FIRST ANNUAL REPORT OF THE {jommissioners of State {Jarhs OF THE ; SPATH OF NHW YORK. TRANSMITTED TO THE LEGISLATURE MAY 15, 1878. ALBANY : THE ARGUS COMPANY, PRINTERS. @ °1873. FIRST ANNUAL REPORT OF THE ee h {| ommissioners of State {larks OF THE Sar OF NEW YORK. TRANSMITTED TO THE LEGISLATURE MAY 15, 1878. ALBANY: THE ARGUS COMPANY, PRINTERS. 1873. i , t i rid a ea ie A Ag AE iy uit SLATE OF NEW YORK. PN Sh N. AcT i, May 15, 1873. FIRST ANNUAL REPORT OF THE COMMISSIONERS OF STATE PARKS OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK. Hon. Joun C. Rostnson, Liewtenant- Governor : Sir.—I herewith transmit the annual report of the Commis- | sioners of State Parks of the State of New York, for the year 1872. VERPLANCK COLVIN, Secretary. qn oh ae it aes = net i ees a 44 fi f ea i LAOS ane be x “en cc baal tt: De the fe anenaC ue Hi dabeagnat Berta Te ia woh gat td alan i an i EP Ode DT, To the Honorable the Legislature of the State of New York: The Commissioners of State Parks of the State of New York, having been directed “to inquire into the expediency of providing for vesting in the State the title to the timbered regions lying within the counties of Lewis, Essex, Clinton, Franklin, St. Lawrence, Herki- mer and Hamilton, and converting the same into a public park,’’ respectfully present the following REPORT. After a careful consideration of the projected forest park, with its practical bearing upon the interests of the people of the whole State, we are of opinion that the protection of a great portion of that forest from wanton destruction is absolutely and immediately required. We do not favor the creation of an expensive and exclusive park for mere purposes of recreation, but condemning such suggestions, recommend the simple preservation of the timber as a measure of political economy. The conclusion that the permanent preservation of a large por- tion of this forest is necessary, is based upon numerous considera- tions intimately connected with the great business interests of the State. Before proceeding to the discussion of the reasons which have brought us to this conclusion, a statement of facts in regard to the region is desirable. The ancient Cough-sa-gra-ge—the beaver hunting country of the Indian Six Nations—now known as the Adirondack wilderness, is essentially a great and almost primeval forest, covering the moun- tainous and semi-mountainous elevated region of Northern New 6 First ANNUAL IREPORT OF THE York. The northern portion of the county of Hamilton is the approximate center of the wilderness, while the western portion of Essex county contains the most elevated lands and the highest moun- tains of the State. From Lake Champlain on the east, the Mohawk river on the south, the Black river on the west, and the St. Law- rence on the north, the land slopes upward towards the wilderness, whose marked peculiarity is the multitude of its lakes, of greater or less degree, and the vein-like ramification of its crystal brooks and rivers. The surfaces of the principal lakes throughout this upland are generally elevated from fifteen to sixteen hundred feet above the sea, whénce some writers have been erroneously led to term the whole region a plateau or table land; viewed from some lofty peak it is seen as a silent expanse of mountains, shrouded in unbroken woods, vast and quiet, and stretching to the apparent limits of the sky. Throughout this forest, game is still abundant ; the deer, bear and panther, with smaller animals, find shelter and support, and their presence gives to the magnificent scenery a strange, wild and romantic element, which has contributed to make its more accessible portions a choice summer pleasure ground for those of our people who. travel,.and who admire the natural splendors of their, native land. A few settlements only have as yet been formed in this wild terri- tory, although during the two hundred years past, numerous attempts have been made to.recover and cultivate it, all of which have signally failed and recoiled with disaster upon, the projectors. The cause of the failure of these enterprises is to be attributed. to, the. deplorable ignorance that has existed in regard to the climate, soil and general capabilities of the region, which rendered. unwarrantable the’expenditures made. Amid ie mountains, granitic rocks, sparcely coyered with vegetable mould, soon, become bare and aleadet arid when deprived of the dense growth of trees and the net-work of roots and fibres which hold the soil together. Ages will have passed, before the slow growth and death of minor plants upon the naked, rocks will again afford sufficient soil to enable the second growth of timber to attain the size and value of that destroyed. It must, not, however, be supposed that all this region is a mass of rock. There are extensive tracts of gravelly and sandy soil, inter- CoMMISSIONERS oF STATE PARKS. 