
end of the month, the vines ought to be grooving vigor-
ously : tie the canes up carefully as they progress, leaving
the ties somewhat loose to give room for after swelling,
and as the laterals push, pinch them off to one joint, re-
serving one or two entire at the top at each pinching in
case of accident to the leader, and likewise take clean out
the lower ones, or those last left with one leaf, at each
future operation. By this mode of proceedure they are
gradually reduced, and finally taken away, without endan-
gering the bursting of the buds in the axil of the leaf-
stalks, the which are wanted for the next year. The
heat may now be increased to 95^, still recollecting to ply
the syringe freely, excepting in dull or cold nights, when
water ought to be withheld, as under such circumstances
it is apt to starve and check the circulation — a matter of
great importance.

The roots will now be extending in proportion to the
expansion of head, and must have some attention ; for
here are the mouths, and here are also the digestive organs,
and woe betide the other members of the body if they
are not well supplied. Equally with the amount of
healthy foliage will they draw moisture from the base in
which they are located, so long as free development is

PLANTING AND MANAGEMENT. 63

progressing, aud water ought to be applied to the soil ac-
cordingly. As there may be reason in all things, so in
this, and the borders ought not to be saturated by too
often repeating the application, but of this there is not
much danger if the under base is well drained. A fork-
ing, both inside and out, over the whole surface, will now
be of service, but do not injure or disturb the roots ; this
will loosen up and render the bed more porous, and the
small rootlets will feel their way more freely, after which
a mulching of dung or short grass, four or five inches
thick, will prevent evaporation, keep an equal tempera-
ture and moisture in the soil, and, during hot and dry
weather, will almost entirely prevent the want of that
greatest of evil necessities, artificial watering, to the out-
side beds. Gradually increase the heat as the vines pro-
gress more rapidly ; by the beginning of June it may be
allowed to rise from 95° to 100'^ at mid-day, and if the
air is kept damp, scorching from so high a temperature
will be prevented, and both combined will enable the
plants to develop their fullest energies.

Many persons do not give heat enough ; even some of
our very best grape growers are sparing in this respect.
We ought to consider that, as the grape vine is generally
grown under glass, we place it in a position, by the sup-
ply of rich food, to produce a more than natural disten-
tion of cellular tissue ; the larger leaves also are capable of
doing more work, in elaborating the juices drawn up from
the roots, and these large leaves being filled with an un
common amount of sap, require a corresponding assistance
in the form of heat and light, to properly chemicalize
(excuse the expression) this extra quantity of crude fluid.
Hence the necessity of a warmer temperature than would
suffice for the same plants, if they were growing in the
open air, and the roots in a soil only ordinarily fertile.

64: THE GRAPE.

When the canes have grown to the top of the roof do
not stop theui, but train the tops between the vines o-
the opposite side, if the house be a double pitch ; and if a
lean-to, they may be allowed to hang down by the back
wall, stopping the leader when it has advanced somewhat
downwards, and leave the laterals on the same lengtli.
Thus the plants will go on swelling their growth without
check, and adding bulk to their structure.

Towards the middle of August, the air may be allowed
to become somewhat drier, and syringing overhead gradu-
ally lessened, as the wood will begin to mature : the lower
ventilators may also be opened on clear days — a little at
first, increasing more from day to day. By the third week
in September, water should be withheld altogether, and as
the wood will be ripening, air ought to be freely admitted
through the day, and the temperature decreased as the
canes approach maturity. When the bark becomes brown
and the wood solid, the house may be thrown open day
and night, excepting in case of frost or heavy rain, as the
object now is to let all go quietly to rest, and the leaves
to fall off yellow and fully ripe, when we may rest as-
sured that nature has done her work according to her own
will, and we have assisted her in accordance to her own
laws.

So soon as the leaves are fallen, proceed to pruning
If all has gone on as it ought to have done, the canes will
average five-eighths to nearly one inch in diameter, ac-
cording to the natural vigor of each individual variety, and
a corresponding length when not stopped, of twenty -five to
thirty -five feet. Cut off the strongest to about seven, and
the weakest to five feet. Afterwards take out with the point
of a knife each alternate bud, which will leave the remainder
about fifteen to eighteen inches apart, the object of which
is explained in the chapter on pruning, Commence at the

PLANTING AND MANAGEMENT. 65

top, leave three buds, one for next year's leader, and the
two others for side spurs ; proceed downwards, leaving
each alternate pair (one on each side) to the wall plate,
and as beneath this, the leaves and fruit would be out of
the sun's influence, and only subject to encourage mil-
dew, all buds ought to be removed.

The vines may now be carefully washed over with the
following preparation, which will destroy the larvse or
eggs of insects, if any should be existing. Whale oil
soap, one-fourth pound ; sulphur, four pounds ; tobacco,
one-fourth pound ; and nux vomica, one ounce : pour over
these boiling water, three gallons, and stir all up until
thoroughly mixed ; as the nux vomica is a deadly poison
to animals, care should be taken that it is not left care-
lessly about. A soft painter's brush is the best for the
purpose, and after the operation the canes may be slung
loosely to the wires till the weather begins to be severe,
when they should have a coating of straw three or four
inches thick tied around them, and the heads brought down
one over the other in a horizontal position, about two feet
above the ground level, in rows along the lines of plant-
ing; this will leave the lower parts of .the stem nearly
upright, and prevent the crown of the roots from being
strained or disturbed. At the same time, be prepared with
a quantity of recently rotted turf sods, or fresh earth,
which has been mixed up two or three months with a
third part of good stable or barnyard manure ; fork over
the borders both outside and inside of the house, and add
a dressing of three inches thick of the above compost. If
the crowns were planted slightly elevated, as before
recommended, this dressing will make the surfiice level,
and greatly assist the production of young rootlets next
spring, besides protecting the tender fibres through the
winter. Over the whole area may be put a good coating

6Q THE GRAPE.

of litter/ dung, tree leaves, or otlier such material to keep
out the frost, and which may remain as a mulching next
summer.

Nothing further is now required, but to shut up the
house on severe nights and wet weather, till the lads
show signs of bursting in the following spring.

CHAPTER VI.

managp:ment for the second yeak
and permanent treatment for
the cold grapery.

The following observations contain directions for the
treatment of a planting of vines in the second year, the
permanent management of the Cold Grapery, and some
other details of a general character.

As the winter milds off, and warm sunny days com-
mence, give air sufficient to keep the house cool, and to
prevent the buds from pushing as long as possible. If too
soon excited, the young shoots are in danger of being
injured by the late spring frosts, and cold storms. When
it is perceived that the buds are swelling, and can no
longer be kept back, take the covering off carefully, and
tie the vines down in the form of an arch, with the heads
leaning from the glass, as in this position they are not so
subject to injury in case frost should occur; there is also
the advantage of causing a more lateral propelling force
to the rising sap, which is compelled to develop the
lower buds with more certainty, and this action once
gained, with after good management always remains.
Give a good and thorough soaking of water to the inside
borders, which by this time will have become very dry,
also syringe overhead two or three times a day, excepting
when the weather is cold, or frost is to be expected, they
^'ili be assisted thereby to break unifoimly and strong

(«T)

68 THE GRAPE.

The temperature should now be regulated as advised for
the same period last year, in the preceding chapter.

When the young shoots begin to elongate, sling the
canes loosely to the wires, but some distance from tho
glass, as the further off for a short time the safer they will
be from accidental frosty nights. So soon as danger is
past, tie them finally in their places, leaving the strings
loose enough for future swelling, and be careful in training
the leading shoot upwards, as at this time it is very brittle
and easily broken. If not quite straight with the older
cane, the better way is to bring it into the right position,
a little at a time, when the woody fibre begins to form in
the base.

The bunches will now be clearly discernible, and when
they have fairly unfolded from tlie buds, so as to show
their form, and comparative strength, take out all except-
ing the strongest and handsomest one upon each shoot,
and remove likewise the tops of the side branches, beyond
the third or fourth leaf above the bunch. These will
again break from the top eye, and as they do so, from
time to time, nip out the leader to one leaf above where
it was last stopped ; this keeps the branches within bounds,
and at the same time leaves sufficient foliage to mature
the fruit and perfect growth.

When the blossoms begin to expand withhold water
overhead, let the atmosphere become somewhat drier, and
keep up a little more heat, and if the weather will allow
it, a freer circulation of air, from 85^ to 90^ at mid-day is
not too much, close with good warmth in the afternoon
and open soon enough in the morning, to prevent a scald-
ing smell in the house. At all times, with a clear sun in
the morning, ventilate so soon as the house begins to warm
a little, and close early ; the temperature by these means
rises and falls gradually. Nothing is worse in all plant

MANAGEMENT FOR THE SECOND YEAR. 69

culture, than allowing a house to be closed until it becomes
hot, and admitting at once a great quantity of cold air; in
grape growing, it leads to the most baneful results. Open
so m, and close early, ought to be a maxim well riveted
on the mind. Always have a thermometer hanging mid-
way in the house, about four feet from the ground, and
shaded from the sun ; observe it closely, and be guided
by it, and experience in ventilating will soon be acquired,
better than can be described by words — always remem-
bering that a gradual rise and fall are the desiderata.
Attention for a little while will teach, that early closing
tends to regulate the heat in the after part of the day, and
a due observance will lead to exact adaptability.

As the flowers continue to open, go over the house
once a day, and shake the bunches by a light flirt of the
finger, which assists in distributing the pollen, and enables
impregnation to go on with more certainty. This opera-
tion is best if performed in the morniHg, about the time or
immediately after giving air, as the flowers of all plants
are then in greater activity, and consequently there is the
chance of more peifect feitilization. There are certain
kinds, as the Alexandrian Muscat and its allies, — purple
damask, &c.j which do not readily fertilize with their own
pollen in a cold house ; that may be much assisted by
shaking over the flowers a bunch of Hamburgh or other
hardy sort, and as there are more bunches than is required
for ripening, there is always enough to spare for this purpose.

When blossoming is past, and the berries are fairly
set, a good syringing over-head will clean all the decayed
portions of flowers Avhich cling to and among the berries,
and will invigorate the Avhole plant. Let water now be
freely administered over every part, being careful that at
no time it is driven with force against the fruit, as in such
case it injures the surface, and produces " rust/'

70 THE GRAPE.

It will now be plainly seen which are the best set and
handsomest bunches, and as there are more than it is ad-
visable to ripen off, on account of the youth of the vines,
and the consequent danger of overbearing, thereby injuring
meir permanent prosperity, it will be better to reduce the
number according to the strength of the plant, or weight
of the bunch. A cane of three-fourths inch diameter may
be allowed to carry from six to seven, and one of half an
inch, five to six pounds ; but when they are smaller than
this, only one, or at most two bunches ought to remain.
Some kinds form much larger bunches than others, which
may be ascertained in some measure while young, and
the number may be calculated accordingly. A well
shouldered Hamburgh will weigh from one and a half to
two and a half pounds; if very large, from three and a half
to four pounds ; while the Malvesia is a large bunch of its
kind at ten ounces. Better to be guided by comparative
weight than number of bunches, as greater equality is
gained, and the vines are rendered more uniform in vigor
afterwards. Be it remembered, that it is much more diffi-
cult to bring back energy where a part is injured, than
when the whole is so, for the well-doing will take tho
lion's share of nutriment from the borders. In removing
the superfluous clusters take out the worst formed and most
weakly, and let the greater part be near the top of the
plant, leaving the bottom spurs as free as possible ; for a
vine while young is prone to push its strongest growth
upwards. By bearing the upper part the heaviest, the
circulation is equipoised, and the lower laterals are re-
lieved, and if the flow is encouraged to take a lateral
course at first, it is much easier to retain the same after-
wards. There is no occasion to crowd all the crop at tho
top, only let the greater part be there and the object is
accomplished.

MANAGEMENT FOR THE SECOND YEAR. 7i

All is now to be considered in full action, — the grapes
about the size of peas, and swelling fast, when it becomes
necessaiy to commence thinning out the superfluous
berries. First, tie out the side branches, in a horlzortal
position to the wires, if not already done; then fasten a
string to the end of each shoulder, and sling it up, at right
angle with the stalk, to the wires also ; the smaller clus-
ters may now be opened out by inserting small strips of
wood, notched on the two ends, under them, and supported
upon the projecting stalks below. This will open out the
bunch, and prevent the weight of each cluster from bear-
ing upon the lower berries. Next, proceed to cut out a
part of the berries, commencing at the bottom, and leaving
those for ripening far enough apart to allow the aggregate
to swell up, without squeezing each other individually
when fully grown. Some care is required in this operation,
and also a little idea, for the object is to leave to each
berry sufficient space to allow for full development, and
yet not so far apart as to make the bunch loose and
straggling. No exact rule can be given as to distance
required, but generally, one half to two thirds ought to bo
cut away ; the larger berried kinds will need more thin-
ning than the snialler, there is also a great difference in
the setting, but a reference to the descriptive list hereafter
given will be a guide ; the latest sorts too, and those in-
tended to hang longest, should be more distant than the
others; for, when a little assunder from each other, the
grapes keep much longer than Avhen they are crowded.
An experienced hand can tell pretty accurately how to
thin, so as to make once going over nearly suffice, but for
beginners, it is i:feihnps better to perf )rm the operation at
two or three times as they swell xp After the first year's
practice the right idea is gained, and there is no difficulty
afterwards. When thinning, do not handle the berries,

72 THE GRAPE.

or let the hair rub them, for while young, the skins are
very soon injured, when they become disfigured, and
marked with a russety roughness which is technically
called rust.

Continue to keep up a temperature of 90° to 100®
through the day, and use water freely ; damp the lower
part of the house two or three times between morning and
evening, and, when syringing at sundown, force the water
into all crevices and corners of the wood-work, to dislodjre
insects. Where this is attended to, red spider, or other
such pest, will never do any harm. Do not wait until
these vermin make their appearance, but always act on
the principle, " prevention is better than cure.''

As the leading shoot continues to progress, train it over
the top to the opposite side, as advised for last year, and
when it interferes with the fruit spurs in its downward
course, pinch out the top, as it would cause too much
crowding, and deprive the leaves from receiving due
light.

In very dry weather it will be necessary to use water
on the outside borders ; generally, one or two applications
is enough for the season ; but if severe, drought should
continue, it will be advisable to repeat the operation every
two weeks, till the fruit begins to color ; after which there
is no occasion for more, as there will be plenty of moisture
in the ground for all purposes. Were it not so generally
considered that large berries are a part of perfection, we
should be disposed to recommend the withholding of water
at an earlier period ; and those who would prefer a rich,
sugary grape, regardless of size, will be more sure to get
it by using water very sparingly after the stoning process
is fairly secured. Under these circumstances there is also
a better chance of producing good color, as the drier the
atmosphere and borders of a Cold Grapery, the less danger

MANAGEMENT FOR THE SECOND YEAR. 73

of mildew ; consequently, a greater supply of fresh air may
be admitted with safety, the result of which is, more solid
ity of fruit, a greater concentration of saccharine matter,
and, as a matter of course, a nearer approach to the natural
shades of color. When water is applied outside, let it be
a thorough soaking — no mere dribbling, but sufficient to
penetrate down and through the borders. The mulching
which was applied previous to winter should also be ex-
amined, and if the surface is not well covered, add more.
If the liquid drainings of a dunghill can be had, so much
the better ; but, first, dilute with an equal portion of soft
or rain water, and never use it but in a clear state, as
otherwise it clogs up the porosity of the soil, and renders
it sodden and " sour." The drainage from a cow-house
is also very good, but ought not to be applied until some-
what fermented, as, while caustic, the salts contained in it
are very destructive to the roots. Many persons apply
liquid manures, of various kinds, without caution, and
often do much injury thereby, while, if rightly used, they
are of the greatest advantage. By the second week in
July, some of the earliest sorts will begin to change for
ripening, when water may be dispensed with overhead,
but still applied to the roots in clear weather, which will
cause the atmosphere to be drier. With the ripening of
the fruit comes also an approach towards maturity of the
wood, and during this period, water is only essential to keep
up a healthy action, and should be gradually discontinued.
As a little quantity, often distributed, only damps the surface,
and the evaporation resulting therefrom produces a moist at-
mosphere when a dry one is wanted, the times of applying it
ought to be less often ; but when done, a good soaking
should be given. Once a week, for two or three weeks, will
be enough, and after that time once in two weeks, up to tlio
iriddle of September, when it may be withheld entirely.
4

74 THE GRAPE.

As tlie grapes continue to color, admit more air in clear
days, open the lower ventilators, a little at first, gradually
increasing, till a free current is obtained, which will assist
very much in improving the quality in all respects, and
likewise help in npening the wood.

After all are ripe, the house may be thrown open day
and night, excepting in storms or wet weather, when it
ought to be partially closed, so as to exclude the rain, and
at the same time leave air to prevent the grapes from be-
coming mouldy or cracked.

When frosty nights begin to occur, the house ought to
be closed in the evening, and opened again early in the
morning. Let the temperature gradually cool down, but
keep the leaves from injury, for the grand object now is to
preserve them until they fall off perfectly ripe, when we
know that nature is satisfied, and the wood sufficiently
matured to insure all requirements for another season's
development.

Immediately after the leaves are fallen is the best time
to prune ; and as we are now considered to be dealing
with vines which have had two summers' growth, cut
down the cane of the present season to the same length,
according to size or vigor, and likewise disbud it, as ad-
vised for the last fall pruning, which will make a total
length from the bottom of nine to twelve feet. Cut the
side spurs to three or four buds from the extreme base,
according as they may be plump or well rounded, and at
the same time peel off the loose bark from the outside of
the stem which has two seasons' growth, but do not injure
that which is immediately beneath the loose outer cover-
ng, nor remove any from the side spurs, or the present
summer's C9ne. The object of this peeling is to prevent
the lodgment of insects ; with this exception, it would be
better left on, for nature never forms any covering but

MANAGEMENT FOR THE SECOND YEAR. 75

wliat is useful ; but as tliis outer and loose bark is virtu-
ally dead, it is of no further use than protection against
cold ; so that if the vines are carefully covered from ex-
treme frost, there is no harm in taking it off.

The vines may now be washed over Vrith the prepara-
tion, as advised for last year, and brought down into the
same horizontal position ; and as it is not easy to cover the
Bpurs, if wrapped around with straw, the better way is
to have long, narrow boxes, open at the ends, or to
cover loosely with marsh hay, or evergreen boughs. Let
the house remain open through the winter, excepting in
stormy, wet, or very severe frosty weather, and shut up
the doors at night, to prevent rats or mice from getting in,
as they will gnaw the bark, and do much mischief. It is
a good plan to keep a cat inside.

A week or two previous to the leaves falling, fork over
the borders carefully, both outside and inside ; by doing
it at this time, any small rootlets which may be unavoid-
ably broken will have time to heal up before winter sets
in. When severe weather is apprehended, cover over tho
whole surface with three or four inches of good stable ma-
nure, and add an additional layer of litter or leaves of about
the same depth to prevent the frost from entering, and make
" assurance doubly sure."

As the general routine of this season's practice will ap-
ply to all others, so far as the Cold Grapery is concerned,
it is useless to follow this part of the subject further, than
by stating (as we are treating of a set of vines in the first
bearing), that the average crop may be doubled next year,
according to robustness and health, which will admit of
ten to fourteen pounds of grapes being taken off each, pro
viding all are healthy. It is well to observe the progress
of any which do not keep pace with the rest, and where
there is a want of vigor, to ease accordingly, by not allow-

76 THE GRAPE.

ing tliem to cany so mucli fruit as the stronger ones. A
much larger weight than the above might be left to ripen
under some circumstances, but. as a general rule, it wouk
not be advisable, where permanent prosperity is desired.
What is mentioned is easily attainable, and nothing is
advised that I have not practically found to succeed as
described. In pruning in the fall of the third season there
is some dififetrruce, which will be found fully described In
the chapter rw p-urd'^g'

CHAPTER VII.

THE EARLY GRAPERY, Oil FORCINQ
HOUSE.

When the gardener aspires to the high attainment of
modifying or improving landscape, he ought to possess the
marvellous ideality of the poet, and should be acquainted
with those nice perceptions of light and shade that the
most sensitive painter is endowed with ; but when his
abilities are applied to the forcing of the grape, it may be
said that he puts his best practical talent and observing
faculties in the most elevated position. It is true that
there are many details of another character which require
as much skill, and they may be as successfully carried
out, but the popularity of this justly esteemed fruit eclipses
everything else, and he looks with feelings of enthusiastic
pride upon the crop, as he views the fine clusters hanging
from his thrifty vines.

Those who are satisfied to have ripe grapes by the mid-
dle or latter end of June, need incur no very extraordinary
expense, but whoever would require the same at the be-
ginning of May, must expect to swallow dear morsels, and
there are not many, excepting those who have wealth at
command that will attempt it. There is, however, a grow-
ing desire to enjoy the luxury, and increased encourage-
ment is given to the commercial cultivator in the higher
prices that are now to be obtained. May we hope that this
encouragement will progress, and that, although it has not
hitherto been sufficient, yet it may become so great ns to

(77)

78 THE GRAPE.

bring a larger supply into market. Ilowever energetic
our most scientific I'ruit-growers may be, and in this they
arQ, to say the least of it, on a par with any other profes-
sion, yet it cannot be expected, that they will supply an
article which will not meet with some profit. To this they
are entitled by the standard of reward which is given to
other attendants upon refinement, and why should there
be a lack in this instance, for those who set a dish of lus-
cious, tempting grapes before their guests at so early a
period, not only show their own hospitality to the invited,
but also pay a compliment to scientific horticulture, give
a stimulus to the exertions of the skilful practitioner, and
encourage the development of that important contributor
to the country's wealth, Pomology. It has become fashion-
able to display a handsome arrangement of flowers on the
festive board at a time when every blade of vegetation
seems withered by the frigid blast ; no expense is here
spared, and why should it not be as much desired, to have
an equally rare representation of fruit 1 Let Pomona and
Flora meet on equal terms at our entertainments, recognize
each alike, and we shall prove that we can appreciate all
parts of the garden which the all wise Designer of the
universe has committed to our care and keeping, and which
he has commanded us to improve.

When very early forcing is desirable, it ought never to
be attempted with plants that have not been previously
subjected more or less to the same process. If the vines
are young, they may, in the first year of bearing, be for-
warded somewhat, and in the next year they will be in
a fit state to be worked early. With older plants the case
is somewhat different, particularly if they be spur-pruned,
for there is a greater tendency to burst the buds ; still,
even in this case, it ^y^n'e better if they had been forwarded
the season previous. It is often argued that the continual

'^'

THE EARLY GRAPERY OR FORCING HOUSE. 79

forcing of the same Ftock weakens, and eventually wears
Dut the plant, in consequence of wliicli it is best to alter-
nate ; to a certain extent we may admit, that there is some
truth in this, but not so much as some would seem to
think ; if the borders were to be kept warm, and the roots
attended to with the same care as the tops, there would
not be so many examples of early imbecility to complain
of. True, all may be done that ingenuity can invent, and
yet the exact growing temperature of summer will not
be obtained — artificial heat is not so stimulating as that of
the sun, but in our cloudless clime, even in the winter
time, there is much bright and clear weather, which con-
siderably assists our action, and if not quite so favorable
as we could wish, it is sufficiently so to enable us, with
good management and proper conveniences, to so far suc-
ceed that a house of vines will admit of being uninter-
ruptedly forced for many years in succession, and with
far more certainty than the exploded notion of resting.
It is more reasonable, and much more consistent with
nature, that the same periodical action should be allowed
to go on, provided it is not opposed to the peculiar consti-
tution of any particular plant, and in the case before us,
there does not seem to be anything unnatural, unless the
allowing of a greater length of time for the full concentra-
tion of the juices can be called such, and it is well known
that the finest grapes, and most prosperous vines, are to
be found in those countries which have longer and steadier
summers than our own. So that, if all is well done that
ought to be done during the earlier stages of development,
the plants have all the remainder of the summer to mature
their wood from the embryo fruit buds, and prepare for
the more willing start the next season. Of course we may
over-do this like most other things ; as the grape vine,
with the great amount of heat that we have through the

80 THE GRAPE.

Bummer, and tliat wliicli is given in tlie greatest ex-
tremes of forcing, will be subjected to as much if not more
of that element than is to be found in the very hottest
parts of the world, in which regions our present subject
does not thrive; but in the most extreme cases, it is better
to commence anew when nature is so far exhausted as to
be no further remunerative, and as in establishments where
this is required, there are always several houses at work,
there is no difficulty in having the worn-out lot replaced
by another planting.

Where grapes are required so early as above mentioned,
it is necessary that the outside borders should have a share
of attention, and we here take the opportunity of offering
a few general remarks on this head.

