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Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual.
THE BAKBER.
"By whose decrees, our sinful souls to save.
No Sunday tankards foam, no barber shave." — Bykon
The occupation of barber is an institution of civilized life, and is only known among those nations that have made a certain pro- gress in civilization. It is referred to by the prophet Ezekiel: "And thou, son of man, take thee a barber's razor, and cause it to pass thine head and upon thy beard." (Ezek. v. i,) We do not read of barbers at Rome until about the year of 454 of the city; but there, as elsewhere, when once introduced, they became men of great notoriety, and their shops were the resort of all the loungers and newsmongers in the city. Hence they are alluded to by Horace as most accurately in- formed in all the minute history, both of families and of state. But in early times, the operations of the barber were not confined, as now, to shaving, hair-dressing and making of wigs; but included the dressing of wounds, blood-letting, and other surgical operations. It seems that in all countries the art of sur
Pailer Tiii-tnictdr and Toilet Manual
gcry and the art of shaving went hand in hand. The title of B-Chirurgeon, or B-Surgeon, was generally applied to barbers. The B — of London, were first incorporated by Edward IV, in 1 46 1, and at that time were the only persons who practiced surgery. The barbers and the surgeons were separated, and made two distinct corporations; in France, in the time of Louis XIV, and in England in 1745. The sign of B-Chirurgeon consisted of a strip- ped pole from which was suspended a basin; the fillet round the pole indicating their riband or bandage twisted round the arm previous tc blood-letting, and the basin or vessel for re- ceiving the blood. This sign has been gener- ally retained by the modern barber. In our country, nevertheless, it is only occasionally that the basin may be seen hanging at the door of an old barber's shop. The character of the barber is amusingly illustrated in one of the tails of the Arabian Nights entertainments and has been immortalized by Beaumarchais,
Mozart and Rossinni, under the name of Figaro.
Barber instructor and Toilet Manual
STROPPING THE RAZOR.
The best strop in use known to the barber fraternity is the genuine Russian leather strop, the price of which is from $i.oo to $1.25 each, and will last a person a life time if proper care is taken of the same. There are cheaper strops on the market, such as horse hide and the different kinds of common leather strops which seem to be very good, but in our mind there is nothing equal to the genuine Russian leather strop.
In stropping hang your strop in a good firm position, either on the side of your chair or on your bench where it will be the proper height. Draw the razor from the heel to the point making same strokes from right to left. It is well after you take your razor from the hone to strop it very gently on the leather before putting it on the canvas, for which use only the genuine Russian leather strop. In stropping, after making a few strokes to temper the edge on the leather, then strop gently on the canvas, then again on the leather until you get the edge tempered in
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
shape. Do not shave a right hard beard as ic may crumple \our edge, but strop gently, shaving an eas)- man first until you can judge the tempering of the razor and then you can shave the hardest beard with perfect ease.
INSTRUCTIONS IN HONING.
Great care and caution should be taken in honing a razor. We will endeavor in these instructions to give you the method of honing, on the three principle hones, used at the pre- sent time, namely: lather hone, or what is known to some barbers as the hickory hone. The water hone has been in use a great many years. Having used this mostly in my busi- ness for the last twenty-five years, I will commence giving you instructions on the water hone. The water hone is of German origin and you will find it used by Germans, more so than any other class of barbers. To hone a razor however, it should be done when the barber has no care on his mind, and not when customers are waiting, nor when he has any other business to occupy his mind. An
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JJarber Instructor and Toilet Manual
old sayinor that I remember when I was a boy, "That a sharp razor was half the shaving, and a well lathered and soft beard the other half."
HONING ON THE WATER HONE.
Balance the razor carefully on the fore- fingers for honing; commence at the heel and draw the razor diagonally across the hone to a point toward the edge as in following cut,
running up so that it will be in the same posi- tion on the left side as it was in starting from the right. Draw dow^n w'ith the same weight and pressure on both sides, being careful to make the licks from right to left exactly the same, thereby keeping the bevel the same on both sides of the razor. Now, look at your
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
razor occasionally as you hone and see that the bevel is the same on both sides. Keep the hone well dampened with water and rub it occasionally with the rubber for the purpose of making a thick gray paste. After you think you have honed a sufficient length of time draw your razor across your finger nail, then if it presents a sticky feeling like the keen edge of a knife on your finger you should know that you have honed sufficient. If, however, niches are still on the edge you will have to hone until they disappear. After you have honed a short time feel the edge with your finger and if it draws all the way long even and smoothe you may know that you have your razor in shape to put on your strop. If the razor is new and well ground, very little honing will be necessary on any hone as it is more likely to be worse for the razor and it is very hard to get into condition again, when once over-honed.
Barber iiislnictor and Toilet Manual
THE LATHER HONE.
The lather or hickory hone, as it is known to a large number of barbers, is in general use throughout the country, and is one of the principal hones now in use. Its origin is Belgium, and it is a manufactured hone. It is manufactured by the process of petrification. You use lather on this hone exclusively; also some use oil to a good advantage. You com- mence honiuLT the razor in the same manner as on the water hones. Hone from the heel to the point, same asin cut shown previous. Then turn razor in fingers, then turn razor around so that both back and edo-e touch on the hone. Draw carefully if the razor is very dull give it a great many strokes from right to left to get it in the right condition, but as I say if the razor is in fair shape it will need very little honing. Keep testing the razor so that you know when the edge is in good shape, and keep putting lather on hone. In this way you will feel if it is cutting the same on both sides. Test the razor the same way as you did on the water hone. Feel it with your fingers occas-
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
ionally to sc? if you have honed sufficient, also draw jrently across your fini^ers to see if it feels sticky and holds fast to your fingers, the same as in honing on the water hone.
THE SWATY HONE.
This is comparatively a new product. It was invtMited by Francis Swaty, of Veinna, and is practically more in use now than any other used, and when in good condition it takes very little honing I will give you in- structions pertaining to the Swaty hone.
1 . — The two sides of the alumine hone differ in roughness, the side marked with the firm is the sharper one.
'2. — Half hollow or thick razors must be honed first on the rougher surface, but not too long, and then on the finer surface as described in article 3.
3. — On the finer side only the thin hollow GROUND razor can be honed in the followino^ manner: Put the razor with the back flat on the hone as shown before in cut, and draw the razor three or four times against the edge;
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
when drawing back, the razor must be turned on its back. Then try the edge. Should it not be sharp enough try the same process again until the required sharpness is produced.
4. — Honing can be done with oil, water or soap suds.
5. — Should the rough side, by long use get too smooth rub it when dry with rough emery paper or with a flat piece of pumice stone and plenty of water.
6. — Should the finer surface by long use get too smooth rub it gently at first with fine emery paper.
The price of the Swaty hone is 50c to $1.00. The price of the hickory hone runs from 75c to almost as high as a person wants to go, according to size and quality, etc. In buying a good hone the price should be no object; of course, the higher price you pay for a hone the better hone you obtain. It is well to go a great deal on the judgement of the supply man in buying a hone as they handle them every day and have experience which the gen- eral public cannot obtain.
liarbcr Jnstructor imd ToiJot Manual
SELECTING A RAZOR.
There is so man)- ^ood l)rands of razors on tlic inarkc^t at tlic present time that it is hard to tell which is the best, Ihe foUowini^'- is the names of some of the leadiniL^ brands: Blue Steel, Bismarck. Cosmos, IMars Razor, Nancy 1 ianks; all ol whicii arc: sold here in Kansas City. The same applies to razors as to hones. These razors are all i^'-uaranteed b)' the supply man and if you do not (^et a good razor at first they will allow ) ou to exchange until you do get a good one, which is absolutely guaran- teed. As I have stated before you should put a great deal ol conhdence in the supply man in regard to picking out a good razor or gel some expc;rienced barbc^r who has been used to handling razors to select for ycni or tell \ou souK^thing about them. There is but one wa)' of telling however, and that is by thoroughly testing it, which they will all allow you to do.
I5)irl»<'i- liislriiclor mid 'I'oilol MjiiiidiI
THE ART OF SHAVING.
