US Army Corps of Engineers US. Mere Or cl@- Ca ela Mende Ces SuO 4 Same May 966 TECHNICAL REPORT CERC-86-5 ANNUAL DATA SUMMARY FOR 1982 CERC FIELD RESEARCH FACILITY by Herman C. Miller, Michael W. Leffler, William E. Grogg, Jr., Stephen C. Wheeler, C. Ray Townsend III Coastal Engineering Research Center DEPARTMENT OF THE ARMY Waterways Experiment Station, Corps of Engineers 39180-0631 PO Box 631, Vicksburg, Mississippi May 1986 Final Report Approved For Public Release; Distribution Unlimited DOCUMENT LIBRARY Woods Hole Oceanographic institution Prepared for DEPARTMENT OF THE ARMY US Army Corps of Engineers Washington, DC 20314-1000 Destroy this report when no longer needed. Do not return it to the originator. The findings in this report are not to be construed as an official Department of the Army position unless so designated by other authorized documents. The contents of this report are not to be used for advertising, publication, or promotional purposes. Citation of trade names does not constitute an official endorsement or approval of the use of such commercial products. 0 0301 0041252 3 MBL/WHOI Unclassified SECURITY CLASSIFICATION OF THIS PAGE (When Data Entered) READ INSTRUCTI REPORT DOCUMENTATION PAGE 1. REPORT NUMBER 2. GOVT ACCESSION NO 3. RECIPIENT’S CATALOG NUMBER 5 4. TITLE (and Subtitle) . TYPE OF REPORT & PERIOD COVERED ANNUAL DATA SUMMARY FOR 1982, CERC FIELD RESEARCH FACILITY Final report 6. PERFORMING ORG. REPORT NUMBER ,7. AUTHOR(e) 8. CONTRACT OR GRANT NUMGER(a) Herman C. Miller, Michael W. Leffler, William E. Grogg, Jr., Stephen C. Wheeler, and C. Ray Townsend III 9. PERFORMING ORGANIZATION NAME AND ADORESS US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station Coastal Engineering Research Center PO Box 631, Vicksburg, Mississippi 1t. CONTROLLING OFFICE NAME AND AOORESS DEPARTMENT OF THE ARMY US Army Corps of Engineers Washington, DC 20314-1000 4. MONITORING AGENCY NAME & AODORESS(If different from Controlling Office) 10. PROGRAM ELEMENT. PROJECT, TASK AREA & WORK UNIT NUMBERS Waves and Coastal Flooding Program 12. REPORT OATE May 1986 13. NUMBER OF PAGES ; 257 1S. SECURITY CLASS. (of thio report) 39180-0631 Unclassified 1Se. DECLASSIFICATION/ DOWNGRA SCHEOULE Stan 16. DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT (of thie Report) Approved for public release; distribution unlimited. 17. DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT (of the abatract entered in Block 20, If different from Report) 18. SUPPLEMENTARY NOTES Available from National Technical Information Service, 5285 Port Royal Road, Springfield, Virginia 22161. 19. KEY WORDS (Continue on reverse side !{ necessary and identify by block number) Meteorological research--statistics (LC) Oceanographic research--statistics (LC) Oceanographic research stations--North Carolina--Duck (LC) Water waves--statisties (LC) 20 ABSTRACT (Camtinue am reverse oidp |f receceary amd identify by block number) This report provides basic data and summaries for the measurements made during 1982 at the US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station (WES) Coastal Engineering Research Center's (CERC's) Field Research Facility (FRF) in Duck, North Carolina. The report includes comparisons of the present year's data to those of prior years and cumulative statistics from 1980 to the present. (Continued ) FORD DD jan 7s 1473 cornom oF ) wov 651s OBSOLETE Unclassified ee SECURITY CLASSIFICATION GF THIS PASE (When Data Entered) Unclassified SECURITY CLASSIFICATION OF THIS PAGE(When Data Entered) 20. ABSTRACT (Continued). Summarized in this report are meteorological and oceanographic data, monthly bathymetric survey results, samples of quarterly aerial photography, and descriptions and hourly data for 16 storms that occurred during the year. The report is the fourth in a series of annual summaries of data collected at the FRF; the first, which summarized data collected during 1977-79, was pub- lished as CERC Miscellaneous Paper 82-16; the second, which summarized data col- lected during 1980, was published as CERC Technical Report 84-1; and the third, which summarized data collected during 1981, was published as CERC Technical Report 85-3. These reports are available from the WES Technical Report Distri- bution Section, Vicksburg, Mississippi. Unclassified SECURITY CLASSIFICATION OF THIS PAGE(When Data Entered) PREFACE Data and data summaries presented herein were collected during 1982 and compiled at the US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station (WES) Coastal Engineering Research Center's (CERC's) Field Research Facility (FRF) in Duck, N. C. This report is the fourth in a series of annual FRF data summaries carried out under CERC's Waves and Coastal Flooding Program. The report was prepared by Mr. Herman C. Miller, oceanographer, under direct supervision of Mr. Curtis Mason, Chief, FRF Group, Engineering Devel- opment Division. Mr. Michael W. Leffler, Civil Engineering Technician, as- sisted with data collection and analysis; Mr. William E. Grogg, Jr., Elec- tronics Technician, assisted with instrumentation; and Mr. Stephen C. Wheeler, Computer Specialist and Mr. C. Ray Townsend III, Amphibious Vehicle Operator, assisted with data collection. This report was prepared under general supervision of Dr. James R. Houston, Chief, CERC; Mr. Charles C. Calhoun, Jr., Assistant Chief, CERC; and Mr. Thomas W. Richardson, Chief, Engineering Development Division. The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration/National Ocean Services maintained the tide gage and provided tide statistics for summariza- tion. Special thanks are extended to Mr. Robert T. Battalio and Ms. Susan C. Scott who spent many hours at the computer terminals reducing the data. This report was edited by Ms. Shirley A. J. Hanshaw, Publications and Graphic Arts Division, WES. Director of WES during the publication of this report was COL Allen F. Grum, USA; Dr. Robert W. Whalin was Technical Director. CONTENTS Page PREFACE is fe ccete jena ccs chseecirepe te ReSes vette tesa Lae Res RS LPR Mea sites FIRES romraeteices otetenen tetera 1 LEST ORs TABLES 2 .crece otk rece re. cate le relairew ooh terete obelie--olteRcheth betel Ue ceecuellevemene debe stlcrotemtetene 3 EPST HOF: FIGURES es ee eee Te ee vaivatio tetas eteaieine. colts: ol iclesitouecliacerevieiiel che tometreiten Semen tene 4 CONVERSION FACTORS, NON-SI TO SI (METRIC) UNITS OF MEASUREMENT.......... 8 PART a: INTRODUGTRON Heise ratebere eke ek eRe eee ieee aie 9 PART II: CLIMATOLOGICAL wSUMMARY s 5:2c5c5: see se.cP2hk cree cehiats Taree etic lowe Robie s natieleCetentetian Sete 12 GU ima Crees Rc rere SS abs we atten Samus an eee Molin Gohiegies srotieuetrencefeltero ieiebel onemoneu eect eNenrs 12 WAVES) sroncveotuese cio cermin lretteiere Kenia coro repretowenrence oMomewenlstehopeneMemoohensewon mee oie oirshonsiochon Mencia: 12 Neairshore? Currentsia< orcc acces. wcceleseiie tate tenerceitercove) lone eiran emai eel cueuedees ouartente: foneitetevaue 13 Tides, and Water: WevieliSu..\. cvdo.cetd-« whalers eleva rates okelenocehetetous bemeueustebey ce ue ry susv eee StOnmmaacamsOnece Ap iciulonl OG OOnc rermuee ras ciaceeas susie ele nelareoheieien-ceiceern cneceeneys Stormudata, “Lore 2aMay 1962 ome eee ote ano Malet bs a aaieeaerste Setehe « Strormedaical hOmeeO TAURUS tam OOCr yep etce ce ueichelocsys wiieyst susyayraters sia, aiexorre cy syaelonens eis StonmmdacamnOnEcs=eomOCLODerElO OC mer mcr tren nie aeiecaione cieicnen-reeoie Stormuadatamkorn>=ComNOVEMbeI | GOC as ie scission sicie ele ere citron sire er ai etiete Stormedataproru Ga Decemberre a9 Oem ci cusns seis ce ses crs aes ere cele eho towers ae heitchae okene Stormedatal tonal December GS2e ye aemtic esis oc cnruey erect ens arene reas erases Storm datay tores/-9eDecember™= 962s nice dee ee il meiio re oieret CONVERSION FACTORS, NON-SI TO SI (METRIC) UNITS OF MEASUREMENT Non-SI units of measurement used in this report can be converted to SI (metric) units as follows: Multiply By To Obtain acres 0.4046873 hectares feet 0.3048 metres inches 2.54 centimetres millibars 100.0 pascals ANNUAL DATA SUMMARY FOR 1982 CERC FIELD RESEARCH FACILITY PART I: INTRODUCTION 1. The US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station (WES) Coastal En- gineering Research Center's (CERC's) Field Research Facility (FRF) located on 176 acres* at Duck, N. C. (Figure 1), consists of a 561-m-long research pier and accompanying office and field support buildings. The FRF is located near the middle of Currituck Spit along a 100-km unbroken stretch of shoreline ex- tending south from Rudee Inlet, Va., to Oregon Inlet, N. C. It is bordered by the Atlantic Ocean to the east and Currituck Sound to the west. The Facility is designed to (a) provide a rigid platform from which waves, currents, water levels, and bottom elevations can be measured, especially during severe storms; (b) provide CERC with field experience and data to complement labora- tory and analytical studies and numerical models; (c) provide a manned field facility for testing new instrumentation; and (d) serve as a permanent field base of operations for physical and biological studies of the site and adja- cent region. 2. The research pier is a reinforced concrete structure supported on 0.9-m-diam steel piles spaced 12.2 m apart along the pier's length and 4.6 m apart across the width. The piles are embedded approximately 20 m below the ocean bottom. The pier deck is 6.1 m wide and extends from behind the dune line to about the 6-m water depth contour at a height of 7.8 m above National Geodetic Vertical Datum (NGVD). The pilings are protected against sand abra- sion by concrete erosion collars and against corrosion by a cathodic system. 3. An FRF Measurements and Analysis (FRFMA) program has been estab- lished to collect basic oceanographic and meteorological data at the site, re- duce and analyze these data, and publish the results. 4, This report, the fourth in a series of annual reports, summarizes the data collected during 1982. Data for 1977-79 are summarized in Miller (1982), for 1980 in Miller (1984), and for 1981 in Miller, et al. (1985). De- scriptions of the instrumentation, including sensor calibration and mainte- nance (Part III) and data collection and analysis procedures (Part IV) * A table of factors for converting non-SI units of measurement to SI (metric) units is presented on page 8. Ayuyi904 youpesay play . deul uoTqe00T aya *| aun3ty og O2 Ol ‘\ at WNITOUVI HLYON Y= vintouta. MuZS.S0.SL Ni 9VS.0T.9€ - ALINDVI HOWVISIY C1319 \. 0 1 precede reporting of the data (Part V). Appendixes A-D present, respectively, the following material: Waverider buoy maintenance and calibration information, wave data, survey data, and storm data. Although this is intended as a stand-alone document, details for some procedures and instrumen- tation are given in the references. 5. Future annual reports will have approximately the same format. Readers' comments on the format and usefulness of the data presented are encouraged. 6. In addition to the annual reports, monthly data reports summarizing the same types of data shortly after they are collected are available from: Chief CERC Field Research Facility SR Box 271 Kitty Hawk, North Carolina 27949 7. The CERC Coastal Engineering Information and Analysis Center (CEIAC) is responsible for storing and disseminating most of the data presented or al- luded to in this report. All data requests should be in writing and addressed cols Commander and Director US Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station ATTN: CEIAC PO Box 631 Vicksburg, Mississippi 39180-0631 Tidal data other than the summaries in this report should be obtained directly from: Tide Analysis Branch National Ocean Services Rockville, Maryland 20850 A complete explanation of the exact data desired for specific dates or times will expedite filling any request; an explanation of how the data will be used will help CEIAC or National Ocean Services (NOS) determine if other relevant data are available. For information regarding the availability of data, con- tact CEIAC at (601) 634-2017. Costs for collecting, copying, and mailing will be borne by the requester. PART II: CLIMATOLOGICAL SUMMARY Climate 8. The FRF enjoys a typical marine climate which moderates the ex- tremes of both summer and winter. During the warmest month, July, the daily highest temperature averages 30° C. Ocean water surface temperatures tend to be lowest in January and February, averaging less than 5° C, and highest dur- ing August and September, averaging over 2OmIGe 9. Precipitation is generally well distributed throughout the year, averaging 1,035 mm annually. Precipitation from midlatitude cyclones predom- inates in the winter, while local convection (thunderstorms) accounts for most of the summer rainfall. 10. Winds at the FRF are dominated by tropical air masses which create low to moderate warm southern breezes, arctic air masses which produce cold winds from northerly directions, and smaller scale cyclonic low pressure sys- tems which originate either in the tropics (and move north along the coast) or inland (and move eastward offshore). The dominant wind direction changes with season, being generally from northern directions in the fall and winter and from southern directions in the spring and summer. The annual resultant wind direction is from the northwest. It is common for fall and winter storms (northeasters) to produce winds with average speeds in excess of 15 m/sec. Although the portion of the North Carolina coast in the vicinity of the FRF experiences a fairly low frequency of occurrence of direct hurricane strikes (on the average of once every 42 years), more frequent near-misses can cause high wave conditions at the FRF. Waves 11. Wave directions at the FRF, as with winds, are seasonally distrib- uted. Waves tend to approach most frequently from north of the pier in the fall and winter and south of the pier in the summer; whereas, annually they are evenly distributed between north and south. Storm waves, however, ap- proach two-to-one more frequently from the north. 12. The annual mean significant wave height (measured at the seaward end of the FRF pier) is 0.9 m, with a standard deviation of 0.6 m. Wave heights in excess of 2 m can be expected to occur 7 percent of the time or 600 hr per year. 13. Wave periods generally vary between 6 and 12 sec. The annual mean peak spectral period is 8.5 sec with a standard deviation of 2.9 sec. Wave periods tend to be longest during the fall and shortest during the summer. Nearshore Currents 14. Surface current speed and direction at the FRF are influenced by Winds, waves, and, indirectly, bottom topography. The extent of the respec- tive influence varies daily. However, winds tend to dominate the currents at the seaward end of the pier, while waves dominate within the surf zone. The effect of the bottom topography is such that, under certain conditions (e.g., near shore-normal wave angles), rip currents develop which interrupt the gen- eral flow of the alongshore current. A trough located under the seaward half of the pier is a preferred location for such currents. Longshore currents tend to be directed southward during the fall and winter and northward during the spring and summer. Tides and Water Levels 15. Ocean tides at the FRF occur in the usual semidiurnal pattern with a range of 1.0 m. Highest water levels generally are associated with strong and persistent onshore winds and high waves. Storm surges have resulted in a maximum 1.5-m water level (NGVD). Water levels in Currituck Sound are wind- dominated rather than tidal, being low when winds are northeasterly and high When they are southwesterly. Bathymetry 16. Nearshore bathymetry at the FRF is characterized by regular shore- parallel contours, a moderate slope, and a single bar with a second, smaller, nearshore bar occasionally appearing. This pattern is interrupted in the im- mediate vicinity of the pier where a trough runs under much of the pier ending in a scour hole (with depths up to 3.0 m greater than the adjacent bottom) at the pier end. Sediment Size 17. Across the dune and beach face, sediments are generally medium sized and moderate to well sorted. At the beach step, sizes are very coarse and moderate to poorly sorted; and offshore, the sediments are increasingly fine and well sorted. PART III: INSTRUMENTATION 18. This section identifies the instruments used for monitoring oceano- graphic and meteorological conditions and briefly describes their design, op- eration, and location. More detailed explanations of the instruments may be found in Miller (1980). Equipment used for other types of data collection, such as the surveying system, is not generally discussed; however, references are provided in Part IV. Wave Gages Baylor wave staff gages 19. Two parallel cable inductance wave gages, manufactured by the Baylor Company, Houston, Tex., are mounted on the FRF pier: gage 615 (sta 6+20) and gage 625 (sta 19+00) (Figure 2). These gages are rugged and reliable; and they require little maintenance, except to keep tension on the cables and remove any material which may cause an electrical short between them. They are calibrated prior to installation by placing an electrical short between the two cables, at known distances along each, and by noting the voltage output. Electronic signal conditioning amplifiers are used to ensure that the output signals from the gages are within a O- to 5-V range. Gage accuracy is about 1 percent, with a 0.1 percent full scale resolution. These gages are susceptible to lightning damage, but protective measures have been taken to minimize such occurrences. Waverider buoy wave gages 20. Two Waverider buoy gages (610 and 620) were positioned offshore at 0.6 and 3 km, respectively, from the monumentation baseline (Figure 2). These gages, manufactured by the Datawell Laboratory for Instrumentation, Haarlem, The Netherlands, measure the vertical acceleration produced by the passage of a wave. The signal is doubly integrated to produce a displacement signal which is transmitted by radio to an onshore receiver. The manufacturer states that wave amplitudes are correct to within 3 percent of their actual value for wave frequencies between 0.0654 and 0.5 Hz (15- to 2-sec wave periods). However, calibration curves for buoys used at the FRF indicate that the wave heights reported in the results section of this report for wave periods less than 15 sec average about 7 percent less than actual values. For wave periods 15 WAVERIDER BUOY NO. 610 BAYLOR GAGE| NO 625 oe TIDE GAGERN NO 865-1370 ) WVAVERIDER BUOY S| 3 KM OFFSHORE NO, 620 Figure 2. FRF gage locations in excess of 15 sec, this error increases with wave period. The manufacturer specifies that the error can increase to 10 percent for wave periods in excess of 20 sec. Calibration results show errors as large as 15 percent are pos- sible for the very long wave periods. The buoys were calibrated without the mooring system used during deployment, which may introduce additional errors 16 of unknown magnitude. However, a comparison of the buoy located at 0.6 km to the Baylor staff wave gage at the seaward end of the pier (approximately the same distance offshore) showed very good agreement. For most engineering applications, a 7 percent error is tolerable; however, a correction procedure is described in Appendix A which will allow the calibration error to be improved up to 4 percent. Tide Gage 21. Water level data were obtained from a National Oceanographic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA)/NOS control tide station (No. 865-1370), located at the seaward end of the research pier, using a digital tide gage manufactured by Leupold and Stevens, Inc., Beaverton, Oregon. The Leupold- Stevens analog-to-digital recorder is a float-activated, negator-spring, counterpoised instrument that mechanically converts the vertical motion of a float into a coded, punched paper tape record. The below-deck installation at pier sta 19+60 (Figure 2) consisted of a 30.5-cm-diam stilling well with a 2.5-cm orifice and a 21.6-cm-diam float. 22. This tide gage was checked daily for proper operation of the punch mechanism and accuracy of the time and water level information. The accuracy was determined by comparing the gage level reading to a level read from a ref- erence electric tape gage. Once a week, a heavy metal rod was lowered down the stilling well and through the orifice to ensure free flow of water into the well. During the summer months when biological growth was most severe, divers inspected and cleaned the orifice opening as required. 23. Quarterly, a NOAA/NOS tide field group, which consisted of NOS per- sonnel familiar with the installation and equipment, performed a tide station inspection and review. The tide gage elevation was checked using existing NOS control positions, and the equipment was checked and adjusted as needed. NOS and FRF personnel also reviewed procedures for tending the gage and handling the data. Any specific comments on the previous months of data were discussed to ensure data accuracy. Meteorological Instruments Anemometer 24. Prior to 30 March 1982, winds were measured using a NOAA/National Weather Service (NWS) Model F420C anemometer consisting of a cup rotor and spread-tail wind vane located on the top of the laboratory building at an elevation of 19.1 m (Figure 2). The accuracy of the speed transmitter and in- dicator assemblies was 1 percent up to 100 m/sec and 2 percent over 100 m/sec. The wind direction transmitter and indicator assemblies were accurate to +5 deg at an air speed of 0.26 m/sec or greater. 25. The wind speed and direction were recorded on a battery-powered Esterline-Angus recorder. Problems with the recorder's clock, tape advance mechanism, and pen actuator (for indicating direction) were found, and the unit required frequent maintenance. 26. On 30 March, the system was replaced with a Skyvane Model W102P anemometer manufactured by the Weather Measure Corporation, Sacramento, Calif. Wind speed and direction were recorded continuously on an MFE Corpora- tion, Salem, N. H., two-channel chart recorder and were incorporated into the automated data collection and analysis program using the computer. The ane- mometer, calibrated at the National Bureau of Standards in Gaithersburg, Md., showed an accuracy of +1 percent below 11 m/sec and +3 percent above 11 m/sec. Microbarograph 27. A recording aneroid sensor (microbarograph), used to measure atmo- spheric pressure, responded to pressure changes on the order of 0.169 mb. Microbarographs manufactured by the Belfort Instrument Company, Baltimore, Md. (used before 9 April 1982), and Weathertronics Incorporated, Sacramento, Calif., were located inside the laboratory building, 9 m above NGVD. 28. The microbarograph was compared daily to an NWS aneroid barometer, and adjustments were made as necessary. Maintenance of the microbarographs consisted of inking the pens, changing the chart paper, and winding the clocks every 3 or 7 days for the instruments used before 30 March or after, respectively. 29. An electronic atmospheric pressure sensor with analog output, manu- factured by Yellow Springs Instruments Company, Inc. (YSI, Inc.), Yellow Springs, Ohio, was installed in the building in late February and included in the automated data collection program. Data from this gage were compared with the microbarograph once a week to ensure proper operation of the instruments. Air temperature thermometers--maximum/minimum 30. NWS maximum and minimum thermometers were used to determine the daily extreme air temperatures. The thermometers were housed in an NWS 18 instrument shelter located 43 m behind the dune (Figure 2). The shelter was designed with louvered sides, a double roof, and a slatted bottom for housing instruments requiring protection from direct sunlight (Figure 3). Figure 3. Louvered instrument shelter (background) and rain gages (foreground) 31. The actual temperature readings at the time the thermometers were read (i.e. the present temperature) were compared to ensure accuracy of the maximum and minimum values. Maintenance consisted of periodic removal and cleaning with soap and water and lubricating the Townsend support used to hold and reset the instruments. Rain gage 32. A 30-cm weighing rain gage manufactured by the Belfort Instrument Company, Baltimore, Md., used to measure the daily amount of precipitation, was located near the instrument shelter 46 m behind the dune (Figures 2 and 3). The manufacturer's specifications indicated that the instrument accuracy was +0.5 percent for precipitation amounts less than 15 em and +1.0 percent for amounts above 15 cm. 33. A 15-cm-capacity "true check" clear plastic rain gage with a 0.025-cm resolution, manufactured by the Edwards Manufacturing Company, Alberta Lea, Minn., was used to monitor the performance of the weighing rain gage. This gage, located near the weighing gage (Figure 3), was checked 19 daily; and very few discrepancies were identified throughout the year. The weighing rain gage required little maintenance except to wind the clock and ink the pen. 20 PART IV: DATA COLLECTION AND ANALYSIS Wave Data Acquisition system 34. The primary data acquisition system was a Data General Corporation (Westboro, Mass.) NOVA-4 mini-computer located in the FRF laboratory building. The backup system consisted of a Lockheed Electronics Company, Inc. (Plain- field, N. J.), 7D FM tape recorder which was used infrequently to record data when the primary system was not operational. Collection 35. The signals from the gages were routinely sampled four times per second for 20 min every 6 hr beginning as near as possible to 0100, 0700, 1300, and 1900 hours Eastern Standard Time (EST); these hours correspond to the time that the NWS creates daily synoptic weather maps. During storms, hourly data recordings were made. Prior to collection, each gage signal was first amplified and biased to ensure a O- to 5-V-range. However, since the backup FM recorder operated on a maximum output of 3 V, the signal was lin- early scaled by a factor of 3/5 when the backup recorder was used. The analog Signals were converted to digital form prior to analysis. 36. Data were recorded on 9-track magnetic tapes having the following format: two header records of information were written, including (a) the sensor identification number; and (b) the date, time, calibration, and signal bias factors, followed by 13 records of data for each 20-min recording in- terval. Each data record contained 384 data values in a binary format such that each value represented the computer units corresponding to the instanta- neous voltage output of the sensor. The above sequence of 15 records per file was repeated for each sensor and recording interval until the data tape was filled (600 to 700 files total per tape). Digital analysis/ summarization procedures 37. Thompson (1977) and Harris (1974) describe the procedure used for analyzing and summarizing the digital wave data contained in this report. The procedure is based on a Finite (fast) Fourier Transform (FFT) spectral analy- sis of 4,096 data values (1,024-sec recordings sampled at 4 Hz) for each file processed. 