PNT1NGDOG

WARREN H.MILLER

From the collection of the

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Prelinger
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San Francisco, California
2006

THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG
WARREN H. MILLER

THK TEiNSE MOMENT QUAIL SCEXT !

THE AMERICAN
HUNTING DOG

MODERN STRAINS OF BIRD DOGS AND
HOUNDS, AND THEIR FIELD TRAINING

BY
WARREN H. MILLER

Former Editor of Field and Stream

AUTHOR OF "CAMPING OUT," "RIFLES AND SHOTGUNS,"

"THE BOY'S BOOK OF HUNTING AND FISHING,"

ETC.

ILLUSTRATED

D. APPLETON AND COMPANY
NEW YORK : : 1929 : : LONDON

COPYRIGHT, 1919, 1926, BY

D. APPLETON AjND COMPANY

Copyright, 1916, 1917, 1918, by Field & Stream Publishing Co.

PUNTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA

PREFACE

THIS volume is written to furnish an up-to-
date book confined exclusively to the breeds of
American hunting dogs in use to-day. Without
a dog, sports afield are apt to prove rather barren
in results in the game bag. Never before have
American sportsmen relied so much on the dog as
a finder of game. Our coverts are depleted com
pared to the abundance that obtained thirty years
ago. It takes the fine, sensitive gift of a dog's
instinct to locate game nowadays. Without him
the day is likely to be one of exasperation due to
game flushing without warning or good covers
hunted without starting anything. With him a
satisfactory day's bag can be had in any part of
our country where there is wild land, even quite
near the great cities.

The love of a dog is a fine and noble thing.
There is no quid pro quo in his affection. He has
no thought of service for hire, nor reward for his
invaluable aid, save that you love him as he loves
you. All the rest is service, given freely and

vi PREFACE

loyally. To combine this dog-love with the won
derfully gifted genius of a fine hunting dog seems
the acme of canine destiny. If you are to own a
dog, or several of them, why not have one that
can share and appreciate your days in the great
outdoors !

In all this age of hustle and change there is one
subject that is timeless, perennial — dogs. They
do not change — thank heaven ! They are with us,
as always, our hunting friends, our home guards,
our bosom chums. Here in this volume we col
lected with much effort a rather complete Who 's-
who of dogdom in all the more popular hunting dog
breeds. The great dog families do not change.
You will find them to-day producing champions
as of yore. All you have to do with the dog
famous to-day is to connect him up by his dam
and sire with the great hierarchies given in this
book for seven generations back, and you know all
about him there is to know. The matter is of im
portance to the dog buyer, for the pedigree of
his pup is his only guide as to what sort of dog
he may expect. Any pedigree sent you by a dog
dealer to-day will surely connect with the pedi
grees in this book or else it may be regarded with
suspicion.

The subject of raising and training dogs is

PREFACE vii

timeless. There is nothing new to offer. I wish
there was one thing new, a sure serum for dis
temper. That dread scourge is still unconquered,
but we at least have had a considerable advance
in the potency of the serums in the last five years.
I would like to call your attention here to the
last half of this book. It is of most unusual for
mat. Instead of an academic discussion, I used
here excerpts direct from life on all matters con-
nected with training, feeding, and hygiene of dogs.
During the seven years that I was editor of Field
& Stream^litersilly thousands of inquiries similar
to these came in to me. I doctored dogs by mail
all over the country. It was part of my regular
editorial work, and drew no reward save the
thanks of anxious dog owners, but these letters
are rich and racy with the life of hunting-dog
people. You see us there, not merely talking about
the sick dog but doing something for him. The
same with training, correcting faults, feeding,
housing, all the thousand and one things that come
up in connection with our four-footed friends. I
know of no more forcible way of presenting to you
your own dog problems than to let you see us
actually solving them, a real owner writing the
inquiry, the editor replying to the best of his
ability. And I'll match any human doctor as to

viii PREFACE

the per cent of those who died compared to the per

cent who got well !

The purpose of this volume is to tell how to
choose a hunting companion intelligently from the
selection of dogs that are living to-day; how to
raise him from puppyhood to maturity; how to
train him for staunch and efficient field service;
how to doctor him when he is sick and how to keep
him well.

WABBEN H. MILLEB.
EAST GLOUCESTER, MASS.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER PAGE

I HISTORICAL NOTES ON THE HUNTING DOG . 13

II WHO'S WHO IN BIRD DOGS 38

III WHO'S WHO IN HOUND DOGS 55

IV SPECIAL FIELD DOGS ~. . . 68

V PUPPIES 85

VI DOG BREEDING . 105

VII KENNEL CONSTRUCTION ....... 7 . 114

VIII DOG TRAINING 129

IX DOGGY QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS 166

X DOG DISEASES 198

ILLUSTRATIONS

THE TENSE MOMENT — QUAIL SCENT . . . Frontispiece

PAGE

CHAPTER II: 48

A STANDARD LLEWELLIN SETTER
Two SOUTHERN POINTERS ON QUAIL
CHARTS:

THE LLEWELLIN HIERARCHY AT A GLANCE
A WELL-BLOODED IRISH SETTER PEDIGREE
A TYPICAL ALFORD'S JOHN HARD-CASH POINTER

PEDIGREE

A PEDIGREE SHOWING THE C^ESAR-RANCOCAS
JACK BRANCH OF THE LLEWELLINS

CHAPTER III: 64

TYPICAL RABBIT BEAGLE — OUT FOR A DAY'S

HUNT
FOUR CRACK LLEWELLINS — ODESSA (pointing),

LANARK LAD, GYPSY NOBLE, AND TONOPAUGH
MOMONEY II — A CRACK FIELD TRIAL SETTER
THE LLEWELLIN SETTER "BOAZ"
TYPICAL TENNESSEE REDBONE COON HOUND
DIME, PENNSYLVANIA COON HOUND
LADY BELLE B — RABBIT BEAGLE
AIREDALE TERRIER, CH. ILLUMINATOR
THE CHAMPION POINTERS "MANITOBA RAP" AND

"ALFORD'S JOHN"

CHAPTER IV: 80

THE CULBERTSON AIREDALES — A FAMOUS LION
PACK

ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE!

IRISH SETTERS, USED FOR PRAIRIE CHICKEN
Two AIREDALES WITH A BEAR AND A LION TO

THEIR CREDIT
MR. DOOLEY, ONE OP THE BEST BRED IRISH

WATER SPANIELS IN THE UNITED STATES
TONY T. AND BESSIE — NOTED CHESAPEAKES
GREYLOCK — A FINE AMERICAN-BRED GRIFFON

CHAPTER V: 96

A NICE LITTER OF SETTER PUPPIES, Two MONTHS

OLD

ENGLISH SETTER PUPS ABOUT FOUR MONTHS OLD
THREE POINTER PUPS ON POINT AT Two MONTHS
RETRIEVER AT Six WEEKS AGE — PUP BY SIR

ROGER DE COVERLEY AND BLUE GIRL JANE

CHAPTER VI: 108

A GRADUATE IN RETRIEVING — 13-MoNTHs SETTER

PUP

LOOKING FOR MOTHER
A SMALL FAMILY OF CHESAPEAKES, HUSKY AND

WELL-NOURISHED
Too MANY PUPS FOR HER TO FEED PROPERLY

CHAPTER VII: 120

BROOD MATRON KENNEL

KENNEL FOR Two 60-LB. HUNTING DOGS

THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

THE AMERICAN
HUNTING DOG

CHAPTER I

HISTORICAL NOTES ON THE HUNTING DOG

THE dog dates back to geological times. In the
Pleistocene we have a great dog, twelve feet long,
distinct from the wolf of that period, whose skele
ton has come down to us nearly intact. While
dogs, wolves and foxes are closely allied, the in
terbreeding of wolves and dogs alone is well au
thenticated. There is no well established account
of any crossing of foxes and dogs, though I have
seen several small dogs in the South that looked
so exactly like foxes that one could almost believe
the negro's story that a true cross had been made.
It seems more improbable than a cross of wolf and
dog, for the bonal structure around the eye of
the fox differs materially from that of the wolf
and dog, and it is a question whether the pro
toplasmic cells would unite.

The principal specific difference between the
fox species and the wolves and dogs is in the pupil

13

14 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

of the eye, that of the fox being cat-like, in shape
similar to the cross-section of a lens, and that of
both wolves and dogs being round; and the fox
eye, in turn, owes its shape to the bonal structure
of the eye, which is the principal skeletal differ
ence between the skull of a fox and that of dogs
and wolves.

From the earliest records of man, however, the
dog appears as a domesticated animal. The cave
men of all periods have left both the bones of
dogs, and bones gnawed by them and since fos
silised, and they were undoubtedly used as hunt
ing companions and watch dogs by our very earli
est forebears.

The earliest known relic of man, except the man-
ape (pithecanthropoid) is the skull found at Tal-
gai, in Australia, antedating even the famous Pitts-
down skull which put the ancestry of man back
in the Pleistocene. The Australian skull is in
teresting for two reasons ; it was found in deposits
of a time when all the animals of Australia were
marsupials, and it is surrounded with the bones
of dingo dogs and marsupial bones gnawed by
those dogs, besides others broken by the man.
Now, as these two were the only non-marsupials
in all the deposits of that period, it follows that
the man must have come to Australia and brought

HISTORICAL NOTES 15

his dingo dogs with him, showing a high degree
of intelligence in the man and the fact that even
then he had domesticated the wild dog to be his
hunting companion. The vast antiquity of this
skull, coupled with the fact that for no less than
three times the apes have perished off the earth
and been re-developed, argues that man himself
is older than the apes of to-day which Darwin
thought were our progenitors. Present-day geolo
gists (even Darwin himself would so argue, if he
were possessed of our latter-day discoveries);
argue that, if anything, the ape is a degenerate
man or an evolution from the dog, while man is
sui generis, traceable as yet to no lower animal.
This has long been my own theory — I have always
rejected the whole of Darwin's descent of man as
illogical when we consider what we know of man
from his earliest records — whereas the degenera
tion of man is very patent, even to-day, when we
can see on the earth many types that are far in
ferior in intelligence, devotion and conscientious
ness to a good setter dog, with his highly trained
reason, his sense of honour, obedience, courage,
his fidelity to his duty in his sphere in life, all of
such an order as to proclaim him possessed of a
soul, certainly more so than are the lowest types
of humans.

16 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

Coming down into historical times, the earliest
Egyptian and Biblical records contain mention
of the dog, and in Egypt they had already been
bred into at least two types, the guard dogs for
flocks of sheep, and the hunting and coursing dogs
used in the chase, both of which types are pic
tured in stone hieroglyphics and mummy-case
decorations. Both the drop-eared and prick-eared
types are represented. The latter came directly
from the wolf and jackal; as to the former, no
skeleton can show, but the cave men had them if a
broad skull like a modern setter or hound bespeaks
a lop ear. My own theory is that for the guard-
dog type the ear was gradually extended, due to
the demands of the business for good hearing, un
til it fell over of its own weight, thus forming
the drop-eared type. As to nose, both kinds had
equally good, as witness the wolf to-day, a prick-
eared type which is as good a tracker as runs.

By Roman times three distinct types had been
developed, called by them the sagaces (trackers),
celeres (coursers) and pugnaces (fighters).
Drawings and pen pictures by Eoman writers
would place these types as represented to-day by
the coonhounds and bird dogs for the sagaces,
greyhounds, wolfhounds and collies, for the ce
leres, and bulldogs, terriers, etc., for the pugnaces.

HISTORICAL NOTES 17

The generic name " hound" comes from the same
root as "hunt" and signifies a dog used in hunting.
The Assyrians, Greeks, Persians, Egyptians, Ro
mans and Teutons all had dogs for both hunting
and war, and the pugnaces were as much war dogs
then as any other destructive agency that could be
used in augmenting military force.

The day of the Roman shaded gradually into
mediaeval times when the dog developed into still
other types, particularly with the introduction of
missile weapons. House dogs were bred small so
as to be suitable for milady 's boudoir, one of the
most ancient lap-dog breeds being the spaniel,
whose name tells us he was developed in Spain,
probably in the tenth century and possibly of
yet earlier lineage from the Saracens, for we find
the same breed in the Chinese court spaniel, dating
back for untold centuries in the Chinese records,
showing that the same dog developed originally
somewhere in the then populous Euphrates valley.

From the times of the Romans through the Dark
Ages no record has been left of the development of
the dog, but from early tapestries and paintings
we note a big variety of them. The heavy dog of
the Assyrians comes down into mediaeval times as
the mastin of the French and the mastiff of the
English ; the coursing dog of the Egyptians, long

18 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

and leggy, has his counterpart in the Scottish
deerhound and the greyhound, while the hounds of
St. Hubert (llth century) were quite evidently
what we would call bassets to-day. The English
greyhound was a much smaller and shorter legged
dog than to-day and his name meant "badger"
hound, later developed for speed in coursing hares
as the badger grew scarce. In point of fact, even
the cave man knew enough to mate fast dogs to
gether to establish a racing type, heavy ones for
war dogs, small ones for lap dogs, etc., and for
this reason many breeds have been developed by
a simple process of selection, just as we can breed
out a bulldog cross on spaniels in eight genera
tions.

Some of the old breeds have become extinct,
such as the Irish wolfhound and the staghound,
the former of which was re-established not over a
hundred years ago, and the latter never having
been restored, its nearest representative to-day
being the Scottish deerhound. On the Continent
the name "hound" was applied to all dogs; in
England to hunting dogs only, the Saxon word
"dog" covering all breeds. Owing to the change
in type to meet new forms of chase, the breeds of
the times of the knights looked little like the ani
mals which bear the same name to-day, and many

HISTORICAL NOTES 19

of the old names have been dropped. Of Shake
speare's "Mastiff, greyhound, mongrel grim,
hound or spaniel, brach or lym" how many sur
vive as they were to-day f The brach was the old
name for the coursing hound, the lym for the
tracker. "Spaniel" meant three types of dogs,
represented to-day by the springer, setter and
water spaniel. The spaniel, undoubtedly brought
from Asia to Spain by the Saracens, was first
mentioned in books by Gaston de Foix, a French
count who was a master huntsman with his county
adjoining the Spanish frontier. His book, "Livre
de Chasse, ' ' written in 1387, mentions the spaniel
as the "hound for the hawk," describing a dog
very like the modern field spaniel, the same as
the ancient springer whose duty was to spring
the game for the hawk. Once a-wing, the hawk
would bring him down. Quoting Gaston de
Foix: — "It is a good thing for a man that hath
a noble goshawk or a tiercel to have such hounds.
Also when they are taught to be cheins couchant (I
give the exact French so you can get the signifi
cance of it) they are good to take partridges and
quail with the net. And also they are good when
they are taught to swim for fowls when
they have dived. . . ." Here, before 1387, we
have the beginnings of all three modern dogs, the-

20 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

springer, setter and the water spaniel, all devel
oped from a silky coated, white or speckled dog
with a docked tail (even then) which was feath
ered if allowed to grow. The battle of Crecy was
fought in 1342; Poictiers in 1356, and no doubt
Gaston de Foix came up from his huntings in the
south of France to take part as a mailed knight in
both of these battles. A print in Count de Foix'c
old book shows three of his spaniels, a large wavy
coated dog with long bushy tail looking something
like a modern setter, two coursing hounds, and
two lyms or tracking hounds, both pairs drop-
eared. The spaniels are shown springing into the
air on hind toes with fore feet outstretched, much
as a cocker spaniel does to-day, and barking, evi
dently scaring birds into flight for the talons of
the hawk.

In 1576 Dr. Caius describes all three spaniels as
different varieties, "The Dogge called the Setter
or Canis Index, and the Dogge called the Water
Spaniell or Canis Aquaticus," being described as
to appearance and usage at great length. We
quote his description of the setter of 1576. "An
other sort of dogge be there, seruiceable for fowl
ing, making no noise either with foote or tongue,
while they followe the game. These attend dili
gently vpon theyr master and frame theyr condi-

HISTORICAL NOTES 21

tions to such becks, motions, and gestures as it
shall please him to exhibit and make, either going
forward or drawing backeward, inclining to the
right hand or yealding to the left. When he hath
f ounde the byrde he keepeth sure and fast silence,
he stayeth his steppes and will precede no further,
and with a close, couert, watching eye layeth his
belly to the grounde and so creepeth forward like
a worme. When he approacheth neere to the
place where the byrde is, he layeth him downe and
maketh a marke of his paws, betrayeth the place
of the byrdes last abode, whereby it is supposed
that this kind of dogge is called Index, setter, be
ing indeede a name most consonant and agreeable
to his quality." Sounds like a page from Field
and Stream, describing the work of a setter this
year of grace 1918, yet this was before they began
"shooting fly ing " at all, the first arquebuses used
in birding being of date around 1583, when that
beautifully inlaid, gem-incrusted, light hunting
arquebus was made for Henry IV of France.

The water spaniel was bred for close woolly coat
and used much as in present times, to retrieve
ducks, chase "crips," and besides to retrieve float
ing arrows and crossbows bolts, which function
has of late fallen into some disuse. In general
he has changed little from that early date in ap-

22 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

pearance, not nearly so much as has the setter.
With the introduction of wing shooting with
arquebuses and the decline of hawking, the pointer
came forward. Hounds of the foxhound size were
employed to find single birds, which were then
flushed and shot on the wing. The setter was still
kept for net service, which was, curiously enough,
considered the higher form of sport and the more
aristocratic (probably because of the then newness
of wing shooting for single birds !). In one of the
old books occurs the following odd line: "The
setter cannot be degraded into a pointer, but the
pointer may be elevated to a setter, though of sec
ond class. " This idea probably had its origin in
the fact that the pointer could not then be de
pended upon to be staunch ; in fact, was required
both to find and flush birds, which would never
do in a setter, who had to hold his point while the
netters went around on the other side of the covey
and drew the net, the birds rising away from the
dog, and thus flying right into the net. Only the
best table birds were selected from a catch, and a
balance maintained between cocks and hens caught,
the rest being liberated, so the ancient sport of
netting quail was not as unsportsmanlike as it
looks. Once scattered in thick brush the pointer
came into his own, and as soon as wing shooting

HISTORICAL NOTES 23

became a fine art, about 1690, the net was aban
doned and the setter followed him as a gun dog.
Modern English setter history begins with Ed
ward Laverack 's book, "The Setter, " published
about 1835. By that time the breed, as we now
know it, had been well established from the setting
spaniel of 1600, and a number of notable strains
had been established by the sporting nobility of
England. In these latter days, after all the rum
ble-bumble about Laveracks and Llewellins has
died down, it seems curious that those earnest con
troversialists should have overlooked the fact that
Mr. Laverack did not have the only strain of Eng
lish setters, but only one among many. There
are hundreds of thousands of setters to-day who
owe their descent to neither the Laverack nor the
Llewellin strain. True, Mr. Laverack did get up
a happy nick that gave him dogs which could
sweep all before them at the English field trials,
and so were in great demand, but he did not, in
the nature of things, produce from his two dogs
Ponto and Old Moll, more than a very small per
centage of all the English setters in "blighty."
However, from these two came Pride of the Bor
der and Countess, two notable dogs ; besides Dash,
Dash II, Old Blue and Fred IV. Between Ponto
and Dash II are six generations, thirty-nine years

24 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

of breeding, during which time a large family of
prize English setters were developed in Mr. La-
verack's kennels. The dogs which interest us of
this strain were Pride of the Border and Fairy,
which latter came over in whelp to Blue Prince, a
son of Pride of the Border. Forty-six of their
descendants in this country became well-known
dogs and established the Laveracks here. Later
more Laveracks came over, Albert's Eanger, Al
bert's Woodcock, the Vandergrift dogs bearing the
kennel prefix Queen (such as Queen's Place Pride,
Queen's Flora, etc.), and then the Bloomfield Ken
nels, Mallwyd Sirdar, Stylish Sergeant, Dido B.,
MepaPs Queen B., Pera, etc., from which we can
pick up and place many of the kennel names on
present-day pedigrees.

Meanwhile Mr. Llewellin's dogs, starting with
Count Wind 'em, Count Noble and Gladstone, made
a tremendous drive in America. They were born
field trial dogs, full of speed and sagacity, and
their get established the Llewellins over here.
This is gone into more thoroughly in our chapter
" Who's Who in Bird Dogs," but for the purposes
of this historical chapter it will suffice to point
out that a great deal of harm was done to the true
setter type by judges giving great field trial win
ners place above those bred true to type. The

HISTORICAL NOTES 25

Llewellins were bred to great field dogs, regard
less of conformation or bench points and, while
this was a good thing for quail-shooting dogs all
over the country, it should have had no place in a
judge's estimate of a dog's worth as a true type of
English setter. There has been a lot of argument
about the name Llewellin as being unfair, because
a lot of dogs under that name have no right to it as
not being descended from the first Duke-Bhoebe
cross with the Laveracks. This is all beside the
mark ; the name Llewellin is very much needed, in
describing a division of the English setters, bred
for field trial work and not necessarily conforming
to bench-show standards, and if it should be named
after any one that man should certainly be Mr.
Pur cell Llewellin, who established this remark
able strain as a fact in the sporting world. The
Gleam dogs, the Whitestones, and a lot of others
are not true Llewellins, but this has little to do
with the matter. Time and again an outcross of
Laverack or other English setter stock has been
beneficial in improving the original Liewellin
blood, therefore by all means let us have the cross,
and yet class the dog as a Llewellin, this being
still his principal characteristic. Many of the field
trial winners to-day are great little game finders
and great setters, but if they are true English

26 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

ters, bred to the fixed type of the animal, then the
present hench-show winners are not setters ! The
sportsman of to-day will bear in mind that for our
widespread quail covers we need a dog of the
Llewellin type, bred for generations for fast wide-
ranging work; for grouse and all close covert
work the English or Laverack setter will give him
better satisfaction as he is closer to English fore
bears used to that kind of shooting.

The history of the pointer starts with firearms
used for fowling, the type having been begun as a
breed about 1650. Early prints and paintings of
the date of 1530 show a smooth-haired houndy dog
on point at ducks and birds with one forepaw
raised, while the hunters creep up on the birds
with matchlocks. These birds were shot sitting,
the dogs being used to find the birds and point
them, and this was undoubtedly the original
pointer. In 1711 the poet Gay wrote :

"See how the well-taught pointer leads the way,
The scent grows warm; he stops; he springs the

prey;

The fluttering coveys from the stubble rise
And on swift wing divides the sounding skies;
The scattering lead pursues the certain sight
And death in thunder overtakes their flight."

HISTORICAL NOTES 27

This was shortly after the introduction of the
flintlock as a fowling piece. It was invented in
1630, but did not come in to stay until the latter
half of the sixteen hundreds, and this poem is one
of the earliest mentions of wing shooting. A
very good pointer is shown in a painting of date
1786, white with black saddle and ticks, of good
conformation and much like our modern animal,
showing how far he had progressed since 1711.
Like the setter, the pointer was a standard gun-
dog breed in the kennels of the great lords, and so
a number of notable strains were developed, such
as the Duke of Kingston's black pointers, Col.
Hamilton's double-nosed Spanish pointers, the
rough-coated Eussian pointers owned by the Earl
of Powis, etc. A great number of Spanish and
Portuguese pointers were brought to England and
crossed on the native stock. The Spanish pointer
was heavy-bodied and small-headed in comparison
to his size, and his influence shows to-day in the
heavy buttocks of many of our pointer families.
Crossing foxhounds and setters on pointers to get
a faster dog was much practiced; at that time the
owners seeming to care little for the very much
better plan of selective breeding from the type
itself — so little were the laws of heredity and
atavism known.

28 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

In 1807 the pointer became fairly well typed,
Col. Thornton's Pluto and Juno being character
istic specimens, heavy-bodied dogs with small
heads and ears. Pluto was jet black and Juno
lemon and white, but there were plenty of tri
colours even before that time. His dog Dash be
came famous and sold for some $1,200. He had
one-third cross of foxhound with a correspond
ingly brushy stern, carried hound fashion, but
this seems to have been no particular detriment.

Modern pointer history begins with Ch. Bang.
This remarkable dog flourished about 1879-80, and
there is hardly a pointer to-day which does not
trace back to old Bang along at least one line,
generally two or three in-crosses of him, Jingo,
Mainspring, Ch. Mike, Ch. Priam, Young Bang,
Rip-Rap, and King of Kent are all Bang dogs.
All the Graphic, Croxteth, and Vandervort's Don
dogs are descendants of Bang. In our chapter on
"Who's Who in Gun Dogs," if you turn to the
pedigree of Rags Royal Pauper you will find that
all the sires and most of the dams in his fifth gen
eration ancestors are Bang dogs, son or grandson
of the old boy. With that pedigree in hand, and
this chapter, you have the whole history of the
pointers, from the pointing hounds down to the
present stud dogs, spread out in an unbroken

HISTORICAL NOTES 29

genealogy. Bang himself was a son of Hamlet out
of Vesta. These dogs in turn trace back to Juno.
Of other prominent pointers, whose names you
will come across in pedigrees contemporaneous
with Bang, are Beulah, dam of the great Beau
fort; and Sensation, grandson of Hamlet. Beau
fort is another Bang dog, being out of Beulah by
Bow, son of Bang, and Sensation is still another
of the same line, being descended from Hamlet,
father of Bang.

Turning now to the hounds, we find back in 1646
beagles, harriers, greyhounds (the old badger
hound), brachs or coursing hounds like the Scot
tish deerhound, and lyms, trackers like our mod
ern bloodhounds and coonhounds. The painting
by David Teniers of that date shows how much the
game and fish caught by the lords' hunting estab
lishment had to do with his meat supply. The
butcher in those days had little trade. The
noble's land, with its sea frontage and brooks full
of game fish, produced all the meat needed, and it
was conserved from year to year so that there
was a plentiful supply. The head falconer had
charge of all this work, and an important person
age he was, too. The ancient appeal of this living
from the land's bounty in wild life, as well as on
its agricultural product, moved Teniers to make

30 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

a painting of his own kitchen, showing the head
falconer surrounded by his dogs receiving the
day's toll of fish and game. Older men, the fisher
men, are bringing in salmon and sea fish, while
young and lusty varlets, the under hunters and
game keepers, attend to wildfowl, hares, haunches
of venison, partridges and pheasants, all of which
are shown in the greatest profusion. The dogs
are interesting as showing distinct types of
beagles, harriers, and coursers, looking very like
the modern greyhound. The older grey (badger)
hound, a leggy dog, thin and wiry, yet not over
knee high, is also in the picture.

Foxhounds and beagles interest us principally
as being the two great American hunting dogs,
for the useful and ubiquitous coonhound was later
developed as a foxhound and bloodhound cross,
while the beagle is bred both small for rabbits and
large, almost a counterpart of the harrier, for
hunting snowshoe hare in our northern tier of
states. In 1735 the first foxhound came to be
known as a distinct breed for coursing and track
ing foxes. The greyhound alone would not do ; he
had to be crossed with a tracker to give him the
necessary scent. During the nineteenth century
breeding to type was carried on extensively, and
numerous hunt packs were established all over

HISTORICAL NOTES 31

England, while the Henry strain was started by
importation in America. Washington's hounds,
like those of most of the Virginia gentry, were
importations from England and Ireland, which,
when worked in this country under our own con
ditions, gave rise to a faster, rangier type of dog,
more suited to our own country, and selection
from their descendants gave rise to the type
American foxhound, now recognised as distinct
from the English, and not judged from the same
standards. This breed, and the development from
it of the coonhounds, will be treated in the chap
ter on WhoVWho in Fur Dogs.

The beagle is a very old breed of hounds, being
first mentioned in 1475, when he was, as now, the
poor man's dog for coursing rabbits. In America
he is an institution, for no better rabbit dog ever
lived, and we use him for all small game as the
terrier is used in England. In 1558 the beagle had
become well patronised by royalty and was painted
by court painters, so that we know his type to have
been already well established, a small hound with
long, drooping ears, short pudgy body and throaty
neck. Queen Elizabeth had a kennel of them, and
one hundred years later George the Third (well
beloved of these American colonists) had a paint
ing made of himself with his beagle pack. They

32 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

appear to be small hounds, true to type, and a
later painting of date 1800 shows Col. Thornton's
beagles, quite the same as the modern bench win
ners. Their history in America begins with Gen
eral Rowett, of Carlinsville, 111., who got some of
the very best stock to be had in England, and a
Eowett beagle became the most sought-f or of dogs
by our own breeders. This takes us down to the
recent history of the breed, carried on down to
present stud dogs in the chapter on Whos-Who in
Fur Dogs.

A brief summary of the two spaniels will con
clude this chapter. Of course, the first hunting
spaniel was the springer or hawking spaniel, an
active, noisy, rather large dog of the spaniel type,
whose work was to spring birds for the hawk.
With the introduction of firearms a smaller,
quieter dog was wanted, and the cocker (or, as
previously called the " cocking spaniel ") was got
by selective breeding. Coming along at the same
time as the setting spaniel, which later became the
setter, was the water spaniel, now seen in the
modern Norfolk and Irish water spaniel. The
springer had nothing to do with the mod
ern Welsh spaniel or springer, but was named for
his function in hunting, and from him was devel
oped the modern field spaniel. This dog has had

HISTORICAL NOTES 33

an unbroken line of popularity, particularly in
England, but it was not standardised as a type
until 1876, which brings it too far down into pres
ent-day history for this chapter. The cocker de
veloped with the flint lock, considerable mention of
him being found in works dating from 1725 to
1813, when he had much the same characteristics
as now, a low, broad, short-legged, long-haired
dog. In general the cocker remained a small edition
of the springer until about 1880, when attention
was given to breeding to a fixed standard and a
nice lot of dogs began to be shown in America. By
that time the Obo strain had been well established
in England, and Obo II came over, a puppy im
ported in utero, dam Chloe II by Obo. To Obo II
we ov/e the present excellence of the cockers of
America. At the same time were imported Miss
Obo II and Obo Jr., which gave further impetus
to the strain, and succeeding these came the Cana
dian-bred Black Duke, the best cocker shown in
America. Duke Royal, son of Ch. Romany Rye,
set the pace on the Pacific Coast, and succeeding
these came Black Pete and Doc, who later became
the property of Mr. Wilmerding. Doc sired Red
Doc and La Tosca, two more good ones, and this
brings us down to present-day pedigrees, treated
more at length in the chapter "Who's-Who in

34 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

Bird Dogs." It should be noted that when Doc
went to Mr. Wilmerding he became the property
of a sportsman who worked him on game, thus
reviving the useful side of the cocker. Not one in
fifty spaniels to-day ever see a covert or scent
game, so that no wonder their progeny are gun-
shy, poor hunters, and require a lot of careful
training. Yet all over the east there is no better
hunter for cock and grouse than this same cocker.
The water spaniel is so odd in every particular
that he represents a wider development from the
original spaniels than even the setter. Big, rangy,
with tight curly hair, a spike tail with no brush,
this is an odd, specialised type that has come down
to us through many centuries. Except for colour
of coat and a few minor points, there is not much
to differentiate the Norfolk and Irish water span
iel; to us Americans they may be the same dog.
The Irish is red, in solid colour, the Norfolk, liver
and white, with liver ticks and with no topknot
over the smooth part of the face. Both are won
derful water dogs ; and have it in their blood since
the earliest hunting times, when they were sent
out not only for game, but for arrows and bolts,
and were even required to dive after fowl that
had escaped the hawk, or had been wounded and
had clung to the bottom after the fashion of ducks.

HISTORICAL NOTES 35

Used for hunting exclusively, they suffered from
no degradation to mere bench-show breeding, and
puppies got to-day can be depended upon to be
wonderful hunters, with good nose and all the af
fectionate spaniel traits. Here is a description of
him written by Dr. Caius in 1570. 1 1 This kinde of
dogge is properly called Aquaticus, a water span
iel, because he f requenteth and hath usual recourse
to the water where all his game & exercise lyeth,
namely waterf owles, which are taken by the helpe
and seruice of them in their kind. And princi
pally ducks and drakes, whereupon he is lykewise
named a dogge for the ducke, because in that quali-
tie he is excellent. With these dogge s also we
fetche out of the water such f owle as be stung to
death by any venomous worme, we vse them also
to bring vs our boultes & arrowes out of the water
(missing our markett) whereat we directed our
leuell, which otherwise we should hardly recouer,
and oftentimes they restore to vs our shaftes
which we thought never to touche or handle
againe, after they were lost, for which circum
stances they are called Inquisitor 'es, searchers and
finders."

