ELAUTIFUL
LOY/ERS

AND'HOW-TO

GIFT OF
A. P. Morrison

BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

AND HOW TO GROW THEM

ANTIRRHINUMS (SNAPDRAGONS)
By E. Fortescue Brickdale

BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

AND HOW TO GROW THEM

BY

HORACE I. WRIGHT & WALTER P. WRIGHT
•f

ILLUSTRATED WITH 32 PLATES IN FULL COLOURS FROM PAINTINGS

BY BEATRICE PARSONS, ELEANOR FORTESQUE BRICKDALE,

HUGH L. NORRIS, MARGARET WATERFIELD,

A. FAIRFAX MUCKLEY, FRANCIS G. JAMES,

ANNA LEA-MERRITT, AND MARIE LOW

LONDON : T. C. & E. C. JACK, LTD.

35 & 36 PATERNOSTER ROW, E.G. ; AND EDINBURGH

1922

GIFT

PRINTED IN QREAT BRITAIN.

CONTENTS

K' '^ I. ^ • •••••••••...tl

BULBS. 28

HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS 61

ROCKERY PLANTS . . . ' 126

GREENHOUSE, CONSERVATORY, AND HOTHOUSE FLOWERS . 139

WINDOW AND ROOM PLANTS 186

THE CARNATION . . . . 201

THE DAHLIA . . . . 212

SWEET PEAS .227

ANNUALS * . . . .244

AQUATIC PLANTS 261

ARCHES, PERGOLAS, PILLARS, AND STUMPS . . . .267

BEAUTIFUL WALLS AND FENCES . 274

ORCHIDS 282

THE CHRYSANTHEMUM . 293

TENDER BEDDING PLANTS ........ 317

. x

FLOWERS FOR SUBURBAN GARDENS . . ... 349

M94349

H

ROSES V}Jfi>$*

THERE is a charm about a beautiful Rose garden which appeals
irresistibly to every lover of flowers. It is not necessary to win
a prize at a Rose show to enjoy Roses when they are used in free,
informal, natural ways. There is a wide gulf between exhibiting
and gardening. The exhibitor of Roses does not keep beautiful
garden effects constantly before him, and plant and prune in such
a way as to form pleasing garden pictures ; he aims at producing
a limited number of flowers of a particular type. For this reason
people who love Roses must not allow themselves to be unduly
influenced by what they see and hear at shows. They must learn
about beautiful garden Roses — what they are, and how to manage
them in order to get lovely garden scenes, together with abundance
of flowers for bowls and vases.

There should be nothing stiff, stilted, and formal about Roses,
whether in the growing of them, the utilisation of them, or the
writing about them. We should look upon them as cheerful,
delightful, affectionate companions. To put the trees in stiff rows,
grow them on a level, and prune them back to mere stumps, like
a blackthorn hedge, is to rob them of all chance of showing
whether they possess natural beauty. And to write of Roses as
though they were mere automata, devoid of all sentiment, of all
power of appeal to our finest feelings, is to put them on the same
plane as mangold wurzels.

Beauty create^ beauty. Who can look on a picture of a beautiful

2 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

garden without feeling an impulse to grow flowers — not merely
to put them into the ground, but to arrange them in such a
way that they form harmonies of form and colour? That im-
pulse conies to the meanest of human beings, and it proves two
things : the first, that poor, wayward humanity is capable of being
swayed by emotions which make for peace and beauty ; the second,
that f&p&&- ft&Me, tthe power of awakening those dormant feelings.
A/gartJisrU .th'Sfti becomes more than a mere minister to the grosser
appetites.' It 'is hot simply an instrument of pleasure.

The Rose of our love is not the Rose of the show tent, but of
the flower-bed, arch, pillar, and pergola. It is the Rose that swings
golden, and pink, and crimson clusters lightly in the summer
breezes. It is the Rose of the Rubdiydt of Omar Khayyam :

" Look to the Rose that blows about us, Lo,
Laughing, she says, into the world I blow :
At once the silken tassel of my purse
Tear, and its Treasure on the garden throw."

it is the Rose of Shakespeare (Henry VI.):

"Then will I raise aloft the milk-white Rose
With whose sweet smell the air shall be perfumed."

It is the Rose of Dunbar, the Scottish poet, who wrote, long
years before Shakespeare was born :

" Nor hold none other flower in sic dainty
As the fresh Rose of colour red and white;
For if thou dost, hurt is thine honesty,
Considering that no flower is so perfite,
So full of virtue, pleasaunce, and delight,
So full of blissful, angelic beauty,
Imperial birth, honour and dignity.1'

We will learn a little about the most beautiful types of Roses,
and further, how to use them in the ways that Nature teaches.

We read of Perpetual Roses, Tea Roses, Hybrid Tea Roses,
Damask Roses, China Roses, Moss Roses, and Monthly Roses.

ROSES 3

But even these are not all, for we find a reference to the Austrian
brier, the Japanese Rose, the Provence Rose, the Macartney Rose,
the Ayrshire Rose, and the Evergreen Rose. Then we come to
others more forbidding, because botanical — Rosa multiflora, Rosa
IVichuraiana, and so forth.

There are folk who like to know something of the different
classes, and particularly of the Roses of great poets such as Shake-
speare. The Red Rose of the Bard, and his Provencal Rose, are
supposed to be the same, our Cabbage Rose (Rosa centifolia of
botanists).

His White Rose is supposed to have been a double form of
the wild wrhite Rose (Rosa arvensis).

Warwick's prophecy in connection with the scene in the
Temple gardens, where the flowers were plucked as party badges,
was fulfilled :

"This brawl to-day

Grown to this faction, in the Temple garden,
Shall send, between the Red Rose and the White,
A thousand souls to death and deadly night."

Sir John Mandeville's description of Damascus : " Non other
cytee is not lycke in comparison to it, of fayre Gardens, and of
fayre desportes," prepares us for the assurance that Shakespeare's
Damask Rose (Rosa Damascenes) came from Damascus. We may
well view this Rose with double favour, for it undoubtedly served
as one of the several parents of the greatest of all modern
classes of Rose — the Hybrid Perpetual.

The Musk Rose of Shakespeare is, of course, Rosa moschata,
which Hakluyt tells us in his l^oiages was "procured out of Italy,"
but is not confined to that country, as it has been found native
on the opposite side of the Mediterranean. The reader will recall
Bacon's glowing praise of this old flower: "That which above all
others yields the sweetest smell in the air is the Violet, next to
that is the Musk Rose."

4 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

The parti-coloured Rose which Shakespeare had in mind when
he wrote in the Sonnets :

" The Roses fearfully in thorns did stand,
One blushing shame, another white despair ;
A third nor red nor white, had stol'n of both
And to his robbery had annexed thy breath,"

must have been the York and Lancaster Rose, which most
authorities consider to be a variety of the Damask Rose, although
the Gloria Mundi Rose, which is also commonly grown under the
name of York and Lancaster, is a variety of Rosa Gallica.

Shakespeare's eglantine is the Sweet Brier (Rosa rubiginosd).
If he had lived to-day he would have loved the exquisite hybrid
Briers raised by the late Lord Penzance.

So much for the Shakespearean garland of beautiful Roses, and
now a word as to the various sections. The largest class is the
Hybrid Perpetual. Several species have been used as parents for
these, notably the China or Monthly (Rosa indica}, the Bourbon
(Rosa indica borbonicd), and the Damask (Rosa Damascend). The
term perpetual is used in connection with them because they
bloom twice or more in the year.

The next largest is the Tea, so called because the perfume of
the flowers resembles that of the "cup that cheers but not
inebriates." They also spring from a form of the China Rose
(Rosa indica odoratd).

The third largest class is the Hybrid Tea, and it has grown
rapidly during recent years. The varieties are cross-breds, probably
between Hybrid Perpetuals and Teas.

The Noisettes are not so numerous as the three foregoing
classes, but the section is important, because it includes several
beautiful climbing Roses which bear their flowers in clusters,
notably Mardchal Niel, William Allen Richardson, LTdeal, and
Alister Stella Gray. The origin of the class must be sought in
hybridisation between the China and the Musk Roses.

ROSES 5

The Moss Rose is a small but interesting section, derived from
a form of the Cabbage Rose (Rosa centifolia tmiscosa).

Of the remaining classes the most important is the Polyantha
Rose, which springs from Rosa multiflora (" many-flowered "). It
grew rapidly in numbers and value during the closing years of the
last century, and in view of the fact that it embraces the great
Crimson Rambler and its sister varieties, as well as the brilliant
Leuchstern, it is questionable whether it is not at least as valu-
able for garden decoration as the numerically stronger Hybrid
Perpetual s and Teas. The Polyantha Roses have special value
for the formation of charming garden pictures, as they are so suit-
able for arches and pillars.

By the same token there is another class, hitherto of little
note, which is now becoming valuable, and that is the Wichuraiana
Rose. The Americans have obtained some beautiful hybrids from it,
notably Dorothy Perkins, Lady Gay, and Hiawatha, and there can be
little doubt that it will increase in numbers and value every year.

This passing dip into the classes and derivations of Roses will
show that there is much of interest in the origin of our beautiful
modern flowers. But it will also show that the average flower-
gardener would be ill-advised to charge his mind with the task of
tracing the great classes back to their source. The latter is a
duty for the botanist, and it is not an enviable one, because there
has been an immense amount of crossing and inter-crossing, with
no accurate records to guide the inquirer. Those who love Roses
for their garden beauty will act wisely by contenting themselves
with the outline of Rose history here given, and proceed to con-
sider how they can best utilise the magnificent material which
awaits their attention.

Arches, Pergolas, and Pillars. — Our first requirement is an
arch, or a series of arches. Gardens are often divided into sections,
one of which may be a flower garden, a second a tennis lawn,
and a third a kitchen garden. It is a charming idea to make the

6 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

division between a flower garden and a lawn consist of a series
of arches, connected by side pieces, thus forming a pergola. And
there are no more beautiful plants for covering pergolas than
climbing Roses. The principal poles should be at least nine feet
long, so as to allow two and a half feet below ground and six
and a half feet above it. They may consist of larch or oak.
The former is not so durable as the latter, but if the part that

is to go below ground is charred,
soaked in petroleum, or barked and
tarred, the poles will last several
years. Larch has two great advan-
tages— straightness and cheapness.
These main uprights should be set
eight feet apart, and have the earth
well rammed round the base in
order that the framework of the
pergola may be rigid. The top and
side pieces may be much lighter.

Ready-made arches, both of rustic
timber and metal, can be purchased
at moderate prices, and these will
be admirable in suitable places, such
as over divisions of garden walks.
The suburban gardener who has not room for a pergola will not
despise these charming features.

Rose pillars are very beautiful, and they are quite inex-
pensive. Let the reader first imagine a stiff ribbon border, with
the plants all on a level ; and then imagine a border of various
kinds of plants, informal and irregular, with Rose pillars rising
here and there. How much more graceful and pleasing is the
latter than the former!

Near the arches or pillars, as the case may be, groups of
beautiful plants like Lilies, Campanulas, blue perennial Larkspurs,

RUSTIC ARCH FOR ROSES

A, A, posts charred and firmly fixed in the ground
B, B, prepared borders for the roots.

ROSES 7

Paeonies, Phloxes, and Hollyhocks can be planted. This plan
has been followed in one of the charming coloured plates which
accompany these notes.

Beds of Roses. — If possible we must find room for one or two
beds of Roses. Of course we will contrive a full-fledged Rose
garden, with arbours, pillars, arches, and beds (see coloured plate)
if we have space and means. But failing that we will have a Rose
bed. It shall not be filled with stiff, straight standards, or with
hard-pruned dwarfs, but with bush Roses of vigorous growth
and free-flowering character, that will make handsome objects in
themselves. Standard Roses are not favoured
nowadays, except by those who grow Tea
Roses for exhibition. And lovers of beau-
tiful Rose gardens will not trouble about
weak, puny growers, which need pruning to
stumps every year; they will select strong
sorts which form real bushes without much
cutting, and still bear handsome flowers.
In one of the coloured plates it will be

seen that the splendid variety La France PLANTING RosES AGA1NS1 -A WALL
has been utilised in beds in this way.
The bushes are not small things like Pinks,
but great, glorious masses. There are many good varieties
suitable for this and other purposes, as we shall see when we
come to our selections.

Whether we grow Roses on or in arches, pergolas, walls (for
we must not forget the dwelling-house), or beds we must give
them abundance of good food if they are to produce those generous
masses of bloom which we want. Starvation will not do, half-
measures will not do. We must have strong, healthy plants,
growing in rich soil.

Budding. — How shall we get our plants ? People who are
beginning to take an interest in Roses, and are anxious to learn

A, centre of plant kept open ; B, the
roots spread out in a wide shallow
basin before covering in.

8 .

about them, read about different kinds of "stocks," and inquiry
reveals the fact, unknown to them hitherto, although familiar
enough to gardeners, that Roses are not, as a rule, propagated by
seeds, or cuttings, or division, but by putting growth buds of
them on the stems of allied plants, such as Briers, or Manettis.
The beginner will ask whether he should do this, or whether he
should buy plants which have been formed already. There is no
doubt as to his course, he should buy plants ; partly because there

is a difficulty in getting stocks, and
partly because budding needs prac-
tice.

After the amateur has gained ex-
perience of Roses he may very well
try his hand at budding. He will
have to get briers out of the hedge-
rows in autumn, and plant them in
his garden. They need only be
straight stems like walking-sticks,
with a stump of root. In spring
BUDDING ROSES they will push shoots, which by the

No. i, The dotted line, A, shows how to cut r T 1 r 1.1. i

out the bud, B ; NO. 2, the bud severed end. ol J uly, or irom that to the

from the branch ; No. 3, arrow points to • j j 1 r A '111- l_

hard wood to be removed; No. * bark of middle of AugUSt, Will haVC beCOme

branch cut lengthwise and across; No. 5, fhirk 3^ leaH-DenHk anH a fnnt

arrow points to bark duly raised; No. 6, aS 1Catl PendlS, and Z

arrow points to the bud inserted; No. 7, Qr more long. At the baSC of each
the bud tied in position.

shoot he may cut a slit through the

bark, about an inch and a half long, and terminating in a cross-cut.
He will then take a growing shoot of the Rose which he wishes to
propagate, and cut off a thin slice of wood and bark a little more
than an inch long, the centre of which comes underneath a leaf.
The reason for this is that at the base of each leaf there is a
dormant bud, which is the future plant. After trimming the leaf
back to its footstalk, and removing the wood from the bark
without displacing the bud or injuring its base, the edges of the

(2,299)

ROSES

9

cut made in the stems of the brier should be raised, and the
piece slipped in at once, before it has time to get dry. It must
be tied in gently but firmly with worsted or raffia-tape. If the
bud remain fresh and green at the end of a fortnight it is safe,
although it may not grow until the following spring. If it shrivel
it will not grow, and another had better be tried. In order to
provide for this it is wise to reserve
one or two shoots on each brier at
the first budding.

Soil and Planting. — Now let us
consider our bought plants. We shall
probably procure them in the autumn,
and directly the order has been sent off
we must prepare the ground. Those
who have a choice between light and
heavy soil had better choose the latter.
Roses like what gardeners call " hold- PLANTING ROSES

ing " SOil, SUCh aS Strong loam Or Clay. Left-hand figure.— A, A, bruised roots to be

cut off; B, fibrous roots to be preserved.

Light, sandy, gravelly or chalky land Right-hand figure.— wide, shallow hole

with the roots well spread out.

is not so good. The ground ought

to be treated in this way: (i) Mark a strip two feet wide right
across one end of the bed ; (2) take out the soil to a foot deep
and wheel it to the other end of the bed ; (3) spread a coat of
manure in the trench and dig it into the subsoil ; (4) fill up the
trench with the topsoil from another two-feet strip; (5) so proceed
until the end of the bed is reached ; and finally (6) fill up the
end trench with the loose soil that came from the first strip. This
greatly enriches and deepens the ground. Allow the soil a week
or two to settle down, and then plant the Roses, not deeply, but
work the soil very firmly about the roots.

Pruning. — As regards newly planted dwarf or standard Roses,
it is generally agreed by experienced cultivators that the branches
are best pruned back to three or four buds about the end of March ;

(2,299) 2

10

BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

PRUNING BUSH ROSES

The left-hand figure shows how to prune a dwarf
Hybrid Perpetual, and the right-hand figure
how to prune a Hybrid Tea. Cross branches
should be cut hard back, as shown at A,
then the basal bud will grow strongly in the
direction shown by the dotted lines B, and
strengthen the tree.

fresh shoots soon break from the short stumps left. Experts,

however, differ as to whether climbing Roses should be cut back

in the same way. Some advocate that
the long canes should be cut close
back to the ground in the spring,
and allowed to throw up entirely
new shoots from the base. Others
declare that this is not necessary.
As a rule, amateurs dislike cutting
Roses back, much less climbing Roses,
and are only too glad to be guided
by the expert who recommends non-
shortening. The present writers are
in favour of non-shortening where
the Roses are planted in rich, deep
soil ; but if they are to go into

shallow soil, above gravel or chalk,

cutting back must be practised.
As regards general pruning — that

is, the treatment of the plants in

future years when well established —

growers may be advised to proceed

on the following lines : (i) Dwarfs.

Prune varieties which form summer

shoots of about the thickness of

lead-pencils back to within six buds

of the base every spring, but allow

varieties which form shoots as thick

as the finger to extend two or three

feet, and merely trim the tips, and

the weak breast wood which forms

on the main stems. (2) Standards. The great majority of the

Roses which are grown as standards form summer shoots of

PRUNING STANDARD AND CLIMBING ROSES

Left-hand figure. — In pruning a standard Rose the
branches should be cut back to the dark lines.
Right-hand figure. — Pruning a climbing Rose.
A and B, weakly and cross branches cut out ;
C, unripe tips of other branches cut off.

ROSES

11

about the thickness of a lead-pencil, and may be cut back to four
buds about the end of March each year. (3) Climbers with long
canes. Climbers which form long, strong, upright canes, such as
Crimson Rambler and Carmine Pillar, do not need much pruning.
On no account must the vigorous rods be cut back to the ground.
When, however, considerable numbers of canes have formed, and
are getting thick and tangled, the old ones may be cut right out
to give more room for the young ones which have pushed from

PROPAGATING ROSES FROM SPRING

CUTTINGS

A, cutting with a heel, severed beneath a
joint ; B, point of cutting retained ; C,
the cutting inserted.

PROPAGATING ROSES FROM AUTUMN
CUTTINGS

A, suitable shoot ; B, cutting prepared
for insertion ; C, cutting inserted,
with its base on a layer of sand.

the base. (4) Climbers with much side wood. There are several
valuable climbing Roses, such as Gloire de Dijon, Alister Stella
Gray, William Allen Richardson, and Madame Alfred Carriere,
which throw many vigorous young side canes from their main
rods; and these are particularly valuable for walls, because they
cover a considerable surface in a short time. They do not need
cutting back when established, but will be the better for an annual
trimming, thinning out tangled shoots.

Special Selections. — We may now give a few selections of
varieties for various purposes. These are carefully chosen to unite
vigour of growth with bright colours and free-blooming. Many,

12 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

too, are perfumed, but the grower will not find such fragrance in
all the pillar Roses as in the old Cabbage Rose.

SELECT HOSES FOR ARCHES, PERGOLAS, AND PILLARS

Ards Rover, crimson,
Carmine Pillar, carmine.
Crimson Rambler, crimson.
Dorothy Perkins, pink.
Fe'licite' Perpttue, white.

Euphrosyne, pink.
Leuchstern, carmine.
Mrs. F. W. Flight, pink.
Penzance Brier Lucy Bertram,
red.

SELECT ROSES FOR WALLS

A lister Stella Gray, yellow.
Gloire de Dijon, yellow.
Longworth Rambler, crimson.

Madame Alfred Carriere, white.
Reine Marie Henriette, red.
Wm. Allen Richardson, copper.

SELECT ROSES FOR BEDS

Anna Olivier, white or buff.
Antoine Rivoire, cream.
Caroline Testout, pink.
Frau Karl Druschki, white.
Gruss an Teplitz, crimson.
Gustave Nabonnand, flesh.

La France, peach.

Liberty, crimson.

Madame Abel Chatenay, rose.

Marie van Houtte, lemon, tinted pink.

Mrs. John Laing, rose.

Mrs. R. G. Sharman Crawford, rose pink.

The above lists will meet the requirements of those who only want
a small collection of Roses, but it will be wise to give special
consideration to the most important sections, for the benefit of
those readers who desire to study Roses more closely.

HYBRID PERPETUALS

The Hybrid Perpetuals form a considerable class, and com-
prise the largest flowered and most brilliantly coloured of all
Roses. The reader who goes to a show and sees long lines of
green boxes filled with immense scarlet, crimson, rose, pink and
white Roses, has an opportunity of becoming acquainted with
the best of the H.P.'s — as far, at least, as their blooms are
concerned when produced by skilled growers. He must not assume
that he knows all about them from this introduction alone ; he
still has to learn about them as plants ; but he has got a step on

ROSES 13

the road. He can take the names of those he admires most, order
them in due course, and then see what they are like in his own
hands. To get them up to show standard he will have to do
more than buy strong plants, and plant them in deep, well-
manured ground ; he will have to prune hard, to thin the shoots,
and to sacrifice some of the flower buds. Many amateurs who
visit shows expect that every variety whose name they write down
will come exactly the same in their own gardens as they saw it on
the stand — as large, as perfect in form, as fresh, and as rich in
colour — without any special treatment. Of course they are wrong,
and suffer disappointment. If, however, they will be satisfied with
a little less than exhibition standard — rather smaller size, less
regular contour — they may get great pleasure out of H.P.
Roses. The varieties have two well-marked flowering periods,
the first being the end of June or the early part of July, and
the second the first half of September. They are not continuous
bloomers, like the Teas. There are, however, one or two varieties,
notably the lovely pink Mrs. John Laing, which bloom over a
much longer period than the majority.

We have seen that the Hybrid Perpetuals are of mixed
parentage, the Monthly, Bourbon and Damask Roses having all
been used as parents for them. They are mostly green-stemmed,
with five rough leaflets. If a shoot comes up from the base which
grows very strongly, and has smooth leaves divided into seven
parts instead of five, it is probably not a part of the Rose plant,
but of the stock on which it wras budded, and had better be
pulled off at the base. As a class the H.P.'s are very strongly
scented, and this is one of their greatest recommendations.
All are not equally fragrant, and one or two, such as Baroness
Rothschild and Her Majesty, are practically scentless. Recog-
nising that Rose lovers look for perfume, we will presently give
a special selection of fragrant Roses.

H.P. Roses are generally budded on the Manetti stock in

14 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

nurseries. Private growers cannot get this stock, unless they
propagate it themselves, as nurserymen do, and that is not
general. If home propagation is practised it is generally by
budding on standard brier stocks, in the way already advised ; or
by dispensing with stocks altogether, and striking cuttings (p. 11).
Roses which are struck from cuttings are called " own-root "
Roses. Experts consider that, on the whole, budded Roses are
better than "own-rooters," but certainly there are plenty of excel-
lent H.P. Rose bushes in cultivation which have been raised
from cuttings. Some varieties do better than others, and the
soil also has a bearing on success. With a naturally good Rose
soil, such as substantial loam, the majority of the sorts make
very good plants from cuttings. Those who like to try this
method of propagation should take firm, brownish, well-ripened
shoots of the current year's growth about the end of September,
preferably with a short " heel " of the older wood, cut them into
lengths of six or eight inches, and insert them firmly to within a
couple of inches of the tip. They can be put a few inches apart
in a row, and at the end of a year transplanted to the beds.
They should make very good plants in the second season. If
they do not, they probably never will.

The question of disbudding H.P. Roses, both in relation to
shoots and flowers, turns on whether the grower's principal re-
quirements are large numbers of medium-sized flowers for cutting,
or small numbers of bigger ones for exhibition. When the plants
start growing in spring after the pruning, which will be done
about the end of March, they will make one growth from each of
the buds that were left, and subsequently form a number of side
shoots, on all of which flowers may be expected. The grower for
show will not let all these shoots develop ; he will take them out
while they are quite small, and restrict the plants to three or
four growths. Further, he will thin the flower buds on those
left, removing all the small outside ones where several come in a

ROSES

15

cluster (which, however, will not be common), and leaving the
central one only. There is a half-way course between this severe
limitation and that of letting the plants grow and flower just as
they like; it is to limit them to six shoots each. Plants thus
restricted carry very attractive flowers, and are handsome in them-
selves. Complete non-pruning and non-disbudding — in short, an
absolutely natural system of cultivation — is convenient ; it saves
the unskilled amateur much searching of heart, as well as a
certain amount of time. But it is not good for the weak growers,
which must have severe pruning in spring if they are to do any
good. It is an excellent plan for the beginner to prune all his
Roses hard the first year; the following season he will have
sufficient knowledge of the different varieties to be able to decide
how to treat them. As stated in the general remarks on pruning,
it is a golden rule to prune strong growers lightly, and weak
growers severely.

The amateur who is desirous of making a collection of the best
H.P. Roses should choose from the following varieties: —

Abel Carriere, deep crimson, shaded with

purple.
A. K. Williams, carmine, flattish flower,

a popular show Rose.

* Alfred Colomb, carmine, globular, very

sweet.
*Baroness Rothschild, pale pink, a strong

grower, very thick flower stems, no

perfume.
*Ben Cant, dark crimson, strong grower.

* Captain Hay ward, scarlet, strong grower.

* Charles Lefebvre, scarlet, vigorous, free-
blooming and very sweet, a grand old
Rose.

Comte de Raimbaud, crimson, vigorous.
Comtesse de Ludre, brilliant light red, rather

weak.

*Dr. Andry, crimson, vigorous and fragrant.
*Duke of Edinburgh, brilliant scarlet,

vigorous.

Duke of Wellington, crimson, bright in
colour.

Dupuy Jamain, cerise, vigorous and free-
blooming.

*Earl of Dufferin, maroon, very sweet,
vigorous.

E. Y. Teas, red, not vigorous, but desir-
able for its perfume.

*Frau Karl Druschki, white, very strong
and free-flowering; little perfume.

* General Jacqueminot, scarlet, a vigorous
variety with very sweet flowers, a fine
old sort.

"Helen Keller, cerise, globular flowers,
a beautiful variety, but not very
strong.

Her Majesty, pink, very large, vigorous
grower, no perfume.

Horace Vernet, scarlet, fair grower, a
popular show Rose.

16

BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

* Madame Gabriel Luizet, silvery pink, very

sweet, not a good late bloomer.
Madame Victor Verdier, light red,

brilliant colour, vigorous.
Marchioness of Londonderry, ivory, large,

deep flower, vigorous.
Maria Baumann, carmine, deep flower,

fragrant.
Merveille de Lyon, white, strong grower

and free bloomer, but not sweet.
*Mrs. John Laing, pink, vigorous, sweet,

very free bloomer, one of the best.

* These might be chosen

*Mrs. R. G. Sharman Crawford, pink,

vigorous, very floriferous.
*Senateur Vaisse, crimson, globe-shaped

flower, sweet.
Suzanne Marie Rodocanachi, bright rose,

very rich in hue.
*Ulrich Brunner, cherry, globe-shaped, a

strong grower and free bloomer, very

sweet.

Ulster, salmon, deep flower, strong grower.
Victor Hugo, bright crimson.
Xavier Olibo, dark crimson, globe-shaped.

for a small collection.

FRAGRANT H.P. ROSES

The following varieties may be selected from the above list as
very sweet ; —

Alfred Colomb.
Charles Lefebvre.
Dr. Andry.
Earl of Duflferin.

E. Y. Teas.
Ge"n6ral Jacqueminot.
Madame Gabriel Luizet.
Marie Baumann.

Mrs. John Laing.
Senateur Vaisse.
Ulrich Brunner.

TEA-SCENTED

The beautiful Tea-scented Roses differ very considerably
from the H.P.'s. There is little resemblance either in habit or
form of bloom. Whereas the H.P.'s have green wood, the
young shoots of a great many of the Teas are red or brown.
This has a very marked effect when the two classes are grown in
separate beds. The H.P.'s will have no distinctive beauty until
they are full of foliage and bloom, but the Teas will be beautiful
from the time they have made their first few inches of growth.
The bed will be a glow of warm, lively, cheerful colour in the
earliest days of May — almost like a bed of young herbaceous
Paeonies. Another important difference between the classes is
that while the H.P.'s complete their growth in two separate
movements, the Teas are always growing — that is, if the soil is
good, and they receive sufficient moisture. The Teas flower on

ROSES 17

new, young wood, which means that they are far more continuous
in blooming than the H.P.'s. Almost every bit of new wood on
a vigorous, healthy Tea will bloom, and as such wood keeps
coming for several successive months, it follows that flowering is
practically incessant.

Owing to their neater flowers and relatively long stems the
Tea Roses are more valuable for room and personal adornment
than the H.P.'s. They are delightful vase and buttonhole flowers.
With few exceptions they possess a piquant, refreshing, agreeable,
but not powerful perfume. While they differ in degrees of vigour,
the majority are extremely vigorous. The grower need never be
afraid to take long pieces of wood with his vase flowers in the
case of these strong shoots, on the ground that he is risking
spoiling the plants, as plenty more will come. Like Sweet Peas,
the more they are cut the better they bloom, always provided that
the culture is what it should be. The beauty and grace of the
buds of nearly all the Tea Roses is one of their greatest charms.
The majority are long and symmetrical, with the outer petals
evenly folded to the tip, or perhaps with their edges curved like
the fold of a shell.

The reader will agree that there are sound reasons why he
should grow Tea Roses in his garden ; indeed, he may be so
impressed by their merits that he will give them the lion's
share of his ground. He will be wise in so doing. There will
be brief periods when the H.P.'s will outshine them, as, for
instance, during the first half of July, but the steady persistency
of the Teas will conquer in the end. The cautious amateur may
wonder why it is that if the Teas are so beautiful and valuable
they are still so comparatively little grown. There are more
reasons than one for this. The first is that although the Rose
has been so popular a flower for many years it has been under
the dominion of exhibitors, and it is only in recent times that
it has come to be valued at its proper worth as a garden

18 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

flower pure and simple. Now, most exhibitors are H.P. ad-
herents, because they want large and richly coloured flowers for
their show stands. So long as they get a limited number of fine
flowers in July, which is the great Rose show month of the year,
they are content. The second reason is that there is a widespread
impression that the Teas are tender plants, and consequently, that
heavy losses may be expected among them in very severe winters.
Although the belief is not without foundation it is carried a great
deal too far. To say that most of the Tea Roses are not absolutely
hardy is not to say that they are exceedingly tender. It is the
inability of people to recognise that there is such a thing as a
medium which causes so much mischief, and it is deplorable that
large numbers of Rose-lovers deny themselves the pleasure of
growing a collection of these flowers because they fear what they
regard as the inevitable expense of extensive renewals every
season. Even in cold districts it is quite easy to preserve the
plants. One simple plan of effecting this is to draw soil up each
one to the height of eight or ten inches about the end of November,
and then spread a coating of long litter all over the bed between
and round the mounds. This practice is not only good as a
preservative, but also culturally. It loosens and enriches the sur-
face soil thoroughly. At the end of the winter the mounds are re-
duced, and the soil is spread over the remnants of the litter. When
the plants are treated in this way it is rarely that extensive injury
is done. The upper, unprotected parts of the plant may be killed,
but they can be cut away, in fact they would perhaps be removed
in any case, in the ordinary course of pruning. The lower wood
is safe, and being softened by the earth the buds break strongly.
If any Teas be grown as standards (which will hardly be the
case unless the cultivator is growing for show) some bracken may
be placed among the branches, and tied round to prevent its being
blown out.

The Tea Roses are propagated by budding them on to Brier

ROSES

19

stocks. The standard Briers out of the hedges are suitable. For
dwarfs (and these are grown far more extensively than standards)
stocks have to be raised from seeds or cuttings of Briers. The
Teas are not much grown on their own roots, but some of the
most vigorous varieties may be raised from cuttings in the same
way as H.P.'s.

There is a general understanding that Teas should be pruned
less severely than H.P.'s, but in practice it will be found that the
same rule of pruning weak growers severely and strong growers
lightly may be adopted with advantage.

The following are the principal varieties of Tea-scented Roses : —

*Anna Olivier, white, ivory, or buff, free-
flowering, vigorous, and in spite of
its variable colour, a really valuable
sort.

Bridesmaid, a deep pink sport from Cathe-
rine Mermet.

Caroline Kuster, lemon, vigorous.

* Catherine Mermet, pink, a very free
bloomer. One of the best varieties
we have for garden and pot culture.

Comtesse de Nadaillac, apricot, a charming
flower and popular with exhibitors, but
not vigorous.

*Dr. Grill, rose, vigorous and free.

*Francisca Krtiger, deep yellow, vigorous.

Francois Dubreuil, crimson.

*Hon. Edith Gifford, white, free-flowering,
vigorous, and generally one of the
best.

Homlre, rose, exquisite bud, vigorous.

Innocente Pirola, cream, vigorous.

*Jean Ducher, salmon, vigorous and
distinct.

Lady Roberts, apricot, vigorous and free-
flowering.

Madame C. Guinoisseau, yellow, vigorous.

Madame Cusin, deep rose, rich and distinct
colour.

Madame de Watteville, cream, an exhibi-
tor's variety, somewhat delicate.

* Madame Hoste, lemon, vigorous and free-
flowering.

*Maman Cochet, flesh pink, deep flower,
vigorous and free-flowering.

* Marie van Houtte, lemon, rose edge,
vigorous and free.

Medea, pale yellow, vigorous.

Mrs. Edward Mawley, carmine rose, beau-
tiful colour.

Muriel Grahame, cream, a charming
variety, but not very vigorous.

Niphetos, pure white, very deep, a lovely
sort, but only suitable for indoor
cultivation. There is a climbing
variety of it. These are two of the
most popular button-hole Roses grown.

Souvenir dElise Vardon, cream, deep
flower of splendid shape, but more
of a show than a garden Rose.

* 'Souvenir de J. B. Guillot, crimson, vigo-
rous and free.

* Souvenir de Pierre Netting, apricot, very
vigorous, a most useful Rose of
distinct colour.

* Souvenir de S. A. Prince, pure white,
vigorous, and a good garden as well
as show Rose.

Souvenir dun Ami, bright rose, very
fragrant, good both for indoors and
out.

20 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

Sunrise, salmon, charming colour, but not
a hardy variety.

The Bride, white or very pale yellow, a
sport from Catherine Mermet, good in
pots, and also a useful garden Rose.

* White Maman Cachet, a white or lemon
sport from Maman Cochet; it seldom
comes pure white, but is in all cir-
cumstances one of the best varieties
grown.

* These might be chosen for a small collection.

HYBRID TEAS

The Hybrid Teas have shown the greatest development of any
during recent years. Most of the best varieties have been intro-
duced since 1880, and several splendid sorts since 1890. It may
be safely prophesied that for many years to come the most
marked improvements effected with any class of dwarf Rose
will be with H.T.'s. The most successful of modern raisers are
working on them, and apart from that there is the consideration
that the H.P.'s and Teas have already been improved so much
that further development is difficult. The H.T.'s present a mine
only half-worked, and one which has yielded gems of such
promise as to foster bright hopes of further good things.
The varieties, as we have already seen, are crossbreds between
H.P.'s and Teas, and they combine in no small degree the
merits of both these great and beautiful classes. They have
warmer leaf tints than the former, and a longer flowering
season ; they have, on the whole, more vigorous growth than the
Teas, and richer colours. All this amounts to saying that they
are very valuable as garden plants, and such is indeed the case.
In the list of twelve Roses for beds on a previous page two are
Teas, three H.P.'s, and seven H.T.'s. This is surely very signifi-
cant. In our own experience of Rose-growing during recent years,
which embraces all the classes, the H.T.'s are already the most
valuable for dwarfs, and we have little hesitation in saying that
every succeeding year will strengthen their position.

As a class, the H.T.'s are distinguished by strong growth
with a fair amount of young spring colour (although not quite

HOSES

21

so much as the Teas), profuse blooming, large flowers, and
bright, clear colours. They are not, as a whole, quite so neat in
the bud as the Teas, nor are the expanded flowers so full and
brilliant as the H.P.'s, but they have a beauty and character
of their own. Their long flower stems make them particularly
valuable for cutting. Like the Teas, they are continuous growers
and bloomers ; indeed, one or two, notably the rich and fragrant
Griiss an Teplitz, are rarely without flowers.

They are propagated by budding on Brier stocks, and also by
cuttings.

The following are some of the best varieties : —

Alice Lindsell, cream, pink centre.
*Antoine Rivoire, cream, orange centre,

very vigorous and free-flowering.
*Augustine Guinoisseau, silvery pink, very

vigorous, and with large flowers, a

sport from the old variety La France.
Bessie Brown, cream, strong grower, but

not very free bloomer, a popular show

variety.
*Camoens, rose and yellow, very vigorous

and free-flowering.
^Caroline Testout, bright pink, vigorous,

and very persistent in flowering.
Captain Christy, flesh, an old favourite.
Clara Watson, cream, rose-tinted, free and

good.

Edith d'Ombrain, white, strong grower.
Grace Darling, cream, pink shading,

vigorous, free-flowering, a charming

variety.
*Gruss an Teplitz, crimson, very sweet,

vigorous, and nearly always in bloom.
*Gustave Regis, nankeen yellow, vigorous.
Kaiserin Augusta Victoria, lemon, vigo-
rous and free.

Killarney, pale pink, vigorous.

*La France, silvery pink, vigorous, free-
blooming and fragrant.

* Liberty, crimson, very fine.

* Madame Abel Chatenay, salmon pink,
vigorous and free.

* Madame Cadeau Ramey, flesh, rose shad-
ing, vigorous.

* Madame Jules Grolez, silvery pink, vigo-
rous and free.

Madame Fernet Ducher, canary, vigo-
rous.

*Madame Ravary, orange, distinct, vigo-
rous and free.

*Marquise de Salisbury, crimson, semi-
double, vigorous.

Marquise Litta, carmine rose, vigorous.

Mildred Grant, ivory, deeper tint, very
thick flower stems, but not a free
grower and bloomer, popular for exhi-
bition.

*Mrs. W.J. Grant, rosy red, very bright
and free, sweet.

Papa Lambert^ deep rose, vigorous.

Viscountess Folkestone, cream, very sweet.

These would make a splendid selection for a small garden.

22

BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

NOISETTES

The Noisette section is not important in point of numbers,
but it includes two or three climbing or rambling varieties of
considerable value. The varieties bear their flowers in clusters.
The following are the chief: —

Aimee Vibert, white, free-flowering ; a
valuable pillar Rose, owing to its dense
habit, and nearly evergreen character.

Alister Stella Gray, light yellow ; a valu-
able wall and pillar variety, growing
and flowering throughout the summer
and well on into autumn.

Celine Fores tier, an old yellow, once popular
but not grown extensively nowadays.

Fortune's Yellow, orange ; another old
sort, not much seen now; it does
not thrive in cold situations, but
succeeds admirably in a green-
house.

Lamarque, white, with pale yellow
shading; a good climber, but not
very hardy.

L Ideal, coppery red, very distinct.

Mardchal NieL — Once the most popular of all Roses, and still
a great favourite, owing to its rich colour, powerful fragrance,
extremely vigorous growth, and wonderful freedom of blooming.
If it were hardy enough to thrive in most districts out of doors
it would be grown in every garden, but it is not. Moreover, it is

liable to go off with canker, often
collapsing very suddenly. It is
generally reserved for greenhouse
cultivation, and modern growers
find that they get the best results
by pruning it closely back to the
stock after flowering, leaving only
two or three buds. If healthy, and

ROSES PLANTED IN BORDERS UNDER GLASS growing in good Soil, it generally

A, border; B, low wall to enclose border ; C, glass. breaks VCrV Strongly after this
The shoots are trained on wires. J o J

drastic treatment, and in a few

weeks makes new canes twelve to twenty feet long. These shoots
ripen during the autumn, and if kept dormant in a cool tempera-
ture will throw out abundance of short, flowering growths the

ROSES

23

following spring. Mare'chal Niel is best planted out in a border
of loamy soil in a cool greenhouse or conservatory.

Reve d"Or. — Buff, a good climber, with dark red stems.

William Allen Richardson. — Orange yellow, charming in the
bud, but not when expanded. A hardy, vigorous, and very free-
flowering variety, which succeeds under the hard pruning accorded
to Mare'chal Niel.

Climbing Roses other than Noisettes. — There are several beautiful
climbing Roses which do not come into the Noisette class, such
as the Sweet Briers, Polyanthas, Singles, and Banksian. Let us
consider a few of the best varieties in these sections.

PENZANCE SWEET BRIERS

The hybrid Sweet Briers have fragrant foliage and beautiful
single flowers, which are followed by scarlet hips. They may be
grown either as hedges or pillars. The following are a few of
the best : —

Amy Robsart, rose, strong grower.
Anne of Geicrstein, crimson, vigorous.
Meg Merrilees, crimson, vigorous.

Lucy Bertram, crimson, white centre,

vigorous.
Rose Bradwardine, rose, very strong.

BANKSIAN

There are two forms of Banksian Rose, a white and a yellow.
Both have small double flowers. They grow luxuriantly on a
warm, sheltered wall, but not on a cold one. No pruning is required,
except to thin them out when getting tangled. They are charming
little Roses.

AYRSHIRE

This is a small section, but it includes two very useful varieties,
both extremely vigorous growers — in fact they will ramble almost
all over the garden when growing in good soil, unless kept in
check.

24 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

Bennetts Seedling (Thoresbyand). — This has semi-double white
flowers, borne in clusters.

Dundee Rambler. — Semi-double, white with pink edges.

EVERGREEN CLIMBERS

Also a small section, and corresponding with the Ayrshire to
the extent of being represented by two particularly noteworthy
varieties.

Fe'licite' Perpe'tue. — White, double or semi-double, one of the
most vigorous and free-flowering of all Roses ; makes a splendid
pillar, and is also suitable for walls. It grows with great rapidity,
and makes quite a thicket of shoots.

Rampant. — White, somewhat smaller flowered than Fe'licite'
Perpe'tue, and semi-double. It grows with almost equal luxuriance
to its sister variety, and makes a beautiful snow-pillar of fleecy
bloom.

CLIMBING POLYANTHA

These, the multiflora or many-flowered climbers, are practically
a new class, the rise of which has been one of the great features of
modern flower-gardening. They are all strong growers, and bloom
profusely. They are admirably adapted for arches, pergolas, and
pillars, but not for walls. They are popularly known as Ramblers.

Aglaia. — The Yellow Rambler; flowers small, semi-double,
and pale yellow in colour.

Claire Jacquier. — Nankeen yellow, distinct colour.

Crimson Rambler. — Rich crimson, the flowers borne in large
clusters. Perhaps the most popular Rose grown. Splendid for
pillars and arches, but not suitable for walls, especially in dry,
poor soil.

Philadelphia Rambler. — Deep crimson, larger than Crimson
Rambler, and may displace it in many gardens when it becomes
well known and cheap.

GLADIOLI
By

AND AGAPANTHUS
Beatrice Parsons

ROSES 25

Queen Alexandra. — Deep pink, double or semi-double.
Thalia. — The White Rambler, semi-double, small flowers; a
free bloomer.

SINGLES

The single Roses are not, as a class, long lasting, but
several grow so vigorously, and are so brilliant, that they are
thoroughly worth growing.

Carmine Pillar. — Carmine ; one of the most valuable of all
climbing Roses ; a very vigorous grower, and an abundant early
bloomer.

Macrantha. — Flesh-coloured flowers, with prominent golden
anthers.

Sinica Anemone. — Soft pink ; vigorous grower ; evergreen, likes
an open fence.

CLIMBING HYBRID ROSES

Ards Rover. — Crimson ; a strong grower and good for pillars ;
larger flowered, but less free in blooming, than the Ramblers.

Bardou Job. — Rich crimson ; semi-double ; good for low pillars,
and walls.

Cheshunt Hybrid. — Bright red ; an old favourite for walls and
arches.

Dorothy Perkins. — Bright pink ; very free blooming, with the
flowers in large clusters ; blooms long and late ; one of the best
climbers.

Lady Gay. — Resembles Dorothy Perkins, but is of a deeper
shade ; a splendid variety.

Longworth Rambler. — Crimson, semi-double; a very popular
climber.

Madame Alfred Carriere. — White, vigorous ; a valuable wall
Rose.

(2,299) 3

26 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

Reine Marie Henriette. — Deep, egg-shaped, rose flowers ; highly
perfumed ; good for walls.

Reine Olga de Wurtemburg. — Crimson, semi-double ; a vigorous
grower.

CLIMBING TEA-SCENTED

Billiard et Barre". — Deep yellow ; vigorous, good for arches.

Bouquet dOr. — Deep yellow and very sweet; a popular old
wall Rose.

Gloire de Dijon. — Buff, very sweet ; hardy, free-flowering and
vigorous ; one of the most popular of all Roses.

Madame Bdrard. — Fawn ; one of the Gloire de Dijon class.

TRAILING ROSES, SUITABLE FOR BANKS

The Japanese Roses bearing the name of Wichuraiana are
very useful for covering banks. They produce long, rambling,
vigorous stems, clothed with dark green, shining leaves. Some
have single, some semi-double, and others quite double flowers.

Alberic Barbier. — Cream, deeper centre, semi-double ; one of
the best.

Gardenia. — Yellow, double ; one of the best.

Wichuraiana. — White, single.

ROSES IN POTS

Lovers of Roses who have glass will perhaps like to grow a
few plants in pots. Well-grown pot Roses are beautiful objects
in a greenhouse, and yield flowers for cutting before outdoor
plants come into bloom. They are easy to manage. It is wise
to allow them the rest which is natural to them during the
greater part of the autumn and winter, but they may be started

ROSES 27

into growth towards the end of winter, and had in bloom in
early spring.

A start might be made in October, either by buying plants,
or by potting some from the garden. Six-inch pots will be
suitable. A soil mainly consisting of fibrous loam is the best.
The pots should be plunged in ashes in a sheltered place. With
protection in very severe weather they will be quite safe out of
doors. They may be brought into the house in batches, if
desired, in order to get a succession of flowers. It is not wise
to force them in a high temperature ; 45° to 50° will be enough.
After flowering they should be stood out of doors, and allowed
to go to rest naturally. In autumn they must be repotted. The
pruning may be done when they are put under glass, and should
be severe, the shoots being shortened to two or three buds. The
following are good varieties : Anna Olivier, Bridesmaid, Captain
Hayward, Caroline Testout, Catherine Mermet, and Mrs. John
Laing.

Mildew may be troublesome, both indoors and out. It is
worst under glass, when the plants are subjected to cold draughts,
and out of doors in extremes of drought or wet. In both cases
the best remedy is flowers of sulphur, but the powder must be
applied at the first sign of an attack if it is to do any good. If
grubs curl the leaves of outdoor plants, they must be crushed
with finger and thumb.

BULBS

THE amateur flower gardener is often ignorant of botanical
distinctions, and he would not be unwise if he were to remain
so, for they are generally tiresome and bewildering, and frequently
unnecessary for purely gardening purposes. He might think that
he at least knows what bulbs are, for he has grown familiar with
the autumn catalogues, and observed the prominence therein of

such plants as Hyacinths, Tulips, Gladioli,
and Daffodils. Even here, however, the
botanists would perplex him if given the
chance, for they would tell him that al-
though Tulips are bulbs Gladioli are not ;
indeed, they might go still further, and
heap confusion on his head by proving
that while some Irises are bulbs others
are rhizomes. Botanically, a Crocus is not
a bulb ; it is a corm. A Begonia is not a
bulb, but a tuber.

PLANTING BULBS IN BEDS

Large round beds. A, B, c, D, and E, Doubtless such distinctions as these

rows of bulbs. Square, or rectan- j . i 1-1 • , i i i

guiar shaped beds. A, B, andc, and others which exist, but need not be

spaces to be filled with bulbs. i . . * .

drawn upon as illustrations, are necessary

to botanists, or they would not be made. They are, however,
certainly not needed in ordinary gardening. The Gladiolus,
equally with the Tulip, forms a body underground that is
distinct from, and additional to, its roots ; and if the structure of
the two bodies differs in such a degree as to justify botanists in
putting them into two distinct classes, that need not place flower
gardeners under the obligation of keeping them separate unless

28

BULBS 29

they think proper. The large bulb-dealers display an elasticity of
conscience in this matter which the amateur may imitate, for it
will be to his convenience and tranquillity of mind to do so. The
very worst that can happen to him in the matter is that some
budding botanical student may one day or other make a point
against him. This will doubtless afford deep satisfaction to the
callow botanist, but it will not have the remotest effect on the
garden of the culprit, who may go on his way happy and
unrepentant. For ourselves, we are cheerfully conscious of
technical error in the composition of the present chapter on
bulbs, and make no sort of apology for taking a simple line.

Winter Aconites. — Our very first plant, the Winter Aconite
(Eranthis hyemalis), is not a true bulb, but we buy it — and buy it
very cheaply too — from bulb-dealers in the autumn. It is a low
grower with a yellow flower, which nestles in a green ruff.
Individually, it is not very striking, but in a mass on grass,
especially when associated with Snowdrops, it is very charming.
One may see it thus planted in the Royal Gardens, Kew. It
is not in the least particular about soil.

Allium neapolitanum is a pretty bulb, related to the Onion.
Happily it has not so pungent an odour. The long stems of
white flowers are very pure and pleasing. The plant may be
grown out of doors, or in pots or baskets for early blooming
under glass. At Kew it is grown in a hanging basket suspended
from the roof of the greenhouse, in company with such charming
plants as Begonia Gloire de Lorraine and Lachenalias. Those
who copy this pleasing plan should get a wire basket and line it
with moss to enable it to hold soil. The compost may consist of
two parts of loam, one of leaf-mould, and about a tenth of coarse
sand. The bulbs may be put in during November, and covered
an inch deep. They will probably bloom about the end of
February.

Alstromerias are very distinctive in appearance, and most pleasing

30

BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

to boot. One occasionally meets with them in several gardens in
a particular district, and not one of the owners knows the name, or
can remember it for many hours if it is given. This is certainly
a case, if there ever was one, for a popular name. Some one
has made an attempt to meet the want by calling them Herb
Lilies, but that, of course, is altogether too vague and general to
be of any use. The plants flower in summer, and the stems rise
two feet or more high. The plants give no trouble when they
have once become well established in light, warm soil ; in fact,

^ they are best left to themselves, as they do

not like frequent disturbance. Any feeding
that is thought necessary can be done in
the form of mulchings of manure. Per-
haps the most attractive species is pele-
grina. In cold districts, especially if it is
growing in damp, heavy soil, it is wise to
spread some dry litter or ashes over the
root-stocks in autumn.

Anemones will be found in the bulb
catalogues, and the rugged little roots
(which rather resemble lumps of dry mud)
sell in thousands, especially in the case of coronaria, the Crown
Anemone, of which St. Brigid and Alderborough are splendid
strains ; fulgens, apennina, and nemorosa. These will be referred
to under Herbaceous and Rockery Flowers.

The Arum Lily (Richardia or Calla aethiopicd) is a beautiful
and popular plant which thousands of bulb lovers grow in their
greenhouses and rooms for the sake of its pure white spathes,
which we may call flowers in a popular way. The Arum Lily is
not perfectly hardy, and cannot be relied on, therefore, to pass the
winter out of doors, except in very mild districts. Lovers of the
plant must not be misled by seeing it growing in the open air in
the Midlands and north of Great Britain, because it is the custom of

PLANTING BULBS IN BEDS

A, flat surface where the soil is
naturally dry and light ; B,
rounded surface where the soil
is of a rather heavy nature.

BULBS 31

gardeners to plant it out late in spring for the summer season, lifting
it again in September, and putting it into pots for flowering in
winter and spring. In places where there is little or no frost it
will often pass the winter safely, especially if it is well established
near water, and when a colony of it is established there are few
objects in the garden that are more beautiful. There is a miniature
form of the Arum Lily called Little Gem that many people like
for pot culture, and there is also a yellow named Elliottiana.

Arum Lilies can be bought from bulb-dealers in autumn, and
they may be potted at once into a similar mixture of soil to that
recommended for Alliums. Unless they are very large they may
go into 5-inch pots, but when they have attained to considerable
size they must have y-inch or 8-inch pots, as they are free rooters
and need a great deal of water. The transfer is not likely to be
called for the first winter. Assuming that the plants are bought
in autumn, they may go into the smaller pot for the winter, be
planted in rich soil in the garden at the end of May, and be
potted up into the larger size at mid-September. They may lose
one or two leaves when they are potted, but this need not alarm
the grower, as fresh ones will soon form. When he has got large
clumps he may divide them, keeping the small offsets which form
in little pots until they are strong enough to go into the full size
for flowering.

Arum Lilies should never be allowed to suffer from want
of water, whether growing indoors or out. If the soil gets quite
dry, and remains so for even a short time, they may suffer severely.
The grower should remember that they are semi-aquatics, and
then he will not neglect them in this all-important matter.

We have seen that the Arum Lily is not really an Arum,
but a Richardia. The Arums proper are similar in structure, but
in no case so beautiful as the chaste and lovely Lily of the Nile.
They are hardy plants, mostly with thick, fleshy, spotted stems,
and strangely marked flowers. They are uncanny, and in the case

32 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

of one or two species, positively forbidding-looking flowers. It
needs a lively imagination, in conjunction with a generous disposi-
tion, to see beauty in the plant called the Black Calla, for instance.
With botanists this is Arum arisarum. If the reader has his
curiosity excited by seeing a plant in a catalogue under the name
of Monarch of the East, and is led to wonder what sort of thing
it can be, let him calm himself with the information that it is
neither more nor less than one of these Arums, and that its name
is cornutum.

The Arums form a nectar which has a most exhilarating effect on
small winged insects. Sad to say, they become inebriated upon it.
Still worse, the first thing that they do when they recover from
the effects of their debauch is to hasten back for more strong liquor.

Tuberous-rooted Begonias. — Begonias of the tuberous-rooted sec-
tion are immense favourites with all lovers of flowers, alike for
greenhouse and flower-garden decoration ; and it would be strange
if it were otherwise, in view of the striking beauty of their flowers.
Who that has seen a group of modern tuberous Begonias exhibited
at an important flower-show by one of the leading growers can
ever forget the sight? It is something to live in the memory
for all time. The singles are beautiful enough, with their great
flowers borne in abundance well above the thick, massive leaves,
and with their brilliant and varied colours. But the doubles are
even more strikingly handsome. The flowers differ greatly in
form. Some are like huge Camellias ; others resemble Water Lilies
(Nymphaeas). Some are of the form of large Hollyhocks ; others
as massive and rich as Paeonies. The range of colours is not com-
plete, because we have not yet got blue, but it is very considerable.
There are whites as pure as new-fallen snow, yellows of various
shades, beautiful blush and Picotee-edged flowers, delicate pinks,
soft rose shades, brilliant salmon and orange hues, glowing scarlets,
and deep, rich crimsons.

The tuberous Begonia is quite a modern flower. Although the

BULBS 33

species had no particular importance in themselves, as parents they
proved invaluable. Their progeny have been intercrossed until all
trace of the original plants has been lost, and we have a new race.
The value of the tuberous Begonias as flower garden plants is limited
by the fact that they do not flourish in hot, dry weather. Beds of
them are apt to be thin and ineffective in a scorching summer. The
plants do not absolutely die out, and when the cooler weather of
late September and early October comes they spread and bloom
freely ; but as far as the main part of the summer is concerned
they must be written down as poor. The contrast in a damp, cool
summer is remarkable. Then the plants grow strongly, fill out
the beds, and give a beautiful display of bloom by the end of
July at the latest.

Since so much turns on moisture, the admirer of Begonias
will probably ask himself whether he cannot ensure success, dry
summer or no, by making provision for supplying the necessary
humidity. Yes, he can certainly do a great deal. He can deepen
and manure his soil for one thing, and if this work is thoroughly
done it will go a long way. If he will work the soil two spades
deep, and put a thick coat of decayed yard manure about nine inches
below the surface, he will have done much to encourage success.
Another thing that he can do is to specially prepare his plants in
the spring. He can buy his tubers, or take them out of their
winter quarters, about the end of March, and place them six
inches apart in boxes filled with a compost in which leaf-mould
predominates. A situation on a shelf in a greenhouse, or in a
frame (with a covering in cold weather if there is no artificial heat),
will suit them, and in the course of a week or two buds will show.
Never let the soil get quite dry, and the shoots will push strongly.
If kept close to the glass they will be short and sturdy, not long
and weak. They should have abundance of air to help to keep
them healthy. This treatment will certainly bring its reward. By
the first week in June the plants will be very strong. A third

34 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

thing that the resolute grower can do is to give the plants a good
send-off by keeping the soil moist and mulching with short, decayed
manure directly they have made a start. Should there be no rain
he will be well advised to give an occasional soaking of water,
varied with liquid manure, withdrawing the mulching for the purpose,
and afterwards replacing it, in order to conserve the moisture by
checking evaporation.

All this means a certain amount of trouble, which the average
gardener may not consider he has time to take, but which the
person who is bent on having a fine bed of Begonias will
consider justifiable. Let him recollect that almost everything
depends upon getting strong plants and giving them a vigorous
push-off. Weak, drawn plants, left to fight their way in poor,
thin, dry soil, have little chance; and although they may live
they are not likely to give pleasure or satisfaction. Strong or
weak they are likely to be at their best at the end of September
onwards. If strong they will be objects of brilliant beauty in the
cool days of October, and unless a sharp, early frost comes they
will be a lovely picture for several weeks. Towards the end of
October they will begin to get thin, and they will gradually
dwindle away, the flowers slowly fading, and the leaves and stems
decreasing in substance. When their beauty is fairly past they
may be taken up, the remains of the growth removed, and the
tubers stored in a dry, cool, frost-proof place until spring.

Plants which are to be grown in pots may be started in the
same way as those for the garden, and potted in May. Pots six
inches or seven inches across will be suitable. The compost may
consist of three parts fibrous loam, one of leaf-mould, one of
decayed manure, and a large potful of coarse sand to every peck.
It should be in a moist, but not sodden state when used, and
should be pressed well down round the tuber and roots. With
water supplies as needed, adequate staking, and abundance of air,
the plants will thrive.

BULBS 35

As far as varieties are concerned, the cost of tubers has to be
taken into account. One can buy new, named varieties, just as
one can of all special flowers, but they may cost several shillings
each. Older sorts may cost ninepence or a shilling a tuber. If
the grower does not want named varieties he will be well advised
to buy mixtures from a reliable merchant or nurseryman. Very
good "strains" are procurable for four or five shillings a dozen.
A still cheaper way of getting a stock of plants is to sow seeds,
but an early start must be made, in heat, if flowering plants are
to be had the same year. January is not too early. If the sowing
is deferred until the spring, the best that the grower can do is
to get tubers for flowering the following year. It is necessary to
exercise great care in the sowing, as the seed is expensive, and
almost snuff-like in its fineness. The surface soil for its reception
must be reduced to very small particles — in fact, it is a good plan
to compose the surface of silver sand, and after very carefully
brushing the seed over it from the palm of the hand with a fore-
finger of the other, to merely cover with a few light flakes of clean
moss. A square of glass, shaded with paper, may be put over
the receptacle, which should be stood on a shelf in a warm green-
house. If watering is required before the seeds germinate, it should
be done by dipping the vessel nearly to the brim in water, which
will rise through the drainage hole to the surface of the soil.
Directly the plants appear the moss and the paper shading must
be removed. The seedlings may be pricked off two inches apart
in boxes when they are about an inch high, and potted singly
from these when they have grown large enough to touch each
other. They will grow slowly in their early stages when forming
the tuber, and it will perhaps only be some of the strongest
plants which will be forward enough to bloom well the first year.
However, if a good supply of strong tubers be got one should
be satisfied, because they will be all ready for the next year's
flowering.

36 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

The following are good and inexpensive varieties :-

SINGLE.

Grant Allen, crimson.
Prince of Orange, orange.
Starlight, salmon.
Exquisite, pink.
Sunshine, yellow.
Snowdrift, white.

DOUBLE.

B. R. Davis, crimson.
H. Russell, scarlet.
Claribel, salmon.
Beauty of Belgrove, pink.
Rev. G. Lascelles, yellow.
Lord Roberts, white.

Belladonna and Guernsey Lilies. — There are very few bulbous
flowers more beautiful than those charming twins, the Belladonna
and Guernsey Lilies, the former of which bulb-dealers may offer
under the name of Amaryllis Belladonna, and the latter of Nerine
sarniensis, or under their popular names. Both have rosy flowers,
and those of the Guernsey Lily are particularly brilliant — in fact,
they seem to positively sparkle. The bulbs soon start growing in
autumn, like those of the white Madonna Lily, and in the case
of all the members of this lovely trio the dealer likes to have the
order early, so that he can put it on a special file, and execute
it the moment the bulbs come in. He does not like to have to
conduct a long correspondence after his cases have arrived, for all
the while it is going on the bulbs are growing, and he is afraid
of their getting spoiled. It is to the buyer's interest to humour
the dealer in this matter, and the order for the Lilies may go in
when the earliest of the bulbs for the autumn supply, such as
White Roman Hyacinths, are requisitioned. It is wise to choose
a sheltered position for the Belladonna and Guernsey Lilies, if
possible, or a border under a wall with a southern or western
aspect, and to provide a well-drained, loamy, friable soil. If they
establish themselves in such a position, and are protected with
dry litter in hard weather, they are almost sure to flower well
every year; and if they do, nothing in the garden is likely to be
more admired.

Calochortus (Mariposa Lily}. — Many amateurs grow bulbs for
years without ever learning the full resources of the family. They

BULBS 37

often completely miss some exquisite plant, and find it difficult
to credit that such a beautiful thing could exist without their
becoming aware of it, when at last they make its acquaintance.
The Calochortus might easily furnish such an example, for it is
not often seen, and yet it is beautiful in the extreme. Perhaps the
principal reason why it is not grown in nearly every garden is that
it is not quite so hardy and accommodating as our most popular
bulbs, such as Daffodils. It cannot be relied upon to thrive in a
damp, heavy soil, nor in a cold place. It luxuriates in a warm
border under a sunny wall, where the soil is light and sandy.
With protection in the form of litter in winter it may live for
several years in such a spot. The species albus, speciosus, venustus
and pulchellus are all extremely pretty, and the bulbs, which may
be bought early in autumn, are not expensive. They are quite
suitable for pot culture, and may be treated like Hyacinths.

Chi&nodoxa (Glory of the Snow). — This ranks with the smaller
bulbs, such as Scillas and Snowdrops. There are several species
and varieties, all blue, blue and white, or white, the best known
being Luciliae, Tmolusii, grandiflora, and sardensis. The first
of these is the true Glory of the Snow. It has delightful blue
flowers with a white centre, grows to about the same height as
the Snowdrop, and is in bloom at the same time. It is a hardy,
attractive, inexpensive, and accommodating little bulb, and may
be represented in gardens where such little gems are loved.

Christmas Roses will be referred to under Herbaceous Plants,
and Colchicum autumnale under Rockery Flowers. Both are sold
by bulb-dealers.

Crinums. — Lovely bulbs are the Crinums, and if they were fully
hardy, which they are not, it is quite certain that they would be
largely grown in gardens. As it is, only those people who can
afford to take risks will grow them out of doors. Like the Bella-
donna Lily they can only be relied on in warm, sheltered places,
and in light, sandy soil. Cold, wet soils and exposed situations

38 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

are unsuitable. Powellii and capense, the former rose, the latter
pink, are two of the best for the open air.

Crocuses. — The charm of many of the species of Crocus will
be referred to (see Rockery Flowers), and bulb specialists are quite
likely to make a little collection of them. Whether that be done
or not, the value of the cheap Dutch Crocuses, which bulb-dealers
sell for a few shillings a thousand, will not be forgotten by the
majority of flower gardeners. Very hardy, very cheerful, very easy
to manage is the little Crocus. The Golden Yellow is particularly
bright, and it has comparatively large flowers. It has a very
enlivening effect when flowering in a broad mass. There is a whole
grassy hill of it at Kew, where thousands of flowers sparkle in the
March sunshine. Unfortunately, the birds are very prone to pulling
the flowers to pieces. Apologists for the feathered marauders say
that the latter are merely in pursuit of insects or water, but that
does not put the flowers together again. Lines of black thread should
be stretched above the flowers as a protection. Oddly enough, the
birds rarely attack the white, purple, and lilac Crocuses when there
are yellow ones near. As a change from Crocuses they will pull
Primroses to pieces, and again it is yellows which fare the worst.
This shows that the birds have a sense of colour. Why, though,
do they consider that yellow Crocuses contain more insects or more
moisture (which is it, apologists ?) than the other colours ?

The Crocuses are charming in lines to beds and borders, also
in grass and under trees. They are so cheap that they can be
planted in any quantities, and if the grower wants somewhat larger
flowers than the common, unnamed blue, white and striped yield,
he may buy larger varieties under name at a cost which, though
a trifle higher than for the others, is still very low.

The Crown Imperial (Fritillaria Imperialis) is a very hand^
some plant with large yellow, orange or red flowers, and it will
thrive in most soils. The Snake's-head Lily (meleagris) is also
a Fritillary, and a very interesting plant, but it has none of the

BULBS 39

showy beauty of its larger sister. It is cheap, and easy to manage,
thriving nearly anywhere.

Daffodils and Narcissi. — The true, typical Daffodil is the Lent
Lily, the botanical name of which is Narcissus pseudo-narcissus.
Popularly, Daffodils are Narcissi and Narcissi Daffodils, but to
be correct we may only speak of those Narcissi as Daffodils
which have long central tubes or trumpets. Every grower of
Narcissi will have noticed that the flowers are divisible, broadly,
into two parts : an outer ring of petals, called perianth segments,
and a central tube called the crown. In the big sorts like Emperor
and Empress the tube or " crown " is elongated into a trumpet, and
becomes the dominant part of the flower ; these are true Daffodils —
glorified Lent Lilies. In others, the tube diminishes into a small
saucer which finds its most minute proportions in the Poet's
Narcissus, poeticus ; these are not Daffodils. To claim the popular
name of Daffodil the crown must be as long as the perianth segments.

Wanting some plan of classifying Narcissi, the botanists adopted
that of comparing the length of the crown with that of the perianth
segments, and put them into three classes. The first, the Large-
Crowns (Magni-coronati), have flowers in which the crown is as
long as, or longer than, the outer petals. The second, the Medium-
Crowns (Medio-coronati\ have flowers in which the tube is only
about half the length of the segments. The third, the Small-
Crowns (Parvi-coronati\ have merely flattish, saucer-like crowns.
The classification is not a very satisfying one, and as the different
subsections have been crossed one with another there is a good
deal of confusion. But it need not worry ordinary growers. The
tangle may be left to the specialists, who will perhaps unravel it
some day.

The origin of the word "daffodil" is somewhat curious. It
is derived from the Greek asphodelus, through the Old French
asphodile, and the Middle English affodile. The addition of the
"d" as a prefix was doubtless due to casual misspelling. Of

40

BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

course there is a genus of plants called Asphodelus, popularly
Asphodel, and its members have the best right to the name
Daffodil, which, however, belongs to a plant of a different
botanical order.

Poets have made much use of the Daffodil, and if a name is
anything, poeticus is the true poet's Daffodil, but that is certainly
not the flower which Shakespeare had in mind when he wrote of

"Daffodils, that come before the swallow dares
And take the winds of March with beauty,"

because they do not flower until late April or May. He must

have referred to the Lent Lily, which
is an early bloomer, indeed all the
trumpets or Large - Crowns flower
early. An interesting and beautiful
member of the Large-Crowns class
is Bulbocodium or Corbularia. The
latter name springs from the likeness
of the crown to a basket (note also
"corbel" in architecture) — corbularia
meaning 3. small basket. Bulboco-
dium is yellow, and there is a charm-
ing white variety called monophylla

(one-leaf). In these pretty Daffodils the outer segments are quite
subordinate to the crown. The Medium-Crowns succeed the
Large, and are a most charming class. They are sometimes
called Chalice Daffodils, owing to the resemblance of the crown,
pointed out by that rare old writer Parkinson, to the wine
chalice at the Lord's Table. They are also spoken of as the
I ncom parables (Narcissus incomparabilis of botanists).

The Small-Crowns (poeticus and its varieties) bloom last. It
is claimed for the Poet's Narciss that it is the legendary flower
which sprang from the body of vain Narcissus, who

"Died to kiss his shadow in a brook."

DEPTH AT WHICH TO PLANT DIFFERENT BULBS
A, Snowdrops, Crocuses, or Scillas; B, Jon-

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PLANTING BULBS IN GRASS

A, bulbs; B, opening through turf. Bulbs
six inches apart.

BULBS 41

Be that as it may, it is an old and much-loved flower. The
crown is a mere orange rim, hence the name "pheasant's eye"
which is often applied to it. The bunch-flowered or Polyanthus
Narcissi (Narcissus Tazetta) are also Small-Crowns, and are late
bloomers when grown out of doors,
but they are almost exclusively culti-
vated under glass, where two varieties,
Paper White and Double Roman, flower
early.

The Daffodil lover does not get
out of his difficulty about classification
as soon as he has learned about the
three Crown sections, because when he opens the books and
catalogues he reads of such groups as Burbidgei, Leedsii, Humei,
and Barrii. These are hybrids, and take their names from the
hybridists who have produced them. Hybridisation is still going
on actively, and it may end in so complete a breaking up of

group distinctions that a totally new
system of classification will be called
for.

Let us leave that thorny subject,
and find pleasure in the reflection that
if the multiplication of hybrids is likely
to worry classifiers, it will at all events
be good for garden-lovers, because it
will give them more beautiful varieties
with which to work. Fortunately, the Daffodil is an easily
grown plant. It will thrive in most soils, but luxuriates in a
deep, cool, substantial medium. It may be used in beds, borders,
woodland and grass with equal effect. The bulbs may be planted
double their depth in September, October, or November. If the
soil is fertile increase will be rapid and propagation may be
effected by dividing the clumps.

(2,299) 4

NARCISSI IN BOXES

A, drainage ; B, compost ; C, bulbs ;
D, empty inverted box.

42 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

The Narcissi are also charming for pot culture, and may be
treated the same as Hyacinths. A method of growing them which

is rapidly increasing in favour is to
put them in undrained jars of green
ware, in peat-moss fibre. They thrive
admirably when thus grown, and are
beautiful for rooms.

They hav.e a special enemy, called
the Narcissus fly (Merodon equestris),
the maggots of which attack the bulbs
and cause them to decay. Any plants
that are found to be attacked should be
burned, in order to prevent the spread
of the enemy.

The number of Daffodils is so
enormous that the task of making a
selection is a very difficult one, but

the greater the number the greater the necessity for making the
attempt to reduce it, as a help to bulb-lovers who are not acquainted
with the best varieties. The following tables may be found useful.
All are cheap, unless a note to the contrary is added.

BULB-GROWING IN GLASSES, AND IN Moss
FIBRE IN VESSELS WITHOUT DRAINAGE

Receptacles suitable for Narcissi, Tulips, and
Snowdrops.

Ard Righ.
Bulbocodium.
Cyclamineus.
Emperor.

Albicans.
Cernuus.

LARGE-CROWNS.

Yellow Trumpets.
Glory of Leyden.
Golden Spur.
Henry Irving.
Johnstoni Queen of Spain.

White or Cream Trumpets.
Madame de Graaff (dear).
Moschatus.

King Alfred (dear).

Maximus.

Obvallaris (Tenby Daffodil).

Van Waveren's Giant (dear).

Pallidus praecox (early).
William Goldring.

White and Yellow Trumpets (Bicolors\

Duke of Bedford (dear).

Empress.

Grandis.

Horsefieldii.

Madame Plemp.

Michael Foster.

Mrs. Morland Crosfield (dear).

Mrs. Walter Ware.

Princeps.

Scoticus

Victoria.

Weardale Perfection (dear).

BULBS

43

Capax plenus.

Autocrat.
Barrii conspicuus.
C. J. Backhouse.
Gwyther.

Double Trumpets.
| Lobularis plenus. | Telamonius plenus (Van Sion).

MEDIUM-CROWNS.

Lucifer (dear).
Leedsii Duchess of West-
minster.
M. Magdaline de Graaff.

Juncifolius (Rush-leaved). Odorus rugulosus (sweet).

Red Coat.
Red Star.
Sir Watkin.
Stella Superba.
Triandrus (Angel's tears).

Double Chalice-flowered.
Butter and Eggs. | Orange Phoenix (eggs and bacon). | Sulphur Phoenix (codlins and cream).

Biflorus.

Burbidgei Ellen Barr.
„ John Bain.
Jonquilla (Jonquil).

Bathurst.

Double Roman (early).

SMALL-CROWNS.

Poeticus.

,, Almira.

„ Cassandra (dear).

„ ornatus (early).

Polyanthus Narcissi.

Grand Monarque.
Paper White (early).

Poeticus plenus (double or

Gardenia flowered).
,, poetarum.

Soleil d'Or.
White Pearl.

CHEAP AND PRETTY NARCISSI

It may be well to supplement the foregoing classified lists
with a general one prepared specially for the benefit of those
amateurs who want to plant in large quantities, and cannot afford
dear sorts. Happily, some of the cheapest are also among the
best. English-grown bulbs are offered at marvellously low prices
in autumn, and buyers might look out for advertisements of them
in the gardening papers. The list includes both early and late
flowering sorts.

Barrii conspicuus.
Butter and Eggs.
Emperor.
Empress.
Golden Spur.

Henry Irving.
Horsefieldii.
Obvallaris.
Pallidus praecox.
Poeticus.

Poeticus ornatus.

„ plenus.
Sir Watkin.
Telamonius plenus.

44 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

Dogs Tooth Violets (Erythroniums) will be mentioned under
Rockery Flowers ; they are pretty and cheap bulbs, procurable in
autumn.

Freesias are favourites with everybody, and their numbers look
like being increased by hybrids and cross-breds, for skilled men
are at work upon them, crossing the species and varieties. One
excellent hybrid, Chapmanii, has already been raised by a Sussex
florist, who crossed refracta alba with aurea, and then re-crossed
with the best of the offspring. In their early days of scarcity,
new Freesias, like all other new plants, will be relatively expensive ;
but the flower gardener who has to content himself with refracta
alba will suffer no hardship, for it is a beautiful flower and de-
liciously scented. Flowers can be got at midwinter by potting
bulbs in late summer. Lovers of the plant take care to get succes-
sions of it by potting bulbs at intervals. The soil recommended
for Hyacinths will do. Half-a-dozen bulbs may go into a medium-
sized pot. Some growers plunge the pots in fibre the same as in
the case of Hyacinths, but it is not necessary, and if it is done the
plants should be examined at short intervals, as they are apt to
push growth very quickly in a mild spell of weather, and if the
shoots run into the fibre they will be greatly weakened. After
the plants have flowered they may be gradually dried off, and when
at rest the bulbs may be taken from the soil and spread in a dry,
sunny spot for a few weeks ; this will ripen them thoroughly, and
insure them flowering well the following season.

Galtonia, sometimes grown under the name of Hyacinthus
candicans, is a tall, white-flowered bulb, which can be bought for
about a penny (at a still lower rate in quantity), and is well worth
including.

Gladioli will be referred to under Herbaceous Plants, and it
need only be said that they are among the most beautiful of the
plants of which bulb-dealers supply roots in a dry state in autumn,
winter, and spring.

BULBS

45

Hyacinths are loved by everybody. The poorest townsman
knows what "iercins" are, because he sees them in large beds in
the parks of London and provincial cities. The peasant widow
grows some in water for the window of her little sitting-room.
In pots, in glasses, in the soil of the open garden, the Hyacinth
is equally at home.

We speak of the Hyacinth as a Dutch bulb, not because it
originated in Holland, for it is an Eastern plant, but because it
is one of the plants specially cultivated on a
vast scale for commercial purposes in Holland.
The land between Leyden and Haarlem is
particularly suited to Hyacinth culture. The
sand is cut away until a level a few feet
above the peat-bed is reached, and a site is
thus secured which is well supplied with sub-
soil moisture — an essential to successful culti-
vation. The sand is enriched with cow manure.
Any cool, moist soil in England will grow
Hyacinths well, and people make a serious
mistake who suppose that it is sand which is UppeBr
the principal reason for the success in Holland,
and consequently attempt to grow Hyacinths
in sand in Great Britain, without a moisture-
holding stratum beneath it. We have grown the finest of
Hyacinths out of doors in the south of England, but it was not
in dry sand ; it was in cool, moist clay. Lovers of Hyacinths
should remember that water is the life blood of these plants, and
never stint them for moisture, whether indoors or out.

For greenhouse decoration, large, sound bulbs, firm at the base,
should be put into 5-inch pots in October or November, in a
compost of fibrous loam three parts, leaf-mould and decayed manure
one part each, and a tenth of the whole of coarse sand. The soil
should be moist when used, and pressed into a fairly firm, but

\

POTTING HYACINTHS

Lower figure. — A, shows
crown of Hyacinth B,
above the surface of soil
in pot.

46

BEAUTIFUL FLOWEKS

BULBS IN POTS UNDER SAND

A, bed of ashes; B, pots containing bulbs; C,
empty inverted flower-pots ; D, sand.

not actually hard, mass over a drainage of crocks and moss. About
half an inch of the top of the bulb should be left exposed. The
pots may be put together in a group in the garden on a bed of
cinders, and covered a few inches deep with cocoa-nut fibre refuse,

in order to check top growth until
roots have had time to form. In
from six to ten weeks, or when the
top growth is of the size of a filbert,
they may be brought into the green-
house. When the pots are full of
roots frequent supplies of water will
be needed, and liquid manure may
be given with advantage. The flower
spikes will need staking.
If they are to be grown in glasses care should be taken to choose
smooth, symmetrical bulbs, which will fit the necks of the recep-
tacles. The water may come close to the base without touching
it. One or two pieces of charcoal will
help to keep it pure ; should it become
thick and smelly it will be wise to pour
it away and substitute fresh, but this
should be done very carefully, so as to
avoid injuring or drying the roots. The
glasses should be kept in a dark cupboard
until the roots reach the bottom of the re-
ceptacle. A wire support, looped at the base
to clasp the neck of the bottle, will be neces-
sary to keep the plants from toppling over.

Hyacinths for the garden should be planted as early as possible
in November, and may be covered three inches deep. The more
deeply the soil is dug, and the more thoroughly it is broken up,
the more likely the plants are to thrive. Light soil must be
particularly well worked, and it should be manured liberally. Heavy

HYACINTHS IN POTS

Upper figure. — Bulb growing freely
when properly potted and watered.
Lower figure. — Bulb lifted out of
the soil by the roots when im-
properly potted, and not watered
to settle the soil at the outset.

BULBS 47

land will not need much manure. It is wasteful to dot odd bulbs
about the garden, because they produce no particular effect. Clumps
should be formed, and if they are thought to be a little stiff they
may be associated with Chalice Daffodils, which are generally in
bloom at the same time.

The following are good Hyacinths : —

Dark Blue.
Grand Maitre.
King of the Blues.

Light Blue.
Lord Derby.
Grand Lilas.

Grootvorst, red. |

Dark Red.
Robt. Steiger.
Von Schiller.

Pink and Rose.
Fabiola.
Norma.

White.

La Grandesse.
Grandeur a Merveille
(blush).

Yellow.
King of the Yellows.

Doubles.
Laurens Koster, blue. | La Tour (PAuvergne, white.

Muscaris, which are April bloomers of low growth, are commonly
spoken of as Grape, Feather or Musk Hyacinths, according to
the species. Thus, Muscari bo try tides > blue, is the Grape Hyacinth.
It is a pretty plant, and it has white, pale-blue and flesh-coloured
varieties. Muscari comosum monstrosum is the Feather Hyacinth ;
it is also blue. Muscari moschatum, blue and yellow, is the Musk
Hyacinth. There are other good Muscaris besides these, notably
conicum Heavenly Blue, which grows freely, especially in cool, moist
soils, and spreads rapidly.

Irises will be referred to under Herbaceous Plants. Let it be
remembered that many of the most charming are true bulbs. The
English and Spanish, which are so beautiful and yet so cheap,
are bulbs.

Ixias are not often grown out of doors, as they are not fully
hardy. If so cultivated they ought to have a warm spot, and be
protected with litter in winter. They are undeniably pretty, with
their graceful spikes and bright flowers ; and if not grown out of
doors a few might be tried in pots, being given the same treat-

48 BEAUTIFUL FLOWEES

ment as Hyacinths, except that several bulbs may be placed in
each pot. Flexuosa, pink ; speciosa, crimson ; and viridiflora,
green, are three attractive sorts.

Lachenalias are most attractive and distinct bulbous plants.
Many gardeners grow them in baskets suspended from the roof
of warm greenhouses, and they are used in this way at Kew,
where they form charming companions to Gloire de Lorraine
Begonias and other plants in March. The grower procures a wire
basket, lines it with moss, fills it with similar soil to that advised
for Hyacinths, and presses bulbs into it all round. Two of the
best species are Nelsoni, yellow, spotted leaves ; and tricolor,
green, red, and yellow, also with spotted leaves.

Leucojums (Snow/lakes) are favourites with bulb specialists.
The species aestivum is called the Summer Snowflake, but it is
rather a late spring than a summer bloomer. It grows about
eighteen inches high, and has large white flowers. The Spring
Snowflake (Leucojum vernum) flowers a few weeks earlier, and
also has white flowers tipped with green. It is not so tall as
aestivum. There are two pretty varieties of it, namely, carpathi-
cum and Vagneri. The former has yellow-tipped flowers, and
the latter is more free-flowering than the type. The Snowflakes
are very pretty, both in the border and rockery, and they are
easy to grow. They may be purchased and planted in autumn.

Liliums are the most majestic of all bulbous plants, and few
are the gardens which do not contain some representatives of this
noble genus, either grown out of doors or in pots. They are
valuable for every gardening purpose. The Lilies are worthy of
being specialised if any flowers are, and they will yield a rich
harvest of interest and beauty to whoever makes a study of them.
They come from different parts of the world, and they vary
greatly in habit, size of bloom, and colour. Some are powerfully
perfumed. With few exceptions they have large flowers, which
are distinguished by great substance and exquisite purity. In the

00
OH

BULBS

49

POTTING LILIUMS

A, drainage; B, bulb in soil; C, space
for topdressing.

main it may be said of them that they are easily grown, but they

are not entirely without their likes and dislikes, with which the

prudent grower will take care to make

himself acquainted for their and his own

benefit. Some like sun, and others shade.

A few, while robust and hardy, do best

when planted in such a position that they

have spring shelter for their young growths.

Some do best in peaty and others in loamy

soil. These peculiarities will be pointed

out in the present notes ; but first a few

general remarks.

Liliums that are to be grown in pots

for greenhouse and conservatory decoration should have a rela-
tively deep and narrow pot provided for them, because they

differ from most bulbs in producing a
mass of roots from the growing stem,
just above the bulb, and there should
be space for putting on top soil when
these roots come. Such pots are made,
but owing to the inconvenience of hav-
ing flower-pots of different shapes and
odd sizes, they are not often used. If
an ordinary flower-pot is employed the
grower must provide for the stem-roots

TOPDRESSING LILIUMS
Top Left-hand Figure: Right Method.-A, in OnC °f tWO WayS I by putting the

pT\°f^tuif; B' wm"ro™\Jop bulb very low down in the pot, or by

Right-hand Figure : Wrong Method. — J J

A, fine soil and lumps pressed down care- potting at the USUal level and placing

lessly ; B, stem-roots broken. Bottom r

Figure.— A, A, space to be topdressed ; a high Collar inside the rim of the OOt
B, original compost.

when the time arrives for applying fresh

soil. The latter is the better plan. It is not desirable to put
the bulbs very low in the pots, because it brings them close to
the drainage, which contains very little nutriment for the lower

50 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

roots. On the other hand, there is no objection whatever to an
elevated ring at the top. It may be made of a strip of zinc, and
may extend two or three inches above the top of the pot, thus
permitting of quite a liberal addition of soil. The stem-roots
will feed in it, and the plants will benefit greatly.

It is not every Lilium that is suited for pot culture. The
huge giganteum, for instance, is altogether too forceful a grower.
The commoner, hardy kinds, such as the Tiger Lily (tigrinum),
croceum, and chalcedonicum, look best out of doors. But such
refined Lilies as longiflorum (long-flowered) and its varieties, and
speciosum or lancifolium (which forms the subject of one of the
coloured plates), and varieties, are admirable for the purpose. The
Madonna Lily (candidum), elegans (thunbergianum), and its varieties,
and the Golden-rayed Japanese Lily (auratum), are often grown
in pots with success. The potting should be done as early in
autumn as the bulbs can be got, and the soil and general treat-
ment may be the same as for Hyacinths. The bulbs of auratum
purchased in autumn will be English ones, and if large, firm, and
solid, none can be better. The imported auratums are much cheaper,
but they do not arrive until winter or spring ; and do not, as a
rule, give such good results as the English bulbs. Perhaps the
most popular Lilies for pot culture are the Easter or Bermuda
Lily, which is a variety of longiflorum called Harrisii, and the
variety of speciosum known as album Kraetzeri. Both are pure
white, and are largely grown for market. It is well to pick off the
stamens of the latter before the pollen becomes ripe, otherwise it
will scatter and stain the flowers.

