Cun Sy i emt Eg. Res. Ch Teck. Rep. Cec ARI CERL —Ft- a : TECHNICAL REPORT CERC-91-9 US Army Corps ANNUAL DATA SUMMARY FOR 1989 of Engineers CERC FIELD RESEARCH FACILITY Volume | MAIN TEXT AND APPENDIXES A AND B by Michael W. Leffler, Clifford F. Baron, Brian L. Scarborough Kent K. Hathaway, Ralph T. Hayes Coastal Engineering Research Center DEPARTMENT OF THE ARMY Waterways Experiment Station, Corps of Engineers 3909 Halls Ferry Road, Vicksburg, Mississippi 39180-6199 August 1991 Final Report Approved For Public Release; Distribution Unlimited Prepared for DEPARTMENT OF THE ARMY US Army Corps of Engineers Washington, DC 20314-1000 Under FRF Analysis Work Unit 32525 Destroy this report when no longer needed. Do not return it to the originator. The findings in this report are not to be construed as an official Department of the Army position unless so designated by other authorized documents. The contents of this report are not to be used for advertising, publication, or promotional purposes. Citation of trade names does not constitute an official endorsement or approval of the use of such commercial products. MINI 0 0301 0091291 1 Wn A Form Approved REPORT DOCUMENTATION PAGE Public reporting burden for this collection of information is estimated to average 1 hour per response, including the time for reviewing instructions, searching existing data sources, gathering and maintaining the data needed, and completing and reviewing the collection of information. Send comments regaraing this burden estimate or any other aspect of this collection of information, including suggestions for reducing this burden. to Washington Headquarters Services, Directorate for Information Operations and Reports, 1215 Jefferson Davis Highway, Suite 1204, Arlington, VA 22202-4302, and to the Office of Management and Budget, Paperwork Reduction Project (0704-0188), Washington, DC 20503. 1. AGENCY USE ONLY (Leave blank) 2. REPORT DATE ; 3. REPORT TYPE AND DATES COVERED |__August 1991 Final report in 2 volumes 4. TITLE AND SUBTITLE 5. FUNDING NUMBERS Annual Data Summary for 1989, CERC Field Research Facility; Volume I; Main Text and Appendixes A and B; Volume II: WU 32525 Michael W. Leffler, Clifford F. Baron, Brian L. Scarborough, Kent K. Hathaway, Ralph T. Hayes 7. PERFORMING ORGANIZATION NAME(S) AND ADDRESS(ES) 8. PERFORMING ORGANIZATION REPORT NUMBER USAE Waterways Experiment Station, Technical Report Coastal Engineering Research Center CERC-91-9 3909 Halls Ferry Road, Vicksburg, MS 39180-6199 9. SPONSORING/ MONITORING AGENCY NAME(S) AND ADDRESS(ES) 10. SPONSORING / MONITORING AGENCY REPORT NUMBER US Army Corps of Engineers Washington, DC 20314-1000 11. SUPPLEMENTARY NOTES A limited number of copies of Volume II (Appendixes C through E) were published under separate cover. Copies of Volume I (this report and Appendixes A and B) are available from National 12a. DISTRIBUTION / AVAILABILITY STATEMENT } 12b. DISTRIBUTION CODE Approved for public release; distribution unlimited 13. ABSTRACT (Maximum 200 words) This report provides basic data and summaries for the measurements made during 1989 at the US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station (WES) Coastal Engineering Research Center’s (CERC’s) Field Research Facility (FRF) in Duck, NC. The report includes comparisons of the present year’s data with cumulative statistics from 1980 to the present. Summarized in this report are meteorological and oceanographic data, monthly bathymetric survey results, samples of quarterly aerial photography, and descriptions of 17 storms that occurred during the year. The year was highlighted by a severe storm in March that destroyed or damaged over 100 ocean front structures. Waves with 4-m significant height were measured 6 km from shore. This report is eleventh in a series of annual summaries of data collected at the FRF that began with Miscellaneous Report CERC-82-16, which summarizes data collected during 1977-1979. These reports are available from the WES Technical Report Distribution Section of the Information Technology Laboratory, Vicksburg, MS. 14. SUBJECT TERMS 15. NUMBER OF PAGES See reverse 213 (In two volumes) 16. PRICE CODE 17. SECURITY CLASSIFICATION | 18. SECURITY CLASSIFICATION | 19. SECURITY CLASSIFICATION | 20. LIMITATION OF ABSTRACT OF REPORT OF THIS PAGE OF ABSTRACT Unclassified Unclassified _ __Unclassified NSN 7540-01-280-5500 Standard Form 298 (Rev. 2-89) Prescribed by ANSI Std. 239-18 298-102 14. (Concluded). Meteorologic research--statistics (LC) Oceanographic research--statistics (LC) Oceanographic research stations--North Carolina--Duck (LC) Water waves--statistics (LC) PREFACE This report is the eleventh in a series of annual data summaries authorized by Headquarters, US Army Corps of Engineers (HQUSACE), under Civil Works Research Work Unit 32525, Field Research Facility Analysis, Coastal Flooding Program. Funds were provided through the US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station (WES), Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERC), under the program management of Dr. C. Linwood Vincent, CERC. Mr. John H. Lockhart, Jr., was HQUSACE Technical Monitor. The data for the report were collected and analyzed at the WES/CERC Field Research Facility (FRF) in Duck, NC. The report was prepared by Mr. Michael W. Leffler, Computer Programmer Analyst, FRF, under the direct supervision of Mr. William A. Birkemeier, Chief, FRF Group, Engineering Development Division (EDD), and Mr. Thomas W. Richardson, Chief, EDD; and under the general supervision of Dr. James R. Houston and Mr. Charles C. Calhoun, Jr., Chief and Assistant Chief, CERC, respectively. Messrs. Kent K. Hathaway, Oceanographer, FRF, and Ralph T. Hayes, Electronics Technician, FRF, assisted with instrumentation; and Mr. Brian L. Scarborough, Amphibious Vehicle Operator, FRF, assisted with data collection. Messrs. Clifford F. Baron, James E. Martin, and Mark A. McConathy, and Ms. Wendy L. Smith assisted with data analysis at the FRF. The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Ad- ministration/National Ocean Service maintained the tide gage and provided statistics for summarization. Commander and Director of WES during the publication of this report was COL Larry B. Fulton, EN. Dr. Robert W. Whalin was Technical Director. CONTENTS PREFACE PART PART PART PART PART PART PART PART PART Ts INTRODUCTION. Background Organization of Report. Availability of Data. I: METEOROLOGY . Air Temperature Atmospheric Pressure. Precipitation . : Wind Speed and Dae sient HisTeTes WAVES Measurement Instruments Digital Data Analysis and Summar {zation : Results TV CURRENTS . Observations. Results Vi TIDES AND WATER LEVELS. Measurement Istrument Results VI: WATER CHARACTERISTICS Temperature Visibility. Density . Visi: SURVEY. VIII: PHOTOGRAPHY . Aerial Photographs. Beach Photographs IX: STORMS . 4 January 1989. . . 23-24 January 1989. CONTENTS (Continued) 17-19 February 1989 23-25 February 1989 7-11 March 1989 23-24 March 1989. 11 April 1989 4-10 September 1989, iHuerieane Nespeieine! 21-22 September 1989, Hurricane Hugo. 23-24 September 1989. path 27 September 1989 25-26 October 1989. 23 November 1989. 8-10 December 1989. 13 December 1989 22 December 1989 23-25 December 1989 REFERENCES APPENDIX A: SURVEY DATA . APPENDIX B: WAVE DATA FOR GAGE 630. Daily Wits, and, 1, : aie tri Joint Distributions of Hl, and T, Cumulative Distributins of Wave Height. Peak Spectral Wave Period Distributions Persistence of Wave Heights APPENDIX C:* Spectra . Daily’ Hy; and. Tp WAVE DATA FOR GAGE 111 Joint Distributions of He, and T, Cumulative Distributions of Wave Height Peak Spectral Wave Period Distributions Persistence of Wave Heights Spectra . APPENDIX D: WAVE DATA FOR GAGE 625. * Daily vine, pad.) 1. Gi aTouete ma bre ee Joint Distributions of H, and T, : Cumulative Distributions of Wave Height . Peak Spectral Wave Period Distributions Persistence of Wave Heights Spectra . A limited number of copies of Appendixes C-E (Volume II) were published Copies are available from National Technical 5285 Port Royal Road, Springfield, VA 22161. under separate cover. Information Serivce, 3 CONTENTS (Concluded) Page APPEND EX. 6:2 WAVE DATA FOR GAGE 164:5;.0 5 20g) ch eataed, cece el ene RED tah ee El Daily Hos ands Vik a Macs Gogh Ls Cat oe Aime) cote 3h, alk Seg te mesa he ne ee Ret El Joint Distributions of He 2) oe yy a ea RC rer ae ba ceme eRe Ge El Cumulative Distributions of Wave Helight= <1 20% 2998. Se 2, eee, El Peak SpectralnWave Period! Distributions: <8 2) Wo Se ee see eee El Persistence! of Wave: Helphts! i... be ak ah a oe Me oe REMAN Mn can te eas E2 Spectra ie bgt Bree at ah AY be he an cet arlag fe iy ons Ge Ce E2 ANNUAL DATA SUMMARY FOR 1989 CERC FIELD RESEARCH FACILITY PART I: INTRODUCTION Background 1. The US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station (WES), Coastal Engineering Research Center's (CERC’s) Field Research Facility (FRF), located on 0.7 km? at Duck, NC (Figure 1), consists of a 561-m-long research pier and accompanying office and field support buildings. The FRF is located near the middle of Currituck Spit along a 100-km unbroken stretch of shoreline extend- ing south of Rudee Inlet, VA, to Oregon Inlet, NC. The FRF is bordered by the Atlantic Ocean to the east and Currituck Sound to the west. The Facility is designed to (a) provide a rigid platform from which waves, currents, water levels, and bottom elevations can be measured, especially during severe storms; (b) provide CERC with field experience and data to complement labora- tory and analytical studies and numerical models; (c) provide a manned field facility for testing new instrumentation; and (d) serve as a permanent field base of operations for physical and biological studies of the site and adjacent region. 2. The research pier is a reinforced concrete structure supported on 0.9-m-diam steel piles spaced 12.2 m apart along the pier's length and 4.6 m apart across the width. The piles are embedded approximately 20 m below the ocean bottom. The pier deck is 6.1 m wide and extends from behind the dune- line to about the 6-m water depth contour at a height of 7.8 m above the National Geodetic Vertical Datum (NGVD). The pilings are protected against sand abrasion by concrete erosion collars and against corrosion by a cathodic system. 3. An FRF Measurements and Analysis Program has been established to collect basic oceanographic and meteorological data at the site, reduce and analyze these data, and publish the results. 4. This report, which summarizes data for 1989, continues a series of reports begun in 1977. » Jy CHESAPEAKE EON BAY | ue als ee ie SOUND 1 CAPE HATTERAS Figure 1. FRF location map Organization of Report 5. This report is organized into nine parts and five appendixes. Part I is an introduction; Parts II through VIII discuss the various data col- lected during the year; and Part IX describes the storms that occurred. Appendix A presents the bathymetric surveys, Appendix B summarizes deepwater wave statistics, and Appendixes C through E (published under separate cover as Volume II) contain summary statistics for other gages. 6. In each part of this report, the respective instruments used for monitoring the meteorological or oceanographic conditions are briefly described along with data collection and analysis procedures and data results. The instruments were interfaced with the primary data acquisition system, a Digital Equipment Corporation (Maynard, MA) VAX-11/750 minicomputer located in the FRF laboratory building. More detailed explanations of the design and the operation of the instruments may be found in Miller (1980). Readers’ comments on the format and usefulness of the data presented are encouraged. Availability of Data 7. Table 1 summarizes the available data. In addition to the wave data summaries in the main text, more extensive summaries for each of the wave gages are provided in Appendixes B through E. Table 1 1989 Data Availability Gage Jean Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Oct. Nov Dec D 1234512341234123451234123412345123412341234512341234 Weather Anemometer OZ RRR OR ROR ROR OR ER RW RLF LR RS IIe Re JWR Ie He Rete RR I, ee Het fove Atmospheric Pres. C16 Re Ra I eR ER NOR ROKER EKER ROMER AERA KERR KR RER EARLIER ENE RRM eR WR RRR ww HEI ft Air Temperature CZAR EKER Rat (oe RR NNER AERA OR RENIN RR NERO RR AM oe) K/L RR oo fi NANO GK ROK WWW eR Precipitation 0) ee a eo Waves Offshore Waverider G30 * * * *¥ e/a AKA KAKA KKK AHH pee LP KK Lf | peak RKH - f * Pressure Gage TLL We Ref RK RW RR ROW ff RR IH RY RR MR RK KH OR RIK RK KK, [oR IK Pier End 625 —--\------ [ERR MEER IRR IRNIRN RIR RR ERI OR IR RK ENN R Ke te wR Ke fief Pier Nearshore GASH / RoR RRS CK NS [RMR ON RR IN ke WR i ee Rie eR a) RR i WR LW Al im mf Currents Pier End RR I RES RG RII RRR RR RM MONK RR RRR IR RR FARK IRM ROR ROKER WR) Ww KK! If Pier Nearshore PIR ROR IRON ERNE ENE [EKER ERR EE RR RER KER RENE NORA RARER NONE R HRN K EM REA NAW CK EK CRANES KE RAK IY Beach fled TL HT Le A (ORIN fehl hall hated hah hotel Ad la Sad SNA MMI Ni aliy tat bate RC ada atthe Met tds atte | Pier End Tide Gage Ll ltl hal ol RMT Tita att Stilt batalla aaNet alata salted had tl Ll LN Alea [ade Bit Phat y/o ada d Water Characteristics Temperature SR RRR ef Meek NOR eRe ORK RR Re RR RI Re RRR) ee WIR RRR ARH CRN, Visibility ipl dad ATA EE ty LA te tad eat iN et it ite I TLL a hen Mh Lh Pte Mt sa | Density RARER ME RR REN KSEE REN REN RRA e eR ERE MYR Kis RIK SRE RAR ANY HE RAE) RW WR MWR Wap WN ae fei ef Bathymetric Surveys ts Sad - Le i ts i x * te Photography Beach PR WM IO HRW f/f RE KR ROR IR KR RRR ORR OK ROM RR RS fmf We REAR Re) wf, Aerial * * * * * Notes: * Full week of data obtained. / Less than 7 days of data obtained. - No data obtained. 