The first very imj)ortanl thing- is to get your man in a nice cotnlortal)k; and easy ])()si- tion in the chair. Put a towel down around his neck, using a clean towel for (;ach man. Rinse th(! cup or mug out for ev(;ry man thoroughly. Put the water in th(; mug, then turn it out so that all will run out hut what will stay on the brush, then make the lather. Commence lath- ering on the right cheek, holding your ihumb to the ear so as to keep the lather from going into the ear, then lather the left side in the same manner. Rub the lather over the face taking the brush in your left hand and rub gently with your right across the chin bcn'ng careful not to get the lath(;r too far down on neck or too far up on the cheek. Never be in any hurry in lathering. Rub until the beard is thoroughly softened. An old saying is ''A man well lathered is half shaved." 'Flu; same proverb is true to day. After you have; your man well lathc^red, wipe your hands perfectly
dry. It is well to have a small chunk of alum on which you can rub your hands before taking
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
the razor in your hand. Strop your razor according to instructions on stropping. If the lather becomes dry while you are stropping your razor put on more lather until it is soft- ened sufficient. Lay your paper on his breast. Now, you are ready for shaving. Take your razor and balance it on the three fingers, with the little finger over the top of the handle and thumb on side of the blade known as move- ment No. I. With this stroke shave down toward the side of the face, stretching the skin with the little finger of the left hr.nd; shave down half way to the point of the chin. Wipe your razor turning the thumb on the other side and follow movement No. 2. then with this stroke shave to the point of chin. Wipe your razor again, commencing at the point of chin changing your razor to movement No. i , shaving down the point of chin to the throat, going down shaving with the grain. Wipe off your razor, commence at the bottom and shave up with the grain until you meet the place left off in shaving down. Turn the head over gently by placing the left hand back of the
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
ears. Shave; down the left cheek backhanded using movemetifrNo. 2, then chancre again to rfiovement No. i, shaving down to point and across the chin, then go back to move- ment No. 2, commencing at the point of chin on the left side same as instructions on shaving the right side, draw straight down the throat with the grain, then you change usmg move- ment No. 3 on the neck. Let the little finger drop over the handle of razor, holding it with the fore finger and press the thumb on top of the blade. Use this movement in shaving on the neck all the time pushing the razor toward the chin. In r.having the upper lip take razor in position, place your finger against the top of the nose, thumb on the chin. Make gentle strokes, shaving the right toward the left and the same on the left side. If you cannot reach all the hair with motion No. 2, change with your finger stretching the lip and use move- ment No. I for finishing the bottom. After you have gone over the face the first time get a clean cloth or towel, wet in warm water and wash the face. It is a matter of taste and
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
practice as to the position in which you hold the towel. Some perform the operation by puttin^^ the towel around the face and rubbing, while others take the towel between the first and second finger and wrap it around the hand. But as I have stated before, it is merely a matter of taste and practice with the artist. In shaving the face over the second time take your razor in the right hand and with the two little fingers on the handle, then take your bottle between the first two fingers, putting water on your left hand sufficient enough to get face well moistened for shaving the second time over. In this operation you can shave diagonally against the grain at the same time rubbing the face well and stretching the skin with the fingers of the left hand, feeling for the beard that has been left from the first time; in this the second time you go against the grain, shaving in this manner only when it is the wish of the customer, as it often times makes the face sore, and as it only makes a difference of a couple of hours after being shaved. In shavinor the second time over use
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
m
ostly movements No. i and 3. After you have finished shaving take and wet your towel in warm water, and lay it across the face, but not covering- the mouth and nose, as it effects their breathing and is very disagreeable; re- peat this operation two or three times if nec- essary. Some patrons are willing to pay extra for hot towels. Now take your bay rum bottle in your left hand, putting bay rum on the face with the right hand, rub gently and then put your towel over the face, the one you have been using, being particular not to pull it out so that the water will not run down the neck, then wipe the face thoroughly dry, using the towel as a fan to assist in drying the face. Then rub the face with the towel until you are thoroughly satisfied it is perfectly dry. Put on your powder, doubling the towel so as to make a puff, straighten your man up in the chair and you are now ready to comb his hair, etc
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
INSTRUCTIONS ON HAIR CUTTING.
In cLittine H'lir there are no deffinent names settled on as to the different styles of hair cutting. Each supply house gets out a style plate of its own. I herein introduce thirty-six different styles, which will be of great advantage to patrons to select from. I find that the best success is attained by cutting the hair according to the customer's wishes, regardless or style plate or names. It has been my purpose to dispense with clippers as much as possible in teaching hair cutting, as I find that when a new student commences to cut hair; it is so much easier to cut with the clip- pers that he wishes to use them all the time; which is a very bad habit. In cutting hair it is always advisable to leave as much hair on the customer's head as possible. Trim it up nicely with the shears, so that the barber can get him again as a customer. For example, if he should cut the hair with the clippers in the spring, it would probably be the only hair cut that he could get from that man during the season. While if he trims it around the neck
Barber Instructor and l^oilet Manual
and ears he would possibly get to trim that man's hair as often as once a month, right along, and he would also get it dirty, and it would have to be shampooed much more frequent then if he cuts the hair close with the clippers all ov^er the head. It would be no trouble for him to wash his hair every time he washed his face, therefore, the barber would loose the chance of Sea Foam or Shampoo. In cutting hair place your hair cloth or apron tight around the neck sitting your customer straight up in the chair. Commence to trim on the right side over the temple and around the ear. Hold your shears with the thumb and third finger of the right hand, comb between the first two fingers and thumb of the left hand. Comb the hair down to straighten it out. Commence trimming across from temple to ear, making it the same on the lower and higher part according to the way the customer wishes it done. Great care should be taken in trimming around the neck,
Because a good trim around the neck with the razor sets off a hair-cut better
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]5arber Instructor and Toilet Manual
than anythinor else. You might number the hair-cuts in this manner: No. i, for a close cut with the cHppers. No. 2, for a feather edge, or with the cHppers around the neck, fmishing with the shears. No. 8, for a shingle. No. 4, for a long trim. No. 5, for a bush or a buff cut as known to barbers. I will say something more in regard to hair cut- tmg in some of my future lectures. I will take up singeing, dying, blondining and shampoo- ing for my next lecture.
SEA FOAM, SHAMPOO, ETC.
Sea-foaming is performed by having your shampoo prepared according to receipt, which you will find in this volume. Put your sea foam on the head and rub it well until it makes a nice thick lather all over the head. In dry shampoo you keep rubbing it with your brush or fingers until the lather naturally evaporates then brush it good and wipe dry, with a clean dry towel. In shampooing use the shampoo paste, or shampoo fluid as the case may be, or as the barber sees fit. Put
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
on your shampoo paste, and water and rub it until you get the hair thoroughly lathered. Be careful to scratch the head well with your fin- gers or brush, getting all the dandruff out of the scalp, Fasten your towel securely around the neck, with the towel over the hair cloth. Secure the fastening so that it will not slip or come loose while the customer is taken to the water stand. Here you rinse his head thor- oughly with nice warm water, rubbing dry with a clean dry towel, while you have cus- tomer still bent over the wash stand. Then sit him back in the chair, again drying the hair. Put on your pomade and comb the hair as usual.
SINGEING.
Singeing the hair, although a very sim- ple operation, is claimed by most barbers to be very beneficial to the hair, as they claim it will stop the hair from falling out, and in many cases restore the hair. Singeing is done with a wax or gas taper. Some call them singeing tapers. They are for sale at all gas
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
fitter's establishments, and barber supply houses. You lig-ht the taper and commence singeing the hair usually after cutting the hair and in the same manner. Commence around the bottom being careful to get all the ends singed around the sides and top, more partic- ular on top where the hair is falling out. After the hair is thoroughly singed take your brush and rub it well to get the burnt ends off, also rub it with your fingers. It is a good idea if you can persuade your customer to have a sea-foam or a shampoo afterward. While we have always been in favor of singe- ing, it is our experience that the most benefi- cial results are obtained by the barber, there- by increasing his profits. Singeing is the same price as a hair cut, or shampoo, when hair- cutting is twenty-five cents, the same charge is made for singeing.
DYEING THE HAIK.