The most popular garden Lily is certainly auratum, and the
florists and collectors have given us some beautiful varieties of it.
The species, as is well known, has white flowers, with yellow stripes
and red dots. In the variety rubro-vittatum the yellow stripes
become crimson, and this is a very distinct and beautiful variety.
Wittei is pure white, and Virginale is marked only by a faint

BULBS 51

yellow stripe ; both are exquisitely beautiful. Platyphyllum is
distinguished by its broad leaves. The Golden-rayed Lily and its
bevy of beautiful daughters do not enjoy a stiff, heavy, wet soil,
nor do they care for sand ; they like loam, and they like peat.
They thrive best among Rhododendrons, if not overgrown, be-
cause not only does the loam-peat compost of which the beds are
composed suit them, but the spring shelter is very grateful.

The magnificent giganteum, which may attain to a height of
ten or twelve feet, is a very distinct Lily, with heart-shaped leaves.
It loves a moist, peaty, or loamy soil. It is necessary to have a
constant succession of bulbs coming on, because those that flower
one year are incapable of blooming the next, and the offsets which
they leave will not be strong enough to flower unless they are
exceptionally well suited by the soil and site.

The most showy of the Liliums are the Turk's Cap (Martagon),
the Panther (pardalinum), the Orange (croceum), and chalce-
donicum. These are cheap, easily grown kinds, succeeding almost
anywhere.

A few special sorts are Brownii, Hansoni, Henryi, Hum-
boldtii, Krameri, rubellum, sulphureum, testaceum, umbellatum,
and Washingtonianum. There are varieties of some of them,
differing in colour from the parents.

In the case of the Liliums grown from home bulbs it may be
taken as a rule that the earlier they are planted in autumn the
better, in fact, as soon as the flower stems die back, because
the bulbs begin to form new roots at once. It is particularly
necessary in the case of candidum. With respect to imported
bulbs, inasmuch as they sometimes get dry in transit, it is a
good plan to embed them in moist cocoa-nut fibre refuse for a
few days before potting or planting, in order to freshen them.

Liliums may be propagated by offsets, if these form, or by
partially embedding scales taken from the outside of fresh, healthy
bulbs in moist, sandy soil.

52 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

The plants do not escape enemies, and the fungoid disease
which attacks candidum is only too well known. Change of
ground, avoidance of richly manured soil, and the shaking up of
the bulbs in a bag of dry flowers of sulphur, may all be tried as
remedies.

The Lily of the Valley is not a Li Hum, but a Convallaria,
specific name, majalis. It is a modest little flower for so long a
botanical name. We love the Lily of the Valley, firstly, because
it is very pretty ; secondly, because it is very sweet ; and thirdly,
because we can get flowers of it in the winter, and practically all
the rest of the year as well. Science has come to the aid of the
grower with this charming denizen of British woodlands. The
lower part of the plant consists of a thickened stem, called a
" crown," which contains the flowers and leaves, like the bulb of a
Hyacinth. The large market grower takes a number of these
crowns while they are dormant, and puts them in a store, which
is kept at a low temperature. The cold is not extreme enough to
injure the crowns, but is sufficient to keep them at rest, and they
remain quiescent until they are put in a warmer place.

The home grower will not possess a cold store, and therefore
cannot have Lilies of the Valley in flower for the greater part of
the year, but he can buy crowns in autumn or early winter, and
get flowers from them in about twenty days if he subject them to
strong, moist heat. Unless very early flowers are wanted for a
particular purpose a handful of the crowns may be put together
loosely in a five- or six-inch pot, in soil similar to that advised
for Hyacinths, and plunged in fibre for a few weeks, as recom-
mended for those popular flowers. This treatment insures leaves
and flowers coming together, whereas under hard forcing the
flowers may come in advance of the foliage. One has to be
careful in buying these crowns. Bundles of them must not be
picked up at auctions merely because they are cheap, as they may
be thin and pointed, in which case they do not contain flowers.

BULBS 53

What are known to dealers as Berlin crowns, and which are as
thick as the little finger, generally bloom.

For late flowering in large pots, and also for planting out of
doors, the "clumps" offered by dealers are excellent. They
contain several crowns, some of which may bloom the first year
and others the following one. A cool, shady position is desirable.
The plants do not mind a light soil so long as they have shade,
but they will not thrive on a sun-scorched sandbank. The varieties
Victoria and Fortin are both superior to the common in size of
bloom, if not in sweetness.

Ornithogalums are somewhat burdened with names — in fact,
long names seem to " run in the family." For instance, three of
the best-known species are called respectively umbellatum, arabicum,
and longebracteatum. The first of these is the pretty, white, May-
blooming plant, growing about a foot high, called the Star of
Bethlehem. It is so well known by its popular cognomen that
fortunately we can dispense with the botanical name. It would be
well if the Arabian species also had a homely name to help it
along, for it is a pretty thing, and fragrant withal. It is white,
with a black central boss (the ovary), which gives it a distinct
appearance. It is not quite hardy, and is best grown in pots. The
third species named is a not uncommon window plant, and is con-
spicuous for its immense bulb, which stands quite above the soil.
It has greenish-white flowers.

The Ranunculus is a tuber, strictly speaking, not a bulb, but
it is one of the bulb-dealer's stock items. Perhaps he had more
demand for it in years gone by than he has now, for once upon a
time it was a "florist's flower," like "Bizarre" Tulips and " Flake"
Carnations. It is not so now. Like the Verbena, it has fallen
from grace. It is a brilliant flower, and embraces a great variety
of colours, but it lacks freedom, grace, and suitability for cutting.
It is, in short, a frigid beauty.

The tuber is a very singular structure, unlike that of any

54 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

other well-known "bulb." It consists of a number of claws
springing from a flattish plate, which is the point from which the
growth starts ; the claws, therefore, must go downward. The
tubers are procurable in autumn, and may be planted then or
towards the end of winter, about an inch deep. If planted in
autumn litter or bracken ought to be spread over the bed. They
will thrive in most kinds of soils, but those growers who want to
have them in perfection will take care to work the ground well,
and to add leaf-mould, road grit, and loam if available, if the soil
is very stiff. Several strains are offered by dealers, and the Turban
and the Persian may be chosen, although the French are larger.
Tubers can be bought in mixture, or varieties can be got under
names. They flower in late spring and early summer.

Scillas are very modest flowers, but they have their uses.
Sibirica, the blue Squill, is a pretty and serviceable little plant.
It blooms, together with its white variety, in February. Bifolia
is a charming little plant, which flowers in March. There are
several varieties of it, including a white (alba) and a pink (Pink
Beauty). The wild " Bluebell," or Wood Hyacinth, is a Scilla, and
its specific scientific name is variously given as nutans and festalis.
There are pink and white varieties of this also. It is an April
bloomer. The Spanish Squill (Scilla hispanicd), blue, and its
varieties bloom in March. There are several different shades of
blue, likewise red, rose, and white. Peruviana is a handsome
May-blooming Scilla, with lilac flowers; there are blue and white
varieties. They are not quite hardy, and if grown out of doors
must have a sheltered place.

Tigridias are not largely grown, but one sometimes sees a
bed of them in a park or botanical garden, where they set the lay
tongue wagging. There are few flowers brighter and more glowing,
and, on the other hand, few more fleeting. The Tigridia is here
to-day and gone to-morrow. Pavonia and its varieties, aurea, yellow ;
alba, white; and conchiflora, deep yellow, are the best known.

BULBS 55

They must have a sheltered place and protection, if they are to
be left out of doors all the winter.

Tuberoses. — For culture in pots few plants of equally easy
culture are more desirabk than these, for they produce pure white
fragrant flowers. Potting should be done as early in autumn as
possible and successively to insure a prolonged supply of blooms.
They should be treated similarly to Hyacinths.

Tulips. — Hardy, brilliant, easy to grow, the Tulip is one of
our most valuable bulbs, and we shall
reap a rich reward if we give it a little
study and grow some of the best varieties
in our gardens. It will give us a vivid
blaze of colour if we grow some of the
bright varieties in groups or masses, but
it will also give us many delicate and
dainty little pictures if we choose the
softer-hued sorts, and grow them in
selected positions with or without a car-
pet of low-growing plants. The Tulip-
" fancier" does not care for either a
"blaze" or a "picture"; the only things
that interest him are the marking and
the form of the flower. This is taking

a somewhat narrow view, perhaps, but it must not be con-
demned unreservedly. The spirit in which a florist approaches a
flower is not the spirit of the artist, but it has something to com-
mend it. By setting up a high standard of flower beauty the
florist has certainly been instrumental in the production of improved
flowers. The fact that he does not know how to make the best
use of the material when he has got it, only goes to prove that it
takes more than one class of mind to make beautiful gardens. It
is necessary for those who work for garden effects to recognise
the limitations of florists, and it is particularly so in the case of

POTTING TUBEROSES

Tuber. — A, side shoots; B, side shoots
removed ; C, crown growth. Small
Figure. — A, tuber; B, compost ; C,
crown of tuber just clear of soil.

56 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

the Tulip specialists, because the show bloom is one of the least
valuable of this genus for flower-garden decoration. It is a flower
of splendid substance, beautiful form, and exquisite markings, but
it is not very effective in groups. Those who love it do not
grow it as a flower-garden plant really, although they grow it
in the flower garden. They make a bed for it, preparing a special
compost, if the natural soil of the garden is not of the best. This
and all other classes of Tulips love a deep, friable, moist, but
not water-logged soil. The fact that they are grown extensively
on the sand dunes of Holland must not lead the Tulip-lover to
suppose that they will give of their best in pure sand. There is
not substance and fertility enough in such soil. The Dutch bulbs
are good, but equally good, even better ones, are grown in Lincoln-
shire, Cambridgeshire, and Kent. The finest bulbs that we ever
saw were grown on heavy loam in Kent. They were much larger
than the Dutch bulbs, although not quite so clean and bright
skinned. Apropos of this, it may be well to say that a clear,
bright skin is not the chief standard of merit in a Tulip. The
buyer should look first for relatively large size and solidity. The
bulbs should be heavy in proportion to their size, and firm. Tulips
will grow vigorously and flower gloriously in clay, provided that
it is thoroughly friable ; but clay in stiff, hard, yellow lumps is not
to their taste. Stiff soil can be rendered friable by breaking it
up two feet deep, and incorporating road sweepings, mortar rubbish,
and ashes with it. The required condition may not come all at
once — it certainly cannot be got by the mere waving of a rake —
but it will come if perseverance, allied with knowledge, is practised.
It is very important to learn when clay soil may be cultivated,
and when it is best left alone. It should not be touched when
it is very wet. A water-logged site is very bad for Tulips ; the
soil should be drained. The heavier the soil is in natural texture
the less yard manure it will require. Generally a dressing of
bone flour and sulphate of potash in equal parts, at the rate of

BULBS 57

three ounces per square yard, turned in two or three weeks before
planting, will be better than manure fresh from a yard or stable.
In the case of light soil a dressing of natural manure, preferably
from cowyards, will be an advantage.

There is no doubt whatever that, given good bulbs and well-
cultivated soil, Tulips can be grown successfully in almost any
garden, whether it be in town or country. The large, sound, well-
developed bulb contains everything the grower wants — stem, leaf,
and bloom ; and it only remains for him to bring them out to
the best advantage by providing suitable site and soil. Many
people like to grow them in pots, and they succeed under the
same treatment as Hyacinths, but three or five bulbs may be
grown in a pot instead of one.

Tulips have two great advantages over their sister bulb, the
Hyacinth : the growth is more graceful, and the period of flower-
ing, if all the classes are taken into account, is a great deal
longer. The latter is an important point. By making a suitable
selection we can have Tulip blooms for fully three months. The
season opens with a very early section called Due van Thol,
which is succeeded by the Early Dutch, both single and double;
with the Darwin and the Cottage Tulips bringing up the rear.
We might classify the sections as follows for outdoor flowering:
March bloom, Van Thols ; April, Early Dutch ; May, Darwin
and Cottage. The rearguard is the flower of the Tulip army.
The Van Thols are pretty enough, and make nice little patches of
colour among Scillas, but they only grow a few inches high, and
have small flowers. The Darwin and Cottage sections have flower
stems two feet long, surmounted by immense blooms.

Inasmuch as the bulbs are cheap, except in the case of special
new varieties of the May-blooming section, the Tulip-lover will
be wise to grow some of all these classes. He can buy and
plant in October or November. It is desirable to plant before
the bulbs show signs of growth at the apex. The old bulbs die

(2,299) 5

58 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

after flowering, but new ones form. If the soil is good the
largest of the new bulbs will be strong enough to bloom the
following year; the remainder will be little offsets that will require
a year or two's time to grow to flowering size. It is well to lift
the plants after the foliage has decayed, dry and clean the bulbs,
and replant in autumn. If the plants are growing in positions
where the decaying leaves are unsightly, or if the ground they
occupy is wanted for other plants, the flower-stems may be broken
off directly the blooms fade, and the plants carefully lifted and
transferred to a reserve bed. This tractability on the part of the
Tulips encourages the flower gardener to make groups of them in
the front of his herbaceous borders, where they interfere with
nothing, and make brilliant clumps of colour in spring; and
whence they can be moved in early summer if desired.

Some of the species of Tulips are very beautiful, and must
not be overlooked. The one shown in the coloured plate,
Clusiana, with its charming rose-flaked flowers, is only one of
several that are worth growing in flower gardens. There is a
white variety of it, called alba. They are low growers and late
bloomers, often flowering as late as June. Billietiana, yellow, is
a much larger species, and also flowers late. A variety of this,
called Sunset, is often included in catalogue lists of Cottage
Tulips, and is a very fine thing indeed. Gesneriana is one of
the noblest of the species, and bears huge red flowers in May.
Among many varieties the pale yellow one, called lutea, is par-
ticularly fine. Greigi, a dwarf April bloomer, with red or red and
yellow flowers, is a popular species. These are a few of the best,
but the following are also good : macrospeila, crimson with black
blotch, two feet high, a May bloomer; patens or persica, a dwarf
yellow species, flowering in May; sylvestris, yellow, about eighteen
inches high, blooming in May ; Batalinii, dwarf, lemon coloured ;
Leichtlini, pink and white, dwarf; linifolia, dwarf, scarlet; primu-
lina, dwarf, red and yellow ; retroflexa, dwarf, yellow, petals curved

BULBS 59

outwards; and vitellina, medium height, yellow. The last five are
mid-spring bloomers.

With respect to the sections, the lists of varieties in the bulb
catalogues are very long, and apt to be puzzling ; we will therefore
make selections from them.

MARCH BLOOMERS.

Due van Tholt red and yellow,
scarlet.

Due van Thol, white.
„ „ yellow.

One or two of the earliest of the Dutch, such as Proserpine, may be in bloom in a

mild March.

Artus, scarlet.

Bride of Haarlem, white,

feathered scarlet.
*Brunhilde, buff, white

flames.

Chrysolora, yellow.
* Cottage Maid, rose and

white.

Crimson King, crimson.
*Joost van Vondel, crimson,

flaked white.

Blanche HAtive, white,
early.

Couronne des Roses, rose.

Cramoisie Superbe, scar-
let.

APRIL BLOOMERS.
Single.

*Joost van Vondel, white.
*Keizers Kroon, scarlet

and yellow.
Lac van Rhyn, cherry

red with white

edge.

*Le Reve, pink.
*0phir a" Or, yellow.
*Pink Beauty, pink and

white.

Double.

*ImperatorRubrorum, scar-
let.

*La Candeur, white.

Mariage de ma Fille, crim-
son and white.

* 'Prince of Austria, orange.
*Proserpine, dark, silky

rose.
Queen of the Whites, pure

white.
Thomas Moore, orange.

* Vermilion Brilliant, scar-

let.

* White Swan, white.
Wouverman, claret.

*Salvator Rosa, rose.
Toumesol, red and yellow.
* „ yellow.
Yellow Rose, yellow, sweet.

Annie, yellow.
Bridesmaid, rose and

white.
Buenaventura, scarlet and

yellow.
* Dainty Maid, lilac and

white.

MAY BLOOMERS.

Gala Beauty, scarlet and
yellow.

Golden Crown, yellow, crim-
son edge.

Golden Eagle, yellow.

*Herschel, scarlet.

*Inglescombe Scarkt,scarlet.

Loveliness, rose.

Minister Tak van Poort-

vliet, salmon.
*Picotee, white, rose edge.
Pride of Haarlem, rosy red.
The Moor, crimson.
*The Sultan, maroon.

* Those marked with an asterisk may be chosen if the full lists are too long.

60 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

One may get some very fine Tulips from a good mixture of
Darwins, and any one who cannot afford the price of named
varieties of May bloomers should try this inexpensive source of
getting good late-flowering Tulips.

What are termed florists' Tulips are late bloomers. As we
have said, they are flowers for specialists rather than for flower
gardeners; but there is no denying their great beauty when well
grown, and therefore we will give selections of them. They are
divided into four sections: Bizarres, Bybloemens, Roses, and
Breeders. The first have yellow-ground flowers ; the second white-
ground flowers marked with purple ; the third white grounds
marked with red ; the fourth are self- or one-coloured flowers.

Bizarres.

Dr. Dalton.
Dr. Hardy.
Masterpiece.
Sir Joseph Paxton.

Bybloemens.

Attraction.

Bessie.

Nulli Secundus.

Talisman.

Roses.

Annie Macgregor.
Heroine.
Mabel.
Modesty.

Breeders.

Excelsior.

Glory of Stakehill.

Mabel.

Sam Barlow.

Parrot and variegated-leaved are minor sections of Tulips which
some bulb-lovers like to grow. The former is a quaint, yet gay
section, consisting of some half-dozen distinct varieties. The latter
is a replica of certain popular early Dutch varieties ; that is, the
flowers are the same, but the leaves are marked with yellow or
white instead of being wholly green.

<,.'. HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS

THE old style of flower gardening, with its ribbon borders and
tender plants put out in beds late in May, is supposed by supporters
of hardy flowers to have passed away for ever. A glance over some
of the principal nurseries and market gardens in spring, or of the
public parks in summer, would show how mistaken that supposition
is. There are probably more Zonal Geraniums (Pelargoniums)
grown in gardens at the present time than there were in the days
when this flower was in the heyday of its popularity ; but they have
become commonplace, and are not much talked about.

Hardy herbaceous plants are now discussed and exhibited as
tender bedders once were. We see group after group of them at
the great flower shows. Geraniums may be exhibited by one
nurseryman, and hardy plants by twenty. Well-to-do amateurs,
who used to specialise in Geraniums, now vent their enthusiasm
on Phloxes, Paeonies, Delphiniums, and Pyrethrums. We as little
expect to see fashion cultivating ribbon borders as wearing crino-
lines and high stocks.

Is the change to be deplored ? Assuredly, no. The cheerful old
Zonal nobly played a part, and indeed plays it still. It is a bright,
free-blooming, general utility plant — a sort of maid-of-all-work among
flowers. But the combinations which it forms with its sister bedders,
the yellow Calceolaria and the blue Lobelia, lack the interest and
variety of associations of the finest hardy plants.

The tendency in flower gardening nowadays is to have an expanse
of well-kept turf where geometrical bedding designs formerly existed,
and to surround the grass with broad borders, filled with chosen
hardy flowers. If the borders are as spacious as the size of the

62

BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

HERBACEOUS BORDERS

A, path ; B, B, borders ; C, C, boundary
of borders.

garden will permit, are well cultivated, and are furnished with good,
carefully selected plants, even the warmest supporters of the old
regime will admit that they are superior, both in beauty and interest,
to formal beds. They are attractive for the greater part of the year,

they give varied and ever-changing
effects, and they yield large quantities
of beautiful flowers for rooms.

The coloured plates that accompany
the present notes show many beautiful
examples of herbaceous borders ; but
before considering the plants which
compose them individually, it may be
well to offer a few general hints about
the arrangement and cultivation of
hardy flowers.

In the first place, it is wise to
make borders as wide as possible.

Some of the finest of herbaceous plants, such as Paeonies and Del-
phiniums, attain to considerable dimensions when planted in fertile
soil, and crowding is apt to take place
in a narrow border. But that is not
the only trouble. When the different
kinds are bunched, none shows to ad-
vantage. Their individual beauties are
lost. Six feet should be the minimum
width of a border ; twelve feet will be
much better.

Secondly, the ground for a herba-
ceous border should be prepared as
thoroughly as a kitchen gardener would prepare it for prize
Onions ; that is to say, it should be dug to double the depth of
a large-sized spade, and have a liberal dressing of manure incor-
porated. It should be dug in autumn or winter if possible, so

PREPARING GROUND FOR BORDERS

A, soil well broken up ; B, soil generously
manured ; C, loosened sub-soil.

END VIEW OF PLANTS IN BORDERS
A, front of border ; B, back of border.

And they put in three where there is

HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS 63

that it may have time to settle down before planting time comes

in March and April.

Thirdly, and not least important, careful consideration should

be devoted to the selection

and arrangement of the

plants. The interpretation

which some people put upon

the term "mixed border"

is unconvincing. They

"mix" with a vengeance.

They cram in all kinds of

plants, without any thought

as to how they will har-
monise with each other.

only space for one.

Three cardinal points may be urged on makers of herbaceous

borders, (i) To avoid putting in any
plants without considering the propor-
tions and colours of its neighbours ;
(2) to allow sufficient room for every
plant to display its individual charac-
teristics ; and (3) to arrange the plants
in groups which are beautiful in them*
selves, and likewise make a harmonious
whole ; so that the border may be
viewed in sections, or as a complete
path, or space between the plants and entity, with equal pleasure. Are these

the wall; B, B, plants in the borders.

Suitable for different kinds of herbaceous requirements difficult tO provide ? No.

plants for prolonging the flowering period. .

It is true that they involve a little

study, forethought, and restraint. It is equally true that they
make demands on the artistic powers of the flower gardener
which ribbon borders do not. But when we grant these things
we concede nothing that is alarming or disagreeable; indeed,

NORTH AND SOUTH BORDERS
N, north border ; S, south border ; A, A,

64 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

the contrary is the case, for acquiring a knowledge of good hardy
plants, and learning how to arrange them, is a delightful study.

Our coloured plates do not show us wild tangles of plants,
huddled together in dense, indistinguishable masses — dishevelled
and incoherent. They show us beautiful groups of particular plants.
And the lover of herbaceous borders will do well to take to heart the
lesson that they teach, and which is here emphasised. It is far
better to make up a border of a dozen different kinds of plants than
to pack it with fifty genera. If the objection is raised that this

entails a want of diversity, the answer is
that such is far from being the case, be-
cause of the number of varieties which
exist of all the principal kinds. Let the
flower gardener take up a catalogue of
hardy plants, and he may find anything
between twenty and fifty distinct varieties
of Phloxes, Sweet Peas, Paeonies, and all
the leading hardy flowers.

Forethought is very necessary. It is
hard for the amateur to realise that the
little plants which he puts in in spring
will, at the end of three months, have extended several feet. In
the remarks on special plants which are to follow an idea of their
dimensions will be given as a guide, and to further help the
beginner the colours of the varieties will be mentioned also.

The arrangement of the plants in a series of groups, in order to
secure similar effects to those seen in the coloured plates, really
simplifies, rather than confuses, the task of making beautiful borders.
If a flower gardener with little experience saw before him a long
stretch of bare earth, and attempted to formulate a collective scheme
for filling it, he would find himself perplexed and bewildered. Many
do find themselves in such a dilemma, and in sheer helplessness and
ignorance put in ( " stick in " would be a pardonable phrase in such

NEGLECTED CLUMPS

Large clumps, when left for a long time
without lifting and dividing, become
weak near the centre. A, A, outside
of clump growths are strong. B, in-
side of clump growths are weak.

WALLFLOWERS
By E. Fortescue Brickdale

HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS 65

circumstances) everything that comes along, and in the order in
which it presents itself. In such haphazard fashion are mixed
borders often formed. But if the amateur marked out a given
number of sites in the border, extending its whole length, and
established a group on each, he would at once discover that he had
a definite scheme to work on, which gave him the nucleus of a
beautiful border forthwith.

The leading idea should not be to cover every square inch of
surface at the earliest possible moment. That inevitably leads to
ultimate overcrowding. Bare earth in
spring and early summer is not in the
least offensive, so long as it is not
weedy. With clear spaces between the
different groups the hoe can be plied
freely and conveniently when the ground
dries after every shower, to the swift
destruction of weeds, and the immense
benefit of the proper occupants of the
border.

Later in the year confusion is often
caused by the falling about of the

growths of tall plants in windy weather. This should be cor-
rected at once by staking and tying. In this connection the
amateur may be advised to remember that tight "bunching-up "
is undesirable, and that a tie near the bottom of a plant,
and another near the top, will generally hold it more evenly
and securely than one in the middle. Plants with flower stems
which droop gracefully, such as Solomon's Seal, Foxgloves, and
Gladioli, should not be held as straight and stiff as soldiers
on parade.

It has been mentioned that spring is a good time for planting
herbaceous borders, but it may be done in autumn or winter
(except when the ground is hard with frost), if more convenient.

HERBACEOUS BORDER WITH TURF

A, border ; B, wall, or fence, or background ;
C, grass ; D, path.

66

BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

Nearly all the different kinds may be propagated by division from
October to April inclusive.

The amateur should not be afraid to impart a little individuality
to his herbaceous borders. It is not often, probably, that he will see
stumps, or pillars, or mounds of rock introduced into them, but
that is no reason why he should not utilise them if he thinks fit.
As a matter of fact, a few gnarled, lichen-covered, weather-worn
tree boles, partially hidden in rambling Roses, Clematises, and
Honeysuckles, form a quaint, interesting, and beautiful background

to Lilies, Delphiniums, Hollyhocks, and
other fine border plants. Such pillars
may be made the central figure of
some of the border groups, and by
breaking up stiff outlines, providing
irregularity of height, and at the same
time giving support to graceful and
beautiful plants, they will add greatly
to the charm of the border.

The flower gardener should not allow
himself to be tied down by definitions.
" Herbaceous plants " has come to
signify perennial plants, but there is no reason whatever why
beautiful annuals like Sweet Peas, China Asters, Ten-week Stocks,
Phlox Drummondii, Salpiglossis, and Zinnias should not be in-
cluded. In their case, as in that of the perennials, the plants
should be set in distinct groups.

What, it may be asked, constitutes a " group " ? Does it mean
half-a-dozen plants, or does it mean fifty? Other things being
equal, a large group will give a finer effect than a small one, but
it must be remembered that the size as well as the number of the
plants has to be considered. Here the effects of cultivation come
in. In rich, moist soil plants will grow to double the size that they
will in poor, dry ground. A group of six plants may be more

PLANTING
A, right depth to plant ; B, too deep.

HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS 67

effective than one of twelve. Another item to be considered is the
habit of the particular plants. Owing to its bushy, spreading nature,
one healthy Paeony plant will fill up as much space as a dozen
Phloxes, with their slight, upright growth. The number of plants
to constitute a "group" may vary from three to twelve, according
to the size of the border and the habit of the plants.

It is sometimes difficult to insure a fine and continuous effect
in a small border without making two plantings, but the little
trouble involved in this is so amply compensated by the results
obtained that it should never be
grudged. As an instance, it is not
easy to get spring beauty in border
groups without introducing bulbs,
such as Tulips. Now these bril-
liant flowers become unsightly when
the bloom is gone, because of the
fading of the foliage. If they are
left in the border they mar its
beauty; if they are taken up and
the ground left bare the gaps are
noticeable. The proper course here
is undoubtedly to form a reserve of good Asters and Stocks,
which may be planted out when the Tulips fade. There is no
need to wait until the latter have lost their foliage. They can
be transplanted to a reserve bed directly the bloom is over, which,
in the case of the late-flowering sections now so popular, may be
the end of May or the early half of June.

The Ivy-leaved Geranium is another plant which comes in useful
as a successional plant, and the first half of June is an excellent time
to plant it out. A very pretty effect is produced if low stumps, over
which the plants may ramble, are put in the border.

Even more valuable, because of the ease with which it can be
raised in quantity from seed in winter or spring, and its long period

PLANTING IN THREES
A, B, and C, clumps.

68

BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

of blooming, is the Snapdragon. It can be planted out at almost
any period of the summer, flourishes in nearly all soils, and is very
brilliant in colour.

One last suggestion for maintaining the beauty of borders may
be made, and that pertains to the autumn. It is to grow a selection
of Chrysanthemums in a spare plot throughout the summer, and
when some of the larger of the herbaceous (that is, stem-losing)
plants fade, and become unsightly, to cut them down, and plant the
Chrysanthemums near them. Herbaceous borders are often ugly
and untidy after August, simply because the summer-flowering plants
are past their best, and there is nothing to carry on the display.
The provision of autumn-blooming plants, such as Michaelmas
Daisies and Golden Rod, when the border is first formed, will do
something to prevent this, but the introduction of the Chrysan-
themums can still be effected with advantage.

The importance of forming the nucleus of a border by making
a selection of the best plants, and arranging that they comprise kinds
which flower at different seasons, is so great that we give a table
containing the names of first-class plants, with their flowering seasons.
Subsequently, the various kinds are dealt with individually.

Anemones, Crown.
Aquilegias (Colum-
bines).

Crown Imperials.
Daffodils.

Anemones, Crown.
Antirrhinums (Snap-
dragons).
Asters.
Begonias.
Campanulas.
Cannas.

Canterbury Bells.
Delphiniums.
Evening Primroses.

Spring.
Doronicums.
Forget-me-nots.
Irises.
Paeonies.
Phloxes.

Summer.
Foxgloves.
Gaillardias.
Gladioli.
Hollyhocks.
Irises.

Kniphofias (Tritomas).
Lilies.
Lupins.

Ox-eye Daisies.
Paeonies.

Primroses and Polyan-
thuses.
Pyrethrums.
Tulips.
Wallflowers.

Pansies.

Poppies.

Pentstemons.

Phloxes.

Roses.

Stocks.

Sunflowers.

Sweet Williams.

Violas.

HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS

Anemones, Japanese.
Asters.
Christmas Roses.

Autumn and Winter.

Chrysanthemums.
Dahlias.

Irises.

Michaelmas Daisies.

Anemones. — Many of the Anemones are dwarf plants, more
suitable for the rockery than the herbaceous border, but there are
two notable exceptions, the Crown and the Japanese Anemones.
The former bloom in spring and summer, and the latter in late
summer and early autumn. There are two special strains of Crown
Anemones, the St. Bridgid and the Alderborough. If readers have
seen groups of Anemones at the large flower shows with double
and semi-double flowers as large as Roses, brilliant rose, pink,
scarlet, blue, and mauve in colour, they have probably seen Alder-
borough Anemones. One can buy roots of these, or seeds. It
would secure a succession of bloom if some of the roots were
planted in autumn and others in spring. They might be buried
about an inch deep. They grow about a foot high, and make the
most beautiful beds and border clumps imaginable. The Japanese
Anemone is a totally different plant, alike in habit, bloom, and
foliage. It grows about three feet high, and the best varieties have
single white, pink, or rose flowers about two inches across. It is
very graceful and beautiful, and as it thrives in most kinds of soil,
and spreads freely, it ought to be specially marked. It can be
increased by division in spring. The Japanese Anemone is shown
in one of the coloured plates.

Antirrhinums (Snapdragons). — There are no finer or more valu-
able bedding or border plants than the Snapdragons. The flower
gardener who finds himself disposed to look somewhat disdainfully
on this old flower should make himself acquainted with the modern
strains of the Scottish florists, which have large flowers of the most
lovely colours. How can he effect this purpose? The cheapest
way is to buy a packet of seed from one of the leading firms, and
grow them for himself. He will find them very easy to manage. If

70

BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

he sows his seed in a frame in March he will probably have the
plants in bloom in July, and when once fairly started they will keep
growing and flowering for several weeks — in fact, the period may
easily run to months, for the Snapdragon is about the most con-
tinuous grower and bloomer of all hardy plants. He can propagate
the best of the seedlings by cuttings.

Aquilegias (Columbines). — These are quaint as well as beautiful
flowers, with their long spurs. They are deservedly popular, for
they are graceful in habit, bloom freely, and have attractive colours.
They are raised quite easily from seed, and it is a good plan to sow
about the end of May for flowering the following year. Of the

several beautiful kinds californica hy-
brida, caerulea hybrida, glandulosa, and
chrysantha are worthy of special men-
tion. All of them can be got separately.
Asters, China, and Perennial
(Michaelmas Daisy). — The China Aster
is not recognised by botanists as an Aster
at all ; their Aster is the Michaelmas
Daisy. If the China Aster had its full

botanical deserts it would be burdened with the formidable name of
Callistephus ; let us hope that it will never get them. We have
already seen how useful it is for transplantation to the border when
some early flowering plant, such as the Tulip, has passed its best.
The flower gardener can buy several quite distinct types, such as the
Ostrich Plume, the Comet, and the Victoria. He will find all of
these valuable, with the first named for choice. He can buy the seed
in mixed or separate colours, just as he likes. An assortment
of six separate colours will cost rather more than a mixed packet,
but it will give the grower the advantage of being able to
arrange the colours to his taste. In arranging plants from mixed
seed he is working in the dark. He may sow in March or April,
preferably, but not necessarily, in a frame or greenhouse. He will

SOWING SEEDS IN PANS

A, drainage ; B, soil covering seeds
C, seeds.

HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS 71

be wise to sow thinly, to cover lightly, to prick the plants off (if
raised under glass) about three inches apart into boxes before they
become crowded in the seed pans, to avoid letting the soil get quite
dry, and to give abundance of air in fine weather. The only
remaining source of anxiety is the black fly, which attacks the
plants in late spring, and will spoil them if it is not attacked in
turn. Tobacco powder, or very hot water with an ounce of soda
to the gallon, will kill it if used promptly. If the plants begin to
get crowded in the boxes before the ground is ready for them
they may be planted out nine inches apart in a reserve bed, from
which they can be shifted at any time. The perennial Asters are
magnificent for autumn blooming, and are the easiest of plants
to grow, thriving in most soils, and being readily propagated by
dividing the clumps, preferably when growth is starting in spring.
There are many varieties, of which Bessarabicus, Framfieldii, and
Riverslea (forms of the species Amellus), Mrs. Rayner and Wm.
Bowman (forms of the species Novi-Angliae) and ericoides are a
few of the best. Alpinus and Novi-Belgii are also good.

Begonias. — The most popular class of Begonia at the present day
is the tuberous rooted, of which the flowers fade and the stems
wither in autumn, but the tubers pass the winter in a dry store, in
a dormant state, and start growing again in spring. It is not hardy,
and is used extensively for greenhouse and conservatory decoration,
but that is no reason why so brilliant and beautiful a flower should
not be used for the summer decoration of the flower garden. The
tubers may be started in a box containing leaf mould or cocoa-nut
fibre refuse, and the young plants put out early in June. The
modern strains are very fine, alike in the size of the flowers, the
habit of the plants, and the brilliancy and diversity of the colours.
The plants make gay beds and clumps in borders. Begonias are
more fully referred to in the section devoted to bulbs and green-
house plants.

Campanulas. — The fact that the Canterbury Bell is a Campanula

72

BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

can hardly fail to prepossess amateurs in favour of this genus.
When they have studied it a little they will find that it contains
plants very little less valuable than the old favourite named. Some,
such as pulla, turbinata, and carpathica, are quite dwarf; others,
like the splendid double white peach-leaved Campanula (persicifolia
alba flore pleno) and glomerata dahurica, are of medium height ;
while still others, such as the fine pyramidalis (which, however, is
generally grown in pots) are nearly as tall as Hollyhocks. The
Campanulas are mostly either blue or white. Some are annuals,
others biennials, and yet others perennials. The first are best raised

from seed sown in spring, the second
and third from seed sown in early
June, or by division of the root-
stocks.

Cannas. — Like tuberous Begonias
and Zonal Geraniums, Cannas (In-
dian Shot) are grown extensively
for both greenhouse and flower
garden. They are extraordinarily
brilliant flowers, some of the colours

being vivid in the extreme. The flowers are borne on long
stems, which stand well up above the large green or brownish
purple leaves, so that they are very effective in beds or clumps.
They are easily raised from seed, but this is difficult to get of the
best varieties, such as Madame Crozy, Italia, and Austria, and if
it were the colours might not come true. The plants form tubers,
which are lifted in autumn, stored under greenhouse stages, and
divided in the spring. Divisions form plants which keep true to
colour. Cannas love a deep, rich, moist soil.

Canterbury Bells. — The rise of some modern flowers has not
caused old favourites like the Canterbury Bell to decline, nor is
it likely to do so, considering how powerful its claims are. Its
compact habit, great profusion of bloom, brilliant colours, duration,

PLANTING SEEDLINGS IN NURSERY BEDS

A, distance between the rows ; B, distance
between the plants in the rows.

HAKDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS 73

and cheapness (for several hundreds of plants can be raised from one
packet of seed sown at the end of May) combine to render it indis-
pensable. There are blue, rose, and white varieties, and there is a
duplex-flowered form (calycanthema) which is commonly called the
cup-and-saucer Campanula. No flower gardener of limited means
can afford to ignore the Canterbury Bell. It is one of those things
of which he should make a special note. It will give him striking
beds and beautiful border clumps at a cost of a few pence. As
fast as the flowers fade he will pick them off, and fresh buds will
form in abundance. If people are disposed to be hypercritical,
and to complain that the Canterbury Bell is a common cottage
garden flower, let them remember that they can always give it
individuality by special care in cultivation — thin sowing, planting
out a foot apart in nursery beds for the summer, and rich, deep
soil in its permanent position.

Christmas and Lenten Roses (Hellebores}. — Outdoor bloom in
the dead of winter is not so common that we can afford to ignore
any plant which gives it. Still less can we do so when the
blossom is so pure and beautiful as that of the Christmas Rose,
Helleborus niger. We can have this lovely flower in all its
virginal purity on our Christmas table, yet gathered from the
open ground. It is, of course, a hardy plant, but gardeners often
cover it with a small hand-light, to preserve the flowers from
frost, and also to prevent them from being soiled by earth thrown
up in rainy weather. In the Royal Gardens at Kew the clumps
of Christmas Roses shown in one of the plates are not covered, but
are planted among hardy ferns, which no doubt serve as a pro-
tection both against frost and flying grit. The plant will thrive
in most soils, but prefers well-drained to stagnant ground. There
is a large variety of the Christmas Rose called maximus, and
another pretty one named angustifolius. The Lenten Rose is
also a Hellebore, but a different species — orientalis. The flowers
resemble those of a Christmas Rose in form, but give a range of

(2,299) 6

74

colours which the latter does not. The Hellebores may be propa-
gated by division.

Chrysanthemums. — The Chrysanthemum is the most valuable
of all indoor plants under glass in autumn, and very nearly the
best of outdoor plants also, although the Dahlia is undeniably
more popular, and the Michaelmas Daisy also presses it hard.
It must be remembered that we not only have the varieties of

the florist's Chrysanthemum to take
into consideration in estimating the
merits of the plant, but also the
Ox-eye Daisy, Chrysanthemum
maximum, and the tall, white-
flowered plant generally grown
under the name of Pyrethrum
nliginosum, which is really a
Chrysanthemum too. The Ox-eye
Daisy is not a plant displaying
variety of colour, but it is useful
all the same, for it forms large

i. Marigolds— A, stake ; B, box with glass on top, rllimnc; onr| Kparq immense nnm-

fastened to stake to protect flower. 2. Phlox (or C1UmPS> ana DCarS

PROTECTING FLOWERS

similar plant with spikeJ-A, stakes fastened j-^j-g Qf jts orreat white

together at top ; B, cap to fit as shown by °

dotted lines C; D, plant and spike; E, young There is a Variety of it Called

side-shoots to be removed. J

King Edward VII. that is finer

than the type. Both this plant and the species uliginosum will
grow in most soils, and are easily increased by division of
the root-stock. The florist's Chrysanthemum is a superb garden
plant for late summer and early autumn. Its beautiful flowers,
in a great variety of colours, borne well above the leaves, light
up the dull days of October and November in the most delightful
manner. And they are not only beautiful on the plants, they are
also valuable for cutting. One of the great merits of the plant is
that it can be grown throughout the summer in a reserve plot,
and transplanted to the border when in full bud, so long as a

HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS 75

good soaking of water is given before the shifting, and a cool,
damp day is chosen. If the grower wants the best results he
must not read "reserve plot" as meaning any poor, out-of-the-
way, shady corner; on the contrary, he should provide rich soil,
and give water and liquid manure in dry weather. Many people
treat Chrysanthemums like the majority of border plants, that is,
grow them on the same ground year after year, and only propa-
gate them by division every two or three years. This is not
wise, for the plants either die out altogether or become very
weak. It is best to strike fresh cuttings every spring, as then
vigorous young plants are got that are sure to bloom well.
Among many beautiful varieties Rabbie Burns, pink ; Nina Blick,
bronzy red ; White Quintus and Madame Desgranges, white ; Horace
Martin, yellow ; Goacher's Crimson, red ; and Framfield Pink, pink,
may be named as particularly desirable. The Chrysanthemum as
a pot plant will be dealt with fully in the section devoted to
indoor plants.

Crown Imperial (Fritillarid). — See Bulb section.

Daffodils. — See Bulb section.

Dahlia. — See special chapter.

Delphiniums or Perennial Larkspurs. — Average height, five feet ;
flowering season, summer. Has the reader seen a plant with
stems four or five feet high, the lower part furnished with broad,
much-cut leaves, and the upper portion with bright blue flowers?
If so, he has gone a little way towards making the acquaintance
of the Delphinium or perennial Larkspur. It is a stately border
beauty, and when one sees its tall spires of blue rising against a
lichen-stained wall or grey brown larch pillar, with white Lilies
at its foot, one's admiration goes out to it whole-heartedly. It is
one of the plants which the flower gardener with an eye to beautiful
border effects fastens on unerringly. Its possibilities suggest them-
selves at once. Fortunately it is not a difficult plant to grow. It
thrives in any fertile, well-drained soil, and does not object to

76

BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

clay, provided that the latter is well broken up, and free from
stagnant water. The finest results are secured when it is planted
in deep, well-manured loam, such as will give good Roses. The
flower stems may then rise six feet high, half of which is clothed
in large single or semi-double flowers. The finer the plants the
greater the necessity for adequate staking. Without support the
stem may be blown over in stormy weather. Staking must not,
however, be done carelessly, or the spikes will not show to ad-
vantage. Care should be exercised to
insert the stakes and affix ligatures in
such a way that they are not obtru-
sive, and yet do their work. The
stems must not be arched or bunched.
The range of colour in Delphiniums
is not great, but that is of no con-
sequence, because they give us that
rarest of colours, blue, in all shades,
from palest lavender to deepest indigo.

CUTTING DOWN DELPHINIUMS /-. r ,1 i_ i •.

Some of them have white centres.

A, old stems and faded flowers cut off at dark

line; B, result, second crop of flower Other varieties are wholly white. The

spikes.

plants may be easily propagated by

dividing the roots in spring. There are many varieties, the best
of which are sold under names, in the same way as Roses,
Chrysanthemums, and other popular flowers. The following are
beautiful varieties : —

Beauty of Langport.
Belladonna.

Blue Celeste.
Persimmon.

Princess of Wales.
Spinosa.

Doronicums (Leopard's Banes). — It would be over-straining lan-
guage to describe the Leopard's Banes as an important genus in
the same sense as Phloxes or Chrysanthemums. They are not
that, but they are extremely useful all the same. They make very
early growth, and the mere sight of their cheerful clusters of green
leaves at the break of spring is inspiring and encouraging. Thick,

HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS 77

strong flower stems are thrown up, rising, in the case of the fine
variety Harpur Crewe, nearly two feet high. The colour is bright
yellow. We have few more " handy" plants than these Doronicums,
for they will grow almost anywhere, they are hardly planted before
they begin to flower, and they remain in bloom a long time. They
are propagated by division.

Evening Primroses (Oenotheras\ — The Evening Primrose is char-
acterised by great profusion of bloom, and it is a bright border
plant. The principal drawback is a tendency to straggle, but this
is not so marked in one or two of the
modern varieties. The species biennis and
its variety grandi flora (which is often grown
under the name of Lamarckiana) are both
large flowered yellow plants, but seedsmen
sell a variety under the name of taraxaci-
folia alba which is white. The most com-
pact Evening Primroses are the species
fruticosa and its variety Youngii, both
yellow flowered. The latter is perhaps the
most useful that we can have, as in addi-
tion to its closeness of growth it has the
merit of producing a great mass of bril-
liant flowers. Evening Primroses thrive in most well-cultivated
garden soil, and they do extremely well on cool, clayey land.
They may be propagated by division, but can be increased in
quantity more rapidly from seeds, which should be sown out of
doors in late spring, the same as Wallflowers.

Forget-me-nots (Myosotis). — The little blue Forget-me-not is a
cheap but precious flower, which we should be very ill-advised to
banish from our gardens because it is "common." If it comes
to that, Roses are "common," Sweet Peas are "common," all
popular flowers are "common." We must grow the Forget-me-
not for its own sake — for the thick cushions of sparkling blue

LIFTING AND DIVIDING CLUMPS

Roots A, A are not broken when a
fork is used ; B, B, outside fibrous
roots preserved.

80 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

of charm in the flowers, but because of a certain lack of freedom
in growth, which prevents it from giving those large deco-
rative effects which modern flower gardeners seek. It does not
form huge masses, surmounted by great lustrous flowers, like the
Paeony. It does not uprear lofty spires like the Delphinium. It
does not spray itself in clouds of brilliant blossom over arches
like the Rose, or form dazzling columns like the Sweet Pea. It
is a neat, somewhat close grower, with sword-shaped leaves and
arching flower stems closely studded with funnel-shaped flowers.
But it is by no means an inconspicuous plant. The flower spikes
are thrown well above the foliage, and in the most vigorous
varieties they rise to a height of thirty inches or more. In suit-
able soil half-a-dozen corms set a few inches apart will form a
fine clump.

The Gladiolus is what is called a florist's flower — that is, it
has been specialised under distinctive varietal names, provided
with a standard of excellence, and exhibited in special classes at
shows. The old florists made quite a pet of it, and, naturally,
they wrangled over it. They disputed over the proper pronun-
ciation of the name. One was for Gladiolus; a second declared
that this was wrong and that it should be called Gladiolus ; a
third heaped scorn on both parties and insisted that Gladiolus
was correct. " Custom," said a philosopher, " is the legislator of
languages," and custom decrees that our flower shall be called the
Gladiolus.

The strait-laced florist is often, and justly, held up to ridicule
for his narrow-mindedness, but we must give him credit for one
thing at least — he does improve flowers. He has worked wonders
with the Gladiolus. He is now more absorbed in the Rose, the
Carnation, the Dahlia, and the Sweet Pea. But it matters nothing
at all that Gladioli are not grown for exhibition so long as they
increase in favour for flower garden decoration, and that they are
certainly doing. The florist has served his purpose in showing us

HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS 81

what to strive for, the hybridist has given us an increased number
of beautiful varieties, and — not least in importance — prices have
come down, thus bringing the flower within the means of many
who could not afford to grow it in former days, and permitting
those who could only have a few to plant more largely. It is still
too dear to become everybody's flower, and it is difficult to see
how it can ever become as cheap as the Sweet Pea or the Daffodil,
because raising plants from seed is a slow process, and although the
plants are easily increased by offsets, they do not multiply rapidly.
A few of the old species are cheap enough, notably the scarlet one
called brenchleyensis, which only costs about sixpence a dozen.
But the modern cross-bred sorts cannot be bought at anything like
that price, the corms costing from sixpence to half-a-crown each.

A person who is particularly partial to Gladioli may form a
special bed of them, and if it should only contain a dozen plants
it will afford him great interest and pleasure, provided that the
plants are well grown and the varieties are good. The character
of the soil is an important point. It must not be stiff, cold, and
damp with the unwholesome dampness of stagnancy. It must be
very friable and warm, yet moist — warmly moist. How can we make
the soil right ? If it is naturally friable, we need only dig it deeply,
and work a dressing of manure nine or ten inches below the surface.
If it is stiff clay we must break it up eighteen inches deep, and dig
in a liberal dressing of road grit, wood ashes, and mortar rubbish.
We may also work in superphosphate of lime or bone dust at the
rate of four ounces per square yard. This treatment will quite
alter the character of the soil, making it warmer and more fertile.
Gladioli lovers need never be afraid of growing the plants on clay,
provided that they are prepared to take the little trouble involved
in adopting the suggestion here thrown out, for the plants will
thrive admirably on it.

Spring is a good time to buy the corms, and they can be purchased
from almost any florist, seedsman, or bulb merchant. Brenchleyensis,

82 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

Colvillei, and some other species can be bought with Hyacinths and
Tulips in autumn, and planted then. The first named is a really
valuable flower garden plant, on account of its vigorous growth,
hardiness, cheapness, and brilliant colour. Colvillei and the white
variety are generally grown in pots, particularly the latter, which is a
highly popular greenhouse plant. The corms of the fine cross-bred
Gladioli are not generally harvested early enough in autumn to be
sold with the Dutch bulbs, and in any case it. would not be wise to
subject such relatively expensive things to the rigours attending a
winter sojourn in the open ground, because they keep perfectly sound
and dormant in a dry, frost-proof store. Tulips and other bulbs will
not remain dormant throughout the winter : they will begin to grow
in autumn, and hence the necessity for early planting. The Gladioli
corms may be covered with two inches of soil. When growth decays
in the autumn it may be cut away, and the corms lifted ; it will
probably be found that a new corm has formed on the top of the
old one, which is decaying. If this is the case, the old corm may
be thrown away and the new one stored until spring. Should
any small offsets have formed, they may be collected, stored, and
planted in a nursery plot in the spring, to there increase in size,
and eventually become of flowering size.

The beginner is often perplexed when, in turning to price lists, he
finds various sections of a particular flower, the differences between
which he does not know. In the case of Gladioli, for example, he
may find them offered under the names of Gandavensis, Childsii,
Saundersii, purpureo-auratus, and so on. It is really hardly worth
his while to charge his mind with the distinctions, for even specialists
are hard put to it to define them nowadays, so much have the sections
been intercrossed. The person who buys a selection of good Ganda-
vensis varieties will certainly be on the safe side, for they have the
special merits that he wants — vigorous growth, and rich, varied
colours. He will admire them on the plants, and he will admire them
when, having given a tardy, reluctant consent to a young spike being

HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS 83

cut and placed in water, he sees the buds unfolding in succession day
by day from the base to the tip. Its lasting beauty in a vase of
water is one of the greatest of the charms of the Gladiolus. It is not
uncommon for one to be a really beautiful object for three weeks.
The following are good varieties of Gladioli : —

Agnus, salmon pink, yellow eye.
Commandant Marchand, ruby red.
Duchess of York, white and lilac.
Enchantresse, lilac rose.
Formosa, rose.
Grand Rouge, crimson.

Hadrian, pink, white centre.

L'Incendie, cherry red.

Marie Thtrhe, creamy white.

Mary Anderson, mauve.

Pascal, rose, white centre.

William Kelivay, crimson, white spots.

Hollyhocks. — The Hollyhock, Althaea rosea of botanists, must be
classed with the great flowers of the past. About half-way through
the nineteenth century it rose on a wave of popularity. It was
one of the elect, one of the handful of special things that we
dignify as " florist's flowers " — that phrase which has so little
meaning to the outsider, and is so full of significance to the pro-
fessional horticulturist. The Hollyhock was grown in nearly every
garden ; it was a recognised exhibition flower. Then, suddenly,
came a terrible debacle. It was brought about by a fungus, called
Puccinia malvacearum^ which first attacked wild Mallows, and
then spread to the stately garden Mallow — the Hollyhock. There
were no half measures in the operations of the fungus. It came,
it saw, it conquered. It did its maleficent work with startling
rapidity. It spread all over the country like a swift and deadly
pestilence. A few weeks, and the Hollyhock was practically
"wiped out." Its lovers were in despair. A few cheerful spirits
prophesied a swift resurrection. In the somewhat grandiose words
of one writer of former days : " The eclipse is but a paltry shadow
that for a season blots the sun from the heavens. We may
reasonably hope to see the Hollyhock once more in its proper
splendour, the noblest occupant of the country garden." Alas for
the prophet! After more than a quarter of a century the shadow
still remains. Even if the fungus had lost its violence, or some

84

BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

simple and inexpensive remedy had been found for it, the old
Hollyhock would probably never have regained its place. A fallen
flower rarely rises again — note the Auricula, the laced Pink, the
Verbena. A limited number of people remain faithful to it, but their
numbers gradually dwindle. Other flowers rise to take its place.

If, however, the Hollyhock is not the great favourite that it was
once upon a time, before the Puccinia came down upon it, it is still
grown with moderate success in many gardens. People do not pay
high prices for special varieties as they used to do ; they dare not

take the risk of it. But they still like
Hollyhocks well enough to try their luck
with them from seed, the cost of which
is small, and entails no serious loss if
the plants die away. There is a general
opinion, indeed (an opinion not alto-
gether groundless) that seedling plants
are less severely attacked than special
varieties struck from cuttings. Holly-
hocks can be raised from seed just as
easily as Canterbury Bells, and may be
treated in the same way, being sown out
of doors in late spring, transplanted, and

flowered the following year. It is possible to bloom them the
first year, but this necessitates sowing the seed under glass in
February and pushing them on in pots. There was, perhaps, too
much ''pushing on" of Hollyhocks in years gone by. When new
varieties were valuable they were propagated rapidly in heat by
means of grafting, and it is possible that the constitution of the
plant was thereby impaired. Be that as it may, we cannot err by
giving Hollyhocks natural treatment now.

The finest plants are secured by planting in deep, heavily-
manured soil, but the prudent grower may well sacrifice some
degree of luxuriance in order to get harder, healthier growth ; and to

PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGS

A, cuttings in a pot ; B, pots of cuttings
in a frame.

HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS 85

this end he may decide to manure moderately. He will, however,
deepen his soil thoroughly, otherwise he may find himself at the
other extreme, and have such poor, weak, puny plants that handsome
flower spikes are impossible. The Hollyhock does not care for a
hot, dry, shallow soil. It loves a deep, cool, moist medium. Give it
a sunny position, however, by all means. Heavy shade from over-
growing trees is bad. If its requirements are met it will probably
push up flower stems six to eight feet high, packed with single,
semi-double, or double flowers, in a great variety of colours.

The appearance of the fungus is shown in the presence of small
reddish, raised spots on the leaves, which are followed by the
shrivelling and falling of the foliage, and the death of the plant.
The spread may be checked by promptly picking off the affected
leaves, and immediately spraying the plants with " Bordeaux
mixture," which may be prepared as follows: —

RECIPE FOR BORDEAUX MIXTURE.

(1) Dissolve one pound of bluestone (sulphate of copper) in a little water in a wooden or
earthenware vessel.

(2) Slack one pound of freshly burnt quicklime in another vessel.

(3) Stir the lime-cream and pour it, together with the bluestone solution, into a vessel
containing ten gallons of water.

(4) Stir the whole mixture, and hold a steel knife blade in it for a few moments. If the
steel should discolour, add more lime-cream. If it remain bright, the mixture is safe.

The mixture should be quite free from lumps. It is best applied through a spraying
syringe, that spreads it in a fine, dew-like state, in which condition it adheres. When
applied through the rose of an ordinary syringe the liquid falls in a comparatively heavy
shower, and runs off quickly. The application may be repeated if necessary.

/rises.— One of the most richly painted of our garden flowers,
the Iris also presents us with great diversity of height, habit, and
cultural requirements. It is an indication of the change in popular
taste in respect of flowers that while nowadays the Iris has special
books devoted to it, the index of the original edition of a famous
standard work does not include it, although we find under " I " Itea
virginica and other insignificant things. The charm of the Iris
is irresistible. It appeals by grace and quaintness of form, hand-

86 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

some foliage (evergreen in some classes), beautiful colour markings,
perfume — by everything that makes a plant valued by lovers of
flowers. Attention is arrested in the first place by the beautiful
blooms of the bolder forms ; it is retained, and developed into a
lasting affection, by the dainty loveliness of the smaller kinds.

We cannot think of hardy flower gardening without thinking
of Irises. They stand forth as among the most valuable of
border flowers. We can specialise them if we like, and they are
at least as well worthy of it as Dahlias and Carnations. If we do
we shall find them as full of interest as they are of beauty. Some
of the exquisite gems of the bulbous and cushion sections will
require a little "mothering" at times, others are as hardy as
Savoys. The "Flag" class will grow almost anywhere. If not
so fine in bloom on a dry, hot, town bank, amid impure air, as
in the deep, cool clay of a country garden, they at least appear
quite as happy. The Japanese section, which is known as Kaemp-
feri and laevigata (the latter is the name now used by botanists,
although tradesmen still cling to the former), has opposite tastes.
It never does itself real justice except in moist, cool places. It
loves the humid surroundings of a pond side. When quite at
home by water it makes huge clumps, and throws up stems a
yard high, surmounted by flowers as large as breakfast plates,
gloriously painted with rich and beautiful colours. We shall find
exquisite beauty among the bulbous Irises, most of which are
lowly growers ; indeed, if we had no other class but this the genus
would still be valuable. Several are winter bloomers, and that in
itself is a powerful recommendation. To have flowers so lovely as
those with the Aconites and Snowdrops is something for which to
be grateful. Yes, an Iris collection, including the best representa-
tives of the most valuable classes, would be indeed a feast of
interest and pleasure.

We may, however, get immense gratification from Irises without
specialising, merely cultivating them as border flowers. The Flag

HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS 87

section, or German Irises, will be found particularly valuable for
this purpose, on account of their vigorous growth and large, brilliant
flowers. They are what are termed rhizomatous plants — that is,
the rootstock consists of a mass of hard, elongated, tuber-like
swellings called rhizomes, which are really creeping stems, thickened
and hardened, and with the power of emitting buds and roots.
The sword-shaped leaves spring directly from the rhizomes. When
the plants have been established in the same place for several
years the rhizomes increase until they form a thick mass, part
of which protrudes through the soil. Naturally the earth has
become very much impoverished, but the clumps will grow cheer-
fully, and throw up flowers every year, without the least attention.
Perhaps this is a drawback in one sense, because it leads people
to suppose that the plant requires no cultivation. If it does not
actually need it, it is greatly benefited by it, as any one will find
who divides his clumps occasionally, and replants in deep, rich
soil. The Flag Irises may be divided or planted at any time in
the autumn, winter, or spring. Among many beautiful varieties
the noble lavender-coloured one called pallida dalmatica stands
supreme. Its huge flowers are a mass of glistening, shimmering
beauty. Gracchus, U Innocence, and Madame Chereau are three
other beautiful varieties belonging to this section.

The cheapest, and not the least beautiful, of the Irises are the
two sections called respectively English and Spanish. The latter
is just about as cheap as a common Crocus, and far more beautiful
and valuable. When we can buy a plant like the Spanish Iris for
about twopence a dozen, it is not a case for hesitation, but for
prompt decision to plant, and to plant largely. We can grow
it in pots, too, if we like, the same as Hyacinths and Tulips.
Spanish Irises are quite as easily grown as those popular flowers,
and impart considerable diversity to a greenhouse or conservatory.
Both the English and Spanish Irises are bulbs, and may be
bought from the bulb merchant in October, like Daffodils. They

88 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

thrive in almost any fertile soil if planted about two inches deep.
It is the most economical to buy them in mixture, and, except
when a complete collection of Irises is being formed, it hardly
seems worth while to grow them under names ; but they can be
purchased distinct if desired.

Then there are the Cushion Irises. These are a distinct and
remarkable class. The species called Gatesii is one of the most
perfectly beautiful things in the whole world of flowers. The
ground colouring is cream, but it is spangled over with silver,
and covered with a silvery venation. A yellow fringe or " beard "
completes one of Nature's most exquisite and dainty colour
schemes. It would be well if we could say of it, as of other
Irises, that it is very cheap, but it is still too scarce to be low-priced.
An equally remarkable "cushion" is the Mourning Iris, Susiana.
This has a colouring all its own. Closely surveyed, the ground
is seen to be of a greyish shade, but it is so heavily netted with
dark chestnut brown that the general effect is sombre. It is a
singular, almost weird, and altogether extraordinary-looking flower,
yet it is in no way forbidding; on the contrary, it possesses a
real charm, that does not quickly fade. After flowering, it is bene-
fited by being protected with glass, which will focus the sun on
it, and give it a thorough roasting, while throwing off heavy rain
in wet weather. Experts recommend planting late in autumn, in
order to discourage immediate growth, which might be injured
by hard frost. Should mild weather cause growths to start after
planting, some material should be kept at hand for throwing over
them in frosty weather.

The Japanese Irises have flat flowers, and consequently differ
considerably from Flags, which have upright segments (" standards ")
and drooping ones ("falls"). If somewhat less attractive in shape,
they are equally rich in colour ; in fact, the Japanese are among the
most boldly painted of all Irises. It is not much use attempting to
grow them in dry soil ; they must have abundance of moisture if

2

"u

pq

HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS 89

they are to do well. Named varieties are procurable at a price, but
this is really a class in which mixtures are likely to answer every
purpose, and they are cheaper.

The small bulbous Irises are nearly all winter and spring
bloomers. They are mostly hardy, but in view of the fact that
the flowers are sometimes injured by frost, it is common to grow
them in pots in unheated frames. The lovely violet and yellow,
scented species reticulata is a delightful little winter gem, and happily
it is quite cheap. Bakeriana, blue and white, agreeably perfumed, is
charming in the extreme, but is more expensive. Alata, Histrio,
and Rosenbachiana are three other early, dwarf, bulbous Irises which
the Iris lover will probably add to his collection.

Kniphofias (Tritomas, Torch Lilies, Red-hot Pokers). — Neither
the botanist nor the garden-lover was apparently able to satisfy
himself at the first attempt in naming this splendid plant of late
summer, and consequently it is burdened with a formidable list of
cognomens. But it is not easily overwhelmed. Alike in habit of
growth and colour it is strong, resolute, and bold. Like some human
beings, it may be disliked, but it cannot be ignored. It has per-
sonality and individuality. It not only compels you to stop and
look at it, but to declare your sentiments towards it outright, and at
once. The Kniphofia stands no nonsense. You have got to take it
as it is, or leave it alone. Happily, there is not much difficulty
in deciding which side of the fence to come down upon. Your vote
is an "aye," and you march out of the division lobby with a proud
sense of duty nobly done when you have ranged yourself among the
band of " stalwarts " who support the gay Kniphofia. From the
time when it first begins to grow in spring until it reaches the
flush of bloom in September the plant is always handsome and
distinctive. Its long, narrow foliage grows in a compact clump
almost like an Aloe, hence the name aloides applied to one of the
principal species — which, by the way, also enjoys two names, being
sometimes called uvaria. The flower heads are upborne on long,

(2.299) 7

90 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

stout stems. They are well termed Torch Lilies, for they are often
a foot long, and of a brilliant orange, salmon, or fiery red colour. A
strong plant will throw up several, and when the plant is colonised,
there may be scores (even hundreds, if it is planted in quantity) of
the glowing flambeaux lighting up the garden. Such a picture
as they then form is one not easily forgotten. For the matter of
that, a single vigorous plant growing in a small bed in solitary
state lingers in the memory. It may have as a neighbour a clump
of Pampas Grass, the silvery plumes of which will attain to maturity
about the same time as the glowing heads of the Torch Lily.

George Borrow described Spain picturesquely as the "Gonfa-
loniera of Rome." The Kniphofia might be called the Gonfaloniera
of the flower garden. It must have a place in the herbaceous
border, as well as on the lawn, and there it will form glowing
rallying points. It must not be crowded up against a mass of
Sunflowers, or half hidden in a tangle of Chrysanthemums, where
its foliage will be obscured, and its vivid colours more than half
killed. It must stand clear out, alert, striking, distinctive. It
may be associated with other plants, such as Lilies and Delphiniums,
dusky Michaelmas Daisies and stately Hollyhocks, but there must
be no overgrowing, no muddle. It must be a case of careful
grouping.

The Torch Lily is an easy plant to grow, provided that the
soil is not dry. It loves moisture. Given a variety of soils (with
which, however, few flower gardeners are favoured) a strong loam
or clay such as would be likely to suit Roses should be chosen. If it
is a case of Hobson's choice, and the soil is thin and light, steps
should be taken to improve it by deep digging and liberal manuring ;
and this work must be done at any favourable opportunity in winter.
The plants may be bought and planted in spring.

Neat flower gardeners dress their borders in autumn, cutting
down old stems and removing decayed leaves ; but they will be well
advised to abstain from removing the old leaves of the Torch Lilies.

HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS 91

It is best to retain them as a protection to the crowns, and they will
serve this purpose without offending the eye if they are drawn together
into a cone and tied in autumn, thus enclosing the crown.

Flower lovers have become more and more keenly alive to the
merits of the Torch Lilies these latter years, and consequently the
number of varieties has increased rapidly. The different forms of
the old species aloides alone would make a strong company. Some
of them are varieties, others are hybrids, which have been secured by
crossing aloides with other species. Lachesis, Obe'lisque, nobilis,
Pfitzeri, Saundersii, and Star of Baden-Baden are beautiful sorts,
of different colours, from yellow to red. They are vigorous growers,
ranging up to four feet high. Of other species may be named corallina
and its splendid variety superba, which grows about two feet high,
and has scarlet flowers ; Macowanii, also about two feet high, and
with coral-coloured flowers ; and Rooperi, four feet high, red. The
last named is particularly useful, on account of its long period of
bloom.

Liliums. — These, being bulbous plants, are described in the bulb
section. As there seen, we must certainly introduce some of them in
the herbaceous borders.

Lupins. — The Lupine (botanically Lupinus) was an old flower-
garden favourite long before herbaceous plants had attained to the
popularity which they now enjoy. Cottagers grew it, as they grew
Pinks, and Hollyhocks, and Rockets. They bought the annual forms,
with their great seeds as large as Beans, and grew them in borders
with Larkspur, and Mignonette, and Convolvulus. Perhaps the
Lupins have had rather a hard fight of it to hold their own with the
great rush of splendid perennial plants that have now come, but
there are one or two which have such outstanding merits that they
retain favour. Among these is the Tree Lupin, arboreus, which
grows about five feet high ; and still more popular is the white
variety of it called Snow Queen. This is a strong, upstanding
plant, of great worth in the border. Another Lupin that enjoys

92 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

great favour is polyphyllus (many leaved) which grows about three
feet high, and has blue flowers. It is a very handsome plant, and an
accommodating one to boot, thriving in most soils, provided that they
are well manured. There are several varieties of it, including a white
(albus), a purple (Purple King), and a yellow (Somerset).

Although the great majority of the Lupins are best propagated
by seed, division may have to be resorted to in the case of the
special perennial kinds, and if so it should be done in spring.

Michaelmas Daisies. — The flower gardener whose nature is im-
pressionable, and whose spirits fluctuate with the seasons and the
weather, is apt to feel a shade of depression attack him when
the summer flowers begin to fade. He does not love, as the
Norsemen of whom Rudyard Kipling sings in Puck of Poofcs
Hill do—

" The dear, dark days of winter-time."

When his borders are a mere sombre stretch of bare earth they
contrast painfully with the beauty of the summer. The passing
of the earlier flowers is a reminder, and a disagreeable one, that
the period of bareness has to come. But it can be shortened (and
this is a cheering thought for the impressionist) by providing
plants of which the flowering period is naturally late. They are
not a numerous band, but they are a very powerful one all the
same, because they include Dahlias, Chrysanthemums, and Michael-
mas Daisies. Each of these noble plants is a host in itself. It
has vigour of growth, free blooming, and bright, varied colours.
The Michaelmas Daisy is perhaps the most valuable of the three.
It has been dealt with fully under Aster.

Ox-eye and Pyrenean Daisies. — These useful plants are Chrys-
anthemums. The Ox-eye Daisy is C. Leucanthemnm, and the
Pyrenean Daisy (also referred to under Chrysanthemum) is C.
maximum. The Ox-eye Daisy grows about two feet high, and
has white flowers ; the Pyrenean Daisy is a little taller, and is
also white. These great perennial Daisies have not sufficient

HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS 93

variety of colour to rank with the most valuable of border plants,
but they are very useful. They will grow freely in any deep,
fertile ground, and are easily propagated by division. In most
heavy, well-manured soils they will grow into huge clumps, and
will remain a long time in beauty.

Paeonies. — By common consent the Paeony is accepted as one
of the very finest of our hardy plants. During recent years the
number of varieties has grown almost as rapidly as those of
Dahlias, Chrysanthemums, and Sweet
Peas. They now form a goodly band,
rich in vigour, in size of bloom, in
brilliancy and diversity of colour, and
in perfume. Old impressions of the
Paeony were of a somewhat gaudy
flower, if anything over-bold. It was
not regarded as a refined flower, like
an Auricula or a Carnation. Probably
some of the old-time florists would
turn in their graves at the thought of
Paeonies being grown to the exclusion

DISBUDDING TO OBTAIN LARGE BLOOMS
OR SPIKES

of Bizarre Tulips and laced Pinks, but ExamPles: Pae^ Delphiniums and_c«-

nations. — A, crown buds to be retained ;

B, B, side buds and shoots to be removed
at dark lines.

they certainly are. Perhaps the old-
timer would forgive us, however, for
our apparent backsliding if he could revisit the scenes of his
triumphs with the flowers that are now dying, and see the
wonderful improvements that have been made with others. When
he saw Paeonies of the softest rose, the most delicate pink, the
silkiest crimson, the purest white, Paeonies single and Paeonies
double, Paeonies with the powerful perfume of a Damask Rose,
Paeonies of the finest form and most exquisite refinement — in
short, Paeonies full of beauty, refinement, and charm — his heart
would soften, and he would take the flower to his bosom, as a
treasure of great price.

94 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

Any change which causes so exquisite a flower as the show
Auricula to decline seems, on the face of it, to be for the worse ;
but we have to take a broad view of the question of public taste
as it affects flowers. Laced Pinks, green-edged Auriculas, and
Bizarre Tulips have declined, not because floral taste has grown
coarser, and is unable to appreciate them, but because ideas of
flower gardening have grown better. The flowers named have
lost their place because they do not serve the purpose of modern
flower gardening. The same florist who specialised Auriculas
(which he probably did in a frame ground in a sacred corner of
the garden) filled his beds and borders with Zonal Geraniums.
He was not a flower gardener in the modern sense at all. He
did not study flower gardening as it is studied nowadays, and
consequently he did not understand it. He knew a great deal
about the individual wants of one particular flower, and, pan
passu, he thought that he knew everything there was to know
about all plants, and surveyed the ignorant outer world with a
benign tolerance.

Paeonies serve the purpose of modern flower gardeners — that
is, of getting beautiful and continuous colour effects — admirably.
The herbaceous species begin their good work from the very first,
because the shoots which push through the ground in spring
come with rich tints of chrome, and red, and brown. At a little
distance a bed of Paeonies reminds the observer of a bed of hard-
pruned Tea Roses when its shoots begin to open out under the
genial influence of a kindly spring sun. There is the same soft,
tender glow of colour a few inches above the earth, gradually
spreading and deepening as the days pass. The illusion is at
once so perfect and so beautiful that the flower-lover almost wants
it to linger, even at the cost of losing the flowers.

When the Paeonies have attained to their full dimensions (and
in rich, fertile soil well-established plants may spread five or six
feet) the Tea Rose resemblance will, of course, have completely

95

disappeared, but in its place there will be the matured indi-
viduality of the plants themselves, with their strong stems, broad
leaves, and gigantic blossoms. It is a great point in favour of
the plants that the flowers are carried high above the leaves on
long, vigorous stalks. Every bloom is boldly displayed. In this
respect the Paeony scores over its late companion of the flower
garden, the Cactus Dahlia, which shyly hides its flowers among
the leaves unless well pruned. The Paeony will want neither
staking nor pruning to cause it to play its part effectively. It is
not a coy, clinging plant. It is sturdy and self-supporting, and
it holds its head up with a sort of regal pride. One might call
it a "state" plant — a figure of courts and levees, where proud
and noble figures are seen.

The modern garden Paeony is divided into two great classes —
the Herbaceous and the Tree. The difference is mainly in habit,
and does not extend to character of bloom, as it does in Roses.
Herbaceous and Tree Paeonies might be mixed in a group without
the ordinary observer being able to distinguish them, whereas he
could separate Tea and hybrid Perpetual Roses with ease. The
Herbaceous Paeony loses its leaves and stems in the autumn, dying
quite away to the root, like a Michaelmas Daisy, and growing
again from buds on the underground rootstock in the following
spring. The Tree Paeony does not do this. Its stems are harder
and more woody, and they do not decay every year. It is true
that it generally loses its leaves, so that it cannot be described as
an evergreen. It might be designated as a deciduous (that is,
leaf-losing) shrub, like a flowering Currant or a Lilac. Both
classes have very large and beautiful flowers.

The first requirement of Paeonies is a deep, rich soil, and the
second abundance of room. They rarely show their true character
in poor, thin, dry ground. It is true that they will grow and flower,
but they will not spread into great, broad clumps, and throw up
large flowers by the dozen. The grower should aim at excellence,

96 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

and it rests entirely with himself as to whether he gets it or not.
He should make stations for his clumps of Paeonies wide enough
to admit three or four plants standing two feet apart. These stations
should be dug two feet deep, and a thick coating of manure worked
in a foot below the surface. Extra food can be given in the form
of soakings of liquid manure in the summer, and annual mulches
of manure on the surface. This is better tljan regular lifting and
replanting, for which Paeonies do not care. They like to push
long fleshy roots deep down into moist substrata, and keep
them there.

The plants can be propagated by division, but for the reason
just given this should not be done frequently. If more plants are
wanted, it is better to buy fresh ones than to risk injury to an
imperfectly established clump by taking it up and dividing it.
Propagation can be effected by seeds, but this method cannot be
relied upon for the increase of particular varieties which it is
important to keep true. Trade growers often propagate Paeonies
by grafting them on to stocks of common kinds, but this work
is hardly within the scope of amateur flower gardeners. Such
division or fresh planting as may be required should be done any
time between October and March inclusive.

It would be very pleasant if we could add to all that has been
here said with respect to the claims of Paeonies on the attention
of flower lovers that they are cheap plants, but that can hardly
be done, at all events as far as concerns modern sorts. These
are not cheap. In connection with this, as with all other popular
flowers, novelties are expensive. But one can buy very good
Paeonies without depleting one's purse severely. The following
varieties are good, and not costly : —

BEAUTIFUL SINGLE HERBACEOUS PAEONIES.

Amiable, cherry.

Bridesmaid, white.

Duchess of Portland, pink and white.

Rosy Dawn, blush.
Empire, purple.
Hecate, purplish rose.

MONKSHOOD (Aconitum Napellus)
By E. Fortescue Brickdale

HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS 97

BEAUTIFUL DOUBLE HERBACEOUS PAEONIES.

Francois Ortigat^ crimson.
Mikado, rose.

Beauty, rose.
Captain^ white.

Novelty, cream.
Prince Prosper, purple.

BEAUTIFUL TREE PAEONIES.

General Baden Powell, red.
James Kelway, carmine.

Princess May, cream.
Sir Henry Irving, pink.

Lady Sarah Wilson, blush.
Snowflake, white.

Pansies. — Considering that it is a lowly plant, incapable of
yielding those bold masses of colour which the modern flower
gardener loves so much, and that it is scarcely compact enough
in growth, or sufficiently free in bloom, to form good carpets and
edgings (purposes for which its cousin the Viola is so admirably
adapted), the Pansy holds its own remarkably well. If it is not
quite in the front rank of hardy plants, it remains a decided
favourite, especially in Scotland, whose sturdy florists raise beautiful
new varieties every year, and exhibit them in such exquisite form
that every beholder is filled with admiration. Perhaps the Pansy
would be most accurately described as a florist's flower which is
specialised by a certain number of trade growers and expert
amateurs, like the Rose, the Chrysanthemum, the Carnation, the
Sweet Pea, and the Dahlia. In the case of all such flowers there
is a steady demand for new varieties every year — a demand which
varies in extent with the different flowers, but which can be relied
upon to make a trade in novelties lucrative. The Pansy has not
so large a constituency as the flowers named, but it nevertheless
enjoys a very fair one.

Southern growers who, on being worsted by the Scottish florists
in a bout of Pansy-growing, declare that there is something in
the humid climate of Scotland which particularly suits the plant,
are probably right ; but they go too far when they assert, as they
sometimes do, that it cannot be grown successfully in the south.
Provided that care is taken to give it a rich, cool bed, it will thrive
and give good flowers. It ought not to be expected to succeed

98

BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

in a shallow bed of hot sand, or in a few inches of poor, dry earth
overlying chalk. In such soils special provision has to be made
for it. But it will succeed with very little coaxing in moist, clay
soils, even in the extreme south of England. In all cases where
there appears to be reasonable ground for doubting success under
the natural conditions that prevail, the Pansy lover will be wise
to add a liberal dressing of cow manure to the soil, at the same
time deepening it as much as it will allow. Further, he should
spread a coating of cow manure over the bed when the hot weather
comes on. If this is considered unsightly, it can be covered with

cocoa-nut fibre refuse. Good soakings
of soft water, and of liquid manure,
will help matters still more.

The work of the cultivator is easier
if he plants fairly early — say by the
end of March. At that period the
nights, if not the days, are always
cool ; moreover, heavy showers may

BEDS FOR SEEDLINGS i j A i«i_ i • r 11 J

be expected. A liberal rainfall and

Raised beds for young plants of very rare or

delicate kinds, where the soil is coid and COol nights between them are a great

clayey.

help in getting Pansies well estab-
lished. If planting is not done until May or June (and this is
often the case), far more attention is needed to get the plants
into free growth. They will probably need liberal watering, and
shading during the hot sunshine of bright days.

Pansies are very easy to propagate. To begin with, there
is the medium of seeds. Although the plants are perennials, it
is quite easy to get them to bloom the same year that they are
sown, provided that the seed is put in under glass by mid-March.
But it is necessary to remember that seed of the named florist's
varieties cannot be relied upon to produce flowers of the same
colours as the parents. Seedsmen of repute sell very good strains
of Pansy seed, and it may be sown half an inch deep in a pot

HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS 99

or box towards the end of winter. A position on a greenhouse
shelf, or in a frame, will be suitable. When the seedlings begin
to crowd each other they may be pricked off three inches apart
in larger boxes, and when they touch again planted out of doors.
They should be planted in a cool, moist spot to expedite their
growth, then they are certain to become strong enough to flower
at midsummer or soon after. The best of the seedlings, and any
varieties which have been bought as plants under special names,
may be propagated by cuttings in late summer or early autumn.
It is not wise to strike them early, and so start them . growing
before winter, because nothing is gained by it, and they take
up more room, need more care, and are more liable to injury
from frost, than cuttings put in so late (say October) that they
have only time to callus over and make a root or two before the
winter. At the time indicated there are generally young, grow-
ing shoots on the plants, which will serve as cuttings. If the
flowering is so^ profuse and late that there are no growing
shoots, the bloom should be suppressed in September, and a
top-dressing of fresh soil given to encourage growth. Bits
about three inches long do quite well, and they may be put in
just clear of each other in very sandy soil in a frame, or in a
box covered with squares of glass. They are not likely to suffer
in the winter, but a covering may be put over the glass in very
severe weather. They ought to be examined now and then during
the winter in order to see that aphis is not establishing itself on
them. If any insects are seen they should be brushed off, and
destroyed.

What are termed " tufted Pansies " by some writers and florists
are Violas, and are dealt with under that name. The following
are a few beautiful florist's Pansies : —

A. M. Burnie, yellow,
crimson, and purple.

Constance Abercromby, car-
mine, yellow, and black.

Constance Steel, rose and
white.

Duchess of Montrose, yel-
low and black.

Henry Stirling, yellow,
crimson, and black.

Mrs. R. Fife, crimson
and white.

100

BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

Mrs. W. Sinclair, blue

and yellow.
Madge Montgomery, claret

and cream.

Nellie Curson, yellow,
mauve, and brown.

Niel Mackay, black and
yellow.

Robert M'Caughie, yellow,
rose, and violet.

Wm. M'Kenzie, violet and
yellow.

Phloxes. — Average height of perennial border species under good
cultivation, three feet; flowering season, late spring and summer.
Average height of annual section, one foot ; flowering season,
summer.

The Phloxes are a most beautiful and valuable class of garden
flowers. The perennial species are hardy, the annuals not quite

hardy. The former class might
be subdivided into border and
rock Phloxes. The former grow
to medium height, the latter
are quite dwarf. The perennial
border Phloxes bear their flowers
in bunches at the summit of
slender stems clothed with nar-
row, lance-shaped leaves. They
are of upright, compact habit, yet
not stiff. In some of the finest
modern varieties the flower heads
are of great size — almost as big as
Hydrangeas, in fact. The colours
are very beautiful. Though bright, they are not gaudy, but, on
the contrary, are soft and refined. There are no more beautiful
border flowers than the hardy herbaceous Phloxes, and no border
can be considered complete without them. They appear in more
than one of our plates. In association with Tobacco plants
(Nicotiana affinis), with Japanese Anemones and Sweet Peas (the
latter, by the way, affords a particularly fine example of the
importance of studying the grouping of flowers), or with Asters
and Sweet Peas, they are extremely useful and beautiful. These
Phloxes are propagated by division and by root cuttings,

STAKING PLANTS

A, how to stake single plants ; B, wrong way to stake
plants with several stems ; C, right way to stake
such plants.

HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS

preferably when growth starts in spring. They thrive best in
light, well-drained, loamy soil. They do not like stiff, cold,
undrained land. The flower gardener who has very heavy land
should endeavour to dig a few spadefuls of decayed turf into the
place where he intends to plant the Phloxes.

The annual Phloxes, varieties of Drummondii, are easily raised
from seeds sown in an unheated frame early in April, or in
the open ground at the end of that month. In either case the
seeds should be sown thinly, and any thick patches of plants
thinned. When put out they should be planted about a foot
apart, and dusted with dry lime in order to baffle slugs, which
are very fond of them. Many people credit these beautiful annuals
with the responsibility for the decline of the Verbena. The flowers
are supposed to resemble each other, and such superiority as there
is between them to belong to the Phlox. There is certainly some
sort of resemblance between Verbenas and Phloxes. Both have
small, round flowers, with, in the case of most varieties, a clearly
defined eye ; but there is really no good reason for instituting a
direct comparison between the two plants, and setting them in
opposition to each other. The Verbena has not declined as a
flower garden plant to any great extent, but only as a florist's
flower under pot cultivation. Both it and the annual Phlox
should be grown, and both are best raised from seed.

Seedsmen offer several strains of annual Phlox, but the grandi-
flora (large-flowered) is the best. It can be had in assortments
of six or more separate colours, or in mixture. There is a strain
about six inches shorter than the grandiflora called nana com-
pacta. In this also we get a nice variety of colours, but the
flowers are smaller.

Named varieties of annual Phlox are not offered, but there
are plenty of the perennials. These might be divided into two
separate sections, the first of which flowers in early summer, and
the second in late summer and early autumn. They have originated

102 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

from diffeVfent'' species, and are really distinct types. It is important
to know this, and to make selections of each, because then a pro-
longed period of bloom can be insured. In the following list the
letter " E" indicates early, and the letter " L" late varieties.

Atala (L), rose, white eye.
Attraction (E), white, red eye.
Coquelicot (L), orange.
Crtpuscule (L), mauve, red eye.
Esclarmonde (L), lilac, white eye.
James Hunter (E), pink.

Ledru Rollin (L), violet, lilac eye.

Le Mahdi (L), violet.

Magnificence (E), rose, crimson eye.

Mrs. Forbes (E), white.

Mrs. E. H. Jenkins (L), white.

Zouave (L), magenta, crimson eye.

Poppies. — Every country visitor knows one member of the Poppy
family, and that is the scarlet kind of the cornfields. Every flower-
lover knows another member, and that is the beautiful Shirley Poppy.
Many are familiar with the huge scarlet Eastern Poppy, which
botanists call Papaver orientate. Thus we get by stages to a posi-
tion in which it becomes apparent that the poppies can be accepted as
familiar flowers. But do the majority of flower gardeners appreciate
them at their full worth ? And do they realise the great variety of
material which the genus provides? It is to be feared that the
answer to both these questions is in the negative. It is said of
Poppies that they are very short-lived flowers. Their brilliance is
admitted, but it is pointed out that the blaze of colour which they
give is of very brief duration. This is at once correct and incorrect.
It applies to some of the annual Poppies, but not to others. And,
happily, it does not apply to some of the very finest of the forms —
the huge double varieties of the Paeony and Carnation-flowered
Poppies, which can be raised from seed just as easily as Mustard and
Cress, come into flower in a few weeks, and remain in beauty for no
inconsiderable period.