8. The annual data summary herein summarizes daily observations by month and year to provide basic data for analysis by users. Daily measure- ments and observations have already been reported in a series of monthly Preliminary Data Summaries (FRF 1989). If individual data for the present year are needed, the user can obtain detailed information (as well as the monthly and previous annual reports) from the following address: USAE Waterways Experiment Station Coastal Engineering Research Center Field Research Facility 1261 Duck Road Kitty Hawk, NC 27949-9440 Although the data collected at the FRF are designed primarily to support ongoing CERC research, use of the data by others is encouraged. The WES/CERC Coastal Engineering Information and Analysis Center (CEIAC) is responsible for storing and disseminating most of the data collected at the FRF. All data requests should be in writing and addressed to: Commander and Director US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station ATTN: Coastal Engineering Information Analysis Center 3909 Halls Ferry Road Vicksburg, MS 39180-6199 Tidal data other than the summaries in this report can be obtained directly from the following address: National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration National Ocean Service ATTN: Tide Analysis Branch Rockville, MD 20852 A complete explanation of the exact data desired for specific dates and times will expedite filling any request; an explanation of how the data will be used will help CEIAC or the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) /National Ocean Service (NOS) determine if other relevant data are available. For information regarding the availability of data for all years, contact CEIAC at (601) 634-2012. Costs for collecting, copying, and mailing will be borne by the requester. PART II: METEOROLOGY 9. This section summarizes the meteorological measurements made during the current year and in combination with all previous years. Meteorological measurements during storms are given in Part IX. 10. Mean air temperature, atmospheric pressure, and wind speed and direction were computed for each data file, which consisted of data sampled two times per second for 34 min every 6 hr beginning at or about 0100, 0700, 1300, and 1900 eastern standard time (EST); these hours correspond to the time that the National Weather Service (NWS) creates daily synoptic weather maps. During storms, data recordings were made more frequently. The data are summarized in Table 2. Table 2 Meteorological Statistics Mean Mean Wind Resultants Air Temperature Atmospheric Pres. Precipitation, mm 1989 1980-1989 deg C mb 1989 1978-1989 Speed Direction Speed Direction Month 1989 1983-1989 1989 1983-1989 Total Mean Maxima Minima m/sec deg, m/sec deg Jan 8.1 5.4 1019.3 1017.9 59 96 180 44 Papal 316 2.6 337 Feb 7.0 6.1 1019.5 1017.4 113 76 113 20 3.5 352 2.0 350 Mar 10.0 9.3 1017.5 1016.3 206 92 206 35 3.0 16 1.6 at Apr 13.4 13.5 1014.5 1013.4 104 96 182 0) 0.3 53 0.3 324 May 18.5 18.7 1013.2 1016.0 97 67 239 20 NGS) 212 0.5 186 Jun 25.0 23.5 1014.1 1015.4 117 84 130 27 2.8 196 1.2 198 Jul 25.9 26.0 1015.1 1016.4 275 100 275 19 1.4 183 17. 212 Aug, 25.6 25.9 1013.3 1016.3 63 101 221 30 0.9 75 0.5 94 Sep 24.6 22.4 1015.9 1017.8 226 88 226 5 3.7 65 2.0 40 Oct LOT. 17.4 1016.7 1019.6 63 64 143 17 1.8 10 2.4 26 Nov 13.1 13.3 1014.8 1018.3 92 93 145 26 AS) 294 1.8 353 Dec 2.9 7.4 1015.7 1019.5 113 66 131 4 4.1 338 2.3 333 Average 16.0 15.7 1015.8 1017.1 127 85 0.9 356 0.9 357 Total 1528 1023 Air Temperature 11. The FRF enjoys a typical marine climate that moderates the temper- ature extremes of both summer and winter. Measurement instruments 12. A Yellow Springs Instrument Company, Inc. (YSI) (Yellow Springs, OH), electronic temperature probe with analog output interfaced to the FRF’s computer was operated beside the NWS’s meteorological instrument shelter located 43 m behind the dune (Figure 2). To ensure proper temperature 2, “Aerial Photograph a : taken - 12 August 1988 Scale = 1:12,000 Pressure Gage 0.9 km Offshore ¢ ‘Meteorological °° Baylor Gage Instruments a5 No. 645 Baylor Ga Gage 3 6 km “Offshore Figure 2. FRF gage locations 10 readings, the probe was installed 3 m aboveground inside a "coolie hat" to shade it from direct sun, yet provide proper ventilation. Results 13. Daily and average air temperature values are tabulated in Table 2 and shown in Figure 3. Atmospheric Pressure Measurement instruments 14. Electronic atmospheric pressure sensor. Atmospheric pressure was measured with a YSI electronic sensor with analog output located in the laboratory building at 9 m above NGVD. Data were recorded on the FRF com- puter. Data from this gage were compared with those from an NWS aneroid barometer to ensure proper operation. 15. Microbarograph. A Weathertronics, Incorporated (Sacramento, CA), recording aneroid sensor (microbarograph) located in the laboratory building also was used to continuously record atmospheric pressure variation. 16. The microbarograph was compared daily with the NWS aneroid barometer, and adjustments were made as necessary. Maintenance of the microbarograph consisted of inking the pen, changing the chart paper, and winding the clock every 7 days. During the summer, a meteorologist from the NWS checked and verified the operation of the barometer. 17. The microbarograph was read and inspected daily using the following procedure: a. The pen was zeroed (where applicable). b. The chart time was checked and corrected, if necessary. c. Daily reading was marked on the chart for reference. d. The starting and ending chart times were recorded, as necessary. e. New charts were installed when needed. 11 fo) 35 Year Mean, C Pesce x—x 1989 16.0 vise + @-=-01983-89 15.7 30 NS a tS to) 10 Air Temperature, a6 a JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC Month Figure 3. Daily air temperature values with monthly means Results 18. Daily and average atmospheric pressure values are presented in Figure 4, and summary statistics are presented in Table 2. Precipitation 19. Precipitation is generally well distributed throughout the year. Precipitation from midlatitude cyclones (northeasters) predominates in the winter, whereas local convection (thunderstorms) accounts for most of the summer rainfall. Measurement instruments 20. Electronic rain gage. A Belfort Instrument Company (Baltimore, MD) 30-cm weighing rain gage, located near the instrument shelter 47 m behind the dune, measured daily precipitation. According to the manufacturer, the instrument's accuracy was 0.5 percent for precipitation amounts less than 12 1040 Year Mean, mb f %—x 1989 1015.8 : @----6 1983-89 1017.1 1035 : 10304 s- .,. : eaeran : cee Se Saha 1025 Beh ou se : - ‘ Cia Benet PacuNae geen) Whe : tet eis ees 1020 £ ns v fr oe ; : t ° : 8 o% oe a ee % ie ° . 3 £° ° 8 1015-7. oo - *. aie x 2 2) as * a . we 3s Rint acid * Seaton tf: eet we a Bees seins Nelan iethete. 2)i'e oy: J ay 28 (Vie: aR iull ies Bae 5 ® pae estan) sions A 3 site Avra oe 1010 ENON Ly cancun EIR S A JA ty a hisore cue OD . See, 8 weg se. * ork ck ans Ve 48 . . % 4° nied 8 . 3 . Me Wiens ee * é at ult sf 8 Bae 0 0 Atmospheric Pressure, mb JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC Month Figure 4. Daily barometric pressure values with monthly means 15 cm and 1.0 percent for amounts greater than 15 cm. 21. The rain gage was inspected daily, and the analog chart recorder was maintained by procedures similar to those for the microbarograph. 22. Plastic rain gage. An Edwards Manufacturing Company (Alberta Lea, MN) True Check 15-cm-capacity clear plastic rain gage with a 0.025-cm resolu- tion was used to monitor the performance of the weighing rain gage. This gage, located near the weighing gage, was compared daily; and very few dis- crepancies were identified during the year. Results 23. Daily and monthly average precipitation values are shown in Figure 5. Statistics of total precipitation for each month during this year and average totals for all years combined are presented in Table 2. 13 300 Year Total, mm —x 1989 1528 275 @----© 1980-89 1023 250 225 200 175 150 125 Precipitation, mm 100 Ae S26). ahs’ “- oo ve Sli is : JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG Month SEP OCT NOV DEC Figure 5. Daily precipitation values with monthly totals Wind Speed and Direction 24. Winds at the FRF are dominated by tropical maritime air masses that create low to moderate, warm southern breezes; arctic and polar air masses that produce cold winds from northerly directions; and smaller scale cyclonic, low pressure systems, which originate either in the tropics (and move north along the coast) or on land (and move eastward offshore). The dominant wind direction changes with the season, being generally from northern directions in the fall and winter and from southern directions in the spring and summer. It is common for fall and winter storms (northeasters) to produce winds with average speeds in excess of 15 m/sec. Measurement instrument 25. Winds were measured at the seaward end of the pier at an elevation of 19.1 m (Figure 2) using a Weather Measure Corporation (Sacramento, CA) Skyvane Model W102P anemometer. Wind speed and direction data were collected on the FRF computer. The anemometer manufacturer specifies an accuracy of +0.45 m/sec below 13 m/sec and 3 percent at speeds above 13 m/sec, with a 14 threshold of 0.9 m/sec. Wind direction accuracy is +2 deg with a resolution of less than 1 deg. The anemometer is calibrated annually at the National Bureau of Standards in Gaithersburg, MD, and is within the manufacturer's specifications. Results 26. Annual and monthly joint probability distributions of wind speed versus direction were computed. Winds speeds were resolved into 3-m/sec intervals, whereas the directions were at 22.5-deg intervals (i.e. 16-point compass direction specifications). These distributions are presented as wind "roses," such that the length of the petal represents the frequency of occur- rence of wind blowing from the specified direction, and the width of the petal is indicative of the speed. Resultant directions and speeds were also deter- mined by vector averaging the data (see Table 2). Wind statistics are pre- sented in Figures 6, 7, and 8. 163) N 337.50.0 995 315.0 45.0 292.5 ai f - ae he > W ae 90.0E 270.0 = a ad a Hes 225.0 135.0 202.5 180.0 ©”"> Ss 1989 Speed 0.9 m/s Direction 356 deg N 337.5 0.0 22.5 315.0 45.0 292.5 a4 ye oie & s W = 90.0E 270.0 = =A EF / | ‘Wad 112.5 225.0 135.0 202.5 180.0 °° S 1980-1989 Speed 0.9 m/s Direction 357 deg 0 10 20 30 40 Frequency, % Figure 6. Annual wind roses 16 N 337.50.0 995 315.0 : 45.0 315.0 AEA is ) 292.5 AA / > > 292.5 Z, se Bry dD cw ao c 270.0 9 “ 270.0 we oD a, q o% 112.5 247.5 Ww, Ns 225.0 ee 225.0 USepe 202.5 180.0 "> 02.5 S Ss JANUARY FEBRUARY Speed 2.1 m/s Speed 3.5 m/s Direction 316 deg Direction 352 deg 337.5 0.0 337.5 0.0 315.0 45.0 315.0 a 45.0 292.5 4 iy 292.5 . 4 zy 90.0E W ms “eal 0.0E 270.0 oF : 270.0 oF che oS S € _ OATS ep a ON 112.5 27.5 f \~ 112.5 225.0 135.0 225.0 i 135.0 202.5 180.0 97> 202.5 180.0 "> S S MARCH APRIL Speed 3.0 m/s Speed 0.3 m/s Direction 16 deg Direction 53 deg Speed, m/sec ped Sd PS 1 Te: damalinaluaaloae Len er 2 Qa 0 10 20 30 40 Frequency, % Monthly wind roses for 1989 (Sheet 1 of 3) Figure 7). 17 N N 337.50.0 995 337.50.0 995 315.0 45.0 315.0 45.0 2925 4h 7 a 29225 i i ine a > © > ow o is e W 970.0 c= eae 90.0F W700 = i 90.0E ee b 1. 112.5 era AY 112.5 vosole 135.0 2 | 135.0 202.5 180.0 97-5 202. 187.5 ) MAY JUNE Speed 1.5 m/s Speed 2.8 m/s Direction 212 deg Direction 196 deg N N 337.5 0.0 22.5 337.5 0.0 22.5 315.0 45.0 45.0 292.5 ao? iA on 292.5 a ; / oe & ges W = 90.0E W = 90.0E 270.0 = a 270.0 26 Tf pe 112.5 0 ge ys 112.5 202.5 180.0 97-5 202.5 180.0 7-5 S S JULY AUGUST Speed 1.4 m/s Speed 0.9 m/s Direction 183 deg Direction 75 deg Speed, m/sec 2 ei T LM Sho @ lend eed ICON a 0 10 20 30 40 Frequency, % Figure 7. (Sheet 2 of 3) 18 N 337.50.0 995 67.5 292.5 a 7 A, & W 270.0 onl 90.0E 247.5 Lf . \ 112.5 180.0 97"> S SEPTEMBER Speed 3.7 m/s Direction 65 deg N 337/5'0.09 i995 315.0 45.0 292.5 eal S ov 67.5 aS Weore. a afl 90.0E ; a ei / I oi 112.5 225.0 135.0 202.5 180.0 7° S NOVEMBER Speed 1.5 m/s Direction 294 deg 0 10 20 Frequency, % Figure 7. 19 N 337.50.0 995 315.0 / 45.0 292.5 cN 4 : fa Bee e > W 970.0 aan 90.0 me 247.5 L mh a6 112.5 202.5 180.0 97-5 S OCTOBER Speed 1.8 m/s Direction 10 deg N 337.50.0 995 315.0 45.0 292.5 ant y Yi. ore W é 90.0E 270.0 = & : a, int ». 112.5 225.0 135.0 202.5 180.079 5) DECEMBER Speed 4.1 m/s Direction 338 deg + N 40 (Sheet 3 of 3) N N 315.0 45.0 315.0 AY 45.0 292.5 aM . Sie 292.5 A ole Wien, — - QO.0E i Wore 2m a 90.0E wee / " ” 112.5 247.5 ve 7 ih 112.5 202.5 180.0 7° 202.5 180.0 °7"> S S JANUARY FEBRUARY Speed 2.6 m/s Speed 2.0 m/s Direction 337 deg Direction 350 deg N N 337.50.0 99. 0 337.50.0 995 315.0 ‘pany 315.0 45.0 292.5 ns P3 eae 292.5 a 7 4 ae W 270.0 c 2 90.0E W 270.0 = 90.0E 247. a a i iy 112.5 247. a, a 112.5 202.5 180.0 °”> 202.5 180.0 °”° ) S MARCH APRIL Speed 1.6 m/s Speed 0.3 m/s Direction 1 deg Direction 324 deg Speed, m/sec bcd aes eh ran nl Len Qmenag 0 10 20 30 40 Frequency, % Figure 8. Monthly wind roses for 1980 through 1989 (Sheet 1 of 3) 20 N 337.50.0 995 315.0 45.0 292.5 at , ap 67.5 comd 90.0E 112.5 135.0 202.5 180.0 7" i) MAY Speed 0.5 m/s Direction 186 deg N 337.50.0 995 315.0 90.0E 112.5 135.0 202.5 180.0 !7-> Ss JULY Speed 1.7 m/s Direction 212 deg 0 10 Frequency, % Figure 8. 21 N 337.50.0 995 315.0 45.0 292.5 al z - ae ® > Re W 970.0 = ca JUS 20 / iy 112.5 225.0 135.0 202.5 180.0 97-5 S JUNE Speed 1.2 m/s Direction 198 deg N 337.5 0.0 22.5 315.0 45.0 2925 af 7 Ps 67.5 a& Re W 270.0 = —il 90.0E lw eS / " \ 112.5 202.5 180.0 97-5 S AUGUST Speed 0.5 m/s Direction 94 deg ft N 40 (Sheet 2 of 3) Direction 353 deg N N 337.50.0 99.5 337.5 0.0 Be 315.0 "2, 45.0 315.0 fe” 292.5 et, 292.5 aM la W 970.0 ae 90.0E W790 Ss 90.0E 247.5 Gr f L we 112.5 247.5 ey l 1 ag 112.5 225.0 135.0 225.0 135.0 202.5 180.0 »”*> 202.5 180.0 °° S S SEPTEMBER OCTOBER Speed 2.0 m/s Speed 2.4 m/s Direction 40 deg Direction 26 deg N N 337.50.0 995 337.50.0 99. a 315.0 45.0 315.0 292.5 an f 4 S13 292.5 ai , #, Si: Weeare - 20:05. Won ~ a 90.0E 247.5 ee, fi q = 112.5 EP ° ™ 112.5 225.0 Ween! 225.0 iso-¢ 202.5 180.0 97-5 202.5 180.0 97> S S NOVEMBER DECEMBER Speed 1.8 m/s Speed 2.3 m/s Direction 333 deg 0 10 20 30 40 Frequency, % Figure 8. (Sheet 3 of 3) 22 PART III: WAVES 27. This section presents summaries of the wave data. A discussion of individual major storms is given in Part IX and contains additional wave data for times when wave heights exceeded 2 m at the seaward end of the FRF pier. Appendixes B through E provide more extensive data summaries for each gage, including height and period distributions, wave direction distributions, persistence tables, and spectra during storms. 