COLLECTION OF WILLIAM SCHAUS © PRESENTED TO THE NATIONAL MUSEUM MCMV nd ig ate |; Se hal - in y ¥ “ ' ' y oe « 7 ‘ ~ a ra ? ~ : * é ' , * “ 1 . 4 « . ’ *, ™ “~~. . ¢ ’ , "Rta, © : - a id A , ¢ le «4 oat = « , . 4 " a =F 4 ined a . on A f m. - . le * ee | ape ; ‘ 4 . ’ i -. . ~ + 4 x * ps , La Py el), ay ae CH oF ANNUAL REPORT FT! Cs 1378 , , Eu Ty. UPON EXPLORATIONS AND SURVEYS IN THE DEPARTMENT OF THE MISSOURI,, r BY E. H. RUFFNER, FIRST LIEUTENANT OF ENGINEERS, U. S. A. 3 BEING APPENDIX SS OF THE ANNUAL REPORT OF THE CHIEF OF ENGINEERS FOR 1878. ae Aa et WASHINGTON: GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE . 1878. ’ a “ ht t ¢ i 6 ‘ ' 2 gare S j “| i vox Ld a> a te, te oe Be * £ \ ee Beuh VD TAY) Ht if jaa [EXTRACT FROM THE ANNUAL REPORT OF THE CHIEF OF ENGINEERS TO THE SECRETARY OF WAR.] OFFICE OF THE CHIEF OF ENGINEERS, Washington, D. C., October 19, 1878. * * * * * * * RECONNATSSANCES AND EXPLORATIONS. The engineer officers on the staffs of the generals commanding the military divisions and departments have been engaged during the year in surveys in the field, and in collecting and plotting geographical and other information obtained from the note-books, sketches, and maps made by the officers and soldiers in the scouts and campaigns in the West. The estimate of $50,000 made by this department for the sur veys by these officers failed at the last session of Congress, thus leav- ing unprovided for the work which was desired to be accomplished in the seven military departments embracing the country west of the Mis- sissippi River, in each one of which there is an engineer or acting engi- neer officer. This work includes surveys in the field by the department engineers, the purchase and repair of instruments, and the expenses at- - tending the draughting and printing of maps required for distribution to the Army. The maps of the country covered by the recent campaigns against hostile Indians have proved in the highest degree useful to the officers engaged, and it is especially desirable that the great unexplored areas in the hostile country, and areas which in future campaigns are liable to be traversed by the troops, or by the enemy, should be surveyed and plotted and added to these campaign maps. The enlistment of topo- graphical assistants to the engineer officers attached to the headquarters of each of the Western military geographical divisions and departments, which was authorized by the Secretary of War in July, 1877, will very much facilitate the surveys of those officers, and it is hoped, if the small appropriation asked for these surveys is granted by Congress, that much more can be accomplished than has been heretofore by the same amount of expenditure. An estimate for the amount required to be appropriated for this pur- pose has been included in the estimate of this department. * * * ¥ * * * Lieut. E. H. Ruffner, on the staff of the general commanding the De- partment of the Missouri, reports that but little progress has been made during the past year in the preparation of maps, or in the examination and survey of new country. Wantof means and small number of troops in the department available for marches or scouts are assigned as the reasons. The total mileage of journals of scouts and marches is given at 7,214, and an additional 2,030 miles for the reconnaissance in South- west Colorado conducted by Lieut. C. A. H. McCauley, Third Artillery, assistant to Lieutenant Ruffner. This report is submitted by Lieu- tenant McCauley, and is considered as very valuable and of interest to all connected with that region of country. IV REPORT OF THE CHIEF OF ENGINEERS. An edition of map No. 2, Department of the Missouri, revised and cor- rected to date, was issued last fall. Lieutenant Ruffner submitted a second report on lines of communication between Colorado and New Mexico, which was printed as Ex. Doc. No. 66, House of Representa- tives, Forty-fifth Congress, second session. The report covers 38 pages of print, and is accompanied by three maps. Lieutenant Ruffner has employed his spare time during the year in preparing a compilation or descriptive index of the reports of the Corps of Engineers for the ten years 1866-1876, entitled “A Record of Ten Years of Engineering by the Corps of Engineers, U. 8. A.” The manu- seript is now completed. (See Appendix 88.) * * * * * * * ! ERRATA. [Appendix S S, Annual Report of the Chief of Engineers, 1878.] Page 1750, line 4 from bottom, for ‘‘ mess” read ‘‘ mesa.” Page 1754, line 24, omit ‘ ‘south.” Page 1754, line 36, for ‘‘ peak” read ‘ summit.” Page 1755, line 17, for ‘‘ Pundio Pass,” read ‘‘ Puncho Pass.” Page 1755, line 42, for ‘‘ hillrocks” read “hillock.” Page 1756, line 23 from bottom, for ‘‘rivers” read ‘‘ views.” Page 1760, line 40, for ‘‘ summit ” read “Summit.” Page 1763, line 13, for ‘“‘stage” read “ stages.” Page 1766, line 8, for “flourishing ” yead “ flourishes.” Page 1766, line 14 from bottom, for ‘and noticed” read “and were noticed.” Page 1768, line 17, for “declaring” read ‘‘ declared.” Page 1768, line 31, for “it” read “its.” Page 17 68, line 11 from bottom, for ‘‘ burned” read “ buried.” Page 1769, line 20, for ‘ ‘Southern” read “Eastern.” Page 1770, line 30 from bottom, for ‘‘ are merged” read ‘‘is merged.” Page 1771, line 20 from bottom, for ‘‘ then” read ‘‘ there.” Page 1772, strike out quotation marks before and after ‘‘fine.” Page 1774, line 12, for ‘‘ indicating action” read “indicating watery action.” Page 1775, line 41, for “‘ east” read ‘‘ west.” Page 1775, line 46, after ‘‘ valley,” insert ‘‘ there results.” Page 1776, line 9, for ‘‘locatted ” read ‘‘ located.” Page 1778, line 22 from bottom, for ‘‘ value of” read ‘‘ value for.” Page 1778, line 14 from bottom, for ‘‘ along on a” read ‘‘ along a.” Page 1779, line 4, insert ‘‘and” before ‘‘ received.” Page 1779, line 5 from bottom, for ‘‘Sierra Carriza” read ‘‘ Sierra Carrizo.” Page 1780, line 38, for ‘‘is” read ‘ in.” Page 1780, line 41, for ‘‘rise” read “rises.” Page 1780, line 2 from bottom, for “provided” read ‘‘ obtained.” Page 1781, lines 11 and 12, for § ‘Pay-Utes” read ‘‘ Pah-Utes.” Page 1781, line 27, for ‘ from Mancos” 1ead “ from the Mancos.” Pave 1782, line 34, for “mountainous” read “monotonous.” Page 1782, line 37, for ‘‘is a” read ‘‘is all a.” Page 1783, line 10, omit comma after ‘‘ beyond.” Page 1783, line 29, omit quotation marks before and after “‘ Lake City.” Page 1783, lines 15 and 16 from bottom, omit quotation marks before and after “Wagon Wheel Gap.” Page 1783, line 6 from bottom, for ‘‘ Ionea” read ‘‘ Loma.” Page 1785, line 23, for ‘‘90°” read ‘‘9°.” Page 1785, last line, for ‘‘Ternichi” read ‘‘ Tomichi.” Page 1787, line 5, for “at Mexican” read ‘at the Mexican.” Page 1787, line 11 from bottom, for ‘‘Chavez’s” read ‘‘ Valdez’.” Page 1787, line 9 from bottom, for “rivers” read “ wagons.” Page 1788, line 1, for ‘‘ Caledonia” read ‘‘Celedonia.” — Page 1788, line 31, for ‘‘ Chavez” read ‘‘ Valdez.” a Page 1? 1791, line 13 from bottom, insert comma after ‘ below,” and omit comma after valle Page 1796, line 7, for “‘ Pogosa” read ‘ Pagosa.” Page 1797, line 25 from bottom, for ‘ Animas” read “ Animas Forks.” Page 1797, line 9 from bottom, for toll-road” read ‘ county-road.” Page 1797, line 5 from bottom, for ‘‘ lake” read ‘‘ Lake.” Page 1798, line 13, for “forms” read “ftom.” Page 1798, line 33, for 100” read ‘‘ 110.” Page 1800, line 15 from bottom, for ‘‘100” read ‘‘90.” Bare 1800, last line, for “therefore” read “therefor.” Page 1802, line 14 from bottom, for ‘‘ summit” read ‘ Summit.” Page 1803, line 29 from bottom, for ‘‘covers” read ‘‘comes.” Page 1805, line 13 from bottom, for “ Front Lake” read “‘Trout Lake.” Page 1806, line 33, for “ Abiquin ” read ‘‘ Abiquiu.” Page 1806, line 42/ for ‘‘though to” read ‘‘ though known to.” Page 1807, line 16, for ‘ Zan Miguel” read ‘‘ San Miguel. is Page 1811, line 8 from bottom, for ‘‘100” read ‘‘ 110,” 2 Page 1812, line 15, for ‘‘ with” read ‘ without. f Page 1816, line 28, for ‘‘ highest mine” read ‘‘ highest gold mine.” Page 1816, line 4 of table, for “The Adams Miller” read “The Adams.” Page 1819, last line, tor ‘ ’ Atrastro” read “ Arastro.” Page 1823, line 26 from bottom, for ‘‘ quinches” read ‘‘9 inches.” Page 1825, line’#, for:** lixiviature” read “lixiviation.” Page 1825, line 20, for ‘‘ Hillsdale” read ‘‘ Hinsdale. y Page 1825, line a7, for ‘‘ nearly” read ‘near by.” Page 1825, lines 32 and 33, for “diocrasite” read ‘ discrasite.” Page 1825, line 33, for “py ragyrite” read “ pyrargyriie.” Page 1825, line 7 from bottom, for ‘‘ Read” read as Red.” Page 1826, line 15, for ‘* 120” read ‘130.” Page 1826, line 32, for ‘‘Out Pat” read ‘‘ Our Pat.” Page 1828, line 22 from bottom, for ‘‘ Ute” read ‘ Ule.” Page 1832, line 13, for ‘‘Galma” read ‘‘ Galena.” Page 1833, line 31. from bottom, for ‘‘Ranunculus nivalis L.,” read ‘ Ranunculus pygmeeus.” Page 1833, line 29 from bottom, for ‘‘cymbalaria” read ‘‘ Cymbalaria.” Page 1834, line 2, for ‘‘ Aralis” read ‘‘ Arabis.” Page 1834, line 3, for “‘Cardanime” read ‘“ Cardamine.” Page 1834, line 4 from bottom, for ‘‘Nigundo” read ‘‘ Negundo.” Page 1835, line 26, for ‘‘ Nutkanas” read “ Nutkanus.” Page 1835, line Q7, for ‘“‘rarely” read ‘‘rare.” ; Page 1835, line 37, after ‘‘ Potentilla Pennsylvanica, L., var.” insert ‘‘Strigosa, Pursh.” Page 1835, line 4 from bottom, for ‘‘aaueum” read ‘ aureum.” Page 1835, line 2 from bottom, for “L.” read ‘‘ DC.” Page 1836, line 22, for ‘‘scopularum” read ‘‘ scopulorum.” Page 1836, line 6 from | bottom, after ‘‘ Solidago viryo-aurea, L., var.” ins2rt ‘‘ Mul- tiradiata, Torr. & Gray. Page 1838, lime 17, for ‘* Brug.” read ‘ Bong.” Page 1838, line 25, tors ‘ erontandica ” read “ Groenlandica.” Page 1838, line 37, after © Stachys palustris, L., var. (240)” insert “cordata, Gray.” Page 1839, line 17, ‘‘ Polygonum viviparum” should be printed in Roman type. Page 1839, line 19, ‘* Polygonum Bistorta” should be printed in Roman type. Page 1839, line 27, for ‘‘ Comandra pallida” read ‘*Comandra pallida DC.” Page 1839, line 7 from botton, for ‘‘ Veratrum” read ‘ Veratrum.” Page 1840, line 9, for ‘‘ Burg.” read ‘‘ Bong.” Page 1840, line 32, for ‘‘rizopyrum” read ‘‘ Brizopyrum.” P Page 1840, line 20 from bottom, for ‘‘canicum,” read ‘‘ caninum.” , : Page 1840, line 17 from bottom, for ‘‘ strigosun” read ‘‘strigosum.” APPENDIX SS. ANNUAL REPORT OF LIEUTENANT EB. H. RUFFNER, CORPS OF ENGINEERS, FOR THE FISCAL YEAR ENDING JUNE 30, 1878. EXPLORATIONS AND SURVEYS IN THE DEPARTMENT OF THE MISSOURI. a ERTERS DEPARTMENT OF THE MISSOURI, OFFICE OF THE CHIEF ENGINEER, Fort Leavenworth, Kans., July 22, 1878. Str: In rendering you my annual report for the fiscal year ending June 30, 1878, I regret to say that the operations of the office have been very meager. There being but a small sum at my disposal, no oppor- tunity has arisen to conduct surveys, and beyond the routine calls upon the draughtsmen no maps have been prepared. An edition of sheet No. 2, Department of the Missouri, revised and corrected to date, was engraved and issued last fall. The total mileage of journals of marches and scouts recorded in this office for the calendar year 1877 was 7,214; and the mileage of recon- naissance in the southwest of Colorado, conducted by Lieut. C. A. H. McCauley, my assistant, was 2,030 miles. The report of Lieutenant McCauley, herewith submitted, illustrates what may be done by the indefatigable energy and untiring ‘industry of one man. The results of his observations are given in a shape which presents the present condition of that section of country in a manner which will be of interest to all connected with it. Great credit should be given to Lieutenant McCauley for his systematic collection of notes and carefully prepared report, and it is suggested that a large edition of it be prepared separately for distribution to the many who are seeking information of this section. A second report on lines of communication between Colorado and New Mexico, in which much of Lieutenant McCauley’s notes were used, was submitted to the department commander on January 11, 1878, and was printed March 9, 1878, as Ex. Doc. No. 66, House of Representa- tives, Forty-fifth Congress, second session. This report covers 38 pages of print and is accompanied by three maps. In accordance with its recommendations an appropriation was made by Congress of $5,000, to commence the roads required. This amount will not complete what was desired, as the estimates called for $24,000. I have employed my spare time during the year in the compilation of a work which has been thought necessary, and of which the title-page and table of contents are herewith submitted. The manuscript of this work is now in the hands of the Chief of Engineers. All of which is respectfully submitted. EK. H. RUFFNER, First Ineutenant of Engineers. The CHIEF OF ENGINEERS, U.S. A. 1750 REPORT OF THE CHIEF OF ENGINEERS. REPORT ON THE SAN JUAN RECONNAISSANCE OF 1877, BY LIEUTEN- ANT C. A. H. WCAULEY, THIRD ARTILLERY, IN CHARGE. ) LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL. HEADQUARTERS DEPARTMENT OF THE MISSOURI, OFFICE OF THE CHIEF ENGINEER, Fort Leavenworth, Kans., July 15, 1878. Sir: I have the honor to transmit herewith my report of the San Juan reconnaissance of 1877, made pursuant to Special Orders No. 106, Headquarters, Department of the Missouri, June 6, 1877, and instructions in detail that were furnished me. The country examined consisted of that part of Southwest Colorado which is known as the San Juan Region and a portion of New Mexico. Leaving Fort Leavenworth June 10, 1877, for Fort Garland, Colo., the rendezvous of the party, an escort was ob- tained there consisting of First Lieut. G. Valois and 22 men of the Ninth Cavalry, and the field taken June 20; being absent from Fort Leavenworth five months, of which time 123 days were in the field, 96 different camps were occupied, not including those of a supply nature. The total distance traveled after leaving Fort Garland was 2,030 miles; this was wholly in the field, mainly with pack-trains, and is confined to that made in person, not including the mileage made by detached wagon and pack trains, or by any members - of my party unaccompanied by myself. Of the total, 1,850 miles were meander work, careful topographical notes, &c., being taken. In addition to the regular work of the reconnaissance and the special orders in de- tail regarding the selection of a site for a new military post in the San Juan region, the relations between the Indians and white settlers, the intertribal relations among the Indians themselves (the three southern tribes of Utes being dissaffected), and matters upon which reports not intended for publication have been rendered to the department commander, a representation of the flora, the avifauna, &c., was essayed, in accordance with my instructions that ‘‘natural history collections made would be of interest,” with the following results: In botany, a collection of 1,300 specimens, the classification of which was made by Prof. Asa Gray, and will be found in Chapter VI, relating thereto. The notes of Mr. T. S. Brandegee, civil engineer, of Canyon City, Colo., the only botanist personally acquainted with the San Juan country, were contributed gratis, and will be found in the same chapter. In zoology, between one and two thousand of the Articulata, especial attention being paid to the Lepidoptera, Coleoptera, Neuroptera, and the Acridide of the Orthoptera. Classification and report upon the Orthoptera was made by Prof. Cyrus Thomas; upon the Lepidoptera, &c., by Prof. Herman Strecker, the subjects treated being con- tained in Chapter VII,in Entomology. Being now under orders to proceed to the field for duty with the commission appointed by the President to treat with the Ute Indians, and to make further ‘explorations in the San Juan country and portions of Colorado beyond,” the reports of Professor Strecker, which are not yet completed, will be for- warded by him to the Chief of Engineers direct about the 15th proximo. A general collection of the Vertebrata (skins), enibracing mammals, birds, and fishes, was also made. The classification and report in preparation by the writer has not been concluded, and is retained for future use. A general collection of mineralogy, consisting of about 800 specimens, largely gold | and silver ore from the various mining districts, to accompany statistical and de- scriptive memoranda, all of which will be found in Chapter V; a number of fossils were also collected? no examination or report on which has as yet been made. A large quantity of fragmentary pottery, &c., of the Aztec (so called) or prehistorice dwellers in mess houses previously known, and also found on the Rio Piedra, the Upper and Lower Rio de las Animas, and, in addition, upon the dry and desert region south of the Rio Dolores, sketches of habitations, masonry, &¢c., accompanying. Photographs of a cranium, sent to the Army Medical Museum, were furnished through the kindness APPENDIX SS. 1751 of Asst. Surg. George A. Otis, curator. The notes taken are not in shape for publica- tion, and are retained for future use. Specimens from mineral and thermal springs were shipped to Washington for analy- sis promised by a government chemist; owing to a great press of business, as we were informed, the waters were overlooked, and no report thereon can consequently be fur- nished. In accordance with instructions, outline and brush sketches in pencil and water- color were taken at various points, a few of which are transmitted. An effort has been made to render the report as interesting as possible, the great drawback being that no money was available for assistance or other purposes during the reconnaissance and pending the preparation of the report; in consequence thereof, both labor and time, which they could illy afford to spare, had to be asked of scientific men in the specialties hereafter treated. I desire to tender my thanks to all who have furnished me information and aid at various points when in the field and since, and especially to Lieutenant Valois, who performed the not wholly pleasant duties of quartermaster of the expedition, with the labor incident thereto, in addition to escorting an officer whom he ‘‘ranked”; to Major Shorkley, commanding officer; and Captain Bean, quartermaster at Fort Garland, the base of supplies; and to Dr. P. G. Skillern, of the University of Pennsylvania, whose medical attendance on the expedition for over three mouths was without cost to the government. I am, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant, C. A. H. McCauLey, Second Lieutenant Third Artillery, Acting Engineer Officer, In charge San Juan Reconnaissance. Lieut. EK. H. RUFFNER, United States Engineers, Chief Engineer Department of the Missouri, Fort Leavenworth, Kans. 1752 REPORT OF THE CHIEF OF ENGINEERS. . CONTENTS. CHAPTER I.—THE COUNTRY AND ITS NATURE: J. Its name, area, and early settlement. II. Its general character. Ill. Trends of slopes. IV. Seasons. V. Climate. CHAPTER IJ.—AGRICULTURAL AND PASTORAL PURSUITS. CHAPTER III.—LINES OF COMMUNICATION: - I. Railroads. II. Wagon-roads. TLE “Praals, CHAPTER IV.—POPULATION. CHAPTER V.—MINES AND MINERAL WEALTH. CHAPTER VI.—BOTANY: I. Classification of collection by Prof. Asa Gray. II. Notes on the botany of the San Juan by Mr. T. 8. Brandegee, C. E. CHAPTER VII.—ENTOMOLOGY: I. Classification and reports on Orthoptera by Prof. Cyrus Thomas. II. Classification and reports on Lepidoptera by Prof. Herman Strecker. APPENDIX SS. 4753 THE SAN JUAN REGION. CHAPTER I.—THE COUNTRY AND ITS NATURE. SEcTION I.—ITS NAME, AREA, AND EARLY SETTLEMENT. The noted region known as the San Juan country, bidding fair to become in time one of the richest silver-producing sections in the world, is that portion of Colorado lying in the southwestern part of the State, to which of late emigration has rapidly increased, and the attention of capital been attracted by its fine agricultural valleys and the great mineral wealth of its mountains, so that in remote localities several towns and numerous settlements have spring into existence, while much of the coun- try has been occupied with a view to farming and pastoral pursuits. The appellation of San Juan is derived from the river of the same name, into which pour all the streams and waters of the lower country. Long before the advent of the white man upon the continent its banks teemed with an unknown population, of whose habits and mode of life history speaks not and tra- dition is silent, with naught to aid the intelligent investigator save fragmentary pot- tery and the ruins of their dwellings. After long lapses of time their former lands are being occupied by the progressive Anglo-Saxon in his inexorable movement westward. Within the last quarter of a century the country had been penetrated in part by explorers, and reports of the wonderful wealth in its mountains had attracted thither, at the risk of death from hostile red men, numbers of prospectors. A tide of immi- gration set in, and nearly two decades have passed since the same kind of adventur- ous spirits as at present may be found there were flocking to the country. Disap- pointments, continual attacks of hostile Indians, and other causes combined to stay the tide, and with its reflux the lands were left to the tribes that possessed them by virtue of original habitation. An immense wilderness, unoccupied by whites, the country remained comparatively unnoticed or forgotten until 1870, when it was again penetrated by a small party of prospectors, with the resulting discovery, near the present town of Silverton, of the ‘Little Giant,” a gold lode famous for the value of its ore and notorious in subse- quent litigation. Their wonderful discovery, bruited abroad, was the cause of another influx, solely of hardy prospectors, resulting in the establishment of a permanent population. In the treaty of March 2, 1868, setting aside for the Utes all (save a fragment) of Colorado west of the 107th meridian, the San Juan land had become a definite portion of the Indian reserve. Despite treaty obligations, which solemnly declared that their land should not be penetrated for any purpose whatever, small incursions of pros- _ pectors into the Indian reserve occurred at intervals, but without success. Wherever . appearing and locating, they were met by the Indians, whose numbers and hostility were too powerful to be overcome by the settlers within their country. The discovery of the Little Giant and its wonderful wealth, spreading like wildfire, was followed by so large an immigration, backed by political influence, that the in- truders could not be expelled. It was the old, old story of the government preserving an Indian treaty inviolate, a solemn guarantee strictly kept, till the land becomes worth its breaking. In briet, the white man demanded the valuable territory of the weaker one, and force compelled him to yield. What is generally known as the Brunot convention, from the name of the United States Commissioner, ensued. Articles of agreement for the cession of the San Juan were entered into September 13, 1873, by the Confederated Utes, and the necessary ratification made by Congress April 29, 1874. The portion opened to settlement in accordance with the Brunot convention of 1874 and the territory proper of the San Juan is bounded on the east by the 107th meridian, and limited upon the south, west, and north by the line of the present reserve, rectan- gular in shape, save the break in the north of the Uncompahgre Park, which is Indian land. It comprises in part the county of Conejos, nearly all of Hinsdale, Ouray, and Ae Plata, and entirely San Juan, with a total area slightly exceeding 6,000 square miles, 1754 REPORT OF THE CHIEF OF ENGINEERS. Under the general name of the San Juan country, however, are commonly denoted sections contiguous thereto, but outlying the San Juan proper, such as the Summit Mining District, Del Norte, and many other points. If, therefore, we liberally in- clude the region west of the Sangre de Cristo Range as far north as Saguache, all of which is directly interested in the industries of the mining country and is adjacent thereto, we shall have, including but a small part of the Indian reserve, a total area of 13,000 square miles, one-eighth of the entire State, and an area equal to that of Massachusetts, Rhode Island, and Connecticut combined. SECTION IJ].—ITS GENERAL CHARACTER. For convenience of treatment of the San Juan proper, the main agricultural region, watered by streams and rivers springing from the summits and flowing from the south- ern and western trend of the range, all on the Pacific watershed, may be distinguished as the lower country; the rest the upper. In the former are included the valley of the great San Juan River and those of its tributaries, the Navajo, the Blanco, the Piedra with its branch the Nutria, the Los Pinos and its West Fork, or the Vallecito, the Animas with its affluent, the Florida, the La Plata, and the Mancos, all flowing in a general direction to the south and southwest. The San Juan itself passes into New Mexico some 20 miles south of the Colorado line, and after receiving the Animas and the La Plata, changes to the northwest, ap- proaches so closely the point common to New Mexico, Colorado, and Arizona, that after leaving New Mexico but little over two miles of Colorado soil is watered ere it has entered the arid waste of Utah. That part of the Rocky Mountain system which is seen from the, great plains of Colorado as we approach from the east, extending from latitude 38° 30’ south to the line of New Mexico, latitude 37° north, is known as the Sangre de Cristo Range. Its name, the ‘‘Blood of Christ,” arose from the prevailing color of the rocks, and was given by the Spanish settlers of the country. Here and hereabout was formerly drawn an ethnical line of settlement, which extended west through much of the San Juan, as the general nomenclature will indicate; almost wholly on the north are the inhabitants Anglo-Saxons, while upon the east the rivers’ names are chiefly of Spanish origin, the Purgatoire excepted. The designation of this stream by some explorer or immigrant in the language of lovely France has not been successful; it is so written or printed only, it is never heard or spoken, and instead of the name with a Parisian accent or English signification, the stream is everywhere known as the ‘ Picket- wire.” While it contains, it is said, the loftiest peak of the chain in the United States, known as Sierra Blanca, 14,464 feet, a magnificent peak rising abruptly from the plain upon which it stands, nearly 7,000 feet, the post of Fort Garland being at its base, the Sangre de Cristo is not a part of the main continental divide, the great backbone of the continent, for down its western slopes find their way streams that flow into the Atlantic, tributaries of the Rio Grande. West of the range exists a great depression, the San Luis Valley, whose synclinal axis lies slightly east of south and has the area of its upper part much contracted by this mountain range in its westward tendency to meet the great continental divide. From this point, the great divide, till its passage into New Mexico, assumes the shape of a great Y, with the vertex to the west; the width at its mouth, the distance in an air line from summit to summit being over a hundred miles. The Sangre de Cristo slopes to the southeast, so that upon the border of New Mexico its mountain tops are 80 miles east from the top of the great watershed, the most southern point of the <. THE RIVERS. Springing from the very summits at the vertex of the divide, fed by banks of eternal snow, is the Rio Grande, a clear and beautiful stream, flowing down to the east through the center. Leaving the mountain slopes at Del Norte, it passes southeast and south through San Luis Valley on its long passage to the sea, where it differs as radically from its clear and lovely upper waters as do the country and climate from those of its origin. The lower part of the < or great divide is known locally as the San Juan Mount- ains, well named, for while their eastern slopes are washed by streams flowing to the Rio Grande, of all the waters draining their western slopes, already called the ‘lower country” of this region, the San Juan is the great receptacle. Close by the vertex of the <, flowing south, is the Animas, rising a dozen miles to the north in the Uncompahgre Mountains. Immediately to the west, beyond the divide of the Animas, rises the Dolores, and hard by, scarcely 2 miles away, the San Miguel. The latter flows directly northwest, emptying into the Dolores, which, passing south- west and northwest in the shape of a rude UY, has traversed twice the distance of the San Miguel, and is itself a feeder of the Grand in Utah. APPENDIX SS. 1755 The western ends of the Uncompahgre Mountains are washed by waters belonging to the San Miguel; their northern slopes are drained by the river of the same name, and in part by streams flowing, like the Uncompahgre itself, into the Gunnison. The lat- ter, rising far to the north, has a general westerly course, flows into the Grand, and, watering a magnificent country, has for its tributaries streams that drain some of the finest mineral and agricultural land in the State, a large part of which, however, is the territory of the savage. THE SAN LUIS VALLEY. The great San Luis Valley, properly so called, though often alluded to as a park, is bounded on the east by the Sangre de Cristo Range of the Rocky Mountain sys- tem, on the west by the San Juan and other mountains, constituting the great conti- nental divide. Although partially in New Mexico, it lies chiefly in Colorado, extending from the point where the Rio Grande crosses the line of New Mexico, nearly 100 miles in direction west of north, with a varying width, being at different places 40 miles across in an air line. In its northern part it is drained by the San Luis Creek, rising in the extreme north near the Pundio Pass, receiving the Saguache Creek from the west. The Sangre de Cristo Range, rising to over 13,000 feet, has for its prominent passes the Pundio in the north, the Mosca in the east, and the Sangre de Cristo and Abeyta, further south, the latter two continuous depressions in the range, all four being util- ized as passage-ways for wagon-roads. A point near the Abeyta has enabled the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad (narrow gauge) to surmount the range and enter the San Luis Valley. Upon the western side the slopes of the range are far more abrupt than upon the eastern. This causes more rapid flow of the streams entering the valley, and in its upper part a large number disappear in the sandy soil, reach- ing the deepest depression of the valley underground. The San Luis lakes are with- out an outlet, and owing to the almost level surface of the water-flow, a series of swamps arise, advancing and retreating in area with the rise and fall of the streams, the surfaces being the haunts of myriads of water fowl. Upon the western side of the valley, emerging from the mountains as if from a gate- way, at Del Norte appears the Rio Grande coursing southeast and then to the south, gathering in the Alamosa, La Jara, and Conejos on the west, the Trinchera, the Culebra, and Costilla upon the east; all streams that enter the valley upon either side above these are totally lost. About 6 miles below the Culebra’s mouth, not far below the Chavez ferry, where the plain is 25 feet above the water, its surface heightens to the south, and the cafion ot the Rio Grande begins. Deepening as it proceeds, till it is nearly 1,000 feet below the surface, with basaltic sides almost of bare cliffs, it presents a vast gorge, bespeak- ing the ruin of the past, through which the river has forced its passage. The steep mountain sides, bounding the valley; the glistening dunes piled about the Mosca Pass; the depression in its central part receiving all but not yielding any waters that flow to it, the little hillrocks of sand lower down, with long stretches encountered, from which the whirling winds toss up sandy pillars that may be often noticed to an immense height flying here and there; the rise in the plain to the south and the canon beyond of undoubted aqueous erosion, all suggest the vast inland sea of: the great geological past, when the land above possessed a vegeta.son at present un- known; and on water and shore were probably mammalia compared to which ours are scarcely more than pigmies. MOUNTAIN RANGES AND DETACHED SPURS. The large number of outlying masses, separate sierras, and detached spurs from the main range, all part and parcel of the Rocky Mountain system, within the San Juan proper, may be best understood by assuming the vertex of the great < of the con- tinental divide as the center of a square whose side is 30 miles, within which will be found more than 240 lofty peaks rising in every direction from 10,000 to 14,000 feet in height, silent monuments of the gigantic upheavals of nature. So complicated is the topography of this region that a thorough orographic description, defining and de- lineating in detail the various geological axes of the distinct sierras or detached groups, with their separate radial axes referred to geometrical figures, would, unless of great length, be so complicated and perplexing as to result in little save confusion worse confounded. We will therefore attempt but. a general summary of the largest masses with reference to the great divide, and the rivers already mentioned. The section within this square has been aptly likened to one of the ‘‘domes of the continent.” It certainly is so of the Rocky Mountain system within the United States. Nowhere can be found, for such an area, so