21 38. The program computes the first five moments of the distribution of sea surface elevations. It then edits the digital data file, checking for data points out of the O- to 5-V range and "jumps" and "spikes". A jump is defined as a data value in excess of 2.5 standard deviations from the previous data value, while a spike is a data value 5 standard deviations or more from the mean. If less than 5 jumps or spikes in a row are found, the program lin- early interpolates between acceptable data and replaces the erroneous data values. If more than 5 jumps or spikes in a row or a total of 100 bad data points for the file are found, the program stops interpolation and further editing, analyzes the data, and prints a flag indicating there is a problem with the file. If the variance is less than 0.001 me, the record is not anal- yzed. After editing, the first five moments of the distribution of sea sur- face elevations are again computed. A cosine bell data window was applied to increase the resolution for the energy spectrum of the file; use of the data window is discussed by Harris (1974). After application of the data window, the program computed the variance spectrum (energy spectrum) using the FFT procedure. After the data files were analyzed, the results were eliminated for files that were flagged as bad or appeared inconsistent with simultaneous observations from nearby gage sites. Frequently, the spectrum and/or distri- bution function of sea surface elevations were examined to determine if the data were acceptable. After the analysis results were edited, monthly sum- maries of wave heights and periods were generated for inclusion in summary reports. 39. Unless otherwise specified, "wave height" means the energy based parameter H, defined as four times the standard deviation of the sea surface elevations. 40. The wave period T is defined as the period associated with the maximum energy in the cHeeattien This is resolved by partitioning the spectrum into frequency bands of equal width and finding the band with the maximum energy density. The period reported is the reciprocal of the center frequency (e.g., Tp = 1/frequency), of the spectral band. Since the spectral bands are of equal frequency width, namely 0.010742 Hz (e.g., 11/1,024 sec), the analysis provides uniform resolution in frequency. However, the resolution in period is not uniform, since the period intervals become larger for lower frequencies. Due to the convention of reporting the period at the center of the interval, only a discrete set of period values is possible (Table 1). 22 Table 1 Spectral Band and Peak Period Specifications Period Upper Limit Corresponding Associated with Band of Frequency Period, Lower Center Frequency Periods Not Number Band, Hz Limit of Band, sec of Band, sec Reported, sec 6 0.064 15052 Ve 15h 7 0.075 13.30 14 13 8 0.086 11.64 12 9 0.097 10.34 11 10 0.107 9531 10 11 0.118 8.46 9 12 0.129 7.76 8 13 0.140 eak© 1 14 0.150 6.65 U 15) 0.161 6.21 6 16 0.172 5.82 6 17 0.183 5.48 6 18 0.193 6 We 5 19 0.204 4.90 5) The wave periods used in this report have been rounded to the nearest second before summarization. Certain period values do not occur in the results, i.e., 13, 15, and 16 sec. During October through December 1980, a different analysis program was used which utilized the same FFT analysis technique but allowed all periods to be reported. This was accomplished by searching for the band (still 11/1,024 Hz wide) with the maximum energy by letting the band occur anywhere in frequency instead of rigidly partitioning the spectrum, sometimes referred to as a "floating" frequency band search. 41, Summarizing, only a discrete set of period values is possible with the standard analysis. When the data are summarized into equal width period intervals, the results show a false absence of wave periods of 13, 15, and 16 sec. However, some of these values were reported for data between October and December 1980. Complete information about the energy contained in all frequency bands can best be obtained by inspecting the full spectrum, examples of which are included in this report for all storm wave conditions during 1982. 23 Water Level Data Collection 42, The water level information was obtained from a NOS tide gage which produced a digital paper tape of instantaneous water levels sampled continu- ously at 6-min intervals. At the end of each month, the paper tape was re- moved from the recorder and mailed to NOS in Rockville, Md. for analysis. Analysis 43. The digital paper tape records of tide heights taken every 6 min were analyzed by the Tides Analysis Branch of NOS. A Mitron interpreter cre- ated a digital magnetic computer tape from the punch paper tape, which was then processed on a Univac 732 computer. First, a listing of the instantan- eous tidal height values was created for visual inspection. If errors were encountered, a computer program was used to fill in or recreate bad or missing data using correct values from the nearest NOS tide station and to account for known time lags and elevation anomalies. The data were plotted, and a new listing was generated and rechecked. When the validity of the data had been confirmed, monthly tabulations of daily highs and lows, hourly heights (in- stantaneous height selected on the hour), and various extreme and/or mean water level statistics were computed. The monthly or annual mean sea level (MSL) reported is the average of the hourly heights, while the mean tide level (MTL) is midway between mean high water (MHW) and mean low water (MLW). Meteorological Data 44, Each instrument used for monitoring the meteorological conditions at the FRF was read and inspected daily. For those instruments with analog chart recording capabilities, (a) the pen was zeroed (where applicable); (b) the chart time was checked and corrected; and (c) a daily reading was marked on the chart for reference, if necessary; (d) the starting and ending chart times were recorded, as necessary; and (e) new charts were installed when needed. Samples of the chart records for the microbarograph (atmospheric pressure in millibars) and rain gage (in inches) are shown in Figure 4. 45. High and low temperature values, read daily directly from the instruments, represent the extreme temperature values since the last reading. 46. Atmospheric pressure values measured by the electronic instrument 24 oievia ee erwomreee CCS eC opty cooing «6 vtourz eee [FETE] IPE EPS [EP eT? i] Pye AEP |] ie basess say see peeasy bee sees: ( UNIVERSAL RAIN GAGE BELFORT INSTRUMENT COMPANY CHART NO. 5-4046-B 12 INCH DUAL TRAVERSE 192 HOURS DALTIMORE MARYLAND. U.BA ( Pemenimuea eo Toe ww 2 4 Oo ONT 4 6 bom 2 Ao mumeDay. ¥Uaecay———~———-w/ BON SODA. aun mMonDaT —rnipay M2 46 OM 2 4 Gow « 6 at SaTUROAY. a. Rain gage (in inches) meee. 1 20 ea "s sai tt 8 an M4 on 1k ko lt mOAY- Re oh emupony Comer) Aen ner ae soe 8 2's 8 b. Microbarograph (in millibars) Figure 4. 25 Sample rain gage and microbarograph chart records » Went Sacramento, California 95591 22 DHAFIAH | | ci a bene oe . nang eee REMARKS... Yves frst Me omyet Ie fe ee date oll 377 © 39S Teles: were collected simultaneously with wave data (routinely every 6 hr and hourly during storms). Wind Data Collection 47. Prior to 30 March 1982, wind speed and direction were continuously recorded on chart records. After that date, the analog signal was interfaced to the computer, and wind and wave data were collected simultaneously. Analysis 48. The wind conditions prior to 30 March 1982 were determined by esti- mating the average speed and direction values from 10-min sections of the chart records four times per day. After 30 March, mean wind speed and direc- tion were computed from 20-min digital data samples. 49. Annual, seasonal, and monthly joint probability distributions of wind speed versus direction were computed. Wind speeds were resolved into 1-m/sec intervals, while the directions were at 22.5-deg intervals, i.e., 16-point-compass-direction specifications. These distributions are presented as wind "roses". The length of the "petal" represents the frequency of wind blowing from the specified direction, and the width of the "petal" is indica- tive of the speed in 3-m/sec intervals. Resultant directions and speeds were also determined by vector averaging the data. Visual Data 50. Daily visual observations were made near 0700 hours to supplement instrumented data collection. These include observations of surface current speed and direction at (a) the seaward end of the pier, (b) the midsurf posi- tion of the pier, and (c) the beach 500 m updrift of the pier. Surface cur- rents were determined by observing the movement of dye on the water surface. Also measured were the wave approach angle at the seaward end of the pier, the breaker angle, and the breaker type nearshore. Bathymetric and Pier Surveys Collection 51. Profiles were obtained monthly and after storms using the Coastal Research Amphibious Buggy (CRAB), a 10.7-m-tall amphibious tripod, and a Zeiss 26 Elta-2 total station surveying system described by Birkemeier and Mason (1984). Each profile extended seaward from the baseline behind the dune to a water depth of about 10 m, within 0.6 km north and south of the FRF pier. Their locations are shown in Figure C1. The survey accuracy was +3 cm horizontally and vertically. Soundings along both sides of the FRF pier were included. The technique consisted of lowering a weighted measuring tape to the bottom and then recording the distance below the established pier deck elevation. Measurements were made midway between the pier pilings to minimize errors due to scour near the pilings. Analysis 52. The pier, beach, nearshore, and offshore data were reduced to posi- tion (X,Y) and depth (Z) triplets relative to established monumentation and NGVD, respectively. The data were listed, and a display of the profiles (i.e. distance along the range versus elevation) were generated for visual inspec- tion. After the data were edited, another set of routines was used to compute contour diagrams of the bottom topography and time sequences of bottom eleva- tions at selected locations along the pier. Sediment Data Collection 53. Sediment data were not collected routinely at the FRF during the year. However, a sediment survey was conducted in March, and sediment samples were obtained along a shore normal profile line located 517 m south of the pier in October. Between 14 and 19 March, a graduate class from the Univer- sity of Virginia, led by Professor Robert Dolan in cooperation with the FRF staff, examined the spatial variation of sediments across the littoral zone at the FRF. Sediment samples (274) were collected and analyzed from 11 of the bathymetric survey profile lines and along the pier. The samples were col- lected from the top of the dune to the 9-m depth contour. Onshore samples were collected by hand, and care was taken not to penetrate more than 5 ecm deep. Ninety percent of the offshore samples were taken from the CRAB with a gravity release clamshell device that could recover up to 1,000 g of bottom sediment. In 10 percent of the sampling locations, the hard bottom prevented proper operation of the clamshell, so a pipe dredge sampler was dragged along the bottom. 27 Analysis 54. Mean sediment sizes were determined by visually estimating the size distribution of the sample by at least two analysts. Selected samples were sieved to be sure the analysts were not introducing a bias; comparisons were favorable. Size distributions presented in this report were based on sieved samples. The FRF sediment characteristics were summarized by contouring the mean grain size of the sand samples at 1/2-phi intervals. Photographic Data Aerial 55. Quarterly aerial photographic missions were performed using a 9-in negative format mapping aerial camera capable of black/white and color photog- raphy. All coverage was at least 60 percent overlap, with flights flown as close as possible to low tide between 1000 and 1400 hours with less than 10 percent cloud cover. 56. The photographs obtained on 7 February, 11 May, and 27 October were concentrated near the FRF (Figure 5), while those obtained on 14 July also in- cluded coverage from Cape Henry, Va., to Cape Hatteras, N. C. Beach 57. Daily color slides of the beach were taken using a 35mm camera from the same location on the pier looking north and south. The location from which each picture was taken as well as the date, time, and a brief descrip- tion of the picture were marked on the slides. An inventory is also maintained. 28 RUDEE INLET SCALE 1:12,000 HATTERAS FIELD RESEARCH FACILITY Figure 5. Quarterly aerial photography flight lines, 1981 29 PART V: DATA AVAILABILITY AND RESULTS 58. Table 2 is intended as a quick reference guide to show the dates for which various types of data are available. Wave gage histories which may explain major gaps in the data are provided in Appendix B. 59. This part provides results of the weather, wave, surface current, tidal, water characteristics, photographic, survey, and sediment measurements made during the year. Although this report is intended to provide basic data for analysis by users, many of the daily observations have been summarized by month, season, or year to aid in interpretation. A discussion of the data and a comparison with previous years are also presented. If individual data are needed, the user can obtain the detailed information by following the pro- cedures described in paragraphs 6 and 7. Meteorological Data 60. This section summarizes meteorological measurements made at the FRF in 1982. Appendix D (Storm Data) contains hourly wind speed and direction and atmospheric pressure values during storm conditions. Air temperature 61. The marine climate at the FRF moderates the extremes of both summer and winter, as indicated by the mean monthly and annual high and low air tem- peratures shown in Table 3. Based on 5 years of data, the average date of the first freezing temperature is 3 December, while the average date of the last is 18 March. The 1982 annual mean high temperature was 19.8° C, and the mean low was 1159 C, slightly warmer than in previous years. Precipitation 62. Precipitation was reasonably well distributed throughout the year at the FRF, averaging 95 mm per month (Table 4). May through July usually tend to be high precipitation months, while September and October generally are low. However, January and February were peak precipitation months during 1982. Total precipitation for 1982 was 133 mm above the annual average, and two monthly maxima occurred. Winds 63. Since local winds frequently control nearshore currents and wave conditions, an understanding of the wind and wave climate at any coastal 30 G3ANIvl8o VLVG 4O 433M 11N4 QSNIVLEO VLVG 40 SAVG Z NVHLSS31 ‘A VLVG ON [] SYNLVYAdWIAL y BE SG SUER ESE SR GER deeoR Geer eR Ue ce aeAMAneaneo SOlLSI¥3LOVUWHO HaLVM 3) | eo se es Tc ww y ee Ty Bey y A GRU 0000000000080 000 02 ee eee eee y WV AA y SEGG0Q000000RR0080 44 7 aS [2 2 oe ee ao oo Add 7 / ry A 4 A Addsd A y y ry oe JTTTGeTTeAY &9eq 2Q61 & aTqel, GN3 Y3ld LNAY¥YNd (GL9) YHOTAVS SHOHSHVAN (S79) YHOTAVS GN3 ald (OL9) YAQINSAVM 3YOHSHVI3N (029) H30!IYSAVM SHOHSIIO SAVM HdVYSOYVEOHOIN YSHLVIAM Table 3 Monthly and Annual Air Temperature Statistics for 1982 and 1980-1981 Mean High, ne é Mean Low, aC y Month 1982 1980-1981 Maxima, C 1982 1980-1981 Minima, C Jan 8.1 7.7 20 -1.2 0.1 -14 (1982) Feb 10.9 6.9 22 (1982) 3.7 -0.5 -11 Mar 13.0 12.3 a4 5.2 3.5 -7 Apr 16.9 20.6 30 8.6 11.3 -2 (1982) May 24.3 23.2 35 14.8 14.3 6 (1982) Jun 26.5 28.5 35 19.2 19.6 11 Jul 29.7 30.1 43 21.6 22.1 13 Aug 28.9 29.0 37 20.8 21.3 15 Sep 25.6 oT.T7 34 19.0 19.8 10 (1982) Oct 20.8 20.6 29 13.5 12.4 4 Nov 18.0 15.5 27 (1982) 10.6 6.8 -3 Dec 151 11.2 25 (1982) 6.8 2.2 -12 Annual 19.8 19.2 11.9 11.0 Table 4 Precipitation Statistics* 1982 1978-1981 1978-1982 1978-1982 Extremes Month Total Mean Mean Maxima Minima Jan 112 105 106 180 45 Feb 127 69 80 127 (1982) 6 Mar 63 85 80 137 48 Apr 131 76 87 131 (1982) 46 May 4 117 102 239 39 Jun 118 84 91 130 60 Jul TT 109 103 200 64 Aug 81 88 BY) 220 36 Sep 142 52 70 160 5 Oet 47 4g 4g 73 25 Nov 85 98 95 130 67 Dec 118 TT 85 127 UT Monthly Average 95 84 86 Annual 1,142 1,009 1,035 * In millimetres. 32 location is important to most studies of hydrodynamic and sedimentary pro- cesses. In this section, wind characteristics at the FRF are discussed based on measurements made four times per day. 64. Winds at the FRF are dominated by tropical air masses which create low to moderate warm southern breezes, Arctic air masses which produce cold winds from northerly directions, and small-scale cyclonic, low pressure, sys- tems which originate either in the tropics (and move north along the coast) or inland (and move east offshore) and are generally responsible for the stron- gest wind speeds. The winds at the FRF are predominantly from northeast and southwest due to the influence of these air systems. 65. Present year. Figure 6 shows the distribution of winds during 1982 as 40.6 percent blowing from north-northwest to east-northeast and 26.1 per- cent from south-southwest to west-southwest. The annual resultant wind speed was 0.8 m/sec with an associated north-northeasterly direction of 26 deg (Table 5). 66. The dominant wind direction changed with season, such that during January through March there was a mixture of northerly (arctic) and southerly (tropical) winds with frequent cyclones. However, northerly directions out- numbered southerly ones by two to one, while easterly and westerly directions were approximately even (Figure 7). The resultant wind speed was 1.9 m/sec, somewhat stronger than the annual resultant (Table 5). The resultant direc- tion was 350 deg, indicating a strong northerly tendency and that western Winds slightly dominated eastern wind directions. Over 15 percent of the time, the winds blew out of the north-northeast during this season. The wind speeds were not particularly strong, with 86.6 percent under 10 m/sec and only 1.5 percent exceeding 14 m/sec. 67. Low wind speeds and southerly directions during April through June are characteristic of the tropical trade winds. During this season southerly winds outnumbered northerly ones almost two to one. The resultant wind speed and direction were 0.8 m/sec and 179 deg, respectively. A distinct shift of direction occurred between April (resultant direction of 45 deg) and March (resultant direction of 196 deg). Ninety-three percent of the speeds were less than 10 m/sec. 68. July through September was very mild with all speeds 12 m/sec or less. Although the winds blew 10 percent more frequently from the south rather than from the north, they were predominantly from northeast-east 33 37.5 0.0 22.5 315.0 45.0 mbar a4 7 7.5 a = yi) wy a = cul 90.0 E ] 247.5 Sf yy 112.5 157.5 1982 RESULTANT SPEED 0.8 M/SEC DIRECTION 26 DEG N 33705) 0-9 22.5 315.0 45.0 7 A 292.5 ; - W 270.0 fe oad 0 ORE Q/ : ¢ oe 112.5 a { 135.0 157.5 202.5 180.0 Ss 1980 PLUS 1981 RESULTANT SPEED 1.1 M/SEC DIRECTION 328 DEG SPEED, M/SEC 13-15 16-18 19-21 22+ oF 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40 FREQUENCY, % Figure 6. Comparison of annual wind roses for 1982 and 1980 plus 1981, reference true north 34 Annual Seasonal Jan-Mar Apr-Jun Jul-Sep Oct-Dec Monthly Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Speed m/sec 8 0 MMWNO— woo — —= O — |W) NW weoOoNDoO Ww OUIN Of £m ow FRF Resultant Wind Speed and Direction 1982 Direction deg True N 26 350 179 126 38 297 10 20 45 196 176 23) 203 60 49 48 11 Table 5 Speed m/sec SS) Sy SS SY ES [p9) mNoo— mo—-—- O00 aA— Ow MoOwO MW Ow Oo > Mar 35 1980-1981 Direction deg True N 328 331 215 262 341 343 318 324 217 63 213 202 23 285 359 317 334 Speed m/sec 9 0 woo © V1 CO OVO Mm — Ow MwMNOO— WN £&— COW PP 1980-1982 Direction deg True N 344 338 202 155 0 328 347 342 216 192 196 218 23 54 21 359 344 37.5 00.0 22.5 315.0 => ye uA le 315.0 SPEED, M/SEC 10 15 20 25 30 35 b w oe , 270.0 - ong pias 270.0 f= —— apse e ya v m— 247.5 ge 112.5 247.5 Lf i\ 112.5 225.0 135.0 235.0 135.0 157.5 : 202.5 180.0 202.5 teote 157.5 s s JAN - MAR APR - JUN RESULTANT RESULTANT SPEED 1.9 M/SEC SPEED 0.8 M/SEC DIRECTION 380 DEG DIRECTION 179 DEG N N 337.5 0.0 22.5 337.5 0.0 22.5 315.0 eood 315.0 £9 a 7 67.5 q 67.5 292.5 a 292.5 ~ a _ & a fo} 90.0 E cul) 90.0 270.0 == 270.0 a : Lk a} ev 112.5 247.5 / g v \Y 112.5 235.0 135.0 225.0 135.0 157.5 70 202.5 (80.0 202.5 180.0 157.5 Ss s JUL - SEP OCT - DEC RESULTANT RESULTANT SPEED 0.2 M/SEC SPEED 2.4 M/SEC DIRECTION 126 DEG DIRECTION 38 DEG Figure 7. Seasonal wind roses for 1982, reference true north 36 (31 percent) and southwest-west-southwest (28 percent). The light winds and bimodal directional distribution produced a low seasonal resultant speed of 0.2 m/sec. The resultant southerly direction persisted through August when a shift back to northerly directions occurred; the seasonal resultant was 126 deg. 69. October through December brought a shift back to the northerly dom- inance, with percentages again two-to-one more frequent. Unlike January through March, in which easterly and westerly directions were evenly split, during this season winds were easterly more than 52 percent of the time (15 percent more often than westerly directions). The resultant speed, 2.4 m/sec, was the highest of all seasons. The resultant direction was 38 deg, reflecting the predominance of strong northeast winds. 70. The highest wind speeds occurred during October through December ; 14 percent equaled or exceeded 10 m/sec. Three percent were greater than or equal to 15 m/sec, and on two occasions average speeds in excess of 22 m/sec were observed. 71. Present versus past years. The pattern of predominant wind direc- tion rotation from northerly during the cold months (January through March and October through December) to southerly during the warm months (April through September) and strong winds from the east during October through December is consistent with that during past years at the FRF (Figures 6 and 7). However, during 1982, the winds blew far more often from the easterly directions and less often from the north through northwesterly direction than past records have shown (Table 5). The annual resultant magnitudes are comparable, while the directions show a 58 deg shift toward the east. The tendency for winds to blow more often from the easterly directions during September, October, and November 1982 is demonstrated by comparison of these data with data from September, October, and November of 1980 and 1981 combined (Table 6). The difference between the distribution of winds for 1982 and previous years was due, in part, to unseasonable westerly winds in the upper atmosphere (National Climatic Data Center 1983). 72. Combination of years--1980 through 1982. The distribution of winds for the combined 1980 through 1982 data indicates a strong northeasterly and southwesterly tendency with few northwesterly and southeasterly winds (Fig- ure 8). Seasonal variations are large, with northern winds dominating during the fall and winter and southern winds during spring and summer (Figure 8 and Table 5). 37 Table 6 Comparison of Wind Directions for 1982 Versus 1980 Plus 1981* September October November 1980 Plus 1980 Plus 1980 Plus Direction 1982 1981 1982 1981 1982 1981 North-Northeast 44 13.5 6.7 19.0 9.5 9.6 Northeast 15.0 7.4 IO 4.2 1351 1.8 East-Northeast 26.5 11.2 13.4 5.5 14.7 4.2 East 11.5 1.9 10.9 0.4 4.3 1.8 Total 57.4 34.0 48.6 29.1 6.6 17.4 * In percentages. 38 3377.5 22.5 315.0 #320 ai 7.5 SPEED, M/SEC 292.5 a& e 8 @ Rs o © @ a pee iy bays oP Weare a“ aie oe Qy 0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40 Bay v FREQUENCY, % 247.5 ¢ ny L 12.5 SeiG 135.0 157. 22.5 (80.0 3 s ANNUAL RESULTANT SPEED 0.9 M/SEC DIRECTION 344 DEG N N 337.5 0.0 22.5 337.5 UP 22.5 315.0 pond 315.0 aoe 67.5 67.5 292.5 ? 292.5 aa lp = S . Re & cl .0 cml) 90.0 270.0 (= oO ORE W cea = BY Ee & 247.5 ¢ my ev 112.5 ¢ Q yv 112.5 an 135.0 sae 135.0 ; 157.5 202.5 180 Bea 202.5 180. S S JAN - MAR JUL - SEP RESULTANT RESULTANT SPEED 1.9 M/SEC SPEED 0.1 M/SEC DIRECTION 338 DEG DIRECTION 155DEG N ang 06 AG 337.5 0.0 22.5 315.0 BL) 315.0 f BL 67.5 * q 67.5 292.5 a | 7 292.5 ~™ so a D> > 12) Pe od cod 90.0 90.0 270.0 P E W 270.0 fe ~ _ Y wf " \ fake PG ¢ 0 3 112.5 Sete 135.0 esta 135.0 7. 157.5 202.5 180.0 7:8 202.5 180. S S APR - JUN OCT - DEC RESULTANT RESULTANT SPEED 0.8 M/SEC DIRECTION 202 DEG Figure 8. SPEED 2.2 M/SEC DIRECTION 0 DEG Annual and seasonal wind roses for 1980 through 1982 3) 73. Less than 1 percent of the wind speeds has been observed to equal or exceed 15 m/sec, while on only one occasion during any year would the speed be expected to exceed 20 m/sec (recall the speed is an average computed over at least 10 min), as indicated in Table 7. Wind speeds are most often between 5 and 10 m/sec. Table 7 Wind Speed Distribution* for 1980-1982 Meenas: Annual Jan-Mar Apr-Jun Jul-Sep Oct-Dec 20+ OR2 0.1 0.4 0.0 On 15-19 0.6 0.7 0.1 0.3 Jed 10-14 To) 9.9 4.5 2.9 1305 5-9 49.3 52.5 52.4 47.7 4M 7 0-4 42.0 36.8 42.6 49.1 4o.4 Wave Data 74. This section presents summaries of the wave data collected at the FRF. A review of the wave conditions during 1982 and a comparison to previous years is followed by a discussion of the wave climate for 1980 through 1982 combined. Appendix B contains summaries for each gage which include height and period distributions, wave direction distributions, and persistence tables. A discussion of individual major storms is given in Part VI, and Ap- pendix D contains hourly wave data for times when the heights ene exceeded 2m at the seaward end of the FRF pier. Present data year 75. Spatial variation. The distribution of wave heights for buoy gage 620, located 3 km offshore, and pier end staff gage 625 were essentially the same for heights below 3 m during 1982 (Figure 9). For the few observed heights above 3 m, wave heights were larger at the gage located 3 km from shore than they were at the gage at the seaward end of the pier. Refraction, bottom friction, and the effect of depth in limiting the wave energy ina spectrum would cause the observed differences in storm wave heights. Wave statistics for staff gage 615, located at the landward end of the pier in HO 7.0 5.0 6.0 4.0 HEIGHT (METERS) 3.0 \) 1 1¢ 1 10 PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED Figure 9. Annual wave height distributions for 1982 shallow water, differed from those of the other gages as can be seen in Fig- ure 9 and Table 8. In all but the very calmest conditions, gage 615 is within the breaker zone. Consequently, these statistics represent a lower energy wave climate in which the annual mean height (0.7 m) is more than 20 percent less than at the seaward gages (0.9 m). Table 8 Annual Wave Statistics for 1982 Mean M Maximum Hn » mM Standard T chee Standard Hn , m Gage Depth, m fo) Dev, m ja_¥ Dev, sec (o) 620 18 0.9 0.5 8.3 2.6 43 625 9 0.9 0.5 8.6 2.7 3.5 615 2 0.7 0.4 7.8 3.0 2.2 Date 25 October 25 October 25 October 76. Although the distribution of wave periods was similar for gages 620 and 625 (Figure 10), gage 615 had more wave periods less than 7 sec and fewer periods 8 sec or longer than the gages in deeper water. Wave breaking seaward of the gage again appears to affect the wave climate at this location. Gage 620 recorded more frequent 7 sec or less periods and less frequent 10 sec 44 as 20 PSF aan aPa aa aerate tate ate nate| ul S © Sg 5 BY mm 6 8 Be ; uo ie me = 4 Z & SY Sg & 4 as = ke y by y % 4 y) 8 SZ Sg = 4 is va WW kd Ve A Y y yj a ee Ve Vee Y a | es ee ee ra ee ee aes Cae A ag eed Ves Ve 8 ed es es so res) ee ee es a A RS ie op 5 B eet Ves (ae Ve ee es ee 7) ' 3 es es es es es es y 3 Ry ee es es) es S Ve Ce eS eS es es es es Se ees es ee ae ae es es Bm es ees es es ae ee ee ee 2 pS B es es Ss ee ee ee 5 SMG SA SBA A I IS 20S 30 ee 3 i =: ie 3, O- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- ‘399 “59 “4.9 5.9 6.9 7-9 8.9 9.9 10.9 li.