7 vales, and, near some of the lakes and rivers, alluvial lands, which are sometimes covered with a dense growth of wild grasses, often cut and cured by the lumbermen for the use of their oxen and horses in winter. Nevertheless, owing to the elevation and the coldness of the climate, there is no profitable farming carried on anywhere upon this upland; for, seldom is there a year in which the temperature does not fall so low as to prevent the ripening of corn, while frost is not unfrequent even in summer. The potato, that hardy vegetable which may be grown even far toward the Arctic zone, in Labrador and British America, is here produced of fine quality, in some loca- tions. Oats, also, grow thriftily, especially upon new lands or soils that contain even a small percentage of lime, which mineral—so important to the agriculturist—is, unfortunately, not abundant. In fact, the agricultural products are absolutely nothing when compared with the products of the forests; which are indeed the only surface wealth of the region; and but for the need which the lumbermen and the summer tourist have for even the scanty amount of hay, oats and potatoes produced, and provisions brought in and kept for sale at these slender settlements, those settlements would soon cease to exist. As it is, many of the inhabitants are forced to eke out their subsistence by hunting and trapping; and, latterly, since the value of the region as a summer resort has begun to be understood by our citizens and the citizens of other States, the class of guides—hardy and intelligent men —has inereased, and thousands of dollars, which have hitherto been expended in travel in foreign lands, remain in or are brought into our State. The mineral wealth of the region is not inferior to that of its forests. It is practically limited to iron; which exists in remarkable purity and enormous quantities; but careful geological exploration has proved that the available deposits of ore are confined to the northern portion of this region, and that the ore-beds generally exist in the settled, cleared or accessible portions of the country. Great activity in iron manufacture is now exhibited near Lake Champlain, at Port Henry, Mineville, Elizabethtown, Black Brook and Danne- mora. The beds which here supply the furnaces are of magnetic or octohedral ore. Passing westward, along the northern boundary of the region, the character of the rock changes, and the specular, hematite ores of iron are encountered, and the ore-beds, as at the 8 First ANNUAL REPORT OF THE Iron mountain in the town of Oakham, St. Lawrence county, are often unworked, and far in the depths of the woods. In addition to these masses of iron, there are beds of serpentine (so-called verde antique marble) steatite, or soapstone, and deposits of graphite. There are also superior grades of granite, or more properly gneiss, valuable for building purposes. Besides these pro- ducts there are no mines or minerals of great commercial importance. In the early days of iron manufacture in this region, all the iron was made with the aid of wood charcoal. When a pure ore was used, free from sulphurets and phosphides, the “ charcoal iron ” pro- duced was unsurpassed in quality, and commanded a high price. The result was that large sections in Essex county were entirely stripped of forest in order to supply the requisite charcoal. The mountains thus debosqued are to-day almost treeless, showing deso- late flanks of naked rock; and some of the streams which once were trout brooks are now torrent beds, through which the water of each storm on the smooth sides of the mountains rushes swiftly off to leave them almost dry, instead of slowly percolating through a sponge of moss and tree roots, as a slow-running, cold and constant spring. To the introduction of coal from Pennsylvania by railroad may be partially attributed the present activity in the mining of iron near Port Henry, as in that immediate neighborhood the supply of wood was long since exhausted. It is not alone to coal, however, that this activity is owing; it is more directly attributable to the improved means of transportation. Instead of dragging the fuel far from the coal fields, up steep grades to the mines, and then dragging the iron produced out again to market, a great portion of the ore is now transported directly to the cities, to the furnaces, to points where labor is cheap, and where repairs to machinery can be readily made. Instead of being overloaded with coal, the empty cars go easily up hill to the mines, to roll speedily down again laden with the heavy ore. From this it becomes evident that, for the development of the iron mines of the region, railroads only are needed. Without railroads, neither the ores nor the products of the ore-beds of the interior can be brought to market. Withrailroads, and the easy access they afford COMMISSIONERS OF STATE PARKS. g to the coal fields, wood, which must be cut and drawn by team over a rugged country, and would at length give out, becomes a fuel far too expensive to