great a precipitation. Loftier peaks than rise in the continental divide are found without it, particularly north of the vertex; the rivers rise here and flow to every point of the compass, as a casual glance at the map will demonstrate. The Rio Grande to the east, draining the in- 1756 REPORT OF THE CHIEF OF ENGINEERS. terior slopes of the great <, the San Juan, the Los Pinos, and others on the southern side of the lower part bound south and southwest; the Animas, immediately west of the vertex, has forced a passage to the south through the mountain barriers in an enormous gorge; the Dolores and San Miguel to the west of the divide of the Animas west and northwest; the Uncompahgre beyond the source of the Animas to the north and northwest, while near by is the Lake Fork of the Gunnison flowing south, then east, and finally to the north into that river. THE PAGOSA SPUR. One of the handsome spurs in the lower San Juan is the divide between the head- waters of San Juan and the Piedra, extending from the main range some 12 miles to the southwest and terminating in a very handsome pyramidal peak, rising sym- metrically from the mountains about, giving the general effect of a towering cen- tral spire in some fine architectural structure. Although but 12,674 feet in height, the lower elevations adjoining render it a fine point for triangulation, especially from the east, south, and west, for which it has been utilized by both the Wheeler and Hayden engineers. Itsname was derived from the celebrated Pagosa Springs of Indian nomenclature, which it overlooks. THE NEEDLES The most remarkable geological formation certainly in Colorado, and probably in the entire country, is to the west, mainly between the Los Pinos and the Animas Rivers, south of the great divide, and particularly about the heads of the Florida, Animas tributaries, and those of the Vallecito or West Fork of the Pinos. They are designated as the Quartzite Group or Crags by the geographers, but are locally known as the ‘‘ Needles.” The metamorphic changes by which the rocks were altered to quartzite, with the crystallization peculiar thereto, together with the terrible upheavals and convulsions of nature attending these alterations, have combined to distort the strata and render the peaks more rugged than any elsewhere to be found. Their name arises from.their appearance ata short distance. Instead of encircling in graceful rounded slopes, mountain valleys, well timbered and full of nutritious grasses, they rise precipitously, abruptly, with sharp summits, with thin and pointed tops, most veritable crags. Ascents with animals are impossible; on foot it is a matter of extreme difficulty and often bodily suffering. Rising to heights of 12,000 to 14,000 feet, even when there is a way to reach their summits, it is only accomplished by climbing up rock over rock, or over slopes and débris at the foot, lying as steeply as hard rocks will lie, the flint-like edges cutting boots and shoes invariably. This mass of steep, precipitous slopes, with ravines between well-nigh impassable, withont graz- ing in their limits proper, can play but one part in the future economy of the San Juan, that of a portion of its mineral wealth, to be hereafter noticed. Two outline sketches (Plate I) herewith accompanying, giving east and west rivers from a peak at the headwaters of the West Fork of the Vallecito (Camp 52), will serve to convey an idea of the formations described. THE LA PLATA MOUNTAINS. The next range to the west appearing to the traveler in the lower San Juan is the La Plata Group, a number of peaks at the lower end of the huge divide between the waters of the Animas and those to the west. They trend gently to the west and east, and end abruptly to the south, where the La Plata River emerges from the mountains, between which, for a dozen miles or more, it has coursed it way southwest and south, At this point of departure from the mountains, beautifully situated on a wide platean, is Parrott City, the attractions being the lodes of silver, whence the river and mount- ains derive their name, and the placer deposits claimed to exist along the stream. BAKER’S PARK. Passing up the valley of the Animas through the lovely part which the river waters and the Grand Cafion beyond, an immense gorge, varying in depth from the summits of the quartzite peaks on either side 3,000 to as great as 5,000 feet, Baker’s Park is reached, noteworthy for its topographical features and for the mining interests here centered. It extends from the mouth of Mineral Creek up the Animas as far as Eureka, 10 miles along the river, with a general width of about $ mile. The park proper, however, is only the lower part, where at Mineral Creek it is 2 miles wide, narrowing to the north, about 3 miles in length along the stream, containing perhaps 2,500 acres. We here pause to note this remarkable level piece of land, completely encircled by mountains rising abruptly about 4,000 feet above it, excessively steep as are all the — Ouflme of peaks and ridges of the Animas watershed, Angle N.49°W. magnetic . Anele N. 64° E. Inagnetic . Outline of peaks and ridges of the Vallecito Watershed. LLL YY » fae | | NEEDIdé MOUNTAIN 5. THE Outline S es froni station ou ride above ketch Lake Colimbirie ai head of West Fork of Vallecito. Sept..4 11878. ce a |: . pe a eS A Se Fae Far ae + ae ; goo PaO ee Lala SR a a: tp; , F es Ht “its 5 . «jek ‘. A > pee ce — OR age , f “> ree 1h hates ray a 3 abe nae ‘ > ie Bi, ws or : ae f REE bainaiier: whe ait tpsax APPENDIX SS. Lat peaks bordering directly along the river. It lies, so to speak, like a little spot at the bottom of an immense bowl, whose sides tower nearly a mile into the skies above; the mountains are huge sugar-loaf masses of trachyte, fearfully irregular; no gentle slopes are present, but successive cliffs, with débris between, sheer precipicas from 400 to 1,000 feet being observed ; narrow gulches, at whose upper ends alone are passes found, separate the peaks themselves, while over the sides with rapid flow dash down the mountain-streains.at angles from 40° to 75° into the gulches or the park below. By whatever pass you descend to the park there obtains to the newcomer therein a sensation of confinement, a feeling of insecurity and dread, as if the huge crags above, placed around by gigantic upheavals, might totter and move from their bases; and you involuntarily contrast the situation with the huge park of the Animas below, which is passed through with a feeling of pleasure and admiration in viewing its scenic beauty. This is properly but a widening of the river’s cafion; below there are places in the grand cafion of 250 yards in width, but of small extent; here it suddenly widens out to over 2,500, and the far-famed Baker’s Park is the result. Elsewhere a park of this size would not seem unusual; here it is very attractive, and whether it be reached by the ascent of the cation of the Animas, or by descent from any of the lofty mountain passes that guard it in every other direction, one is duly impressed with the remarkable topography of the situation. Viewed in the light of its central position in an immense storehouse of mineral wealth, as the seat of population and industry, as a basis of supply and a point whence all business must radiate and return, it assumes an additional importance not before possessed. THE SAN MIGUEL MOUNTAINS. West from San Miguel or Trout Lake, so called from its abounding in fish at an un- usually high altitude, stretches, as a divide between the Dolores and San Miguel, a group known as the San Miguel Mountains, a number of the peaks exceeding 14,000 feet. To the peaks themselves names various and unlike have been assigned by the engineers of the different government parties surveying them. While this serves an economical purpose in perpetuating honor upon several individuals by the use of the same identical point, it is rather perplexing to the student of geography. The region of the San Miguel is one of the most promising of the undeveloped sec- tions. THE LAKE FORK MOUNTAINS. Passing up the Animas River, east from its headwaters and north from the vertex of the great divide, there are found several lofty peaks, about 14,000 feet, the topmost summit being known as Handie’s Peak, on whose slopes are the American Basin and Burrows Park, promising mining-camps. From its slopes flow down waters of the Lake Fork of the Gunnison, so called be- cause the stream, an affluent of the Gunnison, widens out into a large and beautiful lake, called San Cristobal, or Saint Christopher, ere it leaves the mountain region. Apparently undecided in its course, this stream, after flowing to the south, turns to the east, and then assumes a northerly direction, which it follows until the Gunnison is reached. Over 20 miles from its head is Lake City, the most promising town in the San Juan, at the mouth of Hensen Creek, a tributary whose headwaters are not far distant, and whose course is a little north of due east. Between Hensen Creek and the Lake Fork are the Lake Fork Mountains. While they might be adjudged but a part of the Uncompahgres themselves, from which they . are separated by the gorge of Hensen Creek, they may be otherwise known from their being almost entirely encircled by the waters of the two streams mentioned. Approaching them from any direction ata distance, they do not give that deep impression which a closer view imparts. Instead of low peaks not excessively loftier than their surroundings, you come upon deep gorges, cut by the streams washing their bases, whence rise up peaks from 3,000 to nearly 4,000 feet above, a magnificent range with graceful contours and sky-lines, deep cafions, and dashing mountain-torrents. A large lake below, in whose surface are reflected the high colors of its rocks, con- trasting with the timber beneath, completes one of the handsomest mountain land- scapes in the entire region. Its wealth of mineral has, moreover, attracted thither more capital than any other place in the Territory, and prosperity of a substantial nature undoubtedly exists. THE UNCOMPAHGRE MOUNTAINS. This range is situated at the headwaters of the Uncompahgre River and contiguous streams, and is drained upon the south by Hensen Creek and streams of the San Miguel; by the latter on the west, by the Uncompahgre and Lake Fork waters upon the north, and by the latter also upon the east. Except the Elk Mountains, this is 1758 REPORT OF THE CHIEF OF ENGINEERS the farthest north of the mineral ranges of the San Juan, and has furnished some of the finest mines of the entire region. The Uncompahgre Peak is, in its eastern part, the highest point, rising to beyond 14,400 feet, a huge precipitous mass. In its western portion, Mount Sneffles is the loftiest, being over 14,200 feet. The latter is the best known and the most important in the range on account of its mineral wealth. This has been mapped as Blaine’s Peak, in honor probably of the distinguished Senator, in some of the maps of this region. By the latter name, however, can it scarcely be perpetuated, as it has long been differently called, and, being the seat of most valuable and important mining deposits, by official records it has been otherwise designated. To the northwest the mountains slope into the Great Uncompahgre Plateau, the divide between the waters of the San Miguel on the west and those of the Uncom- pahgre and the Gunnison on the east. The slopes on the mountains on the immedi- ate north are excessively steep, and the streams have cut most frightful canons. Not content with penetrating the deep volcanic rock, they have passed into the underlying sandstones. The lovely park of the Uncompahgre lies below, inaccessible, intervening a succes- sion of precipices, dashing torrents, huge bowlders, and fallen timber crossed and interwoven. The only passage-way is a steep and dangerous trail leading through this scene of desolation, and the journey to the park below is not made without per- sonal danger. Beyond stretches the great and rich agricultural valley of the Uncompahgre, from which settlers are now interdicted, it being upon the Indian reserve. THE RIO GRANDE SLOPES. Between masses of trachyte, looking down upon the river, until we have reached Wagon Wheel Gap, the Rio Grande is descended. The most remarkable geological formation, en route, attracting the attention of the passer-by, is the Bristol Head, the southern and culminating point of the Bristol Plateau, a great trachytic mass stretching from the continental divide, about 10 miles to the south, to the vicinity of the Rio Grande, perhaps 2 and 3 in width, aggregating almost 30 square miles in area, with an altitude of nearly 13,000 feet. Along its west- ern base, in the cafion, passes the highway from the Rio Grande to Lake City, about 3,000 feet beneath its summit, the sides of the cliff being mainly vertical. The upper part of the < of the great divide, rising to 13,000 feet, is known under the name of the Cochetopa Hills, from the stream flowing down the western slopes, an affluent of the Gunnison; its eastern sides are drained by Saguache Creek flowing east and south- east into San Luis Creek and the San Luis Lakes. The divide between this and the waters of the Rio Grande is called La Garita Hills. These sections exhibit in strong degree the plateau formations, which, cut by the various streams, give unusually steep though short cafions and abrupt mesas. An extension down to and closing upon the Rio Grande is reft by the river, giving that attractive little cation and interesting point called Wagon Wheel Gap. SECTION III.—TRENDS OF RANGES AND SLOPES. The direction of the surface inclination is an important function of the value of certain sections for agricultural and other purposes. The trend of the Sangre de Cristo Range to the northwest gives its surfaces within the valley more of southern warmth than would otherwise obtain. Snow is found often upon its eastern sides long after it has disappeared from that at the same altitude upon the valley slopes. This is more noticeable when directly considered with reference to the San Juan Mountains. Contrasting the valleys of streams upon the northern flank, affluents of the Rio Grande, with those upon the southern trend at the same altitude, we find the valleys of portions of the San Juan, Weeminuche, Los Pinos, Vallecito, the plateau of the Upper Piedra, &c., notable examples which have been personally observed in regard to greater Iuxuriance of vegetable growth. Its effect extending slightly to climatic influences gives those upon the northern inclination a more lengthened wintry aspect than the others. We have frequently come upon hillocks in a contiguous region of an altitude approaching 8,000 feet, where in January the northern slope would be cov- ered with nearly a foot of snow, whiley upon the southern the surface would be quite bare, affording fine grazing for the deer and elk. Traveling in higher regions during a series of snow-storms of continuance, this was more strongly substantiated. Considering this influence extended to the regions above, we find the snow falls earlier, lies longer upon the ground, and there is less area adapted to the growth of cereals than in that upon the southern flank of the mountains with otherwise similar situations. It has been stated that for a rise of 300 feet there is a decrease of temperature of 1 degree. This rule is not, however, arbitrary; there are many causes operating as APPENDIX SS. 1769 differentials thereof, of which a prominent one is the southern exposure, and if upon the surface, like isothermal curves, could run lines of limit to cereal cultivation, the comparison of their elevations upon the opposite sides of the range would be distinctly pronounced in favor of the southern. Beyond this area, where stretch at higher alti- tudes regions fitted for pasturage, an examination of their proper defining lines and above, the limit of arborescent vegetation, better known in the patois of the frontier as ‘‘timber-line,” will be found but an extension of the rule. SECTION IV.—THE SEASONS. In this elevated region there are, strictly speaking, two distinctive seasons prevail- ing, the wet and the dry, the former the longer. The long-continued rain-storms ac-~ companying the advent of the spring months do not obtain here as in the East with the almost daily increment of heat; in summer and early fall occurs the most frequent pre- cipitation of rain. This varies somewhat, however, with the locality. In North Cen- tral Colorado, September is known, from personal experience, to be the rainy month, affected by proximity to the main range, however; elsewhere, within 50 miles, the precipitation being much less. The storms generally occur in the afternoon, and from the rarity of the air and the arid state of the atmosphere, within a very brief time thereafter the surcharging of the air with moisture, noticed subsequent to rain-storms in the East, disappears. The local variation of rainfall was verified by personal observation and the record kept during the reconnaissance. In June, while along the Conejos, the La Jara, and the Alamosa rivers, andin the Summit mining district, at elevations varying from 7,800 to 12,000 feet, the weather was clear and beautiful; no rainfall occurred. In July, while along the Conejos, part of the Chama between Tierra Amarilla and Pagosa Springs, along the Blanco, the Piedra, and the Upper Los Pinos to the Rio Grande, it rained almost daily, mainly during the afternoon and evening, three hail- storms being met with. During the prevalence of this season, as is well known, the precipitation upon the mountain-tops is greater than below, storms there being frequently seen, while lower localities escaped. At Pagosa Springs, 7,084 feet (a supply camp), most beautiful sun- sets were observed and exemption from storms was had, while they could be seen not many miles distant. In August, while ascending and descending the San Juan and tributaries to as low as 7,000 feet in the Summit district, along the upper Rio Blanco, and the Navajo, the Chama, the Nutria, the Piedra, and the Los Pinos, we encountered twelve storms of rain, with four of hail, the heaviest met with during the trip, and the most severe being near the summits of the mountains. Several times marches were made through heavy storms to valleys of less altitude which had escaped, as was found the month before. In September, the region traversed was the Upper Los Pinos, the Vallecito and trib- utaries (where snow-storms were encountered), both upper and lower parts of the same the Florida, the Animas to the San Juan and vicinity, the La Plata, the Mancos, the Dolores, and the Grand Cafion of the Animas to Silverton and Howardsville. In all these marches but six rain-storms (two of them with hail) were met with, chiefly in the mountains. All were in the first portion of September, heavy frosts occurring daily after the early part of the month. In Ocober, the sections passed over included the Lake City region and vicinity, the Rio Grande, including its South Fork, the Summit district, and Del Norte, the entire - cation of the Rio Alamosa, the Conejos, &c., during which but two rain-storms, with Six severe snow-storms, of extended area were encountered, the localities of all being near the mountain summits or upon elevated plateaus. From the above it will be seen that most of the rainy days were in July and part of August, and from the middle of the former for about a month the greatest precipita- tion was met with. None befell us anywhere in August after the 18th and scarcely any in September; in October, those occurring were but exceptional ones, till the win- ter’s inclement season began with heavy snows in the mountains. One of the oldest settlers upon the Animas, who came into our camp at Pagosa Springs, volunteered the information that the rains in the lower San Juan travel west- ward in a regular manner; that is, that the rainy season commences earlier and ceases sooner in the eastern portion of this region than in the western; that when over at the Chama and the Navajo, they still prevail upon the Los Pinos and the Animas; in short, that had we begun in the latter country and worked to the east, this disagreeable feature of outdoor life in the mountains would have been escaped. Whether, as he insinuated, it would be possible for the traveler to commence at the west and passing east to avoid all of the storm limit save at the point of passage must remain a matter of conjecture. It is simply mentioned for the benefit of those hereafter in a like situation. 1760 REPORT OF THE CHIEF OF ENGINEERS. All the streams are of course higher, while in the storm area, than before and after. This was noticed in various rivers, particularly at points of the Chama, the Navajo, and the Blanco, revisited in August, originally passed a month earlier. Ascending from the lower \ alley s to the summits of the mountains and points occu- pied for mining purposes, the seasons, with reference to warmth, may be said to con- sist of but winter and summer, W ith the latter scarcely a fourth of the former. In many places snow begins falling i in October, soon blocking the trails and passage-ways, and continues until late in the spring, the oreatest snowt fall generally occurring, it is affirmed, in March. The deep snows of the long seasons render work impracticable, and often access, save on snowshoes, impossible, until late in June. In fact, July, August, Septem- ber, and October in part, can alone be connted upon as the working-season above eround in amining-camp. All such are at a great altitude, probably i in the main above 11,000 feet, frequently up to and over 13, 000. Here it rarely rains; save for scarcely over a month the storms are all of snow, which accumulate to a great depth. The precipitation at Denver (elevation 5,200 feet), situated at the base of the mount- ains, was, for the year ending June 30, 1875, 15 inches; during that closing on June 30, 1876, 24 inches; and the average e annual rainfall for 5 years, from 1872 to 1876, in- clusive, but 16.1 inches. At the Summit mining district, southwest of Del Norte, in the San Juan, at an alti- tude of 11,300 feet, where an accurate meteorological record has been kept for three years, and which was kindly furnished me by Prof. Charles E. Robins, of the Little Annie Mining Company, the annual precipitation of snow was nearly 290 inches, aggregat- ing 24 feet for three years in succession, July being the only month without snowfall. The immense precipitation at the summit and like situations along the topmost ridges of the continental divide, where le chiefly the most valuable mining-c camps, and the resultant severity of the long winters, will at once be understood. The average annual temper ature at the summit for the same period, from 7 a. m. to 9 p. m., was "B20, and during eight and one-third months, save on snowshoes, nothing could be done in the way of outdoor employment. ve this low temperature is the average between the hours named, the heat of the noonday sun is intense, being angmente 1 by the reflection of the snow and other causes. There exists, in short, a tropical heat of brief duration, preceded and fol- lowed by an arctic cold. The rarity of the air and consequent difficulty of physical exertion, the severity of the season, the long intervals of isolation from civilization, and the cessation of mail facilities, exert deleterious effects upon all subjected thereto. Consequently, dur- ing most of the year, mining-camps are found deserted, the population almost wholly departing for lower localities with the advent of the wintry season, returning late in the spring. Illustrative thereof may be mentioned the population of the summit, which, aggregating 125 in June last, was during the previous winter but 12. The comparatively small rainfall of Denver, “Colorado Springs, and similar locali- ties of the dry region along the high table- lands and bases of the mountains, may be better comprehended by a glance at the annual rainfall of the followi ing interior and sea-coast points of the ‘United States, obtained from the records of observers of the Signal Office, for the year ending June 30, 1875: Inches. Denver osc sete a kd AP eS ate Oe ee pe aes ee BS i is Cote sare cae = an oo Colorado Springs’ ....'. Basse 0. s see es cocene Seem memeedes sce eed os oo 2 Philadelphiar 2. -25 22 S28 anos Sele geet wide veumeae aoe Hg FARE ae eA Washington sso-cs 2! Bee Pat i cig Phe) eee pees Pare 2 th ANP IEE AE deathinca ahbeau 2 eee Saint Louis ae tacit dc ae as eis SR aoe 2 Soe bie eb aw kee as ns ee ce oo oe Boston, 023 deiese eee ere oF Lee ae ees oe a cons Co cs pana ene New York 2. ote ee eas on ree oe ree esas wc ae we eee Baltimore: . 262%) Gc See Ie ii ce ee i « aa ce oe oe oe ae ne Charleston .-.2 622. 220 ea aa Se ee 8. ok. Se Savannah... ic 2. 2S't eee eee re Jacksonville: 22:22. See ee ee eee? @ ee ee New Orleans ...-.- « vec’ Doe ne a) ae ee! 1) High-water season.—With the approach of summer heat the effect upon the great accumulation of snow is apparent, producing the ‘‘ June rise” of the rivers flowing from the range, wholly a seasonal variation. At this time all streams are at their highest period of the year. Dry arroyas and clayey banks are filled with rushing waters, small brooks .are transformed into rivers, and the larger streams, the Rio Grande i in particular, become formidable barriers. Besides the annual rise in the streams of mountain origin, there is during the season of high water a distinct variation of daily occurrence. This diurnal rise and fall is not abnormal in its action, the period of lowest ebb being about 10 o’clock a. m., due to the great increment of heat accompanying the noonday sun. APPENDIX SS. 1761 The huge banks of snow that are thus rendered soft and impassable, sending forth from the bottoms of the basins wherein they lie great streams of water, harden as the sun descends, and during the night are frozen with the falling temperature. A corresponding decrease in the snow-water sent forth, of course, results, locally a minimum with the greatest cold, making 10 o’clock the most advantageous hour for passing mountain rivers in general. This crust on the snow-banks, which fill ravines and block the traveler’s way, fur- nishes the only means of passage over such obstacles. As it disappears with the advent of the morning sun, we were compelled on such occasions to rise before dawn, with the temperature most decidedly arctic. SECTION V.—CLIMATE. Descriptive remarks on the nature of the country would be incomplete without a reference to its climate, one of its chief characteristics. Without entering into a formal disquisition thereon, or attempting to discuss in detail its varied efiects in the manifold diseases for which it is sought; without inten- tion to intrude upon the domain of railroad companies, real-estate agencies, or mining corporations, and proclaim it the ‘‘Switzerland ” of the continent, or to advertise it to the detriment of Minnesota, Southern California, Florida, or the Bermudas, as the Great North American Sanitarium, it is thought a few commonplace notes might not be found wholly devoid of interest, being based upon personal observation. _ In 1875, while convalescent from an attack of chronic pneumonia in New York Har- bor, being directed by my physicians to try the climate of Colorado, the writer was accordingly taken thither. A companion from home, suffering from acute phthisis, lasted but four weeks. Left alone, horseback-riding was attempted for short distances, and continued over mountains and plains with the most markedly beneficial effects, and the improvement continued until over 2,000 miles in Colorado, New Mexico, and a portion of Old Mexico had been so traversed. An extensive acquaintance with the elevated regions of the Rocky Mountains was thus in time obtained. The seat of thickest population in the State is thus far in the belt of the great plains, along the immediate bases of the mountains on the east, of which Denver is the most important point. Its elevation is 5,200 feet, the land rising to the south, where is the divide between the waters of the Platte and the Arkansas. Pueblo is below 5,000 feet, and Trinidad is nearly 6,000 feet. Of elevations in the basin of the San Juan River we have 7,100 feet at Pagosa Springs, 5,300 at the mouth of the Animas and the La Plata, descending to 4,600 at the mouth of the Mancos, where it leaves the State for Utah. To the north are great ranges, as there are to the west of Denver and the towns to the south of it. Beyond and to the north of the ‘‘Dome of the Continent,” the great mountain center and mining section of the upper San Juan, lies the extensive valley of the Gunnison in the Indian reserve, similarly situated as the San Juan below. The Indians will ere long be compelled to retreat; this great valley, like the lower one, will in time be thickly settled, and whatever peculiarities or advantages of climate have been found existing near Denver will without radical difference be found to ob- tain here. Taking the area‘of mountain and plain, the average altitude of the State is between 6,000 and 7,000 feet, approximating 6,000. Appertaining to this elevated region are several climatic features remarkably different from those of the great States in the East, rendering it a most desirable home for invalids suffering from certain diseases. Prominent is its altitude, with accompanying atmospheric phenomena, as the large amounts of electricity, the large number of bright sunny days, and the increased pro- portion of ozone. In addition thereto is the rarity of the atmosphere with its slight humidity, its exceptional clearness, and the moderate rainfall already mentioned. To those enjoying good health the sensations attendant upon the first entrance into these regions are generally pleasant. The nervous system, which controls the vital parts so strongly, is at once excited by climatic influences to a marked degree of ten- sion. A difficulty of breathing upon slight exertion, dependent on the degree of health, at once appears, increasing as the high regions and mountains are penetrated. This partly disappears as one becomes acclimated. The physical functions, whether in good play or disordered, are immediately excited to a strength of action to which the system is a stranger; the appetite is increased, digestion is perfect, and sleepless nights are unknown. This is the most marked beneficial result, and one is astonished at his great eraving for food. ) With the setting sun all warmth departs, the heated summer nights of the East are unknown, and one or more blankets are always a necessity. The statement has been made that the rise of 300 feet in altitude gives a decrease of one degree in temperature—a rule subject to much and local variation, as shown in the average climate of various points of Colorado, influenced, doubtless, by sheltering ranges, &c. Itts 1762 REPORT OF THE CHIEF OF ENGINEERS. The average temperature is about that of New York and Philadelphia, but heat and cold are not so perceptible, since the hot nights experienced in the East are un- known here, and on account of the excessive dryness of the air there follow many bright and lovely days. The latter fact is attested by any one’s experience, and the ‘meteorological records of Denver show that during three years there were but twelve days during which the sun was totally obscured by clouds. The former is a well- known fact, a temperature of 10° above zero in New York Harbor being far more severe upon the system than that of 10° below in the mountains. With the moist atmosphere of the seashore a similar degree of cold would in the mountains be unbearable. No matter how warm it be in the sun, a breeze or current of air will always be felt in the shade. The diurnal variation of the temperature is considerable, and increases with the altitude. With an increase in rarefaction corresponding tothe elevation, the heat ° of the sun passes more readily through the atmosphere, and upon the highest mount- ains the midday heat is burning; with the setting of the sun the atmosphere as readily gives forth its warmth and an opposite temperature succeeds. Within a valley of 8,500 feet elevation in August, traveling at noonday was almost intolerable, while during the night water was frozen in buckets near our tents. The air being at the bases of the mountains, say, one-fifth lighter than at the sea- coast, there would be a square inch pressure of 12 pounds instead of 15 as at the sea- shore, whence would result the extra exertion of the respiratory organs to the extent of one-fifth to obtain the requisite amount of oxygen. With increased altitude is associated also greater amounts of electricity. At lofty elevations electric phenomena are often more marked than pleasant. In snow-storms upon mountain tops we have witnessed the strongest and most disagreeable manifesta- tions thereof, with peals of thunder accompanying, to the delight of neither man nor mule. The increased respiration necessitated, resulting soon in greater chest development, the stimulated nervous system, the increased blood circulation, with diminished atmos- pheric pressure, all combined with the electrical influences of a tonic nature, have directly resulting effects in a more salutary condition of existence. The diseases for which this climate should be sought are asthma, chronic bronchitis, and incipient phthisis pulmonalis. By invalids suffering chiefly from troubles allied to the many stages and forms of pulmonary consumption this region will be always sought. All such as go in time will be benefited; with proper care and treatment, and — the mode of life adapted to their cases, they will recover. Those going too late, will. have their disease assume advanced forms sooner than elsewhere, and the later stages and death will sooner occur. The number of consumptives who have sought relief in Minnesota and Florida is very great, readily understood from the statement by high medical authority that over 20 per cent. of deaths in the East from all causes are from this malady. The railroad companies have extensively advertised the climate of Colorado as a sure specific for this disease, and many in stages far advanced are lured from homes and fond ones only to find an earlier grave. But to those who go in time, not hope- lessly yielding to the malady, not content to remain in first-class hotels and boarding- _houses, but determined to lead an outdoor life, with the fascinations of ‘‘camping ~ out” amid magnificent scenery and the sports and pleasures to be found therein, to them will come a new lease of life. In order, however, to arrive at these gratifying effects, various degrees of altitude should be essayed by the invalid, as their adaptation varies with the case and its con- dition. Those with weakest lungs and suffering from hemorrhage should avoid great elevations. In the older time, before the railroad spanned the plains and the journey from the Missouri River necessitated a month or more, invalids became acclimated as they traveled slowly up the great plateau to the mountains, and when the base was reached, a cure had almost been effected. The rapid transit of the present day is to the detri- ment of the invalid. If the elevation does not bring improvement, the patient should try one of less altitude and ascend later; an exercise of good judgment will soon de- termine what point is best suited to his case, when an outdoor life should be. fol- lowed. There are a number of diseases, chiefly of chronic nature, upon which the effects of | high altitudes are not yet positively known and for which they should, therefore, not be sought. Such are chronicrheumatism, neuralgia, chronic catarrh, and the periodical malady known as ‘‘ hay-fever.” The remedial effect of some of the hot sulphur springs — of the State in rheumatic troubles of long standing is yet to be definitely determined. Other diseases exist to which these great altitudes are highly aggravating, chiefly epi- lepsy, chorea, and all forms of cardiac disease.