RYDER & SON ARE THE SOLE PROPRIETORS OP THE Most Remarkable Seed Business in the World. RYDERS offer all Seeds in Penny Packets, from Orchids to Mustard and Cress. RYDERS sell larger packets than Penny ones, but if a Pennyworth is enough, why buy more? RYDERS' P. P. System is economical, convenient, and sound, and is as great a success as the Penny Post. RYDERS have a world-wide connection, requiring One Million Seed Catalogues annually. RYDERS supply many of the best gardens at home and abroad with all their Seeds. RYDERS offer a much larger number of varieties than ordinary Seed Merchants, and hold an enormous stock to select from. Please Note. — It is impossible to buy better Seeds than we offer. You may pay 2/6 a packet — the quantity will be greater, but the quality cannot be any better. High quality is our first consideration. WARNING. RYDERS have absolutely no connection with any other firm, have no agents, and do not supply the trade ; their seeds can only be obtained by writing to them direct at St. Albans. Catalogues are sent by return, post free, to any address In the world. RYDER & SON, SEED SPECIALISTS, ST. ALBANS, England. Barter ur climate unprotected except in the summer, when they may be plunged with 'heir pots in borders with good effect. Of Acacias there is a great variety ; all may be grown readily from seed, which is best imported, and from cuttings in pots of very Hne mould, set in a hot-bed. Among the most beautiful varieties are Acacia l albicans, with fine silver foliage, about 5 ft. high ; A. balsameay yellow, about 6 ft. high; A. Drummondi) yellow, 10 ft. high ; A. Ixio- phylla^ golden yellow, 2 ft.; A. odoratissima, white, with fine long pendent blossoms, very fragrant ; A. spinosa^ rose-coloured and white. The roots of the Acacia are said to send forth a noxious smell, which renders them unpleasant and unhealthy in confined houses. Culture. — Acacias are propagated from cuttings set in sand and peat, and taken from half-ripened wood and put in with a 1 In order to save space and the constant repe- tition of the generic name, the genus or tribe to which all the plants belong is simply denoted by the capital letter of the word. Thus, in the present article, the common name Acacia is expressed by the capital letter A., and this mode of expression is continued throughout the work. This mode of abbre- viation is followed in all works on gardening, and the reader is requested to note this. The rule also prevails in names of varieties, but the letter distinc- tive of the genus is frequently omitted, as in the preceding article, Abutiion. bed in May, after pruning the trees, &c. They require a mild temperature, and must be watered freely. They may also be raised from seeds sown when ripe in pans, about | inch deep, and when grown in this way will require a gentle bottom heat. Plants must be well drained and kept well watered. Temperature in winter should not fall lower than 40°. Acan'thus, or Bear's Breech (nat. ord. Acanthacese). Herbaceous perennials, attractive for the beauty of their foliage ; natives of Southern Europe. The most common varieties are A. mollis and A. Spinosus. From the former of these the original idea of the ACANTHUS, OR BEAK'S BREECH. capita! of the Corinthian order of architec- ture is said to have been derived. Culture. — All the sorts grow readily from seed, or they may be increased by dividing the roots. They require a light but rich garden soil and plenty of room. Ac'arus. See Red Spider. Achime'nes (nat. ord. Gesneracese). A genus of truly splendid plants, suitable either for the sitting-room, greenhouse, 01 stove, and especially adapted for hanging- ACHIMENES. AGAPANTHUS. baskets ; they combine great individual beauty with a variety of rich and brilliant colours rarely to be met with. Some of them are remarkable for their peculiar markings, others for their large handsome flowers, while all are so exceedingly effec- tive as amply to recompense the amateur for his care and attention, which are trifling compared with what some plants of far inferior beauty require. The hybi id varie- ties are very numerous, and the blooms are white, orange, rose, crimson, scarlet, blue, and purple, some being diverse in colour, and beautifully marked and veined. The character of the flower will be best under- stood from the accompanying illustration. ACHIMENES, VARIETIES OF. For a detailed list of varieties readers are referred to the catalogues of the growers and tc the nearest nurserymen and florists in their respective districts. To give them here would take up far too much space. Culture. — Use a compost of peat, loam, and leaf-soil ; or leaf-mould, loam, and silver-sand, and secure good drainage. Plant five to seven tubers in a five or six-inch pot, with their growing ends inclining towards the centre, and their root ends towards the circumference of the pot, and cover them with about an inch of the compost. While growing, they should be well supplied with liquid manure ; start them when convenient in heat, and when an inch and a half high they may be removed to the greenhouse. To keep up a succession, commence starting them in heat in January ; and as one lot is taken out another should be put in, till May ; do not neglect tying up the stems, or they will fall down and get injured. Planted in pans or baskets and suspended, they will become objects of the greatest interest, falling gracefully over the sides, and literally covering the pot or basket with their truly magnificent flowers. Ac'onite (««'• ord. Ranunculacese). The generic name of a great variety of hardy herbaceous plants grown as peren- nials in gardens and on the verge of shrubberies. They grow from three to five feet in height, and produce long spikes of helmet-shaped flowers, mostly blue in colour, but also white and purple, and even yellow in some varieties. The most common are Aconitum Napellus^ or Monk's-hood, and Aconitum lupicidum, or Wolfsbane. The former is tuberous- rooted, and the latter fibrous-rooted. Culture. — Division of the roots, and by seeds. Adian'tum Capillis Veneris. •*« Maidenhair Fern, p. 565. Agapan'thllS (not. ord. Liliaceae). An African lily blooming in August, combining graceful foliage with large handsome heads of blossom. In flower- beds or masses, the blue variety, Agapanthus umbellatus, is lovely ; planted in a strong rich soil, it produces a splendid effect, and when mixed with gladioli, either of the Ramosus or Gandavensis sections, the effect is unique. Agafanthus umbellaius albidus, a white variety, forms a good companion and excellent contrast to the preceding. j There are others, but these are all that need be mentioned here. Culture. — A nine-inch pot will be ample AGAVE. ALLEY. for a strong plant, but a large pot or tub is required for several plants ; and this is the most effective and more usual way of grow- ing the Agapanthus. Use a strong rich oam, and during the summer months give ibundance of water, and liquid manure lwice a week. In winter protect from severe frost, and water sparingly. Aga've (not. ord. Amaryllidacese). A plant consisting of a number of broad, fleshy leaves, with thorns protruding from the edges, throwing up from the centre a long flower spike, from which proceed branchlets sustaining flowers white and tinted with a yellowish -green colour. The Agave is usually supposed to live a hundred years before it flowers, but this is not the case. It is chiefly used for the ornamenta- tion of terraces when placed in tubs or very large pots, and it is equally effective for this purpose in the greenhouse. There are many varieties, but the best known is the Agave Americana, or American Aloe, which reaches a height of twenty feet, and even more when flowering. The word "agave," it may be said, is pronounced ag-a'-ve. Culture. — It requires a rich, loamy soil, mixed with river sand, and some peat and leaf-mould. Plenty of brick rubbish should be placed at the bottom of the tub or pot to supply means of thorough drainage. Propagated by suckers thrown off from the parent plant. Agaves should be freely watered in summer. Agera'tum (nat. ord. Composite). Useful, half-hardy annuals. The shades are blue, white, and red. The seed should be sown in a warm border in a light soil in April or May. There are many "species of Ageratum, but the best known is Ageratum Mexicanum, from which many varieties have been produced, the most noticeable being, perhaps, "Swanley Blue," and Cupid," both blue; "SnowH ike," white; AGERATUM MEX1CANUM. land "Queen," with flowers of a pretty ! livery grey. Allan 'thus (nat. ord. Xanthoxylaceae). A noble tree, resembling a gigantic stag's horn sumach, invaluable for avenues, groves, shrubberies, or wherever trees of stately growtkand large ornamental foliage are required. Succeeds in any poor shal- low soil. The leaves are largely used in France as food for silkworms. It is some- times called the " Tree of Heaven," which is, indeed, the meaning of Ailanthus. (Hardy.) Alexan'ders. (Smyrnium olusatrum). This herb, sometimes called Alisander, was once much cultivated in the same way as celery, and used for the same purpose. Sow on a light rich soil during April and May in drills about 2 ft. 6 in. apart. Thin out the plants when large enough, leaving about I ft. between those allowed to re- main. When about I ft. in height earth up, so as to blanch like celery. Alley. A term applied to narrow walks of turf or gravel parallel to the main walks and dividing the parts of the kitchen garden ALLOTMENT GARDENS. into compartments varying from 1 8 in. to 24 in. in width. It is also applied to small paths from 9 in. to 12 in. wide, separating beds one from another. In this case the path thus called is only temporary. Allotment Gardens. It would be beyond the purpose of this work to point out the many and great benefits which result from the allotment of a small portion of land for a garden to every cottage. These are so obvious that they may be taken for granted here, and the only thing needful is to show how such allotments may be managed to the best advantage. Many cottages, especially in small agricultural parishes, have land enough attached to them for the purpose of forming a garden which shall supply the wants of the family. The case, however, is different with cottages situated in popu- lous villages and on the outskirts of large towns. Here, for the most part, a rod or two of land in front, and the same quantity for a yard at the back — the cottages being generally built in rows — is all that can be attached to each, and, under such circum- stances, the want of a garden is well sup- plied by the allotment system. The field that is selected and set apart for garden allotments should, as a matter of course, be situated as near as possible to the cottages for which they are required, and it should have the convenience of a supply of soft water either from a pond or running stream. The rent at which allot- ments are let must be determined by the value of land in the neighbourhood. It should include all rates, taxes, and other outgoings of a like nature, and may be fixed somewhat higher than the rent of ordinary farm-land, but not so high as market-garden ground. The extent of each allotment should be not less than a quarter of an acre, nor more than half an acre. Little benefit can be derived from ; ALLOTMENT GARDENS. less than the former quantity, and if hail an acre be exceeded, there is great danger that the cottager will become unsettled as a day-labourer or mechanic, while his occu- pation will not be large enough to make him either a farmer or market-gardener. Spade husbandry must be insisted upon, and each allotment, to all intents and pur- poses, be treated as a cottage-garden. In an allotment of half an acre it is quite allowable that one-fourth may be cultivated in wheat or some other cereal, and one- fourth in potatoes each year, or half in wheat and half in potatoes in alternate years ; but certainly, in all cases, one quarter of an acre should be stocked with what are properly called garden vegetables. The same portion of land should not be cropped with wheat and potatoes in con- tinual succession, but after two years a change should be made with the other portion which has been cropped with garden produce. Indeed, the soil must naturally be very good, and also be well done by, to admit of such a close succes- sion of wheat and potatoes. Barley or rye may, with advantage, be made now and then a substitute for wheat, and mangold wurzel will at times profitably take the place of potatoes ; some provision, of course, having been made for a sufficient quantity of these for the use of the family. In agricultural parishes, the growing of seeds — turnip, mangold wurzel, carrots, and parsnip seeds — either on a portion of the allotment ground, or, what is better, on the land attached to a cottage, is found profitable ; especially where there are chil- dren who can assist in keeping off the birds while the seed is ripening. Seed-growing will make a good change with wheat and potatoes ; but it should not be encouraged, except in cases where the allotment ex- ceeds the quarter of an acre. The laying-out and division of a field into its proper allotments is a matter oi ALLOTMENT GARDENS. ALLOTMENT GARDENS. taste, and must be regulated by the shape of the enclosure. A square field of ten or more acres may be divided by two walks cutting each other in the centre at right angles ; and another walk may be made along each side, and at such a distance from the hedge or enclosure as the size of the field may suggest. These walks, if thought desirable, can be made broad enough for a small cart to pass along. Beyond these, all that is required would be alleys, or small walks between the different allotments ; these last may be measured into the allotments, half to each occupier; but the larger and more impor- tant walks should not be measured in. If the field be enclosed with a bank and hedge, these should be kept in order at the joint expense or labour of the different occupiers of the land ; and so also should the garden pump, if, from the absence of any supply of soft water, it should be necessary to sink a well. Dwarf apples and pears, &c., and all bush fruit should be considered admissible; but no high trees should be allowed, as they may do harm to a neighbouring allotment. Nor should any occupier be allowed to erect a greenhouse or shed, except under especial permission. Ordinary garden-frames can, of course, be used, wherever they are desired. The land taken for allotment gardens, previous to being let to the dif- ferent tenants, should be drained, and pro- per water-courses provided. Many persons recommend the building of a large shed for garden-tools, &c., for the joint occupation Oi" the tenants ; but, as far as general ex- perience goes, this is better avoided. Much ill-feeling »s often engendered among the tenants by tnc taking of each other's implements ; and where property is left upon the ground in this unprotected state, an opening is g;iven to petty thieving. It can be no great difficulty for a man, when- ever he has an h' ur or two to spend in his garden, to take with him on his barrow, his spade, rake, and hoe, or whatever he may require ; and if the allotment be too far off for him to carry these things to and fro, he is better without it. Very strict attention should be given to the payment of rent. The land should be let from Michaelmas to Michaelmas, and the rent paid half-yearly— the first half-year's rent to be paid on account at Midsummer, and the remaining half at the year's end. No cottager, except of good moral, character, should be accepted as a tenant. Proper cultivation, neatness, and order should be strictly enforced, and, where these are not attended to, the tenant should have notice to quit : a three months' notice, expiring at Michaelmas, is the fairest arrangement for all parties. Allotment gardens are best managed under direction of a small com- mittee. A piece of glebe land, if such lie convenient, is perhaps the best that can be occupied for the purpose, and the clergy- man of the parish should be chairman of the committee ? These general observations, which are the result of many years', experience, are made instead of giving copies of rules which are actually of no use : for all rules, though they embody the principles laid down above, must be adapted to their own par- ticular case. With regard to the cropping of allotment ground, the remarks which have already been made, and which will be found elsewhere in this volume, upon cottage gardening (see Cottage Gardens), will supply ample information. The fol- lowing rotation of crops is very simple, and has been strongly recommended. It applies to a rood or quarter of an acre, and supposes the breadth of the land to be 27^ yards, and the length 44 yards, which makes just one rood. Of this piece of land make three equal divisions, and crop as fc Hows : — First Division. — Plant, first week in March, 22 rows of potatoes, 2 feet between ALLOTMENT GARDENS. ALOYSIA. each row ; sets to be I foot apart in plant- ing. Sorts : York Regents, or Magnums, or a portion of each. Some sorts of potatoes, however, are better suited to one district than another ; therefore it is better to use such as have been found by experience to yield the best crops in the district in which the allotment ground is situated. An alley of one foot between this and the next division. Winter and spring brocoli, and winter cabbage and spinach ; take this division directly the potatoes are off. It will be found advantageous to plant the rows of potatoes at a greater distance apart, and set the brocoli and cabbages between the rows before the potatoes are off, as the plants can then be put in at an earlier period, and no time for growth and development is unnecessarily lost. Second Division. — Plant, n iddle of March, 2 rows of Windsor beans. Early In March, 4 rows of hollow- crowned parsnips. End of February, 4 rows of Altringham carrots, and six rows of onions, globe or James's keeping. End of March, I row of Windsor beans. Early in May, 4 rows of turnips, and 2 rows of beetroot. First week in May, I row of scarlet runners, with an alley, 2 feet in width, between each. This division is chiefly devoted to the root crop. It should be trenched for the main crop of potatoes next year directly the roots are off. Third Division. — Plant, last week in February, 2 rows of ash-leaved kidney potatoes and 3 rows of York or any other early cabbage. Early in March, I row of marrowfat peas and 3 rows of ash leaved kidneys, to be followed later on by broccoli. Last week in February, 6 rows of ash- leaved kidneys (celery after) ; I row of early long-pod beans, and I row of early peas, to be followed by celery. End of March, I row of cauliflowers, to be followed by turnips. Plant, as early as possible, 2 rows o/ lettuce, to be followed by autumn cabbage, with a foot alley between each. This division is appropriated to a mixed or early crop. It should be occupied with flying crops, such as turnips and lettuces, &c., in the autumn, and to be sown with the usual root crops next spring. (not. ord. Rosaceae). The common Almond — Amygdalus com- munis — is well known from its being one of the earliest flowering trees known in this country, when it is literally covered with pink blossom, which appears before the leaves. It does not bear fruit in our latitude. The tree is perfectly hardy, and highly ornamental. Al'oe (not. ord. Liliacese). A greenhouse evergreen succulent with thick fleshy leaves, usually in the form of a rosette and growing in sets of three 01 five. Plants in pots or tubs, well drained with broken bits of brick, crocks, and lime rubbish in compost of sandy loam, peat, and well-rotted manure. Propagate from suckers. Water freely in summer, but sparingly in winter, during which plants should be kept in a temperature of from 35° to 40°. There are many varieties. Aloy'sia (nat. ord. Verbenacese). A greenhouse, deciduous shrub, with long, lanceolate leaves, which exhale a delicious perfume. It is sometimes known as the Lemon Plant. It is suitable for the cold greenhouse, but requires protection from frost in winter, even under shelter. Re-pot in the spring, when the plant begins to break and the young shoots are from I U 2 inches long, using firstly a ALPINE PLANTS. AMARYLLIS. smaller pot than that in which the plant has been growing. Set in rich mould. When well rooted, transfer to larger pot. Only one kind of this plant is grown, and this is known as Aloysia Citriodora. Culture.— Propagate by cuttings taken in March or August. Plant in light sandy soil in gentle heat. Alpine Plants. Plants thus named are generally used for rockwork. They are brought from mountainous districts — hence the name. Among these stand conspicuous the Alpine auricula, gentian, &c. Culture. — Plant in ordinary border or rockery, or set in small pots, well drained, in light loam, well mixed with sand or road grit. Alstromer'ia (nat. ord. Amaryllida- A tuberous-rooted plant, hardy, and suitable for borders in which the soil is rich and light. They require slight pro- tection in winter, and should be watered freely when growing in summer. There are many varieties, hybrid and otherwise, but Alstromeria aurantiaca may be men- tioned as a good and showy type of the class. Alys'SUm (nat. ord. Crucifer»). Free-flowering, useful, pretty little plants for beds, edgings, or rockwork. The annual species bloom nearly the whole summer ; the perennials are amongst our earliest and most attractive spring flowers. The varieties are — Alyssum argenteum, — yellow, with silvery foliage, hardy perennial, i ft., from Switzerland. Alyssum Atlanticum,— fine light yellow, very ornamental, hardy perennial, f ft. Alyssum Bertolonii, — white, very fine, hardy annual, i ft. Alyssum sexatile, — yellow, extremely showy, hardy perennial, i ft., from Candia. Alyssum sexatile compactum, — golden-yellow, very compact, free flowering and beautiful, hardy perennial, A ft. Alyssum, Sweet, — white, very sweet, hardy annual, i ft., British. Amaran'thus (nat. ord. Amarantha1- cese). Half-hardy annuals, very graceful, with highly ornamental foliage. A. ruber, with dark carmine foliage, is a most strikingly beautiful plant for bedding, ribboning, or massing. Other varieties are A. AMARANTHUS CAUDATUS GIBBOSUS. leaves yellow and green, and A. tricolor, red, yellow, and green, and A. caudal in gibbosus, with long pendent crimson flowers growing on the long flower-stem in knots. Culture. — Sow in heat in early spring ; plant out in May and June in very rich soil. Amaryllis (not. ord. Amaryllida'cese). Flowers of rare beauty, whose large, drooping, bell-shaped, lily-like blossoms range in colours from the richest crimson to pure white, and striped with crimson or scarlet. They are easily cultivated, and with a little management a succession of bloom may be secured throughout the year. Some varieties do not require heat. A moderate supply of bulbs will serve the purpose. Varieties which do not require heat A. Belladonna purpurea (Belladonna Lily), — white flushed with rosy purple. AMERICAN BLIGHT. AMERICAN PLANTS. A. Belladonna blanda. A. Formosissima (Sprekelia formosissima), — rich crimson. A. Ipngifolia alba (Crinum capense alba),— white, sweet-scented. A. longifolia rosea (Crinum capense alba), — rose, sweet-scented. A. lutea (Sternbergia lutea),— yellow, flowers in autumn. Others must always be started in a hot- bed ; A. aulica,— reddish-brown with greenish stripes, flowers very large. A. cleopatra, — dark red, margined with white, of great substance and very showy. A. crocea grandiflora,— vermilion. A. crocea superba, — bright orange, large flowers. A. Johnsonii, — scarlet, with pure white stripes, very showy. A. Johnsonii striata, — striped. A. Prince of Orange, — bright orange, large and handsome. Culture.— When heat is not required, place the bulbs in front of a wall facing south, at least six inches under the surface, giving them a little winter protection : should the growing season be dry, water freely till the plant blooms, but when at rest the bulbs should be kept as dry and warm as possible. When heat is required, use six or .seven-inch pots, placing at the bottom a handful of potsherds and cover- ing them with turfy peat, filling up the pot with a compost of rich loam, leaf soil, and silver sand, leaving only the neck of the bulb uncovered ; the pots should then be either placed in a stove-frame or any other root - temperature, such as the modified heat of a tank or flue, and a few weeks will develop the flowers : immediately the leaves appear, give abun- dance of water, and encourage a vigorous leaf-growth. When the plant has done blooming, gradually withdraw the water, and give the bulbs an entire cessation from growth for eight or ten weeks, when they may again be re-potted and forced as before. American Blight. A woolly looking substance found on apple-trees and other trees of the same class, proceeding from a species of insec' called by some Eriosoma lanigera, and by others Aphis lanigera. The insect L subject to rapid increase, and infests the bark — entering the cracks and piercing the sap vessels from which it extracts, the juice, causing wounds which canker, and ultimately destroy the branch. In the winter it retreats to the bottom of the trunk, where it lies dormant during the winter, reascending to the branches in the spring. The trees should be brushed with a stiff brush, and a lather of soft soap applied in the winter, and on any reap- pearance of the insect in spring after this, paraffin or petroleum should be freely used, and well rubbed into the bark with an ordinary paint-brush, which penetrates the cracks and crevices in the bark all the better if half worn out. American Plants. Under this general name are included Rhododendrons, Azaleas, Kalmias, Le- dums, Andromedas, and others, which are supposed to require what is called bog earth. This, however, is not abso- lutely necessary to their successful cultiva- tion. In the following list some choice plants— broadly distinguished as American plants — are named, which will be found useful in the shrubbery, or in any collection of trees and shrubs. Generally speaking, they will thrive in any good soil, but will do best in peat earth, or in soil with which peat earth has been plentifully mixed. Rhododen- drons, Azaleas, Kalmias, and Daphnes were long supposed to require bog earth for their culture, but they are now found to bloom well in a stiff clay, and such a soil, with a moderate admixture of bog peat and brick and lime rubbish, is found to be admirably adapted for theii growth. If in a garden there happen to be a north wall, or wall which faces north and looks towards the AMERICAN PLANTS. TO ANDROMEDA. house, there is no place more suitable for clumps of American plants. It is well to draw attention to this, even though it is the shrubbery and its tenants that are now under consideration. CHOICE AMERICAN PLANTS FOR SHRUBBERIES, ETC. Height in feet. Andromeda floribunda to 2 „ polifolia Wild Rosemary „ — , grandiflora ,, 2 Azalea calendulacea ,, 6 „ ledifolia „ 6 ,, Pontica 4 ,, 6 „ procumbens j,, — ,, viscosa 2 ,, 4 Erica Australis 3 „ 6 carnea * „ — cinerea alba * „ x „ rosea i „ i Mackiana ,, 2 Mediterranea „ 6 stricta 3 tetralix vagans Cornish Heath Gaultheria procumbens Creeping Win- „ Shallon Kalmia augustifolia ter green ... — „ — 5 3 3 :; i „ 6 „ cuneata ., hirsuta j, latifolia , 10 Ledum glandulosum „ 6 „ latifolium Labrador Pea „ „ Canadense „ „ globosum „ palustre „ ,, decumbens Rhododendron albiflorum „ 3 „ Catambiense 3 »» 5 ,, chamaecistus Ground Cistus J „ — „ Dauricum 2 „ 3 „ Ponticum , 10 ,, 12 ,, „ odoratum 3 „ 4 Culture. — The plants in the foregoing list all belong to the natural orders Ericaceae, or Heath worts, and, being thus akin, they require for the most part similar soil and treatment. The soil that is suitable for them has been already mentioned. The Andromedas may be propagated by layers in September ; Azaleas by layers in March ; Ericas by cuttings consisting of the points of shoots plunged in sand or sandy peat, covered with a bell-glass, and put in a close pit or frame ; Gaultherias by layers and seeds; Kalmias by young shoots under hand-lights, by seeds in shallow pans in close frames, or by layers at end of summer ; Ledums by layers ; and Rhododendrons by seeds in spring sown in shallow pans and kept in close frames, by layers in spring or autumn, or by cuttings of young shoots taken when the base close to the older wood is getting firm, and set in silver sand, placed at first in a close frame, and after- wards subjected to a little bottom heat. The following materials, all of them within the reach of most persons, may be made to form a compost adapted to their culture. Rotted leaves, spent tan, saw- dust, old thatch or straw, weeds, grass- mowings, and vegetable refuse of all kinds — old manure, even the bottoms of old wood-stacks. Any or all of these in a decomposed state, blended with a certain proportion of garden soil, may be rendered fit to grow American plants ; but as it is the character of all decomposed vegetable matter fit to enter rapidly into the com- position of the vegetable fabric, to subside rapidly, this must be guarded against by employing also such organic matter as tree-leaves, lumps of peat, peaty turf, or other vegetable matter, which will take long before decay takes place. Where old tan or sawdust is liberally used, the leaves should be fresh ; those which have been used as linings for hotbeds by prefer- ence, from their tendency to mass together. Old thatch, or litter, forms an excellent basis for the whole clump, and weeds and other vegetable refuse, when burnt or charred. This compost, with a subsoil sufficiently retentive of moisture, and situation not too much exposed to the direct influence of the sun, will grow these beautiful shrubs in great perfection. Ampelop'sis. See Virginian Creeper. Androm'eda (nat. ord. Eri'cacess). Hardy, evergreen, heath-like shrubs, ANEMONE. ANEMONE. natives of North America. They delight in bog, like all other so-called American plants, and their roots should never be suffered to become quite dry; for if this occurs, the plant has seldom vigour enough to send out a sufficient quantity of new roots, and in general dies. All the kinds may be propagated by layers, or by seeds sown as soon as ripe in pans or boxes and placed in a cold frame to germinate. Anem'one, or Windflower (n ord. Ranuncula'cese). Anemones, which are hardy tuberous perennials, are hardier than ranunculuses, have a richer foliage, and their flowers resemble miniature semi-double hollyhocks. They also include most of the colours of the hollyhock, except a pure white or yellow ; but to compensate for the want of these, nothing can exceed in loveliness the DOUBLE ANEMONE. blue or purple, or in glory the scarlet, of the anemone. And although there is neither a white nor a yellow self among them, for the single -white is not wholly white, yet several of them are beautifully striped with these colours. The foliage is elegantly cut, and the growth is neat and compact. The flowers of the double anemone, as will be seen from the accompanying illus- tration, are extremely handsome ; they have outer guard petals, lesembling a semi- double hollyhock. The single anemone, also illustrated here, SINGLE ANEMONE. has beautiful poppy-like blossoms of large size and various colours. Culture. — Anemones delight in a light, rich, loamy soil, but generally succeed in any which is well drained. Sea-sand, or a little salt mixed with the soil, is a good preventive of mildew. They may be planted from October to the end of March, and a succession of bloom thus secured, n mild seasons, from February until July. They will flower well in almost any com- mon garden soil, but it is desirable that the jround in which they are grown should be olerably light (some consider that a cal- careous, dry soil suits them best), and that t should be well drained and enriched with decayed manure, or manure from a spent hotbed. The tubers are generally planted n the early part of the year, but the roots can be obtained from September to March, nd it is desirable that beds should be brmed about October, and the tubers planted immediately after from 4 to 6 ANEMONE. 12 ANNUALS, HALF-HARDY. inches apart. If the weather be very inclement during the winter, the beds should be covered with loose litter. The roots may be taken up for removal, or for drying off and replanting in autumn, as soon as the leaves have died off in spring. A change of position is recommended at intervals of two or three years, for the maintenance of the size, beauty, and rich- ness of the flowers ; but this may be effected by taking up the roots, digging the bed over, and adding some decayed manure to enrich the soil and nourish the plants in the following spring. The tuberous roots of the anemone may be obtained from any nurseryman or seeds- man from September to March. There are some named sorts, such as " The Bride," with white blooms, &c., but for these reference must be made to any dealer's catalogue. Anemones are usually regarded as spring flowers, and most undoubtedly always flower best at that season. In certain soils and situations, however, the tendency to growth and flowering in anemones is such that they have no sooner died down after spring-flowering, than they throw out fresh leaves and flower again in autumn. This, however, is not desirable, for it weakens the tubers, and the flowers soon degenerate. Autumn-flowering may generally be pre- vented by excluding light and air from the beds, by means of heavy top-dressings of well-rotted manure during the summer months. Many persons will take up anemone tubers as soon as the leaf has died down ; but this is not necessary, nor is it a good plan, unless the soil of the bed requires renovation, for the tubers will not keep many days out of the ground. The finest flowers are generally produced the first spring after a new sowing ; but soil and situation have always a great effect upon them. Annuals, Half hardy, List of. The best of the half-hardy annuals, which require to be raised either in gentle heat, or under protection of some kind, and which should be transplanted to their blooming quarters when the weather per- mits, are included in the following list. When used for grouping purposes, they should be pushed on and potted singly into - small 6o-sized pots previous to planting. Some of them are very neat continuous flowering plants, and if cut back several times during the summer, form nice com- pact masses of bloom. Abronia umbellata, 6, rosy lilac. Ageratum Mexicanum, 9, lavender blue, white. Half-hardy annual out of doors, perennial in greenhouse, provided that seed is not allowed to ripen. The best dwarf varieties produced by cultivation for bedding purposes are :— Cupid, 6, deep rich blue, free flowering. Imperial Dwarf, 9, porcelain blue. Lady Jane, 9, porcelain blue, free flowering. ?««», 9, silvery grey. nowJJake, 9, white, free flowering. Swanley Bine, 6, very rich deep blue. Alonsoa Warscewiczii, 18, bright scarlet, ALONSOA. Anagallis grandiflora,6, deep blue, vermilion red. „ linifolia or Monelli, 9 to 12, many varieties, blue, red, maroon, scarlet, purple with yellow eye. Aster Sinensis (China Aster}, 15, blue, red, white. Many varieties variously distinguished. Balsamina inpatiens (Balsam), 18, various colours. Brachycome iberidifolia, 10, lavender, white. Canna Indica (Indian Shot), mostly 36 to 72, various, of many different colours, scarlet, yellow, &c., and remarkable for foliage. Among these, C. I. Bihorelli and C. indijlora Ehemanni may be specially recommended. Clianthus Dampierii, climber, scarlet and black. „ pu nice us (Glory Pea), climber, scarlet. ANNUALS, HALF-HARDY. 13 ANNUALS, HARDY. Clintonia pulchella, 4, blue, with yellowish eye. Ccbaea scandens, climber sending out shoots 20 to 30 feet long ; purplish bell-shaped flowers. Datula ceratocaulon, 24, white, tinged with rose. „ fastuosa, 30, purple, red, and white, &c. „ humilis flore-pleno, 18, golden yellow, flowers double and scented. „ stramonium (Thorn Apple), 18, white. ,, tatula, 24, deep lilac. „ Wrightii, 24, white, edged with lilac. Dianthus Sinensis (Indian Pink), 12 to 18, various. The variety known as D. S. (or Chinensis) Heddewigii is perhaps the best. Gaillardia picta, 15, rich claret, gold edge. Helichrysum bracteatum (Ever Lasting Flower), a to 3, yellow, orange, brown, and all shades of red. „ orientale (The French "Immor- telle "), 2, primrose-yellow. Ipomoea bona nox, tall climber, as are all the Ipomaeas ; rose, deepening to violet. „ coccinea, 70, scarlet. There is a yellow variety. „ purpurea (Convolvulus major or Morn- ing' Glory), 70, white, striped, red, purple, &c., in all shades and tints. Lobelia erinus, 6, light blue. Other varieties are L. e. speciosa, blue, with white eye, and L. e. alba, white. ,, pumila, 6, deep blue. Many varieties produced by cultivation, but perpetuated by cuttings to preserve strain. ,, ramosa, 12, deep blue. Lophospermum scandens, 72, rosy purple. Mathiola annua (Ten Week Stock), 15, various. ,, Grseca (Intermediate Stock), 15, various. Mesembryanthemum tricolor, 4, rose and white. Oxalis rosea, 6, bright pink, greenish at base. „ tropaeoloides, 8, golden yellow, with foliage of a dark brownish purple. „ Valdiyiana, 8, dark yellow. Perilla Nankinensis. See List of Hardy Annuals. Phlox Drummondii. See List of Hardy Annuals. Rhodanthe Manglesii, 12, rose, with yellow j centre. All the Rhodanthes are everlasting flowers. Ricinus Africanus (Castor Oil Plant), 8, remark- able for beauty of foliage. Salpiglossis coccinea, 36. Flowers funnel- shaped, with grdund of whitish yellow, brown, pink, scarlet, or crimson, marked with blue, yellow, or brown. Schizanthus. See List of Hardy Annuals. Senecio elegans, 12, crimson, pink, white. Stocks. See List of Hardy Annuals. Tagetes erecta nana (Dwarf African Mart- I gold), 9, deep yellow. „ patula (French Marigold), 12, brown | and yellow. Tropaeolum Canariense, 10, canary yellow. Zinnia elegans, 24, scarlet, with dark purple j disc. ,, Mexicana, 12, bright orangt. Annuals, Half-hardy, Treatment of. Sow the seeds in March or April, in pots or pans, and shelter them in a pit, or plunge the pots in moderate bottom-heat, such as a hotbed that is cooling. The temperature should not rise above 75° by day, or fall below 55° at night. Shade the seedlings from strong sun, give plenty of air when the weather is favourable, and thin out if too close together in the pots. Harden off gradually, and remove to flowering quarters about the middle of May, but delay the removal to the end of the month if the weather be cold and un- favourable. Annuals, Hardy, Culture and Management of. For hardy annuals, and for annuals generally, any ordinary garden soil is good enough, and indeed better than rich soil, for this tends to produce luxuriance of growth, which is incompatible with the production of flowers. Very hardy annuals may be sown in autumn, not earlier than the last week in August, and not later, even in sheltered spots, than the last week in September. Autumn-sown plants, if they survive the winter's frosts, will bloom early in spring. The situa- tion best suited for autumn sowing is one that is sheltered from strong and cutting winds, but free from shade, and well exposed to the sun. Spring sowings for blooming in summer may be made at any time from the middle of March to the middle of April, due regard being had to situation, and later sowings for flowering in autumn should be made from the middle of May to the middle of June. Raising for Transplanting. — When it is desired to raise annuals for transplanting, they may be sown in beds in the reserve garden or elsewhere, and removed, when about half grown, to the positions in which they are intended to flower. The trans- planting of annuals, unless very carefully done, is always attended with some danger ; but this may be obviated if they are raised ANNUALS, HARDY. ANNUALS, HARDY. in pots, from which they can be turned out without disturbing the roots, or sown on pieces of turf turned grass downwards, the seeds being covered with a thin coating of mould after they have been sprinkled on the turf. Hardy annuals sown in spring, and some kinds sown in autumn, need no protection from the weather. General Routine Culture. — Before sowing seed, slightly tread or beat the ground, to impart some degree of solidity to it, and prevent it from sinking ; rake the surface and sow the seed, sprinkling it evenly over the space to be covered, and complete the operation by scattering or sifting some fine mould over the seed, regulating the depth according to the thickness of the seed, the general rule being that the depth of mould over the seed should in every case be no greater than its own depth or thickness. After the young plants are of a sufficient size, thinning must be resorted to in order to prevent them from being drawn into strag- gling growth by remaining in too thick masses. Annuals that require support, such as sweet peas, &c., must have sticks placed among or around them, and climbers, such as tropseolums, convolvulus major, &c., must be supported and trained. In very dry weather a little watering may be found necessary, and withering or withered flowers should be removed, unless it is desired to save seed, in order to induce fresh blooms and to prolong the time of flowering. Annuals, List of Hardy. The following is a list of hardy annuals, the most hardy having a star attached to them. The ordinary or familiar garden name is given where it can be, with the height in inches, and the colour of the lowers, or colours, when the blooms are not restricted to one tint onlv, but are of various hues. Strictly speaking, all flowers mentioned in the lists to follow, are not annuals in the corntries from which they have been first obtained, but they will not survive the inclemency of the British winter, and are, to all intents and purposes, annuals when grown in the open-air in this country. Adonis flos (or ^stivalis) 12, deep crimson. Agrostemma cceli-rosea, 12, rose colour. Alyssum calcyinum (Sweet Alyssum), 6, white. ,, maritimum, 8, white. Amaranthus caudatus (Love-lies-Bleeding), 30, crimson. „ hypochpndriacus (Prince's Feather), 30, crimson. Agemone grandiflora, 30, yellow. Bartonia aurea,* 15, bright yellow. Calandrinia grandiflora, 12, rosy violet. ,, speciosa, 6, violet-crimson. ,, umbellata, 6, rich crimson. Calliopsis bicolor (or tinctoria), 24, yellow, with purple-brown blotch at base. „ bicolor nana, 12, similar to preceding. „ coronata, 24, orange, spotted brownish purple. „ Drummondii, 12, orange-yellow, with crimson-brown eye. Campanula Allica, 6, blue, with white centre. „ Loreyi (or ramosissima), 12, blue, white. „ speculum (I'enus's Looking Glass), 8, blue, white. Centaurea Americana, 36, red. ,, cyanus (Bluebottle or Cornflower), 2410 36, blue, white, crimson, brown. ,, depressa 12, blue, with brownish-red centre. Centranthus macrosiphon, 15, red, pale rose, white. Clarkia pulchella,* 18, purple, rose and white. „ elegans, 18, crimson, rose, white. Chrysanthemum coronarium, 24, yellow and white. „ tricolor, 24, yellow round purple disc. „ „ , Burridgii, 24, yellow centre and pure white edge, with bright crim- son band intervening. Cochlearia acaulis, 3, pale lilac. Collinsia bicolor,* 9, purple and white. ,, grandiflora, 9, lilac and blue. „ tricolor, 9, purple, lilac, and white. Collomia coccinea, 12, bright scarlet. Convolvulus tricolor (or minor), 12, yellowish centre, white and blue, purple,white striped, &c. Coreopsis. See Calliopsis. Delphinium Ajacis * (Rocket Larksfur),i%, blue, pink, red, white, single and double. ,, cardiopetalum, 12, dark blue. ,, sinense, 24, brilliant blue. Dianthus Sinensis (Indian Pink), 12, various. Erysmium Perofskianum,* 18, orange. Eschscholtzia crocea,* 12, deep chrome yellow. „ Californica, 18, brilliant yellow, orange towards centre, orange, pale primrose approaching white} ,, tenuifolia, 9, pale yellow. Eucharidium concinnum, 12, dark red. „ grandiflorum, 12, rosy purplt Butoca viscida,* 12, blue with white eye. Flos Adonis,* 9, blood red. See Fig. 575. ANNUALS, HARDY. ANNUALS, HARDY. Gilia liniflora, 12, white. ,, tricolor, 12, purple, white and yellow. Godetia,* many varieties, 18, rosy crimson, white, &c. Godetia, "Lady Albemarle," 18, large rosy crimson blooms. "Lady Satin Rose," 18, deep rose- pink, with satiny surface. „ " The Bride," 18, white with purple eye. Helianthus annuus (Common Sunflower), 72, yellow. i, argyrophyllus, 60, yellow, silvery leaves. „ Californicus, 84, orange. . ,, centrochlorus, 48, yellow, green centre. „ cucumerifolius, 72, golden yellow, purple centres. „ globosus fistulosus, 60, saffron, double. H.elichrys\imcompositum(liverIasttHg Flower), 1 8, various colours. Hibiscus Africanus, 18, pale yellow, with crimson centre. Iberis amara (Candytuft), 9, white. „ „ hesperidiflora (Rocket Candytuft), 12, pure white. „ umbellata, 12, purple. Larkspur. See Delphinium. Lathyrus odoratus (Sweet Pea\ various colours, as " Invincible Black," dark rich colour; " In- vincible Scarlet," intense scarlet ; " Crown Princess of Prussia," lovely blush ; " Clarke's Hybrid," rose, blue, and white ; " Painted Lady," red and white. Leptosiphon androsaceus, 9, rose, white, yellow. „ aureus, 9, rich yellow. „ densiflorus, 12, pale purple, white. Limnanthes alba, 6, white. t, Dpuglasii, 8, yellow and white. Linaria triornithophora, 24, AntirrAinv?n-\ike flowers, reddish violet and purple, spotted yellow. Linum flavum (Yellow Flax), to, yellow. ,, grandiflorum, 12, blue flax plant. »,. 11 rubeum, 9. crimson. Lupinus, 12 ip 36, many varieties, purple, lilac, white, violet, yellow, blue, red, and brown. „ Hartwegii, 24, blue and white, white. „ nanus, 9, deep blue, white. Malcolmia maritime (Virginian Stock), 6, lilac, red. ,, bicolor, 6, lilac and white. Malope grandiflora (4f«£Mp), 36, red. ,, „ alba, 36, white. Mathiola (Stock), " Dwarf German Ten Week," Q, various colours; "Large Flowered German Ten Week," 18, various colours ; " New Autumnal," 15, various colours. Monolopia Californica, 6, deep yellow. Nemophila discoidalis, 9, maroon and white, it insignis,* 6, sky blue and white. There are other varieties of this plant, variously coloured. * maculata, 6, white, blotched with purple. Nigella hispanica (Love in a Mist), 18, dark violet. CEnothera bistorta Veitchiana 6, lemon colour, with blood-red spot at base. { OSnothera Drummondii nana, ia, golden yellow. ,, Lindleyana, 12, white and red. „ rosea, 12, purplish rose. Omphaloides linifolium (Venus's Navel Wort), 12, white spikes of bloom. Papaver caryophylloides (Carnation Poppy), 30, various colours, and crimson scarlet. <; Marsellii, 24, white tipped, blood crim- son. „ Rhaeas plena (Dwarf French Poppy\ 24, various colours ; double flowers. Perilla Nankinensis, 18, pink, with maroon- bronze foliage. Phlox Drummondii, 12, pure white, pink, buff, purple, crimson, some with eye in centre, and some striped. Portulaca grandiflora, 3, various colours. Reseda odprata (Mignonette), 9. Flowers small and insignificant, but remarkable for frag- rance. Rhodanthe atrosanguinea, 15, magenta-purple. ,, maculata, deep rose, with yellow centre surrounded by crimson ring ; white. „ Manglesii, 12, silvery rose, with yellow centre. Salpiglossis coccinea, 36, various colours. Saponaria alba. 9, white. ,, Calabnca, 9. pink, compact. Schizanthus Grahami, 18, red or orange, streaked with purple. „ pinnatus, 15, purple and white. ,, retusus, 18, red and yellow. Schizopetalon Walked, 12, white, almond scented. Schortia Californica, 9, yellow, with dark centre ; useful for masses ; better sown later in the season. Silene pendula, i2? rosy pink. Sphenogyne speciosa, 15, yellow, with purple centre. Statice Bonduelli, 18, golden yellow. Sunflower. See Helianthus. Stock. See Mathiola. Sweet Pea. See Lathyrus. Tagetes signata pumila, excellent as bedding plant, 9, yellow with brown spots ; better sown in April. Traeopolum majus (Common Nasturtium), 72, many colours, from straw colour to the deepest brown. Venus's Navel Wort. See Omphaloides. Virginian Stock. See Malcolmia. Veronica syriaca (Syrian Speedwell), 9, blue ; pretty for margins ; sow where it is to flower. Viscaria cceli-rosea, 12, bright rose. ,, elegans picta, 12, crimson and scarlet, with white edge. „ oculata, 9, pink, dark eye. „ „ coccinea, 9, scarlet, dark eye. , splendens, 12, rose pink. The above list comprises an excellent variety of hardy annuals, and, if not abso- ulely exhaustive, is sufficient for all general mrposes. For other sorts, reference must be made to the catalogues of the leading seeds- ANTHOMYIA. 16 APHIDES. men. They are beautiful for masses in borders, edgings, small beds, patches, and single lines. A few cultural remarks on some of them may be useful. By cutting off the flowers of Erysimum Perofskianum as soon as they fade, and thus preventing it from running to seed, it may be kept in bloom throughout the summer. The varieties of Clarkia are so beautiful that all mentioned above should be grown. Convolvulus major is not included in the above list, because it is best raised in heat with the half-hardy annuals. Anthomy'ia. See Cibbagj Fly and Onion Fly. Antirrhi'num (not ord. scropim- laria'cese). The Antirrhinum, popularly called Snap- dragon, is a hardy perennial, and one of our most showy and useful border plants. Amongst the more recently improved varieties of this valuable genus are large finely shaped flowers of the most brilliant colours, with beautifully marked throats ; ANTIRRHINUM, OR SNAP-DRAGON. they succeed in any good garden soil, and are very effective in beds." The smaller kinds are valuable for rockwork and old walls. It is of no use to enumerate named varieties, but the reader is referred for these to Mr. John Forbes, of Hawick, N.B. Plants yielding blossoms of all sorts of colours maybe obtained from a single packet of seed. Ants, To Destroy. Place an inverted garden-pot over the nest, and the ants will work into it. Re- move the pot in a day or two by placing a spade underneath it ; then plunge it, with its contents, into boiling water, and repeat the process if necessary. Ants may be expelled from any particular plant by sprinkling it well with sulphur ; they may also be kept away from wall -fruit, and other fruit while ripening, by drawing a broad band with chalk along the wall near the ground, and round the stem of the trees. Ants may also be destroyed by pouring boiling water on the nest, or by a mixture of sugar and beer in which arsenic has been mixed Chloride of lime will also drive them from their haunts. Aph'ides, Aphis (piur.). Aphides, or plant-lice, and their con- geners, are indicated by an unhealthy appearance in plants ; the leaves and young shoots curl up, and multitudes of ants, which seem to feed on their secre- tions, are seen about the stems. A remedy is found in repeatedly syringing the leaves and stems with tobacco or lime- water, or with gas-tar water when that can be obtained ; but plants should be care- fully examined in May, and the winged, parent of the Psilla Pyra> and its con- geners, destroyed before they have de- posited their eggs. Lady-birds (Coccine- lida) render great service in destroying myriads of aphides, which ought to insure them the protection of gardeners. Tobacco smoke, dispersed through a house by a fumigate r, and Gishurst's Compound are effectual in clearing plants of green fly ; but if fumig ition is resorted to, all apertures must be effectually stopped, so that the smoke may be retained within the struc- ture, and so thoroughly do its work. APHIS BRUSHES. APPLE TREES. Aphis Brushes. When the aphis, or green fly, collects in ^reat numbers on the end of a shoot of any plant, such as the rose, covering it with a thick external coating of insect life, it has been found that they may be easily removed by means of aphis brushes. These brushes are made in the form of scissors, as shown in the accompanying illustration. At the end of each arm is a narrow brush formed of soft bristles. The brushes are closed on the infested shoot a little below the insects, and then drawn upwards and APHIS BRUSHES. along it. Two or three applications of the brush will very nearly, if not entirely, remove all the aphides without doing any injury to the shoot. Sometimes the aphis brush is made in the form of sheep shears — that is to say, an elastic steel bow, wiih a brush at the end of each arm. Pressure only of the thumb and ringers is required to bring the brushes together, and the shoot is cleared as before by drawing the brushes along it. The cost of an aphis brush is is. 6d. Apple. The apple is a somewhat capricious fruit, some sorts affecting clay soils, while others do better in sandy loam, and even in well-drained peat soils. Apple-planting, therefore, requires some discrimination as weii as observation as to the sorts most Successfully grown in the locality. Early Dessert Apples.— The following are ten good varieties that ripen their fruit early. They are arranged in order of ripen- ing, and those which are marked with a star in all cases may be planted in cold soils : — i. Red Juneating. 2. Mr. Gladstone. 3. Devonshire Quar- renden.* 4. Duchess of Old- enburg. 5. Kerry Pippin. 6. Summer Golden Pippin.* 7. -Worcester Pear- main. 8. Prolific or Col. Vaughan. 9. Sugarloaf Pippin 10. Red Astrachan. Dessert Apples for Storing. — The follow- ing are eight choice varieties for storing : — 1. King of Pippins. 2. Cox's Orange Pip- pin. 3. Blenheim Orange. 4. Gascoyne's Scar- let Seedling.* 5. Wyken or War- wick Pippin.* 6. Golden Knob.* 7. Sturmer Pippin. 8. Court Pendu Plat.* Cooking Apples for Immediate Use. — Tht following are the names of twelve good •orts:— i. Early Julien.* a. Keswick Codlin.* 3. Manx Codlin.* 4. Cellini Pippin. 5. Lord Suffield. 6. Old Hawthornden 7. New Hawthorn- den. 8. Cox's Pomona. 9. Loddington Seedling.* 10. Grenadier, ii. Warner's King. 12. Stirling Castle. Cooking Apples for Storing. —The follow- ing are choice varieties for this purpose :— i. Blenheim Orange, a. Small's Admi- rable. 3. Golden Noble. 4. Lord Derby.* 5. Queen Caroline.* 6. Belle Dubois or Gloria Mundi. 7. Winter Queen- ing.* 8. Wellington 01 Dumelow's.* 9. Warner's King. 10. Beauty of Kent.* ii. Northern Green- ing.* 12. Smart's Prince Albert.* Apple Trees, How to Prune. The modern system of dwarfing fruit- trees, by which space is so much econo- mised, is produced by a special course ol pruning, commencing a year from grafting, when the apple tree should be pruned back, leaving about eight buds on the shoots. In the second year the head will APRICOTS. i3 AQUATIC PLANTS. ,-xhibit eight or ten shoots, and a selection must now be made of five or six, which shall give a cup-like form to the head, re- moving all shoots crossing each other, or which interfere with that form ; thus leaving the head hollow in the centre, with a shapely head externally, shortening back the shoots retained to two-thirds or less, according as the buds are placed, and leaving all of nearly the same size. In the course of the summer's growth the tree will be assisted by pinching off the leading shoots where there is a tendency to over- throw the balancing of the head. At the third year's pruning the same process of thinning and cutting back will be required, after which the tree can hardly go wrong. The shoots retained should be short-jointed and well-ripened ; and in shortening, cut back to a healthy, sound-looking, and veil-placed bud. After the third year, little of no shortening back will be re- quired, especially where root-pruning is practised ; the tree should now develop it- self in fruiting stems, which will subdue the tendency to throw out gross or barren shoots. Large standard trees in their prime only require pruning once in two or three years. At these intervals cross-growing or exhausted shoots, especially those in the centre of the tree, require thinning out, bearing in mind that the best fruit grows %t the extremities of the branches, and that diese branches must be kept under control. 3ee also Pruning Trees , Training of Fruit Trees, Standard Trees, Pyramidal System, Palmette, or Fan System, Verrier's System of Pruning, Cordon System, Apricots. Apricots, as most other fruit trees, flourish best in a good sound loam. For planting, prepare the soil about a yard deep, and manure with rotten leaves — one part of leaves to four or five 01 soil. Place a substratum of brick or other im- perishable material below each tree. The apricot, when in a healthy state, pro- duces more natural spurs than most other trees, and although some kinds will blossom and bear fruit on the young wood, yet the chief dependence for a crop of fine fruit must be on the true spurs. In pruning, stop all leading shoots, and pinch off to a few buds all shoots not required to fill up vacant places on the wall. Thin partially all fruit where it is thickly set, but reserve the final thinning until the fruit has stoned. The apricot, and especi- ally the " Moor Park," the finest of them, is subject to a sudden paralysis : first a branch, then a side, dies away, until scarce a vestige of the tree is left ; and this generally occurs on fine sunny days in spring and early summer, when the sap- vessels are young, and the sap is easily exuded by a few sunny days. In this state a frost occurs, the sap- vessels are burst by the thawing of the frozen fluid, and the whole economy of the plant deranged. Under these circumstances, which are so often occurring, the injured limb having consumed the sap, can draw no further supply ; it yields to the solar influence, languishes and dies. The remedy is to retard, or rather prevent, premature vegeta- tion, and when that can no more be done, to provide protection ; for this is recom- mended netting made of sedge, of about four-inch mesh, to envelop the main branches. The following are good varieties for walls or orchard houses under glass : — i. Breda. a. Hemskirke. 3. Kaisha. 4. Large Early. 5. Moor Park. 6. Peach. Aquatic Plants, Culture, &c. There are many aquatic plants which can be cultivated in a piece of water, whether larje or small, or the margin of a stream. AQUATIC PLANTS. AQUATIC PLANTS. Flowers for water are of two kinds — plants to be placed in the water itself, usually called aquatic plants, and marsh plants to be planted on the banks. Aquatic plants are propagated, some by seed and some by division of the roots. The seeds when sown must be placed under water : in other respects aquatic plants require the same general treatment as other herbaceous plants. Many of the aquatic plants will do well in damp and moist situations, such as Butomus umbellatus, Call ha palustris ^ &c., and many marsh plants, as may be inferred from the preceding list, will thrive and flourish in damp, moist shady spots, in which other perennials would languish and ultimately perish. That this is true is evident from the Arum lily, which is an aquatic plant, or in other words, a plant that will grow in water, yet it does well as a pot plant set in ordinary soil, provided that it be watered freely, which keeps the soil in a condition similar to that of marsh land, and receives protection in a cool or even cold greenhouse in winter. Aquatic Plants, List of. To those who may be desirous of orna- menting any piece of ornamental water, the following lists will be found invaluable. The situation best adapted for hardy aquatics will be found to be in accordance with their height. Many that are not hardy may be introduced for summer decoration in pots sunk either wholly or half deep in water. These can be removed in winter to warm-water tanks under cover of glass. Every year something new in acquatics is being introduced, for the water plants of the tropics are inexhaustible, and very many of them supremely beautiful. Most of the plants which are mentioned in the following lists prefer a shady and sheltered situation, and will be found to flourish best when protected by over- hanging trees. Rock- work and root -work form admirable receptacles for plants on the margins of streams, and afford all the protection they require when properly I arranged. It may be said that aquatic plants out-of-doors flower from May to August. Those that require protection in winter, and that on this account are grown in pots, which are plunged in water, will flower earlier ; thus the Arum lily, Richardia or Calla sEthiopica, will flower from Christmas to Easter, within doors. Aquatic plants requiring protection in winter are marked with a star. These plants, whose height is not given, have leaves and flowers floating on the surface of the water. The following list comprises all the aquatic plants lhal are most deserving of notice and cul.urc. The height, when given, is in inches. Acorus calamus (Sweet Flag), 36, yell (Water Plantain), 24, rosy Alisma plantago white. Aponogeton distaohyon,* white, marked with black, sweet scented. Arum, ^Ethiopicun (A runt or Trumpet LiJy),* 24 to 36, pure white. This plant is sometimes called " Calla," or " Richardia." Butomus umbellatus, 24, rose. Nuphar adorna, yellow, with red anthers. „ luteum ( Yellow Water Lily), yellow. Nymphaea alba (White Water Lily), white. ,, adorata, white. Pontederia cordata, blue, in fine tufts. Ranunculus aquatilis, white. Sagittaria latifolia, 12, white. Calla ^ithiopica. See Arum sEthiopicum. Caltha palustris, 12, yellow. Hottoma palustris (Water Violet\ 18, lilai with yellow. Iris pseudacorus(K*//07t/ Iris or Water Flag). 24, yellow. Limnocharis Humboldtii,* yellow. Menyanthestrifoliata, white, dark green foliage. Sagittaria sagittaefolia, 30, white, dashed with pink. Thalia dealbata,* 40, blue, purple. Trapa natans, white, with purple claws. Trianea Bogotensis, fine glaucous leaves. Vallisneria spiralis, white, with green strap- like leaves. Villarsia nymphaeoides, golden yellow. In addition to those already mentioned may be named a few marsh plants of handsome appearance that are suitable for AQUILEGIA. 20 ARBORETUM. planting on the borders of streams and the margins of ponds and ornamental pieces of water : — Arundo donax, 120, remarkable for its foliage. Hemerocallis fulva, 24, tawny yellow. Hputtnynia cordata,* 12, yellowish green. Iris fcetidissima (Stinking Gladwyti), 30, bluish lilac. Lythrurn roseum superbum, 36, rose colour. Myosotis palustris, 9 blue, with yellow throat. /Enanthe crocata, 42, white. ,, fistulosa, 24, white. Parnassia palustris, 6, white. Phormium tenax (New Zealand Flax), 30, blue. Senecio paludosus, 42, yell Scrophularia aquatica, 42, ow. 42, red. Aquilegia, or Columbine (nat. ord. E&mmculaceae). A pretty herbaceous perennial of which many beautiful hybrid varieties have been recently introduced. Seeds of these can be obtained of any nurserymen, and should be sown in March in any ordinary garden soil. Araucaria (nat. ord. Pinace»). The best -known variety of the trees which bear this name is the Araucaria isnbricata, or Chili pine, sometimes called ARUCARIA KXCEI.SA. the Monkey Puzzle, because it is said to be the only tree the monkey cannot climb, on account of the sharp, stiff leaves anned with thorns at the point which cover the long, drooping boughs like scales or tiles, each overlapping the one in advance of it. It can be grown from seed and cuttings of young wood that has ripened, planted in light but rich loam and covered by a hand- glass. To ensure rooting the cuttings should be carefully shaded. A young plant of Araucaria excelsa, or the Norfolk Island Pine in a pot, is shown in the accompanying illustration. Arbor Vitse. See Thuja. Arboretum. The pinetum (which see) is a piece of ground set apart for the reception of cone-bearing trees and pines, all of which possess a certain degree of simi- larity. An arboretum is simply an ex- tension of this idea, and in the ground thus called are placed all known hardy trees, and not trees of a single family only. It may be defined as a place set apart for a collection of trees and shrubs, containing only one or two plants of each kind, and arranged according to system. It may be of any extent ; but to render it useful, each tree and shrub should be named. In planting an arboretum, the principles laid down for the pinetum in reference to distance, grouping, &c., will be applicable. Arboretum, Trees for. The following trees may be planted in the arboretum, either singly or in orna- mental groups, at the back of shrubberies, or in parks or pleasure grounds. i. EVERGREEN TREES, PARTIALLY OB ENTIRELY. Height in Feet. Arbutus hybrida 10 to 20 ,, laurifolia 8 10 ,, unedo Strawberry Tree... 10 20 ,, ,, rubra 10 20 Quercus Fulham- ensis Fulham Oak 50 100 „ ilex Holly 40 60 „ „ latifolia 20 50 „ y variegata 20 „ Luccombearia Luccombe's Oak 30 ioc , subet Cork Tree 20 „ ja ARBORETUM. 21 ARBORETUM. s. DECIDUOUS TREES. Height in Feet. Acacia julibrissia Silk Tree 20 to — Acer platanoides Norway Maple ... 40 „ 70 „ variegatum 30 „ 50 „ pseudo-pla- tanus Sycamore 30 „ 60 ,, rubrum Swamp Maple 30 „ 50 ^Esculus hippo- castanum Horse Chesnut ...30 „ 70 „ ,, flore-pleno 30 ,, 40 ., rubicunda 20 ,, 30 Ailanthus glandu- losa 4° » 60 Alnus cordifolia 15 ,, 50 ,, glutinosa Common Aider ... 30 ,, 60 ,, ,, laciniata .' 30 ,, 60 Amygdalus com- munis Common Almond 10 ,, 30 ,, „ arnara Bitter Almond 10 „ 30 „ „ dulcis Sweet Almond 10 „ 30 „ ,, flore-pleno 10 ,, 30 ,, orientalis 8 „ 10 Betula alba Common Birch... 40 „ 60 „ excelsa 60 ,, 70 ,, pendula 30 ,, 40 Carpinus Ameri- cana 15 ,, 30 „ betulus 30 ,, 70 Carya alba ....Shell Bark Hickory 50 „ 70 „ olivaeformis... Pecan Nut 30 „ — porcina Pig Nut, or Broom Hickory 70 „ 80 „ tomentosa ...Mocker Nut 60 „ 70 Castanea vesca ...Spanish Chesnut... 50 ,, 70 „ asplenifolia 40 ,, 50 „ variegata 40 „ 50 Catalpa syringse- folia 20 „ 40 Celtis occidentalisNettle Tree 30 „ 50 Cerasus Padus Bird Cherry 10 „ 30 ,, semperfloreusAll Saints' Cherry 10 „ 20 „ serrulata Double Chinese Cherry 15 ,, — Corylusavellana... Hazel or Filbert... 20 „ 30 „ „ grandis .. Great Cob Nut ... 8 „ 10 Cratasgus apilfolia 8 „ 10 ,, coccinea 20 ,, 30 „ Crus-galli Cockspur Thorn... 10 „ 30 „ ,, splendens 10 „ 30 M nigra *. 10 „ 20 „ oxyacantha... Common Haw- thorn 10 ,, 20 „ flore-pleno albo 10 „ 20 „ „ praecos ...Glastonbury Thorn 10 „ 20 „ „ punicea ...Scarlet Thorn 10 „ 20 ,, ,, rosea 10 ,, 20 Cytisus albus 6 „ 10 I£uonymu8 Kuro- paeus Spindle Tree 10 „ 20 Fagus sylvatica ...Common Beech ... 60 „ 100 ii ii argenteo varie- gatis ao „ 40 „ ,, aureo varie- gatis 20 „ 40 Fagus sylvatica cuprea Copper Beech 20 „ 40 „ „ pendula ...Weeping Birch ... 20 ,, 40 „ ,, purpurea Purple b«*VL *o 40 Juglans nigra Black Walnut „ regia Common Walnut Laburnum alpi- num Scotch Laburnum „ vulgare Common Labur- num .. Height in Feet. 50 „ 60 40 „ 60 „ „ aureum Watereri Liquidambar Sty- raciiiua Sweet Gum Liriodendron tu- lipifera Tulip Tree Magnolia acumi- nata Cucumber Tree ... „ conspicua ...YulanTree „ Fraseri Mespilus German- ica Common Medlar... and Dutch variety Nottingham var Stoneless var Morus .alba White Mulberry... „ nigra Common Black Mulberry N egundo aceroides crispum ........................ „ ,, variepatum ,, fraxinifolium Ash-leaved Maple Ostrya vulgaris ...Hop Hornbeam ... Pavia rubra . humilis pen- dula Platanus occiden- talis Plane Tree „ orientalis Populusalba Abele Tree „ balsamifera „ fastigiata Lombardy Poplar „ monilifera „ tremula Aspen Tree Punica granatum Pomegranate Pyrus aria White Beam Tree „ aucuparia ...Mountain Ash ,, ,, foliis vane- gatis „ communis ...Pear (wild) „ malus Apple (wild) „ prunitolia Siberian Crab „ sorbus Service Tree „ spectabilis ...Chinese Apple Quercus oerris Bitter or Turkey Oak „ coccinea Scarlet Oak ,, laurifolia ,, pedunculata Common £ngli&b Oak ,, rubra Champion Oak ... ,, sessiliflora Robinia hispida ...Rose Acacia „ pseudo - aca- cia Locust Tree , ,, ,, microphylla Salix Baby lonica Weeping Wiilox . „ fragilis .. „ Russelliana Sambucua nigra... Common Elder ... „ ,, rotundifolia Tilia JEuropeea ... Common Lime or Linden ,, ,, rubra 15 ,1 20 I5 n 20 15 „ 2O 40 „ 60 30 20 „ 30 20 „ 30 10 ,, 20 20 „ 30 l8 „ 25 IS „ 20 30 „ 50 40 ., fir ARBORETUM. ARBORETUM. Height in Feet. Tilia Americana hetero- phylla 25 „ 35 „ „ pubescens 20 ,, 30 Ulmus campestrisEnglish Elm 60 „ 80 „ „ Cornubi- ensis ...Cornish Elm 60 ,, 80 „ „ latifolia 60 „ 80 „ montana Scotch or Wych Elm 30 ,, 50 „ glabra vegeta 60 „ 80 Elms must be introduced sparingly in the arboretum. In the foregoing l;st the ash is purposely excluded, as its roots run along near the surface, starving every tree in the vicinity, and the top is never sufficiently striking to repay the injury the roots inflict. With the elm the case is different ; although a gross feeder, and an indefinite multiplier of greedy roots, its effect in park or pleasure ground scenery is magnificent in the extreme. Arboretum, Shrubs for. It is now necessary to give similar lists of evergreens and deciduous shrubs, merely remarking that as it was impossible to give an exhaustive list of trees, complete in itself and including every variety, so it is equally impracticable to do so in the case of shrubs, and the lists that are given must be regarded as being sufficient and useful representative lists. As many varieties, both of the plain and variegated hollies, should be grown as the spnce at command will allow. There are about fifty varieties grown in most large nurseries, all beautiful and worthy of cultivation. It is desirable for purchasers, before buying, to ascertain what sorts thrive best in their respective neighbourhoods, and to purchase those sorts only. i. EVERGREEN SHRUBS. • Height in Feet. Aucuba Japonica 4 to 8 Berberis aqui- folium Holly-leaved Bar- berry 3 „ 6 „ Darwinii 2 ,, 4 Height in Feet. Berberis dulcis 4 ,, 8 „ Japonica 8 „ 4 ,, Nepalensis 4 ,, 6 ,, Wallichiana 6 „ 10 Buxus sempervi- rens Common Box ... 4 ,, 8 „ „ argentea 4 „ 8 ,, „ aurea 4 „ 8 „ ,, marginata 4 „ 8 Ceanothus azureus 8 „ 10 ,, dentatus 4 ,, 6 ,, Veitchianus 4 ,, 6 Cerasus Lusitan- icus Portugal Laurel 10 ,, 20 ,, laurocerasus Common Laurel 6 „ 10 Cistus Cyprius ... Common Gum Cis- tus 4 ,, 6 „ latifplius 3 „ 4 ,, Lusitanicus 3 „ 4 ,, purpureus 3 ,i 4 Cotoneaster buxi- folia 3 ,, 5 „ rotundifolia 3 ,, 4 „ thymifolia i „ ig Cratsegus pyra- cantha Evergreen Thorn 4 „ 10 Daphne cucorum Garland Flower... i „ i£ ,, Indica rubra 3 ,, 4 „ laureola Sponge Laurel ... 4 „ 6 „ Pontica 4 .1 5 Helianthemum candidum 3 „ — Hypericum calyci- nurn i „ ij Hex aquifolium ...Common Holly... 10 „ 30 and varieties 1/aurus nobilis Sweet Bay 15 ,, 25 „ ,, crispa 15 ,, 20 j, ,, salicifolia 10 ,, 20 Ligustrum luci- dum Chinese Privet ... 8 ,, 12 ,, Japonicum 6 „ 8 „ vulgare cholo- carpum 6 „ 10 ,, ,, sempervi- rens 6 ,, 10 Mahonia * fascicularis 3 „ 8 „ Fortunei 3 ,» 4 „ trifoliata 3 „ 5 Phillyrea latifolia 10 ,, 15 ,, media 10 „ 15 Ruscus aculeatus Butcher's Broom... i „ 2 „ racemosus ...Alexandrian Laurel 4 „ — Spartium junceum Spanish Broom... 8 „ to Tarnarix Gallica... French Tamarisk 5 „ 10 Ulex Europsea Common Furze ... 6 „ 8 p ,, flore-pleno 6 ,, 8 Viburnum tinus ...Laurustinus 8 ,, 10 „ „ lucidum 8 ,, 10 ,, ,, variegatum 8 ,, 10 Yucca filamentosa i ,, 2 „ ,, variegata i ,, a „ gloriosa 3 „ 5 „ „ fol. vane- eatis 3 „ 5 „ superba 6 „ 10 * * Mahonia is a synonym for Bc*-beris, It is stldom u.->cd now. ARBORETUM. ARISTOLOCHIA. 2. DECIDUOUS SHRUBS. Height in Feet. Arabia Japonica 10 to 12 Buddlea globosa 10 ,, 15 „ Lindleyana 4 ,, 6 Calycanthus flori- dus 6 „ „ ovatus 4 „ macrophyllus 6 Ceanothus Ameri- canus 2 Chimonanthus frag- rans 6 ,, grandiforus 6 Cornus alba 6 „ „ Sibirica 6 ,, sanguinea ...Common L>og-wood 8 Coronilla emerus Scorpion Senna ... 3 Daphne MezereumMezereum 4 „ „ album 4 ,, „ autumnalis 2 „ „ rubrum a Deutzia gracilis* 2 „ Corymbosa 4 ,, 6 „ scabra 4 ,, 6 Euonymus Europaeus 15 ,, 20 ,, ,, fructu-albo 12 „ 15 ,, „ nanus 2 ,, 4 Forsythia yiridissima 5 ,, 10 Genista Hispanica £ ,, radiata i ,, tinctoria i Hibiscus Syriacus 5 „ „ albus-plenus 5 „ „ perpureo- plenus 5 ,, „ ruber 5 MM variegatus 5 Hydrangea arbor- escens 4 ,, hortensis Common Hydran- gea 2 „ Japonica 3 Hypericum kir- cunum St. John's Wort ... a and all varieties Ken ia Japonica 3 ,, „ flore-pleno 4 Leycesteria for- mosa 4 Ligustrum vulgare Common Privet!.. 8 „ augustifohum 6 Lonicera casrulea Honeysuckle (Blue-berried)... 3 „ fragrantissima 4 „ punicea a „ xylosteum Fly Honeysuckle 4 Paeoma Moutan ...Paeony 3 all varieties Philadelphus co- ronanus Syringa JO „ „ flore-pleno '. g „ ,, fol. varie- gatis 8 „ grandiflorus a „ latifolius Potentilla fructicosa ....I....".'.'.!". Ribes atro-purpureum '„],"' , „ sanguineum Red Flowering : Currant 4 6 Height in Feet. Ribes sanguineum atro-rubens 4 ,, 6 „ specioisum 4 „ 6 and all varieties Rubus laciniatus Jag-leaved Bramble 8 ,, 2 „ fructicosus ...Common Bramble 8 „ 10 ,, ,, flore-roseo pleno ( lt 10 Spiraea arisefolia fc ,, 8 „ corymbosa a ,, 3 „ grandiflpra 6 ,, — ,, salicifolia 4 M 6 and all varieties Syringa Persica ...Persian Lilac 4 „ 6 „ ,, alba 4 ,, 6 ,, vulgaris Common Lilac 8 „ 10 M M alba 8 ,, 10 „ „ alba-plena 8 ., 10 also „ Charles X. and named varieties 8 „ 10 Viburnum dentatum 4 „ 6 „ lantana ...Wayfaring Tree ... 8 „ 10 ,, „ fol. varie- gatis 8 „ 10 „ opulus Guelder Rose 8 „ 10 „ prunifolium 6 10 Weigela rosea 4 (> g Arbutus, or Strawberry Tree (naf. ord. Ericaceae). A beautiful shrub, which is found in the greatest perfection in the West of Ireland, and along the south coast of Devon and Cornwall. There are many varieties, but the best known is Arbutus Unedo. It bears a small cup-like blossom in clusters, and a round berry varying in tint from orange to red. This berry may be eaten, but there is not much flavour to recommend t. It may be raised from seed. The rarer varieties may be budded or inarched on A. Unedo, for which any ordinary soil will do. Ardi'sia (nat. ord. Myrsin'eae). Stove shrubs, several of which will flourish and fruit in a moderately warm jreenhouse. All require loam and peat ; and they may be increased by cuttings, which root very freely in sand. Ardisia renulaia is a very favourite variety. Its right red berries, which last so long, render t invaluable in a conservatory. Aristolochia (nat. ord. Ariscolochiap). A handsome deciduous climber *.ib ARMERIA. 24 ARTICHOKE. large cordate or pear-shaped leaves. Some varieties, such as Aristolochia sipho are hardy and require no protection, but others are only suitable for the greenhouse, for which they form good pillar plants. The climbers are propagated by division of the roots and by layers, in spring and autumn ; and the herbaceous perennials also by division of the roots. These plants pre- fer a good sandy loam, but peat and loam must be used for the greenhouse varieties. Armeria, Sea Pink, or Thrift (nat. ord. Plumbaginacese). Hardy herbaceous perennials propagated by division of the plant. Formerly it was much used for edging borders. Armeria vulgaris, with rush-like foliage and red flowers, is the crimson thrift of the garden. A. litoralis and A. maritima are found by the sea side. A sandy loam is the most suitable soil for this plant. Artichoke, Globe (Cynara Scolymus). A plant that is grown wholly and solely for its flower heads, which are eaten before they come into bloom. There are two Varieties used for garden purposes, dis- LARGE GREEN PARIS ARTICHOKE. tinguished as the Green and the Purple. It is best propagated by offsets taken in March. The plants bear best the second or third year after planting ; so that it is advisable to plant one or more rows every year, and remove the same quantity of old roots. The ground should be deeply worked and well manured : let the manure be incorporated with the soil, not laid in a mass at the bottom of each trench. It is better to trench the ground first, and fork the manure well into the surface-spit, which gives the plants a better chance of im- mediately profiting by it. The offsets may be dissevered with a knife, or slipped off and cut smooth afterwards, and planted with EARLY PURPLE ARTICHOKE. a dibber. Some plant in threes, a yard apart, and 4 feet from row to row ; or they may be planted singly, 2 feet apart in the row, and from 3 to 4 feet from row to row. They should be well watered, and the ground kept loose between. Salt, when used as a manure, is beneficial for globe artichokes. If grown on stiff land the soil should be lightened by plentiful dressings of sand or road grit. Artichoke, Jerusalem (Heiiantims tuberosus). This is a hardy and profitable vegetable, excellent for culinary purposes, and re- quiring no protection in winter. It likes a light, rich soil, and the ground should be well dug over, and if at all heavy or poor should be lightened by incorporating some sand with it and enriched with well-rotted manure. For planting, small tubers should be chosen, and, indeed, reserved for this purpose when the crop is taken up. These should be set in rows, 3 feet apart, and at a distance of I foot from each other in the rows; they should, moreover, be set 6 inches deep. The ground should be kept ARTICHOKE. ARUM. clean by hoeing, and as the plants grow in height a liitle earth should be drawn up round the stem. The tubers may be left in the ground till wanted for use, or they may be taken up towards the end of November and stored in sand or earth, but they must be covered so that the light and air may be effectually excluded, otherwise they will be of a dark colour when cooked. Those who are fond of this vegetable should make trial of the white-skinned variety, known as the " New White Mammoth," the tubers of which have a clean white skin JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE. instead of the purplish-red tint of the old variety. They are rounder in shape and not so irregular in. form as the tubers of the red sort. The new white variety is perfectly hardy, and in no way liable to injury from frost. Jerusalem artichokes afford a useful screen for a wooden fence when planted along the foot of it. When once planted, the difficulty is to get the ground clear of them again, for the smallest tuber will grow. To obviate this as far as possible, it is desirable to endeavour to leave no tubers in the ground when digging the crop. It is desirable to change the ground allotted to their culture about once in three years, for when they are permitted to remain too long on the same spot the tubers deteriorate in size and quality. Artim (nat. ord. Araceae ; also known as Arum ALthiopicum and Richardia ALthiopicd). This splendid plant, with its snow- white flower, its yellow tongue and arrow- shaped leaves is not hardy with us ; but it admits of an easy cultivation even where there is no greenhouse, and it is so orna- mental in a room or hall, that it is well worth the little trouble which it requires. The Arum grows freely from offsets, which ARUM ITALICUM. are very freely produced. The plants should be repotted every October, in rich, light mould, with a few drainers, the offsets having been carefully removed, and all the old soil well shaken from their roots. From this time till June, or earlier, if the plants have flowered and are off blooming, they should have abundance of water ; but after this they must be kept quite dry, and may be put away in an outhouse till the following October, when the same treat- ment should be renewed. The Arum, in a growing state, requires so much moisture that it is best to keep the pot always stand- ing in a deep saucer full of water. Under ASH. 26 ASPARAGUS. this culture, offsets may be brought into flower in their third year. Other varieties are A. crinitum, A. dra- cuncutus, A. Italicum, and A. maculatum, also known as " Lords and Ladies," or Cuckoo Pint. All are hardy perennials and suitable for outdoor growth, requiring protection only in the winter, in the form of a little litter thrown over the places where they grow. Ash and Chief Varieties. Of the ash, Fraxinus, besides Fraxinus excelsior, the common ash, there are F. pendula, the weeping ash ; F. aurea pendula, the golden weeping ash ; F. aucubafolia, the aucuba-leaved ash ; and F. crispa> the curled ash. Asparagus (nat. ord. Llliacea). Sowing Seed. — This delicious vegetable is a general favourite ; but it is more costly than ordinary vegetables, and for this reason is never greatly in demand. To raise as- paragus from seed, which it yields in abundance, if allowed, in the autumn, the seed should be gathered when fully ripe, ASPARAGUS. hung up to dry, and rubbed out when sufficiently so. It may be sown thinly on ground that has been well dug, but not manured, any time from the beginning of March to June. If sown broadcast, it should be scattered thinly and evenly, and trodden in, and the ground raked over ; if in drills, they should be about a foot apart and an inch deep, the seeds sown thinly, and pressed and raked over. The plants make more root than top the first year; but if they are kept clear of weeds, and the ground stirred often between them, they will grow vigorously the second year, and be fit to plant out the following spring. Beds of asparagus may be made as late as September. Another practice strongly recommended by some cultivators is to sow asparagus seeds at once on the beds where they are to grow. This needs deep trenching and heavy manuring. The beds thus prepared, a line is drawn in the 4-foot beds a foot from each edge, and a foot apart. Upon these lines, at every 12 inches, a few seeds are planted about an inch deep. When the seedlings come up, thin out, leaving only one of the most vigorous plants. A bed thus sown, and carefully weeded and manured, and the surface stirred in autumn and spring, will produce buds in the fourth year, and fine large plants in the fifth year, and will continue to bear for twelve or fourteen years. Making Plantations. — At whatever time it may be determined to make plantations of this vegetable, they should be made on a rich soil, neither wet nor too stiff, but pul- verising readily under the spade. On this soil a coating of rich well-rotted stable manure, three or four inches thick, should be spread, after which the ground should be trenched three spades deep, the manure being buried pretty equally at the bottom spit of each trench. The ground being dug and levelled, divide it into 4-foot beds, with alleys two feet wide between each bed. Planting. — Select strong one-year-old plants without tops, and plant them two rows in each 4-foot bed, the rows a foot from each side of the bed, and the plants a foot apart in the rows. The method of planting is as follows : — Strain the garden- ASPARAGUS. 27 ASPARAGUS. line longitudinally along the beds, a foot from the edge ; then with a spade cut out a small trench or drill verticle to the line, six inches deep. In this trench set the plants upright against the vertical side, so that the crown of the plant stands upright, and two or three inches below the surface of the ground, spreading out the roots against the back of the trench, and drawing' a little earth round the roots with the hand to steady them. When the whole row is planted, with a rake draw the earth into the trench, round the roots of the plants ; then proceed with the next row in the same manner. Management after Planting . — As a plan- tation of asparagus only comes into bearing the third year, it is sometimes customary to sow a thin crop of onions over the beds at the time of planting, afterwards raking the surface of the beds smooth. As soon as they begin to grow, give a good watering with salt -and- water, about the strength of sea- water ; then keep the bed clear of weeds, pulling up all onions, or other sur- face crops, where they come up close to the plants, and the new beds will suffer no injury. Spring Digging and Dressing. — Estab- lished beds of asparagus require top dress- ing every spring, and March is the best month for the purpose. This is done by digging in with a three-pronged fork, with short flat tines, a spring dressing of well- rotted manure, which has been laid on the beds in the previous autumn, more or less thick, according to the state of the beds, loosening every part to a moderate depth, but avoiding the crowns of the plants. This gives free access to the light and air, and free percolation for the water. Im- mediately after this dressing, rake the beds smooth and regular before the plants begin to shoot. Asparagus, Cutting. This is an operation of some delicacy. It should be cut with a saw-edged knife, having a straight, narrow, taper- ing blade, about six or eight inches long, and an inch broad at the haft, rounding off at the point. When the shoots are fit to cut, the knife is slipped per- pendicularly close to the shoot, cutting, or rather sawing, it off slantingly three or four inches below the surface, taking care not to touch any young shoot coming out of the same crown. Asparagus, Forcing. Asparagus is successfully forced in the frame and melon pit ; but the plants are not fit to move before February. The usual plan is to make up a 3-foot bed, and cover it with three inches of loamy soil, before putting on the frame ; this allows more space in- side. When the frame is on, and the bed of a right temperature, a little soil is put at the back of the frame, in the form of a bank, about six inches high, and slop- ing to the front. On this bank, place a row of asparagus roots, laying them almost flat, as this admits of covering them, with- out an undue thickness of soil. When the first roots are laid, cover them with a few inches of soil, and make another bank six inches from the first, on which lay another row of roots ; and so proceed till the frame is full. To maintain the temperature of the bed, fresh manure should be piled up all round it on every side. Asparagus, French Mode of Growing. The French practice is to dig a trench five feet wide and the length of the bed, laying aside the best of the soil tor surface use. On the bottom of the trench is laid, first, six inches of rich stable manure; ASPARAGUS. ASTERS. above it, eight inches of turf; again, six inches of well-rotted dung, and then eight inches of the reserved soil sifted ; over this six inches of thoroughly decomposed manure, and six inches more of the soil thrown aside in making the trench, well mixed together by digging. The beds thus formed are five feet wide, with alleys between two feet wide. The roots are planted in the beds in rows eighteen inches apart, and eighteen inches apart in the rows ; a handful of fine mould is placed under each plant, over which the roots are carefully spread, the crown being an inch and a half below the surface ; a spadeful of fine sand is now thrown over the crown, and the operation is completed. In order to procure an early supply of this delicious vegetable, they first prepare a moderately warm hotbed. On this six inches of rich mould is laid, and a sufficient number of asparagus from an old bed planted. Over this lay a few inches of the same soil, covering the whole with sufficient litter to keep out the frost, or by mats over the frame. The plants will soon start into growth. A little liquid manure applied occasionally will keep up a vigorous growth, and the plants, if properly managed, will be ready to cut by Christmas. YELLOW ASPHODEL, Asphodel (nat. ord. Liliaceae). Plants of this family are mostly hardy herbaceous perennials, with fleshy fascicu- lated roots. The flowers are either white or yellow, and grow on long footstalks, forming stately spikes of bloom. They will grow in any kind of soil, but a rich sandy loam is best fitted to bring them to perfection. They are propagated by divi- sion of the roots. Aspidistra (nat. ord. Liliace»). Plants bearing broad lanceolate leaves on long stalks. The flowers are very small and insignificant, and grow close to the ground. They grow in ordinary soil, and are propagated by suckers. Aspidistra lurida is the best known, and is one of the few plants thai are uninjured by the fumes of gas. •» As'ters (not. ord. Compcs'ita). This splendid class of half-hardy annuals is not only one of the most popular, but also one of the most effective of our garden favourites, producing in profusion flowers in which richness and variety of colour are combined with the most perfect and beauti- ful form. The Aster is indispensable in every garden or pleasure-ground where an autumnal display is desired. In our flower- beds and mixed borders it occupies a deservedly prominent position, whilst for grouping or ribboning it stands unrivalled. The Aster may be divided into two sec- tions— French and German. The French, as improved by Trufifaut, has flat petals either reflexed or incurved ; the former re- sembling the Chrysanthemum, whilst the latter, turning its petals towards the centre of the flower, forms, when well grown, a perfect ball, and is best described by its resemblance to the pseony. The German varieties are quilled, and the most perfect flowers are surrounded by a circle of flat or guard petals, as in the hollyhock. The AUBERGINE. 29 AUCUBA. flowers of these are particularly admired for the exquisite symmetry of their form. The dwarf bouquet varieties of this beautiful plant grow from six to nine inches high, and are particularly adapted for small beds, edgings, or for pot-culture ; they often flower so profusely as to entirely hide their foliage. All the varieties delight in a deep, rich, light, soil, and in hot, dry weather should be mulched with well-rotted manure, and frequently supplied with manure-water; this labour will be amply repaid by the in- creased size, beauty, and duration of the flowers. Culture. Sow about the first week in April, and sow for succession twice more at intervals of a fortnight. Sow in boxes or pans in light, rich, soil, and place under glass in a situation at once airy and sunny. Prick out in pans or boxes, when large enough to handle, using again a rich, light soil, and in about three weeks' time, when they have developed into sturdy plants well furnished with fibrous roots, transplant to the quarters in which they are to bloom. The soil should be dressed with well- rotted manure, and until the plants begin to show flowers a little weak liquid manure may be given with advantage. Auber'gine, or Egg Plant (not. ord. Solana'eeae). Several varieties of these half-hardy vated in the South of Europe. As pot plants they are curious and interesting, being covered in autumn with beautiful egg-shaped fruit ; the scarlet variety is a great novelty. In warm localities they succeed out of doors on a south border. Ctilture, — Seeds should be sown in gentle heat in April, and the young plants, when large enough, should be pricked out in 4-inch pots, and kept in heat until fully rooted. About the middle of June, after being hardened off gradually, they may be placed out of doors in the place in which they are intended to grow. Aubrietia (nat. ord. Cruciferje). Pretty evergreen trailing plants, of which the best known, Aubrietia purpurea, is useful for edging to borders, and for rock- LONG PURPLE AUBERGINE. annuals are eatable, and extensively culti- AUBRIETIA PURPUREA. work, &c. They are propagated by divi- sion of the roots in spring or autumn. A light sandy soil is best suited for them. Aucuba, or Variegated Laurel (nat. ord. Cornaceae). A hardy evergreen shrub originally brought from Japan, well suited for gardens in large towns in which the air is too often too close and smoky. They may be grown in pots for decorative purposes, but do well out of doors in any ordinary soil. Propa- gated by cuttings in spring and autumn set in fairly light soil. AUCUBA. AURICULA. If grown in pots for the sake of deco- ration within doors or in the greenhouse or conservatory, as small plants will be required for this purpose, they should be planted in small pots, well crocked for drainage, in good yellow loam, which must be lightened by the addition of a little sand, coarse sand being preferable to any of the very fine kinds. They must be watered freely when growing, and when the end of spring arrives they should be taken out of doors and the pots placed and hidden in the ground until the summer is over and they are required again for interior decoration. Plants are male or female, and it is the female plants only that produce berries, so when both kinds are in stock, but it is found that for some reason or other the blossoming of the female plant is backward, care should be taken to pre- serve pollen of the male plant for the fertilisation of the female plants' blos- soms. This, we are told, may be effected by transferring pollen of the male plant to a piece of dry glass by means of a camel-hair pencil and covering this with another piece of glass. By this means the pollen may be kept until it is wanted for impregnating the female flowers. Auricula (nat. ord. Primula'cesj). Classification. — This attractive flower, which is one of those that are popularly known as florists' flowers, has been brought by cultivation to a high degree of perfection. Auriculas are divided into two classes, namely, Show Auriculas and Alpine Auriculas, the latter being more hardy and easier to grow and manage than the former. The distinction between Show Auriculas and Alpine Auriculas is easily explained. Taking a pip, or individual flower, from the truss, the name given to a collection of pips on one large flower stalk, we find round the central tube, or thrum, a circle of white, which is called the eye or pasle ; surrounding this is another band, called the ground colour, and beyond this again another zone called the margin or edge. Show Auriculas are classed according to the colour of the edge, there being White-edged, Green-edged, and Grey- edged varieties. If there be no edge beyond the ground colour, it is called a self. Thus there are four classes of Show Auriculas. In the Alpine Auriculas the eye or pasle is yellow ; there is no edge, but the ground beyond the eye is generally shaded, the lighter colour near the eye deepening in some to a darker colour or shade round the edge. AURICULA. Soil, &*<:. — Various composts have been recommended for the auricula, but the best seems to be a mixture of one part of good fibrous loam, and one part of well-decayed spent manure, with a liberal addition of road sand or silver sand, and a sprinkling of charcoal or wood ashes. The pots must be well drained, and small pots should be used, the auricula never doing so well in large pots as in small ones. Thus 4-inch and 5-inch pots are large enough for any full-sized plants. Seedlings and small plants should, of course, be placed in much smaller pots. Propagation, &*c. — When it is desired to raise plants from seed, the seed should be sown in pans at any time from January to March, on the surface of light rich mould. AURICULA. AUSTRIAN BRIAR. well drained, or a compost of leaf mould and sand. Moss should be kept over the surface of the soil till the seedlings are up, to prevent it from drying too quickly, and the moss should be kept moist by sprinkling with a fine syringe. When the seedlings have three or four leaves, transplant into 3-inch pots. Propagation by offsets, or division of the roots, may be effected in February or March, when vigorous growth is being made, or in August, just when fresh growth is commencing after repotting. If the offsets can be removed with roots attached to them, so much the better. They may be placed singly in 3-inch pots, or these may be placed in a larger pot at equal distances near the edge. Management in Summer. — The auricula blossoms and is in full growth from February to June, when the plants should be removed from the glazed shelter under which they have been flowering, and placed in the open air on a shelf or stage, having a north or north-east aspect. Under a north wall or hedge is a good situation. The plants should not stand on the ground itself. In August, when the fresh growth, especially the emission of fresh roots, commences, the plants should be repotted, the tap root being shortened with a sharp knife. A depth of i£ inches should be first filled with small pieces of broken pots, and on this some decayed leaves. The plant should then be introduced, and the pot filled with compost to about £-inch from the rim of the pot. Care should be taken not to allow the collar of the plant to be below the soil. Press firmly, give a little water to settle the soil about the roots, at the expiration of seven or eight days water again sparingly, and then leave the plants to themselves until November. Management in Winter. — In November the plants may be removed under shelter, the shelter being merely that of a glazed roof and sides sufficient to prevent wet, but not air, from reaching the plants. \Yheu they begin to grow in February, or a little later, they should be watered sparingly, the quantity being incneased when the blooming period commences in April. Care should be taken never to allow any water to fall on the foliage, or to settle on the leaves at the base, as this frequently causes decay, and all dead and decaying leaves should be removed from the plants. These directions bear more especially on Show Auriculas, but they are equally applicable to Alpine Auriculas, although these are less susceptible of injury from moisture, and may be grown in the open border. In February, top dress all auriculas in pots. There are in each class many varieties of named plants, but to give a list in detail would take up too much space. Readers are recommended to raise their own plants from reliable seed obtained from florists. Austrian Briar. Austrian Briars, and other yellow roses, are difficult to flower, and require careful management. The old double yellow is remarkably capricious, and the " Cloth of Gold," or '* Chromatella " rose, in which rose-growers expected to find an unrivalled yellow, blooms in perfection only in very few places. " The general direction given," said Mr. Saul, a Bristol grower of con- siderable eminence, " is to grow it in a poor soil, as it is a strong grower. Now, this I consider very questionable advice. It belongs to the group of roses called Noisettes, many varieties of which have been crossed and raised from very dissimilar groups. The large section of tea-scented Noisettes will be found to differ most materially from the original Noisettes, from their affinity to the tea-scented, from which they have been raised. To this section belong the * Cloth of Gold,' ' Solfaterrc,' ' Clara Wendel/ ' Lamarque,' ' Triomphe AUTUMN FLOWERS. AVERRUNCATOR. de Rennes,' and many other fine roses ; ' Solfaterre ' being very little inferior to the ' Cloth of Gold,' both being raised from the same parent. The whole section requires peculiar treatment, approaching in some degree to what we give to the strong- growing tea-scented kinds. " Under the starving system," Mr. Saul continues, " I have seen the ' Cloth of Gold ' so semi-double, small, and worthless, that without positively knowing it, I should have doubted its identity. It is a shy bloomer under this system, covering a con- siderable space of wall, and standing year after year without producing a solitary bloom. I have seen it producing magnifi- cent blooms from buds of the previous season if budded on strong stocks, as the ' Celine ' and ' Manetti ' rose. These buds, after having been headed back the first season, when fifteen to eighteen inches long, should have the leading points pinched out, when the laterals will generally bloom abundantly in the autumn. On the dog-rose stem, growing standard and half-standard high, I have bloomed it freely in the same way ; not that I recommend it for a standard, for it is unsuited for the purpose ; but should any one wish to try it in that way, he should protect the head from extreme cold in winter, pruning hard in spring, and apply- ing liquid manure liberally in spring and summer, stopping all shoots at fifteen or eighteen inches, to induce the lateral shoots to bloom." Autumn Flowers. In addition to the ordinary bedding plants —geraniums, verbenas, &c. — a good display of flowers in autumn requires a free use of autumnal roses, hollyhocks, dahlias, Lilium lancifolium, delphiniums, phloxes, foxgloves, the hardy bamboo, the holy thistle, pampas grass, Arundo Donax, Iritoma, yucca; and for foliage, sundiy kinds of ferns. Averruncator. In order to enable persons engaged in pruning parts of trees at some distance above them with precision, and without the use of a ladder, a contrivance known as the aver- runcator has been introduced. The prin- ciple of this instrument is shown in the accompanying illustration, in the three different forms depicted therein. All agree in the fact that the cutting part of the instrument is fixed at the end of a pole or handle ranging from 5 to 10 feet in length, and actuated by a cord held and worked by one hand, while the instrument AVEKKUNCATOR. is sustained and directed by the other. In I A, the immovable part of the shears — for in 1 point of fact the averruncator is nothing I more than a pair of shears so fashioned as to effect the purpose for which it is wanted, namely, to lop off boughs and branches of some little thickness, when out of reach of ordinary hand tools — consists of a hook, whose inner edge serves to secure and hold the bough ; near the outer edge of this hook a hatchet-shaped blade is fixed by a rivet to the hook itself, and on this rivet it can move freely. A guard behind the hook serves as a guide to keep the cutting blade in position when brought into opera- AXE. 33 AZALEA. tion. At the lower end of the cutting part is a hole, through which passes a strong cord, ono end of which is fastened to the pole, while the other runs over a pulley also set in the pole as shown. When the bough has been hooked the cord is pulled, and the sharp edge of the movable part of the averruncator is brought against the bough, which it severs with a clean cut. The form shown in B is a closer adaptation of the ordinary shears used, as Loudon states, by Dutch gardeners for cutting off young shoots in the summer ; and c exhibits a similar contrivance, with this difference, that the jaws of the shears are held apart when not in use, and forced apart, after the cut is made and the tension of the cord relaxed, by a spring. Averruncators cost about 2 is. each. Axe. This is a powerful tool which is too well known to need much description. It is used chiefly in forestry, in felling trees and in cutting through the large roots when the portion underground below the collar is under removal. It varies in size from the ordinary small hatchet to the woodman's axe, which consists of a broad, wedge- shaped blade, set on the end of a handle from 2^ feet to 4 feet long. It is useful rather in landscape gardening than in gardening proper, or horticulture. Hatchets cost from 2s. to 2s. gd. each ; axes, about double as much. Ayrshire Rose. See Rose, Ayrshire. Azalea (not. ord. Erica'ceae). Beautiful flowering plants, natives of North America, Turkey, and China. The azaleas common in our gardens are deci- duous shrubs, varying in height from 2 ft. to 6 ft. The loftiest of them is Azalea arborescens, which will grow from 10 ft. to 15 ft. in height. With azaleas, as with rhododendrons, the best garden varierte* are hybrids. Azaleas are distinguished as Ghents on American azaleas and Indian or Chinese azaleas. The former are more suitable for open-air culture, but for conservatory decoration the Chinese and Indian azaleas are most important. The azaleas that thrive out of doors are hybrids from Azalea viscosa and A. Pontica ; they are grown in sandy peat mixed with a- little loam, a compost which is suitable for al) varieties. For use in the conservatory A. Indica alba and its hybrids are grown. For flowering in December an early habit must be induced, which may be effected by merely placing them in the conservatory in the autumn They require a similar growing season, after flowering, to the camellia ; and until the shoots are sufficiently numerous, or the plants as large as desired, they can be grown on through- out the entire year, and stopped four or five times during that period. This pushing treatment will, however, sacrifice the blossom ; but if the plants are started early, they can be stopped twice, and yet the terminal buds be sufficiently matured in the autumn to develop flower-buds. After the growth is made, the plants should be gradually hardened off, and be placed during September full in the sun's rays out of doors, to thoroughly ripen their wood. Two parts of peat, two of loam, a sprinkling of sand, and one-sixth part of charcoal that has been steeped in urine or other manure-water suits them well. The drainage should be carefully attended to, the pots being filled to at least one-fourth their depth with crocks. While growing, they will also bear watering with clear weak manure- water every time that they become dry. Azaleas may be removed from the house in June and transferred to a cold frame, or be plunged in an open border until October, when they should AZALEA. 34 AZALEA. again be brought into the conservatory or cool greenhouse. Before housing them foi the winter, examine the plants, and dip them into a tubful of equal parts soot- water, made by throwing half a bushel of soot in soap-suds, and tobacco- water. Repeat this dose three times, and every thrip will either take itself off or die. Indian azaleas bear forcing well, and by inducing an early habit by the aid of the forcing-pit, the luxury of their beauty may be enjoyed in the conservatory or the sit- ting-room for as much as six or eight months of the year. Azaleas should be growing freely in January, if they have been shifted and promoted to a warm place in December. To get early flowering plants some of the more advanced specimens should be introduced to greater heats, while others are retained for a succession to supply the conservatory or window cases. These plants may be obtaitved from any growers, but for greenhouse culture perhaps it will be better to consult Messrs. James Veitch and Son, Royal Exotic Nursery, 544, King's Road, Chelsea, who grow them in great numbers and variety. A list of named varieties is not appended because to give many would occupy too much space, and if a few were named, it is possible that they would be soon supplanted by newer varieties, and so become out of date. BLOSSOM. A ricli arr;iy of fragrant tasteful herbs Did bounteous Nature give : sweet balm to lull The fever-quickened pulse ; basil, plant royal ; And borage, dressing meet for cooling cup." ANON. ABIA'NA (nat. Irida'cese). Dwarf, free-flowering, half-hardy Cape bulbs of in March or October, great beauty, that do well in a sandy, peaty soil, and ord. \ rennial( Melissa ojficinalis} with ornamental foliage, succeeding in any common garden soil. Propagated by divisions of the roots In former times. sheltered sunny situation out of doors, but best suited for cold greenhouse. If planted in open borders the bulbs should be taken up in autumn. When the bulbs are send- ing up leaves and flowers they should be kept well watered. '1 here are many varie- ties, bearing blue, purple, blue and white, dark red, red and white, red and yellow, and yellow blossoms. The best known perhaps is Babiana vil'osa^ with flowers of a delicate violet, blooming in August. j owing to the lemon-like flavour of the Balm (nat. ord. Labia'tae). leaves, it was much used in making a A sweet-scented hardy herbaceous pe- cooling drink, known as balm tea. 35 BALSAM. BARROW. Balsam (nat. ord. Balsamina'cese). Magnificent half-hardy annuals for con- servatory or out-door decoration, producing gorgeous masses of brilliant flowers. Sow in pits in frames in March. When grown in pots, and large specimens are desired, they should be shifted into 10 or 12-inch pots, using the richest compost at com- mand, and the pots plunged in spent hops or tan, and liberally supplied with manure- water ; when used for out-door decoration, the soil should be rich, the plants supported 13ALSAM. with neat stakes, and liberally supplied with manure-water. There are many beautiful varieties of recent introduction known as "camellia flowered" balsam, chiefly white, rose, crimson, violet, scarlet, &c., diversified by spots and shapes of white, and other colours named above; Banksia Rose. See Rose, Banksia. Bark-Bound. A disease of the bank which causes it to crack and exude a kind of gum. Its presence is supposed to be caused by over- richness of soil, or insufficient drainage, for which the remedies are obvious. Scrubbing the stem with strong brine. Some score the bark longitudinally, but this mode of treatment is more harmful than beneficial. Barrow, or Wheelbarrow. The accompanying illustration shows the most useful form of wheelbarrow for the garden. Appliances of this kind for carriage and transfer of mould, manure, garden produce, &c., are made in wood and iron. A good wooden box barrow, made by any country carpenter, will cost from 258. to 303. Iron barrows on the same principle are sold at prices varying from 2os., or even less, to 355. The wheel- barrow may be described broadly as a box open at the top, supported behind by two legs, and in front by a wheel, on which it may be driven forward when the legs are lifted off the ground by means of the handles that project from the hinder part WHEELBARROW. of the barrow, and which usually form part of the frame-work on which the body or box is supported. The back of the barrow is best formed by a movable slide working between ledges nailed on to the insides of the sides of the barrow so as to form grooves for the reception of the slides. The capacity of the barrow for light stuff in the form of litter, leaves, grass, &c., may be increased by having a light wooden frame to fit over the top of the barrow. This should be just large enough to slip over the outside of the barrow, and be held in place by buttons at the side, or by thumb- screws. If made flush with the sides of the barrow it can be secured by hooks and eyes. BARROW. BASKETS. Barrow, Hand. A frame of wood consisting of two long pieces placed lengthways with -the ends fashioned into handles, connected by three shorter pieces placed transversely and tenoned into mortices cut in the longer pieces to receive them. The central part of the frame thus made is covered with hoards from \ m. to f in. in thickness, the whole forming a strong and solid platform KANDBARROW. on which plants in large pots or tubs may be carried from one place to another with- out injury. When a great many plants in small pots have to be carried in the hand- barrow, it is better to add legs to the frame and put a railing round the platform, or furnish it with sides and ends, converting it into a kind of box. Basil. The variety known as " Bush Basil " is the most hardy. It is raised from seed sown in gentle heat in March. Thin out, and give air freely to harden off the plants, which may be removed to a border consist- ing of light, rich soil, and in a warm situa- tion in May or early in June. Baskets as Measures, e derived from the possession of other means. But it does not follow that window plants must be ill-looking because one-sided ; nor should their tendency that way be checked by turning them, as they are weakened thereby. Whether inside 01 outside a window, plants naturally tmn towards the light, as every one knows who has had any practice with them. What- ever means are at command, the main points in window, as in all other plant culture, are perfect cleanliness, a free open soil and good drainage, a tolerably even temperature, and uniform moisture. Where there is a tolerably clear atmosphere, window gardening in this style may be Conducted without glazed coverings, but 'n BASKETS. 40 BEANS. the midst of town smoke and dust glass cases become absolutely necessary, Baskets, Planting. In planting a basket, if it is to be filled with ordinary soft-wooded flowering plants, that is, geraniums, verbenas, petunias, &c. , the soil ought to be two-thirds loam to one of very rotten dung or leaf-mould, and a little sand. If planted with ferns or hard- wooded plan-ts, as Myoporum parvifolium, Monochatun a/pestret pultenceas, and the like, the soil should be one half turfy loam and one half-peat, using rather more sand than for the freer-growing plants. To those who are not acquainted with soils, it may be worth while to observe that good loam is of a yellowish hue, and feels soft and silky to the touch ; it is usually the top spit of meadow land, while peat is obtained in places where heath grows wild. Baskets, Plants of Trailing Habit for. The best plants for suspending in baskets are fuchsias of a pendulous habit, ivy- Itaved geraniums, petunias, and verbenas, which are of rich and varied colours. Saxifraga sarmcntosa, of variegated foliage aii-1 pretty trailing hal>it ; Disandra pros- trata, with pretty yellow musk-like flowers. The common musk is also a very suitable plant ; if a bit is planted in the centre, or some small pieces pricked about the surface, it will soon spread out and hang down the sides. The common Creeping Jenny, or Moneywort (Lysimackia numinularia}, does well and is effective ; also the trailing snapdragon (Linaria cymbalaria), which •vill soon cover a basket and look very pwlty. Basket-Beds in Flower Gar- dens. Basket -beds, especially upon lawns, form a very effective garden ornament. They are constructed with a raised base of wood, iron, brick, stone, or wicker-work, covered with ivy or other creeping plant, and generally having one or two rims bent over at a certain elevation above the bed, to convey the idea of a basket. Of course, the rims or handles are also enwreathed with climbing plants, and the whole have often a most fascinating and graceful appearance. Where they have two handles, the basket might be furnished with four distinct colours, thus : orange, blue, scarlet, white, dividing the basket transversely ; or the colours may be dis- posed in rings, if the beds be large enough, in the order named. Beans. Beans, like peas, can be sown in November, where the soil is light, well drained, and well sheltered ; where the ground is heavy, they may be raised in a pit or name oy sowing three in a 4-inch SEVILLB LONG-POD BEAN. pot, and planted out in March ; but if the soil is cold, and no conveniences are at hand for starting in pots, they may be sown in the following manner : — Let the ground be laid in ridges 3 feet wide, and 15 or id BEANS. BEANS. inches high, ranging east and west ; on the south side of each ridge draw a drill half- way between the top and the bottom, in which sow the beans about three inches apart ; by this means they will be above the wet, catch every ray of sunshine, and will be stronger than if raised under glass and planted out. When about 10 inches high, level the top of each ridge to the row of beans behind it : they will not require earthing up again. If sown in October, a succession may be sown in January, in the same manner ; and so on once a month till June ; they do not bear well if sown after that. Those sown on level ground should have some earth drawn up to the roots when 3 or 4 inches high ; this induces them to emit fresh roots. They are sown in rows about 4 feet apart, which leaves room for a row of broccoli, spinach, or lettuce between ; but those who are not limited as to space had better allow 5 or 6 feet from row to row. On light soils the usual method is to stretch a line along where they have to be sown, and dib holes 4 inches deep, planting a row each side of the line, 4 inches apart, zigzag fashion ; but in wet soils it is better to drill them in, laying boards along the row to stand on, so as to avoid clodding the ground by treading on it. The sort usually grown for first crop is the Early Mazagan ; but the Early Long- pod is equally early and prolific, and larger ; so are the Seville and Giant Long-pod, for maincrop. The Broad Windsor Bean is a well-known and good old variety. Whatever sort is grown, the culture is the same ; but as beans are not a favourite vegetable with many persons, it should be carefully considered how much ground can be devoted to it without encroaching upon the space required for more important crops. A crop which is not required involves a loss of time, space, and nourishment withdrawn from the soil. For varieties qf aU Iqnds of b.ea,n.s tfee reader should consult the catalogues (A the growers. New varieties are being frequently introduced ; so it is better to tell those who consult this volume where to look for sorts than to take up space by inserting them here. Beans, French or Kidney. These beans, which are sometimes distin- guished as haricot beans, require a light, rich, loamy soil, and should be planted in an open situation. In out-door culture the seed should not be sown until the middle of April in sunny spots, or in the beginning of May in positions not so open to the sun, and from this time crops may be sown in succession once a fortnight, or thereabouts, until the end of July. Plant in rows from 1 8 inches to 2 feet apart, and from 9 to FRENCH BEAN, "CANADIAN WONDER.** 12 inches apart in the rows. Put at least three seeds in each patch, lest any should fail ; if all grow, two can be removed ; if none grow, the deficiency must be supplied by transplanting from a patch sown for the purpose. It is better, however, to sow more plentifully than to transplant, as this operation tends to check the plants. The seed should be dibbled in to the depth of an inch. As the beans grow, draw the soil up round each plant as high as possible. Beans, French or Kidney, Forced. When forced, kidney beans may be had BEANS. 42 BEDDING PLANTS. at any time of year, whether early or late. They may be grown on a hotbed, but they are better grown in pots, or they are apt to run all to haulm and leaf. In an ordinary hotbed, as if made for cucumbers, place as many 6-inch pots as will stand 15 inches apart. These pots being filled with good loamy soil, in each plant, triangularly, three Canadian Wonder beans, or Daniel's First Early, which are of small dwarf habit and great bearers, and, as they grow, give them regular waterings ; but they need not be removed, and the heat should never fall below 60°. They are very sus- ceptible of frost, and will require careful protection from it, in common with all forcing plants. Nothing can be better for covering the lights than hurdles made of lath and straw. If sown in January or February, they, will bear in April or May. They sometimes require supporting with sticks. Beans, Runner. As Runner Beans grow to a considerable height, they cannot be conveniently forced like the dwarf sorts, though this might be effected by constantly pinching off the lead- ing shoots, and thus compelling it to assume and maintain a dwarf, bushy growth. The soil should be light and rich as for peas and other varieties of beans, and the situation sunny and open. Plant in double rows 9 inches apart, dibbling in single seeds to the depth of 2 inches and 9 inches apart in the rows. At least 6 feet should be allowed between each series of double rows. Means for the plants to climb must be afforded by pole£ stuck in the ground along each row, inclined towards each other till they cross at the top, and secured by tying with tarred cord to horizontal sticks dropped into and along the crossing of the poles in the earth, from end to end of the row. If there is not piuch roonij the seed may be set in single rows, about 3 feet apart, and kept dwarf by pinching the leading shoots. If this style of growing them be adopted, no sticks will be required. Another mode is to place hurdles along the rows, on which the runners may climb to the height of the hurdles. Runner beans are often sown in a mass, in a pan or box in richly-manured soil, in the middle of April, and kept under shelter SCARLET RUNNER BEAN. until the middle of May, when they are planted out in the garden. By this means the crop may be obtained a little earlier. These beans are often utilised for covering fences, and yield plentifully when sown or planted in such positions. Those known as Scarlet Runners are so called from the scarlet flowers which they bear. The White Dutch Runners have white blossoms and a third sort, known as Painted Ladies, have scarlet and white blossoms. Bear's Breach. See Acanthus. Bedding Plants. Plants commonly known under the name of bedding plants consist of the common scarlet and other geranium^, verbena^ BEDDING PLANTS. BEDDING PLANTS. petunias, calceolarias, lobelias, and others ; indeed all sorts of trailers and creepers used for covering beds in summer and autumn are so named. Most of these latter require pegging down ; and in wet seasons, when the plants are apt to run too much to leaf, the lower extremities of the shoots may be slightly bruised, which will check their growth and promote flowering. Beds for all the ordinary bedding plants should be well drained, and the soil light and rich. To grow bedding plants in perfection, the beds should have a dressing of manure annually, or a heavier application every second year. It would be almost as reasonable to attempt to grow two crops of cabbages in succession, without en- riching the soil, as two crops of bedding plants. Many of them exhaust the soil more than any crop whatever ; and to grow them rapidly, and in perfection, the beds must be liberally manured. Bedding Plants, Culture and Management of. Bedding out plants are plants v/hich will thrive and do well in the open air in summer, but which require protection during the winter. Half-hardy annuals are found among them, but they consist for the most part of herbaceous plants, which are, or may be, propagated by cuttings. The propagation of many of these plants, which are favourite tenants of the greenhouse and conservatory, will be touched on in the special articles devoted to their culture under the name of each as heading. Speaking generally of their management as a class, it is desirable that all cuttings taken in the late summer to become rooted before the arrival of winter, should be taken early enough to allow of the formation of a good mass of roots before the plants are consigned to winter quarters. Thus, the best time for taking cuttings of geraniums, verbenas, &c., is from the middle of July to the middle of August, during which time they may be stuck in the open border or a close frame, but when deferred to September the cuttings should be plunged in slight bottom heat. Calceolarias, however, may be subjected to different treatment. The cuttings may be taken in September, and even later, and they may be wintered with no more protection than that which is afforded by a cold frame. Bedding Plants, Hardening Off and Planting Out. No plant that has been an inmate of a cold frame or glazed structure of any kind during the winter can be removed from shelter at a moment's notice, and placed with impunity in the open air. Before removal from winter quarters into the beds in which they are to bloom, air should be given as freely as possible all day and every day, weather permitting. By this salutary exposure plants will ex- perience no check when moved out. The transfer of bedding plants to the open may begin about the middle of May, or even sooner, if the weather be warm, but if cold and unpropitious, which is often the case in May, it should be deferred till June. Good soil is desirable for bedding plants, but it should not be too rich. Bedding Plants, List of. The plants comprised in the following list are those which are most commonly used as bedding plants. It will be noticed that the list comprises plants that may be raised from seeds, as well as cuttings, and some that are tender annuals. It may be said that Antirrhinums, Cerastiums, Del- phiniums, and Penstemons, being hardy, require no protection in winter, as do the others. BEDDING PLANTS. 44 BEDS. Ageratums,— various sorts. Alstromerias, — various sorts. Anagallis, — various sorts. Antirrhinums,— of all colours. Bouvardias, — dwarf shrubby plants, scarlet, white, &c., scented. Obtained from cuttings in spring. Calceolarias,— shrubby varieties. Cerastium tomentosum. Cineraria maritima, — 18, grown chiefly for foliage. Sow under protection in December. Cuphea platycentra, — 12, scarlet, black, and white, with other varieties, from seeds or cuttings. Dahlias, — dwarf varieties. Delphinium formosum, — and other varieties. Geraniums, — all varieties. Echeverias, — perennial succulents. Heliotropum Peruvianum. Lantanas, — various sorts. Lobelias, — various sorts. Lophospermums, — various sorts. Maurandya Barclayana. Mimulus, — many varieties. Nasturtiums,— dwarf varieties. Nierembergias,— all varieties. CEnotheras, — dwarf varieties. Penstemons,— of all colours. Salvias, — many varieties. Senecio elegans, — various colours. Tracheliums, — blue and white. Tropaeolums,— dwarf and double varieties, not climbers. Verbenas, — various colours. Bedding Plants, Treatment of, in Winter Quarters. With cuttings of bedding plants under protection during the winter it must be remembered that vegetation is still going on. They are still growing, though not actively, or perhaps apparently, and there- fore they must have light constantly, and air whenever the state of the weather is such as to allow of its free admission and circulation. If due ventilation and circu- lation of air is prevented, and the atmos- phere of the house, frame, or pit is allowed to get unJ'ily moist, the plants will "damp off." The pots in which cuttings are placed for the winter must be well drained, to prevent any stagnation at and about the roots. The temperature should not be allowed at any time to fall below 35°, and in frosty weather it should be maintained by gentle fire heat, which, in combination with the admission of the external air, may be made use of to keep the house dry, even in the coldest weather, the presence of the heat mitigating and tempering the cold- ness of the air that is admitted. Bedding Plants, When to take cuttings of. As a rule, cutting of all bedding plants are better taken from the middle of July to the middle of August. Geraniums may be rooted in the open border in July and August, and in gentle heat in September, in which month cuttings of ageratums, calceolarias, and salvias are best taken, though calceolaria cuttings will root in a cold frame if placed therein even as late as November. For cuttings in early spring, old stocks must be placed in gentle heat and induced to grow, and when sufficiently large the young shoots may be taken off in cuttings, to be rooted also in gentle heat. Half-hardy annuals should be sown in July and August, and kept under protection in frames and pits during the winter. Beds. Divisions of a flower-garden formed in different-shaped figures. The following are some of the most pleasing varieties : — Beds, Basket, of Ivy. — These have a pretty appearance on grass plots, and may be made round or oval, according to fancy. A frame of wicker-work should be made, the shape of the bed, about one foot or \\ foot high, around which, on the outside, should be planted, quite thick, either the large Russian, or the small-leaved and variegated ivy. In a year or two, with little care and attention, the wicker-work will be quite covered, when the ivy must be well cut in, and the earth in the basket may be raised or not at pleasure. With a little trouble, the ivy may be made to trail over wands, and form a handle to the basket. Beds, Cross-shaped. — The various sorts of crosses also form very ornamental beds, BEDS. 45 BEDS. and have this advantage over fanciful figuies, that they may easily be designated by their particular names. Nothing is more brilliant than a Maltese-cross bed, filled in each separate compartment with different shades of verbenas, or in the opposite com- partments with the small dark blue lobelia and Gazania splendens. The St. Andrew's cross also forms a nice bed, and so do the different forms of upright crosses, when the stem and the transverse are filled with flowers of such shades and colour as contrast well with each other. Beds, Leaf -shaped. — Some of the prettiest beds for lawns may be made by cutting them out into the natural form of the leaves of trees, shrubs, and plants. The form of the common ivy-leaf makes a very pretty bed, so does the heart-shaped ivy ; also the oak, the maple-leaf, the horseshoe geranium, and an endless variety of others. Beds so formed have this advantage, that they can be called by the name of the different trees, shrubs, and plants, from which they have been taken. Beds, Oak and Holly. — Acorns sown very thick round a bed in a drill about 2 or 3 inches wide, in the course of a year or two form a very pretty edging ; and, owing to the thickness with which they stand, with an occasional clipping, the small oaks may be kept 4 or 5 inches high, arid in this manner have a very good effect. Hollies also may be used the same way ; but in this case it is better to raise the plants on a seed-bed, and transplant them to the bed for which they are required as an edging, when about 2 or 3 inches high. They may be kept dwarf by cutting, and will not become too large for their position for some years. Beds, Tile, for Grass-plots.— These form very pretty and very ornamental objects made on grass borders, or on lawns of kitchen or mixed gardens. The tiles, or pipes, as they are called in some parts of the country, should be of bright red clay, twelve inches long and about three inches in diameter, and all carefully formed in the same mould. These should be placed upright in a circle, or any other figure, buried, according to taste, about four to six inches in the ground ; the earth and the beds being raised to the level of the outstanding part of the tiles. A very effective centre bed can be made with these tiles in three tiers, the edges of each tier being built in scallops, and a border left about one and a half or two feet in diameter. These three borders have a beautiful effect when filled with different plants. Take, for instance, Calceolaria aurea floribunda for the top department ; Blue Lobelia for the middle border and Scarlet Geranium for the lowest. -These beds have an agreeable appearance even in winter when cleared, on account of the contrast between the bright red tiles and the grass ; and in spring they may be made very gay with hyacinths, crocuses, and other bulbs. Beds, Tent. — These are formed by the aid of chains, flexible wires, or ropes. Drive a tall stake of the desired height, say 10 feet high, in the centre ; describe a circle with a radius of, say, 8 feet. Insert six or eight stakes at equal distances on this line, say 6 feet high ; join the centre stake to each side one with a chain or wire, and the frame of a tent bed is formed. Beds, Curvilinear, Formation of. I. Egg-shaped or Ovate Bed.—1\\e. method of forming an egg-shaped bed exhibited in Fig. i will be found useful. First set out the straight line AB, equal to the greatest width of the bed required. Divide it into two equal parts in the point C, and through C dra\v the straight line DE, of indefinite length, at right angles to BEDS. AB. Then from the point c, where AB and DE intersect each other with the FIG. I. — EGG-SHAPED BED radius CA or CB, describe the circle AFB. Next, taking A and B as centres, with AB and BA as radii, describe the arcs BH, AK, and from the same points A and B draw through G— one of the points in which the circle AFBG cuts the straight line DE — the straight lines, AL, BM, respectively, cutting the arc BII in the point o, and the arc AK in the point N. Lastly, from G as centre, with the radius GN or GO, describe the arc or quarter circle NO, which completes the A FIG. 2. — BED FORMED BY SEMICIRCLES DESCRIBED ON SIDES OF SQUARE. figure. The outline of the bed thus ob- tained is shown by the solid line. 2. Bed of Semicircles on Sides of , ' Square. — To form this bed the first step to be taken is to lay out two straight lines, AB, CD, as in Fig. 2, inter- secting each other at right angles in E. Then from E as centre, with any length of radius that- may be deter- mined upon, describe the circle *GHK. In this circle inscribe a square, FGHK, and from the points, L, M, N, O, in which the sides of the square intersect the straight lines AB, CD, describe the arcs FPG, GQH, HRK, KSF. A bed of the form shown by the solid arcs of circles will then be formed, consisting of four semicircles described on the four sides of a square. The simplest method of con- struction is to lay out a square first of all, as FGHC, next to bisect the four sides of the square in the points L, M, N, o, and from these points as centres to describe the semicircles FPG, GQH, HRK, and KSF, that form the bed ; but the more elaborate mode of procedure has been given because it is suggestive of the formation of other beds — as a crescent, formed by the solid arc FPG and the dotted arc FG, which is a fourth part of the circumference of the circle FGHK. Other forms are those which are bounded by the solid arc FPG, and the clotted arcs FE, GE, or by the dotted arcs FG, GE, EF. 3. Semicircular Ribbon or Horseshoe Bed. — In Fig. 3, a semicircular ribbon bed is shown. To lay out a bed of this form, a straight line, AB, equal in length to the distance between the outer edges of the border, is drawn, and this is divided into any number of equal parts, according to the width of the bed that it is intended to make : if narrow, a greater number of parts will be required ; if wide, less. In this case it is supposed to be divided into four equal parts, in the points c, D, and E. 47 BEDS. From the centre, D, at the distance, DA, describe the semicircle AHB, and from the same centre at the distance DC describe the semicircle CKE. Bisect the lines AC, EB, in the points F and G, and from these points as centres, with the radii FA and GB, describe the semi- circles ALC, BME, which complete the end of the bed. A bed of horseshoe dividing AB into two equal parts in M, and from M as centre, with the distance MA on MB, describing the dotted circle FIG. 3. — SEMICIRCULAR RIBBON OR HORSESHOE BED. form may be produced by extending the circumferences of the circles AHB, CKE, and forming the extremities of the bed, by drawing straight lines as DN, DO, intersecting the circumference of the circles. From Fig. 3, it may be easily seen how to form a bed of an 5> or ser' pentine form, by repeating the process already described on the line AB produced towards A or B, or continuing it on the lines DN or DO produced towards N or O. 4. Serpentine Bed. — A bed in a serpen- tine form is shown in Fig. 4 which is very easily laid out. Firstly, a straight line, equal to the length of the bed from end to end, as AB, is marked out, and this is divided into three equal parts in the points c and D. The divisions AC, DB, are again subdivided into two equal parts in the points E and F. From E and F, as centres, with radii EA, FB, the semicircles AGC, BHD are described, and from c and D as centres, with radii CA and DB, the semi- circles AKD, BLC, are described, com- pleting the outline of the bed. By FIG. 4.