That was 350 years ago, but you will find the
water spaniel just as good a duck dog now as then.
In America only a few years ago Mr. James

36 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

Watson, the famous dog authority, wrote that, "It
is almost as a curiosity that we must now view
the Irish water spaniel, and not as an essential in
wildfowl shooting," yet of late years conditions
have changed and we must now have either him
or the Chesapeake. The latter is well described
in our chapter on special hird-dog families, as are
also the Irish water spaniels now at stud. Before
them came such dogs as Barney, Mike, Skidmore 's
Shamrock, Judy, Old Irish Nell, and The O'Dono-
ghue. Mr. Olcott also had Chippewa Belle, a
daughter of Irish Queen, who was by Barney.
Chippewa 's sire was Dan, who was by Ch. Mike,
the Shamrock dog. Mr. Carson later brought out
Marguerite and Musha, and then came Dan
Malone, while Ch. Poor Pat and Erin's Float,
brought over by the Rev. T. Moore Smith of Scotch
Plains, N. J., brings us down to present-day stud
dogs.

Of the griffons and retrievers there is little to
mention here, the early history of these breeds be
ing covered in the chapter Who's-Who in Bird
Dogs, and of the special divisions of setters, span
iels and the like, most of them belong to such re
cent bench standards as to deserve no particular
mention in a general historical treatise. The
above will give the dog-loving sportsman a fairly

HISTORICAL NOTES 37

good panoramic view of the evolution of Ms
favourite breeds. Like the gun, and the art of
hunting itself, it is a story going far back into the
dim past, so far beyond the earliest records of
science and agriculture that we have only to
glimpse that shadowy figure of the Taigal man
and his dingo dogs, who visited Australia in Pleis
tocene times, to realise, not only how ancient is
man, but how ancient, also, is his trusty dog.

CHAPTER II

WHO'S WHO IN BIRD DOGS

THE life of a dog is but a short span of years
and for that reason the champion of to-day be
comes the stud dog of to-morrow and shortly we
hear no more of him. Meanwhile his name and
fame has crept into books which far outlive his
brief existence, and the dog's name graces numer
ous pedigrees ; his fame is secure in imperishable
type and the world knows that here is, or was, a
great dog and a mighty sire. The sportsman
owning a fine bitch decides to raise some pups to
keep for him her good qualities after she will have
passed away, and the question of what dog to send
her to at once presents itself. To the regular
breeder this is no quandary; he has at his finger
tips the names of all the producing sires in the
country and just what blood strains they repre
sent, and the advertising pages of his favourite
kennel magazines bristle with stud-dog cards, so
that he can pick and choose at will. But to the

38

WHO'S WHO IN BIRD DOGS 39

average sportsman who does not specialise in dog
breeding, yet owns a few trusty canine hunting
companions, the problem of how to breed his bitch
and where to send her is quite difficult to solve.
The sportsman's interests centre around his guns,
rods, canoes, outdoor gear, boats, dogs — every
thing in the wide world of the great outdoors, and
he must know a little about each without specialis
ing particularly on anything. To learn where to
breed his dog he refers to the dog books in his
library, but, while these are full of the names of
champions of yesterday, and lay down the pedi
gree lines of all the well-known dog strains, vir
tually every dog mentioned in the book turns out
to be either dead or retired, or, if still in the stud,
too old to produce really good pups. Even the
stud advertisements of the present-day papers are
practically Greek to the average sportsman; the
names mean nothing to him beyond that the dog is
evidently famous, though of what family he comes
is a sealed book to the sportsman, though plain as
daylight to the breeder.

Again, it depends upon what you want the dog
for, if an intelligent selection of a sire is to be
made. To send your grouse and woodcock bitch
to a champion field trial sire, bred for speed and
quail in the open, is to invite trouble, for the re-

40 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

suiting pups will be far below their mother's
standard as grouse dogs. You do not want range
and speed in a thick cover dog ; you want, rather,
a dog that will work close ; quiet and catlike ; with
a keen nose for the faint grouse scent — and the
rest is experience. So send her to a grouse sire
if you want pups that will be natural grouse hunt
ers, easy to train. Another consideration is to
avoid inbreeding and the constitutional weakness
that is the sure result of it, for you do not want
to lose your dog from distemper after spending
a lot of time and money on him and giving him a
place in your heart that will ache for many a year
after he is gone. If dam and sire are of the same
immediate ancestors the pups will be badly inbred,
but if of different families, harking back to remote
common ancestors with many outcrosses, you can
count on strong, hardy pups that will also be good
hunters. But do not look for the exact qualities
or markings of either dam or sire in them. The
family traits will be reproduced with exact fidel
ity, but the individual pups will take after grand-
sire, granddams, ancestors of the third and fourth
generation, etc., one or two of them perhaps being
good copies of the dam and sire themselves,
though even then possibly not inheriting their
mental traits.

WHO'S WHO IN BIRD DOGS 41

A little history will be first in order, after which
the family position of various dogs now in the
stud will be more clear in the reader's mind. Be
ginning with the English setters, we will confine
ourselves to the Llewellin or field trial setter, in
cluding the Laverack outcrosses, as many good
bird dogs have been recruited from the ranks of
the latter also. Many of the field trial setters of
to-day are half Llewellin and half "English" as
the generic name for a Laverack outcross from
the original Llewellin stock is termed by breeders.
This does not impair their hunting qualities at
all but rather improves their physical stamina and
mental makeup. The straight Llewellin stock de
scends from a few dogs originally imported into
our country from Mr. Llewellin 's strain of dogs
originated by him in England, which strain, the
famous Duke-Ehoebe-Laverack cross, showed
so many fine field qualities that they became
instantly popular here. The blood of these
dogs is in nearly all the great field trial dogs
that have won stakes here in the past two
decades.

The first famous Llewellins imported here were
Gladstone and Count Noble, the latter a son of
the great Count Wind 'em of England. By Count
Noble came Ch. Count Gladstone IV, who, to-

42 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

gether with Roderigo, Gath's Hope and Oath's
Mark, founded a great strain of American field
dogs. These were by the happy combination of
Gladstone's daughters bred to Count Noble, and
established high-class setters once for all in our
country, for, look at the long list of great dogs
bred from these four. To Eoderigo we owe, via
Antonio, Jessie Eodfield, Lanark Lad and Tony
Boy, to whom in turn we owe a number of great
dogs such as Ch. Mohawk II, "the blazing soul
of Roderigo," from whom come the Babblebrooks
of to-day. To Count Gladstone IV we owe Ch.
Lady's Count Gladstone, Count Danstone, Ch.
Sioux and Prime Minister (from whom we get
Count Bloodstone and Momoney of to-day). The
first two of these dogs are not straight Llewellin,
to the purist's point of view, as their dam was
Dan's Lady, who has Dash Ill's blood in her, a
Laverack dog out of a Laverack dam, making a
straight outcross, yet Lady's Count Gladstone
gave us Jessie Rodfield's Count Gladstone and
Count Whitestone, and the latter gave us Ch. Pio
neer and Ch. Prince Whitestone. At the same
time Count Danstone sired a number of famous
dogs now in the stud. Both of them are now
classed by all breeders as straight Llewellin, the
outcross being so far back.

WHO'S WHO IN BIRD DOGS 4S

We must not forget the great producing dams
in this sketch of the setter families. Oath's Mark
gave us Ouida F., mother of Dolly Manners by
Tony Boy, which latter dam (Dolly) gave us
Caesar and Dolly Manners II. Gladstone, bred to
Ruby II, gave us Ruby's Girl, the mother of
Count Gladstone IV and Ouida F. Jessie Rod-
field, Antonio's granddaughter, was granddam to
a number of noted dogs such as Count Whitestone
and Jessie Rodfield's Count Gladstone. The six-
generation pedigree of Blue Danstone's Duke,
printed herein, gives a very good bird's-eye view
of all the noted setter families which we have been
discussing and is a typical Llewellin setter pedi
gree.

Turning to dogs now in the stud we note such
names as Doc Whitestone, Gleam's Gladstone
Max, the Babblebrooks, Eugene M., Boaz, Master
Rodfield, Stedman's Count Whitestone, Count
Bloodstone, Momoney and Momoney II, Free
Lance, Master Ben, Sport Hiki, Ch. Candy Kid,
Ch. Benstone, etc. Who are they? The very
names of many of them place them at once. Doc.
Whitestone (Count Whitestone-Marian Mills II).
The Gleam dog, son of Count Gleam, who was a
son of Ch. Lady's Count Gladstone, the original
Gleam being a Laverack (Lincoln-Blake) ; the

44 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

Babblebrooks, sons of Ch. Mohawk II; Momoney
(Prince Algonquin, son of Prime Minister-Una,
daughter of Mohawk II) ; Master Ben, son of
Marse Ben, a Gleam dog; Sport Hiki, another
Gleam dog; Eugene M., national champion; Ch.
Candy Kid, second in the All-America in 1916
(Valle jo-Bond's Gypsy), a Pacific Coast breeding;
Free Lance (Mohawk II-Lady Freakstone) ; Mas
ter Kodfield (Ruby's Dan II-Marie's Sports Top-
sey); Ch. Benstone (Ch. Ct. Whitestone-Mayme
Gilchrist — a daughter of Marse Ben).

In all this welter of Llewellins we must not for
get the Laveracks, which are the setter fountain
head. Alongside the characteristic black ears
and partly black head, with white parting line and
the prominent forehead stop so characteristic of
the field trial setter, we must ever bear in mind
that long, lean head, all white with tan spots, tan
ears and gentle forehead stop, which speaks the
Laverack dog. For, as many of these pedigrees
show it is the Laverack cross that saves the
Llewellin from inbreeding and invariably pro
duces the great dog of the next generation. Look
at the original Gladstone bitches, full of Laverack
blood which, bred to Count Noble, produced the
heads of our winning setter families in America.

WHO'S WHO IN BIRD DOGS 45

Look at the Count Whitestone bitches, of some 50
per cent Laveraek blood through Queen Stella,
bred to Mohawk sires to-day to produce Derby
winners. And some of the best grouse dogs in the
country have been straight Laveracks, notably Sir
Eoger de Coverly, Ch. Deodora, Albert's Mallwyd
Mixture, Ch. La Besita, recent national champion.
During the last two years the notable preponder
ance of pointer wins in the field trials has been
due undoubtedly to too great inbreeding of
Llewellins, while the increase in setter wins of
1915 and 1916 shows up clearly, in the fresh out-
crossing of Laverack blood. In general it would
be the best side to lean to, in breeding grouse dogs
for eastern woods shooting; by all means send
your Llewellin bitch to a noted Laverack grouse
dog or his get if you don't want to have the dis
gust of hollering your head off at a wide ranger
who makes more noise in the dry leaves and
flushes more grouse than you will see in a day's
march, which will likely be your fate if your pup
is of straight field trial stock.

Taking the pointers of to-day we need not go
much farther back than four or five great names
that began to compete with the setters success
fully some seven years ago. Fishel's Frank,

46 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

Hard Cash, Manitoba Eap, Alford's John, Jingo,
Hal Pointer — these are the dogs we really started
with. They began with imported King of Kent,
Mainspring, Hops and Pontiac. King of Kent and
Hops gave us Eip Eap, who starred in the field
trials of 1889, becoming finally field champion.
Hard Cash owns Jingo and Hal Pointer as grand
parents. FishePs Frank is a combination of
Jingo and Eip Eap (FishePs Eip Eap-Boy's
Queen, a Jingo dog) ; Alf ord's John, the great dis
covery, is of Lad of Kent extraction, his father be
ing Dave Kent. He was discovered and brought
into the field trial limelight by the merest accident,
and his get are among the prominent winners to
day. Manitoba Eap is by Eipple, ex Lady Cy
rano, the former a grandson of Eip Eap, and Lady
a daughter of King Cyrano. Turning to the dogs
now in the stud, we find Silver Sides (Ch. Mani
toba Eap-King's Sister), Ch. Comanche Frank
(FishePs Frank-Lady Johns, a daughter of Al-
ford's John), Eags Eoyal Pauper (Hard Cash-
Alford's Eoyal Pauper), which ought to place him
as a grandson of Alford's John, the royal pauper
of dogdom. Then there is Champion John Proc
tor (FishePs Frank-Miss Mariutch), Security
(Hard Cash- Alf ord's Eoyal Eags), one of the best

WHO'S WHO IN BIRD DOGS 47

ever brought out, and Lewis C. Morris, the cham
pion of to-day (Fishel's Frank-Bessatina).

This gives a fair line on the pointer families
in the lead to-day, and the sportsman wishing
to breed his bitch can choose from any of
them not of his own direct line and avoid in
breeding, yet get a high-class field dog for the
sire.

Now, who won in the 1916 big field events ! Be
ginning with the United States Field Trials, held
at Grand Junction, Tenn., first was won by Joe
Muncie, a white and lemon setter dog by Jack
Muncie ex Miss Mathews. Second place was
taken by Lewis C. Morris, the Fishel's Frank
pointer just described. Third was won by Secur
ity, the pointer combination of Hard Cash and
Alford's John via Alford's Royal Rags. In the
Derby, the dogs whelped after January 1st of the
year previous, insuring the competitors to be pup
pies in their first year, first was won by Kirk's
Buss (Wise's Ruby's Sport-Kirk's Maude), a
Llewellin-Laverack white and orange setter dog;
second by Naponechee (Dan Piedmont-Lady
Reyno), a Llewellin; while third was divided be
tween Commissioners O'Crahu (Commissioner-
Count Whitestone's Lady Alice), which places
him, and Rap's Pansy Blossom (Manitoba Rap-

48 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

FishePs Missey) — 'nuff said! In the National
Field Trial Club's events, held at Calhoun, Ala.,
first was taken by Lewis C. Morris, second by
Gibraltar Ollie (Gibraltar-Comanche), a white and
orange setter bitch, and third by John Proctor
(FishePs Frank-Miss Mariutch). Among the
pups we find Gunner running first, a Free Lance-
Cotton Blossom dog; Attakapas Rap (Manitoba
Rap-Lady Ferris), second, and King Cy (John's
King-Bird's Dakotah Pride), third, a pointer
belonging to the Alford's John-King Cyrano
tribe.

In the All-America trials held at Denbigh,
N. D., Lewis C. Morris again took first, Frank's
Den (FishePs Frank-Becky Cott), second, and
Candy Kid (Vallejo-Bond's Gipsy), a white, black
and tan Llewellin setter, third. In the champion
ship stakes Candy Kid won the coveted first and
Joe Muncie, of United States Field Club fame, was
runner up, both setters. At the important South
ern Field Trial Clubs events at Leetohatchie, Ala.,
the all-age was won by John Proctor's Sister,
same breeding as John Proctor; second by Med-
ford Eugene, a Eugene M. setter dog, and third
by the pointer Adam G. (Rags Royal Pauper-Miss

Ch. Count Gladstone IV

Ch. Count Noble

Count Wind'em

Had 9 wins including

One of the greatest

the National Cham

setters ever imported. 1

pionship 1896, and a

Sired 36 winners. [Nora

Oh. Count Dan-

sire of 41 winners who •

stone (3490)

won 89 times. He has

Ruby's Girl

Gladstone

3 times a field

a monument erected

A producer of 6 who

trial winner in-
3 starts and a

to him in California
that cost about $800.

won 26 times. Sister
to Ch. Sue. [Ruby 11

sire of 17 win

ners.

Dan's Lady
Winner of 4 field trials

Dan Gladstone

Gladstone
Ch. Sue

'Blue Danstone
(4210)

and dam of 9 field trial
and bench winners.

Lilly Burgess

Oath's Mark
Esther

Won 2nd

Alabama all

Ch. Tony Boy (541)

Roderigo

age stakes

13 times a field trial

Ch. Antonio

Had 81 wins a

1902,and5th

winner and a sire of Had 5 field trials, 9

sire of 27winne

Nebraska all

many winners. He 1 bench wins and sired

The greatest s

age 1903, also

was one of the great- | 26 winners.

ter ever impo

many times

est winners and pro

ed.

bench win

ducer of his day. You

Bo Peep

ner.

Fairland Dot

all know him.

/Roi D'Oir

(6468)
A celebrated •

Laundress ^ |BeUe of Piedmoi

brood bitch jOuidaF. fGath's Mark rn^u

who is the dam

Little sister to the) Had 4 wins and a sire {>?_„

of many noted

noted winners "Al-

of 17 winners.

doss.

lene," "MarksRuby,"

and dam of Dolly

Ruby's Girl

Gladstone

Manners and Jessie

A producer of 6 who

Perry and other well

won 26 times. Sister

known dams.

to Ch. Sue.

Ruby 11

Ch. Lady's Count Glad

Ch. Count Nobl(

stone (1900)

Ch. Count Gladstone IV

See above.

Had 3 field trial wins

See above.

Ruby's Girl

including the National

See above.

Lady's Count
Gladstone's

Championship 1900; a
sire of 49 winners in

Count(6511)

cluding the noted Ch.

Bench wins in

Count Whitestone.

clude 3rd limit

His get has won 96

Hamilton 1906: ] times at public trials

Decatur Bell

2nd field trial) and more to hear

Dan's Lady /Dan Gladstone

A great pro-

class Fort

from. [ See above. \Lilly Burgess

ducer of

Wayne 1907;

many high

3rd in South

Ch. Rodfield (192)

Ch. Antonio

class and

ern Ohio all

Winner of 4 field

See above.

noted shoot

age stake 1906.

trials, and sire of the

ing dogs, Dr.

Lizzie Rhoades

field trial winners

W. M. Beck

A grand shooting

"Oakley Hill," "Ortez

ofClarkfield,

bitch.

Lad" and 36 other

Minn., her

winners with 95 wins.

Nellie Hope

owner, says <

she is a per

Catherine Glynn /Kingston

fect type,

ILucille's Nell

beautifully

marked and

fCh. Rodfield (192) f Antonio

has a won

See above. \ See above.

derful nose.

Rod Warfield (3083)

[Nellie Hope

Says she

Twice a field winner.

"picks 'em |

[Ch.CountDanst

up" after the IFoxv Warfield

Louise Danstone (287) -1 (3490). See abc

other dogs

A grand indi

Marks Spot

have gone

vidual and ex

by.

cellent brood

Count Gladstone

bitch.

High Land Bell (6198)

Count Ladystone

See above.

A great producer of

Dan's Lady

high class shooting

See above.

does.

(Redfield (192)

Nellie Noble (2551) See above.

[Florence Gladflt

THE LLEWELLIN HIERARCHY AT A GLANCE

ft

(Pa( Cloud No. 32297 (Sire)....
1

[Ok Pat Law (g^Bep Law

-WMM, aa£ss—

i

j

[Nola Shannon W. (Dam)

IPatAKing SftSSta-iB*

•••WM aeaas"'

A WELL-BLOODED IRISH SETTER PEDIGREE

(Mainspring (sufe! JSl

Jingo •!

r»,,QQr, TTT J

UtlltCi 13 IHJIJJJJ

Young Jingo

(Trinket's Bang fe^

Pearl's Dot
[Pearlstone

11 1I1R.CI/

Bang 11
Lloyd's Hebe

Hard Cash (7802)
ij

Brown's Bella

(King of Kent (£riamR h

H°IP^ C JBP

5

o!

Pointer (382)

Belle of Hessen

«rwM-t nt TToooon /Duke of Hessen
Sport of Hessen |Abbesg of Rent

(tr; T>

w 1

jg [Michigan Belle (S0^"gelle

w

1

Alford's John
(5346)

(Lad of Kent
Dave Kent 4
ITrissler's Daisy

(Frank
Cleade
IDow's Nell

Bracket
Renie
Duke's Lad
Gem's Floss
Wise Croxeth
Fannie H.
Bitler's Duke
McDonald's Nell

Alford's Royal
Rags (12741)

Hallie Jingo

Hal Pointer

King of Kent
Daisy

i Priam
Kent Baby
Bang Bang
Zanetta

(1241)

Jingo's Dot (667)

Jingo
Pearl's Dot

Mainspring
Queen III
Trinket's Bang
Pearlstone

A TYPICAL ALFORD'S JOHN-HARD CASH POINTER PEDIGREE

The

Llewellin Setter B O A Z No. 18045 F- D.

S. B.

CHAMPION JESSIE RODFIELD'S COUNT ( (Champion Count
GLADS TONE I Champion Lady's j Gladstone IV

Full brot

her to Count Wl

litestone, Prince !

Count Gladstone

N

Rodney and others; and the greatest field j
trial winner of that famous family of Llewel- ]

Dan's Lady
Champion Rodfield

^E

lins. He

was the greal

est bird-finding J

;ssie Rodfield

Llewellin of his day.

[

Maude Gladstone

o

«

DOLLY MANNERS 11
A litter sister of the great

C,sar;who-isfRancocasJack---{MaSLr-

noted for his splendid conformation and his
speed, style, range and endurance in the
field.

Dolly M

A PEDIGREE SHOWING THE CJ8AR-RANCOCAS JACK BRANCH OF THE
LLEWELLINS

WHO'S WHO IN BIRD DOGS 49

Turning to the grouse dogs, at the New York
State trials, first was won by Grouse Bo' (Victor
Bo '-Lady Count Okaw), an orange belton Laver-
ack; second by Crawford's Pennsylvania Tom
(Sims Glenwood Boy-Lady Chippewa), a Llewel-
lin-Laverack setter dog, and third by Dick, a Co-
manche Frank pointer. In the grouse stakes of
the Pennsylvania field trials, Lamberton's Mack
(Momone/y-Susan Howard!), a Llewellln setter,
won first; Count Gladstone's Glad (Lady's Count
Gladstone-Fairland Ruby), another Llewellin,
won second; and third was divided between Ida
Mae Whitestone (Babblebrook Joe-Lady Nancy
Whitestone), a Mohawk-Count Whitestone dog,
and Eugym Mohawk (Eugene M.-Wilson's
Betty Whitestone), a Eugene M.-Mohawk blood
blend.

Of course, in these great events you are bound
to meet the champions of to-day, sons and daugh
ters of the champions of yesterday, again and
again, as the same dog travels from one event to
the next where the stakes are big, and earns much
fame and money for his owner. The wins of a
big champion may exceed $5,000 in one season.
But in the smaller state and local field trials, while
you may not find the stars, you will find worthy

50 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

representatives of all the setter and pointer fam
ilies we have discussed, most of whom entered the
big events but were not good enough to win. But
in their local fields these dogs are generally able
to win over the general field, which in its turn is
composed almost entirely of Gladstones, Mohawks,
Whitestones, Eugene M.'s, Fishel's Franks, Raps,
Hard Cashs, Alford's John dogs, etc., as the pres
ent-day setters and pointers might be described in
general terms.

We cannot all afford championship dog fees,
but there is no reason at all why a look-over of
the winners of any of the dozens of lesser field
trials scattered throughout the country should not
give us choice of a dog having just the blood lines
we want to blend with those of our own dog, and
so universal is the distribution of the descendants
of the dogs we have been describing that virtually
no pointer or setter puppy alleged to be a Llewel-
lin which does not show some of the heads of the
family in his pedigree is worth bothering with, for
pups of the true stock are reasonable in price and
the performance of Derby winners of to-day shows
the blood to be still potent and the best there is in
the country. At the same time plenty of Laverack
outcross is not to be feared, particularly in a dog

WHO'S WHO IN BIRD DOGS 51

for woodland shooting. Sir Eoger, the Lingfields,
the Alberts, the Queens, Mallwyds, Wellingtons,
Uhlans, Ch. Deodora — these are Laverack names
that mean good grouse dogs as well as great bench
winners.

A glance at the Irish setters, for to my mind a
renaissance of that noble breed is about due in
our country. For your combined bird dog, salt
water retriever and hunting companion, handsome
and easy to keep looking presentable, the Irish
man is hard to beat. The owner of one of the best
collections of Irish setters in the country is Mr.
Otto Pohl, and his ambition is to place one of them
among our field trial winners. This kennel of eight
dogs comprises all field hunters, free from the
bench-show specialisation that has kept our Irish
setters back during the last decade. This tend
ency to specialise has done the fancy lots of
harm, as new sportsmen purchasers have been
loath to buy Irish setter pups that may not own
a hunting sire or dam for three generations back,
preferring English that they know will be natural
hunters, besides which the reputation for stub
bornness that the Irish setter has accumulated
also militates against him. And further, he is
hard to see in the woods, which is the only real

52 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

detriment he has. Two Irish stocks come to mind,
bred for field service through thick and thin, the
Law and St. Cloud stocks, and puppies from them
will be natural hunters, as their dams and sires
were before them. Both stocks are well repre
sented in the stud to-day, and plenty of pups are
for sale, so there is nothing in the way of your
owning a red setter if you want a dog for both
ducks and upland shooting, no matter whether
you live on salt water or in the prairie lake
country.

A little history, for a starter, and then we can
see where we stand with a pedigree such as your
dog dealer will likely send you. While Signal
and Blue Eock were the ancestors of many of the
Irish setters in our country, the stock has been con
tinuously enriched with fresh importations from
the "ould counthry," Finglas coming over some
what later, then Elcho, and of late Morty Oge.
Mr. Pohl, one of the foremost fanciers of the Irish
setter breed in the country, has recently imported
two more dogs of the kennel name Eheola which
seem bound to figure in future pedigrees, mingled
with his Law and St. Cloud stock. Virtually all
the above dogs were champions in their day. Ch.
St. Cloud III, the greatest of the St. Cloud stock,

WHO'S WHO IN BIRD DOGS 53

is a blend of Signal and Elcho, being by Con-
naught ex Eeddie. Connaught is Kildare-Bessie
Glencho, and Beddie, Babe Elcho-Queen S. A
typical Elcho dog is Nell Elcho, Fred Elcho (Duke
Elcho-Bed Bose), ex Bed Bess (Finglas-Bed
Nell), which gives you an idea of the blood lines.
The Culbertson Irish setters, of which many rep
resentatives figure in present-day pedigrees, may
be sketched in by the pedigree of Alan of Culbert
son, who was by Shamrock Signal (Signal-Flossie
Finglas) out of Lady Pat (Patencho-Blue Bock's
Maid). Of the Law stock Ch. Pat Law is Ch. Ben
Law-Claire P. A present-day stud dog is St.
Cloud's Kenmore (Ch. Heir at Law-Daisy Law),
while Ch. Conn-Law is the head of the family, de
feating the best imported dogs of late years.
They all get their peculiar kennel suffix from old
Shan Law of Ireland. Mortys Lad, a present-day
blend of Law and Morty Oge blood, is Shan Law
via his dam Glenariff Patsy, a daughter of Glen-
ariff Chieftain and Shan's Fannie. Ch. Conn-Law
is by Ch. Ben Law ex Elcho Bess, which places him
accurately enough. Most pup pedigrees that one
examines for blood lines to-day contain a good
deal of Law, St. Cloud and Morty Oge blood,
with perhaps a dash of Bockwood or Culbertson

54 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

appearing in dam or sire somewhere in the pedi
gree, and any pup with such blood in him is an
Irishman bred in the purple which will do to
train.

CHAPTER III

WHO'S WHO IN HOUND DOGS

AMEKICAN hunters are principally interested in
three big divisions of hounds — coonhounds, fox
hounds and beagles. They constitute three-quar
ters of all the hunting dogs used in the United
States. Of the three kinds, the coonhound is dis
tinctively American, the foxhound Americanised,
and the beagle almost unchanged from the fixed
English type. The coonhound is distinctly our
dog. Used for deer, coons, bear, wild cat and all
kinds of treeing " varmints," he has had as much
to do with the development of our country as the
pioneer himself. He was the pioneer's dog in
fact, and for the last three centuries has been the
hunter's dog all over the backwoods. In the old
days we had to take our meat as we found it, run
ning wild in the forests, for butchers and beeves
were not and the English grenadiers that we used
to kill for winter meat got scarce after '76. The
coonhound started with innumerable hounds
brought over by the settlers — French, English and

55

56 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

Spanish strains all being well represented — and
from a mixture of them, through a century of
training and breeding to high-class performers
only, came the American coonhound. The French
hound is more like him than any other recognis
able breed to-day; long-eared, rat-tailed, power
ful, gifted with an unequalled nose, he became the
well-known "potlicker" or " smell dog" of the
South, while the New England and New York
hounds, used mostly for deer and fast fur, devel
oped into famous fox-hunting strains, of which the
Buckfield, Portsmouth and Pennsylvania are rep
resentative. A good deal of foxhound was
crossed in on these latter to give more speed, the
Irish hounds of Maryland being used extensively
for that purpose, for these were then the best of
the old grey foxhounds of the South. In those
days hunting the grey fox was the principal sport
of the Southern gentry, and from Maryland to
Tennessee every wealthy planter had his pack of
grey fox dogs. Washington's favourite entry in
his diary, after retirement to Mount Vernon, was
"Ketched a fox to-day" — or two of them if the
luck was good! The grey fox was a slow little
beast and the long-eared hound was plenty fleet
enough. With the introduction of the red fox
from England and the North, all this was changed,

WHO'S WHO IN HOUND DOGS 5^

as "red" could outrun and simply play with these
old-time foxhounds, so new blood was imported
from England, and the American foxhound as we
know him to-day began to develop. Meanwhile,
the coonhound went his own ways. His job was
different, slow cold trailing, running deer and the
like, which called for breeding from great per
formers regardless of colour or family strains, so
that the coonhound is not a matter of big names
but rather of good strains in his selection for pur
chasing.

Davy Crockett, that king of bear and coon hunt
ers, had one of the best packs of the old South
ern coonhound, and, as he gave great numbers of
puppies away to political friends, lots of de
scendants of his dogs are extant to-day. His ex
ample was simply an instance of what was going
on all over the country, noted hunters giving or
selling puppies from their own packs of trained
dogs, no stud books being kept, and the result has
been an absence of anything like papers of pedi
grees among the coonhounds on sale to-day. That
the pup comes 'of a noted hunting ancestry is about
all one has to go on. Two strains are well known,
the Eedbone, an ancient breed of Southern coon
hound, and the J. E. Williams dogs. Williams ran
a kennel of his own up to about 1911 and kept a

58 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

large pack for his own use, as coon hunting was
his favourite recreation. The Eedbones, more or
less pure, or else crossed on Walker stock, are in
existence to-day and still going strong, quite a
few kennels advertising them.

Of the Northern hounds, the Buckfields orig
inated around the town of Buckfield, Me., and were
used for deer driving and fox hunting in the
Northern style, that is, the gunner standing on a
runway and shooting the fox ahead of the hounds,
just as deer are shot in the South. An aside here
seems inevitable on the oddities of sectional no
tions regarding the ethics of sport. Your North
ern still-hunter of deer looks with as much horror
on the driver of the South as the horse-and-hound
man of Kentucky does on the New Englander who
would dare to shoot a fox instead of running him
to a finish. Really, it is local conditions that gov
ern in both cases, and the ethics are equally
sportsmanlike in both. It would be impossible to
run a fox with hounds in the Northern mountains ;
also impossible to still-hunt a deer in the South
ern brushwood. You must have more or less open
country to run foxes to horse, and you must have
mountainous country to still-hunt deer. The best
horse could not keep up with a fox in the Ver
mont hills, so they are shot ahead of the dogs;

WHO'S WHO IN HOUND DOGS 59

no man can see a deer thirty yards in the South
ern brush, and so dogs must be used to drive them
past stands where one can see to shoot. That is
all there is to it, and there is no cause for the
hunters of one section to despise those of the
other.

Getting back to the Northern deer and coon-
hounds. The Buckfield strain seems to have orig
inated from a regular old-fashioned trailer dog,
Tige, and a fast bitch, Skip, a coarse-haired fox
hound, and therefore, probably one of the Plum-
mer or Sugar Loafs which were coarse-haired and
brindled in colour. One of the puppies of this mat
ing was the famous Gledhill bitch, who proved a
wonderful fox hunter, of endless staying quali
ties and able to work the fox in all kinds of
weather. She was bred extensively and is the dam
of the Buckfield strain. Among her progeny are
Dime Buck, Dime Dansforth, Bed Dime, Red
Sport and Tomey. The most famous hound of
the strain was Jim Blaine, out of the Buckfield
bitch, Pert, by a full-blooded Byron hound, of
which strain more later. As a rule the Buckfields
are coarse-coated dogs, red or tan, or red and blue
mottled, with now and then a black one, a throw
back to old Tige, who was solid black.

