BANCROFTS
ToURIST^S GUIDE:
• YOSEMITE.^
SAN FRANCISCO AND AROUND THE BAY, ( SOUTH. )
SAN FRANC/SCO : A. L. BANCROFT 6- COMPANY, 1871. < •
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Entertd according to Act of Congress, in the j'ear 187 1,
By A. L. BANCROFT & CO.,
In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C.
Bancroft's Steam Printing, LithographbTg", foigVaVing aiid Book-binding Establishment, San Francisco, Cal.
CONTENTS.
Preface, - - - 4
Introduction, ' 7
Routes and Expenses, - - 13-24
YosEMiTE Valley, '. . . 25
The Big Trees, Calaveras, 52
Mariposa, 57
Other Groves, 67
Bower Cave,
72
Alabaster Cave, 77
Index to San Pkancisco, 89
San Francisco, g^
Excursion Routes, 205
Sacramento, 232
Stockton, 243
Oakland, 209
San Jose, 212
Mt. Diablo, - 227
Lake Tahoe, 250
Donner Lake, 25 1
265087
PREFACE.
This is a Pocket Guide to Yosemite Valley and the Big Trees, with the best routes thither and thence. It also includes San P rancisco with the cities, towns, caves, mines and beaches within a hundred miles south and east of this city.
We have tried to make it accurate and reliable in all state- ments of routes, distances, time required, conveyances, fares, hotels, rates, etc., making a snug, neat and tasteful book, to be sold at a low rate on all overland trains and ocean steamers bound hither, meeting all tourists, excursionists and travelers some hundreds of miles before they reach San Francisco, posting them on all the most attractive spots in the State, and answering in advance all necessary questions, thus enabling them, before setting foot in the city, to plan their excursions, decide upon routes, choose conveyances, select hotels, and calculate expenses. And then, when they have actually been over the whole ground, and thoroughly tested it, find everything ^^just as the book said J'"'
True, we already have three or four costly volumes, written for a similar purpose, but we claim that for the ordinary use of the average tourist this is superior to any or all of them in at least three important particulars:
1st. It omits all tedious, long-drawn, and unnecessarily minute descriptions, which may occasionally suit some very critical or scientific tourist, but whose chief value is to guide the traveler's money into the publisher's pocket.
2d. It contains brief descriptions of all the most notable curi- osities and wonders of the State. Its statements are drawn from the latest official scientific sources, or taken from the personal
PREFACE.
observation and actual measurements of the writer, made ex- pressly for this work.
3d. It is compact and economical of time, space and money, none of which the tourist usually cares to waste or lose or throw away.
The public have called for it, and we have done our best to respond, with the material, and in the time, at our command.
That it contains no mistakes we do not claim, but that it in- cludes fewer than any similar book we confidently affirm. We have availed ourselves of every practicable source of reliable information up to date, June, 1871.
In a new and fast-growing State, like ours, where railroad companies sometimes lay nearly a league of track a day, it is simply impossible that any publication should remain perfectly accurate in every particular, even for twenty-four hours after its issue.
We pledge ourselves to disappoint no reasonable expectation, and shall thankfully receive and gratefully appreciate any cor- rection or later information which any traveler, railroad, stage or saddle-train agent, or hotel manager, will kindly commu- nicate.
In response to many calls, constantly repeated, and now pressingly urged, we offer this little Common -sense Hand-book Guide, which truthfully tells tourists just
Where to go ; How far it is ; How to get there ;
When to start ; Whom to stop With ; How LONG IT takes; and, How much it all costs.
San Francisco, Cal., June, 1871.
YOSEMITE,
You are going to Yosemite. Of course you are. What else did you come to California for ? The idea of a man in his right mind, having the slightest love of beauty, grandeur and sublimity, coming to California and not going to Yosemite! W hy, it's pre- posterous; it's incredible; it's impossible. We may as well dis- miss the thought at once. Of course you go. So that's settled.
Now, when will you go ? If you have means and are sure of time to see all the wonders and beauties which the State offers, then might you wisely and safely leave the best until the last; that is, reserve Yosemite for your final trip before you return. But, lest time or cash should fail, or sudden summons hasten your departure, it is wisest and safest to make sure of it at once while you may. It would never do to go back East, confront inquiring friends, and have to humbly confess that you had been to California, but had not seen Yosemite.
Then, how shairyou go. If you are fresh and strong, with the nerve and muscle of a young and enthusiastic college pedes- trian, you can do it on foot, as Bayard Taylor did Europe. It's the most independent and enjoyable way of all if you have time and disposition, and no ladies in your party. If you should vf'i^h. to try that, get a copy of the Overland Monthly for July, 1870, turn to the article " Yosemite on Foot," and you have your guide.
If you haven't time or ambition to distinguish yourself by emu- lating Weston, you may possibly contemplate an excursion on hoofs. Several parties have done Yosemite on all fours, and report a tough American nag, or a wiry little Mexican mustang as an indispensable auxiliary. Parties who wish to avoid the sense of dependence, as well as the pecuniary expense of hiring
8 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
■
a stable horse, frequently buy a tough native horse for seventy- five or a hundred dollars, use him for the entire trip, with no expense beyond that of daily feeding, keep him until they have finished their tour, and then sell him for nearly as much, ii^gome cases even more, than they paid.
Mounted in this way you accomplish a sort of vicarious pedes- trianism, gladly substituting equine hoofs for human heels, while the animal himself rejoices in a responsible backer in the bifur- cated person of your bestriding self ; or, still again, it may be — it probably does be, as our little four-year-old says— that you are too fashionably lazy, — I beg pardon, I meant to say, it is possi- ble that you have inherited a constitutional aversion to protract- ed exertion, which, by long indulgence, has quite unfitted you for the thoroughly manly or womanly pursuit of grandeur, beau- ty, and pleasure in the saddle— chasing health on horseback.
One other way remains, before you fall back upon the fashiona- ble and feeble way of " being carried '' 'in the regular, orthodox and popular style, which suffers you to attempt no personal ex- ercise beyond " the heavy looking on." You may combine sad- dle and wagon : that is, take a strong wagon, carrying tent, provisions and cooking apparatus, with one or two of the more unskillful riders on the seat, while the others in the saddle re- volve as equestrian satellites around.
But if you decide, as most do, and as you probably will, to take no responsibility and cumber yourself with no care, you se- lect one of the various public routes, seek out its agent, make your contract, give up all planning and providing on your own part, pay over your coin, take your tickets for the round trip, commit yourself to one of the various lines of public conveyances, dismiss all anxiety and give yourself up to receive and absorb all the pleasure that may lie along the route, or await you at its end.
And if your object is simply enjoyment, untroubled by exer- tion, and unmixed with anxiety, that is, undoubtedly, the" best way.
YOSEMITE.
You are in San Francisco, at the Grand, at the Occidental, at the Lick House or the Cosmopolitan. In their luxurious beds you have slept off the fatigue of thirty-three hundred miles across the continent, and at their bountiful tables you have fed yourself into courage and spirit for new and further enterprise. Youiiave come forth so fresh and brave that you feel ready for eight thous- and miles more, straight across the tranquil Pacific ; or climbing, unaided, the loftiest vertebral peak of that spinal range which furnishes the backbone of the continent. Your new vigor has let off its frothy effervescence in sundry spasmodic dashes about the city and around its suburbs. You have driven to the Cliff House, interviewed the seals, climbed Telegraph hill, rusticated at Woodward's, spent an afternoon at Bancroft's, crossed to Oak- land, inspected Alcatraz and Fort Point, and, in short, complet- ed the little day-trips and half-day tours which so restfully en- tertain the newly-arrived traveler, gradually acclimate him to our occidental air and familiarize him with our cosmopolitan people. You feel strong and fresh : ready for the grand excur- sion. All your drawing-room and dining-table suits are snugly packed in trunks, folded away in drawers or carefully hung in wardrobe or clothespress. The roughest, strongest and warmest suit in your possession you have donned. Specially provide good stout, yet easy, boots or shoes, with the softest and most comfortable of socks or stockings. Remember that every day brings two climates, a cool or even cold one for morning and evening, with a hot and dusty noon sandwiched between. Um- brellas and rubber blankets you won't need, though a good trav- eling shawl will serve you frequently and well. Stovepipe hats are an abomination — a hard hat of any shape, first cousin to it, and the extra wide brimmed ladies' picnic hat, closely akin to both. Browns, drabs and grays are your best colors ; linens and woolens your best materials ; fine flannels next the skin, and especially provide plenty of something soft and thick to come between you and the horse, during the necessary miles in the
BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
saddle. This last is not a matter of choice, but of necessity. Calculate to spend at least -two weeks in the valley, and allow two or even three days each way for your trip in and out. Of course you can go faster and quicker if you wish or must, but of all Recursions imaginable, Yosemite most needs deliberation and leisure. These are precisely the two things of which the aver- age American tourist has the least. Whence it has happened that very few indeed, especially of our own countrymen, have ever really visited Yosemite. Hundreds have dashed in, plunged around and rushed out. Horace (}reeley staid about as long as it would take him to rush off one of his patent chain-lightning, hieroglyphic Tribune editorials.
He rode in at midnight, reached his lodging at one o'clock in the morning, too tired to eat, and too sore to tell of it; went to bed, sick, sore and disgusted. Up late next morning, so lame he could hardly sit in his saddle, hobbled hurriedly around three or four hours, and was on his way out again at a little afternoon.
Many of the grandest sights he didn't even catch the remotest glimpse of; those he did see he just glanced at, too weary to appreciate their slightest beauty, and too hurried to allow him- self time to begin to grow to the true scale of their grandeur; and having given to the whole valley about one quarter of the time necessary to thoroughly study, intelligently enjoy and qeartily appreciate the least of its wonder-, he has the presump- tion to fancy he has ''been to Yosemite." The fact is, he never really saw a single object about the valley, except, possibly, the giant cliff, Tu-toch-ah-nu-lah, which, as he says, looked as if it might have leaned over and buried him beneath its vastness, and which, as I say, would, doubtless, have done so speedily, had it known that the shabby rider who shambled along under its base that moonlight night, sore at one end, sleepy at the other, and sick all the way between, was going to rush off and talk so inad- equately, unworthily and even untruthfully about objects which no human eye ever did see or could see in the condition of his
YO SEMITE,
sleep-oppressed optics on that slumbrous August morning. He has the cheek to declare that the fall of Yosemite is a humbug. It would be interesting to know what the fall thought of Greeley. One thing is sure, all earlier and later visitors unite in the opin- ion that the only humbug in the valley that year went out of it in his saddle about three o'clock on that drowsy August afternoon, and has never since marred the measureless realities which he sleepily slandered. The simple fact is, Mr, Greeley saw the little which he did see three or four months too late in the sea- son. If he ever comes again, at the right time, and stays to really see the wonders of the valley, he will be heartily ashamed of what he then wrote, and freely pardon his present critic. Meantime, exit H. G. We bear thee no malice. The soul that can see and feel as little as thine did in Yosemite provokes no anger, but only sorrow and compassion. For the sake of thy sore and raw and sadly-pummeled body, we freely forgive the terribly shaken soul that inhabited it on that memorable midnight when horse and saddle maliciously united in assault and battery on th^ most sensitive portion of thine editorial corporosity . Vale, Greeley, vale. The next time thou comest hither, wear what hat thou likest and match it with what suit may please thee best, but if thou lovest life, and wouldst see good days, tell, oh Horace, tell the truth.
Pardon our digression to Greeley. We have spent so much time on him, not because he occasionally scribbles illegible manu- script for a new and struggling paper in a small eastern village, but because he came faster, arrived sorer, stayed fewer hours, saw less of the valley, and slandered it more than any one else has ever attempted.
Olive Logan spoke disparagingly of the Yosemite Fall, but the Fall is still there. She adds some slanderous remarks about the conduct of the drivers along the route, to which the only fitting answer would be these questions: " When a man or a woman all alone in a room, looks into a mirror, and doesn't see a gentle-
12 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
man or lady reflected therein — whose fault is it? Is the difficulty in the glass or va. front of it ?
But let us start. From San Francisco to Yosemite there are three routes. All of them carry one, first, to or near Stockton, which city we reach by rail or river, and all of them bring us, at last, into the valley by one of the only two trails which enter it. Between the outer ends of these trails and Stockton, or vicinity, lie the various intermediate places or way 'stations which have given name to the routes which pass through them, and concern- ing which the tourist chiefly needs reliable information.
Looking upon any good map, not drawn in the exclusive inter- est of some one of these . rival routes, you can easily see for yourself, spite of all agents' representations, which is the' most direct way, geographically or topographically .
We now mention these in regular order, reckoning from north to south; that is, down the map, as we used to say at school. For convenience, we may distinguish the three routes as the upper or north route, the middle route, and the lower or south route.
Big Oak Flat Route.
The upper or north route is commonly called the Big Oak Flat ^ or the Hutchings route. If we go by this, we can either go di- rectly into the valley, or make a detour by way of the Calaveras Big Trees. The following table showing distances, times and conveyances, by the straight and quick way.
TO YOSEMITE VALLEY — DIRECT.
|
From |
To |
Miles. |
Hours. |
By |
|
San Francisco |
Stockton |
90 28 24 14 32 II |
10 4 4 |
Steamer. |
|
Milton |
Car. |
|||
|
Milton |
Chinese Camp Garrote ramerack Yosemite |
Stage. |
||
|
Chinese Camp Garrote |
||||
|
Tamarack |
Saddle. |
|||
|
. |
199 |
27% |
BIG OAK FLAT ROUTE.
By the above way you leave San Francisco at four o'clock p.m., from the vs^harf, at the foot of Broadway, by one of the California Pacific Railroad Company's steamers for Stockton. You have a fine afternoon and sunset view of San Francisco, the shipping, Oakland, Yerba Buena and Alcatraz Islands, the Golden Gate, Angel Island, Mount Tamalpais, San Quentin, San Pablo Bay, Vallejo, Mare Island, Suisun Bay, Benicia, Martinez, and Mount Diablo. Those who have crossed the continent by rail find this sail a pleasant change. They avoid the dust, get a good night's rest on the steamer, reach Stockton at from two to three o'clock in the morning, breakfast at six, and at seven take the cars of the Stockton and Copperopolis Railroad from the station near the landing. We reach Milton, twenty-eight miles, at 8.20, find the stage waiting, and immediately embark, and are off at once. The road lies through a mountainous country, well timbered. The air is clear and invigorating, and the scenery sublime. The road is good, the stages first-class, and the drivers obliging.
About one we reach Chinese Camp, and after twenty-four miles staging are ready for a half-hour's rest and a good dinner; or, we may wait for both until we reach Garr'ote, fourteen miles farther. Here either of two gooS hotels will feed and lodge us. Next morning we'd better dress for the horse-back ride in the af- ternoon. Lay aside all superfluous luggage and pack your extra nice clothing, if you have been foolish enough to bring any, in your valise. A small hand-satchel you can pack behind you on the horse, o»-take it before you. Let it be as small and snugly- packed as possible. One word further, and a most important one, especially to ladies. Calculate to ride astride, and dress for it. You can wear a long skirt to Tamarack, but beyond it is a nuisance. A woman who has only one leg, or has two on one side, may have some excuse for the unnatural, ungraceful, dan- gerous and barbarous side-saddle. The last word was prompted by rememlfcring the raw back of the beautiful horse which car- ried Miss Dix into the valley, under the old, conventional, side-
14 BANCROI^T'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
saddle. The lady is, unquestionably, a noted philanthropist, but that poor horse probably never suspected it. Anna Dickin- son rode in man-fashion, arrived fresh and strong, and so did her horse. Ask her animal if he wants to carry that lady again and he'll never say nay (neigh). On a trip like this the side-saddle is barbarous to the horse and dangerous to the rider. The on^y good thing about it is that it jolts and racks and strains and tires thft rider so outrageously, that it is fast converting many women to the sensible and safe way.
From Tamarack Flat the road dwindles to a trail, winds among pine trees, crosses an occasional rivulet, commands a fine ' outlook through the trees, now and then, and finally, almost be- fore you know it, brings you to the brink of the valley. Thence let your horse have his head. He'll take care of himself and you too — land you safely at the foot of the trail, and deposit you at Hutchings' by five or six o'clock, in good time for the am- ple dinner which will be waiting.
If you wish to take the Calaveras Big Trees on your way, youn can do so, either going or coming, by taking the same general route as far as Milton, to which place the times, distances, and conveyances are the same as in the table already given. From Milton you take stage through Murphy's to Sperry & Per- ry's hotel, where, you dine in the very shadows of the Big Tree grove. Having stayed among the vegetable monsters as long as you can, you return thence by stage to Sonora, twenty-nine miles; time six hours; from Sonora to Garrote, also by stage, twenty- five miles in five hours, and then you strike the same road which you would travel by going directly in, so that the conveyances, time and distances of the former table will also serve you hence. As we said a few paragraphs back, these two routes are not really separate and distinct routes, as nearly one hundred and twenty miles on the western end, and about fifty miles at the eastern end, are the same in both. The time occupied in gwing or com- ing by the way of the trees is twelve and one half hours more
COULTERVILLE ROUTE.
than by the direct route, and the fare is seven dollars more, be- sides, of course, the expense of one night's lodging and two meals more on the route, than will be necessary to one going directly in.
The second route, the midd)e one, is the
Coulterville Route.
so named from the principal town through which it passes, which took its own name from General Coulter, who still manages the business of the line.
By this route you leave San Francisco at four P. m, by cars on Central Pacific Railroad ; change cars at Lathrop for Modesto, arriving same evening. Remain over night at the Ross House, James Cole, proprietor, and leave by stage at eight A. M. for Coulterville, forty-eight miles, ten hours, arriving at six P. M.
You dine at La Grange, twenty-eight miles from Modesto. Stay all night at Wagner's Hotel, Coulterville, where supper, lodging and breakfast cost you $2,50.
Next morning rise early, take a good hot breakfast, leave Coulterville at five o'clock for Gobin's Ranch at Crane's Flat, thirty miles, where you are due at twelve. Dine at Gobin's for $1.00. At one o'clock leave Gobin's by saddle train, arriving at Black's Hotel, in the valley, fifteen miles, at six P. M., thus taking it leisurely, especially down the mountain-side trail into the valley, where no animal can go fast and keep his feet, and no rider can hurry and save his neck.
Returning, leave the valley at six in the morning, and reach Gobin's, Crane Flat, at eleven, taking five hours, the same time as when going in, as horses can go full as fast up the trail as down. Dine at Gobin's, as when going in. Leave Crane Flat at twelve, and reach Coulterville at half past five, where the same hotel, Wagner's, accommodates you with supper, lodging and breakfast, and at the same rates as before.
Leave Coulterville at six next morning, and drive twenty-eight miles to Roberts', where we dine, at noon. From Roberts' to
i6 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
Modesto is twenty miles. We are due at Modesto at from four to half past four P. M. From Modesto we may take cars for Stockton and Sacramento*, at five, and go through direct to either of those places. But if we wish to return to San Francisco, we stop at Lathrop, in a station where an excellent dinner or supper can be had for 75 or 50 cents; and wait until eleven p. M., when a freight train, with sleeping car attached, comes along,* and bring us to San Francisco at half past seven next morning.
This route gives regular rest, takes one through a beautiful and picturesque country, from the fact that, after striking the foot- hills, it lies along the dividing ridge Ijetween the Tuolumne and Merced rivers. On the east lies the Sierra Nevada, with Castle Peak, Mount Dana, and other prominent points, while westward it commands a view of the San Joaquin Valley and the Coast Range. To this may be added the fact that as a good part of the road runs east and west, and as the prevailing winds are northerly, the dust is blown away to one side instead of along with you.
Another and very great advantage of this route is that, from and after the fifteenth of this month, June, 1871, it will run stages to the very brink of the valley, leaving but two and a half miles of saddle riding to the valley below, and only seven miles on horseback to the hotels. This same advantage will then be true, also, of the Big Oak Flat, or Hutchings' route, which enters the valley by the same trail.
Mariposa Route.
This is the lower, or southern route, taking its name from that of its chief town, Mariposa, once famous as the seat of Fre- mont's famous "estate," with its gold mines of supposed ex- haustless wealth.
This route takes one by California Pacific Railroad from San Francisco, through Lathrop to Modesto, one hundred and one miles ; thence ninety -six miles of staging, through
MOKELUMNE HILL ROUTE. 17
Snelling's, Hornitos, Bear Valley, and White & Hatch's (stop over night) to Clark & Moore's, at the end of stag- ing. From Clark's to the brink of the valley, by saddle, is twenty-three miles, and thence to the hotels, seven miles; making a total of thirty miles horseback riding. As an offset to this the Mariposa Route claims the advantage of the view from Inspiration Point, which lies nearly a mile off the direct trail, and for grandeur and beauty ip certainly all that can be claimed or desired.
Besides the view from Inspiration Point, this route also pre- sents the attraction of the Mariposa Big Trees,, six miles from Clark's, and requiring an additional expense of $2.50 for each horse, besides the cost of another day's board and the fee of the guide.
The Calaveras trees, while equally grand and beautiful and even loftier, have the great advantage of an excellent hotel in the very midst of them, so that the tourist can spend much more time in rambling among their mo.numental bulks.
Besides the three routes already named, two others have been opened during the present season. The first of these may be called the
Mokelumne Hill Route.
Parties of eight, leaving San Francisco on the morning train, or Sacramento on the noon train, can take stage at Mokelumne station, at 1.30 p.m., reach Mokelumne Hill the same evening at seven o'clock, stay all night, and reach the Calaveras Big Trees at noon next day.
Price, from San Francisco to the Trees, and return, $17.00; from Sacramento to the Trees and back, $15.50. Parties of four will be taken for $15.00 each from Mokelumne station to the trees and back, in first class coaches and carriages. Any wish- ing to try this route can address Peck & Co., Mokelumne Hill.
From the trees one can go on to the valley by regular stages,
%
i8 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
and come out by any trail he likes, by making previous arrange- ments accordingly.
The second additional route is known as
Hamilton's New Rcute.
By this route the tourist from either San Francisco or Stockton takes the Western Pacific Railroad to Gait, wherjce stages leav- ing at one P. M,, carry him by the way of lone City and Valley, through Jackson to Mokelumne Hill, where he arrives at 7 P.M., and stays over night,
Leave Mokelumne Hill at 6.30 next morning; take the direct route through Railroad Flat and reach the Big Trees at noon. Fare, for the round trip from San Francisco or Sacramento, $20,00. From either city to the Big Trees, $12.00, leaving one free to go from the grove to Yosemite, when and as he likes.
Independent Trips,
Are commonly made in one of three ways:
1st. By private wagons, taking camping apparatus, cooking utensils and provisions along.
2d. In the saddle, taking apparatus, utensils and food along on pack horses.
3d. On foot, taking as little as possible, and depending mainly on hotels and wayside ranches or farm houses for the necessary meals and lodging, unless you choose to lodge in your own blank- ets.
I. BY PRIVATE WAGONS.
•Parties of from four to thirty try this method every season, and report themselves delighted with the enjoyment of it, and subjected to an average expense not exceeding $2.00 a day for each one of a party less than eight, or $1.50, or even less, a day for a party of from twelve to thirty.
HOTEL RATES.
II. BY SADDLE AND PACK ANIMALS.
By this method the party is still more independent than by wagons, as hoofs can go where wheels cannot. The expense is about the- same, as what is saved in the hire of' wagons is bal- anced by the cost of the greater number of horses where there must be one animal for each person in the party, besides from one to lour, or even six, animals to carry camp equipage and food.
III. ON FOOT.
• For complete independence, combined with the ability to go where and as you please, unconfined by roads or trails, this is the best way of all. You can feed and lodge at hotels and wayside houses, or you can take along blankets and lodge where night overtakes you. To the untrained this may seem exceedingly rough and uncomfortable; to those who have fairly tried it, you will have no need to recommend it.
Hotel Hates along these Routes.
The hotel rates vary but little by whatever route you- may go or come. You will seldom find a meal or a lodging as low as fifty cents, especially among the mountains and at the places most frequented by summer travel. The more common price is seventy-five cents for either, and as we approach the Valley, or the Big Trees, we may calculate on that figure as the usual cost. The reasonable tourist,— and those who have souls great enough to lead them to nature's wonders are supposed to be reasonable at least, — will readily see two good reasons why the charges along routes like these must be relatively higher than along the more frequent- ly and permanently traveled routes of the thickly settled portions of the State: 1st, Everything which requires transportation, fui^ niture, carpets, and all articles of food which cannot be raised in the immediate vicinity, necessarily cost much more for transport- tation than where steamers or cars bring them almost to the door. 2nd, The travel along all such routes, and the consequent profit-
20 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
upon that travel, must be made within less than one third of the year. During the remaining two thirds, furniture must stand unused, and nearly the whole amount invested for the accommodation of tourists must remain idle, not only yielding no income, but actually becoming a source of additional expense until the opening of a new season.
We have no disposition to apologize for any extortionate or unreasonable charges ; for we are very happy to say that any such apology is rarely needed. Every experienced and fair- minded traveler knows that his fellow passengers are unreasonable and extortionate in their demands fully as often as the transpor- tation companies and their agents are in theirs. The various lines mto the Valley and the Big Trees are managed by men who realize perfectly well that the amount of patronage they receive, and con- sequently, the profits which they make, must depend upon their gaining and keeping the good will of the traveling public. There is plenty of opposition ; among the rival lines, no one has or can obtain any monopoly.
The sensible and safe way, here, as everywhere, is to make a definite agreement beforehand. Don't trust any stranger's as- surance that "we'll make that all rights That very fair sound- ing phrase has made more trouble than almost any other of equal length. The trouble is that it has two meanings. The speaker's "all right" means, for himself, and the hearer's •' all right " means for himself ^ too ; hence the frequent upshot of such loose understanding is, that it proves a com- plete /w/xunderstanding, when they come to settle. Distinct- ly specify what is to be done ; fiow it is to be done ; by whom and when ; and then add at least ten per cent, to the specified c(^t for those little extras which will inevitably force themselves ^pon you in almost every trip. Thus you may escape adding yourself to the list of those improvident ones whose usual exclam- ation at the close of any pleasure trip is " It cost me a great deal more than I expected; and I always thought it would.'"
HORSES AND GUIDES. 21
Valley Hotels,
There are three — Hutching's, Black's, and Liedig's. Any of them will keep you well for from $3.00 to $3.50 a day, or $20.00 a week. Hutchmgs' is the farthest up the valley and nearer the greater number of points of interest. Hutchings himself, as poor Dan Setchell used to make Captain Cuttle say of his friend *'01e Sol Gills," is the " chuck-fuUedest mano' science," in all matters pertaining to the valley and its history, that one can find in the State. He keeps an excellent house and usually enter- tains the more distinguished literary and scientific tourists. The Yosemite branch of the Western Union Telegraph now com- pleted and working as far as Garrote, will be extended into the valley and have its office at Hutchings, by July ist.
Black's is a new house, built expressly for the increased travel of late years— having excellent bath and other accommodations, with well-finished and furnished rooms. It stands three quarters of a mile nearer the west end of the valley.
Liedig's is also new, and is specially noted for the bountiful supply of well-cooked food which usually loads its hospitable table, under the immediate and personal superintendence of its obliging hostess. It is situated nearly in front of the base of Sentinel Rock.
Each of these houses, of course, has its warm friends, loud in its praises. All of them do their best for the satisfaction of guests and any one of them will provide the tourist with a com- fortable home.
Horses and Guides in the Valley.
For a good horse and saddle the charge is $2,150 a day, or for a trip, if it occupies such part of the day that the animal can- not go out on any other one the same day. If you propose to stay a week or more, and wish to engage the same horse for your
22 BANCROFT'S TOURIST' S^UIDE.
regular and exclusive use every day during that time, you can do so for one fifth less; sometimes lower than that.
The hoi'ses are good, trusty, serviceable beasts, trained to their business and generally safe and reliable.
Going into or coming out from the valley with any regular trip, over any route, you have nothing to do with providing or paying for a guide. One accompanies the saddle-train each way.
In and about the valley, you can have the company and at- tention of a practiced and competent guide for $3.00 a day — or, a trip. The guide's fee is the same whether the party be small or large.
No tourist who has the nerve and muscle of an average man or woman really needs either horse or guide. The valley is only seven miles long and but a mile wide. The perpendicular walls, from three to five thousand feet high, shut you in all around. You certainly can't get out; and with so many prominent land- marks all about you, you can't get lost, unless you try very hard indeed. With a good guide-book before you and well-rested legs under you, a very moderate exercise of common sense will take you all about the valley, and enable you thoroughly to ex- plore its wonders "on foot and alone " if you choose so to go.
Bear in mind, however, that you are nearly a mile — in some places more than a mile — above the sea ; that the atmosphere is rare and light ; that you need to restrain your impulse to dash about, especially at first. For the first two or three days "go slow " — take it moderately ; see less than you think you might, rather than more. As you become more familiar with the char- acter of the rocks and ravines and accustomed to the exertion of climbing about them, you can extend your excursions and attempt harder things.
For the longer trips, such as the ascent of the Sentinel Rock, it may be safer and wiser to employ a good guide .
EXPENSES. 23
Expenses,
The total necessary expenses by each route are :
1st. By Big Oak Flat (Hutchings') Route:
From San Francisco to Yosemite Valley, or return $20
From wSan Francisco to Yosemite a7td return 38
From San Francisco to the Calaveras Big Trees, or return. 10 From San Francisco to the Calaveras Big Trees and Valley,
or return 25
From San Francisco to the Calaveras Big Trees and Valley,
and return 45
Thomas Houseworth & Co., Agents, 317 and 319 Montgomery street, San Francisco.
2d. By the Coulterville Route:
From San Francisco to Yosemite VaUey, or return $20
From San Francisco to Yosemite Valley, and return 38
G. W. Coulter, Agent, 214 Montgomery street, San Francisco.
3d. By Mariposa Route:
From San Francisco to Yosemite Valley, or return $25
From San Francisco to Yosemite Valley, and^Qinm 45
Ed. Harrison, Agent, Grand Hotel, San Francisco.
Board and Lodging en route, per day $3 00
Board and Lodging in the Valley, per day 3 00
Board and Lodging at Big Trees, per day 3 00
Board and Lodging in either place, per week 20 00
Horses in Valley, or to Big Trees, per day. 2 50
Guides in Valley or to Big Trees, per day 3 00
TOTAL EXPENSES OF EXCURSION.
I . To Yosemite Valley, direct, by Big Oak or Coulterville, stay one week in the Valley, hiring guide and horse three days, and returning by same route , $80
24 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
2. Above excursion, including Calaveras Big Trees 90
3. To Yosemite Valley direct, by Mariposa, staying a week in the Valley, hiring guide and horse three days, and coming out same way 87
4. Above excursion, including ^Mariposa Big Trees 93
5. In by Big Oak Flat or Coulterville, and out by Maripo- sa, or vice versxi, other conditions as above 87
6. In by Mariposa, and out by Big Oak Flat, visiting both groves of Big Trees, same conditions as above i lo
In the above statement the expense for guide is based on the supposition that the party includes at least three persons.
YOSEMITE VALLEY.
The name is Indian. Pronounce it in four sjdla- bles, accenting the second. It means " Big Griz- zly Bear."
The valley lies very near the centre of the State, reckoning north and soutli, about one fifth the way across from east to west, and almost exactly in the middle of the high Sierras which inclose it. Its direction from San Francisco is a little south of east, and its distance about one hundred and forty miles in an air line. The valley iteelf lies nearly east and west. Its main axis runs a little north of east by a little south of west.
It consists of three parts:
1st. The surrounding wall of solid rock, nearly vertical, and varjdng in height from one thousand to four and even five thousand feet.
2d. The slope of rocky masses and fragments which have fallen from the face of the cliffs, form- ing a sort of talvi8 or escarpment along the foot of this wall, from seventy-five to three hundred and fifty feet high, throughout the greater part of its extent.
2
26 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
3d. The nearly level bottom land, lying between these slopes, forming the valley proj^er, and divided into two unequal j)arts by the Merced River flowing through westerly, from end to end.
The main valley is seven miles long; though one may make it longer if he estimates the branches or divisions at the upper or eastern end. Its width varies from a few feet on either side of the stream, to a full mile and a quarter in its broadest part. It con- tains over a thousand acres; two thirds meadow, and the rest a few feet higher, somewhat sandy, gravelly, and, in places, covered with rocks and boulders from the surrounding cliffs. Over the lat- ter portion, at in'egular intervals, trees, shrubs and ferns are sparsely sprinkled or set in irregular groups. The richer bottom supports several fine clumps and gToves of graceful trees.
The bottom 5 of the valley is four thousand feet above the level of the sea, and has an average fall, towards the west, of about six feet to the mile. The river varies in width from fifty to seventy feet, and in depth from six to twelve feet. Its bottom is gravelly, its cuiTent remarkably swift, its waters clear as crystal. Trout, of deHcious quality, abound, but seldom allow white men to catch them. ^ The rocky wall which shuts it in, averages over three quarters of a mUe in pei-jjendicular height. N(5^!Hj^g on wheels has ever gone up or down this tremendous precipice, and in only two places have
YO SEMITE VALLEY. 27
tlie surest-footed horses or mules been able to find a safe trail.
Yosemite Yalley is really a huge sink or cleft in a tangle of rock-mountains; a gigantic trougb, not scooped or hollowed out from above, but sunk straight down, as if the bottom had dropped plumb toward the centre, leaving both walls so high that if either should fall, its top would reach clear across the valley and crash against the opposite cliff several hundred feet above its base.
In many places these cliffs rise into rock-moun- tains, or swell into huge mountainous domes, two or three of which have been split squarely in two, or cleft straight down from top to bottom, and the two halves, still standing straight 'up, have been heaved or thrown a half-mile asunder, whence each looks wistfully across at its old mate, or frowns sternly and gloomity down upon the beautiful valley which quietly keeps them apart.
Here and there they tower into lofty spires, shoot up in shattered or splintered needles, or solemnly stand in stately groups of massive turrets. High bastions surmount steep precipices, and both look down on awful chasms.
Back from the edge of the valley, behind these cliffs, the rock country stretches away in every di- rection through leagues of solid granite, rising kpg'- ularly into scattered hills, peaks and mou'lKns, between which run the various snow-fed streams.
28 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
whose final, sudden plunge over the valley's sharp and rofcky brink makes the numerous falls of such wonderful height.
Coming in by either trail, one enters the western or lower end of the valley. AYe will suj)pose our- selves entering by the Mariposa trail. "We have clambered, or allowed our animals to clamber, safely down the rocky, steep, and crooked trail, which lands us finally at the foot of the precipitous slope of two thousand seven hundi-ed feet. As we follow the trail up the valley, that is, bearing away to the right, going eastward along the foot of the south wall, we encounter the falls, mountains, spu'es and domes in the f olloAving order :
One coming .in by the Coulterville, Hardin's or Big Oak Flat trail, finds himself at the same end of the valley, dii-ectly opposite the foot of the Mari- posa trail, having the river between; and as he bears away to the left, along the base of the north wall, he would, of course, meet all these wonders in ex- actly the reverse order. But to return to the foot of the Marij^osa or Clark's trail :
First, the
Bridal Veil Fall,
Indian name Po-lio-no, meaning, " The Spirit of the Evil Wind." The fall is over nine hundred feet higll^and of indescribable beauty. The stream which forms it has an average width of some sixty-
BRIDAL VEIL FALL. 29
five feet at the edge of the cliff where it breaks over the brink. It is narrower in summer and wider in winter. For six hundred ancj thirty feet the stream leaps clear of the cliff in one unbroken fall. Thence it rushes down the steep slope of broken rocks in a confusion of intermingled cascades nearly three hundred feet more.
The varying pressure of the changeful wind causes a veil-like waving, swaying and fluttering, which readily suggests the obviously fitting and most ap- propriate name.
What could a bride be made of, Who would wear a veil like this ?
No sooner asked than answered, She must be " Maid o' the Mist."
This fall presents its greatest beauty in May or June when the volume of water is not too great. The situation of Pohono, added to its intiinsic beauty, waving a welcome as the tourist enters and fluttering a farewell as he leaves, make it the uni- versal favorite. Ladies especially love to linger at its foot, feasting their eyes with its marvelous and changeful beauty, and delighting their hearts with the delicious suggestiveness of its most appropri- ate name. The honeymoon can nowhere be more fittingly or happily spent than within sight of Pohono.
Half a mile further the cliff rounds outward and
30 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
swells upward into an enormous double, rocky bastion, tlae
Cathedral Rocks.
Two thousand six liundred and sixty feet above the valley. Indian name, Po-see-nah Chbock-kah, meaniijg a large store or hoard of acorns. From certain points of sight the form of these rocks read- ily suggests the outline of a dilapidated Gothic cathedral. Only the superior gi'andeui- of Tu- toch-ah-nu-lah and the South Dome, prevent this rock from greater fame. Outside of Tosemite it would quickly attain a world-wide celebrity.
Just beyond these rocks the cliff bears away to the southeast and sends up two slender, graceful pinnacles of splintered granite, rising five hundred feet above the main wall, which supports them. These are the
Cathedral Spires.
Their summits are twenty-four hundred feet above the valley. Seen from the northeast, a mile distant, these s]3ires apjDear symmetrical, of equal height, squarely hewn and rising above the edge of the cliff behind, exactly like two towers of a Gothic cathedral. One who doubts the ai^propriateness of their name, has only to view them from this point, whence a single glance will end his skeptic- ism. Beyond the si^u-es the wall runs southeasterly
SENTINEL ROCK. 31
a quarter of a mile, then curves through an easterly and northerly sweep into a north and south line. The whole sweep forms a sort of precipitous coast with its rocky headlands, inclosing the valley be- tween like an emerald bay. Beyond this bay the rocky wall gradually curves again, and resumes its easterly trend. An eighth of a mile further . brings us to
The Fissure.
This is a cleft or split in the rock, running back southeasterly at nearly a right angle with the face of the cliff. It is one thousand feet deep, five feet wide at the top and front, and grows gradually narrower as it extends downward and backward into the mountain. Several boulders have fallen into it and lodged at different depths,
A third of a mile east of this fissure, and a mile and three quarters from the Cathedral Rocks, an- other rocky promontory j^rojects northwesterly, like a huge buttress, a third of a mile into the valley, crowned with a lofty granite obelisk, three hundred feet tliick, and standing straight up twelve hundred feet above the giant cliff which supports it. This is the famous
Sentinel Rock.
so named from its resemblance to a gigantic watch- tower or signal station, for which, the legends say, the Indians formerly used it. The Indian name
32 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
was Loya. Its top is three thousand and forty-three feet above the river at its foot. The sides show plainly-marked perpendicular cleavages in the gran- ite.
Although so steep in front and at the sides, a strong gras}), a sure foot, a cool nerve and a calm head can safely climb it from the rear, that is, the southwest side. At least they have done so more than once, and planted a flag to wave in triumph from its summit. By the unanimous and unques- tioned verdict of all tounsts, this rock is one of the grandest and most beautiful even in Yosemite itself. Its striking prominence has made it a favorite subject with all ai-tists who have visited the valley.
Thi-ee quaiiers of a mile southeast of the senti- nel tower, haK a mile back from the brink of the precipice, and partially or totally hidden by it, ac- cording as the spectator stands nearer to or farther from the foot of the cliff, the
Sentinel Dome
lifts its hemispherical bulk four thousand one hun- dred and fifty feet. This is one of the most regu- . larly formed of all of the peculiar dome-like peaks about the valley. The Indian name was Loy-e-ma. A horseman can reach the very summit by a trail up the eastern slope, and enjoy a most extensive view as his reward. From this dome, the profile of the South Dome and strongly marked moraines of
GLACIER ROCK. 33
^ the Too-loo-le-wack Canon appear to better advan- tage than from any other point.
A mile east of Sentinel Rock the face of the cliff becomes less precipitous, bends sharply around to the south, and thence back towards the southwest, forming an angular and sloping rocky bluff known as
Glacier Rock, called by the Indians, Oo-woo-yoo-wah, which means, the '' Great Eock of the Elk." The story has it that during one of the expeditions of troojDS into the valley, a party of soldiers, searching for Indians, undertook to climb this rock, and while, slowly and with great labor, working their way up its smooth and steep slope, the hunted red men suddenly appeared upon its summit, and began to roll large stones down upon them. These came thundering down with terrific niose and frightful speed. The pale faces turned and fled with head- long haste, but the destructive missiles smote seve- ral of them with instant death. y From the point of Glacier Eock one has a fine r view of the valley. All the domes, with the Yosem- ite, Vernal and Nevada Falls are plainly visible thence.
For nearly a mile southeast of Glacier Eock the
cliff becomes steej)er and more precipitous, forming
^ the western wall of a wild, rough canon, stretching
away southeasterly for nearl}^ a mile. Over the
34 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
cliff at the liead of tliis canon the south fork of the Merced plunges six hundred feet in the
milouette Fall.
This is also called the Too-loo-le-wack, or Too- lool-we-ack Fall. The meaning of either of these
, Indian names is not certainly given. Cunningham, one of the oldest and best guides of the valle}^ calls the canon and the fall at the head of it, the El-lil- o-wit. The tourist who attempts this canon must leave all hoofs behind, and, falling back to first piin- ciples, de}3end entirely upon his own understanding. Among the enormous masses of rock which ob- struct it, several extensive fissures and romantic caverns furnish additional stimulus to the wonder- loving pedestrian. As General Coulter says : ' ' rough is no name for it." It is one of the wildest jolaces imaginable. Few tourists accomplish it, but those who do are amply repaid.