compete with coal. The advancement of iron manufacture, therefore, is simply a mat- ter of railroads; and the development of the mineral wealth of the region does not in any way conflict with the projected preservation of the forest. Vast portions of the wilderness are owned and controlled by the lumber interest, which, with that of the tanneries, is lkely to, be most immediately and radically affected by the creation of a State forest park or timber preserve. ‘These lands are generally purchased, held, and valued solely for the timber growing on them. As soon as the pine, spruce and hemlock trees have been taken off, the lands are often abandoned and revert to the State for unpaid taxes. The com- mon and wasteful method among lumbermen, therefore, is to cut all the available timber from a given section at once. This enables them to escape further taxes on that piece by abandoning and throwing the same back upon the State. The small trees, even under ten inches in diameter, are cut, and thus the natural process of replace- ment by a second growth of the valuable varieties of timber, becomes very slow, if not impossible. The mass of brushwood, the boughs and tops lopped from the trees in such quantities, dry and wither, and become in summer beds cf tinder. The first spark from a hunter’s fire kindles them, and now—spreading rapidly through the forest—commences one of those terrible conflagrations which have covered whole townships with a sea of flame, and, invading the settlements, have destroyed mills, dwellings and human lives. These fires reveal the slenderness— of the soil, which—though sometimes several feet in depth—is often totally consumed, even down amid the crevices of the great boulders, which after the fire stand out red and burnt, like the uncovered bones of the world. The soil, apparently so rich and strong, is here without base, substance or solidity ; being only the rich peat-like earth, derived from the semi-decay of the fallen timber and sphag- nous (peat) mosses. In agriculture such a soil is fairly eaten up by the plants cultivated in it, and the boulders gradually appear above the surface, as when the soil is burnt. Great tracts in Franklin 10 First ANNUAL RepoRT OF THE county have been swept by these fires, and the people of that section best know what a terrible infliction they are. It is interesting to notice that some of the people assert that they have detected a remarkable diminution in the usual flow of water in the streams of the burnt regions, and that sudden floods are more frequent now than heretofore. The tanneries, which are scattered along the margins of the wil- derness, require great supplies of bark, and, therefore, aid in the rapid destruction of the forest; though the hemlock is almost the only tree which is cut. So thorough in some sections has the work been made, that it is frightful to see the numberless crossed trunks of trees, lying one upon another, stripped of their bark and white as skeletons, left there to decay. From an early day there have been numerous projects for building railroads through this region, most of which have been abandoned, and none of which have been completed. At different times charters have been granted for such railroads, and, to some, special immunities and privileges have been given. Among these that now passing under the name of the “ Adiron- dack Companies Railroad” is prominent. This company appears to have succeeded to the rights, privileges and real estate of the old Saratoga and Sackett’s Harbor railroad, organized April 10th, 1848 (afterwards known as the Lake Ontario and Hudson railroad, organ- ized April 6th, 1857), which became insolvent and passed into the hands of a receiver. Finally the present railroad, by certain amend- atory articles of association, under the general railroad act, and by other means, has come to assume the character of a great landed ‘corporation. A large portion of the land which they possess was originally obtained trom the State at the price of five cents an acre; more than 250,000 acres being obtained by the Saratoga and Sackett’s Harbor railroad in this way. The manner of their acqui- sition will, perhaps, be better understood by an examination of the following transcript from the report of the State Engineer and Sur- veyor (Assembly Document No. 60, Jan. 15th, 1857, page 202): ‘“‘Since the spirit of land speculation has subsided, to dispose of our public lands by wholesale was not to be expected, until by act COMMISSIONERS OF STATE PARKS. ki chapter 207, Laws of 1848, and subsequent’ acts chapter 72 of 1851 and chapter 122, Laws of 1855, the Commissioners of the Land Office are authorized and required to sell and convey to the Sackett’s Harbor and Saratoga Railroad Company 250,000 acres, belonging to the State in the counties of Hamilton and Herkimer, at the rate of five cents an acre, on the company complying with the conditions named in said acts. This claim has been satisfied in full, by lands granted in August, September and October, 1855, viz. : pace Per acre, Amount. Hamilton and Essex counties...... 