28. Wave directions (similar to wind directions) at the FRF are season- ally distributed. Waves approach most frequently from north of the pier in the fall and winter and south of the pier in the summer, with the exception of storm waves that approach twice as frequently from north of the pier. Annually, waves are approximately evenly distributed between north and south (resultant wave direction being almost shore-normal). Measurement Instruments 29. The wave gages included two wave staff (Gages 645 and 625), one buoy (Gage 630), and one pressure (Gage 111) gage as shown in Figure 2 and located as follows: Distance Offshore Water Depth Operational Gage Type/Number from Baseline m Period Continuous wire (645) 238 m 3.5 11/84-12/89 Continuous wire (625) 579 m 8 11/78-12/89 Accelerometer buoy (630) 6 km 18 11/78-12/89 Pressure gage (111) 1 km 9 09/86-12/89 Staff gages 30. Two Baylor Company (Houston, TX) parallel cable inductance wave gages (Gage 645 at sta 7+80 and Gage 625 at sta 19+00 (Figure 2)) were mounted on the FRF pier. Rugged and reliable, these gages require little maintenance except to keep tension on the cables and to remove any material that may cause an electrical short between them. They were calibrated prior to installation by creating an electrical short between the two cables at known distances along the cable and recording the voltage output. Electronic signal conditioning amplifiers are used to ensure that the output signals from the gages are within a 0- to 5-V range. Manufacturer-stated gage accuracy is about 1.0 percent, with a 0.1-percent full-scale resolution; full scale is 14 m for Gage 625 and 8.2 m for Gage 645. These gages are susceptible to 23 lightning damage, but protective measures have been taken to minimize such occurrences. A more complete description of the gages’ operational charac- teristics was given by Grogg (1986). Buo age 31. One Datawell Laboratory for Instrumentation (Haarlem, The Nether- lands) Waverider buoy gage (Gage 630) measures the vertical acceleration pro- duced by the passage of a wave. The acceleration signal is double-integrated to produce a displacement signal transmitted by radio to an onshore receiver. The manufacturer stated that wave amplitudes are correct to within 3 percent of their actual value for wave frequencies between 0.065 and 0.500 Hz (corresponding 15- to 2-sec wave periods). The manufacturer also specified that the error gradually increased to 10 percent for wave periods in excess of 20 sec. The results in this report were not corrected for the manufacturer's specified amplitude errors. However, the buoy was calibrated semiannually to ensure that it was within the manufacturer's specification. Pressure gage 32. One Senso-Metrics, Incorporated (Simi Valley, CA), pressure trans- duction gage (Gage 111) installed near the ocean bottom measures the pressure changes produced by the passage of waves creating an output signal that is linear and proportional to pressure when operated within its design limits. Predeployment and postdeployment precision calibrations are performed at the FRF using a static deadweight tester. The sensor's range is 0 to 25 psi (equivalent to O- to 17-m seawater) above atmospheric pressure with a manufac- turer-stated accuracy of +0.25 percent. Copper scouring pads are installed at the sensor's diaphragm to reduce biological fouling, and the system is periodically cleaned by divers. Digital Data Analysis and Summarization 33. The data were collected, analyzed, and stored on magnetic tape using the FRF’s VAX computer. Data sets were normally collected every 6 hr. During storms, the collection was at 3-hr intervals. For each gage, a data set consisted of four contiguous records of 4,096 points recorded at 0.5 Hz (approximately 34-min long), for a total of 2 hr and 16 min. Analysis was performed on individual 34-min records. 34. The analysis program computes the first moment (mean) and the 24 second moment about the mean (variance) and then edits the data by checking for "jumps," "spikes," and points exceeding the voltage limit of the gage. A jump is defined as a data value greater than five standard deviations from the previous data value, whereas a spike is a data value more than five standard deviations from the mean. If less than five consecutive jumps or spikes are found, the program linearly interpolates between acceptable data and replaces the erroneous data values. The editing stops if the program finds more than five consecutive jumps or spikes or more than a total of 100 bad points or the variance of the voltage is below 1 x 10° squared volts. The statistics and diagnostics from the analysis are saved. 35. Sea surface energy spectra are computed from the edited time series. Spectral estimates are computed from smaller data segments obtained by dividing the 4,096-point record into several 512-point segments. The estimates are then ensemble-averaged to produce a more accurate spectrum. These data segments are overlapped by 50 percent (known as the Welch (1967) method) and have been shown to produce improved statistical properties than from nonoverlapped segments. The mean and linear trends are removed from each segment prior to spectral analysis. To reduce sidelobe leakage in the spec- tral estimates, a data window was applied. The first and last 10 percent of data points was multiplied by a cosine bell (Bingham, Godfrey, and Tukey 1967). Spectra were computed from each segment with a discreet Fast Fourier Transform and then ensemble-averaged. Sea surface spectra from subsurface pressure gages were obtained by applying the linear wave theory transfer function. 36. Unless otherwise stated, wave height in this report refers to the energy-based parameter H,, defined as four times the zeroth moment wave height of the estimated sea surface spectrum (i.e., four times the square root of the variance) computed from the spectrum passband. Energy computations from the spectra are limited to a passband between 0.05 and 0.50 Hz for sur- face gages and between 0.05 Hz and a high frequency cutoff for subsurface gages. This high frequency limit is imposed to eliminate aliased energy and noise measurements from biasing the computation of H,, and is defined as the frequency where the linear theory transfer function is less than 0.1 (spectral values are multiplied by 100 or more). Smoother and more statistically significant spectral estimates are obtained by band-averaging contiguous spectral components (three components are averaged per band producing a 25 frequency band width of 0.0117 Hz). 37. Wave period T, is defined as the period associated with the maximum energy band in the spectrum, which is computed using a 3-point running average band on the spectrum. The peak period is reported as the reciprocal of the center frequency (i.e., T, = 1/frequency) of the spectral band with the highest energy. A detailed description of the analysis techniques are presented in a report by Andrews Gl9'87 en Results 38. The wave conditions for the year are shown in Figure 9. For all four gages, the distributions of wave height for the current year and all years combined are presented in Figures 10 and 11, respectively. Distribu- tions of wave period are presented in Figure 12. 39. Multiple year comparisons of data for Gage 111 actually incorporate data for 1985 and 1986 from Gage 640, a discontinued Waverider buoy previously located at the approximate depth and distance offshore as Gage 111 and data for 1987 from Gage 141, located 30 m south of Gage 111. 40. Refraction, bottom friction, and wave breaking contribute to the observed differences in height and period. During the most severe storms when the wave heights exceed 3 m at the seaward end of the pier, the surf zone (wave breaking) has been observed to extend past the end of the pier and occasionally 1 km offshore. This occurrence is a major reason for the dif- ferences in the distributions between Gage 630 and the inshore gages. The wave height statistics for the staff gage (Gage 645), located at the landward end of the pier, were considerably lower than those for the other gages. In all but the calmest conditions, this gage is within the breaker zone. Con- sequently, these statistics represent a lower energy wave climate. a * M. E. Andrews. 1987. "Standard Wave Data Analysis Procedures for Coastal Engineering Applications," unpublished report prepared for the US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station, Vicksburg, MS. 26 Height, m own FON FON FON FON FOH FS Nv oo Period, sec = nN oy nN ery lo) oo Oo oo o 20 13 5-7 19 11 13 15.417, 19, 2123.25 27.29/11, 3.5) 07. 9, 11.15 15) 17319 21 235 25:27 29151 Day of the Month Jan Jul |-—-—J"1 tee Gh era Aug ie ay ocean Tusa Apr Oct ay ea een an May Nov Jun Dec ra a ath 13 5 7 9 1113 15 17 19 2123252729 1 3 5 7 9 1113 15 17 19 2123 25 27 29 31 Day of the Month Figure 9. 1989 Time-histories of wave height and period for Gage 630 2H Height, m ) 10: 10. 10° 10) 10 Percent Greater Than Indicated Figure 10. 1989 annual wave height distributions Height, m USL ela 10 10° Percent Greater Than Indicated Figure 11. Annual distribution of wave heights for 1980 through 1989 28 40 Gage 630 1989 Gage 630 1980-89 20 AA MMP 4 Bias eo __ AMAA ede __ ol Agbedao 8 ae Gage 111 1989 Gage 111 1985-89 20 - 0 P TTA p Yitg aan _ oan _abaeedon. 3 i Gage 625 1989 Gage 625 1980-89 8 im BiGivz TA f __pageadoo __pabekdgoo 40 Gage 645 Gage 645 1980-89 20 Figure 12. Annual wave period distributions for all gages 41. Summary wave statistics for the current year and all years com- bined are presented for Gage 630 in Table 3. Table 3 Wave Statistics for Gage 630 1989 1980-1989 Height Period Height Period Std. Std. Std. Std. Mean Dev. Extreme Mean Dev. Number Mean Dev. Extreme Mean Dev. Number Month m m m Date sec sec Obs. m m m Date sec sec Obs. Jan 152 0.6 2.9 23 8.2 2.6 121 nA OFZ 4.5 1983 8.0 PARK) 1071 Feb 1.3 0.9 4.3 24 7.6 2.3 105 a2 0.7 Sea 1987 8.4 276 1010 Mar 135 1.0 4.2 vA Saiz Zed 123 ae 0.7 4.7 1983 8.6 2.6 1121 Apr 1.0 0.5 29 15 ea) 2.0 177; abaal 0.6 She 1988 8.6 Ani/ 1092 May 0.8 0.3 a8 28 8.4 3.1 122 0.9 0.5 SING) 1986 (-}hal 2.4 1105 Jun 0.6 0.2 pe 29 720) 2.0 118 0.7 0.4 2.4 1988 Miah Bie 1045 Jul 0.8 0.3 1.4 29 8.5 2.9 109 0.7 0.3 Pxaal 1985 tla | PS) 1057 Aug 0.9 0.4 anid 8 8.4 Ze 112 0.8 0.5 3.6 1981 8.0 2.4 1061 Sep 15 0.7 320 24 9.6 Klay ip tal pal 0.6 Bt 1985 8.6 rae es 1071 Oct 135 Orr Kae | 26 riage 2.9 83 aber 0) 7/ 4.3 1982 8.7 Zac 1122 Nov 150 0.4 pA) 21 8.0 3.0 97 pe 0.6 4.1 1981 7.9 2.8 958 Dec 1,5 aly 5.6 24 Bick 353. 59 ie 0.8 5.6 1989 Bk3 3.0 946 Annual hae f 0.7 5.6 Dec 8.2 2.7 1277 Al.) 0.6 6.1 Sep 1985 8.3 2.6 12659 42. Annual joint distributions of wave height versus wave period for Gage 630 are presented for all years combined in Table 5, and for 1989 in Table 4. Similar distributions for the other gages are included in Appendixes B-E. 43. Annual distributions of wave directions (relative to True North) based on daily observations of direction at the seaward end of the pier and height from Gage 625 (or Gage 111 when data for Gage 625 were unavailable) are shown in Figure 13. Monthly wave "roses" for 1989 and all years combined are presented in Figures 14 and 15, respectively. 30 Table 4 Annual (1989) Joint Distribution of H,, versus T, for Gage 630* Period(sec 20 =e oO =" 4s 0=UNSe0="6.10= S70= 9 8h0— S010 0= 1250-140 =s1'6n0= Height (m) 2.9 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 ZeOt 1289 9.9 11.9 13.9 15.9 _Longer Total 0.00 - 0.49 47 5 31 102 94 141 337 251) 125 Zs 55: : 1206 0.50 - 0.99 31 188.258 626 807 619 752 767 509 125 243 16 4941 100K = 49 i Fi 188 368 446 258 180° 7) 227 149 70 39 hs 1925 1.50 - 1.99 Z . 8 188 227 149 94 125 78 47 86 8 1010 2.00 - 2.49 16 149 31 125 47 23 55 63 509 ZD0 = 2.399 FE 47 31 16 31 8 55 188 3000 =" 3.49 5 39 8 8 16 8 8 87 3'.50)'= '3)..99 A 8 s 39 16 63 4.00 - 4.49 E - A ‘ $ u : 16 16 8 23 ‘ 63 4.50 - 4.99 : : 3 9 4 : : : ‘ ; : 0) 5.00 - Greater ; 5 3 A 6 : 8 ‘ . 2 8 Total 78 188 485 1300 1723 1284 1535 1457 994 344 588 24 * Percent occurrence (x100) of height and period. Table 5 Annual (1980-1989) Joint Distribution of H,, versus T, for Gage 630 (All Years)* Period(sec) 20>" 35,0=" °450—0 (Si0= (630= 0720-5 2810-9 Sk0=5 1080-9120 -—1450- 16.0- Height (m) 2.9 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 11.9 13.9 _15.9 _Longer Total 0.00 - 0.49 30 16 28 66 94 118 118 329 193 70 126 3 1351! 0.50 - 0.99 38 134 254 512 596 525 525 849 781 149 216 5 4791 1.00 - 1.49 " 9 140 398 450 264 264 239 339 42 122 4 2210 90)= E99 A : 13 15917253) 113 113 81 133 36 78 5 947 2.00 - 2.49 2 25 85 70 70 57 66 32 43 2) 424 SEWN Ge soe he] ; 3 < al 8 33 33 18 37 10 26 : 149 3.00 - 3.49 F ‘ " ; 1 12 12 14 17 5 9 5 7a: 350) = 3.99 i 5 6 3 . 1 1 6 13 4 5 5 35 4.00 - 4.49 és 5 5 : a 2 8 Ps 4 p 19 4.50 - 4.99 6 . 6 5 ; D : 2 ‘ 5 6 3 5.00 - Greater " b F 5 5 , ‘ 1 al 2 1 é 5 Total 68 159 437 1161 1487 1136 1596 1360 1590 352 630 29 * Percent occurrence (x100) of height and period. : 7 ‘> 67.5 G cet 90.0E ae 112.5 135.0 157.5 S 1989 Height 0.7 m Direction 63 deg 1980-1989 Height 0.8 m Direction 66 deg Height, m 2 S ° 2 98 oO — N Le) + ww 0 20 40 60 80 100 Frequency, % Figure 13. Annual wave roses 32 N 0.0 92.5 0.0 99.5 45.0 ; | Vf UY 67.5 Ex, | 7 led 67.5 & 112.5 ) S JANUARY FEBRUARY Height 0.9 m Height 0.8 m Direction 58 deg Direction 32 deg N N 22.5 22.5 45.0 45.0 y Se 67.5 / ? 67.5 - -_ ~ ee . 