Dyeing is also a very simple operation and very profitable to the barber. You com- mence dyeing the hair after thoroughly wash-
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
ing it with soap and water, or shampoo. There is several kinds of dye in use, but I am unable to recommend anything equal to the old "lightning" dye. The receipt you have in this book. After you have thoroughly dried the hair put on No. i, combing the hair thor- oughly and when almost dry put on dye No. 2. This instantly turns the hair black and after you have thorougly combed this through the hair, getting it the same ill over, then take your fan and dry the hair, care should betaken in combing the No. 2 through the hair. If you should blacken the skin, these spots can be removed by burning common paper and rubbing the black ashes on the same, with a towel across the fingers before washing, then rub the skin where the dye has stained it putting on soap and water and washing it well, after doing this the stains will all disappear. After you have thoroughly dyed and washed it, if there should be small spots or places where it has not stained prop- erly, retouch it again with No. i, also No. 2, until you get the desired shade. Dry it again
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
then put on your pomade, oil, etc., and comb nicely and your job is finished. For this opera- tion you should get from $i.oo to $4.00. During the World's Fair at Chicago, I have known several barbers to charge as high as $15.00 for this operation, the customer not knowing what he was to be charged until the job was finished. At the present time when they think a customer is a stranger in the city and not liable to make any great kick they charge very high prices.
BLONDINING THE HAIR.
Blondining is performed in the same manner as dyeing, but instead of dye you use amonia. After washing the hair well, use weakened amonia. Let the hair dry then comb through it paroxide of hydrogen two or three times daily until the hair has attained the shade you desire. It will be necessary to comb the paroxide of hydrogen through the hair at least once a week to keep the hair the ghade you wish it.
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
STERILIZATION OF RAZORS.
Some barber asks information as to an antiseptic solution m which to dip razors. He finds that prparations he has used for this pur- pose corrode the steel. This is a difficulty well known to surgeons, and probably the best way to overcome it is by the use of heat. "Flaming" that is passing the Instrument repeatedly through a flame is ore way of effecting the destruction of disease germs, but if done thoroughly it may affect the temper of the steel. Boiling in water minimizes this difficulty, and instruments so treated prove efficient as to cut- ting power. The boiling must be long continued to prove wholly efficacious with all germs, including their spores; the process may be materially shortened by boiling under pressure so that the temperature of the water is increased; according to Sternberg, at tempera- ture of 22 1 F. the spores of bacilli will be de- stroyed by an exposure of ten minutes, and at a temperature of 230 F. the same result is attained in one or two minutes. Boiling steel
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
in pure water, however, causes rusting to guard against this about i per cent of pure sodium carbonate is added to the water. Complaints having been made that this was not always efficacious, Dr. Edward Andrews undertook some experiment some years ago regarding it on which he reported in the Journal of the American Medical Association. Plates of polished steel well washed with eiyther to re- move all oily matter from the surface, plates of aluminium and several scalpels with handles of different metals (so chosen to ascertain if galvanic action was a factor in the operation) were boiled in water with and without the addition of sodium carbonate, soap and other agents. From these experiments the author drew the following conclusions: i. Hot dis- tilled water and steam rapidly rust steel instru- ments. 2. One per cent, solutions of soap and sodium carbonate almost perfectly protect steel instruments, provided they are completely immersed in the lluid. 3. If instruments lie in a shallow boiling pan and are not fully covered with the protective lluid, and a cover or towel
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
is laid over them, the portions projecting above the fluid will only get a steam bath and will rapidly rust. This is the accident which has caused some to think there is no uniformity, about the action of protective fluids in prevent- ing rust. The fluids themselves will not cause oxidation, but the steam rising from them will easily corrode steel. The boiling process while simpler than immersion in solutions of antiseptics is probably more certain in its effects.
BAZORS.
The barber shaves with a polished blade,
While the milliner shaves when ladies trade: The banker shaves at ten per cent ;
While the landlord shaves in raising rent, The doctor shaves in draughts and pills,
While the druggist shaves in pints and gills ; The politician shaves the nation.
The preacher shaves for all salvation ; The broker shaves in cashing notes ;
While the farmer shaves in corn and oats ; The lawyer shaves both friends and foes.
The pedler shaves where e'er he goes, The wily merchant shaves his brother,
In fact you all shave one another.
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
GOOD ADVICE TO BARBERS.
Because you have been runniiiL^a "cheap" shop is no reason why you should so continue. Because you have only been running two chairs heretofore, is no reason why )ou should not be running- three, four or fivti by the end of the year. Because you have been making only 1 20.00 per week last year, is no reason why your profits this year should not average twice as much or more.
As a beofinnine, sit down for a moment and look around your shop. Is it spotlessly clean? Are all the tools neatly arranged, bottles well filled and hair-cutting cloths neat- ly folded and hung upon the chairs? Are the chairs attractive to the eye, comfortable to the occupant and up-to- date? Have you a regu- lar mirror case, or are you still clinging to the old-fashioned looking glass and bracket?
Questioning yourself in this way, and carefully looking into the numerous details that make up a successful barber shop, we are satisfied that you will find something that can
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
be improved upon. There is surely something that can be done to make each year more prosperous.
We are reminded of a conversation held a short time ago, with a barber from a large Texas town. When we had the pleasure of meeting him, he was in a very restless frame of mind. He said for years he had been run- ning a three chair barber shop, which was located in the residence part of the city in which he lived. He was doing a fair business, and as long as it did not grow less from year to year he had been satisfied, but, said he, "it suddenly dawned upon me that although the city had been rapidly building up around me, my trade had not increased at all. I awaken- ed to the fact that my weekly receipts are just about the same now as they were four years ago. I began to study the situation, and very soon learned that people in the neighborhood were walking right past my door and patron- izing a fellow two blocks up, the street. He had started up about a year ago and I had not paid much attention to him, but when I began
JJarber Instructor and Toilet Manual
to compare his shop with my own, I had to admit there was a difference. His shop was by far the more attractive, and you can depend upon it that first impressions go along way; but I've put in modern chairs now and a bright new mirror case, and the boys all wear white coats, and I guess we'll stop those people from walking past the door hereafter." This man woke up. Probably you, too, are doing well enough, but could you not dc better? Are there any customers walking past your door.'^
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
THE BARBERS' TRADE AS A LIFE CALLING.
There are few trades offering better in- ducements than that of the barber. Every- where in the civiHzed world he readily finds employment. It is not at all likely that the barbers trade will to any great extent ever be interfered with by machinery. The barber commands a good salary and steady imploy- ment. He is constantly surrounded by the current news of the day and always has time to read and keep abreast with the progress of the wdl'd. Barbers wages in the United States run from ten to eighteen dollars a week, owing to locality and other conditions.
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
A GOOD SUGGESTION TO THE BARBER.
The disadvantages of learning the bar- bers' trade in the shop are more numerous by far than is the case in any other trade; the principal one, however, is the useless length of time required to secure the necessary prac- tice. This is due to the fact that in no other trade does it require that pain must be suffered by the practice subject in order that the ap- prentice may learn it, and since practice can be had only at the cost of pain, the securing of practice becomes the chief problem of teach- ine the trade, and for this reason there are but few men who will ever submit themselves as practice subjects for the apprentice and pay for the work besides; and in a barber shop where all are supposed to pay for their work, men are generally to proud to become practice subjects in sonsideration of free service. Therefore, most of the practice had in a bar- ber shop is secured only by concealing the fact that the workman is an apprentice, and to hide this fact from outward observation, the pro-
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
prietor seldom goes about the apprentice to study and direct his movements, and which is the otily time that instructions in teaching the barbers' trade are of any value, and therefore the shop proprietor is precluded from per- forming his duties as an instructor. A patron finding himself thus imposed upon, is always liable to remonstrate against the deception, and the apprentice is therefore usually nervous and unfitted for receiving the benefit of his practice. Under these circumstances the in- structions are very infrequent and much that is recived by way of instruction at one time is forgotten by the next. By computing the time occupied in actual work at -the chair dur- ing the usual appreticeship, it is found in most cases not to exceed three months. To avoid serving these years of misdirected drudgery, and the other numerous drawbacks, the barber school was established in many of the leading capitals of Europe for the purpose of teaching the trade, and where it has proved to be the most gracious liberator of shop drudges of all the trade-schools yet known and is therefore
Barber Instructor and Toilet Mjinual
greatly encouraged. The barber school of Berlin, Germany, catalogued 399 students in 1885, and another at Prague, Austria, listed as high as 107 students in 1888. Two barber schools were established by private enterprise in the City of Brussels in 1897 and have been subsidized by the Belgian government.