205,202 5 cents $10,260 11 And on July 23, 1856: Hammon cOUMtYe Moeoe sc. ls ca he 20,000 5 cents 1,000 00 Hamilton and Warren counties .... 6,984 30 cents 25095 20 Wratien:. COUMEYA)....2.5 <.:25< oes cis 15,974 30 cents 4,792 20 Warren and Essex counties........ 7,042 30 cents 2,112 60 FG STS a ete OEE? 955,202 $20,260 11 . aK “will anes a the following extracts from the minutes of the Land Office, on the 9th. July, 1856, the Sackett’s Harbor and Saratoga Meee Company by their ‘aa Mr. Waddell, made the following proposition :. ¢ T, 0. the Commissioners of the Land; Office: ‘“¢ GENTLEMEN.——I_ ‘propose, ‘for the Sackett’s Harbor and Saratoga railroad, to take lands now owned by the State in Hamilton and Herkimer counties, in accordance with our chartered rights, 20,000 acres; the road having already received 205,000 acres, and claiming 25,000 acres adversely claimed by Dart, Kirby, Loomis and others ; also propose to purchase 30,000 acres of lands belonging to the State, lying in other counties, and to pay for the same thirty cents per acre, under a stipulation from the road, to be filed, that in case our suit for the disputed lands is decided against the road, the number of acres now purchased shall go toward the amount due from the State, in which case the excess over five cents per acre to be refunded.’ “ Therefore, “ Resolved, That the proposition herewith submitted by the Sack- ett’s Harbor and Saratoga Railroad Company be accepted, and that patents be issued, upon the payment of five cents per acre into the 12 First ANNUAL REPORT OF THE State treasury, for 20,000 acres of land lying in Hamilton and Her- kimer counties, and not claimed adversely by other parties; and that the proposition to purchase from the State 30,000 acres lying in Warren and Essex counties, additional, to pay therefor the sum of thirty cents per acre, be accepted, and that patents therefor issue upon the payment of thirty cents per acre, and the filing of a stipu- lation, on the part of said company, that in case the suit for lands on the part of the company, and defended by the State, shall be decided against said company, the amount of their said purchase at thirty cents per acre shall go toward the amonnt found due from the State, acre for acre in which case the excess over five cents per acre shall be refunded said company.” The suit of the railroad company was decided against them, and they obtained these last—thirty-cent—lands in Warren and Essex counties also at five cents an acre. These transactions show that the wild lands of this region are, intrinsically, of very little value; for a single acre of farming land, valued at the moderate price of $100, is equal to 2,000 acres at five cents an acre. The working of the iron ores would in no way inter- fere with the preservation of the forest, for the mining companies would only require those lands in which the iron lies, and the right of way for their railroads. The area of the wilderness may be estimated approximately at one million seven hundred and thirty thousand (1,780,000) acres, or about two thousand seven hundred and three (2,703) square miles. These wild lands are distributed among the several counties in about the following proportion : County. Acres, MPV seatanast eye ets bee ee fed ag Sat ral a in 750,000 leas ite eins: } cpstec, peers oe ok A ODE Lollsy a toys td a ee eR a 350,000 NEO WAGU Rar. oes SNS Sea Sey Mae Ce ooicn, Sie Shee een 60,000 Sil Bawrences!/ 10 ae a Oe (A POMP AEE LORE | SOE 40,000 Pranialin is atiosiewa sey cole De a ahh ae 300,000 HESS eae ic aN MEN 8 ee sath Se ats Bo 200,000 WEE ie: Rene Pere a 9 ges UT cnn ec mag IO Ui rin ea AE 30,000 4 Wo | Nghe EGR ty I LO a ies he Reis os SMA, 1,730,000 The county of Clinton, though containing much wild land, lies in a measure separated from the main portion of this great forest, and has not, therefore, been included in these estimates. COMMISSIONERS OF STATE PARKS. is About eight hundred and thirty-four thousand four hundred and eighty (834,480) acres, or one thousand three hundred and three (1,303) square miles, are upon the Hndson river side of the mountain divide which separates the head waters of that river from the streams flowing to the St. Lawrence. This would be the approximate area of the region which would be required for the purposes of the forest park, in case it should be determined that the preservation of the forests covering and protecting the sources of the Hudson is al that is necessary for that purpose. The following is a statement of all the lands now owned by the State and remaining unsold: County General Fund. School Fund. Acres, Acres. Winton SPR? Bia ut ei al se lat sh oa) 8,315 39027 Essex AR ORCL ONG LA NRCROLS DCT SEG COTE ORTEEOS OL Dee co. Seely te 25824 9,954 | STRAIT SUIT 9 anne co 2 OR On gk ate HY iL 180 Hamilton Be RUD seus Lops ¥e\