112.5 % 112.5 135.0 135.0 S S) MARCH APRIL Height 1.1 m Height 0.7 m Direction 52 deg Direction 61 deg Height, m OCS ee) EMO Om Oo - N Le) wt Ww 0 20 40 60 80 100 Frequency, % Figure 14. Monthly wave roses for 1989 (Sheet 1 of 3) 33 MAY Height 0.4 m Direction 70 deg JULY Height 0.4 m Direction 88 deg Height, m oO) oye OSE O Oe? fF ON Hh 19 0 20 40 60 Frequency, % Figure 14. (Sheet 34 N 0.0 99.5 45.0 67.5 17, ‘s eo iia 90.0E ae 112.5 135.0 S JUNE Height 0.4 m Direction 95 deg N 0.0 99.5 45.0 67.5 | ly 157.5 AUGUST Height 0.5 m Direction 75 deg OFS ~ wo 80 100 Dio} 53) & 67.5 % a | asc 112.5 S) SEPTEMBER Height 1.2 m Direction 82 deg 2) 112.5 S NOVEMBER Height 0.7 m Direction 55 deg S OCTOBER Height 0.8 m Direction 73 deg DECEMBER Height 0.9 m Direction 46 deg Height, m SN OL ne Wiha tar coca ce (Sy CS eT on aS aid BE 0 20 40 60 80 100 Frequency, % Figure 14. (Sheet 3 of 3) 35 JANUARY Height 0.9 m Direction 57 deg MARCH Height 0.9 m Direction 64 deg 0 Figure 15. FEBRUARY Height 0.9 m Direction 61 deg APRIL Height 0.8 m Direction 67 deg Height, m Oto, Oo | (Oo : me are = N m + 20 40 60 80 100 Frequency, % Monthly wave roses for 1980 through 1989 (Sheet 1 of 3) 36 MAY Height 0.6 m Direction 74 deg JULY Height 0.4 m Direction 81 deg JUNE Height 0.5 m Direction 77 deg AUGUST Height 0.6 m Direction 75 deg ° o oOo ro) ~~ Ww 0 40 60 80 100 Frequency, % Figure 15; “(Sheet 2 of 3) 37 SEPTEMBER Height 0.8 m Direction 70 deg NOVEMBER Height 0.9 m Direction 61 deg 0 Height, m o)) yornNe - Nn 20 40 60 Frequency, % OCTOBER Height 1.0 m Direction 66 deg DECEMBER Height 0.8 m Direction 57 deg 2 0° t+ w 80 100 Figure 15 (Sheet 3 of 3) 38 PART IV: CURRENTS 44. Surface current speed and direction at the FRF are influenced by winds, waves, and, indirectly, by the bottom topography. The extent of the respective influence varies daily. However, winds tend to dominate the cur- rents at the seaward end of the pier, whereas waves dominate within the surf zone. Observations 45. Near 0700 EST, daily observations of surface current speed and direction were made at (a) the seaward end of the pier, (b) the midsurf position on the pier, and (c) 10 to 15 m from the beach 500 m updrift of the pier. Surface currents were determined by observing the movement of dye on the water surface. Results 46. Annual mean and mean currents for 1980 through 1989 are presented in Table 6 and in Figure 16. Figure 16 shows the daily and average annual measurements at the beach, pier midsurf, and pier end locations. Since the relative influences of the winds and waves vary with position from shore, the current speeds and, to some extent, direction vary at the beach, midsurf, and pier end locations. Magnitudes generally are largest at the midsurf location and lowest at the end of the pier. 39 Table 6 Mean Longshore Surface Currents* Pier End, cm/sec Pier Midsurf, cm/sec Beach, cm/sec 1980- 1980- 1980- Month 1989 1989 1989 1989 1989 1989 Jan 15 16 12 19 10 13 Feb T7, 18 23 12 13 12 Mar 16 16 8 14 1 13 Apr 12 11 7 al =5 v/ May cal 10 -9 -4 —7/ =1 Jun 9 6 =6 {3} 17 -6 Jul 12 4 -6 =15 -19 -10 Aug 8 8 -8 -12 -8 -6 Sep cal 7 —r¥4 =6 -30 -4 Oct 10 9 13 1 24 4 Nov 6 13 e) 6 10 LL Dec 24 15 55 18 35 11 Annual aL 11 5 Z 1 4 * + = southward; - = northward. 40 Pier End Year Mean, cm/s ——« 1989 11 @---01980-89 i1 Pier Midsurf Year Mean, cm/s ——« 1989 5 @-5-0 1980-89 2 ‘Current Speed, cm/s 200 , Beach (500 m Updrift) year Mean. cm/s —150 ~——« 1989 1 £ @=--01980-89 4 c -100 ° ° .. % ° z ° v bd oe be ° ° hd OVeo ° . * ° omnis -50--°, ® ‘es a aes ala oe ¥ Ae M eae ; ‘2 or BR AS, on Se (hipisisien ces Beret, Wenis e > oe > Pel nt alate on et SESS Se cL ee RIES: Span IR a ve ROSS Bee O O25) e ° ° ° ote o ° ° e 5 ; 5 Bier het ° eats ee . hie $ oh ie oF é A 50 5 ear unces - 5 be “9 oot ° of ° < ° ° 5 ° * Pe aaieith ho C a 2 ° asc ie ° nes 18; § . oe ena 3 3 eo e ° *: mK ° 150-4 ; “ 3 ; 200 Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Month Figure 16. Daily current speeds and directions with monthly means for 41 1989 PART V: TIDES AND WATER LEVELS Measurement Instrument 47. Water level data were obtained from a NOAA/NOS control tide station (sta 865-1370) located at the seaward end of the research pier (Figure 2) by using a Leupold and Stevens, Inc. (Beaverton, OR), digital tide gage. This analog-to-digital recorder is a float-activated, negator-spring, counterpoised instrument that mechanically converts the vertical motion of a float into a coded, punched paper tape record. The below-deck installation at pier sta 19+60 consisted of a 30.5-cm-diam stilling well with a 2.5-cm orifice and a 21.6-cm-diam float. 48. Operation and tending of the tide gage conformed to NOS standards. The gage was checked daily for proper operation of the punch mechanism and for accuracy of the time and water level information. The accuracy was determined by comparing the gage level reading with a level read from a reference elec- tric tape gage. Once a week, a heavy metal rod was lowered down the stilling well and through the orifice to ensure free flow of water into the well. During the summer months, when biological growth was most severe, divers inspected and cleaned the orifice opening as required. 49. The tide station was inspected quarterly by a NOAA/NOS tide field group. Tide gage elevation was checked using existing NOS control positions, and the equipment was checked and adjusted as needed. Both NOS and FRF personnel also reviewed procedures for tending the gage and handling the data. Any specific comments on the previous months of data were discussed to ensure data accuracy. 50. Digital paper tape records of tide heights taken every 6 min were analyzed by the Tides Analysis Branch of NOS. An interpreter created a digi- tal magnetic computer tape from the punch paper tape, which was then processed on a large computer. First, a listing of the instantaneous tidal height values was created for visual inspection. If errors were encountered, a com- puter program was used to fill in or recreate bad or missing data using cor- rect values from the nearest NOS tide station and accounting for known time lags and elevation anomalies. The data were plotted, and a new listing was generated and rechecked. When the validity of the data had been confirmed, monthly tabulations of daily highs and lows, hourly heights (instantaneous 42 height selected on the hour), and various extreme and/or mean water level statistics were computed. Results 51. Tides at the FRF are semidiurnal with both daily high and low tides approximately equal. Tide height statistics are presented in Table 7. Figure 17 plots the monthly tide statistics for all available data, and Figure 18 compares the distribution of daily high and low water levels and hourly tide heights. The monthly or annual mean sea level (MSL) reported is the average of the hourly heights, whereas the mean tide level is midway between mean high water (MHW) and mean low water (MLW), which are the averages of the daily high- and low-water levels, respectively, relative to NGVD. Mean range (MR) is the difference between MHW and MLW levels, and the lowest water level for the month is the extreme low (EL) water, while the highest water level is the extreme high (EH) water level. 43 Tide Height Statistics* Table 7 sad Month Mean Mean or High Tide Year Water Level Jan 43 5 Feb 46 6 Mar 48 9g Apr 44 4 May 48 7 Jun 47 7 Jul 50 9 Aug 58 18 Sep 60 20 Oct a =. Nov 45 6 Dec 47 6 1989 49 9 1988 46 6 1987 55 15 1986 60 13 1985 59 10 1984 64 16 1983 68 19 1982 58 8 1981 59 8 1980 59 8 1979 60 9 1979- 1989 59 11 Mean Sea Level 12 Measurements are in centimeters. Mean Low Mean Water Range 1989 -34 77 -34 80 -30 78 =i; 81 -34 82 =33 80 -30 80 =22: 80 -20 80 Gage Inoperative -34 79 -34 81 aa 80 Prior Years fie) 79 -24 79 =35 95 =o7 96 =e 97 =30) 98 -42 99 -42 101 -43 102 -43 103 =36 95 44 Extreme High 81 102 109 88 76 76 77 88 102 76 117 199 129 113 123 136 147 143 127 149 118 121 199 Apr Jan Dec Dec Oct Jan Oct Nov Mar Feb Mar 1989 ie, -63 -108 -93 id, 7/5) -108 -110 -119 -95 -119 Dec Nov Jan Apr Jul Mar Feb Apr Mar Sep Mar 1980 Water Level, m Water Level, cm 140 100 2 MHW MSL MLW -100 -120 =u =I = zat at os oa T T T 1 1979 1980 1981 1982 1983 1984 1985 1986 1987 1988 1989 Year Figure 17. Monthly tide and water level statistics relative to NGVD 1989 0.01 0.10 1.00 10.00 25.00 50.00 75.00 90.00 99.00 99.90 99.99 Percent Greater Than Figure 18. Distributions of hourly tide heights and high- and low-water levels 45 1979-89 PART VI: WATER CHARACTERISTICS 52. Monthly averages of daily measurements of surface water tempera- ture, visibility, and density at the seaward end of the FRF pier are given in Table 8. The summaries represent single observations made near 0/700 EST and, therefore, may not reflect daily average conditions since such characteris- tics can change within a 24-hr period. Large temperature variations were com- mon when there were large differences between the air and water temperatures and variations in wind direction. From past experience, persistent onshore winds move warmer surface water toward the shoreline, although offshore winds cause colder bottom water to circulate shoreward resulting in lower tempera- EGuEces: Table 8 Mean Surface Water Characteristics Temperature Visibility DESH deg C m g/cm 1980- 1980- 1980- Month 1989 1989 1989 1989 1989 1989 Jan 79 5.8 1.9 12 1.0250 1.0236 Feb Wao 4.9 Pavel bez 1.0248 T0232) Mar 6.4 6.5 12 1,5 1.0235 1.0230 Apr aa SP 10.9 139 139 1.0234 0227, May 15,5 Lone, 249 2.4 1.0220 1.0222 Jun 19.0 19.3 4.1 3.3) 1.0224 1.0216 Jul 23.6 21.9 Zi0) SEZ. 1.0198 1.0215 Aug 25:,6 23.4 ay5 3.1 1.0181 1.0205 Sep 24.4 22.8 1.3 Zi) 1.0208 1.0211 Oct 21.6 19.2 1.18 1.5 2.0211 1.0217 Nov 16.5 14.9 1.4 1.0 10235 1.0230 Dec Wed 9.9 O77, 11 1.0239 1.0235 Annual 15.6 14.5 20) Zisill 1.0223 1.0223 Temperature 53. Daily sea surface water temperatures (Figure 19) were measured with an NOS water sampler and thermometer. Monthly mean water temperatures (Table 8) varied with the air temperatures (see Table 2). 46 Temperature Year deg C *—x 1989 15.6 e----© 1980-89 14:5 30.0 25.0 20.0 15.0 10.0 Water Temperature, deg C 5.0 0.0 Ca ee ae wee” Lie ee JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC Month Figure 19. Daily water temperature values with monthly means Visibility 54. Visibility in coastal nearshore waters depends on the amount of salts, soluble organic material, detritus, living organisms, and inorganic particles in the water. These dissolved and suspended materials change the absorption and attenuation characteristics of the water that vary daily and yearly. 55. Visibility was measured with a 0.3-m-diam Secchi disk, and similar to water temperature, variation was related to onshore and offshore winds. Onshore winds moved warm clear surface water toward shore, whereas offshore winds brought up colder bottom water with large concentrations of suspended matter. Figure 20 presents the daily and monthly mean surface visibility values for the year. Large variations were common, and visibility less than 1 m was expected in any month. Monthly means are given in Table 8. 47 Year Mean, m *—* 1989 7.0 2.0 e----01980-89 2.1 6.0 5.0 Water Visibility, m 0.0 aL aaa RR Taal JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC Month Figure 20. Daily water visibility values with monthly means Density 56. Daily and monthly mean surface density values, plotted in Figure 21, were measured with a hydrometer. Monthly means are also given in Table 8. 48 Density, g/em® Year Mean, g/cm* x*— 1989 1.0223 O----© 1980-89 1.0223 ° iB ° ° we S| TREE aL LEE SL aL Sie ae JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC Month Figure 21. Daily water density values with monthly means 49 PART VII: SURVEYS 57. Waves and currents interacting with bottom sediments produce changes in the beach and nearshore bathymetry. These changes can occur very rapidly in response to storms or slowly as a result of persistent but less forceful seasonal variations in wave and current conditions. 58. Nearshore bathymetry at the FRF is characterized by regular shore- parallel contours, a moderate slope, and a barred surf zone (usually an outer storm bar in water depths of about 4.5 m and an inner bar in water depths between 1.0 and 2.0 m). This pattern is interrupted in the immediate vicinity of the pier where a permanent trough runs under much of the pier, ending in a scour hole where depths can be up to 3.0 m greater than the adjacent bottom (Figure 22). This trough, which apparently is the result of the interaction of waves and currents with the pilings, varies in shape and depth with chang- ing wave and current conditions. The effect of the pier on shore-parallel contours occurs as far as 300 m away, and the shoreline may be affected up to 350 m from the pier (Miller, Birkemeier, and DeWall 1983). \\\ N Figure 22. Permanent trough under the FRF pier, 27 February 89 50 59. To document the temporal and spatial variability in bathymetry, surveys were conducted approximately monthly of an area extending 600 m north and south of the pier and approximately 950 m offshore. Contour maps result- ing from these surveys along with plots of change in elevation between surveys are given in Appendix A. 60. All surveys used the Coastal Research Amphibious Buggy (CRAB), a 10.7-m-tall amphibious tripod, and a Zeiss electronic surveying system described by Birkemeier and Mason (1984). The profile locations are shown in each figure in Appendix A. Survey accuracy was about +3 cm horizontally and vertically. Monthly soundings along both sides of the FRF pier were collected by lowering a weighted measuring tape to the bottom and recording the distance below the pier deck. Soundings were taken midway between the pier pilings to minimize errors caused by scour near the pilings. 