Mr. Richard T. Auchmuty, an able American authority on the subject of trade education, has stated the situation very pre- cisely, and in a few words. He says: "One of the accepted theories of the trades-union is the advantage to be derived from limiting the number of workers. Instead of the fact that work makes work, that one busy class gives employment to other classes, it is assumed that there is a certain amount of work to be done and the fewer there is to do it the higher wages will be. It is therefore sought to make each trade into a monopoly; although these efforts have been uniformally unsuccessful, they have marred the lives of thousands of young men, and still continue to do so. Could the opposition of the trades-unions be over-
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual.
come, a great source of wealth would be opened to those now approaching manhood. The effect of this policy is a matter of indiffer- ence to the trade unionist, for he cares but little for the future; he looks only to the num- ber of dollars it is possible to extract from a day's work. He willingly surrenders his liber- ty and judgement to his union officers, who generally turn it to business or political profit for themselves,"
General impressions go along way in this world. A man may have some particular hobby and imagine, for instance, that he is not being properly shaved if the razor is not held in a certain position, or travels in a speci- fied direction, or is not stropped a certain number of times between the first and second goings over. He may have some particular idea upon some particular subject which he uses as a guage of the grade of barber shop he is in, but such a man is the exception and not the rule. The average man has a guage which he applies, but you will find that nine
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
times out of ten his eye rests first upon the barber's chair. If he sees an old fashioned, uncomfortable chair, a general feeling of dis satisfaction creeps over him. He begins to feel that the soap you use is not good, that your razors pull and that your after-shaving preparation is not pleasant. All this before he puth himself under your care. The sight of the old fashioned chair starts him off in a crit- ical, dissatisfied frame of mind. But if he sees a modern, up-to-date, bright, comfortable looking chair, the result is just the opposite. He does not look for trouble and is not in a criticising mood. Of course the soap is good, of course the razor is perfect, and the after- shaving lotion just suits him. He starts in on the right tract and there's everything in the start one gets always.
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
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Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual.
DISEASES OF THE HAIR AND DIRECTIONS FOR ITS MANAGEMENT.
There are numerous disorders of the hair, predisposing to baldness, ringworm, prema- ture gray hair, etc. Bodily infirmity, disease and mental irritation, sudden change of climate, have an injurious effect ugon the hair, owe their virulence and connection with diseases of the skin. The hair of the head may become weak and slender, and split at extremities, from a deficient action of the bulb, in consequence of debility or impaired vital power, frequently connected with disorders of the assimilating organs. To preserve the hair and keep it healthy, all excesses or extraordi- nary excitement should be avoided. Mental and bodily over-stimulation are injurous. An equable temperment of mind and body are essential to the health and beauty of the hair. Curling the hair in strong or stiff paper has a very injurious effect. The more loosely it can be folded or twisted, the better for its free and luxurious growth. Soft paper or silk, should be used for papillottes when curling the hair.
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
Those who wear the hair in bands and braids, ought to twist or fold it up very loosely at night, when retiring to rest. It should always be liberated from forced constraints and plaits. It must be well combed and thoroughly brushed every morning. After oil has been applied, the hair should be nicely smoothed with the palm of the hand. To prevent the hair from splitting, and to increase the length and strength, the ends should be tipped once a month. Many mothers cut the hair of their daughters when young, in the idea that it will prevent baldness, and cause it to grow longer, thicker and more abundant. This is a mistak- en notion: Cutting has a tendency to injure its beaty and retard its maximum growth. It is quite sufficient to tip or clip the ends once a month. Hair has turned gray in a single night, from the efiects of mental emotions and violent passions. Disappointment, bereave- ment, deep grief, intense care, produce devas- tating effects on the hair. Dr. Wardrop in his work on ' 'Diseases of the Heart," states that the changes which are induced by arterial
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual.
disturbance upon the cutaneous capillaries, are illustrated in a remarkable manner in persons where the hair of the head has suddenly be- come white, from increased action of the heart caused by violent mental excitement. He knew a lady who was so deeply grieved on receiving- the inteligence of a great change in he, worldly condition, that she had her dark hair changed into a sdver white in a single night.
Long hair is considered a special adorn- ment of woman. The beatiful features and personal attractions of the fair sex, are always enhanced by this ornament, Whether the auburn tresses fall in p^raceful fold, the rich and glossy curls are bound with roses, or "The long dark hair, floats upon the forehead in loose waves unbraided," either style will equally serve to set off the ensemble of female loveliness.
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
TO HAVE FINE THICK HAIR.
Curiously enough, women, as a rule, do not take proper care of their scalps and hair. The scalp, like the pores of the face, must be kept clean to be in a healthy condition. The head, if inclined to be oily, should be washed every week in summer time, if not, once in two weeks will do. The growth of hair in a healthy scalp is from eight to ten inches a year, growing faster in summer than in winter. The hair stretches in wet weather and shrmks in dry, which is the cause of artificially curied hair becoming straight in moist air.
If you use the curling irons during the summer, be sure to supply the follicles with a little extra nourishment in the way of a bril- liantine to make up for that which the heat abstracts.
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
The two following recipes furnish the best possible emollients, the first of which is non-greasy:
Lavender water, - i ounce
Gl}'cerine, - - i ounce
Clarified honey, - 2 ounces
Rectified spirits, - 4 ounces
First mix the honey and glycerine, then add the lavender water or eau de cologne and last of all the spirits.
The second recipe is intended to give a more or less glossy appearance to the hair, as well as to strengthen it.
Castor oil, - - 2 drams
Rectified spirits, - 5 ounces
Attar of roses to perfume,
Tincture of cochineal, 2 drams
The best way of using these preparations is to put a few drops into the palm of the hand and then rub the bristles of the brush across it, and so apply to the hair.
All greasy preparations, it must be re- membered, will darken the hair, as will also too constant and frepuent brushing; therefore
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual.
those whose hair Is very Hght should use the brush with moderation, employing a bomb with coarse, smooth teeth for the ventilation and disentanglement of their tresses.
Again, white of an Ggg, though excellent for cleansnig the hair tends to darken it. Those who have blonde, light brown, auburn or chestnut hair will do best to wash their hair with borax and warm water — an even teaspoon- ful of the former to a teacup of the latter. Rub this into the roots of the hair with a piece of clean flannel until every particle di dan- druff has been removad. Then dry it thor- oughly, allowing it to hang loose for an hour or two, and the next day — not the same re- member — rinse with warm water first, then in cold, and again dry thoroughly- — in the sun, if possible — and finally comb gently with a coarse-toothed comb.
This simple wash should not be used oftner than once a month. Borax should on no ac- count be used by those whose hair is gray or white, as it will tinge the hair yellow A little indigo put into the rinsing water for gray hair
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
imparts to it a most clean and beautiful ap- pearance and in no way injures it.
Brunettes can do no better than to use the rosemary wash, which not only cleanses but checks an)- falling out, especlall)' if this is oc- casioned by excessive heat of the scalp, or severe headaches.
Boil from six to eight minutes one pound of rosemary leaves in a quart of water, staining and adding a lump of champhor, and if the hair is inclined to be dry, a teaspoonful of co- coanut or olive oil.
Ammonia should be omitted from any recipe if the scalp is very dry. During the hot weather many people suffer from loss of hair, due to over heated heads which weaken the scalp. If this occurs, use the following hair wash every morning for a week, then three times a week:
Oil of sweet almonds - i ounce Spirits of chloroform - i ounce Laurel water - - i ounce
Spirits of rosemary - i ounce
Mix these ingredients carefully and dab
Barber Instructor and Tailet Manual
among the roots of the hair; a diminution in the fall will follow after a few days applica- tion.
To counteract the dryness and dandruff characteristic with so many heads of hair use the sage tea emollient;
Sage leaves (freshly gathered when possible) - - 1-4 pound
Boiling water - i pint
Stand on one side for a day and a half, then strain through filter-paper and add:
Glycerine - - i ounce
Spirits of rosemary - i ounce
Camphor - - 1-4 ounce
Use daily two w^eeks, and at night massage
the scalp with the promade below, putting a
small piece on the finger and kneading into
the roots.
Sulphate of quinine - 12 grains
Tincture of capsicum i drachm
Soft wool fat compound i ounce
To prevent the hair falling after severe
headache, excessive prespiration, or weakness
of the scalp caused by illness, try the following
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual.
lotion, which must be well rubbed into the roots of the. hair three or four times a week for a month or six weeks.