If we refer to those localities or climates where vegeta-
tion prospers best, and to the most fruitful regions, we
shall find that there is no great disparity in the average
degree of heat between the atmosphere and the ground
in which the roots of plants exist ; consequently, there is
a reciprocity, and an equal action, or equal quiescence
over all parts. We know likewise from experience, ihat
if the head of any plant were exposed to summer heat,
and the roots in the cold of an ice house, prosperity could
not long continue ; in such a case, if it were positively
seen, we should know the evil results that would follow,
and alter the circumstances accordingly, yet strange to
say, there are some men at the present day, strongly at-
tached to planting the grape vine cutside of the house,
and still stranger, the same persons are mor« particularly
so when forcing is intended ; such men will argue that in
this position, the roots more readily progress through the
outside borders, and that it is indispensably necessary, as
they have seen fine grapes grown in this way. Such logic
is, however, contrary to all true physiological reasoning,

THE EARLY GRAPERY OR FORCING HOUSE. 81

for we all know the benefit of keeping all parts of otlier
plants in an equal temperature, or if lliere is any difference
to be made, a gentle bottom heat under and among the
roots, and also about the lower parts of the stems, con-
duces to healthfulness and success. Why then should the
grape vine be made an exception, for it is subject to and
is governed by the same laws as other parts of the vege-
table kingdom, and the reason why it does not so soon
resist the bad treatment which is so often practised upon
it, is on account of its greater docility of constitution. For
late crops the planting outside is not of so much conse-
quence, as the natural temperature only differs compara-
tively little from the inside, but for early forcing, it is
absolutely requisite that the stems should be in the house,
and if possible, the roots ought to be kept in the same
temperature as the tops. To accomplish this desideratum,
some of the best cultivators in Britain cover over the bor-
ders during winter and spring, with a sufficient depth of fer-
menting manure, and replenish it as the heat decreases ; this
may do well enough where the winters are not severe, but
in such a climate as the Middle and Northern States of
America, the same practice cannot be satisfactorily adopted,
for, owing to the severity of the weather, there would be
no end to labour, and the quantity of material required ;
so that we ought to have recourse to other and more con-
venient means to accomplish the same end, if we wish to
acquire the best results, and endanger as little as possible
the welfare of the plants. We may get along pretty well
by covering over with a good depth of tree leaves, or
other like material, that will arrest the escape of the heat
contained in the soil, and prevent the penetration of cold,
and this will answer well enough when gentle forcing only
is practised, but it is nothing more than a make-shift job
for earlier crops, and answers a very poor purpose. A
1*

82 THE GRAPE.

better substitute, and a mucb more effeci.ual plan, is to
cover tbe border with glazed sashes, or wooden shutters,
and to conduct an extra pipe from the hot-water apparatus,
or a length of flue, which may be conveyed around the
outside, and sunk in a cavity, so that the top may be open,
and even with the surface. During the time when forcing
is going on, the heat may in this way be made to circulate
over the surface, and forms a stratum of warm air within
the chamber made by the covering, which need not to be
elevated more than six inches above thd upper level of
the border, so as to keep the collected heat more im-
mediately near the roots, and by limiting the space to be
heated, prevent waste. Wooden shutters are best, so far
as retaining the heat is concerned, there is likewise no dan-
ger of breakage, but glass sashes have the advantage of
collecting a considerable degree of caloric during sunshine,
and will somewhat counterbalance the loss occasioned by
its conducting properties. No doubt some persons, who
may be disposed to have early grapes, may think such
appurtenances very troublesome and expensive, to which
we would answer, if a thing is worth doing at all, do it
well, for all horticultural products are cheapest when well
attended to, and such a convenience once obtained will
last many years, as it may be removed in the summer sea-
son, and packed away, and the channel in which the out-
side heating apparatus is placed, may at the same time be
covered over, to prevent any unsightly 'appearance, further
than the row of boards or flags, as the top will be level
with the surrounding surface. That good grapes have
been and still will continue to be forced early without such
an appendage is reasonably admitted, but is it not more
in accordance with nature, to supply the roots with warmth
at the same time as the branches, and is there not a greater
probability that success will be more certain, and the yield

THE EARLY GRAPERY OR FORCING HOUSE. 83

comparatively superior, besides the enabling the plants
to go through the various stages of development, and after
concentration, with less injury to the whole body.

As stated above, it is generally conceded that a house
cannot be forced very early, for many years, without the
vines becoming weak and exhausted, consequently many
growers go on the plan of alternating from one house to
another, each, or every other season ; thereby, as they ac-
knowledge, resting the vines. Where all other requisites
are added to good culture, there is no necessity for this,
for, when once a plant has been induced by forcing to
break early, it is afterwards disposed to the same, and it
only requires half the amount of heat to start such a plant
that will be necessary for one that has not been brought
the season previous to the same condition. As to the weak
and slender bearing wood, it is quite reasonable that that
is a consequence of the tops being unduly excited while
the roots are confined in a cold base, and therefore have
not the power to supply the plant with the proper juices
in sufficient quantity for its own development. The best
cultivators are aware of this fact, and the adoption of the
above plan has resulted in the most marked success, and
we have known houses which were forced year after year,
produce heavy crops of fine fruit, when the borders were
covered as advised above. It is not to be expected that
as fine bunches or as large berries can be obtained from
the earliest forcing, but that a good quality may be had
uninterruptedly, is a fact that needs no further demon-
stration.

For the first early crop, the vines ought to be pruned in
October, and if the leaves are not fallen at the time, let
what are still left remain on — for, until they become fully
ripe and change color the structure of the plant is receiv-
ing more matured body. Commence operations the latter

81 THE GRAPE.

part of November, by tying down tlie heads of tbc vines as
before advised, and as it is presumed that the inside borders
have become very dry, give a thorough soaking of water
over the whole interior, wash well into all chinks and cre-
vices of the wood-work to dislodge insects, their eggs, or
larvae; maintain for eight or ten days a night temperature
of 45^, allowing it to rise to 60^ or 65^ with clear sunlight
at the end of this time increase the heat for the next two
weeks to 50^ by night, and 65^ to 70^ by day, with a free
use of the syringe over the vines, and keep a quantity of
evaporating pans on the flues or pipes constantly filled with
water. All artificial heat, excepting the open tank, has a
tendency to dry the air inside forcing houses more rapidly
than that from the sun, and as in the earlier stages of de-
velopment, a damp atmosphere is particularly requisite,
this point cannot be too carefully attended to. According
as the heat is increased, let the moisture correspond —
fancy a warm April morning, and imitate that as near as
possible. The buds will be swelling by this time, and
most likely the weather severe, when care must be used in
ventilating. Our own practice in all plant culture is, not
to admit any bottom air from the front lights through the
winter months, being convinced from repeated experiments
in different ways, and with many plants, that is one of the
most injurious methods that can be resorted to. The
temperature may be sufficiently lowered, and a current of
wholesome air maintained, by letting the heat pass off at
the top ventilators, which it is sure to do from its own re
duced specific gravity, and accordingly as it escapes ther
is a certainty of a fresh supply being drawn in through th
laps of the glass, and other apertures, which occur even
in the tightest constructed houses; depend upon it the
lower or front part of any winter worked house, will at all
times be cool enough, without purposely introducing zt

THE EARLY GRAPERY OR FORCING HOUSE. 8J>

stream of cold air to pass over and among tlie leaves, as
it traverses upwards, and forces the heat out ; most of the
mildew that attacks roses and verbenas in the winter time
is produced by this cause, and if such plants as these suffer,
surely the grape vine must share the same fate. One of
the worst things that we have to deal with in forcing this
fruit is the extreme difference of the outside temperature
from that which is essential for its well-doing inside of the
house ; and particularly during its more easily injured
stages, there are the most frigid blasts to contend against,
and very sudden transitions, from dull or cloudy weather,
to bright sunshine; owing to which it behooves us to study
carefully how we proceed, and imitate as nearly as we can
those peculiarities of natural climate which observation
shows to be conducive to the most healthy development.
This is more particularly mentioned here, because many
persons are prone to take advantage of all the little oppor-
tunities that occur to admit "fresh air," without taking into
consideration these principles in trying to accomplish the
object in view.

So soon as the buds are well burst, the vines may be
tied to the wires in their permanent position, and the heat
very slowly but gradually increased ; if it were possible
to be so exact, about two thirds of a degree per night and
one each day in clear weather would be about an average,
until 65° at night, and 80^ to 90^ by day (according as it
might be cloudy or sunshine) were arrived at. As the
shoots continue to elongate, tie them to the side wires, but
be careful not to commence this operation too soon, as they
are very brittle, and subject to break off at the axil when
young. The bunches by this time will be readily seen and
as the future treatment with regard to fertilization, stop-
ping, thinning, &c., is the same as explained in the last
chapter, there is no occasion for repetition. The greatest

fi6 THE GRAPE.

difference now required between this and the Cold
Grapery, is, in maintaining as nearly as possible the same
growing temperature, which is more simply obtained when
the weather is genial ; and from what explanations are
given, it will only require a little observation on the part
of the cultivator to carry out these instructions.

When the fruit begins to ripen, the front lights may be
opened on soft and mild days, but not otherwise, for any-
thing like a sudden check will injure the color, and stay
the carbonic chemical change which at this time is going
on in the fruit, by which the sugar may more or less
abound, according as this action is encouraged or inter-
cepted. It is also advisable at this exact period, that
the night temperature be kept very carefully up to the
average until the fruit is fully ripe ; a trifle of prolonged
firing more than pays for the small extra quantity of fuel
and labor, by the better sample which is thereby gained.

If the outside borders are covered by glass or shutters
they will require an occasional supply of water, say three
or four times between the period of the fruit setting and
the final swelling, which may be accomplished by lifting
the covers, one by one, for the time being, when the wea-
ther is mild, and never use water which is cold for this or
any other purpose in grape-growing. Have a tank large
enough for all uses situated in some convenient part of
the house, and keep it filled, so that what is applied may
be of an equal temperature, or nearly so with the air.

When the fruit is all well ripened, it is desirable to
keep a part of it for successional use, and the house may
now be freely ventilated during clear and warm weather,
but when fog, damp, or cold prevails, the air ought to be
only partially admitted. There is no occasion to fear mil-
dew in an early forced house, but no advantage is to be
gained by submitting the fruit, or even leaves, at this

THE EARLY GRAPERY OR FORCING HOUSE. 87

stage, to the extreme changes that frequently occur.
7^his free ventilation will, in the course of a week or two,
prepare the leaves for the full and uncontrolled action of
the air, and the house may then be left open night and
day throughout the remainder of the season, and there
will be no further trouble than stopping the too extended
growth, or an occasional thorough syringing over all parts
to check the red spider, thrips, or other insects, the two
first of which become a great pest to early forced vines
when not attended to.

To obtain a second early crop, which may be considered
to be ripe by the middle of June, or early part of July, it
will be necessary to apply fire heat from the beginning
or middle of February, as the case may be ; and as all
the details of management have been heretofore explained,
the same practice, with slight modifications, will be appli-
cable. The annexed journal, which was kept by the
writer, during the progress of a house of this character
last year, giving the temperature inside the house, and
outside in the shade, at sunrise, noon, and ten o'clock at
night — with the current kind of weather, and occasional
remarks, will, perhaps, supply any deficiency that may
have accidentally occurred.

BATE,

INSIDE.

OUTSIDE

WEATHER.

REMARKS.

veb. 3d

40.60.4°

17.22.15

Cloudy, with snow.

House thoroughly cleansed

4iii

41.63.41

16.21.12

Clear.

and the inside borders

5ili

41.65.4-2

18.38.24

Partially cloudy.

well soaked with water.

6ti.

4:3.62.45

12.26.14

Clear.

7lh

43.62.47

14.36.24

Cloudy afternoon.

Forked inside, and covered

8tli

41.61.45

34.48.44

Heavy rain all day

with rutted manure.

9th

47.70.52

35.47.34

Clear.

lOih

48.73.50

33.46.20

"

Syringed regularly over-

lUli

46.76.49

16.21.18

a

head morning and niglit.

121 h

47.71.50

21.32.24

"

13th

49.68.55

36.41.36

Foggy all day.

14lli

51.65.58

36.40,34

15t'.

52.f^6.6'H

34.38.36

(1

16tli

50.65.54

36.41.24

Cloudy till noon.

17ih

51.75.56

20.39.16

Clear.

I8tl^

55.80.58

22.37.32

n

88

THE GRAPE.

DATK.

I\.SIDE.

OUTi^IDE.

WEATHER.

REMARKS.

Feb. 19th

54.74'.5r

ii6.4l.'.'j

Cloudy till noon

20th

56.71.57

26.28.2 ■'

Severe snow storm.

21s

52.74.5b

23.36.22

Storm continued.

22d

60.82.61

28.44.36

Clear.

Grizzly Frontignan begiu to

23d

58.84.5'J

16.V9.I2

Cie;ir. Strong wind.

burst the i^uds.

2411

57.85.60

12.38.30

pKrtially clouded.

2att

58.88.59

20.36.24

v^lear.

White Frontignan and Chas-

2hth

57.69.6u

30.48.44

Cloudy, rain & wind

belas bursting.

27tli

55.79.59

37.45.23

Snow cleai evening

■

28th

59.h5.61

20.36.30

Hazy.

March Isi

60.87.tVi

26.42.30

h'Hriially cloudy.

2d

61. 88. 6-:

32.44.36

Cloudy afternoon.

3d

58.81.6(1

36.47.35

t-oggy morning.

Hamburghs and Tokay burst

4Ui

60.77.6-_'

36.48.41

Slight fog.

ing.

5th

5J.fc3.61

36.42.30

Cloudy morning.

Muscat bursting.

6lh

58.85.60

31.52.29

Clear.

7tli

59.86.6-

■iO 51.34

"

Syringing continued morning

8tli

60.73.60

36.44.38

Foggy all day.

and evening.

9th

59.72.61

37.50.38

lOili

5-. 73. 60

37.4). 40

"

11th

61.80.6V

36.52.32

Clear.

12th

60.84.63

;i2.55.40

"

13lh

61.87.64

41.66.54

((

Tied up Chasselas Fontaine

14th

59.H7.65

43.58.42

Partially cloudy.

bleau.

15lh

61. 88. (15

41.66.45

" "

Tied up Frontignans.

16th

62.90.70

47.76.53

Clear.

" Tokay.

nth

63.89.70

41 7>.48

"

" Ham burghs.

18lhi61.91.e7

-8. 31. 20

Clear, cold wind.

" Muscat.

19lh

62.92.64

22.34.30

u u

20:h

59.87.59

•28.37.17

a u

21s !

60.89.62

21.35.26

u u

22dj50.81.C0

25.36.30

Cioudy. with snow.

23d 161.83.64

31.40.28

Storm till noon.

24tii

59.91.62

28.35.26

Partially cloudy.

25th

60.88.64

•21 (.3 1.26

Cloudy, cold wind.

26th

61.87.62

27.33.26

44 4t

27th

59.87.64

•23.37.24

Clear, cold wind.

28 th

t.0.85.G7

22.35.19

Partially cloudy,

29th

59.89.63

21.38.35

C'>!d wind.

Tied side branches to wires

SOlh

59.80.63

29.38.32

Cloudy, with snow.

as they conlmued to elon-

3IS1

57.74.63

32.37.33

Cloudy, with fog.

gate, stopping the weak-

ApriJ Isi

59.75.62

o3.42.2Q

"

est tour, and the strong-

' 2d

58.86.54

26.40.28

Clear.

est at three leaves abova

3d

59.90.65

2-2.39.27

•'

the bunch ; syringing also

4th

60.83.63

30.51.40

Cloudy.

attended to.

5th

60.91.68

38.58.40

Clear.

6ih

59.92.64

50.77.60

'artially cloudy.

7th

61.93 69

56.76.59

Clear, strong wind.

8th

60.93.68

47.70.46

Clear.

Ham burghs in bloom.

9th

61.95.70

52.80.43

"

10th

60.86.66

41.60.38

~;ioudy.

Chasselas "

lllh

62.93.71

33.61.42

Cloudy, with sleet.

Frontignan '•

12th

61.96.70

32.60.43

Clear.

Muscats "

13th

62 97.67

41.67.42

'lear.

14th

63.86.65

36.42.41

Hazy, heavy snow

Water over-head withheld

15th

61 78.64

32.43.33

and wind at night

and fertilization assisted

16th

60.75.61'

31.36.29

Storm continued.

by jerking the bunches in

17ih 58 74.61

30.35.251

-^lorm continued.

the middle of the day or a

18th 59.85.67

35.59.38

Cloudy morning.

little before :ioon.

19th

60 83.70

36.58.42

Clear

THE EARLY GR-VrERY OR FORCING HOUSE. 89

DATE.

1

I.VSIDK.

OUTBID h:.

WEATHER.

REMARKS.

Uiril 201 li

.3!.86.75

i°).o:.4o

-howers till nuoii.

Water over-head renewed.

•.'l.-l

•)3.90.7t

.4. 6;;:. 44

I'lt'iir.

hut eareiuiiy on aerount

2Jii

:3'.S4.69

o'.!.56.4u

''loudy.

ot danger lioiu '• ru.si. "

2:Jd

■)J.87.7u

42.66.45

Ciouily till noon.

24 1 h

oo.y.i.6T

o6.07.50

-lear.

Commenced to thin Hain-

251 h

04.95.71

43.72.5H

• '

hlirghs

2t;th

o2.96.70

o4.85.K6

u

Do. Cha.*scl!is,

27ih

64.95.68

51.72.4?

"

'* Froiiiiynaus.

28ih

n-2,^l.6-i

40.52.36

Rain all day.

•♦ Tokay.

291 h

)3.82.69

40.56. V

a t.

aoth

oi.88.67

47.74.42

■ioudy.

** Muscat.

tfay ].*t

63.87.C4

44.71.50

Clear.

2d

65. 92. 67 152.79 So

Cioudy afternoon.

Finished Ihinnine and ror.ved

Sil i63.81.ti6|4 ;.t)i.44

Cirar.

over inside bordeff .

4: 1

»i4.79.70|41.5S.o0iCl..uJy & showers.

01, •,

65.88.t;5i4i.6.».55

Partially cioudy.

6li.

64.t)l.tb

43.55.3^

Clear.

Till

6. .92. 6'.

3-'. 64. 44

"

Grapes begining to "stone.

811.

64.92.6t

-il.68.40

"

- 9lh

•J6.88.67

4u. 4.5'.'

"

Kilh

65.89.6fc

5i.8l.5'.)

Partially cloudy.

lali

da. 90. 6^1

55. K 1.60

Hazy.

laii

06.95. 67

68.82.54

C'leHr.

131 1

o5. 92.61

5S,77.61

Foggy morning.

14ili

.i3.88.67

67.79.59

Kog, Willi sliowers.

15lh

61.9U.65

5-J.84.5S

riear.

16tli

•64.97.68

58.84.5

Fogt;y morning.

17th

65.90.65

5 3.73.58

Kog with sliowers

IHih

64.87.70

58.81.59

Foggy.

191 li

63.91.6.

57.81.56

Clear.

20111

o5.87.6t

56.78.58

"

' 21sl

64.86.67

.56.75.57

Cloudy

22d

63.91.65

.6.78.58

Clear.

23d

65.92.66

54.77.54

u

24tl)

62.93. >;5

53.74.54

"

25th

63.84.70

53.70.58

Cloudy.

Water over, head discon-

26th

65.91.66

56.79.58

Clear.

tinued.

27ili

64.93.65

69.. 79. 56

"

Commenced to open lower

2Sih

66.95.76

59.84.66

"

ventilators.

1.9th

64.93.66

54.73.56

"

30th

ii5.90.67

57.71.56

rioudy.

Grizzly Frontignan begin

31s^i

66.91.71

56.72.-58

Clear.

to color.

uiic Isi

64.90.68

47.72.48

Chassclas begin last swell

2d

66.90.61

48.82.54

'«

ing.

3,1

67.91.fi8

57.81.62

u

Water entirely discontinued-

4tt)

66.92.71

59.82.6.'-.

"

5ih

68.61.69

61.89.66

'<■ .--

6th

67.92.68

61.82.63

"

Ham burghs begin to color

71 h

66.90.67

61.78.66

Cloudy afternoon.

Sih

6-<.92.66

62.85.64

Misty till noon.

9lh

65.90 64

60.72.57

Clear.

lOih

':^8.91.70

61.84.64

"

Muscats beg ui to color.

11th

69.92.69

64.S8.6;i

Hazy.

l-Jlh

66.93.66

61. 83. ('4

thunder Storm.

lyih

69.94.65

64.86.63

■•hdwery

14tl.

68.93.67

.•.2.SS.60

rimndri showers.

Iftlh

67.92.68

61.86.66

Showery.

16th

86.91.64

65.81.00

<;iear.

17th

64.92 6:i

60.72.58

Hazy.

18th

65.92.71

37.91.70

Clear.

90

THE GRAPJi:.

DATB

I.VSIDE.

OUTSIDE.

WEATHER.

REMARKS.

June 19tl)

6y.94.6t

65.96.68

Clear.

2011.

72.9J.73

71.95.74

Cut ChasselasFonta'mebleau,

21st

73.93.6.S

71.90.61

Cloudy afternoon.

ripe.

22d

71.92.64

68 72.61

a i»

23cl

65.87.63

60.73.61

Cloudy wiih rain.

Cut "White Frontia:nan.

2411.

60.90.03

57.81.60

Clear.

Cut Grizzly Fronlignan.

25ih

05.91.62

•i8. 77.58

t;

2611.

67.93.69

59.82.G8

Partially cloudy.

27ih

70.97.69

05.98.66

Thunder showers.

Cut Hamburghs.

28ih

68.91.73

68.85.72

n n

Cut Cannon Hall MuscaU

29lh

71.93.68

6ri.86.65

Clear.

Cut Muscat of Alexandria.

30lti{

64.87.71

58.81.70lCloudy with rain.

After this time the house was kept open at all times, excepting during "ery
strong wind?, or severe storm, and an occasional soaking of water was gireu over
the leaves to destroy insects and keep up a healthy actioo.

CHAPTER VIII.

POT CULTURE.

The growing and fruiting of the grape-vine in pots or
tubs is, in some parts of Europe, very mucli practised at
the present day, and some of our best practical men in this
country are in favor of its being more generally adopted.

As this mode requires the most vigilant care, we must
consider the annual amount of labor incurred in watering,
potting, and other attention which is required, besides the
expense of pots or tubs in which to grow the plants, and
also the continual raising of fresh stock. On the other, or
credit side, there is the difference with regard to accom-
modation and conveniences ; pot culture takes up no space
outside the house ; the expense of outer borders, covering,
&c., is avoided ; but there is a yearly item in prepared
compost which only amounts to about the sum that top-
dressings would require — a manure-water tank, or cistern,
is absolutely necessary to supply the vines with nourish-
ment, while growing freely; but this is a thing that ought
to be on every place that pretends to good gardening. As
to house-room, what will produce a given quantity of fruit
by the usual mode, will do the same in pot culture ; and
all things considered, if sufficient care and attention can
be relied on at all times, the latter mode has the prefer-
ence ; still it ought to be borne in mind, that without all
this, a poor sample of watery fruit will be the only reward,
while with it, fine grapes, of good quality, can be realized ;
and, considering the contingencies, it is only advisable to
adopt this system as a first early crop.

(91)

92 THE GRAPE.

If we consider that eacli fruiting plant in this case will
occupy one square yard, wiiich is about an average, a
house twelve feet wide will accommodate three rows, and
adm't room for a patliway ; and allowing forty feet as the
leni^th, there will be house-room for thiity-nine vines,
upon each of which may be ripened six to seven pounds
of grapes, which will make the whole crop from two hun-
dred and thirty to two hundred and seventy pounds
weight. If the vines were planted out three feet apart,
in the usual way, the same house would contain thirteen
plants to the roof, and the same number on the back wall ;
but as the latter will only hold good for two or three
years, on account of shade, or may have been used up by
previous cropping, they can only be put down as a
small set-off against the advantages on the other side.
These thirteen vines, if forced equally early, cannot be
expected to produce more than an average of fifteen
pounds, which will give a total of one hundred and ninety-
five pounds. If the above calculations be correct — and w^e
judge from practical experience in the matter — the Aveight
of produce is in favor of pot culture ; but as we would not
mislead, it is necessary to repeat, that the same quality is
not to be obtained without skill, and the most careful
attention.

There may appear to be an objection to pot culture,
from the general understanding, that when the roots of a
grape-vine are confined in so small a space, it will only
bear one remunerative crop, and is afterwards useless;
also, that a preparatory house Avill be needed for succession
plants ; thus keeping occupied two compartments. As to
the first, it is an error to suppose that a second, or even a
third fruiting, may not be obtained from the same plants,
if the roots are allowed to pass through the bottoms of the
pots into the base beneath, which ought to be made suita'

POT CULTURE. . 9^

ble and fertile for the purpose. Under these cireumstan
ces, and with the addition of liquid manure, there will bo
enough organized matter stored up for another season to
maintain and develop all the next year's requirements
But allowing that only one fruiting could be realized, it is
presumed that the crop would be ripe by the middle of
May at the latest, and either all cut, or fit for removal to
another and cooler apartment ; and as in such case the
plants would not be wanted again, the roots that may have
gone into the base below might be cut off, without any
detriment to the quality of the fruit. The young succes-
sion plants previous to this will have been only in a state
of propagation, and have occupied nc more space or head
room than a tolerably deep hot-bed frame would furnish ;
so that, after the flooring of the house is again forked over,
and a quantity more manure added, this young stock may
be brought in, and established in their permanent position.
Thus will one house, with the exception of a small pit, or
hot-bed, answer all purposes, and will be kept constantly
at work.