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER PERIOD, SEC Figure 10. Annual wave period distributions for 1982 or longer periods than did gage 625. The higher precentage of short period waves at gage 620 is believed to result, in part, from the differences in fetch for winds blowing from the west. The fetch at gage 625 is only about 0.5 km, while that at gage 620 is about 3 km, sufficiently long to allow some wave growth. 77. The distribution of wave directions for the year (Figure 11) re- vealed that waves approached from the south side of the pier (i.e., from >70 deg) 20 percent more frequently than from the north side. However, for storm wave conditions, the distribution was three-to-two favoring waves ap- proaching from the north side. 78. Temporal variation. The monthly and seasonal variations in wave characteristics were consistent with the wind variations (see paragraph 65). Temporal trends for gages 625 and 620 are shown in Figures 12 and 13, respec- tively, and are consistent with those for gage 615. Seasonal wave height distribution variations (Figure 14) were similar for all gages. Waves were highest between October and December 1982 when they could be expected to exceed 2 m 15 percent of the time (twice as often as between January and March). Wave heights were at a minimum between July and September, exceeding 2m on only four occasions. 42 N 337.5 22.5 22.5 45.0 45.0 67.5 67.5 Trek | e al 90.0 E aa!) 90.0 PIER ORIENTATION BEACH a 112.5 135.0 JAN - DEC JUL - SEP RESULTANT RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.8M HEIGHT 0.6 M DIRECTION 71 DEG DIRECTION 74 DEG N N 22.5 37.5 22.5 45.0 45.0 67.5 67.5 , \ 2 y se mmm] 0 E ss | E we a] 112.5 112.5 JAN-MAR OCT - DEC RESULTANT RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.9M HEIGHT 1.1M DIRECTION 65 DEG DIRECTION 68 DEG N 45.0 67.5 HEIGHT, M 0 10 20 30 40 50 eel E aaa 0 10 20 30 40 50 FREQUENCY, % 112.5 135.0 APR - JUN RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.8M DIRECTION 78 DEG Figure 11. Annual and seasonal wave roses for 1982, reference true north 43 HEIGHT (M) PERIOD (SECONDS) ew wer VW fo vs’ Bo WO LEGEND x EXTREME O MEAN | +1 STANDARD DEVIATION x x aly Uiiy J F M A M JS J A S O N ODO J-H A-J J-S 0-0 8280-8) TIME a. Wave height LEGEND O MEAN l +1 STANDARD DEVIATION JF M A HM J JS A S DO N OD JM A-J J-S 0-0 82 60-8! T(ME b. Wave period Figure 12. 1982 monthly, seasonal, and annual wave statistics for gage 625 4y HE [GHT(M) PERIOD {SECONDS} LEGEND x EXTREME O MEAN l +1 STANDARD DEVIATION TIME a. Wave height LEGEND O MEAN | +1 STANDARD DEVIATION J Ff tH @ WH JI J fF SS OO W OO J Ge! JS OF CAEN TIME b. Wave period Figure 13. 1982 monthly, seasonal, and annual wave statistics for gage 620 45 7.0 is soso JAN-MAR 82 Ci rh ||, une emmmn P APR-JUN 82 Se PIWLESSER! 82 —., WOVN=DES ee 2 ANNUAL 82 wn [9° ew LJ = eo ce iH” td ac 2.0 1.0 0.0 lo 10° 10° 10° PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED Figure 14. 1982 annual and seasonal cumulative distribution of wave height for gage 625 79. Mean seasonal wave period values (Figures 12 and 13) varied sim- ilarly to the mean wave heights; i.e., during October to December the periods were longest, and from July to September they were shortest. Trends in the variation of wave period by season are highlighted by Table 9. The excep- tionally calm summer was dominated by local winds which produced wave periods predominantly shorter than 10 sec, while two storms during October resulted in a much larger number of periods 14 sec or longer. 80. Approximately 50 percent of the daily observations of wave direc- tion indicated the primary wave train approached from the south side of the pier (i.e. >70 deg) during January to March and October to December, while 72 Table 9 Seasonal Wave Period Distributions for 1982 Period, sec Season <6 1-9 10-12 WH Jan-Mar 26 32 38 4 Apr-Jun 14 48 33 5 Jul-Sep 34 45 19 2 Cet-Dec 27 24 32 17 46 and 64 percent were from the south during the spring and summer, respectively (Figure 11). There was a stronger northerly tendency during storm conditions (i.e., 58 percent of the storm waves approached from the north). Present versus past years 81. The wave climate during 1982 was similar to that in previous years. Annual wave height distributions for 1982 (gage 625) showed small dif- ferences in comparison to the distribution for the combined 1980 and 1981 data (Figure 15). With the exception of July to September (Figure 16), seasonal distributions were similar, also. The variation of mean monthly H, during 1982 for gage 625 versus 1980 through 1981 was inconsistent (Table 10). Indi- vidual months differed as much as 37 percent as in June. For any given month, there were large variations, year to year, in the frequency of storm waves (Bao > 2m). However, seasonal frequencies were consistent. 82. The distributions of wave periods for 1982 and prior years (Fig- ure 17) were similar, with the exception of more frequent long-period waves (12 to 17 sec) between October and December 1982, primarily due to two storms in October 1982. 83. Unlike the similarity between 1982 and previous years for the wave height and period distributions, the distribution of wave direction for 1982 showed that a larger percentage of waves approached from the south. The annual resultant wave direction was about shore-normal, 8 deg southward of the 1980 plus 1981 resultant (Table 11). All years combined 84. The 3-year data set between 1980 and 1982 provides the most reli- able description of the wave climate at the FRF. Spatial differences in wave height are shown in Figure 18. Note the effect of large waves breaking sea- ward of the gage 615 location. For gages 620 and 625, wave height distribu- tions are almost identical up to 2.5 m. Over 2.5 m, they differ by as much as 17 percent (i.e., 0.5 percent of the wave heights at gage 620 exceeded 3.5 m, while the corresponding height was only 3.0 m at gage 625). In deeper water, wave heights in excess of 2 m can be expected to occur 600 hr per year (7 per- cent of the time), and wave heights in excess of 3 m can be expected to occur at gage 625 only about 44 hr per year. Seasonal height distributions indicate that the greatest frequency of high waves occurs between October and December, while the least severe season is April to June (not July to September, as during the very mild summer of 1982). 47 HEIGHT (METERS) HEIGHT (METERS) 7.0 ANNUAL 80-81 ANNUAL 82 6.0 5.0 4.0 3.0 2.0 1.0 0.0 10° 10) 1a PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED Figure 15. Comparison of annual wave height distributions for gage 625 10° E ee ul=sapies-et 3 SS sissa? &2 1 10' 10° PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED Figure 16. Comparison of July through September wave height distributions for gage 625 Lo' 48 Month Jan-Dec Jan-Mar Apr-Jun Jul-Sep Oct-Dec Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec 0.9 Mon oo OHWODW DBAWOONMO Table 10 Comparison of Mean Wave Height Statistics 1982 for Gage 625 Standard Deviation, m 0.5 OLOLST®) DW FU QQOqooooao eoooqooo DAANWWM LFLWEWHW Annual Seasonal Monthly 49 0.9 olor. = OO ASAGOOO OOOQoSs= O>--OMAD NON-—-OO 1980 Plus 1981 Standard Deviation, m 0.6 Ooo © AN Fa QWIOqQooeS oEoooe® DADNINAW MLE AMN AD Month Jan-Dec Jan-Mar Apr-Jun Jul-Sep Oct-Dec Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug - O00 —- WDOw FREQUENCY OF OCCURRENCE, % ANNUAL B82 EH ANNUAL 80-81 7 Y) Re 7G: Bs as BS BS ses Os Z g y) BA ag: Zeon pssst wees ast a Z Re ee 1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 68.0- 9.0- 2.9 3.9 4. 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 PERIOD, SEC 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- 13.9 16.9 LONGER Figure 17. Comparison of annual wave period distributions for gage 625 Table 11 Resultant Wave Height and Direction at the FRF 1982 1980 Plus 1981 1980-1982 Direction Direction Direction Height, m deg True N Height, m deg True N Height, m deg True N Annual 71 0.8 63 0.8 66 Seasonal 65 0.9 59 0.9 62 78 0.6 5 0.6 76 74 0.7 71 0.6 T2 68 1.0 55 1.0 60 Monthly 62 0.9 4a 0.8 50 60 0.9 67 1.0 64 15 0.9 64 0.9 68 73 0.6 68 0.7 70 19 0.7 76 0.7 TT 82 0.5 81 0.6 81 82 0.5 TT 0.4 19 73 0.7 69 0.6 70 70 0.8 70 0.8 70 15 1.1 56 lol 64 67 1.1 52 Voll 57 59 0.8 60 0.9 60 ---000 0000-0 COONOU fF NANANOAO— 50 7.0 HEIGHT (METERS) 0 1 10° 10° PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED Figure 18. Wave height distributions for 1980 through 1982 10° 85. The addition of one year of 1982 data to the 1980 and 1981 data set did not noticeably change the annual wave height distribution (Figure 19) nor the spring, fall, and winter data. The July to September distribution was lowered by only 0.1 to 0.2 percent. 86. Distribution of wave periods for the combined data set was similar for all gages (Figure 20) with most periods being between 5 and 12 sec. As with the height distribution, the addition of data for 1982 had little effect on the wave period distribution. Table 12 presents the joint distribution of wave heights and periods for gages 625 and 620 for the combined 1980-1982 data. For storm conditions when An exceeded 2 m, there was a range of periods from 6 to 17 sec, although as the heights increased the periods tended to increase also. 87. Wave direction of approach for the combined data (Figure 21) was approximately evenly split between directions north and south of the pier axis. However, storm waves approached twice as frequently from the north than from the south. 88. Summary statistics have been presented which show that wave condi- tions at the FRF have a spatial and temporal variation. The cold months of 51 ANNUAL 80-81 ANNUAL 80-82 o°s O°r oe O° (SYSL3W) LHOTSH @ 0°! 0°0 10° PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED Figure 19. ) io" Comparison of long-term wave height distributions for gage 625 BESS SSS Bese SS SiS ISIS OSI LSS BOSSE OOF 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER LEGEND OSES Sas One hee oe 10.9 PSC ne Sn ee 9.9 7.9 PERIOD, SEC PR I I IK OR RI 6.9 Selelelelatateteleetetel 20 592020r07078702079205 0705050205620 5 058 r 08s 5.9 ERR RR RES 49 3.9 1,.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12,.0- 14.0- 17.0- 2.9 8.9 25 0 5 Q b) t) % “JIN3YYNIIO 40 AINANOIYS Annual wave period distributions for Figure 20. 1980-1982 52 Table 12 Joint Distribution of Wave Height Versus Period for 1980-1982 Gage 625 ANNUAL PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HE )GHT (HETERS) PERJOD(SECONDS) TOTAL -0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- 2.9 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER 0.00 - .49 0 2 2 3 LN 20) 28) 330) 25 Oe IB 17: i 370 00 - 299 0 6° 30 38 iS 49S) GS GB S80) 5 468 1.00 - 1.49 . : 6 2 4 #33 =15 37) 0628 OMS 6 ° Zi 1.90 - 1.99 c ° 1 7 920), 913 4 4 8 7 9 8 1 82 2.00 - 2.49 . . ° ° 3 F) 3 3 2 B) 8 9 | 39 2.00 - 2.99 O ° O 0 1 3 2 2 j B) 3 | 20 3.00 - 3.49 ° : ° ° . ° 1 1 1 | | | ° 6 3.90 on 3.99 e e ° ° ° e ° ° 1 ° 1 ° e 2 4.00 = 4,49 e ° e ° ° e ° ° ° ° ry e ° 0 4.50 heed 4.99 e e e e ° a e e e e e e e 0 5.00 ra GREATER ° e ° e e ry e ° e ° ° o ry 0 TOTAL 0 B 39 +%4 339 #122 107 129 135 7B 93 467 9 Gage 620 ANNUAL PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HE JGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 95.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- 2.9 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER 0.00- .49 | 1 3 7 ie) 7h) STR OO) 8 1 130 200 - .99 ae Coc 0 9 OO 4 On O36 SO me 32D ZO 2 467 1.00 - 1.49 ° j yl eh) yh ZO 72 ee O20 6 ee 241 1.50 - 1.99 . ° i Day We B > 10 6 8 6 : 93 2.00 - 2.49 : ° 2 8 7 4 4 3 4 7 3 1 45 2.90 - 2.98 : ° . 1 3 1 1 1 2 3 j . 13 3.00 - 3.49 C . ° . ° . 2 1 5 i { . . 3 3.90 - 3.99 ° : : . ° I j j i 1 5 > 4.00 - 4.49 0 5 . . : : j 0 3 5 i 4.90 - 4.77 0 . . 6 ° 0 0 - 6 s * 0 5-00 - GREATER c a 5 0 0 5 A ° 0 To) 440 440 «103-198 194 124 122, 77s BOC 5) 53 45.0 67.5 7 90.0 PIER ORIENTATION BEACH oo 112.5 135.0 JAN - DEC RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.8M DIRECTION 66 DEG 135.0 JAN - MAR RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.9M DIRECTION 62 DEG 0.0 12.5 135.0 APR - JUN RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.6M DIRECTION 76 DEG 0.0 45.0 135.0 JUL-SEP RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.6 M DIRECTION 72 DEG 337.5 0.0 22.5 45.0 12.5 OCT - DEC RESULTANT HEIGHT 1.0M DIRECTION 60 DEG HEIGHT, M 0 10 20 30 40 5.0 ) 10 20 30 40 50 FREQUENCY, % Figure 21. Annual and seasonal wave roses for 1980-1982, reference true north January to March and October to December are times of high, generally longer, period storm waves approaching from the north. The spring and summer are characteristic of low southern seas. Annual distributions of wave height and period for 3 years of data are relatively stable. Seasonal variations are on the order of 0.5 to 1 percent, and monthly changes may be even greater. Current Data 89. Spatial and temporal variations of longshore surface currents are discussed in this section. Surface current speed and direction at the FRF are influenced by winds, waves, and, indirectly, bottom topography. The extent of the respective influence varies daily. However, winds tend to dominate the currents at the seaward end of the pier, while the breaker angle and height dominate within the surf zone. During extreme wave conditions, the seaward end of the pier is within the breaker zone; consequently, currents measured there are strongly influenced by waves. The effect of the bottom topography is such that under certain conditions rip currents develop which interrupt the general flow of the alongshore current. The trough under the pier is a pre- ferred location for such currents, and some were measured in excess of 1 m/sec. This report concentrates on the long-term alongshore currents, since a complete study of rip currents would require intensive measurements over a relatively short time scale. 90. Surface current measurements were made daily at about 0700 EST by timing the movement of dye patches at three locations: (a) the seaward end of the pier; (b) the midsurf zone position under the pier; and (c) along the beach 500 m updrift of the pier. Present data year 91. Spatial variability. Since the relative influences of wind speed and direction and breaker angle on nearshore surface currents vary with loca- tion at the FRF, there is significant variability between the mean monthly and annual values for these locations (Figure 22) and the daily measurements of surface currents (Figure 23). 92. Currents at the seaward end of the pier were usually lower than those at the midsurf position (midway between the seawardmost breaker position and the beach) and consistently southward throughout the year. At the midsurf location, currents were fastest and varied from southward to northward with season as the wave angles varied (paragraph 80). Currents measured from the 55 CURRENT SPEED (CH/SEC) NORTHWARD ee + 82 PIER END o 2 PIER SURF -» a 8&2 BEACH SOUTHWARD JAN FEB MAR APR FRY JUN JUL AUS SEP OCT NOY DEC ANNUAL TIME Figure 22. Mean surface currents for 1982 56 CURRENT SPEED {CH/SEC) CURRENT SPEED (CH/SEC) PIER END $05 “1754 «04 : 134 5 -1004 2 -7s4 al ia , a. Pier end WR ee RR fe iituiaeial ae 3 ie i a i] nd 1004 Q 134 £ 1504 5 w 1734 24 z 5 ; = gm FEB OMAR APR PAN LUG SEP OCT NOY TIME PIER SURF -200 “175 “190 15 100 R +s Ko i 5 = } E | | b. Midsurf 8 (|r Ot kU YR Vt AT LL TTL jim Lol s r | 5 = Ct 100 12 1S0 175 ee a i a TIME BEACH (SGOM UP DRIFT) -m0 -178 § “10 z 1B S -100 73 o') =} 0 Hatt toa Bet AUP TORS OUT BMRA oe, ec. Beach (500 m updrift) a4 ih | ! E) ! ro} 100 f 13 = 150 3 5 —————_——————— - — ' ; : NFER. OMAROPRO MYON ULOUG SSCS = OOCT) NOV a TIME Figure 23. Daily longshore surface currents at the seaward end and midsurf location of the FRF pier and 500 m updrift on the beach for 1982 Di/ NORTHWARD beach (10 to 15 m from shore) were generally faster than those at the end of the pier but slower than those at the midsurf location; current directions at the beach agreed well with the midsurf directions. Mean annual current values (Table 13) show an approximately even distribution of northward and southward currents measured at the beach, a southward mean at the pier end, and a north- ward resultant at the midsurf position. Monthly mean currents tend to agree best during high wave conditions (i.e. January, February, and October through December). Table 13 Monthly and Annual Longshore Surface Currents at the FRF* Pier End, cm/sec Pier Surf, cm/sec Beach, cm/sec 1980- 1980- 1981- 1981- Month 1982 1981 1982 1982 1981 1982 1982 1981 1982 Jan 9 19 17 16 26 21 19 12 14 Feb a4 a4 a4 21 -9 6 17 6 10 Mar 17 20 19 -13 21 4 4 10 8 Apr 17 T 9 -23 -2 -13 2 -1 0 May 5 13 11 -25 t 9g -8 0 -3 Jun 1 7 6 -26 -13 -20 -11 -13 -12 Jul 3 4 4 -23 -16 -20 -15 -16 -16 Aug 6 8 8 -16 0 -8 -9 -10 -10 Sep 14 10 11 -9 -10 -10 =) -9 -7 Oct 3 12 10 -4 25 11 -7 a4 14 Nov 7 16 144 7 22 15 12 20 17 Dec 12 11 al 14 23 19 5 14 11 Annual 10 12 12 -7 6 -1 1 3 2 * + = southward; - = northward. 93. Temporal variability. Monthly mean currents in January, February, November, and December were directed southward at all locations during 1982. During the spring and summer, they were directed northward at both nearshore locations. However, frequent reversals occurred throughout the other months. This seasonality of currents was consistent with wind and wave patterns pre- viously discussed. 1982 versus previous years 94. Longshore current speed and direction for 1982 were reasonably consistent with those of previous years at the seaward end of the pier and at the beach (Figure 24), though strong northward flow during two storms did 58 CURRENT SPEED (CH/SEC) CURRENT SPEED (CH/SEC) NORTHWARD a. Seaward end SOUTHHARD JPN JAN + r FEB MAR APR FEB MAR b. SSS SS SS mAr uN Ju AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC ANNUAL TIPE Beach (500 m updrift) CURRENT SPEED (CN/SEC) ° NORTHRARD Ox SOUTHWARD 2 yy $$$, JPN FEB OMAR APR OMAY «JUN JUL «AUG «=SEP OCT NOV EC ANNUAL NORTHWARD ec. Midsurf APR MAY JUN Jib AUG SEP OCT NOV OEC ANNUAL TIME Figure 24. Comparison of surface currents at the FRF pier 59 TIME cause October 1982 to show an anomalously northward predominance. The midsurf currents show large differences between 1981 (only previous year of measure- ment) and 1982 (Figure 24). Note that at the midsurf position, the 1981 annual mean current was 6 cm/sec southward, while during 1982 the magnitude was about the same; but the flow was directed northward. All years combined 95. Monthly and annual mean current values for the combined years of data are presented in Figure 25. All locations show consistent temporal variation as well as spatial differences. Near zero annual means for both lo- cations within the surf zone reflect the seasonal variations and frequent re- versals due to the varying wind and wave conditions at the FRF. These con- trast sharply with the strong southward predominance of the pier-end currents. 2 NORTHWARD LEGEND -o + 82 PIER END © 81-82 PIER SURF —» @ 80-82 BEACH ne 4 CURRENT SPEED (CH/SEC) o JPN FEB HAR APR MAY JUN AL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC ANNUAL TIME Figure 25. Mean surface currents at the FRF for 1980-1982 Tide and Water Level Data 96. Tide height values and water levels due to astronomical and meteo- rological forces are discussed in this section. 1982 results are followed by a comparison with previous data. All tidal heights are referenced to the local NGVD unless otherwise stated. 60 Present data year 97. Tides at the FRF are semidiurnal. The effect of the Moon's declination produces an average difference of 10 cm in daily high tides and 5 cm in the daily lows. The mean range during the year was 99 cm with a 4-cm difference between times near Aphelion (July), when the range was lowest, and Perihelion (January) (Table 14 and Figure 26). The monthly averages show a 3- and 6-month periodicity which in part is due to the inclination of the Sun (Coast and Geodetic Survey 1971), a long-period astronomical tidal consti- tuent. Additionally, astronomical forces with annual periodicity, seasonal variability of the specific volume of the sea water due to temperature changes (the Steric effect), and meteorological conditions may also contribute to the observed variations. Extreme water levels for 1982 98. Highest water levels generally occur when strong and persistent onshore winds and associated high waves produce setup of nearshore waters against the shoreline. This condition may be enhanced when the astronomical forces of the Moon and Sun are aligned (syzygy); the astronomical forces are even greater when the moon is also at Perigee (i.e. nearest the Earth). Ex- treme tidal heights at the FRF during 1982 were not coincident with the times of perigee-syzygean alignment that occurred on 9 January, 21 July, and 1 and 30 December. However, extremely high levels in October and December were a result of low pressure systems that produced high waves and strong onshore winds (Section VI). Strong offshore winds caused very low tides such as those of 8 February 1982 (-108 cm), the lowest of the year. 1982 versus past years 99. The distribution of daily high and low water levels and hourly tidal heights during the year were typical of those in previous years (Fig- ure 27), except that apparently milder meteorological conditions produced fewer tidal heights in excess of 100 cm. In 1982, MHW, MLW, mean range (MR), and MTL data were consistent with those in previous years (Table 14 and Figure 26). All years combined 100. Based on the distribution of tide heights for 1980 through 1982 (Figure 28), 1.25 percent of the time (110 hr) the tide height can be expected to exceed 90 cm. Likewise, 1.1 percent of the time (98 hr) the heights can be expected to be less than -70 cm. It can also be seen from Figure 28 that the 61 Table 14 Mean Tide Height Statistics for the FRF* Mean Mean Mean Mean High Tide Sea Low Mean Month Water Level Level Water Range Jan 45 -5 -4 -55 100 Feb 47 -4 -3 =55 102 Mar 55 5 5 -4y 99 Apr 46 -5 -4 -56 102 May 56 6 i -4y 100 Jun 68 18 19 -32 100 Jul 55 7 U -42 97 Aug 58 10 11 -39 97 Sep 67 18 19 -30 97 Oct 78 29 29 -20 98 Nov 58 9 9 -4) 99 Dec 62 11 12 -40 102 1982 58 8 9 -42 99 1979- 1981 59 8 8 -43 102 1981 59 8 9 -42 101 1980 59 8 8 -43 102 1979 60 9 9 -43 103 * Measurements in centimetres. 62 Extreme High 100 95 99 96 101 107 105 87 108 127 96 124 127 149 149 118 121 Date 8 12 25 Oct Nov 1981 13 Nov 2 Mar 26 Feb Extreme Low -9it -108 8 Feb Mar 1980 5 Apr 16 Mar 6 Sep CQ6L-BL6l 4OF eJeP TAASeT 4aqemM pue apTy ATYyQuOW UeAW “92 JuNdTY HINOW 2851 1961 0961 6461 9461 ONOSUFFUUHSSONOSUCFCUUWIFONOSYUCFHUNAFONOSUCFWUW4FONOSUre 0Z)- Ol- MOT INFYLXI oie 06- oB8- 0Z- 09- 0S- Ov- YILVM MOT NVIW Of - 0Z- ol- 0 vy oz TIAIT VIS NVIW os oF os 09 az YILVM HOIH NVIW og 06 001 oll JONVY IGIL NVIW 1 Ta tet ha HOIH IWIYLXIA asi (WO) T3A37 SLUM 63 WATER LEVEL, CM, REF NGVD WATER LEVEL, CM, REF NGVD PROBABILITY (% EQUAL OR GREATER) Figure 27. Comparison of hourly tide heights and mean high and low water level distributions DAILY HIGH SS HOURLY — 0.01 0.10 1.00 10.00 25.00 50.00 75.00 90.00 99.00 99.90 99.99 PROBABILITY (% EQUAL OR GREATER) Figure 28. Distribution of hourly tide heights and mean high and low water levels for 1980-1982 64 0.0) 0.10 1.00 - 10.00 2.00 50.00 75.00 90.00 99.00 99.90 99.99 daily low tide height can actually exceed NGVD 3 percent of the time or 11 days out of the year. Water Characteristics 101. The results of daily measurements of surface water temperature, visibility, and density are presented in this section. The summaries repre- sent single observations made near 0700 EST and, therefore, may not reflect daily average conditions since such characteristics can change rapidly within a 24-hr period. A discussion of 1982 data is followed by a comparison to that of previous years. Water temperature 102. Present data year. Daily sea surface water temperatures at the seaward end of the FRF pier (Table 15 and Figure 29) experienced large varia- tions in June, July, and August when frequent offshore winds blew warm surface water seaward, allowing upward and landward circulation of much colder and more turbid bottom water. Onshore winds reversed this circulation, piling up warm surface water against the shoreline, with a resulting seaward flow along the bottom. 103. From January through March (Figure 29), monthly mean water temper- atures averaged less than 10° C and increased about 5° C per month from March through June. These mean values remained nearly constant and greater than 15° C from July through October. During the remaining two months of 1982, temperatures decreased at about the same rate as the spring increase, i.e., 5° C per month. 104. The annual average water temperature during the year was eo C. with a standard deviation of 1.9° C. Less than 1 percent of the time (3 days) during the year the temperature exceeded a (Figure 30). 105. 1982 versus previous years. Daily temperature variations were typical of those during other years. Due to a mild summer and winter, 1982, as a whole, was a moderate year in comparison to previous years; fewer occurrences of temperatures above 20° C and below 5° C were observed (Figure 30). Differences during the summer season were, in part, due to the frequent onshore winds and high wave activity during September, 1981, which tended to keep the water warm. The period during October to December 1982 was the warmest of all periods during the 3 years of data collection (Figure 31), 65 TE70°T GiZ0°T 9f£20°T 1220°T 6T20°T 9Td0°T gTcO°T €cc0°T HECO°T cSc0°T BECO°T EnZO°T OS20°T Otc0°T 0SZ0°T Tic0°T GEcO°T G2c0°T 0cc0 T ST2O°T TEZO°T €ncO°T 79¢0°T 7S20°T OSZ0°T 32SZ0°T 1220°T 6£20°T TEZO°T gTcO°T €Tc0°T ctc0°T Téc0°T GT20°T G2c0°T Ofc0°T TecO°T 9E2ZO°T LHZO°T cuo/ qTsueg 1948mM aDeJAinS ves uBoW T°? 