Of the old Redbones but little is known except

60 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

that they were one of the most prominent " na
tive " southern hound strains, true representatives
of the pioneer's coon and deer hound. No names
are available, but there are a number of kennels
in the South to-day which breed them more or less
pure, and the quality seems as good as ever. The
ones we have seen were all large, bony, black and
tan hounds, with long ears. Of the J. E. Wil
liams hounds more is known. Neely was one of
his best bitches, a black and white dog, lightly
ticked, large and rangy. Other good ones in his
pack were Bigun, Dan, Guard, Euler, Queen, De-
liah and Old Tom, and, as the stock is widely dis
persed in the southern and central States and
shows up well in the hunting qualities of pups of
that blood, it is highly prized by the trapping and
night-hunting fraternity. The Pennsylvania
hounds are a blend of the old native long-eared
Virginia hounds, and the smaller and faster
Maryland hounds with much more foxhound blood
in them. They are principally used for coon and
snowshoe rabbit hunting, and are found all
through the mountainous parts of the State, par
ticularly in the southern portion.

When we come to the foxhound a mass of his
tory and stud book records confronts us, and the
going is much easier. The American foxhound

WHO'S WHO IN HOUND DOGS 61

began with the introduction of the red fox into the
South. Before that the little grey fox afforded
all the riding and was easily trailed by the native
pioneer's hound. It seemed incredible to the gen
try of that period that the red fox could easily
lose their best dogs, and some red foxes had to be
imported from England to prove it. Followed
then importations of regular English foxhounds,
which were crossed on our native bitches to give
more speed to their progeny. The oldest and best
known strain was the Brooke, brought over from
England by Sir Roger Brooke, who came over
with Lord Baltimore and settled in Maryland. In
1822 Mr. Bolton Jackson imported Mountain and
Muse from Ireland and we get most of our fox
hound strains from these and the Brooke dogs,
which were extensively crossed. In 1738 a pair
of red foxes was brought over by the captain of
the tobacco boat Monocacy, and it was their ad
vent into Maryland and the subsequent showing
up of our native hounds as too slow that was the
direct cause of this importation. The two dogs
Mountain and Muse became the property of Gov
ernor Ogle, and their get was bred extensively
on the native stock of the fox-hunting gentry of
Maryland.
One of these hunters, Mr. Gosnell, bred and

62 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

presented to Mr. Miles Harris, of Georgia, a pair
of pups, one of which was the dog July. He
proved a sensation as compared to the native
hounds of the central South, and so became very
famous and was bred to extensively, establishing
what is known as the July strain of Georgia fox
hounds.

The next famous strain was the Trigg, owned
by H. C. Trigg, noted southern hunter. Originally
the family owned a pack of the fine old rat-tailed,
long-eared, deep-toned Virginia black-and-tan
foxhounds, but the advent of the red fox into Ken
tucky changed all that, and the Triggs had to as
semble a new pack. The stock was obtained from
Mr. Birdsong in Georgia in 1867. He had then in
his pack the famous dog July, and also his Henry
dog Longstreet. From him he bought Chase and
Bee (by Longstreet), George, Eip and Fannie,
paying $400 for the lot. From General Maupin
he bought Minnie, a descendant of the noted dog,
Tennessee Lead, and from Colonel Walker he got
the dog Mattie. The Trigg strain is thus seen
to be a blend of the Birdsong, Maupin and Walker
stocks.

Following out this line of foxhound history, we
first see the connection of the Triggs with the
original Maryland stock through July, and next

WHO'S WHO IN HOUND DOGS 63

in logical order would be the Birdsong dogs.
These dogs were developed by Mr. Birdsong from
a pack of notable Virginia foxhounds owned by
Dr. T. Y. Henry. These were all Mountain-Muse
dogs from the Irish Maryland strain, and were
used by Dr. Henry principally in deer hunting.
Mr. Birdsong then bought the dog July and
crossed him on these Henry hounds. Longstreet
and Hodo were part of the original Henry pack,
and so we get the main outlines of the Birdsong
strain.

Coming now to the Walkers, these were also
old-style grey fox dogs originally, and, with the
advent of the red fox, showed the same lack of
the needful speed. As Mr. Walker, senior, was
a close friend and county neighbour of General
Maupin, the first outcross was to Maupin's Ten
nessee Lead. This dog was a stray, picked up run
ning a deer, but was evidently a foxhound of Eng
lish or Irish descent, very fast and yet having a
trailing nose, and he improved the Walker strain
immensely. Aside from the importation of
Striver and two bitches from England some time
later, the Walker strain was kept intact, simply
adhering to careful breeding from the best of the
Tennessee Lead- Walker pups.

This covers the principal American foxhound

64 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

families, with the exception of the Byron strain.
About 1850 a club of foxhunters in Petersburg,
Pa,, imported the English bitch, Clio, to breed her
to the famous Maryland dog, Battler. The mat
ing resulted in foul1 notable puppies, Byron,
Music, Battler II and Dido. Byron went to
Colonel Tucker, Battler II was retained by Colo
nel Starke (the owner of Clio), Music went to
Colonel Hampton, of South Carolina, and Dido
went West, where her blood is found in all the
best known Kentucky and Tennessee strains. By
ron became very famous and was bred to by the
owners of foxhound packs, his name being given
to the strain of foxhounds thus sired by him.

Into other noted strains, such as the Arkansas
Traveller, Wild Goose, Bobertson, Whitlock,
Avent, Cook, etc., it is not necessary to go further
here than to generalise that each was founded by
some noted dog, bred on original native stock, the
blood of the Maryland, Walker and Birdsong (or
July) strains being prevalent in all of them. The
Williams strain of to-day was developed in the
same way from Walker-Maupin stock, improved
by the judicious addition of imported English
blood, by General Boger D. Williams, of Ken
tucky. Of his champion dogs we may note
Scrape, Jip Sharpe, Barney, Scorch, Lee, etc. My

TYPICAL RABBIT BEAGLES OUT FOR A DAY*S HUNT

FOUR CRACK LLEWELLINS ODESSA (POINTING),

LANARK LAD, GYPSY NOBLE AND TONOPAUGH

MOMONEY II, A CRACK FIELD TRIAL SETTER

THE LLEWELLIN SETTER, "

TYPICAL TENNESSEE REDBONE COON HOUND

LADY BELLE B RABBIT BEAGLE

(Courtesy Forest $ Stream)

AIREDALE TERRIER, CH. ILLUMINATOR

THE CHAMPION POINTERS. "MANITOBA RAP" AND "ALFORD's JOHN'

WHO'S WHO IN HOUND DOGS 65

own dog, Pepper, is by Lee out of Wake, and has
won so many ribbons that he is by now a cham
pion himself no doubt. He was carrying every
thing before him in both bench and field trials
when last heard from, and is now the property
of the Eookwood Kennels of Lexington, Ky.

The popular and ubiquitous beagle, rich man's
and poor man's dog alike, is very plentiful in our
country. We have three kinds, the standard 15-
inch, the pocket variety about nine inches at the
shoulder, and the large beagle which takes after
the harrier and stands over twenty inches, mak
ing a good dog for fast snowshoe hare, and good
also on plain Molly Cotton-tail. Our first stand
ard beagles were General Eowett's pack, imported
from England, though of just what strain there
is no record. The dogs of this pack that have had
much influence on beagle breeding in America
were Warrior, Eosey, Sam and Dolly, who enter
into the blood of many of the best beagle strains
in America. Battler was of the mating Warrior-
Eosey, and was extensively bred to. Ch. Frank
Forrest was the most famous of the New England
beagles, and achieved the double championship of
both bench and field. Ch. Lee and his son, Bow
man, were also noted beagles of the early nine
ties. Imp. Bellman, mated to another Eowett

66 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

beagle, produced Dan D., winner of the 1902 field
trials. In general the Bowetts were cobby black-
white-and-tans, heavy boned, with long heads, and
they run so true to type that any dog with Bowett
blood in him will make a good showing at either
field or bench trials.

Of the smaller beagles, Ch. Bannerman heads
the list, a nine-inch beagle, brought over to coun
teract the American tendency to large size. He
was the chief rival of Frank Forrest at that time.
Frank Forrest, mated to the imported field bitch
Sue Forrest, of the Elmore strain, produced Ch.
Clyde, Sunday and Gypsy Forrest. These all
produced noted field trial dogs, and Clyde's son,
Trick, made it three straight generations of For
rest field champions beginning with Frank For
rest. Comeroe, of the Elmore strain, was by im
ported Ch. Bingwood, and the strain was crossed
on the Bowetts with fine results for both field and
bench qualities. Imp. Chimer and Myrtle were
brought to Pennsylvania and started another line
of beagles which were crossed on the Bowetts and
on the combination of Bowett and Elmore, the
best dog of the line being Lady Novice; also by
Chimer and a Bowett bitch we got Spinaway.
Two of her sons, Bobino II and Fashion, became

WHO'S WHO IN HOUND DOGS 67

leaders in 1902. The small dogs, Bannerman and
Blue Cap, developed great steadfastness in rabbit
tracking in their get, and the nick was used by
many of our present day breeders.

CHAPTER IV

SPECIAL FIELD DOGS

ANOTHER breed not to be overlooked by Amer
ican sportsmen is the French pointing Griffon.
In 1916, for the first time, one of them ran in one
of the great field trials and gave such good ac
count of himself that one of the best Llewellins
had to stretch himself to make good against him.

This Griffon, Homere's Jack, was run in the
National Capitol Field Trials. He drew a crack
Eugene M.-Gleam dog, Tip Top Merry Boy (Mike
M.-Gleam's Belle). Every one was anxious to see
how the Griffon would make out in comparison
with a crack Llewellin. The Frenchman did very
well, for, while Merry Boy was full of class and
had plenty of speed, the Griffon was right after
him. Unfortunately no birds were found during
the heat, so the trial was quite inconclusive.
Homere's Jack is by Homere-Fileuse de Merli-
mont, a steel-gray pointing Griffon. I have noted
these dogs carefully at bench shows and know
them from puppyhood up. The logical-minded

68

SPECIAL FIELD DOGS 69

French claim that their sporting dog is the best
all-around field dog in the world, since he is as
good a pointer and bird-finder as he is a retriever
(and we all know how lots of the rinding of
grassed birds is often left to us by our crack
pointers and setters), and his double coat makes
him impervious to cold in swimming after ducks.
It will probably take several generations of Amer
ican breeding to develop in the French dog the
combined speed and nose required of a field trial
winner, but the fancy in this country is in good
hands, notably Mr. L. A. Thebaud. The Griffon
is not a handsome dog, compared to either pointer
or setter. His head is heavy and square-lined,
his coat is wire-haired and grey with black spots,
and in general he looks like a cross between the
Airedale and a blue belton setter. His tail is
always docked for the same reason in looks that
a terrier's tail is docked. The wire-haired coat
is, like that of the Airedale, double, with a vest
of fine downy hair underneath, making the dog
able to plunge into icy water after ducks like a
Chesapeake, and enabling him to withstand the
rough going in briers and wet underbrush that
would soon put either setter or pointer to shiv
ering and flinching. Mr. Thebaud, who spent
much of his time in France hunting with the

70 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

French- American painter, Bosseau, became much
impressed with the possibilities of the Griffon as
the dog in our country to solve the problem of a
good all-around dog on both upland game and
wild fowl. There is no question that the Griffon
both points and retrieves under unusual condi
tions, both of which the Chesapeake cannot do,
and for an all-around sportsman who can afford
but one dog the Griffon should claim very serious
consideration.

The family began in our country with Kob de
Merlimont, imported by Mr. Thebaud, to whom
were later added Homere and Fileuse de Merli
mont, parents of the 1916 entry, Homere 's Jack.
Of the German strain of Griffons we have Bolero
von Gimbsheim, Korthals and Passe-Partout.
There are but few Griffons advertised for sale.
Mr. G. Van Morgan, of Denton, N. C., maintains a
kennel of Griffons, and Mr. Thebaud, of Morris-
town, N. J., will occasionally part with a dog to
one who is sincerely interested in advancing the
name and fame of the Griffon in America.

Dr. Ilyus, of Lancaster, Pa., not only has Grif
fon puppies for sale, but offers two good ones at
stud, Flambeau Planig (Le Capitaine Fracasse ex
Anna Planig), a German Griffon, and Bolero von

SPECIAL FIELD DOGS 71

Gimbsheim, noted above, by Ch. Eabot ex Diana
von Gimbsheim.

When it comes to an out-and-out retriever our
own Chesapeake Bay dog is one of the best. This
fancy is already well established, and good pups
are to be had at reasonable prices. For the duck
hunter, pointing and bird-finding ability are not
the requisites for his furry hunting companion.
Bather, he wants a big strong dog, able to swim
in rough seaways in both salt and fresh water,
double-coated so as to be coldproof in duck
weather, and of perseverance and hardihood suf
ficient to sustain a long chase after a crippled
duck. These the Chesapeake has to perfection.
He lies in the blind quietly, makes no sound while
the ducks are coming in, and when the guns are
through his part begins, which is to jump into the
icy water, swim out and catch any cripple and
afterward bring in the slain. Owing to the ease
with which ducks note the smallest black object,
the ideal coat for the Chesapeake is a sedge
brown.

There is no need here to go into the various
stories concerning the ancestry of the Chesa
peake ; suffice it that the breed has been well es
tablished for some forty years, and was in its zen
ith during the great days of the ducks on the

72 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

Chesapeake, now gone forever. Among present-
day sires the get of Beaver III appear both in the
stud and puppy pedigrees offered on the dog mart.
Clark's Sea Wolf and Clark's Sea Tramp are
typical Chesapeakes, both by Beaver's Bex out
of Edmund's Lusitania and Finey's Pride, re
spectively. Other good puppies offered are by
Water King ex Bessie H. Mr. Pulitzer's Brownie
was the star bench show Chesapeake of 1916.

Going further back into the Chesapeake hier
archy, we soon get to Ch. Chester (Brownie-
Pride), the finest of the breed. Chester Mat
thews, a present-day dog, is Hale's Dick — Juda,
in the direct Chester line, while Furlike, another
good one, is Ferg's Bingo ex Juda of the Chester-
Mollie Evans strain. A typical three-generation
Chesapeake pedigree would be as follows :

Beaver'sHex

Clark's Sea Wolf

Edmund's /Water King

I Lusitania \DollyJ.

THKEE GENERATIONS OF CHESAPEAKE LINEAGE

which should give the reader a fair idea of the
family lines. It is quite as essential to get a pure
bred Chesapeake as a pure-bred setter or pointer,
for crosses and mongrels never can specialise like
thoroughbreds. Nerve and stamina are what are
wanted in your Chesapeake, a dog that will crash
through thin ice, cutting his own channel after a

SPECIAL FIELD DOGS 78

duck, and have grit enough to do it again and
again. Here's where the yellow streak will show
out, if a mongrel. That, and looks. For the
thoroughbred is a good-looking dog, whatever
rags-and-tatters cross-breds may masquerade un
der the name Chesapeake.

The great rival of the Chesapeake is the Irish
water spaniel. An odd-looking dog, but every one
who has ever owned one swears by him as the
greatest ever. Mr. Percy Swan, of Chico, Cal.,
has lately imported a number of good ones and
Dr. H. E. Rocjley, of the same place, has a fine lot.
His Ch. Hooker Oak Hogan is a typical dog of the
breed. Hooker Oak Harp, Imp. Florrie McCarthy
and Lady McShane will be names frequently met
with in American strain Irish water spaniel fam
ilies. The best colour is a reddish brown almost
as sedgy as Chesapeakes. The Eev. T. Moore
Smith is one of the best known breeders of the
fancy in the east. As to some of the wonderful
feats of endurance and staying qualities in icy
water and freezing duck weather that these dogs
accomplish as part of their day's work the Cali
fornia duck hunters are only too eager to testify.
I have read many an enthusiastic letter from own
ers of the breed who hunted their dogs day after
day in such conditions.

74 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

While the English Retriever has but small vogue
in our country, there being but one entry in the
big 5-point Westminster show, any breed that has
some special virtue will always find adherents
among our sportsmen. The Eetriever has been
in the main supplanted by our own Chesapeake,
and the Irish Water Spaniel, but there is another
dog, called, Down East, the Tolling Dog, which
hails from Newfoundland and seems destined to
have a future with us. His admirers have written
me at length concerning the virtues of the breed.
I shall content myself here with a brief statement
of the particular claims of the breed on the atten
tions of American sportsmen. Suppose you had
a dog that bred true to type, was an unexcelled
cold-water retriever and would "toll" ducks for
you. Sounds interesting, but just what is "toll
ing" ducks! Well, Down East they have solved
that vexatious problem of a raft of ducks playing
out in front of your blind (but most warily keep
ing well out of gun range), by using a tolling dog.
This dog is trained to perform antics in the sedge ;
now in sight, now down in the grass, appearing
and disappearing, until the curious ducks begin to
swim in, little by little, to satisfy themselves what
it is all about. They seem to have no fear of the
toller which is a rather small dog, and soon are in

SPECIAL FIELD DOGS 75

range, when the gunners up and at 'em, where
upon the toller swims out, retrieves the slain, and
again begins his tactics when another flock settles
out in front. By this means a good bag is secured
under adverse circumstances familiar to us all,
those aggravating days when the ducks will not
trade but persist in rafting out in the bay consid
erably out of range.

Such is the toller, seemingly a breed produced
by crossing the English retriever on the well-
known Labrador dog or Labrador retriever, a
close relative of the Newfoundland. Mr. H. A. P.
Smith of Nova Scotia is at present the principal
breeder of these dogs.

A final field dog is the much neglected spaniel.
In England he takes the place of the setter here,
for the average poor man's dog. Easy to keep,
affectionate, a good bird-finder, the spaniel is just
the dog for the close English coverts, where you
want the ground thoroughly worked up. I should
say that he fills a good niche here, for the subur
banite sportsman's dog. Suppose you want a
house and watch dog that you can train to retrieve
and that will naturally point grouse, woodcock and
jack snipe when you get a day off and set out in
the car to get a little shooting. A good, quiet,
brainy cocker, working near you yet marking for

76 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

you just where Mr. Pat is hiding so you will not
be looking somewhere else when he jumps, will do
all for you that setter or pointer can do, and will
be a much easier dog to keep. Again, suppose
the hill country in your neighbourhood has many
an oozy rill where the flight birds of the Canada
woodcock pitch down and stick around awhile dur
ing the fall months. What better dog for an oc
casional day with them than a little cocker, which
you can whistle up any time about the house and
don't have to keep in a kennel? Or, if you live
down in the prairie and woods country of the cen
tral states and get a day in the marshes after
jacksnipe or a day's ducking, again the cocker is
as good as any dog, and is a grand water retriever
if the water is not too icy. Yes, sir ; there 's a lot
that that diminutive setter, the spaniel, can do for
you, and most bird-dog laws and restrictions pass
over his head, as in our country he is hardly
classed by wardens as a hunting dog at all.

This disqualification as a hunting dog is due to
the bench-show evil, which operates to produce
point winners rather than gun dogs. For the
sportsman a line of the spaniels that are being
worked afield is of more value than all the famous
bench names in the world, so there is not much of
value in going into spaniel history, as we have.

SPECIAL FIELD DOGS 77

with field trial setters and pointers.' The Wat-
nong spaniels, a kennel maintained by Mr. Wil-
merding, of New York, is a good example of real
field dogs kept so by continuous working. His
Ch. Matterhorn, or the Watnong bitches, Floss,
Irene and Nettie, give good hunting spaniel par
entage. The Canadian dogs, Ch. Black Duke,
Black Knight, etc., and the dogs from the Weald-
stone, Saybrook and Brookside kennels, are all
field spaniels that have not forgotten how to hunt.

For cockers, i.e., woodcock spaniels, the Midkiff,
Lucknow and Bellevue kennels are reliable, but
breed mostly for bench show points.

On the borderland between the bird dogs and
the fur dogs stands the Airedale, the dog who can
hunt both. What shall I say of him — I who know
and love him so well? My opinion of him remains
about as it was when I penned " Airedale, Setter
and Hound" — as just dog he is unbeatable, but as
a specialist on either fur or feathers he is not to
be compared to the breeds which were old in the
hunting game centuries before the Airedale was
ever thought of. He is the greatest of the ter
riers, and the one who can and is being success
fully trained to hunt everything alive that can be
hunted. Tackling bear or cougar, routing out
woodchucks, jumping rabbits, tree marking squir-

78 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

rels, pointing grouse and quail, running pheasants,
and retrieving any and all of them — the Airedale
properly trained has done all these things in hun
dreds and hundreds of individual instances.

As staunch and dependable a friend as one can
ever have, the Airedale is essentially a man's dog
— a manly dog, if I may put it that way. There
is something essentially feminine about a setter,
with his endearing ways and graceful form ; and
there is something essentially wild about a hound
that we humans never quite get to the bottom of ;
but your Airedale you can know as man to man.
You feel as if talking to another man, and a true
and tried one, when you talk to him, and there is
no small deed of courage and stout-heartedness
that you may not attempt with him along as
partner.

While they breed pretty true to type, there is a
good deal in the fortunate selection of the individ
ual Airedale. The bench shows are full of champs,
who have been bred exclusively for points, with
never a thought to the dog as a hunter, so that the
name of the Airedale winner of the moment on
your pup's pedigree is no guarantee that he will
develop into a good hunter. Some of the best of
them possess brains, as well as points in sumptu
ous profusion and given a good brainy dog you

SPECIAL FIELD DOGS 79

can teach him the whole hunting game, for even
the gun dogs proper do not inherit much more than
a good nose and hunting instincts and also need
special training. Wherefore your first care is
that the Airedale sire and dam are notably smart
dogs, preferably with a hunting education. There
is no great hierarchy of dog families to guide one,
as there is with the Llewellin setters, for every
year sees several new imported champions which
sweep all before them and start new Airedale
families of their own. One year it will be Ch.
York Byburn Swell, the next show he may win
reserve while Tintern Top Hole or Abbey King
Nobbier takes first. Ch. Soudan Swiveller comes
the nearest of them to being both a crack bench
dog and a crack hunter. But there are a number
of big kennels breeding extensively in hunting
Airedale stock, and their kennel suffix goes along
with the pup's given name, and these aid one
somewhat in placing the dog as a hunting possi
bility. Such names as the Oorang, Vibert, Cul-
bertson, Ozone, Cedarview, Oaklawn, etc., kennels
are a guarantee that your pup has many a hunting
relative among his forebears and has a fair start
anyhow. The rest is natural adaptability and
training. If you don't train your Airedale as
thoroughly as you do your setter you cannot ex-.

80 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

pect equal results. But any number of sportsmen
have succeeded beyond all statements yet in print
in the extent and variety of hunting accomplish
ments which they have taught their Airedale to
master. The thing to do is to get out and hunt
with him and let him learn by experience. Let
him dig out his own woodchucks, 'possums, musk-
rats ; hole up his own skunks and squirrels ; your
part being to guide the hunting and get the dog
where there is game to be had. Hell soon learn.
Take him along with the bird dogs, on a check
cord if necessary, but let him be there and he will
soon catch on. Airedales sometimes point birds
with raised forefoot just like a setter; my own
dog Blaze usually raised the forefoot slightly, but
his best cue was a trig eager attitude of fixed
attention, standing motionless which generally
meant a quail or grouse in sight.

As to size, there is a great variety of opinion.
Belmore Browne, the famous hunter, explorer-
artist, raised a lot of Airedales in the Eockies and
they always kept the smaller ones and disposed of
the big stock. His reasons were that as a rule
the smaller Airedale, around 45 pounds, was the
brainier fighter. On the other hand some of the
best lion and bear dog Airedales are picked around
60 pounds, and that by well-known handlers. Per*

MISTER DOOLEY ONE OF THE BEST BRED IRISH WATER SPANIELS IN

THE UNITED STATES

TONY T. AND BESSIE NOTED CHESAPEAKES

GEEYLOCK A FINE AMERICAN-BRED GRIFFON

SPECIAL FIELD DOGS 81

sonally I would prefer the larger dog as tending
more towards his hound than his terrier ancestry
for we must not forget the otter hound of old
England in our zeal to make a pure terrier of the
Airedale.

Of famous Airedales which have made good as
hunters, we might mention the Culbertson dogs,
Chs. Soudan Swiveller, Kootenai Firebrand, Koo-
tenai Chinook, Lord Knobbler, the Oorang dogs,
Clonmel Cadet, Reservoir Thunderbolt and a host
of unknown others owned by admirers of the breed
who have written me of the performances of their
dogs. Again and again I hear from this and that
sportsman who has trained his Airedale exclu
sively on grouse in Maine, pheasants in New York,
quail in Michigan, chickens in the Dakotas, wood
cock in the Carolinas; and the performances of
these specialists equal anything usually expected
of a first-rate setter or pointer. It just shows
what an Airedale can do with feathers; what he
can do with fur is already well known.

Occasionally one gets a chance to import a fine
dog from England or decides to do so to improve
his own stock. Regarding the method of proced
ure I quote the following letter from my good
friend Wyndham Martyn, the well-known British
sportsman: "I understand the increased rates

82 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

now obtaining in England have raised ordinary
passenger fare about 50% and assume dogs would
also be charged extra. Ordinarily the fare from
Oxford to London (about 55 miles) is two shillings
or under fifty cents. If your brother sailed from
London he could take the dog in a taxi without
extra charge. If from Liverpool the rate might
be $1.50 or if from Southampton 60 cents, approxi
mately.

"On board ship, a round rate of $2.50 was for
merly charged by the steamship people.

"This may be altered. When once you have
your dog on shipboard you are not allowed to keep
him but must seek out the ship's butcher who will
look after him. As most of these men are sports
men in a mild way they get fond of their charges.
The writer has never seen a dog of his looking any
the worse for the trip except they may err on the
high side by reason of little exercise and high liv
ing. For this care the butcher should get a couple
of dollars.

"As to the choice of bird dog in England, that
depends entirely on the type of shooting. A
pointer is sometimes called a ' fortnight dog.'
By this is meant that he is most useful during the
first two weeks of the partridge season (Sept. 1

SPECIAL FIELD DOGS 83

to 15). The big shoots in England during the
partridge season take place mainly over roots,
turnips, etc., and as there are so many birds a
very fast dog is necessary. And for nose and
pace no bird dog equals a good pointer.

"If you are going to a mixed shoot where you
walk up your birds and may have fur as well as
feather (hare shooting opens on August the first)
a setter is as good as any. As to what sort of
setter depends mainly on the kind of farm you are
shooting over. Irish setters are inclined to be
wild and 'break their fences'; while the Gordons
do not fall into this sin, but work slowly and
surely. The English setter is perhaps the best
but there is very little in it.

"If you are going on a ' rough shoot7 where
you must walk up your birds, rabbits and hares, a
spaniel is pretty well the best utility dog. They
are very easy to get in England and are in a vast
majority in ordinary shooting parties.

"The spaniel is not a fast, wide-ranging dog,
and for the reason that we cover bigger territories
here than in England they are not much seen.
Sussex, cockers or field spaniels all have their
warm admirers and do good work in England ow
ing to restricted areas. Retrievers flat-coated

84 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

and curly are also used. In the event of your not
knowing what sort of shooting you are going to
have, we recommend a setter, especially one which
has undergone successfully field trials. "

CHAPTER V

PUPPIES

To have or not to have — puppies — that is the
question; and it besets many an owner and still
more the prospective owner. The question has its
pros and cons, as most questions have. When
your bitch comes in season, shall you breed her,
or shall you deny her nature's supreme func
tion? If buying a pup from a kennel, shall you
get a pup just weaned, or shall you spend more
and get one in adolescence and more out of the
reach of distemper? If you don't breed the bitch
she will have to be guarded with extreme vigilance
and care ; if you do breed her she will have to be
guarded for several weeks after the mating to pre
vent further alliance with mongrel dogs. And,
at the end of the period of gestation, in sixty-three
days or less, you will have the manifold cares of
being superintendent of a canine maternity hos
pital and foster-father of some six or more wee,
furry packages of canine infancy. If you buy a
young pup, just weaned, from the kennels, his cost

85

86 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

will be less than for an older dog, and you will
enjoy many delicious moments in watching his
infantile poses and antics, but your risk of losing
him from distemper or some other ailment is much
greater than with a dog a year old.

It depends principally upon individual tempera
ment Some men love children and pets and get
hours of enjoyment out of caring for them and
playing with them; others are more self-centred
and are easily irritated by the doings of irrespon
sible pups and mischievous children. The former
class, fortunately in the great majority, form the
principal prop of the great institution of matri
mony, by which the world do move ; the latter, con
stituting the bulk of the readers of smart and
snappy magazines, are the main pillars of the sa
cred institution of alimony. To which class you
personally belong should decide whether you
should own a pup or pups, or should invest in a
young grown dog. Puppies are a joy forever;
they are also an intolerable nuisance. Like chil
dren, there is something infinitely tender and ap
pealing about them that tugs at the very heart
strings of mankind ; and, like children, they want
the earth with a stone wall around it, they strew
a path of ruin and disorder behind them, and they
inevitably contract a variety of infantile diseases.

PUPPIES 87

To me a two-months' pup is a source of pure
joy. His little, fat, waddly hind legs ; his forever-
wagging, busy deevilduyvil of a tail; his bright,
inquisitive little face, with pricked-up ears and
head cocked to one side ; his hopeless innocence in
this naughty and cruel world ; his slashing bravery
with which he tackles things that discretion would
counsel him had better be left alone; his utter,
appalling ignorance of the proper times and
places to do whatever his fancy for the moment
listeth — all these are a constant pleasure to me to
watch. They do not irritate me; I laugh at his
misdemeanours, condone his faults, revel in his
virtues, and adore him from the end of his small
black muzzle to the tip of his tiny tail!

You miss a lot when you begin with a year-old
pup ; yet you avoid a lot, too. During those early
months he will do at least a million things to ag
gravate you and make you lose your temper, and
many a time you will shake your head and call
him a hopeless lemon. And then, being a thor
oughbred, he will be far less hardy than a mongrel
pup and will take all his ailments badly, giving
you many an anxious hour. But, if you bring him
through, he will be your dog, ten times more so
than if you started with him later in life. And,

88 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

if you lose him, it will go ten times as hard with
you!

Whether to keep bitch or dog also comes under
the same heading of individual temperament. A
bitch is more docile and affectionate ; as smart as
or smarter than the dog; is infinitely more trouble
to keep because of her seasons, recurring every
six months and lasting for about three weeks ; and
she is more hardy than the dog, following Na
ture's universal law of making the more important
sex of the species constitutionally sounder. The
dog, on the other hand, is much easier to keep, is
harder to teach, more quarrelsome with other
dogs, more liable to disease, and, unless a prize
winner, is a source of no income to you as a pro
ducer.

In general, I should not advise keeping a bitch
for a man who has a family of growing children,
already a great deal of care to their mother; she
will be only one more thing to look after. But,
for a city sportsman who can afford to have his
bitch kept at the country club, and looked after
or bred properly when she comes in season, a bitch
would be a very good and profitable choice. She
will mind her strange master better afield, will
stand railway journeys and exposure better, and
will yield him a nice penny from the sale of her

PUPPIES 89

puppies. For a man living in the country, with
a big place and grown-up children, or at most but
one or two youngsters, the bitch would be a very
good choice. Such a man would have the leisure
and inclination to breed her and raise high-class
pups on the side, and an advertisement of any such
litter in any one of the sporting magazines will
easily clean out the whole lot, if good ones. Keep
ing the best pups for a future sire, and one or two
of the bitch puppies for future matrons, he has
the basis of a nice kennel — good, strong, line-bred
stock. One more sire, bought later from outside
stock, would save him from the evils of too much
line breeding, and, by putting the puppies out to
walk with farmers in the neighbourhood, after
they get over eight months of age, he has his stock
where it can flourish healthily and will be more im
mune from ravages of disease. Most farmers will
board your pup very inexpensively ; some will take
him for the protection to the farm that a dog of
any kind always gives.