Vines for this purpose may be propagated from " eyes *'
in the usual way, by coiling, and by layers — (see Propaga-
tion). When eyes are used, the young plants, after being
well rooted, ought to be encouraged by plenty of pot room,
and a fine genial, growing temperature maintained, similar
to that used for fruiting. The most suitable compost is
the peeling, or upper sw.rd of a gtod pasture, which has
laid together until the grass is dead, but not further de-
composed. Chop this into small pieces with the spade,
add an equal quantity of well decomposed barn-yard ma-
nure, and if there are any clean broken bones to be had,
or, what is the next best substitute, lime-rubbish, mix a
quantity, say one-eighth part, and as much or more of
charcoal lumps. This furnishes an open, porous, yet rich

9-i THE GRAPE.

material, in which the roots will ramify very freely. At
the first move from the striking-pot an ordinarily fertile
soil is best, and the pot may be a quart in measure. As
the young plant continues to progress, and has grown a
foot or eighteen inches in height, it will be safe to remove
into one of a gallon size, using the prepared compost, and
make sure of efficient drainage by throwing over the bot-
tom a couple of inches of crocks, or, still better, pieces of
charcoal ; over this put a portion of the roughest of the
compost, and fill in to near the top with the finer part, after
having placed the plant in its proper place and position.
Be careful not to break the ball of earth, during removal,
when the pot is turned upside down, which may be pre-
vented by giving the upper edge a smart rap on any solid
substance near at hand, and keeping the fingers over the
under surface, so as to receive the wliole as it becomes
liberated. After potting, give a good watering, and as the
stems continue to elongate, tie them up carefully to stakes,
until they have attained the height of seven feet, when
the tops may be pinched off. Throughout tlie season tha
uppermost eyes will continue to push fresh growth, which
ought to be stopped, each time, one leaf above the pre-
vious operation. The object of this is to prevent the
young vines from extending so much growth as would
cause the lower leaves to be shaded, and consequently not
able to elaborate the juices sufficiently to produce matured
buds in the axils, the result of wh'ch is, a deficiency in the
formation of the embryo fruit. If the plants are kept in a
brisk'and moist heat, and properly attended to by syring-
ing and watering of the roots, they will progress fist, and
by the middle of July will be ready to be placed in the
fruiting-pots, which ought to be from three to four gallons,
according to the luxuriance of the vine, or robustness of
the variety. The same process as to potting muat be

POT CULTURE. 95

gone throngh at this as at the last remove, and the same
material used, and particular care should be taken that no
worms, or the larvse of beetles be in the compost. It is a
good plan to use a little caustic powdered lime through
the mass, a short time previous to using, which is sure to
have the desired effect, and is likewise beneficial to the
plant. Throughout the whole summer the same treatment,
with regard to heat, moisture, &c., that is suitable for planted-
out vines will be right for those in pots ; and if the best
management has been observed, at the end of the growing
season, the canes will be well matured, correspondingly
thick, and in a fit state foi* fruiting the next year. In the
fall they may be cut back, the strongest to three feet, and
the weaker ones to two feet six inches above the pot, and
if there be a portion that are not strong enough to bear
fruit, it is best to head them back to the lowest good bud
at the same time. These latter, in the spring following,
may be removed out of the pots, and the soil shaken from
the roots, which ought to be somewhat shortened in, and
the plant again replaced, using fresh compost of the same
kind, with the exception of a small quantity of good, fresh
earth, but only sufficient of this to merely cover the roots,
and keep the richer material from coming in close contact
until the young fibres are emitted. Young, healthy roots
will push into and luxuriate in a base that would destroy
those which are mutilated ; hence the caution.

When the coiling method is adopted (see Propagation,
page 133), the fruiting-sized pot may be used at once,
and the after treatment will be the same as for the others.
This is the lest method for obta'ning stroi^g vines for pot
culture in tlic least possible time, and when tliere is a
surplus supply of canes from other h. uses at pruning time,
tliey may be used to advantage for this purj)ose.

A pol vine, if properly managed, is certainly a pleasing

96

THE GRAPE.

and very pretty object, but much depends upon tlie nicety
of training. To gain this advantage, the plant ought not
to be longer than is actually necessary, and the fruiting
branches should be as near the surface of the pot as is
consistent with securing good plump buds to start from,
which can be mostly gained with a cane of two feet six
inches to three feet long. After it is seen which shoots
will produce the best bunches, choose six or seven which
a:e nearly equidistant from each other, between the top
and bottom, and as they elongate tie them
out horizontally, diverging on all sides
from the stem, which may be very neat-
ly done by fixing a wire trellis, as seen
in fig. 15, inside the pot. This is also ser-
viceable to suspend the shoulders of the
bunches to, and if not made of too heavy
material, is scarcely visible, being decidedly
preferable to a display of wooden supports.
It should, however, be put over the plant
before much growth has progressed, or there -
is danger of breaking the young shoots. rig. 15.

When the plants are to be fruited more than one season,
the double spur method, page 117, is best, as it gives a
greater choice of good buds, — a matter of some conse-
quence Avhen the wood is not over strong, and under these
circumstances the bearing shoots may be cut clean away
so soon as the fruit is cut, which admits the light and sun
to the remaining leaves on the maiden spurs, thereby
enabling them to have full scope, and uninterrupted free-
dom during the after part of the summer. Immediately
after the leaves are fallen is the best time to prune, and
at the same time, the roots that have gone into the soil
below may be cut away, the pots cleaned, and the vines
washed over with tke mixture, page 65, Let all now g(^

POT CULTURE. 97

quietly to rest for a time hy keeping a low temperature
with plenty of air night and day. and only giving enough
water to prevent the roots and branches from shrivelling.
Two or three weeks before commencing afresh, the plants
ought to be carefully turned out of the pots without dis-
turbing the balls, the roots examined, and any decayed
portions cut clean off; at the same time take away a
portion of the outer soil, and after putting a good quantity
of drainage into each clean pot, again place the plant as
before, filling in with some of the before-mentioned com-
post. Before they are again placed in their permanent
situation, let the under base be forked over, and some
more decomposed barn-yard manure added.

"When growth is progressing freely, at all times, from
the showing of the fruit until it is ripe, clear liquid manure
ought to be applied; on this, in a great measure, depends
success, or the best of quality. Each third or fourth supply
of water should be, either diluted drainage from the dung-
hill, or guano dissolved, in the quantity of one ounce to
the gallon, and if these two are alternated it is still better
The remainder of the treatment required is the same ag
for other culture, and if the above directions are observed,
there is no fear of failure.

CHAPTER IX.

THE RETARDINa HOUSE.

The object of the Retarding House is the reverse of
the Early Grapery. In the latter we wish to forward as
much as possible the ripening of the fruit, while in the
former, the intention is to retard it so far as can be done.
It is therefore evident that the two features require very
different management ; in fact, in one, the process really
and truly speaking, if judiciously applied, gives to the
vine the requirement of its own or original constitution,
by the assistance of artificial heat at the time when the
plant is best able to be benefited by it, while the other
has the same applied, only to keep out the frost at mid-
winter, and to create a dry atmosphere when the fruit is
hanging ripe, for the purpose of preserving it.

From what has been previously explained, it will be
readily seen that some difficulty must occur, when Ave are
trying to carry out in cultivation anything that is opposed
to nature, or attempting to thwart her established vitality ;
such becomes true here, for, our intention is to stay as
much as possible that free and brisk action which alone
will ensure the best results, notwithstanding which, as we
have an object in view, and the demands of luxury must
be supplied, our skill is brought into requisition, and to a
certain extent the difficulty is overcome.

The general routine, in this case, will be the endeavor
to keep back the precocity of the fruit by all consistent means
—•one of which is to avoid the very earliest varieties; an

(.98)

THE RETARDING HOUSE. 99

other, secuiiug tlie right aspect of the house, which is fully
explained, page 37. It is also essentially requisite to give
free ventilation, both day and night, excepting in severe
weather, during the whole of the spring months, by which
a cool temperature may be maintained, and the early flow
of the sap prevented. When it is seen that the buds can
be no longer kept from bursting, the house may be closed,
but as it is not advisable to raise so high a temperature in
this, as in the other successions, there ought not to be so
much water applied, because, if it be too liberally supplied
in this counteraction of the natural energy, there would
be too much moisture absorbed from the atmosphere by
the leaves, and from the soil by the roots ; the consequence
of which would be too great a preponderance of fluid
matter, without an equivalent amount of carbonized and
solid material, and hence, a plethoric state of the whole
structure — a liability to disease — want of fertility in the
blossoms — a bad set of inferior berries — and consequently,
poor quality of badly flavored fruit. Water may, how-
ever, be administered with discretion. According as the
growth progresses, as it is more or less active, or the
weather is wet and cold, or dry and hot, so let the water
be given or withheld. When the leaves are fully develop-
ed, the shoots stopped, and the blossoms expanded, syring-
ing may be entirely discontinued, excepting occasionally on
bright m.ornings, for, unless due caution be exercised
during the remainder of the growing season, there is danger
of mildew. This troublesome guest is more likely to
attack the Retarding House than any other, and conse-
quently, greater vigilance is necessary. It is most gener-
ally to be apprehended while the fruit is swelling, and
before the carbonaceous matter has become so far concen-
trated as to be relieved from the greater overplus of*
acidity; and as the secretions of the plants in this house

100 THE GRAPE.

are iu sucli a state, during tlie months of July and August
when the sporules of the fungus are most active, it is very
necessary to keep careful watch, and avoid as much a'
possible all sudden transitions of temperature; do not
allow the house to be closed until it becomes hot, but
admit air freely whenever required; be wary of bottom
drafts, keep the lower ventilators closed in damp weather,
and if such continues for any length of time with a humid
atmosphere, a little artificial heat may be applied for the
time being, with the upper ventilators opened, which will
keep down the thermometer, dry the air, and stay the
progress of the mildew if it be present, or prevent its
germination if not so. Sulphur aught to be liberally
strewed over the floor for the same purpose, and if a small
quantity be thrown on the flue, avoiding the hottest endy or
on any part of the hot water pipes, as the case may be,
there need not be any fear of its ravages extending. An-
other mischief to be expected at times to this crop is,
shrivel and shanking, the best means of avoiding which is
to continue the same regularity of management that has
been observed through the whole progress, and until the
fruit is colored ; after this period there is no danger, and
the house may afterwards be left open constantly, or par-
tially, or entirely closed, as the weather may be wet or
frosty. A portion of the grapes in this house will have to
remain on the vines during the winter, and must be kept
quite dry and free from frost, which makes it necessary to
use a trifle of fire-heat at times, just enough, but not more
than, to answer the purpose; and if the berries were not
well thinned at the proper time, they ought to be further
reduced in number now, so that they may hang loosely,
thereby preventing close contact, and admitting a free
circulation around each.

As the fruit often remains beyond the usual time of

THE RETARDI^'G HOUSE. lOi

pruning, it is well not to make a general rule of cutting
all at once, or leaving tlie vines until the crop is cleared,
but do it so soon as the leaves are turned yellow, or fallen ;
and the whole of the fruit is gathered on each separate
plant, which will enable the operator to accomplish a good
part of this work sooner, and give a portion of the stock
a better chance of the same action that we always find of
service, by a periodical and judicious pruning in all other
instances. This is more strictly applicable where the
spur method is adopted, but is nevertheless to be recom-
mended for the long rod, as the latter offers greater facili-
ties than the former, because there is a less disposition to
break or burst the buds, with a young and strong cane in
early spring, than with spurs ; and as the whole of the
previous bearing shoot is taken away, there is only one
cut exposed to the danger of bleeding ; a subject of some
importance, if the fruit has been kept on the vine until
late. In such case, immediately on removing the branch,
the severed surface should be covered over with a coating
of grafting wax, white lead, or, what is still better, finely
powdered oyster-shells and cheese, worked together into a
thick cement, and a portion rubbed well into the exposed
pores. This, we repeat, ought to be done immediately
after pruning, and all danger of bleeding will be avoided.
It is of little use to attempt to stop the sap after it has
commenced to flow, for there is a propelling power in the
action of a plant at this time that is truly wonderful ; and
although there is not so much injury from the loss of a
portion of the fluid as some persons would have us belie"ve,
still it is better to prevent the waste, for it certainly does
check, to some extent, the full burst of nature, as we have
often satisfactorily proved.

It may be thought, from the preceding caution, and
seeming uncertainty, that the Retarding House ought to be

102 THE GRAPE.

abnndoned ; so it ought, were it not for the desirableness
of having ripe grapes at mid-winter, and before the earliest
house can be made to produce them ; and it certainly is,
these advantages considered, worth a little trouble and
extra care.

In taking a review of the various succession crops here-
tofore treated on, we may now calculate how long it is
possible to have ripe grapes fresh from the vine. The
First Early can be had from the beginning of May, and
will continue to the middle of June, when the Second
Early will be ready, and give a supply until the middle of
August. The Cold Grapery now comes in, and will furnish
a general quantity till the middle of November ; after this,
the Retarding House gives its quota on to the last of Feb-
ruary, which collectively leaves only two months deficient,
or without a supply ; and as there are some kinds, as the
Muscats, Frontignans, and Chasselas, that may be pre-
served by care, and if it is absolutely required, even in
this remaining short period, a far better sample may be
furnished than is to be had from the finest quality of im-
ported raisins; so that, where expense is no object, and
the luxury is demanded, it may be enjoyed without inter-
mission.

If the air of the grapery be kept dry enough, some
grapes will remain good on the vine until they become
raisins ; but it is not convenient at all times to leave them
so, and in such case, those that are to be preserved may
be cut when they can no longer be left When they are
removed, the bunches ought to be carefully examined,
and all injured or decayed berries cut out, and suspended,
the reverse way to that in which they were grown, by
hooked wires fixed to a frame-work, so that each bunch
and berry may hang free from contact, and they will re-
Quire to be kept in a very dry room, partially excluded

THE RETARDING HOUSE. 103

from the light, and where there is enough fire at suitable
times to keep the temperature from 40° to 50*^. A well-
planned fruit-room is all that is needed, and where there
is not such a convenience, the above hints may assist in
directing attention to some other apartment about the
premises that will answer the purpose, and enable the
lover of this ambrosial fruit to enjoy to the fullest extent
this munificent gift of our benevolent Creator.

CHAPTER X
LIST OF VARIETIES.

To begin to individualize, or render a plain exposition
to the uninitiated in grape nomenclature, is a very difficult
affair. As it now stands before the public, it is nothing
more than a heterogeneous jumble of confusion, and the
search after a thoroughly practical understanding of the
matter requires more time, patience, and expense, than
even the enthusiast would be willing to encounter in the
investigation, if he only knew beforehand the maze he
had to travel through. To such an extent have the various
synonymes become multiplied, that the examination of
them shows clearly the ridiculousness of the number, and
the only way of extricating the subject from the tiresome
burden of incongruity, is by making use only of a few that
we know are most familiar in the society in which we live,
and only introducing such kinds as are distinct, or worthy
of cultivation, headed by the most popular name by Avhich
it is known in our midst. It would be no difficilt matter
to introduce and describe some hundred so-called varieties,
but when they were applied for, and obtained, wl>icli they
might be from the various nurseries in our own country
and Europe, the half of them would prove to be merely
duplicates, — nay, we will go further, and aff.ert that not
more than a fourth, from some places, if thus sought after,
will be really distinct; besides, were the eipv^cted variety
to be forthcoming under such circumstancti a gr^dt por-
tion are only novelties and would lead ito chai^riu and

(104)

LIST OF VARIETIES. l05

vexation when they were proved. We take in this case
a utilitarian view of the subject, and would leave the
further action open to those of unlimited means and un-
controlled enthusiasm to go along with their own ftxncy.
They cannot be better employed, and the results of their
labors will be of the same national benefit as is that of
the only theoretical and experimental farmer; good collec
tively, at the expense of the individual, and praiseworthy,
without profit, to the searcher after progressive improve-
ment. It is to the exertions of such laudable persons that
we are indebted for much of our knowledge and gain, and
such deserve more often than they receive the gratitude
of their fellow men and a monument for their patriotism.
Having said thus much, it becomes our duty to keep our
position, and give in the first place a general descriptive
list of the best sorts in cultivation, and select out of the
same those varieties that are adapted to the various pur-
poses treated on.

BLACK OK PUEPLE.

Black Hamburgh, (syn. Hampton Court Vine--
Frankendale.) — Bunches large, compact and well shoul-
dered. Berries large, round, black, flavor full and sweet
The best black grape grown for table use.

Victoria Hamburgh. — Similar to the above when
true ; the berries somewhat larger and very black, and the
bunches more tapering.

Wilmott's Hamburgh. — Bunches very compact, her
ries large, very black, round, appearing (under good
culture) as if hammered on the surface ; a fine grape, but
not quite equal to the first in flavor.

Wilmott's No. 16. — A seedling from Black Hamburgh,
and so like it as scarcely to be distinguished.

Miller's Burgundy, (syn. Miller Grape) — Bunches

5»

t06 THE GRAPE.

short and close, berries roundish oval, black, rather small,
covered Avith a blue bloom, flavor not good until fully
ripe. An early variety of second rate quality for the
grapery, but suitable for out-door culture. The leaves of
this sort are pubescent, hence its name from the white
downy appearance.

Black Cluster, (syn. Black July.) — Bunches small and
clustered ; berries jet black, small, flavor sprightly but
wanting in fullness, one of the very earliest kmds, but not
worth room in the grapery. The leaves of this are free
of the doAvniness ment^ned in the last.

West's St. Peters, (syn. Black Lombardy — Poonah
—Raisin des Carmes.) — Bunches medium size, long, taper-
ing, well shouldered ; berries medium size, oval, very
black, covered with a blue bloom, very sweet and sprightly ;
a fine late sort.

Mitchell's St. Peters. — Similar to the above, but a
handsomer bunch and berry.

Zinfindal. — Bunches long, peculiar in form, being some-
times composed of two shoulders, berries roundish oval,
black, SAveet, but tame, a good hardy sort.

Black Frontignan. (syn. Black Constantia — Black
Frontignac — Muscat noir de Frontignac) — Bunches below
medium size, tapering, small shouldered ; berries not large,
round, black, musky and sweet, a good grape, but bad to
color, and in some houses subject to shank.

Black Prince, (syn. Cambridge Botanic Garden--
Alicant.) — Bunches long, tapering and well shouldered
berries a little above medium size, oval, black, very swee
and sprightly, a first-rate sort.

Scharge's Henling. — Bunches long,' tapering, and
jlustered ; berries small, oval, very black, SAveet and brisk ;
pretty in form, and a seedling from the Burgundy.

Black Tripoli (of Speechley). — Bunches in form like

LIST OF VARIETIES. 107

Ilambiirgli, but rather loose ; berries large, black, flavor
good ; useful as a late grape.

EsPERio.\E. (syn. Cumberland Lodge — Blue Windsor.)
—Bunches large shouldered ; berries medium size, black
with fine bloom ; pretty, but second rate.

Pkixce Albert, (syn. Royal Albert.) — Bunches large,
heavy shouldered, and tapering ; berries medium size
round, black ; flesh solid, sweet and sprightly. This is a
very strong groAver, and shy bearer, except in poor soil,
otherwise it is a first-rate late sort. We are inclined to
think that the Black Barbarossawill prove the same as this.

Black Morocco, (syn. Black Mvscadel.) — Bunches large
and heavy shouldered ; berries large, ovoid, brownish
black when fully ripe, flesh solid and only second quality;
a very late grape, and with fire-heat tolerably good.

Purple Frontignan. (syn. Purple Cons' anlia — Blue
Frcntignan — Voilet Frontignan.) — Bunches long and
tapering with small shoulders ; berries medium size, blue
hlack, flavor slightly musky, and agreeable. This grape
and the true Black Frontignan are so generally mixed up
in difierent collections, as to frequently lead to disputes
in their individual identity ; our own observation inclines
to distinctness of the two sorts, the black scarcely ever
colors further than a brownish jet ; while the purple
assumes a true bluish-black, even with ordinary culture.
The former has also a stronger musky flavor, and will
hang until they become raisins.

Oldaker's St. Peters, (syn. Black St. Peters —
Black Palestine.) — Bunches somewhat like Hamburgh, but
loose, berries rather large, round, black ; flavor sweet ; a
good late grape *but not a very free bearer.

WHITE AND AMBER COLORED.
Chasselas de Fontainebleau. (syn. Chasselas pre-
voce — White Chasselas — Royal Chasselas — Chassclat de

i'j8 THE GRAPE.

Bu7 Sur Aube.) — Bundles tapering, well-sliouldered, me-
dium size ; berries round, medium size, amber-wbite ;
flavor SAveet and full. One of tbe most reliable and
early of wliite grapes, and the very best quality.

Malvasia. (syn. Grove-end Sweet Water — Eirly
White Malvoise.) — Bunches rather below medium size,
small shoulders, tapering ; berries greenish-amber, below
medium size, roundish oval, transparent, very sweet ; a
good early kind.

Golden Chasselas. — Bunches long and tapering; ber-
ries medium size, round, yellowish-amber color; sweet
and sprightly. With fire heat this is a good grape, but in
the Cold Grapery it is often a bad setter, and is at all
times somewhat uncertain.

lloYAL Muscadine. — This grape is often considered to
be the same as Chasselas Fontainebleau, although quite dis-
tinct. The bunch of this variety is much larger, and the
color more inclining to yellow. It is seldom seen true ;
the last named being often substituted for it.

Chasselas MusauE.(syn. Muscat B'anc Hatif—Joslyns
St. Albans.) — Bunches medium size, tapering ; berries
round, flattened on the end ; amber-white, musky, rich,
and very sweet; a free bearer, and one of the finest
grapes in cultivation ; it is, however, very liable to crack,
if not well ventilated, and more than usually subject to
shrivel.

White Gascoine. — Bunches rather large, well-should-
ered, tapering ; berries oval ; white, flavor good. Subject
to crack sometimes in a damp house. A good sort.

Verdelho. (syn. Madeira Wine Grape.) — Bunches ra-
ther small, loose ; berries medium size, oval, yellowish-
green, sweet, and pleasant ; a good variety and vigorous
grower, but not a very free bearer.

White Tokay, (syn. True Tokay — Tokai Blovc.) —

LIST OF VARIETIES. 10^

Bunches long and compact ; berries roundish-oval, mediun.
size, white, sweet, and pleasant ; a fine sort, but subject
to shrivel when growing in a wet border.

White Frontignan. (syn. White Constavtia — Whih.
Frontignac — Muscat Blanc.) — Bunches below medium size
long, small shouldered ; berries medium size, round, ligh»
amber, musky and sweet ; a fine early sort.

Decon's Superb, ( syn. Sahibee. ) — Bunches rathei
large and handsome ; berries large, oval, amber color, ap-
pearing as if frosted over the surface. This is a splendid
looking grape, but of second quality ; and in a cold house
often a bad setter.

White Nice. ( syn. Xeres. ) — Bunches very large, and
many shouldered ; berries medium size, round, amber-
white, sweet, and sherry tasted. A fine sort, and occa-
sionally most extraordinarily large. It has been grown to
nineteen pounds weight, but such bunches are only ex-
ceptions. Many Spaniards to whom we have shown this
grape, recognize it as the one from which sherry wine is
made.

Syrian. — Bunches very large, and heavy shouldered ;
berries large, slightly oval, white and sweet. If we have
at the present time any grape in cultivation which is the
the one brought by spies out of the land of Canaan, this is
the most likely sort. It is always large, and sometimes
very heavy ; a fine late kind.

White Lisbon, (syn. White Hamhurgh — White Portu-
gal.)— Bunches sometimes large shouldered, large and ra-
ther loose, but when well grown very handsome ; berries
oval, white, large, solid ; flavor sweet, but only second
rate. This is the grape that is imported from Europe in
jars. It is a fine sort for the Retarding House, as it keeps
well and ripens late.

PiTMASTON White Cluster. — Bunches medium size.

110 THE GRAPE.

compact ; Lerrles round, white, medium size, sweet, and
good flavored. A fine early sort of the Chasselas class.

Scotch White Cluster. — Very like the above.

Gromier du Cantal. ( syn. Dccandollel) — Bunchea
large, broad, heavy shouldered ; berries large, round, am-
ber colored, blotched with purplish brown, sweet, and
brisk flavored ; very thin skinned ; a good sort for imme-
diate use, but soon spoils.

De LA Palestine. — Bunches much branched, and very
long, often two feet ; shoulders very numerous and long ;
berries below medium size, oval, amber colored, very
sweet. A good late fancy kind, and distinct in appear-
ance.

Dutch Sweet Water, (syn. Pearl Drop — Pareyl
Drwiif.) — Bunches medium size, compact, and well-should-
ered ; in form like Hamburgh ; berries large, round, trans-
parent, white, very sweet, skin thin. A fine early sort,
seldom seen true, the old White Sweet Water being often
substituted.

Muscat of Alexandria.* (syn. WJiite Muscat — Ma-
laga.)— Bunches bandsome, well formed, and large ; ber-
ries large, oval, amber colored, musky, and sweet. Un-
questionably one of the finest grapes in cultivation, but
requires artificial heat, particularly while in bloom.

Cannon Hall Muscat. — Very like the above, but of
more robust growth, and larger berries ; the bunches also
are generally more tapering, and the stamens sixy occasion-
ally seven, in numher.

Muscat of Lunel. — Like the Muscat of Alexandria,
with smaller berries.

Charlesworth Tokay. — Bunches large, long, and
well shouldered ; berries large, roundish oval, amber-
white, rich, vinous, and musky. This is a good variety,
Rnd sometimes mistaken for Muscat of Alexandria, ah

LIST OF VARIETIES. Ill

tlioiigli quite distinct. The foliage of this is more deeply
cut, and not reflexed on the edges.

White Corinth. — Bunches tapering ; berries close set,
small, very pretty, and prolific, a fancy kind.

RED AND TAWNY COLORED.

Red Traminer. — Bunches below medium size, should-
ered and tapering; berries rather small, round, of a rus-
sety-red color ; a good sort. This is one of the best wine
grapes of the Rhine, and suitable in some situations for out-
door culture in our own climate.

Red Ohasselas. (syn. Red Muscadine — Muscadine
Rouge.) — Bunches medium size, shouldered ; berries me-
dium size, round, sweet, and good. This variety is re-
markable for having the berries red from the first, and
afterwards changing to a lighter shade when ripe. The
wood also is of a reddish color.

Rose Chasselas. (syn. Violet Chasselas.) — Bunches
below medium size, shouldered ; berries below medium,
round, rose color, sweet. A good sort.

Austrian Muscat. — Bunches medium size, very com-
pact ; berries closely set, roundish-oval, tawny-red ; skin
thin. This grape is not unlike the Grizzly Frontignan
either in flavor or appearance, but is not so good ; and is
subject to crack, but hangs long after being ripe.

Grizzly Frontignan. (syn. Red Constantia — Grizzly
Frontignac — Muscat Gris.) — Bunches tapering with small
shoulders, below medium size. Berries, medium size,
round, grizzly red, musky, rich and sweet. A fine early
grape, and hangs well after being ripe.