^ From the foot of the Il-lil-ou-ette Canon make your wa}^ directly east, clamber along haK a mile, or let your horse do it for you, then bear away to the right, slightly south of east, and you find yourself entering the canon of the main Merced itself. Now pick your way carefully along, and, as soon as you feel sufficiently sure of your foothold, look about you, and look ahead. Did you ever see finer boul- der-scenery in your life ? Stop under the shelter- ing lee of this huge, church-like bo alder, and don
VERNAL FALL. 35
the oiled or rubber suit which awaits your hire. You can get on without it, but the spray will quickly wet you into a
" DemVl damp, moist and disagreeable body,"
if you try ii
Now take a stout stick, a deep breath, hold firmly on to both and plunge sturdily along the ascending trail. The deepest, richest and greenest of moss lines the narrow foot-path on either hand. Look quickly; enjoy it while you may, for presently you find breath and sight nearly taken away together by heavy sj^ray-gusts, rushing, wind-driven, down the canon. Catching the intervals between, and catching your breath at the same time, you lift your nearly blinded eyes to the
Vernal Pall.
four hundred and fifty feet high, one hundred feet wide, and from three to five feet deep where it breaks over the square-cut^edgeof the solid granite beneath. • The name Vernal was given it on account of the greenness of its. water as it plunges over the brink, as well as to distinguish it from the very- white fall a mile above. The Indian name was Pi- wy-ack, which is differently translated to mean " a shower of crystals," or " the cataract of diamonds." This fall pours in one solid unbroken sheet of emerald green, flecked and fringed with creamy foam, and filling the whole canon below with a thick,
36 BAyCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
and fine and ceaseless spray, which keeps its moss, and grass and foliage of a rich, deep green nowhere surpassed in nature. This spray also combines with the sunshine to develop another and a marvelous beauty. At almost any point along the trail for several rods below the fall, the visitor who is climb- ing in the morning has only to turn square about to find himself glorified by an exquisitely beautiful cir- cular rainbow surrounding his head like a halo. This rainbow fonns a comj)lete circle of so small a diameter that the tourist who views it for the first time involuntarily stretches out his hands to grasp it.
The path is wet and slippery, and the ladder- stairs which carry one up the right-hand face of the cliff, just at the south edge of the fall, are steep and tiresome. But good oil or rubber suits keep out the wet, a good restful pause now and then keej)s in the breath, while careful stepping and firm holding on rob the steepness and slipperiness of all their real danger. Scores of ladies go up and come down every season without accident or harmful fa- tigue.
Arrived at the top of the singularly square-cut granite cliff, we turn to the left, walk to the very edge of the stream and the brink of the fall, and gaze into the misty chasm in which the foot of the fall disappears. One need not fear to do so, for nature, as if with special forethought for the gratifi-
ILLILOUETTE tALL. 37
cation of future guests, has provided a remarkable parapet of solid granite running along the very edge of the brink for several yards south of the fall, just breast high, and looking as if made on purpose for timid tourists to lean over, and gaze with fear- less safety into the seething chasm in whose foaming depths the foot of the cataract shrouds itself in im- penetrable mist.
This ceaseless mistiness makes it almost impossi- ble to estimate or calculate the exact height of the fall with any satisfactory accuracy. Another vari- able element which enters into all conjectures of its height is the fact that the rock on which it strikes slopes sharply down for upwards of a hundred and sixty feet. Hence in late spring or early summer, when the volume and velocity of the river are greatest, the water, shooting further out, falls at the very base of this slope, and gives the fall a height of four hundred and seventy-five or even five hundred feet in May or June. In October, on the other hand, when the stream is at its lowest, the water, falling straight down, strikes upon the top of this slope, a hundred and sixty or seventy-five feet above its base, and thus diminishes the height of the fall by just that amount.
In its volume, this fall resembles Niagara more than any other in the valley. In width, of course, it falls far below, but its height is more than three times as great. It also resembles Niagara in its
38 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
greatening on the gaze witli each successive yisit. In its approaches, in its surroundings, and in itself, the Vernal fall surpasses expectation and fully satis- fies desire.
Half a mile above the Vernal is a small but beau- tiful gem of a little fall, called the
Kachooxnah,
or Wild Cat Fall. The reason of the name is ob\ious to one standing a hundred feet below, and noting how the impetuous stream, breaking over the sharp edge of a huge transverse boulder, dashes against the sloping side of another; lying angularly across; and is thrown, or seems to spring, diagon- ally across towards the northern bank, readily, though roughly, suggesting the sudden side-spring of the animal for whom the observing red man named it.
• Another half mile, and the rocky walls close to- gether, shut us in and bar our fui-ther progress. The canon narrows to a point, over w^jose right hand wall, close to the very angle of meeting, the same river, the main Merced, plunges its whole volume in the famous
Nevada Fall,
/ seven hundred feet high, seventy-five feet wide at the brink, and one hundred and thirty below. This fall is, in all respects, one of the grandest in the
NEVADA FALL. 39
world. In lieight, in width, in purity and volume of water during tlie early summer, in graceful pecu- liarities and in grandeur of surrounding scenery, it is simply stupendous. Other falls, though few, surpass it in the single element of height, but in surrounding grandeur, in the harmony of beauty and magnificence, none equal this. None brings the visitor oftener to its foot, detains him with greater delight, or sends him away with more pro- found satisfaction.
The exact statement of the height of this fall is hindered by causes similar to those at the Vernal^ viz: the constant and blinding spray around the bottom, and the consequent uncertainty as to the exact spot where the water strikes.
The rock beneath this fall is not vertical, but rather steeply inclined, having a slope of about eighty-five degrees through its upper half and not far from seventy-five degrees through its lowxr. Hence in summer, when tourists usually see it, the diminished force of the current causes the water rather to slide down the slope, than to shoot out over and fall clear of it, as in the sx^ring. Thus, from June to November the Nevada is more prop- erly a chute or slide than a fall. During this sea- son the friction of the rock breaks the stream into a white froth; hence the name, Nevada, or Snowy Fall.
When the water is very low, the fittest thing to
4o BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
wliicli one could liken it would be to myriads of white lace or gauze veils hung over the face of the cliff, waving and fluttering in the wind. A party of ladies originated this figure, and it occui-red also to Mr. Bowles in his fine descriptions of Yosemite wonders.
As one stands in the canon below gazing at the Nevada, the Snowy Fall, away upon his left, about a third of a mile back from the brink of the north- east wall of the canon, rises
Mt. Broderick,
or the Cap of Liberty, whose general outline sug- gests its name. Its rounded summit lifts its smooth, weather-poKshed granite two thousand . feet above the fall and nearly five thousand above the main valley. It bears upon its crown a single juniper of enormous diameter.
Away to the right of the canon, just jDceping above the edge of the cliff, and nearly two miles south-southeast of the Nevada Fall, rises the steep, conical summit of the South Dome, or
Mt Starr King,
reaching an estimated height of one mile above the valley. Next to the wonderful half-dome, this is the steepest and smoothest cone in the region. In- dian name, See-wah-lam, meaning not known. Its
THE HALF-DOME. 41
exact height, like that of its great namesake, has never been satisfactorily settled.
Clambering back down this canon, depositing our oiled or rubber suits, and experiencing an imme- diate sense of relief and lightness, we retrace the trail up which we came, bear away to the right, that is, going nearly northwest, proceed nearly or quite a mile round the base of a lofty buttress, and ope^i the
Tenaya Canon,
stretching av*^ay northeast nearly in a continuous line with the main valley itself.
About one mile up this canon towers Yosemite's sheerest and loftiest isolated cliff, the
Half-Dome
itself. It is a bare crest of naked granite, four thousand seven hundred and forty feet high, cleft straight down in one vast vertical front on the Ten- aya, or northwest side, while on the back, that is, toward the southeast, it swells off and rounds away with a dome-like sweep that utterly dwarfs the grandeur of a thousand St. Peters in one.
Following still on up the Tenaya Canon, nearly two miles beyond the dome, and a thousand feet higher, rises the
Clouds' Rest,
a granite ri"dge, long, bare and steep, having its axis parallel with that of the valley, and falling
42 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
away along its southeastern slope into the rocky mountain wilderness of the High Sierras. This is one of the few points about the valley which the Geological Survey has not yet measured. They estimated its height one thousand feet above that of the Half Dome, which would make its summit ten thousand feet, or nearly two miles above the sea level.
Beyond this, little of note invites the traveler's delay, so we make our way northwesterly straight across this canon from the base of its southeasterly wall toward that of the opposite cliff. On the way, however.
Mirror Lake
arrests and enchants us. Surely wafer reflections were never more perfect. The Indian name Ke-ko- too-yem, Sleeping Water, was never more happily bestowed. Imagine a j)erfect water mirror nearly eight acres in extent, and of a temperament so calm and deep and philosophic that it devotes its whole life to the profoundest reflection. A mile of soHd cliff above, a mile of seeming solid cliff beneath; for though the mind knows the lower to be only an image, the eye cannot, by simple sight alone, deter- mine which is the solid original and which the shad- owy reflection.
Twin mountaius, base to base, here meet the astou- ished eye; One towers toward lieaven in substance vast,
NORTH DOME. 43
One looms below in shadow cast, As grand, as perfect as its peer on high.
In early morning, wlien no breeze ripples the lake, its reflections are, indeed, marvelously life-like. So exactly is eveiy line and point repeated that the photographic view has puzzled hundreds to tell which mountain is in the air and which is in the water. The spectator who takes the photogram in his hand for the first time often hesitates for several minutes before he can determine which side up the picture should be held. The depth of the lake is from eight to twenty feet.
One sufficiently vigorous and persevering may push on up the Tenaya creek till he finds the
^ Tenaya Lake,
over a mile long, snugly nestled in among the mountains. This lies beyond the usual limit of tourists' excursions, but well repays a visit.
Nearly a mile northwest of the lake, and about a third of a mile back from the edge of the cliff, the
Nortli Dome
lifts its rounded granite bulk three thousand five hundred and seventy feet above the valley. It looks as if built of huge, concentric, overlapping, hemi- spherical domes, piled one upon another, andjiaving their overlapping edges irregularly broken away. On the valley side, that is, toward the south and
44 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
southeast, it is so steep that no human foot has ever climbed it. In the rear, however, that is, toward the north and west, it falls away in a vast ridge or spine, along which one can easily gain the very summit of the dome itself. The Indian name was To-coy-ah, meaning the shade of an Indian baby basket.
Passing three quarters of a mile still down, we reach the angle or turn between the Tenaya canon and the valley proper. In this turn, in fact forming the angle, stands the
"Washington Column,
/ a rounded, columnar rock tower, partially standing forth from the abutting cliff behind. This reaches the height of two thousand five hundred feet.
Immediately beyond this large masses of the huge concentric, overlapping plates, have cracked off, slipped away and fallen, leaving rough bas-relief arches several hunLlred yards long, and projecting some scores of fee c, like rudely-di'awn gigantic eye- brows. These are commonly called the '
Royal Arches,
or the Arched Hocks, but the .Indian name, Hun-to, " The Watching Eye," wiU better satisfy the poet- ical visitor, imless, indeed, his Masonic proclivities quite overpower his poetic appreciation, in which case he will undoubtedly prefer the former title.
YO SEMITE FALL. 45
For the next mile and a half noi-thwest nothing of special wonder for Yosemite detains us.
The relief is fitting and needful, not only that we may recover in some degree from the continued effect of the marvels already past, but, more especi- ally, that we may rally in preparation for the most stupendous wonder of them all, the great
Yosemite Fall
itself. Here language ceases and art quite fails. No words nor j^aintings, not even the photogram itself, can reproduce one tithe of the grandeur here enthroned. A cataract from heaven to earth, plung- ing from the clouds of the sky to bury itself among the trees of the forest. The loftiest waterfall yet known upon the face of the globe.
Don't mention figures yet, please. When a man is overwhelmed with the sublime, don't plunge him into statistics. By and by, when we have cooled down to a safe pitch, we may condescend to hear the calm calculator project his inexorable mathe- matics into the very face of nature's sublimity and triumphantly tell us just liow great this surpassing wonder is. But after all his exactest calculations, his absolute measurements and his positive assur- ances, OYi^feeh how small the fraction of real great- ness which figui'es can express or the intellect apprehend. A cataract half a mile high, setting its forehead against the stars and planting its feet
46 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
at the base of the eternal liills. Gracefully swaying from side to side in rhythmical vibration, swelling into grandeur in earlier spring, and shrinking into beaut}' under the ardency of summer heat; towering far above all other cataracts, it calmly abides, the undisputed monarch of them all.
A half mile is no exaggeration, for the official measurement of the State Survey makes the height two thousand six hundred and forty-one (2,641) feet — a/uZZ half mile, and one foot more.
The fall is not in one unbroken, perpendicular sheet, but in three successive leaps. In the upper fall, the stream slides over a huge rounded lip or edge of polished granite, and falls one thousand five hundred and eighty-seven feet in one tremend- ous plunge. Here its whole volume thunders upon a broad shelf or recess, whence it rushes in a series of roughly-broken cascades down a broken sloj^e of over seven hundred feet in linear measurement, but whose base is six hundred and twenty-six feet perpendicularly below its to^. From the bottom of this broken sloj^e it makes a final plunge of four hundred and twenty-eight feet in one clear fall, and then slides off contentedly into the restful shadows of the welcoming forests below.
Its width, like that of all snow-fed streams, varies greatly with the season. In March or April, when the tributary snows are melting most rajoidly, and myriads of streamlets swell its volume, the
THREE BROTHERS. 47
stream is from seventy-five to a hundred feet wide, ■where it suddenly slips over the smoothly-rounded granite at its upper brink. During the same season it scatters or spreads to a width of from three to four hundred feet, when it breaks uj)on the rocky masses below.
In later spring, or earlier summer, it dwindles to less than a third of its greatest bulk ; and its most intimate friend, the veteran Yosemite pioneer, Hutchings, tells us that he has seen it when it hardly seemed more than a silver thread winding- down the face of the cliff. Under a full moon, the element of weirdness mingles with its graceful grandeur, shrouds it with mystery, and transports one into a soft and dreamy wonder-land, from which he cares not to return.
A mile further on our way back toward the west- ern end, brings us under, or in front of, the triple rocky group, or three-peaked stone-mountain, whose name, the .
Three Brothers,
readily suggests itself to one standing in the proper place below. They are tliree huge, bluntly conical, rocky peaks, fronting nearly south, slightly inclined toward the valley and descending in height as they approach it. To the rude Indian fancy they might well suggest the name Porn-porn-pa-sue — " Mount- ains playing leap-frog," — with which they christened them. •
48 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
The higliest, wliicli is the northernmost, the one furthest back from the valley, is three thousand eight hundred and thirty feet high. The summit of this rock is readily reached by a trail from the rear, and affords a superb view of the valley and its surroundings. Nearly all who have enjoyed it con- sider it the very best to be had.
Another mile-and-a-half and the rocky wonders of Yosemite fitly culminate and terminate in
Tu-toch-ali-nu-lah,
*' The Great Chief of the Valley" more commonly, though very weakly, called "El Capitan," an ordi- nary Spanish word, meaning simply, "the Captain;" good enough for a feny-boat or river steamer, but entirely beneath the dignity of this most magnifi- cent rock on the face of the earth.
Tu-toch-ah-nulah is an immense granite cliff, pro- jecting angularly into the valley, toward the south- west. It has tw© fronts, one facing nearly west, the other southeasterh", meeting in a sub-acute angle. These two fronts are over a mile long, and three thousand three hundred feet high, smooth, bare and vertical, and bounded above by a sharp edge, standing pressed against the sky, which its Atlas-like shoulder seems made to uphold.
The State Survey, with all its scientific coolness, could not help saying, " El Capiian imposes upon us by its stupendous bulk, which seems as if hewed
TU-TOCH-AH-NU-LAH. 49
from the mountains on purpose to stand as the type of eternal massiveness. It is doubtful, if anyy* here in the world, there is presented so squarely cut, so lofty and so imposing a face of rock." Starr King- declared, " A more majestic object than this rock, I never expect to see on this planet." Horace Greeley, who enjoyed the rare experience of enter- ing the valley by night, and in moonlight too, thus pays tribute to the Great Chief :
" That first, full, deliberate gaze, up the opposite height ! Can I ever forget it? The valley here, is scarcely' half a mile wide, while its northern wall of mainly naked, perpendicular granite, is at least four thousand feet high, probably more. But the modicum of moonlight that fell into this awful gorge, gave to that precipice a vagueness of outline, an indefinite vastness, a ghostly and weird spiritu- ality. Had the mountain spoken to me in an audi- ble voice, or begun to lean over with the purpose of burying me, I should hardly have been surprised."
After Tutochahnulah, nothing on earth can seem ver}^ grand or overpowering, and with this the won- ders of the valley fitly close.
"We have, by no means,, seen all the falls, nor even mentioned all the peaks, but the others are of little note in Yosemite, though, elsewhere, tourists might go a thousand miles to see the least of them. This valley is, beyond com^Darison, the most, wonderful and beautiful of all earthly sights. No matter how 3
50 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
incredulous one may be before entering, the Great Chief and his tremendous allies, soon crush him into the most humble and complete subjection. Do not expect, however, that your first view will stag- ger your skepticism. On the contrary, it may even confirm it. Upon our first view of Tutochahnulah, as we were walking into the valley, one bright July forenoon, we stopped a mile and a half from its foot, collected ourselves for a calm, cool, mathemat-* ical judgment and said with all confidence, " That rock isn't over fifteen hundred feet high. It can't be. Why, just look at that tree near its base. That tree, certainly, can't be more than a hundred and twenty-five feet high, and certainly, the cliff doesn't rise more than ten times its height above it." But, unfortunately, we had forgotten that never before had we seen the works of nature on as grand a scale. One's judgment has to change its base. He has to reconstruct it ; to adopt a new unit. Comparison serv^es him little, for he has no ade- quate standard by which to measure, or with which to compare the rock-mountains before him. They are like nothing else. They are a law unto themselves, and one must learn the law, the new law, before he can begin to enter the secret of their greatness. Look at that tree. Elsewhere 3'ou would call it lofty. It measures a hundred and fifty feet, and yet, that wall of solid rock behind rises straight up to twenty times its height above it.
YO SEMITE. 51
Look again; now, turn away; shut eyes and think. Forget all former standards and adopt the new. Slowly you begin to '^ even " yourself to the stu- pendous scale of the gigantic shapes around.
Even Niagara requires two or three days before one begins to fully realize or truly appreciate its greatness. How much more, then, Yosemite, com- pared with which Niagara is but a very little thing ! Then, on the other hand, one must remember that after he has adjusted himself to the new and grand- er scale of Yosemite, upon coming out into the midst of ordinary hills and mountains, for several days they seem Ioav and flat and small.
A single visit to Yosemite dwarfs all other natu- ral wonders and spoils one for all places else. He who has seen it listens quietly to the most enthusi- astic rhapsodies of the most Avidely traveled tour- ists, and simply answers, with a calm, superior smile, ' ' Ah, that's all very well, but you should see
The Traveler's University — should such an insti- tution ever exist — can never righteously graduate the most widely traveled tourist, until he can truth- fully add to his name, " Y. S. T."— Yosemite Tour- ist.
52 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
THE BIG TREES.
Teh California Big Trees are a kind of Redwood ; or, if the strictest and most scientific judgment does not rank tliem in the same family, it must, at least, allow a very close relationship) .
Nine gToVes are already certainly known, and, every year or two, as the exploration of the State becomes more exact, or approaches completion, other smaller gToves, straggling gi'oups or solitaiy clumps, are added to the number. Of all those thus far discovered the Calaveras Grove and the Mariposa Grove are the most celebrated, both from the extent of the groves and the size and height of the trees composing them.
The Calaveras Grove
receives its name from that of the county in which it stands. It is near the source of the south fork of the Calaveras river, while the upper tributaries of the Mokelumne and the Stanislaus rivers flow near it : the foiTaer on the north, the latter on the southeast. It is about sixteen miles from Mur- phy's Camp, and on or near the road crossing the Sierras by the Silver Mountain Pass. This grove
THE CALAVERAS GROVE: 53
has received more visitors and attained gre'ater celebrity than any other, for four reasons :
1st. It vras the first discovered.
2d. It was nearer the principal routes of travel, hence more easily accessible.
3d. One can visit it on wheels.
4th. Last, and best for the tired tourist, an ex- cellent hotel at the verj^iargin of the grove; Sper- ly & Perry, projDrietors.
The grove extends northeast and southwest about five eighths of a mile. Its width is only about one fifth as great. It stands in a shallow valley be- tween two gentle slopes. Its height above the sea is four thousand seven hundred and fifty-nine feet. In late spring or early winter a small brook winds and bubbles through the grove ; but under the glare of summer suns and the gaze of throng- ing visitors, it modestly "dries up."
The grove contains about ninety trees which can be called really "big," besides a considerable num- ber of smaller ones deferentially grouped around the outskirts. Several of the larger ones have fallen since the grove was discovered, in the spring of 1852; one has had the bark stripped off to the height of one hundred and sixteen feet, and one has been cut down, or, rather, bored and sawed down. The bark thus removed was exhibited in different cities in this country, and finally deposited in the Sydenham Crystal Palace, England, only to be burned in the fire which destroyed a part of that
54 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
building some years since. The two trees thus destroyed were among the finest, if not the very finest in the grove. Among those now standing, the tallest is the ^'KeA'stone State;" the largest and finest, the "Empire State."
The following table gives the height of all the
trees measured by the State Sui-i^ey, and their gii'th six feet from the ground :
Names of Trees. Girth. Height.
Keystone State . 45 ^' 32^
General Jackson 4U 319
Mother of the Forest (without bark) 61 315
Daniel Webster 47 307
Kiehard Cobden 41 284
Starr King .^ 52 283
Pride of the Forest : •. 48 282
Heni-i' Clay 47 280
Bay State 46 275
Jas. King of William 51 274
Sentinel 49 272
Dr. Kane 50 271
Arbor Vitae Queen •. 30 269
Abraham Lincoln 44 268
Maid of Honor 27 266
Old VeiTQont 40 265
Uncle Sam 43 265
Mother (and Son) 51 261
Three Graces (highest) 30 262
Wm. CuUen Bryant 48 262
U. S. Grant 34 261
Gen. Scott 43 258
Geo. Washing-ton .- 51 256
Henry Ward Beecher .» 34 252
California 33 250
Uncle Tom's Cabin 50 250
Beauty of the Forest 39 249
J. B. McPherson 31 246
Florence Nightingale 37 246
James Wadsworth 27 239
Elihu Burritt 31 231
/f
THE CALAVERAS GROVE. 55.
The exact measurement of the diameter and the ascertaining of the age of one of the largest trees in this grove, was accomplished by cutting it down. This was done soon after the discovery of the grove. It occupied five men during twenty-two days. They did it by boring into the tree with pump au- gers. The tree stood so perfectly vertical that, even after they had bored.it completely off, it would not fall. It took three days' labor driving huge Avedges in jiipon one side until the monumental monster leaned, toppled and fell.
They hewed and smoothed off the stump six feet above the ground, and then made careful measure- ments as follows : *
Across its longest diameter, north of centre, 10 feet 4 inches. Across its longest diameter, south of centre, 13 " 9% "
Total largest diameter, 24 feet 1% iuc's.
•
The shorter diameter, from east to west, was twenty-three feet, divided exactly even, eleven and one half feet from the centre each way.
The thickness of the bark averaged eighteen inches. This would add three feet to the diameter, making the total diameter as the tree originally stood, a little over twenty-seven feet one way, and twenty-six feet the other. That is eigMy-five feet in circumference, six feet from the ground.
The age was ascertained thus : After it had been felled, it was again cut through about thirty feet
56 . BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
from the first cut. At the upper end of this section, which was, of course, nearly forty feet above the ground, as the tree originally stood, they carefully counted the rings of annual gTowth, at the same time exactly measuring the width of each set of one hundred rings, counting from the outside inwards. These were the figures :
First hundred rings 3.0 inches.
Second Third
Fourth " Fifth Sixth
Seventh " Eighth " Ninth Tenth ' " Eleventh " Twelfth " Fifty-five years
3.7
|
4.1 |
|
|
3.9 |
|
|
4.1 |
|
|
4.1 |
|
|
4.6 |
|
|
5.6 |
|
|
7.3 |
|
|
7.9 |
|
|
10.1 |
|
|
13.0 |
|
|
9.4 |
1.255 years. 80.8 inches.
A small hole in the middle of the tree prevented the exact detennining of the number of rings which had rotted away, or were missing from the centre ; but allowing for that, as well as for the time which the tree must have taken to gTow to the height at which they made the count, it is probably spealdng within bounds, to say that this tree was, in round numbers, thirteen hundred years old !
As the table shows, this grove contains four trees over three hundred feet high. The heights of these big trees, in both the great groves, are usually
THE MARIPOSA GROVE, . ^57
OYerstated. The above measurements Avere care- fully and scientifically made — in several cases re- peated and verified — and may be relied on as correct.
The "Keystone State" enjoys the proud honor of lifting its head higher than ^ny other tree now ■known to be standing on the western continent. Australia has trees a hundred and fifty feet hi^-her. The stories occasionally told of trees over four hundred feet high having once stood in this grove, have no reasonable foundation and are not entitled to belief. Neither is it true, as some have marvel- ously asserted, that it takes two men and a boy, working half a day each, to look to the top of the highest tree in this grove.
The Calaveras trees, as a rule, are taller and slim- mer than those of Mariposa. This has probably resulted from their growing in a spot more shel- tered from the high winds which sweep across the Sierra, to which other groves have been more exposed.
The Mariposa Grove,
likewise named from the county in which it stands, is about sixteen miles directly south of the lower hotel in Yosemite valley, and about four miles southeast of Clark's Eanch. Like the Calaveras Grove, it occupies a shallow valley or depression in the back of a ridge which runs easterly between Big Creek and the South Merced. One branch of the creek rises in the grove.
58 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
The grant made by Congress is two miles square and embraces two distinct groves ; that is, two col- lections of big trees, separated by a considerable space having none. The upper grove contains three hundred and sixty-five trees of the true Se- quoia Gigardea species, having a diameter of one foot or over. Besides these, are a great number of younger and smaller ones.
The lower grove is not as large, and its trees are more scattered. It lies southwesterly from the up- per. Some of its trees grow quite high up the gulches on the south side of the ridge which sepa- rates the two groves.
On Wednesday, July 7th, 1869, the largest trees of this grove were carefully measured, under the guidance and with the assistance of Mr. Clarke himself, one of the State Commissioners charged with the care of these groves and of the Yosemite valley. To prevent misunderstanding and insure uniformity, each tree was measured three feet from the ground, excej^t where the outside of the base was burned away, when the tree was gu'ted seven and a half feet above giound.
The following figures are taken from that day's phonographic journal, written on the sjDot :
The "Grizzly Giant," seven and one half feet up, measures seventy-eight and one half feet in circum- ference. Three feet above ground this tree meas- ured over a hundred feet round ; but several feet
THE MARIPOSA GROVE. 59
of this measurement came from projecting roots, wliere they swell out from the trunk into the mam- moth diagonal braces or shores, necessary to sup- port and stiffen such a gigantic structure in its hold upon the earth.
One hundred feet up, an immense branch, over six feet through, grows out horizontally some twen- ty feet, then turns like an elbow and goes up forty feet. It naturally suggests some huge gladiator, uncovering his biceps and drawing up his arm to *' show his muscle." This is the largest tree now standing in the grove, and is the one of which Starr King wrote :
"I confess that my own feeling, as I first scanned it, and let the eye roam up its tawny pillar, was of intense disappointment. But then, I said to my- self, this is, doubtless, one of the striplings of this Anak brood — only a small affair of some forty feet in girth. • I took out the measuring line, fastened it on the trunk with a knife, and walked around, unwinding as I went. The line was seventy-five feet long. I came to the end before completing the circuit. Nine feet more were needed. I had dismounted before a structure eighty-four feet in circumference, and nearly three hundred feet high, and I should not have guessed that it would meas- ure more than fifteen feet through."
Here, as in Yosemite and at Niagara, tourists are usually disappointed in the first view. The lifelong
6o BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
familiarity with lesser magnitudes makes it almost impossible for tlie mind to free itself from tlie tram- mels of habit, and leap at a single bound, into any adequate perception of the incredible magnitudes which confront him. One needs spend at least a week among these Brobdignagian bulks, come twice a day and stay twelve hours each time, before he grows to any worthy apx^reciation of their unbe- lievable bigness.
Of the other trees, the largest ten, measured three feet above gTound, gave the following cir- cumferences :
La Fayette 83 feet.
The Governor ,. 75 "
Cbas, Crocker 75 "
The Chief Commissioner 74 "
Governor Stanford 74 "
Washington ." 72 "
Phito's Chimney 71 "
The Big Diamond (Koh-i-noor) 65 "
The Governor's Wife 62 "
The Forest Queen 58 "
Others of equal size, possibly greater than some above, were not measured.
" The Grovernor" is a generic name, applied in honor of him who may happen to be the actual in- cumbent at any time. At present, of course, it means Gov. Haight. It is an actual botanical fact, that the tree has actually gained in height under the present gubernatorial administration. It cer- tainly is not as low(e) by several inches as during
THE MARIPOSA GROVE. 6i
tlie reign, or lack of rain, of the preceding in- cumbent.
The same general complimentary intention christened the •' ' Gavernor's Wife," which has as graceful a form and as dignified a bearing among trees as such a lady should have among the women of the State. Then, too, the tree stands with a gentle inclination toward '^ The Governor," which may not be without its suggestions to those fond of tracing analogies. ^
The " Chief Commissioner" is the largest of a clump of eight, which stand grouped, as if in con- sultation, at a respectful distance from the Gov- ernor.
" Pluto's Chimney" is a huge old stump, burned and blackened all over, inside and out. Hibernian visitors sometimes call ic "The Devil's Dhudeen." It is between forty and fifty feet high. On one side of the base is a huge opening, much like a a Puritan fireplace or a Scotch inglenook; while within, the whole tree is burned away so that one can look up and out clear to the very sky through its huge cii'cular chimney. Outside, the bark and the roots have been burned wholly away. Before the burning, this tree must have equaled the largest.
Nearly in front of the cabin ir^the upper grove, and not far from the delicious spring before alluded to, stands a solitaiy tree having its roots burned away on one side, leaning south, and presenting a
62 BANCROFT'S TOURISTS GUIDE.
general appearance of tiying to *' swing round tlie circle." In view of all these facts, some imagina- tive genius once christened it "Andy JohnsOn." The only inappropriate thing in the application of that name was the fact that the tree stood so near a sj)ring of cold water. The " Big Diamond" or ' ' Koh-i-noor" is the largest of a group of four veiy straight and. symmetrical trees occupying the cor- ners of a regular rhombus or lozenge, so exactly d^wn as to readily suggest the name ' ' Diamond Group," by which they have been called.
As already remarked, the Mariposa Grove really consists of two gi'oves — the upper and the. lower, which approach within a half mile of each other. The upper grove contains three hundred and sixty- five trees; one for eveiy day in the year, with large ones for Sundays. By an unfortunate omission, however, it makes no provision for leap year. This is the principal objection which luimarried spinster tourists have thus far been able to urge against it.
The lower grove has two hundred and forty-one trees, generally smaller than ttiose of the upper grove. The total number in both groves, according to the latest official count, is six hundred and six.
Within ten years several trees have fallen, and others follow thei^i from time to time, so that the most accurate count of them made in any one year might not tally with another equally careful count a year earlier or later.
THE MARIPOSA GROVE. 63
Among the prostrate trees lies the " Fallen Giant/' measuring eighty-five feet around, three feet from the present base. The bark, the sapwood, the roots, and probably the original base, are all burned away. When standing, this monster must have been by far the largest in both groves, and, indeed, Ifirger than any now known in the world. It should have been called " Lucifer," a name hereby respectfully submitted for the consideration of future tourists.
The living trees of this species exude a dark- colored substance, looking like gum, but readily dissolving in water. This has a veiy acrid, bitter taste, which probably aids in preserving the tree from injurious insects, and preventing the decay of the woody fibre.
The fruit or seed is hardly conical, but rather ellipsoidal or rudely oval in form, an inch and a half long by one inch through, and looking far too insignificant to contain the actual germ of the most gigantic structure known to botanical science.
Their age, indicated by the concentric rings of annual growth, carefully counted and registered by the gentlemen of the State Survisy, varies from five to thirteen, possibly fifteen, centuries.
The word '^ Sequoia," is the Latin form of the Indian Sequoyah, the name of a Cherokee Inclian of mixed blood, w^ho is supposed to have been born about 1770, and who lived in Will's Yalley, in the
64 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
extreme northeastern corner of Alabama, among the Cherokees. His English name Tvas George Guess. He became famous by his invention of an alphabet, and written letters for his tribe. This alphabet was constructed with wonderful ingenuity. It consisted of eighty-six characters, each repre- senting a syllable, and it had already come into considerable use before the whites heard anything of it. After a while, the missionaries took up Sequoyah's idea, had types cast, supj)lied a j)rint- ing press to the Cherokee nation, and in 1828 started a newspaper printed partly with these types. Driven, with the rest of his tribe, bej^ond the Mississippi, he died in New Mexico, in 1843. His alphabet is still in use, though destined to pass away with his doomed race, but not into complete oblivion, for his name, attached to one of the gi'andest productions of the vegetable kingdom will keep his memory forever green.
For the foregoing bit of- aboriginal biography, we gTatefully acknowledge our obligation to *Prof . Brewer and the gentlemen of the State Sui-vey, to whom he originally furnished it.
Had Sequoyah's* name been Cadmus — had the Cherokees been Phenicians — aud had this modern heathen of the eighteenth century invented his alphabet away back before the Christian era, his name would have stood in every school history among those of inventors, philosophers, discoverers
THE MARIPOSA GROVE. 65
and benefactors ; as it is he's *' only an Indian." No one can deny, however, that he was one of the best re(a)d men in the history of the world.
Botji the Calaveras and the Mariposa groves con- tain hollow trunks of fallen trees, through which, or into which, two and even three horsemen can ride abreast for sixty or seventy feet. Each grove, also, has trees which have been burned out at the base, but have not fallen. Still standing, they con- tain or enclose huge charcoal-lined rooms, into which one can ride. The writer has been one of four mounted men who rode their horses into such a cavity in the Mariposa grove, and reined their horses up side by side without crowding each other or pressing the outside one against the wall.
One who has seen only the ordinary big trees of *' down east," or " out west," forests, finds it hard to believe that any such vegetable monsters can really exist. Even the multiplied and repeated assurances of friends who have actually '* 8een them, sir," and " measured them myself, I tell you," hardly arrest the outward expression of incredulity, and seldom win the inward faith of the skeptical hearer. Fancy j^ourself sitting down to an after- dinner chat in the fifteen-foot sitting room, adjoin- ing the dining room of equal size. You fall to talking of 'the " Big Trees." You say, '' Why, my dear sjr, I have actually rode into, and sat upon my horse in, a tree whose hollow was so big that you
66 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
could put botli these rooms into it, side by side, and still have seyen or eight feet of solid wood standing on each side of me. No, sir, not romancing at all. It's an actual, scientific, measured/«c^, sir." ^ Your friend looks quizzically and incredulously into both your eyes, as he says, " Why, now see here, my dear fellow, do you supj^ose I'm going to believe that ? Tell a moderate whopper, and back it up with such repeated assertion and scientific authoiity, and you might possibly make me believe it, or at least, allow it until you were fairly out of hearing; but to sit here at a man's own fireside and tell him such a monstrous story as that, and expect him to swallow it for truth — ah, no, my dear fellow, that's too much, altogether too much."
So you have to give it over and drop the argu- ment for the present, in the hope that some one of the numerous excursion jiarties, now so rapidly multiplying every year, will soon include him, cany him into the actual j)resence of these veritable monsters of the vegetable kingdom, confront him with theu' colossal columns, and compel his belief.
And yet the general incredulity is hardly to be wondered M, after all. In nearly every one of us, our faith in what may be, largely depends upon our j)ersonal knowledge of the facts which have been. In matters pertaining to the outward, the material, the physical world, our actual experience of the j)ast governs our belief as to the future. And even
BIG TREES. 67
when the objects of our disbelief are set bodily be- fore our vision, and we have actually seen tliem and handled them, it is often difficult to believe our own eyes. So far is " seeing from believing" when the sight so far surpasses all former experience.
There is another grove of big trees in Fresno county, about fourteen miles southeast of Clark's. It is not far from a conspicuous point called Wam- melo Eock. The State Survey did not include it, neither have tourists usually visited it. According to the description of Mr. Clark, who has partially explored it, it extends for more than two miles and a half in length, by from one to two in width. He has counted five hundred trees in it, and believes- it to contain not far from six hundred in all. The largest which he measured had a circumference of eighty-one feet at three feet from the ground.
Following along the slope of the Sierras, to the southeast about fifty miles, l^etween King's aild Kaweah rivers, we find the largest grove of these trees yet discovered in the State.
The State Survey partially explored this locality, and have given us the following particulars: The trees form a belt rather than a grove. This belt is found about thirty miles north-northeast of Visalia, near the tributaries of the King's and Kaweah rivers, and along the divide between. They are scattered up and down the slopes and along the
68 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
valleys, but reach tlieir greatest size ia tlie shallow basins where the soil is more moist.
Along the trail from VisaKa to Big Meadows the belt is four or five miles wide and extends through a verticalTange of twenty-five hundred feet; that is, the trees along the lower edge of the bplt stand nearly half a mile in perpendicular height below those along its upper boundary. The length of this belt is as much as eight or ten .miles and may be more.
These trees are not collected in groves, but straggle along through the forests in company with the other species usually found at this height in the Sierras. They are most abundant between six and seven thousand feet above the sea. Their num- ber is very great; probably thousands might be counted. In size, however, they are not remarka- ble; that is, in comparison mth those of Calaveras aftd Marix^osa. Bj^t few exceed twenty feet in diameter — the average is from ten to twelve feet, while the great majority are smaller.
One tree which had been felled, had a diameter of eight feet, not including the bark, and was three hundred and seventy-seven years old. The largest one seen wag near Thomas' ^lill. This had a cir- cumference of one hundred and six feet near the ground, though quite a portion of the base had been burned away.
Another tree, which had fallen and been burnecT
%
BIG TREES. 69
hollow, was so large that three horsemen could ride abreast into the cavity for thii'ty feet, its inside height and width being nearly twelve feet. Seventy feet in, the diameter of the cavity was still as much as eight feet.
The base of this tree could not be easily meas- ured ; but the trunk was burned off at one hundred and twenty feet from the base, and at that point had a diameter, not including the bark, of thirteen feet and two inehes. At one hundred and sixty- nine feet from its base, this tree was still nine feet through. The Indians speak of a still Jarger tree to the north of King's river. It was not in the power of the State Survey to look it up and meas- ure it at that time.
All through these forests young Big Trees of all sizes, from the seedling upwards, were very numer- ous. At Thomas' Mill they cut them up into lum- ber, as if they were the most common tree in the forest.
Fallen tininks of old .trees are also numerous. Many of these must have lain for ages, as they had almost wholly rotted away, though the wood is very durable.
Judging from the number o'f these trees found between King's and Kaweah rivers, it would seem that the Big Trees best like that locality and its vicinity, so that it is not improbable that a further
70 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
exiDloration would show a continuous belt of some fifty or sixty miles in extent.
From tlie researches thus far made, it appears that the Big Tree is not as strange and exceptional as most supj)ose. It occurs in such abundance, of all ages and sizes, that there is no reason to con- clude that it is djdng out, or that it belongs exclu- sively to some past geological or botanical epoch. The age of the big trees is not as great as that as- signed by some of the highest auffiorities to some of the English yews. And in height tHey hardly begin to equal that of the Australian Eucalyptus amygdalina, many of which, on the authority of Dr. MuUer, the eminent Government botanist, have ex- ceeded four hundred feet. One, indeed, reached the enormous height of four hundred and eighty feet, thus overtopping the tallest Sequoia by one hundred and fifty-five feet. And in diameter, alsS, there are trees which exceed th^ Big Tree, as, for example, the Baobab; but these are always compar- atively low, rarely reachirfg the height of more than sixty or seventy feet, while their excessive diameter comes from a peculiarly swollen and distoi*ted base. On the whole, we may safely claim that no known tree in the world equals the California Big Trees in -the combined elements of size and height, -and in consequent grandeur, unless, indeed, it may be the Eucalyptus. The largest Australian tree yet re- ported, is said to be eighty-one feet in circumfer-
BIG TREES.
ence, four feet from tlie ground. This is a highly respectable vegetable, but not quite equal to the certified measurements of some of the largest of the California JBig Trees.
So the American tourist through the wonders of California, may yet claim that his country still 230s- sesses the loftiest waterfalls, the most overpower- ing cliffs, and the grandest trees yet known upon the face of the globe.
eANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
BOWER CAVE.