Your first pup will naturally be bought from
some kennel whose stock you fancy. Most ken-
nelmen are reliable, and they have had the ad
vantage of having seen and noted the puppies
when they were just born, which is the only time
that any idea can be formed of their probable

90 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

future behaviour, for after the first few days
they all become so many little fluffy balls of
fat and cannot be judged as to bonal structure.
However, when just born, a very fair idea of the
future conformation of head and body can be
formed. Later, at about two months, you can
judge of the most important anatomical feature of
the pup, his couplings or backbone vertebrae join
ing the last ribs to the pelvis bones which support
the hind legs. These vertebrae, if you will study
the skeleton of a perfect dog, have long, strong
side-lugs, or " processes/' as the professors call
them, to which the strong muscles of the loin are
secured. If this back structure is not broad and
strong the pup will never amount to much. Thin
and weak there, he is like a ship with a weak keel,
hopelessly unseaworthy. Leave the selection of
these points to the kennelman if at a great dis
tance; if anywhere within even five dollars' car
fare, better go and pick out your pup with his help.
For Airedales, spaniels, beagles and some hounds,
the Eastern man will find suitable kennels within
carfare range. For pointers and setters, the
Middle West seems to be headquarters, and the
pup must be bought on pedigree and your kennel-
man's selection. Most of them are entirely will
ing to ship you a pup on approval, so your whole

THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG 91

risk is the express fare, which amounts to about
$3. A good setter or pointer pup will stand you
$25 at two months' age, maybe $40 when a year
old, and $30 at six months. Hounds run from $5
to $15 for pups of about six months' age. The
business of shipping them is well organised ; even
a baby doglet of two months, five days on the road
in the dead of winter, will arrive at your home in
good shape. They send with him a milk bottle,
a box of crackers and a tin tray tacked inside the
crate, and it is the express company's business to
see that he is fed en route, and, if they are so slow
that all the food gives out, it is up to them to feed
him themselves. Older pups require nothing but
a box of dog biscuits and a water-pan, and are
chained inside the crate, a cruel and usually un
necessary custom, brought about by the fact that
so many people ship dogs in weak, worthless crates
and then hold the express company responsible
for the canine wonder that went adrift.

Assuming that you have ordered a two-months'
pup, presently there will arrive in your midst a
fat, fluffy ball of dog flesh with rubber legs and
jelly backbone, a little waddling pup that will keep
the whole family in a turmoil from the moment he
arrives. Every one wants to hug a baby, no mat
ter whether human or canine, and your puppy will

92 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

come in for his full share. He will be lively and
aggressive himself, lick every one's face, explore
the entire premises, get himself into trouble in the
first five minutes in your house, and turn your
whole schedule of existence upside down — for the
first few days! Then you get used to it, and do
not take him and his wants so seriously.

About the first problem that arrives, and that
with the going down of the sun, is whether to make
a house dog of him or a kennel dog. Both ways
have their advantages; the kennel-raised dog is
hardier and more independent and better as a
watchdog if the premises are large; the house-
raised dog is more intimately your chum and the
pet of the family, he will be less hardy, because
half his life — the hours of night — are spent in
doors out of the fresh air, and, if the premises are
small or limited, he will do better as a watchdog
if kept indoors, for with him on guard the house
cannot be entered nor the dog poisoned, as will
likely happen if kept in a kennel outside. House-
breaking him is a small matter if rightly managed.
Tie him to his mat or sleeping corner with a short
chain, and take him out the last thing at night and
the first thing in the morning, as regularly as the
sun rises and sets, punish him for transgressions
at the scene of his crime, and you will have him

PUPPIES 93

well broken in three weeks. A very young pup of
two to two and a half months cannot go over-night
without relief and had better have a newspaper
placed handy. To whip him or punish him hard
for transgressions is pure cruelty; you would not
do so to a ten-months-old baby, nor is the pup any
more responsible. But no dog likes to soil his
quarters, and will restrain himself as long as
possible if the chain is so short that he cannot get
away from his sleeping mat.

Whether he has a kennel in the yard or a mat
in the house, let it be a fixed place that he can call
his. When doggie has no particular place to sleep,
it does not take him long to find out which chairs
are the most comfortable, and he will inevitably
fill them full of hairs and make them look worn if
allowed to sleep in them. The time to check this
tendency to climb up into chairs is when extremely
young. At the first attempt he is to be lightly
punished, scolded and warned. Pepper was the
only one of my pups who could not be broken of
the chair habit. No amount of licking would cure
him, and at the first sound of the wife's footfall
descending the staircase Pepper would do a grand
sneak out of the morris-chair in the library and
look up at her as innocent as a lamb when she
came into the room. But a warm chair-seat,

94 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

plentifully sprinkled with white hound hairs,
would give him away, for all his angelic expres
sion ! Blaze and Scout both attempted to use the
chairs, but both were headed off in early infancy.
The thing to do is to provide a thick mat of, say,
three inches of cotton batting loosely quilted, the
facing being gray flannel. Such a mat should be
at least two feet by three feet in area (22 by 30
inches will do for a pup or a small dog like a
spaniel or beagle), and can be dusted, aired and
sunned, or sprayed with flea disinfectant, and is
put away in some closet during the daytime. Dur
ing the evening your dogs will lie on the rugs be
fore the big log fire, but the floor is never a really
comfortable sleeping place, besides being draughty
and conducive to rheumatism. It will answer un
til you go to bed, but, if you have provided no
mats, just see how long it will take those dogs to
appropriate the chairs, once you are well asleep !
For a kennel, a packing-box 20 by 24 by 32
inches will stand you 50 cents at the shoe store,
and you are to erect a pair of roof rafters at each
end and nail to them on each side a roof made of
two boards of rough 1 by 12-inch hemlock four
feet long, four boards in all. The gable ends are
filled with the erstwhile top boards of your pack-
;,ag-box, the rear gable being hinged so as to make

PUPPIES 95

a triangular door for getting at the interior of
the kennel to clean it. Then, with a circular saw,
cut a dog door in one side of the end, 10 by 16
inches, and the kennel is ready to line inside with
ordinary tarpaper, which the builders use for
sheathing, and outside with one of the many
brands of ready roofing paper. It then receives
a coat of paint outside and is ready to set up, at a
cost, complete, of about $1.50. To set up proper
ly, remember that the dog likes a high place to
roost, and that too near the ground means liability
to rheumatism, pneumonia and distemper, so drive
in four stout posts and saw off their tops about 8
inches above the ground and set the box on them,
nailing fast with wire nails driven down through
the bottom of the box into the posts. For sum
mer, your mat will be the best bed to put in the
kennel, for then is the height of the flea season and
the kennel will need to be sprayed every week and
the mat taken out and aired and sunned. The in
side tarpaper also helps in discouraging the flea
population, but not very much. A good kresol
dip, consisting of a tub of water with two table-
spoonfuls of kresol in it, makes a real flea-killer,
annihilating every one; but even this they will
live through if not freshly mixed.
For a bitch the kennel had best be two-storied,

96 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

with a sort of veranda up under the roof. Your
packing-box simply needs its top left on, and
above it the roof is erected with a running board a
foot high all around, and the roof a lean-to with
the upper side open. Here the bitch can retire for
a rest when she wants to get away from the pup
pies for a little while — a vacation much appre
ciated by any mother, human or canine !

For winter bedding good clean straw is better
than the mat, for it permits the dog to make him
self a nest and is warmer and less draughty than
the plain mat. Excelsior, shavings, hay, and
leaves are all objectionable, because of splinters,
fine dust, hay seeds, dirt, etc., which the dog
breathes in through his nostrils when lying in such
a bed.

The housing problem for your pup is by no
means through when you have provided mat or
kennel, for some breeds, notably setter and span
iel puppies, so crave human companionship that
they will howl and bawl if tied to a kennel, also if
tied in the cellar, and ditto if tied downstairs.
In point of fact they want to share your bedroom
with you — which you will have force of character
enough to forbid ! Install him in a place free from
draughts and commanding the whole of down
stairs, and you have him at his best as a watch-

A NICE LITTER OF SETTER PUPPIES, TWO MONTHS OLD

ENGLISH SETTER PUPS, ABOUT FOUR MONTHS OLD

(Courtesy J. B. Hickey)

THREE POINTER PUPS ON POINT AT TWO MONTHS AGE

RETRIEVING AT SIX WEEKS AGE PUP BY SIR ROGER DE COVERLY II

AND BLUE GIRL JANE

PUPPIES 97

dog, which is one of his principal functions in life.
Airedales and hounds are more phlegmatic and
will consent to be tied to the kennel in tender
puppyhood without much fuss. Even the setter
gets used to it after the first few nights, but you
are in for a siege with him for the first night,
anyway !

Next comes the problem of feeding the puppy.
Nothing sets him back so much as improper feed
ing, eczema for Airedales, worms for all pups, and
proneness to disease being the sure consequences
of improper feeding. A two-months' pup re
quires a good many light meals a day ; five is none
too much; at three months, four; at six months,
three, which is kept up until eighteen months,
when he begins to hoist his leg and is mature.
Then two meals, a light snack for breakfast and a
heavy meal at night, is more than plenty, lest he
grow fat and piggy. The two-months' pup will
require milk and cracker the first thing in the
morning ; oatmeal and dog biscuit well broken up
and milk and meat broth poured over it for
breakfast ; a lunch at 12 of broken-up, stale bread
which has been baked to a golden brown in the
oven, over which is poured a good gumbo of meat
broth and table scraps ; a bone to gnaw and a dog
biscuit at 4 p. M., and a good meal at night, consist-

98 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

ing of table scraps, dog bread, and meat broth.
Once a week a tablespoonful of raw meat chopped
fine; bones a-plenty, unless they happen to be
hard, sharp, splintery leg-bones of a chicken, when
they might puncture the dog's intestines. A
dog's stomach has so much hydrochloric acid in
it that he can swallow whole a bone as big as a
silver dollar and digest it as easily as a human
will cake. The thing simply turns to jelly in his
stomach and goes into his own bonal structure
forthwith, whereas if we tried to eat the same
bone we would need an emetic and a surgeon!
Bones that form hard splinters, however, are to
be guarded against.

In cereals, corn bread and oatmeal are both
good, but must be stopped with the coming of hot
weather and also on noting any symptoms of ec
zema. The latter comes from over-heating foods,
or too rich a diet, too much meat and not enough
stale bread baked brown; or it may come from
garbage-pail food and too little nourishment, but
generally, in the case of the over-zealous sports
man, with too rich a diet. It shows up in continu
ous scratching behind the ears and under the arm
pits. Remedy: reduce the meat element of the
diet and wash coat with flowers of sulphur in
crude oil or some such patent preparation as

PUPPIES 99

Glover's or Boving's Mange Cure or the Kenwyn
Koat Kure, all of which are essentially sulphur
and crude oil. A light case may be cured by wash
ing with ordinary Epsom salts and putting a
tablet of flowers of sulphur each day in his food.

I am a firm believer, also, in that little piece of
sulphur in his water bowl. It has often been
scoffed at in print, but my training in chemistry
as an engineer tells me that that sulphur will be
continuously forming a slight reaction with the
water to produce weak sulphuric acid, which is
just what the dog needs to make hydrochloric acid
in combination with the salt in his food, and these
two acids are among the principal reagents in the
processes of digestion.

The above diet can be kept up, with variations,
throughout the dog's life, only the amount being
reduced as he grows older. Two pounds of dog
meat at 12 cents a pound will keep the broth-pot
stocked with the basis of a dog mulligan, and all
table scraps are to go into this. One box of dog
biscuit at 20 cents will last a week, and this gives
you a bill of about 50 cents a week for your dog's
keep. Never feed him ancient or smelly meat;
he is just as liable to ptomaine poisoning as you
are. Throw it away and let him fast, if the meat
gets away from you in midsummer.

100 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

I would put exercise as the next important thing
in the puppy's care. At first he is just a waddling
billiken, hardly able to hold up on his pins, and
will achieve a walk with you of about a block from
the house and back, which is plenty. Watch his
tail; when it drops and is inclined not to wag, he
is tired and you had best pick him up or stop a
little while for a rest. In snowy weather he will
get wet and cold, so wrap him up or build a fire
and let him lie down on your coat before it for a
spell before pushing on. When Scout was three
months old we had an example of that very situa
tion. Our walk to the woods proved to be in
rather deep snow for the pup, and he tired and
began to shiver before we had gotten into them
very far, maybe half a mile. I noted the hanging
tail and listless expression, and so made a little
camp at once, building a fire and spreading out my
coat before it for the children and pups to sit on.
Blaze was afraid of the fire and had to be held
near it before he would get used to the sensation ;
otherwise he preferred to sit and shiver out in the
snow, which was just what I would not let him do.
Scout, however, lay right down with his wet belly
to the fire and let the heat warm and dry him.
After half an hour we pushed on back home and
both pups arrived in good shape ; without this stop

PUPPIES 101

and campfire it might have been a case of cold or
pneumonia for both of them. Again, setter pups
will jump into the water at any time of the year
and get thoroughly chilled. Fearlessness of water
is in their blood from their spaniel ancestry, and
you must watch out for cases of cold or pneumonia
from that cause. An old coat thrown over a shiv
ering pup and his little body set near a fire will
save much trouble. Never let him shiver himself
dry, as is sometimes done with a grown dog.

At four to eight months your pups will need two
walks a day. Even a turn around the block will
give them several miles of run, and a walk to the
fields out of town and back before breakfast will
mean ten miles of exercise to them. Then, as
pups, they must be kept locked up or tied up all
day, for even a ten-months ' pup will run away — all
the world is his friend ! It is better to keep them
close until they get their growth and know who
are their own people. A yard, even six by ten
feet, with a six-foot chicken-wire top, will give
them lots of room to run about. Two pups will
then keep themselves in fine trim by playing and
quarrelling all day when not asleep in the sun.
Tied up by a rope, they will wind themselves up in
no time; the only substitute for a yard is a tight
rope stretched between two posts about fifty feet

102 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

apart and four feet above the ground. On this
is a large iron ring to which the dog's short leader
is attached. With this scheme he gets a certain
amount of exercise, but even then will spend most
of his time at the house end of the leader, waiting
for some one to come out and play with him or
show him some attention. One lone dog has a
sorry time of his puppyhood, for his sole romps
are when master is at home. Two pups in a yard
will do much better, and when they get their
growth — say, 18 months — they will be allowed at
large about the grounds and will play with each
other all day long, racing and tearing about, wres
tling on the lawn and keeping each other in iron-
hard condition.

From the ages of six to eighteen months the
pup is going through his cubhood and will try
your patience to the limit. Over the back of one
you will ruin a perfectly good umbrella, which you
vow is worth many times over the present value
of the pup ! To another you will charge the dis
memberment of milady's hat and the frayed con
dition of your rugs ; to them both, lost articles in
numerable ; holes in the lawn ; a ravaged garden ;
many hours spent in tracing them all over town;
in washing them after rolling in carrion and filth,
which many of the wilder breeds, such as Airedales

PUPPIES 103

and hounds, delight in, the same as bears and
wolves ; and in teaching them simple dog manners.
The time for this is between the ages of three and
eight months. Then is the time to teach the pup
not to run after strangers, not to jump and fawn
all over you, not to fear the water, not to make
amorous advances towards other dogs; to learn
and obey your various whistles, to follow at heel,
and to associate shotguns and rifles with good
times afield, so that he neither fears the sound of
the shot nor dislikes the gun as an implement of
sport. From eight to twelve months is the best
time to start yard breaking the bird-dog pup, and
at twelve months he should undergo a regular
course of training with the force collar.

For hound and Airedale the same period is to be
spent in practical hunting afield, at first with older
dogs who know the game, later by himself after
hunting has become a passion with him. It may
be said here, in passing, that coonhounds, beagles
and bassels are less apt to be gun-shy than fox
hounds, which latter, having, as a rule, ancestors
who have hunted foxes in the South, have no gun
in their blood and fear it from the first. Pepper
was almost incurably gun-shy, being finally cured,
yet, at that, not caring to hunt when there was a
gun in the game ; yet as a bench dog he has already

104 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

won a number of blue ribbons, defeating several
champions, and as a field dog, hunting foxes with
horse and hound, he has more than made good and
entered the great Brunswick field trials this sea
son. Good Eedbone, Pennsylvania or Portsmouth
hound stock is what we want up North, where the
fox is run by the hound and shot ahead of him by
the hunter. For such a pup, field training, which
is simply condensed experience under the leader
ship of an experienced dog, is what he needs and
lots of it. For an Airedale pup I would advise his
going along with both bird-dog and hound and
learning both games within the limits of his abil
ity. I have heard from many owners of Aire
dales who use their dogs on quail, ruffed grouse
and woodcock, and they make good quite as well
as spaniel or retriever or any other breed not so
highly endowed with the sense of scent as the set
ters, pointers and hounds.

CHAPTER VI

DOG BKEEDING

IP your puppy is a bitch, she will come into her
first season along about the ninth, or even eighth,
month. It is well to pass this season and the next
one, six months later, without breeding her, for
her body is nowhere near fully developed and good
stock is not produced from immature cells. But
at a year and a half you can make up your mind
not to deny her, and the problem of what dog to
breed to at once comes up. Plain arithmetic
would say that half of each parent will be repre
sented in the pups, one-quarter of each of the
grandparents, and so on. But, precisely as in hu
man kind, the resulting pups of the union follow
no such law, but are quite as likely to throw back
to grandparents or even great-grandparents in
individual traits and markings as to take after
father or mother. One thing is certain, however :
the family traits on both sides will be reproduced
in all the puppies, so that if your bitch errs in
having too short a muzzle or too long a back, mate

ics

106 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

her to a dog from a family noted for cobby backs
or long muzzles, and the pups will be corrected of
both faults. To be sure of pups that will be good
natural hunters, breed the bitch to a dog from a
family noted for its wins in field trials rather than
bench shows, for the latter type, particularly in
the East, has seen so little real hunting of late that
not often does one of them make good afield.
There are lots of exceptions, it is true, but one ex
perience of training a pup with no natural hunting
instincts will cure you of any penchant for select
ing bench points rather than field ability in your
sire. The Middle West and the South are full of
dogs who can almost guarantee your bitch a litter
of natural hunters. Such a selection smooths the
way for many details later, such as avoiding gun-
shyness and having natural pointing instincts, for,
in a really satisfactory dog for the average sports
man, fearlessness of the gun and natural desire
to hunt and point should be inbred in the very
bones of the pup. Scout I was such a dog; Doris
and Scout II were just the opposite, and both of
the latter were troublesome to train.

Two services to your bitch will be plenty ; guard
her against any further alliances, for it will cause
trouble. At the same time a mesalliance, which
frequently befalls the amateur breeder, can be

DOG BREEDING 107

aborted by a douche of bichloride of mercury, and
at no future mating will such mesalliance have any
effect on the subsequent puppies, the former belief
to the contrary having been fully exploded by
scientific inquiry. In general, do not pick out an
old sire for a young matron nor mate an old bitch
to a young dog ; both matings will result in small
pups. A healthy young bitch to a young dog in
his second year will result in a fine litter of husky
puppies. Better be on hand yourself at the ser
vice, for thoroughbreds are notional and if there
is any trouble the kennelman, if left to his own
devices, may substitute some other dog. As a
rule there is no difficulty, for your erstwhile de
mure bitch has now become a brazen hussy, re
quiring the closest of watching both before and
after service.

Your bitch must be guarded for about two weeks
more after service, which should occur in the third
week of her heat, and she will then return to
normal and will show signs of the coming family
about the fifth week. About two months after
service you may look for the litter, and a quiet
place with plenty of clean straw should be selected
for her, and the bitch kept there. A whelping
box, with a four-inch board rail, on edge, screwed
all around the inside about four inches above the

108 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

floor of the box, is a good thing to make, to avoid
having any valuable puppies rolled on or smoth
ered by the dam. The shelter tinder this shelf is
protection enough until the puppy is found and re
stored to the family. The bitch will make her
own nest in the straw of this box and you had best
not interfere with her nor attempt to handle the
new-born pups. She will attend to this matter
herself; all you are to do is to see that each one
has a warm spot next her body and that it is nurs
ing right manfully. Eight after birth also is the
time to make a record of the markings of each
pup and note his structural characteristics, for
later the fat on his little body will hide every ves
tige of his future appearance. Your principal
care for the first week will be to keep the mother
well fed ; meat, broth, bread and table scraps being
given her three times a day. Milk is good, but
apt to run to fat, which the bitch will put on her
own body instead of passing it on to the pups.
If everything is well you can see the pups grow,
and they will be quiet most of the time, either
nursing or sleeping. In two weeks' time they
should all be fat as butter, with eyes open and
every sign of getting on in the world. They are
blind until the ninth day, and after the eyes open
the kennel should be darkened lest their future

A GRADUATE IN RETRIEVING 13 MONTHS SETTER PUP

L.OOKING FOR MOTHER

A SMALL FAMILY OF CHESAPEAKES
BUT HUSKY AND WELL NOURISHED

TOO MANY PUPS

FOR HER TO FEED PROPERLY

DOG BREEDING 109

eyesight be impaired. If the pups cry and do not
seem to be gaining, call in a vet. at once, for there
is something radically wrong. These few weeks
are the most important in a dog's life; like chil
dren, if not started right in extreme infancy, they
will be handicapped for life by bodily infirmity
and weakness. The ailments that afflict very
young pups may range all the way from poisonous
milk in the dam to worms or navel ill in the pups,
all of which matters are treated in a later chapter
of this book. In general, the surest way to avoid
infection in very young pups is to have the whelp-
ing-room and everything connected with it thor
oughly sprayed with some mild disinfectant like
diluted listerine.

A bitter question here arises : If the bitch has a
large family, what shall we do with the less de
sirables? More than five or six is all she can suc
cessfully raise, or else all of them will be under
fed and liable to be carried off by the first kennel
disease that comes along. Have you the heart to
kill any of those soft, fat, fluffy darlings, each one
of which if a thoroughbred is worth at least $25 1
Yet it must be done, if the family is large and no
foster mother available. Better arrange before
hand for a foster mother if the pups are valuable.

110 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

In almost every large kennel there will be some
bitch available for this purpose.

When the pups are a week old, if they are to
be docked or any dew claws removed now is the
time to do it. A sharp scissors, dipped in carbo-
lated vaseline, is a far better implement than bit
ing off the tails or in any other way exposing the
wound to infection. Leave the future care of the
wound to the mother, whose tongue appears to be
a better disinfectant than any surgical compound
yet discovered. At three weeks' age, start wean
ing. This is a long process if properly done ; as
in children, any sudden change is almost fatal.
The pups should be first encouraged to eat a little
meat broth and milk in addition to their dam's
milk. Two small meals a day is ample; more
would effect too serious a change in the perfect
mother food that they are getting. At four weeks
the meals may be increased to three a day, and
well cooked cereals, finely chopped cooked meat,
fine cut liver, etc., may be introduced. At five
weeks, increase the meals to four a day with the
other two to be given by the dam, and at six weeks
they can get six meals a day, a little each time.
See that each pup gets his share, and use two
pans, one for the husky ones and the other for the
backward pups. Here is a well-tried menu: 1st

DOG BREEDING 111

meal, toasted stale bread and milk; 2nd, oatmeal
and meat broth with a little finely chopped meat ;
3d, puppy biscuits such as the maltoid puppy
" bones"; 4th, bread and milk; 5th, oatmeal and
meat broth, liver; 6th, a little raw meat scraped
fine and some puppy biscuit " bones" to play with.
The dam should have a shelf or other high place
to lie down on, in sight of the pups, for they will
try to follow her around and get chilled or lost if
she goes away and yet she must get more and more
rest at this time while her milk is slowly drying up.

At two months the pups are completely weaned
and ready to sell, which brings us back to the be
ginning of this dissertation. Earlier than this it
is not safe to take them away from the dam ; later,
they cost the kennelman an unnecessary feeding
bill, which must surely appear in the price asked
for the puppy. For an owner two months is a
good age ; eight months is better, and a year and
two months is the ideal age to buy.

For some time I tried to buy first-class pups a
year old and over distemper. " There ain't no
sech animile"; all the best of every litter have
been sold by that time, and you will either get a
runt or one with some defect which every one else
has seen and avoided. I have come to depend
upon Pasteur's serum to protect my pups during

112 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

the trying months from May to July when distem
per is on every urinal tree and post. The kennel-
men usually shoot in an injection and also clear
the dog of worms just before shipping, but occa
sionally they omit it or get a lot of non-active
serum, so your safest course is to get a hypo
dermic syringe ($2.50) and a dose of fresh serum
(75c.) and shoot two cubic centimetres under the
skin of each hind leg, inside the thigh or else into
the folds of skin behind the fore-shoulder. This
will immunise him for two months and will save
a dog that has already been exposed to the disease
but has not yet come down with it. You can get
the outfit through your druggist. In the fall give
him another dose, and again next spring, when he
will be over a year old and much more able to
withstand an attack of distemper. It is a terrible
disease; two out of every five bird-dogs and
hounds that get it in puppyhood die of it; down
in South Carolina, where I was quail shooting this
year, they had a veritable scourge of it, many
hunters losing nine and ten dogs in two weeks'
time. Mongrels, because of their many out-
crosses, get easy cases of it; but thoroughbreds,
which are constitutionally weaker through in
breeding and line breeding, always take it hard.
The first sign is a large yellow pustule or several

DOG BREEDING 113

of them on the belly between the thighs, and a
mattery discharge from eyes and nose. Then is
the time to get busy with your serum, which will
help lighten his case, and, if it is of the eough-and-
cold variety, dose with the patent preparations on
the market ; if intestinal, give bismuth pellets and
a fever medicine like sweet spirits of nitre, fifteen
drops in a half cup of water, half a teaspoonful
being poured down the dog's throat by holding his
muzzle shut and pulling out his cheek pouch and
pouring the liquid down the funnel thus formed.
The treatment of this type of distemper is in gen
eral like typhoid in a human ; little to eat, absolute
quiet, and fever medicine when he goes over 103°.
But, by keeping your puppy away from other
dogs during the spring, never letting him walk
with you into town or anywhere where he is likely
to smell the "sign" of other dogs, and never let
ting him get a severe chill, you can get him
through his first spring without distemper and
have a good chance of raising him to maturity.

CHAPTER VII

KENNEL, CONSTEUCTION

IT is wonderful how some time-honoured de
signs persist, regardless of their logical fitness for
the purpose intended. People copy and copy,
generation after generation, without ever once
giving a thought to possibly getting up something
better. One of these time-honoured traditions is
the dog kennel. Every one has seen one and car
ries with him a mental picture of how one looks.
Perhaps our childhood readers and story books
are responsible for the persistency of this design.
We can all recall the pictures of Fido's kennel,
and to even suggest to any man that he does not
know how to build one would be to call down wrath
and scorn on the daring heretic's head. We all
know how a kennel looks — a sort of tiny gable
house, with a large round hole in one end. It is
the accepted design, and, alas ! the worst one that
could be devised, if you asked dumb Fido's opin
ion about it. That round door hole in the front !
— how many rheumatic spots and liver chills has

114

KENNEL CONSTRUCTION 115

it inflicted upon the poor dog, when the wind hap
pens to be blowing into the month of the kennel!
Put in a curtain with a sanded hem, how long will
it stay there, and how soon will it be repaired
when once rent and torn? Those dark dirty cor
ners, unreachable to clean properly, forever un-
visited by the sun's germ-killing rays, forever a
breeding place for hordes of fleas — how many
dead and miserable pets are chargeable to them
alone ! And once Fido learns that his kennel is a
place to which he can bolt to escape punishment,
from which he can neither be dislodged nor
coaxed, how long can you maintain discipline over
him! And then in summer — did you ever try to
sleep in a closed tent in midsummer, with a small
door the only opening! recall it, once, and then
picture to yourself what a suffocating hot-box that
kennel is and will be, far into a hot summer night !
No ; we must give our kennel far more thought
than that. It costs just the same in boards, nails,
time and tar paper to build a rotten kennel as to
build a fine, sanitary, sensible one, wherefore, in
the name of common sense, let's have a good one!
Did it ever occur to you to turn the kennel side
ways, close up the ends tight, and put the door in
the side, at one end, as a possible improvement?
If your bed is around the corner, as it were, there

116 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

is no objection to a wide opening to let in fresh
air at the far end, so long as you have a comfort
able, wind-tight and draught-proof retreat beyond
the door to curl up in. That's the way Fido
would look at it, if you asked him! And then,
from your human point of view, that of being able
to clean the kennel easily, why not have the rest
of that side hinged at the top, so that it can be
opened up to expose the whole interior for clean
ing, and also in summer permit raising it up to
keep the kennel cool and provide a verandah under
which the dog can lie if he finds his bed too hot.
And so we get Ideal Construction No. 1, videlicet,
a side-opening kennel, with the door at the end of
said side, and the rest of the said side openable
from hinges placed up under the eaves. How
large? Measure your dog, some time when he is
lying flat on his side at complete ease, his legs
stretched out straight as if in walking posture.
For a setter, pointer or coonhound this will be
found to be about 24x36 ; for a smaller dog, such
as a beagle or spaniel, 20x28. With this basis of
floor area to go on we have but to decide on the
height to be ready for the work of building. The
bird-dogs and large hounds stand 24 inches at
the shoulders, and, so that the kennel may be
warm in winter, we will make it not much higher

KENNEL CONSTRUCTION 117

than required to stand up in when preparing to
curl up. Thirty inches is plenty, and the lean-to
is preferable to a gable as being easier to keep
tight, warmer in winter, and more sightly about
the place.

Such a kennel can be built out of a shoe packing
box, which one can get from the shoe store for
perhaps fifty cents, but it is a poor, flimsy thing,
and in time the boards will swell open, making
cracks which do more to make your dog rheumatic
than any other thing, unless it is that end door
centrally located which I have protested against
before. Why not order some tongue and groove
%x8 inches pine ceiling, and make a regular job
of it? Five 12-foot boards of this ceiling will be
enough, and $2 will buy the lumber, — little enough
to spend on the housing of a valuable hunting dog !
For corner posts a 12-foot piece of 2x2 hard pine
will be enough, and for nails a pound of 8-d. will
be about right.

To build, you first make the two ends. These
require three boards, 2 feet long, and one board
two feet long drawn diagonally across to make the
two slants. Cut two posts 32 inches long, and two
40 inches long, for back and front posts, respec
tively. This will give you eight-inch legs for the
kennel, the back being 24 inches high and the front

118 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

32. Nail the side boards and the slants to these
posts, making them flush with the posts. As one
slant will have a tongue and the other groove, you
will have to watch out for this in knocking to
gether the two ends, so that the tongues are up at
one end, and the grooves up at the other. The next
thing to go on is the back — three boards 36 inches
long and nailed to the ends and their posts. A lintel
is now needed, joining the two upper front cor
ners, and this is simply the uppermost board of the
front, 36 inches long, and nailed across the ends
and posts. You are then ready for the roof, which
is made of five boards 36 inches long, overhanging
front and back 6 inches, and at the ends 2 inches
each. The kennel can now be set up in its perma
nent location, and this is best with a south expo
sure to the front, and its back protected against
north breezes by barn or house corner, or the back
fence will do if not of pickets.