6°0 6°0 €°t T’e Ore Lee Gre Sec T°? EO G°T °T SoS 6°0 O°T oT 6°2 Hee g°t 6°€ L°2 G°a’ O°T q°T €°T 9°T 6°0 g°0 O°T o°T 1 6°T Ore G°T L°T cal L°T H°T tH °? O°T O°T 9°T o°o Het 9° t LG 9°e o°o Chae G°T q°T FTTIQTSTA 199eM 9OBJAINSG Beg UBSW B°ET 2°6 9°ET G°gt 1°22 G°2d 9°T? °6T 9°ST G°OT g°S T°t 9°t ot 6°83 c°eT 0°6T T°de T°0¢ G°Qt e°9t GUE G°S Gee g°9 OSE G°) O°et G°LT O° td 6°22 O°t2 T°0¢ 6°HT 4°OT Les O°t Q°e e°rt Saale G*HT T°6T 6°T2 0°de 1°02 L°6T Q°sT 6°6 €°9 Let eet DQ ‘Saunzeteduiey, 1938M adejang Beg uBAW ° Tenuuy 2aq AON 220 das ony Tne une ray ady IBN qeu usr YZUOW SOTJSTA9}ZOBVICYD 19}eM VOeJAING Beg UBEW GT eTaeL TTe128a0Q TQ6T ZQ6T TTB1aaQ Og6T TQ6T ZQ6T TT#129A0 Og6T Tg6T ZR6T IB9T 66 TEMPERATURE( C) TEMPERATURE (DEG C) JAN FEB OMAR APR MARY JUN AL RUS sep oct wOv Oc TIME Figure 29. Daily sea surface water temperatures for 1982 ~ ANNUAL 80-81 ANNUAL $= 1982 0.01 0.10 1.00 10.00 25.00 50.00 75.00 90.00 99.00 99.90 99.99 PERCENT GREATER THAN Figure 30. Comparison of annual sea surface water temperature distributions 67 TEMPERATURE (DEG C) JPN FEB RRR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOv OEC ANN TINE Figure 31. Mean surface water temperatures for 1980-1981 and 1982 again, at least in part, due to the higher frequency (in comparison to other years) of onshore winds during the season. 106. All years combined. Annual and seasonal temperature variations have been consistent from year to year. The addition of a third year of data made only a minor change to the annual distribution of surface temperatures. Visibility 107. Visibility in coastal nearshore waters depends on the amount of salts, soluble organic material, detritus, living organisms, and inorganic particles in the water. These dissolved and suspended materials change the absorption and attenuation characteristics of the water, which thus vary daily and throughout the year. 108. The surface water visibility at the seaward end of the pier varies in a similar manner as the temperature (Figure 32). Since the pattern of off- shore and onshore winds that produced major temperature differences also con- trols the visibility, the warm surface water is usually clear, while the cooler bottom water contains large concentrations of suspended matter. 109. Present data year. Daily water visibility values, measured at the seaward end of the pier using a secci disc (Figure 32), show that monthly means were the highest during July through August 1982, as were the standard deviations (Table 15) reflecting the wind-dominated processes discussed 68 LEGEND © MONTHLY MEAN VALUE VIS(BILiTY (M} Figure 32. Daily surface water visibility for 1982 above. Between April and August the visibility occasionally was greater than 5 m, but it was generally less than 4 m. During October to December, the visibility was less than 2 m 90 percent of the time. The annual mean visibility was 2.4 m with a 1.0-m standard deviation (Table 15). Figure 33 presents the cumulative distribution of visibility measurements for the year and indicates a median visibility of only 1.5 m. 110. 1982 versus previous years. The variability of the 1982 daily sea water visibility measurements was similar to that in previous years. With the exception of July and August, monthly mean visibility values were also similar (Figure 34). The 1982 annual mean was higher than the 1980 and 1981 combined value, primarily due to the exceptionally high visibility during July and August. Figure 33 shows the distribution of daily measurements was higher in 1982 in comparison to previous years. 111. All years combined. At the FRF, over 50 percent of the time the visibility at the surface can be expected to be less than 2m. Annual and seasonal visibility variations have been consistent from year to year. The addition of a third year of data did not change the annual distribution significantly. 69 VISIBILITY (M) VISIBILITY (H) ~ ANNUAL 80-81 ANNUAL 1982 0.01 0.10 1.00 10.00 25.00 50.00 75.00 90.00 99.00 99.90 99.99 PERCENT GREATER THAN Figure 33. Comparison of annual surface water visibility distributions JAN «6FEB «OMAR OAPR OMAY) «6JUN «OKLSCOAUGSCSEP = OCTT.-«Ss NOV. SCODEC:Cs ANN TIME Figure 34. Mean surface water visibility for 1980-1981 and 1982 70 Density 112. Present data year. Daily density measurements show a large varia- tion throughout the year (Figure 35 and Table 15). Monthly mean values (Fig- ure 36) generally varied inversely with water temperature such that maxima occurred during the cold months--January, February, November, and December-- and minima during the summer months (Table 15). The annual mean density was 1.0227 g/om> with an associated standard deviation of 0.0015 g/cm. 113. 1982 versus 1981. Variability in daily density values throughout 1982 was greater than that for 1981; however, the 1982 monthly and annual means (Figure 36) and distribution (Figure 37) were lower than those for 1981. This trend is reasonably consistent with a pattern of monthly mean temperature differences which indicate that 1982 temperatures were greater than those for 1981. However, during a few months this inverse relationship between tempera- ture and density did not occur, indicating that salinity differences were probably responsible for the density variations. These may have resulted from either large-scale circulation of nearshore water masses or locally-induced salinity changes due to rainfall. 1,029 LEGEND © MONTHLY MEAN VALUE DENSITY (G/CC) Figure 35. Daily surface water density for 1982 fl 82 o 81 o o ° S 3 6 oe c-) S x > S ° a wm Fe x Sa a (Ea nnn (ae | JAN FEB HAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV OEC ANN TIME Figure 36. Comparison of mean sea surface water density for 1981 and 1982 DENSITY {G/CC} 0.01 0.10 1.00 10.00 25.00 50.00 75.00 90.00 99.00 99.90 99.99 PERCENT GREATER THAN Figure 37. Comparison of annual sea surface water density distributions 72 Survey Data 114. Waves and currents interacting with bottom sediments produce changes in the beach and nearshore bathymetry. These changes can occur very rapidly in response to storms or slowly as a result of persistent but lower seasonal variations in wave and current conditions. 115. To document the temporal and spatial variability in bathymetry, surveys were conducted approximately monthly of an area extending 600 m north and south of the pier and approximately 950 m offshore. During March and July, 24 profile lines were surveyed. The remaining surveys consist of between 12 and 15 profiles each. These profiles were obtained using a Zeiss Elta-2 first-order, self-recording electronic theodolite distance meter in combination with the CRAB, a 10.7-m-high self-powered mobile tripod on wheels (Birkemeier and Mason 1984). In addition, soundings were taken on both the north and south sides of the pier. 116. In the following sections a brief discussion of the effect of the research pier on the bathymetry precedes discussions of time-histories of bot- tom elevations at selected locations along the pier and contour diagrams of the bathymetry. Pier effect 117. The research pier introduces a perturbation in bathymetry (Fig- ure 38) in the form of a permanent trough under the pier, apparently a result of the interaction of waves and currents with the pilings. The trough deepens under the seaward end of the pier and varies in shape and depth with changing wave and current conditions. The pier's effect on shore-parallel contours occurs as far as 300 m away, and the shoreline may be affected up to 350 m from the pier (Miller, Birkemeier, and DeWall 1983). History of bottom elevation 118. At the Baylor wave gage locations and other selected locations along the pier, a history of the bottom elevations is useful for interpreta- tion of the data (Figure 39). Variations of elevation under the pier are due to natural processes (such as profile changes due to bar movement) as well as scour due to the interaction of the pier piles with waves and currents. At the beginning of the year, the scour hole at the 579-m location was 8-1/2 m deep and the trough elongated to the north. A small fillet (at -1 m) formed at the landward end of the pier, near 189 m, during February. The fillet 73 Pessw i SS “a ! ATED U1 TALI i BRUTE) Og H le bg ) yy, CO Ef ERLE B | BEER RRL LIS { Wane AD Oo) ¢, eS, &, C q AN f\ oy CO &, Y, Gq? SS | ERRRRRM OOIS > 1 BEARER) Wee x2 i ERROR KOLO wy t BROOOY O) SY KX) () ) ) ) © O > > | AIO ZEAL KR KX D EEL IRSP RIO KY a r f, ZELLER Kg IISA KNX SSO KSAOCAX © AN SOCKS IX) SESOOAWOOO AAA) OOD) ECE” PS) Sam Sean NS SZ OLED ® Sse (= - oe a * (yj) Permanent trough under the FRF pier (14 July 1982) Figure 38. 74 0.0 DISTANCE tm -1.0 163 -2.0 -3.0 -4.0 = ce se th a w 2) wm -8.0 -7.0 rus} -8.0 79 -9.0 -10.0 JAN FEB MAR RPR WAY JUN JUL RUG SEP OCT NOV OEC 1982 MONTH a. North a0 OISTRNCE cm) -1.0 =2.0) 1 -3.0 -4.0 = xr Ss sh) a w o Bra) : ea a -7.0 3 -8.0 S79 -3.0 -10.0 JAN FEB MAR APR HAY JUN JUL Aus SEP OCT NOV DEC MONTH b. South Figure 39. Time-history of bottom elevations at selected locations along the FRF pier, Baylor gages 625 and 615, at 579 m and 189 m, respectively became larger in April and remained through August. The trough continued to shoal through the summer and became more symmetric about the pier axis. During this time, the scour hole reached a minimum depth for the year of 7-1/2 m. Dramatic changes occurred in response to the October storms. The high waves and strong currents scoured out the trough, the scour hole depth increased to 8-1/2 m, and the fillet at the landward end of the pier was eroded away. Only minimal changes occurred during the remainder of the year. Bathymetric surveys 119. Contour diagrams created from the data obtained during the bathy- metric surveys are presented in Appendix C; characteristics of the bathymetric conditions are discussed below. Birkemeier (1984) provides a detailed discus- sion of the nearshore profile changes. 120. Figure 40 shows the location of the profile lines surveyed away from the pier during the monthly bathymetric surveys. 121. The bathymetric survey on 5 January (Figure 41) shows a trough under the pier extending 50 m north and 100 m south with a deeper scour hole dominating the seaward 180 m. A wide but fairly stationary storm bar (250 to 400 m) traversed the survey area interrupted only by the trough under the pier. In addition, the nearshore was dominated by a smaller but very mobile bar and trough system. 122. Little change is visible on the 9 February survey (Figure C1). The hole at the end of the pier (180 m) had filled in slightly and diminished in size. A small amount of shoaling (200 m) was also visible 350 m south of the pier. 123. Very little activity was observed in the 18 March survey (Fig- ure C2). Some shoaling of the storm trough (250 m) was visible 150 to 400 m north of the pier, and a minor amount of deposition in the trough under the pier had taken place. 124. By 21 April (Figure C3), the scour hole at the end of the pier (180 m) had been substantially reduced in area, though the depth remained con- stant. The storm bar and trough (200 to 400 m) remained stable with only minor changes visible on the nearshore bar (125 m), except under the pier where a pronounced 25-m seaward migration of the bar crest had produced a prominent seaward bulge in the -1 m contour line. 125. The next survey on 2 June (Figure C4) showed the nearshore bar (175 m) had been replaced by a fairly featureless slope. The storm trough 76 DISTANCE (M) 6S0 DISTANCE (M) * Quarterly. Figure 40. Profile locations at the FRF PROFILE $8 were cern emny s a oo &, '&, OS Pm BER oy e222 e2yvoF Foy leaded ete Seq e OY ean ieee ina ae alone one » a= oo) Seeswe ewer" Ft taet Os v Pate a tT Weta et -3 0 ° GOR we = ant eee ot cp = Sess ee =-— 0°O 4.0 eS? © eeeen (W) JONULSIO BS wwe BOP @@ Sew. SS 2- oeeun awesome = So SSS S power es errree== eo 0 [c= ee ae nes eee Few S Seeeeeen » Ss Sewmre ee oem es oe = Se eae O°F- “S bet ratty) 6PM meee 2 ome oe ? v ele eae loo ? v ee O"F- Sige em Mone, 6S0 8S0 450 DISTANCE (M) Contour diagram of FRF bathymetry, 5 January 1982 Figure 41. 78 (250 m) widened in two areas, 375 m north and 400 m south of the pier. The trough under the pier intruded farther into the storm bar (300 m) having mi- grated 100 m farther south. 126. The 14 July survey (Figure C5) shows continued shoaling of the trough under the pier. The scour hole at the end of the pier had again shifted and extended seaward of the pier end. The storm bar (300 m) remained unchanged; however, the nearshore bar and trough (175 m) were completely removed. 127. Only minor changes were visible on the 24 August survey (Fig- ure C6). These included some erosion along the beach step (150 m) and an equal amount of deposition on the foreshore slope (100 m). 128. Two poststorm bathymetric surveys were conducted during October. The first survey on 16 October (Figure 42) shows some notable aspects of the transition from summer to winter. First is the prominent nearshore bar and trough (100 to 150 m) created during this storm. This feature was built as a result of erosion (up to 1 m) at the base of the foreshore (120 m) creating the trough and a corresponding amount of deposition which built the bar (Figure 43). The trough under the pier deepened, and the scour hole at the end of the pier expanded shoreward; only slight changes were visible on the offshore bar and trough (200 to 400 m). Since the second survey on 27 October (Figure C7) followed a major storm (as compared to the 16 October survey which was also poststorm), many of the observable changes during the month are not as dramatic as they would have been had there been a prestorm survey. How- ever, the second survey of the month shows a dramatic further deepening of the pier trough (north of the pier) and of the scour hole. Both the nearshore (100 to 500 m) and the offshore (200 to 400 m) bar systems continued to develop as their troughs deepened and deposition occurred on the bar crests. Significant amounts of accretion were also visible on most of the foreshore (50 to 150 m) extending from the toe of the dune to MSL. 129. The next survey on 6 December (Figure C8) shows a continuation of the prominent nearshore bar and trough with some deposition occurring in the trough under the pier and in the large scour hole at the end of the pier. South of the pier the storm trough (300 m) deepened significantly; however, the same did not occur north of the pier. 130. In summary, fairly minor bathymetric changes occurred from January to September; however, following a storm in mid-October and a major storm late 19 PROF ILE 58 62 73 85 135 155 161 169 174 erceeececeeee le? °F Fn eeeacnce = OCOoTl coor 006 008 002 009 00s OOv (W) JONVLSIO 183 188 189 weecerFM@=men, ff ereeea, = 630 450 DISTANCE (M) Contour diagram of FRF bathymetry, 16 October 1982 Figure 42. 80 LEGEND DQ) EROSION 2 ee === — Sf v a $20 So SUIT) GSES aS eas eS Neti a SILLS oott ooo! i Ib : Peak spectral wave period distributions. Annual, seasonal, and monthly peak wave period distribution bar charts for 1982 are pre- sented in Figures B5, B6, B18, B26, and B34; data for 1980 through 1982 are in Figures B11, B21, B29, and B37. Persistence of wave heights. Tables B5, B13, B21, and B29 show the number of times throughout 1982 when the specified wave height was equaled or exceeded at least once during each day for the duration (consecutive days) indicated; data for 1980 through 1982 are in Tables B9, B17, B25, and B33. For example, for gage 625 (Table B5) wave heights equaled or exceeded 1.0 m 54 times for at least 1 day; 34 times for at least 2 days; 26 times for at least 3 days; 17 times for at least 4 days; etc. Therefore, on 20 occasions one would expect the height to have equaled or exceeded 1.0 m for 1 day exactly; on 8 occasions for 2 days; on 9 occasions 3 days; etc. Note that the height exceeded 1 m 54 times for 1 day or longer, while heights exceeded 0.5 m only 18 times for this same duration. This occurred because the longer durations of lower waves may be interspersed with shorter, but more frequent, intervals of higher waves. For example, the one time that wave heights exceeded 0.5 m for 109 days may represent 5 or 10 times the height exceeded 1 m. Wave roses. For gage 625 (pier-end Baylor), wave roses showing the distribution of wave height versus approach angle are presented. 1982 data are in Figures B7 and B8, while 1980 through 1982 data are in Figures B12 and B13. The angles are referenced to true North. Northerly wave angles (less than 70 deg) generally produce southward currents, while southerly wave angles (greater than 70 deg) produce northward currents. Spectra. Spectra for gage 625 (pier-end Baylor) for days when wave heights exceeded 2 m are presented in Figure B38. The plots show energy density as a function of wave frequency for all available times throughout the day. B2 wy 9°O w OOT uy € uy S°0 aioyg wor aoueystq 1S eT o°8 snonut quo) wor) 04 G°T- snonut quo) 2M w0S.St SL x N MUCHOLA 9 Smee See E TOS auTjTeseq/1etd % Deen peyeutw4s4y uoTyeTTeysut SpeTtey FuULLOOW 2g any 92 gl AON (OT9 928D) Japtseaey o10ysseeN peatedsi ase ken ) a3e2 peszewep SutTuyysty zg adv gz gl AON (ST9 eden) 107, keg e10ysiBeN 99699 NS ZQ AON 62 YYTA peoeTdey peTtes suTsoon 28 AON Od 2Q 41BW OE 19699 NS 4U9TA 99699NS pecetdey 28 TPN OF gl AON (029 aveH) Teptieaem aroyss JO sue Tqoud aioCew ON gl AON (Sc9 eden) z0TAeg pug-tetd uoT}eueTAxXy uoT}e1edQ UOT }e108dQ aiedoig dJedoig jo jo puy SuTuutTsog M iL*tt GGL x N .T°TL 9 (UaATS sozeu -Tpi00o. jo aNd W 6gT) Od+9 24S 49Td (fetd quad gO pus pieMeos JO ANA wy G°c) M eth ooh x M peOw oot (UaATS Saqeu -Tp1000 jo aNa Ww 61S) OO+6T #98 4eTd UOT}BO0T fonqg JayawosaTao0y JJ@YS OITA snonut}uo09 fonqg Ja ,oUotaTI00y JJeqys 1TH snonuT4uo9 eae jo adh, ee eee — es HCQOL LOJ SEeTIOYSTH OBBD aaeM Td 9T9eL B3 HE(GHT, M PERIOD, S JAN 1982 JUL 1982 FEB 1982 HAR 1982 SEP 1982 OCT 1982 MAY 1982 JUN 1982 O-NHWeuUOC-NUZHVOK-NUESNOHK-NUSNOK-NUeUOR- KWo 1 3 5 7 9 Wh U3 15 17 19 at a3easaasu) 3 5 7 THB HMwasnaAAT A DAY OF THE MONTH a. Wave heights JAN 1982 JUL 1982 MAR 1982 IN "SVAN AN A APR 1962 padyryt 7 MAY 1982 OCT 1962 NOV 1982 DEC 1982 we ALA Dae su 1 3 5 7 @ th U3 tS 17 19 21 23 a awawasniss FannpnsevwrewasaBHe AH DAY OF THE MONTH b. Wave periods Figure B1. Time-history for gage 625 BY Table B2 1982 Wave Statistics for Gage 625 Standard Standard Mean Deviation Mean Deviation Period Period Extreme Number Month Height, m Height, m _sec _ sec Height, m Date Observations Jan Jo® 0.5 8.6 3.0 2.9 1 96 Feb 1.2 0.6 8.8 2.4 Byal 18 102 Mar 0.9 0.3 8.2 2.2 22 i 107 Apr 1.0 0.4 Yod 1.8 2.5 28 89 May 0.8 Ors 9.5 1o 220 12 121 Jun 0.8 0.4 9.1 2.6 168 10 V4 Jul 0.5 0.2 Toe 2.4 Vod 1 105 Aug 0.6 0.3 od 2.4 2.1 29 120 Sep 0.9 0.3 Toll 2.0 1.8) 30 118 Oct Ios 0.7 OF So I 3365) 24 123 Nov ilewl 0.6 8.4 Sil 2.6 23 115 Dec 1.0 0.6 9.8 305) 2.9 12 102 Jan-Mar 1.0 ORS 8.5 2.5 Bo tl Feb 305 Apr-Jun OS 0.4 8.8 22 25) Apr 327 Jul-Sep OPN 0.3 708 2oe 251 Aug 343 Oct-Dec 102 0.6 9.4 33083 3355) Oct 340 Annual 0.9 0.5 8.6 Boll 3355) Oct 16315 B5 HEIGHT (METERS) Ss) a CSI) i ae © @ © @ & = = 1 2 - 4, 9 5.00 - GREATER TOTAL HEIGHT (METERS) 150 - 4.99 -0 = GREATER TOTA HEIGHT (METERS) a0 - 4.79 7.00 - GREATER TOTAL Table B3 Height Versus Peak Period for Gage 625 ANNUAL PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD PERIOD (SECONDS) ‘l= ihe Ble Sle Bde Fede Boe a) i) Eo) a) OD ODL SS {cme 2 ee met. gmemeg 1 9 a OCG 7 6 UO G oR 1 g 4 Se Peg. ste ime Ce Be ks \ § HW iy oH) 8 tap SEASONAL JAN-MAR PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD 9.0- 10.0- 10.9 PERIOD (SECONDS) i> Ale Ge Sie Ge Te Eble Sele A00s eg) eG) Ge) eG) oe) Th) «HOLS Ta me” REM NG Siar IC a (&) 6) & @ Se FR 1m ) Fh a wn SPAY RoR mae! hay mesg wy aly Wea aatii- MEMO het (eae ; a OARS IC 0 © & Ge (ah 088 We 8) AGE SEASONAL APR-JUN PERCENT OCCURRENCE(N10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD PER 10D (SECONDS) 1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 3.0- cp eee) OAD OE) KO EL) 80 a as Me ea 3 ®@ S| OW @ Gi) eR jey RR (Continued) B6 9.0- 10,0- 10.9 11.0- 11.9 Ala= 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER 12.0- 14.0- 1 13.9 fil 7ien25 a G8 5 9 9 4 2 ns ow al Bi 1982 Annual and Seasonal Joint Distribution of Wave hoe 17. 16.7? LONGER 2.0- 14,0- 17.0- 36 3 3 7 i 3 30 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- 11.9 ag 13 iz +7 16.9 LONGER & 21 pi 3 36 3 é TOTAL TOTAL TOTAL Table B3 (Concluded) —————— SEASONAL JUL-SEP PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HE IGHT (METERS) PERIOD( SECONDS } TOTAL 1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- Be) al) Bo) oo We lo Vo NaH? Wak? Hoe) ee 9 ‘LENGER 0.00 - .49 : 3 6 fe) a NW aS MY : 317 on) © ay : G ig 3h fa) oY Se rs | a ab 3 6 : 434 1.00 - 1.49 f : 5) P26) a0 Ne 202 6 : c 166 1.90) = 1.99 . 6 : 9 9 2 : . c : : : : 30 2.00 - 2.49 : : : : 3 6 : : : : ¢ ; 6 3 onl) > Baek) h 3.00 - 3.49 i) 3.00 - 3.99 0 4.00 - hee : a C : . : c : c : 3 : : 0 4.90 - 4.99 : : : f : : : : : 6 : C c y) 5.00 - GREATER : 0 : : : . : : : . c : : y) TOTAL 0 DG ab ei EN ON ea) ead 0 SEASONAL OCT-DEC PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HE IGHT (METERS) PER IOD( SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- G.0- 9.0- 10.0- t1.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- Cate deG Ao Segond) ied Bed ro Ono eunlh eels. elonv LONGER 0.00 - .49 0 : : ‘ : 12 : 3 6 3 a als : 42 oa!) = athy : : Wy Pe a a a 4b2 1.00 - 1.49 fc c tm is Gy Sn cael 4 2 6 : 232 1.50 - 1.99 : c : ake als : : 13 Gy 2h 2 . 119 2.00 - 2.49 c : c : 9 WANE : & We 2 32 3 101 CaS OR Sete) 0 c : 6 : : : : 6 12 n) 30 3.00 - 3.49 0 3 5 3 12 foal) = ala) 3 3 $ 4.00 - 4.49 0 4.00 - 4.99 . : 0 3.00 - GREATER : : c : : : : : * : : 0 0 TOTA Ot See 67 ee 2 2c 4 2 tee te Od cre B7 1982 Monthly Joint Distribution of Wave Height Table B4 Versus Peak Period for Gage 625 MONTH JAN PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HE IGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0= 920) 40-)5,0-> b.0- 7-0-. 820=) F000 OS tan0= 14505 ti 20e 2G) WEG) AS99589) G9) 79 WIS39) So) ONS BS otii9 Sign? 16.9 LONGER 0.00 - .49 0 : : : : - WW WB ra : 10 c 2 on) oth) C Se tt ae gh 2 10 HO a 3 Be : 020 1.00 - 1.49 ; o = oil yf 42 10 31 al : c : 228 1.90 - 1.99 2 ae : 10 10 : : 124 2,00 - 2.49 Ko ' 10 : : 4i Lah) 2 Sows a : 10 . ‘ 0 10 3.00 - 3.49 : : : : f : ‘ : : 0 Sloat) = Sov) ; : : : : : : : : 0 4,00 - 4.49 F : : : : : : ' : . : dl 0 4.00 - 4.99 - : , : c . C C 0 : : : : ) 5.00 - GREATER . c . : : : : : : : ‘ c ; i) FOTAL i) 0 52 124 #135 146 94 40 82 135 94 93 0 MONTH FEB PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL How soe Bot alo fale Foe oe Golde Mite Ne Ae Ae Waals Bo) a? Bo#) he Mau) Yow — ot) Yat) ae? Wag) slo) ab LR? 0.00 - .49 0 : - : 0 c : c : : c A : 0 on) oth : c q 10 c A 49 118 118 : to =: 10 373 1.00 - 1.49 c a a) ) so 8 MW of Gh ay Me 0 334 haat) 2 Hath) c : 0 & Tf & AD c c : id : . 147 2.00 - 2,49 0 : c 7 0 & 10 . P 10 ; : 49 aod!) > BoShl c 0 : : : : : NO A AY : : 60 3.00 - 3.49 : : : : : c o ~~ AA) : c 20 JeoU - 3.99 c . : : c c : : : : 0 4,00 - 4,49 c : : 6 , ¢ , : : : d 4.00 - 4,99 - : 9 c : : : : : ) 9.00 - GREATER : : 9 F c : : ¢ : : : : : d TOTAL 7 10107) it Gur 7 nn © nr O17 2/27) 9 OLLG HONTH MAR PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) FERTOD(SECONDS) TOTAL Nos tot Gol wall Goll Fae Gi Fo MW= Wate We Wala Weis 2. Bo) ab? Bag) oc) oS) So) fl) 4) ie 9 13.9 16.9 LONGER 0.00 - .49 0 , c : . . . c : 19 : : 19 oat) & oh) : : ay PS) a} UN} AY) c 643 1.00 - 1.49 : a Ss ees y Wi ae : c a 280 Hark) = Wath) : c ‘ 0 a : - 9 9 : c i Z.00 - 2.49 : : , 0 : a 19 6 0 9 : : 28 Boal) = Zoek) ; : : : : 6 c : c F c 0 5.00 - 3.49 : : : . : : : a c ‘ : 0 Hoa) = Bash) : : a : . . c : : 6 4,00 - 4,49 c : : : : : . a : i) 4.00 - 4.99 : : : . : : : . a : 9 0 : 0 3.00 - GREATER : C : : c F . c : : ¢ ci : 0 TOTAL 0 MAS ay) HY) 0 0 (Continued) (Sheet 1 of 4) B8 Table B4 (Continued) MONTH APR PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL loti doe Boe aol Go Poll HL Foe = ha Ae Me ioe eo) od BoP a oe? Toe Bo Tae? Mae) Na Malo) Wisae? Musial 0.00 - 49 : es, Sis Pe ae 22 50-499 Ba Wao Meast, Ride Wo) Ree igs: a I a Ae: 540 1.00 - 1.49 Sa. G56) maT oni79s, Caged 22" Ti) ORME | Ic, 337 1,50 - 1.99 : iy ptt eee" wh, Basi aie) het ee Oe 78 2.00 - 2.49 NY he CEO Rese. See, FS i! 2.50 - 2.99 : NG gs. AS) cee mec Nr BB: i! 3.00 - 3.49 eee) ae Dean Poe aE ee ee, Se 0 3.50 - 3.99 ; an ; ; 9 4,00 - 4.49 : 4.50 - 4.99 0 5.00 - GREATER Om aoe ear Tey IMC eae” Meat een MEE Ge 0 oem 0 TOTAL One) WEB) SRTBi mies) 9247) Uelas) AISBUN NGO eam) MUON ann! mC MONTH NAY PERCENT OCCURRENCE’ «10) OF HEIGHT AND PERICD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL han Bolle Ae Boe oll TOUS Boe Woe NO Mode Woe MWe Wills 709) Bos) BS) Sot) a ot lo) ok) MG NO) Ae aot) Oi Rets 0.00 - .49 : - 6 : c : fay en 29 a 8 : : 107 oa) © thy : : c Ch Oe UD : 8 694 1.00 - 1.49 ; 6 : a : g i? 10/7 17 Lack) = Hah) : : P : c c : : : oY 23 2.00 - 2.49 : 0 : : : : : 0 : : : 8 c 8 Zeal) = Bah : : : . . : 4 3.00 - 9.49 c : : : : 0 Saal) > 3.97 : : c Wy) 4.00 - 4.49 a c : : 0 0 . : : : ¢ ; : ) 4090 - 4.99 é : 0 : : : C : : . ¢ : : 0 5.00 - GREATER ; ; , ; : , : : ; : : ; k TOTAL ) © 10 9 23 OAV Me ame ae sy fe ee MONTH JUN PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10} OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL NeW got Clo sa a= alle Eo oe WS ae We We ott ow 9 Moy Ho Blak? a) Woo) Mis) Sista? sob) el ehh 0.00 - .49 : : : : o a &8 yey : 17 9 155 ool) > othl : YD WP BY TT) 9 ol 17 991 Holi) > Healy) : : 9 7 c yah a 9 : : 207 Neh) 2 Neth : : : : 9 ONY ; : 2 2.00 - 2,49 : c : : ; c . : : : : : 0 Zoe) © Loki c : : : : : : : . 0 3.00 - 9.49 0 : : : : : 0 Sool) = Slayh) : : : : : . 0 4.00 - 4.49 : : 0 4,50 - 4.99 : : - - : : 3 : : a 3.00 - GREATER c : : : : c 0 : : c : : : 0 TOTAL 0 Na GR IAP TAL eS] GH (Continued) (Sheet 2 of 4) B9 Table B4 (Continued) MONTH JUL PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HE TGHT (METERS) PERIOD( SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14,0- 17.0- Oo) a) 86) Be) OD ol? Do ae) baa) Mo? Weiob) asi 0.00 - 149 : mM 99 MW We We mw Me Gh oe tO c ood «0 > 699 : ye) Gee EAP 2) C 5 . 364 1.00 - 1.49 : : 1) a . : : 5 . c 84 leat) 2 Aayh) A : : : . : : . : : : . c ty) Poll) > roth) : : 0 feat) S Boek) . . . 0 9.00 - 3.49 ' 0 3.00 - 3.99 . 0 4,00 - 4,49 : 0 4.90 - 4,99 . 0 5.00 - GREATER : 0 TOTAL 0 20 8 95 {114 124 105 229 115 86 10 19 0 MONTH AUG PERCENT OCCURRENCE(%10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD‘ SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- 2.9 0359 94.9 5.9) 96.9 9729 98.9 909 1009) Ae9 i909) 16.9) LONGER 0.00 - 49 A ‘ : i 5¢.«(«100s 42—sé«éZF 42 5 iy kl - 401 200 - 99 , 8 25 42 167) 125 50.0 33ts«S4 17 8 8 : 329 1.00 - 1.49 B 5 a Sires 8 : 8 : : ; A ;: 49 1.50 - 1.99 ‘ ti ; a 8 8 a 6 : ‘ by 3 , 16 2,00 - 2.49 ‘ 5 5 : 8 : ‘: : A : A ‘ : 8 200) =) 2099 ; 0) 3.00 - 3.49 0 3,90 - 3.99 i) 4.00 - 4,49 0 4.50 - 4,99 P ; é , : : 3 : i , ; js : d 5.00 - GREATER ‘ A i i A é é Fi 5 j 3 : : 0 TOTAL 0 El 75) 50. «258 = 241 92 108 84 Wi a) 41 0 MONTH SEP PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERTOD(SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- {Li.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- Z.9 9.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER 0.00 - .49 c : : c : 8 8 8 : c : : : 2 0 - 299 : i“ gas ef) GRD GS NY : 8 : 200 1.00 - 1.49 : : o oh iy aml sl op eh : 396 hack) > ashy : : 0 6 UG OS c 0 . 0 : : 67 2.00 - 2.49 : : : a : : 0 2.50 - 2.99 0 3.00 - 3.49 : c ‘ 0 : 6 : c 0 c : . c i) Rr) em hb 0 : c : c : : . 