Rrine de Nice. (syn. Queen of Lomhirdy.) — Bunches
very large, tapering, well-shouldered and handsome. Ber-
ries large, oval, irregular on the surface, rose color ; flesh
hard and sweet. A fine late grape, but sometimes a shy

112 THE GRAPE.

bearer if spurred in too clos*:. It may be preserved as
loi/g as the imported White Libbon.

Flame-ccklored Tokay, (syn. Red Lomhardy.) —
Bunches very large, well-shouldered and handsome
berries large, close-set, roundish, pale red, sweet and
sprightly. A fine late grape.*

As most persons will only require to grow the finest
quality, and many have but a limited space, the above
list is reduced to the best twenty, ten, and five (including
80 far as can be a variety of color), as follows : —
COLD GRAPERY,

BEST TWENTY.

Black Hamburgh, White Gascoine,

Willmott's Hamburgh, White Frontignan,

West's St. Peters, White Nice,

Black Prince, Syrian,

Black Frontignan, PitmastonWhite Cluster,

Zinfindal, De la Palestine,

Red Traminer, Bed Muscadine,

Rose Chasselas, Grizzly Frontignan,

Chasselas Fontainebleau, Reine de Nice,

Chasselas Musque, Royal Muscadine.

BEST TEN

Black Hamburgh, Chasselas Fontainebleau,

West's St. Peters, Syrian,

Black Prince, Zinfindal,

White Frontignan, Reine de Nice,

Grizzly Frontignan, Chasselas Musqu6.

BEST PIVE.

Black Hamburgh, Wliite Frontignan,

West's St. Peters, Chasselas FontainebleaiL

Black Prince,

FORCING HOUSE.

BEST TEN.

Cannon Hall Muscat, Chasselas Fontaineblean

♦ To this 1i=t. may safely be added Golden Hamburgh, a new English white grap*
Cf great excellence, and Bowood Muscat, another which oroiaises to be very fine

JJST OF VARIETIES. 113

Muscat of Alexandria, Grizzly Froiitignan,

Black llain burgh, White Frontignan,

Wilhnot's Hamburgh, Chasselas Musque,

Dutch Sweetwater, Black Prince.

BKST FIVE.

Muscat of Alexandria, Grizzly Frontignan,

Black Hamburgh, Black Prince.

Chasselas Fontainebleau,

RETARDING HOUSE.

BEST TEN.

Black Hamburgh, White Lisbon,

Black Prince, Muscat of Alexandria,

West's St. Peters, Willmot's Hamburgh,

Prince Albert, Syrian,

Eeine de Nice, Flame-colored Tokay.

BEST FIVE.

Black Hamburgh, Muscat of Alexandria,

West's St. Peters, White Lisbon.

Reine de Nice,

POT CULTURE.

BEST FIVE.

Black Hamburgh, White Frontignan,

Chasselas Fontainebleau, Black Prince.
Grizzly Frontignan,

Where profit and quality combined are the objects
lu view. Black Hamburgh and Chasselas Fontainebleau in
the Cold Grapery, and Muscat of Alexandria added in
the Forcing House, will take precedence ; and we may
here remark, that whatever care may be taken in impreg-
riatiiig the Muscats, where artificial heat is not used, the
stt will be uncertain, owing to a deficiency of heat and
clear weather, in some seasons, at blooming time. Th*»

114 THE GRAPE.

whole class requires more heat and a drier atmosphere
than is necessary for any other sort ; they flourish best
in countries which are often too arid and hot for tlie suc-
cessful cultivation of grapes generally. In southern Spain
and the warm and dry climates of Lima, and similar locali-
ties on the western coast of South America, they luxuriate
without much care or attention, and produce most abun-
dant crops of the finest fruit. Under cultivation, a dry
atmosphere during the period of rest, and likewise at the
time of the blossoms setting for fruit, is almost indispen-
sably requisite ; lacking this in the first place, the embryo
flowers do not receive sufficient concentration, and a defi-
ciency of the same in the latter instance when they ex-
pand, they have not power enough to impregnate healthily.
By artificially fertilizing with other varieties, or even by
their own pollen, this enfeebled condition is somewhat as-
sisted. Wiiere the musky-flavored grapes are preferred, and
fire heat is not to be applied, the want may be made up by
planting an extra quantity of Frontignans and Chasselas
MusquG, which is of the same class, and one of the finest
quality — quite equal in this respect to the Muscats. All
of these have the good property of hanging long aftei
being ripe, and are also early varieties. The Chasselas
Musque is faulty from its liability to crack when swelling
for ripening, but a free ventilation at the time, and a drier
atmosphere, will considerably counteract this evil, and
when once ripe, it will continue good for a long time.

To give a long list of native grapes would be only
penning a useless array of words, considering there are
So few thrit arc of steiling merit. Of late years several
euterprisii g cultivators have done something to improve
t];e present quality by raising seedlings, among whom are
Mr. Longworth, of Cincinnatti, Dr. Underbill, of Croton
Point, and others ; but so far there is not much progress

LIST OF VARIETIES. 115

to be reported. Two of the best we have at present are
Isabella and Catawba, both of which are only natural
seedlin<:^s ; the former from the species Labrusca, and
the latter, which is the ftimous Wine Grape of the West,
most likely an accidental cross between Labrusca and
Vulpina. What a wide field is there here for experiment.
If we have advanced no further than what nature has
done for us, surely we are only on the first step towards
that perfection whicli the energy of the country can ac-
complish. The necessity of a thing- has only to be seen,
when ingenuity is set to work to bring about the desired
ultimatum; and now we see this necessity, there is no
doubt but ere long we shall have as great a variety with
good quality for all purposes in the indigenous kinds, as
are at present found in the foreign. This is no over-
stretched notion, and we are confident that it both can and
will be eventually accomplished. The American Pomolo-
gical Society at their last meeting cam.e to the conclusion
that the only sorts worthy of being considered best were
Isabella, Catawba, and Diana, with a recommendation
for further trial of the Concord.* That meeting contained
the best knowledge throughout the country, and our own
opinion is in strict accordance with their decision ; conse-
quently it may be better to let this short notice serve for
the present, with the hope that the desirable addenda will
be forthcoming hereafter; and for this reason there is a
chapter in its proper place on the raising of new kinds.

As the Scuppernong class is found to flourish the best
in the Southern States, the few varieties contained in it
may be added f )r that region ; but these, like all the rest,
are capable of great improvement; and it is very likely
that if the best varieties of California and southern Texas
be ciossed upon them, a fine race would be obtained.

*We mny confiaently accept, now, Ddaioare, Rebecca^ Hartford Prolific (for the
Norlli), Clara and, perhaps, Anna. Maay others romain to be better proved that
are highly spoken of.

CHAPTER XI.

PRUNINQ AND TRAINING

There are various methods of pruning and training tlie
grape-vine, and each method has had its supporters. Good
crops also have been produced by many of them, under
skilful hands, and no doubt will continue to be. The fact
is, the grape-vine is so productive, and fruits so fieely,
even with very ordinary treatment, that bad indeed must
be the case when it ceases to 3 ield its luscious sweets.
Yet while so submissive under ill usage, and grateful, as it
were, for a common existence, like other creatures of na-
ture's higher organization, its expansive powers will become
contracted, and the tractable disposition rendered stubborn,
by long continued abuse ; in which case, the quality of the
fruit is deteriorated, the bunches are small, or the flavor
inferior ; and as pruning has something to do with this,
particularly the small bunches, it may be well to explain
the different modes that are practised, and state the va-
rious results obtained by them.

Although it is best to allow the gi*ape-vine, like all other
fruits, to judiciously and periodically extend the superfi-
cial surface of the leaves and branches, our arrangements
and conveniences do not always admit of this desirable
consummation being carried out. Such being the case, it
behooves us, under the circumstances, not to distort nature
any more than we can avoid. In accordance with these
views, first, is mentioned the plan we generally adopt.

Supposing that we have got a cane of the fiist summer's
growth, cut it back, in length accoiding to thickness,
if very strong — say six feet, or only middling so, to five,
(116)

PRUNING AND TKAINING. 117

or even four feet ; next commence at the top, leave three
eyes, the upper one for the future leader, and the two
others for the top pair of branches ; cut out the next two,
leave the two beneath, and continue on so to within
uiffhteen inches of the soil, below which remove all to the
bottom, as there is no use in having any fruit lower down.
During the next summer these eyes will, if well attended
to, form side spurs, which in their turn will have to be cut
back to two, three, or even four buds, as they may be
plump, or well developed. Now, when these buds begin
to grow, we ought to have a shoot from each of them, and
as only one bunch ought to be allowed to remain on each
base, the other shoots will appear so far superfluous. Ee-
tain the one at the base, or nearest to the main cane, and
likewise that one above it which shows the best bunch ;
rub off* the others, and pinch out the fruit from the lower,
and also all, excepting the best formed bunch on the upper
one. As they progress in growth, take out the top of that
which has fruit on, three or four leaves above the bunch,
and let the other extend until it has unfolded seven oi
eight leaves ; then stop it. Bring the bearing branchef
down, nearly horizontal, to the upright cane, and tie them
to the side-wires ; train the others at an oblique angle, and
tie them likewise. They will now appear as seen in Fig.
IG. a is the base shoot, and h the fruiting one. As both
continue to push forth fresh growth from
time to time through the summer, nip out
'to one leaf above where last stopped*
After the fruit is cut, and the wood be-
comes ripe, say two or three weeks before
the leaves fall, go over and cut [b) clean
away to the base of («), which leaves the
spurs for fruiting the next year as near to
the main cane as if the close cut method

118 THE GRAPE.

bad been adopted, with the advantage of having spurs
which have not been burdened with fruit, and also the
probability of future finer bunches, for the most prominent
and well-formed buds always bring the best shaped and
largest clusters, and this action gives a better chance of
obtaining such. There is no fear of not being able to get
shoots from the base, if properly managed; for, in most
cases, adventitious buds, and generally more than will be
wanted, are developed, and have to be rubbed off. When
these side spurs have accumulated, and extend along the
whole length to the top of the house, the leader may be
cut off above the top pair, and if proper care has been
taken in breaking the buds, as previously advised, there
will be a uniform strength over the whole vine. If the
canes have been previously disbudded, there is no danger
of over-crowding, as the following year the bearing branch
is brought down to the same position as that of last season,
and the other one trained more upright into the vacant
space.

All trees have a natural tendency to push the strongest
growth to the top and extreme ends, particularly while
young and vigorous ; and if the side branches are very
closely cut away periodically, the sap is directed more
strongly upwards, the lateral force is reduced in a cor-
responding ratio, and the aide branches are rendered
weaker. This is often seen in the grape-vine, and is as
often a cause of complaint. Now, the above method very
much counteracts this evil, as a greater quantity of leaves
are encouraged from each individual base, and, of course,
a greater draw of fluid is produced into the side branches,
which, when once established, remains permanent ; and,
so long as the same causes are in existence, the flow ia
equalized, the side spurs correspondingly stronger, the
buds become plumper, and the bunches larger. To still

PliUXING AND TRAINING. 119

furtlier encoui'cage this Lateral action, it is not advisable to
take out the overphis buds in the fall, at the same time
tliat the cane is disbudded, for the simple reason that tlie
plants are collecting food, and filling up the seemingly
hitent parts through the winter, excepting when the whole
structure is frozen, and the channels of absorption thereby
stopped ; consequently, all the buds receive a due share.
Although a portion of this stored up nutriment is wasted,
by allowing the useless bnds to expand, we gain the ad-
vantage of encouraging a greater flow into the side branches
until the time when the unfolding leaves are enabled to
keep up the action.

Another method of spur-pruning, and the one most gen-
erally practised, is to allow the cane to extend itself up-
wards each season, as above described, until it reaches the
top, and retain the side spurs closer and alternately
arranged along the cane ; each year resting, or not allow-
ing to bear, every alternate spur, and when pruning, the
cutting of all the spurs close down to one eye ; or leaving
those for fruiting the following season somewhat longer,
and in the next fall cutting the same spur close into the
cane ; the object being to keep the side branches " at
home." Fig. 17 shows the cane when pruned. Very
good crops are often produced in this way, with Fig. 17,
otherwise good treatment ; but in the first instance
the bunches are generally small, and although in
the latter this is for a few years obviated, still there
is the disadvantage of having to cut back to the
main stem, and of trusting entirely to the buds which
may thus be prompted to push forth. This cl ;se
cutting weakens down the lateral force of the plant's
energy, in a short time the spurs become weak, and
the whole cane has eventually to be cut down ; by
v/hich, to say the least of it, one year's crop is lost. Wo

120 THE GRAPE.

are aware, that in thus speaking of tins walking-stick
mode of pruning, we are going in the face of many good
grape-growers ; but the fact of a thing being generally
" fashionable," is no criterion of its excellence. Nature's
action in all these matters ought to be our guide, and the
more we adapt ourselves to her laws, the more permanent
will be our success.

Sometimes the long-rod method is practised. In this
case, the first summer the cane is trained up as in the
former modes, only left somewhat longer when pruned,
and this suffered to bear a full crop the next season; after
which it is cut clean out to one eye from the bottom ; an-
other cane having been taken up during the same time
from its base, to afterAvards take the place of the one last
fruited, and so on. By this plan, which is seen in Fig. IS,
rig. 18. fine fruit may be obtained, as tlie bunches ema-
nate from strong buds, which, if they have
been previously well ripened, throw off hand-
some and large clusters ; but there is the evil
of having to cut off, at one fell swoop, the half
of the plant, leaving no perennial structural base,
excepting the very lowest stump. This whole-
sale and oft-repeated cutting keeps the plant
in a continual state of excitement, which is sure
to eventually show itself in premature weak-
ness. It is sometimes useful to resort to this plan, where
the upright training surface is contracted, as in narrow or
short raftered pits ; but here it may be modified by ex-
tending and training the leading shoots horizontally a
liUle further each season, and taking upright canes from
these main branches, at the distance of two feet apart ; in
which case, each alternate upright may be cut out to an
eye, after bearing, and another shoot be taken up the next
Beason, to fruit in its turn, as shown in Fig 19. As tht

PiiUNING AND TRAINING.

121

' ,

f .

\ \ ^

' ,

*

' \

\

\

> ■>' V

'

' ' ^

,l

fe=^fa^

t^

^iy

^

torizontal shoots eloiij^ate, the Fig. 19.

vines which are right and left
of them may be taken out.

AVe may also make an ex-
ception in favor of the last
mentioned, with regard to vine-
yard culture, for it is the best
of all others for the purpose,
on account of the facility with which the canes can be tied
to the supports, and the permanently less quantity of
plants that it is necessary to congregate on a given space.
And here we have evidence to prove the above mentioned
assertions respecting the shortening of vitality ; for a
plantation trained on the single cane short-cut plan, and
every season subjected to this severe lopping, requires
occasional renewing. So much is this the case in some
parts of Europe, that a fresh plantation of vi.nes has to be
made every three or four years. Now, as this can be pre-
vented with so little expense or trouble, and there is a
more than counterbalancing advantage arising from the
system, it is well, in this particular instance, to follow
what best answers the purpose in view.

The renewal method is adopted by some, which is as
follows : The one year old cane is cut back to about half
the length of the rafter, and allowed to bear the next
season ; while fruiting, the top growth is conducted per-
pendicularly, and at the proper time is pruned off at the
top of the house ; during the same summer, another cane
is taken up from the bottom, and on one side, which is cut
back one-half, as the other one was the previous year.
The next season, this new cane is allowed to fruit, and also
the upper part of the first one, the side spurs on the
lower half having been cut out. Thus, there is a full
crop, only each half is on two separate canes. l')i^
6

122

THE GRAPE.

youngest one is now sufifered to grow, and is in its tui*n
cut oif at the top, another brought up from the bottom,
and the oldest cut clear out. Fig. 20 represents the three
separate canes in their respective
stages. Here we have the fruit always
borne on young and vigorous wood,
which generally produces the finest
fruit ; no spurring is required, and
there is the advantage of a large bulk
of leaves and branches, the former of
which affords nourishment; and pro-
motes the maturity of the roots ; but
the tops require somewhat more side
room, and the vines ought to be planted
a little further apart than is necessary
where spurring is resorted to. Where
a vine is allotted only a certain space, this is one of the
best methods of training, but it is unsightly, and if the
same advantages can be gained otherwise, and at the same
time beauty in appearance, it is certainly desirable to in-
sure both. Now the first described mode accomplishes
this object in the grapery and also retains a larger amount
of solid structure in the form of a strong permanent stem,
through which can flow an ample supply of sap to the
leayes, and receive back the food, elaborated by them,
down to the roots in a healthy way, and without any un-
due excitement to the whole organization.

But the best of all plans, and also the most natural is,
to extend the head somewhat each season, so that finally,
one vine may cover a large surface. Nature works by
certain fixed laws which man cannot alter, and any long
continued attempt to force her to swerve from, her own
course, is sure to end in final failure and disappointment.
It cannot be denied, that much success is obtained by

PRUNING AND TRAINING. 123

modes of ciiltiv.ation wliicli would appear to speak to the
contrary, but observe the ultimate results patiently, with
care and without prejudice, and all these abuses will tell
their own woful tale.

One of the causes why the grape vine so soon wears
out, as it is generally considered to do, is produced by
such close pruning as we yearly subject it to — the volume
of the plants is increased for three or four years at first,
and afterwards only allowed the same extent of surface.
There is no other fruit-bearing plant that would continue
to prosper long with this treatment ; take for example a
peach or an apple, allow either the one or the other to
produce a long straight stem of twelve or fifteen feet, and
cut in the side branches to an eye, never suffering it any
further extension but what is produced in the summer —
again to be cut out — and it would, after a few years' constant
excitement, dwindle down to a mere stump, and finally die
out. If the grape-vine does not show the same so readily,
it is only because of its extremely tenacious constitutional
powers, for the same law governs both, and both alike
must sooner or later arrive at the same imbecile condition.

As a vine, if extended over a great space, would only
admit of a limited number being grown, it becomes neces-
sary to explain how this may be accomplished ; and like-
wise how, during the interval, the usual crop may be
secured. In planting, place in the centre of the intended
row a vine of known good qualities; at intervals of about
twelve feet plant others of equal merit, and fill up the
vacancies with sorts as fancy may dictate, so that eacli
one may stand about three feet apart from the next.
During the first two seasons train all up as usual ; so far
we have elongated the surface upwards, and the canes
will be near the top of the house. In pruning the second
fall, as there are side spurs on the lower half of the canes

12i

THE GHAPE.

in the liouse, or on the whole length m the vineyard, cut
these in to about three eyes. Bear each other vine the
next year as heavy as it is thought advisable, so as U
secure the fruit ripening and coloring well ; ease the otliers
in like proportion, which will give vigor and assist them
afterwards. When the fruit is cut on those vines wliicli
have borne the heaviest crop take them out, and when
pruning the others leave the side branches about a foot
long, which will fill up the vacant spaces. Next year
train these branches horizontally, and in the fall following,
spur them as advised above, Avith the upright cane, and at
the same time leave another length on the end of each.
As these side branches continue to be lengthened and fill
up more space, bear those vines on each side of them some-
what heavier, and afterwards take them out. In the course
of a few years each vine will appear as seen in Fig. 21.

Fig. 21.

By this system it will readily be seen that few varieties
can be grown in a limited space, but quality always gives
the most permanent satisfaction, and where variety is
required it may be had in the first instance and quality
secured afterwards, if care is taken in planting good sorts
in the right places at the commencement.

It may be thought by some persons that so few vine?

PRUNING AND TRAINING. 125

are not able to carry a full crop in a given space; ecvci
fear that, for if there is sufficient surface of well-ripened
wood, the roots in good order, and the expansion judiciously
accumulated, the quantity of f'uit may he gradually in-
creased until a ton weight may be taken from off a single
vine, and that without injury, as is proved by some which
are now in existence, and are known to be over two hun-
dred years old, among which may be mentioned the large
Hamburgh at Hampton Court, near London, that has
frequently borne the above weight in a season. Show
me an instance where the same longevity and continued
fruitfulness has been gained by the ordinary \A'alkiug
stick confining to one cane or short-cut method, and then
I will believe that nature can alter her course, and that
man's simple ideas can control the wonderful action of his
Creator's intelligence.

That judicious shortening in at the right season, and under
proper circumstances, is beneficial has been clearly d")mon-
strated ; we know that it tends to give vigorous and
healthy growth; both theory and practice tell us so. Ey
it we gain a stronger propelling power from the roots,
without reducing their volume, or enfeebling their energy.
But to cut annually^ so free growing a 'plant as the grape-
vine to a mere stump, is, to say the least of it, a barbarous
mutilation of God s providence^ and is sure to end in prema-
ture weakness, sappy and papery leaves, spindling ill-ripen-
ed wood, and barrenness. By this method, last described,
the roots have ample space to luxuriate in ; one vine would
eventua]]}'^ occupy and fill a whole border, which usually
has to accommodate a great number, and as the head has
a corresponding expansion, according to the requirements
of the subject, a greater certainty of permanence and
future vitality is gained. As a matter of profit it is tlie
most beneficial, for there is surely more lastnig gain where

126 THE GRAPE.

a house or even a vineyard will continue to yield a good
crop for two or three generations, than when the plantii:g,
making fresh borders, &c., has to be renewed every ten,
or at most fifteen years.

In making these remarks we would not wish to be
severe, for there are many persons so situated by pe-
culiar circumstances as to prevent them from carrying
out the most natural or best methods of culture, even
though they may be aware of the error of their present
practice, yet there are others who have popular and prac-
tical prejudices to overcome, before they will be enabled
to see the desirableness of asking themselves a few
physiological questions, or take the trouble to find the
answers in nature's voluminous folios. May we hope that
these set notions and dogmas may speedily vanish, from
this free country at least, where the mutual and physical
industry of man is unfettered, and where we may become
a pattern to the world, in good culture, if not in artificial
grandeur.

We cannot let the present part of the subject pass by
without a few remarks on summer pruning, and as it may
be thought that this is merely a repetition of former words,
we plead the importance of the matter for the introduc-
tion. It has often been advised, and that, too, by some of
the best cultivators, to stop the bearing shoots at an eye,
or in some instances two eyes above the bunch, and like-
wise to do the same with the young cane when it has
elongated to the top of the rafter, or the upright support ;
also to pinch out all laterals as they are produced, thereby
making the operation into a rule. There is no doubt that
many conscientiously believe such a system to be judi-
cious, and because their crops are satisfactory to themselves,
they continue on the same practice without further con-
sideration ; but this does not close up the avenue for free

PRUNING AND TKAINING. 127

discussion, neither does it prove that it is the ultimatum
of perfection. If we pursue the investigation of this mat-
ter in a physiological manner, we are led to understand
that all summer pruning tends to lessen the vigor, and
cripple the energy of all plants ; and practical experience,
combined with observation, proves the fact. Arguing
from this point, we may be accused of advocating no sum-
mer pruning at all, to which we say, " not guilty." If
the greatest extension of branches and corresponding
roots, or bulk of timber were the object, then the less
pruning the better, but the present position is a consider-
ation of circumstances and adaptability, independent, to a
certain extent, of nature's action ; the object being to
coax her to accommodate herself to our conveniences ; and
as the grape vine is one of the most easily trained of her
family, we have, in this case, a partial control. We ought
then, to consider what we are doing, and how far we are
acting in unison with what are known to be established
laws, and to infringe too far upon these is sure to produce
evil. This or that man's dogmatical opinion must cer-
tainly fail unless it be based upon this indisputable cer-
tainty,— where is the use of following this-should-be,
or that ought-to-be, unless somewhat in accordance with
these natural demands. Yet we find a prolific and luxu-
riant plant, such as the grape-vine is, stubbed in, cut
close, and sheared like a convict, — we were near saying
shaved too, for the pinching back to one eye above the
fruit is nearly tantamount to that close operation. The
reason given for this peculiar treatment is, that the fruit,
and also the plant, is strengthened by it. How would it
strengthen one's toes by cutting off a finger, supposing
another would grow in its place ; or would an animal pro-
duce the finer offspring if the body were to be mutilat
It is jus* possible that an amount of gangrene would

128 THE GRAPE.

the consequ&nce ; but as to truly healthful action, it is
possible that we should be none the gainers. Perhaps
this kind of analogy may be thought a very vulgar way
of explaining what might be shown in more delicate
words; but if coarse, the true meaning is purposely exhi^
bited, to show up the ridiculousness of curtailing nature.
As stated above, the subject is a matter of circumstances,
we have to do with a family of plants that would occupy
a great volume of surface, yet we wish to have a large
number, comparatively speaking, in a small space, and the
best we can do is, not to weaken down natural energy
more than there is occasion for. Pruning, properly per-
formed, and in the right season, is certainly of great ser-
vice ; we find it so practically, its good effects are every-
where to be seen when it is adopted ; but so far and
no further is it advisable. If proof be required of the
injury that may be done by too close stopping, let any
one try the experiment of pinching in closely the side
shoots of a part of his vines, and leave the others several
joints longer, and he will find at the end of the growing
season that those which were left the longest are better
ripened than the shorter ones, providing the light has had
equal influence on both. If the vines are no further
apart than three feet, the distance will allow a shoot on
each side of fifteen to eighteen inches, upon which there
may be from seven to eight leaves ; and allowing the
fruit to be on the second or third joint, there will still
remain four or five leaves above it, each of which will do
its duty in elaborating the crude juices, and assimilating
the carbonic acid absorbed, thereby adding to the bulk
and solidity of the whole structure ; and if so, increasing
the amount and greater firmness of the roots ; for, accord-
ing to the amount and action of the foliage under favora-
ble influences, so are the underground extremities encour-

PRUNING AND TRAINING. 129

Aged. As stated elsewliere, tlie grape vine is a plant of
great longevity ; notwithstanding which, with the prac-
tice of some vignercnsy it is considered to be worn out in
a ic\Y years, and fresh plantations have to be made period-
ically. This may in vineyard culture answer the particu-
lar purposes of the cultivator, and by the method of only
allowing a few feet of bearing surface to each individual,
a great amount of fruit, and suitable quality for his pur>
pose, may be obtained from a limited extent of land em-
ployed. Here is evidence that too much curtailing of
the plant's natural disposition shortens life, and weakens
down the constitution to such an extent as to make it
worthless, comparatively speaking, in a very short time.
Considering that there is not a very great expense in
replanting a vineyard, the means may be said to justify
the end, but when we come to the outlay incurred in
erecting glass houses, preparing borders, &c., it behoove?
us to think well how we can pay back a permanent inte
rest on the capital invested, and if there be any method
that will keep a house of vines in healthy bearing for a
long time without the requirement of renewal, surely ii
must be wisdom to adopt it. If the grape vine is a long
liver when allowed to extend, and soon worn out ii kept
in small compass, is it not reasonable, if we wish perma-
nency, that all the available space that we have in the
superficial area of a house should be covered with healthy
leaves, in order the better to concentrate and store up the
food for future development, and add each year a fresh
layer of well organized alburnum to the previously exist-
iiig sound vascular tissue ? If we take further into account
the glutted preiDarations that are often compounded for
vinery borders, and the consequently immense enrouiage-
ment given to luxuriant growth, it really appears fcutpris-
ing that such close cutting in as is generally praciised

6*

130 THE GRAPE.

does not either kill, or cause disease in less time than is
the case, and it is just possible that the present ravages of
mildew in Europe have been accelerated by this cause
Such are the writer's ideas upon the subject, and as the
present object is to enlighten the learner, they are submit-
ted to approval or censure, as each practical and suc-
cessful cultivator may think fit, with the conscientious
belief that such is more becoming the present age of pro
gress, and if followed up would be the means of prolong-
ing the healthfulness and fruitfulness of the grape-vine.