To finish the front you first need a post, put in
from the left-over two-inch stock. The dog door
will do nicely if ten inches wide by 16 inches high,
for even a very large dog can easily squirm
through such an opening, and there is no sense in
making it large enough to walk through at full
height like a house door. The post is then put in
with its edge ten inches from the left hand end of

KENNEL CONSTRUCTION 119

the kennel, and a hinged side, three boards high,
26 inches long, is cut and nailed to two cleats. A
pair of hinges is then put on across the crack, be
tween this door and the upper front board, and a
fastening of some sort is devised to hold it tight
at the bottom, and the kennel is built. It will need
a roofing of a piece of tar paper running well over
the ends of the roof boards, and secured with the
usual tin washers. The whole job is then given
a coat of paint, and you have a durable, practical,
warm and windproof kennel. Two fittings will be
needed, a bed of straw, sewn up in denim or duck
ticking to form a mat 24"x36", and a resting bench
24"x36" made of two strips of 2"x4" set on edge,
with slats 36 inches long nailed across them, leav
ing a space of some half an inch between slats.
This bench is more necessary than it seems at first
sight. It is high and dry and self -draining, and
is for the dog to lie on in the sun when the ground
is still too damp and cold to be healthy. In the
early spring and late fall there will be many days
of this sort, the same that make for colds and
malaria among us humans, if we sit on the damp
ground. The dog will lie on the cold lawn or the
driveway in such days and make himself sick or
pave the way for an attack of distemper if no suit
able raised bench is provided for him, for, of

120 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

course, lie does not want to seclude himself in the
kennel during the day. Then is the time he wants
to be up and doing, barking at passers-by, handy
for a pet or a caress from his master or the chil
dren, and generally "in" everything. If he is a
hunting dog then is the time he must be tied up
according to the laws of many States, and it is up
to his owner to provide him with a suitable resting
place. The straw mattress also commends itself
without argument as much preferable to plain
straw, for the mattress can be taken out and aired
and sunned every day, while the straw bed can
neither be aired nor cleaned, and, therefore, be
comes a breeding place for fleas (for they do not
breed on the animal himself). To get such a mat
tress either into or out of the ordinary kennel,
with its one opening in the end, is impossible, and,
therefore, the mattress itself is one of the most
powerful arguments for abandoning such a kennel
in favour of one whose whole side can be opened
on hinges.

In view of the low cost of this kennel we shall
not waste much space in discussing the oil-barrel
kennel, which costs about as much to buy, and has
all the disadvantages of the box kennel, besides
being too small for hunting dogs to stretch out in
when lying on their side.

BROOD MATRON KENNEL

KENNEL FOR TWO 60-LB. DOGS SCALE, 1 INCH TO 1 FOOT

KENNEL CONSTRUCTION 121

For two or more hunting dogs, I published in
my book, "Airedale, Setter and Hound," a design
which has so many of the required points of an
ideal two-dog kennel that it will bear repetition
here. A kennel big enough for two 60-pound
hunting dogs should be big enough also for a man
to enter and clean. This kennel is a permanent,
handsome structure, with concrete floor and run
way yard, an ornament to any country place, and
just what the passer-by would expect to see if the
owner keeps dogs. Its cost for materials is about
$20 (probably $25 at present lumber prices), and
the labour on it would be about $6 if you did not
do it yourself. The kennel has shingle roof and
sides, a well-shaped bunk to accommodate two
hunting dogs, a porch for hot weather, and a cin
der or brick floored yard. The designs herewith
show its appearance and detailed construction,
and the lumber list will give you the stock needful
to be ordered. The body of the kennel is 4x4 feet,
and height to the peak, 6 feet. The roof beams
are carried on down at the front to make a porch
about 2 feet wide, running across the side of the
kennel and facing preferably south. To begin
with, a 7 ft. x 5 ft. floor of concrete 2% inches
thick is laid down, and, while soft, the bottom plate
frame of 2"x4" hemlock is set in place on wooden

122 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

pegs going down into the concrete. When this
hardens (if a nail will not scratch it it is set) you
toe-nail on the corner posts and the top frame, af
ter which the edifice is squared and held so by di
agonals while you cut and fit on the rafters. The
shingle ribbing goes on next, spaced the same dis
tance apart as the shingles are to be laid to the
weather, 8 inches. The roof shingles are then put
on, beginning with the double bottom course and
laying up half a shingle less each course, so that
if you have to quit work at any time none will be
totally exposed to the sun or rain and be warped.
It takes a day's work to shingle this roof. Next
you start covering the body of the kennel. As its
sole heat will be the warmth given out by the
bodies of the dogs it is well to conserve this in
winter by getting some insulated hair felt refriger
ator car lining and wrapping it on over the shingle
ribbing, tacking it flat here and there. Next goes
on the trim, the corner finish and water table and
then you are ready for the body shingles which are
laid the same as the roof. An inside sheathing
of %-inch tongue-and-groove wainscoting will
make the kennel still warmer in winter and cooler
in summer. This is not essential, however, and
robs one of 5 inches of inside room all around.
Concrete makes a poor floor for dogs to lie on,

KENNEL CONSTRUCTION 123

for it is unmercifully cold. The only proper berth
is a low wooden bunk with 4-inch rail and a mat
tress laid in it. This bunk must not be so high
off the floor that it will let a dog crawl under it:
4 inches high is plenty. If made in an ell for two
dogs, of the dimensions given in the plan, it will
permit them to curl up together on cold nights and
lie apart on warm ones. The partition between
the two bunks across the ell should, of course, be
omitted and the bottom board match up fairly.
The bottoms should also be of tongue-and-groove
stock, so as to prevent air cracks.

For a yard for both this kennel and the smaller
one first described, a covered runway will be the
most economical scheme. The four main posts of
the yard need to be set down at least 2 feet, and a
trench dug from one post to the next. Stout
square-mesh chicken wire is then run from post
to post and the earth tamped back. Foot boards
are then run outside the posts and the mesh com
ing out of the ground is tacked to these with
staples. A top rail is run around the top of the
posts — about 4 feet high is good enough — and the
wire fencing staple from running board to top rail.
Any one of the heavy wire farm fencings will do,
and if puppies are to be kept in the yard it must
be reinforced 2 feet up with chicken wire. The

124 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

top covering may be of chicken wire in any case.

Such a yard is far preferable to a chain, or a
wire with ring and chain. The plain chain keeps
the dog too confined, and is forever getting him
wound up around something; the wire runway
with ring and short chain I never found much bet
ter approved of by my canine dependents, for
they would always sit down and bark, at the end
of the contrivance nearest the house, seldom util
ising its possibilities for exercise. But the yard
permits free, if limited, roaming, and a pair of
dogs will always get a lot of exercise, wrestling
with each other, even in the narrow confines of
the yard. Dogs form strong friendships among
themselves, and a pair of them will keep each
other in good condition, wrestling and pretending
to chew each other, off and on, all day, varying the
exercise by periods of sleeping in the sun. And
the yard is the only solution of the wandering
and adventurous puppy problem. If you have a
brood matron instead of a pair of hunting dogs,
this kennel and its yard will be of the best design
for rearing litters of pups.

As accessories, the yard will want three things :
a resting bench; a roost made of straw piled up
on some elevation like a packing box upon which
they can jump up to or down from ; and a urinal

KENNEL CONSTRUCTION 125

post put in about the centre of the yard. This
latter will be well patronised according to the
dog's nature to hoist his leg, and will save much
soiled fencing. After a case of distemper, dig up
the post and put in a new one.

For larger kennel operations, such as keeping
hound packs and dog breeding, the kennel becomes
a house partitioned into several of them. For
summer undoubtedly the healthiest scheme is a
set of outlying small kennels, each located in its
own patch of field. The combination of a peach
or other fruit orchard with such a kennel proposi
tion is a good one, about thirty brood matrons
and a few classy sires, in combination with a ten-
acre orchard being about all one man could man
age for a year-around business. Some day I may
start such a proposition myself on a southern
plantation, as the need for a large kennel in the
East, supplying good bird-dog pups at reasonable
prices is so great that all the pups raised could
be marketed with very little advertising. After
the cultivating season is over the dogs are moved
out of winter quarters and kept in separate ken
nels, with suitable fencing to avoid fights and mix
ing of puppies. It is quite as wholesome a way
to raise them as putting the puppies out to walk
at neighbouring farms, as is often done by large

126 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

breeders. These outlying kennels would, of
course, be identical in design with the one-dog
kennel described above, except that for nursing
mothers a whelping-box would be needed, that is,
a shallow sleeping box with an inner rim around
the edge of %-rnch x 3-inch stock, forming a sort
of refuge for pups that have fallen in behind the
mother's back, and would likely be crushed with
out some such gallery to protect them.

But for warmth and compactness in winter the
kennel house is needful. This will have three or
more 6 x 8-foot pens, for dogs and bitches not in
season, an 8-foot x 8-foot room for bitches in whelp
or in heat, a puppy room of the same size, and a
large 8-foot x 16-foot room for cooking and stor
age. A small steam boiler, similar to those used
for greenhouses, answers for cooking operations in
the daytime and at night is switched onto the hot-
water piping of the kennels, as a very moderate
amount of heat is well worth while in mid-winter,
and is particularly necessary in the puppy and
whelping-rooms. The great problems of success
ful kennel management are, cheap wholesome food
and isolation of disease. No dog can get distem
per without smelling or touching something al
ready contaminated by a dog that has had it.
Each of the main rooms of the kennel house lead

KENNEL CONSTRUCTION 127

out to a yard or runway, built like the one de
scribed for the two-dog kennel, the larger the bet
ter, and the healthy dogs in them are in no danger,
provided the hospital is isolated from the rest of
the kennel, and any dog showing any suspicious
symptoms removed to it at once. Distemper is
the great contagious disease, and, aside from
prompt treatment with antitoxine serum, I hold
that dry quarters and fresh air with no artificial
heat makes the best condition favourable to recov
ery. It is essentially a spring disease, and is most
rife in April and May when no heat is wanted,
whence there is no objection to isolating the hos
pital as far as possible from the main kennel.

But cooking operations are another matter.
They must be carried on on a large scale, without
danger of scorching, whence the use of steam in a
worm surrounding a large boiler. The best in
gredients are cornmeal, wheat bran and restau
rant meat scraps with bones. These are mixed and
boiled soft in the boiler, and then baked in pans
in the kennel oven, the harder the better. The
oven is best a flue attachment of the heater so
that one charge of anthracite does for all, instead
of two fires, each with its own inevitable waste of
partly burned coal, to which all small fires are
prone. Each dog will need two half-pound cakes

128 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

of the biscuit a day, and the puppies thrive on
the mash added to broken up stale bread baked
to a golden brown in the oven. The boiling of
mash goes on throughout the day, and the batches
of cakes are at the same time being turned out
from the oven, so that, aside from the cost of the
raw material, there is little waste in the food ac
count if the cook room is properly run.

This kennel house may be built of clap-board
ing, with refrigerator felt lining underneath, or
the latter omitted and a ceiling nailed across the
studding inside. The panels between rooms are
of plain tongue-and-groove ceiling. The roof is of
induroid or rubberoid paper on pine sheathing,
with a pitch of about 1 :6. The framework is of the
usual 2x4 studding and 2x6 ceiling beams. The
floor is of y%" matched yellow-pine flooring on
2x6 sills, spaced 16" and set a few inches above
the soil. Any carpenter can design the details of
this kennel, given the dimensions, and any one at
all familiar with tools can build one himself from
his own plans, with the hints given above.

CHAPTER

DUG- TRAINING

FUNDAMENTALS

THE foundation of all dog training is obedience.
Hunting is in no sense play, but work, for the
dog. He may like it, as the soldier does cam
paigning, but the essential foundations of disci
pline and obedience are there just the same.

To this end all dog training, from the simplest
order to the most complicated manoeuvre, has for
its basis command and enforced obedience. The
best instrument for this is not the strap, but the
force collar. This is a collar with a tongueless
buckle, armed inside with blunt spikes, which,
while in no way injuring the dog's skin or coat,
have the power to punish him when the cord at
tached to the end of the collar is pulled. A plain
collar is ineffective, for, while it restrains the
dog, it does not punish him. A strap is impractical
for it frightens the dog to be whipped and he is
not likely to understand what he is being whipped
for.

129

130 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

A dog's mentality is so limited that he does not
grasp the meaning of most words, so that each
command must be reduced to its most elemental
meaning before the dog can learn what it is that
you want. For example, the command ' ' Fetch ! ' '
means nothing to your dog. The word "fetch"
means to go and get something and bring it to
you — an entirely too complicated idea for the dog
to get out of one word. To him it is just another
queer sound, and he hasn't the least idea what
you want. He must, therefore, be led up to the
idea "Fetch!" by a progressive series of lessons.

LESSON I. — SIT DOWN

After your puppy, through constant feeding and
companionship, has gotten to the point where he
adores you, has every confidence in you and will
do anything in the world to please you, he is
ready, at about six months of age, to begin his
course of field training. Buy a force collar, and
then lead him to a quiet room or spot where in
terruptions and distractions will be infrequent,
and put on the collar, with short leader attached.
He may revolt at it and fight, but keep quiet, speak
calmly and kindly to him, letting him fight it out
with the collar until he realises that the only way
it will not hurt him is when he remains quietly

DOG TRAINING 131

passive to your will at the command "Keep still!"
Next, command "Sit down!" at the same time
forcing his hind quarters to a sitting posture.
Keep him there a few minutes, pet and repeat the
lesson, using the collar punishment only if neces
sary. About five repetitions will suffice to make
him sit down at command, and a cautioning finger
will keep him there while you walk around him at
increasing distances. At the end of each trial!
command "Up!" snapping your fingers and get
ting him up to come to you for a petting, praise,
and a reward of a bit of dog biscuit. This lesson
is enough for the first few days and no lesson
should extend over half an hour at a time.

LESSON II.— FETCH

Command "Sit down!" Have with yon a corn
cob. Present it to his mouth, commanding
"Fetch!" sharply. Open his mouth, instantly
inserting the cob, and, holding his mouth closed,
command "Hold it!" Eelease your hand and
make him hold the cob. If inattentive or inclined
to drop the cob, use the force collar, which should
be on him all through the lesson. He will open
his mouth to yell, when you pull the collar and
you at once insert the cob.

After holding a brief while, command "Give

182 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

up I" and take away the cob. Pet, praise, reward,
and repeat the lesson. He will soon get so he
will reach for the cob with his mouth and snap
for it at the command "Fetch!" This is what
yon are waiting for. Hold it further and further
away at each repetition, finally dropping it and
commanding "Up! Fetch !" Then drop it a yard
away; two yards; throw it a short distance and
praise and pet him each time he fetches it. You
now intersperse the command "Fetch!" with
"Dead! — Seek dead bird!" until he realises that
the two commands mean the same thing. After
a week of "Fetch!" he will get so you can drop
the cob any time and he will look for it until found
and bring it to you.

LESSON HI. — STAUNCHNESS

If your dog is of good hunting stock he will
notice and point birds at about three months. The
tendency to break and chase is very strong and
he should wear the force collar when afield as soon
as his training lessons begin. When he draws up
on a bird, call "Steady!" to calm him, and if he
starts to break and flush, call "To Ho!" and pull
sharply on the cord. The grip of the force collar
reminds him that you still have power to punish
him. In the same way the tendency to chase small

DOG TRAINING 133

birds, swallows, etc., should be checked at once
unless the dog is so backward as to need his hunt
ing instincts aroused. After your dog is at large
(with the force collar still on him) you had best
take along an air rifle and sting him with it if
he disobeys any commands to come to you or stop
chasing birds. In working on birds, thirty feet
of cord and the force collar are essential, to check
flushing and breaking shot when the covey rises.
Teach quartering and ranging in the same way,
using a dog whistle to call attention each time you
change course, waving your hand and walking
with him in the direction you wish to quarter until
he gets the idea.

LESSON IV. — GUN-SHYNESS

No dog likes the gun at first. If of good hunting
stock he will not be naturally gun-shy and your
only care will be not to overdo at first. Only one
gun and one barrel to the covey, until he gets the
idea that the gun is part of the game and is meant
to kill birds with. Some dogs, particularly
hounds, are naturally gun-shy and must be intro
duced to the gun with much caution. I am not in
favour of promiscuous shooting in the hope the
dog will like it. Better try first the excitement of
actual hunting. If the dog then proves gun-shy

134 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

(and lots of them do), he must be taken in hand
and broken of it by the starvation method. Tie
dog to kennel. Do not feed for 24 hours. Bring
out gun and plate of food. Put food near dog and
fire gun. If he bolts back to his kennel take food
away. If not, but keeps on eating, keep on firing
while meal lasts. Come again a few hours later
and offer food again, firing gun. The most stub
born case will be broken in a week of gun and meal
and the dog not only learns that there is nothing
to be scared of in gun-fire but also that he must
not be afraid of it or else lose his dinner.

The above methods of force training were de
veloped by Mr. E. F. Haberlein, the famous dog
trainer, who has broken over thirty thousand
dogs. I have used them on all of mine, after try
ing a great variety of other methods, and I have
no confidence in any other. I can endorse the
force method as sure and based on sound prin
ciples of absolute unquestioning obedience and the
power to enforce your commands. Like drill in
the Army, it is the only way to really train a dog.

The following questions and answers on dog
training and hygiene are selected from thousands
asked me during my many years as editor of Field
and Stream, and they cover many points met by
dog owners in actual work afield. To me they

DOG TRAINING 135

seem more practical and interesting than any
mere academic discussion of the subject.

FORCE COLLAR

Would you please send me information regard
ing E. P. Haberlein's force collar? Have a dog
that breaks shot and think it will stop him.

ALBEET G. TEACHMAN.

Ans. — This collar is of black leather with
tongueless buckle, and is reversible. It is armed
inside with four blunt steel stubs, and will cure
him of breaking shot.

SOME SETTER QUESTIONS

I have recently purchased what is supposed to
be a Llewellin setter, and a thoroughbred, al
though I have not yet received the proper docu
ments to confirm this.

Now what I desire to know is: What are the
markings or description of the Llewellin? The
party I purchased from advertised the dogs as
being pure white with black ears, running down
chops, with black ticks, but upon receiving the
pup I find that he has misrepresented as far as
the description is concerned, for the dog is white
with yellow ears, and a few yellow spots over hind
quarters. The pup is very thin ; in fact, his bones

136 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

almost protrude through his skin. Is a barn too
cold to keep this dog in, and what should I feed
him during the winter, or at all times? He is a
September pup.

As I am not in a position to keep a dog at the
place I reside I leave him with a farmer out in
the country, who is going to keep the dog until
spring, when, of course, I will be able to take him
back and keep him tied in the yard. The man
who is taking care of the pup has children, who
play with him every time they go to the barn.
Do you think that this will spoil the pup? And
would it be advisable for me to keep the pup with
me at all times in order to get good results for
next season's hunting; that is, if the dog can be
trained to hunt birds ? He is continually scratch
ing himself with his hind paws. Is that not a
sign of lice?

At what age can I start him hunting chickens?
Should I keep him tied up ? Where should I send
the pedigree to have it registered? Could I train
him both for woods and field hunting and get good
results on partridge and prairie chickens ?

What are the markings of a thoroughbred
pointer and cocker spaniel? And are they a good
dog on partridge?

E. F. EBNEB.

DOG TRAINING 137

Ans. — Answering your various dog questions,
would say that, until we have received the pedi
gree, there is no way for us to judge whether he
is a thoroughbred Llewellin or not. The mark
ings of the Llewellin vary all the way from the
pure white with a very little orange, to the darkest
Blue Belton, depending a good deal upon whether
he is of Whitestone, Gladstone, Antonio, Uncle
Bob, etc., extraction. We would advise your feed
ing him up this winter, and enclose our standard
dog diet herewith.

Except in very cold spells, the barn is just right
for a place to house him.

The more exercise he gets with the farmer's
children the better. It will not do him any harm
as a pup, as this winter is the time he should get
his growth.

Regarding scratching, we would suggest your
washing him all over with a solution of Boving's
or Glover's Eczema Cure, which will rid him of
any skin irritant, lice, fleas, etc., with which he
may be afflicted. He may be coming down with
eczema from improper feeding, in which case our
dog diet will set him right again.

You will be able to work him on chickens ac
cording to the Minnesota law, about next August
(as we recall it), and later take him hunting when

138 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

the season opens up. I would not keep him tied
up until next spring, when the law requires it.

Regarding pedigree, same should be sent to the
Field Dog Stud Book, care American Field, Mo-
nadnock Block, Chicago, 111.

To train him on both partridge and prairie
chickens is rather difficult, as partridge require
a close, careful dog, whereas chickens and quail
will do better with a wide ranging dog.

There are no standard markings of either
pointer or cocker spaniel. The latter makes a
very good dog on partridge.

BREAKING A PUP WITHOUT OLDER DOG

Would it be hard to break a pointer or setter
pup on quail or pheasants without using him with
a trained dog? How would you go about it?
Which would be easier, pointer or setter?

R. M. CHAPMAN.

Ans. — I do not think it makes very much differ
ence whether an older dog is present or not when
you are training either pointer or setter on quail.
The dog has to be taught by experience, and, if he
has the natural pointing instincts, your first
troubles will be breaking shot, flushing birds, fail
ing to show perseverance in hunting for grassed

DOG TRAINING 139

birds, and sometimes gun-shyness. All these faults
can be trained out sometimes by command, scold
ings, strappings, etc., and sometimes by the use
of the force collar. A good course of yard train
ing is a great help, but practical field experience,
coupled with accustoming the dog to implicit obe
dience, is the best school.

"DROPPER"

I own a handsome, lively bird-dog puppy six
months of age, whose dam and sire were both
excellent field dogs. However, his breeding is half
English setter and half pointer, and therefore one
of my friends calls him a dropper and says he is
by no means likely to turn out well. Will you tell
me whether or not that opinion is well founded?

I have been reading " Airedale, Setter and
Hound" with interest. My dog learned to sit
down and to charge very quickly, but I have had
little success in teaching him to retrieve. I have
tried at least forty times in all to get him to take
the pad at the word " fetch," but he seldom does
it without having his lip pinched. He just stub
bornly shuts his eyes and remains inattentive.
Would it be advisable to use the force collar with

him?

WM. W. ALLEN.

140 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

Ans. — The cross of setter and pointer is called
' ' dropper. ' ' If both dam and sire have been good,
active workers afield on birds, the offspring, as a
rule, make fairly good workers, too ; but for fu
ture breeding the dropper is worthless. The time
required to train a dropper will be fully as much
as taken up by a thoroughbred, one who, when
trained, commands a price, if desired to be sold;
while a dropper seldom gets an offer at anything
near the former.

Eetrieving. — " Would it be advisable to use the
force collar with him?" The question is also the
answer. " Shuts his eyes and remains inatten
tive " — that's it, exactly. By use of force collar
he will be made to open his eyes and take notice
suddenly — in fifteen minutes he will fairly snap
at object to grab it to prevent punishment and
henceforth obey promptly at the word.

A CURE FOB BOLTING AND CHASING

What course would you advise me to follow with
a setter pup not quite a year old that is hard-
headed, takes a switching good-naturedly and soon
forgets it? He points, backs, stands and hunts
cripples and singles in fine shape, does not flush
any birds. Only he will run and race and does
not come in when you call him nor slow down any

DOG TRAINING 141

unless yon almost holler your head off. He does
not know me yet, as I just bought him.

EDWIN B. KELLEY, JB.

Ans. — You had best purchase a force collar.

Take the dog out afield with about thirty feet
of cord and force collar on and break him of
running away by stepping on the force collar
leader every time he shows a tendency to bolt.
Then when he starts, shout "To Ho!" just before
the force collar fetches him up. He will soon learn
that "To Ho !" is not to be disobeyed. If he gets
out of hand do not shout at him, for it simply
shows him you have no real command over him.

I would advise commencing this treatment
promptly, before this dog gets into the habit of
chasing and disobeying your commands.

GUN-SHY DOG

I have a setter dog fifteen months old, just
received from trainer, November 10.

He is well bred, has an excellent nose, staunch,
finds and handles birds in a workmanlike manner.

Have gunned him three days and each day he
seems to get more nervous.

The first day he would come to heel after shots
were fired, but after a time would go out and hunt

142 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

again. Yesterday after the first shot he would
not hunt at all.

Each time the old dog would stand and there
were indications of shooting, he would crouch
close to the ground and tremble, and could not
be induced to back old dog's point.

He will not leave and is not afraid of the gun
only when you assume a position to fire.

He has always been nervous and high strung.
I am at loss what to do, for without a gun he
handles birds like a veteran.

If you could suggest anything which would cor
rect this fault I would be a thousand times obliged.

HAKOLD B. DAVIES.

Ans. — From your letter it seems to me that your
dog is not naturally gun-shy, but has been forced
by his trainer to remain staunch during gun fire.
He is clearly afraid, and like some hounds that
I have owned is inclined not to hunt when there
is a gun around. I doubt if you can break him
this season of it.

Keep him out with you — if necessary on force
collar and leader. I think you will have to put
a day in occasionally without shells in the gun
until he gets his confidence, using either just
primers alone or little loads which would not make

DOG TRAINING 143

much report. This is asking a good deal of a man
to do in the middle of the quail season, but once
a dog gets gun-shy he is very hard to hreak. If he
still persists, put him through the course of cure
by starvation.

BREAKING A DOG OF MOUTHING THE BIRD

I have a young pointer bitch which is about
eight months old. She is a good worker, but she
has one fault. When told to " Fetch!" she always
chews the bird, and some time before she gets to
you she has eaten the bird up. I would like you
to tell me if you can how to break her of this habit.

I have stopped hunting with her on that

account.

S . J. BABTELL.

Ans. — Get to bird as quick as you can. Take
from her and beat her severely. Make her "fetch"
it again, and if she chews whip and scold her and
take bird from her. Make her fetch same bird
again and again until she will bring it without
daring to mouth it. Another way is to prepare a
dead bird with pins inside, replace skin and then
make her fetch it until she no longer bites it. Bird
should be held firmly in mouth, not picked up by
one wing.

144 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

GROUSE DOG

I have a pointer dog, excellently bred, about
three years old, which I have hunted a good bit
on partridge. He comes of a strain of quail dogs
and has the hunting instinct almost to a fault,
points very tensely, retrieves, etc., very intelli
gent (much above the average), is a fine compan
ion and well house-broken, but is altogether too
fast for grouse hunting, flushing his birds almost
as soon as he gets scent and seemingly enjoying
it. I have tried force collars, ropes, etc., and even
got a sort of harness to hold him to a trot, but

all to no purpose.

H. C. MUBBAY, M.D.

Ans. — I think you are "up against" a pretty
severe proposition. A dog that is used to quail
and a fast ranger is pretty "sot in his ways,"
and what you want is the exact opposite — a dog
that is quiet and cat-like in his hunting and with
a keen nose for the faint scent of a single grouse.
I would be inclined to trade him, if I were you, for
a good grouse dog, preferably a Laverack Setter
of one of the well-known grouse strains. I doubt
whether any trainer can make over this dog with
out ruining him as a field dog.

DOG TRAINING 145

HARD MOUTH IN POINTERS

A friend of mine has a pointer, which during
the present hunting season has developed a very
hard mouth. Can you inform me whether or not
this fault can be corrected, and how? The dog
is five years old, and is a grand worker. Until
this season his retrieving has been of that brand
which leaves nothing to be desired. It began by
his mouthing wounded birds. He was scolded for
that, but not punished. The fault developed rap
idly, until at the present time he can be depended
on to practically ruin the great majority of his
birds. An attempt is being made to correct the
fault by the force system, by which he was
trained, but up to the present time the results
have been negative. Any suggestions will be
greatly appreciated, both by my friend and my
self.

DE. H. S. ROBINSON.

Ans. — We usually cure hard mouths in our
pointers and setters by beating them severely the
instant they mouth a bird. Then hand the bird
to the dog again, and he will usually bite for it,
and then give him another licking. About the
third time he will be afraid to touch it, and then

146 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

you can lay a feather of the bird across his nose
and he won't touch it.

We cured old Jack of this in a week, although
it was mighty hard quail shooting, as we had to
beat him to the birds for it.

Making a dummy with pins inside is often ad
vocated, but I think the lessons must be given with
a freshly killed bird to be effective.

YELPING ON TRAIL

Please advise me of the best way to break a
hound dog of whining and yelping when he is kept
in his run, other than whipping.

Ans. — Regarding breaking a hound dog of
whining and yelping, would say we do not believe
it can be done, as it is in the instinct of the dog
and we see no particular advantage in not having
him give voice on the trail. The only mute
hounds that we know of are crosses with shep
herds or other stock.

CURE FOR BREAKING SHOT

I have a setter I got in Georgia, and while he
has a fine nose and is a grand ranger and very
staunch on points, he has never been broke to
charge and will break shot. He is a year and six

DOG TRAINING 147

months of age. Can you give me a tip on how to
remedy these faults! He will not stand whipping,
but is very high strung and looks well bred.

BENNETT.

Ans. — Buy a force collar and steel tent peg.
When dog comes to point, snap a 30-foot leader to
force collar buckle and peg down other end. Flush
birds and shoot. If dog rushes in yell "Charge !"
— peg and leader will do the rest. A few repeti
tions will cure him of the tendency to break shot.
Haberlein's force collar is a good one and not
cruel. Whipping will do no good whatever.

BIRD FLUSHER

Please tell me the best way to break a dog that
is 18 months old of wilful flushing of birds.

The dog is thoroughly broken in every other
respect but flushes, and would you advise whip
ping, or what methods would you take ?

Kindly let me know as soon as possible, as I
have a fine young setter that even retrieves nicely

but flushes every point.

J. LEON COLE.

Ans. — Eegarding breaking a dog of flushing : at
18 months he will do it a good deal if allowed to

148 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

chase when a puppy, but will get over it in his
second year.

FLUSHING IRISH SETTER

I have an Irish setter three years old, beautiful
hunter, but fails to stop on the birds ; has a ten
dency to flush the birds and then trail them like
a rabbit hound. In all other ways dog acts beau
tifully. Can you advise me what to do in the
matter!

R. RUSSELL. ROBINSON.

Ans. — The best cure for your dog would be to
buy a force collar and check cord and then train
her not to flush according to directions given in
elements of dog training.

BREAKING A FLUSHER

I have a Llewellin setter dog, five years old,
which I just bought from a man in whom I have
great confidence.

I had never seen the dog till he arrived (No
vember 1st), and the next Saturday and Sunday
I took him out to give him a trial. At first he
chased a few rabbits, but I soon broke him of that.
Then he flushed three birds. Finally he got the
scent of the place from which the last bird got
up and stood it nicely.

DOG TRAINING 149

After that he was fine and did not miss one the
rest of the morning.

When the season opened (November 10th) I
took him out shooting with me and I never saw
such rotten work. Had a fine pointer with us and
as soon as he would make a stand my dog would
come running over and flush the whole bunch.
This happened time and again (he only made one
stand the whole day).

Next day I took him out by himself, thinking
maybe the pointer had upset him. But he never
stood one — flushed them all.

Now, before passing final judgment on him I
thought I would write you, because you are an
authority on dogs and I am not.

C. CABELL.

Ans. — I think that all your dog really needs
is a week's shooting to steady him down. Very
often both setters and pointers will act wild at
the opening of the season and be very trying in
the way they break shot, rush in and flush birds
and do about every other thing that a well-broken
dog should not do. They usually steady down
after about a week of scolding and getting used
to hunting again.

150 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

RETRIEVING AIREDALES

I have a chance to get a registered Airedale
free of cost, and the breed is recommended by this
owner to make good dogs for quail and prairie
chickens. If they are not good for that I do not
want one at all. Can they be trained like a setter
or pointer? H. B. CAKB.

Ans. — An Airedale can be taught to retrieve
both quail and prairie chicken.

We do not compare his scenting powers with
either a pointer or setter, but he is a fine dog, and
if you can bring him up and take him frequently
afield with pointer and setter he can undoubtedly
learn the game as many of them have done.

WHICH IS THE BEST DUCK RETRIEVER f

I want to buy a good duck dog, one who will
do first-class work on both land and water. I
noticed a number of different kinds of dogs adver
tised in your magazine, but as I do not know much
if anything about the different breeds of dogs I
am at a loss to know what breed to get.

In this country we have shooting from blinds
on shore, from boats out in the rushes, and also
pass shooting on dry land where a great number
of the ducks will fall on dry land, in tall grass, in

DOG TRAINING 151

brush and even in timber where the dog cannot
see the ducks very well but has to find them mostly
by scent.

Now the question is, which is the best all-around
dog, or breed of dog, for our purpose, and in a
country where the water gets very cold, especially
late in the season. P. B. GAASS.

Ans. — Either the Chesapeake or the Irish water
spaniel would be my selection for your duck dog.

AIREDALE AS A RETRIEVER

Kindly inform me if you can if Airedale dogs
make good retrievers, and how do they compare
with spaniels. What I want to get is a good re
triever for ducks and have been informed that
Airedales make good retrievers, but are they as
good as spaniels for this purpose?