- To those so afflicted approach to lofty elevations should never be made, as in many instances fatal results have ensued. To those camping out in the open air, slight inconvenience is at first found in the effects of the dryness of the atmosphere and the hot rays of the sun. The skin, when exposed, on hands and face, peels off in the most annoying manner and soreness ensues, - APPENDIX § 8. 1763 a most mottled facial appearance resulting. The worst case ever noted was an Eng- lishman of title, with whom the writer was hunting for five weeks in the upper parks of Colorado. To his facial appearance, while being ‘ acclimated,” the old simile of a <“hoiled lobster” would be inadequate. ; The enjoyment of traveling is occasionally marred by high wind-storms, with accom- panying dust, chiefly in the lower regions. These were noticed mainly in the spring | months. The many sunny days, the possibility of outdoor sleeping without liability to cold, “and the great clearness of the atmosphere are charming realities, that must be seen, that must be experienced, to be fully appreciated. The wonderful atmospheric clear- _ness is especially to be remarked, rendering distances exceedingly deceptive; mount- -ains that seem but ten miles away will often be found more than double the distance. _. The sojourner in this reg#on is apt occasionally to suffer from a troublesome malady, known locally as the ‘‘mountain fever.” Thoughso called from its prevalence in the , higher altitudes, it extends to the lower regions, and at least part of the plains be- ond. As severe a case as was ever observed was that of a resident of Pueblo, below 5,000 feet. Unless aborted at its start, this fever is of a continued nature, with regular stage, chills and remissions occuring. While at a mining camp in Upper Colorado in 1875, the writer was troubled with an attack of this malady and treated by the old miners with copious doses of tea of the sage-brush (Artemisia tridentata), afterward taking quinine. Dr. Smart, U. 8. A., who has devoted much time and study to this obscure malady, has demonstrated its origin as due to the organic taints contained in the mountain streams from vegetable matter therein; that these airy substances, | arising in microscopic forms from lowlands, are swept by prevailing winds to the higherregions above, where precipitation from the upper atmosphere, with falling snow, _- oceurs.* CHAPTER I1.—AGRICULTURE AND PASTORAL PURSUITS. .* The agriculture of the San Juan, like the rest of the State, can never be of a very _ extensive character; that Colorado can ever produce sufficient cereals for home con- ' sumption is as yet a matter of speculation, scarcely now affirmed by the most enthu- siastic inhabitant. Owing tothe great rarity of the air, the increased dryness of the atmosphere, and the lighter rainfall, with alkaline constituents more largely in the soil, the moisture precipitated immediately disappearing, the amount is not adequate _ for the sustenance of vegetable growth like that existing in regions nearer the level ' of the sea, and save along water-courses the vegetation is of a limited nature. Such obtains upon the great prairies east of the bases of the mountains and near its foot- “hills. By irrigation alone can agriculture thrive, and, despite statements to the contrary, the amount of arable land or tracts that can be cultivated without the expenditure of enormous sums for irrigating-canals, the total area producing marketable amounts of cereals must, when compared with the territory of the entire State, bear but little _ larger proportion than does the flower-garden of the housewife to the great acres of the farm. At present the main supply of grain comes from Kansas, destined to be- come the great granary of the West. The soil in the valleys and near the foot-hills adapted for agriculture, being the result. of denundation from the mountains above, is generally dry and sandy, and _ owing to the alkaline depositions which frequently appear upon the surface of the ground, there results a marked effect on the vegetable products. The crops and pro- duce of the soil of all kinds are very rich, more particularly noticeable in the cereals. The flour of Colorado is remarkably fine, and the visitor will at once observe the un- usually fine and white appearance of the bread. It is said there are tricks in every trade, and to the wheat supply there is no excep- tion: The supply of Colorado flour being unequal to the demand, a large quantity of Kansas production is ground at the flouring-mills, and, in Colorado sacks, is sold for the genuine domestic article. ‘The cereal area is limited to lower elevations, the high valleys possessing seasons too long and severe for the perfect maturing of the grain. The exact altitude to which this is limited varies locally, and is, of course, higher in the San Juan in general than in Northern Colorado, and higher also in the lower region, where its northern flanks _ are sheltered by the main range, than in the upper country. Then within each sec- . tion of similar elevation the summer season may deviate or alternate within a range - which, permitting a harvest during one year, might the next prevent the perfect growth of grain. In Northern Colorado, along the Upper Boulder, in a narrow valley of about 8,000 feet, less than 10 miles to the east of the main range, in 1875, a crop of *Smart, Mountain Fever and Malarious Waters. Am. Jour. Med. Sc., July, 1878, pp. 17-43. iti: ie REPORT OF THE CHIEF OF ENGINEERS. oats is remembered to have failed to ripen and, damaged by early frosts, was harvested in the stalk. There was, however, some exceptionally severe weather early in the season, and on the 18th of September nearly 10 inches of snow fell, the storm cover- ing a very great area in both Northern and Southern Colorado, including the plains. The year previous, we were informed, a similar crop had matured and was success- fully harvested. As the altitude is increased, the diurnal range of temperature is greater, and hence the danger from early frosts. The agriculture of the San Juan is as yet in its primitive stage, almost all the atten- tion and capital of the country having been concentrated in mining interests. The San Luis Valley bears witness to the wealth of the produce returned by the soil under proper cultivation. In following up the Rio Grande, the Mexicans have ascended divers tributary waters, and upon these and alofig the main river can their apologies for farms be seen. Generally content with simple existence, but little vari- -ety in the produce of their lands is observed. The turning of the soil with oxen and a sharpened stick, the thrashing by flail and trampling under foot, and the erushing of the grain between stones can be so frequently seen, that the charm of novelty is lacking and one’s curiosity is soon satiated. Progress is not their hope or desire, and. content to eke out a bare subsistence, their ambition does not extend beyond a baile, or the tripping of the “light fantastic,” with surroundings that.are here, as a rule, far from enchanting. Their cultivation of the soil tells of Eastern origin and traditions, and is by irrigation from acequias or ditches. Smaller ditches at intervals lead out from the main, being connected by parallel ones thereto; furrows of earth of varying height are raised at stated points parallel and perpendicular to one another, eutting up the entire area into many patches nearly square and of small extent. With the planting of the seed and the main ditch filled, all the smaller outlets and various sec- tions being simultaneously overflowed, the entire area is carefully submerged, the little furrows confining the water in each section. To the inexperienced farmer the first successful irrigation of his land is a matter of considerable labor and pains. Besides the thorough moistening of the earth obtained by the gradual settling of the waters, a fertilizing process is at the same time insured. These streams carry in solu- tion much rich and valuable material from the denudation of sections drained in their passage, which is left in deposit like a superstratum of manure. The latter is never -used, the farmer depending upon irrigation for the supply of those constituents ex- tracted from the soil in the growth of produce. The Rio Grande descends from 7,750 feet at Del Norte to 7,400 on leaving the State for New Mexico. Upon its western side numbers of locations are along the Piedra Pintada, which sinks a few miles from the Rio Grande, the Alamosa and La Jara, but chiefly along the Conejos, the most thickly-settled of all its tributaries; upon the east- ern are the Trinchera, Culebra, and Costilla, the Culebra above San Luis being on this - side the seat of largest habitation. In the upper part of San Luis Valley is situated the finest land of that section. With the mountain range encircling it upon the east, north, and west, exposed only upon the south, whence do not come the heavy snow-storms and coldest winds, it con- tains the finest land for cereal and other productions. Drained by the San Luis Creek and the Sawatch, its tributary, the ranchmen who have located along the streams have been rewarded for their labor by very abundant crops of all kinds. Thronugh- out the valley large herds of cattle find ample sustenance, the property mainly of Americans, while numerous herds of sheep of Mexican ownership are driven to and fro. The valley of the Conejos, with its affluents, the San Antonio and Los Pinos Creek, is a most fertile region. Several miles east from Conejos, during the high stages of the - rivers in June, water from the San Antonio finds its way into the former river above the latter’s mouth, forming an island. This section is especially rich and there exists - almost a natural irrigation, the Mexican ranchmen raising large crops of all kinds at the cost of but little labor therefor. Of all the regions west of the Rio Grande, that from the Conejos to the La Jara is the most desolate, and for ten miles of the way from the Conejos, while the hardness of the fragmentary volcanic rock of which it is constituted made it the finest of roadways, all other conditions combined to render it in June and July naught save a waste and desert. The sage-brush and greasewood which elsewhere grew knee and waist high, was here literally burnt out to 8 or 10 inches, never exceeding a foot. This was very limited in quantity and was all that existed of a general vegetation. Now and then was seen a solitary flower, evidently lost from its brethren, with but an occasional cactus or - “soap-weed,” the average being not over an inch of vegetation to the square foot. Fragments of lava, basalt chiefly, and some trachyte were everywhere about. The reflected air, heated and burning the face and filling the lungs, was almost parching. Not a single insect was observed, hardly a blade or tuft of grass ina mile. Even all the feathered tribe avoided this barren place, no birds whatever being noticed save the ~ horned lark and a single sparrow near its edge. Passing over this desolate region, APPENDIX SS. 1765 the winds from the mountains to the west alone relieved the terrible heat. For their providential occurrence one is.devoutly thankful. Three miles east of the La Jara the soil is of a gravelly, sandy nature, with clayey constituents, the trend of the land being toward the stream, bordered by ranches or farms, very productive in vegetation and crops. Here, as throughout the whole San Luis Valley, the only trees are along the banks of the river, all streams being timber inged. The Alamosa and La J ara, during the lower parts of their courses upon the plain, run side by side. At the foot-hills they diverge, the head of the Alamosa being for the northwest, its course throughout in a generally narrow and very deep cafion, while the upper waters of the La Jara are due west at but half as great a distance. All the portions of the former that are available for agriculture are its banks on the plain and a short part of its cation valley within the foot-hills, upon which Mexican ranches are found. Upon the La Jara are afew more Americans than upon the former, the ranch-owners being mainly, however, of Mexican descent. A tributary, called by the geographer its North Fork, but locally known as Aguas Calientes, or Hot Springs Creek, where land is represented as adapted to grazing only, is found in reality to be adapted to the agriculture of the Mexicans, ranches at intervals being passed along its course. The entire course of the La Jara may be likened in its direction to a huge frying- pan in outline, the long handle upon the plain extending to the Rio Grande, the basin within the foot-hills to its source. Before reaching the plains the stream flows to the south, east, and north, the latter part in a steep precipitous canon strewn with basaltic rock, which the road avoids. This road, built by the county over a natural route, is in good order and affords the residents of the lower river easy access to its upper part, which, as we ascend and pass over the intervening rolling foot-hills, we find within a lovely valley, called by the Mexicans El Valle, to which they resort for hay. Its headwaters in this region, represented as only timbered and barren, is largely the re- verse. The volcanic rock strewn along, as we ascend the foot-hills well timbered with pifion, we leave behind us as we descend into the valley, a basin eroded from the gen- eral plateau by the waters of the stream, which has cut for itself, in its lower and more rapid descent, a small but impassable caiion. This valley is several miles long, of a varying width of from three-fourths to one and a half miles, is a beautiful spot, and has been located upon by several persons for cattle-ranches. The grazing was very fine, and so nearly level was the land, that the stream, here small and at its head- waters, pursued a most tortuous course. Trout were found more abundantly than at any other point. About 5 miles above our camp by the stream, rolling hillocks, as a divide, limit the basin of the La Jara on the north, the mountains to the west, beyond which are the waters of the Conejos, being over 1,000 feet; to the east the hills are 400. Perhaps a mile still farther to the north, in the center and bottom of another depression, is a handsome lake, nearly rectangular in shape, 1,820 feet in length by 1,140 feet wide, a clear and beautiful sheet of water, not indicated upon any of the maps. Fed by un- derground streams or springs, no outlet is visible or could be found. The wind blow- ing from the range to the west rolled the water in waves to the eastern shore, sug- gestive of an incoming tide, while fragments of sedges blown in upon the banks, bleached and white, gave the ground at a distance an alkaline appearance. To the north the rising ground is the extreme limit of this plateau. Beyond lies the cafion of the Alamosa, of which at this point a magnificent view is obtained. The descent of over 1,000 feet to the river below is very abrupt, and it was only after great diffi- _ culty that it was reached, the general depth of the caion above being fully 2,000 feet and as great at some points as 2,700 feet. | No attempts at agriculture in the high valley of the La Jara have as yet been prac- tically made by the settlers, whose small herds of stock were observed therein. The cation of the Alamosa, while containing some beautiful and high grassed parks of no mean dimensions, is of a general height too great to permit any agriculture, The largest was a lovely spot of nearly one hundred acres on a bench sloping from the river to the mountain walls, containing magnificent pasture. Deserted cabins, near a spring of the purest water, with mineral specimens in abundance told of the former proprietors, who, disappointed in prospecting, had left the country. From the summit of hills east of the head of the La Jara was obtained a fine out- look, showing the general plateau-character of the country to the south and east of the continental divide, everywhere strewn with volcanic matter. The rugged peaks above timber-line to the southwest abruptly ended at the West Fork of the Chama, the level to the south broken by the high timbered hills, and farther east beside the Conejos, while above the plains to the southeast rose the rounded sugar-loaf summit of San Antonio Mountain. Throughout this lower region, without exception, streams have with difficulty worn their passage through the great lava- flows, making all their beds caiions, narrow and confined, the sides abrupt and steep, and filled with sharp volcanic masses broken off from edges of the great flow. Agri- 1766 REPORT OF THE CHIEF OF ENGINEERS. culture is, therefore, limited to the valleys of the streams, all resulting from erosion, and hence narrow at their heads, generally widening out in their lower parts. It is, therefore, along the lower portions of the Conejos, San Antonio, and Los Pinos that most of the land cultivated is found. Clusters of houses here and there give a village or plaza, the largest of which is Conejos or Guadalupe, upon the river of that name. Along the Conejos, above this point and to the west about 10 miles, where the river emerges from its cation, a rapid and turbid stream, a narrow but beautiful valley of 8,000 feet elevation extends. Agriculture flourishing in cultivated land well fenced, the settlers being the usual Mexican ranchmen. Many thousands of sheep are owned along this river, the herds being driven to the northwest and southwest. THE CHAMA OR TIERRA AMARILLA SECTION. Beyond this point to the west no other place is found where agriculture has been attempted, until the Tierra Amarilla section, a collection of Mexican plazas, is reached. A half mile above Los Brazos, the most northern one, is the seat of the Park View colony, where a settlement was made by inducing Chicago persons to locate here. Upon a bench near by the river was the prospective town-site, and in the river-bottom, | — of very fine land, the ‘‘ farms,” the total acreage of which under actual cultivation was found to be about 8 acres and not exceeding 10. ; The plazas of the Tierra Amarilla (signifying yellow earth) are five in number, situ- ated in close proximity upon the Rio Chama near the mouth of the Rio Brazos, its Eastern Fork, and upon Nutritas Creek near by, and comprise a total of 800 popula- tion, whose industry is agriculture and sheep-raising, from 1,200 to 3,000 head being passed daily while in this region. This section contains the finest agricultural land in this part of New Mexico, being chiefly from 7,300 to 7,600 feet in elevation, and aggregating with the valleys of the Chama and tributary streams a total of fully 8,000 acres that will be valuable for — agriculture under proper irrigation. This is derived from statements of county officials, not visiting two of the plazas personally. Personal observations included an acreage of about 5,000, of which less than half was under cultivation, and in this, moreover, the tracts were not all under proper tillage, the area being much scattered. The amounts paid for forage here were in July 3 cents per pound for hay and 5 cents ~ for corn, or $60 per ton for the former and $2.80 per bushel for the latter, which may certainly be considered as almost ‘‘ bonanza” prices, when the fertility of this land is taken into consideration. This was almost 50 per cent. more than was paid at Animas City, far to the west. The immediate river bottom, near ‘‘ Park View,” averages not over one-quarter mile in width and between 5 and 6 miles long, containing some 900 acres, the whole a very pretty and attractive valley. Above this were passed two deserted Mexican villages of a dozen cabins each, the land about uncultivated. The inhabitants thereof, we were informed, had stampeded one night in 1865 from fear of the Indians, who had been in grand council near by for six days and nights, and contemplated, it was thought, a general massacre. That the Park View colonization, popularly denounced from its incipiency as a fraud, has culminated in failure is to be greatly regretted, as until ranchmen of American energy take hold of this region, its resources in an agricultural point of view will never be developed. THE NAVAJO. From the crossing of the Chama until the Navajo is reached there is but little land that will ever be available for anything save grazing; while it is of a nature to con- stitute a fine farming region, with sufficient alkaline constituents to insure large crops, there is a dearth of water, although upon all the maps it is not properly so indicated. During the three day’s march from the Chama to the San Juan, from 3,000 to 7,400 sheep were daily passed, and also 200 goats. The latter are the favorites of the Indians, small herds of which are possessed by various chiefs, and noticed at various points in the mountains. Along the Navajo, in both Colorado and New Mexico, are considerable areas of land finely adapted to agriculture, thus far almost entirely neglected by the ranchmen in choosing their locations. Extensive benches, easily irrigated, and abundance of timber are readily found, while along its upper part are clusters of hot sulphur springs of — varying properties. Vegetation is luxuriant, wild berries of different kinds were found abundant, and so attractive is the river, its banks and surroundings, that the southern Utes still assert and reassert their ownership of the valleys which it waters and of which they were almost wholly dispossessed in the location of their new reserve. Upon the Navajo they wished their new agency located, and on its being built upon the Los Pinos, much dissatisfaction resulted. ; Along this stream for a short distance is part of the route for the Chama-Navajo road, the shortest line from Conejos and neighboring points to the west, and when APPENDIX SS. 1767 this road is constructed, which will eventually be done, unless the whole lower San Juan shall retrograde in its present rapid settlement, the valleys of this river and afflu- ents will certainly be located upon and valuable ranches result. THE BLANCO. The next river to the west, the Rio Blanco, or White River, so called from the milky appearance of its waters, can never play,an important part in the agricultural economy of this region. In its upper partis a magnificent valley, butit is only with great diffi- culty and by trail accessible. The descent by the road from the Navajo divide is be- tween and around very steep hills. Following up the river from this point, it is found to be confined by steep mesas or hillsides of abrupt slopes, quite often vertical. The ascent of this stream, traveling of course without a guide, was one of the most difficult trips experienced. Following the river bed from sheer necessity, we were kept therein, and in one day’s march, quite short in miles but apparently long in hardship, the river had to be forded 39 times. While mainly a good current, it was occasion- ally rough from rapids. At one point for several hundred yards large bowlders of granite and other rock blocked the passage-way. They were from 10 to 40 feet in di- ameter, while occasionally was noted one of unusual size, 50 feet by 10 or 15 in diame- ter, rounded, and bearing the mark of glacial action. In avoiding them, the ascents and descents of the steep banks near by caused several accidents of an almost serious nature to the pack-train. Afterward there was observed extending down from the foot of the mountains and along the river a high bench formation, finely timbered, with magnificent grazing. Upon this also were strewn bowlders at intervals, the largest observed being pear shaped, some 70 feet long, and over 40 in height. In the ascent and descent of this stream (in August) the abundance of wild fruit on the hillsides was unusually great, more particularly the service-berries. Fine patches of raspberries, light-red and exceedingly luscious, of gooseberries, and also wild cher- ries were fortunately met with. The Blanco in its upper part flows south and southwest, curving sharply nearly to the west, its mouth in the San Juan being nearly due west from this point. The Navajo in its upper part flows almost due south and nearly parallel to the Blanco, and curves sharply, making also a great beng abruptly to the west, its mouth, being nearly or quite on the same parallel as the bend. The upper waters of the Blanco and Navajo have a striking similarity, each pos- sessing a wide and magnificent valley, separated and inclosed by huge towering mountains from 2,000 to 3,000 feet above them. In the upper part of the Blanco, where the forks unite and form the main stream, the one from the east, in descending from the Cretaceous shales, carries in solution whitish-gray matter in such decided quantities as to impart to the main stream throughout its course that milky appear- ance which is immediately noticed on reaching it. The Upper Blanco was meandered during the season of daily rain and there we hap- pened to witness a most magnificent storm effect about sunset. Heavy rain-storms had prevailed all afternoon upon the mountain tops whose effects were not entirely escaped below. Extending from a meadow on the opposite bank of the river from the camp there arose the grandest double rainbow we ever beheld, reaching up to and capping the summit of the range east and above us, and circling down to the valley on the left, the colors separate and entirely distinct without blending above, and of most surpassing brilliancy. While every one was gazing in admiration at the scene another storm coming swiftly in an opposite direction above the range stopped in its rapid course, suspended above the mountain tops, when the clouds attracted to the highest peak, assumed a funnel shape in their descent. It was a grand indescriba- ble scene in the contrast of the deep inky blackness, the bright sunlight illuminating the peak below, and the gorgeous hues of the rainbow resting upon the mountain’s center. At the big bend of the Blanco, ascending the river, the valley widens from 500 yards to over a mile, increasing its width farther up to one and a half and two, which continues for a distance of nearly 4 miles. Like that of the Navajo, this is a very beautiful spot, of which the beaver holds possession, the largest part, nearly or quite level, being filled with willow undergrowth and beaver dams. Continuing on, cut- ting our way as the valley narrowed through almost impenetrable masses of aspen (Populus tremuloides), the stream at the mouth of a large tributary from the west presented an almost impassable barrier in the impediments presented. The lofty mountains inclosing the valley approached and almost met, high walls from either side running to the water’s edge. From either side an immense wall of vertical rock extended to the stream, its former center broken and eroded by the water, leaving a perfect gateway, through which the river dashed over bowlders, huge logs, and high masses of drift, serious obstacles to passage, the ascent being made only with great difficulty. Farther on some side walls of red sandstone were worn into 1768 REPORT OF THE CHIEF OF ENGINEERS. most fantastic shapes; bowlders and gravel of all kinds, including volcanic rock, fill- ing the bed of the stream everywhere. At several points near the caiion’s mouth, clinging to the bits of earth on side rocks, were bushes of red raspberries, the largest and most luscious seen anywhere, with quan- tities of service and goose berries, wild cherries being found in the valley below. The Blanco is here a clear and beautiful stream ; no ranchman has at any point above the road-crossing penetrated its land. While its upper valley is far handsomer for several miles than that of the Navajo, the preferred ground of the red man, on account of its being almost inaccessible from all sides no Indian has entered it, although they swarm in that of the former in search of game and wild berries, the latter their most important article of summer diet. THE SAN JUAN. Upon the Rio San Juan (signifying the river of Saint John), the next river to the west, and the great drainage channel of the country, agriculture has made less progress upon the upper river than upon the lower. The Pagosa Hot Springs were a bone of contention between Indians and whites, and later have been among the whites them- selves, until the executive order of the President declaring them a reservation. To the east, west, and northeast of the springs, at an elevation not exceeding 7,200 feet on both sides of the San Juan lies within a few miles a large area comprising many thousands of acres, which, with irrigation, would be very valuable for farming pur- poses. As yet but a few log cabins appear, and further no step has been taken to hold or improve the land. Many herds of sheep are driven to and fro through this region, nearly all tarrying at Pagosa Springs, up to which all the sheep are driven, the Mexi- can herders stating that the waters thereof are highly beneficial to the animals. — Some 10 or 11 miles above the springs, upon the west fork of the river, locally so called, several persons have located and were at work upon their cabins when we were there encamped. Bordered by high mountains, over 1,500 feet upon one side and approaching 2,500 on the other, at an elevation of about 7,600 feet, this valley con- tains a large acreage of land finely adapted to agricultural purposes. The ranchmen have already provided an outlet by a passable wagon road of their own construction, connecting with the county road at Pagosa. The San Juan and it tributaries all cafion in their upper parts, and above this elevation there are no valuable spots worthy of mention in this connection. f The most fertile region is along the lower part of this river, including the section from the east of the Las Animas down, the richest and most valuable land of the San Juan being soil of New Mexico. It is rapidly being located upon since the opening of the Jicarilla Apache reservation, and settlers will soon fill the entire area to the Navajo reserve. The climate of this region differs most radically from that of the river above, being hot and arid away from the banks of the streams, the vegetation being chiefly of the sage and cacti order, with pifion upon the mesasides. Little of a winter season occurs, the elevation being in the main embraced between 5,500 feet and 5,100 in altitude. Strong alkaline constituents are present in the soil and from the great denudation dur- ing the rainy season and the high stages of water which occur, its banks are each time resupplied with fertilizing elements in great abundance. ‘Possessed, therefore, in this latitude of the mild climate of central New Mexico, several hundred miles to the south, the fine agricultural capabilities and the range of production of this region may at once be conjectured. Beyond, still farther down the San Juan, the Navajoes are industrious farmers, corn being the main product, and as a sample of the crops they obtain, a handsome ear was brought back. The crop was raised upon one of the bot- tom holes along the San Juan, cultivated without irrigation, watered only during a high stage of the river. The corn tassels were of the height of a rider’s head upon horseback. THE RIO NUTRIA. The Rio Nutria is the next upon the west, and a tributary to the Piedra. The name of this stream upon the maps seems to be erroneous as we were informed by Colonel Pfeiffer, a former agent of the Ute Indians, and a resident of this region for many years; that it was originally Notre Francis, being so called after a Frenchman, who with two Mexicans, was killed by the Indians near its mouth and there burned. Their graves are situated upon the mesa bank of the Piedra, overlooking the mouth of its tribu- tary. This stream, more properly a creek than a river, possesses but a very limited acreage adapted to farming purposes. But one ranch in the locality is worthy of mention, that of Messrs. Meyer, Stolzheimer & Co., near a spring hard by the stream, and at the edge of the Indian reservation. Their investments are wholly in the shape of stock and in- clude some 2,300 head of cattle, 8,000 sheep, and 73 horses. This firm has a sort of treaty or agreement with Ignacio’s bands, three tribes of the Utes, who permit their stock to range over their land receiving in return at various intervals quantities of the choicest beef. APPENDIX SS. . 