There is yet another criticism directed at the Poppies, namely,
that the seedlings will not endure transplantation. This would be
a rather serious objection if it were well founded, because it is not
always convenient to sow plants where they are to bloom, but it
appears to be a complete misapprehension. The writers are great

HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS 103

lovers of Poppies, and have grown them from seeds extensively. In
the majority of cases they have transplanted the seedlings, and always
with success. It is probable that the belief that Poppies will not
endure shifting is due to the little care which some flower gardeners
take in handling seedlings, letting them get crowded and drawn in
the first place, taking them up when the soil in which they are grow-
ing is dry, and putting them out in a sun-baked spot without taking any
precautions to get them established quickly. If they are kept thin in
the seed rows, so that they become sturdy and well furnished with
fibrous roots ; are moved when about a couple of inches high, and
with the soil sufficiently moist to cling to the roots ; are planted in
damp soil ; and are shaded for a few days after shifting, until it is
seen that they have started growing, they will transplant quite well.
What is here said applies to the double annual Poppies, and also to
such of the perennials as are raised from seed. As far as the Shirley
Poppies are concerned, it is not worth while to attempt transplanting.
They can be sown in patches in the borders, or broadcast in a bed.
Very few plants are more beautiful on a sunny bank than a breadth
of Shirley Poppies. The colours are brilliant and varied, and the
almost transparent flowers glisten brightly in the sunshine. They
should be sown thinly, and then left to nature. Some of the plants
will come through later than others, but this fact will tend in the
direction of continued flowering, and is therefore an advantage
rather than otherwise.

The Eastern Poppy is a grand perennial of brilliant colour.
The old plant is of a vivid orange scarlet, but it now has many
daughters of different shades, and some are sold under names ;
indeed, things seem to be tending in the direction of specialising the
plant. Whether this is worth while or not, readers must decide
according to the degree of their partiality for it. If they grow named
varieties, and find them good, they will be wise to propagate them
by means of cuttings of the roots, in order to keep them true.
The old plant, likewise the popular bracteatum, which is a brilliant

104 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

form of orientale, can be increased by seeds or division. The
fine Poppy called Papaver umbrosum, and often offered in seeds-
men's catalogues under that name, is scarlet, with black internal
blotches. It is easily raised from seed, and is a good deal
grown. A wise plan of dealing with it is to sow it at the end
of May with Wallflowers and Sweet Williams for flowering the
following year.

We must not forget the Iceland Poppies, which are as beautiful
and valuable as any of the genus, although much smaller in growth.
They are delightful little plants for border groups, and also for
rockwork, and they come freely from seed. Orange, yellow, and
white — all alike are bright, cheerful, graceful, free-blooming plants.
The botanist calls them Papaver nudicaule.

Pentstemons. — A few years ago the Pentstemon (or Penstemon,
it is often called, even professional horticulturists often omitting
the first "t") was almost an unknown plant. It occupied a cor-
responding position in the flower garden to what the Streptocarpus
did under glass. There were several species in the case of both
plants, which were mildly admired, and spoken of in a casual way as
" well worth improving." But for a time nobody made any particu-
lar attempt to improve them, and so they languished in obscurity.
However, the inevitable hybridist appeared at last, and we began to
get larger forms, with flowers of brighter colours. Once started, the
work of improvement went rapidly on, because other florists, scent-
ing profit, began to operate. Now we have a magnificent collection
of beautiful varieties. Any one who is interested in comparisons
might get seed of one of the old species, such as glaber, and grow it
in a bed with some of the best of the modern forms, as sold under
varietal names by florists.

He will then see what wonders expert cross-fertilisers are
capable of accomplishing. It is, perhaps, to the Scottish florists that
we owe the greatest debt of gratitude. They now have splendid
strains. The bells are larger than the largest Foxgloves — in fact

HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS 105

they are nearly as fine as prize Gloxinias. The colours, too, are
rich and diversified.

The flower gardener who cannot afford a collection of the
named varieties should get a packet of seeds from one of the
firms that specialise in Pentstemons. If he sows under glass early
in the year he will get flowering plants the same season. Or he
may sow outdoors in May or June for flowering the following
year. He is almost certain to get several varieties of the highest
merit, and he can mark them, and propagate them by cuttings
in October, in order to keep them true. It will be gathered
that the Pentstemon is an easily managed plant. There are few
more so. If any difficulty arises it is likely to be owing to over-
flowering. It is a fault of the right sort, of course, but it is apt
to be rather embarrassing, all the same. The plants may throw
their whole energies into the formation of flower stems and the
sustenance of the huge and brilliant bells that form thereon, so
that when autumn arrives there is not a scrap of growth from
which to make cuttings. Thus the grower finds himself in
serious danger of being unable to increase his favourite varieties.
He must exercise foresight, and if he sees that the plants are
flowering hard, and making no leaf shoots, he must remove the
flower spikes early in September, by which time they may have
passed their best, and put a little rich, moist soil round the
plants. This will probably have the effect of causing them to
throw up fresh shoots, that may be taken off any time in October,
or even November, preferably about three inches long, and inserted
firmly in sandy soil in an unheated frame or glass-covered box.
They will make little or no growth before spring, and it is not
desired that they should. They will grow steadily, however, when
the warm weather comes, and soon make sturdy plants.

A bed of Pentstemons is almost, if not quite, as beautiful as a
bed of Gladioli, and it can be had at much less cost. There is a
certain, though not a close, similarity between the two plants.

(2.299) 8

106 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

Both bear their flowers on long, gracefully drooping spikes, and
present a great variety of brilliant colours. Many of the best
Pentstemons have two clearly defined body colours, the one
on the outer part and the edges of the bell, the other on its
interior. These are extremely beautiful, and, as a rule, the more
sharply the line of demarcation is defined the more pleasing the

flowers are.

The plants thrive best in cool, rich, holding soil. They love
moisture, and should not be expected to give of their best in poor,
thin, dry ground. The wise cultivator will dig his soil two spades
deep, and work in a good dressing of decayed manure. This he
should do some time in winter, then the ground will be in excellent
condition for planting in spring. But Pentstemons may be planted
out in beds in which bulbs and other spring flowers have been grown.
They can be planted quite well as late as June provided that care is
taken to keep the soil moist, and to shade them for a few days if they
show signs of flagging. For this reason seedling Pentstemons may
be classed with Snapdragons and Indian Pinks as plants of more
than annual duration which serve a useful purpose when treated as
annuals. So great are their merits that it is perfectly safe to pro-
phesy that they will grow in favour rapidly every year, both as flower-
garden plants raised from seed and as special flowers cultivated under
names.

Primroses and Polyanthuses. — These are hardly herbaceous plants
in the ordinary acceptation of the term, because they are not leafless
throughout the winter. On the contrary, they grow in mild spells,
and are at their best in spring, when the majority of true herbaceous
plants are just awakening from their winter sleep. But they come
into the scheme of garden decoration of which hardy perennial plants
generally form the backbone. Primroses and Polyanthuses may be
introduced into herbaceous borders with great advantage, as well
as into ordinary flower beds; and here comes in the great value
of these most beautiful and accommodating flowers ; they can be

HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS 107

shifted into beds and borders in autumn, when the herbaceous and
annual plants are fading, and moved out again in the spring, when
other plants are coming on. The seasons are reversed ; instead of
Primroses and Polyanthuses growing in summer and resting in
winter, they grow in winter and pursue a calm, easy, though not quite
stagnant, existence in summer. In view of the great paucity of
winter-blooming hardy plants, it seems astonishing that a plant which
is as hardy as a hazel, blooms off and on the whole winter through,
and flowers gloriously throughout the spring, should not be grown
in every garden ; but the fact is that most people associate the
Primrose with the yellow wilding of the woodlands, and have no
idea that garden forms of great size, and with a wide range of
beautiful colours, exist. When they do awaken to the truth
Primroses will be as much in demand as Arabises and Forget-
me-nots, both of which they greatly excel in variety and value.

The coloured Primroses have been immensely improved in
recent years. We have larger flowers and more colours. We
have cream, pale and deep yellow, pink, rose, lilac, carmine,
crimson, and blue. We have, too, double as well as single
flowers. Only a botanical eye can see in these lovely flowers a
close relationship with the " rathe Primrose," and the lines of the
poet —

"Welcome, pale Primrose, starting up between
Dead matted leaves of ash and oak, that strew
The lawn, the wood, and the spinney through,
Mid creeping moss, and Ivy's darker green,"

seem hardly appropriate to the brilliant garden flower, however
admirable in relation to the " Primrose of the river's brim."

Every Primrose flower has its own separate stalk ; not so
every Polyanthus. In the latter we find that the flower stalk
subdivides, as it were, forming a cluster of short stems or pedicels,
each of which is surmounted by a flower. Thus, when we have
Primroses and Polyanthuses growing together — and they are almost

108 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

as natural associates as Mustard and Cress— we must call those in
which the flowers are borne separately Primroses, and those with
the flowers in bunches Polyanthuses. Both can be raised from
seed, and if it be home-gathered it may be sown out of doors in
a moist, fine seed-bed as soon as it is ripe. The plants can be
treated like Wallflowers— that is, thinned, transplanted if they
become very crowded (which, however, is unlikely), and planted
out where they are to bloom in October or November. If seed
has to be bought it should be got in winter, and sown under
glass early in the new year. A position on a greenhouse shelf
will suit it admirably, or a frame will do. The seedlings may be
pricked off into other boxes when they become crowded, and
planted out in a nursery bed in a cool, moist place in May or
June. They will make strong flowering plants by autumn. The
purchaser should make a point of getting his seed from a firm of
repute, because the strains differ a great deal. Some seed that
will germinate quite well is nevertheless unsatisfactory, because
the quality of the flowers which the plants produce is poor.

The best varieties for a good strain of seed may be marked
while they are in bloom, and specially propagated. If increased
by division they will keep true, but they will not do so if raised
from seed. The best time for division is late spring, after the
flowering is over. If the plants are large they may be divided
into several portions, but care should always be taken to get a
distinct part, with roots of its own. The pieces may be planted
in a semi-shady spot, in rich, cool soil. A dry position, fully
exposed to the sun during the greater part of the day, does not
suit them. They may not make large plants during the summer—
the probability is that they will not— but so long as they become
well established, and make some growth, it will suffice, because
they will grow rapidly in spring, and spread into large clumps
in a few weeks, flowering all the while. The ground may be
prepared for them as soon as it is cleared of its summer occu-

HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS 109

pants, which will probably be in October or November. It should
be dug deeply and manured liberally. If the plants are put into
beds by themselves they may go fifteen inches apart. But many
prefer to have bulbs in the beds as well, in which case the
clumps of bulbs may be two feet apart, and the Primroses and
Polyanthuses put in the spaces between. They may also be used,
with or without bulbs, for the front
of herbaceous borders. The Primroses
and Polyanthuses are all varieties of
Primula vulgaris.

Pyrethrums. — To the old school of
flower gardeners — the school that
revelled in carpet beds and ribbon
borders — the genus Pyrethrum was
familiar in the form of its yellow-leaved
representative, the - Golden Feather.
This plant was worked into all kinds of
elaborate designs in conjunction with
other foliage plants, such as Alternan-
theras, Iresines, Dracaenas, and Cha-
maepeuces. The result was a species of
plant mosaic, kept flat and close by per-
sistent cropping between finger and thumb throughout the summer.
Carpet bedding is now out of date, and the Pyrethrums cultivated
at the present time are varieties of the Rosy Feverfew, Pyrethrum
roseum, which differs absolutely from the Golden Feather. The
plants are green-leaved, and they have beautiful flowers borne on
long stems. It is, of course, for the blooms, and not for the leaves,
that we grow them. They rank high among hardy herbaceous
plants, and yet are not strictly herbaceous, as they generally retain
some of their leaves throughout the winter. Their new growth is
made very early, and they may nearly be classed as evergreens.

Every flower gardener must have a collection of Pyrethrums,

LIFTING CLUMPS

A, clump. B, open trench, wider at one part to
allow the spade or fork to he worked well
under. C, side shoot suitable for planting
in case of rare kinds or varieties. D, lifted
clump.

HO BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

and he will be wise if he selects both single and double. He will
find them almost equally valuable. If the singles lose a little in
comparison with the doubles on the plants— and it is not every-
body who will admit that they do— they gain when cut for room
decoration, as they look lighter and more graceful. Pyrethrums
are valuable in more ways than one. In the first place, they are
among the earliest of the border plants to bloom, and certainly the
earliest of their own standard .of merit. Secondly, they bloom very
profusely. Thirdly, they throw their flowers well up. Fourthly,
they will flower a second time if the fading blooms are removed.
Fifthly, the colours are brilliant and varied. These combine to give
them a very strong claim on attention. It might be added that
the foliage is distinctly handsome. They are in every respect most
valuable plants for borders of hardy flowers, and for grouping in
beds with other select perennials.

As far as soil is concerned the Pyrethrums are very easily
suited. They will thrive in almost any fertile, well-drained medium,
but, as might be expected, the finest plants are produced in rich,
deep, fertile ground. Dig deeply, manure generously, and your
Pyrethrums will give you a handsome reward. They may be
planted either in autumn or spring. If increase is required it may
be effected by dividing the plants when fresh growth commences.
The following are a few of the best varieties : —

Apollyon, pink.
Ascot, peach.

Carl Vogt, white.
Edna May, pink.

SINGLE.
Golconde, crimson.

Ornement, violet.

James Kelway, scarlet. Queen of the W kites > white

DOUBLE.
Lord Rosebery, scarlet. Pericles, yellow.

Melton, crimson.

Queen Alexandra^ white.

Roses. — Roses are sometimes introduced into herbaceous borders,
especially on stumps and pillars. They have been dealt with in
a special section.

HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS 111

Stocks. — To many people Stocks are only familiar in the form
of the popular "German Ten-week" varieties. Beautiful and valu-
able as these are, from their huge double spikes, rich colours,
long duration of bloom, and delicious fragrance, they ought not
to be the sole representatives of the genus. The Brompton Stock
is also a fine plant, well worthy of cultivation. Like the Ten-week,
it is easily raised from seed, but it is best treated as a biennial,
being sown in a frame in June, grown sturdily, and planted out,
if the position is fairly dry and well drained, in October for flower-
ing the following year. The plants are liable to be destroyed in
low. damp places, on which frost settles sharply in winter; and
in case of doubt they may be wintered in pots in frames. In the
latter event they will be planted out in spring, and a little trouble
may well be taken to prepare the ground, thorough digging and
manuring being resorted to, preferably a few weeks before planting
time. The plants will not be retained after flowering, but fresh
seeds sown ; thus they become what we call biennials. The
Brompton Stocks have bold growth, large flower spikes, and bright
colours to recommend them ; we may therefore turn to them with
confidence.

There is no reason, of course, why the Ten- week Stocks should
not be introduced into herbaceous borders if desired. There are
often positions near the front of borders where clumps might be
planted with great advantage. These beautiful flowers are genuine
annuals, but for all that they belong to the same genus as the
biennial Brompton— Matthiola. Whence the name " Stock," it may
be asked, and whence "Matthiola"? "Stock" is an abbreviation
of "Stock Gillyflower" (gilloflower or gilliflower). "Matthiola"
is derived from Matthioli, the genus having been named after an
Italian of that name. Our flower-loving forebears did not distin-
guish flowers by separate names so carefully as we do now, and
they called several plants which we regard as distinct by the col-
lective name of Gillyflowers. Stocks and Carnations were both

112 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

Gillyflowers. This presently led to confusion, which they endea-
voured to remove by using the term Stock Gillyflower for the
former and Clove Gillyflower for the latter. One had clear stems
or stocks, and the other, which was grassy in growth, had clove
perfume hence the distinctive terms. The Gillyflowers referred to
in the dialogue between Polixenes and Perdita in the "Winter's
Tale" are supposed to be Stocks—

"Pol. Then make your garden rich in Gillyflowers,

And do not call them bastards.
per I'll not put

The dibble in earth to set one slip of them."

Perdita would hardly have spoken so contemptuously if she
had lived at the present time and seen the beautiful "Stock
Gillyflowers" which we now possess. But is it certain that
Shakespeare had Stocks in mind, after all, when he wrote this?
It certainly seems so, because in a previous passage he makes
Perdita speak of —

"Carnations and streak'd Gillyflowers,
Which some call Nature's bastards."

But if so, he was caught tripping horticulturally, because
there could be no call for "dibble" and "slips" in the case of
the annual Stock Gillyflower, which would be raised from seed,
although they might be fairly applicable to Pinks and Carnations,
if propagated by cuttings, as they often were, doubtless.

The Ten- week or annual Stocks which we possess nowadays
give a large percentage of doubles, if the splendid strains of the
German florists are bought from reliable seedsmen. A strain
composed entirely of singles is tolerable, but a strain which is
a mixture of singles and doubles in the proportion of two or three
of the former to one of the latter is disappointing and trouble-
some. It is difficult to plant it to advantage, because there is a
considerable difference in the size of the plants and the duration
of the flowers. The grower must expect a certain number of

ROSE, FORTUNE'S YELLOW
By Margaret Waterfield

HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS 113

singles, because all the seed is saved from single flowers, and
great as are the skill and care of the florist, he cannot insure that
every plant raised from seed of a single flower will become double.
No reasonable person will expect that. A good strain will yield
from seventy to eighty per cent, of doubles, and that is quite satis-
factory, because the flower gardener who objects to singles has
only to plant three extra in every ten he puts in, to allow for
removals when the plants come into bloom.

There may be two or three distinct strains offered in the cata-
logues. There are almost certain to be two, namely, the " Dwarf
German " and the " Giant Perfection." The latter is larger in all
its parts than the former, and is more branching in habit, but it
is not superior in richness and variety of colour, or in perfume.
For the front of beds the dwarf strain is the more useful. In
both cases seed can be bought either in mixture or separate
colours. It is wise to sow about the middle of March where
glass is available ; where it is not, and outdoor sowing becomes
imperative, the process should be deferred until the end of April.
The seed may be sown thinly in a pot, pan, or box of light, sandy
soil, and covered a bare half-inch deep. The receptacle should be
covered with a square of glass shaded with paper, and placed on
a shelf close to the glass in a greenhouse, or in a frame. The
soil must be kept just moist, not sodden. When the plants come
through, full exposure to light is imperative, and abundance of air
should be allowed. The seedlings may be pricked off four inches
apart in boxes when they begin to crowd each other, carefully
watered, liberally ventilated, and so kept sturdy — truly " stocky." If
planted out eighteen inches apart in rich, well-dug soil, they will
give satisfaction.

A few seeds of the night-scented Stock, Matthiola bicornis,
may be sown in a flower-bed not far from the house windows
about the middle of April. It is not a beautiful plant, but the
perfume is delicious in the evening.

H4 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

Sunflowers— -The Sunflower in its many forms, annual and
perennial, is an old-time favourite. Perhaps we hold it a little
too cheaply. We have been used to it all our lives, and we may
not have learned the differences between the varieties, because it
has not occurred to us that the plants are worthy of being studied.
We sow them or plant them, and there's an end of it.

"Sunflowers planted for their gilded show,
That scale the lattice windows ere they blow,
Then sweet to habitants within the sheds,
Peep through the diamond panes their gilded heads.

So sings the poet. He is guilty of tautology, for he uses the
adjective "gilded" twice in four lines, but when he speaks of
their being "sweet to habitants within the sheds," he knows what
he is talking about. He was probably a poultry-keeper, and had
learned how fond fowls are of the oily seeds.

Moore was not equally correct, although distinctly more poetical,
when he used the figure —

" As the Sunflower turns to her God when he sets
The same look which she turned when he rose."

It is a pleasing fancy that the Sunflower follows the sun in its
passage of the heavens, but it is not based on fact. Anyone who
grows a group of Sunflowers may observe that some flowers are
facing the sun at dawn, and some at sunset, but they are not
the same flowers ; and they certainly do not twist round and
follow the sun's orbit.

The Sunflower belongs to the genus Helianthus, and there are
both annual and perennial forms of it. The former are propagated
by seed, and the latter by seeds and division. The annuals may
be sown under glass in March, or out of doors at the end of
April, and the perennials may be divided at the same period.
Most of them are tall, and some are also bushy growers, so that
they take up a good deal of space. On this account they must
not be planted numerously, especially near the front of beds or

HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS 115

borders, but should be arranged in small groups in positions at
the back, where they can develop to their heart's content. They
may soar to ten or even twelve feet high, and they will certainly
make a brave show, which will last for a considerable time in late
summer and early autumn. The double perennial forms are
particularly lasting. Both the annuals and perennials love a
deep, cool, moist soil, but they are not fastidious. They will
need staking, or the first gale will spoil them.

The common annual Sunflower, Helianthus annuus, has several
varieties, both single and double. Of
the former, giganteus and Munstead
Primrose may be mentioned. Of the
latter, globosus fistulosus is excellent.
There is a dwarfer, more bushy annual
Sunflower named cucumerifolius (cu-
cumber-leaved), and this, together with
its variety Stella, is well worth grow-
ing. It flowers very abundantly. There
is also an annual Sunflower with silvery
leaves, called argophyllus, which is
greatly liked by many. As respects

J J J

the perennials, decapatalus may be
mentioned first. It grows about six feet high, and has small,
single, yellow flowers, which it bears very freely. The best-
known species is multiflorus (many-flowered) single, of which
there are several varieties, both single and double. It grows
about four feet high, is bushy, and blooms very profusely.
The variety maximus is much finer than the parent species.
It grows taller, and has larger flowers. There is an excellent
double variety called Soleil d'or. The species orgyalis (a soft
pronunciation of the "g" lends a distinctly bacchanalian sound
to this name) is a very useful Sunflower, partly because it has
exceptionally handsome leaves, and partly because it flowers

AN ERROR IN PLANTING

?f 'he latt" ,r°b the L^""5 °f food- A-

herbaceous plants ; B, tree roots.

116 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

later than the majority of the species. Botanists now class the
popular plant generally known as Harpalium rigidum as a
Helianthus, under the name of H. rigidus. Probably the old name
will cling to it for a considerable time, but the plant is likely to
be less and less grown, as the variety Miss Mellish is finer.

Sweet Williams.— -The Sweet William, Dianthus barbatus of
botanists, has always been a favourite garden flower, and it was
once by way of being a florist's flower on a modest scale, but
Roses, Dahlias, Sweet Peas, Carnations, Violas, and others had
greater merits, and gradually squeezed it into the background.
Nowadays it is rarely cultivated in the florist's ''grand style." It
is not specialised, and varieties with distinctive names to be
propagated by cuttings in order to keep them true, are extremely
rare. It is lumped with Wallflowers, Foxgloves, and Canterbury
Bells in the class of "useful hardy biennials," and seed is sown
out of doors about the end of May for flowering the following
year. But these same seedling plants yield a particularly fine
variety now and then, if the seed comes from a good source ; and
it should be known that a superior sort can be perpetuated much
more certainly by cuttings than by seeds. The shoots which grow
from the base of the plants in summer, and are free of flower
stems, are the only kind that there is any good chance of striking,
and even these require care and attention, owing to the fact that
they are taken in summer, when the weather may be hot and
dry. It is well to insert them in a cool, shady place, and to
moisten them if they show any signs of flagging.

There are one or two varieties of Sweet William on the
market which come true from the seed. Among these is a beauti-
ful salmon pink, a very distinct, bright, and useful variety, dwarf
in habit, free-flowering, and well adapted for planting in borders.
One gets the best plants of it — as, indeed, of all Sweet Williams
raised from seed — when the seedlings are carefully thinned, and
the plants are put out nine inches apart in a nursery bed, there

HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS 117

to remain until autumn, and then be transplanted into rich,
deeply-dug ground. This ensures very sturdy plants, that are
certain to bloom well. They may last several years, indeed
become quite perennial, if they are prevented from ripening seed
by having the decaying flower heads pinched off; but it is very
little trouble to raise fresh plants every year, and all things con-
sidered, they give greater satisfaction. One little hint to the
reader who gardens in the country, especially near a wood, or
a sandhill — 'ware rabbits. These pests will destroy the work of
several months among Sweet Williams, Carnations, Wallflowers,
and other popular things in a night or two if they are permitted
free entrance to the garden. They should be wired out, or snared.

Some seedsmen offer seed of a strain of what they call " Auri-
cula-eyed " Sweet Williams. This is the type that the florist
specialised in years gone by. It is not every seedsman who has
a really high-class strain, but some firms of repute have it and
give close attention to keeping it true and good by careful selection
for the benefit of certain regular customers. There are also double
Sweet Williams.

The origin of the popular name has excited the curiosity of
some lovers of the flower, but they have found it difficult to
trace it. As a matter of fact, the name Sweet William was
applied to more than one plant in past times, notably the Wall-
flower, which belongs to an entirely different genus. The plant
is related to the Carnations and Pinks, and as the specific name
" barbatus " means " bearded," the cognomen of " bearded pink " is
quite justified. By whatever name it may be called, and whatever
the derivation of its several names, the plant must be grown, for,
in the words of Cowley —

"Sweet William small has form and aspect bright."

Tulips. — The revival of the Tulip has led to the introduction
of a large number of beautiful varieties, many, of them tall and

118 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

stately in growth, with immense flowers of brilliant and varied
colours. They are magnificent spring-flowering border plants, and
special attention has been devoted to them in the bulb section.

Violas.— The Viola is an old flower, and yet a modern one—
an apparent paradox that requires a word of explanation. When
we use the word Viola in a garden sense nowadays, we employ it
in reference to a plant which occupies as well defined a place in
gardens as Carnations and Dahlias. It is a modern plant, repre-
sented by numerous beautiful varieties, some of which are grown
in nearly every garden. The Viola, indeed, rides the wave of
popularity, and is likely to do so for many years, owing to its
outstanding merits. Some people call it the " tufted Pansy," and
the name is not inapt, inasmuch as the growth is tufty, and the
plants are at least as much Pansies as Violas. But Pansies play
a distinct part from Violas in gardens, and besides, it is inadvis-
able to use two words where one will suffice. How has the
modern Viola arisen? Undoubtedly by hybridisation between old
species and modern Pansies. The Pansy itself is, of course, a
Viola, V. tricolor. By uniting some of the small-flowered but
tufty-growing species of Viola such as alpina, with large-flowered,
but non-tufty, Pansies, the florists have raised this modern class
of garden Viola or tufted Pansy. The plants are distinguished
by dense, compact growth, relatively large flowers, rich and diversi-
fied colours, and great profusion and persistency in flowering.
Qualities like these were bound to make them popular garden
plants, and such they have become ; indeed, their rise in favour
during the last ten years of the nineteenth century, and the early
years of the twentieth, was one of the wonders of modern flower
gardening.

The Violas are not suitable for making bold effects in borders,
but they are admirably adapted for forming carpets among tall
plants. They can be utilised for this purpose in herbaceous borders
and in Rose beds. Those who grow standard Roses in particular

HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS 119

may turn to Violas. The area of bare ground, and the stems
rising therefrom, are great drawbacks to standards. Plant Violas
beneath them, and bareness is transformed into beauty. They can
also be pressed into service for forming lines and edgings to beds
and borders. For edging purposes they look best when planted
in bands a foot or more across. If well grown, regularly picked
over, and occasionally top-dressed or given a soaking of liquid
manure, they will be in beauty for six months.

Those flower gardeners who want to get the best out of Violas
should make a start by buying plants in spring, and planting
them in deeply-dug, well-manured soil. The earlier this is done
the better, because when planted early they have a good chance
of getting well established before the hot weather comes. But
they can be planted up to June and even July, if the grower is
prepared to take trouble in shading and watering. It is courting
failure to plant in thin, dry, hungry soil. The plants enjoy depth,
coolness, moisture, and fertility. Given this they will be full of
vigour, and will keep growing for many weeks. They may be
planted about nine inches apart. Old plants will give earlier
flowers than young ones, but will not bloom so finely or so long.

Constant cutting should be practised throughout the summer.
The flowers will be found useful in the house, and apart from
that, the regular picking will prevent seed-pods forming, and so
keep the plants growing. If they seem disposed to go out of
bloom, and get bare-stemmed, they may be clipped in, removing
the old, worn growths as well as the flowers, and the soil among
them mulched with rich soil. This will encourage fresh growth,
and they will soon be in bloom again. Heavy soakings of water
and liquid manure will also do them good.

Propagation can be readily effected in autumn by means of
cuttings. Flowerless, growing shoots springing from the base are
best, and if these are inserted just clear of each other in sandy
soil in a frame or small box covered with glass they will pass

12o BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

the winter nearly dormant, and quickly make strong plants in

spring.

The following are beautiful varieties of Violas : —

*Accushlat white and blue.

A. /. Rowberry, yellow.

* Archibald Grant, plum blue.

*Ardwell Gem, primrose.

*Blue Cloud, white, blue edge.

^Bullion, deep yellow.

*Countess of Hopetoun, white.

Crieffie Smith, black and lavender.

Councillor Waters, purplish crimson.

Duchess of Argyll, white, purple edge.

General Baden Powell, orange.

Hector Macdonald, white, purple edge.
*/. B. Riding, mauve.
*Mauve Queen, mauve.
Mrs. C. McPhaily heliotrope.
Minnie J. Ollar, cream, edged purple.
*Rolph, blue.
*Snowflake, white.
*True Blue, dark blue.
* William Neil, rosy lavender.
*W. P. A. Smith, cream, heliotrope
edge.

Those marked * are particularly free-flowering and good for the garden.

Wallflowers. — A delicious old-fashioned flower is Cheiranthus
Cheirii, popularly known as the Wallflower. Who does not know
it? Who does not love it? Its spicy fragrance greets us in
spring, and reminds us of the cottage gardens into which we
loved to peep in childhood's days. It is an old, old flower, but
just as great a favourite with us as it was with the gardeners of
past days. Its love for stony cliff sides, and for the crumbling
walls of old ruins, is well known. There it gets what appears to
be a precarious foothold, and flowers most cheerfully —

"And where my favourite abbey rears on high
Its crumbling ruins, on their loftiest crest,
Ye Wallflowers, shed your tints of golden dye,
On which the morning sunbeams love to rest."

Thus sings Barton. On various cliff sides by the sea, notably
under the far-famed Leas at Folkestone, the Wallflowers form
colonies as happy and as sweet as those on ruined walls. They
have probably been planted there by the town gardeners some
time or other. In olden days the Wallflower used to be called
the "wall-gillyflower," but this was abbreviated to Wallflower,
just as "stock-gilly flower" was reduced to plain "Stock."

Of course the Wallflower is not restricted to culture on walls

Si

uj

CL
CL

HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS 121

and cliff sides, but is cultivated in gardens, and happy as the
plant seems to be in positions where it can get little moisture,
as in dry limestone crevices, experience teaches that it not only
grows in the deep, rich soil of cultivated beds, but makes finer
plants there than on the walls. It may seem a little surprising,
in view of the plant's love for a dry site, but our finest plants
have developed on deep, cool, fertile clay. They are best grown
as biennials — that is, sown at the end of May, thinned, set out
a foot apart in a nursery bed when they begin to crowd each
other, and planted out in October or November for blooming the
following spring. The best selections come quite true from seed.
Of singles there are the following : —

Belvoir Castle, yellow.
Eastern Queen, dark apricot.

Faerie Queen, citron.
Harbinger, brown.

Ruby Gem, ruby.
Vulcan, dark red.

The double German Wallflowers are splendid, Stock-like plants,
which may be raised from seed ; and the newer Annual Wallflower,
which blooms the same year from spring-sown seed, must not be
forgotten.

VAEIOUS HARDY PLANTS

While the majority of flower gardeners will form their borders
and beds principally with the popular plants dealt with in the
foregoing notes, some, at least, will also use other flowers. The
number of distinct kinds of herbaceous plants is enormous, and
some of those which are little known to the great flower-loving
public, but are familiar enough to people who make a study of
hardy flowers, are extremely beautiful. The fact that many amateurs
proceed to absurd extremes, and fling themselves into a state of
ecstatic rapture over any plant which happens to be hardy and
herbaceous, should not deter sensible and level-headed people from
making themselves acquainted with really beautiful and worthy
plants. Let us pick out a few of the best of the less-known
hardy flowers. If we put them into three sections — dwarf (not

(2,299)

122 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

exceeding two feet high), medium (two to three feet high), and tall
(upwards of three feet high)— the planter will have a useful guide
to arrangement ; but it may be well to point out that height varies
with soil, situation, and culture. Nearly all of those selected may
be propagated by division in spring, and many by seeds.

DWARF HERBACEOUS PLANTS

(Some of the quite low-growing plants in this section are re-
served for consideration under Rock Plants.)

Achillea. — About the best plant in this
genus is the variety of Ptarmica called
The Pearl, which has double white
flowers. It is very useful.

Anchusa italica (Borageworf). — Free flower-
ing, and of a rich, dark blue.

Anthericum Liliastrum (St. Bruno's Lily].
— A graceful plant with white flowers.

Armeria cephalotes. — A bright and free-
blooming plant with pink flowers.

Cheiranthus Marshallii. — A species of Wall-
flower, with brilliant orange flowers.

Centaurea montana. — One of the Corn-
flowers, with blue flowers. The common
Cornflower, an annual, is Centaurea
Cyanus.

Corydalis lutea. — A beautiful yellow-flowered
plant.

Delphinium nudicaule. — This differs greatly
from the florists' Delphiniums, which
have already been treated on. It grows
about two feet high, and has red flowers.

Dicentra (Dielytra) spectabilis. — The Lyre
Flower or Bleeding Heart. A graceful
plant with pink flowers, procurable
in the form of dry roots from bulb-
dealers in the autumn.

Dodecatheon Meadia (American Cowslip}.
—A pretty plant, of which the bulb-
dealers will furnish a supply
autumn. Colours various.

in

Erigerons (Fleabanes\ — Good plants. Au-
rantiacus, orange ; Manescavi (Heron's
Bill), pink ; and speciosus, violet, are
all worth including.

Funkias (Plantain Lilies]. — Graceful plants.
Grandiflora, white, is about the best.

Gentians. — The taller species, such as
Andrewsii, may be grown in the
border; the dwarfer ones are best
kept for the rockery.

Geraniums (Crane's Bills). — These are, of
course, very different from the Zonal
" Geraniums," which are tender plants.
Of the hardy species sanguineum,
red, and Endressi, pink, are two of
the best. They are strong growing
and very free-flowering plants, which
will be found extremely useful.

Geums (Avens). — Bright and free-flower-
ing. Coccineum, scarlet, is the best
known.

Gillenia trifoliata. — Pink.

Helenium pumilum. — A very free-flower-
ing plant, with yellow flowers. The
variety striatum is also good.

Hemerocallis (Day Lilies]. — Among the most
desirable of border plants, owing to
their bright flowers and very graceful
habit. Dumortieri, orange, is one of
the best species, but there are now
several beautiful hybrids on the market,

HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS

123

which, if rather too expensive for
the majority of people, may appeal
to some.

Heuchera sanguined. — A beautiful plant with
rosy red flowers, well worth specialis-
ing. There are several varieties of it,
all pleasing and graceful.

Incarvillea Delavayi. — Large, funnel-
shaped crimson flowers.

Inula glandulosa. — A beautiful plant, with
deep yellow flowers, very striking and
handsome.

Hypericums (St. Johris Worts]. — Valuable
plants on account of the fact that they
thrive in shady positions. They pro-
duce yellow flowers.

Lobelias. — Everybody knows the little blue
annual Lobelia, which is used for
edgings, and is a tender plant. Those
now referred to are the tall, hardy
kinds, such as cardinalis, red, and
syphilitica, blue. They are splendid
plants. Several distinct varieties of
cardinalis are offered by the nursery-
man.

Lychnis. — The best of this genus, which
includes the Campion, is perhaps
the beautiful double rose kind called
Viscaria flore pleno.

Meconopsis cambrica. — This is the yellow
Welsh Poppy.

Monarda didyma. — This is the perfumed
Bergamot. The flowers are red.

Orobus aurantius. — A useful yellow flower.

Ourisia coccinea (Bear's Ear). — A very
distinct and pretty little plant, with red
flowers.

Physalis (Winter Cherry], — Handsome on
account of the bright coral or scarlet
calyxes or pods, which are the finest
in the species Francheti.
Potentillas (Cinquefoils). — Dwarf plants,
with leaves much resembling those of
Strawberries, and bright and varied
flowers, both single and double.

Polemonium caeruleum. — The blue Lung-
wort, a very pretty plant.

Primula japonica. — A beautiful plant, with
flowers of deep rose or crimson, borne
in tiers (whorls). It loves the water-
side. Denticulata, lilac, is also a
pretty Primula.

Ranunculus aconitifolius plenus (Fair
Maids of France). — White.

Sanguinaria canadensis (Bloodroof). — A
distinct and attractive plant, with white
flowers.

Saxifragas. — Most of these are rockery
plants, but granulata, white, can be
grown in the herbaceous border with
advantage.

Scabious. — The species caucasica, which
has large, single, flattish, pale blue
flowers, should be grown, as it is
extremely beautiful.

Senecio pulcher. — A very beautiful plant,
with purplish-rose flowers.

Spiraeas. — The Spiraeas (Meadow Sweets)
are really shrubs, but several of them,
and particularly palmata, red, are used
in herbaceous borders.

Statices. — Several of these are desirable
plants, and one of the best of them
is latifolia, which has blue flowers.

Thalictrum anemonoides (Meadow Rue). —
Pink flowers.

Tiarella cordifolia (Foam Flower). — Beau-
tiful, feathery heads of white flowers.
Likes a shady position.

Tradescantia virginica (Spiderworf). — Blue
— a pretty plant with slender leaves.
There is also a white form.

Trillium grandiflorum (American Wood
Lily). — A beautiful white flower, lov-
ing shade. Bulb-dealers supply it in
autumn.

Trollius (Globe Flower). — Bright and cheer-
ful plants, flowering in late spring.
Europaeus, the best-known species,
has pale yellow flowers, but there
are several forms of it. Asiaticus, an-
other well-known kind, has also yellow
flowers, but of a deeper shade, and
there is an orange-coloured form of it.

124

BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

PLANTS OF MEDIUM HEIGHT

Achillea MilUfolium roseum (Milfoil).— A
free-flowering plant with pink flowers.

Centranthus ruber ( Valerian}.— This is
the plant sometimes seen growing wild
on railway embankments; the flowers
are in various shades of red. There
is also a white Valerian.

Coreopsis. — There are several good species
of this genus, notably lanceolata and
grandiflora, both of which are yellow
flowered.

Echinops Ritro, — A plant with metallic
flowers, blue in colour, and much
resembling an Eryngium.

Eryngiums (Sea Hollies), — Exceedingly

distinct plants, with metallic, spiny

flowers, principally blue in colour.

There are several species.
Geranium pratense, — Another of the Crane's

Bills, with blue flowers.
Hemerocallis flava. — Another of the Day

Lilies, with orange flowers.
Lychnis, — Coronaria, red, and Vespertina

flore pleno, double white, are two

good plants.
Spiraea filipendula. — Free - blooming,

cream.

In the above section the flower gardener will also include
Campanulas, Irises, Liliums, Paeonies, Phloxes, and Pentstemons,
which are dealt with separately.

TALL PLANTS

Several very fine plants come into this section. Asters (Michael-
mas Daisies) and Helianthuses (Sunflowers) have already been
dealt with.

Acanthus mollis (Bear's Breech\ — A good
plant with purple and white flowers,
but perhaps most remarkable on ac-
count of its very distinct and hand-
some foliage.

Aconitum (Monk's-hood}, — A plant of grim
and evil repute, owing to the extremely
poisonous nature of its roots, never-
theless very handsome, with its tall
stems of dark-blue flowers.

Bocconia cordata (Plume Poppy] A very

distinct and handsome plant, with
broad, spreading foliage, and tall
spikes of cream-coloured flowers.

Boltonia asteroides. — An autumn-blooming
plant with pale lilac flowers; very

closely resembling a Michaelmas Daisy.
It blooms freely.

Dictamnus albus (Burning Busk). — A tall
white perennial, the stems of which
bear an inflammable resin, that ignites
if a light is put to it. The variety
Fraxinella is purple.

Epilobium angustifolium ( Willow Herb). —
A tall and graceful plant with red
flowers, doing well near water.

Eremurus. — The Eremuri are stately and
beautiful plants, the flower stems of
which rise five or six feet high.
Robustus, pink, and himalaicus, white,
are both very fine.

Galegas (Goat's Rues). — Very free-flowering

HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS

125

and long-lasting plants, that succeed
in nearly all soils, but best in a deep,
moist medium. The species officinalis
is lilac, but there is a white variety,
also one with variegated leaves. All
are useful and graceful.

Gynerium argenteum (Pampas Grass). —
A beautiful plant for an isolated
position on a lawn. It is at its best
in early autumn, when the white,
silky plumes are fully matured.

Polygonums (Knotweeds\ — Two useful
species are cuspidatum, white, and
sacchalinense, yellow.

Romneya Coulteri (Calif ornian Bush Poppy).
— A glorious, shrub-like plant, growing
to large proportions, and bearing im-
mense, single white flowers. It is
not quite hardy, and some dry litter
should be spread over the stool in
the winter.

Rtidbeckias (Cone Flowers). — Useful per-
ennials, growing in moist soils, and
flowering freely. Grandiflora, purple
with yellow, and maxima, yellow, are
good species.

Solidago speciosa (Golden Rod]. — A grace-
ful and beautiful plant, with pendent
plumes of yellow flowers in late
summer.

Spiraea Ulmaria (Meadow Sweet}. — One
of the most useful of the Spiraeas;
white flowers.

Verbascums (Mulleins). — Tall plants,
mostly with yellow flowers. Chaixii
and olympicum are two of the best-
known species.

Veronica longifolia subsessilis. — A valuable
blue-flowered perennial.

Yucca angustifolia (A dam's needle). — Large
heads of cream-coloured flowers, very
handsome.

ROCKERY PLANTS

No phase of gardening is more interesting to that large number
of persons which loves to take its hobbies seriously than the
cultivation of rock plants. Some people enjoy gardening in a
light and airy sort of way. They like just to "stick things in,"
and then leave them to look after themselves. They are not pre-
pared to take much trouble; the necessity for that makes gar-
dening irksome to them, and robs it of its charm. Others are so
earnest by nature, so thorough and painstaking in everything that
they do, that they would no more think of taking their gar-
dening lightly than they would their devotions, or the training of
their children. They are conscientious, perhaps even to a fault. In
their play, as in their work, they study detail with infinite and
loving care.

Successful rock gardening is not a process of "sticking in."
It calls insistently for detail. It is exacting. While rock plants
as a class have much in common they also have individual likes
and dislikes. One cannot put out a collection of rock plants in
the same way as a farmer can turn a flock of sheep into a field,
and let each look after itself. The making of the rockery is in
itself a considerable undertaking, calling for much care, judgment,
and knowledge.

It is with no desire to frighten flower-lovers away from rock
gardening that its somewhat exigent nature is pointed out. Many
people will be attracted to it by this very fact. The point which we
think it desirable to establish at the outset is that the cultivation
of rockery plants is a different and more serious matter than the
handling of a few bedding plants. And having gone so far it is
desirable to go a little further, and make it clear that rockwork

KOCKERY PLANTS

127

is comparatively expensive. Given half an acre of garden devoted
to herbaceous borders or bedding plants, and a similar area devoted
to rockeries, the last would be much the most costly. This arises
partly from the cost of construction of the rockery, and partly
from the greater number of plants required.

Whether a rockery is too expensive a luxury for any particular
flower gardener or not, must of course depend upon circumstances.
An important factor is the stone supply. Is it near or far? Have
you a quarry within easy distance for carts, or would you have
to send one hundred and fifty miles for
stones, and then have to cart them three
or four miles, owing to being a con-
siderable distance from a railway? Much
turns on the reply to these questions.
Remember that stones, and large, hard
stones, are really necessary. Hotch-potch
rockeries made up of clinkers are only

CONSTRUCTION OF ROCKERIES

satisfying to those who have seen no R5ght and wrong way to fix the stones.

nthpr "Dirprtlv trip nwnpr nf 3 Hinkpr Long, or round-shaped rockeries. A,

oiner. uirecuy me owner wrong way . B> right way Thearrows

rockery sees one made well with suit- show that on A side there is no space

J left for soil, but there is on B side.

able stones his pleasure in his property c shows stones too formal M regards

J placing.

departs, because he sees that it is un-
natural. In rock gardening we set ourselves deliberately to copy
nature. We not only elect to grow good plants, but also to grow
them in a particular environment, such as they would have in a
state of nature. No one who can get hard stone locally need hesi-
tate about starting rock gardening, for with a charge for stone of
no more than five or six shillings a ton, the cost is not going to
be excessive. If, however, the necessary stone has to be got from
a distance, at a possible cost of a pound to twenty-five shillings a
ton, it is well to carefully calculate matters before making a start.
One obvious way of reducing the cost of a rockery that a person
who is bent upon having one, and yet has only a little money

128 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

to spare, can adopt, is to have a small one. It is not large
rockeries alone which yield pleasure.

Having made a concession to conscience by pointing out cer-
tain facts which must be taken into consideration by those who
contemplate establishing a rockery, the writers gladly turn to the
more agreeable task of indicating some of the special pleasures
and advantages of rockery flowers. In the first place, let us pay
a tribute to their intrinsic beauty. Among Alpine plants we find
some of the most exquisite of all floral gems. Many are evergreens,
or, to coin a word, " ever-silvers," since

A

their leaves are grey or white. There
is great diversity of habit and foliage
among them. The flowers are of the
most delicate and refined beauty. Their
colours are fresh, clear, and sparkling.
Then there is the prolonged period of
beauty. Some of the plants come into
bloom in the winter.

Many — in fact, the majority — flower
in spring. There are plants which
flower in summer, and others which
bloom in autumn. Thus our gardening interest is not allowed
to lie dormant during any part of the year. It is being con-
stantly stimulated. We are led on from day to day, from week
to week, from month to month, by the never-ending succession
of charming flowers. The well-managed rockery is rarely bare of
flowers, and it is never absolutely without colour, either of leaf
or bloom.

Over and above these considerations there is what is spoken
of, somewhat indefinitely, perhaps, as " interest." Rock plants are
deeply, intensely " interesting." They attract our thoughts, engage
our affections, stimulate our minds. We cannot treat them cava-
lierly. If we study them at all we become absorbed in them. All

5l=r^^~-^?--3vs~^f:35;£i=^i?===

CONSTRUCTION OF ROCKERIES

Ground-plan of rockery against a wall. A,
wall; B, stones; C, soil. D shows
second layer of stones coming irregu-
larly between the first laid down.

ROCKERY PLANTS 129

this, however, makes for our good, because the best side of our
nature is being brought into prominence. There is one other
consideration worth mentioning, which is that when once our
rockery is formed the work associated with it is not laborious, but
light. This will not appeal to young, strong, healthy, energetic
people ; it will, however, do so to elderly and delicate folk, who
love flowers, but are unequal to the fatigue of general gardening.
And in this connection it may be pointed out that rock gardening
presents an almost ideal form of indulgence in the pleasures of
cultivating flowers for ladies, to whom
the delicate beauty and fragility of the
Alpine gems form a special appeal.

Now for a few practical points in
connection with making and furnishing
rockeries, beginning with the stones.
In countries where chalk hills exist it
is generally possible to buy a form of
limestone called " rag." It varies in
hardness in different districts. Where
quite soft it is not suitable for the
purpose, as it crumbles quickly under
the influence of the weather. A limestone, however, that is
hard enough to require considerable force to break it up will do
very well. It may not be ideal stone, but it is quite suitable,
and persons of narrow means need not hesitate to use it. If pro-
curable locally it is very cheap. Sandstone is excellent for the
purpose in view. It is harder than " rag," but, as a rule, the cost
is greater. Derbyshire spar is splendid stone, and those who lay
themselves out for doing rock gardening thoroughly well, and are
not stinted for money, frequently employ it, buying it through one
of the nurserymen from whom they procure their plants. The
stone is cheap enough at the quarries, but the freightage frequently
makes the cost considerable. The advantage of buying the stone

CONSTRUCTION OF ROCKERIES
Section of rockery against a wall.

13o BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

through a florist is that he generally knows how to go about
getting it in pieces of the right size and shape. This is a very
important consideration. One might buy a ton of stone in two
or three lumps, but that would be useless, except for very large
rockeries indeed. Moderate-sized pieces, weighing from five to ten
pounds, and nearly flat, are the most suitable. Large pieces that
are nearly as thick as they are long are not desirable.

The superior utility of flat stone over
thicker material quickly becomes apparent
when the rockery-builder begins his opera-
tions ; in fact, it will be apparent to him
if he first visits a good rock garden, in
search of practical hints to guide his work.
It is unfortunate that such examples are
not to be found in more of our public parks
and gardens, where they might well take
the place of part of the overdone " bedding-
out." There are good reasons, of course,
why a certain amount of bedding must be

done> and we do not suest that rockeries

CONSTRUCTION OF ROCKERIES

Showing how to place stones for large
and small plants. Top figure —

mg^gracefullyoveredgeofrockery

should wholly take the place of flower-
funds available for conducting public gar-
dens are limited ; moreover, we realise that something very
simple and bright is needed to please the public. But there
should be examples of rock gardening for the benefit of people
of more culture, who, after all, help to pay for the maintenance
of public gardens. As things are, it is practically only in a few of
the largest botanical gardens, such as Kew and Edinburgh, that
instructive specimens of rock gardening can be seen.

Alike for effect, reasonable economy in the use of stone, and
for the benefit of the plants, the rockery-builder should use his
material sparingly. It will help the Alpine lover to practise

131

moderation in this respect if he will make a point of paying a

preliminary visit to an existing rock garden, made by an expert,

if he is fortunate enough to know of one, either public or private,

within reasonable distance, to which he can get access. He will

probably find that the number of stones used is quite small, that

on the whole they are fairly large and flat, that they are fixed in

position very firmly, and that they are disposed in such a way as

to form roomy pockets or beds. He will probably see that where

the stones are laid flat the inner portion of the stone is a little

lower than the outer part ; in other

words, that they have a downward slope

towards the soil. The object of this is

to carry rain inwards to the plants,

instead of outwards away from them.

Where stones are placed on end so as

to form pockets they will probably be

tilted inward at the top, so that the

pocket is widest at the bottom. This

again favours the reception and retention ROCKERY PLANTED

by the soil of moisture, which, on ele- A> nlinjature ,rofer7; .B* ^^ andf

J trailing plants growing in hollow of

vated mounds, always tends to drain away Iaree r?cj c ; D' soil in which rock is

J J embedded.

from the plants and leave the soil too dry.

A person who has sloping ground in his garden, or anything
in the way of a ravine, small or large, can take advantage of it
for his rockery. If he has to work on a perfectly flat site he will
have to form a mound, small or large, regular or irregular in
shape, according to his means and tastes. A rocky ridge may
be constructed that winds in gentle undulations, advancing here,
receding there, so as to form little promontories and bays ; or
there may be parallel ridges, with a central path winding through
them. Experienced rockery-builders are very skilful in forming
such gardens, and turn a bare flat into an Alpine region in
miniature with great cunning. Beginners will perhaps act wisely

—~=-C

132 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

by contenting themselves for the first year or two with a plain rock
bed or mound, and proceeding to more elaborate things after they
have gained experience. In any case, however, they will be wise
to choose a sunny position, because rock plants love the sun.
Such few as do best with shade and a great deal of moisture can
be placed near the foot, or on the north side of large, vertical

stones.

Whatever be the size of the rockery it will be worth while to pay
particular attention to the provision of fertile soil. Good, fibrous

loam is the best, for it will grow the
great majority of Alpine plants suc-
cessfully. Fibrous loam is the under
part of turf which has been stacked
until the grass has decayed. It is not
always easy to get turf at a reasonable
cost — say, threepence per square yard —
but the rockery-builder should always
look about him, and try to procure it.
He ought, indeed, to begin his foraging
some months before he wants to com-
mence his rockery, because then he can
stack the turf in a heap, grass side downwards, preferably with
decayed manure, or leaves, between the layers, near the site of
his rockery, and so be sure of an adequate supply of suitable
material when the time comes to begin. If he does not do this
he must do one of two things when he commences his rockery —
either use the ordinary soil of the garden, or buy the necessary
supply of special material. It is not often that the former can be
spared in quantity, or that it would be good enough if it could.
And as regards buying what is required, it is a somewhat expen-
sive undertaking, and needs circumspection. The buyer should
see a sample before he parts with his money, and satisfy himself
that the soil is friable, and contains plenty of fibre. The soil

ROCKERY EDGINGS TO PATHS
A, path ; B, B, rockeries ; C, C, borders

ROCKERY PLANTS

133

question, equally with the stone question, must be taken into
consideration in connection with the formation of a rockery, and
provides a further reason for careful preliminary consideration.

We have said that rock plants are extremely beautiful. They
are, of course, low-growing for the most part. It is permissible
to plant a few tall things in a rock garden, but the great majority
must be dwarf. For this reason nothing need be said about height
in the following jottings about rock plants, although it is so
important in connection with border flowers. Care must be taken
to provide for plenty of spreading carpeters that will cover the
face of stones and clothe them with bloom, such as perennial
Candytufts (Iberis), Aubrietias, Yellow Alyssum, and Arabis. It
is also desirable to provide for as long a period of bloom as pos-
sible, and it will help the planter if we class the plants we pro-
pose to recommend in four distinct flowering seasons, beginning
with spring.

SPRING-BLOOMING PLANTS

The largest proportion of the rock plants flower in spring, and
consequently we shall have no difficulty in making a selection.
We will give the colours of the flowers in each case, and put the
figure (i) against a few plants which, being both good and
cheap, will particularly suit growers of limited means.

Adonis vernalis. — A charming plant with
yellow flowers.

(i) Alyssum saxatile compactum. — A spread-
ing grower, with yellow flowers, that
will speedily cover a wide area. It
comes readily from seed sown in June,
and is a very inexpensive and beau-
tiful plant.

(i) Anemones. — Several of this beautiful
genus are desirable, notably nemorosa
Robinsoniana, a charming blue; and
Pulsatilla, the Pasque-flower, violet;

Blanda, blue ; apennina, blue ; fulgens,
scarlet ; and other dwarf Anemones are
also well worth including.

Antennaria tomentosa. — The beauty of this
plant lies in its silvery foliage, which
spreads into a broad carpet of white.

(i) Arabis (Rock Cress). — One of the indis-
pensables. Experienced rock gardeners
may feel no interest in it, as it is so
abundant as to be almost as common
as Zonal " Geraniums," but beginners,
and those who have to garden econo-

134

BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

mically, must include it. The single
is easily raised from seed sown in
June, and the double may be propa-
gated by cuttings. The former spreads
the faster; the latter is the prettier as
a flower.

(i) Arnebia echioides (Prophet Flower}.— A
distinct and charming plant ; the pre-
vailing colour is yellow, but the flowers
have dark dots when young.

(i) Aubrietias. — As valuable as Arabises,
coming from seed as readily and as
cheaply, flowering as profusely, and
having brighter colours. Every rock
garden must contain some of these
beautiful carpeters, notably Campbelli,
violet, and Leichtlinii, rose. If the
seed catalogue that is consulted does
not name these, but includes graeca
or purpurea, buy either of these for
raising plants in quantity, and procure
a few plants of the others at the first
opportunity.

(i) Cerastiums. — Like the Antennaria, these
are used for their silvery foliage.
There are two species, Biebersteinii
and tomentosum, both of which are
procurable quite cheaply from several
seedsmen. They are of low growth
and spread freely, even in soil that is
not of the best.

(i) Crocuses. — Every flower gardener is
familiar with the early Dutch Crocuses,
particularly the yellow, which he buys
from bulb-dealers in autumn. A few
of these may be planted on the rockery
if desired, but there is more interest
in the species, such as the orange
aureus, the white biflorus, the purple
imperati, and the lilac Sieberi. It is
not every bulb-dealer who offers these,
but they are not difficult to get.

(i) Cyclamens.— -The hardy Cyclamens, such
as coum, rose ; hederaefolium, purple ;
and europaeum, red; are dainty little
flowers, which come in autumn,

winter, and spring. They make a
charming picture at Kew in associa-
tion with Snowdrops. Corms are pro-
curable from bulb-merchants at no
great cost.

(i) Dianthuses (Pinks'). — One of the most
valuable of all the many genera of
rock plants, these lovely sisters of
the Carnation, the Pink and the Sweet
William are distinguished by brilliant,
sparkling colours, and great abund-
ance of bloom. The Alpine Pink
(alpinus), rose, and the Cheddar Pink
(caesius), rose, are two of the most
beautiful species, and they are not
at all expensive.

Dodecatheon (American Cowslip}. — An in-
teresting and uncommon looking plant,
with lilac flowers. The bulb-dealer
will supply it in autumn at a very
moderate rate.

Erinus alpinus, — A useful plant with violet
flowers.

Erythronium (Dog's-tooth Violet}. — A very
pretty and distinct plant, almost equally
admired for its flowers and its leaves.
The latter are quaintly marbled. There
are several different sorts, and dens-
canis, rose; giganteum, white; and
grandiflorum, yellow ; mayall be grown.
The first can be bought from almost
any bulb-dealer in autumn, and is a
cheap plant; the others are in fewer
hands, and may be a little more expen-
sive.

Gentians. — These give us that scarce colour
— pure, deep blue. Acaulis is the finest.
It has large flowers full of rich colour.
Verna is also very pretty.

( i) Hepaticas. — These are really Anemones,
and their full, correct name is Anemone
Hepatica, but they are grown in nearly
all gardens, and included in most bulb
lists, simply as Hepaticas. They are
delightful plants, blooming very early
in the year, and in great profusion.

ROCKERY PLANTS

135

Some are single, others double. There
are blue, red, and white varieties.
They are easy enough to grow, but they
are not suitable for sunny rockeries,
as they love coolness and shade.

(i) Iberis (Candytufts). — Indispensable
plants, in spite of the fact that they
possess no range of colours, the flowers
being white. They are dwarf, spread
rapidly, and bloom in great profusion.
The best species are corifolia, gibraltar-
ica, and sempervirens, one or more of
which can be obtained from seedsmen,
and sown early in June.

(i) Irises. — The large and magnificent Iris
genus has been dealt with somewhat
fully in connection with herbaceous
plants, but attention must be called
to the fact that several species are
admirable plants for the rockery, no-
tably iberica, lilac and white ; pumila,
lilac and white; reticulata, violet and
yellow; and sisyrinchium, lilac and
yellow. These can be obtained from
bulb-merchants in autumn.

Leontopodium alpinum. — This is the Edel-
weiss, over which youthful misses
once grew sentimental, in the days
before they had taken to golf and
hockey. It has silvery foliage and
flowers. It is easy to grow, spreads
fairly freely, and as it is decidedly
distinct in appearance it may be in-
cluded.

Linum (Flax). — This genus contains several
beautiful plants, of which alpinum,
blue, is one of the most useful for the
rockery.

(i) Myosotis (Forget-me-not}. — Delightful
old favourites, which have been re-
ferred to under Herbaceous Flowers.

(i) Narcissi. — Some of the small Narcissi
are exquisite little rockery flowers,
notably the Cyclamen-flowered (cycla-
mineus), the Angel's Tears (triandrus)
and its white variety, and the charm-

ing trumpet Daffodil called Johnstoni
Queen of Spain. All of these can
be purchased quite cheaply from bulb-
dealers in autumn, and will be very
cheerful in spring.

Omphalodes verna. — This is a pretty,
Forget-me-not-like plant, with bright
blue flowers, propagated by division.

Orobus vernus. — Another useful little flower,
propagated by division.

Oxalis floribunda. — A species of Oxalis
is often sold as Shamrock, but the
present is a large form, and would
hardly pass muster, apart from the
colour of its flowers, which is rose.
It is a free-blooming plant, propagated
by seed or division.

Phloxes. — One of the most valuable genera,
because the plants grow freely, bear
abundance of brilliant flowers, and
are easily propagated by seed or
division. What is called the "subu-
lata " section is the most useful. The
type plant is white, but its varieties
frondosa and Vivid are rose, and
Newry Seedling is lilac. They are
all worth growing. Frondosa is one
of the cheapest and most popular.
Another charming Phlox is divari-
cata, which has lilac flowers, but it is
taller than the subulata group. Ovata,
red, and reptans, violet, are also
valuable.

(i) Primulas (Primroses). — The coloured
Primroses and Polyanthuses, to which
we referred under Herbaceous Flowers,
may be used on rockeries, and so
may several distinct species. Rosea,
rose-coloured, is a brilliant gem, but
it will not thrive in a hot, dry place;
it must have a moist, cool spot.
Marginata, violet; and scotica, purple,
with yellow eye; are two charming
species. Seeds of several of the
Primulas are procurable, and may be
sown in fine, moist soil, preferably

136

BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

in a box in a frame or greenhouse,
but failing that out of doors in early
summer. Or they may be propagated
by division.

(i) Saxifragas.— The "Rockfoils" are a
large and very important genus of
rockery plants— indeed, many would
consider them the most important of
all. They vary considerably in height
and habit, some being quite moss-like,
and others having tall flower stems.
Oppositifolia major, purple, may be
taken as an example of the former ;
and cordifolia pyramidalis, red, of
the latter. There are many spring-

flowering Saxifragas besides these,
and three of the best of them are
aizoon, cream; granulata, white; and
Wallacei, white. The latter is a
charming little rock gem, bearing its
pretty flowers in great profusion.
The Saxifragas are propagated by
division in autumn.

Triteleia uniflora. — A quaint lilac flower,
procurable from bulb-merchants in
autumn.

Veronica chamaedrys. — This member of a
greatly varying genus, which includes
many large shrubs, is suitable for the
rockery. It has blue flowers.

SUMMER-FLOWERING PLANTS

Several of the genera that we have already considered give us
summer-flowering species, and in addition there are many others.

( i ) A rmeria cephalotes. — Most people know
this beautiful, grassy-leaved, bright-
flowered edging plant. There are few
prettier, whatever their cost, and it is
as well worthy of being introduced to
the rockery as if it had never graced
a cottager's flower border. Propa-
gated by division.

Aster (Michaelmas Daisy). — There is one
species of this splendid genus which
is suitable for the rockery, and that
is the purple-flowered alpinus; the
majority are too large. It is a very
pretty Daisy, and may be increased
by division in spring.

(i) Campanulas (Harebells). — This is an-
other of the great rockery genera, and
the flower gardener will find it almost as
valuable as the Pinks, Phloxes, Andro-
saces, and Saxifragas, in spite of (or
perhaps because of) the fact that the
species are mostly blue in colour.
One or two, such as carpathica and

(i) Androsaces. — These are extremely popu-
lar with lovers of rock plants, on
account of their brilliant colours and
charming flowers. They are particu-
larly dainty and pleasing, both in
growth and bloom, and must be re-
garded as among the choicest of our
rockery gems. Perhaps carnea, rose-
coloured, is the best known, but
lanuginosa and villosa, which are of
much the same colour, run it closely.
The Androsaces are worthy of a little
special attention, and should be given
selected positions and good soil. They
can be increased by division in autumn
or winter, and also by seeds sown in
spring.

Arenaria (Sandworf). — This white-flowered
plant is not one of the highest class,
but it is useful, because it will thrive
in light, dry soil, which does not suit
many of the choicer Alpines. Pro-
pagated by division.

SWEET PEAS
By Beatrice Parsons

ROCKERY PLANTS

137

its white variety, are sold by almost
every seedsman, and can be raised
in quantity at a very low cost.
Others, such as garganica, pulla,
and Raineri, all of which are of
some shade of blue, can be propa-
gated by seeds or division in spring.
They are free-flowering plants of
charming habit, and look well among
stones.

Convolvulus. — The species mauritanicus,
blue with white centre, is a pretty
plant, and can be raised from seed
** in spring or early summer.

Coronilla varia. — This charming rosy trailer
is worth including in a fairly large
rockery, although not of the first
importance.

Cyclamen. — The species europaeum, men-
tioned in the spring section, may
bloom in summer.

Cypripediums (Ladies' Slippers). — These
lovely Orchids are well adapted for
cool, moist, shady positions at the
base of rockeries, but they will not
thrive in hot, dry spots. There are
two well-known species, namely, cal-
ceolus, red and yellow; and specta-
bile, rose and white. The latter is
a truly beautiful plant. Both thrive
in moist peat. Propagated by divi-
sion.

(i) Dianthuses. — The Alpine Pinks are not
limited to spring-flowering species, for-
tunately. Several of the most beau-
tiful of them are summer bloomers,
and among these may be mentioned
deltoides (the Maiden Pink), neglectus,
and superbus, all with rose-coloured
flowers. They are very brilliant.
Seed of most of the Dianthuses
can be obtained from seedsmen who
specialise in hardy flowers, and may
be sown in spring or early summer.

Geraniums. — One or two of the hardy
Geraniums, or Crane's-bills, can be

(2,299)

grown on the rockery if capacious
pockets have to be filled, but they
should be kept under surveillance
or they will overrun smaller, weaker,
and perhaps more valued neighbours.
Lancastriense, rose, is one of the
best; it blooms with great profusion,
and is bright and vigorous. Propa-
gation may be effected by division.

(i) Helianthemums (Sun Roses). — These are
real friends to the rock gardener who
cannot afford choice and expensive
plants, for they are very cheap, spread
freely, and are brilliant in colour.
They form very bright and glowing
patches when in full bloom. Pro-
pagation is by seed or division in
spring.

Linaria alpina (Alpine Toadflax] — A pretty
plant, with violet and yellow flowers.
Propagated by division.

(i) Lithospermum prostratum. — One of the
most valuable plants, on account of
its profuse blooming and deep blue
flowers. Propagated by division.

(i) Poppies. — The Iceland Poppies (Papaver
nudicaule and its varieties), referred
to under Herbaceous Plants, may be
pressed into service for the rockery.
They are bright and free-flowering.

(i) Primulas. — Several of the hardy Prim-
roses, notably farinosa, with lilac
flowers, and viscosa, purple with
white centre, bloom in summer, and
are charming for the rockery. Pro-
pagated by seeds or division in
spring.

(i) Saxifragas. — Several of the best
species, among which hypnoides and
longifolia, both with white flowers,
are prominent, are summer bloomers.
Propagated by division.

(i) Sedums (Stonecrops}. — These low-grow-
ing, dense, free-blooming plants are
great favourites with rock gardeners,
and justly so, for they are both

10

138

BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

attractive and inexpensive. Acre,
yellow, glaucum, pink, and lydium,
pink, are all well worth including.
Propagation is by seed or division,
(i) Sempervivums (Houseleeks). — Useful low
evergreens, equally attractive for their
leaves and flowers. They are very
distinct and interesting plants. There
is a large number of species, and a
collection may be formed by those
who develop an interest in them
after starting with one or two of
the best, such as arachnoideum and

tectorum, both with red flowers. Pro-
pagation is by division.

(i) Silene (Catchfly). — Charming little
plants, which grow almost anywhere,
flower freely, and have very bright
colours. Maritima, white, and Schafta,
rose, are special favourites. Propa-
gation is by seed or division in spring.

Thyme. — The woolly Thyme (Thymus
lanuginosus) is worth mentioning.

Veronicas. — The two blue species, teucrium
and rupestris, should be selected.
They bloom very freely.

AUTUMN AND WINTER FLOWERS

Few Alpines are autumn or winter bloomers, and to get flowers
at those seasons we shall have to turn to bulbous and allied plants.

(i) Colchicum (Meadow Saffron]. — That
cheerful, Crocus-like plant, Colchicum
autumnale, should be grown in quan-
tity, for it costs little, and makes a
very bright break of bloom in the
autumn. The purple flowers are
borne before the leaves. Bulb-mer-
chants supply it.

(i) Crocuses. — Several of the most beautiful
species of this popular flower bloom
in the autumn, and the following,
which the larger bulb-merchants will
supply, might be procured: iridiflorus,
blue ; longiflorus, lilac ; speciosus,
purple ; and zonatus, lilac-rose. They
ought to be planted in July or
August.

( i ) Cyclamens. — Coum and europaeum, which
have been mentioned in a previous
section, will probably give flowers
in autumn and winter.

(i) Irises. — This large and valuable genus,
which has been specially dealt with
under Herbaceous Plants, includes
winter-flowering species, and fortu-
nately they are among the most beau-
tiful, notably Bakeriana, violet and
white; histrio, lilac; persica Held-
reichi, lavender and yellow ; reticulata,
violet and yellow; and Rosenbachiana,
purple and yellow. Large bulb-
dealers supply them.

(i) Snowdrops. — These graceful little
flowers love cool places, but comfort-
able homes can be found for them
on the rockery. Galanthus Elewesii
is one of the best. All the finest
Snowdrops can be bought from bulb-
dealers, most of them very cheaply.

Sternbergia lutea. — A charming dwarf
plant, with lemon-coloured flowers,
which bulb-dealers supply.

GREENHOUSE, CONSERVATORY, AND
<- u HOTHOUSE FLOWERS

LOVERS of flowers who have learned how much their favourites
add to the charm of a home, when cut and arranged by skilful
fingers in bowls and dainty vases, feel a great blank when winter
comes and cuts off the supply of bright and fragrant blossoms.
The rooms seem empty and bare, the furniture does not show up
so well as it used to do, and the dinner-table looks dull in spite of
snowy napery. What can be done? Buy? Yes, if near suitable
shops or markets. Flowers are cheap enough now, in all con-
science, and the market men take care to maintain a beautiful
and varied supply. But those who live in the country find cut
flowers very difficult to procure, although coals and bacon may be
abundant enough. Besides, the bought flower is never quite the
same as the home-grown one. An independent observer might be
cruel enough to say that it differed inasmuch as it was better, but
that suggestion we put out of court at once. It is not better —
it is not half so good — to us, and that is the consideration which
really counts.

It is out of this craving for home-grown winter flowers that a
desire for glass-houses grows up. In the midst of our gloom
and sorrow we suddenly see a ray of light. Winter and spring
flowers ? Of course. We can have them in abundance, and of our
own growing. It is merely a question of spending a few pounds
with a horticultural builder, and a few shillings with a purveyor
of flower-pots. We ponder this idea, and it grows on us. The
more we think of it the better we like it. We see a fair vision of
floral charm when we make up a cheerful fire, draw the curtains,

139

140 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

and sit down to the evening meal. Pretty, graceful blossoms nod
cheerfully at us across the table. Delicate scents please and soothe
our senses. And no longer are our drawing-room vases empty,
or decorated with nothing better than a few grasses and berries.
They are full of exquisite, perfumed flowers.

Presently another consideration comes. Are there not many
plants which we love that we have had to do without, because
they are not hardy — Cinerarias, for example, and Cyclamens, and
scented Freesias, and Orchids, and Gloxinias, and florists' Fuchsias,
and Musk, and Gardenia, and Stephanotis, and Eucharis? These
and many other beautiful plants we have foregone, because they
do not thrive out of doors. Given glass, we can grow them all.

Perhaps there is a conservatory attached to the house — one of
those awkward, lofty, stageless, draughty, damp places which are so
tempting to the inexperienced gardener, but which prove to be so
unsatisfactory as practical plant-houses. The reader knows that
conservatory. If he has not one attached to his own house, he
has seen one in association with a house that he visits. There are
many things that it does. It sometimes plays a very useful part
as an extra room in summer, and a general store in winter ; but
it is often a general muddle. There is one thing which it never
does, and that is to grow decent plants. It cannot do so because
it is not built that way. Suppose, however, that the owner takes
a new view of it? Then he does not attempt to raise plants in
a house which is totally unsuited for the purpose; but he puts
up another house to produce the material in, and when it is in
perfection he displays it in tasteful ways in his hitherto unsatis-
factory house. As a show-house the conservatory proves to be
a great success, and it is particularly pleasing and delightful in
late winter and early spring — a period during which, in its old
days, it was a hopeless and melancholy jumble.

In almost every household there is a member not quite so
vigorous as the rest. Perhaps it is a lame or delicate girl, who is

GREENHOUSE AND HOTHOUSE FLOWERS 141

not active enough to chase a hockey ball up and down a field,
and give and receive resounding ankle thumps. Perhaps it is an
elderly valetudinarian of either sex, who finds digging, mowing, and
other phases of outdoor gardening too hard work. This member
will find most of the work of a glass-house — sowing seeds, striking
cuttings, potting and watering — well within the compass of his or
her powers. Pleasure and benefit will be derived from these light
and interesting occupations. They will be found to constitute both
a healthful occupation and a delightful hobby.

All these points may be honestly adduced in favour of glass-
houses, and another may be added, of which those familiar with the
vagaries of our climate will readily admit the force — they permit
of gardening (using the word in its broad sense) when the weather
is unfavourable for outdoor work.

To sum up, there are overwhelming advantages in the possession
of what the professional gardener speaks of collectively as "glass,"
and as (to quote once more Cowper's oft-quoted words) —

"Who loves a garden loves a greenhouse too,"

we may consider that our present case is proved, and set about
getting estimates without a moment's delay.

We will not, however, make haste too quickly. We will be
prudent, and consider the matter in all its bearings. First of all,
we will make sure of how much we can afford to spend. In this
connection we will not overlook the fact that the mere price of a
house does not cover the whole of the capital expenditure. There is
the heating to allow for, and that may be expected to add a third to
the cost of the structure — more or less according as the house is to
be cool, intermediate, or hot. Is it absolutely necessary, one may
ask, that a glass-house should be heated? No, it is not indis-
pensable, but it is a great advantage, especially if winter bloom is
wanted. We are well aware of the importance of the heating
question, inasmuch as artificial heat involves a continuous expendi-

142 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

ture for fuel, and thus the matter cannot be settled on the mere
basis of so much capital expenditure, any more than the cost of a
motor-car can be calculated exclusively on the amount of purchase
money. But the fact remains that without the provision for heating
the special advantages of glass are greatly reduced.

A second matter that shall have our consideration is whether
we will be satisfied with a house or houses for plants alone, or
whether, when we are building, we will establish a fruit-house as
well. It is important to settle this point at the outset, because
two houses can be heated from the same boiler as well as one,
provided the latter is of sufficient power. Time available for
managing the houses, and suitability of site, are other points
demanding consideration, and although they are secondary ones,
they should not be overlooked.

Cost of Glass-houses. — The cost of building and heating glass-
houses, and the choice of site, may well receive a little special
consideration. When we have disposed of them we can proceed
to the selection and cultivation of the best plants with a clear
conscience. While the cost of glass depends to some extent upon
its area, it does not turn upon that alone. There are degrees
of solidity in the framework of horticultural buildings, just as
there are in vehicles. There are differences in design, degrees of
detail, greater or less ornament, elaboration, " finish." There are
different qualities of glass, different systems of ventilation, different
methods of glazing. The intending purchaser may find that he
can buy a greenhouse ten feet long by eight feet wide for ^5,
and be astonished to find, when he goes to a firm that deals
principally in larger houses, that instead of asking £10 for a house
twenty feet by sixteen they ask £20 or more. In the matter of
glass-houses in private gardens it is not the rule that the pro-
portionate cost decreases with greater size ; it generally increases.

The explanation of the cheapness of small greenhouses is that,
as they are in great demand, the timber for them can be cut up

GREENHOUSE AND HOTHOUSE FLOWERS 143

into certain lengths by machinery and the houses put together
with so many screws, by men who do nothing else, in a given
time. The amount of skilled manual labour put into them is
very small. It is on all fours with the making of cheap bicycles
and cheap books, for which special machinery is devised. It is
certainly the fact that greenhouses can be bought at a cost of
about ten shillings per foot run, and further, that these houses
are quite capable of sheltering plants ; but the purchaser does not
get either a substantial or an elaborately finished article. It is
severely plain and practical. It is a glass-house corresponding
with the long streets of small, five-roomed terrace houses which
spring up in all our large industrial towns, with the exception of
those in which the tenement or flat system is in vogue. It is
scarcely necessary to say that the home builder cannot build
cheaper than he can buy while such rates as rule now are in force.
He may be able to build better if he is a skilled mechanic, but
that is all. Unless he has considerable mechanical knowledge he
will be well advised to leave home building alone, for it will
probably cost a great deal more than buying a finished house, and
be no better.

The machine-made cheap greenhouse is built in sections, which
are sent out under numbers, so that they can be easily and quickly
put together by any one who knows how to twist a screw-driver
round. The frames are generally sent unglazed, to avoid risk of
injury in transit, and the requisite amount of glass, cut to fit, is
forwarded separately. It is called a "tenant-right" structure, but
it loses that character if it is nailed to a wall, or attached to
mortared brickwork. If attached to a wall (when such attach-
ment is necessary) by screws, and mounted on unmortared bricks,
it is removable at will, but not otherwise.

There must not be a great deal of brickwork employed, or the
ten shillings per foot rate will be speedily exceeded, and there
need not be. One layer of loose bricks, resting on a firm, level

144 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

base, will be enough. The wall plates will form a part of the
ends and sides, which the dealer sends in sections. Practically
the whole of the house will be of wood and glass. It will pro-
bably be provided with two top ventilators, if a span-roof,— one on

each side.

It is not desirable to buy a house smaller than ten feet by
eight. A smaller structure becomes too much of a box. A width
of eight feet in a span-roof house permits of two side stages each
three feet wide. This is making the most of the space available,
and gives quite a respectable area. But a somewhat larger house is
desirable, because it permits of a division into two compartments,
one of which (the side near the boiler) can have more piping than
the other, and so serve as a warm house, while its twin is kept
as a cool one.

In view of the fact that things are being cut very fine to get
within the ten shillings per foot limit, it may be asked what a really
substantial, well-built house, with some pretensions to style about
it, would cost per foot run, including the heating. The reply
is, anything from £2 to £4 ; but the former rate would insure a
very good house. A lean-to — that is, a house supported by a
wall — might be expected to cost a little less than a span-roof, but
not, of course, if a wall has to be built to support it.

In view of the great difference in the cost of plant-houses, it
behoves the purchaser to get estimates from two or three different
firms, and, having compared the amounts, to endeavour to compare
the classes of work done by the firms also.

Fitting Houses. — It may be taken as an axiom that a very lofty
house is not a good one in which to grow plants. Such a house
would be right enough if a high stage, built in tiers to correspond
with the pitch of the roof, were constructed to fit it. But high, tier
stages in lofty houses are not convenient for working, and are falling
out of use. Flat stages are much more manageable. They have the
disadvantage, in a house with a very sharp pitch, that the plants

SWEET PEAS
By E. Fortescue Brickdale

ul-

,3

GREENHOUSE AND HOTHOUSE FLOWERS 145

on the front of the stage are a long way from the glass ; but it is
not in the least necessary to build a sharp-pitched house, and it is
rarely done nowadays. A roof with a gentle slope fits in well with
a flat stage. The varying heights of the different plants grown
will insure informality; if not, a few can be raised here and there
on small blocks, or on empty, inverted flower-pots.

A glass-house should always be fitted with shelves. There
should be two, one on each side of the central ridge board, and they
should be as broad as the pitch of the

n

roof will permit. The great value of

these adjuncts will be manifest when

plants are being raised. Seedlings and

rooted cuttings — in fact, all plants in

their early stages — are better on a shelf

close to the glass than on a stage several

feet away from it, because they escape

becoming "drawn" — a gardener's phrase,

descriptive of the elongation, accompanied

by attenuation, which ensues when a

plant a long way from the external light

endeavours to stretch up to it. This

" drawing " of plants is responsible for

numerous failures. It is invariably

accompanied by thin, weak stems and small, almost substanceless

leaves, the natural succession of which is poor flowering.

The question may arise as to whether a portion of the sides,

as well as the roof, should be of glass ; or whether woodwork

should come quite up to the eaves. The former is preferable in the
ase of fairly large houses, but in those of the smallest size — say,
nose not exceeding four feet to the eaves — side glass need not be

considered. Where side sashes are used it is wise to have one of

them hinged to serve as an extra ventilator : it will be very

useful in hot summer weather.

TRAINING PLANTS ON PILLARS

A, border ; B, climbing plants ; C, pillar
of greenhouse ; D, cross-beam support-
ing rafters of greenhouse.

146 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

Temperatures.— Those to whom a glass-house is a glass-house,
and nothing else, are sometimes bewildered when they hear
different names applied to glass structures. To many every kind
of glass-house is a greenhouse ; but to horticulturists a glass-house
is only a greenhouse when a certain degree of temperature is
maintained in it. With further degrees of heat it becomes an
"intermediate" house, or a "stove." The latter term is particu-
larly confusing. Most people think of a heating apparatus when
the word "stove" is used, but not so the gardener; his "stove"
is a hothouse.

What degree of heat constitutes a "greenhouse," what an
"intermediate" house, and what a "stove"? A glass-house (other
than a conservatory) would be called a greenhouse if unheated, or
if not heated beyond an average of 45 degrees in winter ; it would
be considered an intermediate house if the temperature averaged
55 degrees in winter, and a stove if it averaged 65 degrees. It is
to be hoped that the use of the word " average " will not mislead
the reader. A temperature of 45 degrees at one period of the
day, and of 85 degrees at another, would give an average of 65
degrees, but it would subject the plants to alternatives of temperature
which would be likely to prove detrimental to them ; and it may
therefore be well to state that the minimum winter temperature
for the three types of house may be 40 degrees, 50 degrees, and
60 degrees respectively. It is only the winter temperatures that
can be used to afford a comparison, because in summer the
temperature of every glass-house goes up to a high figure; in
fact, the difficulty is to keep it down, and shading, as well as
ventilating, has to be resorted to, even in a house that has no
artificial heat whatever.

The conservatory does not change its name, as ordinary glass-
houses do, with the degree of heat maintained in it ; it is always
a conservatory, and nothing but a conservatory. It is obvious,
however, that if it is to do full service in winter it must be

GREENHOUSE AND HOTHOUSE FLOWERS 147

heated. To transfer plants from a heated house to an unheated
conservatory in severe winter weather would be to ruin them.

Frames and Pits. — We see that a greenhouse, or a glass-house
of some description, is a valuable — indeed almost an indispensable —
adjunct, to a conservatory ; let us now add that a frame is an equally
useful supplement to a greenhouse. A frame is quite a low struc-
ture. The back is only raised above the front sufficiently to carry
off the water. It is consequently a structure in which the plants
are close to the glass, where they cannot become "drawn." It can
be moved about, as occasion requires, from one part of the garden
to another. It can be raised on to a hotbed of manure, and so be
made to serve as a propagator. One of the greatest conveniences
of a frame is that, without the hotbed, it serves as a half-way house
for tender plants which are to spend part of their time in the green-
house and part in the garden. Chrysanthemums are one popular
example, and Tomatoes another. The young plants undergo in
the frame the process of what gardeners term " harden ing-off." If
transferred direct from a warm house to the open garden (and the
temptation to effect such a transference is very strong when the
greenhouse is getting crowded and the weather is warm) failure
sometimes ensues, because a sudden change of weather subjects
them to a strain for which they are not prepared. The frame
" tempers the wind to the shorn lamb." A clever gardener will
make great use of a frame. He will use it for raising plants late
in winter, or for hardening them in spring ; he will perhaps grow
Cucumbers or Melons in it in summer ; and he may use it for
Violets in autumn and winter. The cost of a frame is not great ;
a very nice one can be bought for twenty-five shillings ; and it is
only fair to consider that in connection with the cost of the house.
If there is a sum of £20 available for glass, it will be better to
spend ^15 on a house and ^5 on frames than the whole of the
money on a house without frames.

A pit is a kind of half-way stage between a frame and a green-

148 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

house. You can call it a glorified frame or an abbreviated green-
house, whichever way you like to look at it. It is generally con-
structed partly of bricks, on a few courses of which a low frame is
fixed, with sliding lights. Such a structure is often established
under a greenhouse, running the entire length of it. Its uses corre-
spond to those of a frame. It generally has the advantage of being
a little more roomy, but the disadvantage of not being movable.
Sometimes, however, a pit becomes much more than a large fixed
frame ; it becomes neither more nor less than a small sunk stove.
Hothouses below the ground level are generally spoken of as " pits"
in gardens. They are serviceable for special purposes, such as the
cultivation of Cucumbers and ferns, but not for all-round use in
growing flowering plants ; and amateurs need not trouble about
this class of structure.

Glazing. — It is wise to use 2i-ounce in preference to i6-ounce
glass for all kinds of glass structures, as the greater cost is not
excessive. Top putty should be avoided. The squares should be
bedded in putty, and then fastened in with small sprigs.

Heating. — When we come to consider plants for glass structures
of different classes we see that it is possible to find some pretty
flowers that will thrive without artificial heat, but only where ex-
pense is a great consideration, or time for attending to a heating
apparatus very limited, should a house be left unheated. Want
of heat limits the owner severely. He may be without flowers for
several consecutive weeks if the winter should prove to be a severe
one, and he cannot command a supply at any particular period.
Moreover, there are many beautiful plants which he cannot attempt
to grow at all. Heat the house, therefore, if it can possibly be done.

Large houses are heated in almost every case by a hot-water
apparatus, consisting of a boiler and pipes. Boilers differ consider-
ably, but pipes very little. The boiler may be an upright or a hori-
zontal one ; it may be plain or tubular. The pipes will be of cast
iron, and will be four inches in diameter. An upright boiler let

GREENHOUSE AND HOTHOUSE FLOWERS 149

into the wall or woodwork of the house, without a stoke-hole, may
be chosen for any structure that does not require more than seventy-
five feet run of piping. Above that figure it is desirable to con-
struct a stoke-hole, and use a horizontal boiler. There are almost
as many different kinds of boiler as there are of motor-car. Any-
one who finds a difficulty in choosing from among the various special
boilers advertised will be well advised to select a waterway-end saddle
boiler. It is a " stock " article with almost every firm of hot-water
engineers, and a good one, being powerful and easy to manage.
It is quite impossible to say what is absolutely the best of the
numerous boilers, suitable for small houses, that are advertised.
In the case of all of them success turns principally on skill and
care in stoking, and any person with a modicum of common sense
can learn to stoke.