The traveler who desires good roads, romantic scenery, comfortable conTeyances-, and excellent hotel accommodations, will be sure to go in or come out by way of Coulterville. This town lies on Max- well creek, a branch of the Merced, about eighteen hundred feet above the sea, and not far from the border-land between the *' foot-hills*' and the mountains proper. The road nins from Coulter- ville nearly northeast, about eight miles, when it strikes the North Fork of the Merced. Along the side of this stream it descends fgr a short distance, then crosses and passes near the
Bo^wer Cave.
This is a picturesque and unique locality, and is well worth a visit.
The cave is an immense crack or sink, or both combined, in the solid limestone of the mountain- top. At the sui'face it presents a somewhat cres- cent-shaped Oldening, one hundred and thirty-three feet long, eighty-six feet wide near the centre, antl
BOWER CAVE.
one hundred and nine feet deep in the deej)est place. Trees grow from the bottom and lift their branches out through the opening at the top, while a beautifully tranquil and wonderfully clear lake occupies the greater portion of the floor.
We enter at the north end and go down by a rough but strong and safe staircase. The walls of the cleft are perpendicular, or nearly so, thoughout the greater portion of their extent, but near the south end the upper part of the wall projects or overhangs several feet.
The bottom has the form of an irregular square, measuring over a hundred feet one way and some- what less than a hundred the other. From the bottom and near the centre grow three large maples, the largest of which is more than two feet through, and about a hundred and twenty-five feet high. Around these trees are benches, capable of seating a score or two of persons. On one side of the wall, some twenty feet above the bottom, is a singular niche or alcove which has been christened the "Pulpit." It is occasionally used for the legiti- mate purpose of similar constructions, though more frequently occupied by the fiddler of some festive party. Upon special occasions, such as a Fourth of July celebration, they erect tables here and use all the available floor as a dining hall. Over a hun- dred have thus dined here at one time.
In one corner, and nearly under the pulpit, is a 4
74 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
small but singularly beautiful lake, rendered some- wliat ghostly and mysterious by the overhanging rocky wall, and the intercepted light falling through the overshadowing trees. Upon this lake is a small boat, in which the imaginative visitor may easily fancy himself crossing the Styx, Tvith himself as his own Charon. Not far from the corner of this lake, nearly under the pulj)it, the water is claimed to have an immense depth. In all parts it is so clear that one can plainly see the cracks and crev- ices in the sloping limestone sides at the depth of foiiy feet. The vision would, doubtless, penetrate much deejjer did not the overhanging walls obstruct the light.
Having rowed across the lake, as you are return- ing to the shore, the guide may possibly ask you to keep very quiet while he calls and feeds his fish. He gives a few soft whistles, places his hand in the water, waits a moment, repeats his whistle, and softly whispers, " Here they come." Up swim sev- eral large trout, rub their noses against his hand, and circle slowly around it, evidently waiting for the customar}" food. And that hand seldom disap- points them. It is a pleasant and restful sight. After enjoying it, seeing them finish feeding, and returning to the landing, you ask the guide how they became so tame. He tells you, that for seve- ral weeks after putting them into the lake, which he did some years ago, he came every day, about
BOWER CAVE. 75
the same time, softly whistling and gently dropping crumbs and worms into the water. After a few days he began to hold on to one end of a worm while the trout would swim up, take hold of the other end and tug away until he pulled it apart, or the hand let go. After a few months they seemed to have learned to associate the whistling and the feeding, so that whenever they hear the first they swim up in evident expectation of the second.
At various heights upon one wall several large cavities or small caves are worn into the rock, some of which admit the tourist for a considerable dis- tance. These make that side of the wall a collec- tion of cells, some of which are high enough to per- mit the visitor to walk erect; others so low that they compel one who would enter to crawl upon his hands and knees. When first discovered, the , walls of these chambers were covered with beautiful stalactites of various sizes and fanciful forms, but the ruthless hands of vandal visitors have gradually broken them off and carried them away, until hardly a trace of theu' original beauty and variety remains.
During the heat of the summer, the time when nearly all visitors enter this cave, its cool and refreshing temperature makes it a comfortable and welcome retreat, especially during the hotter mid- day hours. The place seems as if nature and art had combined to make it as attractive as possible
76 BANCROFTS TOURIST'S GUIDE.
for hot weather j)iciiics, or midsummer lunch parties. It is difficult to imagine, and almost im- possible to discover a more fascinating combination of dell and grotto, grove and lake, cave- and bower, than nature has kindly provided for the toiuist in the romantic Bower Cave.
ALABASTER CAVE.
The following account of one of the most beau- tiful of all nature's marvels, is taken, with few alter- ations, from Yosemite Hutchings' book, entitled " Scenes of "Wonder and Curiosity in California.'
The Alabaster Cave is in El Dorado County, twelve and a half miles from Folsom by the "Whisky Bar" road, and ten miles by the El Dorado Valley turnpike. Its more exact location is upon Kidd's Ravine, about three quarters of a mile from its opening upon the north fork of the American River. From Sacramento it is thirty-three miles; by rail to Folsom; from Auburn, about three miles, by stage.
It was discovered in April, 1860, in the following way: A ledge of limestone, resembling marble in appearance, cropped out by the side of El Dorado Valley turnpike road. Ux)on testing it was found to be capable of producing excellent lime.
On the 18fch of April, 1860, two workmen, George S. Hatterman and John Harris, were quariying limestone from this ledge, when, upon the removal of a large piece of rock, they discovered a dark
78 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
opening sufficiently enlarged to permit their en- trance. "Availing themselves of the light x^ouring in through the opening, they went in as far as they could see — some fifty feet. Before venturing fur- ther into the darkness, they threw a stone forward, which, striking in water, determined them to return for lights. At this junctui-e Mr. Gwinn, the owner of the ledge, came up, and, upon learning of their discovery, immediately sent for candles to enable them to further prosecute their explorations. The result of these, after several hours spent in them, can hardly be better described than in Mr. Gwinn's own language, taken from a letter, dated April 19, 1860, addressed to Mr. Holmes, a gentleman friend of his residiag in Sacramento, and first published in the Bee^ of that city:
" Wonders will never cease. On yesterday, we, in quarrying rock, made an opening to the most beautiful cave you ever beheld. On our first en- trance we descended about fifteen feet, gradually, to the centre of the room, w^hich is one hundred by thirty feet. At the north end there is a most mag- nificent pulpit, in the Episcopal church style, that man has' ever seen. It seems that it is, and should be, called the "Holy of Holies." It is completed with the most beautiful drapery of alabaster sterites of all colors, varying from white to pink-red, over- hanging the beholder. Immediately under the pulpit there is a beautiful lake of water, extending
ALABASTER CAVE. 79
to an unknown distance. We thought this all, but, to our great admiration, on arriving at the centre of the first room, we saw an entrance to an inner chamber, still more splendid; two hundred by one hundred feet, with the most beautiful alabaster overhanging in every possible shape of drapery. Here stands magnitude, giving the instant impres- sion of a power above man ; grandeur that defies decay ; antiquity that tells of ages unnumbered; beauty that the touch of time makes more beautiful; use exhaustless for the service of men; strength imperishable as the globe, the monument of eter- nity— the truest earthly emblem of that everlasting and unchangeable, irresistible Majesty, by whom, and for whom, all things were made."
As soon as the news spread, hundreds of people flocked to see the newly discovered wonder, from all the surrounding mining settlements, so that within the first six days, it was visited by upwards of four hundred persons, many of whom, we regret to say, possessed a larger organ of acquisitiveness than of veneration, and laid vandal hands on some of the moFt beautiful portions within reach, near the entrance. Upon this, the proprietor closed it until arrangements could be made for its protection and systematic illumination; the better' to see and not to touch the specimens.
At this time Messrs. Smith & Hatterman leased the cave and immediately began to prepare it for
8o BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
the reception of tlie public by building barricades, platforms, etc. , and placing a large number of lamps at favorable points, for tlie better illumination and inspection of the different chambers.
At the time of its discovery, in the spring, consid- erable water was standing in some of the deepest of the cavities, but it presently began to recede at the rate of nearly six inches a day, and continued to do so, until, in a few weeks, it had entirely dis- appeared, leaving the cave perfectly dry. This afforded opportunity for further exploration, upon which it was found that a more convenient entrance coulcl be made, with but little labor, from an unim- poi-tant room within a few feet of the road. This was accordingly done, and the new opening, in ad- dition to its increased. convenience, allows the free circulation of pure air.
Having thus given a historical sketch of its discov- ery, with other matters connected with its preserva- tion and management, we shall now endeavor to take the reader with us, at least in imagination, while attempting a detailed description of its inte- rior.
Upon approaching the cave from the roadside, we descend three or four steps to a board floor. Here is a door which is always carefully locked when no visitors are within. Passing on we enter a cham- ber about twenty-five feet long by seventeen feet wide and from five to twelve and a half feet in height.
ALABASTER CAVE.
Though very plain and comparatively unattrac- tive at both roof and 'sides, it is yet quite curious, especially to visitors unaccustomed to caves. Here is also a desk, upon which lies a book inscribed, *' Coral Cave Register. " This book was presented by some gentlemen of San Francisco, who thought that the name '* Coral Cave" would be more appro- priate. The impression produced upon our mind upon the first walk through it, was that ' ' Alabaster Cave" would be equally as good a name, but, upon examining it more thoroughly , we afterwards thought, that as a great proportion of the ornaments at the roots of the stalactites look like beautifully frozen mosses, or very fine coral, and the long icicle-look- ing pendants being more like alabaster, the name. Coral Cave, was to be preferred. But as Mr. Gwinn had given the name ' ' Alabaster" to the works themselves, on account of the purity and whiteness of the limestone there found, even before the dis- covery of the cave, we cheerfully acquiesce in the name originally given.
The register was opened April twenty-fourth, 1860, and upon our visit, September thirtieth of the same year, two thousand seven hundred and twenty-one names had been registered. Some three or four thousand persons had visited it before the register was provided, many declined entering their names after it was furnished, and many others vis- ited it after the date of our visit, so that it is prob-
82 BANCROFT'S tOURIST' S GUIDE.
able that the number of persons who entered this cave during the year of its discovery must have been nearly or quite three thousand five hundred.
Advancing beyond the vestibule, or register room, along another passage or room, our e^'es rest on several notices, such as, " Please not touch the specimens." " No smoking allowed," " Hands and feet off," with feel scratched out, amputation of those members not intended!
The low, shelving, rocky wall upon the left and near the end of the passage are covered with coral- like excrescences, resembling bunches of coarse rock-moss. This brings us to the entrance of the
Dungeon of Enchantment.
Before us is a broad, oddly-shaped and low-roofed chamber, about one hundred and twenty feet long, by seventy in width, and from four to twenty feet high.
Bright coral-like stalactites hang down in irreg- ular rows and in almost every variety of shape and shade, from milk-white to cream color; forming a most agreeable contrast with the dark arches and the frowning buttresses on either hand, while low- browed ridges, some almost black, others of a red- dish-brown, stretch from either side, the space between which is ornamented with a peculiar kind of coloring which nearly resembles a grotesque species of graining.
ALABASTER CAVE. 83
Descending toward the left, we approach one of the most singularly beautiful groups of stalactites in this apartment. Some of these are fine pendants, hardly larger than pipestems, from two to five feet long, and hollow from end to end. When the cave was first discovered there were four or five of these pendants over eight feet long, but the early admit- ted vandals ruthlessly destroyed, or selfishly car- ried them off. Others resemble the ears of white elephants, or, rather, the white elephant of Siam, while others still present the appearance of long and slender cones, inverted.
Examining this and other groups more closely, we discover at their bases coral-like excrescences of great beauty; here, like petrified moss, brilliant, and almost transparent ; there, a pretty fungus, tipped and spangled with diamonds; yonder, mini- ature pine trees, which, with a most obliging dispo- sition to accommodate themselves to circumstances, grow bottom up. In other places appear fleeces of the finest merino or silky floss.
Leaving these, and turning to the right, we can ascend a ladder into the loftiest part of this cham- ber. Here new combinations of beauty surprise and delight us. Thence passing on, we come to a large stalagmite, whose form and size suggest a tying post for horses. This has been dignified, or mystified, anything but beautified, by different names, more or less appropriate. One is " Lot's
84 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
Wife." If the woman was no liiglier than the stag- lamite, she must have been a dwarf, for the top of the post is but four feet and a quarter above its bottom, while its diameter at the bottom is hardly one foot. Its two other names, " Hercules' Club," and " Brobdignag's Forefinger," are more appro- priate, though the latter would suggest an " exag- geration," as Mrs. Partington would have it.
Continuing on, we pass over a gently rising floor resembling solidified snow, until we approach the verge of, and look down into, an immense abyss, surmounted by a cavernous roof. Icicle and coral formations depend from the roof , and a rude draj)ery of jet covers the sides. Here is suspended a singu- lar petrifaction resembling a human heart, which which looks as if it might have belonged to one of the primitive Titans, or come from the chest of that Miltonian monster, whose spear-shaft was like a Norway pine.
On one side of this is an elevated and nearly level natui'al floor, upon which a table and seats have been temporarily erected for the convenience of choristers, choirs or singing societies, and even for the accommodation of public worship, should any desire to witness or participate in it in this most beautiful of God's natural temples. The lover of sacred music would be delighted beyond measure to hear these " vaulted hills" resound the symj)ho- nies of Mozart, Haydn or Mendelssohn. Scores of
#
ALABASTER CAVE. 85
these pendent harps would vibrate in unison, or echo them in delicious harmonies from chamber to chamber, or bear them from roof to wall in dimin- ishing reverberations even to the most remote of these rock-formed corridors.
We may not linger here too long, so passing hence, we enter other and smaller chambers, along whose roofs we trace formations that resemble streams of water suddenly- arrested in their flow and turned to ice. In another, a peculiarly shajoed pet- rifaction presents a perfectly formed beet from one point of view, while from another it resembles a small elephant's head. Not far hence, a bell-shaped hollow, a beautiful combination of grotto and ar- cade, has received the name of '' Julia's Bower."
Once more advancing, a narrow^ low-roofed pas- sage brings us into the most beautiful chamber of all, the
Crystal Cliapel.
No language can suitably convey, nor any com- parisons worthily suggest, the combined beauty and magnificence of this wonderful spot. ' ' From the beginning," says Hutchings, " we have felt that we were almost presumptuous in attempting to portray these wonderful scenes, but, in hope of inducing others to see, with their natural eyes, the sights that we have seen, and enjoy the pleasure that we have enjoyed, we entered upon the task, even though inadequately, of giving an outline — nothing
86 BAXCROFT\S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
more. Here, however, we confess ourselves entirely at a loss.
''The sublime grandeur of this imposing sight fills the soul with astonishment that swells up from within as though its purpose was to make the be- holder speechless, the language of silence being the most fitting and impressive when puny man treads the great halls of nature, the more surely to lead him, humbly, from these to the untold gloiy of the Infinite One who devised the laws, and superin- tended the processes that brought such wonders into being.
" After the mind seems prepared to examine this gorgeous spectacle somewhat in detail, we look upon the ceiling, if we may so speak, which is en- iirely covered with myiiads of the most beautiful of stone icicles, long, large and brilliant ; between these are squares or panels, the mullions and bars of which seem to be formed of diamonds; while the panels themselves resemble the frosting upon win- dows in the very depth of winter; and even those are of many colors, that most prevailing being of a light pinkish-cream. Moss, coral, floss, wool, trees, and many other forms, adorn the interstices between the larger of the stalactites. At the further end is one vast mass of rock, resembling congealed water, apparently formed into many folds and hillocks ; in many instances connected by pillars with the roof above. Deep down and underneath this is the en- trance by which we reached the chamber.
ALABASTER CAVE. 87
"At our right stands a large staglamite, dome- shaped at the top, and covered with beautifully undulating and wavy folds. Every imaginable gracefulness possible to the most curiously arranged drapery, is here visible, ' carved in alabaster' by the Great Architect of the universe. This is named 'The Pulpit.'
" In order to examine this object with more mi- nuteness, a temporary platform has been erected, which, although detractive of the general effect, in our opinion, affords a nearer and better view of all these remarkable objects in detail.
" This spectacle, as well as the others, being bril- liantly illuminated, the scene is very imposing, and reminds one of those highly-wrought pictures of the imagination, painted in such charming language , and with such good effect in such works as the * Arabian Nights.'
" Other apartments known as the ' Picture Gal- lery,' etc., might well" detain us longer, but, as in many of their most important particulars, they bear a striking resemblance to those already described, we leave them for the tourist to examine for him- self." If what we have said excites the desire of any tourist to visit this new combination of wonder and beaut}^, we are quite sure he will agree with us that the words of man utterly fail to adequately pic- ture forth the works of God, and will ever after de- light his soul with the life-long memory of his charm- ing visit to the wonderful Alabaster Cave.
Tourist's Complete Guide
San Francisco, Suburbs and Vicinity;
With Special Trips and Short Excursions in and
ABOUT THE CiTY.
I. CITY PROPER.
Sketch op the City — Historical, Topographical, General Plan 95-107
Appboaches to the City — From the east, by boat; from the south, by rail; from the ocean, by steamship, 107-113
Conveyances — Hacks, Coaches, Cars, Porters, Legal Eates, Caution, Baggage and Package Express, - - 113-116
Hotels — Grand, Occidental, Cosmopolitan, Lick House, Brooklyn, Euss House, American Exchange, Morton House, International, Hotel Gailhard, What Cheer, (males only), - - - . - - - - 116-12]
Lodging Houses — Nucleus, Clarendon, - - - 121
Eestaueants — Saulman's, Swain's, Job's, Martin's, Ler- mitte's, - . 121-122
Baths — Fresh, Salt, Turkish, Eussian, Eoman, Steam and Vapor, 122
Places of Amusement — California, Metropolitan, Alham- bra, Maguire's, and Chinese Theatres; Museums, Melo- deons. Dance Halls, and Beer Cellars, - - 122-125
Halls — Piatt's, Union, Pacific, Mercantile Library, Me- chanic's Institute, Y. M. C. A., Mozart, Dashaway, 125-126
Billiards, Bowling Saloons and Shooting Galleries, 127-128
92 BANCROFT'S TOURISTS GUIDE.
Gymnasiums — 01ymf)ic Club, Y. M. C. A., German Turn Verein, Skating Kinks, Base Ball Ground, - 128-130
Gaedens— Woodward's, City, - - . - 130-140
Menageeies — Woodward's Zoological Grounds, North Beach, 140
Squares and Paeks — Plaza, (Portsmouth Square). Wash- ington Square, South Park, 141
Peomenades -Montgomery Street, Kearny Street, Califor- nia Street. Best Time, ----- 141-144
Deives — Cliff House Eoad, Ocean House Road, Bay View, New Ocean Koad, Best Time, - - - - * 145-148
LiBEABiES AND Eeading Eooms — Mercantile, Mechanic's Institute, Odd Fellow's, Pioneers, Y. M. C. A., What Cheer, Woodward's Gardens, 148
Public Buildings — Federal: Post Office, Custom House, Old Mint, New Mint, Marine Hospital. City and County: Old City Hall, New City Hall, Jail, Almshouse, Indus- trial School, Engine Houses, Engines. Corporation and Society Buildings: Pioneer's, Merchant's Exchange, Bank of California, Mercantile Library Building, Mechanic's Institute, Masonic Temple, Odd Fellow's Hall, Y. M. C. A. Building, Mechanics' PaviHon, - - - 148-157
Business Buildings and Blocks— Alta California Building, Bancroft's, Donohoe, Kelly & Co., Hai-jDending's Block, Murphy, Grant & Co., Tobin, Dixon & Davisson, Tread- well's, Tucker's, Wells, Fargo & C.'s Building, White House, . - - 157-1^9
Manufactoeies — Kimball Car and Carriage Factory, Paci- fic Eolliiig Mills, Mission Woolen Mills, Foundi-ies and Iron Works, Locomotives, Boilers, Mining Machinery, Shot Tower and Lead Works, Sugar Befinery, Glass Works, Ship Yards, ------ 159-161
Chubches — Baptist, Congregational, Ejiiscopal, Jewish, Methodist, Presbyterian, Roman Catholic, Swedcn- borgian. Unitarian, Chinese Mission House, Mariner's Church, Old Mission Chui-ch, - - - - 161-167
Hospitals and Asylums — City and County, French, Ger- man, Protestant Oiphan, Roman Catholic Orphan, 167-169
Colleges — California Business University, City College, St. Ignatius', St. Mary's, Toland Medical, . - 169-170
SAN FRANCISCO AND ^VICINITY. 93
School Buildings — Denman, Girl's High, Lincoln, Val- encia Street, - - 171-172
Printing, Lithographing, Binding, and Blank Book Mann- factiiring Establishment, 172-173
PRIVATE Kesidences — Davis', Eldridges, Laidley's, La- tham's, Bancroft's, Otis', Parrott's, Tallant's, Taylor's, Tobin's, - - - 174
Points of Obseevation — Telegraph Hill, Ktissian Hill, Clay Street Hill, California Street Hill, Kiucon Hill, Lone Mountain, Twin Peaks, Bernal Heights, U. S. Observatory. Views from each, _ - _ 174-184
Plow TO Get About — Horse Car Lines, Eoutes, Distances, Times, Fares, Buggies, Carriages, Coaches and Saddle Horses; qualities of, and charges for. Hacks, with rates of hire, 184-188
II. SUBUKBS AND VICINITY.
Commencing at the foot of Market street, thence southward along or near the water front, continuing around the en- tire city and returning to the point of starting. Also, mentioning more distant points, visible to the spectator looking beyond the suburbs.
LuMBEE Yaeds ; Wharves and Merchant Fleet; California and Oregon S. S. Co.'s Wharves and Ships ; Black Dia- mond Coal Co.'s Pier; Kincon Point; U. S. Marine Hos- pital ; P. M. S. S. Co.'s Piers, Docks, Sheds and Ships ; Gas Works : C. P. K. E. Co,'s Freight Pier, Depot and Boat ; Mission Bay; Mission Kock ; U. S. Ship Anchor- age ; Steamboat Reserves ; Long Bridge ; Yacht Club and Boat-house, with Yachts ; Potrero ; Glass Works ; Pacific Rolling Mill ; Deep Cut; Islais Creek and Bridge; Rope Walk ; Italian Fishing Fleet and Flakes ; Celestial Ditto ; South San Francisco ; Catholic Orphan Asylum ; Hunter's Point ; Dry Dock ; Bay View Race Course ; Visitacion Point and Valley ; San Bruno Road ; New Butchertown ; Ocean House Road ; Lake Honda ; Alms- house ; Small Pox Hospital ; Ocean House Race Track ; Lake Merced; Ocean House; Pacific Beach; Seal Rocks; Cliff House ; Farallones ; Point Lobos ; Signal Station ;
94 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
Helmet Rock; Fort Point ; Fort ; Light-House ; Golden Gate ; Lime Point ; Point Bonita ; Mountain Lake ; Lobos Creek : Presidio ; Barracks ; Parade Ground ; Black Point ; Pacific Woolen Mills ; North Beach ; An- gel Island ; Alcatraz ; North Point ; Sea Wall ; Ferries,
188-196
III. HOW TO SEE THE CITY.
Under this head we suggest :
Morning, or half-day excursions, in and about the city and
its suburbs.
I. IN AND ABOUT THE CITY.
1. Montgomery Street, Telegraph Hill, North Beach, Washington Square, The Plaza, City Hall, Kearny street, 197
2. Chinese Quarter, 197
3. Third street, South Park, Long Bridge, Potrero, South San Francisco, Dry Dock, - - - - _ 201
4. Water Front, (south), Stewart street, P. M. S. S. Co.'s Docks and Mammoth Steamships, Foundries, Factories, Shot Tower, - - 202
5. Water Fi'ont, (north), Sea Wall, North Point, Ware- houses and Clippers, Iron Ships, Bay and Eiver Steam- boats and Docks, .---.-- 202
6. Southwestern Suburbs, Mission street, Woodward's Gardens, Old Mission Church, Jewish Cemeteries, Woolen MiUs, Howard street, 202
7. Western Suburbs and Beyond Bush street. Laurel Hill, Lone Mountain Cemeteries, Cliff House Eoad, Race Track, Cliflf House, Seal rocks. Pacific Beach, Ocean House, Road Track, Lake Honda, New Ocean Road, 203
8. Northwestern Suburbs and Beyond: Russian Hill, Spring Yalley, Fort Point, Fortress, Lighthouse, Golden Gate, Presidio, Black Point, 203
SAN FRANCISCO.
Historical.
The site of what is now tlie city of San Francis- co was first permanently occupied by white men, September 17, 1776. The same year witnessed the entrenchment of a garrison and the establishment of a Mission.
San Francisco owes its origin to Catholic mis- sionaries and Spanish soldiers. Father Junipero Serra led the missionaries — and virtually command- ed the soldiers. The name San Francisco was given in honor of Saint Francis of Asisis, a city of Italy, the founder of the order of Franciscans to which Father Junipero belonged. The presidio, garrison or fort, was founded first, Sept. 17, and the mission about three weeks later, Oct. 9th. The site first chosen was near a small lagoon back of, that is, west of, what is now called Russian Hill, but the prevailing winds proved so high and bitter as to colnpel its early removal to the more shelter- ed spot, over a mile south, under the lee of high hills, and near the present Mission Creek. Here,
96 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
at the head, of what is now Center or Sixteenth Street, the old church stni stands.
For nearly sixty years the mission stood, the nu- cleus of a little Tillage of rude adobe houses, ten- anted by a fluctuating poj^ulation of Indians, Mexicans and Spanish — and the center of a mili- tary and religious authority, which upon more than one occasion made itself felt and feared for leagTies around. The population rarely rose above four hundi'ed and frequently fell to less than a hundred and fifty.
In 1835, Capt. W. A. Kichardson put up the first pioneer dwelling, with rude wooden walls and sail- cloth roof. On the fourth of July of the next year, 1836, Jacob P. Leese finished the first frame house. This house stood where the St. Francis Hotel now stands, — on the southwest corner of Clay and Dupont streets, a single block west of the pres- ent City Hall. Leese had his store on the beach, which was where Montgomery and Commercial streets now intersect. N.early seven soUd blocks of made-land now stretch between where that old beach lay and the present water front. Other houses soon rose near that of Leese, and presently the villagers saw their little settlement fast approaching the dignity of a new town, and cast about to find a name. Nature caused it to spring out of the ground for them in the form of a species of aromatic mint, which, surroundiag their
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITV. 97
dwellings, perfuming the morning air and supply- ing frequent and varied medicinal needs, had proved indeed, as the Spaniards called it, " Yerba Buena," the Good Herb. So the herb named the town, and the name ^^ stuck," as the Calif ornians say, for nearly a dozen years. During these years the houses grew in number, until 1847, when the town contained seventy-nine buildings, — thirty-one frame, twenty-six adobe, and the rest shanties — and these houses sheltered three hundred souls, or, at least, that number of bodies. On the 30th of Jan- uary of that year, these three hundred dropped the old name Yerba Buena, and adopted the older one, which had belonged to the neighboring mission for nearly fourscore years. Thus the town also became San Francisco, and has ever since so remained. The first steamboat appeared in the bay, Novem- ber 15th of the same year. In March, 1848, the houses had grown to two hundred, and the popula- tion to eight hundred and fifty. On the third of the next month, the first. public school began.
New Year's Day, '49, the new city claimed a pop- ulation of two thousand. Three days later the two previously published weekly papers merged into the Alta California, the earliest established of all news- papers now existing in the State.
The early miners were making from twenty to thirty dollars a day, getting " bags" of dust and "piles" of nuggets, and rushing down to "Frisco"
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to gamble it away. These were the *' flush times" of the new city. Fresh eggs cost from seventy-five cents to one dollar apiece. For a beefsteak and a cup of coffee for breakfast one had to pay a dollar and a half, and a dinner cost him from two to ten or even twenty dollars, according to apjDctite and drinketite. Rough labor brought the old Congres- sional pay of eight dollars a day; di'aymen earned twenty dollars a day; and family "help" could hardly be had for forty, or even fifty, dollars a week. The great mass of the men lived in tents. Very few women had come, but those few were overwhelmed with attention; if one wished to cross the street in the rainy season, a score of brawny arms would fight for the privilege of gallantly wading through the sea of mud to carry her across the unpaved street.
Great fires came, foirr of them; the first the day before Chistmas, '49 — it burned over a million dol- lars worth; the second, May 4th, '50 — it destroyed three millions dollars worth. A little over a month later, June 14th, 1850, the most destmctive fire the city ever saw left it poorer by four millions of dol- lars; and on the 17th of the next September the fourth fire consumed another half million. Nearly nine million dollars worth burned in less than nine months !
Business thrived immensely. In 1852, more than seven vessels a day anived at or departed from San Francisco. Commerce overdid itself. Long piers
SAAT FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 99
ran out over the flats where now solid blocks of loft}^ buildings have stood for half a score of years. Sometimes storms kept back the clippers; then prices went still higher. Between March and November, flour went up from eight to forty dol- lars a barrel, while the " Alta " came down from its usual broad and sightly page to the size of a pane of window-glass, fourteen by ten. Villainy flour- ished; drinking, gambling, robbery and. murder held high carnival; the law did little, and did that little shabbily and tardily; so the people woke and resumed their original legislative, judicial, and es- pecially their executive, functions.
In '51 and '52, and again in '56, they came nobly to the front, hung the worst villains who defied the common law, frightened away the others, restored order, established security for honest men, and re- solved themselves again into law-abiding citizens. And thus, through perils of fire, social convulsions, and financial fluctuation, the cosmopolitan city has swept swiftly on until to-day, though having barely attained her majority, she stands in the first half- score of American cities. Every year she leaves a city or two behind in her steady progress toward the throne of the continent which she will surely occupy before the present century has fully fled.
Situation and Extent.
In extent, population, commerce, wealth and the growth, San Francisco of to-day is not only the
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chief city of California, but tlie great commercial metrojDolisof the whole Pacific slope. It is both a city and a county; the county occupies the extreme end of a hilly peninsula stretching north to the Golden Gate, between the Pacific Ocean on the west, and San Francisco bay on the east.
The whole peninsula has a length of from thirty- five to forty miles, with an average width of from twelve to fifteen miles. The average width of the county from bay to ocean is four and one half miles, and its extreme length, from the Golden Gate on the north, to the San Mateo County line on the south, is six miles and a half. Its boundary line being the natural one of a coast or shore on the west, north and east, is more or less irregular; on the south it is straight. Its entire area is^26,681 acres, including the Presidio reservation of 1,500 acres, which belongs to the general government.
The county also includes the Farallon Islands, lying nearly thirty miles west in the Pacific Ocean, with the islands of Alcatraz and Yerba Buena, or Goat Island, in San Francisco bay.
The city proper occupies the northeast corner of the county. Its limits extend about two miles and a half from east to west,' by three and a half from north to south, thus including between one fifth and one sixth the area of the county.
The natural surface was very uneven and the soil equally varied — sand beach, salt marsh, mud flats,
SAN FRANCISCO aM yidlMll'Y. '' ' ' idi
low plains, narrow ravines, small and shallow val- leys, elevated benches or plateaux, sandy knolls and dunes, and stretches of the close, adobe soil, made up its original surface; while rocky bluffg fortified its shore line, and extensive ledges under- laid its hills or cropped out from their sides, or crowned their tops. These hills varied in height from two hundred and sixty to four hundred and ten feet, while west and south of the city limits they rose still higher. One or two small lagoons lay sluggishly about, and as many. small streams found their way thence to the bay.
The original founders of the city, as is usual in similar cases, seemed never to suspect that they were moulding the beginnings of a grand metropolis. Hence they laid out what little they did project with the least possible regard to present symmetry, or the probable demands of future growth. The natural inequalities of surface, the grade and width of streets which must become necessary to a large city, reservations for public buildings, promenades, gardens, parks, etc., with the sanitary necessity of thorough drainage, were matters of which they seem to have been serenely unconscious, or, worse still, sublimely indifferent. And many of their immediate successors in authority were legitimate descendants, or humbly imitative followers.
We have not an important street in the city which conforms its course to the cardinal points of the
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a
compass, and but one main avenue, Market street, which begins to be wide enough. As Cronise truth- fully says: " The whole town stands askew."
We now proceed to ''orient" the tourist, as Horace Mann used to say, in regard to such streets, avenues, thoroughfares, cuts, parks, etc., as mainly constitute the highly artificial, though not particularly ornamental, topography of our little occidental village.
General Plan.
Market street is the widest and the longest, start- ing at the water front, half a mile east of the old City Hall, and slightly ascending through eight or nine blocks, it runs thence southwesterly on a nearly level grade beyond the city limits. Its west- ern end is yet unfinished. A mile and a half from the water it cuts through a moderately high and immoderately rocky hill, beyond which it stretches away toward the unfenced freedom of the higher hills, and the dead level of the western beach beyond, at which it will probably condescend ulti- mately to stop. Its sui'face presents every variety of natural conformation ingeniously varied with artificial distortion. Plank, nibble, McAdam, cob- ble, Nicolson, gravel. Stow foundation, gravel, adobe, sand, and finally undisguised dirt, offer their pleasing variety to the exploring eye. From two to four horse-railroad tracks diversify its surface
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 103
with their restful regularity, while the steam cars from San Jose follow their locomotive a short dis- tance up its western end.
Stately blocks, grand hotels, massive stores, lofty factories, tumble-down shanties, unoccupied lots and vacant sand-hills form its picturesque boundary on either hand. When the high summer winds sweep easterly down its broad avenue, laden with clouds of flying sand from vacant lots along its either margin, it becomes a decidedly open question whether the lots aforesaid really belong in the department of real estate, or should, properly enter the catalogue of "movable property."
"We have dwelt thus at length upon this street, not only on account of its central position and superior dimensions, but because it is a representa- tive street. Others are like it as far as they can be. They would resemble it still more closely, did length, width and direction permit. It is fast be- coming the great business street of the city, and, spite of the roughness and crudeness necessarily attaching to all the streets of a new and fast-grow- ing city, it unmistakably possesses all the requisites of the future "Grand Avenue" of the Pacific metropolis.
On the northeast of Market street, through the older portion of the city, the streets run at right angles with each other, though neither at right an- gles or parallel with Market. One set runs, in straight 5
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lines, nearly north and soutli. The other set, also straight, crosses the former at right angles, that is, running nearly east and west. The principal of these streets, as one goes from the bay westerly, back toward the hills, and, in fact, some distance up their slopes, are Front, Batter}^, Sansome, Mont- gomeiy, Kearny, Dupont, Stockton, Powell, Mason, Taylor, and a dozen others, of which those nearer the bay are gradually growing into importance as business streets, especially along the more level portions of their southern blocks, near where they run into Market street. Beyond these, that is, west of them, the streets are chiefly occupied by dwell- ing houses, among which are many expensive resi- dences of the most modern construction and elegant design.
Between Front street and the bay run two short- er streets, Davis and Drumm, along which, as. well as upon the northern part of Front street, are sev- eral of the principal wharves, piers, docks and steamboat landings.
At right angles with these streets, running back at an acute angle from Market street, and at a right angle with the water front as well as the streets al- ready named, are Gearys Post, Sutter, Bush, Pine, California, Sacramento, Clay, Washington, Jack- son, Pacific, Broadway, with a dozen or more others still further north, and a score or so south.
Along the eastern blocks of these streets, that is, within five or six squares of the water, stand many
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of the leading business houses, hotels, newspaper offices, etc.
A sufficient variety of pavement diversifies the surface of all these streets — from the primitive, original and everlasting cobble, destroyer of quiet, destruction to wheels and death on horses, to the smooth-rolling Nicolson and the beautifully lev^l Stow foundation, blessed bane of all the above abominations, and not a specially bad thing for the contractors. The sidewalks generally have a liberal breadth. They are commonly covered with plank, asphaltum or brick, and, near the cor- ners and in front of the numerous rum-holes, with gangs of bilks or crowds of loafers, who have only, as Sydney Smith once said of a certain vestry in London, to lay their heads together to make a first- class wooden pavement.
South of Market street, that is, in the newer and more rapidly growing portion of the city, the streets were laid out under a new survey, and, of course, have an angle and direction of their own. One set runs parallel with Market, that is, nearly southwest and northeast. Their names, in receding order from Market, are Mission, Howard, Folsom, Har- rison, Bryant, Brannan, etc. These streets are generally wider than those of the older, northern part. Southeast of them are seven or eight paral- lel streets, gradually growing shorter as they come nearer the Mission Bay, ending in South street, less
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than a block and a half long, lying along tlie water front. The lower or eastern ends of nearly all these streets run down to piers and wharves, upon which are the leading lumber and coal yards of the city, the largest hay and grain bams and sheds, and the immense docks of the great Pacific Mail Steamship Company. Nearly two miles back from the water front all these streets "swing around the cu'cle" far enough to bring them into an exactly north and south line, and ci-eej^ southward down the peninsu- la, a block or two farther south every season.
The streets running at right angles with Market street, beginning at the water front and reckoning back southwesterly, are named by their numbers. First, Second, etc., up to Thu'tieth, and even be- yond. Between First street and the present water front, some six or seven blocks have been filled in and are occupied chiefly by gas works, lumber yards and large manufactories. The new streets thus formed are named, in receding order from First street, Fremont, Beale, Main, Spear, Stuart and East. To reduce blocks to miles, one has only to know that in the older part of the city the blocks, reckoning east and west, number twelve to the mile, including the streets between. From north to south they are shorter, numbering sixteen to the mile. South of Market street the blocks are about one seventh of a mile long from east to west, and one ninth of a mile wide. In both the older and newer
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parts of the city, the regular standard blocks are frequently subdivided by one, and sometimes two, smaller streets, running through them each way. Near the city front, the first six blocks, reckoning back from the water, have from one half to two thirds the standard size. Bearing these dimensions in mind, one can readily reduce blocks to miles, and calculate distance and time accordingly.
Approaches to the City.
From only one direction can the traveler ap- proach the city by land; that is, by coming up from the south, through San Jose and the inter- vening places. From every other direction one approaches by water. Between Sacramento and San Francisco there are two princixDal routes by -rail. The first brings the tourist to Yallejo, sixty miles, and thence twenty-three miles by boat, making a total of eighty- three miles, over the shortest and quickest route. Time, four hours and a half, fare, $3.00.
Approaching by this route, he comes down npon the city from the northeast. On the left, the San Pablo, Berkeley, Oakland and Alameda shores, ris- ing gently back into broad plains, whose further edges fringe the feet of the back-lying hills. Be- yond the hills. Mount Diablo. On the larboard bow, as the sailors say, that is, a little southwest, rises Goat Island, or Yerba Buena, three hundred
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and forty feet. This island looks *'veiy like a whale," and in outline seems a Tery monster among leviathans at that.
Dii-ectly south the waters of the bay stretch so far that one can seldom discern the shore line, and may easily fancy himself looking out to sea in that direction. Further round to the right, that is, more westerly, he may catch a glim^Dse of Hunter's Point with the chimney and engine house of the Diy Dock. Nearer lies the Potrero, with the suburban city fast creeping up the sides, and crowning the summit of its rocky promontory. From the beach, at its nearest base, stretch out the piers and rise the grimy buildings of the Pacific Rolling Mills. Still nearer you see the south end of the long bridge, stretching southerly across Mission Bay, and connecting the Potrero with the city. In a line with the further end of this, bridge, and a mile or more nearer, we have the piers and sheds of the Pacific Mail Steamship Company, with the immense ships of theu' China line, the largest wooden vessels afloat. The steejD slope just to the right of them, on which you see the upper stories of a large brick building, is Rincon Hill, and the building is the U. S. Marine Hospital. That monument, as it seems, is the Shot Tower, while in front of, around and beyond it, you see the usual medley of ordinary city build- ings, here and there rising into single or double church spires, broken by the bulk of some big busi-
SAIV FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 109
ness block, and relieved by the regular lines of in- tersecting streets.
Eight of Kincon Hill, where the city fills a broad hollow, you are looking over what was once the *' Happy "Valley " of early times. In a line beyond it lies the Mission, which you cannot now discover, backed by the '' Twin Peaks," and the high hills which form the back-bone of the peninsula. Still following around, the larger buildings of the older city meet the eye, gradually rising up the southern slope. Those singular minarets or mosque-like twin towers or spires, surmount the Jewish Syna- gogue. Here and there a church spire shoots above the roofs, but one sees fewer of them than in eastern cities of equal size, because the possibility of earth- quakes, and the certainty of high winds, restrain architects and builders from attempting anything too lofty or exposed. Several of the finest churches in the city, spread out on the earth much more than they rise toward heaven. One reason may be that they do not own far in the latter direction.
North of the Synagogue towers, the hill still rises through three blocks, when it reaches its full height in California street hill. Then a slight depression in the hill-top outline, followed by another rise in- to the Clay street and "Washington street hill, two blocks north and three blocks west of the former.
The higher hill still further north but nearer the front, is the famous land-mark and signal-station,
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Telegraph Hill, from whose top the long familiar observatoiy has but recently disappeared; pros- trated on a stormy night last winter, by one of the giant winds whose fuiy it had so long defied.
Beyond, or to the right of Telegraph hill, the city falls away to the northwest, and the bay shore also trends in that direction. Black Point, the Presidio, and finally Fort Point, bring us to the Golden Gate.