— SERPENTINE BED. AN BO, a bed of a curved pear-shaped form is obtained, as AGCLBO. The fault of the serpentine bed shown by the solid lines in Fig. 4 is that it is too sharp at the ex- tremities. Another serpentine form that has not got this fault is shown in Fig. 5. In this the straight line AB is divided, as in the above, into three equal parts, and FIG. 5. — ANOTHER FORM OF SERPENTINE BED. each of these parts is again subdivided in E, G, and F. Perpendiculars on opposite sides of AB are erected to AB at E and F, as EH and FK. In EH, take EL, equal to EA or EC, and in FK take FM, equal to FB or FD. Join LM, and from L through c BEDS. BEDS. draw LN, and from M through u draw MO. Then from L as centre, with radius LC, describe the arc ACT, and from M as centre, with radius MD, describe the arc BDQ, and next from the same centres, with radii LQ, MP, describe the arcs QR, PS. Join AR, us, and bisect them in T and u ; erect perpendiculars TV, ux, to AR, BS, at the points T and u, and from v and x (where these perpendiculars cut LR, MS) as centres, with radii VR, xs, describe the arcs AR, BS, which complete the figure. 5. Cordate or Heart-shaped Bed. — A cordate or heart-shaped bed is formed as in Fig. 6 by dividing a line AB into four equal parts in the points D, c, E. Then from D and E as centres, with radii DA and by describing the semicircle AQB from c as centre, with radius CA or CB, and the semi- circles ATN, NRO, and OVB, from M, c, and P as centres, a fan-shaped figure enclosed by dotted lines is obtained, and by completing the circle AQBS, a bed similar to that shown by the diagram illustrative of a horseshoe bed (which see), I but in different proportions, is exhibited. . Lastly, by the larger and small semicircles disposed about the straight line AB, a bird- j like figure, with symmetrical wings, is I shown ; and another bed, bounded by the j semicircles AFC, CGB, above the line AB, j and the semicircle ASB below it. All these forms may prove useful in various positions, and will suggest modes of setting out geometrical gardens in curved lines. Beds, FIG. 6. — HEART-SHAPED AND' OTHER BEDS. DB, the semicircles AFC, CGB, are described, and from the same points as centres, with radii DB, EA, the arcs BLH, AKH, are de- scribed, which intersect each other in H, and complete the figure. By dividing AB into six tqual parts in the points M, N, c, o, P, and Rectilinear, How to Form. Everybody, it is presumed, knows how to make a circle, and all rectilinear figures whose sides subtend or connect by means of a straight line the extremi- ties of part of a circle are formed by the division of its circumference into different parts. For instance, a pentagon is a circle whose circumference is di- vided in five, a hexagon six, a heptagon seven, an octagon eight, and so on. If the operator is not furnished with a pair of large compasses, all regularly curved lines can be described by a cord running loosely round a strong stake in the centre of the curve, and the divisions of the circumference can be easily made to furnish the polygon required by means of straight lines drawn from point to point. All regular figures, from an equi- lateral triangle to anoctogan, are represented in Figs, i, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6. The hexagon, as in Fig. 4, is the easiest figure to construct, because the circle in which it is inscribed may be divided into six equal parts without any alteration of the width between the CYCLAMEN. BEDS. 49 BEDS. extreme point of the legs of the compasses, i right angles to each other. The points in because any and all the sides of a hexagon are exactly equal to the radius of the circle on which it is inscribed. Thus, if FIG. I. — EQUILATERAL TRIANGLE. the radius of the circle be 3 feet, each side of the hexagon inscribed in it will be 3 feet, and so on. The equilateral triangle in Fig. i is equally easy to describe, when it is said that the circumference of the circle may be divided into six equal parts as for a hexagon, and the triangle com- FIG. 2. — SQUARE. pleted by drawing straight lines between the intermediate points. The four points of a square, as in Fig. 2, may be easily determined by drawing or marking out on the ground two straight lines of sufficient length, and from the point of their inter- section as a centre describing a circle cutting the straight lines already drawn at 5 which the circumference of the circle cuts the straight lines at right angles to each other are those which must be joine-1 by FIG. 3.— PENTAGON. drawing straight lines between each pair of adjacent points in ordtr to form the square. The pentagon and heptagon, as in Figs. 3 and 5, can be readily determined by geometrical process, but as they are too long to enter on here, the points of division in the circumference of the circle must be determined by trial. The octagon., FIG. 4.— HEXAGON. as in Fig. 6, can be easily made by de- scribing a square within a circle first of all, and then dividing into two equal parts eacb portion or arc of the circumference sub- tended by a side of the square. When straight lines are drawn from point to point in succession of the eight points thus found, the octagon will be formed. BEDS. BEET. All that has been said above will be apparent on examination of Figs. I to 6 inclusive, but if the reader will look closely at each of these figures, and note FIG. 5. — HEPTAGON. the effect of the dotted lines drawn across them from point to point, he will see how many additional regular figures may be gained from them. These figures are indicated by the shaded parts, the original figure in each case being bounded and contained by solid black lines. Thus, the overlapping of two equal and similar FIG. 6.— OCTAGON. equilateral triangles, as in Fig. I, forms a six-pointed star, and a similar disposition of two squares, as in Fig. 2, gives an eight-pointed star. By drawing straight lines from each point of the pentagon, as shown in Fig. 3, to the extremities of the gide that is opposite to it, a five-pointed star, known in heraldry as a mullet, is obtained. A similar procedure with regard to the hexagon gives a six-pointed star of the same form as that shown in Fig. 2, or three equilateral triangles meeting in a point, as shown by the shaded parts in Fig. 4. Finally, by treating the heptagon in the same way as the pentagon was treated, a • seven-pointed star is formed, as in Fig. 5 ; and Fig. 6 suggests the formation of four rhomboidal beds meeting in a point which should be divided by an intervening space of turf. Beech and Chief Varieties. Of the beech, Fagits, Fagus sylvatica, the common beech, is a fine tree and exceedingly useful, as it will grow well in both sandy and chalky soils. It is surpassed, however, by several of its varieties : P. aspleniifolia, the fern-leaved beech, and F. purpurea major, the large purple beech, are nobler trees. Beet, Bed. This vegetable, which is generally known as beetroot, should be sown at the beginning of April, in deep rich ground, fully exposed to the sun, and quite open and away from trees. Sow the seed in shallow drills, 15 inches apart, and drop three or four seeds at intervals of 10 inches or a foot apart, or sow thinly along the drill : cover, tread, thin, and rake the ground roughly with a wooden rake, drawing off large stones, &c., that may be on the surface. Sowing this seed in drills is preferable to sowing broadcast, because it not only gives greater facility for thinning out and using the hoe bet ween, but it insures a regular crop without wasting the seed, the plants being at regular distances. When the plants are about a foot high, thin them to not less than a foot apart, leaving the best-coloured rather than the strongest plants ; for the better it is, the less likely it is to grow BEET. BEGONIA. Strong and large. Large roots are not esteemed, being deficient in flavour. The roots should be lifted in October, before the frost sets in, for this is injurious to them. In taking them up, care should be taken not to break the tap root, or puncture them in any way, for damage of they may be cultivated is equal to their beauty. If raised from seed, all they require is a good rich loamy soil, mixed with a litile sand, and a liitle bottom heat to start them — say from 65° to 70°. The seeds should be scattered on the surface of the soil, and not buried beneath it. The young plants should be shaded when the sun is hot and the light bright. Either hotbed or stove answers every purpose, provided there is a conservatory or greenhouse in which they can be flowered ; the chief requirements being heat, moisture, and shade. Particular varieties may be propagated by means of leaf cuttings, which consist of well- UEKLS CRIMSON BEET. this kind tends to deprive them of their colour when boiled. When taken up, the leaves should be trimmed off, and the roots kept in sand, so as to be perfectly dry and free from the hurtful influence of wet or damp. Beet, Spinach or White. The culture of this variety, which is grown for the sake of its leaves and leaf stalks, that are eaten like spinach in autumn and winter, is similar to that of beetroot or red beet, but a second sowing should be made in July or August, to l>e available for the winter months and spring. BegO'nia (««/. ord. Begonia'cese). There are no plants more worthy of admission into a conservatory than begonias, and the facility with which BEGONIA REX. matured leaves scored with the point of a sharp knife across the larger nerves on the lower side. These should be laid on sand or cocoanut fibre and held in place by small pebbles or pieces of broken pot. Under this treatment buiblets will form at the ends of the nerves, and these, when large enough, must be removed and potted. The tuberous species are propa- gated by division of the roots and by cuttings. There is a delicious fragrance about some of the spec'es, which particularly recommends them for cultivation ; others are recommended by their richly- variegated foliage and graceful habit, and the* all BELL GLASS. 5~ BELLADONNA LILY. hybridise with great facility. The following are a few choice sorts selected from more than 350 species known to botanists : — B. amabilis, — the bright banded leaves very glossy and shining. B. argentea, — the upper surface of the leaf of a pure delicate white. B. fuchsioides, — remarkable for its graceful habit. B. Griffithii, — richly variegated, with colours shading beautifully into each other. B. manicata, — produces a large mass of flowers at one time in the early spring. B. nitida, — an almost perpetual bloomer, one plant having had three or four cymes of flowers always open for three years. B. octopetala, — a tuberous-rooted winter flower- ing species, with large pure white blossoms. B. odorata, — remarkable for the fragrant odour, from which it derives its name. B. rex, — a beautiful species, with rose-coloured flowers, and foliage variegated, with dark green edges and centre, and silvery belt between, from which many good varieties with variegated leaves have been produced. B. splendida, — grown for its crimson velvety young leaves, which lose their beauty, however, as the plant approaches maturity. B. splendida argentea,— equally beautiful; a pink tinge shining through the silvery hue of the leaves. B. xanthina, — in which green bands follow the principal veins, the spaces between being pure white. B. xanthina Lazuli, — having copper -coloured leaves, shining with a fine metallic lustre. B. xanthina pictifolia, — the copper-coloured leaves relieved with large distinct white blotches. Many other begonias, both distinct species and hybrid varieties, are in culti- vation, nearly approaching these in beauty ; but few, if any, will be found to exceed them. For named hybrid varieties, which are very numerous, the reader is referred to the price lists of the principal florists and growers, and especially Messrs. James Veitch and Son, Royal Exotic Nursery, 544, King's Road, Chelsea. Bell Glass or Cloche. This appliance is much used by French gardeners for the protection and culture of lettuces and small vegetables of this cha- racter during the winter and early spring. Its form is shown in the accompanying illustration. It is usually made of a greenish kind of glass, and may be had in various sizes, large enough, in fact, to cover a cauliflower. Bell glasses, or hand glasses, are made in different shapes, some being of the form shown in the illustration, some cylindrical, some tall and narrow, and others broad and shallow ; but what- ever may be their form the purpose to which they are put, namely, that of covering and protecting tender vegetables, seedlings, etc., cuttings, and patches of seed that have not yet germinated, is in all cases the same. They may be obtained BELL GLA&S OR CLOCHE. of Messrs. James Carter and Co., 237, High Holborn, W.C., or of Messrs. Breffit and Co., 83, Upper Thames Street, E.C., by whom they are manufactured. Useful sizes may be bought at led. and is. each. It must be remembered that no means of ventilation are provided in bell glasses, and that as growing plants require air the bell glass should be tilted when the weather admits, and supported on a stone or notched stick. Belladon'na Lily (nat. ord. Amaryi- lida'cese). This is an amaryllis ; the flower, in some cases, is pale pink, and in others almost white, flushed with rose-purple, very hand- some. The bulbs should be planted in June or July in good fibrous mould mixed with fine sand and leaf mould at a depth of about eight inches below the surface, and when once planted the bulbs should be left undisturbed. The flower stems are always BELLOWS. 5.5 BELLOWS. thrown up first, the leaves appearing at a BELLADONNA LILY. later period. The bulbs succeed equally well in large pots in a cool greenhouse. Bellows, Dusting. Sometimes it is desirable to clear plants of insects by applying to them sulphur, lime, tobacco, etc., in the form of very fine powder, and if it be desired to scatter the powder on the under part of the leaves, a dusting bellows must be used. This is similar to the common bellows, but instead of the lower board and leather valve there attachment of the leather and of the tin- plate receptacle with which the bottom board is covered. This is planished or beaten into a convex form, so that the edges may be attached to the edge of the bottom board or nailed to a ledge screwed on to it. The front of this receptacle,, which terminates at the end of the bottor i board, is semicircular in form, or nearly sc> as shown at A. In the centre is an orifice1 closed with a cap, for the introduction o* the powder, and on each side of this orifice is a small hole and leather valve. Whe~ the top board of the bellows is raised the1 leather valves open and air rushes in', setting the light powder in commotion in the interior of the bellows. When it is pressed down the valves close, and the air and powder in the bellows is driven out on and over the plant to which the nozzle of the bellows is directed. Bellows, Fumigating. When there is no personal objection to the smell of tobacco, fumigation can be effected by more simple means, and tho moke brought to bear in a direct current on the infested plants. A small pair of bellows must first be provided, and on the nozzle of this instrument must be fitted a XG BELLOWS. is a different arrangement. This is shown in the accompanying illustration, in which the larger engraving exhibits a side view of this kind of bellows, and the other a view partly front and partly sectional. The bottom board has its central portion taken away, leaving about I inch or a little more all round the edge. This serves for the box made of tin, having a pipe at the bottom part for attachment to the bellows, and another pipe issuing through the top part, through which the smoke is driven. This appliance is shown in the accompany- j ing illustration, in which A is the pipe I which fits on to the nozzle of the bellows, B the box in which the lighted tobacco i* BENTIIAMIA. 54 BIENNIALS. £ut, c the cover of the box with a pipe, D, projecting from it, terminating in a small orifice, and E a fine rose which may be placed on D for the dissemination of the smoke in several broken streams or a small cloud, instead of one dense stream. The FUMIGATOK FOR ATTACHMENT TO BELLOWS i brought to bear on the burning tobacco by 'the action of the bellows, and by the same :action the smoke is driven out on the -.plants. winter, and kept there at least until April, when they may be removed to their bloom- ing quarters. It is desirable to winter some stocks in a cold frame in pots, lest the winter prove too inclement for them and they be carried off by frost. Companula medium * (Canterbury Bell), 24, blue-violet, white. Companula pyrami- dalis, * 36, pale blue. Dianthus barbatus * tobacco beinc lighted, and the instrument , (Sweet William}, 15, various. .... Digitalis purpurea * (.h oxglove), 36, white, attached to the bellows, a current of air is purple, both marked with spots. Many varieties. Hedysarum coronarium, * (French Honey- suckle], 24, purplish red. Humea elegans, 60, profuse panicles of red colour. Ipomopsis (or Gilia) elegans, 36, orange, bright red. Lunaria biennis * (Honesty), 18, violet-purple. Seed pods used as everlasting flowers. Lychnis coronaria, * 18, rosy purple. Dout variety propagated by division after flowering. Mathiola incana (Giant or Brompton Stock), 24, red, purple, violet, brown, and white. CEnothera Lamarkiana, 40, yellow. ,, taraxacifolia, 12, trailer, white, tinted rose, and sweet-scented. Bentha'mia (««/• ord. Corna'ceae). An ornamental profuse-flowering half- hardy shrub, the flowers succeeded by reddish-yellow, strawberry-like fruit, which is eatable. It may be grown in the open air in South Devon, Cornwall, or the Scilly Isles, but is scarcely suitable for higher ' latitudes unless grown against a south wall and in places near the south coast. It likes a rich moist loam, and may be propagated by seeds sown soon after attaining ripeness in a cool greenhouse, or by layers put down about September or October. A good example is found in Benthamia fragifera, a species with large cream-coloured flowers, 10 feet in height. Biennials, List of. The following is a brief list of biennials, desirable for the garden and borders. Those that are more hardy than the generality of biennials, and need no pro- tection, are distinguished by a star. Those that are not so marked should be protected in cold pits or frames during the winter, and not planted out until all fear of injury fiomi frost has passed. Stocks should be placed in a sheltered border during the Double Scabiosa atropurpurea * {Mournful Widow), 1 8, velvety purple ; and others. Silene compacta, 18, rose, Trachelium caeruleum, 18. Plant suitable for rockwork, yielding small blue flowers. Biennials, Management of, etc. The difference between annuals and biennials consists in their nature and habit only. The former grows flowers, yields seeds for its reproduction, and dies in the same year ; biennials, on the contrary, are sown and grow in the first year of their existence, but do not come to maturity until the second, when they flower, produce seed, and die. It is but few, if any, annuals that can be propagated by cuttings ; but biennials, as, for example, the Sweet William, may be preserved, and the possession of any well-marked variety maintained by pulling down layers and taking off shoots from the base of the plant. Although this and other plants of the same kind, strictly speaking, are bi- ennials, yet, from their capability of repro- BIGNONIA. 55 BIRD SCARERS. duction in the manner stated, they are often reckoned among hardy herbaceous plants, and thus it will be most convenient to consider them. Of their culture and management, it is sufficient to say that they are treated in precisely the same manner as annuals. They may be sown, however, at a later period of the year, though not later than the middle or end of September, for plants sown at this time will bloom the following year as freely as those that have been sown at an earlier date. They should be raised in the reserve garden, and planted out in their blooming quarters in the spring. Bignonia, or Trumpet Flower (nat. ord. Bignonia'cese). A magnificent climbing plant that must be raised in a hothouse from side shoots placed in sand, under a bell-glass, and over bottom keep in summer, or by cuttings of its roots treated in a similar manner in spring or autumn. When fairly advanced in growth they may be trained over the roof of a cool greenhouse. There are many varieties, all of which are natives of tropical countries, or those in which the climate is very hot. Billhook. This useful tool is indispensable for sharpening the ends of pea sticks, espaliers, stakes, and poles of all kinds used in the garden. Billhooks are used in pruning trees and trimming hedges rather than for fruit trees, although they may be utilised for cutting off the boughs of large trees in orchards, in which apple trees, pear trees, cherry trees, and the trees that are usually found in orchards, have attained such a growth and require such a lopping as may be fairly effected by means of these instru- ments. The common forms of billhook are represented in the accompanying illus- tration, A having a square-shaped broad blade, rather wider at the top than at the bottom, and slightly curved or hooked at the extremity, and u having a sickle- shaped blade of the form of a crescent. The edge of blades of both types is wedge- shaped — that is to say, bevelled on l>oth sides to the cutting edge in the centre of the thickness. This construction gives greater facility of penetration to the edge of the blade when the blow is delivered. The bills in the illustration are represented with short handles ; but they are furnished with handles ranging from 9 inches to 5 BILLHOOKS. and even 6 feet in length, according to the work that is to be done with them, the shorter handles being more suitable when lopping off large boughs, and the longer handles for trimming and pruning hedges. There are various shapes of blades in use for this implement, but the principle in all is the same. In some, however, the back is serrated to form a saw, in which case the bill is adapted to do the duty of a pruning saw. Bird Scarers. Glitter is as objectionable to birds as noise. This may be obtained by suspend- ing small pieces of looking-glass in trees. The bits of glass may be framed in strips of tin, and the framing will afford an easy means of hanging them at an angle, which is better than placing them perfectly straight BIRDS, TRAPS FOR. BIRDS, TRAPS FOR. Odd bits of bright tin may be utilised in this way by cutting them in the form shown at A, which represents the front view or elevation of a piece of tin thus treated, and then putting two together as shown at B, which affords an end view of the contri- vance. Pieces of tin put together in this way keep up a rattling noise, as well as emit flashes of light as the sun's rays fall on them, and thus constitute cheap but very effective bird scarers. Birds, Basket Traps for. Bird traps may be procured at the basket makers, circular in form and the top funnel shaped, having a small wicker door on one side. Corn is strewn at the bottom of the basket as bait. The bird forces its way into the trap to get at the corn, and cannot get out again through the ends of the opposing osiers. When caught it must be taken out and destroyed by the catcher. Birds, Simple Traps for. The accompanying diagram shows the principle of setting traps which will kill birds. A peg, slightly rounded at the top, is driven into the ground as at A, to afford a solid support for the contrivance immediately above it, which consists of a short piece, B, a forced twig, C, and a longer piece of wood or stick, D. Of these, B is placed on A, and ) immediately above B, the forked twig, c, >eing interposed between B and D, as drawn. A heavy stone, slate, or brick is then placed on D, the whole being carefully balanced. The corn, or whatever may be used as bait, is scattered under the stone between B and the edge of the stone touch- ing the ground. In approaching the bait the bird will at first light on the forked twig, c, when its weight will destroy -the balance, displace the sticks, and bring down the stone. When it is desired to entrap the bird alive, four bricks are used — one on each side, one at the end, and the fourth in the position shown for the stone F. The means used to prop up the fourth brick are precisely the same, but when the sticks are displaced and the brick falls, its edge is caught by that of the brick at the end, and the bird is secured in the cavity formed between the four bricks. A sieve propped on a stick, with a string tied to it, affords another kind of drop trap in which birds may be taken, but this necessitates long watching on the part of the person who has to let the trap down by pulling the string, and therefore I need not be described further. BLACKBERRIES. 57 BLINDS. Blackberries. A new candidate for a prominent place in the fruit garden has lately been intro- duced in the blackberry, of which the following are the best cultivated varieties : 1. Snyder. 2. Parsley Leaved. 3. Stone's Hardy. 4. Wachussett's Thornless. 5. Brunton's Early. 6. Mammoth. 7. Early Harvest. 8. Taylor's Prolific. 9. "Wilson's Early. 10. Wilson Junior. This last is the best of all the cultivated kinds. There is no difficulty in the culture of the blackberry that requires special mention here, but it may be as well to remind the reader that in attempting to grow any of the cultivated sons disappointment, through failure of the plant to take kindly to its new quarters, will often occur. The best course to pursue, when ordering any from the grower, is to make him acquainted with the nature and character of the soil in which they are to be placed, and to leave the selection to him. Blanching. Several vegetables in very general use require blanching — celery, seakale, endives, lettuces, &c. The first of these is blanched by earthing-up, full instructions for which will be given under the culture of the vegetable. Seakale i? blanched under pots prepared for this purpose, and covered over with litter, sand, ashes, or leaves. With regard to endive, the best plan is to place over each plant, when full grown, a large tile or slate, which will effectually exclude all light, and blanch the endive in a few days. Some gardeners tie the plants up with bass or twine ; but the plan is objectionable, as^in wet weather the rain will run down the endive-leaves and rot the hearts of the plants. Endive is best blanched, perhaps, by putting a flower-pot turned upside down over the centre of the plant. With lettuces there is no better plan than tying. Blinds for Walls. Blinds or screens of canvas, netting, or tiffany, form excellent temporary protection for trees, and the following is a description of the method by which they may be pre- pared and attached to the walls for use : — About I inch below the coping a splint of wood, 2 \ inches wide and i\ inch thick, is firmly secured to the wall. This splint is furnished with hooks about i inch long, and i foot apart. Pairs of pulleys, i£ inch in diameter and a J inch deep, attached to iron plates, are fixed on this splint, at inter- vals of 8 feet apart, all along the wall. They are let into the splint at a bevel, by cutting off part of the top and front sur- face ; and each is firmly kept in its place by four screws as in Fig. i. Small eyes are also placed below every other pair of pul- leys, thereon, at distances of 16 feet apart. FIG. I.— PULLEYS IN SPLINT. Pairs of posts, 4 inches square, are firmly inserted in the ground, about 4 feet 6 inches from the wall, and 16 feet apart, leaving about 3 inches above the surface. These posts are 2 feet 6 inches apart, and con- nected together with a strcng piece of wood, i£ inch wide and 3 deep, nailed on the inner or wall side of the posts. An- other single post is placed in the centre of the space between the pairs, leaving a clear space of 8 feet between. The tops of the posts are cut out in the middle, as shown in Fig. 2, and the single one is furnished with a double hook, to which to attach a cord. Splints of wood, £ inch square and 10 feet 6 inches long, are then attached to the hooks already referred to, by an iron eye attached to the upper end, the bottom BLINDS. BORDERS. end resting in the opening of the centre of the post. Canvas screens, 2 feet wide, at- tached to two similar splints of wood, are then hooked on to the top of the wall, rest- x ing on the pair of posts al- \ If] ready adverted to. Wooden \ // rollers, 16 feet long and 3^ u/ inches in diameter, furnished with a cast-iron wheel at both ends, 4$ inches in diameter, ij deep, and i£ wide across the mouth, for the reception of cord, are then attached to the bottom of broad pieces of FIG. 2.— TOP OF canvas to be used as blinds, STS IN PAIRS. The top of the canvas has pieces of zinc an inch square, with a hole in the centre, firmly sewn to it, a foot apart. These are for attaching to the hooks on the splint at the top of the wall, and the cord is then passed over the hooks, b, d, as shown in Fig. 3, carried round the pulleys at e, e, f FIG. 3.— DIAGRAM SHOWING APPLICATION OF CANVAS SCREENS FOR FRUIT-TREES. then over those at and T. alba ; Alstrameria pulchella, A. awea, A. Hookerii, and A. psittacina ; Gladiolus Gandavensis, G. Brenchleyensis, G. cardinalis, G. psittacinus> and any of the beautiful gladioli that have been intro- duced of late years ; Amaryllis Belladonna ; BORECOLE. 60 BORECOLE. rows of peas or potatoes, to occupy the ground when these crops are removed. The varieties of this tribe of Brassict? are so numerous and so mixed, that the distinction between them is very indefinite. Dwarf Curled Greens, under half a dozen names, are the old Scotch Curly, very dwarf in habit, and closely curled — an excellent variety. The Tall Green Curled, also under a host of names, grow two or three feet high, stand severe frost, and afford the most delicate greens when frosted. Purple, or Sprouting Borecole differs little from the preceding except in Caniassia esculent a, &c. In the front, between the roses and the edging, plant ixias, tritonias, watsonias, and sparaxes, which, in such situations, if placed five or six inches deep, will flower well. These intermixed with the beautiful Anoinathcca cruenta and A. juncea ; Calochortus venustus and C. splendent; Vieusseuxia pavonina ; Sternbergia lutea ; Oxalis flori- bunda, O. Boiviei, and 0. Deppei. Patches of Tigridia pavonia and T. conchiflom, planted judiciously here and there, with Anemone Japonica 3d\&A.Japonica hybrida, planted in peat, will also be suitable occu- pants of such a border, in which some of the best dwarf bedding-out plants may be planted out in summer to fill up vacancies. Many of these are surpassingly beautiful, and a portion would be in flower from early spring till the frosts set in, when the whole border should be covered with a layer of decayed leaves four inches thick. Borecole. Borecole and Curlies are a numerous tribe of Brassicce, cultivated for their leaves in winter, and for their sprouts in spring. The first week in April or May, and again about the second week COTTAGER S KALE. colour. Variegated borecole is a mere variety, very useful, and even ornamental, in the mixed gardens. Cottagers' Kale is a variety of the Tall Cavalier Cabbage, which was raised at Sherburn Castle, Oxfordshire, from Brussels sprouts crossed with one of the varieties of kale. It is the most tender of all greens, and of exquisite flavour. It stands four feet high when full- grown, and should be allowed an equal space to grow in, being clothed to the ground with immense rosette-like shoots of a bluish-green tint which, when boiled, become a delicate green. The seed should good heart; or they may be planted between ! be sown late in March, or early in April, TALL GREEN CURLED BORECOLE. in August, is the time to sow. The bore- coles are less exhausting to the soil than cabbages, and will follow peas without fresh manuring, if the ground is in tolerably BORONIA. 61 BOTTOM HEAT. and, when planted out, should have a deep rich soil assigned to it. Boro'nia (not. ord. Euta'cese). A handsome free-flowering greenhouse evergreen shrub : succeeds best in rich fibrous sandy peat. It is propagated from cuttings set in a compost of sand, peat, and charcoal with moderate heat. There are many varieties, all from Australia. BossicG'a (nat. ord. Legumino'sffl). A neat, elegant, free-flowering genus of plants, greenhouse evergreen shrubs, suc- ceeding best in a compost of rich fibrous peat and silver sand. All the varieties of this plant have been brought from Aus- tralia. Bottom. Heat. The application of bottom heat, or heat from sources immediately below and under the roots of plants, is nothing more than the adoption and imitation of a natural process. Between the temperature of the air above and that of the soil below there is always a certain relative proportion, and as the temperature of the air rises and falls so will the tem- perature of the soil also increase and decrease, as the case may be, and although the increase or decrease of the temperature of the soil is less rapid and far more gradual than the change in either direc- tion in the heat of the atmosphere, yet the former surely follows the latter, and thus the average proportion is maintained and preserved. Bottom heat, then, which, in other words, is heat applied to the soil in which plants are growing, and consequently to the roots of the plants, is an imitation of this natural process in any structure intended to stimulate and hasten the growth of plants. Let us suppose two cases in which the proper average relation in the temperature of the soil and the atmosphere has not been preserved— one in whi:h the temperature of the former is too high, and another in which it is too low, in proportion to that of the atmo- sphere. Under the first condition, when the temperature of the soil is too high in proportion to that of the atmosphere, plant food will be absorbed by the roots and transmitted to the leaves at a rate faster than that at which the leaves can assimilate it in a proper manner, and the consequence is an overdue development of shoots and leaves, the suppression, if not the absence of, blossom, and a departure from normal healthy progress. On the other hand, under the second condition, when the temperature of the soil is too low in pro- portion to that of the atmosphere, plant food cannot be absorbed by the roots af the rate that is required by the foliage, stimulated to greater action and con- sequently greater demands for nutriment by the undue warmth of the air, and in the absence of sufficient support, the leaves will flag, droop, and ultimately wither, and the blossoms, or the fruit, if set^ will fall off. Bottom Heat, Regulation of. The regulation of the temperature of the soil under the application of bottom heat, and its modification at all times of the year in due proportion to the ruling temperature of the air, is thus ably explained by a writer in the " Cottage Gardener's Dictionary," who says : — " Every plant obviously will have a particular bottom heat most con- genial to it. Plants growing in open plains will require a higher bottom heat than those growing in the shade of the South American forests, though the tem- perature of the air out of the shade may be the same in each country. That gardener will succeed in exotic plant cul- ture best who, among his other knowledge, has ascertained the relative temperature of BOTTOM HEAT. 62 BOX. the air and soil in which any given plant grows naturally. At present, such infor- mation from actual observation is not obtainable ; but it is not so difficult to obtain the maximum and minimum tem- perature of the air of a country, and, these being obtained, the gardener may adopt this as a safe rule : Let the bottom heat for plants of that country be always 5° higher than the average temperature of each month — that is, if the lowest tem- perature of the month is 44° and the highest 70°, the average is 55°, and if we add 5° to that, we shall have 60° as the bottom heat for that month. If the average maximum temperature of the air only be known, let the bottom heat be less than 10° than the maximum temperature of the air." From this we may gather that the bot- tom heat in plant growing, especially as regards exotics, may be and must be suited to the natural climate of the country of which the plant happens to be a native. In raising seeds and striking cuttings of plants which have been brought from other countries, or which, in other words, are not indigenous to our own country, but will germinate or form roots, as the case may be, in the open air in our own land, all that need be done is to raise the tem- perature to summer heat at the utmost, in order to accelerate growth, which would otherwise take place in the natural way at the normal time. If coldness of soil and coldness of the atmosphere forbid growth altogether, or exercise too great a retarding influence on it, it must be remembered that excess of heat in soil and air will draw up plants in telescopic fashion, like children who have grown beyond their strength, and a forced unhealthy growth will take the place of the short, compact, vigorous growth which is the outcome of proper progress. As a proof of this, put some seeds of the Tropaolum Canariense, and many others of the varieties of the ordinary climbing, Tropseolum, in a small frame in which the bottom heat is high enough to cause the seeds of marrows, cucumbers, and melons to germinate with sufficient rapidity, and note the result. Long and attenuated rowth of the germ of each seed will take place, and presently small leaves of a pale colour will be put forth at the end* of abnormally long leaf stalks, and the stretching out process will be continued from day to day at the same too rapid progress. Tortured into undue growth by improper application of bottom heat, the feeble nurselings are unfit to stand trans- ference into the open air unless measures are taken to slacken the heat gradually, and by a cooling down process to enable the plants to gain strength and tone. Bottom heat is too often applied by amateurs in cases like the above where there is no earthly necessity for it. Bourbon Rose- See Rose, Bourbon. Boursault Rose. See Rose, Boursault. Boussingaul'tia (naf. oni. Chenopo dia'ceae). A handsome half-hardy, greenhouse, tuberous-rooted plant, bearing in July copious and graceful racemes of delicious fragrant white flowers. It grows freely in any common garden soil, and will blossom out of doors if planted under a south wall and protected during severe weather. The best known is Boussingaultia baselloides. It is propagated by seeds and division of its tuberous roots. The soil best adapted for its growth is rich loam, with a large admix- ture of peat. Box. The different sorts of box, Buxus, are very o;aamental. They do not attain BOX EDGING. BOX EDGING. much height ; but they grow well in shade, and always look fresh and nice. Bitxits sempervirens is the common box, to which B. aurea and B. argentea, the gold and silver varieties, form an agreeable change ; B. Balearica is a good sort, and so is B. myrtifolia. B. s. sujfruticosa, a dwarf variety of the common box, is the sort that is used for the edgings of borders. Box Edging. The box used for the purpose of edging is Buxus sempervirens. It is readily pro- pagated by dividing the old plants, and it will grow in any soil not saturated with moisture. The best time for clipping box is about the end of June. To form edgings of box properly is an operation in garden- ing that requires considerable care. Mrs. London gives the following excellent direc- tions : — " First, the ground should be ren- dered firm and even : secondly, a narrow trench should be accurately cut out with the spade in the direction in which the edg- ing is to be planted : thirdly, the box should be thinly and equally laid in along the trench, the tops being all about an inch above the surface of the soil ; and fourthly, the soil should be supplied to the plants and firmly trodden in against them, so as to keep the edging exactly in the position required ; the trench should always be made on the side next the walk, and4 after the soil is pressed down and the walk gravelled, the gravel is brought up over the soil, close to the stem of the box, so as to cover the soil at least an inch in thick- ness, and to prevent any soil being seen on the gravel-walk side of the box. This also prevents the box from growing too luxuriantly, as it would apt to do if the trench were on the border side, when the plants would lean against the gravel, and the roots being entirely covered with soil, would grow with so much luxuriance that the plants would be with difficulty kept within bounds by clipping. A box edging once properly made and clipped every year, so as to form a miniature hedge, about three inches wide at bottom, three inches high and two inches wide at top, will last ten or twelve years before it requires to be taken up and replanted ; but if the edging be allowed to attain a larger size — say six inches wide at bottom, six inches high and three inches wide at top, it will last fifteen or twenty years, and probably a much longer period." Box Edging, How to Plant. The method adopted in planting box edging is simple enough, but it should be carried out in strict accordance with the directions about to be given in order to ensure regularity of setting and evenness of growth. The mode of procedure is shown in the accompanying sectional illus- tration, and it is scarcely necessary to say that it is precisely the same both in planting a box edging for the first time and in renovating, or rather replanting, an old edging. The old plants having been METHOD OF PLANTING BOX EDGING. pulled to pieces, and prepared for planting, if the path be already gravelled, the gravel must be drawn back from the edge of the border towards the middle of the path, as at A. The edge, B, of the border must then be dug over with a fork, and the soil along the edge be brought to a level and even surface, and rendered firm and sol;d by beating it with the spade. A garden line is then stretched along the edge of the border, from end to end, as at c, so as to clearly define the edge and show the exact line that is to be occupied by the box. A shallow trench, E, about 3 inches deep, rs then made with the spade, and the earth is BOX KIXilNG. 64 BOX EDGING. drawn out on the path, as shown at F. The edge of the bed then assumes the form shown at BCD, and the side of the edge, CD, is rendered as firm and solid as the surface, BC, by beating and flattening it with the spade. It will be noticed that the side of the edge, CD, is in a direction slanting outwards. This is done in order that the roots of the box may strike out- wards into the gravel, and thus be kept from too luxuriant growth. The pieces of box are then placed along the slope, CD, as shown in the illustration ; the soil at F is returned to the trench, E, and trodden in firmly against the box, and, lastly, the gravel at A is restored to its original position. It must be understood that the soil at F is not earth only, but earth mixed with a large proportion of gravel. When work is done, the freshly planted box should be from I inch to i£ inch above the surface of the gravel on one side and the surface of the border on the other. After the gravel has been put in its place, the plants should be well watered. Box Edging, Renovation of. Nothing gives a more neat and agreeable appearance to a garden than well-kept box edgings ; the only drawback to them is that they afford a better harbour for slugs and snails than any other edging, and this, in a measure, militates against them. The sort of box in use for this purpose is a dwarf varitty of the common box tree, or Buxus semperzirens. This, with a little attention, may be kept in order for several years j but, if neglected, as is too frequent- ly the case, it very soon gets out of order. In old gardens, the box edgings often looks coarse and bushy, and full of gaps ; for this there is no remedy but to take all up, and replant. The plan to be followed is this : — Fork up the old box, and pull it into small pieces, with not more than one or two stems each, selecting the youngest and freshest pieces for immediate planting. These should be cut with a sharp spade or garden shears, so as to be even at the top and also at the roots, leaving each piece about three or four inches in length. The old wood may be served the same way ; but, before these are used to form box edgings, it will be better to plant them out in the reserve garden for a season, in a rich light soil, to give them a start, with- out which they cannot be considered fit for edgings, as they will certainly not recover from their rusty and shabby appearance for a year or two. As box edging, under the best treatment and greatest care, can hardly be made to last and look well longer than eight or ten years, it is very desirable to have a reserve of young fresh plants always on hand. Box Edging, When to Plant. Box edging may be planted either in the spring of the autumn, but the autumn, say October, is considered to be the belter time. If planted in the late spring or in early summer, it will require frequent watering during the summer months. The best time for clipping box is in June, because, if well watered after the clipping is done, the plants will send forth short shoots, which will do away with the formal appearance caused by the clipping. For dimensions, an edging of box should not be more than 3, or at the utmost 4, inches in height, and about 3 inches broad at the bottom, and just half that width at the 1 op. An edging of box, when clipped ever) year, will continue to retain a good appearance for about seven years, when it is desirable to replant it. When left undipped and uncared for, the plants will attain a hei-ht of 9 inches, and while the top is broad and green, the bottom will be utterly bare and naked. This is often seen in old gardens ; and persons, instead I of replanting the box, are content to lea»v BOX, PROPAGATING. BRACHYCOME. it as it is, or to clip the sides and lop in a formal manner, so that the edging looks like a broad mass of greenery, supported on a closely serried line of brown sticks and twigs utterly devoid of leafage. Box, Propagating. For propagating boxes, any of the boxes, large or small, in which articles of various descriptions, such as cocoa, starch, mus- tard, tinned salmon and lobster, Swiss milk, &c., are sent in bulk to grocers, may be easily adapted to suit the purpose in view, and they can be easily cut so that the top may slant in one direction, as in the accompanying illustration, or both ways, like the roof of a house, ledges being nailed externally to sides and bottom to form a rebate to receive the glass. If the box be deep enough, triangular pieces must PROPAGATING BOX. be cut off each side and the front reduced in order to give the proper inclination to the glass, but if the box be shallow tri- angular pieces may be added to the sides, and the back raised as shown by the dotted lines in the illustration. Seed pans may be formed out of the bottoms of butter tubs and mustard tubs, both of which may be bought for a few pence of any grocer. And these tubs, when of sufficient size, answer ever)' practical purpose for forcing rhubarb. while half-tubs will be large enough fcr sea kale. Boxes, Tubs, &c. For growing large plants and shrubs that cannot conveniently be grown even in pots of the largest size, tubs and boxes must be used. Sometimes the larger butter tubs from the grocer will be found sufficient as far as size goes, but it is desirable to have them girt with iron hoops, as the wooden hoops frequently give in a short time by the swel- ling of the wood of the tub by the moisture absorbed from the soil within when the plant is watered. Strong tubs, such as halves of wine casks, &c., may be obtained of the cooper. Boxes of any kind and size may be made by the gardener if he can turn his hand to the execution of a little simple carpentry. It is not possible, how- ever, to dwell at any length on the con- struction of such appliances here, though it is necessary to call attention to them as being among the numerous appliances of various kinds that are used in gardening, and may be required at some time or other by every gardener. Braehy'come (not. ord. Composite). Beautiful free-flowering, dwarf-growing, half-hardy annuals, covered during the BRACHYCOME IBERI reater portion of the summer with a pro- fusion of pretty cineraria-like flowers, very BRACHYSEMA. 66 BROCCOLI. effective for edgings, small beds, rustic baskets, or for pot-culture ; succeeding in any light rich soil. The best known is Brachycome ibendifolia, which bears some blue and some white flowers. Brachyse'ma (nat. ord. Legumino'sse). A beautiful greenhouse climber, of a very ornamental character, exceedingly effective on low pillars or trellis-work ; succeeds in any light rich soil. Propagated by cuttings of half-ripened shoots, made about June or July, and placed in sand under a bell-glass, and over moderate bottom heat. It may also be grown from seeds, sown in a compost of sand, loam and peat in March and placed over bottom heat. Bravo' a (nat. ord. Amaryllida'cese). A handsome greenhouse or conservatory bulb, producing in July its beautiful crim- son pentstemon-like flowers in pairs ; suc- ceeds also in a warm south border, with winter protection ; thrives best in a sandy, loamy soil. The only variety known is Bravoa gewiniflora. Briar, Austrian. See Austrian Briar. Briza (nat. ord. Gramina'cese). A family of ornamental grasses raised GREAT QUAKING GKASS. readily from seed sown in March or April. The best known are Briza maxima, or great quaking grass, shown in the accom- panying illustration, and B. minor. This .s sometimes called Ladies' Tresses. Broccoli. Broccoli is supposed to be a variety of the cauliflower, from which it differs very slightly, the chief points of difference being that the flower-stem is longer and less fleshy, the head less compact, and it rarely attains the size or delicacy of the cauliflower. Preparation of soil. — all the varieties of broccoli require a deep, rich, loamy soil, and the ground should be trenched to a depth of at least two feet, incorporating, as the work proceeds, abundance of rich manure. Indeed, to obtain fine large heads too much manure can hardly.be used. EARI.Y WHITE BROCCOLI. Time and Manner of Sowing. — The early varieties, such as Purple Cape, Grange's Early White Walcheren, Veitch's Self-protecting Autumn, &c., should be sown from the middle of April to the middle of May, according to locality, and a second sowing of similar kinds should be made about a fortnight afterwards. These will succeed the cauliflowers, and will carry the supply orr to Christmas. Two or three sowings of Snow's Winter White, put in from the beginning of April to the middle of May will keep up the supply until the sprouting varieties are ready, and these again till the spring kinds come in. Sow BROCCOLI. BROOMS. the Purple Sprouting early in March and White Sprouting early in April ; and those intended to furnish the spring supply or main crop at the latter end of April or early in May. All the varieties should be sown in beds of well-pulverised rich soil. The surface must be made fine, and the seed then beaten gently into the ground and covered lightly with fine earth. When the plants are sufficiently strong, and before they are drawn by growing too closely together, transplant them into nursery-beds or lines, allowing about four inches inter- mediate space. This will insure strong stocky plants, and will also induce the for- mation of an extra quantity of roots. In transplanting the early varieties, great care PURPLE SPROUTING BROCCOLI. must be used not to injure the roots ; and the plants should be freely supplied with water until fairly established. In warm localities, where the soil is of a light sandy nature, it is considered necessary by many growers to sow the seed in the situation permanently intended for the crop ; but we think, if moderate care is taken to keep the plants well supplied with water, they may not only be safely transplanted, but that thus treated they will be much less liable to form heads prematurely. After- Management. — Plant in perma- nent situations as soon as the plants are sufficiently strong, in rows from ij to 3 feet apart, leaving about the same distance between the plants. Generally it may be said that they should be planted according to the size of the plants. Thus Knight's Dwarf require only 18 inches, Early White 27 inches, Purple Cape, Walcheren, and White Sprouting, 2 feet; and the taller sorts should be 3 feet apart. Keep them well supplied with water until fairly estab- lished, especially the autumn flowering varieties, and these must also be liberally watered in all stages of their growth, during dry, hot weather. Keep the ground well stirred between the rows and free from weeds ; and before severe weather sets in, the spring kinds should be laid over, with their heads facing the north. This operation checks the action of the roots, and the plants consequently become less succulent and better able to resist frost. They are thus also put in the best possible position for covering with stable or any other litter when such protection may be necessary. There are many varieties of broccoli — too many, indeed, to be mentioned here — and for classification in divisions, with times for sowing and cutting, the reader is referred to the price lists of the leading growers, such, for example, as those issued by Messrs. Daniel Bros., Norwich, Messrs. Sutton and Sons, Reading, &c. Broccoli, Clubbing in. See Club- bicg in Cabbages. Brompton Stocks. - Brompton. Stocks, Brooms. The ordinary birch broom, which is made of a number of small branchlets of birch, cut very nearly to one length, and bound together about the sharpened end of a wooden stick which serves as a handle, and which is driven into the centre of the mass after the ends have been cut even, in order BROWALLIA 6S BRUSSELS SPROUTS. to render this part of the broom, which has been already bound Uj> £.£ tightly as possible, still more tight, is the best for all garden purposes, as it is useful in all its stages from its first state to its last. When new, the fine ends of the twigs render it an excellent implement for sweeping turf and gravel walks, and when these ends are worn away and the broom has become stiff and stubby, it is still useful for scattering worm casts on grass and for sweeping up paths and courts paved with small blocks of stone, cobble stones, or pebbles. For hothouses, greenhouses, and structures in which flat paving or tiles is used as flooring, a, broom of whalebone or bast, inserted in small bundles, in a rectangular piece of wood, and fastened in with wire after the manner of a brush, is most suitable. In- ferior brooms of this sort are made by putting the bast into the holes made for its reception, and fastening it in with hot pitch ; these may do good service for a short time, but they are by no means durable, and therefore are not cheap. Brooms of iron of copper wire are some- times used for mossy lawns, paths over- grown with moss, and for clearing moss from the trunks of trees, but they are seldom if ever seen now. A birch broom costs from 3d. to 6d., and a good bast broom from is. 6d. to 2s. Browal'lia (nat. ord. Scrophu- laria'cese). Very handsome, profuse-blooming, half- hardy annuals, covered with beautiful flowers during the summer and autumn months ; growing freely in any -rich soil. The best known varieties are — Browallia demissa,— light blue, yellow and orange centre, ij ft. Browallia elata alba, — white, 15 ft. Biowallia elata cserulea,— sky-blue ij ft. Browallia grandiflora, — pale yellow, large and handsome, ij ft. Browallia speciosa,— purple, very pretty, i ft. BROWALLIA. Brmgman'sia (not. ord. Solona'cese). These plants are now included with the Datures, which are the annual species, while the Brugmansias are the shrubby species. The latter are magnificent con- servatcry plants, with a profusion of large trumpet-shaped highly odoriferous flowers ; growing freely out of doors during summer ; in the centres of beds, mixed borders, or against south walls, they are very orna- mental. They require rich soil and plenty of space for their roots, and should be placed in large pots. 'The chief varieties are— Brugmansia Knightii, — white, splendid for winter decoration, 2 ft. Bragmansia suaveolens, — white; flowers i ft. or more in length. Brussels Sprouts. Brussels Sprouts should have the same treatment in the seed-beds as other mem- bers of the cabbage tribe (see Cabbage Tribe, Seed-beds, for], early in April being the best time for sowing in the open ground. Mr. Cuthill thinks March sowing would be better. " When thus sown," he adds, " I have had them three feet high, each stem producing a peck of large close sprouts." The after-treatment Mr. Cuthill recom- mends, is to " select a rich stiff" loam, and plant them in rows 2 feet or 1 8 inches BUCKTHORN. • 69 BUDDING. apart, keeping the ground loose led by hoeing; and as soon as the stems reach their full height, which is known by the bp beginning to cabbage, it is cut. This Ilirows all the strength of the plant into Tie sprouts on the stem, and makes the BRUSSELS SPROUTS. bottom ones as good as the top." Mr. NTcIntosh dissents from this practice of uniting the top : " From their form and position," he says, " they protect the sprouts during winter, and in wet weather, from frost, snow, and rain." Buckthorn. Of this species, however smoky the Atmosphere, Rhanmus alatennis, the fommon alaternus, and others of the same genus, which are all of quick growth and hardy, will live and do well, provided only they have shelter from the wind. Budding, or Shield Grafting. General Characters. — Grafts of this description present the following charac- ters : they consist in raising an eye or bud with a piece of the bark and wood, and transferring it to another part of the same plant, or any other plant of the same species. Budding is chiefly employed on young shoots or trees from one to five years old, -which bear a thin, tender, and smooth bark. The term " shield-graft- ing" is applied to it from the shield-like form of the base of the bud, as shown at A in Fig. i, which is inserted into the cleft cut for its reception in the bark of the stock. Conditions. — The necessary conditions are, that the operation takes place when trees are in full growth, when the bark of the subject can be easily detached from the FIG. I. — BUDDING— PREPARATION OF BUD. A. BUDJ B. BUD INSERTED IN STOCK AND BOUND ON. liber, and it may be performed generally from May to August. The buds adapted for the operation should present well- constituted eyes or gemmce at the axil of the leaf ; if they are not sufficiently so, it is possible to prepare them by pinching the herbaceous extremity of the bud, thus producing a reflux of the sap towards the base ; and in about twelve days' time the eyes will have become sufficiently de- veloped ; then detach the bud from the parent tree. Suppress all leaves, only reserving a very small portion of the petiole, or leaf-stalk, as at c in P'ig. 2. Removal of Bud and Insertion in Stock. — Having fixed upon the intended stock and bud, take a sharp budding-knife, and with a clean cut remove the bud from its branch, with about a quarter of an inch o/ the bark above and below ; remove all the BUDDING. 70 BUDDING. wood without disturbing the inner bark of the eye ; for it is in this liber, or inner bark, that the vitality lies. Now make a cross-cut in the bark of the intended stock, and also a vertical one, T, and shape the upper part of the shield or bud, A, so as to fit it exactly. Having fitted the parts correctly, raise the bark of the stock gently with the budding-knife, and insert the bud ; afterwards bandage lightly above and below the eye, bringing the lips of the bark of the stock together again over the bud by means of the ligature, in such manner that no opening remains between them, and, above all, taking care that the base of the eye is in free contact with the bark of the stock. FIG. 2. — OPERATION OF BUDDING. Loosening of Ligature. — Some weeks after, if the ligatures seem to be too tight after swelling, they may be untied, and replaced with smaller pressure. Budding in May — Cutting Scion. — When the operation takes place in May, the scion will develop itself as soon as the suture is completed. In order to provide for this, cut the head of the stock down to within an inch of the point of junction immediately after the operation. Budding in August — Treatment. — When the operation takes place in August, the head is never cut till the following spring, when the scion begins to grow. If the same practice as in earlier budding were followed, the consequence would be that the bud would develop itself before winter ; and, having no time to ripen its new wood, it would perish, or at least suffer greatly. When the buds begin to grow, they require to be protected from strong winds ; otherwise they would be detached from the stem. This is done by driving a stake, A (Fig. 3), firmly into the ground, attaching it by a strong cord to the stem of the stock above and below the junction, as in the engraving, and tying the shoot of the young scion firmly to the stake above, protecting it by a bandage of hay or other substance, to prevent the bark being injured. Weather for Btid- <#ttf.— The weather most suitable for budding is a subject of dispute among practical men. Cloudy weather has generally been preferred ; but many are in favour of warm sunny weather, provided the stock and buds are in proper condition. " In warm weather," says Mr. Saul, " the sap is FIG. 3._MODE OF sur- more gelatinous, and TOUT-ING GROWING , S , SCION BY STAKE. the bud, on being extracted and inserted in the stock, quickly and properly tied, soon takes. On the contrary, in wet, cloudy weather, the sap is more thin and watery, and the bud will not unite so freely ; besides this, a fall of rain, after the buds are inserted, likely enough, in such weather, will fill up the interstices, and rot the buds before they have time to unite with the stock." Extraction of Wood from Eye of Bud. — American gardeners have questioned the necessity of extracting the wood from the BUDDING. BUDDING ROSES. eye of the bush. With regard to this, however, Mr. Saul points out that it may suit their hot, dry climate, but that he gives the preference to the English system of extracting the wood from the bud, not only for roses, but for fruit, ornamental, and forest trees. " In rose-budding," he adds, " the bud in the shoot should be commenced with, cutting out from it about the eighth of an inch below the bud or eye, to about half an inch above it. Take out the wood without touching the liber or inner bark ; next make an incision in the branch on which the bud is to be placed, quite close te the main stem, half an inch long, with a cross-cut at the upper extre- mity, thus : "!"• Raise the bark with the end of the budding-knife, without bruising it, and insert the bud, tying it well with worsted thread, giving one turn below, and two, or at most three, above the eye of the bud. Worked in this way, they grow out from the axil of the branch, and look neat and workmanlike ; and after a season or two, when headed back and healed over, it presents a fine bushy head, growing apparently out of the main stem, without scars, wounds, or knots." Nature of Shoots.— The shoots selected for budding or grafting, whether for fruit- or rose-trees, should be firm and well- ripened : watery shoots, or watery buds, are valueless. For grafting, the branches should be of the preceding year, well ripened under an August sun, — aonte, as French fruitists say. Stale of Stock. — The stock should be in a state of vegetation slightly in advance of the graft ; otherwise the flow of the sap is insufficient to supply the wants of the scion. In order to provide for this, the graft may be removed from the parent branch a little before the operation, and buried under a north wall until it is wanted ; there it re- mains stationary, while the stock is ad- vancing to maturity. Budding Roses. The operation of budding roses may be commenced in June. In selecting buds of roses, take those of moderate size ; clean off the thorn, cut the leaves off, leaving only about half an inch of the stalk or petiole to hold by ; then with a sharp knife take out the bud, begin- ning half an inch above the eye, and bring the knife about the eighth of an inch below ; with the point of the knife separate the wood from the bark, without inter- fering with the wood which remains in the eye, leaving it so that, when inserted on the stock, the wood left may be in imme- diate contact with its wood. Having removed the thorns on the intended stock, open the bark at the most convenient spot for the insertion, by draw- ing the point of the knife down the centre of the shoot, and by a cross-cut, where the other begins, raise the corners of the bark sufficiently to introduce the lower end of the bud ; press it down till it is opposite to the corresponding bud on the stock, and bind it up with a piece of fine bass or worsted thread, leaving the eye so that it s just visible. After a lapse of three or four weeks it should be examined, and the band loosened a little. In cases where the bud does not separate freely from the bark, the wood may be tied in also ; but the opera- tion is both neater and more efficient when all the wood except that in the eye is removed. % Dull and cloudy weather is generally recommended for the operation ; but some operators prefer bright, warm, sunny weather, provided the stocks are in proper condition. Rose-budding may be per- formed any lime from June to September, and even as late as October, August being suitable for the greatest number of rosis, the test being of course the maturity of the shoots. BUDDLEA. 72 BULBS. Bud'dlea (nat. ord. Scropnularia'cea). Deciduous greenhouse shrubs, natives of India and South America. They are not quite hardy enough to endure very severe winters with us out of doors ; but in green- houses they flower profusely. A loamy soil, mixed with peat, suits them best. There is, however, one hardy variety, Buddlea globosa, remarkable for its pretty ball-shaped orange blossoms and lanceolate leaves, pale green above and whitish below. This herbaceous shrub attains the height of 15 feet, and only requires such protection as is afforded by a dry sheltered situation. It may be propagated by cut- tings taken from well -ripened wood, in September, placed in good soil under a hand-light, or from seeds, if they ripen on the parent plant. Bugloss (not. ord. Boragina'cese). The Bugloss (Anchusa) is a fine showy plant, mostly with large blue flowers. It may be propagated by slips, and by divi- ding the roots into as many plants as there are heads, when it has done flowering, as well as by seed saved in the autumn, and sown on a warm border in the spring. Bulbs, Form and Classification of. The management of some special classes of bulbs, such as the crocus, the gladiolus, the hyacinth, &c., are indicated under the names they respectively bear. At present we have only to consider the culture of bulbs generally, some of which may be regarded as herbaceous plants, and which may one and all be classified as such, when we remember that plants of this kind are those in which a new stem is pro- duced, year after year, from a perennial root, and that the term is applicable to any border perennial whose habit is not shrubby. Strictly speaking, the term " bulb " is applicable only to roots such as the hyacinth, which grows in successive coats superimposed one on and over the other, and the lily, which is formed of scales growing one over the other, as tiles are placed on the roof of a house. From this disposition of the coats in one case, and the scales in the other, of which true bulbs are formed ; bulbs following the formation of the hyacinth are said to be tunicated bulbs, and those following the formation of the lily are said to be imbri- cated. From this it is evident that snow- drops, daffodils, &c., which are similar in construction to the hyacinth, and all that possess the scale-like formation of the lily, are genuine bulbs. But what of the crocus, the gladiolus, the cyclamen, and other fleshy roots of bulbous forms which have not the construc- tion of either of the classes just described — are they not bulbs? No, not in the strictest sense of the word ; but having the form of bulbs they are commonly accepted as being bulbs, and are included in the list of roots called *' Dutch Bulbs," sent over every autumn from growers in Holland to supply the English market. If the root, say, of a crocus, be divided in any way, whether from top to bottom, or trans- versely from side to side, it will be found that it is a fleshy root without any division whatever in the interior, like the hyacinth, BULBS. 73 BULBS. but consisting of one mass throughout like the potato. It differs, however, from the potato in that the roots, by which nourish- ment is drawn from the soil, are sent forth anew each year, from a ring or circular patch at the base of the bulb, and not from eyes, as in the potato, from which stalk and roots both proceed, the former in an upward direction, and the latter down- wards. Fleshy masses like the gladiolus and crocus, are called corms, to distinguish them from the tunicated bulb of the hya- cinth and the scaly bulb of the lily, and masses like the potato and dahlia are called tubers. Bulbs, Management and Cul- ture of. As far as these points are concerned, the treatment of all bulbs in the open air, and indeed in pots, is similar to a great extent for every variety. The more hardy kinds, and notably the common garden lilies, will thrive in any ordinary garden soil, fairly worked and fairly enriched ; but it is necessary for their welfare that it should be well drained, and in no way water- logged. Generally speaking, however, a light soil or sandy loam is preferred by bulbs, and if the soil of the garden be at all inclined to be heavy, it is desirable to lighten it by working in sand, at and around each spot in which a clump of bulbs is to be planted ; and to add some leaf mould and manure from a spent hot bed, if the soil be poor. Bulbs, as a rule, should be planted deep, especially cro- cuses, gladioli, and lilies, because the bulbs are then less likely to suffer from the effects of frost. No attempt should be made, after flowering, to remove leaves or flower-stalks until they have withered and decayed to such an extent that they may be removed by a very slight effort. The long sword-like leaves of crocuses, hya- cinths, &c., should be neatly plaited to- gether, to obviate untidiness of appearance, and allowed to remain until they are quite decayed. The dead flowers may be, and indeed ought to be, cut off just below the spike of bloom, unless it is wished to save seed. This holds good for all bulbs that have a woody or strong flower stem. When the leaves have completely died away, bulbs may be taken up and allowed to dry. They should then be kept in a dry place, to which the air has free access, until the time for planting comes round again, which commences in October for hyacinths, &c., and ends in April for late- flowering varieties of the gladioli, the period of planting being regulated in a degree by the period of flowering. Such, briefly, is the accepted creed with regard to the culture of bulbs, and, for sale purposes, it is absolutely necessary that bulbs should be taken up when their leaves are withered and dried, so that transit from place to place may be effected when they are in this condition, and without tender and succulent rootlets to suffer injury by removal and carriage. But in the amateur's garden, bulbs may be suffered to remain where they are from year's end to year's end, provided that the soil is suitable, the drainage sufficient, and that they are planted deep. Bulbs have a tendency to rise to the surface, especially corms, for in the crocus and gladiolus, though not in the cyclamen, the new corms are formed every year on the top of the old corms which perish. The continu- ance of bulbs in the places in which they are first planted, leads to the formation of splendid masses, from which at the proper season rise glorious flower spikes, rich in colour, and in some cases endowed with delicious fragrance. Flowers are far more satisfying to the senses of sight and smell when in groups and masses, than they can possibly be as single specimens. What can be more desirable than a clump of BULBS. 74 BULBS. hyacinths of all colours — red, white, blue, and yellow— or a dozen spikes, four feet in height, of the old but beautiful white and orange lilies ? Bulbs, List of. The following is a list of the princi- pal bulbs now in cultivation in gardens. It may be considered as a list of peren- nials, bulbous and tuberous, because it will save space to include the latter kinds without placing them in a separate list. A few plants that might have been included in this list, viewing it as such, have already been named in lists given elsewhere, and it will be unnecessary to repeat them. These are the Alstrcemeria, Anemone, Anthericum, Arum, Asphodelus, Corydalis, Dielytra, Erythronium, Heme- rocallis, Iris, Lily of the Valley (Conval- laria majalis}, Pseonia, Ranunculus, San- guinaria, Thladianthe, and Tritoma. It is as well to name them, to prevent any trouble, doubt, or difficulty to readers when attempting to determine them. Plants that require protection in the winter, when out of doors, or which are more suitable for indoor culture under glass, are marked with a star. Agapanthus (.African Lily), 30, bright clear blue. Allium azureum, 12, dark blue. „ moly, 12, yellow. „ Neapolitanum, 18, white. ,, roseum, 18, claret. Amaryllis Atamasco *, 9, white, with rose stripes. „ Belladonna * (Belladonna Lily}, 18, rosy carmine, scented. „ crispa *, 9, lilac. Greenhouse plant. „ formosissima (Jacobcean Lily), 18, crimson. „ longifolia *, 36, rose, scented. „ lutea (Autumnal Yellow Crocus), 6, yellow. „ vittata *, 24, hybrid varieties of all colours. Anomatheca cruenta *, 12, bright crimson. Apios tuberosa, climber, brownish purple. Begonia Traebelli *, 9, scarlet. Greenhouse. ,, maculata *, pink, spotted foliage. ,, Pearcei, 12, yellow. Out doors in summer. M Rex *, 18, pink, beautiful foliage. Green- house. ,, rosaeflora *, i», carmine rose. H Veitchi *, 6, orange scarlet. Numerous hybrids from this and B. Rex. Bravpa germiniflora *, 30, scarlet. Brodiaea coccinea, n, dark crimson and green. „ congesta, 24, blue. „ grandiflora, 15, blue. „ volubilis, climber, rosy purj.ie. Bulbocodium vernum, 4, purple. Caladium esculentum *, 36, fine foliage. „ violaceum *, 24, reddish foliage. Othei varieties are strictly hothouse plants. Calochortus venustus *, 12, various colours. Camassia esculenta, 18, blue, in spikes. Canna Indica * (Indian Shof), 48, various colours. Chionodoxa Luciliae (Snow Glory), 6, blue, white centre. Colchicum autumnale (Autumn Crocus), 6, lilac rose. Commelina tuberosa *, 18, rich blue. Crocus vernus (Spring Crocus), 6, various colours. Cyclamen Coum, 4, purple red, white. „ Europaeum. 4, red, white. „ Neapolitanum, 6, rose, white, purplo throat. „ Persicum *, 6, white rose. » » giganteum *, 8, white rose. Daffodil. (See Narcissus.) Dahlia superflua, origin whence double varieties are derived. These are divided in three classes : — Ordinary, 48 to 72 ; Bouquet and Liliputian, with smaller flowers, about the same height ; and Dwarf, 18 to 36. Useful for bedding ; various colours. Dahlia Mexicana, origin whence single varieties are derived, 36, various colours. Early grown from seed as half-hardy annuals. Eranthis hyemalis ( Winter A conite"), 4, yellow. Eucomis punctata *, 24, pale green, purple centre. Fritillaria imperialis (Crown Imperial), 30, various colours. Galanthus nivalis (Snowdrop), 6, white. There are many varieties of this winter-flowering bulb. Gladiolus bizanthinus, 18, purple. „ cardinalis *, 18, scarlet, white spots. „ Colvillii, 18, purple2 with white spots. ,, ,, alba, 18, white. „ communis, 18, purple-red, rose, white. „ floribundus, 30, white or lilac, veined purple. ,, Gandavensis, 24, various colours. Origin whence hybrids are chiefly derived, among which the most noteworthy is : M Brenchleyensis, 24, intense scarlet. ,, ramosus, 24, purple, rose, white, i sagittalis, 12, dwarf var. ; various colour*. Gloxinia *, 8, various; for greenhouse only. Hyacinthus candicans, 60, white in tall spike. ,, orientalis, 9, red, white, blue, purple, pink, yellow. Ixia *, 12, many hybrid varieties ; various colours. Lachenalia *, 6, red, yellow, green, &c. Leucojum JEstivum, 15, white, with green spot. ,, vernum, 6, white. Lilium auratum, 60, white, gold bands, brown spots. „ Brownii, 36, white, brownish purple outside. „ bulbiferum, 24, orange, yellow, red. „ Canadense, 60, scarlet or yellow, purple spots. BULBS. 75 BUSH FRUIT. Lilium candidum (White Lily), 48, pure white. „ Carniolicum, 30, scarlet, black spots. „ Chalcedonicum (Turk's Cap), 36, bright scarlet. „ croceum (Orange Lily], 30, bright orange. ,, excelsum, 60, soft nankeen yellow. ,, giganteum *, 72, white, purplish within. „ Harrisii (Bermuda Lily), 36, white. „ Humboldtii, 48, yellow; with brown spots. ,, Krameri, 30, delicate pink. , longiflorum, 24, pure white, scented. „ martagon (Martagon Lily), 24, rosy violet. „ pardalinum (Panther Lely), 50, scarlet, orange, and yellow, spotted. „ Philadelphicum, 18, orange scarlet, black spots. , pomponium, 18, bright red. „ pyrenaicum, 36, orange red. „ speciosum (or lancifolium), 36, white, pink spots. , „ alburn, 36. pure while. ,, ,, corymbifiorum, 54, red, white. „ ,, punctatum, 36, white, spotted rose. „ ,, roseum, 36, rose, white edges, crim- son spot. „ „ rubrum, 36, rose, white edges, purple spots. „ superbum. 24 to 84, scarlet and yellow, spotted with dark purple. ,, termifolium *, 15, scarlet, very delicate. „ Thompsonianum *, 24, rose. „ Thunbergianum, 20, red, yellow in various shades. „ tigrinum (Tiger Lily), 42, scarlet orange, with dark purple spots. ,. umbellatum, 24, orange scarlet. „ Washingtonianum, 48, white, black spots. Mirabilis Jalapa * (Marvel of Peru), 18, red, crimson yellow, white, plain or variegated. Muscari botryoides (Grape Hyacinth), 9, blue, white. Narcissus bulbocodium (Hoop Petticoat), 9, golden yellow. „ Clusii, 7, white. »> Jonquilla (Jonquil), yellow, many varieties. „ papyraceus (Paper White Narcissus), J2, pure white. „ poeticus (Poet's, or Pheasant's Eye, Nar- cissus), 12, white, with crimson edge to cup. „ Romanus (Double Roman Narcissus), 12 white. „ tazetta (Polyanthus Narcissus), white, with yellow cups, many varieties. „ telamonius (Daffodil), 12, yellow, many varieties. „ triandrus, 12, sulphur yellow. Nerine Sarniensis (Guernsey Lily), 18, rose gold spots. Ornithogalum Arabicum, 12, white; may be grown in glasses like hyacinths. „ nmbriatum, 24, white. „ pyramidale, 12, white. „ umbellatum, 15, white, with green streaks. Oxahs Bowei, 12, pink or carmine, yellowish centre. „ Deppei, 12, red, yellowish base. „ rosea, 6, pink, greenish dot at base „ trogiaeoloides, 8, yellow, brownish- purple leaves. „ Valdiviana *, 12, dark yellow. Pancratium Caribbaeum, 18, white, sweet sceiited. „ Illyricum, 18, white, yellow inside, scented. ,, maritimum, 12, white, sweet scented. Sc lla bifolia, 4, blue, purple stamens, campanulata, 12, light blue, cernua, 6, blue, maritima * (Squill), 9, blue. Paruviana (Cuban Lily), 12, blue, white stamens. Sibirica, 6, brilliant blue, praecox, 6, blue, verna, 6, blue, white. Sparaxis grandiflora *, 12, deep crimson, yellow centre. „ pulcherrima *, 40, purple. Sternbergia lutea *, 6, yellow. Tigridia conchiflora, 12, yellow, purple spots. ,, pavonia, 12, scarlet, marked with yellow and purple. Triteleia laxa *, 12, fine blue. „ uniflora, 6, white, blue, and violet. Tritonia aurea, 18, spikes of bright orange. „ squalida, 18, pink, and shades of red. Tropaeoleum aureum *, climber ; azure blue. „ Jarrattii (or tricolor) *, climber; scarlet, black, and yellow. „ pentaphyllum, climber ; scarlet, green lip. „ speciosum, climber; bright scarlet. Polyanthus tuberosa *, (Tuberose), 36, white, pink tinge. Tulipa Gesneriana, 9 to 18. Many varieties, viz. : Early Single Tulips, all colours, for bedding, &c. ; Double, all colours, red, yellow, and variegated ; Late Tulips, striped, various, show varieties. Vallota purpurea * (Scarborough Lily), iff. scarlet. Veltheimia Capensis *, 12, purple red. Wachendorfia brevifolia *, 18, yellow. Zephyranthes Atamasco *, 6, white. 1 Bulboco'dium (nat. ord. Melan- tha'ceae). A very pretty early- flowering plant, best known as Red Crocus; blooms about a fortnight before the ordinary crocus, and, like it, may be cultivated indoors. It thrives best in sandy loam in well- drained situations. The best - known variety is Bulbocodium vernum^ which bears a purple-red flower. Bush Fruit. Under this title are included goose- berries, the different kinds of currants- red, white, and black — and raspberries ; fruits so extremely useful that they are to be found in every garden, and are grown extensively for markets in the neighbour- BUSH FRUIT. BUSH FRUIT. hood of every large town. Ij too fre- quently happens that bush fruit, from the readiness with which it yields a crop, is left to take care of itself ; but the quantity and quality of the fruit produced will be found to depend very materially upon the good management of the bushes. Direc- tions for the culture of the different sorts will be found under the different heads re- spectively. In forming plantations amateurs must Keep in mind that it is a mistake to plant bush fruits, such as gooseberries and cur- rants, too closely together. The rows should be at least six feet apart, and the bushes should be the same distance apart in the rows. Of course there will be a lingering idea in the amateur's mind, when he sees small and young bushes planted out in this way, that the ground is unduly wasted. But the bushes grow quickly; and if he is overdistressed on account of '.he imaginary waste, he may set temporary crops along the centre lines between rows and bushes until such time as the latter lave attained about half their size, when .he intermediate cropping should be aban- doned. Bush Fruit, Management of Cuttings of. To grow currants, and gooseberries too, hi perfection a deep and tolerably rich soil 's required ; and, preparatory to planting, this should be deeply trenched and manured with thoroughly rotted dung. Both are propagated by cuttings, which should be well -ripened wood of last year's growth, ilipped from the tree, and from ten to twelve inches long. Having selected the slip and separated it from the parent stem, cut off the top, leaving four shoots ; trim off all others. Make two or three incisions, pen.-trating half through the stem, to ex- pedite the process of rooting, and plant the cuttings in a nursery-bed in rows a few inches apart each way. When the cuttings have made roots, transplant tlie:a into a bed of deeper and richer soil, prun.- ing back the four shoots to five or six inches, and leaving two side shoots to each. Here they may remain a second year, the four shoots now multiplied to eight, and the head beginning to assume its permanent shape. This is produced by means of hooked sticks, by which strag- gling shoots are brought into cup-like fcrsa, and forked twigs, by means of which sheets inclining inwardly are pressed out to their proper position, which should be as nearly the horizontal as possible. Treatment in Second Year of Growth. — In the autumn of the second year the bushes may be planted out in their per- manent stations, which may be from three feet and a half up to sev.n or eight feet apart, according to circumstances ; that is, if it is a plantation entirely devoted to well- selected bush-fruit, in which no other crop is to be cultivated, three feet and a half, or four feet, will do, but six feet is better. If they are planted with the intention of growing other crops between them, six feet to eight feet will not be too much. Where they are planted in rows to divide the quarters of the kitchen-garden, six feet will probably be a convenient distance. In planting, dig out the soil eighteen inches deep, and of sufficient diameter to admit of the growth of the roofs ; smooth and level the station with the back of the spade, and drive a stake firmly into the ground in the centre, leaving it six or seven inches above the surface of the soil. Having trimmed the roots of the bush, place' it in the centre of the station with the roots radiating in all directions, regularly spread out, none of them spreading over others, and sprinkle two inches of the soil over them, pressing it gently all round into the roots ; over this spread a thin layer of well- rotted dung, and fill up the whole to the BUSH FRUIT. 77 BUSH FRUIT. fcvel of the surrounding soil. This done, X-ater the roots well, and prune back all tfie shoots so as to form a cup-like bush, tfilh branches radiating from the centre. Fruiting Wood. — Gooseberry and cur- lant bushes produce their fruit both on the foung wood and on the wood two, three, fcnd four years old ; and generally along the branches. The general bearers, there- Jare, young and old, of proper growth and veil ripened, must be continued as long as they remain, fruitful, cutting out from time to time such as are of irregular growth C-? too crowded, — all branches and decayei wood, together with the superfluous c* over-abundant young wood of last sunr- mer ; but retaining a selection of young shoots where necessary, to fill up gaps k the tree ; the rule being to. keep them trained to a single stem below, while th» head, or general expansion of branches, if kept open and regular. Upon a banderol of silk, Broidered on ground as white as milk, His cognizance he bore; Carnations triple intertwined, In fiery scarlet deftly lined, By willing hands when far apart, A token of a loving heart— A heart that beats no more. . ABBAGE. The Brassicce, or Cab- bages, are the most impor- tant product of the garden, whether we look at them as a necessary or a luxury are also, except under a system of rotation crop- exhaustive class of vege- gardener's care. With of life. They well-considered ping, the most tables under .the such properties, it is not surprising to find j Dwarf, that they were well known to the ancients, i Sugarloaf, Drumhead, Red Dutch, Purple he mentions the white-cabbage cole, red- cabbage cole, the curled garden cole, the Savoie cole, the curled Savoy, and one which he calls the "swollen colewort," and rape-cole, which, he says, " must be carefully set and sown, as musk-melons and cucumbers." This variety has now become one of our hardiest field plants. The principle cabbages now cultivated in this country are the Early Battersea, Early Early York, Imperial Penton, and that, in all probability, we are in- debted to the Romans for their first cultiva- Turnip, Savoy, Green Savoy, and Yellow Savoy, and the numberless varieties which tion in British gardens. Gerarde is the oldest English author who has written on this useful vegetable : i vegetables is biennial, triennial and nearly 78 have sprung from them. Classification. — This important family of CABBAGE. 79 CABBAGE. perennial in some of the varieties. It may be divided into — 1. Cabbages proper, which have heads formed of the inner leaves growing c'ose and compactly round the stem, which are thus blanched into a whitish yellow by the outer leaves. 2. Red, or Milan Cabbage, which grows in the same form, but differs in colour. 3. Savoys, distinguished by their curly wrinkled leaves, but retaining the tendency to form a head. 4. Brussel Sprouts, producing the sprouts, or edible part, from the stem in small heads, like very young cabbages. 5. Borecole, of which there are many varieties, having a large open head with large curling leaves. DRUMHEAD CABBAGE. 6. Cauliflower and Broccoli, in which the flower-buds iorm a close fleshy head of I a delicate yellowish white, for which both are cultivated. Cabbage Proper, the. — Of the first of these there are many varieties, some of them valuable for their precocity, which adapts them for early spring cultivation ; others for more enduring qualities. They are all propagated by seed sown for main crops twice a year— namely, in April, for planting out in June and July, for autumn and winter use ; and in August and Septem- ber, for spring use ; but it is usual to make sowings of smaller quantities every month for succession. Cultivation, Soil, &-Y.— The seed is sown on beds four feet wide, and long in proportion to requirements. A bed 4 feet by 20 will take 2 oz. of seed. Sow broad- cast, or in very shallow drills, on a calm day just before rain. Cover the seed to an eighth or a quarter of an inch with rich light soil, and rake it in. The cabbage requires a rich retentive soil, and is improved by early transplanting. When about two inches in height, the young plants should be removed into nursery-beds thoroughly prepared by digging and manuring, and, if dry, by watering, where they are planted four or five inches apart. Here they must remain till well rooted. Their next remove is usually to the place where they are per- manently to grow ; but they will be rather improved than otherwise by an intermediate shift to a second nursery-bed. Planting Out.— In. final planting out, the ground being trenched and well manured, a drill is drawn three inches deep, at a dis- tance proportioned to the size and habit of growth of the variety ; the small or eaily dwarfs at 12 or 15 inches apart in the rows, the larger sorts at 18 inches. The subse- quent culture is confined to weeding and occasionally stirring the earth during summer, and drawing it up round the stem when about eight or nine inches high. Cabbage Fly (Anthomyia brassica). A fly whose larva or maggot causes injury to cabbages in the summer, causing the leaves to assume a yellow and blighted appearance, and to droop under the sun's rays. When the presence of this pest is known or suspected the plants should be removed and burnt, and the ground in which they have been growing should be heavily salted or dressed plentifully with lime. The fly is grey in colour, the male being darker than the female. Cabbage, Planting, in Market Gardens. Towards the end of October a well- conducted market garden is full of cabbages CABBAGE. 80 CABBAGE. just planted out, which in November are strong healthy plants. Before planting, the land is heavily dunged, a two-horse load being used for every thirty yards, which is dug into the ground as it is trenched, the planters following the diggers. This work is carefully superintended ; every man has his twelve feet measured out to him, and the foreman walks before the workmen to see they do their duty. The lines are run along the land as soon as it is ready, at distances two feet apart, trod on in one direction all over the field. The lines are then shifted, and placed at right angles to the other, at the same distance apart, the workmen now only treading on the angles. This done, planting com- mences; the plants, which are usually large well-grown plants, are inserted at the angles; consequently, the plants stand two feet apart each way. Immediately after planting the hoe is sent through the field to loosen the soil: this is frequently re- peated, but no earthing-up. It is one remarkable peculiarity of this mode of cul- ture that slugs are unknown in a well- managed market -garden ; the continual stirring and deep trenching seems to root them out. The moment these cabbages are off the ground, the land is again trenched, and prepared for a fresh crop. Cabbage, Red or Milan. The red cabbage is chiefly used for pick- ling. Its cultivation is in all respects the same as the white cabbage, and the vege- table is only gathered when the head is thoroughly formed, and when so gathered the stem is thrown away as of no further value. . . ~" Cabbage, Savoy. This has been in cultivation in this country since the times of Gerarde (1545- 1607), by whom it is described. It is distinguished by its curly leaves and deep green colour from the cabbage; like it, however, it grows a compact, well- shaped head, and a plentiful crop of sprouts on the stem during winter. Like the others, it is propagated by seeds and cuttings in the spring, sown on a hotbed in February, or on beds in the open ground early in April. Plants will be ready for planting out permanently in May, June, and July. SAVOY CABBAGE; Cultivation, &>c. — In all respects the treatment is the same as with cabbages, removing the plants to a nursery bed when 2 inches high, selecting the strongest plants first. When planted out perma- nently, they should stand 2 feet apart in the rows and 20 inches between the plants ; but it is not unusual to plant them between standing crops of peas or other less per- manent crops, whose place they thus occupy when removed. Cabbage Tribe, Seed Bed for. For all varieties of the cabbage the treat- ment is very nearly the same, and as the directions now to follow will be useful for small seeds generally it will be well to give it, although special instructions for each particular class or variety are given under the special name of each different sort. Let the seed beds be open and away from trees and other shelter, and tolerably dry, but not parched, at the time of sowing. Mark out for each sort its allotted space ; give plenty of room — at least a square rod ; sow the seed broadcast regularly over the CACTUS. CALANDRINIA. ground, so that they do not come up thicker in one part than another ; tread it well in, unless the ground is wet and bind- ing ; in that case stand in the alleys, rake level, and pat the surface with a piece of flat board : this will press the seed in with- out hardening the ground. If dry enough to tread, rake the surface even. If the weather is dry, and continue so, it will be necessary to give the seed bed a copious watering to keep it moist, so that the sur- face does not cake. When the seed is up, keep the beds moist, so as to promote vigorous growth ; giving a liberal dusting of lime, salt, or soot now and then, which will benefit the young plants, and prevent the attacks of the fly. When large enough to handle, thin them, and prick out those drawn in nursery beds five or six inches apart from each other. Cactus (not. ord. Cacta'ce»). An extremely curious and interesting genus of greenhouse perennials, many of the varieties producing magnificent flowers of the most brilliant and striking colours. They succeed best in sandy loam, mixed with brick and lime rubbish and a little peat or rotten dung. They must be well-drained, when planted, and kept dry during the winter months. When they begin to grow in spring they should be freely watered. There are many varieties — too many in fact to be mentioned here. Propagated by offsets struck in beds of light compost under slight protection. It may be added that the various species of cacti are very suitable as permanent window plants. The varieties of creeping cereus, one of which is known as *' rat- tailed " cactus, may be grown in suspended baskets, and last for many years without requiring any change in the soil; they naturally droop and hang down, which gives them an interesting appearance. The globular cacti are curious and interesting and are very numerous. Caladmm (not. ord. Ara'cese). A family of greenhouse plants some of which are evergreen and others herbaceous — valued chiefly on account of their leaves and leaf stalks. The roots are fleshy, but those of some kinds, though bitter and acrid to the taste, are eaten in the tropical countries where they grow. They require rich kcavy soil and copious watering. The CALADIUM VIOLACEUM. herbaceous varieties are propagated by division of the plants and by suckers. The shrubs are increased by cuttings or by part- ing the roots. One of the best known edible varieties is Caladium esculentum. An illustration of C. violaceum is appended to show form of leaves and general habits of the plants. Calandrin'ia (nat. ord. Portuia'ceae). Very beautiful free-flowering plants. Calandrinia discolor and C. grandiflora have large handsome flowers, and are fine for edgings ; C. umbellata is of a trailing habit, and produces profusely its glowing rosy-violet flowers in bunches ; is invaluable for rockwork and dry hot banks, or similar situations, where it will stand for many CALLA. CALCEOLARIAS. years. They succeed best in a light rich soil. They may be raised from seed. The best-known varieties are — Calandrinia discolor, — rose-lilac, hardy herba- ceous perennial, i ft. CALANDRINIA UMBELLATA. Calandrinia grandiflpra, — rose-pink, hardy annual, i ft., herbaceous perennial, better suited for greenhouse. Calandrinia umbellata,— rich rosy-violet, hardy annual, J ft. Calla. See Arum Lily. Calceolaria (nat. ord. Scrophula ria'cese). Calceolarias consist of two kinds — the herbaceous calceolaria, raised and reared under glass for exhibition purposes, and the shrubby calceolaria, grown for bedding- out. The flower of the former, through cultivation, has attained an enormous size and a rich variety of markings, the ground colour being for the most part yellow, blotched, or spotted with brown or crimson. The blossoms of the shrubby calceolaria are small, but very numerous, forming large trusses of flowers, and are either yellow, orange, or a rich dark velvety brown in colour, thus presenting an effective contrast when grown in clumps or masses. Calceolarias, Green Ply on. Green flies hold carnival among the soft delicate leaves of herbaceous- calceolarias, and unless speedily destroyed will consign Tie entire stock to the rubbish heap. For- tunately, the flies on these and cinerarias seem to be partially assimilated to the nature of their food, being very soft and easily destroyed. Calceolarias, Propagation of Herbaceous, from Seed. The seed of this magnificent greenhouse plant should be sown in July and August, in pans well drained, covered with a little rough turfy loam, making up the surface with a very fine, light, sifted mould and silver sand. Water the pans with a very fine rose ; immediately after, sow the seed, no covering of soil being required ; then place the pans in a cold frame, or under a hand-glass, taking care to keep them from any exposure to the sun. When the seed- lings are strong enough, prick them off into pans made up as before, placing them in a close situation. When sufficiently large, pot off singly into 6o-sized pots, placing them on shelves near the glass in the green- house, where the plants will grow very rapidly. Calceolarias, Propagation of Herbaceous, from Cuttings. Very few people now think of growing a named collection of herbaceous calceolarias, a variety of which is shown in the accom- panying illustration. Those who wish to • HERBACEOUS CALCEOLARIA. try must cut them down as soon as they have finished flowering. Place them in a CALCEOLARIAS. CALCEOLARIAS. cold pit to break in, lay in the young shoots when 2 inches long, and when rooted pro- ceed as with seedlings ; or the whole of the old plant may be kept as a single specimen, and if it does not fog off, it will make a grand display next season. Management of Soil, Watering, &c. — Herbaceous calceolarias require great atten- tion as to watering. Remove all decaying leaves as they appear, peg down the shoots to the soil, that they may root up the stems and thus strengthen the plant. As seedlings advance, shift them into larger pots, and prick off those sown for late blooming. In potting use a compost of light turfy loam, well-decomposed manure and leaf-mould, and a liberal portion of silver sand, with an ample drainage of pot- sherds and charcoal, and keep them free from insects. Calceolarias, Propagation of Shrubby, by Cuttings. Take the cuttings early in October, and, having prepared a piece of ground in a north border, the soil of which must be well drained, and made light with a large admixture of sand, place the cuttings in and press the earth well round them, water them well, and cover with a hand-glass ; or place the cuttings in pots, and having sunk them in a north border, under a wall, place a hand-glass or small frame over them. In this way they may be kept with- out further attention till the following spring, unless the weather should be very frosty, in which case it may be well to throw some covering over the hand-glass. In the spring the cuttings should be repotted, and will soon become fine plants. It is to be observed that the state of atmospheric influence most favourable to all cuttings is when a change to moist growing weather succeeds, within two or three days, the dry weather during which the cuttings have been taken. Management, Protection, &c. — It is a good practice to put calceolaria cuttings into cold pits at once, thus : Place 6 inches of broken brickbats, stones," and charcoal for drainage ; another 4 inches of rough leaf-mould, or well-decayed light manure ; on the top of this, 3 inches of soil, com- posed of equal parts loam, leaf- mould, or peat and sand. Spread over the surface i inch of clean sharp silver or other sand, press it down firm with a spade or other contrivance, and water well to consolidate and settle the whole. Next day commence inserting the cuttings 2 inches apart, taking care to plant them firmly ; water the sur- face, which should have an inclination, of 3 inches from back to front, in a pit 7 feet- wide, until it is even, and the process is complete. Keep the glass on ; shade in bright weather, and give scarcely any air for a fortnight. By this time the cuttings will be partially callosed, and may be gradu- ally exposed to more air and full sunlight. In a month or six weeks they will be well rooted, after which the glass should be entirely removed, unless during rain, fog, or frost. During winter they must be pro- tected from the frost by a covering of mats or straw. They will require very little water from November to the middle of February. About this period they will begin to grow rapidly, and may either be potted or kept as cool as possible in the pit, and finally transferred to the flower garden in the middle of May. This is the most successful mode of propagating and storing calceolarias. The maintenance of their roots in an equable, cool, and moist condition is the grand secret of success. To have good beds of calceolarias it is also indispensable to strike a sufficient stock in the autumn. They will strike readily enough in the sharp heat in the spring ; but spring-struck cuttings seldom flower so well, can scarcely be got forward enough to flower early, and, it sul-ituted to a high CALLIOPSIS. CAMELLIA. icmperature, are almost sure to take them- selves off suddenly without leave, leaving yawning vacancies behind, at a time when it is often impossible to replace them. For ease, simplicity, and certainty of success, autumn is the season for furnishing the entire stock oi calceolarias. Calliop'sis (not. ord. Compos'itse). The Calliopsis, or, as it is generally called, Coreopsis, is one of the most showy, free-flowering, and beautiful of hardy annuals. The tall varieties are very effect- live in mixed borders and fronts of shrub- beries ; the dwarf kinds, from their close compact habit of growth, make fine bedding-plants, and are valuable for edg- ings. The different varieties make very CALLIOPSIS, OR COREOPSIS. pretty ribbons. Amongst the tall varieties, C. filifolia is the most graceful and beauti- ful, and C. bicolor or tinctoria the most showy and effective in mixed borders. Most of these are hardy annuals propagated by seed, but some are hardy perennials and evergreens, propagated by cuttings and division of the roots. A light sandy loam is mjst suitable for both kinds. Camellia (nat. ord. Ternstfcemia'cese). The Caw7l3ais an oid-established green- houst favourite, and at one time it was supposed to be essentially a greenhouse plant, It has been found, however, that it is as hardy as the rhododendron, and as easy of culture out of doors. Its robust constitution, dark glossy foliage, and wax- like flowers, render it essentially a useful plant for greenhouse culture for amateurs ; for it will bloom at a time of year when flowers, comparatively speaking, are indeed scarce. December is the month above all others when it is most useful. By inducing early growth and early maturity, it will flower in December from habit, as well, if not better, than in any other month. Camellia,. Culture and Manage ment of. The culture and management of the Camellia throughout the year under glass may be briefly summarised as follows : — Supposing it to finish flowering by the end of December, remove the plant to a peach- house or vinary at work as soon as it can be moved from the conservatory. Shift the plant into a larger pot at once if it requires it ; at all events examine the state of the roots, and act accordingly, remembering, however, that the camellia does best to be under-potted. Some prefer not potting until the growth is finished ; but when the last flower drops is, perhaps, the best time. Almost any soil will grow camellias. Some grow them entirely in peat, some in strong loam, approaching to clay ; and good plants maybe obtained in both. The best soil, however, consists of two parts fibry peat, one fibry loam, one-sixth part sharp silver sand, and one-sixth part rotten •wood, or clean leaf-mould. Keep them in a temperature of 55° to 60° until their growth is made and flower-buds formed. During this period they should be fre- quently syringed, and a humid atmospbere maintained. Towards the end of April gradually remove, by easy transitions, to a cool house or cold pit, and the last week in May to a sheltered situation out of doors, or they may continue in the same house or pk throughout the season. The pot must be CAMELLIA. CAMPANULA. placed on a hard bottom, to prevent the ingress of worms, and the plant should be watered alternately with clean water and weak liquid manure, and finally removed ander glass in October. With such treat- ment their blossoms will expand in Novem- ber or December. In January, at the 'atest, camellias that have been subjected :o the treatment described will be in full bloom, or advancing to this point, and then the gardener's care should be to pro- tect the young expanding buds from cold :urrents of air, and to use as little fire-heat is possible. Named camellias, all hybrid varieties of Camellia Jafonica^ are to be obtained at moderate rates from any nurseryman or grower in any part of the United Kingdom. They are very numerous — far too numerous n fact for a list to be inserted here. In colour they are white, all shades of pink, .•ose, red, and deep red, sometimes shaded jvith a deeper tint, and stiiped white and -ed, or pink and red. Camellias in open air. Among the evergreen plants which are suitable for the shrubbery or border in some of the most southern parts of Eng- '.and, none can excel the Camellia ; and there are a few varieties of this beautiful shrub which do well in the open ground. Any grower will indicate varieties of this plant which are best suited to open-air cultivation. It may be useful to make one or two observations upon their culture and the soil best adapted for them. The soil in which they are planted should be a mixture of peat, leaf- mould, and cow-dung, about two feet deep. Great care should be taken that the plants never suffer from drought. After flowering they should be freely watered with liquid manure, es- pecially if the season be dry. The sur- face of the ground just round the stems of the plants may frequently, with very good effect, be paved with small stones, which assist in keeping the roots cool and moist. As a general rule, the borders on which camellias are planted should not be disturbed more than is necessary to remove the surface weeds. A top-dressing of fresh soil may, with advantage, be given to them every winter. So treated, the hardy sorts of camellias will be found as hardy as most of our common evergreens, and require no protection, except, perhaps, in an unusually severe winter, when a few fir boughs may be placed before or around them. The snow should never be allowed to rest upon their branches. Some growers of camel- lias in the open ground bind straw round the stems of their plants, about five or six inches from the ground, when winter sets in ; this is found a very efficient protection against frost. Campan'ula (««/. ord. cwsipa- nula'cese). A genus of exceedingly beautiful plants, annuals, and hardy biennials ami PC- CAMPANULA PYRAMIDALIS. rennials, characterised by the variety of their colours, profusion and duration of their bloom. Some of them ».re M- markable for their stately growtk, at heat CANARY CREEPER. 86 CANNA. for their close, compact habit. Of the tall-growing hardy perennials Campanula pryramidalis grown in pots, placed about terraces, gravel walks, or the margins of lawns, produces a most striking effect. Of the dwarf varieties, also hardy pe- rennials, C. Carfatica is a most valuable bedding plant, and C. fragilis a beautiful trailer for rock-work and baskets. Cam- panulas well deserve a prominent place in every garden. Canary Creeper. It is the custom with many to regard the Canary Creeper, as Tiopaolum Cana- riense is familiarly called, as a plant which must of necessity be raised and spend its early days in warmth, and there- fore to buy plants in pots for planting out. These seeds may be sown at the end of March, or in April, with every prospect of success, in the open air, and not of necessity in a south aspect. Indeed, this creeper, generally considered so delicate and difficult of culture without heat in its preliminary stage, has been known to grow with the utmost luxuriance in a shady northern aspect never touched by the sun except in early morning and at eventide, and more than this, seeds from the creeper have dropped on the soil, been buried in it, and germinated and grown the following year with all the luxuriance of the parent plant by which they were produced. In fact, they grew so strongly and in such numbers, that the bigger ones strangled the small fry, and they went to the wall, and not to the trellis of the porch of the house, recessed between two square bays, up which the strong plants climbed, to let drop festoons of light green palmate leaves, flecked here and there with crested blooms of brilliant yellow. The moral of all this is : Sow the seeds of this plant as you would those of the ordinary Tropaeolum, but if you must raise them in pots, be content with placing the pots in a sunny window, and as soon as the young plants appear above the soil, give them all the air you can from day to day to strengthen! them before you turn them out into the open air altogether. Candytuft (nat. ord. Cruci'ferse). The candytuft, or Iberis, as it is also called, springs up readily from seed sown in any light rich soil. Autumn is the best time for sowing. The improved varieties of this favourite flower now offered by florists and seeds- CANDVTUFT (DWARF VARIETY). men are exceedingly beautiful, and it may be questioned if any more effective annuals can be selected for a rich crimson purple colour or pure white ; they succeed in any soil. For the names of varieties the reader should consult the lists of the large growers. Can'na or Indian Shot (nat. ord. Maranta'ceas). For the adornment of the conservatory, drawing-room, or flower-garden, these magnificent greenhouse herbaceous pe- rennials are unrivalled ; their stately growth, combined with their rich and various-coloured flowers, and picturesque and beautiful foliage, render them the most strikingly effective of ornamental plants. When intermixed with other plants, or dispersed in pots about ter- races, gravel walks, or on the margins of lawns or lakes, they impart quite an CANTERBURY BELLS. CAPSICUMS. oriental aspect. Being of easy culture and rapid growth, no one need be with- out them. They may be propagated by dividing the roots or by seed. Steep the seeds for a few hours in hot water before sowing, then place the pot in a cucumber- CAJTNA, OR INDIAN SHOT. frame, or some other warm situation ; the plants will be ready to plant out in June, or to shift into larger pots for the decoration of halls, terraces, &c., where they soon become objects of great interest. Canterbury Bells. This beautiful biennial — Campanula CANTERBURY liKLLS. medium — is a variety of the campanula, which sec. Cape Bulbs. Charming in their foliage, abundant in their flowering, and of easy culture, these plants have but one fault,— they are a very short time in flower. Conspicuous among them are the Gladiolus, Ixia, Sparaxis, Tritonia, Watsonia, and Ano- matheca ; all remarkable for the delicacy, brilliancy, and distinctness of their flowers. In the open ground, a south border, sheltered by a north wall, is most suitable for their growth. It should be well drained, nothing being more prejudicial to them than a wet bottom ; the soil turfy loam, a little peat or leaf-mould, and a little sand. The bulbs should be planted about six inches deep any time in October, and during the winter months the bed should be covered a few inches thick with tan or dry litter, removing it as soon as pretty fair weather sets in in the spring. When grown in pots, the same soil will suit them ; potted in October, they should be protected in a cold frame or pit. They will require little or no water till they begin to grow in spring. When they have made a little growth, they may either be planted out in a warm border, or placed on the shelves of the greenhouse near the lights, and watered regularly to keep them in a growing state till the foliage shows signs of maturity ; water must then be withheld. When at rest they should be kept quite dry. Cap'sieums. Pretty ornamental plants, especially in autumn, when covered with their light scarlet fruit. From the capsicum cayenne pepper is made. Preparation of the Soil. — These thrive best in a rich, yet light and free soil ; and whether grown in pots or planted out, the soil should be of this description. Time and Manner of Sowing. — The CAPSICUMS. CARDOON. seed should be sown early in March, in well-drained pots filled with light sandy soil, and placed in a cucumber- frame, or wherever a temperature of about 65° is maintained. Cover the seed to the depth of about half an inch, and keep the surface constantly moist until the plants appear. When the plants are strong enough to handle, pot them off, placing two or three plants in a 5-inch pot, and replacing them in the warmth. Keep them rather close until they become established, then shift into 7-inch pots; and when they are fairly established in these, remove them, if intended for the open ground, to a cold franre, and gradu- ally prepare them for planting out by CAPSICUM (7>ar. GOLDEN DAWN). a freer exposure to the air. Those in- tended to grow in pots under glass should be shifted into lo-inch pots as soon as they require more space for their roots, and be stopped, so as to cause them to form bushy plants ; they must be liberally watered and syringed over head during very dry weather. Those intended for the open garden may be planted in pro- perly prepare! situations towards the end of May, protecting them by hand-glasses or any more convenient contrivance til they are fairly established. They must be liberally watered during hot, dry weather. In favoured localities most of the varieties do better planted out than when grown in pots under glass ; but they will not succeed in the open air except in warm, dry situations. Cardoon. A perennial in its native country, — the shores of the Mediterranean,— it becomes an annual in this country, the first sowing taking place in the beginning of March, on a very slight hotbed ; in April, on the natural ground ; and again in June, for next spring's crop. The trenches are dug as for celery, and moderately manured with well - decomposed dung. In sowing, two or three seeds are sown together in a clump, 12 inches apart. Should each vegetate, remove all but one, when six inches high. When the plant is 1 8 inches high, put a stake to it, and tie the leaves lightly to it, earthing- up the stem at the same time, like celery. Throughout the summer water copiously and frequently with soft water and a little guano, to prevent flowering. In Septem- ber, the early crop will be fit for use ; remove the earth carefully, take the plant up by the roots, which cut off; the points of the leaves also cut oft' to where they are solid and blanched. These are carefully washed, the parts CARNATION. 89 CARNATION. of the leaf stalks left tied to the stem, and they are ready for the cook. Carnation, Pico tee, and Pink. The carnation and picotee are varieties of the Dianthus Caiyophyllus, improved and brought into their present condition by cultivation. The pink owes its origin to the D. plumarius. The chief distinction between the carnation and the picotee is that the colour of the former is disposed in unequal stripes going from the centre to the outer edge ; that of the pico- tee is disposed on the outer edges of the petals, radiating inwards, and uniformly disposed. Carnations are classified as Selfs, Flakes, and Bizarres. Selfs are dominance of the colour that is found in the markings. The edges of the petals of the carnation are smooth, those of j the pink are generally jagged or notched. The pink, for the most part, has a dark eye, and sometimes a zone of the same colour as the eye midway between the base of the petal and the edge. Carnations, picotees, and pinks are propagated by seeds, layers, cuttings, and pipings, the last-named mode being usually adopted foi pinks Propagation by Seeds. — Sow seeds in May in pots, or small boxes, or seed CARNATION. carnations of one colour only, without marks, and without shading. Flakes are those which have the ground colour, be it what it may, striped with one colour only. In these the ground is generally white, and the stripes are scarlet, rose, or purple ; and in accordance with the colour of the stripes, they are distinguished as scarlet, rose, or purple flakes. Bizarres are those which have the ground marked and flaked with two or three colours, and these are distinguished as crimson, pink, or purple bizarres, according to the pre- pans, in soil similar to that which will be described presently as a useful com- post for growing carnations, and place in an airy but sheltered part of the garden. When the plants are up, and show five^or six leaves, plant out in beds composed of the same rich soil, and about 10 inches apart. Protect during winter with a cold frame. Many of the seed- lings will bloom in the following summer. Propagation by Layers. — The season for propagating by layers is in July and August. The modus operandi is very distinctly exhibited in the accompanying illustration, and may be described as follows : — Having selected the shoots to CARNATION. CARNATION. be layered, and prepared pegs for pegging them down, and made a small trench in the soil for their reception, add a little sand where the layers are to be placed, working it into the soil. Prepare each shoot by trimming off all the leaves with a sharp knife, except 5 or 6 inches at the top ; then, with a thin-bladed knife, make an incision half through the shoot with an upward cut, beginning below a joint, and passing it through it for about an inch or so. Bend the layer down into the sandy soil prepared for it, pegging it down in that situation in such a manner as to keep the slit or tongue open, and cover it with cable to pinks than carnations. Pipings MODE OF LAYERING CARNATIONS. fi, rich light compost. Two days after- wards, when the wound is healed, a gentle watering will be beneficial. Propagation by Cuttings. — Cuttings are made by taking off shoots which cannot be conveniently layered, cutting them right through A joint with an oblique angular cut, and planting them in pots or beds prepared with mixed compost and sand. Propagation by Pipings. — Piping consists in drawing out tne young shoots from the joints, and inserting it into a light, sandy soil, when it takes root. As it has been laid, it is a process more generally appli- should be struck under a hand-glass, and when well rooted, should be planted in a bed, in rows 6 inches apart, and 3 inches between the plants. Supposing the pipings to be taken in June or early in July, they should remain in the bed until September, when they may be transferred to another bed, or to pots, in a compost thoroughly incorporated, consisting of two-thirds loam from decayed turf, and one-third well- decomposed cow-dung. If in pots, let them be 4^ inch pots, having a few crocks in the bottom, and the pots filled with compost. Lift the plants carefully, with- out breaking the fibres, adjusting the soil so as to place the plant in its proper position, spreading out the roots on the soil, and filling up the pot nearly to the edge. The roots must not be sunk too deep, but the soil on the top must be on a level with the collar of the plant. When gently watered, the pots may be placed in a common garden frame, and the glass closed for twenty-four hours. Throughout the winter the plants give very little trouble, seldom requiring water, but need- ing all the air that can be given them. In March they should be repotted in the pots in which they are to bloom. These should be 8£ inch pots, with I inch at least of crocks for drainage ; the soil as before. Potting Layers. — Where layers of carna- tions and picotees are potted, the potting should be done in October, when they will be well rooted. The best plan appears to be to place them singly into small pots for the winter months. In this way they can be packed closely under common frames in old tan or cinder ashes. Let the newly potted layers have all the air possible in fine weather. If the winter prove severe, it will be necessary to cover the glass with mats, straw, or long litter. Soily c. — With us the plant is treated as an annual, although it may, like all the race, be propagated from cuttings. In 'order to keep up a succession, three or four sowings should be made in the season, the first sowing being made on a slight hotbed in February, or very early in March. This is done by digging awaym'^ few inches of the soil the size of tMT intended bed, filling it up to a few inches above the surrounding soil with fresh stable-dung which has been well turned, CAULIFLOWER. CAULIFLOWER. covering the bed with the soil removed, raking it, and patting it smooth with the back of the spade. On this bed sow the seed, raking it in, or sifting fine soil over it, and covering it with hand-glasses, and otherwise protecting it when necessary. Early in April a second and larger sowing should be made in the open ground, and a third and last sowing about the middle of August to stand through the winter. Cultivation, Transplanting^ &c. — All sowings should be made on beds of rich light soil, thoroughly pulverised by digging, and neither too dry nor too moist, 4^ feet wide, and long in proportion to the re- quirements of the garden, half an ounce of s^ed being sufficient for a lo-foot bed. In very dry weather the seed-beds should receive a copious watering the night before sowing. When the plants are large enough to be handled, transplant them to nursery- beds of rich soil, well manured, pricking them out four inches apart each way. Some authorities recommend a second removal when the roots have formed a compact mass, in order to check the growth of stem and promote balling. In June the April sowings will be fit to plant out where they are to grow ; in September they will be heading, and will continue to improve up to the frosts of early winter. Like all the Brassicas, the cauliflower requires a rich, deep soil and an open spot, but sheltered from the north. An old celery- or asparagus-bed, from which the plants have been lifted for forcing, is excellent. If none such is at liberty, let the ground be well trenched three feet deep, and manured with good rotten dung, thoroughly incorporated with the soil in digging, bearing in mind that the delicacy and freshness of the vegetable depend on its rapid and vigorous growth when once started. On the ground thus prepared plant the young seedlings 2£ feet apart each way. The after - cultivation is very simple ; careful weeding, stirring the soil from time to time with the hoe, and drawing the earth about their roots, and copious water- ing at the roots in dry weather, include the necessary routine. Cauliflower, Autumn Sown, Treatment of. The autumn-sown plants are usually pricked out under frames for protection during winter, keeping them clear of weeds and decaying leaves, stirring the soil occasionally, and giving plenty of air in fine weather, protecting them from frost and rain. As they advance, and begin to head under hand or bell-glasses, every opportunity should be taken of giving air ; in severe weather protect the frames and hand-glasses by packing litter round them. When the heads begin to appear, shade them from sun and rain by breaking down some of the larger leaves, so as to cover them. Water in dry weather, previously forming the earth into a basin round the stern, and pour the water into the roots, choosing the evening in mild weather for so doing, and the morning when the air is frosty. Transplanting, &c. — Some gardeners advocate the transplanting of autumn seedlings as soon as they have made a few roots, into oo-sized pots, which are placed in an open airy frame, or • other sheltered place having facilities for protect- ing them from frost. As they fill the smaller pots with their roots, they are transplanted into larger ones, taking care that the roots never get matted in their pots ; and early in February the first crop is placed out on a south border, the holes prepared for them having received a barrowful of thoroughly rotten dung, over which the mould is replaced, forming a little hillock on which the cauliflowers are CEANOTHUS. 97 CELERIAC. planted. They are covered with the hand-glass till thoroughly established. By pursuing this course all check on the vigorous growth of the plant is avoided, while the tendency to increased luxuriance, so necessary in plants whose leaves or flowers are eaten, is encouraged. Watering. — After planting out, copious watering should be given in the mornings in dull, cloudy weather, or in the evenings after bright sunshine. Treatment of, during Winter. — On the approach of winter, the plants in flower may be taken up with as much earth at their roots as possible, and planted, or rather laid in by the roots, on their sides, in a light sandy soil, in some warm, sheltered place, where the frost can be excluded. In such a shed or frame they may be kept fresh and in condition for many weeks. Another way of protecting and preserving them is to dig pits in the ground, and to plant the cauliflowers in them, coveiing them with frames of long wheat straw, tied together in small bundles, and giving them air in fine weather. Ceano'thus (nat. ord. Rhamna'ceae). An extremely handsome, free-flowering genus of highly ornamental half-hardy shrubs, suitable either for conservatory decoration, or for covering fronts of villas, walls, or trellis-work in warm situations ; they succeed best in peat and loam. Some are hardy deciduous shrubs, and others evergreen shrubs, suitable only for green- houses and hothouses. Of the hardy de- ciduous plants, Ceanothus Americanus and C. azureus are, perhaps, the best known. which is large enough to admit it, and where it can have shelter from the wind. In its original habitat it attains 120 feet in height, and is frequently 40 feet in cir- cumference. It is distinguished from all others by its handsome pyramidal form and beautiful glaucous green foliage. In speaking of its excellence as a timber tree, Mr. Loudon says, " The wood is very compact and resinous, and has a fragrant smell, remarkably fine and of close grain, capable of receiving a very high polish — so much so, indeed, that a table formed of a section of a trunk, 4 feet in diameter, sent by Dr. Wallich to Mr. Lambert, has been compared to a slab of brown agate." Df. Royle says that the wood is particularly durable, and is much used in the construc- tion of Himalayan houses. In Cashmere it is used for both public and private buildings, and likewise for biidges and boats. Strips of it are also burnt as candles. Ce'drUS Deoda'ra. See Pines and Firs. Celeriac. The plant known as celeriac or turnip- '\ rooted celery is u biennial, and is distin- Cedars. The genus CELERIAC. Cedrtts, the cedar, is an guished from celery itself, whose flavour it important section of the conifers from which to make a selection. Among its members Cfdrus Deodara is conspicuous, It should have a place on every lawn possesses, by its thick, fleshy, turnip-like root. Its cultivation is simple and easy. The seed is first sown in the same way and at the same time as that of ordinary celery. CELERY. 98 CEIiERY. The young plants should be set about 3 inches apart in boxes in a cool house, or in beds of rich mould, and when large enough and sufficiently hardened off, the plants should be transferred to an open piece of ground and set about 12 or 15 inches apart. As the leaf-stalks are not blanched, the plant being grown for the root only, there is no occasion to plant it in trenches. The roots may be taken up and stored in an outhouse when ready for use, which will be about the end of October or beginning of November. Celery. As this most valuable vegetable is usually put on table as an accompaniment to cheese in the winter months, during which it is in season, it has been included among those which are comprised in the " salad " sec- tion. It must be borne in mind, however, that it is equally good and useful when stewed and served in white sauce, and that few soups are perfect in which celery or celery seed has not been used as flavouring. Propagation, <5rv. — Celery is propagated by seed, which is best obtained from the seedshops. It may be sown in any month from Christmas to April. To get plants for the table in September, seeds should be sown in February in pans, which should be placed on a moderate hotbed. In about three weeks they will germinate, and, when about 2 inches high, the plants should be pricked out under glass, either in a frame or in pots, in a compost of loam, and three- parts well-rotted dung. If in pots, shift them in April, and at the end of May plant them in shallow trenches in a warm part of the garden. If the trenches are dug out to the depth of 2 feet, 6 inches of hot dung placed in the bottom to stimulate the plants, the soil replaced, and the plants put in and covered with hand-glasses, an early crop will be the result. A second sowing should be made in March, still on a hotbed or on pans, or protected by sashes and mats until the plants are up ; when fit to handle, they should be pricked out on a slight hotbed, or on a warm border. After a few weaks they should be again transplanted into a similar bed, and placed 4 or 5 inches apart each way. In July the plants will be fit to plant out in trenches for autumn use. A third sowing in April, treated in a similar manner, will be ready for winter use, prick- ing them out in fresh loam and decomposed leaf-mould when large enough to handle. Planting out in Trenches. — The plants should be placed 8 inches apart in the trenches, and the trenches from 4 to 6 feet apart, according to the size of plants re- quired. The trenches should be about 15 inches wide and the plants should be planted in a single row along the middle of each trench. When the plants are about 1 8 inches high, blanching commences by throwing the soil round the roots and ridging up, the intermediate ground being planted with coleworts, lettuce, and other light crops likely to be off before the celery requires earthing-up. CuthiWs Mode of Trenching. — The mode of cultivation recommended by Mr. Cuthill "is to dig out a trench two spades deep and 5 to 6 feet wide, banking up the mould on either side of the bottom of tnc CELERY. 99 CELERY. trench ; fill in a foot of the strongest manure, such as decomposed cow dung, a"nd cover it over with 3 or 4 inches of mould for planting in ; or if the ground is very rich, half the quantity of manure. The plants are then taken direct from the beds and planted, root and head entire, not trimmed — a plan which ought to be dis- continued in everything." Preparation of the Plants. — In order to avoid anything approaching a check to the plants, they are taken up and eveiy root and leaf carefully preserved, the bottom of the larger outside leaves carefully examined, and every bud and sucker carefully removed with the point of the knife. Some cultiva- tors go so far as to cut the beds in which the plants are growing into square pieces, and removing the whole mass with the plant by introducing a trowel under it, and planting it bodily in its new abode. Watering and Shading. — Immediately after planting, a copious watering should be given. In its wild state, celery delights in situations where it can receive an un- limited supply of moisture ; and nature is always an excellent guide where cultivation is concerned. Celery trenches should, then, throughout their growth receive abundant supplies of water. When planted, the bed or trench is usually a few inches below the neighbouring soil. The trenches should have some means of shading from the glare of the noonday sun ; old lights, bushes of firs, or other dense objects, for a few hours every day, will suffice. Crops of peas are sometimes grown between the rows to afford the required shelter, and there can be no more economical mode of supplying it, provided the rows run from north to south, and are sufficiently apart to admit of it. Subsequent Treatment. — The subsequent treatment of celery is very simple. Re- move all side shoots and weeds, stir the earth frequently, and water whenever re- quired, occasionally with weak manure water ; sometimes adding a little quicklime to the water for the benefit of worms and slugs. If the celery fly appears, a little soot, applied dry or in water, and sprinkled over the foliage, will be useful. After these waterings, a thin covering of dry soil thrown over the trench will check evapora- tion. As the time for banking up ap- proaches, it is the practice in some places to tie the plants up with bast strings, partly to keep the outer leaves in proper order, but partly also to assist in the blanching process. When lightly tied up at the top, the centre is encouraged to rise and swell. Earthing-up Celery. — With regard to banking up or earthing-up celery, it has been a question whether the operation should be performed at once, or progres- sively, putting it on a little at a time. Mr. Judd, a very successful grower, in a report on this subject made to the Horticultural Society, points out " that it is not well to load the plants with too much mould at once ; the first two mouldings, therefore, are done very sparingly, and with the com- mon draw hoe, forming a ridge on each side of the plants, and leaving them in a hollow to receive the full benefit of the rain and waterings. When they are strong enough to bear water, the moulding is better done with the spade, still keeping the plants in a hollow, and continuing the process through the autumn, gradually diminishing the breadth at top till it is drawn at last to as sharp a ridge as possible to stand the winter." In order to prevent the earth falling on part of the plants, Mr. Judd took a long line made of bast, tied the end round the first plant in a row, twisted it round the second, and so round each plant in succession, fastening it to the last in the row. When the moulding was finished, he removed the line. By this means he contrived to earth up the plants without injuring them in any way. CELERY. ICO CELOSIA. Mr. Cu thill performed the operation entirely with the spade ; no hand- earthing was employed. Parallel lines were stretched on each side of the row and 18 inches from the plant, and the mould was cut out of the alleys to form the blanching ridge, the whole being effected at three different times, and not commenced until the plants were 18 inches high. Blanching Celery with Drain Pipes. — The following method has been recom- mended for blanching celery, which merits attention. Under this plan the celery is planted out about 15 or 18 inches apart, on a well-manured and well-pulverised piece of ground, and it is allowed to grow to its full size, the ground in the meantime being kept well stirred between. The plants should be freely watered in dry weather, and with liquid manure, unless the ground has been mulched with short well-rotted dung laid between them. When it is desired to blanch it, get a number of 4-inch drain pipes about 1 8 inches long , place one over each plant, hold the leaves and stalks together, and fill up with sand ; it will blanch clean, and is easily taken up. A great many more may thus be grown on a given space, the waste of room between the trenches, as in the ordinary method, being unnecessary. To protect from frost, place litter between ; but very sharp frosts alone will injure them. The cost of pipes will be saved in the reduction of the neces- sary labour. The sand may be collected and used again, or it will be an excellent dressing for the ground, if heavy. Lifting Celery. — In lifting celery, "always begin at one end of a row," says Mr. Mclntosh, " taking the plants up by the roots, and carefully avoid bruising the stems or breaking the leaves.'