The size of the boiler will naturally depend on the amount of
piping, and the latter upon the size and temperature of the house.
Gardeners have a simple working rule for calculating the amount
of four-inch piping necessary for the different classes of house, and
we will quote it for the benefit of inexperienced persons. It is to
divide the cubic capacity of the house by 30 for a greenhouse,
25 for an intermediate house, and 20 for a stove, taking the
result in each case as the number of feet of piping required.
The cubic capacity can, of course, be ascertained by multiplying the
length of the house by the breadth, and the product by the height.
In the case of a span roof, it is hardly fair to take the distance
from the floor to the ridge as the actual height ; it is fairer to take
the height to the eaves, and then add to it half the height from
the eaves to the ridge.

The setting of an upright boiler is not so serious a matter
that it cannot be undertaken by any handy amateur, but it is
safer to have a man down from the maker, or if the distance is
too great for that, to refer to a local builder. In the horizontal
boilers that course is essential. In any case it should be remem-

150 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

bered that the pipes must rise from the boiler to the extent of
about an inch in every eight or ten feet, in order to facilitate the
flow of the water along the return pipe back to the boiler after it
has been round the house and parted with most of its heat. The
pipes are connected in various ways, but perhaps most commonly
by means of india-rubber rings, which are fixed over the spigot
ends, and then forced into the sockets.

Coke broken small, and mixed with cinders from the house
fires, is the best fuel for small, upright boilers. It is useless to
use large coke or coal, for either will "cake," and the fire go out.
Some little study is needed to stoke successfully, particularly in
making up the fires the last thing at night, when they have to go
several hours without attention. Coke and anthracite coal are
both used extensively for large boilers.

Soil. — Most glass-house plants will thrive in a mixture of
loam, leaf-mould, and sand; and in order to avoid repetition later
on, one or two alternative composts may be given now. When we
come to deal with the individual plants we can refer to these
mixtures, or indicate a special soil if required. The following
may be taken as suitable for any plant dealt with unless a special
compost is indicated : —

No. i.

Two-thirds of fibrous loam.

One-sixth of leaf-mould.

One-sixth of decayed manure.

Mix the above well, incorporating at
the same time a quantity of sand equal
to about one-eighth of the whole, or half
a peck per bushel.

No. 2.

Three parts of fibrous loam.

One part of leaf-mould.

Add sand as before, and likewise one
thirty-second part, or a quart per bushel,
of superphosphate. The latter takes the
place of the decayed manure.

A special word may be devoted to the various ingredients of
these two composts. Fibrous loam is far the most important of
any constituent of soils for the majority of greenhouse and room
plants, and the gardener who is bent upon succeeding will not
allow himself to be put off it lightly. It really cannot be properly

GREENHOUSE AND HOTHOUSE FLOWERS 151

replaced by anything else. Some amateurs may consider that if
the soil in their garden is capable of growing good vegetables
and fruit it ought to be good enough for greenhouse flowers, and
consequently may feel free to draw upon it when potting. As to
this, two things may be said: first, garden mould rarely contains
enough fibre for sustaining pot plants, which, owing to their
circumscribed surroundings, need food in a concentrated state ;
secondly, the garden soil is needed where it is. Fibrous loam
can always be bought from a nurseryman, or dealer in garden
41 sundries," and the price may be about a shilling a bushel.
Where only a few plants are being grown this is well enough,
but where a large number are being dealt with it is more economical
to try and procure a load of turves from a builder, or from some
other person who is cutting up grass land. The turves should be
placed in a heap, reversed, so as to bring the grass side under-
neath, and left for nine or ten months, in order that the grass
may die. The heap may then be sliced down with a spade as the
soil is required for potting. The decayed fibres of turf are highly
nourishing to plants.

With respect to leaf-mould, this merely consists of rotted leaves.
When the reader treads the soft vegetable mould of a forest he
compresses beneath his feet the leaves of former years, which have
fallen and decayed. If he collects fallen leaves in autumn, and
stores them for a few months in a well-trodden heap in a pit, or
some out-of-the-way corner of the garden, they will decay, and
give him a supply of leaf-mould. He can, of course, buy it from
nurserymen and dealers, in the same way as fibrous loam, if
necessary.

As to the decayed manures, the ordinary " rotted dung " of the
kitchen gardener is not the kind of substance suitable ; what is
wanted is the dry, crumbly stuff that comes from a hotbed which
has done service for Cucumbers, or Violets, or some other crop,
and which is no more disagreeable to use than decayed leaf-mould.

152 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

No wet, greasy, offensive stuff, which will not fall into dry flakes, is
suitable for mixing in potting composts ; whatever is used should pass
readily through a coarse-meshed sieve under a little pressure from
the palms of the hands, and leave the latter practically unstained.

Superphosphate makes a fair substitute for decayed manure.
What is known to dealers as "mineral superphosphate" is a dark
grey powder ; although it has an odour of its own it is not at all
disagreeable. It is quite inexpensive. It may be supplemented
by liquid manure, used in the way to be described presently.

Potting sand should be regarded as quite distinct from silver
or sowing sand. The latter is too fine in texture to be suitable
for composts ; moreover, it is relatively dear. Sand for potting
should be in large, coarse particles. What is termed " washed
river sand" is suitable, and it can be bought from local builders
as well as from florists. Sand helps to keep a compost open and
aerated. It also probably encourages root action ; certainly it is
found to be an excellent component of mixtures for raising seed-
lings and striking cuttings. In these propagating composts the
quantities both of leaf-mould and sand may be increased, and the
decayed manure, or superphosphate as the case may be, omitted.
The proportion of loam should be considerably reduced.

Pots and Potting. — The most useful sizes of pots to buy are
those with the following inside diameter at the top : three-inch,
five-inch, eight-inch. The first size will come in for the first
potting whether the plants are raised from seeds or cuttings; the
second for the next potting, also for the first and only potting of
bulbs; the third for the repotting of such plants as need a shift
from the five-inch. The various pots are known in the trade as
sixties, forty-eights, and twenty-fours, from the number of each in
a " cast." Those who must manage with two sizes had better drop
out the five-inch and eight-inch, and substitute a six-inch (" thirty-
two"), which is a very useful all-round pot. New pots ought to
be soaked in a tub of water for a few hours, and then stood to

GREENHOUSE AND HOTHOUSE FLOWERS 153

dry, before use. The hole in the bottom should be covered with
a few pieces of broken pot, arranged so as to overlap each other,
and these again with a little moss or leaf-mould, in order to prevent
the soil from clogging it, and preventing the egress of water.

Whether for propagating, or for potting rooted plants, the soil
should always be pressed firmly into the pots. It need not be
made so hard (except in the final potting of Chrysanthemums) that
a finger cannot be forced into it, but it should certainly not be left
in a loose, spongy state. Generally speaking, a plant requires a
shift to a larger pot when its roots begin to coil round the interior,
and to protrude at the bottom. In case of doubt no possible harm
can be done by shaking a plant out of its pot for examination,
provided the soil is moist ; if dry, it might fall away and leave the
roots bare. The way to perform this little operation is to spread
the fingers of one hand over the surface of the soil, letting the stem
of the plant pass between them, turn the plant upside down, and tap
the rim of the pot steadily on some firm, fixed object until the pot
has loosened, and then to lift it off with the other hand. If there
is no larger pot available for a plant which has coiled its roots, two
inches of the top soil, and some of the side mould, may be broken
off, and fresh rammed in to take its place. This is called "top-
dressing."

Sowing Seeds and Striking Cuttings^ — The method of propaga-
tion of each particular plant to be dealt with in the notes which are
to follow will be mentioned in the references to it, but to save the
repetition of details a little attention may be devoted to them now.
In raising those glass-house plants which are propagated by means
of seed it will generally be found good practice to sow thinly in a
pan (a wide, shallow form of pot) or a shallow box, making the soil
very fine on the surface, and covering lightly. In the case of the
smallest seeds, such as Begonias and Gloxinias, it is advisable
not to attempt to cover them with soil at all, but to sprinkle them
very lightly and thinly over a surface of moist silver sand, and then

(2,299)

154 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

spread on a half-inch thickness of fresh, clean moss. Whether
covered with soil or not it is an excellent plan to place a square of
glass over the receptacle, and cover this with newspaper. This will
check evaporation, and lessen the necessity for frequent watering.
If the soil should become absolutely dry, water must be given, and
it may be poured through the moss by means of a rosed can. If
moss is not used the soil had better be moistened by immersion,
the receptacle being gently lowered into the water nearly up to the
brim, and kept there until water shows at the surface, then with-
drawn, and held over the tub until the superfluous water has ceased
to run out. These methods of watering prevent the washing out
of seeds and seedlings, which might easily happen if water was
poured on the top. While moisture must be given when really
necessary, restraint should be exercised so long as the soil is moist,
because a sodden condition is bad. When the seedlings show, moss,
glass, and paper should all be removed, as it is desirable that the
plants shall be kept sturdy by exposure to light and air. It is
from this stage that the greenhouse shelf will prove so valuable
for them. There need be no fear of the seedlings damping off if
this treatment is given. When they are about an inch high they
may be gently raised on the point of a label, and " pricked off"
three inches apart in other boxes. When they touch each other
in these boxes they will be large enough to be put singly into small
pots, and so fairly start on their career as established plants. Seed-
lings come quicker in bottom heat than without it, and consequently
it is a good plan to enclose a section of the hot-water piping with
slates ; fill it with cocoa-nut fibre refuse kept moist, and so make a
propagator of it.

In striking cuttings, the question of bottom heat in a propa-
gator, and of a close, moist atmosphere, turn somewhat on the
character of the cutting. If it is of a thin, wiry, woody nature,
such conditions are favourable ; but if it is thick, soft, and fleshy,
they are not. The great majority of cuttings strike best when

GREENHOUSE AND HOTHOUSE FLOWERS 155

the air is excluded from them, and when they have bottom heat.
They are generally best when sturdy, short-jointed, and taken
about three inches long, just below a joint. They should be
pressed in firmly, and the soil squeezed close round the base.

yentilating. — The ventilation of glass structures is of importance
at all times, but never more so than when the plants are quite
young. If they are kept sturdy, then they are almost certain to
grow up strong and healthy. They should not only be kept as
close to the glass as possible from the outset, but have free ven-
tilation, as fresh air is of the greatest moment. It should be
made a rule to open the ventilators quite early in the morning —
in fact, one may be left an inch or two up all night in summer.
If there is a cold wind blowing on one side of the house, ventilate
from the other. In the case of frames, where young plants are
perhaps being brought on, the lights should be open more or less
all day, unless the weather is very cold and boisterous, and they
should be removed altogether when it is mild and still.

Watering and Feeding. — We have already commented on the
necessity for care in watering seedlings, and we may be almost as
emphatic respecting established plants. True, one error may not
be vital, but continued mistakes or neglect will be fatal sooner or
later. The point that many amateurs cannot be brought to see is
that plants do not require water as regularly as animals need food.
These persons make the plant's water analogous with their own
bread and butter, but the parallel does not hold ; it is the soil
in the pot rather than the water which represents the analogy.
It may be admitted that moisture is essential, but a moment's
thought will show that it is not likely to be in such demand in
winter as summer, partly because the process of evaporation is much
slower, and partly because the roots are less active in drawing upon
the moisture and food store in the soil. Lady amateurs have a way
of giving their plants water summer and winter as regularly as
they give their cats milk, but this is wrong. Water should be

156 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

given when the pot rings hollow on being rapped, and never when
it sounds dull, whether it be twice a day or twice a month.

Liquid manure will never be required by seedlings or cuttings,
or by young plants which have not filled their pots with roots.
It can only be used with benefit on plants that are established in
their pots, and have pushed roots right through the soil. Even
then it should never be given in strong doses. Where the pro-
prietary powder manures are being used, they may either be
sprinkled very thinly oveY the surface of the soil twice a week
and watered in, or made into liquid manure by stirring an ounce
in a gallon of water, and using twice a week.

Insect Enemies. — The best of plant cultivators are troubled
by insect enemies, although perhaps less severely than the worst.
Green-fly (aphides) is no respecter of plants. It will work more
havoc on a weak specimen than on a strong one, but it will make
a strong one gradually weaker, and may even kill it. It attacks
almost all kinds of plants. It will fasten on Roses, Cinerarias,
and Tulips with equal gusto. Have you a Mare*chal Niel on the
wall of your conservatory? Beware lest you find, when you cut
a bunch of flowers, that the stems are covered with a dense mass
of wriggling green insects, which cause you to throw down the
cluster, on the point of raising it to your nose for a long, ecstatic
sniff, in disgust. Green-fly moves to the attack swiftly. You may
be sure one day that a particular plant is free, but you can-
not be sure that it will not be overrun three days later. The
insect increases at a tremendous rate, and unless checked in an
early stage of its attack, speedily becomes master of the situation.
And green-fly is not the only pest. Mealy-bug is another plant
enemy, more offensive even than aphides. It clothes the stems
and foliage with a filthy white mass, making them disagreeable to
handle, as well as unhealthy. It does not spread so fast as green-
fly, but it is just as dangerous, because it is much more difficult
to destroy. It has a way of insidiously attacking roof plants,

GREENHOUSE AND HOTHOUSE FLOWERS 157

which, owing to their position, are not so readily accessible as
stage plants, and are less frequently examined. For instance, it
may fasten on a Stephanotis — a plant for which it has a decided
partiality — and make that fragrant favourite absolutely loathsome.
When it gets established in a house it generally baffles all the
efforts of the cultivator to get rid of it year after year, conse-
quently his object should be to take care that it does not get a
firm footing. Red-spider is a tiny mite which forms colonies on
the under side of the leaves of many plants, and spins webs. It
is almost invisible to the naked eye, but the effect of its operations
are only too plain in the loss of substance and green in the leaves,
and in the appearance of red or bronze blotches. Thrips is a
small, quick-moving insect that may attack either the foliage or
flowers of plants. Some plants, notably Cinerarias and Marguerites,
are subject to the attacks of leaf-mining grubs, which hatch from
eggs deposited by flies between the upper and lower skins of the
leaf. Their presence may be known by the appearance of greyish
lines in the leaves.

The foregoing are the most common and troublesome of the
insects that attack indoor plants, and now for some remedies. In
the first place, we must work on the golden rule of prevention as
far as possible, because it saves time, money, and plants. Amateurs
should not take up the position that when insects appear certain
remedies must be applied ; it is better to decide that, as insects
are sure to come, preventive measures shall be adopted whether
they are seen or not. In recent years the most common means of
keeping insects down is by vaporising preparations of nicotine, which
is the poisonous principle of tobacco. The substance, and a small
appliance for vaporising and distributing it, are sold together in
handy packets, varying in size according to the size of the house
to be treated. The packets can be bought from all seedsmen and
florists, and they are not expensive. One that is extremely well
known is the "XL All." Another is West's. Beginning at the

158 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

middle of April, the cultivator might practise vaporisation once a
month until the middle of October. He may appear to be working
in the dark. He may not see any insects, and he cannot follow
all the movements of the vapour ; but he may depend upon it that
there are insects lurking in some corners or crannies, and be equally
sure that the vapour will search them out and destroy them.

Another great help in keeping down insects under glass is to
provide plenty of atmospheric moisture, and to apply it vigorously.
For example, if there are roof plants, souse them once a week with
water applied forcibly through a syringe. The water will cleanse the
plants on to which it is driven, and, falling in a heavy shower
on those on the stages below, will cleanse and freshen them also.
Mealy-bug, red-spider, and green-fly are all so seriously incom-
moded by these vigorous washings that they never get a chance to
settle down. It is a dry atmosphere, and freedom from bustling,
that gives them their chance.

Plants that are subject to the attacks of leaf-miners — indeed,
plants that are attacked by any kind of insect — may be protected
by being sprayed over every three weeks or so with a paraffin-oil and
soft soap emulsion, which may be made by boiling a pint of soft soap
in two pints of water, stirring in, after removal from the fire, half a
pint of paraffin-oil, and diluting in five gallons of water. The
mixture should be thoroughly worked up by filling a syringe from,
and emptying it into, the vessel repeatedly. It is best sprayed
lightly on the plants towards evening.

Fungoid Enemies. — There are several fungi which attack indoor
plants, but mildew is much the most common. It coats the leaves
with a grey powder, and they lose their substance and fall ; the
plant becoming thoroughly unhealthy, or even dying outright.
These fungi, and particularly mildew, are commonly the result of
faulty ventilation. They are almost certain to appear if a house is
subject to cold draughts, as is the case sometimes when the venti-
lators are opened at the side on which the wind is blowing. But

GREENHOUSE AND HOTHOUSE FLOWERS 159

they are also liable to come when the air is stagnant, and what we
should describe as "close" or "heavy." The cultivator must give
due consideration to these points, and act accordingly. Sulphur in
some form is the best remedy for mildew. It may be used in the
form of the yellow powder known as flowers of sulphur, or through
the chemical liver of sulphur, otherwise known as sulphide of potas-
sium. The latter is very cheap, and may be applied conveniently
in solution. Dissolve one ounce of the chemical and two ounces of
soft soap in five gallons of water, and spray the mixture on in as
fine a state as possible. It is best to
carry the plants outside the house for
the purpose, as the solution will stain
paint. The fungoid disease of Chrysan-
themums which is known as "rust"
may be attacked by the same means.
In the case of fungoid, as in that
of insect, attacks, success in repelling
the disease turns largely upon prompt
action.

• 1 1 ACHIMENES

Let us now proceed to consider the . * 1 1. * ^

A, compost ; B, tubercles ; C, covering soil ;

most beautiful flowers for glass-houses.
We shall find that there is no lack of
material for all classes of structure,
alphabetical order.

Acacias are charming greenhouse plants, which bloom in late
winter and in spring. They have pretty little balls of yellow
blossom borne in great profusion, and are easily grown. Armata,
dealbata, and leprosa are three good sorts.

Achimenes. — These plants might well be more extensively
grown, for both leaves and flowers are attractive. They make
splendid effects in baskets or pans, an ordinary compost being
employed.

Amaryllises (Hippeastrums), — These have been mentioned under

D, dormant tubercle ; E, tubercle grow-
ing, in fit state to transplant.

We will take them in

160 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

Bulbs. They are plgjits of the most brilliant colouring, as the
coloured plate shows, and their large, open flowers are of great
substance. They bloom in winter and spring, earlier or later
according as they are grown in a warm or cool house. Gardeners
start them into growth early, and put them in an intermediate
temperature in order to get them m flower in February, when

they are the most beautiful occupants
of the house ; but they are not really
tender plants, and an amateur with an
ordinary greenhouse would derive much
pleasure from a small collection flowering
in spring. Potting bulbs in the same
kind of soil as that recommended for
Hyacinths, he could start them naturally
into growth as his house grew warmer,
and have them in bloom in April or
May. When they went out of flower he
could gradually dry them off, rest them,
and start them again the following year.
They like abundance of water when they
are growing. They may be increased
by means of the offsets which form on

ARUM LILIES

growths appearing on rested plant, YicrOrous plants \ these VOUng gTOWths
condition for repotting. o JT j o o

may be taken off and potted.

Arum Lilies have already been considered (see Bulbous Section),
and it need only be added that they are among the most graceful
of pot plants. Blooming in winter and spring, they are very
valuable. They will thrive in an unheated house, if a newspaper
is twisted round them in severe weather, but will bloom later than
in a heated structure.

Azaleas are among the most beautiful of greenhouse flowers.
They are distinguished by great freedom of flowering, and brilliant
colours. They are in the way of being hardy plants, and in mild

FIBROUS-ROOTED BEGONIA
By A. Fairfax Muckley

GREENHOUSE AND HOTHOUSE FLOWERS 161

districts thrive out of doors; but they are not safe in the open
air in exposed places. Even if they were, it is quite certain that
they would be largely grown under glass. Their comparative
hardiness will attract the attention of the owner of an unheated
house, who will find them very useful. He can buy them fully
set with flower buds if he likes, for Belgian florists export them
to this country in immense quantities during the spring, and the
prices are low. They are generally standards — that is, plants with
a head of foliage and flowers surmounting a clear stem, so that
they are suitable for mixing with bulbs in a greenhouse. They
enjoy a peaty soil. If kept through the summer they can be
stood on a bed of ashes in a suitable corner of the garden.

Balsams are old-fashioned flowers, which have not developed
very much in modern times, the attention of florists having been
concentrated on other things, notably Begonias and Carnations.
But they are quite good enough, even as the old florists left them
to us, to be grown, and it is no small thing in their favour, from
the point of view of the amateur who has only an unheated
house, that they are annuals, can be flowered from seed in a few
weeks, and after blooming need not be preserved. The person
who wants Balsams should look up a seed catalogue in spring,
and he will probably find two or three strains of double Balsams
offered, including Camellia-flowered, and this one will suit his
purpose admirably. A packet is not likely to cost more than
sixpence, and a number of plants can be raised from it by sowing
an inch apart in fine, moist soil in a pot, pan, or box. Balsams
are among the easiest of plants to grow, and if watered when
required, and given plenty of air, they will grow up strong and
sturdy. They will develop a thick, succulent stem, on which
double flowers as large as crown pieces, and very brightly
coloured, will stud themselves closely. Short side shoots will
form on strong, healthy plants ; and these, too, will be clothed
in flowers.

162 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

Begonia. — We considered Begonias under Bulbs, so far, at
least, as the tuberous ones are concerned. But we must remember

that Begonia beauty does not begin and
end with that magnificent class. There is
another great section called the fibrous
rooted, because it does not form tubers,
and it includes a large number of species
and hybrids, not one whit inferior to the
tuberous in beauty, glorious plants though
the latter are. What Begonia, for ex-
ample— what plant of any genus, if it
comes to that — is more beautiful than that

TUBEROUS-ROOTED BEGONIAS . . .

exquisite hybrid Begonia Gloire de Lor-

A, a small tuber commencing to grow, Tl *

for boxes or pans ; B, one larger rajne > fllC white form, TUHlford Hall, Is
for small pots ; C, a strong tuber

which will bioom freely ; D, the a}so a lovely plant. Other charming kinds

tuber C potted in compost E.

are Gloire de Sceaux, Weltoniensis, and

semperflorens rosea. These fibrous-rooted Begonias have another
great recommendation in addition to their
beauty, they flower in winter and spring.
Gloire de Lorraine may be had in bloom
soon after Christmas, and be kept fresh and
cheerful — a light, fairy mass of softest rose —
for several weeks. It is frequently grown in
a wire basket, and suspended from the roof;
and perhaps it is under such conditions that it
is seen to the greatest advantage. After it has
bloomed it is gradually dried off, and cut
back to short stumps. After a short rest it is
given a little heat, the stumps are syringed,
and fresh growth starts. When the shoots
have pushed two or three inches long they
are taken off as cuttings, struck, and made into a fresh supply
of plants. Another method of propagation is to take a large,

BEGONIA GLOIRE DE
LORRAINE

A, old stems cut back ; B, young
shoots ; C, young shoots in-
serted as cuttings.

GREENHOUSE AND HOTHOUSE FLOWERS 163

matured leaf, nick the mid-rib in several places, and lay it on
the surface of a pot of soil; or (and this has been found to
answer well) to retain the leaf-stalk when the leaf is picked off
the plant, and insert it in the soil up to the base of the leaf;
making what might be called a leaf cutting. These are all
interesting methods of increasing a plant which, when it first
came out, puzzled the propagators because it did not seed, and
flowered so profusely that it was impossible to find shoots
suitable for making cuttings.

The fibrous-rooted Begonias like the temperature of an inter-
mediate house. They will thrive in the mixtures of soil previously
recommended. Most of them are easily propagated by cuttings.

Bougainvillea. — The Bougainvillea is a very vigorous plant, which
rambles freely, and produces a profusion of beautiful bracts, that are
commonly spoken of as the flowers. The real blossoms are of no
beauty, but the bracts are very gay, the colour being rosy lilac,
deepening in some forms to brilliant rose. In warm countries the
Bougainvillea will thrive out of doors, as in Algiers, where the
splendid specimen shown in the coloured plate was growing, but
in this country they are best planted out in the border of an inter-
mediate house, and trained up the roof. A number of side growths
will push from the main stems, and flower abundantly ; after bloom-
ing they can be pruned in, and a fresh crop will come the following
year. The plant does not require any special soil, and is easily
propagated by cuttings. The variety spectabilis superba is about
the best, but glabra is the more grown.

Bouvardia. — A great favourite, for not only does it produce its
pretty blooms in abundance, but they are pleasantly perfumed.
It flowers best in an intermediate house, but it may be grown in
a frame throughout the summer. Ordinary potting soil suits it —
indeed, it is quite an accommodating plant, giving very little trouble.
It may be propagated by cuttings of the stems, but bits of root
strike so freely that this method of increase is now generally

164 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

practised. Priory Beauty and Alfred Neuner are two charming
varieties of Bouvardia.

Cacti. — See separate section.

Caladium. — One often sees in groups of hothouse plants at the
exhibitions, or in the botanic gardens, bold plants with large,
shield or heart-shaped leaves, very brilliantly coloured. These are
Caladiums. It is for their foliage, and not for their flowers, that
they are grown. Except in the case of one or two species, notably
the pretty silvery leaved one called argyrites, they are not quite
suitable for small structures, as they are vigorous growers ; and
in any case they should have the temperature of a stove-house.
They are tuberous-rooted plants, like Gloxinias; and are dried
off in autumn, stored for the winter, and re-started in spring.
Large tubers, grown in the normal potting mixture, and given
a moist, warm atmosphere, will make enormous leaves. Small
tubers will form, and may be grown on by stages.

Calceolaria. — The Calceolaria of the flower garden is familiar to
all supporters of the bedding system in the form of a small, yellow,
pouch-shaped flower, growing on a low plant with roughish, soft
green leaves. The Calceolaria of the florist has the same form of
flower, but the size is immensely greater, and the colours are more
varied. The former is called the shrubby Calceolaria, because it
retains its stems throughout the year; the latter is known as the
herbaceous Calceolaria, because it dies down at the end of the
season, and springs again the following year. The shrubby Calceo-
laria is propagated by cuttings, the herbaceous by seeds. It is the
rule to dispense with old plants of both sections after flowering,
and to raise fresh every season. The cuttings of the shrubby are
inserted in October, the seeds of the herbaceous are sown at mid-
summer. The latter is far the more important section. In years
gone by the yellow Calceolaria was much in demand for "ribbon
borders," but fashion has changed, and it has lost its vogue. The
herbaceous Calceolaria is too valuable a plant for early summer

GREENHOUSE AND HOTHOUSE FLOWERS 165

blooming to be passed by. ' The young plants should be grown
in a frame during summer, and brought into the greenhouse or
conservatory in autumn, before sharp frosts set in.

Camellia. — We have in the Camellia one of the noblest of
conservatory plants. Its charm lies partly in the large, glossy
foliage, and partly in the symmetrical and beautiful flowers.
Everybody admires this magnificent shrub, and the worst criti-
cism that has ever been levelled against it is that the flowers
have a somewhat stiff and artificial appearance. This is due
to their perfect contour, great substance, and wax-like texture.
The Camellia is almost hardy, and in mild counties like Corn-
wall it lives for many years in the open air. In most parts of
the country it requires the protection of a greenhouse. It is not
always satisfactory when grown in pots in a small house, because,
although it grows healthily, it often casts its flower buds. This
does not happen, as a rule, when it is planted out in a conserva-
tory. The trouble is doubtless due to some error in watering, of
which the grower may be unconscious. Certainly great attention
to watering is needed, and while the plants must not be regularly
watered at periods when the soil is moist (which would have the
effect of rendering it sodden), it must never be allowed to remain
absolutely dry. The normal mixture of soil will do, but it is an
advantage to omit the leaf-mould and decayed manure and substi-
tute peat, which may be used in equal proportions to the loam.
Propagation may be effected by striking cuttings in summer, or
by grafting.

One of the most beautiful Camellias is the double white (alba
plena). The coloured plate shows a small plant of this growing
behind an orange Clivia in the greenhouse at Kew. These two
plants formed a charming picture in February and March 1908,
and their effect was enhanced by a plant of the charming Jasmine
(Jasminum primulinum) near. Other beautiful varieties of Camellia
are: C. M. Hovey, crimson; Donckelaari, crimson and white,

166 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

semi-double; Lady Hume's Blush, flesh; and Reine des Beautds,
rose.

Campanula.— Most of the Campanulas are purely flower garden
plants, but the blue pyramidal (C pyramidalis) and its white variety,
alba, are beautiful plants for greenhouses, conservatories, and lofty,
glass-covered porches or corridors. They are hardly suitable for
the small, amateur's greenhouse, because they may grow from five
to seven feet high. They are raised from seed sown in spring,
grown in medium-sized pots until the following spring, and then
transferred to large pots. They will flower in summer, and can
be discarded after blooming in favour of young plants.

Canna. — The brilliant Canna was referred to under Herbaceous
Plants, and its value for the flower garden was pointed out; but
we must not forget how useful it is for greenhouses and conserva-
tories also. The tubers are potted in the normal soil in spring,
and if convenient may be put into a warm house until they are
growing freely, and then transferred to the conservatory or green-
house, but this is not essential ; it is only advantageous in expe-
diting the flowering. After blooming the plants may be gradually
dried off, and the tubers stored for the winter. If increase is
desired, the tubers may be divided when they start growing in
spring. Cannas want an immense quantity of water when in
full growth, especially if growing in comparatively small pots;
liquid manure will also be of great benefit to them.

Carnation. — See separate section.

Chrysanthemum. — See separate section.

Cineraria. — The Cineraria has been one of the greatest ornaments
of greenhouses for many years past, and its popularity only grows
with time. Had there been any decline in the favour which they
enjoyed when the beautiful florists' varieties reigned supreme, it would
have been arrested when the charming Star varieties (see coloured
plate) became popularised. They came from an old kind which
had been little grown except in botanic gardens, and their graceful

GREENHOUSE AND HOTHOUSE FLOWERS 167

habit, combined with their remarkable freedom of flowering and
brilliant colours, soon made them great favourites. The Cinerarias
are fragrant as well as beautiful. Although they are not fully hardy,
they are so far from being tender that they will thrive in a frame
until autumn, and afterwards in a cool greenhouse. No indoor
plant is easier to grow. Seeds are sown towards the end of
spring, and the young plants grown in a frame through the summer,
receiving such attention in watering and potting as is called for.
The only thing likely to give trouble is green-fly, which worries
Cinerarias incessantly, and must be kept down rigorously, or it
will spoil the plants. Perhaps the most
simple plan of keeping it in subjection
is to spray the plants with a decoction
of quassia water once a week through-
out the summer. The reader should buy
a pound of quassia chips at a chemist's,
and soak a handful in a gallon of water
for a night.

Clivia (Imantopkyllum). — There is not

CINERARIAS

a great range of colouring: in the Clivia, A, drainage in pan ; B, compost ; c, surface

of sand ; D, on which the seeds are

sown ; E, sowing seeds out of a paper
funnel or spout.

the prevailing shade being orange, but
lighter and darker varieties than the
type (Clivia miniatd) have been raised, so that one may get salmon
and saffron shades if one will, and others approaching scarlet.
The plant has long, bright green, strap-shaped leaves, and bears
its flowers in a large umbel at the top of a thick, strong stem in
winter and spring. The coloured plate shows a plant associated
with a white Camellia at Kew, where it was a brilliant feature of
the greenhouse towards the close of winter. It thrives in a room.
Normal soil suits, and propagation is easily effected by division.

Coleus. — The majority of the Coleuses are grown for their
foliage, the flowers being of no value, but there is one notable
exception — the blue, winter-blooming species called thrysoideus,

168 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

which throws up tall, slender flower stems, crowned with a cluster
of pale blue blossoms, in winter, and may be had in bloom at
Christmas in a warm greenhouse. The leaf Coleuses are well
worth growing for greenhouse decoration in summer, as their
tints are very bright. They thrive in normal soil, and may be
propagated either by seed or cuttings. The young plants should
be stopped by nipping off the top when a few inches high, and
the side shoots resulting stopped again. This has the effect of
making them bushy.

Cyclamen.— There is no more beautiful greenhouse plant than
the Persian Cyclamen, which produces its lovely flowers during
winter, and may be had in bloom at Christmas. The reader
doubtless knows the plant, with its fleshy, heart-shaped, marbled
leaves standing in a thick, flattish cluster a few inches above the
soil, and its graceful flowers hung like reversed bells on succulent
stems. The coloured plate shows the plant well. In the grandi-
florum (large-flowered) class the blooms are nearly double the size
of the ordinary persicum. There is also a section with fringed
edges, that is both distinct and beautiful. The pure white variety
is one of the most valued, but a rich crimson is also very popular.
There are other colours. The Cyclamens thrive in the normal
mixture. Propagation is effected by means of seeds, which are
sown in summer and early autumn for flowering in the autumn
and winter of the following year. The plant forms a tuber,
technically called a " corm." They grow slowly in the seedling
stage, but fairly rapidly throughout the summer if abundance of
moisture is provided. They enjoy humidity in the atmosphere as
well as at the roots — indeed, without both they will progress but
slowly. The plants can be preserved for several years if required.
The old school of growers used to dry them off, but some of the
most successful modern cultivators keep them growing constantly.
Others do not preserve the plants in any state, but raise fresh
ones from seed every year. These growers do not develop such

"

COLUMBINES (Aquilegias)
By Francis G. James

GREENHOUSE AND HOTHOUSE FLOWERS 169

large specimens as those who keep old plants, but they obtain
plants of a useful size, and very large flowers.

Cytisus or Genista. — There is a plant, beloved of market men,
which forms a dense head of very small leaves and bright yellow,
fragrant flowers, and is at its best in spring. It is often sold
under the name of Genista, but is in reality a Cytisus — species
racemosus or fragrans. This is one of the most useful of green-
house plants for the amateur gardener, because it is very easy to
grow, is brilliant in colour, and retains its beauty for a consider-
able time. It may be raised from cuttings, stopped once or twice
to make it bushy, and subsequently kept several years by cutting
it back after flowering. It will grow in the normal soil.

Daffodils and Narcissi. — See Bulb section. The amateur must
not overlook the value of these beautiful hardy plants for his
greenhouse. They will do good service for unheated houses.
Popular trumpet Daffodils like Horsefieldii, obvallaris, Henry
Irving, Golden Spur, and Empress ; charming chalice-flowered
sorts such as Sir Watkin and Duchess of Westminster; and the
Poet's Narcissi, can be grown either in pots or china bowls filled
with peat-moss fibre ; and they will do splendid service in spring.

Deutzias. — The Deutzias are hardy shrubs, and are generally
kept for garden cultivation, but there is one species — gracilis —
which is cultivated almost exclusively under glass as a greenhouse
plant. It can be bought from bulb-dealers in autumn, not as a
bulb, like Hyacinths and Tulips, but as a clump of roots. It
may be potted and treated generally in the same manner as bulbs,
and it will wreathe itself in white flowers in winter, earlier or
later according to the temperature of the structure. Growers who
want early bloom, and have the necessary convenience, will force
it in a warm house. The plants can be kept from year to year
by standing them on a bed of ashes out of doors for the summer,
and pruning and repotting in autumn. Or fresh plants can be
raised by striking cuttings of the shoots.

(2,299) 12

170 BEAUTIFUL FLOWEKS

Dipladenia.—k beautiful plant for the roof of a stove, or for
training round a trellis in a pot. Different species and varieties
have rose, pink, crimson, or white flowers, large, expanded, and
showy. If grown in a warm, moist house the plant will be in
beauty for a considerable time. It likes a compost in which peat
predominates, but the latter should be stiffened up with some
loam. It can be propagated by cuttings of the young shoots
when it starts growing in spring, if bottom heat is available.

Erica (Heath). — In years gone by what were termed hard-
wooded plants enjoyed high favour, but that is hardly the case
nowadays. The Heaths (Ericas) were, and are, the most esteemed
of this class, once so important, but now ignored by the majority
of greenhouse owners. They are evergreens, and bear their
slender, eardrop-like flowers on the main stems. They are un-
questionably most graceful plants, and it is quite probable that
they would have maintained their hold on the public to this
day but for two things — their slow growth, and their extreme
impatience of over or under watering. Some nurserymen succeed
with them by growing them together in one house, and putting
them under the charge of an experienced man. Amateurs cannot
afford this luxury. If Heaths are grown at all they have to make
shift with other plants, and submit to the treatment which their
neighbours receive. Sometimes this means that they get too dry
once or twice, or are tended by one of those indiscriminating
persons who like to flood everything they grow with water twice
every day, irrespective of season and weather ; in either case the
Heaths promptly die. The normal compost does not suit Ericas.
They require peat, and nothing but sand need be added to it.
Propagation is effected by striking young shoots in summer.

Eucharis. — Eucharis amazonica or grandiflora is a stove plant
which throws up a cluster of broad, dark green, glossy leaves from
a large bulb, and bears pure white flowers on the summit of
a thick stem in winter. It is a beautiful plant, and a great
favourite with those who have a hothouse. It will thrive in the

GREENHOUSE AND HOTHOUSE FLOWERS 171

normal mixture, and may be propagated by taking the offsets
which form and growing them on. It sometimes falls into ill-
health in spite of correct heat and general treatment; when this
happens, the presence of a mite on the bulbs must be suspected.
This little enemy is accountable for a great many failures when
its presence is entirely unsuspected. The way to attack it is to
dissolve three ounces of liver of sulphur (sulphide of potassium)
in a gallon of water, and soak the bulbs in it for a quarter of an
hour, then spread them to dry and repot them.

Francoa ramosa. — Some people may know this under the name
of the Bridal Wreath — a pretty, popular term, which may be ex-
pected to attract the attention of the fair sex. The plant is well
worthy of being grown. It throws up a long, arching stem, well
furnished with charming white flowers. It is a herbaceous peren-
nial, and so nearly hardy that it will thrive out of doors in mild
districts, and may be grown in a cool greenhouse. It makes a
charming window plant. It thrives in the normal soil, and may
be propagated either by division or seeds.

Freesia. — This beautiful and fragrant flower is dealt with in the
Bulb section.

Fuchsia. — One of our old-time favourites, the popularity of
which has not diminished in any marked degree, in spite of
the rise of other flowers. Perhaps new varieties do not flow
as freely as of yore, but that is partly due to the fact that the
plant has already improved so much that further progress is diffi-
cult. We really have a very good selection of sorts from which
to make a choice, and need not crave for fresh introductions every
year, especially if we are trying to keep pace with the output of
certain flower garden plants, such as the Dahlia and Sweet Pea.
Every owner of a greenhouse likes to have a few Fuchsias,
and when they are fully grown and well bloomed he is not likely
to have many things more attractive. They are not difficult to
manage, but, as many cultivators of them know, they are apt
to cause disappointment by casting their flower buds. This is

172

BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

commonly due to mistakes in watering, and if the hints that were
given in the notes on this important subject in the early part of the
chapter are followed, it is not likely that a great deal of trouble will
ensue. Alternate stages of absolute dryness and soddenness are bad,
and a uniform degree of dampness is desirable. The normal soil
suits Fuchsias quite well. They are generally propagated by cuttings
in spring. These are taken from old plants which have been kept

in a dry state throughout the winter, which
have been pruned in spring, and which
have been syringed to insure a strong
break. The cuttings are made of the
young shoots, being taken off when about
three inches long, inserted firmly in sandy
soil, and preferably put under a handlight
or bell-glass. They are soon rooted, and
young plants thus raised are generally
more satisfactory than old ones, 3which,
however, may be grown on and flowered
if desired. The young plants would run
up tall and straggly if left to themselves,
and it is wise to stop them when £h&yi are
about six inches high, and the resulting
side shoots may be stopped in turn when

four inches long if much branched plants are wanted. The nipping-

f of the growing tip with finger and thumb suffices for stopping.

The pinched plants will be compact and bushy, will., flower freely, "

and will remain in beauty a long time if carefully Catered, and

supported with liquid manure. When they fo •frut of bloom

owards the end of summer the seed pods should be pklfed offfand

the plants gradually brought into a dormant state b/dim/nishihg

the supplies of water. They may be kept dry in a cool but frost-proof

pkce for the winter. The purchaser of a collection of Fuchsias

should get both single and double varieties, and different colours

FUCHSIAS

GREENHOUSE AND HOTHOUSE FLOWERS 173

The following are excellent sorts, providing each of these
requirements. Doubles: Champion of the World, Phenomenal,
White Phenomenal, and Miss Lucy Finnis. Singles: Beauty of
Trowbridge, Countess of Aberdeen, Lye's Excelsior, and Rose of
Castile.

Gardenia. — Everybody knows this beautiful, pure white, highly
perfumed flower, but the partiality of the plant for a warm house
debars many people from growing it. While not absolutely
fastidious, it asks for certain requirements to be met. It enjoys
a comfortable degree of heat, such as that of a stove, and abundance
of atmospheric moisture. It likes a free root run, and on this
account often does better when planted out than when kept in
a pot. At the same time, if young plants are raised every year
(a plan adopted by many successful growers in preference to
keeping old plants from year to year), they succeed admirably in
six-inch pots. While it will grow in the normal mixture, it prefers
peat tcr leaf-mould, and consequently the former may be added
to the compost instead of the latter. Lastly, it needs to be kept
quite free from mealy-bug. Cuttings made of the young shoots
strike readily in January if placed in bottom heat.

Geranium (Zonal Pelargonium}. — Once the reigning queen of
the flower garden, the cheerful Zonal has declined in favour with
a large section of garden lovers ; but even if we dispense with it
in the flower garden we need not do without it under glass. To
make an order for entire expulsion would mean depriving ourselves
of a plant that may be had in full bloom right through the dull
days of winter, and so lighten up our greenhouses and conservatories
at a. period when they might otherwise be bare. In spite of the
hard things that are said about the Zonal Geranium by flower
gardeners of the modern artistic school, it is not by any means
a plant to be condemned indiscriminately. In no plant grown do
we get a more marked persistency of flowering, and more brilliant
and varied colours. It will bloom at midwinter as readily as at

PROPAGATING ZONAL PELARGONIUMS
A, cutting prepared ; B, cuttings inserted.

174 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

midsummer if it is properly managed, and given a light, warm
greenhouse or conservatory. Those who have two or more houses

can have successions of plants if
they like, and so have flowers right
through the winter and spring. Pro-
pagation is easily effected by means
of cuttings of young growing shoots,
taken off about three inches long,
just below a joint, in April or May.
They must not be kept moist and
close, like most cuttings, or they will
damp off. Each cutting may have a
separate small pot, filled with sandy
soil made quite firm ; or several cut-
tings may be put in a large pot, in this case being inserted just

clear of each other all round the sides. When they begin to grow

they may have a small pot each, in which

they may remain until they have filled it

with roots, when they should be transferred

to five or six inch, using the normal soil, and

making it quite firm. There is no need to

keep them under glass during the summer;

they will be better in the open air, so long

as they are stood on a bed of ashes to keep

out worms, and are not forgotten in dry

weather. They may be placed under glass

towards the end of September. They will

probably begin tO throw Up flower Stems at SHOW, OR FANCY PELARGONIUMS

once— indeed, they may do so while in the A, old plant cut back, pot laid on

J J side, plant resting ; B shows

garden ; but if good winter blooming: is where old stems were cut back;

C, C, young shoots growing.

desired, these should be picked off as fast

as they show until November or December, when they may be

allowed to come into flower. They ought to be strong plants by

GREENHOUSE AND HOTHOUSE FLOWERS 175

that time, and if watered carefully and fed with liquid manure
will give splendid trusses of bloom, large in size and lustrous in
colour. When spring comes, fresh cuttings may be taken for the
next winter's display. The old plants will come in useful for
tubs or vases in the flower garden, where they may be planted
in the early part of June, and where they will do good service.

Although the Zonal Geranium is so old a flower, and novel-
ties have flowed in a steady stream for many years, there is still
a demand for them, and they come. But we already have such
beautiful material that the everyday Geranium lover can well
afford to leave novelties alone, and stick to established favourites.
Here are a few charming varieties, embracing a suitable diversity
of colours. Doubles: Colossus, crimson; Californie, orange; Rosa
Bonheur, pink ; Alsace Lorraine, magenta ; Pierre Loti, rose ;
King of Denmark, salmon ; Raspail Improved, scarlet ; and Miss
G. Ashworth and Hermione, white. Singles: Lord Rosebery,
crimson ; Sunbeam, orange ; Gertrude Pearson, pink ; Blue Peter,
magenta ; Duchess of Portland, rose ; Coleridge, salmon ; General
French, scarlet ; and Niagara and Snowstorm, white. All are
good and cheap.

Gladioli may be drawn upon for the greenhouse, as one or
two, notably Colvillei and its white variety, are suitable for early
flowering in pots. They may be treated like bulbs, such as
Hyacinths.

Gloxinia. — A magnificent tuberous plant, with large, expanded
bell-shaped flowers of the most lovely colours. It responds to
the same treatment as Begonias, being raised from seed in the
first place, and then preserved from year to year by drying off
and restarting the tubers periodically. Those who have a fair
amount of glass accommodation will probably make the most of
this splendid plant by sowing seed at different periods, and so
insuring successions. Nice flowering plants can be got in six
to eight months from the time of sowing.

176 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

Heliotrope.— -The "Cherry Pie" of our forebears is too familiar
to need any description. Its delicious perfume endears it to
every one. It is quite an easy plant to grow, and no one who
has a warm greenhouse or intermediate house need pass it by
if he wishes to have it. Many grow it out of doors during the
summer, and those who do so can propagate it by means of cut-
tings, which may be taken in September or October from growing
shoots. It also comes readily from seed, which may be sown in
spring. The normal soil suits it. To get nice, bushy plants it
is advisable to stop the shoots once or twice, as in the case of
Fuchsias. One sometimes meets with old plants of Cherry Pie
planted out in large conservatories, and covering a considerable
expanse of wall. When in full bloom they fill the house with
delicious odours, and may be cut from freely. Miss Nightingale,
White Lady, and Adele are three charming varieties which may
be increased by cuttings. Seed is procurable of the old light
blue species peruvianum, which is deliciously sweet.

Hyacinth. — See Bulb section.

Hydrangea. — A somewhat stiff and formal plant this, and
yet a popular market favourite. Its large, rounded head of pink
blossom makes it very conspicuous. The one so largely grown for
market is hortensis, and there are several varieties of it, notably
the white one called Thomas Hogg. It thrives in the normal soil.
Propagation is by cuttings, which may be taken from growing
shoots in spring, or from growths with flower buds in autumn
The former may be grown in a frame in summer, potted in August,
and kept out of doors until the end of September, when they may
be put in the greenhouse. If early bloom is wanted, they may be
subjected to gentle forcing in spring.

Jasmine. — Several of the Jasmines are flower garden plants, but
all are not hardy — in fact, one or two of the most beautiful require
a stove-house. The species gracillimum is a case in point ; this is
a beautiful white Jasmine. Grandiflorum, also white, thrives in a

GREENHOUSE AND HOTHOUSE FLOWERS 177

greenhouse, as does primulinum, cream to yellow, a charming kind,
with very large flowers, and thriving as a bush in a large pot ; a
plant so grown in the greenhouse at Kew forms a part of one of
our coloured plates. Sambac, white flowered, is a hothouse species ;
both it and its double form are popular plants. With the exception
of primulinum the Jasmines are grown as climbers. They are
frequently planted out in a bed, and trained up a pillar. They will
thrive in the normal soil, but enjoy a little peat. Propagation is
effected by cuttings, which should consist of firm young wood with
a base of older wood ; they root with the greatest certainty if kept
close under a handlight or bell-glass. To get the finest flowers
some pruning should be practised, the young shoots which have
bloomed being cut out to make way for new wood. At the
same time, it is not desirable to cut the plants as severely as
exhibition Roses ; allowance should be made for the free, graceful
growth which is so desirable.

Lapageria. — The Lapageria is one of the most beautiful of roof
plants for intermediate and cool houses. The flowers are tubular,
three to four inches long, and one to two inches across at the
mouth. The type is rose, and there is a white variety of it.
They are of great substance, and the white is quite wax-like in
its texture. The writers once had to do with a remarkable plant
that covered the roof of a long glass corridor, and bore thousands
of lovely flowers every year. The Lapageria likes a peaty rather
than a loamy soil. Propagation is by layering, but it is not often
that many plants are wanted, as one will cover a considerable
area.

Lilac. — The old Lilac of the flower garden is so sweet and
popular a flower that it is natural to feel an interest in the new
hybrid forms which come out from time to time. These are
much larger than the old favourite, and just as sweet ; moreover,
they give us quite new colours. They are so bright and fragrant,
and so well adapted for conservatory adornment, that it seems a

178 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

pity to restrict them to the flower garden. It is becoming more
and more common to lift small plants in autumn, pot them, and
gently force them into bloom. After flowering the bloom heads
are cut off and the plants put out again, or the pots are plunged
in ashes in a spare corner for the summer. The normal soil suits
them. Propagation is effected by cuttings or by grafting. Among
many beautiful varieties the following may be named: Charles X.,
lilac ; Madame Lemoine, double white ; and Rubra de Marly, red.

Lilies. — See Bulb section for notes on Liliums and Lilies of
the Valley. The Scarborough Lily (Vallota purpnred) is a brilliant
scarlet bulb, which is much esteemed for greenhouses, and is often
grown in a window. It is easily managed, thriving in the normal
soil. The best time for potting is in early summer.

Mignonette. — Our fragrant flower garden favourite must be
pressed into service as a pot plant, more especially as there are
several varieties of it admirably adapted to pot culture, notably
Miles's Spiral, Parsons' White and Machet. When Mignonette is
grown in pots as excellently as the market-growers produce it, it
is a handsome as well as a sweet flower. It is best to sow about
a dozen seeds on the surface of the soil in a six-inch pot, and thin
them to half-a-dozen of the strongest plants at about equal dis-
tances apart. This may be done at intervals of a few weeks
right through the year, in order to get a succession of bloom.
With a little attention to staking and tying, charming pots of
deliciously scented flowers can be got.

Musk. — Another fragrant favourite, easily grown from seed, and
making a very pretty object when trained on a small, neat trellis
of split laths in a pot. If one has a plant, some pieces of the root-
stock may be set an inch apart in a six-inch pot. If not, seed
may be sown in the ordinary way in spring. The Musk likes
moisture and shade.

Myrtle.— Myrtles are strong, free-growing plants, and hence
are not suitable for small greenhouses, but they are well adapted

GREENHOUSE AND HOTHOUSE FLOWERS 179

for large, airy conservatories and corridors, where they may be
grown in large pots or tubs. They are generally esteemed for
their fragrant foliage, and the white flowers are not particularly
attractive. The plants thrive in the normal mixture, and with
due attention to watering will live for many years.

Oleander (Nerium). — The Oleander is conspicuous by its large,
symmetrical, brilliant flowers. It has the reputation of being
what gardeners call a "dirty" plant — that is, it is much worried
by aphides, and some refuse to grow it on that account, but if
the course of action recommended under Insects is adopted there
ought not to be any serious trouble. It is a plant to grow for
large, airy houses, in which it may be encouraged to grow to a
considerable size. It will grow very well in the normal mixture,
but enjoys some peat in the compost. It may be increased by
cuttings.

Orange. — Small Oranges make very pretty greenhouse orna-
ments when they are grown in pots, and are well furnished with
fruit. Many people raise them from pips, and are disappointed
that they do not get fruit ; the fact is, seedlings are generally
barren, but they can be transformed into fruitful plants by uniting
to them a shoot from a plant which bears fruit. This is effected
by the process known as inarching. A slit is made in the stem
of the plant which does not bear, and a corresponding slit is
made in one of the shoots of the fruitful plant. The two parts
are brought together and bound. When they have united the
two plants are cut apart. Oranges succeed in the normal soil.

Pancratium. — Pancratium fragrans is a beautiful, sweet, white-
flowering stove bulbous plant, which blooms in summer and early
autumn. The perfume and purity combine to make it a great
favourite with owners of hothouses, and fortunately it is not
difficult to grow. With the addition of a fourth of peat, the
normal compost will suit it perfectly, and it may readily be
increased by offsets.

180 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

Petunia.— -The fringed single and double forms of this flower
garden favourite are excellent plants for the greenhouse. The
florists now have remarkably fine strains of the doubles, the
flowers being immensely large, and most richly coloured. When
these are well grown they make very handsome specimens. They
are almost invariably treated as annuals, being raised from seed
and flowered in the course of a few weeks. The normal treat-
ment, both as to sowing and soil, will suit them admirably.

Plumbago. — Plumbago capensis is a popular greenhouse plant,
and sometimes finds its way into a room window, grown in
a pot, and trained on a trellis. It is a vigorous plant, and is
often planted out in large houses, and trained up pillars, where it
produces its blue flowers freely in summer and early autumn.
The young shoots may be pruned in closely after flowering, as
better flowering wood forms when the plant is thinly grown than
when it is crowded with shoots of all sizes. It may be propagated
by cuttings in spring, and grown in normal soil. The species
rosea is also a popular Plumbago, and may be had in flower in
a warm greenhouse in winter by striking cuttings in spring.

Poinsettia. — The flat, scarlet bracts of this plant, taking the
place of flowers, are most brilliant, and cause it to be a great
deal sought after by gardeners, who take short pieces of the old
stem in spring, and strike them in bottom heat ; or strike cuttings
in late summer for winter blooming. Given the temperature of
a hothouse Poinsettias thrive in the normal soil, and when in
full beauty no flowering plant will be more brilliant.

Primula. — The Chinese Primrose (Primula sinensis of botanists)
is one of the most popular of all greenhouse plants, and no
surprise can be felt at this when a good collection is seen in full
beauty, for the plants have handsome foliage, from the centre of
which rises a sturdy stem six or eight inches high, crowned with
a cluster of round, fringed flowers, ranging in colour from white
to flesh, pink, salmon, rose, and crimson, and also comprising

GREENHOUSE AND HOTHOUSE FLOWERS 181

shades of blue. Bearing in mind that we can get Primula beauty
at mid-winter, and that without the aid of a hothouse, we recog-
nise how valuable the plant is. Many growers take care to sow
successions in March, April, May, and June, so as to get regular
batches of plants in flower over as long a period as possible.
The seed is rather dear, but a good strain is worth what it costs.
The normal treatment as to sowing and soil suits perfectly. The
plants are best in a frame during the summer, where they can be
given abundance of light and air. If they are grown in a green-
house, care must be taken to keep them close to the glass while
they are small. There are other valuable Primulas for indoor
flowering besides the Chinese. Floribunda, with yellow flowers
in spring; kewensis, a yellow-flowered hybrid that blooms in
winter; and obconica, lilac, spring flowering, are three particularly
desirable ones. Obconica is now represented by many varieties,
differing in colour from the parent. It is a very free-flowering,
bright, and easily grown plant, but gives trouble to some growers
by causing a painful skin-rash. Gloves should be worn when it
is handled by those who are subject to this affliction.

Rose. — See special section.

Salvia. — The brilliant Salvia splendens is a well-known, winter-
blooming greenhouse plant, and it is so easily grown that it ought
never to be overlooked by amateurs. Its flowers are borne in
great profusion, and are of a vivid scarlet colour. But it is not
the only winter-blooming Salvia. Heerii, also scarlet, is another
that will flower in the greenhouse in the dull season. There are,
too, several fine varieties of splendens, one or two of which may
be preferred to the type. Bruantii, for instance, is splendid, and
grandiflora is also excellent. There are two good blue Salvias.
The best known is patens, which has flowers of a deep " Oxford "
blue, and is a very useful plant, but it is a summer bloomer.
Azurea, also blue, flowers in summer and autumn. There is a
beautiful rosy red Salvia named Bethelli, which blooms in summer.

182 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

All these thrive in the greenhouse in the normal compost. They
are propagated by cuttings towards the end of winter, but the
invaluable splendens comes well from seed.

Schizanthus (Butterfly Flower).— Beautiful plants are these,
with abundance of light sprays, densely clothed in bloom. There
are no plants more free-flowering, none more elegant, though many
more brilliant in colour. They come readily from seed, and will
flower in an unheated greenhouse in late summer and early autumn
if sown in spring. Seeds sown in a heated greenhouse in August
or September produce plants which will bloom profusely in the
following year. Every owner of a greenhouse must grow the
lovely Butterfly Flowers. He must not think that because the
botanical name is somewhat long and difficult the plant itself is
forbidding. Long, hard names seem to cling to the Butterfly
Flower. Thus, one of the prettiest of the older kinds is called
papilionaceus, while the magnificent new sort which has charmed
all lovers of this delightful annual is called Schizanthus Wise-
tonensis. It is tough, certainly, but the plant would be grown
if a dozen more names equally formidable were tacked on to it.
Coming readily from seed, charming in colour, neat in habit
with a little pinching, so free in blooming that the plants are
perfect pyramids of blossom, it is one of the real gems of the
floral world. The normal soil suits it to admiration.

Solanum (Winter Cherry}. — The flowers of this plant are of
little beauty, and it would not be grown much were it not for its
bright orange berries, which form freely, and hang most of the
winter. The species capsicastrum is the one to order from the
seedsman, and it will be found very easy to manage. It not only
comes readily from seed, but also from cuttings, which may be
struck from portions of young shoots when the plants start grow-
ing after being cut back, which is done when the berries begin to
shrivel. The cuttings had better be given bottom heat to insure
their rooting quickly. The plants will be all right in a cold frame,

GREENHOUSE AND HOTHOUSE FLOWERS 183

or even planted in the garden, during the summer. Beyond
watering, the only attention needed is to keep them free from
green-fly, which is very partial to them. The normal mixture will
suit. There are several other attractive Solanums beside the
Winter Cherry, notably jasminoides (Jasmine-like), a summer-
flowering greenhouse climber with blue and white flowers ; Wend-
landi, a summer-flowering climber for the intermediate house with
blue flowers ; and Worsleyi, which bears white flowers in summer,
followed by red, egg-shaped fruits. They
will all do in the normal mixture.

Sparmannia africana. — Without being
precisely a popular plant, or possessed of
any striking qualities, this yet enjoys a
very fair measure of favour. It is un-
common in appearance, it grows freely
into quite large, shrub-like dimensions,
and it blooms in winter in a greenhouse.
These are claims not without weight. A, dump of spiraea for planting; B,

_,, ._ .... . stems cut off at this point when

The flOWerS are White, With prominent, flowers, C, and leaves and stems have

coloured stamens, and they are borne in

large clusters. Cuttings root freely in spring if given a little

bottom heat and air is excluded. The normal soil suits.

Spiraea japonica. — A plant of many names. At one time the
botanists called it Hoteia japonica, now they have decided that
it shall be Astilbe japonica. We adhere to the name by which it
is almost universally known among trade and private cultivators.
The Spiraea is one of the plants which bulb-dealers supply in
autumn, although it is not, of course, a bulb. They offer what
are known as "clumps" — masses of roots and earth compacted
together. These are put into pots large enough to admit of
some good soil (normal mixture) being rammed in, and just
covered. They will flower in spring in an ordinary greenhouse
temperature, but growers often push them forward in gentle heat.

184 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

The long, graceful plumes of white inflorescence are almost too
well known to need any description. They are valuable for
cutting. Well-bloomed plants may be placed in room windows.
They are thirsty plants, and must have abundance of water.
In their case the plan of standing the pot in a saucer of water
is permissible, especially if they have to be left unattended
for some time. It may be added that the saucer plan cannot
be recommended for general adoption, although it is much — too
much — practised by amateurs. The roots of the Spiraeas may
be planted out in moist, rich soil in spring, and lifted again in
early autumn.

Stephanotis. — The pure white, deliciously perfumed Stephanotis
floribunda is a great favourite with every lover of flowers, although
everybody cannot grow it, owing to the fact that it needs
the temperature of an intermediate or stove house. Gardeners
generally grow it for rambling along the roof, and keep a careful
eye upon it to see that it does not get covered with mealy-bug
(see Insects), which often makes untended plants quite filthy.
The Stephanotis loves warmth at all times, and warmth in
combination with abundance of atmospheric moisture in summer.
It is a mistake to allow it to become crowded with shoots, as
not only is it then more difficult to cleanse, but the flowers are
not so good. It likes a good admixture of peat in the compost.
Propagation is effected by inserting cuttings of side shoots in
bottom heat in spring, and excluding the air from them.

Stocks. — The greenhouse lover must not overlook the Stocks
because they are generally grown out of doors. Apart from the
fact that the Ten-weeks make charming pot plants, and are well
adapted for unheated greenhouses, owing to their flowering in a
few weeks from seed sown in spring, he must remember that
there is a class almost exclusively grown in pots. These are called
Intermediates, and most charming they are. They are treated as
annuals or biennials, in the former case being sown in spring for

W

^^•L. ^v .

GREENHOUSE AND HOTHOUSE FLOWERS 185

autumn blooming, and in the latter in summer for flowering the
following spring. Several colours are obtainable. They succeed
with the normal soil and treatment. The East Lothian is another
fine strain of pot Stocks.

Streptocarpus. — This is an example of an old plant taken in
hand by hybridisers and improved so much as to become practi-
cally a new flower. It is a most charming plant, bearing abund-
ance of attractive, tubular flowers, which embrace many pleasing
shades of lavender, grey, blue, lilac, and mauve. In the newest
forms the size of the flowers has grown so much that the Strepto-
carpus promises to rival the Gloxinia in a few years' time. The
foliage is handsome too. It may be grown in a greenhouse, but it
is often given a warmer structure in order to get earlier bloom.
It comes from seed readily enough, and may have the normal treat-
ment. Seed may be sown in spring for giving strong flowering
plants the following year. The plants may also be propagated by
leaf cuttings, in the same way as some of the Begonias.

Torenia. — The lovely little Torenias are not half enough grown
by owners of hothouses, considering that they are easily raised
from seed. The beautiful violet species Fournieri, and the equally
pretty yellow flava, or Bailloni as it is often called by seedsmen,
are real gems, bearing their exquisite flowers in profusion. The
latter species is often grown in baskets, to which purpose its
pendulous habit lends itself. The seeds may be sown in spring
and given ordinary treatment, while the normal soil will do
quite well, although some peat may be added with advantage if
available.

Tulips. — See Bulb section.

The foregoing notes do not include all the plants worth grow-
ing in glass-houses — to do that would be to greatly exceed the
space available — but they comprise the most important, and will
serve to show that there is abundance of material at the service
of cultivators.

(2,299) 13

WINDOW AND ROOM PLANTS

THE cultivation of beautiful flowers in windows and rooms is one
of those delightful pursuits which appeal to all classes. The owner
of a dwelling loves to see it embellished with flowers, however
humble it may be. He or she (for the sexes take an equal interest
in this phase of plant culture) delights in decorating the windows.
As a rule, the town amateur gardener grows his plants on the
outside sill, and the countryman within the room. One does not
often see the interior of a town window packed with plants. The
main reason for this is that in towns every inch of house space is
utilised. If a town workman has a spare room he promptly lets
it, in order to help himself out with his heavy rent. The country-
man, on the other hand, always likes to have a spare room, which,
however small the dwelling, is rarely used. His little parlour is
generally a sacrosanct institution, only to be occupied on State
occasions. Truth to state, it generally smells very musty, from
want of ventilation and use. If you tried to open the window,
you would probably find that it was fixed too firmly in its frame
to be moved. But the chances are that you would never be able to
get near enough to the window to make an attempt at ventilation,
because of the huge barrier in the form of a plant-stand.

One cannot very well condemn Hodge for cultivating plants
inside his windows, and advise him to grow them on the sill;
in the first place, because the cultivation of room plants is
beneficial; and in the second, because he has no sill. But it
is certainly desirable to expostulate gently when a window is
blocked. That is not good either for the plants or Hodge, not
to speak of Mrs. Hodge and the junior Hodges.

WINDOW AND ROOM PLANTS 187

We have said that the cultivation of room plants is beneficial,
and in this connection it may be well to say a word on the
influence of plants on health. The budding student will tell you
that the animal world inhales oxygen, and exhales carbonic acid,
thus vitiating the air; but that plants inhale carbonic acid, and
build up the carbon into their system. So far good, the plant
restores nature's balance by taking from the air the impure
substance which the animal has poured into it. But the budding
student goes further; he tells you that the plant's functions are
reversed at night, and consequently, that while a collection of
plants in a room is healthy during the day, it is unhealthy after
nightfall. If this were strictly correct it would be a somewhat
serious matter, for it would show that plants are a source of
danger in bedrooms, and must certainly be kept out of the rooms
of invalids. But it is not entirely accurate. The change in the
functions of the plant ought rather to be described as suspension
than reversal. Certainly, so far as respiratory action is concerned,
the presence of a plant or two in a bedroom cannot be regarded
as inimical to the health of human beings ; and one gas-jet
with an ill-fitting burner, still more one stuffed chimney, or one
window that will not open, will do far more harm. Any one who
has the least fear of evil consequences, yet does not like to discard
his plants, may rest assured that if he will remove the stuffing
from the chimney, and keep his bedroom window open all night,
he will never suffer from the respiratory processes of plants.

There is, however, another matter to be considered, and that
is the perfume of strongly scented flowers. This certainly has a
deleterious effect on some persons, even when they are in health.
Here the " personal equation " comes in. There are instances on
record of a brave soldier trembling violently merely because a cat
came near him. One person will enjoy the odour of a Hyacinth ;
another will be overcome by it. Experience will soon teach
valuable lessons on this matter. Strong-smelling flowers must

188 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

not be kept in a room, especially in a sick-room, if they trouble
the occupant; on the other hand, they should not be expelled
without cause, for their fragrance and cheerful appearance may do
real good by raising the spirits of the invalid.

Now, what about the other side of the question— the effects
on the plants of being kept in a room? They have to be con-
sidered also. A great many plants will remain in health for
months, and even years, in a light, airy room, that would become
unhealthy in a week in a dark, stuffy one. Plants may serve a
real purpose in rooms by indicating, from their condition, the
purity or impurity of the air. There are one or two plants,
notably the Aspidistra, which will stand almost anything — bad
air, draughts, alternations of heat and cold, neglect in watering —
but the majority will not. Most plants do badly in rooms lit by
open gas-burners if the window is not kept open at night, as it
always should be. Things are not so bad where good incan-
descent burners are used. Oil lamps, too, are less deleterious.
Even delicate, susceptible plants may be kept fairly healthy in
artificially lighted rooms if they are stood in a position below the
level of the illuminant, and if the window is kept open. The
latter point cannot be too often pressed home. Ventilation is
good both for human beings and plants. Foul air is more
dangerous than a draught, although the latter should be avoided,
as it may be. If the window is only open to the extent of about
an inch a great effect is exercised upon the air of the room,
especially if there is an open chimney, with or without a fire.

Success in the cultivation of room plants turns partly upon the
choice of material, and partly upon care in ventilating and water-
ing. It is not wise to choose very tender plants, because rooms,
however warm during the day, are often cold at night. It is not
prudent to rely upon ferns, unless they be grown in a case, because
the air is likely to be too dry for them. If a tender plant is grown
it should be removed from the neighbourhood of a window when

WINDOW AND ROOM PLANTS 189

the family retires to rest, and in cold weather covered with several
thicknesses of newspaper. Should it happen to get touched by
frost it should not be stood near the fire, or hurried away to
a hothouse, but should be stood in a cool, shady place, and
sprinkled with cold water. This will save it, if anything will.

Let us draw up a list of plants which will thrive in rooms,
with proper care and attention, putting them in two classes —
plants desirable owing to the possession of handsome foliage, and
plants which have beautiful flowers.

Palms. — Areca lutescens.

Kentia Forsteriana.

FOLIAGE PLANTS

*Geonoma gracilis.
*Latania borbonica.

Phoenix reclinata.
*Seaforthia elegans.

Cocos Weddeliana.

* These three might be chosen if six were too many.

Palms may be maintained in health for years in living-rooms,
even if gas is burned, with ordinary care and attention. They
should be kept in or near the window, in order that they may
get plenty of light; being turned occasionally, to bring a different
side towards the light. A compost of three parts fibrous loam,
one part each of leaf-mould and decayed manure, and a tenth of
coarse, washed sand will suit them. They should be watered
when the pot rings hollow under the knuckles, and at no other
time. During mild showers they should be stood out of doors
for an hour or two, as the rain will cleanse and freshen them.
An occasional sponging with soft, tepid water will also do them
good. This attention to the foliage is of great benefit to palms,
and a most important factor in keeping them in health. They
will not grow fast, nor is it desirable that they should. Repotting
once a year will be ample, and this may be done in spring.
When they have got to the largest convenient size of pot, top-
dressing may be substituted for repotting. The plant may be

190 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

turned out of the pot, the outer casing of soil crumbled away, the
drainage rearranged, and the plant replaced in the pot, fresh
earth being rammed down the sides, and packed on the top.
Neither in top-dressing nor repotting should the pot be filled
quite full; an inch of space must be left for water— two inches
in the case of a large pot. It is almost essential that the pots
should be stood in saucers of water, in order to prevent the mess
that would be made by water escaping through the drainage at

every watering, but the water should
not be allowed to rest in the saucers
all day, except in summer ; and even then
periodical emptyings will have to be re-
sorted to, so as to avoid an overflow.
This question of providing for superfluous
water is a drawback to window plants,
but it is unavoidable, unless the grower
is prepared to carry the plants out of
the room every time they are watered.

Some amateurs affect to be able to
perceive great virtue in the use of tea-
leaves on palms and other room plants,
but it is not clear that they have any
special virtue. An ounce of superphos-
phate to the gallon of water, applied once a week or so, or a
pinch of one of the advertised fertilisers spread on the surface
and watered in, will do far more good.

Palms are propagated by seeds, but it is a slow business,
except when abundance of bottom heat and moisture can be pro-
vided, and is best left to nurserymen and market growers who
require very large quantities of plants. Young palms can be
bought very cheaply indeed.

Ferns.— Every grower of room plants likes to have a few
ferns. The plants have a grace and charm that even palms do

POTTING PALMS

A, Phoenix reclinata turned out of pot

B, crocks and interlacing removed

C, plant repotted.

WINDOW AND ROOM PLANTS 191

not possess. We will name a few species that will thrive in
rooms with care. First we will name two exotic ferns: —

Adiantum cuneatunt, the Maidenhair.

Pteris serrulata cristata, the Crested Ribbon Fern.

We will not say that the beautiful Maidenhair is an easy
plant to manage successfully in a room,
for it is not. It will not thrive in a
room that is alternately hot and cold,
is lit by open gas-burners, and is
ill-ventilated. At the same time, we
know of plants which have remained
in excellent condition for several years
in rooms. They were never subjected
to cold, cutting draughts, but on the
other hand they were not in gas-
poisoned air. Great care in watering
is necessary, and the plants must not A shows where to divide the
be allowed to get frozen.

The Ribbon Fern does very well in
a room, with care. It is charming in
a small state for dining-tables, or for grouping with vases of cut
flowers on occasional tables.

Any of the following British ferns may be tried in a room :—

DIVIDING AND REPOTTING
MAIDENHAIR FERNS

of roots;

B shows the crocks being removed ; C
shows the half of ball of roots potted in
compost D ; E, E, two halves of ball of
roots and soil.

Adiantum capillus-vtneris, the British

Maidenhair.

Asplenium marinum, the Sea Spleenwort.
Athyrium filix-foemina, the lady fern.
Lastrea filix-mas, the male fern.

Onoclea sensibilis.

Polystichum angulare prolifentm, a shield

fern.
Scolopendrium vulgare, the Hart's-tongue.

The best time for repotting ferns is the spring. The compost
recommended for palms may be altered to the extent of reducing
the quantity of loam by one-half, and substituting peat. A very
good time to repot is when the new fronds are seen to be moving.

192 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

The procedure may be the same as for palms, and top-dressing
may be substituted for repotting if more convenient.

If a Maidenhair should fall into ill-health it is advisable to cut
it hard back, and let it break again.

Ferns are propagated by spores as a rule, which are gathered
from the fronds, and sown like seeds, but the process is slow,
and young plants can be bought very cheaply. Maidenhairs can

be increased by division, which is best
effected when growth starts in spring.
They should be cut boldly through with
a strong, sharp knife.

The Aspidistra— -The Parlour Palm,
as Aspidistra lurida and its variegated
form are often called, is not a true
palm. It is one of the most valuable
of house plants, because it will thrive
under conditions that would lead to the
speedy demise of most plants. It will
thrive for a considerable period in a

ASPIDISTRA LURIDA VARIEGATA

A, side shoot held in position by peg ;B, draughty passage. Of course, draughts

are not good for it, and if they have
their way for a long time they will
tell their inevitable tale; but it is as
well to know of a plant that does not succumb quickly to
unfavourable circumstances.

Most people prefer the variegated Aspidistra to the plain
green, and are generally disconsolate when a variegated plant
loses its silvery patches. They should learn that this is generally
due to providing too rich a soil. The more luxuriant the growth,
the greater the likelihood of a preponderance of green. Plain
loam and sand will suffice; manure and leaf-mould should both
be avoided.

The transference to the open air during showers, the sponging

shows the flower of the

FUCHSIAS IN THE GREENHOUSE
By A. Fairfax Muckley

WINDOW AND ROOM PLANTS 193

of the leaves, and the careful watering are as good for Aspi-
distras as they are for palms. The plant is of no value for its
flowers, but it is interesting to know that these appear in an
unusual way. They push up from the root-stock, and lie on the
surface of the soil.

The India-rubber Plant. — This is really not a good room
plant, because draughts, close air, and alternations of temperature
cause its lower leaves to turn yellow and fall; when this happens
the plant is the reverse of ornamental. But with the avoidance
of draughts, and very careful watering,
success is possible. The palm com-
post and general treatment will suit
Ficus elastica.

We have known ' a skilful man
dwarf a tall India-rubber Plant, the
base of which was bare of leaves, very
cleverly. It was done by cutting a
nick in the stem, and binding moss
round it, which was kept moist until
rooting took place, when the upper part
was cut away and potted. We will
not promise success in this operation,

however, unless a moist, warm temperature is available ; nor
will we in striking cuttings of short pieces of stem, each with
a leaf attached, although experienced propagators can strike them
with plenty of moist bottom heat.

Rex Begonias. — The invaluable Begonia genus gives us a
useful foliage plant in Begonia Rex, and a beautiful flowering
one in Weltoniensis, a fibrous-rooted species with pink blossoms.
Begonia Rex has handsome marbled leaves, and a healthy plant
looks remarkably well in a window. The flowering species is best
brought into bloom in a warm greenhouse, and then moved to
the room window, where it will retain its beauty for several

A, cutting of Ficus elastica prepared for in-
sertion ; B, B, hot-water pipes through
a frame ; C, cuttings in pots plunged in
cocoa-nut fibre D.

194 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

weeks. Both plants will thrive in the compost recommended for
palms if they are carefully watered. Begonia Rex is propagated
by taking a mature leaf, nicking the midrib, and laying it on the
surface of the soil in a pot or box : B. Weltoniensis by cuttings.

The Parlour Fig (A r alia Sieboldii).—Th\s plant (now called
Fatsia by botanists, who have abandoned the familiar name of
Aralid] has broad, deeply cut foliage, with very thick leaf-stalks.
It will keep healthy in a room for a long time if carefully watered.
It will not endure draughts like an Aspidistra.

BERRIED PLANTS

There are two berry-bearing plants admirably adapted for room
decoration, namely, Ardisia crenata (or crenulatd) and the Winter
Cherry (Solanum capsicastrum). The former, although little
known, is the better of the two, so far as endurance is concerned
at all events. Its berries are much smaller than those of the
Solanum, and are darker in colour. They hang on the plants for
many months, and a plant will retain its beauty in a room for
more than half a year if it is properly watered, and the room
ventilated. The Ardisia will thrive in the palm compost. It may
be propagated by cuttings, which may be struck in bottom heat
in summer. Fairly firm wood should be selected.

FLOWERING PLANTS

The number of flowering plants available for rooms turns on
whether there is a glass-house or not. The owner of a green-
house will be constantly bringing nice plants that are just begin-
ning to bloom into the rooms. They may be plants that would
not thrive in a dwelling-house all the year round, but are quite
suitable for embellishing it for a few weeks. It is an immense
advantage to have a glass structure of some kind, because with its
aid a succession of plants can be had the greater part of the year.

WINDOW AND ROOM PLANTS 195

Bulbs will be valuable in the winter. They may be grown in
water, in pots of earth, or in vases of peat-moss litter, as pointed
out in our Bulb section. White Roman Hyacinths must be par-
ticularly borne in mind, because they are so beautiful both for
the dinner-table and the window. With the aid of a warm green-
house, flowers may be had on the Christmas dinner-table. Of
course, these and other Hyacinths may be flowered in rooms
without the aid of any glass whatever, as they can be brought
straight from the plunging-bed to the house; the bloom is later,
that is all. If Hyacinths are grown in glasses, they will of course
pass a few weeks in a dark cupboard before being put in the
window.

The lover of perfumed flowers will make a special effort to
have a few pots of Freesias coming on in succession. One pot
will suffice to fill a fair-sized room with delicious odour.

The beautiful white Arum Lily will not be overlooked. This,
as we saw in another chapter, may be grown in the garden
during the summer, and potted up towards the end of Septem-
ber. If it is kept in a pot throughout the year care should be
taken to give it abundance of water, as it is a semi-aquatic plant,
and soon suffers from drought. There is no need to keep it in the
house all the summer through. It may be stood out of doors
when it ceases flowering. That it is a grand room plant is
proved by the sight of splendid old plants, which bloom freely
every year. The Godfrey is a splendid variety.

Early Tulips, and Daffodils of the Trumpet and Chalice sec-
tions, are very useful for rooms. The Due Van Thol Tulips will
give very early flowers ; and of the Narcissi, obvallaris (Tenby
Daffodil), Golden Spur, and Henry Irving will be among the
first in flower.

The Scarborough Lily (Vallota purpured), which is also re-
ferred to under Bulbs, is a bright and useful room plant. Its
colour is very brilliant.

196 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

One of the best of general flowering plants for rooms is
assuredly the Clivia, which used to be known by the longer
name of Imantophyllum. Visitors to Holland in winter and
spring will observe how fond the Dutch are of this as a window
plant. In passing through a town of any size one may see it in
almost every one of the neat, clean, smart houses. It occupies
the post of honour in the window of the main room looking
on the street, and presents a very cheerful appearance, with its
bright orange flowers. We dealt with the culture of the plant in
our Greenhouse section.

Of course the Zonal Pelargonium looms largely in our tale of
window plants. It is so free a grower, so profuse a bloomer, so
gay, so accommodating, that it is in great demand. In collections
of window plants at the flower shows "Zonals" are nearly always
prominent — too much so sometimes, for a judge who is making
the awards in a class for three or six window plants does not
care to see the collection made up entirely of " Geraniums." He
likes to see at least two kinds of plant, and is better satisfied
with three. As we saw in our Greenhouse section, there are
many beautiful varieties, and those who have a warm structure
can have winter-blooming plants by striking cuttings in spring
and picking off the flower-buds until autumn. The plants could
not be expected to remain in health and bloom long in an
ordinary room in winter, because it would be too cold at night.
Nice autumn bloom can be obtained by potting up some sturdy
plants out of the flower-beds.

As a variant on Zonals, there are Ivy-leaved and scented-leaved
" Geraniums." Many cottagers get nice window plants by training
an Ivy-leaved " Geranium " on a home-made framework of laths,
much the same as they use for Musk. The last-named plant is
often seen in the windows of country cottages, and is both pretty
and sweet.

Marguerites (varieties of Chrysanthemum frutescens) are stock

WINDOW AND ROOM PLANTS 197

favourites for windows, both indoors and out. Their strong
points are their free and persistent blooming and their attractive
foliage. They do not, it is true, give us a great range of colours,
being either white or yellow; but that is not a serious drawback,
as we can get colour in other things. Marguerites come readily
from cuttings, thrive in ordinary potting compost, and are easy to
keep healthy so long as the leaf-mining maggot can be kept at
bay. (See Greenhouse section.)

Plants in Vases. — Room gardening assumed a new phase with
the trial of peat-moss fibre in china vases for bulbs and other
plants. It proved to be entirely successful. Bulbs do particu-
larly well in this substance. It is purchased in a dry state in
autumn with the bulbs, is moistened, and is made firm, but
not absolutely hard, in the receptacles, which need not be at
all expensive. The vases are not put in a dark place like bulbs
in glasses, because the bulbs are covered with fibre, and top
growth does not push in advance of the roots. In autumn the
fibre is hardly likely to get quite dry, but should it do so it
ought to be moistened. It is desirable that the store be frost-
proof, but the bulbs will endure a little hardship. When they are
in full growth water will be required more frequently. Any excess
must be got rid of by gently turning the vase on its side, as
the vases are not perforated, and there is no drainage. Care
should be taken to avoid filling the vases quite full of fibre,
as if that were done particles would be constantly falling over
and making a mess. If this is guarded against vases will be
found perfectly clean.

Bulbs may also be grown successfully in bowls filled with
clean pebbles and water. Polyanthus Narcissi do particularly
well. They may be treated in the same way as Hyacinths in
glasses — that is, put into a dark cupboard for six or eight weeks,
and then placed in the window.

Once upon a time Wardian cases were popular for the windows

198 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

of rooms, but they are not much in use nowadays. The rise of
vase and bowl cultivation has doubtless had a great deal to do
with their relegation. Small, separate receptacles, which can be
moved from place to place, and put on a dinner-table during
meals, are preferred to a large fixture.

CUT FLOWERS

The use of cut flowers for room decoration spreads from
year to year, and it is earnestly to be hoped that it will con-
tinue to do so. Ultra-sensitive people raise objections to the
cutting of flowers. They "like to see the poor things on the
plants." Certainly, we all like to see flowers on the plants ;
that is what we grow most plants for. But we have got to
remember that the constant cutting of flowers helps plants to
grow and bloom, and therefore, that the latter are benefited by
the practice. If flowers are left on plants they run to seed, and
blooming ceases.

The subject of cut flowers is too large a one to be dealt with
fully. Adequate treatment would mean a volume. We must be
satisfied with a few brief hints : —

(1) Cut all flowers while young and fresh.

(2) Cut them with long stalks, because then they can be
arranged lightly.

(3) Do not, as a rule, use many different kinds of flowers in
one vase.

(4) Make a practice of arranging flowers with their own foliage.

(5) Cut a short piece off the bottom of the stem every two
or three days.

(6) To revive drooping flowers, put them in hot water con-
taining a little salt.

Cut flowers adorn rooms in a delightful way, and exercise a
sweetening and refining influence.

WINDOW AND ROOM PLANTS

199

WINDOW-BOXES

Reference was made to window-boxes in the Bulb section, and
it is unnecessary to repeat the details ; but it has to be pointed
out that bulbs adorn window-boxes in spring only, and that when
they are over provision must be made for the summer display.

In passing, it may be noted that some people prefer to have
plants in pots on their window-sills, be-
cause of the facility for making changes.
There is no real objection to this, but
the grower must remember two things :
the first, that he must place blocks or
a strip of wood along sloping sills to
raise the front of the pots and bring
them level, otherwise the plants cannot
be properly watered ; the second, that a
support will be required to prevent their
being blown off. A framework to fit the
window can easily be made, and if it is

A, A, sand at base of cuttings ; B, cuttings
faced With Virgin COrk the pOtS Will be inserted through sandy surface ; C,

a suitable cutting — basal shoot; D,
hidden. plant in flower in pot. It quickly

grows to this stage and condition.

In the case of boxes, they must be

made to fit the sill, but there is no objection to their overhang-
ing a little in front, provided that there is no fear of over-
balancing. There must be a strip at each end, thickened in
front, to keep the box clear of the sill, and level. A number of
holes should be bored or burnt in the bottom to permit of water
escaping. These holes may be covered with pieces of broken
flower-pot.

When bulbs are used in window-boxes it is a good plan to
associate coloured Primroses with them, as the latter bloom later
than most bulbs, and maintain the display. They are beautiful

CAMPANULA ISOPHYLLA ALBA FOR
POTS OR BASKETS

200 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

flowers, and will be at their best from the middle of April to the
middle of May.

All the popular, free-flowering plants, such as Zonal and
Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums, Fuchsias, Marguerites, Begonias, China
Asters, Campanula isophylla, and Creeping Jenny will be avail-
able for summer bloom. Crowding in a great many kinds is
inadvisable, as the plants spoil each other.

The boxes can be cleared in November and planted with bulbs
or small conifers.

THE CARNATION

THE Carnation is a prime favourite with almost every lover of
flowers. We may include the Pink with it in a general sense, and
when we do so we widen its appeal. It is one of those old, old
flowers, love of which has become almost traditional. It could no
more be torn out of the lives of the British people than affection
for the Union Jack. True, it is not the national flower ; that great
distinction belongs to the Rose ; but it is only in a minor degree
that it falls short in its hold on the affection of the public. There
are perhaps more Roses than Carnations grown, but for all that
there are few gardens worthy of the name in which the Carnation
is not represented. And its appeal is a very intimate one; it is
not merely admired, but loved. It gets its roots deep down into
our hearts.