61. A history of bottom elevations below Gages 645 and 625 is presented in Figure 23 for their respective pier stations of sta 7+80 (238 m) and sta 19+00 (579 m) along with intermediate locations, 323 and 433 m. Distance (m) 238 323 433 Depth, m 579 JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC Month Figure 23. Time-history of bottom elevations at selected locations under the FRF pier il PART VIII: PHOTOGRAPHY Aerial Photographs 62. Aerial photography was taken quarterly using a 23-cm aerial mapping camera at a scale of 1:12,000. All coverage was at least 60-percent overlap, with flights flown as closely as possible to low tide between 1000 and 1400 EST with less than 10-percent cloud cover. The flight lines covered are shown in Figure 24. Figure 25 is a sample of the imagery obtained on 17 April 1989; the available aerial photographs for the year are: Date Flight Lines Format > Jan 2: Color 3 B/W 11 Mar il B/W 2 Color 17 Apr 2 Color 5} B/W 30) Jul 1 B/W 2 Color 3 B/W ISRO cite 2 Color 3 B/W Beach Photographs 63. Daily color slides of the beach were taken using a 35-mm camera from the same location on the pier looking north and south (Figure 26). The location from which each picture was taken, as well as the date, time, and a brief description of the picture, was marked on the slides. 52 Ses RUOEE INLET SCALE 1 12,000 ~I CAPE HATTERAS Re FIELD RESEARCH { FACILITY Figure 24. Aerial photography flight lines 2); 4 17 89 1°12000 ale = 1:12,000 Figure 25. Sample aerial photograph, 17 April 1989 54 North View South View ce 8) March: 989 Figure 26. Beach photos looking north and south from the FRF pier (Sheet 1 of 4) 5D North View South View oo ey ia) 8 at i £. 23 June 1989 Figure 26. (Sheet 2 of 4) 56 North View South View . co aaa OSS - So es a y Seas ' a oo fe a ae -— 7 ee ne i. 14 September 1989 Figure 26. (Sheet 3 of 4) oy North View South View jer October 1989 k. 6 November 1989 1. 8 December 1989 Figure 26. (Sheet 4 of 4) 58 PART IX: STORMS 64. This section discusses storms (defined here as times when the wave height parameter, H,, , FRF pier). equaled or exceeded 2 m at the seaward end of the Sample spectra from Gage 630 are given in Appendix B. Prestorm and/or poststorm bathymetry diagrams are given in Appendix A. Tracking information was provided by NOAA Daily Weather Maps (US Department of Commerce ROG es 59 Gi 4 January 1989 (Figure 27) Dropping down from Canada on 3 January, this storm quickly intensified as it passed over Virginia into the Atlantic. Maximum wind speeds (from northwest) exceeded 13 m/sec on 4 January at 0242 EST, followed 6 hr later by the maximum H,, (Gage 111) of 2.24 m Gis = 7.11 sec). The minimum atmospheric pressure of 995 mb occurred on 3 January at 2042 EST. Precipita- tion totaled 5 mm. 1040. Atmospheric Pressure, mb Gage 616 1030 1020 1010 1000 990 25 Wind Speed, m/sec Gage 932 20 18 10 5 0 360 Wind Direction, Deg True N Gage 933 270 180 90 i) 4 150 Wave Directlon, Deg True N Gage 3621 90 30 -30 3 Wave Height, H,,,,m Gage 111 2 1 0) 1 25 Wave Period, T,, sec Gage 111 20 15 10 eR ee 5 0) 1 2 Woter Level from NGVD, m Gage 1 1 ° Ts Sam pS RL CoS LES T.AT Ie) Sa ES UG LST (LL Ug pa Fn LEAT 3 4 5 6 JANUARY 1989 Figure 27. Data for 4 January 1989 storm 60 23-24 January 1989 (Figure 28 66. On 20 January, this storm developed in the Gulf of Mexico and slowly moved across Florida into the Atlantic early on 23 January. Blocked by a New England high pressure system, the storm was unable to move up the coast and was forced into the open ocean. Maximum wind speeds (from north) exceeding 13 m/sec were recorded on 23 January at 1334 EST. The maximum H,, (Gage glI1) of 9308 m (T5. = 10.67 sec) occurred at 1600 EST. Because the storm tracked well to the south of the FRF, the atmospheric pressure remained high, dropping only to 1015.8 mb. There was no precipitation. 1040 Atmospheric Pressure, mb Gage 616 1030 4020 Oo ee Sr ee eer) See 28 Wind Speed, m/sec Gage 932 eo eee eale Wind Direction, Deg Gage 933 Wave Direction, Deg True N Gage 3621 ‘ —< 4 Wave Helght, H,,,,™m Gage 111 3 2 ee eM 1 0 = 28 Wave Period, Tp, sec Gage 111 20 15 he NU eee 5 = 0 2 Water Level from NGVD, m Gage1 1 0 —2 LL SUR SELES FU CST ELIS TUL) UU Po i Pr | 22 23 24 25 26 JANUARY 1989 Figure 28. Data for 23-24 January 1989 storm 17-19 February 1989 (Figure 29 67. Strong onshore winds (from northeast) generated by a Canadian high pressure system were reinforced by the formation of a storm off the North Carolina coast early on 18 February. Blocked by the high pressure system to the north, the storm quickly moved offshore. Peak winds (from northeast) exceeded 16 m/sec, coinciding with the maximum H,, (Gage 625) of 2.86 Gs = 7.53 sec). Both events were recorded on 18 February at 1634 EST. The minimum atmospheric pressure of 1,019 mb occurred on 19 February at 0242 EST. Total precipitation was 42 mm. 1040 Atmospheric Pressure, mb Gage 616 1030 ee =e RE at 2g eee er 1020 1010 1000 990 Wind Speed, m/sec Gage 932 Wind Direction, Deg True N Gage 933 150 Wave Direction, Deg True N Gage 3621 Wave Helght, Horm Gage 625 ee | Wave Perlod, T,, sec Gage 625 ° 1 2 Water Level from NGVD, m Gage 1 1 ' SN EN ial EN NONI NNN -1 ae GETS Tia T Tosa rar) 16 7 18 19 20 21 FEBRUARY 1989 Figure 29. Data for 17-19 February 1989 storm 23-25 February 1989 (Figure 30 68. This powerful northeaster developed off the North Carolina coast on 23 February and rapidly intensified. On 24 February, the storm picked up speed as it moved up the coast and was located off the New England coast by 25 February. Onshore winds (from north) approached 20 m/sec at 0434 EST on 24 February followed by the maximum H,, (Gage 625) of 4.09 m (T, = 11.13 sec) at 1000 EST. The minimum atmospheric pressure of 1,006.1 mb was recorded the same day at 0242 EST. Total precipitation was 12 mm. A number of cottages and motels along the Outer Banks were damaged by this storm, and erosion was severe to much of the oceanfront dune system, resulting in scarps up to 7 m in height. 1040 Atmospheric Pressure, mb Gage 616 1030 1020 an a sa LOR eT aa Cer Ahan ke 1000 990 | 28 Wind Speed, m/sec Gage 932 20 18 10 6 0 SSS 360 Wind Direction, Deg True Gage 933 270 180 90 ° 1 150 Wave Direction, Deg True N Gage 3621 90 30 hh -30 Wave Helght, H,,..™ Gage 625 ee Wada ed Wave Period, T,, sec Gage 625 C) 1 2 Water Level from NGVD, m Gage 1 1 C) -1 sa lis T T Ns 1 22 23 24 25 26 27 FEBRUARY 1989 Figure 30. Data for 23-25 February 1989 storm 7-11 March 1989 (Figure 31 69. Forming over Alabama early on 6 March this complex storm moved off the North Carolina coast on 7 March and promply stalled. Forming on a stationary front over the Florida Keys, a secondary low pressure system quickly intensified as it crossed Florida and moved into the Atlantic. Blocked by a Canadian high pressure system, the storm slowly moved up the coast, finally stalling off the Georgia coast, changed direction, and moved offshore. By 11 March the storm no longer threatened the coastline. Maximum wind speeds (from north-northeast) approached 18 m/sec at 0242 EST on 8 March. However, onshore winds exceeding 15 m/sec lasted for 59 consecutive hours. The maximum H,, (Gage 111) of 4.23 m Gr. = 12.19 sec) occurred at 1934 EST on 7 March. The minimum atmospheric pressure of 1,007.3 mb (this pressure reading indicates that the storm's center was never close to the FRF) was recorded on 6 March at 1442 EST. Precipitation totaled 28 mn. 70. This storm destroyed or damaged over 100 cottages and motels along the Outer Banks and as such was the most destructive storm in this area since the infamous "Ash Wednesday" (March 1962) storm. In addition to the storm's intensity and duration, several contributing factors coincided to increase its destructive potential. These included spring tides occurring during the height of the storm and a beach already severely eroded by intense storms in February. 64 1040 Atmospheric Pressure, mb Gage 616 1020 aaa ee eae ee PRN E 1000 990 s 26 Wind Speed, m/sec Gage 932 : Wind Direction, Deg True N Gage 933 150 Wave Directlon, Deg True N Gage 3621 <0 Gage Inoperative 30 ~30 5 Wave Helght, H,,4,m Gage 111 4 3 2 1 1) = =| 25 Wave Period, T,, sec Gage 111 20 15 erence 5 t) — - —-- = 1 2 Water Level from NGVD, m Gage 1 THTTTTTTT PTT errr reer yr tre try rt ValatataWalahitata (alata ntntataarate ia] 6 7 8 9 10 " 12 MARCH 1989 Figure 31. Data for 7-11 March 1989 storm 65 23-24 March 1989 (Figure 32) 71. Developing in the Gulf of Mexico on 23 March, this storm rapidly traveled up the eastern seaboard, arriving over eastern North Carolina early on 24 March, and reached New England the next day. Maximum wind speeds (from northeast) exceeded 14 m/sec on 23 March at 1442 EST, followed several hours later (2200 EST) by the maximum H,, (Gage 625) of 2.35 m Gi = 9.48 sec). The minimum atmospheric pressure of 1,009.6 mb was recorded on 24 March at 1142 EST. Total precipitation was 60 mm. 1040 Atmospheric Pressure, mb Gage 616 1020 Scag MRI Sr i ae ape VN BA 1010 2a oT eae 25 Wind Speed, m/sec Gage 932 20 18 10 Font a Hane RAEN 5 (ame Oey 0 1 380 Wind Direction, Deg True N ge 933 270 a 180 90 CY) 1 150 Wave Direction, Deg True N Gage 3621 90 Gage Inoperative 30 -30 3 Wave Helght, no? m Gage 111 Se eae Ale Teh ———_—_ 0+——--— ——-- —--—--— ——__—_—--- _ - 1 25 Wave Period, T,, sec Gage 111 : Vv Se aren te) 2 Water Level from NGVD, m Gage 1 1 0 BE LDS LY LB ELD GEO NIG I 1 Ss CL RE (TD TY RTE en TD ah DD OL ne a a a et | 22 23 24 25 26 MARCH 1989 Figure 32. Data for 23-24 March 1989 storm 66 11 April 1989 (Figure 33) 72. Developing well off the North Carolina coast on 10 April this minor storm remained stationary throughout the day, finally disintegrating on 11 April. Maximum onshore winds (from north-northeast) exceeded 15 m/sec at 0208 EST, followed several hours later by the maximum H,, (Gage 625) of 2.08 m (T, = 6.74 sec). The atmospheric pressure only dropped to 1,018.3 mb early on 10 April. Precipitation amounted to 26 mm. 1040 Atmospheric Pressure, mb Gage 616 25- Wind Speed, m/sec Gage 932 150 Wave Direction, Deg True N Gage 3511 90 30 -30 3 Wave Height, H,,,,™ Gage 625 | | aa o+— 1 235 Wave Perlod, T,, sec Gage 625 ae 24 Water Level from NGVD, m Gage 1 1 ° 1 2, re Ba T a 10 " 12 13 APRIL 1989 Figure 33. Data for 11 April 1989 storm 67 4-10 September 1989, Hurricane Gabrielle (Figure 34) 73. Storm waves, initially caused by strong (over 13 m/sec) northeast winds following the passage of a cold front on 3 September, attained an H,, (at Gage 625) of 2.54 m tis = 9.48 sec) late on 4 September. Moderate winds through 5 September kept the H,, above 2 m. Early on 6 September, with the Hn hovering just above 2 m, the period took a dramatic jump to over 15 sec. This swell was generated by Hurricane Gabrielle, which remained well out to sea as it skirted the Bahamas on a northerly track that paralleled the US coast. These long period waves continued to buffet the Outer Banks through the morning of 10 September. The highest measured H,, (Gage 625) of 2.54 m (Tp = 13.47 sec) was recorded at 1108 EST on 9 September. Because the hurricane remained far offshore, neither the atmospheric pressure nor the winds at the FRF were influenced by the storm. 1040 Atmospheric Pressure, mb Gage 616 1010 Se Tasha a ee ee 25 Wind Speed, m/sec Gage 932 20 15 10 5 CY) 1 360. Wind Direction, Deg True N Gage 933 270 180 80 0 —")} 1504 Wave Direction, Deg True N Gage 3511 a Gage Inoperative 30 -30- 35 Wave Height, H,,5.™ Gage 625 24 14 o+ =I 255 Wave Period, Tp. sec Gage 625 204 154 104 s4 0+ = ; 2 Water Level from NGVD, m Gage 1 i 0 we = = a 14 eal T eon baw tana a 0 lai T ay Tpke aee ln 7 3 4 5 6 vf 8 9 10 1 12 SEPTEMBER 1989 Figure 34. Data for 4-10 September 1989 storm 68 21-22 September 1989, Hurricane Hugo (Figure 35 74. Hurricane Hugo made landfall at approximately 2200 EST on 21 September near the city of Charleston, SC, causing tremendous damage to the beaches and coastal towns of South Carolina. Other communities far from the coast were also damaged as the storm traveled well inland before turning north. The FRF, which is approximately 565 km north of Charleston, received only minimal effects from Hugo as the storm's inland path was well west of the area. Waves with H,, exceeding 2 m began arriving at the FRF early on 21 September with the highest H,, (Gage 625) of 2.50 m CT, = 15.06 sec) recorded several hours later at 1408 EST. Maximum onshore (from the northeast) winds exceeded 12 m/sec late on 21 September. Due to the storm's distance, the atmospheric pressure dropped only to 1,011.4 mb early on 22 September. There was no precipitation at the FRF. 10405 Atmospheric Pressure, mb Gage 616 1030 1020 1010. ae ee, Oe ee ew ee 1000 990+ 284 Wind Speed, m/sec Gage 932 204 184 real en ee 5 of i Wind Direction, Deg True N Gage 933 1505 Wave Direction, Deg True N Gage 3511 904 Gage Inoperative 304 -304 4 Wave Height, H,45,™ Gage 625 al 24 Soe 4 o+ = 25-5 Wave Perlod, T,, sec Gage 625 204 Al IN) ei er 1047 —_~_____ 0 o+— 4 25 Water Level from NGVD, m Gage1 1 No Ss ty eh ie Sy RN 1 aaa F = T a = 20 21 22 23 24 SEPTEMBER 1989 Figure 35. Data for 21-22 September 1989 storm 69 23-24 September 1989 (Figure 36) 75. Following the passage of a cold front, strong winds generated by a large high pressure system located over Michigan began to affect the FRF late on 23 September. Maximum wind speeds (from the north-northeast) exceeding 18 m/sec occurred on 23 September at 2200 EST. The maximum H,, (Gage 625) of 27 507 mei e= 7.53 sec) was recorded 2 hr later at 2342 EST. Total precipitation was 6 mm. 1040 Atmospheric Pressure, mb Gage 616 1020 BE en ne 1010 28 Wind Speed, m/sec Gage 932 24 18 104 54 o+ eS 360-5 Wind Direction, Deg True N Gage 933 70 > 90 o+--- = 1507 Wave Directlon, Deg True N Gage 3511 904 Gage Inoperative 30+ -30- 35 Wave Height, Ho. mM Gage 625 24 14 0+ 1 25-5 Wave Perlod, T,,, sec Gage 625 204 15 1 gunmen eer eee, ee 54 0+ om | 2 Water Level from NGVD, m Gage 1 1 ° a) ae T T T 1 22 23 24 25 26 SEPTEMBER 1989 Figure 36. Data for 23-24 September 1989 storm 70 27 September 1989 (Figure 37) 76. Forming off the Georgia coast early on 25 September, this "northeaster" quickly moved up the coast reaching the Maryland shore on 26 September. Peak winds (from the north) exceeded 15 m/sec on 2/7 September at 0434 EST. The maximum H,, (at Gage 625) of 2.39 m (is = 7.76 sec) occurred 4 hr later at 0842 EST. The minimum atmospheric pressure of 1,008.6 mb was recorded on 26 September at 0400 EST. Total precipitation was 54 mm. 1040 Atmospheric Pressure, mb Gage 616 1030 ee 1020 eS a 1010 1000 990 =a 26 Wind Speed, m/sec Gage 932 20 18 10 5 i} 1 360 Wind Direction, Deg True N Gage 933 270 180 90 () 150 Wave Direction, Deg True N Gage 3511 op Gage Inoperative 30 -30 3 Wave Helght, H,,5,™ Gage 625 ceo Re 1 ma, C) 1 28 Wave Perlod, Tp. sec Gage 625 20 15 10 5 t) 1 2 Water Level from NGVD, m Gage 1 1 0 -1 =2 T T a] 26 27 28 29 SEPTEMBER 1989 Figure 37. Data for 27 September 1989 storm Tal 25-26 October 1989 (Figure 38) 77. A strong high pressure system stalled over West Virginia generated winds (from north-northeast) that produced storm waves for 2 days at the FRF. Peak winds of 13 m/sec were recorded early on 24 October with the maximum H,, (Gage 625) of 2.60 m Ge = 12.19 sec) occurring at 2008 EST on 25 October. 