Eau de cologne,
Tincture of jarborandi,
Oil of lavender,
Oil of rosemary, A soft bristle brush and a
8 ounces
I ounce
i drachm
i drachm
course, blunt
comb are the only things that ought to be used on the hair. Violence breaks, splits and loosens the hairs, causing them to fall out. Never use a fine tooth comb; it irritates the scalp and frequently leads to disease. When- ever the hair looks ragged at the ends, cut off about an inch every new moon. This strengthens it.
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
DEKMATOLOGY.
Diseases affecting the skin. Some are of trifling character; others are symptomatic of grave internal derangements and are diffi- cult to cure. Many resemble each other and mistakes of identification are apt to occur.
That branch of science which treats of the skin and its diseases. The appearances of cutaneous diseases are very varied, but the usual classification, both in this country and abroad, is that of Willau and Bateman, com- prising eight orders: — (i) Papulae, or pimples; (2) Squamae, or scales; (3) Exanthemata, or rashes; (4) Bullae, or blebs, minature blisters; (5) Pustulae, or pustules; (6) Vesiculae, or vesicles; (7) Tuberculae, or tubercles, (8) Maculae, or spots. Dr. Aitkin gives the fol- lowing as the more common diseases of the skin: — Erythema, urticaria, nettlerash, lichen, psoriasis, herpes, pemphigus or pompholyx, eczema, ecthyma, acne. The parasitic diseases are ringworm, or tinea tonsurans, favus, and itch or scabies. Many of these appear in
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
combination, or as symptoms of general, con- stitutional, or febrile diseases; and, in addition to these, having- various forms of cutaneous manifestation, are syphilis, purpura, leprosy, scurvy, and the like, with bronzed-skin or Addison's disease (q. v.). But the classifica- tions are endless.
Under this head we will make a few re- marks and give a few of the best formulas m use for the cure of diseases most liable to come before the barber. We wish to state right here that after 30 years in the barber business we have failed so far, to have one case, so- called barber itch, called to our special atten- tion, therefore we think a great deal of the manifestations made by the Board of barber Eaxminers, and the Board of Health is unnec- essary. Cleanliness is next to godliness. There- fore if you keep your strops, razor and every- thing else connected with your shop clean, you will have no trouble with any of the contagious diseases. We find out that the best sterilizing agents are soap and water, soap being an anti- septic. However, the utmost care and caution
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
should be used after shaving one afflicted with sores or eruptions. The razor should be immediatly emreged in hot water and soap suds and thoroughly polished with a chamois skin or towel. This, however, should be done with all of your razors. Polish them every day thereby preventing them from becoming rusty. This should be done when you are through work at night. This precaution being taken, I will guarantee there will be no spread of contagious diseases. These formulas that we introduce here for the cure of baber itch, pimpler, eruptions, etc. are obtained from the best authorities on this subject, therefore we can recommend them without hesitancy as being the best curative agency of the present day.
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
APPLICATIONS FOR ROUGHENED SKIN.
For a ofood greneral emollient there is nothing probably better than glycerine; but it should alway be diluted before application, as if used too freely a' 'stickiness" results which is quite disagreeable. If the glycerine is sold un- diluted for toilet use, the customer should re- ceive instructions to put a few drops on his hands, for instance, while they are yet wet from washing, and then distribute evenly over the surface by rubbing, allow them to dry without the use of a towel. As a lotion for use in the ordinary way, the following is con- venient:
Glycerine - i Part
Rose water - 9 Parts
Plain water may, of course, be used as the dilutent, but a slightly prefumed pre- paration is generally considered more desira- ble. The perfume may easily be obtained by dissolving a very small proportion of hand- kerchief "extract" or some essential oil in the glycerine, and then mixing with plain water.
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
If it is desired to tint the liquid, this may be done by a minute quantity of cochineal color- ing, N. F., which will give a pink tint. Care must be taken not to use enough to cause staining of the skin. For a toilet cream adapted for dispensing in either collapsible tubes or in glass jars, the official glycerite of starch will answer. It is scarcely necessary to say that this is made simply by stiring to- gether lo grams of starch, 80 of glycerine and 10 c. c. of water, and heating gently until a jelly is formed. This jelly may, of course, be perfumed if desired. A little perfume is rather desirable, but an excess should be avoided. Many of the essential oils are suit- able for perfumes in this case, as are also handkerchief extracts. Another cosmetic is the so-called glycerine jelly, which may be made as follows.
Flake tragacanth, selected i dr
Water - 2 ozs
Glycerine - 2 ozs
Place the tragacanth in the water, stir from
time to time until a perfectly smooth mucilage
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
results and then incorporate with it the gly- cerine. As straining a mucilage of tragacanth is difficult if not impracticable without the use of a strong press, the operator should en- deavor to avoid a necessity for it, by using only the best articles of flake tragacanth, being careful to pick out pieces which are free from any specks of foreign material. If it be necessary, however to use gum the mucilage
from which will require straining, a large ex- cess of water may be employed, and this ex- cess subsequently driven off on a water bath. 1 he first procedure will presumably be the more satisfactory, at least for a small quantity. The formula given above yields a preparation which is quite firm; it may, of course, be ren- dered more fluid by the addition of either or both liquids. The jelly may be scented, if desired, by a few drops of oil of rose or other appropriate perfume, and a pink or read color given to it b)' cochineal coloring. An emol- lient tablet which has proved satisfactory, may
Barber Instructor and Toilet INIanual
be prepared by the following formula:
Mutton suet i8 ozs
Spermaceti - 12 ozs
White wax - 12 ozs
Oil of rose geranium - 3 drs
Melt together by a gentle heat, reserving the addition of the oil until the other ingredi- ents are liquified, on account of its volatility, stir well as the mixture begins to cool, con- tinuing until ready to set, when pour into molds. Yellow wax is preferable to white, the latter having a somewhat rancid odor. If a white preparation is desired, the wax must necessarily be white, and if a pink or red tint is wanted, the wax should also be white. The color may be given by infusing alkanet in a portion of the suet. The quantities given above will make from 24 to 26 tablets if cast in molds of i 5-8 by 2 5-8 inches square and 7-8 inch deep; a convenient and desirable size. The best material for the molds is block tin. Their form should be a pan, as indicated in the statement for measurement, the top side en- tirely open, and they should taper very slightly
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
on the side from bottom to top. A desirable arrangement is to have them so placed in a tray that they may be surrounded by cold water. The chief use of the tray is to enable the molds to be chilled before casting, which ren- ders adhesion of the tablets much less likely. Much cheaper though less elegant molds may be made of tinned iron, and the tray may be dispensed with. The usual way for putting up such tablets is to wrap them first in thin smooth paper, then in an outer covering of tin foil, and lastly to enclose in a paper box.
We wish to add in addition to the above article that there is no other preparation for roughened skin and chapped hands than our cream of roses or nothing better to be used after shavino-. It is coolino- and its curitive or medicinal properties are phenommal. We would not think of continuing in the barber business without this preparacion on hand for sale, it is easy prepared; keeps well and if displayed in small bottles with a nice showy lable. You will be surprised at the amount you will sell; especially in the fall of the year. I will not hesitate to say that I have sold hundred of dollars worth. You can do the same. It is my intention that this article will be useful to you.
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
THE MASSAGE,
There is an old story of an irreverent child, who, on being punished for some mis- deed by a supper of bread and water, phil- osophically remarked, ''This is a good thing for the digestion." On being whipped for such impertinence she placidly observed, "This is a good thing for the circulation." The ability or reasoning so correctly is not always vouchsafed to us early in life, but in later years we learn that good (circulation and good digestion are generally the fruit of the hardships rather than the "softships" of ex- istence. It is true that in moments of great gladness the blood circulates quickly. You feel it going up in a big wave to the face in an instant, and down to the feet in the next, as though every drop were running and leaping and praising God. But excitement, even the most pleasurable, has its period of reaction — exhaustion. Most of the days in the year are not exciting, and those who are troubled with
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
pale faces and cold extremities, who are chilly betvveen the shoulders and shiver over the fire in bad weather, often wish they could discover something permanently good for the circula- tion. Exercise is of course the great correct- ive, but indoor exercise does not seem to remove the trouble. Who has not heard a woman remark over her sewing, ' 'I thought it was a warm day when I was stirring about this morning, but now it seems actually chilly." Even after the brisk run so highly recom- mended for chronic chilliness, there is sure to be a rapid ebbing away of acquired warmth in the resultant fatigue. What is wanted is some method whereby the blood may be induced to flow to the cold blue-veined feet as habitually and abundantly as it runs to the usually over- heated head. Some form of friction-rubbing, beating, pinching, slapping or kneading-is the best for this purpose, because it does not leave one tired out, but rather rested and refreshed. It is the operator who is tired.