1769 THE RIO PIEDRA. The Rio Piedra or Stony River, is most aptly sonamed. From the junction of its forks or the main tributaries in the plateau region to the north the distance by the river is about 20 miles to the bridge-crossing on the road. In this, it descends from 7,800 to 6,400 feet and the land it drains is viewed in its agricultural economy wholly barren and worthless. Its cafion is steep and inaccessible. In the ascent from the road over the steep mesas and rocks near and along the river to the plateau above, Col- onel Pfeiffer accompanied by Indian guides was occupied over 5 days in going the dis- tance of 20 miles by the river.. The upper region we reached by avoiding these horri- ble mesas, by'a long detour to the east near the head of the Nutria. At the point where the waters of the Piedra and affluents begin their erosion of the plateau result- ing in the cafion along its course, the descent is abrupt, the rocks eroded assuming fan- tastic shapes, frequently chimney-like. The descent from the surface over the underlying strata to the harder formation below is very rapid, and in a short distance the river has descended to 500 and 1,000 feet below its level on the plateau surface, the hills on its right bank being here some- what higher than on the left. At the entrance of the canon it is very narrow, the walls vertical, and occasionally overhanging stones dropped from above, falling into the water below. The area above its cafion, comprising the valley of the Weeminu- che and the Middle and Southern Forks of the Piedra, with the plateau region to the east, is of large extent, and not greatly protected by the gradual slopes to the summit of the range on the north. They are only valuable in their relation to the grazing interests of the region. In the aggregate there are over 40,000 acres on the water-shed of this river that are of the highest value for the rearing of cattle and sheep, being all superior summer and fall ranges. A dearth of water near the head of the Nutria exists, where lies a large additional area. In the valley of the Weeminuche, the west- ern tributary of the Piedra, a most lovely section, luxuriant grasses are passed over, which were fully 3 feet in height. At the point where the road from the east reaches this river, altitude about 6,400 feet, it follows up its bank in a bottom for 3 miles, crossing above by a bridge; upon the opposite side the bottom continues for half a mile farther. This was the only place observed where a farm on even a small scale could be located. It has already been taken up by several ranchmen; no land was cultivated, cabins only erected. - Descending the river the mesa formation continues, and the bottom is occupied wholly by the stream, its bed, and the thickly-grown underbrush along its course from wall to wall of the out-cropping sandstone which could but very rarely be ascended, it being in general vertical. The valley of the Nutria, where it empties into the Piedra, is the longest noted upon the former stream, being 200 yards in width, and about 800 yards in length, with fair grazing, beyond which, on rising land, is sage-brush. The Piedra side is barren. This valley is of triangular shape, but scarcely of any value for a ranch. The hills upon the left rise sharply to 500 feet, closing in upon those on the opposite bank of the Piedra, which here takes a course slightly west of south to its mouth in the San Juan. High hills, fully 700 feet, apparently veritable ‘“‘hogbacks,” steep and pifion-clad, in long, successive files as far as the eye can reach, close to the waters of the Piedra upon every side; the valley is contracted to the nature of the caiion above, and the outlook has no appearance save that of desolation. On account of the impassable nature of the mesa region bordering the Piedra, the . road makes a long detour to the Los Pinos, the air-line distance apart on the line of the Indian reserve being 14 miles, that by the wagon road 20, taking a natural route along. a tributary stream. Its width between hills is from 150 to 300 yards, with larger open- ings occasionally for 6 miles. Ata distance of 4 miles from the Piedra is a very pretty bottom, a fine grassy park surrounded by high rocky walls containing 50 acres, beautiful agricultural land of easy irrigation. No one had there located, but it bore marks of having for some time been occupied as an Indian camp. This was the only spot of any size between the Piedra and the summit of the divide whose altitude is 7,010 feet, and distance 7.6 miles. - Descending, on the Pinos watershed, the country is more prepossessing and better adapted for ranches. The hills bordering the road are of a similar nature, ‘‘hog- backs” with scrub-oak predominating, well grassed, the pines being chiefly spruce. Farther down the hills are lower, the country opens, small valleys 150 to 200 and 300 yards appear, and along the streams, the profusion of undergrowth and abundance of wild hops attest the fruitfulness of the soil if cultivated. Several fine cabins were being erected, corrals established, and areas of land fenced in, to be cultivated in addition to the more important interests of cattle raising; at several points new set- tlers were just arriving. It is worthy offnote that while large quantities of service-berries, cherries, and other wild fruits were observed in traveling between these rivers, they were not nearly as 1770 REPORT OF THE CHIEF OF ENGINEERS. far matured as those at and about Pagosa and other points of a higher elevation and farther east than here. RIO DE LOS PINOS. The Rio de los Pinos (River of the Pines) received during last summer a remarkable emigration. Its upper waters are in the terrible quartzite region, and the ascent is fraught with danger to man and beast. One of the party was seriously injured and narrowly escaped with his life in an accident caused by his mule slipping and losing his foothold on the bare quartzite over which the trail passed. The large forests about the central part of the river were the origin of its name. Its west fork, or the Valle- cito (the Stream of Small Valleys), rises in the same wonderful geological formation. It contains a large and handsome park near its mouth, and several tiny ones above. These valleys both contain magnificent pasturage, are 7,500 to 7,700 feet in altitude, and, with the contrast of the brilliant red of the rocky hills inclosing them and the long lines of level green below, are very beautiful. Beyond and above rise lofty peaks of quartzite towering to 4,000 to 5,000 feet, with snow-covered tops, magnificent, grand, and apparently inaccessible, as was afterward found to be almost the case. Below the forks of the river there is an area for several miles of 600 yards in width, increasing to about 1,200 at their junction. Above, on the Pinos, are detached, park- like areas, the first we met being 600 yards in width, 100 yards upon the west bank, 500 upon the east; the hills, from 800 to 1,500 feet, after circling and closing ab-. ruptly on the latter side upon the river, again receded. Again for nearly 4 miles they once more recede upon the east, until we find another park of a mile in width. This latter is the finest and handsomest area of the whole section; the mountains almost meet, and seemingly offer insuperable obstacles to a direct ascent of the river. A trail here passes to the right and around the mountains, reaching the Los Pinos miles above at its headwaters; itis traveled with much less difficulty than that through the cafion. Beyond this there is a cafion with a width of 400 yards extending for about 4 miles, when the mountains close to the width of the stream alone. There are no loca- tions in any of these parks, above which no arable land occurs. On the Vallecito there is no area above the large park near its mouth at all worthy of mention. This river, it may be noted, is remarkable in that during the last 13 miles of its course no tributary whatever, save that from two small springs not worthy of note, is received from the mountains to the east, numbers of streams coming from the west. In other words, the mountain slopes of the divide which separates it from the Los Pinos are almost vertical, being terribly steep upon their western sides, while upon the other they are more gradual to the Pinos. The general shape of this park or valley is of a rude diamond. In the upper part fully a mile is taken up by a large colony of beaver-dams, in whose waters are merged the entire river. The largest of these covers nearly 4 acres of water-surface, grassy slopes fringed by pine forest being upon either side. From the large beaver-dams to the south the valley rapidly widens, increasing in about 4 miles from 600 to 2,500 yards in width. From the beaver-dam to the southern end of the ridge in which the divide of the Los Pinos watershed terminates there is an area in the Vallecito Valley of 2,600 acres, including a small loss by beaver-dams, of which 1,350 is magnificent pasturage, the balance of the bottom from the mountain edges being pine-timbered ; from this to the junction of the two rivers the area, taking the width of both valleys, of which the Vallecito is the wider, is 400 acres more, of which 350 is clear and open grazing, the remaining 50 of the valley being timbered. Throughout the park the pasturage is everywhere good; all of this is from 7,600 to 7,700 feet in altitude. We have in the aggregate a total area of Vallecito land alone of nearly 3,000 acres, about half of which is pasturage of the finest kind. Below the junction of the forks and down the river to where the valley narrows, there‘is an area, lying mainly on the east bank, of 1,400 acres in the bottom, over three-fourths of which is open grass-land; the balance is covered with pine timber, extending to the base of the mountains bordering the valley and up itssides, The bordering hills are 800 feet high on the left bank, some 200 less on the right, being lower to the south. Not a single cabin was built or location for agricultural purposes made anywhere in this valley, nor were any herds of stock seen above the Florida trail. ‘ Shortly below the southern end of the valley last mentioned the trail from the Rio Florida reaches-the Pinos and is merged in that along the river. The trail descending: the Los Pinos here crosses, and we follow down upon the east or left bank. ha: The bottom on this side is more open, the hills closing upon the other; at some points they are here nearly half a mile distant, closing in to the river toward the south. From this point to the bridge at the county road, about 8 miles below, thence down to the line of the Indian reserve, a little over 4miles, emigrants have flocked to the east- ern bank and located upon all the available land along the river. Above the bridge APPENDIX SS. 1771 were noted six ranches in all; the upper had but a patch cultivated, and were settlers ofthe spring. They were building anew and larger cabin, and when passed had been busily occupied in fighting the grass-fires about their home, kindled by the vagrant Indians, who had stopped to threaten them in case they did not leave and had left the fire as memento of their friendship. The smoke was still ascending from the charred ground; the fire had extended to the forests on the hills, over which it raged for sey- eral days and spread for a long distance. Of the next three ranches, all locations merely save one, there were but two build- ings finished, the incomers living in regular tents, and improvised ones of wagon- sheets; about 9 acres were cultivated, their stock consisting of 12 horses and ‘20 head of cattle, in a rough corral near by, with 20 milch-cows grazing upon the hills. Below, between this and the bridge, were four or five cabins with corrals and fencing of pine, the river-bottom not here exceeding 400 yards on the eastern side, of which but about 6 acres were being tilled. The elevation is but little over 7,000 feet, and the vege- tation was of a rank order close to the river-bank, where the settlers were cutting the marshy grasses and heavy masses of sedge and stacking for winter use. Considerable quantities of arable land are found upon the western bank of the river, but the great rush for the little space unoccupied in this neighborhood was toward the eastern bank, and chiefly that from the bridge to the reservation line, about 4 miles to the south. Immediately below the road crossing of the river the bank is high and timbered, the bottom opening out beyond. The first ranchman, located 1} miles below the bridge, a recent comer (in August), was living ina tent. The river-bottom is here about 100 yards wide and grazing excellent. At the distance of 1,200 yards beyond was a cabin with five wagons and tents about, accommodating three families who possessed 20 horses and 175 head of stock; of the land claimed 14 acres were being cultivated, their locations being along the river near by. Within 900 yards beyond were three more cabins, the owners possessing a corral, fine fencing of pine timber and stock; 5 acres were planted, the bottom being here 1,200 yards wide. A thousand yards below was a ranchman with cabin, corral, and outfit complete, possessing 200 head of stock. Some 800 yards lower are two fine cabins, an inclosure well fenced of 1,500 feet by 600, including a well-built corral and 210 head of stock; altogether it was a first-class ranch, evidently a late emigrant, as 10 acres iat of standard products had been planted. The bottom has here a width of 1,500 yards. About 1,100 yards beyond another location was being established, the dwelling being a ents the foundation only of the cabin was completed, no land as yet under culti- vation. __ Beyond and about the same distance is the last of the ranches on the river, that of Mr. R. O. Bean, which was examined in detail in order to obtain some reliable data touching the value of the Los Pinos land in the agricultural economy of the San Juan. He has a farm, 25 horses, and 150 head of stock. Settling there in the spring of 1876, he possessed in September, 1877, the most advanced and finest ranch on the river, if not in the whole lower country, surpassed, if at all, by none save one in the Animas Park. To this fact, to this palpable demonstration of the fertility of the soil, we attribute the crowding of ranchmen to his immediate neighborhood, as emigrants to the country are in general at their start undecided as to exact destination. It usu- ally remains for some man of energy and grit to develop the possibilities of a new region. About 160 acres were fenced in, and rather than be deemed unneighborly to the In- dians, whose reservation lay below, and whose land was very rich, he went down the river as far as he deemed proper, and then located. He went, in fact, so far that the Indian agent, hearing the fact from his wards, paid Bean a visit and required him to move his fence some little distance upstream. The reservation line now passes the river-bank at his lower fence corner. His buildings are substantial, and 40 acres of land were found under cultivation. There was a rich crop of wheat, corn, rye, and oats, a trial patch of millet; and among the vegetables were noticed cabbages, beets, onions, turnips, various kinds of melons, cucumbers, radishes, peppers, tomatoes, pease, beans, and potatoes. Specimens of wheat, oats, millet, &c., including a turnip, were brought to the East, scarcely as a curiosity, but rather as indubitable proof of the ex- cessive richness of the soil of some of the San Juan, equaling that of Kansas. The turnip aforesaid, possessing but two months’ growth, was 8 inches high, 284 inches in circumference, and weighed 8} pounds. The wheat yield was from 25 to 30 bushels per acre, while a small lot at the river- bank was estimated to reach 50 to 60 bushels. The average was, however, 28 bushels at least. Everything was unusually large and of almost immense size; wild sugar- cane and hops were growing high up among the rank vegetation at the river-bank, indicative of the resources of the soil. . Tn 1876, no frost had been felt until October, but the night previous to the visit (September 8), which was very cold, a heavy storm raging in the mountains had sent a blighting cold, which had left its mark on the vines of tomatoes, &c. re REPORT OF THE CHIEF OF ENGINEERS. The precipitation, it was stated, during the rainy season, which had gone by, was here very slight. As an experiment some of the corn had not been irrigated; it was but 2 to 3 feet high, while the other, which had been watered, was more than twice as tall. The chief cause for complaint was the immense number of aphides or plant-lice, with which the cabbage was particularly afflicted. Of possible import as to the value of a farm in this region, it may be mentioned that while the price of everything was lower than earlier or much later, butter was 25 cents per pound; cabbages, 25 cents per head; onions (very large), 50 cents per dozen, &c. ; the price at Animas City, during the winter previous, being per pound, onions 124 cents, beets 10, cabbage 6, and potatoes 23. As must be always done, the crops were produced by irrigation. The ditch leading from the river is ? mile long, and cost him, not including his own time and labor, $60; a most economical and safe investment. At this point the river-bottom is a mile across, averaging for about 6 miles below, on the reserve, 1; miles in width; including the valley of Beaver Creek, a tributary of Pinos near by, the total width is between 4 and 5 miles. The river at this point is diverted to the southwest by a great mesa for 3 or 4 miles, after which it flows again in a southerly direction. This mesa formation is a group of rugged hills, from 300 to 500 feet in height, pinon-clad, with dwarfed spruce, which upon the opposite side of the river reappears in small mesas or hillocks of equal height, crowned with large rocks; the superposed Cretaceous sandstone denuded and bare attests the great erosion that formed the valley below. All of this portion is looked upon with envious eyes by the emigrant passing on to the west, and as soon as the country is opened to settlement by the removal of the Utes, their inevitable fate and merely a question of time, the settlers will flock thereto and it will be immediately occupied. : About 8 miles below, the middle road crosses the river going northwest to the Florida; above this point the sketch given in Plate 2 was taken to represent the gen- eral appearance and contour lines of the mountain ranges to the north and northwest, abruptly terminating at a point near the western horizon. Near here and above were observed quantities of stock, belonging above the reserva- tion line. The ranchmen allow them to range at will; dumb brutes are no respecters of air-lines, and quietly proceed to range over and eat upon forbidden ground, to the indignation of the possessors thereof. The land has here the almost semi-tropical look of the soil of central and lower New Mexico, arid and parched earth—magnificent material for home-made bricks or “adobes.” The vegetation ischiefly of dry and crooked sage from 3 to 4 feet high, and the prickly-pear cactus, covering the earth away from the stream. The immediate bottom of 150 yards or more upon either side possesses high grasses and is thickly tim- bered with cottonwood and undergrowth. Thence upon either side extends a bench, 1 and 2 miles in width, receding and rising from the river, sparsely grassed, into which, from the higher elevations, come low, wide hollows or subvalleys, of the nature of gen- tle arroyos. Everywhere the pebbly covered ground shows the lines of drainage and former flows of water, before erosion of this lower bed had been completed. About 5 miles below the crossing of the middle road the width of the land of “bench” character is from 4 to 5 miles, all of which is susceptible of irrigation. The river for the last 8 miles has a considerable fall, though not sufficient to be denoted as rapid. Some 12 miles below the road-crossing, rise up lofty mesas in close succession, over 1,000 feet in height, closing in upon the river. Its whole strength is now confined to cutting its way to the San Juan below in a narrow gorge, through the high interposed plateau of Cretaceous rock. The agricultural value of the river is changed; its canon bottom is narrow, confined, wholly unproductive and inhospitable; the entire region is of black forbidding appearance, and a scene of utter desolation as are the true mesa formations of New Mexico. The outline sketches accompanying and given on Plates 2, 3, and 4, showing a view of the Needle Mountains or Quartzite Crags and La Plata Mountains to the north and northwest and the outlook to the south of the great plateau, will aid in forming a conception of the contrasts in this region of the San Juan, a por- tion of a great basin which must prove in future one of the most valuable fields for ag- riculture. From the Rio de los Pinos to the Rio Florida, 134 miles, the road passes over a sec- tion of as little interest in an agricultural point of view as it is devoid of novel and startling features of landscape. Following a natural route between low hills, higher on the Florida water-shed than on the Los Pinos slopes, the road winds considerably through a line of grassy meadows from 400 yards in width at the point of departing - from the Los Pinos bottom to 250 and less as we ascend, becoming more narrow upon the Florida water-shed. The timber of the region is cedar, in some cases of large size, with scrub-oak, a predominant feature in hillside vegetation. Three ranches are all that were passed en route, the first nearly a mile from the river, the next 1} miles beyond, both locations of hay-cutting chiefly. The last and finest, where we noted quite a ‘‘fine” shingle-roof, glass-windows, and out-buildings, a novelty among the localranches, is 44 miles from the Florida, east of the divide, occupying a grassy Plate 2. OuTLINE SKETCH on the / Sie ce los Pinos to the North and North-west, showing the Needle Mts. and the La Plat aRange terminating in south at Parrot Gity Station: Above Cros sing of the Middle Road. “UPIO hr LYMOOTT — pohtea, [ SHOIIVDJAA) Atf} JS Of 0) SOV Y byy auf) fy waMoUs “pPpwoy ATPPIN LO P8801) MOJEG fC Lium).1marw piv eAvqgY JaaJ YOE ‘SOW 807 IP ORY AQ U0. Yes euNng “ “ayqno sy huagyooT ‘SaaS SNOIIDIEL) aY7 JO Sosa braMmoYys -ipvoar app eyZ Jo hurssot) Mojag-FE eum) aoqv 43af-00G PUD VYfri AY} 02 SAIN P'SOUI_T $0) ap og BY? UO YIpayG eurjyng ee Se ee ree SS ~ m A NY a S . i \\ Se | aS IE TE LL TT NE OSES SE APPENDIX SS. 73 bottom; the road here abruptly turns to the north and so continues for a mile, when it as sharply pursues its former course tothe west. The top of the Florida divide is but 14 miles from the river, the rocky hills being closer and steeper than upon the other water- shed. A beautiful spring is found about a thousand yards from the river, and along the right bank of itsstream the road descends. ' Here for the first time is noticed any work of importance, excepting the bridges on the road upon which toll is collected. It is pos- sible that half, if not all, of the entire amount expended in its construction is annually received into the coffers of the road company. : THE RIO FLORIDA. The Rio Florida signifies the River of Flowers or flowery banks. Taking the cue from eminent and scientific explorers who have gone before, one is inclined to doubt the fitness of things on reaching it at the road-crossing. Having observed, however, as we traveled, the peculiar adaptation of local names, whether of Spanish or Indian origin, and having also heard that the Indians haunted it as they did the Navajo, we were inclined to expect a lovelystream. Disappointed at first sight, the portion above appeared the more beautiful for that reason. Steep hills, 350 to 500 feet, increasing in height to the north, here confine the river, a modest stream of scarcely over 30 feet. Boldly protruding on the opposite side is traced a lignitic deposit, which was utilized by our blacksmith during our vicinity thereto. At a distance of 12 miles up the stream was a handsome park containing 45 acres of fine grazing land, well timbered, where a cabin stood. Above this was another, small- er but more open, where another ranchman had located, the hillsides being almost precipitous, and covered with scrub-oak ; thence up the stream successively are low rolling hills within the river depression, above which appear again level bottom widths of 350 to 400 yards, increasing to 600, the contents of the parks being 15, 30, and 50 acres of fine grass-land, susceptible of irrigation. Below where the general surface was 40 feet above the river, came in from the west a tributary from the Animas watershed, whose valley in extent over 1,000 yards disclosed its bounding walls of the brightest of red sandstones. About 7 miles up the river a trail passes due east to the Los Pinos as already men- tioned, 4 miles in length. The evidences of Indian camps were abundant at this point. Beyond, upon the east bank, after passing closely timbered groves of pine and aspen, a pretty park opened before us. Occasionally heavily wooded but chiefly open, the valleys succeed one another, increasing in width from 150 yards to 600, of magnificent grazing, alternating upon the river-sides, below which the true valley appears to 800 and 1,000 yards in width.. The brilliant red of the towering sandstone cliffs, a sheer vertical for over 600 feet, increasing to the north, the stretches of great pine to the grassy bottom below, long lines of meadow green sloping to the willow-fringed banks of the river, with an abundant flora, were witnesses to the stream’s appropriate name. Deer (C. macrotis Say) in the wood, wild turkey (M. gallopavo Barte).and grouse (T. obscurus Say) in the grass and trees, and trout (S. fontinalis Mitch.) in the river, did not lessen its at- tractions. | As we continued in extended opens where the river has spread to a width of 40 feet, about 6 inches deep, the girdling mountains rose abruptly ahead upon either side nearly 3,000 feet on the east, perhaps 2,000 on the west, meeting beyond on the upper stream as links in the great chain of ‘Needles.” The scenery was magnificent, and involuntary praise was heard from even our colored cook. The elevation of these bottoms extended from 7,600 to 8,000 feet, and nowhere has any one located. ’ Nature, lovely and prolific here, is as desolate ahead. An abrupt cafion region fol- lows closely upon the last of the parks. Over precipices, down immense mountain walls, often inaccessible, dashing over bowlders reft in its struggling descent, its way clogged by huge timber and drift, the stream has worn its way; emerging from a box cafion, with perpendicular walls of 100 feet without, the river passes forth from desolation and war above to peace and quiet below. The close proximity of the high mountains does not augur well for agriculture here, indicating short season and severe and early frosts. The portion of the river-bottom well adapted therefor is limited and near the reservation line. __ From the Pagosa road-crossing the transition from the upper region is complete. The bottom is, tor 4 or 5 miles, from 200 to 300 yards wide, being contracted and ir- regularly sloping, in which the stream winds from side to side; much of the land being too high above the water for irrigation renders agriculture impracticable. Here passes the middle road from Animas City to Tierra Amarilla, following the river down for more than 9 miles. The river’s width and volume has increased to 50 feet with a foot depth ; its fringe is of cottonwood timber, with pifion upon the hills that skirt both sides, being 300 feet high on the east and about half that on the right bank. Six miles below the road-crossing there is a widening of the river-bottom to 600 yards. On account of the reservation line but 2 miles of this wider valley is avail- 1774 REPORT OF THE CHIEF OF ENGINEERS. able for settlement. Three fine ranches, well fenced, with good irrigating ditches, appear, the lower close to the line of the reserve. The two latter are chiefly devoted to cattle interests, each having about 500 head of stock. Upon the former were ob- served 10 acres of fine wheat harvested, and upon the latter over 15 acres of hay. Here, and below where the valley widens to 800 yards upon the reserve, are the best agricultural points. This is, like the Pinos, in the great basin; the timber growth of cottonwood is here, however, much more scant. Sage-brush covers the land reaching out from the imme- diate banks; the level is 6 to 12 feet below that of the general valley, and wood is abundant. The hills upon either side have their steep slopes covered with pinion; their tops are chiefly clothed in sage and cacti, pifon, and serub-oak also at intervals appearing. Pebbles and stones, indicating action, are everywhere bestrown, showing what vast areas were formerly submerged. The cattle of the settlers encroach upon the Indian land, and good grazing patches in the bottom were few and far between. Within the reservation the valley spreads out to 1,800 and 2,000 yards of a fine agri- cultural appearance with an alkaline tendency. Nearly all of this might be easily irrigated. The mesas below this point advance and recede, limiting the area along the river until the great barrier of the region is encountered. Here the valley per se is at an end, the river being turned sharply to the west on meeting the huge Cretaceous sand- stones. This massive mountain of the Upper Cretaceous series, if it may be so termed, rises up almost vertically fully 1,200 to 1,500 feet. Upon eroded strata, on the gradual accumulation of sufficient detritus, the pifon appeared, and between the lines the yellow sandstone apparently rises in successive ridges, from which great blocks, de- tached, have fallen to the water below. They clog the way and, between, the stream winds slow and sluggish with difficulty on. The aspect here is barren in the extreme. Here and there a narrow ravine or dry arroyo enters from the north, down which are well-worn trails of cattle; high reeds and bushes conceal the water’s flow; the rocks intrude so closely as to almost render passage on the trail impossible, while the vegetation is that of the usual order, befit- ting the general aridness. A few openings farther west and above its mouth are but oases in a sterile place. RIO DE LAS ANIMAS. The Rio de las Animas signifies the River of the Souls, in which appellation occurs the ellipsis of Perdidas (‘‘lost’’). : While its signification is the ‘‘ River of the Lost Souls,” or Purgatory, it is neither so mapped by geographers nor thus locally known, the Purgatory of Colorado being a tributary of the Arkansas, in the southeastern part of the State. Of all the arable land on the river the sections in which agriculture has made any notable progress may be known as the upper and lower. The upper part, where it has received attention more extensively than any other portion of the San Juan, is wholly included in that magnificent valley known as the Animas Park, the finest agri- cultural section, as it is the loveliest park, in the San Juan. Except the Florida, the largest tributary of the Animas is Hermosa Creek, its name, “beautiful,” being not inaptly given. Eight and a half miles below, near the mouth of Junction Creek, a town has sprung up on the right or west bank of the river, called Animas City, not located upon any Wheeler or Hayden map, and therefore of recent birth. Upon Hermosa Creek is the town of Hermosa, above which, about 4 miles, is a collection of cabins, located upon some of the maps as Animas City, now deserted. In mentioning, therefore, the above name, reference is intended to the town below, alive and in full existence, and not to the dead one above. The most attractive feature of the Animas Park is the appearance of the red sand- stones noted previously on the Los Pinos and the Vallecito, at their union, and on the Florida, but here more extensively exposed, for some distance appearing with a south- ern dip and a thickness approaching 1,000 feet. These sandstones we presume pertain to the Triassic period, no reference to their geological age and position having been anywhere seen. They appear within the Animas Park, to the north of which along the river are exposures indicating the pressure of large areas of the Carboniferous formations of the Coal-Measure period.