* Cut the roots off, and bur}' them in the trench j but remove the plant to the vegetable house. Remove the outer leaves to be washed, and reserved for soups. The centre part care ully examine, and remove discoloured por- tions ; and when washed clean, dip it in clear salt and water, to dislodge any small worms ; this done, it passes out of the gardener's care. As frost sets in, a quantity of the crop for immediate use should be taken up ; removing the roots and soil, and tying, the leaves together, convey them to the root cellar, and lay them in sand, not too dry, Look to them from time to time, to see that they do not get too dry. There are many kinds of celery in culti- vation. Of late years various new sorts have been introduced, and it is better to re- fer the reader to the growers' price lists for these than to give a list here, which in a very brief time may require alteration. Celo'sia, or Cockscomb (not. ord. Amarantha'cese.) Elegant and free-flowering half-hardy annuals, producing in the greatest pro- fusion spikes of the most beautiful flowers. Some of the varieties have long, beautiful, slender flower-spikes, which may be dried CELOSIA CRISTATA, OF COCKSCOMB. for winter bouquets ; others, again, have feathery or mossy plumes. Plants of the celosia flower freely if planted out in June in a warm, sheltered situation ; grown in pots, they are the most graceful of green- house and conservatory plants, and with a little management may be had in flower the whole winter. They are exceedingly valuable for dinner-table decoration. They CENTAUREA. 101 CHERRY. are raised from seed sown on a hotbed or over gentle bottom heat in March ; it is better to re-pot them frequently before finally transferring them to their blooming quarters in larger pots. The coxcomb of the florists is Celosia Crist ata, remarkable for its large deep crimson blossom, which appears on the top and sides of the broad expansion into which the stem extends at the top. Centau'rea (not. ord. JUtera'cea). Hardy annuals and biennials raised from seeds in any good garden soil. Biennials should be sown in March, and the annuals in April. The best known are Centaur ea cyanus, whose baautiful blue blossom is known as the Bluebottle, Bluet, or Corn- flower, and C. depressa, which has a blue flower with a brownish-red centre. Ce'rasus. In the Cerasus tribe are included the common laurel, Cerasus laurocerasus, and C. Lusitanica, the Portugal laurel, both of which are too valuable for ornamental planting to be passed by. Laurus nobilis, the common bay, is useful as well as ornamental ; but this belongs really to the genus Laurus, which contains, besides the variety now under notice, only one other, namely, Laurus Benzoin , also known as Lindera Benzoin, the Benjamin Shrub, or Spice Bush. (nat. ord. Palmse). The Chamaerops, or Fan Palm, is a splendid plant of oriental appearance, pro- ducing a striking effect if planted out in lawns or pleasure-grounds. It is also valu- able for conservatory decoration ; succeeds best in rich loamy soil. It requires protec- tion during the winter. It is propagated by suckers from the parent plant, or by seeds. CHAM^ROPS, OR FAN PALM. Chelo'ne (nat. ord. Scrophularia'cese). A beautiful hardy herbaceous plant, with showy pentstemon-like flowers, very effec- tive in centres of beds, or groups in mixed borders ; thrives in any rich soil. Propa- gated by division of the roots in August and September. Cherry (Ceratus). The chief varieties of the cherry are the Kentish, Duke, and Morello, and from these it is supposed that all others have originated. The first named and those de- rived from it are the best for cooking pur- poses ; the Duke, and the sorts obtained from it, for eating ; and the Morello for preserving and making cherry brandy, for which purpose the Kentish is also used. Propagation and 7^raining. — The cherry is propagated by budding on stocks usually obtained from the stones of the wild black cherry, or in the case of standards by graft- ing on stocks of the wild cherry. Trees for training on walls are generally worked on the St. Lucie plum. Its treatment, like that of the plum, is precisely the same as that laid down for the training of the pear. (See Pruning generally). It may be grown in any form. Soil, &c. — The soil best suited for tkyj cherry is a rich deep loam, well CHERRY. 102 CHERRY. and with a dry subsoil. Cherries for the table, if planted against a wall, should have a southern aspect ; but the Kentish and Morello Cherry will bear well and ripen their fruit on a north, north-east, or north-west wall. On walls careful training is necessary, but for orchards the best form is that of the standard or pyramid. Cherry, Varieties of. The following are excellent varieties of cherries, arranged, as far as possible, in the order of ripening : — (i) WHITE HEART, EARLY. i. Frogmore Biggareau. 2. Elton Heart. 3. Governor Wood 4 Adam's Crown Heart. (2) WHITE HEART, LATE. 1. Kentish Biggareau or Amber. 2. Biggareau Napoleon. 3. Large French Biggareau. (3) BLACK. 1. Werder's Early Black Heart. 2. Old Black Heart. 3. Black Cluster or Carone. 4. Black Biggareau. (4) RED OK MORELLO. 1. Kentish. 2. Flemish. 3. Morello. Cherry Clack. With birds, as with human beings, it is found that too much familiarity breeds con- tempt, and that however cleverly scare- crows may be constructed their want of motion begets suspicion in the birds that they are intended to alarm ; and rinding eventually that the supposed guardian of the seed or fruit, as the case may be, remains silent and motionless, they draw nearer and nearer, and ultimately hop round it and about it, treating it with the contempt that it fully deserves. Motion, noise, and glitter are the things which birds mostly dislike. They will avoid pieces of paper and feathers tied to string or twine and stretched over seed beds, though the string, if plainly discernible, will keep them off, even without paper or feathers attached to it. The fluttering of the paper is strange to them, the net-like cords abhorrent, and so they keep awry from the spot that is thus protected. Figures of soldiers and sailors, whose arms end in fans that are turned by the action of the wind, formed in the semblance of broadswords, are disliked by the birds on account of the whirling and twirling that they keep up in every direc- tion, according to the way of the wind. But worse than these is the appliance known as the cherry clack, which turns about as CHERRY CLACK. rapidly as these, and keeps up a perpetual rapping in even a moderately brisk breeze, with its castanet-like fittings. The cherry clack is figured in the accompanying illus- tration, and consists, first of all, of a long axle, having four fans, slightly inclined to a plane at right angles to it, placed at one end. When the wind blows, its pressure on the fans causes the axle to revolve with greater or less rapidity. The axle is sus- tained by a framework, consisting of an upright piece fitted to another piece of wood, which is bored through to receive a pin set on a pole on which the whole affair CHERVIL. 103 CHILIS. will turn. A broad piece of wood is mortised to the first piece, and placed in a horizontal position, and from the end of this rises a small support to carry the other end of the axle. At a point intermediate between the supports a framing in the form of a cross is fixed, and to the end of each arm a piece of hard wood is loosely jointed by a pin on which it turns freely. As the fans tuin, carrying with them the axle and the cross that is fixed on it, the pieces of wood knock in succession against the hori- zontal piece of the support, and keep up a rattle that is anything but pleasant to those who are within earshot of it. Chervil. For summer use this salad herb should be sown in March or April, on soil well dug over and manured, in drills about 9 inches apart. The sowing may be made on a warm sunny border ; but for winter use a warm and dry situation should be selected, in which a sowing should be made in August. The winter crop will need protection when the nights are frosty; this may be afforded by mats sustained on bent sticks. Chicory, Succory or Wild Endive. The tender shoots of the chicory, whose CHICORY, OR WILD ENDIVE, KNOWN IN FRANCE AS " BARBE-UE-CAI'UCIN." root when baked and ground is used in the adulteration of coffee, form a useful ingredient for salads in the winter season. The plants from which the shoots are obtained are got from seed sown in the middle of spring, in drills about 9 inches apart, the plants being thinned out to the same distance apart in the drills. In the winter the roots should be taken up, and put in boxes in light soil. The boxes should then be placed in any warm position in which the growth of the sprouts from the roots will be excited by the heat. The light must be carefully excluded from the growing shoots in order to blanch them and to keep them in a crisp and tender state. Chilis. The fruit of the chili, like that of the capsicum, is extremely hot and pungent. That of the capsicum is useful for pickling and for eating, when fresh and cut up and in- fused in vine- gar, with roast mutton. Chilis also are used for pickling, and for infu- sion in vinegar. They are usually grown in the greenhouse, in which the fruit will ripen, and where they present a pretty appear- ance in contrast with the flowers that are growing there. Their culture is simple and easy : the plants must be raised from seed sown in a hot-bed, or placed over gentle bot- tom heat, and as they increase in size they must be shifted singly into small pots at first, and thence into CHILI PEPPER (PLANT). CHILI PEPPER (FRUIT). CHINA ROSES. 1 04 CHOROZEMA. larger pots, as may be found necessary. Capsicums and chilis can be used in the green state as well as when ripe and red, and those who are content with the fruit in this condition may set the plants in the open border at the end of June. They will not ripen their fruit in this position. China Roses. See Roses, China. Chi'onodox'a (nat. ord. Lilia'cea). This bulb requires similar treatment to that accorded to bulbs generally (see Bulbs ', Form and Classification, et seq.). The mean- ing of the name is " Glory of the Snow," by which it is better known, perhaps, to many. It does well out of doors, and may be grown in cold frames or a cool green- house. It thrives in a compost of peat, sand, and loam in equal proportions, if potted. It is propagated by seeds and offsets. The best known variety is Ohio- nodoxa Lucilioe^ with blossoms of intense blue and white. Chisel. Sometimes old trees of considerable size are renovated by cutting off the head and inserting grafts into the stumps of the branches that are left on the main stem or trunk. The branches are first removed with the saw ; but as a saw cut is ragged, and a clean, smooth cut is always necessary for the quicker and more effectual healing of the wound thus inflicted, the rough surface produced by the abrading action of the teeth of the saw must be smoothed over with a chisel. For this purpose the ordinary carpenter's chisel will do, always provided that it is at least one inch in breadth, and very sharp. Sometimes the chisel has to be called into action to slit or notch a stock for the purpose of grafting, and for this purpose a chisel termed the garden chisel is used, which differs from the carpenter's chisel in being wedge-shaped by bevelling on both sides instead of on one only. There is a strong chisel, known as the forest chisel, used in forestry for separating small branches close to the bole or trunk with a clean cut. The blade is broad, and sometimes has pro- jections curving backwards on both sides, which are usually called ears ; the handle is from six to ten feet in length, so that branches that are some distance up the trunk of a tree can be lopped off with facility. The edge of the chisel is placed under the branch, and the end of the handle is then struck with a mallet. In pruning orchards, a variety of the forest chisel is used, having a guard at a little distance from the edge of the blade to prevent it from penetrating into the wood beyond a certain distance, and thus causing an injury which was never intended. With a chisel of this kind a large bough may be severed by carry- ing the chisel cuts round it ; but any neces- sity for its use is obviated by using the saw and smoothing the cut over with a chisel afterwards. Chives. A hardy perennial propagated by di- vision of the roots in spring or autumn, thriving in any ordinary garden soil. The plants should be set in the ground in small clumps or bunches about 9 inches apart each way. The onion-like leaves — like in shape and flavour — are useful in soups, salads, &c., and are preferable, for the former being less strong in flavour than the onion. They are useful also for cutting up and mixing with the food of turkeys newly hatched. Choroze'ma (not. ord. Legumino'sa). Chorozemas are a most interesting genus of plants from Australia, which bloom almost the whole year, more especially in the winter and early spring, and are consequently most acceptable additions to our greenTioncAc; nnd conservatories. CHOROZEMA. 1C* CHOROZEMA. They are not very difficult to manage, and are alike useful for decoration and as cut flowers for bouquets, at a time when such flowers are valuable. They delight in a rich turfy peat, mixed with fibrous loam and leaf-mould and gritty sand. When recently potted, they require a close pit or the warm part of a green house, and cautious watering, until they get into free growth. When thoroughly established, water with clear liquid manure twice a week. Propagation. — Chorozemas are propa- gated by cuttings of the half-ripened young wood, taking off in July or August, taking (he short, stiff, or weaker medium growth, but avoiding twigs of a robust habit. These, after being trimmed, should be about one inch long, and must be inserted in sand, under protection of a bulb-glass. In preparing the pots for the cuttings, take care to drain thoroughly, by half filling them with potsherd ; then place fibrous peat about an inch deep over the drainage, and fill up with clean sand. After the cuttings are in, place the pots in a close cold-frame, water when necessary, and wipe the condensed moisture from the inside of the glass twice or thrice a week. Here the cuttings must remain until they are cicatrised, when they may be removed to a wanner situation, and the pots plunged in a very slight bottom heat, and in a few weeks they will be ready to pot off. If it is late in the season before the cuttings are ready to pot oft", they should remain in the cutting pots through the winter, and be potted off in February ; but if they are ready for single pots in September, they will be much benefited by being potted oft early. Soil, Potting, &*<:. — Having selected dwarf, healthy, bushy, well-rooted speci- mens from your stock of young plants, prepare the following compost : — Rich fibrous peat, two parts ; leaf mould, one part ; rich turfy loam, two parts ; clean potsherd and charcoal, broken to the size of horse beans, one part ; with sufficient gritty sand to make the whole, when mixed, light and porous. Having prepared this compost, examine the root of each plant, and if it be strong and healthy, prepare for its reception a pot two sizes larger than that in which it has been growing, and proceed to pot, placing some of the roughest part of the compost over the drainage, and fill up with the finer soil. Management. — After potting, place them in a close frame or pit, taking care to ventilate freely ; but keep a moist atmos- phere, and shut up for an hour or two every evening, and open it again before retiring for the night. Attention must be paid to stopping the rude shoots, so as to induce close compact, and healthy growth. If the plants progress as they ought, they will require a second shift during the season. The plants should be kept growing until the winter fairly sets in, at which time they should be brought to a state of rest. In the second year some of the plants will have a nice head of bloom ; but in order to produce rapid growth, remove the bloom-buds when quite young, and keep the plants vigorously growing through the second season. If the plant is in good health and the pot full of roots, a shift any time between Christmas and October will not hurt them ; never shift a plant until the pot is full of vigorous roots, and also take especial care that the roots do not become matted before you shift. Manure Water. — Manure-water in a weak state may be used with advantage ; but use it with caution, and not more than twice a week. That prepared from sheep's dung and soot is best, and it must be used in a perfectly clear state. Treatment for Red Spider and Mil- CHOROZEMA. 1 06 CHRYSANTHEMUM. dew.— Chorozemas are subject to attacks of red spider and mildew. The best remedy is sulphur and water vigorously and plentifully supplied. Take a plant and lay it on its side in the open air, then with a syringe wash it thoroughly; after watering, dust it with sulphur, and repeat the dressing until the pest is destroyed. Varieties. — The following are some of the most distinct and beautiful of the series which are met with in cultivation — C. angustifolium, — a remarkably graceful shrub, with long, slender, and somewhat scrambling stem, having linear acute leaves with recurved margins, and racemes of pretty flowers, of which the standard is orange-yellow and the wings crimson-purple. Flowers in March and April. Height ij feet. This variety was formerly called Dillwynia Gly chief olia. C. cordatum, — an elegant dwarf shrub, with many slender branches, clothed with sessili- cordate, obtuse, spiny-toothed leaves, and bearing the flowers in more or less drooping racemes. They are orange in the standard, with scarlet or crimson wings, sometimes scarlet with purple. Flowers in March and April. Height i foot. C. Dicksoni, — a handsome dwarf bushy-growing shrub, furnished with narrow leaves, and bearing a profusion of beautiful dull scarlet and yellow flowers. Flowers from March to September. Height 3 feet. C. diversifolium, — a very beautiful small shrub, with slender, twining or scrambling stems, the leaves of which are elliptic, lanceolate, obpvate, or cuneate, and the flowers pale orange in the standard, tinged with crimson, the wings being crimson ; they grow in long drooping racemes. Flowers from April to July. Introduced 1839. C. Henchmanni, — a hairy shrub, with short twiggy branches, covered with needle-shaped leaves, and bearing numerous axillary racemes of flowers of a light scarlet, with a yellow mark at the base of the standard. Flowers from April to June, and sometimes till September. Height 3 feet. C. ilicifolium, — a diffuse spreading shrub, with oblong, lamceolate, pinnatifidly spinous leaves, and bearing scarlet flowers ; the standard marked with yellow at the base. Flowers from March to October. Height 3 feet. Introduced 1803. C. yarium, — a dwarf compact-growing species with variable leaves ; in some forms broadly ovate, toothed, and spiny on the margin; in others almost entire, and sometimes nearly round in outline. The flowers are very numerous, in short racemes, large and showy, usually orange with crimson wings. Flowers in June. Height 4 feet. The variety called ilicifolium nanum, of re- markably dwarf habit, being only 9 inches in height, is the best for a limited collection, though there are two or three other very distinct and beautiful forms. Christmas Rose (««/. ord. Ranuncu- la'ceae). A variety of the hellebore, otherwise known as Helleborus niger. It fc a hardy herbaceous perennial that cheers the flower borders and shrubberies with its pure white flowers in the depth of winter. It is CHRISTMAS ROSB. propagated by division of the roots and also from seed. It thrives in any ordinary garden soil, but prefers a shaded situation. It also blooms well under glass in a cool house, the protection thus afforded serving to preserve the purity of the flowers. Chrysanthemum (nat. ord. Astera'- ceae). Although this plant is among the hardi- est of the hardy, yet flowering as it does, chiefly in late autumn and early winter, its beautiful blooms are subject to injury from the weather when grown out of doors, and soon lose their freshness, and are injured in form and dimmed in colour, under the adverse influences of rain and frost. To exhibit the blooms of chrysanthemums in perfection it is desirable that they should at least have protection over head, if it be nothing more than an awning of water- proofed calico, with ends of the same, if the«pots or border in which they are grow- ing be at the foot of a wall to which the ends and roofing can be attached. The best protection, however, is afforded by a cold greenhouse, a glazed structure without fire CHRYSANTHEMUM. 107 CHRYSANTHEMUM. heat, because such a building admits of free entrance of light, which the semi-opacity of awning will, to a certain extent, prevent. November, indeed, when the chrysanthe- mum is in full bloom, is pre-eminently the month when a conservatory is most needed. When utter desolation reigns without, there is the more need for a good display of llowers within. This is comparatively easy with the aid of chrysanthemums, which alone make a brilliant display. November, as it has been said, is the reigning season of this beautiful flower, which has been brought to us from China and Japan. If and Anemone Pompons. The distinction between each class is easily recognised. The Japanese variety (A) is marked by its irregularity. The flower forms almost a ball, or at all events a semi ball, and its petals are tossed wildly about in every direction in charming disarray, which offers a remarkable contrast to the neat- ness and regularity of arrangement of petals conspicuous in the other varie- ties. Reflexcd chrysanthemums are those whose petals are bent back and turn down- wards towards the flower stalks. In the Incurved varieties (B) the arrangement of TYPES OK CHRYSANTHEMUMS. — A. JAPANESE. B. INCURVED. C. POMPON not so refined as some, it is the most strik- ingly effective of all ; even camellias pale their beauty in their presence. Moreover, its cheapness, readiness of increase, and simplicity of culture, bring it within reach of the poorest, and for these reasons it is, and ought to be, sought after here as eagerly as in Japan, where, like the rose in England, the thistle in Scotland, and the shamrock in Ireland, it is regarded as being the national flower and the national em- blem. Classification, crV. — Speaking broadly, chrysanthemums are classified as Japanese, Reflexed, Incurved, Pompons, Anemones, , the petals is just the reverse, the petals | turning upwards and away from the flower stalk, and curving inwards, so that the flower, in many cases, assumes the form of a ball, composed of imbricated petalSj or petals so disposed as to lap over one another like tiles on a roof. Pompons (c) are varieties that do not attain the height of the tall large-flowering chrysanthemums, and whose blooms are smaller, say about the size of a half-crown, or not larger than a crown piece. When the term Hybrid Pompon is used, it is taken to denote varieties which are not small enough to be ranked among the true Pompons and not CHRYSANTHEMUM. 108 CHRYSANTHEMUM. lar^e enough to be placed among the large- flowering varieties. The true Pompons, it may be said, are suitable and beautiful for front shelves in conservatories, or for beds or borders out of doors. Being of com- pact, close growth, and having flowers about the size of very large daisies, and rivalling the large ones in colour, they are at once the neatest and most ornamental plants for furnishing the conservatory. The Anemone flowered varieties differ from all the others, in having a centre of close petals, almost like a sunflower, but still more like an anenome surrounded by a fringe of edging of large loose petals. The j Anemone Pompons are merely d\,-J varie- ties of the anemones. Further, chrysan- themums of all the varieties named above may be classified according to the time of their flowering, as early -flower ing, bloom- ing from July to October ; semi-early, blooming in September and October in the open ground ; and ordinary or late-flower- ing, blooming in November and December ; but this is merely useful as denoting the time when each individual plant will flower. Culture^ &c. — It will be useful to trace briefly the culture and management of the chrysanthemum throughout the year, be- ginning from the flowering season. Sup- posing that plants are brought under shelter late in October, and allowed to flower in the conservatory, they may be removed to a cold frame or sheltered corner, out of doors, until the end of March or beginning of April. If the latter position is chosen the pots must be plunged to the rims in cinder ashes, and the tops slightly pro- tected with some dry litter. Propagation. — In looking the plants over at the time specified, three obvious modes of increase present themselves. The old stools may be divided, they may be planted out as they are in rich soil with a view to layering, or cuttings may be taken off them, and the plants either planted out in the shrubbery or entirely discarded. If divi- sion is determined upon, pieces, with a single, or two or three stems, may be chosen, and either planted out into rich soil or potted. If the last-named method be decided on, they should be placed into a close frame for a week to start them, and gradually used to light and air until they are placed in a sheltered situation out of doors. Management of Divided Plants.— When they have grown 3 inches, top them, to induce compact growth, if nice plants are your object ; but if you grow blooms for exhibition only, never stop them at all. Concentrate the whole strength of the plant into two or three stems, and the strength of these stems into a single bud at the top, and that bud cannot fail to be a prodigious flower. For conservatory plants, however, two or three stoppings will be necessary, and the flowers, if not so fine, will be ten times more numerous ; and the leaves will, or ought, to touch the rims of the pots. Repotting.— As soon as the first pot is full of roots the plants should be shifted into another, or placed in their blooming pots at once ; no soil is better for them than equal parts well-decomposed cow- dung, loam, and leaf-mould, liberally coloured with bone dust and sharp sand. Neither should there be much drainage, as the roots will speedily occupy the whole mass of earth, and almost prevent the possibility of stagnation. From first to last the plants should never flag, and be constantly fed with rich clear manure water. Training, &>c. — In training, the fewer stakes that are used the better, and towards the end of October the plants should be moved under glass. This is a critical change for them, and unless the leaves are kept well syringed two or three CHRYSANTHEMUM. 109 CINERARIA. times a day for a few weeks, the chances are they will either discolour or fall off. Treatment in Open Ground. — Pompons, or others to bloom in beds or against walls, may receive the same general treatment in training and watering, &c. It is also a common practice with many to plant out their entire stock, and take up and pot what they require in the beginning of October. This plan succeeds well if the leaves do not wither, as the result of the check of potting. Management of Layers. — Where layer- ing is determined upon, the stools are planted out in rich soil, and the branches layered into pots about the beginning of July. Very nice plants with splendid foliage may be procured in this manner. Management of Cuttings. — The favour- te mode of increase by the best cultivators s by cuttings. No plant, unless it be couch grass, strikes so easily as the chry- santhemum. In any soil, at any season, put a growing branch in any place where it does not freeze nor scorch, and it is almost sure to root. Nearly all growers differ as to the best time for striking these plants. Some cultivators recommend November ; some succeed admirably by inserting them in May. Perhaps it is better to make a compromise between the two extremes by striking cuttings in March. These should be well rooted and then potted off in April, and receive their first shift into pots, 4 inches or 4^ inches across the top, the first week in May. They should then be con- tinued in a temperature of 50° for a fort- night ; headed and hardened off, and stood out of doors by the end of May, and re- ceive their final shift a month or six weeks later. By adopting this mode the amateur will not fail to secure good blooms and presentable plants, both essential for con- servatory purposes. Varieties. — No attempt is made to give lists of the different varieties on account jf the enormous number of named plants now in cultivation. Those who desire full infoi mation on this matter should purchase the descriptive catalogue issued by Mr. N. Davis, Lilford Road Nurseries, Camber- well, London, S.E., which may be obtained for sixpence. Mr. Davis is one of the largest and most successful growers in this country, and has for years made the culture of the chrysanthemum his speciality. Cineraria (not. ord. composita). Few plants are so effective for decorative purposes as cinerarias, whose form and habit is shown in the accompanying illus- tration. Unless for exhibition, it is best to grow them annually from seed. Culture and Management. — The first sowing should be made in March, in pans filled with equal parts of peat and loam, and one-sixth part sand. They should be well drained, made firm, and the seed slightly covered and placed on a slight bottom heat. Keep the pans and young plants, when they appear, partially shaded from the bright sun ; put them into 3-inch pots as soon as they will bear handling, return them to the same place, and renew the same treatment until they are thoroughly established in their pots. CINERARIA. no CINERARIA. Then gradually harden them by giving plenty of air, and place them in a sheltered situation out of doors towards the end of May. As the roots reach the sides of the pots shift them into larger, giving them their final shift in September. The ! first flower stems should be cut out close to the bottom when large plants are desired. This will induce them to throw out from six to twelve side-shoots ; these may be re- duced, or all left, at the option of the grower. Towards the end of September, they should be returned to a cold pit, and they will begin to flower in October. No "soil is better for growing them than equal parts rich loam, leaf-mould, and thoroughly rotted sheep or horse-dung, liberally mixed with sharp sand or charcoal dust, and used in a roughish state. They also luxuriate under the stimulating regimen of rich manure-water. Another sowing may be made in April, and a third in May, for very late plants. Treatment of Old Plants.— The treat- ment of old plants may be similar to this. Cut them down as soon as they are done flowering. Shake them out and pot each sucker separately in March ; then proceed as above in every respect. Culture of Plants for Conservatory. — In August plants from seed sown in May should be dwarf and compact specimens. Select healthy plants from those potted off in July, which will now be about 3 inches high and well rooted ; and shift them into 5-inch pots, in a compost of good turfy loam and well -decomposed cow-dung, mixed with a little leaf-mould and silver sand, to keep the soil open ; giving plenty of good drainage, which is essential to the health of these plants. When well-rooted in the new pots, pinch out the leading shoots. When they have made fresh growth, look carefully over them again, and pinch out all weak shoots, and such of the old leaves as interfere with the free cir- culation of light and air round the stems, and place them thinly near to the glass in the front of the greenhouse, cold pit, or frame ; in the latter case, raising the lights on flower-pots to secure free ventilation. When they have made considerable pro- gress a second shift may be given, using the same compost. In February give a final shift, when a stonger compost should be used, adding to the former a little well- decomposed night-soil, or an increased quantity of cow-dung, with a smaller supply of leaf mould. Continue to thin weak shoots and superfluous leaves in order to throw the whole vigour of the growth into the leading shoots. When strong enough stake them and tie them out as wide as possible. By this means the side- shoots will soon fill up the intermediate spaces. Fumigate frequently, to prevent the green fly, which is the pest of this plant. Application of Liquid Manure. — When the pot is pretty well filled with roots, water with liquid manure, which will pre- serve the leaves in a fresh green state, and give additional brilliancy to the flowers. Plants from Seed for Spring. — Seeds sown in the beginning of August and potted off into store pots when large enough, make good plants for spring pur- poses. Potting into store pots prepares them for separate potting ; their after-treat- ment being the same as above. The pro- cess of stopping retards their bloom and strengthens the flowers ; where earlier bloom is required, therefore, a modified treatment is to be adopted. When the flowering season is over remove them to a shaded place, preserving all the leaves, and watering slightly, guarding them from insects until August, when cuttings may be taken from the old roots. When these are separated from the plant the roots may also be separated and potted out ; every particle of the root being capable, under propel CISTUS. in CLARKIA. treatment, of propagating a plant ; these old ones being the best plants for early flowering, they may be divided even up to October. Management in Winter. — In January many plants will be in bloom, and may be removed to the window or conservatory, while those reserved for blooming in May and June should still be kept in cold pits or frames, taking care to guard them from severe frosty weather, arxd especially from moisture. If large cinerarias are required, shift a few into larger pots, and pinch off the tops to produce a bushy head, tying or pegging down the side shoots to keep them open, keeping them supplied moderately with moisture, and giving air on every possible occasion. Good Type of Cineraria.— Mr. Glenny tells us that " to make a truly fine cineraria we must have a white ground, which renders any colours a good contrast, the most striking being crimsons and blues. The edging should be even, forming an even band of colour alike all round, and having a well-defined circle of white sur- rounding a disc of some determinate colour. This disc, then, should be white on the ground, distinctly banded with a dense colour of some kind, the grower the contrast the better ; the disc being small, dark-coloured, or bright yellow ; the petals smooth and velvety — no ribs or pinkers ; the bloom flat and round ; or if they deviate, by cupping rather than reflexing ; the foliage spreading, green, and even ; above which the flowers should fo^rn an even surface of bloom, the flowers setting edge to edge, and perfectly circular ; the ends of the petals free from notch with a distinct edge of colour ; thick at the edge and the flowers opening flat." Cistus, or Rock Rose (nat. ord. Cista'cese). The common name of a family of hardy perennial shrubs bearing a beautiful bloom mostly white, rose, or purple in colour, with I a spot of a different colour, generally purple or yellow, rt the base of each petal. I The flower resembles a large single rose. The variety best known, perhaps, is Cistus ladaniferuS) or the Gum Cistus. It is propagated by layers put down after the shrub has bloomed, or by seeds sown in April, or cuttings placed under a hand- glass in May. The cistus does well on ariy ordinary soil, but it prefers a shady position. Clark'ia (nat. ord. Onagra'cese). Hardy annuals bearing cheerful-looking flowers, growing freely from seed and blooming profusely under almost all cir- cumstances. When planted in sich soil and properly attended to, they rank amongst the most effective of annuals for the border, their large handsome flowers and shrub-like habit rendering them strik- CLARKIA PULCHELL PLANT. B. BLOSSOM. ingly attractive. The new varieties that have been introduced of late years, such as Purple King and Salmon Queen, varieties of Clarkia elegant, which yields double white blooms ; the rose, white and Tom Thumb varieties of C. integripetala, and the pure white and pink and white varieties of C. pulchella, may be regarded as decided acquisitions. CLEMATIS. 112 CLIMBING PLANTS. Clem'atis (»«/• ord. Ranuncula'ceae). The generic name of some beautiful de- ciduous climbing plants which have been brought to the highest perfection by the cul- tivator's skill. The best known but most ordinary type of the clematis is Clematis vitalba, a hedge plant indigenous to Britain, also called Virgin's Bower, and Traveller's Joy, on which the rarer and more delicate hybrid varieties are frequently grafted. They are otherwise propagated by cuttings taken from side-shoots and placed under a handlight in summer, or by division of the roots. Among the best of the hybrid varieties may be named C.Jackmanni with large purple blossoms. C.Jackmanni alba with equally large white flowers. Beauty of Worcester is also remarkable for the size and excellence of its flowers. Gardeners, amateur and professional, are requested to note that the name of this flower is pronounced clem'atis and not cle-ma'-tis as most people generally miscall it. Clian'thllS (not. ord. Legumino'sse). A genus of magnificent free -flowering shrubs, which includes Parrot's Bill and Glory Pea of New Zealand, with elegant foliage and brilliantly coloured and singu- larly shaped flowers, which are produced in splendid clusters. Clianthus carneus and C. puniteus — Parrot's Bill — blossom freely out of doors in summer, against a trellis or south wall ; C. Dampieri — Dampier's or Glory Pea — succeeds best planted in the border of a greenhouse, and is one of the finest plants of recent introduction ; seeds sown early in spring flower the first year ; succeeding best in san/iy peat and loam in a hot position. They may also be raised Cosily by cuttings. They attain a height of abou four feet, and with the exception of C. carneus^ which bears a flesh-coloured blossom, they have brilliant scarlet flowers with a dark blotch at the base of the upper and erect petals. Climbing and Trailing Plants, Culture of. In selecting climbers and trailers, it is better to plant a considerable number of any one plant that thrives well in the locality, than to grow, merely for the sake of variety, those that do not thrive anywhere and everywhere, as experience has fully shown. Healthy growth of plants, after all, constitutes the chief charm in garden- ing, and, provided that this be secured, a place furnished with twenty species may be more interesting and beautiful than another that is planted with a thousand. With reference to the culture of climbers and trailers, the Ampelopis will grow and thrive in any soil and in any situation, and is propagated by layers and cuttings. The Aristolochia does best in sandy loam, and is propagated by division of the roots, or by layers put down in spring and autumn. The Begonia likes moderately rich soil in a warm or sheltered situation, and is pro- pagated by cutting of its roots, or shoots, under a hand-glass in spring or autumn. Light loam, or loam mixed with a little peat, suits the hardy forms of Clematis. They are propagated by cuttings of firm side shoots placed under a handlight in summer, or by layers in September. The varieties due to cultivation and hybridisa- tion are usually multiplied by grafting on the common Clematis (Clematis vitalba}. The Ivies like deep rich soil, but the soil for the tenderer varieties should be fairly light. They may be propagated by layers, or by slips, inserted in a north border in the autumn in sandy soil, which should be kept moist. Good common soil is suffici- ent for the Jasmines, or Jessamines, which are propagated by means of layers, suckers, or cuttings placed under a handlight. The Loniceras or honeysuckles are best propa- CLIMBING PLANTS. 113 CLUBBING IN CABBAGES. gated by layers put down in autumn. They prefer good loamy soil and a shady, sheltered situation. The Passion Flower l;J»es good but somewhat light soil. It requires a little protection by means of matting in severe winters, and may be piopagated during the summer by cuttings of young wood in almost any stage, placed in sand under a handlight. Peat and loam suit the Passion Flower, and the Tecoma also, which is propagated by pieces of the roots, or by cuttings of young shoots. The Vitis, or vine, like a rich, open loam, and is propagated by cuttings and buds of the ripe wood, and by layers. Grafting and inarching are also resorted to for the culti- vated sorts. The Wistaria likes sandy loam and peat, and is propagated by layers of long ripened young shoots. Cuttings of strong roots will also serve the purpose, and young shoots getting firm, set in sandy soil and protected by a handlight. Climbing and Trailing Plants, List of. F'ew gardens can be furnished without some climbing or trailing plants to run up trees, scramble over poles and rustic build- ings, or to cover walls. The plants that are named in the following list will be found to be well adapted to any of these purposes, being perfectly hardy. To these may be added a whole host of Banksian, Boursault, Ayrshire, and other climbing roses ; but there is no necessity for includ- ing them in the present list. Height in Feet. Ampelopsis hederacea Virginian Creeper 301050 „ bipmnata 10 „ 20 ,, Veitchii 15 M 25 Aristolochia sipho 15 lf 30 .. tomentosa I5 M 20 Hignonia capreolata 12 ,, 15 Clematis flammula ... „ florida *.!'.!"!!!"! 10 '/, — „ Jackmanhi !!,..!!.' 15 ,',' ». •« a!b> 15 " — „ lanugmosa g f 10 Clematis orientalis ,, viorna Leather Flower ,, ,, cpccinea ,, virginiana Virginian Clematis „ vitalba Traveller's Joy Hederax helix Common Joy... ,, ,, Canariensis ... Irish Joy „ ,, variegata Jasminum nudiflorum Yellow Jessa- mine Jasminum officinale... Common White Jessamine ... „ „ affine „ pubigerum ,, revolutum Lonicera fiexuosa Japanese Honey-suckle „ „ aurea reticulata „ periclymenum ... Common Honey -suckle ,, sempervirens Trumpet Honey-suckle Passiflora ccerulea Common Pas- sion flower ... Tecoma radicans „ „ major ,, ,, minor Vilis cordifolia '.'...'....'..'.'.'.I „ vinifera Common Vine.'.'.' „ „ apiifolia Wistaria alba „ „ frutescens .. I0 „ Sinensis ... Height in Feet 8 to 10 10 ,, 12 5 ,« IS , ,*> *5 ft— 40 „ — 20 „ — 20 „ — 6,. 16 15 If 20 15 ', 20 10 „ - 10,, - 4f, 5 4 tt 5 10 ,, 15 6 „ 10 30 „ — 30 „ — 30 >t — 20 ,, — 20 „ 30 20 „ 30 15 i, 20 12 „ 20 Of the ivies there are many varieties, distinguished as silver ivies, golden ivies, &c., from the colour of the foliage, which are not named here. In ordering plants of the clematis, ivy, &c., it is desirable to consult the price lists of large growers. Clipping Hedges, road margins, or lines of white contiguous o grass — it is equally striking in juxta- osition to bright red gravel. As a practical ule, the most intense colours should be laced in the centre of beds, and the less ecided tints used for contrasting rings or dgings. Generally, too, the smaller the >eds the more liberally may the intense olours — as scarlet, &c. — be introduced, nd vice versd. A bed containing fifty lants of "Defiance" verbena is a gem of eauty; a large bed of 500 dazzles and ffends by its excessive glare. In nearly 11 cases, such masses require broad margins COLOUR. "7 COLOUR. of complementary or contrasting hues to impart the charm of softness and subdued beauty. The cool colours alieady noticed, and neutrals — that is, mixed hues or plants of no very decided colours — are often used with the happiest effect to soften and tone down the influence of very brilliant tints. Much exception has been taken to the style of furnishing flower-gardens in masses of colour on the ground of the monotony or flatness of surface it induces. But it should be borne in mind that smoothness and evenness of surface is one of the elements of beauty. Besides, to enjoy beauty in masses, the eye must be able to see it at a glance. Nothing must be too high to intercept the line of vision, and break up unity of expression and oneness of effect, compelling us to look at it in detail only. This also constitutes one of the chief charms of Dutch, or sunk gardens. Standing at a considerable elevation above them, the eye sees, and the mind comprehends the whole at a glance ; and if they are well furnished, the result is the highest amount of pleasure with the least effort. However, those who desire more variety in the sky outline of their gardens, can introduce tall trained plants of scarlet geraniums, brugmansias, heliotropes, fuchsias, cassias, &c. ; or tro- pseolums, convolvulus, and other climbers, as centres to their beds. As ribbon borders are still in favour with many, it may be pointed out that the following is something like a natural prism or rainbow : — Dark blue. Pea-green. Buff. Orange. Sapphire-blue. Violet. Salmon. Violet. Green. Black. Black. Scarlet. Green. Pea-green. Dark blue. Dark brown. Scarlet. Scarlet. Dark green. Dark crimson. Mixed. Geranium. Red. Orange. Yellow. Green. Blue. Violet. Dull red. Grey. Mulberry. The following is given as an instance of defective arrangement : — Dark blue. Scarlet. Green. Buff. Violet. Green. Pea-green, Black. Dark green. Scarlet. Blue. Scarlet. Violet. Orange. Cool green. Brown. Salmon. Pea-green. Blue? Black. Here we have black, dark blue and pea- green in succession ; sapphire-blue between two scarlets, pea -green between black and blue — all unpleasant combinations of colour. The dark and light colours are arranged indiscriminately, without any regard to effect. The following arrange- ment of the same colours will be found more agreeable : — In this arrangement, the dark and brilliant colours, such as orange and scarlet, occur at regular intervals, all the inharmonious contrasts of the last diagram are avoided, and the colours are arranged, as nearly as the materials will admit, according to the laws of contrast : light and dark blue are opposed to orange ; scarlet is contrasted with green, and green with violet. In pictorial arrangement, variety of colour is obtained by the inti eduction of different hues of the same colour, and of different degrees of brightness. For ex- ample, although it is proper to repeat certain colours, as red for instance, it is not necessary that all the reds in a picture should be a bright vermilion-colour: on the contrary, the picture will gain in beauty if one should be of a dull earthy red, a third crimson, and so on, through all the scale of colour. Mr. Mclntosh, in his " Book of the Garden," remarks upon this thus : — " This rule will be of assistance to gardeners, as it extends the coloured material at their disposal. The principle of repetition is quite in accordance with the laws of harmonious arrangement." The following is an example, the colours used being scarlet, orange, black, white, blue, green, and some of the semi-neutral COLUMBINE. 118 COMPOSTS. colours. They may be arranged with jxcellent effect, thus :— Dark blua. Black. White. Scarlet. Orange. Scarlet. White. Black. Dark green. Black. Light drab. Crimson. Blue. Black. White. Brown. White. Dark grey. Scarlet, Black. Dark red. White. Claret. Black. Black. Orange. Light drab. Grey. However, such repetitions are seldom practicable or desirable in actual planting. It would require a border ten yards wide to hold such an arrangement ; and if ever so successfully managed, too much of a good thing would be the general verdict. Ribbon-borders, from six to twelve feet wide, and planted with so many distinct and separate colours, are generally the most effective. For the greatest width here stated, perhaps they are most beauti- ful divided by a row of the tallest plants in the middle, and both sides planted alike, or different in colour, but similar in height, gradually falling from the centre to the sides. In a large ribbon rising from front to back, eleven rows deep, bounded on one side by a terrace- walk fourteen feet wide, and on the other by a gravel walk five feet wide, the following was the arrangement : — ist Row. — Lobelia speciosa. 2nd Row. — Cerastiurn tomentosum. 3rd Row. — " Happy Thought'1 geranium. 4th Row. — Purple King verbena. 5th Row. — Calceolaria aurea floribunda. 6th Row. — Scarlet geranium. 7th Row. — Ageratum irexicanum (medium-sized variety). 8th Row. — Cineraria maritima. 9th Row. — Perilla nankinensis. loth Row. — Dwarf yellow dahlia, nth Row. — Dwarf scarlet ditto. i2th Row. — White verbena. Columbine. See Aquilegia. Composts. The successful flower grower should « \ways have at hand — 1. All the leaves which can be got together, except those in the shrubberies, which should be dug in. 2. A heap of clean road-grit. 3. A heap of sand, silver or river. 4. A good stack of turfs cut from some pasture, three inches or less in thickness. 5. A heap of cow-dung. 6. A heap of stable-dung, which is most suitable for the preseut purpose when taken from an old hotbe«l. 7. A stack of turfy peat from a common. 8. All the waste of the garden should also be placed where it may rot, for it is a capital dressing ; because, when once fairly rotted into mould, it is next in value to pure leaf-mould. We hear and read a great deal of all manner of exciting composts, such as guano, night-soil, bullock's blood, offal of the slaughterhouse, sugar-bakers' scum, and various other not very nice material ; but all this resolves itself into the single fact that all animal matter, as well as animal dung, enriches the ground — bone-dust, shavings of horn and hoofs, among the rest. There is an uncertainty about the strength of all these materials which renders them unsuited for delicate and valuable plants, although, for farming oper- ations and coarse-vegetable growing, they are valuable. A collection of florists' flowers cannot be played with, and their existence would be often placed in jeopardy by exciting composts, of which the strength is not easily ascertained ; whereas all those materials which we have recommended are known. Beyond these we may mention rabbit, sheep, and even poultry droppings, which may be obtained for the purpose of using as liquid manure after being thoroughly decomposed ; such liquid manure being made by stirring a pound of rotted poultry dung, or half a peck of rabbit-, sheep-, or cow-dung, in eighteen gallons of water for two or three days, and, when settled, it is fit for use. CONIFERS. 119 CONSERVATORY. Conifers for Pinetum. turn, Conifers for. See Pine- Conifers and Taxads. Conifers and taxads, otherwise cone- bearing trees and yews, have been ex- tensively improved and freely cultivated of late years. They are considered the grandest of ornamental trees : they are evergreen, thriving, for the most part, in common soil, disliking manure, except in a thoroughly decomposed state. They are best raised from seed, but some kinds are not yet obtainable in that way, and are found to do perfectly well grafted, when united to a proper stock. Where there is sufficient space, the pines and firs should enter largely into the composition of scenery ; in more limited grounds the junipers, cypresses, arbor- vitaes, and yews are equally valuable. A few only thrive well in the vicinity of large towns ; but as such are very desirable from their distinct and handsome forms, they should not be overlooked when planting. Chief among the conifers are the pines, firs, cedars, cypresses, junipers, and thujas, or arbor vitie, to the descriptions of which, under the name here given, the reader is refer red. The yews stand pre-eminent among the taxads. Conservatory. This structure may well be termed a winter garden, for such is its most useful purpose : it is really an essentially neces- sary adjunct to a well-ordered country house of any pretentions, affording means of exercise to the ladies and visitors in inclement weather. In houses of smaller dimensions it is the storehouse for display- ing the flowers as they are forced into bloom in the greenhouse or frames, as well as for growing certain climbing and creep- ing plants festooned and trained under its roo! and over its walls, and for other plants only requiring protection from frosts, which occupy its beds and borders. Even in the absence of any heating apparatus, the conservatory, if properly glazed and FIG. I. — LEAN-TO CONSERVATORY. painted, will bring the temperature of the atmosphere to about the degree enjoyed by our neighbours on the banks of the Loire, seven degrees farther south, without the great extremes of summer heat and winter cold to which they are exposed. In these days, therefore, of cheap glass, there is no reason why every house, suburban or country, should not have its glasshouse proportioned to its size. There are some few points which should influence the choice of a site for every kind of plant-structure, the first and most impor- tant being, that it is not overshadowed on the south, east, or west, or exposed to the drip of trees or houses in any direction. A lean-to house, as shown in Fig. i, but which, however, is the very worst form, may have any aspect between south and south-south east; south, inclining a point or two to east, being the best, as it receives the early sun as it gradually rises, without being exposed to its full meridian glare. The span-roofed house would probably be well placed which ranged from north-west to south-south-east also ; it would thus receive all the morning sun on one side, while the other would receive the meridian sun slightly oblique, and all the afternoon sun, varying according to the angle of incidence of the roof. This would also CONSERVATORY. 120 CONVOLVULUS. be the most favourable aspect for a ridge- and -furrow roof, whether it were supported against a back wall or had a rectangular yoof with vertical lights on each side. Conservatories, however, which are ap- pendages to the house, must depend for I'.ieir aspect on the position it occupies, txcept where the principal rooms lie to the l.orlh. No plant-house can possibly pros- per in this aspect, since the house shades it from the south sun ; nevertheless, with these rooms it must be connected, or it fails in its object ; and a passage or corridor connecting it, covered with glass, must lead to some locality, either to east, or west, or south, where a more genial aspect can be obtained for the conservatory. MG. 2. — RIDGE AND FURROW CONSERVATORY. Where a glass corridor becomes necessary, it should be made subservient to the objects of the conservatory by the intro- duction of baskets, trailing plants, vases occupying niches, and other attractions. As regards its architectural style, the conservatory should, at least, be in har- mony with that of the house : if ornaments are permitted, they should be Gothic, Tudor, or Grecian, according as the house is of one character or the other : in this, as in all other matters, congruity is to be studied. A pretty design for a ridge-and-furrow roof conservatory, suitable for a handsome villa residence, is given in Fig. 2. The conservatory, properly speaking, is a house in which the plants occupy beds and borders as in the garden, but on a smaller scale : sometimes the plants are permanent ones, more frequently they stand in pots, plunged into the soil, or in tubs standing on its surface, or in vases occupying pedestals. Much has been written on the arrangements of con- servatories, but the shape and size of these glazed buildings must, of course, always be determined upon by the situ- ation. It must suffice here to observe that the panes of glass should be large, with as little sash-work as possible, and that the best mode of heating is with hot -water pipes. The heating apparatus of the con- servatory may generally be so managed as to warm the hall and staircase, Convallaria. See Lily of the Valley. Convolvulus (not. ord. Convolvu- la'cese). A very large family of climbing and trailing plants, among which are hardy annuals and perennials propagated the former by seeds and the latter by seeds, CONVOLVULUS MAJOR. cuttings, or division of the roots. Any ordinary soil is suitable for the annuals and many of the perennials, but some of the less hardy kinds require a compost of "COPINGS. 121 COPINGS. fine loam, peat, and leaf mould, especially for cuttings. The name is applied some- what indiscriminately to climbers generally with bell-shaped or funnel-shaped flowers, thus the climber and well-known annual, Iponiea purpurea, is usually called Con- volvulus major, and Morning Glory, and Calystegia pubescens with its pink double blooms, and others of like character are frequently spoken of as convolvuluses. A true convolvulus, however, is found in Convolvulus tricolor, the Convolvulus minor of the garden, noticeable for its blue, white, and yellow blooms. Copings for Walls— Copings of Stone, &c. Coping to garden walls has been a "much vexed'' question, and probably many practical men retain their own to the top of the wall. Another coping may be formed of roofing tiles, or even of slates, as shown in Fig. 2, when stones FIG. I.— FLAT STONE COPING ON WALL. system, without paying much attention to theories ; for, in gardening, a common- sense application of the means at hand, and taking everything at the right time, is of more importance than the best-formed theory imperfectly carried out. It seems very well settled, however, that a stone coping, projecting an inch or two over the wall on each side, as in Fig. I, is necessary for the protection of the wall from the effects of rain, and that, to that extent, the coping is useful in retarding the radiation of heat. Such a coping is formed of flat stones, cemented at the edges to prevent any access of moisture KIG. 2.— COl'ING OF TILES. cannot be readily procured. Copings are generally recommended as improving the appearance of the wall, and as being necessary for protecting it from the weather. A coping of slate flags, two inches thick, bevelled off to three-fourths of an inch at the edges on each side, as in Fig. 3, is one of the simplest and most efficient, and is easily obtained in any part of the country where slates are quarried. The projections of the coping greatly enhance the conservative power of the walls. The practice of fitting wire or wood trellis on the face of the wall is con- demned by many practical men as inter- fering with this conservative power, for a KIG. 3.— COPING OF BEVELLED SLATES. space intervenes betwixt the trees and the wall, where the heated air escapes at the small angle of divergence, in consequence of the greater lightness of the air, caused by rarefaction, while the constant flowing COPINGS. 122 COPINGS. of the denser and colder current to supply its place produces a current which destroys the forcing power of the wall. Throating of Copings. — Coping should be always " throated " when made of stone or slate ; with tiles it is neither possible nor necessary to do this. By " throating " is meant a narrow groove or channel cut in the coping as close to the edge as possible on the lower side, to prevent the water from making its way back against the face of the wall. When the inner face, or one face only, of the wall is used for training trees, the coping may be so put on as to slant in the direction of the face against which no trees are nailed. By this means the water is thrown entirely to the side of the wall that is not stocked with trees. When a stone coping is put on in this way, the higher edge of the coping should be throated ; there is no necessity for treating the edge on the lower side in this manner. York paving, six inches thick, Caithness flag, Ackworth paving stone, and various heads of slate of the Pembrokeshire and other Welsh counties, make excellent coping stone. Roman cement has been tried ; asphalt has also been tried successfully. Glass, six inches thick, and bevelled, has been thought the best material for coping, being .perfectly indestructible by the weather; and cast iron has been found to answer. As to shape, the flat coping, with a groove to carry off the water, is considered to be excellent. A very good coping is some- times formed of brick and cement, in the style of Fig. 2. Another form of coping strongly recommended are stones, sloping on each side, laid on flat ones placed horizontally along the top of the wall. Temporary Copings. — Admitting that a coping projecting to the extent of two inches is necessary for the protection of the wall, and beneficial to the tree, the best horticulturists come to the conclusion that temporary copings, extending eighteen inches beyond the wall, as shown in Figs. 4 and 5, with protecting curtains depend- ing from them, are very useful during the spring months ; and Mr. Errington con- FIG. 4.— TEMPORARY COMA'G FLAT. siders that by using them in autumn a fortnight is added to the « summer, and time given for the ripening of the young wood. He recommends a temporary coping, seven or eight inches, in the summer and autumn, and twice that in April and May. Mr. Mclntosh considers wet walls in summer as robbers of heat, and that a wall with good projecting coping, capable of being moved in the heat of the day, is invaluable after sunset. The portable coping at Dalkeith is a boarding nine inches wide, supported on iron brackets secured by bolts and nuts FIG. 5. — TEMPORARY COl'ING INCLINED. passing through the wall. The boards are attached to the brackets by screws. In the coping shown in Fig. 5, the iron brackets are constructed in the form of a triangle instead of in the ordinary way, as in Fig. 4 ; but they are secured to the wall in the same manner. This construe- COPINGS. 123 COPINGS. tion admits of the temporary coping being placed in a slanting position. Protection afforded by copings. — Copings projecting too far are said to deprive the leaves of the vigour they derive from sum- mer rains and heavy dews, although they are useful in spring, when the trees are in blossom, and up to the time when the fruit is set. At this season, even in the drier climate of France, it is found necessary to protect the tender blossoms from the late frosts, hail, snow, and cold rains of spring, which are very fatal to stone fruit ; the walls in France being generally trellised, in order to protect the trees from the intensity of the FIG. 6. — STRAW PROTECTORS FOR FRUIT TREES. heat produced by radiation, as distinguished from our own moist climate, where the practice is reversed. To carry the protect- ing material, an angular frame-work of wood is attached to the trellis, projecting some twenty inches or so from the wall, at an inclination of 50°. When the tree begins to vegetate, toward the second week of February, hurdles of straw attached to rods of wood, 7 feet 4 inches in length by 2 feet broad, as in Fig. 6, are placed on triangular frames, as shown in Fig. 7, so as to shelter the tree at the time when it is in blossom, till it has begun to stone. In these frames the piece B is passed behind the trellis, the piece A takes and supports the protector, c acts as a strut against the wall to sustain the straw hurdle and its support A, and n is a connecting upright to stiffen the FIG. 7. — BRACKET FOR STRAW HURDLE. frame. When the trellis is absent, pro- jecting' rods of wood are attached under the coping, as in Fig. 8, upon which the hurdles are laid in lengths, at a similar r i i T~J i i i / t / i i / i i ) i i • . I ' ' ' 1 1 1 FIG. 8. — RODS OF WOOD TO SUPPORT STRAW PROTECTORS. angle. This shelter, M. Du Breuil declares, is indispensable for stone fruit. Apples and pears are also benefited by the shelter, especially when exposed to a north or west aspect, or in damp localities. This protec- tion, however, according to the same autho- rity, which suffices while the temperature stands at i° or i|° below zero, becomes useless when it descends to 3°, or even 2°, which too frequently sweeps away the hopes of the fruit gardener. The walls should then be protected by means of a rough canvas, such'' as is used by paperhangers to cover walls before papering, which is attached to the projecting hurdles, A, in FIG. 9. — FRENCH SHELTER OF CANVAS FOR FRUIT TREES. Fig. 9, under the coping at B, and at the bottom, c, to posts, D, driven into the COPINGS. 124 CORONILLA. ground at a sufficient distance in front of the wall. The canvas covering permits the light and air and warmth to pass ; the vegetation is uninterrupted, but the protec- tion is sufficient to exclude the strongest spring frosts. Warmth afforded by Coping. — Mr. Gorrie, a well-known and experienced horticul- turist, found that the projecting coping added greatly to the warmth of the walls, the difference being from 4° to 11° ; and it will be readily conceded that this advan- tage is a very important one. At the same time the cost of permanent coping adds greatly to the cost of the wall. Mr. Gorrie proposed to train the Ayrshire rose on a projecting trellis under the coping, so as to give shelter to the fruit trees while in blossom, the rapid spring growth of this rose being favourable for the purpose; while its deciduous habit admits of the full play of the wind in winter. Shelters inform of Copings. — Among the causes of barrenness to which fhe Rev. John Lawrence, one of our oldest and best writers on fruit trees, directs attention are FIG. 10. — LAWRENCE'S METHOD OF PROTECTING FRUIT TREES. — cold seasons, but especially frosts and blasts in the spring. Having recourse to mats, although sometimes successful, has many objections, which put him .to con- sidering some more efficient remedy, and it occurred to him that horizontal shelters presented the one needful remedy. He experimented with thin bits of board or tile, fastened to the wall, and found them to succeed to a marvel, securing fruit wherever they were placed. For this purpose he proposes to lay rows of tiles in the wall at distances regulated by the space between the lateral branches of the tree, and jutting forward from the plane of the wall about an inch and a half, not in continuous rows, but with gaps to receive the branches of the tree. By the help of these shelters, says Mr. Lawrence, " even in the most difficult year, a good quantity of fruit may almost be depended upon from such blossoms as are sheltered by the tiles. The fruit thus sheltered from perpendicular cold and blasts I have experienced to be much larger, better, and finer- tasted, than those of the same tree where exposed. They are also forwarder and earlier ripe than the others." Corn Salad. This ingredient for salad, which is also known as <( lamb's lettuce," may be had all the year round by sowing in February and March for use in summer, and in September for winter use and for early spring. Sow in drills, about 6 inches apart, in light, rich soil, in a warm situa- tion. The leaves should be eaten when they are young and tender. If the plants show any tendency to run to seed, it is better to take them up and pick off such leaves as may still be eatable, unless it be desired to save seed. Coronilla («a/. ord. Legmnino'sse.). Handsome free - flowering half-hardy shrub, with silvery-looking foliage, and pretty yellow flowers dispersed in little tufts like coronets ; easily cultivated from cuttings, growing freely in a mixture of peat and loam, and succeeding well against a south wall with a little winter protection. It is one of the prettiest shrubs that can be found for wall decoration and for use in the conservatory. COTTAGE GARDENS. 125 COTTAGE GARDENS. Cottage and Villa Gardens, Arrangement of. The gardens attached to villa residences in the suburbs of towns and cottages in the country vary in size, shape, position, and aspect : some are square, some — perhaps the greater number — oblong, and others irregular in form, ranging in size from a couple of rods, or about 60 square yards, to a quarter of an acre, or about 1,200 square yards. The mode of laying out any garden must be influenced and ultimately determined by the size, shape, position, and aspect of the piece of ground to be treated. Let us endeavour to lay down some general rules for our guidance in the disposition of small gardens, and then we shall be in a better position to apply them to a special piece of ground that may be taken as the prevailing type of a small villa or cottage garden. Laying Out. — First, then, in laying out a small garden, economy recommends sim- plicity of design, for intricate plans only increase the labour, and do not yield an adequate compensation. Still, there is a limit even to simplicity of design, and this should be carried only so far that it may not interfere with as much diversity as possible, for there is nothing that increases the pleasure to be derived from a small garden, or apparently adds to its extent, than as many objects as possible, promi- nently brought out here and there to attract and rivet attention by turns as each comes under notice in a walk round the garden, whenever it may be taken. Supposing the frontage to be laid out as a flower garden, let the walks present curves rather than sharp angles, let the beds be circular or oval rather than pointed, and let the space for flowers be as open as possible. Nothing is more beautiful than a small green plot of grass on which one or two of the smaller ornamental trees may be planted, such as the silver birch or copper beach, or some sort of conifer, as a pine or cypress, an I araucaria, now easily procurable, or a deodar. These do not create such a litter with their leaves as freer-growing plants, and will not so soon overcrowd the place. Edging and Paths. — Let the edgings of the flower beds, where edging is necessary, be of box, if obtainable — nothing is so handsome ; otherwise thrift, white alyssum, J or some of the ornamental grasses ; or ornamental tiles are both cheap and elegant, and a grass verge from 6 to 9 inches wide, ifkept in order, is always pleasant and attractive to look on. The path should be of gravel, if possible, or of coarse sand — even road sand is capital for kitchen garden walks, so also is burnt clay. In the present day, walks are sometimes made of a concrete of tar and pebbles, rolled and faced with sand, or of asphalte, but these kinds of walks are not desirable, except in such positions where it is desirable to find the path firm and dry even immediately after heavy rain. Drainage. — Let the main parts of the ground be devoted to kitchen crops. If drainage is necessary, ascertain whither the water can be carried. Open a trench along the whole breadth of the plot, either into the intended outlet or into a well sunk in the ground, and into this trench lead the several drains from the higher part of the ground from one end of the garden to the outlet, gradually sloping towards the lower trench. If this be left open and kept clear, it will carry off all superfluous water ; but if some brushwood is laid along the bottom, it may be covered and cropped over. Brick- bats or stones will do, but pipes or tiles are to be preferred. Having done this, see to I the construction of the walks ; if pleasure be the object, do not grudge the space to be given up to them ; but if profit be sought after by keeping as much of the ground as possible for cultivation, let one main walk i pass through the centre, of about five feet COTTAGE GARDENS. COTTAGE GARDENS. wide, or more if it is to be made a drying ground. At the end of this main walk an arbour may be formed of the common white clematis or Traveller's Joy (Clematis vit- alba), of the white jasmine (Jasminum officinale}, or yellow winter - flowering jasmine (Jasminum nudifloruni) : these are suitable for the purpose, being of dense growth and habit, and very cheap. On each side of the arbour flowers or herbs may be grown. On the sunny sides of the house let a vine, apricot, peach, or nectarine be planted, seeing that a proper station is pre- pared for them. If there is a wall having a southern aspect, let it be devoted to some of these also ; if not required for home use, they are saleable. Preparation of Manures. — In the portion of ground devoted to kitchen crops, follow out a system of rotation cropping, and use a little cau tion in the application of manures ; which, if unprepared by time and the action of the weather, or consisting of rank-smell- ing dung, breed no end of insects, which do injury to the crops. In preparing manures— which, however, are essential for maintaining the fertility of the soil — let it be remembered that all animal and vegetable refuse will be useful, when pro- perly mixed. The droppings of cattle, sheep, pigs, and all house-sewage, should be collected and saved, and mixed with rather more than the same quantity of garden soil ; the application of a little quicklime will remove any offensive smell. Let the offal, dung, &c., be laid in layers, about nine inches thick, mixed with similar layers of garden soil and quicklime, remain- ing so till a good heap has accumulated, when it should be turned over and mixed thoroughly before dressing the ground with it. Applied in this way, it is not so likely to breed insects, and is more effi- cacious. House and Flower Garden. — We can now apply what has been said to a small garden attached to a cottage or villa residence, and we will take as our typical garden a rec- tangular piece of ground, measuring about 40 yards one way and 20 the other, this being the form that generally prevails in estates parcelled out in lots as building ground. We will suppose that, as in the plan shown in the accompanying diagram, the length of the garden lies east and west, and the breadth of it north and south. By such a disposition, we are enabled to obtain a good stretch of south wall. In this, as in former plans, A indicates the house, placed at the eastern end of the ground, or, in other words, very nearly in the north-east corner. In this position the house itself acts as a protection to a great part of the garden against north-easterly winds. B is a small court, well out of the way, reached from the back of the house, and appropriated to the dustbin and offices that it is desirable to keep out of sight. A door at D — a trellised door is sufficient- gives access to a path which enters the main path near E, the entrance from the roadway. The court D is masked by creepers and shrubs, disposed along a border, F, whose frontage is devoted to flowers that will grow in the shade. A piece of trellis divides the court C from the garden, which is entered from c by the gate G. A conservatory on the west side of the house is shown at H, and beds before the conservatory and house at K, K, K. Before the house is a broad gravel path, leading in a straight line from the entrance, E, to the main part of the garden. These and all the other paths are so distinct that no letters are required to distinguish them. Immediately in front of the house is a grass plot, L, nearly semicircular, with an orna- mental tree at M. Surrounding this is a broad border, N, planted at the back with shrubs, in front of which are flowers. A dwarf wall may separate the shrubbery from the kitchen garden on the west side, and on COTTAGE GARDENS. 127 COTTAGE GARDENS. this vases for flowers may be placed at intervals. Kitchen Garden. — Thus, a third of the ground is devoted to the house and a small ornamental flower garden, and the remainder is available as a kitchen garden. The border K may be a vine border, if it is intended to grow grapes in the conservatory, n ; the corresponding border, o, may be sloped as a bank, and appropriated to strawberries. Under the south wall, or wall which faces the south, on » which peaches, apricots, nectarines, £c, may be grown, is a broad border, P, useful for early ately disposed of on the spot. Before it is a rockery and narrow border, u. in the centre is a circular bed, v, which may be devoted to a variety of purposes, as, lor example, a rosary on a small scale, or a bed with a sundial, or even a fountain in the centre, or it may be converted into a circular basin for aquatic plants, with a fountain in the middle of it, or piece of statuary, w, x, Y, and z are pieces of ground which may be assigned for such purposes as the owner of the garden may prefer ; for instance, w and x may be planted with currants, goose- berries, raspberries, &c., and vegetables PLAN SHOWING ARRANGEMENT OF GARDEN FOR COTTAGE OK VILLA. vegetables and the more tender crops. In the centre of this border, breaking its con- tinuity, is a space, Q,. which may be utilised as a frame for melons or cucumbers, or as a summer house, according to taste. R is a border before the east wall, on which plums may be grown : this border may be broad, as P, or narrow, as the border, s, in front of the north wall, on which plums and morello cherries may be grown, the border being utilised as a reserve garden in miniature. The corner, T, is set apart for manure and the reception of such rubbish as will accu- mulate in a garden, but cannot be immedi- raised in Y and z. Pyramid apple and pear trees may be placed at the corners of these pieces, and espalier or cordon trees be trained between them. The object in forming this garden plan has been to get as much variety as possible into a limited space. Cottage Gardens, Cultivation and Management of. This subject naturally divides itself into two parts — the preparation of the soil, and the rotation of crops grown thereon. It is I a mistake to suppose that these points, and COTTAGE GARDENS. 128 COTTAGE GARDENS. everything that bears on them, are a matter of course patent to all, and that there is nothing to be said on them. Tkere may, indeed, be nothing very novel to say on either of them ; but there is much in each that is often lost sight of altogether, or but imperfectly understood. Preparation of Soil. — The tools essen- tial to the cottage gardener are the spade and the fork, the former being better cal- culated for working in lighter soils and the latter for heavier soils, because the action of the spade is to bring up masses of earth on its broad flat blade, while the action of the fork is to break up these masses, and to make many small lumps out of what would have been a large lump if lifted by the spade. I am speaking, of course, of soils that have a coherence and consistency, as clay soils, or soils that are apt to cake together under the influence of the sun's rays or abundant moisture. Some soils when lifted by the spade will fall to pieces and crumble nicely, and require little or no beating about to pulverise them, so to speak ; but a large and heavy fork would be inefficient for lifting and turning such soil, because the tines or tangs of the fork would pass through it. Trenching is good for all soils, especially those that it is sought to bring for the first time into a condition suitable for growing garden crops. The reason for resorting to trenching is that by its means the soil is thoroughly broken up, and brought into a state in which a greater portion of its mineral con- stituents can be acted on by the frost, and thus fitted by minute subdivision into atoms, and greater capability of being held in solution, to be taken up by the spongioles, or the rootlets of plants, as plant food. By ridging, or throwing the ground into a succession of ridges and trenches, as in planting leeks or celery, a larger extent of surface is exposed to the action of the frost in winter, and the air and frost is better able to find its way into and through the ridges of earth, which, consisting as they do of lumps of earth more or less broken in themselves and lightly piled together, so to speak, are more readily permeated by the atmosphere, or aerated, enabling the oxygen of the air, and its other constituents, to make fresh combinations, chemically, with the mineral atoms with which it comes in contact. In this lies the philosophy of digging, trench- ing, and ridging ; and it is obvious that this should be done from November to anuary inclusive, when Nature is dor- mant. By this it is not meant to say that ground is not meant to be dug over at any other time of the year. To grow good crops of certain vegetables it is necessary .o turn the ground over at least a month Before they are put in, and thus render it ighter and looser for the reception either of the seed or of growing plants. Manures and Manuring. — In dressing garden-ground, stick to the contents of the muck-heap, and do not rely too much on the efficacy of artificial manures. The muck-heap, composed of turf-parings, charred rubbish and clearings of the gar- den, the contents of the closet deodorised for transit by the addition of a little dried earth, and saturated by the slops of the house, which will consist largely of urine, rich in nitrogen and alkaline salts, will form a compost which puts heart into the land, as bread and beef sustains and puts muscle into a man ; while artificial manures are to the land as stimulants or tonics to the human being, useful for a season, but imparting no lasting and enduring benefit, and incapable of rendering fit to keep up a sustained effort over a considerable period of time. Artificial manures, useful as they may be for the crop that immediately fol- lows on their introduction, are soon ex- hausted, and leave no traces of their in- fluence if not constantly renewed. To do COTTAGE GARDENS. 129 COTTAGE GARDENS. this is simply to throw away a great deal of money that might otherwise remain in the gardener's pocket. He will find the contents of his muck -heap, if properly pre- pared, far cheaper to himself and far more beneficial to the land, for its influence is imparted by degrees and not immediately and at one time, as time is taken in its complete dissolution after its committal to the ground, and in its dissolution it adds to the humus, or vegetable mould, which forms so essential a part of fertile soils, and supplies, or is the means of supplying, all growing plants with the food that is so absolutely necessary to their growth and well-being. This is just the reason why leaf mould enters so largely into the com- position of compost for potting. The compost of the muck-heap should have reached a sufficient stage of decom- position before it is mingled with the soil. To effect this it is desirable that it should be frequently dug over. In the suburbs of large towns, where ground is valu- able and space limited, it often happens that kitchen gardens are severely over- tasked, though a prevailing notion that high tillage and abundant manuring make up for extent of room. This is true to a certain extent ; but it has its limits, for in- stances are not wanting to show that serious and vexatious results are traceable to this cause. The ground gets filled with insects, undecomposed manure is worked into the soil after each crop — it is trenched in, dug in, or laid on the surface as mulch some- times ; all manner of undecomposed rub- bish and garden refuse is trenched 3 or 4 feet deep. The result is obvious ; for where there is decomposition, or putrid fermentation takes place, many agencies are attracted thither to hasten the work ; insects are bred in vast numbers, club and canker become prevalent, and good gar- dening becomes impossible. The remedy for this state of things is either a copious manuring with unslaked lime, burning the soil, or the substitution of new soil, if the surface-parings of a pasture are conveniently obtainable. But prevention is always better than cure. Manure should be thoroughly decomposed or rotted, so that it is not likely to breed insects ; and before it is applied to the ground, it should be well in- corporated with an equal quantity of loamy soil. "Where ground is heavily worked — as, for instance, where a spring crop of lettuces, an autumn crop of potatoes, and a winter crop of greens have been obtained from the same piece of ground — manure alone will not supply the whole of the loss, but the addition of new soil may do so. Another mode of prevention is to adopt a well-defined system of rotation : such mea- sures will keep the ground in good heart ; but this must be considered under its own heading. Cottage Gardens, Rotation of Crops in. The market gardener, or gardener on an extensive scale, will gather much valuable information on the succession, or sequence, and rotation of crops, from the table given under " Rotation of Crops," which see ; but perhaps something more simple is desirable for the cottage gardener and holder oi allotment ground. The following rotation of crops is very easily followed, and has been strongly recommended. It applies to a rood or quarter of an acre, and sup- poses the breadth of the land to be 27 $ yards, and the length 44 yards, which makes just one rood. Of this piece of land make three equal divisions, arid crop as follows : — FIRST DIVISION. Time of Planting. Nature of Crops. First week in March 22 rows of potatoes, i feet between each row ; sets to be i foot apart in planting. Sorts : York Re- g-.nts, Flukes, and 10 COTTAGE GARDENS. 130 COTTAGE GARDENS. Fortyfold, or a por- tion of each. An alley of one foot between this and the next division. SECOND DIVISION. Middle of March 2 rows of Windsor beans. Early in March 4 rows of hollow- crowned parsnips. End of February 4 rows of Altrincham carrots. ,, ,, 6 rows of onions, globe or James's keeping. End of March i row of Windsor beans. Early in May 4 rows of turnips. ,, ,, 2 rows of beetroot. First week in May i row of scarlet runners. With a foot alley between each sort. THIRD DIVISION. Last week in February... 2 rows of ash-leaved kidney potatoes. „ „ ... 3 rows of matchless cab- bage, or York cab- bage. Early in March i row of marrowfat peas. „ ,, 3 rows of ash-leaved kidneys (Cape broc- coli after). Last week in February... 6 rows of ash-leaved kidneys (celery after). it ,, ... i row of early long-pod beans. i, „ ... i row of early peas (celery after). End of March i row of cauliflowers (stone turnips after). Plant as early as possible a rows of lettuce (autumn cabbages after). With a foot alley between each sort. First Division. — Potatoes. Note that winter and spring broccoli, and winter cabbage and spin- ach take this division directly the potatoes are off. Second^ Division.— Root crop. Note that this division is to be trenched for the main crop of pota- toes for the next year directly the roots are off. Third Division. — Mixed or early crop. Note that this division is to be occupied with flying crops, such as turnips and lettuces, &c., in the autumn, and to be sown with the usual root crops next spring. There will be but little, if any, difficulty in following the rotation and sequence of crops as given above. It will be seen at once that the principle lies in dividing the ground into three crops, which arrange- ment provides that in each division two years must elapse before it is again cropped in the same manner. Reduced to a tabular form, .the succession of crops stands 33 follows : — FIRST YEAR. First division Potatoes, &c. Second division Root crop. Third division Mixed or early crop. SECOND YEAR. First division Mixed or early urop. Second division Potatoes, &c. Third division Root crop. THIRD YEAR. First division Root crop. Second division Mixed or early crop. Third division Potatoes, &c. Cottage Gardens, Vegetables suitable for. It will be useful to append here a list, necessarily brief, of vegetables that are suited for the cottage garden. It might be easily extended, but the sorts named will be found sufficient for all practical purposes. PEAS. ONION. Early. Brown Spanish. Carter's Lightning. Carter's First Crop. Deptford. James's Keeping. Laxton's Earliest of All. LEEKS. Long-podded. ' Tom Thumb. <^ McLean's Blue 1 S Musselburgh. London or Broad Peter. Flag. American Won- Q Large Rouen. der. ) SPINACH. Medium. Auvergne. Carter's Hundred- fold. Round, for summer. Prickly, for winter. New Zealand. Laxton's Prolific. McLean's Best of FRENCH BEANS. All. Canadian Wonder. Late. Culverwell's Tele- Newington Wonder. Carter's Longsword. graph. James's Prolific. Laxton's Fillbasket. RUNNER BEANS. Carter's Champion. Painted Lady. BEANS CABBAGE. Early Mazagan. Serville Giant Long- Enfield Market, main pod. Carter's Improved Windsor. Orange Jelly. Purple Top Yellow crop. Early York. East Ham. Rosette Colewort. Dutch. BRUSSELS SFKOUT*. COTTAGE GARDENS. 131 COTTAGE GARDENS. BROCCOLI. Early Cape. Purple Sprouting. Walcheren, or Cauli- flower. SAVOY. Early Dwarf Ulm. Little Pixie. POTATOES. Improved Ash-leaved Kidney. York Regent. Beauty of Hebron. Village Blacksmith. VEGETABLE MARROW. Improved Custard. Large Long White. Large Cream. CUCUMBER. For outdoors. Carter's Best of All. Stockwood. KALE. Green Curled Scotch. Welsh Kale. Chou de Russie. PARSNIPS. Students. Hollow-crowned. CARROT. Early Horn. Intermediate. James's Scarlet. Long Red Surrey. Scarlet Altrincham. TURNIP. Early Dutch. Hardy White Dutch. RADISHES. Scarlet Short-top. Turnip, red and white. CELERY. Coles' CrystalWhite. Coles' Defiance Red. Green Curled, winter. White Curled. PARSLKY. Per- LETTUCE. H:!T"smith' for SSSftSJ Black-seeded Brown | Petual- Cos, all the year. *i c Tom Thumb Cab- CORN SALAD' bage. I For winter use. Cottage Gardens, Fruit Cul- ture in. Of this it is not possible to write at length. Careful planting in November, with secure staking, protection from biting winds from the north and east — especially in early spring, when the trees are in bloom — sedulous watering of trees recently planted or giving promise of a heavy crop of fruit, judicious pruning above ground and below also, when the growth is too luxurious, and the tree makes too much wood, and is shy of bearing, so as to in- duce the making of fibrous roots, are the cardinal points of the whole duty of cot- tage gardeners. In small gardens the fruit trees will naturally be isolated, and stand here and there, and it is desirable that trees of the pyramid form, or to be worked as espaliers, should be planted, because large standard trees overshadow the ground too much, and cast a shade that does no good to vegetables below and near them. Bush fruit and strawberries are most worth the attention of the small grower ; but where the ground is of sufficient extent, a portion may be devoted to the growth of pyramid trees, which may be planted nearly as closely, and will take up little more room than good-sized gooseberry bushes. The following affords a list of trees, bush fruit and ground fruit, best suited to the requirements of the cottage gardener. Apricots, peaches, and necta- rines are included ; but he will not grow these unless he places them against a sunny wall of his dwelling, or garden wall, with southern aspect, if he has it. APPLES (DESSERT). Early. Red Juneating. Devonshire Quarren- den. Kerry Pippin. Worcester Pear. main. Red Astrachan. Stubbard. Late. Cox's Orange Pippin. Golden Knob. Court Pendu Plat. Gascoyne's Scarlet Seedling. Blenheim Orange. Ribston Pippin. King of Pippins. Scarlet Nonpareil. APPLES (COOKING). Early. Cellini Pippin. Lord Suffield. Old Hawthornden. LoddingtonSeedling. Grenadier. Lot*. Blenheim Orange. Winter Queening. Wellington or Dume- low's. Northern Greening. Norfolk Beaufin. PEARS. Early. Doyenne d'Ete. Lammas. Jargonelle. Latt. Buerre Diel. Duchess of Orleans. Marie Louise. Williams's Bon- Chretien. Louise Bonne of Jer- sey. Beurre de Capiau- mont. Bishop's Thumb. Aston Town, or Cre- san. PLUMS. Victoria. Early Orleanr Greengage. Rivers's Early lific. Greengage. Magnum Bonum. Prince of Wales. Jefferson, Cox's Emperor, Coe's Golden Drop. Farleigh's Prolific Damson. Kentish Cluster. VINES. Outdoors. Royal Muscadint Pro- COTTAGE GARDENS. 132 COTTAGE GARDENS. White Sweetwater. Black Cluster. Greengage. Champagne. Warrington. With partial protec- Lancashire Lad. tion. Yellow Rough. Foster's Seedling, white. Rifleman. Whinham's Indus- Black Hamburgh. try. CHERRIES. CURRANTS. Early. Black. May Duke. Frogmore Biggareau . Elton Heart. Lee's Prolific. Black Naples. Prince of Wales. Early Heart. Early Black Heart. Whitt. Black Heart. White Dutch. Transparent White. Medium, Kentish Biggareau. Red. Kentish. Knight's Early Red. Champagne. Late. Red Dutch. Morello, for Cherry Queen Victoria. Brandy. RASPBERRIES. APRICOTS. Carter's Prolific. Moor Park. Breda. Large Early. Fastolf. Red Antwerp. White Antwerp. Northumberland PEACHES. Fillbasket. Early York. Grosse. Lord Beaconsfield. Baumforth's Seed- I«M«V Mignonne. ling. Noblesse. Royal George. NECTARINES. STRAWBERRIES. Garibaldi, or V. Heri- cart de Theury. Pitmaston Orange. Violette Hative. Victoria. Black Prince. Keen's Seedling. Laxton's Noble. GOOSEBERRIES. Dr. Hogg. President. Large White Smith. James Veitch. Early Sulphur. Sir Charles Napier. Cottage Gardens, Seasonable Crops and Herbs for. Here may well be made a few brief remarks on the crops that are most useful in the cottage garden. A corner should be found in every garden, and even in the allotment ground, for herbs, especially chives, an excellent substitute for onions in broth, salads, and savoury omelettes, parsley, thyme, sage, marjoram, knotted marjoram, lemon thyme, &c., whose use, unfortunately, is not so well known as it might be. Dill, fennel, horehound, and Other herbs, may be sown in April or May. With reference to vegetables generally, the particulars relative to their culture,are the same, whether applied to the large garden, the allotment, or the small plot of the cottager; but the cottager or allotment holder naturally desires to grow the most useful and profitable crops, and has neither time nor room for experimenting upon ths various subjects placed before him ; con- sequently he may save a great deal by becoming acquainted with what will best repay his time and labour. Perhaps the potato is more largely cultivated than any other crop among cottagers and allotment holders, because it is of more easy cul- ture, and, where it does well, is more remunerative than others ; but the potato disease, for which no certain remedy is known, renders it a precarious crop. Par- snips are not likely to supersede it, because not so generally liked ; but those who are fond of this root will find it a profitable crop. Jerusalem artichokes yield abun- dantly, and will be found remunerative to those who like them. Cabbages are very profitable things to grow ; they head during the summer and autumn, and yield an abundance of sprouts during the winter, at which time they are excellent and nutritious food. Cottagers' kale is an excellent vegetable : after the head or top is cut for use, it yields an abundance of sweet and wholesome sprouts during the winter and spring months. Brussels sprouts may be grown for the same reasons. Broc- coli, of such sorts as the Early Cape and Walcheren, which head the same year as sown, may be grown advantageously ; but late sorts, which occupy the ground nearly a twelvemonth before they are fit for use, are not so profitable. Scarlet-runner beans are always remunerative ; they yield, in abundance, a sweet and nutritious vege- table, and continue bearing a long time ; no cottage garden should be without them. French beans are also profitable for cgt- COTTAGE GARDENS. 133 COW-DUNG. tagers, and also broad beans for summer use. Where peas are grown, the dwarf and medium ought to be chosen, as the taller sorts require tall sticks, and are therefore more costly, and tend greatly to shade the ground on which they are grown. Ctiltural Notes. — When early crops have been growing up to June, and are no longer serviceable, they should be removed without loss of time ; the ground dug or trenched, or forked over, preparatory to getting in crops for the winter and spring following. It will be useful here to point out such crops as would be most profitable in a small way. One of the cheapest means of cropping at this time is to sow the ground with turnip seed : a quarter of a pound of seed (about 9d.) would sow half a dozen rods. If sown on newly dug ground, it would be up in three days, and would yield many dishes of a wholesome vegetable in winter ; leaving many plants to yield useful greens in March and April following. Other useful vegetables are borecole and Brussels sprouts : of the former the green- curled is much esteemed. There are others of equal merit; all are very hardy and prolific, and furnish sprouts for the table from November to May. If they have not already been planted, it should be done as early as possible this month. Winter spinach is also useful, and, as the seed is cheap, it may be advantageously grown by the cottager. Cole worts, again, are very profitable ; they may be planted thickly, and give a good supply of greens for several months in succession. Where potatoes have been planted to any extent, such crops may be planted between the rows before the potatoes are lifted. November the gardener must be content to turn his attention mainly to the prepara- tion of the soil for the ensuing year. Cottager's Kale. Set Borecole. Couve Tronchuda. The culture and treatment of this variety of cabbage are the same as for the ordinary cabbage, the seed being sown in March or April, according to situation, and the young plants planted out in June and July. It is fit for use, COUVE TRONCHUDA. like Savoys, after frosty weather sets in. From the similarity of the leaf stalks to seakale, for which it is a good substitute, it is sometimes called the Seakale Cabbage. The heart may be eaten as well as the leaf stalks, being tender when dressed, and of delicious flavour. Cow-dung. Charred cow-dung is an excellent manure for almost all purposes, and by charring it, it is fit for immediate use. Take some old wood and build a cone two or three feet high ; then procure some green cow-dung, and cover the cone nine inches thick ; let it drain for a day or two ; cover it with weeds or rubbish, and set fire to the wood, regulating the draught so as to prevent the fire burning too fiercely ; and by the time the wood is consumed, you will have a fine crust of charred cow-dung. This mix, when broken up, with composts. A few pieces of it at the bottom of the pots in which calceolarias, pelargoniums, cinerarias, or pines or vines are grown, will be found a most excellent manure- CROCUS. 134 CROPS. Cress, Mustard, &c. These accompaniments to lettuce, &c., in forming a salad, or " saladings," as they are sometimes called, may be obtained by sowing in the open ground in March and April on a sunny spot, and from April to October in a somewhat moist and sheltered situation. The seed should be sown thickly in shallow drills, and a sowing be made every fortnight for succession. The seed leaves only are eaten, because the leaves that show themselves next in order are rough and strong in flavour. For winter use, from October to March, seeds may be sown in boxes filled with light, rich mould, and placed in a greenhouse or window. Crocus. The chief self sorts of the crocus are white, yellow, blue, and purple ; the striped sorts exhibit these colours in every variety of distribution. Size, consistence, shape, and distinctness of colour in the bloom, constitute the chief points in a good crocus. Nothing can be more easy than their cul- W.OWERS OF CROCUS. ture. They are increased by offsets and seed, the former being the usual mode, as they increase rapidly. Offsets are treated the same as old bulbs, and will bloom the second year. Seed should be sown thinly, in well-drained pans of light sandy loam, «s soon as ripe, and placed in a sheltered situation out of doors until late in the autumn. During heavy autumn rains and the cold of winter, they should receive the protection of a cold frame. If sown thin enough, they may remain in the same pans during the first summer. When their foliage dies down in the autumn, they should be shaken out of the soil, and carefully planted in beds of mellow loam in the reserve garden, placing the bulbs about 2 [inches apart and 3 deep. Here they will form strong bulbs during the third summer, and a few of them may flower, the most of them, however, defer- ring to do so until the fourth spring. Cro- cuses are very accommodating in reference to the depth at which they are planted j from 4 to 6 inches is perhaps the best average. When they are planted in beds devoted to bedding-plants, they will reach the surface and flower, if inserted four times that depth. As the young bulbs are formed on the top of of the old ones, they thus possess a self-elevating power. Cro- cuses will flower freely for many years without being disturbed. The best growers, however, recommend dividing and replant- ing every third or fifth year. To secure perfect blooms, the foliage must be left to die down of its own accord. Crops, Rotation Of. See Cottage Gardens, Rotation of Crops in, and Sequence of Crops. Crops, Disposition of. To know how a garden, or a piece of ground devoted to gardening purposes, may be apportioned and suitably cropped is of the utmost importance. The quantity of ground under consideration here is an acre, but smaller plots of ground may be treated in like manner, due regard being had to the proportions of the different parts into which they are divided. Suppose the accompanying diagram to represent an acre of ground, the length to run east and west, which gives the advan- CROPS. 135 CUCUMBERS. tage of a good peach wall at a. The line beyond which it is not advisable to crop is shown by /'. A border 1 2 feet wide, which may be devoted to early crops, or espaliers, pillar, or bush fruits, is denoted by c. The same may be said of the borders f and g. The east and west walls may be devoted to trained plums, cherries, and pears ; i is supposed to be a low wall, fence, or hedge ; k, a border, where late fruits or salading 6 3 DISPOSITION OF CROPS IN KITCHEN GARDEN. may be grown during the summer-time, when a little shade is an advantage to them ; d is the main walk, 6 feet wide, running round the quarters ; e, cross- walks, 4 feet wide between them. The main body of the kitchen garden is divided into eight squares, two of which are devoted to each group of plants, namely, Deepeners, Exhausters, Surface Crops, and Preparers. Let 6 be planted with (i) asparagus, (2) globe artichokes, (3) seakale, and (4) rhu- barb. Of course, the space for each will be determined by the requirements of the family ; but the proportions indicated may serve as a guide. Let 5 be planted with bush fruits, as currants— including red, white, and black — gooseberries, and rasp- berries, and, it may be, root-pruned trees. Horseradish may be planted between these. To keep all these in proper con- dition, a few of each should be removed every year ; the asparagus, seakale, and rhubarb for forcing ; the artichokes can be separated for propagation; and the rasp- berries divided and replanted. The parts numbered 7 and 8 are supposed to be planted with preparers^ which comprise beet, celery, carrots, turnips, leeks, onions, peas, scorzoneras, salsafy, beans, cardoons, Jerusalem artichokes, potatoes, parsnips, scarlet runners ; these are some of the principal kitchen crops, and comprise about one-fourth. Then, again, let I and 2 be devoted to stirface crops^ which, for the sake of equalising them with the other groups, will comprise numerous light crops, as salads, sweet herbs, and similar crops } the exhausters, comprising another fourth of the whole — broccoli, cabbage, Savoys, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, kale, or bore- cole. These will occupy 3 and 4. As these two squares become vacated, the deepeners may fill the space left by them, until, in course of time, 3 and 4 become filled with the latter. The exhausters will have taken the place of the surface crops on I and 2 ; the latter will be transferred to 7 and 8, previously occupied with pre- parers, which have followed the deepeners on 5 and 6 ; and thus a perpetual rotation may be maintained, which will improve the ground instead of impoverishing it. Cucumbers: their Culture. These can be grown under glass, or on a hotbed, at any season of the year, all that is necessary being to maintain the CUCUMBERS. 136 CUCUMBERS. temperature of the house or frame, as the case may be, at a height ranging from 70° *° 75°> but not falling below the former. It is unnecessary to describe the process of making a hotbed here, and for this the reader must be referred to remarks on this subject (see Hotbed). The seed must be planted in good mould placed in pots, and these pots must be placed in the frame when the rank steam and heat of the bed consequent on its first construction has passed off, and it is in a proper condition CUCUMBER— ROLLISON'S IMPROVED TELEGRAPH. for their reception. The seeds may be placed in pots singly, or two or three in a 5-inch pot. Perhaps the former mode is preferable, as the roots are not disturbed when the plants are turned out of the pots to be placed in the soil that forms the surface of the bed. They gr6w very quickly, and will make their appearance above ground in two or three days. Management of Plants in Frames, &>c. —When the plants have made two leaves, pinch out (.he point above the second : each plant will then send out two lateral shoots above the second leaf of each shoot : pick off the top. After that, stop rfiem above every fruit, and, as the plants grow, add fresh soil, till the whole bed is level, taking care that the soil is of the same temperature as the bed before placing it in the frame, or the plants are likely to receive a chill, which throws them back considerably. Setting Fruit. — It will be necessary, between the months of October and April, to set each fruit as the flower opens. This is done by taking a male flower, and pull- ing off all -but the centre — that is, the stamens supporting the anthers, which hold the farina or pollen — and applying this to the centre of the female flower, which may be distinguished by the rudi- ment of the fruit supporting it. This, in the warmer months, is the office of bees. Attracted to the flowers by the honey and pollen, they fertilise the female blossom in collecting it ; but when there are no bees about, the cultivator must perform the task himself. Cucumbers, Ridge, Gherkins, &c. — The instructions given above are, as it will be understood, wholly intended for the culture of cucumbers in frames. There are varieties, however, that can be grown in the open air, but the fruit is smaller, and far less wholesome, than that obtained from fruit under glass. The plants are raised from seed placed in pots at the end of March or the beginning of April. The pots are plunged in gentle heat on a hotbed, covered by a frame, and when the plants are up, as much air must be given to them as possible, and they must be stopped at least twice, in order to keep the growth within bounds as much as possible. About the middle of June, they may be transferred from the frame to the open ground on spots prepared for them by digging holes in the earth about CUPHEA. 137 CURRANTS. 1 8 inches or 2 feet in diameter, and about 1 8 inches below the surface of the soil. The earth taken out should be disposed in a hillock over the manure, the top of the hillock being about 9 inches above the ground level, and therefore above the manure also. The ground should be pre- pared four or five days before the plants are put out. Cucumbers in Pits. — Cucumbers and melons, it is known, are sometimes grown in pits heated with hot water ; the superiority of this plan is so fully established, that none would be troubled with ordinary hotbeds formed of manure after having tried it. The diminution of labour, the cleanliness and comfort, and last, but not least, the ornamental appearance of the suspended fruit, are decidedly preferable to the many inconveniences attached to the manage- ment of hotbeds. Cu'phea (nat. ord. Lythra'cea). Profuse-blooming plants, equally valuable for the ornamentation of the conservatory, drawing-room, and flower-garden, propa- gated by seeds, and by cuttings taken in CUPHEA IGNEA. the spring and placed in rich soil and in bottom heat. Ctipkea ignea is of a grace- ful branching habit, covered with splendid scarlet, black and white tubular flowers ; C. Zinampinii is covered with red-violet, and C. ocimoidfs or ccquipetala, with rich purple - violet flowers. The perennial species, if sown early, can be used for bedding-plants the first year ; the annual kinds may be treated like ordinary half- hardy annuals. Currants, Culture of. Currants, red and white, require, on the whole, a very similar treatment to that necessary for the gooseberry (see Goo*e- )erryy Culture of the). In managing the cuttings, proceed as directed for goose- ' berries. Plant out the second year, when :he cuttings have about eight inches of stem and about five leading shoots. Pruning and Training. — In pruning both red and white currants, work on exactly the same lines as those prescribed for gooseberries. When the requisite number of branches has been produced, so as to form a uniform bush, the greater part of the young shoots should be taken off annually, leaving only those that may be required for new branches, and shortening these to four or six inches with a clean cut just close to a bud. In pruning off the superfluous lateral shoots, take hold of each branch at its extremity with the left hand, and, with the knife in the right hand, remove every fresh lateral up the stem, leaving to each a short spur of a quarter or half an inch in length ; from these spurs the bunches of fruit are produced. As the bush increases in age, it will be necessary to remove all old mossy wood, and also to thin out the spurs when they have become too crowded. Of late years, great improvement has been made in both red and white currants. Visitors to Covent Garden market fre- quently express surprise as to the size of the bunches and the berries. These cur- rants are not only peculiar sorts, but very great pains are taken in the cultivation of them. To grow fine currants, make the CURRANTS. 138 CURRANT MOTH. plantation in an open sunny position on a stiff, well-manured loam ; plant the bushes five feet apart each way, and every autumn trench in a good dressing of half-rotten manure in such a way as not to injure the roots of the trees. At autumn-pruning all the young shoots must be cut in to two inches. Currants with White Fruit. — The sorts which produce the largest fruit are White Blanche, with amber-coloured berries, and White Dutch, the best white currant that is grown. In addition to these may be named Wilmot's Large White, which is a distinct variety and yields well, but has not such a hold on the growers, and is there- fore not in such repute as White Dutch. Currants with Red Fruit. — Of red cur- rants, Cherry is the largest ; La Fertile and Knight's Large Red are also excellent varieties. There are, beyond these, Hough- ton's Seedling or Houghton's Castle, a large variety with dark -red berries of a highly acidulous flavour ; La Hative, an early variety with large and delicious berries ; Mammoth, with very large fruit, as its name implies, of excellent flavour; Raby Castle, a late variety with highly acid fruit, as all late varieties seem to be ; Red Champagne with berries rather pink than red ; Red Dutch, early and highly pro- ductive, with well flavoured juicy berries j and Warner's Grape, also a desirable variety, yielding long and large clusters of berries, rich in juice and flavour. Currants with Black Fruit.— The cul- tivation of the black currant is almost the same as the gooseberry (see Gooseberry, Culture of the], and the pruning is the same, only not so severe, as the black currant does not form so many young shoots. All dead and unproductive wood should be removed each year, and the shoots thinned so that light and air may freely enter the bush. Black currants are besi left to grow as bushes ; they do not thrive well trained to walls, or as espaliers. The best varieties are the Naples BlacV and Ogden's Black ; both of which, under good culture, are profuse bearers, and very large. Lee's Prolific is a variety of com paratively recent introduction, with large bunches of sweet and well - flavoured berries of considerable size. Sweet Fruited is a fourth variety, whose fruit will hang on the bushes for a consider- able time if netted. The latest and best, perhaps, is Carter's Black Champion, the finest and best cropping black currant in cultivation, possessing the great merit of the fruit hanging on the tree until shrivelled. The bunches are long, and the berries very large, tender, and richly flavoured. Moth (Abrax'as Grossula- toria) This moth often mistaken for a outter- fly, is also known as the Gooseberry Moth and Magpie Moth. It is white patched and spotted with black, with a yellow band on the fore-wings running between the black spots, and a yellowish patch at the base. The grub or caterpillar is white and orange, with black bands at the joints. The chrysalis is black, with orange rings round the segments of the body. The moth is chiefly injurious to gooseberry and currant trees, and also infests the almond, peach, and sloe. It appears in the summer, and deposits its eggs on the leaves of the bushes mentioned. The caterpillar appears in September, and continues in this state throughout the winter. It enters the chry- salis state from the middle of May to the end of June, and the moth emerges there- from from about the middle of June on- wards. The caterpillar is best destroyed by handpicking in September, or by dust- ing the bushes with tobacco powder, or white hellebore in the form of powder, or even with soul and aii- slaked lime well CUTTINGS. 139 CUTTINGS. mixed. These should be applied when the leaves are damp. All fallen leaves should be raked together and burnt. It is a good plan to dress the ground on which the plants grow, both in spring and autumn, with a mixture of soot and lime. Cuttings. Natural Shoots. — Cuttings in general may be considered as of two kinds — matured wood and young green shoots. The former, whatever they may be, strike readily, and, comparatively speaking, with very little care. An American plan, which is very successful, is to lay them in slightly damped moss, or to drop them lightly into a wide-mouthed bottle, having a piece of damp sponge at the bottom and a covering of muslin over the top. In either of these methods a callus is soon formed, and the cuttings readily throw out roots. Immature Shoots. — Cuttings of young green shoots, however, require a very differ- ent treatment : they must be so managed as never to be allowed to flag, and the following appears to be the best method that can be pursued. Put silver-sand about an inch deep into shallow pans (common saucers answer every purpose), and in these plant the cuttings. Then pour carefully upon the sand enough water to make a thin sheet about it. The lower leaves of the cuttings are to be removed before plant- ing, and the stalk fixed firmly into the sand before the water is poured on. These tender young green shoots, or cuttings, will be better for a little shade and heat. A piece of thin muslin or tissue-paper will provide the former, and heat may be had by placing the pan of cuttings over a basin of hot water, refilled twice a day. These cuttings will be rooted and ready for pot ting off before the water in which they are grown has dried up. When and how to take Cuttings. — Cuttings of all sorts of geraniums for bed- ding the following year should be struck early : from the last week in July to the end of the first week in August is a very good time. They should be taken in dry weather, when the parent plant has had no water for some days, and they should be kept to dry twenty-four hours after they have been prepared for potting. Hastening Formation of Callus. — The more succulent sorts, and any that appear difficult to strike, may with advantage be touched at the end with a small paint-brush dipped in collodion, which will serve to hasten the callus which the cutting must form before it will throw out roots. Potting. — They may be potted four or six in a pot, according to sizes. It is essential that the pots be well fitted with drainers, that the soil be light and sandy, and that it be pressed tight round the joint of the cuttings, which should be buried in it as fleet as possible. When filled, the pots may be sunk in the ground on a south border, and well watered in the evening, when the sun is off. They will require no shading, except the sun be very scorching ; and, in this case, they must not be kept from the light, but merely screened from the scorching rays of the sun. They may flag a little ; but this is of no importance ; in two or three days they will recover, and put forth roots. If they grow too freely before it is time to take them in for the winter, the top shoots should be broken off, and in this way they will make strong bushy plants. Protection in Winter. — To preserve cuttings from frost where there is no green- house, dig a pit about 4 feet deep, strew the bottom well with ashes, and sink the pots in the same. Over it place a common garden-frame, bank up the outsides with straw and a coating of earth. In such a pit, verbenas, calceolarias, fuschias, &c., &c., may be preserved during the severest winters, provided the pots be kept in the CUTTINGS. 140 CUTTINGS. dark by being well covered with matting during frost. Cuttings, Best Medium for Striking. Silver sand is perhaps the best medium in which to strike small cuttings. A light free soil, through which the air can pass freely, is essential to the well-being of all cuttings. That aeration is necessary is proved by the fact that cuttings will strike readily in cocoanut fibre, a material which is extremely pervious to air, and retains moisture for a considerable period. Pow- dered charcoal also forms a good medium. Perhaps the free access of air through the drainage is the reason why cuttings root more freely when placed close to the side of the pot. Cuttings, Management of. Cuttings of hard wooded plants, such as the heath, myrtle, &c., are more difficult to strike tharr those of soft wooded plants, such as the geranium, &c. Free-growing hardy plants, such as the gooseberry and willow, strike freely without care or atten- tion after inserting the cuttings in the soil. The side shoots of plants, low down in the stem, are the best for cuttings, and should be taken when the sap is in full motion, because its return by the bark tends to form the callus, or ring, of granular matter between the wood and the bark from which the roots proceed. Cuttings should be taken of wood which has ripened, or which is beginning to ripen, because in wood which is attaining or has attained matura- tion, the callus so necessary to root forma- tion is more readily induced to show itself. Never cut off the leaves of a cutting except so far as may be necessary at its base in order to insert it in the soil. Formerly it was the fashion to top the cuttings, or pipings, as they are technically called, of pinks and carnations in a manner similar to that of docking a horse's tail, but this un- reasonable mutilation both of leaves or tail has now gone out of date. The leaves are the lungs of plants, and if they be cut the sap that they contain will be lost to the cutting, and prevented from passing down- wards to form the callus. Cuttings of plants that are difficult to strike may fre- quently be induced to do so by making a ring round them, or tying a piece of string round them for a short time before they are taken from the parent plant. The down- ward flow of the sap is arrested by the cut- ring or tightened ligature, and a swelling is caused, which forms a callus, from which roots are soon emitted. The cutting must be severed from the parent plant just below the ring or band, and the callus must be covered with soil. Cuttings strike more readily when placed at the side of a pot, touching the pot, than when placed in its centre and surrounded with soil. Some kinds of cuttings will strike more freely when the lower end is placed in contact with gravel or crock drainage placed at the bottom of the pot. Cuttings of the mulberry and orange may thus be struck with comparative ease. It has been said that the great art in striking cuttings of the orange is to place them to touch the bottom of the pot ; they are then to be plunged in a bed or hotbed, and to be kept moist. Different kinds of cuttings require different management, and no " hard and fast" rule can be laid down for all. No cutting should be set too deeply, but, as in the case of seeds, the depth will depend mainly on the size of the cutting. No leaves should be permitted to touch the soil ; if they do they will damp off, or, in other words, perish by rotting and fall off. Plants with hollow stems, as the honey- suckle, should have both ends of the cutting inserted in the soil ; if both ends root, the plant can be easily divided, and will then form two. Loudon tells us that CYCLAMEN. 141 CYPRESSES. too much light, air, water, heat, or cold are alike injurious to cuttings. An equable temperature should be maintained, and a moderate degree of moisture, and this is best attained by covering them with a bell glass, and shading them, if not placed in a shady situation, which is the best possible for them. Myrtle and camellia cuttings require but little heat ; those of the heath, dahlia, and pelargonium require more. Cyclamen, or Sow-bread (nat. ord. Primula' cese). A genus of charming winter and spring blooming bulbous, beautiful, graceful roots, with very pretty foliage, and flowers so easily cultivated withal, that any one may enjoy the culture of these plants, either in the sitting-room window, conservatory, or greenhouse, from October to May, by a little management in the period of starting them into growth. Culture. — Plant one bulb in a 5-inch or 6-inch pot, using a rich soil composed of loam and leaf-mould, rotted dung, and a little silver-sand, and, to secure good drainage, place at the bottom of the pot an oyster-shell or hollow potsherd, and over that some pieces of charcoal : the bulb should not be covered more than half its depth. When the blooming season is over and the bulbs are at rest, plunge the pots in- a shady well-drained border, and there let them remain till the leaves begin to grow, when they should be taken up, turned out of the pots, and as much soil removed as can be done without injury to the roots, and replaced with the compost already mentioned. The cyclamen may be propagated by seed sown thinly in a compost of loam, peat, and sand. The seed should be sown in pans and thinly covered with earth, and then placed in a cold frame or on a green- house shelf near the light. Cypresses. Of the cypresses, Cufresstts, there are many varieties. Conspicuous among them are Cupressus Laivsoniana argentea and C. L. aurtovariegata, the silver and gold cypresses, varieties of C. Lawsoni- ana, a native of North California, also known as Chamacy 'farts Lawsoniana. The foliage of these trees clothes the trunk to the very bottom. All the cypresses require a dry soil and situation ; if these conditions cannot be obtained, their places would be better occupied by junipers. CYPRESS TREK. ,-^S^r- — AFFODIL, or NAR- CISSUS. The outdoor culture of these will be found in the general instructions for the treatment of bulbs in the open ground (see Bulbs, Culture of}. For indoor or pot culture, it maybe said that some varieties of the narcissus rank only second to the hyacinth for decorative pur- poses, and totally eclipse it in richness of perfume. They require similar culture to the hyacinth (see Hyacinth;. Culture of), and will flower in water, sand, moss, &c., but do best in soil. The Double Roman is the earliest, and may easily be had in flower at Christmas if potted in September. The Wh«ii a daffodil I see Hanging down his head t'wards me, Guess I may what I misst be : rst, I shall decline my head ; Secondly, I shall be dead ; Lastly, safely buried." IIHRRICK. varieties of the daffodil are very numerous, POET'S NARCISSUS. and seedsmen and florists frequently devote an entire price list to them . A good type of 142 DAHLIA. 143 DAHLIA. the garden narcissus will be found in the Narcissus poeticus, or Poet's Narcissus, with white petals and a yellow cup, edged with vivid scarlet, of whose flowers an illustration is given here. Dahlia (not* ord. Compos'itSB). This beautiful flowering plant, named after the Swedish botanist, Dahl, belongs to the same family, and is a native of the same country as the potato, namely, Mexico, where it was found in sandy plains 5,000 feet above the level of the sea. It was sent to Europe in 1789, by Cervantes, then the director of the Mexican Botanic Gardens, who was a Spaniard ; Mexico being at that time under Spanish rule. He named it Dahlia coccinea. Under the im- pression that sandy soil was its proper com- DOUBLE VARIETY OF DAHLIA. post, it lingered in our gardens, a miserable scraggy plant, till 1815, when a fresh and improved stock was introduced from France, and it was taken up by the florists. Under the influence of cultivation, it has been so much improved in form as to become one of the finest flowers of the garden, while the shades of colour are so numerous, so diverse, and so opposite, and in so many shades, that it would be difficult to find another plant at once so hardy and so showy. Propagation. — Dahlias may be multiplied by seeds, by dividing the tuber — every eye, when separated with a portion of the tuber, making a plant. Others, again, cut off the young shoots under the lower leaves, and strike them in small pots filled with sandy soil. Experiments have even been made to ascertain how far grafting would succeed with the dahlia. Seedlings : their Management. — Seed- lings are procured by sowing the seeds in shallow pans and plunging them into a hotbed, or by sowing on hotbeds, prepared for the purpose, in March. The soil should be light and sandy, with a mixture of peat- mould. The seed should be chosen from the best varieties only ; it should be lightly covered with soil. A few days will bring them .up, when they require all the air which can be given them safely. In April they will be ready for potting off either singly in the smallest sized, or round the edge of 6-inch pots, which strengthens them for final planting out. Towards the middle or end of August, if successfully treated, they will begin to bloom ; at this time they should be examined daily, all single and demi-single bloom thrown away, unless they present some new colour or show some peculiar habit of growth, which may be improved by further cultivation and crossing. Caution in this respect is the more necessary, as it is the habit of the dahlia to improve under a second year's cultivation, some of our finest varieties having come up with indifferent flowers as seedlings. When done flowering, the young bulbs are taken up and treated as old tubers. Cuttings : their Management. — Cuttings are taken as follows : — In February or March, and even as late as the first week in April, the tuber, which has been care- fully wintered in a dry place, is placed in soil placed over a hotbed, and in a very short time as many shoots as there are eyes DAHLIA. 144 DAHLIA. in the tuber make their appearance. As soon as these are 2 inches long, they are taken off just below the leaves, struck singly in small pots, and again placed in the same hotbed. Others prefer cutting up the tuber as soon as the eyes are dis- tinguishable, and replacing them either in the soil of the hotbed or in pots ; but to obtain short-jointed, stout, and healthy plants, it is desirable that they should be rooted from cuttings taken off in April, and struck in a gentle hotbed, as cuttings struck in April are more healthy than those struck at an earlier period, and consequently form better flowering plants. As soon as rooted they should be potted in 5 -inch pots, and again placed in a gentle heat, but with plenty of air. A week after they are potted they -should receive a watering of liquid manure made from guano and powdered charcoal, well mixed with rain water, re- peating this occasionally till the time of planting out. Fumigate the frame with tobacco, should there be any appearance of the green fly. Weak Growth, Precautions against. — Where any of the plants show a weak and drooping growth, time will be saved by re-striking the top; although they will bloom later, the flowers will be stronger than they would be after the plant has received a check. Another and more common practice in gardens is to place the whole tuber in some warm place in March, and, when the eyes show themselves, cut up the tubers, and in May plant them at once six inches below the surface, in the place where they are to bloom, staking them and leaving them to nature until they are sufficiently grown to compel attention ; but even for common bedding-out purposes, and for filling up gaps, the plant is worthy of greater care than this amounts to. Bedding Out. — Early in May beds are repaired for their reception, if they are to be grown in massed beds. The form of the beds will depend on the general design of the garden ; if a portion of the garden is devoted to them, either for the plants or the flowers, they will be best displayed in beds 3 feet wide, with alleys between. The beds being marked by stakes placed at each corner, 4 inches of the surface soil is re- moved, and 4 inches of thoroughly rotted manure put in its place, and the whole deeply dug and the manure thoroughly mixed with the soil in digging. In the beds thus prepared the plants are placed, the collar, as they have grown in the pots, being on the surface of the beds. The 3-foot beds will receive each a row ; the stakes are firmly fixed, 4, 5, or 6 feet apart, according to the size of the plants ; the plants themselves are planted 4 inches deep, so that the crown of the plant is just above the surface. As the plant increases in growth, tying up commences ; at the same time a diligent search should be made for slugs, earwigs, and other pests of the garden. These must be rooted out, or they will root out the dahlias, or at least destroy their flower. Management in Summer. — During Jane and July dahlias require careful attention in watering and stirring the soil about the roots. As the lateral shoots attain sufficient length, tie them up so as to prevent their breaking, placing other stakes for the pur- pose, should that be necessary. The roots should be assisted by stirring the soil with a fork every two or three weeks, and by copious watering, removing all dead or straggling shoots, and keeping the plant trim and well staked. When they are intended either for exhibition or for highly- developed flowers, only one bud should be left on a shoot, and the flower should be protected both from the sun and rain by tin sconces, oilskin caps, or inverted flower pots, placed over the top of the stake to which it is tied. As the autumn approaches, the swelling shoots render it necessary to DAHLIA. 145 DAISY FORK. examine those tied up, slackening the strings, where necessary, to prevent them from being galled. Light coloured flowers are confirmed in their beauty by seclusion from sun and air while they are de- veloping their bloom. Darker flowers, on the contrary, lose much of their brilliancy if too much shaded ; they should, there- fore, only be shaded partially from the direct rays of the meridian sun. Soil. — Where dahlias are to fill a place in the general arrangement of the garden and shrubbery, care should be taken to supply them with suitable soil. Peat mould, mixed wi:h sand, is useful in de- veloping stripes and spots on the flower. Management in Autumn. — In October it is necessary to revise the names, and see that they are all correct ; and that seed, which is to be saved for propagation, is secured before it is injured by the frost. It is desirable, also, to provide against any sudden and unexpected arrival of severe weather, by drawing the earth round the stems in a conical form, which will protect the roots from frost while they are yet in a growing state, as well as diminish the moisture which encourages growth. Even in November, in mild seasons, the dahlia will remain fresh and gay if the weather is open and clear ; but in general the earlier flowers will have passed away, and their time for rest will have come. When the frost turns their foliage brown or black, take up the plants and cut off the roots, leaving 6 inches or so of stem attached ; then .plunge them into a box of ashes, chaff, or sand, in order to preserve them from damp, frost, and heat, during the winter. Named Varieties.