Unfolding to empire its way, Wide opened by gold and by fate,
Swnng by tides wliicli no nation can stay, Here standeth the continent's gate.
Through the naiTow Gate one has a single glimpse of the grand old sea, which stretches so peacefully away under the sunset. For northern gate-post you have Lime Point; and thence the vision rests on high hills packed in behind, and gi'adually lifting the gaze to Mount Tamalpais, be- yond whose sharply-cut summit, nothing of note attracts the sight. Between us and Tamalpais, four miles nearer and half a mile lower, close at the wa- ter's edge, we have the small but beautifully situ- ated town of Saucelito, with its sheltered picnic grounds and tranquil bay. Beyond the Saucelito bay you can almost see through Raccoon Strait, and discover that the higher land nearer the boat is not a point, but an island. Its name is Angel Island. It is the largest and most valuable island
SAiV FRANCISCO AND VICINITY.
in the bay. The Government owns it and occupies its southwestern side with barracks, garrison and parade grounds. Several batteries dot the shore at diiferent j)oints, and a military road around the island, connects them with the garrison.
This other small island of solid rock, crowned with a heavy fortress and girt with forts and bat- teries, is Alcatraz, the Pacific Gibraltar.
Instead of coming by way of Vallejo, the passen- ger from Sacramento may come by rail through Stockton, forty-eight miles; thence by rail to Oak- land, eighty-six miles; and thence by boat to San Francisco, four miles; making a total distance of one hundred and thirty-eight miles, all rail except the last four. Through fare, $2.50.
By this route you approach the city on the east, and have only to change the point of sight from northeast to east, and remember that Goat Island will be seen close by on the right hand, that is, north of the boat, to make the description of the approach from Vallejo almost equally accurate and easily adaptable for the approach from Oakland, which is the direction from which the great major- ity approach.
Those who may prefer can have their choice of a third way from Sacramento, and a second from Stockton; that is by steamer, usually leaving each of those cities at noon, and due in San Francisco in eight hours. From Sacramento by water the dis-
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tance is one hundred and twenty-five miles, and the fare, $1.50 ; from Stockton, one hundred and twen- ty miles, fare, $1.50 ; dinner on board, $1.00; staterooms, $2.00, single beiihs, $1.00. These boats reach San Francisco so early one seldom needs a stateroom, excej^t in case of illness, or a strong desire for seclusion. Both lines of steamers land at the same pier, at the foot of Broadway, from ten to twelve blocks from the leading first-class ho- tels.
The only important route of apj)roaching San Francisco, and riding into the city by land, lies on the south, coming from Gilroy, San Jose, Santa Clara, Redwood City, and ' intermediate places, in the cars of the Southern Pacific railroad. Coming in by this route, one traverses the fertile plains of the Santa Clara Yalley, and skirts the foot-hills l^^ing along the western base of the almost mountains, which form the divide between the bay slope and the ocean slope of the broad peninsula. Near Red- wood City, and for the succeeding fifteen miles, the track runs between fresh water fields on the west and salt water marsh upon the east. From the Twelve-Mile Farm in, we strike nearer the centre of the constanth^ narrowing peninsula, and near San Miguel catch the first glimpse of the broad Pacific. The large building just west of the track is the Industrial School, our California House of Reformation. The southern suburbs of the city,
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through which we enter, present nothing remarka- ble beyond the usual medley of old shanties, broad vegetable gardens, pleasant, home-like cottages, and here and there the more pretentious suburban residence, increasing in number as we come nearer the centre.
We come in by Valencia street, and reach the station upon Market, just east of its junction with Valencia.
Ocean Approach.
Besides the approaches already mentioned, one may come in from Panama, Mexico, Oregon, the Sandwich Islands, Australia^ Japan or China. From whichever he may come, for the last ten miles be- fore reaching the dock, his track will be the same. A few miles west of Fort Point, all these various ocean routes converge into one, enter San Francis- co Bay by the Golden Grate, and bear away south- ward until they intersect, and for a short distance coincide with, the approach from Vallejo, already briefly described.
Conveyauces.
Hacks. — Approaching the wharf or the railroad station, you encounter the usual jargon of hotel and baggage runners, each shouting his hotel, hack or coach, as if strength of lungs was his chief stock in trade. It is but simple justice to San Francisco hackmen, however, to say that a more obliging.
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prompt, and courteous set, can hardly be found in any American city of equal size. That travelers may exactly understand for themselves the law • regulating hacks and coaches, we quote order No. 718, of the Board of Supervisors of the city and county of San Francisco :
Section 7. ''For a hackney carriage drawn by more than one horse, for one jjerson, not exceeding one mile, $1.50, and for more than one person, not exceeding one mile, $2.50 ; and for each additional mile, for each passenger, 50 cents. For a hackney caniage drawn by one horse, for one person, not exceeding one mile, $1.00 ; for more than one per- son, not exceeding one' mile, $1.50; for each i^as- senger, for each additional mile, 25 cents."
Sec. 8. "From any landing of any steamboat, to any point east of the west line of Larkin street, and north of the south line of Brannan street, and east of Third street, shall, in all cases, be estimated not to exceed one mile. "
In forty-nine cases out of fifty, no newly-arrived gentleman or lady will have any personal need to know the law; the foregoing is written mainly for the fiftieth. Bear in mind that these rates, like all fares and charges in the Golden State, are payable in gold or its equivalent coin; also, that they are the higJiest. Hackmen often carry for less.
Coaches. — Besides the hacks, one may find hotel coaches, which cany free to the hotel for which
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they run, or charge fifty cents for each passenger within the limits above specified.
Cars. — The red carS of the City Front line pass the head of the dock every five minutes. These cany one to the very door of the " Cosmopolitan/' and " Occidental " Hotels, within one block of the "Lick House," and two blocks of the "Grand Hotel." Directly across the street from the pier of the Sacramento and Stockton steamers, half a block from the landing for passengers by rail, and one block from the landing of those coming by Vallejo, the green cars of the Sutter street line' carry one directly by the " Cosmopolitan," the " Lick House," and the " Occidental," and within half a block of the " Grand." On both these lines the rate is ten cents coin for a single fare, or twenty- five cents for a coupon ticket good for four rides.
Wagons. — At or near any landing, one can always find numbered express wagons, waiting to carry baggage for from 50 cents to $1.00, according to bulk, weight, or distance.
Porters. — Black, white and yellow, will serve you for ' ' two bits, " that is 25 cents, for carrying any reasonable package within reasonable distance. It is well, however, to keep your eye on porter and package.
Baggage and Package Expresses. — Half an hour or more before reaching the city, either by car or boat, agents of the above companies will take your
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checks and your money, give you a receipt for both, and deliver your baggage, for 25 cents for each or- dinary-sized trunk or valise, at any place within the single-fare limits already given. These are reliable and responsible companies, whose agents none need fear to trust. They deliver baggage promptly and in as good condition as received.
Hotels.
The foreign tourist can witness to the great lack of really fine hotels abroad. All England hardly furnishes a single hotel to rank v>dth the best of our second-class hotels in America. Outside of Boston, New York, Philadelphia, Chicago, St. Louis, and Cincinnati, few, even of the northern cities, pre- sent any notable hotel attractions to the temporary guest. New Orleans has a single good hotel, but hardly one of the other southern cities has yet out- grown the old-fashioned " tavern."
In respect to these — in good hotels — by the imme- diate and unanimous verdict of ever}" tourist, San Francisco stands preeminent. Nowhere on the con- tinent can the traveler find beds, tables and rooms superior to those of the " Grand," the "Occident- al," the " Cosmopolitan," and the "Lick House." and in no large city of America will he find as reas- onable charges, considering the amount and quality of accommodation and the style of service rendered.
The usual standard rate at the four leading first-
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*■■
class houses, is $3.00 a day, for board and room. At the *' Brooklyn," " Kuss," and "American Ex- change, " the rates are $2.00 to $2.50 a day, for good rooms and equally good board.
The Gkand Hotel. — This magnificent hotel is the newest of all. It stands on the south side of Market street, occupying the whole block from New Mont- gomery to Second street, and stretching southward along new Montgomery, across Stevenson street to Jessie. Its north front is 205 feet, its west front 335 feet, thus covering over one acre and a half of ground. Its height is three stories, surmounted by a Mansard roof, containing a fourth. Its style of architecture may be called the " modern combina- tion," highly ornamented. In method of construc- tion, it is a complete frame building, surrounded by brick walls of unusual thickness. Its four hundred rooms include chambers, parlors and suits of the amplest dimensions and the richest furnishing. The halls, corridors and stairways are spacious and airy. Through all the halls, at intervals of every few feet, hang coils of fire-hose, each attached to full hydrants, and always ready for instant use. Bath-rooms and toilets abound. Barber-shop, bil- liard room, and the most elegantly frescoed bar- room upon the coast, occupy the most convenient portions of the basement and first floor. An amply- supplied reading-room, with most luxurious chairs, juvites and detains all weary guests. Branch offi-
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ces of the leading telegraphs, postal delivery box, and all needed facilities for coiTespondence, are at hand. Hacks stand constantly at the three spa- cious entrances, and four leading lines of horse- cars radiate thence to every portion of the city and suburbs.
The dining-hall accommodates three ^hundred. Its tables are of moderate size, suiTounded by plenty of room, loaded with abundant " substan- tial," flanked with all the latest delicacies, and served in the most attentive manner. Breakfast rooms for private parties, and separate eating-rooms for servants and children, immediately adjoin the main dining-hall. A large and well-appointed laundry i^romptly accommodates guests.
If there's anything else imaginable in the whole list of first-class hotel accommodations, just mention it to your obliging host Johnson, or his courieous and efficient adjutant, Eidgeway, and it shall go hard but they will furnish it for you at once, if it is to be had within the limits of telegraph and ex- press.
The OccmENTAL. — This popular standard house stands upon the east side of Montgomery; its west front occupies the whole block from Bush street to Sutter; stretches its north flank half a block down Bush street, while its south flank goes a hun- dred and sixty-seven feet down Sutter street. Ver- tically it rises six stories into the sunshine. Four
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hundred and twelve elegant single and double rooms, with numerous suits having ample bathing and other accommodations, besides ladies' parlors, dining-halls, billiard-hall, convenient offices, broad stairways, spacious halls, and roomy passages, make up this truly magnificent mammoth establish- ment. The carpets and furniture are of the most elegant and costly description. A large and beauti- fully-fitted patent safety elevator adjoins the grand staircase near the main hall, and reading-room at the Montgomery street entrance.
Near the main entrance is a telegraph-office — hacks stand always in froirt, and four leading lines of horse-cars pass the three entrances. A newspaper and periodical stand, with post-office letter-box, complete the conveniences of the reading-room.
The walls are braced with iron, and securely anchored, besides being connected across the build- ing by heavy iron ties on every stoiy. Manager, Philip McShane.
Cosmopolitan Hotel. — This worthy compeer of the two already described, occupies the southwest corner of Bush and Sansome streets. Cen- trally-located, elegantly-constructed, conveniently- arranged, and well-furnished, this house is one of the largest and newest first-class hotels. An extensive addition, including some scores of single and double rooms, richly furnished in the most modern style, sufficiently indicate its prosj)erity. Tubbs & Pat- ten, managers.
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Lick House. — West side of Monjigomery , between Sutter and ^Post streets. Its east front occupies tlie entire block between these two streets, and runs up between one and two hundred feet of each of them. Whilst this house is excellently^ finished and furnished throughout, it is especially cele- brated for its elegant dining-hall, which is probably more artistically-planned and exquisitely-finished than any public dining-hall in the world. Jno. M. Lawlor & Co., managers.
Brooklyn Hotel. — Next to the elegant hotels already named, one may reckon the "Brooklyn" — on Bush street, north side, between Montgomery and Sansome. This excellent house makes a specialty of accommodating families, having an unusually large number of suits of rooms especially designed for their comfort. Its rates are about two thirds of those before mentioned. Hotel coaches convey all guests to the house free of charge. Messrs. Kelly & Wood, proprietors.
Besides the * 'Brooklyn," the traveler not wishing to stop at any of the grander and dearer houses, may have his choice of the " Russ House," west side of Montgomery, from Sutter to Pine, Messrs. Pear- son & Seymour, proprietors; the '' American Ex- change," Sansome street, west side, corner of Hal- leck, Timothy Sargent, proprietor; the "Morton House," formerly Orleans Hotel, 117 Post street, south side, just above Kearny; and the " Interna-
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY.
tional Hotel," Wejgant & Partridge, 530-534 Jack- son street, north side, just below Kearny.
European Plan. — One fond of this style, may suit himself at Gailhard's Hotel, Nos. 507 and 509 Pine street, Pereira & Co., proprietors. " What Cheer House" — This famous hotel combines the lodging-house and restaurant under one roof, with a success of which no old Californian needs be told. Besides the usual reading-room, it has also an ex- tensive library and museum, free to all guests; R. B. Woodward, proprietor, 525-529 Sacramento street.
Lodging Houses.
Among these we name the " Nucleus" and the " Clarendon" as equal to the best. The " Nucleus" stands on the southeast corner of Third and Mar- ket streets; David Stern, proprietor. The " Claren- don House," John M. Ward, manager, 574 Folsom street, northwest corner of Second, is new and central.
Restaurants.
Whether a man eats to live or lives to eat, he can readily suit himself here. At present rates, the traveler can get better food, greater variety, and more of it for the same money, than in any eastern city. Among the best restaurants, are Saulmann's, 520 California street, north side, be- tween Montgomery and Kearny; Swaiil's Family Bakery and Restaurant, 636 Market, north side,
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between Montgomery and Kearny; Martin's, Com- mercial street; Job's, 327 Kearny; and Lermitte's Coffee Saloon, 530 Merchant street.
Baths.
The hotels usually furnish first-class facilities with- out the trouble of going out from under the roof. Should anyone, however, wish a more extended ap- plication of fresh or salt water, hot or cold, vapor or steam, Turkish, Eussian or Koman, he has come to the very place where they have them even better than in their original countries. If you doubt it, ask Bayard Taylor.
Zeile's Baths, at 527 Pacific street, north side, between Montgomery and Kearny, furnish more natural facilities and improved artificial appliances for the scientific aj^plication of Russian, Turkish, and Roman baths, than any other establishment in Europe or America. The visitor will be surprised at the extent and completeness of eveiy api^oint- ment in Dr. Zeile's establishment.
Places of Amusement.
No matter how busy you may be at home, you are here for enjoyment. When evening comes you want a good lecture, concert or i)lay. We have them all — the first occasionally, the last two reg'u- larl}^ The newest, largest and finest play house is the
1^
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Califoknia Theater, on the north side of Bush street between Kearny and Dupont: John McCul- lough, lessee and manager. If there's a good play in the city, we generally find it here- if there are comfortable chairs and luxurious boxes anywhere, they are certainly here; and if there's an artist of good taste and a successful manager combined in one man, his name is John McCuUough. The the- ater is new and spacious, having comfoi-table seats for over three thousand, one of the largest stages in the United States, with complete mechanical ap- pliances, and finely-j)ainted scenery and drop- curtain.
Metropolitan Theater. — Montgomery street, north side, between Washington and Jackson. Occasion- ally occupied for transient engagements, often pre- senting excellent plays. Has fine acoustic proper- ties; seats two thousand.
Alhambra, 325 Bush street. This is a snug and tasty combination of theater, minstrels and opera house, usually presenting some popular and spicy blending of wit, art and song.
Maguire's Opera House. ^ — Washington street, north side, between Montgomery and Kearny; Thomas Maguire, proprietor. This is the famous old theater in which Forrest, Kean and Booth de- lighted the California audiences of earlier days.
Chinese Theater. — At No. 630 Jackson street the curious visitor may witness the most curious medley
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ever put upon a stage and called a play. An inter- minable and unintelligible jargon of ding-dong, clatter-clattter, tum-tum and rattle-rattle-rattle com- bined with falsetto screeches, wonderful gymnas- tics, graceful contortions, terrific sword combats, and strange old oriental masqueradings, is what you may see in the celestial play house. Half an hour of it will fully satisfy you; but every eastern visitor must needs endure at least so much.
MusEuais — Woodward's. — At Woodward's Gar- dens, Mission street, between Thii'teenth and Four- teenth. This contains over ten thousand si^ecimens of zoology, ornithology, Indian relics, alcoholic col- lections, natural curiosities, ancient coins, etc., be- sides a beautifully arranged and finely lighted art gallery, including several rare old pictures, and a sort of floral museum in the shape of a charming conservatory, wherein fragrance vies with beauty to delight and detain.
Melodeons, Dance Halls, Beer Cellars. — We hardly anticipate that the average tourist will care to be '* guided" into places under this heading, but the philosophic student of human nature, as well as the curious observer of social customs, cannot con- sider his knowledge of any city complete until he has personally seen and actually known, not only the highest, but the lowest, amusements extensively patronized by its people. Like all other large cities, San Francisco has its share of low haunts in which
^
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 125
really modest, and sometimes meritorious, perform- ances blend with a much larger proportion of im- modest, meretricious and disgraceful ones.
HaUs.
Platt's Hall. — 216 Montgomery, east side, just north of Bush street, is one of the most popular in the city. Popular concerts, literary lectures, reli- gious anniversaries, educational celebrations, magi- cal entertainments, military balls and social dances, succeed each other so rapidly that there are few nights, especially in the pleasure season, when Piatt's Hall does not offer something worth going to see. Henry B. Piatt, proprietor.
Union Hall. — South side of Howard, near Third. This is the largest permanent hall in the city, and a grand place for unusually large social parties, ex- hibitions, political conventions and popular mass meetings. It easily accommodates upwards of three thousand.
Pacific Hall. — In the California Theater build- ing, north side of Bush, just above Kearny. This is a centrally-located, tastefully-finished double hall, that is, two connected so as to be used singly or jointly according to need. Capacity, fifteen hundred.
Mercantile Library Hall. — In the baseitient of the Mercantile Library Association Building, north side of Bush street, between Montgomery and San-
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some. Elegantly finished in pure white, with paneled and ornamented walls and ceilings. Ac- commodates eight hundred. The closeness of the neighboring buildings gives it a bad light by day, but no hall in the city lights up more brilliantly at night.
Mechanics' Institute Hall. — Upon the lower floor of the building of that association, south side of Post street, between Montgomeiy and Kearny. This is another newly-constructed, conveniently- planned, well-furnished and centrally-located hall, with a medium capacity of about six hundred.
Y. M. C. A. Hall. — Young Men's Christian Asso- ciation building, north side of Sutter, just west of Kearny. A remarkably neat, well-proportioned, lofty and well-ventilated hall, having its capacity largely increased by a conveniently-sloping gallery stretching across the whole of one side, and throw- ing forward its flanks at either end. Capacity, six hundred and fifty.
Dashaway Hall. — Dashaway Society's building, south side of Post, between Kearny and Dupont. This singular name* belongs to the pioneer temper- ance organization of the Pacific coa^t. Its origin can hardly be better stated than .in the brief sen- tences of Tuthill, in his History of California: " A company of firemen, Howard No. 3, sitting in their engine house late at night, January 1st, 1859, cele- brating New Year's after the custom of the country.
SAJV FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 127
fell to musing over tlieir future prospects, and were vouchsafed a vision of tlieir probable fate. At last they solemnly agreed to discontinue the use of in- toxicating liquor, or, as they phrased it, to ' ' da^h away the cup." They accordingly organized a tem- perance society of " Dashaways," with Frank E. E. Whitney, chief engineer of the fire department of San Francisco, as their first President, pledging themselves to drink nothing intoxicating for five and one half months. They kept their promise, and liked it so well that, before reaching the limit of their self-imposed pledge, they renewed it for all time." Thus began the first temperance society of California, which has enrolled thousands of names, erected a fine building, founded a large library, and maintains weekly lectures to this day. In a country where wine is fast becoming a chief production, and whose greatest present danger is the social glass, the origin, efforts and success of the pioneer temperance organization merit more than passing notice.
Billiards. — Tournaments and champions of this king of in-door games compel brief mention of this popular amusement and the j)laces where one may best enjoy it. Every leading hotel has a fine bil- liard room attached ; those of the four first named are palatial in the elegance and richness of their finish and furniture.
Bowling Saloons and Shooting Galleries. — We 6
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set these togetlier, not because of am^ particular affinity between the two, but because the city has hardly enough of either to make an item of one alone. At the southwest comer of Montgomery and Pine, the enthusiastic bowler may probably find as many pins as he can prostrate, with attend- ants who can set them up as fast as he can knock them down ; while at 913 Keamy street, he can keep up his practice, if ali'eady an expert, or "get his hand in," if a novice, at
" Shooting folly as she flies." Those wishing the longer range for rifle practice, find it at Heiinann's, near the Presidio, that is, on one's way to Fort Point.
Gymnasiums.
Although nominally a christian land, California has yet many sturdy "musclemen" within her bor- ders, while her larger cities have several schools of various kinds, for the training of young disciples in " muscular Christianity.
Chief among these in San Francisco, stands the Olympic Club, the largest physical culture club in the State. Founded in 1860, duiing its eleven years of ceaseless and increasing activity, over five thousand persons have availed themselves of its ad- mii'able facilities for acquiring or perfecting one's ability to "travel on his muscle." It is by no means an association of boys, or of young men
-£^'
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 129
only ; some of the best known gray-beard pioneers, with many of the leading merchants and profession- al men, have enthusiastically enjoyed their daily " play-spell" within its walls for many years, and they do it still. At 35 Sutter street, south side, just below Montgomery, one may find their spa- cious and lofty hall, amj)ly supplied with all the paraphernalia of modern gymnastics, and adorned with several large paintings in oil, by prominent artists who are also Olympics, besides the photo- graphs of 23ast and present leading members.
The San Francisco Turn-verein have their hall and rooms on the north side of OTarrell, between Mason and Taylor. Organized in 1852, it is the oldest association in the State, owns its premises, and has an actual present membership of nearly six hundred. It is, of course, conducted ujpon the German plan.
Y. M. C, A. — Those who want a roll at the pins upon strictly orthodox principles, or to punch each other's heads under the sanction of Christianity, can escape, or at least modif}^, the censure of their uncharitable spiritual superiors, by resorting to the very neat and comfortable gymnasium in the base- ment of the Young Men's Christian Association Building, already described. This has the great advantage and the unquestionable attraction of providing for ladies also. It has all the necessary conveniences of bath-rooms and dressing-rooms at- tached.
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Skating Einks. — Mercury, the fleet messenger of the gods, is fabled to have had wings upon his feet. Forbidden by gravity to emulate him, our modern skaters fasten wheels to their feet, and make up for their inability to fly by developing theii' power to skate. The immense floor of the Mechanics' Insti- tute Mammoth Pavilion, on the west side of Stock- ton, between Post and Geary, affords the largest and smoothest rink to be found in the union. Two or three others exist in the city, besides the very large and fine new one in the j)aviHon at Wood- ward's Gardens.
Base-Ball and Cricket Grounds. — At the south- east corner of Folsom and Twenty-fifth streets, an entire block, inclosed by a high fence, leveled to the necessaiy smoothness and overlooked by sev- eral hundred well-sheltered spectators' seats, fur- nishes fine accommodations for match games of base-ball and cricket. Here the famous Red Stockings, of Cincinnati, won fi-esh laurels, and the officers and crew of H. B. M. ship Zealous, played the crack cricket clubs of the State.
Parks and Gardens.
woodward's gardens Are on the west side of Mission street, between Thirteenth and Fourteenth. This famous resort is both park and garden, and much more besides. Its fences inclose nearly six acres, but its actual surface
. SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 131
considerably surpasses tliat area, from the fact that the hill-slopes and terraces, with the various floors and galleries of the different buildings really double or even treble the original sui'face beneath, so that, if sxDreadupon one level, they would cover thousands of square feet more. They thus rival any public square in size and far surpass it in variety and beauty.
We reach them, by the red cars of the City Kail- road Company, leaving the west front of the Grand Hotel, at the junction of New Montgomery Avenue and Market street, every five minutes — fare five cents. Or we may go out by either the Market street, Howard street, or Folsom street cars. The first of these carry us within a little over a block of the entrance — fare, five cents; the second within a block, and the third within two blocks. Fare on the last two, ten cents for a single ride, or four tickets for a quarter. On sunny days and holiday afternoons the City Railroad runs large, open-sided excursion or picnic cars, newly constructed ex- pressly to be run to and from the Gardens. The entrance is upon the west side of Mission, be- tween Thirteenth and Fourteenth, through an elegant architectural gatewaj^, or sort of fagade, surmounted by four colossal statues, or carved figures. The two central figures resemble a com- bination of Minerva and the Goddess of Liberty; one might not go far wrong in letting them stand for
132 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
California and Oregon. The one upon either flank is a notably well-caiTed giizzly; larger than life and twice as natural, sitting erect upon his haunches, supporting a flag-staff with his fore paws, and with mouth slightly opened in an amiable grin of undis- guised pleasure at the prominence of his elevated position, and of welcome to the visiting thousands who constantly deposit their quarters and dimes beneath his sentinel post.
Arrived within we seem to have suddenly left the windy city and dusty streets far behind. Grassy lawns siuTOund beautiful gardens. Eveiy variety of flowerj' vine and blossoming shrub alternates with rare trees interspersed here and there with artificial clumps of imported trees, or stretching along the border of the original grove native to the spo t , while gi'avel walks wind among the whole . Im- mediately upon the right of the entrance, in the gate-keeper's building, is a libraiy of nearly two thousand standard volumes, many of them rare and costly. Directly in front of the gateway, stands the
MUSEUM,
formerly Mr. "Woodward's private residence — at present occupied by a miscellaneous museum of natural and artificial wonders, beasts, birds, fishes and shells, with an occasional freak of nature in the shape of a mammoth or a dwarf, or a still more startling preservation of some double-headed
SAAT FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 133
or six-legged specimens. The zoologist or ornithol- ogist would scarcely get beyond this building the first day. Left of the Museum stands the
CONSERVATORY.
This is the principal one pf five fiower and plant houses, having an aggregate length of three hun- dred feet by one tenth that width. This is a really elegant crystal palace in miniature, filled with the beauty and fragrance of the rarest exotics. Through this one may pass directly to the
ART GALLERY.
The vestibule or ante-room of the Art Gallery is in fact another museum, containing two statues, an extensive collection of birds and bird's eggs; up- wards of a thousand coins of all ages and nations, curious idols and weapons, with hundreds of other curiosities helpfully classified, and the whole en- closed in an ante-room elegantly proportioned and beautifully frescoed by Poldeman, in imitation of Pompeii. Thence we enter the Art Gallery proper, lighted from above — frescoed by the same artist — decorated, in the corners, with allegorical represen- tations of Painting, Sculpture, Music and Architect- ure— while over the door hang the two celebrated bas-reliefs, "Night" and "Morning," by Thor- waldsen. Niches on each side contain busts of Schiller, Goethe, Tasso and Petrarch, Over sixty rare old paintings or faithful copies cover the walls.
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Raphael and Salvator Rosa appear in beautiful copies; several gems from the best Dutch masters furnish a transition to the modem school, of which one or two pictures from Bierstadt, and two or three views of California scenery by Virgil Wil- liams, stand as pleasing tyj)es.
Leaving the Art Gallery, by another exit, we stand upon the margin of a lovely little lake, around whose centre revolves the great attraction for the young folks, and no small novelty to most adult visitors, the famous
ROTAEY BOAT.
This endless craft is a huge circular vessel, rigged with fore and aft sails, and seating a hundred peo- ple, who step in from the concave landing upon one side as the radial seats successively come uj). It would puzzle the *' cutest" old salt to find bow or stern to this curious craft; the shrewdest country- men have to confess that they " can't make head nor tail out of tlie thing," while the enjoyment which the youngsters find in it, hke the boat itself, never comes to an end.
Between the lake and the conservatory, an out- door
GYMNASIUM,
with ladders, bars, rings, swings and climbing- poles, accommodates all who may wish to recreate the body. From the lake flows a little stream,
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITV.
along whose banks the pelican, the crane, the alba- tross, the wild goose and the common gull, pom- pously stalk or awkwardly waddle; while in its water, two or three beavers, a pair of minks and a seal or two, make their homes. Beyond this, the
HENNERY,
in which the admirer of fine poultry may see a large variety of the choicest stock. An ad;joining in- closure presents a pair of ostriches, and another has two or three beautiful deer and fawn. Near the southwest corner of the garden, the
TUNNEL
carries the visitor through a heavily-timbered, se- curely planked, cleanly-kept and well-lighted pas- sage under Fourteenth street, into the
ZOOLOGICAL GROUNDS
and the amphitheater. Here, ranged along the north side, backed by a high and tight fence, and fronting the south that they may have the warmest possible exposure, are the animals of the menagerie. Royal Bengal Tigers, Rocky Mountain Grizzlies, Mexican Panthers, and South American Jaguars, Australian Kangaroos, and a curious medley of dissimilar animals known as the "Happy Family," make up the caged collection. The cages are roomy, airy, cleanly and secure. The animals are remarkably fine specimens, kept in capital condi-
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tion, and the keeper is intelligent and courteous. Bej'ond the great cages is another range of small- er ones, containing black and cinnamon bears, fox- es, badgers, raccoons, opossums, and mischievous monkeys of all sizes. Esquimaux dogs, Siberian reindeer and European elk, with many other ani- mals, more than we have space even to catalogue, make up a collection of animated nature sufficient to stock haif a dozen ordinaiy traveling shows, and still leave enough on hand to surpass any of them. Besides these, spacious inclosures allow Arabian and Bactrian camels a free promenade, while still beyond, another yard is tenanted by the shaggiest, sleepiest-looking, most patient and good-natured donkeys that ever allowed a gang of roistering youngsters to pack themselves upon their backs, only to be incontinently and ignominously pitched over their heads into a promiscuous pile of dust- covered and disgusted juvenile humanity. At the extreme end of the Zoological Grounds the inclos- ure on the right contains a genuine Rocky Mountain Buffalo, while in the larger one upon the left, two or three reindeer contentedly browse.
AMPHITHEATER .
In the center of the zoological grounds, a large race-course, securely inclosed between inner and outer circular fences, affords free scope for Roman Chariot races, hurdle races, foot races, and eques-
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 137
trian performances generally. Within the inner fence, a level circle of some eighty feet diameter, ac- commodates acrobatic performers ; while a lofty pole, rising from its center, furnishes ambitious young- sters all needed facilities for flying swings or skillful " shinning/' Around this stadium are raised seats for three thousand, with a covered portion shelter- ing six hundred, not to mention standing room for ten thousand more.
Keturning through the tunnel we turn to the left, ascend the hill and enter the
PAVILION.
This is the largest and strongest permanent wooden building upon the coast. It has the form of a parallelogram with the corners unequally cut off, thus giving its ground outline the shape of an irregular octagon. It is one hundred and fifty feet long, by one hundred and thirty wide and fifty high, surmounted by a water-tight roof, nearly an acre and a half in extent. Half a dozen broad en- trances admit us to the spacious interior. Here we have a central floor; one hundred and ten feet long by ninety feet wide, as solidly laid, perfectly fitted and smoothly planed as art could make it, and furnishing the finest
SKATING KINK
imaginable, or the most capacious ball-room floor to be desired. Around this floor, a sort of dress-
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circle, fitted with easy seats, separated by broad aisles and roomy spaces, rises gradually back to tbe surrounding wall. This dress-circle accommodates three thousand spectators. Above it is a broad gallery of equal size, similarly fitted and holding as many. The gallery windows command a fine yiew of the underlying gardens, the meandering walks, the lake, the conservatories, shrubbeiy andthejnuse- um ; of the zoological grounds and amphitheater further away, and of the southwestern suburbs, bounded by the Mission hills, beyond. This pa- vilion has a seating capacity of six thousand, while for any brief mass-meeting, four thousand more could easily stand in the nine thousand nine hun- dred square feet of space upon the floor. A com- modious and conveniently located music, or speak- er's stand, with broad staii'ways between dress-cii'cle and gallery, complete the appointments of this mammoth building, whose workman-like finish and enormous strength, fully equal its huge size and immense capacity. Just west of the pavilion stands a pictirresque little
^ TURKISH MOSQUE,
whose exterior faithfullj- reproduces the oriental original. Its interior is tastefully frescoed, while its domed ceiling presents an astronomical fresco, representing the stany heavens. Near the south- east corner of the pavilion is the
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 139
RESTAUEANT,
SO that one need not leave the grounds, should he find occasion to fill his stomach before he has suf- ficiently feasted his eyes. Between the restaurant and the mosque, occuj)ying the highest point of the hill, stands ^
THE OBSERVATORY,
formed by a secure railing and comfortable seats inclosing and surrounding the circular top of a huge reservoir, or tank. Until the recent erection of the pavilion, this was the best point of view from which to study the plan of the grounds and enjoy their scenery; and even now, it well rewards ascent, especially for those who hardly care to climb into the pavilion gallery.
In various snug places among and under the trees, and, in some places, surrounding their trunks, are scattered scores of ^
LUNCH TABLES,
as a sort of out-post or picket-guard thrown out by the restaurant proper. All about the top of the pavilion hill, -and for some distance down its sides, these tables, of all shapes and sizes, round, ring- shaped, triangular, octagonal, square, and "par- allelogramical," and suiTOunded by an abundance of comfortable seats, occupy the most romantic sit- uations. Descending the hill-slope by a winding path, we pass a broad lawn upon the left, on which
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the enterprising proprietor proposes the early erec- tion of a large, conveniently-arranged fire-proof museum, for the better security of his valuable collections and cabinets.
We have now completed the general tour of this elegant park, with its delightful combination of the beautiful in nature and the wonderful in art, with the rarest curiosities of both. As a broad and airy- holiday play-ground for tired pupils, as a romantic retreat for family picnics, as a pleasure-park for the quiet promenades of old and young, as a varied field of study for the natiu^alist, as one of the lungs through which the tired and dusty city may draw a cool, refreshing, healthful breath, and, finally, as a grand union of park, garden, conservatory, muse- um, gymnasium, zoological grounds and art gal- lery, no eastern city offers the equal of Woodward's Gardens.
City Gardens.
On the south side of Twelfth street, stretching from Folsom to Harrison, and running half a block south. Entrance on the corner of Folsom and Twelfth. Reached most directly by the Fol- som street cars. Admission, 25 cts.
Menageries.
The finest in the city is that already described in the zoological department of Woodward's Gardens.
SAiV FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 141
The only other is a small collection of bears, monkeys and birds at North Beach.
Squares and Parks.
The oldest and best finished public square is Portsmouth Square, commonly called the Plaza, on the west side of Kearny street, extending from Clay street to Washington street, and directly front- ing the old City Hall. Besides these are Washing- ton, Union, Columbia, Lobos, Alcatraz, Lafayette, Jefferson, Alta, Hamilton and Alamo Squares, with Yerba Buena, Buena Yista and Golden Gate Parks. The last named covers nearly 1,200 acres, (of sand at present.) Of these, the Plaza and Washington Square are the principal ones which have been suf- ficiently improved to merit even passing notice. To these one may add South Park, a small but elegant private inclosure occupying the centre of the block between Bryant and Brannan streets.
Promenades.
Montgomery Street. — This is the San Francisco Broadway. Flanked on either side by many of the largest and finest retail business houses, as well as two of the leading hotels. During the fore- noon business monopolizes it almost exclusively; afternoons fashion claims its sidewalks, and well- nigh crowds business, not exactly to the wall, but rather upon the curbstone, if not fairly into the
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gutter. From three to five p. m. the tide of mam- mon begins to ebb, and that of fashion swells in at full flood. Fair women and frail, beauty and ugliness — calicoes, silks, satins, velvets, broad- cloths, beavers and cashmere, make up the motley- throng, swaying and trailing up and down the crowded thoroughfare. The faces are ver}" fair, ' ' as far as we can see," and the forms equally graceful, with the same limitation.
Masculine faces, broad-browed, clear-ey^, bronze- cheeked, firm-mouthed or full-bearded, impress one with the dash, the drive and the nerve which have spanned the continent with rails and bridged the Pacific with ships, ere yet the flush of full manhood has fairly settled upon them. Too many, it is true, show the full, uncertain lip, the flushed cheek and dewy eye that tell of excessive stimulus too fre- quently applied. Nowhere on earth is the tempta- tion to drink stronger than here. Business is sharp, competition brisk, and the climate the most stimulating anywhere to be found. So they drive till natui'e falters or weakens and calls for rest. But rest they cannot or will not afford ; the stimu- lus is quicker y it is everywhere close at hand — it seems to save time. Business men die suddenly ; on the street to-day, at Laurel Hill to-morrow; heart disease, apoplexy, congestion of the lungs, or liver complaint, are among fhe causes most fre- quently assigned to the inquiring public. The
SAN FRAA CISCO AND VICINITY. 143
causes of these causes, few stop to ask, or dare to- tell.
Kearny Street. — Parallel witli Montgomery and but a single block above, that is, west of it, runs the rival, if not already the equal, business and pleasure avenue, Kearny street. Though some sin- gle buildings on Montgomery may be finer, the av- erage of the business blocks along Kearjiy street already equals, if it does not surpass that of its rival. Tlie street itself is broader, the sidewalks wider, while the press of vehicles and the throngs of fashion are fully equal.
California Street. — At right angles with both these streets, and intersecting them near their cen- tre, California street, the "Wall street of San Fran- cisco, runs straight down from one of the highest summits within the city limits, to within two blocks of the water front, and there debouches into Mar- ket. Its upper portion lies between elegant private residences ; half way down the slope stand two of the leading city churches ; below, the Alia office, and leading telegraj)h offices ; thence from Mont- gomery down, the finest number of business blocks the city presents. On this street below Montgom- ery, the Bank of California, the Merchants' Ex- change, the Pacific Insurance Company's Building, Hayward's, Duncan's, and Wormser's, with other blocks and building^, present a continuous front of architectural beauty rarely equaled.
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]VL\EKET Street. — This broad, dividing avenue which separates the older city from the nev^er, offers a rare architectui'al medley to the exploring tourist's eye. Some of the grandest business blocks on the Pacific slope tower up between or stand squarely opposite the frailest wooden shells that yet sunive the " early days." Kunning up from the water, one encounters such noble blocks as Treadwell's, not lofty but broad, deep and strong. Harpending's whole-block front. Tlfe Grand Hotel and Nucleus foretell the size and style of the blocks which are yet to form continuous fronts along this main artery of trade.
Second, Thiei) and Fourth Streets. — South of Market, these streets come nearer to fashionable streets than any others; especially along the blocks nearer to Market. They present several single buildings of notable size and style.
The Best Temee. — For any walk or drive within the city limits, or on the entire San Francisco peninstdar, the most comfortable hours of all the day, during the season in which the tourists com- monly visit us, that is from May to September, are, unquestionably, the morning hours; the earlier the better. If you would see men and women go later; take the afternoon, face the wind and the dust, be lifted bodily off your feet, round "Cape Horn," as they call the southe'ast corner of Market and Third streets, until you have quite enough of
SAJV FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 145
that "free-soil" which may be a very fine thing in politics, but is, a " beastly disagreeable thing," as our English friends might say, on a promenade.
Drives.
The Cliff House Eoad. — Stretches rfsvesterly from the city limits, now the west end of Bush street, to the Pacific Ocean beach — originally a mere trail over shifting sand hills. It has become the broad- est, hardest, smoothest and longest track in the State. If you want an idea o'f California horse- flesh, and San Francisco turnouts, trot out this way almost any day. The track has a fine, hard surface wide enough, in places, for twenty teams abreast, and is often nearly filled from side to side with smooth-rolling or friendly racing teams, from the natty single buggy to the elegant coach, or the stately four-in-hand. A million dollars' worth of legs and wheels flash by a man in a very few hours on this fashionable drive, especially on a race-day. Along this road are one or two waj^side inns, which, like the majority of California inns, are chiefly drinking-houses under another name. At the end stands the Cliff House, so named from its site, the solid top of a precipitous rocky bluff or cliff, overlooking ihe Seal Rocks, a few hun- dred feet west; then a thirty-mile horizon of the Pacific Ocean, broken only by the sharp rocky points of the Farallones low down under the
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western sky, visible only when fogs and mists and haze are wanting. Attached to the house are long ► horse sheds which shut off the wind from 3- our horse while his driver goes in to interview Fouler, mine host of the Cliff. South of the Cliff the road goes down k) and out upon the Ocean House, which differs little from the popular eastern beach drives, except that it is not as wide even at the lowest of the tide, and that the ocean view thence is far more seldom diversified with sails. The beach and surf are good, however, and a brisk drive of two or three miles upon it, seldom fails to put the oxygen into the lungs — the iodine into the blood, and the exhilaration into the S]3irits. Some two or three miles south of the Cliff House, the road bends east, leaves the beach and starts back to the city by another way, known as the
Ocean House Road, named, like the other, from the house standing near its seaward end. Ap- proaching the city by this route, one reaches a greater height than by the Cliff House road, and when about two miles from the city, enjoys a beauti- ful view of the southern and western city, the ship- ping, the bay, the opposite shore, the trailing cities and towns, whose houses gleam between the trees of Contra Costa and Alamedar counties, with their grassy foot-hills, the whole view backed and bound- ed by old Mt. Diablo beyond^. Returning by this road, one enters the city suburbs upon the south-
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 147
west by Seventeenth, or Corbett street, passes di- rectly by the Mission with the famous old church which named it, and pursues his way back to the centre by Market, Mission, Howard or Folsom streets. Between the Cliff House and Ocean House roads, and nearer the latter, private enterprise has recently constructed a thii'd track, known as the Central Ocean Drive.