To lie on a couch swathed in blankets, from which now an upper limb, now a lower
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
limb is withdrawn, pale and dead-lookin, and tucked back warm and glowing, and to have the back, abdomen and chest scientifically and delightfully belabored is to feel that your pro- fessional nurse has richly earnad your dollar an hour. But in the country, where dollars and professional nurses are not very plentiful, it would seem as if delicate people might pro- fitably try self-treatment. Julius Caesar, we are told, had himself pinched for neuralgia. Had he been a less lofty personage he might have been reduced to the necessity of being his own pincher, and doubtless in that case the pinching would have been as thoroughly done. This sounds trivial, but there is more in it than at first might appear. One of that numerous class of women who are * 'just able to drag themselves around, " found that gen- eral stagnation was apparently her great trouble. She felt dull, heavy, lethargic, and even a short walk left her very tired. She procured a work on massage and practiced on herself a little at a time as she was able, always in a well ventilated room and well warmed in
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
winter. It has proved the very best of tonics, and she nows enjoys that sense of elasticity and aliveness in every fiber which indicates a close approach to a state of ideal health.
Massage can never take the place of ac- tive exercise, but it fits one to enjoy and get the later without danger of that great result- ant fatigue which is the bugbear of so many weakly people. And in times of seemingly over-work and exhaustion, "a good rubbmg down" is certainly as beneficial to the human frame as to the favorite race horse on the turf.
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
MANICUHING.
The professional 'cure or treatment of the hands and nails. To attend to the hand and nails. Treating the blemishes of the former and trimming and polishing the latter, etc. Quite an important side line m connection with the barber business is a manicuring and chiropodist department. This department should be a room fitted up for that purpose with a few manicuring tools, which is all that is necessary. A little practice will make you proficient and you will be surprised at the amount of money that you will make in this line. There is always some one to operate upon and always some one who is wishing to have work done if you have the tools to attend to same properly. We give you a number of recipes in this book which will enable you to carry on the business successfully. Alboline Oil is used for the massage, rubbing and tak- ing off the blemishes preparatory to treating the nails. It is also well to have some glycer- ine and lemon juice to take off the spots on
Barber Instructor and Toilet INIannal
the hands. The formulas found in this book are known to be the best preparations for the art of manicuring. Some people are subject more than others to the inconvenience and disfigure- ment of what are termed ' 'hang nails" which when attempted to be torn off, causes Severn pain. Various methods are resorted to for re- moving these pieces of flesh. Some bite them off, others cut and clip them, and others, again use the nails of the opposite hand. The best way is to loosen the membrane from the nail with some blunt instrument and afterward with a pair of pointed scissors to clip away the rag- ged flesh. When tbe membrane is too long, that is, when it grows up too high on the nail, it should be pressed back with a blunt instru- ment and clipped off with a pair of curved scissors. Every day when the hands are be- ine dried, the flesh at the base of the nail should be pressed back. If necessary, lift it previsously with an ivory manicure instrument. Care must be taken not to treat the the nail roughly or the risk of injuring the nail at the root is insured.
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
CHIROPODIST.
To remove Corns and Warts:
Gum Camph - i oz
Chi. Hydrate - i Dr
Chloroform - 20 Drops
Put small amount on each wart or corn; if the wart is larg"e, a lump about the size of a pea will be required. Light this with a match when it gets so hot that the person can't stand it longer blow out then light again so on until corn or wart is blistered, then you can remove it with the thumb or finger, or pinch it out. After you have it out put on the follow- ing, which will heal it up at once:
Gum Champhor - i oz
Crystal Carbolic Acid - i oz
This will heal any kind of an old sore. To make an anticeptic take one Dram of the above and 15 or 20 Grains of Crystal Cocaine. The doctor from which I obtained this formula sold it to the Dental Trade quite extensively. For the following receipt I paid $25. Prus-
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
sian Tonic Luster and Dandruff Shampoo: Bay Rum - 8 oz
Alchol - 8 oz
Tr Cantharides - li oz
Lavender Camp Spts. 2 oz
Aqua Ammonia - 2 oz
Mix use and rub until you have it damp. Use once daily until hair has stops falling out — when the hair is falling out badly add ten Grains Tanic Acid.
The method used by regular Chriopodist is as follows in removing corns. Solution for softening corn before removing with the corn razor:
Alcohol - li oz
Carbolic Acid 70 Drops
Menthal - 70 Drops
Crystal Cocaine 20 Gr
After the corn is removed use the following
either with cotton or a small camels hair brush
this forms a new skin or blister which protects
the tender flesh until new skin grows to take
the place of the corn. If you should cause
the corn to bleed (which you should not do if
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
you are careful in taking it out) use Marsillo solution of Iron, which will immediately stop the blood:
Colodian - 4 oz
Carbolic Acid - i 1-2 oz
Sub. Either - 2 oz
Canna Biscindica, - 2 oz
To remove or cure Proud Flesh use Burnt
Alum. For ingrowing toe nails use Brosic
Acid. The best cure for Bunions is pure
Skunk Oil.
Probably there is no little thing which causes so much annoyance and, in many cases actual pain, as corns upon the toes, between the toes, or upon the bottom of the foot.
Many people suffer the pain and annoy- ance and other serious results from corns for years, and after trying the many lotions, salves, ointments and many so-called eradicat- ors, without cure or relief give up the hope of a final cure.
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
PERSONAL MAGNETISM.
Before closine this book of instructions to barbers, 1 wish to make some observations on the subject of Personal Magnetism as a very valuable aid to the tonsorial artist, from a social as well as a financial standpoint. Any one who, but causually observes, knows there is an immense difference in the attractive and repulsive qualities of different individuals. Some draw to them a host of friends whom they seem to absolutly control; others repel and arouse antagonism in most every one they meet. The first named class of people are usually successful m every aim of life and the other class are alway wondering why they are such failures in every avenue of life. The dif- ference in these two classes is all due to the presence or absence of that potent and somewhat mysterious quality called pesonal
magnetism. Now what is personal magnet- ism? We answer, it simply means psychic influence or technically, hypnotic power. It is the influence of mind over mind.
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
The person who posseses personal magnet- ism is consciously or unconsciously ^ a hypnotist. It may not be generally known that this power can be acquired and also that any sane person can learn it, and no one can exercise it more potently than the barber, be- cause, by the very necessities of his profession is compelled to come in close physical contact with his patrons. Manipulation about the head is part and parcel of hypnotic methods and no one in the world has a better chance to hyp- notice than the barber, and he can exercise this power without his subject knowing it. Nine tenths of the people are subject to the influence of personal magnetism or hypnotism and in this progressive age no business man can well afford to be without a scientific knowledge of it. A weak person who has mastered this science can control persons much stronger than himself. The author of this book is a graduate of one of the great- est psychic institutions in America, and has given years to the investigation and practice of personal magnetism and all hypnotic phe-
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
nomena such as hypnotism for parlor enter- tainments, hypnotism for the stage, hypnotism for the cure of all bad habits, hypnotism for the cure of all diseases, hypnotism for dental surgery, hypnotism for surgery and as a thera- peutic agent, hypnotism for social, educational or business advancement; also all about mag- netic healing; all about clairvoyance; how to diagnose diseases without asking a question also how to look into the present, past and future of any individual. In short how to make a success of life in every particular. We will ask you to try the following experi- ment in proof of the reality of personal mag- netism. Suppose a person comes to you with the headache. You will say to him I will cure you without medicine; all I ask of you is to close your eyes and let me stroke your head for a few moments and your headache will certainly pass away. Now stroke his head gently, backward and downward from the middle of the forehead to the region of the temples, while you will with all possible mental energy that his headache shall cease,
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual.
and ninty-nine cases out of a hundred you should reheve or cure your patient. Try this and then take a course in personal magnetism, and hypnotism and learn how to perform a thousand very useful, profitable and instructive experiments. Will you do it? Our new book of instructions gives you every advanced method of psychic science; and when you master its contents, which are plain and sim- ply given, go forth into the world and in the language of the Emperor Constantine: ^ '*In this sign I conquor, " or in the words of Ceasar you can say: "Veni vidi vici". "I came, I saw, I conquered." So barber if you would succeed and in your business quickly speed, learn how to exercise control of other minds, thus reach your goal.