0 : : : c 0 4,00 - 4.49 : : : c : 6 : : : 0 : : c 0 Aad = 4.99 c : : 6 : 0 3.00 - GREATER : : : : : : : : c : c : : 0 TOTAL d Qa GES 2B) RN es OE) eh a i) (Continued) (Sheet 3 of 4) B10 Table B4 (Concluded) MONTH OCT PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0- 3.9 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- B.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- 793.9 4.95.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 The9 LONGER 0.00 - 49 eS es il Cem ean a aH Met 2 50-499 Ue Soe ie oka sioe Gide Wade PAS Wei A78e Madame 365 1.00 - 1.49 cf) cae Ao Cay Rta Oim Ue ietGonnad, Bye Sile URBeln yas 277 1.50 - 1.99 ee ime he War cue RT a clamaik sy 7M uss 155 2,00 - 2.49 Sk Shh wife ae erin eit, aR SER None. ter vise casein Ali om 8 73 2,50 - 2.99 epee age CBM! cio cape cere blRDb Sibert 5 3.00 - 3.49 pear a alg eh ae main, SBR Mae aN orc S10 elm waar 2 3.50 - 3.99 Uae ae Ae eM aes Pei Se Oe ian tan. ine MOE mt, 16 4,00 - 4.49 ec ae ee en aa ae ce 0 4.50 - 4.99 any ae |e nee ee Na en 3 0 EMOOREAGREGIER | Fh. ie Ue ae a ae ) TOTAL 0 0 9) OG Te Oe is) A) MONTH NOV PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PER IOD( SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- Tie) Be) BOG) TRG) aS) eo) ae) Go EGP) elo) Wook) Minas 0.00 - .49 c . ¢ : : 9 F 9 : eo : 44 on) S othy : : 2 Gio Let 04 lec 4 3) em 0 8a 494 1.00 - 1.49 0 : 5 MS NY : 9 9 : . paye Laat) > tee) . : : A | Wy : : : 17 : : ol 2.00 - 2.49 : 9 oh 9 fy aay SB : 139 Rol) = Bow : : : : : : : 17 : 17 3.00 - 3.49 : : c : : : : : 0 Saal) > ark) c : 6 : c ; : : : : : 6 4.00 - 4.49 : : : : : : 0 4.00 - 4.99 : : : : . c 0 3.00 - GREATER : : : : . : 0 TOTA ( OQ Wh Me) ER Sek) ET AY MONTH DEC PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD( SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- Zo) Bos) Go) Boe) oo) ae? Go? NG) ae) Helo) age? WMeltisrels 10 : 10 = 10 : 10.20 ‘ 50 0.00 - 49 : : 9 c 0 70 > 199 : : (00ers eer Ce! Oh. ee oc) 497 939 1.00 - 1.49 : : 10 862007810 a . : : 2 10 P oF Losk) © Hath) : : 0 : 78 20 : - LO zt LOC : 148 Z.00 - 2.49 : : ; c 10 20 8 10 : > 2 102 : 90 Boal) = Rathi : c c c 10 : : : : : : : 10 3.00 - 3.49 : : : : : : : : : : : : 0 3.00 - 3.99 ' 0 : : c : : 0 : : : 0 4.00 - 4.49 c . : : : : ° : : : : : 0 4.50 - 4.99 0 : c : : : G 9.00 - GREATER : ¢ : . : : : : : : : : y) TOTAL 0 ® Ad &) fC 2a) HE) I} BR) ED UIE) — nny TEESE EERIE FEEEEEEEEESEnEr Pare (Sheet 4 of 4) B11 HEIGHT (M4) PERIOD (SECONDS) LEGEND x EXTREME O MEAN l +1 STANDARD DEVIATION x 3 x 2 ie x Wile nd 4 L | | i) JP? Gow Gh 2 2 oS oO fo SG) JS Oo EBco-cn TIME a. Wave heights 17 é LEGEND 1S O MEAN 3 l +1 STANDARD DEVIATION 13 12 it 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 J F MA A HM JY J A S BO N OD J-M A-J J-S 0-0 82 80-81 TIME b. Wave periods Figure B2. 1982 extreme, mean, and standard deviation of wave heights and periods for gage 625 B12 HE TGHT (METERS) HEIGHT (METERS) 7.0 ANNUAL 82 10° 10° 10' 10° PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED a. Annual BS a. JAN-MAR 82 NS i rc ie i yp gem laptsN APR-JUN 82 —~ juL-SEP 82 SED FOCT-DEC) 82 2 ___ ANNUAL 82 10° 10° 10° 10° PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED b. Seasonal Figure B3. 1982 annual and seasonal cumulative distribution of wave height for gage 625 B13 7.0 6.0 4.0 5.0 3.0 HE TGHT (METERS) 2.0 1.0 ] PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED 0! 5.0 4.0 HEIGHT (METERS) 3.0 2.0 1.0 1 1 PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED Figure BY. 1982 monthly cumulative distribution of wave height for gage 625 (Continued) B14 HEIGHT (METERS) HEIGHT (METERS) inen— Noy 10° 10° 10° PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED 5.0 4.0 3.0 Soak 2.0 1.0 0.0 0 1 10m 1 10 PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED Figure BY. (Concluded) B15 25 a ANNUAL 82 20 w o % “FON3eHNIDO 40 AONANOBY4 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- Sole Coe Sole Coe 7oOe hoe EhWs 7.9 1.0- 16.9 LONGER 10.9 11.9 13.9 9.9 8.9 Soe) GAS) So) LY) 2.9 PERIOD, SEC N oO a c = Zz c 5 APR-JUN 82 JUL-SEP 82 OCT-DEC 82 ESOS LZ] .AASSANANSN "29.0.0, 0.0,0.0.0.0.0.0.0.9.0,9.0.9.0.0°0.9:0.0 Eh hh nh nk) VWLBWCWAWCRRWAAeAa Vasa VeVeVaeaaasasasay CHIDIDDDaAIDIIaI Ia aaa TA DS AN AANASNAANSNSAASNSASNASNNVAVANSNAS SAAS AAS CT TT TT I ee ee eT ee KANAANSSASNSSSSSSS OTT TT TT TT TT TD KRANANANAASNNANNANANANNSNANANY I LD PAD AF AD LFA LF A LAT AD FLL LF LAD LP LT LD LF LL, RAVAN AANANNANANNNNAANANIAAAASSSS SASS CLIT APL ADA LAD ALD AP LLLP AD LD LT AL A AFD AALALG LF LD TTP RAYA AAN ASS SSASSSS ad ULL LL LL Pee ee ee) PAN SASSY ANSANSASSY IIT LF LFF RSSAAAASN w o w o % “ZON3uNIIO 40 ASNENOBYS 10.Q- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- 10.9 16.9 LONGER 13.9 11.9 9.0- 9.9 8.0- 8.9 7.9 PERIOD, SEC 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 1.0= 2.9 1982 annual and seasonal distribution of peak spectral wave period for gage 625 Figure B5. B16 LEGEND JAN 82 WB rece s2 950, [IKNAAAAANAAANSN SAAS BJ mar 82 = 3 2 Sts [NSSSSSSSSSASAASSY PERSSON RRO RRR AAAAANARAAAARELRARUEREEEE BECO IRR ROR KXAAMWASASASSY PataratareatatatacatatatatePetatatatanete'steceteterenaMet AARAAAT seMecetetetatararereseserecereceterersnevarererereceteteetelet leis RSS PatateceetatateSaateratareceterereteretetatereteretereteterateretet IKANAAAAAAAAAAASNANAAAANAAAANSY izeretereSeretozeteretereteseroreteretoren lazetefoteeteteraretefe IXNAASSASAAN % “JIN3YYNIDO 40 AINANOAYs 16.9 LONGER 1359) 11.9 10.9 9.9 8.9 B17 7.9 PERIOD, SEC 6.9 5.9 4.9 1982 monthly distribution of peak spectral wave period for gage 625 (Sheet 1 of 3) 1,0- 3395 4.0= S5.0= 60> 70> B202 5 950= 100 1.05 l2i0= 40> 170= 2.9 Figure B6. Bea 16.9 LONGER 13.9 11.9 SPS OO ie eae ea ae DS 10.9 KAAANAANAAAANAAAAANAAANAAAANAAANSSASS PE ox Or Se Ok SK Ore RR Oe RR 9.9 KANAAAANAAAAANAAAAANAAAAAAAAASSASAS 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- 1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 2.9 Paatatatatataratatatatanataratatateteretsretttetatetaretatets's MMe <0 INNAAANAANAANAANS AANAANAANSANASS i) 5 (=) Netetatetereteteretereterererererererere err ereere ere erer8 (3) i=) 4 AWAAAAANRLALTLLA TLL CERT TE CECE ELERC SELECT FD * erePerelererererevererereceerer0;© MLMEoZ) C6 AAARRALUVALLBRRPERARGCLSSC F7,) ARABARARRRRRRARAVELA' SSS ROR RE ol DASAMSA SASSY 9 RSSSSSSSSAAASSAAASY setetee oo eleletetetererere KS SY WANAAARARALLV .«: Ro) ve Be) ie) ART 1 oO. a] R 2 2 Y e ys R z g b 2 % “FINBYYNIDO 40 AINSNOIYs % “JONIYNYNIIO JO AONANOAYS 16.9 LONGER 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 (Sheet 2 of 3) 7.9 B18 5.9 6.9 PERIOD, SEC Figure Bé. 459 3.9 REPS SS SS SSS 16.9 LONGER ESOS SSCS 13.9 p> Wale Ue esi= We 11.9 aasattattateatettatcattatataeteatce'S” Mog - ition) o SI | OD O- q =O @o ROR DUO RENEE | O.. aN N ielteteetateterefereteteraceereretetateetattetazeereteroeraneerareeranoeteereeteer+ MIM D 20 wo SoS} Gal) 2.9 t oO rT 1 oO nel 1 oO . — as 20 5 Q 5 o % “FONSYYNIDO 40 AONSNDBYS PERIOD, SEC (Sheet 3 of 3) Figure B6. B19 dJazuoyT 10 (s)Aeq aatynoasuop T tee eee oe Se?) T 2 G© Lh OK 2 uw G OC Gt o L me At oO WE 7S 6 €T Me @he 8 eS ee ee ere G29 asey 10J SJUFTAeH 2ABM JO adUaISTSIOg CRbT Gd eTAeL B20 337.5 22.5 22.5 45.0 45.0 67.5 67.5 ej 8 OS Seer || 90.0 ¢ Sa Comal) 90.0 ¢ PIER ORIENTATION BEACH — e 112.5 135.0 JAN - DEC JUL - SEP RESULTANT RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.8M HEIGHT 0.6M DIRECTION 71 DEG DIRECTION 74 DEG 22.5 337.5 22.5 45.0 4s. 0 r) 67.5 = Wa 67.5 ° ‘S alate sulle ow wy 112.5 112.5 JAN - MAR OCT - DEC RESULTANT RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.9M HEIGHT 1.1M DIRECTION 65 DEG DIRECTION 68 DEG 67.5 HEIGHT, M 0 10 20 30 40 50 FREQUENCY, % 12.5 135.0 APR - JUN RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.8M DIRECTION 78 DEG Figure B7. 1982 annual and seasonal wave roses, reference true north B21 / PIER ORIENTATION BEACH 112.5 JAN RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.8M DIRECTION 62 DEG FEB RESULTANT HEIGHT 1.1M DIRECTION 60 DEG 22.5 45.0 67.5 a g 112.5 MAR RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.8 M DIRECTION 75 DEG Figure B8. 45.0 7 ae APR RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.8 M DIRECTION 73 DEG 45.0 g & 112.5 135.0 MAY RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.7 M DIRECTION 79 DEG 45.0 W. 67.5 eum! BH 90.0 JUN RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.7 M DIRECTION 82 DEG 1982 monthly wave roses, reference true north (Continued) 45.0 JUL RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.4M DIRECTION 82 DEG 45.0 67.5 Qa @ ‘@ — 90.0 AUG RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.5M DIRECTION 73 DEG SEP RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.8M DIRECTION 70 DEG 45.0 67.5 112.5 OCT RESULTANT HEIGHT 1.2M DIRECTION 75 DEG 337.5 22.5 45.0 67.5 a a Fes Va aaa |_| 90.0 12.5 NOV RESULTANT HEIGHT 1.0M DIRECTION 67 DEG 45.0 67.5 HEIGHT, M & 0 10 20 30 40 50 L| a 112.5 0 10 20 30 40 50 DEC FREQUENCY, % RESULTANT HEIGHT 1.0M DIRECTION 59 DEG Figure B8. (Concluded) B23 Table B6 1980 Through 1982 Wave Statistics for Gage 625 Standard Standard Mean Deviation Mean Deviation Period Period Extreme Number Month Height, m Height, m sec sec Height, m Date Observations Jan 1.0 0.6 8.1 3.0 2.9 1982 249 Feb le 0.6 9.1 2.5 3.1 1982 258 Mar 1.0 0.5 9.3 2.9 3.1 1981 294 Apr 0.8 0.4 8.6 2E5 25) 1982 238 May 0.8 0.4 8.6 2.3 2.7 1981 327 Jun 0.6 0.3 8.3 2.5 1.8 1982 265 Jul 0.6 0.3 8.0 2.5 105) 1980 201 Aug 0.7 0.5 8.4 Bo 301 1981 275 Sep 0.9 0.4 9.0 2.6 2.7 1981 272 Oct 1.2 0.7 9.0 3.0 Be 1980 343 Nov 1.1 0.7 8.8 3.3 3.5 1981 322 Dec 1.0 0.6 8.7 35 I 2.9 1980 277 Jan-Mar 1.0 0.6 8.9 2.9 361 Feb 801 1982 Mar 1981 Apr-Jun On 7 0.4 8A5 2.4 Boll May 830 1981 Jul-Sep Oi 0.4 8.5 Bol 301 Aug 748 1981 Oct-Dec Vol 0.6 8.8 3.1 3.5 Oct ga 1981 Nov 1981 Annual 0.9 0.6 8.7 2.8 3.5 Oct 3,321 1981 Nov 1981 B24 HE LGHT (M) PERIOD (SECONDS) we web wt ort @ WO LEGEND x EXTREME O MEAN | +1 STANDARD DEVIATION aay cya J Ff GG @ Ww 3 J ff S ON O JAW GE! 35 Oh Goer TIME a. Wave heights LEGEND O MEAN l +1 STANDARD DEVIATION Se a ai, ee A TES. 10) NG VO ISNA J-S 0-0 80-82 TIME b. Wave periods Figure B9. 1980 through 1982 extreme, mean, and standard deviation of wave heights and periods for gage 625 B25 1980 Through 1982 Annual and Seasonal Joint Distribution of Wave Height Versus Peak Period for Gage 625 HEIGHT (METERS) 1.0- 3.0- Ba) Sh 0.00 - 49 Z 50 - 99 b 1.00 - 1.49 1.50 - 1.99 2.00 - 2.49 2.50 - 2.99 ie 3.00 - 3.49 : 3.50 - 3.99 4.00 - 4.49 é 4.50 - 4.99 ees 5.00 - GREATER Ae tee TOTAL 6 8 HEIGHT (METERS) 1.0- 3.0- 7.9 3.9 0.00 - 49 2 150 - 99 il 1.00 - 1.49 B 1.50 - 1.99 2.00 - 2.49 2,50 - 2.99 : 3.00 - 3.49 3.50 - 3.99 : 4.00 - 4.49 ; 4,50 - : 5.00 ~ GREATER 5 TOTAL ie HEIGHT (METERS) 1.0- 3.0- Bo) Bos) 0,00 - 49 i 2 nai © Sh) 6 1.00 - 1.49 1.50 - 1.99 2.00 - 2.49 : Ao) 2 Lo 3.00 - 3.49 3.90 - 3.99 4.00 - 4.49 : ; 200 - 4,99 5.00 - GREATER ct hak TOTAL o 8 4.0- 5.0- 4.95.9 3 a ah i ae ie pa Te 4.0- 37 Table B7 ANNUAL PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD FERCENT OCCURRENCE (xX 3.0- Siow PERIOD (SECONDS) he Tele Bode T= M002 Mite 10 A) ee) Ge) GG) HOS) Tile) RLS) es lame Keeton hy er) me) 6 SY By 8S GR ey i eo yy 24 MMi hina eAGAAtalte HT onln Dio) eee fo Se) Be ss ee Me Sawn RON ets eis Gam ae aren erin aay PY fee i hh eiie aie eee eae {190 ALOT Un BTU GTI nI5z)mReONNIZ5 Mme SEASONAL APR-JUN PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD PER IOD( SECONDS} A= Je BOs Fe O02 fh (Oe MO Bo) Jie) eG) GG) OS HG) TEES m 9B ap OR A fe 9 iy SS SG GBR OR Bm MR Va oh ah i. 8 5 a a oa nny aa nae ae eC eet UP obama ws sigs 4 a wi {et Le aha aa ) OM TS 18 We oF @ a (Continued) 6.0- 6.7 Po one 9.0- 10.0- 10.9 PERIOD (SECONDS) Tee SDs es) ekg) SG) ey) ie) Bg me SB) RS a iy mG eee oe Ho Gy BD cae met 22 107-129 SEASONAL JAN-NAR B26 0) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD 68 bh) ey e 8 8 ee PIP oO — (ae) on 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0 13.9 11.9 78 16.9 LONGER gs mG eg eel » il Ol i fies a Ale No 16.9 LONGER 14.0- i7.0- 16.9 LONGER 2 poe Phe = fab TOTAL TOTAL TOTAL HEIGHT (METERS) - 4.9 100 - GREATER TOTAL HE IGHT (METERS) 0.00 - .49 awl) 2 oth) 1.00 - 1.49 1.c0 - 1.99 2.00 - 2.49 5.00 - GREATER TOTAL Nol 2.9 0 3.0- 3.9 K) 4 4,.0- 5.0- 4.9 «5.9 3 3 RSE: ae : 7 Table B7 (Concluded) PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD 150 SEASONAL JUL-SEP B.0- 9.0- 10.0- Blow) Gael Jat) PERIOD (SECONDS) Tiel 7.9 48 336 68 The er eG By NG) MG Tee eS ip Cece eee Bie So RN 144998152 B27 SEASONAL OCT-DEC PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD 140 PER IOD(SECONDS) We Gis Che Me 8.9 9.9 10.9 7 6 (2 10 vy 9 45 ee PS Tie Obi me GEE au LES? OfSS JERS eee talene7) Fos ibe bg md? im Th e PR 11.0- 12.0 Teo NTae9 15 2 2925 Geni ih yl a G eas ee 5875 13.9 - $4,0- 17.0- 16.9 LONGER 31 3 20 fans 3 ; ESnG 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- 11.9 16.9 LONGER TOTAL TOTAL Table B8 1980 Through 1982 Monthly Joint Distribution of Wave Height Versus Peak Period for Gage 625 MONTH JAN PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL Nee ale AO Bile ole Folded Fo Nia lol Wee NeW Nill os) Boo) Bo Bo} Bot? Fo So Pas) Mat) RAGS 13.9 16.9 LONGER 0.00 - .49 3 4 a 14 4 20 z. 32 8 12 8 : 132 na >) Gh) 24 MG 64 44 44 XT | ya pn ae £ Mz 1.00 - 1.49 0 : 64 72 «24 24 eae 12 2 256 1.50 - 1.99 F a 16 =. 35 4 2 2 12 8 108 2.00 - 2.49 4 12 4 4 8 8 2 20 7 Z ea) = Both) ‘ 4 4 16 3.00 - 3.49 : ‘ : é i) 3250 = 3.99 ‘ ‘ ‘ i ‘ 0 4.00 - 4.49 j ; : , j : i 0 4.50 - 4.99 i : : 5 ; : i : : ; A A ‘ i) 5.00 - BREATER ' ; 0 ¢ : 5 ‘ ‘ : : 3 ; i 0 TOTAL a S52 144 152 120 ce) We Ike 0 MONTH FEB PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD(SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- nh O- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- fig) 0) BG) So) GG) eG) EGS) Ge) OL) LS RG) HG.) (LOTR 0.00 - .49 ‘ 5 4 4 4 4 4 4 {2 Ne 49 pal) 2 bh) 4 4 I gh 2 47 US SB BR 43 8 4 416 1,00 - 1.49 8 ah 39 ah 74 OG 27 8 é 285 oa) > Hoh) ‘ 2 cy 12 12 31 8 B 8 s 164 200) = 2089 : 12 4 2 8 19 59 Roa) = Zoe) : F : 4 8 4 12 28 3.00 - 3.49 ‘ j ‘ i F 5 , ‘ : 3 ‘ F : 8 3.50 - 3.99 ‘ ‘ j : ; i A ; F ‘ ‘ F ; 6 He - 4,49 A j , Fi ‘ : F F i é 5 F : 6 aod - 4,99 0 5 A ; 5 5 5 A 6 5 - 5 0 5.00 - pRESTER : . ij i 5 : t L j i ? F ‘ 0 TOTA 0 4 We Oe) AGE} KR] SAR? A) A) 4 MONTH MAR PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERTOD(SECONDS) TOTAL N= gle Ae Ba> Gol Wee Eo Foe Mn Noe Neo> Mics Notte Bo) Bo) Bo5) Fo) Go) oo) oe? NOo ANG Nh) Oot? LO eh: 0.00 - .49 i “4 ‘i 3 7 10 17 3 10 if 7 4 74 na) = WY A 7 24 37 48 41 38 69 85 58 4] é/ : 491 1.00 - 1.49 : 5 14 24 34 Ag F 1G 4] 1G 79 i : 2/3 Ha = 65h : 5 A 6 17 7 3 3 10 3 24 2 3 90 2.00 - 2.49 A : 0 F 7 0 3 Ri) 7 17 i 34 Zo) 2 2oGh) 3 7 0 3 3 a 10 ; es 3,00 - 3.49 3 f A ‘ : 3 : 6 alah) > BSH) ; : F 0 4,00 - 4.49 5 5 A 0 4,50 - 4.99 , ; i 0 9.00 - GREATER : A 5 A : A 6 5 A i i ; : 0 TOTAL d 7 38 61 102 102 95 95 = «1 42 B87 =i 7 98 3 (Continued ) (Sheet 1 of 4) B28 Table B8 (Continued) NTH APR PERCENT OCCURRENCE N10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HE IGHT (METERS) PER TOD( SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- Ze RIESe oe Lae Cie POEUN E GE aN Th MED Genet INNO ene dlnoeula eel G. 79) LONGER 0.00 - .49 : 4 . 4 3 oi a Gl I : 194 ofl) > aby : . it tO BW) ea sh) a ay 4 da7 Ha = Wakhy : : Wine BGT Ze itis eee lie mtr reek : ° : 206 Hoa) > hath) : : : : 8 4 8 13 Ata 8 5 : 38 2.00 = 2.49 0 : : 4 ¢ : : 4 8 : : ‘ 16 2.00) = 2.90 : : 4 : a c : 4 3.00 - 9.49 : : : a : 0 oat) > Sak : : : : 0 4,00 - ee : : : : : 0 4.50 - 4.99 . ‘ ‘ ‘ 7 : 0 : 0 3.00 - GREATER 6 0 : : : : : : : : : 9 TOTAL 0 Ay O38) 58) HOR 42) Sa) 4a 2) 028 Z9 34 4 AME HON PERCENT GCCURRENCE(Xi0) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL Note de o> wa na ote ta Ba ine tae aie AA 17) Bo) oth Moto) (ab a Ba) ok? Rae? oe Salo) int) LONGER 0.00 - .49 3 9) MI WHS, BS, RSS BSS 28) oe IG ete : 210 50 - 499 ; i 28 Oe bse) Flas) Ses Hee Gas Wea Eze). ee, ; 534 1.00 - 1.49 : ; SAG PIO G28, 3K SS. SAGs tei wits eo, 198 1.50 - 1.99 f : ‘ o 8 ; (age eeu ea Pn oe : 3h 2.00 - 2.49 f : 3 : 3 ‘ eee ares) Meee 15 2,50 - 2.99 ! : ; ; : oO EI na _ i : 3 3.00 - 3.49 f E : , , ; : E 5 0 3.50 - 3.99 ‘ : ; 3 0 4,00 - 4,49 : i : : : : : p 5 ; i : if 4.50 - 4.99 : 5 ' : : : ; : 2 2 4 0 5,00 - GREATER : , ; : : ‘ : i 4 Nea a TOTAL MONTH JUN PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD( SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17, ZOE S WARD) MeSEO MGED mdRo mG?) mo ON h0s 2) Mellin? Seige 9 aelGag LaNGER v.00 - 49 A 4 4 15 45 42 87 o7 34 8 4 15 4 319 ack) = ohh) 5 ii 45 4? 38 69 102 121 75 4 z 24 § 540 1.00 - 1.49 4 i a ti 8 4 & 26 38 19 4 : é 118 1.50 = 1.99 0 ; i : 4 5 4 ; 4 11 8 : ; 2 2.00 - 2.49 : q ; ; : 0 0 f : : 5 i] 2.00 - 2.99 o 0 : 5 : 5 0 3.00 - 3.49 ; : i i ; 0 ioakl) S 3, 99 : A 0 A ; 6 : 5 F D 6 ; 0 4.00 - 4.49 0 ; 0 A G 4 : 5 ; 0 4,50 - 4.99 : F z ‘i ‘ ; : : ; é é 0 3.00 - GREATER 6 i : . O 6 . c . 5 C C ; 0 TOTAL 0 15 49 68 95 114 197 204 lol 4? 16 4 lz (Continued) (Sheet 2 of 4) B29 Table B8 (Continued) a MONTH JUL PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PER TOD( SECONDS) TOTAL Nae dal ee 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- ab) ot) 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER 0.00 - .49 c i 1) 1) EY yA HY . 469 oe) ath : 5 § © © @D SS 6 8 & . 10 : 430 1,00 - 1.49 - : DY) a c . . : : 100 Hlaat) = Wok) c : : : 0 H) : : . : : : : r) 2.00 - 2.49 : : , C : : : : . . 0 : : 0 Boal!) 2 Bobh) c : : . : . : 0 3.00 - 3.49 : . ' c : n) 0 3.00 - 3.99 : : : : : ' : 0 4,00 - 4.49 : : . . : : : . : : : : i) 4.00 - 4.99 c : : : : : : : c . : 0 3.00 - GREATER c : : : : : 0 : : c : , 6 TOT 20 65 8 15 265 145 169 100 65 15 60 0 MONTH AUG PERCENT OCCURRENCE(K10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD(SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 98.0- 9.0-10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- oe) aes) Ao) Bo) he lok) Dot OG? tae? Hho) a) Te 0.00 - .49 4 fy ih RY 4 33 40 : 379 oa) 2 ashy ¢ 2 @ 8 88 me & WM @ Be Ww ii 451 1.00 - 1.49 c 0 | RSS 7 4 : 7 : : 90 Hoa) = Tové? c , c 7 7 4 c : 4 : 7 4 c 33 2.00 - 2.49 : : 4 : : : - Us 0 : 29 Boal) > Boshi 0 : : 4 4 4 : c a 12 3.00 - 3.49 . 0 4 : 4 c 8 Soa) > doe) 0 . : c : : c 0 4,00 - 4.49 . : : : : : : : : : : 0 4.0) - 4.99 : : : c ¢ : : : c 0 2.00 - GREATER c 0 : c ‘ c c : : : c : 0 TOTAL Wo A) eS) GRY RSS ta tn 7 MONTH SEP PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD He IGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- i10= 12505 14,05 17.0- 2.9 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 9.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER 0.00 - 49 a c : a : il HO 2 2 Piles 7 7 98 ca) = ath ; 0 18 iif 88 48 48 2a 107 9? 48 29 : 019 1.00 - 1.49 : : es eB Gb ay wy ASME eg} : 284 Noel) = Gh) : a : ti LOR! : 7 7 4 7 7 72 2.00 - 2.49 : : C : , : a : i 7 14 2,00 - 2.99 . : c : c P ' : : 7 C 7 3.00 - 9.49 : c : 0 : . : 0 Soak) © Baek : : 0 : : : : . : . : : c 6 4,00 - 4,49 : : , : : : : P c : : : : 0d 4,00 - 4, ° : 5 : : : : c c : 0 : : i) 0.00 - GREATER : : : : : : - 5 c : : : c ) TOTAL 0 0 18 48 168 92 81 51 180 66 117 48 7 (Continued) (Sheet 3 of 4) B30 Table B8 (Concluded) MONTH OCT PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HE IGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL Ho det Co oll Goll doe Bote Toe Hone WN aOS Wate Mai 70 for) Sloe) oh) Sa ot oe) lat? at) R@ae) la) isla? Rao [aNGER 0.00 - 49 : : - : . (MY 9 yw 6 : 81 ook!) S oth) : AA a a BS Gf 44° 47 —— 26 6 391 1.00 - 1.49 US) oN ye 38 6 0 239 1.50 - 1.99 (Sa) 6 We MY 9 : 134 2.00 - 2.49 C 15 12 ol 9 y n) we 3 87 Boal) = Baek) : : 6 6 12 3 3 9 6 6 31 3.00 - 3.49 : 0 c 6 3 : 12 Soa) 2 loyh) 0 ¢ a ) : : 3 9 4.00 - 4.49 : : c 6 : : : 0 4.00 - 4.99 a : a : : 0 5.00 - GREATER ¢ . : : . : ¢ : : : c : : 0 i 0 GB) ou Na ROE) GR SR 3 MONTH NOV PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD{SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0= 12.0= 14.0- 17.0- Rot) Bet) ol) le 659 79) 98.9 959) 1059 Lio 1929 1659) LONGER 0.00 - .49 : 5 6 : 3 9 4 ye cd Leez2 101 aad) Sth) 0 6 & & 8 @ & & mh wm My ah 6 429 1.00 - 1.49 : 0 eh RYN : ey 233 1.50! = 1.99 : : ) 4 8 3 o S fz ah 3 108 2.00 - 2.49 0 : 3 R| 9 0 3 6 @ 69 Boal) 2 BoGh) : o : R| 6 3 WZ 9 : 33 3.00 - 3.49 q : : 3 6 3 6 3 : 21 Goat) > gle) : : : : : c 6 : 6 4,00 - 4.49 c : : 5 : : 9 4.90 - 4.99 . : : : : : : F : c : : : G 0.00 - GREATER c : : : : 6 : 0 : : at : : 0 TOTAL 0 Oye GS SR) eH) aR) 7) 9 MONTH DEC PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HE IGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL Y0> 3.0> 4.05 9.05 620- 7.0 8.0-= 9.0 10,0— 11.0=12.0- 14.0- 1705 Hot) Bob) © shat) Bol) © Bo) Ho) Ho? Doe? MOG ha) fal) iS) (aNGER 0.00 - .49 : : 7 7 4 ya Ne ee 90 om) = oth) : SB diy GD RO GN YG Zee 44) 1.00 - 1.49 : i hh a Gh) a 1 eG en 1 18 4 271 load = 1G c : oO oO & 4 : 7 i 7 4 110 2200 = 2.49 : . : : 4 li 4 7 4 14 fl 7 62 Boll) > Math) : : : : : 4 c 7 4 4 11 30 3.00 - 3.49 : : : A : : ' : : c : 0 3.50 - 3.99 : : c : : : : : : c - yy 4.00 - 4.49 : : 9 : : : : : c : : : 0 4,90 - 4.99 : . : : : : : 0 2.00 - GREATER : : 0 : c : 9 : < : : : 0 TOTAL 0 Oo 8 8 ai ee se i SH OS) Ge (Sheet 4 of 4) B31 7.0 ANNUAL 80-82 HEIGHT (METERS) 3 10° 10° 10° ia PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED a. Annual é cou. JAN-MAR 80-82 rt Oe att) VE omaha, came Vo APR-JUN 80-82 JUL-SEP 80-82 TL Wer=0s0 0-82 ANNUAL 80-82 HEIGHT (METERS) 10° 10° 10 10° PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED b. Seasonal Figure B10. 1980 through 1982 annual and seasonal cumulative distribution of wave height for gage 625 B32 BB ANNUAL BO-82 wn o % “FJINBYYNIDO JO AQNSNOIY NoKO> Wla@= AsO tes N/a a(u= 40 SoGe GoGe vole Choe EMOR 5.9 LAO 16.9 LONGER LOSSES O ELSES Jo) tebe) = SY) PERIOD, SEC 6.9 4x9 3.9 2.9 Annual ale JAN-MAR 80-82 APR-JUN 80-82 JUL-SEP 80-82 OCT-DEC 80-82 Bs: 20 CL 2 Le Pee SS ZZ) RNY WSS AAAASSSSY BBA BLBRBBABBBaseseaseay 00: 0°0;0_0:0:6:010:0:0:0.0:0,914 XA) CODD AILDIA DMA ESS SS AAAS ASASSSSSS ETE FFL LL LL LL a A, RN NVAANANANNNANNANNNANANNSSASSSSSS OT TTT TT KAANNNANNSASNSNSASNANSASSASS OPI LP LP LTD LT A A LL LALA; BSAANNSNANSNNANSSNSNASY C2ZLZ7I ILL oe TS TT Tee BAAN SANANSAANNANASNANSNS SAAN LILIA AAT APA A APT AAA AAA AA A AFL LAA AFL AA RS WSANANAASNAASAASSANSASSASY VIII IMD LI IMT BSS SS ANASNANANSNSSASNSNSY BAZAARS AS SHaIaaa A KNANANASA AN w o uw o % “JONBeYNIIO 4O AONSNDAYS 1OL0= 1f.0= L2.0= 14.05 17.0- 13.9 16.9 LONGER 11.9 10.9 PERIOD, SEC Seasonal b. 1980 through 1982 annual and seasonal distri- Figure B11. 625 bution of peak spectral wave period for gage B33 O° f L GE c Ove L ft 6 Ged Ceo Ceol Ome fs 6 9 Gof te Gal ceeen GS: 9-6 OL Gb ed be My O°l ut S 9 L 8 ry tb Se Ge 62 S°0 Lo co = ©f AM 0 6 6.8 9 © ff 8 ob mami asuoy] Jo (S)Aeq BATANIVSSUOD eee ee G29 ode) Joy SJUSTOH OAEM JO SOUdASTSUeg 2Qbl UsNosUL Obl 6a eTIeL B34 337.5 = 7 67.5 PIER ORIENTATION BEACH o~ 112.5 135.0 JAN - DEC RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.8M DIRECTION 66 DEG 12.5 135.0 JAN - MAR RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.9M DIRECTION 62 DEG 22.5 45.0 112.5 135.0 APR - JUN RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.6 M DIRECTION 76 DEG 0.0 45.0 135.0 JUL - SEP RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.6 M DIRECTION 72 DEG 0.0 337.5 22.5 12.5 OCT - DEC RESULTANT HEIGHT 1.0M DIRECTION 60 DEG HEIGHT, M (Oa Oj 2.03.0) 4:00 5:0: tv) 10 20 30 40 50 FREQUENCY, % Figure B12. 1980 through 1982 annual and seasonal wave roses, reference true north B35 22.5 i 67.5 é cm —1) 0.0 90.0 PIER ORIENTATION BEACH ew @ 112.5 JAN RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.8 M DIRECTION 50 DEG 22.5 9 ‘f 67.5 D> e ——oa fl & 2@ 112.5 135.0 FEB RESULTANT HEIGHT 1.0M DIRECTION 64 DEG 112.5 135.0 MAR RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.9M DIRECTION 68 DEG Eble 22.5 45.0 2, 135.0 APR RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.7M DIRECTION 70 DEG 0.0 45.0 112.5 135.0 MAY RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.7 M DIRECTION 77 DEG 45.0 67.5 a 7% i aoe 90.0 ce JUN RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.6 M DIRECTION 81 DEG Figure B13. 1980 through 1982 monthly wave roses, reference true north (Continued) 0.0 45.0 ae ‘fr 67.5 0 PIER ORIE; BEACH ORIENTATION \ 135.0 JUL RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.4M DIRECTION 79 DEG 135.0 RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.6 M DIRECTION 70 DEG 22.5 45.0 67.5 @ 112.5 SEP RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.8M DIRECTION 70 DEG Ube 22.5 135.0 OcT RESULTANT HEIGHT 1.1™M DIRECTION 64 DEG 337.5 0.0 af 67.5 s _— oF 90.0 &e~ ° 112.5 135.0 NOV RESULTANT HEIGHT 1.1M DIRECTION 57 DEG "43 67.5 a = : 112.5 —w we DEC 50 RESULTANT HEIGHT 0.9M DIRECTION 60 DEG Figure B13. (Concluded) HELGHT, M PERIOD, S Sl wltatuloie Miclaguet—n sical aiuto) a| Gehl i A) BONA aie JAN 1982 FEB 1982 AUG 1982 MAR 1982 SEP 1982 RR VR ee APR 1982 OCT 1982 MAY 1982 NDV 1982 - JUN 1982 DEC 1982 Nee We Ge 3.95 7 9 it 13 15 17 19 21 23.25 27 «49 Slt 3.5 7 9 MW 13 15 WF 19 al asavas DAY OF THE MONTH a. Wave heights He JAN 1962 SIUEAISB2 Le ON eA Pee Ul a= oe wp FEB 1962 RAuG 1982 MAR 1982 SEP 1982 APR 1982 MAY 1982 NOV 1982 JUN 1982 DEC 1982 1 3 S 7 9 It 13 15 17 19 21 23 a a7 a9 321 3 5S 7 9 th 13 15 17 19 2 a 3 7 B FI DAY OF THE MONTH b. Wave periods Figure B14. Time-history for gage 620 B38 Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Jan-Mar Apr-Jun Jul-Sep Oct-Dec Annual Mean Height, m 1. = oon vo wn WH @aOaNA OO W a S =o 1 Standard Deviation Height, m .6 oO 1S) SOMO On OOO Ono Ome “IO SO) Os Oo OQ © © Copy (US) d= ()) Table B10 1982 Wave Statistics for Gage 620 Mean Period sec (Go) We) 8) 02). (0) (Ss) SS) NS) SS) SS) 2) WO) SS) Oe) (00) (0) - Ww OO DW + SS OD OD a) ee (CA) OX CS] Ww Standard Deviation Period B39 sec a = - W™ NWN PW Mm Mm Pf Ww Mm W Extreme Height, m 03) MO M MO W W WO AN WM HOH — CO” =~ oY -— wo J — Date 1 Feb Apr Sep Oct Oct Number Observations 112 110 WS 111 VU 93 92 81 112 116 al W133 Sil 321 285 306 1,249 Table B11 1982 Annual and Seasonal Joint Distribution of Wave Height Versus Peak Period for Gage 620 ANNUAL PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERTOD(SECONDS) TOTAL 1,0- 3.0- 4.0- 3.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- oy Sar) at? Slot) «= at) ow? lot ol? 100) HHA eG) fe) LaNGER 0.00 - 49 eee eM ae ena gale tied SY Sh 95 "50 - 199 ba SR 529 1.00 - 1.49 Bea a 60h aap 2a 20, Shee Ne 242 1.50 - 1.99 wets Gy) 30M 2 Ty a ttb, ae emt od 80 2.00 - 2.49 Ge EE Nm cae oe Re SET Maye al 40 2.50 - 2.99 cog)? tig peaeae elt wale jaa? amare 9 200) 3249 ia ae a er MR hae ea iS ihcae sh) 5 3.50 - 3.99 MEE Sates ae ee 3 4.00 - 4.49 or nab ilegay: ket tel 1 4.50 - 3.99 coe Wildes fer ea Gu Aaa aa he arg eee 0 SeQOPS GREATER, TMB io ok WRN cos 1 smi, Re aie oe eae 0 TOTAL 02” ap TE a Pe SEASONAL JAN-MAR PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METE ’S) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL L.Q-) 3.0 Oe 50, 60>, 7a, 8.0 9.0" 10-0- 110° 12,0 14.0" 17-0- 2.9 3.