— -The number of named dahlias in cultivation is very large, but collections may be obtained from any nurseryman or grower. The dahlia was a speciality of the late Mr. Charles Turner, Royal Nursery, Slough, Bucks, and buyers may there supply themselves with the very best selection possible, or they may get them from Messrs. H. Cannell and Sons, Home of Flowers, Swanley, Kent, who possess a very large stock both of double and single dahlias, comprising all the newest varieties. Daisies on Lawn. To clear a lawn of daisies, there is nothing equal to the continued use of the daisy-fork. With this ingenious little tool several square yards of apparently the most hopeless grass can be cleared in a few days. The fork should be used in moist weather, and the grass well rolled afterwards. Daisy (nat. ord. Compos'itse). There are many varieties of this plant well worthy of cultivation. Among the most beautiful are the large double, the large quilled, and the hen-and-chickens. These, in a very rich soil, produce fine flowers, and are admirably adapted for edgings. Interesting specimens may be obtained from seed. Daisy Fork. Daisies should never be allowed to flower: a good daisy rake, with a little trouble, will remove all flowers as they come out ; but the only plan to clear a lawn effectually of these disagreeable weeds is to take them out with the daisy fork wherever they are found. This handy little tool is made in different forms, or rather with handles of different lengths, bu* the principle is the same in all. A short form of the fork is shown in the accompany- ing illustration. This consists of an iron shaft about ^ inch square, set in a wooden handle. The extremity of the iron is formed into a cleft fork, as shown at A. '1'bte *wk is thrust into the ground, so as to taice the daisy plant between the prongs or tines. The iron ring which is attached to the DAISY RAKE. 146 DAPHNE. iron is then pressed against the ground, and acts as a fulcrum, on which the cleft end is raised when the handle is pressed downwards. The raising of the cleft end lifts the daisy out of the ground. It is sometimes used to remove docks and dande- lions, but it is not so effectual for these SHORT FORM OF DAISY FORK. weeds, which have long tap roots which are firmly secured to the ground, and generally break when an attempt is made to lift the plant. Daisies, and indeed all weeds, are more easily removed in wet weather, or after a shower, than when the ground is dry. Daisy Rake. A daisy rake is very easily made. Its form and construction is shown in the annexed wood engraving. First of all a thin plate of iron is obtained, and cut into broad teeth along one edge : the iron DAISY RAKE. should be just so thick as not to bend easily to pressure or any resistance. Two slips of ash are then cut out, each being of the length of the iron, and about f inch in thickness and 2 inches wide. These are bevelled towards the inner edge — the upper one but slightly, and the other to the thick- ness of £ inch. The iron is placed between them, and the two pieces of wood and the iron are all firmly fastened together by stout screws or rivets. A handle is then put into the rake, as shown in the illustration. Holes should be drilled through the iron plate to admit of the passage of the rivets and handle. The teeth of the rake should be slightly bent upwards, or, in other words, slightly curved. Damping off. When the leaves, flowers, or stems of plants decay prematurely and present a rotten and mildewed appearance, they are said to "damp off." This damp- ing off is sometimes caused, by too much moisture irT the air, or an excess of water given to the roots. Over watering when the plants have been kept too dry is some- times the cause. Too low a temperature will often occasion it, and then the obvious course is to raise the temperature. The transfer of the plants which are thus affected to fresh soil will sometimes check it, but this can by no means be regarded as a sure and effectual remedy. Dandelions, to Kill. Cut the tops off in the spring, and place a pinch of salt, or a little gas-tar, on the fresh wound. It must be borne in mind that the root of the dandelion, when boiled down, makes an excellent tonic especially useful in liver complaints. Further, the young shoots of the dandelion may be rendered available for salads, by treating roots in winter in the manner described for chicory, which see. Daph'lie (nat. ord. Thymela'cese). Beautiful shrubs, remarkable for the elegance of their flowers and for their bright red poisonous berries. Daphne DATURA. DELPHINIUM. Mezereum is the best - known variety of the hardy deciduous section. The dwarf hardy evergreen daphnes are somewhat tender ; they bear pink flowers, very fragrant. There is a Chinese daphne, D. odora, which is a great ornament in the greenhouse, but too tender for the open air. Datu'ra (not. ord. Solana'cesB). A tribe of highly ornamental plants, hardy annuals, producing large sweet- scented trumpet-shaped flowers of the most attractive character, and succeeding in any light rich soil. Datura chlorantha flore pleno has magnificent golden-yellow double flowers; D. Wrightii, or meteloides^ has large flowers either white or bluish violet in colour. The following are some DATURA PASTUOSA. of the best- known varieties, always except- ing D. Stramonium, or Thorn Apple, with white flowers, a plant indigenous to Eng- land, and therefore often met with growing wild— D. ceratocaulon, — satin-white, striped purple, very handsome, 2 ft. D. fastuosa, — fine violet outside and white within, from 2 ft. to 3 ft. D. flore pleno (chlorantha fl. pi),— rich golden- yellow, a magnificent, free -flowering sweet- acented variety, 2 ft. D. Knightii, — white, splendid double flowen with exquisite odour, 3 ft. D. quercifolia,— lilac, oak-leaved, i ft. to 2 ft. D. Wrightii (rneteloides),_white or bluish violet, an exquisite, sweet-scented green-hous* evergreen. Of the Daturas, one at least is pos- sessed of value for medicinal purposes, the leaves of Datura stramonium being dried like tobacco-leaves, and then smoked in cases of asthma, the inhala- tion of the smoke affording, it is said, relief to the lungs and to the person suffering from the disease, by facilitating breathing. It is prepared and sold for this purpose by herbalists, from whom it may be obtained by those who have a desire to try it. Otherwise the plant is of interest and ornamental, bearing as it does large bell-shaped white flowers and pale green leaves curiously pointed at wide intervals. Deciduous Shrubs. See Arboretum, Shrubs for, and Shrubs, Deciduous. Deciduous Trees. See Arboretum Trees for, and Trees, Deciduous. Delphinium (nat. ord. Ranuncula' cese). A genus of profuse- flowering annuals, biennials, and perennials, of a highly DELPHINIUM AJACIS- DOUBLE VARIETY. decorative character. Planted in larp DESMODIUM. 148 DIBBLE. beds or groups, their gorgeous spikes of flowers, of almost endless shades, from pearl-white to the very richest and deepest blue, render them conspicuous objects in the flower garden and pleasure ground : they delight in deep, highly enriched soil. All kinds are raised from seeds, but the herbaceous perennials may be increased by cuttings and division of the roots as well. The common larkspur (Delphinium Ajads) belongs to this genus, which includes D. formosum and many others remarkable for magnificent spikes of bloom, chiefly of darker or lighter shades of blue. (nat. ord. Legumino'sse). A pretty greenhouse plant, flowering in long spikes of white, rose, blue, or purple, and having curiously twisted seed-vessels. It succeeds well in sandy loam and peat, and is propagated by seeds or cuttings struck under a hand-glass in sand in gentle bottom heat. Desmodium Canadense, with red flowers inclining to purple, is a hardy variety. Deilt'zia (nat. ord. Saxifra'gese). A beautiful hardy shrub, covered with pretty snowdrop-like flowers when in bloom, exceedingly valuable for the spring decoration of the conservatory. They are propagated by cuttings under a hand-glass in spring or autumn. The plants should be repotted every year in a compost of rich loam, well rotted cow manure, and coarse sand. They are well adapted for forcing. but should be exempted from this process every alternate year. The best-known variety is Deutzia gracilis, with pure white flowers, which attains a height of from I to 2 feet at most, and is well suited for deco- ration within doors. Rose. See Roses, Tea Scented China. Dian'thus (not. ord. Caryophylla'cera). A beautiful genus, which embraces some of the most popular flowers in cultivation. The carnation, picotee, pink, and sweet- william, all universal favourites, belong to this genus. Dianthus Sinensis and its varieties may be considered the most beau- tiful and effective of our hardy annuals ; the double and single varieties, with their DIANTHUS HEDDEWIGII. rich and varied colours in beds or masses, are remarkably attractive ; while the re- cently introduced species, D. Heddewign, with its large rich-coloured flowers, 3 to 4 inches in diameter, close compact habit, and profusion of bloom, is unsur- passed for effectiveness in beds or mixed borders. Dibble or Dibber. This is an indispensable tool in any garden where much planting out is done, and must be called into requisition for the transference to open ground or other quarters of most plants that are grown in seed bed's originally, and then planted apart at regular and wider intervals. The best form of dibble is shown in the accompanying illustration. It may be de- scribed as a short piece of rounded wood, terminating in a blunt point at one end, and a handle like that of a spade at the DIELVTRA. 149 DIGGING. I other ; indeed, the handle of an old spade is one of the best and most handy thing possible for conversion into a dibble. The pointed end is thrust into the earth to a sufficient depth, and the root of the plant, whatever it may be, is thrust into the hole, and the earth brought round it by two or three thrusts of the dibble into the soil at a short distance from the plant itself. When it is desired to make holes of a certain depth, or to make a number of holes of uniform depth, an iron socket should be made, with a projecting piece on one side and divided on the other, with a plate on each side of the division, which may be tight- ened or loosened by the action of a thumb-screw, so as to admit of the socket being easily shifted up and down the stem of the dibble, or being held immovable in position, as may be found requisite. This is the principle of the potato dibble, which, how- ever, is longer, and in which the project- ing piece at the side is fixed at a certain distance from the point. There are other forms of dibbles, but this is the most com- mon, the most useful, and generally pre- ferred by gardeners. Dielytra (««/. ord. Fumariacese). The name of a genus of hardy herbaceous plants, by which one member is so well known to gardeners generally that it is better, perhaps, to describe it here under the appellation it has gained by long usage than to place it under its true name Dicentra, under which few, if any, would look for it. The best known of the family is Dielytra spectabilis, a very handsome plant both in habit and foliage as well as in flowers, which are of a peculiar wing-like shape, growing in long racemes. There are two varieties of this plant, one with rosy pink blossoms, and the other with white. Although hardy, it is safer to winter it in a cold frame. It is often forced in late winter for the adornment of the conserva- tory in early spring. It likes a light rich soil, and is increased by parting the roots in spring. If forced, it must not be sub- jected to a higher temperature than 50 degrees. It should be freely watered when growing and on coming into bloom. Digging. This is done with the spade ot fork, the latter implement being far more effectual and easier to use in breaking up and loosening stiff soil. In digging with the fork, however, little can be done beyond breaking and turning over the ground and reducing the clods thus turned up. In dig- ging with the spade, the soil can be trans- ferred more readily from one position to another. In digging over a piece of ground the first thing to be done is to take out a trench about a spade deep and a spade wide, or, in other words, about 12 inches in depth and the same in width. The soil from this trench should be removed to the other end of the gro. nd to be dug over for a purpose DIGITALIS. DOG'S-TOOTH VIOLETS. which will be seen presently. Another trench of the same size is now taken out, and the soil is transferred into the first trench and then broken up by cutting and beating with the spade. This process is carried on until the whole ground has been dug over and the last trench taken out is filled with the soil taken from the first trench. In digging, all roots, bran- bind, &c., should be carefully picked out, and the clods thoroughly broken up. In manuring during digging, the manure should be thrown with the fork along the bottom of the trench, and the earth from the next trench thrown on top of it. This is simple digging to a spade deep. A more complex system is described in 7"reitching> which see. Digitalis (nat. ord. Scrophularia'cese). Remarkably handsome and highly orna- mental hardy perennials, of stately growth and easy culture, especially adapted for shrubbery borders, woodland walks, and DIGITALIS OR FOXGLOVE. pleasure grounds. They thrive in' almost any soil and situation. The digitalis will be recognised at once under its more familiar name of foxglove, the white rariety of which is more highly prized and better suited for gardens and shrub- beries than the commoner red variety. It is raised from seed. Disbudding. The object of disbudding, which is done in April and May, is to remove all useless sprays not required for next year's branches, which would not, from their position, ripen into desirable fruit-bearing wood ; it is, in fact, to relieve the tree from nursing wood that must be cut away in the autumn- pruning ; but it must be the care of the operator to avoid removing shoots well placed for future branches, or which would expose the tree to too severe a trial of its vital power. Disposition of Crops. See Crops, Disposition of. Distance between Shrubs. Shn'bs, Distance between. See Distance between Trees in Pinetum. See Pinetum, Distance between Trees in. Docks. The dock is a weed that has a resem- blance to horseradish in its growth and long broad leaves. Docks, as dandelions, may be got rid of by cutting off the tops as soon as they appear, and placing a little salt on the wound. Dog's-TOQth Violets (nat. ord. Lilia'- cese). The Erythronium, or Dog's-Tooth Violet, is a pretty little bulbous plant, with beauti- fully spotted leaves. When planted as an edging to beds or borders, they are remark- ably effective, and do well in any light soil. To prevent decay, surround the tubers with about an inch of silver-s:ind. There are several varieties, but the best known aad most in request is Erythronium deus cains^ DRAINAGE. DRAINAGE. the common dog's-tooth violet, which sends forth its lilac flowers in March. Drainage. However high and apparently dry a situation may appear, it is quite possible that it requires to be drained. The object of draining is not only to get rid of super- fluous moisture, but also to prevent the little there may be from remaining stag- nant. It is quite a common occurrence to find a piece of ground that is never too wet, but which is, nevertheless, sour and unfitted for the cultivation of delicate flowers. It should, therefore, be the first care of the florist to make drains from the highest part of the ground to the lowest, three feet from the surface, dug in a V SECTION OF DRAIN. shape, as shown in the accompanying dia- gram ; and if there be no outlet at the lowest part, to dig a hole, or well, or pond, into which all these should lead, even when there is no apparent means of getting rid of the water. At the bottom of these drains, along the narrowest part below the shoulders A A, a row of common 2-inch earthen pipes may be placed, end to end, and covered up again with the soil. These are too deep to cause any danger of disturb- ance in ordinary operations ; and the effect is to let air into the soil, if there be no surplus moisture : and to prevent the lodg- ment of water anywhere, a distance of about a rod apart, in parallel lines, will be sufficiently close for the drains, and a larger drain along the bottom, or a ditch, may lead at once to the outlet or the recep- tacle for the water. Suppose, however, the soil is really surcharged with water, and there is no place but the pond made for the purpose into which this water can pass, and suppose, while we are imagining evils, that this pond or hole fills higher than the bot- toms of the drains, it is obvious, in such cases, that the drains cannot empty them- selves. Still, even such drains are of use ; if they can only dischaige all the water in the driest season, immense good is done by them. If the pond be not too large, a garden-engine may be set to work to lower the water by throwing it over the surface ; and although it may fill as fast as the water is taken away, there is a circulation of water going on in the soil, instead of moisture being stagnant, and the ground made sour. The rationale of drainage is thus ex- plained by Mr. D. T. Fish. "Drainage," he says, "as popularly imderstoed, means the art of laying land dry. This, however, is a very imperfect definition, both of its theoretical principles and practical results. Paradoxical as it may appear, drainage is almost as useful in keeping land moist as in laying it dry. Its proper function is to maintain the soil in the best possible hygrometrical condition for the develop- ment of vegetable life. Drainage has also a powerful influence in altering the texture of soils. It enriches their plant -feeding capabilities, elevates their temperature, and improves the general climate of a whole district, by increasing its temperature, and removing unhealthy exhalations. It lays land dry, by removing superfluous water ; it keeps it moist, by increasing its power of resisting the force of evaporation ; it alters the texture, by the conduction of DRAINAGE OF POTS. 152 DRAINING MATERIALS. water, and by filling the interstices pre- viously occupied by that fluid with atmo- spheric air ; it enriches the soil, by separating carbonic acid gas and ammonia from the atmosphere, and by facilitating the decomposition, absorption, and amal- gamation of liquid and solid manures. It heightens the temperature of the earth, by husbanding its heat, and surrounding it with an envelope of comparatively dry air, and by substituting the air for water with- drawn through the interstices of the soil ; for while the tendency of excessive mois- ture in the soil is to bind the whole mass into an almost solid substance, the tendency of air is to separate its particles into atoms, and render it porous : and the more porous a soil is, the greater is its power of resisting evaporation. For this reason, porous soils are more moist in hot weather than those of a more tenacious character. " Drainage enriches soils in another way. All rain-water is more or less charged with carbonic acid gas and ammonia. Now, the larger the quantity of rain-water that passes through the soil, the greater will be the amount of these gases brought in contact with the roots of plants. Nor is this all : solid manures of the richest quality are comparatively useless on wet, heavy soils ; for while a certain amount of moisture is essential to the decomposition of manures, an excess arrests the process, and all the most soluble portions are washed out long before it is sufficiently decomposed to enter into the composition of plants. Judicious drainage, therefore, places the soil in a proper hygrometrical condition for perform- ing its important functions." Drainage of Pots. The effectual drainage of pots does not Consist so much in the quantity of drainage as in the arrangement of it. A potsherd should be placed over the whole ; some i ieces of pot, broken rather small, over that ; and these again covered with a layer of peat-fibre or rough earth. This gives efficient drainage, and need not occupy more than an inch and a half of the j>ot. The pots made in accordance with Crute's patent are so constructed as to greatly facilitate drainage, and the introduction of broken potsherds, otherwise known as " crocking," is obviated by the use of Crute's Patent Cap, which induces perfect drainage and promote aeration and venti- lation of the soil. Draining Implements. The implements used in draining are a spade, and in deep draining, and in a clay soil, a series of two or three spades, varying in size, and each sloping to the point, and DRAINING IMPLEMENTS. slightly rounded, so as to make a circular cut ; a spoon-like implement abo is re- quired for lifting the loose soil clear out of the bottom of the trench ; and a level, which may easily be formed by fixing three perfectly straight-edged boards in an up- right position and in a triangular form, held together by a vertical board in the centre, DKEDGEK 153 DUTCH HOE. with an opening at its base for a line and plummet. The usual form of a trench for drainage is shown under Drainage. The broader spade A is used for making the upper and larger part of the trench, and the narrower spades i; and c for forming the lower and smaller part in which the drain pipes are laid. The tool D shows the shape and form of the implement for clearing loose earth from the bottom of the trench along which the pipes are laid. Draining Materials. The materials employed for drains are very varied ; brushwood, rubble, stones, bricks, and pipes being all in use. In clay countries it is no unusual thing to form pipes with the clay itself, by inserting an arched framework of wood, and withdraw- ing it when consolidated. The best and cheapest drains, however, are drain-pipes, which are now obtainable everywhere on moderate terms. Dredger for Lime and Soot. For caterpillars, slugs, &c., a dressing or sprinkling of lime or soot is most useful, either when applied to themselves when visible or to the plants on which they feed or the plants they frequent. Salt is also a deadly poison to slugs. The difficulty that most people find is in procuring means for the application of the powder. An old flour dredger that is past kitchen use will answer the purpose admirably; but if nothing of this kind is available, a dredger can be easily made out of a cylin- drical tin can, as shown in the accompanying illustra- tion. At A the perforated cover is shown in plan. To make this, the cover should be placed on its outer surface on a piece of hard wood or lead, \vith the inner surface upper ™ , . , DREDGER. most. Pmd the centre, and with a pair of compasses trace some fine circles, as shown in the illustration. Then, with an old bradawl that has been sharpened to a point, make holes in the tin along the circles that have been described, driving the bradawl point through the metal by striking a smart blow on the handle with a hammer. Dusting Bellows. See Bellows, Dusting. Dutch Hoe. See iioe. ARLY HORN CARROTS. See Carrots, Early Horn. Earthing-up. A term employed to describe the drawing up of soil about the stem or stajjis of any growing plant, as, for example, peas, beans, potatoes, celery, leeks, and many other plants. It induces the growth of rootlets from the stem in some cases, and affords greater shelter for the roots. In the case of the potato it facilitates the formation of tubers, which are found below and around the bottom part of the haulm and near the surface. It is desirable also to draw up the soil round the stalks of cabbages of all kinds. Ah ! Edelweiss, ill-omened flower That sorrow brought to lady's bower And cost her 'love his life. Alas ! she sent him to his doom, In yawning rift to find a tomb — A rest from Earth's sore strife. ANON. Earwig Trap. Earwigs love concealment, and if dis- covered will make for the nearest hiding- place without a moment's delay. On this account they will plunge into the hearts of dahlias, roses, carnations, and all flowers FIG. I. — SIMPLE EARWIG TKM'. of sufficient size and such structure as to enable the earwigs to utilise them for shelter. Hence it is that hollow sticks, made of pieces of elder with the pith cleared out, flower pots on the top of a 154 EARWIG TRAP. 155 ECHINOPS. stake, and cabbage leaves, &c., are recom- mended as means of entrapping earwigs, £c. Cabbage leaves are all very well as FIG. 2. K1G. 3 FIG. 2.— EARWIG 'TRAP, EXTERIOR. FIG. 3.— EARWIG TRAP. SECTIOK, SHOWING INTERIOR. tempting cover for slugs, &c., which can- not make good their escape in a hurry, but earwigs can and will, as soon as the leaf, stick, or flower pot is disturbed by the touch of the gardener. The good and simple kind of trap is a wooden or metal box, formed as shown in Fig. i, and having a hole at the top, in which a funnel-shaped glass is placed. The earwigs, &c., make their way into the trap down the funnel, but cannot get out again, and when there they may be killed by pouring boiling water on them. The earwig trap illustrated in the accom- panying engravings will be found useful by those who cultivate dahlias, roses, and such other plants as are subject to the depreda- tions of earwigs, &c. Fig. 2 represents the trap as it appears fixed on a stake, and P'ig. 3 shows the sec- tion with the chamber, from which there is no escape, and to which the insects retire after their nocturnal depredations. The trap is then inverted, the inner cone re- moved, and the insects destroyed. This is most readily done by means of boiling water. Very small garden-pots containing a little dry moss may be inverted on the top of a stick, and in this way will form a good trap when placed among flowering plants. Indeed, earwigs will find their way into or under everything that affords concealment. Echeveria (««*. ord. Crassula'cese). A pretty rosette-shaped plant with thick fleshy leaves, propagated by offsets growing from the base of the plant, and easily de- tached and rooted in any good light soil. It bears red and yellow flowers, arranged like bells along a tall stem. It is useful for rockwork and ornamental planting in beds and borders. Eccremocar'pus (nat. ord. Big- nonia'cese). A half-hardy climber of great beauty ; bearing rich orange-coloured flowers in pro- fusion. It will grow in any common soil, and may be easily raised from seed, which it ripens in abundance. Sow in autumn on a slight hotbed, and the plants, after two or three shiftings, will be ready for ECCRKMOCARI'US SCARER. turning out in April or May. If cut down in autumn, and covered with dry leaves, the Eccremocarpus will live through any ordinary winter, and shoot up again vigor- ously in the spring. The best-known variety is Eccremocarpus scaber, which at- tains a height of 6 feet, and bears racemes of bright orange red flowers. Echi'nops (nat. ord. Compos'itse). The Echinops, or Globe-thistle, is a strong-growing, free-flowering plant of considerable beauty, suitable for large shrubbery borders. It grows freely in any EDGING. 156 EDGING TOOLS. soil. The varieties are all hardy annuals or biennials. One of the best known of the latter is Echinops Banaticus^ with blue flowers, which attains a height of 3 feet. Edelweiss (nat. ord. Compos'itse). A hardy woolly perennial herb growing on the Alps. It will grow in this country on rock-work and in well-drained pots in sandy soil well pressed together. It is pro- pagated from seeds or by division of old plants. Its scientific name is Leontopodium Alpimim. Edging. . Sometimes gardens are laid down on a mixed plan of grass and gravel. When each bed is edged with brick, stone, tile, or cement, these edgings are occasionally surrounded with from 2 to 4 feet of gravel, succeeded by the same or a greater width of turf. Beds on grass, however, unless much elevated above the surface, are most effective without any edgings what- ever ; although, in certain situations, raised beds, with massive edgings of stone or rustic-work, look well. For beds on gravel, an edging of some kind becomes impera- tive. Of all living edgings box is the best ; thrift, sedums,and saxifrages of various kinds, especially Saxifraga hypnoides, fol- low each other in value and adaptability for this purpose. There is, however, one thing against all edgings of this description, and that is, that they afford a harbour for slugs, snails, &c. Ornamental stone, tile, brick, or cast-iron edgings, are probably better than any living edging whatever. These can neither afford a lodgment for insects, exhaust the soil, nor look patchy through dying off; and although perhaps more expensive in the first instance, the first expense is the only one. They can be purchased on very reasonable terms, and of varied and elegant designs. Whatever edgings are used, they must vary in height and thickness with the size of the beds they define. Nothing can be in worse taste than a heavy massive edging surrounding a small delicate pattern, or vice tersA. Ornamental wirework often makes a very effective edging for different beds. A useful edging is sometimes made of thin boarding, say about \ inch in thickness, and from 3 to 4^ inches wide. Bricks, set with one corner upwards, and laid one on the other, along the edge of the border, make a strong and useful edging, and the same may be said of stakes, disposed in an X f°rm °r threaded on wires in an upright position, every alternate length being I inch shorter than those on either side of it. In the last- named form of edging a long stake should be threaded on at intervals of from 3 to 6 feet to keep the edging in place. This kind of edging adapts itself with great facility to beds with curved outlines. Edging Plants. There are many plants adapted for garden edgings. Among these may be enumerated Buxus sempervireus, better known as box, thrift, cuttings of Iberis saxatilis, daisies, both white and red, the variegated alyssum, feather-grass, &c., &c., and any others named in the preceding remarks on Edging. Edging Tools. Lawns and beds cannot be kept in good order without the frequent use of edging- irons, otherwise known as turf rasers or verge cutters, and edging-shears. The latter, as its name implies, is used foi shearing off the long grass which grows on the edges of turf. A turf raser or verge cutter is an instrument that is used for cut- ting the edge of turf to be taken up in rolls from grass land for the purpose of laying down on lawns, or for cutting the edges of lawns already laid, turf verges, beds, &c. The simplest form of raser is shown in Fig. I. In this, a stick or handle, bent at the end, so that the horizontal part may rest EDGING TOOLS. 157 EGG-PLANT. flat on the turf when held by the operator, has a coulter-shaped knife or cutting-iron inserted close to the bend. An iron ring should be put over the handle on each side of the blade, partly to strengthen the tool and partly to keep the cutter in position. When pushed along in front of the work- man the blade cuts the turf in a line of any length, and to the depth at which the knife is set. It is useful only for cutting turf to lay down on lawns. In Fig. 2, an ordinary tool for cutting the edges of lawns, &c. , is represented. This consists of a crescent- shaped blade, with an iron socket in the centre, into whfch the handle is put. The manner of using it is obvious. Macintosh's Verge Cutter, sometimes called the wheel verge cutter, although this name is generally applied to a circular iron plate with a sharp edge, set in the end of a long handle, has a small flat stage, as After all, the edge of a sharp, well-worn spade is as good a means as any for cutting the edge of a lawn, verge, bed, &c., and in FIG. I. — TURF RASER. FIG. 2. — VERGE CUTTER. shown in Fig. 3, at the end of a handle terminating in a bar set at right angles to it or in a Q -formed handle, like a spade handle. In the central line of this plat- form is a slot in which a wheel works, as shown in the illustration, and on either side is a projecting piece, in which a coulter- shaped iron is inserted. When this machine is wheeled along close to the edge of a lawn or a bed, the knife will take off all projec- tions and rough grass and reduce the edge to a well-defined line. The coulters, how- ever, soon get blunt, and require frequent changing and sharpening. FIG. 3. — M INTOSH'S VKR nine cases out of ten a skilful gardener will use this in preference lo any other, follow- ; ing curved lines with his eye, and regulating ! a straight line, especially when of consider - ; able length, by stretching the garden line from end to end of it. It is better to avoid : the cutting of grass edges as much as pos- ! sible, because an interval of bare earth, which is scarcely ornamental, is thus left between the grass and the path. It is pre- ferable to see the edge gently rounded, so that the grass may meet the gravel without any break. Such an edge may not be so easy to mow with the appliances ordinarily used, but at all events it can be easily finished with the shears, the appearance it presents amply compensating for the small amount of extra trouble and labour in- volved. Edward'sia (naf. ord. Legumino'sse). Half-hardy shrubs and trees, beautiful for their foliage and curiously-shaped flowers. They are natives of New Zealand, and flourish best in our climate under the protection of a wall. They seed freely, and in this way are easily propagated in sand in June and July, under a hand-glass. Egg-Plant See Aubergine. Egg-Plant (not. ord. Solona'cese). A very singular and ornamental class of fruit-bearing half-hardy annuals, especially EGG-PLANT. 158 EMPEROR STOCK. adapted for conservatory or drawing-room decoration : they thrive best in very rich light soil. The best known are Solanum ovigerum and the Aubergine — S. melongena — the edible variety of the egg-plant, so extensively cultivated in the south of Europe. Time and Manner of Sowing. — The seed should be sown in March, or early in April, in well-drained pots of light rich soil, and covered lightly. Place the pots in a cucum- ber or melon-frame, or where a moderate heat is maintained, and keep the soil moist. When the plants are fairly up, place them singly in small pots, using rich soil, and in the same temperature near to the glass. EGG-PLANT — VO.r. SOLANUM OVIGERUM. When they have started into growth, induce a bushy habit by frequently pinching out the points. After-management. — As soon as the plants have well filled the first pots with roots, shift them into others two sizes larger, still using rich light soil. Keep them well supplied with water at the roots. If they are intended for decorative purposes, they should be shifted into 8 or lo-inch pots before the roots become matted. Stop the shoots at the first joint beyond the fruit as soon as this is set, and keep them in a moist, warm situation until the fruit attains a fair size, when they may be placed in a cool bouse. But if the plants are tt> be grown with the view of obtaining the largest possible crop of fruit, they should in favourable localities be planted out of doors, when the weather becomes warm, in prepared trenches, such as are recom- mended for ridge cucumbers. They should have the protection of hand-glasses until they are well established and the weather becomes settled and warm. If they can be planted out on a slight hotbed under the shelter of a frame, there will be more cer- tainty of a good crop than by any other method of treatment. The plants when grown in pots are very subject to the attack of red spider, and will require frequent syringings to keep them clear of this pest. They must be liberally supplied with water at the roots, and weak manure-water after the fruit is set will be useful. The varieties of the Aubergine are the Scarlet-fruited, White-fruited, and Black or Purple-fruited, the fruit of the last named being most used in soups, stews, &c. Elm and Chief Varieties. Of the elm, Ulmus, in addition to Ulmus campestris, which is the old English elm, we find U. foliis variegatis, a variegated elm ; U.glabra pendula, a smooth, weeping elm ; U. rugosa pendula, a rough weeping elm ; U. latifolia, the broad-leaved elm, and many others, all valuable as large trees, for though they require a rich, deep soil, they will live and flourish in the smoky atmosphere of crowded towns. Emperor Stock. The Emperor or Imperial, sometimes called Perpetual Stocks, are hybrids of the Brompton, growing 18 inches high, and of a robust branching habit. Sown in March or April, they make splendid "autumn-flowering stocks," and form a valuable succession to the summer-bloom- ing varieties: Should the winter prove mild, they will continue flowering to Christ- ENDIVE. 159 EPACRIS. mas. Sown in June or July, they flower the following June, and continue blooming through the summer and autumn months. Endive. This vegetable is grown chiefly for winter use and for salads in early spring. Preparation of the Soil.— Trench the ground to a depth of two feet, mixing a very liberal dressing of rich and thoroughly decayed manure. For crops intended to stand the winter, a light, dry, and rather poor soil is best, and they should be planted in a sheltered situation. Time and Manner of Sowing. — Make the first sowing about the middle of May on a bed of well -pulverised rich soil, scattering GREEN CURLED ENDIVE. the seed thinly, and covering it lightly, or sow in drills, if it is not intended to trans- plant them. If sown in drills, let the rows be from 12 to 15 inches apart, and thin out the plants to the same distance apart in the beds. If sown broadcast, the plants must be thinned out to the distance of 4 or 5 inches apart, and when large enough trans- planted into ground that has been richly manured. The plants should be about 3 inches high before they are transplanted. They should be set the same distance apart as prescribed for thinning out plants sown in drills. Plenty of water should be given when the weather is dry, and liquid manure occasionally. For the main crop sow in the middle of June, and again about the middle of July. Plants to stand the winter should be sown early in August. Planting and After-management. — When the plants are about 4 inches high, transplant, lifting them carefully with as much soil as can be kept about their roots. Place them in about 3 inches deep and 12 to 14 inches apart, and leave about the same distance between the plants. Give a liberal supply of water immediately after planting, and as often as may be requisite to keep the soil moist. Beyond watering and keeping the surface of the soil open and free from weeds, the plants will require no further attention till they are nearly full- grown, when means should be used to blanch them. In the case of the earlier crops this may be done by tying them up when dry, after the same fashion as lettuce, and drawing the soil about them so as to fill the drills in which they are planted, then ridging up the soil two or three inches round each plant. But as late crops in- tended for winfer use are liable to be injured by frost, these should be blanched by covering the plants with inverted pots. When severe weather is feared, a portion of the plants sown in July may be lifted with balls and planted closely together in pits or frames, where they can be protected from frost and wet, yet be fully exposed to the air when the weather permits. Tying and covering should be done at intervals, so as to have a continuous supply well blanched as they may be required for use. The August sowing should be planted out at the bottom of a south wall, or in other sheltered situation. In many localities these plants require the protection of glass to winter them safely. The best varieties are the Green Curled, Batavian Green, Batavian White, White curled, and New Moss curled. Ep'acris (nat. ord. Epacrida'cea). These are heath-like shrubs, natives of New Holland. They all require a fine gritty peat soil, and flourish best in double EPIPHY1.LUM TRUNCATUM. 160 ERICA, OR HEATH. pots, with moist moss between them. The pots should be well drained ; but the roots of the plants must never suffer for want of moisture. They must have plenty of air and light, and just sufficient heat to keep them from frost. Cuttings of the young wood strike easily in sand with a little bottom heat. These plants should be freely cut back as soon as they have done flowering ; and after the shoots have grown afresh, two or three inches long, is the best time for re- potting them. Place them in a close pit, but by no means warm, for a few weeks ; gradually inure them to the air, plunge in a sunny situation : see that the wood is brown and hard by the end of September. Remove to conservatory-shelf in October, and the plants will soon present blooms exhibiting a charming profusion and suc- cession of tiny tubes of colour. There are several varieties, but the green- house plants in general use are hybrids, and it will be best for any one who wishes to have any in his house to consult the grower of whom he purchases them. EpiphyTlum Trunca'tum (nat. ord. Cacta'cese). This is one of the numerous family of Cacti, an abundant flowerer, and requiring only greenhouse heat. For treatment see Cactus. Erica, or Heath. This important genus of greenhouse plants includes five or six hundred described species, and as many varieties produced by cultivation, are the great ornaments of the greenhouse at a time when other flowering plants are scarce; it is therefore impos- sible to overrate their importance, even were their delicate flowers less beautiful than they are. The genus has, moreover, the advantage of furnishing plants which flower summer and autumn, as well as in winter and spring. Ericas and Epacriscs may be purchased of any large nurseryman or grower, who will furnish selections of plants to flower in spring, summer, autumn, or winter, according to the requirements of the buyer. Propagation.— Heaths are propagated by cuttings formed of the tender tops of the young shoots. The cuttings should be an inch or so in length, and should be tenderly used, so as to avoid bruising any part of the stem, and inserted in pots and pans filled with pure white sand, moistened and firmly pressed down. Having inserted the cuttings, water so as to settle the sand about the roots, and having given a little time for the moisture to subside, cover them with bell-glasses, pressing the edges into the sand so as completely to exclude the air, only removing the glasses to wipe off accu- mulated moisture. They should then be placed in the propagating-house, where there is one available, or in a spent hotbed. When they begin to root, which will be seen by the starting of the shoots, they should have air given daily to harden them preparatory to the removal of the bell- glasses. Soil. — The soil best adapted for this plant is .hat obtained from a locality where the wild heath grows luxuriantly, taking care it is not dug too deep ; the turf must not exceed 4 inches — rather less than more ; as, if deeper than that, it is more than probable that the good and nutritious upper soil will become deteriorated by an admixture of inert and mischievous subsoil. The summer is the proper season to pro- cure and store up a heap, which may safely be used after having a summer and winter's seasoning. To prepare the soil for potting or shifting, it should be cut down from a heap so as to disarrange it as little as pos- sible, breaking the lumps well with the back of a spade, and afterwards rubbing the soil through the hands, which is far better th^n ERICA, OR HEATH. 161 ERICAS, OR HEATHS. sifting, as it leaves more of the fibrous de- composing vegetable matter in it ; add to this one-fifth good white sand, and well incorporate the two together. Selection of Plants. — In selecting plants, it is of the utmost importance to choose healthy, dwarf-growing, robust specimens, taking care to avoid anything like meagre, leggy, stunted plants, which might live for years, but give nothing but disappointment to the cultivator. Management ', Watering, &c. — To con- vert plants into handsome well -grown specimens in a moderately short space of time, they must have a liberal shift. A young plant in a 60 or 64 sized pot may be shifted into a 24 or 9-inch pot, taking care that plenty of potsherds are used for drain- age. Care must be taken that the soil is thoroughly mixed, by pressing with the fingers in the fresh pot all round the ball of the plant, so as to make it quite firm and close. After being set away in a cool frame or pit, let them be well watered. This is much facilitated by placing a convex pots- herd over it, and watering with a spout, leaving the water to diffuse itself equally over the whole soil, which is a means of avoiding what often occurs from watering with a rose — viz., the surface only becom- ing moistened while the ball remains im- perviously dry. To give a list of the numerous heaths that are in cultivation, or even a limited section of them, would be comparatively useless to the reader and a waste of space. Growers will always readily furnish buyers with a list of the stock in their hands. It may be useful to add that heaths like plenty of air, which should be given freely, but carefully. From exposure to dry, arid, cutting winds, plants that are growing freely are apt to get a rustiness that will so disfigure them that months will elapse before they are free from it. With respect to plants growing in the heathery, or other house, during the continuance of coid winds, to doors to the eastward should be closed, and air admitted from the front sashes, taking care to let down the top- lights, so as to insure a free circulation of air. When the plants are of free growth, and the weather is of a parching character, it will be necessary to look over them every day, and water them freely, taking care that none be allowed to suffer for want of it, which at this stage would prove destruc- tive to the flowering of the plants, if not to their life. Ericas or Heaths, Hardy, How to grow. Hardy heaths flower chiefly at the end of summer and 'l.iring the autumn, and Erica Carnea blooms early in the spring. For beauty of habit, delicacy of tint, sweetness of perfume, usefulness and durability of bloom, they have few rivals. They are also cheap. Good strong bushy plants, of many varieties, can be supplied by most of the leading growers of American plants, at prices ranging from 6d. each upwards, the price for the great majority being 2s. 6d. each. The one great drawback to their culture is, that generally they must have peat -earth to bring them to perfection or maintain them in health, though Erica Carnca, and several other varieties, do very well in a mixture of loam and leaf- mould. As a rule, however, they all thrive best in a hard, sandy, gritty peat. Bog- peat is hardly fit for their growth, unless it is liberally mixed with sharp sand and the debris of freestone rocks. Dryness and hardness of soil seem to be essential to their maintenance in health. No one can have traversed heath-clad mountains with- out being convinced of this. From 6 inches to a foot of soil is more than most of them find in their natural habitats. It must be borne in mind, however, that in such situations the whole surface is covered 12 ERIOSTEMON. 162 ERVTHRINA. with plants ; consequently the evaporation ol moisture from the soil is checked by the leaves and branches. For their culture in the garden, from 18 in. to 2 ft. of such soil, resting on a dry bottom, would be desirable. Beds or groups of hardy heaths would make a charming display. Such groups would harmonise well with the different fir-trees in or near to the pinetum. Nothing could exceed their beauty, congruity, and adapta- bility, as furnishings for rockwork. Peat- earth could easily be introduced among the crevices, between stones, &c., and the heaths introduced there. They would thrive admirably in such situations, and contrast well with the ferns and other plants that find a congenial home in such localities. Erioste'mon (not. ord. Euta'cese). An interesting genus of greenhouse ever- green shrubs, extremely elegant in growth, and producing in profusion beautiful star- shaped blossoms, white pale pink or rose in colour : they thrive best in fibrous peat mixed with silver sand and a little rich loam. They are propagated by cuttings put in sandy peat under a hand-glass about April, and subjected to gentle bottom heat. The plants require good drainage, and should be watered with care. Ero'dium (not. oni. Gerania'cese). The plants of this genus are partly hardy warm situations, and forming charming little plants for rockwork, edgings, and flower-borders. They are propagated by seed or division of the roots, and succeed in any soil. Perhaps the best known of the few pecies that have been introduced into this country is Erodium peiargonicEflonuu, with white flowers spotted with purple. It is a hardy perennial. Erys'imum (not. ord, Crucif erae). Eree-flowering, and exceedingly showy plants, producing in beds, mixed borders, ERODIUM. and partly half-hardy, doing well in dry, ERVSIMUM PEROFFSK.IANUM. and ribbons, a very fine effect. They are chiefly biennials and perennials, and are raised from seed, which may be obtained from any seedsman. They do best in light rich soil. One of the best known is Erysimum Peroffskianuni, with showy but small orange flowers. It is a hardy annual about 18 inches in height. Erythri'na (nat. oni, Legumino'sse). A splendid genus of half-hardy shrubs, with fine leaves and brilliant scarlet flowers. Planted in a warm, favourable situation out of doors they grow freely, but in most localities they succeed best in a greenhouse, with the advantages of a warm house early in the season. They succeed best in rich ESCALLONIA. 163 ESPALIERS. loam and peat, and are propagated by slip- pings off from the root-stock, young shoots which should not be cut off but be stripped away from the parent plant with a heel to them, and set in fine loam mixed with sand over bottom heat. The best known is the Coral Tree — Erythrina corallodendron> with racemes of deep scarlet flowers, which attains an average height of 9 feet. Escallo'nia (nat. ord. Saxifrageae). Handsome evergreen half-hardy shrubs, with rich glaucous leaves and bunches of pretty tubular flowers. E.floribunda> with white flowers, and E. maerantha, with red- dish crimson blossoms, succeed against a south wall, generally speaking, in the Mid- land counties, and may be utilised in form- ing garden hedges in the south. Any good garden soil is suitable for them, but the drainage should be good. Propagation is effected by suckers and layers, or by cuttings of half-ripened wood placed under a hand-glass in sandy loam. Eschscholt'zia (not. ord. Papave- ra'cese). An exceedingly showy profuse-flowering class of Californian annuals, quite hardy, remarkable for extremely rich and beautiful colouring, and valuable for bedding, mass- \;v'f ESCHSCHOLTZIA CAL'FOKNICA. ing, and ribboning. The annual variety, Eschscholtzia tennifolia, otherwise E. Cali- fornia ccespitosa, is exceedingly neat for small beds, edgings, or rock-work, and delights in light rich soil. E. Californica^ bearing bright yellow flowers with rich orange centre, is a perennial remarkable for the size and beauty of its blossoms. There are, however, many varieties pro- duced by cultivation, which will be found named in the lists of the principal seeds- men. Espaliers. ^ Both natural and artificial sticks, or sticks that are made by hand, may be used for training trees as espaliers. When natural stakes are used, they should be about i£ inch in diameter at the bottom, and i inch at the top; but when made stakes are used, they should be not less than 1 1 inch square throughout from top to bottom. These sizes are, of course, for trees ; they should be firmly set in the ground at a distance of from 12 inches to 15 inches apart, and their height above ground should be from 3 feet 6 inches to 5 feet, according to position and circum- stances. It is not desirable that an es- palier-trained tree should be more than 5 feet in height, and possibly many would consider this too high. Apples and pears are the trees that are most generally trained in this fashion. Espalier training is well adapted for gooseberries and currants. Stakes about I inch in diameter should be used, and these should be set in the soil about 4 inches apart, and driven in so that all may be of the same height, say, from 3 feet to 3 feet 6 inches above the soil. When the tops are level, as they should be, additional stability may be imparted to them by nailing pantile laths, I inch wide and \ inch thick, along the tops from end to end. Espalier Training. Fruit-trees of almost all kinds— especi- ally apples, pears, (fee.— may be trained on the espalier system — that is to say, on a row ESPALIERS. 164 EUCOMIS. of vertical stakes — or on trellis. In some situations this kind of training is not only extremely neat, but possesses peculiar advantages. The trees are more fully exposed to the influence of light and air, and in small gardens it is useful on account of the little space which the trees occupy, and because they will bear fruit earlier than when left as standards. The training of jespalier is very simple. When the trees are young, one shoot must be trained per- pendicularly and two others horizontally, one on each side ; the two last must not be shortened, but the perpendicular shoot is to be shortened in the following year to three good buds ; two of which are to form new side branches, and the other a leader as before, and so on every year, till the trees have attained the desired size : from 6 inches to 9 inches is about the proper distance between the horizontal branches. Trellises are best made of wjod (iron causes canker in the trees), and young larch — the thinnings of the plantation — is the best wood for the purpose. Espalier Training for Goose- berries. The espalier system, namely, training on rows of stakes, is one of the very best that can be adopted for gooseberries, because the fruit on trees grown in this manner is better exposed to the influences of light and air than when grown on bushes, and can be manipulated and thinned all the more easily by picking in a green state. The mode of training is very easy but somewhat different to that adopted in the case of fruit trees. Rough stakes are driven into the ground at the distance of about 3 inches or 4 inches apart, and connected at top with a capping of the same. Two lateral branches are then led from the main stem, one in one direction, and the other in the opposite direction, from these laterals, which should be close to the ground, branches are led upwards vertically, a branch on each stake. Goose- berries and currants, trained on this prin- ciple, should be planted about 4 feet to 5 feet apart, and lateral boughs first trained along the bottom in each direction, from which vertical boughs should be carried up the stakes from the laterals. Far finer fruit can be produced in this manner than on the bush system, and it is a more handy way of bordering pieces of garden ground than by apple and pear-trees. Espalier Training for Roses. Roses, as espaliers, may be made to assume a striking feature in the economy of an ornamental rose-garden. The es- paliers should be formed of galvanised iron, 5 feet °r s° high» and of propor- tionate width. Hurdles of this material, if the bars be close enough, will answer very well j- but the bars should not be more than 6 inches apart. This form of rose-training is especially suitable for varieties with weak footstalks, notably Marechal Kiel. The plants used should be of strong-growing habit, on their own roots or the Manetti, and planted upon the southern aspect, or as near to that as pos- sible. Intertwine and mix the branches as thickly as may be, and tie them to the cross-bars with wire or tarred string. To construct a rose-terrace, let such espaliers as described above form the back rows of sloping beds ; an ascent may thus be charmingly laid out in stages, with path and terrace alternately to the level ground. Any of the so-called climbing roses may be utilised for this purpose. EllCO'inis (not. ord. Lilia'cese). A very ornamental half-hardy bulb, with curious turf-crowned spikes of flowers. They do well in any good garden soil, and, like all bulbs, are increased by offsets from the paient bu}b. Eul.EMA. EUPHORBIA. Euge'nia (nat. ord. Myrta'ceae). The name of some highly ornamental greenhouse evergreen trees of considerable beauty, bearing for the most part white flowers. They require a compost of loam and peat. Eulalia (nit. ord. Graminese). An ornamental hardy grass resembling ribbon-grass in some respects, but slighter in every respect and of not so strong a growth. They are suitable for borders and will also thrive in conservatories and cool houses, in large pots or tubs. Euonymus (not. oni. Alastrinse). A well-known garden tree, otherwise called the Spindle Tree. There are many varieties, numbering among them shrubs suitable even for fences, having glossy leaves either wholly green or variegated. The flowers are small and insignificant. Propagation is effected by cuttings taken from last year's growth in the autumn, and set in rich loam and sand. Euphor'bia (nat. ord. Euphorbla'ceae). Plants of this name are mostly very ornamental, warm greenhouse evergreen shrubs, For bouquets, vases, or head-dresses, Euphorbia jacquiniaflora, otherwise E. fulgens, is one of the finest flowers in existence ; one of its fine spikes of orange- scarlet blossoms, 1 8 inches long, is a matchless wreath at once. Few plants are more easily propagated and grown than the euphorbia and the poinsettia, which is similar in character. Both can be had in flower from October to March. Their treatment is singularly easy and simple, and may be described briefly as follows : — Propagation.— Suppose the plants flower in December, cut them down to within three eyes of the old wood at the end of January. Put in as many cuttings as may be required, in lengths of from 4 inches to 6 inches long. They will strike in any vinery or house at work without shading or any attention whatever, except watering. When rooted, pot singly in 48-sized pots, and return to the same house or a pit with bottom heat. If large plants are wanted, they grow best with the latter treatment. When the cutting has made 6 inches of wood, stop it, and sometimes it will break into three shoots ; and this is quite enough for one-year-old plants. The plants will flower in 8 -inch pots, and if they have three good branches, terminating in a whorl of scarlet nearly a foot across, the grower will, or ought to be, more than satisfied. Large Plant 's ', How to grow. — To obtain plants of almost any magnitude, allow the old plants to continue rather dry for six weeks after having cut them down ; then water and plunge in bottom heat to break freely. Leave a dozen shoots, and thin off all beyond that, and insert them as cuttings if wanted, to be treated as above. When these shoots are 2 inches long, shake out the plants, and repot in pots that will just hold the roots, in a compost con- sisting of equal parts leaf mould, loam. EVERGREENS. 1 66 EYED NAILS. ».ncl peat, with a colouring of sand. As soon as these pots are filled with roots, shift into 12- or 8-sized pots, and return them to the same quarters. By maintain- ing a bottom and surface heat from 60° to 70°, syringing twice or thrice a day, and watering carefully, they may be grown to any size you please. If you start them early, the young shoots may also be stopped, and two dozen flowering shoots secured instead of one. But such a plant well grown would require half an ordinary- sized house to hold it ; and, perhaps, plants with three to six blooms are the most beautiful, and certainly the most convenient. Management of the Euphorbia. — The propagation and culture of the E. jacquiniceflora and poinsettia are similar. The euphorbia possesses, however, one peculiarity in the extreme, which the other also has in a modified form. "When a young shoot of the euphorbia is stopped, it is seldom that more than a single bud on the stopped shoot will break. By stop- ping, nothing is gained in advance, there- fore, but much time is lost. When bushy plants are desired, from three to a dozen cuttings should be placed in one pot, and grown on into plants without being sepa- rated. Cut plants of euphorbia and poinsettia may be treated in exactly the same way ; but the euphorbias do not break so freely. Evergreens. Few things afford stronger indications of the necessity of renovation and reform in a garden than the state of the evergreens and hedges. These are so easily and so insensibly suffered to grow wild, and are so seriously injured by want of care and the proper use of the knife, that neglect cannot go on very long without its ill con- sequences becoming manifest. Portugal laurels and many other evergreens may be cut in ; but with the common laurel it is a saving of time to cut it down at once ; so also with the arbutus and sweet bay. Privet, and holly hedges, which from years of neglect are found to be occupying too much space, must be cut in. The former may often be cut down with advantage to within a few inches of the ground, and the latter cut close on all sides to the single stems. In a few years new and fresh wood will fill up all vacant spaces, provided the soil is enriched and kept free from weeds. Eyed Nails- In stone walls — perhaps in brick walls also — copper or iron nails with eyes should be let into the interstices, to tie down the branches of the fruit / f~\ trees, taking care that they are * let in with the eye close to the wall ; for the radiation of heat from the wall is in proportion to its distance, and the heat which is one degree a foot off the wall, is a hundred and forty- four when in contact with it. The advantage of the eyed nails consists in preserving the wall. EYEDNAIU Thread dipped in pyroligneous acid, or flexible wire, may be use^for the purpose of tying. This mode of fastening is much neater than shreds and nails. Loitering in my fernery on a bummer day, Gladdened by its greenery I while the time awuy ; Fountain-sprinkled, cool retreat. Refuge from old Sol's fierce heat, Pleasant bower for leisure hour, enter when yon may. ANON. ABIA'NA (««/. ord. Solana'ceae). A handsome evergreen greenhouse shrub of easy culture, somewhat resem- bling the heath in bloom and habit. It succeeds best in sandy peat and when planted against a wall. It is almost hardy, but requires protection in cold, frosty weather, especially in the midland and northern counties. Propa- gation is effected by inserting cuttings of young shoots in sandy soil under a cold frame in April or May. One of the best known is Fabiana imbricata, with white flowers attaining a height of from 2 to 3 feet. Pabri'cia (not. ord. Myrta'cese). An exceedingly ornamental conservatory shrub, with graceful delicate drooping foliage, and very beautiful star-like flowers. It is now included among the Leptosper- mums. It succeeds best in sandy peat and loam, and is propagated by seeds sown in gentle heat in May, or by cuttings in sandy soil under a cold frame in the same month. The best known is Fabricia glauca, 6 feet in height, and yielding a profusion of white flowers. Fan or Palmette Training. This system of training is the form most I commonly exhibited on garden walls, on 167 FAN OR PALMETTE TRAINING. 168 FAN OR PALMETTE TRAINING. wires strained on posts, and on rows of stakes in the same straight line, usually spoken of in this country as espaliers, although this term is applied by the FIG. I. — PALMETTE OK FAN BEFORE COM- MENCEMENT OF TRAINING. French to trees trained on any plane sur- face, whether it be solid, as in the case of the wall, or a skeleton surface only, as with strained wires and slakes in rows. After j the pyramid form, there is no better mode j of training apples in gardens, as the apple- j tree is usually impatient of training against : a wall. The stakes, whether rough from j the coppice or hedgerow, with the bark on, or of timber I inch square, well planed up and painted, are driven into the ground at equal distances, and capped or not at pleasure by a horizontal rail at the top to steady them. The tree is planted in the centre of the space allotted to it, and it is then trained in the way about to be de- scribed, so that lateral branches may be induced to run at regular intervals in hori- zontal lines at right angles to the stem. The same style of horizontal training is often adapted for pear-trees on walls and on the sides of buildings. In the Palmette or Fan system, what- ever may be the direction that the branches are ultimately compelled to assume, the system of training to be carried out in the infancy of the tree, so to speak, is the same. The tree is subjected to this train- ing when it has attained a central stem and two lateral branches, as in Fig. I. In the autumn or winter pruning of the follow- ing year, the two side branches are trained horizontally, as in Fig. 2, and pruned back to about two-thirds of their length, with a bud immediately below the cut. The stem itself is pruned back to about 18 inches above the side branches, taking care that there are three buds immediately below the cut — one on each side, well placed, and a third in front to continue the stem. With the fall of the leaf in the following year the tree will be as represented in Fig. 3, with two horizontal shoots, a central stem, and two other untrained side shoots. When the pruning season arrives, the same pro- cess of cutting back takes place, each of the new side shoots being cut back to two- thirds of its length, the two lower branches to two-thirds of the year's growth, and the stem to within 18 inches of the second pair of laterals, leaving three well-placed buds immediately below, as before, to continue a third pair of side branches and the stem. It will be seen at once that this is the treatment required to induce the horizontal growth for apples and pears for walls and FIG. 2. — FIRST PRUNING OF PALMETTE OR FAN. espaliers, as shown in Fig. 4, while Fig. 2 represents the commencement of a tree trained on the fan system, with this ex- ception, that the lowermost branches on FAN OR PALMETTE TRAINING. 169 FAN OR PALMETTE TRAINING. each side should have a direction slightly inclined to the stem, and not perfectly horizontal. Fan or Palincltc Training^ Verrier'' s: — A clever modification of the palmette or KIG. 3. — PALMETTE IN SECOND YEAR. fan form was introduced by M. Verrier, the manager of the fruit farm at Saulsaye, in France, whose name was given to it. With the fifth year's growth the lower side branches will have attained as much hori- zontal extension on the wall or espalier as M. Verrier felt disposed to give them. When he had nailed the branches to the wall, or tied them to the trellis, as the case might be, he gave the end of each termi- nal shoot a gentle curve upwards. Con- tinuing the usual annual process of cutting back after each year's growth, in some eleven years from the graft the tree will have covered a wall 12 feet or 14 feet high and 6 feet on each side of the stem ; each side shoot, when it is within 18 inches of the one immediately below it, receiving an upward direction, until the tree has re- ceived the form shown in Fig. 5. The stem, as well as the side shoots, having reached the top of the wall, the extremities of the branches are pruned back every year to about 1 8 inches below the coping, in order to leave room for the development of the terminal bud, which is necessary to draw the sap upwards for the nourishment of the fruit. After 16 or 18 years a healthy tree, properly trained on this system, pre- sents a surface of upwards of 60 square feet of young fruit -bearing wood. The sym- metry of the tree is pleasant to look at, and it is certainly admirably balanced for vegetation, and consequently for fruit bearing. One objection to this peculiar modifica- tion of the fan system is that the buds do not always occur at the right spot for pro- jecting new side shoots. When this is the case, the process of shield budding is had recourse to, in August. In other respects, the same principle of pruning is adopted as in pyramid- trained trees, the only modifi- ! cation being the removal of the spurs thrown out between the tree and the wall. ] Another objection to the system is the time which must elapse before the wall is covered ; but this is inseparable from any mode of growing apples and pears on walls, and may be met by planting vines between each, running a central rod of the vine to I the top of the wall, as shown in the ac- | companying illustration ; stopping it there j for the first year, and carrying a shoot on ! each side under the coping, with descend- ! ing rods at intervals, calculated not to | interfere with the side shoots of the pear- i tree. The gain, however, if it be gain at ! all, is more than counterbalanced by the FIG. 4. — PRUNING OF PALMETTE YEAR. ugliness of the arrangement and its con- trariety to nature in all trees except those of the " weeping " class, such as the weep- ing ash and the weeping willow, in forcing FENCES. 170 FENCES. the branches into a downward position and berries may be constructed of various compelling the sap to travel to the ex- materials and of many different patterns. Iremities in a downward direction. And,1 At one time rustic fences were much besides this, if the vine is allowed to used for separating the park from the remain after the shoots of the pear reach nearly to the coping, the space becomes] FIG. 5« — COMBINATION OK VINE AN1> 1'EAR GROWN ON VERRIEK'S SYSTEM. too crowded, as may be seen from the illus- tration. There is, however, small chance of the plan being adopted to any extent in this country, because vine growing on un- protected walls is by no means remunera- tive from any point of view. Fences. The efficient division of garden ground from that which surrounds it is a matter of the utmost importance, as it is neces- sary to protect it as much as possible from the incursions and raids of fowls, and indeed poultry of all kinds, and rabbits. This may be attained if the fence is solid in itself, or at all events composed of rails or poles sufficiently close together to prevent the ingress o the larger birds. Ducks do the least damage in a garden, and their presence therein may even be regarded as bene- ficial at all times except seed-time, be- cause they clear away all slugs and shell-less pests of that description, but they will flatten seed-beds and harden the surface under the pressure of their wide webbed feet. Let us now consider fencing from a general point of view. Fences for flower-gardens and shrub- FIG. 1.— IJWAKK FENCE IN RUSTIC TKELLIS WORK. pleasure ground. While they are among the most beautiful, they are certainly the most expensive of all fences. They may still be used to separate one part of the grounds from another — the rabbit-proof FIG 2. — DWARF FENCE IN RUSTIC MOSAIC WORK. ;arden from the outside pleasure ground — where labour and expense are no object. The designs given in Figs. I and 2 are FENCES. 171 FENCES. simple, but pretty, and they can be made of hazel, larch, spruce, and indeed any young trees. The bark should always be left on, and the more numerous and rougher the knots, the more rustic the fence will be. Fig. I represents a fence f FIG. 3.— WIRE FENCE. in rustic trellis-work. The bars of which it is formed should be slightly notched one into another at the points in which they cross, so that they may have a better bearing one against another and a firmer holding than round sticks could possibly have if nailed together without notching. For the rustic mosaic work shown in Fig. 2, sticks of hazel, maple, willow, cherry, &c., must be sawn in sunder lengthways, and then cut into pieces as required to form the mosaic. These pieces must be nailed against a backing of stout boards. It is more suitable for summer houses, window boxes, &c., than for fencing. Wire fences look better than these, and their patterns and prices are endlessly varied, to suit the means and tastes of all. The patterns shown in Figs. 3 and 4 look as well as any. Walls are occasionally introduce^ into flower gardens, either for the shelter they afford in bleak localities, their architectural effect near dwelling- houses, or the culture of the more tender plants in the open air. In all such cases they should be formed of the best materials, and either panelled or rendered otherwise ornamental. They should seldom be more than 10 or less than 6 feet high, although those who have seen the enormous magnolia walls at White Knights Park, near Reading, will feel inclined to double the maximum given. As a rule, however, the elevations named will look best and be most suitable for cultural purposes. It would be worth going a hundred miles to see a wall 6 feet high and 50 yards long, furnished with a collection of tea roses in full bloom. If the wall were furnished with a coping projecting 4 inches, so con- structed as to prevent the drip of water, and the roses were slightly covered in winter with spruce branches, and sheltered FIG. 4. — WIRE FENCE. with canvas covering from early spring frosts, such a sight might be realised, and a wall affording alike shelter and fence on one side become an object of surpassing loveliness on the other. FENNEL. 172 FERN CASES. Fennel. Fennel may be raised from seed in April or May, The seed should be covered lightly with fine mould, and, when the plants are strong enough, they may be set out in a bed about a foot apart. A good bed of fennel will last for years ; but to insure fine leaves, the flower-stalks should always be cut oft" as soon as they appear, so as never to ripen seed. Fern Cases. In planting fern cases, it is best to choose sorts of very dwarf, compact habit. This will allow for a little drawing up of the fronds from confinement. A mixture of loam, leaf-mould, and sand will be best for them to grow in ; but it should be liberally mixed up with broken pieces of sandstone, or broken flowerpots, and small pieces of charcoal. These will hold a supply of moisture without stagnating ; but water should not remain unabsorbed, so that the cases must be provided with suitable drainage ; and although the con- finement of the case will agree with many ferns, yet some ventilation is necessary to prevent damp and mouldiness, otherwise every frond or dead piece of leaf that touches the glass will cause a general decay. Fernery, Indoor. — The construction of the indoor fernery is similar to that of any glazed structure, but its position should be exactly opposite to that of the conserva- tory or greenhouse — that is to say, it should front to the north, north-east, or north-west, while the frontage of the greenhouse should be to the south, south- east, or south-west. In the arrangement of the interior, too, there is a marked difference, the greenhouse being furnished with shelves and stages at various heights for the support of the plants, made, generally speaking, of laths or battens, and the fernery with brackets, pockets, platforms, and terraces, to which a rustic appearance is imparted by giving these structures, large and small, an ornamental facing of " virgin cork," as this material is generally called, and such forms as may be best calculated to set off the beauty of the foliage of the ferns that are placed in them. Virgin cork may be obtained of most nurserymen and seedsmen at about 3d. per lb., or in bales of 56 Ib. from us. to I2s. 6d. per bale, 112 lb. from 2os to 255. Fernery, Outdoor. — The fernery out of doors must be stocked exclusively with hardy British and exotic ferns. Of these none will bear the light and heat of the summer sun in full force, and a situation should be chosen for it which is shady and near water, or in which water can be supplied by artificial means. By this it must not be taken for granted that any moist, dank spot will do for ferns ; on the contrary, they like good drainage as well as shade and moisture, and efficient drainage should always be provided. The moisture in which they most delight is a humid atmosphere, and a moisture cun- ningly created by artificial means, and consisting of drips and splashes that fall FERN CASES. 173 FERN CASES. in almost infinitesimal quantities on the fronds and sustain their verdure unim- paired. Position. — A shady bank, or cool spot on the edge of a pond or the brink of a rivulet, is a good position for an outdoor fernery, and admits of treatment by the aid of a few boulders and stones, and even clinkers or masses of vitrified brick, which produce an effect more closely akin to nature than can be attained when the structure is due entirely to art. Failing such positions in gardens and back yards, the best must be done by artificial means, and even under such conditions a fernery that is satisfactory to the eye and suitable in every respect for the plants that are to be placed in it, is by no means difficult to attain or troublesome to manage, provided that the primary requisites of coolness, shade, and moisture are obtainable. Construction. — When a position that requires little assistance from art can be obtained — such as a cool, shady nook near water, or by a running stream — all that is necessary is to dispose some masses of stone, roots of trees, burrs, &c., in such a manner that they may be partly embedded in the soil, and afford corners, as it were, here and there, in which various kinds of ferns can be judiciously located with regard to their respective habits and appearance and the effect that each is designed to produce. In making a piece of rockwork for ferns, or otherwise build- inga. fernery, so to speak, supposing that the work is done on the level or a little below the level of the ground, as may be the case when the upper part of the soil is removed to furnish part of the material for the structure, the first thing to be done is to provide for thorough drainage below the surface by excavating, and filling up the hollow thus formed with brickbats, stones, and other materials which lie together in such a manner as to have interstices of various sizes between them, and thus afford ample room for the escnpe of moisture from the structure above and its absorption by the soil below. If economy with regard to soil is necessary, a heap of the same material may be thrown up on which to place the compost in which ferns will best thrive, which may be made of good garden soil mixed with leaf mould, some good loam, and a fair proportion of light fibrous peat and sand. Then on the surface of the bank thus formed place stones of various kinds, some on the soil itself and others half buried in it, with roots of old trees, flints, clinkers, &c., disposed so as to leave crevices here and there in which the ferns may be planted. Planting. — The fernery, or rockery, being ready for the reception of the plants, put the roots into the crevices provided for them, keeping the crown just above the soil, and pressing the earth firmly about the roots. If the bank of earth below the stones, &c., has been of necessity made of garden earth alone, introduce a liberal quantity of compost of yellow loam, peat, and sand into holes made in the soil to receive it before planting the ferns. Some ferns require a greater depth of soil than others, and some again, such as the Common Poly- pody and Hart's-tongue Fern, will grow admirably on a wall, which shows that they require but a minimum of soil in which to root. In planting ferns, the taller sorts should be placed at the back of the bank, those of medium height in the centre, and the dwarf varieties in front. Ferns suitable for Outdoor Culture. — The following will afford a list of ferns suitable for outdoor culture, all of which may be purchased at rates ranging from 2d. 10 6d. each. The ordinary name is appended in most cases, and the letters B, C, F, indicate the position in which FERN CASES. 174 FERN CASES. the ferns should be placed in the fernery, namely, back, centre, or front. The names of exotic ferns, chiefly of North American origin, are placed in italics : — C. Allosorus crispus Parsley Fern. — Aspidium cristatnm , , Noveboracense ,) thelypterioides F. Asplenium adian- tum nigrum F. ,, ruta muraria . . . F. ,. trichomanes . F. „ thelypterioides . . F. ,, viride... C. Athyrium filix fce- mina C. „ Michauxii C. Blechnum Spicant F. Botrychiumlunaria F. Ceterach officina- rum .Black Maidenhair Spleenwort. .Rue Fern. .Common Maidenhair Spleenwort. .Green-stemmed Spleen- wort. .Lady Fern (Fig. i). .Hard Fern. , Moonwort. Scaly Spleenwort. FIG. I. — ATHYRIUM KILIX FCEMINA, OR LADY FERN. F. Cystopteris fragilis . . Bladder Fern. F. „ bulb if era.. B. Lastrea aemuia Hay-scented Fern. C. B. C. C. C. C. atrata dilatata. . . . .'.Broad Buckler Fern. filix mas . . . . Male Fern. intermedia . marginals . montana . . . .Mountain Buckljr Fern. rigida . . . Rigid Buckler Fern. Sieboldii C. ,, spinulosa Spiny Buckler Fern. C. ,, thelypteris . .Marsh Fern. C. ,, varia — Onoclea sensibilis (Fig. 2>. , B. Osmunda regalis Royal Fern (Fig. 3). F. Phegopteris hexogonoptcra. F. ,, polypodioldfs . . * F. ,, dryopteris Oak Fern. F. , , phegopteri Beech Fern. F. ,, Robertianum. .Limestone Polypody. F. , , vulgare Common Polypody (Fig. 4). B Polystichum ncrostichoides. B, ,, aculeatum Hard Prickly Shield Fern. B. Polystich. angulare. .Soft Prickly Shield Fern. B. ,, ,, proliferum B. ,, sestoum FIG. 2. — ONOCLEA SENSIBILIS. B. Pteris aquilina Bracken. C. Scolopendrium vul- gare Hart's-tongue Fern (Fig. 5). Ferns, Aspect and Shelter for.— Ferns, as a general rule, require shade and moisture, and they will therefore grow, and may be cultivated with success, in many a dark and comparatively gloomy situation in which flowering plants will FIG. 3.— OSMUNDA REGALIS, OR ROYAL FERN. not thrive. For an indoor fernery, for example, a north aspect is suitable ; while for the majority of plants, whose blossom FERN CASES. 175 FERN CASES. constitute their chief charm, and which are chiefly in favour during the season in which they are in bloom, it would be objectionable. In the constitution of ferns FIG. 4.— I'HECoOi'TEKIS VULGARE, OR COMMON POLYPODY. there is as much difference as in the con- stitution of flowering plants — that is to say, some ferns, being thoroughly hardy, will do well out of doors without the slightest protection ; others, again, require shelter, either in a cold greenhouse in which no artificial heat is introduced in the winter season, or a cool greenhouse in which artificial heat is merely utilised for the exclusion of frost ; a third class is formed of stove or hothouse ferns, which require heat, and such treatment as may assimilate the conditions under which they are grown as closely as possible to those under which they flourish in their native climes. Ferns, Filmy. — These ferns, which are extremely beautiful in form, are not suit- able for outdoor culture, but should be grown under a bell-glass or in a Wardian case in a room or greenhouse. The varieties most commonly grown are Hyme- nophyllum Tunbridgense, H. linilaterak, and Trichomanes radicans. " They should be grown," says Mr. Gill, "in seed-pans well drained, with good leaf mould, a little loam, and nearly half its bulk of small broken sandstone or soft bricks. The mould should be raLed, using little crooks to peg the fern on the mould firmly, leaving room round the sides for the bell- glass on the inside of the pan. Some prefer wood to grow them on, but wood decays, and the whole mass of ferns arc disturbed. They require very little water over the fronds, sufficient only to clean them, keeping the glass off for a time to dry the fronds, or they will turn black. Should the fronds look dry or shrivelled at any time, plunge the seed-pan in water, letting it stand till soaked." Ferns, Potting. — When ferns are grown in pots or boxes, care should be taken that the drainage is perfect, and for this pur- pose a layer of broken potsherds, fragments of brick, and pieces of porous stone should be placed at the bottom, and on this the soil or compost, which should consist of leaf mould, sandy loam, fibrous peat, and silver sand, the first three ingredients being taken in equal proportions, and sufficient of the last named to make its presence apparent through the entire mass when mixed. With the compost should be mixed small lumps of crumbling sand- stone or decaying brick, which tends to keep the soil open, and affords a substance G. 5. — SCOLOPENDRIUM VULGARE. to which the rootlets of the fern can cling. All ferns should be potted firmly, and the earth well pressed about the roots just below the crown. FERNS. 176 FIGS. ferns, Raising from Seed. — Mixed varieties of fern seed may be obtained from Messis. W. and J. Birkenhead, Fern Nursery- Sale, at is., 2s. 6d., and 55. per packet. The seeds of ferns, or spores, as thev -if. commonly called, are contained in sv-oie cases on the under part of the froniljv, which are green at first, but ultimately turn to a brown colour when ripe. In some ferns the spores, have the appearance and shape of long narrow strips ; in others they are circular, and look like spots. When the spore cases are nearly ready to burst, the fronds should be cut off and laid on paper, on which the spores will be received when they fall out. Fern spores should be sown on the surface of a compost of sand and loam firmly pressed together at the top, and made moist throughout. A piece of glass should be placed over the top of the pot, and the pot itself placed in a cool and shady place, and water should be kept in the saucer in which it stands, to ensure the continuance of a moist condition for the soil. When the young plants show themselves, air may be given by raising but not removing the glass, and when large enough transplant them into small pots. Ferns, Watering. — All ferns, whether within doors or out of doors, require their foliage to be kept moist ; and some, indeed, such as the Royal Fern (Osmunda regalis\ will thrive best when exposed to the constant splash of falling water. To afford the proper amount of moisture by artificial means, the best thing that can be done is to syringe them with a syringe having the finest possible rose, from which the water will issue in the form of spray. This mode oi watering the fronds should be resorted to both in the open air and in the glazed fernery. With regard to water- i ig the roots, if the surface soil has a dry aspect, it will be necessary to give water. When in pots, the usual test of knocking the pot sharply with a piece of wood may be applied. If the sound is dead and dull, it may then be assumed that the soil is sufficiently moist, but if it be hollow and tolerably resonant, it must be taken to indicate that the ball of earth in which the roots are is getting dry and requires water. Figs. Almost any well-drained soil will suit the fig-tree when grown in the open air. Care, however, must be taken that it is not too lich, for if so, the tree will not produce fruit. Three sorts of figs are usually grown — the Brown Turkey, Brunswick, and Black Ischia : all require a wall and a sunny situation. The best mode of train- ing is perpendicular. Fix to the wall as many permanent leaders as are required at from 10 inches to 15 inches apart ; get rid of all unnecessary wood by disbudding, and stop the fruit-bearing shoots at the end of August or beginning of September, ac- cording to the habit of the tree and the nature of the season. This operation is performed by merely pinching off or squeez- ing flat the terminal growing-point. This stopping, the object of which is to induce the formation of fruit for the ensuing sea- son, is a matter of much nicety. A too early stopping with most trees will cause a too early development of fruit, the con- sequence of which will be that it will not stand through the frost of winter. The fruit for next year must not be much larger than a pea when winter sets in. Figs under glass may be started at 50° in February. Maintain moist atmosphere, water copiously, remove terminal buds of young shoots. Figs, List of. Of the different varieties in cultivation the following, perhaps, are the most useful : — NARCISSUS. FILBERTS. 177 FLORISTS' FLOWER-GARDEN. Black Ischia.' Brown Ischia, White Ischia.* Brown Turkey, (a) Marseilles White, (i) D'Agen. Osborne's Prolific.(3) Castle Kennedy. (4) Malta.* Colde Signora Bianca. Gross Monstreuse. St. John's.* Of these the varieties marked with a star force readily and are therefore good under glass. The Brown Turkey is the finest for outdoor culture ; Osborne's Prolific is ex- cellent for pot culture and Castle Kennedy is extremely hardy. Filberts. The trees may be introduced into orchards, shrubberies, plantations, or hedgerows. Planted close to each other, they form valuable screens or shelter in exposed situations. A filbert-walk is a great addition to any garden. Filberts are not merely ornamental but profitable. They will thrive almost anywhere, and are much improved by pruning. The following list of filberts and cob nuts is taken from the catalogue of Mr. Cooper, F.R.H.S., Calcot Gardens, Read- ing, who is a specialist in this class of fruit :— i. Webb's Prize Cob Filbert. 2. Emperor Cob. 3. Improved Cos- ford Cob. 4. New Cob Davi- ana. 5. Prolific Close Head Filbert. 6. Red Skinned Fil- bert. 7. White Skinned Filbert 8. Eugenie. 9. M a r q u i s of Lome. 10. Princess Royal, u. Garibaldi. 12. Kentish Cob. 13. Duke of Edin- burgh. 14. Duchess of Edin- burgh. 15. The Shah. 16. Cannon Bal. Firs. Of the genus Abies, the fir, Abies excelsa, A. grandis, A. nobilis, A. Nordmanniana, and the Spanish Silver Fir, A. Pimapo, are all eminently noble. The last-named variety, indeed, is a particularly handsome tree, having its numerous branches arranged in whorls in the most perfect order : as a single tree upon a lawn, nothing can sur- pass it, and in its own country, Spain, it attains a height of 70 °r 80 feet. Again, there is A. Douglasiit the most distinct and beautiful variety ever introduced. It was discovered by, and named after, the persevering explorer whose name it bears, upon whose authority it is stated to attain the great height of 250 feet, and 12 feet diameter at base. It is thoroughly hardy, of sound constitution, and very rapid in growth. Independent of its great attrac- tions as a highly ornamental tree, its value as timber can scarcely be estimated ; it is fine-grained, elastic, strong, heavy, and free from knots, easily wrought, and capable of receiving a high polish, very durable and not subject to split. Plies. See Wasps and Flies. Florists' Plower-Garden. The florist's flower-garden is usually planted in formal and rather stiff-looking beds, the flowers in right lines, those of dwarf habit occupying the outsides of the beds, with the taller sorts in the centre. The garden itself should be very near to the dwelling of any one who has charge of it, for no plants require greater attention to grow them properly ; they need all the air that can possibly be given to them, while a slight frost coming suddenly on after a warm April day — above all, heavy storms of rain, a hailstorm, or even a boisterous wind — will be destructive to many of them. Heat is nearly as injurious. They should only meet the morning and evening sun : a shade of light calico for an hour before and after noon, during the flowering sea- son, will much prolong their bloom. The bed for the reception of auriculas, polyanthuses, carnations, and flowers of similar habit grown in pots, should be placed in an open airy situation, where FLORISTS' FLOWER-GARDEN. 178 FLORISTS' FLOWERS. they can readily receive shelter from rain and from a too ardent sun. A useful bed or stage for the reception of these may be prepared by laying down about six inches of coal -ashes upon the natural soil, over which a platform should be made by a flooring of square tiles, closely fitting into each other. Over this are to be laid seven rows of bricks, equi- distant from each other ; and on these, at regulated distances, the pots may be ranged after the operation of potting has been per- formed in May. Shelter and shade can be provided in the following manner : — A row of strong stakes, sufficiently close together to sup- port a top rail without interfering materially with the pots which occupy the centre of the bed. These stakes should be 6 feet high, and 5 inches by 4 inches in size, and should be driven at least 20 inches into the solid soil ; the top rail being sufficiently strong to receive and support the shutters. A similar row of stakes, with top rail, must be driven on each side of the bed, and about 2$ feet from it. Three inches on each side of the bed there should be another row of 6 stakes of equal strength, but only 1 8 inches above the ground ; the top being notched in the form of the lettei V- The use of these stakes will be obvious ; they are to receive and support the lower end of the shutters— the central top rail when closed ; and the outside rails are to receive and support them when it is desired to throw them open. The shutters, each 4 yards long and 3 feet wide, when closed, form a span-roofed pit open at the sides, three posts supporting each shutter. They are made with feather- edged inch deal, forming a solid frame ; me centre may be deal, felt, or any material impervious to heavy rains ; if of glass, there should be an arrangement for shading with calico, or some other material ; and the frames should lap one over the other at the sides, and meet at a proper angle at the top, so as to form a ridge. Florists' Flowers. The flowers generally known as florists' flowers comprise the dahlia, hollyhock, chrysanthemum, tulip, polyanthus, auri- cula, heartsease or pansy, ranunculus, the anemone, carnation, pink, picotee, hya- cinth, &c., &c., for florists have largely increased the objects of their care ; but the present list may be taken as including all which can properly be called florist's flowers. Florists' flowers, as we see them in their present state of cultivation, prove how im- mense is the field which Nature lays open to reward the industry and intelligence of man. Who can place the different flowers which have passed under the florist's hand for cultivation side by side with their wild originals without being struck with wonder at the almost marvellous results which fol- low from the ingrafting of nature and art ? Compare the pansies of some of our recent prize-shows with the wild heartsease of the woods, and it is hardly possible to realise the idea that the two stand to each other in any sort of genealogical relationship ; and the same is true of pinks, and hya- cinths, and anemones. Nor, indeed, is the contrast yet at its height, for every year fresh progress is being made in symmetry, in richness and variety of colouring, or in size. Look at the dahlias and chrysanthe- mums of the present day, and think what were considered good flowers, and actually called forth admiration, some twenty years ago. The different varieties which come under the head of florists' flowers are so rich in beauty that most persons take delight in them. Indeed it is quite im- possible for a garden to be really gay with- out its share of them, and with them any garden may be gay at all seasons, except in the depth of winter. Even as the year FLOWER CULTURE. 179 FLOWER CULTURE. declines — late in the autumn months, though tulips, and carnations, and auri- culas, and ranunculus, and hyacinths, &c. &c., are at rest, chrysanthemums and dah- lias are in their glory ; and these continue to enliven our gardens till an envying frost cuts them off. At all seasons of the year there is something to be done with florists1 flowers, and the reader will find notices of them under each head. Instructions also for the management of a winter flower garden will be found on page 569, for those possessed of a greenhouse. Flower Culture. Preparation of Ground. — Broadly speak- ing, there is not so much difference in the routine to be followed in the culture of different kinds of flowers as may be imagined by those who are unaccustomed to garden work. The preparation of the soil by mechanical means is in all cases the same ; if this were not so, and if every kind of flower that grows required different treatment, it would be necessary for every amateur or grower, in a small way, to con- fine his attention to two or three special sorts, or to give up gardening altogether, and leave it to those who had time, leisure, money, and space to deal with it in its entirety. Happily, however, this is not the case, for generally plants are grouped into large sections or classes, and the plants that belong to each section will grow together, under the same conditions, sub- ject only to some slight modifications that are produced by artificial means. That is to say, when the soil has been well prepared for the reception of plants by digging, trenching, draining, when and where necessary, all that can be done is to modify it for the plants which ate to be grown in it by the addition of manures, natural and artificial, sand, lime, &c., and thus bring it as nearly as possible to the conditions under which plants ^row and flourish in their native habitats, or under which e> xnerience has shown that thev thrive and flourish in the greatest luxuriance. Classification of Flowering Plants* — If, then, we regard the culture of flowers from this point of view, namely, that as regards the management of each great class the system to be pursued is the same for all, and that it is only in some special cases that any departure from the general routine is necessary, it is manifest that our labours will be greatly simplified, and that we shall be better able to turn them to good account when we find and feel that we have to deal with plants broadly and in masses, special treatment being reserved for a few indi- vidual sorts only. A few moments' con- sideration will help us to see how easy it is to arrive at the culture of plants in classes, by looking at their nature and terms of existence. First of all, flowering plants grown in gardens — no reference is now being made to shrubs, which have been dealt with in the preceding chapter— are (i) ANNUALS, (2) BIENNIALS, and (3) PERENNIALS. To one or other of these three great classes every plant must belong. Culture influenced by Character and Class. — We must look, then, at the culture of plants, first of all, with reference to their character and as belonging to the class to which each belongs. We know that some plants are possessed of greater powers of endurance and vitality than others, and thus it is that ANNUALS are regarded as being ranked in two divisions, Hardy and Half-hardy; BIENNIALS admitting of the same separation. Passing on to PER- ENNIALS, we know that there are two sorts, namely, those which are visible above ground, even during the hardest winter, and which do not die down to the ground in autumn and throw up fresh flower stalks in the spring, and those which die down after flowering to grow again when the time of rest is ovpr, and Nature call'; oo FLOWER CULTURE. 1 80 FLOWERING GRASSES. them once more to exhibit their foliage and flowers. Perennials of the first class par- take of the nature of shrubs, but those of the second are known as Herbaceous Plants. It is only with the culture of a few of the former that we are particularly concerned, and the latter must be dealt with en masse under the special title which belongs to them as a class, namely Herba- ceous Plants, and under the heading Bulbs or Bulbous Plants, a name which is applied to them from the peculiar form, not exactly of the roots, but of that portion of the plant which never perishes as long as the plant lives, and which sends out roots below, and leaves and flowers above, in every year at the proper season. Bedding Plants. — This done, all that remains is to glance at the culture of bed- ding plants, and the special means adopted for the cultivation of what are generally known as florists' flowers, among which stand conspicuous the anemone, the auri- cula, the chrysanthemum, the dahlia, the ho?vyhock, the hyacinth, the pansy, the ranunculus, the rose, the tulip, and the violet. The general culture of flowers in the greenhouse must then be looked into, and with this the special treatment of well- known greenhouse plants, such as the azalea, the camellia, Cape heaths, and the pelargonium. The special culture of plants requiring individual treatment will be found under the name of each plant. Mr. Broome's remarks on p. 21 1 will repay perusal. Lists of Varieties. — Although it is desir- able in the extreme to give lists of plants as an assistance to the reader, it will be useless to absorb space in setting forth long catalogues of the varieties of any single flower, for more reasons than one. In the Srst place, new varieties of florists' flowers are brought out every year in greater or less numbers, and are eagerly sought after for a time to find themselves eclipsed, a^ fears pass on, by new floral gems and stars of a similar character which have been brought into being and under the notice of the public ; and in the second place it is difficult to select a few varieties of each plant, with the hope of satisfying every purchaser and grower, for what may suit some will not suit others. Again, when it is said that the known varieties of roses amount to upwards of 2,000, and that the varieties of the pansy are numbered by hundreds, it will be seen at once how utterly impossible it is to give complete lists, and how vain and hopeless it would be to attempt to make selections, seeing how tastes differ, and that many a variety that may have been heartily welcomed at its introduction is, so to speak, "here to- day and gone to-morrow." How, then, it may be asked, are persons to arrive at a knowledge of current sorts when .they wish to make purchases and stock their gardens ? The answer is simple and easy. Send to any large grower for his catalogue and price list, which is generally sent out twice a year, in spring and autumn, ana from the flowers and varieties of flowers that are named therein make such a selection as may be in con- sonance with your own tastes and wishes. Flowering Grasses. There are few plants and shrubs that tend more to the adornment of the lawn, when placed in such spots that they may not interfere with the prosecution of lawn sports and games, than some of the orna- mental grasses of greater or less size that of late years have added considerably to the pleasing variety with which our pleasure gardens and grounds are furnished. On this account, if on no other, it will be useful to mention the names of a few of the most noteworthy of these grasses coupled with a few remarks on their culture and maintenance. First, let us consider that splendid im- FLOWERING GRASSES. 181 FLOWERING GRASSES. portation from the River Plate, Gynerium argenteum, or Pampas-grass, shown in Fig. FIG. I. — PAMPAS GRASS. I. This should have some dry strawy litter thrown over it in the winter season, and a few spruce boughs or evergreen shrubs stuck round to prevent the litter blowing away. This plant resists the cold of our ordinary seasons, but in many instances succumbs to the severity of an unusually cold and wet winter. Old plants seem hardier than young ones, arising probably from the larger top affording more efficient protection to the roots. The old leaves should not be removed until the end of April, as they afford the best possible pro- tection as far as it goes ; experience, how- ever, shows that of themselves they will not preserve life : hence the necessity of a little extra litter. This is decidedly the king of all the grasses, and deserves a place in every gar- den. As the centre group of a grassery, or placed in a rich shady dell, contiguous to rocks or water, it finds a congenial home, and imparts a charming effect. A rich alluvial soil, at least a yard deep, abund- ance of space to unfold its large, graceful leaves, and throw up its flower-stems, and an unlimited supply of water, are all the conditions its successful culture demands. Packets of seed can be bought at one shil- ling each, and plants that will flower the second year, from nine to twelve shillings a dozen. With liberal treatment, seedlings will flower the third or fourth year. By sowing thinly in February or March in pots, and planting out in prepared beds in May, a season may almost be gained in the growth of the plants. Like all the grasses, the seed should be barely covered with soil, and the surface kept moist, until germination is insured. There seem, however, to be several varieties of this grass, in addition to its sexual dis- tinctions. When practicable, it is therefore best to purchase divided plants from those who have grown the finest flower-stems : it can be rapidly increased by division. FIG. 2.— FEATHER GRASS (STIPA PINNATA). Plants thus divided are more tender than FLOWERING GRASSES. 182 FORCING PIT. others, and will require more protection, until they are thoroughly established. Few plants, however, are more worthy of atten- tion, as they have a fine appearance when growing ; and if the flower-stem is cut before it begins to fade, it looks almost as noble when dry. In addition to the localities here pointed out for them, they also con- trast admirably with large masses of yews or other dark-foliaged shrubs. A companion grass to this, with broad- striped foliage and large feathery flowers, is the Erianthis ravenna. The Tussack- grass, and some of the common reeds and rushes, also form beautiful features in con- F1G. 3.— CRESTED BARLEY GRASS (HORDEUM JUBATUM). nection with these. There are also eight or ten varieties of the Holcus saccharatus, or sugar-cane, whose elegant leaves, stately stems, and various-coloured heads of corn are highly ornamental. These are half- hardy annuals, and should be sown in a gentle heat, and pushed rapidly forward to secure strong plants for planting out in May. The variegated, white-striped, and beautifully marbled Zea, or maize, requires similar treatment, and has a charming effect. The pretty millet-grass (Milium cffusum), charming love -grasses (Eragrostis elegans, E. megastachyaxudi E.^Egyptiaca), and the several varieties of Briza, or quak- ng grass, should be sown either in pots 01 on a rather sheltered bed out of doors. Two more beautiful annual grasses are the Brizopyrum siculum, whose branches rival in beauty the deciduous cypress, and Bromus brizoporoides, so useful for bouquets. The two feather-grasses, Stipa pinnata (Fig. 2) and S. gigantca, hardy perennials, and the hardy biennial Hordeum jubatum, or crested barley grass (Fig. 3), are also most useful for mixing with other flowers, and very elegant in themselves. The smallest feather-grass almost rivals the Festuca glauca for edgings. The hand- some silver foliage of the Festuca contrasts beautifully with red gravel walks, and is said to harbour fewer vermin than box or any other living edging whatever. Tufts can be purchased for is. 6d. a dozen, or 155. per hundred. It is neat, graceful, and easily kept, the only attention required being to cut off the flower-stems in sum- mer, which maintains the leaves in health and beauty. Foliage Plants. These have become very fashionable of late. Many of the geraniums, such as Happy Thought, Black Douglas, and those known as zonal and tricolor geraniums, are to a certain extent examples of these, but the more noticeable specimens are to be found in the begonias, coleus, &c., and various plants used in bedding out. Forcing Pit. The forcing pit is, as it were, interme- diate between the garden frame with its source of heat, the hotbed, and glazed structures which are heated by artificial means. It partakes of the nature of the former in so far that it is used for the same purposes, and chiefly those of growing cucumbers and melons, and is covered in by glass lights ; and it partakes of the nature of the latter in being formed of FORCING PIT. 183 FORCING PIT. brick, and therefore immovable and not portable from place to place, like the garden frame, and in being capable of heating by artificial means, as well as by the warmth produced by fermenting dung. In its simplest form, it is constructed by digging a pit in the ground about 6 feet in width and 12 feet long, and then lining the pit with containing walls of 4^-inch brick ; the depth of the pit should not be less than 3 feet below the ground level, and it may be more than this with advantage. The in which the lights may be moved up and down. An ordinary forcing pit thus constructed is managed in precisely the same way as a garden frame and hotbed. The dung must first be turned over and sweetened, and when in a proper condition be thrown into the pit and well trodden or beaten down to consolidate it. The rank steam must then be allowed to escape, and when this has been done the mould may be thrown over I the dung and the lights put on. There is FORCING PIT WITH LININGS. walls must be brought up to about 2 feet in front and 3 feet behind above the ground level, the sides being gradually sloped from the back wall to the front wall. Upon the wall a kerb of wood is laid, consisting of a timber framework with bars from front to back, in accordance with the number of lights used — that is to say, one bar for two lights, two bars for three lights, £c. The frames and bars are rebated, or slips are nailed on the upper surface of the frame and bars so as to form rebates no means of lining a pit of this description or of increasing the temperature when it is beginning to decline, unless by piling fresh manure and litter round the walls above the ground lev*", which would be attended with a certain degree of inconvenience ; and any steam which may arise from the dung after the lights are on must naturally find its way into the plant chamber within the frame, between the mould and the glass. The portability of the garden frame is useful, and affords a strong argument in FORCING PIT. FORK. favour of its use ; but if it be asked in what points a brick pit is desirable, it may be pointed out that it is generally constructed in a waste corner of the garden, where it is in the way of nothing, always provided that the aspect is a warm one, that it can be filled with more ease and less trouble than to construct a hotbed on which to place a garden frame, and that in the winter, when its work as a forcing pit is over for the season, it can be turned to good account either for stimulating rhubarb and seakale into growth or for protecting half-hardy plants, forming, in fact, an excellent shelter and a miniature conservatory at this season of the year. Forcing Pit with Linings. — It has been said, in the preceding article, that it is not possible to line an ordinary forcing pit, and by this it is meant that it is not possible to maintain by means of linings the dung that occupies the lower part of a forcing pit built in the ordinary way — that is to say, surrounded by four brick walls — and not that it is impossible to construct a forcing pit in such a way that linings may be added, for it is as easy to put linings to a forcing pit as it is to add them to a common hot- bed, but the walls of the pit must be con- structed in such a manner that there may be direct communication between the ex- hausted manure within the pit and the fresh manure that is placed without it in the form of linings. If it be asked if a pit be preferable to a hotbed, the answer is that it is, and further, if the reason be sought, it may be found in the fact that the heat escapes from a pit less quickly than it does from a hotbed, and that a more regular temperature can be sustained in it, which causes all kinds of fruit raised in it to attain greater perfection than it can in the hot- bed. The pit itself is constructed in the same manner as the pit described in the preceding section, above the ground level, hut below this line the walls of the pit it- self are built in a different manner, and there are additional brick walls surround- ing it at a little distance from it, which renders a forcing pit with linings a more costly structure than a pit without them. Instead of excavating an area sufficient for the pit itself a very much larger one must be dug out, so that when the walls of the pit are built, as at A, A, there is a wide trench all round it, or in front and at back only, as may be desired. The upper walls of the pit are supported on pillars, which serve as abutments to flattened arches, which also lend their aid to sustain the walls above ground. The pillars are shown at B, B, and the arches at c, c, in the ac- companying illustration, representing part of the end elevation of the pit, as well as a section of it from back to front. The manure is thrown into the pit until it is brought up as far as D, and to prevent un- due escape of heat through the arches it is also desirable to fill up the passage round the pit, shown at E, E, between the pillars and the containing walls at F, F, which form the utmost limits of the pit, with spent manure at first. The top of this passage is covered in with thick boards, G, G, or, if preferred, a wood framing may be put over the top of the opening, to which wooden flaps or doors of thick timber may be attached by hinges, which is a neater method of construction, and decidedly pre- ferable. The trench or passage may be made only in the front and rear of the pit, as it has been said, but it is better carried all lound. When the heat begins to slacken, the spent manure should be taken out of the trench and fresh manure substituted for it. Pork. This tool is as indispensable as the spade, and even more so, for it is possible to do all the necessary work in a small garden con- taining nothing more than a few borders FORK. 185 FORK. for flowers with an ordinary border-fork. It is handled in much the same manner as the spade, the only difference being that the handle is inserted into a socket pro- ceeding upwards from the centre of the head of the fork, and does not enter the top of the blade as in the spade. For gar- dening purposes, forks are. made with three, four, and five prongs ; but for digging and trenching, a fork with four prongs is the most suitable. The lower part of each prong should be of steel, and the upper part and the tread and socket of the best scrap iron, and the prongs of all forks used for digging and trench- ing should be slightly curved. Fig. I shows the ordinary digging fork, and this may be taken as the general type of tools of this class, the prongs being about 9 or 10 inches in length. This fork will serve for all ordi- nary purposes, but for trenching and breaking FIG. i.— ORDINARY up ground at some little DIGGING FORK. prongs, square above and pointed at the extremity, similar in structure to the ordi- nary digging fork, but much smaller, the prongs being about 6 or 7 inches in length. The smaller fork is most useful for border work in stirring the surface soil to the depth of two or three inches, an operation which is known as "pointing." When borders receive a top dressing of well-rotted manure in the late autumn or early win- ter, it should be mingled with the surface soil by pointing with this fork. Being light and small, and having the prongs tolerably close together, it is possible to finish the sur- 1 face of a border as neatly with this fork as with a rake, any large stones, pebbles, I &c., that are brought to the surface being picked off with the hand. The potato fork, FIG. 2.— DEMERARA TRENCHING FORK. face, a fork with stronger and broader prongs should be used, such as the Demerara trenching fork, which is illus- trated in Fig. 2. In order to impart as much strength as possible to this imple- ment, the front strap is carried almost up the top of the handle, to which it is secured by several rivets. The ends of the prongs are square and broad. In Fig. 3 the border or lady's fork is shown, a tool with slight FIG. 3.— BORDER OR LADY'S FORK. FIG. 4.— FLAT PRONG POTATO FORK. which is used for digging uotatoes, is some- FORK. 186 FORK. what similar in form to the trenching fork, but the prongs are pointed and not so much curved. By its aid large masses of earth can be lifted and shaken or knocked to pieces, so as to expose the potato tubers without injury. Digging forks are sold at the average prices of 33. for three-pronged forks ; 2s. 9d. and 35. 6d. for four-pronged forks, according to size, the former being a nice light tool for pointing borders ; and 45. 6d. for five-pronged forks. Potato forks, Fig. 4, with three prongs are sold at 35. 6d. ; with four prongs at 45.. Trenching forks, with four prongs, are supplied at 55. 3d. each. The Deme- rara trenching forks are supplied in the following sizes : — With three prongs, 13^ inches by 7^ inches, 45. 6d. each, and with four prongs, 13! inches by 8 inches, at 55. 6d. each. The forks used for FIG. S.-MANURE FORK. lif(ing manure and turning over manure heaps are lighter in structure than digging forks, the prongs being slighter and having more space be- tween them. A useful form is shown in Fig. Si which represents the Anglo-Ameri- can manure fork. Manure forks are sup- plied with long or short handles as may be preferred. The long-handled fork is pre- ferable for lifting manure into a cart, but the short-handled fork will do very well for turning over a heap, lifting it into a barrow, or spreading it over the ground. It must be understood that manure fa^cs are only neces- sary in dealir^nvith farmyard ma- nure : they are" hot wanted for the compost heap, unless considerable quantities of grass and vegetable refuse be thrown on it. The Manure Drag shown in Fig. 6 is to all intents and purposes a fork, so bent that it is no longer available for the purposes for which a manure fork is re- quired, but must be used as a rake. It is always fitted with a long handle. The FIG. 6. — MANURE DRAG. cost of good ordinary manure forks, with long handles, black, range from 35. 6d, tti 45. 6d., according to size; bright forks, and forks of better quality, are higher, say is. more. Drag forks cost about 45. 6d. each. Fork, Hand, or Garden Pork. This handy and useful form of fork is supplied with a long handle, as shown in Fig. I, or with a short handle as shown in Fig. 2. Either kind may be used with one hand. The prongs are broad and pointed. These forks will be found useful and serviceable in transplanting border plants, and in working the surface of the soil in borders in which growing plants stand closely together — too closely, in fact, for the safe use of the pointing fork. They are also useful for taking up aspara- gus and other roots that are not too large for removal by such means, and for putting aside bark, cocoanut fibre, &c., for pots FIG. I. — GARDEN FORK WITH LONG HANDLE. that require plunging in these materials. Garden forks, or weeding forks, as they FOUNTAINS. 187 FOUNTAINS. are sometimes called, with short handles, are sold in three sizes, and range in price from is. to 2s. 6d. each, according to FIG. 2.— GARDEN FORK WITH SHORT HANDLE. quality; and the prices of those with long handles are much the same, the extra length of handle making but little differ- Fountains. Fountains, even on the smallest scale, can only be constructed in gardens and pleasure grounds of great size or of con- siderable importance. The great objection to fountains as garden decorations is to be found in the fact that they cannot be always in operation, and that they must be set in action like a musical box, and, like a musical box, will only remain in action until the motive power is exhausted. In small gardens they can only be carried out on a small scale, and it is doubtful if the temporary effect that is produced now and then for a brief period is worth the cost of production. Fountains in miniature in ferneries and conservatories are admissible, and even desirable, as pretty adjuncts in the right place, whose maintenance at cer- tain seasons can be managed by artificial means which in themselves are not over- burdensome by reason of their cost ; but in small gardens the introduction of a fountain savours somewhat of pretension. There are, however, many who will have a fountain by hook or by crook, as the old saying goes, and it is therefore necessary to explain the principles on which fountains may be constructed. Water, unless interrupted in its course, will, in ordinary circumstances, find its natural level ; that is to say, if a body of water, A, in Fig. i, underlying an imper- vious stratum of clay, as B, is pierced at c, and a tube inserted, the water will rise in a jet to the highest level of the water A, as shown by the horizontal dotted line. Or if a glass tube, A, Fig. 2, having a funnel- shaped mouth, be carried through the cork, B, of the jar c, and a small tube, D, also inserted in the same cork, so as to be in free communication with the fluid poured into the funnel, it will be found that when the jar c is filled by pouring water through the tube A, the water will force its way up- ward through D in a small jet, and continue to do so as long as liquid is poured into the funnel, the jet being proportioned in height to the height and diameter of the tube. . FIG. I. — DIAGRAM SHOWING HOW WATER .FINDS ITS OWN LEVEL. Jets exceeding the fifteenth of an inch in size never attain the natural surface level ; friction at the orifice, the diffusion of the power by the spreading of spray, and the resisting power of the atmosphere, all tend- ing to prevent its doing so. Great jets rise higher in proportion than small, except when the horizontal tube leading to the orifice of the jet is very narrow, when small jets rise highest. Practically, a jet will rise to within a few inches of the bottom of its fountain-head. For the artificial cascade, the water-service need not be higher than the Doinl at which it flows over the ledge or njfc* of the tazza ; the ledge should be perfectly 'level, in order to keep up a regular flow 'Ji writer : a notch or other irregularity would destroy the cas- FRAMES FOR GARDENS. 1 88 FRAMES FOR GARDENS. cade and produce a stream. On the other hand, if it is to be forced upwards, the bottom of the fountain-head must be some inches above the point to which the jet is to rise, and the supply pipe should lead from the lowest part of the basin, descend- ing in a continuous and uniform line, with- out break or bend, to increase the friction. Any such departure from the direct line must be calculated in the result ; the usual calculation being that a head six inches in diameter will force a column of water up a jet one-eighth of an inch in diameter. Where iron pipes are used, the deposit of calcareous matter soon stops them up ; they are useless, therefore, when less than three-inch pipes, unless coated, outside and in, with some composition for preventing oxidation. When the jet is to be forced higher than the fountain-head, mechanical force becomes necessary, either to pump the water to a higher level, as at the Crystal Palace, or by means of the hydraulic ram, a machine contrived to raise water by its own momen- turn — a sort of reciproca- ting process in which a comparatively small quan- tity of water is forced up at a time, but the process being continuous and self- acting great aggregate re- no 2. -PRINCIPLE suits are obtained. Thus, OF THE FOUNTAIN jt may be said, it is only EXPLAINED. 111 J where the pleasure garden is surrounded by high grounds that a satis- factory result can be obtained and effective fountains constructed. Frames for Gardens. Long Frame.— This is a glazed structure of moderate height, and of length and breadth generally regulated by the purpose to which it is put. It will be convenient to regard the garden frame as altogether a structure movable at pleasure, and to dissociate it from the immovable forcing pit, whose sides, as it has been already explained, are of brick surmounted by a coping of wood, whereon rest movable lights, precisely similar to those that are used for the wooden garden frame. Long ranges in frame fashion, as shown in Fig. I, which must be regarded rather as protectors than as structures in which heat is maintained, may be made in any convenient position and in a sunny aspect by means of boards at front and back placed end to end, those in the rear being wider than those in front, so that the lights may slant from back to front, and closed by boards at each end, the boards being steadied and kept in position by stakes driven in on both sides of them, or, if greater neatness be sought after, by stakes rectangular in form, about 3 inches wide and I inch thick, sharpened to a point at the lower end to enter the soil, and screwed to the boards either in- side or outside. The frame thus made is then covered in with a row of small lights, say 4 feet long by 3 feet broad, placed side by side, and resting, one end on the board at back and the other end on the board in front. A structure of this kind may be con- siderably strengthened by nailing strips of wood between each frame from back board to front board, and then by screwing a broader strip to these underneath, so as to form a rebate on each side of them, facility may be given for sliding the frames up and down, otherwise ventilation must be effected by raising the frames either in front or at the back, propping them up by sup- ports cut step fashion, as in Fig. 2, so that more or less space may be given for the entrance of air according to the state of the weather. Lights for such a frame as this may be glazed or covered with oiled calico, FRAMES FOR GARDENS. 189 FRAMES FOR GARDENS. or even with oiled paper. Such appliances as these are used in market gardens, and by reason of their simplicity and cheapness, and the ease with which they are put up and dismantled, will be found of much use in private gardens for raising and protecting early crops in a warm aspect in the spring, and for obtaining and saving lettuces, £c., throughout the winter. Ordinary Two-light Frame. — The prin- by one, two, or three lights. The best way of making a frame is to construct the sides with tenons of some length, that pass through mortices cut for their reception in the ends of the front and back, as shown in the illustration given in Fig. 3, which affords a correct representation of a two- light garden frame, in accordance with the directions given above. In this, A and B represent respectively the front and back, FIG. I. — LONG FRAME OR PROTECTOR, WITH RANGE OF SMALL LIGHTS ON TOP. FIG. 2. — SUPPORT FOR LIGHT. ciple of the garden frame is set forth in the description of the Long Garden Frame or Protector, and from this it may be seen that the frame itself, be it of what size it may, is always made in the same stereo- typed manner, so to speak — that is to say, the front is higher than the back, and the sides are cut so as to slope or slant from back to front in accordance with the relative height of these parts. A good proportion for the relative heights of back and front is 3 parts for the former to 2 parts for the latter— that is to say, if the front board be 12 inches high the back should be 18 inches, or if the front be 18 inches high the back should be 27 inches. These are the heights at which the back and front parts of a garden frame are usually made, their lengths varying according to the number of lights with which the frame is covered ; and as garden lights, as a general rule, are 6 feet by 4 feet, so a frame will be 6 feet by 4 feet, 6 feet by 8 feet, or 6 feet by 12 feet, according as it is made to be corered and c the side nearest to the spectator. The mortices, tenons, and pegs by which these parts of the structure are connected and held together are shown at D, D. Ledges, lettered E, E, are screwed on to the outside of the sides, and front and back are further connected by a slip of wood, F, which should be rebated on each side, or on which a slip should be nailed down its centre lengthways to form a rebate, in order to supply a bearing in which the inner edge of each light may slide up and down. In these bearings and in the top of each side a semicircular groove should be cut from top to bottom to catch and carry of any rain that may find its way in at the edges off the sides of the lights. The lights are made of stuff from I \ inch to i^ inch thick, and are furnished with three or more grooved sash bars, as shown, and strengthened by a flat iron bar about T\ inch thick and one inch wide, let into the under side of the framework of the light, and passing through slots cut for it in the sash bars. This bar is shown at H in each light, and at G an iron handle, which is screwed to the edge of the top of the frame to afford means by which it FRAXINELLA. 190 FRITILLARIA. may be more easily pushed down or drawn up into its place when down. Frames should be glazed with 21 -ounce glass. Fraxinel'la (»at. ord. Ruta'cese). Handsome, free-flowering, hardy herba- ceous plants, perennials, suitable for mixed borders ; succeed in any common soil. Fraxinella,— red, 2 ft., from South Europe. „ white, 2 ft. „ French Beans. See Beans, Kidney. Freesia (not. ord. Irideae). The name given to a species of bulbs in August or September, in light rich soil with plenty of sand. The pots should be well drained. When potted, place under a south wall and cover with ashes or cocoa- nut fibre until the bulbs begin to grow. Then remove the covering and transfer to a cold frame. Water sparingly, but when the plants are going out of blossom with- hold water altogether, so that the foliage may be induced to wither. Stow away the bulbs in their own pots and leave them there until August when they should be repotted. The best known varieties are Freesia Leichtlinii major, French white with orange throat, and F. reftacta alba, FIG. 3. — TWO-LIGHT GARDEN FRAME IN ISOMETRICAL PERSPECTIVE. from the Cape of Good Hope that form pretty plants for the conservatory. They can be increased without difficulty from seed, that should be sown in five-inch pots, as the freesia does not like transplanting, the seedlings being thinned out so as to leave five or six plants in each pot. The seed should be sown, when ripe, in light sandy loam on light soil mixed with sand, and be placed in a cool frame exposed -to the influence of the sun's rays. The blooms exhale a delicious fragrance and are useful and beautiful as cut flowers. Bulbs should be potted, or re-potted as the case may be, pure white with yellow blotches on lower petal. Fritilla'ria (nat. ord. Liiia'cse). A species of perfectly hardy bulbs, among which is included the Crown Imperial. Many of them, as for example, F. Meleagris, or Snake's Head, have singularly marbled flowers. They are very interesting and pretty, succeeding in any common garden soil, a deep rich loam suiting them best. They do well and thrive in a deep rich loam, and as they are not averse to shade, they will grow in shaded situations. FROST. 191 FRUIT. CROWN IMPERIAL. Frost, Pruning in Time of. No tree or shrub should be pruned or cut in frosty weather, as the frost acts adversely on the freshly made wound. Fruit, Appliances for Gathering. These are various in form, but the main object in all is the same, namely, to detach from the tree fruit which is out of reach without having recourse to ladders, and, at the same time, to catch it in some recep- tacle attached to the fruit gatherer, or to hold it fast by some contrivance so as to prevent it from falling to the ground when detached, which would only result in bruises and injury. It is manifest that the principle on which all fruit gatherers are constructed involves the use of a long pole with a cap or receptacle of some sort at the end of it. The very simplest mode of gathering fruit otherwise out of reach is to take a long stick with a hook at the end of it and to pull the branches down to such an extent that the fruit may be easily plucked, but this is not practicable in every case, and great care must be used in the operation to prevent injury to the branches. The next step in advance is to be found in the simple appliances used by the Spanish fruit growers to gather oranges and by the Swiss to gather apples, pears, walnuts, &c. London describes the first of these as a rod with a cup at one end, from the edge of which projects tongues of metal or plate iron, as shown in Fig. I, these tongues being somewhat sharp at the edges. The cup is thrust upward until the fruit rests in it, and a slight twist is then suffi- cient to detach the fruit, the stalk being caught between the tongues attached to the cup and broken off by pressure. The Swiss fruit gatherer, shown in Fig. 2, con- sists of a pole with a basket attached to it constructed on the same principle and acting in a similar manner, the projections above the horizontal basket work affording the means of breaking the stalk and detach- ing the fruit which remains in the basket. Contrivances similar to the above in general construction and purpose have been long used in this country for gathering wall fruit, such as peaches, nectarines, apricots, and plums with as little injury as possible to the bloom that is on them. For the fruit just mentioned a tin funnel is used, which may be held in a ring of metal at FIG. I. — SPANISH FIG. 2. — SWISS FRUIT ORANGE GATHERER. GATHERER. the end of a long rod. The funnel is placed under the fruit and the edge brought gently against it in order to detach it. It then drops gently into the funnel and remains there for renewal by the fruit gatherer. This kind of fruit gatherer is shown in Fig 3 ; another of a similar kind is illustrated in Fig. 4, but in thif. ';he edge of FRUIT. 