H. C. MILLEB.

Ans. — Regarding the Airedale as a retriever, I
would say that he would do better as a duck re
triever than the spaniel because he has the double
coat and is just as good a swimmer. The Airedale
can stand cold water longer and better than the
spaniel. He is not as good a retriever as the
spaniel, but can be easily taught. Most of my
spaniels will jump right in after a stick thrown

152 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

into the water. However, the Airedale has to be
taught first of all by dropping him overboard and
letting him swim to a boat until he gets to like
swimming, and then you can teach him land re
trieving, after which he will go after sticks thrown
into the water. Of course, once he gets that down
he will retrieve ducks for you as well as anything
else that you might want picked up in the water.

IRISH SETTER VS. IRISH WATER SPANIEL

I wish you would tell me which one of the two
dogs is the best for ducks and low ground hunt
ing — the Irish setter or the Irish water spaniel?
Where can I buy such a dog!

JOE MORONI.

Ans. — It is an open question as to whether the
Irish setter or the Irish water spaniel would be
the best for duck and low land shooting. Both
breeds have their ardent admirers, and you will
have to judge for yourself.

I know a number of men who absolutely swear
by the Irish water spaniel and, of course, have a
great many more friends who think the world of
the Irish setter.

DOG TRAINING 158

A GOOD WATER RETRIEVER

I am writing to you for information regarding
the desirability of using a dog to retrieve ducks.
I am a member of a club in which we have excel
lent canvas-back and red-head shooting, both from
a pass and over decoys from a boat. Another
place furnishes fine mallard, teal and blue-bill
shooting, both from a pass and boat. In common
with most duck-shooters, I lose a great number of
wounded birds. In your opinion, does a good dog
find and properly retrieve the ordinary wounded
duck and bring it to a boat, as well as on land? I
have read with a great deal of interest the articles
appearing in Field and Stream from time to time
on retrieving, and my attention has been attracted
to the Chesapeake Bay duck retriever. In your
opinion is this dog preferable to any other breed
as a retriever, and is he suited to my needs? If
so, can you put me in touch with a kennel which
breeds and trains these dogs, preferably one near
here, if possible?

What ought I to pay for a young Chesapeake
Bay dog, well broken to both shooting from a
boat and from a pass, and can I buy such a dog?
If I bought one, would keeping him in the city,
and at home, where there are children, have the

154 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

same deteriorating effect on him that it does on
a setter or a pointer?

WAED AMES, JB.

Ans. — A well-trained retriever should find and
retrieve to boat all your wounded ducks. The
Chesapeake Bay dog and the Irish water spaniel
are, in my opinion, the best two dogs for the pur
pose. I should say that a pup of either breed
would cost about $50, and a young dog, well
broken, from $100 to $150. I would not advise
either breed as city dogs, any more than pointer
or setter; they require lots of exercise, a good
range, and no restrictions such as the city puts
on any and all dogs.

TRAINING A BEAGLE PUP

I have several dogs, two beagles and a pointer,
and would appreciate it if you would answer the
following questions :

1. At what age should a beagle puppy begin to
hunt well, and give voice to trail?

2. Should a dog be whipped or petted to make
the best hunting dog?

3. At times I notice what appear to be small,
flat worms sticking on the hair about the arms of
the pointer. I have given several remedies with-

DOG TRAINING 155

out results. What kind of worms are they, and
what is the best remedy?

H. C. Voss.

Ans. — Regarding your question concerning the
beagles and pointer, would say that the beagle
puppies should begin to hunt at nine months, al
though some of them start earlier.

Question No. 2, whipping or petting to make the
best hunting dog, would say that you have to use
judgment. The important thing is to be sure to
have the dog know what he is being petted or
spanked for.

For instance, if you wish to make him rabbit
proof, call him off a rabbit trail and whip him if
he persists, and be correspondingly lavish in your
petting or praise when he does well with coon or
'possum.

Regarding the worms in the hair, around the
arms of your pointer: Rub him with a dose of
Glover's Eczema Cure under each arm pit.

MUTE HOUND ON NIGHT TRAILS

I want to find out how to train a hound so that
he does not bark on night trails. I have had
more than ten dogs in the last two years, and
most every one barks on night trails. I have a

156 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

bitch at present that I would like to break of this
habit if there is a way to do it. She is eighteen
months old and a fine hunter.

GEORGE W. HODES.

Ans. — Eegarding the training of your hound
not to bark on night trails, we do not think it can
be done, as it is in the hound blood, and it is very
doubtful whether you can train out an instinct of
this character. It would simply break the dog's
spirit through continuous lickings, the reason for
which he is not likely to understand. He is apt
to consider that you are whipping him for follow
ing the trail itself, and quit hunting altogether.

A cross of shepherd dog in a hound will make
him run mute. It is the only way to get a mute
trailer that I know of.

OVERRUNNING THE SCENT

We hunt rabbits with two dogs, one a foxhound
and beagle and the other is supposed to be the
same, though I doubt it. Well, the point is, they
start a rabbit and run a short distance and lose
him through overrunning. They seem to go per
fectly crazy, and the first turn the rabbit makes
they go on by sometimes three or four hundred
feet before they find out they are off trail. They

DOG TRAINING 157

start lots of rabbits but lose them. Now what in
your opinion is the trouble?

We run at least once a week and sometimes
three or four times.

I got one of my dogs from a popular kennel
and was supposed to get a foxhound and beagle
cross, but he looks more like a fox terrier than

a hound.

L. R. HENDERSON.

Ans. — The overkeenness and general behaviour
of your hounds can all be attributed to lack of
work and experience. Fortunately they are good
searchers and starters, the most important qual
ification of a hound. All they require is repeated
opportunities to learn to hold a trail and not over
run or be deluded by the wiles of br'er rabbit.

Hunt your dogs every other day for a week and
then every day for a few days. When they lose
a trail do not let them range out and start another
rabbit, but insist upon them working close and
sticking to the first rabbit until the kill is made.
By proceeding along these lines we assure you
that their progress in solving the problems of the
trail will be gratifying.

Crosses between beagles and hounds frequently
display a good deal of terrier type. In fact, when

158 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

you begin crossing dogs, even those as closely re
lated as hounds and beagles, you never know
what to expect.

HOUND LOSES TRAIL

I have a foxhound about one and one-half years
old which I use for hunting rabbits and cotton
tails. While hunting he works very earnestly,
but after getting a trail and giving tongue he
seems to lose the trail altogether. Am sure he
does not back trail. He is a full blood "Walker
strain foxhound. Kindly advise me of some way
to overcome same.

JERRY SOMMER.

Ans. — Run the dog with an older dog for at
least one season. He is hardly over being a pup
yet, being only eighteen months old, and many a
foxy old cottontail will give him the slip, whereas
the older dog would be on to his tricks and pick
up the trail again.

Your pup will get discouraged if he loses out
on many trails, but he will learn all the tricks of
the game and be much more encouraged if he finds
that the majority of trails lead to successful con
clusion in the catching of the rabbit, which will
generally be the case when an older dog is on

DOG TRAINING 159

the job beside him. He has plenty of initiative
and will not lose it by running with an older dog.

FOXHOUND FOB BIG GAME

I am the owner of a Walker foxhound puppy
and being no adept at training dogs or even pre
tending to know much about them I would con
sider it a great favour to have you answer a few
questions for me. They are : Do yon think a fox
hound can be made to be a good dog for hunting
grouse and pheasants? Would you advise trying
to teach him to hunt both birds and bear!

My idea in getting him was to have a dog for
hunting bear and cougar, but as there are lots of
grouse and pheasants here and as I only wish to
keep one dog I wondered if he could not be taught
to Tiunt all the above-mentioned game.

J. L. LINN.

Ans. — I wouldn't let your hound hunt grouse
and pheasants or rabbits either. It will be hard
enough to make him rabbit proof as it is. My
experience in Montana has been that grouse of
all kinds are easy enough to see from the moun
tain trails without the aid of a dog, and rabbits
are very plentiful. I have shot many a one with
the six-gun from horseback. Keep your hound

160 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

pup strictly on big game and depend on a quick
eye for grouse, fool hens, rabbits and the like.

HOUND WILL NOT HUNT

I have a hound that is not doing anything on
trail this year, but was supposed to be a good
dog when I bought him. He will not hunt, only
when he strikes a warm trail, and generally fol
lows behind your heels. He had the distemper
this spring, but got over it all right, as I thought,
but I have noticed him stand and go to sleep and
fall over. He seems to have a good appetite, but
has no ambition. HAPPY JACK.

Ans. — I think your dog will come around all
right next year. Do not expect too much of him
after getting over distemper. You are lucky to
have brought him through at all.

You cannot expect a human being to show much
energy the first year after typhoid — so the same
with dogs with distemper.

HOUND FOR LONE TRAPPERS

Would like to ask you what breed or breeds of
dogs would be most suitable to train on fur. I
am a young trapper and came to the city a few
years ago, and the necessary confinement is fast

DOG TRAINING 161

taking my health and strength, and am planning
a trip into the upper peninsula of this State to
regain my health and make a living from the fur
bearers of that section for myself and wife. If
you could give me this information as to dogs and
where they can be secured, or a better place to go
for fur, I would appreciate it more than you can
imagine. Thanking you for advance kindness, I
remain yours truly, wishing you success in your
fascinating business.

HOWAED BRATJN.

Ans. — "We would advise a coonhound of the
Redbone or Walker strain as the best dog for your
purpose. You can buy them already broken on
fur, which would be your best procedure, as you
are in no position to train him properly.

CUBE FOB GUN-SHY PUP

How would you go about breaking a gun-shy
pup? The pup is not much afraid of a gun, but
still after you fire it once on a trip out he keeps
his eye on you afterwards. He doesn't run home,
but slinks back.

If you will be kind enough to give me what in
formation you can I am sure it will be greatly

appreciated by me.

BERNARD L. SWEENEY.

162 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

Ans. — Your pup is not very gun-shy compared
to most of them that are addicted to the habit.
He simply needs more accustoming to gun-fire.
Tie him up alongside of you when practicing with
rifle or shotgun. Don't pay any attention to him,
but keep on shooting, occasionally resting gun or
arm over his back when firing. He soon learns
that there is nothing to be scared of.

A CHASER

Last year I purchased an English setter bitch,
whelped March 2, 1914, and found that I had a
gun-shy dog. To make my story as short as pos
sible, we have broken her from this evil, leaving
no trace whether in city or field.

I have had the pleasure of hunting this dog a
great deal this season, and she has over eighty
birds killed over her. She has the best nose of
any dog in this locality, and never runs over her
bird whether in the wind or away from it. I have
hunted her in the Black Forests of Pennsylvania
from sunrise to sunset for five straight days, and
the last day with a heavy sash cord strapped to
her neck, and then she worked as willingly and
as hard as ever. I worked her when she had only
three feet on which she was able to walk, but
always with the same persistency. She is an ex-

DOG TRAINING 163

cellent retriever, with a very tender mouth, and
if the bird is dropped, no matter where it is, she
finds it. But for all this, she has three faults
which are bad.

Pardon me for enumerating them, but this is
the advice that I ask :

1st. She will point rabbits until they run and
then she will chase them. Would you advise pur
chasing a rabbit and keeping it throughout the
year until hunting season, in her presence?

2nd. When she comes to a point, and I go in
to flush the bird and find that it has run, she acts
wild and rushes in and goes quartering until she
finally gets the strong body scent, never with her
nose to the ground, and jumps right in on the
bird in one grand leap.

3rd. She locates her bird, is staunch, but when
the bird flies or runs and she sees it, she chases
after it. I have strapped her repeatedly for this,
but repeatedly she does it again.

I would not bother with the dog, but old hunters,
pot hunters, have told me she is a wonder, and I
have had to refuse several large offers for her.

She is not for sale at any price.

N. F. HAND.

Ans.— You have too fine a dog to dispose of for
those three faults. Put a force collar on her, and

164 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

when she next points a rabbit, tie the cord fast
to a bush or stake and flush the rabbit yourself.
She will bolt after it and get punished by the col
lar. Steady her down in the same way when road-
ing birds. She holds her head high because the
scent is so strong. Do not whip her for breaking
point. Put on a force collar, and check her with
it every time she breaks. Strapping is too late
and too apt to be misunderstood by her.

CUBING GUN-SHYNESS

I have a puppy by Commanche Frank which I
have taken out twice. She seems a little fright
ened when you shoot several times in succession,
still doesn't run, but won't come when called.
Don't know whether she is exactly gun-shy or not.

Please write me how to manage her if you have
ever had any of that kind to handle.

A. B. TAYLOB.

Ans. — I think that you are making your dog
gun-shy by giving her too much gun at the start.
Once the habit of gun-shyness has been acquired,
it is very difficult to break it. Most dogs are not
naturally gun-shy, but become unreasonably
frightened by unwise and careless shooting before
the dog gets used to hunting.

DOG TRAINING 165

I would suggest your spending several weeks
with her with the gun, but without shells, walking
up one covey after another, until she gets thor
oughly fond of hunting. It seems to me that you
have enough to do at present to teach her in
getting her staunch, etc., without bothering with
the gun. Later on you can try killing one quail
on the rise and letting her find it, until you get
her used to retrieving. From that time on she
will come to regard the gun as part of the game
of hunting and will get over what fear of hunting
she has now.

CHAPTER IX

DOGGY QUESTIONS AND ANSWEES
REDBONE HOUNDS

I would deem it a favour if you would give me
the name of a kennel owning a pack of "Redbone"
hounds.

Should be delighted to read any information
you may have relative to the work of these hounds
on deer in the mountains of California. I have
used these dogs on coon in the Southern States
and have seen so-called "trailing hounds " work
on deer in this State. From my limited experi
ence with them here it seems that time does not
enter into their calculations.

A great many hunters here are shouting the
praises of the Airedale, naming his superior in
telligence, his speed, running only warm trails,
etc., as being attributes not possessed by the
hound. My experience with them has been limited
and for which, so far, I am thankful. Personally,
I like the hound if he be well broken.

J. R. SCOTT, JB.

166

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS 167

Ans. — The Eedbones are from the Big Hatchie
Kennels, Covington, Tenn. They have a fine rep
utation in the Rockies, where they hunt big game
with Airedales and crossbreeds. I know of several
famous packs using them either pure or crossed
on some other strain to give more speed.

STAGHOUNDS

I am going to ask a few questions. I have two
staghounds and one half-stag and half -greyhound
and two greyhounds. The two greyhounds are
eighteen months old and the other three are pups.
I use them to catch jack rabbits with. The jack
rabbits are not very plentiful around here. I
have only caught twenty since the first of the year.

Which is the right name for the so-called " stag-
hound " or should they be called "Scottish deer-
hound "f I have a book on hounds and I cannot
find a breed by the name of staghound, but I find
deerhounds, and my pups resemble the last
named. Who is right? What can you say about

the Irish wolfhound?

HEEBEET MIDDLETON.

Ans. — The ancient staghound is extinct. The
"Scottish deerhound" of modern bench-show
classes is a large shaggy type of greyhound. The
Irish wolfhound is a much heavier and larger dog

168 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

with broader head, wire hair and ferocious ter
rier expression, usually dark brindle in colour.

THE BASSET

Please give me a description of a Basset hound
as to size, build and markings.

ARTHUR B. FOWLER.

Ans. — Basset hound stands low in leg like the
dachshund, is somewhat larger than that dog, and
is tri-colour. Of French origin, stands about 14
inches and weighs around 20 pounds.

A CUR FOR COON HUNTING

I have been thinking about buying a pup half-
hound, quarter rat dog and quarter cur.

Do you think this pup will make a good 'possum
and coon dog if properly trained?

This pup has got lots of spirit and looks like
a hound. EDDISON SMITH.

Ans. — This pup will be a smart dog all right,
but I doubt whether he has nose enough for either
coon or 'possum. He could probably locate a 'pos
sum den, but he certainly could not take up a fresh
coon track, and follow it through all the tricks
and dodges that Brer Coon puts into his trail.

You can get a good coon hound pup of Eedbone

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS 169

or Walker strain for $10. The really expensive
part of him is the time you have to put in in
training him.

THE BEAGLE FOR RABBITS

I would like to get some advice from you as to
what kind of a dog to get for rabbit hunting.
Rabbits are the game of this country, and they
are plentiful. Would you recommend a beagle
for rabbits or what kind of dog would you get

if you were me?

J. R. DONOVAN.

Ans. — I should certainly advise you to get
either one or a brace of beagle hounds. These
dogs are rather small, standing about 15 inches,
and are ideal for cottontail rabbits, as they do
not run them too fast, giving the rabbit a chance
to circle instead of running straight away. Their
food bill also is much less than that of the large
foxhound's and coonhound's.

HOUND WILL NOT HUNT

I have a hound dog which I got last spring for
mink and skunk, but he will not range out and
hunt, and seems to be lazy. Is there any way of
making him range out?

170 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

And should a hound range out and hunt like a
bird-dog?
How old a trail should a hound follow, such as

mink and skunk I

MAEION HENBY.

Ans. — The best way to get your dog to hunt fur
animals is, to get hold of a 'possum, coon, or some
other small live animal and train the dog to track
ing. He is lazy at present because he has not
had his hunting instincts aroused, and has no
ardour for the chase.

Take him along with some other man's hound,
going cooning — it would do wonders for him.
After he has once been through a coon hunt, he
will be plenty ambitious enough to hunt on his
own hook every time he strikes a fresh trail.

Answering question number two — would say
that a hound does not range out like a bird dog,
but potters around until he strikes a scent that
interests him — from that time on he is busy un
raveling the trail.

Answering question number three — would say
that in weather not too dry, an experienced hound
can pick up a trail two days old, although they
are much more likely to pick up a trail made the
night before in such a plentiful and good game
country.

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS 171

SNOWSHOE RABBIT HOUND

We have a rabbit dog, half foxhound and half
beagle. What do you think of that cross? Very
popular here with hunters on account of deep
snows.

I should like a list of spaniel points such as you
gave for beagles once in your paper.

LEANDEB P. MOBTON.

Ans. — The cross of beagle and foxhound makes
a very good snowshoe rabbit dog and is practically
a standard combination for deep-snow hunting.
The standard beagle is too small for this work, to
my mind.

Regarding the points of the cocker spaniel, we
would quote you as follows: Skull, 8; muzzle, 10;
eyes, 7 ; ears, 4 ; neck and shoulders, 15 ; body, 18 ;
legs and feet, 18; stern, 5; coat, 10; colour and
markings, 5 ; total, 100.

A ROAMING AIREDALE

I have just been given a thoroughbred Airedale
dog; he is now eight months old, would like to
know how to make him stay at home and mind in
general, as he is of registered stock, his fathet
being registered on the other side five years ago ;

172 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

so am very anxious to make him mind and do
some tricks while he is young.

Anything you can tell me of their good quali
ties and how to train him will be appreciated very

much by the writer.

Louis K. FRAY.

Ans. — Airedale pups at eight months old are
very stubborn, wilful, don't mind and are con
tinually running away. Keep a close watch on
him; tie him up or yard him up a good deal and
have patience. There's no use beating him; he
won't stand for it. He will "find himself" at
about thirteen months' age. Shoot him with an
air rifle when he strays out of bounds and will not
come back at command.

AIREDALES AND IRISH TERRIERS AS HUNTING DOGS

Please give the comparison of hunting and
other qualities between the Airedale and Irish ter
rier. Also advise as to where information can
be obtained in connection with securing a good
Airedale and Irish terrier, and what book you
would suggest covering information as to care,

etc., of dogs.

WM. H. G. NEUMANN.

Ans. — The Airedale is bigger and heavier, and
because of his part otter-hound ancestry can be

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS 173

taught to make a good all-around hunter. The
Irish terrier is mostly a family and "earth" dog
for small game.

THE BEST DOG FOB BABBITS AND WOODCHUCKS

I wish you would tell me what breed of dogs
or mixture of breeds you would recommend to
hunt rabbits and woodchucks and make a good,
all-around dog, also what material and dimensions
you would recommend for a woodchuck hook?

EDGAE C. PALMER.

Ans. — Beagles and Airedales are the best breeds
for your purposes. A good beagle can be pur
chased at a moderate price from any of the dog
breeders advertising. Make your woodchuck hook
out of a 12-inch, three-corner file with a two-inch
pointed hook at one end and an inch right turn at
other. This to be lashed to a pole when dog has
holed the woodchuck.

THE FOX TERBIEB AS AN EARTH DOG

I was recently presented with a fox terrier
puppy and would like to know if a fox terrier will
hunt. If so, what? "Will it retrieve birds if
trained? Is it a good water dog? Can it be

trained to follow a trail?

OILMAN S. HAKLAN.

174 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

Ans. — You can train your fox terrier as an
earth dog for small game. It can be trained to
retrieve birds by any of the usual methods. It
is not a good water dog because of its smooth
coat, although in warm weather the foxy makes
out very well and will retrieve anything that you
may throw in the water or anything you point out
for him to get. I do not think that it is possible
to train a fox terrier to follow any trail because
nature has not given him the nose. Almost all
animals that leave a trail are pretty well up in
the game and pull all kinds of tricks to throw off
the dog, which will baffle even the keenest hound,
besides which the scent is so faint that the fox
terrier has no chance. He is, however, a very
smart little dog and will give you lots of pleasure.

RUNAWAY DOG

Please give me any advice possible on the fol
lowing matters. I have an Irish terrier two and
a half years old, who roams away from home
whenever possible. He also wishes to fight other

dogs on every occasion.

J. H. W., JB.

Ans. — You must make him less of an every
body's dog. See that his home quarters are com
fortable and that he has a place that he can call

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS 175

his own. Get your friends to treat him harshly,
drive him away with sticks and stones and tread
on his paws when he comes up to them. He will
soon get the idea that you are his only real friend
and home the safest place. Don't whip him or
scold him when he comes home, as he will not get
your idea at all nor realise what he is being pun
ished for. He will only come to avoid and dis
like his home and you. As to fighting, all terriers
love to scrap. You will have to head him off and
show him that fighting other dogs displeases you.
Try also stinging him with an air gun when he
tries to leave the place.

THE AIREDALE AS A HOUSE DOG

I would like to get information about Oorang
Airedale terriers, as to their dispositions, conduct

and actions about the house.

Gus ATWATEB.

Ans. — The Airedale makes an ideal house dog,
has a nice disposition, is watchful and courageous
and could be easily house-broken. The Oorang
Kennels, of La Rue, Ohio, originated the Oorang
strain Airedales, which do not differ materially
from any other strain of the high-class breed.
They have, however, produced a number of win
ning dogs for bench shows and the hunting field.

176 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

AIREDALE AS A WATCH DOG

Will you kindly recommend a breed of dog for
general pal around a farm and for watchdog. I
want one that will get up and fight a little at
night, if necessary. If possible, would like to get
a dog that would go along to the duck blinds and
could be taught to retrieve. Have been thinking
of getting one of the larger type Airedales, but

would like your advice.

E. G. HAEWOOD.

Ans. — The Airedale would be the ideal breed for
this purpose, as he is a natural fighter, watchdog
and water dog and learns easily to retrieve.

A GOOD DOG FOR THE CHILDREN

1. What kind and where would you advise a
young man buying a pet dog that can get along
with children, but need be no hunting dog.

2. I never had a dog and would like to know
when to buy! Should young or old dog be bought?

3. How large a place should dog have?

4. How warm should place be kept in winter.

CYRIL C. BOBIONE.

Ans. — 1. Get an Airedale from any good
breeder.

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS 177

2. The best age to buy is 8 months, but the
cheapest, 2 months.

3. Give him the run of the house and grounds.

4. Make the kennel wind and rain tight and just
large enough for the dog to stretch out in. His
body heat will warm it.

BEST PET DOG FOR THE HOUSE

I would like to know the best kind of dog to get
to make a pet of for the home for my wife and
daughter. I want a dog that I can teach a few
tricks, as well as being clean about the house ; also
at what age should the puppy be.

H. G.

Ans. — The best kind of a dog to get for a pet
for your wife and daughter would be either a
wire-haired fox terrier or a Boston terrier. The
Airedale is rather big and not handsome enough
to please the women. The wire-haired foxy is an
exceedingly intelligent little dog and has not the
nervousness and fussiness that made the smooth
fox terrier so unpopular.

I should get a pup from about four to six
months old, which would cost you from $25 to
$50,

178 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

A DOG FOR SQUIRREL HUNTING

Will you kindly inform me what, in your opin
ion, is the best kind of dog to purchase for hunt
ing squirrels? Would a combination hunter do,
such as would tree " coons, " 'possums, and trail
rabbits as well?

In this part of the country (the Cumberland
Mountains) the squirrel hunting is excellent, but
the hunting is confined chiefly to the negroes and
the mountaineers, who use common hounds and
mongrels. My little boys are eager for the sport,
and if I get a dog for them I want to have some
thing better than the " suck-egg " variety of

hound.

JOHN M. McBRYDE, JR.

Ans. — A good family dog that could be taught
to tree squirrels is the Airedale. He is faithful,
courageous and affectionate, and is a splendid
watchdog, and can be taught retrieving and sight
hunting of all kinds ; he soon learns to tree mark
a squirrel.

THE AIREDALE AS A PHEASANT DOG

Will you kindly give me your opinion as to
making a bird-dog of an Airedale? In my part
of the country we have only pheasants to hunt.

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS 179

and I would like to know if it would pay to try
and train an Airedale pup to point and hunt them.

WHITNEY P. HOWES.

Ans. — We think an Airedale would be a very
good breed for the purpose, as hunting pheasants
with either pointer or setter ruins the dog.

The pheasant runs ahead of the dog, and will
not stand point, and the result is encouraging
both setter and pointer to break point and flush.

A small beagle is one of the best dogs to trail
them with, as he keeps right on going and puts the
pheasant into the air, where it can be shot.

Running your Airedale with either beagle or
bird dog will teach him the trick, and make a good
dog for the purpose.

/

BABBIT, COON AND WILD-CAT DOG

Would you please advise me as to what kind of
a dog to get. I want a dog to hunt rabbits, coons,
wildcats and grouse. Is there a dog that could
be trained so? What do you think of an Airedale
pup? Could I train it myself?

Also, would the 22-calibre long rifle cartridge
be large enough for wildcats, not cougars?

E. P. LAWBENCE.

180 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

Ans. — If you will cut out the grouse from your
dog's list of accomplishments you will get more
satisfaction out of a coon hound than any other
dog for combined rabbit, coon and wildcat in a
country where such game abounds. An Airedale,
however, can be trained to hunt all of them, as
many a man in Maine has done, and, in your
State, he would probably make a good selection,
although he certainly would have to run hounds
for a year or so to get enough experience, or, if
you have the time, you might train him on coon,
bobcat, etc., by letting him track them and tree
them; also have a mix-up with them, so as to get
thoroughly used to this kind of a game. After
that there would be no trouble in his following
a reasonably warm scent of any of these animals,
although the Airedale does not make a good cold
trailer.

The 22-calibre long rifle is plenty large enough
for bobcat, and so is a good club!

For sights, we would recommend a combina
tion globe and ivory bead front sight, a folding
bar sight in the rear notch and a folding tang
peep on a tang of the rifle stock.

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS 181

MAKING A DOG RUN MUTE

As to making a dog run mute, there is a pretty
houndish looking dog occasionally that will al
most still hunt. Airedale and hound have made
a good cross for a gentleman here. The bull
terrier and hound also make good. As an all-
around small dog, I like an Irish terrier and
beagle. Now you said that whenever a fellow
was stumped to write you. I am badly stumped.
I have been trying for seven years to get a rabbit
dog that I can enjoy, but to no avail. Getting
stung every time I send away and so on has al
most got me cornered. I have several hundred
in it, too. What I would really like is a dog like
those New York long-ear or symmetrical red bone
of the American standard or medium light dogs
that are rough enough to hunt all week, hard,
from sun up to sun down, resting of nights ; that
are willing hunters; that don't hunt too far away
from one; who seem to know where to look for
a rabbit; and that can and will take a track run
the night before, trail it up to noon and jump,
trailing straight, not going over and over their
tracks or poking around, but trail them up at a
fair rate of speed for trailing. When one jumps,

182 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

run at a speed not great enough to pop a cotton
tail right in his hole, but what is considered me
dium speed ; be able to run 75 per cent to the gun
or hole or patch, not over-running like the stand
ard American hounds do, and being a good homer
and not too easy to take up with strangers. I
would prefer a bawler or long clear cry or a deep
bay or a coarse chopper, but no yap, yap. I
thought since you can find these qualities in some
dogs, having one or two of them there might be
among such dogs as the Buckfields or such of those
strains that are up in New England that would
be like the foregoing. I have a dandy cocker span
iel who seems bright and as nice coated as the
dogs I see in the magazines, who has hunt in him,
but I can't get him to look for rabbits when with
me. I would like to get him to retrieve them, but
can't. Will probably discontinue using the span
iel as a brush dog and take one-half Irish and
one-half beagle again, as I know they will work
better, and are easier to teach retrieving.

I broke an old-time hound in this way so that
whenever he caught a rabbit he would bring it
back in his mouth, and the method I used was by
rolling a ball when the pup was four months old.

Gus WHITMEE.

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS 188

Ans. — We are glad to get your letter about the
Airedale hound cross running mute. I have seen
a good many of these dogs but have never seen
one work, and was under the impression that they
barked on the trail.

Eegarding teaching your spaniel to retrieve,
have you run him with a beagle after rabbits yet?
I have had several spaniels and they were all good
dogs to put up rabbits. After starting the rabbit
they would follow, barking continually. As they
do not go very fast, the rabbit circles. To make
him retrieve, I would begin by teaching him to
"fetch," or making him sit down and open his
mouth to take something. After he gets that
into his head, by successive steps you get him to
take anything you hand him at command; next
to pick it up at command, and, finally, to go and
hunt for something at a distance and to bring it
to you. If this is done with a dead rabbit from
the first, I believe you will have no trouble in
teaching him to retrieve rabbits.

HOUND AND AIREDALE CROSS

1. I have a nice English beagle hound one year
and five months old, and a friend of mine has an
Airedale terrier which he would like to cross with
my beagle bitch. Do you think it would make any

184 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

kind of a good dog, i.e., for coon or opossum?
My beagle is good on rabbits, but the Airedale
isn't trained to hunt, he's only a trick house dog
but full of grit. This friend of mine says it will
make the best all-around coon dog on the mar
ket.

2. Do you know of any one that has crossed a
beagle with an Airedale?

3. What or which is the best way to train a
dog to hunt and tree a coon? What breed of a
dog?

4. I know of a dog that tongues on a rabbit trail
and also on quail and pheasants, on the latter two
she generally gets on her hind legs and looks
ahead when she gets near them; the dog looks like
a beagle hound only her hair is kind of kinky.

J. J. PUDLINEB.

Ans. — I have seen several crosses of Airedale
on hound, and, like all direct crosses, the result
ing pups are very uncertain. Most of them are
just plain worthless, having neither of the good
qualities of the parents. A good many throw
back to one side or the other, having just enough
hound in them to spoil their looks as a terrier,
or just enough terrier in them to spoil their effi
ciency as a hound. Once in a while a cross turns

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS 185

out to be a wonderful varmint dog, so that you
can count at least a couple out of every litter that
will be worth while.

SIZING UP THE PUPPY

Can you give me any enlightenment as to
whether there is any way of telling that a puppy
is well bred?

I recently became owner of a puppy whose
mother is an English setter, father is also sup
posed to be an English setter ; both are black and
white, also my puppy, but she has short hair, more
like a pointer; has a good nose, long ears, and
is very prettily marked.

Can you tell me if there is any way of knowing
if I have a well-bred dog? j A LITTLE.

Ans. — All setter puppies are short-haired when
very young. The feather does not begin to show
until the fourth month. Ears at two months, how
ever, should have curly, silky hair and coat should
be silky. Get, if possible, mother's pedigree. Dog
will show up whether cross or not at about four
months of age.

CHOOSING A DOG

Which of the following would be the most pref
erable dog for watching, ratting and general pur-

186 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

poses : Airedales, Irish, Scotch, Yorkshire, Skye,
West Highland or fox terriers, or any other dogs
that may be better for the above purposes that I

have not mentioned?

WM. H. NEUMANN.