Bay Yiew Road. — Drive from Market street along Third to the Long Bridge, cross that to the Potrero, keep straight on through the deep cut, over the Islais bridge, thence through South San Francisco, up a little rise, from whose summit you look down into a little valley or green bay of vegetable gar- dens, between which and the water stands the Bay View House, on one side of the Bay Yiew race track. From several points as you drive out, you will readily understand why they used the phrase "Bay Yiew" so frequently in naming localities hereabout. If you wish to return by another way, drive half a mile beyond the track, where your way runs into the older road of early times. If you have time, drive on to the brow of the hill and look down into Yisitacion Yalley; if not, at the acute angle where the roads become one, you turn sharply back, and after two miles of -slightly uneven road, enter the city between the eastern edge bf the Mis- sion flats and the western foot of the Potrero hills.
The best time for all these drives, as already said
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concerning tlie promenades, is morning, the earlier the better. Besides the greater purity and fresh- ness of the air, everywhere accompanying the morn- ing hours, one then escapes the wind and dust which, on nearly every afternoon, constitute the chief drawback from the full enjoyment of outdoor pleasure during those hours.
Librariea
In these windy and dusty afternoons, when na- ture seems to frown, art and literature invite you within, and proffer quiet retreats with the best of company — good books. For a city as young and as distinctively absorbed in business, San Francisco has amply provided for the gratification of scien- tific research or literary taste. The chief libraries are the Mercantile, the Mechanics' Institute, the Odd Fellows', the Pioneers', and the Y. M. C. A., each of which is located in the building of the same name, presently to be noticed. Besides these, at the AYhat Cheer House, and at Woodward's Gar- dens, one finds two or three thousand well selected standard volumes, free to guests and visitors.
Public Buildings.
FEDERAL.
Post-Office. — The first of these to every toiuist is, naturally, the Government building thi'ough which his letters come and go. This is a mode-
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 149
rately-sized two-story building of stuccoed brick, running parallel Tvith the west side of Battery street, between Washington and Jackson, One may enter from any street of the three. The ladies' entrance, which is also common, is from Washington street. The principal business entrance is on the west front of the building, through a cross street entered at either end from Washington or Jackson. The office opens daily at 8 a. m., and closes at 6:30 p.m., except Sundays, when its only open hour is from 9 to 10 A.M. The great overland mail for New York, by the way of Salt Lake and Omaha, closes every week day at 7:30 a. m., and on Saturdays at 3 p. M. N. B. Stone, P. M.
The Custom House is simply the upper floor of the Post-office building. Entrance on Battery, near W^ashington. Timothy G. Phelps, Collector.
U. S. Bkanch Mint. — The old building still occu- pied, and likely to be for at least a year, stands on the north side of Commercial, near Montgomery. Office hours from 9 a. m. to 2 p. m. Visitors re- ceived daily from 9 to 12. O. H. La Grange, Su- perintendent.
The New Mint, or what is to be that building, stands on the northwest corner of Fifth and Mission streets. Its ground dimensions are 221J feet on Fifth, by 166J feet on Mission street. The base- ment is already built of California granite. Above the basement, which is 13| feet high, the walls are
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built of blue-gray freestone, from Newcastle Island in tbe Gulf of Georgia, between Vancouver's Island and the mainland of Britisb Columbia. Thus, Un- cle Sam is building his new Mint of Biitish stone. Two stories of 18J feet each will surmount the high basement. The lower of these is now nearly completed. From the pavement to the crown of the roof will be 70 feet. Two chimneys will tower to the height of 150 feet.
The U. S. Maeine Hospital stands at the north- east corner of Harrison and Main streets, upon the northeast slope of Rincon Hill. This is the old building. The hosi)ital also occupies the former buildings of the Deaf and Dumb Asylum, on the southeast corner of Mission and Fifteenth streets.
CITY AND C0U^'TY BUILDINGS.
Old City Hall. — This famous old brick and stucco, two-story, earthquake-cracked, and iron- braced structure, with the adjoining Hall of Records, stretches along the east side of Kearny street from Merchant to Washington, and extends nearl}^ a third of the block down each of those streets. The police-offices and lock-ups occupy the basement, while the usual District Court rooms, with Judges' Chambers* and municipal offices. Su- pervisors' and Board of Education rooms, fill the upper floors, and clamor for more room.
The New Crrv Hall thus far exists only on
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 151
paper. Tlie Commissioners have chosen an elabo- rate plan for a costly edifice, wliicli will far surpass anything on the coast in architectural beauty; but the execution of that plan has hardly yet completed the excavation for the foundation walls. Hence it is yet too early to tantalize the tourist with descrip- tions of a beautiful building not yet visible, except in the architect's drawing, or the lithographic copies. If any tourist is curious to see the ^ite^ he may find it by going out Market street till he reaches what was known as Yerba Buena Park, corner of Market and Seventh streets. The City Hall Commissioners adopted the plans and sj)ecifications of Mr. Augus- tus Laver, of New York, and elected him architect; but, at the present rate of progress, it is hardly probable that less than two or three years will witness the completion of the urgently-needed and magnificently-designed new City Hall.
Jail. — On the north side of Broadway, between Dupont and Kearny, one desirous of inspecting our penal institutions may find ample opportunity to study the physiognomy of that class which inhab- its them, and learn the crimes which preponderate in the Pacific metropolis. Sheriff, P. J. White.
Almshouse. — This asylum occupies one of the healthiest locations in the State, near the Ocean House, or San Miguel road, about four and one quarter miles southwest of the City Hall. M. J. Keating, Superintendent. 7
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Industrial School. — This finely-consti-ucted, con- veniently-aiTanged and well-managed reform school, stands on the western slope of the peninsula hills, about seven miles southwest of the city. Like the Almshouse it has as healthful a location as can be found in the State. It receives only boys, who are regularly taught by competent teachers, and em- IDloyed in various indoor occupations or out-door work. Present number of inmates, two hundred and twelve. The order and discipHne of this school well repay a visit. Jno. C. Pelton, Superintendent.
ExGEs'E Houses. — In early days, before the estab- lishment of homes, the pioneer firemen seemed to love theii* machine veiy much as the sailor loves his ship. They built elegant and costly engine houses, which became to many of them the only homes they ever knew. Since the introduction of the improved steam fire engines, and the organization of the paid fire department, the glory of the old volunteer or- ganizations has well nigh departed. But their houses yet remain, some of them converted to other uses, while others still retain much of their earlier attractiveness.
Eight first-class steamers, of the Amoskeag make, weighing from three to four tons each, throwing four hundred gallons a minute, each costing from four to five thousand dollars in gold coin, and manned by twelve men, make up the present i^aid fire department. At a public trial a week since,
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 153
New York and Philadelphia witnesses voluntarily and unanimously testified that they had never seeii machines reach the spot as soon and get a stream upon the flames as quickly, as did the machines of our fire department. This fact may conduce to the sense of security with which the eastern tourist lies down to sleep in his strange bed. For the benefit of any extra nervous gentleman, we may add the universal rule of conduct in regard to midnight alarms of fire among us, is this : When waked by a fire-alarm, place your hand against the nearest wall. If it feels cold, lie still ; if moderately warm, order a different room at once ; if positively hot, leave for another hotel immediately.
CORPORATION AND SOCIETY BUILDINGS.
The Pioneer's Building. — A finely proportioned building- on the corner of Gold and Montgomery streets, above Jackson. This building is not as note- worthy as the society which built and chiefly oc- cupies it. The famous " Society of California Pioneers" was formed in August, 1850. Its con- stitution declares its object to be:
"To cultivate the social virtues of its members ;
" To collect and preserve information connected with the early settlement of the country; and
"To perpetuate the memory of those whose sagacity, energy and love of independence induced them to settle in the wilderness and become the germs of a new State."
154 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
It includes three classes: 1st. Native Cali- fornians; foreigners living in California before the American conquest; and citizens of the United States who became actual residents here before January 1st, 1849 — with the male descendants of these.
2d. Citizens of the United States who became actual residents of California before Januaiy 1st, 1850, and their male descendants. .
3d. Honoraiy members admitted according to the by-laws. The society has enrolled over 1,300 members. Its historical library and museum well repay a visit. Charles D. Carter, President.
Merchant's Exchange. — This building, the com- mercial headquarters of the mercantile aiTQy of the Pacific, stands on the south side of California street, between Montgomeiy and Sansome. It ranks among the largest and finest architectural orna- ments of the city.
Bank of C-\lifoex[a. — Northwest corner of Cali- fornia and Sansome. This elegant stone stnicture is not remarkable for size; but for broad and deep foundations, slow and strong consti-uction, harmo- nious proportions, convenient aiTangements and admirable finish mthin and without, it ranks among the finest and most costly business build- ings in the Union. President, D. O. Mills. Cashier, William C. Ealston.
Mercantile Libkart Buildino. — North side of Bush
SAJV FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 155
street, between Montgomery and Sansome, This is the building for which the great lottery paid. It presents a noble front, a finely finished interior, with library room containing over 30,000 volumes, reading room, magazine room, reference room, chess room, with a large ladies' room of remarkably costly and tasteful furnishing. The hall in the basement, has already been noticed. Ogden Hoff-. man. President; Alfred Stebbins, Librarian.
Mechanics' Institute Building. — South side of Post street, just below Kearny. A well-propor- tioned, substantially built, sensible-looking build- ing, and so far truthfully indicative of the health- ful prosperity of the excellent organization which owns and occupies it. A library of nearly 20,000 volumes, including many rare and costly scientific works, a large and well-stocked reading room, a sort of museum, including mineralogical cabinets, mechanical models, scientific apparatus and works of art, with a popular business college, occupy this valuable building. The commodious hall upon the lower floor, has been previously described.
Mechanics' Pavilion. — Union Square, between Geary and Post streets on the south and north, and Stockton and Powell streets on the east and west. One of the largest, if not the largest, wooden buildings now standing in America, covering two and one half acres of ground; originally erected by the Mechanics' Institute Association, for the
156 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
accommodation of their biennial fail's, and found almost indisjDensably convenient for all grander gatherings; it has since been retained, and success- ively occupied by fairs, grand masquerade balls, velocipede schools and skating rinks. The most notable event occurring under its mammoth roof was the Grand Musical Festival or Gift Concert, in aid of the Mercantile Libraiy Association, given under the lead of Madame Camilla Urso. After the approaching Mechanics' Fair, to be held this summer, the building is to be removed.
Masonic Temple. — Upon the west side of Mont- gomery, at the comer of Post; of peculiar and at- tractive architecture, imposing proportions and elegant finish, it justly ranks among the most prominent buildings of the city.
Odd Fellows' Hall. — Montgomery street, be- tween Pine and California. Not particularly im- posing from without, but attractive from the unity, strength and benificence of the Order which it represents. Within are a libraiy of nearly 20,000 standard and j)opular volumes, a well-supplied reading-room, and a well-managed savings' bank.
Y. M. C. A. — This quartette of initials has now become so well known throughout the larger cities of the Union, that the visitor in any large city is dis- appointed if he does not find the local habitation of this fast-sj)reading bond of unity among all good men. Here, upon Sutter street, just above Kearny,
SA.V FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 157
he will be agreeabl}^ disappointed to discover a large, new, stone-front building, unique in design, and most pleasing in its general effect. Within are library, reading-rooms, hall, gymnasium, and several convenient lodging-rooms. Chas. Goodall, President; H. L. Chamberlain, Librarian. .
Business Buildings and Blocks.
Alta California Building — On the south side of California street, between Montgomery and Kearny. Its comparatively great height, as related to its width, give it a somewhat monumental appearance, not inai3propriate, however, when we remember that the whole tasteful structure stands as the monu- ment of the enterprise, energy, perseverance and success of the oldest and largest paper published in the State. Fred. MacCrellish & Co., proprie- tors.
Bancroft's — South side of Market street, between Third and Fourth. Few business buildings upon the continent combine the colossal proportions with the graceful details of this mammoth house of the oldest and largest publishing firm upon the coast.
DoNOHOE, Kelly & Co.'s Building — Upon the southeast corner of Montgomery and Sacramento streets, deserves mention among the finest business buildings.
Harpending's Block — On the south side of Mar- ket street, between First and Second; the longest
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and loftiest business front presented by any single business block in the city.
Murphy, Grant & Go's. Building — Northeast corner of Bush and Sansome. A large and hand- some building, as strong as iron, stone and brick can make it.
ToBiN, Dixon & Davisson's Building — Northwest corner of Sansome and Sutter, can hardly be omitted from the inspection of our finest business houses.
Tread well's Agricultural Warehouse — South side of Market street, opposite Front. Not lofty, but broad; not imposing, but extensive.
Tucker's — Northwest corner of Montgomeiy and Sutter. Lofty, finely -j^roportioned, monu- mental, and substantial; surmounted by a clock- tower, which has become one of the landmarks of the city. The main salesroom within is beautifully frescoed and fitted throughout with extreme ele- gance and at great cost.
The White House — Comer of Kearny and Post streets. An elegant new ii'on and brick structure, light, airy and ornamental in its general efiect. Beceives -its name from its color, which has hitherto been an uncommon one in this city, but is daily becoming less so. Occupied chiefly by the leading dry goods firm of J. W. Davidson & Co.
Wells, Fargo & Co's. Building — Corner of California and Montgomery streets. Who does not
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know it ? Solid granite blocks, dressed in China, brought hither in ships, and piled in stern sim- plicity upon that central corner to outstand all earthquake shocks, and survive all business wrecks. A pioneer building which has already become far too small for its immense business, but ought never to be taken down until the whole city goes with it.
Manufactories.
Kimball Car and Carriage FACTORY.—Corner of Bryant and Fourth streets. Eastern visitors call this the largest establishment of the kind in America. In .immense extent, convenient arrangement, and comprehensiveness of scope, it can hardly be sur- passed. Its latest triumph is the construction of a magnificent Palace Car, built wholly of California woods, undisguised by paint, carving, gilding, or varnish — the most complete and superb palace on wheels ever built. Thirty-five different woods enter into its construction, displaying a variety of structure and a range of harmonious tints hardly imaginable by those who have seen only the poor imitations of feeble art. The car is a triumph of taste and skill, and is worth a half-day's time of any tourist simply to study and enjoy it. It has been proposed that the merchants of this city buy it, and present it to the President of the United States — to the office^ not the incumbent — to be kept at Washington, and used as the official car for all
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Presidential tours. A better idea could hardly be suggested. May the motion prevail !
The Pacific Rolling Mills stand upon the point of the Potrero. They include all the massive machinery of their ponderous business, and turn out heavy castings, forgings, and railroad iron by hundreds of tons daily.
The Mission Woolen Mills — Folsom street, cor- ner of Sixteenth. Here are made those wonderful blankets of such marvelous fineness and thickness, which have attracted so much attention, and re- ceived even the World's Fair premium abroad.
Foundries and Iron Works.
Union Iron Works. — The oldest and largest in California, emplopng three hundred and thirty men, and turning out the heaviest and most perfect mining and railroad machinery, locomotives, etc. Located on the northeast corner of Mission and First streets. H. J. Booth & Co.
KisDON Iron and Locomotive Works, southeast corner of Howard and Beale streets. Has all the latest mechanical improvements of the business. Can turn out a shaft forty-eight feet long, and weighing thirty tons. It employs two hundi'ed and seventy-five hands. John N. Eisdon, president.
The Fulton, Miners', and Pacific Foundries, with the Etna and Vulcan Iron Works, are the other leading ones of the coast.
SA.V FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. i6i
Shot To^wer and Lead Works.
Corner of Howard and First streets. The pioneer
and, thus far, the only works upon the coast. The
tower is one of the most prominent and sightly
objects visible in all the water approaches to the
city.
Sugar Refineries.
The city has four: The San Francisco and Paci- fic, Bay, California, and Golden Gate, turning out twenty thousand tons of sugar annually.
Ship Yards.
At North Beach and at the Potrero are the prin- cipal yards. They build mainly river steamers or ferry boats, or smaller ocean craft, rarely construct- ing anything above three hundred tons. For larger craft it is cheaper to go north, where immense forests of the finest ship-timber run clear down to the ocean beach, and stand asking to be built into ships.
Glass Works.
Two : one in the city, on the south side of Town- send, between Third and Fourth; and the other, the Pacific Glass works, on the Potrero, at the corner of Iowa and Mariposa streets. These con- fine their works chiefly to bottles, telegraph caps, etc. .
Churches.
Baptist. — This prominent denomination has six
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cliurcli buildings in the city. The First Baptist Church claims special space from the fact that it was the first Protestant house of worship dedicated in California. This Avas in August, 1849. The present building of stuccoed brick, occupies the original site of the first small, wooden pioneer church — on the north side of Washington street, between Stockton and Dupont. Rev. A. R. Med- bury. Pastor.
CoNGEEGATiONAL. — This denomination has the honor of ha\ang furnished the first settled Protest- ant chaplain in San Francisco, Rev. T. Dwight Hunt. He held the rare position of "Citizens' Chaplain," Nov. 1st, 1848, conducting Divine wor- ship) every Sunday in the " Public Institute," (the school-house) on Portsmouth Square — the Plaza. The citizens unitedly invited him from Honolulu, and paid him $2,500 a year. The denomination has four chui'ch buildings- -named by their order of erection. The First Congregational Church is on the southwest corner of CaHfornia and Duj)ont streets. The pastor is Rev. Dr. Stone, formerly of the Park street church, Boston.
Episcopal. — This denomination has five church buildings, of which Grace Church, corner of Cali- fornia and Stockton streets, is the oldest and larg- est. The building is 135 feet long, 62 feet wide and &Q feet high. Its great size and sightly location make it one of the prominent buildings in any
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general view of the city. Kev. James S. Bush, Rector. The four other Episcopal church build- ings are — Trinity, St. John's, Cburch of the Advent, and St. Luke's.
Hebrew. — Synagogue of the Congregation Emanu-el, Sutter street, between Stockton and Powell. Of the five Jewish congregations, this has " The Synagogue" par excellence — the one always meant when one speaks of " The Jewish Syna- gogue." It is an elegant and costly structure, built of brick, not yet stuccoed, supporting two promi- nent towers, and finished within in most approx)ri- ate and artistic style. Total cost, including lot, $185,000, gold coin.
Methodist. — This popular, powerful and rapidly growing denomination has already erected eleven church buildings in San Francisco — more than any other Protestant Church, except the Presbyterians. Its newest and most elegant church is the First Methodist Ej)iscopal Church, on the west side of Powell, between Washington and Jackson. This is one of the most elegant and really artistic churches i within and without, any where to be found. Rev. Dr. Cox, Pastor.
Howard Street M. E. Church. — South side of Howard, between Second and Third. This is the most substantial and valuable building owned by the denomination. Value, including lot and par-
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sonage, $100,000. Its style is medieval gothic. Pastor, Rev. L, Walker.
Presbyterian. — This recently united denomina- tion, no longer old and new school, lias also eleven churcli buildings; of these the two most noted are the Calvary Presbyterian Church, corner of Geary and Powell street-s. This church is as capa- cious and comfortable, even luxurious within, as the most fastidious could desire. Its organ is the largest and finest on the coast. Eev. J. Hemj)hill, Pastor.
Howard Presbyterian Church, Mission street, near Thii'd; lately, Eev. Dr. Scudder's. This building, with a plain and unpretentious ex- terior, has greater seating capacity than any other Protestant church in the city. It is of recent con- struction and very convenient internal arrange- ments. Temporary pastor. Rev. J. K. Kendall.
First Presbyterian Church — On the west side of Stockton, between Washington and Clay. This gothic building is one of the largest and finest — but its chief claim to notice here, rests upon the fact that the church which built it, organized May 20th, 1849, under the direction of the Rev. Albert Williams, was the first Protestant church organized in San Francisco.
Roman Catholic. — St. Patrick's Church, on the north side of Mission, between Third and Fourth streets. Although so new that it is not yet fin-
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ishecl, this church is set first, because it is the largest in the State, being one hundred and sixty feet long by eighty feet wide. Its spire is the loftiest and most beautifully proportioned in the city, height 240 feet. Rev. Peter J. Grey, Pastor.
St. Mary's Cathedral, California street, at the northeast corner of Dupont. In age, cost and rank this building is entitled to the first place. It is a noble structure of Gothic architecture, which has been carried out in every detail. The front extends seventy- five feet on California street, from which the cathedral runs back one hundred and thii-ty-one feet on Dupont. The tower is at present one hun- dred and thirty -five feet high, and is to be sur- mounted by a spire rising sixty-five feet further. The Most Rev. Joseph S. Alemany is the Arch_ bishop.
Old Mission Church, on the southwest corner of Sixteenth and Dolores streets. This was dedicated Oct. 9, 1776, by Father Junipero Serra, the father of the California missions. Aside from its age and associations, the building is of little note. It is built of the old adobes, which were simply unburnt bricks dried in the sun, and formed a favorite build- ing material with the early Spanish and Mexican inhabitants. The old custom-house, on Portsmouth square, was built of this material. The roof was covered with semi-cylindrical tiles of burnt clay, laid in alternate rows, the first one having the con-
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caTe side up, and tlie next its convex side up. The outside, generally, is very plain, though the front shows some old-fashioned round columns, and a few small bells sus^^endedin square apertures under the projecting roof. The interior is dark, cold and comfortless. Rev. Thos. Gushing, Pastor.
Besides the three churches already named, the Catholics have nine others in the city, in addition to five or six chapels and asylums.
SwEDENBOEGiAN. — First Ncw Jerusalem Church. This is a very neat Gothic building, on the north side of OTarrell, between Mason and Taylor streets. Eev. John Doughty, Pastor.
A second New Jerusalem Church, of which Rev. Joseph Worcester is pastor, having yet erected no building, meets in the Druids' Hall, No. 413 Sutter street.
Unitarian. — First Unitarian Church. This most beautiful church edifice stands upon the south side of Geary street, just below Stockton. Its front pre- sents, unquestionably, the finest sj)ecimen of church architecture in the State, and can hardly be sur- passed in America. The interior is tastefully deco- rated with a colored fresco of extreme beauty, and most artistic harmony of tint. The organ, bajD- tismal font, and the 23ulj)it, perpetuate the unique taste of the lamented pastor, whose loved name the public mind cannot dissociate from the beautiful
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building, whicli, always known as " Starr King's" cliurcli, has become his fitting monument.
This is the only church building of this denom- ination in the city or the State.
Chinese Mission House. — This is a combination church and school-house, new, neat and commo- dious, fifty-six feet by seventy feet, and three stories high. Adjoining school-rooms, readily thrown into one, rooms for the Superintendent, Eey. Mr. Gibson and family, and for his assistant, Kev. Hu Sing Me, the native j)reacher, and his family, occu- py the various floors. School "keeps" every even- ing in the week, except Saturday and Sunday. Bible class at half-past ten every Sunday morning, and Sunday school at seven p. m.
The entire property belongs ta the Methodist Church, who maintain it as a most efficient home mission.
The Mariner's Chu^xjh, northeast corner of Sacra- mento and Drumm streets. It is a neat and com- modious wooden building, erected in 1867, by contiibutions from merchants and other citizens of San Francisco. Rev. J. Rowell, Pastor.
Hospitals and Asylums.
City and County Hospital, — Stands upon the southwest corner of Stockton and Francisco streets.
FiiENCH Benevolent Society. — Has one of the finest hospitals of the State, a large and handsome
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brick building, surrounded witb j)leasant gardens and ornamented grounds, occui^ying the whole block on the south side of Biyant, between Fifth and Sixth, making a most agTeeable and healthful home for the invalid. Others besides French may receive its benefits, by assuming membership and j)aying its moderate dues.
German Genekai. Benevolent Society. — Admits only Germans. It has over eighteen hundred members. On Brannan street, near Third, this society has a verj^ large two-story brick building with basement — furnished with eveiy fonn of bath, and looking out upon fine gardens and shrubbeiy.
Protestant Orphan Asylum. — On the West side of Laguna- street, between Haight and Waller. A large and ^egant building of brick and stone — one of the ornamental landmarks of that part of the city. It accommodates two hundred and fifty little ones. Mrs. Ii'a P. Eankin, President; Mrs. Lucy Stewart, Matron.
Roman Catholic Orphan Asylum. — Market street, south side, between New Montgomery and Third. A noble and cajDacious brick building accommo- dating three hundred and twenty children, and having a school of five hundred and fifty day scholars attached. The Asylum is under the sole management of Archbishop Alemany and the Sisters of Charity.
San Francisco Female Hospital. — Comer of Clay
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 169
street and Prospect Place. Any woman who is sick and poor, has a right to its benefits. It is a genuine charity, regarding neither nativity, relig- ion nor social rank. Mrs. M. E. Eoberts, Presi- dent; Dr. C. T. Deane, Physician.
Ladies' Protection and Relief Society. — Frank- lin street, between Post and Geary. The main object 6f the society is to furnish a real Home for friendless or destitute gii'ls, between three and four- teen years old. Boys, under ten and over three, may be received . and provided for until furnished with a permanent home in a christian family. It has over two hundred inmates, nearly all girls. Miss C. A. Harmon, Matron.
Nearly a hundred other public and private benevolent societies attempt to make up, as well as possible, the lack of friends and homes, always so severely felt by strangers or temporary residents in any large city, and especially so in one of as cos- % mopolitan a character as ours.
Colleges.
Besides the larger public schools, which are really the peoples' colleges — the city has sixty-five colleges and private schools. The number of pupils attending them in 1870 was 4,582, against 21,000 in the public schools.
City College. — Southeast corner of Stockton and Geary streets. This institution has built and
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furnislied an elegant French GotMc building at University Mound, some three miles southwest of the city, which it will occui)^^ early in '72. Be- sides the usual studies, this college especially pro- vides the best facilities for obtaining a thorough practical knowledge of Chemistry, in all its ap- plications to assaying, mining, medical manufac- tures and mechanics. Rev. Dr. Veeder, President.
Heald's Business College. — College Building, Post street, between Montgomeiy and Kearny. Its design is to educate bo3-s and young men, with a special view to practical business. It is one of the famous thirty-six Brj^ant and Stratton Business Colleges, located in the leading cities of the United States and Canada. Students, two hundred and fifty. E. P. Heald, President.
St. Ignatius' College. — -Occupies the noble brick building on the south side of Market street, be- tween Fourth and Fifth. It is largely attended, and is successfully conducted by the Jesuit Fathers.
St. Maky's College. — On the old county road to San Jose, four and a half miles southwest of the city. Building, two hundred and eighty feet front, by fifty feet deep — of excellent proportion and fine appearance. Conducted by the Christian Brothers. B. Justin, President.
ToLAND Medical College. — East side of Stock- ton street, between Chestnut and Francisco. The
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SAiV FRANCISCO AND VICINITY.
171
building is of brick, capacious, commodious, finely located and admirably adapted to the purpose of its construction. H. H. Toland, M. D., President.
Public School Buildings.
Lincoln. — Fifth street — soutli side, near Market. Brick structure, four stories liigii, 141J feet long, 63 J feet wide; 20 class-rooms 129x34 feet, besides eiglit wardrobes and teachers' rooms — wide halls, and four broad stairways the whole height, with a large hall in the upj^er story. It accommodates twelve hundred grammar grade pupils, all boys. In front stands a finel}^ modeled statue of Abraham Lincoln for whom the building was named. Cost, $100,000, gold coin. B. Marks, Principal.
Denman. — Bush street, north side, corner of Tajdor. Brick stuccoed; length, 98J feet; width, 68 feet; height, four stories, including attic rooms. Fourteen class-rooms, each 28x34, accommo- dating eight hundred pupils, all girls. Cost, $78,000, gold. This building was named in honor of James Denman, one of the pioneer public school teachers of the city^ — the founder of this school and for many years, as at present, its j)rincij)al. Few cities in the Union can show school buildings as elegant, convenient, substantial and costly as these two noble monuments of public ap}Dreciation of, and liberality towards, the system which must underlie and sustain our free government if it is to stand at all.
172 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
Tehama. — Teliama street, near First. Brick, un- disguised; 111 feet long, 75 feet deep, three stories high, besides spacious basement play-rooms — has sixteen class-rooms, each 24x31, hall, 41x49, with ample stairings, and convenient teacher's-rooms and amj^le yards. Cost, $28,300, gold. It accom- modates one thousand primary pupils of both sexes. Mrs. E. A. Wood, Principal.
Besides these, the city has several large and fine wooden school-houses of modern structure. Of these the most sightly, is the Girls' High School, south side of Bush street, near Stockton — 57x92, three stories, ten class-rooms, 27x34, with an as- sembly hall, 54x55; whose length can be increased to 90 feet, by opening folding doors between it and two adjoining class-rooms. It is the most con- veniently arranged, best ventilated, sunniest, most cheerful and healthful school-house in the State. Ellis H. Holmes, Principal. To these the De- partment has recently added, and is now adding, four or five 18 class-room Jjuildings, of wood, each accommodating one thousand pupils, now occupying the old and small school-rooms of early days or hived in unsuitable rented rooms.
Bancroft's Book and Stationery Establishment.
It may appear like exaggeration to say that San Francisco contains the largest and most complete general Book and Stationery, mercantile and manu-
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SAN FRAA CISCO AND VICINITY. 173
facturing business in the world. Yet, such is the fact. Not that the business, by any means, equals that of Harpers' and Appletons', of New York, Hach- ette of Paris, or the stationers of London. But, between these houses and Bancroft's, there is no comparison. The character of their trade is totally different. One publishes books, another manufac- tures paper, and so each is large in one thing, whereas the Bancrofts, collecting from the manu- facturers of all the world, and manufacturing ac- cording to the requirements of their trade, cover under one management the ground occupied by all others combined. In older and larger cities, one house deals in law 'books alone; another, school books, etc., while this San Francisco house — besides a full stock of books in every department of litera- ture, and stationery from the manufacturers of Eu- rope and America, paper from the mills of New England, pencils from Germany, pen-holders from Paris — unite Printing, Book-binding, Lithography, Blank-Book Making, Engraving, &c., every thing, in short, comprised in all the business of all the others.
The detail is necessarily very great. They buy from a thousand sellers, and sell to many thousand buyers. Over one hundred employes, divided into nine departments, each under an experienced man- ager, ply their vocation like bees in a hive of six rooms, each 37 by 170 feet. To the latest improve-
174 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
ments of the finest macliineiy, clriYen by steam, ap- ply tlie highest order of sMlled labor, and San Francisco can do anything as well and as cheaply as N-ew York, London or Paris.
The retail department, occupying the first floor, has the most magnificent salesroom on the Pacific coast. Visitors are warmly welcomed, and stran- gers politely shown through the premises.
Private Residences.
For the convenience of the touiist, who may want to see the homes of our city as well as her public buildings and business blocks, we mention the locality of the following, wlach are among the finest of our private dwellings: Erwin Da^is, southwest comer of California and Powell streets; Milton S. .Latham, Folsom street, opposite Haw- thorne, on Rincon Hill; D. J. Tallant, corner of Bush and ifonee^ street; Richard Tobin, corner of California and Taylor Streets; John Parrott, 620 Folsom street. By making two trips — first, over California street, and retmiiing by Sutter or Bush street; second, over Rincon Hill on Folsom street, and retui-ning by Hamson, the visitor may see the finest of our private residences.
Points of Observation.
Telegraph Hlll. — This notable natural landmark stands at the head, that is, at the north end of
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 175
Montgomery street. The early settlement, the pioneer hamlet from which, the present city has grown, was made in the hollow near the southwest foot. Civilization has encircled it on the land side, ^. and crept two thirds the way up, while com- merce has claimed the water front along its oppo- site base — but the summit still stands as free as when the priestly fathers first looked thence upon the glorious inland sea, which flashes between it and the sunrise. Let us climb it — this way, straight uj) the Montgomery street sidewalk. Slowly, please; we have the day before us; exhausted lungs impair one's sight. Stop at the corner of each intersecting street, and glance either way, but es- pecially eastward — that is, downward toward the Bay. Now, *' Excelsior," again; up these stairs; now along this natural surface — no as^Dhaltum walks or Stow foundation pavements up here yet, you see — on, by these houses; turn to the left here; now to the right, follow this winding way; patiently please — that's it; only two or three minutes more — ah! here it is — this is the highest point, where the old observatory stood'. Sit and breathe a mo- ment; slip oh your overcoat, or put that extra shawl about you; it's easy to take cold here, far easier than to rid yourself of it in the city below. For the sake of method in our survey, we may as well begin at the northwest; thence " swing round the circle," through north, east, south and west, 8
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and return to the point of starting. Looking nortti- westerlj^ then, we have first the elevated, undu- lating plateau, which stretches along the flattened
^ summits of the northermost spur of the broad jDeninsular hills, and terminates in the precipitous bluff known as Fort Point — the southern gate-post of the far-famed Golden Gate. Throug'h this we gaze seaward along the further margin of the strait, where it sends in a surging cove upon the rocky beach, between Point Diablo and Point Bonita. The projection of the latter point shuts off the vision, which else might range up the northwesterly trend of the coast, along the ocean-shore of Marin county to Punta de los Reyes, (King's Point) which projects southward between Bolinas bay and the ocean. Between Point Diablo and Lime Point, a
• slight northerly curve, in the shore line makes a shallow cove, from whose edge the vision climbs the successive hills or ridges which fill the ascending space as it roughly rises toward the crowning point of Marin county, Mmint Tamalpais, two thousand six hundred and four feet nearer heaven than the beach line whence we set forth. Still following round, we look up into Richardson's Baj;; next the southwestern end of Raccoon Strait, and then Angel Island. We are now looking north. Alca- traz, the rocky island which nature set just there to support a commanding • fortress ; then, an eye- sweep up over the northern pai-t of San Francisco
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 177
Bay to that narrow strait whicli joins it with San Pablo Bay; northeast the San Pablo shore of Con- tra Costa county, and the hills which terminate the Mount Diablo peninsular range. Nearer east, the strangely monotonous hills, whose ridges and gullies look as if plowed out by heavy rains, and rounded by sweeping winds. Grassy or earthy, they look, according to the time of year and kind of season. Now, almost east, the vision falls. This large island, off in the midst of the bay, is Yerba Buena, or Goat Island. It rises three hundred and fort}^ feet above low water mark. Nearly in a line over the island appears Berkeley, the site of the University of California, of which one large build- ing, already two thirds raised, you may possibly discern. A little further south — that is, to the right, you can j^lainly see the State Asylum for the Deaf and Dumb and Blind. This noble building- crowns a gently-sloping eminence just at the mar- gin betw.een the broad and nearly level plain which stretches between it and the bay, and the foothills back of which the Contra Costa mountains bring- up the rear.
Almost due east lies Oakland, the tree-city of the beautiful grove-dotted plain. Then Clinton, San Antonio, Brooklyn and Alameda, snuggled in together so closely that one can't tell " which is which;" and, as far as the beauty of the view is concerned, it doesn't matter either, for they are all
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fair to look upon and IotgIt to behold. The clus- tering trees shut out by far the larger portion of the houses, so that we might hardly susi^ect the size and population of the towns, whose scattered roofs show here and there among the trees.
We are loolang southeasterly now. That creek, whose mouth you see just beyond Alameda, leads into San Leandro bay; and right over it, nearly hidden by intei-vening trees, lies the town of the same name. A little fui-ther south, and too dis- tant to be plainly seen, is Hayward's. That de- pression in the mountain summits beyond, marks the opening of Livermore pass, thi'ough which the Western Pacific Railroad finds its way.
Beyond Hayward's, further south, and thence sweeping around to the right, toward the extreme end of the bay, we dimly discern the noiihern end of the beautiful Santa Clara Valley, where it widens out and flattens down to the bay. We are now looking abnost due south. Only foui- miles down. Hunter's Point shuts off our further view, and com- pels us to look nearer home. A trifle west of that, and half as'far away, the Potrero j^resents its trans- verse ridge, fast disapj)earing under the rapidly- growing city, and showing a gap of daylight where the deep cut of the Bay View horse railroad was re- lentlessly dug and blasted through, in its stubborn pursuit of a practicable grade. Between the cut and ourselves, the Long Bridge' shuts off the Mis-
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY, 179
sion bay, and shows where the fast-filling mud-flats will soon crowd back the bay, and make a new water front. Still nearer, we have the western slope or ridge of Kincon Hill, rising gradually to the left, and packed all over with the huddled and mostly wooden houses of the new and hurriedly- built city. Along the inner base of the hill, and stretching out westward, lies the old " Happy Valley." That's just this side of where you see the shot-tower, and runs thence four or five blocks to the right. Between that and ourselves, coming- over this side of Market street, we have the oldest and most denselj^-built part of the city, relieved here and there — by the Occidental Hotel, Tucker's tower, the Merchants' Exchange, Murphy, Grant & Go's, building, and half a dozen others. Now let the vision range away southwest, again begin- ning at the hills and coming in. The bounding hills are Bernal Heights, west of which Fairmount and the adjacent hills merge into the peninsular range, and form a rude amphitheatre, within which nestles the fast-growing southwestern precinct. Coming up toward the west, the twin summits of the Mission peaks slant the vision up against the sky, or plunge it into the fleecy billows of in-rolling ocean fog, Avhich seldom survives the warmer air of the inner basin long enough to roll far down their western slope. Between them and Vis lies the Mis- sion Dolores, grouped around its century-old
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cliurcli. Nortliward of the twin-peaks tlie hills rise in " promiscuous prominence." A little south of west, that irregularly conical hill, surmounted by a gigantic solitary cross, is the famous "Lone Mountain," about whose lower slopes, and around Avhose base are gTouped so many " cities of the dead." Thence northerly, to the point whence our sui'vey began, little of note arrests the sight, more than the broad reach of lower hills and sandy dunes, which patiently wait the coming occupation of the westward-growing city.
Although the point beneath our feet is but three hundred feet high, the panoramic view is wider and freer than from any other, even the highest hilltop of the city.
Russian Hill. — About one mile west-southwest from Telegraph Hill, on Vallejo street, between Taylor and Jones street, Russian Hill rises nearly sixty feet higher, but offers little additional pros- pect. It was formerly surmounted by a sort of cork-screw obsei-vatory, a skeleton structure of open frame-work, suiTounded by a spiral stairway, whose summit afforded the loftiest lookout within the city limits. West-northwest of this hill, and about three-quarters of a mile from its summit, lies the small lagoon, near which the founders of the early mission first located.
Clay Street Hill. — Nearly south of Russian Hill, and about three furlongs from it, rises this
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICLNIl V.
hill, the highest within the city limits. It is named from the street which runs just south of its summit, or will do so v/hen cut through. The hill is 376 feet high, and is a little over a mile south- west of telegraph Hill. The view from its sum- mit differs only in having moved the point of sight a mile southwest, and raised it about 80 feet.
California Street Hill — This, too, takes its name from that of the neighboring street. It is hardly proper to call it a separate hill as it is but two blocks south of Cla'^ Street Hill, from which only a slight hollow originally separated it.
RiNCON Hill. — Three quarters of a mile south- west of the City Hall. Its highest point reaches hardly a hundred feet above the bay level. The whole hill originally offered such sightly locations for building that it is covered on nearly all sides, and crowded upon its very height, by some of the most comfortable and home-like residences in the entire city. This fact makes it almost impossible to get an unobstructed view, in all directions, from any part of it. It was a favorite, and almost an aristocratic site for residences, until the heartless greed for gain procured legal authority to excavate the famous " Second Street Cut;" 75 feet deep, which needlessly ruined the beauty of the hill.
Lone Mountain. — This singularly symmetrical hill stands two and one-half miles west of the City Hall, at the head of Bush street. It is 284J feet
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high. From its summit rises a solitaiy cross which, especially near sunset, stands foi*th against the western sky with peculiar, beautiful effect. The view hence is full of inspiration and suggestion. None have caught more of these, or embodied them in finer words than Bret Harte, in his fayorite lines :
As I stand by the cross on the lone niomitain crest,
Looking oyer the ultimate sea, In the gloom of the mountain a ship lies at rest.
And one sails away froUFthe lea; One spreads its white wings on a far-reaching track.
With pennant and sheet flowing free, One hides in the shadow with sails laid aback —
The ship that is waiting for me !
BiTt lo, in the distance the clouds break away,
The Gate's glowing portal I see, And I hear, from the out-going ship in the bay,
The song of the sailors in glee; So I think of the luminous foot-prints that bore
The comfort o'er dark Galilee, And wait for the signal to go to the shore;
To the ship that is waiting for me.
Mission Peaks. — The double peaks already men- tioned in our panoramic eye-sweep from Telegraph Hill, lying three miles southwest of it, sometimes called the Twin Peaks. They are five hundred and ten feet high, and stand four miles southwest of the City Hall. They, are the loftiest points in the county; either summit commands a view which
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well repays the time and labor expended in gain- ing it.
Bernal Heights. — This name designates a sliort range of hills nearly five miles west-southwest of the City Hall. Starting near the bay, they run transversely, that is, westerly, far about one mile across the peninsula. Their highest point is two hundred and ninety-five feet above the bay.