* The sandstones are of a brilliant brick red, at points aggregate perhaps a thousand feet in thickness, and slope to the south, dipping to that horizon about 20°. Their southern inclination and the character of the overlying sedimentary rocks appearing to the south undoubtedly so refer them. On both the Florida and the Animas, sec- tions of superposed strata carry us into the sandstones and beyond to the overlying. shales pertaining to the middle series of the Cretaceous period. *F. Hawn, geologist, Lieutenant Ruffner’s Reconnaissance in the Ute Country, 1873, p. 83. APPENDIX SS. 1775 Both upon the Animas, to a slight extent, and more largely upon the Florida, occur exposures of the lignites belonging to the second Cretaceous series, the upper and later sandstones of the period capping the higher mesa exteuding across the river below Animas City. The handsomest outlook is from the lower part of the park, whose anticlinal axis is to the east of the meridional line and where the brilliant coloring most permanently occupies the vista of the valley. The eroded strata are displayed in their perfect parallelism and original position, save their southern dip, resulting from subsidence or geological change of underlying strata. Rising in successive terraces, from summit to base, denudation has attracted vegetation with the passage of time, until from the long grassy bottoms and great meadows of the park the hills, no longer vertical, rise up like the steps of some giant stairway, the side or rise most brilliant red, above as bright a green. In no other valley has Nature at once been so lavish with large areas of fruitful land and displayed so beautifully the hand of the Great Architect. Not even the most uneducated person is insensible to landscape beauty; much, therefore, if not all, of the best land of the valley has been claimed and located upon. Since returning from the reconnaissance, there has been observed a statement in a report of one of the early exploring parties that traversed the valley, which is repeated by another, that the arable land of the park ‘‘does not amount to more than three or four thousand acres.” This is most certainly an error in computation or the result of but casual observations. In a preliminary report* made soon after returning from the field, during the past winter, touching upon this valley, it was stated that ‘‘with over ten thousand acres of tillable land I found, last fall, the amount under actual cultivation to be less than one-tenth of the total.” Careful computation of field-notes has not served to percep- tibly change the amount. Instructions touching the acreage of arable and timber land being included in the ' orders for the field, observations in detail were made during each mile of the park for determination of total area, the quantity timbered, the amount of arable land, includ- ing the possibility of irrigation, and the area of grazing, the number of ranches and the quantity of land belonging thereto under actual cultivation. An area easily irrigated and in all respects arable, equal to that above stated to be the contents of the entire park, may be found in its lower 4 miles, or from Animas City extending to the north to the ranch of Mr. Lamb. This would be practically proven if lying in sections of high cultivation like the agricultural valleys of Mary- Jand and Pennsylvania. From Animas City to Hermosa the amount is more than doubled. At this point there is the greatest width of fertile land in the valley, since the valley of the creek, 550 yards at its mouth, should be included. From Hermosa the valley decreases more than half in width to the mineral springs above, a group upon the east bank, possessing both soda and sulphur constituents, covering an acre of area. From Hermosa to this point were found about 1,200 acres ad- ditional. North of the springs nothing was calculated as belonging to the arable area, although several ranches were observed with patches as great as 2 acres under culti- vation near by. Deducting a fair percentage and the amount of timbered ground of the valley, an acreage between Animas City and Hermosa of 8,224, with 36 ranches noted upon the right or west bank, 33 upon the east, and 710 acres belonging thereto under cultivation; between Hermosa and the mineral springs, 1,237, with 10 ranches upon the west bank, 9 upon the east, and 106 acres tilled; near Old Animas City, 6 ranches upon the west side, 3 upon the east, and 3 acres under cultivation. This total does not include the arable land at the mouth and along Junction Creek, where 100 acres in crops were observed, nor that of Lightner Creek, or on the bottom of the Ani-— mas itself between that and Animas City, all of which forms a proper part of the acreage of this section. This sum, with that above the town already given, will somewhat exceed the aggregate that was earlier given. The general state of the agriculture of this section, the finest of the San Juan, may _ be considered as but little advanced beyond an embryo condition. The ranchmen themselves may be divided into three general classes. The acquisition of fortunes more rapidly than are realized from the tillage of the soil are primarily the attractions to the majority of men entering a mining region. The necessity of a winter home, with the approach of the season too long and severe to remain at the altitude of the mineral belts, forces some men to locate a ranch; these may be said to constitute the first class. Others seek farming as a livelihood, for bare sustenance, or, as they term it, for ‘‘grub stakes” when their hopes of ‘‘finds” of silver and gold have vanished, while the third and last kind of settlers are those whose days have been passed in farm industry and who come to locate, to farm, and to work. The first class put up a cabin; oftentimes four logs are simply crossed and sworn to as a foundation by which to locate their claim. No improvement of the land is ever * Ex. Doc. No. 66, House of Representatives, Forty-fifth Congress, second session, p. 36. 1776 REPORT OF THE CHIEF OF ENGINEERS. made, as the owner is absent at his mines in the laboring season and returns in the winter only to live and hold his place. , The second class are too lazy to work, or shiftless when they do commence; they are satisfied with bare sustenance without realizing the full value of their land. The third class are bona-fide farmers; they labor as farmers must do all the world over, and find their ground, the gift of a beneficent government, a source of wealth ere long. No questions were asked and no inquiries made thereon, but from personal observa- tions it is presumed that representatives of all three classes have locatted in the Animas JOAN SVUITI “epliony LN ~ 5 =r — {9) 2 Park. Too little time has elapsed for the com- pletion of ditches and other things incident to and connected with thorough and systematic ir- rigation, but, unless greatly in error, the settlers of the third class are believed to be in a minor- itv. Save that little necessary to establish and hold their claims, the ranchmen, in general, have made no improvements worthy of mention on their land. A beautiful waterfall on the west side a num- ber have utilized, and draw the supplies for their main irrigating-ditches, a few miles in length, to their several places. ’ Several of the ranches, however, make a good showing in an agricultural point of view, one of which, about 4miles above Animas City, and the property, we were informed, of Mr. J. V. Lamb, deserves especial mention for the fine appearance of the farm, with all the usual outbuildings and external signs of thrift and comfort noticeable in one of the Eastern States. Below the Animas Park the agricultural devel- opment of the country has only begun. That portion of the valley of this stream, of the La Plata, and of the San Juan itself, situated in New Mexico, and lying east of the Navajo Reser- vation, was formally included in and set aside for the Jicarilla Apache Reserve. The Indians having never been placed thereon, and never de-: ~ siring it as a home, the land was finally opened to white settlement, and a heavy immigration for that section set in during the past spring, sum- mer, and fall. While the amount of land under tillage in Sep- tember last was inconsiderable, from all things observed, itis more than probable that the acreage during the season of 1878 will be large, unless the ranchmen should be deterred from planting full crops by the threats and presumed disturbances of the Indians, who regard with unfriendly eye any approach to their own lands. The soil of these river-banks is very rich and capable of returning large crops for the labor ex- pended; the timber growth, high sage-brush, and other vegetation indicate a most promising agricultural section. The altitude itself in each case points to a large and varied field for the planter’s selection; below the line of the Ute Reserve, which is also the boundary of Colorado, the La Plata lies at an elevation of 5,600 to 5,300 at its mouth, in the San Juan River, and the Animas from 5,900 at the same north point to 5,300 below. On the boundary of Colorado and New Mexico the Animas is 17 miles due east of the La Plata. The latter, with a tortuous course, flows to the south, its mouth being 20 miles dis- tant; it receives no streams en route, all of its tributaries being wholly dry unless during the ~ rainy season. In both peculiarities mentioned, the La Plata and the Animas are very similar. The yalley of the Animas trends so strongly to APPENDIX SS. bere’ the southwest that at the distance of 27 miles its mouth, in the San Juan, is but 24 miles due east from the La Plata, and about 4 miles by the windings of the river. On the west bank of the Animas, ashort distance below Animas City, are met the high abrupt hills of the Upper Cretaceous series, limiting on the west the great basin or depression in which lie the Florida and Animas in part, and to a greater extent the Los Pinos. Through two lateral spurs, still remaining and extending to the same series on the eastern side, the Animas has cut a gorge where it is so deflected from its former course as to include a width of a mile where the erosion of long ages has left a level area or bench, the intermediate river-bottom being here 600 yards in width. Maga From below the second gorge to the mouth of the Florida the terrace formation is characteristic and continuous, with lines more nearly than elsewhere equidistant from the Animas. About 74 miles above the mouth of the Florida was made the following outline, illustrative of the general terrace structure throughout the basin, the distance east to the Florida being about 34 miles; at several points, however, the width of the section between the rivers lying in this great depression was considerably in excess of that distance. ; The river was here 250 feet wide and 2feet deep. The height of the lower mesa above the river varied, being occasionally as low as 25 feet to the south of the Florida, and above varying from 40 to 100 feet; 60 or 70 feet being at least the average. Its width possessed as great a variation, as had also the immediate bottom. ' — Just below the mouth of the Florida, the line of Cretaceous hills on its south extends to the west, and the river here passes through a narrow gorge therein, the walls abrupt, almost vertical on the east, but considerably eroded upon the west. The fol- lowing is an approximate outline at that point: 1500 ft. Yy \ s . \ jis Animas liver. The encircling high walls of rock about this huge basin, the uniform level nature of these benches within, the drift of pebbly débris covering them everywhere on top and sides, suggest the great inland sea that here existed, portions of whose bottom at pres-- ent constitute the divide between the three rivers. With the partial erosion of the confining walls on the south and the outflow therefrom, the subsidence of the waters. left the Animas and the Florida distinct streams, and the latter a tributary from its failure to rupture its southern barrier and individually reach the San Juan. With a diminution of its waters and the rapid erosion (comparatively speaking) deepening its outlet through the confining walls to the south, the water fell to the height of the power bench, whence successive and similar operations have depressed it to its present evel. For over 8 miles from its entrance the river continues in the cafion, cut through the huge yellow sandstone cliffs, its passage in general a desolate region, relieved at the distance of 44 miles by the successive regression and advance of its walls, leaving spaces of 900 yards or less where grazing occurs. The cation at its inception is very narrow, and considerably obstructed by huge -blocks of yellow sandstone, fallen from the mass above. It can, however, be passed, and will in time be undoubtedly utilized as a wagon route from the settlements below, which are only reached at present by a long detour via the La Plata. Here the trail leaves the river-bottom and passes the narrow point of the ecafion over the second bench. Mr. R. L. Smyth, a settler of considerable enterprise, whe immigrated with 112 & Lie REPORT OF THE CHIEF OF ENGINEERS. his family to the lower river from Cafion City, Colo., in September last, locating, with some 60 head of cattle, about 6 miles below the line of the Ute Reserve, deserves the credit of having first made the passage of the canon with a wagon, it having been pre- viously considered wholly impassable. His team consisted of four yoke of oxen, with a second wagon trailing behind. Both were safely gotten through, without damage or uncoupling. Beyond the Indian Reserve the high hills are broken down to the south, and the val- ley opens, increasing rapidly in width to 2,000 and 2,500 yards, which is exceeded be- low toward its mouth, making it a most valuable agricultural section. The high growth and abundance of sage and cacti are full proof of the fertility of the soil. Reaching the immediate bottoms, the luxuriance of willow and a large variety of un- dergrowth, including wild oats and varied grasses between the cottonwoods fringing the river, attest its richness. The bounding rocky walls of the valley have decreased in size but have become very attractive, and for some distance, chiefly upon the west side, they possess a sin- gular beauty. With funnel-shaped portions of the sides eroded, the rest of the outer walls stand forth the frusta of huge pyramids and beautiful bas-reliefs from the water-sculpture adorn the valley sides. The huge masses of the Upper Cretaceous have disappeared, and underlying strata of shales, and lime, and sandstones are seen. (See figure.) Instead of the bright yellow above, beautiful bands stretch over the On the Lower Animas. fronts of the pyramids, vari-colored and perfectly parallel, of yellow, bluish-gray, and other attractive hues. This lower valley of the Animas can be easily irrigated. It will produce immense ‘crops, and affords room for a large population. From its altitude and situation, its . winter climate is undoubtedly very fine; and but little snow, if any, can lie in this valley. Of all the land lying in the Lower Animas and Florida, the most barren and desolate sections are contained within the boundaries of the Indian reservation. The settlers were much scattered, and few had accomplished more than the building of their cabins. In the aggregate were found upon the river about 250 head of horses, the cattle amounting to about 1,900, passing en route a herd of 700 sheep, belonging to Mexicans, here temporarily only. ice THE LA PLATA. ‘The Rio de la Plata, or the River of Silver, derivesits name from the mountains whence it springs, which for a long time have been, by both Mexicans and Indians, believed to contain quantities of the precious metal; a tradition not without foundation. Between Animas City and the La Plata, the only portions of a possible value of vegetal and more extensive crops are the limited areas of the lower parts of Junction and Lightner Creeks. Up the former the immediate trail from Animas City passes, and along the latter for a short distance is the toll-road to Parrott. The area along both streams, already referred to, is inconsiderable save at their mouths, being confined and limited between rolling hills. Most of the ranches seen were evidently those of late comers, the largest place on Junction Creek being 50 acres, all fenced, of which but 3 were under cultivation. The toll-road is well located along on a natural route, is in good order, and affords easy communication between the two rivers, the trail being some distance to the north, and shorter. The hills are of the same general series as those on the Animas below the town, not- ing the absence of the upper sandstones; along the divide between the two creeks exposures of the underlying shales were observed. Reaching the La Plata itself about Parrott City, its seat of thickest population, we have made but slight descent from the long divide climbed from the Animas. This section is therefore, from its height, not adapted to the growth of cereals, its elevation being over 2,000 feet above that of the same latitude on the Animas. ¥ This river, emerging from a gorge in the La Plata Mountains, at whose mouth lies the town ona high and grassy tableland called the Mesa Verde, or “‘ green table,” from its level surface, stretching out from the mountains, is a clear and beautiful trout- stream, and was 18 feet by 8 inches when crossed there late in September. APPENDIX SS. 1779 / Possessing but a single running affluent, Cherry Creek, coming from the west, it has considerable fall in its upper and central part. Its lower section, where the river is tortuous and sluggish, belongs to that already described in connection with the lower Animas and San Juan, received numbers of immigrants during last season. Like the Animas, the valley of this stream is comparatively narrow and confined, the boundary of rock being sharp and frequently vertical cliffs. Within, the same fertility and rich- ness of the soil obtains on proper irrigation, instanced by the luxuriance of the unculti- vated growth immediately adjoining the waters. The fertility and beauty of this stream has always been fully appreciated by the Indians, large numbers of Utes, as has been their wont, being encamped upon it during the fall. Many a growl will be heard before their removal is consummated. THE MANCOS, The Rio Mancos, or, supplying the ellipsis, the Rio de los Mancos, signifies the River of the Maimed, i. e., lacking one or both hands. Its Spanish origin is unknown; whether or not it was due to such outrages upon settlers or travelers along its banks by hostile Indians, we are not aware. It has of late years gained notoriety from the reports of scientific explorers touching the cliff-houses and other vestiges of the dense population that once dwelt along its banks. This stream rises in the La Plata Mountains, on the western slope of the ridge, and near by the La Plata itself. After coursing to the west and south, not far distant, it makes a great swing to the southwest and crosses the Colorado line over 40 miles west of the latter stream, emptying into the San Juan over 60 miles lower down the river than the La Plata. The two branches of this stream, sometimes mapped as the North and South forks, are locally called the East and West, but erroneously, as the western body of water is the main stream, the other being but a tributary of scarcely half its length. The latter was, in September, 10 feet in width by 4 inches, the other being deeper and 15 feet in width. With a rapid fall and greater length, the river is more than 2,000 feet lower than the La Plata at Parrott; it has also a less altitude than. the Animas at Animas City. As might, therefore, be conjectured, it is a valuable agricultural section, of which it gives promise in having been formerly the seat of habitation of a dense population, whose vestiges indicate their peaceful habits and devotion to agricultural pursuits. The Mesa Verde is a portion of the general plateau country, extending from the mountain’s base to the south, west, and northwest. This formation is of a sedimentary nature, and in its age belongs to the Cretacecus period. The highest exposed masses, formed during long periods of subsidence and ~ which have since been elevated, are massive sandstones, brilliant yellow on close ap- proach, best seen in the lower cafion of the Animas, where they are exposed vertically for over 1,200 feet. Underlying the upper sandstones are series of varying strata, mainly of dark shales, with alternating bands of sandstones, clays, and limestones, which, subjected to no violent action since original deposition, have preserved their original parallelism. They may, with finest landscapic effect, be best observed upon the lower Animas. This second series being softer than the upper sandstones, which them- selves present but little resistance to atmospheric action, are rapidly denuded and worn from the rocks upon which they are superposed, the lowest and oldest series of the period. With the erosion of the upper sandstones covering them, the underlying shales are rapidly denuded in large areas extending underneath the upper rocks, which, deprived of suport, fall in masses, leaving vertical cliffs or overhanging rocks. Canons, therefore, formed herein would be, in their upper parts, vertical or overhang- ing masses of sandstone, and below in steps or narrow benches, grading to the top as successively the softer shales are met by the harder but narrower stratifications. This mesa, composed of the Middle and Upper series of this geological period, covers an area of hundreds of miles, largely in the Indian reservation, and extends down to near the San Juan, where it towers to a height of 2,000 feet, and presents the same characteristics as the similar formation seen on the Piedra, the Lower Pinos, and Ani- mas; steep escarpments of sandstone, almost vertical walls, sparse vegetation, its for- estry limited and dwarfed, a region in all respects far from attractive, from which agriculture is banished. Ascending it from the Animas to the La Plata at Parrott City, we find the stream here in an elevated bed, the general surface not deeply eroded. Its western boundary is near by, and from this point a fine and most extended view is obtained of the great ocean-like surface to the west, upon whose shore or banks high up we stand. Spread out before us its level is broken only by the distant tops of the Sierra Carriza in the Arizona corner, a little less than a thousand feet higher than our position ; Ute Mount- ain, still loftier and nearer, in Colorado; and beyond, in Utah, the Sierra Abajo; and far to the northwest, but dimly seen, the tops of the Sierra la Sal, rising to 12,000 and 13,000 feet. 1780 REPORT OF THE CHIEF OF ENGINEERS. Descending over 1,200 feet, by a fine wagon-road and over a natural route, the Man- cos is reached, its eastern branch about 12 miles from the La Plata, the main stream half a mile beyond. Grassy hills intervene, of gentle inclination, their slopes covered with scrub oak, with larger forest growth beyond. At about 7 miles from Parrott City — is passed a magnificent grazing section known as Thompson’s Park, about 4 miles long, averaging perhaps 2 in width, well covered with handsome spruce, and containing fully 4,500 acres of fine pasturage. The streams which are mapped as watering this region were found, unfortunately, wholly dry. Before reaching the water of the Mancos, but a few hundred yards distant and on the right of the road, was observed a fine mineral spring with a strong but not very disagreeable odor, due to the presence of hydrogen sulphide, an element acquired in its passage over the black shales, exposed not far distant, and seen also on the opposite side of the La Plata. : The valley of the Mancos is very attractive. To the traveler from the west, after a passage of the deserts, the barren, arid wastes that intervene between running water, it seems doubly so, a sort of garden region, with its groves of lofty spruce and cotton- wood and willows bordering the clear and sparkling stream with well-grassed banks. In the most desirable portion the land is almost wholly taken up; the section pre- ferred is that part of the valley from the crossing of the road to the south. In this distance, 7 miles altogether, there were located 27 ranches, nearly 20 of which pos- sessed improvements generally of a meager character beyond the dwellings. The amount of cultivated land was small, a total of but 75 or 100 acres only being well farmed; the ranch of Mr. Merritt, apparently in better condition than any on the river, contained 30 acres of corn and wheat. The former was still standing; the lat- ter, he stated, had yielded 25 bushels per acre. : The last place on the river is that of O’Donnell, a ranchman with a genuine Irish heart, who, with Mr. Sheets, of Animas City, the principal capitalist, and a few oth- ers, are engaged in stock-raising, having about 30 horses and nearly 1,500 head of cat- tle. Aside from theirs, scarcely more than 400 head of stock were in the valley. The remarkably fine condition of all the stock, which roam about uncared for, attests the fertility of the soil in the nutritious grasses growing over the waterless plains. The ranch of O’Donnell & Co., occupying a frontier place, has suffered from depre- dations chiefly of the Indians. A week before our passing, four horses belonging thereto had been stolen by Mexicans. Their trail for 100 miles had been followed, thence Navajo Indians had been employed to continue the pursuit, which, without success, was not abandoned until after 12 days of very hard riding. Cattle had been stolen at various times, and in August a herd of 40 or 50 of their stock had been driven off by Indians, their trail going to the northeast is the direction of Ouray. From such loss and molestation, not only is the present settlement of the section suffering, but that of the future is being discouraged and prevented. The aspect hence to the southisuninviting. At the distance of a mile, rise, like a huge sea-wall, above us the Mesa Verde, its line extending here directly west. Here and there, reft by small chasms or canons, the projecting rectangular masses, desolate, black, and forbidding, extend toward us like huge castles upon some towering hills. The Mancos now receives no running tributary; the whole region is arid and deso- late ; its course is southwest in an imposing cafion, at points 2,000 feet in depth cut through the middle and upper series of the mesa. Narrow below, rising in steps and abrupt outward slopes, with walls of vertical escarpments in the upper sandstones, this region is of great interest to archeologists, from the ruins and clift-houses that lie within the cafion. Earlier, during the rainy season, the general aspect of the country may be different, but when visited in September it had a sterile look. The Mancos itself was sunken largely, being merely in occasional holes, and not running during the last 25 to 30 miles of its course. THE RIO DOLORES. The Rio Dolores signifies the River of Grief, and excepting this river on the north, whose course is to the northwest, there is no running stream of any kind watering the entire section of Colorado from the Mancos to the Utah line, an area of over 1,200 square miles. On leaving the Maneos and ascending the hills near by, over which the trail to the Dolores passes, a fine view of the outstretching country is presented; the altitude is about 7,500 feet, the atmosphere is clear, and the outlook is only limited by the range of vision. Direct to the south the high walls of the Mesa Verde stretch out to the west; imme- diately below us lies, spread out to Ute Mountain, the ‘‘Montezuma Valley,” filled with. ancient ruins, a section susceptible, from its immense sage-brush, almost rendering it impassable, of the highest cultivation and fertility, providing water, the one thing lacking in this entire region, could be provided. Beyond, 25 miles to the southwest, rises Ute Mountain, with other elevations, to over 9,000 feet, near which is a large and APPENDIX S8. : 1781 ~ beautiful spring, its water sinking in the plain below, utilized by the Indians, whose villages are there located, and who cultivate some of the land near by. ar to the southwest, about 60 miles distant, near the southwest corner of the State, and lying near the Arizona and New Mexico line, rise the summits of the Sierra Car- yizo, so named from the abundant reed-grass there; farther east, the sharp and pointed summit of the ‘‘Needles,” an isolated and remarkable mass of volcanic rock, its tops sharp and needle-like, as if to pierce the great sedimentary rocks through which it has arisen solitary and alone to nearly 2,000 feet, its sides vertical, sheer elifis for fully half its height. To the northwest rise the low tops of the Sierra Abajo, or ‘Low Mountains,” in Utah and 70 miles away. These are known locally to the Utes and_Pi-Utes (or Pay- Utes) of Utah, roaming here, as the Elk Mountains, but are now called by the white settlers the ‘Blue Mountains,” on account of their beautiful color at this distance, but chiefly to distinguish them from the magnificent range of that name lying in the San Juan between the headwaters of the Gunnison and the Grand. Still farther to the north and more distant, nearly 100 miles away, in Utah, in the angle between the Dolores and Grand, rise dimly the tops of the highest peaks of the Sierra la Sal, or Mountain of Salt, from its large deposits thereof. All this region is one devoid of agricultural hope. It is, beyond doubt, a fine grazing region, and the rank growth of vegetation in arroyos, Or the dry, narrow beds of streams, is indicative of exceeding richness of the soil, but water is everywhere absent. Enthusiasts suggested their scheme of a long canal from the Dolores for irrigating the large area to the south and southwest. This is unfortunately wholly impracticable, for both the Dolores and its tributary on the south here serve their country to but little good, being confined in narrow canons of true isolation, whose sides are almost vertical walls in the sedi- mentary rocks. Before coming tothe Dolores, about 4 n iles therefrom and fourteen from Mancos, an affluent of the former is reached, known as the “ Lost Cafion.” The origin of the name was not learned, but was probably due to the disappearance of the canon cut through sandstone as the stream is ascended. The caion was here not excessively deep, and is reached at several points without difficulty. Utes from the Peak to the southwest, and Pi-Utes, the latter a rascally looking lot of vagabonds, from the west, were en- camped near by to obtain water for their ponies. During our entire stay here, all our movements were signaled to and fro by puffs and columns of smoke in the usual Indian fashion. The vegetation is here largely of grass, sage, and pifion, with cedars near the river, and beyond to the south, replacing the pifion, areas are covered with cacti and the soap-plant (Yucca angustifolia), whose fruit is the great Indian favorite. The river was reached at the point where a direct sweep to the north is made from its western course, known locally as the ‘Big Bend” of the Dolores. Not far below the mouth of the “Lost Cation” we descended from the plain to the river-bottom, a few hun- dred feet below; a narrow, but fertile section, well wooded and grassed, and looking more beautiful than elsewhere would appear from the very aridness of the region. passed over in reaching it. The Big Bend is, in truth, an oasis in the dry desert region surrounding it; it has been occupied for ranching purposes, and is the extreme outpost of the agricultural region, not of the San Juan only, but of the whole of Colorado. Attracting attention from its location at so distant a western point, it becomes the more interesting when to other unfavorable surroundings that of unfriendly Indians is added. It was there- fore visited for examination. The East Fork of the Dolores drains part of the La Plata Mountains and ridges to the north; its West Fork rises to the northeast on the southern sides of the Sierra San — Miguel, a group of peaks whose general anticlinal axis is apparently east and west, waters tributary to the San Miguel flowing from the northern slopes. At the Big Bend, therefore, having drained an extended area, the Dolores possessed no mean vol- ume; its size in September when we first reached here was 80 feet wide by some 8 inches deep, 3 miles below being 50 feet with a corresponding increase of depth. The river in changing and shifting its bed has worn in the sedimentary rocks a fertile val- ley, narrow and limitedin area. Upon either side rise yellow sandstones, in general impassable cliffs ; broken down upon the south, easy access is had from the plain above to the bottom below, a valley of depression; upon the east or right bank, looking down the river, the hills are 300 feet above the water, increasing shortly to 450, ove-: hanging the stream, and 500 not far distant, in general steep escarpments ; upon the left 200 feet near us, while beyond the mesa is 300 to 350 feet above the valley. Three miles below, on the latter side, the walls break off to the left and disappear in the general plain, low rolling hillocks replacing them. ; it is, however, out of order at several points, where inexpensive repairs will make it a fine passage-way. LAKE CITY AND CONNECTING ROADS. From Alden’s or Antelope Park, a good toll-road passes north and northwest to Lake City, 334 miles. This thriving town is the seat of the greatest wealth and mining in- dustry in the San Juan, and to its numerous roads and communication with the outer world, much prosperity is due. The road from Antelope Park comes from the southeast. This is now under more able and wealthier management than last year, when, during the spring months, it was almost impassable. New and. shorter locations, better grades, and side drains made, or under construction, will render the road good and passable at all seasons. The road from Saguache comes from the north, ascending the Lake Fork. It is continued to the southwest to the town of Animas (altitude 11,550 feet), 29 miles distant, passing en route up the stream through the rich mining section known as Burrow’s Park (which includes Tellurium, &c.), the American Basin, and other camps, and crossing at an altitude of 12,650 feet one of the great mountain chains that here rise up with more numerous and lofty peaks than elsewhere are found upon the continent. From Ani- mas Forks this road continues 3 miles to Mineral City (altitude about 11,500 feet), a promising town located at timber-line, near the top of a mountain spur of the Uncom- pahgre Range. THE HENSEN CREEK ROUTE. Another toll-road has been lately built to the west, passing up Hensen Creek, open- ing up a rich mining region and serving as an opposition route to Animas Forks, to which point it is shorter by over 6 miles than the Burrows Park road. It was an ex- pensive line, owing to the large amount of rock-blasting necessary. At about 10 miles from Lake City, it passes the mining settlement of Capitol City (altitude about 9,500 feet), reaching Mineral City at a distance of about 20 miles. Ani- mas Forks, as might be inferred, is located upon the Upper Animas River, at the junction of two streams, by whose union it is formed. A toll-road is open, down the river, passing Eureka, at the mouth of Eureka Gulch, 4 miles to the south, and reach- ing Howardsville, at a distance of 8 miles. This route is the only one over which ma- chinery can be readily taken to Silverton and neighboring points. From Del Norte it is a long detour by way of lake, but the difficulties, insurmountable at present, of the route up the Rio Grande, render the former preferable. The Hensen Creek line is, from lake to Animas Forks, the most practicable one for heavy teams, for the Burrows Park route, in addition to being.6 to 8 miles longer, is, in the upper sections, in a wretched condition. 