192 FRUIT. the cone or funnel is notched in order to a better means of detaching fruit with tougher stalks, such as pears. This fruit gatherer is useful for gathering mulberries. In the illustrations the handles are shown at right angles to the axis ot the funnels. Such a position is well enough for gathering fruit on ordinary walls, but when the fruit is at some distance above the gatherer, as is the case with pears, apples, and mulberries, FIG. 3. FUNNEL FOR GATHERING PEACHES, &C. FIG. 4. FUNNEL FOR GATHER- ING PEARS, &C. the pole must either be in the same straight line with the axis, or, in other words, must have the funnel fixed directly on its end, or must be slightly inclined to it. It is better, perhaps, to have the ring that holds the funnel as near the rim as possible, and to attach it by a flange to a cap on the end of the handle, so that it may be brought to any desired angle to the handle and retained in that position. Fruit, How and When to Gather. Fruit gathering is one of the most cheer- ful and agreeable employments connected with garden management. It usually en- lists every hand in its service, and in an abundant year finds all hands plenty to do. To the following plain and simple directions, those who are entrusted with the superin- tendence of fruit-gathering will do well at all times to attend. Maturity of Fruit. — It is important, in the first place, to remark that no fruit should be gathered for storing before it has arrived at maturity. By this we are to understand not necessarily its full flavour and ripeness, but the completion of its growth or size j and as all fruit, even upon the same tree, does not come to maturity at the same period, it will frequently be found the safest and most economical plan to make the gathering at two or three different times. It is very easy to ascertain when any particular fruit is ready ; for ripe fruit always leaves the tree upon a gentle touch — the fruit-stalk parts from the twig on which it grows without any sign of rending or violence. Windfalls. — In a general way, with both apples and pears, several of the most for- ward fruit will have fallen before the general crop is in a fit state to be gathered ; and this fallen or bruised fruit should never be mixed with that which is intended to be stored ; all unsound fruit which may be found upon the trees at the time of gather- ing should also be rejected. When to gather. — Fruit, in fact, which ripens in summer and autumn, should be gathered a little before it is absolutely ripe : thus gathered, it is better in quality and higher flavoured than when absolutely ripe. But this must not be carried too far. A single day before they are perfectly ripe suffices for peaches and other delicate stone fruit ; a week for apples and pears ; but cherries are only gathered when completely ripe. Apples and pears, which arrive at complete maturity in winter, are best gathered at the moment when the leaves begin to fall, and the sap to withdraw from the branches in October. Weather for Gathering. — All gathering should take place in dry weather, and the fruit should not be handled or pulled about more than is absolutely necessary. The middle and afternoon of the day will usually be found the best time for gathering, as autumn mornings, even in the finest weather, are always more or less humid ; and to avoid any risk in keeping, all fruit should be quite dry before it is taken from the tree. FRUIT. 193 FRUIT. In what to gather. — The most convenient baskets for fruit-gathering are peck and half-bushel baskets, with cross-handles. These should be provided with a line and a hook, by means of which they may be hung to the branches of the tree, and thus allow the gatherer the liberty of using both his hands : by the line, the baskets, when full of fruit, can be lowered to be emptied, and drawn up again. Gathering Pears. — With regard to the choicer sorts of pears, especially those growing on trees against walls, or on dwarf trees, it will well repay the little extra time and trouble it may cause, to gather these by their stalks without touching them with the hand, and to remove them at once to the fruit-room on the trays or in the drawers in which they are to be stored. Bloom on Fruit. — There is on the skin of all fruit a secretion more or less marked, known commonly by the name of bloom. This, though less conspicuous on apples and pears than on plums and peaches, is nevertheless present, and its use is to pro- tect the skin of the fruit from the ill effects of excessive moisture. While this bloom can be preserved, the fruit will never re- quire wiping, and will retain its full flavour and freshness. Season of Fruit -gathering. — The season of fruit-gathering must be considered to be the most important in the year. All other seasons are to be regarded as preparatory to this, which is to reward the cultivator for his past care and labour. Five or six weeks in autumn — earlier or later according to the season, and according to situation also, are usually given to the gathering, collecting, and storing of the different varieties of apples and pears, which, in our country, are known as autumn fruits. In a commercial point of view, the result of this season has a most important bearing. The difference between a good and bad apple and pear crop is to be measured by many thousands of pounds ; and what household is there, whether among rich or poor, which knows not the luxury of an abundant autumn, and the inconvenience — to say nothing of the pecuniary loss — when some of the many accidents to which our fruit- trees are liable have deprived us of out autumn crops, or left us only a poor and indifferent supply for our winter wants ? In some parts of the country, this loss, when it occurs, falls with far greater severity than in others. Fruit, Room for Storing. With most persons the fruit-room is the great difficulty in the way of preparation for the keeping of fruit. A loft over the coach-house or stable, a spare room in the gardener's cottage, or what is even more generally the case, a top attic in the dwel- ling-house, is often converted into a fruit- room ; not because it is well adapted for the purpose, but because it is the only place that can be spared. It is for this reason, among others, that it is deemed advisable to enumerate many of the different plans which are made use of for the storing or fruit, so that each one may adopt that which the circumstances of his case admit, rather than to attempt to determine what plan is abstractedly the best. Where, however, no such restrictions exist, and a fruit-room can be constructed and arranged in the manner most likely to accomplish the object desired, the following provisions should be carefully attended to : — Aspect of. — If the place to be built for a fruit-room be above ground, and not a dark, dry, well-aired vault, a north aspect must be selected ; and if the room be on the top storey, the roof of it should slope towards the north. Covering. — The best possible covering for a fruit-room is thatch ; but if this can- not be managed, or from any cause is deemed objectionable, let the roof be 14 FRUIT. 194 FRUIT. double ; also the outer walls of the room should be hollow ; for, with a double roof and hollow walls, the liability to injury from frost will be considerably diminished. Ventilation. — Though the fruit-room should for the most part be kept dark, it is desirable that there should be one or two small windows in it, and some good and simple method of ventilation, so that on dry days, and whenever necessary, the atmosphere may be completely changed. This is most important ; for though it is not desirable to admit air unless needed, ventilation must never be neglected when the exhalations from the fruit have in any degree tainted the air of the room. When- ever there is a strong smell in the fruit- room, we may be quite sure that something is wrong. Fittings. — Let us suppose, then, a fruit- room so situated as described, with a north aspect, properly roofed and ventilated, and of convenient dimensions for the size of the garden. We will say that in shape it is a parallelogram, with its door or entrance in one of the shorter sides. A very im- portant question now occurs. How can such a place be best and most conveniently fitted up ? The centre should be occupied by a dresser running lengthways to the ex- treme end of the room. This will be useful for resting or landing the baskets of fruit, as soon as they are brought in from the orchard or garden. The underneath part of the dresser should be fitted up with drawers on one or both sides, according to the width of it ; and the top provided with a deep ledge, about 2 inches deep on all sides, to prevent any fruit that may be laid upon it from falling off. The depth of the drawers may vaiy according to circum- stances— some may be deep, for stdring very dry fruit, one upon another ; others shallow, for fruit in single layers. The •ides of the room also may be fitted up in the same manner, with dressers all round and drawers underneath. Over these dressers the side-walls may be filled with shelves of any convenient width, about 9 inches or a foot apart from each other, ac- cording to the width of the shelves. These shelves must, in the same way as the dresser, be fitted with a ledge I or 2 inches deep, to prevent the fruit rolling off; and in severe frosty weather the apples and pears on the shelves can be covered with fern-leaves. Fruit, Modes of Storing. The following statement appears to em- brace the best methods, and those that are most generally adopted, for the storing and preservation of fruit : — 1. Apples and pears may be sweated — /.*., laid in heaps and left to heat, and then stored away in an apple-room on dressers, or in a dry dark vault in heaps, uncovered except during frost. This plan, though very generally adopted where apples are kept in large quantities for sale, is always open to the objection of being more or less injurious to the quality and flavour of the fruit. 2. Fruit may be stored on open shelves and on the floor of a fruit-room, spread out upon straw, and covered, when neces- sary, with the same material. 3. In the same way, but upon dried fern- leaves, and with fern-leaves for a covering. It is by no means a good plan to store apples and pears upon straw, nor even to cover them with it ; for straw always im- parts an unpleasant flavour to the fruit. Fern-leaves, when properly dried, form an excellent bed for fruit to lie upon, and are not liable to the same objection. As a protection against frost, fern-leaves are de- cidedly a good covering. 4. In baskets or hampers, lined with straw or fern-leaves, but without any ma- terial between the layers of fruit. If the fruit be dry when placed in the FRUIT. I9S FRUIT-TREES. baskets or hampers, and the store-room of an even temperature, it keeps very well in this manner. However, for the reason as- signed above, fern-leaves are preferable to straw. 5. In boxes or casks, with sawdust. 6. In boxes or casks, with bran. 7. In boxes or casks, with wheat -chaff, or with oat-flights. Sawdust is decidedly objectionable, even though taken from the hardest and most inodorous wood, for it is almost certain, after long keeping, to become musty and unpleasant ; and so also does bran, which is naturally a fermenting substance, and soon heats if put together in any quantity, especially with fruit among it. In shallow trays, bran will answer for a time very well, but it will require attention. For packing fruit for conveyance, both bran and saw- dust also may be used with good effect. Wheat-chaff, as well as oat-flights, is liable to produce the same mischief. It is quite impossible to be certain that the fruit will not become tainted by means of them, more particularly in closed boxes, and where there is no ventilation. 8. In boxes, with dry sand between the fruit. 9. In boxes, with powdered charcoal in the same way. By adopting either of these methods, fruit may be preserved for a long period ; but though sand and charcoal are good materials for keeping fruit sound, they are both open to the great objection of making the skin gritty and unpleasant. 10. In jars, without any material inter- vening between the fruit : the jars, when covered with a piece of slate or tile, to be buried in dry sand of a depth sufficient to exclude all air and to ensure preservation from frost. This plan will undoubtedly answer its purpose, as far as preservation is concerned ; but it is attended with much greater trouble and inconvenience than most persons would deem desirable. 11. In deep drawers, one upon another, without any substance between them. 12. In deep drawers, with sheets of paper or dried fern-leaves placed between the layers of fruit. Both these plans are good, and if the fruit be stored sound and dry, there will be little need of any intervening material. 13. In single layers in shallow trays or drawers, resting upon fern-leaves, and to be covered when necessary with the same. This is the plan which may be regarded as being, under ordinary circumstances, the safest and best to be adopted. 14. In heaps in dark, dry, well-aired vaults. In this way both apples and pears, in large quantities, may be well and easily kept ; and if the vaults be thoroughly dry and sufficiently beneath the surface to ex- clude frost, the fruit will require no further protection, and give but little trouble. Filberts and walnuts, to be stored foi winter use, should be gathered when full ripe, and on a dry day. The latter must be cleared of their husks. They may then be packed in glazed earthern jars, tied down with coarse brown paper, and kept in a damp cellar. Filberts keep best in this manner without their husks ; but if the husks are to be preserved, the fruit must be left to stand for a night in open baskets, and be well shaken to get rid of earwigs. Many persons shake a little salt over the last layer of nuts before the jars are tied down. All drawers, shelves, boxes, or jars con- taining fruit should be labelled every year as soon as the fruit is stored, so that the different sorts may be easily and readily known. Fruit-Trees, Dwarf. Modern fruit -gardens may be described FRUIT-TREES. 195 FRUIT-TREES. as orchards in miniature. Certainly they are more manageable, doubly interesting, and equally productive with orchards. To make good dwarf trees, work apples on the Paradise or Doucin, otherwise French, stock from layers, pears on the quince, and cherries and plums on the smallest stocks that can be procured. Careful summer stopping, root-pruning, and the pyramidal form will enunciate the main features of their treatment and training ; and abun- dance of good fruit will be the result. The trees may be planted in rows from 7 tc IO feet apart, and the same distance between each plant. On good soils they succeed well on the level of the ground ; on heavy clays, or other unfavourable bottoms, the ground can be thrown into ridges or mounds. The space between these mounds may be occupied with standard gooseberry or currant — these bear admirably trained with a single stem in this manner ; and the sides of the mounds can be cropped with salading. A fruit -garden thus formed is quite a scene of beauty when the trees are in flower, and very enjoyable at all times. Fruit-Trees, Planting of. Time. — The time for planting may be in any month from October to February inclusive, but many arguments may be brought forward in favour of the month of November, if the weather be open and free from frosts. Spring is always a busy season in the garden, and digging, sowing, grafting, and pruning are then in full opera- tion. Planting, without doubt, is best per- formed in November, for every kind of deciduous tree and shrub, and for most evergreens, although it is possible, with care, to plant and transplant evergreens in almost every month in the year. What- ever -variety of opinion may exist in refer- ence to evergreens, there is no doubt whatever that the planting of all deciduous trees, fruit-tr#es included, and shrubs, should cease by the middle of December. This work should therefore be pushed for- ward in mild weather. One great point of success is to keep the roots of the plants as little exposed as possible : a dry wind, or a cutting, frosty air, is fatal to them. The tops of plants are endowed, even when in a dormant state, with a wonderful power of resisting cold. As Nature never intended the roots to be exposed, and does not needlessly squander her resources, it is obvious that this power of resisting cold is not extended to them. Therefore, all newly-planted shrubs and trees should also have their roots protected during the first winter with long litter, to prevent their being injured. When placed close to- gether in nursery lines, plants shelter and protect each other, and the massiveness of their tops, and possibly their summer leaves, shield their roots from the frost. Their condition is widely different when placed thinly in newly-formed shrubberies. Hence the propriety, and in many instances the necessity, if their lives are to be saved and their health preserved, of what is termed mulching — that is, covering the surface with some good non-conducting material. The next point of most import- ance in planting trees or shrubs, especially of large size, is to firmly secure the top to a strong stake, or by any other method, so as to keep it immovable in one spot. When it is otherwise, the trees, both top and root, are the sport of every fresh breeze ; and the probability is, that after the roots have made a feeble effort to grow, and been forcibly wrenched from the soil, they will perish. Soils liked by Trees. — The pear loves a silicious earth of considerable depth ; plums flourish in calcareous soils, and the roots seek the surface ; the cherry prefers a light, silicious soil ; and all cease to be produc- tive in moist, humid soils. The apple ac' commodates itself more to clayey soils, bui FRUIT-TREES. 197 FRUIT-TREES. does best in a loamy soil of moderate quality, slightly gravelly. Preparation of Stations. — In preparing stations, therefore, suitable soils should be supplied to each. The station is prepared by digging out a pit about 3 feet square, and the same in depth, in ground that has been well drained. In the bottom of thi pit lay 10 or 12 inches of brick or lime rubbish, the roughest material at the bot torn, and ram it pretty firmly, so as to be impervious to the tap-root ; the remainder of the pit must be filled in with earth suit able to the requirements of the tree. When the surrounding soil is a tenacious clay, the roots of the young tree should be spread out just under the surface, and rich light mould placed over them, forming a little mound round the roots ; but in no case should the crown be more than covered : deep planting is the bane of fruit-trees. Preparation of Trees for Planting. — The stations being prepared, and the trees having arrived, it is necessary to prune the roots, by taking off all the small fibres, and shortening the larger roots to about six inches from the stem ; and if any portion of the roots has received any bruise, or been broken before the trees have reached their destination, that part of the root should be removed entirely, by a clean, sharp cut. Two or three spurs are suffi- cient, but if there be more good ones, they may remain, after being carefully pruned. The rapidity of railway conveyance will prevent injury to the trees, especially if they are carefully packed in mould and matted ; but it may be a proper precaution against carelessness at the nursery if the roots are laid in milk-and-water or soap- suds a few hours before they are planted. Process of Planting. — The process of planting will differ, according as it is in- tended to be a dwarf, a standard, a pyra- mid, or a wall tree. If for a dwarf, standard, or espalier, after cutting away the tap-root, except in the case of the peach, which, having a tendency to throw up suckers, should have the roots directed downwards, place it upright in the centre of the station ; spread the roots carefully in a horizontal direction, and cover them with prepared mould to the required height, supporting the young plant with a strong stake, driven firmly into the ground, and tying the stem to it, after surrounding the stem with hay or straw, or even a wrapping of old felt carpet, so that the string may not bruise the young tree or cut into the bark, pressing the soil gently, but firmly, over the extended roots. When the opera- MODE OF PLACING TREE IN POSITION AGAINST WALL, tion of planting is finished, cover the ground all round the tree with a layer of half- rotten dung. This process, called mulch- ing, consists in spreading a layer of short half-rotten dung 5 or 6 inches thick round the stem, in a radius 6 inches be- yond the extremity of the roots. The mulch should be spread evenly with the "ork, and gently pressed down by the back of the spade, or, if exposed to wind, pegged down to prevent its being blown away If a wall tree, let the root be as far fror- the wall as may conveniently be, with the stem loping to it, the roots being extended and covered in the same manner with the soil, FRUIT-TREES. 198 FRUIT-TREES. The way in which this should be done is shown in the accompanying illustration. The object is to give the roots as much room as possible in which to ramify. Modifications in Planting. — The nature of the soil is to be regarded, and the tree planted at a greater or smaller elevation above the level of the surrounding soil, according to its nature. Where the sub- soil is a stiff clay, the mound in which it is planted should rise from 9 to 12 inches ; in a warm dry soil, a very gentle elevation suffices. The roots should be planted in the richest mould ; and various expedients, to which reference will be made presently, should be used to keep them moist and cool, and free from canker. The mould requires to be pressed gently and closely round the roots with the hand, so that the soil may be closely packed round them ; with these precautions, no fear need be entertained of productive fruit-trees being obtained. Precautions after Planting. — And now, the trees being planted, the wall trees nailed to the wall to prevent them being shaken by the winds, the standard and dwarf trees firmly attached to a strong stake for the same purpose, let us consider the various expedients which have been adapted from time to time to protect the roots of the young trees from the frosts of winter and the scorrbing heats of summer. For this purpose, layers of straw or of ferns, 5 or 6 inches thick, laid in circles 3 feet round the stem, have been re- commended, and the nurseryman should have very special directions to have them carefully taken up, with every root and fibre as entire as possible, and to pack them carefully in damp moss, or any other material that will retain moisture, the stems and branches being well tied in, and wrapped up in straw inside and mats out- side. On their arrival, if the weather Continues open, they are to be carefully unpacked and " laid in by the heels," as gardeners term the operation of laying them in a temporary trench. Lawrence, one of our oldest and best writers on fruit- trees, very much approves of the ferns and mulching during violent frosts ; but the straw and dung, he thinks, encourage worms, ants, and other vermin very in- jurious to the young roots ; therefore he adopted, as equally effective, more sightly, and free from that objection, the plan of placing a layer of sand in a circle round the tree, covering the sand with small round stones, which is neat and attractive to the eye, and equally effective in protect- ing the roots, keeping them, at the same time, cool, and admitting of the necessary percolation of moisture. Fruit-Trees, Protection for. Set Copings for Walls, &c. Pruit-Trees, Selection of. In selecting trees for planting, it is important to note their different seasons for ripening, and to select the sorts, so that a continuous supply may follow. There are some kinds of fruit which must be con- sumed when ripe, or preserved in sugar or otherwise, which altogether changes their character. Besides, only a moderate supply of apples and pears need be provided in summer or early autumn, when peaches are in season. Nevertheless, it would be a great mistake to overlook summer apples and pears altogether : many of them are of excellent quality, and form an agreeable addition to the dessert, as well as for kitchen use, even in houses well supplied with peaches, nectarines, and apricots. In arranging the quarters of the fruit garden, therefore, leaving the walls for the more tender peach, nectarine, apricot, and more delicate French pears, the espaliers, dwarf trees, and pyramids should be ar- ranged so that out of every hundred trees, FRUIT-TREES. 199 FRUIT-TREES. whether pears or apples, a tenth might ripen early, a fifth ripen in October, a fifth in December, and the remainder — long- keeping sorts — in the winter. This pro- portion might be adopted in the largest establishments, and even in the orchards of the cider counties, where the system about to be described might be acted upon with great advantage to the owners. In smaller gardens, with which this work has more immediately to do, the proportion of apples, pears, and plums will be decided by indi- vidual taste. Perhaps the best course would be to divide the garden, one half, or thereabouts, into apples and pears ; and to plant the outside of the wall borders next the walks with espaliers, for apples and pears of the finer sorts. Fruit-Trees, Training of. We may best consider briefly the forms in which trees may be trained by first turning our attention to the modes and conditions under which trees must, of necessity, be grown. These narrow them- selves, in point of fact, to two — that is to say, a tree may be grown naturally, so to speak, without any support, save and except its own stem or trunk, from which proceed the branches ; or it may be grown artifici- ally— that is to say, by the aid of artificial supports, in the form of stakes, wires, and walls, which enable us to give whatever direction we please to the branches, and otherwise mould them to our purpose by the processes of pinching and pruning, which have been already explained. By a rough and ready form of classifica- tion, then, all fruit-trees may be grouped in two divisions, as those that are grown without artificial supports, and those that are grown with artificial supports. These divisions overlap each other, it is true, inasmuch as any fruit-tree may be grown in either way, the conditions being favour- able under which they are grown, but each method of growing is more favourable to some descriptions of fruit-trees than to others. For example, we find in this country apple-trees, pear-trees, cherry- trees, and plum-trees, grown in orchards, but peaches, nectarines, and apricots re- quire the shelter and warmth afforded by a wall with a south aspect, to enable them to bring their fruit to perfection when grown in the open air. Yet there is nothing to prevent the growth of the trees named in the first group on walls and other kinds of support ; nor, on the other hand, is there anything that militates against the culture of the trees in the second group under the form prescribed by nature, when we give them the protection that they require in our climate by means of orchard houses, in which they may be grown in pots or in borders in the pyramid or bush form. The arrangement proposed may, there- fore, be regarded as a conventional ar- rangement— that is to say, an arrangement which, if not absolutely in keeping with nature, is at least convenient for the treat- ment of the subject. We say, then, that, broadly speaking, trees may be grown without artificial supports, or with them ; and taking this general view, we find that the trees that are grown without artificial supports are the apple-tree, the pear-tree, the cherry-tree, and the plum-tree. Under this condition, the forms assumed by these trees are the standard and the pyramid or bush form, the former being more suitable for culture in isolated positions or in orchards, and the latter for gardens and smaller areas of ground and for orchard houses. All the trees mentioned, and the peach, the apricot, and the cherry, may be grown by aid of artificial supports. When recourse is had to artificial support, the support assumes the form of a vertical stake or a horizontal line, either singly or collectively, or of a plane surface, though, FRUIT-TREES. 200 FUCHSIA. in point of fact, a row of vertical stakes set in a line, or a series of horizonal wires one above another, are tantamount to a vertical plane surface as presented by a wall. But this brings us to the fact that trees may be trained on a single horizontal wire on what is called the cordon system, a system which may be carried out with equal facility on walls, or they may be trained on a plane surface, with branches radiating from the main stem on each side of it. The various forms adopted in the modes of Fruit-Trees, Treatment of. The following table will be found useful in providing in a small compass a synoptical view of the soil that is liked best by each kind of fruit-tree that is adapted for train- ing, and other particulars with respect to its culture, propagation, training, suitable aspect, &c. Fuchsia. Whoever has a greenhouse two yards square, or a window free from dust, may FRUIT TREE. SOIL. MODE OF PROPAGATION. TIME. How GROWN. ASPECT. Apple. Apricot. Cherry. Peach and Nectarine. Pear. Plum. I Rich, moist soil, or Grafting on stock cool, sandy soil, of | from pips, or on medium consist- . Paradise stocks ency. | from layers for dwarf trees, Cor- dons, &c., or on Doucin or French Stocks also from layers. Clay soil, open and Budding on plum calcareous, and stocks, not deep. March and Standard, Pyra- Any aspect; does April. mid, Espalier, i.e.,' best in open, trained with hori- zontal branches on stakes or wire Single or Double Cordon, also hori- zontal. July and August. Dry and light sandy (i) By budding on loam on dry sub-l small stock or St. soil, or chalky soil! Lucie Plum, with chalk subsoil. (2) By grafting with Cleft or Crown graft on wild cherry stock. Open soil, deep, Budding on plum J fairly consistent, stock, calcareous, and not too moist. 1) July & August. 2) March. uly. Pyramid in Any aspect from Orchard House ; east (by south) to Fan or Oblique west. Cordon on wall. Standard,Pyramid, Any aspect, but Double Vertical! chiefly east, west, Cordon, Single and south for Oblique Cordon trained trees, and Fan. Pyramid or bush in South-east is best, Orchard House; but any aspect Fan and Single! from east to south- Oblique Cordon west will do. on wall. Deep clay soil, con- (i) Grafting on taining flints, cool, i stocks from pips but not too moist.! or on quince stocks. (2) By budding on smaller stock. ;i) Marc and April. 2) August. :h Standard, Pyramid, Espalier, Fan, branches horizon- tal ; Vertical and Oblique Cordon, single and double. Clay soil, open and (i) Budding on (i) July, calcareous, and plum stock. not deep. (2) Grafting- on (2) March. i plum stock. Any aspect, but east and wet»t are most suitable for trees trained on walls. Standard, Pyramid, Any aspect, but Fan, and Single chiefly east, west, Vertical and Ob- lique Cordon. and south for trained trees. training specified above will be described I grow one or more fuchsias. In fact, it has each under its own heading. I become quite a window plant, and no FUCHSIA. 201 FUCHSIAS, HARDY. plant is better adapted for the purpose. Nothing can be more graceful either in form or flower than noble plants of the fuchsia. They have a grace and beauty peculiar to themselves ; and their price is sufficiently low, and their culture easy and simple enough, to bring them within the reach of all. Plants that have been at rest during the winter may be started in January, and large early-flowering speci- mens produced by cutting down the old plants and shaking the roots out of the old soil as soon as they have broken, repotting them in a good, rich compost, with sufficient drainage. Strike cuttings for bedding plants as soon as the shoots are long enough. Propagation. — Cuttings should be in- serted in pots filled either with loam and leaf mould, or peat and silver sand, in equal parts, to within an inch and a half of the top. Place over this three-quarters of an inch of silver sand, and level the surface to make it firm ; then insert the cuttings — about I inch long is the proper length — and plunge the pots in a bottom heat of 60°, either in a pit or propagating house ; if the latter, cover them with a bell- glass. In three weeks they may be potted into 3-inch pots, and replunged in the same bed, keeping them at a temperature of from 50° to 60°. As soon as the roots reach the sides of the pots, the plants should be shifted into fresh pots, until they receive their final shift into 6, 9, or 12-inch pots, towards the end of June. The size of the pot must be regulated by the period when they are wanted to bloom. If in July, a 6 or 9-inch pot will suffice ; if in September or October, a 12-inch will not be too large. Stopping and training. — During the period of growth, the plants will require stopping at least six ti.nes, care being taken never to stop the shoots immediately preceding or directly after the operation of shifting into larger pots. If the pyramidal form of growth, which is the best of all forms for the fuchsia, is adopted, the plants, from the first, must be trained to a single , stem, and all the side shoots stopped, to make the pyramid thick and perfect. If the bush form is wanted, the whole of the shoots should then be stopped at every third joint, until branches enough are secured to form the bush, and then be trained into the desired shape. Temperature, &c. — A regular, moist, genial temperature must be maintained during the entire period of growth, never exceeding 60° by fire heat. During bright sunshine, the glass should be slightly shaded with tiffany or other material ; the delicate leaves are easily injured, and the plant should never receive the slightest check by being allowed to flag. Soil and Watering.— Fuchsias, while having their preferences, will grow in almost any soil. Garden loam and leaf mould, in equal proportions, with some broken charcoal and sand, do very well. Feeding them with manure water is pre- ferable to mixing manure with the soil. After they are well rooted, they should never be watered with clear water. A carefully - shaded conservatory, guarded against the ingress of bees, is the best place for them when in blossom. In such a situation they will continue in bloom for three months, if the seeds are constantly picked off. Fuchsias, Hardy. These make the best show when planted together in beds upon a lawn, the colours being judiciously blended. Those fuchsias which trail upon the ground should be jrown with a wire hoop, supported by three legs underneath them, so that their branches may be made to bend over the hoop. Several of the more hardy sorts FUMIGATION. 202 FUNKIA. may be trained on one stem, so as to appear as standards in the bed. Many varieties of the fuchsia are hardy, and will stand our winters in the open ground, especially in a well-drained light soil, having a large portion of peat in it ; and a great many that are looked upon as tender varieties will be preserved if covered 3 or 4 inches with dry cinder ashes at the first approach of frost. The best plan is to cover the whole fuchsia bed at that time with a good coating. The dead branches should not be cut off, nor should the ashes be removed until the fuchsias begin to shoot in the spring. Fumigation, Easy Mode of. The following simple method of fumiga- tion is recommended by a writer in "Gar- dening Illustrated " :— " To kill green fly on plants, take a short tobacco pipe and attach to the stem any length of indiarubber tubing, the size of a feeding-bottle tube ; fill the bowl three parts full of strong tobacco, light it, place a piece of muslin or flannel over the bowl, and holding the end of the pipe about 2 inches from the place affected, blow through the tube, when such a dense volume of smoke is emitted from the bowl that in the course of thirty seconds the insects will drop dead or can be shaken off. Great care should be taken that no juice falls on the foliage, or it will destroy it." The writer says that he has used this method with complete success for years, and it beats everything he is acquainted with for cheapness and effectiveness when single plants require fumigating. Further, Samuel Wood, in his "Modern Window Gardening," recommends the following method of fumigating plants, stating it to be especially applicable to calceolarias, which are especially liable to be infested by green fly when placed in the window or conservatory. He says : — "As soon as their presence is detected, the plants, in a dry state, should be placed in tight box or tub, which must also be quite dry. If the box be deep enough, the plants may be placed upright in it ; if not, they may be laid down. TJjis done, take half an ounce of tobacco paper, which costs one penny, and will be enough to cleanse a dozen plants ; light the tobacco and place it in the bottom, and then as quickly as possible cover the top over with a close damp cloth of some kind, and let the plants remain in for an hour, when they may be taken out and the foliage syringed or watered with a fine rose water pot. Repeat as often as may be necessary, or dust the plant over with tobacco powder when the green fly appears." Fuinigators. See Bellows, Fumigating ; Bellows, Dusting. Funkia (not. ord. Lilia'cese). A^ genus of fine, hardy, herbaceous plants, suitable some for the shrubbery and others for the border and rockwork. They are remarkable for their broad leaves and spikes of ball-shaped flowers, mostly white, with a tinge of lilac. They require soil that has been well dug and enriched with manure. They are propagated by division of the crowns and roots at any time from December to March. The best known are Funkia grandiflora or Japo- nica and F. Sieboldiana. j/7 '--f a loose, porous character, or wet and marshy, and, therefore, not calculated to fford a solid basis to the pathway, it is a GARDEN PATHS. GARDEN PATHS. good plan to make the trench deeper, and to lay faggots or brushwood in the bottom as recommended for roadmaking, before throwing in the rough rubbish. The faggoting not only furnishes a firm and desirable foundation for the pathway, but it also helps to drain the ground on either side of the walk, carrying it off to the lowest part, if the walk slopes from higher ground to lower. Solid Facing. — In some cases it may be desirable to have a solid facing to a garden walk, so that it may be im- pervious to rain, and in this case it is of importance that the surface of the walk should be rounded — higher in the centre and sloping down on either side. The water will escape into the earth or turf by which the walk is bordered, or, if desired, a gutter can be formed to carry the water to a tank made for its re- ception in some part of the garden. The gutter may be moulded in the material of which the path is made, or it may be con- structed below the surface, like a drain, and hidden from view. In this case, gratings should be inserted along the edge of the path at intervals, to allow of the escape of the water into the gutter. Asphalte for Surface. — In making a path with a solid surface, resort may be had to one or other of three different kinds, namely, asphalte paving, tar paving, and concrete paving. Asphalte pavement consists of a surface of asphalte or bitumen, brought to a semi-fluid condition by means of heat, and spread over a con- crete bed. Such a pavement as tbis requires special plant and special skill in its construction, and should not be entrusted to men who are unaccustomed to the work. Tar Pavement. — Tar pavement may be easily laid by ordinary labourers, although it is better to leave even this to practised hands. The surface of the walk must be skimmed off to the deptn of 3 or 4 inches, and the new surface thus exposed should be consolidated by beating. Some thick coal tar must now be poured over a heap of shingle or coarse grave/, and the whole worked together with a spade or crooked fork until the gravel is thoroughly im- pregnated with the tar. 1 his composition must be spread over the beaten surface and rolled down with a heavy roller. Another mixture must now be made of tar and finer gravel, or sifted ashes from the dustbin, and a thin layer spread over the layer of rougher stuff first put on. Fine sand or gravel must then be sprinkled freely over the top of this, and the whole once more rolled with the roller. This material forms an excellent walk, but if laid down in a situation that is fully exposed to the sun's rays, it is apt to " give " in summer-time. Concrete Pavements. — Concrete pave- ment is put down in the following manner : The earth is first removed from the surface of the path to the depth of 8 or 9 inches, and the shallow trench thus made is filled up to about two-thirds or three-fourths of its whole depth with stones, broken brick- bats, and coarse gravel, well rammed together, so as to present a level surface. Portland cement must now be mixed in a tub with water, until it is of the consistence of thick cream or custard, and poured over the gravel. This must be spread about with a bass broom to level the surface, and send it into the interstices of the first rough coat of stones and gravel. On this a coating of Portland cement and gravel, mixed with water, must be spread, bringing the surface very nearly up to the height of the path; and when this has hardened, % finishing coat must be put on, composed of clean, sharp sand and Portland cement in equal parts, and brought, when mixed with water, to the consistence of mortar. The surface must be rounded and brought GARDEN PATHS. 20€ GARDEN TOOLS. to smoothness by the aid of a float — a piece of wood with a handle at the back, something like the flatiron used by laun- dresses, but larger, with which plasterers finish the surface of walls and ceilings. No one should be allowed to tread on the surface of a walk thus made until it is perfectly dry and hard. Cost of Walks. — The cost of garden walks may be estimated as follows, at per square yard : The ordinary gravel walk, when properly made, at is. 8d. ; tar pavement, consisting of gravel mixed with tar and sprinkled with sand, at 2s. gd. ; and concrete pavement, consisting of con- crete faced with cement, at 33. 6d. Asphalte pavement, at a rough computa- tion, ranges from 55. to 153. per square yard, the cost being regulated by the thickness of the coating of asphalte and the concrete substratum below, and the greater the area covered, in some cases, the lower is the cost. It costs more to lay asphalte pavement in the country than it does in London, on account of the carriage of materials. The above prices, it must be understood, are approximate only. Grass IValks. — Occasionally it is neces- sary, in cases where a piece of garden ground is acquired at some little distance from the house, either for temporary pur- poses, or as a means of extending the garden accommodation at the house itself, which in the outskirts of many towns is but limited, to form the garden paths of turf, which is cleanly in itself, and sufficient for all practical purposes when the garden is not a daily resort. If the land is grass land, then nothing more need be done than to mark out the beds and plots to be devoted to the growing of fruit and vegetables, and to turn and trench these parts, leaving the turf between them to form the paths. It can easily be kept short with a mowing machine, and by constant cutting will become a close and verdant carpet. If the garden be on arable land, as the cost of turf is no more than 3d. per square yard, it will be as well, if the season of the year be favourable, to mark out the paths and proceed at once to lay them down with turf. Many pieces of land to be let or sold for building purposes are previously utilised as gardens, and by having paths of turf there is less loss if the land has to be given up on short notice. Perfect dryness is of the utmost im- portance for walks, as they should be clean and comparatively impenetrable in FIG. 2.— WALK BE- LOW GENERAL LEVEL. FIG. 3. — WALK ABOVE GENERAL LEVEL. FIG. 4. — WALK LEVEL WITH SURFACE OF GROUND. all weathers and at all seasons. Although some recommend walks to be sunk below the general level, as in Fig. 2, and others above it, as in Fig. 3, yet walks generally look best on a level with the surface, as in Fig. 4. When thus constructed, they must be sunk half an inch at the edge, to leave this height of verge, which ought never to be exceeded in pleasure ground walks. Walks themselves should also b^ nearly level, half an inch being sufficient convexity for a lo-feet walk. The wider the walk the smaller is the permissible rise in the centre, as nothing detracts more from the appearance of a gravel walk, of say 15 or 20 feet, than variations in the level of its surface. Garden Tools. The different sorts of tools necessary for GARDEN USE. 207 GARDEN WALLS. gardening purposes will be found described under their respective names, the most useful varieties pointed out, and the approximate prices given at which they are usually supplied. Garden Use, Baskets for. See Baskets for Garden Use. Garden Walls -Materials. The materials of which garden walls are formed will always depend upon local circumstances; brick, stone, clay, chalk, and oak fencing, being all in common use. Of all these materials, brick seems to be the favourite, absorbing most heat, being the best for training and the most en- during. Forsyth says, '* Where brick cannot be had, it is better to dispense with walls altogether and adopt wood." Whinslone, a species of basalt rock common in the northern counties, is reckoned next for these qualities, while its close grain rejects moisture. Form, &c. — It has been a question whether inclined or vertical walls are most favourable to the produce of wall-fruit. Zigzag walls, and walls with deep recesses, have also been experimented on; and, latterly, glass walls, which, after all, only amount to an arcade inclosed with glass and lined with vines, fruit-trees, and exotics — an arrangement that is beautiful to look on without doubt, but one which will certainly cost more than it is worth, and can only be regarded as an expensive luxury that will never afford remuneration for the outlay expended on it. Cheap Wall. — An economical wall i< sometimes constructed of bricks laid as stretchers on each side, as shown ir section in Fig. i, the space betweer being filled up with concrete similar to that prepared for the foundation, which in all cases is best made of concrete. This concrete adheres to the brickwork headers, or bricks across, are used >ccasionally as bonds, to hold the two iides together. A solid wall of 13^ inches, >r even 18 inches, if built in this manner, would require, roughly speaking, the brmer only two-thirds of the quantity of )ricks employed in building a solid wall of brick, and the latter not more than one lalf, while the cost of the concrete is com- paratively trifling. In countries where )rick is not easily obtained, a very good wall may be constructed with a brick in ront, and stone behind, where one front •1G. I. — WALL FILLED WITH CONCRETE. FIG. 2.— END OF 18-INCH WALL. only is required for use. In Fig. I a section of a wall 18 inches, or two bricks thick, is shown, faced on each side with brick, and filled with concrete, and in Fig. 2 an end of the same wall. The introduction of hollow bricks is supposed to be conducive to dryness and free ventilation, while it greatly reduces the pressure on the foundation ; but it does not appear that we have any great experience as to its result on garden walls. Stone walls for gardens should be built in courses of 4 or 8 inches thick ; the stones GARDEN WALLS. 208 GARDENING FOR CITIES. hammer-dressed on the external surface, the mortar bed not too thick, and the joints pointed and drawn clean. In stone walls — perhaps in brick walls also — copper or iron nails with eyes should be let into the interstices of the wall, to tie down the branches of the fruit-trees, taking care that they are let in with the eye close to the wall ; for the radiation of heat from the wall is in proportion to its distance, and the heat which is i° a foot off the wall, is 144° when in contact with it. The advantage of the eyed nails consists in preserving the wall. Thread dipped in pyroligneous acid, or flexible wire, may be used for the purpose. The chief difficulty in the use of eyes in a stone or brick wall arises when they happen to. have been driven in at equal intervals horizontally and vertically after the wall is built and before the trees are in situ or ready for training. It is better to insert the eyes when engaged in training trees, as then the eyes may be put in exactly where they are wanted. It is better to strain wires along walls, pulling them as close to the surface as possible, for the reasons given, then to tie down the branches to eyes. Hollow walls are only found in gardens of lofty pretensions, where very high culti- vation is adopted ; and we have reason to believe that in many quarters where they exist they are rarely used. Besides brick and stone, chalk, clay, and earth mixed with straw to make it bind, have been sometimes employed in erecting garden walls successfully. In each instance the process is pretty nearly the same. A foundation being obtained, a wooden frame is prepared and laid down on each side, of the exact thickness of the intended walls. Into this frame chalk, of clay, or earth mixed with straw, previously worked into a thick paste, is thrown in layers about 6 inches thick all round. The layer thus placed is made level by raking, and rammed down hard with* a rammer. . It is then left to settle and consolidate before the next layer is put on. In this way the work proceeds layer by layer, until the intended height is attained, when a coping of stone or other material is bedded on it with cement or mortar. Gardener's Cottage. Almost every garden requires some buildings, the construction of which may serve to call into exercise the good taste of its proprietor. When the grounds are of sufficient extent, the gardener's cottage should be contained within them, and the proper situation of this will be as near as possible to the hothouses and melon- grounds. This cottage should be in keep- ing with the mansion and its lodges. It should be so arranged as to contain within it the fruit-room, of which a description has already been given under that title, and a store-room for seeds. In this store- room all seeds may be dried, cleaned and put away. There should be a table in the centre, and dressers round the room ; drawers and nests should be provided for the different seeds and bulbs. One or two cross-beams in the roof will be very handy, for, when provided with hooks, all pod seeds can be hung up and dried ; onions also, in ropes or bunches, can be suspended from them. Sieves, bags, a quire of coarse brown paper, and a ball of string, with a packing needle, are essential requisites h) such a store-room ; a small hand threshing- machine and a small fanning or winnowing - machine also will be found very con- venient. Gardening for Smoky Cities and Large Towns. It is well known to every one that the vapour arising from substances in a state of combustion, which is usually termed smoke, is very prejudicial to vegetable GARDENING FOR CITIES. 209 GARDENING FOR CITIES. life. Without taking into consideration the deadly effects arising from the diffusion of smoke generated in certain factories — more especially chemical works — which is fatal in proportion to the nature of the substances employed, and from which the smoke is evolved, it is sufficient for the gardener to have to combat smoke arising from ordinary coal-furnaces and the thou- sands of chimneys for domestic use which surmount our crowded dwellings. Smoke of this sort is generally considered to con- sist of two parts — gaseous exhalations and certain minute particles of carbonaceous matter called soot. Both these constituents are capable of producing more or less injury to the bark, leaves, and blossoms of what- ever trees, shrubs, and plants are brought into contact with them. Soot, applied as a manure to the soil, is a decided fertiliser, or perhaps it would be more correct to call it a stimulant to vegetation ; but this is a very different application of soot from that with which vegetation is treated, when it is found struggling for existence against the dense masses of soot which are emitted from the chimneys of our populous cities and large towns. The gaseous vapours charged with soot form a black gummy coating over the stems and leaves, which prevents the respiratory organs of plants from performing their proper functions for the support of life. Of course it would be as useless as it would be foolish, under such unfavourable circumstances, to attempt the cultivation of all sorts of shrubs and plants indiscriminately ; but it should be a matter of thankfulness that some sorts will grow, and that experience has pointed out those which will flourish and do best. It is necessary, therefore, to know what trees, plants, and flowers flourish best ; and such knowledge, to begin with, will be the means of saving much trouble, disappoint- ment, and expense. The following remarks are intended to be of service to those who are not unwilling to attempt what at all times must be re- garded as " gardening under difficulties '* ; but with what good results the attempt may be made let the Temple Gardens testify. Yet we venture to affirm that the great earl saw nothing half so gay around him as may be now seen in the same spot, notwith- standing dirt and soot. To the late Mr. Broome, the intelligent superintendent of these ancient gardens, all who live in smoky cities, and who still love flowers, owe a deep debt of gratitude. He has shown what may be done, and he has also left on record his own experience as to the best mode of doing it. "Fresh from the country," writes Mr. Broome, "having received initiation into the mysteries of my profession in the gardens of one of the wealthiest of our nobility, I was but little prepared for the difference which exists between the growth of plants in the country and in large towns. Those which in the pure air of the former grew almost spon- taneously would, notwithstanding the pains bestowed upon them, barely arrive at maturity in the smoky atmosphere of the latter. My previous experience availed me but little ; I had almost everything to unlearn; however," he continues, "I set about my task with diligence, coupled with patience and perseverance, and have been rewarded by a complete triumph over all such difficulties as were not insuperable." Some persons, perhaps, may imagine that outdoor gardening under such adverse circumstances can hardly repay the trouble that must be bestowed upon it, and that the subject loses its interest because there are not many persons who have much opportunity or convenience for availing themselves of it, so small a space in general being alloted in most cities and large towns to each house beyond the plot of ground which it actually stands upon. But why should even the smallest court- GARDENING FOR CITIES. 210 GARDENING FOR CITIES. yard not be turned to the best account? Why should any open space be deprived of a green tree, a few shrubs and plants and flowers, to ornament it ? Why should the back drawing-room, as is so often the case even in good houses, have nothing better to look out upon than bare walls and a dirty pavement ? It should be observed that turf grows well under the influence of smoke, that trellis-work will hide any un- sightly object, and the large quick-growing Irish Ivy (Hedera Canariensis} will soon cover a wall; a light verandah, also, at the drawing-room windows may be made available for creepers. The common nas- turtium will do well, and so will the different varieties of tropseolum, also Tro- pceolum Canarienses ; but care must be taken that they do not suffer from drought, for drought in a smoky atmosphere is far more injurious to plants than it is where the air is clear and pure. The following list will be found to con- tain most of the trees, shrubs, herbaceous plants, and annuals, at present introduced into this country, which are not so sus- ceptible of the injurious influences of a vitiated atmosphere as many others, and which are consequently suitable for our cities and large towns : — Acer pseudo-platanus, or Sycamore. ,, rubrum, or Swamp Maple. Achillea lingulata. Aucuba japonica. ^sculus hippocastanum, or Horse Chestnut. Ageratum. Alyssum. Ampelopsis hederacea, or Virginian Creeper. Amygdalus communis, or Sweet Almond. Antirrhinum, or Snapdragon. Aristotelia Macqui. Artemisia abrotunum, or Southernwood. Aster, varieties of. Betula alba, or Common White Birch. Bignonia radicans. Calceolarias. ." Carnations. Chrysanthemum, all varieties of. Clematis flamula. „ montana. „, vitalba, or Traveller's Joy. Cornus mascula, or Cornel. ,, sanguinea. Crataegus oxycantha, or Commen Hawthorn, and varieties. Crocus. Cytisus laburnum, or Common Laburnum. „ alpinus, or Scotch Laburnum. ,, scoparius, or Common Broom. Dahlias. Daisies. Daphne Mezereum. Dracocephalum. Enpnymus Europaeus. or Spindle Tree. Epilobium angustifolium, or Willow Herb. Fagus sylvatica, or Common Beech. Foxglove. Fraxinus, or Ash, all varieties of. Genista, or Sweet Almond. German Stocks. Gladiolus. Heartsease. Hedera Helix, or Common Ivy, and varieties. Helleborus niger, or Christmas Rose. Hollyhocks. Hypericum calycinum.orSt. John's Wort, large variety. Hypericum elatum. Ilex aquifolium, or Holly, and varieties. Jasminum, officinale, or Common Jasmine. Juglans regia, or Walnut. Lavender. Lily of the Valley. Lycium Barbarum, or Box Thorn. Magnolia grandiflora. ,, conspicua. „ glauca. Mahonia aquifolia, or prickly-leaved Barbary or Berbers. Mespilus Germanica, or Common Medlar. Mignonette. Mimulus. Norus nigra, or Common Black Mulberry. Negundo fraxinifolium, or Ash-leaved Maple. Philadelphus grandiflorus, or Syringa. Phillyrea, all varieties. Phlomis fruticosa, or Jerusalem Sage. Phloxes, all hardy varieties. Pinks. Polyanthus. Populus fastigrata, or Lombardy Poplars. ,, nigra, or Black Poplar. Pyrus aucuparia, or Mountain Ash. Rhamnus alaternus, or Buckthorn. Rhododendron ponticum. Rhus typhina, or Fever Sumach. „ cotinus, or Wild Olive. Robinia pseud-acacia, or Common Acacia, Rockets. Roses— Maiden's Blush. M Provence. „ Rose de Meaux. Rubus, or Bramble, varieties of. Salix, or Willow, varieties of. Sambucus nigra, or Elder. Santolina chamse-cyparissus, or Ground Cy press. Scarlet geraniums. Snowdrop. Sophora Japonica. Spartium junceum, or Spanish Broom. Staphylea trifolia, or Bladder Nut. ,, pinnata. Sunflower. GARDENING FOR CITIES. 211 GARDENING FOR CITIES. Sweetwilliams. Symphoricarpos racemosus. Syringa, all varieties. Taxus baccata, or Common Yew. ,, fastigiata. Thuja occidentalis, or American Arbor Vitae. ,, orientalis, or Chinese Arbor Vitae. Tulips, all sorts. Ulmus, or Elm, all sorts. Verbenas, varieties. Viburnum opulus, or Guelder Rose. Vinca major, or Periwinkle. Virginian Stock. Wallflowers. Wistaria sinensis. And most of the common hardy annuals. The above list is sufficient for every purpose of ornament and brightness of appearance. In so long a list it must be obvious that some things will do better than others ; but all are worth planting, as all have been known to live in a smoky atmosphere. Of trees, the plane, which sheds its bark annually, and the poplar in its different varieties, are decidedly the best where the air is most charged with soot. Besides chrysanthemums, as we learn from the late Mr. Broome, a very fair display may be obtained throughout the year of other hardy flowers which will thrive in London smoke, and may be grown with success in most of the squares and small gardens in large cities and towns. " I here give," continues that great autho- rity, " my thirty years' practical experience of what I have found to succeed, and keep up a succession of flowers through the year. As a winter flower, the Christmas rose (Helleborus niger) does very well. Snowdrops, too, bloom very freely. Next comes the crocus and tulips, of different colours : these do remarkably well, and if planted in October, in beds or good-sized patches, will, in March or April, make quite a show, and form a pleasing mixture with the common primrose. " In the middle of February sew round the crocuses a good quantity of Virginian stock, purple and white alternately; the leaf of the crocus shelters the young stock from the frost and cold March winds ; and when the crocus has done blooming, either cut the leaves off or twist them round, and give them a tie to allow the Virginian stock fair play. This comes in succession to the crocus, and when sown in large patches in beds has a very pretty effect. I generally plant a large quantity of the common wall- flower, choosing the darkest varieties. These flower a long time, and smell very sweet. They should be planted rather deep, and require a good quantity of water, or they soon flag. The gladiolus is a very excellent bulb for town borders, if planted in March in a strong loam, leaf- mould, and rotten dung, and plenty of water when the hot weather sets in. The daffodil and narcissus do very well. Next come the white candytuft and the yellow alyssum, which bloom at the same time. These strike from cuttings in the summer, and keep in a cold frame all the winter. Next comes the 2ris Germanica and the rocket. Daisies and heartsease do well, and flower a long time. The calceolaria does exceedingly well, and flowers all the summer. Cuttings of these should be put in a cold frame in October, and merely require the frost to be kept from them. I peg them down like verbenas, instead of stopping them. The result of this is that I obtain an earlier bloom : they throw out their laterals quite as well, and the wind is prevented from breaking them off. . . . When it is very hot, throw round the roots a little mulch or mould, to keep their flowers from drooping. Intermediate stocks do very well, and flower all the summer : these I sow in September, under a handglass. When old enough, prick out three or four plants in No. 48 pots, in a compost of loam and a little rotten dung, taking care that they do not get too much wet. In November put them in cold frames for the winter, never watering except they flag, and plant out in February, as they GARDENING FOR CITIES. 2T2 GARDENING FOR CITIES. will bear a little frost. Scarlet geraniums de very well. The Ageratum Mexicanum does very well. I put in cuttings in October, which I manage to keep through the winter. You may also put in cuttings of this in the spring, which will flower very early. Verbenas flower well all the summer, but are difficult to keep through the winter, as they damp off in December and January for want of better air. The dark clove-carnation is very hardy and flowers beautifully. These I propagate by hundreds in the autumn, potting some in cold frames, and letting others remain out of doors. The sweet will Jam, lupinus, polyphyllus, scabiosa, antirrhinum, poly- anthus, foxglove, and lily of the valley do remarkably well. The fuchsia, if planted in a cold shady place in summer, flowers tolerably well, but must be attended to in watering, or the flower drops before opening. Plant them in leaf-mould, rotten dung, and yellow loam. If the weather is very hot and dry, cover the .surface with a little rough rotten dung. The mimulus is a famous town flower, but requires plenty of water. Some of the hardy phloxes do pretty well. The double rocket flowers freely, and if the first bloom is taken off when faded, the plant will bloom again as freely as ever ; but it re- quires a great deal of water. I would recommend nearly all the common hardy annuals, especially branching larkspur, the Phlox Drummondii, lupinus, coreopsis, &c. Balsams do very well if the seed is sown in a little hotbed, supposing you have the convenience to make one ; it will also answer for china-asters, and when ready to be planted, mix plenty of leaf mould and rotten dung in the borders for them, as they do not bloom freely without a rich compost, and being abundantly supplied »vith water. Have nothing to do with tender annuals : they are poor, sickly- looking plants for town gardening. The common pinks do exceedingly well. The willow-herb (Epilobium angustifolium) is a very showy common flower, and will grow anywhere. Mignonette does well. Sow it for early blooming in January, in a little heat in 48-pots, in light mould to turn out. There are numbers of herbaceous plants that do very well, such as the Michaelmas daisy (aster), double sun- flower, Achillea lingulata, Dracocephalum speciosum, sea-lavender (Statice latifolia), and all hardy plants of this class. The common English ferns thrive very well in shady parts, by watering every day in hot, dry weather. Plant them in leaf mould, loam, and common sand, and mix with them a few plants of periwinkle and some rock -work ; but be careful not to disturb them while forking up the borders. Holly- hocks do very indifferently, and are not worth trying. Dahlias do exceedingly well if well supplied with water, and carefully thinned as they advance in size. They ought to be planted very early in the spring to get an early bloom ; as they are not required in September, the chrysan- themum taking their place, I generally- cut them down this month. Last year I pegged them down all the season, and kept them close to the ground by pruning, and they bloomed well. You ought to be particular in your selection not to purchase hard-eyed ones, as the ground becomes so hot and dry at the close of the summer, that they never bloom fully out. " Respecting shrubs and deciduous plants,' continues Mr. Broome, " few of these do any good. The lilac blooms very scantily, but does well for a screen, as it shows a little green in the summer. The Aucuba Japonica answers in sheltered places. The euonymus does very well in smoke, and retains its foliage ; but this year (1860) the severe winter has nearly destroyed it. This shows it is not so hardy as many other shrubs, and requires to be GARDENING FOR CITIES. 213 GARDENIA. covered with mats on very severe frosty nights. The box, holly, and privet thrive for two or three years"; rhododendrons flower freely for a season, with plenty of water, all through the summer. The hibiscus rose, or Althaa frutex, grows and flowers remarkably well. The Daphne Mezereum does well, and flowers freely, both white and pink. The dwarf roses, such as Rose de Meux, Cabbage, Provence, Maiden's Blush, York and Lancaster, are now doing tolerably well in these gardens, considering the murky atmosphere they grow in. I tried some dwarf standards, and they more than answered my expecta- tion, as, after planting them in good maiden loam, and attending to their watering, some bloomed all the season. Madame Laffay, Jacques Lafette, Mrs. Eliot, Geant de Batailles, William Jessey, Due d'Aumale, and several others, gave great satisfaction ; but, of course, they require attention in taking off the seed and in watering. It is something to have a rose at all in this smoky town. Those grown as dwarfs on their own stocks do much better than those worked on the briars. The higher they are from the ground, the more smoke they get on the stems ; consequently, dwarf plants near the ground are best. "As respects forest-trees nothing does so well as the oriental plane, in conse- quence of its shedding its bark every spring ; by so doing, it gets rid of the soot, which sticks to other trees like varnish, and which there is no getting off. You may train it to any habit you please by pruning, and the more confined it is, the better it does. The lime-trees do very badly; but the elm and thorn tolerably well. The Lombardy poplar is a capital tree for London. Irish ivy does very well where you want to cover a wall. The turf stands smoke as well as anything, and when the situation is open, looks remark- ably well. Hundreds of children treak and play and roll on the turt in the Temple Gardens every summer's evening, and when they are closed for the season, you would think it could never recover ; but in a few weeks, with a little rain and rest and a slight covering of fine mould, it springs up like a mushroom. Should there be any very bare places, I break it up three inches deep ; sow a little mixed lawn-grass, cover it over, roll it down, and it is up in three weeks if there comes an» rain. Under trees, I sow the Paris ever- lasting rye-grass, as that is stronger than the lawn-grass, and does better to trample on." Such is the practice in the Temple Gar dens, and every one who wishes to see what can be done in the way of gardening under the most untoward circumstances of atmosphere will do well to pay a visit to them. In the foregoing remarks the necessity of well watering has been insisted on, and it must be remembered that deep digging and plentiful manuring are not less essential in the sooty atmosphere of crowded towns. Every year the collected surface-soot should be buried by trenching about 18 inches deep, and a good dressing of manure bt worked in to renovate the soil. Gardenia (nat. ord. Rubia'cese). A genus of beautiful evergreen shrubs, suitable for the hothour.e or greenhouse, remarkable for their beautiful while sweet- scented flowers which are now much utilised as cut flowers. These plants require much heat and plenty of water when growing and coming into flower. Propagation is effected by cuttings, or rather shoots stripped from the plant with a heel, set in sandy peat well drained, and placed in a propagating frame with a bottom heat >etween 70° and 80°. The best knowr, are Gardenia florida, also called Cape Jes samine, and G. radicans. GARLIC. 214 GATES. Garlic. This bulb, which, from of its odour and pungency the strength of its taste, clove of garlic cut in two. In planting, the cloves should be set separately. Garnishing, Herbs for. These are handsome in growth, and use- ful for domestic purposes. Among them we may enumerate the ice-plant, the curled mallow, Melville's garnishing borecole, triple curled cress and parsley. Gates. For single gates across a carriage road, across a pathway, or anywhere else, those shown in Figs, i and 2, being of an orna- mental character, will be found appropriate. The number of bars and patterns of such gates can be made to suit every purpose requires to be used in small quantities, and gratify every taste. On carriage roads, is propagated, planted, and managed in gates should never be less than four, and precisely the same manner as the shallot, ! seldom need be more than 6 feet in which sec. A number of bulblets, tech- j height, 5 feet being an excellent average, nically known as " cloves," are found j The construction of these gates cannot be grouped together in one whitish integu- ment, or capsule, which holds them, as it were, within a sack. A clove inserted in described at length here, but the principle involved are explained by the sketches themselves, from which any carpenter of B the knuckle of a shoulder or leg of mutton ! average intelligence, or any amateur who imparts a slight flavour to the whole joint, ! can use a saw, plane, hammer, and chisel, might easily make them. Gates may be of wood or iron as preferred. As a general rule, they should always be in harmony with the character of the fence. Occasionally, however, in pleasure grounds, where a rabbit -proof fence is hidden with shrubs, the gate spanning FIG x the walk may be much better and and a rump steak is much improved by more elegant than the fence, of a character being placed and eaten on a plate that has similar to that shown in Fig. 3. Beautiful been rubbed over for the purpose with a gates of this description are now supplied GENISTA. 215 GERANIUM. by the Coalbrooke Dale Company in Shropshire, from whom, as well as from ^ther manufacturers, gates may be had profuse-flowering hardy shrubs, equally valuable for the decoration of the conser- vatory, flower - borders, and shrubbery ; having for the most part yellow pea-shaped flowers, which come in clusters at the end of the branches. Their general culture is the same as that of the cytisus, ivhich see. Gentia'na (not. ord. Gentia'nese). All the gentians are beautiful. Gentiana aeaulis, with its large deep mazarine-blue blossoms, looks well as an edging plant. It requires a pure air and rich light soil. They are propagated by seeds sown when ripe, and by division of the roots. The seeds should be sown in fine loam mixed with sand, and should not be too deeply covered. If sprinkled on the surface of j the compost, and a little mould strewn in iron in more or less elaborate styles, i over the seeds when sown, it will be sufTi- according to price. Lodge or entrance ! cient. The seeds are very long in ger- gates are most effective in pairs, as in minating. They require no bottom heat Fig. 4. They should neither be too massive nor loo light — of sufficient width to prevent anxiety about wheels or posts ; an elegant pattern, strong con- struction, and a colour that can be easily discerned at night. Nothing can equal, in ultimate economy, nor exceed in use- fulness and beauty., a well- raised, carefully-hung pair of wrought-iron or protection beyond the exclusion of frost, gates, 10 or 12 feet wide, and painted a The gentians are impatient of root division light stone Colour, or in imitation of bronze, and indeed of transplanting, and when once established in any position the plants Genis'ta (nat. ord. Legumino'sae). The genistas are exceedingly ornamental should be allowed to remain where they are. Gentiana acaulis, or Gentianella, is less liable to suffer from division of the roots than other varieties, but even with this it is best to plant out seedlings. Gera'nium (nat. ord. Gerania'cese). These well-known floral favourites are not less indispensable for outdoor than for indoor decoration. No plants are uni- GERANIUM. 216 GERANIUMS. vers*lly cultivated, and ol none are there greater varieties. Wiih regard to classification, although the term "geranium" can be taken to cover both sections of plants to which the names geranium and pelargonium are usually applied, yet the former is more gen- erally assigned to the hardier sorts, mostly self-coloured, being white, salmon, scarlet, cerise, &c., and single and double, while the latter gathers under it all the show varieties of which the two upper petals are generally distinct in colour and markings from the three below. Many of the GENTIANELLA. varieties of the geraniums are distinguished by the beauty of their foliage, for which, i-ideed, they are chiefly prized. The fine- foliaged geraniums comprise Golden Tri- colors, Silver Tricolors, Tricolor variegated, varieties with ornamental foliage, such as "Happy Thought" and "Freak of Na- ture," heavily blotched with white, Golden Bronze, Yellow-Leaved and White-Edged varieties, Zonal, Ivy-Leaved, and Mottled varieties, with a long train of double varieties distinguished by their colour, which each comprise so many distinct sorts that they can only be described and named in the catalogues of nurserymen who grow them on a large and extended scale. The pelargoniums are well-nigh as numerous in their groups, including French Spotted and Early Flowering varieties, Fancy Pelargoniums for exhibition, both large flowering and small flowering, and the magnificent Hybrid Double Regals of recent introduction. Geraniums : Bedding Varieties. Striking Cuttings. — It is desirable, and indeed necessary, that cuttings of all sorts of geraniums for bedding the following year should be struck early : from the last week in July to the end of the first week in August is very good time. They should be taken in dry weather, when the parent plant has had no water for some days, and they should be kept to dry twenty-four hours after they have been prepared for potting. The more succulent sorts, and any that appear difficult to strike, may with advantage be touched at the end with a small paint brush dipped in collodion, which will serve to hasten the callus which the cutting must form before it will throw out roots. They may be potted four or six in a pot, according to size. It is essential that the pots be well fitted with drainers, that the soil be light and sandy, and that it be pressed tight round the joint of the cuttings, which should be buried in it as flat as possible. When potted, they may be sunk in the ground on a south border, and well watered in the evening, when the sun is off. They will require no shading, except the sun be very scorching ; and, in this case, they must not be kept from the light, but merely screened from the scorch- ing rays of the sun. They may flag a little, but this is of no importance ; in two or three days they will recover, and put forth roots. If they grow too freely before it is time to take them in for the winter, the top shoots should be broken off, and in this way they will make strong bushy plants. Preservation of Old Plants through the Winter. — Take them out of the borders in autumn, before they have received any injury from frost, and let this be done on a dry day. Shake off all the earth from their roots, and suspend them, with their heads GERANIUMS. 217 GERANIUMS. downwards, in a cellar or dark room, where they will be free from frost. The leaves and shoots will become yellow and sickly ; but when potted about the end of May, and exposed to a gentle heat, they will recover and vegetate luxuriously. The old plants, stripped of their leaves, may also be packed closely in sand ; and in this way, if kept free from frost, they will shoot out from the roots, and may be repotted in the spring. Geraniums from Seed. Provided that good seed can be obtained, and this can be done without much difficulty if application be made to any good seeds- man and grower, the following directions from the pen of Mr. Shirley Hibberd will be of use. " If you have plenty of glass," he says, " and can keep a few hundred small plants through the winter, sow the seed as soon as ripe, and in due time, pot the plants in the smallest pots, and winter them in a warm house near the glass. If not well off in respect of glass, sow in February or March, place the seed pans in a gentle heat, and grow the plants all the summer in a greenhouse or frame, and get them into 6o-sized pots before the end of August. In the following March, shift them into 48-size, and as they fill these pots with roots, shift again to 32-size, and in this size let them newer ; they are to be allowed to grow as they please, no stop- ping, no pruning. In the course of the second summer — that is to say, in about fifteen months from the time the seed was sown — they will flower. All the seedlings should remain one full year in 32 -sized pots, and after that time should be shifted into 24-size, or otherwise disposed of as may be considered most expedient. The system of cultivation proposed will produce robust plants, varying from 2 to 5 feet high, with fine heads and abundance of flowers of ail colours. Geraniums : Show Pelargo- niums—Their Management. To secure profusion of bloom, early growth and under-potting are oi the first importance. No matter how robustly a plant is grown, one eighteen months old cannot be made to flower so freely as one four or five years old. Whether the close- ness of tissue, induced by age, modifies the nature of the sap during its passage or not, it is not possible to determine. It is pro- bable that the smallness of the vessels may influence, not only the quantity, but the quality of the sap. It is at least certain that age in this and many other species is favourable to profuse inflorescence. Early Growth, — This is of the most im- portance. Plants to flower in May should be cut down by the end of the previous June ; have broken, been reduced, repotted, and encouraged to grow 2 or 3 inches in a close" cold frame, for a fortnight, and have received their final stopping by the end of July, and be placed in their blooming pot by the 1st of November. Success depends upon their chief growth being completed before Christmas. No after management can compensate for the neglect of early growth. Any size of plant or leaf may be obtained at any period ; but the flower will be scarce unless early growth is secured. Under-Potting. — This is the next great point. Plants In general, and pelargo- niums in particular, flower best when they are pot-bound — that is, when the roots are trying with all their strength to burst the pot asunder. The energy they thus acquire appears to rush to the other extremity, and expend itself in flowers. Some varieties will scarcely flower at all unless their roots are in this condition. The reason seems to be, that whatever tends to check the extension of other parts, favours the development of flowers. The vital energies arrested in the formation of wood, concentrate their force GERMINATION. 218 GERMINATION. in the exhibition of bloom. It would appear as if the vital force in plants was not sufficiently powerful to carry on both these functions simultaneously. At all events, when one is most active, the other is almost passive, and tho power of the one is nearly always in the inverse ratio of the other : hence, whatever favours the pro- duction of wood (free, large potting, for instance) is unfavourable to the produc- tion of flower, and vice versti. Germination. In a state of nature all plants are propa- gated from seed, and the multifarious forms of the seeds and envelopes with which they are provided form one of the many interesting subjects of investigation to the lover of nature. For the present purpose it is sufficient to state that most seeds are covered with a hard shell or envelope, which protects them from external" injury, and that within the envelope lies the embryo plant. All seeds in this latent state contain an organ, or germ, which, under favourable circumstances, shoots up- wards, and becomes the stem of the plant ; another, called the Radicle, which seeks its place in the soil, and becomes the root ; and the seed-lobes, which yield nourish- ment to the young plant in its first stage of growth. Moisture, heat, and air are necessary conditions for the development of all seeds; and most of them require, in addi- tion, concealment from the light. These conditions are found in the open texture of well-pulverised garden soil, through which water percolates freely, and air follows, each yielding their quota of oxygen, hydro- gen, and carbon, in a gaseous state,, for the support of the plant. The great majority of plants cultivated in gardens are obtained by sowing the seeds in beds suited to their constitution, to be afterwards planted out where they are to grow and ripen their fruits, or seeds, or leaves. Leaves are the first outward sign of germination, and throughout its existence, next to the roots, the most important organ of a plant. The seed-leaves, as the buds which first appear above the ground are termed, arc of vital importance to the plant, and if destroyed prematurely, the young plant rarely re- covers ; therefore, the leaves of all young seedlings require protection from insects, worms, and slugs, their most dangerous enemies, as well as from severe weather. Germination, then, is the natural process by which the embryo of the seed placed in favourable circumstances — that is to say, surrounded by moisture and heat and FIG. I. — DIAGRAM ILLUSTRATING GERMINATION OF ACORN. shrouded in darkness — throws off its shell or covering, and in course of time becomes a vegetable, resembling that from which the seed was obtained. From the time that the acorn of the oak is placed in circumstances favourable to its germina- tion, it absorbs moisture, the cotyledon A (Fig. i) swells, the root or radicle P, i^ elongated, and the shell or envelope c is broken. The root issues by the fissure, and directs itself downwards into the earth ; the plumule D erects itself, is disengaged from the shell, and becomes the stem, while the cotyledons furnish food to the young plant, until the first leaves develop themselves and the spongioles of the roots GESNERAS. 219 GLADIOLUS. are capable of receiving nourishment from the earth. In plants with a soft covering, as the bean, the radicle A (Fig. 2) is directed to the outside of the seed ; it is the rudiment of the root, and this is the first part which develops itself in germinating. The FIG. 2. — FORMATION OF KIDNEY 11EAN. plumule B, on the contrary, ascends to- wards the centre of the grain, and becomes the stem, while the two cotyledons c, c, remain in the soil between the root and stem, yielding nourishment to the young plant until the root can perform that office. Gesne ras (nat. ord. Gesnera'cese). Showy hothouse tuberous-rooted and herbaceous plants mostly with scarlet flowers. They are propagated by increase of the tubers or by cuttings, which require a little bottom-heat, and should be placed in peat. The tubers should be set in a compost of peat, loam, and sand, in $-in. ]xjts, which should be well provided with drainage. There are many varieties. Great care is required in their culture, and the plants often suffer injury from thrips. Gilia. See Annuals, &c. Gladiolus. The hybrid varieties of the gladiolus are very numerous and very beautiful, and their treatment may be summarised as follows : — The grand display of flowers is made by these plants in June and July, and if seed s no object the flower stems should be cut down, or rather shortened, by removing the withered flower spike, when many of the bulbs will throw a second flower-stem. The stems could only be cut down as far as the first leaf, as the leaves continue fresh and beautiful, and the second flower stem often proceeds as a lateral from this point. They are easily increased by seed ; but, as they are already so numerous, it is as well, perhaps, to leave this mode to] the growers. The only drawback is that, in the most favourable circumstances, gladioli will not remain in bloom for longer than two months. Propagation and Culture. — When taker up in November, they should be put away, with their old fibres and some soil adhering to them, in a dry room, the temperature not being allowed to sink under 40°. Pre- pare for planting in the following March, by carefully rubbing off the old roots and soil adhering at the bottom of the bulb, and carefully save all this di'bris ; you will then perceive that each bulb asks you to divide it into two— sometimes three or GLADIOLUS GANDAVENSIS. four ; that is, they will almost split them- selves, and will have so many embryo shoots. After dividing and planting your bulbs, examine the debris* and you will GLADIOLUS. 220 GLASS HOUSES. find hundreds of thousands of little scaly - looking rubbish, which, indeed, are not rubbish, but young gladioli. Pick out the old roots and large particles of soil, draw a drill two inches deep on a bit of rich soil in the reserve garden, sow the scales thinly, and there will be such a crop of bulbs as will astonish every reader. Some of these will flower late in the autumn, many of them the second, and all the third year. These young bulblets require exactly the same treatment as the old ones. They also begin forming offsets at once, and after the second year they divide the bulbs in the same manner. Soil and General Management. — Gladioli are divided into two sections, namely, the early-flowering and the late-flowering varieties. The early-flowering varieties, of which Gladiolus Colvillei and " The Bride" may be taken as examples, bloom from the beginning of June to the end of July, but may be induced to flower earlier under glass. These should be planted in October, or, at the latest, in November. The late- flowering varieties, of which G. Ganda- vensis and G. Brenchleyensis are fitting representatives, bloom in August and September, and should be planted in March. The bulbs, or corms, should be lifted in October or November, and dried off. Gladioli, in common with bulbs in general, like a light rich soil, and if the ground in which they are to be planted is poor, or in any degree heavy, a plentiful dressing of well-rotted manure and some sand should be incorporated with it, and the bed allowed to lie three or four weeks before the bulbs are planted. A warm spot, well exposed to the sun and sheltered from cutting winds, should be selected, and when winter approaches and frost sets in it is desirable to protect beds in which early varieties have been planted by a cover ing or mulching of litter about 4 inches deep. Glass Houses. All glass structures should be distin- guished by utility, ornament, and conve- nience. The first is often sacrificed to antiquated routine, and houses, built for he culture of tropical plants and fruits, are constructed so as to exclude more than lalf of the little light we can afford them. Routine, indeed, is the chief cause of the >erpetuation of lean-to houses, with opaque jacks, these old-fashioned receptacles for plants, which still arise at her bidding ; ornamental glasshouses that admit the light on every side being, to all appearance, studiously shimned in many gardens, as if, the uglier houses could be made, the better they must needs be adapted for their in- ended purposes. Nevertheless, a large measure of structural and decorative beauty is compatible with the highest cultural advantages, and consistent with the severest economy ; and this should be steadily and persistently kept in view in the construction of all glazed buildings, be they what they may, for horticultural pur- poses. Glasshouses, it should be borne in mind, are a never-failing resource on wet days, when other amusements fail and out- door exercise becomes impossible, and it is then that they should contribute their largest quota of enjoyment. They should therefore be always accessible from the drawing-room, without the necessity of going out of doors. Probably, the best possible arrangement is to attach the con- servatory to the mansion ; and, where there are other houses, to connect all with the conservatory, by the intervention of a glass passage or verandah. Of course, where there is only one house, whatever its form and designation, this applies with even more force. Ail glasshouses ought to be span, curvilinear, or ridge-and-furro\v roofed, and should be placed, ii possible, at right angles with the verandah, their end doors communicating with it. They should GLOXINIA. 221 GOOSEBERRIES. run north and south, and present east and west aspects to the sun's rays, which is decidedly the best for general purposes. Rooms for the gardeners employed, fruit rooms, mushroom pits, retarding and pro- pagating houses, potting and tool sheds, &c., should also be placed near to them. Perhaps a span-roofed building, divided in the centre, and running up at one point to the glass, with a building at one end for the reception of a boiler to heat the whole range, would be the very best, and certainly the most economical arrangement. Gloxinia (««'. ord. Gesnera'cese). A superb genus of hothouse plants, pro- ducing, in great profusion, flowers of the richest and most beautiful colours. They thrive the best in sandy peat and loam. There are already many hybrid varieties with flowers ranging from the purest white to the deepest crimson, most of them being marked and dappled with spots and blotches, generally of a deeper colour on the inside of the blossom. Propagation is effected by seeds sown at the end of January or the beginning of February in a compost of peat, sand, and fine rich soil, thinly covered and exposed to a bottom heat of about 70°. Old tubers, when started in heat, supply shoots from which cuttings may be made : these should be placed in a close propagating frame and subjected to moist and gentle heat. Another means of propagation is by means of leaf cuttings taken from the plant with the bud on the end of the leaf stalk attached. Thes* should be inserted in the same kind of soil as that prescribed for seeds. Gode'tia (nat. ord. Onagra'ceae). This is a name given of late years to the purple- flowered kinds of Qinothera, or Evening Primrose. Gooseberries. Gooseberries bear on the young as well as on the two-year-old wood, generally upon small spurs rising along the sides of the branches. In pruning gooseberry-trees, for which January is a favourable season, keep the tree thin of branches : but let those left be trained to some regular shape, and never permitted to grow across each other, radiating in a cuplike form, so as to be 6 or 8 inches apart at the extremities and hollow in the centre. Prune away all worn-out branches, retaining young shoots to supply their places, retaining also, where practicable, a terminal bud to each branch, while shortening stragglers. The same remarks apply to currant-trees. Young gooseberry -trees designed for standards should be pruned back to a clean stem for 10 or 12 inches, retaining the best-placed shoots to form the head, and keeping these, as nearly as possible, in the same length and form. In making new plantations, place the bushes 8 feet apart each way, if in continuous rows ; if into quarters, or to divide the ground into compartments, prune them up to a clean stem 12 or 14 inches high ; otherwise the foliage will impede the growth of the crops sown beneath them. Perhaps the best mode of growing gooseberries is as standards; in which case the bushes should be trained 3 feet high before they are suffered to GOOSEBERRY CATERPILLARS. 222 GOOSEBERRY CULTURE. form a head. According to the ordinary system of training, the branches are often borne to the ground by the weight of the fruit, which is destroyed by being draggled on the soil and splashed by heavy rains. For further information on the culture of the goosebejary and a list of the best varieties, sev Bush Fruit. Gooseberry Caterpillars. These pests are exceedingly prevalent, and at times in some parts of the country the gooseberry has been nearly destroyed by them. They come principally from a saw-fly, which lays its eggs in rows along the under-ribs of the leaves, and after having committed its ravage, falls to the ground, where it lives in the pupa state till the following season. The bushes should be carefully looked over once a week to watch the hatching of the eggs, when the infected leaves may be picked oft. To prevent the fly from settling, the bushes should be dusted over with hellebore powder, or watered with a strong decoction of the Digitalis, or common foxglove. If the caterpillar has begun its ravages, the ground beneath the bush should be sprinkled with new lime, and a double- barrelled gun fired two or three times under it to shake the caterpillars down into it. The most effectual preventive, however, is to remove the top soil from under the bush during the winter time, and destroy the grubs in it by mixing it with salt or soot : the parings so mixed may be buried or entirely removed, and new soil placed round the roots instead of it. Layers of bark from the tan-yard, when used as a covering of the soil underneath the bushes, have been found very useful in destroying the insect in its chrysalis state. In the autumn or winter, when digging between the bushes, sow the whole ground over with fresh-slaked lime, using a liberal supply of ime, more particularly round the stems and about the roots of the bushes, forking the ground over. About the middle or latter end ot March repeat the applica- tion, more especially round the roots, and rake the ground in, repeating the operation in two or three weeks. Few caterpillars will survive this treatment. Gooseberry, Culture of the. Though the gooseberry will grow on the poorest soil, it will not produce fine fruit unless planted in a deep, rich soil, and treated generously. Though hardy, it requires moderate shelter, and though rejoicing in moisture, it will not flourish in undrained land. CtittingS) Management of. — Cuttings should be planted any time from October to March. Select for the purpose shoots of a medium size, not root-suckers, about a foot or more in length. Cut the base of the shoot square ; no fruit canes should ever be planted with slanting heels ; after this, remove with a knife every bud from the base to within two inches of the top. If the cuttings are fifteen inches long, and four heads are left at the top, the future stem will be a foot high, which will be ample for a useful tree. The lower buds are removed in order to secure a clean stem and prevent the formation of suckers. Plant the cut- tings in the shade four inches deep, and fix the earth firmly about them. During sum- mer, young growing shoots strike readily under a hand-glass on a shady border, and a season may frequently be saved in this way. Pruning and Training. — The first season's growth of cuttings put in in autumn should be very little interfered with. If any pruning is requisite, it is best done by rubbing off buds and by pinching in shoots which would interfere with the proper shape of the bush. At the end of the season cut back all leading shoots to two-thirds of their length, so as GOOSEBERRIES. 223 GOOSEBERRIES. to cause them to break next spring and form well-shaped bushes. At first, it is frequently desirable to plant cuttings only a few inches apart, and after the second year's growth to plant them out finally \ about six feet apart. Each bush would then have about eight leading shoots to form a head, and must be kept in shape and order by yearly prunings. If large fruit is required, it is not desirable to shorten the shoots, except they grow too vigorously and incline too much down- | wards. Weak and superfluous shoots should be removed, and this is best done by taking them off as close as possible to the old ones, and removing all bottom buds, so as to prevent the formation of too many young shoots. The trees may be trained in many ways : sometimes the form of a fan or an espalier hedge is adopted, which has the advantage of being easily netted if birds are trouble- some. The cup and funnel shapes are especially suited for the production of fine fruit, as air may be admitted to the centre of the trees. Protection of Fruit. — The best plan of protecting fruit from birds is by encircling the bush with wire netting, and covering the top with a piece of string netting, which can be removed when the fruit is to be gathered. The ordinary bush form can be protected in the same way. With regard to the selection of sorts, it may be as well to mention, first of all, the sorts that were most in vogue and chiefly in favour in the time of so good a judge as the late Mr. Shirley Hibberd. The best of the old varieties, he tells us, still hold their ground. There are none equal to the Champagne for flavour. The Red Cham- pagne is of the same quality, differing only in colour. The old Rough is the best for preserving, and Warrington is unequalled as a profitable late gooseberry. For early work, take Golden Drop, Ostrich, and Early Green Hairy. For the latest crop and for retarding, the best are Warrington, white ; Viper, yellow ; Pitmaston, green ; and Coe's Late Red. The most profitable sorts are Keen's Seedling and Warrington, red ; Globe and Husbandman, yellow ; Profit and Glenton, green ; Eagle and Wellington Glory, white. Pjft large ex- hibition berries, the following are a few of the best established sorts: — Red: Com- panion, Slaughterman, Conquering Hero, and Dan's Mistake. Yellow : Leader, Leveller, Goldfinder, Peru, Catherina. Green : Thumper, Gretna Green, Rough Green, General, and Turnout. White : Snowdrop, Antagonist, and Lady Lei- cester. The Lancashire gooseberries, which are generally distinguished by long, drooping branches, bear the largest fruit. Seedlings have been shown at Man- chester varying in weight from 20 dwt. to 26 dwt., and, we believe, even beyond this. Such fruit, however, is generally produced at the expense of the crop. When fruit is to be gathered green, it is most profitable to keep the bush as thick in shoots as possible; for ripening fine fruit, the more open the bush the better. After this, as constituting the most modern and complete list that we can have, it will be useful to put the reader in possession of the names of the choicest fruits of this class compiled from the " Illustrated Dictionary of Gardening," edited by Mr. George Nicholson, of the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew. The four lists of red, yellow, green, and white, are necessarily abbreviated, and none of the fruits mentioned above are repeated, but the character of each individual kind has been noted as given in the authority quoted. i. GOOSEBERRIES WITH RED SKIN. Crown Bob ; bright red, of good flavour, roundisb oblong, hairy. Dr. Hogg; purplish red, long, broad, downy. Hanson's Seedling ; deep red, medium, of good flavour, very hairy, late. GOOSEBERRIES. 224 GOOSEBERRIES. Ironmonger; dark red, small, hairy. ^ Lion's Provider ; light red, long, a little hairy. London ; dark red, very large, roundish ovate, smooth. Miss Bold ; light red, medium, very downy, early. Monarch ; deep red, very large, oblong, hairy. Ploughboy ; light red shaded yellow, very long, smooth, late. Raspberry ; dark red, small, hairy, early. Red Turkey ; dark red, small, obovate, smooth, late. Rifleman ; red, very large, roundish, early. Wilmot's Early Red ; dark red, large, smooth. Wonderful ; purplish red, very large, smooth. 2. GOOSEBERRIES WITH YELLOW SKIN. Broom Girl ; large with long stalk, dark yellow, hairy, early. Criterion ; greenish yellow, medium, a little hairy. Drill ; greenish yellow, large, long, smooth, late. Early Sulphur ; bright yellow, medium, very hairy, early and abundant. Fanny ; pale yellow, large, round, hairyi Garibaldi ; pale yellow, large, long, hairy. Gipsy Queen ; pale yellow, large, smooth, early. High Sheriff; deep yellow, large, round, very hairy. Lord Rancliffe ; pale yellow, medium, round, hairy. Moreton Hero; pale yellow, large, oval, smooth, skin thin. Mount Pleasant ; deep yellow, long, hairy, late. Rumbullion ; pale yellow, small, very downy, early. Smiling Beauty ; yellowish white, large, oblong, quite smooth, early. Sulphur ; yellow, small, roundish, hairy, and of good flavour. Yellow Ball ; yellow, medium, thick-skinned, smooth. Yellow Champagne ; small, of rich flavour, hairy, late; 3. GOOSEBERRIES WITH GREEN SKIN. Green Gascoigne ; deep green, small, round, early. Green London ; bright green, medium, smooth. Green Overall ; dark green, of good flavour, medium size, smooth. Green River ; deep green, smooth, medium, oval. Green Walnut ; dark green, smooth, medium, obovate, skin thin. Gregory's Perfection ; green, downy, large, round. Heart of Oak ; smooth, large, oblong, skin green with yellowish veins. Hebburn Prolific ; medium, roundish, hairy, early and abundant. Jolly Anglers; large, oblong, of good quality, downy, late. Keepsake ; green, large, smooth, sometimes a little hairy, ripens early. Laurel ; pale green, downy, large, obovate, late. Lord Eldon ; dark green, smooth, round, very rich flavour, early. Random Green ; deep green, smooth, large, of good flavour, good bearer. Rosebery ; large, round, dark green, smooth. Shiner ; very large, round, smooth, one of th« largest gooseberries grown. Stockwell ; bright green, long, smooth. Telegraph ; large, long, smooth, late. Thunder ; large, roundish, hairy, of excellent Savour, early. 4. GOOSEBERRIES WITH WHITE SKIN. Abraham Newland ; white, large, oblong, slightly hairy, rich flavoured, late. Adam's Snowball : medium, roundish, skin hairy. Bright Venus ; medium, obovate, slightly hairy, hangs well. Careless ; creamy white, large and long, smooth, very handsome. Cheshire Lass ; large, oblong, downy, of rich, sweet flavour. Crystal ; small, roundish, smooth, late variety. Early White ; roundish-oblong, downy, of rich flavour, skin thin, very early. Hero of the Nile; greenish-white, large, smooth. King of Trumps; roundish-oblong, slightly hairy, ot good flavour. Mayor of Oldham ; greenish-white, round, smooth, of excellent flavour. Princess Royal ; large, obovate, hairy, of good flavour, good bearer. Queen of Trumps ; long, flat-sided, smooth, large, and of excellent flavour. Royal White ; small, round, slightly hairy. White Champagne ; small, roundish, sweet and rich, hairy. White Fig; small, obovate, smooth, will hang till it shrivels. White Lion ; large, obovate, slightly hairy, rich flavour, very late. Woodward's Whitesmith, also known as Hall's Seedling, Lancashire Lass, and Sir Sydney Smith ; white, downy, large, roundish oblong, of excellent flavour, rather early, abundant bearer. It will be noticed that the last-named variety is distinguished by having four names as synonyms. Not many are thus distinguished, but it may be as well to point out that Ironmonger (red) is some- times called Hairy Black, that Red Cham- pagne is also known as Countess of Errol and Ironmonger of Scotland, and Red Warrington as Aston Seedling and Volun- teer. Among the yellows, Sulphur is also known as Rough Yellow, and Yellow Champagne as Hairy Amber. Among the greens, Laurel is sometimes called Green Laurel. From such a list as the above, the most fastidious grower cannot fail to pick out a variety of sorts well suited to his require- ments, but it may be that some in attempt- GOURDS. 225 GRAFTING. 6. Crown Bob. 7. Lancashire Lad. 8. Whinham's In- dustry. ing to make a selection will be puzzled which to choose from the sorts named. For such as these the following will afford a sufficient list for all necessary purposes : — i. Large White Smith, t. Early Sulphur. 3. Yellow Rough. 4. Warrington. 5. Rifleman. The magnificent gooseberry of recent introduction, named " Whinham's In- dustry," is of the highest possible worth, owing to the valuable properties it possesses of flowering late, and after- wards swelling so quickly as to reach a suitable size for pulling green sooner than any other variety. When left to attain maturity the fruit is of a dark red colour and hairy, and is distinguished by a pleasant rich flavour. Gourds. All vegetables of this class, including pumpkins and vegetable marrows, which produce an immense amount of food, may be profitably and easily cultivated by attending to the following directions : — GOURD — WHITE VEGETABLE MARROW. The seed should be sown in April or May, in pots or pans of rich light soil, and raised in a warm frame. As soon as possible, the young plants should be potted off, and hardened in a cold frame for planting out in the open ground, preferably on manure heaps, or soil taken out of ponds, at the [6 end of May or early in June. Marrows contain a rich sugaiy and farinaceou-i matter, and are a most excellent and nutricious article of diet when dressed in the following manner : — Cut the marrows into short pieces, take out all the pith and seeds, and boil them in plenty of water with a little salt. When well boiled, scrape out all the marrow, put it between two dishes, and squeeze out all the water ; then mash it well, adding salt, pepper, and a little butter. It is then a dish fit for any table. The cultivation Mr. Cuthill recom- mends is to sow the seed about the first week in May in the open ground, in a warm corner, and when large enough, transplanted to moderately rich land. " I can grow," he adds, " twenty tons of the marrows to the acre easily ; and when ripe, they can be stowed away anywhere, and will keep good for a very great length of time. In addition to their utility as a vege- table for the table, they form a most excel- lent and economical article when boiled for fattening pigs." For further information on this subject, see Pumpkin. Grafting and Budding, Appli- ances for. In gardening nomenclature, the term "stock" or "subject" is applied to the tree on which the operation is performed ; that of "graft," and sometimes "scion," to the portion of the branch which is implanted on it. The implements neces- sary for the operation are — a handsaw, sometimes made with a folding blade, the peculiarity of which is that the blade should be thin at the back, with very open teeth ; a grafting knife, with a chisel and mallet bevelled on both sides, used where the graft is too large to be cut by the knife ; and a supply of small quoins, or wedges of hard wood, to keep the slit open while the graft is pieparing. The grafting knife is furnished with a smooth spatula, oi GRAFTING. 226 GRAFTING. hard wood or bone, at its lower end. A bundle of course hemp, or worsted thread, or of willow bark which has been softened and rendered pliable by being soaked in water, and some composition which shall protect the graft from the atmosphere and from rain, are also necessary, and these complete the appliances necessary in graft- ing. With regard to grafting wax, as these compositions are generally called, there are various preparations sold in the shops, some of which are composed of ingredients that are kept secret ; but many good gar- deners are contented to use well-tempered clay — that is, clay of which the silicious or calcareous particles have been washed out, and pure clay only left. French gardeners use a paste composed of 28 parts black pitch, 28 parts Burgundy pitch, 16 parts yellow wax, 14 parts tallow, and 14 parts yellow ochre. This mixture is applied in a hot liquid state, but not so hot as to affect the tissues of the trees ; it is laid over the graft in coatings by means of a brush, until sufficiently thick for the purpose. Grafting and Budding, First Principles of. Structure of Branch. — Before any one can hope to attain success in the opera- tions known as grafting and budding, it is necessary that he should have a clear conception of the structure of the part that is operated on, and of the func- tions of the various parts of which the stock and scion are composed at the point of operation. When the stem or branch of a tree is cut across transversely, it ex- hibits a central mass of woody fibre within, surrounded externally by a ring-like cover- ing or coating, which we term the bark. With regard to the woody portion in the very centre is the pith or medulla, which is supposed to possess the function of nourishing the buds until they are suffi- ciently advanced in growth to obtain nourishment for themselves. From the pith the medullary rays extend themselves through the woody fibre from centre tt circumference, acting, according to Dr. Lindley, " as braces to the woody and vasifonn tissue of the wood," and convey- ing "secreted matter horizontally from the bark to the heart wood." These rays con- nect the pith and the bark, and form the medium of intercommunication between the pith within and the buds without. Broadly speaking, the sap ascends in spring from the roots through the woody fibre that is covered by the bark ; in autumn, having been matured in the leaves, it descends once again to the roots through the bark, or passes hori- zontally into the stem. Bark: its Tissues. — The bark may be at any time separated in a mass from the woody stem, but this may be done more readily in spring or autumn, when the sap is ascending or descending. Looking at it casually, it appears to be a coating of homogeneous substance, rough and hard without when exposed to the air, and smooth and moist within at its contact with the woody stem. The coating, how- ever, which we call the bark, is com- posed of tissues of widely different natures, and is composed of different layers, each of which possesses its especial function. First comes the epidermis, corresponding with the outer or scarf skin of the human body, often called the epidermis also, which is perishable and renewable. The removal of this bark is in no way injurious to the tree, and often it will split as the tree increases in size, and come away itself. Next to this outer coating is the true bark, consisting of two layers known respectively as the "outer" and "inner" layers. Within this is another bark, called the liber, or inner bark, composed of bundles of woody fibre. In the lime or GRAFTING. 227 GRAFTING. linden tree this liber is present in con- siderable quantities, and supplies the material for mats which we call bast, and useful for tying up plants. Within this third bark, intervening between it and the woody stem, is another layer of muci- laginous, viscid matter, called the cam- bium, more abundant and more active in spring than at any other time. It is un- certain whether this belongs properly to the stem or the bark. It is certain, how- ever, that it is a connecting link between them, that both bark and stem are in- creased from it, and that it plays a most important part in the plant as a living, organised structure. Cambium. — To all appearance the cam- bium is the chief means by which the growth and increase of the tree is main- tained, the organ from which the growth and increase of the tree proceeds. In grafting and budding, it is absolutely necessary that contact be effected behve.en the cambium of the stock and the cambium of the scion. If this be secured, the well- being and junction of scion to stock is certain ; if not, the graft will fail. Hence it appears ho\v necessary it is that this should be known to and recognised and understood by those who attempt grafting and budding. It is to insure a good con- tact between the cambium of the bark that contains the bud and the cambium of the stock that the old wood taken away with the bud is removed before the latter is applied to the stock, and it is because the contact of cambium of scion and stock is rendered more complete in budding than it is in grafting that the former operation is performed more frequently with success by amateurs than the latter. Gardening ingenuity has invented many kinds of grafting, but it will be sufficient, in separate articles to follow, to describe a few only of these processes, in order to explain their principle. The first thing to be done is to select a suitable stock, whose height will be according to the purpose for which it is intended, and also a graft, which should be from an early branch of the previous year's wood which has ripened under an August sun, so that the wood has been thoroughly constituted before the early frosts sets in. It should also be selected so that the graft is in the same state of vegetation with the intended stock. Where the texture of the wood is less advanced in the graft than in the stock, the latter intercepts the descent of the pulpy sap, and forms the bulging on the stem which is observable on many trees that have been subjected to the process of grafting. When the case is reversed, the swelling occurs in the branch above the graft ; for the principle of the union is that the pulp from the scion descends to the point of junction, where, being shut in by the ball of grafting wax, which sur- rounds it, and thereby secluded from the light and air, it forms woody fibre in place of the roots which it would have formed in the soil ; in the meanwhile, the sap from the stock rises into the graft, where it is elaborated into pulp by the action of the leaves, and returns again, but in a more consistent state. In the preceding re- marks the rationale of grafting is briefly but clearly dealt with. Grafting, Cleft or Tongue. In this mode of grafting, the crown of the stock is cut across, and a longitudinal wedge- shaped slit, c, as in Fig. i, is made about 4 inches long, according to the size and vigour of the intended graft ; this cleft is kept open by a wooden wedge until the scion is prepared. The scion is tlien selected, having a bud, A, at its summit ; and the lower part of it is shaped with the knife so as to fit the slit in the stock. The double-tongued graft only differs from the first in having two grafts in place of one, CKAKTINCi. 228 GRAFTING, ., . in J-ig. .'. ; :iiiny Persicum, 'JSurvf&uMt are still very attractive in their season, giving them a season of dry rest soon after the bloom is over. A few useful chrysanthemums foi autumn-flowering also might be purchased, a selection being made from each variety. Diosmas. Epacrises. Encases. HeHchrysums. Linums. Mesembryanthe- mums. Myrtles. Pimeleas. Plumbago capensis. Solanums. Veronicas. GREENHOUSE, SMALL. 232 GREENHOUSE, SMALL. Having obtained some plants as stock, cuttings may be struck any time from November to June, or even later, and may be had of all sizes. Useful climbers for a small greenhouse are Passiflora c&rulea, Ecremocarpus scaber> Hibbertia volubilis, Solatium jasminoides. Maurandia Barclayana might be trained up the back or pillars. It is necessary to make a proper bed or border of earth for these to grow in. Plant-culture is not the only use to which a small greenhouse may be put : the practice is not uncommon to grow fruit in them. For this purpose small fruit-trees are grown in pots ; the p****-***™ roots being confined, they are not liable to run to wood ; but keep within bounds for the more cer- tain production of flowers and fruit. Any one who can cultivate flowering plants may grow fruit-trees in pots ; the only points being to keep them well supplied with water while in a growing state, and to ripen th« wood well in the autumn. A long list of fruit-trees suitable for the purpose might be named ; but the follow- ing may serve as a guide. They are usually worked on quince or paradise stocks, which, in a great measure, serves to keep them within proper limits as to size : — APPLES. — Braddick's Nonpariel, Cellini, Golden Pippin, Orange Pippin, New-town Pippin. PEARS. — Beaurr£, Hardy, Marie-Louise, Bon Chretien, Winter Nelis. PLUMS. — Victoria, Green-gage, Purple-gage, Topaz. CHERRIES. — Bis;arreau, Elton, May Duke, Morello. PEACHES. — Noblesse, Royal George, Crawfurd's Early. NECTARINES. — lmpe"ratrice, Newington Early, Stan wick. A glass structure, however, must be of some size to accommodate even a very limited number of trees in pots. Greenhouse, Small, for Ama- teurs. The general principles involved in the building of a greenhouse, as far as carpentry is concerned, cannot for obvious reasons be en- tered on here, but it may be said that they will be found explained at — GREENHOUSE SUITED TO SITUATION. length in " Every Man His Own Me- chanic." * It is only on questions of detail that there is any necess ty to dwell on here. In all cases the amateur must suit the peculiar form which his house will assume to the ground on which it is to be built and to the peculiar circum- stances of situation. In order to give a practical illustration of what is meant by adapting the form of the structure to circumstances, it will be 1 An exhaustive book on Constructive Work of every kind that can be done by the amateur, writ- ten by Francis Chili on-Young, and published by Messrs. Ward, Lock & Co., Limited, Warwick House, Salisbury Square, London. E.G. GREENHOUSE, SMALL. 233 GREENHOUSE, SMALL. useful, perhaps, to describe what was once accomplished by a poor amateur who liked gardening and wanted a small glass structure to help him in his horticultural work in a position that presented some difficulty. One or two trifling deviations have been made from what was actually done, in order to render the sketch and description more useful to amateurs generally. In Fig. I AB represents, or must be considered to represent, a glazed door in section leading out to a lauding c, form- ing the top of a flight of stone steps, D E F, leading to the garden, the level of which is represented by the earth -line GH. There were iron railings run with lead into the edges of the steps to prevent any one from falling into the garden, and to act as balusters to the steps. K L M shows the height of a brick wall, 6 feet high in the lowest part, which divides the garden from an alley or narrow passage which runs betweens the garden in question and that of the next house, and forms a thorough- fare from the street in front to another behind. A greenhouse was very much wished for, but to have raised it above the wall would have exposed the roof to damage and blocked the view from the door AB. The only thing to be done to get sufficient headway within the house was to put the floor below the earth-line, and this was done accordingly ; an excava- tion, OP QR, being made below the level of the earth-line shown by GH. A frame, P s, was made, in which was a swing window, I, hung to the top rail of the frame to hinges, to open outwards. Another frame, QU, was put up behind, butting against the steps from which the railings were removed. On these frames, before and behind, the roof, us, was laid, with a ventilation at U up- wards. A rail, OR, was mortised at the level of the earth-line into the uprights PS, QU, and short rails, Z Z, on either side be- tween these uprights and the uprights v\v, XY, which were mortised into the rails OR, US, and formed the frame for the door. A nice little house, 6 feet high in front and 8 feet high behind, and about 5 feet 6 inches wide, and 7 feet from back to front, was thus formed, capable of holding a great many plants on the platform and shelves in front and the stage of three tiers behind, the positions of which are indicated by drawings of flowers in pots in the sketch. The openings between the uprights from RQ to OP, and in front, were filled in with brick-work to keep the soil from falling in, and the space between OR and the short rails z z on either side of the door, was boarded up. the boards being placed vertically, and strips with the sharp edges taken off being nailed over the junction of the boards to hide their meet- ing, and to provide against possible shrink- age. To cover in the steps and landing in front of the glass door AB, uprights were mortised into the top rail, u, of the frame, to carry another rail on which the zinc- covered roof a was sustained, the long opening between these two rails being glazed and fitted with a swing window as shown in sketch. The glass at the top of the wall, from L to K, was chipped off, and a shelf put in its place, which is useful for flowers. The opening at c was matchboarded, and so was the wall at d between the shelf LK and a seat e, which was put up across the inner end of the landing, about 16 inches above it. The back of the greenhouse from a little above the level of the seat to the top rail U, on which the roof rests, is glazed, which allows a view of the interior of the glasshouse to any one who is sitting on the seat et and from the passage within the glass door at AB. Although everything is on a small scale the house is convenient, and so is the seat. A step is placed with- in the house, midway between the sill of the door and the floor to facilitate ingress and egress. The water from the roof. GREENHOUSE, SMALL. 234 GREENHOUSE, SMALL. which runs into the gutter below, s, is carried by the shoot F, which is attached to FIG. 2.— GREENHOUSE (FRONT ELEVATION). the side of a small buttress down to the ground at IT, into which it soon soaks away. Unless the floor of the house had been carried to the depth of 18 inches below the ground level, it would have been impos- sible to have got a house of fair height conveniently placed, for reasons that have been already stated ; and when sketches were being made for the plan, elevations, &c., the covering in of the landing c, with the verandah-like roof a, and the formation of the shelf LK and the seat e, soon suggested themselves. Thus, in whatever building the amateur may undertake to construct, it is not only necessary for him to adapt the structure to the circumstances j of position, but to consider how and in | what way the position itself may be modi- fied so as to promote convenience in the building, whatever it may be, that is about to be reared upon it. Having thus shown that the amateur gardener need never despair of putting up something in the shape, and to answer the i purpose, of a greenhouse, however un- promising the locality on which it is pro- posed to build it may be, it is ne- cessary to state that the small greenhouse just described is what is termed a " lean-to." That the amateur may not be without a suitable design for a pretty " lean- to " greenhouse to be erected against a wall, and having glazed ends, in one of which is the door, the preceding remarks on green- house building may be fairly sup- plemented with illustrations and a brief description of such a structure. The greenhouse shown in the accompanying diagrams, of which Figs. 2 and 3 are the front and end elevations of the house re- spectively, may be built either as a lean-to against a brick wall, or in- dependently of any wall or structure behind, in which case it must be furnished with a back. A useful feature in this design is FIG. 3. — GREENHOUSE (SIDF. OR KNI) ELEVATION). that any greenhouse built on this plan can be easily taken to pieces and re-erected in any other place at small cost. The ends are each formed in a piece to move bodily, GREENHOUSE, SMALL 235 GREENHOUSE, SMALL. the front and roof may be made each in one piece or in separate parts. The most feasible way would be to make the wood- work below shown as panels in the draw- ing and the glazing above, in four separate pieces, as the two pieces in the centre could then be made to open for ventilation. The roof may be made in three pieces, and in this case the two central panels should terminate at a cross-rail set across the frame at A and B, to admit of small FIG. 5. FIG. 6. FIG. 4.— CONNECTION OF PLATE AND 1'OST. FIG. 5. — CONNECTION OF ROOF AND UPRIGHTS, FRONT. FIG. 6.— CONNECTION OF ROOF AND UPRIGHTS, BACK. lights above between this rail and the top rail of the roof for ventilation. The house stands on a platform on sill-piece of oak framed separately, and the sills, on lower rails of the framing above, are screwed down upon it. It is almost needless to say that the oaken sill should be bedded on concrete, and that the floor of the house should be formed of the same material, sloped from all sides to one corner, at which an outlet and drainage should be provided for surplus water that may fall on the floor when the plants are watered. For the sake of ornament cir- cular heads may be made to the lights, if preferred to square or rectangular heads. In Figs. 4, 5, and 6 the details employed in bolting the front (and back, if the house be furnished with a wooden back) to the roof of the uprights at front and back are clearly shown. In Fig. 4 the plate A is mortised into the post B, and a hole is bored with an auger through post and tenon until a recess notched in the plate below A is reached, in which the nut is held until the end of the bolt has been passed through it. The nut, which is circular, with notches on its edge like the milling of a coin, is then screwed up tight with a screw wrench made in the form of a large pair of bent pliers, until the post is brought as closely as possible against the tenoned end of the plate. The framing of the roof is secured in precisely the same manner as shown by the bolts in Figs. 5 and 6. In these the shaded parts of the top, lettered A, represent in Fig. 5 the front rail, and in Fig. 6 the back rail of the roof; and in each of these figures the shaded part of B repre- sents the top rail of back and front respectively ; for even if the back be formed by a brick wall, or the wall of a house, or any other struc- ture, a wall plate from end to end will be required to help in supporting the framing that forms the roof. A fillet is nailed on the sides of the roof to give a. finish to this part of the structure, and to prevent the rain from finding its way to the bolts, caps, as shown in the front and end elevations and in detail in Fig. 6, are placed at the four corners of the roof. The difference in the form of the GREENHOUSE, SMALL. 236 GUANO. caps in front and the caps behind is per- ceptible in Fig. 3. It will be obvious to any one who wishes for a span-roofed house that a greenhouse of this form can be easily made by putting two lean-to houses together, so to speak. That is to say, by making two front eleva- tions and two roofs, as shown in Fig. 2, and doubling the side elevation shown in Fig. 3, omitting the upright at the back, for each end of the house all the parts re- quired will be at hand. It must be re- membered that the door, as shown in Fig. 3, should be in the centre of one end instead of the position indicated in the illustration for the door of the lean-to. The two sides roughly put together, without entire exclu- sion of the air at pleasure and without means of heating. In the illustration under consideration, cc represents the ground level. At A, A, A, A four dwarf brick walls are raised, the outer ones being lower than the inner ones, so that lights may be placed from the latter to the former on an incline, covering in the cold pits B B on either side of the main structure. The floor of the pits is below the ground-level, but that of the main structure coincides with the ground-line. In the case of the orchard house, if it be desired to gain height, the floor may be sunk below the ground-level, as in the case of FIG. 7.— GREENHOUSE OR ORCHARD-HOUSE. of the roof must be batted against a ridge board running along the top from end to end, and at each end of the ridge board should be a cap by way of finish similar as to the cap shown in Fig 6, but modified to suit the position in the lower part where it is attached to the roof and ends. Fig. 7 exhibits a section of a useful form of greenhouse for the amateur, which, by the removal of the stage in the centre and the heating apparatus shown at the sides, may be easily adapted to serve as an orchid house, which see, the main points of difference between a greenhouse and an orchard house being that the greenhouse is neatly made and furnished with warming appliances, while the orchard house is the cold pits, but this will be found inconve- nient when it is desired to move the plants, or rather trees, out of the house in summer time, as when the floor of the house is neither higher nor lower than the ground without, the trees can easily be run in and out on a low carriage, whose wheels run on iron plates laid down for the purpose. When the fruit is grown on trees in pots, so that the trees can be moved from one place to another more steadily, or when the trees are kept in the house always, the floor of the house may be sunk below the ground level as described. Guano. This, which is nothing more than the GUERNSEY LILY. 237 GUMMING. droppings of sea-birds, dried and pulverised by the heat of the sunj is an important manure, which is collected in small islands on the coast of Peru and some other parts of the world, and imported in large quan- tities into the United Kingdom. Its weight per bushel is about 70 Ib. ; if heavier than this, the additional weight per bushel would tend to show that it has been subjected to adulteration. By analysis it has been found that very nearly one-half consists of organic matter, of which about a fifth part is ammonia ; about a fourth part of the entire mass is calcic phosphate, and of the re- maining fourth about two-fifths are alkaliile salts, a considerable part of which is phos- phoric acid. There is no doubt that guano affords a valuable manure, useful for all purposes in the garden. It is veiy similar in its constituents, and the relative quantities of each that it contains, to farm-yard manure, but being more highly concentrated and therefore less in bulk, and differing from the latter in being dry instead of wet, it is more handy for use in small gardens, and therefore demands the attention of all whose gardening is restricted to space and operations that are alike limited in character. Guernsey l$y(nat,ord. AmaryUidese). The flower of the Guernsey Lily, or Nerine sarniensis, is of a pale salmon colour, and by no means so brilliant in colour as many varieties of the species to which it belongs. It must not, however, be confounded with the Belladonna Lily, another amaryllid which it greatly resem- bles in form, habit, and manner of growth. The bulbs of these lilies arrive from Guernsey early in August, with the flower- Imd ready to expand, so that by the end of the month they are in full bloom. Orders should therefore be given early for them, as they are too advanced to travel safely when ordered late in September. Culture. — Plant in moss, cocoa-fibre, or water, in any ornamental vase, £c., and GUERNSEY LILY. they will bloom as well as if planted in the richest compost. Gumming. When gumming occurs in fruit-trees, to a considerable extent it is difficult to get rid of it, but if the trees be only slightly affected scrape the gum clear away and well wash the parts of the trees from which it has been removed with toft water, applied with a brush. It is supposed that gumming is due to too great luxuriance of soil or over-manuring, and must be stopped by judicious pruning of young shoots in sum- GUNNERA SCABKA. mer. Root pruning is a preventive, and it has been found of advantage to lift the trees and plant them in poorer soil. GUNNERA. GYNERIUM. Gunne'ra (nat. ord. Halorage»). An ornamental foliage plant, with leaves of an immense size, particularly valuable for margins of lakes, islands, shrubberies, and pleasure-grounds ; succeeds best in a rich loamy soil, and requires a slight winter protection. All plants of this species are hardy herbaceous perennials. The best known is Gunnera scabra, with a large spike of small flowers of a reddish colour. Gynerium or Pampas Grass. See Flowering Grasses. IVY-LEAVED GERANIUM. Round the raullioned casements twine Honeysuckle, jessamine, Clematis with purple bloom, Convolvolus, tropaeolum, And the everlasting pea Intermixed with these you'll see." ANOX. ABROTHAM'NUS nat. ord. (Solona'cese). An exceedingly hand- some greenhouse ever- green shrub, otherwise known as Cestrum corym- bosmn. It has bunches of brilliant- coloured flowers of a waxy appearance, especially useful for the winter and spring decoration of the conservatory or drawing-room. The habrothamnus may also be grown against a south wall in warm localities, with winter protection. It suc- ceeds best in a compost of peat and fine rich loam. Hammer and Appliances used in Wall Training. The hammer used by the gardener in training trees on walls is, from its shape, usually kno\vn as a "claw ham- mer.'' Its shape is shown in Fig. I. It has a striking face on one side or at one end, and the other is slightly curved and divided, so that it may be used for extract- ing nails in walls, by grasping the head of the nail in the cleft and pulling the handle backwards. By this means the nails are easily lifted out of the bricks in which they are driven, but before applying leverage to the nail by means of the hammer, it is 239 HAMMER. 240 HARPALIUM. FIG. I. — CLAW HAMMER. desirable to give it two or three light tap5; on the head. This enables the nail to be withdrawn more easily, and without bring- ing away a part of the surface of the brick, which has the effect of leaving an ugly mark upon it. The head of the claw hammer is attached to the handle by two straps, one each side, and held in place by rivets passed through straps and handle. If the hammer used is not a claw hammer, the nails should be with- drawn with a pair of common pincers, and worked gently back- wards and forwards before any attempt is made to remove them. The gardener's hammer should be tolerably heavy, and shorter in the handle than one which is used in carpentry. A hammer weighing about i Ib. or 1 1 Ib. will be found sufficiently weighty for nailing trees to walls. The gardener's claw hammer may be had for is. or is. 6d. Garden Nails. — The garden nail, or nail for brickwork, is made of cast iron, and as square in form as shown in Fig. 2. It is the only kind of nail that can be driven into brickwork. Wrought nails are altogether useless for this purpose. Being of cast iron, they are brittle, as may be supposed, and will easily break if not struck fairly and directly on the head, or if the point FIG. 2.