The highest point of the Potrero is three hun- dred and twenty-six feet above low tide, and the San Miguel Hills, near the southerly line of the county, reach the height of about four hundred feet. The Pacific Heights, near Alta Plaza, a mile and a half west of the City Hall, are three hundred and seventy-five feet high.
These are all the natural elevations of note within the city and county. The best artificial otrtlooks may be had from the roof of the houses standing on or near the summits of those hills wliich rise within the settled j)ortion. The roof of Bancroft's building, the cupola of the Grand Hotel, the U.S. Military Observatory, on the southwest corner of Third and Market streets, and the Shot Tower, if you can j^ersuade Mayor Selby to let you up, ail. afford extensive and beautiful prosj)ects.
Having thus told the tourist all we know about the most feasible and temperate methods of ' ' get- ting high," we leave him to his own direction, only adding that if he isn't satisfied with our efforts in his
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behalf, lie'd better go " up in a balloon," and view our citj^ as the Germans did Paris.
How to get about.
The universal, inexpensive, always-ready and democratic way is by the ever-present Horse Cars. Seven different companies have laid about fifty miles of rail in and about the city, and carry one either directly to or within a very short distance of any desired point.
Lines, Routes and Colors. — The Omnibus and North Beach and Mission R.R. Companies run yellow cars through Third and Fourth, Sansome, Montgomery and Kearney, the central blocks of Stockton, and the northern ends of Powell and Mason. They also run red cars from the centre of the city to the southwestern limits, through How- ard and Folsom streets.
The Central Jl.R. Co. runs red cai*s from the steamboat landings along the city front, through Jackson, Sansome, Bush, and other leading streets to Lone Mountain. Theii- cars are commonly called the Lone Mountain cars.
The Front Street and Ocean R.E. Co. runs gi-een cars from the steamboat landings at the foot of Broadway, up that street, along Battery, Market, Sutter and Polk streets, by Spring Valley to the Presidio, whence ' busses connect for Fort Point, A. branch of this road runs through Larkin street
SAy FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 185
across Market tlirougli Ninth to Mission; thus con- necting the western with the southwestern suburbs. Within the year this company has also constructed and put into operation another branch, carrying one to Laurel Hill Cemetery and Lone Mountain.
The Market Street K.E., the pioneer, runs blue cars from the junction of Montgomeiy and Market street, opposite the Grand Hotel, through Market by the San Jose Depot, and out Valencia to Twenty-sixth. From the junction of Ninth and Larkin street with Market, it sends a branch out through Hayes Valley to Hayes Valley Pavilion.
The City R. R. — Lately built, and newly stocked, runs from the west front of Grand Hotel, at the junction of Market and New Montgomery, along the latter to Mission, thence out Mission to Twenty- Sixth, passing directly by the entrance to Wood- ward's Gardens, and within one block of the San Jose depot.
The Potrero and Bay View R. R. — Connecting with the North Beach and Mission R. R., at the south end of Fourth street, runs thence across the Long Bridge over Mission Bay — through the. Potrero Deep Cut, over the Islais Creek bridge, through South San Francisco to the Bay View Race Track terminus, within half a mile of Hunter's Point and the Dry Dock.
Times, Fares, etc. — Commencing at about 6 p. M., in summer earlier, the cars run at various in-
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tervals of from tliree to seven minutes until 11 and 12 o'clock p. M., and on the City E. R., till 1.30 the next morning. Nearly all the roads sell tickets, haying four coupons attached, for 'twenty-five cents each. Every coupon is good for one fare from one end of the city to the other, and the coupon tickets of one* company are received by every other. For single fares, paid without coupons, they usually charge ten cents. Nearly a year ago the City R. R. started the half-dime fare, asking but five cents for a single ride, and the Market street R. R. has also adopted it. "Children occupying seats, full fare."
Several of the companies issue transfer checks entitling the passenger to continue his ride upon any intersecting line without extra charge.
Hacks and Coaches. — For the benefit of those who have occasion to engage any of the above, for the transient sei-vice of any excursion lying outside of the regular routes, or beyond the legal limits within which the fixed fare obtains, we subjoin the following l©gal regulations also contained in the order and section already quoted on a previous page:
*' For a hackney carriage, drawn by more than one horse, for four or less persons, when engaged by the hour, to be computed for the time occupied in going and returning, including detention, $3 for the first hour, and $2 for each subsequent hour.
SAJV FRANCISCO AND VICINIl V. 187
" For a hackney carriage, drawn by one horse, for two persons, when engaged by the hour, to be occupied in going and returning, including deten- tions, $1 50 for the first hour, and $1 for each subsequent hour."
It is hardly necessary to remark, yet it may pre- vent misunderstanding to add, that the above rates pay for the service of the lahole carriage, and may be equitably divided among the occupants as they agree.
Livery Service. — The livery stables of the city are numerous, and well-stocked with animals of blood and sj)eed, and every form of two or four- wheeled vehicles from the substantial, three-seated thorough-braced w^agon to the elegant or fancy single buggy or sulky. The usual rates, at all first class stables, are five dollars a day, or a drive, for a single team, and ten dollars for a double one. For a very short trip, and a very short time, they frequently abate something, and when a team is engaged for several days or weeks at once, com- monly make the rate lower. For saddle horses the price is usually one half that of a single team, that is $2 50 for a day or drive — subject to similar re- ductions as above.
On Foot. — If you -have the nerve and muscle of a man, and are not sadly out of training, by all means walk through or about the city and around its suburbs. In several places, as, in climbiiig Tele-
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graph or any other hill, you -will have to walk, and then 3^ou can. Even our lady visitors might profi- tably emulate the pedestrian performances of their English sisters. ' Provide good easy, wide-bot- tomed, low-heeled walking-shoes, boots or gaiters, and take the beautiful, windless and dustless morning hours for it and, unless your taste is fash- ionably perv^erted or your phj'sical energy hope- lessly exhausted, you will find it most delightful. Among the Scottish Highlands, or in the Swiss Alps, you would certainly do it, endure it, enjoy it, and subsequently boast of it; why not try it here ?
Suburbs and Vicinity.
We suppose the visitor to have fairly rested — to have walked about a little through the more central portion; to have somewhat studied the general plan of the city, in view of the larger or shorter time which he has to spend in the city, to have made up his mind how much he will see, and what it shall be. By way of helping his planning and sight-seeing, we now catalogue and briefly remark upon the more notable points, taken in regular order from the most central starting point. We offer the following pages as helpful suggestions to those who cannot avail themselves of the i^ersonal guidance of some resident friend, who can con- stantly accompany them to direct their route, and verbally explain the details which these printed
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pages attempt. If one lias not time, or does not wish to see anything here set down, he can easily omit it, and from the remainder select whatever he may chose, transposing, combining, modifying and adapting according to his own good pleasure.
GENEBAL CIRCUIT OF THE CITY.
Commencing at the foot of Market street, thence southward, along or over the water front, continu- ing around the entire city and returning to the point of starting. Also mentioning more distant points visible to the spectator looking beyond the suburbs :
The Lumber Yards, Wharves and Merchant Fleet, first attract our notice. Millions of feet of boards, plank and timber from the northern coast of this State and from Oregon, ranged in immense piles on broad and deep piers — alongside of which the schooners, brigs and barks of the lumber fleet are constantly discharging.
Thence along Stewart or East street, the latter being nearer the water, by large lumber-yards, boat-shops, blacksmithing and ship-chandling es- tablishments, we reach the California and Oregon S. S. Co's wharves and slips. The Folsdm street cars run within five short blocks ; nearer than any others.
Black Diamond Coal Company's Pier. — Barges, sheds and piles of coal, straight from the bowels of
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Mount Diablo, corner Spear and Harrison streets, P. B. Cornwall, agent.
Bincon Point, foot of Harrison street. The wharves and filling have quite obliterated the old shore line, which originally turning a short corner here, received the name "E-incon," which, in Span- ish, means simply a corner.
IT. S. Marine Hospital, noi-thwest corner of Har- rison and Spear.
P. M. S. S. Co.'s Piers, Docks, Sheds and Slips. Water front, foot of Brannan and Townsend streets. Piers having a total front of 1200 feet, shed 600 feet long by 250 wide. Steamships over five thou- sand tons register and docks built especially for them. Capt. W. B. Cox, Superintendent.
Gas Works, corner of King and Second. The other works of the same company, the San Fran- cisco Gas Co., are on Howard street, from First to Beale.
C. P. E. R. Co.'s Freight Pier, Depot and Boat. Foot of Second street.
Mission Bay. Foot of Second and Third streets. The broad cove lying between South street and Potrero ; now fast filling in, especially beyond, that is, south of the Long Bridge.
Mission Rock. — Off the foot of Third street. Has a shanty on it. Used for fishing.
XJ. S. Ship Anchorage. — Between foot of Third and the Mission Rock, and within a quarter-mile
SAJV FRANCISCO AND VICINITY.
radius of tlie latter. U. S. Revenue Cutters and Coast Survey vessels, chiefly occupy it.
Steamboat Reserves. — In the docks between Third and Fourth and the adjacent ones along the south side of the bridge.
Long Bridge. — From the foot of Fourth street, across Mission Bay to Potrero — one mile. Will becon^e Kentucky street, when tke filling-in makes a street of w^hat is now a bridge.
Yacht Club Building. — East side of Long Bridge, one third across. Yachts at moorings near.
Potrero. — The point at the south end of Long Bridge. Si)anish for pasture ground. Originally a rocky ridge. Fast disappearing under houses.
Glass Works. — Pacific Glass Works, corner Iowa and Mariposa streets, four blocks west of bridge.
Pacific Rolling Mill. — Potrero Point, water front, east of bridge.
Deep Cut, is really Kentucky street, brought down somewhere near the future grade, by cutting- through the solid rock, to an average depth of 75 feet for nearly a fifth of a mile.
Rope Walk runs under Kentucky street, near the north end of the Islais Creek Bridge, which is the same street continued across Islais Creek, now a solidly planked bridge, seven eighths of a mile long.
Italian Fishing Fleet and Flakes, on the right of the bridge, along the cove-beach just beyond the rope-walk. Their Mongolian competitors have their boats and beach a little further south.
192 BANCROFT'S TOURISTS GUIDE.
South San Francisco is the lising land or ridge south of Islais Creek. It is a pleasant suburb, rap- idly growing.
Catholic Orphan Asylum, that large, new wood- en building fronting on Connecticut street, nine blocks west of the bridge.
Hunter's Point is the east end of South San Francisco, a rocky point in which the Drs' Dock, dug out of the solid rock, four hundred and twen- ty-one feet long, one hundred and twenty feet wide at the top, and sixty feet wide at the bottom, which is twenty-two feet below mean high water. With the Floating Dock, near by, it cost two millions of dollars.
Bay Yiew Race Track, near Railroad Avenue, a mile southwest of Islais Bridge One mile around; broad, smooth and hard. Bay View House at north miirgin, near west end.
Visitacion Point and Valley, three quarters of a mile be3^ond the race course; worth driving out to see, if you have plenty of time.
San Bruno Road unites with this railroad avenue about half a mile beyond the race course; brings one back near
New Butchertown, corner of Islais Creek Canal and Kentucky street.
Drive back this old San Bmno Road, until jou come to Twenty-sixth street; along that to Mission; down Mission to Seventeenth, out which you may
SJJV FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 193
drive until you find your way winding and climbing up and over the east slopes of the peninsular hills along the Oce^i House Road, a broad, hard track, leading over the hills to the house which names it. Opposite Twenty-fourth street is the toll gate, where you pay twelve and a half, or twenty -five cents, according. to your team. A mile beyond, a side gate, free, admits you to a carriage-way through the fields, leading down, three quarters of a mile, to Lake Honda, the huge double-reservoir of slop- ing-sided masonry, covered with cement, and hold- ing thirty-five million gallons. This well merits a visit. The City Almshouse stands on the hill, half a mile south of the lake.
The Small-pox Hospital is the small building- standing alone on the hill, a third of a mile north of the Almshouse.
Returning to, and resuming the main road, a mile southwesterly and then westerly, brings us to the Ocean Race Course, securely enclosed, and having the usual circuit and surface.
Opposite this, and half a mile south lies Lake Merced, three quarters of a mile long by a fifth of a mile wide. That part of it nearer to, and paral- lel with the road, is a smaller, nearly separate lake called simply " the Lagoon."
Ocean House, on a slight sandy knoll, half a mile northwest of Lake Merced.
Pacific Beach. — This is the sandy shore of the
194 BANCROFT'S TOURISTS GUIDE.
'' ultimate sea," stretching almost exactly north two miles to the base of the cliff, up which a well-built road carries us a score of rods northt^esterly to the
Cliff House, the grand terminus, or at least way- station of all ocean diives. Its broad, covered piazza, well-furnished with easy chairs and good marine glasses, has been for y^ars the popular ob- sei'^atory whence fashion languidly patronizes the Pacific, or gazes with momentary interest -upon the
Seal Eocks — three hundi'ed feet from the shore, and dotted with lubb6rly seals, clumsily climbing upon the lower rocks, or lazily sunning themselves above.
Farallones — Twenty-five miles seaward from the Cliff House — seven sharj)-pointed islets break the monotony of the western horizon. The highest of these rises three hundred and forty feet, and has a large lighthouse of the first-class, vrith the finest Fresnel light on the coast.
Point Lobes, a precipitous' coast bluff, a thii'd of a niile north of the Cliff House, chiefl}^ noted as the site of the Signal Station; provided ^th a fine glass and the usual outfit of a marine observa- tory. Thence along the beach, or the brow of the bluff, if you like climbing, by the Helmet Rock, whose shape hardly appears from the land, around the curve of the shore, whose general direction here is northeast, a full mile, to
Fort Point, where stands a doubly-strengthened
SAiV FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 195
and ]iea\dly-mounted fort, yet unnamed, whose chief interest founds upon its general resemblance to the famous Fort Sumter.
Lighthouse. — The northwest angle of the fort supports a substantial tower, showing affixed white light. From the walls of the fort, or better still, from the lighthouse balcony, we look upon and across the
Golden Grate, the connecting strait between the Pacific Ocean and San Francisco Bay. It is be- tween three and four miles long, from one to two miles wide, and over four hundred feet deep.
Lime Point, the northern inside gate-post — the southeastern extremity of Marin county.
Point Bonita. — The outer or oceanward point of the northern shore, nearly two miles west of the fort, crowned with a lighthouse.
Mountain Lake — One mile south of the fort, and sending a little rivulet called Lobos Creek westward into the Pacific, which it helps to replenish.
Presidio — Spanish for garrison or barracks. This is nearly a mile southeast of the fort, as we return toward the city. Its main features are the exteur si ve barracks, accommodating several hundred U. S. soldiers, who make this their point of arrival and departure in going to or coming from the different stations to which they may be ordered. Forming the parallelogram front is the parade ground, a broad, open field, gently falling toward the bay,
196 BANCROFT'S TOURISTS GUIDE
surrounded by the officei-s' quarters or the bar- racks, and dotted with batteries here and there.
Black Point. — The water front at the foot of Franklin and Grough streets.
Pioneer Woolen Mills — Corner of Polk and Reade streets. Office, 115 Battery street.
North Beach — From the foot of Powell street west to Black Point.
Angel Island, three and a half miles north of Black Point, across the bay.
Alcatraces Island^A mile and a half north of North Beach, off in the ba}^ heavily fortified, com- manding the Golden Gate.
North Point — Water front, foot of Kearnj^ street, corner of Bay street.
Sea Wall — Water front from the foot of Union street, southward; a sloping bulkhead of rubble, faced with heavier rock, costing $240 a linear foot, and a mile and a half long.
Ferries. — Alameda — Corner of Davis and Pacific street. City Front Cars.
Oakland — Same dock, next slip south. City Front Cars.
Saucelito — Meiggs' Wharf, foot of Powell street. North Beach cars.
San Quentin — Davis street, near Vallejo. City Front or Sutter street cars.
Vallejo — Corner of Front and Vallejo. City Front or Sutter street cars.
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 197
HOW TO SEE SAN FRANCISCO • AND ITS SUEROUNDINGS.
Brief trij^s, or short excursions, requiring but a few hours each. Short skeleton tours in and about the suburbs, suggesting the most interesting points, with the walks, rides, drives or sails by which one may reach them — the time required and the best hours of the day, the amount of walking necessary, with the conveniences and cost.
IN AND ABOUT THE CITY.
I. Walk up Montgomery street to Telegraph Hill. If you don't feel like climbing clear to the top, follow the foot-path which winds around about two thirds up its east and northeast slopes. If you go to the top you can go down into — or if you take the lower path you will come round into, Lom- bard street. Walk down that to Powell; turn to your right and follow Powell north to the water and Meiggs' wharf, down the wharf if you want the bay breeze, and the bay sights from a lower level; come back — take the South Park cars; ride up Powell by Washington Square, up Stockton, down Washington — get out at the upper corner of the Plaza, walk diagonally across, notice the old City Hall on your left, stroll up Kearny to Cali- fornia or Bush, down which you descend one block to Montgomery.
II. Chinese Quarters. — Sacramento street, from Kearny to Dupont, along Dupont to Pacific, down
198 BANCROFT' S 'TOURIST'S GUIDE.
Pacific to Stockton, to Jackson, down Jackson to Kearny; cast your eyes down the little alleyways and courts which cut up the blocks along these streets. Look at these signs! " Hop Yik, Wo Ki, Tin Yuk, Hop Wo, Chung Sun, Cheung Kuong, Hang Ki, Yang Kee, Shang Tong, Shun Wo," that last would'nt be a bad one to go over the door of *' civilized" laim-hole. "Wing On Tsiang, Wung Wo Shang, Kwong On Cheang," and scores of others. Most are personal names, some are business mottoes.t They are generally phonographic, that is, you pronounce them according to their spelling*". Here and there one suggests fun. For instance, "ManLi." Well, why not a Chinaman as well as a white man? Has the superior race the monopoly of lying? That sign is certainly creditable to the Chinese female; it says Man Li; not woman lie . Not far thence a veiy appropriate successor finishes the logical se- quence, "Hung Hi." Certainly, why not? That's what ought to be done to any merchant who will lie. Any Man Li, should be " Hung Hi." These celestials certainly have no bad idea of the eternal fitness of things. What would haj)pen to our Melican merchants if that rule were rigidly aj)- plied ? It would'nt be much trouble to . take the next census. This is the out-door glance by daj'light. If you want a more thorough exploration by day or by night, call on special officer Duffield, (George
SAN FRAA CISCO AND VICINITY. 199
W.) at 1,107 Montgomory street, who knows their haunts and ways, and can show you all you'll care to see. His long, experience among them has also acquainted them with him to such a degree, that they allow him to enter and pass through their houses and rooms whence another might be shut out. In fact, he is their special officer, paid by the Chinese merchants to guard their property, and is emphatically the man to have for an escort. He can take you into their gambling saloons, into their pigeon-hole Jodging houses where rag-pickers, beg- gars and thieves fill the air with opium smoke, then shove themselves, feet foremost, into a square box of a pigeon-hole, more like a coffin than a couch. He can guide you into crooked, narrow, labyrin- thine passages through which you can just squeeze, and which you could never find nor enter without guidance; into inner courts, around which, and in the midst of which, stand old rickety, tumble-down, vermin-haunted hives of wooden tenements which rise through three or four stories, all alive with the swarming lazzaroni, packed into the smallest and dirtiest of rooms, and huddled into every dark and filthy corner.
These^are the lowest and worst of their race; the infeimal celestials, among whom the officer will not take a woman at all, and where it would not be safe for any man to attempt entrance alone. The ap- proaches are so ingeniously constructed and so art- 9
200 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
fully disguised, and the passages wind among each other so intricately, and intersect each other so per- plexingly, that not one in a thousand could ever find the beginning, and hardly one in ten thousand could discover the end.
" For ways that are dark. And for tricks that are vain, The heathen Chinee 'm peculiar ; Which the same I would rise to explain."
The stranger must not conclude, however, that such as these make up the bulk of the C^hinese who come to us. On the contraiy, these are the lowest and vilest, the dregs and settlings of their social system; no more fit to be taken as samples of their nation than the low, whisky-drinking, shillaly- swinging, skull-cracking, vote-re^Deating Irish, who now govern New York, are to be taken as fair types of the " finest pisantiy undher the sun," or consid- ered as a representative of the educated Irishman, than whom a warmer-hearted, freer-handed, more courteous-mannered gentleman one can hardly meet in a thousand miles.
So the middle classes of the Chinese are .cleanly, sober, industrious and honest, while their leading merchants, of whom we have several fine represen- tatives in the city, are models of business integrity and social courteB3^ Enter one of their establish- ments, with proper introduction, and you shall en- counter the most perfect politeness throughout the
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY.
interview, and carry away tlie impression that you were never more heartily welcomed and generously entertained, according to their custom, of course, by any strangers, in your life.
And one very notable thing should also be said of their street deportment; you may walk through their quarter every day and night for a month, and not see a single drunken man of their own race. If you encounter one at all, he is likely to belong to the " superior race."
Your survey of the Chinese quarter would be in- complete without a visit to their temples or joss houses. One of these stands off Pine, just above Kearny. They are also used as hospitals.
Should you wish any souvenir in the shape of their peculiarly ingenious manufacture,* you may find them at the Chinese or Japanese bazaars.
III. Thikd Street. — Five and a half blocks to South Park; thence three blocks to the water; along Channel street to Long Bridge. Here we may take the Bay- View cars, ride across the Mission Bay, visit the Eolling Mills, or keep on through the Deep Cut, over Islais Creek bridge, through South San Francisco, to Bay View track, whence 'busses carry us to Hunter's Point and the Dry Dock. Best time, morning, unless some ship is going into dock on the high tide. Fare in 'bus, twenty-five cents each.
202 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
IV. — Water FRONT-South of Market.-Walk along East or Stewart St., by U. S. Marine Hospital, to P. M.S.S. Co/s ships and docks andC. P.K.R. Freight piers and depot. Thus far no cars. At foot of Brannan take cars, ride up that to Third, down Third, by South Park, to Howard — along Howard to Second, along Second to Market again. Or j^ou can walk from the water up Second to Market again. Or you can walk from the water up Second through the cut to Han-ison, climb the bridge-stairs, walk down Hanisonto First or Fremont, turn left, and come back by the Shot Tower, Foundiies, and Factories to Market.
V. — Water Froxt — North of Market. — No cars here. Stroll northerly by the corners of the different streets, ajong the heads of the different piers, among the grain and produce boats, river steamer do(?ks and feny slips, around to North Point, with its bonded warehouses, iron clippers, and sea wall, thence back Sansome to Broadway, whence cars take you again to the centre.
YI. — Southwestern Suburbs. — From comer west front of Grand Hotel, take city cars out Mission, by fine new church, new Mint, to Woodward's Gar- dens; thence to Sixteenth; up that three blocks, westerly, to Dolores street, where stands the old Mission Church, the site of the first permanent set- tlement of San Francisco ; out Dolores; south two blocks, to Jewish Cemeteries; back by same way to
SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 203
Sixteenth ; down that to Mission Woolen Mills ; thence home by Folsom street or Howard street cars, either of which "brings you to Market street.
VII. — Western Suburbs and beyond. — From Montgomery up Sutter, by cars, or up Bush by feet or wheels. Either street carries jovl westerly to Laurel Hill, in which elegant monuments and mausoleums merit more than passing notice; thence east three blocks to Lfone Mountain and -the ceme- teries grouped about its base, and upon its lower slopes — the Odd Fellows', west; the Masonic, south, and the Calvary north and east. Out the Cliff House Eoad — you'll need horse probably, or can take the 'bus for 25 cents each way — by the Race Track or Driving Park, to the Cliff House; look at the Seal Rock's, Seals, Ocean andFarallones; thence south along Pacific Beach to Ocean House, whence in by Ocean Road or the new Central Road by Lake Peralta and Lake Honda. The old Ocean Road brings you back through the Mission; the new one, in by Lone Mountain again,
VIII. — Northwestern Suburbs and beyond. — Up Geary, Post or Sutter to Van Ness Avenue ; thence twelve blocks north through Spring Valley, by cars from Broadway west to Harbor View, Pre- sidio and Fort Point. Returning from the Presi- dio, keep towards the Bay ; come around by Black Point, whence, skirting the water-front through five or six rough blocks, you reach the foot of Ma-
204 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
son or Powell street, and find other cars waiting to bring you home.
The routes aboYe suggested, are by no means exhaustive, but will take one to or near the most noted points. If the tourist can have the personal guidance and escort of some well-posted friend, so much the better. In the absence of such friend, or even to accompany him, we respectfully submit our little pocket substitute.
EXCURSION ROUTES.
Undeb this head we suggest different excursions to and through the most noted localities within a limited radius. We have arranged them in the order of their neighborhood to each other, so that one may pass from the end of one to the be- ginning of the next without the necessity of return- ing to San Francisco more than once or twice be- fore completing them all.
I. The Bay Trip.
We suppose you tired of land travel, with its ac- companying jar and dust, and willing to spend a half day in a smooth-sailing steamer on the beauti- ful bay. Go to No. 703 Market street, only nine nine doors east of Bancroft's, to the office of Gen. Ord, commanding the Department of California. He can give you a pass, ordering- the captain of the McPherson, the lively little Government propeller, which daily makes the rounds of the military posts on all the chief islands in the harbor, to take you
2o6 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
to any you may wish to visit, or all, if you desire. No other boat makes these trips. This one goes the rounds twice a day. Unless particularly fond of high wind, and short, choppy, sea-sicky waves, you'd better go in the morning. The steamer leaves Jackson street pier every morning at eight, and eveiy afternoon at three. It takes you first, to
Alcatraz, or Alcatraces,, as the Government spells it over the fortress gate. The first is the singular, and the second the plural, form of a Spanish word meaning a pelican. The island lies a mile and a quarter north of San Francisco, and two and one half miles east of the Golden Gate, whose entrance it commands. It is one third of a mile long, one tenth of a mile wide, rises a hundred and foriy feet above low tide ; a rudely elongated oval in shape, contains about thirty acres, com- posed mainly of solid rock ; is hea\ily foiiified on all sides and crowned by a strong fortress on the toj). Perfect belts of batteries surround the island, mounting some of the heaviest guns yet made in America. It is the key to the foriifications of the harbor.
The island affords no fresh water. All which is used there is carried thither from the main land or caught in cisterns during the rainy season. On the highest point stands a lighthouse of the thii'd or- der, whose light can be seen, on a clear night, twelve miles at sea, outside the Golden Gate.
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The southeast point of the island has a heavy fog- bell, which strikes four times a minute through all dense fogs. If you wish to land and examine the fortress and batteries, you can do so, and stay until the boat returns, usually half or three quarters of an hour, or remain till its afternoon trip, five or six hours later. From Alcatraz, the boat goes a mile and a half to
Angel Island, which lies three miles north of San Francisco, and is the largest and most valuable island in the bay. It is a mile and one third long, three quarters of a mile wide, and seven hundred and seventy-one feet high. It contains about six hundred acres of excellent land, watered by natural springs. On the east side are quarries of blue and brown sand-stone, while good brick-clay is found elsewhere. Three fixed batteries, mounting large and heavy guns, and connected by a military road encircling the island, have been built. The offi- cers' quarters, barracks, and parade ground, are in a shallow, gently-sloping valley, near the landing on the west side,
fieturning, we touch at Alcatraz and thence steam round .to
Yeeba Buena, or Goat Island, two miles east of San Franc-isco, and two and a half from the Oak- land shore, from which the long railroad pier is heading straight for it, with the evident intention of bridging the entire distance at an early day.
2o8 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
The island contains little over half a square mile, principally covered with chapparal, which is here a thicket of low, evergi-een oaks, dwarfed by the salt air and the high winds. The Grovernment also owns and occupies this island — ban-acks, shops, and garrison. The name Goat Island was given from the fact that many vessels coming to this port in early times, from southern ports where goats were cheap, used to bring them for fresh meat on the passage. In the event of a short voyage, a few goats survived, and upon arrival here were turned loose upon this island, as it lay near the anchorage, £ind provided a place from which the goats could not escape. These veteran survivors of the voyage " round the horn," presently increased to such numbers as to originate the name " Goat Island,'' which has, to a sconsiderable degree, suj)planted the earlier and more significant name Yerba Buena. This latter name, having been lifted from the city, ought at least to be allowed to fall and rest upon the island, in perpetuation of those "early days," whose landmarks are fast failing and fading into forgetfulness. •
Now return with the boat to the pie;*, exchange the pure bay-breeze for dust-laden city aii's, and you have completed your bay trip.
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n. The Oakland Trip.
Oakland lies seven miles east of San Francisco. At least tliat is the distance from centre to centre; between the nearest margins the measure would be hardly five miles. A dozen times a day the ferry- boat takes one over ; •fare, 25 cents. Get out at Broadway street, turn to your left, walk four or five blocks, notice the comfortable, roomy api)earance of the city. Two blocks up, observe that neat church on the left, set well back from the street and surrounded by ample grounds and pleasant gardens. That's Kev. Dr. Mooar's Congregational Church. A block or two beyond, look up the broad street to the right, and you see the buildings and grounds now occupied by the State University of California, pending the erection of ampler accommo- dations on the University site at Berkeley, five miles north. Take the horse cars if you like, and ride out north along the "telegraph road." Noble res- idences and beautiful grounds line both sides of the way. A mile out, that large, new, wooden build- ing, crowning the summit of a moderate hill, ac- commodates McClure's Academy, wherein the mil- itary drill reinforces and enlivens the other usual studies of a first-class academy.
A third of a mile further, upon the same side appears the large and finely-proportioned Pacific Female College, lately purchased by the Pacific Theological Seminary.
2IO BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
Still north two miles further, brings us to or in front of the
Deaf, Dumb and Blind Asylum, beautifully lo- cated on the top of a little rise, and commanding a fine view of the Golden Gate, the bay, San Fran- cisco, and its sun-oundings. • The style of the build- ing is a modified Gothic. It is built of a fine- grained, bluish granite, from a neighboring quar- ry. It has a length of one hundred and ninety- two feet front, one hundred and forty-eight feet depth, sixty-two feet height up the three stories and a half to the gable, and one hundred and forty-five feet to the top of the tower. Within, the school- rooms, chapel, halls, dormitories, and bath-rooms, are models of convenient arrangement. Principal, Prof. Wilkinson.
Another mile and we cross a ravine, bear away to the left, and find ourselves on the grounds of the State Universit}' of which only the Mining and Agricultural College Building has begun to take form. The site is the finest imaginable: facing the Golden Gate, the bay and its islands, and the "Golden City" beyond.
Continuing west from the University site, we may go down to the San Pablo road and return to Oakland by a different route. Approaching the cen- tre we may note the new City Hall, delight ourselves with glances down the broad and "tree-ful" streets. Arrived at the Market street station we take the
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cars south, cross the San Antonio creek, through Brooklyn to San Leandro, where we may get out and take another train to
Hayvrard's,
Six miles southeasterly from San Leandro. This is a new, pleasantly-situated and rapidly-growing town, the shipping point for a large agricultural region around. Here see the grain sheds, run out to the Brighton cattle market, the largest in the vState, after which you can take stage six miles to
Aivarado,
And there inspect the salt works, but, more es- pecially, the
Beet Sugar Works, the first erected and oper- ated in California, and regarded as the pioneer of an extensive and valuable industry. From Alvara- do you can keep on, by stage, nine miles to the
Warm Springs, or you can reach these by driving to Niles, or Decoto, and thence ^taking the cars of the San Jose road. These springs are about two miles south of the Old Mission San Jose, in the midst of a pleasant grove of oak and other trees, near the Agua Caliente (hot water) creek. The waters contain lime, sulphur, magnesia, and iron, in various combinations. Summer guests speak highly of the neighboring hotel.
BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
■ From the springs return to the railroad, and riding eleven miles, enter on
rv. The San Jose Trip.
which begins with
San Jose.
The county seat of Santa Clara county ; in popula- tion the fourth city of the State, in character of population one of the first, and in beautiful sur- roundings the gem city. It has a fine situa- tion, in the midst of a beautiful valley, and a climate so healthy that many people affected with lung complaints go thither to live, as a means of cure. Hundreds from San Francisco and the inter- mediate cities, go on excursions to San Jose and vicinity every summer. From whatever direction we approach San Jose, the first object to meet the eye is the lofty dome of the
CouET HorsE. Next to the State Capitol at Sac- ramento, this is the finest building in the State. It stands on the tVest side of First street, fronting St. James Square. Its architecture is Roman Co- rinthian; its dimensions, one hundred feet front, one hundred and forty feet depth ; 'height, fifty-six feet to cornice ; to top of dome, one hundred and fifteen feet. The building is divided into two lofty stories, containing the principal court room, sixty- five feet long, forty-eight feet wide and thirty-eight
EXCURSION ROUTES. 213
feet bigli, with twenty large and elegant rooms for county officials. The view from the dome is alone worth going to San Jose to enjoy. Whatever else you may omit, in and about the city, do not omit this.
The State Normal School Building. Next to the Court House, 'this is the chief object of interest. It occupies the centre of Washington Square, faces west; architecture, Corinthian; length, two hun- dred and eighty-four feet; depth, one hundred and sixty feet; and height to top of cornice, seventy feet; to top of tower, one hundred and fifty-two feet ; number- of stories, four, including basement and mansard roof. The- Normal Hall is ninety-one feet long, sixty-six feet wide, and forty feet high, accommodating nine hundred.
AuzERAis House. Among the finest buildings in the city, and the best hotel south of San Francisco, is the Auzerais House. For first-class hotel accom- modations in all variety, for cordial welcome and courteous service, stop here, and you will not be disappointed ; especially when restfully reclining in the charming park and garden attached to the house. Rates, usual first-class; from $3.00 single day, to $20.00, or even $15.00, a week, with lower rates for longer times.
New York Exchange Hotel. Corner of First and St. John's streets, ranking next to the Auze- rais, affords excellent rooms, with good board and
214 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
attentive service, for from $2.00 a day to $12.00 a week.
If you want to ride through the surrounding valley, as you certainly will, after looking from the court-house dome, go to Church & Wallace, No. 386 First street, who will have a capital team wait- ing for you at the station if you merely drop them a slight hint by telegraph.
Besides the public buildings already named, fine churches, school buildings, business blocks,*private residences and beautiful gardens well repay a stroll through this queen city of a lovely valley.
Ne"w Almaden.
From San Jose, take one of Church & Wallace's teams, and drive thirteen miles southerly to the celebrated
Quicksilver Mine, named for the famous old Al- maden mine, in Spain, with the syllable, *' new," prefixed by way of distinction. This mine is over five hundred feet deep, and employs nearly five hundred men. For permission to enter, apply to J. B. Randol, Esq., manager, residing at New Al- maden. If you prefer to go out by public convey- ance, a stage will take you over any afternoon at 2.30 for $1.50.
Drive back to San Jose: thence, by steam car, horse car or private team, go over three miles north to
. EXCURSION ROUTES. 215
Santa Clara,
A pleasant, qui^t town, clliefly noted for the Santa Clara College (Jesuit), which occupies the site of the old mission, which was really the germ of the town; and the University of the Pacific (Methodist).
Saratoga.
Springs, of course, ten miles southwest of San Jose, from which daily stage carries one over for $1.50. These springs are called the
Congress Springs, frord the resemblance of their water to that of the original and famous springs of that name at the New York Saratoga. They are three shallow springs, excavaied in the sandstone, and tasting very much alike. The water contains sulphates and carbonates of soda, iron and lime, with traces of magnesia. It is very refreshing and healthful; so much so that the guests at the neigh- boring hotel annually consume increasing quanti- ties, besides the thousand bottles sent away daily.
Thence back to San Jose, and, after a good night's rest, set forth on tour
V. Gilroy, and Points South,
and the places for which it is the starting point.
This brisk and lively, neat and thriving town, we beg its pardon, city, is thirty-one miles south- east of San Jose, from which one reaches it by the
2i6 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE
Southern Pacific Railroad for a fare of $2.00. This city is the present terminus of the railroad, and the consequent centre from which radiate the various stage routes to the "lower countr3\" On every hand it presents evidences of business prosperity and rapid growth. Population, over two thousand.
Hot Sj)ring — Fourteen miles northeast of Gil- roy, in a small, rocky ravine opening into Coyote Canon, is this noted sjDring. Its water contains iron, soda, magnesia, sulphur, and baryta, and has a pungent but not unpleasant taste. Throughout the year it preserves a uniform temj^erature of about one hundred and ten degrees. Within a rod of the hot spring are a dozen or more large springs of pure, cold water. T^he curative properties of the water, added to the romantic character of the sur- rounding sceneiy, have caused the erection of a fine hotel, reached by regular stages, over a good road, from Gilroy.
Some twelve miles southwest of Gilroy, one may find, in the
Pa j arc Valley,
A.S quiet and beautiful an agricultural nook as the State 'affords. For a quiet retreat in some hospita- ble farmhouse, with a good chance for small game, for a day or two, this snug valley will decidedly "fill the bill." Its blac*k soil, famous potatoes, and charming little branch canons will dispose a
EXCURSION ROUTES. 217
farmer, or a hunter, or a painter to stay as long as possible. When yon have rusticated as long as you can in the romantic vicinity of Gilroy, and are ready, though unwilling, to go, you can return b}^ the way you came, if you like; but, if time permits, and you wish to see one of the pleasantest sections of the State, you will take stage through Hollister and
San Juan,
A quiet little town, old and quaint, and chiefly notable for its early mission, founded in 1797, to
Monterey,
The first capital of California, and noted, also, as the place where the American flag was first raised in California, by Com. Sloat, July 7th, 1846. Here •one may see plenty of the old adobe houses, with tiled roofs, built in the primitive Mexican style. From Monterey, you may come up the coast, by water, or go back to San Juan, and thence take stage to Watsonville, near the seaward end of the beautiful Pajaro Valley, and come through to
VI. Santa Cruz, and Up tiie Coast. Beyond comparison the most delightful among the smaller towns of the State. In fact it is the occi- dental Newport, the Pacific Nahant, where languid fashion and exhausted business most do congregate. Here land and water meet, present the best beauty
2i8 BANCROFT'S TOURISTS GUIDE.
of each, and combine to proffer new ones impossi- ble to eitber alone. Rid^s, rambles and drives, swims and sails, picnics and chowder-parties, ex- cellent hotel accommodations, and plenty of good comjDany, furnish the material for as varied enjoy- ment, and as much of it, as any one of ordinary constitution can stand. The way of approach which we have mentioned, is comparatively rare. The ■ most noted route is from Santa Clara by daily stage, thirty miles; fare, $3.20.
When you have sufficiently enjoyed Santa Cruz and its beautiful surroundings, you may take the stage any Monday, Wednesday or Friday morning, at eight o'clock, for a
Rids Up the Coast
Eight miles north we pass Laguna Creek, noted* for good fishing, while its vicinity proffers fine shooting, both of which attractions have combined to make it a favorite camping-ground for picnic parties.
Nearly three miles further, William's Landing gives you the first chance to witness " hawser-ship- ping", an ingenious de\ice for getting produce, or any form of merchandise, into a boat, or upon the deck of a vessel when the surf is too rough to per- mit the landing of a boat or the continuance of a pier. Thus art makes a " port" for loading or dis- charging where niature forbids the construction of the ordinaiy facilities.
EXCURSION ROUTES. 219
Three and a half miles brings us to Davenport's Landing, an open roadsi^ad, famous for the longest pier running out into the open ocean, of any place on the Pacific Coast.
Thence two miles, to the beautiful laurel groves and camping -grounds of Scott's Creek. Nearly one hundred and fifty deer have been killed in this neighborhood in one season.
Four miles more, and Frogtown welcomes us. Here David Post proves himself posted in the pro- viding of " good square" meals; in fact, he's just the David who can slay the Goliah of hunger, though, instead of hitting one in the middle of the forehead, he commonly aims about an inch below the nose.
Waddell's Wharf is three miles further. Thence, by Steel's Ranch and White House Ranch to
Pigeon Point.
On the coast, about ten miles from Frogtown, thii'ty-one from Santa Cruz, and seven from Pescadero. This is important to all the neigh- boring inhabitants, because it is their shipping point, where one may witness the ' ' hawser-pier" in its glory; and interesting to the tourist, because it i&a whaling station, and the only one on the coast which he will be likely to see. A colony of Portu- guese do the whaling. They go out in large open boats, six men to a boat, and shoot the harpoon
220 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. ■
into the whale from the harpoon-gun. One may sometimes see a dozen or more whales at once, roll- ing and spouting, or "blowing," in the offing.
Seven-miles further, and our journey ends, or, at least, this particular stage-route ends in
Pescadero.
Ho for Pescadero and the famous Pebble Beach! By rail from San Francisco to San Mateo, twenty miles south, thence by Troy coaches over a new toll road, to Pescadero, thirty miles. Total distance, fifty miles. Time: to San Mateo, one houi*, thence to Pescadero, four and a half hours. Fare: to San Mateo, $1.00, thence to Pescadero, |2.85.