1798 REPORT OF THE CHIEF OF ENGINEERS. THE GUNNISON ROAD. Down the Gunnison “iver from its headwaters passes a wagon-road, a great high- way connecting on the north, east, and south with the South ‘Park region, * where are the mines of Mount Lincoln and other districts in the Park Range, branches leading to Cafion City and Saguache, the Los Pinos Agency, and Lake ‘City. Avoiding the terrible Grand Conon of the Gunnison, it crosses to the Uncompahgre, down which it follows almost to its mouth, where it passes, to the Gunnison, and follows down the latter river and along the Grand, as the Salt Lake wagon-road. This is the natural position of the extension of the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fé Railroad, whose gen- eral line is from east to west, and present terminus, Pueblo, the line thence to Cation City, being part of the narrow-gauge railroad, the Denver and Rio Grande. OURAY AND CONNECTING ROADS. On the upper part of the Uncompahgre, down the mountain range, forms Mineral City, but about 8 miles distant, and near the rich mineral deposits of Mount Sneffels, lies the village of Ouray, possessing the most flattering prospects for wealth, prosperity, and rapid increase in population of any incipient town in the San Juan. A road passes northwest down the Uncompahgre to connect with the Gunnison road, and north and northeast to reach the Saguache and Lake City line up the Lake Fork. Business facilities with Lake City are imperatively demanded, and a shorter route should be at once constructed. From Mineral City down the mountains to the rich agricultural valley at whose upper edge lies Ouray, is a mountain trail. The mountains here are terrible in the extreme, excessively steep, great masses of almost vertical wall, on which a footing is often a matter of conjecture, a mounted passage in the range of possibilities only. The trail is, to say the least, very dangerous. The average descent is over 600 feet to the mile, and none but a thoroughly daring mountaineer can ride over it. Trains of “Jacks” or burros transport over it but a small amount of freight, nearly always with the loss of one or more animals. Old ‘‘ Forty-niners” say that it has no equal in the mining country of Nevada and California. Just before Lake City was visited a man_ passing the trail on horseback had gone off with his animal and both been killed. The snow-capped mountains near whose summit les Mineral City, and the end of the toll-road, are in sight from Ouray but inaccessible, and instead of Lake being reached in a drive of 28 miles, a long detour of 100 must be taken. This being directly at vari- ance with rapid intercommunication which is demanded by the necessities of trade, a stock company has been formed for the construction of a toll-road direct from Ouray to Mineral City. After careful surveys and selection of the best grades by competent engineers, the road was commenced and is now stated to be building. The difficulties to be overcome may be best imagined by the fact that, while the distance is short, the cost is computed at not less than $60, 000, possibly reaching $70,000, of w hich’ amount $15,000 stock was subscribed by the citizens of the place. THE ANIMAS ROAD TO SILVERTON. Silverton and contiguous camps need a shorter outlet; direct communication at an early day is absolutely essential for prosperity. The w ealth of its surroundings is immense, its facilities are poor; it is shut out from the world, and is wholly subordi- nate to Lake City. Owing to the difficulty of getting ores to market much industry is idle. The reduc- tion works there buy nothing under 75-ounce ore, or rock yielding 75 ounces of silver per ton, equal to $90. All but high-grade mines ‘lie idle, while at Lake 40-ounce ore finds a realy market. To the south lies a rich agricultural region and coal in abundance, shut out by the Grand Canon of the Animas, where the river runs in a narrow gorge, inaccessible often, with mountain slopes of the steepest kind, frequently 45°, oftentimes nearly ver- tical, while the summits look down upon the bottom of the gorge, 4,000 to 5, 000 feet above it. To enable Silverton to obtain produce and coal, most ‘needed commodities, a toll-road through the canon was projected, a charter obtained by four persons, and its construction commenced in August, 1876, by Mr. James L. Wightman, a thoroughly practical man. The working parties were passed on the 29th of. September last, with about 4 miles of road to open, since which we have learned freight-teams are now passing up to Silverton over the entire road. WIGHTMAN’S ROAD IN THE GRAND CANON OF THE ANIMAS. This road, projected through one of the grandest and most inaccessible cations in the whole region, deserves more than a passing mention, being on a larger and more expensive scale than any other undertaking for the general welfare and improvement APPENDIX SS. 1'v3a9 of the mining region, except the new road to connect Ouray with Mineral City, the terminus of the toll-road to Lake. The cation of the river well deserves the name of ‘‘Grand” bestowed upon it by geographers. For a long time, as a route of communication, it was deemed impracti- cable and was necessarily avoided. Leaving Silverton, below the crossing of Mineral Creek, the trail ascends the side of the mountain on the right of the cafion, and crossing the ridge of peaks cut through by the Animas at an altitude of 10,400 feet, takes a southwesterly direction. Another trail from Silverton ascends Mineral Creek and Bear Creek, one of its tributaries, to its head, crossing the same mountain range at 11,500 feet, and joining the former trail at Lime Creek. From this point the Sil- verton trail passes to the east of Engineer Mountain, 14 miles from its base, crossing Cascade Creek, and approaching to the south meets the new toll-road a short distance above the head of the Park. Previous to the building of the Wightman road Silver- ton had no communication with the south save by this trail. Much of the time (probably fully half) the highest portion of the route was passable only on snow- shoes, being even then a dangerous trip, some of the mail-carriers losing their lives in making the crossing. In early summer the melting snows made the way boggy and miry, and even in the fall, when at its best, the trail is in many places steep and dangerous and passable for light packs only. At the mouth of Mineral Creek, the lower point of Baker’s Park, the Animas enters its caflon, which rapidly narrows; here its elevation is about 9,300 feet, while at the upper part of the park, where it debouches from its cafion into the open valley, 6,800, a fall of 2,500 feet in about 26 miles. For this distance it is inaccessible, shut out by great rocky walls, mainly high peaks of quartzite, members of the Great Needles or seater crags which stretch across the Vallecito and the Florida to the Animas. he walls almost close at points, the river rushing through a space of 30 yards from wall to wall, the sides of which, almost as hard as steel, seem insuparable obstacles rising up, slightly rounded from a vertical to nearly a thousand feet, at which height a greater ouitward slope occurs. Occasionally there is found a bottom width of 250 yards, where grazing is seen. These little parks are, however, but oases in the gen- eral rocky barrenness. The angle from the river up to the mountain summits that tower above from 3,000 to as high as 5,000 feet approaches 45°, and the widening out of the cafion makes its upper width from 2 to 3 miles. Here occasionally nature interposed great obstacles to a passage. In a narrow bed the river ran by with the velocity of a mountain stream, without foothold between it and the walls beside it, their inclination so near a vertical as to render the cost of blasting for a roadway a questionable expense. Numerous bridging was to be avoided on account of the situa- tion and the spring rise of the river. At such places the river was occupied for a passage-way, and these were by far the most expensive points. As the river descends there is found a greater width of room, a small ‘‘ bench” generally between the water and the mountain through which was easily effected a clearing giving a passage-way. At some points where existed no bench or place for a roadway by the river bank, the mountain and slope being of rock and very steep, a high sustaining wall was neces- sary, in some cases as great as 20 to 30 feet (Fig 1). At other points, the mountain Y Yy ea Mfg ps YY an Up 7: Uppers ZG 1 Yj q Porn Y es) [cm Wa te Wal Es Totti es ae as =STILTLi a Yj=—4 Ele poy HA TTT oy [fe eT ee Fig. I Soom S = 1800 REPORT OF THE CHIEF OF ENGINEERS. slope being too nearly a vertical, and without any bank by the water, a passsage was constructed in a part of the river-bed for a distance as great as several hundred yards in the shape of a pier. These viaducts were of superior workmanship, the height varied from 8 to 10 feet, and with the side slope from the bottom commensurate with the strength and endurance required, the top surface was at the widest points at least 10 feet across. (See Fig. II.) Mr. Wightman stated the cost of construction of the via- ducts of the average dimension, 10 feet at base, 8 feet on a vertical, and 8 feet wide at top, to be $1.50 per linear foot. At some points this was exceeded, the river with a rapid current and a depth of 6 feet, occupying the place where the road now passes. Here the blasting was also very expensive from the flint-like nature of the quartzite, the working being so difficult that 30 steel drills per foot were used. The most ex- pensive filling of this nature presented the following items of interest: Length of fill, 441 feet. Width at bottom, 14 to 16 feet. Width at top, 10 feet. Deepest water, 6 feet 2 inches. Greatest depth of fill, 11 feet 9 inches. Average depth of fill, 5 feet 10 inches. Cost per linear foot, $1.72. Cost of blasting in quartzite, open work, $7.92 per cubic yard. | The route of the road from Silverton is upon the right bank, crossing at the end of Baker’s Fork, below the mouth of Mineral Creek, to the east or left bank, by a plain but strongly built bridge (Fig. III) 200 feet long, 18 feet wide, and averaging about 14 feet above the water, pro- vided with side rails, the flooring of hewn timber, the upper surface squared and pinned by stringers. The eastern end is higher than the other, the road here being along solid rock. It continues down this bank about 43 miles, when it recrossd to the other, at which point in September last were found standing three piers of the old bridge, built the year before and washed away during the high water of the spring. Nearly all the timber was on hand for rebuilding it, which was to be done during October. The river here was 250 feet wide; and Bao Wile Wh ve upon the right bank the road continues through- out the entire cafion, and on to the park below. The mouth of Cascade Creek was a formidable obstacle. Inclosed near its mouth in vertical walls, increasing to nearly 200 feet, a passage there was impossible. At this point the nature of the cation of the Animas abruptly changes. From the end of Bakevr’s Park, for 17 miles without the windings of the river, it is encompassed by im- posing mountains of quartzite towering one upon another. Instead of hugging the trachytic formations, beginning at Sultan Mountain, and not far distant in its course, the river boldly entered upon the more difficult task of forcing a passage between these harder obstructions. From the upper brink of the grand cafion the river like a silver thread may at inter- vals be seen 4,000 to 5,000 feet below. The general course has thus far been south and southwest; with the accession of Cascade Creek, the departure from the great quartz- ite region, the cafion of the river changes to one more nearly straight, due south in direction, its walls vertical, in places almost 1,000 feet in depth, where the river is wholly inaccessible. This is situated in a valley of rolling hills, shut in on the east by a ridge gradually diminishing to the south, while a range of cliffs of sandstone, encom- passing the ‘Cliff Lakes” and continuing also to the south, from the western limit of this depression and the boundary on the west of the park itself. The general average of the river’s fall from Baker’s to Animas Park is about 100 feet per mile. Near the beginning of the great ‘‘Box” Cafion of the river there is de- scent above the average, and falls and rapids of the river interpose too great for the agility of the trout. While this fish of a superior size and flavor may be taken in the Park below, none can be found in the Grand Cafion nor in Baker’s Park above. Leaning over the top of the bank at the edge of the cafion, with a firm hold on a rock or an overhanging tree and gazing down upon the water white with the foam of its dashing and surging under and against the great black rocks that obstruct and confine it, there is a feeling of awe that overcomes the beholder. When encamped near the Box Cafion of the Animas, some hours were occupied in attempts to reach the water’s edge at several points, which were unsuccessful, owing to the obstruction of vertical walls. In order to avoid these obstructions, the route of the road was changed from the bottom of the Grand Cafion, about 19 miles distant from Silverton. A high hill was ascended by three steep gradients in a zigzag, the mountain slope encircled, high retaining walls being essential, therefore, and Cascade APPENDIX SS. 1801 Creek passed above its cafion by a fine high and well-built bridge, the stream here being some 20 feet wide, with an average depth of fully a foot and the velocity that might be expected from its name. Swinging to the west nearly 2 miles the Cliff Lakes are reached, around which, for 2 miles along their eastern sides, the road passes. These are clear and lovely sheets of water, varying in width to 600 yards with an average of about 300, beyond whose western banks rise huge mountain slopes reflected below, the surfaces frequented by water-fowl, the road almost on a level along the shore, and shaded by lofty pine and aspen. Thence to the south by a succession of easy slopes, almost a natural route, be- tween rolling hills, the road passes to the park below. The road is well ditched, and, where needed, inclined drains of dry stone are provided. All the bridges are strong and well made, the upper surface of planking, the timbers in general square-hewn, oc- casionally also covered with dirt, and fastened by well-pinned stringers. Everything indicates permanence and durability. At several places there were intervals of ‘‘slide” rock 60 to 75 yards in length, where the road was not in traveling order, but this was to be covered and completed later. The charter of the road was taken out in 1876 and work begun September 1. Seven miles of the route, from Silverton to the south, was completed and opened during the fall at a cost of $3,270. In 1877 work was commenced early in April at the head of the Animas Valley, and continued witha daily average of 30 hands, the pay of those at ordinary labor being $1.50, and on rock blasting $3, including board. At the end of September last the cost had been $19,000. At that time about 4 miles remained un- opened, the cost of completing the same and putting the entire road in perfect condi- tion, including bridges, making an aggregate of $30,000. The completion and opening of this road must result in great advantages to the min- ing region. Llustrative of the great expense entailed by its secluded situation may be mentioned that of forage ; while in the valley of the Animas, as at Animas City, hay was plenty at $40 per ton and corn $2.25 per bushel, at Silverton double that amount wasasked. As the winter and spring approach and the passes become blocked with snow, these prices become greatly enhanced. It must, therefore, lower the high prices existing and give free access to large fields of coal, the supply of which now comes from a long distance. In turn it will be of great advantage to the lower section in the largely-increased market for its produce and the establishment of reduction-works near to or in the coal region, since the trans- portation necessary for the carriage of this fuel up the Animas will in time be utilized for return loads of ore from the mines. THE INNESS ROAD TO SILVERTON,. As already stated, the route to Silverton for heavy freight teams, previous to the opening of the Wightman road, was via the Burrows Park, or Hensen Creek line via Lake City, from the railroad, preferably the latter. In general, however, the Wight- man line, as a route for freight from the railroad, is too long, its distance from Gar- land City being 281 miles, and with the new terminus at Alamosa 256. Presuming pbac tne latter situation, we have Silverton’s distance by lines at present practicable as follows: Silverton, from the railroad at Alamosa, route via— Distance. Miles Conejos, Chama road, and Wightman’s road, Grand Cafion of the Animas...........--.--.--- 253. 9 Rio Grande to Antelope Springs, Lake City, and Hemsen Creek...........-....--.-.-..------ 145. 7 Old county road up the Rio Grande (impassable in part) .........-.......--.----------------- 124. 2 Inness road up Rio Grande and Cunningham Gulch (proposed)..........-.---.-------+------- 128.7 Of the above, the Hensen Creek, being the only one in fine condition and about 110 miles the shorter, will, of course, be preferred. By the Conejos route the continental divide is passed at a low point; by the last two, a high mountain pass at the head of the Rio Grande must also be surmounted; while by the Lake City route, two high mountain ranges intervene, and must be crossed, before Silverton is reached. From the most casual glance at the table, it will be seen that the direct route up the Rio Grande is the desideratum, being the line of shortest communication. The route via Cunningham Gulch, though 44 miles longer than the old county road already referred to, crosses the range by a pass 500 feet lower, and is, therefore, preferred by all pack- trains, which were frequently to be seen, and whose trails, deeply furrowed and from 6 to 10 in number, were observed on the east side of the range below the top of the gulch. In making the descent from the summit, there were passed close by about 1802 REPORT OF THE CHIEF OF ENGINEERS. 100 jacks, or burros, and mules, heavily laden with freight, and drivers afoot; every- thing indicated that a good toll-road will be a paying investment. With this impres- sion, on the commencement of the Wightman road, Mr. Edward Inness, of New York City, obtained a charter for such a line from. Howardsville to Antelope Springs, by way of Cunningham Gulch. He chose this route, being largely interested in mining property near the head of the gulch, since he was compelled to construct a way to transport his ore to Howardsville, where he had erected reduction-works; he there- fore determined to continue the line beyond the range and down the Rio Grande to connect with the lower roads at their junction in Antelope Park. On the road down the gulch, 5 miles to Howardsville, $2,000 were expended; above his works, a mile toward the summit, was said to have cost $4,000. This was finished in the fall of 1877, at which time his works in the gulch were also constructed. From the levels furnished him, by Lieutenant Wheeler, Mr. Inness stated that the gradient on the old county road from the summit of the range above Howardsville to the point on the Rio Grande where Pole Creek enters was nearly 300 feet per mile, while upon the route he had selected it scarcely averaged beyond 200; the balance of the road, from Pole Creek to Antelope Springs, having a general descent of but 90 feet, or 1.7 per hundred, linearly. During 1878, it was said the balance of the road to the summit and the whole of that beyond, to Antelope Springs, a distance of 40 miles, was to be completed; the cost of finishing and perfecting the entire route aggre- gating $30,000. With communication direct via the Rio Grande and the route to the agricultural region to the south open, Silverton and vicinity will at once increase in prosperity, and, with a new impetus given to every interest in all the surrounding districts, she will become one of the largest places in the San Juan. SECTION III.—TRAILS. A trail is the route of nature and barbarism ; it has traversed the country and defined the lines of shortest communication before the white settler has entered the region, civilization following and replacing it with aroad. The instinct of animals leads them to form a trail in a new country, to use one existing in an old; thereafter it is used in succession by Indians and whites. Throughout the Rocky Mountains, a vast expanse, at points 200 miles in width, the most important sections are connected by old Indian trails, without which the forests and rocky defiles are wholly impassable. When it is known that with the absence of travel the rank summer vegetation of the mountains will in a single season cover and conceal them, while the stunted growth of limbs and broken bushes by which the Indian marks the way will become dim and almost imperceptible, it is not deemed inappropriate to add to the other lines of communication a list of trails deemed most important. They are considered of such value by the topographer, that no representa- tion of a mountainous region is considered perfect which, with other orographic pro- jections complete, lacks the trails by which alone can passage in general be made. THE RIO GRANDE SECTION. An important trail up the west side of San Luis Valley is along the Rio Alamosa, ascending its canon. A short trail passing up Gata Creek soon crosses to and is merged in the former, descending into the canon, here over 1,000 feet deep. The trail is mainly on the right bank of the Alamosa, well worn and easily found in general. From the upper part of the cation at a great rincon (a corner, so called by the Mexicans from the mountains squarely meeting there) upon the mountain to the right may be found a dim trail, ascending abruptly 2,000 feet and meeting at the base of the Pintada Peak (locally called ‘‘Old Baldy”) the old wagon-road from Del Norte to the Summit Mining District. The latter section may thus be directly reached from the plains to the east. ; The main trail continues up the Alamosa, its continuation having been found with some difficulty at the rincon. At the mouth of the North Fork, on which the summit lies, the mines may be reached by following a very rough but direct trail up that stream. Along the South Fork, which is the main stream, the main trail follows, the gold mines of the Decatur district being here situated. It passes over the range near the Summit Peak over 13,000 feet high, and via the East Fork of the San Juan to Pa- - gosa Springs. This trail is at points difficult, high, and circuitous, and not the prefer- able point for crossing the continental divide. At the mouth of the cation of the Rio La Jara where the settlements are thickest a well-trodden trail passes directly across the lava plain to Conejos, avoiding several miles of the detour by the wagon-road to the east and south. From the valley at this stream’s headwaters and the lake beyond on the same general depression a trail was cut from the left, descending in the usual zigzag course to the bottom of the canon of the Alamosa fully 1,200 feet below the edge of the La Jara Valley. From this point the Alamosa Cafion increases as itis ascended, being fully 2,500 feet deep at the rincon. APPENDIX SS. 1803 THE TIERRA AMARILLA SECTION. From Conejos the route of the old Chama trail to Tierra Amarillo is occupied by the new wagon-road, which has been left unfinished for about 12 miles of the way ; distance about 60 miles. Another trail between the same points passes from Conejos up Los Pinos Creek for some distance, and along the great volcanic plateaus west of San Antonio Peak to the headwaters of the Rio Brazos, thence descending to the Mexican towns of the Tierra Amarilla. It is a shorter trail than the former; length about 52 miles. Still another but a longer line between the same points reaches Tierra Amarilla or its main plazas, Las Nutritas, by following down the creek of the same name, crossing the Servilleta and other creeks en route from San Antonio Peak. Trails from Tierra Amarilla also pass to the southeast toward Ojo Caliente, southwest down the Chama, and northwest to Pagosa via Calon Amargo. The latter distance by wagon-road is 58 miles; by the trail several miles shorter. Another trail up the West Fork of the Chama reaches Pagosa via the Hot Springs on the Rio Navajo, and after passing one of its tributaries and the Blanco watershed follows down a pretty valley and is merged into the county road. Trails from Tierra Amarilla also pass direct to the Rio Piedra and other points west, leaving Pagosa to the east. THE NAVAJO AND THE BLANCO. Up the Navajo itself a good Indian trail part way exists; hence to the Blanco a dim and very old trail is found, being followed with great difficulty, east and several miles distant from the county road. Along the Blanco a deer-trail was followed for a few miles in the cafion, the trail in general, however, having to be cut. No evidences of any Indian camps were found in the large valley of the Blanco above the bend. From the Blanco to the San Juan below Pagosa Springs, a trail to the left, lying on the south of the county road the lat- ter part of the way, made the route a direct line, and resulted in a-saving of about two miles. : THE SAN JUAN AND PAGOSA SPRINGS. From Pagosa Springs, always a popular resort for Indian tribes, a trail passes up _the San Juan, over the range, and down the South Fork of the Rio Grande to its mouth, distance about 50 miles. On the northern side of the main divide a branch passes to the summit, about 39 miles from Pagosa. This is an old Indian trail which has been blazed by whites. The principal trail to the Summit mining district from the springs is mainly upon the right bank and throngh the caiion of the river until the upper valley is attained, _where the trail from some new ranches on the West Fork covers over the separating divide. The trail rapidly ascends the mountains of the upper cation of the San Juan, and at its highest portions is very good. It passes over slopes so nearly precipitous that two hours’ work were necessary within 50 yards at one place to ‘build it out” for the passage of pack animals, after heavy rains that had preceded us. The cross- ing of the continental divide is below timber-line, and this part of the way to the summit, some four miles, was excessively bogey in August from melting snow-banks. Above Pagosa, a new trail ascending the West Fork and crossing the divide to the main river avoids the cafion locality near its mouth; it was cut by au American, and is very steep. From Pagosa a trail passes northwest to the Piedra, about 25 miles, crossing a stream of the Nutria watershed en route thence 23 miles to the summit of the Weeminuche Pass, whose altitude is 10,600 feet, one of the finest passes on the great divide in the Colorado section of the Rocky Mountains. Upon the Rio Grande side, which river the pass overlooks, the slope is abrupt, the trail descending 1,300 feet to the river in the distance of about 4 miles. This trail, from the Rio Piedra, is along Weeminuche Creek, possessing one of the loveliest mountain valleys in the entire San Juan, with magnificent grazing and abundant game; it was largely frequented by the Capote Utes in August. Beyond that it descends abruptly into the upper cafion of the Los Pinos and along that water to the pass referred to. A branch of the main trail continues up the Middle Fork of the Piedra, and, crossing the continental divide at a good pass some 40 miles from Pagosa, reaches the Rio Grande about 12 miles distant, descending the valley of the West Fork thereof. This is in Antelope Park, here of wide extent, Alden’s Junction, or Antelope Springs, a stage station on the Lake City and Del Norte road, being about 1} miles north of the river. " : THE RIO NUTRIA. From this stream, at the mouth of the spring near which is the ranch of Colonel Pfeiffer, a trail passes from the county road to the north, reaching the Piedra at the 1804 REPORT OF THE CHIEF OF ENGINEERS. head of its deep cafion. The valley isin places much trampled by cattle, rendering the trail at a few points difficult to follow. It traverses a dry but magnificent grazing section, and, with the Piedra trail, is the short route from the Nutria to the Rio Grande, via Weeminuche Pass. Cattle, we are informed, have been driven by this trail to the valley of the Rio Grande. THE RIO PIEDRA. The trails in the upper part of this river have already been mentioned. Inits lower part, from a short distance below the junction of its various forks, it is impassable on account of the terrible cafion walls that confine it upon both sides. Upon its western side a sort of trail passes to its upper waters. It is more properly a series of climbs from rock to rock of the sandstone mesas at the risk of life and limb, it being impossible to ride an animal over any portion of it long enough to de- serve mention. The nature of the region may be judged of when it is stated that the time occupied in passing from the road to the open valleys and plateaus above, a dis- tance of 20 miles, was six days. From near the Piedra a shorter route exists to Tierra Amarilla than the wagon-road via Pagosa. From the Rio Nutria east of the Piedra Parada, or Standing Stone, a remarkable chimney-like mass of rock rising upright from its base, there passes a trail to the southeast, crossing the San Juan below the mouth of the Blanco and continuing on to the Navajo, crossing the country road en route. Thonce it is over part of a trail already described. Like a number of other trails designated this is not upon the map, and avoiding Pagosa entirely is valuable solely as a cut-off to the Tierra Amarilla or Chama section from the Rio Nutria, the Piedra, and beyond. THE RIO LOS PINOS AND THE VALLECITO. The lower parts of these rivers are easily traversed, but the regions of the heads thereof are to be avoided, unless the occurrence of dangerous accidents be of trifling import. Up the main stream a trail passes all the way, mainly on the left bank, to the Weeminuche Pass; this is, without exaggeration, a horrible trail; necessarily so, in a horrible region. Some parties of prospectors essaying to reach the ‘ Needles” at its head went along a short distance, but abandoned the attempt. We pushed ahead, and got through with one of the party hors du combat, a mule and his rider narrowly escap- ing death by falling from the slippery rock over which passed the trail. No description can convey any idea of the ruggedness of the great crags of these mountains. Let us presume we are looking upon Manhattan Island as it appears from the Jersey side. Instead of a single Trinity spire, multiply them till a hundred or more rise up before us everywhere. Increase their size, raising up gigantic masses between, ’ sharp and craggy, like the edge of a huge, uneven saw, until the highest tops are a mile above the bay. Imagine among them sharpened peaks, great precipices, vertical cliffs, deep cations before you and behind you everywhere, all of slippery rock, with treacherous footholds. In a faint degree such may be likened to the Quartzite Group, more aptly known as the Needle Mountains. With a feeling akin to dread their pas- sage may be attempted. To avoid the cafion of the Los Pinos a trail just below its: southern end, in a magnificent wide valley, passes to the right and beyond the mount- ains to the watershed of the