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER 0.00 - 45 GME aes phn. eos “ghee otc fy CMR Ngee arc ae 2 50 - 499 Se ee ST a OY a eS) 476 1.00 - 1.49 Sen On Sen Sec Denne Tighe OMA RE a Via Cate p 298 1.50 - 1.99 Re OME Sey rah A ac eM otc 12 2.00 - 2.49 ai ant OGM aa aD Ea) Ea ih 4g 2.50 - 2.99 ee en RO oom Ne 2 21 3.00 - 3.49 Oe ale a aga ae |, 12 3.50 - 3.99 ee ae eee ae a a 0 4.00 - 4.49 : : ethic Dk ne 0 4.50 - 4.99 et te See MS Sor eA ego 0 5.00 - GREATEI gage Re VG EN aa othe A Ae he Mc 0 TOTAL 09 8) Ge el Tes GG I SEASONAL APR-JUN PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT SND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL No ete Nee wot inate Woe Ee Wate Nise ble Waa We Woe Bos) Bak) oP So) oS) BOY SS) MS) SPS? eS) Lately 0,00 - 49 4 i ; : 3 9 12 20 16 6 3 ‘ ‘ 74 00 = 299 : 12 Ze 34 65 Bi 106 140 90 50 : 9 4 409 1.00 - 1.49 q 3 22 3! ay 23 4) 25 4q 22 0 f 200 ond = Yooh) : fo) 6 6 3 9 4 § 3 0 ; 45 2.00 - 2.49 3 5 3 ; : js 3 , 9 27,00 - 2.99 z 5 3 : 5 5 A 4 : 3 3.00 - 3.49 ; 5 0 0 - 0 6 Q alga) o Sabi) A 0 A : . 0 i) 4.00 - 4.49 5 : j A ; . 7 : 5 ¢ ‘ tt) 4.50 - 4.99 6 A : : A 4 : ) 5.00 - GREATER A F Fi j 3 7 i A f a F i ‘ 0 TOT 15 20 65 105 136 149 217 137 106 28 12 0 (Continued) B4O Table B11 (Concluded) SEASONAL JUL-SEP PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HE TGHT (METERS) PERTOD (SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0° 17,0- Py RG) EE SO) Gee) hoe) ob) GG) Toe? sles) gy) (uae 0.00 = .49 : 4 Po 1s 1 Gb as Gy i as) HM 284 nal) = ob) : YM A Sa eS fay) AW 4 . 024 1.00 - 1.49 : c ye i 11 : 4 : 181 teo0) Sele? : : : Ta : : : : : : : 18 2,00 - 2,49 : : : . : 0 0 Boal) 2 Bowed . : : : 0 3.00 - 3.49 : : : : : 0 dlaall) > das c c c d : : : : : c : A : 0 i 00 - 4.49 : : : 0 : : . ‘ ' : : : : 0 200 - 4,99 : : : : : 0 ; : : : ‘ : : d : 100. - GREATER : : : : 0 : ‘ : P : : : : 0 TOTAL Oa a NG GIG Dl 0 SEASONAL OCT-DEC PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERTOD (SECONDS) TOTAL N= se Bolle walle Bale Wot Gale Wade Ns ble Téa Noa W/o es) ao) EG) Ba) ae) a oe Got al? la? Mla? Nees? eho 0.00- .49 : : . . 13 3 P : : 3 3 £2 ae) Sonn : c 1G 92 Om 0/30) mn On 4.7 4 0 OO O'S 210 1.00 - 1.49 ¢ : a Sie? Ww AD 3 2 NS a iD) A 22 oat) © Bashy : : c 10 2 Zi 3 7 ZY ey ile : 122 2.00 - 2.49 p : 0 0 AY ay : 7 0 MG ae 3 94 Baal) = ork) : c : c : 3 3 : 3 : c 9 3.00 - 3.49 : : 3 : : c : R| Soa) = dinwly c ; i : q : c 10 4.00 - 4.49 : : 3 : 0 3 4.30 - 4.99 : : c c ¢ i) 5.00 - GREATER : : : : - : : : 0 TOTAL O > Gl Mt 8 we 7 G) Ge day oe a BY HEIGHT (METERS) =) . . DMNOMoOMoMNoune ay CWoococTcsc0C Ss 2 5 eC Fn e 8 s 8 8 we . ce ATER KE IGHT (METERS) HEIGHT (METERS) = ch) > Ath ae) 2 ohh) -00 - 1.49 onl) = Nao) 00 - 2.49 a = Gh eG - 3.49 300) > 3599 200 - 4.49 200 - 4.99 .00 - GREATER TOTAL ee SIR Table B12 1982 Monthly Joint Distribution of Wave Height Versus Peak Period for Gage 620 MONTH JAN PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD PERICD (SECONDS) le fie f= Gide Ale T= Bite Fe ee) Se) eG) Ging) eG) Te) RG) LG Cee ee PR, | bet? ) i Sh 33 GG 9 ia Sh MAT: WRAY GELB Lame wemtB Dg) OBR 8 : a ee en : ee) CS eee 6 9 & GF) 8% jee 9 0.0- 10.9 188 MONTH FEB PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD PERIOD( SECONDS) Iie aie fe Sie Ble Fe. B0> 9:06 N00e 2 8G Bo so OG) 8.9 9.9 10.9 mM 08 9 oh 8 yw oe wm iG oe ie ee MPSS ao, Aah iiem ln aS ; mM To 5 9 9 ; ee or ce We Mag o a o a 9 s . Fo 7 om 1 Rk Mm GG) zB MONTH MAR PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD PERIOD (SECONDS) Ale G0 F.0e Bde Ge Tete Fide Fee 10.0 29 2 RG SO Ae Je GO VO S08 y mm 8 & Ge wm 1a) 204 NOs Ts Mie Wie oe) SG) Ge) Te) DG) OO NSD iat 9 16.9 LONGER beeen tlt ey sAuem Suen tame lua shane eae Cm hle died Be bb me PS OG WTR I A RE SR 647 Bm OMA bolpeaan lame Brag Seog) Stage tage, Sisk, ig) 260 Bn gooey Jas etre 67h) a ; 33 et ae Pla ih a MOE ARE! ties 0 fee (oo BBY AS fer Fee teks Moe Ee 0 eee Bo Ce Aion ey re ea 0 a aed RY RO Ra Se 0 ee ao fe eS Fie a 0 an ae MICRO srt Qeaiety a the, alee 0 aU peonn ake Re bis in Un vot AE Ss eae oe 0 22 7h 190 108 216 109 140 119 58 32 0 (Continued) B43 (Sheet 2 of 4) Table B12 (Continued) MONTH JUL PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERTOD(SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0= 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0-. 11.0= 12.0- 14.0- 17.0 5 Corey meta yan ain 0 0 Elo) Gee) aes) SAG) NaS) hfe g§) LONGER 0.00 - .49 : 11 11 11 We a) GS RB) 11 535 al) = ath) j ; 11 76 eS 7543 099 2298 1! 22 é 11 370 1.00 - 1.49 ; : F ey eR) yee ; ; j i ; : 99 1.50 - 1.99 : j i : ; t P j 0 2.00 - 2.49 : 3 j Fi i : ; ; ‘ i) Boa) = Boh) : : j j ; j j P ‘ 0 3.00 - 3.49 i ‘ j : i ; ‘ : 0 3.50 - 3.99 j ; : ; j ‘ ‘ ; : 0 4.00 - 4.49 0 A 6G 5 a 7 0 ty) 4,50 - 4.99 , : 5 5 6 5 0 0 5 a 0 5,90 - GREATER 3 , : : A 6 : 6 A 0 0 4 ; 0 TOTAL 0 11 He Set) et) A GR) OR) SS) Re Q MONTH AUG PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERTOD‘< SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5,0- 4.9- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- Zoe) Boy) So) Bo Wo. Bs) DoS) MYaG) Mag? Hala) oY) LONGER 0.00 - .49 ; : Wo aay Bh WARY 25 : fy Fs} A 346 et - 99 j 12 2 7B WE NO 74 Teron mee neal, : A 617 1.09 - 1.49 : : ; 75} ve % i : ; : t ‘ 7 1.50 - 1.99 ; : : : ‘ ; ‘ ; ‘ ‘i : A 0 zZ.00 - 2,49 ' ‘ A : ; : ; : 0 : : i Zen) = 2099 D f ; : i j : : ; : 5 : ) 3.00 - 3.49 ‘: ‘ , , \ f ‘ ? ; ; ‘ ; d 3.50 - 3.99 ; ; 5 : ; é : i 3 ; : F 0 4,00 - ee ? 2 ‘ 4 k i : ? ; é , : 0 4, 50 - . . ‘ . . . 2 2 . a © 0 5.00 - GREATER ; F é j ; ‘ é 5 ‘ : : : i) TOTAL 0 W Ws FR gee BBR) ny We fy BSP 5} 0 MONTH SEP PERCENT OCCURRENCE‘X10) SF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (NETERS) PERTOD(SECONDS) TOTAL t.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- $6.0- 7.0- 9.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.9- 14.0- 17.0- Bed Bo? ~ GOP Bob) iG) oS) Ela) OG? HS eG) aS) Uae 9, 0 : 6 9 : : 9 9 5 : 27 = 99 j 9 Wey GR) UE ys Ba : ; i 581 - 1.49 : : BS GaSe Sah we eee ; 9 349 - 3,99 : ‘ i {8 27 ? , Fi A 7 i 5 4g - 2,49 5 A 0 0 A 6 4 3 : 6 i 2 2h) 5 f 5 A ; A ; F : i) - 3.49 : , A : : i ; P : : 6 - 3.99 0 A : 5 A ; F 0 i) - 4,49 ' : : 6 : 5 : : ‘i ; 0 0 - 4,99 A ; ; ; : i : ; é Fi ; i) 5.00 - GREATER ; j ; ‘ : : ' ; : jl i ; F 0 TOTAL o fa NE es) SR) ee 9 i) 0 (Continued) (Sheet 3 of 4) BYY Table B12 (Concluded) MONTH OCT PERCENT ACCURRENC 10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PER IOD{SECONDS) TOTAL Aa the Cte Bete Bote Wot toe Soe MW Moe Mee He 14.0- 17.0- eo) Bo) Ea SoG tact) ol) flat) 9 Gao) MDa hae) Nelo Minsky (Maleletes 0.00 - .49 : C : 6 . 34 : : c ; : : : 34 on) > owe c . Df a OR a A Wd w 423 1.00 - 1.49 cy eh ad Wy OM PR : 222 lopkt) > Wavy : : 7 OB 9 DRY es Soe 182 2200 5 2.49 : : : 9 9 : : a Ae) 9 87 Boal) 2 Zoek) : 0 : : 9 9 : ; 9 : 5 Z 3.00 - 3.49 C : : c : c : 0 3200) = 3.99 : : 9 c a 4,00 - 4,49 ‘ : 0 9 ; c 9 4.00 - 4,99 ' : ‘ c . 0 3.00 - GREATER : c : : : ) TOTAL i) 0 Ge a A we Na) 18 MONTH NOV PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X1G) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HE TIGHT (METERS) PER TOD ( SECONDS) TOTAL d= ah Gale See GANS Woe Gale Ge jWWst= fWeWe Heat Mis Hou Bo ats) ba) Ga) oe) WGP lo oR) SMD? ilk? Mehat? hat) LONGER 0.00 - .49 : 5 : : 6 : : : : : : a < 0 oe) = bh) c 5 ay Gl 2 Mp Se a se ay Me OH 676 1.00 - 1.49 0 A o 6h) CR) th) a c : c . A c 234 1.90 - 1.99 : 0 : COM OMeS : c : 78 2,00 - 2.49 : . : 0 13 : : c a c 13 Roll) 2 Bayh) : : c : : : 0 0 3.00 - 3.49 : : : : : : . . 0 : 6 0 Sloat) have) : : c : : 0 : : : : 0 4.00 - 4.49 : : : c 0 : 0 §.00 - 4.99 . : : : : : : : 0 3.00 - GREATER “ : 0 TOTAL ( OB gh He 2p A ES A) EH MONTH DEC PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PER TOD (SECONDS) TOTAL Hols he ao ioe ate dol tile Cate Mii MAO Wea NA a= Bo) aot at ao Bat? oS) tH a) lak? hak? Hoo) Weigh? LUIS 0.00 - .49 ; c : : : : A 9 : : : 9 9 27 onl) S obhy c : 180 35 6 ¢ 4 Uh Se «ce Ge ae ay 436 1.00 - 1.49 c : o A ED : 0 6 OY : c 215 Noval) = ate) : 0 - 18 86033 . : : : 9 9 c : Bo 00 = 2.49 : : : ao ath bs : 18 oe yl) : 140 2.50 - 2.99 : c - : c c : : , : : : 0 3.00 - 3.49 c - : : : 9 : : . : 9 Hookl) > loca) : : : : : 9 : 9 c 18 4,00 - 4,49 : 0 : : : 5 : : : 0 4.00 - 4,99 : : : : : c C c : : : : : 0 5.00 - GREATER : : : ¢ ; : : : : : : : : a TOTAL i) Cie 11 Fi O29 0h 1 7 do (Sheet 4 of 4) BY5 HEIGHT (M) PERIOD {SECONDS} LEGEND x EXTREME O MEAN [] +1 STANDARD DEVIATION x J F M A M J J A S DBD N OD J-M A-J J-S G-D 82 80-8) TIME a. Wave heights LEGEND O MEAN | +1 STANDARD DEVIATION JorpowWw f FJ J fF S © MW W Jil Ge JS OF EB ECE TIME b. Wave periods Figure B15. 1982 extreme, mean, and standard deviation of wave heights and periods for gage 620 BH6 7.0 a ANNUAL 82 oO wn n i 2 | cmdiis f rm} = ro Tos (a>) i r oO a 2 oO 10° } i uy PERCENT GREATER THAN [INDICATED a. Annual i) a JAN-MAR 82 eta tates MCE Ra | area ees APR-JUN 82 — | UL SSP S22 —- OCVsneas ee ee __-—s ANNUAL 82 T) ac J | oma J = fa =) 2 LJ ae 10 10 PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED b. Seasonal Figure B16. 1982 annual and seasonal cumulative distribution of wave height for gage 620 BY7 HEIGHT (METERS) HEIGHT (METERS) 7.0 6.0 5.0 4.0 3.0 2.0 1 1 PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED on 10° Vor 10° PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED Figure B17. 1982 monthly cumulative distribution of wave height for gage 620 (Continued) B48 HEIGHT (METERS) HEIGHT (METERS) 7.0 6.0 4.0 5.0 3.0 “1 0 10' 10° 10 I PERCENT GREATER THAN [INDICATED 1.0 0.0 10° 10 l PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED Figure B17. (Concluded) B49 16.9 LONGER 13.9 a ANNUAL B82 11.9 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- 10.9 9.0- 9.9 8.0- 8.9 PERIOD, SEC 7.0- 7.9 6.0- 6.9 5.0- 5.9 4.0- 4.9 —— eer o wu o in [=] r wn oo) N = = % “JON3YYNITO 40 KINGNOIYs JUL-SEP 82 OCT-DEC 62 N o a i 2 c a) APR-JUN 82 Annual a. 25 LIMIT TA REVS SSSANANSAI II MTT A PY WWW ESSSANVASSNAAANAAIAAIA AAA ASSANSSSA OT ad IANAAANSSASASS I AAG AD LD AFL ALP LALA LFA ALL LA PAA OF LLAMA. RAAANSNAAANASNSYAAASNSSAASASSSASS LIP TF LI AT LFF LF AL LP LAL LLL LLL LDL AAA FL A. LABBALRBRBRABaseeBSleseasasasaeaasasaa jaa "ara atta ZZZ7777Z7 LL IAD AF AF FTP COW SSAA AN AVAANASASS DODDY CZ fff | RS SANNAS a%a?. | KAJ 3) (=) w (~) *JINBYYNIDO 40 LINGNCIYs 16.9 LONGER 10.Q- 11.0- 12.0- t4.0- 17.0- 11.9 13.9 10.9 9.0- 9.9 8.0- 8.9 o- 7.9 PERIOD, SEC 7 6.0- 6.9 4.0- 5.0- S59) ARS S59 3, 0- 1.0- 2.9 Seasonal b. 1982 annual and seasonal distribution Figure B18. iod for gage 620 of peak spectral wave per B50 0Z9 aBeH 10J SYSTAH PASM JO adUa4STSIad ZQ6t €Td eTqaeL B51 HETGHT {M1 PER [OD (SECONDS! LEGEND x EXTREME O MEAN x x |x l +1 STANDARD DEVIATION x 2 1 Ct) IPS E, Mi lee 4 J J fil S O N D J-M A-J J-S O-D 80-82 TIME a. Wave heights (7 re LEGEND is O MEAN by | +1 STANDARD DEVIATION 13 12 il 10 9 8 e 8 5 4 3 2 JF ON A Se AS OS ND MEAS -SeO-DheOsb2 TIME b. Wave periods Figure B19. 1980 through 1982 extreme, mean, and standard deviation of wave heights and periods for gage 620 B52 Table B14 1980 Through 1982 Wave Statistics for Gage 620 Standard Standard Mean Deviation Mean Deviation Period Period Extreme Number Month Height, m Height, m sec sec Height, m Date Observations Jan Vol 0.6 7.8 2.9 3.3 1982 281 Feb 1.2 0.6 8.8 2.6 3.4 1982 262 Mar 1.1 0.6 9.0 3.0 3.6 1980 292 Apr 0.9 0.4 ot 2.7 2.6 1982 274 May 0.8 0.4 8.1 ZnS 20 1981 296 Jun 0.7 ORS} fol 2.2 Qo 1981 Quy Jul 0.6 0.3 Theat 2.4 1.6 1980 255 Aug 0.7 0.5 B51 2.3 3.6 1981 234 Sep 0.9 0.4 8.8 Boll 2.4 1981 271 Oct ere 0.7 8.8 2.9 4.3 1982 347 Nov tol 0.7 7.9 ol 4.1 1981 254 Dec Nee ORT 8.1 2.9 5.6 1980 329 Jan-Mar Voll 0.6 8.5 2.9 3.6 Mar 835 1980 Apr-Jun 0.8 0.4 ToS 2.4 2.6 May 814 1981 Apr 1982 Jul-Sep 0.7 0.4 8.2 2n5 3.6 Aug 760 1981 Oct-Dec 1.2 0.7 8.3 3.0 5.6 Dec 930 1980 Annual 150) 0.6 8.2 Dol 5/16 Dec 3,339 1980 B53 HEIGHT (METERS) 1.00 - 1.49 owl) = Hak) 2.00 - 2.49 Boa) 2 ork) 3.00 - 3.49 3.50 - 3.99 4.00 - 4.49 4,50 - 4.99 3.00 - GREATER TOTAL HEIGHT (NETERS} 0.00 - .49 om) & othl 1.00 - 1.49 Nagi) > ara 2.00 = 2.49 Z.00 - 2.79 3.00 - 3.49 4,00 - 4.49 4.50 - 4.99 3.00 - GREATER HEIGHT (METERS) 0.00 - 149 onl) S oth) 1.00 - 1.49 oad S Hoo) 2.00 - 2.49 ol) 2 oath 3.00 - 3.49 3.00 - 3.99 4,00 - 4,49 4,a0 - 4,99 2.00 - GREATER TOTAL tie Ae DG) a, en Zan? Fl at ana ie 905 ol) eG) ih ie A aie ee 4 98 Ae Be 26) a6) { 5 15 i 5 ANNUAL PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD PERIOD (SECONDS) Adie B= BS Fod= GOS Fie Wie Wee We Ade Wei 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER qa 7° AGE a" “on 20) Faces: | ise awn mm) oho) Ge oR Sh 8) 8] hf ae csnw Est) 20 17 as, Mig 708 eRe te GL Zoran ton igre aes: Gal ira, om Aan es OR AO a a ise et eee Ce es cea lv ecg.t is rae Fe ime ee es ee EM Ta te) AL OP lige SE oR RS a eid ee ee a oF Nice aera a otee oe Ww Wl Oh aE OS Sea SEASONAL JAN-NAR PERCENT OCCURRENCE X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD PERIOD (SECONDS) ite Bile Ale To= B02 eNO Mole 12, 0- 14.0- 17.0- SO) Go) The eo) OG 0. 6 9 le5 het aes iC Sy i 20 alee ee ty 6h ae oh oh G@) 9s BR 2 2 Ty ov A woe We 0) eh ep om. 1 3h 8h) TR Mh | ey Me PESO AMEN ITIENE CE ah BU toon ctOge mat ree ee ey ee a arte eee heme ee, eed arin ear * ee em a rn (hake erty 1D | mw i? Ge Oh) 8 SR i i Me ge 2 SEASONAL APR-JUN PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD PERIOD(SECONDS) Nt Rf Ble Tle Eble To Wyle We IOs Mae WA TW) TGC) bes) Zee) | GG) Gee SOG) Soc) TRG) HWS) LsTeep A 9 © i w 9 @ @ @ @ | em oh om & i) tm & 8 iG iy . We oh 5) we ob Se oh Th Mm f |. er ee eas. CME CAMML Tdi Tiom ere ene 2 i ee ee ec eek ae we em cro i ip oth WR The WR We oF) Sm | (Continued) Table B15 B54 1980 Through 1982 Annual and Seasonal Joint Distribution of Wave Height Versus Peak Period for Gage 620 LONGER TOTAL TOTAL TOTAL Table B15 (Concluded) SEASONAL JUL-SEP PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HE TIGHT (METERS) PERIOD( SECONDS) TOTAL fae ete “fe Sn Gee Tee flee Gol li Nilo We Nea Wa Po} Bo) Bob) Bo) Go) Fo los) oe) DoE)? TMshab Mg? LUI eieh ORO 0 Rae, 3 4 12 Ny DA oa eZ? 12 ye 1 251 cal) oth) 2 @ & @ Gf wa G @ #@ S05 1.00 - 1.49 : 1 ek) at) 18 11 8 813 7 1 182 oat > Wark) : : ¢ K) 9 4 Q 1 : x) 8 1 38 2.00 - 2.49 : : : : 1 : 1 1 6 1 4 3 11 owl) > fae) : : : d 1 0 1 : 1 1 : 4 3.00 - 3.49 1 1 : 2 3.00 - 3.99 : : 1 1 4.00 - 4.49 c : : : : 0 4,00 - 4,99 : : F : : i) 3.00 - GREATER 0 c ¢ : ¢ c . : : : : : : 0 TOTAL Mal > 2 Ge) HG) AR) We Mats} all 725) ess 2 SEASONAL OCT-DEC PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PER TOD(SECONDS) TOTAL a= ale Golte wale Galle 7oW> GoW= Wold Wate WS eal Wee Mole fo) ala? GN ak) (08) ob? ao Geo) MoS elo glo) sob) MTs 0.00 - .49 1 1 4 2 1 F) 8 16 9 S WW Z 85 ca) 2 oth) Cae at GUE nash Kehoe yay ACM yA et ta Pea Ye) Wet) Gann) ey 72 8 413 1.00 - 1.49 : 2 83 41 14 t's OG 4 1 230 owt) = dash) : : Al og 4 ® 0 2G 9 : 12 2.00 - 2.49 : ; : 19 18 3 4 4 Me 8 1 79 Baal) S Kalk) 1 8 1 4 . R) iz q a 21 3.00 - 3.49 : : x) Z : 1 Z 1 11 Sloat) S Sloth ¢ c 2 3 3 1 & 11 4.00 - 4.49 : : : : 5 : : c c 2 : 1 3 4.00 - 4,99 0 a c : : : : . : : : : 0 3.00 - GREATER : : : : : : : c : . 1 i ; z TOTAL o> we ag 3 2 has Gi) Gh) EB Se) OH ff) ie B55 HEIGHT (METERS ) Ff Be OI IPOs S75 ot 3 te oa ! te ~o% ~o: [00 - GREATER TOTAL HE TGHT (METERS) C1 Ctra pyr es s . . s . . . . . HEIGHT (METERS) «0 = 2.99 3.50 - 3.99 79 5.00 - GREATER TOTAL Table B16 1980 Through 1982 Monthly Joint Distribution of Wave Height Versus Peak Period for Gage 620 MONTH JAN PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD PERIOD (SECONDS) le @0e oie G02 be Te Oe Fie Mf iO= wie Woes ii ee) SG) Gea) ee) GG) aes) HG) 8G) AIO) SLAG) TRG) Gag) UGS gk hs aes) Ma ie a aay Sn) Bas ese mie fo Wh RS) a) a Res (ce ar Ve ie Fe (ee) A Oe ce SP ge age Wier 92 #87) en Sz a kogk me Waal we ear ee eRe eae Mea le enh | | fi ew ei er eee ger eo ME WORE ee hy Clee ee aa cS) AR) GO GRC (Cs MONTH FEB PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD PERIOD (SECONDS) Qe Se Ge Sue Bile Tule Rule Sole Moe Mie Wm Wie Oe ) AG) MG) RT TG ae) EKG) Gee) OS) SIG) TRG) Ge) Lah Saat ae oe Rea Pome iy pee PUG ce re a ih Gh) op fh) sh a ct) Oe BR 8 He WE Gime, Spy la ServSafe Maras Th 8 | POT ee be) Gee IG GE og) gee LP AE aS ® wien Shang SASS B15 gw iite A de eS eS ao Bs Ree ar eee es ge eon acm a he OAS) Ge MONTH MAR PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD PERIOD (SECONDS) ie Ts Coe Sole Adds T= Gs Gole Me Me Tle fae Pais 209) 1309) G29) i519) WGI) 9789 IGE) MISE SINNIONS UNNIIECG s RIGHOMMIGEGINIIREER Ge LC Ee Guin ear ey 2 9) 0 Sh Sl oS) A me oe ah a hm we MM Ww 1 0 Ty RB oh ae ie oe Game i mm 2 Me Sen oy a iow. inte ie a Sy ee a) a : 7 8 a age ae M3 a a ae ae te ats Tacs 3 a © of Wy ee fe ie So G a a 6 (Continued) B56 TOTAL TOTAL TOTAL (Sheet 1 of 4) MONTH APR PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD Table B16 (Continued) HEIGHT {METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL fie Se Rs Sie le Te Ge O02 MOS ite ie yee ie a) St) TG) Se) eG) EL) GI) OG) Sa) SRG) SS) LENGER 0.00 - .49 Se? 5: a: a Ae SEE ae a 85 "50 - .99 M98 Gs A FP Sh | a Oy ee a 587 1,00 - 1.49 Na: wrisieeaey SUOMI) Mell esse RET OM fy Ph og! Ok 27 1.50 - 1.99 Slept CER RIS A Te ROS e PAeee 7] 2.00 - 2.49 1 ea UW ie wT EM 37 22 2.50 - 2.99 ; yn 4 3.00 - 3.49 ? Or ST! A a 0 3.50 - 3.99 Sr Te elt 0 4.00 - 4.49 ; Sim ate or Ue ; 0 4.50 - 4.99 i Ba Wee WA ae : 0 5.00 - GREATER é ec eee te he ea eee een (a5 0 TOTAL MGR) Ge A WG SRR AR MONTH NAY PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- i SCO RG GR eo LO Oh TO) sie) TES te 9 [iNGER 0.00 - 49 ed) BELO BIO) ORT ROT MSO mel pa eS 134 Se i VE ye) 2) 9G GR IR 4 SG eG 544 1100 - 1.49 St Sy IB GP Se 240 1.50 - 1.99 Ae ee aaa ene, (ea Aan ge es 58 2,00 - 2.49 ; Su Meat edn age ; sua eee 18 2.50 - 2.9 ; a a, Sage : Poe 3 9.00 - 3.49 i a : Soe sales: 0 3.50 - 3.99 ‘ Sa : d ( 4.00 - 4.49 ; Spats : ; . B 0 a) A GREATER : nt oe : ; ; ; 0 “TOTAL Ane SG GQ Ch oT 98 Bh) a SO 9 6 MONTH JUN PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) GF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 9.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- a) aL) SE AG, 7) EG WE) IG WO ie) VAG TT GNGER 0.00 - 49 : B Ws #25 Be bso ib wa ee a 204 50 - 199 ee Ne4o) REO) Aes ae70) BGO MEZ0N ASS) AEDOM EE ule |) & 419 100 - 1.49 Rb? Reso) S520) ENG: W025 Re MBI ATG) Oa ge 145 1.50 - 1.99 ST ay AE te: Toe QUA aay iG, ee Gs wh 24 2,00 - 2.49 Uh Ae Th Ee gO Sag ee is g 2.50 - 2.99 : mS i. ae 0 7.96 - 3.49 : Vie Same 0 3.50 - 3.99 : ies a 0 4:00 - 4.49 ; Sate ha: 0 4.50 - aj : tea ae 0 5.00 - Genre 3 je eee ae Cia ae he Mie Meer 0 TOTA AEMEZ ALES ROG RIO) Rint kza7) PIAS) EOS) EAA DAU Ta 4 (Continued) (Sheet 2 of 4) B57 Table B16 (Continued) A ie er ln SI Sane Bet ek eee ae eee MONTH JUL PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PER IOD( SECONDS) TOTAL Se Ge T= Ble. Fe O02 fe Ie Mlle mf 5 Ges) eS) GGG eG) flat) ERS) WGoG) laine 0.00 - 49 me om & 12 2 2 RB mM wm . 409 150 - .99 ay a eh Pg 459 1.00 - 1.49 27459" E20 aes MBB hee) ARLE 5 118 1.50 - 1.99 ays be 3 : 12 2.00 - 2.49 : : 0 2.50 - 2.99 0 3.00 - 9.49 i 0 3.50 - 3.99 ; 0 4.00 - 4.49 ‘ 0 4.50 - 4.99 : 0 5.00 - GREATER eat nite Pam nine Sure lian Bhi 0 TOTAL mo) Tl WG By BR Sh mM mH ma @ MONTH AUG PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL Fie Erde Joe Rule Gale Me Mlle fel Moe Woe 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER 0.00 - .49 og @ OB RM BM © M mM . 282 "50 - .99 1% & ie oS & @ @ Mm G , 530 1:00 - 1.49 30 hag Aaa Dg GE TR IS is 107 1,50 - 1.99 a Be a BD AR Rie ion Ge 39 2.00 - 2.49 pe aes em ee Ge ai ARE Same 12 2.50 - 2.99 [A ame a as se Mat 16 3.00 - 3.49 Ls TAR Be ge A 3 8 3.50 - 3.99 a i ik ae : 4 4.00 - 4.49 ; ; 0 4.50 - 4.99 ; ; 0 5, 00 = : GREATER ae i eae 0 1) We ih Th 1h WW ce ww @ MONTH SEP PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL Riis fe ge Bate Tle MM, 0: 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER AAD = 0 9 RRok. BOM! Rk AEG. MOLT DRI, 1OE Ay ea aR 78 "50 - .99 Hog mt iy wm om we ms 2 1:00 - 1.49 MS ap a mG ay 307 1.50 - 1.99 ae ee a eas ee eat yc bb 2,00 - 2.49 4 4 | Ge ee 2 2.50 - 2.99 . ‘ ‘ 0 3.00 - 3.49 0 3.50 - 3.99 p 4.00 - 4.49 ° ee GREATER 0 a vrOTAL Gil Miso) WAG) 110g) les) mead IGN mIi0) modes (Continued) B58 (Sheet 3 of 4) Table B16 (Concluded) MONTH OCT PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL TO a= Aad aad fat Aa tot Wo NWat= a Oe Hea Nelo Nao fo) Sat? Ghat) Do? ok? ot Ba Go) Moe) ASG 1G) 9 16.9 LONGER 0.00 - 49 ‘ : : : ¢ 12 ees 2 Ge 9 : 105 oak!) = oth) ; 6 ee BP aa a 3 349 1.00 - 1.49 cl 7 Ay a} 9 i WW & 26 9 c 248 1.50 - 1.99 - c : 3. Ol 6 6 6 12 Wo a 14 : 140 Zalth) > Bakh) : : : : 20 Wes 6 3 2 fy 17 9 3 99 Boel) > Bayh) 3 14 3 9 : 3 3 : 35 3.00 - 3.49 : : 0 3.00 - 3.99 c : x] : 3 4.00 - 4.49 : : : a : c : : c 6 : ¢ “ 6 4,50 - 4.99 : : c C , c : c 6 : : 6 : 0 3.00 - GREATER : : : c : : : a : : : : : 0 TOTAL 0 6 Ne} its MD NERS SAGE MEY SRY? fai 6 MONTH NOV PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PER 10D (SECONDS) TOTAL Late che Golle Bo Golde ote Eee Sade Nowe Miho We NewS Was Z Boy Bo) a? Oo) oe? Glo a) Mo ANG steo) ok? Laie i aa 0.00 - .49 4 4 4 4 4 of = 7M) 4 8 zZ mi) = oth) 8 3 WF GF @ ®@ gs 4G ge sh Calc 300 LoQh) > ohh) : We ey AY 8 Hoe AZ 8 4 4 226 Noa) = Wark? : We alt 12 : ; 12 ‘ 12 107 2.00 - 2.49 4 8 8 : 0 8 4 4 : 36 2200 = 2.99 : . C 4 a g 4 : : Z g.00' = 3.49 : 4 4 : . 4 4 : 16 3.00 - 3.99 c : 12 4 8 : 24 4.00 - 4.49 : - c c c . c : : c 4 : 4 4.00 - 4.99 0 : : : : : c : : yy 3.00 - GREATER ; c : : 0 : c : : : c . a TOTA eS) NN) aR SA) ] MONTH DEC PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PER TOD (SECONDS) TOTAL Na dal Go a= Oo oO B= Gold Woot Woe Wzolke MAO Naas Pos) Bot) ot) ot) at) al? Hoe? ok) Nae) WLS) ARIE? SWAG) (UOTE 0.00 - 49 : o 9 6 : F 3 6 3 6 2 18 3 i HOS 90) Geran |S pee 2s 0 Ne, 3 SC) 0/2 2 9 388 1.00 - 1.49 ; Thee 2 82 64 21 We ail 15 24 : c 272 1.50 - 1.99 : " : 18 64 12 2 6 6 6 6 c : 130 2.00 - 2.49 0 : : : sy 3 9 : pike a) : 81 Foal) S Bothy a : : ¢ 3 : : : 6 : : : 9 3.00 - 3.49 a : : : 12 3 : 3 3 Z dn00) = 399 : . c C c 3 : 9 : : : 2 4,00 - 14 : : c : 0 ; : : - 0 4.a0 - : : : : c ! : : : : : : : 0 Sat) = GREATER . : : : : : : . : : 3 3 : é TOTAL @® fe Si BRS tS) ARR) EE) 7A) TD 12 (Sheet 4 of 4) B59 es —__ SS ANNUAL + 80-82 - wo oO me Fe) ti 2 Retr oj = ko 3c . a to = oS ro) oO 3 ner 10° 10' 1e PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED a. Annual a cousen.. JAN-MAR 80-82 Ga aN BBC hal. 0) SRNR crm eral gt Mca coe i ay APR-JUN 80-82 JUL-SEP 80-82 i OCT-DEC 80-82 Vey n Q (ea) ew (a) 2 Ee Sy ow” to = Fo = ot} fen) 3 =a Lo" P 10° ] 10 PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED b. Seasonal Figure B20. 1980 through 1982 annual and seasonal cumulative distribution of wave height for gage 620 B60 16.9 LONGER 3 ANNUAL 80-82 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14,.0- 17.0- 1.9 13.9 10.9 7.0= B8.0= 9.0= Yoo). “Ebe) ol) 6.0- 6.9 7) (=) wn o % “FONBYYNIDO 40 AINBNOIYS 25 20 PERIOD, SEC Annual a. 25 N . (=) © = t z c iar) APR-JUN 80-82 (2222 oe ee) IDSA SNAAASNANASAS TA ATTA AF ATA A WSS SSSSSSSSSSSSAASSASASSAAS JUL-SEP 80-82 -970:070;0,010101010:016:0:0;0:0:01070,0:0,070,0 OIE AD MAT APD AFD A RS SSAANASASASSSAASSAS RX 1-0.0:9:9 9.0.9.9. Y.8 OOH 0Oe CLO LL Lo hh) ERNMENT SAAS SSSA KX OLLI LG LF FAL ALLL ALLL ML LL LL A ASNANAANSANSASSSASSASS he, OPI LP LG AD A A LL AF AP AF A KRAANNSANSNSASNSSASSS 00.9.9,9.0.9,9,9.929,9,0.0,929.9. 2.0.9.0 ,9, 992 90,9 89.999, CLL L LLL eh hh hhh khan hahah IXANANAANNANASNANANSSS 9.809.820 n9,9,8,9,0. 0,0, P a9 POPP PnP PaPaPar ater aPaPaPa Paar Paar a raat PON NESSUS SYS ANAAANASAASSSSS aa a rear CP IIL LLL LL hhh COS ASAAAAAAAANANAAAANANSANSSSASS PRAIA V7 Zs ZZ} KNAANNSSASN oma SAI 20 % “JONSYYNIDO 4O AINGNOGYS w o wo o 16.9 LONGER Sle Osa l40=917.0= 13.9 11.9 PERIOD, SEC Seasonal b. distri- 620 1980 through 1982 annual and seasonal bution of peak spectral wave period for gage Figure B21. B61 2 € es 5G (aeetae fr 6 ey © — O¢ 2 GES Ole ei LE rd € gy Lb we SS Of € Gea! Lt Gl OL @2 we eS 62 Se en tnt ot A ft & 2 hh oO es Get, ee ee NN MO OS = B62 029 ose) JogF S}USTOH OAEM JO SoUaEISTSJeq 2gbl YsNoaU] Og6l Lid eTaeL Ne ta) HE [GH PERIOD, S i JAN 1982 JUL 1982 SAR AE IN eR PR FEB 1982 NOV 1982 NN OR DEC 1962 Omer uNwWeaNO-NUSNO-NUDZNO-NUSHNO-NUeNO- Nua Ce & YO UW Ww MW Dd ts dD wb y SYP OM BE BW Oo Ww te &) a DAY OF THE MONTH a. Wave heights 6 JAN 1982 JUL 1982 (Ss 1047 aS FEB 1982 AUG 1982 1S 19 5) 0 a MAR 1982 = APR 1962 OCT 1962 is 10 Ye 5 AL 0 Q HAY 1982 NOV 1982 1S 10 5 2 JUN 1982 DEC 1982 1s 10 5 a 0 I 3 Ss 7 3S tl 13 15 17 18 al 23 25 a7 29 311 3 s 7 9g nus vwreoiwteaipsnasavwvan»n DAY OF THE MONTH b. Wave periods Figure B22. Time-history for gage 615 B63 Table B18 1982 Wave Statistics for Gage 615 Standard Standard Mean Deviation Mean Deviation Period Period Extreme Number Month Height, m Height, m _ sec sec Height, m Date Observations Jan O57 0.4 1033 Boll 1.6 1 95 Feb 0.9 0.4 7.7 Doll 1.9 19 91 Mar 0.7 Ons 6.9 203) 165 1 105 Apr 0.7 0.3 6.9 2.4 1.4 1 T2 May 0.5 0.2 8.6 2.9 1.6 12 111 Jun 0.6 0.2 Se7/ B05) lees 10 114 Jul 0.4 0.2 7.0 2.3 102 1 114 Aug 0.5 0.3 fo 2.5 1.7 29 117 Sep 0.7 0.3 7.0 2.1 a) 30 109 Oct 1.0 0.5 9.4 3.6 2.2 11 110 Nov 0.9 0.3 LoS 2.8 Jo 23 111 Dec 0.7 0.3 8.8 305 lof 13 104 Jan-Mar 0.3 0.4 ess Qo 1.9 Feb 291 Apr-Jun 0.6 0.3 8.2 302 166 May 297 Jul-Sep 0.5 0.3 0 268) lof Aug 340 Oct-Dec 0.7 0.4 3.6 3.4 2.2 Oct 325 Annual 0.7 0.4 Tce 330) Ac2 Oct 1253) B64 PERIOD (SECONDS) vwadeewi @ VN @ 6 LEGEND < EXTREME O MEAN ] +1 STANDARD DEVIATION HE [GHT (M) ih Ae sn eS Om NiO MA —SeO-Dme2G0-81 TIME a. Wave heights LEGEND O MEAN l +1 STANDARD DEVIATION J F M A MM JS J A S DO N OD J-M A-J J-S O-D 8280-81 TIME b. Wave periods Figure B23. 1982 extreme, mean, and standard deviation of wave heights and periods for gage 615 B65 HEIGHT (METERS) 01S OItIhS Ceara me Sisusn ASS oaosSso oa 1 ae) “a oO 2 - GREATER TOTAL HE TIGHT (METERS) HEIGHT (METERS) 50 - 1.99 500 - 2.49 nS & Lo0I PI pa aeiele lla melire OL a-0 Nonowns 4SSesass ao ao ' co Oo oO R= SL05 De) BG 2 10 5 0 a UE) ‘le Zhe a6) 26) A 3 Sale 3 $0 te 205 DG) 28 17 13 0 ANNUAL PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD Table B19 (Continued) B66 1982 Annual and Seasonal Joint Distribution of Wave Height Versus Peak Period for Gage 615 PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL Nie Sie Be Tle Ge Ste Wie Wyte ite 08.06 a NO EG a6) Toe) Gee) OA) MOG) iG) flag 06.5 LENGE Oo @ mM Mm RS OW wh gw 3G mw 4 327 WOR mh 0) RO 448 ly 98k" ROS gat eet MON aug’ ies CoC mmtCen ee 175 OP 745; Mat PN ty gy NOUN fa est) aren 51 OO Aue RE TC, Gas a os el 5 Py ae ies ee By oe 0 7, at ee 0 an mar: j 0 ees on eas ; 0 ' O 3 ‘ F ‘ co ey Ee ER Gh By OM GA Bn SEASONAL JAN-MAR PERCENT CCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD PERIOD ‘SECONDS) TOTAL 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- 4.9. 5.9 4.