What is the explanation of the great favour which the Carna-
tion enjoys? It is undoubtedly the union of attractive form and
colour with delicious perfume. Our ancestors learned to love the
flower because it was at once beautiful and sweet. They did not
call it by its present name in the earliest times. It was known
to them as the Gilloflower. Of course, more than one plant bore
this name. When we escape from the rush and bustle of the
modern workaday world — from the hissing of the electric tram,
the humming of the printing-press, and the hooting of the motor-
car— into the quiet seclusion of the study, and spend a delightful
hour with the old poets and gardening writers, we find that

(2,299) 801 14

202 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

Stock, Wallflower, and Carnation were alike called Gilloflowers.
But there were distinctions between the members of this lovely,
fragrant trinity. The first was the Stock-gilloflower, the second
the Wall-gilloflower, the third the Gilloflower. The Carnation,
then, was the Queen of the old Gilloflowers. Gillyflower, Gillo-
flower, or Gilliflower (all three spellings appear) is held to be a
corruption of Caryophyllum, the clove.

When Chaucer writes of the "clow gilofre" he certainly means
the clove gilloflower — the Carnation. The lines following his
allusion to it —

"And notemuge to put in ale
Whether it be moist or stale,"

point to its admitted use in the olden days as a spice.

Whence, however, the derivation of the name "Carnation,"
and whence that of "clove"? The answers to these questions are
full of interest, because the two names are shown to react on
each other in a remarkable, and yet simple, way, arising directly
out of the perfume of the flower. The old writers used the
term Clove Gilloflower because the bloom had the odour of the
commercial clove — that spice, early childhood memories of which
are chequered by the recollection of its use, not only in various
agreeable dishes, but also as a supposed remedy for toothache.
The clove is the dried flower-bud of the Myrtaceous shrub
Caryophyllus aromaticus, from the Latin caryophyllum, a clove.
Now, according to some authorities, the word " carnation " is
neither more nor less than a corruption of caryophyllum. Another
derivation is suggested, however. The ancient Greeks and Romans
used the flower for making chaplets, and hence it was called the
"coronation flower." The corruption of "coronation" to "car-
nation" is more obvious than the change from caryophyllum to
Carnation, although the latter is by no means impossible. Some
writers contend that instead of "carnation" being a corruption of
"coronation," the reverse holds good — that "carnation" was used

THE CARNATION 203

to describe the flower because of its colour, and that it came to
be called a "coronation" because lovers used it as a crown when
they became engaged to marry. These conflicting views illustrate
the difficulty of offering an explanation that is equally satisfactory
to all, but one thing is clear through everything, and that is the
clove association. It lingers in the botanical name of the Car-
nation, which is Dianthus caryophyllus. The word Dianthus means
"flower of the gods."

The fact that the Carnation was known to the ancient Greeks
and Romans proves it to be a very old plant. Pliny places its
earliest habitat in Spain, where he states that it was found in the
days of Augustus Caesar. He tells us that the Spaniards used it
as a spice. As we have seen, the old English used it in the
same way ; hence the name " soppes-in-wine." It is difficult to
say when the plant first appeared in Britain. The original plant
was flesh-coloured, and according to Gerarde yellow varieties were
not introduced until 1580. If that were so they developed very
fast, for we find Shakespeare writing of "streaked gilivors" in
1601, and read of Parkinson growing a "complete collection" some
thirty years later. But they were not classified into the sections
under which we have them, such as Bizarres, Flakes, Selfs, and
Picotees, until later days. This was probably done in the eighteenth
century, towards the end of which Flakes and Bizarres were grown
to as high a state of perfection, according to one famous modern
florist, as they are at the present time. In support of his conten-
tion, he refers his readers to Plate 39 of the Botanical Magazine,
where a splendid example of a florist's Carnation is shown. The
yellow ground Picotee appeared in the seventeenth century.

In modern days the greatest development among Carnations
has been in the Selfs and Fancies. The former are one-coloured
flowers ; the latter are yellow or white flowers, suffused and other-
wise irregularly marked with another colour. They are beautiful
classes, both for garden and pot culture, and the same remark

204

BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

applies to the Picotees, which have a clearly defined line of colour
round the edge of the petals. The Bizarres and Flakes are almost
exclusively exhibition flowers. The old British florists stipulate
for a circular, well-filled flower, with smooth, round petals, the edges
of which are uncut. The petals must overlap each other evenly.
A class of Selfs has developed, however, with cut or serrated
edges. As florist's flowers they are imperfect, but the blooms are
large, the colours are brilliant, the perfume is powerful, and the
plants are valuable for winter blooming in pots, consequently they
are in great favour. They are called American Carnations, and
may tend to displace the old type of Winter or Tree Carnations,
and also the Malmaison class. The latter is very beautiful, but
is somewhat difficult to manage, and really needs to be grown in
a house to itself to be in perfection.

We will give selections of the various classes: —

Scarlet Bizarres.

Robert Houlgrave.
Admiral Curzon.

Pink and Purple Bizarres.

Wm. Skirving.
Sarah Payne.

Crimson Bizarres.

Rifleman.
Master Fred.

Scarlet Flakes.

Sportsman.
John Wormald.

Purple Flakes.

James Douglas.
George Melville.

Rose Flakes.

Thalia.
Mrs. Rowan.

Crimson Selfs.

Agnes Sorrel.
Gil Polo.

White Selfs.
Trojan.
Hildegarde.
Mrs. Eric Hambro.

Yellow Selfs.
Daffodil.
Cecilia.

Pink and Rose Selfs.
Lady Hermione.
Lady Carrington.

Scarlet Selfs.
B arras.
Herbert J. Cutbush.

Yellow Ground Fancies.
Amphion.
Brodrick.
Hidalgo.

White Ground Picotees.

Amy Robsart.

Brunette.

Fortrose.

Ganymede.

Little Phil.

Zerlina.

Yellow Ground Picotees.

Childe Harold.
Gertrude.
Gronow.
Lucy Glitters.
Rabelais.
The Pilgrim.

Malmaisons.

Lady Ulrica.
Lord Welby.
Mrs. Martin Smith.
Mrs. Trelawny.
Princess of Wales.
Thora.

Trees.

Deutsche Brant.

Duchess Consuelo.

Lady Carlisle.

Mrs. L. de Rothschild.

Uriah Pike.

Winter Cheer.

THE CARNATION

American.

Alpine Glow.

Beacon.

Enchantress.

Flamingo.

Mrs. Burnett.

Mrs. T. W. Lawson.

White Enchantress.

Winsor.

205

Garden Pinks.

Anne Boleyn.
Ernest Ladhams.
Her Majesty.
Mrs. Sinkins.
Modesty.
Paddington.

One other section may be alluded to, and that is the Mar-
guerite Carnation, which is treated as an annual by being raised
from seed every year. It is bright, pretty, and useful for cutting.

In dealing with the culture of Carnations we may usefully
consider them under two heads — garden and indoor.

GARDEN CARNATIONS

Carnations are beautiful in gardens for beds and borders.
Strong plants make very attractive objects, with their tufts of
greyish green foliage, large flowers, and
brilliant colours.

Propagation. — Useful garden material
can be raised from seed, by sowing out
of doors in early summer, but the flowers
will not possess any marked quality. The
best method of propagating good named
varieties is to " tongue " the young grow-
ing shoots about midsummer, and peg
them down on a mound of sandy soil.
The operation is very simple, and con-
sists of making: a longitudinal slit about
an inch in length along the stem with a

sharp knife, and gently drawing it open, or slipping in a small
pebble to keep the surfaces apart. Roots will form on them, and
in October the shoot — now a separate plant — may be severed from
the parent. It is common to winter the young plants in a frame,

MARGUERITE CARNATIONS FROM
SEEDS

D> *""* P'"" fil '"" p°"ine <*

planting out.

206 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

but some growers prefer to let them take their chance in the
open ground. The Carnation is hardy, but damp often kills

plants out of doors, especially in wet,
heavy soils. Pinks are propagated
by means of young shoots pulled out
of their sockets.

Planting. — The Carnations may be
put into the beds or borders from
the end of March to June, but April
is about the best planting month. If
the soil is very poor it ought to be

LAYERING CARNATIONS dug tWO Spades deep, and enriched

A, old plant; B, young layer; c shows the wjth decayed manure. If stiff and

cut made with a sharp knife, lip of stem

kept open with smaii pebble; D, special lumpy it should be lightened with

compost ; E, border soil. 11-1 T-I

road grit, or mortar rubbish. The

plants may be put eighteen inches apart, and pressed firmly into
the ground. They will not require stakes
in themselves, because the growth is
bushy and low, but the flower stems
will need support, and it will be wise
to get the special stakes which exhibition
growers use, such as Sydenham's or
Porter's. They are not expensive, and
while adequately supporting the stem
they allow it to extend freely.

Disbudding. — Growers who want a
large number of flowers will not disbud
to any great extent, if at all ; but those

Who grOW for exhibition Will find it A, rooted layer lifted ready for potting or

planting in border ; B shows where

absolutely necessary to thin the buds

severely. They will be found to come

in clusters, and these are reduced to the central or crown bud,

which develops into a large, symmetrical flower. The splitting of

PLANTING AND SUPPORTING

to place the tying material beneath a
joint C, when staking is done.

THE CARNATION 207

the calyx, which is common in many beautiful varieties, permits
the mass of petals which compose the bloom to bulge at one
side, and so spoil the shape. It is prevented by slipping on an
india-rubber ring. It will be necessary to shade the bed if the
flowers are to be kept quite fresh and of good colour, but it may
be well to warn readers who contemplate competing at the prin-
cipal shows that they will find themselves confronted by men
whose blooms have been grown in pots under glass. Even the
Selfs are generally grown in pots when show quality is aimed at.
Enemies. — The Carnation has several enemies, which, among
them, cause growers endless trouble and loss. Wireworms and
leather-jacket grubs, which will attack most plants, are particu-
larly fond of the roots of Carnations. Inasmuch as these pests
are generally abundant in pasture land, it follows that trouble
must be expected when turf is taken up in order to make flower-
beds. It is a good plan to plant Potatoes on the ground first, as
they draw off a large number of grubs. True, they themselves
suffer, but unless they are a special variety they are of much less
value than Carnations. Another plan is to dress the ground with
gas lime, but this must only be done with certain precautions.
In the first place, one pound per yard should not be exceeded.
In the second, the lime must be allowed to lie on the surface a
few weeks before being turned in. In the third place, it is wise
to let the ground lie fallow for a few weeks longer, or to crop
it with something of no special value, such as Potatoes or Greens.

(The least that can be done is to use baits among the Carnations.
These may consist of pieces of Potato, Carrot, or Mangel-wurzel
impaled on sticks, by means of which they can be thrust into the
ground. The baits must be withdrawn at frequent intervals, and
any grubs found on them destroyed.

Hares and rabbits must be looked upon as very dangerous
enemies of Carnations. Rabbits will attack them in preference to
almost anything in the garden, and will clear off every Carnation

208 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

on the place in a very short time. Needless to say they do not
spare the rare and expensive varieties. The Carnation grower
who has wild rabbits in his neighbourhood will be wise to wire
them out. If he cannot wire the whole garden he must wire
that portion of it where his Carnations are. If he were an expert
he might snare the rabbits in gins, but wiring out is more
reliable. Any ironmonger will supply suitable wire.

What is known as the Carnation maggot is another serious
enemy, and one that is likely to be overlooked altogether, because
it works insidiously in the heart of the plant. Many a grower
loses Carnations and is never able to satisfy himself as to the
cause. He suspects wireworms, but cannot find any; he reads of
" mould," but sees no trace of it on the leaves. Still the plants
go, whole shoots apparently rotting off. The maggot works in
the heart of the stems. It comes from a fly named Hylemyia
nigrescens, which lays eggs on various parts of the plant. If the
grower sees a blistered patch on the leaves he should pierce it
through and through with a needle, in order to destroy the maggot
within. If he observes a shoot become pale and unhealthy he
should carefully slit the stem with a sharp knife and search for
the maggot. It is most likely to be found in autumn or winter,
but may be operating at almost any period.

There are two common fungoid diseases of Carnations, one
called rust, and the other mould or spot. The latter, Heterosporium
echinulatum, is a most deadly disease. It is generally recognisable
by a series of patches formed of irregular rings, which spread
rapidly. They often appear in autumn, and get worse throughout
the winter, so that by the time the spring comes the plants are
dead. The disease attacks plants both out of doors and under
glass, but the pot plants generally suffer the most severely, as
they are in a closer, damper atmosphere, which certainly favours
the spread. Every affected leaf should be picked off at once, in
the hope of checking the attack. At the same time, the plants

PETUNIAS
By A. Fairfax Muckley

THE CARNATION 209

may be sprayed with sulphide of potassium (liver of sulphur)
dissolved in water at the rate of one ounce to three gallons. If
the plants are to be treated they should be carried out of the
house, as the solution discolours paint.

CARNATIONS IN POTS

Exhibition Carnations are generally grown in pairs in 7 or 8 inch
pots, but there is no reason why they should not be grown singly
in smaller pots, such as 5-inch, if more
convenient. Assuming that they are struck
from layers in summer, they will be put
into small pots in autumn, wintered in a
frame or cool house, and repotted when
they start growing in spring. Three parts
of fibrous loam, one each of leaf-mould
and decayed manure, and about one-tenth
of coarse sand will suit them admirably.
They must receive abundance of air, and
no attempt should be made to push them

POTTING CARNATIONS

on in heat. If they are coddled up in

J A shows a seedling in a small pot ;

a close, moist, warm atmosphere they B' the y°ung plant reP°tted in

J compost C.

will fall victims to mould. With careful

watering, and abundance of air, the plants will make steady

progress.

In due course flower-stems will begin to rise. There may be
more than one to each plant, and if there are they should be
immediately reduced to one, if fine flowers are required. Further,
disbudding will be needed, and until the grower has learned from
experience how to handle the different varieties, he will be wise
to allow each shoot to carry three flowers — the central one, and
two others on lateral shoots below. Disbudding is often carried
much further than this — even to the extent of having only one

210 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

flower on each plant; but such severe restriction, in the case of
the strong Selfs, is best left to thoroughly experienced growers,
who know what varieties it may be practised on, as if disbudding
is carried too far it is apt to lead to coarse, ugly flowers. Staking
and shading must have due attention in their season.

Afatmaisons.— These are not a suitable class for amateurs who
have only one house, as the plants do not take kindly to associa-
tion with a mixed collection of plants. They are generally propa-
gated by layers after they have flowered, and for this purpose are
planted out in frames. When rooted the young plants may be
placed singly in 4-inch pots, and grown through the summer in
a frame, or on a bed of ashes in a sheltered part of the garden.
In September they may be transferred to 6 or 7 inch pots, and
in October put in the house. They must be watered carefully
throughout the winter, kept as cool as possible, and given abund-
ance of air at every opportunity. Thus treated, they will flower
in late spring and summer.

Tree or Perpetual Carnations. — These are winter bloomers
with those who have a warm greenhouse, and consequently they
form a very valuable class. They are free-flowering, bright in
colour, and fragrant. They are propagated by cuttings, and it
is desirable to strike these in bottom heat in winter, because
then the young plants will flower the following winter. If
the cuttings are not struck before spring, and that without
bottom heat, they may not be strong enough to bloom before the
second winter. The cuttings should consist of side shoots, which
may be inserted round the side of a pot, and transferred singly
to 3-inch when rooted. From these they may be transplanted to
5 or 6 inch pots when the smaller ones are filled with roots. In
the spring they may have a frame, but they will be safe enough
out of doors in summer, if stood on a bed of ashes. Before
they are six inches high the top should be pinched out to cause
side shoots to form, and about the end of June they may be

THE CAKNAT1ON 211

stopped again. This will insure compact, free-flowering, bushy
plants. The same compost as advised for Selfs will do.

American Carnations. — These, like the Trees, are winter and
spring bloomers. They are, indeed, a section of Trees, but in
some respects they are superior. They have larger flowers, and
much longer stems. The latter is a strong point in their favour,
because it enables them to be used in decoration without wiring.
They may be propagated from cuttings, potted, and treated gener-
ally like the Trees, but the writers prefer the American plan of
forming a bed for them in the house, and planting them out.
It saves the trouble and expense of potting. They fix strings
across the bed, about a foot above the surface of the soil, to tie
the flower-stems to. With an intermediate house temperature,
say a minimum of fifty to sixty degrees in winter, blooms will
be forthcoming in a long succession during winter and spring.
It is possible to get them at Christmas.

THE DAHLIA

FEW garden flowers have a more loyal following than the Dahlia.
Even in those days, apparently remote, yet in reality quite recent,
when Cactus and single varieties were practically unknown, and
when such epithets as "stiff" and "lumpy" could be applied to
Dahlias with a certain measure of justice, they had a band of
supporters which never wavered in its fealty. When the Rose-
lover criticised the Dahlia as a flower lacking in grace, and the
Carnation enthusiast commented on its want of perfume, the
faithful had to maintain a discreet silence, but they gave their
favourite flower the same unswerving allegiance that they had
always done.

What is the secret of the hold on its admirers which the
Dahlia seems capable of exercising? When we find a human
being who is able to seize, and retain, the admiration of a large
number of his fellow-creatures, we expect to find something in
him at once uncommon and worthy. Making due allowance for
the fact that the Dahlia had established itself in this country
before some of our modern favourites fairly began their course,
and thus secured an advantage of no light character among a
people remarkable for their tenacious conservatism, it is only fair
for its critics to acknowledge that it would never have done
this if it had not real garden merit. Well, we can say several
things in the Dahlia's favour. In the first place, it is a plant of
very free growth. There is no namby-pambyism about it. It
does not take half the summer to prepare for growing and the
other half to prepare for flowering. Provided that it is raised
sturdily and given good soil, it buckles to its task at once, and

212

THE DAHLIA 213

goes ahead with the most refreshing vigour. This is one thing
about the Dahlia which growers of it like. They derive an
immediate reflex glory from it. They see it extending healthily
from day to day, and their hearts warm to it. They are able to
point the bed of Dahlias out to their friends with pride and
satisfaction. There is something to see about it. A collection
of Dahlias is like a family of sturdy, ruddy children. It stimu-
lates the instincts of parenthood.

A second strong point about the Dahlia is its great array of
bright and cheerful colours. Robust in everything, it is not least
so in its tints. Here is a vivid scarlet, here a brilliant carmine
or a rich crimson, here again a pure white, a clear yellow, a deli-
cate blush, a bright rose. Blue we do not find, but maroon we
do. All are not Selfs. Some are bicolors, and there is a section
with flaked flowers, the markings of which are both singular and
pleasing.

Already we see that the Dahlia is quite a John Bull type of
plant, with its sturdy vigour, its bluff directness, its pushful
pertinacity. But there are more things than these in its favour.
Its flowers fall naturally into harmonious forms. They mould
themselves on true lines. The florets unfold, not in a confused
mass, but in an ordered series, one overlapping the other, so that
the finished flower has perfect contour.

It was the large size, admirable symmetry, and clear colouring
of the Dahlia which led to its acceptance as a "florist's flower."
A coterie of growers specialised it. They formed a Dahlia society.
It was useless, after that, for the critics of the Dahlia (and they
have always been both persistent and numerous) to attempt to
overthrow it. "Lumpy" it might be; scentless it certainly was.
No matter, it was enthroned as a " florist's flower " ; and although
it might, nay must, pass through vicissitudes, it was as stable as
the dynasty itself.

The specialists unfurled their flag over the double Dahlia,

214 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

which they divided into two sections, respectively "Show" and
"Fancy." Self-coloured blooms, or those with the colour deepening
along the edge of the flower, were Shows, and flaked blooms
were Fancies. The latter term was a better one than the former,
for, as a matter of fact, both sections have a recognised exhibition
standing of nearly equal value ; and both therefore, in the practical
sense, are "show" flowers. The Dahlia stalwarts should have
called their one-coloured flowers Selfs, and their parti-coloured
flowers Fancies ; then the position would have been a little clearer.
But they did not, and it is too late to speak of a change now.

When the Cactus and single Dahlias were improved into
great classes, the old school could, an it had cared to do so, have
scored very heavily over Dahlia detractors. "Lumpy! devoid of
grace I" it could have cried in triumph. "What flowers can you
find more full of elegance than these?" But it did nothing of
the kind. It displayed a most charming generosity. Or was it
(as some have put it) that it was itself more than a little cold
towards the new-comers, and disposed to regard them as inter-
lopers? Was it a little purblind, and did it fail in prophetic
vision to the extent of seeing no future for the fresh classes? (We
only speak of the single Dahlia as "fresh" in the florist's sense;
botanically it is an old flower.) If the latter was the case, the
Dahlia-lover of the Old Guard certainly missed an opportunity,
and displayed great want of foresight. The Dahlia became a new
flower from the time that cross-fertilisers took the Cactus and
single-flowered types in hand and made great sections of them.
It was no longer a specialist's flower and nothing else. It was
no longer a mere show flower. It became a great flower-garden
plant for the million.

It is likely that but for the improvement in these two beau-
tiful sections the Dahlia would have declined in favour. Its old
supporters would have clung to it as long as they lived, but as
they died out gaps would have been left in the ranks, which new

THE DAHLIA 215

adherents were not there to fill up. Thus each succeeding year
would have seen a smaller army. We take this view because we
note the advance of garden Roses, Sweet Peas, Chrysanthemums
and Michaelmas Daisies, the rivalry of which with Dahlias would
have grown keener and keener every year. As it is, the Dahlia
has taken a fresh lease of public favour. There are more growers
for show than ever there were. True, the exhibitions have changed
their character somewhat. The classes for Show and Fancy
flowers are not so important as they used to be, while those for
Cactus varieties have grown greatly in interest ; but shows are at
least as big as they were in the old days, and they are certainly
more varied and beautiful. There has been a tenfold increase in
the number of people who cultivate Dahlias as garden plants.
People grow Cactus Dahlias who never would have grown a Show
variety. And thus recent developments have strengthened the
Dahlia enormously. It ranks well among the first half-dozen
plants of the flower garden — a state of affairs that could not have
been expected in the last quarter of the nineteenth century.

The Dahlia came to us from Mexico in 1789, so that it is
quite an old plant in British gardens. Its name was chosen as
a compliment to a Swedish botanist named Dahl, but growers
did not pay him the additional compliment of pronouncing his
name correctly, and so confusion threatened to grow up with an
existing genus called Dalea, doubtless in honour of a person
named Dale. Dahl — Dale; Dahl-ia — Dale-a. Surely the names
suggest different pronunciations? But no. Dahl-ia was mispro-
nounced as though it were Dale-a. An attempt was made to
change the name, and it was called Georgina. According to some
authorities, this was due to an error on the part of a German
botanist. Others attribute it to the fact that purists were irritated
about the mispronunciation. In the end Dahlia was adhered to
in this country, inaccurate pronunciation and all. That no real
trouble arose may be attributed to the fact that the genus Dalea

216 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

is an obscure and unimportant one; but the sticklers were never
quite satisfied, and to this day one meets with an occasional person
who clings (somewhat pedantically) to the true pronunciation.

The original species is called by botanists variabilis, on account
of the variability of the colour, which was generally either crimson
or purple. But this was not the first name given to it. In the
first place, it was called snperflua, on account of the central florets
differing from the outer ones. At different parts of its career the
plant enjoyed other specific names — crocata, frustranea, and pinnata
— so that altogether the Dahlia has had a somewhat troubled time
with that much-sinning sect, the plant-namers. A philosopher
once remarked that a man of many aliases should be avoided as
a dangerous character, but a plant with several names should be
sought after, as it was probably something both uncommon and
desirable. This was certainly true of the Dahlia. Other species
were introduced. A notable one was coccinea, with scarlet flowers,
which also came from Mexico. As in the case of the sister species,
several names were given to it, such as bidentifolia, Cervantesii,
and frustranea. That of coccinea is simply in allusion to the
colour. We use the word "notable" in connection with this
species, because, with variabilis, it is certainly a parent of our
modern garden Dahlias. Merckii (otherwise glabratd) is remark-
able for the same reason. This has lilac (sometimes white) and
yellow flowers. It came from Mexico in 1839. These three
species were doubtless crossed, and the progeny intercrossed. As
in the case of other important garden plants, a great deal of the
work of fertilisation was done by trade florists for commercial
purposes, and this class is notoriously prone to keep its operations
secret. For this reason it is doubtful if there is any record of
real value dealing with the course of crossing which resulted in
the production of the beautiful Dahlias which we possess to-day.

Another very important species must have special mention,
and that is Juarezii, which came from Mexico in 1872. The

THE DAHLIA 217

importance of this species, which bears scarlet flowers, lies in the
fact that it was the parent of our great modern class of Cactus
Dahlias. Several years passed before the public took much notice
of it, and a great many more before the florists secured new
varieties of sufficient merit and distinctiveness as to command
the earnest attention of the flower-loving public ; consequently,
although a considerable time has elapsed since the first Cactus
Dahlia appeared, it is, as a class, quite modern.

Opinions may differ as to whether the single or the Cactus
section did the more towards making the Dahlia the popular flower
which it is now. Certainly the single, in its improved forms,
became extremely popular in the last quarter of the nineteenth
century, and did a great deal to spread a love for Dahlias before
the Cactus class had developed. But there is no comparison
between the two now. The Cactus has far outstripped the single,
as it has every other class. It has a great advantage over the
single in the more lasting quality of its flowers. The single is
undeniably beautiful and graceful, but its value both for garden
decoration and cutting is marred by the comparatively short life
of the flowers.

The Pompon, Bouquet, or Lilliputian class is one of great value,
and must not be overlooked, especially by those who are chiefly
concerned with the Dahlia as a flower-garden plant. It is dis-
tinguished by great freedom of blooming, considerable duration,
and strong flower-stems, which lift the beautiful little blossoms
well above the leaves, and so insure their being well displayed.
Herein it is unquestionably superior to the Cactus class. Many of
the most beautiful varieties in the latter section have short, thin,
weak flower-stems, which are incapable of lifting the blooms well
up above the leaves, and consequently they are not so effective on
their plants in the garden as they are on boards at the shows.
The Pompon is really a Show Dahlia in miniature — that is to say,
it has the form and colour of the Show, but is much smaller

(2,299) 15

218 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

in size. A Pompon is quite big enough if as large as a golf-
ball ; it is too big if larger than a tennis-ball. Great size is a
defect, not a merit. The flowers of the best Pompons are borne
in clusters. The colours are varied and brilliant.

There is a class of dwarf Dahlias in existence called the Tom
Thumb. It appeared somewhere about the year 1890, perhaps a
little earlier. The writers very well remember the interest which
it aroused on its introduction. The plants only grew about a foot
high, but the flowers were similar to those of normal plants. They
were mostly, if not entirely, single varieties. There seemed to be
an opening for such a class, especially for very small gardens,
but it did not prove to be very successful, principally owing to
the somewhat puny growth and few flowers. Plants can still
be got.

The early years of the twentieth century saw a class of Dahlias
originate in Holland which was called the Paeony-flowered. The
varieties are remarkable for the huge size and brilliant colours
of the flowers. They are borne on long, strong stems, which
display them to the utmost advantage. Lovers of refined flowers
look askance at these huge, vivid blooms, and stigmatise them
as coarse. Owners of large gardens who want brilliant breaks of
colour seem inclined to take to them. At the time of writing the
popularity of the Paeony Dahlias is rather a matter of promise
than of fact. So far only a few varieties have appeared, but
if there are signs of a brisk demand more will come, and that
quickly, for trade florists are wonderfully quick in seeing and
meeting a demand. Strange as it appears to the layman, they
seem able to multiply the varieties almost as quickly as cloth-
makers can evolve new patterns, or lace-makers produce new
designs.

The above do not exhaust the number of classes, although they
are the most important. There are also the Pompon Cactus, the
single Cactus, the Star, and the Decorative Dahlias. These are

THE DAHLIA 219

all small in numbers, but they have their interest, and command
a certain number of admirers.

As we have referred at some length to the various sections,
we may complete the subject by giving selections of varieties in
each, before proceeding to discuss culture. To some extent such
selections can only have a passing value, inasmuch as new varieties
are constantly appearing, and so far as exhibition growers are
concerned it is very important to keep in touch with the novelties.
Still, hints as to choice of sorts will be of service to two large
classes — those who grow for garden decoration, and those who
are beginning Dahlia cultivation, for whatever purpose. It is not
nearly so important for garden growers to buy novelties as it is
for exhibitors to do so; indeed, the former class will be wise to
make changes with caution. When it has found varieties which
are of real garden worth — sorts of good habit as well as of beauty
of bloom — it must keep to them until it has real proof that the
latest sorts have more than mere perfection of flower or freshness
of colour to recommend them ; it must not cast them out in favour
of a costly novelty on no better ground than that the latter looks
nice on a show board. Many make this mistake. How, it may
be asked, can it acquire knowledge without growing the sorts?
Well, lovers of Dahlias generally get into touch with each other
somehow. Experiences are exchanged. Information is dissemi-
nated through the National Dahlia Society, and through the horti-
cultural press. New Dahlias are seen at the different nurseries,
and notes can be taken of their behaviour in these places.

Speaking broadly, the amateur must not expect too much of
Show and Fancy Dahlias as garden plants pure and simple. He
should expect to get his best garden effects from the Cactus,
Pompon, single, and Paeony-flowered sections. There are, how-
ever, some large double Dahlias which are good from the garden
as well as the exhibition point of view, and those shall have places
in our lists.

•220

BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

SHOW DAHLIAS

A good Show Dahlia must be quite round, exhibit no central
ball or "eye," and have rolled-in (quilled) florets.

Crimson King, crimson.

David Johnson, salmon, rose shading.

Ethel Britton, white and purple.

John Walker, white.

Merlin, orange.

Mrs. Gladstone, blush.

Mrs. Jefford, yellow.

Mrs. Slack, blush and purple.

Perfection, buff.

Queen of the Belgians, cream.

R. T. Rawlings, yellow.

Spitfire, scarlet.

FANCY DAHLIAS

A good Fancy Dahlia must, like the Show, be round, eyeless,
and have quilled florets. It always has two colours, generally one
striped or flaked through the other, but sometimes with a clear
white tip, as in the well-known variety Peacock.

Comedian, orange and crimson.
Dorothy, maroon and fawn.
Gaiety, yellow and red, white tips.
Goldsmith, yellow and crimson.
Matthew Campbell, buff and crimson.

Mrs. N. Halls, scarlet, white tip.
Mrs. Saunders, yellow and white.
Novelty, rose, purple flakes.
Peacock, maroon, white tip.
Prince Henry, lilac, purple stripes.

CACTUS DAHLIAS

A good Cactus Dahlia must have a round flower, but with the
tips of the florets apart, owing to their coming to a point. Each
must be tubular, not quilled. The flower must be full and high
in the centre, not flat.

Alpha, blush, flaked purple.
Amos Perry, crimson.
Britannia, salmon pink.
Effective, amber.
Etna, reddish lilac.
Eva, white.

Florodora, crimson.

H. F. Robertson, yellow.

Mrs. H. L. Brousson, salmon.

Pearl, pink, white tips.

Reggie, maroon.

Spitfire, scarlet.

THE DAHLIA

221

POMPON DAHLIAS

A good Pompon Dahlia must have small, round flowers, with
quilled florets, and show no eye.

Bacchus, crimson.
Buttercup, yellow.
Guiding Star, white.
Jessica, amber, red edge.
Nerissa, rose, silver edge.

Phoebe, golden orange.
Spitfire, scarlet.
Sunny Daybreak, apricot.
Tommy Keith, red, white tip*.

SINGLE DAHLIAS

A good single Dahlia must have a circular flower of eight
broad florets, each rounded, not pointed, at the extremity, and all
slightly overlapping each other.

Beauty's Eye, mauve, crimson ring.
Columbine, rose, orange shading.
Formosa, crimson, yellow centre.
Leslie Seale, lilac.

Miss Roberts, yellow.

Polly Eccles, fawn, red centre.

The Bride, white.

POMPON CACTUS DAHLIAS

Coronation, vivid scarlet.

Little Dolly, deep pink, shaded

mauve.
Modesty, flesh.

Peace, white.
Titus, yellow.
Tomtit, rosy pink.

SINGLE CACTUS
These have twisted, incurved florets, and are very quaint.

Althea, crimson.
Brenda, yellow.

Ivanhoe, rose.
Jeanie Deans, orange.

DECORATIVE DAHLIAS

These are flatter than typical show flowers, but the florets are
too round for them to be accepted in the Cactus section, with
which some of them were originally identified.

Grand Duke Alexis, white. | Glare of the Garden, scarlet. | Spotless Queen, white.

222

BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

PAEONY-FLOWERED DAHLIAS
Large, loose flowers, abundantly produced.

Baronne de Grancy, white.
Dr. Van Gorkum, blush.

Germania, crimson.
Glory of Baarn, rose.

STAR DAHLIAS

Pretty, loose, freely borne flowers. The class is good for
garden decoration.

Jupiter, white, yellow edge. | Mars, white, scarlet edge. | Saturn, white, edged maroon.

Naturally, the effectiveness of the foregoing varieties as garden
plants will depend in great part on the treatment to which they

are subjected. A little thinning of both
growth and buds will often make for
improvement. We will now consider
the various points of culture.

Propagation. — The Dahlia is a tuber-
producing plant. When a Dahlia which
was planted in June, and which de-
veloped into a large, healthy plant in
the summer, is lifted in autumn, it
growths; c, c, good compost in which is found to have formed a cluster of

the tubers are started. .

what the beginner is at first disposed

to regard as peculiarly formed roots, but which examination
shows to be thick, fleshy growths, with roots proper attached
to them. These growths are several inches long, range from an
inch to two inches thick, and are attenuated at the apex, where
they are attached in a cluster to the lower part of the stem of
the plant. They are, in effect, tubers, and are capable of pushing
stems and roots. For many years the propagation of Dahlias was
conducted almost exclusively by division, each component of the

PROPAGATING DAHLIAS
A, old tubers commencing to grow ; B, young

DAHLIA CUTTINGS IN POTS IN
A HOTBED

THE DAHLIA 223

cluster of tubers being grown as a separate plant. But a Belgian
florist discovered that if the "stools" were placed in heat in spring
buds would break from the neck, at the point where the tubers
were attached, and that if these were
allowed to develop into shoots about three
inches long, and then removed as cuttings,
strong plants could be made of them in
a few weeks. The plan speedily became
general, as a given variety could be in-
creased much more extensively by this
than the old means. When the young
shoot is removed it is not advisable to
take a portion of the old growth with it,
as that would prevent other shoots from

following. The cuttings may be inserted singly in sandy soil in
small pots, and put in bottom heat if that is available, otherwise
in a greenhouse or frame. Those who have no glass may propa-
gate by the slower method of dividing
and planting the tubers. Dahlias may
be raised from seed, and flowered the
first year; singles are not infrequently
propagated in that way, but it will not
keep named varieties true to colour.

Soil. — It is well understood that it
is useless to grow Dahlias in poor,
shallow soil — that is, if the best results

A shows a cutting being prepared for inser- j /-\ i • i_

tion ; B shows the cutting ready for are CXpCCted. One mUSt haVC HCh,

deeply cultivated land. The objection

may be urged against this that it induces the superabundant
growth which, in the Cactus varieties particularly, tends to the
flowers becoming half hidden ; but one must proceed very warily
in attempting to reduce growth by moderate cultivation — it is so
easy to get to the other extreme. On the whole, it is best to

DAHLIA CUTTINGS

224 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

make sure of a healthy, vigorous plant by digging the soil two or
three spades deep, and working in a dressing of decayed manure.

The Dahlia loves plenty of good food,
and it loves moisture. A heavy soil will
suit it better than a light one.

Planting. — In mild districts Dahlias
may be planted early in May, but they
are tender, and no risks must be run.
If the young plants are growing health-
fully in their pots, and are fully venti-
lated throughout the spring, they will take
no harm until June, but it is advisable
DAHLIA CUTTINGS INSERTED to plant them at the beginning of that
A shows a cutting inserted singly in a month, or they may become pot-bound.

small pot ; B shows how to insert J

three or more in large pots, i.e. If the grower has good plants and has

6-inch ones.

prepared his ground liberally, he should
anticipate vigorous growth and allow plenty of room. Six feet
from plant to plant will not be too much. At the same time
that he puts them in he should insert
supports in the form of stout stakes
standing a clear four feet out of the
ground. These look rather obtrusive at
first, but they cannot very well be put
in at a later stage without injuring
the roots. The soil should be slightly
basined around the stem, not mounded.
In the one case, what liquid is supplied
is sure to get in ; in the other, part of it
may run away.

Training. — While vigour is desirable
on the ground that it promises free flowering and fine blooms,
some restriction may be necessary. Those whose object is a
limited number of fine flowers will be wise to reduce the main

PLANTING DAHLIAS

How to plant old tubers and fix stakes
before replacing the soil.

NASTURTIUMS
By A. Fairfax Muckley

THE DAHLIA 225

stems to four in the case of the Show, Fancy, and Cactus
varieties. Singles and Pompons should be allowed more freedom.
The side branches may be drawn a little away from the central
shoot, and given short stakes of their own. The advantage of
this plan is that it effectually prevents overcrowding, and insures
the development and display of the flowers. Staking and tying
must be thorough, or the first gale may work havoc.

Disbudding. — Those who want exhibition blooms must reduce
the buds to one — the central or crown — when two or more come
together, as is often the case. Side-shoots with flower-buds will
probably break from the stems, but these must be pinched out at
once. It will be understood that severe disbudding is no more
desirable than thinning of shoots in the case of the Pompons, as
it will have the effect of causing them to produce large flowers,
and these are not wanted. It does not follow that the first buds
which show should be kept for exhibition ; they may come too
early. This is a matter upon which it is very difficult to advise
the beginner, because the dates of shows differ, and so does the
rate of progression of the buds, the latter being affected by weather
and local circumstances. It is well to have more than one plant
of each variety, and to have buds in various stages.

Slugs and Earwigs. — It is hard to say which is the worse of
these two pests. The former is troublesome in early summer,
when the plants are young; the latter later on, when they have
developed and the buds have formed. Slugs may be kept away
by the use of lime, either scattered round the plants in a dry
state, or watered on at night. Or they may be trapped with heaps
of brewer's grains. Earwigs principally feed at night, and hide by
day ; hence the plan of inverting small flower-pots, with a little
hay stuffed in to form a nest, on the top of the stakes, and
examining them daily.

Protection for Show Flowers. — The last two or three weeks
before a show constitute a critical time in the career of exhibition

226 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

Dahlias. Not only is it necessary to take great care that earwigs
do not attack the expanding flowers, but the blooms must be pro-
tected from the weather. Fierce sun may hurry the flowers on
too fast, and affect their colours. Special shades are made, and
the grower should inquire about them from the florist from whom
he purchases his plants. If the nurseryman does not sell them
himself, he will be able to advise what kind to get, and where to
get them.

Dahlias in Autumn. — In a cool, mild, moist autumn the
Dahlias may remain in beauty until November, but the first sharp
frost that catches them will blacken the foliage and stop the

growth. When this happens it is use-
less to retain them, as they will never
recover, but will die quite away. In
view of the fact that they are un-
sightly in their tarnished state, the
sooner they are cut down the better.
The stem may be severed just above
the ground, and the top growth
cleared away. Some growers do no
more than this, and let the roots lie in the ground throughout
the winter. No harm will follow if the soil is warm and friable,
but in cold, clay, damp soils the tubers may decay. It is decidedly
safer to lift them, and after letting them stand upside down on
their stumps for a day or two, in order to facilitate the escape
of moisture, to store them. They pass the winter best in a dry,
frost-proof place. If increase is not desired, and nothing but
garden decoration is thought of, the stools may be replanted
intact in spring, and with a certain amount of growth-thinning
they will give fairly satisfactory results ; moreover, they will flower
early, if that is considered an advantage. But those who aim at
securing the strongest plants and the best flowers will raise fresh
plants from cuttings annually in the way previously advised.

STORING DAHLIAS

A, B, stools stored under stages or arches ;
C, mats suspended for protection.

SWEET PEAS

EVERYBODY loves the gay, the fragrant Sweet Pea; and a con-
siderable number specialise it, as other people do Roses and
Chrysanthemums.

It is not surprising that the plant should enjoy great favour,
because it has very real merits. It is a vigorous grower, is hardy,
thrives on most soils and in most districts, is fairly free from
serious enemies, is readily raised from seed, is inexpensive, is
suitable for indoor and flower-garden culture as well as for room
decoration, will thrive in town and suburban gardens, remains
long in beauty, and has beautiful flowers with a wide range of
colours, exhaling a delicious perfume.

There are few plants of which as much as this could be said.
Some have flowers of rare beauty and fragrance, but are difficult
to grow, or expensive, or so subject to the attacks of insects and
fungi as to be almost "more bother than they are worth."

The Sweet Pea, Lathyrus odoratus of botanists, is a compara-
tively old plant, having been introduced into Great Britain upwards
of two hundred years ago. We have not space to trace its history
an'd progress step by step, nor would such a course be quite germane
to this work. Those who have so deep an interest in the flower
as to be desirous of making themselves acquainted with every
detail of its career may be advised to study the publications of the
National Sweet Pea Society, a body which has disseminated much
valuable information about the Sweet Pea.

We may say, however, that the development of the flower went
on very slowly for upwards of one hundred and fifty years. New
varieties were introduced at long intervals; indeed, there is no

2Z7

228 BEAUTIFUL FLOWEKS

parallel case, among popular modern flowers, to the tardy develop-
ment of the Sweet Pea.

There is a distinct physiological reason for this. Plants have
different sexual systems. The majority have both sexes united in
one flower, and the organs of fertilisation are mature when the
flower is expanded, thus affording scope for cross-fertilisation by
insect agency, bees and other insects passing from flower to flower,
and conveying pollen on their bodies from the anthers of one to
the stigma of another. The Sweet Pea belongs to this majority,
but the organs are mature while it is yet in the bud stage, and
before it expands, with the result that self-fertilisation is inevitable.

It is because the Sweet Pea had this peculiarity (and the fact
is certainly uncommon) that varieties multiplied very slowly. Had
the flower been of the ordinary class it is quite certain that new
varieties would have come more quickly, because cross-fertilisation
through external agency would have come into play, with its usual
far-reaching effects.

Much has been written respecting the possibilities of the Sweet
Pea being cross-fertilised by means of insects. It is fully recognised
that if cross-fertilisation is to take place at all it must be through
the action of some insect which has learned how to penetrate the
defences of the flower, or by wind conveying pollen to exposed
organs. Observers have recorded the visits of bees to undeveloped
blossoms, and of their getting access through the "keel" (the sac
formed by the infolding of the lower petal). But there is no
certainty that the flower had not " selfed " (i.e. become self-
fertilised) beforehand : probably it had. Again, growers of Sweet
Peas are quite familiar with a small black beetle, about ^ inch
long, which crawls about the flowers, and probably gets into
the buds. It is possible that this little insect could convey
pollen from one flower to another ; but even if it did, there
is the probability that self-fertilisation had taken place before the
transference of pollen had an opportunity of exerting any influence.

SWEET PEAS 229

The fact that "selfing" takes place at such an early stage in
the development of the flower should teach those who wish to
obtain new varieties by transferring pollen from one flower to
another themselves that they must be on the alert directly the
plant forms buds. If a flower is emasculated (that is, deprived of
its petals and reduced to its central organs) and the anthers are
removed before the pollen is ripe, selfing cannot take place. And
if then pollen is conveyed from another bud when it is ripe, and
placed on the stigma of the emasculated bud when it has become
viscid, cross-fertilisation will probably take place. The seed that
results when the flower has become a pod and the pod has
matured, may yield plants that produce flowers having the char-
acters of both parents.

The modern history of the Sweet Pea began in 1870, when a
private gardener of Scottish extraction, named Henry Eckford, who
had a taste for crossing flowers, selected the Sweet Pea as one
on which to operate. His successes were numerous. In a few
years he had added a considerable number of beautiful novelties
to the existing list of varieties, and his work went on until the
flower was developed, alike in size and diversity of colour,
into one of the most remarkable of all our popular garden
favourites.

Mr. Eckford's successes set others at work, and novelties poured
in from various sources. The colours had been so multiplied and
enriched, indeed, and the size and substance of the flowers so
greatly increased, that it seemed as though finality had almost
been reached. However, in 1901 a startling break appeared. The
Sweet Pea may be said to consist of three parts — an upright back
petal, called the " standard " ; two lower side petals springing from
the base, called the "wings"; and the "keel" aforementioned. The
standard is the most conspicuous part of the flower, and on its
quality depends in a great measure the merit of the whole flower.
Now, this large upright petal was a smooth, even structure. It

230 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

may or may not have had a notch at the upper central part of
the flower; in either case it was smooth. The 1901 novelty de-
parted from this smooth outline, and was deeply waved or frilled.
The variation was not only unique, but extremely beautiful, and
experts saw at once that an entirely fresh charm had been added
to the Sweet Pea.

The newcomer appeared in the garden of Earl Spencer, at
Althorp Park, Northampton, and was called by the head gardener,
Silas Cole, under whose care it developed, " Countess Spencer."
In colour it was a soft pink — a most pleasing shade, equally
attractive under natural and artificial light.

Almost simultaneously a somewhat similar break occurred in
a market garden near Cambridge, and was called by the owner,
W. J. Unwin, ''Gladys Unwin." It was not so fine a flower as
Countess Spencer, and the colour was much paler.

Two great points of interest arose respecting these novelties :
(i) Would the wavy character persist? (2) Was it the result of
cross-fertilisation, or a freak of nature — a "sport"? As regards
the first, it has to be recorded with sorrow that Countess Spencer
proved to be fickle. The variety did not revert wholly, or even
mainly, to the plain standard, but it threw different flowers, some
plain, others frilled. In the florist's phrase, it was " unfixed," that
is, the new character was not a definite and unalterable feature.
New varieties raised by crossing Countess Spencer were also
unfixed. On the other hand, Gladys Unwin and its offspring
remained true.

With respect to the origin of Countess Spencer and Gladys
Unwin, various statements and hypotheses have appeared. It has
been definitely stated that the former resulted from the artificial
pollination of certain varieties, one of which was the old, plain
standard pink Prima Donna; and that Gladys Unwin came with-
out any such intervention on the part of man in a row of Prima
Donna. Both, admittedly, came through the medium of the variety

SWEET PEAS 231

last named ; and it is perhaps the only thing that we can feel
quite certain about.

How can a natural crossing in a Sweet Pea have occurred, it
may be asked, since we have seen that the flower protects itself
against cross-fertilisation by the early maturity of its organs, and
by its structure? Well, one or two buds may have been mal-
formed, and permitted a bee to gain access to their interior before
they had become selfed. Be that as it may, we now have a large
number of colours with the waved or Spencer form, some of which
come quite true, while others are still unfixed.

The frilled Sweet Pea may be described as the modern type,
and with it came increased size. The best varieties of the present
day come with four large flowers on each stem.

The range of colours is great, but not quite complete. We
have blues of various shades, reds of different tints, whites, striped,
veined, and splashed flowers, Picotee-edged forms, bicolors, and
so on ; but we still lack a rich yellow. Curiously enough, the
nearest approach to real yellow has not come in the self or one-
colour varieties, but in those in which the yellow exists only as a
groundwork. However, the fact that we can get near it at all is
encouraging, and there is much ground for hope that the yellow,
which has baffled raisers for so long, will eventually come, and in
a deep, rich form. It has to be remembered that raisers were at
work a great many years before they developed a true scarlet.
There are now several of this brilliant tint.

In dealing with the culture of the Sweet Pea we may consider
by turns the ordinary amateur, who merely wants to have a bright
display of flowers in his garden for a few weeks in summer, and
the specialist, who wants to have flowers continuously for several
months, and to produce them in the highest state. Both classes
have to be reminded that the plant is a hardy annual — that is, it
grows from seed out of doors, blooms, ripens its seeds, and dies
within a year. To be strictly in touch with facts we must state

232 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

that culture has gone a little beyond this, and by raising plants
under glass in September, growing them under glass throughout
the winter, planting them out in rich soil in spring, growing them
in a moist climate and constantly cutting the flowers before they
had time to ripen seeds, has kept the plants growing and flowering
for fourteen months. Further, it is possible to propagate Sweet
Peas by cuttings — a method of increase which can be practised
with very few annuals. Still, a hardy annual the plant is.

Dealing first with the seed, this ripens on the plants in summer,
earlier or later according to the time of sowing and the weather.
Those who grow for seed often find themselves at a disadvantage
if the plants go on growing right through the summer, because
the weather at the end of summer may not be favourable for
ripening. On this account they do not prepare very rich, moist
soil, and persist in cutting the flowers ; but use ordinary soil, and
are quite satisfied if the plants only grow four feet high, and go
out of bloom and into pod in July or early August.

It will be seen from this that the interests of growers for seed
and of cultivators for prolonged garden beauty are not served by
the same cultural methods. It is possible, of course, to serve
both purposes fairly well, but it needs a little give and take. In
the main, growers of Sweet Peas will be wise to decide at the first
whether garden display or seed production is the principal con-
sideration. Amateurs at all events will be well advised to let
seed-saving fall into second place, or even be abandoned altogether.
Seed is cheap, and as a rule is more reliable when bought from
a recognised dealer than when saved at home. Those who par-
ticularly want to save seeds of one or two varieties should cease
picking flowers from a few plants in July. These will soon form
pods, which will change colour in August. Should this month
be wet and dull, so that the plants break into fresh growth and
bloom instead of finishing off the crop, the plants may be drawn
from the ground or cut off at the soil level, but left hanging on

PANSIES
By Marie Low

SWEET PEAS 233

the sticks. The seeds can be gathered just before the pods split
open.

The period and manner of sowing may differ considerably. It
is not an uncommon plan to sow the new
crop of seed soon after it is ripe in the open
ground, with a view to getting early flowers
the following year. As success is uncertain,
amateurs should abstain from sowing seed of
expensive sorts in this way ; but there is no
reason why cheap varieties, or mixed seed,
should not be sown in September or October.
Success is most likely to follow in light,
warm, well-drained soil. In stiff, cold soils
failure is common. In any case slugs are
apt to take a heavy toll of the young plants A- A> circles drawn «* in- in

diameter; B, circles 4 ft.

in spring, and often ruin autumn-sown crops

altogether, unless they are attacked resolutely

in turn. (See later remarks on enemies of Sweet Peas.) The

ground for autumn-sown seeds should
be well dug and manured, and they
may be covered with three inches of
soil.

The time of sowing the main out-
door spring crop varies with the
weather and the state of the soil. Any
time from the middle of March to the

SWEET PEAS-SOWING SEEDS IN DRILLS middle of April will do. More COtt-

sideration should be devoted to the
state of the soil than to the progress of
the calendar. It is unwise to sow when the soil is very cold and
wet, as a result of snow or continuous rain. So long as the soil
is sodden and inclined to cling, the seed is best in the packets.
Directly the soil, while moist, gets into a freely crumbling state,

(2,299) ] f>

SWRET PEAS— SOWING SEEDS
IN CLUMPS

apart ; C, holes for seeds or
plants.

A, A, drills 14 in. wide, 2 in. deep; B, space
between drills, 6 ft wide.

234 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

sowing may be proceeded with. In case of doubt the cultivator
should compress a handful of soil from just below the surface in
his clenched hand, and then, relaxing the pressure and opening his
fingers, observe whether the soil clings closely, almost as putty
would, or falls away readily, leaving only a few moist particles
adhering. In the latter event the soil is in a suitable state for

sowing.

Whoever wishes to achieve real success in growing the beautiful
and fragrant Sweet Pea will devote special consideration to the
preparation of the site. Soil that is merely dug and manured in
the manner practised by cottagers for growing Cabbages will not
produce flowers of the finest quality for several consecutive months.
True, there are soils of such natural quality that they will grow
anything well, but they are few and far between, and even they
can be improved.

First, however, a word as to site. There can be no doubt
that the Sweet Pea is influenced almost as much by climate as by
soil. It enjoys humidity. Wherever there is a choice of sites,
a cool, moist one should be preferred to a dry one. It is notice-
able that, taking one season and one show with another, growers
in the north of Great Britain do better than those in the south,
and those in the west better than those in the east. The moister
climate is partly accountable for this. We cannot all grow Sweet
Peas in the north and west ; many of us, unfortunately, have no
choice whatever as to site; but we may well keep the point before
us, and act upon it whenever opportunity permits.

Deep cultivation plays an important part in the operations of
the most successful growers. They devote enormous care and
pains to the deepening and enrichment of the ground. This means
considerable labour, and some amount of expense ; but the one is
amply repaid, and the other fully recouped, by a few successes on
the show board. The ordinary grower — he who cultivates merely
for a home supply of bloom — will not go as far as the specialist ;

SWEET PEAS 235

but even the former should deepen his soil by bastard trenching,
because it will give him stronger plants and more and finer
flowers. He should remove the top soil from the ground where
he is going to grow the Sweet Peas to the full depth of a spade,
and then dig over the under soil to another full spade depth,
completely turning it. Before he replaces the top spit he should
spread on a dressing of good yard manure at the rate of two to
three barrow-loads to the square rod. By adopting this plan
a depth of at least eighteen inches of pulverised soil will be
secured.

It may be asked what should be done if the substratum is
not soil, but chalk or rock. In the former case the chalk may be
broken up with a pick, and garden refuse mixed with it before
putting on the manure and top soil. Further, the surface may be
heavily mulched with manure when the plants are growing. This
procedure gives a greater depth. In the case of rock the deepening
must be mainly through the medium of surface additions.

Labour for this preliminary groundwork can generally be best
spared in autumn or winter ; but it should be done in spring
rather than not at all. However close to the time of sowing or
planting that it is practised, it must have an important effect on
the crop. If done early the surface should be left rough and
lumpy, because if it were broken up at once into a fine tilth the
winter rains might cause it to settle down into a close mass.

The specialist will not content himself with bastard trenching,
but will shift at least three spades' depth of soil ; indeed, some of
the most successful men prepare a full yard in depth of thoroughly
pulverised, disintegrated, and manured soil. This means working
the plot in broad strips, and having two tiers about eighteen inches
wide each. The bottom soil is deeply dug and manured ; the lower
tier is turned on to it and manured in turn, and then the top tier
is thrown on to the second. The result of this is that the ground
is raised considerably above the surrounding level.

236 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

The question of manure is very important. There is nothing
better than decayed manure from old hotbeds, or worked-out
Mushroom beds. Failing this, a supply of good yard manure
should be secured a few weeks before it is wanted, and laid up in
a heap, with a layer of soil under it, to decay. If the ground is
dug and manured in autumn, and left rough as suggested, it may
be dressed with wood ashes whenever there has been a garden fire,
and with soot whenever the chimneys are swept. Some time during

February the following mixture of chemi-
cal manure may be spread on at the rate
of seven pounds per square rod : three
pounds of superphosphate, one pound of
steamed bone flour, one pound of nitrate
of potash, one pound of sulphate of potash,
and one pound of nitrate of soda. The
fertiliser may be scratched in with a rake
or lightly turned in with a fork.

If this course of soil culture and
manuring be followed there need be no

A, soil in pot with seeds sown ; B, soil fear of poor TCSUltS. Liquid manure,
to cover the seeds, I in. deep.

Young plants suked while growing supplied when the plants come into bloom,

in the pots. .

will further improve matters. A soaking

of a different kind every three days will be better than daily
driblets of one kind only. Liquid made from animal manure may
alternate with the special fertilisers sold by florists.

In modern Sweet Pea culture it is not thought wise to rely
upon outdoor sowings, whether made in autumn or spring. In
order to make sure of starting with very strong, healthy, well-
rooted plants, seed is sown under glass. The period of sowing
ranges from September to March inclusive. Some highly success-
ful growers sow singly in small (3-inch) pots in September, and
keep the plants in a cool house throughout the winter. As a
rule they only make three or four inches of growth before the

SWEBT PEAS— SOWING SEEDS IN
POTS

SWEET PEAS 237

winter comes on, and are easily protected with a few thicknesses
of newspaper in very severe weather. On no account should such
early raised plants be subjected to much heat, or they will become
long, drawn, and weakly.

February is a very good time to sow. One seed may be sown
in each 3-inch pot, or five seeds may be put equidistant in a 5-inch
pot. They will do quite well in a cool greenhouse or frame. If it
is desired to get very early flowers heat may be given to the seed-
lings, but in this case care must be taken to harden the plants in
a frame before they are put into the garden.

By adopting the plan of sowing under glass there is a practical
guarantee that every sound seed will give a good plant, which is
certainly not the case with outdoor sowing. This is important
when the cost of new varieties is considered.

The seedlings must be kept close to the glass in order to
prevent their becoming drawn and weakly. They will then grow
slowly but steadily, and keep very sturdy.

A suitable time for planting will probably be found from the
middle to the end of April. It should be done when the ground
is neither quite dry nor absolutely sodden, but just pleasantly
moist and crumbly. If, owing to bad weather, planting has to be
deferred, and the seedlings show tendrils in the frame, chop some
twigs out of the Pea sticks and set among them.

When planting out, turn the pot upside down with the
fingers of the left hand spread across the soil among the plants,
give the rim a sharp tap to loosen the pot, and then lift the
latter off. Do not shake the soil away from the roots, but
(assuming that several plants have been grown in each pot)
separate them gently with the soil adhering to the roots. There
will be no difficulty about this if the soil is moist. Six inches
apart will be a suitable distance to plant, and three inches to
cover. Freshly slaked lime may be scattered beside the plants to
keep slugs away.

238 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

Directly the plants begin to form tendrils — and they will do
this very soon after they are fairly established — the sticks which are
to support them should be placed in position. It is wise to order
these betimes, because then they are ready at the moment they
are wanted. Larch, Ash, Hazel, and Chestnut are all employed ;
the local supply generally governs the kind used. The main point
is that they should be tall and strong, so that when firmly fixed
they will be capable of supporting a heavy mass of plants. The
ends should be sharpened, and forced into the ground to a depth

of eight or nine inches. If the sticks
are set about ten inches apart in lines
twelve inches asunder on each side of the
plants, they will serve their purpose. The
side branches of the sticks will cross each
other, and the shoots can be interlaced.
It may be necessary to tie the plants
to the sticks while they are developing
the first thirty inches of main stem, but
this is easily done with raphia or green
raffiatape. Directly side-shoots begin to
form they will attach themselves tightly
to the sticks by means of the tendrils.

A plan of treating the plants which
is practised by one of the leading growers
with the object of getting a succession of prize blooms is worth
mentioning, and that is to pinch out the tip of the leading shoot
of every alternate plant when it has reached four feet high, serving
those left in the same way when they have reached a height of
six feet. This plan secures early and late flowers. Of course
the plants grow on again, and eventually reach a height of eight
to eleven feet.

In view of the beauty of Sweet Pea flowers for decorating
rooms, it is gratifying that cutting helps the plants to keep up

SWEET PEAS — EARTHING OP AND

STICKING
A, A, soil drawn up to young plants ; B,

stout stakes placed at each side of row
for support of sticks.

SWEET PEAS 239

a continuous supply; indeed, that object could hardly be secured
without it. Probably the pinks will be in most demand, because
they are so charming in rooms under artificial light; but the
grower must not pick from some plants and leave others. If he
desire all to keep on blooming throughout the summer he must
pick all regularly.

When there is a show in view it is a good plan to strip
the plants of all their flowers about a week beforehand, as this
ensures a supply of fine, fresh, bright blooms at the desired
time. Flowers that have to be transported in a cut state,
whether for private use, sale, or show, should be packed dry, and
without cotton-wool. If packed in a wet state they will become
spotted.

With reference to the use of Sweet Peas in vases, opinions
differ somewhat as to whether they look best associated with their
own or other foliage. Probably they never look better than with
their own leaves, but there is no objection to associating them
with carefully selected plants, such as Gypsophila paniculata or
the pretty Cloud Grass, Agrostis nebulosa. Both of these plants
can be grown from seed in the flower-garden. Indiscriminate
mixing of Sweet Peas with alien foliage, or with other flowers,
should be strictly avoided. The flowers are best gathered by
taking the base of the stem between finger and thumb and
making a combined squeezing and pulling motion ; by this means
the stem is drawn out of its socket.

Whether the plants are grown in rows or clumps may
depend upon local circumstances, and on the taste of the
cultivator. Some of the most successful growers have them
in rows, others in clumps. If the row system is adopted, a
long row may be made up of short blocks — perhaps only
four feet of each variety, if convenient. It may be noted in
passing, however, that for general garden effect rows of mixed
seed look best.

240 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

Clumps look charming when established in selected positions
in gardens. They may be placed on lawns, in herbaceous borders,
or at fixed intervals beside garden paths. The simplest way of
getting a clump is to plant in a circle, which may be from three
to nine feet across, according to the space available. The plants
can be supported with sticks or galvanised wire frames. A very
good plan of supporting clumps is to fix a tall, strong bamboo
cane upright as a centre-piece, set the sticks in a circle round it,
and tie their tips to the bamboo. This has a neat and finished
appearance.

The enemies of Sweet Peas make themselves felt from the
very first stage. Birds and mice may attack the seeds when sown
out of doors, and as a preventive the seeds should be moistened
with linseed oil and then rolled in red lead. Wireworm is very
fond of the seeds, and will sometimes find them out even when
they are sown in pots and put in a frame, working up through
the earth and entering the pots by means of the drainage hole.
Wireworm is the most troublesome in land from which turf has
been cut. It may be reduced by vigorous autumn cultivation,
and dressing with kainit at the rate of seven pounds per square
rod ; and in spring with a dressing of Vaporite at the same rate.
If it is found that the young plants go off when very small, slugs
may be suspected. As already mentioned, lime checks them, and
they can be reduced in numbers by placing traps in the form of
heaps of brewers' grains near the plants. Birds sometimes attack
the young plants. Twiggy shoots from the upper part of the
sticks check them if placed among the plants. In cases of serious
trouble from this source black thread must be strung just above
the plants.

Moles are sometimes very troublesome, not in making direct
attacks upon the plants, but in disturbing them by throwing up
mounds while burrowing in pursuit of worms, on which the mole
feeds. In this case the best plan is to buy a steel mole-trap from

SWEET PEAS 241

an ironmonger's, and set it in the run with gloved hands for the
mole has keen scent.

Later in the career of the plants they may be harassed by green
fly or the Pea Weevil. The former can be destroyed by spraying
with quassia water, made by soaking a handful of quassia chips in
a gallon of water for a few hours. The striped Pea Weevil (Sitones
lineatus) sometimes attacks the foliage, and lays eggs among the
roots, which hatch into whitish maggots a quarter of an inch
long. When the plants are growing vigorously under good
garden cultivation the weevil is not a very serious enemy, and
may be kept under by dusting the plants with soot occasionally
while moist.

As regards fungoid enemies, the mildew Erysiphe Polygoni
sometimes attacks the plants, and coats them with a grey mould.
It is the most likely to be troublesome when the plants are grow-
ing on damp, undrained soil ; or when they are checked by drought.
Two parts of flowers of sulphur and one part of ground lime may
be mixed together and dusted on. If yellow blotches are seen on
the leaves, which presently become covered with a greyish down,
pick off the growths and burn them. If other blotches show,
spray the plants immediately with a preventive composed of half an
ounce each of soft soap and sulphide of potassium dissolved in a
gallon of water. Greenish spots with a darker rim betoken another
fungus — Ascochyta Pisi. The preventive recommended for yellow
blotch may be tried.

In dealing with varieties it may be well to do so in con-
nection with the Classification scheme adopted by the National
Sweet Pea Society, and which was first proposed by ourselves.
It is a classification by colour. All the varieties of Sweet Peas
in general cultivation are separated into fixed colour sections. If
we give the various sections in one column, and selections of
plain and waved standard varieties in two others, the reader will
have the system and the best examples of it under his eye.

242

BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

CLASS.
White.

Crimson and scarlet.

Yellow and buff.
Dark blue.
Cerise.
Pink.

Orange shades.

Lavender.

Violet and purple.

Magenta.

Picotee-edged.

Mauve.

Maroon and bronze.

Striped and flaked (red

and rose).
Striped and flaked (purple

and blue).
Bicolor.
Marbled.

PLAIN STANDARD.

Dorothy Eckford, Finetta
Bathurst.

King Edward, Queen Alex-
andra.

James Grieve, Mrs. Collier.

Lord Nelson.

Coccinea.

Prima Donna.

Henry Eckford, St. George.

Lady G. Hamilton.
Duke of Westminster.
George Gordon, Captiva-

tion.
Dainty, Phenomenal.

Mrs. Walter Wright.
Black Knight, Hannah

Dale.
Jessie Cuthbertson.

Prince Olaf.

Jeannie Gordon.
Helen Pierce.

WAVED STANDARD.
Nora Unwin, Etta Dyke.

The King, George Stark.

ClaraCurtis, Paradise Ivory.

A. J. Cook (slightly).

Chrissie Unwin (slightly).

Countess Spencer, Con-
stance Oliver, Mrs. H.
Sykes (pale).

Helen Lewis, Nancy Per-
kin.

Frank Dolby (very slightly)t

Rosie Adams.

Menie Christie.

Evelyn Hemus, Elsie Her-
bert.

The Marquis.

Prince of Asturias, Silas
Cole.

Paradise Red-flake.

Princess of Wales.
Mrs. Andrew Ireland.

In connection with this question of varieties, it is important to
remind readers that the Sweet Pea is in the white-heat stage of
development, and new sorts are constantly appearing. Those who
are particularly interested in the flower should keep in touch with
the Society, and they will then learn about the newcomers as fast
as these appear.

A few closing words with regard to the dwarf Sweet Peas.
There are two sections — the Bush and the Cupid. The former
grow about two feet high, and only require a few short sticks.
They flower abundantly, and are well worth growing in small
gardens. The latter only grow a few inches high, and do not

SWEET PEAS 243

require any sticks at all. As far as flower is concerned they are
a replica of the ordinary Sweet Peas, and where they thrive they
make charming edgings. We grew them very successfully on a
low limey bank in a garden on clay and with a somewhat humid
climate. They have a pronounced weakness for casting their flower-
buds while still quite closed, and to such an extent is this carried
in some cases that the ground is littered with buds, and the plants
are without beauty. This peculiarity prevents the Cupids from
becoming popular.

ANNUALS

THAT large class of plants which botanists distinguish as " Annuals "
comprises some of the most popular of garden flowers. It embraces,
for instance, the Sweet Pea, and if it contained no other it would
possess distinction from the inclusion of this one plant alone.
But it also includes the ever popular China Aster, the fragrant
Ten-week Stock, the brilliant Poppy (some — others are perennials),
the perfumed Mignonette, the gay Godetia, the dear little blue
Cornflower, the pungent Nasturtium, the bright Candytuft, the
blazing Zinnia, the strident Mangold, and the Verbena-like Phlox
Drummondii. This, it will be admitted, is a powerful cohort.
Add .such others as the Chrysanthemum, the Convolvulus, the
Larkspur, the Night-scented Stock, the Salpiglossis, the Nemo-
phila, the Silene, and an idea can be formed of the blank which
there would be in gardens if the Annuals as a class were excluded
from them.

Every wise flower gardener will make himself acquainted with
at least a few kinds of Annuals. His forte may be herbaceous
borders, or he may give most of his attention to rock gardening;
none the less, he will find places which the annuals will fill, and
purposes which they will serve. For example, what can replace
the Night-scented Stock as a perfume yielder at eventide? Its
odour is delicious, and it remains in flower for at least four
months. Then the Sweet Pea, the China Aster, and the Ten-
week Stock are worth places in every garden. The first is alike
graceful, fragrant, and continuous in blooming. The second has
handsome flowers of a great variety of hues, and remains in beauty
throughout the summer. The third is both sweet and beautiful.

244

ANNUALS 245

A garden could be made attractive with no other flowers than
Annuals. We do not recommend the course, because we are fully
alive to the beauty of bulbs and the value of hardy perennials ; but
there can be no doubt that any person who chose to confine him-
self to Annuals, and was prepared to grow them really well, could
not only secure very beautiful garden effects, but could insure a
bountiful supply of appropriate flowers for room decoration. The
one real weakness that would attend the exclusion of bulbs and
hardy perennials would be the paucity of winter and early spring
flowers. From May onwards a good succession of bloom could be
had, which would reach its apogee from mid-July to mid-August.

The greatest of all Annuals — the Sweet Pea — is dealt with
separately in this work, and we need do no more now than note
its membership of the class with which we are dealing, and beg
readers to give it that attention to which its intrinsic merits render
it so richly entitled. The remainder may be dealt with in three
groups — hardy, half-hardy, and tender. The first and second are
almost exclusively cultivated out of doors, and the third under
glass, but there are a few exceptions to both rules.

Let us in the first place define an Annual. It is a plant which
begins and finishes its career within a year. It is sown, it blooms,
it ripens seed, it dies, within a period of twelve months. Any
plant which is raised in the spring of one year, blooms, lives
through the winter, with or without leaves, and blooms again the
following year, is not an Annual. In some circumstances certain
plants that are generally classed as Annuals do this, notably
Mignonette and Eschscholtzias ; but the cases are exceptional. A
plant may, of course, pass a portion of its existence in two suc-
cessive years, and still remain an Annual, so long as it does not
seed the first season. Thus Silenes, Nemophilas, and some others
are frequently sown in late summer with the object of getting
them to bloom in spring.

To complete definitions, a hardy Annual is one that passes the

246 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

whole of its career in the open air ; a half-hardy Annual, one that
is raised under glass and afterwards planted out ; a tender Annual,
one that lives out its life under glass.

Hardy and half-hardy Annuals may be used for bulb beds,
mixed borders, banks, and even paths where unjointed stones are
used. Some of the most important, notably Asters, make charming
beds without the support of any other plants ; but informality is
gained by associating them with other things. Thus, Asters may

be mixed with coloured Tobacco
(Nicotianas) or Salpiglossis, both
of which are taller and have a
lighter habit. The dwarf Stocks
make delightful borders. Phlox
Drummondii forms beds rivalling
those of Verbenas, which were
such great favourites for bedding
in years gone by. Poppies make

ANNUALS — SOWING SEEDS IN BORDERS , 1 • i 1 i /• • • i i

splendid breaks of vivid colour,

A shows how to prepare the ground for large clumps A

of Annuals; B shows how to arrange smaller ancj will thHvC On both light
clumps ; C shows how to arrange clumps of tall

Annuals near the back of the border ; D, grass and heavy Soils. The singles are
verge ; E, path.

ephemeral, but the doubles last long.

The rank and file of Annuals perhaps prove the most useful as
clumps near the fronts of mixed borders, but a few selected kinds
may be utilised to make up beds of themselves ; and if the hints
on culture which are to be given are followed they will probably
vie with any other beds in the garden. The objection that the
plants quickly lose their beauty does not weigh with us. They are
fugitive when badly grown, but not when well grown. Such things
as Clarkias, double white Matricaria (the single is a poor thing,
seeds tremendously, becomes a nuisance, and should therefore not
be admitted), Godetias, and double Poppies have done us yeoman
service in beds, flowering brilliantly and long. Look, too, at the
persistence of Nasturtiums. They grow right into the autumn

ANNUALS 247

unless hard frost cripples them, and as fast as new growth is
made it produces flowers.

An interesting and charming idea that we have seen carried out
is to form garden pathways with old flagstones, not laid closely
in parallel lines, if unbroken, but triangularly. Such stones are,
however, often broken at the corners, and this is well, because
soil spaces are left between them, and in these Portulacas are
sown. They are most brilliant flowers, and will thrive almost
anywhere, not in the least objecting to roasting sunshine. The
flowers may be sown a little to right and left of the centre of the
path, and they will not then get trodden out of existence.

There is yet another use to which many beautiful Annuals can
be put, and that is to cover porches, arches, pergolas, or to droop
from window-boxes. The Canary Creeper, Tropaeolum canariense
or peregrinum, is very popular, and the half-climbing forms of
Tropaeolum, such as some of the forms of Lobbianum, are extremely
useful. Then there are the Convolvuluses, the quaint Cobaea
scandens, and the pretty Maurandyas, Thunbergias, and Mina
lobata. One occasionally sees a pergola covered with a collection
of Ornamental Gourds, which are half-hardy Annuals, and may be
grown like Vegetable Marrows. They vary greatly in form and
colour. In the case of some varieties the fruits are of singular
shape, in others of rich colour. We know of more than one case
of pergolas being furnished in this way, and if the plan is open
to the charge of being somewhat fantastic, it is certainly not
without both interest and beauty.

Having indicated some of the uses to which Annuals may be
put, we may now pause to consider a few important cultural points,
and then give selections of the best kinds and varieties.

Dealing first with the soil, we may say that it presents a very
simple problem. Annuals do not require the deep, rich soil which
Roses and herbaceous plants demand ; indeed, it is a positive
disadvantage in the case of many, notably Nasturtiums, because it

248 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

causes growth so luxuriant that the plants flower poorly. There
are few classes of garden plants, whether fruit, flowers, or vegetables,
for which we would prefer a light, shallow soil to a heavy, deep
one, but the Annuals certainly constitute one. Even in the case
of shallow, dry soil overlying chalk — that bogey of the gardener —
we would say that the disadvantage lies with the heavy soil,
except for Sweet Peas. Mignonette is at its best and sweetest in
light, chalky ground ; it thrives to perfection, and blooms gloriously.
Clarkias, Godetias, Mallows, Sweet Sultans, Candytuft, Love-in-a-
Mist (Nigella), Larkspurs — all these will thrive in such land, at
which the Dahlia grower, for instance, would be horrified. The
pretty Love-in-a-Mist, generally regarded as an interesting, but
merely second-class, summer garden flower, becomes a plant of
real importance on chalk. It grows freely, flowers abundantly for
two or three months, and its blue is the clear, pellucid hue of
Italian skies.

We see, then, that as far as Annuals are concerned we may
easily be too kind. We may waste labour and manure. We may
make the plants grow too well — or, rather, too strongly. There is
no need whatever for digging more than a spade deep, and the
amount of manure used should not exceed the very modest
quantity of one barrow-load per square rod. But while the grower
should be scrupulously careful not to overdo the use of forcing
manures, he may with advantage draw upon chemical manures of
the class which encourage flowering rather than leaf production.
Of such are the phosphatic and potassic fertilisers. Of the former
bone flour may be named, and of the latter sulphate of potash.
An ounce of each of these to the square yard, spread on whenever
the ground is dug, but preferably in February or March, will be
beneficial, leading to the production of abundance of flowers, and
to the enrichment of their colours.

It is an excellent plan to rough-dig the ground in winter,
leaving the surface quite lumpy, and then to spread on some wood

VANDA SUAVIS
By A. Fairfax Muckley

ANNUALS 249

ashes and soot. Towards the end of March, or in the early part
of April, the surface may be raked down, and the soil will probably
fall at once into a fine tilth, admirably suited for the small seeds.
Stiff clay soil may require special care to get the desired tilth. It
will probably be necessary to watch the weather closely, and test
the soil frequently with the tools. Our experience with clay soils
is that they may be ripe for working down on one day, and
then, if the opportunity is lost, may not be in condition again
for several weeks. It will help to reduce very obstinate soils if,
at the time of the first digging, some old mortar rubbish, or the
sweepings from high-roads, are spread on.

If the Annuals are to be grown in beds to themselves, con-
sideration should be devoted to finishing the soil off neatly. Have
the sides raised above the surrounding grass, and clear of the
verge, so that a neat edge can be kept with the shears. A border
of some dwarf plant, such as Thrift, or Pinks, or an Annual like
the Sweet Alyssum (of which there is a very compact variegated
form grown under the name of Koeniga maritima variegatd), will
be an appropriate finish to the bed.

Coming to the arrangement of the plants in beds, they could
either be put in lines or clumps. We greatly favour the latter,
because they look more graceful and informal. If, however, the
grower prefers to sow in lines, he will find it convenient to get a
board about ten inches wide, and use it for getting straight rows.
He can form a drill by turning the rake on end, teeth outward,
along the edge of the plank, then simply turn the latter over and
draw another drill. This is quicker than constantly resetting a
garden line. Unless the flower gardener is very expert he should
not attempt to draw straight drills of any length by the eye alone.
Rows have a way of getting crooked when this is done.

With respect to clumps, the grower can do one of two things
— form a shallow saucer by a quick rotary motion with the palm
of his hand, or make a circle by pressing the rim of an inverted

(2,299)

17

250 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

flower-pot into the soil. In the latter case he can, of course,
form larger or smaller rings by using different sizes of pot.
Whichever plan he adopts, let him avoid getting the clumps too
close together. It is a mistake very easily made, especially in a
large bed. There seems to be such an immense area of soil that
it can never get filled. The rings or patches should be at the
least a foot apart for small things, and two feet for large ones.
The object should be to provide for a clear space up to the time

that the plants reach the flowering
stage, in order to facilitate keeping
down weeds and encouraging rapid,
healthy growth by the regular use of
the hoe.

There is room for the exercise of
considerable taste in associating the dif-
ferent plants in a bed of mixed Annuals.
The colours may be contrasted, for one
thing. Then, different height and habit
ANNUALS-SOWING SEEDS may be considered. It is not wise to

A shows how to sow seeds in drills ; B shows put fa\\ things in the centre and arrange

how to sow them in patches or clumps ; r

and C shows the seeds scattered thinly {foe Others in regular tierS tO the edge,

on the prepared soil.

as that may look stiff. Certainly we

would not so far depart from this — the common — plan as to have
short things in the centre and tall ones at the edges ; but a tall,
loose-growing plant may be used here and there to impart light-
ness to a group of short, compact plants. The amateur will see
this principle adopted in the flower-beds in the various public
parks and gardens, although the plants employed may not be
Annuals. For instance, he will see a Fuchsia, or a Grevillea,
drooping over a mass of compact Begonias.

The seed should be sown very thinly. If small, it may be
covered half an inch deep ; if large, an inch.

For some unexplained reason a practice has grown up of

ANNUALS 251

treating Annuals as though they differed from every other class
of plant in cultivation, and required no attention after sowing.
They are regarded as being all the better for being left severely
alone. Even if there were no such organism as a slug, and no
such cultural error as thick sowing, this would still be wrong ;
but as slugs and over thick sowing are both very common, they
in themselves afford reasons for giving the plants attention. One
thing, however, may fairly be said of Annuals, and it will appeal
to the amateur who has very little spare time for gardening in
summer, and that is, if the early treatment is all right, very little
attention of any kind will be wanted after June.

We strongly urge that the Annuals be regarded as real objects
of interest from the first, and regularly attended to. If a period
is chosen for sowing when the weather is mild and genial, from
the end of March to mid-April, and the soil is moist and crumbly,
seedlings should be visible in about ten days. If they do not
appear within a fortnight the grower should want to know the
reason why. We do not say that if seeds of Annuals do not
germinate within a fortnight there is necessarily something radically
wrong, because we have known seed lie dormant for six weeks in
a cold spring, and then germinate well. But we suggest that
tardy germination is a fair subject for investigation, particularly
if the ground is known to be infested with wireworm and leather-
jacket grubs. These greedy pests will eat off batches of seedlings
at the moment of germination, so that the plants never show
through the ground at all ; and often in such cases suspicion
fastens on the seedsman. There is very little bad seed sold
nowadays, but although seed dealers have improved, ground pests
have not. They are as bad as ever they were. In case of un-
explained losses in ground that is known to be infested (and soil
from which turf has been removed is almost certain to be) the
amateur should make a fresh sowing, and he should mix rape
dust with the soil.

252 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

The arch enemy when the seedlings have come through is the
slug. Both snails and slugs are fond of young Annuals, and will
often destroy a whole bed of them f i a few nights. These hungry
marauders come forth in force, wrtb appetites well whetted, in
spring. Now, thrushes are great lovers of them, and these birds
should be protected and encouraged, in spite of any damage they
may do to crops in the summer. Lime is a valuable deterrent of
slugs. They detest it in all forms, and it has no ill effect on
plants. It is perhaps best applied in the form of dry, freshly

slaked quicklime at night, when the
slugs are likely to be feeding. Two
applications should be made at inter-
vals of about twenty minutes, because
the slug can slough his skin and so
get rid of one dose of the hot powder;
but the second catches him at a hope-
less disadvantage, and finishes him off.
Lime water, made by putting a lump
of lime of the size of a cocoa-nut in

ANNUALS— THINNING-OUT SEEDLINGS . ,

, ... . , ... . a pail of water in the morning, and

A, watering clump of seedlings before thinning

is done ; B, the result of thinning.out. straining off the liquid at night, may

Plants growing sturdily.

be poured on the beds after dark, and

will thin the slugs down. Another way of reducing them is to
put heaps of brewers' grains near the beds as baits. Any slugs
or snails captured can be destroyed instantly by dropping them
into a vessel of brine.

If the seed has been sown thinly the task of thinning the
seedlings will not be a very irksome one. It may be done twice,
the first time when they are about an inch high, and the second
when they begin to crowd each other after being thinned to a
couple of inches apart. Few people are bold enough in thinning
seedlings. Or they are so economical in disposition that they do
not like to throw plants away. Both weaknesses must be over-

ANNUALS 253

come if the best results are to be secured. Very few Annuals
should be nearer than nine inches to each other when they come
into flower; and the amateur who makes it a rule to thin to that
distance the first year, and bases subsequent practice on the ex-
perience which he gains in his first season, will be successful.

Stopping or pinching need not, as a rule, be practised, because
the majority of the kinds will develop a naturally bushy habit if
they are thinly grown.

Hoeing among the plants is splendid practice. It takes but
a few minutes a week to run a hoe
among the occupants of a bed when
there is a clear space between the
plants, and some order in the arrange-
ment of them. Hoeing cleans and
aerates the soil, and promotes rapid
growth. Staking will not be required
in the majority of cases. If needed at
all it will be in connection with a few
tall, straggly things that are growing
in wind-swept spots. Sometimes one
bamboo or other stake attached to the
main stem will suffice. If not, it will
be advisable to chop a few spray ey
branches out of the tops of Pea sticks, and utilise them.

If there is one practice which conduces more than another to
continuous flowering, it is the picking off of fading flowers before
they have time to ripen seed. The logical conclusion from this, of
course, is that if flowers must be regularly cut it is just as well to
take them while they are fresh enough to be suitable for room
decoration, and so not only anticipate seeding, but make use of
the flowers. That is so. All Annuals are not suitable for vases,
but many are.

Watering will be advantageous in dry weather, but as regular

ANNUALS — STAKING

A shows how to stake weakly-growing
Annuals in clumps ; B shows how to
stake tall-growing Annuals; C shows
how to prepare the tall stakes, which
should be painted dark green.

254

BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

watering entails considerable time and labour, besides being a
source of expense, the necessity of it should be reduced as much
as possible. Hoeing, and mulching with a few inches of cocoa-
nut fibre refuse, decayed manure, or lawn mowings, both tend to
reduce the necessity for watering.

In proceeding to make selections of Annuals, we will give a
table of the principal hardy kinds first, and indicate their colours
and heights ; then select a few of the most valuable of them for
special mention.

THE BEST HARDY ANNUALS

KIND.

Alyssum, sweet.
Bartonia aurea.
Candytuft, various.
Chrysanthemum, various.
Clarkias, various.
Collinsia bicolor.
Convolvulus, various.

„ climbing.

Coreopsis, various.
Cornflower, various.
Eschscholtzia, various.
Eutoca viscida.
Gilia tricolor and alba.
Godetia, various.
Gypsophila elegans.
Helianthus (Sunflower).
Kochia scoparia.
Larkspur.

Lavatera (Rose Mallow).
Leptosiphon, hybrids.
Limnanthes.
Linaria, various.
Linum (Flax).
Lupinus, various.
Malope (Mallow).
Matthiola (Night-scented

Stock).
Mignonette, various.

HEIGHT IN INCHES.
9-

12.
12.
12 to 30.

1 8 to 24.
15-

12.

72 or upwards.

12.

12 to 18.

12.

12.

9-

12 to 18.
12.

36 to 84.

24.

12 to 24.

36.

6.
6.

12.
12.

30.
36.

12.

COLOUR.

White.

Yellow.

Crimson, purple, white, &c.

Yellow, white, purple, &c.

Rose, purple, &c.

Blue and white.

Blue, white, &c.

Various.

Orange, yellow, and brown.

Blue, white, &c.

Orange, rosy red, &c.

Blue.

Purple, white.

Crimson, rose, white, &c.

White.

Yellow.

Graceful foliage.

Blue, white, &c.

Pink, white.

Various.

Yellow and white.

Purple, white, &c.

Red.

Blue, yellow, white, &c.

Crimson.

Lilac.

Red, white, yellow.

ANNUALS

255

KIND.

Nasturtium, dwarf.

„ climbing.

Nemophila insignis.
Nigella (Love-in-a-Mist).
Phacelia campanularia.
Poppies, various, single and

double.

Salvia Bluebeard.
Saponaria calabrica.
Scabious, sweet.
Silene pendula compacta.
Sweet Sultan.
Virginian Stock.
Viscaria, various.

HEIGHT IN INCHES.

9-
36 and upwards.

6.
12 to 18.

9-

12 tO 30.

1 8.
6.

12.

6.

12.

6.
9-

COLOUR.
Scarlet, white, &c.

»» M

Blue.
Blue.
Blue.
Scarlet, rose, salmon, pink,

white, &c.
Blue.
Pink.