Ans. — We prefer the Airedale if you want a
dog that can kill a tramp instead of merely bark
ing at him. In cities or thickly settled suburban
districts the Irish and fox terriers would be
preferable. If there are children about, Airedale
or Irish make good playmates that will not get
cross or snap.

MAKING THE PUP CHICKEN PROOF

I have an Irish setter pup about six months old.
I have to keep him tied up most of the time ex
cept in the evenings. I have a bunch of tame
chickens, and if the dog is loose he will immedi
ately start after them and if left loose I believe
he would kill the bunch.

I killed a chicken near his house the other night
and he almost went crazy trying to get at the
chicken.

Is there any way I can cure him of this habit,
a whipping don't seem to do him any good.

J. W. GORMAN.

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS 187

Ans. — Eegarding making your setter pup
chicken proof, you should be glad that he is crazy
to get at them, as it shows that he is a proper bird
dog.

It is, however, essential to make him chicken
proof, and the best cure is to hang a dead chicken
about his neck, tieing it to his collar and leaving
it there for a few days until he gets to hate the
scent of chicken.

I would, however, put this off until he is well
broken on quail, or he may lose interest in the
entire bird-hunting game.

AMBITIONLESS PUPPY

I enclose a picture of a dog which I have had
five days on trial. I believe that she might have
been a good dog had she been fed so that she
would have had strength to hunt. She was tired
out, no desire to hunt, but would lie down at every
chance. In the company of another dog she
worked better, but alone she was too listless to
do anything. I am enclosing you a picture of the
dog so that you may see what she looked like. It
cost me in the neighbourhood of $6 to have her.
I do not censure Field and Stream, but am de
sirous of letting you know how I fared.

0. H. STEOUSB.

188 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

N. B. — The picture does her more than justice,
as she was even ' * skinnier ' ' than she looks on the
photo. I would be pleased to know your opinion
as to whether she was in condition to be sent on
trial. Are kennel dogs always sent in such an
emaciated condition?

Ans. — In my experience of buying puppies I
find that they often arrive from the kennels as a
mere bag of bones. Of course, every ounce fed
the dog while in the kennels lessens the profit
made on the dog.

It usually takes from three weeks to a month
to feed a dog to put him in good condition. Of
course, you could hardly expect her to show any
ambition to hunt until somewhat fed up. It is
possible also that she may have worm trouble.

I hope you kept her long enough to give her a
fair trial. You are under no obligations to pay
for a dog until satisfied as to whether it would
work well or not. Some of them develop gun-
shyness later, and you can never decide from a
snap trial.

BUYING A HUNTING SETTER PUP

I am writing you for advice in regard to the
purchase of a dog. I am in the market for a setter
puppy. It does not seem to me that I shall ever

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS 189

need the high-strung, bench-show type of ani
mal, but rather a common-sense, easily kept, use
ful kind of dog that will be acceptable around the
house, and also be ready to give me some fun next
fall, when the season opens again. Perhaps I
am wrong but I have an idea that a dog from some
nearby kennels here in the northern and eastern
States would stand this climate better than one
from the south or west. And in such a case also
I might possibly go to choose the dog personally.
As to whether it should be a red, Gordon or of
the other variety, I am hoping to rely on your
advice. And as to which kennels or where I am

also at sea.

DR. EDW. E. EVANS.

Ans. — We would not advise either Gordon or
Irish setters for your purpose. You will prob
ably use him mostly on partridge and woodcock
in the country around Utica, and the red dog gets
lost too easily, whereas the black and white Eng
lish setter can be spotted in a moment, and has
a generally better makeup than the Irish setter,
and is easier to train. The Gordon is practically
extinct in this country, though a few of them are
working down South.

I should advise purchasing a Laverock dog,
because you are much more likely to get one with

190 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

grouse-hunting instincts already deeply rooted
in him. Puppies of bench-show sire and dam are
apt to be apathetic — that is, their hunting facul
ties have lain dormant for one or two generations,
and you have to awaken them through a long
course of free hunting through puppyhood.

It is very much better to start off with a puppy
who will point almost as soon as he can waddle
before he gets into the habit of chasing and run
ning wild, which it is very hard to break him of.
Scout was such a puppy and was never any trou
ble at all to train. Such dogs are easily pur
chased from grouse dog kennels, who breed them
exclusively for woods shooting work. Let the
kennelman select the puppy for you, as he can
pick out a good one much more surely than you
can. Do not try to get a grown dog — almost all
the good ones are snatched when very young —
from two to four months — price about $25.00, and
raise him yourself.

A WORD FOR THE IRISH WATER SPANIEL

The Irish water spaniel is a dog that stands
pre-eminent for all forms of water retrieving.
His coat is practically waterproof and affords him
absolute protection from the coldest water. For
nose he has a Chesapeake skinned a thousand

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS 191

yards, and, what is equally important, you will
always find Mm just the same ; he never gets stub
born or sulks like our Maryland friend. He will
also make good on quail or other upland birds,
though I will not (being candid in the matter)
class him with a well-trained setter or pointer.

I believe I can safely say that I am one of
the largest breeders of these dogs in the United
States, and I have only just begun. I have just
about concluded the purchase of one of the most
noted prize-winners of this breed that could be
found in Ireland, and with him come two splendid
bitches. PEECY K. SWAN.

THE LLEWELLIN SETTER

Are all English setters white and red spotted;
are all Llewellin setters black and white, with
tan tips over eyes and on lower part of upper
lips, and which is the best breed of dogs for quail
hunting? J. E. GILLESPIE.

Ans. — All Llewellins are English setters, the
name Llewellin referring to a special strain de
veloped by Mr. Llewellin. So many of them were
imported into our country that a large division
of English setters in the country are more or less
Llewellins. A dog showing Llewellin on both sides

192 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

would be classed as a pure-bred Llewellin, the
colour markings have little or nothing to do with
it. For quail any English setter is good, pure
bred Llewellins winning more stakes than out-
crosses and Laveracks.

ORIGIN OF THE GRIFFON

Could you please tell me the origin of the
pointer, griffon and foxhound?

VINCENT NIXON.

Ans. — All three developed from the coursing
hound of the Middle Ages. The early pointing
hounds of 1750-1800 had the bushy tail of the
modern foxhound curled on high, thin muzzle and
other houndy characteristics which changed as the
breed was established as a pointer. The griffon
is a French breed undoubtedly descended from
the Russian wire-haired pointing hound. He re
sembles a shaggy pointer with wire hair and
docked tail.

THE COLLIE AS A POINTER

On the farm I was on out in the West, the
farmer owned a nice pure-bred collie dog, and I
would like to know if same could be converted into
a prairie-chicken dog. This is about the only
thing I would like him for, because I can get all

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS 193

the snipe, ducks and jack-rabbits I want myself
without the aid of a dog. If I could just get him
to point them alone I would be satisfied. He has
one good trait: when he flushes a prairie chicken
or a covey of them he runs up to them easy and
directly they take the air he stands stock still and
does not attempt to chase them. But he has the
bad fault of ranging around wherever he likes,
and being on the open prairie he runs about pretty
well as much as he likes and where he likes. I
think that with a collar and chain on I could teach
him to keep close to me and not range anywhere
from 5 to 500 yards away from me. I would ap
preciate any information on this matter you could
possibly give me. P. DEDOSSEB.

Ans. — You never could teach the collie to find
and point birds, for he has not the nose nor the
hunting instincts. Better get a setter pup and
keep him at the farmer's. He would be glad to do
so free for the sake of having a good bird-dog to
use.

SETTER OR SPANIEL?

I am considering the purchase of a pup in either
a field spaniel or setter, as there are many quail
on the farms near my home, partridge in the wood
lands and occasionally a few ducks stop in the

194 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

ponds nearby, or I go for them on the river after
the ponds freeze.

Which would be the handiest all-around dog
for a small home?

Will a field spaniel point quail and partridge
as a setter would, or will he invariably rush in
and flush them? At what price ought I to get a
fair pup that I can train myself?

HENEI SCHONHABDT.

Ans. — Field spaniel will run and flush quail,
and you have to hunt too close to him for that
reason, so that he cannot range to find a covey.
Better get a good Irish setter for your purpose.

A GENERAL HUNTING DOG

As a reader of your magazine for several years
I have had much enjoyment, and many good sug
gestions from it. Seeing your kind offer of in
formation, I would like a little. I am looking for
a dog. I want the dog that will give the best re
turns for hunting and as good for the home as
possible — an all-purpose dog. He must work on
ducks, rabbits and squirrel. What's the breed?

EDW. E. DOUGHTY.

Ans. — We advise an Irish setter as the best
combination dog for this mixed hunting.

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS 195

IRISH SETTERS

I would like to get your advice about dogs,
especially in regard to Irish setters.

I have read in your magazine, as well as in
others, advice to always purchase pups whose
parents are actual field and hunting dogs — not
just bench and show dogs. Will you advise me
what would be a good breeding of such a pup, and
could you give me the names of one or more
breeders wJiose kennels are headed by good hunt
ers, as well as well-bred dogs — parties on whom
I could rely.

I have a letter from "Walter McEoberts, in
which he says that he intends to breed Highland
Rose to Sammy Oge, owned by F. E. Morrow,
Hawkeye, la. Are both of these dogs field dogs,
and what do you think of that breeding?

ROBT. L. RUTAET.

Ans. — Either the Law, St. Cloud or Morty Oge
stock is good. Irish setters make equally as good
hunters as bench dogs, as they are not bred exclu
sively for the bench as some English setters are.

BUYING AN IRISH SETTER

I want a red Irish setter, but find it impos
sible to obtain what I desire. I realise the fact

196 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

that if the dog I want was broken he would cost
me something like $300, which I don't care to
pay. I would prefer breaking the dog myself
and then I would know him and he would know
me. In this event I would think that it would
be a good idea to buy a puppy. I want a pretty
dog and one that has plenty of sense and well
bred; that is, of good stock, and that will not
be too large when grown. I also would like to
have a Gordon setter or Llewellin.

Will you please advise me of some reliable per
son that I could get this dog from?

D. B. GASKILL.

Ans.-^I would advise writing to either Dr.
Charles A. Gail, of Rutland, Yt., who can prob
ably put you in touch with some good Irish setter
pups, or to the Ulster Kennels, of Eidgeton, Miss.,
who are advertising puppies.

Regarding a Llewellin setter, P. I. Appleman,
of the Thoroughbred Kennels, of Atlantic, la.,
can get you some good pups.

I do not know of anybody at present who is
breeding Gordon setters.

BAD HABITS IN A CROSS-BREED

(1) My dog has two habits which I would like
to cure him of.

QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS 197

When I am hunting he will hunt on ahead of
me and then stop and wait for me to come up.
And I have to cheer him on again. How can I
break him of it?

(2) I would hardly call this a habit :

He will not bark when chasing or trailing an
animal or game, and seldom barks when animal
is treed.

I think he is a mixture of pointer and fox ter
rier. He is a fine hunter and rat dog, and points
birds and quail sometimes. What shall I do?

EDGAR LEWIS.

Ans. — The two habits you mention are char
acteristic of a dog of this kind. You cannot ex
pect a mixed breed to specialise as well as a thor
oughbred.

The pointer in him evidently makes him mute
on game. This is a matter of instinct and inherit
ance.

Eegarding the other fault, we would not try
to break him of it. You do not want a dog of
this kind too far ahead of you, and you cannot
expect him to work up birdy country the same
as a thoroughbred. You had best keep him a good
deal in your company.

CHAPTER X

DOG DISEASES

CHOREA AND ITS TREATMENT

I have an eight-months-old Llewellin setter
that has some disease that causes him to jerk
apparently in his left front leg, but his whole body
jerks after taking exercise.

He had distemper when a pup and has had this
disease since.

Please advise if there is any cure for him, as
he has the appearance of a fine dog.

E. L. HEDBICK.

Ans. — Your pup has chorea, which is an after
math of distemper and it will take a long while
to cure it.

I would recommend Fowler's solution, and for
pups it should be diluted in the preparation of
one-half an ounce of Fowler's solution to one
ounce and one-half of water. The commencing
dose is sixteen drops of the foregoing mixture
for breeds of medium size. This should be given

198

DOG DISEASES 199

three times daily in the food, and the dose should
be increased one-fourth after every third day.

After having given the mixture thirteen days,
stop for three days and resume with the same
amount of dose as you stopped at. This you
continue until the dog has taken forty-eight drops.
After this there should he a second stop for three
days, when the use of the medicine should be re
sumed, beginning with forty-eight drops and de
creasing every three days with one-fourth of the
total dose. This treatment is continued for about
three months.

A TOUGH CASE OP CHOREA

I have been advised to write you for advice
concerning my dog.

I have a very fine English setter dog, just a
year old to-day. Was a very active and precocious
pup up to about the middle of October last, when
he showed symptoms of distemper.

I took him at once to a very good veterinarian,
who gave him three inoculations of distemper
serum at intervals of a few days apart. I never
saw a quicker or more complete recovery, and
he gained nicely in appetite and flesh for about
ten days or two weeks, when he began to show
symptoms of chorea in his right shoulder mus-

200 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

cles. Have had the same veterinarian treat him
again for a month and he grew steadily worse,
but the trouble has never affected any other part,
or set of muscles, just the right shoulder.

The leg is held up at the elbow tightly against
his upper leg muscle, but only when he is standing
or exercising, and jerks continually.

When he lies down he always lies on the af
fected side, and when asleep is perfectly quiet.
Does not touch foot to the ground, but suffers
no pain from it, yet his sense of feeling in the leg
is 0. K. That is, it is not paralysed. Muscles
are slightly shrunken from habitual disuse, but
not noticeably. He got down to skin and bone
and so helpless I had to carry him to and from
his kennel.

I then gave him Fowler's solution of arsenic,
commenced with three drops, increased to fif
teen, then back to nothing, twice. His appetite
came back and he gained in every way except that
continual muscular twitching and jerking in the
right shoulder only, and that decreased consider
ably in severity. I am continuing the Fowler's
treatment, but for the past month I can see no
improvement in the muscular twitchings. At
present he feels fine, is apparently in perfect

DOG DISEASES 201

health, aside from that, eats well, sleeps well and
is in good flesh.

If I could get wise to something that would
knock out that muscular spasm, I think he could
and would use his right leg again 0. K. It has
never become flexed or set in one position. He
stretches a great deal and straightens it out him
self to normal position, but pulls it up again when
he gets up, and the spasms keep it jerked up
when he lies down.

Can you think of anything more I can do for
him? I can't think of destroying him, and my
wife would not allow me to anyhow. She cares
for him like a spoiled child.

Hints on treatment, care and diet would be
greatly appreciated and reciprocated when pos
sible. His sire is Grouse B. 0. (30163), win
ner of the New York State championship trials
at Middletown last fall, and also Pennsylvania
champion. Dam a Whitestone Searchlight bitch,
Onondaga Gypsy (36502), a beautiful individual.

MARK G. BROWN.

Ans.- — Regarding your puppy, would say that
I think you are on the right track with Fowler's
solution, only you have not continued it far
enough. I would advise an increase of three

202 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

drops at a time up to forty-five drops ; then rest
three days and drop back three drops at a time
until you get back to nothing; then a week's rest
and recommence the treatment. So long as the
dog is feeling well and shows no watery eyes,
you can continue the treatment for several
months. It usually takes about six months to
a year to get the best of a case of chorea such
as the one you described.

DEWCLAWS

I have a young setter bitch that has dewclaws
on hind feet which get very sore when hunting
in stubble and brush ; I wish to know if they can
be removed and how? She had a litter of eleven
pups, three of which have dewclaws also, if they
can be removed would it be better to do so while
quite young?

Should a well bred setter have dewclaws?

H. G. KUKELIE.

Ans. — A good veterinary can remove dewclaws,
but if you attempt it yourself it will likely make
the dog lame for the resulting sore is slow in
healing. The claw itself can be snipped until
it is quite short. Snip it little by little with sharp
wire cutters. With pups under three days old
the dewclaws are just cut off with sharp scissors.

DOG DISEASES 203

TRAIN-SICK DOQ

I would like to know if you could inform me
as to the cause of my setter getting sick. When
I take him on train he works for about two hours
then he gets so sick that he lies down. He has
the symptoms of a dog with blind staggers, and
he is never in that condition only when I take
him away. I am sure he is not affected with
worms in any way. Do you think this trouble
could come from his nerves? If you can en
lighten me in any way or refer me to any one,

please do so.

THOMAS L. WILLIAMS.

Ans. — Your dog is evidently train-sick and ner
vous. Probably did not digest food from ner
vousness while on train. Do not use him afield
until at least a day after the train journey. Put a
little lime water in his food.

BRONCHITIS

I have a very fine setter bitch, about four years
old, and about three months ago she began to
cough a little. I thought she was taking dis
temper, so tied her in a dry place, and began
to give her Glover's distemper cure. I gave her
two bottles, but she did not seem to get any bet-

204 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

ter. She had a very good appetite all the time,
but her throat seemed to be sore, and seemed to
hurt her when she would eat, and sometimes she
would choke badly. She has become a little bet
ter, but still is not well by any means. She coughs
very little when she is still, but when she begins
to take exercise, she will begin to cough, and it
is not an unfrequent thing for her to fall flat
and stretch out as if dead when she has one of
these coughing spells. She is a very fine dog,

and nicely trained.

0. B. WINSTON.

Ans. — From what you say, we are inclined to
think that your dog has one of the forms of bron
chitis.

Kennel her in a dry place, and give her a table-
spoonful of cod liver oil (Scott's Emulsion is
good) in her bowl of food at each feeding.

CAB-SICK DOG

I am writing you in regard to a Llewellin pup
that is about 4% months old. She gets very sick
when she goes for a ride in the auto. She vomits
and slobbers all over herself. Is there anything
I can give her, or do to prevent this?

FOBBEST LEATHEBMAN.

DOG DISEASES 205

Ans. — Pup is too young for automobile rides
and evidently has weak stomach. Dogs vomit
very easily. Best leave her home until she is at
least a year old.

BLACK TONGUE

For sore mouth or black tongue a sure cure
that a friend of mine has used with much success
is as follows: Give a tablespoonful of castor oil
and then swab the mouth out three times daily
with a wash composed of tincture of iodine one
ounce, carbolic acid twenty drops and glycerine
one ounce, mixing well before using.

B. L. LUCAS.

SPRAINED HIP

I have an Airedale pup, eight months old, and
he has been lame in his left hip for two months.
I had the local veterinarian look him over and
he says the pup sprained or pulled a ligament
loose in the socket, and advises me to keep the
pup tied up to avoid too much exercise, and
give the hip a chance to heal, but it would be a
slow cure. This seems probable, but as he is so
young, and growing so fast, his leg does not de
velop, for he carries it most of the time. Would
you advise the use of iodine on the sprain, or

206 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

apply liniment and massage his hip? He walks
on his leg some, but not enough to develop it.

P. W. BAUER.

Ans. — Regarding the case of sprained hip with
your dog, I would simply keep him from too much
exercise and let nature heal it up. These cases
are slow and usually last about two months, but
your dog will surely get well if he is not over-
exercised.

I would not use liniment or iodine.

SPAYING PUPS

We would not advise you to spay bitch pups.

Spaying takes all of the ginger out of them,
and as a general rule makes them worthless and
without ambition in following the trail or fight
ing varmints.

SORE EYE

I have a pointer puppy, ten months old, whose
eyes have been inflamed for about two months.
They do not seem to pain him, but are very much
blood-shot, and in the morning they have in them
considerable matter. His general condition is
excellent.

I have used a solution of boric acid, wiping

DOG DISEASES 207

the eyes about three times a day, but the con
dition does not improve?
What do you suggest?

WM. DE L. WOESLEY.

Ans. — Your pointer probably has catarrhal con
junctivitis, a disease of the mucous membrane
of the eye. It is self -limiting and he will get over
it in time, but you must keep down the inflamma
tion as much as possible. We suggest an eye-
dropper and both eyes washed three times daily
with borax in camphor water, ten grains to the
ounce, and lids to be rubbed with vaseline at
night. Keep out of light for a few days and open
his bowels with a dose of castor oil and feed only
meat broth and broken stale bread baked to a
golden brown. He should show improvement in
a week's time.

EAR CANKER

I have a spaniel and he has something the mat
ter with his ears. He is always scratching them
or shaking his head, and yelps as with pain when
they are touched. His ears have an offensive
odour, and are running more or less all the time.
I have bathed them with salt water, but it does
not seem to help any.

I would like to know what is the matter and

208 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

also a remedy, and would be obliged if you could

furnish me with such.

A. B. JACKSON.

Ans. — Your spaniel has external otitis, or ear
canker, probably from overeating and lack of
exercise as basic cause. See that he gets a good
run at least twice a day and goes out with you
whenever you go for a walk. A mild solution
of boracic acid in lukewarm water poured into
the ear passage once a day will take care of the
interior inflammation, and whatever >sore part
of the ear can be reached with the fingers had
best be rubbed with zinc ointment for eczema,
which you can get at the drug store. Hockwalt
gives the following ear lotion: Goulard's ex
tract of lead, 1 oz. ; laudanum, 1 oz. ; fluid extract
witch-hazel, 1 oz.; water, 2 oz. A teaspoonful
warmed and poured into the ear once daily. Try
this if the boracic acid solution does not appear
to be strong enough.

DEAF BEAGLE

I have a Beagle hound puppy nine months old,
and about six weeks ago I first discovered he
was deaf. Can there be anything done for him?
His head is not sore, and I am unable to find
anything out of the ordinary. He is out of a first

DOG DISEASES 209

field trial winner, and I am very desirous of sav
ing him.

F. F. FOSTEB.

Ans. — Ears may be plugged with wax down in
the passage above the drum, in which case a lotion
of a teaspoonful of glycerine and a teaspoonful of
bicarbonate of soda and a little sweet oil in
two quarts of water will loosen it. Put in
fountain-syringe bag and wash out dog's ear
three times a day for a week. If he begins
to shake his ears and show signs of pain he
may be getting canker of the ear and will need a
lotion of a crystal of permanganate of potash in
lukewarm water, enough to redden solution well.
Drop in a teaspoonful, daily, warmed to blood
heat.

EAR CANKER

Taking advantage of your kind offer of advice
re0arding dog ailments, would like to describe
symptoms and ask advice about a rabbit hound
a year and a half old.

The ears are full of a soft wax which seems
to annoy him, causing him to go about shaking his
head. The ears are not sore now but have been.
Two different doctors say the trouble is canker
and have prescribed formaline and glycerine,

210 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

alcohol and boracic powder, and finally I have
tried sweet oil and witch-hazel as warm as he could
stand it in a syringe. He is better but not cured.
Can you suggest anything else?

I have learned that a few drops (4 or 5) of
turpentine on sugar was an excellent thing for
expelling either tape or other worms.

C. A. BBOWN.

Ans. — Regarding external canker of the ear in
your rabbit hound, we would suggest treatment
with oxide of zinc ointment, or Goulard's lead
mixture, which you can get at any drug store.

We think the ear trouble is a form of eczema,
and would suggest changing his diet of corn
bread and feed him instead with stale bread
baked until golden brown in the oven, broken up
in his bowl with dog meat broth poured over and
a little well cooked meat. Cut out oatmeal, fresh
bread and any non-nutritious food likely to cause
eczema.

PARALYSIS

Would you allow me a suggestion in your
treatment of the case of Mr. Thos. Irgens? I
do not want to be forward with this suggestion,
but I have had excellent results in similar cases
where you have a paralysis or simulated paraly-

DOG DISEASES 211

sis in the hind extremities of dogs. In addition
to your treatment, I give a few drops of Fowler 's
solution of arsenic four times daily, commencing
with two drops and gradually increasing to four
drops four times daily. Increase a drop daily
until the four drops are reached, then continue
until improvement has reached a high degree. I
am not a dog veterinary but just a dog lover,
and treat my own dogs. This treatment has given
me excellent results in two such cases as Mr.

Irgens described.

E. G. EEPLOGLE.

PITS

I have a pointer bird pup that is subject to fits
while hunting. He never has a fit only shortly
after you have flushed a covey of quail and shoot
two or three times, then he will stop, look around
as though he was scared, drop his ears close to
his head, clamp his tail and start to run, making
possibly two jumps, and then run in a small circle
two or three times, and then falls over. He will
lie for two or three minutes, kicking and slob
bering, and his head generally draws back over
his side or neck.

He has never had but one fit in a day's hunt ex
cept once, when he had two within twenty minutes.

212 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

The dog is eleven months old and has been
having these spells for the past two months, hav
ing nine in all. You can hunt for hours without
affecting him unless you get into a covey of birds.
The first few spells did not seem to affect his
hunting, as he would hunt as well after the spell
as before, but lately I have noticed that it seems
to take all the pep out of him.

He is good size, very fast, and covers consid
erable territory for a young dog. I will appre
ciate any suggestion you may have to offer.

W. S. WHATLEY.

Ans. — Dog is a mere pup and evidently of the
nervous type. Give him a heavy meat diet, cod
liver oil, tablespoonful once a day. Needs feed
ing up and possibly cleaning out of worms.

To relieve : plunge in hot water if near home.

I have a female St. Bernard, six years old;
one year ago she started having fits, and has had
them at almost regular intervals two or four
weeks apart, but the last two were in one week,
and seemed to be worse than the others. She
holds her hind leg up, walks a piece, falls down,
looks around at herself, crying, and then goes
into a fit, which lasts a few minutes, opens and
closes her mouth ; when she gets up she is dazed ;

DOG DISEASES 213

if water is put into her mouth she laps it; the
day before she has a fit she makes a queer noise
in her throat, and after it is over she coughs, at
other times she is well and lively. I have had her
examined by three veterinarians, with no result,
treated her for worms, tapeworm, indigestion,
nervousness, and she is not constipated; has no

heart trouble.

T. J. M.

Ans. — Give 10 grains bromide potassium in a
little camphor water 3 times a day and put her on
mild diet of dog-meat broth and broken up pieces
of bread baked to a golden brown in the oven.
Give plenty of milk and little exercise for two or
three weeks.

HOOKWORM

(1) English setter dog, fourteen months old,
is big in bone, but does not take on flesh, although
he has a ravenous appetite. I have given him
areca nut about three times since he was six
months old, and on each time he passed a bloody
mucus, which did not stop until he was treated
by a veterinarian. This dog seems to be in good
health, but when hunted for about three hours
becomes very weak and sometimes can hardly
walk. What treatment would you suggest!

214 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

(2) Setter bitch, three years old, has a dry,
hacking cough until hunted for about half an
hour. Her eyes usually run when she coughs.
Advise treatment.

Ans. — (1) Possibly your dog is infected with
hookworms. Better have a microscopical exam
ination made of the fecal matter to see if it con
tains the eggs of the hookworm.

(2) Examine her throat for goitre; if no goi
tre is present give a good expectorant cough
syrup, which can be obtained from your druggist.

WORM REMEDY

Would you be kind enough to inform me what
and how much to use as a worm remedy for a

four-months-old Pomeranian?

DR. M. BENSON.

Ans. — One-fourth teaspoonful of buckthorn
syrup once a week.

WORMS

I have obtained a fox terrier and find he has a
bad case of worms. He seems to feel fine in
every other respect. What can I do for him!

H. T. HUTCHISON.

Ans. — Buy 5 cents' worth of pumpkin seeds,
mash and boil half an hour and serve on his food.

DOG DISEASES 215

Also give a teaspoonful of syrup of buckthorn
once a week.

PUMPKIN SEEDS FOR WORMS

Read some time ago an article stating a good
treatment to give a dog having worms.

Want to know how often to give him pumpkin
seeds, and how much at a meal.

HOMEE EAMSDELL.

Ans. — For a mild case of worms and to keep
them down, would advise syrup of buckthorn once
a week, a teaspoonful. For a bad case of tape
worm get five cents' worth of pumpkin seeds,
boil and divide in two parts. Put one on feed
and follow in three days with the other in case
worms are not cleared.

ARECA NUT

Please advise me what to do for my Scotch col
lie puppy, just six weeks old. About two weeks
ago she had worms and I gave her some areca nut.
Perhaps I gave her too much, as she is now par
alysed; that is, she is unable to walk and cannot
stand up on all four feet at the same time. She
eats well and has been in good spirits during the
last few days. Can she be cured, and if so, what
treatment is advisable? D. R. J.

216 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

Ans. — If the puppy is suffering from the effects
of areca nut, she will no doubt be either entirely
well or dead by the time you receive this answer.
Never give areca nut to a young puppy. Try
Fowler's solution if still alive.

CURES FOB TAPEWORM

I have a young English setter bitch a little over
two years old and until reading your book, "Aire
dale, Setter and Hound," I had been treating her
for worms, using a patent worm expeller, but in
stead of getting better she has steadily been grow
ing worse. Not knowing the difference, I thought
it was just ordinary worms, but after reading
your book and examining her feces I find that it
is tapeworm ; every time she will pass at least six
or more of those flat, white, lively objects that you
so clearly describe. Otherwise my bitch is all
right, only her appetite is not very good and she
keeps rather poor. Since reading your book I
have tried both the turpentine and the pumpkin
seed but without seeming effect; I have now de
cided to try the areca nut also, but would like to
have a little more detailed information about how
to go about it before undertaking the cure. I would

DOG DISEASES 217

dislike very much to lose her as she gives every
promise of becoming a great hunter.

0. S. ELLEVOLD.

Ans. — Regarding the case of tapeworm with
your setter bitch, I would say that I think you are
up against either the areca nut or extract of oil
of male fern treatments. These are both powerful
poisons and would kill the dog as well as the tape
worm unless gotten out of the dog's system
promptly. ,

The areca nut dose is one grain to the pound
weight of the dog, following within two hours with
a tablespoonful of castor oil. This should do the
business. If not, about a month later, follow with
the fern oil treatment, which is 16 drops for a
medium sized breed of dog like your setter bitch.
Follow in two hours with a generous cathartic in
both treatments. In both cases, the dog must be
fasted twenty-four hours before administering the
medicine.

N. B. — Mr. Ellevold gave his dog 45 grains of
areca nut powder mixed with flour and butter and
followed with a tablespoonful of castor oil in two
hours. Six hours later the dog passed five yards
of tapeworms.

218 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

GASTRIC DISTEMPER

I have an English setter pup five months old,
and for the past two weeks he has been on the sick
list. It started out in a lameness in his hind legs
and fever. Thought it was rheumatism myself,
but our veterinarian says that pups don't get it.

The last few days he has been almost paralysed
in his hind quarters, and on his belly there are
sores that are full of matter. Am at a loss to
know how to treat him. I treated him for distem
per, as I noticed a slight discharge from his eyes,
but not his nose. I used Elkay's Distemper Rem
edy, and gave him a pill every two hours for a
couple of days. The pills are composed of 1 grain
of acetphenetidin, a derivative of acetanilid.

Do you suppose that this treatment would cause
the paralysis in his hind parts and sore spots un
der his belly!

He is a kennel-raised dog and his sleeping quar
ters were slightly damp during some severe storms
that we have had out here. Would that have any
thing to do with his condition!

Have also treated him for worms, and he seems
to be rid of them. Have kept his bowels open with
laxatives. He does not seem to be very sick now,

DOG DISEASES 219

but he doesn't move around much on account of
the lameness, I suppose.

Have had several good dog men look at him,
but they can't seem to agree as to what ails him.
Some say he is poisoned, others say distemper,

while others say worms.

THOS. IEGENS.

Ans. — Your dog surely has one of the forms of
distemper. Get him indoors in a warm, dry place
with good comfortable sleeping quarters. Discon
tinue the distemper remedy, as it will not reach
the form he has. Inject 2 c.c. of distemper
antitoxin in each hind leg. Keep down fever
with sweet spirits of nitre, 10 drops in half cup
ful of water, one teaspoonful every time his fever
rises. Feed up well on meat broth and stale bread,
with a tablespoonful of cod liver oil once a day.
Dog will pull through if constitution is sound.
Otherwise, especially as you have begun treatment
very late, you may lose him in about ten days
more.

BEST DISTEMPER PREVENTIVE

I am taking the liberty of asking you to inform
me where I can obtain information on a positive
and best way to cure distemper of dogs. I have
a very fine setter pup of the Gladstone and White-

220 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

stone stock, and she is going to be a very fine
hunter.