1040 Atmospheric Pressure, mb Gage 616 ee 1020 25 Wind Speed, m/sec Gage 932 360-5 Wind Direction, Deg True N Gage 3511 90 -304 34 Wave Height, H,,5,™m Gage 625 24 he ETE a ae oD A od , se ane 255 Wave Period, Tp, sec Gage 625 204 25 Water Level from NGVD, m Gage 1 14 | can aacmatnia aa -1 pa T ilar T a 1 24 25 26 27 28 OCTOBER 1989 Figure 38. Data for 25-26 October 1989 storm 72 23 November 1989 (Figure 39) 78. Developing over Texas early on 22 November, this storm quickly moved to the east, being located off North Carolina on 23 November. Maximum wind speeds (from north-northeast) exceeded 19 m/sec at 0542 EST, on 23 November. Recorded several hours later at 0808 EST, the peak H,, (T, = 6.92 sec) reached 2.32 m (Gage 625). The minimum atmospheric pressure of 1,000.7 mb occurred at 0134 EST, also on 23 November. Total precipitation was 39 mm. 1040 Atmospheric Pressure, mb Gage 616 1030 1020: 1010 1000 990 4 25 Wind Speed, m/sec Gage 932 20 18 10 8 0 er 360 Wind Direction, Deg True N ge 933 0 ee ea! 180 Wave Direction, Deg True N Gage 3511 90 30 -30 3 Wave Helght, H,,,.™ Gage 625 2 Se 1a : o ra 25 Wave Period, T,, sec Gage 625 20 18 10 5 0 1 2 Water Level from NGVD, m Gage 1 1 0 -2 all Sea al 22 23 24 25 NOVEMBER 1989 Figure 39. Data for 23 November 1989 storm 73 8-10 December 1989 (Figure 40) 79. Developing over Alabama early on 8 December, this storm quickly moved to the east, being located off North Carolina on 9 December. Maximum wind speeds (from northeast) exceeded 20 m/sec at 2200 EST on 9 December. Earlier in the day at 0208 EST, the peak H,, (Gage 625) reached 3.05 m (T, = 9.85 sec). The minimum atmospheric pressure of 1,001.9 mb occurred at 2200 EST, also on 9 December. Total precipitation was 56 mn. 1040: Atmospheric Pressure, mb Gage 616 1030 1020 1010: 1000 990 — 25 Wind Speed, m/sec Gage 932 20 18 10 6 0 1 360 Wind Direction, Deg True N Gage 933 270 180 90 ) =) 150 Wave Direction, Deg True N Gage 3511 90 30 -30 8 Wave Helght, H,,5,m Gage 625 4 3 2 SoS el 2 1 _ 0 1 28 Wave Perlod, T,, sec Gage 625 20 15 10 en 5 el ca ee ie ° 1 2 Water Level from NGVD, m Gage 1 1 0 -1 rod a aa LE T q 7 8 9 10 "1 12 DECEMBER 1989 Figure 40. Data for 8-10 December 1989 storm 74 13 December 1989 (Figure 41) 80. Developing in the Gulf of Mexico, this small coastal storm rapidly moved into the Atlantic, being located off Cape Hatteras, NC, on 13 December. Recorded at 0808 EST, the peak wind speed (from north) surpassed 13 m/sec followed at 1334 EST by the maximum H,, (Gage 625) of 2.46 m (T, = 9.48 sec). The minimum atmospheric pressure of 1,002.7 mb occurred at 0400 EST. Total precipitation was 19 mn. 1040 Atmospherlc Pressure, mb Gage 616 Gage 933 Sea _ 150 Wave Directlon, Deg True N Gage 3511 90 30 | 1 -30 3 Wave Helght, H,,,,m Gage 625 2 ee 1 we ae tener — ——— E 0 =) 25 Wave Period, Tp sec Gage 625 20 15 10 7 5 A= 1 2 Water Level from NGVD, m Gage 1 1 0 DECEMBER 1989 Figure 41. Data for 13 December 1989 storm Ue 22 December 1989 (Figure 42) 81. Winds from a strong high pressure system located over the mid- western United States began to generate storm waves at the FRF early on 22 December. The maximum H,, (Gage 111) of 2.31 m (ie = 6.74 sec) was attained at 0208 EST with maximum winds (from north-northwest) of 14 m/sec occurring at 0100 EST. 1040 Atmospheric Pressure, mb Gage 616 28 Wind Speed, m/sec Gage 932 Wind Direction Wave Directlon, Deg True N Gage 3511 SS a 4 Wave Height, H,>5,™ Gage 111 3 2 1 0 25 Wave Period, T,, sec Gage 111 20 15 SLU ic meres eat A lg nae 5 0 2 Water Level from NGVD, m Gage 1 1 ° = a ea = al 2 mr Ca a lm Gono) a) yy CT my ET ay pC ar ae Cov Ra TO | 21 22 23 24 DECEMBER 1989 Figure 42. Data for 22 December 1989 storm 76 23-25 December 1989 (Figure 43) 82. Reinforced by the same mid-western high pressure system that had produced storm waves on 22 December, a storm which developed off the Georgia coast on 23 December quickly intensified into a major blizzard. The storm destroyed several previously damaged oceanfront cottages in the town of Kitty Hawk and produced gale-force winds accompanied by significant quantities of snow. The maximum H,, (Gage 111) of 4.67 m Crs = 10.67 sec) was recorded at 1442 EST on 24 December. Offshore (Gage 630), the H,, reached 5.63 m cr = 11.13 sec) at 1300 EST the same day. Peak winds (from the north) approached 21 m/sec at 0842 EST, also on 24 December. Winds above 10 m/sec were recorded for 39 consecutive hours. Since the center of the storm remained offshore, the atmospheric pressure at the FRF dropped only to 1,012.5 mb at 1142 EST on 24 December. Due to the strong winds, the rain gages failed to collect much of the snowfall. Approximately 20 to 25 cm of snow fell at the FRF with up to 36 cm reported at other locations. 1040 Atmospheric Pressure, mb Gage 616 28 Wind Speed, m/sec Gage 932 5 ° : Wave Direction, Deg True N Gage 3511 : Wave Helght, H,,.,m Gage 630 B otnurae Gage 630 Wave Period, T,, sec 24 25 DECEMBER 1989 Figure 43 Data for 23-25 December 1989 storm Val, REFERENCES Bingham, C., Godfrey, M. D., and Tukey, J. W. 1967. "Modern Techniques of Power Spectrum Estimation," IEEE Trans. Audio Electroacoustics, AU-15, pp 56- 66. Birkemeier, W. A., and Mason, C. 1984. "The CRAB: A Unique Nearshore Surveying Vehicle," Journal of Surveying Engineering, American Society of Civil Engineers, Vol 110, No. l. Field Research Facility. 1989 (Jan-Dec). "Preliminary Data Summary," Monthly Series, Coastal Engineering Research Center, US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station, Vicksburg, MS. Grogg, W. E., Jr. 1986. "Calibration and Stability Characteristics of the Baylor Staff Wave Gage," Miscellaneous Paper CERC-86-7, US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station, Vicksburg, MS. Miller, H. C. 1980. "Instrumentation at CERC'’s Field Research Facility, Duck, North Carolina," CERC Miscellaneous Report 80-8, US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station, Vicksburg, MS. Miller, H. C., Birkemeier, W. A., and DeWall, A. E. 1983. "Effect of the CERC Research Pier on Nearshore Processes," Coastal Structures ‘83, American Society of Civil Engineers, Arlington, VA, pp 769-785. US Department of Commerce. 1987. "Daily Weather Maps," Weekly Series, Washington, DC. Welch, P. D. 1967. "The Use of Fast Fourier Transform for the Estimation of Power Spectra: A Method Based on Time Averaging Over Short Modified Periodograms," IEEE Trans. Audio Electroacoustics, AE-15, pp 70-73. 78 APPENDIX A: SURVEY DATA il Contour diagrams constructed from the bathymetric survey data are presented in this appendix. The profile lines surveyed are identified on each diagram. Contours are in half meters referenced to National Geodetic Vertical Datum (NGVD). The distance offshore is referenced to the Field Research Facility (FRF) monumentation baseline behind the dune. 2. Change in FRF bathymetry diagrams constructed by contouring the dif- ference between two contour diagrams are also presented with contour inter- vals of 0.25 m. Wide contour lines show areas of erosion. Other areas correspond to areas of accretion. Although these change diagrams are based on considerable interpolation of the original survey data, they do facilitate comparison of the contour diagrams. Al (GADN 09 PATIVTEA us ‘edUDISIG ose os9 osy osz os 48!d 4u4 wi ‘eouDIsig (sanojuog wi Gz’) 88 99d 61 eBouls sebupyg WM \ \ syadep) 68 SJBQUINN UIT af!}O4g 68l gel Z8t 981 Sel cel rah) Lgl 8Zl 9Zt vl LZI ogl GSI Gel S6 S38 eye Ll 49 99 v9 co 6S 8S Azenuer cz Aajowdkyaeg Awd ‘LTV eansty Ww ‘aduDISsIg lw ‘aoUuDIsIg A2 lu ‘edUuDIS!IGg ose os9 osy 4®td 4u4 (sanojuog W Gz'0) 6g uO GZ souls seBbupyy (GADN 09 eATIPTOA lu ‘eDUDISIG suadep) 6g Arenigey SJBQUINN 2UlF a|!JOud wo mo © WYO WY we ~ wn O DD — COP OWING sty, (OO ORS own wo © O 0 tz Azqowdkyaeg AYA “ZV OAN3TY lw ‘a0UDISIG osy oo1- ool 002 oo¢ oor 00S -. 009 ood 008 lu ‘aduDISsIGg A3 Ince Y n oO D S ie} uw ‘aoUDISIG A4 600 500 400 lw ‘eduDISIG -100- 450 650 850 Distance, m 50 Distance, m FRF Bathymetry 27 February 89 (depths relative to NGVD) Figure A3. FRF Pier 850 o 0 ry CANS e E TAX, SEM 5 SSS CRA HH g Sar he . 9 ES > mee Hy fa) A 2 nt 6 Qa ° > re) 1) € “ ra ° p f=) = o) @ 4 ee pb oO oi lu ‘a0uDIsIg o n G p a oO SIOQUINN eur] 1JO4g hs : eg a i 1m 7 Coo w ~m COT OEM illest IACOU Tes ath Oa Os Wain) © 0 0 © © 0 0 WO TAMUTLG RRO! TO), CON ACO RSS SL OO) ton, ee PS) ES RS ee I Se Re ee a G S) E ° re) b>) fre} N = > wu b E oO re) G © p 9) S -Q by fy o aa] 12) em S oS BS : 0 2 st (S} ) Oo Oo Oo oO oO Oo Oo oO (=) [o) fo) oO °o oO [o) °o o = oO co2) 00 Ss o wo 7 m9 N Sa i wi ‘aouDIsIq A7 Distance, m FRF Bathymetry 24 May 89 (depths relative to NGVD) Figure A6. (GADN 02 eATQeTOA wi ‘eouDIsIq ose os9 osy osz os 48ld 44 Ww ‘eouDIsiq (sanopuog Wi gz‘Q) 68 ADW ¥Z aouls saBbupug Lh Dp OSS ~ KS sors syjdep) 6g eunr ct AaQowAUQeg AW “{¥ eansTy wi ‘aouDdIsSIq osy 681 gel 281 98l Sel cel esl L8l 002 oo¢ 009 okey 008 006 0001 ooll lu ‘aouDdIsIq A8 15 Jun 89 (0.25 m Contours) FRF Pier > ® 1S) = Va) 2) oO D = Le) tc O Distance, m E 1100 1000 900 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100 SJOQUINN auUly aijoug nm nm Oo ie iol tag! = I 19) | OD: IS 00) @ Oo nnwrtrOonRenM oO WY WY nn ooo oR Roa NRYHMYL FS Sp FS | Oye EOD OD OD CO OO 2 650 850 Distance, m 450 250 ° Ve) ° ° ° ° fo) ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° ° =) ° i) ) ° ° = ° roy re) Nn © re) ~ el N a iii Lu ‘a9UDISIq AQ FRF Bathymetry 26 July 89 (depths relative to NGVD) Figure A8. (GADN 09 eATIPTOA uw ‘aouDd}siq ose oso osy osz os 002 oo¢ eth 4 48!ld 4u4 ° o wo lu ‘eouDISsSIG (sanoyuog W gz"0) 68 IN 92 aouls saBbupyy) ESS syjdep) 6g asn3ny ¢T ArqowAyIeg JY "6V ean3Ty lw ‘aouDIsiq osr NN eur] ef1}04d ool 002 oo¢ oleh 4 006 ootl ooo: lu ‘aduDIsiq A1O (GADN 09 eATqQeTear syjdep) 6g Atequeqdes Z_ AzqowAyIeG Tad ‘“OTV ean3Ty lu ‘aouDIsSIg oss os9 osr osz os 49!d dud (Sanoyuog Wi GZ"0) 68 Bny cl aouls sebupyg lu ‘eduUDISIG !1}O4q !] al Jaquiny eu “n lu faouDIsiq 0s9 ool- ool oo¢ oleh 4 oos ooz 008 006 ooll wi ‘aouDI sig All (GADN 03 eATIeTEI syjdep) 6g Tequeaon T AaQowAyIeg AYA “LIV eansTy W 'edUuDISsIGg lu ‘a80UuDISsSIGg ose os9 osy osz os ose os9 OSr osz os 001- ool1- | | 0 \ 0 oot 3 i} \ 00z \ \ ° Foo \ vt 0 oo¢ x Ng ts : i — ' 00Z2 Ces oo a oye a \ 4ld 44 (eoSage og ® oor 009 \ 3 v OWL 2 -00¥ » : | 008 = ! S) 006 si 00S (sanoyuog Wi Sz") z 68 das ZI ee 5 souls sebubyy) c -009 ool a -006 ooot oot wi ‘aouDIsIq Al2 (CADN 02 eaTIeTer suadep) 6g Aequeoeq / AxjowAyIeG AYA “ZTV ein3ty WW ‘aDUD{SIG oss os9 osy osz os 48!ld 4u4 (sanojuog WwW gz‘0) 68 AON | souls sebupyy WW ‘adUDISIG lu ‘adUD{sIg ool- okey oo¢ OOF oos 009 ood 000! OolL lu ‘aouDIsIg Al3 Hentz) >. «a * a c i a | seca SIR gm denay gs ware igemtnimars st re ‘ a ia 2) ie ad od ~ a a re - by uh a a : . Pe ‘7 r ; 2 se . r r j jor Lares | | es. i po a we at ll rs @ | i] : — ! | : i @ } : — | wet 7 \ ! ae | 4 4 i peag' — wn | ae oon oo i=] 2" et] i | 7 ‘ sella! Uh oe a - i oe i SD Aa ae ae APPENDIX B: WAVE DATA FOR GAGE 630 1. Wave data summaries for Gage 630 are presented for 1989 and for 1980 through 1989 in the following forms: Dative shoo rand.) yi 2. Figure Bl displays the individual wave height and peak spectral wave period values along with the monthly mean values. Joint Distributions of H,, and T, 3. Annual and monthly joint distributions tables are presented in Tables Bl and B2, and data for 1980 through 1989 are in Tables B3 and B4. Each table gives the frequency (in parts per 10,000) for which the wave height and peak period were within the specified intervals; these values can be converted to percentages by dividing by 100. Marginal totals are also included. The row total gives the total number of observations out of 10,000 that fell within each specified peak period interval. The column total gives the number of observations out of 10,000 that fell within each specified wave height interval. Cumulative Distributions of Wave Height 4. Annual and monthly wave height distributions for 1989 are plotted in cumulative form in Figures B2 and B3. Data for 1980 through 1989 are in Figure B4. Peak Spectral Wave Period Distributions 5. Annual and monthly peak wave period, T, , distribution histograms for 1989 are presented in Figures B5 and B6é. Data for 1980 through 1989 are in Figure B/7. Bl Persistence of Wave Heights 6. Table B5 shows the number of times in 1989 when the specified wave height was equaled or exceeded at least once during each day for the duration (consecutive days). Data for 1980 through 1989 are given in Table B6é. An example is shown below: Height Consecutive Day(s) or Longe 1 2) OTE Ress So SU ier i7 NEURONE TO Ahi. Asa MSM Elo my mS 0.5 182) 15 140135: “12 11. 