Purple, white, &c.
Pink.

Purple, white, yellow.
Pink, white.
Red, &c.

Commenting on some of the plants in the above list, the Sweet
Alyssum has already been mentioned as a good edging plant.
Thorburn's Dwarf Bouquet is a small variety of it.

The Candytufts are particularly useful, because they come early
into bloom, and will grow almost anywhere. A good strain of
carmine is one of the brightest and most useful Annuals we have.

The varieties of annual Chrysanthemum called Morning Star
and Evening Star, which are different shades of yellow, are very
desirable. The amateur should also grow Chrysanthemum Burrid-
geanum, which will give some darker shades.

Of the Clarkias, elegans rosea must be included whatever else
is left out. It is a very graceful plant, one of the earliest to
come into bloom, and one of the last to go out.

The Eschscholtzias are very bright, and will grow anywhere.
Californica and Mandarin are orange, Rose Cardinal rose. These
plants have very finely cut foliage.

The Godetias should be regarded as indispensable. They are
not very early bloomers, but they last a long time. They will
stand drought better than most plants if they are raised sturdily.
Dwarf Pink, Schamini, Lady Albemarle, and Duchess of Albany
are good varieties.

256 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

The Lavateras (Rose Mallows) are splendid plants for dry soils,
blooming profusely and long where most other plants would fade
quickly. The best forms are roseo-splendens and its white variety.
Both have flowers as large as those of climbing Convolvuluses.

The Night-scented Stock should be sown in patches near the
windows of the house, so that the delicious odour which it exhales
may enter the house. It is a somewhat straggly grower, and the
colour is not bright — in fact, the flowers look quite withered
throughout the day, and only present any semblance of beauty at
night. But it is very persistent, lasting quite into the autumn.

There are now a very large number of Nasturtiums. The Tom
Thumb varieties, such as Empress of India, are very vivid. The
variegated leaf variety is interesting and attractive. It rambles
freely, and is well worth growing. Sunlight is a yellow of medium
height, but self-supporting. The Ivy-leaved Nasturtiums are also
good things.

There is a splendid variety of Love-in-a-Mist, called Miss
Gertrude Jekyll, which ought to be got. It is worth trouble to
procure, being double the size of the old one, and a lovely shade
of pale blue. The plant blooms incessantly for three or four
months, and does not mind dry soil.

The Shirley Poppies are beautiful singles that one can buy in
mixture. They are brilliant but ephemeral, and some of the giant
doubles, which can be had in scarlet, white, striped, pink, and
other colours, should be grown. They are splendid plants in beds,
for their leaves are handsome, and when the huge flowers are
thrown up well above the foliage on tall, strong stems, there are
few garden plants to excel them.

The Saponarias and Silenes share with Candytuft, Bartonia,
Collinsia, Limnanthes, Nemophila, and Virginian Stock the merit
of being good spring as well as summer bloomers. To flower in
spring they should be sown at the end of August.

The Scabious (not strictly an Annual) and the Sweet Sultan

CANTERBURY BELLS
By A. Fairfax Muckley

ANNUALS 257

are very fragrant, and they are easy to grow. That other perfumed
favourite the Sweet Pea has a chapter to itself.

The half-hardy Annuals are, as we have already mentioned,
raised in a frame or greenhouse in early spring, and planted in
the garden when the weather is warm enough — say in May or the
early part of June. If the amateur has no glass he must raise
his Stocks, Asters, Phloxes, Marigolds, and the rest (unless, indeed,
he buys what seedlings he wants) by sowing out of doors, but
this is not safe before the beginning of May.

Those to be started under glass are best sown in boxes, and if
a special compost can be prepared it
should consist of equal parts of loam
and leaf-mould, with an eighth of
coarse sand. It should be pressed
firmly into boxes three or four inches
deep, which can be bought from a
grocer or oil-and-colour merchant, as
a rule, at a very cheap rate. Sow in
drills about half an inch deep, with
the soil in a moist but not sodden
state, and cover the boxes with squares
of glass if possible, but, with or with-
out glass, with sheets of newspaper, which may be removed when
germination has taken place.

If the plants are being raised in a house, they should be placed
on a shelf near the roof glass ; otherwise they will get drawn and
weak. Remove them from the seed rows before they grow thick
enough to spoil each other, and set them out three inches apart
in other boxes. By the time they have grown sufficiently to again
threaten overcrowding, the weather will be warm enough for them
to be planted out of doors.

The remarks as to soil and planting made about hardy Annuals
apply to the half-hardy. A deep, rich soil is not necessary for

How TO RAISB TENDER ANNUALS

A, a hotbed ; B, cocoa-nut fibre, ashes, or soil ;
C, seedlings in pots and pans ; D, seedlings
in boxes.

258

BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

the majority. Asters, it is true, like a fertile soil, but heavy
applications of natural manure must be avoided none the less,
or "Aster sickness" will follow. Soot, wood ashes, bone flour,
superphosphate, and sulphate of potash impart fertility as well as
yard manure. Of course, the ground should be well worked and
pulverised. The other general remarks made under hardy Annuals
apply.

THE BEST HALF-HARDY ANNUALS

KIND.

Acroclinium.

Ageratum.

Amaranthus caudatus

(Love-lies-bleeding).
Asters, various.
Brachycome (Swan River

Daisy).

Cobaea scandens.
Cosmos bipinnatus.
Gaillardia.

Helichrysum (Everlasting).
Layia elegans.
Marigolds, French.
Marigolds, African.
Marty nia fragrans.
Mina lobata.

Nemesia strumosa Suttoni.
Nicotiana affinis.
„ sylvestris.
„ Sanderae.
Perilla Nankinensis.
Petunias.

Phlox Drummondi.
Portulaca, single and

double.
Salpiglossis.
Statice.

Stocks, Ten-week.
Tagetes signata pumila.
Venidium calendulaceum.
Zinnias, single and double.

HEIGHT IN INCHES.

12.
12.
1 8-

9 to 24.
1 8.

Climbing.

30.

18.

12.
12.
12.
24.

18.
Climbing.

IS-
24.

36.
30.
1 8.
12 to 18.

9 to 18.

3 to 6.

18.

12 to 24.

12 to 18.
9-

9-
1 8.

COLOUR.

Rose.
Blue.
Crimson.

Nearly all hues.
Blue.

Purple.

Crimson, pink, white.

Orange, brown, yellow, &c.

Red, white, yellow, &c.

Yellow and white.

Striped.

Yellow, orange.

Purple.

Red.

Various.

White, sweet.

n n

Red.

Purple leaves.
Various.

n

n

Yellow, rose.

Various.

Orange.

n

Various,

ANNUALS

-259

Asters rank very high among the half-hardy Annuals, and
they are well worth specialising. There are several types, among
which the Dwarf Bouquet, Dwarf Chrysanthemum flowered, Paeony
flowered, Quilled, Victoria, Comet, and Ostrich Plume rank high.
All can be bought in mixtures, or in assortments of from six to
twelve separate colours. The Ostrich Plume will be found particu-
larly valuable for garden decoration, owing to their graceful habit
and large, fleecy, richly coloured flowers.

Gaillardias are not always strictly annual, but are generally
grown with this class. Their large, circu-
lar, warm-tinted flowers are very handsome.

Marigolds are old favourites, and Ne-
mesia strumosa Suttoni a new one.

The Nicotianas (Tobacco Flowers) are
sometimes biennial or perennial in dura-
tion, but are generally grown as Annuals ;
and the same remarks apply to Petunias.
Both plants should be grown, the former
for perfume and evening bloom, the latter
for their large, richly coloured flowers.

The Phloxes rival Verbenas, and the
Salpiglossis has a grace of habit and a
diversity of colouration of its own. Its large bell-shaped flowers
are quaintly beautiful.

Stocks are quite indispensable. Like the Asters, they can be
bought either in mixed colours or in assortments of several distinct
hues. The Dwarf German is shorter than the Giant Perfection,
but the latter produces the finest spikes of bloom.

Zinnias are very brilliant. They like a little bottom heat to
start in. Although slow beginners without warmth, they grow
rapidly when once in swing, and are splendid garden plants.

The tender Annuals, which are used for greenhouse or con-
servatory decoration in pots, are not numerous. The Balsam — of

MIGNONETTE IN POTS
A, a strong seedling pinched at the dark
line ; B, B, weak seedlings to be
destroyed ; C, C, C, C, young shoots
growing from the pinched plant.

260 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

which the Camellia-flowered is one of the best types — is one of
the most familiar examples. The Browallia is a pretty plant that
thrives in a cool greenhouse. Alonsoa Warscewiczii, with bright
scarlet flowers, is useful. Dwarf Bouquet Asters are suitable for
pots, and Mignonette is often grown in pots, especially for winter
blooming; Nemesias may be grown in the greenhouse. Petunias,
especially the double fringed, are much in demand for this purpose.
The Rhodanthe is a charming everlasting suitable for pot culture.
Ten-week Stocks are frequently pressed into service.

All the flowers named can be raised by sowing in boxes in a
warm greenhouse in spring, pricking the plants out into other
boxes when they get thick, subsequently transferring them to small
pots, and from 'these to larger when the small ones are filled with
roots. See fuller remarks as to the management of young plants
in the chapter on Greenhouse, Conservatory, and Hothouse Flowers.

In the case of Mignonette and Rhodanthes about half-a-dozen
plants are generally grown together in a 5 or 6 inch pot. Mig-
nonette seed is sown direct in the flowering pot, as it does not
transplant well.

WATER LILIES AND OTHER
AQUATIC PLANTS

IN the great economy of Nature provision has been made for
vegetation in all kinds of situations — swamps, deserts, mountains,
valleys, cliffs, and seashore. The aquatic plants can vie with any
other section in beauty and luxuriance. As might be expected,
they are for the most part vigorous growers of succulent habit ;
but, what is of the most importance from our present point of
view, many produce large, beautiful, and perfumed flowers.

In the old days of bedding plants it was very rarely that a
water garden was provided. True, on large estates Water Lilies
were often grown in the lake which was usually to be found in
the park, or some other part of the grounds ; but aquatic plants
were not, as a rule, grown within the confines of the garden
proper. Happily, things have changed, and we now see them in
almost all gardens where real interest is taken in plants.

There are two great reasons for the change which has taken
place — (i) The removal of the misconception which existed as to
the requirements of Aquatics ; (2) the increased number of beauti-
ful varieties introduced and exhibited by florists. Because Water
Lilies were only grown in large lakes in years gone by, a belief
appears to have grown up that they would fail in other circumstances.
It was assumed, in the absence of evidence to the contrary, that they
would only thrive under the opulent shadow of Privilege. The
old white Water Lily, Nymphaea alba, was regarded as the legiti-
mate possession of the large landowner. It was placed in much
the same position among plants as the peacock was among birds.

With the spread of a love for hardy plants among all classes

261

262 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

of gardeners, and a study of more natural forms of gardening
than had enjoyed favour previously, Water Lilies began to receive
attention. Experiments soon proved that they were amenable to
cultivation in the smallest garden, and not only so, but that they
were well worthy of being grown. Hybridisers began to work on
the Nymphaeas, alike in England, France, and the United States ;
with the result that many beautiful forms were added to the
existing list.

A potent means of bringing home the adaptability of Water
Lilies for the smallest places was adopted by some enterprising
dealers in hardy plants. It was to form aquatic gardens on a
small scale, with real plants and real water, at some of the large
flower shows. Thousands of people saw Water Lilies, evidently
quite at home, and flowering gaily, within the confines of a corner
of an exhibition tent. This was evidence, not to be refuted, that
Water Lily culture was open to the amateur of modest means as
well as to the owner of large estates.

While the Nymphaea, or Water Lily, is unquestionably the
most important of aquatic plants, it is by no means the only one
worth specialising. In this connection we have to consider plants
that grow on the margin of lakes and streams, as well as those
that grow actually within the water. And this being so, the
magnificent Japanese Iris (laevigata or Kaempferi) comes within
our purview. This is almost as beautiful and valuable a plant
as the Nymphaea itself, for it grows vigorously, and produces
large numbers of immense flowers, most brilliantly and diversely
coloured.

Some of the less known Aquatics are very desirable. There
is, for instance, the Water Hawthorn, Aponogeton distachyon,
a charming white flower, most deliciously perfumed. The Water
Violet, Hottonia palustris, is also attractive. The Yellow Water
Lily, Nuphar luteum, is a good plant. The Water Soldier,
Stratiotes aloides, is pretty. The Bog Bean, Menyanthes trifoliata,

WATER LILIES AND OTHER AQUATIC PLANTS 263

is a delightful flower. Add to these such things as the Water
Flag (Iris Pseudacorus), the Marsh Marigold (Caltha palustris), the
Japanese Primrose (Primula Japonica), which never does so well
as in moist soil near water, and may therefore be included with
the Aquatics without over-straining a point; the Grass of Par-
nassus (Parnassia palustris), the Arrowhead (Sagittaria sagittifolia),
the flowering rush (Butomus umbellatus), the Rosy Primrose
(Primula rosea), to which the remarks made in connection with
the Japanese Primrose apply ; Trapa natans and Azolla Caroliniana,
both with floating leaves; Alisma Plantago, Limnanthemum nym-
phoides, Acorus Calamus, Pontederia cordata, the Arum Lily
(Richardia Africana) in mild districts only — add, we repeat, these
things, and a most beautiful selection is provided.

All of the foregoing may be grown out of doors, but a few of
the Nymphaeas, such as gigantea, Devoniensis, and stellata; also
the beautiful Nelumbium (the Sacred Bean or Egyptian Lotus),
which is fragrant, and has many varieties ; the extraordinary
Eichornia, and the Lattice leaf plant (Aponogeton fenestrale, or
Ouvirandra fenestralis as it is called), the lace-like leaves of which
float on the water, require cultivation under glass.

It cannot be expected that every amateur is in a position to
grow the whole of the plants named, but he can at least manage
a few Nymphaeas. Should he say that he has no pond, we say:
" Make a pool." If he should reply that he has neither space nor
means even for this, we still have an answer, and it is : " Grow
them in tubs." Several of the smaller sorts, such as Nymphaea
odorata minor, a small form of the scented Water Lily ; pygmaea
or tetragona, white, flowering in June, and its yellow variety
Helveola; also the hybrids James Brydon, Marliacea carnea, and
Marliacea chromatella, which are respectively red, pink, and yellow,
do admirably in tubs. These sorts are not like the old British
Water Lily, Nymphaea alba, in wanting deep water. They are
more at home in a depth of twenty to thirty inches.

WATER LILIES — TUB PREPARED
FOR PLANTS

264 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

A tub does not cost much. Small ones may be made by sawing
an ordinary paraffin-oil cask (the value of which is about half-a-
crown) in halves, replacing the top, of course. In order to get rid

of the paraffin, put some shavings in the
tub, set them alight, and roll it slowly
over, in order that the whole of the sides
may be charred. Have some sand handy
in case it is necessary to dash out the
flames — which, however, is not likely.
Tubs thus prepared may be embedded in
the soil, and a few large rockery stones
A, stones; B, rotted turves ; c, fine piaced rOund the edge, with Arabis and

loam ; D, sand ; E, water. Tub r

sunk in ground, uiy roots planted Aubrietia among them, in order to give

in basket.

a natural appearance. They are then not
in the least unsightly, and they last for several years.

In hot summer weather there will be a certain wastage of
water, and the tubs will need to be refilled. There is rarely very
much trouble (although it is not very
serious after all) in the case of a pool
that is made to receive rain water,
either by surface drainage from the soil,
or from the roof of the dwelling. The
winter and spring rains fill it up, and
the summer loss by evaporation is
usually made up by the occasional rains.
The pool need not be a large one, and
it may be provided with a fountain or

not according to the taste of the owner. A« mies » tub ; B- edee °f tub » c» Plants

T i j r and stones.

It would form an attractive centre to a

Rose garden, or make a cool spot near a summer-house. The
exact place for it must be governed by the fall of the water
which feeds it, and the cost will depend in great part on the
length of the connecting pipes. To open a trench and lay in

WATER LILIES AND OTHER AQUATIC PLANTS 265

twelve or fifteen feet of 4-inch earthenware drain-pipes is quite

an inexpensive matter; and if these are connected with a down

pipe carrying rain-water from a moderate roof area, there will

be abundance of water for maintaining

a pool ten feet across and thirty inches

deep.

To make such a pool the earth

should be excavated to a depth of three

to four feet, and the sides should be

gently sloped — "battered," as builders

say — so that the pool is wider at the

top than it is at the bottom. It must

be made watertight, either by puddling

with clay, or by lining with concrete. In many places clay is

not procurable locally, and it is hardly worth while to cart it

from a distance. Where it can be got near it will do quite well

if thoroughly adhesive. It should be first of all chopped up into

small pieces, then watered, and beaten
up into a plastic mass that will spread
on like mortar. It should be well beaten
or trodden as it is laid on, and should
form a close lining not less than four
inches thick, preferably six. The lining
should rise a little above the water level.

PONDS FOR WATER LILIES-PLANTING In the absence of clay, Concrete should

PONDS FOR WATER LILIES— PUDDLING
A, lining of puddled clay; B, rough edge
of original soil left jagged so that the
puddled clay may "bite" into it; C,
water ; D, iron rods embedded in clay
to hold it firmly and prevent slipping.

A, stones for baskets containing the Lilies to De use(J for a lining three inches thick.
rest upon ; B, good turfy loam ; C, water ;
D, name label attached ; £ shows Lily
root in basket.

With regard to planting, if the pool
is puddled the bottom may be covered
with six inches of turfy loam, and the plants put into that. If
concreted, soil could still be placed in, but it is perhaps preferable
to pack pieces of turf round the roots, tie the whole up in a bundle,
and lower it down. The plants will very soon establish themselves,
and grow vigorously. The planting may be done in April or May.

(2,299) 18

266 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

The edges of the pool need not go bare. Some pieces of
rockery stone may be placed round them, as advocated for tubs,
and plants grown in the soil between them.

The Water Lilies will throw up successions of flowers through-
out the summer. The leaves will float on the water, and between
them the large blue, white, pink, or yellow flowers will appear.
They like sunshine, and may only partially open, if indeed they
attempt to do so at all, on dull days. But in warm, sunny
weather they will be glorious, and they will remain open until
nightfall, when they will close, to reopen again on the next sunny
day. The number of flowers which half-a-dozen plants will throw
up is enormous, and if the blossoms get smaller as autumn
approaches, they will still be beautiful.

The plants will give no trouble. They will flower incessantly
for several months, and make no demands on the cultivator. True,
if they are growing in small tubs it may be well to throw some
litter over them in severe weather, as the water is so shallow, and
might get frozen through ; otherwise nothing need be done. Even
in a hard winter the plants will not take any harm in thirty inches
of water, and that is a very suitable depth for a pool.

A few rushes may be planted among the Water Lilies, to rise
above the water.

ARCHES, PERGOLAS, PILLARS, AND

STUMPS

FEW garden lovers can have failed to observe the remarkable rise
in popularity of that phase of flower gardening which is represented
by arches and various kinds of rustic erection covered with plants.
The modern Rose Garden, as we saw in the special chapter on
Roses, is an informal feature. It does not consist merely of a
few stiff rows of plants, but is diversified by arches and pillars.
Thus broken up it is immeasurably more attractive than the stiff
garden.

It is not every flower lover who can form a special Rose
Garden, and Roses are not by any means the only plants suit-
able for rustic structures. There are places in every garden
where something informal can be attempted, and there are many
plants, including a few good Annuals, that can be flowered in
a few weeks from inexpensive seed sown in spring, suitable for
covering poles. This being so, we need have no hesitation in
recommending this branch of gardening even to those whose means
and space are of the most limited character.

It is really where the area available for gardening is the
smallest that arches and pillars are the most useful. When a
builder has to operate in a crowded city, where land is scarce,
what does he do? He goes upward. He puts as much of his
erection in the air, and spreads as little on the ground, as is
consistent with safety. The amateur who has a very small garden
will seek the air also. He will not erect horticultural "sky-
scrapers," but he will increase the area for his plants by providing
them with growing space above the ground.

267

268

BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

Wherever a garden is divided into two or more sections arches
become appropriate. One may be established at the entrance to
each section. If a flower gardener cares to make several arches
along a garden path, and connect them by top and side pieces of
rustic wood, he can claim to have made a pergola. A pillar, in
the gardening sense, is any tall single upright. A stump is a
low, bulky portion of timber, with or without laterals, such as the
bottom part of an uprooted tree. Pillars are admirable in Rose
and other gardens. Particularly should they be
used in gardens where there is no pergola, but
only a few arches. Stumps will help materially in
breaking up stiff outlines. They form suitable sup-
ports for semi-climbing Roses, Ivy, and rambling
Nasturtiums.

The arch is the most popular of the quartette
which we are now considering, and we may well
give a little special consideration to it. Broadly
speaking, garden arches may be divided into two
WIRE ARCH classes — metal and wood. Quite a large trade has
A, arch ; B, iron spikes sprung up during recent years in arches made of

of arch embedded A *

in charred block of galvanised wire. One sees them stood outside the

woodC.

shops of ironmongers, forming a stock article, like
fire-grates and door-handles. They are made in various sizes,
and they cost only a few shillings each. Small wonder that
" Mr. Subbubs," whose mind has been much agitated as to the
adornment of his five-rod garden, and who has seen a photograph
of a flower-covered arch in a penny gardening paper which he
has bought, pauses, and eventually buys.

We are not going to speak jocosely of the suburban wire arch.
It is not exactly natural ; it is more than a little stiff. During its
early days, before it becomes covered with verdure, it is admittedly
a somewhat harsh-looking and disagreeable object. But it serves
a distinct purpose. It provides people who are not in a position

PLAIN ARCH

A, the arch ; B, a pillar ; C, portion of
roof; D, tying-block, for centre of
arch.

ARCHES, PERGOLAS, PILLARS, AND STUMPS 269

to get rustic timber with a convenient, and practically imperish-
able, erection, ready made, easily transported, and quickly fixed.
But the ironmonger will sometimes be in a position to show a
wooden arch, or such a thing will be
on view in the horticultural departments
that are now commonly to be found in
most emporia in the cities. It will not
differ very much in price from the wire
arch ; and if it is made of rustic, twisted,
gnarled wood, and suitably stained, it
will certainly look a great deal more
natural than the wire arch.

Generally speaking, while most Roses
and other climbers do very well on wire,
they do still better on wood ; and on all
counts a wooden arch should be preferred to a metal one. It has
one point of weakness — its base. No matter how strong the upper

part of an arch may be, it is weak if the
part which is to be put into the ground
is untreated. The portion which is to be
buried should be dressed with creosote
or tar, or charred by laying the ends in
a garden fire.

In the country, where rustic timber
is always procurable from wood-dealers,
builders, nurserymen, or estate agents,
the amateur will probably elect to erect
his own arches. He will make a few
inquiries, and ascertain where Larch poles and twisted oak can be
got, then make his bargain and set to work. Constructing rustic
arches is interesting work, and affords scope for taste and in-
genuity. Care should be taken to fix the main uprights securely.
Few inexperienced amateurs realise how thorough this job must

RUSTIC ARCH

270 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

be. They accomplish it by removing a few spadefuls of earth.
To do it properly a hole thirty inches deep must be made, and
as a digger cannot get down that depth in a narrow hole, it
follows that a good deal of earth has to be shifted in order to
get each upright in. The hole will probably be quite as far across
at the top as it is deep.

There is one great compensation for the not inconsiderable
amount of labour involved in making such holes, and that is that
an opportunity is afforded of improving the soil to a good depth,
and so insuring benefit to the plants. The lower soil, near the
butt of the pillar, must be well rammed. When half of the hole
has been filled manure may be put in, and the top soil made
firm on it.

In this connection, what applies to the uprights for arches
applies also to those for pergolas. The necessity for it must be
taken into account when the length of the pergola, and the
distance apart of the main poles, are being considered. If a
thoughtless decision is come to that the uprights shall be put in
six feet apart, a great deal of labour in making holes is entailed,
not to speak of the extra expense of so many poles. Nine feet
apart is a fair and suitable distance.

All things considered, Larch poles should be preferred for the
uprights, alike in the case of arches, pergolas, and pillars. The
timber is admittedly not nearly so durable as Oak, but it has
four great points in its favour: (i) It is straight; (2) it is natural-
looking if its bark is left on ; (3) plants take to it freely ; and (4)
it is cheap. If the bark is scraped off the bottom thirty inches,
which is painted with Stockholm tar, the poles will last for
several years, especially if they have been cut a good while when
bought. If they can be got at a moderate price, poles not less
than six inches thick at the base should be procured ; eight inches
will be better still.

The uprights of an arch may be a little shorter than those of

ARCHES, PERGOLAS, PILLARS, AND STUMPS 271

a pergola, the top poles of which are laid on the level. Six feet

will do for the former, but seven feet must be the minimum for

the latter. Isolated pillars should not be less than seven feet high.

Strong Roses like Dorothy Perkins will be

over the top of them in the first season.

The side and top timbers of a pergola should

be of smaller size than the uprights, both in

the interests of weight and expense. The

width of a pergola should be not less than

eight feet. Both in regard to height and

width it has to be remembered that the

loose, rambling growth of the plant has to

be allowed for; and the better the plants

A, the arch ; B, iron (or wooden)

grow, the more freely they produce their Pillar* embedded in block of

TRIPLE ARCH

cement C.

flowering sprays, and the bigger the bunches

of bloom, the more the space below and between the poles will

be reduced.

A pergola is a beautiful and delightful addition to a garden

when well made and thoroughly clothed
^ in verdure and blossom. It should

i

not, if possible, be set in a mere strip
of soil only a few inches wide, where
there is barely room for the plants to
be put in, but should be set in borders
several feet wide ; then not only is there
abundant rooting area for the Roses,
or whatever climbers are grown for

iA

— GROUND PLAN
A, distance between posts, or width; B, dis- covering: the pergola, but also for

tance between side posts ; C, ends of

posts charred and made firm in the dwarfer faVOUritCS. In this Connection

ground.

we may urge the planting or sowing

of such perfumed flowers as Lavender, Bergamot, Ten-week Stocks,
Wallflowers, Mignonette, Sweet Peas, White Tobacco (Nicotiana
affinis), Night-scented Stock, Scabious, Sweet Sultan, and Pinks

272 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

in the borders beside the pergola. With well-kept grass as a
central path, the pergola is certain to become a favourite place in
which to pursue meditative rambles ; and those pleasant walks will
become more enjoyable if sweet smells soothe the senses.

With respect to climbers, Roses are par excellence the plants
for arches. A selection of suitable varieties is given in the special
chapter on Roses, and we need only emphasise here the desira-
bility of making certain vigorous, healthy, free-blooming varieties,
such as Dorothy Perkins, Lady Gay, Crimson Rambler, Carmine
Pillar, Wichuraiana Alberic Barbier, Ruga, Alister Stella Gray,

Griiss an Teplitz, and Mrs. F. W.
Flight, the foundation. Further ex-
perience of Dorothy Perkins satisfies
us that it is the most valuable of
all climbing Roses, and that it may
be definitely preferred even to Crim-
son Rambler, on the ground that it
is superior in cleanliness, in rapidity
of growth, and in the length of

A, height from ground ; B, spike to join top pieces f

of timber ; C, thick ends of posts made firm in the flOWCring SCaSOn. It IS really
the ground. .

impossible to adequately state the
value of this superb variety to amateurs.

Clematises, Honeysuckles, and Jasmines may be used as arch,
pillar, and pergola plants. These are fully dealt with in the chapter
on wall plants, but it may be noted that among the first, Jack-
manii, deep blue, Madame Edouard Andre*, red, and Snow-white
Jackmanii are three of the most useful. Of the Honeysuckles
may be named Lonicera japonica flexuosa, very sweet ; and aureo-
reticulata, the leaves of which are netted with gold. The first named
is superior to the common Honeysuckle or Woodbine, Lonicera
Periclymenum, but the latter may be grown if desired. Then there
is the winter flowering Honeysuckle, Lonicera fragrant is sima, which
produces its sweet white flowers in February or March.

PERGOLA— SIDE ELEVATION

HONEYSUCKLE

By Anna Lea-Merritt

ARCHES, PERGOLAS, PILLARS, AND STUMPS 273

The most useful of the Jasmines is certainly nudiflorum, which
produces its yellow flowers during mild spells throughout the
whole of the winter, blooming in advance of the leaves. It is
quite hardy. There is a large form of the common, white, summer-
flowering Jasmine called Jasminum qfficinale affine ; and there is
a variety with golden leaves.

The following are other hardy perennial plants suitable for
growing up poles : Aristolochia Sipho (Dutchman's Pipe), Periploca
graeca, Polygonum Baldschuanicum (which produces glorious fleecy
masses of bloom in summer and autumn), Tropaeolums of various
sorts, and the large-leaved Vines, such as Vitis Coignetiae. Cobaea
scandens (flowering in summer from seed sown in spring under
glass), Eccremocarpus scaber (easily raised from seed), and the
Passion Flowers (Passtfloras) are not quite hardy, but may be
used.

Among Annuals that may be sown out of doors are the Con-
volvulus and the Nasturtium ; and of those best raised under glass
and planted out in May may be named Canary Creeper, Mina
lobata, Ornamental Gourds, and Maurandya. For fuller notes on
these, see the chapter on Annuals.

Semi-climbing Roses like Alister Stella Gray and Grtiss an
Teplitz are good for large stumps. Tall Nasturtiums may also
be sown at the foot of stumps, or Canary Creeper trails led
over them. The small-leaved Ivies (see chapter on Walls) are
also good for the purpose.

BEAUTIFUL WALLS AND FENCES

IN urging the advantages attendant upon the formation of arches
and pillars on owners of gardens, we remarked that they were
particularly valuable in small places. The less ground area there
is, the more desirable it becomes to create space above the surface.
The same line of argument applies in connection with walls. The
owner of a large garden can afford to ignore his walls — although
he is not in the least likely to do so if he believes in having
a beautiful home — but the " small man " cannot. Every inch of
space is important. He has so little garden that he has to
take advantage of every bit of support for plants, and he should
turn to his walls and fences as a readily available source of
accommodation for floral favourites.

It is particularly in town gardens that this applies, yet where
plants are wanted the most they are used the least. Beautiful
flowers can never have a greater influence than when relieving
the desolating and depressing bareness of terrace houses in towns
and suburbs ; moreover, garden ground is almost invariably limited
in such districts. But town houses are not, as a rule, covered.
We may well ask if there is a good reason for this. Some per-
sons may not plant anything to cover their houses because they
only hold tenancies taken up for short terms. The reply to this is
that tenancies taken up for short periods have a way of growing
into long ones, and, in any case, it will be kind and generous to
think of the pleasure succeeding tenants will derive from what we
have done. Plants are so cheap that we can be unselfish without
having to suffer very severely for it.

Other people may not plant because they fear the loss of the

BEAUTIFUL WALLS AND FENCES 275

flowers they grow, at all events in the front of the house. Well,
we will not say that we would push generosity to the point of
merely providing temptation for pilfering loafers and mischievous
small boys, but let it be said that there are beautiful plants which
are worth growing for their foliage alone.

Probably the most common cause of house fronts being bare,
however, is that the people who occupy the dwellings have not
acquired a love for gardening and an interest in plants. Such
emotions are being rapidly spread, and as time passes more and
more will think of the exterior as well as the interior of their
homes — will want pretty plants on the outside as well as attractive
wall-papers within.

There is no good reason why the back walls of town and
suburban houses should not be covered. It is true that some
beautiful plants that we should dearly like to recommend, such as
the magnificent Crimson Rambler Rose, will not thrive, even with
the most skilful and assiduous attention. But, as we shall see,
there are other plants which will succeed.

So far as country houses are concerned, it is really deplorable to
see so many go bare, in view of the fact that tenancies are rarely
very short, that wayside thieves are uncommon, and that there
are plenty of beautiful and fragrant flowers which will thrive.
Owners of property which they let should encourage tenants to
plant by readily giving them permission when they leave to
take away any plants which they put in if they desire to do so.
Where the relations of landlord and tenant have been agreeable,
not one tenant in fifty would dismantle a wall when he quitted
a house. The great majority would assuredly leave the plants.
Now, a well-furnished wall makes a house attractive to those who
wish to hire ; the value is increased by the beautiful external
covering. Landlords and tenants have an equal interest, therefore,
in adorning house walls.

It is delightful to throw a bedroom window wide open in the

276 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

morning and look down on a pretty and fragrant display of flowers.
All country dwellers can taste this pleasure. Many make the
mistake of planting the common Virginian Creeper, and then,
instead of seeing Roses and Clematises, they will survey a thicket
of aggressive shoots, with very little beauty about them, but with
enough vigour to keep up a noisy fusillade on the panes during
windy nights, and to mat themselves round the frames in a thick,
objectionable tangle.

Before considering the best plants for walls, however, let us
take into account the principal things that make for failure and

success. To begin with, a wall site
with a south or west aspect is generally
dry. It is also hot. Heat is not in
itself bad for plants, but heat in con-
junction with drought is. A wall site
is dry because the walls absorb a good
deal of heat, because the soil is generally
shallow and poor, and because a great
deal of the rain which falls is thrown

A, hole made by removing soil to B, B on off by a projecting CaVC Or by WmdoW-

sills. The walls will absorb less heat

when covered with plants, and they will be covered with plants
more quickly if the soil is made deep and rich. Here, then, is
our first practical point — improvement of the soil. The soil-area
under a wall is often only a few inches wide and deep ; the
" soil " itself is half stones. Deepen the area to at least two
feet, increase it to a square yard for each plant, put in half-a-
dozen good, heaped spadefuls of turfy loam and manure, and the
whole prospect is changed. With the increased body of soil there
will at once be more moisture and more food available, but it will
be advisable to give occasional soakings of water (and they should
be real soakings, not driblets) in summer, together with weekly
applications of liquid manure.

CUTTING DOWN CLEMATISES
A young nursery plant

A. the main stem of plant ; B, B, B, shoots to
be cut off at dark lines ; C, C, C, C, C, C, C,
new shoots will then grow from the buds
below B, B, B.

BEAUTIFUL WALLS AND FENCES 277

Our next important point is the period of planting. Failures
often follow because the plants are put out in late spring, when
the sun has become powerful. Many amateur gardeners begin their
year's work at Easter, and (apart from
the fact that it sometimes falls late)
they find a good many odd but time-
absorbing jobs to do before they get
to the purchase of plants. Still worse,
many do not start until the bedding-out
season, which begins about the middle
of May, opens. The May planting of
wall plants does not give them a fair
chance. With hot soil and a hot wall
they are scorched up. Those who want
to succeed with climbers and creepers
should be encouraged to begin their operations earlier. The plants
=! . , | t ! ) „,,. j .... ought to be put in by the end of March ;

\_ i _ I i i i i ii

then they will be nicely rooted by the
time the hot weather comes, and will
not merely be able to stand the heat,
but will grow the better for it. What
hurts the plant in one set of circum-
stances benefits it in another.

A third point is pruning. Popular
wall plants like Clematis Jackmanii, and
B, B, B, B, B, shoots to be allowed to re- the majority of the Roses used for

main on the plant. The above pruning suits .... .

the Lanuginosa type. The Jackmanii type Walls, are better for DCing CUt Tight

should be cut down to within two feet of , .. , . ..-. . .

the ground after the flowering season is down after planting. Broadly speaking,

an amateur can never do harm by cut-
ting back a newly-planted climber, but may see the plants do badly
if it is not practised. Cutting down is not generally done, because
a person objects to buying a plant and then throwing away seven-
eighths of it ; he thinks it wasteful. It is the reverse. If a plant

ANNUAL PRUNING OF CLEMATISES
A, A, A, A, shoots to be cut off at the dark lines ;

278 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

is cut back to within a few buds of the ground, the vigour of the
roots will be concentrated on those buds, and strong shoots
will result ; moreover, shoots will come freely from the under-
ground buds. If, however, the root action (necessarily imperfect,
be it understood) has to operate on long, existing branches, the
dormant back buds, which have so important a bearing on the
future welfare of the plant, suffer, and they break weakly, or not
at all. A few Roses with superabundant vigour, particularly
Dorothy Perkins, will not only bloom abundantly on the original
shoots the same year as planted, but form fresh ones of equal or
even greater strength ; they are, however, entirely exceptional.

Given deep, fertile, moist (but not sodden) soil, early planting,
and bold cutting back, wall plants will thrive in most places.
Ivy need not be pruned.

Fences must not be overlooked. A rustic fence of Larch up-
rights and twisted Oak cross-pieces looks charming when covered
with creepers. There is nothing better for clothing it than the
little-known but beautiful Rose called Sinica Anemone. It is
nearly evergreen, and produces a cloud of charming flowers. We
are speaking here, of course, of a divisional, partially decorative
fence within the garden, not of a main outside fence which has to
repel cattle and sheep. That would have to be built closer, and
provided with a thirty-inch depth of galvanised wire netting at
the bottom to keep out lambs and rabbits. A climber-covered
rustic fence may be used to form a division between flower and
kitchen gardens, instead of a hedge or shrubs.

In a consideration of plants for covering walls we must place
Roses first. Varieties suitable for walls were named in the chapter
on Roses.

Clematises are very beautiful. There are different types of
this flower, and some require more drastic treatment than others
in respect to pruning. Few people prune Clematises at all. The
plants grow unrestricted year after year. This is not the best

BEAUTIFUL WALLS AND FENCES

279

for Jackmanii, its white variety, and the splendid red Madame
Edouard Andre*. These sorts never do so well as when they are
hard pruned every year. The flowering shoots of one year may
be cut close back to their base in the spring of the following
season, soon after they have started growing; and the plants
will then push strong new shoots, which will produce far better
flowers than would be borne on the weak shoots that would
spring from the old flowering growths. The three Clematises
named will probably meet the re-
quirements of most people, but there
are plenty of others available if
wanted. Fair Rosamond, Miss Bate-
man, and The Queen, respectively
blush, white, and lavender, are pretty
sorts. They flower much earlier in
the season than the others, and differ |A
in respect to the method of flowering.
Hard pruning must be avoided ; all that
is needed is thinning and trimming

A, A, charred ends of upright posts embedded

when the plants get crowded and in the son ; B, B, strong pieces of timber

. .. _, , . . for main supports between posts ; C, top

tangled. 1 he White montana IS alSO rail ; D, D, small pieces to fill in intervening

a useful, though small, Clematis.

The Honeysuckles and Jasmines named in the chapter on arch
and pillar plants will also do for walls, as, indeed, will the other
climbers and creepers referred to there.

There is a beautiful shrub called the Ceanothus, which has
pale-blue or lavender-coloured flowers, borne very abundantly in
summer; and it may be grown successfully on south and west
walls. The variety Gloire de Versailles is one of the best.

The double variety of Kenya Japonica must not be over-
looked when the claims of comparatively dwarf plants are
being considered, as they will be for certain positions. This
is the plant which bears double yellow flowers nearly as large

A RUSTIC FENCE

28o BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

as Gardenias. It is very bright and cheerful, and it is easily

grown.

Wistaria sinensis used to be a great favourite in years gone
by. It is perhaps less frequently planted now than it was once,
owing to the increase in the use of Roses for walls. The plant
grows too slowly in its early days to suit those people who
like quick effects. When thoroughly established it moves more
rapidly, and it is very beautiful when well furnished with its
long mauve clusters. Annual pruning to the old wood is good,

as it encourages strong new breaks and

|'ii tut" I "tn'/f } /"_'"_! I — /

large bunches of bloom.

Of foliage plants for walls the most
popular is the Virginian Creeper — not
the common, which sprawls all over
the place, harbours sparrows, and finally
casts its leaves late in summer and
presents an ugly array of long, bare
stalks, but Veitch's variety, popularly

A, A, A, A, flowering shoots to be cut back . . . . . ,

to one or two basai buds ; B, B, B, B, B, known as Ampelopsis Yeitcriii> but now

PRUNING WISTARIA

cut ; C, C, C, C,
should be cut out.

called by botanists Vitis inconstans.

This valuable plant grows as well in
town as in country gardens, is of neat habit, clings tightly to
brick or stone walls by means of its own suckers, clothes the
walls in a pleasing mantle of green in summer, and changes to
a warm red in autumn.

Ivy is, of course, seen on many old buildings, and on not a
few modern ones, but we doubt if it is as extensively planted
nowadays as it was in the days before Ampelopsis Veitchii came
to Great Britain. However, it is still a popular plant, and there
are many beautiful forms to choose from, nearly all varieties of
the common Ivy, Hedera Helix. Those who want a very quick-
growing sort might choose the Irish, canariensis, the leaves of
which are five-lobed. Those who want a very large-leaved

PAPHIOPEDIUM (CYPRIPEDIUM) CURTISII
By A. Fairfax Muckley

BEAUTIFUL WALLS AND FENCES 281

variety should select Raegneriana, which has heart-shaped foliage.
Any one of the three named (including the common) will cover a
large area more quickly than the small variegated-leaved sorts;
but these are extremely beautiful, and any person who is not in a
desperate hurry to get his walls covered,
but takes pleasure in watching steady
development, should grow one or two of
them. Rhombea and variegata are two
of the best ; they have green leaves with
white margins.

There is another aspect of wall gar-
dening than that of covering house walls
with creepers, and it is to establish
dwarf plants in the face, or on the top,
of low walls. Some enthusiastic flower-
lovers go so far as to drive long spike
nails into the face of such walls, in
order to provide partial support for small
rockery stones, which are then cemented
on. By adopting this plan quite a
charming effect can be produced. If
stones with a hollow upper surface are selected, they will hold
enough soil to keep such plants as Sempervivums, Sedums, Saxi-
frages, Campanulas, Arenaria (Sandwort), Arabises, Aubrietias,
Dwarf Phloxes, Iberis gibraltarica (perennial Candytuft), and
Cheddar Pinks flourishing. Nor must the Wallflowers and Snap-
dragons be overlooked ; they are natural wall plants.

FORMING POCKETS ON THK FACB
OF WALLS

A shows pockets on the face of a wall ;
B shows section of wall with brick
or stone so built in as to form a plat-
form for pocket C to rest on. The
pocket is held securely to the wall by
means of a nail driven into a wooden
plug as shown. C shows end or side
face of pocket

19

ORCHIDS

As a class, Orchids are the most refined in texture, the most dainty
in colouring, the most remarkable in structure of all cultivated
plants. They include some of the largest and some of the smallest,
some of the most richly coloured and some of the most delicately
marked, some of the sweetest, and some of the most fantastic of
flowers. Small wonder, in these circumstances, that they are full
of interest, and that they have a very large circle of admirers.

Most of the Orchids are exotic, but there are a few British
species, notably Orchises latifolia (Marsh Orchid), maculata, and
mascula; and Ophrys apifera (Bee Orchis), aranifera (Spider
Orchis), and muscifera (Fly Orchis) ; and the pretty " Lady's
Slipper," Cypripedium Calceolus. Some of these grow in cool,
moist places, but the majority in shady spots on chalky uplands.
These British species are cultivated occasionally, but as a rule they
are not regarded with so much interest by the gardener as by the
botanical student, who loves to come upon them in his rambles,
even though he may have discovered them many times before.

In view of the immense number of different kinds of Orchids,
we can do no more in this chapter than give a general sketch of
the class, and of its cultural requirements, referring those who
want to make a close study of it to standard works, such as
Orchids, their Culture and Management, by William Watson ;
The Book of Orchids, by W. H. White ; and the Orchid Guide, by
F. Sander. Also to exhibitions of Orchids, such as those of the
Royal Horticultural Society, the dates of whose shows can be got
from the Horticultural Hall, Vincent Square, Westminster; and
to the larger Botanic Gardens, like Kew.

282

ORCHIDS 283

In the 'mind of the general public, Orchids are all extremely
expensive plants, and require costly structures and highly trained
men to grow them. This impression has grown up as a result of
the custom which the newspapers have of publishing the records
of sensational sales. As a matter of fact, high prices do not rule
among Orchids. Many are as cheap as Carnations. Every now
and then a rarity appears, either through importation or hybridi-
sation at home, and then competition among wealthy amateurs
and dealers runs the price up, perhaps, to several hundreds of
pounds. But high prices are paid at times for special pedigree
rams or bulls, and they do not make sheep and oxen, as a whole,
expensive.

In these days of great plant emporia, keen competition among
tradesmen, and auction sales, even Orchids are cheap, and the
matter of cost need never deter a person who wants to grow some.

The question of accommodation is more serious. It is true
that there are several beautiful kinds which will do well in a cool
house, and some may even be associated with other plants in
a general greenhouse; but if a representative collection of the
principal Orchids is to be grown successfully, not only will a
special house have to be provided, but it will have to be divisible
into compartments, because the different genera vary a good deal
in the degree of heat they require.

The Orchid specialist divides his plants into four sets, or, to
put it in another way, he has four types of house in which to
accommodate his favourites. He calls the first the "cool house/'
and it approximates to the ordinary "greenhouse" of the general
gardener; in it Odontoglossums and some of the Cypripediums
will thrive ; the night temperature in the winter ranges from 45° to
50°, and the day temperature is 10° higher; in summer the night
temperature may range from 55° to 60°, with a corresponding
day rise. The second is the "intermediate house," of which the
temperature is about 5° higher than that of the cool house; if

284 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

there is no special Cattleya house the temperature of the inter-
mediate house may range 10° higher than the cool house. The
third is the "Cattleya house," of which the temperature averages
10° higher than that of the cool house. The fourth is the " East
India house," which must range at an average of 15° higher than
the cool house.

It is not absolutely necessary that every Orchid grower should
possess four houses ; such an elaborate equipment is only necessary
when Orchids are being specialised. And specialising Orchids is
somewhat of a luxury. By the time four substantial houses have
been erected and furnished a good deal of money has been spent.
A person who is sufficiently well off to afford what is required
can also afford the services of a trained grower, in whose ex-
perienced hands we can leave him, being certain that he will
benefit more from practical advice on the spot than from any
which we can give him in these pages.

We must not, however, dispose of the general amateur so
lightly. He cannot scatter big cheques about among horticultural
builders and Orchid specialists. He cannot drop into an auction
room during the luncheon hour and bid in hundreds of pounds
for a rare species. Our advice to those amateurs of moderate
means who want to devote a good deal of attention to Orchids is
that they build one moderate-sized house, and divide it into two
compartments, one of which is kept warmer and moister than the
other. They will thus be able to grow several of the most beau-
tiful kinds, which we will now proceed to consider. The four
most important genera of Orchids are: —

Cattleya.

Cypripedium.

Dendrobium.

| Odontoglossum.

Genera that are not quite so important, yet beautiful and de-
sirable, are : —

Aerides.
Angraecum.
Epidendrum.

Laelia.
Lycaste.
Masdevallia.

Oncidium.
Phaius.
Phalaenopsis.

Saccolabium.
Vanda.
Zygopetalum.

ORCHIDS 285

We have here named sixteen genera — four of the first import-
ance, and twelve of the second.

All these Orchids are divisible into two classes — those which
grow on blocks or rafts, or get most of their sustenance from
the air, and are termed epiphytes ; and those which grow in soil
like ordinary plants, and are consequently called terrestrials.

The vast majority of those who start Orchid-growing do so
with imported plants, which arrive in a dry — or what appears to
be a dry — state. We may very well begin our cultural hints with
a few remarks on these imported " pieces," as they are called.
Some of the kinds will have pseudo-bulbs
— which are greyish-green swollen growths
coming between the roots and the leaves —
and others will not.

Taking Cattleyas first, we may say that
they have pseudo-bulbs. -They are grown in
pots, but the compost used is not the loam,
leaf-mould, decayed manure, and sand which
make up most potting mixtures ; it is crocks,
sphagnum moss, and peat. The crocks (pieces ORCHIDS-AN IMPORTED
of broken flower-pot) should be clean. In

dealing with imported pieces, which require to be freshened and
stimulated into growth before they are fully potted, only crocks
need be used ; and if they are kept moist, the plants will soon start
in the temperature which has been indicated as desirable for them.
They may be kept upright by means of a stake firmly fixed in the
crocks ; the plant should be securely attached to it, as if loosely
tied, and subject to shaking, they would be slow in rooting. It
is very desirable that a moist atmosphere be maintained.

As soon as the plants have started vigorously, both at top
and base, they may be fully potted. At this operation the other
ingredients come into use. First of all, the pots are filled two-
thirds up with crocks, and then a layer of sphagnum is placed on.

286 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

Stake the plant securely, and then with the fingers pack a mixture
of fibrous peat and sphagnum, two-thirds of the former to one of
the latter, among the roots, and finish off a little above the top
of the pot. It is well to use a fairly large pot— one that will
permit of extension for about three years— as frequent repotting

is undesirable.

Throughout their growing season Cattleyas love abundance of
moisture, both at the roots and in the atmosphere. Given this, in
a light, airy house with a temperature of 60° (night) to 70° (day)

throughout the summer, the plants will
grow rapidly. They will be the better for
light shade in very bright, hot weather.
When the growth is complete very little
water will be needed. So long as the
pseudo-bulbs keep fresh, and show no signs
of shrivelling, the plants will be all right,
even if they are kept without water for two
or three weeks. With the treatment indi-
cated the plants will bloom well.

The flowering season of the Cattleyas
varies with the species. Some, and amongst
them the small fragrant yellow citrina, bloom
in spring. One of the best known is Mossiae, of which there
are many beautiful varieties. This grand Cattleya is imported in
enormous quantities, and is very cheap when bought at the auction
sales. The body colour may vary from white or blush to deep
purplish red or crimson. Mendelii, white tinted with rose, is
another good species, and of it also the varieties are numerous.
Both these bloom in late spring and early summer. Trianae is
a magnificent winter-flowering Cattleya, with a bevy of lovely
daughters. The colour is variable ; it may be white with a purple
lip. Labiata vera is an autumn bloomer, and also has a large
number of fine forms. It is rose, mauve, or purple, with yellow.

ORCHIDS— POTTING AN ORCHID

A, small empty inverted flower-pot
B, crocks ; C, peat, charcoal, &c.
D, sphagnum moss.

ORCHIDS 287

The Cattleyas have been largely crossed with the Laelias, and
some beautiful hybrids have resulted ; but they are mostly some-
what expensive.

The Cypripediums, or Ladies' Slippers, are the least brilliant in
colouring of our quartette of leading kinds. They do not possess
the rich purples of the Cattleyas, or the soft pinks and yellows of
the Dendrobiums, except in the case of one or two species, notably
spectabile, which may be grown out of doors. The feature of the
Cypripediums is the delicate harmony of browns, and purples, and
bronzes, and silvers. The colours are all quiet. They do not
dazzle. They do not arrest the eye. Nine persons out of ten
who make the acquaintance of these Orchids would be struck by
their quaint form, and not by the colour.

In spite of the fact that Cypripediums are the least brilliant of
Orchids, they are among the most highly esteemed by specialists.
They had a special vogue a few years ago, and it has not yet
died out. Enormous sums were paid for special kinds. They
deserve to enjoy particular favour among amateurs also, because
they are easy to grow. Several of the best species thrive with
very little heat ; insigne, the most popular of all, is a pronounced
cool-house plant, and is one of the few Orchids which may be
grown in a general collection of greenhouse plants. Thousands of
pieces are imported every year, and sold at very low prices at the
auction sales which are held in most of the large towns. The
colours of insigne are purple, green, and white ; and it is a winter
bloomer. There are several varieties, differing in colour, and they
are desirable, but much dearer than the parent. Spicerianum,
which has somewhat similar colouring to insigne, and is an
autumn bloomer, is another species of the first standing which
will thrive in a cool house. A third which may be named for this
purpose is Schlimii, a very brightly coloured species.

Most of the Cypripediums require a warm house, and will not
thrive in a temperature which falls below 55° at night in winter.

288 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

For the most part they do not have a decided resting period, as
the majority of Orchids do; bellatulum is an exception, however,
to the general run of the species in this respect. A few of the
most notable of the tropical species are barbatmn, purple, green,
and white, a spring bloomer; bellatulum, white, purple spots, late
spring ; Boxalli, purple and green, winter ; caudatum, brown, green,
and yellow, spring ; Charlesworthii, green, rose, and white, autumn ;
Fairieanum, purple, green, and white, autumn ; Lawrenceanum,
purple, brown, green, and white, spring; and Rothschildianum,
purple, brown, yellow, and white, spring. There are a great many
splendid hybrids, as the Cypripediums have been more largely
crossed than any other Orchids ; Leeanum, Harrisianum, Mor-
ganiae, and Sedeni are four of the best.

Imported pieces should be put into small pots with crocks, and
the latter kept moist. With heat and atmospheric moisture they
will soon start, and then they can be given some sphagnum moss
and fibrous peat. They are terrestrial Orchids. They love a moist
atmosphere, and must be shaded from strong sun.

Dendrobiums are exceedingly beautiful epiphytal Orchids, uniting
graceful growth with free blooming and exquisite colouring. The
flowers are not so large as those of the Cattleyas, but in the
species thyrsiflorum they are borne in large, massive spikes bigger
than the largest Hyacinths, and drooping. This blooms in spring,
and the colours are red and yellow. Nobile and Wardianum are
the two most popular Dendrobiums. The former is purple, rose,
and white ; the latter purple, orange, and white. Both bloom late
in winter. There are several charming varieties of nobile, but
variations of colour may show themselves in the flowers of different
imported pieces. Devonianum, purple, orange, and white, spring ;
formosum giganteum, yellow and white, spring; Phalaenopsis,
purple and mauve, several varieties, an autumn bloomer ; Pierardii,
white, spring ; and superbum, purple, spring, are all pretty Den-
drobes — in fact, the genus abounds in attractive species. They have

ORCHIDS 289

not satisfied specialists, however, and a number of hybrids have
been raised, very beautiful in many cases, but dearer.

Dendrobiums are not difficult Orchids to grow, and they are
certainly one of the kinds which the beginner should choose.
There are, however, considerable differences of habit amongst them,
and while those of erect habit, like nobile, can be conveniently
grown in pots, others, which droop or, like Phalaenopsis, need
to be near the light, may be grown in baskets made of Teak.
The noble thyrsiflorum thrives in an Orchid pan, which is a wide
pot perforated at the sides with large holes ; these pans may also
be used instead of baskets, and suspended, if desired.

Imported pieces of Dendrobes should be treated much in the
same way as Cattleyas — that is, started
in crocks in a moist, close house, and
then potted in crocks, sphagnum moss,
and fibrous peat. Pieces of charcoal are
commonly incorporated in potting large
plants. They like heat while making
their growth, and should therefore be

.. . . ORCHIDS— AN ORCHID PAN

put in the warmest house available.

When, however, they cease producing fresh leaves, which may be
taken as an indication that the resting period is at hand, they
should be put in a cooler house, and given little water.

The last of our quartette, the Odontoglossum, is a magnificent
Orchid. The flowers combine large size with beautiful colours.
The most popular and important species of all, crispum, or
Alexandrae as it used to be called, is a glorious plant. The
flowers, which are produced freely in spring, are of exquisite
shape and refined texture. The colours, though not brilliant, are
charming; and the white or ivory body is frequently broken by
bars of brown. The species is largely imported, and pieces can
be bought at the price of ordinary herbaceous plants. Forms
with special markings have sometimes a high value, and as they

290 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

occasionally appear quite unexpectedly in an importation that is
supposed to consist only of the common species, there is an added
zest in buying and flowering imported lots.

The immense importance of this Orchid lies in the fact that it
is very easily grown, and thrives in a cool house. It is quite an
amateur's plant, and an extremely beautiful one. We do not say
that it can be grown successfully by any amateur in a mixed
greenhouse ; that is not the case ; but it is quite tractable in other
respects. It is one of the plants which a person may choose who
has not much experience of Orchids, and who is prepared to set
apart a house, large or small, for a carefully chosen selection of
pretty but easily grown kinds.

Perhaps the next most important Odontoglossum is that which
botanists tell us should not be classed as an Odontoglossum at all,
but a Miltonia, namely, vexilfarium. This species, with its large,
flattish, soft rose flowers, which are borne in great abundance, is
very attractive, and thrives in a cool house. There are many
varieties both of this and crispum, and the price varies according
as they are rare or common.

Other species which may be named are Cervantesii, dwarf,
blooming in spring, blush, with brown rings ; citrosmum, dwarf,
a spring bloomer, pink with rose and yellow lip ; grande, dwarf,
an autumn bloomer, yellow and brown ; Hallii, tall, flowering in
spring, chocolate and yellow ; luteo-purpureum, spring and early
summer, purplish brown and yellow; nobile (Pescatorei\ medium
height, spring-blooming, blush, purple spots, yellow crest; and
triumphans, tall, spring and early summer, yellow and brown.
There are many varieties of the two last.

Some of the most beautiful Odontoglossums are of hybrid origin,
being the result of crosses made by British and Belgian florists
between well-known species. For the most part they are expensive.

Assuming that imported pieces are bought, as being inexpen-
sive, and easily developed into beautiful plants, they may be put

ORCHIDS 291

separately into small pots, preferably in the Bracken rhizomes from
fibrous Orchid peat. This material can be bought from many
florists, and from horticultural sundriesmen. If the plants are
kept in a cool, moist atmosphere, protected from bright sun, and
kept just moist, they will soon break into growth, and may then
be potted in a mixture of fibrous peat and chopped sphagnum
moss in equal parts, with a good sprinkling of crocks. Repotting
should be done either in early spring or early autumn. When
new roots are forming the plants quickly establish themselves.
Repotting during hot summer weather is not safe. Never give
large shifts. The base of the pseudo-bulbs should be above the
level of the rim of the pot. Any old, worn-out pseudo-bulbs may
be cut away.

If a house is to be built for the plants, it should be provided
with abundant means for ventilation, and with sufficient piping to
maintain a minimum night temperature of 45° in winter. At that
period growth will not be active, but at the same time the plants
will not be entirely quiescent, and they must not be kept entirely
without water, or shrivelling of the pseudo-bulbs will take place,
and failure result.

During summer the plants will take a good deal of water, and
what is more, will appreciate a humid atmosphere. Dry air does
not suit them. The pots, stages, and floors should be damped
several times a day during very hot weather, the ventilators should
be quite open, and shading should be provided. The material for
breaking the sun should be fixed a few inches above the glass.

Space will not permit of fuller details of the cultivation of the
various kinds of Orchids. We have touched on a few of the
principal points, and practical experience and careful observation
will help the beginner further on the road to success. He will
have gathered that most of the principal Orchids, however they
may differ in their requirements in respect to heat, love a moist
atmosphere, thrive in peat, sphagnum moss, and crocks; and,

292 BEAUTIFUL FLOWEKS

growing mainly through the summer, resting in winter, and flower-
ing in spring, need plenty of water at the former season and little
during the winter. He will have learned that in addition to leaves
and roots they have bulbous protuberances between, called pseudo-
bulbs, and that the plants will be all right if these are kept from
shrivelling throughout the winter.

Some Orchids have no pseudo-bulbs, and of these may be
named Aerides, Phalaenopsis, Saccolabiums, and Vandas. Care is

needed in dealing with imported pieces
B of these, as they are often very shrivelled
when they arrive. They should be potted
in crocks surfaced with sphagnum, put
into a warm house, kept only just moist
until they begin to grow, shaded, and any
flowering spikes which they throw up pre-
maturely promptly removed.

When the amateur has got together
ORCHIDS-AN ORCHID BASKET a fairly good collection of Orchids, and
A, the basket ; B, smaii strip of lead ; acquired skill in managing them, his

C, small strip of lead rolled up

neatly, D, round the basket wire to hoUSCS Will be amOttg the mOSt attraC-

keep the bars slightly apart.

tive of any that he or his garden-loving

friends possess. There will be flowers of exquisite texture and
the most refined colouring for several months. And the houses
will be varied. Some of the plants will be growing in pots on
the stages, and others in baskets hanging from the rafters.

Two or three of the hardy Orchids are well worth growing,
and a special word of praise may be devoted to Cypripedium
spectabile, which is a plant of great beauty. There is a white
variety of it that is equally desirable. These lovely plants enjoy
coolness, shade, and humidity. They would fail in dry soil on
the summit of a sun-baked rockery, but succeed in a shady, damp
spot at the base. They may be procured from dealers in hardy
flowers and planted in spring.

U/ U/ B/ tf/
A

THE CHRYSANTHEMUM

THAT mightiest of all the epoch-making movements of the twen-
tieth century, the awakening of Asia, in particular the rise of
Japan and her alliance with Great Britain, has given new in-
terest to those plants which originally came to us from the Far
East. It is true that the rise and fall of dynasties, the aggran-
disement of some states and the decline of others, the ebb and
flow of the turbulent stream of world politics, leave the professed
devotee of flowers unmoved. He lives, serene and contented, in a
little world of his own. He is obsessed by the future development
of the flower which he specialises ; he has no thought for its past.
But others love to learn all about the flowers which they grow —
whence they came, what they were like when history first took
them into account, and the part they played in the life of the
nation which gave them birth. Imagination seeks play. It con-
jures up pictures of the contemporary life of the early stages of
popular plants. It sees through the murk of drear Western
November days the warmth and colour of the lands of the East.

The Chrysanthemum is the Golden Flower, the national floral
emblem, of Japan. With the island warriors whose martial
prowess has been proved within recent years on the bloodstained
fields of Manchuria it holds the place that the Rose does with the
allied island race of the West. This fact must have its interest
for us. Second only to the Rose as a popular flower in Great
Britain, the Chrysanthemum stands first with the highly trained,
progressive, ambitious Pacific nation whose future is bound up so
closely with our own.

As we see the flower in its most impressive form at our

293

294 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

exhibitions to-day it is, of course, vastly different from the little
blossom which first came to us from the East. That which modern
florists call the Japanese Chrysanthemum is represented at the
shows by a huge flower, nine or ten inches across and as much
deep, perfectly double, and a mass of long florets. The colour
may be crimson, amaranth, rose, buff, pink, yellow, or white.
Chrysanthemum indicum, the forerunner of all this floral glory,
was a small single yellow flower, little more than an inch across.
If it were placed alongside one of the gorgeous leviathans of
the champion cup winner, the contrast would be so great that a
common origin would appear to be incredible. The more com-
plete the difficulty of associating the two, the greater the tribute
to the work of those florists who have developed the large double
from the small single with long, devoted, unwearying labour.

But the modern Japanese Chrysanthemum is only one of a
large number of types — the most important, certainly, yet still
only one. In addition to it we find Incurved, Reflexed, Pom-
pon, Anemone-flowered, Pompon-Anemone, Large-Anemone, Single,
Thread-petal, and Hairy sections. There are, therefore, ten distinct
classes. A further division is made in connection with the flower-
ing season ; thus, there are early or summer-blooming Singles,
Pompons, and Japanese as well as the normal autumn-flowering
types. Truly, the cross-fertiliser has done remarkable work with
the Chrysanthemum.

It is a platitude to say that the Chrysanthemum is to autumn
what the Rose is to summer. Neither flower need be considered
as the plant of a season. We are only too glad to get Roses in
autumn, and we are delighted to get Chrysanthemums — garden
Chrysanthemums, that is — in summer. The Chrysanthemum is a
plant of such commanding intrinsic merit and value that it would
be extensively grown even if its chief flowering season were July
instead of November. It would come into direct rivalry with the
wonderful beauty of the Rose, the Carnation, and the Sweet Pea, if

THE CHRYSANTHEMUM 295

it bloomed in summer; but if that slightly reduced its army of
ardent followers, nevertheless it would still be a highly popular
flower.

While we claim for the Chrysanthemum that it has beauty
enough to enable it to become a floral favourite at any season of
the year, we are far from pretending that its late flowering is an
unimportant matter. The fact that this magnificent plant is at its
best at a period when every other great flower is practically over
is one of the utmost importance. It supplies our conservatories,
our homes, with a magnificent array of material very cheaply at a
season when, without it, flowers could only be got with consider-
able expense. Few blossoms are more delightful than light, fleecy
Chrysanthemums for vases. They look charming everywhere.

Chrysanthemums are town as well as country plants. It is
true that the Londoner's autumn bane — fog — often mars choice
blooms that were being specially developed for exhibition. But
one has only to visit the displays in the public parks of the metro-
polis to realise that the Chrysanthemum is a real town flower.
These park shows are extremely interesting and valuable. They
are open free to the public, and they are visited by thousands
of the most unrefined people every year. That they exercise a
real influence is proved by the increasing number of times that
one sees Chrysanthemums grown in town gardens. If the people
cannot grow Chrysanthemums under glass they grow them in the
open air. In the course of a short railway journey through the
south-eastern district of London, made with the object of visiting
a large exhibition held by the National Chrysanthemum Society at
the Crystal Palace one early November day, we observed Chrysan-
themums in scores of otherwise dingy back gardens. The con-
ditions under which they were growing were varied. One person
had tried the big-bloom system of culture on outdoor plants, and
his success was not inspiriting. There were several feet of plant,
several inches of flower-stem, and, impotently crowning all, a mere

296

rag of bloom! Another had plants in a window-box, and they

looked perfectly happy. Others, and these the majority, had their

plants in borders beside the party fences. The point is that the

people were trying, and by no means without success, to grow

Chrysanthemums.

Now, what will thrive in London may be expected to thrive in
most towns. The fact is, the sulphur in the atmosphere, and the
smuts, which are so bad for most plants, have but a slightly dele-
terious effect on Chrysanthemums. Even fog is not fatal, except
from the exhibitor's point of view. It does not kill the plants ; it
does not really destroy the flowers. What it does is to cause
"damping" of large blooms. They contract, droop, and lose their
fresh colours. In the same house with large Japanese show flowers
that have been spoiled by damping there may be plants of Singles
carrying charming vase flowers.

The reference to plants in London gardens may raise an old
question: Is the Chrysanthemum hardy? Inherently it is, cer-
tainly. It is true that if plants which have been raised from
stock under glass, and succulently grown in pots, were left out of
doors when cold weather came on they would probably be badly
damaged by the first severe frost. The flowers would be spoiled,
and the foliage would be discoloured. But that the Chrysanthe-
mum is really a hardy plant is conclusively proved by the evidence
of thousands of plants which have lived for years out of doors,
passing unscathed through severe winters. The truth is that the
Chrysanthemum is hardy or not according to the conditions under
which it is grown. It is always well worth while to grow a
collection in the garden, for late as well as for early blooming.
Severe early frosts sometimes mar the flowers, but in most years
no harm is done. If gardeners in Great Britain always hesitated
because they were uncertain what the weather was going to be,
we should not get half the fruit and flowers that we do now.
We must trust to the law of averages.

MASDEVALLIA HARRY AN A
By A. Fairfax Muckley

THE CHRYSANTHEMUM 297

The Chrysanthemum, we see, is a flower for all classes — for
town as well as for country gardeners, for greenhouse as well
as garden, for room equally with conservatory decoration. It does
not give us great natural diversities in habit, like the Rose. We
do not find Chrysanthemums of climbing habit. We do not find
varieties suitable for rambling over banks, or varieties for cover-
ing arches. But the plant is easily grown and tractable, and
with modifications in our system of culture we can get consider-
able variation in growth. Moreover, by a judicious selection of
varieties we can get flowers for several months — from the garden
in August and onwards, under glass up to midwinter.

When we come to a practical consideration of cultural matters,
we may very well elect to begin with the methods of acquiring a
stock of plants. Probably the initial step will be the purchase
of a few plants from a nurseryman, and this is likely to become
an annual occurrence, for we shall want to add more varieties to
our collection ; besides, new ones are always coming out.

It is well to order Chrysanthemums in the autumn or winter,
even if they are not wanted until the spring, especially if novelties
are being bought. The reason is that certain varieties, and
particularly new ones, are in great demand, consequently there is
a risk of not getting the sorts that are wanted unless they are
ordered early.

Cuttings cost less than rooted plants, and are procurable in
autumn ; but those who buy in November have the care of the
plants all through the winter. This does not matter to skilful
growers with ample accommodation, but it does to beginners with
only one small house, which is probably in a congested state.
Amateurs who are in this position will be well advised to buy
plants early for spring delivery. They will be quite safe in the
hands of a respectable nurseryman. If the plants are received
in March they will be sturdy little specimens, established in small
pots, and well supplied with roots. We will refer to the best

(2,299)

298 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

treatment for them when we have got home-struck cuttings to

the same stage.

Cuttings of Chrysanthemums may be inserted from November
to July for flowering in the following autumn. This is a long
period, and provides a considerable amount of latitude. But there
is not much for the person who wishes to produce cut blooms
of the highest exhibition quality. He must allow his plants the
better part of a year. The leading exhibitors strike cuttings in
November for winning silver cups in the following November.

Those who do not want to exhibit, and
are hampered by want of glass accom-
modation, need not propagate till spring.
Let us trace the career of a plant
"from the cutting to the cup" — the
cup which often seems so near as we
survey our own flowers, but so far when
we have an opportunity of examining
those of others.

The best type of cutting for Novetn-
Or December propagation is a short,

CHRYSANTHEMUMS

A, a good cutting. The main stem and lower

leaf must be cut off at the dark lines, sturdy shoot springing from the base of

B, a bad cutting, too weak.

the plant. It is not, correctly speaking,

a "cutting" at all, but a sucker springing from the stem or root-
stock, below ground, and is pulled off with finger and thumb, not
removed with a knife. Growers should keep a watchful eye on
these basal growths. They come after the plant has done its
duty by developing flowers. Top growth has come to an end, and
bottom growth — reproduction — begins.

Tall plants in full bloom will have their base a considerable
way from the glass, and this spells danger for the suckers. They
will elongate in an endeavour to get up to the light, and become
"drawn" — that is, long, thin, and weak. In that state they are
very poor material for propagating purposes. They should be

CHRYSANTHEMUMS— CUTTING BACK
OLD PLANT

A, old stem cut back to within seven inches
of rim of pot ; B, healthy suckers grow-
ing suitable for cuttings.

THE CHRYSANTHEMUM 299

dwarf and sturdy, as already hinted. The object of the grower
must be to take them off before they have time to "draw." Ex-
perienced men will always have an eye
to the basal growths, however much
engrossed they may be in the flowers ;
but amateurs are liable to overlook
this all-important matter. The suckers
should be removed when they are about
three inches above the ground.

Suppose suckers have not come by
the time the plants go out of bloom,
what? It is unusual, but it may
happen, and the way to meet the case
is to cut the plants back to within a
few inches of the pot — decayed flowers,
leaves, stem all going, save a short
stump. This procedure will enable the grower to bring the base

of the plant close to the glass. Let
him give water if the soil becomes
very dry, just as if the plant were in
full growth, and suckers will surely
come.

If there are plenty of small (say
3-inch) pots available, each sucker may
have a pot to itself; otherwise, several
may be put in a larger pot. In the
former case one crock, covered with
a little clean moss, over the hole will do for drainage ; in the
latter the pot may be one-third filled with crocks. Equal parts
of loam and leaf-mould, with a tenth part of sand, will make
a good compost. Should several suckers be put in one pot,
insert them, equidistantly, round the edge, and be careful with
the labelling, or all the names will get mixed up. The suckers

CHRYSANTHEMUMS
Pots of suckers or cuttings under a handlight.

300 BEAUTIFUL FLOWEKS

should be made quite firm by pressing the base in with a blunt
stick.

It will expedite rooting if the pots containing the suckers can
be placed together in a warm greenhouse and covered with a hand-
light. They root more quickly when kept close in this way than
when exposed to the air, as evaporation from the leaves is checked,
and the less of this that goes on until roots have formed to supply
fresh moisture the better it is for the prospects of success. Of
course, it is not absolutely necessary that air exclusion should be
effected by means of a handlight. We mention this as a stock
article specially made for the purpose. But many amateurs will
make shift with contrivances of their own. One may enlist the
sympathies of his wife, and borrow the spare tumblers. Another
will make an enclosure by placing four squares of glass on edge,
covering them with a fifth, and pasting strips of paper along the
unions. A handlight (or a large bell glass if there are only a few
pots to cover) is the most convenient, because it can be lifted and
wiped if moisture condenses on it. If the soil is moist when the
suckers are inserted it will probably not need watering until they
are rooted, but it must not be allowed to get parched.

Directly growth begins water may be supplied, because it is
certain that there will be roots ready to imbibe moisture, but over-
watering should be guarded against. Moreover, the covering may
be removed and air permitted to reach the plants. From this point
they should have a position close to the roof glass of the house, in
order to keep them sturdy, and air should be given whenever the
weather is fine, but cold draughts should be avoided.

The plants will need transference to larger pots as soon as
they have filled the small ones with roots, and may be shifted from
3-inch to 5-inch. Those inserted round the side of large pots
should be placed singly in small ones directly they have grown
sufficiently to begin crowding each other.

In a greenhouse the temperature of which does not fall below

THE CHRYSANTHEMUM

301

45° the plants will make steady progress. At the end of March
they may be put in a frame. The lights should be kept open
during fine weather, and only closed during bad spells and at
night. A mat or other thick covering should be available for
throwing over the frame-light in case of severe frost. We have
thus taken the young plant along to the spring, and brought it
into line with others which may be bought at that time.

Throughout the spring an unheated frame is the best of all
places for young Chrysanthemums. It
keeps them dwarf and strong. They
receive abundance of air. As the spring
advances the lights may be removed
altogether for long spells, only being
replaced when bad weather threatens.
Difficulties will begin, in the case of
those whose accommodation is limited,
when the plants call for fresh pots.
With increased growth and larger pots
frames become congested, and there is a
risk of the plants becoming dangerously
overcrowded. Rather than this should

CHRYSANTHEMUMS— REPOTTING

happen, the grower will be well advised A> teUof Milandrootsof p,ant; B,new

to spread some ashes in a sheltered

spot, stand a portion of the plants on

them, and surround them with boards

on edge. A few laths or Pea sticks supporting fish netting,

or a sheet of waterproof paper stretched on a frame, will afford

protection should the weather take an unfavourable turn.

We will dispose of the various repottings that will be needed
together, it being understood that we are still considering plants
to yield large flowers. If the largest pots available are 9-inch, the
plants may progress to them by three stages— 3-inch to 5-inch,
5-inch to 7-inch, y-inch to 9-inch. The provision of various sizes

potting compost ; C, C, space of about
two inches left for top dressings ; D, a
potting stick, blunt at one end, slightly
pointed at the other.

302 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

of pots, finishing with a fairly large one, makes the culture of
show Chrysanthemums more expensive than growing them for
ordinary decoration. For the latter purpose 3-inch to 5 or 6 inch,
and from the latter to 8-inch, will do. This saves a shift, and
utilises a cheaper pot, but an 8-inch pot is not large enough to
yield show flowers of the finest quality; a 9-inch or ic-inch is
needed. Even with the larger pot the soil at the first potting in

June must be made very firm — in fact, it
should be compressed with a rammer.

The compost should consist for the
main part of fibrous loam from decayed
turf. The quality of the loam has a
considerable bearing on that of the
flowers. The turf is best cut from an
old pasture ten or twelve months before
it is required for use, and stacked grass
side downward. When potting time
comes a fourth each of leaf-mould and

CHRYSANTHEMUMS— STAKING - , , i /• 1 j

decayed manure, a tenth of sand, and a

A shows how to stake a young plant ; B ^

shows how to stake a specimen plant, or thirty-second (one quart to each bushel)

where three young ones are grown in a

large pot ; c, c shows how the stems of steamed bone flour may be added.

should be spread out. 111

If these ingredients are thoroughly

mixed, and well rammed into the pot in a damp, but not sodden,
state, a good supply of food will be provided for the plants.

At each repotting the pots should be carefully crocked. Too
much drainage material is often put in, thus reducing the space
for soil. One large crock over the hole, a few others evenly over-
lapping it, and half an inch of clean moss, insure perfect drainage
without taking up much room.

The plants may pass the summer in the open air. A place
should be found for them that is open to the sun and air, but is
sheltered from rough winds. The pots should be stood on boards
or sharp cinders to prevent worms getting in. Amateurs who are

THE CHRYSANTHEMUM 303

away from home most of the day during the summer, and unable,
therefore, to give the plants that incessant care in watering which
is so important, may make a trench as though for Celery, lay in
a bed of ashes, stand the pots on it, and place more ashes round
them. This will not entirely obviate the necessity for watering,
but by preventing the hot sun from striking direct on to the pots
it will help to avert injury to the roots.

As the shoots move steadily upward they will call for support.
This is easily provided in the early stages by one bamboo cane,
but later on, when the plants have made their breaks, a single
support will not be sufficient. A simple plan is to erect a common
framework for a whole row of plants, and it may consist of two
strong end uprights, driven firmly into the ground, lighter uprights
at 6-foot spaces between, and parallel horizontal wires or cords
stretched from end to end. The growths may be tied direct to
these horizontals, or, better still, supported by short flower stakes
which are tied to the horizontals in an upright position.

Apart from the question of disbudding, to which we will give
special attention, the most important cultural operation through-
out the summer is unquestionably watering. Plants that are
properly watered will, other things being right, grow and flower
satisfactorily ; but all care and expense in providing good suckers,
drainage, soil, and pots will be wasted if the watering is not correct.
One day's neglect may irretrievably ruin all chance of winning a
coveted prize. It is not that the plants will die, probably, but the
buds may be injured, from the exhibition standpoint, beyond re-
covery. Drought is the thing to fear. If once the soil is allowed
to get so dry as to break away from the side of the pot, leaving
a distinct fissure, great harm will be done. The soil should really
never become quite dry. It should not be sodden, but on the other
hand it should not be parched. A moist or damp state constitutes
the happy medium.

Except during wet or very cloudy spells, the plants will certainly

304 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

want at least one watering a day throughout the summer, and they
may want two or three in very hot spells. A space of a couple
of inches will be left at the top when the final potting is done,
and if this is filled right up to the brim the supply will be suffi-
cient to well moisten the soil right through. If there is a doubt
as to whether water is wanted or not the pots may be rung
with the knuckles, and if they emit a hollow sound water should
be given at once. If, by any mischance, watering has been over-
looked so long that the soil has broken away from the side, the
pots should be stood bodily to the brim in a tub of water, and
not be taken out until bubbles have ceased to rise and the soil
has filled out again.

In October the plants should be placed under glass to flower.
The actual date may depend upon the weather. In the absence
of sharp frost or persistent soaking rains they may be left out until
the middle of the month, but in most districts and seasons it is
advisable to house them a little earlier. The house into which
they are to go should be well cleaned betimes, so that there is
nothing in the way of a prompt transference when the state of the
weather renders it advisable.

The reason why it is advisable to leave them out as long as is
consistent with safety, and with allowing time for the development
of the flowers, is that the heavy dews benefit the plants. They
will miss this fine and grateful moisture when they are first put
into the house, and may show a tendency to sulk. If kept a little
dry at the root for a few days, and given abundance of ventilation,
they will get over that and start growing cheerfully again.

While they are swelling their buds, both in and out of doors,
they will appreciate liquid manure. It need not be given for the
first few weeks after potting, because the food in the soil will be
ample to sustain the plants; but subsequently it may be given
twice a week. Many of the advertised proprietary fertilisers, which
are sold in small tins and bags, are excellent for Chrysanthemums ;

LYCASTE SKINNERI
By A. Fairfax Muckley

THE CHRYSANTHEMUM 305

in fact, some are prepared specially for this flower. Sheep droppings
tied in a piece of old sacking suspended in a tub of water give a
splendid liquid. Chemical fertilisers may also be used. One ounce
of superphosphate and half an ounce of sulphate of ammonia in a
gallon of water will be good. The different kinds which are used
should be used by turns.

We have glanced at the general points of management other
than training and bud development. Let us now consider these
highly important matters. If a Chry-
santhemum plant is to produce blooms
up to exhibition standard, it must only be
allowed to carry a very limited number.
If its energies are spread over many
flowers, they will be too small to win
prizes. Not only flowers but branches
also must be restricted. This means, of
course, an unnatural course of treatment.
If a plant is allowed to grow as it likes
it will produce many shoots and many
flowers. The blooms will be pretty and
useful, but they will not carry off any
silver cups.

In order to get a clear grasp of the
system of training and bud management
that yields exhibition flowers, we must hark back to the spring,
when our young plants, raised from cuttings, were making
steady progress in a frame. They will have one shoot, the
main upright one, and no more. Some time in April or May
a flower-bud will probably form at the top, and if, directly the
grower sees it, he examines the plant, he will find three incipient
shoots, or growing (not flower) buds just beneath it. This is called
the " first break " of the plant. The early bud is of no use, and
must be pinched off immediately, then the growths below will

CHRYSANTHEMUMS— THB FIRST BREAK

A, plant making first break. B shows the
top of the plant. The bud forms at C,
and this bud must be removed ; then the
shoots D, D, D grow rapidly, and must
be duly staked.

306 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

develop into branches. As they grow up they will, of course, form
leaves, and they will probably also commence developing side
shoots; the latter must be removed as promptly as the first bud
was, and the plant rigorously restricted to the three growths which
have developed from the main stem, and which will carry the cup
flowers that are presently to come and delight the world.

Assuming that the plant continues to make healthy progress,
its next effort at bud production is likely to take place somewhere

between the middle of July and
the middle of August. The same
condition will be observed with
the three shoots as was observed
with the one in May, namely, a
flower-bud appearing with a cluster
of incipient growths just below it.
We do not, however, necessarily
remove the flower-bud and preserve
the growths now. We may do just
the reverse. The new bud is called
the " crown," and if it has come

t fa ri^ht time for the VaHetV it
*l L11C ll£iLl limc 1U1 1CL.X

^J develop intO Z OOZC floWCr if it

* L

js preserved and the growths below
it are removed. This operation is called "taking the bud."

Observe, we say " if it has come at the right time for the variety."
"Are there, then," it may be asked, "differences in varieties with
respect to the rate of development from the appearance of the bud
to the maturity of the bloom ? " Certainly there are, and it is these
variations which constitute one of the great problems of Chrysan-
themum growers. No rule can be given which will govern all
varieties. If there could, growing prize Chrysanthemums would
be a much more simple matter than it is now. Generally speak-
ing, buds which come at the middle, or even the end, of July

CHRYSANTHEMUMS— TERMINAL BUD AND
HOW TO "TAKE" IT

A, end of branch on which terminal bud B is
borne ; C, C, C, smaller side buds which
must be removed while they are quite small ;
D shows result — the central terminal swelling
satisfactorily.

THE CHRYSANTHEMUM 307

are too early. The middle of August is nearer the time for
most sorts.

If the first " crown " bud comes too early it is pinched out just
the same as the first " break " bud was, and the best of the in-
cipient shoots below taken on, the others being removed. If this
is done with each of the shoots it follows that the number of
flowering branches will not be increased; there will still be only
three.

There will be a much shorter lapse of time between the appear-
ance of the second and third buds
than there was between the first
and second. It will probably be
less than a month. The third bud
will have the same appearance as the
second, and it is called the "second
crown." It is this " second crown "
bud which is generally taken ; in
other words, more prize flowers are
got from it than from any other.
Occasionally it is sacrificed, the dis-
budding prOCeSS repeated, and the A shows end of branch on which crown bud B is

borne; C, C, C, side shoots which must be
pinched off while quite small ; D shows result
— crown bud swelling satisfactorily.

CHRYSANTHEMUMS— CROWN BUD AND HOW
TO "TAKK" IT

fourth or "third crown" bud taken.

In still fewer cases no " crown " bud

is preserved, but the plant allowed to finish with a cluster of buds,

the best of which is taken and called the " terminal." Flowers

from "crown" and "terminal" buds are generally quite different,

although the variety is the same.

It will be seen that the matter of bud selection in Chrysanthe-
mums is a somewhat complicated one, and requires considerable
study. But if complex it is also very interesting.

How can a beginner in growing Chrysanthemums for exhibition
learn how to manage the different varieties in order to have a
number of them all at their best at one time? He can acquire

308 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

knowledge in two ways: (i) By studying the hints which are
given in the catalogues of the principal dealers in Chrysanthemums,
in gardening papers, and in books on the flower; (2) by his own
practical experiments, observations, and records. In his early days
as an exhibitor he will certainly need guidance from men of greater
experience. How necessary it is to master the question is shown
by the fact that one expert, Mr. H. J. Jones, gave a list of no
fewer than fourteen types. Here is his key: —

TYPE

1. Pinch the tip out of the shoot about the first week of April, and secure second

crown buds.

2. Pinch the plants during the first week of May, and secure first crown buds.

3. Let the plants break naturally, and secure first crown buds.

4. Let the plants make a natural break, and secure late crown buds (approximately

the third to the last week in August).

5. Pinch the plants during the third week of April, and secure second crown buds.

6. Pinch the plants during the first week of May, and secure first crown buds.

7. Pinch the plants during the third week of March, and secure second crown buds.

8. Pinch the plants during the second week of April, and secure first crown buds.

9. Allow the plants to break naturally, and secure second crown buds, but propagate

early in the year, or during December of the previous year.

10. Pinch the plants at the end of February, and secure first crown buds.

11. Stop early in February, and secure first crown buds.

12. Pinch March I for second crown buds.

13. Stop March I for first crown buds.

14. Stop first week in March, take up three shoots, stop again the last week in May,

and then secure the first bud.