CHAPTER XII.

: PROPAGATION AND THE RAISING OF
NEW KINDS.

The grape-vine may be propagated from Eyes, Cut-
tings, Layers, Seed, and by Grafting,

Eyes. — An Eye is a short portion of a branch having
only one bud, Fig. 22. This method is most commonly
made use of for increasing the exotic varieties, and is
equally applicable to the natives; it is the best for all
purposes, where there is the convenience of a glass frame
or hot-house. The process is as follows : rig^^22.

Any time from the beginning of Febru-
ary to the last of March take well-
ripened yearling branches, and cut into
as many pieces as there are buds, so
that one remain to each portion ; reduce the wood above
and below, by a slanting cut, diverging from the bud on
both ends ; have in readiness as many pots, propagating
pans, or shallow boxes with holes in the bottom, as may
be needed, throw in an inch or two of small lumps of
charcoal or broken crocks j over this, place a layer of
moss, and fill up with soil, of loose but moderately fertile
texture ; make it somewhat solid, and press the prepared
buds into it, an inch apart, so that the tops be level with
the surface; place them in a gentle hot-bed, or a house
where a night temperature of ^5° to 60** is maintained ;
keep the earth moist, but not too wet, as the young shoots
when they begin to protrude are liable to be injured by

(181)

132 ' THE GRAPE.

dampness. For the same reason, if a hot-bed be us^d;
great care should be taken that there is no accumulation
of rank steam, or condensed moisture. In five or six
weeks they will have elongated an inch or two above the
soil, Avhen they may be potted oflf singly into half-pint
pots, and still retained in the same or a similar situation.
"When they have grown some five or six inches more, these
pots will be filled with roots, and the plants may be trans-
ferred into those of quart size, which will be sufficient for
the season, if only stocky plants for future planting be
required, but when the intention is to make strong plants
for fruiting next year in pots, it will be requisite to re-
move from time to time, according as they progress, into
gallons and two gallons. The shoots will also need to be
tied to stakes as they continue to grow. If healthy stock
is wanted it will be necessary to place the plants, during
the summer, in the same growing temperature as is recom-
mended for fruiting vines, and by care and encouragement
these young canes may be extended to twelve or fifteen
feet long ; it is however desirable that the tops should be
nipped out at the height of about six feet, which will pre-
vent crowding, and allow the light to act more freely on
the lower leaves, which in their turn mature the buds on
each axil. As stated above, this strong growth is not neces-
sary, unless for pot culture; for a small well-ripened vine,
with plenty of healthy roots, is quite as good for perma
nent planting, and with after good management will ur-ake
headway equal to a stronger one.

Cuttings. — -A cutting as generally understood is a length
of the last season's cane containing several buds. Fig. 23.
To propagate by this plan proceed as follows : So soon as
the ground is in good working order after the breaking up
of winter, dig, and break up well with the spade, a sufficient
plot for the quantiiy intended ; string a line across one

riiOPAGATION AND llAIblNG.

183

ericl, cut a trencli about six inches deep, prepare the cut-
tings as shown above, and phice each six inches apart
against the bank so formed ; leave one or two eyes ^^^^ ^
above ground, press the soil tight to them, and
afterwards level with the spade; eighteen inches
from this row open another trench, and so proceed
nntil all is done. If the season should prove dry-
before the roots have got sufficient hold, it is ad-
visable to use water; and if such be required do
not dribble, but give enough to soak down, tliat the
earth may be moistened below. One application in
this way will do more good than a dozen sprink-
lings, which only bake the ground on the surftxce,
without any benefit. This method is the most economical,
and all things considered, it is the best for the hardy
kinds, for which alone it is suitable.

Another mode of increase by cuttings, technically
termed coiling is to take a length of cane, say from three
to four feet fong, ^nd coil the lower part around on the
inside of a large pot, which is afterwards filled up with
earth (such as is recommended for
fruiting in pot culture), leaving a few
eyes above the top, Fig. 24. This is
of service only when strong and vigor-
ous plants are wanted in the least pos-
sible time for pot culture, and when
there are any long prunings to spare,
it is the best method that can be
adopted, but it is only in such cases
that it is of any use.

Lnyers are branches of the plant
bent down, a part of each being covered with earth w) Rq
the base remains attached, Fig. 25. These layers tlirow
out roots and may be afterwards cut off from the mother

FJpr. 24.

134

THE GRAPE.

plant. The most common process is to merely cover with
soil, leaving the ends protruding, any time from the fall
of the leaf until the rise of the sap, but as there is a
" best" in all things, so in this, and we may as well show
it. Early in the summer, when the young growth has

Fig. 26.

attained to the length of six or eight inches, bring down
the branch intended to be laid, cover the M'hole length to
the depth of three inches, and peg it down, leaving the
tops that were the previous laterals above the soil; during
the summer roots will be emitted at every joint, and of
course there will be as many plants as there are shoots.
The same operation may be performed any time up to the
middle of July, but if sooner done, a better stock of good
and well-rooted plants will be the result. It sometimes so
happens, that an increase is wanted from some favorite or
new variety that may be in bearing and
trained in the grapery, without having
to wait so long as the more ordinary
methods require. In such case, one or
more of the side branches may be drawn
through the bottom of a flower-pot, the
hole of which has been made large for
the purpose, or the pot may be divided
into halves and again fixed together by
a copper wire ; at the same time a sharp
knife should be passed round the stem

PROPAGATION AND FAISING. 135

inside so as to sever tlie bark, but no deeper, which will
facilitate the emission of roots : the pot may be then filled
up with earth, and suspended in a very convenient posi-
tion, and if kept moist will soon be filled with roots ; after
which it may be cut away and treated as other stock.
Fig. 26 is an example of this kind of layering.

Grafting can be only considered as just coming within
the scope of propagation, the object being not so much to
increase the number of plants, as the changing or one
kind on to the root or stock of another. It is generally
adopted to obtain a superior or more favorite variety than
the one that is occupying some particular spot, and has
been recommended as capable of increasing the hardi-
ness of the future plant, providing that the stock is of
that nature ; the theory being, that a hardy sort imparts
a portion of its character to the new parts. There is
no doubt some advantage gained by the process, but
it must not be put down for certain that a native root
will so far alter the constitution of the exotic as to
make it prosper out of doors under all circumstances,
and in all situations where the former would thrive, all
that will or can be gained is the greater hardihood of the
roots, which may in some cases give a more steady or un-
interrupted flow to the branches, and consequently a better
chance of resisting that bane to the exotic grape-vine, the
excessive climatic changes. It is a method that is of no
service excepting for the above reasons, as young and
healthy plants will answer a better purpose generally.

As the grape-vine is subject to " bleed," if cut early in
the season, and does not do so after the leaves are ex-
panded, it is necessary to defer the operation until growth
has somewhat progressed ; or, rather, it gives the greater
certainty of success. And as the same heat that excites
the stock into activity will also start the intended sciciis

136 THE GRAPE.

it is requisite to keep the latter in a cool but dair.p place.
Where there is an ice-house, they may be laid on the
inside upon the covering, or, in want of that convenience,
they should be buried beneath the soil, in as cool a place
as can be found. There is no occasion to enter into a sci-
entific disquisition on grafting, or to explain the various
methods of doing it ; our object is gained in this case, if
the best be illustrated. Cleft grafting is, perhaps, the most
suitable, while it is also the most simple, and is as follows :
When the shoots have grown some eight or ten inches, cut
off the head close to the ground, smooth over the top, and
with a knife or sharp chisel cleave down the stem about
two inches, put in a wedge to keep it open for the time
being, and cut the graft to fit, making a notch where it
rests upon the stock, to keep it firm ; if two be fixed in
the same Avay, only each on opposite sides, there will be
a double chance of certainty, when, if both take, the
weakest may be cut out. Care must be used in fixing the
graft, that the bark unites with that of the stock, for on
this nice point all success depends. Take out the Avedge,
and wrap around with soft woollen yarn, or bast-mat ;
cover over the top of the stock, and to a little below the
graft, with grafting-wax, or moistened clay ; afterwards
heap over the whole a portion of soil, so as to form a small
mound, leaving the top of the graft uncovered. Fig. 27
shows (a) the scion, (b) the stock,
and (c) both, after the operation.

Another way, termed Side-Graft-
ing (fig. 28), is to cut in a slant-
ing direction, one-third through the
stock, and prepare the graft to fit
wedge-form into it, care being taken
that the bark of both fits exactly on one side ; the tying,

PROPAGATION AND RAISING. 1^7

&c„ is tlie same <is in the former case. This is somtimcs
useful when it is desirable to preserve the head, and ^-^^ 23.
perhaps the fruit on it, for the season ; but the ^
newly-introduced part doos not often get strong ||
during the time, and, on the whole, there is no ad-
vantage gained.

Inarching is sometimes practised (fig. 29), which is
simply the uniting of two branches that are each
attached to neighboring plants. "Where it is intended ||j
the union is to be made, the bark, and also a thin ^
slice of the wood (in thickness according to the size
of the intended new sort) must be cut away so that the
bark on both sides will unite ; the two are then brought
together, tied, &c., as in the former cases -p.„ 29

of grafting. There is no advantage in this
plan, excepting that it may be performed
any time during the summer. It is, how-
ever, best to do it immediately after the
full expansion of the first leaves, which
better insures a perfect adhesion. When
it is thought that the union is complete,
which ought to be in five or six weeks,
the lower, part of the introduced branch
may be cut half through, and left so
while attached to its own parent. In another week, or
ten days, it may be entirely severed, and again left a sim-
ilar length of time, Avhen the head of the dishonored kind
may be cut away, and the new one allowed to take its
place. Without these latter precautions, there is great
danger of failure, as the sap may not have begun to flow
freely into the new parts. It should also be observed,
that in all the examples, when it is seen that the ligatures
begin to grip the bark, from the increase of growth, they

138 THE GRAPE.

should be loosened a trifle, and in a week or two after-
wards they may be removed entirely.

Seed. — The preparation for seed, and the after manage-
ment, may be exactly the same as for eyes ; so there is
no occasion to give any directions on this head, further
than by stating that it should not be buried deeper than
half an inch. If there is not the convenience of a hot-bed
or hot-house, the hardy kinds may be sown in the begin-
ning of April, in a cold frame, or, where there is no glass
accommodation at all, they may be made, with care, to
vegetate in the open ground, but not with the same cer-
tainty.

The Raising of New Kinds. — ^New or different varieties
of any plant are generally raised from seed ; in fact, it
may be said that all permanent ones are so. It occasion
ally, though very rarely, so happens, that a plant will pro-
duce a sport in some particular branch, which, if budded
or grafted on to other stocks of the same genus, will con-
tinue to produce the like from which they were taken.
The Tottenham Park Muscat Grape, and l^^'ern-leaved
Beech, are examples of this kind ; but such sports are not
always to be depended on, as they are apt to again pro-
duce offshoots like the original parent ; consequently we
cannot say that they are really permanent, although the
return backwards only occasionally occurs ; still it is pos-
sible, and sometimes is the case.

In varieties raised from seed we very rarely find a change,
either in the original plant, or any buds or branches which
may be taken :^rom it or from them in after years. Not-
withstanding which, there are some species so prone to
sport from the seed, that no two will be alike, or exactly
similar to the parent from which they were obtained, and
the grape-vine is among this class. Without stopping to
discuss the c[uestion of what is a species, it may be stated

PROPAGATION AND RAISING. 189

that, when once the apparent fixedness of natural distinct-
ive cliaracters is broken, either by accidental or purposed
hybridization, there is no end to the variety that may be
produced. So prolific has this variation been in the exotic
kinds, that some European catalogues enumerate several
hundred sorts ; and although many of these are merely
duplicates of others, there are still left enough to prove
the case. In our country the same is being verified by
the many new kinds which are at present being intro-
duced to public notice, and as the community become
more awake to the improvement that may be made, we
shall have a long array of names, containing in the aggre-
gate all sorts, from fine and good, down to middling and
bad ; and, in connection with this, we may look forward to
a far superior quality to any we now possess ; for there is
nothing to prevent a progressive movement, or ultimately
attaining to the same perfection which the exotics at
present possess, with the additional property of a hardy
constitution, that will prosper in the open air, without the
great drawback of mildew, to which the foreign kinds are
so subject, and which consequently renders them worth-
less for out-door culture, with very few exceptions. So
important is this matter as a national profit, that the sub-
ject cannot be forwarded or discussed too much. Our
own vineyards are now supplying a great part of the home
demand ; and if the present grape-blight of Europe con-
tinues much longer, the making of wine, and the cultiva-
tion of the grape, will be so much curtailed there, that it
is not unlikely we may become a large exporting nation
in this commodity. Taking this view of the subject, all
those who may be attempting to improve this valuable
boon may be considered as public benefactors, and we in-
troduce what experience we possess for the guidance of
those who have not investigated the subject.

140 THE GRAPE.

Physiological theory teaches, aiicl practical experience
proves to us, that the progeny of a plant, the flowers of
whicli have heen fertilized by another, is more likely to
retain the constitution and habit of the maternal side,
while any peculiarities as to flower and fruits of the father
are introduced into the same body ; consequently, the
native kind should be fertilized by the pollen of the exotic,
wlien a hardy vine Avould most probably be the product,
with an approach to the fruit of the foreign sort. So de-
cided is this fact, that the opeiator may predict tolerably
closely what the result will be ; and it is as sure as a
demonstrated fact, that we can produce, by care and per-
severance, by this course, a tribe of grapes suitable for
every purpose of the vigneron, and also satisfactory to the
palate of the most fastidious epicure.

For producing a fine table grape, perhaps no better
varieties can be chosen than Isabella, or Concord, fertilized
with Black Hamburgh, for a black ; and Diana, crossed
with Chasselas Fontainebleau, for a light-colored class.
For this purpose, it is not advisable to make use of the
Frontignans, or Muscats, for the natives have already too
much of the musky flavor, and by introducing the sweet-
ness of the Hamburgh and Chasselas, we shall be most
likely to produce a Muscat flavor, with the size or beauty
of berry, and form of bunch of tlie two paternal kinds.
Beside the production of a fine class of grapes for dessert,
this is likely to lead to a quality most suitable for the
sweeter and mild-tasted wines ; but for those of rougher
and fuller flavor, the probability is that the Frontignans
would answer the purpose better. This is, however, only
conjecture, and must be left to futurity for proof. To
insure success, some care and attention is necessary ; more
will be accomplished with these, from a dozen seedlings,
than by a thousand without it. The plants to be operated

PROPAGATION AND RAISING. 141

upon should be in robust health, neither having at any
time shown symptoms of mildew, and the flowers of both
s(!lected from fine and well-formed bunches. The opera-
tion of fertilizing is also a delicate one, and there is some
difficulty in getting the two sorts to bloom at the same
time ; for the exotic will, almost without exception, have
to be under glass; and the native, on account of producing
hardiness, should be planted outside. A temporary glas^
frame to forward the latter would be of service, and the
former might be retarded by excluding the light until th(
buds burst, and keeping the head down in a cold house
The most convenient and certain way is to treat one oi
more plants of the native kinds as advised for pot cultme,
and, when the plants are strong enough, to introduce them
into a Cold Grapery early in the season, so as to have
them in blossom as near as possible to the time of the
others which are in the same apartment ; and if attention
be paid to the applying of liquid manure, there will not
need be any doubt of the fruit lacking nourishment.
When the hardy sort begins to open its flowers, the sta-
mens should be immediately cut out, and the stigma fer-
tilized by the pollen from the anthers of the exotic; indeed
it is necessary, if the greatest surety is intended, that the
corolla (which fits like a little cap over the parts, and rolls
up from the bottom, instead of, as in most flowers, expand-
ing at the top) should be carefully removed before its
natural liberation, for the anthers generally burst just pre-
vious to being exposed ; and as they encircle the stigma,
and are immediately over it, impregnation may have then
taken place, which will most likely frustrate all hopes; for
any hermaphrodite plant, providing all the sexual organ:/
are perfect, will be more readily fertilized by its own tlian
another's pollen. While the mother plant is in bloom, care
must be taken to keep oflP insects. This may be done, by

Ii2 THE GRAPE.

tying: a fine net-work bag over the bnncli, and, if tliere be
a suitable place on the premises for its healthy action, the
vine ought to be removed away from any other plant or
the same family which may be in bloom at the same time,
for the pollen is a very subtle substance, and a proximity
to others might destroy all success.

Independent of this cross-breeding with the exotics, which
may, in the fruit, sooner bring about the desired result, we
may arrive at the same point of excellence with our own
natives by a little patience and perseverance, without any
danger of injuring the constitutional habits of the progeny ;
consequently this course is the best to pursue, and will ulti-
mately give the most desired results.

CHAPTER XIII

DISEASES.

Mildew. — Nearly all attempts to cultivate the exotic
grape-vine in the open air, in the United States, have
ended in total failure and disappointment. In a few soli-
tary instances, and under peculiar circumstances, where
the excessive changes have been counteracted by shelter
or otherwise, a partial success has been obtained, but the
climate of the whole eastern and middle parts of the Union,
is too vajiable for its easily checked, though vigorous
constitution, and by which the vital energy is impaired at
the time of greatest activity — when mildew in its various
forms completes the works of destruction. This mildew
is the growth of fungoid vegetation, the seeds of which
aie so small in many kinds as to be invisible to tbe naked
eye. Tbere are two kinds which are most troublesome to
the grape-vine — one, which we presume to be the Oldium
Tuikeri, that is at present devastating the vineyards of
Europe ; and the other a Bolry/is, or some analogous
genus. The first indication of the former is shown by
the leaves having brown spots* upon them, and which
"permeate quite through the tissue. Afterwards, are seen
Bmall white patches of tlie soft and delicate fungus at-
tached to tlie under side of the leaf, and which, if not
speedily destroyed, will soon extend to the fruit stalks,
penetrate to the berries by the rhizoma or spawn, and
make them in appearance like a diseased potato in the
tirst stage of infection, stopping their growth, and reuder-

(143)

144 THE GRAPE.

ing tliem useless ; tlie leaves also will fall off after a short
time, and the whole plant become seriously injured.
These white patches are the fructification of the parasite;
when viewed under the microscope, there is exhibited a
multitudinous congregation of little mushroom-looking sub-
stances, and if suddenly jerked, the tiny sporules may be
seen detached, and floating in the atmosphere, so minute
and subtle, and in such countless numbers, that it is not
unreasonable to suppose (beside the immediate develop-
ment and rapid vegetation of thousands of them under
favorable influences) many are absorbed by the stomata or
breathing pores on the under surface of the leaves, and
conveyed into the interior, simply by the descending
movement of the elaborated sap, which is afterwards con-
verted into woody-fibre, and in its turn becom.es the
organized medium by which the ascending sap, in the fol-
lowing spring, flows with greater velocity to the unfolding
leaves. The secreted sporules may then be re-conducted
upwards, and conveyed onwards to the foliage, and there
remain dormant, until the favorable circiimstajices occur
for their germination, when they spring into renewed life,
and speedily produce another crop of seeds for a future
generation. This kind of mildew seldom does any mis-
chief after the growth approaches towards ripeness, or the
fruit is in the last swell, and as it generally begins to
appear about the early part of July, during damp and
close weather, those plants which have been more or less
forwarded by artificial heat are almost free from its attacks ;
but in the Cold Grapery or Retarding House we should be
on our guard, and when storms or damp weather occurs,
strew sulphur on the floor of the house, in the proportion
of one pound to each fifteen or twenty square-yards, and
withhold water for the time being, keeping the house quite
close, if cloudy, and allowing the temperature to rise some-

DISEASES. 145

what higher for two or three days. This will cause tin*
sulphur to throw off fumes, which are readily perceptible
to the smell, and will check the further progress of the
pa{*t if present, or prevent its appearance if not so. We
have used all the supposed remedies that we could collect
a knowledge of, by way of experiment, without being
able to discover anything more than temporary relief,
while the fumes of sulphur, as above recommended, have
never failed to immediately check, and if water be with-
held during the continuance, to finally overcome it. There
veed be 7io fear of sulphur doing harm to tJie foliage ; i^o
long as ig7iition does net take plice, it may he used with
confidence. Herein lies the secret. If allowed to burn,
chemical action goes on, and sulphurous acid is produced,
which in its then gaseous form will speedily destroy all
foliage with which it comes in contact.

The other kind [Botrytis ?) appears like a fine and
delicate hoary mouldiness, and vegetates along the young
wood and tender growth of the stem, the leaf stalks, over
the surface of the berries, and U2>per side of the leaves ;
enveloping and covering the parts so as to prevent the
further progress of the fruit, cause the leaves to fall, and
the branches to cease growing. It is not, as in the
previous example, confined to late crops, but will attack
those started early also, and is often most prevalent when
too dry and cold a tem.perature has been allowed, more
particularly if a strong moist heat has been previously
kept up ; cold drafts will increase the tendency — ^hence
great caution is necessary in ventilating, or the producing
of that atmospheric peculiarity W'hicli takes place when
the moisture that is in solution in the atmosphere becomes
condensed by a sudden transition to a low^er temperature.
Observation will show that those forms of fungus w^hich at-
tack pens, gooReberries, &c, — and the kind now spoken of is
7

146 THE GRAPE.

similiar in structure, if not positively of the same genus —
are most prevalent when a slow steady under current cf
dry air is passing in hot weather, which, by exciting t<^
an extraordinary degree of evaporation, leaves a damp
clamminess upon the surface of all plants by drawing out a
portion of their collected juices, which then becomes food
for the sporules to vegetate upon. This may be considered
somewhat similar to the bottom draft in a hot-house — a
very different thing, by the way, to a healthy and free
ventilation overhead, where the air is made to circulate
evenly over the whole cubic bulk, without that continual
stream from small apertures below. In our present case,
moisture combined with heat will counteract the fungus,
and it may be effectually got rid of by syringing with
water, in which a portion of sulphur is mixed; one pound
of the latter will be enough for ten or fifteen gallons of the
former. If the fruit be approaching to maturity, this kind
of application will disfigure it, and the same purpose may
be as effectually gained by dusting a small quantity on
the heating apparatus where it will not ignite ; or if a cold
house, by strewing it over the floor in the same quantity
as before advised.

The peculiar circumstances under which parasitical
fungoids luxuriate, are wonderfully dependent on the state
of the atmosphere. This is demonstrated, not only by the
different sorts of grape mildew, but in all others.

All plants indeed are not alike susceptible to these
influences. The constitution of various plants may be able
to withstand the effects of atmospheric changes without
revulsion or excessive flow of the sap, and therefore they
will not afford those precise requirements which favor the
germination of the fungi. But as a general rule like causes
produce like effects.

It follows, then, if the above observations are correct,

DISEASES. 147

tliat the main preventive of mildew is to keep the plants
in a steady and healthy action, not only by supply in j^ a
due proportion of food moisture and heat according to their
constitutional requirements, but by preventing sudden
changes in the atmosphere with which they are sur-
rounded, and particularly avoiding cold drafts in the lower
parts of the house. Heat accelerates the circulation, and
if the whole bulk of the air is uniformly heated, the circu-
lation will be equal in its action and distribution in every
part of the plant.

In our practice, bottom air is not admitted until the fruit
begins to change color. Although the above remarks may
not harmonize with the opinions of others, an extensive
experience has convinced us of their correctness.

We have then the whole matter in a " nutshell.''
During the time when the vines are growing freely, keep
up a strong steady heat, avoid damp or cold drafts, and
south and east winds during cloudy weather or storms ;
keep the house closed in such cases.

Be careful that the house is not cuddenly heated up
when the sun breaks out, afterward rc'gulate the moisture
according to the external atmospher^?. Close early in the
evening, and open early in the morning. Observe and
remember that to counteract the eflects of sudden changes
in the atmosphere is the great dcLiideratum. The best of
us may sometimes find our utmcst skill tested, but a per-
severance in the course here marked out with close
attention will overcome all difficulties, and we will be
amply repaid for all our trouble.