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER Oo mm 0 7 0 Bom 2 ay mM 4 234 cea YS a) TE SR BG 442 1 gg Gn Noga nti satan ec wae eae 251 mS 24 Oi AAI YIg OAAIQMATH OY. Tid) Mud) | 4 b7 Boe eB A ee Le. eee 0 Le Tees ates, Abe 0 a ee Sh ae 0 a ay ee 0 i. ee ie E oe ae 0 Te ee ae ee cs Mame Haven ee Hay 0 Pye toe) oye) eS Ty RS ey) SEASONAL APR-JUN PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL ite Gio= Bele Joie Sule Pe We MWe MMe l= 1P0= NO RG OG) Tae) GG) Ge Md) MAG Teg) Gog) UaSRER mM Wy wh 0 wm Mw By @ 0 wh Mm 389 jh 74 9G Gar) Ged Terai, Aven gts TO 490 SNe TR SO WH IB MD 113 ok : PE elie 6 a hay: 0 ag Bt: ‘ 0 el oe 4 0 EN i ; 0 Beaad's : 0 28 30 : ° Gl mi Me Oh 9 ie 6p Gh a af Table B19 (Concluded) SEASONAL JUL-SEP PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PER TOD (SECONDS ) TOTAL Noe de> Gol Sale Gate Yole Bhd Foe nd We = N= saab Hot} Sos) Sint) lo) faa oS) tae? Po AG) Halas) SWAGG) TLfabiTetEh) 0.00 - .49 Bo UGl Wk BSE Re 12 : dal can) 2 oNhl : © a TBS GR Bie A Il 12 9 : : 354 NeW > aah) : c a ARS hae OEE 3 3 : : : c : 106 oat) > aye) a : c 3 c 7 : : : c . c c 12 2.00 - 2.49 c : : : c : : 0 : : : : : 0 Hert) 2 Baek) c c : c 0 3.00 - 3.49 : o : : 0 0 3.00 = 3.99 0 : : 0 4.00 - 4,49 : 5 : ; c c 0 4.90 - 4.99 ; : : 0 3.00 - GREATER : : : : ¢ q : c 6 c ; . c 0 TOTAL 3. 4 - 8 We AND Me oy) Ss Ge) oR) aR} 0 SEASONAL OCT-DEC PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HE IGHT (METERS) PERIOD( SECONDS) TOTAL w= SAW Ga w= Ooe Woe Bo@= Vo WW] Mae: Wo - 14.0- 17.0- Hod doe Ga Bol bat? Fo en Do Oa? MD sla) SeioG) Lal erste 0.00 - 49 : : : te) 6 F) 9 28 9 131 onl) S ohh) : We SL ER Qe Ww mg OG a Ie iw 305 Na > Heh) : : o th Hh 3 9 3 AR c 231 oak!) = Nave) 0 c : 3 2 d 0 6 ® ie shh ae Mle 116 2.00 - 2.49 : : a 0 : 3 : : c : 6 6 : 13 ool) 2 Lash) ¢ : : : : : . 0 3,00 - 3.49 : : : - : i) 3.50 - 3.99 : : : : : : 9 4,00 - 4,49 : - : : 5 c 0 4.00 - 4,99 6 : c 0 5.00 - GREATER - . 0 TOTAL 2a eS 2p Ge 4B ee od) O4 et Oe OG GOS B67 Table B20 1982 Monthly Joint Distribution of Wave Height Versus Peak Period for Gage 615 MONTH JAN PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL Nes dite Tae Bolle Ga oe tlle Se Ys bee aa Mle ae Het) Soe) bat) oe) | ae? oo) Da) ROLY) Sas) lat? at) ‘LONGER 0.00 - .49 1 Ui 1 A elil c 1S CoS o «6 6 330 on) > bX) : 0 fe has} 7S 2 ee 11 {1 11 : 360 1.00 - 1.49 - 0 ao oe) OS} SH 18) : 11 5 : 269 owl) Noth? 1 1 tee! : 34 2.00 - 2.49 : 0 0 : 0 2.00 - 2.99 : 0 3.00 - 3.49 0 i) laa) > Sash) 4 0 4.00 - 4. a : i) 4.00 - 4.9 5 : . 0 9.00 - caer : : : : : : : : : : a : 0 TOTA 11. 53) 285) 212) 16 2k O28 0 MONTH FEB PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HE IGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- ZO SO S059 G9 729 Bo OOO RO eg ealdog esos HONGER 0.00 - .49 c 0 ao MY : 2 : 9 a oh 5 : 1p az onl) Soh 0 4 a MO WW mt ss wh a ob : : ' 4b2 Ha) S Wout) c 0 o | |US OE) e S 0 (Ce : : : 264 50 - 1.99 ge) ae ody 0 Mae 8 SRI) GSS) Mala ATID io Oba otto saan geek 1 te 143 SOE POM le yo a katy alg A, iN hihgs Nes OE Og al el ec 3 - 4.99 00 - GREATER TOTAL 1 LICR es 8 5s © ® « @ mn o 1 eo Oo oO MONTH MAR PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PER TOD (SECONDS) TOTAL 10S 3.05 4.05 0.05 6.05 70S BS TOS ONO TNO S NOS anon li 0s Hot Sow Yow Both bia? Hob? oe) at) at? Hla? loo) Hot? Lehlsett 0.00 - .49 ‘ F 19 38 19 5 19 38 38 48 29 5 : 248 oa) = th) 5 5 76 152 114 67 A 38 38 19 10 : F 905 1.00 - 1.49 ‘ , : 29 «124 38 19 5 5 19 : i 0 229 1.50 - 1.99 ; : : 4 ; 10 10 5 ' : : C 0 20 2.00 - 2.49 5 : : 5 3 3 0 q : 0 : : a 0 Zon) = 28K) 0 3.00 - 3.49 0 9.00) = 3.99 0 4,00 - 4,49 0 4.50 - 4,99 0 : 5 r ; ‘ 5 ; 5 0 5 : 4 0 5.00 - GREATER : ‘ F ‘: : F F ji , : : ; : 0 TOTAL 0 0 Gy AG) By} SN} 48 76 76 77 39 0 i) (Continued) (Sheet 1 of 4) B68 HEIGHT (METERS) d.00- .49 oo at roe a7 0 ~o ~o~o Fl > Se GKIC PIP ee . . s s . s o . s Counc mnownonn B22 a22a5 — 1p > Toe HE IGHT (METERS) 100 = 1.99 yt coco pa . = © « © @ e@ oes DMNDSenouwns on Ama DOI SOUS oa 4 tots > Cro = 8 oO HE IGHT (METERS) ee STE NS = SeOLoroOLUD 1 Oo > = i] [ae] > a=] 0 oa) = Qe A Lie Si 2.9 3.9 42 14 y oF 1028 320- 2.9 3.9 18 1 Ones Baw dot) Table B20 (Continued) MONTH APR PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD PERIOD(SECONDS) TOTAL Ate Sie Bills js Subs SLs M002 Mile fie 10-05 ee ie) RE) dG) De) EG) Wash SG) SWAG) RES) SYR) NT 190 Pisce ue MUSA, beta) Weaza Me zpemiea) Wey Paige ta 294 G2) v1T1S Blt 428 OR42) OL AZ DU ZG PW ye AL 4s 502 = a RW EGG (Ate yee Nezou MRE i ena ccm tte 209 ig a . aL ad ye 0 age Fela eee 0 Sh ee aN ec en 0 en ae eee 0 ane Ne eal ee pase 0 Bab gts Bg ee ae 0 ne es j Pe i tas 0 a ty ak ie ne MONTH MAY PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERTOD PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL Ne Se BOS Te Se She Oe MOS TI ie See 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER HY DQ. 9 BiG Gm mM 1 . 459 a LG Gp A) al OR a AE Dg 484 oP Moh Ee eney Cee SOL Eiey Behe lee” Oe 36 ie Spee as 3 ee 18 ; rN Re: ® ae 0 Le 0 a 2 § : ages : 0 : POSS Reem ae 0 3 Bad Tact Pea 0 : Ag tie, Wiech oe Ye 0 10h Ml GO 6) SE OR ag MONTH JUN PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL {.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- 4.9°°5.9 6.9 7.9 (8.9 “9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 14.9 LONGER OR A SG) aa eB OA 377 Ce) eT) GR OBR SRE OO 18 492 ch isha) § Op Ay Mi, Rach as Sop Fae i 134 Pe ne en ee 0 0 0 0 0 Baty i) i) Oe Sane Mean ean ae Me Re RR eG n oh bE) SR ee SR) OR Seey eT A (Continued) B69 (Sheet 2 of 4) Table B20 (Continued) S— eee MONTH JUL PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERTOD(SECONDS) TOTAL a> Gale vehi 3.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0 os) Gas) Sov Got)! Ua) flak? no) oo) aha) IS) ilo 9 ‘TANGER 0.00 - .49 ya SAR}. EY aA) 9 0 c 747 om) 2 oth) : 0 MW a - 1a 6 0 : : cl 228 1,00 - 1.49 0 c : 18 9 : ; : : : a : c 27 1.50 - 1.99 . : 0 : a . 0 a : : c . : 0 2.00 - 2.49 A : A : : 3 : : : : : c 0 0 2.00 - 2.99 c : : Q . : . c : : c : 0 3.00 - 3.49 0 3.00 - 3.99 y) 4.00 - neue : 0 4,50 - : : : : : 0 : : 0 c c : a 0 5.00 - BREATER : . : : 9 : : : 6 c ; : 6 ) TOTAL 7 StS MSA) A) 9 0 0 MONTH AUG PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD{SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 4.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- 2) a) oa Bae) oo oe? ot) MS) lo? ela) Oot LaNGER 0.00 - .49 o> 4 ie ie tm le al EB 9 26 6 34 a 633 oat!) oth c Ne fy BH 9 : 9 9 0 c : 308 1.00 - 1.49 : ql 0 9 94 0 6 5 : 0 : c c 43 1.90 - 1.99 : 0 - c : 17 : ; : : 0 c : 17 2.00 - 2.49 0 0 a c : : : 0 : 0 : : : 0 Baal) 2 Bash) ) 3.00 - 3.49 0 aoa) 2 Baek) i) 4.00 - 4,49 0 0 4.90 - 4.99 c : c : 0 : : 7 : 0 : : : 0 5.00 - GREATER . : - F : c : : 0 : : : : 0 TOTAL 0 &) 8 M7 2a WB @) ti dW ch Go sk 0 MONTH SEP PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HE iGHT (METERS) PERIOD{SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 3.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- Bot) dla) fob) Bol) a? ol) lot? oe) MG? HG) RG) od) LAE 0.00 - .49 . 0 : 18 46 AB 9 ae : c c 192 oe) 2 oth) : 0 a of IB 2 9 WO sh ay ay : : 332 1,00 - 1.49 : Ono 2s 9 9 0 c : : 0 297 ea) © Hog 9 9 18 2.00 - 2.49 0 Lam) 2 28h) 3.00 - 3.49 0 3200 > 3.90 0 4 ey = vee i) 4.50 - 4.99 ; : c a o 0 Q. a0 = cfEATER . q : . : : : : : : 0 : 0) TOTA ) ae Al AN ae RE) GE Ia 0 0 (Continued) (Sheet 3 of 4) B70 Table B20 (Concluded) el MONTH OCT PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD(SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0- 3,0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- §.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- ey BV ENG) Ga DS oS Da MOSS? tNshaS) ste? Sn) Ul Teh 0.00 - .49 , 4 ; 18 36 5 9 9 : 18 F 50 se) Shh 9 45 27 2 9 27 9 73 27~=—« 100 36 9 398 1.00 - 1.49 A 45 82 59 0 9 4 18 18 27 , 204 1.50 - 1.99 : 9 36 18 9 9 18 27 45 36 207 2,00 - 2.49 A ; : 9 : : 18 18 45 Boal) 2 Bath) ; : 4 , 0 3.00 - 3.49 6 0 Sout) > Boh A 5 0 4.00 - 4,49 G 0 4,50 - 4.99 5 é : f 0 5.00 - GREATER F 5 : : F 5 i Z é P 0 TOTAL 0 9 45 GS ieelics/ Zi 36 9} SS Glies 45 MONTH NOV PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD(SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- MG) GG) ACY GG) ea aoe) le) OG) deo) lee) fale) Was) Uist 0.00 - .49 5 : F 9 4 9 5 : 18 9 45 nail) Sab) 9 36 «144 63 135 90 45 16 27 F : 9 576 1.00 - 1.49 5 6 36 81 WE 9 9 9 9 ra] 2 A 279 Hoa) = oth) a 4 5 P 5 0 9 2] 45 18 6 99 2.00 - 2.49 4 ‘ ; ; 5 A 5 ‘ 0 Reon) S Zeek) 5 7 A : : 0 9.00 - 3.49 5 é ; : F 0 3.00 - 3.99 5 * 6 A : A 0 4.00 - 4,49 é ; i Fi 5 5 0 4,50 - 4.99 ‘ 3 i i B 2 ) 5.00 - GREATER ‘ r 5 : A A ‘ A F 0 TOTAL 0 9 36 #180 153 207 108 54 36 81 Bi 5 9 MONTH DEC PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS ) PERIOD(SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- {11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- Z.9 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 9.9 -9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER 0.00 - 49 ; : 2 19 2 10 38 19 10 ‘ 87 29 270 aa) 2 Sh) {9 1d 87 143 38 29 48 19 19 87 ; 19 938 1.00 - 1.49 5 5 19 48 38 , 10 : 4 2 10 Q 154 oat) = a Gh) 5 10 5 2 i 39 2.00 - 2.49 0 2.00 - 2.99 A é A 5 0 3,00 - 9.49 : F oO ; 0 3.50 - 3.99 : 5 a‘ : A ny 4,00 - 4.49 5 - F : i d 4,50 - 4.99 A j é A 5 : 0 5.00 - GREATER : : ‘ F F ‘i Z 0 TOTAL 0 19 LOS OMe 3 Ones 39 «106 38 29 «145 97 48 (Sheet 4 of 4) B71 7.0 ° ANNUAL 82 ° n i 2 eye OJ = Ko aye ° fa) ~m 3 1 oO a oO S lon 10° 10° 10° PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED a. Annual ° s dormes JANAHAR 2 2c ae yen een nro Whe uicagnhy Cosi em lice iy dllp we Seies APR-JUN 82 _—_, JUL-SEP 2 —_, ervec e2 © ANNUAL 82 HETGHT (METERS) 10 10 PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED b. Seasonal Figure B24. 1982 annual and seasonal cumulative distribution of wave height for gage 615 B72 HEIGHT (METERS) HEIGHT (METERS) 7.0 6.0 5.0 3.0 4.0 2.0 1.0 0.0 0 10° 10° Ole 1 PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED 7.0 6.0 5.0 4.0 3.0 2.0 0 10 10° PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED Q Figure B25. 1982 monthly cumulative distribution of wave height for gage 615 (Continued) B73 HEIGHT (METERS) HEIGHT (METERS) 10m 10° 10° 10° PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED Om 10° 10° 10° PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED Figure B25. (Concluded) B74 as 16.9 LONGER By ANNURL 82 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- 10.9 11.9 13.9 9.0- 9.9 8.0- 8.9 7.0- 7.9 PERIOD, SEC 6.0- 6.9 5.0- 5.9 4.0- 4.9 3.9 3.0- 1.0- 2.9 wn o w o % “QONBYYNIO 40 AINANOIYA 20 Annual a. gssas ow wo @eZza0o coadww FOG ZeJe Seas c Oo EXXX EXER RRS SDD IIISD SILA BANA AAAS ANA AANNAANAN 0:0 010:010,0,0,0,0.9,9.0,0,0.0;0 IIIT TT TTT TTT TTS BA ASANSNSASANSNSASS C2 I ALLL LL LLL eee ess eee [WWW WSAAAANAVNIVAIANIALANANISANSN ANS PFD AG LD LEM LL LDA LAT AL LP AA LLL LA LP LALLA LA A, BICARAVRSVSABALELASAAAAASAARALARTASBRARRABRAAS ara ee a a a Or ay er at (LIZZ III III Lee eee ee | CUBLBAURBBEAAAAABULSEAAARAEREARSTACASAARAEAEEEaE PROTA LILI TLD TF LF A A LF BNANANNAASNSNANSNSS Boog C77 fe) QA a 7 R 2 2 ” © % “JONBYYNIIO 430 AININOBYS m4 O=el7Z.0= = Lir5i9} 9 -0 10.9 16.9 LONGER 13.9 - 11.0 ll. 10 PERIOD, SEC Seasonal b. 1982 annual and seasonal distribution of peak spectral wave period for gage 615 Figure B26. B75 l t 6S € S L @ © ~? Ge Gi eet e& ome tkah & A Mm Oo 6 8 fF Jadsuoy] JO (S§)Aeq SATINDIBSUOD NUN MOM M/HM =| ee SS aes G19 ese) JOT SJUSTOH SAM JO BOUEASTSJeq 7Bbl Lcd 9TOPL B76 Table B22 1980 Through 1982 Wave Statistics for Gage 615 Standard Standard Mean Deviation Mean Deviation Period Period Extreme Number Month Height, m Height, m sec sec Height, m Date Observations Jan 0.7 0.4 6.8 2.9 2.0 1980 221 Feb 0.8 0.4 8.5 3.0 1.9 1982 233 Mar 0.8 0.4 8.8 3.8 2o8} 1980 294 Apr 0.6 0.3 8.1 3.2 eet 1981 240 1982 May 6 2 1 1981 318 Jun 5 7 2.9 68 1981 281 1982 Jul 0.5 0.2 7.3 2.6 ee 1982 292 Aug 0.6 0.3 olf 2.9 Vet 1982 275 Sep 0.7 ORS 8.5 3.2 1.6 1982 QU7 Oct 0.8 0.4 8.9 3.3 2.2 1982 331 Nov 0.8 0.4 8.4 3.4 2.0 1981 319 Dec OFni 0.3 Tos 3.3 Tot 1982 293 Jan-Mar 0.8 0.4 8.1 3.4 2.3 Mar 748 1980 Apr-Jun 0.6 0.2 8.0 3.0 lewh May 839 1981 Jul-Sep 0.6 O58 7.8 2.9 Not Aug 814 1982 Oct-Dec 0.8 0.4 8.4 3.4 2.2 Oct g4y 1982 Annual 0.7 0.3 Seal 3.2 23 Mar 3,344 1980 B77 HE [GHT (M) PERIOD (SECONDS) vweuwaeet fF A YN @ WD LEGEND x EXTREME O MEAN l +1 STANDARD DEVIATION x x x x x SsO- 0180582 TIME a. Wave heights LEGEND O MEAN l +1 STANDARD DEVIATION J F MH A HH JS JS A S QO N OD J-M A-J J-S 0-D 80-82 TIME b. Wave periods Figure B27. 1980 through 1982 extreme, mean, and standard deviation of wave heights and periods for gage 615 B78 Table B23 1980 Through 1982 Annual and Seasonal Joint Distribution of Wave Height Versus Peak Period for Gage 615 HEIGHT (METERS) 3.50 - 3.99 4,00 - 4,49 4.00 - 4.99 5.00 - GREATER TOTAL HEIGHT (METERS) 4.00 - 4,99 1.0- Zao 5.00 - GREATER ; TOTAL 3 HEIGHT (METERS) 1.0- O00 4) i ol) = othe 1 1.00 - 1.49 : oO outage : 2.00 - 2.49 : Zam) 2 ash) : 3.00 - 3.49 : Shall) S ait . 4.00 - 4.49 : Ha00) = 4.99 : 9.00 - GREATER c TOTAL 2 3.0- Soy) 4 u 13 3.0- 3.9 ANNUAL PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD PERIOD( SECONDS) Mis Sie Aad Tete Ghite Sub Ve TR OS ee ee 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER WS Mh OR SB SH) a Rg pete tye YN ays RY) Ty yy etry GR Sie oii i Gn eh dor eh eG cu EL Canes weeriel 4 Bo (Tea OS Geet Ce NT Lae CHC fe, Me NN a eR en OER Je SN hte a Ok OG) Wk M08 Gh GR oO) Gt) fe Be ie SEASONAL JAN-MAR PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD PERIOD( SECONDS) (oo S02. G05. Te= Gee Fae Wye Wate MAO NEW> She AEG MSEGINNEES) Ve TEg MEBES MIQPOMNT ONG Ming MEIaEG MIAN "LONGER mm 9 8 i 8 19 “ 1% W 2 i ie 48) 9D By BF BG 7 a GR RT I 8G SPs She rene Vag Ac Bye eer” eG PU il de talk coil gk a A ER) 5 IR MG) 1S) 2) G2 92 58 9) -g me 7 SEASONAL APR-JUN PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD PERIOD (SECONDS) (ot Sie Adds 70> ByG= 90s Mle Meee Wie Wate noo 5) GG ps0 Ge ss) ioeg) tae ae 9 16.9 LONGER ie 8 © © BS H mW MM am wR a GU) Op A SG) |S fo aga Le ae Oa Sy “ton ofoh a wie Ths Os ia names Gan me Se 2 Se | mH TCE FR GSR ON WR OB GR, (Continued) B79 TOTAL TOTAL TOTAL Table B23 (Concluded) SEASONAL JUL-SEP PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD(SECONDS) TOTAL te ai Ant aol)> o> Vole B= oe Nita) NAME Weal We 7) Boy Sot) Jol? So! tae? Ao) Got) a?) lI) Wet? UTS 0.00 - .49 2y pO wae ae fh a Di) mB Re 7 464 of) Sd c i OP SD a A PBS 1 403 1.00 - 1.49 . c No BaP MY Ki) é 4 Yi) 3 ie 122 oat > ogh) : a : 1 2 4 o c : i : i , 9 2.00 - 2.49 : : : : : c : : c : : : 6 0 Boalt) & Koh) a : : : c c : : : 0 c a c 0 3,00 - 3.49 : : 0 3.00 - 3.99 : : : : : : : : . : i) 4.00 - 4,49 a : a c . . p 0 4.90 - 4.99 5 : : : : c : : : 0 2.00) = BREATER : c : : 0 : c : ; . : . . ) TOTAL A PF Re eth Sas} a DN) SEASONAL OCT-DEC PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) QF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD(SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- os) Bo as) in) Bao? To ho aE? Nag) Wee? lo) Wet) LR S | 0.00 - .49 a F 0 077 a 07 3 23 0 0 7 215 pal) > Osh i 13 1 WwW 10 | 4p RB em o 471 1.00 - 1.49 . . | @ wm chen ee ® ie & ra 3 244 loa’) 2 oth) : c 1 7 4 : 3 q 1 18 = 10 4 61 Omer ae, ' : c ! : 1 2 2 : 6 Zone = &abh) : c : 5 : : : : : : : 0 : 0 3.00 - 3.49 : : . 2 : : ‘ c : 0 lak) = Cash) : : 5 : : : : : : : c : 0 i) 4.00 - 4.49 : : : : c c : : : a 6 : c 0 4,50 - 4,99 : : : : . 0 : : c : : : : 0 3.00 - GREATER : o : : 0 : : : : ¢ c : a 0 TOTAL HN fh RS a RI ae) GY) B80 HEIGHT (METERS) 100 - GREATER TOTAL HEIGHT (METERS) 0,00 - HEIGHT (METERS) ila 50 - 1.99 Table B24 1980 Through 1982 Monthly Joint Distribution of Wave { dav eae) 14 x) 105 2.9 alte Bow) lal) 205 Height Versus Peak Period for Gage 625 MONT PERCENT OCCURRENCE {7 0) tf HEIGHT AND PERIOD B81 PERIOD( SECONDS) TOTAL Qe O02 SS Gs Te Gide F402 W002 Mie ite Mite ie ae) Th) GG Re a Le) OAc) fay) iileG) Glee WAG) IUMeSy Wo (oe IB eR BB MS 5 1G 331 me) A) GSR GD DW GO WB 418 OOP vcay NN saeme ep mol MeCIS On atine Mn gue Ge iw sep is 218 REP abc ag Th MCV ast es i 34 ee Ra ras hae ee o. 4 5 i iy wage woe , 0 AP Mh 3 ; 0 lee. ae ; A 0 5 Wate hg ah j é 0 f a ae A é 0 : Fi od eee ately ati aR ton a 0 y wt i Ws SS wy @ oR Wh wa HONTH FER PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL f= S.02 G02 Tite BOs Oe M005 Wie Tie ie tie 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER gan -aety eta eg ah © 2k Bg gos 153 1m om Ny A 8 5B a Sp mm 5B Gf 580 caer p20 Sm hz) mG 7s RG 194 Fie Ne VR eri i 9 AB ie at SSN Tes Wie hes ; en aes 0 eran. tee i 9 By he i 0 eal. elie j 0 mie aaa) x ae, 0 % 9 i) oe ith @ © 1 Gh Ww am 4 MONTH MAR PERCENT OCCURRENCE(%10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL 4,0-| 5.0- 6.0=" 7.0-) 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- /11.0- 12, 0 14.0- 17.0- dof) EO 0) Ga) THe) Ge SG) ae 14.9 LONGER ty oR al ote ary Shy ah 210 EN ES SO Th gn Ga 511 > OEM ah oO Se 227 Me Ronee Rider Mew Ge Oca! ATE ol Rog Baal 2 fa’ ce Poet ig Vee A sig any, 4 6 ee : ; 0 one 5 0 en 2: : 0 cue : 0 ae 0 ee ep eh Se a a eS) a a (Continued ) (Sheet 1 of 4) Table B24 (Continued) MONTH APR PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PER TOD( SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6,0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- 2.9 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER 0.00 - .49 eye Cane eye cel ilabe RE POR SG) aye Gh 955 150 - 99 CN rna Suman Cine vole Pome a See oil. See Sh 8G 521 1.00 - 1.49 Belly obl |. Volegia Paliag Ramti7 tak 12 Bim pay hip bee voieuaoiy ya een |e 120 1.50 - 1.99 5 es age labe oe ean he ee 0 2.00 - 2.49 0 2.50 - 2.99 0 3.00 - 3.49 0 3.50 - 3.99 0 4.00 - 4.49 0 4.50 - 4.99 0 5.00 - GREATER 1 Ngee sates Mle Aeewe ys SP ligt igre) Mn Ole ir es ee ang a a 0 TOTAL B 20 50 166 158 88 100 74 8 1 66 79 12 MONTH MAY PERCENT OCCURRENCE(%10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0) 2.0- 40>) 5.0" 6.0" 70) B.0- 9.0 10.0-) 11,0. 12,0 14,0. 17,0- 29°39 8.95.9 6.9 7.98.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER 0.00 - 49 iio bene Oe AO A RG 370 50-99 ie) Gee Ete Tow Sp Sp Gay Be We AG! 9 530 1.00 - 1.49 gee Sgt ge kt9) iuccds eats) A) Ss Stea aks ie nC) 89 1.50 - 1.99 re) ey aD OE dno) owe 12 2.00 - 2.49 bik) Ry 0 2.50 - 2.99 0 3.00 - 3.49 0 3.50 - 3.99 0 4.00 - 4.49 0 4.50 - 4,9 ce ae 0 5700 ~ GREATER AE RO ANAL HIRI a BU oc meg ee a : 0 TOTAL 0 10 Me Me 6 1D we te sg) MONTH JUN PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HE IGHT (METERS) PERTOD(SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- B8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17. 2.93.9 "8.95.9 6.9 9.98.9 "9.9" 10.9 “119 13.9 16-9 LONGER 0.00 - 49 LAD: WEB Ce WB GR Tee AG el 413 50 - 99 Wo OB Sy SG Sy a a) 522 1.00 - 1.49 Sap oth Fae Seep 7 Be 4 gan me 2) gee ree me $5 1.50 - 1.99 pbb oo Aes Be 0 2.00 - 2.49 ; 0 2.50 - 2.99 3 0 3.00 - 3.49 ; 0 3.50 - 3.99 0 4.00 - 4.49 0 4.50 - 4.99 ; 0 5.00 - GREATER ER Tae NEN NS oes | cin 0 TOTAL OR Ge My WE Ta ie MD (Continued) B82 (Sheet 2 of 4) Table B24 (Continued) MONTH JUL PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERTOD (SECONDS) TOTAL NGS alle Bae sae ale 7A le Gate Na AOS Wace N= i/o) Mo doy) | Gar slow? Gia? Bae? Co) Wa) Milo? Weta) S09) LONGER 0.00 - .49 2 3) 28 ee ose lO aa 3 379 onl) Sosy c {ASRS Om en OOM Oe ip Ne 0 3 7 : 373 1.00 - 1.49 ‘ : } NY) 7 7 a 3 c : c : 47 aa) S Nove) : 6 ‘ : : : . : : ‘ : : - 0 2.00 - 2.49 : : c : : : c : : - ; ; : 0 Lom) > Lesh) : c ‘ . : : : : : : : c F 0 3.00 - 9.49 : : : . . 0 Joe) aay . : : . . ) 4.00 - eae : : : c : : : Q : ) me uQ A : : c : a : : : 6 00 - GREATER ‘ : . : : : : : 0 TOTA Ay WR) eS Rat) SA) UE aH a 3 MONTH AUG PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERTOD( SECONDS) TOTAL lie ahem “Oe Soe foe Wo ode Woe MWS 9 Wa a> lucite Wo ee) eG) EG) SoG ck) Wo BloS) ak Mae) WP Mela) Moo? ah lta 0.00 - .49 : WM 38 97 SM wm ws 2 8 4 7 926 onl) 2 okh) : 15 PD he Gy Wy) BRR ENN) : . 360 1.00 - 1.49 c 0 : 4 36 18 4 7 Eames 7 7 : 98 aa) S Nasa : : . : : 7 : : : 4 : 4 . 15 2.00 - 2.49 : 5 0 : a 0 : ; : : 0 Boal) = Lothy : c : : 9 00 - 3.49 : c 7 . c 0 3.00 - 3.99 . : : yy 4.00 - 4.49 : . : 0 c c : : : - : c - 0 4.50 © Wah) : q : : : : : : : : : c : 0 3.00 - GREATER : : : : : : : : : : : : : ) TOTAL ) 8 1) ) Me Se fy iW) si fe at 7 MONTH SEP PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HE TORT (METERS) PERTOD (SECONDS) TOTAL WhO Sade Go B= Ha Fad Eo Foe NOW ilo wos Me Wide Ho) Bo) Sh) oo) Tab) la) ot) a?) Sloe) Wo? (Malet 0.00 - .49 : q B CeCe 40 2) ec 4a OZ mW oa) ot : Oo ay RG 1 Oe Gn 70 4 485 1.00 - 1.49 c c o ml WwW @ Wy she 4 12 24 8 8 238 Host) 2 eth) 0 : : 4 8 4 : : : : : : c 16 Ze S249 : c : : : c : c : o : : : 0 Boal) 2 Zoek) : : : : 0 3.00 - 3.49 : c : : 0 Sioa) > alaWe) - F c : : c 0 4.00 - hee : : 3 : : 0 4.50 - 4.9 . : d : c 0 : : 0 3.00 - BREATER : : : . ¢ : : : : : : . : Q TOTAL 0 A) OE) See GR) SA I) AP a (Continued) (Sheet 3 of 4) B83 Table B24 (Concluded) MONTH OCT PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HE IGHT (METERS) PER TOD (SECONDS) TOTAL NGS ac Ast aol ma Hake ES Ves Mii ple Wee WA te fos} Boe Mh) ala ith Hot? las) oS) No WN NR) Wei) LaNGER 0.00 - .49 3 : 9 oS We WS WE ay ly 3 207 oak = Shy . 7 Ue Ue US Re 6 422 1.00 - 1.49 c c c 49 76 34 AN) f° a) ale 9 : 269 Rea) = Gh) : : : a} ae 6 : q a He ie je 87 200) S249 : : : : : x) : : 6 : 6 i) : a faa) S BeGk) : : : : c : : : : : : : : 0 3.00 = 3.49 : a : 0 - : : : : : . 0 : i) Saal) S Bo5h) : : Q 4.00 - 4.49 : : : 0 4.50 - 4.99 : 0 : c : 5 0 d C : : : 0 i 2.00 - GREATER : : c . : . . c : : : : : 9 TOTAL 3 Ye eA SE A) MONTH NOV PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HE IGHT (METERS) PERTOD(SECONDS) TOTAL hate wie C= Sot a= Tee Gi Go Wie lc Nee Bose ila Boe) 1 ene | Sigs) GPs To esl) Ges) Nae) BGG Melo) Neck? Malas 0.00 - .49 5 : 1é Gi We Neen 9 @ iW Bm gd -& : 195 oa) > oth) 3 OH 8) HOY Loyeegee QO ae a 497 1.00 - 1.49 : 5 c oe 6 3 6) is ea a7 9 234 Noa) = Wath) : a : : 3 é . 3 fy eB} : 69 2.00 - 2.49 : : : : Q : c : 3 : 6 ; : q 2.00 - 2.99 - ‘ : a : c 4 : 0 : : c : 0 3.00 - 3.49 c 0 : c : 5 c . : : c : 6 Boal © Boy : : : : : : : : a : : : 0 4.00 - 4.49 : . : 0 4.00 - 4.29 : d : : : : 0 3.00 - GREATER c : . 0 TOTAL 6 66 128 18! 138 56 po WN TK HU} HUN} MONTH DEC PERCENT OCCURRENCE{X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL A= gh@= Bolle Galle Bolle dole Goll Vole AWA Noe WAaie Mine Bok) hee) ENR) GG) iG) Wat? tela) Goh) Oa MG Mla) Melad/ ‘Lancer 0.00 - .49 : : 1 @ @ @ © 2& a 2 © w aA 242 onl) 2 oth) : 24 5807853 ay Oh 2B 7? 41 q 7 201 1.00 - 1.49 : c WM ob Ee ey : 2 10 7 24 a c 230 ost) > sash) c - c : 6 : ; 3 0 Pee . : 2 2.00 = 2.49 : : : c c : : : : c c : : o Boal) = Bosh) : : : : : c : : : : i) 3.00 - 3.49 : : : . ‘ : : : c : 0 Sioa) S aul) : : : : : : : 0} noe - 4,49 c : : c : 0 a } > Be) P ‘i 0 5700 S BRERTER 0 . 0 TOTA 0 @ 7 1 2 &@ FH ww Sh Oo (Sheet 4 of 4) B84 7.0 6.0 ANNUAL 80-82 Ss) o ti | ai re) = ko 21 Gee) wo” t3 aS ran] © 10° F F 10° PERCENT GREATER THAN [INDICATED a. Annual es JAN-MAR 80-82 Pt SR Ae ee Breed ie APR-JUN 80-82 —, S- JUL-SEP Bea ——.. OENSDEC st-32 3 —__ ANNUAL 80-82 HETGHT (METERS) Figure B28. 10 10 PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED b. Seasonal 1980 through 1982 annual and seasonal cumulative distribution of wave height for gage 615 B85 as i] ANNUAL BO-82 20 w o w ~ = % “JONBNYNIDO 40 LINSNOBYSs 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER 10.9 8.0- 9.0- 759 8259 959 PERIOD, SEC 7.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 4.9 5.9 6.9 3.0- 3.9 -0- 2.9 1 Annual a. 2s JAN-MAR 80-82 APR-JUN 80-82 NB: JUL-SEP 80-82 OCT-DEC 80-82 (ODM aM LMM A AAAAAAAYANNANYSSNANANSSASN ASSN SSAA Liles lee ee se ZZ) LBIBBRSBBBRBABABY ILI IIT KAASAAASASSSAS :0:0:0:0100:0.0.9,9,0.6:010.0.0., COLILIMIAIIT LLM ISN SASNASNAAANSASASNAAASAT DT TF TTT TT TT FT TD RAANASAAASNN IATA LP AF A A ADA AF A AAA AA AA Ps RBAANNASANASSASASAN Daaaaaa aaa aaa aa a aM ee. KRANANNNANNNSYANNANNSSS 20 ULL LLL LS SS TCL eed IK SRSA AANA AANA ANAAASSASSS aaa a a re rd COAL LL MLL LIM MMT LI MIT MM LP ID SSSS VY SSESESSSNAVNAASAAN ASS AANSS SANA SSNNANNNANN Pa%a%araMa%arare ate ra arate! CZ ZL SCS SLL SL ZS) INNANANANANASY ‘a%a%e I KAAANAA o U CS] uw fo) w =] % “JINBYYNIDO JO AINSNOIYs - 14.0- 17.0- 9 16.9 LONGER Os PERIOD, SEC Seasonal b. 1980 through 1982 annual and seasonal distri- bution of peak spectral wave period for gage 615 Figure B29. B86 € 9 6 cl fl 8t G19 a8e) JOS SJYSTOH OAEM JO aoUEISTSJed cgbl YsnoaUL Obl G2d eTAeL €e 8e Gy SS BT SN Ga) tng) er B87 HEIGHT, M PERIOD, S FEB 1982 AUG 1982 Pe ING Ao eS HAR 1982 Yn Vee APR 1962 JUN 1982 SCH NUsNO-NUANOK-NUZSHOK—NUsVOK-NUBeUO-Huwo” t 3 5 7 9 UW 13 1S 17 19 a asaaasti ss Ss 7 GO KHBHEVwrda BaD A HN DAY OF THE MONTH a. Wave heights pa MAR 1982 15 10 wee | CV aiie ea AC o a APR 1982 Ss 10 3 Mp Wo 0 20 WAY 1982 is 10 5 it) 1 3 5 7 9 1) 13 15 17 19 at a3 asoaast 3s SF H7GKHHS Vw wea BoaDT BU DAY OF THE MONTH b. Wave periods Figure B30. Time-history for gage 610 B88 Table B26 1982 Wave Statistics for Gage 610 Standard Standard Mean Deviation Mean Deviation Period Period Extreme Number Month Height, m Height, m sec sec Height, m Date Observations Jan 0.9 ORS 9.1 3.4 2.9 1 114 Feb 1.3 0.7 8.9 2.4 3.5 18 114 Mar 0.9 OFS 8.3 2a 22 1 116 Apr 0.9 0.4 Toll 1.8 2.2 28 111 May 0.8 0.3 9.7 16 2.3 12 120 Jun 0.8 0.4 9.4 Bol Jot 10 104 Jul 0.5 0.3 Sul 2.2 2.2 1 94 Aug 0.6 0.2 oll 2.4 loll 13 58 Jan-Mar 1.0 0.5 8.8 Boll 3/25) Feb 341 Apr-Jun ORS 0.4 8.9 2>2 2ES May 335 Jul-Sep 0.5 0.3 8.0 3 Jul 152 Annual 0.8 ORS 8.7 25 355) Feb 828 B89 HET GHT (M) PERIOD {SECONDS) ewe YF oOo sv’ Oo W LEGEND x EXTREME O MEAN | +1 STANDARD DEVIATION 2 | 1 J 0 3 F MA A M JS J A S DO N OD J-H A-J J-S 0O-D 82 80-81 TIME a. Wave heights : LEGEND 16 Saga O MEAN 14 l +1 STANDARD DEVIATION 13 12 U- 10 J F M A HM JS J A S O N OD J-M A-J J-S O-D 8280-81 TIME b. Wave periods Figure B31. 1982 extreme, mean, and standard deviation of wave heights and periods for gage 610 B90 HEIGHT (METERS) PER TOD(SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- ZiT 9 Ad) eed) EO ed Me ed) med Ge Ond) eel eQneidsonnl 6.9 LONGER 0.00 - .49 1 a 2 4 6 NO ds GaP HA se 3 175 oa!) 2 ohh) : (Me eet CD a) SE SAP SD ei) 6 319 1.00 - 1.49 Yo M8 Gy A 5 i 2 214 Loa) = oY : Be WO a k) 6 8 8 F) p : 60 2.00 - 2.49 ; : 4 Z 2 : 2 2 ! 18 Bosh) S Bok) c 0 a c a 1 1 1 4 : c 3 3.00 - 3.49 c : . : 0 : 1 Q : 4 5 3.00 - 3.99 : . . . 0 : : c C 2 Z 4.00 - ree a : : : : : : c : : 0 4.90 - : : : c : : : : 6 : 0 3.00 - GREATER : : . : . : . . c : : : 0 TOTAL SZ SO LOSS OG Ta V77 OG 450 eso ets EASONAL JAN-MAR PERCENT OCCURRENCE (10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HE IGHT (METERS) PERTOD(SECONDS) TOTAL ae chide Aa aio Gole ot Ela Se NOW WG Wace WS H/a(t= oe? la? aS) Bok) a? To 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER a0 2 oth : 3 3 3 . x : 12 3 A 6 9 42 aa) Sot 6 9 ol se GEN NTE SL 2) 9 339 1.00 - 1.49 : RPE) aS 4 é 3 262 1.50 - 1.99 : 6 fit gay 6 9 6 3 98 2.00 - 2.49 ; . : (re 6 : : 6 3 36 ead) > Bayle : : : : c q 3 3 o : 9 J200) > 3.49 : : : 0 : 3 : 7 Me Shas) © eloehy : 0 : : : ) 6 4,00 - 4,49 : c : a : 0 4.50 - 4.99 : 5 : : 0 o. oe = GREATER : : ¢ : : : : C : : . 0 (il RY ise ATS DRE AL SEASONAL APR-JUN PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PER TOD(SECONDS) TOTAL Hod wo Go Be oe ol Eloi Walle NO ata fate: NC U7 oe) law? Bla) ot) ae? a) EEG) Ba) Sab? blob? Sloe? SoG? UTS 0.00 - .49 : fl 6 Sle Oe) eS Oe ened 3 165 ce) = Yh : WS OE eR) Hs? TU} . 