It will be seen that Mr. Jones anticipates the " first break " in
a good many cases by stopping or pinching the young plants
before it appears naturally. Although his system may appear
cumbrous, it is really quite intelligible. In his own case he merely
puts a letter to each type, and a corresponding letter to each variety
when experience teaches him how to treat it, and he has a clear
and plain guide. Probably no better plan could be devised for
achieving the object of getting each member of a collection at its
best during the first half of November, when most of the Chrysan-
themum shows are held.

We will now give consideration to the cultivation of Chrysan-

THE CHRYSANTHEMUM 309

themums for decoration, both imder glass and out of doors. If
we devote less space to these branches of the subject than to culture
for exhibition, it is not because we regard them as of inferior
interest and importance, but because the procedure, being simpler,
can be described in fewer words.

No grower of Chrysanthemums should devote the whole of his
conservatory space to plants grown on the exhibition system, for
they are mostly rather tall and upright, and show a good deal of
pot. He should grow some bush plants
in addition, and not restrict them so
severely, either in growth or buds. We
do not say that he should simply strike
cuttings, and then let the plants grow
as they like ; but he should content
himself with a little stopping and dis-
budding.

In the first place, the plants need not
be raised so early as those intended for
show blooms. Spring propagation will do
quite well, and that is a great advantage,
as it leaves more house room for other
things that need it more. If suckers
are available in spring they may be
made use of, but if they are not, then
young shoots from growing plants may be taken, or young plants
bought for the purpose. When they have grown to not more
than eight inches high the tips may be pinched off, and this
will cause buds below to start ; these will form shoots, and may
be stopped in their turn when about four inches long, with the
object of causing still more buds to break. The two pinchings
or stoppings indicated will have the effect of causing the plants
to form strong side branches, and thus assume a bushy habit.
They will differ entirely from the big-bloom plants ; they will

CHRYSANTHEMUMS— CUTTING DOWN

A, main stem cut down to cause later
growth and dwarfer habit ; B, side
shoots growing, and duly stopped ;
C shows resultant new growth ; D
shows the top shoot if only one is
to be retained and trained upright
as shown at E.

/£— -

310 BEAUTIFUL FLOWEKS

be dwarfer and more spreading; they will have more branches.
As a rule they will not require any further manipulation in
order to make them into neat plants, but they may be pinched
again at a later stage if necessary.

If buds show at the tips of the shoots early in summer they
should be pinched out, except in the case of plants which are
desired to bloom early. We will presently name some varieties
t that are naturally early bloomers, and

others which will flower later.

When, with the flowering season ap-
proaching, buds are allowed to remain,
the question will arise as to whether all
which form should be allowed to expand,
or whether the clusters should be thinned.
It all depends on whether the grower's
principal object is a handsome plant or a
large quantity of flowers for cutting. If
the former, he may thin the buds, allow-
ing about a dozen flowers to each plant ;
if the latter, he may allow all the
buds to remain. Disbudding, it should
be remembered, means fewer and larger
flowers.

CHRYSANTHEMUMS — STOPPING TO
FORM BUSHES, &c.

A, main stem pinched; B, B, B, re-
sultant side shoots; C, C, C, C

A plan that is adopted by some growers is to allow plants to
develop on one stem until the end of May, and then cut them
down to within a few inches of the pot. This dwarfs the plants,
and they will still produce large flowers if they are restricted to
three shoots and crown buds are taken ; if not, they will make
nice bushes. The upper part of the severed branch can be treated
as a cutting and struck. Plants raised thus in May, or even up
to the end of July, make very useful short material for standing
in front of groups of tall plants and hiding the large pots with a
screen of foliage and flowers.

THE CHRYSANTHEMUM 311

In former years it was only the large-flowered double Chrysan-
themums which were grown in pots to any extent, but now single
varieties are extensively cultivated in this way. They certainly
make more graceful decorative plants than the large-flowered
doubles. Most of them spread well and flower freely. The
blooms are really like coloured Marguerites, or they may be
likened to single Pyrethrums, which are so popular for spring
flowering in the garden. They do not require any staking, as
they are quite self-supporting. The everyday amateur with a
small greenhouse or conservatory may be excused for shrinking
from the complex and exacting study of growing Chrysanthemums
in pots on the show system, but he need have no fear of trying
the plants in the more natural way here described. He will find
the plants very tractable, and when they are in full bloom his
small structure will be very gay, cheerful, and enjoyable at a period
when without Chrysanthemums it would be bare and devoid of
charm.

Chrysanthemums are so beautiful for garden decoration that
we find it difficult to understand why they are not used more.
In part it is doubtless due to the fact that they are generally
regarded as indoor plants, and not hardy. It is somewhat curious
that the space which Chrysanthemums might have in gardens but
for the belief that they are tender is generally given to Dahlias,
which are distinctly less hardy. We have no desire to disparage
Dahlias. They are beautiful flowers, and we have given them
warm praise in another chapter ; but we should certainly like to
see Chrysanthemums more frequently grown in flower-gardens, even
if the space devoted to Dahlias had to be curtailed somewhat.

There is no more attractive flower-garden plant than the bril-
liant Chrysanthemum. It combines graceful growth with beautiful
and varied colours. Glorious masses of colour may be made by
growing a few of the brightest varieties in groups. No small
advantage connected with the plant is that it may be transplanted

312 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

from one place to another even when in bud, so long as the pre-
caution is taken of well watering the soil first, and taking the
plant up with a good deal of earth. The work is best done in
showery weather. Plants so shifted soon re-establish themselves,
and in a few days are growing freely. In due season they bloom
well. The importance of this lies in the fact that a succession of
flowers can be arranged in a border without overcrowding. Instead
of cramming the Chrysanthemums into the border, there to half
smother themselves while they are waiting to take the place of
earlier flowers when the latter shall have faded, the Chrysanthe-
mums can be planted in good soil in some spare plot, with plenty
of room to grow into healthy and vigorous specimens. Earlier
things can be cut down when they are over, and the Chrysanthe-
mums planted near them. This greatly extends the beauty of a
border. Similarly, beds may be planted with Chrysanthemums
after summer flowers have faded.

Although the cottager generally allows his Chrysanthemums to
look after themselves year after year, not troubling to take them
up and divide them, or to raise fresh stock from cuttings, or to
give fresh soil, outdoor plants benefit by attention. The clumps
may be split up very much like a Michaelmas Daisy, and when
they start growing in spring, planted in fresh, manured soil. But
probably the best plants are got by raising a few fresh ones from
cuttings every spring. This does not involve much trouble, and
it insures young, vigorous plants which will produce abund-
ance of large, brilliant flowers. Soakings of water in dry weather,
and occasional doses of liquid manure, will of course benefit the
plants.

The Pompon and Single varieties are the most generally useful
for outdoor culture, owing to their branching yet neat habit and
abundance of bright flowers. They can be cut from freely, and will
prove quite capable of yielding a great deal of material for room
decoration, as well as making a brilliant display in the garden.

THE CHRYSANTHEMUM 313

A few words may be devoted to the enemies of Chrysanthemums
before concluding with some remarks about varieties. Some of
these enemies are insects, others fungi. The ubiquitous aphis is
among the former, and the grower who finds it on his plants,
in however limited numbers and under whatever colour, should
never rest until he has exterminated it. He may succeed with
almost any of the advertised insecticides, or with Quassia water,
or with paraffin and soft soap, which have been described in pre-
vious chapters. As there advised, the appearance of the very first
insect should be the signal for the commencement of hostilities.

There are several fungoid enemies. One of comparatively recent
origin is rust, which forms large, brown, wart-like excrescences on
the leaves ; and if allowed to spread, speedily causes the death of
the plant. When it first appeared very serious apprehensions were
entertained respecting it. The early days of the Potato disease
and the Hollyhock murrain were recalled, and pessimists were not
slow to prophesy a fate for the Chrysanthemum analogous to that
which had befallen the latter plant. However, things did not turn
out so badly as had been feared. It was found that if affected plants
were promptly removed and sprayed with liver of sulphur (sulphide
of potassium), at the rate of half an ounce per gallon of water, at
the first sign of an attack, the disease could be kept under. At
the time of writing it has had several years in which to spread,
but has not done so ; and it may therefore be fairly assumed that
the grower has found a means of keeping it under, and that only
in case of neglect on his part is it likely to become a real menace
to the plant.

Mildew is an old enemy, which coats the leaves with a whitish
powder. It generally appears shortly after the plants have been
put under glass in autumn, and is a result of sodden soil, or cold
draughts, or a heavy, humid atmosphere. Free ventilation, with
care in avoiding draughts ; a lively, fresh atmosphere ; and a soil
which, while just moist, is never saturated, will keep mildew at

(2,299)

314

BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

bay. Should it appear, however, the foliage must be dusted at
once with flowers of sulphur.

The main difficulty of the authors of a gardening work which is
to have permanent value is that of dealing with varieties. Species
are fixed, varieties are ever changing. The novelty of one year
is the veteran of the third or fourth year afterwards. In certain
very popular flowers, notably Roses, Sweet Peas, Dahlias, and
Chrysanthemums, whole strings of new varieties come out every
year. For this reason we cannot give lists of varieties that we
are sure will be as desirable in a few years' time as they are
to-day. We can only name some of those which are the best at
the time of writing. They may or may not be superseded a few
years hence.

A SELECTION OF JAPANESE CHRYSANTHEMUMS

Algernon Davis, bronze, chestnut shad-
ing.

Arthur Du Cros, purplish rose.

Bessie Godfrey, canary.

^Brilliant, amaranth.

Distinction, salmon.

Edith Jameson, pale pink.

Evelyn Archer, pink.

^Florence Penford, lemon, chrome reverse.

*F. W. Lever, cream.

General Hutton, golden yellow.

*Henry Perkins, yellow, flaked chestnut.

*/• H. Silsbury, crimson, yellow reverse.

*John Peed, white, rose edge.

Joseph Stoney, crimson.

Lady Conyers, pink, silvery reverse.

*Lady Hopetoun, silvery blush.

Lady Lennard, amber.

Lady Talbot, primrose.

*Leigh Park Wonder, dark crimson.

*Madame G. Rivol, yellow, shaded rose.

*Madame Paolo Radaelli, very soft pink
or ivory.

*Madame R. Cadbury^ ivory.

* 'Madame R. Oberthur, white.
^Magnificent^ crimson, yellow reverse.
Marquis of Northampton, buff, suffused

with rost.

*Marquise V. Venosta, white.
^Master David* crimson, gold reverse.
*Melchett Beauty, yellow, flaked rose.
*Miss Elsie Pulton, white.
Miss Gertie Court, rosy red.
*Mr. F. S. V*llis, yellow.
*Mrs. A. H. Lee, crimson.
*Mrs. A. T. Miller, white.
*Mrs. Barkley, rosy mauve.
Mrs. F. Coster* orange.
*Mrs. F. W. Vallis, crimson.
*Mrs. G. Miitham, rose, silvery reverse.
*Mrs. J. W. Coley white.
Mrs. W. Jinks* rose.
Mrs. W. Knox, yellow.
*Norman Davis, brownish red, yellow

veins.

O. H. Brootnnead, deep rose.
Olive Miller, blush.
^President Viger, lilac.

315

+Rev. R. D. Eves, white, pink tinting.
Reginald Vallis, rose.
Splendour, yellow, suffused rose.

Valerie Greenham, lilac.

W. A. Etkerington, salmon pink.

Wm. Beadle, crimson.

The foregoing are all suitable for exhibition. Those marked * may be chosen for

a small collection.

A SELECTION OF DECORATIVE AND CUT-FLOWER JAPANESE

Crimson Source dor, crimson.
Ettie Mitchell, bronzy yellow.
Framfield Yellow, golden yellow.
Heston White, pure white.
Lady Selborne, white, early.
La Triomphante, white.
Madame F. Perrin, pink.
Madame G. Debrie, soft pink.
Market Gold, yellow, late.
Money Maker, white.

N. C. S. Jubilee, lavender.
Nelly Blake, crimson, early.
Niveus, white, late.
October Crimson, red.
Soleil dOctobre, yellow, early.
Source dor, orange.
Tuxedo, bronze, late.
Viviand Morel, pink.
Winter Cheer, amaranth, late.
W. H. Lincoln, yellow, late.

A SELECTION OF INCURVED

A. H. Hall, purple.
Buttercup, yellow.
Chas. H. Curtis, yellow.
Duchess of Fife, white, lilac streaks.
Embleme Poitevine, yellow.
Godfrey's Reliance^ chestnut, gold re-
verse.

Lady Isabel, lavender.

Lady well, lilac.

Mrs. Barnard Hankey, mahogany.

Mrs. F. Judson, white.

Mrs. G. Denyers, pale pink.

Triomphe de Montbrun, crimson and buff.

W. Biddle, lemon.

A SELECTION OF DOUBLE GARDEN VARIETIES

Carrie, yellow.

Champ dor, yellow.

Claret, dark red.

Fire-light, red, yellow reverse.

Freedom^ rosy purple.

Goachers Crimson, red, yellow reverse.

Harvest Home, red, yellow tips.

Horace Martin, yellow.

Jimmie, purplish crimson.

Le Cygne, white, late.

Le Pactole> bronze.

Lillie, pearly pink.

Market White, cream.

Maxim, chestnut, yellow shading,

Minnie Carpenter, terra-cotta.

Mina Blick, bronzy red.

Rabbie Burns, salmon pink.

Rubis, claret.

White Quintus, white.

316

BEAUTIFUL FLOWE11S

A SELECTION OF EARLY GARDEN OR POT SINGLES

Dolly Iniff, crimson, shading off to orange.
Distinction, rosy cerise.
Florence Gillham, white.
Gem of Merstham, crimson.

Good Hope, rose.
Kingcup, yellow.
Mrs. C. Curtis, crimson.
Pink Beauty, pink.

A SELECTION OF LATE -FLO WE RING SINGLES FOR POTS

Bronze Edith Pagram, bronze, yellow

base.

Canary Bird, yellow.
Crimson Queen, red.
Dainty, yellow.
Emile, pink.
Felicity, ivory.
Florrie King, pink.
Gaiety, salmon.

Gladys Hemsley, pink.

Mary Anderson, blush.

Merstham White, white.

Miss Craig, white.

Mrs. Givynn Powell, blush.

Reine des Roses, pink.

Reggie, crimson, yellow ring.

Ronald Ferguson, blush.

Sylvia Slade, crimson, white ring.

A SELECTION OF REFLEXED VARIETIES

Chevalier Damage, yellow.
Dr. Sharpe, magenta.
Emperor of China, blush.

King of Crimsons, crimson.
Pink Christine, pink.
Progne, amaranth, fragrant.

A SELECTION OF LARGE-ANEMONE VARIETIES

Delaware, white, yellow centre.
Descartes, crimson.
Gluck, yellow.

Lady Margaret, white.
Prince of Anemones, lilac.

A SELECTION OF POMPON VARIETIES

Bob, brownish crimson. | Mdlle. Marthe, white. | Wm. Westlake, yellow.

TENDER BEDDING PLANTS

THE Tulip mania is so far back as to be entirely a matter of
history, but many people who are still living can remember when
the bedding-plant craze was raging. Perhaps some of them may
contend that the word "craze" is somewhat too strong, urging that
the passion for special Zonal Pelargoniums ("Geraniums") never
ran so high, or took such extravagant shapes, as the Tulip rage.
Certainly we have not heard of people feverishly outbidding each
other, or of houses being bartered, for single plants, of speculation
as mad and excited as that which marked the South Sea Bubble;
and we have no objection to the substitution of the milder word
"obsession," if it is calculated to soothe the susceptibilities of
sensitive readers.

ZONAL PELARGONIUMS ("GERANIUMS")

Two-thirds of the way through the last century flower gardeners
were undoubtedly obsessed by the Geranium as a flower-garden
plant. It was the undisputed queen of the border. New varieties
were sought after eagerly by amateurs, and as a consequence they
became a valuable commercial commodity. Raisers gave as much
attention to them as they give to Sweet Peas, Roses, and Dahlias
at the present time. Prices ruled high, and the fortunate raiser of
a distinct and (as judged by the standards which ruled gardening
then) particularly valuable variety reaped a golden harvest.

We are old enough to remember when the leading trade and
amateur florists clustered eagerly round a new variety of Geranium,
when an earnest committee of experts sat in solemn conclave con-
sidering its merits, when the greenhouses of the leading nurserymen

817

318 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

were packed with novelties in Zonals, when gardeners led their
visitors proudly from bed to bed and from ribbon border to ribbon
border, and when as much as a guinea a plant was paid for a
newcomer. The Geranium is largely grown still, but those proud
days have passed, and it is very unlikely that they will ever return.
The bright old plant has had its hour of glory, and must now be
content with playing a minor part in the designs of flower-lovers.

It is to be noted that in the old days Geranium raisers worked
for leaf quite as much as for flower beauty — indeed, it was the
markings of the foliage, in the form of a zone, that first gave the
class its distinctive name of Zonal. The popular name of Geranium
should never have been applied to the plant, because there is a
genus of hardy plants which has a proper botanical claim to the
name Geranium. Nor are the true Geraniums obscure and com-
monplace plants. They are grown in thousands of gardens, and
are very beautiful. They differ from the pseudo-Geranium (the
Zonal) in being perfectly hardy. This case of popular nomenclature,
with its attendant confusion, places a weapon in the hands of those
who support a classical system of naming plants, and who drive
home the point that an indiscriminate and unsystematic plan of
naming must inevitably lead to confusion. It is to be feared that
there is only too much truth in this. We say feared, because we
are firmly convinced that the stiff Latin names of many beautiful
plants are a real obstacle to their general cultivation, and we would
gladly see names given to them which are easier of pronunciation
by the multitude.

The popular Zonal Geraniums of former days, which were
grown for the beauty of their leaves, were so numerous that they
had to be divided into sub-sections, such as Golden Tricolor,
Silver Tricolor, Golden Bronze, Black-leaved, Yellow-leaved, and
White-edged. The famous Mrs. Pollock, the advent of which
caused quite a furore, was a Golden Tricolor, and another re-
nowned variety in this class was Peter Grieve. Golden Harry

TENDER BEDDING PLANTS 319

Hieover was a well-known representative of the Bronze section,
and Crystal Palace Gem of the Yellow-leaved, while Flower of
Spring held an assured place among the White-edges.

In recalling the varieties which were most largely grown for
the beauty of their flowers, the names of Vesuvius, Henry Jacoby,
John Gibbons, and Master Christine come back to us. They
were the popular varieties of our boyhood, and on them we prac-
tised the art of making cuttings for the first time. They were
planted in beds, and they formed the most important constituent
in ribbon borders. We may remind readers that a typical old-
time "ribbon border11 consisted of a row of scarlet Zonal Gera-
niums, a row of yellow Calceolarias, and a row of blue Lobelias.
Do many readers, owners of beautiful herbaceous borders, smile
at so crude a combination? If so, let the smile be one not
wholly of contempt, but one containing a flavour of sympathy and
indulgence. At the worst, our forefathers were making towards
beauty. They were brightening their home surroundings with
objects of cheerful innocence at a period when the bulk of the
nation was enamoured of coarse and brutal sports. Their influence
was assuredly not wholly pernicious. They won many converts to
the pleasure and benefits of flower-growing who may have had
no higher ideal previously than the prize-ring. They aroused a
love of flowers in simple minds which could never have been
influenced by the canons of high art. We may, indeed, say of
the old-style flower gardening that it was well calculated, by its
bright simplicity, to attract the elementary natures which invariably
preponderate in a commercial nation, just as simple and obvious
melodies win countless people to a love of music.

In due course cultured flower-lovers got tired of ribbon borders,
but they did not give up gardening because they had grown weary
of brilliant Geraniums. They asked for something more artistic.
They took a step forward. They widened their borders, and filled
them with beautiful flowering shrubs and herbaceous plants. The

320 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

change was admittedly one for the better, and while retaining an
affection for the bright old favourites of the mid-Victorian era,
we readily agree that modern flower gardening is of a higher
artistic standard than the old. We think, however, that the Zonal
Geranium has not yet done all the good work of which it is
capable, any more than "Home, Sweet Home." There are still
great possibilities left in it. The old varieties which we have
named are still with us, and they are supported by many modern
sorts. It has to be remembered that large numbers of people who
gave up growing Zonals for summer flowering in the garden
retained them for blooming under glass in winter; indeed, the
plant progressed almost as rapidly in one direction as it receded
in the other. Raisers of Zonals did not find their "occupation
gone"; they only found that they must work in a different
direction. Amateurs gave up asking for Zonals with handsome
foliage, and for bedders, but they clamoured even more eagerly
than before for Zonals with large, round flowers, bright colours, and
good habit that would bloom throughout the winter.

The thing that might have been expected has happened. With
the plants closer under their eyes in the greenhouse than they
were in the garden, amateurs have come to pay more attention to
form of flower than they used to do. The modern Zonal must
have a perfectly circular bloom, with the florets overlapping evenly.
A flower of uneven outline, and which shows gaps between the
petals, is not cared for. If a variety has these imperfections,
amateurs will not grow it, however dwarf and free flowering it
may be.

Those readers who have come into flower gardening in recent
years, and under the influence of the modern school, may read
with some surprise remarks which tend to suggest that, in spite of
the decline of the Zonal in large flower gardens, the number of
varieties has increased. It most certainly has done so. There is
a far larger selection of sorts than there was twenty years ago.

A SUBURBAN GARDEN, HAMPSTEAD
By Beatrice Parsons

TENDER BEDDING PLANTS 321

And the fact that they have been developed with an eye rather to
the winter conservatory than the summer garden must not lead to
the assumption that they are useless out of doors. Many of them
are quite suitable for the garden.

Town and suburban gardeners are still very partial to the
Zonal. They grow it in their little plots and on their window
ledges. What braver, brighter flower is there for a box in a
hot place than the Zonal? What more useful plant for a sun-
scorched border? The country cottager uses it too, and so does
the farmer. The latter does not generally study flower gardening
very closely. He has other fish to fry. As long as he is suc-
cessful with his cattle, he does not mind being told that he is
behind the times with his flowers. He will put in a ribbon
border quite cheerfully to this very day.

Let us, hoping for still more good from the bright, cheerful,
and enticing effect of the Zonal Geranium, take it quite seriously
as a bedding plant even in these days of hardy flowers. Let us
recognise that it is a force — still eminently worthy of attention.
We will not suggest that beds should be filled with it, nor even
that ribbon borders of the time-honoured red, yellow, and blue
should be formed, but we will hint that a few colonies of good
Zonals — say clumps of a dozen plants — might very well be arranged
in mixed borders. Again, there are hot, dry borders under walls
which often go bare because of the difficulty of finding plants that
will endure the poverty and aridity. If strong, well-rooted Zonals
are put out and given a few waterings, the chances are that they
will thrive, and flower brilliantly for several months. Further,
there may be tubs or vases to fill. This is not exactly bedding,
but it comes near it.

Zonal Geraniums are generally planted in spring, and at that
period they are undeniably tender, although it takes more than a
slight frost to kill them in autumn, when the stems have grown
thick and woody. The spring plants have been made tender by

ZONAL

* ""

322 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

being grown under glass, possibly in a crowded state. The pro-
vision of accommodation for the plants in spring presents one of
the real drawbacks to the culture of Zonals for bedding. During

the winter there is very little trouble,
because the plants are quite small (those,
at all events, which were struck as
cuttings the previous summer), and they
will remain quiescent if the house is
cool. But with the warmth of spring
comes growth, and demands for more

A, drainage; B, sand on the surface of the SpaCC, which IS UOt always provided

soil; C, cuttings inserted at 4 in. apart. . . . .

easily. Directly the weather permits, the

plants should be put into frames or pits, but thick mats must
be kept handy for putting over the glass on cold nights. The
cooler the atmosphere and the nearer the
plants are to the glass, the sturdier they
will be. They will grow, but not rapidly.

They should be kept in the boxes wherein
they were placed in autumn as long as pos-
sible, but not so long that they get very
crowded, as that weakens them. Rather
than this they ought to be put singly in
small pots — say 3-inch or 4-inch. Full ex-
posure to the air should be given in fine
weather. Plants that are treated in this
way will be in excellent condition for plant-

t1 ••««- T MI

ing in beds or boxes in May. In mild

i • . • . , 1 . ., -in

districts they may be put out at the middle

of the month, but in cold localities the planting should be deferred

until the end.

Some growers of Zonals like to keep the old plants through the
winter, in order to save the housing of young stock. When they
lift the plants from the beds in autumn they prune in both branches

SHOWING HOW TO TREAT A PLANT
FOR WINTER FLOWERING

A shows the top pinched off; B, B,
side-shoots will grow afterwards
as denoted by the dotted lines.

TENDER BEDDING PLANTS 323

and roots, leaving no more than short stumps in both cases. When
the plants are thus deprived of foliage they need no longer be ex-
posed to light, but may be hung up in a cellar or attic. It cannot
be said that the plan is always successful. Failure sometimes
ensues through the plants rotting off, and they are most likely to
do this when the place in which they are stored is damp. Decay
can be staved off sometimes by cutting out the parts affected and
dusting lime on ; indeed, the plants should be examined periodically
in order to see if they require such attention. Success turns upon
the promptitude with which incipient decay is dealt. Provided that
the plants can be kept sound, the plan is excellent, as fresh growth
starts in spring, and nice plants
soon develop.

Zonals will thrive in almost
any kind of soil. They grow the
most rapidly in rich soil, natu-
rally, but there is such a thing as
over-luxuriance. Very free growth

BEDDING-OUT ZONAL GERANIUMS

means large, succulent plants, which A> A> tel1 sPecimens planted m » slanting position;

B, a dwarfer specimen planted upright.

do not flower very well, especially

in a wet season. Shorter, harder plants are likely to bloom
better, and they will certainly keep on longer in autumn, because
the tough growth will resist the cold. The facts being thus, it
is not wise to prepare the soil so liberally as would be the case if
preparing for prize Sweet Peas. There is no occasion for trench-
ing or manuring; the ground should be well dug — that is all. In
poor soil the plants may be put in fifteen inches apart ; in fertile
ground, eighteen inches. Gardeners who have to deal with old,
scraggy plants, which exhibit an inordinate amount of bare stem,
adopt the plan of inserting them in a sloping position, so as to
bring the tops nearer to the ground.

Zonals with beautiful foliage rarely have really fine blooms, but
they can be associated with other plants which are attractive by

324 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

reason of their flowers. A Golden Tricolor can be put among
plants of Lobelia fulgens, which has dark foliage and long spikes

of scarlet flowers. The leaf harmonies
thus produced are very pleasing. Or
they can be mixed with fibrous-rooted
Begonias. Another plan is to use a
mixture of silver-leaved Zonals and
blue Violas. Pretty beds are thus
formed, which retain their beauty for
a great many weeks.

The cultural routine is very simple.
It consists mainly in removing decay-

A CUTTING OF ZONAL GERANIUM Jng bloom trUSSCS promptly, and in

A shows the place where the stem must be cut keepinor down WCCds. The former Can
off; B, B show the basal leaves that should

also be cut off; and c shows the flower ke done by pinching off the flower-
stem. This must be removed.

stem low down with finger and thumb,

the latter by hoeing. It is desirable to give particular attention
to the removal of decaying flowers in
damp weather, as if the petals fall and
cling to the moist leaves the foliage
may become diseased.

Propagation is generally effected by
taking cuttings in August. Short, non-
flowering side-shoots are the most suit-
able material. If they can be taken off
just under a joint, about four inches
long, they will do admirably. The foli-
age should be removed from the lower
part, leaving about two inches of clear

stem. It is common to insert them in the open air, either in a
bed or boxes. If the former, make the soil fine, level, and firm.
If the latter, prepare a very sandy compost, and make it firm
in the boxes. The cuttings should be inserted about four inches

A ZONAL GERANIUM CUTTING MAPS

READY FOR INSERTION

TENDER BEDDING PLANTS 325

apart, and it is important that the base should be quite firm. Full
exposure to the sun may be given, as the succulent shoots con-
tain abundant stores of moisture, and will not flag and shrivel
under exposure, the same as thin cuttings would do. The cuttings
will steadily push roots, but they are not
likely to be sufficiently rooted to make
much top growth before winter, and this
is all the better, so long as they are alive
and healthy. The smaller they are the
less room they will take up.

The cooler the surroundings are
throughout the winter the better, pro-
vided neither frost nor damp is present.
The air should be kept as dry as pos- ZONAL GERAN1UM CUTTING
sible. Very little water will be required, IN FLOW«-*OT

t i i j i i_ • | A shows sand at the base of the cutting ;

and a supply should only be given when B shows sand on the surface of the

- ... . . , soil in the pot.

the soil becomes quite dry.

We will conclude our remarks on the Zonal Pelargonium as a
flower-garden plant with a selection of varieties, which shall include
varieties that are attractive by reason of their foliage, and others
that are admired for their flowers.

FLOWERING ZONALS

Beckwittts Pink (Mrs. Robert Hayes). — A well-known single
variety, very free blooming and bright in colour.

Henry Jacoby. — A very old favourite, crimson, single, a profuse
bloomer and of very rich colour. A variety of somewhat more
erect habit can be got under the name of Henry Jacoby Im-
proved.

John Gibbons.— Orange, very brilliant, single flowers.

Paul Crampel. — A magnificent single scarlet, of good habit and
with immense flower trusses, which are borne profusely throughout

326 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

the season. This is certainly one of the finest of all the bedding
Zonals.

Phyllis. — Rosy salmon, single flowers.

Swanky Single White. — The name describes this excellent
variety.

In addition to the above singles we feel constrained to mention
those favourites of former days, Vesuvius and West Brighton
Gem, if only as a matter of sentiment, although we think that
both are inferior to the modern Paul Crampel. Vesuvius was the
great bedding scarlet of the old-time bedders, and West Brighton
Gem was a sport from it with pale flower stalks and stems. They
are still as bright as any, but are surpassed in size of truss by
newer varieties. Surprise may also be mentioned ; it is a salmon-
coloured form of Vesuvius. Other good salmons are Mrs. Robert
Cannell and Omphale, other pinks Cannell's Pink and Olive Carr.

Double Henry Jacoby. — This is a double variety of the old
favourite crimson.

F. V. Raspail. — A popular scarlet double, free blooming.

Hermione. — One of the best of the double whites.

King of Denmark. — A good double salmon.

Ville de Poictiers. — Double scarlet.

We have selected the above varieties, both in the case of singles
and doubles, because they are all of suitable habit for bedding;
but any reader who has a favourite round-flowered single which he
has been growing under glass may try it out of doors if he likes.
Plants that have bloomed under glass in winter or spring may
be planted out of doors in May if desired.

FOLIAGE ZONALS

Mr. Henry Cox. — A Golden Tricolor, with crimson zone ; one
of the best.

Masterpiece. — Golden Tricolor, very large, dark zone.

327

TENDER BEDDING PLANTS

Mrs. Pollock. — Golden Tricolor, the old favourite.

Mrs. Miller. — Silver Tricolor, rich dark zone.

Dolly Varden. — Silver Tricolor, bright red zone.

Jiibilee. — Golden Bronze, chestnut zone, salmon flowers.

Golden Harry Hieover. — Golden Bronze, a dwarf grower.

LEnfer. — Very dark foliage and bright scarlet flowers, an
effective variety.

Crystal Palace Gem. — Yellow leaves, bright flowers.

Flower of Spring. — Creamy foliage, dwarf, neat habit.

Other popular foliage Zonals are Peter Grieve, Distinction, White
Distinction, Robert Fish, Boule de Neige, and Brilliantissimum.

IVY-LEAVED PELARGONIUMS

The Ivy-leaved "Geranium" has grown steadily in favour,
both as a flower-garden and indoor plant, during recent years. It
is somewhat singular to reflect that
it has never come under the ban of
hardy flower lovers in the same way
that the Zonal has — singular, inasmuch
as it possesses practically similar de-
fects as well as similar good qualities.
It is tender, it is just a little garish.
Why should it not be tabu, equally
with the Zonal? Perhaps there is no
better explanation than that it never
formed a part of the old ribbon border

• «

system, which aroused so much ab- A
horrence

In their hearts all hardy plants-
men realise fully that the " Geranium "
is a plant which can never drop out of our gardens. It is too
persistent in blooming, too accommodating, too bright and varied

PROPAGATING IVY-LRAVKD GERANIUMS

[lows how to prepare the cutting. The
stem is severed below a joint, and the
two lowest leaves are removed. B, sand
on the surface of the soil. C, C, sand at
the base of the cuttings.

328 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

in colour, ever to "go under" entirely. Many of them hanker
after it themselves, and perhaps one reason for the rise in favour
of the Ivy-leaved class is that it is accepted in the nature of
a compromise. One can imagine a hardy plant lover respond-
ing to the raised eyebrows of a visitor of congenial tastes by
hastily saying: "Ah! but these are the Ivy-leaved Geraniums,
you know — quite different from the old Zonals."

Whatever the reason may be — whether as a substitute for
Zonals or because of their own intrinsic merit — it is quite certain

that the Ivy-leaved section enjoys great
favour. It is grown in the garden, in
the conservatory, in vases, and in window-
boxes. Its habit is loose and flowing.
It droops flower-laden streamers from
the summit of pillars, and from window
ledges. Its flowers are large and abun-
dant, and they come in a long suc-
cession throughout the summer. The
leaves have not the brilliant markings of
the handsome Zonals, but the Ivy shape

IVY-LEAVED GERANIUM

cutting weii rooted and ready for potting is attractive. The plants look charming

singly in small pots.

on banks, and as they possess much

of the drought-resisting power of the Zonals, owing to their suc-
culence, they will thrive in hot places. We think, however,
that they may be given a somewhat better soil than the Zonals
without fear of their making such exuberance of growth as to
flower badly.

The Ivy-leaved Geraniums can be bought with single or double
flowers, but the latter are much the more largely used. They are
often planted in raised beds, or trained to stumps in flat beds,
with dwarfer plants among them. In both cases their drooping,
flower-laden stems show to advantage.

As the Ivy-leaved Geraniums are tender, like the Zonals, they

SINGLE CHRYSANTHEMUM
By Beatrice Parsons

TENDER BEDDING PLANTS 329

ought not to be planted before mid-May. If planted on the level,
and in fertile soil, they may be put two feet apart. If trained
on logs or stumps, another foot should be allowed. Beyond a
little training of the shoots, hoeing to keep weeds under, and the
removal of decaying flower trusses, the plants will need no atten-
tion. It is only in quite exceptional weather that they will require
watering, when once fairly established.

The best method of propagation is to strike cuttings a few
inches apart in boxes in August, the same as Zonals.

The following are beautiful varieties of Ivy-leaved Geraniums
for bedding. Only doubles are named, as they are much better
than the singles.

Achievement. — Salmon and pink.

Flambeau. — Scarlet.

Galilee. — Rosy pink.

Madame Crousse. — Silvery pink.

Robert Owen. — Deep rose.

Ryecroft Surprise. — Salmon pink.

Souvenir de Charles Turner. — Maroon and pink.

Madame Crousse and Souvenir de Charles Turner may be
chosen if two only are required. They are free bloomers, have
large, double flowers, and the colours are distinct and pleasing.

CALCEOLARIAS

We have said that one of the components of an old-time ribbon
border was the yellow Calceolaria. Lovers of herbaceous Calceo-
larias, which they grow for decorating greenhouses and conserva-
tories in early summer, will know that the bedding type belongs to
a different class. It retains its stems after flowering, instead of
dying down, and is therefore termed shrubby. It is, indeed, an
evergreen, and although not quite hardy, is by no means a tender
plant. The flowers are of similar form to the herbaceous, but

(2,299)

330 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

much smaller. There is no great range of colours among the
shrubby garden Calceolarias, although they are not all yellow.
There are white, orange, red, and violet species in addition to the
yellow. Some of those grown for bedding are garden hybrids,
varieties, or selections. Such are Bijou, Gaines's Yellow, Golden
Gem, Sultan, and Golden Glory. Of these the last is by far the
finest. It is a splendid plant with large trusses, and the colour is
bright yellow. Most of these Calceolarias have come from the
species integrifolia (rugosa).

We will not recommend the resurrection of ribbon borders in
order to justify the inclusion of bedding Calceolarias in modern flower
gardens. Clumps of them may be placed in selected positions in beds
and borders, and they may be used in window-noxes also. They are
so bright and cheerful that they merit attention for these purposes,
and if used with discretion they do not overweight the garden.

The shrubby Calceolaria would be even more popular than it is
but for the fact that it often succumbs to a disease which causes
root decay, followed by general collapse. The trouble is worst in
poor, dry soils, and when the plants have to struggle against hot,
dry weather from the moment that they are planted out. On this
account growers are learning to dissociate them from Zonals, as
regards time of planting. There never was any real reason, of
course, why the two plants should be linked together, because they
are totally dissimilar in every way. It was the unfortunate ribbon
border that brought them together, and go: them associated in
people's mind as inseparable companions, that must be treated
exactly alike in every respect. Young Calceolarias are much more
hardy than young Zonals, and consequently they may be planted
out a month earlier, without much risk of injury from frost. They
are certainly better out of doors than under glass after the end of
April, because they keep hardier and sturdier. Moreover, when
planted early they have a chance of getting well rooted before the
hot weather comes on.

TENDER BEDDING PLANTS 331

Calceolarias should have a better and moister soil than Zonals.

The ground ought to be dug deeply, and thoroughly broken up,

to assist it in holding moisture in dry

weather. Regular hoeing should be

practised, in order to keep the surface

loose and crumbly, for this conserves

moisture. The plants may be set a

foot apart. They will soon begin to

flower, and will retain their beauty all

the summer. An occasional soaking

with water or liquid manure will do

good.

Although we recommend earlier

planting than in the case of Zonals,

we recommend later propagation. If

the cuttings are struck in August, the plants are liable to make

growth the same season, and that is not desirable. When the cut-
tings are inserted in October and kept cool
throughout the winter, they will remain
alive, but will not start growing until
spring. The best wood for cuttings is
short, sturdy, flowerless side-shoots, which
may be taken off beneath a joint, de-
prived of the lower leaves, and inserted
firmly in a frame. The soil ought to be
of a very sandy nature, and should be
moist. The cuttings must be inserted

PROPAGATING BEDDING CALCEOLARIAS

A shows how to prepare the cutting. The
stem and two basal leaves must be cut off
as shown by the dark lines. B shows how
to insert the cuttings in sandy soil in a low
frame.

PINCHING BEDDING CALCEOLARIAS
A shows point of plant to be pinched

hows point of plant to be pinched _.. , r i .. i i •

off; B.B.B show side-shoots grow- firmly just clear of each other, and given

ing as a result.

a light watering overhead. The frame
should be kept quite close and shaded for the first week, but
afterwards air may be given in fine weather. A thick mat or
some other warm covering should be placed over the glass in very
cold weather, but a slight frost will not hurt the cuttings.

332 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

They will commence to grow in spring, and the first young
shoots may be stopped with finger and thumb in order to make
the plants bushy. Thus treated they will be nice stuff for planting
towards the end of April, and will bloom freely, while continued
flowering may be maintained by removing the old trusses as they
decay.

The following are good varieties of bedding Calceolarias : —

Bijou. — Dark red.

Games s Yellow. — One of the most popular for bedding.

Golden Gem. — Bright yellow, excellent in every way.

Golden Glory. — Yellow, large, and very free, a splendid sort,
which will be largely grown when it is abundant enough to be
cheap.

Prince of Orange. — Brownish orange.

Sultan. — Purple.

In addition to the above a species named amplexicaulis is
sometimes offered in the florists' catalogues. It is larger than the
majority of the bedding Calceolarias, growing eighteen inches
high. The colour is lemon yellow. Burbidgei, which is sometimes
included in offers of summer bedding plants, is a large, loose-
growing hybrid with yellow flowers of great size. It is a splendid
Calceolaria, but is more suitable for winter flowering in a warm
greenhouse than for summer bedding.

LOBELIAS

The blue Lobelia completes the "ribbon border" triumvirate.
It is a lowly plant, and as a consequence it was used at the front
of the border. Growing only a few inches high, of dense habit,
and blooming so profusely as to cover itself with flowers, it ful-
filled its allotted part admirably.

The ribbon border is no longer a feature of good flower
gardens, but the Lobelia, like the " Geranium " and Calceolaria, is

A STOCK PLANT OP LOBKLIA

TENDER BEDDING PLANTS 333

still used. Gardeners find it useful for putting round the edges

of beds, and they employ it for window-boxes also.

Seedsmen sold, and still sell, seed of bedding Lobelias, but

flower gardeners who find a variety which

they like generally propagate it by means of

cuttings, as they can thus keep it quite true,

both in habit and colour.

Mid-May is a good time for planting.

The Lobelia will be in bloom then, probably,

but that is no bar to planting. The plants

form a mass of fibrous roots, and if the soil

is moistened and pressed firmly round them

they can be shifted at any time. They are

best planted in tufts about two inches thick, the clumps about

three inches apart; they will then fill out and make a continuous

line of colour. They will not spread, how-
ever, in a poor, dry soil. The ground
should be moist and fertile. Given good
land, the plants will remain in bloom until
autumn. At that season they may be
cropped in, lifted, and potted, or packed
closely together in boxes, with the object of
wintering them on a greenhouse shelf.

They will not make much progress in

CUTTINGS OF LOBELIA *

A shows a bad cutting, it is weakly early winter, but if the house is heated
rsttn7cut7nI^^hBou!d°Ls they will begin to grow before the close of

moved-

the y°ung shoots can be taken

off as cuttings when a couple of inches long,
and struck in sandy soil. As soon as they are fairly rooted their
tops can be removed and struck in turn. Thus from a few old
"stock" plants a nice lot of young ones is quickly provided.

The following are good varieties of dwarf Lobelia: —

Swanley Blue. — One of the best blues.

334 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

Newport's Model.— Blue with white eye.

Miss Hope. — White.

Kathleen Mallard.— Double blue.

In these days of herbaceous plants the tall perennial Lobelias
are largely used for beds and borders, but we can hardly include
them in a chapter on tender bedders, as they are hardy. The
species cardinalis and fulgens (scarlet flowers), and syphilitica (blue),
and the numerous varieties of them, are very popular.

These pretty, dwarf plants are old favourites for bedding, and
are still used a good deal. They are generally classed as half-

hardy annuals, and as such are raised
from seed every year ; but varieties of
special merit may be perpetuated by
means of cuttings, so long as they are
not allowed to ripen seeds.

If the plants have to be raised from
seed in the first place, owing to the
absence of plants from which to take
cuttings, the seed may be sown in

shallow boXCS of light Soil in Spring,

d th seedlingS pricked off a few
or

inches apart in other boxes when they
begin to get crowded. This will result in dwarf, sturdy plants,
which will soon show bloom, and which will be quite ready for
planting out by mid-May. They enjoy a well-dug, moist, fertile
soil, and in such a medium will remain in bloom during the
whole of the summer.

To perpetuate a variety by means of cuttings, pinch off the
flower heads as they fade, and insert growing shoots in sandy
soil, preferably over bottom heat, but certainly in a heated house.

CUTTINGS OF AGERATUM

A shows a good cutting prepared for in-
sertion ; B, coarse soil and drainage in

the pot ;c, fine soil and sand.

TENDER BEDDING PLANTS 335

They may have cool treatment as soon as they are rooted, as
nothing is gained by pushing them on through the winter. If
preferred, old stock plants may be kept in a cool house during
the winter, and cuttings from them struck on a hotbed or in a
propagator in spring:

The following are good varieties : —

Blue Perfection.

Compactum nanum album. — White.

Imperial Dwarf — Blue.

ALTERNANTHERAS

When carpet bedding was in vogue the Alternantheras were
very popular — indeed, they were practically indispensable to those
who indulged in garden mosaics, owing to their neat, dwarf growth
and to the beautiful colouring of their leaves. And carpet bedding
was very much in vogue in the latter half of the nineteenth cen-
tury. One read of carpet beds in many important gardens, and
saw them in the public parks. They have died out of the former
entirely, but one stiil comes upon isolated examples in the smaller
provincial parks.

In the heyday of its popularity carpet bedding was never prac-
tised by the majority of amateur gardeners, and there were good
practical reasons for this. In the first place, there was the prepara-
tion of the designs — a tedious and laborious business, of very little
value as mental training. One could imagine a student of geo-
metrical drawing finding interest in such a task, but no one else.
Then there was the preparation of the requisite plants, and that
was no light task, since in an elaborate design several kinds of
a particular character had to be chosen, mostly such as required
glass accommodation. Then there was the slow process of plant-
ing, which had to be done with as much accuracy as the laying
down of a tiled floor. Finally, there was the periodical cropping

336 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

and trimming, without which the design would have speedily been
lost through the intermingling of the various plants. It will be
clear that, in proportion to its area, a carpet bed was one of the
most expensive forms of gardening.

With respect to its effect, one cannot deny that a well-designed,
well-kept bed possessed a certain interest, and that it was at least
calculated to stimulate curiosity; but it was entirely unnatural,
and on that account alone it is satisfactory to know that it is
moribund.

With the decline of carpet bedding there was a decline in the cul-
tivation of such plants as the Alternantheras, which are of little use
in mixed borders, or for ordinary bedding. The method of culture
was to pot stock plants in autumn the same as Lobelias, and keep
them in a warm house throughout the winter, then to take cuttings
and insert them in sandy soil over bottom heat, potting singly in
due course, and planting out in early summer. The two species
which, with their varieties, were most used were amabilis and
paronychioides. A popular variety of the former was amoena, and
two varieties of the other that were largely employed were major
and aurea.

IRESINES

These plants share with Alternantheras a decline due to the fall
of carpet bedding. Larger in growth (although dwarf) and less
tender than the latter, they are still worthy of attention where
coloured foliage is required. They are not very particular as to
soil, or susceptible to variable weather conditions. They may be
raised from cuttings inserted in sandy soil, preferably over bottom
heat, in autumn or spring, and planted towards the end of May.
Herbstii (maroon) and Lindeni (blood-red) are the two species
grown, and there are several varieties of them, differing somewhat
in the colour of the leaves.

TENDER BEDDING PLANTS

337

GAZANIAS

Gazania splendens is a brilliant orange-coloured flower, growing
from a foot to eighteen inches high, and is sometimes used for
bedding. There is a yellow variety of it, and one with variegated
leaves. The plants love sunshine, and do best in loamy soil.
They can be propagated by taking the side-shoots as cuttings
and inserting them in sandy soil in a frame, which should be
kept close.

LANTANAS

These charming plants are very useful to bedders, and any
amateur can grow them with ease. In foliage they resemble
Heliotrope, and the flowers are borne in
close heads. The colours are brilliant and
varied. Inasmuch as the plants bloom
freely and continuously, and will do in
ordinary soil, they are undeniably useful.
They have the defect of a straggly habit
of growth, but this can be corrected by
pinching in the early stages.

The Lantanas are useful for window- A shows stem of old Plant ; B- a side-

shoot suitable for a cutting ; C

boxes, tubs, and large vases, as well as sh°w« the latter severed with a

heel attached.

for beds.

They are propagated by taking cuttings of flowerless side
growths late in summer, and inserting them in sandy soil in a
warm frame kept close, or under a handlight. The resulting plants
can be potted separately in March, and stopped when the shoots
are about four inches long. Some prefer to preserve the old
plants, shorten them and pot them in autumn, then prune them
hard in spring like Fuchsias, and give them heat to start the
back buds.

CUTTINGS OF LANTANA

338 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

The following are good varieties : —

Chelsea Gem. — Crimson and pale yellow.

Delicata. — Pink with white eye.

Drap d"or. — Orange.

La Neige. — White.

Magenta King. — Purplish scarlet.

Ne Plus Ultra. — Rose.

Any of the above may be chosen of which the colour is liked.

VERBENAS

We have already referred to the Verbena as a plant which may
be raised from seed early in the year and treated as an Annual.
Probably most growers deal with it in this way at the present
time. The day of the Verbena as a florist's flower, to be grown
through the winter and propagated by cuttings from year to year,
is past. The florists of the mid-Victorian epoch esteemed it highly,
but it gradually declined in favour with amateurs.

It must be acknowledged, however, that Verbenas make charm-
ing beds. When they are once established they grow rapidly,
and flower profusely over a long period. The colours are bright,
and the flowers are scented. Having these merits, Verbenas are
certain of a considerable measure of popularity, especially when
it is realised how easily they are grown from seed, and that
one or two of the best of the modern varieties come quite true
from seed.

The seed may be sown in boxes of light, sandy soil, kept moist,
in January, the seedlings pricked off three inches apart when they
begin to get crowded, and planted out from the boxes about mid-
May. If the soil is rich they should be placed eighteen inches
apart, and the growths pegged down as they extend. By adopting
this plan the soil is quickly covered. Mixed seed of a good strain
will give a nice selection of colours, but there are a few particularly

TENDER BEDDING PLANTS 339

desirable sorts which ought to be procured and grown separately.
Among them are : —

Ellen Willmott. — Pink with white eye, a lovely Verbena, suit-
able either for pot or garden culture.

Venosa. — Mauve, an old species of very distinct colour, much
in demand for borders.

Warley. — Brilliant red, of upright habit, better suited for pot
than for garden culture.

Lustrous. — Scarlet with white eye, a vigorous grower and excel-
lent for beds.

Lovely Blue. — Pale blue, very sweet, a free grower.

Boule de Neige. — White, very sweet, a good bedder.

In the case of any variety of which seed is not procurable,
cuttings may be taken, and struck in sandy soil in a close case
or frame. Or old plants may be wintered and cuttings struck in
spring.

TROPAEOLUMS

The annual Tropaeolums of the half-hardy class, mostly varieties
of Lobbianum, are not very largely planted in beds, owing to the
fact that there is such a magnificent series of hardy varieties avail-
able. These are generally offered by seedsmen under the popular
name of Nasturtiums, and we have referred to them under Hardy
Annuals. The half-hardy trailers are sometimes trained over stumps
in beds or borders, but more often on porches and arches, or planted
to droop from window-boxes.

TUBEROUS BEGONIAS

These splendid flowers have been dealt with in a previous
section. In addition to their value for beds, they are in great
demand for the decoration of greenhouses and conservatories. As
bedders they have had a long drawn battle for supremacy with

340 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

Zonal " Geraniums," and have emerged victorious. We cannot but
think that they are really superior to the old favourite, except in
poor, dry soil, or in a very dry season. There can be no doubt
of their superiority in rich, moist soils. The flowers are larger
and the colours softer. They have the pull, too, in a wet season.
The flowers of Zonals are not constructed to stand wet, and in
a damp, cold season they have a very bedraggled appearance, while
the plants run to leaf.

We warmly urge the claims of Tuberous Begonias as bedding
plants. We have used them extensively, and with conspicuous
success. Nothing in the way of dwarf plants can well be more
beautiful than well-grown Begonias. The foliage is handsome,
although it does not possess the rich and varied markings of the
finest Zonals. The flowers are glorious. In a good strain one
gets single blooms as large as saucers, and double ones that rival
Hollyhocks and Camellias. The form is very beautiful, while the
colours are as lovely as they are varied. Pure, snow-white, lemon
and deep yellow, blush, soft pink and dainty rose, salmon, orange
and brilliant scarlet — all these are present.

Begonias do not come into bloom quite so quickly as Zonals,
because they take longer to get established ; but there is no reason
why they should be half the summer struggling along towards
flowering, as they often are. More care in developing the plants,
and more thoroughness in preparing the soil, remedy this common
trouble. Early flowering is desirable, because it need not militate
in any way against late blooming. If the plants are healthy and
growing they will keep on flowering throughout the summer, and
as long in autumn as the frost will keep away.

Amateurs who want to have a thoroughly successful bed of
Tuberous Begonias ought to procure tubers in early March, bury
them in a box of moist cocoa-nut fibre refuse or leaf-mould, and
put them in a warm frame or house. The heat and moisture will
start them into growth quickly. They may be allowed to remain

TENDER BEDDING PLANTS 341

in the boxes as the growth extends, because potting them entails
time, soil, and pots, without any very striking superiority in vigour.
If the material is kept moist, roots will push into it freely. Plants
in frames are pretty certain to keep dwarf and sturdy, but they
might get drawn in a house unless care was taken to keep them
near the glass. This point is of importance, as long, scraggy
plants are very poor material for beds — or anything else either,
for the matter of that. Air should be given in fine weather.

Between, say, mid-March and the end of May the plants will
have plenty of time to get strong. Meantime, as soon as the
spring plants are cleared away the soil ought to be prepared. It
should be dug deeply — in fact, the subsoil ought to be broken up,
so that a depth of a foot and a half is secured. Well decayed yard
manure, leaf-mould, and wood ashes are all suitable material to
add. If the soil is naturally retentive and moist — clay, for instance
— it will be all the better for the plants ; but light soil can be made
to give good results with liberal treatment.

If the plants are six to eight inches high at the end of May,
with a good mat of fibres, they will be in perfect condition for
planting. The roots should not be shaken clear of the fibre when
they are removed from the box ; on the contrary, as much as clings
to them must be allowed to remain. We say this, not because
we believe that the fibre will be particularly nourishing to the
plants when they are put in the beds, but because we regard it
as important to avoid any risk of the roots getting dry. The
plants may be put eighteen inches apart in heavy, rich, moist
soil, but somewhat closer in lighter, drier ground. They may be
settled in with a good watering, and if the weather should keep
dry after planting it will be well to give further waterings until
they have got nicely into growth. The grower must pay particular
attention to the plants for the first two or three weeks, as it is
very desirable to start them off quickly and keep them moving.
Regular hoeing will suffice to maintain steady progress in retentive

342 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

soil, but in light ground it may be advisable to give a thick mulch
of cocoa-nut fibre refuse after thoroughly soaking the soil. If the
plants can be kept steadily at work until the foliage meets on the
bed, all fear of failure may be considered at an end. Flowers will
come, and will keep on coming — in fact, there will be a steady
stream of lovely blossoms. But the culminating display will be
in the cool days of September, and (if frost permits) early October.
The plants will be laden with brilliant blossoms, and the bed will
be one of the sights of the garden. Fading flowers should be
picked off regularly throughout the season.

The problem of wintering the plants is a much simpler one than
in the case of Geraniums, as they will lose their leaves and stems
by a process of natural decay. The tubers can be lifted, dried, and
stored in any dry, frost-proof place until spring.

We do not think that it is necessary to go to the expense of
buying named varieties of Begonias for beds ; mixed tubers will
do; but, if desired, tubers can be bought in separate, distinct
colours, such as white, cream, blush, pink, rose, yellow, salmon,
buff, scarlet, crimson, and Picotee edged.

CANNAS

The Canna is a valuable bedding plant, and thrives under
practically the same treatment as Dahlias. The old-time Cannas
were tall, vigorous plants, and were grown at least as much for
their leaves as their flowers, being used in what was called sub-
tropical gardening. The modern varieties are in the main much
dwarfer, and with a reduction of leaf and stem growth there have
come larger heads of bloom, together with increased diversity of
colour.

The newer dwarf Cannas, with their large spikes of brilliant
flowers, unquestionably make very fine beds. The foliage is broad
and handsome. In some varieties it is plain green, in others brown,

TENDER BEDDING PLANTS 343

crimson, or chocolate. The colours include yellow, orange, rose,
crimson, and scarlet, while many varieties have spotted flowers.

There are two great divisions of modern Cannas, namely, the
Gladiolus-flowered and the Orchid-flowered. The former is the
more important, as it embraces a larger number of beautiful
varieties, with long spikes of large flowers; but there are some
very fine sorts in the other class.

Both sections need the same cultural treatment, and the main
item is the provision of deep, rich soil. Like the Dahlia and the
tuberous Begonia, the Canna loves moisture and abundance of
good fare. The soil should be prepared
as thoroughly as for Begonias.

The amateur may begin by buying
dormant roots or young growing plants in
spring. The root-stocks start into growth
readily in a warm house or frame. They
may be potted, or plunged in moist cocoa-
nut fibre refuse or leaf-mould similarly to

BegOniaS ; potting is practised as a rule. CANNA— ROOT-STOCK AND GROWING

... CROWN

Any piece of root-stock with some root A, root-stock; B, root-stock in son ;
fibres and a growing crown will make a c> growing crown>

plant if potted. Growth will start from latent buds on the crown.
With water as required, and moderate warmth, the plants will
progress rapidly, and they may be planted two feet apart in the
beds in May. They should be watered until they are growing
freely; afterwards they will look after themselves in heavy soil,
but in light soil occasional soakings of water, or liquid manure,
may be required throughout the summer.

The growth will die away in autumn, when the roots may be
lifted and stored for the winter. They should be kept in a frost-
proof place, and free from drip.

Cannas may be raised from seed if required. The common
name of " Indian Shot," which is applied to the Canna, is derived

344 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

from the hardness of the seed, which ought to be soaked in very hot
water for half-an-hour before sowing, or germination may be very
slow. The pots should be stood on a hot-bed or in a propagator.
If the seeds are sown at midwinter, and the plants are potted
and repotted as required, they will make good stuff by autumn,
but they may not be ready for bedding the first year. They may
be kept in pots for conservatory or greenhouse decoration — a
purpose which they will serve admirably.

It is hardly necessary to go to the expense of named varieties
for beds, but here are the names of half-a-dozen good Gladiolus-
flowered varieties : —

Ami J. Chretien. — Chestnut.

Aurore. — Red.

Comte de Bouchaud. — Yellow, red spots.

Konigin Charlotte. — Crimson, yellow
edge.

Kaiser Wilhelm II. — Scarlet.

Mdne'lik. — Crimson.

A, old plant ; B, offset which must be
removed for propagating purposes
at the dark curved line.

ECHEVEUIAS (COTYLEDONS)

ECHEVERIAS

In the old carpet bedding days Eche-
verias (now called Cotyledons by botanists)
were more important plants than they are now. They are very
succulent, growing in the form of rosettes of thick, fleshy leaves,
from which spring the long, slender flower-stems. The carpet
bedders did not grow Echeverias for the flowers, but for the
foliage. They used the plants in cones, shields, circles, and
diamonds. A small mound would be raised, studded all over with
Echeverias planted closely together, and surmounted by a graceful
foliage plant, such as a Dracaena. The varieties metallica and
secunda glauca were the most popular. The former is perhaps the
best of all. It is a variety of Gibbiflora — itself well worthy of

YUCCAS
By Beatrice Parsons

TENDER BEDDING PLANTS 345

cultivation as a pot plant for the greenhouse, as it produces
brilliant red and yellow flowers in July.

The Echeverias thrive in ordinary garden soil, but they do not
care for heavy, moist ground. They are readily increased by offsets
or by leaves, put in pots in a warm house in autumn.

FUCHSIAS

The hardier of the Fuchsias, such as Corallina and Riccartoni,
are sometimes introduced into beds and flower borders, but one
can hardly speak of them as bedding
plants in the ordinary sense. When they
are used in the garden they are generally
planted permanently, and cut to the ground
every autumn. In cold districts it is well
to cover the root-stocks with litter in
November. The garden Fuchsias are par-
ticularly graceful plants.

HELIOTROPE

ECHRVBRIAS — PROPAGATION

There is no reason why lovers of the A, leaf inserted in sandy soil; B, »

stone placed on the heel of the

fragrant " Cherry Pie " should not introduce leaf to keep u firm; c, offset in-

. serted in sandy soil.

it into their flower-beds, as well as grow

it for adorning and perfuming the conservatory. The colours are
not varied, it is true, but there are several shades of blue, and
one or two in which rosy tints prevail. There are also white, or
nearly white varieties. The richer hues, such as purplish blue
and violet, will be found the most effective in beds.

Heliotropes are tender plants, and ought not to be put into the
garden before the end of May. While they are not really par-
ticular as to soil, they do not grow to perfection in a close, reten-
tive medium. On this account the soil ought to be thoroughly

(2,299)

23

346 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

broken up, and if it is of a stiff, holding character it will be
well to lighten and disintegrate it with burnt refuse, leaf-mould,
road sweepings, and thoroughly decayed manure. The plants will
require pegging down as they grow, like Verbenas, and to allow
room for this they should be planted eighteen inches apart.

Propagation is generally effected by means of cuttings, which
should consist of about four inches of the young flowerless shoots,
taken off in September, and struck in sandy soil on a hotbed or

in a propagator. When the cuttings
are rooted they should be stood on
a shelf in a heated house. They will
not make much growth through the
winter, but will go ahead in spring,
and more cuttings can then be taken
from the young plants. When rooted
they can be put singly in small pots,
and grown therein until the time comes
for planting them in the garden.

The following are beautiful varieties

HELIOTROPE CUTTINGS

A, main stem of a plant; B, a side-shoot
suitable for a cutting; C, the cutting
prepared for insertion.

. - Deep violet blue,

*

leaves.

Frau Bertha Schafer. — Heliotrope colour.
Lord Roberts. — Violet.

Miss Nightingale. — Deep blue, dark leaves.
Swanley Giant. — Very large rosy heads.
White Lady. — Very pale flowers, green leaves.

MIMULUSES (MONKEY FLOWERS)

To mention that the well-known Musk is a Mimulus is to win
sympathy for the plant immediately. The bedding Mimuluses are
not fragrant, but they have large, brilliantly coloured flowers, in

TENDER BEDDING PLANTS 347

most cases spotted. They bloom profusely, and remain in beauty
a long time.

The Mimuluses have a special value in the fact that they will
thrive in shady places. They love coolness and moisture. If seed
is sown on a gentle hotbed, or in a warm greenhouse, in late
winter, the plants ought to be ready for the beds by the end of
May. All seedsmen sell good strains of spotted Mimuluses.

PETUNIAS

These pretty flowers were referred to in a previous section.
They are charming for beds, and they have an advantage over
many plants in that they will thrive in a comparatively poor, dry
soil. This should secure for them the special attention of flower
gardeners who have to secure effects on thin, chalky, or gravelly
soils. So long as strong plants are prepared, and watered until
they are established, good results may be expected.

The London park gardeners make considerable use of Petunias,
and one sometimes sees them even in the Embankment Gardens,
where the air is far from pure. If they will thrive here — and
they certainly do — no country amateur ought to be afraid of
trying them.

The simplest way of raising a supply of Petunias is to sow
seed in late winter, and set the box on a hotbed, or on a shelf
in a warm house. If the seedlings are thinned as required, and
pricked off a few inches apart in due course, they will make nice
stuff for planting out by the end of May. They should be kept
sturdy by growing them near the glass and giving abundance of
air in favourable weather.

SALVIAS

Salvias are brilliant flowers, and are largely used for pot culture,
especially for winter blooming. We do not often see them used

348 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

as bedding plants in England, but Irish gardeners employ them
most effectively. In the moist, mild climate of many parts of the
Emerald Isle they do splendidly in the open air, and make glorious
breaks of colour. Patens, with its flowers of brilliant blue, is
particularly fine as a bedding plant. There is a white variety of
it. The well-known scarlet Salvia, splendens, is almost exclusively
used as a winter bloomer under glass. If grown out of doors,
Salvia patens should have a deep, friable, moist soil.

FLOWERS FOR SUBURBAN GARDENS

MANY of the flowers which have been dealt with in previous
chapters are suitable for suburban gardens ; nevertheless, in many
respects gardening near towns is conducted under conditions which
differ somewhat from those existing in the country, and we deem
it well to give special consideration to it. In so doing, we will
not only deal with the various plants under the particular con-
ditions which prevail in the suburbs, but devote a little attention
to the laying out and equipment of small gardens.

All students of sociology have observed the great outburst of
revolt against the sordid and cramping influences of town life.
There is a simultaneous inflow and outflow. Labourers are leaving
the country for the towns, partly as a result of the higher wages
procurable in the latter, partly because they have become unsettled
by a system of elementary education which has taught them just
sufficient to make them discontented with the simple round of
rural life, but not enough to give them well-balanced minds.

These men have brought their love of gardening with them,
and endeavoured to practise it. They have not always succeeded,
owing to the inability to get suitable ground, but in many cases
they have done well enough to set an example to others, who
have imitated them. We know of many cases in which skilful
cottage gardeners from the country have exercised a considerable
influence upon the townsmen among whom circumstances have
placed them. Some of these were not in the lowest scale of labour.
They were artisans, small tradesmen, and clerks. Practising garden-
ing, and learning to love it, they were filled with a strong desire
to get more ground, and as a result went "further out."

349

350 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

When a townsman gets the gardening fever, the distance to
which he transfers himself from the deadly town centre is regu-
lated by his circumstances. If he has an independence, however
small, he goes into the country. This causes an interchange which
maintains a steady occupancy of cottages. In view of what is
called the "rural exodus," it might be expected that half the
cottages up and down the countryside are empty. The truth is
that it is difficult to get one. But the townsman does not always
get as far as the country proper, owing to the exigencies of his
daily occupation. He may have to spend five and a half days a
week in a town, earning a salary that does not permit of a long
railway journey. Hence he lives in the town suburbs, or in a
smaller town not far away that gives, horticulturally speaking,
suburban conditions.

We may expect the garden movement to go on. It will break
out in Suburban Garden Associations and in Garden Cities. It
will mean in either case gardening by men who are not trained
horticulturists, and who can only give two or three hours of the
day to their hobby, except on Saturdays, when they will have the
afternoon as well as the evening. Further, it will mean gardening
among houses. The farther we get from the town centre, the
larger we may expect to find the garden, and the purer we may
expect the air to be ; but the conditions of labour will remain the
same — it will be unskilled, and it will be restricted to certain
leisure hours.

The really considerable degree of success which has been
achieved by amateur gardeners under such conditions is a sufficient
proof of the ready way in which nature responds to any fairly well
directed effort to grow plants, and the obviously beneficial effects
of the work, not only in beautifying one particular home, but in
improving the health, spirits, and character of the householder, are
in the highest degree encouraging. Two things are quite clear:
the first, that it is not necessary for a man to undergo a training

FLOWERS FOR SUBURBAN GARDENS 351

in gardening, or to have a great deal of spare time, in order to
make a small garden attractive; the second, that the improvement
of ground has an admirable moral effect.

The most common cause of failure in suburban gardening is
the cramming in of many kinds of plants, irrespective of their
habit and their suitability for the conditions under which they
have to grow. Suburban gardens might be divided into three
classes : those that do not exceed three to six square rods in area
and are worked entirely by the owner; those which run to ten
or twelve rods and are worked by the owner with the help of a
jobbing gardener ; and those which extend to half an acre and are
mostly controlled by hired labour. The first of these three classes
is perhaps the largest. Thousands of people have such gardens,
and they sometimes make the mistake of trying to grow flowers,
fruit, and vegetables together.

In view of the fact that constant supplies of vegetables are
brought to the doors of suburbanists daily, we do not think that
it is wise to give up the precious space of a very small suburban
garden to them. The most that we should do would be to grow
a row or two of Peas and Beans, because it is of particular im-
portance to have these quite fresh and unmixed, and the green-
grocer's supplies do not always fulfil these conditions. We should
certainly not attempt to grow Potatoes, particularly if our soil was
heavy, because we should expect to be able to buy them of better
flavour, and quite as cheaply as we could grow them ourselves.
We should not grow Beetroot, Carrots, and Parsnips, because
these roots can be bought quite fresh. And least of all should
we grow any kind of greens, because the sulphuretted hydrogen
that gathers about them in wet weather is very disagreeable.
Celery is an admitted delicacy, but the objection to it from the
suburban gardener's point of view is that it takes up more room
and entails more labour than is justified by results. And good,
fresh Celery is always procurable in its season.

352 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

We yield to none in our belief in the value of vegetables, and
would have them grown wherever the conditions are favourable;
but we have to take a common-sense view of this as of other
matters, and we are firmly of opinion that a small suburban wall-
enclosed garden is not the place for general vegetables. Of
course, the utilisation of waste ground in our towns for allot-

ments is a different matter. Vege-
tables of various kinds should be
grown on them.

So far as fruit is concerned, it
is equally open to doubt whether it
is worth the while of suburbanists
with very small gardens to attempt
it. The most that should be done
is to try a few cordon trees on the
party fence. Larger trees, grown in
the open, will take up more room
than can be spared, and birds are
likely to attack the buds.

Planning.— -It will DC gathered that

A, dwelling-house; B, main entrance; c, c, c, we believe in restricting small suburban

gardens to ornamental plants, with
which may be included grass. Vege-
tables and fruit may, however, be

planted in larger ones, especially if they are big enough to be
divided into two or more sections. There is room for the display
of a considerable amount of taste and ingenuity in laying out small
plots. The beginner should not go along the line of least resistance,
which generally leads to a border round the sides, a grass plot in
the middle, and nothing more. We like the border, and we like
the grass plot, but we think that in most cases a little more can
be done. Perhaps the garden is a rectangle, a little longer than
it is broad, at the back of a row of terrace houses, with a low

N^StfttS ....^rfiii*-^ ' ... . V

A LARGE SUBURBAN GARDEN

FLOWERS FOR SUBURBAN GARDENS 353

party wall or fence on each side. We may first of all endeavour
to secure greater height for our creeping plants, and greater privacy
for ourselves, by attaching a piece of painted or creosoted wooden
trellis, about two feet high, to the wall. A foot-deep band of
galvanised wire attached to the trellis, but not so securely as
to be quite firm, will serve to discourage the invasion of cats.
Trellis and wire together will cost very little. Then, in spite of
the smallness of the garden, we may plant a few trees. It is
to be feared that we cannot soar to
the finest species, and must be con-
tent with Lombardy Poplars, except
in one or two selected positions, of
which more later. The Poplars may
be decapitated about eight feet above
the ground, and they will then break
out from the lower part, so that,
planted six feet apart, they will meet
and give still greater privacy.

A walk at one side only of the
garden will suffice, and it will, of
course, follow the line of the border.
If six inches of brickbats and clinkers
are first rammed in, and then sur-
faced with two inches of gravel, the walk will do admirably. It
should be a little higher at the centre than the sides, so that rain
will run off. The border ought to be four feet wide, and the path
three feet ; then the width can be completed with a grass plot and
another four-feet border.

We will not carry borders, paths, and grass plots uninterruptedly
to the other end of the garden, but stop them a few feet away, in
order to form a garden " cosy corner." This shall be screened by
a trellis five or six feet high, with a narrow border at its foot in
which to put plants for covering the trellis. The latter shall not

S^^afi^*S^(^S

ANOTHER SUBURBAN GARDEN

flower-beds ; D, standard Roses ; E, clumps
of shrubs ; F, herbaceous borders ; G, trades-
men's entrance.

354 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

go completely across the garden, for that would deprive us of
an entrance to the "cosy corner," but there shall be an opening
the width of the path, and here an arch shall be set. In one
angle of the enclosure thus formed we will set a summer-house,
with shrubs and one or two selected trees, such as Almonds or
Laburnums, on each side of it. This will develop into a shady
and secluded spot, delightful on the evenings of hot days — a place
to read, write, and muse in after a trying day in a stuffy office, and

after the plants have been looked
after. It adds greatly to the attrac-
tions of a suburban home to have
some such quiet place as this. A
few seeds of Mignonette and Night-
scented Stock should be sprinkled in
patches near the summer-house, as the
perfume of these deliciously scented
flowers will be highly agreeable on
summer days and nights.

If there is to be a greenhouse,
it may stand at the opposite side of
the enclosure to the summer-house.
In the absence of a greenhouse, per-
haps a small rockery can be formed.
The occupier of a suburban house often puts his greenhouse in
the angle of the abutment (formed of kitchen, outdoor offices, and
bedroom above) which forms such a common feature of rows of
terrace houses. His principal object in doing this is no doubt to be
able to enter it direct from the dwelling. There is some advantage
in this. It is admittedly pleasant to be able to step out of a dwelling-
room into a well-furnished greenhouse or conservatory. But the posi-
tion is not generally a good one for plants. The house is usually
shaded for the greater part of the day ; and it catches falls of snow
from the roof in winter, often with disastrous results to the glass.

A THIRD SUBURBAN GARDEN

A, dwelling-house ; B, main entrance ; C, con-
servatory ; D, D, flower-beds ; E, E, Rose
beds ; F, rockeries ; N, north.

FLOWERS FOR SUBURBAN GARDENS 355

The form of greenhouse in such a position will be a lean-to,
but we prefer a span-roof in the open. If the ends run north
and south, the sides will get the sun for the greater part of the
day, and although the heat may be too great at times, necessitating
shading, the net effect will be good.

By the inclusion of a greenhouse in the suburban garden,
the amateur will be able to continue his horticultural opera-
tions for a much longer period than if he had only outdoor
plants — in fact, he will be able to keep going all the year round,
growing some of the beautiful plants described in our chapter on
Greenhouses.

In the absence of a greenhouse, the rockery will be an interest-
ing feature. A mound of soil can be formed, and studded with
large stones, which can be got from a local builder or florist.
Rock plants are delightful little gems, and so are the smaller bulbs,
such as Irises, Glory of the Snow, Dog's Tooth Violets, Snow-
drops, American Cowslips, hardy Cyclamens, Crocuses, and others
named in our Bulb chapter.

If a Rose is particularly wanted for the arch, we recommend the
glossy-leaved Dorothy Perkins. Whether it succeeds or not will
depend on the purity of the air. If there are factories near, it
may fail. No Roses care for impure air, and Dorothy Perkins is
no exception, but it is more likely to succeed than most varieties.
There is, however, a charming arch plant that nearly always succeeds
in suburban gardens, and it is the small, white-flowered Clematis
montana. Care should be taken to deepen the soil thoroughly,
and to manure it well, for whatever climber is planted. A thorough
drenching of water or liquid manure twice a week in hot weather
will be a great help to the plant.

As regards shrubs for the summer-house corner, we advise the
amateur to be content with some everyday, useful thing, such as
the Aucuba. We are aware that it is a common shrub, and we
can well understand country amateurs with large gardens planting

356 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

something more interesting; but the particular circumstances have
to be considered. Aucubas do not object to conditions that would
be unfavourable to most shrubs.

Grass Plots. — It will have been noted that we suggested grass
between the path on one side of the garden and the border on
the other. We favour a moderate amount of turf in a suburban
garden for three reasons: (i) It looks cool and refreshing in hot
weather ; (2) it makes a good foil for the flowers in the border ;
(3) it affords space for free movements. We know of many
suburbanists who make a delightful lounge of their grass plots.
There are, of course, certain disadvantages. One is that the
space available for flowers is curtailed, and another that mowing
and rolling are necessitated. Some amateur gardeners are such
determined flower-lovers that they will not give up a yard of
precious space to grass. It is a matter of taste.

Assuming that a grass plot is to be formed, we may say that
the simplest way is to get an estimate for laying turves from a
local florist. The total cost, including labour, ought not to exceed
;£i per square rod, less for a quantity ; but something will depend
upon the state of the ground when its preparation is entered upon.
Many amateurs will prefer, however, to do the whole of the garden-
ing work themselves. If they want turves they should get into
touch with a builder who is about to break up pasture-land for
building. If there is no such opening (and in many districts it is
impossible to get turf except from such a distance as makes the
freight costly), seed must be turned to. It is a question whether
it is not best in any case to use seeds. It would hardly be
thought that so simple a plant as grass would be susceptible to
the influences of impure air, but it certainly is, and we have
known of cases in which turf transferred from country to town
gardens has refused to grow, apparently feeling the change too
severely to be able to keep healthy. On the other hand, grass
from seed came, and remained, healthy in the same garden, showing

357

no signs of discomfort. It is naturalised and acclimatised, so to say,
from the first.

The suburbanist who sets out to make a grass plot should fix
two things in his mind as absolutely essential to success: the
first is a level, fine bed of soil ; the second, pure seed of a specially
prepared mixture. He should dig the ground over in winter, and
throw the soil into lumps, letting it lie thus for a few weeks;
then, in favourable weather towards
the end of March or in the early
part of April, it will crumble down
beautifully into fine particles, and
can be raked perfectly smooth and
level. It should be made firm during
the levelling process, as if loose it
may sink in parts later on, thus
giving an uneven sward.

Turning to the seed, it is advis-
able to buy it from one of the large
seedsmen who make a speciality of
lawn grasses. The names of such
firms will be quite familiar as ex-
hibitors at the great popular exhibi-
tions. It has to be remembered that
there are many different kinds of grasses, although amateurs often
speak as though grass were always the same. Some kinds are
much stronger than others. It is partly because country turf is
largely composed of fine varieties that it does not thrive near
towns. If the soil and the district are described when the order
is sent, and a mixture suitable for somewhat adverse conditions is
asked for, the experience of the big seedsman, who is daily pre-
paring mixtures for different purposes, will enable him to provide
a satisfactory blend. One pound of seed per square rod will be
ample. It is well to choose a still day in the first half of April

A LAWN FROM SBID

A, ground levelled ; B, straight-edge and spirit
level resting on pegs ; C, space to be filled
up ; D, D, a portion of plot duly sown ; E,
a portion not sown. For convenience of
sowing, the plot is marked out in 3 ft. strips.

358 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

for sowing, but September is also a suitable month. Sowing
should be avoided in windy weather, because the seed cannot be
evenly spread, but is blown into heaps in places, while others
go bare.

If the soil is lightly raked over after the sowing the seeds
will be sufficiently covered, but it is a good plan to finish with
a rolling. If the soil is in the right state for moisture it will
not pick up on the roller. It should be neither quite dry nor
saturated with moisture.

Birds must be thought of and circumvented, or the chances of
getting a good sward will be reduced to a minimum. The seeds
will disappear, and in place of grass will spring a network of
various kinds of weeds. Covering with fish netting, or stringing
black threads a few inches apart on short sticks, will suffice for pro-
tection. Whatever is used can be removed when the grass is an
inch high, provided that it has come through evenly all over the
ground ; if not, the protection should remain on longer. As soon
as the threads have been taken away the roller should be put over
the plot again. It will crush down the young grasses, but that
will do no harm whatever, and by pressing the soil round the roots
it will encourage the emission of new fibres, from which fresh
blades of grass will spring quickly. When there is a thick mat
of grass from three to four inches high, the tops should be clipped
off, preferably with shears or scythe, as this will encourage a
further break of grass from the base. The lawn is now secure,
and regular rolling and mowing will steadily improve it. Rolling
is best done soon after rain, and is most effectual in spring, when
the ground is comparatively soft. It will not have much influence
in summer, when the ground is hard and dry. Mowing is best
done when the grass is dry or nearly so. In the case of a young
plot it is well to set the cutter rather high, so that the grass is
not sheared off quite low down. This would bare the roots, and
they might suffer in hot weather. It is not a bad plan to let the

FLOWERS FOR SUBURBAN GARDENS 359

grass fall and lie on young lawns ; it causes a somewhat brown
appearance as the cut grass dies, but on the other hand the roots
are mulched and shaded.

A neat, straight edge is a nice finish to a grass plot, and care
should be taken to prevent the encroachment of the grass on the
path and border. If any one wants to judge how rapidly it would
do so if not regularly clipped, let him observe how the turf and
weeds at the side of country roads spread towards the middle.
They often extend a couple of feet on each side in the course of
a year, and have to be cut out by the roadmen.

We see that with mowing, rolling, and edge-clipping grass takes
up as much time as a flower-bed of equal area, and an amateur
must never settle the question of grass versus beds in favour of
the former on the assumption that it will incur less labour and
expense. That is not the way to consider it at all.

Walls and Fences. — The clothing these is a matter that deserves
careful consideration. In small gardens the fence or wall area is
very valuable ; indeed, the smaller the garden the more important
it is to make use of every inch of the party divisions. We have
dealt with climbing and creeping plants in a previous chapter, and
need not cover the whole ground again. But in view of the special
circumstances, we may allude to a few plants that are useful for
clothing walls and fences.

VeitcWs yirginian Creeper. — This plant is somewhat too vigorous
for the dividing walls, and may therefore be planted to cover the
walls of the house. It will cling naturally. A good plant should
be put in during March, in deep, rich soil, so that it may have a
chance of getting well established before the hot weather comes.
Veitch's Virginian Creeper thrives in suburban gardens.

A good Variegated Ivy. — The party wall is generally made
higher between the abutments spoken of in a previous paragraph
than it is lower down the garden, and a suitable plant for covering
it is the variegated Ivy called Hedera Helix rhombea. It is more

360 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

vigorous in growth than most of the variegated sorts, and the
leaves are prettily margined. To get the utmost vigour in Ivy,
one must get the Irish, but that is green-leaved.

Jasmines. — The yellow, winter-blooming Jasmine, nudiflorum, is
a thorough suburban plant, and it is really attractive, bearing its
small yellow flowers in abundance. It is quite suitable for training
against a low fence.

Honeysuckles. — Perhaps the best of the Honeysuckles is the
variegated Japanese, which has prettily veined leaves. It is a
free grower. Flexuosa is one of the best of the Honeysuckles
that are grown principally for their flowers, and is very sweet.

Dutchman's Pipe (Aristolochia Sipho). — This quaint flower
always interests people.

Ceanothuses. — The Ceanothus is a very attractive wall shrub.
There are several species and varieties, mostly with blue flowers.
They are not true climbers, like the Virginian Creeper, but they
will cover a considerable expanse of wall if planted in good soil.
They bloom profusely in summer.

The Japanese Quince. — Cydonia or Pyrus Japonica, the Japa-
nese Quince, will thrive in the suburbs, and is one of the most
valuable of all wall shrubs, on account of the fact that it blooms
abundantly in winter and early spring. The large, single flowers
of the typical species are almost of sealing-wax colour, but there
are several varieties, in which the colour differs. The plant is
well adapted for a low wall or fence.

Double Yellow Kerria. — This is another very valuable shrub for
a low division. It produces long canes, which are clothed with
double yellow, canary-coloured flowers.

The Pyracantha or Thorn. — The principal beauty of this plant
lies in the berries, which are bright red in colour, and hang for a
long time if the birds spare them.

Other handsome wall plants are procurable. Some amateurs
may like to try the old Wistaria sinensis.

• •• ; -«* "
» * ' ' '

CATTLEYA LABIATA
By A. Fairfax Muckley

FLOWERS FOR SUBURBAN GARDENS 361

Annual Ramblers. — Much can be done to beautify walls and fences
in summer with annual flowers, notably Convolvuluses, Lathyrus
(Everlasting Peas), and Tropaeolums (including Nasturtiums).

The absence of beauty on division fences is often due to the
fact that the soil is poor and dry. Particular attention should
be paid to preparing the ground under walls. It must be turned
over deeply, the subsoil being broken up and manured. Further,
a particular point should be made of planting early in spring,
except in the case of tender Annuals. A great deal can be done
to keep the plants healthy and vigorous by weekly soakings of
water and occasional applications of liquid manure. Light daily
sprinklings are of very little use.

Herbaceous Plants for Suburban Gardens. — The selection of
plants for the borders will give food for much consideration. In
this connection we would refer readers who want full information
to previous chapters, notably those on herbaceous plants and
tender bedders. In these days hardy herbaceous plants hold the
sway in large gardens, and there is no reason why suburban
amateurs should not grow a few representatives of this large,
popular, and beautiful class. A border four feet wide will not, of
course, give the scope for fine colour effects which are procurable
by a judicious use of fine perennials. There is not room for large
groups. But handsome clumps of some good plants can be grown
if the soil is well dug and manured. Let us summarise a few of
the best. Double and single Pyrethrums thrive, and there are
few plants more beautiful. They are suitable for small borders,
because their habit is neat and compact. The foliage is graceful
without being far-spreading. The flowers are thrown well up on
long stems. They are useful for cutting on this account. On the
whole, we certainly commend Pyrethrums to suburban amateurs.
Columbines are delightful plants, the habit being neat and the
flowers elegant, as well as charming in colour. Snapdragons are
admirable in every way. They grow freely almost anywhere, bloom

(2,299; 24

362 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

profusely, and are brilliant in colour. If the ordinary kinds are
considered too large, recourse may be had to the smaller sections,
which are equally as beautiful as the larger. Pentstemons are
very graceful, and the flowers are as charming as those of any
hardy plant in existence. These splendid plants are growing in
favour every year, and suburbanists should make a point of be-
coming acquainted with them. Many of the Michaelmas Daisies
(perennial Asters or Starworts) are too large for small borders,
but others are not, notably dumosus horizontalis, ericoides, and
alpinus ; and they are among the most beautiful. Torch Flowers
(Kniphofias or Tritomas) are very handsome, but they are some-
what bulky, and we must be satisfied with one or two clumps.
Chrysanthemums will do yeoman's service. They are compact
in habit, and produce charming flowers. We have given special
attention to this grand flower already, and need do no more now
than refer our readers to the hints on colour, and selections
of varieties, which appear in previous pages. Montbretias are
graceful and free-blooming plants, with slender spikes of brilliant
flowers rising from a mass of narrow leaves. The perennials
already named, if supplemented by a few bulbs and clumps
of Annuals, would suffice for the majority of small suburban
borders, and they are but a few of the many splendid plants
available.

Annuals for Suburban Gardens. — Such popular hardy Annuals
as Clarkias, Godetias, Linums (Flax), Nasturtiums, Sweet Peas,
Nemophilas, Saponarias, Silenes, Poppies, Candytufts, Convol-
vuluses, Eschscholtzias, Bartonia, Cornflower, Sweet Sultans,
Portulacas, Leptosiphons, Linarias, Love-in-a-mist, Larkspurs,
Mignonette, Phacelia, Virginian Stocks, and Night-scented Stock;
also such beautiful half-hardy kinds as Asters, Ten-week Stocks,
Marigolds, Phlox Drummondii, Nemesias, Scabiouses, Salpiglossis,
and Zinnias are excellent for suburban gardens. A chapter has
been devoted to them already, and we need only say that if the

FLOWERS FOR SUBURBAN GARDENS 363

selections and hints on culture which are there given are followed,
a great charm should be added to gardens.