Piedra, along which it continues for about 20 miles, returning to the river about 3 miles below the incoming trail from the Weeminuche, thus avoiding the region of greatest difficulty in the direct ascent of the river. The distance from the mouth of the Vallecito to the Weeminuche Pass is, by the direct trail in the cafion, about 30 miles—long and difficult ones; by the detour to the right 5 miles farther. On the Vallecito, or the West Fork of the Los Pinos, an old trail passes up the right - bank some six miles, and there is lost in the deep bog on the left bank. Upon the left side a trail continues through the entire cation of the river, mainly upon that bank. At the distance of about 16 miles from the mouth of the Vallecito a mineral spring be- side the trail attracts the passer-by. This is better known as the ‘‘ Sheep-lick,” numbers of mountain-sheep being attracted thither by the iron constituents of the water. About 7 miles beyond is a low, flat area called ‘‘Deadwood,” where the east and west forks of the stream unite, the latter from the northwest, the former almost in the same line from the southeast. The name is derived from the burned, charred pine-trees standing thickly throughout the entire area, almost thrown in shadow by the huge crags tower- ing fully 2,000 feet above. The trail follows the West Fork to its head in Lake Colum- bine, a crystal-green sheet of water 900 feet long by 300 wide, beautifully located in a crateriform space amid surrounding precipitous crags. The West Fork, from its mouth to its origin in the lake, is about 8 miles in length, with a very rapid fall. Outline sketches to the north and east show the horrible nature of the mountain-summits In this region, and the difficulties besetting one in making an ascent, which is at most points an impossibility. In company with a few prospectors, this trail was opened early in September last, the ‘‘Needles” being up to that time inaccessible ; since then, we are informed, hun- APPENDIX SS. 1805 dreds of prospectors have passed over it, and it is one of the most important routes in the entire region. About 6 miles below the mouth of the Vallecito a trail from the Florida, 4 miles in length, reaches the Los Pinos. THE FLORIDA. As already mentioned, the valleys of the Upper Florida are readily reached by trail, but its headwaters are inaccessible to man or beast, and save at but few points can the quartzite crags that guard them be climbed over and descended by any human being. From Animas City a short route to the Rio Grande is via the road to the Florida, by trail up that river, across to the Los Pinos, up the cafion of the latter and via Weemi- nuche Pass to the river below, in all some 60 miles, 5 miles being added if the trail to the right of the Los Pinos Cafion be taken. From the river opposite Weeminuche Pass to Alden’s Junction, in Antelope Park, the distance is 19 miles. On the Lower Florida a trail passes to the Las Animas, connecting with the trail for the San Juan. THE RIO DE LAS ANIMAS. From Animas City to the mouth of the river a good trail exists to the San Juan. The trip can be made in the lower part on the trail following along in the river-bot- tom; but in high stages of the water, the trail on the high mesa crowning the right bank should be followed. A trail from the Florida reaches the Animas about 4 miles above its mouth, below which, at about the same distance to the south, is the line of the Indian reserve. Within this cafion region, in its course to the south, the trail crosses and recrosses the river five times within a short distance, after which it con- tinues on the left bank. The distance from Animas City to the San Juan is about 60 miles. Below Animas City a few miles a short trail passes to the La Plata. Farther down, about 5 miles above the large ruins upon the west bank of the river, a trail enters the Cafion Arido and reaches the San Juan at the mouth of the Cafion del Gobernador on the river above the great Cation Largo. THE RIO LA PLATA. ’ From the Rio de las Animas, part way ascending Junction Creek, a trail connects Parrott with Animas City. A “short cut,” as we were informed, and but 12 miles in length, proved to be about 50 per cent. more, and but little less than the toll-road. A trail up the river from Parrott City to its head crosses the range, and continues to the East Fork of the Dolores. This has been traversed, but is not attempted by prospect- ors. In preference, they make a long detour to and beyond the Mancos. THE RIO MANCOS. To the north from the union of the forks of the river a trail passes up the West Fork of the stream, towards the upper partiof the Lost Canon and the region of the East Fork of the Dolores. To the south along the settlements is a wagon-road, and beyond that a trail continues the entire length of the river to its mouth, connecting with the great trail along the San Juan. . From a point on the west bank of the river about 6 miles below the road a trail passes to the west above the line of mesas and to the north of Ute Mountain into Arizona, reaching the San Juan some distance beyond the border. THE RIO DOLORES AND BEYOND. The shortest trail to the Dolores from the Mancos is from the union of its forks 18} miles north of west. En route a trail crosses the Lost Canon and passes north to the junction of the East and West Forks of the Dolores (sometimes known also as the North and South). RESERVATION ull j Mr i DAN ANTONIO MT. abe 107°30' 107° 00° 109°00' 108 °30" Tierra Amat Teer = Ole ia Cliial ancien Corrections to Area covered during San Juan Reconnoissance 1877 SSS CAH. Mt Cauley : Kngraved in the Office of the Chief of Engineers. November, 1877. untry settled upon’ or occupted, for Muning PUPPOSes — 22 Zient.3t# Arti 4 Towns and thickly populated mining camps — —~—— ~— es 28 Dreut. 30? Arty. Tolland County Roads urtraveling cond ition — _- = in Charge. VteIndian Resavation __— _ _ *_ ___-_. ____-~.~-—-Yiiiiiitz &- Ld s 3 , rg Bi | ot. 3-Sact { un oe sos ty is et i PR ee aay oi: AREA TG a> yt enaed Leb gE Srieg- Spt Ree wie Rts Fe wie ive, Skis tay “es Side k SEM Ee dere, Spe eT > a ihe APPENDIX SS. 1809 _ San Rafael or San Rafael en el Catton, as it is called by the Mexicans (Saint Raphael in the Cafion), is 3} miles west of Guadalupe, on the south bank of the Rio Conejos | and along a small cafion ; population, about 300. San Antonio (Saint Anthony) is about 3 miles south of Guadalupe, on the Rio San Antonio; population, about 50. _ Los Pinos (The Pines), from its situation on Los Pinos Creek, about 7 miles south of Guadalupe; population, nearly 450. '. Cordon (The Line of Stones, from basaltic rocks near by), about 2 miles south of Guadalupe; population small. - Cenizaros (from Ceniza, ashes), about 5 miles southeast of Guadalupe; population, 0 La Servilleta (The Napkin), about 2 miles east of Guadalupe, on the north side of the Rio Conejos; population, 150. : _ £l Brazo (The Arm), on the north side of same stream, 4 miles east of Guadalupe; _ population, 125. Fuertecitos (from Fuerte, the provincialism for a log cabin), 7 miles east of Guadalupe, - opposite the establishment of Sefior Valdez; population, 125. _ San José (Saint Joseph), 7 miles east of Guadalupe, near Conejos and San Antonio - Rivers, and on main road to Valdez Ferry from Guadalupe ; population, about 70. Los Cerritos (The Hills, situated near by), about 10 miles east of Guadalupe, on north _ bank of the Conejos; population, about 70. Los Sauces (The Willows), 22 miles east of Guadalupe, at the mouth of the Rio Cone- _ jos; population, 200. The entire population of this section is 2,390 souls. THE TIERRA AMARILLA _is the center of the Mexican population of Northwestern New Mexico, the industry _ of the inhabitants being limited to agriculture and pastoral pursuits. In this section are included five Mexican plazas, clustered together along the Rio Chama and its. tributaries. Las Nutritas is the largest of the group, to which sometimes the name of the section itself is applied. It derives its name from the creek upon whose bank it lies, a tribu- tary of the Chama. The name La Nutrita, a diminutive, signifies ‘‘the little otter.” By aprovincialism, however, they employ nutria as a beaver, using to designate an otter’ the expression perro del agua, or water-dog. The town is equidistant from Los Ojos . and Encinada, 2 miles from each. It contains three stores—that of Burns, an Ameri- can, annual sales of $20,000; Johnson & Co., $8,000 to $10,000; and Th. Eseabal, $5,000— a shoe-shop, and blacksmith building. The post-office of the section was located here, aoa being weekly only and from no direction save from Santa Fé to the south; popu-- - lation, 250. _ Los Ojos (The Springs) is on the Rio Chama, due west from Las Nutritas 2 miles. It contains 4 stores, one a branch of Burns’ at Nutritas, annual sales given as $10,000, and three Mexican, small affairs, sales aggregating perhaps $8,000. It is 14 miles below Los Brazos, and its population is 180. The Chama River is forded at this point for all directions west, its altitude being 7,300 feet, while that of Las Nutritas is 7,480. La Puente (The Bridge), on the Chama, 2 miles from Las Nutritas and same distance: southeast from Los Ojos; no stores; a small plaza; population, 100. Encinada (The Oak) is 2 miles above Las Nutritas, on the East Fork of the Chama,. sometimes called Rio Brazos, and same distance east of Los Ojos. There are no stores. here; it is a second-rate plaza of 100. Los Brazos (The Arms), from its location at the junction of the two main forks of the Tiver, at an altitude of 7,350 feet. It is 14 miles north of Los Ojos, and, like it, is on the river-bank. There are no stores here, and in population it numbers 170. The entire population of the Tierra Amarilla section is 800. Above Los Brazos half a mile was the embryo town of Park View, all Americans.. They claimed 75 persons in all, being in fact eight cabins, and aggregating, donbtless, from very reliable information, from 30 to 40 persons. Town-lots and a city-hall loca-. tion were staked out, but nothing substantial was seen. This was a Chicago colony, with aspects much beclouded, being under the same management as the new ‘‘ road” from Conejos. Since leaving the section we have been informed that the road is still unfinished, and that most of the colonists have gone to the Animas region. Passing to the west via Pagosa, 1224 miles from Las Nutritas, we reach the largest place in the Lower San Juan, known as Animas City, lying at the southern end of the: Animas Park. ANIMAS CITY AND PARK. Of all the country adapted to agriculture, that drained by the Animas is receiving the largest amount of emigration, the portion known as the Animas Park extending’ 1145 1810 REPORT OF THE CHIEF OF ENGINEERS. from the mouth of Junction Creek, about 13 miles to the north, an especially beautiful and fertile valley, with an elevation from 6,500 to 6,800 feet, having already been almost wholly oceupied. Animas City referred to is a new and growing town on the right bank of the Animas, just above the mouth of Junction Creek, at an_altitude of 6,450 feet. Itis not laid down on any Hayden or Wheeler map, and must not be confounded with the ‘Animas City” of Wheeler, which is an old, deserted place, about 12 miles above, and on the other bank of the river. The opening of the Jicarilla Apache reservation to settlement : has during the past year drawn a considerable number of emigrants to the San Juan, the Lower Animas, and the La Plata. The most thickly settled locality is in the vicinity of the town, where were counted 38 cabins, houses, and various buildings, not including afew corrals. The population was given at 250 (September), the winter force dwindling down, it was said, to 15 or 20 families. There were four stores, hardware and general merchandise, and every- thing had a brisk look in the way of business; containing, also, a post-office, cigar store, barber-shop, &c. Three quarter-sections were occupied as the town site, which was handsomely located at the lower end of the park, upon the right or west bank of » the river, some six or eight cabins only being on the other. The town and vicinity is accredited with a population of 450. At Hermosa, near the mouth of Hermosa Creek, some 84 miles above Animas City, in the Park, a dozen scattered dwellings were observed. From the best information that could be gathered, the total population may be placed at 60. In this La Plata country there were stated to be 11,000 sheep and 5,000 head of stock, mainly in the Animas Park. The only other town in the Lower San Juan is PARROTT CITY, to the west upon the La Plata, at an altitude of 8,650 feet 18 miles by a trail, scarcely two more by the toll-road, elsewhere described. It contains some 40 houses, possess- ing in general a handsome appearance for the size of the place, and is the county seat of La Plata County, for which honor Animas City now contends. The number of reg- . istered voters in Parrott, an election being held within a month thereafter, was 61; the population of a permanent nature was stated to be 100, and its summer population was given as 400 to 500. While this was undoubtedly possessed in earlier mining days, no such population existed at the time of the visit. Its class of buildings are superior to those of Animas City and included the offices of the county officials, post-office, a store, blacksmith-shop, &c. The accredited population of the place is 125. Both here and at Animas City a weekly mail is received via Silverton all the year round. Entering the mining regions, the first place worthy of note isthe promising town of SILVERTON, a situated in Baker’s Park, of which the town site occupies 360 acres, its altitude being 9,300 feet. It is situated upon a fine level above the river, is well laid out, and is sup- plied with irrigating ditches and shade-trees. It contained about 175 buildings of all sorts and descriptions, of brick, frame, and log construction, including eight supply-stores for general merchandise, "drug-stores, blacksmith- -shops, saw-mill, bakery, and butcher-shops, barber-shops, a number of saloons, and a post-office, and possessed in addition an enterprising weekly newspaper, the La Plata Miner. Greene’s Reduction Works are in the immediate town, and those of Melville & Summerfield a short distance below. It is the county- -seat of San Juan County, the offices of which are of course located here. Notwithstanding its lack of roads, every- thing indicated present and future prosperity. The great mass of incoming supplies and outgoing shipments of bullion are by pack-trains over the range via Cunningham Gulch. All of its rapid outer-communication is via Lake City, there being a biweekly coach, a private enterprise to that town. To and from Lake City, 4 mails per week, we were informed, were each way exchanged, and during the same time there were 3 ‘from Del Norte. The county officials were again here consulted, and there were found registered for the approaching election in the entire precinct 400 voters, of whom it was estimated that 250 belonged to the town and the balance to the immediate vicinity. The basis of a rude census or an estimate of the population which obtains in the cities and towns of the East is wholly inapplicable in the mining districts. Presuming upon the ma- jority of voters being family men and increasing the number from five to seven times, will there often give an approximate if not an almost accurate result. Here it would be wholly erroneous and great inaccuracy would result. With but few exceptions pro-— APPENDIX SS. 1811 spectors and miners in general in a new country, if married men, leave their wives and families behind them and “bach it,” to use the provincialism. In short, the newer the country and the more inaccessible, the closer do the yoters and the men alone rep- resent the total population. The permanent inhabitants of the town were estimated to be 300, while in summer there were from 300 to 400 floating. The population to Silverton accredited is, therefore, 700, while that of adjoining mining-camps is placed at 400. " ~~. 7.2: -2--------- 2-2-5 - 26. 5 Grande. Piehiaatian ww Chevez Perry .--..-.-2.2252 222225. 22225. 31.5 ; Valdez, or lower ferry, formerly Maken ency TO COUGIOS 22622... 2-0 =... 0012-2 oe. ace 5 18 Myers’s. Conejos to Tierra Amarilla (Las Nutritas) via Ojo Caliente} 150 Conejos to Tierra Amarilla (Las Nutritas) via Cueva ....| 120 Conejos to Tierra Amarilla (Las Nutritas) via the Chama 60. 7 route. See rice to Los'Qjos / 22 2.022 2-0 s0 2 2 eet eee see 2 Chama River forded at Los Ojos. es L108 to rio) Navajo <<. 22s <= <2 2 sie os 2 oe nese -2 = - eo 33. 2 Peet ne fi PAIRCO. 8 oo on we wn 12.3 | > Upper road to Pagosa. THe, blanco to Pagosa Springs. ......--.-----./s2--56---6- 10.6 Conejos to Pagosa via Ojo Caliente -........------...-.-- 208 County-road; lower route. Conejos to Pacosa via Cueva ....-.--..-..-2..---+-+----- 178 County-road ; cut-off. Conejos to Pagosa via the Chama route. --..-...--..----- 114.8 | New toll-road; 12 miles incomplete. Conejos to Pagosa via San Antonio route --.--.----..---- 112.8 | Newtoll-road; constructing. Conejos to Pagosa via Chama-Navajo route ..-...--.----- 77.4 | Proposed United States road; the shortest route West. Pagosa Springs to the Summit District ..-........-.------ 49 Trail up Rio San Juan. Pagosa to Rio Nutria (spring near ranch of Colonel 13 Te ee Bn! BPN eta tO 1OORA fe owoue ese. 6 J258a 2: kek ak TEU d Rio Piedra to Rio de los Pinos .........-...----.----.-- ioe (ee mode tos Pinos to Rio Florida -.......-/....-<------2-.- 13. 6 Rio Florida to Rio de los Animas ...........-...---.----- 5.8 4 . : 13 19.5 | Via toll-road. | ilaiialaaea se as auagonanena {| 18a | Via trail arrott City to East Fork Rio Mancos......-.........--- 11..9 ’ East Fork - West Fork Rio Mancos 5222822 2.tce-2652.5 ay } County-road. Thence to Big Bend Rio Dolores (Camp 64, September 23); 18.7 | Trail. Parrott City to mouth Rio la Plata .......-..-...---.----- 54 Toll-road. Animas City to mouth Rio de las Animas...---.--....--- 58.5 | Trial. pees sity. to Hermosa... 22 2.22252 29/2 ee eee. 8.6 | County-road. Hermosa, via Grand Cation of the Animas, to Silverton..| 38.1 | Wightman’s new toll-road. paverton bo Howardsville,....-..- 2. - --2222.2--42.----5-~ 4.7 | County-road. Howardsville to Lake City, via Animas Forks and Bur- 36. 6 row’s Park. Toll-roads. Howardsville to Lake City, via Mineral City and Hen- 31 sen Creek. 16.3 | Summit of pass, 12,400 feet. Howardsville, via old wagon-road, to Carr’s.......--...-. 22.7 | Pass, 11,900 feet. Howardsville, via Cunningham Gulch and trail over Summit, to Carr’s. Carr’s to Alden’s Junction or Antelope Springs...-....-- | 27 Pom aime ake Oily... 222 eee anid eee (OE RAE eae 33.5 | Toll-road; pass, 11,100 feet. Alden’s or Antelope Springs to Wagon-Wheel Gap...... 16 ~Wagon-Wheel Gap to mouth South Fork Rio Grande..-.| 11.6 t port road down Rio Grande. Pee eee NOTbe -..-. 0500 -b be ee eee ee oe Ee elo Men Wares ithe Summit _...28.1 lieve. css cae ae 27.8 | Toll-road. met wernt Fort Garland -...-2.9 2002-6. deals nese os 60 County-road. Welevorieteiedra Pintada.... 22.64 -sesee. nse os a 15.9 | Thence to La Jara post-oftice on Rio de la Jara.......... 18. 6 | tn San Luis Valley; county-road. Thence to Conejos... -. Re ren ee ah SU es 13.5 1814 REPORT OF THE CHIEF OF ENGINEERS. CHAPTER V.—MINES AND MINERAL WEALTH. Bui little can be told of the difficulties under which a wild and isolated country labors, of the hardships endured by her pioneers and settlers during the transition from a wilderness to that of an established mining region. The trials and sufferings of early explorers in the Rocky Mountains, when bodies of troops, overcome by the severe storms of the winter in pathless forests, narrowly escaped starvation, are already recorded and read like works of fiction. Who shall describe the wonderful adventures and excessive hardships, less worthy of mention but more severe, endured by her early pioneers? Less worthy of portrayal perhaps, in that those who suffered were but on wealth and fortune bent, only selfishly inclined; more severe undoubtedly, since with resources and supples much less and numbers smaller their path was beset with say- ages on whose land they were encroaching, and their march became a conflict, a flight _ from death, and few or none escaped. Careful investigation has failed to establish who were the actual discoverers in each mining district. Of aspirants thereto there often is no end, and information gleaned is often so beclouded as to be useless. In the great Pike’s Peak excitement, which less than two decades ago started west the tidal wave of emigration so rapidly, one was included to whom is accorded the honor of being the most daring pioneer of the San Juan. To the dauntless persever- ance of Baker, more than any other man, the San Juan was indebted for much of the notoriety that gained her immigration and settlement. Eighteen years ago, at the head of a number, like himself, firm believers in the exist- ence of as fine placers in the San Juan as had been found in olden days in California, he started for this region. Six months later, in the winter of 1850~61, another and a larger party left Denver in search of the former, of whom no news had ever been heard. The difficulties of travel may be imagined from the statement that fourteen days were required to cross the mountains at the Sangre de Cristo Pass. Deep snows had to be dug away to secure the grazing for the stock, and when that was impossible, trees were cut to obtain browsing to keep them alive. Fort Garland, at its foot, was passed, and through San Luis Valley the party pushed on, after four months of travel finding Baker and his men in the park now bearing his name. Placer mining alone was then the industry of the country, and prospecting along the river, here and in the Animas Park below, they industriously continued without suc- cess. General disappointment started them back inJuly. At Garland the outbreak of the civil war was learned, the party separated, and Baker, going to Virginia, entered the ° service of his State; returning to Colorado seven years later at the head of another party, he again entered the trackless region. The Gunnison, the Animas, and the La Plata were reached and left behind. Sue- cess was lacking, hardships and Indian attacks were frequent, and his party had dwin- dled to three in all, when Baker himself was shot, it is said, at the mouth of the Colo- rado Chiquito, another was drowned, and the third barely escaped with his life to tell the story of their sufferings. Survivors of the original expedition of 1861 reorganized another party, and in 1869 it started from Prescott, Ariz., for the far-distant region. Continued attacks every- where of treacherous Apaches, and dissatisfaction also, reduced their number from fifty to eight, who finally reached the San Juan and proceeded for the winter to Santa Fé. Leaving there in the following spring this party, increased to twelve, reached Baker’s Park in safety, and the Little Giant Mine was soon after discovered. Again wintering in Santa Fé, the spring of 1871 saw them permanent settlers at Sil- verton, many others following attracted with the hope of similar luck. The reports of the wealth of the new El Dorado gained credence slowly. So many schemes of a ‘“‘ vild-cat” nature are afloat in a new mining country, so many frauds are perpetrated on the unsuspecting, that capitalis wary. It was so with the San Juan. Without trails to pack out the ore when obtained the mine is useless. With trails complete and the dist ince great the cost of transportation swallows the profits. It is roads that are essential, always roads; roads for machinery for reducing the ore, roads for freights to cheapen supplies. They are the first thing a new country needs, espe- cially, it should be added, a mineral region, and as a rule the last thing it obtains. A toll-road is a good and permanent investment, and if there exists any absolute neces- — sity therefor it will repay the principal with high interest. Unfortunately, men do not always pursue their proper vocations, and a road-builder entering a rich mining country, instead of constructing a road, for which he 1s pecu- liarly fitted, generally dabbles in mines like the rest of mankind around him, to which, however, like many of them are, he is altogether unsuited. Mining being a branch of industry, like any manufacturing or commercial business, upon reliable data alone should any dependence be placed. The following table of statistics is therefore furnished, showing the amount of precious metal produced in APPENDIX SS. 1815 the States and Territories west of the Missouri River, including British Columbia, and receipts in San Francisco from the west coast of Mexico, during the year 1877: RRR ie rte ot Ae eg aS re er een ee Ren ate aeelou orale $18, 174, 716 RMR Se Et, re Per, Meare ohetoca aw dos ofa 3/s Seeker ee ee Lue ate in 51, 580, 290 CE en 28 a that. ae icieie, a as Sw ath SAR aie emih eevee ete ilimiao Teas kciniere 8, 113, 755 ETE on So eee = os Salsa pes nvenes n ae ansie ieee globe Bibbs fia ovabkeeics 7, 913, 549 MINE 5, Surah. a pau wi es es Sees ia eure oe eile able ARB Mal ee Boon 2, 644,912 es 1 Ree as CSF a COs Ds OPP Se Ae cates Pegg a ren Pr gear cist) FOR a ee 2, 388, 622 I Ste Sn) ne a rer he as are fe Sete tk ee ae Pee ee, dy Boe; 400 IE eer erie cee ee en ce ee CU ee me a ee ean 1, 432,992 em ft 8) ens Er ee a es a a (an tne Beg Sata'e sal waiciois 1, 500, 000 eye eee ete ei ee te Sd ale in wis ala ta.s 2 sioroe pam ates 1, 191, 997 UM TO PAS TN U IAL eri ds ee ee eel oe eka sion ee ttas cel othe Lelie 190 er ee eee ee oe et aes sue Bump ee Suse 2 379, 010 UIE INE 8 to eae eS Phase Sonn sin cine ches das meow eee 92, 226 ee Te pee eee om ea cep hic one small bam aakbot ones 98, 421, 754 From the above table it will be seen that Colorado occupies the fourth place in the list of precious-metal regions of the Union, Nevada, California, and Utah only preced- ing her. Under the same tremendous impulses of capital, it may be presumed that the time would not be far distant when she would occupy the first or second position. The shrewd, far-seeing operators of the Pacific coast are already unloading, it is said, large quantities of bonanza stock and seeking investments in Colorado. The table given being based upon known shipments, may be considered as proxi- mate only. It will be safe to place the aggregate production for 1877 at one hundred millions, and that for the present year at one hundred and twenty millions, of which amount Colorado may be placed at ten millions. In the San Juan itself it was impossible to obtain accurately her production. The country as a whole, in the light of a mining region, is scarcely advanced beyond the state of prospecting. Mills are wanted everywhere, and thousands of dollars are upon dump-piles for want of amarket. The cost of transportation being excessive, only selected ore is taken for shipment to distant points. Moreover, the machinery having been brought in at enormous cost, a high price for ore treatment must be paid. There is therefore but an exceedingly limited market for low grades, such as would yield a high margin over mining in the old districts of Nevada and California. The value of ore treated by such smelting-works as exist would not, therefore, be an absolute index to the prospective amount of this year’s production. There are numerous points where smelting-works would be fine investments, and if carefully and honestly managed would realize a large amount, if not a moderate for- tune, every year for five or ten years to come. Mining investments in general may be likened to a lottery; the large and handsome prizes are few and far between. But with reduction works it is otherwise. The ore is a staple commodity. Presented to the mill, the smelter carefully samples and ascer- tains with mathematical accuracy and unfailing regularity its average value. He pays an amount far below its market price, in order to realize the heavy margins for which he has invested his capital. He can therefore suffer no loss, save from the total exhaustion of the ore supply of the surrounding country, which is unlikely to occur. | He will therefore enjoy a monopoly for some time to come; and even when competition arrives the output of ore will increase from the discovery of new lodes, so that his investment will still be one of the first class. But, like the building of toll-roads, the sure, safe, and legitimate enterprise is thrown overboard for speculation. That the mill-man will not dabble in one or more mines about him was found, without any exception remembered, the rule. The San Juan is locally subdivided into mining districts. In speaking, therefore, of mineral wealth as it appeared to an ordinary observer, it will be best to consider each district visited in its practical development. The precious metal is mined in the form of both silver and gold, the former pre- dominating. Of the latter the value of the placers is inconsiderable, and upon lodes alone should any dependence be placed. In arriving at the value of a mineral depesit, from a casual examination of speci- mens of its ore, the most learned geologist, the most experienced assayer, may be at fault. Nothing short of a complete assay will give its definite and precise value and worth. The extension of this rule is equally true. The value of a mine can never be wholly determined by any specimen. The market price of the ore in general must alone be taken. In brief, the ‘‘mill-runs,” or prices paid at the smelting-mill or other reduc- tion-works, is the sole standard upon which dependence is to be placed. 