10 9 8 7 1.0 50 34 24 21 18 14 2" 8" 7 3 2 125 G1 19 8 6) a2 1 2.0 22 9 5 fl en5 10m 5 2 3.0 6 1 3-5 1 4.0 This example indicates that wave heights equaled or exceeded 1.0 m 50 times for at least 1 day; 34 times for at least 2 days; 24 times for at least 3 days, etc. Therefore, on 16 occasions the height equaled or exceeded 1.0 m for 1 day exactly (50 - 34 = 16); on 10 occasions for 2 days; on 3 occasions for 3 days, etc. Note that the height exceeded 1 m 50 times for 1 day or longer, while heights exceeded 0.5 m only 18 times for this same duration. This change in durations occurred because the longer durations of lower waves may be interspersed with shorter, but more frequent, intervals of higher waves. For example, one of the times that the wave heights exceeded 0.5 m for 16 days may have represented 3 times the height exceeded 1 m for shorter durations. Spectra 7. Monthly spectra for the offshore Waverider buoy (Gage 630) are presented in Figure B8. The plots show "relative" energy density as a function of wave frequency. These figures summarize the large number of spectra for each month. The figures emphasize the higher energy density associated with storms as well as the general shifts in energy density to different frequencies. As used here, "relative" indicates the spectra have been smoothed by the three-dimensional surface drawing routine. Consequently, extremely high- and low-energy density values are modified to produce a smooth B2 surface. The figures are not intended for quantitative measurements; however, they do provide the energy density as a function of frequency relative to the other spectra for the month. 8. Monthly and annual wave statistics for Gage 630 for 1989 and for 1980 through 1989 are presented in Table B/7. 9. Figure B9 plots monthly time-histories of wave height and period. B3 Wave Height, m Wave Period, sec Year Mean,m JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC Month Year Mean, sec 20.0 —x 1989 8.2 : JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC Month Figure Bl. 1989 daily wave height and period values with monthly means for Gage 630 B4 Table Bl versus T Annual Joint Distribution of H,, : Height, m 0.00 - 0.49 0.50 - 0.99 1.00 - 1.49 5 Om —null99 2.00 - 2.49 2.50 - 2.99 3.00 - 3.49 3550) = 3:99 4.00 - 4.49 4.50 - 4.99 5.00 - Greater Total Annual 1989, Gage 630 Percent Occurrence(X100) of Height and Period Period, sec 25 0=n 03i.0— - %40=), 50> t650=% 70-0 /820=090=4n10. 05 12..0=) 14.05 16..0= epi SO TEI A SOE 29 EEG Oe 7-29 BAG REO RG Sal) E1339 tl 2915 longer: 47 : 31 102 QA 4le 33707 V25l 25 23 55 : Si T88ihe 25804 626i B07) O19 752s 767 1% 5098 125i) y 243 16 ; . 188 368 446 258 180 227 149 70 39 ‘ Bie 188227 149 94 125 78 47 86 8 16 =: 149 31 125 47 23 55 63 : 78 188 485 1300 1723 1284 1535 1457 994 344 588 24 B5 Height, m 0.00 - 0.49 0.50 - 0.99 1.00" =11.49 1.50 - 1.99 2.00 - 2.49 2-50 i=' i299 3.00 - 3.49 Se50h— 3:99 4.00 - 4.49 4.50°- 4.99 5.00 - Greater Total Height, m 0.00 - 0.49 0.50 - 0.99 1.00 - 1.49 1550 - 1.99 2,00 = 2.49 2250) = 72.99 3300) 93249 37 508=93.99 4.00 - 4.49 4.50 - 4.99 5.00 - Greater Total Height, m 0.00 - 0.49 0.50 - 0.99 1.00 - 1.49 1.50 - 1.99 2.00 - 2.49 2250 =—2299 3.00 - 3.49 3.50 - 3.99 4.00 - 4.49 4.50 - 4.99 5.00 - Greater Total Monthly Joint Distribution of H,, Table B2 versus T Pp January 1989, Gag Percent Occurrence (X100) of Peche oe Period Period, sec 2.0- 3.0- 4.0= 5.0- 6. aye La 8.0=)°9.0- 10.0=) 12.0= 14.0= 16./0- E229 13 Oe ARGi L5G EG AGh 729 ie 1BR9Ns LOMO Ge Aue Sele 15.9 Longer Total 83 : j j ; 83 83'' 826: 165 A j 1240 : 165 248% | 248.5) 413°" 248:25 (661 661 248 165 248 3305 ; Soi 7826 579 ene S7 Ome, Soles soll 83. 248 ; 3308 : 165 413 83 248 3 248 83 1240 j 331 ; 248 : ‘ 579 : F 331 331 5 0 0 0} ‘ ‘ Fs 5 F 5 : " 4 3 83 165 579 1239 1736 993 1571 1818 1075 496 248 0 fepcuaty 1989, e 630 Percent Occurrence(X100) of helene and Period Period, sec 2.0= %3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0= 7.0= 8.0= a0 10.0- 12.0- 14.0- 16.0- 2.9 iraek ole) 5.9 6.9 7.9 _8.9 9.9 11.9 13.9 15.9 _Longer Total 95 . 95 286 381 286 190 476 190 ; 1999 190 381 571 571 =286 95 286 476 A 2856 ‘ 190 762 286 286 381 286 286 : 2477 ; 286 286 190 95 95 95 ; 1047 Z 381 95 ‘ : 95 571 5 190 95 c : 95 ; 380 95 95 95 4 95 : é 380 5 : : 95 ‘ 95 95 95 190 ; 5 : ; : J : : % : 5 95 190 666 1905 1905 1428 951 1238 1142 95 380 0 March 1989, Gage 630 Percent Occurrence(X100) of Height and Period er Od ae SscCmaem 220= 30> 40> 25): ee 6. oe ae 8. oe 9. ve 10. Oe We ve 14.0- 16.0- 229 23290 49) 579) 6159) - 7989 11.9 13.9 15.9 _Longer Total : 81 , A 81 : 5 162 325) 732 163 407 1301 569 325 : : 3822 81 325 407 569 407 163 488 : 81 2521 163 488 244 163 325 163 : * 1546 j 163 ‘ 244 163 81 4 81 732 : 81 163 j ; ‘ P : 244 163 ; ‘ 81 : : ; 244 : ‘ 407 : 81 3 488 81 81 , 81 243 : 3 5 5 F ‘ 2 : : : : : 0 0 406 1301 1221 1464 2359 1301 1626 0 324 0 (Continued) B6 (Sheet 1 of 4) Table B2 (Continued) April 1989, Gage 630 Percent Becurrence(x100) of Height and Period Peri sec 2.0= ).3.0-% 4.0-) 5.0-° 6.0=). 7.0-%)8.0=. 9.0- 3» 1020= 12:0= 14.0= 16.0- Height, m CGS 4 Oe OO) elo Oe) moo os lol sagem Se 9! Siltonger 0.00 - 0.49 85 : ; 342 85 B55 7 85 171 , : 0.50 - 0.99 5 85 256 769 684 7Al: 684 1538 171 : 171 1.00 - 1.49 256 256 940 598 256 598 85 5 85 1.50) = 1299 : M7 256; V7 7A 7a 85 5 : 2.00 - 2.49 ‘ 7 é 85 85 2 2.50 - 2:99 : ; ; : 3.00 - 3.49 3.50 - 3.99 4.00 - 4.49 4.50 - 4.99 = : : ‘ : 5 . ‘ 5.00 - Greater i : : : ; $ : ; ; , : B Tota 85 85) 2 S127 538) 12136) 1025) 1367 2477 512 0 256 0 Nay 1989, Gage 630 Percent Occurrence(X100) of Height and Period Teed ee gata oe en en POT OG eS OG niacin 2.0-. 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 12.0- 14.0- 16.0- Height, m CeO) 20) 2429) eo, O) Oe Oe Ot O29) eo WO eo Ole oe oe elionger 0.00 - 0.49 : 164 F 246 164 656 82 82 246 164 0.50 - 0.99 328 410 656 820 1557 656 492 656 492 492 1.00 - 1.49 82 246 164 164 82 656 164 4 y 1.50 - 1.99 F : 82 i : i i 2.00 - 2.49 2.50 - 2.99 3.00 - 3.49 3.50 - 3.99 4.00 - 4.49 4.50 - 4.99 : : F : ‘ : : qi 4 : < 5.00 - Greater : : ; : < ; 5 : : ; : : Total On 328 656 902 1312 1885 1394 1230 902 738 656 0 June 1989, Gage 630 Percent Occurrence(X100) of Height and Period Period, se 2.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 12.0- 14.0- 16.0- Height, m Cera A Ope Gi eO 9) man Oe eon OnG als) mise Ouel Se Onetonger 0.00 - 0.49 ; a) S39) BGS 424s agi 593° 3339 . 85 0.50 - 0.99 339 339 1017 1102 678 1356 1186 169 ‘ 85 1.00 - 1.49 , 169 +169 : : : , ; ; E 1.50 - 1.99 : ; 2.00 - 2.49 2.50 - 2.99 3.00 - 3.49 3:450)=73:599 4.00 - 4.49 pao - 4.99 .00 - Greater Total 0 339 508 1525 1271 1102 2797 1779 508 0 170 0 (Continued) lelolojlolojlololo) (Sheet 2 of 4) B7 Table B2 (Continued) aul 1989, Gage 630 Percent Occurrence(X100) of Hel ght and Period Period, sec 20 eo 0=2 GeO 50-2 e6i a 70=. 820-38 9% We 10.0- 12.0- 14.0- 16.0- Height, m 229) aes Oe Seat MONG Erb 9 2729) Se ee9 11.9 _13.9 _15.9 _Longer Total 0.00 - 0.49 : : 92 92 7 1 459) 459)" 367, ‘ - 3 : 1469 0.50 - 0.99 : 92; 92) (642) 1743". SIF 2842) 734) 86459) 459 642. 183 7247 J00"—. 1.49 5 x 18355 2917 5 4 : 183 Hi : “ 1283 17507 =) 1-99 ‘ ‘ : : 5 5 : : : , 3 ; 0 2.00 - 2.49 0 2.50 - 2.99 0 3.00 - 3.49 0 S25 0h=—23.99 0 4.00 - 4.49 0 4.50 - 4.99 : : ‘ A ; E - s 0 5.00 - Greater ; ; : ‘ : ; : : : ‘ ; F 0 Total 0 92 184 917 2660 1376 1743 1101 642 #459 642 # 183 August 1989, Gage 630 Percent Oeburteace (100) of Height and Period i se 2.0-. 3.0- 4.0- 5.0-."6.0=.°7:30=) 8.0=)'9.0- 910.0= 12.0= 14.-0- 16.0- Height, m 22.9) ME 3ING) BASS GEO G9) 719), BRO ORO MEO) 389 1549) alonger = Total 0.00 - 0.49 3 : ; : : . 446 89 268 : : : 803 0.50 - 0.99 : 89 89 357 1518 1339 1161 1161 1339 BMG 25 j 7678 1.00 - 1.49 : Bee lyk emake amc lsy/ j : ‘ 89 89 89 : 982 1.50 - 1.99 2 ; ». 79 "268 : 3 ; ‘ : 5 ; 447 2.00 - 2.49 ; ; 3 : 89 ; : ; : ‘ ; ; 89 2.50 - 2.99 ; ; : : 3 : : i ; ; : ; 0 3.00 - 3.49 0 3.50 - 3.99 0 4.00 - 4.49 0 4.50 - 4.99 : : : : : ‘ : 0 5.00 - Greater ‘ , : F : F é : 3 : ‘ : 0 Tota 0 89 268 715 2232 1339 1607 1250 1696 89 714 0 September 1989, Gage 630 Percent Occurrence(X100) of Height and Period Period, sec 2.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 12.0- 14.0- 16.0- Height, m 229) Ag 9689) Be FeO Nees 9 lS Oi Ponder Total 0.00 - 0.49 : . : : : u 90 : : ; : : 90 0.50 - 0.99 : 90 . é70) 63) 991% ‘54 3270) “991 ; 90 : 3874 1:00: = 1.49 i ? 90 180 . 270 90 90 180 =180 3 ‘ 1080 1.50 - 1.99 ; ; ». 360° 180) 270°, 180° 180° 9270) 180" 632 90 2341 2.00 - 2.49 : : ? 90 90 180 631 : 90 450 541 : 2072 2.50 - 2.99 ; : : : me 80 90 f A 90 90 3 450 3.00 - 3.49 . : é ‘ 5 90 ‘ . 5 a A 3 90 3.50 - 3.99 ; ; * ; : , ; . ; ; : ; 0 4.00 - 4.49 0 4.50 - 4.99 0 5.00 - Greater : : : : : E : : : 5 3 : 0 Total 0 90 90 900 901 1981 1622 540 1531 900 1352 90 (Continued) (Sheet 3 of 4) B8 Table B2 (Concluded) October 1989, Gage 630 Percent Occurrence(X100) of Height and Period Peri ec 2.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 12.0- 14.0- 16.0- Height, m_ 299 a4 70) 5 Oe GO 709 ego! S929) EE) 13291529) allonger Total 0.00 - 0.49 120 - . een AO tat 20 120 4 : 5 : : 480 0250"="0..99 361 241 Le 8843, (602 0 4 20) vli20) 240 f 2 : 2528 1.00 - 1.49 ; eh 240, 69964") 482) 24 se 12055 120 2 5 ‘ 2168 1250) = 1°99 : : 120 482 WABI 2 Areny23 ego alliniercoloMl : 2770 2.00 - 2.49 : F ne U20epel20n l20wee24y 361k 1205, 120 : : 1202 2.50 - 2.99 : : : : : pe Aca : Pe eiayl ‘ 602 3.00 - 3.49 : ‘ : 3 : 3 : Bee pelo) ; 120 : 240 36.50% -.3).99 A : : 4 . : ; H , i . : 4.00 - 4.49 4.50 - 4.99 ; E j Z i A 5.00 - Greater ‘ F ‘ F ; 2 ‘ : : ; : ; Total 481 241 361 2409 1324 963 722 1565 601 481 842 0 November 1989, Gage 630 Percent Occurrence(X100) of Height and Period Period, sec 2.0=) 3.0= 2420=) Sx0= G20=) 70S 8s0=" 9h 0=2) 0. O=u1 250-5114 0=" 16)0= Height, m PEO) 389) ANG be G) G49) u7e Gs BG) 2 29e9! sagt 813.9 1S.9 konger Total 0.00 - 0.49 206 ; : 5 ; 3 + *:206) (103 x 412 : 927 0.50 - 0.99 103 309 619 825 412 103 309 1546 825 “) 206 : 5257, 1.00 - 1.49 : 2 4125 206.7 (825;'9 206; 2515. 4° 309 =, 206.) :206 : 2885 1.50 - 1.99 : ; > 206 206: (412 5 103 : : : : 927 2.00 - 2.49 f 3 : : : 4 t : f : A 5 2.50 - 2.99 3.00 - 3.49 3.50 - 3.99 4.00 - 4.49 4.50 - 4.99 : : - ; E 5 5 4 { é : 5.00 - Greater 7 : é : . . , : t 5 : : Total 309 309 1031 1237 1443 721 824 2164 928 206 824 0 December 1989, Gage 630 Percent Occurrence(X100) of Height and Period Period, sec 2.0-. 3.0- 4.0- ‘$205 62020 720= 8.0= 9.0= 10.0=012.0- 14.0- 16.0- Height, m 2c QUES 4 OE SG eon Gin Oh OO) AGG. Oh sO 529 eWvonger Total 0.00 - 0.49 : : : : 169 P . 169 169 : : ‘ 507 0.50 - 0.99 Me 50886 S339" 1678r 2 WB: 339) 8339e) (339 = 7508" (339 : 4575 1.00 - 1.49 : om 339) 71695) 1508 : ‘ , : 169 : . 1185 1.50 - 1.99 ‘ : 08H 678 : ; 2 : : 169 ‘ 1355 2.00 - 2.49 F : : Gy As} : } f 5 Wee) : : 847 2.50 - 2.99 : ; ; : é 169 7 : ; 339 ; 508 3.00 - 3.49 : : ; ‘ 5 169 A : F z : : 169 3.50 - 3.99 : : : : ; 5 169 z ; ; i : 169 4.00 - 4.49 : ‘ - i is B69 22y 169" "169 ; 507 4.50 - 4.99 : - : ‘ ; is E i 5 : ‘ t 0 5.00 - Greater ; i i ; j A I 169 i : : 169 Total OF 5086041678) 1355173219. 677.) 508 6770 “338r 7 1015S) 1016 0 (Sheet 4 of 4) B9 Table B3 Annual Joint Distribution of H,, versus T, (All Years) Annual 1980-1989, Gage 630 Percent Occurrence(X100) of Height and Period r ec ; 2.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0-. 10.0- 12.0- 14.0- 16.0- eight, m 2.9 - 3.9) ..4,9) 5,988 6.998 729) 218 ONG Oye) Oigme) SOAS.” altonger: 0.00 - 0.49 30 16 28 66 94 118 93299 278) 47193 LO 1126 3 0.50 - 0.99 38 134 254 512 596 525 849 722 781 149 216 15 1.00 - 1.49 i 9» 140° 398" °450' 264- 239° 203° 339 Acme. 4 15 Ol 99 : ‘ 13575159" 3253" 13 81 76 = 133 36 78 5 2.00 - 2.49 : : 2 25 85 70 57 42 66 32 43 2 2.50 = 2.99 ‘ : , 1 8 33 18 16 37 10 26 : 3.00 - 3.49 1 12 14 13 17 5 ce) 3.50 - 3.99 : 1 6 6 ils} 4 5 4.00 - 4.49 : ‘ : : $ : 2 3 8 2 4 4.50 - 4.99 : ; : ‘ : F : 1 2 A : 5.00 - Greater : : ; : : : if . 1 2 1 ; Total 68 159 437 1161 1487 1136 1596 1360 1590 352 630 29 B10 Table B4 Monthly Joint Distribution of H,, Percent Occurrence versus T, (All Years) January 1980-1989, Gage 630 {x100) of Height and Period Period, sec 2H0=) S30=) 4:50=5 (50-26. 0= 5750-98055 91.05" 10505 12.0= 1470= 16.0- Height, m 239 FeSO AO PASO GAO ee OVeROuO Oa MeO SeOi 529 mullonger Total 0.00 - 0.49 103 9 ; 93 75 37 159 168" (21/5 56 93 1008 0350"=20299 65 2245 252 3555-392" 336m) 1345 514) 3803 > 2 252 3659 1.00 - 1.49 : 19 187 542 560 261 187 196 §=532 28 65 ce) 2586 1.50 - 1.99 4 28) S550 458m 215i, lien 03) 1243 28 56 : 1598 2.00 - 2.49 28 i205» 196" § 112 28) 12 37 28 9 755 2.50 - 2.99 ; 19 75 47 19 15 19 47 ; 301 3.00 - 3.49 i 9 28 9 28 3 74 3.50 - 3.99 : 5 ‘ 0 4.00 - 4.49 3 9 9 4.50 - 4.99 : : i 5 é : : é 9 : : g 5.00 - Greater A , : : . : ; : : ; : ‘ 0 Total 168 252 467 1373 1709 1129 990 1037 2026 289 541 18 February 1980-1989, Gage 630 Percent OccurrencetX100) of Height and Period Period, sec 2.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 12.0- 14.0- 16.0- Height, m 229) S3NOe 2 4e9) SSE OMG OMe Ome Bees ORG Te Oe sree 520! longer Total 0.00 - 0.49 10 ; 10 50 69 50 99 50 59 30 119 ‘ 546 0.50 - 0.99 59 89 178 465 465 248 495 644 1050 20 =129 10 3852 1.00 - 1.49 A 10 119 634 614 238 307 347 574 79 198 : 3120 1.50 - 1.99 10 198 356 198 109 99 208 59 99 1336 2.00 - 2.49 89 149 30 40 79 89 50 109 635 2.50 - 2.99 10 10 50 10 10 109 20 69 288 3.00 - 3.49 ; : 20 10 30 30 20 20 130 Se DON 3.99 : 10 10 10 30 4.00 - 4.49 : 10 40 10 60 4.50 - 4.99 : ; F 7 , : : : : 0 5.00 - Greater : G 5 ; ‘ E 10 : R 3 5 i 10 Total 69 99 317 1446 1663 834 1080 1279 2169 278 763 10 March 1980-1989, Gage 630 Percent Occurrence(X100) of Height and Period Period, sec 20> S02 420-65. 0=) s6502 7 O=aSO-euSVO- Ne lONO=n 20-1 aeo= 1620 Height, m 229 SEO AUG SEO MGN On aes 09s LNORO Mine 1 3e9e 1549 eo longer: Total 0.00 - 0.49 9 : } 18 45 45 80 36 107 54 54 448 0.50 - 0.99 9 BO 205) ASS 473K 419m GOR W749" B12 8134). a6 4104 1.00 - 1.49 : 9 196 401 526 366 294 285 687 54 303 3121 1.50 - 1.99 ; OU 232mm Coole elil6 89 125 241 80 125 1276 2.00 - 2.49 3 18 62 27 89 62552 36 =107 553 2.50 - 2.99 ; 18 18 27 9 54 18 45 189 3.00 - 3.49 ) 18 9 18 54 9 9 126 3.50 - 3.99 ; ; : 18 62 18 98 4.00 - 4.49 : 9 18 18 27 72 4.50 - 4.99 : ‘ ; , : : 18 : ; 18 5.00 - Greater : : : : ; : : : : E : j 0 Total 18 89 410 1124 1392 1009 1204 1320 2205 385 849 0 (Continued) (Sheet 1 of 4) Bll Table B4 (Continued) April 1980-1989, Gage 630 Percent Occurrence(X100) of Height and Period Peri ec 2.