Many think that when mildew makes its appearance
sulphur is the only antidote, without anything further than
merely dusting the affected parts, or streAving a p )rtion
over the floor. From our previous remarks it will be seen,
that this will sometimes be sufficient, but it is not merely

148 THE GRAPE.

tlie immediate contact, in all cases, that produces the
remedial effect. The further spread of the Bofrytis ?
may be arrested on particular spots where the sulphur is
applied, but it will not suffice for the Oldium, for we have
seen it push through a thick coating after the rpplication
had been repeated for several days together, and we would
more forcibly repeat that the fumes emanating from sul-
phur exposed to a high tem.perature, are the only radical
cure that we have yet discovered.

There are several other sorts of fungi which are seen at
times in the grapery, hut which are not any further de-
structive than by extending a mouldiness to the ripe fruit,
or decaying leaves or branches, which may be prevented
by circulating a free current of air through the house, or
if that be not practicable, as sometimes happens with late
crops or the Retarding House, by lighting a sIoav fire, and
lifting the top ventilators. This will dry up the moisture,
and be beneficial to the vines, by assisting them to ripen
better. These last mentioned fungi may be considered as
epiphytical, for they feed iTpon a tendency to decay in the
body upon which they vegetate ; while the first and dan-
gerous kinds are strictly parasites, which germinate and
progress upon the living substance, and destroy the or
ganization of all parts in their course.

Shrivel and Shank. — These two terms may be considered
as one disease, only in a more modified or virulent form.
The difference being, that when a bunch of grapes is said
to sliank, the whole or a part of it dies off; while in shrivel,
the footstalks of the berries, individually, are only at-
tacked. The first stage is seen as brown spots on one
side of the stem of the bunch, or the footstalk of the berrj'-,
and which, if not cut away, soon encircles the whole, the
consequence being a certain stop to the circulation, and
worthlessness to all parts below. From the earliest time

DISEASES. 149

there lias not been anything in grape culture that has ex-
cited more discussion than this disease, and the most
eminent and best cultivators have come to diametrically
opposite conclusions, according as it has shown itself to
their individual observation. In som'e houses this is the
greatest bugbear that the grape grower has to encounter ;
for after the anxiety of the season appears to be past, and
he is looking with pleasing satisfaction on his success, his
hopes are suddenly blighted by the instantaneous appear-
ance of this pest. His crop is just arriving at maturity,
the berries are fast coloring, well swelled up, and to all
appearance safe, when upon close examination, they are
found to have become flaccid, the footstalks of the berries
or a part of the stems of the bunches are turned brown
and withered, in consequence of which the fruit receives
no more nourishment, the carbonizing action is arrested,
and the affected berries remain intensely sour. One find
ing that his borders are not well drained, and the roots
partly rotted, and seeing no other cause, comes, and with
reason, to the conclusion that it is the effect of this, and
in his honest belief heralds his opinion to the world ; an-
other takes an opposite inference, for his borders are too
dry ; a third discovers that his house is badly constructed
as regards the means of ventilation, or that it is situated
too low, producing a stagnant, or unwholesome damp at-
mosphere ; a fourth states as positively that the keeping
of tlie house closed too late in the morning, and the sun's
rays striking directly upon the wet or damp footstalks
produces the disease ; a fifth, that it arises from extremes
of heat between the roots and the tops ; a sixth, that sud-
den changes of temperature in the house are the cause, and
in this way we might go on enumerating opinions respect-
ing the nuisance. It is a common saying that, "when
doctors disagree, who is to decide ;" a very sensible ques-

150 THE GRAPE.

tion, certainly, in this case. After careful study — now foi
the last twenty-five years — we are led to believe, that
anything which arrests, or interferes with the healthful
action of the vine at this particular stage will be likely to
produce this disease. If we argue from the analogy
between the animal and vegetable kingdoms, we know
that as immediately before parturition there is a very great
stress upon the constitution, requiring all the strength
with which the animal is endowed to carry through
nature's action — so with plants. As proof of this, when
the fruit is taking its last swell, the size in many kinds
increases one-third in a very short time, and in some
instances with such rapidity that the tender skin is not
strong enough to withstand the inward pressure, but
bursts open. It is most likely that the change by chemical
expansion has something to do with this, and if the plant
is not enabled to perform all its functions uninterruptedly,
the stalks of the fruit, which are the conductors of the re-
quired fluids, do not receive a full supply of the needful
elements, but perish from the extraordinary demand that is
made upon them for the time being, for we find them only
afi'ected in this particular manner at the period mentioned.
If this argument be correct, it will be well, when there is
a disposition toward the disease, for all grape-growers to
ascertain where the deficiency is most likely to be, and
remedy it accordingly, without any reference to dogmati-
cal opinions.

In the course of this work, an endeavor has been made
to explain all the necessary appliances and conveniences
required for successful grape culture, and as in our own
practice we are very little troubled in this respect, the
advice is given with some confidence, and a belief that if
fully carried out the same results will accompany the
operations of others. When the injury is done, the only

DISEASES. 151

alternative that remains is to cut away tlie parts injured,
and remove tliem immediately from the house, and insure
the prevention of any contamination to those which are
healthy.

Dry Rot in the Roots. The upper indications of this
disease are flaccidity, and deficiency of solidity, accom-
panied by a sickly yellowish color of the foliage, weak
growth of the branches and paucity of fruit ; a prolonged
increase of the malady will at length cause the vine to die,
and that most commonly about the time when the ben-ies
are lialf grown. All this arises from the want of nourish-
ment from the roots, which, if examined, will be found to
be rotted, and often covered by a mouldiness or fungus.
There is no doubt but the primitive cause of this affection
is a check to constitutional vigor ; and extremely close
summer pruning has much to do with it, as it prevents
the plant from equalizing its expansive and centralizing
powers, thereby keeping up a perpetual excitement through
the vessels, which at last brings on an enfeebled condition.
When a vine becomes affected in this way the best plan
is to take it out, renew the soil in the immediate vicinity,
and afterwards plant another in the same place, for it is
seldom that the diseased one does any more good.

The roots sometimes become rotted from other causes,
such as being too deep under the surface, or when the
borders are very retentive of moisture, or composed of
over-much undecomposed materials, &c. For this there
is a remedy if taken in time, and the best thing to be done
is to thoroughly drain, if that only is the mischief, but if
it be from the other sources mentioned, the roots will re-
quire to be lifted, and the operation needs great care ; so
soon as the leaves fall, proceed to uncover them; trace
each one, and as they are respectively liberated lay them
in a straight length until all are secured, after which they

152 THE GRAPE.

ouglit to be wrapped in a damp mat or clotli, tlie border
thoroughly trenched over, and a thin layer of* good turfy
loam put on the top, when the roots may be again spread
over the surface ; all the decayed parts cut away with a
sharp knife, and covered by four or five inches of the
same kind of earth that was put under them. Care must
be taken however before winter sets in, that a good layer
of tree leaves, or weak littery dung be spread over, to keep
out the frost. There have been many examples, Avhen
this has been skilfully attended to, where a stock of vines
have been entirely rejuvenated, that were previously
worthless and thought to be worn out, but which have
afterwards borne good crops of fine fruit for many years
It is necessary to give a partial shade in the early part of
the following summer, or until the leaves get pretty web
expanded, and it is better not to let them carry much, if
any, fruit during the first year after the operation. Cloudy
or damp weather is the best time for removing, and
the roots should be as little time as possible out of the
ground.

Ret in the Fruit. — This has of late years caused con-
siderable loss in the cultivation of vineyards. It generally
shows itself at the time when the fruit begins to " stone,"
after Continued wet weather, followed by bright sunshine,
when the berries become discolored and fall off. All the
symptoms of this disease go to prove that it is the result
of the plants imbibing too much moisture at the time when
nature could better do with a reduction of it, for the grape
Tine at this stage of growth would be considerably bene-
fited if no rain were to fall during the after part of the
season. Seeing this to be the case, we ought, so far as
circumstances will allow, to try and remedy the evil by
the choosing of a situation that is open and airy, but not
exposed to the violence of storms — a free porous subsoil.

DISEASES. 153

or efficient drainage ; tliorongh and deep trenching or sub-
soil plowing, and not over-close planting, so that tlie air
may pass freely between and among the plants, in order
the better to drive off all superabundant atmospheric
moisture, and also enable the plants to exhale the over-
plus fluids with which, at such times, they are surcharged.
For the same reason, where the vines are trained over
arbors, or on trellises, the branches ought not to be too
close, or the summer growth to become crowded. This
object is not to be gained, however, by plucking off the
leaves as some persons very ignorantly do, but by atten-
tive disbudding of all those shoots that will not be actually
wanted, in the early part of the season, or so soon as it
can be plainly seen which branches will produce the finest
fruit, and by laying them in, at pruning time, sufficiently
distant — eighteen inches is near enough. In the grapery
-we are not much troubled by this nuisance, except in
damp, ill-ventilated, or badly-glazed houses, which is an-
other proof that the cause is an excess of moisture, for it
is a common practice, when the fruit begins to color, to
use very little or no water in any form, consequently at
the critical period the grapes are in a drier atmosphere
and the absorbing foliage is prevented from inhaling any
more moisture than is necessary to suppport health.
Where the vines are planted and the fruit is found to be
subject to the affection, it will be well to drain deeply
between the rows in the fall, and when the ground is
forked over to apply a good dressing of fresh powdered
lime ; indeed a very confident opinion will not be much
hazarded by stating, that a well drained calcareous soil, in
an airy but not exposed situation, w^ould be sure to give
grapes nearly, if not quite free from rot.

Spot. — The spot, although by some pe'rsons confounded
with the preceding disease, is certainly a different thing;

1 )4 THE GRAPE.

it is iMt SO injurious, as the berries only become marked
by a black spot on the surface, fbut which penetrates
through the skin), and remains on the vine to ripen ; the
q[uality, however, is considerably deteriorated, for it con-
tinues to be a " spot" to the last, and gives a bitter taste
to the flavor, not only for table use, but also to the wine
which may be made from the affected fruit. After some
years of careful watching for the cause of this, we are led
lo the conclusion that it is produced by the direct striking
of the heat of a midsummer sun immediately upon the
(berries, after heavy rain, the individual drops of which
/all with great force, and knock clear off a spot of the
* bloom" or farina that the berries are covered with, and
♦rLich, no doubt, is a protection against its intensity,
r.ho.ieby leaving the tender cuticle exposed, and subject to
he more readily acted upon, just the same as the concen-
trated focus of a burning glass, ou a previously covered
and delicate skin would be, if it were to be acted upon in
the same way. With this paralizing action upon the par-
ticular parts, they are more easily attacked by a fungus,
which, when once it becomes established, will progress so
long as the same weather continues, and hence is ex-
plained how the disease increases with a similarity of cir-
cumstances, and likewise the cause of its cessation.

There are several trifling matters connected with the
subject, which may not be considered as disease, that may
be traced to some of the causes previously mentioned,
but which if carefully observed may be remedied in time,
without permanent injury; and in connection with this it
may be mentioned, that although it has been recommended
to keep up a moist atmosphere with repeated syringing, it
is by no means to be inferred that it is intended to water
overhead in the middle of the day, or yet in the morning
tinless very early. In such a climate of "grey sunlight*

DISEASES. 155

ft., rhat of England, there will not be much harm done by
such a practice; but with our " bright and sunny skies,"
the same practice will lead to scald and to brown spots on
the tender bark and under side of the young leaves,
thereby interrupting, to a certain extent, the luxuriant
and free development, and sometimes will entirely check
the elongation of the branches, which causes a revulsiou
of the sap, and, of course, injury to the whole body.

CHAPTER XIV.
INSECTS, AND HOW TO DESTROY THElVl,

"Where the treatment described in the foregoing pages
has been adhered to, there will be little trouble with in-
sects in the late grapery, but in early forced houses, with
the most careful watchfulness, they sometimes make their
appearance during the middle and after part of summer;
also in the vineyard and all out-door culture of the grape,
either one kind or other will, at times, commit great rav-
ages, or do much mischief if they be not speedily de-
stroyed ; and ** prevention is better than cure," was never
more aprrpcs than in this case, for if a plant of any kind
is suffered to remain mfested with these pests, you may
bid good-bye to health or productiveness. Therefore be
on the look out, and when the enemy shows his advance
guard, rest assured that if not speedily routed, a numer-
ous army will follow. Attack his outposts, carry war
into his centre, destroy his flank and rear, and completely
annihilate him, or you will find that he will continue to
give annoyance. Give him no quarter, for he keeps no
truce, and so long as he has one helpmate of the opposite
sex, he Avill persevere in bringing up his myriads of off-
spring, which are soon ready for active operation and
renewed destruction.

The insects which attack our present subject, are red
spider (acarus,) several species of coccus, as brown tur-
tle, and white scaly bug, mealy bug, brown and white

(156)

INSECTS. 157

tortoise-shell scale, black and green fly, (aphis,) thrips,
fretters (cycadtB,) three or four kinds of beetles, as the
rose bug, cockchafer, &c., and occasionally the caterpil-
lars of some moths.

The red spider is a very small, dark red insect, almost
invisible to the naked eye, which locates on the under
side of the leaves ; it delights in a dry, hot atmosphere,
and if left long unmolested, will spread over the whole
house, spinning a delicate network, among which it
travels with the greatest facility, feeding upon, poisoning,
and disfiguring the plant. It may be destroyed by syring-
ing and a damp air, and can be completely eradicated
by the use of sulphur, used as advised for mildew. Indeed
it is doubtful if it will exist at all if sulphur be exposed
occasionally to a high temperature, without being ignited.
The writer applies it at times in his plant houses, and is
nc-rver troubled with either red spider or mildew ; even
among roses when forcing in the winter, and the only
trouble is, to sprinkle a small quantity over the hot water
pipes^ or coolest end of the flues, three or four times during
the season. If proper use be made of the s^a-inge, the
sulphur will not always be required, but when applied it
answers the double purpose of preventing the spread of
both red spider and mildew.

The different species of scaly and mealy bugs may be
destroyed by the preparation recommended for the vines
as the wash to be used in the fall, page 65. The scales
generally adhere to the bark, and the brown ones are
often so near the color of it as to require a close look to
see them; here they stick, sucking the juices, and ejecting
their sugary excrescence, which spreads over the leaves,
and stops up the breathing pores. The viealy hug is to be
found in the crevices between the bark, in the joints, and
among the bunches, in the form of little cottony -looking

158 THE GRAPE.

substances, in Avlilcli case it should be taken out with a
small brush or pointed stick, for if left in its lurking
places, the bunches among which it is located will be
disfigured and too dirty for use. The tortoise-shdl scale is
more solitary in habits, and in appearance like a small tor-
toise-shell ; it is to be found in the same places as the
brown scale, lives upon the juices of the vine, and can be
destroyed by the same means. Aphidae, or green and
black fly, are small insects, sluggish in movement, having
prominent antennjE, a large abdomen, and a long probos-
cis, with which they pierce the cuticle of the tender shoots,
and draw out the sap, which quickly brings decrepitude
into the advancing extremities. They are viviparous and
gregarious, and increase amazingly fast.

Thrips are small, active, linear-shaped little insects,
which congregate on and run over the under surface of
the leaves, disfiguring them, and eating the epidermis or
outer covering; and they^c/^er* (a species of C7/c«r/«) move
by short flights, or rather jumps when disturbed ; they
are somewhat linear and triangular in form, small, and of
a palish yellow color, and like the last they feed on the
outer covering of the leaves. All the last three varieties
can be destroyed by fumigating with tobacco, but care
should be used in the operation, so as not to apply too
much while the leaves are young and tender, for in that
state they are soon injured.

The rose bug is a lightish brown little beetle, with a
small head, and long proboscis. In some parts of the
country it is very destructive to hardy gi-ape-vines, before
and about the time of blossoming. It congregates through
th^ day-time often in great numbers, and eats the tender
flower stems, thus destroying all future prospects for
the season. The most efi*ectual way of keeping this trou-
blesome customer in check, is by hand-picking, at inter-

[NSECTS. lu\f

vals tlirough the day, more particularly early In tlie morn-
ing, for although it may be caught at any time when at
rest upon a plant, it is more sluggish before the heat of the
day commences. Being only the visitor of a period, annu-
ally, a careful watching for three or four weeks is requi-
site at this time, after which it disappears, and is no more
trouble. The ccckchajer htellcs are larger, more oval in
form than the foregoing, and of several colors; they attack
the leaves and young shoots through the season, but are
not so destructive. The same process (hand-picking) will
liave to be resorted to for their destruction. There are
also several kinds of the larvse of humming bird mcths
that occasionally feed upon the young stems, and edges cf
the leaves, and which, being so near the color of the parts
they feed upon, and cylindrical in form, are somewhat dif-
ficult to find ; consequently Avhen it is seen that injury is
being done, a sharp look-out ought to be practised, and a
quick eye will soon get accustomed to the detection of
these, and any other kind of caterpillars that occasionally
may be annoying. And here we may state that the best
advice which can be given in this matter in a general way
is, to remember the old saying, that a "stitch in time
saves nine ;" and if we do not wish to cultivate our de-
structive propensities, by having to destroy an immensity
in number of God's links in creation, we ought to have a
benevolent feeling, and recollect that the earliest and first
onslaught upon the precocious subject will render un-
necessary the putting to death of countless myriads after-
ward, each of which, \\x the true sense of reason, has as
good a right to live as ourselves.

With regard to the grapery under glass, if the insect
world is •* legion," and the generations quick in succession,
they are easily kept down, and nothing but gross negli-
gence or ignorance will permit them to get ahead. Use

160 THE GRAPE.

water freely during the earlier periods of growth, drive il
into all crevices of the house, and judiciously over the
vines, and you may generally defy all the host of them.
If after the fruit begins to ripen they should make an
attack, the sulphur and tobacco may be applied as recom-
mended, when their comparatively small numbers will ba
epeediljr put to the rout.

CHAPTER XV.

THE VINEYAllD, AND OUT-DOOR
CULTURE.

So far, the grape-vine has been treated of in a general
way, as regards the natural disposition of the various kinds
in cultivation. The practical details also are more par-
ticularly explained for the treatment of the exotics, but
to make a clean breast of our present business, there is
required some more notice of the natives, and out-door
culture. If we could be satisfied with a stand-still position
the thing might remain as it is, for almost everybody who
has a yard of land thinks of a grape-vine; and yet a
greater number know how to giow grapes, if we are to
believe the many metaphysical conversations that often
take place. The fact is, that all the species and varieties
will more or less prosper with almost any kind of treat-
ment, providing they be in a suitable climate ; but this
does not argue against the best cultivation, and there is
little fear of contradiction when the statement is made that
skill and care will be as amply repaid with any or all of
the kinds. It matters not whether for wine or table use,
this still holds good, and the only difference is in what is
required. If, for instance, the produce be intended for
wine, it will be necessary to combine, as much as possible,
those peculiar characteristics which the best samples are
found to possess, and in such case it is not advisable to in-
troduce too much stimulating matter to the roots, but let
nature have her way, with help directed towards her own

(101)

162 THE GRAPE.

course, and still further to make use of those varieties that
contain within their original structure more than usual of
those ingredients which are suitable for the purpose. Now
generally, with due maturily, there is enough of the car-
bonaceous property, that can, by the plant's own action,
be converted into sugar, and of course by proper fermenta-
tion a sufficient proportion of the alcoholic principle may
be obtained ; but this does not give the particular nor yet
the varied aroma for which some wines are so prized. Too
muchencouragament to the production of exterior develop-
ment delays the formation of concentrated sugary matter,
and those constituent properties which are derived from
hydrogen and other gases, that form in the exact propor-
tion those very desirable accompaniments which connois-
seurs delight in. Consequently it is easily seen that
moderate growth, with efficient drainage; must be the best,
and that as these peculiar properties are invariably more
highly concentrated under the influence of light and free
air, ample space is essential to vineyard culture. Although
our country is said to be " the land of the vine," it by no
means follows that we may plant with impunity in any
situation, or under any circumstances, and notwithstanding
it is found that some varieties grow even in swamp land,
and produce fine fruit withal, when left to ramble among
the* branches and overtop the loftiest neighboring trees, if
we try the same in culture for wine purposes, it would in
the greatest number of cases be nothing but a miserable
failure ; firstly, on account of deficiency ia the quality of
fruit ; and secondly, there would be no certainty of it
becoming ripe, from the liability to the rot. On the other
hand, the locality may be in all respects suitable, but yet
so exposed to violent storms, that the foliage may be in-
jured and torn to the detriment of both fruit and plant,
and therefore such should not be made choice of. Again,

VINEYARD AND OUT-DOOR CULTURE. 163

some caution should be exercised with regard to those
aspects which lie open to the winds that bring with them
the damp and fogs of summer ; consequently, it is objec-
tionable to choose a slope toward the sea. Each tract of
country has its own peculiarities, and an acqaintance with
the neighborhood will enable any observant mind to de-
cide in this particular There is no advantage in following
to the letter the advice of those who, too often, persist in
believing a south-east slope to be imperatively necessary —
men Avho may have prospered well enough in their own
country and climate, are sometimes wedded to a certain
faith, and have not always sufficient tractability of mind
to alter their practice or adapt it to a difference of circum-
stances. If we consider that along the eastern shores the
damp air which is brought from the ocean almost invariably
brings on a tendency to mildew and rot, it is evident that
in such a region it would be much better to adopt a spot
which is sheltered by higher ground on the eastern side.
At the same time, a low or moist situation should by all
means be avoided, or one where the air is liable to be
stagnant at times. The next most important item is a dry
under base ; a rough rubbly gravel subsoil, with a con-
tinued descent below, will generally prove naturally well-
drained, but in all examples to the contrary it ought to be
made so by artificial means.

Nothing conduces more to prosperity than a soil strongly
impregnated with carbonate of lime, or having limestone
rock beneath. If any body is sceptical in this, they may
be easily convinced by referring to analysis, or more
simply by examining the incrustation left on the edges of
the leaves after the evaporation of that excessive perspira-
tion, which sometimes takes place in hot and cloudy
weather, while the growth of the plant is young. There
is perhaps no plant which exhibits more clearly than docs

164 THE GRAPE.

the grape-vine, the oft-disputed fact that these inorganic
substances are really absorbed. Here is a plain proof
that they are, for according to the greater or less amount
of lime in the soil, so will this appearance be manifest. It
is most likely, that if all plants were so situated as to bo
enabled to take up the exact propoitions of the various
elementary food required by them, most of the diseases to
which they are subject would disappear; and certain
enougli it is, that all would be prevented, if we could con-
trol the elements to suit the difierent stages of growth,
and adapt the light and heat to all respective constitutions.

In makiijg choice of a piece of land for a vineyard, it
is not always convenient to gain possession of the precise
spot which our intelligence would covet ; but if it could
be done, and there are many opportunities where it may
be, we should accept an elevated table-land, lying high
and dry upon a limestone base, and screened from the
damp easterly and cold north and north-west winds by a
distant range of hills, which would protect without pro-
ducing a confined atmosphere, and give shelter against the
most frigid blasts of a below zero temperature.

We may also take a more philosophical view of the
method of planting than is generally practised, and in-
stead of fixing the plants in the position of so many hills
of corn, and about the same distance apart, when each
stool requires a stake, and the bearing cane has to be
curved over, thereby being only half supported, we would
consider the aspect that might have to be dealt with, the
inclination towards the sun's rays, and all such matters as
would give opportunity for the most prevalent drying
winds to blow through each row of vines, and in addition
to expose the upper side of the leaves as much as possible
to the action of the mid-day sun, in order the better to •
concentrate true growth, and prepare the plants to resist

VINEYARD AND OUT-DOOR CULTURE. 165

the violent and sudden changes of weather for which our
climate is so proverbial. The following explanation will
perhaps show more clearly what is here meant. After
making choice of a suitable soil and situation, and making
sure that the subsoil is well drained, commence to tren;h
with the spade, or plough deeply the whole piece. If
the spade be used and the soil shallow, this operation may
be performed as follows : Take out a trench at one side,
tlnee feet wide and one spit deep; wheel or cart this to
the other end, then loosen up the under soil another spit,
break it up well and leave it in the bottom ; throw the
next upper crust on the top of this, and so on until all is
finished. Where a large extent is to be cultivated, it would
become too expensive to trench, and the plough will have
to do the work ; in which case, the subsoil plough ought to
follow the top loosening. Where the soil is equally good
the two spit deep, the bottom may be turned to the top to
advantage. Very little manure will be needed if the earth
be in good heart, and well incorporated with vegetable
matter, but otherwise it is advisable to work in at the
same time, from ten to fifteen tons of decomposed barn-
yard dung to the acre ; and if there be a deficiency of the
alkaline bases, a dressing of lime and wood ashes will
prove very beneficial. Although the roots of the grape
vine, when established delight in an open turfy soil, a
cross ploughing and harrowing will be required to pul-
verize, sufficiently, the soil before planting, and give the
young fibres a better chance to lay hold of it at first start.
The work, also, ought to be done during the summer or
previous early fall, so as to get into good condition by the
time it may be wanted.

There are many cultivators who think it absolutely
necessary to choose a side-hill situation for the vineyard,
•od it must be admitted that such is often the best, but

166 THE GRAPE.

there is no reason why it should be invariably accepted to
the entire exchision of any other. However, where the
disposition leads that way, and all the above-mentioned
considerations are not to be acquired, it will answer the
purpose, and if the slope be anything like steep, the whole
extent will have to be formed into terraces. This becomes
more or less expensive according to the angle of ascent.
It should also be remembered, that on a hill-side, the cold
air, more particularly in the night, is constantly moving
along the surface, from the top towards the bottom, there-
by preventing that health-producing evaporation of warmth
from the soil Avhich is obtained fi-om the solar heat of the
previous day, and causing, in our extreme climate, a con-
densation of the moisture as it radiates upwards, which is
then canned along towards the lowest level in the form
of a damp and cold draft among the under parts of the
plants ; and it does not require a second thought to under-
stand how injurious such a circumstance is in all other
kinds of culture. No doubt many will think that such
notions as these are not worthy of consideration, but as
we are being troubled with rot, mildew, and other hurtful
affections, it is well to guard against all things that are
likely to provoke, or produce the evil, and avoid them
accordingly. Arguing from the culture of the grape-
vine, or any other plant under glass, we know that such
action would bring on these very diseases; and it is not to
inside cultivation alone that we are at all times dependent
for proof, for there now and then happens an example
where a plant is trained on two aspects, or the head is in
different positions, when one part is quite free from disease,
while the other is badly affected ; and it is just possible
that these cold currents of damp air is one of the causes
of mischief.