1816 REPORT OF THE CHIEF OF ENGINEERS. In giving the ton-value of the ore it is frequently placed in ounces. This is, cor- — rectly speaking, the proper mode, though not always the popular one. At the time of the examination of the mines the value of the standard silver ounce was $1.20. An — increment of one-fifth to the ounce per ton will therefore represent the money value when otherwise denominated. THE SUMMIT DISTRICT is some 27 miles southwest of Del Norte, reached from the latter point by a fine toll- road, and lies mainly upon the slopes of South Mountain, a divide between the water of the North and South Forks of the Alamosa. This is a most remarkable gold district. It may be said to consist chiefly of a single mine; for, while the mountain is covered with stakes, there being in all 2,300 locations upon it, one of them is of immense value, some half a dozen are worth having, and the whole of the rest are not worth $5 at present. No well-defined veins or lodes have as yet been found, as, in true fissure formation, the mineral-bearing rock, consisting of ‘‘rotten” or decomposed quartz, carrying free gold, the metal being free from impurities and more easily milled than any other gold ore in Colorado. The principal mine of the district is the Little Annie, other prominent lodes being the Golden Queen, Major, Yellow Jacket, Ida, Golden Star, Summit, and Odin. The Little Annie having proven very valuable, it was surrounded upon every side with locations, but up to the present time none of these have given positive indica- tions of deposits of the same character and value. Assays of Little Annie ore have varied from a small amount to many thousands of dollars. The average mill-runs have been $102 per ton, the best ore being $150, tail- ings $48, the cost of mining and milling being $12, leaving a large profit to the stock- holders or footholders of the mine. The lode was 85 feet below the surface, the pay- streak, so called, being from 20 to 25 feet wide. This is remarkable as being the highest mine in the world, lying at the edge of timber-line and not far below 12,000 feet, the reduction-works in the gulch at the base of the hill being about 11,200 feet above the sea. This was one of the best paying and most economically managed properties found in the San Juan, and can searcely be surpassed in the whole of Col- orado. At the time of the first visit (June 30, 1877) there had been taken to date from the opening of the mill, as we were informed by Mr. C. E. Robbins, the treasurer and chemist of the company, $105,000, of which $47,000 had been paid out in dividends, the balance being expended in the plant, including a 10-stamp mill, and items of cur- rent expenses. A tramway of over 2,000 feet in length conveys the ore from the dump- pile at the mine to the works below. In June the following stamp-mills were in operation at the Summit, reducing ore of the Little Annie: Number of Daily ca- Name of mill. stamps. | pacity. Tons. CEAGE VO cA Pe ee ee ea ee ok ee RS Se ial Une eal eee ad Me ec ee Sa 10 8 Golden Oneeme's. Se ae wee eng n epee e ye LN a vane ge une ee eins tee meme a 10 8 Golden: Stam fo F221 2h eae te eee eee 0 Pad 24 sae a ies Wine ee al ee ae 10 12 "Pine sArd aise Me es ee ae re oes een 82 1S NY te JS ale oy he 5 4 Sam JW an 1s Sasa oa eae ee te. ella as Bee ga ice ee a ei, oe eae 80 22 The latter was temporarily suspended, undergoing repairs. In addition thereto was the Bowen Mill, of 24 stamps, idle. PLACERS. Presuming, from the existence of the valuable auriferous deposits upon the slopes of South Mountain trending to the north, that valuable bars would be found in the gulch below, the owners of the Little Annie made extensive preparations for placer mining therein. Their anticipations have been more than realized. ‘ A magnificent nugget was shown us, obtained in a ‘cleaning up” early in August, the rock and mineral weighing 54+ pounds. The weight of the gold was estimated at 20 ounces; the value of the gold ounce with premium then existing being $20.67, there would result a ‘‘ find” of over $400. Numerous and varied have been the theories as to the geological character of the deposits upon the mountain, but that it partakes of a pocket or limited nature is ap- ‘parently demonstrated in its surface existence, at least by the results of the bars be- low. In the various cleanings during the placer operations, nothing was realized, from any part of the stream, except from the portion immediately below the mine. APPENDIX SS. | 1817 Wages in June for ordinary hands, $2.50 per day, and board, 35 men being then at work at the Little Annie property. This district was also passed in August and revisited in October. In the three and a half months, June to October 12, 3,200 tons had been treated, the total production ageregating $140,000. ‘Fhe mill of the company, of 10 stamps, being unable to treat all the ore mined, its reduction was let by contracts varying from $8 to $10; loss to company thereby during the season estimated at $20,000. In the examinations of this mine there was noticeable, in an unusual degree, a per- ’ fect system of economy in all the details of the business. The tramway referred to, on which the car at each trip transported to the works below a load of 24 tons of ore, was built in ‘heavy snows and storms, at a cost of but $1.50 per foot. Later during the summer the wages of the hands, which had been $2 in June, were reduced to $1.50, and a tunnel of 100 feet in length, running into the southern face of the mine, was contracted for at $7.50 per linear foot. Tunnel construction elsewhere in the San Juan varied from $15 to $30, according to locality. _ The Ida Mine had several hundred tons upon the dump; assays rich, up to $5,000, but reduction process unsuccessful, the gold escaping the quicksilver and the amalgam yielding only iron. The San Juan, consolidated, has failed entirely, and the panning- mill had been dismantled and the machinery removed in October. No mills were in operation at this latter date, save the Little Annie and Queen, working in all 23 men on ore of the Little Annie. The Odin tunnel was at this time personally examined, there being over 3 feet of snow on the ground. Extent, 48 feet; no results whatever beyond the usual porphyry. THE DECATUR DISTRICT lies upon the South Fork of the Alamosa, directly below and to the south of the Sum- mit, and is also gold. When it was personally visited in October, most of the mines, very few in number, were deserted. Several men, however, were present, working their lodes, the gangue carrying iron pyrites. An arrastra was observed near a collection of abandoned cabins, beside which was an unnecessary large tunnel, being 15 feet by 10 in the clear, of a length of 150 feet, a large dump-pile and a lot of selected ore lying near by. The principal ledes of the district, with their values, as we were informed by miners thereon, are as follows: Star of the West, assaying $85; Carrie, assaying $60; 1776 lode, assaying $50. The water of several streams flowing into the South Fork hereabout was excessively bitter and disagreeable from the alum tastes imparted by the decomposing pyrites throughout their drainage area. Some ore of the Golden Star lode at Sperry’s Mill at the Summit gave a mill-run of $10 per ton. In their bearing on the mineral wealth of the San Juan, the mines of this section, as far as observation extended, may be wholly discarded. Nothing thereof indicat- ing their present or prospective value was anywhere learned. THE ALAMOSA DISTRICT, also a gold region, what there is of it, lies farther below the Decatur, and along the same river. The lodes, when examined in October last, were everywhere abandoned. As a gen- eral factor in the mining interests of the San Juan, this district may be wholly ig- nored. Both the Decatur and Alamosa lie in Conejos County. The region at the head of the Continental Divide, upon the Summit watershed of the Rio San Juan, has been prospected slightly only, and thus far with but little success. In August we were shown a specimen of argentiferous galena from a lode discov- ered, it was said, upon the Upper Navajo. The regions thus far mentioned are outlying and to the east of the great seat of min- eral wealth of the San Juan. To pass directly to outlying points to the west, we reach THE LA PLATA DISTRICT, in La Plata County, upon the river of the same name, about and above Parrott City, and the most southerly mining section of the country. Operations in this district date back several years, when a wonderful activity for a while existed. The capitalists investing here, for whom the town was named, were Messrs. Parrott & Co., of San Francisco. Parties in their interest, and to whom they liberally supplied the required capital, reached this locality from the Pacific coast and began prospecting. Finding from a season’s operations in sluice-mining that a valuable bar existed along the river, preparations fora thorough hydraulic system were entered upon. Through misman- agement or other causes dissatisfaction ensued, and the supplies of capital ceasing all operations were suspended and the camp was, when visited, thoroughly dead. 1818 REPORT OF THE CHIEF OF ENGINEERS. Prospecting for the gold-bearing quartz in the mountains above, whence the placers derived their value, was not neglected; the result was the discovery of the expected veins, and in addition thereto valuable lodes of silver. From the specimens there- from valuable assays in Silverton and Denver, it was said, resulted. They are, how- ever, of a refractory nature, resemble, in certain respects, some ores of the Uncom- pahgre district, and do not yield to the simplest forms of silver reduction. There ex- ists, moreover, it was said, a suspicion of deposits containing tellurium traces, the North Star lode possessing, as we were informed, such constituents. The telluride ores, as is well known, are all of remarkable richness. Such are the prospects; the reality, the present, unless changed since last Septem- ber, is heavily obscured. Prospectors are something like sheep—they are very gre- garious. All that were seen or were met were leaving the section, and spoke despond- ingly of its prospects. The buildings of the town, it may be remarked, are of an unusually fine character for a small mining camp, and it is said to have possessed at one time a summer population of 400 to 500; in September last business, however, was dead and was departing to its younger and more prosperous rival, Animas City. No reduction-works or stamp-mills of any kind were found at the town. This is to be regretted, and is but an illustration of the fact that mismanagement or other causes bhlghting the prospects of a promising camp will deter capital thereafter for entering for a short time, at least, if not for a long period. . Abundantly and not far distant are found the necessary formations for fluxing, while valuable deposits of coal exist upon the La Plata, as they do in sections to its east. THE DOLORES DISTRICT. Prospectors from Parrott City and other points have turned their attention to the slopes at the headwaters of the forks of this river, and a number of lodes have been located, resulting in the organization of subdistricts or small camps lying in La Plata County and in Ouray. The ores are chiefly the carbonates, the mineral being chiefly low grade. Specimens from the district, brought away as part of our general collec- tion, include carbonates containing from 63 to 70 per cent. of lead, and from 136 to 216 ounces of silver, zinc blende and galena, argentiferous galenas of a very low grade, and one with gray copper traces. The district has not advanced beyond the early pri- mary or simple prospecting state, and no excitement was apparent in regard to the prospective fortunes to be realized. THE SIERRA LA SAL. This mountain group, as is well known, owes its name to the large saline deposits there existing. Prospecting for the precious metal has been prosecuted there at inter- vals, and it is reported not without success. Whatever indications have been ob- served, however, have been at the risk of death from the hostile savages who roam to and fro through this region. While upon the Rio Mancos, we were presented with specimens of sandstone silver by Mr. John Grigor, who discovered and located a deposit thereof in the Merit district of the Sierra La Salin Utah. The phenomenal occurrence of the deposition of argen- tiferous mineral in sedimentary matter is not a novelty to geologists, and to its forma- tion allusion were unnecessary. It is of such interest, however, in a mineralogical aspect, that the section although not visited is deemed worthy of note. It need scarcely be repeated that the sedimentary formations outstretching from the bases of the Sierra La Sal are of Cretaceous age. The specimens are very handsome, from the colors of the chlorides, the blue predominating over the green throughout the strati- fication of all the specimens obtained; they are both high and low grade, the latter giving a mill run of $6 to $8, and the assay of the former equaling $166. The inexpensive character of mining operations in such a formation is obvious. An extensive deposit of this nature is reported to have some years since been found in Upper Utah. THE ANIMAS DISTRICT is situated in the San Juan County and along the river whose name it bears. Half a mile above the mouth of Cunningham Gulch, opening into the Animas River, is the dividing line, we were informed, between this and Eureka District, which lies to its north. It includes mainly, therefore, the mines in the gulches and creeks, reaching the Animas and Baker’s Park and those upon the overlooking mountains, chiefly along Cement and Mineral Creeks, Arastra, Boulder, and Cunningham Gulches, and upon Sultan, Anvil, Green, Hazleton, Galena, and King Solomon Mountains. It is the old- est mining district of the San Juan, containing the Little Giant, whose early discovery resulted in the great emigration to the country. It includes some of the most valu- able mines in the valley of the river and within its limits a larger number of lodes APPENDIX SS. 1819 _of a high quality of ore have been located, and in part are being worked, than in any - other district of the San Juan. The ores of this section are argentiferous, with the exception of those of the Little Giant and a few other exceptional ones which have been found to contain gold; in general, therefore, they may be said to be of argentiferous galena, with and without gray copper, occasionally chloride of silver, and in several mines the black‘sulphurets being found. The number of lodes that contain first-class ore is very large, and as there are over 2,000 lodes registered in the county offices at Silverton, and the prospects of all are, in general, very good, the work involved in an examination of this district may be imagined, the mountains being everywhere covered with apparently an inexhaustible quantity of lodes. The most prominent mines are the Little Giant (gold), (now called the Golden Giant) ; Highland Mary, Pride of the West, Philadelphia, Susquehanna, Pelican, Aspen, Green Mountain, Legal Tender, Victor, Little Fanny, North Star, Letter G, Mollie Darling, Pelican, Bull of the Woods, Comstock, Silver Cord, and King Hiram Abiff (gold). Viewed financially, this section labors under more difficulties than any other of the San Juan. With large bodies of valuable mineral within it, the lack of capital and reduction-works keeps them undeveloped. At no place is there so fine an opening for a banking firm. There exists none in the town, and with the activity of trade the scarcity of currency is severely felt; local checks of various kinds, the shinplasters of war times, and drafts on distant banks being had recourse to. . A general résumé, embracing the subdistricts of this section, with their localities, the most advanced mines at the time of visit (last part of September, 1877), and the number of men employed therein steadily during the season, is as follows: Mineral Creek.—Principal lodes, Tornado and Extension; 8 men upon the former, 3 on the latter. Sultan Mountain.—Along its base flows Mineral Creek, emptying into the Animas; over twenty lodes, chiefly low grades, with increased smelting facilities, will pay well; at present nothing less than 100-ounce ores are taken to the mill; during 1877 fully 50 men were constantly at work. The Ajax isthe nearest to town; the Montezuma Tun- nel was in 160 feet, bound for the Ajax ore; various other tunnels prosecuted to con- SE ae depth, the greatest being that of Greene & Co., of a prospecting nature, and in 500 feet. Anvil Mountain, near Silverton. Several lodes, on which assessments alone have thus far been made, are to be worked during the winter. Cement Creek.—This creek has a southerly course to Silverton, the stream forking about 64 miles from town. Up the North Fork, about 23 miles distant, at the mount- ain summits, are the Saxon, Alaska, very rich lodes; Adelphi and Acapulco, over 200 ounces, and many others of less value. The other fork leads to the Animas water- shed, and is opposite Eureka Gulch. Down both forks are trails to the reduction- works at their junction, and along the north fork the trail over to the Uncompahgre passes. At its head and above the forks, over 20 lodes are being developed, in various stages, from simple assessments to 50-foot drifts on the vein; from each, between one and four tons were being shipped. During the season over 50 men were employed. Boulder Gulch, distant from Silverton 24 miles, possesses from 15 to 20 lodes of rich lode ores, from 75 to 100 ounceseach. During the season some 25 men were regularly therein. Hazleton Mountain, distant from Silverton 3 miles, and opposite Boulder Gulch. Most valuable mines are here situated, fully 150 men being at all times there employed, the forces at times being increased to the extent of nearly 400 upon the whole mountain... Its richest mines are the Victor, 10 men; Susquehanna, in 100 feet, 15 men; Aspen, a magnificent one, discovered in 1871, producing nearly 4 tons daily, at a profit of nearly $2,000 per month, and employing 30 men; and the Mammoth, 4 men. The Victoris a very rich deposit, the pay-streak of the lode being of 4 inches of 1,000 ounces, while the inclosing vein in which it is situated is from 5 to 8 feet wide, averaging 65 ounces. A specimen of the collection belonging to the pay-streak of this mine gave an assay of 1,500 ounces. Next in importance come the Legal Tender, tunnel under way 400 feet, 10 men, and the I X L Tunnel, 300 feet; the Prospector, McGregor, Pelican, Tom Paine, Silver Star, Union, and Gray Eagle Lodes, the latter 6 men. The two most im- portant tunnels of the mountain are the Briggs prospecting, 4 men, and the Ingersoll. The latter has already cut the veins of the Victor and the Susquehanna, and is not far from the Aspen. At 500 feet from the surface this tunnel struck an imperfect vein, or ‘‘ blind lode,” which contained nearly two feet of valuable galena, with gray cop- per and sulphurets, and at 700 feet the Susquehanna; its total length was over 800 feet, and its out-put averaged fully two tons daily of rich ore, with a possibility of greatly-increased production, if desired. This was, at the time of our visit, the largest tunnel in the entire San Juan. On this and Sultan Mountain, the mines are in general farther advanced than those of the other subdistricts. Arastra Gulch (also spelled ‘‘Atrastro” upon location certificates of several mines) 1820 REPORT OF THE CHIEF OF ENGINEERS. lies between Hazleton Mountain and King Solomon Mountain and leads into Baker’s Park from the south. King Solomon Mountain having been designated in a map recently issued by the topographer of a government surveying party as the high peak to the north of Howardsville, various parties at Silverton and Howardsville were inter- rogated as to its positive location, all of whom stated that the high peak to the south of Howardsville is locally so known; with relation to gulch boundaries, Arastra Gulch lies upon its western sides, Cunningham upon its eastern. The most prominent mine in Arastra Gulch is the Golden Giant, the Little Giant of old, notorious from early dis- covery and years of litigation, upon which, however, some 10 men have been working during the season. This remarkable mine is worthy of casual mention on account of the phenomenal deposit of its ore. In general, the ores of one district differ radically from those of another, and so also do mines almost contiguous; the smelter of experi- ence can readily designate from external appearances the mines from whence his ship- ments come without reference to the invoices. The main pay-streak of the Golden Giant is very narrow, often but 3 inches in thick- ness, but well defined, within which run two parallel seams of the chloritic ore known as ripidolite, the dark olive-green masses from .2 to .5 inch in thickness containing free gold and finely granular argentiferous galena, which, like the ripidolite, permeates also the intervening quartz. The assay of a specimen of the collection from this mine exceeds $5,000; far greater ones, however, have been frequently made at Silverton, sev- eral running as high as $27,000. The first machinery brought into the San Juan was for this mine in 1872; it was at immense expense, the trip from Del Norte, about 90 miles, occupying 58 days! Arastra Basin, where numbers of very promising lodes are situated, gave permanent employment to over 20 men. Cunningham Gulch is as a whole the farthest developed in the district, within its limits being employed from 100 to 150 men. Galena Mountain, at whose base flows the Animas, towers abové Howardsville, on the east of the gulch. Over twenty lodes were worked there during the season, chiefly low grade, 50 ounces being the average. Green Mountain is on the east side of the gulch, and south of Galena Mountain, being nearer the Continental Divide, where over 35 men have been continually em- ployed. The principal mines are the Little Fanny, Osceola, R. Blum, and Flat Broke, all owned by a company in which the Neigold Bros. and Rodell are largely interested ; the magnificent Pride of the West, and the Philadelphia, 1,000 feet higher and 1,500 feet therefrom, touching its southeast limit, the latter bemg the chief reliance of Nei- gold Bros. Above the Philadelphia to the north and near the summit of the mountain is" the Royal Bengal Tiger, and 5 other lodes, where gold-bearing quartz was discovered. Farther up the gulch are the Green Mountain and several other promising mines. At the upper end of the gulch are the handsome buildings belonging to the mining prop- erty of Mr. Edward Inness of New York City, which will be noticed hereafter. King Solomon Mountain, on the opposite side of the gulch, possesses a large number of lodes, the most valuable being the Highland Mary, employing in its entire establish- ment over 50 men, and the North Star, where some 25 were continually at work. From a point near the Highland Mary Works may be had one of the finest views in the San Juan of the immense extent and well-defined character of its mineral veins. From the side of Green Mountain the various lodes may be seen exposed upon the sur- face from the bottom of the gulch up, and entirely over the face and summit of King Solomon Mountain opposite, which is over 2,000 feet above the gulch at this point. The whole face of the mountain, it has been found, is covered with a multitude of lodes, forming almost a net-work upon its surface. The general direction, however, of the great mineral belt is to the northwest and southeast. The subdistricts may be concluded with Kendall Mountain, upon which are situated a large number of locations, possessing 20 that were being developed, though scarcely at the time (September 30) beyond the stage of assessment work. . While they may de- velop richer deposits on deeper mining, they could at the time scarcely be considered as averaging over low-grade ores, most of them not making mill runs of over 80 ounces. The mining wages in general paid to workmen about Silverton were found to be $3 per day and board, or $3.50 to $4 on their ‘‘finding” themselves. * In order to give a clearer idea of the work and capital involved in the development of a mining district like the Animas or any of its subdistricts, it may not be amiss to mention the preliminary steps that are essential. In the entire San Juan the discoverer of a vein or lode is allowed a surface area of 1,500 feet along the vein, or 150 wpon each side of the vein and perpendicular thereto. The planting of a stake containing the location notice and the designation of its boundaries holds the ‘‘mine” for the period of sixty days, by the end of which time a 10-foot shaft must be sunk or a vertical exposure of 10 feet of the vein be made, to prevent its being “jumped,” or taken by the first comer. With a month or ninety days from the date ot the discovery stake, the location certificate must be filed in the office of the county recorder. The amount of work necessary upon a lode to file this certificate is generally known as the first assessment, a certain amount in accordance with the requirements APPENDIX SS. 1821 of national statutes being annually required to prevent forfeiture. It therefore follows that while a large number of locations may be indicative of promising mineral deposits, that fact alone does not decide the wealth of the district. Without thorough develop- ment the richest vein is as valueless as the most worthless prospect hole. The facilities for reducing the immense quantity of ore mined in the Animas district were found to be as follows: The smelting-works of George Greene & Co., located at Silverton, have been highly successful, owing to the efficient business management of the proprietors. Their works have, without doubt, greatly aided in the development of the district, and have an assessed value of $25,000, their probable worth being $75,000; the original cost, it was stated, having been $60,000, owing to the great expense of transporting machinery over the range at the time of their erection. They were employing in all 35 men, working night and day shifts, with a daily reduction of 10 tons of ore, which is less than the full capacity of the works, producing therefrom 4 tons of bullion. The bull- ion, as is generally done, is run into bars of an individual pattern, those of the Greene stamp varying in weight from 70 to 85 pounds each. The bars are then placed upon mules or burros (jackasses), and packed over the range, via Cunningham Gulch, to a point on the Rio Grande road, whence they are conveyed by wagon transportation to the railroad at Garland City. Shipment, therefore, is by freight, to refining-works at Saint Louis or some point in the East. The bullion is silver and lead, the latter pay- ing for the transportation of the precious metal. The iron and limestone, essential for the flux in the usual roasting process followed, are found near by. No coal being convenient, charcoal is solely used. With the opening of the Wightman road through the Grand Cafion of the Animas, Mr. Greene stated that he could draw his supplies of fuel from the coal-banks of the Florida or the Animas. The working season is seven months in length, during which the expenses attendant upon smelting, wages, and ore supplies involved an outlay averaging $1,200 daily. On account of the absence of a good road down the Rio Grande and the expense attendant upon packing, no ore was being purchased at the Greene works which was of a lower grade than 75 ounces. For some time these smelting-works have been in pos- session of a comparative monopoly of the business. The proprietors were Boston capitalists and own a number of valuable mines in the district. Melville and Summerville’s Reduction Works were noticed upon Mineral Creek, below Silverton. The main building was a fine four-story brick, about 100 feet by 75, with extensive sluicing. The building was idle and not subject to examination. The building was generally known in Silverton as the ‘‘ Lightning Amalgamation Works,” and on account of their being unsuccessful were apparently public laughing- stock. The estimated cost was given at $25,000, and, in all probability, considerably _ exceeded that figure. The intended capacity was 20 tons daily, the ore to be largely or entirely drawn from mines owned by the company upon Sultan Mountain. The pro- cess was by desulphurization without fluxing. In the trials made with the sulphurets - it was said that while the excessive heat drove off much of the baser constituents, the separation of the sulphur was not wholly complete. In Philadelphia, we were also informed, the same company had in successful operation works of similar nature, and to.the great altitude was attributed in part the resulting failure. Subsequent to our visit, we were informed the works were to be remodeled and putin working order for the season of 1878. Dow & Waters Reduction Works, located on Cement Creek, at the junction of its forks. These works were being finished and were not yet in operation. Their esti- mated value completed was $30,000. The mode of reduction was to be by lixiviation or chlorination, commonly called the “leaching” process, with a reported capacity of 20 tons per day. The above includes all the various enterprises for operating upon ores below How- ardsville. This town, upon the Animas at the mouth of Cunningham Gulch, possesses a small crusher and reverberatory furnace, belonging to Mr. Innes, the proprietor of the Highland Mary. The Neigold Concentration Works, locally so called, are situated in Cunningham Gulch; not far distant from Howardsyille. This property consists of five frame build- ings with extensive flumes and connecting sluicing; the structure containing a small crusher and a five-stamp battery for the concentration of ores. These works are the property of the Las Animas Mining and Reduction Company, a stock company about one-half of which is owned by the Messrs. Neigold & Roedell, and the balance by Philadelphia capitalists. In their construction $22,000 was expended, which would be deemed extravagant were it not for the excessive price of labor and material and the exorbitant cost of machinery, which had to be brought over the range by pack- trains. The Messrs. Neigold & Roedell possess in addition to the above works large in- terests in several mineral deposits in the vicinity, of which the most important is the Philadelphia lode. Their property is as a whole valuable, and large profits would be realized to the stockholders if a more energetic management were pursued. - 1822 REPORT OF THE CHIEF OF ENGINEERS. The concentration of ores until great reduction facilities abound must continue to be a very lucrative business in the vicinity of Silverton, with its lack of transportation facilities. If the Messrs. Neigold were to increase the capacity of the works from 5 stamps to 20 or 25 drills they could obtain plenty of custom work, and the ratio of expense would be much ‘than at present. The Philadelphia is undoubtedly a most promising mine, the ore being mainly argentiferous galena, with large quantities of tetrahedrite or gray copper, and indi- cations of chlorides of large value. In the specimens of this mine, belonging to the general collection made, all these constituents could be clearly seen; assays made at Silverton of ore of the chloride nature gave very large values, up to $10,000. The pay-streak is narrow, being from 6 toy10 inches, while the general mill-runs have been well paying in all eases. Its situation is in itself presumptive evidence thereof, being 1,000 to 1,500 feet above and in the nature of a spur of the Pride of the West. This is further attested by the pur- chase of the ore at Greene’s works, placing it at once in the category of high grades. Instead of being worked by its owners, it was during 1876 leased to four miners, who cleared individually therefrom $700 by the end of the season, or $2,800 in all. The Pride of the West lode, on Green Mountain, on the east side of Cunningham Gulch and some 1,500 feet above the bottom, is one of the richest mines in the district. It was discovered in 1874, and owned by five men, has been constantly, but slowly, worked, and in its steady development demonstrated what can be done by persever- ance and muscle without capital. The gangue of the lode is gneiss, and the absolute width of the vein, strongly and clearly defined, within and throughout which paying mineral is found is 35 feet. It contains a pay-streak which averages five feet of solid argentiferous galena, with tetrahedrite or gray copper in quantity sufficient to give the ore a high-grade standard. Large amounts of this ore, giving a mill-run of 250 ounces, have been sold at Greene’s works. A picked specimen belonging to the collection gave an assay of $8,000. The adit dimensions were at the most narrow point 6 feet high by 44 wide; the length of tunnel and drifts was 100 feet, constructed at a cost of $15 per foot, with mining wages $3 per day and board, the ore being gotten on the dump for $5 per ton. Since its discovery in 1874, 200 tons have been removed; 10 tons daily are easily taken out, with a facility for 50 tons were there increased facilities for reduction at Silver- ton, Greene’s works being at all times overcrowded. For ore of 60 ounces at the lat- ter place $10 was received, and higher prices at schedule rates for that of a greater value. For 60-ounce ore a ready market exists at Lake City, from $40 to $50 being obtained. In consequence thereof a considerable quantity of ore of the Aspen and other mines finds its way to the latter point, notwithstanding the great cost of trans- portation, which varies from $35 to $40, or about $1 per ton permile. For a quantity of the Pride of the West, shipped to Crooke’s works at Lake, $65 per ton more, it was said, was received than was paid at the Silverton mill. Some 500 pounds of picked ore of this mine gave a mill-run at Crooke’s of 910 ounces. Of the great value of the mineral wealth of the Pride of the West some estimate may therefore be formed. The es had. been offered $100,000 for their mine, but had refused it, their price being 150,000. Illustrative of the mining operations here, which may be taken as a sample of a partially developed lode of the San Juan, are three drawings (Figs. 1, 2, and 3, Plate 6), in plan and section, showing relative locations of adit and original point of dis- covery, of the tunnel, the drifts, vein, and richest pay-streak. The Highland Mary, lying in the upper part of Cunningham Gulch, is a magnificent property, a group of works below, and handsome buildings, romantically situated far- ther up upon the mountain-side, the whole the prettiest and most expensive estate belonging to any individual in the entire San Juan. They are part of an extensive property embracing the Highland Mary and other mines, are owned by Mr. Edward Inness, of New York City, and deserve more than passing mention. His investments and capital in works and buildings of various kinds, mining property, roads, &c., mainly lying in the gulch and on King Solomon Mountain, aggregate $175,000. The only outlay in excess of this anywhere observed in the San Juan was that of a firm in and about Lake City, amounting to $250,000; it was, however, not an individual enterprise, so that to Mr. Inness must be ascribed the distinction of being the most enterprising and extensive operator in the San Juan. The superintendent of his works, a practical engineer and metallurgist, was Maj. H. D. Whittemore, previous to the civil war in the regular Navy, and subsequently with the Army in the volunteers, but of late years with the Ingersoll Drill Company. The mining property of Mr. Inness, in detail, consists of eighteen locations; there being 400 feet on the Highland Mary proper, 1,509 feet on the Robert Bruce, the western extension of the Highland Mary, the W. H. Nichols being the eastern; 1,500 feet on the Long Tom, 2,000 feet on the Royal Tiger, 1,500 feet on the Mountain Boy, 1,500 feet each on extension No. 1, No. 2, No. 3, No. 4, and No. 5, all located in Cunningham Gulch and on King Solomon Mountain. i STR RRNA CRN Ma \ Sy RES Od NS Ny aay if By, \ XX \ SY \ IXY ‘ eS AS SAN RAY \ : RMS AN MAY \\ BAN RIA AX ANN SON ie) BASXenn NAY NAA Ay) yy BANS SY WN . VA WN WAAAY Pride of ti BESO | J SORRO A R a f Ae . \ RNY si LX AE We x ‘ \ XN ¥ > 8 AY She Ny AY \\ WW \ < x YO SN WN QQ i wi A AK \ \\ A\ WE KG MY MMH WX Sy AQ any \ Operations. CUNNINGH ; Ce AL. eee ere ete Sees ee et ae ge a ee en ne reenter te nent ee ta . et a ene a re ae ee er arene eet ae Oe Re See a ae Senn mee ee mae fas Sa me ae es rt meen NS Elevation g SS GLEEOI OPE QRAAVAFSS re , / ENA KN 2 Sectton EXSY \ “Pride of theWest of WG Adit RSQ WG Pride of the West Lode. SN AS Q@ Sv LA “yy . Point of discovery . Dumpzrile at do. _ Mouth of Gunnel Caburs Dump pile from adit Direction of-ore vein « ..@auge of the vein, -gneiss Plan of Tunnel and Drifts onthe Pride of the West Lode, _Blachsnith shop Fig. 3. ik 2.Tunnel with Trail track 3... Drifts ._Marrevetin ore _ . Heavy stveale of 5 feet 6. Rich pay streak of gray copper 4 oa Operationsin CUNNINGHAM GULCH, the head of the Gulch. SX .... Location of turuel > _Direction of lade of SSS the Iightand Mary. SN SN Location of Hightand Mary Works -\: and Cuninghan Gulch from the North. a, F brat dni one "hag THaQE fO3' eae t AA eR tee atlas onan Sow one. Je nde eb aeks ms os 1HiG. beer lsu Oy alk licerc st ots yy he pias pferr etge. F Bratt pide i nilinire. bear ip ares. MOS TIA fan 'shireba tect ie isbrise: eee ide treet TS a. dst AT The cahk ott eeeenitens it 3 . doverbyseds aoe pe ‘api att sy petertetiony ree , wort ter 4G booed te gt di Vininr ie edo