^
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
Of a roving disposition, I have traveled a great deal, and in my travels have had a pen- chant for visiting barber shops in different places. Noticing the different ways of doing the same thing in different shops, and have been struck with the ease and expedition with which the work is disposed of in the ''progres- sive shop," and of the loss of time and "botch" work turned out in the "let- well-enough-alone" shop. Let-well-enough-alone" was a good maxim in the days of our forefathers, but in these days of strong competition and the sur- vival of the fittest, I have noticed that the "let-well-enough-alone" shop is rapidly falling behind the shop which is constantly reaching out to "do better and more of it;" and how can one "do better and more of it" without adopt- ing the latest methods and up-to-date styles in chairs, tools, workmanship, etc. I
observed in many shops that I have visited re- cently, having had limited acquaintance with a number of them for years, that they have made no strides in the march of progress,' but are still clineinfr to the old fashion break-
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
back chairs, do work along the same old fashioned lines, bragging about what they have been or what they used to do, kicking about things that they cannot help, many times intemperate, spending money for drink instead of improving their shops and making things look better and brighter. They are simply ' 'has beens" of the first water, and should be out of the business to make room for the more up to date, industrious, reliable, sober and "want to do better" barber of the modern type. In concluding this little work on which we have spent much time and energy getting together the information which we hope will be of unlimited value to those for which it is intended, we trust that the read- ers will not, after readmg this little book, continue in the "let well enough alone;" but will reach out, keeping pace with the march of time, and that you will have been benefited through our endeavors, and that it will be received in the same spirit that it was given- *' Peace on earth, good will to men."
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual.
UP=TO=DATE
FORMULAS
FOR
TOILET ARTICLES.
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
BROWN DYE.
This is the latest and greatest discovery of the age in dyes; is a perfect dye. Beautiful Brown and more durable than Black dye, and contains only one solution.
Nitrate of Silver, - i ounce
Aqua Ammonia, - 2 ounces
Sodium Carbonate, - i^ drams Distilled Water, - 5 ounces
Dissolve silver in 4 ounces water and add ammonia until entirely dissolved. Then dis- solve the soda in this solution and add water to make 6 ounces. Let stand 48 hours and decant or strain. Wash mustache or hair thor- oughly with good sea-foam or shampoo, re- moving all grease or dirt and apply.
"ONE SOLUTION BLACK DYE."
Nitrate of Silver, - i ounce
Nitrate of Copper - 15 grains
Water of Ammonia - 2 ounces
Dissolve the silver and copper in 4 ounces
of distilled water, then gradually add the
water ammonia until the solution is re-dissolved
then add water to make one-half pint.
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual.
BROWN DYE.
Pyrogallic Acid, - i ounce
Olive Oil, - - i ounce
Lac. Sulphur, - i ounce
Rain Water, - 8 ounces Mix, apply as other dyes.
HARDENING RAZORS.
Acetic Acid - i ounce
Water sufficient to immerse blade. Leave in both twenty-four hours.
CREAM OF ROSES. Glycerine, - li pounds
Witch Hazel, - i pint
Borsoek Acid, - 2 ounces
Alcohol. - - i pint
Juice or one Lemon. To be used for chapped face and hands, thicken with Gum Trag. disolved in warm water to a desiree thickness. Color with car- mine red if desired.
BLONDINE.
Peroxide of Hydrogen 8 ounces
Apply as other dyes.
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
HAIR DYE.
Dissolve 2 ounces of Pyrogollic Acid in a mixture of Alcohol of 94% and 18 ounces of Distilled Water. This is the Mordaunt, and the Dye is prepared as follows: Dissolve i ounce of Nitrate of Silver in 8 ounces of Distilled Water and add 2 ounces of Ammonia F. F. F". Both solutions should be kept in glass stopped bottles.
TO PREVENT BALDNESS.
Cod Liver Oil, - 10 parts
Onion Juice, - - 10 parts
Yolk of one Egg. Mix, shake before using and apply once a
week. Gum Arabic may be used in place of
the Yolk of Egg.
HAIR BLEACH.
There is no formula given with the Hair Bleach. Hydrogen Paroxide is the most efficient bleach and forms the basis of most of the articles sold'for this purpose. The com- mercial article should be freely diluted before using and the hair should be free from all grease, etc. , by washing with warm suds.
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
SHAMPOO.
Boracic Acid, Sal. Tartar, Sulph. Ether, Rain Water,
2 ounces
I ounce
i ounce
I quart
BEILLIANTINE.
Glycerine, - - i ounce
Alcohol, - - 5 ounces
Rose Water, - i ounce
Oil of Bergamot, - lo drops
FACE CREAM.
Hydro Chlorate of Ammonia 4 parts Dilute Hydro Chloric Acid, 5 parts Lait Virginal, - 50 parts
Glycerine, - - 30 parts
FRECKLE CREAM.
Quince Seed, • ^ ounce
Chloride Ammonia, - ^ ounce
Cologne, - - I ounce
Hot Water, - - i pint
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual.
SHAMPOO MIXTUBE.
Extract of Guilloys Fluid 14 parts Cologne Water, - 13 parts
Glycerine, - - 8 parts
Alcohol, - - 30 parts
Rose Water, - 35 parts
SHAMPOO MIXTURE. Borax, - - i2 parts
Ammonia Carbonate, - 3 parts Tinct. of Cantharides, - 6 parts Glycerine, - - 12 parts
Water, - - 450 parts
Alcohol sufficient to make 1000 parts
TALCUM POWDERS.
• Talcum Powder, - 10 ounces
Rice Flour, - 10 ounces
Zinc Oxide, - 5 ounces
Orris Root, powdeaed fine i ounce
Mix well and perfume with a mixture of ' 'Oil Bergamot, Neroli and Ylang Ylang,
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
DEPILATORY, to Remove Superfluous Hair.
Barium Sulphide, - 2 parts
Zinc Oxide. - - i part
Starch Powder, - i part
Mix and keep dry. When desired for use
make a paste of it with water and apply to the
part from which hair is to be removed, leave
on for ten minutes, then scrape off. This
usually acts at once, but if necessary appl)' a
second time. The hair will grow again, but
this is the case with all safe depilatories.
CREAM OF ROSES.
Gum Tragacanth, - i ounce
Warm Water, - i quart
Oil Roses, - 5 drops
Glycerine, - 3 ounces
Witch Hazel - 3 ounces
Alcohol, - - 3 ounces
Put the Tragacanth in the water, let stand
over night or until jellied, then strain through
muslin cloth and while warm add the other
ingredients. Bottle, label and put away in a
cool place.
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
CAKBOLINE HAIR GROWER.
Promotes a healthy growth of hair on heads where there is fine and thin hair.
Neutral Paraffin Oil. 8 ounces
Tr. Cantharides, - 7 drams
Euphorbium. - 10 grains
Oil Rosemary, - - 2 drams
Oil Cassia, - 10 drops
Oil Cloves, - 3 drops
Heat the Euphorbium and Cantharides on
gentle heat for 2 hours, with the Paraffin Oil,
then add the other oils, and bottle. Rub head
thoroughly and apply once a day for three
weeks.
BAY RUM.
Oil of Bay, - 240 grains
Oil of Orange, - 16 grains
Oil of Pimento, - 16 grains
Alcohol, - - 32 ounces
Water, - - 25 ounces Dissolve the oils in alcohol and add the
water. Mix with 2 ounces of Precipitated
Calcium Phosphate and filter.
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual. HAIR RESTORATIVE.
Suofar of Lead, - i ounce
Borax, - - i ounce
Lac. Sulphur - - i ounce
Acqua Ammonia, - i ounce
Alcohol, - - - I gill
These articles to stand mixed fourteen hours then add:
Bay Rum, - - i gill
Fine Table Salt, i table spoon
Soft Water, - " 3 pints
Essence of Bergamot, - i ounce
Manner of using. When the hair is thin or
falling out, make two applications daily until
this amount is used up, unless that hair has
come out sufficiently to satisfy you before that
time. Work it to the roots of the hair with a
soft brush or the ends of the fingers, rubbing
well each time. For gray hair one applicaiion
daily is sufficient. It is harmless and will do
all that is claimed for it.
FACE WASH.