To prepare a side-hill for a vineyard, it will be requisite

VINEYARD AND OUT-DOOR CULTURE. 167

to form terraces from the bottom upwards, in wicltli
according to the steepness of ascent. If very abrupt, only
one row of vines can be accommodated on each, but with
a more gentle inclination the breadth may be sufficient
for two or even three rows. The front will also require
to be banked up to render the upper surface level, and
there is nothing more suitable for the purpose than thick
turfs of grass-sod, fixed on the edges, inclining from the
perpendicular towards the bank. Generally speaking,
these sods may be cut from the immediate surface, when
a portion of each length to be laid out will furnish enough
material for its own front, and as there is a right and a
wrong in this operation, like most other things, it may be
of service to show the right. When a bank of this charac-
ter is made of square sods, as seen in Fig. 30, they are
subject to give way during the rains of the first summer,
from the fact of there being no mechanical holdfast. Fig. 31

Fig. 30. Fig. 81.

////////

shows how this may be obviated, and the trouble or ex-
pense of workmanship is the same in both cases. The
way to get these latter is, to simply cut down a few inches
with the spade in a slanting direction, by a straight line
at equal distances, as much as may be wanted, and after-
ward cut to the same width, with the line placed diagon-
ally to the first cutting, which Avill give each individual
sod of the right size and form to push together, by merely
reversing the bevelled edge at each rise on the height.
The trenching, plowing, manuring, &c., will be the same
in this as the before-noticed plan. The next thing to hi

168 THE GRAPE.

done, is the preparing of supports upon wliicli to train the
v'ines.

The most common method of planting is, in straight
rows from five to six feet apart, and at right angles with
each other, and to simply have a pole to each vine ; the
method of training being the long rod, explained page
L20. This answers the purpose very well and has be-
come the most customary, in part from the introduced
routine of Europe, and in some measure as a consideration
of economy. As to the latter, there may be some saving
to the pocket, but unless there are more than counter-
balancing advantages, there is no use in fulloAving old
customs, so long as better ones can be introduced, and in
the present case, an improvement may be accomplished
by cheap trellises, which may be made in the following
manner : Prepare a quantity of good strong poles of
locust, chestnut, oak, or ash, seven feet six inches; point
and char these three feet on the lower end and drive
them into the ground two feet six inches, in rows six feet
apart, extending east and west, or as near these points as
may be practicable, and the poles nine feet assunder ; next
fix horizontally long narrow strips of wood, or straight
but thin saplings, to the uprights, at a distance of one foot ;
this will make a substantial trellis on which to train the
vines, and be far superior, with very little more expense
than the pole-to-one-vine that is so often made use of. It
is high time for us to adopt a principle of neatness com-
bined with utility, and endeavor to supersede all such
primitive machinery. If we are to imitate, let it not be a
retrograde movement, but onward progress ; and a still
further improvement might be introduced in the trellis re-
commended, by using galvanized iron wire for the hori-
zontal supports. There is some prejudice existing against
the use of wire as it has been thought that it does injury

VINEYARD AND OUT-DOOR CULTURE. IG9

to the vines by the rusting and their friction agaiJist so
hard a material, but practically we do not find it so. Let
the superintendent only attend lo his duty w ithout nurs-
ing his old prejudices, and see to the proper tying, and
our word for it, there will be no more detriment in wire
than anything else. However, let everybody go along as
he thinks best, only move onward, and as we are a great,
and daily becoming a greater nation, let us not disappoint
the expectations of the world by our want of originality.

All may now be considered as ready for planting, and
here again we have many notions to contend with. Cut-
tings— one-year old, two-year old, and even three-year
old plants, have each been considered as the best, accord-
ing to the whims and fancies of pedantry. The ftict is, wo
want a healthy start, at the least expense ; and as the
plants must have a length of time to become profitable,
what ran be more economical, or insure future success
better, than good one year vines ? The more than half part
of this business depends on previous preparation ; but, as
this costs money, it is well, at the same time, to be getting
ready the future occupants ; consequently it is good advice
to say : raise the plants on one spot, and be preparing on
the main superficial area ; or, if it be not convenient to
propagate, adapt all contingencies so as to make sure of
after results.

A young and well-rooted plant will, if properly managed
and attended, produce a greater growth than a stunted
older one, with the additional advantage of being alike in
all its parts ; what is true individually, will be so collect-
ively, over the whole vineyard, and a greater uniformity
will be obtained. In transplanting, take care that the
roots are lifted carefully, and removed to their new quar-
ters, before they become dried ; nothing produces more
evil to any plant than this often careless practice. Rooti*

8

170 THE GRAPE.

aie organized beings, containing fluid matter, and intended
to convey most of the nutriment upward to the whole
superstructure ; and if their tender cells become shrivelled^
they are not capable of again performing their offices with
the same degree of energy, but remain comparatively
inactive for a length of time, or die immediately. If the
top languishes, a weak start is the consequence, with per-
haps the loss of a whole season.

If the trellis be accepted, the rows may be six feet
apart, and the plants four feet asunder ; but, in the ordi-
nary way of staking, five feet each way will be the nearest
possible distance. In putting down the roots, dig a hole
six inches deep, and wide enough for them to be spread
out all around ; cover carefully with well pulverized soil ;
cut off the head to two or three good eyes ; and, when the
vines begin to start, mulch over, so far as the roots extend,
•with rotted barn-yard manure; or, if that cannot be had,
then with any vegetable refuse, that is free from seeds,
that may be at hand.

When the shoots begin to elongate somewhat, it will be
seen which is going to be the strongest, and all the others
may be rubbed off. As this continues to grow, tie it up to
the stake or trellis, pinch out the laterals (the small side-
shoots which grow at the base of each leaf) to one eye, as
they are produced, and rub off all superfluous suckers or
branches. Nothing further will be required than to keep
the ground free from weeds, by hoeing, or the plough,
through the summer. The long-rod method of training is
one of the best for the vineyard, but a periodical extension
is still better, as it is more in accordance with the consti-
tutional powers of the grape-vine, more particularly the
strong, growing natives, and alike applicable to all the
varieties. Here is one of the greatest advantages of the
trellis versus the pole method, as with the latter no greater

VINEYARD AND OUT-DOOR CULTURE. 171

bulk of plant than is acquired after tlie tliird year is
practicable. A reference to the chapter on pruning will
explain all respecting this part; so there is no use in pur-
suing the subject further, excepting to state that cleanli-
ness is one of the first demands of the vineyard, and is sure
to more than repay for the invested labor.

The training over arbors, around dwellings, and all
such positions, will require the same fundamental culture
that has been explained for the vineyard, the only differ-
ence being in the peculiar desires or fancy of the culti-
vator with regard to the form of the plant. As the grape-
vine is so lavish with its embracing arms, they may be
entwined around or over anything that will give them
support ; the whole plant will continue to delight the eye
with its beauty, and gratify the palate with its luscious
sweets, if kindly treated. Even with worse than careless-
ness, we may enjoy a portion of its liberality ; but, accord-
ing as kindness is bestowed, so may we expect to meet
with an abundant gratitude ; for, like the better part of
humanity, it can appreciate, and will fully return former
benevolence.

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS.

JANUAU IT.

OUT-DOOR CULTURE.

In our northern, ice-bound regions very little can be
done in this month, further than preparing for the future.
"We may, however, take notice of all that will be re-
quired, such as the conveying of manure to the plants,
painting and cleaning trellises, collecting and preparing
stakes, and other matters of like character, which would
interfere with time when we can ill spare it. In the
South, the instructions for February and March will be
suitable at this time. And here we may state, that a
similar difference will apply, until about ripening-time,
for the mme latitudes.

COLD GRAPERY.

Keep the house cool and open with bright sunshine,
but close at night, and likewise in the day-tinie when the
weathei" is severe and cloudy. Examine occasionally for
rats and mice, as Ihey sometimes do much mischief by
gnawing the vines. It is well to rub a little arsenic be-
tween slices of bread, cheese, or beef, and lay them close
to the base of the plants underneath the covering.

FORCINa HOUSE.

Here the grape-grower has, fc^ some time to r-^;me, to

[173]

174 THE GRAPE.

exert his best skill. See to the covering of the borders ;
be sure these are right. — (See page 81.) In the first
early house the vines will be considerably advanced m
gr')wth — perhaps, near blooming — and the temperature,
in such case, may range from 60° at night, to 85°
ill the day, with sunshine, or 75° without it. When
the blossoms begin to expand, cease watering overhead
until the berries are set, but damp the surface of the
floor, and over the heating apparatus, while the house is
still warm in the afternoon. The second early house will
be about starting, for which see page 84. These direc-
tions will apply to this house now. See, also, page 87.

RETARDING HOUSE.

This part of grape-culture has not yet become as gen-
eral as it ought to be. The object is to keep back or
retard the ripening of the fruit (fully explained on page
98), so as to have it fit for use during the winter months.
To the commercial grower we here more particularly
speak, as, during the winter months, a higher price is
paid for grapes than at any other season of the year.
At present the demand far exceeds the supply. Instead
of fine black Hamburgs, or others of like quality, there
is nothing for sale but the White Lisbon and Black Por-
tugal— two inferior kinds, which are rendered still worse
by long keeping, and the sea-voyage from Portugal and
other parts of southern Europe. As the grapes ought
now to be hanging ripe in this house, constant slow fires
are necessary to keep out the frost. Do not let the tem-
perature rise higher than from 40° to 45° at night,
and 55° in the day. No water is required, and every
precaution should be used to maintain a dry atmos-
phere, and the bunches free from decaying berries.
For pruning, see page 101.

CALENDAR OF OrERATIONS. 175

FE B R U Alt Y.

OUT-DOOR CULTURE.

Not much can yet be done in this department, except
as explained last month. If pruning was not done in the
fall, take the earliest opportunity for the operation
during the first mild weather. Never cut a branch from
any plant when frozen ; rather wait beyond the usual
time, but do not delay in this case longer than is neces-
sary. Tie the vines to the stakes or trellises ; level
manure when necessary, so that the melting snow and
rains may wash it down amongst the roots previous to
digging or forking the ground after winter is over.

COLD GRAPERY.

The directions for last month will apply also to this ;
consequently, there is no need for repetition.

FORCING HOUSE.

As the weather is very changeable, generally, in this
month, the utmost care is required ; for, be it remem
bered, that all the growth we have got, so far, is artifi-
cial, and soon injured. Watch particularly the changes
from a north-east and wet storm, to the sudden, bright,
severe, and drying atmosphere of the north-west. In
such case, mind to keep the floor of the house damped
over several times during the first day, and afterwards
until the tender leaves can withstand the sun's fervid
influence. Syringe overhead every evening in clear
weather, but withhold water during wet sk)rms, and
while the blossoms are expanded, except on the floor of
the house. In the earliest house let the temperature
range from 60° at night to 85° or 90° with simshine.
For second early, see Jrurnal, page 87.

J 76 THE GRAPE.

RETARDING HOUSE.

Attend to last month's directions.

MARCH.

OUT-DOOR CULTURE,

In all localities, excepting the extreme north, the coil
will now be in a fit state for working, and no time should
be lost in getting ready for planting. If the land for vin-
yard culture has an open, sandy, or gravelly subsoil,
where the water passes freely away, there will be no
further preparation required than deep trenching, or sur-
face ploughing, followed with a subsoil plough that will,
at least, penetrate twenty inches deep, — if deeper, so much
the better ; indeed, it ought to go down to the natural
drainage. If the subsoil is heavy and stiff, the situation
is inferior for the purpose, and artificial drains will more
than repay the cost of making.

Many persons think the older a vine is before planting,
the sooner they will have a full crop of fruit. I have fre-
quently talked with those who needed to be convinced
that a three or four year old vine would not set and ripen
plenty of bunches the same season it is planted. For the
vineyard, either cuttings or one year old plants are best.
The latter, all things considered, have the preference. It
is far better to have an abundance of healthy roots, with
a small well-ripened stem, than the reverse. The plants
may be arranged at the distance of five feet each way.
(See page 168.) When cuttings are used, or if the plants
have been raised from cuttings, there will be roots emit-
ted along the buried part of the stem, and the planting
should be, in either case, deep, for the sake of retaining
the whole of them, and also enabling the vine to have a
resorvoir to feed from in dry weather.

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS.

177

It is expected thnt pruning has been completed before
this time ; if not so, do it without delay. When this
operation is deferred until late, the vines will " bleed"
freely, and, although this does not materially injure them,
it nevertheless prevents a vigorous burst of the foliage
and young shoots, retards the ripening, and injures the
quality of the fruit for the season. If the vines have not
been neatly tied to the trellises, or stakes, do it at once.
When the branches are left to be dashed about by the
equinoctial gales, or even handled when the buds are
swelling, they are easily injured. Remove all the loose
bark, and examine if there be any chrysalides or eggs of
insects in the crevices, — if so, destroy them ; and Avhen
there is only a limited quantity of vines, and time can be
spared, it makes sure work if both branches and trellis
should be washed over with the mixture mentioned on
page 65. Near a dwelling-house or other building this
ought to be done every season, for in such places the
insects are often more numerous, and have better chances
of protection through the winter. Have
an eye to neatness and finish, and as
soon as the weather will permit, fork
over the surface, working in the ma-
nure or other dressing, applied in the
Fall as a mulch, at the same time.

The accompanying figure (Fig. 32)
shows another very good method for
training the hardy kinds, and is best
adapted for vineyards ; {a) the bearing
branches ; {h) shoots of the present year,
and intended for fruiting the next sea-
son; (c) stakes.

Fig. 32.

8*

178 THE GRAPE.

COLD GRAPERY.

The vines may remain covered until the latter part of
the present, or, in late situations, the bep:inning of next
month. The house should be kept cool by having the
ventilators and doors open at all times except during
severe frost. After the covering is removed, clean the
house and make all neat. Fork the inside beds, and
give a thorough syringing over the whole house, select-
ing a mild time for the operation. Do not, however,
repeat this operation daily until the danger from sharp
frosts is past. For planting, see page 59.

FORCIXG HOUSE.

This is the most trying month in the year, (even more
so than the preceding one,) whei'e grapes are being forc-
ed early, as, generally speaking, the roots are in a cold
bed, and notwithstanding there may be a sufficient
covering on the surface, still the soil lacks the genial heat
which a summer's sun imparts, while, at the same time,
the branches are exposed to a temperature and atmos-
phere suitable to their healthy action, and the advancing
fruit is drawing considerably on the energy of the plants.
This difference of condition and artificial position, tends
to the development of the plant, it is true, but the ex-
panded leaves have not the requisite supply of organic
matter flowing through them, which causes them to
remain more than usually thin and watery, and the
fruit is liable to suffer accordingly, unless the greatest cau-
tion be exercised. The weather too, at this time, is fickle,
one day being mild, cloudy and moist, while the next
may be dry, cold and windy, with severe frost. These
sudden differences require the greatest care and watch-
fulness, else after a day of severe weather, the leaves will
suddenly wilt and be destroyed, when the sun's powerful

CALET^DAR OF OPERATIONS. 179

rays strike them. During these cold days, do not open
any but tlie top ventilators, and these no more than is
necessary to keep the thermometer from rising too high.
Damp the floor, sides and ends of the house, so as to
secure a humid atmosphere, which will assist the circu-
lation of the sap, the leaves absorbing the moisture
through the stomata, or breathing pores, on the under
side. Be careful to keep a steady range of temperature
from 60° at midnight, and 75° in cloudy, with a rise or
85° to 90° on sunny days. Break off all superfluous
growing shoots, thin the berries early, and reduce the
crop down to what is finally intended, so that the vines
may be eased as much as possible. The directions for
January, in the Forcing House, will now apply to the
Second Early.

RETARDING HOUSE.

Keep the atmosphere dry and cool, but if there be any
grapes still hanging on the vines, do not let the frost in.
At this time the vines should be resting, consequently
care ought to be used in preventing the house from be-
coming heated. If the pruning is not finished, do it im-
mediately, clean the vines, as previously advised for other
crops, and lower the canes down from the roof, that the
Bun may not have so much influence upon them. It is
much better to get a tardy development than to have a
low temperature during growth.

APRIIi.

Comparatively speaking, the grape grower will now
begin to have busy work. The various successions of the
exotics are more or less in activity, from the swelling bud
to full-sized grapes, and the natives are beginning to de-
velop, which renders it necelsary that we should be on
the alert.

180 THE GRAPE.

OUT-DOOR CULTURE.

In this department, when the buds are burst so far as
to show which are likely to be the most suitable shoots
for training in the right places, or to be left for fruiting,
go over the whole and rub off all that are not wanted, or
which, if left, would produce superfluous growth. This
operation requires some study as the work proceeds. A
reference to the illustrations in former pages will explain
what is here meant, and the reader will readily perceive
which buds ought to be taken out and which left to grow.
I wish most particularly to impress the importance of
this dis-budding upon all who desire either profit, or
grapes of the best quality. It will save much after-
labor in the way of summer pruning, and be of advantage
to the vines and fruit by more fully exposing the leaves
to air and light. The branches are less crowded, and
the carbonic acid more thoroughly decomposed, thus
forming a larger amount of saccharine matter in the fruit,
and better ripened and firmer wood for the next year.

COLD GRAPERY.

The vines in this house may now be uncovered, even in
the coldest localities. Examine them to see if any injury
has been done by the extreme cold of the past winter,
which will show itself in the fonn of longitudinal slits, or
openings along the canes, especially near the upper ex-
tremities. These will, in a sliort time, become dark-
colored on the edges, and begin to " bleed," and without
great caution the whole, or a large portion of the cane,
Avill die ofi". The best thing in such cases is to tie the
stem to the roof-wires at once, and keep a lower temper-
ature for a week or two. If, notwithstanding this, the
buds do not burst, and the sap still continues to ooze out,
do not cut down immediately, but wait xuiWi a healthy

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS. 181

ajid vigorous shoot near the lower end has grown some
eighteen inches, when the whole upper head may be cut
away, and the young branch trained up in its stead.
This mischief is the result of imperfectly ripened wood,
and insufficient covering during the winter, a fact oi
wdiich some persons have been rather expensively con-
vinced during the last few severe seasons, and which has
furnished prejudice, neglect, and bad management, a sub-
terfuge to condemn the practice of growing the Eui-opean
grapes under glass, without artificial heat. When no
injury has occurred, the vines may be loosely tied to
the wires, with the top left suspended in an arched
position, until all the buds are well and evenly grown
some two or three inches, after which the canes should
be fastened in their permanent form for the summer.
Do not let any drafts of air into the house, but lower the
temperature as may be desired by opening the top ven-
tilators. Keep the house cool during the first three
weeks on account of the liability to frosty nights. Let
the thermometer, up to the end of this time, rise no
higher than 65°, if possible. At the end of the month it
may be allow^ed to rise to 70°, or 75° and 80°, and now
commence using water freely with the syringe or hose-
pipe, evenings and mornings, distributing it over every
part of the vines, and into all crevices of the woodwork,
for the double purpose of moistening the atmosphere,
and dislodging any insects that have taken refuge there.

FORCING nOUSE.

Tlie earliest crop will now be ripening fast, and thin-
ning will be finished. The heat may be increased to 65°
or 70° at night, and 85° to 90° at mid-day. Water over-
head ought now to be discontinued, but damp the floor
of an evening. Continue to nip out the upper advancing

182 THE GRAPE.

growtli of the lateral shoots to one leaf above where Inst
stopped, and remove all the lower side shoots on eacn
fruit spur, excepting the two uppermost, which are leit
for the purpose of drawing the sap, and preventing the
base buds from bursting.

The kind of mildew which is sometimes so troublesome
during July and August, to late crops, seldom shows
itself in an early house of grapes. But there is another
sort, which appears as a delicate white mold on the sur-
face of the berries, and on the upper side of the leaves,
and this is more prevalent in the forcing house than the
cold grapery. It is most to be apprehended after a dry
and heated atmosphere has been maintained for some-
time, as for instance, immediately after " blooming time."
This disease may be thoroughly destroyed by syringing
the vines with water, in which has been mixed some flour
sulphur, say one pound to twenty gallons. While using,
keep the sulphur well stirred, for it is upon the contact
of this and the fumes given off b^^ slow combustion, tliat
the remedy depends.

The same directions that were given last month for the
earliest house, will now be applicable to the second early,
and need not be repeated.

THE RETARDING HOUSE.

Let all the doors and ventilators be open until the buds
begin to swell, and even during the whole month when
tliere is no danger of frost ; when so, the house may be
closed at night, and opened again early in the morning.
A less amount of moisture is required for this than for
other crops, as the object is to prevent the vines from
getting into brisk action, and the natui-al atmosphere is
sufficiently damp for the present. In making preparation
for a house of this kind, it is best to have the bed or bor-

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS. 183

der for the roots to grow in. nearly or quite rf.ised above
the ground level, which, from its drier capacity, will a^
sist the vines more fully to centralize their juices, and
somewhat prevent the accumulation of too much crude
fluid and unripened growth in the fall.

Now that the severity of the season is over, we may
look among the vines, and examine the effects of the ex-
treme cold of the past winter. There will be instances,
in very cold latitudes, where the vines have excusably
suffered ; but, in the majority of cases, the mischief has
occurred through an over-damp or imperfectly drained
sub-soil. Those under glass may be injured from the
same cause, and from over-rich, deep borders, which
tend to keep the canes in a growing state, and supplied
with too much fluid, until the approach of winter, leav-
ing no time before the frost sets in for the drying up or
ripening off of the woody fibre. In hi-door culture, some
protection is afforded by the house, even though no fire-
heat has been applied through the winter. True, we
sometimes see examples where the exotics growing in
the open air are nearly or entirely uninjured, leading us
to infer that no covering is necessary. In the grapery,
however, we must recollect that much richer beds are
prepared for the roots, and, consequently, a large growth
is produced, which requires longer time, and a drier
atmosphere in the Fall, to evaporate the surplus juices,
to enable the vine to withstand any great amount of
frost. These considerations show the necessity of cover-
ing the vines in houses where fire-heat is not used.

I have spoken thus minutely of this, as many practical
cultivators and amateurs would like a house of exotic

184 THE GRAPE.

giapos, providing they can succeed with them without
the expense and trouble of artificial heat. Although
fire-heat is of service, temporarily, thei-e is no actual ne-
cessity for it, as, with a well-fitted glass arbor, attention
to covering in the winter, and not hastening the vines
into growth in the spring, great results may be accom-
plished, as I have proved during the last ten years.

OUT-DOOR CULTUEE.

In the vineyard, and out-door culture generally, the
vines will now begin to show their fruit, and likewise
the most suitable branches for next year's bearing. Con-
tinue to disbud, or rub out, all that are superfluous.
Tijose which are fastened to stakes will require, say two
of the best lower shoots to be left. A sufficient number
should be retained upon trellises to fill up all vacancies,
or furnish branches to be laid in at the distance of eight-
een inches apart, as fruiteis hereafter. Nothing dete-
riorates the quality of the fruit, or renders it subject tc
rot, more than the over-crowding of growing wood
during the summer. Every leaf should be freely exposed
to the action of light, which cannot be the case when
these young superfluous branches are allowed to " ride
over " the whole surface of the plant.

COLD GRAPERY.

Some care is still necessary, during the earlier part of
the month, where late frosts are apprehended. In such,
keep the house cool for a few days, but do not neglect a
free use of the syringe over the vines every mild eve-
ning. A liberal supply of water should be spiinkled over
the floor of the house iu the morning, to maintain a moist
and genial, but not over-stimulating atmosphere, which
will cause the buds to swell and burst with viccor. \Yhen

CALENDAR OF OPEKATIONS. 18-5

the shoots are sufficiently ndvaiieecl to show the best
ones for fruiting, and also for next year's "SA^o'od, all, ex-
cepting these, may be rubbed out. It is best, however,
to leave an extra one on each spur, in case of accident ,
for, when fire-heat is not used, the young shoots are quite
brittle, and sometimes burst out before a sufficient
amount of woody fibre is foimed at their base to connect
Ihem firmly with the parent branch. For the same rea
son they ought to be handled very carefully, and not be
drawn down to the wires too soon. Towards the middle
or latter part of tlie month, according as the locality is
free from frosts, the house should be kept more closely
shut, and the vines allowed to commence their growth
in earnest. Let the temperature be gradually raised a
degree or two each day, beginning with 70°, and in-
creasing to 85° in the middle of the day. Do not
open the lower ventilators, as the cold air checks the
circulation of the sap, and paralyzes the action of the plants.
Close the house early at night, use Avater freely over-
head, and give the vines every chance to push into vig-
orous growth. The outside borders should also be
attended to. We will presume that a mulching of manure
was applied in the fall, which should now be forked over,
leaving the soil loose and open, to allow the air and sun
to act upon the sub-soil, thus invigorating the roots.
If this covering of manure was omitted, apply it at once,
after lightly forking over the border. The spring rains
will carry the soluble fertilizing niateiial to the roots, as
food for the plants.

THE FORCIXG HOUSE.