-GAR- . , , DEN NAIL, encounters any hard substance in the brick. They are usually made in two sizes, and are sold at from 2d. to 3d. per pound. The cast-iron nails, though excellent for brickwork, are useless or wood, and if trees have to be nailed to wood wrought nails should be used, nails having a head, or clout nails, as they are called, being the best for the purpose. Shreds. — These may be made out of the list of flannel, or from any odd pieces of woollen cloth or old clothes. They should be cut in strips from 2 to 4 inches long and from \ inch to I inch in breadth. When greater holding strength is required than a single thickness will give, a larger shred should be cut, and a double thickness used, either in length or in breadth. Harmony of Colour. To have a well-formed and well-filled garden is not enough — it must also be nicely arranged as to colour ; and this latter is even of much more importance than the former. It is of great importance that the outline of the beds and their relation to each other should be good; but it is of much greater importance that the colours with which they are filled should either harmonise or contrast well with each other. The whole principle of effective grouping is based upon the fact that all colours are more or less beautiful when placed in a certain relationship to other colours. Flowers are very much influenced by their neighbours. It is not good for them to be alone; but infinitely better to be alone than in bad company. All colours are strengthened and improved by har- monious contrast and congruous blending together. Certain flowers, when placed contiguously, appear to intensify each other's depth ; others, equally beautiful in them- selves, lessen or destroy each other's beauty when placed in juxtaposition. Hence has arisen the necessity of blending and arrang- ing colours upon some generally received philosophic principle. This is briefly ex- plained in Arrangement of Colour, which Harpalium. See Helianthus. LEEKS. PARSNIPS. CELERY BEETS. HEARTSEASE. 241 HEARTSEASE. Heartsease. The common Viola lutea, with V. grandiflora and V. antenna, are the joint parents of the many beautiful flowers known to us in these days under the general name of heartsease or pansies. The history of their cultivation is this : — In the year 1812 there was living at Walton-on- Thames the Lady Mary Bennett, daughter of the Earl of Tankerville. The common heartsease was her favourite flower, and a large space in her garden was devoted to the growth of it. Her gardener, Mr. Richardson, with praise- worthy assiduity, selected the best seed each year, and was pleased to find that he could thus obtain some remarkably good varieties. These seedlings were shown by Mr. Richardson to other florists, who became interested in his experiments, and in a few years the culture of the heartsease became popu- lar ; it soon took rank among florists' flowers. Pansies are of two kinds — the English, or Show variety, and the Belgian, or Fancy variety. If it be asked what constitutes the difference between a Show and a Fancy Pansy, the answer is that it is in the "blotch," or patch of colour immediately in the vicinity of, and proceeding from, the eye, as it were, this being small in the former and large in the latter — the larger, indeed, the better. The Show pansy is divided into three classes, namely, white grounds, yellow grounds, and selfs. In a white ground pansy, the three lower petals are white or cream, the outer edge sur- rounded by a belt of darker colour, either broad or narrow, according to the variety. A yellow ground differs from the white ground in the colour only, which is yellow instead of white. The top petals in both varieties are selfs — that is, of one coloui throughout — and should be of exactly the same shade as the belt. A self is a pansy of one colour only, the blotch and eye ex- cepted. In very dark selfs no blotch it discernible. The different parts of the pansy, namely the eye, the blotch, the ground colour, and the belt, may be dis- cerned from the accompanying illustration, in which they are clearly indicated, and which represents a Show pansy. Pansies SHOW PANSY. «. Ground Colour, b. Blotch, c. Belt. d. Eye. may be propagated from seed, or by cuttings, or division of the roots ; they are suitable also for pot culture. Soil: its Preparation, &>c. — Any ordinary garden soil will do for the pansy ; but to grow them for exhibition purposes it must be properly prepared as follows : — Trencr the ground two spits deep in October 01 November, bringing the best soil to the top If the plants are to be grown in a bed i* should not be more than 4 feet in width. When dug over, the ground will be about HEARTSEASE. 242 HEARTSEASE. 3 or 4 inches above the surrounding ground, and about 6 inches of the top soil should be removed, and replaced by a compost of three parts of good rotton turf, two parts of leaf mould, and one part of good rough sand, white or grey — red sand should never be used, as it contains iron, which is, in some cases, injurious to vegetable life. The compost should be turned over at least half-a-dozen times, and well mixed before it is used. Large lumps should be broken, but the soil should not be* made too fine, as when in this condition it is apt to become pasty if the weather be wet. It is better not to put the compost on the bed until spring, or a short time before the plants are set out. Propagation by Seeds. — Seed that is in- tended for sowing should be gathered from the best flowers only— that is to say, flowers which are conspicuous for form, substance of petals, size, and good decided colours. It should be gathered just before it is ripe, otherwise the pods burst and the seed is lost, for in hot weather the pods burst suddenly, and the seed is scattered in all directions. When gathered, it should be put into envelopes, sealed down, and put in the sun to ripen fully. When ripe, sow at once if wanted for spring blooming, but for summer and autumn flowering sow in April. Seed intended for a spring display of flowers should be sown in boxes, using good light soil ; the same as that recom- mended above for plants will do very well. If the soil is damp at the time of sowing, and the boxes are kept in a shady place, no watering will be required until the seedlings make their appearance above ground ; if the soil be dry, water through a fine rose at the time of sowing. As frosty weather approaches the boxes should be placed in a cold frame. In the beginning of April transplant into beds. Propagation by Cuttings, <5rV. — Pansies lequire little attention during the autumn months. Indeed, those not intended for propagation may be dug up as soon as flowering is over. The choicer varieties must be taken care of in order that their roots may be divided or cuttings taken from them in April or May, for it is only by such annual renewal that degeneration can be prevented. Propagation by cuttings may take place any time from April to the end of October, although August and Sep- tember are the best months for the work. The young shoots that spring from the base of the plant make the best cuttings : those that have flowered have generally hollow stems ; these do not root so freely, and should not be used unless the variety is extra good or scarce. Cuttings should be taken off just below a joint, with a sharp knife. Soil for Cuttings. — The soil intended for cuttings should be fine, and a good supply of rough sand thoroughly mixed with it. Sand is absolutely necessary, as few will strike root without it. The pro- pagator will do well to place some sandy soil round the base of the plants, and also to cover with it all naked stems that are pegged down : the young shoots will root into it, and save the time and trouble of striking after they are separated from the plants. No cuttings of unhealthy plants should be put in, as these seldom do any good. The hardier kinds can be wintered successfully in the open, at the back of a north wall, or any shady nook in the gar- den, remembering never to put any under trees, as the drips will surely rot them. The best kinds should be wintered in cold frames, each variety being labelled as it is set. Culture in Pots. — Plants intended to be grown in pots should be struck from cuttings in July or August. When rooted, plant in 4-inch pots with a few crocks at the bottom, using the same kind of soil as for plants in the beds, then place in a cold frame, plung- HEAT, BOTTOM. 243 HEDGES. ing the pots up to the rims in ashes or cocoa-nut fibre ; plenty of air should be given, not forgetting to water when re- quired. Keep in the frame until the end of March or the beginning of April, giving plenty of air on warm days. Then shift into 8-inch pots, and plunge in ashes or fibre as before. Keep close for a few days, and then admit air gradually. All plants should have short sticks placed to them, and the shoots tied carefully to the sticks. Plants in pots often furnish splendid blooms for exhibition. Heat, Bottom. See Bottom Heat. Heaths. See Erica or Heath Hedera. See ivy. Hedges. Hedges, if properly managed, undoubt edly constitute the cheapest and most last ing, as well as the most ornamental, of all the artificial divisions of land. Few persons will object to the opinion, that the country where fields are divided by the common white thorn or may, presents a far more agreeable appearance at all seasons of the year, and especially during spring, when the thorns are in blossom, than those parts where dwarf stone walls are made to answer the same purpose. The White Thorn, however, though most commonly employed, is not the only plant that can be made use of for separating one piece of ground from another. Though for fields it is, perhaps, as useful as any, still, for park and garden purposes, there are many other plants which may be advantageously employed. Thorns. — The different kinds of thorn tertainly embrace all the constituents of a good hedge : they are of easy culture, quick growth, and capable of being trained in any direction ; they branch out and thicken under pruning, and are not over particular as to soil ; but there are many other plants far more ornamental which will fulfil all these conditions equally well. For some time the chief objection to the general in- troduction of most of these was the cost, but this is an objection that is rapidly being got rid of, for hollies, and several other evergreens, can be raised at almost as small an expense as thorns. Upon every large estate the woodman should have his seed- bed of hollies, evergreen oaks, and other things that can be used for hedge purposes. Holly, — Few things have a better appear- ance than a well-kept holly hedge. The best variety for the purpose is Ilex Aqui- folium, the Common Holly. In forming a holly hedge, the ground should be prepared by trenching, and, if the soil be poor and sandy, it will be well to let it have a dress- ing of manure. The best plants are those of three years' growth, which have had one jshitt trom tne seed-bed. They »nouid ue i taken up carefully with as much soil on the roots as possible, and planted soofl after midsummer, if possible, during the rains of lulv A oroad trancn should be dug, capable 01 receiving tne plants, which should be placed in it singly, with their roots well spread out. If the weather be dry at the time, the best plan is to water the bottom of the trench and to give no water afterward, unless a severe drought should set in. The next season, if they be well rooted, the young plants may be moderately pruned with the knife, after which they will branch out and form them- selves into a good hedge. Yew. — Next to holly for forming a com- pact and durable hedge is the yew. It bears close clipping, takes up but little space, and is a good shelter throughout the year. The yew, however, must only be used for garden purposes, or, at any rate, in places where cattle can be kept from it, fcr horses and all cattle are very fond of the yew. and will eat greedily the young HEDGES. 244 HEDGES. spring leaves, though they are very injurious, and often fatal to them. Box and Privet. — The same objection attaches to two other plants, which make very useful and ornamental hedges — the box and the privet. Both these should be kept out of the way of cattle. In gardens and pleasure-grounds they may be used with very good effect, for they bear clipping almost better than anything else, and are very neat and compact. The privet mixes well with the thorn, where greater strength is required than can be had by using privet alone. Cydonia Japonica. — Those persons who have travelled in Holland and Belgium have no doubt noticed the neat manner in which small enclosures of land are separated from each other by their thrifty and indus- trious owners. The hedges are trained along stakes and rods placed for the pur- pose, and to these the plants of which they are composed are tied with pieces of osier. In this way every slender branch is laid in, and, as they are made to cross each other frequently, a regular network is formed. These hedges, when in leaf, are very close and tight, they take up very little room, and form scarcely any harbour for small birds. Many of our ornamental shrubs might be trained in this way to form hedges— the Cydonia Japonica, fre- quently but erroneously called Pyrus Japonica, for instance, which is close, quick-growing, and bears a most beautiful flower. This plant is as hardy as any native British plant, and very easily pro- pagated. There can be no doubt that if young plants were wanted for ornamental garden hedges, they would soon be pro- duced at a very reasonable rate. - .*" Cotoneaster. — The cotoneaster, again, may be employed for the same purpose and in the same way. Cutting-- of cotoneaster taken in August and put into the shade, will be rooted well enough for planting out next spring. When planted, they should be about I foot or i foot 6 inches apart, and have a trellis of stakes or hazel rods to support them. This hedge will require, at first, a good deal of attention in training and entwining the branches ; but when 3 or 4 feet high it may be clipped and kept in shape. Veronica. — The different veronicas also make firm hedges, and are very handsome when in flower. Strong bushes may be planted 3 feet apart and trained to stretched wires, which, in this case, are better than stakes. In Guernsey the hydrangea is sometimes used to form a hedge to a grass field, and nothing could be more beautiful. Both this and the veronica, however, are not sufficiently hardy to admit of their being used except in the extreme south. Aucuba. — Such, however, is not the case with the aucuba, which is so hardy that we imagine it might be used in most parts of England. It is easily cultivated and might be trained to stretched wire. Barberry. — An American writer recom- mends the common barberry, Berberis vulgaris, as a hedge-plant. " A hedge- plant," he says, " to become popular, must be perfectly hardy and easy to propagate. It should also be vigorous enough to grow well in ordinary soil without manure. It should be thorny to keep cattle off, and low enough to require little or no pruning. The common barberry combines these qualities better than any plant that I am acquainted with. It is remarkably hardy, thriving well in a great variety of soils, and is said to live for centuries. It has a shrubby habit, growing from 6 to 10 feet in height, yellowish thorny wood, leaves in rosettes, yellow flowers on drooping race- mes, and scarlet oblong berries, very acid, but making delicious preserves. We have a barberry hedge," he continues, " in our grounds at Wallingford, Connecticut, 24 rods long, and nine years old, from the HEDGES, FORMATION OF. 245 HELIANTHUS. seed. Two rows of plants were set, the rows i foot apart and the plants I foot apart in the rows, and set alternately to break joints. This hedge has been clipped a little two or three times to keep it even, and is now 6 or 7 feet high, with a firm, compact base, perfectly impervious to the smaller animals, and stout enough to turn ordinary farm stock. An important item, as regards this plant, is its habit of sending up suckers from the bottom, by which, in a few years, it comes to have abase 6 to 12 inches in diameter." Conifers. — There is no doubt that many conifers would make excellent hedges, all that is required being that they should be supplies at a suitable price. At present they are a great deal too dear to be used for such purposes, except, perhaps, on a very small scale. But as most, even of the choicest varieties, grow very freely from cuttings as well as from seed, there is no question that a great reduction could and would be made if the demand were such as to warrant a more extensive culture. We know that the common Scotch fir is used, with very good effect, both as a fence and shelter along many of our lines of railroad. When headed down this fir throws out strong laterals, which, interlacing each other, make a very substantial and lasting hedge. The young plants should be set closely, and as they grow up, any weak places can easily be stopped by rails cross- ing the stems. Like all other hedges, these require occasional training and atten- tion. Hedges, Formation of. In forming any hedge, it is of course necessary to take into consideration the aspect, the quality of the soil, and all other particulars that conduce to the healthy state of vegetable life. The skill of the gardener is hardly anywhere more discern- ible than in the exercise of that statesman- like quality which consists of putting the right thing in the right place. All plants will not suit all climates, all situations, and all soils. It is wise, therefore, to consider that though there are many ornamental plants and shrubs -that will make good hedges, it is not all of these that may choose to flourish where we wish our hedge to grow. As a general rule, the knife may be used unsparingly in all things suitable for hedges, and the hedge itself will be greatly improved by its use. All hedges, but especially those that bear the shears or clippers, should be cut upwards to a narrow ridge, for, by this means, the lower part not being overshadowed by the upper, will be kept thick, and the hedge will last sound much longer. After they have been planted several years, hedges of most materials will require to be cut down, the soil renovated, and, perhaps, new plants introduced. This necessity, however, is very generally the result of neglect in early years, for where proper care has been bestowed and annual pruning given, hedges will last as long as brick walls. Helian'tilUS (nat. ord. Compos'itse). A genus of hardy annual and perennial popularly known as Sunflowers, remarkable for their Stately growth and the brilliancy and size of their noble flowers ; they are eminently adapted for dispersing in shrub- bery borders. Round the margins of lakes, ponds, and wherever plants of this charac- ter are required, this genus will be found extremely effective. The common sun- flower (Helianthus annuus) is an annual, but of this there are many varieties, pos- sessed of great floral beauty. Pre-eminent among these are H. a. globosus fistulosui and H. a. Californicus plenissimus. These are particularly adapted for mixed flower- borders and large beds in conspicuous situations. They grow freely in any rich soil. HELICHRYSUM. 246 HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS. Among the perennial varieties that known as Harpalium rigidum^ which is about 2\ inches in height and has a beauti- ful flower with a black disc richly studded SUNFLOWER (HELIANTHUS ANNUUS). with yellow stamens and surrounded with petals of a brilliant yellow, is strongly recommended. The 'harpalium is now included among the sunflowers : hence its mention here. (nat. ord. Compos'itse). These beautiful plants, mostly half-hardy or hardy herbaceous perennials and hardy annuals are commonly known as " ever- lastings" ; they are exceedingly effective in mixed flower-borders. The flowers, if cut when young, make pretty winter bouquets. There are many varieties, but Helichrysum bracteatum and those akin to it, namely, H. b. aureum, H. b. bicolor^ H. b. compo- situm, H. b. macranthum, and H. b. ni- beum, are all equally beautiful, and suitable alike for borders or as pot plants for in- door decoration. These annuals are raised from seed sown in gentle heat in March and transplanted to the open borders early in April. The perennials are propagated by cuttings planted in April, also in gentle heat. These should be kept close. Heliotro'pium (nat. ord. Boragin- a'cese). The heliotropiums or heliotropes are profuse-flowering and deliciously fragrant plants, valuable for bedding, ribboning, rustic baskets, and pot-culture. Seeds sown in spring make fine plants for summer and autumn decoration ; they succeed in light rich soil. The best plants are .obtained from cuttings in the same way as verbenas and bedding calceolarias. All the helio- tropes are very sensitive of frost. " Cherry Pie " is a popular name for the heliotrope, from the supposed resemblance of its odour to that of the pie named. Helleborus Niger, or Black Hel- lebore. See Christmas Rose. Herbaceous Perennials. Herbaceous plants are very beautiful, and a good collection of them makes a very fine display in any garden. At all events, it maybe said that this class of plants, with HARPALIUM RIGIDUM (see HELIANTHUS). hardy bulbs, is best suited for gardeners who are possessed of but little experience, and who, for lack of time or other reasons, cannot pay so much attention to horticul- ture as they might otherwise wish. HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS. 247 HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS. Soil. — Any ordinary garden soil is suit- able for herbaceous perennials ; but soil that is light and easily worked, and is moderately rich in humus, is more^suitable HELICHRYSUM BRACTEATUM (see HELICHRVSUM.) for these plants, taken generally, than heavy, lumpy soil, although many will grow even in this. Culture. — Some plants of this class are propagated by division of the roots, made in February or March, just as they are showing indications of making fresh growth. Others may be propagated by means of layers or cuttings, or raised from seed. Herbaceous plants are improved, and will be more healthy and sightly, and flower better, if they are taken up every three or four years, divided or reduced in size if needful, and then separated after digging the ground somewhat deeply, turning it over and breaking it up thoroughly. Plant firmly, pressing the earth well round the collar of each plant. The borders in which herbaceous plants are set should be kept clean and free from weeds. The plants themselves should be watered occasionally, if the situation and summer draughts are such as to render it necessary; those requiring support from sticks should be carefully staked, and when the flower stalks and flowers begin to wither, they should be removed. This comprehends nearly every thing that is necessary in the treatment of herbaceous plants, but to this may be appended the following instructions. To insure good flowers, a few strong stems of such plants as phloxes, asters, &c., must be secured, in preference to a multiplicity of smaller ones. Consequently, they require frequent and severe subdividing ; the early months of the year, up to April, being the best period for performing this operation. Others, again, such as gentians, iberis, alyssums, achilleas, and similar flowering plants, thrive best without being often dis- turbed, and must be increased by small- rooted offsets. These should be planted in the reserve garden for the summer, and transferred to their flowering quarters next year. Double Rockets, Scarlet Lychnis, Hollyhocks, and other double-flowering plants, are often increased by cuttings. These can generally be obtained either by thinning the young shoots in the spring, or by securing all that appear at the bottom of the flowering-stems in the autumn. Whenever taken, they should be inserted in sandy soil, covered with a hand- or bell- HELIOTROPE (see HELIOTROPIUM). glass, and receive a gentle warmth until rooted. If in the spring, they will of course be transferred to the reserve garden HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS. 248 HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS. as soon as the rooting and gradual harden ing processes are completed. If in th< autumn, they will be safer under sheltei until the end of April. In either case with liberal treatment, they may flower the following summer. To induce autumn struck cuttings to do this, however, they must be potted off in rich soil as soon rooted, shifted into separate pots, anc receive the stimulus of a genial atmosphere and shelter from the weather. All the mints, galiums, and other plants with run- ning or creeping roots, are so easily and obviously increased as to require no instruc- tions. All single-flowering herbaceous plants may be increased readily by seed. This may either be sown as soon as ripe, or after September in pots. If sown in early spring on beds of light soil, and the plants carefully transplanted two or three times during the summer, they may be trans- ferred to their blooming quarters in November : if they have been properly treated, they will flower profusely the following season. Herbaceous Perennials, List of. The following is a list of herbaceous perennials, showing, when possible, the familiar garden name, and the height in inches and colour of the flowers : — Acanthus tnollis, 48, lilac. „ latifolius, 48, lilac. Adenpphera liliftora, 12, blue. Adonis vernalis, 9, yellow. Alstrcemeria aurea, golden orange. Other va- rieties of different colours. Plant deep in light soil. Alyssum saxatile, 6, yellow. Anemone Appenina, 6, blue, early bloomer. ,, coronaria {Garden Anemone), 9, various. „ fulgens, 12, brilliant scarlet. Likes calcareous soil. „ hortensis, 9, various. „ Japonica, 24, pure white, red, rose. „ narcissiflora, 12, yellow, white. „ pavonia, 12, crimson, scarlet. „ Pennsylvania, 12, white. Anthericum liliastrum, 12, white. Antirrhinum majus (.Snapdragon), 24, various. Aquilegia caerulea, 18, pale blue and white. Aquilegia chrysantha, 24, yellow. ,, glandulpsa, 18, blue and white. „ Skinneri, 18, dark scarlet and yellow. vulgaris (Columbine), 24, various. Arabis albida, 6, white. Asclepias tuberosa, 24, orange, scarlet. Likes peat. Asphodelus luteus, 36, yellow. Aster amelloides (Michaelmas Daisy), 24,purple. „ alpinus, 12, lilac blue. Aubrietia deltoides, 4, purple. „ Graeca, 4, rosy lilac. Baptisia Australis, 30, blue, shy bloomer. Bellis perennis (Daisy), 6, red, white, variegated. Bocconia Japonica, 60, cream colour. Calystegia pubescens (Double Convolvulus), 60, climber, rose. Campanula Carpatica, 6, blue, white. „ latifolia, 50, deep slaty blue. ,, nobilis, 18, purple, white. „ pumila, 6, greyish blue, white. „ pyramidalis, 45, pale blue, white. „ turbinata, 6, pale blue. Catanauche caerulea, 36, blue. Cantaurea montana, 18, blue. Cerastium tomentosum, 6, white. Valuable for foliage. Cheiranthus Cheiri (Wallflower), 24, various. Cistus helianthemum, 9, various colours. Clematis integrifolia, 36, blue. Clematis montana, 60, climber, white in clusters. ,, recta, 24, white. Convallaria majalis, (Lily of the Valley), 9, white. Convolvolus Mauritanicus, trailer, light blue. Corydalis bulbpsa, 9, purple, rose. „ nobilis, 12, pale yellow. Cucumis perennis, large climber, suitable for arbours. Delphinium cardinale, 24, bright scarlet. „ Cashmerianum, 15, blue and mauve. „ formpsum, 40, brilliant intense blue. ,, hybridum flore pleno, 24, various colours. „ nudicaule, 18, scarlet. Useful for pot culture. Dianthus caryophyllus (Carnation, &c.), 18, various. ,i dentosus, 9, various colours. „ plumarius (Pink), 9, various. ,, superbus, 18, bright lilac. Dictamnus fraxinella, 30, red, in strong spikes. Dielytra spectabilis, 21, pink, white. Dodecathepn Meadia, 12, pale spotted with yellow, white. Like shade and peaty soil. Epimedium macranthum, 8, white. „ pinnatum, 10, yellow. „ purpureum, 8, purple and yellow. Sremurus spectabilis, 24, yellow. Srigeron speciosum, 24, lilac blue, yellow centre. Srinus alpinus, 6, brilliant violet red. iritrichum nanum, i, sky blue. Suitable for rockwork. Sryngium Alpinum, 24, blue. Erythronium dens canis (Dog's tooth Violet, 6, rosy purple, deep lilac, white, rose. „ „ „ Americanum, 6, white, with purple spot. ,, ,. i, grandiflorum,6,yellow HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS. 249 HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS. Ferula comtnunis (Common Fennel), 70, yellow Remarkable for beauty of foliage, and useful for culinary purposes. Funkia alba, 24, white. Handsome foliage. „ Japonica, 18, greyish white. ,. lancifolia, 24, bluish white. Funkia oyata, 18, blue, dark glossy green leaves. Gaultheria procumbens, 6, white, with cherry- like berries. Gaura Lindheimeria, 24, rosy white. Gentiana acaulis, 4, intense blue. ,, lutea, 48, yellow. ,, verna, 4, rich brilliant blue. Geranium Lancastriense, 3, rose, with darker stripes. , „ tuberosum, 15, mauve. Geum coccineum. 18, bright scarlet. Gypsophila paniculata, 30, white, beautiful foliage. Harpalium rigidum, 36, yellow, black centre. Helleborus niger (Christmas Rose), 12, white and various. Hemerocallis flava (Day Lily), 24, soft yellow. Hepatica triloba, 6, blue, red, white. Hesperis matronalis, 24, purple, white. Hieracium aurantiacum, 18, orange. Hoteia Japonica (Spirea\ 24, white, pink. Iberis sempervirens (Candytuft), g, white. Iris fcetidissima (Stinking Glad-wyn), 30, bluish lilac. Remarkable for seed pods. Likes moist situation. „ Germanica (Blue Flag), 24, blue and various colours. graminea, n, dark violet blue. Kcempferi (Japanese Iris), 18, various colours, pumila, 10, various colours. Sibirica, 24, white, with blue veins. Susiana, 24, greyish white veined with purple. Lathyrus grandifolius, 45, rosy red. „ latifolias, (Everlasting Pea), 96, red, white. Lewisia rediviva, 6, pink. Requires sun and dry situation. Liatris pychnostachya, 3, purple, magenta. Linum flavum, 10, yellow. Likes sun and dry situation. Lobelia fulgens, 30, spikes of intense scarlet. Lupinus polyphytlus, 36, blue, white. Lychnis Alpina, 6, rose colour. „ fulgens, 18, scarlet. „ grandiflora, i2,brightred. Delicate in habit. „ Chalcedonica, 24, scarlet, white. ,, viscaria flore pleno, 12, purple. Lysimachia nummularia (Creeping Jenny or Moneywort), trailer, brilliant yellow. ,, verticillasa, 12, yellow. Lythrum rpseurn, 36, rose celour. „ salicaria (Purple Loosestrife), 36, purple. Mimulus cardinalis, 24, scarlet. t, moschatus (Musk), 6, yellow. Morma longifolia, 24, purplish scarlet. Myosotis alpestris, 3, blue, with yellowish eye. „ dissitiflora, 9, deep sky blue. „ palustris, o, blue, with yellow throat. Nierembergia gracilis, 6, white, veined with lilac. CEnothera acaulis, 6, white. „ Fraseri, 18, yellow. ,, rnacrocarpa, 12, pale yellow. Omphalodes verna, 6, blue. Opuntia Rafinesquiana, 12, yellow, with hand- some fruit. A Cactus hardy on dry rockwork. Orobus vernus, 12, purple. Paeonia officinalis, 24, crimson, scarlet, pink, white. „ tenuifolia, 18, deep crimson. Papaver bracteatum, 48, brilliant scarlet, fclack spot at base of petal. Pardanthus Chinensis, 12, orange. Likes shelter. Pentstemon barbata coccinea, ^6, rich scarlet. „ J affray anus, 18, blue, with purple stair »ns. Phlox decussata hybrida, 30, various colours. ,i setacea, 4, pale pink, spotted with purple. „ subulata, 4, pink, darker in centre. „ verna, 6, pucy red. Phytolacca decandra, 100, white changing to pink. Platycodpn grandiflorum, 30, blue. Polemonium caeruleum, 24, blue, white. Polygonatum vulgare, (Solomon's Seal), 24, white, tipped with green. Polygonum Sieboldi, 50, white, with large foliage. Potentilla hybrida, 18, purple, red, yellow, and various colours. Primula acaulis (Common Primrose), 6, yellow, and various colours. Double varieties, white, lilac, crimson, purple. ,, cortusoides amcena, i, purple. Better for rockwork or pot culture than for the open border. „ elatior (Polyanthus), various. „ Japonica, 15, purple, crimson, lilac, white. Pulmonaria Sibirica, 36, blue. ,, virginica, 18, blue. Ramondia Pyrenaica, 6, violet, purple, orange centre. Ranunculus aconitifolius, 12, pure white and double. „ acris , 24, golden yellow, and double. „ Asiaticus (Persian Ranunculus), 12, various. Sanguinaria Canadensis, 6, white, with orange stamens. Saxifraga cotelydon, 18, white, in pyramidal spike. „ crassifolia, 9, dark pink. ,, umbrosa (London Pride), 9, white dotted with pink and yellow. Scabiosa caucasica, 24, pale blue. Schizostylis coccinea, 18, scarlet. Sedum fabarium, 12, pink, in large bunches. Silene Schafta, 9, rosy purple. Soldanella Alpina, 3, dark bluish purple. Spigelia Marylandica, 12, red, with yellow interior. Spiraea aruncus (Goats Beard), 60, white, chiefly desirable for its fern-like foliage. „ filipendula flore pleno, 18, white. ,, palmata, 24, crimson, white. Statice mcana, 18, pink or mauve. sinuata, 24, blue, in spherical bunches. Thalictrum aquilegifolium, 36, white. glaucum, 60, yellow. .} purpurescens, ^6, yellow. Thladiante dubia, quick-growing ornamental climber, with bell-shaped yellow flowers. Tricyrtis hirta, 30, white, spotted with purple. HERBARIUM. 250 HERBARIUM. Trillium grandiflorum, 12, pure white. Tritama pumila, 12, orange. ,, uvaria (Red-hot Poker Plant), 36, spike bright red at top, orange below. Trollius Asiaticus, 12, orange. „ Europaeus, 12, golden yellow. Tussilago fragrans, 12, white. Valeriana rubra, 18, red. Veratrum nigrum, 48, white, on straight stem. Verbascum Phceniceum, 48, yellow, in spikes. Vinca major (Periwinkle), 18, trailer, bluish lilac. Viola cornuta, 3, various tints of blue. ,, odorata (Common Violet), 3, various colours. Zauschneria Californica, 12, scarlet. Herbarium, or Hortus Siccus. Plants intended for the herbarium should be gathered in flower, and when small, they should be taken with the root. The plants, in this state, are placed between leaves of paper prepared for the purpose, and between two boards, or under one, from which they are not removed until they have become perfectly flat. Where there are conveniences for so doing, the packet may, with great advantage, be placed in an oven. When dry, change the paper. Some plants, as orchids and bulbs, will sometimes vegetate for months in the her- barium after they have been placed there. If plunged into boiling water for a minute, and immediately afterwards placed between paper, their drying will be more rapid. If the plants are unknown or new, indicate their popular names, the height at which they were procured, and their habit ; also their size, as well as their odour. In order to be prepared for collecting, provide some sheets of paper of a suitable size (16 inches by 12 is a good size) and several boards of the same proportion. These should be formed of two thin boards glued together, the grain of the one trans- verse to the other. These may be connec- ted together by means of straps, so as to communicate considerable pressure. A large book of blotting-paper between two other similar planks will complete this temporary herbarium. Insects are the bane of all collections ; and great care is required in order to pre- serve the plants that have been collected. Sir James Smith used a wash composed of corrosive sublimate two drachms, spirits of wine, in which a small piece of camphor was dissolved, one pint. This wash should be lightly applied, so that all the raphides of the flowers, and the fleshy parts of the plant, are saturated with it. Beautiful specimens are prepared by an apparatus to which the name of M. Le Coq, professor of natural history at Clermont- Ferrand, has been given. This apparatus consists of two open covers made of strong iron-wire network, having an iron frame round them, in which the plants are placed between thick blotting-paper. After they have been kept under pressure for a few hours, the covers are compressed by means of straps; and the open network of the frame allows the moisture to escape freely while the plants are gradually dried. There is a mode of preparing the skele- ton leaves of plants which forms a very beautiful object in itself, but which is still more interesting from the manner in which it exhibits the cellular system of plants, with which we shall supplement these remarks. Get the leaves from the middle of sum- mer to September ; put them in one gallon of soft water, let them soak for about a month, and then take out a leaf and try it ; if it is ready, the green coat will rub off directly, and leave the fibre. Some will take two months before they are ready, but you can always tell by rubbing the leaf in the way above described. After obtaining the skeleton of the leaves, place them in one quart of water, with two table- spoonfuls of chloride of lime, well mixed : let them remain about twelve hours, and they will be perfectly white. Keep them n a close box until you want to use them. The best and most ornamental way to mount them, is to get either round or oval HERBARIUM. 251 HERB-GARDEN. shades, and gilt or black stands : cover the stand with velvet, black or coloured, according to taste, and then arrange the leaves so as to form a pretty group when the shade is placed over it : with chenille, it will be a very handsome ornament. Reverting to the herbarium : Nothing that is not dried in the best manner pos- sible, its colours and configuration pre- served as perfectly as the nature of the plant will admit, ought never to be allowed a permanent place in the herbarium ; the bad may be tolerated a while, in default of better, but the further a specimen is from vivid and pleasing resemblance to the living thing, the speedier should be the endeavour to supersede it. Specimens from abroad that cannot be superseded of SKELETON LEAF. course are not spoken of. In the plants within reach, none but admirable represen- tatives of their best features while alive should be considered worthy of a place. Plants dry very variously. Some require not a moment's trouble, others demand patience. Grasses and their allies, most kinds of ferns, plants that resemble heather, everlastings, the mature leaves of shrubs and trees, call for only the minimum. Those which try the patience, and can be managed only after considerable experience with easy ones, are such as may be illus- trated by mention of the hyacinth. To secure the best results, obtain half a dozen pieces of stout millboard cut to about 18 ! inches by 12 inches. Then gather together a hundred old newspapers, and fold them neat and square to about the dimensions of the millboards. Four of 5 yards of common white cotton wadding, a score of sheets of tissue paper and as many of blotting paper, all cut to the same size, complete the apparatus. One of the boards serves for the foundation ; on this only a newspaper, then a piece of wadding, and upon this place the specimen intended to be dried. The cotton being soft and retentive, every portion can be laid in a proper and natural way, including the petals of the flowers. A newspaper above — two or three if the specimens have thick stems — and so on, till all shall be deposited in the way of the first. If the specimens are sticky, or hairy, or of a kind that the wadding seems likely to adhere to, then, before depositing them on it, introduce a half-sheet of the tissue paper. A heavy weight must be put on the top of all, sufficient to embed the speci- mens in the wadding ; then leave the whole to rest for twenty-four hours. All the papers must then be changed, dry ones being put in their place ; and if the plant seems to throw off a very considerable amount of moisture, such as will render the wadding quite damp, change the wad- ding also. A second and even a third change is desirable at the end of two or three days or a week ; and when this is made introduce the blotting-paper, press- ing again till everything is perfectly flat, and the specimens are absolutely dry. Herb-Garden. The olitory, or herb-garden, is a depart- ment of horticulture somewhat neglected, and yet the culture and curing of simples was formerly a part of a lady's education. All the sweet herbs are pretty, and a strip of ground half-way between the kitchen and the flower-garden would keep them; more immediately under the eye of the HIBISCUS. 252 HOES AND HOEING. mistress. This would probably recover, for our soups and salads, some of the neg- lected tarragons, French sorrel, purslain, chervil, dill, and clary, which are only found now in the pages of the old herbals. Laid out after a simple geometric design, the herb-garden might be rather orna- mental than otherwise. Most of the herbs are propagated by slips in the autumn. Basil, burnet, and other herbs, require to be sown early in spring, on slight hotbeds of about 2 feet in depth ; but many culti- vators leave them later, and sow in the open ground. Thyme, the marjoram, including pot and sweet knotted marjoram, savory, hyssop, chervil, and coriander, may be sown in dry mild weather, to be trans- planted afterwards. Sow in shallow drills about half an inch deep and 8 or 9 inches apart, and cover in evenly with the soil. Mint may be propagated by separating the roots, and planting them in drills drawn with a hoe 6 inches asunder, covering them with an inch of earth, and raking smooth. They will quickly take root, and grow freely for use in the summer. This method may be applied to the several sorts of spear- mint, peppermint, and lamb mint. The whole family of borage, burnet, clary, marigolds, carduus, dill, fennel, buglos, sorrel, and angelica, may be sown about the middle of March, when the weather is open. Sow moderately thin in drills or beds (each sort separate), in good light soil ; if in drills 6 inches apart ; some of the plants may remain where planted, after a thinning for early use ; others may be planted out in the summer. Cultural duections respecting herbs are given under the name of each plant. Hibis'GUS (nat. ord. Malva'cea). The members of this genus are for the most part beautiful and showy plants. Whether the hardy sorts be planted in mixed or shrubbery borders, or the more tender varieties be grown for in-door deco- ration, they are all alike characterised by the size and varied colours of their flowers. Those intended for in-door culture require a compost of fibrous peat and rich fine loam with a large proportion of sand. A little charcoal in the soil is often bene- ficial. The hardier sorts like a light sandy soil, and are propagated by sowing seeds or by cuttings. The stove and greenhouse plants are propagated from seeds sown over gentle bottom heat, or by cuttings taken early in the spring, say April, and set in a close frame. The best known varieties are Hibiscus Africanus, otherwise H. Trionum, or Bladder Ketmia, yellow with a purple centre, hardy annual, ij feet in height, H. fedunculatus, rosy pink, beautiful, a greenhouse shrub 3 feet in height j H. rosa- Sinensis, or Chinese Rose with flowers of various colours from 10 to 15 feet in height ; H. coccineus, bright scarlet flowers from 4 to 5 feet high, and H. roseus, with large pink flowers, from 4 to 5 feet high. Hints on Sowing Seeds. See Seeds, Hints on Sowing, and Germina- tion. Hoes and Hoeing. As the pick is used for loosening hard soil, and the spade and fork for preparing and working mould that is sufficiently loose in itself to be readily penetrated by this implement, so the hoe may be said to have its special use for cleansing purposes, though it is also serviceable in loosening and stirring the surface of the soil amid growing crops, as well as for destroying weeds. Hoes are of many forms, but they may be broadly classified as draw hoes and thrust hoes. As these names imply, the draw hoe is pulled towards the oper- ator, and the thrust hoe is pushed from him. Hoes for the most part are made with sockets, into which a handle of ash HOES AND HOEING. 253 HOES AND HOEING. preferably, but sometimes of pine, is in- serted, and when the shank of the socket is long enough it is secured to the handle with a rivet. The handle of a hoe should FIG. I. — VARIETIES OF DRAW HOES. a. Short neck Hoe. b. Long-neck Hoe. c. Swan- neck or Bury Hoe. d. Triangular Hoe. be from 4 to 5 feet in length. The handles of draw hoes are usually shorter than those of thrust hoes. The chief varieties of draw hoes are shown in Fig. I, in which A represents the short-neck hoe, B the long- neck hoe, c the swan-neck or Bury hoe, from the bent formation of the part of the neck between the blade and the socket, and D the triangular hoe. This last form of hoe is convenient for cutting up weeds, as its corners are sharper than those of the hoes with square blades, and the corners of the blade are always used for cutting out and pulling away weeds from the soil. Sometimes hoes were made with a slight wedge-shaped shank, like the tang of a chisel, &c., which was driven into the end of the wooden handle, splitting being pre- vented by encircling the end of the handle with an iron band ring, about \ inch or f inch wide. The varieties of the thrust hoe are shown in Fig. 2, for the weeding tool called a spud may be regarded as a variety of thrust hoe. The Dutch hoe, or scuffle, as it is sometimes called, is shown at A. It consists of a sharp and comparatively narrow blade, attached to the socket by two arms, which spring from the lower end of the latter, and are fastened at their CXT tremities to the blade, one on one side and one on the other. The blade of the hoe being thus attached forms an angle with the handle, and by this means is almost parallel to the surface of the soil when in use. The edge is thrust into the earth with a pushing motion and cuts up the weeds, which, with the surface soil, pass through the aperture between the arms." By this arrangement the tool meets with far less resistance, and the labour is rendered far lighter than it would be if the opening was closed, or even if the socket for the handle proceeded immediately from the centre of the blade. The spud, shown at B, consists of a stiff narrow blade, with a socket to admit of its attachment to a handle. It is used for cutting up docks, dandelions, thistles, and other weeds. There is another form shown at c, with a horn proceeding from the upper left-hand corner of the blade. This projection is utilised as a hook for pulling up weeds, or FIG. 2.— VARIETIES OF THE THRUST HOE. a. Scuffle or Dutch Hoe. b. Spud. c. Combined Spud and Weed spud. Hook. hooking down any tangled growth, &c. All kinds of hoes, except the swan-neck, the triangular hoe, and the spud, are made in sizes ranging from 3 inches to 10 inches, measuring along the edge of the blade, in- creasing by i inch from the smallest to HOLLY. 254 HOLLYHOCK. the largest. The smallest size of swan- neck hoe is 4 inches : the largest size of triangular hoe 8 inches, the former going up to 10 inches, and the latter commencing at 3 inches. Spuds are made in three sizes, namely, 2 inch, 2^ inch, and 3 inch. Short -neck, long-neck, and swan-neck hoes are also made with blades having a curved or crescent-shaped edge, in which case they are called halfmoon hoes. See also Prices of Hoes. Holly. There is a large variety of shrubs of an evergreen character, which are not only highly ornamental in themselves, but extremely valuable as preserving a fresh appearance in nature, even during the dreary months of winter ; also in affording a continual shade and shelter to other things. Chief among these are the Ilex aquifoliuniy the common holly, and Quercus ilex, the evergreen oak, both handsome evergreens, and rich in varieties, but pre- ference must be given to the former. Not only is the holly the brightest of all ever- greens in the rich green colour of its leaves, but its magnificent scarlet berries give to it an additional charm. There are many varieties of the ilex, and few things are more interesting than a good collection of these within an arboretum, or space so limited as to afford an opportunity for observing their differences of growth and foliage. /. a. alba-marginatay the silver- edged holly, and /. a. aurea-marginata, 'the golden-edged holly, are both very beautiful ; so also are /. a. ciliatum, the hairy holly ; /. a. ferox, the hedgehog holly ; /. a. ovata, the oval-leaved holly ; and 7. latifolia, the broad-leaved holly ; all presenting a striking appearance. Hollyhock. There is no finer ornament of the autumnal flower garden than the hollyhock. Its noble, tapering, spike-like stem and rich rosettes of flowers clustering round the footstalks of the leaves, and its panicled head and luxuriant massive leaves, render it the most effective occupant of a gap in the shrubbery, or in the back row of an herbaceous border, or even in rows in the flower garden, or in beds by themselves, their variety of colour renders them most attractive objects. The drawback to the perfection of the hollyhock, for many years after its first introduction, was its coarse habit of growth and thin transparent flower petals, which gave a flimsy appearance to its convolute flowers, and tended to early HOLLYHOCK. decay. Much of this objectionable habit had been overcome by the perseverance of the growers, and under the careful hand of skilful culture the petals have become thicker, and, consequently, the colour is more dense and decided, the centre of the flowers better defined individually, while forming a denser spike of flowers from within a foot of the ground to the summit of the stem: Propagation by Seeds. — The seeds of the hollyhock should be gathered only from the most perfect plants, in which the flowers have been round, the florets thick and smooth on the edge, the colour dens* HOLLYHOCK. 255 HOLLYHOCK. and decided, and the flowers close to each other on the stem. About the middle of March, or not later than the first week in April, the seed bed should be prepared, 4 feet wide, with an alley on each side. The soil should be rich and in good heart ; such soil as would suit a cabbage will grow the hollyhock in tolerable perfection. Trench the bed 2 feet deep, throwing the top spit to the bottom, and bringing the second spit to the surface, if both are of the same character of loamy, somewhat tenacious soil, breaking up the surface thoroughly. On this bed, raked smooth, sow the seed so thickly as to come up an inch apart, and uift over the seeds some rich dry soil, so as to cover trusm for about an inch. Seeds of the hollyhock may be obtained from any nurseryman or seeds- man, as may seedlings also for planting out. Treatment of Seedlings. — When the young plants come up and begin to grow, the weeds must be kept down, and vigorous growth encouraged by watering in dry weather. In June they will bear removal to a nursery bed, prepared in the same manner as the seed bed. If the seed- lings have been growing vigorously, the roots will be strong, and must not be broken in taking up ; this may be pre- vented by soaking the bed thoroughly the night previous to removal, and lifting the plants cautiously with a fork inserted under them, as in lifting potatoes. Plant them in the new bed 6 inches apart each way, using a dibber, making a hole large enough to receive the roots, and pressing the earth round them by making another hole on each side with the point of the dibber, watering the bed thoroughly when planted. When dry and somewhat settled, rake the beds smooth, giving the same care as to weeding and watering when dry, as well as destroying slugs, earwigs, and insects. Planting in Blooming Quarters. — In the autumn they will be strong plants, fit \ to put out where they are to bloom. If they are intended to bloom in rows where they stand, every other plant must now be removed, so as to leave them one foot apart all over the bed ; here they may be supported by strong stakes placed at both ends of each row, and a strong cord carried from one to the other, to which the plants are to be tied. As hollyhocks come into bloom, in the second year, every single flower which does not exhibit some desir- able character of habit or colour should be thrown away before they begin to ripen seed ; the majority will be in this category. Those selected for further experiment should be cut down to within 3 inches of the ground, the earth round them stirred with a fork, to loosen the soil and let in the air, having previously named or numbered them in your book, and described the qualities for which they were selected. Propagation by Cuttings. — As soon as the first flowers of an old plant open suffi- ciently to judge of the flowering, the superfluous side branches having no flower buds may be taken off, with two or three joints and leaves. Cut the shoot through with a clean cut, just under the lower joint, leaving the leaf entire ; cut it also at about 2 inches above the joint — either joint will do, provided they have growing eyes, with a leaf and piece of ripened wood to support the bud until roots are formed. These cuttings, planted in a light sandy soil, placed under a hand-glass, and watered occasionally, and shaded from the sun, will require little further care except keeping clear of weeds and dead leaves. When rooted, pot them off in 6o-sized pots, and put them in a cold frame where they can remain during the winter. In spring, plant them out in the open ground where they are to flower, the colours being arranged so as to harmonise with other parts of the garden, taking care to furnish the roots with the proper soil. HORSE-CHESTNUT. 2,6 HOTBED. Utilisation of Old Plants. — The old plants in autumn furnish another source for new plants. When the flowers are be- coming shabby, cut the plants down, and, beginning at the bottom joints, con- tinue to make cuttings, as described above, until the fibre gets too soft for the purpose —each joint having eyes will furnish plant ; these struck under a hand-glass, on a very slight hotbed, will grow vigorously, the soil being gritty sand, loam, and leaf mould, in equal proportions, watering cautiously, but sprinkling the cuttings slightly every day in fine weather. Horse - Chestnut and Chief Varieties. Under the generic name, sEscu/us, the horse chestnut, we find not only sEsculus hippocastanea, the common horse chestnut, but AL. h. flore plena, a double-blossomed variety, ^E. rubicunda, with its scarlet blossoms, and one or two others. Horseradish. This much-relished accompaniment to roast beef, should be grown on an open spot It is a mistake to suppose this crop can be stowed away in any corner or out-of-the-way place; it requires high culture to produce it good, and it repays good treatment as well as any crop. The best mode of culture is to trench the ground to the depth of 3 feet, but to be rather sparing of manure, as this produces a tendency to fork ; the ground should be well broken any time during the winter. Then take up some old roots and trim them for the kitchen, cutting off the crowns about an inch and a half long — these latter are for planting. Next, with a dibble, which is marked 2 feet from 'the lower end — that being the depth the crowns are to be planted — make holes 2 feet apart in rows 3 feet apart. This done, take a lath -stick split at one end, insert the crown in the slit, thrust it down to the bottom ol the hole, and push it out by another stick which is thrust down for the purpose. It is unnecessary to fill up the holes, as they gradually fill as the horseradish nears the HORSERADISH. surface. If a fresh row is planted every year, and another taken up, the crop will be kept in good condition, and a fresh piece of improved ground offered every year for other crops. Hotbed. The garden frame, when used for forcing and as a means of raising the temperature in the space surrounded and covered by it, takes the same place as the upper plant chamber in the propagator, DUt the bottom heat is supplied by different means. It can be supplied by hot water, tis true, but when this is done the frame assumes the form of a pit with sides of Drick, similar to a melon pit. The garden rame, being movable, may be used in any convenient part of the garden, and the icating material, which must be brought to the spot, consists of dung from the stable- HOTBEL>, HOW TO MAKE. 257 HOTBED, HOW TO MAKE. yard or farmyard, or leaves or bark from the tanyard in a state of fermentation ; thus we arrive at a different means of imparting heat, which may be regarded as a natural means, and differing in this marked respect from the application of bottom heat by the agency of combustion, which, after all, is a purely artificial system. Hotbed, How to make. There is no fixed rule as to the best time for making hotbeds: they may be made, indeed, at any time of year, and for any purpose for which they may be required. For example, if it is desired to have cucumbers at Christmas, tke bed must be made early in October ; if in January, early in November ; and so on in proportion, little less than three months being required from the time of planting to the time of ripening fruit at this time of the year. It is immaterial what time of the year is chosen to commence cucumber growing, the only difference being that in the spring and summer months the task is comparatively easy, requiring less labour and less material than in the winter. In the colder months the weather has to be battled with ; in the warmer months the weather in a great measure assists. Sup- posing it is desired to commence in October, let a quantity of stable dung be got together, proportioned to the size of the frame : two double loads for a three- light frame are usually allowed for the body of the beds ; but it is as well to add an additional load, in which to start the plants. Having shaken it all together, laid it out for a week, and then turned it over again, take rather less than one load and make a bed for a one-light frame. This may be put together roughly, as it is merely to raise the plants in, and may be pulled to pieces when that is accomplished. The remainder of the dung should be turned over four or five times during a I fortnight, and wetted, if dry. This pre- paration is most important ; the inex- ' perienced operator, unless he would run the risk of destroying his plants at the beginning, should follow it to the letter ; for, unless the material has been well worked before the bed is made, it is apt to heat too violently, and burn the roots of the plants. In order to avoid this, it is ad- visable to use an equal quantity of leaves mixed with stable dung for the bed ; the leaves give a sweeter and more moderate, as well as more lasting heat. When the material is ready, measure the frame, length and breadth, and mark out the bed, allowing I foot or 18 inches more each way for the bed than the length and breadth of the frame. At each corner of the bed drive a stake firmly into the ground, and perfectly upright, to serve as a guide to build the bed by. Then pro- ceed to build up the bed, shaking up the dung well, and beating it down with a fork. The whole should be equally firm and compact, so that it is not likely to settle more in one part than in another, the surface being quite level. The frame and lights may now be placed in the centre, but the lights left off, so that the rank steam which always rises from a newly made hotbed may escape. Putting on Soil.— When the bed is made, the frame and lights put on, and j the rank steam passed off, which generally takes five or six days, let a barrowful of good loamy soil be placed under each light ; by the next day this will be warmed to the temperature of the hotbed, and the plants may be planted in it ; no matter how small the plants are, it is better than raising them in the bed ia which they are to grow, the shift itself being beneficial, and the time saved being rather more than a fortnight. • »> ,'V;^ Making Seedbed. — When the dung has lain the first week, the.seedbed is made. In HOTBED, RIGHTS OF. 258 HOTBED, MODE OF MAKING. three days the rank steam has passed off. A few pots with soil are then put in the frames. The next day the seed may be sown in these, two in each pot ; in three days the plants will be up. They need not be re-potted or disturbed, but grown as they are ; and, when the principal bed is ready, turned out of the pots with a ball of earth, and sunk in the new soil an inch or so over the ball of earth. If the bed now gives a moderate heat of 75° to 80°, and a sweet steam pervades the inside of the frame, the plants will soon root into the new soil, and grow very fast. Care must be taken, however, that the humidity is not too great, or that, in allowing some of ;•£ to escape, cold winds are not allowed to enter ; an excellent preventive being to stretch a piece of fine netting or gauze over the opening. Why Manure is Turned, &>c. — The formation of a hotbed as described above for cucumbers is precisely the same for whatever purpose it may be desired. Technically speaking, the heat engendered in the dung when taken fresh from the stable yard for the purpose of making a hotbed is termed "sweating," and it is to get rid of this too powerful heat that the manure is frequently turned over and watered before the bed is made. When leaves are added, it is thought better to do so at the last turning but one, when the bed is said to be " sweet " — that is to say, free from any rank and disagreeable smell. On the contrary, if a handful be drawn from the interior of a hotbed in a proper condition for covering with mould, the smell that it gives forth is agreeable rather than otherwise, and has been described as being like the smell of mushrooms. . Hotbed, Lights of, Covering for. In covering the lights of a hotbed during frosts or rough winds, it is advisable to avoid letting the mats, or what not, hfinc. — Hyacinths in pots must psver su%r for the want of, nor have an excess of, water j they may have clear manure water alternately with clean, •<" • FOR HYACINTHS IN GLASSES. they are placed where the smell would not be offensive. If grown in the windows of living rooms, they should be placed on the table at night to guard against excessive cold, and also be moved out of the draught when the room is aired. Various ornamental supports are advertised for holding up the flowers in lieu of stakes. In pot cul- ture stakes are often un- necessary ; for glasses, how- ever, and sometimes for hyacinths in pots when the spikes of bloom are un- usually heary, some support is generally indispensable. The wire supports shown in the accompanying illus- SUPPORT tration are the neatest and most efficient that can be had for the purpose, and very much neater than any support that can be made in wood. Hyacinths in Sand. To insure an effective display when the hyacinth is grown in sand it is necessary to plant thickly. Push the bulbs into the dry sand, leaving only the top visible, and to fix the sand, the vessel should be immersed in a pail of water ; also, to prevent any subsequent displacement of the sand, and to secure for the plants a sufficient supply of moisture, this operation should be re- peated once a week, or oftener if required, a bath of two or three minutes' duration being sufficient ; and if the water used be tepid, it will be all the better, as it encourages the development of the flower. An occasional watering of tepid water over- head, through a fine rose, will free the plants from dust, and keep them healthy and vigorous. It should be said that cocoa fibre and charcoal mixed together is a much better medium than sand. HYACINTHS. 265 HYDRANGEA. Hyacinths in Water. In growing hyacinths in water it should be said that this is a method which is not recommended, because this mode of culture so exhausts the bulb that it becomes either useless for transfer to the borders, or takes so long in recovering itself that it is some years before it is in a condition to send up a decent flower spike. But if this course be determined on, with regard to the water supply, never use spring water if you can get clean rain water. Place the bulb on the glass, and let the water just touch its base ; for three or four weeks keep it in a dark, cool situation, but avoid a damp, close atmosphere. When the roots have grown 2 inches, remove the water half an inch from the base of the bulb. All disturbance of the roots should be avoided ; therefore never change the water while it remains sweet : as a purifier, place a piece of charcoal in the glass. Avoid a close, hot room, for the heat and closeness tends to induce long stems and small flower spikes. Choose an airy situation, and place the glass in the lightest and sunniest position, turning it once a day. Never allow dust to remain either on the bulb, leaves, or flower ; once a day, or oftener, remove it with a camel- hair brush and water. Carefully guard against changes of tem- perature, especially from heat to cold, and never remove the plants from a hot room to a cold one; and when the water is changed or the glasses filled up, the chill must always be taken off the water. Never use a support till the plant requires it. A preference is generally given to dark- coloured glasses over clear ones, on the supposition that the hyacinth grows better in them; but experience has shown that the hyacinth will do as well in the one as in the other ; therefore those who delight in watching the growth of the roots, as well as the development of the flower, should buy the clear glasses. Hydran'gea (nat. ord. Saxifra'geas). The common hydrangea — Hydrangea hortensis — is a Chinese shrub, half hardy, imported into England about the year 1790 by Sir Joseph Banks. It thrives besl WARNER'S PATENT AQUAJECT. in a rich soil, and requires plenty of water. When the plant has done flowering, its branches should be cut in. Blue hydrangeas are much admired. It is some peculiarity in soil and situation which produces this variety. Blue flowers may in general be procured by planting in a strong loam and watering freely with soapsuds, or, what is better, with a solution of alum or nitre. Propagation is effected by division of large well-established plants or by cuttings of HYDROPULTS. 266 HYDROPULTS. half ripened shoots, put in at any time when the branches are cut in after flowering under shelter. Eydropults and Hydronettes. These, as the names imply, are contri- vances for drawing into a pipe water con- tained in a pail or any similar receptacle, and driving it out with force to a consider- able distance. Like the syringe, the simplest and cheapest form of this appli- ance is made in zinc. There is a vertical pipe, like the tube of a syringe, which is placed in water; at the lower end is a valve through which the water is drawn into the pipe by the upward action of the piston, which in itself also resembles the piston and rod of the syringe. When the piston is pressed downward the valve at the bottom is closed, and the water is driven upward through a smaller tube at the side of the larger one, terminating in a spreader, which is flat in form and bent slightly outwards, so that water may be thrown against any object towards which the spreader is directed, and to some height. They are made in different sizes, as are also the patent hydronettes, which throw a stream of water to distances varying from 30 to 60 feet, and are supplied in four sizes, namely, No. I, 20 inches long; No. 2, 24 inches; No. 3, 28 inches; and No. 4, 31 inches. Warner's Patent Aquaject, shown in the accompanying illustration, is a similar contrivance. Above a cast-iron stand, on which it is supported, rises an egg-shaped receptacle, upon which is a vertical tube, in which works a piston, surmounted by a horizontal D handle. A flexible pipe ol some length, through which water is drawn into the receptacle by the action of the piston, enters the upper part of this cavity ; and attached to the main pipe is another tube, also flexible, and terminating in a spreader, through which the water is ejected. B E R I S (nat. ord. Crucif'erae). The iberis is better known as candytuft, and will be found described under that name. Ice House. A large house in the country can hardly be said to be properly provided unless it has, somewhere in the grounds, an ice house. Ice is a very inexpensive luxury to those who live in the country, and who have the means of keeping it. The con- struction of an ice house is very simple, and the management of one extremely easy. On any dry spot of ground, under shade of ^ trees, on the slope of a hill, or where "Tis still the same where'er we tread, The wrecks of human pow'r we see ; The marvels of all a?es fled, Left to decay and thee ! And still let man his fabrics rear, August in beauty, grace and strength, Days pass— Thou, Ivy, never sere. And all is thine at last." MRS. HEMANS. drainage can be obtained, let a well be sunk of any convenient size. It is a mis- take to suppose that it need be very deep, for ice keeps best in a broad, solid mass, as we may prove by examination of any ice house, where we shall find that melting always begins next to the side walls. At the bottom of this well fagots should be laid to form a drainage, and upon these a bed of dry straw or reeds to receive the ice. From the bottom of the well, under the fagots, there should be a brick drain, trapped on the outside with a siphon, so that all water may be carried off and no air admitted. The walls of the well are best built hollow, and the top arched. The ice house should be provided with two doors — an inner one on the top of the well, 267 ICE PLANT. 268 IMPATIENS. and an outer one some few feet from it. The interval between these doors should l>e filled up with straw, and the entire outer covering of the whole building should be a mound of earth. This mound may be planted with St. John's wort, periwinkles, and other creepers, and in this way it will be rendered a pleasing object. It hardly comes within the design of this work to explain how ice may be best kept ; it may, however, be observed that the thinner the ice is the better ; for to keep well, it must be broken into small pieces and thoroughly rammed down, so as to form a solid mass. Ice Plant (not. ord. Hcoi'dea). Although commonly known as the " Ice Plant," from the ice-like excrescences with f ICE PLANT — MESEMBRIANTHEMUM CRYSTALLINUM. which its leaves are bespangled, its proper name is Mesembryanthemum Crystallmum. It is a useful and effective plant for rock- work, and the leaves and sprays are often utilised for garnishing. Preparation of Soil. — This plant will thrive in any fairly good garden soil, and in a dry and sunny situation, but if wanted for garnishing, as the leaves are ornamental in proportion to their size, the soil should be of the richest possible description ; and the few plants that will be necessary should be placed in a warm sheltered corner. Un- less the soil is in itself suitable, dig pits about 2 feet 6 inches apart, and fill them with very light rich compost, allowing about a barrowful to each couple of pits. Time and Manner of Sowing. — Sow the seeds in a pot filled with rich light soil early in April ; cover lightly, and place in a gentle heat.. As soon as the plants are strong enough, pot them in small pots and replace in the warmth. When the plants are well established, gradually harden them for planting out. Planting and After-management. — Plant ' out about the end of May, or as soon as the plants are strong and properly hardened, and all danger of frost is over. Keep them well supplied with water until the roots get hold of the soil. When once fairly estab- lished, they will only require to have the ground kept free from weeds, and the shoots pinched out, so as to prevent their being overcrowded. In hot, dry weather weak manure water may be given fre- quently with advantage. Ilex Aquifolium. See Holly. Immortelles. See Helichrysum. Impa'tiens (not. ord. Gerania'cea). Handsome border plants, called also Noli me tangeret from a curious property in the seed vessel, which springs open as soon as touched. The common balsam, or Impatient Balsamina^ is included in this genus (see Balsam), and under this name the general culture for plants of this class is described. /. flaccida is a fine species, with fine purple vinca-like flowers and broad leaves. Another fine plant of this genus is /. Sultani, with beautiful scarlet flowers, but this is a greenhouse plant, and requires much care in its culture and management. INARCHING, 269 INSECTS. All of these plants do best in rich loamy soil. Inarching. See Remarks on this under Grafting, Slit. Indian Azaleas. The Indian azaleas require more delicate treatment than their more hardy congeners, the Ghent azaleas. They live and grow in a low temperature, however, and are not materially injured by a few degrees of frost ; but while growing, a moist warmth and equable temperature are essential to their flowering properly. For culture and management, see Azalea. Indian Corn. A handsome-looking plant (also known as Zea or Maize), grown sometimes for its ornamental appearance. It is seldom that the corn cobs, with their rows of brownish- yellow grain, ripen in this country, except it be in the most southern parts of England. Preparation of Soil. — Select a warm sheltered situation, and trench deeply, adding a liberal dressing of well-rotted manure. Time and Manner of Sowing. — Sow in pots in April, or in the open ground in May, but, except in very favourable localities, the plants succeed best if raised under glass and planted out when the weather be- comes warm and settled. If raised in pots, be careful to keep the plants strong and stocky, hardening them by giving air freely on fine days. After-management. — When planted out, water freely till the roots have got hold of the fresh soil, and also in dry, hot weather. Keep the surface of the ground free from weeds, and in an open state by frequent hoeings. The ears, if cut when green and young, make a delicious vegetable. They should be cooked and served up as as paragus. Inoculating. This term in gardening is usually con- fined to a peculiar process of creating 2;rass lawns by distributing over the sur- ace of the ground small pieces of turf, rolling them in, and leaving them to take root and get together. The process, if properly carried out, is a very good one. The pieces of turf should be free from weeds and the surface made level to re- ceive them. Insects. As all insects are produced from eggs, and as a natural instinct enables the mother to place the eggs in a spot where they will not only be safe, but where the young grub will find food to support itself until its first transformation takes place, a knowledge of the habits of the more destructive species is absolutely necessary to the gardener ; the most effective remedy being to destroy the egg ; for the caterpillar or larva state is that most destructive to vegetation. In this state the name of caterpillar is applicable to ledidopterous insects or moths, and butterflies, and some of the Hymen optera, or bees. Grubs are the larvae of beetles, generally with three pair of feet, strong jaws and fat misshapen bodies ; maggots are the larvae of flies, moving along the ground by the muscular action of the rings of the body ; the larvae of bees and ants being also generally called maggots. When the larvae of these creatures have exhausted the food near which the provi- dent care of the mother has placed them, they are generally prepared for their second transformation — viz., the pupa or chrysalis state ; winding themselves in their cocoons, they bury themselves in the earth, or in some other obscure place, and emerge in a few hours in forms as various as were their larvae, the beetles with rudi- mentary feet, which are developed in INSECTS' EGGS. 270 INSECTS ON ROSES. their perfect state ; the butterflies naked, suspended by the tail, or attached to the branch of some tree or wall ; the moths enveloped in a bag or cocoon, which they have spun round themselves, as in a shroud ; the flies and two- winged insects, smooth oval substances, are fixed to the plants or trees which have supported the larvae. At length their last metamorphosis occurs : the caterpillar becomes a moth or butterfly, gaily painted in its garb of summer ; the grub becomes a beetle, with its diaphonous-coloured, hard, shining shell ; the maggots develop themselves in thousands of shapes, floating and humming in the air, — the two-winged insects, or Diptera. All the mischief, however, has been done, so far as the garden is concerned, and the gardener has only to look forward, as he ever must, to the next season. The insects humming and buzzing around him are short-lived : one object of their creation has been obtained ; they have performed, so far, their office of scavengers ; their next is to perpetuate their species ; and the object of the gardener must be to cir- cumvent them here, by destroying their eggs as they are deposited. Insects' Eggs, Dressing to Des- troy. An excellent dressing to destroy the eggs, &c., of insects that infest the bark of trees and old walls is made in the following manner.— Take ^ Ib. of tobacco, £ Ib. of sulphur, | peck of lime ; stir these ingre- dients well together in three or four gallons of water ; leave them to settle, and syringe the trees and walls well with the clear liquid. More water may be added when the first is used up. Insects on Roses. There are no class of flowers so much exposed to the depredations of insects as roses, and no remedy can be applied to their depredations without a precise know- ledge of their habits and different states of transition. The rose bedeguar or ex- crescence found very frequently on the wild rose, shown in the accompanying illustration, is the work of a gall-fly known as Rhodites ros J. virginiana, J. fragans, J. fhw ~iftr%^ are some of the best and tallest ; J, Chimnsis is a hand- some shrub, and so is J. Hibernica> th« Irish juniper. ALE. See Borecole and Cottager's Kale. Kal'mia (naf. ord. Erica'cese). This pretty, hardy, evergreen shrub, known also by the name of the American Laurel, is a native of North America, and should be treated as rhododendrons, &c., with bog earth or soil well mixed with peat. The plants should be placed in a moist situation. Kalmias are quite hardy. They may be propagated by seed sown in pans, in peat and sand, and placed in a cold frame, by layers, or by cuttings of young shoots, taken after the plants have bloomed, and set in peat and sand in a Kalmia's blooms are fair to see, Prankt in ruddy livery, Embowered in glossy greenery In clustered bosses, brilliant, round and broad. In habit aye compact and neat, And though bereft of odour sweet, For shelt'ring greenhouse full as meet, As for the bed enclaspt in verdant sward. ANON. shady position under a handglass. With care the plants thus obtained may be transplanted at almost any season. There are five or six species, but the best known is Kalmia latifolia, also called the Calico Bush, with rose-coloured and white flowers. Kalosanthes (nat. ord. Crassula'cese). A plant allied to the house-leek, bearing a flower like the common white jessamine — white at first, but assuming a reddish tint as the flower fades. The plant under consideration is properly called Crassula jasminea, or the jasmime-flowered Cras- sula, but it is also known as Rochea jasminea and Kalosanthes jasminea. The reason is to be found in the fact that the 277 KAULFUSSIA. 278 KITCHEN GARDEN. Kalosanthes was first transferred to the genus Rochea, which afterwards became merged in that of Crassula. It flowers in April and May. It is propagated by cuttings, which, like the Echeveria, should be laid aside for two or three days before KAULFUSSIA AMELLOIDES. planting, in order to dry, in which state they are better capable of sending out rootlets. They should be struck in a mixture of brick rubbish and sandy loam, in which well-established plants should also be grown. Kaulfus'sia (»«/. ord. compos 'itse). This little free-flowering annual, of good compact growth, are, when well grown, exceedingly effective in beds or mixed borders. They grow freely in any good garden soil, but seed should not be sown earlier than the third week in April. The proper name of this annual is Charilis heterophylla, but it is also known as Kaulfussia amelloides. It bears a flower with blue petals on florets set round a disc, which is either blue or yellow. The Kaulfussia, properly so called, is a curious stool fern, with large fronds resembling chestnut leaves in shape. Kenne'dya (not. ord. Legumino'sse). There are many species of this beautiful plant, and all of them natives of Australia. In habit they ire climbers, or trailers, and in our climate must be grown under glass. They require a sandy loam or peat, and admit of easy propagation by cuttings taken in spring or summer, and set in peaty soil in a close, warm frame, or by seeds sown at the same time. The plants bear flowers red or nearly black in colour. They should be freely watered in spring and summer. Kidney Bean. See Bean, French, or Kidney. Kerria (nat. ord. Rosa'cese). A hardy deciduous shrub throwing up long and slender branches, sending out short twigs furnished with pretty light green serrated lanceolale leaves, and bearing orange-yellow flowers of a ball-like form. Kerria japonica is the only species culti- vated in gardens, and this is generally called Corchorus japonica. It is easily propagated by cuttings, layers, or divisions of the plants. It grows from 3 to 4 feet in height, but in the extreme southern parts of England it will attain a height of 6 feet. Kitchen Garden. Form. — No better form can be devised for a kitchen garden than a square, sub- FIG. I. — SQUARE KITCHEN GARDEN. divided by two centre walks, as in Fig. I, or a long parallelogram, as Fig. 2. Some- KITCHEN GARDEN. 279 KITCHEN GARDEN. thing like Fig. 3 has also been recom- ( which line the inner side of the walk, mended by Mr. Loudon and others, and \ These borders have also a good effect laid the rounded part would make a beautiful j on in round ridges. fruit garden. This figure might also be j Sloping Banks or Ridges. — In level rounded at both ends. The centre walk ; kitchen gardens it is often desirable to should pass through close at each end. throw up sloping banks or zigzag ridges lor early and late crops. The south front of such banks, especially if a thatched hurdle or some other check to the wind is FIG. 2. — OBLONG KITCHEN GARDEN. a represents the wall ; b, fruit-tree border, 10 feet wide ; c, walk, 6 feet wide ; and dt border for dwarf trees or bushes, or the culture of strawberries, &c.. 6 feet wide. Borders. — Whatever shape is adopted, borders should always be introduced on each side of the main walks. Nothing tends more to relieve the heavy appear- ance of large masses of vegetables, and • to confer an air of elegance to a kitchen garden, than such borders. They should be separated froai the main vegetable compartments by small walks, from 18 inches to 2 feet wide. These walks can be edged with pebbles, and have a sprink- ling of gravel, or simply cut off as alleys, and be left solid earth, at pleasure. If they are formed of some hard substance, all the wheeling can be performed on them instead of on the main walk. Inclination or Slope. — Perhaps the nearer to a level a kitchen garden can be formed, the better. A slight inclination to the south-east, south, or west, might be an advantage ; on no account should it incline to the north. Where a kitchen garden is nearly level, it may often be desirable to give fruit-tree borders a con- siderable inclination, to get the benefit of the sun's rays and insure thorough drainage. Borders against the wall may be sloped in directions opposite to those placed on the top, is equal to a south border ; and the north side is equally useful for late strawberries, salading in hot weather, &c. Such banks are also most useful for training peas, &c., on table-trestles, within i foot or 18 inches of the surface. Some of the borders at the side of the walk might also be occupied by iron wire for training trees or espaliers, table-trestles, £c. One should be devoted to raspberries, planted 3 feet from the walks, and trained to a handrail FIG. 3. — KITCHEN GAKDEN ROUNDED AT ONE END. at the side of the walk, from 3 to 4 feet high. The advantages of this system, on the ground of beauty, doing justice to the young wood, and the facility and pleasure of gathering, must be at once apparent, Soil and size.— The size of the kitclien KITCHEN GARDEN. 2$0 KITCHEN GARDEN. garden must depend upon the demands upon it, and the mode of culture adopted. It is bad policy to have it too large. It should be kept in the highest state of cultivation, and its productive powers stimulated to the utmost by liberal dress- ings of manure. The soil should be trenched at least 4 feet deep, and drained a foot deeper. All the coarse vegetables, such as Jerusalem and globe artichokes, horseradish, rhubarb, &c., should be grown outside the walls, if possible, in a slip by themselves. Herbs should have a border devoted to them, and be grown in beds 3 feet wide. Thus cultivated, the back garden becomes a source of interest and an object of beauty, and they are easily accessible. All that has been here advised is as applicable to a plot a few yards square as to a nobleman's garden of ten or twenty acres. There is no reason why the kitchen garden should not bear the impress of order, design, and high keeping, as much as any other part of the grounds, or why this should in any way interfere with securing the largest amount of produce of the best quality from a given space, which should be the leading object in this department. In disposing of the main body of the garden, if the form be such as will admit of doing so, as shown in Fig. 3, divide it into four equal compartments, by means of cross-walks, 3 or 4 feet wide, as already recommended. If it be desired to have standard fruit-trees, plant a row through the centre of each quarter from north to south, and no more, for it should be remembered that the more trees there are, the less and poorer will be the crops, both of fruit and vegetables. As regards gooseberries, black, red, and white currants and raspberries, it is far better to plant one of the quarters with these instead of resort- ing to the very common practice of border- ing the quarters with them. 1 his is done on a false notion of economy, while, in fact, it is a great waste; it is also done with the view of being ornamental — it is in reality the contrary ; and it involves the loss of these bushes as renewers and pre- parers of the soil for ordinary kitchen crops in connection with a system of rotation of crops which will keep the ground in good heart without any intermission of the pro- duce. The converse of this may often be seen in old kitchen gardens which do not return the worth of the seed sown in them, where the soil is swarming with grubs, maggots, and mildew ; where cabbages club and rot, tap roots canker, and potatoes produce no tubers ; — and why? Because the soil, which has been for many years overtasked, cropped highly, and injudici- ously manured, whereas a proper system of rotation cropping would have kept the ground in good heart. See Cottage Garden, Rotation of Crops in, a 'id Sequence of Crops. There are certain permanent crops, both of vegetables and fruit-trees, which will occupy the gardener in the autumn months. To begin with the borders : In preparing them dig out the soil to the depth of 4 feet, and in the bottom of the trench thus formed place first about a foot in thickness of brick rubbish, or any coarse stuff, which, when rammed down hard, will prevent the wall trees from forming tap roots. If the soil in the kitchen garden is natu- rally good loam, no more is required than to mix a quantity of well -rotted dung with it before throwing it back into the trench, making the borders slope gradually towards the paths. If the soil requires improving, get a quantity of friable loam, mix rotten dung with it in the proportion of one part dung to three parts loam, and mix this again with the soil of the border where the trees are to stand. Plant the border with healthy young trees — peach, nectarine, and apricot, and, if desirable, with grape vines and figs : these ought to be placed 12 or 15 KITCHEN -GARDEN SEEDS. 281 KITCHEN-GARDEN SEEDS. feet apart. The following is a very con- venient plan of growing grapes on a wall between the peaches. The latter were placed 15 feet apart, and a vine planted in each space half-way between ; the vine was carried in a single stem to the top of the wall, where it divided into two stems, which were trained right and left under the coping ; and as they were pruned on the spur system, they took up little room, and did not interfere with the other trees. On the east and west walls plant trained trees — plums, cherries, pears, and mulberries — after the same rule, but without the same precaution as to soil, as these are not so particular. In draining the kitchen garden, one of the drains ought to run the whole length of the south border; for where peaches, nectarines, and especially apricots, are to be cultivated, the ground should be thoroughly drained. Kitchen-Garden Seeds. In most large kitchen -gardens seeds of all the different vegetables in use are saved from year to year. This practice is recom- mended not only by economy, but by every consideration of good management ; for, in this way, sorts that have been found to suit the soil and situation are effectually pre- served. To save seeds, however, is a work of some trouble. It causes a great waste of ground, exhaustion of soil, and also involves much labour. Moreover, in a thickly wooded country, the birds are generally so troublesome, that, if they do not prevent the saving of seeds, they add much to the expense of it. Wherever, therefore, ground is limited, birds trouble- some, and there are no spare hands, we should be inclined to give up the practice, or, at least, to limit the saving of seeds to a few favourite sorts. But whether seeds are saved or bought, great care must be taken in storing them. They should be kept until wanted for use in some dry, airy situation. It is not well to commit seeds to boxes and drawers ; the safest plan is to hang them up in small paper or muslin bags. Peas and beans, which are subject to maggots, should be looked over occasionally and kept clean. Seeds of some sorts of vegetables will keep good for years ; but, of course.it is best to use new seeds ; and there is always a saving of time in so doing, for old seed, when good, does not germi- nate as quickly as new. Good seeds can now be purchased at a very reasonable rate, and novelties in every kind of vege- table are continually being introduced. Most seedsmen publish lists of seeds with prices, suitable in quantity to gardens of all sizes, and as the demand for seeds is an annual one, no man of character will ven- ture to hazard his reputation and his interest by sending out bad seed. It is very easy to test the growing qualities of seeds, and this is always done by our lead- ing seedsmen before they are packed up and offered for sale. The collections of kitchen-garden seeds offered and supplied are so varied in sorts, and so moderate in price, that the generality of gardeners may well be spared the trouble of saving seeds, and use their land for crops that will prove more useful to the grower. The following is an enumeration of the seeds necessary for a year's supply, with quantities and prices to suit gardens of five different sizes, but with reference to them it may be said that it is not in strict accor- dance with economy in gardening to adopt any one or the other of them implicitly, and the buyer will but too often find among them many packets that the small grower does not absolutely require, and which in all probability he would not use. It is best to make one's own selection from the price lists, altogether omitting the firassica, plants of which can always be bought for 6d. per 100. KITCHEN-GARDEN SEEDS. 282 KNIVES USED IN GARDENING. NAME. ^33° Collection. £2 20 Collection. £i ii. 6 Collection. £T i o Collection. £o 10 6 Collection. Peas, best varieties for succession .. Beans, broad, the best sorts French, dwarf varieties 1 8 quarts 6 quarts 2 pints ii quarts 4 quarts i£ pints 8 quarts 3 quarts i pint 6 quarts 2 quarts i pint 4 pints 2 pints i£ pints Beet, Dell's and other sorts Borecole or Kale, best sorts 2 packets 4 packets 2 packets 3 packets i packet 3 packets i packet 2 packets i packet i packet Broccoli, best early and late sorts Brussels Sprouts, finest 8 packets i packet 6 packets i packet 5 packets i packet 4 packets i packet 2 packets i packet Cabbage, best sorts for succession 7 packets 6 packets 5 packets 4 packets 2 packets Capsicum i packet i packet i packet i pac i pac Carrot, for forcing and general crop Cauliflower, best for succession 14 ounces 2 packets 2 packets 8 ounces 2 packets 4 ounces i packet 3 ounces i packet ij ounces Couve Tronchuda i packet i packet i packet i packet Corn Salad i packet Cress, plain, curled &c. \ \ pint and ) 8 ounces 6 ounces 4 ounces 2 ounces Cucumbers, of sorts 6 ounces j 4 packets 3 packets 2 packets i packet 3 packets Herbs of sorts 6 packets 4 packets 3 packets 2 packets 2 packets Lettuce, best Cos and Cabbage 6 packets 4 packets 3 packets 3 packets 2 packets Mustard white .. i quart i pint i pint 4 ounces 2 ounces Onion, White Spanish and others... Orach . 12 ounces i packet 8 ounces i packet 6 ounces i packet 3 ounces ij ounces Parsley, garnishing, &c 2 ounces i ounce i packet i packet i packet i ounce i packet Radish, best sorts for succession j Rampion i pint and ) ii ounces j i packet 9 ounces i packet 6 ounces i packet 4 ounces 2 ounces i packet i packet Scorzonera i packet i packet i packet Spinach, summer and winter sorts Tomato 2 pints i packet i^ pints i packet i pint i packet 4 ounces 2 ounces Turnip, Snowball and others Vegetable Marrow 12 ounces 2 packets 5 ounces i packet 8 ounces i packet 3 ounces i packet 2 packets i packet By some seedsmen these seeds are classified in six sections, as follows : — i. Leguminous Section ; 2. Edible Leaved and Edible flowered Section ; 3. Edible Rooted Section ; 4. Edible Fruited Section ; 5. Salad Section ; and 6. Pot, Sweet and Garnishing Herb Section. The number prefixed to each kind of seed in the first column indicates the section to which it belongs. It may be added that all the leading seedsmen supply larger collections than those indicated above, at prices ranging from four guineas upwards, according to quantity. Knives Used in Gardening. Knife, Asparagus. — Where asparagus is largely grown a special kind of knife is desirable for cutting it. If an old kitchen knife is used for the purpose, the back should be blunted and the point brought in a long and gradual curve from the edge in front to the blunt back. When thrust against the root, the cut is delivered from- extreme point to the front edge by down- ward pressure, and injury to any other shoot in the vicinity of that which is cut is guarded against. Asparagus knives, speci- ally prepared for the purpose, are either chisel-shaped — that is to say, with a blade blunt on both sides and sharp at the edge only, which is straight across the end of the blade like that of a chisel— or slightly curved, and made like a saw along the inner or cutting edge, although the teeth are sharp. With the chisel knife the cut is made downwards ; with the saw knife the cut is made upwards, the instrument being thrust into the ground by the side of the shoot to be severed. The asparagus knife costs about is. 3d. KNIVES USED IN GARDENING. 283 KNIVES USED IN GARDENING. Knife, Budding. — In the operation of budding, the bud has to be prepared for insertion, and the necessary incision made in the stock and the bark raised for its re- ception, and therefore the form of the blade must be adapted for these purposes, and the form of the handle as well. The shapes in which budding knives are usually made are shown in Fig. I. Strength is not re- quired in them, they therefore are altogether smaller in size than pruning knives ; but although the blades are small, they must be very keen and adapted for making a clean incision as well as for making a clean cut. For this purpose the blades of both the knives that are figured in the illustration are well adapted ; but perhaps the form of the smaller one is preferable. The handle is of bone or ivory in every case, these materials being of a smooth surface, and capable of being reduced to a thin spatula-shaped termination, suitable for lifting the bark on either side of the incision for the insertion of the bud. A heart-shaped termination, such as is found in the knife known as Goodsall's Budding Knife, is perhaps the most convenient for accomplishing the purpose for which it is specially required. Budding knives cost from 33. to 43. 6d. Knife, Garden. — This is a knife for all ordinary purposes which should be carried by every gardener. It may be had with or without a joint, as preferred j but one with FIG. I. — BUDDING KNIVES. a broad and strong curved blade, set in a buckhorn handle with a slight curvature in the opposite direction, without a joint, and carried in a stout leather sheath, is prefer- able. This kind of knife is shown in Fig. 2. The handle, as will be noticed, is larger at the bottom than at the top, from which the blade issues. This enables the operator to hold the knife with a firmer grip, and to apply more force or power when cutting away a bough of some size from a shrub, &c., as he often must do. There is a flat plate at the bottom of the handle, which may be utilised for loosening old garden nails, or even for driving in a garden nail on an occasion when v no hammer is within reach, or it is not worth while to fetch one. Knife, Grafting. — This is similar in form to a pruning knife, and, indeed, pruning knives may be used for this purpose. Keenness of edge is indispensable, and when the bark has to be lifted, as is the case in some kinds of grafting, the handle should be made of some smooth material and with a wedge-like termina- tion, as in the case of the budding knife. Knife, Pruning. — This description of knife is shown in Fig. 3- FIG. 3. FIG. 2. It should be PRUNING GARDEN . . , , . . KNIFE. KNIFE. furnished with a buck- horn handle of the same form, or very nearly so, as that of the garden knife; but it should be made with a joint, so KNIVES USED IN GARDENING. 284 KOHL RABI. as to be closed when out of use, and it is not amiss if the spring at the back be so constructed as to prevent any chance of the knife closing when the operator is using it. The edge of the blade should be straight, or all- but straight, from haft to point. The blade, moreover, should be of the best steel, and kept scrupulously keen. It may be asked why one knife will not serve for all purposes. The reply lies in the fact that in pruning it is necessary to make a clean cut across the bough or branchlet that is severed from the tree, and that the bark should be cut all round as cleanly as the wood that it incloses, without leaving any shreds or stripping when the cut is made, which shows that the knife is blunt or not so sharp as it ought to be, or that the operator is unskil- ful in the use of his tool, or has not made the cut at the proper angle, which is an angle ranging from 30° to 45° to the axis of the branch that is cut. The greater the angle, the less the chance of making a clean cut and of leaving a little flap of bark at the upper end of it stripped from the portion that is cut away. It is undesirable to use a knife for which sharpness is indis- pensable for any other purpose than pruning, and hence an ordinary garden knife should be kept for rougher work. The blade of the pruning knife is not so large, broad, and heavy as that of the garden knife. Good garden knives and pruning knives may be bought at prices ranging from is. to 35. Knives > Hone for Sharpening. — As it is always desirable to have the means of put- ting an edge to a knife at any time and at any place, the gardener should carry in his pocket a "slip," as it is called, for this purpose, if his work be such that the knife is called into frequent use. A piece of good Turkey stone, to be procured from any ironmonger, is generally used ; but no one will do amiss in furnishing himself with one of the " Tarn O'Shanter Hones, prepared by Mr. John C. Montgomerie, Dalmore Hone Works, Stair, Ayrshire. This hone is accounted to be as good as, if not better than, any other for sharpening all kinds of edge tools. It needs no oil, and requires to be moistened with saliva only, or a little water, with which simple lubricant it puts on a keen, sharp edge. It can be had in small pieces, expressly cut for the pocket, when desired. Every hone or slip bears the name "Tarn O'Shanter," which is a mark of its genuineness. It is, or ought to be, sold by every ironmonger ; but any one who rinds a difficulty in getting it through the ordinary channel should write direct to the works. Kohl Rabi. A hardy vegetable partaking of the nature of the cabbage and turnip, having a bulbous-shaped stem like the latter, with broad leaves growing here and there from the top of the stem. It KOHL RABI. does not suffer from drought or frost, and when the ste-m is eaten young it is tender and palatable. The sorts best suited for garden use are the Early White Vienna and Early Purple Vienna, so named from the colour of the skin of the stem. Sow seed at any time from April to June. If in permanent quarters sow in drills 15 inches apart, and thin out to 12 inches KOLKEUTERIA. 285 KOLREUTERIA. between the plants. If sown in seed-bed, transplant when young to the distances already named, and water occasionally until the plants show signs of growth. Kolreute'ria (nat. ord. Sapinda'cese). A handsome, hardy, flowering tree, with graceful acacia- like foliage, requiring a rather sheltered situation to produce its flowers freely and in perfection. It thiives in any common garden soil, and is propa- gated by cuttings and layers — the former made and planted in spring, and the latter laid down in autumn. The only species known is Kolreuteria panicu.'ata, with yellow flowers disposed in large panicles. It attains a height of from 10 to 15 feet. HI APOCMklW. I like the Leeke above all herbes and flowers. When first \ve wore the same the field was ours. The Leeke is white and greene, where bye is meant That Britaines are both stout and eminent. Next to the Lion and the Unicorn, The Leeke the fairest emblem that is worne. ' HARLEIAN MS. ABELS. Labels for plants are made in various ways and of various materials. Labels for suspension to the plant itself, or for attachment to a stick to be placed close to the plant, may be made of metal, deal, earthenware, horn, bone, ivory, and even leather, and attached to trees and plants capable of bearing them, or to the wall or supports on which the trees are trained. A convenient size for such labels is 3 inches long and I inch broad. When made of any of the materials specified these labels are distinguished as permanent labels, in contradistinction to temporary labels, which are made of cardboard, or coarse linen, with a face that can be written on, and having a brass eyelet hole, through which a piece of string or raffia may be passed for attachment to the plant. These temporary labels are soon destroyed l«y exposure to the weather, and therefore are suitable only for attachment to plants during transit from the grower to the buyer. A temporary label of more than usual strength and endurance is manufac- tured by Cooper, Dennison & Walkden, Ltd., St. Bride Street. In addition to these there are labels made of zinc, and used, according to their make, either for 286 LABELS. 287 LABELS. placing in the ground or in pots, or for attaching to the branches of trees, sticks, espaliers, rafters, &c. These are made of different shapes, and some of different sizes of the same shape. The outlines of some of them are given in the accompany- ing illustration, but other patterns are to be procured of all nurserymen by whom they are sold. The label shown at A is 4! inches long and 3^ inches broad, and is used for pots and borders by sticking the narrow part in the ground, or it may be reversed 2f inches by i^ inch ; G, 2f inches by 7^ inches ; H, I £ inch by i£ inch. The labels K and L resemble name or number sticks in shape : K is made in different sizes, namely, 9 inches by i^ inches for nursery use, and 6 inches by I inch, and 5 inches by i inch for pots and borders ; L is 4^ inches by f inch, and is intended for use in pots of small or medium size. At M is shown a border standard or rafter and wall pin in galvanised iron. It has a head like the handle of a fiddle-pattern spoon, and t ZINC GARDEN LABELS. and hung on the edge of pots and shallow pans by bending the narrow part into the shape of a hook. The forms u and c, which measure respectively 4 inches by 2^ inches and 4 inches by 3 inches, are intended for the same purposes, and are used in exactly the same manner, as A. The forms marked D, E, F, G, H, are per- forated at the top with holes, and are used for suspension to trees, plants, &c., by wire, or for nailing to rafters, sticks, &c. Their dimensions are as follows :— D, 3! inches by 2j inches ; E, 2| inches by 2 inches ; F, pierced with holes to allow of the attach- ment of a zinc label by means of wire These standards are made in any length, from 4 inches upwards. The following are the prices per 100 at which these articles are supplied :— A, 33. 6d. ; B, 2s. 6d. ; c, 2s. 9d. ; D, 2s. Qd. ; E, is. 9d. ; F, is. 8d.; G, is. 8d. ; H, is. 2d. ; K, is. 9d. ; and L, is. 8d. Yeats's Indelible Ink, an ink ex- pressly prepared for writing on zinc labels, is supplied at 6d. per bottle. Metal labels possess an advantage over wood labels in being very more durable, and therefore LADDERS. 288 LANTANA. cheaper in the long run. See also Wooden Tallies. Ladders. The garden ladder should be light and portable, and that the utmost lightness as well as a maximum of strength may be attained, it is desirable that the sides should consist of the best red deal or pine sawn and planed, connected with oak rungs or staves, and having three rungs in the form of iron bolts with nuts, as shown in the accompanying illustration. 1KO>- RUNG OF GARDEN LADDER. These iron rungs should be placed one in the centre and one at each end, so as to form the end rungs but one in each case, the end rungs being of oak. The iron bars, as may be seen, are made with a shoulder at each end, against which the sides of the ladder are butted, and the ends are screw-threaded to carry nuts. When the bars, both of wood and iron, are all placed in position the nuts are screwed up, and the ends of the oak staves are cut off close to the outer surface of each side of the ladder, and split and wedged up. The object in view in making a ladder in this manner is to produce a perfectly rigid framework of the greatest possible strength compatible with the dimensions of the sides, the length of the ladder, and the lightness necessary to ensure portability. The sides of the ladder, at least, should be painted, and the bars, both of iron and wood, may be treated in the same manner. From 10 to 15 feet will be found a con- venient length for an ordinary ladder, although in the case of large fruit-trees covering the end of a house or building, one of even greater length will be, neces- sary. It is desirable to have two or three ladders of various lengths, from 6 or 8 feet upwards, for short ladders will often be found useful in dealing with fruit-trees and climbers on walls of moderate height, and they are always more convenient than steps, and can be lodged against a wall with less chance of injury to trees, &c. Lanta'na (nat. ord. Verbena1 ceae). Although some of the Lantanas, as, for example, Lanlana Camara, range from 6 feet to 10 feet in height, yet they may be described as a genus of dwarf bushy shrubs, half-hardy perennials, from 12 inches to 18 inches in height, thickly studded with pretty miniature verbena-like blossoms of varied colours and changing hues — from j snow-white with primrose centres to deli- cate pink and rose with white discs, and from bright rose-lilac to orange and scarlet with creamy centres. For the conservatory and flower garden they are alike valuable. Seeds sown in March make fine summer and autumn blooming plants. They suc- ceed best in dry, warm situations, and in light rich soil. They are also propagated by cuttings taken about the end of August, and set in small pots in' good loam, lightened by old and well-rotted manure LAPAGEK1A. 289 LAVANDULA. rrom a spern hctl/ed. These must be kept in a cool house dv.ring the winter, and will make nice plants in the spring. There are many named varieties, which may be pro- cured from nurserymen. (nat. ord. Lilia'ceae). A beautiful greenhouse climber, pro- ducing pretty bell-like flowers, either white or rose-coloured. They require a rich, light soil, plentifully mixed with sand and peat. They are propagated by seeds sown, as soon as ripe, in gentle heat, or by layers, which is the best mode of obtaining strong, quick -growing plants. The pots in which they are grown must be well drained. They are subject to attacks of green fly in spring, and require care and watchful attention in this respect. The best-known species are Lapageria rosea and L. r. alba, which pre- sent a beautiful appearance when trained over a greenhouse wall. Larch, or Larix. See Pinetum. Larkspur (nat. ord. Ranuncula'ceae). Yhe Larkspur, or Delphiniums, form a , the conser- vatory; c, a clump of trees and shrubs fronting the main entrance ; D, coach house and stables ; E, tool house ; F, manure and frame yard ; G, flower borders and shrub- beries ; H, ferns and American plants ; I, rose clumps ; J, circular beds for hollyhocks, dahlias, and other free-blooming plants in summer, and thinly planted with evergreens to take off the nakedness in winter; K, arbour ; L, flower beds ; M, lawn ; N, paths ; O, beds for placing out flowers in pots ; P, kitchen gardens ; Q, peach wall ; ^, west wall for plums, cherries, and pears. It is sometimes advantageous to have buildings and even groups of large trees contiguous to gardens : where these are situated to the north of the garden, they not only break and turn aside the cold winds, but concentrate the heat of the sun, a great advantage when early crops are required. They also preserve the crops during winter. Buildings have this advan- tage over trees, that they afford the shelter without robbing the soil of the food neces- sary for its legitimate crop. In the accom- panying plan it will be observed that the whole frontage north of the house is laid out as lawn, and to the south, that the breadth of the house and offices is disposed in the same way ; a single winding path running through it. South of the house lie the conservatory and offices, sheltered by a belt of shrubbery which runs round the whole lawn. The kitchen gardens occupy the north-west' side of the ground, and adjoining, at the western extremity, are vineries, forcing houses, and orchard houses. The eastern boundary is a dwarf wall with green iron railings. Leaf Mould. This is a substance complex in its nature, and its functions, except so far as its heating properties are concerned, are im- perfectly known. The substance of all plants and leaves yields by slow decom- position results of the highest importance to the cultivation of the soil ; and when exposed to a sufficient amount of heat, and under the full play of atmospheric air or oxygen, they burn, yielding water and car- ! bonic acid, leaving only a trifling amount of organic matter behind. Natural decay is just such a slow combustion of moist organic matter as is required ; it is decom- posed when freely exposed to the oxygen of the air by slow burning, and the result is that when the gaseous fumes evolved by decomposition are given off, a blackish- LEAF MOULD. 295 LEAF MOULD. looking mass remains, consisting of bodies of the humic acid series. When reduced to this state, they are, to all physical appear- ance, like dark -brown soil, or earth ; and it is to their presence that garden soils owe their peculiar colour. On ultimate analysis, these brownish bodies are found to consi-st of hurntCy ttlmic, and geic acids, neither of them soluble in water, but all soluble in alkalies', with which they have a strong affinity. Hence their tendency to unite in the ammonia, and their value as manures in connection with alkali. " Not only do they absorb such of this alkali as they come in contact with," says Dr. Scoffern, " but it is suspected that they actually, like many other porous bodies, promote the combination of oxygen and hydrogen, and form ammonia by catalytic agency — a term used by Berzelius to express the result of the contact of a third body upon two others, without being itself changed in its character — a beautiful pro- vision of Nature, by which the products of natural decomposition are endowed with the properties necessary to render them fit for assimilation as food for vegetables." From this it is clear how important it is that not a leaf should be suffered to run to waste, but should be swept up as they fall, and conveyed to a heap, taking care to keep them by themselves, and apart from other manures, until they are in a state fit for mixing into composts. The manner in which these influences operate is an interesting subject to the gardener. The fertilising properties of manure are in proportion to the nitrogen contained in it, this gas being absorbed by plants in combination with hydrogen in the form of ammonia, which is composed of fourteen parts of nitrogen and three parts of hydrogen by weight. When this is borne in mind, and the fact that the atmosphere is another source from which plants derive this substance, the great utility of trenching becomes evident, especially to those plants which easily give off their nitrogen to mix in the atmosphere rather than in the soil. Leguminous plants arc valuable in this respect, for it enables the cultivator to enrich the ground which has been ex- hausted by excessive cropping. That the atmosphere holds ammonia sufficient for the development of plants is due to the decomposition of organised bodies, which all contain a greater or less quantity of nitrogen; but it is particularly in the bodies of animals that this agent exists. It enters into the composition of all their organs, and when, after death, animals are left to the chemical action of nature, all the elements of which they were constituted are separated, and immediately form new, and for the greater part, gaseous com- pounds, and amongst them ammonia, which is dissolved in the atmosphere by the water with which the air is always charged. Another source of this agent has been traced to the electric discharges in a thunderstorm. Carbonate of ammonia, according to Boussingault and Liebig, pre- exists in ail organised beings. " The phenomenon of the constancy of thunder- storms," M. Boussingault says, "would seem to justify this opinion. It is said, indeed, that every time a series of electric flashes pass in the humid atmosphere, there is a production and combination of nitric acid and ammonia ; the nitrate of ammonia, besides, always accompanies the rain which falls in a thunderstorm ; but this acid being fixed in its nature, cannot be maintained in a state of vapour. When we consider the reaction which takes place between the different compounds in ques- tion, it may easily be conceived that the nitrate of ammonia, which is drawn to the earth by the rain, and which comes in con- tact with the rocks or calcareous soil, is afterwards volatilised to the state of car- LEDUM. 296 LEEKS, TRENCHING. bonate at the next drying of the soil. There can be no doubt at the present day, : that the carbonate of ammonia is the most active agent of vegetation, and without which all the others would be useless ; but this carbonate is gaseous, and for this reason cannot be employed directly by the cultivator, who, were he to try to create an atmosphere of the carbonate of ammonia under his ground, would spend a great deal of money without obtaining any benefit whatever, since the slightest movement of the air would instantly produce evaporation of this volatile manure." Ammonia, indeed, whether in the atmos- phere or the soil, is the great source of fertility ; but natural soils are themselves of much importance in plant cultivation. Rich black mould often contains 20 per cent of its own weight of organic matter, derived from the decomposition of animal and vegetable matter. In peat-earth, the proportions vary from 50 to 70 per cent. ; in good garden land, the average amount is 10 to 12 per cent., and sometimes even twice as much in soils that have for a long period been wefrcultivated ; and in average arable soils of the fields, it may be from 4 to 8 per cent. be recommended to those who are inte- rested in these plants. Leeks. Leeks, for the main crop, are usually- sown in April, about the same time as onions. Some gardeners sow them with a small sowing of onions, the latter being drawn young for salading, and the leeks being left 4on the bed, or planted out. Some sow them in drills 18 inches or even 2 feet apart, and thin them to a foot or so apart in the row, planting the thinnings at the same distance. This gives room to draw earth up to them for the purpose of (nat. ord. Erlca'cese). A genus of heath- like plants, extremely hardy, but requiring to be grown in pots \ or borders, well drained, in a compost of I light loam mixed with large proportions of peat, leaf-mould, and coarse sand or road grits. They are somewhat tenacious of transplanting, and the roots should be j disturbed as little as possible. They are propagated by seeds and layers, but the | work of propagation is somewhat difficult. I There are not many species, but perhaps j the best known are Ledum laiifolium and L. I. CanaJense, both with white flowers. L. I. globosum is a guod variety, and may LEEK.— LONDON FLAG. blanching the root and stem. Sow very shallow, tread, and rake, provided the ground admits of it : thin before the plants interfere with each other, and water in dry weather. This crop delights in a light rich soil, and in moist seasons grows very large. The London Flag is the sort most usually grown ; but the Scotch or Musselburgh is esteemed by many as growing larger. Leeks, Trenching. The method of growing leeks as des- cribed in the preceding article is a good one, but, after all, the better way to obtain leeks of considerable size and well blanched LEPTOSIPHON. 297 LETTUCE. is to grow them in trenches, in the same manner as celery ; but the trenches need not be more than 8 or 9 inches deep. The trenches should be well manured, but if no manure is added to the soil a substitute must be fcund for it in the shape of liquid manure. As the plants grow, the earth in the sides of the trench should be raked in so as to fill it and cover the plants as high as possible, thus blanching them. LeptO 'siphon (nat. onl. Polemo- nia'cese). A charming tribe of hardy annuals which should now be known under its proper LEPTOSII'HON HYBRIDUS. generic name of Cilia, although the seeds- men still keep to the old name in their price lists. L. densiflorus, with its pretty rose-lilac flowers, and L. densiflorns albtis, with its pure white blossoms, are exceed- ingly attractive in beds or ribbons. Z. hybridus, L. aureus, and L. Iflacinns make pretty low edgings, and are very suitable for rock-work ; they all make nice pot plants, and succeed in any light rich soil. Leptospermum (nat. wtf.Myrta'cese). A genus of half hardy greenhouse shrubs not very widely known and therefore not much cultivated. They mostly bear white flowers. They are propagated by seeds sown in gentle heat at the commencement of spring, or by cuttings of young shoots taken in May and struck in sand under a handglass. They require a compost of rich loam and peat with a little sand and charcoal. Lettuce. Lettuces are a surface crop, and light feeders ; consequently, by giving plenty of manure, we not only insure good lettuces, but prepare the ground for a grosser-feeding crop, sowing the seed broadcast, and tread- ing it in if on light soil. On wet ground, if apt to bind or clod, this is not to be recommended ; but mark the ground into one or more beds, 4 feet wide, with alleys 15 inches in width between. Standing in the alleys, sow the seed, and press it in with the rake, or cover with some light soil. Sowing for succession. — Where a succes- sion of lettuces is required throughout the year, it will be necessary to sow once a month till March ; after that once a fort- night, or every three weeks ; for although a crop may last a month in moist weather, they are soon over in the hot summer months, and it is as well to be provided with plenty of young plants for succession. After August, once a month will be often enough. Sow the seed thinly over a piece COS LETTUCE. of ground sufficient to grow a fortnight's supply ; when large enough to transplant, thin them out to a foot apart, and plant the thinnings a foot apart on a piece thu LETTUCE. 298 LEVELLING. same size ; those left in the bed come in first, and the others are ready to succeed them. In summer, sow on a larger space, and let them grow where sown. Blanching. — Cos lettuces require tying up to blanch and crisp them. To do this expeditiously, provide a bundle of bast matting, cut to the required length, sling it round the waist, and gathering each plant up, pass the hand rapidly round it. In this way a score or two may be tied in a few minutes. Varieties, — One of the most hardy sorts, and best for sowing at any time, is the Black-seeded Bath Cos; it is very crisp, and of good flavour. Another good sort is the Moor Park Cos, and also the Paris White Cos. Of the cabbage lettuces, one of the best, especially for winter use, is the Hardy Green Hammersmith ; but it is apt to run in summer and autumn. The Brown Dutch, Tennis-Ball, and Tom Thumb Cabbage lettuces are good varieties, and very hardy, the last named being excellent for spring sowing. The Malta, or Drum-Head Cabbage, is a fine large lettuce, and good for summer use, as it is not apt to run if allowed plenty of room. The Neapolitan Cabbage is also noteworthy for its great size and crispness. The advantage of cabbage lettuces is, that CABBAGE LETTUCE. they require no tying up, which prevents cos lettuces being serviceable in winter, as they so soon rot off when tied ; but such sorts as the London Cos, which turn in without tying, may be grown advan- tageously in winter. Many other sorts will be found named in the price lists of the principal seedsmen. Leucojum, or Snowflake (nat. ord. AmaryTlidese). These are very pretty hardy bulbs with white blossoms tipped with green, resem- bling those of the snowdrop, but much larger in size. Ltttcojuni (cstivuni, or Summer Snowflake, flowers in May, but L. ventm, the Spring Snowflake, which LEUCOJUM VERNUM, OK SPRING SNOWFLAKE. is the most valuable, blooms in March, but if forced will flower/ earlier. It is much prized for the sitting-room. The bulbs are perfectly hardy and will grow in any garden soil. They should be planted in the autumn in clumps about 3 inches deep. Levelling. For levelling extensive tracts of country for railways, canals, &c., a theodolite, which is a spirit level raised on three legs and furnished with a telescope, is the instrument employed ; but there is no necessity to do more than touch very briefly on the method that is adopted for levelling on a scale far larger than that which is involved in laying out garden ground. A quadrant is also frequently LEVELLING. 299 LEVELLING. used for the same purpose, and for deter- mining the level of drains, &c. The diagram exhibited in Fig. i. and the accompanying remarks are taken from Loudon's " Self- Instruction for Young Gardeners." "Suppose," he says, "it were required to run a level through the ground indi- cated, AB, from the point A. Provide a few staves proportioned in length to the work in hand, and let them have cross pieces to slide up and down ; then, having firmly fixed the staff, to which the quadrant is attached, in the ground, at the point A, set the instrument in such a position that the plumb line should hang exactly parallel 5 feet 6 inches down the second, 5 feet 9 inches down the third, &c., &c. The dotted line AD would then represent the line parallel to the bottom of the intended drain." Where elevations or mounds are to be thrown up, stakes should be inserted of the desired height, and a line stretched across their tops to show the conformation of the surface, as in Fig. 2. These stakes, in all garden operations, should range from 10 to 20 feet apart, 15 being a good average ; they are not only necessary for ascertaining the levels, but enable the men to perform their work with the utmost ease and certainty as to the result. In the or fttr 15 20 30 ^ FIG. I. — LEVELLING GROUND WITH QUADRANT. to the perpendicular limb of the quadrant ; the upper limb will then be horizontal. This done, direct the eye through the sights, and, at the same time, let an assistant adjust the slides on each staff so as exactly to range with the line of vision. Then suppose the height AC to be 5 feet down- wards from the upper side of the slide upon each staff, so shall the dotted line AB represent the level line required. Sup- pose the operation had been to determine a cut for a drain, to have a fall of 3 inches in every 20 feet, the distance between each staff in the above figure may be supposed to be 20 feet, then 5 feet 3 inches would have to be measured down the first staff, illustration of this method of producing the outline in section of an artificial mound or elevation by means of stakes and a cord, the stakes a to m are driven into the original surface, AB, which for convenience is supposed to be level, and the cord is hen stretched from top to top, as shown by the solid line abcdefghklm* The cord should be drawn as tight as possible, and notches for its reception should be cut in the tops of the stakes. The outline afforded by the cord is approximate only, and consists in a series of straight lines from top to top of adjacent stakes. The outline that the soil will take when placed in position is indicated by the dotted line LEVELLING. 300 LEVELLING. from a to w. The mode of procedure would be precisely the same if the surface AP were inclined or undulating. One of the chief things to be attended to in levelling is to retain all the best soil for the surface : this increases the labour and expense, but is of the iirst importance in of from 2 to 3 feet of good soil, fit foi cultural purposes. all Levelling, Simple Mode of. The following mode of determining the level of a line such as that which is in- tended for the edging of a walk is simple FIG. 2— OUTLINE OF ARTIFICIAL ELEVATION WITH STAKES AND CORD. all garden operations. However, if judg- ment is exercised in the performance of the work, the surface soil can generally be passed over to the new level without the intervention of carts or barrows. This will be obvious from the section shown in Fig. 3, in which AB is the desired level, c an open trench from which the worthless subsoil below the line AB has been removed, and D the section of the next ground to be levelled. Of course, the surface soil would be thrown from D into the trench c, up to the level of the line AB, the fresh soil thus transferred assuming the form indicated by ' and merits attention. It is taken from Thompson's " Gardener's Assistant." The writer says : " Prepare a lozenge- shaped piece of wood (as shown in the accompanying illustration), about 6 inches broad ; paint it white, with the exception of an inch all round the margin, which should be black ; also a strong black line across from angle to angle. A square hole cut on the upper side of the cross line admits of anything against which it is placed being marked exactly at the height of that line. If the length of the edging intended to be levelled do not exceed 600 FIG. 3— MODE OF REMOVING SUBSOIL AND RETAINING SURFACE SOIL IN LEVELLING. the dotted lines, being thrown^ against the \ soil already placed in position at A. The subsoil under D would then be carted or wheeled where it was wanted, forming a new trench at E, and the same process DC repeated throughout the entire section, as shown by the dotted lines indicating the successive trenches from A to B. The new «vel would then be furnished with a depth feet, let a rod be placed at each end, and the instrument (that is to say, a spirit level) half way between these. Lst an assistant hold the lozenge-shaped tnark against the rod at one extremity of the line, while the person at the instrument directs him to slide it up or down till the line across its centre coincides with the line of sight from the instrument when the bubble is in the LEVELLING, SIMPLE MODE OF. 301 LILIUM, OR LILY. middle of the spirit-tube. Mark the rod at the height of the cross line, and in the same way the rod at the other end of the walk. The two points so marked on the rods at each extremity are in the same horizontal line. " The instrument may now be removed, and a rod put in its place. By placing the cross line of the lozenge slide on one of the points to which the level was directed, and then viewing from the point at the other extremity, the rod placed in the middle can be marked at a point which will be in a horizontal line with the other two. There will then be three ascertained points on the same level ; and by viewing between any two, as many more may be marked along the line as may be found necessary. Thus, on the rods placed be- tween the two ex- tremities, a series of points may be mar- ked, all of which shall be in the same horizontal line. By LOZENGE-SHAPED BOARD measuring down a FOR LEVELLING. uniform distance from each of these points, the horizontal line which they marked may be transferred to the ground or to the height to which the edging is to be worked. If this height be determined at any place, then it is only necessary to measure down to it from the level point originally marked on the rod, and to the same distance below each of the level, points the whole edging should be formed. " But instead of being level, the walk may be required to have a uniform slope, so that one end of it shall be, say, 2 feet lower than the other. In this and similar cases find the horizontal level points at each end as before ; then mark a foot higher than the level point at the one end, and a foot lower at the other, and thus there will be a difference of 2 feet between these new points, and a straight line from one to the other will have the required slope." Lilium, or Lily (nat. onL Lilia'cese). The liliums, or lilies, now in cultivation are both various and- beautiful, and form a class of plants which of late has been largely extended, and which is really very valuable both for the greenhouse and the garden. The names of the principal WHITE LILV. varieties have been given in the list of bulbs (see Bulbs, List of}. The different kinds of lilies are so numerous that it is not possible to find space here to specify them, but it may be said that they are, for the most part, hardy bulbous perennials, and that all require very much the same kind of culture. General Culture in-doors. — Use a good mellow soil, composed of equal parts of leaf mould and loam, with a little peat, and one-sixth of silver sand. A 1 2-inch pot, with six bulbs planted in it, will LILIUM, OR LILY. X02 LILIUM, OR LILV. furnish a group of no ordinary beauty : smaller-sized pots will require fewer bulbs. Place at the bottom of the pot a piece of potsherd, and over it some pieces of wood charcoal and rough fibry soil to secure good drainage, then fill up with the com- post. When planted, the bulbs should be covered one inch, and the soil made close by pressure : they should be treated in their first stage of growth precisely as hyacinths grown in pots, except that they should remain buried in ashes or cocoa- fibre till they begin to indicate a top- growth. Those intended to flower early should be placed under glass, while such as are for late blooming should remain out of doors in a sheltered situation, the pots plunged to the rim in ashes or cocoa- fibre. Lilies in Pots, — Bulbs grown in pots may be preserved, as said, in the dormant state in cold pits or frames until spring, or on the marginal spaces of cold greenhouse paths, or stages where preserved from water drips. In the first position, the pots may be plunged in any dry material, as tan, leaf mould, &c. Many, among which may be named Lilium Catesbcei, L. Canadensc, and L. superbum, succeed best in a bed of peat or heath soil ; and where that is not attainable, equal proportions of half-de- composed leaf mould, wood ashes, and decayed branches, thoroughly mixed with river sand to one- third of the whole pro- portions, is a good substitute. In planting, cover each bulb with a clean stratum or layer of the last-named material. L, giganteum^ L. cordi/ollum, L. Japonicum, and L. Wallichianum or Neilgherrensc are not as yet proved strictly hardy in all localities, and therefore would be best potted after the blooming season, .and preserved in a cold pit or frame, to be again replanted in the spring. Where this precaution is inconvenient, the surface pots of these kinds in the beds should be covered with a heavy layer of dried tan, wood ashes, or sawdust. The remaining kinds are recognised as hardy species, and will thrive in good sandy loam or a mixture of loam and peat. General Culture out of Doors. — If the land be of an adhesive nature, it should be removed to the depth of 2 feet, and replaced with a rich, free soil, or else the bulbs should be planted in 5-inch pots, and early in May turned out where intended to bloom. Light or medium soils will only require deep digging and well working, with the addition of some thoroughly rotted manure. Plant the bulbs 5 inches deep, and for the first winter place on the surface a few dry leaves. The bulbs should not be disturbed oftener than once in three years, as established patches LILIUM SUl'ERBUM. bloom much more profusely than those taken up and divided annually. The varieties best adapted for in-door culture are L. atrosanguinium maculatum, L. lancifolium alburn^ L. punctatum, L. roseutn, L. rubrutn, and L. longiflorum. The Martagon varieties are very effective in borders ; so also are the common White Lily, L. candidum, the Orange Lily, L> LILY OF THE VALLEY. 