Rose Water, - ^ ounce
Glycerine, - - i ounce
French prepared chalk ten cents.
Barber Tnstrsictor and Toilet Manual
EXTRACT OP MAGNOLIA PERFUME.
Extract of Orange Flower 64 parts " " Rose - 128 parts
*' " Tube Rose 64 parts
'' " Violet - 32 parts
Mix and to each quart of mixture add 10 drops of Oil of Bitter Almonds and 4 drops of Oil of Lemon. The extracts used in this are all from the pomade of the flowers named.
BANDOLINE.
A face balm of exquisite merit; is cooling, soothing and healing qualities are unsurpassed by any face preparation on the market. Gum Trogacanth - 2 drams
Rose Water, - 10 ounces
Alcohol, - 4 ounces
Otto of Roses - 15 drops
Macerate the gum in the rose water until dissolved, strain and add the alcohol to Otto Roses, then mix all and bottle; color red with few drops Tincture Cochineal.
Barb(X>r Instructor and Toilet Manual
HAIR TOinC.
TInct. of Cantharades, Sulph. Quinine, Lac. Sulphur, Bay Rum, Apply twice daily.
^ ounce I drachm i^ dracm 8 ounces
DANDERINE.
Hydrate Chloral, Bay Rum, Apply daily for one week, week.
I ounce 6 ounces then once a
SHAMPOO PASTE.
Conti Castile Soap, - 4 ounces
Pottasium Carb. - i ounces
Rain Water, - - 6 ounces
Oil of Lavender, - 5 drops
Oil of Bergamont, - 10 drops
To the water add the soap in shaving and
then the pottassium. Mix until creamy, then
^add perfumes. The addition of glycerine
prevents hardening.
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
BEAUTIFYING THE SKIN.
For beautifying and taking wrinkles out of
the skin:
Glycerine - - 3 ^^
Parafin wax - 2-3
Mix and heat in a tin pan then add i oz
Bergamont, run off in tin can or glass botte.
To be used after washing the hands and face
at night. Excellent for chapped hands or face.
NAIL POLISH.
Tartaric Acid, - i dram
Tincture of Myrrh, - i dram
Cologne Water, - 2 drams
Water, - - 3 drams
Dissolve the acid in water; mix the tincture
of myrrh and cologne water and add to the
acid solution. Apply with a bit of soft leather.
FURNITURE POLISH.
Gum Shellac, - i ounce
Alcohol, - - 8 ounces
Linseed Oil, - i ounce
Mix, apply with woolen cloth.
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
DEPILATORY.
Quick Lime, - i ounce
Gum Benzine, - i ounce
Water sufficient to make a paste, Apply and brush off in ten minutes.
BEST HAIR OIL.
Pale Yel. Cotton Seed Oil, 8 ounces Bay Rum, - - 8 ounces
Add perfume to suit.
BAY RUM.
Soft Water, - 8 ounces
Alcohol, - - 4 ounces
Oil of Bay, - 1-4 ounce
Add water to make one quart.
HAIR RESORATIVE.
Lac. Sulphur, - 8 drachms
Sugar of Lead, - 8 drachms
Glycerine, - 8 ounces
Bay Rum, - 8 ounces
Four spoonsful of fine salt and a few drops of Bergamot. Makes half gallon.
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
BOQUET COSMETIQUE.
Lard and mutton suet, carefully prepared I lb. each, white wax, 6 oz., melt over a slow fire; essence of Bergamot, i oz. run into moulds; wrap in tin foil; label and it is ready for use.
TO CURL THE HAIE.
Olive Oil, - - I pound
Oil of Organum, - i dram
Oil of Rosemary, i 1-4 drams
Mix, put small amount on hands, rub well into the roots of the hair.
RAZOR STROP PASTE.
Take the finest superfine flour of emery, nothing but the very finest will do, moisten with Sweet Oil or Vaseline. Mix, put in small boxes and it is ready for sale. There is nothing as good for your strops as elbow grease and lather.
VIOLET WATER, Finest Quality.
Extract Violet, with 4 parts dilute Cologne Spirits. Mix and bottle.
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
TONIC FOR THE HAIR.
A tonic for the hair is composed of Glycerine, - 1-4 ounce
Cologne, - - 6 ounces
Tinct. of Capsicum, 20 drops
Tinct. of Spanish Flies, i^ drams
CAMPHOR ICE.
For chapped hands or lips; can be used after shaving. Spermacetic Tallow, i^ ozs. Oil of Sweet Almonds, 4 tea spoons. Gum Camphor, 3-4 ozs, made fine, disolve over slow fire, stirring until disolved; pour into moulds if for sale; paper and tin foil if for your own use. Put in a tight box.
MAGIC LINIMENT.
Cotton Seed Oil, - 4 ounces
Powd. Castile Soap, - i ounce
Spirits of Turpentine, 2 ounces
Strong Ammonia Water, 4 ounces Water sufficient to make one pint.
This is a good seller when put up in nice- ly labeled bottles. Try it.
Barber Instructor arid Toilet Manual
TINEA TRICOPHYTIUA. (BARBERS lOCH.)
Characterized by itchincr erythematous redness and crop of vesicles followed by scaly formation. On scalp, hairs become brittle and break off. Stubble-like appearance. On body, spreads in fairy-ring-like manner. On head, split-pea or hazel-nut sized papules or tubercles appear. Hairs come out without pain. On nails, called Onycho-Mycosis. Fol- licles occasionally, pour out viscid mucus resemblingjuiceof the mistletoe-berry (Kerion) Contagious. Children of lymphatic tempera- ment. Tricophyton. In youth attacks scalp, or body. In adult life the beard. Fungus scales or scabs turn whitish yellow on addition of Chloroform.
Sepia and Tellurium (Ringworm). Merc, precip. ruber. Kali bich. Plantago. Tart, emet. ane Cicuta (Barber's Itch). Cocculus Indicus, ect. Epilation. Shaving every other day. Merc. corr. or Sulphurous acid lotion. Chrysophanic Cerate or White precipitate oint.
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
TOOTH WASH.
White Castile Soap,
Glycerine,
Water,
Alcohol,
Oil of Peppermint,
Oil af VVintergreen,
Oil of Anise
Oil of Cassia,
NAIL POLISH. Tartaric Acid, Tincture of Myrrh, Cologne Water, Water,
Dissolve the acid in the water; mix the tinc- ture ot myrrh and the cologne water and add
to the acid solution. Apply with a bit of soft leather.
MANICURE VARNISH.
Paraffin Wax, - 60 grains
Chloroform, - 2 ounces
Oil Rose, " " 3 drops
After polishing the nails, apply the varnish and rub with chamois skin.
3 ounces
5 il ounces
2o ounces
30 ounces
I dram
I dram
I dram
I dram
I dram I dram
2 drams
3 drams
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
TO CLEAN CARPETS.
Good for taking- out grease spots, paint, pitch, tar, and for cleaning clothing, gloves, hats, etc. This receipt has been sold all over the country, and has been a great money mak- er. It can be used for anything that soap is used for, and for taking off grease from the hands of machinests and railroad men it has no e(|ual. I give the exact formula as it was received by me from one who paid $50.00 for it.
l\vo Packages 76 Powder,
Shave up one bar of Ivory Soap,
One tea spoon Pulverized Alum,
Two tea spoon Borax.
Tea spoon Salt,
One gallon soft water, Stir all together; boil over a slow fire 30 minutes or until all the soap is thoroughly disolved. Directions for using: Take a large pan or bucket half full of water have a large sponge; take a hand full of the preparation work it into the sponge; make a lather until it fills pan or bucket, then use the lather for
Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual
cleaning the carpet; when you use up this amount of lather, work up more; washing the carpet all over with the sponge, the same as you would scrub a floor; let dry and it will be clean and look like new.
TO CLEAK WALL PAPER.
A preparation for cleaning wall paper is made of one quart of Rye flour, table spoon- ful of Plaster Paris; stir together; put in water enough to make a thick dough. Bake until done then it is ready for use. If it gets too hard wet with water; work it up like putty into dough balls. When you first use this, care should be taken not to streak the paper. This makes old dirty wall paper look like new at a very small cost and not much labor.
CORN CURE.
Soak a piece of copper in strong vinegar for twenty-four hours. Pour the liquid off, and bottle. Apply frequently till the corn is removed.
L;y XV I9UW
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS
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