6 6 244 1.00 - 1.49 : We at) 1593 7 42 6 3 3 Pay) 1.90 - 1.99 : : 3 : 0 DP We y 9 c 48 2.00 - 2.49 : : 3 . 3 3 9 9 fecehl) 2 ath) c 0 : - : ) 3.00 - 3.49 : : : 0 3.50 - 3.99 : : : 0 4,00 - 4.49 : : : 0 4.50 - 4.99 : . : 0 9.00 - GRERTER : ¢ : . : . : : é : : : 0 TOT 2) 25 et Oe G2) 1d Be e203 0) ed 114 a 2 Table B27 1982 Annual and Seasonal Joint Distribution of Wave Height Versus Peak Period for Gage 610 ANNUAL PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD (Continued) B91 Table B27 (Concluded) SEASONAL JUL-SEP PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD(SECONDS) TOTAL HAWS Awe Gee Boe fan Wa a Vol i= lee aA eal W/E ok) Bok) bbe) io ia? ok) Uo) ot) Ma) at) Deiat? (Uae 0.00 - .49 Do de yd i A eR) ty A : 307 ach) = othy oMEZONA PALS! TOMI a, Nt, aie, 0K) ah yz) . : 420 1.00 - 1.49 : c 0 |6 OR 13 : c : ; 0 : 29 Heal) > oth) 7 : 7 2.00 - 2.49 7 : 7 arall) > Bout) ; 0 3.00 - 3.49 0 0 Slonil) > alavky . : 0 4.00 - 4.49 c ) 4,00 - 4,99 : 0 3.00 - GREATER . 0 TOTAL 330 2007819 1450184 «6204 «61053 0 B92 HEIGHT (METERS) 0.00 - .49 230 - 299 1.00 - 1.49 1.50 - 1.99 2.00 - 2.49 2000 - 2.99 3.00 - 3.49 3.50 - 3.99 4,00 - oe 4.50 - 4.99 5.00 - GREATER TOTA HEIGHT (METERS) 0.00 - .49 00 - 299 1.00 - 1.49 1,50 - 1.99 2.00 - 2.49 2.90 - 2.99 3.00 - 3.49 2.50 - 3.99 4.00 - 4,49 4.50 - 4,99 5.00 - GREATER TOT HEIGHT (METERS) 0.00 - .49 cal) Athy 4.00 - 1.49 1.50 - 1.99 2.00 - 2,49 2en0 = 2.99 3.00 - 3.49 3.50 - 3.99 4.00 - 4,49 4,50 - 4,99 Ba oy GREATER 1982 Monthly Joint Distribution of Wave Height 1,0- 3.0- ao oat 1.0= Gow 3.0- 3.9 0sman0= 2) 8G) 9 6 9 Table B28 Versus Peak Period for Gage 610 MONTH JAN PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD PERTOD( SECONDS) TOTAL (ai Baie 0 ale Glaliie WAS ie: Dei éctko SS Seti) pe po les Hag tla GSP Kies Slee aleGh pee) LONGER 9 9 9 A 9 35 9 4 18 24 124 88 93 $l 18 9 44 44 %% 79 18 519 18 44 35 9 35 26 26 5 9 202 5 24 61 19 5 9 4 114 9 18 3 ‘ é 9 36 z 5 ‘ ; 9 3 9 : : ' ; ‘ 0 : 5 : A : 0 : 5 : s : H) z < a ‘ : ; } f i : ‘ i : 4 E : Fi 0 SS 4 ea lia 54 44123 88 96 97 3d MONTH FER PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERTOD PERTOD (SECONDS) TOTAL #i0=- 3.0= 6.0- 7.0= 8.0=79.0= 10,0- f10= 1220= 14.0= 17.0= BoC) Bo) Oe) oD aS = SL MoS? SUNS) aI nab?) (tales? é 0 ‘ a A ‘ 5 9 9 2 9 9 45 45 135 108 18 9 9 423 18 18 72 34 18 18 63 45 {8 5 306 ; 18 36 36 18 18 9 9 9 0 153 F 4 9 18 9 : 6 6 9 A 45 5 5 A A 9 9 ‘ ; 13 A ' a ; 9 77 ;: 36 . 6 5 5 19 ; 19 A a : 5 4 0 : ; i 6 4 5 ; d 0 6 , 5 , < 5 : ; 5 i) 27 43 126 99 99 99° 9207 = 1162 99 9 9 MONTH MAR PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10)} OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD PERTOD( SECONDS) TOTAL 4.0- 5.0- 46.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.9- {1.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- Ho oe? 6.9 78 88 969 109 tO) 1859 1659 LONGER 5 5 ‘ : 5 5 F ; A A 0 17 43 34 40 fee) UT IGS 17 ‘ 672 9 26 95 69 26 9 34 9 " j 2/7 6 j : 9 : : 9 9 4 27 9 9 i 9 i Pay ; : 3 Fi : ‘ a 0 : j ; ; x i‘ ‘ : : ; ‘ 0 , : . ‘ : 0 0 5 ; 5 : F ‘ 0 : 0 A : 5 : 5 ° 0 26 69 129 i147 104 356 198 8 148 17 0 i) (Continued) (Sheet 1 of 3) B93 Table B28 (Continued) MONTH APR PERCENT OCCURRENCE‘X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0- 9.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7,0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- Dat Sal 7 49) 509 G09 78) 859 9.9 10L9 SRi9) S1SPoNe1 629 wONGER 0.00 - .49 } ; f , Se err ee Gree aT) ieee ! : 135 50 - .99 : O27 RZD RAS. AT RG eS 8) 72 mio Mee f 3 477 1.00 - 1.49 ‘ Pa bD18 VRS6 PBI HiT? Pies Fok iaz7 eRe: f ‘ 324 1.50 - 1.99 i ; ; ae) : 2027, a NOM ee : : : 54 2.00 - 2.49 ; ‘ ; Z : 9 ; : E ’ B : : 9 2.50 - 2.99 : i : , : : : z : i é : 2 i) 4.00 - 3,49 9 4.50 - 3.99 0 4,00 - 4,49 0 4,50 - 4,99 0 5 0 “00 - GREATER ne ee oe ae Pe LT iy roe roe : TOTAL OO Be es a eh Gee Ws OG MONTH MAY PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (NETERS} PERIOD(SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.9- Boi) Bae? log? lo) ot) oe) Eo) at) alae? bay? aIK)GS) iat) LUTE 0.00 - .49 : : : 0 : a OO : : g : 164 ol) 2 oth 5 0 : ¢ 8 42 67 242 192 47 : : : 619 1.00 - 1.49 : c 0 : . : o 8 2 8 g 8 166 How) > Wokh) : : : : 5 : : : c Ne a : : 34 Z2.00 - 2,49 a 6 0 : : : ; : 0 : a 8 16 oll) S Bein) 5 5 : a ci : : ; : : : : 0 3.00 - 3.47 i) 3.00 - 3.99 0 4,00 - 4,49 0 4.90 - 4.99 0 3.00 - GREATER : c : c : ¢ : : : . . : : 0 TOTAL i) y) 0 0 Bs One 20s 0) 0.7 2 Oo ae 8 MONTH JUN PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PER TIOD(SECONDS) TOTAL ho aio Gale aa inl a> Glee Se pds igi Wee Woe W7/ati Bo) Saw Go) a tat) nt) flee Sa? We) hoy) eS) LTS 0.00 - .49 c , : : WO oO eB MY) o tO MY 192 oa) > oth) c : 17 2 7 OO GS c 8) 028 1.00 - 1.49 F : 10 : HD OW aE} SD . : 222 Hoel) > Wath) : : : c c : : : 1) BP HKD ¢ : 38 2.00 - 2,49 : F fe a a 0 Bol) S Lash) 0 3.00 - 3.49 0 SUN Saag 0 4,00 - 4,49 9 4.99 - 4,99 : 0 3.00 - GREATER : : : : 0 : - : c 0 F c : 0 TOT 0 OB) GS ES Mei) AY (Continued) (Sheet 2 of 3) B94 HEIGHT (METERS) 0.00 - .49 oa) Soy 1.00 - 1.49 1.50) = 1.99 2.00 - 2.49 aall) = Aaxh) 9.00 - 3,49 3.00 - 3.99 4.00 - 4.49 4.90 - 4,99 3.00 - GREATER TOTAL HEIGHT (NETERS) 0.00 - .49 a) > oth 1.00 - 1.49 1150 - 1.99 > = t ha . SI ~o - 4,99 - GREATER TAL NP os COP ho DmNGmnowm Sel coos > o~ SD => i} a = oO Table B28 (Concluded) MONTH JUL PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL Hie We Bite Se Ble Ft Gude F402 80.02 Wis We Mae tLe 2 Ge) TG) Ro) Go) pes? GG) GHG) SO) SG) MeL) WG) Muna i mM MM Mm OM A eM Um mM lm, 629 Re AOR a eA i Gly aPC RE MCh WPA a MRR ‘rah 2 289 Se PANE MELB yy ROAD CAAT Tuabvly y as ult aN abana oe 4 Ae 74 oe eee i UNG AL Me me et 0 Lf Nee an Abe aie orci manatees |" 1! a ae eee SMS sci Ne eae 0 aan eo tam Se ih Me eM ee at De 0 iy Ald ee Stl ean nem WER Jere eka 0 TUL RT dilly ee Me Ne VON re ke eae 9 Migr tal Cia vith. oy EAN i 3 Mow mm wf oh Oo} eh a fm om Rm Bt A MONTH AUG PERCENT OCCURRENCE‘X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL IOS She Gite Gile Alle Tole ELCs oe M00 lle 10 Ne the DO) a GG) a6) Gee) aes) Gh See) SoG) iMG) TG WAG) (ane ea Re ae SN ae Gia mente ee ERT ee LV iy os 308 , a OO) LEN OI 637 nan RieeMI EN eerie ey taped ale: 24 HERI © Sietgheweie Fen pee) ee ferns 17 MMAR) tin Gk elie me ARMS od: 0 ike l ASUS ee AIL ) c ek ce eae ame (y - 0 Baghitee ee Jere pi Vat ke ae i a as ry aes gis aera 0 ea bee, MUN eae ee feet Ne 0 Sea Cer). Pe ea ie Ve Ne” ea es 0 TL Sec nae ns ME UR AR Ar ts CAE fe Mets te aie as 0 ® M8 7 Ms Ge 2h Me i © 8 wm Wo oO B95 (Sheet 3 of 3) HEIGHT (METERS) HEIGHT (METERS) 7.0 5 ANNUAL 82 So oO ro] g 10" 10° 10° 10° PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED a. Annual = eee ANS MAReGe | ar a i wea NE oes APR-JUN 82 —.,_-— JUL-SEP se ANNUAL 82 10 10 PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED b. Seasonal Figure B32. 1982 annual and seasonal cumulative distribution of wave height for gage 610 B96 7.0 6.0 4.0 5.0 HEIGHT (METERS) 3.0 2.0 -t 0 1 10 10° PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED 2 ° APR 82 CO ey a ae ae Re es MAY 82 JUN 82 o Ww wn tae be + OJ = ko a Ea wm 7) ac 2.0 1.0 10 10 PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED Figure B33. 1982 monthly cumulative distribution of wave height for gage 610 (Continued) BOT HEIGHT (METERS) 7.0 1.0 2.0 3.0 4.0 5.0 6.0 0.0 1 10 PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED Figure B33. (Concluded) B98 2s 2 ANNUAL 82 o nN w o % “FONIYYNIDO 40 AINSNOIYS 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- 8.0- 8.9 7.0- PERIOD, SEC 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 5.9 3,.0- 1,.0- 16.9 LONGER 10.9 11.9 13.9 9.0- 9.9 7.9 6.9 Roe cee) 2.9 Annual a. as N oO a Cc = z c Ss APR-JUN 82 JUL-SEP 82 20 w “JONIYYNIDO 40 AINANOIY4 [oad 1B ecey oz fo] KI on [or *(O vt * Ors KAAAAAAASMASASAY Y= Popo |) RSIS =) 0 RAAAANAAANAANAAASNAAAAAASSSASAY = 'o O- “Oo o— oO Oe IANANAAANAANAANANAANSNSN a” OOO OC IO OOO OKO OL Os a Le INN AAANAANANNAANNANSY oa 71 Oo. oN nN Vexeterevererece® ° w o , SEC PERIOD Seasonal b. 1982 annual and seasonal distribution of peak spectral wave period for gage 610 Figure B34. B99 | 2 € 96 Ut OL Si We eh L dJasuoy] Jo (s)Aeq dATANOaSUOD Lb L © 8 uu mM Oo + ee eee eS SS eee 6cd 8T9eL O19 adeH JOT SJYZTOH OAEM JO DOUSISTSU9q 2Qbl B100 Table B30 1980 Through 1982 Wave Statistics for Gage 610 Standard Standard Mean Deviation Mean Deviation Period Period Extreme Number Month Height, m Height, m sec sec Height, m Date Observations Jan 1.1 0.7 8.8 3.0 3.4 1980 235 ‘ Feb 1.2 0.6 9.0 2.44 355) 1982 181 Mar leat 0.6 9.3 2.8 3.4 1980 280 Apr 0.8 0.4 8.7 2.7 Bo3} 1980 270 May 0.8 0.4 8.6 2.2 3.0 1981 315 Jun 0.7 0.4 8.2 2.6 2.2 1981 234 Jul 0.5 0.3 7.9 2.3 2.2 1982 195 Aug 0.7 0.6 8.4 2.3 3.2 1981 173 Sep 0.9 0.5 10.2 2.5 350 1981 148 Oct Vol 0.7 8.5 Bol 3.8 1980 217 Nov 1.1 0.8 9.0 3.3 4.0 1981 213 Dec 1.0 0.6 8.3 2.9 368 1980 207 Jan-Mar 1.1 0.6 9.1 2.8 3.5 Feb 696 1982 Apr-Jun O57 0.4 8.5 25 3.0 May 819 1981 Jul-Sep Oni 0.5 So {/ 2.6 352 Aug 516 1981 Oct-Dec lc 4 0.7 8.6 3.0 4.0 Nov 637 1981 Annual 0.9 0.6 07 Qe 4.0 Nov 2,668 1981 B101 HEIGHT 1M) PERIOD (SECONDS) eat KF fh NY Oo 8 LEGEND x EXTREME O MEAN | +1 STANDARD DEVIATION x x x x x x x x x x xX 7 eK A KR 2S AS ON OF SNR 5 0-0i60-62 TIME a. Wave heights LEGEND O MEAN l +1 STANDARD DEVIATION J F M A M J J A S QO N ODO J-M A-J J-S O-D 80-82 TIME b. Wave periods Figure B35. 1980 through 1982 extreme, mean, and standard deviation of wave heights and periods for Gage 610 B102 1980 Through 1982 Annual and Seasonal Joint Distribution of Wave Height Versus Peak Period for Gage 610 HEIGHT (METERS) opi) > bh) CN ee ee FC PQ I = = «© © © «8 8 e 8 8 SusVMomov ea ene aes HEIGHT (METERS) 0.00 - .49 HEIGHT (METERS) GREATER TAL ANNUAL PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD Os. Ss Aa as) yg) Cah) | S en Onmez3 6 { ye) ae ‘2 zH0= 40s ne) 8) Oe) seers Ones 10 1 5.0- Dag, 3.0- 3.9 Table B31 PERIOD (SECONDS) 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- CyaG eat) tas) Sow) ay) eh eR) ah AS tec n OO mG ON: 43 2 19 Wy ay LS lz 6 7 9 1 8 2 2 4 2 3 2 2 6 1 2 c c : c 1 LZ cent Saint 3 SEASONAL JAN-MAR PERTOD (SECONDS) 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- Oot) Tob? tot) ak) SY) 10783 SEASONAL APR-JUN 11.0= 12.0= 14.0- Woo) lay) I al 18 AY diay Ze 18 618 6 6 10 7 b 7 3 3 2 2 1 4 1 1 i 1 we GE) Gl WS W202 Wane Wel) 11.9 16.9 LONGER 4 50 22 9 6 4 PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD PERCENT QCCURRENCE(N10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD ie De Gas 2.9 3.9 4.9 2 ef 2 Ge Re 2 om 3 .0- Doll PERIOD( SECONDS) &.0= 7.0= 9.0 9.0= 10,0- bo) ae) Ge) See) Oee my 9 MO) bh Ss Sh iB om iy 2h we sh h GQ @ MM 4 beta aie ROM ea AS 73°«4195 «175°«179~—«158 (Continued) B103 11.0- ae 14.0- 17.0- 11.9 16.9 LONGER A 9) me 4 yO aye Ww gee A Boge OF, {e aasee ate ce) WRN ite ot Tete ane a 2 8g 13.9 11 Wie 16.9 LANGER TOTAL TOTAL TOTAL Table B31 (Concluded) ——— ee EE eee ee ee eee eee ONAL JUL-SEP PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X15) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL Heke the AA ol wale Vole the Vode Nici Wa Woe ROA 7/ol)= Bos) ot) at) Bho) fa) oP that) Da) R@ aw Bay BI DMG? Lae Way) = ahh) A NY Gi) gs gl Gl Me Mw @ We ay} 2 373 ae!) ath! 0 1 Zee So ee 0 yeh) a eR) : 426 1.00 - 1.49 : : : Wy eh MP ND 4 16 Hy § : 129 Hoe) = loth) . : 5 2 6 2 4 é 2 Ae liz 4 6 39 2.00 - 2.49 : : : 0 2 : Peele 4 22 ol) > oek) - . : c : 2 4 4 19 3.00 - 3.49 4 2 2 § ae00 = 3.79 5 : 0 4.00 - 4,49 0 0 4.00 - 4.99 c 0 . u) Bo gh My RY SH ey) eb ta 2 9.00 - GREATER TOTAL SEASONAL OCT-DEC PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HE IGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL §o0> doe Ae walle Gate Pol told Sol Na te OF 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- 2.9 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 193.9 16.9 LONGER 0.00 - .49 | 3 3 Ge} Sh MW 7 We 2. a 6 173 200 - 299 Mol UU St 42 a7 iv 20 : 3795 1.00 - 1.49 Cee; a Yh a Oe) 17 6 227 1.50 - 1.99 2 yo a wD) 9 3 6 a} NS) 107 A) > Bol) : 17 é 5) 3) rn) 6 33 Zoe) © Bork) 2 6 9 r) 3 ") 6 a7 3.00 - 3.49 2 2 : D 6 15 onl) S awh) : : 3 h) 3 il 4.00 - ee : : 2 is 4.30 - . . 0 3.00 - GREATER . : c : . : 0 ¢ : : : q 0 TOTAL 144 48 77 162 130 101 78 92 122 100 70 6 B104 Table B32 1980 Through 1982 Monthly Joint Distribution of Wave Height Versus Peak Period for Gage 610 MONTH JAN PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PER TOD(SECONDS) TOTAL VO=S0=) 40= FS 0- G0 O= ee Ose FeO 10808 OS 12505 1450= 1705 2.9 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER 0.00 - .49 . : 9 9 9 AEM 2 Ay a 4 9 Me 151 ook!) = ath? c 17 o=—— ol CR} eB DRE a 9 397 1.00 - 1.49 : : Fa lie nibae 2h dw X() a te 2 : 4 214 1.90 - 1.99 : : 4 o 6h} AS 9 9 : 4 129 2.00 - 2.49 : : 0 6 ‘ely, 4 4 9 9 4 9 60 Ball) 2 rai 5 : 0 . : 4 : c) ile! 9 4 9 43 3.00 - 9.49 : 9 4 13 3.00 - 3.99 : 0 4,00 - itee : 0 4.90 - 4.99 : : . : : 5 c 0 5 : : : : 0 3.00 - GREATER : 0 : : ; : 0 : : : c : : i) TOTAL MW Re ae a SS KY SF 2s} cd HONTH FER PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD( SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0- 9.0- 4.0- 5.0- 4.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- Zettel Ont 9) 6507/99, nO LO OL Nigel ong am LONGER 0.00 - .49 6 : : 2 6 : o7 os) = otny Ba a) Sl eR) at 6 6 412 1.00 - 1.49 al @2 SB ae) eB) RA o : 287 1.50 - 1.99 H OC) en 3 6 151 2.00 - 2.49 (Hl i) Ci le ) 6 : 08 2.90 - 2.99 6 6 : 12 3.00 - 9.49 6 oY 2 3.90 - 3.99 11 il 4.00 - 4.49 6 4.30 - 4,99 i) Je oe ~ GREATER 0 ® ) 7 Se &) Ge Ol Ss See Ww fe & MONTH MAR PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERTOD(SECONDS) TOTAL HoWS che hile sale. (ole. dole Ete oe aie ioe ue AG 14.0- 17.0 fob) Bo) Go) oct) To? Ela? Gok? Roe) Hho! 16.9 LONGER 0.00 - .49 : : 4 ¢ Aion 6 eet : 14 4 : 20 oak) Sh) 1 Wo Sk Sh mh OG ERO) IY : 483 1.00 - 1.49 Lee 2 90 43s 48 Oo AY 290 last) = ath) - : : C 7 7 4 4 618 ly lw He 97 2.00 - 2.49 0 a : 4 0 4 4 : A 4 4} 2.90 - 2.99 0 : : : 0 . 4 4 4 4 7 2 3.00 - 3.49 4 4 4 : 7 : 19 owl) Saath) : 0 4.00 - 4.49 0 4.50 - 4.99 0 5.00 - GREATER : . : : . c : : : : ‘ : 0 TOTAL eee) SUS RE) SR} SIGE) TS 0 (Continued ) (Sheet 1 of 4) B105 Table B32 (Continued) MONTH APR PERCENT QCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HE IGHT (METERS) PERTOD(SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 4.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- 2.9 3.9 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER 0.00 - .49 : 4 : 4 It at a es OO go ai : 212 ne) Sth) 7 7 2 2 W 104 36 36) 68 8 7 «48 : 529 1.00 - 1.49 : M71 ND REM A ae ENS) 7 7 . é 191 sah) = Wath) : o : : aM 4 615 7 . 4 4 : 49 2.00 - 2.49 : 4 cl 4 4 7 : : 19 Pena) > Mosh) : . 0 3.00 - 3.49 : 0 Je00) = 3099 : y) 4.00 - 4.49 : ‘ ) 4,50 - 4, a 0 3.00 - GREATER : c c : 0 : 5 c : ' 0 TOTAL UM aa Sh iP) MRT u) MONTH MAY PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- {11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 1 fos) alo) GoGo ck) ot) Bat? ak? Mae? = Wo) los? Wao) LNGER 0.00 - .49 c : 3 q fy? th a 10s . 219 aa) = ath : o «ob oy Cel 7} ike} GR BSA 3 : 492 1.00 - 1.49 : 6 rd | G0 CS 6 3 3 209 oalt) S Nash) : : 0 ceil : a) ils) x) 6 6 F 5 90 2.00 - 2,49 “ o a : : 6 3 : 6 : 6 q ; 2 Lady) > Zovlel : : : : c : c : . a 0 ¢ : 0 3.00 - 3.49 3 3 Shoal) © Geek) 0 4.00 - ae 0 4.90 - 4,9 0 oe ee = aren 0 o © Mm @ & We eH We — MM wm 8 MONTH JUN PERCENT OCCURRENCE (X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HEIGHT (METERS) PERTOD( SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0- 9.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- Co Bo) het? os) as? ak) Sak) Ft) ot) tio) MoS) Lal Tete 0.00 - .49 : 4 Fy 2G Oyo Oo 0 43 nO 9 0) 4 280 ced) > oth) ao A CR be SD GW OR a : 9 9 372 1.00 - 1.49 : c 4 a 4 OTs) bo at 4 : : 110 1.50 - 1.99 : 0 c . 9 : . c As) 9 a 31 2.90 - 2.49 4 4 8 Baal) 2 ark) 0 3.00 - 3.49 0 : 0 3.90 = 3.99 Q 4.00 - ian : 0 4.50 - 0 3.00 - BAEATER : ‘ A : : ‘ : . : : A ‘ : 0 TOTAL 6 2 36 Itt 60 81 244 166 il 739 22 39) | 6193 (Continued) (Sheet 2 of 4) B106 HEIGHT (METERS) an ges 9 00 - - GREATER OTAL HEIGHT (METERS) > On > & CL Pe OG -Oe0 Ma. Oe CLOT OLGLo sSoMNnomnoMomownsD Be 2 QQ 2S 2S] HEIGHT (METERS) 1.0- oo) p) 0s Loe) 3.0- 3.9 26 21 3.0- ao) Table B32 (Continued) MONTH JUL PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD (Continued) B107 PERIOD(SECONDS) TOTAL 410=)55.0=1 16402 6720= 0800-9505. 10202) aaLInO-W12s0-Bi4n On 7s 0" 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER so) 6G. Ol a Re en. 554 21 ME GUS IAE MEE RECT MONIT IE IS Ee Aum tS. Ry Wee 334 PRNIG Bgl ae 5. 8 15 4h So Be <5 con (Get shes 107 Bp piceston eth Deas l aN a st, an as 3 i ee Be Bet, 0 ; cree is aR es 0 mens ye hi 0 ; aaa ego ings 0 ; at es Oe a 0 YP op te a Wh We. Bl 1G a a HONTH AUG PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL i Sie Adle 7-05 GL> 90> M02 WO (Rie Woe (Pete 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 19.9 16.9 LONGER . 2 WF RE 8 mR Ue OU Cz 324 TEM Saree Te Sania Segue a he Nh Mr Ysa ee Si 481 R12) SOM ERT RUS a OR hee ee ee 81 rm Ream Mei, we Bee Re REN os 36 Ue i AR ee (Domne hele os 35 ND ea tine eo Net am as 18 ee Rah ees eal, Reheat Canoe ake 18 See ON Ree ee Ge 0 ARr Seas os: ee ee a ae 0 Vegi On Ce 2 ae © 0 pee ee aeltr MARREU NN i Sa Fee ee NEN 0 Wy Ol 1h) 0 GR A GH MONTH SEP PERCENT OCCURRENCE‘X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD PERIOD (SECONDS) TOTAL ie Sie Ge je BOs 9.02 Me 10 12, 0- 14.0- 17.0- 4.9 5.9 6.9 7.9 8.9 9.9 10.9 11.9 13.9 16.9 LONGER oe ane Ge ean te ez e an An 2 7 178 oo pO ee 491 Mm Sh ay 9 A Ca 211 7) ies VE. Bhp Rey Fe? He 27 7 90 AOS Eh OC Lan ) Mea 9 can | a eS 27 , 4G 14 7 7 Vay 0 ee 0 ie iat eee 0 ® GR “S) “Ae OF Bl Ske thy 1) 3 (Sheet 3 of 4) Table B32 (Concluded) MONTH OCT PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HE IGHT (METERS) PERTOD (SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 9.0- 9.0- 10.0- 11.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- Rho) BS) Boo) Foto) To Ba So) Mo a) 9 16.9 LONGER 0.00 - .49 c : : : : Mo) ay aS I : 185 aa) Sth : 2 2 sl Bo wo 2 #@ © Rh gw « : 401 1,00 - 1.49 ya 9 «28 Dales 5 Ay 2 : : 176 oat > Wash) 2 ee Ri} 2 14 K) c 94 2.00 - 2.49 : 4 14 oS Ri} 88 Howl) = Loh) - OG 9 Q 9 : 26 3.00 - 3.49 . : : : : 0 3.50 - 3.99 : : 3 c : 3 4,00 - 4.49 ¢ c : : 0 4,09 - 4.99 - c c : c : : 0 3.00 - GREATER c : . : : 0 . , : c c : : Q TOTAL 0 3) a) MGS A] SR) Ast) cS ah 0 MONTH NOV PERCENT OCCURRENCE(X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HE IGHT (METERS) PERIOD( SECONDS) TOTAL 1,0- 3.0- 4.0- 5.0- 4.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- {1.0- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0- Pee) Wales) Be) Bias) oe ae) Go) MG) AG? Sst) Woy) Unies 0.00 - .49 . 9 9 9 F) 0 se NY ® gs vo 169 on) 2 oy c ) & mW O 2 2 MW ea od WO gE c 347 1,00 - 1.49 . : 0 A G7 a IG Q 9 @B WW C 215 1.50 - 1.99 : . r) os ) 2) ie 3 : oS @§ ae 2 146 7,00 - 2.49 c : : . : ‘) : : q yy) : 42 “aa S Bost) : r) 9 : ° 9 : 28 600 - 3,49 0 : 9 9 : a 18 oe) S aoSh) : : : . : : : 9 9 : uv ; 27 0 - 4,49 : . c : : : ‘ : : c a 3 : K} 0 - 4.99 : : : : : . : 0 : . ° : 0 i) - GREATER : : : : : - : : : : : : : iy TOTAL ® ie Gh Ch a fae oR} AE aN u) MONTH DEC PERCENT OCCURRENCE‘X10) OF HEIGHT AND PERIOD HE: 4ETERS) PERIOD(SECONDS) TOTAL 1.0- 9.0- 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- 7.0- 8.0- 9.0- 10.0- a O- 12.0- 14.0- 17.0 ot) Bow Go) Bot? oo? oS) ob) MO ANS) FILE) faa) LONGER 0.06 49 > We he OER eT TGE Ree Stor ele) 25h ane cant 168 Sco gg Be Cee Mer Sache ae GEV Te meen Merey | dir) eek 380 100 49 Rec ee kee Lace) eC oye es EO) 290 15039 > We ee eae, gn mata NOMA EE ANS ANN Gea 81 Aen) oy : ; 5 Bee Sh Ree end i 24 2.50 — ee : bee ae SY = aon Sh ig : 29 AN = 236 3 re rays 5 25 3.50 - 9,99 ‘ i : ; ap hs bay: 0 5.00 - 4.49 ete! cor pee wi eo Te ; i 4.50 - 4.99 we at pase ge EG TE Tire Te Tt Ce eS aa ee eee 0 5.00 - GREATER : ; : : i ; : i ; é : ae 0 TOTA © 86 4 fy TR) 98) 9 GR IRE GR ng (Sheet 4 of 4) B108 JasuoyT 10 (s)feq aatynoesuo) OT9 eseyD LOZ SYYFZTAaY VAVM JO BOUSYSTSAeq PQ6T ysnosyL Og6T €€d eTqeL B109 7.0 ANNUAL 80-82 HEIGHT (METERS) lo 10° 10 10° PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED a. Annual 7.0 common, DINAH BO-B2 eeeeeees APR-JUN 80-82 — JUL-SEP Bo-g2 —— 1 Wotaoee lH ANNUAL 80-82 6.0 5.0 4.0 HEIGHT (METERS) 3.0 2.0 1.0 0.0 10° l PERCENT GREATER THAN INDICATED b. Seasonal Q' 10 Figure B36. 1980 through 1982 annual and seasonal cumulative distribution of wave height for gage 610 B110 Bg ANNUAL 80-82 ———— 1.0= 2.9 % “FON3YYNIDO 40 AINBNOIY4 GhOe EL Zfol0}= u 4.0- 5.0- 6.0- PERIOD, 4.9 Sold 10.0= 11.0= 12.0= 14.0= 17.0= 10.9 3.9 16.9 LONGER 13.9 11.9 9.9 8.9 -9 6.9 5.9 SEC Annual a 25 N 3 (o) oO a : z a g APR-JUN 80-82 JUL-SEP 80-82 20 a td fp 1 4 OZ "oO KJ 22) yO. *(O ta 41 oO. ise) No 1D oO. ot oO oO. -O o- SR Re Ra | OD) Os Cen [o)) RS rita ie OO RO HN KK KK | OD O- q .:O o 41 oO. aS N 1o oO. «tO wo oO” ave) w mez) oO. sw vr ROOOUx 1o oO. Bye) mM 7 1 (=) 6 oN 4 w i) w o % “JON3YYNIIO 4O AINANOBYS PERIOD, SEC Seasonal b. 1980 through 1982 annual and seasonal distribution of peak spectral wave period for gage 610 Figure B37. 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[ited d aoe om i eo, — = 4 as 0°6 0°e OOOl “tas F 0% 0°6 1 "S 006 SOCOSEOOEECOOD t oe O°Z 6°2 004 q oh ZH “LONQNOIU GSO G0 0 LO 0O LO OO SiO O10 0000 0°9 o°e oote Oh (J3S)dL (WOW (LS3)YH 2B 62I oot ZH/th*W “ALISN3O ASY3N3 ZH/e™eH “XLISNSO 18Y3N3 ZH/Z™™W “XLISNGO ASUGN3 ZH/e™eW “ALISN3O AONIN3 B130 (L2@ JO O02 4a0uS) ZH “XON3NOSYS 0S°O BO OO SO COLO ZO CLO SI°0 O1°0 90°000°0 O°11 0°z oooz O° 0°¢ 0061 ~~ (03S) dl (WIOWH (1S3)8H 2881 ZI ZH/e™™W “XLISNGO X8Y3N3 "g€q ounsty ZH “ONSNOGYS GSO SO OO SED OCOD ZO CLO SI°0 01°0 S0°0000 at 0°0 ol Lie 4 os ht 0’sS ON 2 Kye = = ae ON Be (aA) ae 5 fae ene be oll 6¢'2@ ~—0gs ee (23S)dl (W)OWH (LSIIYH 2881 21 Bai ZH “XONGNODUS GSO SHO OO SED OO SO OD Sid O10 S0°000°0 : 00 o's Lhe 4 0s ov O's 0°e £°e OOvl © = = 0°98 na nr at O°Ol “Le 0021 0°8 0°98 S°2 0O1l ih (33S) dl (WOW (LSQ)YH 7B Bl ZI 0°01 ZH “XONGNOGYS 8 8 2 8 (JBS)d2 (WIGHH (1S3)4H 2B Bl 2 { oD! ZH/7™MW ‘XLISNSO ASY3NG ZH/Z™eW “XLISNSG A8Y3N3 ZH/T™PW “XLISNIO ASY3N3 B131 (he #o Le SSeS) (33S)dl (WIGWH LLS3)H Z6I ZI i oo! ZH “XONANOD GSO SO OO SEO OED S°O OO SIO O1°0 S0°0000 0°vT 1°? QO00 Fs = 0°e! 4 ee 0“ O'FI 2°2 oogt oe 0°?! 4 0021 0°6 (J3S)dL (WOW (1S3)H 286I ZI ZH/@7™™W “ALISNIO ASNGN ZH/e™™W “XLISN3O ASY3N3 "@Cq eunstg 0°21 £°¢ O°vl ve O°v! a4 O°vl at 4 ZH “XONGNOB4 OS°0 0 OO SO OED ZO OO SIO CIO s0°000°0 (TASIdL (WIOWH (LS3)YH 2B 6I CI O°vt 2 o°et £°% ari 1 O°rs 0 (JQS)d1l (WW ZH “XONGNOSYS 0S°0 S°0 OF°0 SEO CKO S"0 (1S3) 3H 2861 21 a0 si°0 O10 S0°000°0 ZH/7™™W “ALISNGO ASYSNI ZH/e™™W “XLISNGO ASY3N3 ZH/TRRH “LLISN3IO ASYIN B132 APPENDIX C: SURVEY DATA Contour diagrams constructed from the bathymetric survey data are pre- sented in this appendix. The profile lines surveyed are identified on each diagram. Contours are in half meters referenced to National Geodetic Vertical Datum. The distance offshore is referenced to the Field Research Facility (FRF) monumentation baseline behind the dune. C1 PROF ILE 58 62 73 8S 13S 1SS 161 169 174 178 183 183 163 ®emmeee Sesser 9 JE ITE Wececa=sacs 0°F- -4.0 4%, = Swwe CF —= eon ey New em emewe a. ®eoen eeeeooe = reo fs Te ey | ? Pe ee / S48 U : 4 enn Of Seommae = CaaS S222 F wee m ene 0 £ SSENe = oe Se ssscscse 0° eae === == ESS ce ena me acne me f-- — Me MOR pw em mh 8m oe, ° r) Seema ean -_ e@eeeeeeeoan Ff 6b meen, . FS aoa? = em owe, ees es © SOCK oe? ne S eae Soo etence g.0 ame roa, Oot! OOOr «008. ~=«08SsCOL SSCS SSCS 0 OO (W) SONULSIO DISTANCE (M) FRF bathymetry, 9 February 1982 (contours in metres) Figure Cl. C2 850 ewemn, ere eS eaeee™ WteeKee tne OJ? ooe guerre won er” ~. e 650 -— o* = td 4S0 OISTANCE (NM) OO Ow emEErecaae e lle SS reer 0 C~ (deat STS tote CO cemaeser= ~~, 0 a wen we ewmcnoseanenee os == e S—N 0 OE ee ee Cott ooof 008 008 004 008 O0S OOF OCF ote oot 0 onl- (W) SONULSIO 18 March 1982 (contours in metres) FRF bathymetry, Figure C2. C3 eeee © &@ teeny Newecesa, a telat Pee Ted FS OS OS OO ORO OOO REE BOE ee, ~ » te O'p~ @, s =e Se 0093 00s OOF (W) SONULSIO —~—eseetoe Cem om os 002 . a 163 wemerman ee ahaha =< (J/* ween w 0 8S DISTANCE (M) FRF bathymetry, 21 April 1982 (contours in metres) Figure C3. cy PROF ILE Pema m em ee OP Beem ee, % % = Se Ore S © ORO BORER wee? TO ORO OOP mBO@eRe, 0°r- 2am SS ry Se aerenwe2nn Seen ome \ y) I~ P82 ae Sen -3.0 ek teint Nesseese= 2. 0 See ese mm enn cue LFF Neem SS SS bY ous (W) SONYLS 850 oo on een oe aria eas Oe os gs am pms bo os om rem = a erste? =3},,[0) sere t te eaeN s eam of = SBEee naermnme., 0°S- g \y QO BS Seee”@=neee een Qrmancnsce rr g s Ree women ee oa, 00} OO O% om oo oole- [0 (M) DISTANCE a co ron) = o (S 3 5 ~- Nn oe a8) B® o & & Ba a) n we 5 ae e+} 6) Oo 0 == te oO Co) © 3 a0 “dl fy C5 oa 2a 0°9- ee PR BER SOOO Mee ce ommne. = ~ © were we HM o SSeS 008 oos OOF (W) SONULSIO === Of :0°O : :0°F = DISTANCE (M) FRF bathymetry, 14 July 1982 (contours in metres) Figure C5. C6 PROF JLE emer en Fms an ony OT la Te ‘ @ ? ? e@a2eceane S55 sN 009 O0S 00+ (W) JONYISIO amor oor -- DEP OP OMSS . DISTANCE (M) FRF bathymetry, 24 August 1982 (contours in metres) Figure C6. Cif 0011 ooo} 00 6 73 85 135 155 161 169 174 003 00S ODF (W) GONYLSTO oO Nw _ folo}ss 181 183 188 189 DISTANCE (M) FRF bathymetry, 27 October 1982 (contours in metres) Figure C7. c8 PROF ILE 009 00S OOF (MW) SONULSIO 00f£ 002 00! DISTANCE (M) 6 December 1982 (contours in metres) FRF bathymetry, Figure C8. C9 ae Pn eT y “gna St a ote - a o ee ee = a ee : ~¥F ee : === se erwin» i 1 ue tr aw . ee ee aia — ee ie ea ao cl PO I OE IOC A Ta Vinee eee — r “ _ oe : > > om ‘4 APPENDIX D: STORM DATA During times when the wave height An exceeded 2 m at the seaward end O of the Field Research Facility (FRF) pier, data were collected hourly. The available data for the 16 storms during the year are presented in this appendix. |p In 10 1a 10 Ir Atmospheric pressure. Reported in millibars, these data are useful for documenting the type of storm, the passage of fronts, and the intensity of the atmospheric pressure system. Wind speed. Local winds are generally responsible for the wave conditions at the FRF. Wind speed is reported in metres per second. Wind direction. Referenced to true (star) north, the wind direction indicates the direction from which the winds are blowing, e.g., winds blowing from west to east are referred to as west winds. Wave direction. Referenced to true north, the wave direction measurements are taken at the seaward end of the FRF pier. The pier axis (considered perpendicular to the beach at the FRF) is oriented 70 deg east of true north; consequently, wave angles greater than 70 deg imply the waves were coming from the south side of the pier. Gage 625, wave height. The wave height, measured in metres, was that obtained from the Baylor staff wave gage located at the seaward end of the FRF pier. Wave period. The peak spectral wave period (in seconds) from gage 625 is reported. Water levels. 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