Bulbs for Suburban Gardens. — We have the lesson of the public
parks before us to prove that bulbs play a prominent part among
spring flowers. It is difficult to say what the park gardeners
would do without Daffodils, Tulips, and Hyacinths. These beau-
tiful bulbs come into a bedding scheme which consists of two
annual plantings — one in autumn, the other in late spring. The
beds are cleared of the summer flowers in October, and planted
with bulbs, which make way in their turn in May for a fresh lot
of summer plants. Amateurs may put clumps of bulbs in their
mixed borders for the sake of a spring display, which will be at
its best when the herbaceous plants are only just starting to grow.
And they may also plant bulbs in beds, interspersed, if desired,
with Arabises, Aubrietias, and Forget-me-nots; all of which can
be cleared away in May to make room for half-hardy Annuals
or orthodox bedding plants, such as Tuberous Begonias, Zonal
Geraniums, and Ivy-leaved Geraniums and Mimuluses. We have
given full directions on the culture of bulbs, as well as hints
on the choice of varieties, in a previous section, and also copious
notes on bedding plants.

Roses for Suburban Gardens. — It is with deep regret that we
find ourselves unable to recommend Roses unreservedly as plants
for suburban gardens. Their beauty of form, their glorious
colours, their fragrance, render these magnificent flowers supreme.
Unfortunately the plants do not care for town life. Impure air
has a marked effect upon them. The leaves get coated with
smuts, and the buds refuse to open. The plants may flower fairly
well once or twice, but they steadily decline. Whether success
can be achieved in suburban gardens or not depends more on the
atmosphere than on anything else. We have failed to grow Roses
satisfactorily in a London suburb, and succeeded admirably near
a country town. If there are no factories close to the garden, and

364 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

the houses are not dense, very fair success can be achieved. But
near large works, and with houses close together, Roses will
probably fail.

Something turns upon culture, however. If the soil is well
prepared, and strong plants of vigorous sorts are put in, the
prospects of success are brighter than in a poor soil and with
weak varieties. In our Rose chapter we saw that the plants like
a substantial, holding soil and abundance of manure. We advised
the trenching of the soil and the digging in of liberal dressings of
manure. Road scrapings are good for Roses, and this material is
generally procurable in the suburbs of towns. Any trouble that
is taken in preparing the ground will be rewarded, and the good
work thus done can be supplemented by giving generous doses of
liquid manure throughout the summer, and house slops (including
soapsuds) at all seasons when they are available. Most of the
advertised fertilisers are soluble in water, and may be used as
liquid manure. Peruvian and other refined guanos, also super-
phosphate, make excellent liquid manure if used at the rate of an
ounce per gallon. Hoeing the soil among Roses is good practice.

It is wise to make the most of the limited energies of the
plants by restricting them to a few shoots and flowers. Half-
a-dozen branches will be better than twice that number. The
clusters of flower-buds may be thinned down to one in each case,
except in certain bunch-flowered varieties like Gruss an Teplitz.

We gave a list of good Roses in Chapter I., but the trial of
a considerable number of newer varieties since that was written,
in which we have found some charming varieties, induces us to
give a further list. They comprise representatives of various
classes.

HYBRID PERPETUAL ROSES

The Hybrid Perpetual Roses, with their large, richly coloured,
highly perfumed flowers, are a very popular class, and they are

FLOWERS FOR SUBURBAN GARDENS 365

invariably prominent at the exhibitions. Of the newer varieties of
these we should give prominence to the following : —

Red Shades
Commandant Felix Faure. | Hugh Dickson. | J. B. Clark. | M. H. Walsh.

Rose and Pink
David R. Williamson. | Lady Overtown. | Mrs. Cocker. | Rosslyn.

Hugh Dickson is a fine crimson, and does well late in the
season. It is nicely scented. J. B. Clark is also a good Rose.
We are not sure that this is rightly classed among the Hybrid
Perpetuals, but the classification of Roses is a highly debatable
question.

Frau Karl Druschki remains the best of the newer white Hybrid
Perpetuals, and it is much to be regretted that this splendid
variety, with its grand flowers, is scentless.

TEA ROSES

The Tea-scented Roses are a lovely class, as they unite pretty
leaf-tints with charming flowers, and all are scented. The following
are among the most beautiful of the newer varieties : —

White or Blush
Peace. | Comtesse de Saxe. | Mrs. Myles Kennedy.

Rose, Red, and Carmine
Mrs. B. R. Cant. | Corallina.

Lemon to Orange
Harry Kirk. | Hugo Roller. | Mrs. Dudley Cross. | Souvenir de Stella Gray. | Sulphurea.

With reference to the above, Peace is one of the best varieties
that we have for late blooming ; it flowers freely, and the flowers

366

BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

are handsome. The colour is white to lemon. Comtesse de Saxe
is a very pleasing white.

Corallina is a very valuable variety, as it forms a large bush,
blooms abundantly and late, and is of a distinct shade of coral
red. It would be as likely to do well in a suburban garden as
any of those named. Harry Kirk is a very pretty sulphur-coloured
variety, and although there are many yellows of various shades, it
is likely to hold a high place in public esteem. Mrs. Dudley Cross
is a very distinct tint, which has been described as chamois yellow.
It is a very attractive variety. Souvenir de Stella Gray, orange
and yellow, is extremely pleasing.

HYBRID TEA ROSES

By far the largest number of new Roses belong — or are said to
belong by their raisers — to the Hybrid Tea class. They comprise
some of the most beautiful of Roses, and are sure of an abiding
place in the favour of rosarians. The following are some of the
best of the newer varieties : —

Gustave Grunerwald.

Betty.

Lady Ashtown.

Lady Helen Vincent.

Pink and Rose

La Tosca.
Elizabeth Barnes.
Wm. Shean.

Yellow, Salmon, and Orange

Earl of Warwick.

Pharisaer.

Prince de Bulgarie.

Instituteur Sirdey. | Madame Melanie Soupert. | Marquise de Sinety. | Le Progres.

Souvenir de Maria Zozaya.
Dean Hole.
Edu Meyer.
Avoca.

Florence Pemberton.

Scarlet, Carmine, and Crimson

Ecarlate.

General MacArthur.

Madame J. W. Budde.

Cream
Frau Lilla Rautenstrauch.

Mrs. A. M. Kirker.

Richmond.

Warrior.

Mrs. T. Roosevelt.

FLOWERS FOR SUBURBAN GARDENS 367

Where all are so beautiful it is very difficult to make a choice.
Lady Ashtovvn is a charming pink, and Lady Helen Vincent a pink
with a yellow base. Earl of Warwick is a fine salmon pink.
Edu Meyer is coppery red with a salmon shading. Madame
Melanie Soupert is a very pretty salmon-coloured variety, which
blooms freely and has a particularly neat flower. Marquise de
Sinety is a rich yellow inclining to orange. Ecarlate is a par-
ticularly vivid scarlet, and General MacArthur a splendid crimson,
bearing abundance of flowers. These are two of the best of the
deeper coloured Hybrid Teas. Mrs. T. Roosevelt is a fine cream-
coloured variety, with large, handsome, substantial flowers. It
ought to become a great favourite for exhibition.

DWARF SINGLE ROSES

A class of low-growing single-flowered Roses has been intro-
duced, with flowers of great beauty. Three of the best are : —

Irish Elegance, bronzy orange. | Irish Engineer, scarlet. | Irish Glory, silvery pink.

Of these Irish Elegance is the most desirable. It is a beautiful
and very distinct variety. Exquisite sprays of it can be cut for
vase decoration.

TWO BEAUTIFUL CONTINENTAL HYBRIDS
Two of the most distinct Roses that we have are : —

Gottfried Keller, apricot, semi-double. | The Lyon, coral, tinted chrome.

These are hybrids of Continental origin. The latter is a par-
ticularly interesting variety. It is supposed to have Austrian Brier
blood in its veins, and is classed as a Hybrid Pernetiana Rose-
quite a new section.

JAPANESE ROSES

The Japanese Roses (Rosa rugosa varieties), with their rough
leaves, large flowers, and huge hips, are useful for forming large

368 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

groups, and have not hitherto been held in very high esteem for
their flowers, but the modern varieties have charming blossoms. The
following are both beautiful : —

Conrad F. Meyer, rose. | Nova Zembla, white.

The former is a splendid variety, with large double flowers, and
adds new value to the class. The latter is a white sport from it.

DWARF POLYANTHA ROSES

These delightful little Roses are among the most interesting
of the whole genus. They are of neat, bushy habit, and they
bear their flowers in bunches. The colours are bright and varied.
It will give the reader an idea of this class if we ask him to
imagine the popular arch Rose Dorothy Perkins as a low bush
plant, say two feet high and the same through, with bunches of
flowers similar to those which it bears on arches, but the clusters
somewhat smaller. There are two or three such sorts, and there are
other varieties of different colour. Here are the names of a few : —

Cecile Brunner, rose.

Leonie Lamesch ^ copper.

Madame N. Levavasseur, crimson.

Maman Levavasseur, pink.
Mrs. W. H. Cutbush, pink.
Phyllis Merryweather, pink.

Madame N. Levavasseur is the dwarf Crimson Rambler. Maman
Levavasseur is the variety called by British florists the Baby
Dorothy, as it is a non-rambling form of Dorothy Perkins. Both
Mrs. W. H. Cutbush and Phyllis Merryweather might be similarly
described, and they are superior to Maman Levavasseur. Either
of these, with Leonie Lamesch, would make a charming pair of
representatives of the Dwarf Polyantha Roses.

DWARF CHINA ROSES

This class somewhat resembles the foregoing in habit. The
plants are dwarf, bushy, and covered with pretty little flowers.

FLOWERS FOR SUBURBAN GARDENS 369

They make beautiful beds. The following are a few of the
best : —

Madame Laurette Messimy, rose. | Madame Eugene Rtsal, red. | Queen Mab, apricot.

CLIMBING ROSES

With the selection given in the first chapter may be considered
the following newer varieties : —

Blush Rambler, blush.
Electra, lemon.
Kathleen, carmine, white
Leuchstern, bright rose.
Mrs. F. W. Flight, pink.
Philadelphia Rambler, dark crimson.
Tausendschon, pink.

The Lion, crimson, single.

Trier, cream.

Elisa Robichon, salmon Wichuraiana.

Minnehaka, pink, like Dorothy Perkins.

Madame Re"nt Andrt, cream.

Paradise, pink and white, single.

Climbing Frau Karl Druschki, white.

The hints on pruning given in Chapter I. apply equally to Roses
grown in suburban gardens.

We advise suburbanists who are in doubt as to whether Roses
might be expected to succeed in their gardens to try a few vigorous
varieties first of all, and if the results are satisfactory they could
increase the collection. The following would be good to start with : —

Mrs. John Laing.
Ulrich Brunner.

G. Nabonnand.

Augustine Guinoisseau.
Griiss an Teplitz.

Hybrid Perpetuals

Frau Karl Druschki.
Hugh Dickson.

Teas
Peace. | Corallina.

Hybrid Teas

Madame Abel Chatenay.
General MacArthur.

Xavier Olibo.

Anna Ollivier.

Richmond.
Caroline Testout.

Carnations in Suburban Gardens. — The Carnation is a genuine
town garden plant. Some of the most famous of Carnation growers
have cultivated their favourites in or near a town. The fact is,
the Carnation has none of that susceptibility to the influences of

370 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

impure air which makes the Rose so tantalising. We do not say
that, other things being equal, Carnations will not thrive better in
pure country air than in the atmosphere in or near a town ; but
knowing as we do how well town and suburban growers manage
them, and that some of the principal exhibitors for many years past,
and at the present day, have grown this popular plant in and near
towns, we have no hesitation in recommending suburbanists to give
special attention to it. Many amateur gardeners love to take up
one particular flower and concentrate attention on it. They find
that they get more pleasure and satisfaction from this than from
spreading their energies over a large number of kinds. To those
of this class who garden near towns the Carnation may be warmly
recommended. It responds to specialisation in a remarkable way,
yielding magnificent flowers. The collection may be grown either
in the garden or under glass, or partly under both conditions.
Exhibitors mostly make use of glass. The cultural hints and
selections of varieties given in the special chapter devoted to
Carnations apply to suburban as to other conditions of culture,
and we need, therefore, do no more in this section than draw the
attention of amateur gardeners to this splendid plant as one which
ought to suit their circumstances admirably.

Auriculas in Suburban Gardens. — As in the case of the Car-
nation, so in that of the Auricula, some of the most successful
growers and exhibitors have been town and suburban gardeners.
One of the finest collections of prize Auriculas which it was ever
our privilege to see was grown by a working cutler in the heart
of smoky Sheffield. The Auricula has none of the majesty of the
Rose, none of the fluttering grace of the Sweet Pea, none of the
massive beauty of the Chrysanthemum. It is a tiny plant, retiring
and modest. But it has a charm, a winsomeness, which appeal
powerfully to lovers of refined flowers. It is a dainty little floral
gem, pretty in form, pleasing in colour, and delightful in perfume.
Suburban not less than country gardeners who want to specialise

FLOWERS FOR SUBURBAN GARDENS 371

one or two particular flowers might do worse than consider the
claims of the Auricula. It will not give brilliant effects either
indoors or out, but it will always be interesting. Being an ever-
green plant, it will have something to show, if only healthy leaves,
throughout the whole of the year.

CLASSES OF AURICULAS

Florists put Auriculas into two main classes — the Stage (or
Show) and the Alpine ; but a third class, called Border Auriculas,
is recognised nowadays, when hardy plants are used so much.
The last are generally raised from seed. The Stage Auriculas are
subdivided into Green-edged, Grey-edged, White-edged, and Self.
In the case of the first three the distinctive term springs, as would
be supposed, from the colour on the margin of the flower. Within
is the " paste " or meal. The Selfs are not, as might be expected,
of one colour only ; they also contain paste, as well as a distinctly
coloured tube, but flowers with yellow and dark margins are called
Selfs. The Alpines have no paste. They are generally larger
than the Stage varieties, and the plants are hardier. The Border
Auriculas are really Alpines.

The Auricula is specialised as a florists' flower, the same as
Roses, Dahlias, Sweet Peas, Daffodils, Carnations, and Tulips.
There are Societies devoted to it and its connection the Primula
(botanically all Auriculas are Primulas), and Auricula Shows are
held in London and one or two provincial centres in spring.
The Auricula has not so numerous a following as the Rose, the
Sweet Pea, and the Daffodil ; indeed, the rise of the last-named
flower has doubtless affected the Auricula as a specialist's flower.
It has a difficulty in holding its own. The old lovers of the
flower die out, and the rising generation grows something else.
The state of affairs which exists may be judged by the fact
that only a small handful of trade florists maintain representative

372

BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

collections nowadays, whereas hundreds keep large stocks of the
other flowers named. The difficulty which the Stage Auricula has

to maintain its position is not wholly due
to the competition of the Daffodil, but
arises in part from the fact that it is of
little use as a border plant. We are full
of decorative gardening in these days, and
a plant which will not lend itself to the
formation of effective beds and borders runs
considerable risk of going to the wall. The
old florists always grew their Auriculas in

STAGE AURICULA

A, tube ; B, body; c, edge? D, anthers pOts under glass, generally in frames, and

filling mouth of tube ; E, stigma low *

down in tube; F shows general that is really the only way of getting

It is true that

habit of plant.

good results from them,
the plants are hardy enough to live out of doors, but the meal or
paste of which we have already spoken, and which in combination
with the even margin of green, grey, or white gives the flower its
exquisite refinement, would be affected by
rain, and the beauty of the flowers would
be spoiled.

The flower of a florists' Auricula may
be said to consist of four distinctly marked
parts — the tube, the paste, the body colour,
and the edge. It must be round and flat,
and the edge must be quite even and smooth.
A jagged, quartered, or uneven flower might
have pleasing colours, but it would possess
no charms for the true florist. The tube
should be of a clear lemon, canary, or
yellow shade, and quite circular. The anthers will be prominent
in it, but the stigma will be hidden. The paste or meal which
surrounds the tube should be dense and white ; if patchy or cloudy
the flower is imperfect. The ring of colour round the paste should

ALPINE AURICULA
Showing offsets growing.

FLOWERS FOR SUBURBAN GARDENS 373

be perfectly even and solid, and the band of colour on the edge
should also be an even circle, whether green, grey, or white.

It might be thought that such perfect banding as this would
be impossible of attainment, but if well-bred varieties are grown
they will respond quite in the way that the grower wants to good
cultivation.

The Alpines are less elaborate, inasmuch as they do not
contain any paste. There is a central colour — yellow, white, or
cream — and an edging in the form of a broad band, generally of
a dark colour, but somewhat paler at the edge than at the interior.
They are more showy flowers than the Stage section, and are
perhaps more popular with the general public ; certainly some of
the fine modern Alpines are great favourites. Being hardy, and
having no meal to be spoiled by rain, they are admirable for
garden culture. They may be used as clumps in borders, or rock-
work, or in beds, either alone or in association with Tulips. We
fear that we cannot say that they are ideal spring flowers for town
gardens, although the frame Auriculas may be grown in towns, as
we have stated already.

CULTURE OF PRIZE AURICULAS

An amateur who wanted to grow a collection of Stage and
Alpine Auriculas in pots, with which to compete at exhibitions,
would be wise to face the expense of making a start with named
varieties of recognised standards. Judges are familiar with these
varieties, and expect to see them. They would not pass over a
really good seedling because they did not know it under name;
on the contrary, they would cluster round it eagerly, and compare
it with the best of the standard varieties. But really good seed-
lings are few and far between. A collection of ordinary ones
would not stand a ghost of a chance against a collection of named
varieties. Prize Auriculas may be expected to cost from one-arid-

374

BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

sixpence to half-a-guinea a plant. Most of the leading varieties
can be bought for half-a-crown each. If this is complained of as

dear, it must be said that Auriculas can never
be really cheap, because they increase very
slowly, and trade growers are unable to work
up a large stock of them quickly. They are
propagated by means of offsets, which are
taken off late in winter and put in small
pots. We must not be understood as con-
tending that Auriculas of a sort cannot be
raised fairly quickly. The plants grow readily

AURICULA-PROPAGATION ffQm ^fe Jf fa^ ^ ^^ ^ ^^ ^ ^

Offsets severed from parent plant.

A, offset with a few roots are ripe ; but the point is that the plants

attached ; B, parent plant

stem ; c, offset inserted in resulting cannot be relied upon to come of

soil.

anything like the quality of their parents. So
far as garden Auriculas are concerned, there need be no hesita-
tion in growing them from seed, just like hardy Primulas and
Polyanthuses. If seed is got from one of the florists who make
a speciality of these plants, charming varieties
are sure to result. The seed may be sown in
May or June, in fine, moist soil in the open,
the seedlings thinned, transplanted in due
course, and put in the beds or borders in
autumn. They will flower the following spring.
Pot Auriculas thrive in a compost of four

,-, , , - , r tii AURICULA— POTTING

parts fibrous loam, one each of leaf-mould, de-

A shows old ball of soil re-

cayed manure, and sand, all well mixed.

Prize Auriculas are repotted annually, and
the work is done soon after flowering. It
ought not to be done later than July. Five-inch pots are a
suitable size, and many growers use glazed instead of ordinary
porous pots. They find that the plants do perfectly well in
such pots, and the surface of the pottery never gets green and

duced ; B, drainage, and
rougher pans of compost
in the bottom of the pot ;
C, space left for watering.

FLOWERS FOR SUBURBAN GARDENS 375

slimy. Whatever kind of pots are used, they should be drained
with an inch or so of crocks and lumps of soil, such as flakes
of leaf-mould. The soil should be pressed firmly round the
plants, but not made absolutely hard. The plants should be
replaced in the frame, on a bed of cool ashes or a low wooden
stage, and kept close and on the dry side for a week, by the end
of which time the roots ought to be working freely again. Atten-
tion to watering and ventilating will be all that is requisite until
February, when the plants may be deprived of any offsets which
have formed, and top-dressed. It is customary to place the frames
in positions facing north during the summer, and facing south
during the winter.

A sharp look-out should be kept for the Auricula louse and
for green fly, which must be brushed away before they have time
to spread and cause injury.

Auriculas grown for garden decoration in late spring may con-
sist entirely of mixed seedlings, but there are certain select named
varieties grown which are particularly fine, and well worthy of
special attention. Border Auriculas, like most of the Primrose
family, love a cool, holding soil. They do not care for poor, dry,
sun-baked spots. They make delightful beds in May, and may
be associated with Cottage and Darwin Tulips if desired ; but care
should be taken to plant thinly, because these Tulips are very
strong growers, and need a good deal of room. The Auriculas
may be lifted after flowering, the decaying trusses picked off, and
planted in a spare bed. They will come in again for future use.

Having touched upon the principal points in the culture of
Auriculas, we may now proceed to give selections of varieties,
including some from the various sections.

Green-edged
John Garrett.
Julian.
Rev. F. D. Horner.

Grey-edged
Colonel Champneys.
George Rudd.
Richard Headly.

White-edged

Acme.

Heather Bell.
Reliance.

Selfs

Black Bess.
Heroine.
Mrs. Potts.
Ruby.

376 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

Alpines

Celtic King, a splendid yellow border
variety.

Dean Hole, maroon, yellow centre.

Old Double Yellow, a scarce and interest-
ing sort.

Masterpiece, purplish maroon, yellow

margin.

Mrs. Harry Turner, purplish maroon,

cream centre.

Chrysanthemums for Suburban Gardens. — The Chrysanthemum
is one of the great flowers of the suburban gardener. From the
earliest days of the Golden Flower being specialised in this country
it has been grown by suburbanists, and it is worthy of note that
the National Chrysanthemum Society was founded in a London
suburb. Amateurs grow Chrysanthemums both in pots and borders :
in the former, for the decoration of their conservatories in autumn ;
in the latter, for giving border beauty in August, September, and
October. As we have given a special article to the Chrysanthemum,
giving details of culture and full selections of varieties, and as the
system of management is practically the same in all cases, we need
not deal with the flower at any length here; but we are very
desirous of encouraging suburbanists to make the utmost use of
this magnificent plant, and as an incitement to them to grow it
we may remind them of the splendid displays which are to be
found in the London and provincial town parks in autumn, as
well as in the gardens and greenhouses of countless town amateurs.
Several large Chrysanthemum nurseries are to be found within
the confines of London and other large towns. We will admit
one difficulty, which is greater in town than in country gardens,
that of the flowers " damping " in foggy weather ; but it is not
general in most seasons, if the management is good.

Sweet Peas in Suburban Gardens. — Suburban gardeners have
not failed to take note of the wonderful development of the Sweet
Pea, and to press some of the exquisite modern varieties into
their service. Fortunately the Sweet Pea is a very good suburban
flower. We have seen it fail in the immediate vicinity of gas-

FLOWERS FOR SUBURBAN GARDENS 377

works; but that even such unsuitable surroundings are not fatal
was proved by the fact that 100 yards away another set of plants
was thriving. We may refer suburbanists to the special chapter
on Sweet Peas for information as to culture and varieties, empha-
sising the fact that vigorous seedlings and deep, well-manured soil
are of the greatest importance. If we had to grow Sweet Peas
in gardens much closed in by small houses, or near factories, we
should devote particular attention to raising very strong, sturdy
plants in pots or boxes. If we had no glass we would go to
the expense of a frame, which would not cost much. With good
potting soil, and attention to watering and ventilation, we should
expect to get strong plants. We would put twigs in the pots, and
let the seedlings run to about nine inches high before putting them
out. After planting them we would see that they never suffered
from dry soil until they had got into thorough going order, and
we would freshen them up frequently with the syringe. Knowing
as we do of many amateurs who grow Sweet Peas successfully in
the suburbs, we have no hesitation in recommending all amateurs
who have not already tasted the pleasures of Sweet Pea growing
to resolve that not another season shall be lost. We believe in
the regular picking of Sweet Peas while the flowers are young
in all cases, and it is particularly advisable in suburban gardens.
Though the plants love sunshine, it is no serious disadvantage if
they miss the sun for three or four hours in the day. The salmon,
orange, and thin-petalled scarlet and crimson varieties soon lose
their freshness in hot sun. Regular hoeing will help to keep the
plants growing, and soakings of liquid manure once or twice a
week (not driblets every day) will be stimulating and beneficial.

Dahlias in Suburban Gardens. — The Dahlia is not an ideal sub-
urban plant, partly because it likes a cooler, moister, and richer soil
than generally prevails, partly because it is bulky and makes
greater demands on space than can be met in many cases. In
small gardens we would rather rely on the smaller Michaelmas

(2,299) 25

378 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

Daisies and early Chrysanthemums for late summer and autumn
bloom than on Dahlias, and if these two splendid plants are well
selected and grown the Dahlias will never be missed. However,
we are far from saying that Dahlias are impossible suburban plants.
Given rich, moist soil and sufficient room, they may very well be
represented. A Dahlia lover who felt that he could not provide
reasonably promising conditions for the large double and Cactus
Dahlias might try the Pompons. They are very pretty, and they
will do with a poorer soil than the rest. Hints on culture and
varieties have been given.

Pansies and Violas in Suburban Gardens. — As confirmed lovers
of moist, cool soil, Pansies are not perfect plants for suburban
gardens, where the ground is often hot and dry ; but it is not
impossible to grow them successfully, as we have proved by our
own experience. We have even planted them at midsummer ; but
special precautions had to be taken in the way of shading. It
will be well for any suburbanist who wishes to grow Pansies
to thoroughly dig the soil in winter, and if possible work in a
liberal dressing of cow manure. Further, he would be wise to
plant early in spring, so as to give the plants a good chance of
getting established before the hot, dry weather of summer came.
Then, with hoeing and watering, he ought to get some nice flowers.
Until he had felt his way, it would not be wise to buy expensive
named varieties ; he should begin with seedlings, which he can
raise himself by sowing a packet of seed in a box in a greenhouse
or warm frame in winter, thinning, pricking-off, and planting out
in due course. Probably more amateurs will wish to grow Violas
than Pansies, and in this case named varieties may be selected
from the list given in a previous chapter and planted early in
spring. They will thrive if good soil is given, and a weekly soak-
ing of water is supplied. There should of course be regular hoeing.

Irises for Suburban Gardens. — The Great German or Flag Irises
are almost ideal plants for town and suburban gardens. They care

FLOWERS FOR SUBURBAN GARDENS 379

for nothing. Bad air, poor soil, drought — all these bugbears of
plants the German Iris will endure, and even thrive in. With
their thick rhizomes they are able to withstand drought almost as
well as a camel. We do not, of course, say that the Flag Irises
give the very best that is in them in town gardens. Like the rest
of planthood — and humanity too, for the
matter of that — they enjoy the good things
of life. In pure air and in rich, deep soil,
they make growth of the utmost luxuri-
ance, and throw up tremendous flower
spikes, crowned by huge blooms. But the
point that we have to keep before our-
selves in the present connection is that
they can dispense with luxuries and still
give good results. Those town and sub-
urban amateurs who have poor, dry soil
and a hot position to contend with should
make the Flag Iris one of their principal

plants. They might even specialise it to A)Ashowhowtodividether0ot.stock.
the extent of growing a collection of the ^d1l^r£Z£epir!iIMirb'
best varieties. To meet the wants of

those who may like to follow this course, we may give a somewhat
larger selection than that suggested on page 87, Volume I.

GERMAN IRIS— DIVIDING
ROOT-STOCK

SELECT GERMAN OR FLAG IRISES

Atropurpurea, dark purple, rich colour.
Duchess de Nemours, pale heliotrope.
Darius, lilac with white margin, orange

beard.
L' Innocence, pure white.

Madame Chereau, blue and white.
Othello, blue.

Pallida, lavender, very fine.
Pallida Garibaldi, lilac and rose.
Sans Souci, yellow, brown veins.

They may be planted in autumn or spring. Established plants
should be divided and planted in fresh soil when the root-stock
gets very much matted.

380 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

It should be noted that the Japanese Irises (laevigata or Kaemp-
feri) are totally different from the Flags, requiring a moist soil.
They are magnificent plants, but they are not suitable for the
majority of suburban gardens.

The English and Spanish Irises will thrive in suburban gardens,
and they are both beautiful and cheap. They are not rhizome
rooted, but bulbous, and dealers supply them in autumn with
Hyacinths, Tulips, and other bulbs. Although smaller than the
Flags, the flowers are little less beautiful. Dealers offer named
varieties of both classes, but it is scarcely worth while to buy
them, as there are no shows for them, and practically no discussion
on the different sorts. Mixed bulbs will do quite well.

The foregoing notes on some of the most useful plants for
small gardens, with the fuller remarks in previous chapters, will,
it is hoped, be of assistance to suburban amateurs. We need
not deal at length with plants for the greenhouse, supposing such
a structure to be erected, because a comprehensive chapter has
been devoted to greenhouses and suitable plants for them ; but
we may let fall the hint that the plan of specialising one or two
particular classes of flowers, which is so popular nowadays with
garden plants, is by no means without advantages for the green-
house. An amateur with a warm house may, for instance, make
a speciality of Zonal Geraniums, which will form a beautiful display
in winter if a minimum temperature of 50° can be maintained. No
genus of plants, indeed, will do more to brighten a greenhouse
at the dull season. In the case of an unheated house bulbous and
allied plants, such as Spiraeas, Dielytras, Lilies of the Valley,
Christmas Roses, and Deutzias must be drawn upon largely.

We have spoken hitherto of quite small suburban gardens, at
the back of terrace houses. More may, of course, be done in the
larger gardens belonging to semi-detached and wholly detached

FLOWERS FOR SUBURBAN GARDENS 381

villas further out. When these are situated in purely residential
districts the conditions almost approximate to those in the coun-
try, and even Roses can be grown successfully. Owners of such
gardens may have a somewhat more elaborate plan, and in some
cases at least they can introduce fruit and vegetables if they wish.
We should, however, recommend that flowers still be given pride
of place. Vegetables are excellent in their way, but they do not
add one iota of the pleasure and interest to a home that flowers
are capable of yielding. The few shillings a month that they
save in the greengrocer's bill amount to little compared with the
gratification of seeing beds, borders, and rooms full of beautiful
and fragrant flowers. In any case, as vegetables and fruit do
not come within the scope of the present work we must pass
them over.

Pergolas and Arches in Suburban Gardens. — There are one or
two features of interest worth mentioning for the larger and more
airy suburban garden which are not quite appropriate for those
that are severely restricted in area. One of these is a pergola, or
series of connected arches. Those who are prepared to go to such
trouble and expense as are entailed by getting the requisite
quantity of poles will be repaid by the beauty and interest of
the erection when complete. On pages 271 and 272 of the present
volume we give practical illustrations of pergola erection, showing
a ground plan, how to embed the posts, and how to connect the
top timbers. Further, we give hints on the class of wood to
employ and how to treat it. Suggestions for selecting plants to
cover the pergola are offered. We can hardly advise any par-
ticular suburban amateur to plant the beautiful Roses named on
page 272, and other climbing varieties mentioned in the present
chapter, without knowledge of his circumstances ; but if the air is
fairly pure he may certainly feel his way with a few of them,
filling up the first year or two with plants grown from seed, such
as Canary Creeper, Convolvuluses, Ornamental Gourds, Cobaea

382 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

scandens, and tall Nasturtiums. If experience prove that the
Roses tentatively planted do well, he may drop Annuals in future
and plant more Roses.

More arches may be introduced with the greater number of
sections into which the garden is likely to be divided. We do
not believe in putting up arches merely for the sake of doing it.
We would not, for instance, put an arch in the middle of a lawn,
although we might construct an arbour there. We would not put
one over the middle of a path merely for the pleasure of walking
under something. But we would certainly introduce arches wher-
ever there was a legitimate opening for them, because they break
up the uniformity of a garden. As indications of appropriate places
for arches we may mention the junction of flower and kitchen
gardens, and entrances to sections divided off by hedges, shrubs,
or trellis-work. See pages 268 to 271 inclusive for practical hints
on the formation of arches.

Herbaceous Borders in large Suburban Gardens. — One immense
advantage which the large suburban garden will enjoy over its
smaller neighbour is the capacity for providing a capacious herba-
ceous border. We have seen that something can be done even
with a four-feet border, but to get a thoroughly effective one we
ought to have a width of eight feet at least. This permits of
introducing large clumps of such plants as Paeonies, Delphiniums,
Hollyhocks, Ox-eye Daisies, Phloxes, the larger Michaelmas Daisies,
Chrysanthemums, and other bold, richly coloured things. The
planter does not feel himself skimped and pinched for room.
He can give rein to his fancy. He has a sense of breadth and
freedom.

With a really good herbaceous border no garden can be
wholly ineffective. It has one great outstanding feature at least
which raises it above mediocrity. And the border will not only
be beautiful and interesting as a whole; it will yield large and
constant supplies of flowers for carrying into the house. We gave

FLOWERS FOR SUBURBAN GARDENS 383

full instructions on the preparation and planting of herbaceous
borders.

Shrubs in Suburban Gardens. — The suburbanist with a fair
amount of room can also add to the interest of his garden by
planting more shrubs. He is no longer compelled to restrict him-
self to a few Aucubas and Laurels, introduced as much for their
services as blocks and screens as for their intrinsic beauty. He
can add flowering shrubs. The majority of these lose their leaves
in autumn, the same as herbaceous plants, so that they are not
of very much value for forming screens. Nor should they be
looked upon as stop-gaps. They should be introduced with the
deliberate object of adding direct beauty to the garden with their
foliage and flowers. Many of the best flowering shrubs thrive in
suburban gardens where the air is fairly pure, if the ground is
well prepared for them and the general culture is good. A great
deal depends upon the preparation of the soil. This should be
as thorough as for Roses — that is, it should be bastard trenched
and manured so as to get a depth of about two feet. While the
majority of flowering shrubs will do better in cool, holding soil
than in light land, they will thrive in the latter if it is well
prepared.

The majority of the flowering shrubs bloom in spring, but
some excellent kinds can be got which will blossom at other
seasons ; indeed, it is possible to have beauty almost throughout
the year, as a few actually flower in winter. We will draw atten-
tion to some handsome shrubs which will flower at different
periods.

We must not expect much bloom in the winter, but there
are a few kinds which will flower in that quarter. One of
these is the Glastonbury Thorn. The Thorns belong to the
botanical genus Crataegus, and the Glastonbury Thorn bears the
botanical name of Crataegus Oxyacantha praecox. Crataegus Oxy-
acantha sounds formidable, but it is really neither more nor less

384 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

than the common Thorn. Praecox (will the reader please think
of the word "precocious" as a help to remembering this name?)
is merely an early flowering form of the common Thorn. Some
readers will be familiar with the story of how Joseph of Arima-
thea visited England with the Holy Grail, and founded the first
Christian church built in this country at Glastonbury, in that
county of pastures and cider orchards, Somersetshire. Joseph is
said to have thrust his staff into the ground; it rooted, and "ever
afterwards " the tree blossomed on old Christmas Eve. As a
matter of fact the Glastonbury Thorn often flowers in autumn.

We have already referred to the Japanese Quince, Cydonia (or
Pyrus) Japonica, as a winter bloomer, mentioning it in connection
with wall plants. It may be grown in the open if desired. This
shrub has become so popular, partly on account of its early flower-
ing and partly because of its large and brilliant blossoms, that
florists have given attention to it, and several varieties, differing
in the colours of their flowers, are procurable. It does not gener-
ally flower until late in winter, but a good deal depends upon
the weather.

A shrub that may be grown in a sheltered part of the open
shrubbery, but is perhaps better on or near a wall, is Chimonan-
thus fragrans. It is not a popular plant, possibly because there is
nothing showy about it, but the flowers have a distinct and very
powerful fragrance. It is worth growing.

The winter Jasmine, which was mentioned under wall plants,
takes rank as a shrub, and may be grown against a pole in the
shrubbery. It is, of course, a pronounced winter bloomer, and
a first-class town plant.

Daphne Mezereum is a delightful winter and early spring
shrub. It is of dwarf, upright, neat habit, and consequently does
not take up a great deal of room. It has small, pinkish, very
sweet flowers. The plant is not very particular as to soil, and
does well in suburban gardens.

FLOWERS FOR SUBURBAN GARDENS 385

Some of the Magnolias are early bloomers, and among them
the beautiful species stellata ranks very high. It has large, pure
white flowers, which are borne in advance of the leaves, and which
clothe the stems in a snowy star-mantle of bloom. Magnolia stellata
flowers freely in quite a small state, and is consequently suitable
for comparatively small borders.

Forsythia suspensa is a very early bloomer, and in mild winters
is out before the spring quarter begins. It produces long, slender
canes wreathed in bright yellow flowers, and grows almost anywhere.
It must be regarded as one of the best of early flowering shrubs,
and should not be omitted, however small the collection.

The flowering Currant, Ribes sanguineum, is a very early
flowering shrub, which makes itself at home in nearly all kinds
of soil, grows freely, and blooms profusely. It is really a valuable
plant to the amateur, on account of its happy and accommodating
nature, and its generosity in flowering. The typical plant has rose-
coloured flowers, but there is an inexpensive white form, and several
special varieties that cost a little more.

The queen of the spring-flowering shrubs is undoubtedly the
Rhododendron, a noble plant, alike in habit, foliage, and bloom.
We should not attempt its culture in small, much enclosed gardens
quite close to factories ; not that it is a weakling, but because it
must be grown with suitable surroundings in order to look its best.
A small plant stuck among other shrubs is apt to look insignificant,
especially if bare at the base; but even a solitary Rhododendron
looks well if somewhat isolated, surrounded by grass, and clothed
with foliage quite to the base. Of course, Rhododendrons look
best of all when they are planted in a group at some distance from
the house, with a broad belt of grass in front of them.

The Rhododendron likes, and is worthy of, special treatment.
It does not care for a stiff, cold, damp soil, and it absolutely detests
a limestone one, refusing to grow in such a medium as the latter.
It likes peat, and it enjoys fibrous loam, as indeed do most plants.

386

BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

An amateur who particularly admires Rhododendrons would be
well advised to carefully consider the soil question, and if his own
ground is unsuitable, remove the soil to a depth of two feet where
he proposes to plant Rhododendrons, and substitute a mixture of
peat and loam. The cost ought not to be so heavy as to counter-
balance the pleasure derived from success with the grandest hardy
shrub grown. The position also should be considered. One pro-
tected from strong, cold winds is desirable. Rhododendrons may
be planted at almost any time from autumn to spring, but they
rarely shift better than in April, late as this month seems for
planting. Of course they could not be expected to succeed when
planted in spring if exposed to cold winds and insufficiently watered.
Rhododendrons bloom during winter in very mild, moist dis-
tricts in the extreme south-west of England, but further north
they flower in spring, sometimes nearly at the end of that quarter.
When they are planted in positions where the heat of the midday
sun is intercepted the flowers last a long time in beauty. They
ought to be picked off when they fade, but not so low down as
to injure the new buds which will probably have formed at the base
of the flower truss. The following are beautiful varieties : —

John Waterer, crimson.
Michael Waterer, brilliant red.
Mrs. John Glutton, white.

Pink Pearl, light pink.
Princess of Wales, rose.
The Queen, blush.

Azaleas are also beautiful shrubs, but most of them, unlike
Rhododendrons, lose their leaves in the winter. The reader will
doubtless be quite familiar with the charming Azaleas seen in
florists' windows in spring, but these belong to the Indian section,
and are not hardy enough to be grown out of doors. The mollis
type is the best for garden culture. The colours are not so varied
and brilliant as those of Azalea indica, but they include a larger
proportion of yellow and salmon tints. They like similar soil to
Rhododendrons. Anthony Koster is a splendid variety.

FLOWERS FOR SUBURBAN GARDENS 387

The Berberises are among the most valuable of all shrubs,
owing to their dense habit, evergreen foliage (although some are
not evergreen), and pretty flowers. The most common of the genus
is aquifolium, which is the same plant as that called by many
nurserymen Mahonia aquifolia; but it is excelled in beauty by
Darwinii and stenophylla, and these two should have the most
prominent positions, aquifolium being reserved for shady, dry spots.
The Darwin Berberis is the most valuable species, because it is
evergreen, is of distinct and handsome growth, and has pretty
orange flowers. It is of neat habit, and does not grow rapidly,
consequently it is an admirable shrub for small gardens. The
beautiful hybrid called stenophylla is perhaps the next best
Berberis. It is a vigorous grower, and produces abundance of
yellow flowers in spring. These plants will grow in most soils,
but we have had some little difficulty with them in poor, shallow
soils over chalk. Such ground needs heavy manuring.

Magnolias are among the most beautiful of all spring-flowering
shrubs. We have mentioned stellata already. It is generally in
bloom in spring. Conspicua is quite as fine, and we have a note
of a splendid plant of this in a London suburb. Like stellata it
has white flowers. Grandiflora, also white-flowered, is a large
and very fine species. The suburbanist cannot afford to overlook
the Magnolias. There is nothing in the least like them among
hardy shrubs. They may be grown in the open or on walls, but
they do not care for cold, exposed, wind-swept places.

Lilacs are great favourites, and every amateur likes to have
one or two bushes in the garden, for the sake of the delicious
fragrance of the large clusters of bloom. With time they will
grow into trees, but they do not move very fast, except in particu-
larly rich soil. They are hardy plants, and will stand a considerable
amount of buffeting. Perhaps the ideal soil for them is a light,
fertile loam, but they will thrive in heavier as well as lighter
land if it is well drained. The common Lilac satisfies most people,

388 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

because it is so fragrant, but there are varieties with finer flowers,
notably Marie Legraye and Michael Buchner, the latter of which
is double.

We mentioned Deutzia gracilis as a suitable plant for growing
in an unheated greenhouse, and hence the impression may have
been gathered that it is hardy. It will certainly pass the winter
out of doors, but weather that would not hurt the plant will often
injure the flowers, and therefore mar the beauty of the shrub just
as effectually as if frost cut the growth. The species crenata
flore pleno is almost equally as beautiful as gracilis, and flowers
rather later, so that it is preferable for the garden. The Deutzias
lose their foliage in autumn like Lilacs. They are, in a word,
deciduous, not evergreen.

The amateur may not have heard of the Weigela, but we can
confidently recommend it as one of the best of the spring-blooming
deciduous shrubs. It is remarkable for its profusion of bloom
and its bright colours. The flowers are not large, but they are
borne in such numbers that the shrubs look a mass of blossom.
The Weigela is not in the least fastidious as to soil. It seems
to do almost equally well on sandy and on clayey land ; anyway,
we have had equal success with it under both conditions. The
varieties Abel Carriere and Eva Rathke' are two of the most
popular. The latter is a great favourite on account of its rich
colour.

Almost every townsman knows Gorse — in fact, it will be so
familiar as to have no garden interest. Who would think of
growing in his garden a plant that covers miles of common ? We
will not suggest that the ordinary Gorse be grown, but we must
certainly put in a word in favour of one or two allied plants,
notably Cytisus Andreanus, a Broom with beautiful flowers of
rich brown and yellow, borne abundantly. Everybody who sees
this charming plant falls in love with it. Like the Gorse, Furze
or Whin, it thrives on sandy land, which has not body enough

FLOWERS FOR SUBURBAN GARDENS 389

for more substantial shrubs. Neither Broom nor Gorse, however,
is partial to chalky soil.

The Mock Orange (Philadelphus) is not remarkable for beauty
of form or colour ; indeed, its habit is rather straggly, and its
flowers have no decided tint — they are of a cloudy white. But
the delicious odour of some of the species (and none is sweeter
than the common one, coronarius, although several are larger)
more than compensates for any want of beauty. We think one
or two Mock Oranges should be grown, but they will not come
into bloom until nearly the end of spring perhaps.

One of the most beautiful of the Spiraeas, namely, arguta, is
an early bloomer, and this most graceful and charming plant
should find a place in all collections of good flowering shrubs.
It is not very fastidious as to soil, but enjoys loam.

In respect of the question of soil, we may say that if any shrub
lover is importing soil in order to improve the natural medium
in his garden, on account of its paucity and want of fertility, he
cannot do better than arrange that the greater part of it shall
be decayed turf. When turves rot down after being stacked for a
few months they make the best soil for the great majority of our
finest shrubs. Practically everything will grow in it. Some leaf-
mould is helpful, but it need not consist of more than a quarter.
In the absence of leaf-mould, road sweepings could be added to
the loam with advantage.

A shrub which thrives in sheltered places out of doors, but
which could hardly be relied upon in cold places, is Choisya ternata.
This is well known to gardeners and botanists, and is making its
way steadily in the favour of amateurs also. One thing in its
favour is that it is an evergreen, and the foliage is bright and
ornamental. The white flowers are borne in great profusion, and
are very pretty, while they are pleasantly scented.

The Laurustinus (Viburnum Tinus of the botanical books) is
one of the cheapest and most common of shrubs, but amateurs

390 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

must not disdain it, for it is an evergreen, is compact in growth,
has fairly ornamental foliage, will grow almost anywhere, and
blooms in winter and spring. There is nothing strikingly beauti-
ful about the flowers, but if cut with foliage attached to the stems
they are by no means bad material for vases in winter. We have
not met the soil yet in which the Laurustinus refuses to grow.

Lovers of Heaths are probably familiar with Erica carnea, and
perhaps with E. mediterranea also. These are early bloomers,
and have a charm of their own. They are not any-soil plants, of
course. They do not care for stiff, damp land. They like a light
sandy soil. Given that, they are beautiful and happy.

Veronicas have a good many admirers. They are not very
early bloomers, but are often in flower before the end of the spring
quarter. They are evergreens — most of them, at all events — and
grow in close bushes. Very few shrubs are more easily pleased in
the way of soil.

Kalmia latifolia is an evergreen with pretty blush flowers which
is growing steadily in popularity, and, indeed, is getting its full
share of the increased favour which flowering shrubs generally are
receiving in these days.

A few shrubs that are not very well known to the general body
of amateurs, but are highly esteemed for their grace and beauty by
the cognoscenti, are Andromeda polifolia, a pretty, pink-flowered
evergreen that thrives best with peat in the soil ; Exochorda
grandiflora, commonly called the Pearl Bush, with charming white
flowers; Halesia tetraptera, the Snowdrop Tree, an exquisite shrub
with lovely white flowers ; Amelanchier canadensis, a deciduous
shrub with white flowers ; and Rubus deliciosus, also deciduous,
and with white blossoms.

The last spring-blooming shrubs that we need mention are two
species of Viburnum, one being Opulus, the Guelder Rose, and
the other plicatum. With all respect to those who elevate the
former into the position of a prime favourite among flowering

FLOWERS FOR SUBURBAN GARDENS 391

shrubs and leave the latter to the gardens of the few, we think
that plicatum is much the more valuable species of the two. It
does not form such perfect balls as the Guelder Rose, but the
individual flowers are much bigger, and are borne in large bunches,
which almost cover the bush. When grown in moist, peaty soil
in a sheltered place, it forms a bush several feet through and high,
heavily laden with flowers, and becomes an object of great beauty.

As we have said, the majority of flowering shrubs are at their
best in spring, but Rhododendrons are not always over when the
summer quarter commences — in fact, they may only be approaching
their best at the end of June in cold districts. There are, too,
several good shrubs that are distinctly summer-blooming. The
Buddleias are prominent among these. They cannot be termed
popular at present, but it is quite certain that they will become so
in due course, now that hardy shrubs are securing so much more
attention than they used to receive. Buddleia variabilis Veitchiana
is a particularly promising variety. It is deciduous. The flowers
are borne in long pyramidal clusters rather like Lilacs, but smaller.

We predict greater popularity for the Catalpa too — a real town
and suburban shrub or small tree, with large and beautiful flowers.
Bignonioides is the species to ask for when ordering. Hydrangea
hortensis is well known as a pot plant, and the variety paniculata
grandiflora is quite as well worth growing in the garden as hortensis
is under glass. It thrives in sheltered places. The varieties of
Althaea frutex (now called by the botanists Hibiscus syriacus) are
handsome dwarf shrubs, blooming in August as a rule, and with
flowers of various colours. They are deciduous. The flowers are
very bright, especially in such varieties as Pompon Rouge, Violet
Clair, and Celeste. There is a white called totus albus. We do
not think that these shrubs are as well known, even to owners of
large gardens, as they deserve to be, as we do not often see them
except in nurseries.

We hardly know if the St. John's Worts are considered good

392 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

enough for representation. They are certainly common, cheap shrubs,
but they are at least as good as Aucubas and such like, as they
produce abundance of yellow flowers. Like Aucubas they are very
useful for planting under trees. One of the best of the St. John's
Worts is Hypericum Moserianum, but Androsaemum, the Sweet
Amber, and calycinum, the Rose of Sharon, are also useful.

The Spiraeas are among the finest of summer-flowering shrubs,
and every amateur should grow a few of the best. It is not all of
the Meadow Sweets that can be fairly classed as shrubs, inasmuch
as they lose their stems as well as their leaves in autumn, and must
therefore be called herbaceous. But some are true shrubs, losing
their leaves in winter, and retaining their stems. Of such are
Douglasii, which has rose-coloured flowers, and is sometimes grown
under the name of Menziesii ; bullata, which has pink flowers ;
canescens, a graceful species with pink or white flowers ; Aitchisoni,
with pale yellow flowers, one of the best ; bella, with red flowers ;
discolor ariaefolia, white, a very useful sort ; Japonica or callosa,
rose (this must not be confounded with the Spiraea Japonica of
bulb dealers, the true name of which is Astilbe Japonica), and
its several varieties, of which Anthony Waterer, crimson, is one
of the best ; and prunifolia and its double variety flore pleno ; but
the last two often bloom in spring.

A shrub that has achieved immense popularity is Romneya
Coulteri, commonly called the Californian Poppy. It produces very
large, white, yellow-centred flowers, and is worthy of special treat-
ment, such as the provision of good soil, a sheltered position, and
winter protection. Some growers do not protect the plant if it is
growing in rich loamy soil, because they find that if the branches
are killed they have only to put some litter over the roots to insure
its throwing up abundance of strong shoots the following spring.
It thus becomes a herbaceous plant.

A delightful shrub, far too little known, is the St. Dabeoc's
Heath (Daboecia polifolia), the flowers of which have a shade all

FLOWERS FOR SUBURBAN GARDENS 393

their own. There is a white variety. This plant (which is some-
times grown under the name of Menziesii polifolia) is an evergreen.
It never grows to a large size, and is in its
most useful stage when it is about eighteen
inches high, for it is densely clothed with
flowers. It enjoys a peaty soil, but will
thrive in loam. It may be expected to be
at its best in August and the early part of
September.

We do not get much autumn bloom
among the shrubs, but we get abundance
of berries, and they are bright and cheerful. PRUNING SHRU«

. . . after flowering, removing bloomed

We get them on the Aucubas, for instance, wood. A shows the bloomed

, -.-^ , i f^. . i c« • J i wood to be removed ; B, B show

on the Dogwoods (Lornus), on the bpindle y0ung shoots that must not be

Tree (Euonymus), on the Pernettya, a

charming little shrub, on the Skimmias, on the Snowberry

(Symphoricarpus), and on the Japanese
Rose (rugosa).

As regards pruning shrubs. Those that
flower on the wood made the previous
year should be pruned after flowering, the
wood that has bloomed being cut away to
make room for new. But those which
flower on the young wood of the current
year may be pruned in spring. See figures.
The suburbanist who has a large
PRUNING SHRUBS garden fairly well out of the town will

in spring for those that flower on perhaps like to have a. selection of orna-

current year's growths. A, A, A,

shoots to be cut out; B, B, B, mental trees, not too large in growth. It

shoots to be retained ; C, C show 111 • v

how to disbud to avoid undue is a pity to fill up valuable space with

crowding of young wood. ... , ._, . ,

large common trees like the Plane and the

Lime, good town trees though they certainly are. The Almonds
are useful because of their accommodating nature and early bloom.

(2.299)

26

394 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

The double scarlet Thorn, the Scotch Laburnum, Pyrus spectabilis,
various Hollies, the Mountain Ash, with its sprays of bright
berries, and Prunus Pissardii (for its purple leaves) are also worth
considering. These trees never attain to very large dimensions ;
at the same time, they have beauty of flower, berry, or foliage to
recommend them. They are thus well suited to owners of small
gardens.

Lovers of the class of trees called Conifers (because they bear
cones, which are woody bracts or compound fruits) may like to
include a few, and we readily agree that they are very useful.
Some are deciduous, others evergreen. A well-known example
of the former class is the Spruce, and of the latter the Cypress
(Cupressus). One of the most useful of the Conifers for a small
garden is Cupressus Lawsoniana, a graceful, hardy, and inexpen-
sive, if somewhat sombre tree, of which there are many varieties,
differing in habit from the type. The Douglas Fir, Welling-
tonia gigantea, the Maidenhair Tree (Ginkgo biloba), and the Cedar
are a few popular Conifers.

CACTI

The term Cactus conveys some sort of meaning to most people
who are interested in plants, just as Orchid does, but it is not
every amateur gardener who could say with confidence what is
or what is not a Cactus or an Orchid.

There are many Cacti, just as there are many Orchids — we
mean different genera, not merely different species or varieties. A
Cereus is nearly as distinct from an Opuntia as a China Aster
is from a Poppy, but both Cereuses and Opuntias are Cacti,
and Asters and Poppies are not. The amateur who sees a plant
without ordinary leaves, but with thick and peculiarly contorted
stems clothed with sharp hairs, bristles, spines, or hooks, will be
fairly safe in setting it down as a Cactus.

FLOWERS FOR SUBURBAN GARDENS 395

The Cacti as native plants are certainly an adaptation to par-
ticular circumstances. They belong to dry countries like Cali-
fornia and Mexico, and accordingly they are given by Nature the
capacity to store up a good deal of water by means of their
thick, fleshy stems, and to hold it by reason of the compara-
tively small evaporating area they possess. An ordinary plant,
with a greater or smaller spread of leaves, gets rid of a great
deal of moisture by evaporation ; but the Cactus could not afford
to do that in its native habitat, and accordingly contents itself
with spines and hooks, some of which are so
strong and sharp as to be capable of inflicting
severe wounds on people who handle them care-
lessly. A curious proof of the moisture-holding
power of some Cacti lies in the fact that when
cuttings of Opuntias are taken they have to be
laid on a dry shelf for a few days to insure
root production. If they were put into damp
soil, and kept close and shaded like the cuttings
of ordinary plants, they would probably rot.

What are the claims of Cacti on the attention
of amateurs ? Certainly considerable. While
some of them are admittedly more quaint
than beautiful, all are interesting, and some are as brilliant as
any flowers that we possess. Where can more glowing flowers
be found than those of the Phyllocactuses, for example? The
Cereuses, too, are showy, likewise the well-known Epiphyllum.

The fact that Cacti are great drought-resisters is a point in
their favour in the case of amateurs who are away from home for
the greater part of their time. The plants do not require very
much water at any time. They do not call thirstily for drinks
two or three times a day. It generally suffices to give water twice
a week in summer, and once or twice a month in winter, when
frequent watering would probably lead to decay.

EPIPHYLLUM— GRAFTING

A, stock, Cereus speciosissi-
mus ; B, graft inserted and
made secure by driving a
thorn of the stock through
as shown at C.

396 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

Hot sun does not take the freshness out of Cacti as it does
out of Ferns, and consequently the question of shading does not
crop up. Here is another advantage for them in the case of the
absentee amateur. He can go away all day without harrowing
fears of his plants being scorched up or flagging from want
of water.

At the first view, a collection of Cacti which does not contain
any plants in bloom is the reverse of inspiriting. There is an
air of torpor, of lifelessness about the plants which tends to

the impression that they are lacking in
interest. Rough, knotted, gnarled, con-
torted, with no cheerful foliage to re-
fresh the eyes of the observer, they
have rather the effect of a museum
— instructive, perhaps, but not entic-
ing. Closer acquaintance teaches better
things. There is interest in observing
the remarkable forms which the plants

PHYLLOCACTUS— CUTTINGS .

assume, and the singular appendages

A, A show suitable cuttings on old plant ; B,

drainage ; C, coarse sand and fine gravel With which they are furnished. In
around base of cutting in pot.

Pilocereus senilis, for instance, we have

a fluted cylinder the crown of which is densely furnished with long
white hairs, in addition to white spines. This covering leads to the
plant being given the popular name of Old Man Cactus. It hardly
ever flowers, but that is of very small moment, in view of the
interest which arises from its venerable aspect. It may anticipate
a question to say that Pilocereus senilis has neither dark nor
flaxen hair when it is young, which gets white with age. It is
woolly white even in its youth. It succeeds in a greenhouse.

Other Cacti possess interest owing to their singular shape, and
so it is that although the number of amateurs who specialise Cacti
is small, the band is a devoted and faithful one.

Some of the Cacti have great beauty to recommend them,

CKRKUS— CUTTINGS

A, plant showing suitable cuttings,
which must be severed as de-
noted by the curved dark line;
B, ample drainage ; C, sand and
fine gravel.

FLOWERS FOR SUBURBAN GARDENS 397

however. Take the Cereuses first of all. They are most brilliant

flowers. Two of the best known species are fulgidus, with scarlet

flowers, and speciosissimus, also with scar-
let flowers. Both are very showy plants. (

Flagelliformis, which produces pink flowers

in spring, is a good plant for growing in

baskets. Grandiflorus and nycticalus, both

of which have white flowers, bloom at

night. Macdonaldiae, which has white flowers

with red sepals, is also a night bloomer.

The Cereuses give no trouble, as they

rarely require repotting, need no water in

winter, and will grow in any light, sunny,

fairly warm house. They like a compost

of sandy loam and broken brick, with sand

and charcoal.

There are many bright plants in the genus Echinocactus, and

Epiphyllums are still more desirable, as they include the bril-
liant species truncatum and its several
varieties. These are plants of greater
luxuriance than many of the Cacti, and
may have some leaf-mould added to the
loam, say a quarter, instead of shat-
tered brick. If kept dry and rested in
winter in a cool house they may be re-
started towards the close of winter, and
will flower splendidly in a window in
early summer. They are propagated by
grafting.

The Mammillarias are an important
genus. They are low and cylindrical,

with many spines. Crassispina, dolichocentra, elongata, and longi-

mamma are three of the principal species. Like most of the

OPUNTIA— CUTTINGS

A shows the right cutting to select ; B,
drainage material in pot ; C, coarse
sand and fine gravel around the base
of the cutting.

398 BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS

Cacti, they thrive in loam, sand, and shattered brick, and need very
little water in winter.

The Opuntias are a large genus, and include species of remark-
able appearance, as well as others of great beauty. The species
leucotricha (or ursina) is so shaggy as to have received the name
of Grizzly Bear Cactus. They will succeed with the same treat-
ment as other kinds.

The last genus which we have space to mention is Phyllo-
cactus, and this is perhaps the most beautiful of all. Very few
species are cultivated, as the florists have provided a number of
beautiful hybrids and varieties, such as Agatha, pink ; albus
superbus, white ; Exquisite, rose ; Jenkinsoni, crimson ; and Niobe,
scarlet. They are easily grown, thriving in loam, leaf-mould, and
sand, needing a light, warm house, moderate watering in summer,
and very little in winter.

INDEX

ACACIAS, 159
Acanthus mollis, 124
Achilleas, 122

millefolium roseum, 124
Achimenes, 159

in pans, 159
Aconites, winter, 29
Aconitum, 124
Acorus calamus, 263
Adonis vernalis, 133
Aerides, 292
Ageratums, 334

cuttings of, 334
Alisma Plantago, 263
Allium neapolitanum, 29
Alstromerias, 29
Alternantheras, 335
Althaea rosea, 83
Alyssum saxatile compactum,

133

sweet, 255
Amaryllis, 159

culture of, 160

propagation of, 160
Anchusa italica, 122
Androsaces, 136
Anemones, 30, 69, 133

for rockeries, 133
Annuals, 244

arrangement of, 249

charms of, 244

for suburban gardens, 362

gathering, 263

half-hardy, 258
indispensable, 259
selections of, 258

hoeing, 253

indispensable, 255

in borders, 246

manures for, 248

rambling, 361

selections of, 254

slugs and, 252

snails and, 252

soil for, 248

sowing, 250

staking, 253

tender, 259
raising, 257
selections of, 260

thinning, 251, 252

uses of, 246

watering, 252, 253

what is an, 245
Antennaria tomentosa, 133
Anthericum Liliastrum, 122
Antirrhinums, 69
Aponogeton distachyon, 262
Aquatic plants, 263
Aquilegias, 70
Arabis, 133
Aralia Sieboldii, 194
Arches, 267

construction of, 268

for Roses, 6

for suburban gardens, 381

plants for, 272

Arches, rustic, 269

triple, 271

uses of, 267

wire, 268

wood for, 270
Ardisia crenulata, 194
Arenaria, 136
Aristolochia Sipho, 360
Armeria cephalotes, 122, 136
Arnebia echioides, 134
Arum Lilies, 30, 160

dividing and repotting, 160

potting, 31

watering, 31
Aspidistras, 192

dividing and repotting, 192
Asters, China, 70, 259

for rockeries, 136

perennial, 70
Aubrietias, 134
Auriculas, 370

Alpine, 372

classes of, 371

culture of, 373

potting, 374

propagating, 374

selections of, 375

soil for, 374

Stage, 372
Azaleas, 160

for suburban gardens, 386

treatment of, 161
Azolla caroliniana, 363

BALSAMS, 161

Bedding plants, tender, 317

Ageratums, 334

Alternantheras, 335

Begonias, tuberous-rooted,

o-an

339
Calceolarias, 329

Cannas, 342

Echeverias, 344

Fuchsias, 345

Gazanias, 337

Heliotrope, 345

Iresines, 336

Lantanas, 337

Lobelias, 332

Mimuluses, 346

Pelargoniums, 317

Petunias, 347

Salvias, 347

Tropaeolums, 339

Verbenas, 338
Beds for seedlings, 98
Begonias, tuberous-rooted, 32

for beds, 33, 339

for borders, 71

for greenhouses, 162

from seeds, 135

Gloire de Lorraine, propagat-
ing, 162

in pots, 34

potting, 162

Rex, 193

selections of, 36

Belladonna Lilies, 36
Berberises for suburban gardens,

387
Berried plants for greenhouses,

194

Bluebells, 54
Bocconia cordata, 124
Boltonia asteroides, 124
Bordeaux mixture, 85
Borders, end view of, 63

error in planting, 115

herbaceous, 62

in suburban gardens, 382

lifting and dividing clumps
in, 77, 109

neglected clumps in, 64

north and south, 63

planting, 66, 67

plants for, 121

preparing, 62

with turf, 65
Bougainyilleas, 163
Bouvardias, 163
Bridal Wreath, the, 171
Budding Roses, 8
Bulbs, 28

Aconites, winter, 29

Allium neapolitanum, 29

Alstromerias, 29

Amaryllis Belladonna, 36

Anemones, 30

arrangement of, in beds, 28

Arum Lilies, 30, 160

Begonias, tuberous-rooted,
32, 162, 339

Belladonna Lilies, 36

Calochortus, 36

Chionodoxa, 37

Convallaria, 52

Crinums, 37

Crocuses, 38

Crown Imperials, 38

Daffodils and Narcissi, 39

Dog's Tooth Violets, 44

Erythroniurns, 44

for suburban gardens, 363

Fritillaria Imperialis, 38

Galtonia candicans, 44

Gladioli, 44

Guernsey Lilies, 44

Hyacinths, 45

Hyacinthus candicans, 44

in bowls, 42

in boxes, 41

in glasses, 42

in grass, 41

Ixias, 47

Lach en alias, 48

Leucojums, 48

Liliums, 48
potting, 49
top-dressing, 49

Lily of the Valley, 5«

Muscaris, 47

Narcissi, 39

Nerine Sarniensis, 36

planting, 30, 40

Bulbs, plunging, 46
potting, 45
Ranunculus, 53
Scillas, 54
Tigridias, 54
Tuberoses, 55
potting, 45
Tulips, 55

CACTI, 394

Cereuses, 397

characteristics of, 394

Epiphyllums, 397

Mammillarias, 397

Old Man Cactus, the, 396

Opuntia, 398

Phyllocactus, 398

Pilocereus, 396

utility of, 396
Caladiums, 164
Calceolarias for bedding, 329

for greenhouses, 164

pinching, 331

planting, 331

propagation, 331

selections of, 332
Calla aethiopica, 30, 160
Calochortus, 36
Caltha palustris, 363
Camellias, 165

hardiness of, 165

selection of, 165
Campanula isophylla alba, 199
Campanulas, 71

for greenhouses, 166

for rockeries, 1 36
Candytufts, annual, 255

for rockeries, 135
Cannas, 72

for bedding, 342

for greenhouses, 166

rootstock and growing crown,

Canterbury Bells, 72
Carnations, 201
American, 211
derivation of name, 202
development of, 204
garden, 205

disbudding, 206

enemies of, 207

fungoid diseases of, 208

propagating, 205
history of, 203
in pots, 209

disbudding, 209

soil for, 209
layering, 206
Malmaison, 210
Marguerite, from seeds, 205
Perpetual or Tree, 210
planting, 206
popularity of, 201
potting, 209
selections of, 204
supporting, 206
Catchfly, 138

899

400

INDEX

Cattleyas, 285
culture of, 285
imported, 285
potting, 286
Ceanothuses, 360
Centaurea montana, 122
Centranthus ruber, 124
Cerastiums, 134
Cereus, cuttings of, 397
Cheiranthus MarshaUii, 122
Cherry Pie for greenhouses,

176

Chionodoxas, 37
Christmas Roses, 73
Chrysanthemums, 74, 293
annual, 255
bud taking, 306
bush plants, 309
crocking pots for, 302
crown bud, 307
culture of, 297
cutting back, 299
cutting down, 309
cuttings of, 298, 299
disbudding, 303
enemies of, 313
feeding, 304

for gardens, 74, 311, 376
for town gardens, 295
hardiness of, 296
history of, 293
housing, 304
in spring, 301
May cuttings, 310
mildew in, 313
modern, 294
potting, 300, 301
propagating, 297
repotting, 301
rust in, 303
sections of, 294
selections of, 314

Anemone flowered, 316
Decorative, 315
Garden, 315, 316
Incurved, 315
Japanese, 314
Pompon, 316
Reflexed, 316
Single, 316
soil for, 302
staking, 302, 303
stopping for bush, 310
terminal buds, 306
the first break, 305
watering, 304
Cinerarias, 166
culture of, 167
raising from seeds, 167
Clarkias, 255
Clematis, cutting down, 277

pruning, 277
Clivias, 167
Colchicums, 138
Coleuses, 167
Columbines, 70
Conservatories, 139
Convallaria majalis, 52
Convolvuluses, 137
Coreopsis, 124
Coronilla varia, 137
Corydalis lutea, 122
Crinums, 37
Crocuses, 38

for rockeries, 134, 138
Crown Imperials, 38
Cuttings, propagation by, 84
Cyclamens, for greenhouses

1 68

for rockeries, 134, 137, 138
Cydonia Japonica, 360
Cypripediums, 287
culture of, 288
for rockeries, 137
Cytisuses, 169

DAFFODILS, 39

cheap, 43

classification of, 39

for greenhouses, 169

in moss fibre, 42

origin of name of, 39

planting, 41

potting, 42

selections of, 42
Dahlias, 212

characteristics of, 213

classes of, 217

disbudding, 225

earwigs and, 225

evolution of, 216

for suburban gardens, 377

in autumn, 226

introduction of, 215

planting, 224

popularity of, 212

pronunciation of name,
215

propagating, 222, 223, 224

protection of blooms, 226

selections of, 220
Cactus, 220
decorative, 221
Fancy, 220
Paeony-flowered, 222
Pompon, 220
Pompon Cactus, 221
Show, 220
Single, 221
Single Cactus, 221
Star, 222

slugs and, 225

soil for, 223

storing, 226

training, 224
Daisies, Michaelmas, 70, 92

Ox-eye, 92

Pyrenean, 92
Delphiniums, 75

cutting down, 76

nudicaule, 122

selection of, 76
Dendrobiums, 288

culture of, 288
Deutzias, 169

gracilis, 288
Dianthuses for rockeries, 134,

137

Dicentra spectabilis, 122
Dictamnus albus, 124
Dielytra spectabilis, 122
Digitalis, 78
Dipladenias, 170
Disbudding to obtain large

blooms, 93
Dodecatheons for rockeries, 134

meadia, 122
Dog's Tooth Violets, 44

for rockeries, 134
Doronicums, 76
Dutchman's Pipe, 360

ECHEVERIAS, 344

propagating, 344, 345
Echinops Ritro, 124
Edelweiss, the, 135
Epilobium angustifplium, 124
Epiphyllums, grafting, 395
Eranthis hyemalis, 29
Eremurus, 124
Ericas, 170

culture of, 170

propagation of, 170
Erigerons, 122
Erinus alpinus, 134
Eryngiums, 124
Erythroniums, 44

for rockeries, 134
Eschscholtzias, 255
Eucharis, 170
Evening Primroses, 177

?ATSIA Japonica, 194
fences, aspects of, 276

beautifying, 274

planting, 277

planting near, 276

plants for, 277

pruning plants on, 277

rustic, 279

soil near, 276
Ferns for rooms and windows,
190

culture of, 191

Maidenhair, dividing and re-
potting, 191

selections of, 191
Ficus elastica, 193

propagating, 193
Flowers, cut, in rooms, 198

for suburban gardens. See
Suburban Gardens

protecting from weather, 74
Forget-me-nots, 77

for rockeries, 135
Foxgloves, 78
Frames, 147

uses of, 147
Francoa ramosa, 170
Freesias, 44, 171

after flowering, 44

potting, 44
Fritillarias, Imperials, 38

meleagris, 38
Fuchsias, 171

culture of, 171

for bedding, 345

pinching, 172

propagation of, 172

selections of, 172

wintering, 172
Fungoid pests in the green-
house, 158
Funkias, 122

GAILLARDIAS, 79, 259
Galegas, 124
Galtonia candicans, 44
Gardenias, 173

Gardens, suburban. See Subur-
ban gardens
Gazanias, 237
Genistas, 169
Gentians, 122

for rockeries, 134
Geraniums, 122

for rockeries, 137

pratense, 124

Zonal. See Pelargonium,

Zonal

Geums, 122
Gillenia trifoliata, 122
Gladioli, 44

for greenhouses, 175

for herbaceous borders, 79

selections of, 83
Glory of the Snow, 37
Gloxinias, 175
Godetias, 255
Grass, from seeds, 357

planting bulbs in, 41
Greenhouses and conservatories,

139

adjuncts to, 147
advantages of, 140
cost of, 142
feeding plants, 156
fitting up, 144
fuel for, 150
fungoid pests in, 158
glazing, 148
heating, 148
insect enemies in, 156
plants for, 159
pleasures in, 139
pots and potting, 152
soil mixtures for, 150

reenhouses and conservatories,

sowing seeds, 153
striking cuttings, 153
temperatures of, 146
tenants' fixtures, 143
ventilating, 155
watering plants in, 155
"uelder Rose, the, 390

uernsey Lilies, 36
Gynerium argenteum, 125

HEATHS. See Erica
Heating glass structures, 148
Helenium pumilum, 122
Helianthemums, 137
Helianthus. See Sunflower
Heliotropes, for bedding, 345

for greenhouses, 176

propagating, 346
Hellebores, 73
Hemerocallis, 122

flay a, 124
Hepaticas, 134
Herbaceous plants, 61

arrangement of, 63

autumn and winter flowering,
69

borders for, 62

end view of, 63

error in planting, 115

grouping, 66

lifting and dividing clumps
in, 77, 109

neglected clumps in, 64

north and south, 63

planting, 65, 66, 67

preparing, 62

selections of, 69, 122, 124,
125

soil for, 63

space for, 64

spring flowering, 68

summer flowering, 68

with turf, 65
Heuchera sanguinea, 123
Hippeastrums, 159

culture of, 160

propagation of, 160
Hollyhocks, 83

raising, 84

the fungus of, 83
Honeysuckles, 360
Hottonia palustris, 262
Houseleeks, 138
Hyacinths, 45

Feather, 47

Grape, 47

in glasses, 46

in pots, 46

Musk, 47

planting, 45, 46

potting, 45

selections of, 47
Hyacinthus candicans, 44
Hydrangeas, 176
Hypericums, 123

IBERISES, 135
Imantophyllums, 167
Incarvillia Delavayi, 123
India-rubber Plant, the, i(

propagating, 193
Insects in greenhouses,
Inula glandulosa, 123
Iresines, 336
Irises, 47

bulbous, 89

cushion, 88

English, 87, 380

for herbaceous borders, 85

for rockeries, 135, 138

for suburban gardens, 378

German, 87, 379
dividing, 379

Japanese, 86, 88

INDEX

Irises, laevigata (Kaempferi), 86

Pseudacorus, 263

Spanish, 87, 380

variety in, 86

Ivy for suburban gardens, 359
Ixias, 47

JASMINES for greenhouses, 126
for suburban gardens, 360

KERRIA, double, 360
Kniphofias, 89

LACHENALIAS, 48
Lantanas, 337

propagating, 337
Lapageria, 177
Larkspurs, perennial, 75
Lattice leaf plant, 263
Laurustinus, the, 389
Lavateras, 256
Lawn from seeds, 357
Lenten Roses, 73
Leontopodium alpinum, 135
Leopard's Bane, 76
Leucojums, 48
Lilacs for greenhouses, 177

for suburban gardens, 387

treatment of, 178
Liliums, 48

enemies of, 52

planting, 50

potting, 49

propagation of, 51

selections of, 50, 52

top-dressing, 49
Lily of the Valley, 52

forcing, 52

planting, 53
Limnanthemum nymphoides,

263

Lin aria alpina, 137
Linums, 135

Lithospermum p rostra turn, 137
Lobelias, 123

for bedding, 332

propagation of, 333

stock plant, 333
Love-in-a-Mist, 256
Lupins, 91

Tree, 91
Lychnis, 123, 124

MAGNOLIAS for suburban gar-
dens, 387
Marigolds, 259
Mariposa Lilies, 36
Matthiola bicornis, 256
Meconopsis cambricum, 123
Menyanthes trifoliata, 262
Merodon equestris, 42
Michaelmas Daisies, 70, 92

for rockeries, 136
Mignonette for greenhouses, 178

in pots, 259
Mildew in Roses, 27
-_Miltonias, 290
Mimuluses, 346
Mock Orange, the, 389
Monarda didyma, 123
Muscaris, 47
Musk, 178
Myosotis, 77

for rockeries, 135
Myrtles, 178

NARCISSI, 39
cheap, 42

classification of, 39
for rockeries, 135
in boxes, 241
in moss fibre, 42
planting, 41
potting, 42
selections of, 42
the fly. 42

Nasturtiums, 256
Nelumbium, the, 253
Neriums, 179
Nicotianas, 259
Nigella, 256

Night-scented stock, 256
Nuphar luteum, 262
Nymphaeas, 262

culture of, 262

in summer, 264

in tubs, 264

planting, 263

ODONTOGLOSSUMS, 289

culture of, 290
Oenotheras, 77
Oleanders, 179
Omphalodes verna, 135
Opuntias, propagating, 397
Oranges, 179
Orchids, 282

Aerides, 292

basket for, 292

British, 282

Cattleyas, 285

Cypripediums, 287

Dendrobiums, 288

houses for, 283

imported, 285

Miltonias, 290

Odontoglossums, 289

pan for, 289

Phalaenopsis, 292

popular, 284

potting, 287

prices of, 283

Saccolabiums, 292

temperatures for, 283

Vandas, 292
Ornithogalums, 53
Orobus aurantius, 123

yernus, 135
Ourisia coccinea, 123
Ouvirandra fenestralis, 263
Oxalis floribunda, 135
Ox-eye Daisies, 92

PAEONIES, 93

herbaceous, 94

propagation of, 96

selections of, 96, 97

soil for, 95

Tree, 95
Palms, 189

management of, 189

potting, 190

selection of, 189
Pampas Grass, 125
Pancratium fra grans, 179
Pansies, 97

for suburban gardens, 378

planting, 98

propagation of, 98

selections of, 99

soil for, 98

tufted. See Viola
Papavers, 102

for rockeries, 137

nudicaule, 104

orientale, 103

umbrosum, 104
Parlour Fig, the, 194
Parlour Palm, the, 192
Parnassia palustris, 263
Pelargoniums, Ivy-leaved, 327

propagation of, 328

selection of, 329

Show and Fancy, cutting
back and starting, 174

Zonal, 173, 317
bedding out, 323
cuttings, 324, 325
cuttings in boxes, 322
pinching for winter flower-
ing, 322

Pelargoniums, Zonal, propagat

ing, 174

for bedding, 317
flowering, 325
foliage, 326
propagation, 324
watering, 325
for winter flowering, 174
popularity of, 174
propagation of, 174
selections of, 175
utility of, 173
Pentstemons, 104

development of, 104
propagation of, 105
soil for, 1 06
Pergolas, 267

construction of, 270, 271

272

for suburban gardens, 381
plants for, 272
wood for, 270
Petunias for bedding, 347

for greenhouses, 180
Phalaenopsis, 292
Phloxes, 100

annual, 101, 259
for grouping, 100
for rockeries, 135
perennial, 101
selections of, 102
Phyllocactus, propagating, 396
Physalis, 123
Pillars, 267

plants for, 272
training plants on, 145
Pits, uses of, 147
Plants, aquatic, 263
bedding, 317
for conservatories, 139
for greenhouses, 139
for hothouses, 139
for suburban gardens, 361
herbaceous, 61

arrangement of, 63
autumn and winter flower-
ing, 69

borders for, 62
grouping, 66
planting, 65
selections of, 69, 122, 124,

125

soil for, 63
space for, 64
spring flowering, 68
summer flowering, 68
Rockery, 126
staking, 100
vase, 197
water, 263

window and room, 186
Plumbago, 180
Poinsettias, 180
Polemonium caeruleum, 123
Polyanthuses. See Primroses
Polygonums, 125
Poppies, 102
Eastern, 103
for rockeries, 137
Iceland, 104
oriental, 103
Shirley, 103, 256
transplanting, 102
umbrosum, 104
variety in, 102
Potentillas, 123
Primroses and Polyanthuses,

1 06

distinctions, 107
propagation, 108
Primulas, Chinese, 180
for rockeries, 135, 137
Japonica, 123, 263
Pyracantha, the, 360
Pyrenean Daisies, 92

401

Pyrcthrums, 109

selections of, no

soil for, no
Pyrus Japonica, 360

QUINCE, Japanese, 360

RAMBLERS for suburban gar

dens, 361
Ranunculuses, 53

acpnitifolius plenus, 133

soil and planting, 54
Red-hot pokers, 89
Rhododendrons for suburban

gardens, 385
Richardia acthiopica, 30, 160,

263
Rockeries, 126

arrangement of stone*, 127,
130

as path edgings, 133

autumn and winter plants
for, 138

charms of, 128

construction of, 126, 127

cost of, 127

formation of pockets, 130

ground plan, 128

maintenance of, 129

planting, 131

section, 129

soil for, 132

spring plants for, 133

stone for, 129

summer plants for, 136
Romneya Coulteri, 125
Room and Window Plants,
186

benefits of, 187

berried, 194

conditions of growth, 186

flowering, 194

foliage, 187

ventilation, 188

watering, 188
Roses, i

arches for, 2, 6

Ayrshire, 23

Banksian, 23

beds of, 7

budding, 7, 8

China, 368

Christmas, 73

Climbing hybrid, 25
selections of, 25, 369

Climbing Polyantha, 24
selection of, 24, 368

Climbing Tea-scented, 26

cuttings of, 9, ii

derivations, 2

disbudding, 14

evergreen climbers, 24

for arches, pergolas, and pil-
lars, 12

for beds, 12

for suburban gardens, 363

for walls, 12

Hybrid Perpetual, 12,

364

fragrant, 16

selections, 15
Hybrid Teas, 20

characteristics of, 21

evolution of, 20

selections of, 21, 366
in borders under glass, 22
in pots, 26

pruning, 27

select varieties for, 27

soil for, 27

temperatures for, 27
Japanese, 367
Lenten, 73
Marechal Niel, 22
mildew on, 27

402

INDEX

Roses, Noisettes, 22

Marechal Niel, 22

selections of, 22

W. A. Richardson, 23
Penzance Sweet Briers, 23

selections of, 23
pergolas of, 2
pillars of, 2
planting, 7, 9
poetry of, 2
pruning, 9

climbers with long canes,
ii

climbers with much side
wood, ii

dwarfs, 10

standards, 10
pruning bush, 10

climbing, 10

standard, 10
sections, 2
single, 25, 367
soil for, 9
Tea-scented, 16

floriferousness of, 17

for cutting, 17

selections of, 19, 365

winter protection for, 18
trailing, for banks, 26
Rudbeckias, 125

SACCOLABIUMS, 292
Sagittaria sagittifolia, 236
Salvias for bedding, 347

for greenhouses, 181
Sanguinaria canadensis, 123
Saxifragas, 123

for rockeries, 135, 137
Scabious, 123
Schizanthus, 182
Scillas, 84
Sedums, 137
Seedlings, beds for, 98

planting out, 72
Seeds, sowing in pans, 70
Sempervivums, 138
Senecio pulcher, 123
Shrubs for suburban gardens,
383

pruning, 393
Silenes, 138
Snapdragons, 69
Snowdrops for rockeries, 138
Snowflakes, 38
Soil mixtures for greenhouse

plants, 150
Solanums for greenhouses, 182

for rooms, 194

Solidago speciosa, 125
Sparmannia africana, 183
Spiraeas, 123

filipendula, 124

Japonica, 183

planting, 183

ulmaria, 125
Spraying, Bordeaux mixture for,

85

Staking plants, 100
Statices, 123
Stephanotis, 184
Sternbergia lutea, 138
Stocks, in

for greenhouses, 184

Night-scented, 256

raising, in

Ten-week, 112, 259
Stonecrops, 137
Stratiotes aloides, 262
Streptocarpus, 185
Stumps, covering, 267
Suburban gardens, 349

annuals for, 362

arches in, 355, 381

Auriculas for, 370

bulbs for, 363

Carnations for, 369

Chrysanthemums for, 376

Dahlias for, 377

failures in, 351

fruit in, 352

grass plots in, 356

greenhouses in, 354

herbaceous borders in, 382

herbaceous plants for, 361

Irises for, 378

Pansies for, 378

pergolas in, 381

planning, 352

plans of, 352, 353, 354

pleasures of, 349

rockeries in, 352

Roses for, 363
selections of, 364

shrubs in, 355, 383

success in, 350

Sweet Peas for, 376

vegetables in, 351

Violas for, 378

walls and fences in, 359

plants for, 359
Sunflowers, 114

culture of, 115

selections of, 115
5un Roses, 137
Sweet Peas, 227

arrangement of, 239

Sweet Peas, colours of, 231
cuttings of, 232
development of, 229
earthing, 238
enemies of, 230
fertilisation of, 228
for suburban gardens, 376
introduction of, 227
manures for, 236
mildew in, 241
persistency of, 238
planting out, 237
seed sowing, 231
selections of, 242
situation for, 234
slugs and, 237
soil for, 234
sowing in clumps, 233

in drills, 233

in pots, 236
sticking, 238
waved standard varieties,

229

Sweet Williams, 116
propagation, 116
soil for, 117

THALICTRUM anemonoides, 123
Thyme for rockeries, 138
Tiarella cordifolia, 123
Tigridias (Tiger Flowers), 54
Tobacco plants, 259
Torch Lilies, 89
Torenias, 185

Tradescantia virginica, 123
Trees for suburban gardens,

393

Trillium grandiflorum, 123
Triteleia uniflora, 136
Tritomas, 89
Trollius, 123
Tropaeolums, 339
Tuberoses, potting, 55
Tulips, 55

choosing bulbs, 56

classification of, 55

florists', 60

for herbaceous borders, 117

in pots, 57

Parrot, 60

period of flowering, 57

planting, 57

selections of, 59

soil for, 56

species of, 58

VANDAS, 292

Vases, plants for, 197

Verbascums, 125

Verbenas, 338

Veronica chamaedrys, 136

for rockeries, 138

longifolia subsessiUis, 125
Violas, 118

development of, 118

for suburban gardens,
378

propagation of, 119

selections of, 120

soil for, 119
Virginian Creeper, 359

WALLFLOWERS, 120

selections of, 121

soil for, 121
Walls, 274

aspects of, 276

beautifying, 274

planting near, 276, 277

plants for, 277
pruning, 277

pockets on, 281

soil near, 276
Water Hawthorn, the, 262
Water Lilies, 263

in tubs, 264

planting, 265

ponds for, 265
Water Plants, 263

charms of, 263

culture of, 264

in summer, 264

in tubs, 264

pools for, 265

water for, 263
Water Soldier, the, 262
Weigelas for suburban gardens,

388
Window and room plants, 186

benefits of, 187

berried, 194

conditions of growth, 188

flowering, 194

foliage, 189

ventilation, 188

watering, 188
Window-boxes, 199

care of, 199

plants for, 200
Winter Cherry, the, 182
Winter Aconites, 29
Wistaria, pruning, 280

YUCCA angustifolia, 125
ZINNIAS, 259

THE END

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