Leaving San Mateo, the road winds through beau- tiful scenery to the summit of the Santa Cruz mountains, which divide the waters of the Bay from those of the ocean. The summit^s eight miles from San Mateo and affords a ^^ew of great extent, embracing the long coast line on the west, white with the surf of breakers, and the broad expanse of the Bay on the east, ^^th the Diablo range of mountains bounding the hoiizon.
From the summit, it is four miles to the old-fash- ioned pueblo of Spanishtown, nestled in a little dell opening out on Half-Moon Bay. Thence four miles to Purissima, another coast town, near which an isolated, rounded peak, called Ball Knob, rises conspicuously above the surrounding hills. From
EXCURSION ROUTES.
Purissima, a drive of twelve miles along, or in sight of, the beach, brings us to our destination.
Pescadero, is the Spanish for fisherman, from pescado, fish. The town is situated near the mouth of Pescadero creek, so named, probably, from the abundance of trout which swarm in its pools and eddys. The village is about a mile from the beach, in a sheltered depression, affording a charming and secluded retreat for pleasure seekers and invalids. The tourist will find good hotel and stabling accom- modations, among the best of which are the Lincoln hotel and stables, under the charge of Capt. Kin- sey.
Prominent among the objects of interest around Pescadero, is the celebrated Pebble Beach, three miles south. Here may be seen ladies, gentlemen, and children, on a warm summer day, down on their hands ailR knees, searching for curious and pretty little pebbles of every hue and shape. The supply is never exhausted, for every storm casts up a new store of treasures. Pebbles of sufficient beauty and value to be set in brooches and rings, have been discovered here.
The Shell Beach is two miles fui-ther on, being five miles from the hotel, and affords a great deal of variety to the beach hunters.
The Moss Beach is twelve miles south, and here the lovers of the most beautiful, fanciful and deli-
222 BANCROhT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
cate combinations of colors and fibres, peculiar to sea mosses, can revel to their hearts' content.
The other objects of interest along the coast, are Sea Lion Kocks, two miles west of the hotel, being, as the name suggests, a large rock coyered with sea lions.
Marble Bath Tubs, five miles south. These are excavations in the solid rock, in the shape of bath tubs, some of natural and some of colossal size.
Pescadero Creek, as above intimated, is a noted trouting stream. A beautiful drive of six miles up the creek, brings us to the Mineral Springs, and two miles further, is a forest of Big Trees, some of which are said to be fifty feet in circumference. In their vicinity are thi-ee shingle mills.
One mile west of the town, is a so-called Indian Mound, from the summit of which a fine ^dew is ob- tained. •
The Butano Falls seven miles distant, on Butano Creek, consists of a succession of cascades, over thirty feet high, located in a deep rapine, sur- rounded by romantic sceneiy.
T'rom Pescadero, we may keep on up the coast, any Monday, Wednesday or Friday morning, through San Gregorio, Purissima, and other quiet little towns, through a beautiful countij, over high hills and bluffs bordering on the beach, and afford- ing' most magnificent ocean views, eighteen miles, to'SiDanishtown, or
EXCURSION ROUTES. 223
Half Moon Bay.
The shipping-point of a fertile region lying in the immediate vicinity, and extending back into branching valleys.
From this place the road leaves the coast, climbs the hills, by a winding and well-cut grade, to a height of eight hundred feet, whence one enjoys a combination of bay, ocean, hill and valley scenery rarely equaled. Upon this summit we pass, for convenience' sake, to
Crystal Springs and San Mateo County,
and, after enjoying four miles of charming views, while winding down the western slopes, we reach
Crystal Springs, where a number of cold, clear springs break through the rocks, in a romantic canon, forming so attractive a spot for summer recreation that a large and fine hotel has been built and well sustained. The neighboring roads are good, the tramps endless", and game encouragingly plentiful. Thence four miles of delightful road brings us to •
San Mateo,
And the iron track again. This is a beautiful little town, made expressly for homes. Sev- eral prominent San Francisco merchants have here hidden their country residences away among oak groves so snugly that one must know exactly
224 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
where theyare, and even then be close upon them, before he would begin to suspect their number, their beauty, and their comfort.
From this place, it is worth one's while to drive or ride four miles down to
Belmont,
Noted as a favorite picnic ground for large Sunday school and society excursions, chiefly from San Francisco, and as the residence of Wm. C. Kalston, Esq., whose country seat, in beauty of location, extent of accommodations, with variety and completeness of appointments, happily com- bines the elegance of a palace with the simplicity and comfoii of a home. Many a distinguished east- em visitor warmly remembers the generous hospi- tality of that *' home behind the hill."
From Belmont, it is but three miles and a quar- ter to
Redwood City,
The county seat of San Mateo county, on a nav- igable slough leading into the bay. Its chief in- dustry is the hauling from the hills and shipping from the wharves the redwood lumber, whose abun- dance has named the town. It has a good hotel — the American House. Four miles south of Ked- wood City,
EXCURSION ROUTES. 225
Meulo Park
Terminates our excursion in this direction. The attractions of this place are the fine residences of San Francisco merchants, surrounded by noble oaks, which, scattered and grouped over a square mile or two, hereabout, have furnished half the name of the place. Nature made it a '' Park ; " man add- ed the ''Menlo."
Here we may take tha cars again, and after a ride of thirty -two miles, first passing, in reverse order, through the three towns just named, with Millbrae, the elegant home of D. O. Mills, Esq., San Bruno, T^welve Mile Farm, Schoolhouse Station and San IV:Rguel, we complete the southern tour around the bay and along the coast, and again commit our- selves for a time to the whirl and dust and bustle of the metropolis.
Having refreshed ourselves with a dash of city life again for a day or two, we are off for the north- ern circuit, including San Rafael, Mt. Tamalpais, San Quentin, State Prison, and Saucelito. No. 9: Petaluma, Santa Rosa, Healdsburg, the Geysers, and Clear Lake, with Sonoma and its vineyards, we complete No. 10 with Vallejo, Mare Island, the U. S. Navy Yard, .Napa, Napa Valley, Oak Knoll and Calistoga. We come back down the valley to Vallejo, whence McCue's stages take us to Benicia, seven and a half miles.
226 BANCROFT' S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
[ For particulars of above three trips, see Ban- croft's Tourist's Guide — Geysers.]
11. Mt. Diablo Trip.
Across the sti-ait of Carquinez from Benicia, and connected with it by a steam ferry, lies
Martinez,
The county seat of Contra Costa county. The town has a picturesque situation, sevei*al pleasant residences, very beautiful surroundings, and a charming climate. The celebrated Alhambra ranch, which has taken several medals as the best cul- tivated farm, yielding the best fruits, and the b^t native wine in the State, lies but a shoi-t distaiftje hence. Five miles back from Maiiinez and the bay, connected with the former by stage and vdth the lat- ter by a navigable creek, stands
Pacheco,
A quiet, pleasant, country town, noted as the shipping point of the broad and fertile agricul- tural fields of the Diablo and San Ramon valleys, lying around and beyond it. The manufactui-e of caiTiages and agricultural implements also conduce to its prosperity and importance. Another daily stage line also connects this town with Oakland.
Eight miles beyond Pacheco, further iji and higher up, is
EXCURSION ROUTES. 227
Clayton,
The largest and most romanticaUy situated town in this part of the State, and in the latter par- ticular, surpassed by few on the coast. Occu- pying an elevated bench, or plateau, it com- mands fine views, and having many wide-spread- ing oaks scattered through and around, it posesses much intrinsic beauty. Mr. Clayton, whose name the town has taken, has a vineyard of nearly forty thousand vines, which, though never irrigated, are vigorous and prolific. *He sends his excellent grapes directly to San Francisco, for the immedi- ate market which they are sure to command, and thus realizes a greater profit than by making them into wine. Other vineyards and orchards in this vicinity have over one hundred thousand vines, and nearly forty thousand fruit trees. Clayton is the usual point of departure for the ascent of
Mount Diablo,
Three thousand eight hundred and seventy-six feet high, and christened with its infernal ap- pellation because, like its satanic prototype, it seldom lets men out of its sight. The best time to climb the mountain is early in the morning — the earlier the better. If one can stand on the summit at sunrise he will receive the most ample reward for his early rising. The distance from Clayton up
228 BANCROFT'S TOURISTS GUIDE.
is eight miles; tlie time occupied by a comfortable ascent is a little over two lioui-s. If there are ladies, or persons unused to riding and climbing, the party should allow a good three hours. The Clayton livery stable furnishes trained saddle horses for $2.50 a day. The expense of a guide, who fur- nishes his own horse, is $4.00 for the trip, which, of course, as in Yosemite, is usually divided among the party. Though not absolutely necessary to • employ a guide, it is decidedly safer and better, especially if the party includes ladies, as the trail is in some places difficult, and even dangerous to strangers. The first four miles south from Clay- ton a good carriage-road follows the course of a stream through a deep canon. Over this part, ladies unused to the saddle, and desiring to avoid unnecessary fatigue, would better ride on wheels. At the end of this road, n,ear a farm-house, the tourist turns to the right, and follows a cut trail westerly to Deer Flat, where are two huts and a spring. Beyond Deer Flat, the trail runs south- easterly to the top of a ridge in sight of the flat below, and thence lies along the top of this ridge, two and a half miles to the summit, where, for the first time in his life, probably, the traveler may get the deril f aMy under his feet — or at least the devil's mountain.
In the opinion of most tourists, this peak com- mands a more extensive, varied', and beautiful pros-
*!'
EXCURSION ROUTES. 229
pect than any equal elevation in the world. The mountain has two peaks, lying in a northeast and southwest line, nearly three miles apart. The southwestern one is the higher, and possesses sci- entific or topographical interest, from the fact that the State Survey made it one of the three " initial points," from which they ran the " base lines" and "meridian lines," from which or by which the townships and sections are reckoned and located in all extensive conveyances of land. This mountain has an additional claim to its sulphurous surname, from the fact that it is supposed to have been, formerly, a volc^o.
Looking east upon a clear day, or with the good field glass which some one of the party has thought- fully provided, you may see the Pacific Ocean, sometimes the Farallone Islands, San Francisco, the bay, the Golden Gate, Mt. Tamalpais, the Pet- aluma, Sonoma and Napa Valleys, San Pablo and Suisun Bays, Vallejo, Navy Yard, Benicia, the Sac- ramento and San Joaquin Yaileys, with the tortu- ous windings of their serpentine rivers, creeks and sloughs, Stockton and Sacramento cities, the Ma- rysville Buttes, and the snow-capped Sierras be- yond all; while away to the southwest the quiet Santa Clara valley completes the magnificent sweep of the glorious panorama, unrolled for more than a hundred miles around.
If any of the party feel like sermonizing, the text
230 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
will readily occur to you : ' ' Then the Devil' taketh him up into an exceeding high mountain, and showeth him all the kingdoms of the world, and the glory of them, and saith unto him: ' All these things will I give thee if thou wilt fall down and worship me," As for his proposition to *' fall down," w^e have only to remark, "Beloved hearers ! don't you do it, for the devil or any other man;" you'd break your necks as sure as you tried it. Better sit dow^n in one of the sheltered nooks in the lee below the summit, eat your lunch and prepare for the de- scent.
We may easily return to Clayton in time to ^isit the *
Black Diamond Coal Mines,
At Noi-tonville, six miles distant, over a good road, through a rugged, mountainous and picturesque region. The tunnels enter the northeast side of the mountain, descend nearly three hundred feet southwesterly, whence one level follows a three- foot-thick seam, a good half mile northw^esterly. Two main seams are worked at present, one four feet and the other about three feet thick. They dip easterly, or northeasterly. The mine is very neat, and even cleanly, for a coal mine, so that one could wear down an ordinary suit without harmful soiling.
The railroad from the mine to the pier, five miles and a half below, whither iron cars, propelled by
.*
EXCURSION ROUTES. 23 1
gravity, can aarry three thousand tons per day, is chiefly remarkable for its unusual grade down the first mile and a half, through which the descent is two hundred and seventy-four feet to the mile. To meet this unusual, but unavoidable necessity, heavy locomotives, of peculiar design and construction, were invented and built at San Francisco. They weigh twenty tons, have three pairs of thirty-six- inch driving wheels, with complex and powerful brakes for the enormous friction necessary.
From these mines one may descend by the rail- road already described, to New York Landing, whence the regular Stockton steamer will transport him thither, or return him to San Francisco, the tourist's grand base of supplies, and point of de- parture for nearly all the more notable excursions about the State and the coast.
12. Sacramento, Stockton, and the Lakes.
To the eleven tours already detailed, one may, or even must, add a twelfth, which is separated from the t)thers, and added, in conclusion, because it consists of cities and places lying on or near the great overland route by which every tourist will be almost certain to enter or leave the State ; in most cases, both. These are the capital city, Sacramen- to ; the San Joaquin county seat, Stockton ; with Lake Tahoe and Donner lake. One may stop to see these as he comes or goes, or may make them
232 BANCROFT'S TOURISTS GUIDE,
the objects of a special excursion, of ^ich the two lakes, especially Tahoe, are notably worthy.
Sacramento.
At the time of the American occupation of Cal- ifornia, and for some time previous, the present site of this city was called the " Embarcadero ; " that is, in Si)anish, simply " the wharf, or the landing-place," though it strictly means the ship- ping-place.
Gen. Jno. A. Sutter came from New Mexico and settled here in August, 1839. The next year the Mexican Government granted him the land on which he had "located." ' He accordingly built a fort and gave himself to stock raising, agriculture, and trade. Thenceforward for several years the place was known only as " Sutter's Fort." In July, 1845, Gen. Sutter engaged the service of Jas. W. Marshall, as a sort of agent, or manager. This man became the discoverer of gold in the following accidental manner: In September, 1847, he went up some fifty miles from the fort, upon the south fork of the American river, to construct a sawmill, which, in due time, with one single, most fortu- nate blunder, he accomplished. The blunder was this : when the water, was let on, the tail-race proved too naiTow and too shallow. To widen and deepen it in the quickest and cheapest way, he let through a strong current of water, which swept a
EXCURSION ROUTER. 233
mass of mud and gravel down to and beyond the lower end.
January 19th, 1848, the birth-day of the "Gold- en Age " in California, Marshall noticed several yellowish particles shining out from this mud and gravel. He was, naturally, curious enough to col- lect and examine them. He called five carpenters who were at work on the mill, to join their judg- ments with his. They talked over the possibility of its being gold, but seem to have thought it so little probable J that they quietly returned to their usual work. Among the larger pieces of "yellow stuff'' , which Marshall picked up that day, was a pebble weighing six * pennyweights and eleven grains. He gave it to the. nearest housekeeper, Mrs. Weimer, and asked her to boil it in saleratus water and see what would come of it. She was making soap at the time, and thinking the lye would proye stronger than simple saleratus water, she immediately pitched it into the soaj) kettle, from which it was fished oat the next day, and found all the brighter for its long boiling.
Two weeks later, Marshall brought the speci- mens down to the fort and gave them to Sutter to have them tested. Before the General had quite made up his mind as to whether they were certain- ly gold or not, he went up to the mill, and, with Marshall, made a treaty with the Indians, buying their titles to all the surrounding country. The
234 BANCROI^T'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
little cii'cle that knew it, tried to keep tlie matter secret, but it soon leaked out, and though not sure of its real nature, several began to hunt the yellow stuff that might prove the king of metals.
The next month, Febi-uary, one of the party car- ried some of the dust down to Yerba Buena (San Francisco). Here he providentially met Isaac Humphrey, an old Georgia gold miner, who, upon his first look at the specimens, said they were gold, and that the diggings must be rich. He tried to persuade some of his friends to go up to the mill with him, but they thought it only a crazy expedi- tion, and let him go alone. Mr. Humphrey reached the mill March 7th. Only a few were lazily hunt- ing for gold; there was no excitement; the most of the men were working in the mill as usual. Next day he began " prospecting," and quickly satisfied himself that he had " struck it rich." He returned to the mill, made a " rocker," and immediately commenced placer mining in dead earnest.
A few days later, Baptiste, a Frenchman, who had mined in Mexico, left the lumber he was saw- ing for Sutter, at Weber's, ten miles east of Colo- ma, and came over to the mill. He agreed with Humphrey that the region was rich, furnished him- self with rocker and pan, and forthwith began to develop the shining wealth, beside which mills, lumber, ranches, flocks, and crops were of small account. So these two men, Humphrey and Bap-
EXCURSION ROUTES. 235
tiste, became tlie pioneer gold-miners of California, and the first practical teachers of placer mining. The lumbermen around* crowded in to see how they did it. The process was simple, the teachers were obliging, the lesson easy, the result sure and speedy wealth.
They soon located ''claims" all about, began to hoard their " piles," and Sutter's Fort, as the place through ^hich all new comers passed, began a rapid growth, which proved the origin and nucleus of the present capital of California.
The Sacramento of to-day stands on the east bank of the Sacramento Kiver, about one mile below the junction of the American River, and at the head of tide navigation.
Ne:5:t to San Francisco, it is the largest city in the State, having a population of twenty thousand.
It owes its importance chiefly to four things :
1st. Its central position, in the midst of the fin- est agricultural region of the State.
2d. Its situation at the head of tide water on the largest river of the State.
3d. It is the great railroad centre. Four leading roads terminate there.
4th. It is the political capital, having become so in 1854.
The city was originally built on ground so low and level that the heavy floods have twice broken through the levee and nearly destroyed the town.
236 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
The two great floods were tliose of 1851-2 and 1861-2. Thus, by sheer necessity of self-preserva- tion, the inhabitants have teen compelled to raise the grade of all the streets, and, in fact, of almost the whole city, nearly ten feet above the original level.
Sacramento has fine schools and churches, while the gardens^ and shinibbery about the houses, com- bined with the trees along the streets,* give it a most refreshing, home-like, and attractive appear- ance. Beyond the depots, immense foundries and machine shops of the Central Pacific railroad, the city presents the single great attraction of the
State Capitol, an immense building occupying the centre of four blocks, bounded by L and N streets on the north and south, and by Twelfth and Tenth streets on the east and west. These four blocks were a gift from the city to the State. The building faces west, fronting three hundred and twenty feet on Tenth street, while its two wings run back along L and N streets, one hundred and sixty-four feet upon each . Its height is eighty feet, divided into three lofty stories. The lower story is granite ; those above, brick. The main entrance is approached by granite steps, twenty-fi.ve feet high and eighty feet wide. The style of architecture is composite — the Roman Corinthian. The building was begun ten years ago, has been steadily carried on since, and will probably require two or three years longer for its full completion.
EXCURSION ROUTES. 237
The Interior. — Entering tlie vestibule, we find ourselves in a hall twenty feet deep, seventy-three feet wide, an^ having broad stairs on either hand. • From the vestibule a broad and high-arched door- way, admits us to the
Eotunda, seventy-two feet in diameter, and ris- ing through the height of the first dome. In the wall, between the openings of the different broad halls, are four niches to be filled by statues of "Washington, Lincoln, a pioneer miner, and a pio- neer hunter, one half larger than life. Above these niches and the hall entrances, will be eight panels, each thirteen feet by six, with stucco frames for frescoes. Directly over each of these will be a round panel for similar purposes, and with similar ornamentation. Above these circular panels, will be a row of thirteen sunken panels, each thirteen by eight and a half feet, to be filled with pictures ; and over these, still higher up, a tier of frames, each ten by sixteen feet, numbering sixteen in all, and also intended for paintings. The frames of these last extend clear to the bottom of the sky- light, and are to be painted red, white and blue, successively, thus 2^resenting from below a huge sixteen pointed star of the national colors.
The First Story is twenty-one and a half feet high. From the right of the rotunda, a hall six- teen feet wide, leads south through the centre of that wing. First, on the right, are the Secretary of
238 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
State's two rooms, twenty-nine feet wide, and hav- ing a united length of forty-seven feet, elegantly finished and furnished. Beyond these, in the south- west corner, is a reception, or committee room, twenty-seven by thirty, while the other corner has a like space divided into two rooms for similar pur- poses. Opposite the Secretary's is the "Chief Jus- tice's room. As we may not have time to descend to and describe the lower or ground floor, we may here say that its space is mainly occupied by the Judges of the Supreme Court. In the north wing we have a similar arrangement of rooms, and to be occupied by the State Treasurer, Controller, Attor- ney-General, Board of Education, besides two yet unassigned.
Keturning to the rotunda, and going east, we enter the
Supreme Court Room, occupying a circular or ellipsoidal projection built out from the east side of the building between the two wings. The room is fifty-eight by forty-six feet, lofty and well-lighted. Thence, crossing a hall on the southwest, one en- ters the Supreme Court Library Room, twenty-eight by thirty-three feet, and containing four thousand volumes.
The Second Floor has a height of twenty feet clear, with halls like those below. Along the cen- tral j)ortion of the main hall the rooms on eitlier side are the Public Law Library Room, two Com-»
EXCURSION ROUTES. 239
mittee rooms on eacli side of the Library, two rooms for the Sergeants-at-Arms of the Assembly and the Senate, and eight Committee Booms. Occupying the east half of the south wing is the Senate chamber, while the Assembl}^ chamber has the cor- responding location in the north wing, and the State Library occupies the circular projection on the east side immediately over the Supreme Court Koom already described. Between the
Senate Chamber and the hall swing a pair of magnificent double doors of solid black walnut, in- closing beautiful panels of California laurel-wood, bordered by elaborate carving. These doors are thirteen feet high by seven feet wide, and six inches thick, and for massive elegance and costli- ness, are among the noticeable features of the Cap- itol. The Chamber itself is sixty-two feet deep, seventy-two feet wide, and forty-six feet high. A continuous gallery, supported by eight Corinthian columns, extends across the west side, and throws a wing some distance forward on both the north and south. These columns are copied from those in portico of Septimus Severus at Kome. Twenty windows light the room by day, and two large gilt and crystal chandeliers by night. The President's desk occupies a recess in the centre of the east side. Above the desk, large gold letters present the motto, '■' Senatoris est civitatis libertatem tueri." A full-length portrait of Washington hangs above this
240 BAXCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
motto. Tlie senators' desks are of black walnut, of large size, and handsome pattern. A capacious arm-chair, upholstered with crimson plush velvet, accompanies each desk.
The Assembly Chamber occupies the eastern por- tion of the north wing. It measures ten feet more each way than the Senate Chamber; has the same style of architecture, and closely resembles that room in its general finish and furnishing, except that the desks and chairs are twice as numerous; the senators numbeiing forty, the assemblj^men, eighty. The upholstering of the chairs of this room is of green velvet. Yery rich and heavy car- pets of elegant patterns cover the floors of both rooms. The motto of this hall is, •' Legislatorum est justas leges condere." Over the motto hangs a life-size portrait of General Sutter, the founder of the city. Still above the portrait, in a sort of arched niche, is a statue of Minerva, having a horn of plen- ty on her right and a California bear upon her left. A like statue similarly flanked, occupies the corres- ponding position in the Senate Chamber.
The State Librar3^ — The State Library occupies the circular or elipsoidal projection midway between the north and south wings on the east side of the building, immediately over the Supreme Court rooms. The Library Room is fifty-eight feet long by forty-six feet wide, and forty-six feet high. Its plan is unique. In the centre, a rotunda, rising
EXCURSION ROUTES, 241
straight up through, is crowned by a dome, whose top is sixty-three feet above the floor. A broad, circular galleiy divides the room into two stories, each of which is itself again divided into two by a sub-gallery. The circular space around the rotun- da, contains nine equal alcoves. The peculiar out- line produces a singular, and somewhat startling effect, which is, that when standing in the centre of this library, one cannot see a single book, al- though the shelves around him contain nearly thirty thousand volumes. Convenient stairs give easy access to galleries and sub-galleries; all of which are arranged in the same manner. Counting the different levels from which ascend the successive tiers of radial shelving, the libraiy room is four stories high. The dome rests on twelve Corinthian columns, similar to those in the Senate and Assem- bly chambers, already described. Still above the li- brary, surrounding the rotunda, is a large circular room, devoted to the storage of papers, pamphlets, .and congressional reports.
The Third Floor is eighteen feet high in the clear, and is divided into seventeen committee rooms, besides a large hall in the southwest corner of the south wing, which is provided for a cabinet and museum.
The Dome. — Over the inner dome, already built, will be erected the main or outer dome, one hun- dred feet higher, supported on massive iron col-
242 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
umns, and surmounted by Powers' statue of Cali- fornia, in ii'on.
The G-rounds about the building, covering the four- blocks donated by the city, will be terraced and sodded, set with native trees, beautiful flower plots, traverbed by graveled walks, inclosed by a massive and costly fence, and entered by gateways at the corners and at the centres of each side.
Over $1,000,000, in gold coin, has already been expended upon it, and it is more than "probable that the better part of another million will follow the first, before Californians will witness the com- pletion of their costly capitol, which is, however, as it should be, by far the noblest building west ^ the Mississippi.
Although still unfinished, the Legislature took formal possession of the building on Monday, Dec. 6th, 1869. The Secretary of State, State Treasurer, Supreme Judges, and several other State officials, already occupy the apartments assigned to them.
Other Buildings. — The new Odd Fellows' Hall, the Savings Bank Building, two or three of the churches, the residence of Chas. Crocker, and those of several other prominent gentlemen, equal the finest in the State.
Hotels. — The Golden Eagle and the Orleans are the begt. The former is newer, stands nearer the Capitol, and accommodates the legislators. The latter is newly and elegantly furnished and is the
EXCURSION ROUTES. » 243
great haunt of the railroad men. As for tables and bedSj either will furnish you the best in the city. Each runs free coaches from the depots and wharves. View of the City. — No neighboring natural emi- nence affords any point of sight worth noting. From the Capitol dome, however, one has a view of the tree-embowered city, and the far-reaching, fertile valley, the gracefully winding, tree-bordered river, and the distant, snow-capped mountains, which form a panorama of beauty, shut in by gTan- deur, rarely to be enjoyed from as slight an eleva- tion.
Stockton.
• A trifle over one third of the way down from Sa- cramento to San Francisco, lies Stockton, the county seat of San Joaquin County, and in popula- tion, the fourth city of the State. It stands on both banks of a deep and wide slough of the same name, navigable the year round, and opening into the San Joaquin river, three miles west of the city. It was named in compliment to Commodore Stock- ton, in honorable recognition of his prominent ser- vices in the conquest of the State.
No city in California has had a more gradual, steady and healthful growth. For many years it was the point of departure and the centre of trade for several of the richest mining regions, of which business it still retains, directly or indirectly, a full
244 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
proportion. Its great source of prosperity and of wealth, however, is the immense grain-producing country, the famous San Joaquin valley, which sur- rounds it.
Last year, 1870, Stockton exported 94,152,000 lbs., nearly 50,000 tons, of wheat; and 3,160,500 lbs. of wool; 53,586 tons of hay, and nearly 160 tons of butter and cheese.
The Abtesian Well. — One of the points of vital interest to the inhabitants, if not to every tourist, is the great well, one thousand and two feet deep, seven inches in diameter, and discharging three hundred and sixty thousand gallons daily.
The Insane Asylum. — The chief architectural at- tractions of Stockton are the two large and fine buildings of the State Insane Asylum, occupying most extensive, beautifully planned, and tastefully kejit grounds, in the northern part of the city. The institution was opened in 1853, and has now about eleven hundred patients in care. It is the most expensive public institution yet completed in the State, having cost nearly one million dollars. It is open to visitors at stated hours, except the female dejDartment, through which gentlemen are not allowed to pass, unless by sjDCcial permission of, or in company with, the attendant physician. Superintendent and Resident Physician, Dr. G. A. Shurtleff.
EXCURSION ROUTES. 245
Hotels. — Of the six or eight hotels in the city, only two rank as first-class. The Yosemite House is emphatically (he tourist's home. The moment you step upon the depot platform, or the steam- boat pier, look out for the bluest eye, the fairest hair, and the most attractive face in the crowd, and ride home with their owner. He's one of the three McBean brothers, whose excellent management has made the Yosemite House so wddely known and so increasingly popular. The Grand Hotel is the other first-class house, and is conducted upon the restaurant plan.
Routes and Teams. — If you want to know where to go and how to get there, ask for Robert C. Pat- ten, or address him through box 91, Stockton P. O., and he'll make any desired arrangements for you, in the kindest way, the promptest time, and at the lowest rate.
From Stockton toward Oakland.
The Western Pacific railroad takes us first, to
Lathrop,
Nine miles west of Stockton. Here is the junction of the Visalia division of the Central Pacific rail- road now open to
Modesto,
Twenty-one miles south, on the Tuolumne river. This is one of the present points of departure for the
246 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
Calaveras Big Trees and the Yoseniite Valley, whith- er stages dejDart daily.
Returning to Lathrop and continuing west about one mile thence, we cross the
San Joaquin River,
Broad, shallow and muddy, bordered by level reach- es of tule lands, so low that a few feet rise in the river overflows thousands of acres, and makes the river sometimes nearly six miles wide. A necessi- ty, resulting from this overflow, is the San Joaquin Bridge, which not only spans the permanent bed of the roily stream, but extends several miles across the low tule lands, whose submergence would oth- erwise completely stop all travel, except by swim- ming, w^ading, boating or flying.
Seven miles from Lathrop, we come to
Banta's,
A small freight and passenger station, whence tri- weekly stages connect for Hill's FeiTy, forty miles. Five miles further, through a fine agi'icultui'al country, brings us to
Ellis,
A small village clustered round the usual saloons and restaurants ; whence six miles more and we reach
EXCURSION ROUTES. 247
Midway,
"Whose name will never be true till either San Francisco or Sacramento moves six miles nearer the other.
Seven and a half miles further, we suddenly plunge into a well-cut tunnel, about six hundred feet long, whose chief peculiarity is that we enter it in one county and leave it in another. It re- ceives us in San Joaquin county, carries us under the boundary, and ushers us into Alameda county. Just after coming out from the tunnel, we whirl by the little flag station Altamont, whence we begin to enter upon the down grade, and roll through the
Liveriuore Pass,
Which is either a valley or a hill, according to whether one reckons downward from the higher summits on either side, or upward from the lower level at either end. Eight miles from Altamont we stop at
Livermore,
A rapidly-growing village in the beautiful Liver- more Yalley, forty-seven miles from San Francisco. From this station down to
Pleasanton, Is only six miles, and they are pleasant 'uns indeed.
248 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
A thriving town, finely situated and beautifully suiTOunded.
Thence rolling rapidly down the tortuous track, we skirt along the bases of high hills, follow the windings of a charming little narrow valley, rum- bling through two or three strong frame bridges, for twelve miles, when
Niles,
And its junction, with " change cars for San Jose," notify us that we have fairly passed the hills, and entered upon the fertile plains which gently slope from the foothills to the bay, whose southern por- tion is our first glimpse of Pacific salt water. At Niles we can take the San Jose cars, and go round, through that city, to San Francisco, all the way by land, if we particularly desire to accomplish the whole transit on wheels. If we do that, we shall travel forty miles further than by keeping straight on from Niles through
Decoto,
which is but two miles. Decoto is one of the "go- ing to be" towns. At present it exists chiefly in the future tense. Nine miles still between the rol- ling foothills on the right and the almost level plains stretching awaybayward, brings us to
A
EXCURSION ROUTES. 249
San Lorenzo,
Which presents nothing of special note beyond a quiet, restful-looking town, quite refreshing to the tired and dusty tourist. Thence four miles, and
San Leandro,
Town and creek, arrest our train for sixty seconds, The court house, jail, a large agricultural imple- ment factory, with several stores, one or two hotels and a newspaper, invest this pleasant town with all the dignity of a comfortable county seat. Seven miles from San Leandro, is
Brooklyn,
A thriving, go-ahead town of two thousand inhabi- tants nights, and about seventeen hundred by day, when a good seventh of its denizens are away at their business in San Francisco. . Thence a shoi-t two miles, and we stop again at
Oakland,
The tree-embowered city named by nature, and chosen by man for charming homes and quiet halls of learning.
Moving once more, and for the last time, we steam by the hedges, gardens, cottages and man- sions along the southwest suburb, and roll slowly out two miles along a strongly built pier, over the
250 BANCROhT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
shallow margin of the bay, or the undisguised flats, according to the tide, and " down brakes" for good on the last rails of the great iron way across the continent, and over the waters of another ocean. An elegant ferry-boat, ''El Capitan," quickly re- ceives us, and, in fifteen minutes, the San Francis- co pier welcomes us to the Occidental metropolis, and our joiu'ney is done. Turn, now, to the para- graph on hacks and hotels; let one take you to the other, bathe, eat and sleep, and next morning, hunt up the " Short Excui-sions in and about San Francisco," and devote yourself to cultivating the Pacific metropolis.
Lake Tahoe.
This beautiful mountain lake lies along the east- em margins of Placer and El Dorado counties. The State line between California and Nevada parses through it, lengthwise, from north to south. We reach it by stage from the Central Pacific railroad at Truckee, in three hours, oyer a variable road, through sceneiy often beautiful, and for the extrav- agant fare of $3.00.
The lake is one mile and a quarter above the sea level. It is itself a little inland sea, thirty miles long, from eight to fifteen wide, and in places nearly two thousand feet deep. Its water is clear as crystal, cold as the melting ice and snows which feed it, and the purest known upon the continent.
EXCURSION RO UTES. 25 1
Floating upon its surface, and looking down through its water, ©ne can easily count the pebbles and stones along its gravelly bottom at the depth of sixty feet. One seems suspended between two firmaments of ether, with birds flying above and fish swimming below. And such trout! swimming forty feet beneath you, and f>lainly visible in all their quick and graceful motions between you and the rocky bottom.
From the water's edge, grassy slopes, pebbly beaches, rocky shores and precipitous bluffs lead the ej'^e up through tree-dotted ravines, over forest- crowned hills to snow-clad mountains, white-headed with age, and ermine-mantled upon their tremend- ous shoulders.
A small steamer or two ply upon the lake — plenty of good boats await one, and excellent hotels accommodate transient guests,* or more j^er- manent boarders.
From Tahoe, back to Truckee, by stage, cross the railroad, and ride out two miles to
Donner Lake,
Smaller, but hardly less beautiful than that just left. Its ^reat beauty in itself, the wild and ro- mantic surrounding scenery, its ease of access and its good hotel, make it a popular summer resort. The tragical circumstances, seldom equaled in the pioneer history of any country, which gave the
252 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
name to this lake, may be found graphically nar- nated in* the "Overland Monthly'' for July, 1870. If you visit these charming lakes on your journey to the State you could not have a grander intro- duction to its scenes of vronder and beauty ; if you take them on your return east, you could not possi- bly carry away more delicious memories of lovelier spots. Whether they bid you "welcome" or " farewell," you will leave them with regi-et, recall them with delight, and long to return and linger among their matchless charms.
COMPLETE INDEX.
Abbreviations.— S. F. San Francisco. Sac. Sacramento. Jos6. St. Stockton. Yo. Tosemite.
S. J. San
Alabaster Cave 77
Alameda 196
Ferry 196
Alcatraz Island 196-206
Alhambra Theatre, S. F. . 123
Alinaden Mine 214
Alta California Bldg., S.F.157
Alvarado 211
American Ex. Hotel, S. F.120
Angel Island 196-207
Approaches to S. F 107
Art Gallery 133
Artesian Well, St 244
Asylums, S. F 167-8
Auzerais House, S. J. . . .213
Baggage Express, S. F.'. .115
Bancroft's 157-172-174
Bankof Cal., S. F 154
Banta's 246
Baseball Grounds 130
Baths 122
Bay Trips '205-
Bay View Eoad — Track —
House 147-192
Beer Cellars 124
Beet Sugar Works 211
Belmont 224
Bernal Heights, S. F. ...183
Big Trees 57
Billiards, S. F 127
Black Diamond Coal Co.
Mine 189-230
Black Point 196
Bonita Point 195
Bower Cave 72
Bowling Salo ns, S. F...127 Bridal Veil Fall, Yo. ... 28
Brief Trips, S.F 197
Broderick Mt 40
Brooklyn 249
Brooklyn Hotel, S. F. . . .120 Business Buildings and
Blocks, S.F.... 157-159 Butchertown 192
Calaveras Big Trees 52
Central P. K. E. Co 190
California Street, S. F. . .143 " Hill, S.F. 181
California Theatre 123
Capitol, Sac 236
Cathedral Kocks 30
Spires 30
Chinese Quarter, S.F. . . 197
Theatres 123
Churches, S. F 161
Circuit of S.F 189
254
BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
PAGE.
City Gardens 140
Citv and Co. Buildings,
"S. F 150-153
Clay Street HiU 180
Clayton 227
Cliff Hovse— Eoad . . 145-199
Cloud's Rest 41
Colleges, S. F 169-171
Congress Springs 215
Conveyances, S. F 113
Corporation Buildings,
S. F 153-157
Cosmopolitan Hotel, S.F.119
Court House, S.J 213
Cricket Grounds, S. F. . . 130 Crystal Chapel 85
" Springs 223
Custom House, S. F 149
Dance HaUs, S. F 124
Dashaways 126
Davenport's Landing. . . .219 Deaf and Dumb Asylum,
Berkeley 210
Decoto 248
Deep Cut, S. F 191
Denman School 171
Donner Lake 252
Donohoe Building 157
Drives, S. F 145
Dry Dock 192
Dungeon of Enchantment 82
ElCapitan 48
EUis 246
Engine Houses, S. F 152
Excursion Routes 205
FarraUones 194
Ferries 196
Fire Department, S. F.. .153 Fissure, The, Yo 31
PAGE.
Footing it 187
Fort Point 194
Frogto^sTi 219
Gardens, S. F 130
Gas Works, S. F 190
Gilroy 215
Glacier Rock 33
Glass Works 191
Goat Island 207
Gold, Discovery of 233
Golden Gate 195
Grand Hotel 117
Gymnasiums, S. F 128
Half Dome 41
Halls, S. F 125
Harpending's Block 157
Hayward's 211
Horse Cars, S. F 184
Hospitals, S. F 167-190
Hotels, S. F 116
How to get about 184
Hunter's Point 192
Illillouette Fall 35
Industrial School 152
Italian Fishing Fleet ... .191
Jail, S. F 151
Kachoomah Fall 38
Kimball Car Manufactory. 159
Lagoon, The 193
Laguna Creek 218
.Lake Honda 193
Lake Merced 193
Lathrop 275
Libraries, S. F 148
Light House, Fort Point. 193
Lime Point 195
Lincoln School 171
INDEX.
255
PAGE.
Livermore 247
Livery Stables 187
Lodging-houses, S. F. . . . 121
Lone Mountain 181
Long Bridge, S. P 191
Lumber Yards, S. F 189
Maguire's Opera House .123 Manufactories, S. F.. 159-161
Marine Hospital 150
Mariposa Big Trees 57
Marshall, Jas. W 232
Martinez 226
Masonic Temple, S. F. . . 156
Mechanics' Institute 158
' ' Pavilion 155
Melodeons, S. F 124
Menageries 140
Menlo Park 225
Mercantile Library, S, F.154
Merchants' Exchange 154
Metropolitan Theatre, S.F. 123
Midway 247
Milbrae 225
Mint 149
Mirror Lake 42
Mission Bay Peaks
Rocks 182-190
Modesto 245
Monterey 217
Mountain Lake 195
Mt. Broderiek 40
Mt. Diablo 226-227
Mt. Starr King 40
Museums, S.F 124
Nevada FaU 38
New Almaden 214
New York Exchange Hotel,
S.J 213
Niles 248
North Beach 196
PAGE.
North Dome 43.
" Point 196
Oakland 20^249
«' Ferry 196
Ocean House — Eoad . 146-193
" Eace Course 193
Odd Fellows' Hall, S. F. .156
Pacheco 226
Pacific Bank, S.F 193
P.M. S. S. Co 190
Pacific Boiling Mill . 160-191
Pajaro Valley 216
Palace Car 159
Parks, S. F 130
Pescadero 220
Creek 222
Pigeon Point 219
Pioneers, Society of 153
Pioneer Woolen 'Mills . . , 196
Pleasanton 247
Point Bonita 195
" Lobos 194
Points of Observation . . 174
Pompompasas 47
Post-office, S.F 148
Potrero 191
Presidio 195
Private Eesidences, S. F.174 Promenades, S. F. . .141-144 Pulpit, The 87
Eedwood City 224
Eestaurants, S.F 121
Eincon Hill 181
Point 190
Eope Walk, S. F 191
Eoyal Arches, Yo 44
Eussian Hill 180
Sacramento 231-2
San Bruno Eoad 192
256
BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE.
PAGE.
SA^- Feancisco 95-201
Apijroaches 107
ftaths 122
Buildings — Business . . 157 Public... 148
Chinese Quarter 197
Churches 161
Colleges 169
Conveyances 113
Drives 145
Excursions about City . 197
Gvmnasiums 128
HaUs 125
Hills 174
Historical Sketch 95
Horse Cars 184
Hospitals, Asylums, etc. 167
Hotels ]16
How to get about 184
Libraries 148
Lodging Houses 121
Manufactories 159
Melodeons 124
Museums 124
Places of Amusement . 122
Plan of City 102
Private Residences. . . .174
Promenades 141
Bestaurants 121
Schools 171
Sea Wall 196
Situation and Extent . . 99
Skating Rinks 130
Squares and Parks .... 141 Suburbs and Vicinity . . 188
Theatres 122
San Joaquin River 246
San Jose— Trip 212
San Juan 217
San Leandro 249
San Lorenzo 249
Sau Mateo.... 223
PAGE.