I am particularly afraid of distemper on ac
count of a little interbreeding, although my pup
is in excellent condition and strong. But when
that disease grips them, all is up.

A. C. STEVENS.

Ans. — The best preventive that we know for
distemper will be to send to the Pasteur Labora
tories, 366 W. llth St., N. Y. C., for a tube of
fresh anti-distemper serum and a hypodermic
needle.

Two cubic centimetres of this serum are inject
ed into each hind leg of your pup between the
thighs, and will immunise him from two to four
months.

The period when distemper seems to be rife in
the South is January, February and March, and
we should certainly advise immunising him some
time in December.

DISINFECTING FOR DISTEMPER

Please advise best disinfectant for use in dog
house and lot where dog had distemper.
How soon will it be safe to put another dog in

the pen!

G. A. HEMBBEB.

DOG DISEASES 221

Ans. — For disinfecting the kennel where your
dog has distemper, I would begin with a thorough
hosing down with water. After the sun has dried
this, follow with a spraying of listerine over the
walls, floor and runway yard. The best way to
get this sprayed is to buy a fifty-cent galvanised-
iron tree sprayer which holds about a pint of the
solution, and same can be sprayed out in the form
of a fine mist, which settles evenly all over the
surface sprayed. Follow this in about a week with
a second spraying of creosol, a teaspoonful to the
quart of water. Let in plenty of light; no germ
can stand the direct rays of the sun. In dark,
damp places the distemper germ can live about
two years.

GASTRIC DISTEMPER?

I have a pup about seven months old which hat
been sick for four and five weeks and gradually
gets weaker. I first thought it was distemper,
but treated her for same which did no good. Also
treated her for worms which did no good. She
has been eating fairly well for a sick dog. For
two or three hours after she is fed sometimes she
will howl as if in pain and will scratch at her neck
and shoulder occasionally. Have been feeding her
on raw eggs for past week, but don't think she is

222 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

getting any better; if any change, is growing
worse.

Any information regarding this case will be
appreciated.

I have another puppy by " Cords Count Glad
stone " out of "Cincinnatus Mollie." What do

you think of his breeding?

0. B. TAYLOB.

Ans. — We are rather puzzled in making a diag
nosis of your dog's case. It seems very much
like distemper, but the fact that it has run for
four or five weeks seems to put distemper out of
the game, because this disease is usually over in
fourteen days and the dog is either convalescing
or dead at the end of that time. It is possible that
he may have a light case and be withstanding the
attack of the germ.

I would suggest a hypodermic injection of two
cubic centimetres of either Pasteur's or Moore's
Anti-Distemper Toxine. Shoot this into the inside
of each thigh of the dog.

I lost a dog from distemper with very much the
same symptoms as yours. The dog had the gastri-
cal form of distemper and howled pitifully after
every meal.

Regarding your puppy by " Cords Count Glad-

DOG DISEASES 223

stone " out of "Cincinnatus Mollie," would say
that this is very good Llewellin.

AN AFTERMATH OF DISTEMPER

I have a Llewellin setter dog about four years
old at present who had a hard case of distemper
two years ago and since that time his head
" jumps^ and his jaws continually "pop" and
every week or so seems to have "risings" in his
head and his eyes run. There seems to be no one
who can tell me what to do for him, and, as I love
to have him with me, but it is almost impossible,
as there is such a bad odour about him, I thought
I would write you, having seen some questions an
swered in the Field and Stream. I am enclosing
stamped envelope and would be very glad if you
^ould tell me what is the matter and what to do.

W. H. SCOTT.

Ans. — We would advise you that your dog has
a form of chorea which is an aftermath of distem
per. The best cure for it is Fowler's Solution,
beginning with three drops a day in his food and
increasing three drops each day until forty-five
drops are reached. The dog is then rested a week
and the treatment decreased, beginning at forty-
five drops until back to three again. The treat-

224 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

ment takes about a month and a half and restores
Ms nervous system to normal.

MANGE CUBE

I note inquiries for a cure for mange. To your
thousands of readers, I will say, regardless of
what veterinaries or any one else may suggest,
use the following for a sure cure:

Sulphur 1 oz.

Lard 1 oz.

Oxide of zinc *4 oz.

Before applying in form of a paste, wash all
affected parts with soap and lukewarm water.
Use treatment every other day for five treatments.
Itching will stop almost immediately after the first
application, and the growth of hair will return in
a very short time. This treatment cannot fail.

RALPH L. HUNTER.

CUBE FOR RED MANGE

Please tell me what to do for red mange on a
dog. I think it is red mange. The sores break
out on his neck and run and get sticky. Would
like to know about diet, too. I suppose candy is
not at all the thing to give him.

J. PEETBEY CLAEK.

DOG DISEASES 225

Ans. — Sounds to us like eczema. Beduce his
diet to plain stale bread baked to a golden brown
broken in dog meat broth, and rub him over with
Kenwyn Koat Kure, Boving's Eczema Cure, or
Glover's Mange Cure.

A CUBE FOR MANGE

I note an inquiry for cure for mange. Try
equal parts sulphur, gunpowder (black) and lard.
Use as an ointment. Should be cured in six
weeks. If it is eczema try sumach bobs as a wash.
Put on as hot as can be used, for a few days.

MILES G. EASTWOOD.

MANGE DIP

(1) Give information re Mc's Count Whitestone
(21555) necessary to register puppies by him!
(2) What is good mange dip? (3) What is the
difference in symptoms between mange and ec
zema? (4) What is a good treatment for eczema?

Ans. — (1) As the dog is registered, all that is
necessary in registering a puppy by him in the
F. D. S. B. is to give sire's name and registration
number. (2) Dissolve in an earthen vessel three
pounds of Lewis lye in one quart of boiling water,
add gradually five pounds of sulphur and stir with
a wooden paddle until the sulphur is dissolved.

226 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

Stir this into forty-five gallons of water, after
which add eight ounces of pure sulphuric acid and
stir. Immerse the dog for about one minute, us
ing care to keep the mixture out of the eyes and
ears. (3) There is practically no difference in
the symptoms, you always have eczema when the
dog has mange. Outside of a few cases of ec
zema, in which there would be no itching, very lit
tle redness and no pustules, could you be sure that
it was not mange without a microscopical exami
nation. (4) The treatment depends upon the
cause. Exercise moderately, keep the bowels open
and feed a well-balanced diet. The use of resorcin,
salicylic acid, sulphur or zinc oxide ointments or
vaccine may benefit.

ECZEMA CURE

I have an eleven months ' old setter pup who for
the past month has been scratching himself most
of the time. I examined him thoroughly, and find
evidence of rash on his stomach, also two spots
which look like pimples, on his back. I judge he
has a touch of eczema, I have started to give him
a teaspoonful of sulphur on his food at each meal,
and will wash him twice a week with Epsom salts
in water, which remedy I saw in Field and Stream.

Please tell me if this treatment is right, or your

DOG DISEASES 227

suggestions. His hair is beginning to come out,
though I am inclined to believe that this is his
puppy coat coming out with the warm weather.

JOHN F. CAED.

Ans. — That pup of yours surely has got eczema,
and it has progressed so far that your Epsom
salts are too mild. Send for a bottle of Kenwyn,
Glover's or Boving's coat cure and dope him all
over with it. These are the best I know, and I
have tried a lot of remedies, for Airedales are
very subject to eczema.

You must change his diet right off. At his age
he needs three meals a day. Breakfast, a little
oatmeal, a broken-up dog biscuit, some table
scraps, and meat broth from his meat kettle
poured over the whole works. Lunch, table
scraps, pieces of stale bread baked to a golden
brown in the oven, and meat broth poured over
the whole of it. Supper, table scraps, a dog bis
cuit broken up, a chunk of dog meat from the ket
tle, and some pieces of stale bread baked. A diet
like that will drive away the eczema quick, aided
by the coat cure. He should not lose his puppy
coat of hair — none of my setters do — it is one of
the effects of eczema.

228 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

CURING SOFT SORES

I have a valuable beagle that has sores coming
on her that I can't cure. They come as little blis
ters and break and then form a scab, and when
it's dry I can pull the hair out, too, and it heals
up then and breaks out again somewhere else. It
started on her ears first, and it's about well, and
it's coming all over the under part of her neck and
on the body and under armpits. She scratches
and makes it spread more. I don't think it's can
ker, for it don't eat, but it's a soft sore; otherwise
she is fine. I used muriate of iron and Glover's
mange cure, but she can't stand it. She nearly
goes crazy when I rub it on. I would be glad to
have you tell me just what it is and how to treat
it. I only feed her table scraps. I wash her
twice a week and use Creolin Pearson afterward,
and disinfect her kennel and runway wherever she
touches twice a week, but it seems to get no bet
ter. The reason I don't believe it's canker is be
cause it don't crack her ears open and I have

squeezed open the blisters.

H. G. STAHL.

Ans. — Your beagle has eczema. You must
change her diet, as it comes first of all from food
that does not agree with her. Cut out table

DOG DISEASES 229

scraps, oatmeal, and corn bread for the present
and feed her stale bread baked to a golden brown
in the oven, plus broken-up dog biscuit (old grist
mill), with a dog meat broth poured over it. Get
her a pound of 12-cent shank meat twice a week
and boil in a kettle. Pour the broth over the
bread and biscuit and feed her a little of the meat
at the night feeding. Wash her sores with strong
solution of Epsom salts and send for a bottle of
Boving's Eczema Cure. It often works in ob
stinate cases of eczema that yield to no other
treatment. Get a box of sulphur and cream of
tartar tablets at the drug store and break one up
and mix with the food of her night meal.

ECZEMA CURES

I have an Irish terrier and, although the dog
seems in good health, she is constantly troubled
with eczema, more so, of course, in the summer.

A. L. FABLEY.

The eczema cure gotten out by Mr. F. C. Bov-
ing, Hot Springs, Arkansas, is effective.

However, to eradicate eczema you must begin
first of all with the diet of the dog. Both Irish
and Airedale terriers are very subject to it if they
get much oatmeal, corn bread, potatoes and such

230 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

starchy heating foods in their diet. I find that
the terrier does best on stale bread baked to a
golden brown in the oven with dog meat broth
poured over same — one or two dog biscuits can be
broken in — and very little table scraps. This
seems to bring the coat prime and with one ap
plication of the coat cure the eczema disappears.

ECZEMA

Being a reader of your magazine, and noting
your generous offer to answer questions, I am
going to ask you some.

I bought a two-year-old hound from a kennel
about a month ago, and he has very little ambition.
He will not work unless the trail is very hot, and
then does not run right, but gives up too quick.
I've been giving him worm medicine and found
out he had them.

This is what I cannot understand; he will stop
and scratch for five minutes at a time. I know
he has no fleas or lice.

He eats well and would eat all day if he got it,
but I feed him right, I think.

He was very poor when I got him, but is pick
ing up some now, but he just wants to lie in his

kennel.

WM. E. KEEPPS.

DOG DISEASES 231

Ans. — Your dog has come down with eczema. If
he is scratching behind the ears and under the
armpits it has extended along far enough to give
him a dose of eczema remedy and a change in his
diet.

Cut out all starchy and indigestible foods and
give no fat with his meat. Five cents' worth of
dog meat, twice a week, boiled in a kettle, and
feed him at present twice a day. A breakfast
meal of stale bread baked a golden brown in the
oven, one dog biscuit, and dog meat broth poured
over it. For supper, table scraps, piece of meat
from dog kettle about the size of a tablespoon, a
bone, one dog biscuit, and broth from kettle
poured over the same.

For his coat, rub over with Boving's Eczema
Eemedy, or Glover's Mange Cure.

SETTER SHEDS HAIR

I have a 16-month-old setter and lately he has
started to shed hair so much that in some spots he
has hardly any left. He scratches and bites him
self and keeps rubbing his paws over his eyes and
nose. I have been unable to find any fleas on him,
although he has small sores which bleed when he
scratches them too much. He also has very lit
tle ambition for a young dog and gets tired eas-

232 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

ily. Also his smell seems to be affected, as when
I had him out last week he went right by two quail
without smelling them. I give him a bath twice
a week but at that a bad odour arises from him
and also from the cloth he lies on.

Also when he points out a covey and they are
shot at he does not keep point but starts to run
around where the birds have been, searching for
any that may have been shot. Is this the right
thing for him to do or is he supposed to stand
still? I have a lot to learn about how to train
dogs and would like your advice.

ADOLPH CESAB.

Ans. — Your dog undoubtedly has a bad case of
eczema and you must, first of all, change his diet.
You are feeding him too much corn bread, oat
meal, potatoes and other non-nutritious foods that
are very hard for a dog to digest. Don't give
him any of them for at least a month. Feed him
exclusively on stale bread baked to a golden brown
in the oven, over which is poured rich dog meat
broth from the dog meat kettle which you must
keep handy. At least twice a week buy him five
cents' worth of good dog meat shank-cut with
bones. Boil these in the kettle, also adding any
bones and meaty table scraps. He requires three

DOG DISEASES 233

meals a day, the breakfast meal being a dog bis
cuit, bread and meat broth; the second meal, one
dog biscuit at 12 o'clock, fed dry; the third meal
at night — dog biscuit broken up, stale bread, a
few table scraps, a good helping of meat from the
kettle, a couple of bones and broth poured over
all.

Now to treat his coat. Eub him all over with
either of these three remedies — Glover's Mange
Cure, Boving's Eczema Cure or the Kenwyn Koat
Kure.

You will find that his ambition will return after
the eczema is cured, but it will take at least two
weeks to heal the sores, and a month or so before
the hair begins to come back.

RUPTURE AND WORMS

(1) Pointer bitch, ten weeks old, has a navel
rupture the size of a hazelnut. What is the cause
of same and the best method of treatment? (2)
This puppy was supposed to have been treated
for worms about four weeks ago. I have had her
for about two weeks and have fed her dog bis
cuit, meat, cereal and milk. A few days ago she
passed a large number of worms. Should I treat
her for worms or keep on feeding as I have been!
(3) Do you think the dog biscuits were the cause

284 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

of the puppy passing the worms ? (4) Please ad
vise how to use the vaccine treatment for distem
per, and where same can be procured. (5) If
this puppy has had one treatment, could it be
the cause of her eyes mattering? (6) What
should I do for her eyes? (7) Would fleas on a
puppy make its eyes sore and mattery?

Ans. — (1) The cause of navel rupture is the fail
ure of nature to cause a union between the ab
dominal muscles. Would advise having a veteri
narian suture the abdominal muscles together
after having scarified the edges. (2) Treat for
worms and continue the diet as long as it is a well-
balanced ration. About two-thirds well-cooked
meat, the remainder cereals and vegetables, with
enough liquid to make it a semi-solid, is quite a
suitable diet. (3) Not necessarily. (4) Your vet
erinarian or druggist can procure one for you, and
it should be used according to the directions on
the package. (5) Possibly. (6) Place one drop
of a fifteen per cent solution of argyrol in the
eyes four times a day. (7) Not if the puppy does
not scratch around the eyes, injuring them, in an
effort to allay the irritation produced by the fleas.

DOG DISEASES 235

RUPTURE OF THE ABDOMEN

I would like to have your advice on a pointer
pup seven weeks old that has a swelling and bag
under it right where the navel is. It is as big as
the end of your thumb and looks as if it might be
full of water. I can press it back easily but it
comes right down again. Is there anything I can
do to put it up or could it be opened? It doesn't
seem to hurt the pup and all the litter were the

same way.

J. BBADLY.

Ans. — These pups all have umbilical hernia, and
you are in for an operation. I think you should
have a veterinary do it.

The trouble will not cure itself, and requires
the intestinal protrusion pushed back and the hole
in the abdomen and skin stitched with catgut.
Usually two stitches are sufficient.

Pups must be fed only bread and milk for a
day and fasted for half a day before, with the
bowels cleaned out with sweet oil. They are then
ready for the operation.

The part should be sprayed with chloroform or
sulphuric ether to deaden the pain, after which
the sack can be opened, the parts protruding
pushed back, the ring through which they come

236 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

sewed up with, two stitches, using catgut. After
that the skin can be sewed up with silk. An open
ing should be left for draining, and iodof orm or
other antiseptic used to keep the wound free from
germs.

Keep the pups in a warm place with fresh bed
ding. It takes about five minutes for the opera
tion, and three weeks for recovery. It can best
be done by a competent surgeon or veterinarian.

AIREDALE HUNTING STOCKS

Before buying an Airedale I would like to know
of the leading Airedales of the country, and the
names of the best dogs, both hunters and show
stock, and wish that you would refer me to the
proper authorities. Yours sincerely,

WHITNEY P. HOWES.

Ans. — The best-known Airedale hunting stocks
are the Oorang, Culbertson, Kenwyn, Colne, Lou-
don Swiveller, etc. The English York Kennels
usually show up on most Airedale pedigrees
about three or four generations back, and Master
Briar or his get somewhere in the fourth genera
tion back.

DOG DISEASES 237

CURVED TAIL IN A SETTER

I have a setter pup, thoroughbred, seven weeks
old, and have been advised to have the end of its
tail cut off so that it will hold straight when the
dog is pointing.

Kindly advise if there is any truth in this, also
when tail should be cut, and if it should be done

b?avet A EEADEB.

Ans. — Upcurving tail in a setter is a sign of
poor breeding. We never heard of docking the
tail to cure it. If your dog is of good blood his
tail will stand straight, either somewhat pointing
up at a slant or straight out in line with backbone
when he points.

REGISTERING SETTERS

I have a pair of English setters, a male and fe
male, and they are good hunters. Now and then
people will ask if they have a pedigree, which
they have not. And I would like to get them reg
istered, and get a pedigree if possible, but don't

know how to go about it.

Louis SOKHEIM.

Ans. — To have your dogs registered, you must
either have the pedigree of dam and sire for three

238 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

generations back, or else if you know the names
of both dam and sire, send them in to the Field
Dog Stud Book, in care of the American Field,
Chicago, and they will advise you if these are reg
istered pups.

If dam and sire have already been registered, it
is easy to get a registration certificate for the
pups, the fee for the same being $1.

IRISH SETTER REGISTRY

My dog, Pat IV, A. K. C. 190066, is a mahog
any red, and no white except a small white star
on breast; he is extra large and has beautiful
shape. My bitch has white toes and white breast,
and in each litter of pups there has been one white
and red spotted one, more white than red; looks
more like an English setter, and they are the larg
est of the litter and seem more birdie than the
others and are beautiful dogs. Where does the
white in the Irish setter come from? Some peo
ple think an Irish setter can't have any white on
them and be thoroughbred. M R CoLLINS.

Ans. — A white spot on breast is always allow
able on the coat of an Irish setter. The white
colour there probably comes from an English set
ter cross in the pedigree of your dam. — The West-

DOG DISEASES 239

minster Show (N. Y.) has a class for Irish set
ters.

TO REGISTER AIREDALES

Will you kindly give me the address of the par
ties whom I should write to in regard to regis
tering an Airedale dog?

L. SLAMAN.

Ans. — American Kennel Club, 1 Liberty Street,
New York City. The registration fee is $1.00,
and pedigree for three generations back is re
quired.

REGISTERING POINTERS

I have been referred to you for information re
garding the registration of a pointer bird-dog.

Four weeks ago I got a female pointer pup six
weeks old. The dam is registered, but the sire is
not, although his owner has the pedigree of the
litter, made out at the time he was sold. He was
whelped May 26, 1906.

I would like to know if it is too late to register
him.

I have known and hunted this dog for the past
five seasons and would have him registered, if
possible, in order to register my pup.

Since coming to Oklahoma I have owned sev«

240 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

eral pointers, but as long as they were good
shooting dogs their pedigree didn't interest me.

The dog's owner gave me the litter pedigree
yesterday. He has owned the dog since the dog
was a puppy, so there is no doubt of his identity.

L. H. JOHNSON.

Ans. — Not too late to register sire of your pup.
Three generations on both sides required. Reg
istry number of dam is sufficient. Would sug
gest entering puppy in Field Dog Stud Book.

TO REGISTER YOUR DOG

To whom do I write to have a dog registered
and what is the fee? B. E. MOBITZ.

Ans. — Sporting field dogs are registered with
the Field Dog Stud Book, care of American Field,
Masonic Temple, Chicago. Other dogs with the
American Kennels, 1 Liberty Street, New York
City, fee $1.00.

REGISTERING BIRD-DOGS

I have two English setters, supposedly very
well bred, and the former owners although not
kennel men, claim they are eligible for registra
tion. I have the pedigrees of both, but not a reg
istration number appears on either of them.

DOG DISEASES 241

I would be pleased to have you advise me if it
will be possible to have these dogs registered, and
if so, who to take the matter up with.

0. B. MAETIN.

Ans. — Send the pedigrees with $1.00 fee for
each dog to the Field Dog Stud Book, care Amer
ican Field, Monadnock Block, Chicago, 111.

They will send you registry certificates with
number if the pedigrees show the dogs are eli
gible for registry.

BREEDING DOGS

Hunting is my hobby, and I want to breed my
own hunting dogs in the future. In establishing a
small kennel of my own I can afford to be very
exclusive on account of its size, and can therefore
use only the very best blood lines obtainable.
Will you kindly answer the following inquiries for
me?

1. Where is Ch. Mohawk at stud?

2. Do you know any more celebrated or better
English setter sire?

3. What special strain of English setter bitch
would you send to a Mohawk II dog in order to
produce a pup classy enough to use as a sire in

the future in my own kennel?

D. S. McEusoY.

242 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

Ans. — 1. Ch. Mohawk is dead, but the Babble-
brook Kennels offer four famous sons of his who
have been recent field trial winners — Babblebrook
Joe, etc.

2. Mohawk II was a fine dog, but there are also
good representatives of the Gladstones, White-
stones, Eugene M., etc., who must not be over
looked.

3. I would send a Whitestone or Gladstone
bitch to the Mohawk sire.

LINE BREEDING

(1) Would it be too close to breed a bitch to a
dog, the dog's dam being a full sister to the sire
of the bitch? (2) What is meant by line breeding
and outcrossing? (3) Is the beagle Gusty, the
dam of Florienne, registered; if so, give number!

Ans. — (1) Not in a single instance or where the
mating is made with some definite purpose that
is to strengthen or perpetuate certain traits. (2)
Line breeding may be defined shortly as the com
bining of the blood of a certain individual with
out the direct use of that individual. Thus, the
mating of cousins would be line breeding. The
closest cross of line breeding occurs with the mat
ing of half-brother and half-sister. Most breed-

DOG DISEASES 243

ers confuse the terms inbreeding and line breed
ing. In fact, there are really only three types of
inbreeding, that is, crossing the blood of a single
individual. They are inbreeding a sire to his own
daughter, a dam to her own son or full brother
and sister together. Where similar blood lines are
used in combination different from the above,
they might be termed, as a rule, line breeding.
An outcross is obtained when a deviation is made
to a dog or bitch possessing blood lines entirely
dissimilar from those appearing previous thereto.
(3) Not registered.

POOR DIET — POOR CONDITION

I have an Airedale about ten months old that
is having trouble with small warts coming out all
over the roof of his mouth and on his lips.

The dog does not seem to be as lively as he did
a month ago and wants to be in the house most of
the time (although he sleeps out nights), lying
down instead of running around out of doors as
previously. He does not eat much and spends a
great deal of his time scratching his neck and bit
ing himself all over, although he does not seem to
scratch his ears ; it all seems to be on his neck or
body ; also rubs his head along on the ground some
when outdoors, rubs his front paws over his eyes

244 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

quite a bit, which makes the lower part of his eyes
look red and inflamed. His ears look clean and
no discharge and I don't find any sign of any skin
trouble on outside. He is washed every week or
two with antiseptic soap, so don't believe he has
any fleas.

He had a wart on tongue about six weeks ago
(the only one he had then) and I had it removed ;
since then the small warts have appeared and he

acts as stated previously.

H. M. BULL.

Ans. — We advise change of diet. No bones for
at least two months; no oatmeal, no corn bread.
Feed him stale bread baked to a golden brown
and broken up in his bowl with rich meat broth
poured over it, twice a day. Get a pound of soup
meat once a week, twelve cents a pound, and cut
up to make a nice broth. Boil a long while. Feed
him a little of this meat once a day and pour broth
on bread. Give him one Old Grist Mill dog bis
cuit once every two days and a tablespoonful of
cod liver oil on his food at every meal twice a
week.

OBSTRUCTION IN INTESTINES

During the hot spell of this summer my Gordon
setter suffered several severe convulsions from

DOG DISEASES 245

some cause which I could not discover. After
this trouble he refused to eat anything at all for
two weeks. His appetite has now returned, but
he fails to get enough nourishment from his food
and is getting thinner all the time. Bowels are
extremely loose and stools formless and clay-col
oured. I have been feeding small amounts of
well-cooked meat, dog biscuits, etc.

PAUL N. PEASS.

Ans.s — From your letter it seems to us that the
dog needs a thorough clearing out with castor oil.

There is evidently some irritating material in
his bowels which must be dislodged, as at pres
ent it sets up an irritation akin to dysentery in
human beings. Try clearing him out with castor
oil — about a tablespoonful at a dose, and feed him
a bland diet of meat broth and stale bread baked
to a golden brown in the oven. Give him no table
scraps or vegetable foods at present.

FOB LOSS OF APPETITE

About six weeks ago I bought an Irish setter
pup; as near as I could judge about ten months
old. He was very poor and I attributed that to
lack of food. But after he had slowly taken on
a very little flesh he suddenly, about two weeks

246 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

ago, began to get poorer again. Now lie has lost
all ambition and when I take him out hunting he
will only show interest when he strikes a very
warm trail. He lies about most of the time, show
ing little interest in anything. He hasn't much
of an appetite. He seems run down generally,
with a loss of vitality. We have fed him two or
three eggs cooked with a piece of bacon, and white
bread a day. Also he has a pail of cows' milk
near him. He doesn't seem to like raw meat. He
has grown very fast, as he is a very large dog. I
was told that this might affect him.

If you could give me any suggestions I would
be thankful. I don't know whether you can draw
any conclusions from my explanation, but I
thought, from your large experience, you might
understand the case. DANIEL GooDMAN.

Ans. — Either the dog's diet is wrong or he has
worms. Try feeding him exclusively on stale
bread baked to a golden brown with dog-meat
broth poured over it, broken up dog biscuit and
a tablespoonful of cod liver oil on the mess. Feed
four times a day a big bowl full. Also treat for
round worms with a teaspoonful of syrup of
buckthorn once a week and watch his passages for
dead worms. Also if he has a tape-worm you will

DOG DISEASES 247

note squirming white fragments in his f eces and,
if so, give him five cents' worth of pumpkin seed
mashed and boiled for an hour and then mix in
his food.

FOOD FOB BITCHES IN WHELP

I have a bitch in whelp and wish to inquire from
your kennel department the best food ration for
her while carrying and after the pups arrive.

She is on a farm where she can have plenty of
skim milk, mush, etc., rather difficult to procure
meat scraps and there is very little meat from
the table scraps. I have never believed that any
of the prepared dog foods were any good for this

kind of a job.

E. A. RENWIOK.

Ans. — Regarding food for your bitch in whelp,
I would say that you will have to feed her up with
a good deal more meat than she is getting now.

She needs plenty of strong, nourishing food. I
would advise as a diet during this time five cents'
worth of shank or dog meat from the butcher,
twice a week, the same to be boiled in a kettle
kept specially for her use, the broth from this
meat to be poured over a mixture of table scraps
and stale bread baked to a golden brown in the
oven; also two feedings a day consisting of a

248 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

chunk of meat about the size of a tablespoon, and
a bone for her to gnaw on. You can give the
skimmed milk for a mid-day feed, with perhaps
a dog biscuit broken up into it, about a pint of
milk to the feeding. I would not do very much
with corn-mush at this time if I were you.

CHRONIC INDIGESTION

I have a good rabbit dog which is in excellent
health, has a good appetite and drinks plenty of
water, but he is continually opening and shutting
his mouth.

I was told that he had the thumps caused by
over heating.

If possible from my explanation please tell what
is the trouble and what will cure it.

W. P. EECE.

Ans. — You do not say how old your rabbit dog
is, but if a puppy, it is quite likely afflicted with
worms, in which case give a teaspoonful of syrup
of buckthorn until cured.

The symptoms seem to be of indigestion. Do
not feed him too much corn bread or potatoes.

HOWLS IN HIS SLEEP

We have a red cocker who seems to have the
nightmare.

DOG DISEASES 249

Occasionally during sleep he begins to breathe
heavily, then starts moderate growling which
quickly develops into furious yelling. He is nine
years old, very active, always has been voracious,
seems well and in good general form. We sus
pect worms or possibly overfeeding or both.

If you can suggest something to help this little
chap, and incidentally everybody else within a
mile, we will be very appreciative.

C. H. WRIGHT

Ans. — Eegarding the red cocker who is afflicted
with the nightmare, in our opinion the dog has
some obstruction in the intestines.

If you will try a good clearing out with castor
oil, followed with a good diet of meat broth and
stale bread, kept up for a week, I think that un
der this treatment he ought to show signs of im
provement, because the carrying on at night is
undoubtedly either indigestion or bone splinters
in the intestines. Clear out worms if not relieved.

FEEDING YOUR BEAGLE

I have a beagle pup about seven months old.
He is perfectly healthy except for some itching
trouble. He scratches and bites himself a great
deal and the hair on his under side is either com-

250 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

ing out or being scratched out. There are no
sores on him and he has no fleas. If you could
tell me what to do it would oblige me greatly.

BOBBKT I. WOODBUBY.

Ans. — Your beagle undoubtedly has eczema and
your first move will be to change his diet. Cut
out all starchy foods, such as potato scraps, corn-
bread and oatmeal, and feed him for some time
to come on a diet of stale bread baked to a golden
brown in the oven, with broth from the dog meat
kettle poured over it and a little meat (about a
tablespoonful) added. For a dog of this size you
will need five cents' worth of good shank-bone
meat twice a week. Boil this in a kettle which
you will keep for the dog and use the broth from
this on his bowl of food. To this diet may be
added greens from the table and one dog biscuit
a day. Save all stale bread and keep same in a
crock and bake brown as needed.

Now as to his coat — rub him all over with any
one of the standard eczema cures or mange cures.
Boving's, Glover's and the Kenwyn Koat Kure
are all good, and a good home-made dope would
be flowers of sulphur in crude oil.

DOG DISEASES 251

CONCRETE UNDERGROUND DOG KENNEL

Underground dog kennels constructed entirely
of concrete are in use now in Colorado. The cli
mate in this state is extremely warm and very cold
in season. Consequently the greyhounds kept for
hunting coyotes suffer greatly from the heat if
not properly housed. One of the largest kennels
in the state is on the Eocky Ford cantaloupe farm,
and it was here that the first underground kennel
was built.

The kennels are built into the ground some
what like caves or dugouts. From the surface an
incline leads to the floor of the kennel, which is
about six feet square and built to accommodate
four dogs. The incline is so constructed that rain
and water cannot reach the floor. A semi-cir
cular drain connects to a sewer pipe and carries
away all rain and water. The roof of the kennel
is below the surface of the ground and ventilators
placed so as to keep out moisture and let in fresh
air for the dogs. C^Q^ E WlLUAMS.

BLUE AND ORANGE BELTON MARKINGS

In regard to English Setters and Blue Beltons
I was told by one man that they were the same
breed and another man says they are different

252 THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

breeds ; another man spoke about an Orange Bel-
ton and I tried to find a book which told of dif
ferent breeds, but could not. I only found three
breeds of setters, English, Gordon and Irish.

W. S. PALMEB.

Ans. — The terms "Blue Belton" and "Orange
Belton" refer to the markings of English Setters.
When a dog is so bred that he is flecked all over
with blue or orange ticks, many of which are so
large as to become streaks and so indeterminable
as to mingle with the white body colour of the
dog, it gives the effect of blue or orange and has
been named "Blue Belton" and "Orange Belton"
respectively. Both the Llewellin and the Laver-
ack branches of the English Setters are so marked
in certain strains.

(2)

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THE COMPLETE DOG BOOK

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YOUR DOG AND YOUR CAT— How to Care for
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THE AMERICAN HUNTING DOG

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BIRD DOG DAYS

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BREAKING A BIRD DOG— A Treatise on Training

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