303 LIME. croceum, and L. Chalcidonicum, or Scarlet Turk's Cap. Lily of the Valley (not. ord. Lilia'cese). To grow lilies of the valley (Convallaria mnjalis] to perfection, the roots should be set in bunches one foot apart and covered with a dressing of well -rotted manure before the winter sets in. They can hardly be treated too liberally. If grown in pots for the greenhouse, by a little management LILY OF THE VALLEY. a succession may be kept in bloom till June. Keep the pots perfectly dry and in a cool, shady place until their natural season is past, and by watering they soon come into foliage and flower. In buying of growers select plants with plump crowns ; if these are potted, a cluster of flowering spikes will be thrown up in each pot ; after flowering they may be turned into the border, where, in all probability, they will flower the following year. Lime. This is one of the most important manures that we possess. In trenching new ground that it is sought to bring into cultivation by deep digging, it should in many cases be accompanied by the incorporation of lime with thesoil, which sweetens, quick ens, and enriches it. Action of Lime. — The action of lime is chemical and not mechanical. " Lime, employed as a manure," says Scoffern, " performs three well-marked functions at least, perhaps more : in all it is a powerful ameliorator of soils, and under two series of conditions it should be used in different forms. New-burned caustic lime is a powerfully corrosive body ; when brought into contact with animal and vegetable tissues, it rapidly disorganises them. Even if the tissues be living, still the quicklime will effect their disorganisation. Hence arise the following deductions. When we have to deal with a rank new soil, teeming with noxious seeds, and with seeds ready to spring into life on the first opportunity, or when the object is to convert hard animal tissues, such as horn or kelp, or even softer ones, as clippings of woollen cloth, into a useful manure, unslaked lime is employed. On the other hand, when the object in adding lime to the soil is to supply the calcareous element as a mechani- cal means of ameliorating the texture of the soil, and a physiological means of supplying food to certain crops, and where there are no weeds nor noxious germs to destroy, nor organic tissues to decompose, then the employment of lime should be in the mild or slaked state." In both its forms, there- fore, lime is a powerful agent in the im- provement of soils, especially those in which clay and peat exist to any extent. Lime in Natural State. — Lime is found chiefly in the form of limestone and chalk ; it enters into the composition of all marls in the form of calcic carbonate in various proportions, ranging from 5 to even 90 per cent. ; and it is a large constituent of all shells and shell sand and of corals. Burning Limestone, &c. — Limestone and chalk, from which the chief part of the lime used in agricultural and gardening LIME. 304 LIME. purposes is derived, consist of calcic car- bonate and carbon dioxide in the propor- tion of 14 parts of the former to 1 1 parts of the latter. When subjected to the action of fire in a kiln, the carbon dioxide is liberated and driven off in the form of carbonic acid gas, a shimmering vapour that may be seen rising from the mouth of any kiln that is alight, and leaves the lime behind it in a pure or nearly pure state. In this condition it is known as caustic or quick lime. When water is poured on it, it heats almost immediately, pours forth steam, and ultimately falls to pieces, assuming the form of a white powder, which is known as slaked lime, the opera- tion of reducing the lime to powder by the agency of water being termed slaking. By chemists slaked lime is called hydrate of calcium. The powder thus obtained is composed very nearly of 3 parts of lime to I part of water. If quicklime is exposed to the action r.i the air, it first takes in water from the atmosphere, and then falls to powder in the same way as it does when water is poured directly upon it, though not so quickly. Lastly, the slaked lime, whether converted into powder rapidly by water or slowly by the air, gives off the water that it has retained, absorbs carbonic acid from the air, and ultimately becomes calcic carbonate, reverting as it were to the state in which it existed before it was burnt in the kiln ; the advantage arising from burning being chiefly that it is brought i into a state and condition suitable for ad- mixture with the soil. Advantages of Burning Lime. — The ad- vantages of burning lime are thus set forth in the " Elements of Agricultural Chemistry and Geology," by Johnston and Cameron: — " If the lime turn to the same chemical state of carbonate in which it existed in the state of chalk or limestone, what is the benefit of burning it ? The benefits are partly mechanical and partly chemical. '* (a) We have seen that on slaking the burnt lime falls to an exceedingly fine bulky powder. When it afterwards be- comes converted into carbonate, it still retains this exceedingly minute state of division ; and thus, whether as caustic hydrate or as a mild carbonate, can be spread over a large surface, and be in- timately mixed with the soil. No available mechanical means could be economically employed to reduce our limestones, or even our softer chalks, to a powder of equal fineness. " (/>) By burning, the lime is brought into a caustic state, which it retains, as we have seen, for a longer or shorter period, till it again absorbs carbonic acid from the air or from the soil. In this caustic state, its action upon the soil and upon organic matter is more energetic than in the state of mild lime ; and thus it is fitted to pro- duce effects which mere powdered lime- stone or chalk could not bring about at all, or to produce them more effectually and in a shorter period of time. " (c) Limestones often contain sulphur in combination with iron (iron pyrites). The coal or peat wif.h which it is burnt also contains sulphur. During the burning, a portion of this sulphur (oxidised) unites with the lime to form gypsum, by this means adding to the proportion of this substance which naturally exists in the limestone. "(d) Earthy and silicious matters are sometimes present in considerable quanti- ties in our limestone rocks. When burnt in the kiln, the silica of this earthy matter unites with lirne to form calcic silicate. The silicate being diffused through the burnt and slaked lime, and afterwards spread in a minute state of division over the soil, is in a condition in which it may yield silica to the growing plant, supposing silica to be essential. " Thus the benefit* of burning are, as VEGETABLE MARROWS. BROCCOLI. LIME. 305 LINUM. we have seen, partly mechanical and partly chemical. They are mechanical, inasmuch as by slaking the burnt lime can be reduced to a much finer and more bulky powder than the limestone could be by any mechanical means ; and they are chemical, inasmuch as by burning the lime is brought into a more active and caustic state, and is, at the same time, mixed with variable proportions of sulphate and silicate of lime, which may render it more useful to the growing crops. " Benefits of Lime. — It is not possible to lay down any precise rule for the applica- tion of lime as a manure, and the quantity to be used must depend chiefly on the soil itself and its special character. When ground is first taken into cultivation it may be applied in considerable quantities, but on land that has been already utilised for the production of crops it must not be used so freely. On clay lands a plentiful ad- mixture is beneficial, and on soils on which much vegetable matter is dug in it is equally serviceable. On light lands it must be used but moderately, and even then it is better to mix it with soil, turf in course of disintegration, &c., so as to form a com- post. The effect of lime is not immediately apparent, but shows itself the second or even third year after application. This, of course, does not apply to its use for the destruction of worms, slugs, grubs, &c.t which promptly feel and acknowledge the application of caustic lime and lime just slaked. Stiff and heavy lands are lightened and mellowed by its presence, and the crops that are yielded by land judicious: y limed are heavier, better, and earlier than those which it produced before liming. Lime and Chief Varieties. Of the lime, 7'itia, the common variety of which is Tilia- Europaa, there are T. alba, the white-leaved and white-wooded lime, and T. pendula, the weeping lime, both of which may be planted separately, or interspersed with other trees with very good effect. Linaria (nat. ord. Scrophularia'cese). The name of a genus of plants containing many species, mostly annuals and peren- nials. They will grow on rock work or in any well-drained soil and position. Linaria vulgaris, or the Common Toadflax, being indigenous to Britain, and often found as a trailer on old walls. It has a pretty, round^ indented leaf and a lilac and yellow flower, resembling that of a snapdragon in shape, only very much smaller. They like a light LINARIA RETICULATA. soil and are easily propagated by seeds or divisions of the plant. L. saxatilis is a pretty trailing perennial with yellow flowers. The sorts usually supplied by the seedsmen as annuals are L. aurea reticulata, a dwarf, bushy annual with small snapdragon-like flowers, purple in colour, flecked with gold ; L. bipartita splendida, a pot plant, with red or purple flowers, and L. Alaroccana, with dark, plum-coloured flowers. Li'num (nat. ord. Lina'ceae). A fine genus of annual and perennial free-flowering plants, with blue, rose, scarlet, or white flowers, among which stands distinguished for its beautiful saucer- shaped flowers of rich crimson-scarlet with crimson-black centre, Linum grandiflorunt rubrum, Scarlet Flax, one of the raost effective and showy annuals ; having a 21 LIQUID MANURE TANK. 306 LONICERA. slender and delicate habit of growth, and producing flowers in profusion for many months. Z. flavum, with its golden- yellow blossoms, profusion and duration LINUM GRANUIFLORUM. of bloom, forms a valuable contrast and companion to the above. L. luteum corym- bifloruHi) with its beautiful straw-colour blossoms, also forms a pleasing contrast to L, g. rubrufn, L. eompanulatuin, L.jlavuni, and L. grandtflorum rubrum do well in pots. The plants succeed best in a light rich soil. Liquid Manure Tank. In anticipation of a hot, dry summer, every garden should be provided with a liquid manure tank, and this may be easily and inexpensively made of an old tar- barrel either standing on the surface or sunk into the ground. The barrel should be filled about one-third with well-rotted cow dung and two-thirds pond or rain water, and occasionally stirred. As the liquid is used up, more water may be placed upon the sediment, which, as it becomes exhausted, can be replenished from the cow-yard and the stable-drain. Liriodendron Magnolia' - The tulip- tree, or Liriodendron tulipi- fera, is a hardy deciduous tree with maple- like leaves and bark blotched with large, yellowish spots, bearing a scented tulip- shaped flower, variegated, with yellow, orange, and green. The tree is propagated by seeds, which should be placed in good, rich loam in a sheltered, shaded spoc. Lobe'lia (nat. onl, Lobelia'cese). A genus of exceedingly pretty profuse- blooming plants, of which the low-growing kinds make the most beautiful edgings. L. spedosa, a dark blue hybrid variety, forms an excellent contrast to Cerastium tomentosum and the variegated alyssum ; L. gracilis, from its bush-like habit and profusion of celestial-blue flowers, is equally beautiful in pots, beds, or when used as an edging : all the varieties of /,. Erinus are valuable for hanging baskets, rustic- work, or vases, over the edges of which they droop in the most graceful and elegant manner. The perennial species, with their handsome spikes of flowers, are exceedingly ornamental, and are valuable from their blooming in autumn, with gladioli, Lilitun lancifoliiun, tritomas, &c. All the varieties grow freely from seed, and most of them LOBELIA. from cuttings. Many varieties of the lobelia are used as bedding plants. Lonicera (nat. ord. Caprifolia'cese). A genus comprising all the trailing and climbing hardy and half-hardy deciduous or evergreen plants known to us as honey- LOTUS. 307 LYCHNIS. suckles. They are admirably adapted for covering walls, trellises, summer-houses, &c. They will thrive in any good garden soil, and frequently in shaded positions, and may be propagated by cuttings ant? layers— indeed, a piece passed through the bottom of a pot and cut at a joint will soon take root in mould placed in the pot if kept moderately moist, and form an independent plant. L. sempervirens forms a beautiful greenhouse climber. L. pericly- menum is the woodbine, or Common Honey- suckle. L. Japonica is the Japanese honeysuckle, which is chiefly remarkable for its pretty, variegated heart-shaped leaves. There is a sort sold as the " Dutch " honeysuckle, which seems to l)e L. purnicea, or the scarlet- flowered honeysuckle. Lotus (not. ord. Legumino'sse). The hardy varieties of this plant, also known as Birds'-foot Trefoil, are well suited for ornamenting rockwork or dry banks. Lotus Aitstralis, with its splendid spikes of rose-coloured flowers and dwarf habit, grows freely from seeds or cuttings placed in light soil. Other varieties are L. corniculatus, the common birds'-foot trefoil, with bright yellow flowers, and Z. Jacobtfus, with dark purple flower, a greenhouse perennial. L. Jacobins hiteus, yellow, 2 feet, from Cape de Verd Islands ; j hair-hardy perennials. Lcyre-Apple. A name sometimes given to the tomato, which see. Lupi'llUS (nat. onL Legumino'sae). Free-flowering garden plants, annuals or perennials, with long graceful spikes of bloom, colours rich and beautiful. Many of the varieties are of a stately, robust growth, which makes them exceedingly Valuable for mixed flower and shrubbery borders, wliile the dwarf varieties make neat, trim bedding plants. Amongst the most distinguished may be mentioned Lnpi- mis Haitive^i and varieties; L. hybridus and varieties ; L. Alenziesi, L. magnificus, L. hiteus, and/,, subcartwsus. Many other sorts besides these will be found named in seedsmen's lists. Lychnis (nat. ord. Caryophylla'ceae). A genus of hardy annual or perennial SCARLET LYCHNIS. plants, among which is the garden flower- LYCHNIS. 308 LYCHNIS. a perennial — known as Rose Campion. They thrive in any good garden soil, and especially in rich, light loam. They are easily propagated, the annuals by seeds and the perennials by division of the roots, in tpring. Among the perennials Lychnis Chalcedonica, or Scarlet Lychnis, with its pretty scarlet verbena-like blossom, is perhaps the best known. Others are L. C. alba, with white flowers ; L. flos Jovis ; bright rose ; L. fulgens, glowing crimson ; L. Haageana, orange scarlet ; and L. speciosa, dark rose. All these varieties are well worth growing. LILIUM AURAIUM. ^aai^SJl ; Know ye the land where the Cypress and Myrtle Are emblems of deeds that are done in their clime \ Where the rage of the vulture, the love of the turtle, Now melt into sadness, now madden to crime ? Know ye the land of the cedar and vine, Where the flowers ever blossom, the beams ever shine : Where the light wings of Zephyr, oppress'd with perfume, Was faint ' AGNESIA. See Soils, Fertile, Chemical Con- stituents of. Manganese. See Soils, Fertile, Chemical Con- stituents of. Manure. Collecting and preparing manure, and transporting it where it is wanted, are operations that should be attended to when other operations become impossible. The waste, not only of liquid, but solid manure, in this country, is enormous. Everything that has ever been endowed with life, and all the excreta proceeding from them, are available for manure. Their nature, varieties, influence, and o'er the gardens of Giil in her bloom." BYRON. the mode of their application, may be endlessly varied ; but all alike possess a power of enriching the earth. The hard texture of bone or wood fibre may render it desirable to subject them to chemical action, or the influence of fire, to render them more speedily available to the wants of plants ; but these hard substances possess the elements of plant -food in common with the soft constituents ot plants and animals. The influence of sulphuric acid upon bones is well known. When fire is used to break down or soften woody fibre, it should be applied so as to char, and not to burn it. Charring is effected by covering the heap of r;ood to be operated upon with turf or earth, so as almost entirely to exclude the air, and Ihw insure slow combustion. Almost any MAPLE. 310 MARIGOLD. vegetable refuse, including roots of weeds, can he charred ; and this char- coal, saturated with urine, is one of the AFRICAN MARIGOLD. best fertilisers. It may be usefully drilled in with seeds, in a dry state. The scour- ings of ditches, scrapings of roads, decayed short grass and weeds, half-rotten leaves, soot, and every bit of solid manure that can be got, should be collected and thoroughly mixed together. The excreta of most animals are too rank and strong for flower-garden purposes, applied in a pure state ; by mixing, however, with the various substances named above, the bulk of the manure may be quadrupled ; it will be sooner available, and much more valuable. There are many very useful fertilisers now supplied for garden and greenhouse use, and among these With's *' Improved Universal Carbon Manure," to be obtained from the Hereford Society for Aiding the Industrious, Bath Street, Hereford, and Jensen's " Norwegian Fish Potash Manure" appears to be the most valuable. Maple and Chief Varieties. Of the maple, Acer, Acer campestre, the common maple, is a showy tree, beautiful in growth and foliage ; but there are several others which are even more beautiful : A. macrophyllum, the long- leaved maple, is very striking ; and so, also, are A. laciniatum^ the cut-leaved variegated, and A. rubrum, the scarlet or swamp maple ; also A. striatum, the snake-barked variety, which almost rivals the cork tree. Marigold (nat. ord. Composite). Well-known, free-flowering hardy and half-hardy annuals with handsome double flowers, of rich and beautiful colours, producing a splendid effect, whether planted in beds, borders, or ribbons. These annuals were in former years very much in request; but, as many very beau- tiful and once popular garden flowers have done, in common with the mari- gold, have been well-nigh forgotten for a time, and have had to give place to others which have had in reality but little to recommend them beyond the fact that they are "novelties," and so cannot fail to be worthy of notice. But just as the wheel revolves and the spoke which is pointing to the ground is presently brought into a direction directly oppo- site, so the marigold, now greatly im- proved by culture, is rapidly regaining popularity and resuming its former posi- tion among the favourites of the garden. The common marigold (Calendula offi- cinalis) has large daisy-shaped flowers varying in colour from pale yellow to KRKNCII MARIGOLD. deep orange. They are grown for the sake of the flowers which are dried and map\e. A. alba variegatum, the white ' used in broths and. soups. The African MARTAGON LILY. MATHIOLA. marigolds (Tagetes erecta), the tallest, are also the most striking in large beds, mixed flower and shrubbery borders. The shorter French marigolds (Tagetes patuld), in beds, or used as a foreground to taller plant?, MARTAGON LILY. are invaluable, while the new brown and new orange miniature French varieties make splendid compact edgings to beds or borders. All sorts are propagated by seeds sown in March and April. Mart agon Lily, or Turk's Cap Lily (nat. ord. Lilia'ceae). For the culture of lilies of all kinds see Liliums or Lily. This beautiful species of lily is so called from the shape of its flowers, which are pendulous, or hanging in the manner of a bell, the petals being reflexed or turned back- ward and upward until the tips nearly touch the base of the flower. The flower spikes are long, often numbering as many as twenty blossoms of a pur- plish pink in colour spotted with dark! Marvel of Peru (not. ord. Nycta- gin'ese). A genus containing about ten or a dozen species of greenhouse and hardy perennials of which the best known is Mirabilisjalapa, or Common Marvel of Peru, from whose tuberous roots the purgative jalap is pre- pared. The flowers are various in colour, being yellow, crimson, or white, or one or other of these colours striped or spotted with another. It will grow best in a light rich loam, but does well in any good well-drained garden soil. The roots are taken up and stored by nurserymen for sale in spring. It can be grown from seeds sown in gentle heat at the end of March or beginning of April and planted out in May. Mathiola (not. ord. Cruci'ferse). It is to this genus that all the flowers known as Stocks belong, and for the general culture of these pretty and sweet- scented flowers the reader is referred to Stocks, which see. The genus is mentioned here for the purpose of calling attention to Mathiola odoratissiina, otherwise known as the Night Scented Slock, a small green- purple. The leaves grow round the stem. in whorls Marrows. See Gourds, Vegetable Marrows. COMMON MARVEL OF 1'EKU. house shrub, which is reared in this country as an annual, being raised from seed in gentle heat and planted out in May. It is a very ordinary looking plant, with small, insignificant flowers of a dingy cream MATS FOR FRAMES. 312 MEASURES. colour, changing ultimately to purplish brown, scentless by day, but exhaling a delicious perfume when the evening comes. Mats for Frames. As a substitute for the Russian garden mats, which are expensive, and often not warm enough for protection against frost, i very durable and efficient mat may be made of the long, stout reeds which are used by thatchers and plasterers, and which, in the fens and other parts of the country in which they are grown, may be bought for a mere trifle. Cvt the reeds into lengths of 4^ feet for the width of the mat ; work them in bunches about i$ inch thick, as shown in the illus- tration to, and remarks on Cold Frames, Mats for, which see. The bunches must be tied tight together with a strong cord, in three places, each with a single tie ; the mat will thus present a succession of rolls of reeds strongly fastened together, forming a strong warm covering for frames and pits. The mat can be made of any length that may be required, and if rolled up and stowed away in a dry place, will last for years. Maurandya (nat. ord. Scrophu- laria'cese). A genus comprising six or seven species of a beautiful but delicately fashioned and somewhat tender greenhouse climber, of which the best known is Maurandya Bar- dayana. This and other species, notably M. erubescent, with rose-coloured flowers on a whitish tube, and M, scandens, with purple-violet flowers, will grow in the open ground, if planted in a warm and sheltered position. The flowers of M. Bardayana are of a violet-purple colour with a greenish tube. They are raised from seed sown on a mild hotbed in gentle heat at the end of March, to be removed to the quarters in which they are to flower at the end of May or beginning of June. BLOOMS OF VARIETIES OF MAURANDYA. There are few climbers that excel M. Bardayana as a decorative plant of its kind for the greenhouse or conservatory, the beauty of its flowers being exquisitely enhanced for the form and colour of its ivy-like leaves. It cannot be too highly recommended to the attention of amateur gardeners. May Bug. A general name under which is included those insects known as the Cockchafer, the Oak Web and the Fern Web, of which the first named is the largest and the last the smallest. They do much damage to trees, especially the oak, fruit- trees, and roses. They must be cleared away by hand-picking. Mealy Bug. See American Blight. Meadow -Sweet. See Spirea. Measures, London Market, For Fruit and Vegetables. Most of these being made either of wicker-work or deal shavings vary in size just a trifle more than measures made of less flexible materials. MEASURES. MELIANTHUS. Seakale Punnets. — Eight inches diameter at the top, and seven and a half inches at the bottom, and two inches deep. Radish Punnets. — Eight inches diameter, and one inch deep, if to hold six hands ; or nine inches by one inch for twelve hands. Mushroom Punnets. — Seven inches by one inch. Salading Punnets. — Five inches by two inches. Half Sieve. — Contains three and a half imperial gallons. It averages twelve and a half inches in diameter, and six inches in depth. Sieve. — Contains seven imperial gallons. Diameter fifteen inches, depth eight inches. A sieve of currants twenty quarts. Bushel Sieve. — Ten and a half imperial gallons. Diameter at top seventeen inches and three-quarters, at bottom seventeen inches ; depth eleven inches and a quarter. Bushel Basket. — Ought, when heaped, to contain an imperial bushel. Diameter at bottom ten inches, at top fourteen inches and a half; depth seventeen inches. Wal- nuts, nuts, apples, and potatoes, are sold by measure. A bushel of the last-named, cleansed, weighs 56 lb., but four Ibs. additional are allowed if they are not washed. A junk contains two-thirds of a bushel. Pottle.— Is a long tapering basket that holds rather over a pint and a half. A pottle of strawberries should hold half a gallon, but never holds more than one quart ; a pottle of mushrooms should weigh one pound. Hand.— Applies to a bunch of radishes, which contains from 12 to 30 or more according to the season. Bundle. — Contains 6 to 20 heads of broccoli, celery, &c. ; seakale, 12 to 18 heads ; rhubarb, 20 to 30 stems, according to size ; and of asparagus, from 100 to 125. Bunch.— Is applied to herbs, &c., and varies much in size according to the season. A bunch of turnips is 12 to 25 ; of carrots, 15 to 40; of greens, as many as can be tied together by the roots. Grapes are put up in 2lb. and 4lb. punnets ; new potatoes, by the London growers, in 2lb. punnets. Apples and pears are put up in bushels, sieves, or half sieves. A hundred weight of Kentish filberts is 100 lb. Weights are always 16 oz. to the pound. Medlars, Mulberries, Quinces, &c. There is nothing of any especial im- portance to be said about the culture of these fruits, the mode of planting being similar to that adopted for any standard tree wherever there is room for them : one or two trees of each kind should be planted : the first and last may be placed ia the garden or orchard, the second should have grass under it to save the fruit from injury when it falls. In buying these trees, or, indeed, fruit-trees of any kind, it is desir- able to state nature of soil and the position they are to occupy to the nurseryman, and then leave it to him to make the selection. Of medlars there are three varieties, the Dutch, the Nottingham, and the Stoneless. Mulberries are of two kinds only, the Black and the White. Quinces are distinguished as Common, Portugal, Apple-shaped, and Pear-shaped. There is also a variety known as the Chinese quince. Melian'thus (not. ord. Sapinda'cew). This, also known as the honey-flower, is a native of the Cape of Good Hope. It is a shrubby plant, with bluish-green leaves, and in our climate is mostly found in greenhouses. If grown in the open air and slightly protected from frost, it will attain some 4 or 5 feet in height, and MELONS, CULTURE OF. 3H MELONS, CULTURE OF. produce abundantly large spikes of flowers of a brownish-red colour. It requires a rich, light soil. It may be propagated by seeds or cuttings taken in spring and placed under a handglass. Melons, Culture of. The culture of the melon is very similar to that of the cucumber. The preparation of the manure, making the bed, raising the plants, the stopping and setting, are the same ; but the soil in which they are finally planted should be trodden down rather TYPES OF MELONS — (A) GREEN-FLESHED, NETTED ; (fi) CANTALOUP. firmly ; and as the fruit appears all nearly about the same time, it is advisable to have them swell off as nearly as possible to- gether ; otherwise, the most forward will take the lead, and become much larger than the other. Two melons on a plant are as much as can be expected to do well ; but never more than three should be allowed, to remain : pinch off all the rest, and every other unnecessary growth. It is important that the plants be not allowed to ramble after the fruit has begun to swell, for this will require the whole strength of the plant. The fruit takes some four or five weeks, occasionally more, from the time of setting to the time of ripening, which is indicated by the stalk appearing to separate from the fruit. They should be cut and used on the day this takes place, or very soon after. Second Crop, Production of. — As soon as the fruit is cut (if it is intended that they should bear a second crop), prune back the shoots to where the fresh growth com- mences. Two or three inches of fresh loam should be spread over the surface of the bed, which should at the same time have a good soaking with manure water, to assist the plants to make a fresh growth ; an additional stimulus at the same time should be given to the roots by slightly increasing the bottom heat. Bring forward the succeeding crops, and take every means to keep down the red spider, which, when once established on the foliage, is most difficult to destroy. Moisture, Regulation of. — Melons, while ripening their fruk, are very liable to crack when exposed to moisture, or when water is supplied too freely to theii roots. This is more likely to happen with the higher flavoured ones, from the thinness of their skin. In common frames some difficulty will be found in keeping the air sufficiently dry. To prevent this in moist weather, air must be left on at night both back and front, to admit of a slight circulation ; and a little extra heat should be thrown into the bed, to keep up the temperature, by turning over linings. Where, however, melons are grown by the assistance of hot water, an atmosphere can be maintained which will fully carry out the ripening process of this delicious fruit, even in unfavourable weather. In watering melons, great caution must be used in supplying only the exact quantity wanted, as an excess of water at the roots only tends MELONS, TRAINING OF. 315 MF.SEMRRYANTIIEMUM. to increase the size and deteriorate the quality of the fruit. The kind of structure the plants are grown in will have some effect on the quantity of water they will require. In lofty pits or houses, where the foliage attains a large size, and where a much drier atmosphere is obtained than in frames and low pits, more water will be necessary, and the surface of the soil should be frequently sprinkled. Melons, Training of, in Frame and Pit. An ordinary melon pit is best for a main crop ; but, to have them early, a hotbed and frame is the next best thing to hot- water pits. In training them in a frame, have two plants under the middle, and each light placed close together. Stop them at the second leaf, when each plant will throw out three shoots, which are trained fan-like, so that the three shoots from each of the two plants radiate from a centre, and the laterals from these bear the fruit ; but never allow more than one to swell off on the same vine, so that each plant has three vines, and each vine one fruit, or six melons from each light. In the pit, which has 6 feet clear space from back to front, the procedure is as follows : — About the beginning of May a quantity of stable dung is procured, and prepared by turning and wetting if necessary; this will be about the middle of the month ; by that time the pit is cleared of what had formerly occupied it. The dung is then thrown in and levelled ; three days after, some good stiff loam is laid on to the thickness of 7 or 8 inches; this is well trodden down, and in three days more the plants are put in a row, about 18 inches from the back, and another about the same distance from the front, the plants being about 18 inches apart. At the second leaf the plants are stopped, and each plant makes two vines, one trained towards the back of the pit, the other to the front. To insure a good crop, any number of fruit may be set ; but one to each vine, or two to each plant, is sufficient ; no more ought to be allowed to swell, and all superfluous growth should be prevented : the too common practice of allowing the plants to grow and set as they please is not profitable. Both the cucum- ber and melon grow freely in a moist heat — a certain amount of humidity is indispensable to secure a vigorous and healthy growth ; but the melon should be kept moderately dry while setting, and also at the time of ripening the fruit ; a copious watering once a week is sufficient for the roots, but the foliage should be sprinkled every day, just before closing up for the night. Early closing is best. Ob- serve that in watering cucumbers, melons, or any plant growing in heat, warm water should be used, otherwise the plants are retarded by the chill imparted by cold water. Mesembryan'themum (nat. ord. Ficoidese). A brilliant and profuse-flowering tribe of extremely pretty, dwarf-growing shrubby MESEMBRYANTHEMUM. plants, from the Cape of Good Hope, strik- ing effective in beds, edgings, rock-work, rustic baskets, or vases in warm, sunny situations ; also for in -door decoration, grown in pots, pans, or boxes. They MICE. MICE, TRAPS FOR. succeed best in a dry, loamy soil, and are easily propagated by cuttings or slips with a heel to them. Plenty of lime or mortar rubbish, road grits, and well-rotted manure should be mixed with the soil in FIG. I. — 1MCKLE JAR AS 1RAI' FOR MOUSE. which they are grown. The varieties are very numerous. The plant is also known as the Fig Marigold. It has thick, fleshy leaves, and, being a succulent plant, requires but little water. Mice. Much harm is done by mice in gardens to peas newly sown and just growing and to bulbs, which they gnaw and eat and thus destroy. They are especially harmful to crocuses, and will do injury to most seeds of a large kind, such as the seeds of cucumbers, melons, vegetable marrows, £c. It is supposed that they are guided to the seeds by their acute sense of smell, and it is said that rows of peas covered with a coating of ashes are never touched by them, in which case the ashes will have acted as a deodoriser and destroyed the scent which would* otherwise have led the mice to the peas. Mice, Traps for. Some gardeners have used the common mouse trap with good effect, oiling the wires to preserve them from rusting, or smearing them with grease. Perhaps the simplest and cheapest .trap of any is a pickle jar sunk to the brim, or very nearly so, in the earth, as shown in Fig. i. The rim and the inside of the jar as far as the shoulder should be liberally smeared with grease, and the jar half filled with water. A little corn, lumps of grease, &c., may be placed on the earth in the immediate vicinity of the jar. The mice, being attracted to the trap by the grease, soon manage to slip over the rim into the water below, from which there is no escape. Another cheap and effective trap may be made of a brick, but as this only disposes of one mouse at a time, and must be re-set before another can be caught, it is not as useful as the jar that has just been de- scribed. A piece of slate of the same width as the brick should be obtained and placed on the ground, and the brick then set on edge over the slate, as shown in Fig. 2. The support for the brick is made of a piece of thread about 10 inches long, with a knot at each end, inserted in slits made in the ends of two short sticks, which are stuck into the ground, one on each side of the brick and slate. On the thread tw(o HG. 2. — BRICK AS TRAP l-Oli MICK growing peas are strung, or two kernels of nuts, and the thread itself should be well greased. The mouse, standing on the slate, is tempted to gnaw the peas or nuts and the thread between them, the peas, &c., being placed about i inch apart ; MICE, TRAPS FOR. MIGNONETTE, TREE. when the string is gnawed through the brick falls and crushes the mouse. The object of the slate is to obtain a solid sur- face on which the brick may fall ; if there FIG. 3.— A GARDEN MOUSE TRAP. was a cavity in the earth the mouse might take refuge therein, and thus make his escape, and otherwise, if the soil were soft, the poor animal might be partly driven into it and its death struggle unduly prolonged. The following plan has been found very effectual in destroying mice. Fig. 3 is a re- presentation of a trap which is a glazed pot, about the size of a 24-inch pot, but 2 or 3 inches deeper, with four projections on the upper edge, each opposite pair being placed i^ inch apart. A zinc pail, however, may be easily filled with the projections, and so utilised for the purpose in view. The rest of the apparatus consists of a round stick 3 inch in diameter, on the centre of which is fixed a turned wooden roller, 3 inches in diameter and f inch thick. The round stick should be 5 inches longer than the diameter of the pot and so project 2.\ inches over its outside each way. Four or five baits should be fastened on the edge of the roller with tin-tacks ; the baits consisting of either cheese or bacon rind, or garden beans. Thus baited, the stick is laid between the projections on the rim of the pot, with the roller exactly in the centre. The pot, or pail, must be half filled with water and sunk in the soil, so that the stick, when in position, clears the ground about J- inch. A mouse endeavouring to get at the bait has to travel along the stick to the roller, but cannot reach the bait without rising on the roller ; when it does this the roller revolves, the mouse loses its balance and is precipitated into the water, leaving the trap ready set for others to follow. Mignonette (nat. ord. Reseda'cese). A well-known fragrant favourite, which forms a pleasing contrast to the more showy occupants of the flower border. If well thinned out immediately the plants are large enough, they will grow stronger, and produce larger racemes of bloom. The seed should be scattered about shrub- beries and mixed flower borders, where it grows readily. There are many varieties of mignonette, whose names may be as- certained from any seedsman's list. The "Giant" mignonette is, perhaps, the most recent introduction. Mignonette, Tree. A plant or two of tree mignonette adds greatly to the fragrance of the greenhouse, MIGNONETTE. if made to blossom during winter, which is readily effected by stopping the blooms in spring and autumn. The tree mignonette is formed by training a vigorous plant of common mignonette for about three years. Sow the seed very thin in April, draw out MILDEW. 318 MIMOSA. to a single plant. Next autumn remove all the lower shoots and shape the plant into a tree. Somewhat later shift into a larger pot in good loam. Keep it in a warm greenhouse and in a growing state, carefully removing all flowers. In the spring it will appear woody. Treat it in the same manner the next year, removing all branches except those that are to form the head of the tree. By the third year it will have bark on its trunk, and form a handsome shrub ; and by stopping the flowers as they appear during summer and autumn, it may be made to blossom free-y during winter and spring for many years in succession. Mildew. Mildew is due to the presence of a fungus caused by parasites, and is often promoted by want of proper attention to ventilation. Syringe the plant upon which the mildew has begun to make its appearance, with a strong decoction of green leaves of the elder ; or use in the same way a solution of nitre, made in the proportion of one ounce of nitre to one gallon of water. A mixture of soapsuds and sulphur will, in many cases, answer the same purpose. For the treatment of mildew on grapes, remove every specked berry at once, and paint the pipes of the hothouse with a mixture of equal parts lime and sulphur. Dusting with flour of sulphur is beneficial, especially in the case of grapes. Among preparations sold for the purpose of counter- acting the ill effects of mildew Ewing's Mildew Composition, used in the propor- tion of one ounce to one gallon of lukewarm water and applied with a syringe, is con- sidered the best. Mint. This herb grows from pieces of the roots, which spread with rapidity ; for every piece that shows a joint will grow. It requires a moist soil, and the bed in which it is placed should be enclosed with a string, brick, or tile edging, as it is frequently very troublesome in running about. Division of the roots should be made in February or March. When the plants are about to bloom, the stalks should be cut and dried for winter use. Towards the close of autumn all the stalks that remain should be cut down to the ground, and the bed covered with fresh soil to the depth of I inch. The varieties of mint grown in gardens are spearmint, peppermint, and pennyroyal, the last- named being used chiefly for medicinal purposes. Mimo'sa (nat. ord. Legumino'sse). The mimosas, which are very few in number, are extremely curious and in- MIMOSA PUDICA. teresting plants ; for the leaves of Mimosa Pudica (the Humble-plant) and of Al. Sensitiva (the Sensitive-plant) close if touched or violently shaken. They are really greenhouse perennials, but will sometimes succeed out of doors in a warm situation, growing freely in peat and loam. They are raised from seeds sown in spring in gentle heat or from cuttings MIMULUS. 319 MIXED GARDENS. also placed in heat, should be used. Light, sandy soil looked upon the cultivation of mushrooms. It may, however, be very readily cultivated by attending to the following directions : — Make an incision in the bark of an apple- tree — many other trees, as the pear, oak, Mimu'lus (not. ord. Scrophulari'nese). A genus of extremely handsome profuse flowering perennial plants, with singularly j white-thorn, and even laurels, will answer equally well — and into this incision, in the spring of the year, insert some well- ripened berries of the mistletoe, carefully tying the bark over with a piece of bass, mat, or woollen yarn. This experiment often fails, from the birds running away with the berries from the place where they have been inserted, for they are very fond of them. To prevent this, the incision in the bark should be made on the underside of a hanging branch, where birds are not likely to rest. Mixed Gardens. There are thousands of good old English gardens where it would not only be con- trary to the genius of the place, but practi- shaped and brilliantly coloured flowers, cally impossible, to separate altogether the which are distinguished by their rich and kitchen and flower garden. Most gardens strikingly beautiful markings. Seed sown attached to farmsteads, and many vicarage in spring makes fine bedding plants for gardens, fall under this category. But there summer blooming, and seed sown in autumn produces very effective early- flowering plants for greenhouse decora- tion, £c. The best known of these plants is Mimu- lus moschatus, the Common Musk, which is a universal favourite. M. luteus, with yellow blossoms marked with dark blotches, is the variety known as the Monkey Flower. M. Cardinalis, with its red blossoms of peculiar form and its varieties, is a very handsome perennial, and looks well in juxtaposition with Salvia patens, which has brilliant, azure-blue flowers. MIMULUS MOSCHATUS, OR MUSK. MlS tletoe. are many others of greater pretensions, To many persons the cultivation of the where it would be a great mistake to leave mistletoe is looked upon with as much what is called the kitchen garden entirely doubt as we are told the ancient Romans devoid of floral ornaments. Without at all . MOLES. 320 MOLES, TRAPS FOR. interfering with the proper and profitable culture of vegetables and fruits, the kitchen garden, with a little taste and far less labour, may be made extremely ornamental. Let the walks that need it be kept well gravelled ; and as box-edging is always getting out of order in a kitchen garden, substitute for this a thin tile, one foot long and one inch thick, and about six inches deep, scalloped at the top, which may be purchased in various patterns ; or a row of fine bricks, laid at an angle, makes a good edging. These, which are very inexpensive, and last a long while, should be inserted half their depth in the soil, and form a very useful and ornamental division between the walk and the border: a small movable wooden step should be used whenever it is necessary for the barrow to pass over them. A broad grass-walk, also, down the centre, or elsewhere in the kitchen garden may be made to contribute much to the beauty of it, by having rows of well-trainee pyramidal pear-trees planted on each side with standard rose-trees in the intervals between the pears, and in a line about two feet nearer than they are to the centre o the walk ; wire arches, with roses ove them, may in different places be thrown across the gravel walks without at all inter fering with the general purpose of the garden, and with a very pleasing effect Crocuses, narcissi, and daffodils near the edging tiles will make the walks gay in th spring. The piers of the walls also, with out at all interfering with the fruit-trees may have many pretty flowering shrubs £c., trained up them. Moles. The mole, "the little gentleman in th black velvet coat " which was instrumenta in causing the death of William III., an was thus toasted by the recalcitrant Jaco bites, does great damage at times t meadows, grass lands, and gardens, bu is doubtful if the harm done to lawns nd meadows is really serious. The hil- >cks are unsightly, but they can be easily ispersed over the grass, and the runs in leir immediate vicinity trodden down. It in gardens, perhaps, that the mole does enuine harm, when it burrows under ansies, onions, &c., but it can do no njury to potatoes and strong growing rops. And the harm that it does in a ^arden is counterbalanced to a certain xtent by the fact that it eats wireworms .nd large earthworms, the former of which ,re injurious to many plants. These trouble- ome intruders, it is said, may be driven )ut of the garden by placing the green eaves of the common elder in their sub- erranean paths, for the smell of these is >o offensive to them, that they will not come near it ; or they may be poisoned by Dlacing in their paths worms, which, for some time, have been left in a place with a small quantity of carbonate of barytes. Moles, Traps for. The old-fashioned mole trap is effective, but it requires nice arrangement, and it s only the professional mole-catcher that can manage it with decided success. The amateur gets puzzled in the endeavour to prick for their runs, and this is an equal objection to the iron trap sold by iron- mongers for catching moles at jd. °r 8d. If the run can be found in the immediate neighbourhood of the hillock, the trap can be set ; but even then great care must be taken not to choke and destroy the run. Some advise opening the run and firing a piece of rag soaked in paraffin in order to drive them away by the smell, which is offensive to the moles. Others recommend watching for them at about 9 a.m. and 3 p.m., the times when they are said to heave the hillocks that they make, speak- ing generally, and then to dig under the place sharply and quickly with a fork, and MOLES, TRAPS FOR. 321 MOSS ON GRAVEL WALKS. thus eject the mole, and then kill it. But a waiting game is always tiresome, and it is probable that the concussion of the ground under the footsteps of the approach ing gardener may frequently scare the mole, and render the plan abortive. When it is desired to get rid of them, the best course is to send for the mole-catcher. When the weather is hot, moles work deeply ; when it rains and the worms rise to the surface, the moles work near the surface also. In watching for moles, the rising of worms to the surface is a sure indication of the presence of a mole below and near, and as soon as any motion of the soil is noticed, AN EFFECTIVE MOLE TRAF. the fork should be thrust in as deeply as possible, in order to turn out the mole. There is a contrivance for catching moles which has been proved to be effectual, and which can be easily made. This is merely a large flower pot — an old tin pail will answer the purpose excellently — sunk beneath the ground upon a level with the floor of the run. A flat piece of board is laid over the run, and the earth heaped upon it so as to exclude the light com- pletely. Its success chiefly lies in the perfect simplicity of the thing. The moles, seeing or feeling nothing with the highly sensitive " feelers " upon their snouts, run very readily into the trap, from which there is no escape. Every fresh arrival adds to the company, for there is no re- setting required, and there is no dis- turbance of the ground to excite suspicion. Doubtless the movements of the moles themselves attract other unfortunates to their ruin, for one who tried the trap with eminent success caught seven moles the first day, and three the second, after setting it. Money Wort. See Nummularia. One of the names by which the pretty basket-plant Lysimachia nummularia, or Creeping Jenny, is also known. Monkey Puzzle. A name given to the Araucaria (Arau- caria imbricata}t or Chilian pine. Moss on Fruit-trees. Wash the branches of the trees wherever moss appears with strong lime-water : itrong brine made with common salt will also answer the same purpose. Moss should never be allowed to accumulate on fruit-trees, as it not only disfigures them but injures the bark ; more than this, when it has attained firm hold on the bark by long continuance it is all the more difficult to remove, and harm may be done by attempts to dislodge it by other means than those mentioned above. Prevention is better than cure, and if moss shows itself on the bark it is better :o lime-wash the trees periodically to :heck it. Moss on Gravel Walks. Sprinkle the walks and yards over with refuse salt, but be careful to keep the salt rom box -edgings and the sides of the grass. This sprinkling should be done in dewy or damp weather, but not during rain. A strong solution of sulphate of copper, other- wise known as blue vitriol, has been found most effectual in eradicating moss. 22 MOSS ON LAWNS. 322 MULBERRY. Moss on Lawns. All remedies are useless until the lawn is well drained ; when this is done, rake the grass with a sharp-toothed rake in different directions to drag out the moss, and roll with a very heavy roller in wet weather. Nitrate of soda, at the rate of one and a half to two cwt. per acre, should be sown in tine spring, over the mossy grass. Very fine coal ashes, also, may with great benefit be spread over those parts of the lawn where moss abounds, especially if done in wet weather, or before a soaking rain. MOSS Rose. See Rose, Moss. Moss, Uses of. In sending out plants it is sometimes of service to envelop their roots with it. MOULD SCUTTLE. Sometimes it is used as a covering to mould in pot plants to prevent it getting dry by too rapid evaporation. Bulbs, as, for example, hyacinths, may be grown in it, and some kinds of orchids. Baskets for hanging plants are sometimes thickly lined with it before putting the plants in position. Mould Scuttle. All kinds of carriers are desirable and necessary for garden use ; and for carrying sifted mould from one place to another, either for potting or for lightening or altering the character of soil in a spot in which it is desired to place any particular plant, and which cannot be approached by the wheelbarrow, there is nothing more | Mulberry. See Medlars. handy than a wooden box — whether round or square, it matters little, that is to say, whether it be a box or a pail — with a piece of strong wooden hoop nailed across it to form a handle. This contrivance is handy, and all the more so because it is shallow, and the earth, if necessary, easily taken out with a trowel. It will suit many an amateur who is anxious to help himself, but in these times, when galvanised iron pails are sold at such a low rate, some will prefer to buy and utilise these as mould scuttles, instead of putting a handle to a box to fit it to serve as one. The ends of the hoop should be turned under the bottom of the box and nailed to it. Mowing Machine, When to use. A scythe works better in the morning when the dew is on the grass, or^ •when it has been wetted by a slight shower of rain, so when mowing is effected by means of the scythe it is better to get the work done early in the morning. The mowing machine, which works on an entirely different principle, acts more smoothly and pleasantly when the grass is dry, and may therefore be used even at midday, when the sun is at its hottest. Neglected lawns that it is sought to bring into better order, should first be cut with the scythe early in the morning, and run over with the mowing machine later in the day. With some machines it is said that any kind of grass can be cut, whether long or short, but with the generality of machines it is better to deal with short grass than with long. To produce a soft elastic velvet- like surface of fine short, close grass, a lawn should be run over with the machine at least once a week. Mowing Machines. See Lawn Mowers. MULCHING. 323 MUSHROOMS. Mulching. This operation consists in spreading a layer of stable dung litter, decaying leaves, and other materials over the roots of trees or plants, especially those which have been recently transplanted, and in times of MUSHROOMS. drought watering through it. After a time the material used, whatever it may be, may be forked into the soil. The term " mulch- ing " may be understood to apply to cover- ing the external surface of the ground with any material, whether for the purpose of enrichment of the soil and the consequent stimulation of the roots below, or as a means of intervening between the ground and the drying action .of the sun or wind, and thus keeping the soil moist and pro- tecting the roots. Every newly planted tree should have a mulching of some soxt spread around it. Mushrooms. Mushrooms may easily be had at any season of the year by adopting an artificial i process, and spawning, with artificial spawn, | which may be obtained in cakes from any ' nurseryman, a bed made after the following manner : — The best situation for the arti- ! ficial growth of mushrooms is a cellar or placed | fungi. The antechamber or passage to : an ice-house is an excellent place for a mushroom bed, and is frequently made use of for this purpose : any shed, however, ! whether underground or not, may be made available ; and, indeed, with a little more : care, mushrooms may be grown in the open j air, without any roof to cover them at all ; but a cellar or underground hole has a decided preference. The foundation of the bed must be well-rotted manure from the horse-yard, which has been sweetened by being turned over two or three times : i it may have a little good loam mixed with I it, in the proportion of about from two to ! four barrows of loam to twelve of manure. ! The bed, which should never be carried | above 2 feet in height, is best made on 1 a gentle slope, and the manure should be well and firmly beaten down with a spade. ; When the heat has fallen to about 75°, the spawn may be put in. This artificial spawn, which is usually made up in cakes, must be broken up into pieces about 2 inches square, and placed all over the bed, upon the surface of the manure, about 10 or 12 ! inches apart. A covering of i inch, or i£ inches, of good garden loam is then to be MUSHROOMS ON SHELVES IN SHED OK CELLAR. all over the bed, and the surface underground tool-house, or any other place again beaten firm with a spade. The whole where the atmosphere is of that close, ; must then be covered well over with straw damp, foggy character which is always so | or other material, to exclude all light. The peculiarly favourable to the growth of \ growth of the mushrooms will, of course, MUSHROOMS. 324 MUSTARD. depend somewhat on the state of the at- Kaosphere ; but in a temperature of 45° to 55° they will usually begin to appear in about six weeks. Little or no water should be given to the bed until the mushrooms Degin to come up, as its own moisture and heat ought to be sufficient to start the spawn ; but as soon as mushrooms appear, a plentiful supply of water may be given, and it will be found that a little common salt, or, better still, saltpetre, will have a great effect upon the crop. It is essential that the surface of the bed be kept quite dark. If the bed be made in the open air, it may be necessary, after a time, to give to the spawn a fresh start, by placing a lining of hot manure around it ; but on all occasions great care must be taken that the heat of the bed is not so excessive as to burn up the spawn. This, however, can never happen at a temperature of 75°; and when a bed is above this, no spawn should ever be inserted. Much has been said about letting the bed all but cool before spawning : it is better, perhaps, to choose a high rather than low temperature, because the spawn sets to work more freely and rapidly, and the mushrooms come up more uniformly over the bed. The process of spawning has been already described. It is not advisable to case the bed (that is, putting a case of good fresh loamy soil of about 2 or 3 inches in thickness all over it) immediately after spawning ; but cover thinly with straw for a day or two, or till the spawn just begins to take hold of the dung; then case it, beating the soil firmly, and, lastly, put on straw enough to exclude the light ; and as the weather and the bed cool, increase the covering and add garden mats. In making mushroom beds, much depends on the quality of the spawn. Good spawn, which ought to be procured at all nurseries, &c., is full of fine downy-looking threads, and smells exactly like mushrooms ; it is some- times found in plenty in heaps of old manure that have been several years without being disturbed. Never use old spawn ; if you do, you will, in all probability be dis- appointed in the crop. Fresh spawn from a large grower is always the best and most reliable. Mustard. If a supply is required in winter, or when the weather is too cold for the seed to vegetate out of doors, sow in shallow boxes or pans, placing these in a warm house or MYRTLE (MVKTUS COMMUNIS). pit. During the heat of summer a shady border will be the most suitable situation. Make the surface of the soil fine, level, and smooth, then water it and sow the seed very thickly. Press it gently into the soil, but avoid covering it with soil, else the earth and sand will adhere to the leaves and be with difficulty removed by washing. Ex- clude the sun's rays, and keep the seeds moist by coverings ; but these mu-t be removed as sopn as the seeds have fairly MYRTLE. 325 MYRTLE. germinated. To furnish a regular supply, sow at intervals of a few days, and never allow the plants to get too old before being cut for use. Myrtle (not. ord. Myrta'cese). A most desirable shrub for the greenhouse or conservatory, being an evergreen with dark glossy green ovate or lanceolate leaves and bearing a pretty white blossom. It is sufficiently hardy to grow and thrive out of doors, especially in tke south of Devon and to the westward in Cornwall and the Scilly Isles. It requires plenty of water, and, when grown under glass, the leaves should be frequently syringed. It is propagated by means of cuttings, which readily take root j when placed in light loamy soil, mixed i with sand and leaf mould and put under glass. There are many species, but the best known is Myrtus comrnunis, the j Common Myrtle, of which there are two j well-known varieties, one with small narrow leaves, and the other with larger and broader leaves. The leaves exhale a fragrant odourf especially when crushed. CANTALOUP MELON AILING. This is a difficult ope- ration, for nailing is no ornament, and the less it shows itself the better. The gardener's skill must be exerted to conceal his nails and shreds as much as possible. Cloth list or shreds of old cloth -are generally used ; but strips of leather or black tape are preferred by some, under the supposition that they not only have a neater appearance, but afford less harbour for insects. Fruit-trees should be nailed close on to the wall, but ornamental shrubs, &c., should be merely fastened in for the sake of support. Name Sticks. These are identical with number sticks " ' Come, arouse ye, Narcissus Embrace us and kiss us,' The wood nymphs all cry to the beautiful boy, As with gestures alluring-, AVith language assuring-, They strive to entice him f om sorrow to joy. But of self so enamoured, So wildly englainonred In glassy pool mirrored, all deaf to love's claim He views his reflection. In deepest dejection Till changed to the flower that stil bears his name." ANON. (see Number Sticks], and are prepared for use in precisely the same manner. The only difference between the number stick and the name stick is that the former bears a number only and the latter the name of the plant to which it is affixed. Name sticks are used rather within doors in pots than out of doors. In all cases it should be sought to render the name as indelible as possible. This may be done by rubbing the stick with white lead, and by writing on the surface thus produced with a lead pencil. An excellent kind of pencil for this purpose is Woolff's Indelible Pencil, which is prepared especially for this purpose, and sold by all nurserymen at 2d. each. 336 Narcis'sus (not. ord. Amaryllid'ese). This genus is a very extensive one, env NARCISSUS. 327 NASTURTIUM. bracing Jonquils (Narcissus Jonquilla) double and single, the Polyanthus Nar- cissus (N. Tazetta) in its numerous varieties, the Hooped Petticoat (N. bulbocodium}, the Poet's Narcissus (N. poeticus], and many others. The Double Roman Narcissus (N. Tazetta Romanus), planted early in September, will bloom indoors before Christmas, while the Paper "SVhite (N. T. papyraceus}) combined with the other varieties for indoor culture, if planted in succession from the 1st September to the 3 1st December, will maintain a rich floral display till the end of April. Culture indoors. — This is similar to that recommended for the hyacinth. The bulbs POETS NARCISSUS— DOUBLE VARIETY. of the Polyanthus Narcissus being large, a 5-inch pot will be needed for one bulb, and a 6-inch pot for three ; a group of six in an 8-inch pot will produce an exceedingly beautiful effect. Culture out of doors. — This is exactly the same as that for the hyacinth, except that the crown of the bulb should be at least 5 inches under the surface, and for winter protection should be covered with about I inch of newly dropped leaves, or 3 inches of cocoa- fibre. September is the time for sowing seed, in order to obtain new varieties. For the mode of proceeding we cannot do better than quote the words of Mr. Leeds, of Manchester, who was one of the most successful amateur cultivators 01 tne nar- cissus. Mr. Leeds says: **To obtain good varieties, it is needful, the previous season, to plant the root3 of some of each kind in pots, and to bring them into the greenhouse in spring to flower, so as to obtain pollen of the late-flowering kinds to cross with those which otherwise would have passed away before these were in flower. With me the plants always seed best in the open ground. When the seed- vessels begin to swell, the flower-stems should be carefully tied up, and watched until the seeds turn black. I do not wait until the seed-vessels burst, as many seeds in that case fall to the ground, and are lost, but take them off when mature, with a portion of the stem, which I insert in the earth in a seed- pot, or pan, provided for their reception. I place them in a north aspect, and the seeds, in due season, are shed as it were, naturally, into the pot of earth. I allow the seeds to harden for a month on the surface before covering them half an inch deep with sandy soil. The soil should be two-thirds pure loam and one- third sharp sand ; the drainage composed of rough turfy soil. In October, I plunge the seed- pots in a cold frame facing the south, and the young plants begin to appear in December and throughout the winter, according to their kinds and the mildness of the -weather. It is needful, in their earliest stage, to look weH after slugs and snails." Nastur'tium (nat. ord. Tropseola'cese). The nasturtium proper belongs to an altogether different order, namely, the CruciferiZy and includes the watercress ; but the name is so generally applied, though wrongly, to the varieties of Tro- pseolum grown in gardens, that the error is continued here in the interest of the NECTARINES. 328 NEPENTHES. readers. Many are well known as climbers that will quickly cover any fence or trellis, and exhibit flowers of every colour, from the palest straw colour through orange and red to the deepest velvety brown. The dwarf improved varieties of nasturtium are amongst the most useful of garden flowers 1MVAKK NASTUKTIUM— "TOM THUMB " VARIETY. for bedding, massing, or ribboning, and may be said to take rank with the geranium, verbena, and calceolaria ; their close, com- pact growth, rich-coloured flowers, and the freedom with which they bloom, all com- bining to place them among first-class bed- ding plants. The scarlet, yellow, and spotted Tom Thumb are distinguished favourites, as are also many others, whose names will be found in the price lists of the seedsmen. The seeds when green are often used in pickling, affording an agreeable pungent addition to the contents of the pickle-jar. Some, too, use them as a substitute for capers. Nectarines. Nectarines should be pruned in Feb- ruary, grafted in March. Protect from frost, and syringe with weak tobacco water if green fly appears. Stop leading shoots in May, and thin thickly-set fruit as soon as stoned. The following are excellent varieties of this delicious fruit :-*-. Nemo'phila (nut. onl. Hydrophylla'- cese). This is perhaps the most charming and i generally useful genus of dwarf-growing j hardy annuals. All the varieties have a neat, compact, and uniform habit of growth, with shades and colours the most strikingly beautiful, so that ribboned, sown in circles, or arranged in any style which the fancy may suggest, the effect is pleasing and very striking. Nemophila insignis, sky blue with white eye, N. inaculala^ with white flowers blotched with purple at the apex of the petal, and N. phacelioides, also blue with a white eye, are very distinct varieties ; the last-named is a beautiful hardy perennial, and the second is more robust in growth, and has larger flowers than the other varieties. There are many varieties of the first. They all grow well from cuttings and seeds. Nepen'thes (not. ord. Nepentha'ceae). The curious plants of this class are well known under the general name of Pitcher CLIMBING NASTUKTIUM. i. Downton. 2. Elruge. 3. Hardwicke. 4. Hunt's Tawny. 5. Lord Napier. 6. PitmastonOrange. 7 Rivers' White. 8 Violette Hative. 9 Spencer. 10 Prince of Wales, ii Pine Apple. 12 Victoria. Plants. Many very choice and beautiful varieties have been introduced of late years. The following are some of the most choice : NERINE SARNIENSIS. 329 NETTING, WIRE. — Nepenthes distillatoria> with bright light green leaves, very graceful pitchers, mode- rate sized, of a dark green colour, mottled. Another variety of this species, N. d. rubra, has dark crimson pitchers. N. phyllam- phora is a robust species, producing bright green pitchers in great abundance. N. Rafflesiana, is a fine grower, with pitchers of greenish yellow, marked and mottled with brown. Nerine Sarniensis. Lily. See Guernsey (nat. ord. Apocyna'cese). The best known of this class is Nerium oleander^ the Common Oleander, which NBMOPHILA MACULATA. usually requires a greenhouse in England, but which flowers beautifully out of doors in Southern Europe. There are many varieties, but the best known are confined to two, which bea the one a pink and the other a white flower, slightly double. All the oleanders require a mixture of equal parts of peat, lonm, and sand. They are very subject to brown scale, and the tough lanceolate leaves, which grow in a whorl, three in number, frequently require spong- ing. The blossoms and even the wood of the oleander are poisonous. The plants require plenty of water, which should only be withheld for a short time after they have done flowering. The best way of propa- gating the oleander is to place cuttings of well-ripened shoots in bottles of water, hung up where the sun's rays may fall on them. The cuttings throw out roots in the water, and when sufficiently well rooted they must be potted in light soil. Nertera {nat. ord. Rubia'cea). A genus of very dwarf plants that creep along the surface of the ground and root as they run, having a quantity of small green ovate leaves and tiny greenish flowers, which produce fruit in the form of a small orange-red berry, which has obtained the Nertera depressa (the only species grown in this country) the name of the Bead Plant. Propagated by seeds, or, more surely, by divisions of the root. The plants should be grown in pots, or shallow pans, for which they are well suited, and should be freely watered. Netting. Netting is extremely useful for many gardening purposes, to protect blossom from frost and fruit from birds. It may also, with very good etfect, be suspended beneath both wall and standard trees to catch any falling fruit. Netting of a fine mesh may be used successfully to keep off the attacks of wasps and flies. Old fish- netting mended up can be purchased at id. per yard. Netting, Wire. A most useful appliance for garden work is to be found in wire netting, which is machine made and supplied in various sizes of mesh and strength of wire according to the purpose for which it is to be used. The form of mesh is hexagonal in all cases, from the smallest to the largest. The following table gives the prices of this netting per yard in rolls of 50 yards in length, and in various sizes of mesh ; but it must be borne in mind that if a less NICOTIANA. 330 NORTH BORDERS. quantity than 50 yards is required, the price per yard is increased one halfpenny. So this must be taken into account when buying or ordering. WIDTH OF MESH. WIDTH OF NETTING. 3 inch. i inch. ij inch. 2 inches s. d s. d. j. d. . rf. 18 inches o 6 o 4 0 2} 24 .. o 8 ° Ii o 3 2 0 10 o 6$ o 4 2i 36 " I 0 o 7* o 43 3 43 „ i 4 o to o 6 4 The first use of this netting is as a protec- tion to flower beds, seed beds, &c., from TYPE OF NICOTIANA. the inroads of cats, £c., or for light fencing for separating one part of a garden from another. When used in this way, iron stakes or standards are necessary as sup- ports, unless wooden stakes be used, along which the wire may be stretched by the aid of tenter hooks or small staples. Nicotiana (nat. ord. Solana'ceae). A genus of plants under which are placed all species of tobacco plants. The sort grown in our gardens and greenhouses is Nicotiana affinis, a plant with blossoms tubular in shape and terminating in five pointed segments turning outwards from the tube. The blossoms are of a greenish hue on the exterior, and exhale a delicious odour in the evening. The plants are raised from seeds sown in gentle heat early in the year, say in February, and may be placed out in the open ground in June, or potted for the decoration and perfume of the greenhouse or conservatory. Although treated as annuals, they are perennials ; and after they are cut off by the first frost, if the roots remaining in the ground are pro- tected by a covering of ashes, they will come up again year after year. There could not be a better plant for the adorn- ment of the conservatory. Noisette Roses. See Roses, Noisette. North Borders. A border fronting north in a garden is generally much undervalued. In the flower garden a wall facing north, if it happens to exist, is frequently looked upon as a nuisance, and covered with ivy ; in the kitchen garden it is only more profit- ably occupied by Morello cherries and red currants, while, in both cases, the border is kept as shallow as possible, and turned to little or no account. Many plants and shrubs, however, will flourish upon a north border and against a north wall, and show themselves hardy there, which in any other situation would not outlive a winter's frost. In the flower garden let the north wall have a good deep border of bog, and against the wall all the hardy sorts of camellias will flourish and blossom freely. The green and the black tea-plant also, not having their bark exposed to the scorching sun of summer, will survive our severest winters in such a situation. Rhododen- drons will also do veil, and so will chry- santhemums. NUMBER STICKS. 331 NUMBER TALLIES OP METAL. Number Sticks. Supposing that a register of plants, varieties of plants, trees, &c, is made and kept, it is desirable to consider here by what means of a simple character sticks bearing numbers corresponding to the register may be prepared, so that they may be placed close to the plants, &c., which the numbers indicate. It may be said at once that number sticks suitable for the purpose may be bought of the nurserymen in bundles of 100 each, with the face of each rubbed over with white paint, at from 6&*» From Orient's glowing gates till veiled in Hesper's night." ANON. Quercus i Q. ilex being the common ever- green oak. When standing singly on a lawn or in a park, Q. Fulhamensis, the Fulham oak, is very imposing ; and so also is Q. Luccombiana, the Luccombe oak, which is of the same character. The acorns of each of these are very handsome, but in some situations these choice varieties do not fruit freely. Oak Pests. There are many insects that haunt and infest the oak, and at times do consider- able damage to these monarchs of the British forests. Among these may be named the caterpillar of the goat-moth, which bores into the wood, as it does into the willow. The larvae of the lackey- moth and a small moth known as 334 CENOTHERA. 335 ONIONS. viridana work much harm to the leaves, and the grubs of the cockchafer to the roots. Oak-galls and oak-apples are excrescences produced by gall-flies. (Enoth'era ( «#/. ord. Onagra'cise). A genus of most useful and beautiful plants, for beds, borders, edgings, or rock- UiNOTHERA LAMAKCKIANA. work. All the species are free- flowering, and most of them perennials. The most remarkable of the perennial kinds are CEnothera Lamarckiana, CE. macrocarpa, CE. taraxacifolia alba, CE. macrantha grandiflora, CE. biennis, and CE. prostrala. Most of these, if sown early, flower the first year. Of the annual varieties the best are CE. Druinniondinana, CE. bistorta Vdtckii, and CE. rosea. All succeed in good rich soil, and grow well from seed. Oleander. See Nerium. One-Shift System. When blossom is desired it is better to shift a young plant from a 3 to a 5-inch pot, then to a y-inch pot, and so on, as plants as a rule blossom more freely in a smaller pot than in a larger one. But when a fine specimen is wished for, regard being had rather to growth than bloom, it is better to adopt the one-shift system — that is to say, to remove the plant at once from a small pot into one of considerable size. Onions. Preparation of the Soil. — A rather strong, deep, and rich loamy soil is most suitable for this crop : where very large bulbs are* desired, soil of this character is indispen- sable. Onions grown in a strong soil are much less liable to be attacked by the fly or maggot than in light, dry, sandy soils. The ground should be heavily dressed with rich well-rotted manure, trenched deeply, and ridged up early in autumn. If the soil is light and sandy, cow manure will be most suitable. Time and Mode of Sowing. — The main crop should be sown as early as the ground may be in working condition, and whether this occurs in February or early in March, a favourable opportunity for putting in the seed should not be suffered to pass. After levelling down the ridges, if the soil is light, tread the ground regularly and closely over, then rake and well pulverise the surface, making it as fine as possible. Set out the ground in 4 feet beds, with alleys I foot wide be- tween ; dra^y drills £ inch to i inch deep, 6 inches from each alley, and 9 inches apart. Sow the seeds thinly and regularly, and cover with the soil displaced in ma- king the drills, or, where this is too lumpy, with other fine soil. A sowing should also be made about the middle of August, to furnish a supply of young onions during winter, and bulbs for use in summer before the main crop is ready. Where small bulbs, such as are TYPE OF ONION— " GIANT KOCCA." ONIONS. 336 ONION POTATO. used for pickling, are required, sow the i sound longer by this than by any other Silver-skinned thickly early in May, upon • method. the poorest soil, and in the driest situation at command, and thin out very sparingly. After-management. — The ground must be kept dear of weeds by frequent hoeings, and the plants thinned early, to from 6 to '9 inches apart. In dry, warm situations, strong manure water may be given freely during the summer ; but where there is WHITE GLOlJli ONION. any danger of the crop running to "thick necks," or not forming bulbs, watering should not be practised, except when the weather is very warm and dry, and then not after July. Towards the end of September the bulbs should be well formed, and the tops show indications of ripening ; where this is not the case, go over the crops, bending or breaking them down with the back of a wooden rake, and repeat this as often as may be necessary to check the growth of the tops effectually. As soon as the bulbs seem to be properly matured, which will be known by the decay of the leaves, &c. , take them up, spread them in an airy shed, or sunny situation in the open air, until thoroughly dried, and then store in a dry, cool place till wanted for use. The Lancashire method of wintering onions is, perhaps, the best. There they tie up the bulbs in what are called ropes, and hang them on an outside wall, not facing the sun, and protect them from wet by placing a board against the wall overhead. They keep There are many varieties of the onion, whose special names may be ascertained on reference to the seedmen's price lists and catalogues. The following, however, are useful sorts and may be recommended : — White Spanish, — the mildest in flavour, and most useful for main crop. Deptford, or Strasburgh, — similar to the above, but brown ; a useful and good-keeping variety. Brown Globe,— a hardy useful kind. New White Globe, -a mild-flavoured, good- keeping variety. Giant Madeira, — grows to a great size, and particularly mild-flavoured. Blood- Red, — a very useful hardy kind. James's Keeping,— keeps longer than any other variety. Silver-skinned,— the best for pickling. Tripoli Italian Red, — the best variety for autumn sowing. Tripoli Large Globe, — very fine for autumn sowing. ^Vhite Lisbon, — the variety sown in autumn by market gardeners for spring onions. Onion Fly (Anthomyia ceparum). A fly of a grey colour whose grub or larva does much damage where it occurs to the onion, causing the young plants to turn yellow and the leaves to fall to the ground. It affects onions from May to September, and the best way to get rid of TRIPOLI LARGE GLOBE ONION. the pest is said to be found in sprinkling gas lime plentifully on the earth between the rows of onions. Onion, Potato. This onion, which, from its growth and ONION SEED. ORANGE-TREE. manner of increase, is sometimes called the " underground " onion, is a valuable vege- table, because it furnishes sound, tender, and full-sized bulbs at midsummer, three months before the ordinary onion crop is harvested. It requires a well-worked, moderately rich soil. The bulbs may be planted in warm, sheltered situations, such as the south of Devon, in midwinter ; but in colder parts the planting must be de- ferred until late winter or early spring ; yet the earlier it can be effected the better. The bulbs should be set in rows from 12 to 15 inches apart, and from 12 to 15 inches apart also in the rows. Each bulb will throw out a number of offsets all round it, which grow and develop into full-sized bulbs, which are taken up and dried when ready for pulling, and then stored for use and for future propagation. Onion Seed, How to Obtain. To procure onion seed, plant some good, sound, full-grown onions in an open situa- tion in March, placing them 6 inches deep and 15 apart. As they grow, protect the stems, which are very brittle, by means of a stake driven into the ground at each end of the rows, and strings passed each side of the stems and fastened firmly to the stakes. This should be done in time to prevent any getting broken, which would reduce the crop. Onion Tree. The mode of culture to be followed for this onion is the same as that for the potato onion, from which it differs chiefly in its mode of reproduction, the offshoots being produced in the form of bulblets at the end of what would be the flower stalk in ordinary onions. Onions, Useful Dressing for. If some common washing soda be crushed and sprinkled over an onion bed just before rain, and the bed be watered after the soda has been scattered on it, the effect on the leaves will be perceptible very shortly after in increase of size, and the production of a beautiful bloom on them Opun'tia (««/. ord. Cacta'cese). This is the general name of a genus of greenhouse evergreen succulents, of which there are many species, including Opuntia ficus Indica, otherwise known as the Indian Fig. They are ornamental and interesting greenhouse shrubs, with edible fruit, and succeed best in sandy loam with an equal quantity of peat, and plenty of cow dung- lime rubbish, and charcoal mixed with it. Orach. A vegetable used in the same manner a > spinach, but by no means equal to it as an article of vegetable; food. Sow in March and September in open ground, and in a rich, moist soil in which it thrives best. The leaves should be gathered and eaten when quite young. Orange and Lemon. As far as the cultivation of orange and lemon-trees goes, all that need be said about it is that those who are desirous of possessing specimens should sow the pips in pots filled with light rich soil, and sub- jected to brick-bottom heat. The pots ORCHARDS. 338 ORCHARDS. should further be kept under glass, and where the seeds have sprung up the plants should be kept in an atmosphere both close and warm. When about from 12 to 1 8 inches in height, the seedlings must be grafted or budded with grafts or buds from an established flowering and fruiting tree. Orchards. The spot selected for an orchard should be entirely sheltered from the north and north-east, and should have a gentle inclination, and full exposure to the south. The best soil is a good loam, four feet in depth, resting upon chalk, thoroughly drained by tiles inserted six inches beneath the chalk-level, the tiles being covered over to that depth with broken stones. The permanent trees, which, if it is intended to lay the orchard down in grass, must be standards and half-standards, with from 4 to 6 feet of clear stem, should be planted in rows, from 30 to 40 feet apart, and in what is termed the quincunx style, thus :— The north or coldest side of the orchard should be planted with walnuts, cherries, medlars, chestnuts, &c., to provide shelter for the others. These might be succeeded by the hardiest plums and apples, to be followed by the tender pears on the south or warmest side. If a gradation of height were also followed, the shelter provided would be more efficient, and the general effect more pleasing. Filberts, mulberries, and service-trees may also be introduced. But these temporary trees should be inserted as nurses between the permanent trees. Firm -growing varieties that come early into bearing should be chosen for the purpose, and they will not only encourage the growth of the permanent trees, but pay their own cost a dozen times over before they require removal. They must, how- ever, be carefully watched, lest they weaken the energy or destroy the symmetry of the permanent trees. The rows should run east and west. Though, from the introduction of dwarf trees, upon which, in a good kitchen garden, as much fruit may be grown as will be required for the consumption of an ordinary family, an orchard is not so necessary now as it was some years ago, still this useful appendage of the country house should not be wholly neglected. A piece of pasture where the soil is good may be very profitably employed as an orchard. It will yield both a crop of fruit and a crop of grass, and if the former be not required for consumption, there is at all times a ready sale for it. Apples, pears, and cherries are the fruits properly culti- vated in orchards ; but plums, walnuts, and filberts are not unfrequently considered as orchard fruit, and in cases where there is only one orchard, all these fruits may, with advantage, be included in it. Upon the nature of the site and soil best suited for an orchard, Abercrombie observes, "Land sloping to the east or south is better than a level ; a sheltered hollow, not liable to floods, is better than an upland with the same aspect, and yet a gentle rising, backed by sufficient shelter, or the base of a hill, is eligible. A good loam, in which the constituents of a good soil predominate over those of a hot one, suits most fruit-trees ; the subsoil should be dry, and the depth of mould thirty inches or three feet. Before planting, drain, if necessary ; trench to the depth of two feet, manure according to the defects of the soil, and give a winter and summer fallow ; or cultivate the site for a year or two as a kitchen garden, so that it may be deeply dug and receive a good annual dressing." ORCHARDS. 339 ORCHARDS. In forming an orchard, Dr. Lindley recom- mends the early transplanting of the different trees. " They cannot," he says, " be removed from the nursery too soon after the wood has become ripe and the leaves have fallen off, for between this time and the winter many of them will make fresh roots, and be prepared to push forth their young shoots with more vigour in the spring than those whose transplanting has been deferred to a late period of the season." All young trees should be care- fully staked and protected from the wind, and, if a dry spring should succeed the autumn of their planting, they will require to be watered, or, what is better, to have manure laid round their roots and to be watered through it. Pruning and training are necessary ; but, as a general rule, the knife should be avoided, if it is possible to bring the tree into a good shape without it. Pear-trees will thrive in a lighter soil than apples, and they are generally more hardy, and bear the wind better. In a good soil, the distance at which trees should stand from each other is from twenty-five to thirty feet ; if all free-growing varieties are planted, it may perhaps be desirable to give from thirty to forty feet between them, and in all cases the quincunx mode, as already stated, is the best. In selecting apples and pears for plant- ing, and, indeed, all fruits that admit of sorts, it is of the greatest importance to take into consideration not only soil but climate. Very little good is gained by selecting the best varieties if they, or any of them, are not suited to the locality. Disappointment too often follows want of judgment in this respect. Whoever intends to plant an orchard, especially of apples and pears, should ascertain, in the first instance, what sorts flourish best in his part of the country. He should then select the best of these, and introduce such other sorts as, from their resemblance to them, may seem likely to answer. The following lists are taken from the catalogue of Messrs, George Bunyard & Co, Pomologists, Maid- stone. The sorts are undoubtedly all good, and the descriptions accurate ; but intending buyers are advised to tell the grower what kind of soil the trees are to be planted in, and leave it to him to make a selection of fitting sorts, as it must not be assumed that every kind of apple is equally well adapted to every locality. TWENTY-FOUR ORCHARD APPLES. K. kitchen purposes ; T. table. 1. Alfriston, K.,— large, round, skin light orange next the sun, greenish-yellow in the shade ; flesh yellowish, crisp, sharply acid; November to March. A fruitful variety and showy grower. 2. Bedfordshire Foundling, K.t T.,— very large, pale green when ripe; flesh yellowish, acid. November to December. A handsome apple, of Blenheim Orange style and flavour. 3. Bismarck, /T.,— large, possesses the weight and texture of a Wellington, with a bronzy red cheek. A valuable and distinct variety, proving to be a remarkably free bearer, and a hardy, vigorous grower. October to January. 4. Blenheim Orange, /f., T.,— very large, ovate, yellowish, red next the sun ; flesh yellow, sugary. November to June. 5. Bramley's Seedling, K., T.— large fine orchard fruit, making a vigorous tree. A valu- able, heavy, late keeper, free and constant bearer, flat, with dull red cheek, first-rate, brisk acid flavour. December to April. 6. Cox's Orange Pippin, r.,— medium, ot Ribston flavour, great bearer, the finest dessert apple, good habit, excellent as garden tree, prefers a warm, rich soil. November to January. 7. Devonshire Quarrenden, T.,— this is the famous "sack apple" of the western counties. Medium size, deep crimson ; flesh greenish-white, often streaked or flushed with crimson, juicy, subacid. August. 8. Dumelow's Seedling. fC.,— large, round, yellow and light red; flesh yellow, first-rate. November to March. Also known as Wellington and Normanton Wonder. g. Ecklinville Seedling, K.,— large and a free bearer; one of the best Codlins for garden culture, succeeding in all forms. September to October. 10. Fearn's Pippin, T.,— full medium size, round, and handsome, greenish yellow, russety, and bright red ; flesh greenish-white, sweet, and rich-flavoured. February to March. n. Gascoyne's Scarlet Seedling, K., T.,— large ; a distinct red-cheeked apple, extremely handsome, a great bearer, and a healthy, free grower. Fruit of agreeable flavour. November to February. Called also Glory of England. ORCHARDS. 340 ORCHARDS. 12. Grenadier, fC.t — very large, handsome yellow fruit, a regular cropper, and by far the finest Coiilin out. Good in any form for garden or orchard. September to October. 13. Hawthornden, New, K.,— large, ovate, yellowish-green, reddish blush next the sun; flesh white, juicy, almost good enough for dessert. This never fails to give a large crop ; it is not a strong grower. November to December. 14. Kerry Pippin, T., — small, pale yellow, streaked with red ; flesh yellow, firm, juicy, and sweet. First-rate in every respect. Sep- tember to November. 15. Lady Henniker, /if., T., — large, good and robust grower and bearer, very fine flavour, keeps well, hardy and suitable tor exposed places. December to February. 16. Lady Sudeley, T., — large dessert. Fruit of wonderful rich spicy flavour and aroma, beauti- fully striped with crimson when ripe. August to September. Called a\so/acol>'s Strawberry. 17. Lord Grosvenor, K.t — very large free-bearing Codlin, finest early apple, robust grower with splendid foliage. One of the best early kinds grown. August to September. 18. Melon, A'., — large, lemon-yellow and light crimson ; flesh white, tender, juicy, vinous, per- fumed. One of the best American apples, gene- rally fruitful. December to March. 19. Nonpareil, Old, T., — small, greenish-yellow, one of the hardiest ; pale russet and brownish- red ; flesh tender, juicy, rich. January to March. 20. Northern Greening, K., — medium, dull- freen, brownish-red ; flesh greenish, subacid. irst-rate. November to March. 21. Red Juneating, '/'., — medium, one of the best early apples for table; rich aroma, forms fertile garden tree. August. 22. Ribston Pippin, 71., — medium, one of the most delicious apples grown as regards flavour. Not suitable for orchards, but requires a warm soil and aspect in a garden. November to January. 23. Sturmer Pippin, fC., T., — medium, yellowish- green and brownish-red ; flesh yellow, firm, sugary, and rich. February to June. 24. Worcester Pearmain, T., — large, handsome greenish-yellow and deep red ; flesh juicy, sweet, and brisk-flavoured. September. For very exposed situations on the east coast and north of the island the following varieties are recommended : Kitchen.. — Grenadier, Hawthornden, Keswiclc Cod- lin, Manx Codlin, High Canons, Tower of Glamis, Wellington. Table. — Devonshire Quarrenden, Early Julian or Fair Lady, Kerry Pippin, Peasgpod's Non- such, Lady Henniker, Winter Queening. From the same excellent authority the following list and description of pears suit- able for orchard cultivation. i. Alexandra Lambre,— medium size, melting, rich, and exquisite ; prolific bush. November. 2. Bergamotted'Esperen,— medium, late, melt- ing. Forms a handsome prolific pyramid or bush ; but in wet or cold climates it requires a wall. January to April. 3. Beurre, Brown, — large and excellent. October. 4. Beurre Clairgeau,— very large and handsome, not of first-rate quality, but passable when gathered before it is quite ripe. A remarkably fertile fruit. October to November. 5. Beurr6 d'Arenberg, — medium, delicious, melt- ing ; forms a handsome prolific pyramid ; requires a warm situation. November. 6. Beurre d'Amanlis, — very large, melting; one of the best autumn pears, not particular as to soil. September. 7. Beurr6 Ranee,— large, late, melting, insipid from a wall ; but on the quince, in the open grounds, its flavour is quite exquisite. Requires double working, and forms a better bush than a pyramid. December to March. 8. Beurre Easter, — Large, melting, perfumed, insipid from a wall; best on the quince, and forms a beautiful bush. January to March. 9. Bon Chretien (Williams's),— large, perfumed, melting ; should be gathered before it is ripe. September. 10. Chaumontel, — large, well known, melting. November. This is the pear which grows so fine in Jersey and Guernsey. it. Colman d' Etc, — small, prodigious cropper, makes a good standard, fruit juicy and of honied sweetness. September. 12. Comte de Lamy, — medium ; one of our most delicious autumn gears. October to November. 13. Doyenne d' Etc, — very small, the earliest pear to ripen, refreshing and very pretty, bears freely in any form, best gathered a few days before it is >oyenne du Cornice,— large, splendid, very ripe. July. 14. Doyenne au Cornice, — large, handsome, of finest possible flavour; ranks as the most delicious pear grown. November to December. 15. Duchesse d'Angouleme, — very large and handsome, insipid from a wall ; forms a fine pyramid. October or November. i6: Jargonelle, — large, the best fruit of its season ; is improved in flavour if gathered before it readily parts from the tree. Good on walls or as an open standard. August. 17. Josephine de Malines,— medium size, deli- cious melting pear, aromatic. On the hawthorn it forms a spreading, fruitful tree; succeeds well on the quince, but does not form a handsome pyramid ; as a bush or espalier it is very prolific. February to April. 18. Louise Bonne of Jersey, — large. When cultivated on the quince stock, this is the most beautiful, as well as the most delicious, melting pear of the season. October. 19. Marie Louise, — large, melting, excellent ; on the pear it forms a prolific pyramid, on the quince, double-worked, a prolific bush. October, November. 20. Monarch (Knight's). — medium, excellent; forms a handsome pyramid on the pear. Deserves a wall, and may always be relied on. November to March. 21. Pitmaston Duchess, — very large, a grand golden yellow melting pear ; succeeds admirably as standard in pear soil. October, November. 22. Seckle,— small, highly-flavoured, melting • ORCHARDS. 34i ORCHARD HOUSE. bears profusely as the pyramid on the pear. October. *3- Triomphe de Vienne,— very large, russety, of rich flavour, a fine grower and free bearer, being a desirable variety of great excellence. September. 24. Winter Nelis,— small, roundish, buttery, and melting, rich and aromatic ; an abundant bearer, and a beautiful bush. November to January. The following pears are also suited to orchards and well worth growing : Aspasie Ancourt, Bellessime d'Hiver, Beurre de Capiaumont, Bishop's Thumb, Grosse Calebasse, Hacon's Incomparable, Marie Louise d' Uccle, Prince Napoleon, Passe Crasanne, Swan's Egg. There are several sorts of baking and stewing pears, but the best are, Catillac, Vicar of Winkfield, Veralum, or Black Jack, Gilogil, General Todleben, Orchard Baker, and Uvedale's St. Germain, for a wall. The following pears are best adapted for a cold climate : Alexandre Lambre, Gansel's late Bergamot, Beurre d' Amanlis, Williams's Bon Chretien, Calebasse d'Ete, Colmar d'Ete, Citron des Carmes, Hessle, Jargonelle, Louise Bonne of Jersey, and Thompson's Pear. As cherries and plums have been spoken of as orchard fruit, it may be well to give a small list of each for the guidance of those who are intending to plant an orchard. The earliest cherries are the Early Lyons, the Purple Guigne, and the Baumann's May. These are succeeded by the Early Rivers, the Elton, the May Duke, and Governor Wood. Next in order come the Kentish Bigarreau, Royal Duke, and Black Eagle; the Late Duke is the latest of sweet cherries, and with this may be named the Black Tartarian and Napoleon Bigar- reau. For cooking purposes there is the Kentish ; and for brandy, the Morella ; for drying, the Belle de Choisy, the Flemish, and the Kentish. Waterloo is a good cherry, ripening in July, so are Werder's j Black Heart, Adams' Bedford Prolific, and Black Turkey Heart. Of plums the varieties are infinite. Among the best may be classed, Arch- duke, Cox's Emperor. Coe's Golden Drop, Denniston's Superb, Denyer's Victoria, river's Early Prolific and Grand Duke, Old Greengage, Guthrie's Late Green, Jefferson's Yellow, Kirke's Blue, Magnum Bonum, Mitchelson's Large Black, New Orleans or Wilmot's Early, Oullin's Golden- gage, Reine Claude de Bavy, Rivers's Late, the Sultan, the Czar, Washington and Wye- dale. For the best varieties of filberts see under that head. Orchard House, Lean-to. Full instructions for building orchard houses are given here, because it is the cheapest kind of protective structure for fruit-growing without fear of losing ihe, crop, that an amateur can make. Mr. Rivers, the originator of orchard houses, describes, as a convenient form of house, a lean-to structure, 30 feet long and 12 feet 6 inches wide, made in the following simple manner : Six posts of yellow deal, 5 inches by 3 inches, or oak posts, 4 inches by 3 inches, and 9 feet 6 inches in length, are firmly fixed, and driven 2 feet into the ground, the lower ends being previously charred and coated with coal-tar, or boiled linseed oil thickened to the consistency of paint by mixing finely powdered coal-dust with it, which is said to be better than tar. This is the back line of posts. Six other posts, exactly similar, but only 5 feet long, are fixed also 2 feet in the ground, forming the front of the house — the one rising 3 feet and the other 7 feet 6 inches above the ground level. Two posts at each end occupy the centre, and form the door posts. On the six posts, both in back and front, a wall plate is nailed to receive the rafters, one of which springs ORCHARD HOUSE. 342 ORCHARD HOUSE. from each of the six front posts, resting on the corresponding back post. The rafters are 14 feet long. A 9-inch deal, 3 inches thick, will make four of them. On the upper side of each rafter j is nailed a slip of J-inch deal, l£ inch wide, which will leave J-inch on each -side as rebate to receive the glass. The rafters so prepared are fixed in their place to the wall plates by having a piece cut out at each end to correspond with the angle of the back and front plates. They are then firmly nailed, at back and front, by a strong spike nail, leaving a space between each and thickness of the board out of each, will receive the glass, and carry off the water. The placing the glass is a very simple process : a bedding of putty is first laid in the rebates, the wood having been previously painted, and then, be- ginning at the top, a plate of glass, 20 inches wide, is laid in the rebates, and fixed in its place by a brad driven into the rafter ; and so on till the whole is covered in : there are no laps, but the edges of the panes touch each other, the joints in the glass being what is termed open joints, which are rather advantageous than other- 6ECOND TERRACE OF BACK BORDER BACK BORDER CENTRAL - PASSAGE FRONT BORDER 10 FIG. I.— GROUND PLAN. 5CAIC OP 15 30 rafter of 5 feet, which is called a bay ; this is filled up by smaller rafters or sash bars of a size proportioned to their length and the use they are to be put to— vines trained to them requiring stronger bars. A piece of f -inch deal board, 6 inches wide, nailed along the top of each rafter, so as to be even with their upper edges, forms the ridge board, leaving a space between the board and the rafter to receive the upper end of the glass. A similar piece of inch deal, 6 inches wide, let into the rafters by sawing a piece corresponding to the width wise, if not too wide. The ends of the houses are fitted up to correspond with the roof, only that above the doorways a small sash is fitted in for ventilation. These sashes at each end, and the other provisions for ventilation to be mentioned presently, are said by Mr. Rivers to be quite sufficient ;- indeed, he pronounces the ventilation per- fect. Well-seasoned f-inch deal, planed and jointed, nailed outside the posts, forms the lower part of the house. In the front wall, sliding shutters, 3 feet by i foot, will afford ventilation to the ORCHARD HOUSE. 343 ORCHARD HOUSE. roof; and about 3 feet from the surface of the ground, two similar sliding shutters will ventilate the lower part of the house behind, and on a level with them. Venti- lation behind is further secured by shutters 2 feet 6 inches long, and running the whole length of the house under the wall plate ; below these shutters the space is rilled in with boarding, well painted. In summer, it is impossible to give too much air. The house is now complete, except the door, which must open inwards for obvious reasons, and may be half glass, or other- wise, at the proprietor's discretion. Within the house, a trench, 18 inches deep and 3 feet wide, is formed, to which considerable size, when the height of the building is taken into consideration: it may, in fact, on account of its wooden front, back, and ends, and its glass roof, be looked upon as a cucumber frame on a large scale. The diagrams are all drawn to scale, according to the scale of feet given below Fig. I. Beginning with this diagram, which represents the ground plan of th( orchard house, the dimensions adoptee are in accordance with those of the hous^ recommended by Mr. Rivers, and the rela- tive positions of the posts of the structure, the central passage running through it, the border in the front and the border at the back, with the raised terrace in the rear FIG. 2. — FRONT ELEVATION. two steps from the outside will lead. This leaves a platform or border on each side of 4 feet 9 inches ; the back border requires to be raised 1 8 inches above the original ground level, and Mr. Rivers suggests that it would be improved by a second terrace behind the first, 14 inches in height, sup- ported by a 4^-inch brick wall, so that the back row of trees need not be shaded while they are brought nearer to the glass. The nature, size, and appearance of the structure that has just been described will be rendered clearer to the ordinary reader by the diagrams that are given in Figs. I, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6. The house itself is a low boarded structure with a glass roof of are all shown, with the doorway at eac^ end of the passage. It is always conve. nient, if situation permit, to be able to gq in at one end of the house and out at thq other, and having two doors instead of one j increases the means of ventilation in hot weather. If it is not possible to have two • doors, as may be the case in some gardens, then the door must be made in the end which can be most easily approached. Again, there may be situations — as, for example, at the end of a narrow garden about 30 feet wide, with a fairiy good aspect, ranging from south-east to south- west— in which it is desirable to make the house right across the garden without the ORCHARD HOUSE. 344 ORCHARD HOUSE. possibility of having even a single door at one end. In such a case the door must be made in the centre of the front, and head- way must be gained for entrance by steps without the house leading down to the' door, and more steps within to give access to the central path, care being taken to leave room enough for the door to open properly before the ascent is commenced. Here a few remarks are necessary on the construction of approaches to a low house by steps without it leading down from a higher level. Looking at Fig. 7, which represents a section of the approach, it is clear that there will be an enclosed space between the door and the steps and the Let there be a small gutter running along the front of the step, to one corner, and there, by means of a drain-pipe, shown at E, make provision for the immediate escape of the water into a small cesspit at F, filled with brickbats and large rough stones and clinkers, and covered with brushwood, £c. , or two or three large flat stones or slates, if preferred. The cesspit should not be made immediately under the steps, but on one side of them, for obvious reasons. The bottom of the court should be solid and formed of concrete, and it is desirable that the central path of the house should also be of concrete. To return to the orchard house itself, the li 1 ;li 1 ROW || OF | VEN.TP ! UATORSJ i|; | il ; i * ' ! : ! ! ! • ! i ! | VENTILATOR i|j [I VENTILATOR 1 jll VENTILATOR '< •. j •! ! « ' i "1 • Kl i-. -ZJ , LA FIG 3. — BACK ELEVATION. containing walls that sustain the soil on either side, and this will act as a catch-pit for rain that may fall on it or water that may trickle into it. Supposing the bottom of this tiny court to be a dead level, as shown by the dotted line at A, the water, having no means of escape, or a very slow means of soaking away at the best, will touch the door sill, B, which will swell by absorbing the moisture and cause the door shown in section at c to jam and open and shut with difficulty. Everybody knows what a nuisance a tight door is, so tp prevent any annoyance from this cause let the bottom of the court in front of the door slope from the door sill to the face of the bottom step as shown by D. front elevation is shown in Fig. 2, the back elevation in Fig. 3, and the end elevation in Fig. 4. From these the mode in which the house is boarded up all round, and the construction of the doors, may be seen and fully comprehended. The position of the ventilators is also shown, there being two immediately under the wall plate in the front, three in the back just above the surface of the terrace of the back border, and a row at back immediately under the wall plate. The best and most simple method of making ventilators is shown in Fig. 8. The ventilator itself is a swing board or shutter hinged to the wall plate or board immediately above it, and secured when ORCHARD HOUSE. 345 ORCHARD HOUSE. closed by buttons screwed to the wood- work on either side of it. If it is not possible to gain access to the ventilators from outside, and it is necessary to fasten them on the inside, the buttons must be attached to the inner surface of the venti- lator and turned over the surrounding woodwork. When there is a row of venti- lators, as shown under the wall plate in the back elevation, the buttons must be attached to the lower edge of the venti- lator. There should be two buttons to every ventilator, one near each end, and not one in the centre only ; the use of two mediate sash bars being shown between them. As there are three sash bars between each pair of rafters, provision is made for the reception of panes of glass about 15 inches broad and the same in length, but, as it has already been said, the number of sash bars, which should not be less than three, may be increased, though it must be remembered that the greater the number of sash bars the less will be the space to be occupied by glass. A useful hint may be given here with regard to glazing. As there are no laps to the panes of glass, the top edge of each FIG. 4. — PLAN OF ROOF. buttons tends to prevent warping. When opened, the ventilator may be fixed, as shown in Fig. 9, by means of a stay ofjron attached to an eye screwed into the venti- lator, and hanging from it when closed, but propped against and sustained by a small piece of iron bent at an angle and screwed to the board below, as at A, a depression being made in the upper part of the iron to receive the end of the stay. A plan of the roof, also drawn to the same scale, is shown in Fig. 4. In this the six principal rafters running from wall plate in front to wall plate at back are shown at A, B, c, D, E, and F, the inter- pane will abut against the bottom edge of the pane immediately above it. The panes are to be secured from sliding downwards by brads driven into the rafter or sash bar, as the case may be. The usual mode of doing this is shown at A in Fig. 10, and under this system there must of necessity be an open space of the thickness of the brad between the edges of the panes. The better plan is to take off the lower corners of each pane, as shown at B. The brads are then driven into the woodwork in the space originally occupied by the corners of the glass, and there is no impediment to pushing up the lower pane so as to touch ORCHARD HOUSE. 346 ORCHARD HOUSE. the edge of the upper pane, so that there will be no appreciable space between them if the edges are properly and truly cut. In Fig. 5, a section of the house is given, showing the borders at front and back, the FIG. 5. — SECTION OK HOUSE, SHOWING BORDERS. raised terrace in the rear of the back border, and the central path. The borders must be sustained by containing walls, shown at A, B, and c. These may be — indeed, ought to be — of 4^-inch brick as stated, but the building of such simple walls as these would take a great many bricks and cost money. Concrete slabs screwed to posts would be cheaper than brickwork, but those who are making a house of this kind as cheaply as possible will do well to content themselves with containing walls of rough wood set on end and nailed to a framework set up from end to end of the borders. An excellent appear- ance, approximating to rustic work, is obtained by the use of fir poles sawn down the middle, which may be cut in lengths and set on end and nailed to the framework in the same manner as the boards. A coping should be formed by nailing lengths of the same material along the top edge of the wooden wall thus formed. With regard to the terrace at the back of the back border, means should be taken to protect the exterior hoarding from decay from the moisture of the earth piled against it by an interior coating of wood, or, better, of concrete slabs. The disposition of the borders is such as to bring every tree as near the light as possible, no matter in what part of the house it may be. In the case of an orchard house con- structed across the end of a narrow garden, with an entrance in front, the cost would be comparatively trifling, because there would only be the front to make, the roof, and the enclosures at the sides, and the portion of the back above the garden wall, supposing this to be of brick. Indeed, it is difficult to think of a more appropriate way of disposing of the end of a long and row garden to advantage, especially if the owner of the garden be fond of garden- ing and of fruit. The house already des- cribed may cost from about £15 to ^25, or even ,£30, according to the manner in which it is built, but it is possible that a man who can use his tools and purchase and work up his materials with care and judgment, would construct it, with the FIG. 6. — END ELEVATION. hints that have been given, for even less than £10. With regard to successful operations in fruit growing within the orchard house, everything depends upon the borders ; their surface should be loose and ORCHARD HOUSE. 347 ORCHARD HOUSE. deep, the whole forked over and well mixed with the soil 9 inches deep. Orchard House, Span-roofed. a lean-to house has been describeds and formed of old lime rubbish and road purpose of roof-ventilation found necessary sancl, mixed with manure laid 4 inches in this house. The only ventilators are the shutters I foot deep on each side and 2 feet 6 inches from the ground, and the angular opening over each door. The diagram given, as already said, affords a sectional view of the house, and it shows the end elevation also. The ground line or level is shown by AA. The borders, B, B, are slightly raised above the ground line and level of the central path, being edged with tiles or stones, shown in section at c, c ; they are 5 feet 6 inches wide, and the path, D, between them is 3 feet wide. The posts are shown by E, E, sur- mounted by wall plates, L, L, on which are notched the rafters, M, M, butting against a ridge board, N, above which are the boards which are laid on the rafters to form the ridge and cover the edges of the FIG. 7. — DRAINAGE OF APPROACH TO DOOR BY STEPS FROM WITHOUT. it may be useful to supplement it with a brief description of a span-roofed house, which comprises the advantage of border panes of glass in the highest row next the as well as pot cultivation. There will be \ ridge. From M to M runs the iron tie no occasion to show every part in detail by diagrams, as the method of building it is the same. A simple section of the structure, as given in the accompanying diagram, will be sufficient. In this the height at sides is 5 feet ; the height of ridge, 9 feet; the width, 14 feet. The roof rests on oak posts 5 inches by 3 inches. The rafters are 20 inches apart . it is glazed with i6-ounce glass, in 2O-inch squares. Under the eave boards, the sides, back, and front, are filled in with glass 15 inches deep, joined without putty. Under this is a ventilating board, on hinges, opening downwards ; below this are f- inch boards, to the ground ; the two ends are glazed to the same level as the side lights ; the doors, with glass sash, opening | Between F and G are the lines of venti- inwards. Over the door an angular space, I lating boards, the ventilators, K, K, being 9 inches deep> is found sufficient for roof shown as open : they are hinged to the attached to the rafters to strengthen them. The space COPC in centre, enclosed by dotted lines, represents the door in the end elevation, and the triangle N, just under the ridge, shows the ventilator for the roof, its position when open being indicated by the triangle N'. At H, H, between L and F on each side of the house, there is glass, but the structure is boarded up all round to the height of the dotted line FF. FIG. 0. — MODE OF ATTACHING AND FASTENING VENTILATORS. ventilation ; the rafters, 3-inch by i^-inch stuff, are tied at the top with a light iron tie screwed to the rafters. No putty is placed in the laps of the glass, which serves every boards immediately below by the lower edge, and when closed are secured by buttons. This form of house is more desirable than that of the lean-to pre- ORCHARD HOUSE. 348 ORCHARD HOUSES. FIG. 9. — MODE OF FIXING VENTI- LATOR WHEN OPEN. viously described, and should be chosen in preference to the latter if space will admit. The borders in such a structure as the span-roofed house just described need not be raised, nor the path sunk, exc, pt as a matter of choice ; they should nave a dressing of manure and sand, or manure and burnt soil, or any loose material well forked over, and mixed with a dressing to the depth of 6 inches, composed of the top spit of a pasture of tenacious loamy soil, which has been exposed to the air for the summer months, mixed with one- third of well-rotted manure, chopped up into lumps as big as an egg. In the border thus composed two rows of trees may be placed ; the front row 3 feet apart, the second being in the rear, zigzag fashion, but half way between, so that they are each 3 feet from stem to stem, and none shading the other. Such a house as this, without artificial heat, is intended for protection only, and not for forcing ; but oranges and camellias might be grown with success in it, if the house could be heated in very severe weather so as to prevent it falling at any time below 26°. The heating, however, would be absolutely necessary for the oranges only, as camellias will grow and bloom satisfactorily in the open air, being hardy and as suitable for outdoor culture as for greenhouses. The most severe frost would not injure tea-scented roses so sheltered ; but the house is essentially intended for the protection of fruit-trees, whether planted in the borders or in pots, and has the effect of bringing us, without artificial heat, to the temperature of Angers, in the south of France, where the royal muscadine grape usually ripens in the open air on the 25th of August. Orchard Houses, Mode of Cul- ture in. The use to which lean-to structures may be put with good effect is the culture of peaches, vines, and figs, in pots. Selecting a straight-stemmed maiden peach or nec- tarine, well furnished with lateral buds, and not more than three or four feet high, it is planted in an n-inch pot, and each lateral shoot is cut into two buds. As soon as the shoots have made three leaves, the third is pinched off, leaving two, not reckoning, however, one or two small aves generally found at the base of each shoot. These pinched shoots soon put forth a fresh crop of buds, each of which, and all succeeding ones, must be pinched off to one leaf as soon as two or three leaves are formed. This incessant pinching oft the shoots of a potted pyramid tree, in the climate of an orchard house, will, in one season, form a compact cypress-like tree, crowded with short fruit spurs. In spring these will require to be thinned, and every season the shoots will require to be pinched off as above described. Dwarf pyramidal peach and nectarine trees may also be planted in the border, two FIG. 10.— BRADDING IN PANES IN GLAZING WITHOUT PUTTY. feet apart, with excellent results. They re- quire the same incessant pinching, and must be lifted and 1 eplanted annually in October ; but the span-roofed house is better adapted ORCHARD HOUSES. 349 ORCHARD HOUSES. to the culture of trees planted in the bor- ders. Peaches and nectarines, planted as py- ramids in the border, require to be lifted annually, and replanted with a little fresh compost the last week in October. Mini- ature peach, nectarine, and apricot-trees, grafted on the black damask plum stock, are placed in a garden frame in January. As soon as their young shoots have made four leaves, their ends are from swelling. Paint every bud and shoot, before it swells, with Gishurst's compound!, half a pound to the gallon of water, to destroy eggs of insects. Continuing this mode of culture, re- ! commended by Mr. Rivers, from the autumn after grafting, till the fourth or ! fifth year, when the trees are beginning to ! show fruit buds, these, which it is the • object of this training to promote, are 1 distributed along the branches, in their SECTION AND END ELEVATION OF SPAN-ROOFED ORCHARD HOUSE. pinched off, leaving their leaves, and all succeeding shoots, pinched off to one leaf. In January the house must be closed day and night. If at any time the registering thermometer indicates a night temperature of 20°, some dry hay or litter should be placed among and over the pots or borders. If the trees are inclined to shrivel from drought, give a quart of water in the morning. If snow falls, clear the glass of it. In bright, sunny weather open the ventilators to check early buds whole length, in spur-bearing fruit, as the apple and pear. In the peach tribe, short spur-like shoots appear towards the end of August, bearing triple buds — a plump, silvery one on each side, and a thin one in the centre. This central bud is the termi- nal leaf bud ; the two others, blossom buds, which, in March, will have opened their silvery coat, showing the bright pink of the blossom. These indications appear in the third year after planting. Their development is promoted by care- ORCHARD HOUSES. 350 ORCHARD HOUSES. fully watching every branch, checking the more vigorous shoots by pinching off the ter- minal buds, or by breaking or half-breaking them, so as to check the flow of the sap. The work of pruning begins with the second year's growth. In the winter following the terminal branches will pre- sent a series of small shoots more or less vigorous, and the required pruning will be according to their vigour ; repressing the stronger as early as possible by pinching off the leading shoots, and encouraging the weaker shoots ; thus balancing the growth of the tree, and suffering no more branches or leaves to be produced than can properly perform their function of elaborating and storing up matter for the production of fruit — a function for which a full exposure of every part of the tree to light and air is quite essential. It is the pruner's work to remove all shoots which do not fulfil this condition by rubbing them off, and ar- resting the over-luxuriant ones by timely pinching off the terminal bud. Others, suited for his purpose, he leaves at their full length, merely depressing their points, which will induce them to push from every bud fruitful twigs of moderate growth, or he prunes back a weak shoot to two or three buds, raising the point in a perpendi- cular direction, knowing that the sap may thus be concentrated so as to produce a more vigorous growth. If he wishes to increase the vigour of his trees, he will prune them early in autumn, so that the sap they may accumulate in the winter is not thrown away : he studies, in fact, the ways and means of the tree ; nor does he forget that the roots should be under con- trol as well as the branches. The treat- ment should be preventive as well as remedial ; the latter, indeed, as Mr. Rivers tells us, " is out of place in a well- ordered garden — the finger and thumb, and a moderate sized penknife, should do all the pruning required." Orchard houses, Suitable Trees for. Full directions for the management of the orchard house from month to month must be obtained from monthly calendars. All that is possible here is to give a list of such trees as may be introduced into an orchard house without fear oi disappointment, for it is hardly neces- sary to observe that all sorts of trees do not bear the confinement of glass, nor ripen their fruit under such circumstances equally well. All the sorts mentioned are of course suited to the table ; for no one would take the trouble which an orchard house involves to grow in it any sorts of fruits which are fitted only for cookery. Apples. — Ribston Pippin, Blenheim Orange, Cox's Orange Pippin, Sturmer Pippin, Gascoyne's Scarlet Seedling, Lady Henniker, Lady Sude- ley, Jackson's Seedling, Nonpareil, Margil, Peasgood's Nonsuch, Devonshire Quarrenden. Apricots. — Breda, Hemskerk, Shipley, or Blen- heim, Moorpark, Kaisha, Grosse Peche. Cherries. — Belle de Choisy, Bigarreau Mon- streuse de Mezel, Kentish Bigarreau, or Amber Heart, Bigarreau Napoleon, Black Eagle, Governor Wood, Kentish, Bedford Prolific, May Duke, Royal Duke, Black Tartarian. Figs.— Violette de Bordeaux, White Marseilles, Brown Turkey, White Ischia, Osborn's Prolific. Grapes. — Early Malvasia, Buckland Sweetwater, Old White Sweetwater, Muscat Madresfield Court, Royal Muscadine, Black Hamburg, Foster's Seedling, Chasselas Vibert, Black Frontignan, White Frontignan, Bowood Mus- cat. Nectarines. — Advance, Elruge, River's Orange, Violette Hative, Albert Victor, Dryden Victoria. Oranges, &c. — Maltese Common Oval Orange, Maltese Blood Oval Orange, Citron, Lemon, Persian Lime, Silver Orange, St. Michael's, Tangerin, Egg Orange. Peaches. — Alexandra, Barrington, Bellegarde, Crimson Galande, Early Alfred, Early Grosse Mignonne, French Galande, Golden Eagle, Goshawk, Grosse Mignonne, Noblesse, Princess of Wales, Royal George, River's Early York, Violette Hative, Admiral Warburton. Pears. — Doyenne d'Ete", Jargonelle, Duchesse d'Angouleme, Seckle, Louise Bonne of Jersey, Josephine de Malines, Passe Colmar, William's Bon Chr6tian, Winter Nelis, Passe, Crassane, Marie Louise, Beurred'Amanlis, B. d'Arenberg, B. d'Capiamont, B. Clairgeau, B. Diel, B. Easter, B. Giffard, B. Hardy. Plums. — Angelina Burdett, Belgian Purple, Greengage, Guthrie's Greengage, Late Green, Imperatrice, Jefferson's, Kirke's Blue, Mitchel- son's, New Orleans, Oullin's Golden Gage, ORCHIDS. ORCHIDS. Pond's Seedling, Prince Engelbert, Prince of Wales, Reine Claude de Bavay, Reine Claude Rouge, Victoria, Washington, The Czar. Or'chids (nat. ord. Orchida'cese). The plants of this extensive genus are properly divided into two classes, namely Epiphytes, or orchids which grow on trees, and Terrestrial, or those which grow on the ground. They may, however, be regarded as forming four groups, namely, orchids from the tropics, which require a stove ; orchids from the Cape of Good Hope, which are suited to a greenhouse ; those from the south of Europe, which need only a slight protection during winter ; and our own native varieties. It need hardly be added that the more tender sorts are the most curious and beautiful. In June, when the plants are making free growth, keep hothouses moist. Orchids are very beautiful, but singular in appearance, both as regards leaves and flowers, and in many individuals peculiar in habit and manner of growth. Coming from tropical countries, the majority of orchids require a high temperature, and are subjects, as already said, for stove culture, being grown, for the most part, in baskets filled with sphagnum and potsherds, and some on blocks of wood ; but the terrestrial orchids are grown in pots in ordinary soil, and in some cases like a stiff loam, in which pot plants, generally speaking, would not thrive. The drainage, in most cases, for orchids should be complete, and in the case of terrestrial orchids the soil will vary according to the requirements of the individual, from a stiff soil, as already mentioned, to a compost consisting of equal parts of fibrous peat and sphagnum, with a little sharp sand and crushed char- coal. Of the terrestrial orchids the Cypri- pediums, perhaps, are the most hardy, and require the least care in cultivation, as they may be potted in the ordinary way in peaty soil, well drained. They require abundance of water, especially when in flower. The peculiar character of the flower of the orchid will be seen from the accompanying illustration of the blossom and foliage of Cypripeditim macranthum. The flowers are of a fine crimson colour, beautifully netted, and having the centre brilliantly illumined with golden yellow and white. C. calceolus is also a hand- ORCHID — " CYPRIPEDIUM MACRANTHUM.' some variety, growing to the height of 12 inches, or 6 inches less than C. macranthum, the sepals being brownish red, and the labellum, or bag-like lip, pale yellow. C. spectabik is another remarkable variety of this species. It is a North American species, growing to the height of 24 inches, and having white flowers, beautifully tinged with rose, the labellum, or lip, being of a deep carmine rose. ORNITHOGALUM. 352 OZIER. It has been said that individual species require individual treatment, and for this reason it is not practicable here to go very deeply into the culture of orchids, or, ORNITHOGALUM. indeed, to do more than point out one or two of the hardiest of the race. Those who desire to purchase plants, and to obtain information on the modes of treat- ment that they require, should go to Messrs. James Veitch and Son, Royal Exotic Nursery, 544, King's Road, Chel- sea, .or to Mr. B. S. Williams, Victoria and Paradise Nurseries, Holloway, Lon- don, N. Ornithogalum (nat. ord. Lilia'ceae). The plants belonging to this genus are numerous, and consist of various bulbous- rooted species bearing, for the most part, white or yellow star-like flowers, from which the popular name of " Star of Bethlehem " has been given to them. Some are hardy and fitted for the open border ; others are half-hardy, and better suited for greenhouse culture. They thrive in any rich light garden soil. OsteOSper'mum( nat. ord. Compos'itse). An ornamental greenhouse evergreen shrub, with pretty yellow flowers, which and coarser varieties. thrives in any light rich soil. The blos- soms of all varieties are yellow. It would be a matter of great difficulty to get a specimen plant in this country. Ox' alls (nat. ord. Gerania'cesa). A genus of exceedingly pretty bulbous plants, all of which have beautiful green foliage, which forms a fine contrast to their richly coloured blossoms. They are ad- mirably adapted for pots, borders, and rock-work, succeeding in any light soil. Oxalis acetocella> otherwise known as the Common Wood Sorrel, may be named as an example. O. JJoribunda, of which an illustration is given, is a pretty garden plant bearing rose-coloured blossoms. Ozier. The name ordinarily given to the varieties of the willow used in basket- making, the species which is chiefly grown being Salix vininalis. They should be grown in moist, but not water-logged soil. They should be cut in February, and the same month is most suitable for planting. Useful fences may be formed of the larger AGEING FRUIT. Many who are acquain- ted with American fruit have, no doubt, been struck with the fine appear- ance and* rich flavour of the Newtown pippins and other apples and pears which now reach this country annually from Canada and North America. Much of their fine quality is owing to the manner in which the fruit is gathered and pre- served. The following is said to be the process of preservation which it under- goes: As the fruit-gathering season ap- proaches, tin canisters of a proper size are prepared and carefully soldered ; the usual size being seven inches in height by five in diameter. " Select the finest fruit- peaches, strawberries, pears, apples — what Welcome, pale Primrose ! starting up between Dead matted leaves of ash and oak that strew The eveny lawn, the wood, and spinney through, 'Mid creeping moss and ivy's darker green ; How much thy presence beautifies the ground ! How sweet thy modest, unaffected pride Glows on the sunny bank and wood s warm side !" CLARE. you please," says a writer in the American Horticulturist. "It should be just ripe, but not beyond that stage, and perfectly free from bruises. Fill the canisters, place the tin lids in their places, and solder them down, leaving only a small hole the size of a pin in the centre of the lid for the escape of air. The next point is to drive all air out of the canister. In order to do this, take a broad, flat-bottomed boiler pan, place the canisters in it, and fill the boiler with water to within about three-fourths of an inch of the tops of the canisters ; place the boiler over a gentle fire until the water boils. This will drive all the air from each canister; but to make sure that it is all expelled, when the temperature of the water in the boiler is about 200° Fahr., let a drop of water fall on the hole : when 353 24 PACKING FRUIT. 354 P^EONIA. the bubbles of air cease to rise through the water thus dropped, the air is all expelled. You may now pass a dry cloth over the top, and solder the holes by letting a drop of solder fall on each. This seals the canister hermetically, provided it has been properly made, and the fruit will remain perfectly unchanged for years. The im-. mersion of the canisters in boiling water does not impart the slightest taste of having been cooked to the fruit ; but the canisters should be left to cool gradually in a dry place." This is probably too expensive a process, except for the more delicate fruits. The main supply of apples and pears which reach us from America come in casks, in which layers of cork sawdust alternate with layers of fruit, which has previously under- gone a drying process by exposure in a dry and shaded room. In respect to peaches, apricots, and nec- tarines, their handling must be of the most delicate nature. As the fruit approaches the ripe state, nets or mats stretched on short stakes should be suspended beneath, each having a lining of dry moss or lawn- grass, not to supersede hand-picking, but to guard against accidental falling. When a gathering is to take place, a shallow basket should be selected, covered with a layer of moss or leaves, and each fruit as it is removed from the tree should be deposited in it, separated from those already in the basket by a leaf placed under it, and covered with another, to protect it from contact with the next. With such delicate fruit as the peach and nectarine no mode of preservation for winter use will be effectual, unless it be the American process which has been given in detail ; but even packing these and other tender fruits, including apricots and even plums, for short journeys requires much care, although plums are by no means so susceptible of injury as the other stone fruit already named, and apricots are less delicate than peaches and nectarines. For this purpose take a box sufficiently deep to hold one tier of fruit, and no more, and pack it with the following precautions : The box being ready, and a quantity of well-beaten and dry moss, or dried lawn- grass in the absence of moss, being pro- vided, wrap each fruit, with the bloom untouched, in a piece of tissue or other equally soft paper, and pack them pretty closely with moss until the first layer is completed, then make it perfectly level by filling up with moss, and put on the lid in such a way that the fruit, without being exposed to pressure, will nevertheless re- main steadily in its place. If the box be deep enough to contain two layers, the first layer should be covered with an inner lid of thin wood dropped on to ledges nailed within to the ends of the box, and the partition should then be so secured in its place as to prevent it from shifting in any way. Grapes should be packed in boxes or small hampers from 6 to 9 or even 12 inches deep, lined with moss or leaves, and covered with the same, care being taken not to injure the bloom. Some cover the moss with tissue paper, and this plan may be recommended. Figs should be packed with vine or other leaves in shallow boxes, and strawberries in the same way, using their own leaves. Apricots should be packed in the same way. Pseon'ia (not. ord. Ranuncula'ceae.) For late spring or early summer flowering few plants are more useful than paeonies, which are divided into two classes, shrubby and herbaceous. Every flower garden should have some of them. They are mostly very hardy, and in colour vary from pure white, blush, salmon, and rose, to the most intense crirr.son. The Chinese tree, or shrubby, varieties (Peeonia Moutan) are also hardy and early flowering. Bedded PALMS. 