San Quentin 196
Santa Clara 215
Santa Cruz 217
Saratoga 215
Saucelito 196
Scott's Creek 219
Sea Wall 196
Seal Rocks 194
Sentinel Dome 32
Sentinel Rock 31
Ship Yards, S. F 161
Shot Tower, S. F 161
Skating Rinks, S. F 130
South San Francisco .... 192 State Normal School, S.J.213
State University 210
Sugar Refineries 161
Sutter, Gen. Jno. A 232
Tahoe, Lake 250
Telegraph Hill 174
Tenaya Canon 41
Lake 43
Three Brothers 47
Tooloolweack Fall 36
Tutochahnuldh 48
VaUejo 196
Vernal Fall 35
Visitacion Point and Val.192
WaddeU's Wharf 219
Warm Springs 211
Washington Colimin 44
Woodward's Gardens. 130-140
YOSEMITE 24-48
For Routes, Conveyances, Time, Hotels, Guides, . Horses, Outfit, and Ex- penses see Introdvi^Aioy^.
INDEX TO ADVERTISEES.
Big Trkes, Calaveras Co.,
Sperry & Perry, - - xliii
Central Pac. R. R.
Yosemite route - - xv
Geysers.
Great Geyser Springs, J. C. Susenbeth - - - xvi
GiLROY.
Hanna House, J. A. Gordon & Co., - - - xliv
Modesto.
Ross House, J. Cole - xvii
Napa City.
Revere House, J.W.Sharp xviii
Oakland.
Taylor's Carpet Store, - liii Pet ALUM A.
American Hotel Mrs, Wm. Ordway - - - xix
San Francisco.
A. r>. Bancroft & Company, Books and Stationery Cover
A. Li. Bancroft & Company, Pianos - .• . . vii
Blake, Robbins & Co., Paper ----- xii
Bradley & Rulofson, Photo- graphs - - - - XX
California Ink Company, G. L. Faulkner ... xxi
City Livery and Sale Stables, M. Magner, - - xlv
^ Eagle Pencils - xxii
R. Eitner, Engraver, xxiii
Jos Figel, Merchant Tailor xxiv
L P. Fisher, Advertising Agent ... XXV
Grand Hotel, Johnson & Co xU'i Henry G. Hanks, Assayer and
Chemist - - - Ivi Hobbs, Gilmore & Co. - xxvi J. Isaac & Co., ^ tationery xi Sam'l Kellett, Plaster, Decora- tions, ... xlviii McAfee, Spiers & Co., Boiler
Makers ... viii
J. C. Meussdorffer, Hats xxvii New York Livery Stable, Crit- tenden & Dalton - xlix Occidental Hotel, - xxviii Overland Monthly, J. H. Car- many & Co. - - - vi Geo. T. Pracy - xxix
H. Rosekrans & Co., Hard- ware ... XXX
Sherman & Hyde, Music Dealers ... xxxi
Thurnauer & Zinn, Willow- ware . - - - xxxii
Watkins' Photographic Views,
xiii
Woodward's Gardens - Ivii
San Jose.
Auzerais House - - 1
Church & Wallace, Teams and
Saddle Horses - - Ivi New York Exchange Hotel li
vStockton.
Yosemite House - - liv
Yosemite.
Coulterville route - xxxiii Coulterville and Mariposa
route, C. P. R. R. . xv New Yosemite Hotel, Leidig
& Davaney, - . - Hi
INDEX TO ADVERTISERS.
Boston.
And. T. Gra,ves, Books xxxiv Henry Hoyt, New Prize Books
- - - - XXXV
Lee & Shepard, Schwartz Novels - - - - xiv
Lee & Shepard, Books of Travel - - . xxxvi
Loring's R. R. Novels - Iv
H. A.Young& Co., Books xxxvii
New York.
Appleton's Guide Books xxxviii Eagle Pencils - - xxii Gillott's Pens Inside Cover
Harper's Periodicals^ - iii
J. S. Redfield, Books - xxxix S. R.Wells, Phrenology xl
Shipraans' Patent File - v
Spencerian Pens,Ivison,Bl^^<:e- man & Taylor - - iv
Palmyra. N. Y.
Globe Printing Presses - x
Philadelphia,
Chas. Desilver, School Books
- xli Kay & Brother, Publishers, &c. ... xlii
Springfield, Mass.
Webster's Dictionaries ix
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER.
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The great design of Harper's is to give correct information and rational amusement to the great masses ot the people. There is no monthly Magazine an intelligent reading family can less afford to be without. j\Iany Magazines are accumulated. Harper'' s is edited. — New England Homestead.
Harper's Weekly.
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Harper's Weekly is the best and most interesting illustrated newspaper. Nor does its value depend on its illustrations alone. Its reading-matter is of a high order of literary merit — varied, instructive, entertaining, and uaexcep- tionable.— TV. Y. Sun.
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HUNDRED Engravings on Wood. By Wm. G.
Webster, and Wm. A, Wheeler.
THE ^LUSTRATED CATALOGUE, descriptive of The American Edu- cational Series of School and College Text-Books, and The Educational Reporter, a handsome publication full of useful information, mailed free to any address.
Ivison, Blakeman, Taylor & Co.,
Publishers, 138 and 140 Grand Street, New York.
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER.
FOR SAVING VALUABLE PAPERS NOTHING EQUALS
SHIPMAN'S
PATENT ADHESIVE
Letter and Invoice File.
We would respectfully call the attention of Business Men, Bankers and others,to our Patent Adhesive Letter and Invoice File.
We claim that it is the best article in use for the preservation of all kinds of printed or written documents, such as Letters, Invoices, Bills, &c. &c. They are in use by most of the Business Firms and Companies in the United States.
Its form is that of a scrap book, of various sizes, having narrow leaves with adhesive surface, which requires only to be moistened and the document applied; thus it becomes a book of 250 or 500 letters, ai-rangedm the oxdexol dates, secure from loss ox misplace- ment., and as convenient for reference as a ledger account — and this with the least expense of time. Every lover of order or economist of time must appreciate its importance.
We also keep constantly on hand, in great variety^ Invoice and Scrap Books, Letter Copying Books, Blank Books and a full assortment of Stationery.
ASA L. SHIPMAN & SONS,
25 Chambers Street, New York.
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER.
SUBSCRIBE FOR THE
Overland Monthly
The only Literary Magazine ■ PUBLISHED ON THE PACIFIC COAST.
The Seventh Volume of this popular California Magazine will commence with the July Number for 1871. Its popularity has induced the publishers to make still greater exertions in producing an interesting and instructive periodical.
Terms: — $4.00 per a.nnum, pa^ad/e in advance.
Club Rates: — Two copies, $7.00; Fii'e copies,$i6,oo; Ten copies,$3o,oo; and. each additional copy, $3.00. Por every Club of Twenty Subscribers, an extra copy will be furnished gratis.
PUBLISHED BY
'JOHN H. CARMAN Y & CO. No. 409 WASHINGTON STREET SAN FRANCISCO.
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER.
PIANOS, ORGANS,
MUSIC PUBLICATIONS,
NEW PIANO AGENCY.— Messrs. A. L. Bancroft & Co. have organized, under the management of Wm. Henry Knight, a MUSIC DEPARTMENT, where may be fou^d a complete assortment of PIANOS, ORGANS, SHEET MUSIC AND MUSIC PUBLICATIONS. Following are some of their spec- ialties:
I. The GEORGl PIANO-FORTE— a new and magnificent instrument; in every respect strictly first-class, and becoming very popular in the East.
II. The PRINCE ORGANS AND MELODEONS.— There are 46,500 of these now in use. They are unsurpassed among reed organs.
III. The McCAMMON PIANOS, formerly known as the celebrated ' ' Boardman & Gray" Piano. A very superior, moderate pi iced instrument.
IV. The COTTAGE AND SCHOOL PIANO.— In small sized cases, elegant in appearance, of low cost, and very durable.
V. HOOK'S PIPE ORGANS FOR CHURCHES.— The best manufactured.
VI. LUNAN'S GERMAN UPRIGHT PIANOS.— Fine- toned, thoroughly well made instruments.
VII. MUSIC PUBLICATIONS.— Sheet Musjc, Instruction Books, etc., etc.
For Descriptive Circulars and Price Lists, address or apply to
A. L. BANCROFT & COMPANY,
Music Department, Bancroft's Building, SAN FRANCISCO.
TOURIST'S GUIDE AD\^RTISER.
McAfee, Spiers & Co.,
Boilei' Makers a7id GENERAL MACHINISTS.
High (Did Low- Pressure Boilers,
STATIONARY AND MARINE.
Howard St., bet. Fremont and Beale,
SAN FRANCISCO.
Also Orders received for every descrip- tion of Machinery.
Having 24 years' experience in this business, we feel confident of being able to compete, as to quality of work, with any establishment on the Pacific Coast.
Particular and personal attention given to repairs of old boilers on steamships and steamboats.
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. ix
GET THE BEST
Webster's Unabridged DICTIONARY.
10,000 Words and Meanings not in other Dictionaries. 3,000 Engravings. 1,840 Pages Quarto. Price $12.
Glad to add my testimony in its favor. [President Walker of Hartford.] Every scholar knows its value. [W. H. Prescott, the HLstorian.] The most complete Dictionary of the Language. [Dr. Dick, of Scotland.]
The best guide of students of our language. [John G. Whittier.] He will transmit his name to latest posterity. [Chancellor Kent.] T^tyraological parts surpasses anything by earlier laborers. -L> [George Bancroft.]
Bearing relation to Language Principia does to Philosophy. [Elihu Burritt.] Excels all others in defining scientific terms. [President Hitchcock.] SO far as I know, best defining Dictionary. [Horace Mann.] Take it altogether, the surpassing work. [Smart, the English Orthoepist.] A necessity for every intelligent family, student, teacher and professional man. What library is complete without the best English Dictionary? Published by G. & C. MERRIAM, Springfield. Mass. Sold by A. L. BANCROFT & CO., San Francisco, and all Booksellers.
Also, WEBSTER'S NATIONAL PICTORIAL DICTIONARY.
1040 Pages Octavo. 600 Engravings. Price $5. The work is really a gem of a Dictionary, jast the thing for the millions.— American Educational Monthly.
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Globe Printing Presses.
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DWELL ON THE IMPRESSION. DETENTION OF ROLLERS ON CYLINDER AND DOUBLE VIBRATING DISTRIBUTORS,
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NET CASH PRICES:
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Eighth medium, 8 x 12 inches inside of chase, $250.00. Steam Fixtures, $15.00. Boxing, $6.00. — extra.
One Roller Mould, two sets Roller Stocks, and three chases, are included \\4th each Press.
All of these Presses will be thoroughly tested, strongly boxed, and delivered to the order of the purchaser, at our manufactory, Palmyra, N. Y.
Jones Manufacturing Co.
Palmyra, N. Y.
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JOSEPH ISAAC. H. ROBITSCHECK.
J. ISAAC & CO.,'
IMPORTERS AND JOBBERS OF
Stationery, Blank Books,
MANILA AND WRAPPING PAPERS, Playing Cards, Labels, Liquor Essences,
ETC., ETC., ETC.,
5/j> Sansome St., cor. Merchant
SAN FRANCISCO.
J. ISAAC & CO'S
Paper Warehouse.
DEALRRS IN PAPERS
OF ALL DESCRIPTIONS.
Envelopes Jnks, Twine, Playing Cards,
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AGENTS FOR
Carson's Celebrated Letter Papers,
INFERIOR TO NONE.
Agents for Dexter's Manila Papers. Agents for Whiting Mill Paper,
AND OTHER LEADING BRANDS,
^t6 Sacramento & ^ig Commercial Sts.
San Francisco.
Francis Blake, \
James Moffitt, > San Francisco.
Chas. F. Robbins, J
James W. Towne, New York.
New York Office, i8 and 20 Vesey Street,
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. xiii
WATKINS' YosEMiTE Gallery,
429 Montgomery Street, San Francisco, Cal,
Photographic Views
Of Yosemite Valley, the Big Trees, the Mines, the splendid Scenery of the
CENTRAL PACIFIC RAILROAD,
The- Coast etc., etc. Can be had in all sizes for framing, the Album, or the Stereoscope.
Sold Wholesale and Retail. A liberal discount made to the trade. Vou are requested to visit the Gallery,
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER.
The Most Popular Novels
ARE THE
SCHWARTZ NOVELS.
Translated from the Swedish of Madame Marie
Sophie Schwartz, by Miss Selma Borg,
and Miss Marie A. Brown.
NOW READY,
GUILT AND INNOCENCE Paper, $i oo; Cloth. $i 50.
" Madame Schwartz is a writer of much greater literary merit than Miss Muhlbach, whose works have been so widely circulated in this coimtry.' — Ne^v York AtUis. GOLD AND NAME. Paper, §1 00; Cloth, $1 50.
" This is a powerful book; in plot and style, it is equally good. Its morals — it may be considered to have several— are unexceptionable." — Ch?-istian Stan- dard, Cincinnati. BIRTH AND EDUCATION. Paper. $1 00; Cloth, gi 50.
"This title would make one suppose that it was a book devoted to common schools and academies. Instead of that, it is a romance of the very highest class, — one of the best historical novels of the age." — Albany Eve7iing Post. THE WIFE OF A VAIN MAN. 8vo., Paper, $1 00; Cloth, $1 50.
In presentmg to American readers the first translations of this author, who in her own country is universally popular, the publishers take pleasure in making public the following tribute of the Great Swedish Lyric Artiste, Mlle. Chris- tine NiLSSON.
New York, November 28, 1870.
Mademoiselle: — It is with great pleasure that I have learned that you, in conjunction with Miss Makie A. Brown have undertaken to translate into En- glish the magnificent works of Madame Schwartz.
Allow me then, dear Mademoiselle, as a fervent admirer of Mada.aie Schwartz, to offer you and Miss Brown my liveliest iehcitations for having chosen an author of so immense merit to introduce to the American public a writer who has contributed to make the glory of our country.
I wish you all the success you deserve, and beg you to be so kind as to send me a copy of the work as soon as it is published.
Accept, Mademoiselle, as well as Miss Brown, my warmest sympathy and the assurance of my perfect consideration.
CHRISTINE NILSSON.
Sold by all booksellers and newsdealers, and sent by mail postpaid on receipt of price.
Lee & Shepard, Publishers, Boston. Lee, Shepard & Dillingham,
47 and 49 Greene St., N. Y.
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER.
YOSEMITE
AND
BIG TREE GROVES
IN TWO DAYS.
IMPORTANT FOR TOURISTS.
NE V ROUTE FOR 187 r,
VIA THE
VI SALT A DIVISION of the CENTRAL PACIFIC RAILROAD,
FROM
LATHROP,
AND FROM THE TERMINUS OF THE C. P. R. R. BY STAGE, VIA
MARIPOSA AND CLARK'S OR COULTERVILLE.
8^ For further information see page 58.
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER.
THE GREAT
GEYSER SPRINGS
OF CALIFORNIA.
THESE celebrated Springs are the greatest natural curipsity in the world, and are reached by the
NAPA VALLEY ROUTE AND THE RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY ROUTE.
For particulars of these routes, see description in body of this guide.
The Medicinal and Curative Properties of the Geyser Springs are admitted to be equal, if not superior, to CalLstoga, Baden-Baden, Aix-la-Chapel, Wies- baden, or Homburg. The Scenery is wild, picturesque and grand in the extreme, and finer than that of the lower Alps.
The Pluton, or Grea r Sulphir Creek, which runs by the Geyser Hotel, is well supplied with mountain trout; and the hills abound with deer and other game.
THE HOTEL
Is a large, two-story building, with spacious verandahs surrounding it, above and below, and has been newly furnished. New steam and sulphur bath- houses have been erected, and a large stable has been built. Private Ieams can easily and safely drive over the new road from Calistoga, and at the Geysers will find an abundance of good feed for their horses.
SADDLE HORSES
For ladies and Gentlemen, are always on hand, at reasonable prices.
A Good Table is kept at the Hotel, and the best of Liquors and Cigars will be found at the bar, The rooms are comfortable, and the beds are all new and provided with spring mattresses. •
Board and lodging per day, $3; board and lodging per week, $17.50; single meals, each, $1.50. Baths, 25. Visiting the Geyser Canons, for each person, $1. Children under ten yeais of age, half price.
jJ^Visitors are requested not to pay the Guides, as they are furnished by the Hotel, free of charge.
Fare from San Francisco to Calistoga, per steamer and cars, §3.50. Suges from there to the Gej-sers, $6.00 per passage.
J. C. SUSENBETH,
p. S. — For further particulars, inquire at the ofBceof J. S. POLACK, Esq., Room No. I, N. W. corner of Jackson and Montgomery Sts., Ssn Francisco.
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER.
THE SHORTEST AND
BEST ROUTE TO YOSEMITE
Via Modesto.
ROSS HOUSE, MODESTO.
JOS. COLE, Proprietor.
Tourists will find this House conducted in first-class style. Charges moderate, and every attention paid to Guests. Stages leave this House daily for Snelling's, Hornitas, Mariposa, Yosemite, and all points south.
YOSEMITE STABLES.
MODESTO, CAL.
HORSES, CARRIAGES AND SADDLE HORSES
To let on reasonable terms.
Horses boarded with the best of care, by the day or week.
Private Teams Furnished at the shortest notice; also Two
Four or Six Horse Turnouts furnished for Tourists,
with Concord or Kimball Carriages, with careful
and experienced Drivers.
F. H, ROSS, Proprietor,
Modesto is situated at the terminus of the Visalia Division of the C. P. R. R.
The Ross House, also the Yosemite Stables were built by F. H. Ross, almost exclusively for the accommodation of Tourists, and no pains will be spared to make their visit to the Hoase, or transit to the valley comfortable and pleasant.
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER.
REVERE HOUSE
JOHN W. SHARP, Proprietor.
Second Street, opposite Court House, NAPA CITY.
ONLY FIRST-CLASS HOUSE IN NAPA CITY.
THIS HOUSE is fitted up in superior style, and is now open for the reception of Permanent and Transient Guests. It is built in modem style, and the rooms are large, airy and pleasant.
THE BAR is well supplied. THE TABLE shall be second to none in the State. The farming community will find at this House the best of accommodations at reasonable prices.
'^v-
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER.
AMERICAN HOTEL,
Main- Street, Petaluma. MRS. WM. ORDWAY, Proprietress.
This Hotel, first-class in every particular, is the leading house in this city and one of the best hotels on the coast.
THE BUILDING is a large, three-story, fire-proot brick, situated in the center of the business part of the city, well ventilated, supplied with water and gas, perfectly arranged with a view to comfort and convenience, containing sixty three rooms, elegant parlor, pleasant reading room, first-class Bar and Billiard room, Hair Dressing Saloon and Cigar Stand.
THE ROOMS, single and en-suite, are large, with high ceilings, well ventilated and elegantly furnished.
THE TABLE is supplied with the best the market affords, prepared and served in first-class style.
A LIVERY STABLE is connected with the Hotel. Splendid carriages are furnished upon notice at the office.
OMNIBUSES convey guests to and from the Hotel to cars and steamers, free of charge.
STAGES from the city leave from this Hotel.
Tourists, visiting the city, are shown eveiy courtesy and attention in all departments of the Hotel.
XX TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER.
FOR THE VERY
Best Photographs,
GO TO
BRADLEY
AND
RULOFSON,
429 Montgomery Street,
SAJV FRANCISCO.
Closed on Sundays,
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER.
THE CALIFORNIA
INK COMPANY,
405 & 407 SANSOME STREET,
SAN FRANCISCO.
GEORGE L. FAULKNER, Agent.
Are manufacturing\Vriting Inks of different colors, equal if not superior to those of Eastern or Foreign manufacture.
For our Black Writing Fluid, we claim:
1st. — That it will not corrode or clog the pen, but keep it always in a bright, clean condition.
2d. — That there is no sediment that can settle and impair the color.
3d. — That it flows freely from, and is of a rich, deep color as soon as it leaves the pen.
4th. — It is not affected by acids, as an acid that would remove the ink will eat up the paper.
5th. — It cannot be washed off with water.
6th. — It is a California production, and the manufacture of the same keeps thousands of dollars in the State, that have hitherto been sent abroad for Ink.
We also make a superior article of MUCILAGE that cannot be excelled for its adhesive qualities.
LIQUID LAUNDRY BLUING.— A convenient and relia- ble preparation, to take the place of all others hitherto used for Laundry purposes. Put up in 8 oz. bottles and gallon jars.
The attention of the trade is respectfully solicited to these manufactures. Perfect satisfaction guaranteed.
Refer, by permission, to Messrs. A. L. Bancroft & Company, who are selling large quantities of our Writing Inks and Mucilage.
CALIFORNIA INK COMPANY,
GEO. L. FAULKNER, Agent.
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER.
SATISFACTION IN ALL CASES GUARANTEED.
ASK FOUR STATIONER FOR
EAGLE PENCILS
These pencils, which have been before the American public for several years, are rapidly growing in popularity, and are to-day MORE EXTENSIVELY USED IN THE UNITED STATES THAN AN^^ OTHER. And are pronounced by all who have given them a fair trial, to be INFERIOR TO NONE manufactured, and are sold at prices materially lower than are other first-class articles.
Office Rubber-Head pencils are very much liked by business men.
Eagle Drawing pencils are recommended in the Drawing Books now in use in the State of California, and by Drawing Teachers, and others.
EAGLE DIAMOND RUBBER IS THE BEST MANUFACTURED.
SOLD BY BOOKSELLERS & STATIONERS GENERALLY. And at Wholesale and Retail by
A. L. Bancroft & Company, B O OKSELLERS AND ST A TI ONERS
721 MARKET ST., SAN FR.\NCISCO.
i!lliil!piiiiii!iiPiiiiiiiii
M
I Hi
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER.
JOS. FIGEL, Clothier, Merchant Tailor
AND DEALER IN
Men's and Boys' Clothing,
FURNISHING GOODS, TRUNKS, &C.
211 MONTGOMERY STREET,
Russ Block, opposite Piatt's Hall,
Would respectfully invite the attention of the Public to his
superior Stock of Goods, feeling confident that he can
suit, both in regard to Price and Quality.
A FEATURE
In his business is the particular attention paid to the manufacture of Men's and Boys' Clothing, College and Military Uniforms of every description to Order, from a large assortment of Cloths, Cassimeres, Beavers, Scotch Tweed, etc.
Elegance of Style and Perfection of Fit are in all cases guaranteed.
A visit to my Establishment will convince you of my ability to please in every respect.
JOS. FIGEL,
No. 2 1 1 Montgomery Street, San Francisco, California.
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER.
ESTABLISHED IN 1852
L. P. FISHER'S
ADVERTISING
agency:
Rooms 20 & 21 Aleve hunts Exchange
CALIFORNIA ST., SAN FRANCISCO.
Agent for the Sacramento Union.
^♦ADVERTISING IS THE OIL WHICH WISE MEN PUT IN THEIR LAMPS." —Modern Proverb.
GIRARUS SECRET.
Stephen Girard, than whom no shrewder business man ever lived, used to say in his old age:
'• I have always considered advertising liberally and long to be the great medium of success in business and prelude to wealth. And I have made it an invariable rule, too, to advertise in the dullest times, as well as in the busiest, long experience having taught me that money thus spent is well laid out; as by keeping my business continually before the public, it has secured many sales that I otherwise would have lost."
Advertisements and Subscriptions solicited for papers published in Califor- nia and Oregon, Washington, Utah, Idaho, Montana, Colorado, Arizona and adjacent Territories; Sandwich Islands, the British Possessions, Mexican Forts, Nicaragua, Panama, Valparaiso, Japan, China, Europe, Australia, Atlantic States, etc., etc.
N. B. — FOR SALE; bound volumes of the Sacrcunento Union, from Sept 19th, 1855, to the present time; also, the Sun-Francisco Evening Bulletin, in bound volumes, from the beginning of its publication to the present time.
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER.
SAN FRANCISCO MILLS.
HOBBS,GILMORE&CO.
Manufacturers of BOXES,
ALSO,
Sawing and Planing Mills,
Market, Beale and Main Sts.
SAN FRANCISCO. San Pedro Street, near Depot, San Jose.
FOR SALE;
SPANISH CEDAR, MAHOGANY,
AND OTHER FANCY WOOD.
5^* We are now manufacturing, and will receive orders for the manufacture of different kinds of
AGRICULTURAL MACHINES.
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. xxvii
FOR FINE HATS
GO TO
J. C. Meussdorffer,
NORTH EAST CORNER
OF
Montgomery & Bush Sts.
SAN FRANCISCO.
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER.
GEORGE T. PRACY,
MACHINE WORKS,
109 & III MISSION STREET, SAN FRANCISCO.
These Works have lately been increased, by additional tools, and we are now able to turn out any kind of work, equal to and cheaper than any establishment in the State, that is to say:—
Steam Engines, Flour and Saw Mills, Quartz Machinery, Printing Presses,
AND MACHINERY MADE OF EVERY DESCRIPTION. IMPROVED SAFETY STORE HOISTS,
Fitted with Cutting's Patent Cams, unequaled for safety, con- venience and cheapness. This Hoist can be built for about half the price of any other in use. To be seen at HAWLEY & CO'S.
ALSO, MANUFACTURER AND SOLE AGENT FOR
pracy's celebrated governor.
TURNING LATHES, &C CONSTANTLY ON HAND.
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER.
H. ROSEKRANS. S. READ.
H. RoSEKRANS & Co.
IMPORTERS A.ND DEALERS IN
HARDWARE,
Builders' Materials, Carpenters' Tools,
HO USE-FURNISHING UTENSILS,
AXD ALL KINDS OF
SHELF HARDWARE,
/j5 Montgomery Street
NEAR BUSH STREET,
SAN FRANCISCO.
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER.
SHERMAN & HYDE,
IMPORTERS AND DEALERS IN
SHEET MUSIC
PIANOS, ORGANS,
AND
MUSICAL MERCHANDISE OF EVERY DESCRIPTION
Corner Kearny & Sutter Streets,
SAN FRANCISCO, CAL.
Send your orders directly to us. Remember it is no more trouble or expense to send Sheet Music by Mail, one thousand miles than it is one mile.
Music Teachers, Seminaries and Dealers liberally dealt with.
xxxii TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER.
Thurnauer & Zinn,
IMPORTERS OF
French and German Fancy Baskets,
ENGLISH AND AMERICAN WILLOW WARE,
TOYS, FANCY GOODS
AND YANKEE NOTIONS, CANE AND WILLOW CHAIRS,
LADIES' WORK STANDS,
Wooden Ware, Feather -Dusters, Brushes,
ETC., ETC., ETC.
533 MARKET STREET,
opposite Sutter and Sansome Streets, SAN FRANCISCO.
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER,
The shortest and best route to
rOSEMlTE VALLET.
C, P. R. R, to Modesto, thence by stage to
Coulterville, Bower Cave, Pilot
Peak and Crane Flat,
Leaves Modesto on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday at 5 o'clock, A.M., arrives at Coulterville at 2 p. m.; distance 50 miles; leaving Coulterville at 4 P.M., arrive at Eower Cave, at 7 P. M. Next morning leave Bower Cave at 6 a.m., and arrive at Crane Flat at ii A. M. Take Saddle Horse and arrive at the Hotels in the Valley, at 4 o'clock, p. M., 15 miles horseback. Returning, leave Yosemite at 7 o'clock, A. M., distance, 46 miles, arrive at Coulterville at 5 o'clock, p. m., leave Coulterville at 5 A. M., arrive at Modesto, at 4 o'clock p. M.
The above route is superior to all others, as there is less time consumed on the road, more rest, and the whole route gives finer scenery than by any other, from the fact that after you strike the foot hills, you pass along the dividing ridge between the Tuolumne and Merced rivers, to the East, the Sierra Nevada, with Castle Peak, Mount Dames, and other prominent points, to the West, is the San Joaquin, and the Coast Range; also less dust than any other route, as the route is East and West, and the north winds that are almost constantly blowing, carry the dust from you.
And as a round trip is always desirable; parties can go by Coulterville, and out via Big Trees and Mariposa, or vice versa.
By the first of June, there will be but 2% miles horseback riding into the valley.
The nights at Bower Cave are cool and refreshing, unsur- passed on the whole route.
Through Tickets for sale at all the railroad offices, Sacra- mento and Lathrop.
G. W. COULTER, Agent.
Office at C. B. & M; R. R. R. office 214 Montg'y Street.
:iv TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER.
VALUABLE BOOKS,
For Children and Youth,
PUBLISHED BY
ANDREW F. GRAVES,
20 CoRNHiLL, Boston, Mass.
THE SUNSHINE SERIES.— By H. N. W. B. Six volumes. i8mo., S3.60
This is an entirely new series of books, hy one of the best writers of juvenile books. They are put up in a neat box, and will be found excellent for the "Sabbath School Library."
AMY GARNETT. One vol., 16 mo. $1.25
LYNDANEWTON.— By Mis L.J. H.Frost. 16 mo., - - - 1.50
An excellent book, and one which will interest everjT one. DAVY'S MOTTO. 16 mo., 1.25
It is better to do well than to say well is the motto. JOE AND THE HOWARDS; or Armed with Eyes. By Carl. 16 mo. 1.25
It gives much valuable information in regard to insects, both on land a.id water, in such a manner as cannot fail to amuse children, while it is storing their minds with that which is useful for them to know. THE RAINFORD SERIESi— By Glance Gaylord.
Four volumes in box, ......... §6.00
THE WOODBINE SERIES.— By Mrs. Madeline Leslie. i6mo. Il- lustrated, $1.25
This is an entire new set, by a very popular author. Other volumes will be issued from time to time. The title pages are printed in colors. THE ARLINGTON SERIES. 4 vols., i6mo.
Four volumes in box, .....-.-- S5-50 THE PERCY FAMILY.— By Rev. D. C. Eddy, D. D.
Five volumes with neat box, -- 5.00
THE CEDAR BROOK STORIES, or the Clifford Children. By Mrs. A. S M., author of " Only a Pauper." 5 vols. i8mo.
The five volumes handsomely illustrated in a neat box with illuminated covers, ........... 3.25
CORWIN'S WEST'S SERIES.— 6 vols in a box, .... 4.50
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER.
HAVE YOU READ THE
NEW PRIZE BOOKS.
Both Sides of the Street, ($600) $1.60
Moth and Rust, ($300) $i.6o
Fourteenth Thousand now ready.
DIGGING A GRAVE
With a Wine-Glass. And the First Glass of Wine.
Simple texts are sometimes more effective preachers than sermons, or whole vohimes of well conceived essays. Read the two stories within the covers of this book, kind reader, and if a first glass of wine tempt you, let the prayer go forth, "Lead us not into temptation."
Beautifully illustrated. Price $1.25.
DOWN IN A SALOON;
OR
The ]\Jinister's Protege.
By the author of the new $600.00 prize book, '« BOTH SIDES OF THE STREET."
Beautifully bound in gold and black, and sent prepaid by mail. Price, I1.50 For sale by all Booksellers.
HENRY HO YT,
No. 9 Cornhill, Boston.
For sale by A. L. Bancroft & Co.
xxxvi TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER.
BOOKS OF TRAVEL.
Published by
LEE & SHEPARD, BOSTON.
A Readable Book on California. Thk Su?T8ET Land; or. The Great Pacific Slope. By Rey. John
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BIG TREES,
Calaveras County, California,
First-Class Hotel Accommodations,
SPERRY & PERRY, Proprietors.
The Calaveras Group is the one known to the World as the Big Trees of California, and the one chiefly visited by tourists. It comprises the Mammoth and the South Park groves. The Mammoth grove contains ninety-three of these
Giants of the Forest,
among which are the
MOTHER OF THE FORKST, the bark from which was exhibited in the Crystal Palace, London ; the
FATHER OF THE FOREST, through whose prostrate trunk thousands have ridden on horseback ; and the
ORIGINAL BIG TREE, the stump of which forms the floor of the famous Pavilion, thirty-two feet in diameter.
The South Park grove, six miles distant, has thirteen hundred and eighty of these trees, many of them of immense size. One, still standing and growing, has the inner portion at the base burned out, making a room large enough to contain sixteen men on horseback at the same time ; and yet, enough of the outer rim of the tree is left to support the colossal proportions above.
The Calaveras Group surpasses all others in the grandeur and beauty of its trees, and is the only one having hotel accommodations.
Tourists leaving Stockton will take the cars of the Copperopolis railroad at 9 o'clock, A. M., to Milton, twenty-eight miles, connecting with a daily line of Concord coaches via Winthrop's, for the Big Trees, making the entire distance in ten hours. At Murphy's, stages leave daily for Yosemite Valley per Hutching's new route, being the shortest and best to Yosemite Valley. A daily line of coaches leave Gait for the Bfg Trees. At Melton, and Murphy's, private conveyances can be obtained for the Big Trees and Yosemite Valley, at low rates.
THOMAS HOUSEWORTH, Agent,
317 and 2,^() Montgomery St., San Francisco.
xliv TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER.
NEW HOTEL.
GILROY.
The Proprietors take pleasure in informing the public generally that they have opened the NEW HOTEL, the
HANNA HOUSE.
SITUATED IN THE
Business Centre of the City, near the R. R. Depot,
And fitted up in ELEGANT STYLE, and being- thor- oughly experienced in the business, can promise their patrons such attention and accommodations as are found in a
FIRST-CLASS HOUSE.
Everything about the House is entirely new, and of the best quality.
. THE HOTEL COACH
Will be in constant attendance to convey passengers to and from the House FREE OF CHARGE.
The patronage of the public is respectfully solicited.
J. A. GORDON & CO.,
PROPRIETORS.
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. xlv
CITY
Livery and Sale Stables,
332 Bush Street,
Bet. Montgomery and Kearny, SAN FRANCISCO.
M. MAGNER, - - Proprietor.
An entire new stock of fine young Horses, sound and free from vice, of fine style, and capable of going as fast as any gentle- man cares to drive. Also new and elegant Wagons of all de- scriptions, which I wilJ let to responsible parties at popular prices.
Saddle Horses for Ladies and Gentlemen,
Horses boarded with the very best of care, under my own supervision, at prices to suit the times. Patronage respectfully solicited.
M. MAGNER,
Formerly of the El Dorado Stables, Stockton .
Private Teams furnished for the Big Tree Grove and Yosemite Falls, to start from Stockton, or the terminus of the Visalia or Copperopolis Railroad.
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. xlvii
GRAND HOTEL.
JOHNSON & CO., - - Proprietors.
SAN FRANCISCO, CALIFORNIA.
xl/iii TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER.
SAMUEL KELLETT,
MANUFACTURER OF
PLASTER
Decorations,
No. 763
Market Street,
San Francisco.
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. xlix
NEW YORK
Livery Stable.
Crittenden & Dalton,
Proprietors. 712 Mission Street, near Third,
opposite Dr. Scudder's Church, SAN FRANCISCO.
Four in Hand for Cliff House.
^^ Orders left at the Office of Grand Hotel promptly attended to.
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER.
H. S. GREELEY, Manager,
Formerly of the Occidental, San Franci.=cO.
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER
NEW YORK
Exchange Hotel,
SAN JOSE.
First Street, corner St. Johns,
CENTRALLY LOCATED,
NEWLY FURNISHED.
Bath and Billiard Rooms, with Barber Shop attached.
Board, with Rooms, $2 a day,
OR $12.00 A WEEK.
Suites, $4 a day, or $20 a week.
lii TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER.
THE NEW
YosEMiTE Hotel,
Fred. Leidig & Hugh Davanay,
PROPRIETORS.
This fine new Hotel is the first which the tourist reaches on entering the Valley, and is situated on the south bank of the Merced, in front of Cathedral Rock, about three miles from the entrance to the Valley. The main building is two stories in height, roomy, new and clean, plenty of pleasant, airy bedrooms. Table supplied with fresh mountain trout in abundance, in addition to fresh butter, milk, eggs, fruit and every other luxury of the mountains. A splendid stock of ice has been laid in for the comfort of summer visitors — a luxury not to be had elsewhere in the Valley. . Bar well stocked with best qualities of Wines, Liquors and Cigars.
The famous Yosemite hostess, Mrs. Leidig, has charge, of the domestic arrangements of the House, and the Proprietors, in person, give their whole attention to the accommodation of their guests.
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. liii
OAKLAND !
TAYLOR'S
Carpet Store
Cor. Broadway and Tenth Sts.,
OAKLAND, CAL.
CARPETS, Oil Cloth, Paper Hangings and Upholstery Goods, Body Brussels, Tapestry Brussels, Three Ply, Ingrain and Hemp Carpets.
OIL CLOTHS, all width and qualities.
PAPER HANGINGS, all styles and grades. Plain and Decorative Paper Hanging in all its branches.
A full and complete line of UPHOLSTERY GOODS always in stock.
Parties residing in Oakland and vicinity, and those contemplating removing to Oakland, vk^ill do well to call and examine our stock before purchasing elsewhere.
We Sell all Goods at Sau Francisco Prices !
CHAS. L. TAYLOR, Cor. Broadway and Tenth Streets, Oakland.
liv TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER.
Yosemite House.
STOCKTON, CAL.
ALEXANDER McBEAN, Profr.
NEW FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. Main Street, bet. San yose and Sutter,
Centrally Located, Finely Furnished.
BATH ROOMS, BARBER SHOP AND BILLIARD ROO:\I ATTACHED,
EXCELLENT TABLE, FINE ROOMS, GAS AND WATER THROUGHOUT.
Terms; S2.50 a day, S15.00 a week.
FREE COACH TO THE HOUSE.
TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER.
t
LORING'S RAILWAY NOVELS!
WE COMMEND THEM TO ALL TRAVELERS.
ASK FOR THEM AT THE BOOKSTORES, AT THE DEPOT
NEWS STANDS, OF THE BOYS IN THE CARS,
AND ON THE BOATS.
LORING'S SUCCESSFUL BOOKS :
Louise M. Alcott's Moods, - - - - - - $1.25
*' " Three Proverb Stories, - - .75
Virginia F. Townsend's Hollands, - - - - 1.25
" " The Mills of Tuxbwry, - 1.25
Laura Caxton's Marion Berkley, 1.50
George McDonald's Robert Falconer, - - - 2.00
" " David Elginbrod, - - - - 1-75
" " Adele Cathcart, - - - 1.75
" ** Phantasies, 1.75
Mrs. A. D. T. Whitney's Hitherto, . . . . 2.00
*' The Gayworthys, - - - 2.00
" Patience Strong's Outings, - 1.75
" Mother Goose for Grown Folks, 1.50
" Faith Gartney's Girlhood, - 1.50
4vi TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER.
HENRY G. HANKS,
Assay er and Chemist,
AND DEALER IN
Fine Minerals, Fossils, Shells,
ETC., ETC., ETC.
Invites Tourists visiting San Francisco to call and examine his collection at
649 Clay Street,
(UP STAIRS.) TEAMS AND SADDLE HORSES.
CHURCH & WALLACE,
386 First Street, San Jose.
Single Horse and Buggy to Almaden Mine, - - $ 5 00
Elegant Double Teams, 10 00
Saddle Horses, 2 50
Teams ordered by Telegraph, will he on hand at the Railway Depot.
Woodward's Gardens, Mission St., bet. 13th and 14th, San Francisco, Cal.
THE CENTRAL PARK OF THE PACIFIC.
Iviii TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER.
Yosemite and Big Tree Groves
VIA
Mariposa and Clark' s or Coulterville.
Thus a person can leave Sacramento at noon, or San Francisco at 4 p. m. by the C P. R. R., remain over night at the junction of the Rail and Stage roads, the second night at White & Hatch's and arrive in the Valley of the Yosemite the next evening; or those who prefer can remain that night at Clark's and ride leisurely into the Valley early the next day. The latter course might be preferable to the majority of tourists, who would desire to visit en route the Mariposa Grove of Big Trees, which is but five miles from Clark's. The trail from Clark's leads through Alder Creek, Empire Camp, Sentinel Dome, Glacier Point, and the far-famed "Inspiration Point." From the latter is obtained the first grand view of this wonderful Valley, lying four thousand feet below the " Point."
LAKE TAHOE,
Via Stage fourteen mQes from TRUCKEE
DONNER LAKE,
Three miles from either TRUCKEE or SUMMIT.
CALAVERAS BIG TREES,
Via Sti^e, sixty-five miles from G-^ LT, or sixtj'-two miles from MOKELUMNE
THROUGH TICKETS:
C. p. R. R; OFFICE, 422 CALIFORNIA STREET.
OAKLAND WHARF.
C. & N. W. Ry. "{p 445 CALIFORNIA STREET. C. B.&M. R.R. " 214 MONTGOMERY STREET. C.R.I.&P.R.R. " 208 MONTGOMERY STREET. K. C. St. J. & C. B. R. R. OFFICE, 306 MONT. ST.
Ivi
by roi Yc an be the Th D. lat th.
.....KmAI. FIKB OF 25_CENTS
^I^R
" c
I
hO
CO
80
> 79
I
U.C.BERKELEY LIBRARIES
C0Hb717t'14
Z650S1
F
THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA UBRARY
i