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 12.0- 14.0- 16.0- Height, m 229) 223 Oi ea be9) Ube Sa BAG Oe Gee Oia sao alba londen Total 0.00 - 0.49 9 cs) 18 55 37 2h 62930) 8211 2183 92 92 d 1026 0.50 - 0.99 82.7 183) 2668" 430" ) 5225" °476) 6780) 788 1026400256 394 x 5101 1.00 - 1.49 P QP SGT 229; SA30" “348s S210 7, Bcle 2339 55. 147 ; 2318 1 50p=a1299 2 : s 14756 13704 1Oles Oise “119% 2011 27 + 101 E 934 2.00 - 2.49 : : A 37 46 9 55 64 55 27 9 ‘ 302 2250312 .99 ef 3 5 3 9 18 on 18 37, 27 18 ; 154 3.00 - 3.49 3 27 18 27 27 ‘ 2 : 99 3.50 - 3.99 9 y/ 46 4.00 - 4. 4.50 - 4. 5.00 - 50 99 9 . 00 - Greater ; : : : : E : 4 : 5 ; 5 Total 91 201 403 898 1181 1015 1539 1557 1868 484 761 0 May 1980-1989, Gage 630 Percent Occurrence(X100) of Height and Period Period, se 220=— 30=) 450=.95e0=5 (620=) 720-7 980- 9h0= OMOS aeRO a0 60 Height, m 229) 329) S49) 529" = Gi Oe 79 B90) 299) 21 e9¥ S369 5.9) 2konger Total 0.00 - 0.49 ] 18 45 Sl el45y wlosee n47 Uh 2350) e145 45 72 ; 1429 0.50 - 0.99 18.) lf2e, 335n) 6240" 588i, 805e 124 0% 10320 (706 81. 199 4 5800 1.00 - 1.49 : ’ 90h (235; "317" 217 407" 244 T3ly 9 81 : 1917 1 50p=e199 : A 9 45 90 36 0-118 72 109 27 63 : 569 2.00 - 2.49 : : : 18 18 54 ; 36 9 27 27 : 189 2 508=9 2.99 9 9 9 9 9 18 9 : 72 3.00 - 3.49 ; ; ‘ ] 9 : 18 3)508-53.99 ; 4.00 - 4.49 4.50 - 4.99 : ; : é : : : 4 a f 5.00 - Greater ; : ; F 5 A A 5 : : ; i Total 27 190 479 1003 1167 1284 2245 1628 1295 216 460 0 June 1980-1989, Gage 630 Percent Occurrence(X100) of Height and Period Period, sec 2.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6:0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 12.0- 14.0- 16.0- Height, m 229 27329) 429) Seb eo 697s yee BRO I EOF ah O13 39e 1 5295 aonger Total 0.00 - 0.49 29 38 57 «1144 49220) 4383) A727) 8584s) 7220 38 38 : 2478 0.50 - 0.99 AS.) 2497. 3730) (699%; 708e 7275 1617, 928 (5267) 153 38 : 6066 1.00 - 1.49 : ; 86 201 201 172 172 96 96 ; 48 ; 1072 1508 —e1 299 ; ‘ 19 48 67 ys 19 10 67 : 10 : 297 2.00 - 2.49 , F ; : 19 19 38 10 : 3 ‘ : 86 2.50;— 2.99 , ; : ; : ‘ : ; E y i . 3.00 - 3.49 3.50 - 3.99 4.00 - 4.49 4.50 - 4.99 : ; ‘ : 5 : 5.00 - Greater 5 g 3 : ; ; : : $ E : : Total 77 ©6287, =535 10929 1215; 1358 2573 1628) 909) <191 134 0 (Continued) (Sheet 2 of 4) B12 Height, m_ 0.00 - 0.49 0.50 - 0.99 1.00 - 1.49 1.50 - 1.99 2.00 - 2.49 2.50 - 2.99 3.00 - 3.49 3.50 = 3.99 4.00 - 4.49 4.50 - 4.99 5.00 - Greater Total Height, m 0.00 - 0.49 0.50 - 0.99 1.00 - 1.49 1.50 - 1.99 2.00 - 2.49 2.50 - 2.99 3.00 - 3.49 3.50 - 3.99 4.00 - 4.49 4.50 - 4.99 5.00 - Greater Total Height, m 0.00 - 0.49 0.50 - 0.99 1.00 - 1.49 1.50 - 1.99 2.00 - 2.49 2.50 - 2.99 3.00 - 3.49 3.50 - 3.99 4.00 - 4.49 4.50 - 4.99 5.00 - Greater Total Table B4 (Continued) Jul Percent Occurrence 20s 340=% 430=9 (5505 —2.9 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 _9.9 11.9 _13.9 _15.9 _Longer 9 19 57 pe 104 38)) 1324642931) 7.1643 2 19 47 170 : : 47 9 AT ne 1704439744 1973 Percent Occurrence(X100) of Height and Period {x 1980-1989, Gage 630 100) of Height and Period Period, sec G40=., 07.20=,.(840-..,950= 218 303 1041 747 899 795 1466 899 265 00 JO aah 47 nel 38 Oi 19a" 128 ; : 9 1391 1193 2591 1684 10..0=.12),0-. 14. 0=, 16..0= 293 416 19 728 114 246 360 August 1980-1989, Gage 630 Period, sec 20S ee SrOse 405m ros0= (Ante eis inteh Seca Waa) olay is yee Aa) 28 28 66 123 28 940) ¢ 226). 1613 9 151 368 ee 75 19 56 131 443 1198 Percent Occurrence(X100) of Height and Period 650=an770= 160 189 905 829 292 207 151 66 28 9 9 : ; 9 1545 1309 830=_4930= 471 452 1385 829 141 94 28 19 19 : 19 : 9 : : 9 2072 1403 227 132 359 19 76 95 10.0- 12.0- 14.0- 16.0- September 1980-1989, Gage 630 Period, sec 20-5 3:05. 420> 05. 0=5 6-0-9 720, 8120=_9 9:0=410)0=5 12 .0= 14.0=.16..0- 2.9 339). 4.9 beg 6.9 Ts96B59h {G96 1190 1329), 1529p. Longer 9 i) 9 28 28 19 93 299 243 112 93 9 56 168 401 588 570 784 747 1027 Si 233 : 9 84 411 5425 34505 411 205u oS 6) 93 159 9 ‘ 9 140 289 140 93 121 75 28 131 9 F 37 84 56 84 28 75 75 75 : : : 47 28 9 ’ 9 9 9 F 9 9 9 9 ; : 9 9 9 i i ; ; 5 f 9 : 9 74 2700 ¢ LOU 6 153142 11860014934) 1418 77 4een 475). 6 718 27 (Continued) B13 829-929 1]..9:_13..915.9°_ Longer (Sheet 3 of 4) Height, m 0.00 - 0.49 0.50 - 0.99 1.00 - 1.49 150n— 31299 2.00 - 2.49 2.50 - 2.99 3.00 - 3.49 3.50 - 3.99 4.00 - 4.49 4.50 - 4.99 5.00 - Greater Total Height, m 0.00 - 0.49 0.50 - 0.99 1.00 - 1.49 1.50 - 1.99 2.00 - 2.49 2.50 = 2.99 3.00 - 3.49 3.50 - 3.99 4.00 - 4.49 4.50 - 4.99 5.00 - Greater Total Height, m 0.00 - 0.49 0.50 - 0.99 1.00 - 1.49 1.50 - 1.99 2.00 - 2.49 2.50 - 2.99 3.00 - 3.49 3.50 - 3.99 4.00 - 4.49 4.50 - 4.99 5.00 - Greater Total Table B4 (Concluded) October 1980-1989, Gage 630 Percent Occurrence(X100) of Heigh and Period Sees oo Serre tte ste ieee APG POE'S OG Sen hia Sheen ee ee Rett 220-5 3 h0se AO = oO s en tOsOss WiOm OKO 2 Oinias 39 MANO Mia 5 SOW GeO e710 BES 36 : : : 53 7 +196 36 53 134 374 419 348 633 . . 169 624 348 214 = 125 36 214 392 107 89 : 18) 1G 187 71 : 18 116 36 : 36 9 72 53 339 1230 1346 1079 1159 S20= 7 MlONO= 1 2R0 SF I4F O=s16).0= 9.9 11.9 _13.9 _15.9 _Longer 152 241 36-134 455 936 160 294 9 232 ©6428 80 214 Wer 187 WG 223 36 98 143 53 80 9 71 45 9 62 : 18 . 36 18 : 18 ; : 18 5 1142 2016 472 1043 54 November 1980-1989, Gage 630 Percent Occurrence(X100) of Heigh and Period st ee ecient seem PO HOG eS BG th ethan ene eli met tle 220-7 30> 4 0— 5520-7 1600s 70-5 NOn0> pOOs. wlONO= CRO i319 24 Wae 589 1b Ome 729 ea BL Oe Ieee 31 31 31 21 52m 04 el Os a aka 94 42 104 397 595 564 470 459 564 595 : 20% 9282) 53825) (73) 428r5 26 liepscoleuncse : 21 209 334 219 125 73° P15 ; 31 73° 125") 136 42 21 , : 21 10 21 52 ; 21 52 : : ; : 42 73. 156 731 1388 1754 1367 1179 1180 1211 12:..0-14.0--16.0= 13.9 _15.9 _Longer 63-4 219 136-146 52 42 94 31 52 10 10 21 10 : 10 10 10 21 10 355 509 93 December 1980-1989, Gage 630 Percent Occurrence(X100) of Height and Period Period, sec 10.0- 12.0- 14.0- 16.0- 148 307 11 169 296 42 42 137 ll 74 53 63 32 11 11 11 ual 11 ll 220-7 S040 os 0a OsOm a0 OnO mons 2nGivi 329 429 as GeO iei6Oh. 72. 9e RB Oe ROP Oe Geel 3e99) 5. Seallonger: 85 aye 53 74 21 Alay BWAUA) as) AIS) 32 180 243 507 645: 243°. 412 476. 835 : 1595) ca 5Sr e634 307ee e190y PGi soo ti 201.) S29 95 53 42 116 21 a Let al/ 32 53 85 : : 42 ; 21 63 11 74 21 21 , 32 21 32 ; 11 11 : 5 . E : : : 11 117. 212 «487 1237 2072 846 920 994 1670 B14 445 953-53 (Sheet 4 of 4) Height, m 1 7s —— 1989 ] 1980-89 44 3 2 1 0 Ss Tages shal 10 100: 10° 10 10° Percent Greater Than Indicated Figure B2. Annual cumulative wave height distributions for Gage 630 BL5 Height, m NN) uw bh FUERTE ad Vest a a ek) HE ey mr a er WE wae CE _ — Figure B3. 10° 10 10% Percent Greater Than Indicated 1989 monthly wave height distributions for Gage 630 B16 Height, m Figure B4. 10° Percent Greater Than Indicated 1108; 1980-1989 monthly wave height distributions for Gage 630 B17 405 = Gage 630 1989 | Gage 630 1980-89 20-4 7 =| 4 G4 4 OG of ee AA] _.n ABA - 40- _ : ° Gage 111 1989 | Gage 111 1985—89 ; 20-4 =| oO 4 V GZ V / Si __ealal.0_|_..adal2oeo 40- 4 S Gage 625 1989 | Gage 625 1980—89 c 20-44 4 y ee 2 bao. ule | __eadeaddon_!| __.whZlAdon ) eT Gage 645 1989 Gage 645 1980-89 Figure B5. Annual wave period distributions for all gages B18 Frequency of Occurrence, % ie i a evaG Aden. ig Feb | _ AA goee_ on 40> Me Mar ; | | oBagdad_. ie ny bod. May Vyas ; _.aneon_| O 12 14 16 | | | | | Ane. __ eee. A Sep ___ oo Ae Saeed ied. A Figure B6. 1989 monthly wave period distributions for Gage 630 Frequency of Occurrence, % 405 = Jan 4 Jul 20 r ) V, Z | V4 Ap i _aflaoatoo_| _ pA on 1 Feb 1 Aug 20-4 Vy) | Z | CANA, 7 Wa 7 o- __ BAen4o_| __ ABBRAg | Mar Sep = 7 a ara) AAG | etBataZan- __ BAAR Be Apr Oct 205] E o : | 7 | _-andaddGoo_| 00002000 "] May | Nov a Beit | a | pA BZAAd 1 oBABeedon ie Jun ] Dec | ZatA O 12 14 16 Figure B7. 1980-1989 monthly wave period distributions for Gage 630 B20 Table B5 1989 Persistence of H,, for Gage 630 Height Consecutive Da or Longer (m) Lipa Cae 3 14 6 17 18 19+ 0.5 16 15 13 Tt 10.9 S76 0 48 34 22; 118, 112)>".9 (ney ie Lay 2 1 5 34 20 13 9 5 4.3 2 -0 25} 12, (8 5 i | 35 U3. SB a 24en -0 Ti Phi RAO] 5 4) 3, (2 0 4 3 Table B6 1980 through 1989 Persistence of H,, for Gage 630 Height Consecutive Day(s) or Longer (m) caer ener) 9 10 T2013 (14 Bel Sel 6 al 729181 Ot 0.5 21 1816) 15 14 12 #11 10 Oe 7 Gun Ownl 4 1.0 50 33 24 18 14 10 8 5 4 3 2 1 1.5 SO 21 el eGo 2 1 2.0 22 leone, 1 2.5 ee Sere 3.0 Cr 2omet 3.5 et al 4.0 1 B21 RELATIVE ENERGY DENSITY RELATIVE ENERGY DENSITY IK % ve LN RL Nt S rd Ll RUT : ) He iss Se My Eee i vi i EY, SN ' OS Mn REA, 7 7 6 5 <2 YU SZ SESE Lhe 4 SoS LOS [) Eze SESS LISS Se FOE LLLLITIS REF 2 ee is ay SL» hg PRET LITT 8 53 SESSS LEO = yy, ose 295522 SLPS ESSE 7] Z22/ LI KOSS ELIS 48 a) Ce LEZ LES TTR dy, LI CPS SSSO SSS ESE SESS SOS SS [7 Sel 2% 7S ose SLED SG ESL SS Se L777 LOS LESSEE Sees SZ ae warns an LCL \\ eT] IC iL EET oer AL 22 Zo LOSS o inn aa ZO Zo C22 0 FAW NLT | ZS DA] Wagga een owaeenrd ape Lr SSSeesS 22D [TPS PRI EEO 217 eS607> os oo L> Le? 53552277 Figure B8. 1989 monthly spectra for Gage 630 (Sheet 1 of 6) B22 NSITY ATIVE ENERGY DEI REL LD S22 SSZS SSea2 L225 SSSSSSS 2552 oSEES SSSe SESSSS SESS SSSSSSSSS Szs SS L<> oe ‘ SAA || \ xe >, SoZ Soe Ze Maggs SS L2 ozo 2 SLI 72S PSI Loe LZ SSSOSSES Ne SEs S22> 25 rar So SeeeeeS S2735S sz SIPS 233 (} LoS 4 K) SOLES = SSSESSE SEES oo XY, . SSeS ease ii ERIS = f} if LO FEE LL? SSSSOS SOS SSS ess SLOSS S227 PSS Sool SLOSS 6) (Sheet 2 of B23 NSITY ATIVE ENERGY DE REL ; i NSITY TIVE ENERGY DE, RELA a aaa SESSEEISS See SS ZS PSE [Ss LILI eee wl SERIES SS Se ef c2sS = eee ee 5229 SSSI ISS DN ee SSE Ue 3 SSIES Cha ge Loses 7 IML EPISS Sis OS OT} SFOS —- SSSI SST) L >< EEE £8 (5 SS Ly VY S " Nae Sonus Wak SNS \) y ‘ \) SSS SL S22 SSZSS SSoeSS eeceeee SLITS See oT SS SES Ss ro EE SOL OSSS8 SSIOSSS Sseess SS eess SSzZ5 < Secosoorossoes SSeeS ria a2 5tS5 S22 LESSSS EO SSZSS S25 SSSSSSS 3 (oo SSSessee o2 So SESS Seer Sees QOSOI SEES 2 SSSESSES, 2SS 25S Ze Sees SFO SEESE SSIS we, LL75 SSoze SZ ESL Sc 7 <7 ae SSSe eee oeee SZSS 1 SSSSSSS Sco Sess Soo So2zeS ee SSeeseeerees aera Se Reeeenreers SS SESSSSS iad REL SS ESS seSSe Ys SZ Lar SSeS LT erage f} ROKSL SSELIISS rae // S2FS 7 Looe] l) LESSSSEC SS SEALS, TSS25 o25 age See SSeesse LESS 35 KS EEE 6) of Ee (Sheet 3 Figure B24 NSITY LATIVE ENERGY DE RE vez SITY GY DEN 'E ENER RELATIV. * Me Sez Wags a ISS wr Le LETS TEESE LEFSSSES SEIS E SS Kee EE SSSOSSSSS 8 oS SA RS Big 2552 2 (>S<> SLES — SSESSSSSSS SoS SETA Roos 7 eS Receseees sees SSSeeses SSS SESS Ks = = Np SSSsosee ard SLT TTF gga Se SSE «) Se PSS eeeeoeeees LEE LALLY OAL ai Lo PSSSSEe sesso 2 2 SSeeeee iI Lehre sesseeane SE SSSSESOO Sop SEE PL ES SALTS SL OSFF SSZ25 Lo? SSsesssse reS2 SS25S SSLEESS SScez ets LoS? LZ2 A, TOSSES Soe SESS ESS SSSSS Zoses 282 ZS LL L258 SoD SLES a SoS 23 — SSO 2 eee {6 77 3S 25S ss Sse SE re? SE 1 be Resees 233 SESS Sees see SESS 3 <7 ES SS oS SEES OO Ss { SE [} Mh, Le 10 J L a s2 PoeSeSe Sc Sees 2o> Ze S32 g SPSL) SEEPS oe See FESSSS SSSSSSSEEO 0.05 +10 0.15 0 0.25 0.30 0.35 REQUENGy z 0.05 Seeez SSSeSS ie, SSeesss EEG SSSS re ea SoS Se SSS2zS oq on a SZes 2 XS — S22 Soz3 ES SSS oS = SE 7] Keeesss Kees ELSS Sooo r SSSSSR LZ SCOSSe “ oS SeseSlL 2279 ZS (aig areca S255 SSS Oer> GIRS Sees Zo? ELI TS >= EST UTES > Figure B8. (Sheet 4 of 6) B25 RELATIVE ENERGY DENSITY ab] 10 RELATIVE ENERGY DENSITY S2 Sa SESS SESSEOSES oP ra rae Sosseeesse Seeooroed Soe] ROIS LISI Vary gw = ar A Ma \) h AK) Nh W7 ml hee NN ANY Mh \ NNN bh KAY Nive Aa aN ~~, NY) SEY M\ N AY) hy WY) {Same Sait Ts 2 — = R h A Ne iS p : ‘anit aan LAI Sc Ny : y LTT [TUT TEEEEEELETLL! ; Vee a 2 ae Q Zz Il Crap is NNN NTE DU) ey 522 5 io Nhe saa yA /) SL eee ea LSS<2 Za LS a eessessez SESS HK 22 D) Mi LFS < NESSES EIA LILO ISES IE T LSSZIS SS 2255S LL/ SS Ma OPTS SOO 3 SEES DOLL [TRELLIS PSS SeesseeS ASE SLOT TT II SELL] oL75 CLOTS ESS SSS COS 22 SSS 624 22> PSS eso 2 L” il 1 SESEEESEESS Soeeese SEES OL AL OTT I rae sooo! 98 sess 0 oe 207 Figure B8. (Sheet 6 of 6) B27 Table B7 Wave Statistics for Gage 630 9 -1989 Height Period Height Period Std. Std. Std. Std. Mean Dev. Extreme Mean Dev. Number Mean Dev. Extreme Mean Dev. Number Month mm __m__ Date sec_ sec_ Obs. .™m_ m _ __m__ Date sec_ sec_ _Obs._ Jan 1-2) 0:6 2.9 23 8.2 2.6 121 1.2 0.7 4.5 1983 8.0 2.8 1071 Feb Usa 039 4.3 24 7.6 2.3 105 1.2 0.7 5.1 1987 8.4 2.6 1010 Mar 1-5) 1:0 4.2 7 652" 251 123 1.2 0.7 4.7 1983 8.6 2.6 1121 Apr 120), 025 2.3 15 7.7 2.0 117 1.1 0.6 5.2 1988 8.6 2.7 1092 May 0.8 0.3 1.8 28 8.4 3.1 122 0.9 0.5 3.3 1986 8.1 2.4 1105 Jun 0°65" 0:2 1.1 29 7.6 2.0 118 0.7 0.4 2.4 1988 7.7 2.2 1045 Jul 0.8 0.3 1.4 29 8.5 2.9 109 0.7 0.3 2.1 1985 8.1 235 ‘1057 Aug 0.9 0.4 2.1 8 8.4 2.2 112 0.8 0.5 3.6 1981 8.0 2.4 1061 Sep 15a 0067, 3.0 24 9.6 3.2 111 1.1.0.6 6.1 1985 8.6 2.7 1071 Oct beste pr > (YG 7/ 3.1 26 7.7 2.9 83 1.2 0.7 4.3 1982 (8:37) -238 1122 Nov 1.0 0.4 1.9 21 8.0 3.0 97 1.1 0.6 4.1 1981 7.9 2.8 958 Dec oy ase 5.6 24 8.1 3.3 59 1.2 0.8 5.6 1980 8.3 3.0 946 Annual 1.1 «6057, 5.6 Dec B52) 02670 1277 1.0 0.6 6.1 Sep 1985 8.3 2.6 12659 B28 Height, m On FON FF OND FON SF ON FON FF Period, sec = N = i) o oo coc 38O o 20 1 1 3 5 7 9 11.1315 17 192123252729 1°35 5 7 9 11 13 15 17 192123 25 27 29 31 Day of the Month 35 7 9 1113 15 1719 2123252729 1 3 5 7 9 1113 15 17 19 2123 25 27 29 31 Day of the Month ‘Figure B9. Time-histories of wave height and period for Gage 630 B29 7 Tiel ® ae ; cee A (—— | pho ia 7 y i — i marinas igen AP NPE eae 4 ; a ire eS a jhe hg we tn a ae Lai sh mi fy i n sins oR sa sare poy Sts 2 oaarer nT) ee i : at f mil A.e = yard ny xr 4 i ms? i ney 46) cen fl ae 7 res | ; vor a7 nav A -~ @ ® -_ 7 of ne \ oat : i , J —_ iy! i i ae oe 4 —— == soeoet ieee eee tee lee | 42 27 ax! gn ty 24 @!) 8. AS iit o Were! *6 vod. ‘af : é =e - hal, «eh — a ‘ a, 9 em” Aa se ies areata ieee La ee | t wat | - Lay “i re | bone oe | AN =, x i a Tage apa fy ; To 4 1 nl — x SS ee ee Bk nen ott ee cam aaa pee! —nrenart nt i pis - : dv \ i a 7 oo rd p — toG i ; a | Zs ; af" ne J — f a - —— a i Maps Pe rk pe yp rer ae Sn ee ieee Aa eat OLE a a BN PR ur &h ot Atnol aft te yoo als Dre tiga sash Sn 7 Teaaged wat. as