The earliest crops will now be ripe, and the second
early "atoning." When the last swell of the fruit com-
mcuces, syringing overhead may be discontinued, and

186 THE Gil APE.

water entirely withheld inside of the house as the coloi-
ing progresses. At this time, a grape-vine will be main-
tained in a healthy state, if kept very dry. We are,
however, sometimes compelled to apply water, to j^i"*"-
vent the encroachment of insects; but when this becomes
a necessity, the water should never come in contact with
the fruit, as it would cause some kinds to burst their
skins, and all would be injured in appearance by the
" bloom " being washed from the surface of the berries.
For the latter reason, the bunches should not be touched
with the fingers, or rubbed in any way, while hanging
on the vines. As the side-shoots continue to push fresh
growth, the tops will need to be shortened-in to one leaf
above the former pinching ; but in young canes of the
present season, the top may be allowed to extend, and
the laterals shortened to one leaf as they continue to
increase. The later successions of grapes will require
the same treatment which was recorded for this, in the
last two months, and need not be repeated here.

RETAEDIXG HOUSE.

With the retarded crop the temperature maybe main-
tained as low as possible for some time yet, and a very
small quantity of water used.

JUNE .

OUT-DOOR CULTURE.

The vines in this department will now be in active
progress. As the shoots elongate, nip out the tops to
three or four leaves above the fruit-bunches, but allow
those intended for next year's wood to extend them-
selves for the present, rubbing off all that are super-
fluous. Now is the time to save much after-labor in

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS. 187

snininer-pruning, and prevent injury to the fruit; there-
fore, do not leave more branches than are necessary to
lay in, eighteen inches apart, on the trellis, or furnish
two or three for the stakes, according to the mode of
training. A reference to former chaj)ters and cuts will
show what is here meant. Let these young shoots
acquire some woody fibre at the base before tying-in,
else they will be liable to break oif ; but do not delay
the operation longer than necessary. Some persons use
willow twigs and rye straw for this purpose ; the former,
however, are troublesome, and the latter very unsightly.
Good Russian bast will always be found more conven-
ient, much neater, and quite as economical. As soon
as blossoming is past, and the best bunches can be select-
ed, cut off all the superfluous and inferior ones. A
healthy and vigorous cane may be allowed to bear one
pound of grapes to each foot in length ; but on those of
weaker growth the weight should be correspondingly
less, if good quality is the object. Keep a sharp look-
out for insects, as they sometimes do much mischief at
this time. There are several kinds of beetles and cater
pillars which eat the young shoots, and likewise the
stalks of the bunches. These should be destroyed by
hand-picking early in the morning, when they are slug*
gish and easily caught. There is also a species of Aphis,
or small black fly, which congregate in great numbers
on the young growth, and, by sucking the juices, kill the
tops of the shoots if they are not destroyed. Syringing
with whale-oil soap dissolved in hot water, and after-
wards diluted to the proportions of one pound of the
8oap to three gallons of water, will be effectual ; or,
the next best substitute is common soap-suds, used in tho
same way. It is not best to apply these materials wliilo
the blo^isoms are expanding, but attack the insects by

188 THE GRAPE.

hand before they become numerous. Loosen the soil
with the hoe or plough, to destroy weeds, and allow the
rains to penetrate. The cuttings which were put down
in March will also be benefited by the same process, and
if drouth should occur, a good soaking of water will
make their success more certain, and prevent many from
dying out. Now is a good time to propagate by layers.
For this purpose, bury a branch of last year's growth
some four inches deep, leaving the young lateral shoota
of the present season in a perpendicular position, having
the tops above ground. Press down some hooked pegs,
to keep the branch in its place, and cover with earth.
\t the end of summer, these upright branches will have
an abundance of roots, and may be divided into as many
individual plants.

COLD GRAPERY.

The vines in this house will, like those in the open air,
be in active growth, and all means should be used to
encourage their development. Syringe over the whole
every evening, if the weather is clear and dry, but not
otherwise, immediately before sundown, closing the house
at the same time, and do not open when cloudy ; be
careful, however, to ventilate when the sun's rays burst
suddenly out. The great object is to maintain an even
temperature, or rather a gradual but slow rise until mid-
day, a steady heat till evening, and a corresponding fall
from that time until midnight. The ihermonieter may
be allowed to ascend to 85° or 90°. The advice as to
training, fertilizing, &c., given in former pages, for the
forcing house, will now apply to this, and need not bo
repeated.

FORCING HOUSE.

The earliest crop will now be mostly used up, and the

CALENDAR OF OPERATION'S. 189

next beginning to color. Water overliead ought to bo
discontinued in the latter, and entirely withheld in the
former. Keep the house well aired, by opening both
the top and front ventilators. Let the ailing be more or
less abundant, according to the weather, ventilating
freely when clear and warm, and closing the house when
stormy and cool. As much as possible maintain a free
circulation ; for, if the grapes become covered with con-
densed moisture the flavor is very much deteriorated,
besides being liable to rot. If wasps or flies become
troublesome, hang up vials partially tilled with molasses
and honey mixed together, or some sugar dissolved in
water, Avith the addition of a small portion of rum.
Either of these mixtures will entice them to enter the
vessel, and both will destroy; the first by its adhesive
consistency, and the second by its stupifying effects,
causing the insects to fall into it, where they are
drowned.

RETARDING HOUSE.

This house may now be closed in the evening, and
kept cool during the day, which may be accomplished
by lowering the top ventilators far down. Do not open
ihe front windows at all when cloudy, and no further
at any time than is actually necessary to reduce tlie heat
to 75 deg. at noon. When the weather is settled and
dry, an occasional syi'inging in the evening may be ap-
}>lied, but this must be done with caution, on account of
the liability to mildew ; for this crop is more commonly
attacked than any other. This affection does not often
ai)p<'ar until next month, and ^ull be fully discussed at
ihiit UQie.

190 THE GRAPE.

J U I. Y.

MILDEW.

As this pest to the grape-grower commences its de
structive efiects with the first damp and muggy weather
h\ this month, and, if not timely checked, will ultimately
destroy the hopes of the cultivator, the subject requires
more than a passing notice, and at the risk of being
thought tedious, we again repeat an explanation. This
intruder is a fungoid plant, strictly parasitical in its na-
ture, requiring a living ^organism upon which to com-
mence developing. It is also entirely dependent upon a
peculiar state of the atmosphere, otherwise the sporules
or minute seeds which float unperceived in the air, cannot
vegetate. The first indication of mildew is manifested by
brown spots on the leaves, generally along the mid-ribs
and larger reticulations. The fleshy parts, so far as affect-
ed, are soon destroyed, and immediately after this, the
fungus develops its fructification in the form of a white down
on the under side of the leaf. In this state tho spores
are ripe for future growth ; and so quick is this action,
that in two or three days thej will spread over a great
part of the leaves and fruit, causing the entire vines to be
irreparably injured for the season.

Our own native kinds, such as Isabella, &c., having a
hardier constitutional power, are only slightly, and some-
times not at all aff*ected, but owing to our extreme
chano-es, we are not able to cultivate the exotics in the
open air to perfection, except in the best sheltered city
yards. After many years' close observation, I have in-
variably found that a sudden check to the circulatory
jiiedium of plants renders not only the grape-vine, bui
most other, very liable to be infested with mildew, while,
if :i healthy and vigorous growth be mamtained, they art

CALENDAR OF OPKRATIONS. 191

comparatively free. For this reason, it is advisable to
keep the doors and lower ventilators closed, and admit
air only by the upper openings until the fruit begins to
lose its acidity, after which there is no danger.

The antidotes to mildew are a warm and dry atmos-
phere, and sulphur. Whenever it is detected, do not use
any water inside the house during cloudy or damp
weather, and sprinkle sulphur over the floor in the pro-
portion of one pound to each fifteen square yards. There
is no occasion to throw it over the plants inside the house,
but in the vineyards or out-doors, it will be requisite to
dust it in an upward direction, so as to adhere to the
under side of the leaves, and prevent the rains from
washing it off. The fumes given out by slow combustion
are the remedy, and care should be taken that it is not
ignited. Mistakes have frequently been made by per-
sons introducing burning sulphur into graperies and
plant-houses, as well as using it under the leaves of trees
out-doors, the consequence of which is, a total destruction
of the foliage, if not death to the plant.

OTJT-DOOR CULTURE.

Continue to keep the ground clear from weeds, using
the hoe freely, but do not injure the roots. Remember
that every weed draws moisture out of the eaj'th, while
every stroke of the hoe enables the dews to penetrate.
Wherever it is possible, a good mulching of barn-yard
manure, or any kind of vegetable reftise that is free from
weeds, ought to be spread over the whole surfixce, which
will assist in keeping the soil moist, and promote the
vigor of the vines. Do not let the growth bcicome
crowded. Nip out the side laterals on the young canes
down to the lowest leaf upon each, and the new growth
of the fruit spurs in the same way to where last stopped.

192 THE GRAPE.

Soap-surls and chamber-lye are of great benefit, applied
in dry weather, when the vines are growing freely.
They ought, however, to be diluted with one-half water,
particularly the former, which may be readily done by
sinking a large tub in the ground in a convenient place,
so as to receive the liquid as it is made, mixing as used.
When the ground is very wet, do not add more moisture ;
but, generally speaking, at this season there is a want of
it, and when it is applied, pour down in pailfuls over the
surface as far as the roots extend, but not against the
base of the stem, as many people very ignorantly do.
The feeders are not here ; they penetrate to a considerable
distance, and water applied to the stem does more harm
than good, sometimes rotting the trunk.

Never take off any leaves from the branches to "let in
light to the fruit," which is another evil practice. The
fruit is naturally shaded by the leaves, and so situated, it
is always of better quality, provided there is a free circu-
lation of air and overcrowding prevented, which may be
done by following the advice above.

COLD GRAPERY.

The same practice of stopping the laterals and ends of
the shoots, as described in the foregohig, will apply here.
Maintain the temperature at 90° to 95° mth sunshine,
and graduate as advised last month. Continue to syringe
the vines overhead, if the w^eather be dry and clear; but
if mildew make its appearance, cease to use any water
inside the house, and apply the sulphur as directed. Do
not admit any more external air than is necessary to re-
duce the heat, and be careful under the circumstances to
have the lower ventilators closed. This course, if adher-
ed to strictly, and persevered in until the fruit begins to
<o!or, will most assuredly immediately check, and finally

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS. T03

entirely destroy the mildew, while the introduction of
any preventive in a liquid state is, to say the least, of a
doubtful utility ; all such, which I have known, ojily in-
crease the evil. See that tlie outside borders are well
mulched, if not already attended to ; and should there be
drouth, a good soaking of water, in which is dissolved
one pound of guano to thirty gallons ; or, still better, the
diluted drainings of a dung-hill will be of material ser-
vice. As the berries progress in size, lose no time in
commencing to cut out the superfluous ones, according
to previous directions, and when it is desired to retain
them upon the vines after becoming ripe, reduce the
quantity of berries so that they may hang loosely, and
the air be enabled to circulate through the bunches.

FORCING-HOUSE.

The only care required hereafter in this department
will be the eradication of insects, and shortening-in the
extra growth. Let the house remain open at all times,
excepting during storms, to preserve the fruit, and pre-
vent the vines from pushing a second growth, which
would seriously injure them for another season.

RETARDING-HOUSE.

The same treatment recorded for the Cold Grapery
last month will now apply to this, excepting that the
thermometer may range some five degrees lower at mid-
day, and great care should be exercised in using water.
If mildew shows itself, keep the house dry, apply the
sulphur, and employ the heating apparatus just suflicicnt
to rarify the air. Lift the upper ventilators at the same
time to reduce the temperature.

194 THE GRAPE.

AUGUST.

OUT-DOOR CULTURE.

Those cultivators who have taken our advice witK
regard to early removal of superfluous shoots, and shorten-
ing-in of the fruit branches, will now see the advantage
in the promising fruit, and the thick solid texture of the
leaves. Were this more generally attended to, we
should not hear of so many instances of decay and
falling off of the fruit, or so much respecting the defi-
ciency in ripening.

Continue to keep the ground free from weeds, and
when the hoe only is used, let the ground be deeply and
well stirred.

Notwithstanding all the care that can be taken, there
may occasionally be some diseased berries, and now is
the time to remove such by cutting them out with the
scissors. A little care bestowed in this way w411 more
than repay the labor. It can be done with little expense,
even though it be over a large vineyard.

COLD GRAPERY.

During the early part of the month be on the look-oul
for mildew, more particularly in damp or foggy weather.
The sporules are now in the greatest abundance, and will
most readily germinate under favorable circumstances.
Counteract the liability to this fungus by a dry atmos-
phere, impregnated with the fumes of sulphur under slow
combustion, which the warm air inside the house wuU
afford during a fine day. When the grapes begin to
color, or soften to the touch, there is very httle further
danger from this pest, but water should be discontinued
overhead, and a gradually drier air maintained in the
house. It is possible to have ripe fruit in the cold

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS. 195

.^1 apery on the first of the month from the earliest
varieties, but this is not usually accomplished until the
middle or latter part of the month. As the ripening
progresses omit the use of water entirely, and give more
air, gradually opening the lower ventilators if the weather
is favorable. The object now is to insure a continued
steady action in the circulating medium, and prevent
sudden checks, which would arrest the chemical changes
going on at this critical period, and injure both the
coloring property and the flavor of the berries. When
the fruit is nearly ripe the upper ventilators may be left
open at all times, but it is well to close the lower ones at
night to keep out mice and currents of damp air.

FORCING HOUSE.

In this house as much air should be admitted as pos-
sible. All the doors and movable windows may be
constantly open, except during windy or stormy weather,
and then they ought to be only so far closed as to insure
safety to the house. Were it not that our glass roofs are
somewhat permanently fixed, it would be better wien
the grapes are all cut, to take off the glasses and leave
the vines entirely exposed, as the rains would wash ou<
many insects, and the birds assist in destroying the re
mainder, which would, in many instances, save much
labor in artificial cleaning without injuiy to the vines,
as the wood is now, or ought to be, pretty well ripened.

EETARDING HOUSE.

The operations of last month in the cold grapery will
now apply here, with the exception of maintaining a
temperature some 5° lower than there recommended,
and using a comparatively less quantity of water. Un-
less ''he weather prove veiy dry, it is best not to use any

196 THE GRAPE.

water at all inside the house, more particularly if mildew
makes its appearance.

OUR-DOOR CULTURE.

There is not much to do in this department at present,
further than keeping the continually extending growth
m check by pinching out the ends of the shoots, and the
ground free from weeds as previously advised. In some
localities the fruit will be ripenmg, and a word of caution
may be of service with respect to gathering the bunches.
Grapes are never in their best state, either for present
use or late keeping, until they have hung some time after
they appear ripe. The flavor is thereby v^ry much im-
proved, and the acid in a great measure removed.
Never gather a bunch of grapes until a portion of the
stalk nearest to the bunch is quite brown and partially
shrivelled, which is a sure indication that nature has
perfected the fruit. After this there is nothing to be
gained in quality by leaving them longer, but for winter
keeping it is advisable to let them remain on the vine
imtil they begin to shrivel and fall.

COLD GRAPERY.

It is expected that all the fruit is ripe excepting the
very latest varieties. Leave the house open at all times,
closing the ventilators only sufficient to prevent the grapea
from being spoiled during rains. Maintain a dry atmos-
phere, withholding water the remainder of the season.
Stop superfluous growth, as before advised, and see to
general cleanliness.

FORCING HOUSE.

Keep this house as open as possible, and be careful not
to let it become unduly heated. Do not use any water

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS. I'ii

further than is necessary to prevent the increase of
insects. An occasional watering with a syringe or force
pump, will not only preserve the leaves in a healthy
state for the remainder of the season, but considerably
assist in keeping the vines clear of insects by dislodging
them from the corners and crevices. This will prevent
their increase, and obviate the necessity of using tliose
strong washes which some persons consider indispensable,
and which, from their caustic nature, frequently injure tlie
cellular organs of the vines. Do not remove anymore
of the young growth than is necessary to give free light
to the main leaves attached alternately on the ripened
shoots, as too close cutting at this time has a tendency
to burst the buds which are intended to remain dormant
until the next forcing period.

RETARDING HOUSE.

The same directions as for Cold Grapery will also
apply here at present.

OCTOBEK.

The 'preservation of grapes beyond the usual period of
ripening is a great desideratum, and deserves something
more than a passing notice. Dryness is indispensable for
this purpose. We know that impoi'ted raisins are grapes,
which have had the watery portions evaporated by a
warm, dry atmosphere, leaving the sugary matter and a
part of the aroma. If after the maturity of the fruit, our
own climate was as dry and warm as that of southern
Spain, there would be no difficulty in keeping the fruit,
for we could let the clusters hang on the vines, and gather
them as wanted. As we have not their natural advantage
in this respect, we must imitate their climate as near as
W€ can.

198 THE GRArE.

There is a great difference in the keeping properties
of many of the varieties. For instance, the Frontignans^
Muscats^ and several of the Chasselas, though early soils,
will dry up and shrink so much that they become partially
raisined, and in such state will not decay, providing they
are kept in a dry atmosphere, free from frost and sus-
pended upside down, so that the berries hang loosely.
There are others that have a solid texture, approaching
that of an apple, as Reine de Nice, White Lisbon, &c.,
which, by having the bunches cut into small parts and
laid upon a shelf in a good fruit room, wrapped with cot-
ton wadding, will keep for several months, while the
Hamburgs, and other tender-skinned sorts, soon decay
after they are fully ripe, and no means has been devised
to keep them for a length of time.

Grapes, both foreign and domestic varieties, may be
kept a long time by choosing perfectly ripe bunches, and,
if large, cut them into small parts, removing any decayed
berries, and sear the end of each stalk Avhere cut, with a
red-hot iron, exposing them afterwards in a very dry
room for three days. Have in readiness some soft tissue
paper, and wheat bran that has been well dried by fire
heat. Wrap each small cluster in a piece of the paper,
place in a glass jar, and fill in between with a small por-
tion of the bran, and so proceed till the jar is filled, each
cluster of fruit being surroimded and covered with the
bran. Place a paper over the top, and stretch a piece of
bladder over this to exclude the air. Let the jars be
stored in a dry, cool room, where the temperature is kept
at 40° to 45°, and use each jar as may be required.
Glazed earthenware, or air-tight boxes, will answer as a
substitute where glass jars cannot be had, always keeping
in a dry atmosphere. I may add, in connection with this
subject, another method. Last April, Mr. Cole, a neigh-

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS. I'.ii)

bor of mine, brought me a beautiful bunch of Isabella
grapes, as fresh and plump as when first cut from the
vine. This had been kept with others in a glazed earth-
enware jar, which was buried two and one-half feet deep
in his garden. The flavor was somewhat deteriorated,
b\it the experiment is well worth repeating.

OUT-DOOR CULTURE.

Continue to gather fruit, and see the last month's ad-
vice.

COLD GRAPERT.

No water must be used inside the grapery, and a free
circulation of air be maintained, so as to prevent any
condensation of moisture upon the fruit. During damp
or rainy weather the upper ventilators may be partially
left open, which will have a beneficial influence, preserv-
ing the texture of the skins, and preventing moldiness.
If this is attended to in a house where there is no artifi-
cial heat, the fruit may be preserved on the vines until a
severe frost is apprehended.

FORCING HOUSE.

FoUow the same direction as last month.

RETARDING HOUSE.

In the retarding house, where the berries are now col-
oring, the bunches of some kinds may be preserved until
late in March by simply keeping out the frost by fire
heat, and giving air at all favorable opportunities through
the winter.

NOTEHIBEB.

Most of our labors for the present season are now fin-
ished, and according to good or bad management so have

200 THE GKAPE.

been the results. In consequence of a wet and cold sea-
eon, the wood of all out-door grape-vines, and also that
in most cold graperies may not be thoroughly ripened,
which renders it necessary to assist by artificial means to
make up the deficiency. This in out-door culture, may
be done by removing the superfluous shoots, thus allow
ing the sun to act upon the branches, and further concen-
trate or ripen the juices, thus reducing the quantity of
aqueous matter contained in the vine. Do not, however,
injure the leaves on the remaining branches, as respira-
tion would be checked, and the object intended to be
gained prevented. It is advisable to follow up the same
course with late crops under glass, and, in addition, to
deviate a trifle from general practice by keeping the
house a little warmer than usual. This may be accom-
plished by keeping the lower ventilators closed, by
which a higher temperature will be maintained near the
bottom of the house. A free cu-culation, quite sufficient
for all purposes, may be admitted by the upper openings.
A genial and dry atmosphere will thus be secured, which
will enable the vines to complete the ripening process
without check, and if the house be entirely closed at
night when there is danger of frost, the leaves will be
kept in a growing state for a longer time. Never let a
grape-vine leaf be injured by extreme cold before it is
mature, if it is possible to avoid it. So long as it remains
green, it is doing service to the vine. In a healthy plant
of any kind, when nature has accomphshed her purpose,
she will cast off" the useless parts, and any interference in
this particular leads to injurious effects.

OUT-DOOR CULTURE.

Where new plantings are intended, the early part of
tliis month is the best time for making preparations, as

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS. 201

the needful operations can now be executed much better
while the ground is in good working order, and not satu-
rated with water. For the vineyard, drain if necessary,
plough a deep furrow, and follow with the subsoil plouoli ;
or when only of small extent, trench two spits deep.
Nothing will be lost by the extra labor. If the soil be
not naturally very fertile, add a good dressing of barn-
yard manure, or an abundance of rotten leaves.

Those who only wish to plant a few hardy vines, and
have their land in a good state for the purpose, may do
so at the commencement of this month. It is not advisa-
ble to defer it later in the season. The best choice of
plants is generally to be obtained in the nurseries at this
time, which is an object. If removed early enough, and
the roots are kept moist until they are again planted,
they will be in a good condition for a vigorous start in
the Spring. •

COLD GRAPERY.

The Cold Grapery will require to be as dry as possible ;
keep the ventilators continually open, partially close in
damp or rainy weather, but maintain a free circulation of
fresh air. If frost be expected, shut up close at night,
remove all decaying berries, and see to general cleanlJ
ness.

FORCING HOUSE.

The wood in the forcing house ought now to be tho-
roughly ripened, with no leaves remaining, which is a
seasonable time to prune. After pruning, remove all the
loose bark, and clean well around the bases of the spurs to
prevent insects lodging therein. Wash the vines with
the preparation advised on page 65, taking care not to
injure the buds. Keep the house as cool as possible, and
let the vines rest so until the time to commence forcing,

202 tiil: grape.

which will be according as early or later grapes are want-
ed. To obtain ripe fruit by the middle of April, com-
mence at once, and if in May, it will be required to begin
by the middle of December, and later in proportion. [See
page 84.) Such extreme artificial culture should not be
attempted by the novice, however, as it requires con-
siderable experience, and is attended with much care and
expense.

RETARDING HOUSE.

In the retarding house, where there is a heating ap-
paratus, a gentle fire should be applied, if frost in the
night be apprehended, but admit air freely, excluding
any moisture.

OUT-DOOR CULTURE.

Excepting in the most northern or north-westeni pans
of the country, the pruning of the hardy kinds of out-
door grapes may be proceeded with. It ought not, how-
ever, to be done during severe frost. Where the land
will still admit of being worked, the upper soil should be
loosened with the fork, some four or five inches deep,
over the whole surfiice ; after which a mulching of de-
cayed leaves, vegetable refuse, or barn-yard manure, will
more than repay the cost. On a large scale this might
seem tedious, but it does not alter the case ; for if good
attention and the best culture will pay on a small scale,
they will be found equally remunerative in extensive
culture. Depend upon it, one of the main secrets of
making grape-culture pay, in all the varied departments,
is in enabling each vine to do its best. Never attempt
more than you have capital, convenience and energy to
carry out.

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS. 203

COLD GRAPERT.

If the vines in the Cold Grapery have not been pruned,
do it at once, after which clean and wash with the mix-
ture recommended on page G5. After this operation,
prepare for covering, by bringing the vines down to a
horizontal position along the line of planting. Tie the
cane loosely to the nearest wire, about two or three feet
from the ground level, so that when the head is brought
down, this lower portion will remain in a nearly perpen-
dicular position. Next draw the upper portion down to
1 level, and tie it to the wires or stakes in a horizontal
position. Lay the next in like manner alongside the
first, and so on, until near the other end of the house,
where some three or four canes will have to be reversed.
Tliey are now ready for the covering. This for young
plants need be only a three-inch coating of straw tied
around with twine ; but for older vines, that have got
spurs on, it is more convenient to use long boxes, made
deep enough, and nailed together without a top. Tliese
inverted over the rows, make a neat covering. The
effectual method, however, is to fix boards along the
front of the vines, and close to them. Fill in the space
thus formed along the front of the house with dry tree-
leaves. The vines are thus enveloped in a good non-
conducting material that will maintain a low yet even
temperature through the winter. It is difficult to con-
vince some persons that these exotics require such effect-
ual protection, but the extreme cold of the last few win-
ters has in part convinced them of its necessity. Through-
out the winter let the houses be kept cool, by opening
the ventilators every clear day, and close up at liif^l.*., o^
at all times when the weather is cloudy, and during
severe frosts.

204 THE GRAPE.

FORCING HOUSE.

The directions for last month, and a reference lo ,..ai>o
84, will apply for this month.

RETARDING HOUSE.

In the Retarding House, where tne grapes are oi.iy
ripe, maintain a dry but cool atmosphere, and keep out
frost by slow fires. Let the thermometer range from
45° to 50° at night, and 52° to 60° with sunshine.

Young vines propagated and grown in pots the pres-
ent year may be plunged to the rims in a box frame.
Fill in over the heads with leaves or straw, and place
shutter or glass sashes on the top. They may also be
preserved inside a Cold Grapery, or shed. The hardy
kinds, too, that have not ripened well, and are intended
for replanting next spring, will be benefited by lifting
and heeling-in close together in a trench, covering the
tops with earth, or a thick layer of evergreen boughs.
Straw out of doors becomes saturated with the winier'ft
rains, and is worse than useless.