355 PARSLEY. upon lawns they have a beautiful effect. in a shrub-like form they rise from 3 to 5 feet in height, and branch out in a good rich soil to lo or 1 8 feet in circumference. There are many varieties, and the colouring is extremely rich. They are most of them profuse flowerers. Palms. Highly ornamental plants, with large frond-like leaves, ranging from about 2 KENTIA CANTERBURIANA. feet in height to loo feet and upwards. It is only the dwarf kinds that are suitable for the adornment of the conservatory and greenhouse, such as Cocos They are propagated by seeds or suckers, and the best compost, either in which to raise the seed or to grow plants, is a mix- ture of yellow loam, fine sand, and peat or charcoal. The spring is the most suitable time for shifting and re-potting, and the spring is also the best time for sowing seed. Kentia Canterburiana and Thrinax argentea, otherwise known as the Broom Palm or Silver Thatch^ are given as ex- amples of the habit and foliage of small greenhouse and hothouse palms. Pansies. See Heartsease Parsley. Full crops of parsley should be sown in the spring along the edges of one of the borders. In order to grow this useful herb THRINAX ARGENTEA. in perfection, it is necessary that the roots and stem should be kept in a perfectly dry state : this is indispensable to the health and freshness of the plant. In preparing the beds, therefore, remove the soil to the depth of 6 or 8 inches, and fill in the bottom with the same depth of stones, brick rubbish, and similar loose material. Over this prepare the bed of light rich soil, which will thus be raised considerably above the level of the ground, the bed being raked smooth and level. Towards the end of May, sow some seed of the PARSNIPS. 256 PASSIFLORA, most curly variety, either in shallow drills, ceed best in a deep, free, rich soil, and 3S slightly covered with fine soil, or thin broadcast raked in. If the weather con- tinue dry, water frequently ; in five or six weeks the plants will have appeared ; when large enough, thin them out, so that they KERN-LEAVED 1'AKSLKY. may be 4 or 5 inches apart. By the end of autumn they will be large and vigorous plants. At this time, drive a row of stakes or hoops into the ground, on each side of the bed, so as to form arches strong enough to support a covering of mats, which should be laid over them as soon as frosty or wet weather threatens to set in. During in- tense frosts increase the protection, re- moving it on fine days, and removing it entirely in mild weather. The soil should be kept dry, and all decayed leaves care- fully removed : in this manner this useful vegetable may be available all the winter. Parsley is a biennial, and as it runs to seed in the second year, even when sown as late as possible in the previous year, it 3s necessary to make a sowing every year. To keep parsley available for culinary pur- poses as long as possible, remove the flower- stalks as soon as they appear. Green Curled Parsley is a useful variety for ordinary use, and Carter's "Perpetual" Parsley, which, it is said, stands for many years without running to seed. Parsnips. Preparation of the Soil, — Parsnips suc- the application of fresh manure tends to the production of forked and badly formed roots, ground in high condition (having been heavily manured for the previous crop) should be selected. If manure is used, let it be well rotted, short farmyard manure, or use guano. The ground should be trenched 2 feet 6 inches, and ridged up as long as possible before sowing. Time and Method of Sowing. — Sow in lines 15 to 18 inches apart, as early in spring as the ground can be found in fail working condition, scattering the seeds thinly, and covering them £ inch to i inch with the finest of the soil. After-management. — When the plants are about 2 or 3 inches high, thin them out, leaving 6 or 8 inches between them. Keep the ground free from weeds, and the surface open by frequent deep stirrings with the hoe. Towards the end of November take up the roots, and, after cutting off the tops, &c. , either store them in damp sand, in a cellar, or pit, as is done with potatoes. The roots being hardy would be quite safe in the ground. Among the varieties of the parsnip now sold by seeds- men Sutton's "Student an important acquisition ; of very superior flavour, with clean and handsome roots. Large Guernsey, and the Hollow Crowned, most useful for main crop, may be specially recommended. Passiflo'ra— Passion-flower (nat. ord. Passiflor'eae). The Passion-flowers form a genus of magnificent ornamental twining shrubs, with flowers at once interesting, beautiful, and curious, which are produced in the PEACHES. 357 PEA STICKS. greatest profusion and in succession during the greater part of the year under glass, and out of doors during summer and autumn. They are among the most im- portant and effective of plants for training in conservatories, or covering the fronts of cottages and villas in the town or country. . They are propagated by means of young shoots taken from the parent plant with a heel, set in light sandy soil in small pots, and placed in a close frame or under a handlight. They will grow in almost any kind of soil, provided that the drainage, when in pots, is efficient. For outdoor culture Passiflora c(zruleat or the blue passion-flower, is the most hardy, and there- fore the most suitable. For indoor deco- ration of the conservatory and greenhouse, the white variety known as " Constance Elliott," and P. coccinea, with its beauti- ful red blossoms, are very desirable. Some of the varieties bear edible fruit. Peaches. Peaches, like nectarines, should be pruned in February, grafted in March. Protect from frost, and syringe with tobacco water if green fly appears. Stop leading shoots in May, and thin thickly-set fruit when stoned. The best varieties are : — circular form, connected by two horizontal bars, one on either side, the whole being covered with galvanised wire netting of f inch mesh. These protectors are made in 3-feet lengths, and are supplied at about (i) Early. Acton Scot. Early Alfred, Early Beatrice. Dagmar. Rivers' Early York. Grosse Mignonne. Kale's Early. Noblesse. . Royal George. i « 3 4 I 2 3 4 (2) Medium. Harrington. Bellegarde. PrincessofWales. Violette Hative. (3) Late. Late Admirable. Walburton Ad- mirable. Sea Eagle. Golden Eagle. Pea Guards or Protectors. The wire coverings known as pea guards, and used for the protection of the young crops from birds during their early growth,consists, as will appear from the accompanying illus- tration, of two pieces of wire bent in semi- PEA GUARD OR PROTECTOR. 73. 6d. per dozen lengths, including twx stop ends to every dozen, so as to preven- ingress of birds at the extremities of th rows if left open. These appliances an most useful, and can be employed witl advantage to protect other seeds that ar* likely to receive injury from birds. Pea Sticks, Substitute for. The following simple and easily con structed substitute for pea sticks anc pea hurdles is thus described by a writei in " Gardening Illustrated," who says : — " Having found some years ago a diffi- culty in getting pea sticks while in Guernsey, I tried the plan of an old French gardener, and have done it ever since with every success. First, get some square garden stakes (these I have now had for three years) of the height of your pea — we will say 3 feet ; then with a sprig bit place holes at about 6 inches apart, beginning at the top, leaving i foot to go into the ground (the stake should thus be 4 feet in length) ; then make your trench, say I foot wide ; plant your peas, and when just appearing drive your stakes in along each side, say about 8 feet apart ; drive in two strong pieces of wood, one at each end, get some strong twine that will go through the holes you have made, wax it well, put it through your holes, and secure it at one end, running it through the hoits made in the stake at the other end. 1 ao PEARS. 358 PEAS. this every year with the same stakes and string so that the first is the only cost. I have tarred the ends of the stakes. Be- tween every other two stakes 1 place a piece of wood (say pieces of sawn lath) to keep them in position when I tighten the siring, which I do every two or three weeks." The "sprig bit " mentioned above is merely a narrow bit that will bore a hole f inch or | inch in diameter. Those who have no bit and brace may drive in small staples, such as are used by bellhangers to retain bell wire in its place, about 6 inches apart, on one side of each stake, the staples to face outwards when the stakes are driven into the ground. And instead of twine, tarred cord, to be bought of the ropemaker or oilman, may be used with advantage, the lengths being joined together with a sailor's knot, which will pass through a hole of f inch diameter, or the eye formed by a staple whose inside measurement is § inch." Pears. These are best grown dwarf. The varieties of the pear are very numerous. The following are twelve good varieties of market pears, arranged in order of ripening. Those marked with a star may be planted in cold soils : i. Doyenne d'Ete.* a. Lammas.4 3. Jargonelle.* 4. Williams' Bon Chretien.* 5. Colmar d'Ete.* 6. Hessell.* 7. Beurre de Capiau- mont. 8. Althorp Crassane. 9. Fertility. 10. Eyewood. 11. Bishop's Thumb. 12. Broom Park. The following are choice pears, good as standards, or for training on walls : 1. Souvenir de Con- gres. 2. Beurre d" Amanlis. 3. Doyen Boussoch. 4. Durondeau. 5. Pitmaston Duchess 6. Beurre Superfin. 7. Beurre Hardy. 8. Beurre Clairgean. 3. Louise Bonne of Jersey. 10. Duchesse d'An- gouleme. n. Josephine de Ma- lines. 12. Doyenne du Co- mice. 13. Beurre Deil. 14. Marie Louise. 15. Triomphe de Vi- enne Peas. Soil and Situation.— for heavy crops of this prime esculent a deep loamy soil should be secured, but ordinary garden soil, if properly prepared and well manured, will yield abundantly. For an early crop, plant in the warmest and most sheltered situation ; but for the main crops choose an open, airy situation ; and instead of devoting a portion of the garden to peas alone, as is TYPE OF GARDEN OR EDIBLE PEA. usually done, plant them in single lines amongst other crops : the plants will thus get more sun and air, and bear much longer and more abundantly. Preparation of the Ground. — Trench to the depth of 2 feet, and ridge up roughly, exposing as large a surface as possible to the action of the weather ; and this should be done as long before sowing as con- venient. The summer and autumn crops will require abundance of well-rooted PEAS. 359 PEAS. manure ; but the early crop will come sooner into bearing if planted in poorer soil, which should be deep and well pulverised. Time of Solving. — Sow the first crop about the middle of November, the second early in January, putting in a small breadth of a second early variety at the same time ; and to secure a constant succession, sow once a fortnight from this time till the end of June, or yet later. After the beginning of March sow the best kinds of Wrinkled Marrows; but for the last two sowings use a free-cropping early, or second early variety, and when the ground is sufficiently dry to work kindly. Manner of Sowing. — Sow in drills two inches deep and four inches wide, covering the seed with friable soil. In sowing peas, they should be scattered evenly, at regular distances apart, so that there may be no crowding. If sown in successive rows, let the intervening space exceed the reputed height to which the variety grows by six or twelve inches. As the seed for the earlier crops will be some time in the ground exposed to the depredations of mice, &c., it should be sown thickly. The strong-growing branching kinds, which are used for the main crops, succeed better if sown thinly, but it is prudent to guard against loss from various causes by sowing all rather thickly. If the plants are found to be too close when fairly started, they can easily be thinned out. French gardeners sometimes sow peas in clusters, making holes 8 or 10 inches apart in the rows, and planting in each five or six peas. After-management. — Peas should be earthed up when about 3 inches high, and the sticks put to them before they begin to be taller on one side than the other, but not till they really require it, as slicks are likely to draw them up weak, especially if they are sown too thickly. Spruce fir or other evergreen branches will afford a use- ful shelter to early crops. Keep the ground between the rows well stirred and free from weeds. After sticking, they should be mulched, spreading the dung over a clear space of 1 8 inches on each side of the row, to the depth of 3 inches. In sticking peas, plenty of small brush should be placed near the ground, in order to conduct the peas upwards : it is useless to give them support above, and leave them without the means of getting to it. It is very necessary to mulch early crops of peas, especially where the soil is light : it protects the young roots from frost, and saves watering and manuring the ground for the next crop, and tends to produce a better and much earlier supply. Where ground is valuable, and the rows run from north to south, the space between the rows of peas may be filled with cabbages, onions, French beans, and other surface crops ; but to do this with good effect there should be plenty of room between the rows. Forwarding Growth. — There are various modes of forwarding the growth of peas for early crops. One method is to have some pieces of turf cut very thick, about 8 inches wide, and of any convenient length. Make a groove along the centre, and sow the peas moderately thick in it, cover them with rich light soil, and place the turfs so planned under the stage of a greenhouse, or in a pit or frame. Towards the end of March or beginning of April, plant them out, burying the turfs com- pletely in the soil. A second method is to prepare some shallow boxes, about 6 inches deep, filled with adhesive soil ; this soil is drilled or grooved, and in the grooves the peas are planted ; the boxes placed, as before, in a frame or under the greenhouse stage. When fully up, cut the soil into portions, each part containing a single row of peas; plant the whole in the open ground, burying the whole of the soil con- PEAS. 360 PELARGONIUMS. taming the peas. A third method is to use small 3-inch pots, in which clumps of peas are sown, which may be turned out into the ground, without disturbing the roots. Where the garden soil is cold and heavy, it is advisable to adopt one or other of these methods for securing early peas. Sorts. — For sorts now in the market, see the price lists of the principal nursery- men and seedsmen. They are very numerous, and »aew varieties are constantly being introduced. Peas for Autumn Crops. — The produc- tion of peas in autumn requires considerable attention, especially on light porous soils, and even on soils which produce good spring and summer crops. By the follow- ing process fine crops of peas may be pro- duced till October. Manure and trench a piece of ground in the ordinary way, and make a trench 9 inches deep and 15 inches wide ; a coating of cow dung six inches thicic is forked into the trench, and covered with a few inches of soil ; upon this soil the peas are sown. If late in the season and in dry weather, soak the peas for a day or two in water before sowing ; but for early crops, or in moist weather, the pre- caution is unnecessary. When in full bearing, a thorough soaking with liquid manure, or a sprinkling of guano over the trenches, and a copious watering with soft water afterwards, will not be thrown away. A row or two of peas, according to length, sown every month until August, will give a plentiful supply for an ordinary family, and good succession throughout the season. Plants sown in August, in pots filled with rich manure planted out on a south border previously trenched and well manured, the whole ground being thoroughly soaked with weak manure water, and mulched* several inches thick with well-rotted dung, will yield an excellent crop through October. Pegs for Bedding plants. Various expedients are resorted to by gardeners to peg down the different sorts of bedding plants — verbenas, petunias, £c. Some use ladies' hair-pins, and some use small pegs made of hazel or other wood ; but the neatest, the cheapest, and most efficient pegs which have come under the writer's notice are cut from the brake, a wild fern which grows freely in every lane and on almost every common in England. Many a poor boy might earn an honest penny by cutting these in autumn, when the wood is tough, and selling them in bundles for next summer's use. Galvanised wire pegs are very durable, and may be bought at 35. a thousand. Pelargo'niums, Culture of. June and July are the best months for increasing pelargoniums for ordinary purposes. Cuttings struck at this season from plants which have been forced, and the wood thoroughly ripened, produce fine plants for autumn flowering and early spring forcing, supplying the want of flowers in the conservatory in winter and spring. The pots being prepared in the usual manner, and well supplied with drainage and other loose material for one- third of their depth, fill up with a compost composed of equal parts turfy loam and silver sand well mixed and sifted, so as to keep back the large lumps. Select cuttings from strong short- jointed shoots three or four inches long, removing the lower leaves so as to leave the base of the cuttings clear ; place them round the edge of the pot about an inch or an inch and a half deep. When planted, water freely to settle the soil round them, and place them in a cold pit or frame. Sprinkle them occasionally overhead till rooted ; afterwards give air gradually to harden them for potting off into 3-inch pots. When well established in the small pots PELARGONIUMS. PELARGONIUM'S. and about six inches high, stop them, that they may throw out lateral or side shoots. When they have made their shoots, repot SHOW PELARGONIUMS. them in 48*5, in equal parts turfy loam, peat, and decomposed cow or stable dung, with a good proportion of road or river sand, the pots being thoroughly drained with potsherds or oyster-shells ; thin out the leaves and small shoots occasionally, to throw the whole sap into the shoots which are to produce flowers. When plunged into the border to flower, these plants will be benefited by being lifted occasionally to prevent them from rooting through the bottom of the pots. Those for spring forcing will require a further shift in September ; and the fancy varieties, being more delicate growers, will require more drainage ; and a little charred cow dung in rough pieces over the potsherds will be found beneficial. Fancy Sorts for Specimens. — When autumn-flowering plants are required, take cuttings in early summer, when they will strike freely ; fill the pot half full of broken potsherds, then add a compost of equal parts of good turfy loam, peat, and well- decomposed cow dung and leaf mould, with a good portion of silver-sand. By the end of July the plants will require to be re- potted : take care that this is repeated as often as roots fill the pots. As the season advances, a little heat will make them expand their blossoms more freely. For large fine-grown specimens select a strong plant, and pot in a compost consisting of two parts good turfy loam, one of leaf mould, one of well-decomposed cow dung, and a good portion of silver sand. After a summer's free growth, assisted by frequent watering, about the beginning of July begin to diminish the quantity of water, so that the wood may be thoroughly hardened before cutting down. By the end of July the plants should be shaken clean out of the soil, the roots pruned at the points, and repotted in a similar compost. In November they should be potted again ; and in February they will require another shift, when each shoot should be stopped at the fourth joint, to induce lateral shoots. ZONAL PELARGONIUMS. When these laterals are of sufficient length, they must be stopped again. If intended to flower in May, stop in July ; if in June, stop in January ; and if in July, stop in February. PENNYROYAL. 362 PETUNIA. Pelargoniums are classified as — (i) Show and Decorative ; (2) Fancy ; (3) Zonal, or Bedding ; (4) Variegated-leaved ; (5) Ivy-leaved. The named varieties are far IVY PELARGONIUMS. too numerous to admit of mention of them here. Pennyroyal. A variety of mint (Mentha pukgiuni) cultivated chiefly as a medicinal herb, although it is sometimes used in cookery. It is propagated by division of the roots in spring or autumn. It thrives in good loam or good garden soil, and, if the soil be dry, it requires watering, as it does best in a moist situation. Penstemon (not. ord. Scrophulari' nese). Useful herbaceous perennials for the garden, bearing flowers of various colours, and of graceful habit of growth. They are propagated by seeds or cuttings and do best in well-manured sandy loam. Al- though hardy, young plants require pro- tection in frames during the winter, and even well-established plants are susceptible to injury from wet weather, speedily followed by sharp frost. It is better to cover the roots with ashes during the cold season. Perennials. Plants which do not require renewal from seed from year to year are called perennials. There are two sorts, namely, those which are not always visible above ground, but die down to the ground every year, and spring up again the year follow- ing ; and those which do not die down, but retain their leaves, as pinks, carnations, saxifrages ; and these, on this account, are called evergreen perennials. The first sort are known as Herbaceous Perennials. Perennials, Herbaceous. See. Herbaceous Perennials. Periwinkle. See Vinca. Petunia (nat. ord. Solana'cese). There is very little difficulty in the culture of this half-hardy, soft-wooded plant, which may be propagated from seeds sown in the spring, and treated in precisely the same manner as that pre- scribed for raising half-hardy annuals, or it may be grown from cuttings struck in gentle heat in early spring, or without heat in August and September. Both single and double varieties are beautiful in ap- pearance, and may be used for borders, bedding-out purposes, and pot culture. PETUNIA. 363 PHILLYREA. Propagation by Seeds. — The seeds should be sown in light sandy soil that is fairly rich, and sprinkled over with a slight covering of the same mould when sown. When large enough to transplant, shift SINGLE PETUNIA, SHOWING HABIT OF PLANT. from the pot or seed pan in which they have been raised into smaller pots ; 3-inch pots will do, although even smaller sizes may be used, and in these they may remain until they are required for planting out. If they remain in pots for some little time before they are planted out, they should be pinched in order to induce shrubby habit of growth. Propagation by Cuttings.— Cuttings taken in August and planted in a south border, in soil with which some sand and rotten manure from a spent hotbed have been incorporated will soon root and be ready for transfer to pots at the end of September. They should be wintered in a pit or cold frame, round which sufficient litter should be placed, with mats, &c., or other suitable means of protection over the glass, to keep out the frost. When in this position and condition, they will need but little water, for they should be kept as dry as possible, having due regard to the sustention of their vitality. Air should be given when the weather is fine and dry ; if any signs of mildew show themselves, they should be dusted with sulphur. Old plants should be subjected to the same treatment to preserve them through the winter. If started in February in gentle heat, they will soon send out shoots which may be taken off and struck in seed pans, well drained and filled with light sandy soil, in warm bottom heat. The soil in which the cuttings are placed should be kept moist. Soil, &c. — For a useful compost for petunias, use six parts of rich fibrous loam, two parts of leaf mould, one part of decom- posed cow manure, and one part of sharp sand. Incorporate all well together, and let the compost lay by for some weeks before using. Petunias that remain in pots should be shifted in the spring into 6-inch pots, in which they will bloom. Liquid manure may be given when they are about to come into blossom. Varieties. — Good bedding petunias with double blossoms will be found in Alba Fimbriata, white, with fringed petals, and Crimson King. For a full list of varieties recourse should be had to growers and nurserymen's price lists. Philadelphia. See Syringa. Phillyrea. Of Phillyreas there are several sorts, all FLOWER OF DOUBLE PETUNIA. of which, from their dark, shiny leaves, form excellent masses, and grow freely in almost any soil. All plants belonging to this genus are white-flowered, but the PHLOX. 364 PINCHING. beauty of each variety lies in its leaves and not in the bloom, which is small in every case, and by no means showy or attractive. Phlox (nat. ord. Polemona'cese). This magnificent genus of plants, both annual and perennial, is unrivalled for rich- ness and brilliancy of the coicurs of the flowers, and profusion and duration of PHLOX DRUMMONDII. blooming. The Phlox Drummondii varieties — half-hardy annuals — make splendid bedding and pot plants ; the P. decussata or maculata, perennial varieties, produce a fine effect in mixed borders ; no garden should be without them. They succeed best in light rich soil, and are propagated by seeds in the case of annuals, and by cuttings and division of the roots for perennials. Picotees' (nat. ord. Caryophyla'cese). These are a kind of carnation, distin- guished by a narrow dark-coloured edging to the petals, or by the petals, being covered with very small coloured dots. The cultivation is in every respect the same as the carnation. Pinching: its Purpose and Utility. The work of pruning (see Pruning) is done chiefly with the view of regulating the shape and growth of a fruit-tree and the formation of wood : the promotion, however, of the growth of fruit branches is effected by another kind of operation, to which the name of pinching has been applied, as it is done with the forefinger and thumb, the thumb nail being the agent or instrument by which the tender shoot is shortened or nipped back. The end ot the shoot is taken between the thumb and finger, and a portion of it removed by pressing the nail into and through its stem, which is supported as by a cushion by the finger. In a standard, pyramid, or espalier tree, the fruit branchlets will grow along each branch from its junction with the stem to its terminal point, and are disposed all round the branch, radiating from it at different points; but in trees that are trained against a wall the fruit spurs will grow from the branches in an upward, downward, or outward direction ; there will be none developed on the side that is turned to the wall. Fruit branches are generally in bearing the third year after their first development. They should be kept, says Du Breuil, " as short as possible, that the fruits maybe close to the principal branches ; they will then receive the most direct action of the sap, and become larger PINCHING. 365 PINCHING. than if placed at a further distance from its source." Pinching, Rationale, and Mode of. Fruit Branches. — The following account of the rationale and mode of pinching, and FIG. I. — DIAGRAM ILLUSTRATING SHORTENING OF BRANCHES ACCORDING TO INCLINATION. the illustrations that accompany the text, are taken from Du Breuil's work, although the exact wording of his remarks and in- structions has not been always followed : — " Fruit branches," he explains, " are developed from the less vigorous buds upon the wood branches. In order to obtain a continued series of fruit buds upon the entire length of a branch exten- sion, it is necessary to cut back a little of the branch, otherwise the wood buds on one part, towards the base, should be cut back according to their degree of inclina- tion." Shortening Wood Branches. — At this point the question naturally will arise to what extent and in what manner the degree of inclination must influence the shortening. In Fig. I there are three branches which are supposed to emanate from the same point. Of these, A is vertical, B at an angle of 45°, and C horizontal. Now, in A, owing to its upright position, the sap will run to the extremity with the greatest vigour, and be most active in the buds between a and the terminal bud, but between a and the point of issue from the stem, two-thirds of the length of the entire bough, the buds will remain dormant. In order, then, to cause a proper development of the lower buds the branch must be shortened back to b, which is by just half its length. In B, the progress of the sap is not so rapid, and the buds from c to the extremity will become tolerably well developed, while those between c and the point of issue from the stem will remain dormant. In order, then, to promote the due development of buds near the bottom of the branch, it must be shortened to d, a distance of one- third its entire length. In c, the bough in a horizontal position, the sap will act with equal force at every point of its length, and there is no need to shorten it at all. If we suppose branches D and E growing in intermediate positions, the points at which they are intersected by the arc XY, which passes through b and a, will show the extent to which these branches ought to be shortened. In this lies the whole matter of shortening the yearly extensions of wood at the proper time for doing so. Fruit Buds, Treatment of. — To return to the fruit buds. "Suppose," says Du FIG. 2.— MODE OF PINCHING TO FORM FRUIT SPUR. Breuil, ': the pruning has been duly per- formed upon the branch extension, by the beginning of May the branch will be covered with buds upon its entire length. The vigour of the buds will be greatest PINCHING. 366 PINCHING. as they approach the highest part of the branch, and those quite at the extremity will, unless arrested, acquire great develop- ment. Now, it is only the weak buds that become fruit spurs : it is therefore im- portant to diminish their vigour. This result is obtained by pinching. As soon as the buds intended to form fruit branches have attained a length of about four inches, they must be pinched off with the nails." In Fig 2 the right and wrong place at which to pinch a shoot is shown, the former being at A and the latter at B. When pinched in the proper place, fruit buds will be developed along the shoot from its base to the extremity ; but if too much has been taken off, leaving only three or four leaves between the new extremity and the base, the piece that remains may cease altogether to grow, and ultimately perish, leaving a bare space the next year, or if it does not do this, in a year or two years after the pinching buds may appear on each side of the base of the suppressed shoot, which, after the lapse of two or three years more, develop into flower buds. Sometimes premature buds will spring from the axils of the lower leaves immediately after the excessive pinching, which may develop into fruit spurs, but which never set for fruit so freely as spurs from branchlets that have not been shortened to more than three, or at the utmost, two inches. On what Pinching Depends. — In pinch- ing, then, everything depends on the time of growth at which each shoot is shortened, and the extent to which the shortening is carried. It has been shown that when the shortening is too great, the shoot may perish altogether, or that years may elapse before proper fruiting takes place on it, or that the fruit buds that are immediately developed are weak and far from being as productive as they ought to be. In the first case, there is loss of material ; in the second, loss of time ; and in the third, loss of power and vitality. Long Shoots, Treatment of. — When any shoots have been allowed to grow without pinching until they have attained a length of from 8 inches to 12 inches or even move, they must not be pinched off at about 4 inches from the base, because this would tend to cause the buds at the base or axils of the leaves to develop into branchlets in due time ; but they should be twisted round without snapping them off at the distance of four inches from the base, and the extremity of each shoot nipped off. Second Yeary Treatment in. — With re- gard to subsequent treatment, in the second year it will be found that the shoots on the branch which has been shortened and pinched in the manner described will have developed into a series of small branches, of which those on the lower third of the shoot are very short, and those on the middle third only a little longer than those on the lower third ; these may be suffered to remain as they are, as they will develop into fruit branches without any further treatment. The shoots on the upper third, although repeatedly pinched during the summer, for the shoots near the ends of the boughs do not take their pinching so quietly as the lower shoots, but put forth fresh growth, will have formed shoots, more or less vigorous, according to their position, towards the end of the bough. The less vigorous ones must be broken right off just above a bud, at about three inches from the base, and the more vigorous partly broken through at the same distance from the base as the less vigorous, and the shoots that have been twisted the previous summer should be broken off at the twist. Longer shoots at the very extremity of the branch which may have escaped pinching and have attained a length of from 12 to 18 inches, and are more or less thick, may be left PINEAPPLE. 367 PINEAPPLE. alone to form additional wood for laying in, or broken off at four inches from their base, if not too strong, or if very vigorous, they may be broken at this distance from the base, and then snapped off at about the same distance beyond the first fracture. Third Year, Treatment in. — In the third year the minute branches at the lower third of the main branch will have de- veloped into fruit buds, and will bear fruit, now becoming fruit spurs. The fruit buds may be easily distinguished from leaf buds, as they are very thick and full at the upper part when compared with the latter, which are slighter and more elongated . The longer shoots in the intermediate third have also formed minute branches, and so have the stronger and shortened shoots at the extreme third, and fructification will ensue. When after the lapse of years the fruit spurs become too large and require prun- ing, they must be cut back as will be ex- plained in instructions on Pruning. Some- times it will happen that fruit spurs are per- mitted, through want of care, to attain too great a size. They must then be shortened back gradually, portions furthermost from the base being taken off the first year, then other portions in the second year, reserv- ing the final shortening for the third year, because, if they were cut back to the full extent that is necessary all at once in the first year, the consequence would be that the spurs thus shortened would put forth vigorous shoots which would assume the character of wood branches. Pineapple. At one time pineapples, or pines as they are usually called for the sake of brevity, were the great luxury of the upper ten thousand ; now, through the numerous quantities imported, they are brought within the reach of all : perhaps chiefly for this reason they are not so generally grown as formerly. There is also a very prevalent idea that their cultivation is both difficult and expensive. The formidable treatises published on their culture have frightened many from undertaking it ; and yet few plants are more easily cultivated. There is also no comparison between a well-ripened English-grown pine and an imported one. The former is generally a luscious fruit ; the latter is very often but little better than a sweet turnip. Occasionally, however, good foreign pines may be had ; but they can never compete with English ones ; and there is no reason, in cultural difficulties nor expense of pro- duction, why every lover of this fruit should not grow his own. Houses and Heating. — Houses for their culture are easily made. No peculiarity of structure is necessary. Doubtless the nearer the light they can be placed the better, although excellent pines may be grown under the shade of vines at least a yard from the roof. The most convenient, and ultimately the cheapest mode of supply- ing bottom-heat, is by hot water ; pipes, and a hot-air chamber under the bed, are best, and least liable to accident. Beds. — The bed to grow pines in should be 4 feet deep, to allow of a sufficiency of plunging material to cover the highest pots, and of sufficient soil to plant the pines out in the bed. This latter is the best, cheapest, and most efficient mode of growing pines. Prepare the bed thus: — Place 6 inches of rough brickbats for drainage, then a layer of broken bones two inches thick ; on this a layer of rich loam, in whole pieces, with the turf inverted on the drainage in solid pieces one foot square and 2 to 3 inches thick. Then fill up to within 8 inches of the top, with this soil chopped into pieces about four inches square, mixed with broken bones and pieces of charcoal, and broken freestone instead of sharp sand. The charcoal or bones give a sort of enriching power to PINEAPPLE. 368 PINEAPPLE. the loam, and all other food is supplied afterwards, just and only when it is wanted, in a liquid state. Sorts for Cultivation. — Secure some good Queens of any approved variety, and some black Jamaicas for winter ; as many Providences as room can be found for, with a few Montserrats, and these are all that are required. For the general crop nothing equals the Queens. Providences are the next best, and by far the noblest of all. See that the plants are perfectly clean and TYPE OF PINEAPPLE. healthy, rather than large, when they are purchased. When pines once get infested with white scale or mealy bug, they are useless. Planting. — Turn the plants carefully out of the pots, plant from 3 to 5 feet apart, according to the sorts, size of plants, &c. Providences require most space. Un- wind as many roots as possible -without breaking the ball too much ; earth up the stem as high as the good, sound, healthy leaves (those that are otherwise should be removed) will allow you ; leave a hard, smooth surface, water with water at a temperature of 80°, and the work is com- plete. Plants thus bedded out will not require watering nearly so often as those in pots ; and if the entire surface be mulched over with cocoanut- fibre refuse, a good soaking once a month, in the grow- ing season, will probably suffice. It is probable that, with generous treatment, most of these plants will fruit within eighteen months of the time of planting. Suckers. — When the fruit is cut, let the leaves be as little injured as possible. With amazing strength and rapidity, two or three suckers will spring up, and grow with the great- est vigour. One only should be left, the others may be either potted for succession plants or be thrown away. From a period varying from six to twelve months from the time of cutting one fruit, another will be ripe on the same stool. After-Treatment. — As the young plant on the stock advances, the old leaves on the latter may be reduced until all, or nearly all, are removed. At the same time the roots should receive a rich top-dressing of the same material in which they grow ; thus nearly eight inches will be left on the surface at planting, so as to allow two or three inches of fresh dress- ing to every new crop. This is essential, as, from the suckers possessing a self- elevating power and proceeding from a few inches of the bottom of the stool, they could not have an independent support from the soil unless it was raised up with them. After a few years it may be neces- sary to remove the entire bed bodily, and begin at a lower level afresh. There can PEAS. POTATOES. PINEAPPLES IN POTS. 369 PINEAPPLES IN POTS. be no question that this is the cheapest most rapid, and most profitable system of management. Making New Beds, &c. — When the suckers are thoroughly rooted (which is often the case before the fruit is cut), and the fruit is cut, remove the stools, separate the suckers, make a new bed, and plant the latter singly, as at the beginning. Whatever plan be adopted, it will often be necessary to pot quantities of the best suckers to keep up a good stock, form new beds, &c. When the beds get too thick, or the soil gets exhausted, begin as at the beginning. Pineapples in Pots. Potting Season. — In growing pines in pots there will generally be two potting seasons — March, and June or July. Ten- or 12-inch pots will fruit the largest plants, and as soon as the first are cut, and the suckers large enough for removal, the stools may be destroyed. Pots of the largest size are recommended for pines, supposing the plants are well grown and in vigorous health ; but nothing but disappointment will follow placing pines in large pots when the pots in which they are growing are not filled with roots to justify shifting them. Much, however, the easiest and cheapest way to grow pines is to have them planted on a bed of soil furnished with bottom heat, either by hot- water pipes, or by applying hot dung underneath ; the soil being supported by brickwork and slates, or rough boards. The bottom heat required will be from 85° to 95°, and the soil may be turfy loam and peat, with sand and leaf mould, varying the latter as the loam is heavy or light. If the plants are grow- ing in pots, they may be turned out into the beds whenever the bottom heat is right ; a few of the outside shoots being liberated, and the soil carefully packed round the bails as you proceed. The bed should be brought pretty close up to the glass ; for as the plants will grow vigorously during the autumn, they will require an abundance of light, assisted by a liberal supply of air, to check vegetation and mature the fruit. In planting out or growing in pots, always allow plenty of room between the plants, that the leaves may spread themselves in a horizontal direction, and thus expose their surface better to the light; and it should likewise be a point that the light and air should reach the lower leaves, which can never be the case when they are crowded together. Directly the succession plants are removed to the fruiting-house, the younger plants intended to succeed later next season, and suckers, should be re- shifted and plunged to occupy their places. After the suckers, &c., are potted and plunged, keep them rather close for a few days till they begin to grow, after which expose them to light and air. Importance of Leaves. — In all work among pines, remember their leaves are their very life. Appearance also requires that they should never be bruised or in- jured in the least. Practice alone can enable one to perform the necessary opera- tions without bruising or breaking the foliage. The roots, too, must be carefully preserved. The facility with which pines emit roots up the stems made the old gar- deners reckless about those they already possessed : hence the wholesale disrooting once so common. But the emission of fresh roots does not necessarily supersede the use of those already formed. Neither do pine-roots die naturally annually ; the longer they can be preserved the better. The more mouths, provided there is food to fill them all, the more nourishment and strength will be imparted. It is the busi- ness of the cultivator to supply this food in a liquid state when and where it is wanted. Healthy roots and leaves convert it intc pine fruit ; consequently, the greater the PINES. 370 PINETUM, CONIFERS FOR. quantity used, the heavier and the better- flavoured the pine will be. Pines (Conifers.) First among the conifers, let us take the genus Pinus. It is hardly possible to do justice to the rich variety which is here included. There are pines adapted to every soil and every situation ; also for every purpose of ornament and profit. What more commanding than a fine specimen of Pinus excelsa ? Then there are P. Devoniana, the Uuke of Devon- shire's pine, P. insignis, and very many others. Nor must the magnificent Welling- tonia gigantea be omitted, which is certainly a pine, and the noblest and hardiest of pines ; nor Arauearia imbricatat the Chilian pine, a very distinct variety. Pinetlim. See Conifers. Pinetlim, Conifers for. In the pinetum, if space permits, plant any and every pine that will endure the climate of that part of the United Kingdom in which it is situated. If space is limited, and economy to be studied, the following will probably suit, or a selection may be made from them. The names of the trees are alphabetically arranged, according to genus, and except in cases where there is room for doubt, the general limits of height are given, and the name by which each tree is known when it possesses a common name, as well as its botanical name. Height in Feet. Abies Canadensis ...Hemlock Spruce... 50 to 80 „ Douglasii Douglas Pine ...100 ,, 180 „ nigra Spruce 60 „ 70 ,, Smithiana 50 ,, — Arauearia imhricata ...Monkey Puzzle ... 50 ,, 100 Cedrus deodara Indian Cedar ...150 „ 200 ,, robusta 150 ,, 200 „ Lebani Codar of Lebanon 60 ,, 80 Cephalotaxus Fortuni. Japanese Yew ... 40 ,, 60 Cryptomeria Japonica. Japan Cedar ... 50 ,, 100 ,, »ana 3P .. *P Height in Feet Cupressus Lusitanica .Cedar of Goa ... 40 to 50 ,, MacNabiana 10 ,, 15 „ sempervirens ...Common Cypress. TO ,, 100 ,, sempervirens ,, horizontalis 10 „ 100 ,, torulosa ... ' 50 „ 70 Fitzroya Patagonica 80,, — Juniperus communis... Common Juniper 3 „ 20 Canadensis. ..Canadian Juniper 3 , 5 compressa i 3 excelsa 20 ., 40 prostrata [6 inches] recurva 5 „ 8 Sabina Common Savin ... 5 ,, 8 foliis varie- gatis 4 ,, — virginiana ...Red Cedar 10 „ 90 pendula ...Weeping Red Ce- dar 5 „ — Larix Europaea Ccmmon Larch ... 80 „ 100 „ pendula 15 ,, 20 Picea Cephalonica 50 „ 60 „ grandis 100 ,, 170 „ nobilis 80 ,, 100 ,, Nordmanniana 80 ,, 90 „ pectinata Silver Fir 80 ,, 100 „ pichta Pitch Pine 50 ,, — ,, Pinsapo Spanish Fir 40 „ 65 Pinus Austnaca Black Pine 60,, 80 „ cembra Siberian Pine ... 20 ,, 30 „ excelsa 90 ,, ico „ Hendersonia 40 „ 50 ,, insignis 40 „ 60 „ L&mbertiana 100 ,, 200 „ macrophylla 30 „ 50 „ pinaster Cluster Pine 40 „ 60 „ pinea Stone Pine 30,, 60 Pinus ponderosa 50 ,, 100 ,, pumilio Dwarf Pine 10 ,, 20 „ radiara 30 „ 50 „ Sabiniana 40 ,, 120 „ Strobus Weymouth Pine... 50 ,, 209 „ sylvestris Scotch Fir 60 ,, 80 Sequoia sempervirens — ,, — Taxodiumdistichum... Deciduous Cypress 30 „ 70 „ pendulum 20 „ 30 Taxus baccata Common Yew ... 20 „ 30 „ Canadensis 10 „ 20 Thuja filifprmis 10 ,, 15 „ occidentalis ...American Arbor Vitas 20 „ 30 „ orientalis Chinese Arbor Vitae 15 „ 25 „ Siberica 20 ,, 30 Wellingtonia gigantea 200 ,, 300 It must not be supposed for a moment that the above is an exhaustive list of the various trees that are comprised under each genus. On the contrary, many more will be found under each head in Johnson's " Cottage Gardener's Dictionary " and similar works. It is only sought here to give the names of a few specimens that are possessed o< peculiar excellence in one PINETUM. 37i PINKS. form or another, and therefore are especi- ally deserving of notice. Pinetum, Distance between Trees in. The distance of pines from each other in the pinetum must be determined by their height (see Pinetum, Conifers for). For permanent effect, none should be planted nearer to each other than three times their estimated height. This will afford breath- ing room, and give facilities for seeing them. If the ground can be thrown into rough and uneven ridges, it will show them CEDRUS DEODARA. to most advantage. Nothing can well look worse than the common practice of placing each tree on the top of a little mound, raised on level ground for that purpose. The different classes should be planted in groups, both for the sake of effect and to suit their varying heights ; spruces, larches, Scotch firs, junipers, cedars, , each having their own compartment in the pinoUm. As sometimes the whole of the ground is not moved previous to planting, very large holes will be necessary to secure the well- being of the trees ; from 8 to 10 feet in diameter, and from 3 to 4 feet deep, will the soil can be well trenched, mixed, and returned into the hole two or three months before planting, so much the better. Pinks (nat. ord. Caryophylla'cese). Pinks are closely allied to picotees and carnations, and admit of very similar culti- vation. New varieties may be obtained from seed, and old plants may be increased by pipings. Pipings, as the grass is called when it is pulled out of the joint in the parent stem, should be struck under a handglass, and when well rooted should be planted in a bed, in rows 6 inches apart, and 3 inches between the plants : here they should re- main till September, when they may be planted in a bed or pots, in a compost, con- sisting of two-thirds of loam from decayed turf, and one-third well-decomposed cow dung. If in pots, let them be 48*5, having a few crocks in the bottom, and filled with compost. Lift the plants carefully, with- out breaking the fibres, adjusting the soil so as to place the plant in its proper posi- tion, spreading out the roots on the soil, and filling up the pot to the surface. The roots must not be sunk too deep, but the soil on the top must be on a level with the collar of the plant. When gently watered, the pots may be placed in a common gar- den frame, and the glass closed for four- and-twenty hours. Throughout winter the plants give very little trouble, seldom re- quiring water, but all the air which can be given them. In March they should be re- potted in the pots in which they are to bloom, which should be 24*3, with an inch at least of crocks for drainage ; the soil as before. The soil best suited to receive the young plants is a mixture of good hazel loam, with well-rotted manure from old cucumber or melon frames. This mixture should be made some months before it is required for not be too much for a Wellingtonia. If | use, and at the time of planting or potting PIPINGS, PROPAGATION BY. 372 PLANT COVERS. the layers a little white sea-sand should be added. Where layers of carnations and picotees are potted, the best plan appears to be to place them singly into small pots for the winter months. In this way they can be packed closely under common frames, in old tan or cinder-ashes. Let the newly potted layers have all the air possible in fine weather ; but if the winter prove severe, it will be necessary to cover the glass with mats, straw, or pea-haulm. Pink pipings properly rooted should be planted out in October; avoid the old system of shortening the grass. Where seed is required, the decaying petals should be picked off. See also Carnation. Pipings, Propagation by. This method is applicable to plants with tubular jointed stems, such as the pink and carnation, though the latter are chiefly propagated by layering, as it has been said. It will be remembered that the stem of the pink consists of a series of successive joints or knots, a pair of leaves proceeding from opposite sides of each joint. In order to take the piping, the upper ex- tremity of the shoot is held in the right hand and the lower end in the left hand, and the upper portion is gently pulled till it comes away, exhibiting a tubular or pipe- like termination at the end of the portion of the stem that is thus removed. The pipings are set in fine earth up to first joint above the fracture, the soil is pressed firmly round them, and they are then sprinkled with water from a fine rose, and covered with a handlight. Pit for Cuttings. To preserve cuttings from frost where there is no greenhouse, dig a pit about 4- feet deep, strew the bottom well with ashes, and sink the pots in the same. Over it place a common garden-frame, bank up the outsides with straw and a coating of earth. In such a pit verbenas, calceolarias, ageratums, fuchsias, &c., &c., may be preserved during winter, provided the pots be kept in the dark by being well covered with matting in severe frost. A garden frame may be dispensed with, provided that a bank of turf about 12 or 15 inches thick be raised round the edge of the pit,about the same height behind, and from 6 to 9 inches in front, the sides being sloped from the height of the top to the height of the front, so that a light may be put over the pit in the same position — namely, a sloping position — that it always occupies on the frame. And if there be any objec- tion to making a pit in the soil, one equally serviceable may be made by building the turf to the height of 3 or 4 feet behind, and about 6 inches less in height in front than it is behind. The sides will be sloped, and the whole covered with a garden-light, as described above. Plant Covers or Protectors. These are equally well adapted in the larger sorts and sizes for protecting half- hardy plants and shrubs in the winter season when the weather is more than usually incle- ment, or for protecting plants from the sun in summer, in the smaller sorts, when recently transplanted and in absolute need of shade until new rootlets have been formed, and the plants have thus acquired a fair hold on the soil and the means of extracting moisture and nutriment from it. Some- times the plant cover takes the form of a basket, old hampers answering well for the purpose if they be large enough, but if not, a frame may be made of osiers, or of wooden laths, about I inch wide and £ inch thick, neatly framed together and covered with canvas, matting, or even with netting. It may also take the form of a wooden box or frame, covered with oiled paper, which will be found equally useful for protecting lettuces, cauliflowers, &c., in PLANT HOUSES. 373 PLANTING, GOLDEN RULE IN. the winter, or for striking cuttings in the summer. For the latter purpose, indeed, they are well suited, because the semi- transparency of the paper affords shade to a considerable extent as well as protection, us it admits an imperfect light only, and not full light, as glass. Plant Houses, How Classified. Without protection of some kind during the winter months no collection of plants can be kept together ; but when mere pro- tection is all that is sought, it is easily obtained. A trench 2 feet deep, dug in the ground, if the soil is dry, and a drain at hand to carry off surface water, will suffice, if covered with frames, straw, hurdles, or other efficient covering ; for it is ascertained by numerous experiments that the earth at 2 feet deep is warmer by two or three degrees than the surrounding air in winter. A vacant frame, a cold pit, a greenhouse, or a conservatory, will also either of them serve the purpose. On the other hand, where plants of a warmer climate or season are to be forced into early bloom, or where exotics are culti- vated, artificial heat must be applied, not only to keep out the cold, but to simulate their native climate and atmosphere. The different glazed structures devoted to plant-culture under glass may be classi- fied as the Hothouse, also known as the Plant Stove or Forcing House, the Green- house, and the Conservatory. The arrangements to effect the culture of plants under glass are usually confined to the greenhouse, generally a lean-to structure placed against the wall of some other building, heated by flues or hot- water apparatus, to pits of various con- structions, or to simple frames adapted for heating by hot dung ; while places of greater pretensions add to this a conserva- tory, which is a structure of the same character as the greenhouse, but larger and more ornamental, being, in fact, the showroom of the establishment, to which the finest plants are removed when coming into bloom. A complete range of houses, however, would include, in addition to a conservatory, a place of exhibition foi flowering plants when at their best. 1. The Hothouse, devoted to the culti- vation of orchids, for which it is admirably adapted, or to the production of roses, melons, cucumbers, vines in pots, or, in fact, anything to which it is applied. 2. The Warm Pits, adjoining the hot- house, heated by pipes, but to a less degree than the greenhouse, in which may be placed flowers such as roses, achimenes, Poinsettia pulcherrima, cinerarias, heatbi, epacris, primulas, azaleas, acacias, camel- lias, arums, chrysanthemums, mignonette, cyclamens, and other plants required during the cold season for the windows, the conservatory, and for cut flowers, or which may be devoted to any other of the multifarious uses to which a pit can be applied in winter. 3. The Greenhouse, in which a lower temperature is maintained than in the hot- house or plant stove, but still one that is sufficient for all purposes of plant culture and the protection and propagation of less hardy plants. 4. The Cold Pits, usually adjoining and outside the greenhouse, not heated by pipes, but very useful for growing mignon- ette, violets, stocks, and other things which only require protection. 5. The Conservatory, whose use and purpose has been already set forth above. Planting, Golden Rule in. In planting, except in the smallest places, let it be accepted as the rule — the golden rule, as it may well be termed — that all hardy trees shall be planted in groups or masses by themselves. The different groups can be so arranged, in reference to each other , PLANTING TREES. 374 PLANTING TREES. as to heighten the peculiar characteristics of each. Even in the massing of any kind of tree alone, as, for example, pines, there is scope for considerable judgment and the exercise of great taste ; and their relation to other species of deciduous trees may very much make or mar the beauty of all concerned. Planting Trees. Proper Season. — The time for planting may be in any month from October to Feb- ruary inclusive, but many arguments may be brought forward in favour of the month of November, if the weather be open and free from frosts. Spring is always a busy sea- son in the garden ; digging, sowing, graft- ing, and pruning are then in full operation. " And why should planting be added to the number ? " asks the Rev. Mr. Law- rence. " It makes part of the wise man's pleasure and diversion to have always some- thing to do, and never too much. Amuse- ments and recreations of all kinds should come to us in regular and orderly succes- sion, and not in a crowd ; besides, some intervals of time for meditation between different kinds of work in a garden are very desirable to a good and thoughtful man." Suitable Soils. — The pear loves a silicious earth, of considerable depth ; plums flourish in calcareous soils, and the roots seek the surface ; the cherry prefers a light silicious soil ; and all cease to be productive in moist, humid soils. The apple accommo- dates itself more to clayey soils, 'but does best in a loamy soil of moderate quality, slightly gravelly. In preparing stations, therefore, suitable soils should be supplied to each. Preparation of Stations. — The station is prepared by digging out a pit about 3 feet square, and the same depth, in ground that has been well drained. In the bottom of this oit lay I O or 1 2 inches of brick or lime rubbish , the roughest material at the bottom, and ram it pretty firmly, so as to be impervious to the tap-root ; the remainder of the pit is filled in with earth suitable to the require ments of the tree. When the surrounding soil is a tenacious clay, the roots of the young tree should be spread out just under the surface, and rich light mould placed over them, forming a little mound round the roots ; but in no case should the crown be more than covered : deep planting is the bane of fruit-trees. Treatment of Trees. — The stations being prepared, the trees require attention. It is necessary to prune the roots, by taking ofl all the small fibres, and shortening the larger roots to about 6 inches from the stem ; if there be any bruise, the root in which it occurs should be removed entirely by a clean, sharp cut. Two or three spurs are sufficient ; but if there be more good ones, they may remain, after careful prun- ing. The roots may be laid in milk-and- water or soapsuds a few hours before the trees are planted. Process of Planting. — The process of planting will differ, according as the trees are intended to be dwarf, standard, pyra- mid, or wall- trees. With dwarf, standard, or espalier, place the tree upright in the centre of the sta;ion ; spread the roots care- fully in a horizontal direction, and cover them with prepared mould to the required height, supporting the young plant with a strong stake, driven firmly into the ground, and tying the stem to it with hay, or some- thing that will not bruise; press the soil gently, but firmly, over the extended roots, having first cut away the tap-root. Then mulch the place. This process, called mulching, consists in spreading a layer of short, half-rotten dung 5 or 6 inches thick round the stem, in a radius 6 inches beyond the extremity of the roots ; the mulch spread evenly with the fork, and gently pressed down by the back of the spade, or, if ex- PLANTS, ANNUAL. 375 PLANTS, CLASSIFICATION OF. posed to the wind, pegged down to pre- vent its being blown away. In the case of a wall-tree, let the root be as far from the wall as convenient, with the stem sloping to it, the roots being extended and covered in the same manner with the soil. The nature of the soil is to be regarded, and the tree planted at a greater or smaller elevation above the level of the surrounding soil accordingly ; where the subsoil is a stiff clay, the mound in which it is planted should rise from 9 to 12 inches; in a warm, dry soil a very gentle elevation suffices. The roots should be planted in the richest mould ; and various expedients may be used to keep them moist and cool, and free from canker. The mould requires to be pressed gently round the roots with the hand, so that the soil may be closely packed round them ; with these precautions no fear need be entertained of productive fruit- trees being obtained. Plants, Annual. See Annuals. Plants, Aquatic. See Aquatic Plants. Plants, Arrangements of. A great deal may also be done by proper arrangement of the plants when brought into the house to give an air of order and design, which in themselves have much of the charm of beauty. It is certain that there is often more beauty and satisfaction derived from the orderly arrangement of plants than from the plants themselves. The same principles are applicable here that have been laid down for the embellishment of flower gardens. The widely different circumstances will modify the practice, but the same leading objects must be kept in view ; and where each different tribe of plants has its special house devoted to its use, the practice in the two cases is not so very widely divergent ; but where almost every variety of plants have to be crammed into one house, cultural, rather than artistic, considerations must control the arrange- ment. A leading point in all cases is to have a system, and to make that obvious. This alone leaves the imprint of superin- tending care. The predominance of cultural consider- ations does not necessarily destroy artistic beauty. The grouping of different species together, so essential to the former, is almost as necessary to the latter. Wherever geraniums, heaths, azaleas, camellias, &c., are not only flowered, but grown in one house, the grouping style is not only the best in a cultural sense, but is the most effective. By placing geraniums and other plants in flower in the warmest end of such a house, and heaths at the very coldest, it is amazing what a difference of climate, succession of bloom, and inexhaustible pleasure may be derived from a single house. But if the plants are crushed to- gether higgledy-piggledy in one house, a suffocating sense of confusion and want of space will be the primary impression re- ceived and retained. Even houses of bed- ding plants may be made interesting by grouping the different species. Edgings and lines of demarcation, and different shapes, groups, or masses, on stage, shelves, or floor, may be formed with variegated geraniums, alyssums, cinerarias, &c. Lines of gold or silver-edged gera- niums may not only be stored away, but form beautiful objects on conservatory or greenhouse shelves, to contrast with Chinese primroses, &c. Plants, Bedding. See Bedding Plants. Plants, Biennial. See Biennials. Plants, BulbOUS. See Bulbous Plants. Plants, Classification and Cha- racteristics of. Plants are broadly classified by the PLANTS, CLASSIFICATION OF. 376 PLANTS, CLASSIFICATION OF. character and permanence of the stem, the stem being annual (Latin, annuus, yearly, from annus, a year), biennal (Latin, bien- nis, lasting for two years, from bis, twice, annus, a year), or perennial (Latin, peren- nis, that lasts from year to year, from per, through, annus, a year) — that is to say, lasting for a year, for two years, or for more than two years. Thus, in an annual, the plant is raised from seed sown in the spring, or at the earliest, in the winter preceding the spring, in which it appears above ground, the stem attaining its fullest development in the summer, when the blossom appears and the seed is subse- quently produced and ripened. When the seed is ripe the functions of roots and stem are performed, and the plant dies, to be reproduced from the seed that it has yielded. The various cereals, many vege- tables, and all the flowers popularly termed annuals, are examples of this class. A biennial lives for two years. The seed from which it is raised is sown in the spring, and during the first year of its existence the plant produces leaves, and in some cases develops a fleshy tuberous quasi root, which, though usually called by this name, is not the actual root or roots by which the plant derives nourish ment from the soil. In the second year as spring is ripening into summer, the plant sends up a strong stout stalk, which blossoms and yields seed. When the seed is ripe, the work of the root and stem is done, and the plant perishes. Parsley the carrot, parsnip, and beetroot are ex amples of this class. Perennials differ fro» annuals and bien nials in length of duration. They do no exist for ever, but their life as plants i more than two years, to say the least of it and in some cases has endured for hundred ol years, as is proved by tradition, and tb venerable aspect of the plants that hav< witnessed the birth and death of so man> enerations of men, and have outlived and utlasted even the youngest and latest, bnong such may be named many ancient iaks and forest trees in various parts of the orld, the vine at Hampton Court, and he still more wonderful rose-tree at Hilder- heim, in Germany, which still yields its fra- jrant flowers in rich abundance, is guarded with vigilant care to prevent its propagation, nd has attained an age, it is said, of up- wards of eight hundred years. All peren- nials are not so long lived; they will last a ew years, some dying down to the ground and sending up fresh stems yearly, and others retaining their stems and branches, and shedding their leaves at autumn time, or from time to time gradually and almost mperceptibly, as evergreens ; but many show deterioration in every way as they advance in age, and ultimately perish or are rooted up to make room for plants of a similar kind in the full strength and vigour of a lusty youth. Advantage has been taken of the varying character of perennial plants to classify them in accordance with their habit of growth and appearance. Thus, plants whose stems are soft and succulent, and contain but little woody fibre, and die down to the roots annually to spring up again next year from buds formed at the base of the perished stems, are called herbaceous plants, because their stems par- take more of the nature of grass, the Latin term for grass being herba. The lychnis, the phloxes, some of the delphi- niums or larkspurs, and the Michaelmas daisy, are examples of herbaceous plants. Trees, on the contrary, whose stems are composed of hard woody fibre, are classi- fied as ligneous plants, from the Latin lignum, wood. Shrubs are ligneous plants, by reason of the hardness and toughness of their stems, although they differ widely in height and dimensions from trees properly so called, varying in altitude PLANTS, GREENHOUSE. 377 PLUMS. from about 2 feet to 20 feet. The stems of shrubs throw off an undergrowth at their base, which develop into new stems in time and produce flowers. The rose is an example of the smaller kinds of shrubs, the laurustinus of shrubs of intermediate size, and the arbutus of shrubs of large size. Between herbaceous and ligneous plants is an intermediate link, consisting of plants which partake partly of the nature of each, but are dissimilar to each in some respects. These are termed sub- ligneous plants. The hard lower portions ot the stems of these are lasting, and send forth fresh shoots every year, but the extremities of the shoots thus sent forth perish year after year, and are again re- newed when the plant makes fresh growth. Among these may be named sage, rue, and southernwood. The above comprises all that the ordinary gardener need know with respect to the general classification of plants. Plants, Herbaceous. See Herba- ceous Perennials. Plants, Nature of. Plants may be described as organic bodies, composed of an outer bark or epi- dermis, and an interior, consisting of an irritable elastic cellular tissue, through which the sap necessary for its support rises from the root towards the upper part, namely, the leaves and flowers. Each cell forms a small closed vesicle, a complete laboratory in itself, through whose mem- branes the sap oozes by the process of osmosis, which may be explained as the tendency of fluids to become diffused through a separating membrane when placed in contact with it, and the action produced by this tendency, which is a pushing action or impulse : the cells stand side by side filled with most different matters, which never become intermixed Each of these cells extract from the con- tantly passing current of sap those con- stituents required for its own product ; and when its allotted elaboration is completed, they either are passed on again in a fluid state, or reserved for the future needs of some other part of the plant, or they are used to repair or increase its own solidity. Plants are thus possessed of a vital prin- ciple, only differing in form and intensity from that of animals. Plants, Perennial. See Herbaceous Perennials. Plants, Propagation of. pagation of Plants. See Pro- Plants, Roots Of. See Roots of Plants, what they are. Plants, Suitable for Shade. See Shade, Plants suitable for. Plants, TuberOUS. See Tuberous Plants, Propagation of. Plumbago (nat. ord. Plumbagineae). A genus comprising eight or ten species of plants, mostly perennial, some fitted only for the greenhouse, and others hardy, with flowers, blue, pink, white, or purple in colour. The most noteworthy for green- house culture and decoration is Plumbago Capensis, an admirable pillar plant, capable of being trained to the rafters of a greenhouse. Its flowers are of a beautiful pale blue colour, and in form are very like those of the phlox. It thrives in a compost of rich fibrous loam, sand and peat, and is propagated by shoots from the base of the plant, which have rooted in the sur- rounding soil, or by cuttings, struck in fine loam and sand, in gentle bottom heat. Plums. The following are 28 excellent varieties POINSETTIA. 378 POMPONES. of plums, mostly taken from Bunyard's "Fruit Farming for Profit." Damson plums are marked (D) : — 1. Victoria. 2. Early Orleans. 3. The Czar. 4. Mitchelson. 5. Kent Diamond. 6. Prince Engel- bert. 5. Belgian Purple. . Cox's Emperor. 9. Rivers' Early Prolinc. 10. Pershore. TI. White Magnum Bonum, 12. Pond's Seedling. 13. Old Greengage. 14. Sultan. [pote. 15. Autumn Com- 16. Belle de Septem- bre. 17. Gisborns. 18. Prince of Wales. 19. Grand Duke. 20. Blue Prolific (D). 21. Goliath. 22. La Delicieuse. 23. Old Orleans. 24. Deniston's Su- perb. 25. Kentish Cluster (D). 26. Cheshire or Shropshire (D). 27. Prune (D) 28. Frogmore Dam- son (D). Poinsettia. See Euphorbia for culture. Polyanthus (nat. ord. Primula'cese). This flower is a primula, and is said to be derived from a cross between a cowslip and a primrose, partaking of the nature of POLYANTHUS. the former in the number of its florets, and of the latter in their form. They are generally classified as gold laced, these having flowers with a brilliant yellow edge round the outer part of the petals ; fancy ; and hose-in -hose. After flowering, divide the roots of the best plants intended for preservation. This operation must be performed every year, or the flowers will soon degenerate. Fresh soil and continual division is the only plan with all florists' flowers which give out off- sets. As the polyanthus seeds freely, an infinite variety may be obtained by those who will take the trouble to select or pur- chase seed and sow it. The seed should be sown late in the autumn, for moderate sunlight only is required to bring up the seed, and the young plants will not stand the scorching sun of summer. Sow in boxes, or pans well drained, filled with light rich mould. The seed must be very lightly covered — indeed, it may almost lie upon the surface. The boxes should be placed under glass, and sparingly watered. They require no artificial heat. When divided in the summer after flowering, the young plants should be removed to the reserve garden, and allowed to remain there until they are removed to their bloom- ing quarters in late autumn or early spring. Polygonatum (nat. ord. Lilia'cese). The scientific name of a genus of pretty herbaceous perennials, of which the best known is Polygonatum multiflorum, com- monly called Solomon's Seal. Its feather- like habit of growth, consisting of pairs of light green leaves, from bottom to top of a light bending stem, with pendulous, green and white, flowers springing and hanging I from the axils of the leaves, renders it a highly ornamental and desirable border plant. It thrives in any good garden soil, and will grow in the shade. It is propa- gated by division of the large fleshy roots. Pompones. Pom pones, or Lilliputian Chrysanthe- mums, form a very valuable addition to this tribe of flowers. Beautiful, though small, the pompone will bear any amount of looking into, yet it seems more specially designed to set off and act by way of contrast to its larger rivals, whether it be in the parterre or in the vases of the drawing-room. There is no difference in the method of cultiva- ting these small varieties. For the method j of culture see Chrysanthemums. As new POPLAR, CHIEF VARIETIES. 379 POTATO DISEASE. varieties are constantly being introduced, it is inexpedient to give a list. Poplar and Chief Varieties. The PopuluS) or poplar, is a handsome, quick-growing tree under almost any cir- cumstance of soil and climate. Of this we have several beautiful varieties, of which the most noteworthy are Pop-ulus alba, the Abele poplar ; P. fastigiata, the Lombardy variety ; P. grandidentata, the large American aspen ; and P. treimda pendula, the weeping aspen. Pot- Carriers. A box as shallow but larger than that which is used to make a mould scuttle, but furnished with a handle in a similar manner, will be found useful for carrying plants, when newly potted, from one place to another. Two boxes will be found sufficient for the conveyance of from eight to twelve pots, and this is as much as any one should venture to carry at one time. Cheese boxes may be utilised for this pur- pose, the covers furnishing a circular tray, with a rim about 3 inches high, in which pots may be conveniently carried. For the transfer of cuttings in very small pots, trays of this description will be found extremely useful. Potato. The importance of the potato as a culinary root can scarcely be overrated. Since the appearance of the potato disease about 1845, since which time it has never been wholly absent from the United King- dom, the old sorts which were in cultiva- tion at or before the date just given have almost if not entirely disappeared, and their place has been taken by new sorts raised from seed. At the Potato Inter- national Exhibition in 1880, one hundred and seventy-eight varieties were repre- sented, and since that time the number of sorts has been considerably augmented. The best sorts, or those that are considered the best, from year to year, will be found in the catalogues and price lists of the seedsmen and growers. In growing potatoes it is necessary to look at the work in two aspects, namely, that of grow- ing early potatoes for home use or for market, and that of growing the main crop for use between midsummer and the next planting season, or indeed till new potatoes come again, and, therefore, for storage during the winter months. Potato Disease, Prevention of. A preventative of the potato disease (Phytophora infestans) is to be found in a preparation of French origin known as " Bouillie Bordelaise." It was tried with signal success in 1892 by Messrs. James Carter & Co., seed merchants, High Hoi- born, in a series of experiments ranging from July to September in that year, or one of their experimental farms near Bromley, Kent, and the result renders the mixture of the highest importance to all potato growers. The mixture required foi an acre of potatoes is composed of 22 Ib. of sulphate of copper, 22 Ib. of unslaked lime, and 100 gallons of water, the sulphate of copper being of the Macclesfield patent, and of the standard of 98 per cent, purity. It is best applied in the form of spray over the haulm and leaves by a machine in- vented by Mr. G. F. Strawson, and called the "Anti-pest." The experiment was tried on about an acre of potatoes of vari- ous kinds, divided into four portions, each set similarly with all the kinds of potatoes used. Of these, two were dressed with the " Bouillie Bordelaise," and two were not. In one of the dressed sections 90 per cent, and in the other 100 per cent, of sound tubers were found, when the potatoes were dug, against 80 per cent, in the un- dressed sections, and the weight of the POTATO DISEASE. 380 POTATOES, EARLY. ubers in the dressed section was much greater than in the undressed sections. The following directions are given by Messrs. Carter & Co. for the preparation and use of the " Bouillie Bordelaise." " Mix 8 Ib. of pure sulphate of copper in about 3 gallons of hot water, and after all is dissolved add 7 gallons of cold water. In another vessel mix 15 Ib. of good burnt unslaked lime with 3 gallons of water, to be carefully stirred until all the lumps disappear. This lime mixture is then to be poured into and mixed with the dissolved sulphate of copper, and the whole, when cold, is then ready for use. " The mixture should be applied two or three times in a season — (i) when the tops are about 3 inches high ; (2) when the tops approach maturity ; (3) at the discretion of the user, always bearing in mind that an application should be made at the first sign of the disease appearing in the foliage of the potato. " The mixture may be applied by any liquid distributor, or even with a syringe, care being taken that the foliage is well covered by it, and, if the above propor- tions are carefully observed, we [Messrs. James Carter & Co.] believe no risk of damage to the crop need be feared, as the lime, when incorporated with the dissolved copper, destroys any injurious properties the copper might otherwise possess. " The total average cost of the quantities of copper and lime named above is about 35. 6d." The cost of the dressing, roughly speaking, is £i per acre. This area, on an average, will produce 2 tons of potatoes, which at present (1892) prices range from j£3 I os. to £4 per ton, so that it is clearly worth while for potato growers to effect what is practically an insurance, at a com- paratively small cost, of a crop, which, but for preventives against disease, must always be precarious. Potatoes, Early, in Frames. When potatoes are grown in a frame, the treatment is much the same as before ; but some grow them very successfully in this manner : — The frame being placed on a level piece of ground, the soil within is dug out to the depth of 2 feet, and banked round the outside of the frame. The pit thus formed is then filled with prepared dung ; on this 3 inches of soil is placed ; then the potatoes, then 6 inches more soil. The potatoes, when planted, should be just starting into growth ; but the shoots should never be more than half an inch from the tuber, or they do not grow so strong. It is advisable to pick off some of the shoots ; three on each tuber is sufficient. Potatoes may be forced under the stand in a hothouse or greenhouse, the potatoes being planted singly in large pots of very light rich soil. Each pot ought to yield a good dish. Potatoes, Early, in Melon Pits. For the purpose of growing very early potatoes, nothing is more suitable than a broad, roomy melon pit — an excellent use to make of it. The potatoes will be fit for use about the time for planting out the melons. About the beginning of January, let some middling-sized tubers be laid in a warm and moderately dry place, well exposed to the light ; here they will make short plump shoots by the time the bed is ready. Prepare a quantity of dung suf- ficient to make a bed 3 feet 6 inches in depth. By the end of the month the bed will be ready ; then lay on 3 inches of soil, and place the potatoes 15 inches apart, covering them with 6 inches more of soil. Some seed of the scarlet short-top radish may be scattered over the surface. As these begin to grow, give abundance of fresh air in mild weather, so that neither potatoes nor radishes be drawn up ; and as they come up, remove the radishes from POTATOES, EARLY. POTATOES, MAIN CROP. immediately about the crowns of the potatoes ; earthing up the latter will not be required. The radishes will draw in March ; the potatoes early in May. Potatoes, Early, in Open Ground. For early crops, plant as early in Jan- uary as the ground can be found in fair working condition. A small breadth of the ash-leaved kidney should be planted on a south border, or in the warmest and most sheltered situation at command, to furnish an early supply. In planting, let the ground be neatly levelled, then, beginning at one side, dig it over about 6 inches deep, and put in the sets in the openings at proper distances, which must be regu- lated by the growth of the variety. The lines for the early kinds, as ash-leaved, &c., which form but small tops, may be about 20 inches apart, leaving about 9 inches between the sets. The sets should be covered about 6 inches, leaving the soil over them as open and loose as possible. On strong, heavy land the ash-leaved and other weakly growers should not be covered more than 4 inches. Planting in autumn has been strongly recommended, and on light, well-drained land, it may safely be practised — the crop will probably be both earlier and more abundant than from late winter or spring planting. All things con- sidered, planting early in spring is to be preferred. Potatoes, Main Crop. Soil. — A deep, thoroughly drained, light sandy loam, or peaty soil, is most suitable for the potato, although there are many sorts specially suitable for cold and heavy soils. The ground selected should be in fair condition, from having been moderately manured for some exhausting green crop in the previous season. But if the only land to be had is so poor as to render it neces- sary to apply manure in order to insure a fair crop, then use charred vegetable refuse, or a very light dressing of well-decayed farm or stable-yard manure. The ground should be trenched two spades deep, and ridged up early in autumn ; if manure is applied, this should be well mixed with the soil. Charred vegetable refuse, how- ever, may be applied about the sets when they are planted. A slight sprinkling scattered along the trench before planting, and then used in covering the sets, is said to have proved a partial preventive of disease. When to Plant. — The main crop should be got in late in March, or early in April. As the ground is more likely to be dry at this time, they may be dibbled in whole, thus yielding food for the young shoot till it can find its own — a most reasonable assumption, and worthy of adoption. When potatoes are cut, it is best to expose them for a day or two, to render the surface of the cut callous. In planting them, let it be in rows 2 feet apart ; or, if space is not limited, allow 3 feet, which admits of planting later crops between, before they are taken up. Although little is gained by allowing too much room, much is lost by allowing too little ; for root crops are apt to run all to haulm or top if too crowded. Two feet from row to row, and 15 inches from plant to plant, is a good average. Mode of Planting. — If the ground is light or dry, the tubers, either entire or in pieces, as may be preferred, may be dibbled in ; that is, a line is stretched where the row is to be, on one side of which the holes are made with a potato dibber — this is a pole or shaft 3 feet long, having a cross-piece of wood on the top for the handle, and a tread for the foot 8 inches from the lower end, and of suf- ficient thickness tu make a hole that a POTATOES, MAIN CROP. 382 POTATOES, STORING. potato may drop in easily. A potato or set is dropped in each hole, and filled up by drawing a wooden rake over' them. But it is objected to this, and rightly enough, that the pressure of the dibber hardens the soil all round, and checks the spreading of the young tubers ; making drills with a spade, and planting that way, is therefore preferable ; or they may be planted as the ground is dug, merely placing a line, cutting the drill, placing the potatoes 15 inches apart, then digging backward 2 feet, placing the line, cutting another drill, and so on. The main crop may be planted about the end of March or beginning of April, as already said, or it may be deferred till quite the end of the latter month, and smaller plantings may be made till midsummer. Planting in Heavy Soil. — If the ground is wet, heavy, or, indeed, under any circumstances, a good plan is to cut a drill with the spade 6 or 8 inches deep. In this place the sets 15 inches apart, then move the line to the next row, cut another drill in the same manner, but fill up the preceding drill with the soil taken out, covering the sets in it. This is an expe- ditious mode, and will do on any soil. On stiff soils the dibber should never be used, because it forms a basin in which water is likely to stand and rot the potato. After-management. — When potatoes have grown 8 or 10 inches high, a little earth should be drawn up to them, just sufficient to cover any tubers that may grow near the surface ; but too much earthing up produces luxuriance of growth in the haulm, and is contrary to nature. The ground should be thoroughly drained. It is generally admitted that the disease is most prevalent in wet soils or wet seasons. Some recommend cutting off the haulm as soon as the blight appears ; this may save them in a great measure from the rot, but slops the growth of the tubers, and whether any real advantage is derived from it is still undecided. It is advisable to pick off all the flowers, unless seed is wanted, as doing so will throw the strength of the plant into the process of forming tubers. In the case of the early varieties, which may be in danger of suffering from the frost, the soil should be kept ridged up round the shoots as soon as they appear above the ground, keeping them covered until they are 4 to 6 inches high, and all danger of frost is past. Before earthing up, fork the ground lightly between the lines, so as to pulverise the soil, then draw it to the plants with a hoe or spade. Keep the ground clear of weeds. Potatoes, Storing. When the haulm has thoroughly withered and died down, the tubers are fully ripe, and should be. taken up for storage during the winter months. Care should be taken to prevent the frost from obtaining access to the tubers, and if they cannot be put away within doors, which can only be done in the case of comparatively small quantities, the best way to preserve them is in pits covered in, or " caves," as they are usually called in the West of England. To make these, a warm and sheltered position is chosen under a high hedge, and if possible, with a slight fall away from the hedge. A space is then cleared away about 3 or 4 feet in width, and as long as may be necessary, and the roots are then piled up against the hedge, sloping upwards from the outer edge of the space that has been cleared, and they are then covered in with wheat straw, over which a thick coating of earth is thrown, taken from a trench dug out at each end and in front of the cave. When a supply is required one end of the cave is opened and closed again when a sufficient quantity has been removed. When there is no hedge to form a backing, and it is necessary to make the cave on the POTATOES, SUITABLE SORTS. 383 POTATOES, SUITABLE SORTS, open ground, the roots are piled up so as to form a ridge like the roof of a house, slanting outwards on both sides from the top. They are then covered with straw and earth as before, the trench from which the earth is taken affording drainage to carry off the water that trickles from the exterior of the cave in wet weather. Roots of all kinds, except onions, perhaps, may be stored through the winter in this manner. Potatoes, Suitable Sorts of. In Hooper's "Gardening Guide" the following is given as " the result of much experience upon different soils," and will be found a useful guide m suiting the sorts to be grown to the character of the soil in which they are to be planted: — "(i) For very light soils : Try almost any kind, avoiding Magnum Bonum, Covent Garden Perfection, Alpha, Schoolmaster, and Fenn's varieties generally. (2) For medium soils : There is no restriction in this. (3) For heavy soils : choose Grampian, Ash Leaf, Schoolmaster, Regent, Magnum Bonum, Covent Garden Perfection, and Gordon's Victoria Regent. "t "The following are named as good sorts of potatoes, but many of them are now but little grown : — WHITE KIDNEY. Ash-leaf Kidney. Breadfruit. Breesee's Prolific. Covent Garden. Early King. Fluke. International. L/apstone. Magnum Bonum. Mona's Pride. Myatts's Prolific. Pride of America. §ueen of the Valley, nowflake. Woodstock. BLUE KIDNEY. Manhattan. RED KIDNEY. geauty of Hebron. Early Rose. Extra Early Vermont. Superior. Trophy. Wonderful. RED ROUND. Adirondack. Beauty of Kent. Brownell's Beauty. Grampian. Red Emperor. Triumph. Red-skinned Flower- ball. PARTI-COLOURED ROUND. Blanchard. Radstock Beauty. WHITE ROUND, Alpha. Climax. Dalmahoy. Dunbar Regent. Early Oxford. Gordon's Victoria Re- gent. Matchless. Paterson's Victoria, --orter's Excelsior. Reading Hero. Schoolmaster. Scotch Champion. York Regent. BLUE ROUND. Forty-Fold. Hooper's Blue. Vicar of Laleham. Round Appended, for the guidance of potato growers who may be- desirous of trying new varieties, the following lots of potatoes recently introduced have been extracted from the catalogues (1892) of Messrs. James Carter and Co., High Holborn, London, W.C. ; Messrs. Daniels Bros., Norwich ; and Messrs. Sutton and Sons, Reading. In two out of the three lists given below numbers will be found following the name of each variety. No. I in- dicates potatoes belonging to the First Early Section ; No. 2, the Second Early Section ; No. 3, the Mid-season Section ; and No. 4, Main Crop and Late Varieties. When ordering seed potatoes for trial, the purchaser is advised to mention the kind of soil in which the tubers are to be planted when writing to the grower, and to leave it to him to select the sorts best suited to the character of the ground. i. FROM MESSRS. JAMES CARTER AND Co.'s SEED CATALOGUE. Ashtop Flake, — a white kidney ; the handsomest potato in commerce. Cosmopolitan, — a handsome potato, of splendid quality, and excellent for field crops. First Crop,— earliest, most prolific, and best kid- ney in cultivation. Holoorn Abundance, — disease - resisting. As productive as Magnum Bonum, with the better qualities of its parents — White Elephant and Snowflake. H oiborn Perfection, — in shape a flat oval ; flesh yellowish white, of fine flavour. Holborn Prolific, — valuable as an exhibition potato, or for table and market purposes. Holborn Reliance, — produces prolific crops of large, even-sized potatoes of best quality. Imperator, — a main crop white oval, of handsome appearance, and disease proof. King of the Russets, — absolutely free from disease ; yields 8 tons per acre, iiagnum Bonum (reselected), — said to be the ! heaviest cropping potato ever known- POTATOES, SUITABLE SORTS. 384 POTATOES, TRENCHING. Sukreta, — a roundish potato, of handsome form and excellent quality. Surprise, — a splendid keeper, an enormous cropper, flesh white and floury. The Cannon, — a heavy cropper; one of the best main crop kidney potatoes ever raised. 2. FROM MESSRS. DANIELS BROS.' LIST. Colonel Long, — Tubers large, smooth, long, and handsome ; very good croppers, floury, and of very good flavour when cooked. New seedling. Dreadnought (4), — new disease-resisting main crop variety, resembling but excelling " M.ignum Bonum." Early Crimson Flourball (i), — A handsome round red potato, of excellent quality. Early Puritan (i), — an early variety of great excellence, vigorous constitution, and very pro- ductive. Early White Hebron (i),— the finest first early white-skinned potato in the world. Emperor Frederick, — Fine exhibition potato ; tubers large, and of kidney shade, of rich purple colour mottled with crimson ; flesh white, dry, mealy, and of good flavour when cooked. Future Fame (4), — "Magnum Bonum'' type, but earlier; great disease-resister, heavy cropper. Golden Flourball (4),— a fine, late, yellow-fleshed potato ; a good keeper. Harbinger (i), — a first early round variety of great excellence ; haulm short. Indian Prince, — very handsome black kidney, flesh white and floury when cooked ; excellent cropper ; looks well when exhibited. New seedling. King Kidney (4),— robust grower and disease- resister, producing heavy crops. Long Keeper (4), — fine red round variety of Red Skin Flourball type ; good cropper ; late keeper ; tubers when cooked are white, firm, and dry, but not mealy. Lye's Seedling, — handsome tubers of long white kidney shape ; excellent croppers, good cooker ; fine for exhibition. Norfolk Blackbird (4),— a black potato, the colour of the skin penetrating deeply into the flesh, and sometimes producing a marbled appearance when cut. Princess May, — very handsome red kidney, flat in shape ; flesh of excellent quality when cooked ; good cropper, and useful for exhibition. New seedling. Purple Prince (4), — tubers round, and bright purple in colour shaded with crimson ; heavy cropper ; cooks well ; and most desirable lor exhibition. Red Robin (4),— a late variety of kidney potato ; a good cropper, and delicious in flavour. Reliable (2), — handsome white kidney, of ex- cellent cooking qualities ; excellent cropper ; useful for exhibition. New seedling. Remarkable, — a first-class cropping variety; a good keeper, of splendid table qualities. Royal Norfolk Russet (4), — one of the most remarkable potatoes ever raised ; tubers rough, flesh white, floury when boiled. Synonymous with "Village Blacksmith." Special (4^, — a novelty, of handsome appearance, of excellent quality. Table King (4),— a second early, forming a. valuable market variety. The Daniels (4), — cross between Magnum Bonum and White Elephant, combining good qualities of both. Universal (4),— round white potato ; first-rate cropping variety, and excellent keeper. 3. FROM MESSRS. SUTTON AND SONS' LIST. Abundance (4), — excellent disease resisting potato for field crops ; superior to Magnum Benum in productiveness ; excellent when cooked ; useful for exhibition. Ashleaf (i), — splendid potato, earlier, heavier cropper, shorter in haulm than others of this class. Best of All (4), — has few equals as cropper ; very free from disease ; flesh white and excellent when cooked. Early Eclipse (i),— especially valuable for forcing and early borders ; white flesh, excellent shape, short, small haulm. Early Regent (2), — excellent keeper; disease resisting ; flesh white and floury when cooked. First and Best (i), — a flattish-round potato; excellent for forcing and early borders ; abundant cropper ; haulm short and compact. iv. agnum Bonum (4) — Enormous cropper, of high quality, and almost free from disease. Masterpiece (4), —tubers round and heavy, with rough skin ; flesh firm and white, excellent when cooked ; heavy cropper, and disease-resisting. M atchless (3), — abundant cropper ; very free from disease ; flesh white, and of excellent quality when cooked ; keeps well for winter use. Perfection (3), — Tubers kidney -shaped ; flesh white and of good flavour ; cooks well ; excellent cropper ; haulm strong and erect. Ringleader (i), — earliest kidney in cultivation ; white in flesh, short in haulm ; robust. Satisfaction (4), — splendid cropper; tubers of a thick pebble shape, with rough skin ; very free from disease. Button's Seedling (2), — large handsome tubers with russet skin ; cooks well, and of good flavour. I riumph (4), —tubers white, with rough skin resembling the old Fluke ; enormous cropper ; originally raised from Magnum Bonum. Vv hite Kidney (2), — disease-resisting ; enormous cropper ; flesh white ; haulm short and compact. Windsor Castle (2), — may be described as a dwarf Magnum Bonum, of erect habit and dark green foliage ; flesh white, firm, and of good flavour ; excellent cropper. Potatoes, Trenching. There are better modes of planting potatoes than by dibbling, which is not a desirable method, if the soil is inclined to be heavy, or has a tendency to dry and harden into cakes and clods in dry weather One of these modes, in which the soil is disposed in a series of ridges, is shown in POTENTILLA. 385 POTS AND WATER SAUCERS. the accompanying diagram. A shallow j The dwarf kinds are well suited for rock' trench is taken out with the spade about work. The Marsh Cinquefoil is a poten- 6 inches deep, and from 20 to 24 inches tilla. in width, and the tubers are set along the centre of each successive trench about the Pots and Water Saucers. same distance apart. The earth taken ou l These are too well known to need much of the next trench fills up the trench just furnished with tubers, and prepares the trench for the next row just as the earth from A has filled up B, the earth from B having filled C, and so on for D, &c. The trenches should run from east to west, if possible, and the soil disposed in ridges so as to present a short, steep slope to the north, and a longer incline at a more gentle gradient to the south. When the young shoots make their appearance above ground, the crest of each ridge affords useful protection to them until they have outtopped it. The soil is lightened by being broken thoroughly and thrown up with the spade, and in this condition permits more readily the entrance of air and moisture. Potentilla (nat. ord. Rosa'cea). A genus of plants some of which bear a resemblance to the strawberry in flower and manner of propagation by runners, inasmuch that they are sometimes taken for wild strawberries. It must be understood that the resemblance is not general, but is confined to some species included in the genus, many being shrubby herbaceous perennials ranging from i foot to 3 feet in height. These are propagated by division of the roots and by seed. The flowers are chiefly white or yellow, but some species bear red or purple flowers. description, as far as the ordinary descrip- tion of flower pot is concerned. The majority of those in use are unattractive in form, if convenient, and are made of common potter's clay, similar to that which is used for making the better and softer kinds of bricks. The best, perhaps, that can be had are those made at Weston-super- Mare, which are good and cheap. The shape of the common pot and saucer are shown in the accompanying illustration. Pots should always be unglazed, to admit of the escape and absorption of water when neces- sary ; but the interior of the water saucers POTENTILLA. 26 should always be glazed co prevent absorp- tion of the water that escapes into them Tt is convenient, indeed, to fill the saucers, POTS AND WATER SAUCERS. 386 POTS AND WATER SAUCERS. in which the pots are standing, with water, in hot weather, when the water will ascend in the sides of the pots by capillary attrac- tion, and keep the roots and the earth that surround them moist and cool. This may be better effected by standing the pot in which the plant is placed within another just large enough to receive it. It is better to treat in this manner all plants that require plenty of water, especially during the summer, such as arums, when they cannot be transferred to the ground in the open air, oleanders, &c. Pots that have been used should always be well cleansed by washing before they are used again, especially when they have been put by for ORDINARY FLOWER POT. some time. It is absurd to advise amateurs not to use or buy old pots, for when they have been well soaked for a few hours in cold water, and then well washed and scrubbed in hot soda water, they very nearly recover their original colour, and ire as serviceable as when they were pur- chased new from the maker. Pots should always be soaked and washed before they are used for potting ; even new pots should be put in water, for the porosity of the pot renders it a ready absorbent of moisture, and a dry pot will draw away the moisture from the earth in which a newly potted plant has been placed, and therefore from the plant itself. Another reason for potting plants in clean pots is, that the roots will seek and travel along the sides of a clean pot far more readily than they will, or indeed can, along the sides of a pot that is encrusted with dry dirt. Pots are generally made in what are termed casts — that is to say, a certain quantity of clay is taken, from which one pot is made, or two, four, six, eight, twelve, sixteen, twenty-four, thirty-two, forty-eight, sixty, or eighty ; and pots are therefore known to gardeners as ones, twos, fours, &c., according to the number of pots made from a single cast. This nomenclature is always puzzling to the amateur, who never knows precisely what number he wants, and so can best express his wants by measuring the outside diameter of the sized pot he requires and mentioning the number of inches to the nurseryman, who is at once able to tell what his customer wants, being thoroughly con- versant with numbers and their sizes. It would be more convenient if the old system were abandoned altogether, and if numbers, from No. I onwards, were used to indicate successive sizes. This may be done at some potteries, for at different potteries different practices prevail ; but the Chiswick standard, as it is called, is that which is most generally adopted for distinguishing the sizes of pots, and it will be convenient, as this is in most general use, to give this, with the diameter and depth of each size, inside measurement ', and the price, singly and per dozen. Sizes. Diam. Top in Ins. Depth in Ins. Price. Singly. Per Doz. s. d. s. d. Thimbles . 2 2 o oi 0 3 Thumbs 22 2i o o| o 4 Sixties 3 3i o of o 5 Fifty-fours . 4 4 o o:| o 6 Forty-eights 5 0 1 o 9 Thirty-twos. 6 6 0 ij i 3 Twenty-fours 84 8 0 2 2 O Sixteens °i 9 o 34 3 6 Twelves 112 10 o 4* 4 6 Eights . 12 ii o 6~ 6 o Sixes | 13 12 o 10} i 10 6 Fours . •s 13 i 6 17 6 Twos . 18 X4 2 6 30 o Ones . . | 20 16 4 6 54 ° POTS, CRUTE'S CONCAVE. 387 POTS, CRUTE'S CONCAVE. The above measurements may be taken as the general average of each size, and every pot in a cast will approximate very closely to the size given. Indeed, it is wonderful to find how similar pots belong- ing to a cast are in form and dimensions, FIG. I.— SECTION OF POT, SHOWING INTERIOR AND FORM OF BASE. considering that they are not moulded, but fashioned on a wheel. The above sizes, as it has been said, and the numbers also, are according to the Chiswick standard, which is understood and followed by nurserymen ; ; the prices per dozen and singly are nursery- men's prices, or may be taken as a fair j scale of the prices one would expect to pay if buying of a nurseryman and not direct from the maker. Pots, Crute's Patent Concave. This variety of flower pot forms a very desirable addition to existing garden and greenhouse appliances of the kind. The flower pot itself is well shaped and well | made, and differs from the ordinary earthen ! flower pot in being straighter in the sides j and deeper and wider in the base ; conse- j quently, if one of the concave flower pots ! be taken and one of the ordinary shape, j both being the same in diameter at the top, the former will be both longer and larger at the bottom, and therefore afford more | room for mould and the roots of the plant, i This will be seen from Fig. I, which gives a sectional view of the pot, and shows its j interior and the shape of the bottom, which is concave, like the l.ottom of a wine bottle, and is perforated with a large hole in the centre and three smaller holes at the sides, which afford an immediate escape for any surplus water when it reaches the channel that encircles the bottom of the pot inside. Fig 2, which exhibits a view of the exterior of the bottom, shows the relative position of the holes just described and three grooves in the edge of the bottom, which facilitate the passage of the external air into and upwards in the pot, thus ventilating its centre, and tend- ing to induce vigorous plant growth. The pots are not now to be obtained, the patentee, Mr. J. Crute, having retired ; but a description of them is retained here, as a revival of them is desirable. The sizes and prices of pots per dozen were as follows: — 4$ inch, Qd. ; 5^ inch, is. ; 6 inch, 2s. ; 7 inch, 35. ; 8£ inch, 45. 6d. ; 10 inch, 6s. ; the size in every case being the top diameter. The larger sizes were sold singly — 12 inches at is. ; 14 inches at is. 6d. ; 16 inches, 3-;. 6d. ; 1 8 inches, 6s. ; and 20 inches, IDS. 6d. Cap used with Crute's Pots. — The Patent Caps, which are shown in Fig. 3, and which resemble small saucers, pierced with five holes at the bottom, and grooved in FIG. 2.— PLAN OR VIEW OF OUTSIDE OR BOTTOM OF PIT. three places in the upper edge, are used instead of crocks, and before potting any plant one of these is placed inside the pot, POTS, CRUTE'S CONCAVE. ?88 POTS, DIFFERENT FORMS OF. on the bottom, and immediately over the large hole in the bottom of the pot itself. The caps may be used with ordinary pots ; they induce perfect drainage, save crocking, a troublesome proceeding to many amateurs, and facilitate repotting, for when a stick with a diameter larger than the hole in the bottom of the cap is pushed through the hole in the bottom of the pot, cap. mould, and plant are lifted out of the pot al- together, and may be easily transferred to another and larger pot, or placed in the ground. The caps are supplied at 6d. per dozen. Merits of Crutfs Pot and Cap.— The merits claimed for Crute's pot and cap are FIG. 3. — PATBNT CAP, USED AS A SUBSTITUTE FOR CROCKS. that by their use flowers and plants may be grown to perfection without trouble, that perfect drainage is provided, the use of crocks is greatly abridged, if not saved altogether, ventilation, and aeration in the interior of the pot is secured, and evapora- tion lessened. It is further stated that insects and worms, through the peculiar construction of the bottom, are prevented from entering the pot ; but this is doubtful. It is certain, however, that the construc- tion of the bottom will prevent clogging where the pots are plunged in earth, and thus the pots are therefore especially w.ell suited for plants that are kept within doors during the winter and spring, and plunged in the open ground in summer and autumn. In repotting from these pots, when patent caps are used, the plant remains erect, and is not turned upside down, or very nearly so, as is the case in taking plants out of ordinary pots. All that is necessary is to place the pot over an upright stick, which should pass through the bottom, when with gentle pressure the plant with the earth intact remains in the hands, the empty pot sliding down the stick. Pots, Different Forms of. There are other kinds and forms of pots which require mention. Among these may be specified as being most noteworthy : — (1) Long Toms. — Pots without rims, made only in the smaller sizes — that is to say, from about 2^ inches to 5 inches in diameter, and about half as deep again as ordinary pots, with diameters ranging between these two extremes. They are not so shapely in appearance as the ordinary pots, nor so convenient for general purposes, but they are serviceable for growing hyacinths and other bulbs. (2) Oxfords. — These are pots with broad rims pierced with holes, which afford the means of tying down the branches of plants that require training of this descrip- tion the better to exhibit their blossoms, &c. The holes are further useful for hold- ing the points of wires to which trellises are attached, or to which plants or their branches may be tied. (3) Pots with Double Rims. — Pots so called resemble the Oxford pots in so far that the rim is utilised for a special purpose by increasing its breadth, so that both kinds, in point of fact, are really pots with broad rims. In the class of pot now under con- sideration the rim is not pierced as in the Oxford pots, but is grooved in order to receive the edge of a bell-glass to be placed, if necessary, over any plant or cuttings in the pot. By this mode of con- struction plant space within the rim of the POTS, DIFFERENT FORMS OF. 389 POTS, DIFFERENT FORMS OF. pot is not abridged, and cuttings can be placed close to or against the sides of the pot, which is not possible if the cover- ing glass stands on the soil. The double- rimmed pot, therefore, possesses special advantages as a propagating pot, and if water or wetted sand be placed in the grooved rim, and the edge of the bell-glass be covered by one or the other rising above it, the pot will be converted for the time into a miniature Wardian case, as no air can find its way into the interior of the glass under its edges. (4) Pots for Orchids. — The conditions under which orchids grow and are grown differ in "many respects from those under which ordinary plants are cultivated in pots. As a general rule, the roots of plants do not seek egress from the pot, unless they find themselves cramped too closely within its limits, and make their way through the drainage and out of the hole at the bottom of the pot to seek nutriment from any moisture that there may be in the saucer and from the air ; they do not court exposure, otherwise than this, to the air and light. The orchid, however, delights to thrust its thick and fleshy roots into the air, and requires aeration in the soil more than any other class of plants. Orchid pots or pans are therefore perforated with holes of various shapes, both in the bottom and all round the sides from bottom to rim, and provision is frequently made by holes just below the rim by which they can be suspended from the roof, &c., of any build- ing. Through these holes the air can as easily obtain access to the roots of the plants, and the roots can as readily make their way into the air. Some orchid pots are made with false bottoms, removable from the pot at pleasure, and also per- forated. Orchids require thorough drainage, as well as aeration of the material in which they are grown, and this is also well pro- vided for by the structure of the orchid pot. Orchid baskets, which are of the greatest importance and utility in orchid growing, are supplied by various makers of requisites for growing these plants, in sizes ranging from 3 inches to 12 inches in diameter, and at prices ranging from 45. 6d. per dozen for the smallest size named to 255. per dozen for the largest. Rafts and boats for these beau- tiful plants are supplied 6y dealers at id. each the former and i^d. each the latter, and cylinders at 2d. per inch run, This will furnish the grower with some idea of the cost of the necessary appliances. ( 5 ) Dotible Pots for A Ipine Plants. — Pots of this description are manufactured in pairs, the outer vessel forming a receptacle for the inner vessel, in which the plant itself is set. The inner pot is made in the usual way, with a means of escape for surplus water at the bottom, but the outer pot is not. Thus, water or damp moss or cocoanut fibre may be placed in the outei pot, and thus the roots of the plant in the inner receptacle and the soil in which it grows may be kept cool and at an equal temperature, even in the heat of summer. The material of which these double pota are made is better than that which is used for ordinary pots, and not nearly so porous, and this prevents any considerable absorp- tion of water by the inner pot. (6) Seed Pans. — Earthenware pans for raising seed and for striking small cuttings are similar in shape to saucers, but are, oJ course, very much larger. They are usually provided with three holes in the bottom for drainage, and are made in different sizes. (7) Ornamental Pots, Vases, Baskets, dr^. — These are generally made in terra cotta, and are attractive in appearance, though of no greater utility than the ordinary flower pot. They are produced in various forms and shapes, from that of the ordinary flower pot and seed pan, relieved with bands disposed in imit.it ion POTS, DOUBLE, SUBSTITUTE. 390 POTS, DOUBLE, SUBSTITUTE. of trellis work on the exterior, to the rustic jardiniere, which is usually fashioned to resemble the trunk of a tree. This re- ceptacle for plants is open at the top and pierced with holes at the sides, whose sides project from the main structure after the manner of boughs that have been sawn off short. Although it is^not possible to give the prices of these in detail, it may be said as some guide to the intending buyer, that with regard to Long Toms, their price is much the same as the common pots. Oxfords, double-rimmed pots, Alpine pots, and orchid pots and pans cost from half as much again to twice as much as the ordinary pots. Seed pans are about the same in price as pots of the same diameter. Ornamental pots command much higher prices, which vary according to size. Small f.vaantities of pots may be bought by the amateur of the nearest nurseryman, but gardeners and all who require them in icirge quantities .will go direct to the manufacturers. Pots, Double, Substitute for. Pots are absolutely necessary to all who take to pot culture of plants for green- houses, conservatories, and window garden- ing and their low price brings them within ,:he reach of all. For everything else the im^teur, the cottager, and the professional gardener of limited means may easily pro- vide a substitute. For the double pot, one plunged within a larger one will answer the purpose. This outer pot may have the hole in the bottom plugged with a cork, or otherwise stopped, and the inner pot may be raised within the other, so as not to rest on the bottom, by a wire trivet, a few crocks, or even a small saucer turned upside down, so that space may be obtained between the inside of the outer pot and the outside of the inner pot wherein to put water, damp moss, cocoanut fibre, or any substance that is retentive of water. The use of the double-rimmed pot is advocated for the better growing of cuttings, because the cuttings can be placed against the side of the pot, but any one may do as well without them as with them by resorting to a contrivance such as exhibited in the accompanying illustration. In this the outer pot is partially filled with mould or compost of a light and porous nature, and a small pot, whose bottom has been plugged with cork so as to fill the hole in it, is placed on the mould so that its rim is about an inch above the rim of the outer pot. More soil is then put in SIMPLE CONTRIVANCE FOR STRIKING CUTTINGS. the outer pot until it is from i inch to £ inch below its rim, and by doing this the inner pot is partially buried. The inner part is then filled with water, and the cuttings are placed round it. A bell-glass is then placed over the whole. The cut- tings are kept moist by absorption of the water in the inner pot through its sides into the soil without, and there is no necessity to water them or the soil in , which they are set. Sometimes the inner ^ pot is filled with mould and the cuttings are placed round its edge ; when this is I done, the outer pot should be filled with POTS FOR BLANCHING. 3. cocoanut fibre or sand, and this should be kept moist. Pots for Blanching. Before Quitting the subject of pots, it is necessary to stale that potsof coarse earthen- ware are made and supplied for cover- ing up seakale and rhubarb in the winter months, in order to induce growth in the latter and to blanch or whiten the growing heads of the former, which would otherwise be tough and uneatable. These pots are placed over the plants named, and litter, or manure in which straw abounds, and leaves are placed around and about them. Thus the temperature within the pot is raised, the plant is started into growth, and the exclusion of the light prevents the stalks and leaves from assuming the colours they present when growing in the open air. Blanching pots for rhubarb are long and comparatively narrow, something like a chimney pot of common shape ; pots for seakale are wider and shorter, and rounded at the top. Both are open at the top as well as at the bottom, and provided with covers, which can be taken off when it is desired to inspect the growth of the plant within. These pots cost, for rhubarb, 12 inches diameter, i8s., and 16 inches diameter, 245. per dozen ; for seakale, the same sizes, I2s. and i8s. per dozen. Pots, Orchid, Substitute for. It is by no means difficult to convert an ordinary flower pot into an orchid pot by making holes in it with a brace and small bit, enlarging them, when once carried through the ware, with a rose bit. A soft pot should be chosen for this kind of work, and when boring the holes the interior of the pot should be filled with some soft substance, say, felt rags, tightly stuffed within it. The operation is perhaps some- what difficult and tedious, but it can be done. Orchids, moreover, will grow in POTTING. baskets made of wire, or even of bits of stick or wood strung together on wires that are first passed through a wooden bottom, or otherwise connected. Potting: Its General Principles and their Application. In potting it is always necessary to make provision for the escape of surplus water — that is to say, water which, when given to the plant in the pot, cannot be retained by the soil in which it grows. For the pur- pose of providing drainage, every gardener keeps by him a store of fragments of broken pots and saucers, oyster shells, and even broken pieces of soft bricks, which are useful in certain cases where much drainage is required. The oyster shell, or indeed any shell, such as that of the clam, mussel, or limpet, is useful for placing over the hole at the bottom of the pot, and surrounding this and above it may be placed small pieces of broken pots, techni- cally called " crocks." For cuttings which are not intended to remain in the pot for any length of time after they have rooted, a single piece of crock is sufficient, but when the time of tenancy is likely to be prolonged to months, and perhaps even years, it is necessary to fill one-sixth, and in some cases as much as one- fourth, of the entire depth of the pot with broken pots- herds— that is to say, if a pot be 6 inches in depth the crocking should be from I inch to l£ inch in depth. If possible, it is desirable to give a conical form to the crocking placed in the pot ; this may be done by placing a piece of potsherd or a shell at the bottom of the pot as already directed, and then placing other pieces round it and leaning against it, the whole being capped by another and longer piece. This provides for the gradual descent of the water from the centre to the sides of the pot, and its escape through the hole in the bottcra. Secondly, the pot being POTTING. 392 POTTING STAGE OR BENCH. erocked, it is considered desirable by some to place a little moss or cocoanut fibre, or even a few leaves, over the crocks before putting in the soil, so as to prevent the interstices between the crocks being choked by aggregation of the finer particles of earth that : lay be carried down from time to time by the water during the process of watering. There is, however, no absolute need to do this, as the very presence of the shells and potsherds at the bottom of the pot secures the escape of surplus water, even though a little earth be carried down among them. The better course is to place a little coarser mould immediately over the consolidating the earth by knocking the pot as before, and pressing it round the sides with a potting stick or with the thumbs, which is most convenient when dealing with the smaller sizes of pots. Also press the earth firmly about the collar of the plant with the thumbs. With the generality of plants it is desirable to pot firmly, not to ram the earth down hard, but sufficiently firm to find that the plant offers resistance if slight pressure be applied to it to pull it upwards. Lastly, never fill a pot with earth right up to the edge, but only to about £ inch below the edge of smaller pots, and I inch for larger POTTING BENCH. A. END ELEVATION ; B. FRONT ELEVATION. crocks, and use finer soil for placing imme- diately around the roots of the plant and filling the pot. Thirdly, in potting, the crocking being done and a little course mould thrown over them, some fine mould should be put in and shaken together by gently knocking the edge of the bottom of the pot against the potting bench, or by striking the sides of the pot gently with the hand. If the plant is well rooted, and most of the old earth surrounding the roots has been removed, draw up the mould already placed in the pot in a conical form, so that the plant may- be placed on the apex of the cone, and the roots disposed about its sloping sides. Then fill up the pot by throwing soil over the roots with the hand or the trowel, pots. This should be done in order to afford sufficient room for water when the plant is watered. Potting Stage or Bench. To every greenhouse of sufficient size a potting shed should be attached, furnished with a shelf or stage of suitable height, on which plants can be potted or repotted, as the case may be, before removal to the greenhouse. This should be of sufficient height to prevent stooping ; the height must of course be regulated by he height of the person who mostly uses the stage; it will vary from 2 feet 6 inches for short persons to 3 feet for tall persons. In a potting shed it is convenient to place drawers below the shelf or stage to contain POTTING STAGE OR BENCH. 393 PRIMULA. a sufficient supply of potting materials for immediate use, such as silver sand, peat, loam, cocoanut fibre, crocks, &c., &c. Rough boxes, such as those in which tinned lobster and salmon and Swiss milk are sent to this country, will answer the purpose as well and better than those made by a carpenter, because they cost little, and can be renewed at pleasure. All that is neces- sary is to put up a framework to suit the size and to furnish, runners on which the boxes may be drawn out and pushed in as required. Of course, contrivances of this kind must be suited to the space at com- mand. When much potting is done out of doors, as will be the case sometimes, especially when there is no potting shed, or when it is more convenient to do what has to be done at some distance from the potting shed, it is desirable to have a portable bench on which the work can be conveniently carried out. It will be more convenient, perhaps, if this bench is made so that it can be taken to pieces and put together again quickly and without much trouble. The first thing to be done is to make a couple of strong trestles, as shown in the end elevation of the bench at A in the accompanying illustration. These may consist of two uprights of inch stuff with transverse rails screwed to them on the inside of the uprights, the upper rail flush with the top of the upright, and the lower one about 6 inches above the lower ends of them. This is all as far as the trestles are concerned. Next, a board or shelf must be provided about 1 5 inches wide and 3 feet 6 inches long, or, at all events, about 2 inches wider than the width of the trestles. To the back of this a narrow piece of wood must be nailed, and two broader pieces at the sides, as shown in the illustration. This must be placed on top of the trestles, and the broad side pieces screwed to the top of the uprights as shown. Stability may be given to the bench by screwing on two diagonal pieces to the trestles, one in front and one behind, as shown at B, which exhibits the front elevation. A bench thus made will be found to be firm and stable. It requires only eight screws to hold it together ; and the various component parts, five in number, namely, the shelf or top, the two trestles, and the two diagonal pieces, may be put together or taken apart in a very few minutes. When not in use they can be put away in any spare corner. Prices of Hoes. The prices of hoes of different kinds are as follows, according to the width of the tool from point to point of the cutting edge in inches, and in solid cast steel : — Short-necked Long-necked Triangular Bury 3 in. / s. d. o 6 o 7 o 8 \m. d. s 8 ( 9 < 10 < ; in. . d. 3 IO ) II 3 II Sin. d. o i Dutch 6 Short-necked Long-necked Triangular Bury 7 in. s. d, I 2 i 3 I 2 i 4 in. d. 4 5 4 6 in. i d. 6 7 g in. d. 8 9 o Dutch i 9 0 3 6 These prices do not include handles, which are supplied at from 8d. to is., according to size of hoe. Halfmoon hoes, whether short-necked, long-necked, or Bury, are sold at the above prices according to sizes as given. Round-prong hoes, with 4-feet ash handles, are sold at 2s. with three prongs, 2s. 6d. with four prongs, and 35. 6d. with five prongs. Spuds and weed hooks are supplied at 7d. each, 2 inches wide; 8d., 2.\ inches; and iod., 3 inches ; but if handles are required 7d. must be added to each of these prices. Pri'milla (nat. ord. Primula'cese). This genus is a very large one, including, as it does, some of the most popular florists' flowers, viz., the auricula, the PRIMULA. 394 PROPAGATING FRAMES. polyanthus, and the primrose. It is not possible to do more here than call the reader's attention to the greenhouse varieties of Primula Sinensis, so useful for winter decorations. These begin to PRIMULA SINENSIS OR CHINESE PRIMROSE. flower early in November, and, by care, a succession may be kept up until spring is frame or greenhouse. One caution is necessary — never use peat mould or any soil liable to cake on the surface or turn green, as the loss of the seed is a certain consequence." Many of the principal nurserymen in the United Kingdom have turned their attention to the production of new varieties of P. Sinensis, and among these classes James Carter, High Holborn, London, W.C., are noted for their magnifi- cent primulas, known as the "Holborn" Primulas, in all colours— white, vermilion, blue, red, carmine, magenta, and pink. Propagating Frames, Earthen. These are earthen pans, square in shape, and having a slanting top after the manner far advanced. For bouquets also they are of a cucumber frame, almost invaluable. Mr. B. S. Williams, ! to have recourse to a The rim is rebated, term used in car- to whom the public are so much indebted for the care he has bestowed on these beautiful plants, says, " Taking them all in all, these are the most valuable winter- flowering plants in existence." His direc- tions for sowing and culture are as follows : — " Sow in March, April, May, June, and July (with great care, for although so easily raised in the hands of some, it is neverthe- less a great difficulty to others, who, in many instances, too hastily condemn the quality of the seed), in pots filled to within half an inch from the top with sifted leaf j mould, or, what is better, with thoroughly \ rotted manure, which has been exposed to all weathers for a year or two. Leave the surface rather rough, and sprinkle the seed thinly upon it, not covering with soil. Tie a piece of paper over the top of the pot, and leave it in a warm house or hotbed. When the seed becomes dry, water the paper only ; the seed will then germinate^ in two or three weeks. After this remove the paper and place in a shady place, pot- ting off when sufficiently strong into small pots ; place the pots near the glass in a pentry — that is to say, lowered in a step- like form along the inner edge of both sides and the bottom, so as to afford sup- port for a sheet of glass placed over the interior. They are more handy than seed pans, because the means of covering seeds and cuttings placed within them is far more simple and less costly than the bell-glass PROPAGATING FRAME. with which the seed pan must be covered if it be necessary to afford protection to any seeds that are being raised or cuttings PROPAGATION, NATURAL. 395 PROPAGATION, NATURAL. that are being struck in it. These propa- gating frames were introduced by Mr. Looker, and are manufactured by all the leading makers of coarse earthenware, and notably by Messrs. F. Rosher and Co., Upper Ground Street, Blackfriars, S.E. Seed pans, measuring 9 inches by 6 inches by 3 inches, or in other words, 9 inches long, 6 inches wide, and 3 inches deep, are supplied by Mr. Tippetts, Aston, Bir- mingham, at 55. per dozen. These frames and pans can only be regarded as pots with a glass covering. No heat can be applied, unless the pan or frame, as the case may be, is plunged in a hotbed. Propagation, Natural. Speaking broadly and generally, natural propagation is effected by the development ! of a bud which proceeds from some portion of the plant, either root or stem, as the case may be, that is below the surface of the ground, or from the stem proceeding from it at a point just above the surface. No matter what may be the mode of pro- pagation that Nature selects, the offset, when ultimately separated from the parent plant, assumes a separate existence, and becomes an independent plant similar in every respect to that from which it sprang. Thus, the suckers thrown up from the root of a rose or any shrub that throws up shoots of this kind from below ground, when detached, with a portion of the root, will speedily form new and strong plants. The rhizome of the primrose, polyanthus, &c., may be removed from the parent plant, and will soon send forth roots under favourable circumstances, if it be not already rooted before removal ; and when the new plant springing from the stole of the strawberry is once attached to the soil by roots of its own, the connecting link between parent and offspring may be cut away, rendering the latter dependent on itself for obtaining a supply of nourish • ment through its own roots. Every plant is provided by Nature with a suitable means of reproduction, whether by seed, or sucker, or stole, or rhizome. Propagation by natural methods, or methods that are adopted by, or are in accordance with, Nature, are six in number, namely — (i) by seed; (2) by germs or bulbs, or, in a more comprehensive term, by offsets; (3) by slips; (4) by division of the plant ; (5) by runners ; and (6) by suckers ; and under each method a special mode of treatment is not only desirable but necessary, thus : — i. In Propagation by Seed, it is requisite to use seed the vitality of which is un- impaired. Under certain circumstances the vitality of seed will endure for thousands of years, as is apparent from the so-called " Mummy Wheat," which was grown from a grain of wheat found in the swathings of a mummy of the body of an Egyptian that had been embalmed and shrouded in its cerements for burial per- haps four or five thousand years ago, or even longer. When placed in the soil this wheat corn germinated and reproduced itself in great abundance. The mainten- ance of vitality was due in this case to the exclusion of the external air and moisture. Generally speaking, seeds retain vitality for one or two years only under ordinary circumstances, and from this we gather that— (a) It is better to sow seed saved during the previous season, or, at the utmost, not more than two seasons old ; and (b) If it be desired to preserve the vitality of seed for a longer period than two years, it is necessary to keep it in air- tight receptacles, or, at least, to exclude air from the receptacles in which they may be kept as far as it is possible to do so. In addition to age, due regard must be had to soil, season, and other circumstances. As a general rule, it may be laid down that PROPAGATION, NATURAL. 396 PROPAGATION, NATURAL. seed should not be buried below the earth's surface at a depth greater than its own thickness of diameter, though it may be safely assumed that the depth may be increased with perfect safety in the case of seeds of leguminous plants, which are large and bulky in comparison with the generality of seeds. Thus, the tiny seeds of the auricula should be sprinkled on the surface of the soil in which they are sown, dusted over with a little fine soil and sand sprinkled on them by means of a tin pepper- box, a little moss being laid over them until they have germinated, in order to promote and preserve surface moisture. Larger seeds should be strewn on flattened surfaces prepared to receive them, and sprinkled over with a light covering of soil. Such seeds as onions, carrots, parsnips, &c., should be sown in drills made in the earth with the end or back of the rake, and have the ridge that is thus thrown up drawn over them. Peas and beans may be set at a depth several times their thick- ness or diameter in a shallow trench made for their reception by the end of the blade of the hoe. The smaller the seed, the finer should be the soil in which it is grown. The soil in which seed is sown should be tolerably dry — dry enough to crumble lightly when worked with the hand, and not to clot together in a pasty mass. Therefore, dry weather should be chosen for seed sowing, and if seed can be sown just before a gentle shower, or when the weather bids fair to be showery, so much the better. Of course, there is a proper time for sowing for every kind of seed, but this cannot be specified in a series of general instructions which apply equally to all. Place or position — that is to say, whether in the open air or under protection — also forms an important factor with regard to time. 2. In Propagation by Germs, Bulbs, or Offsets, all bulblets, whether they proceed from the stem of the plant or from the parent bulb, immediately above the part from which the fibrous roots emanate, should be placed in light soil, at a depth equal to their own height below the surface, immediately after removal from the parent plant, otherwise they will dry up under exposure to the air and lose vitality. By some a distinction is drawn between the terms bulbs and offsets, the latter being applied to bulblets thrown off by the main bulb. But this is a nice distinction which is scarcely requisite. All bulblets are of necessity offsets. 3. In Propagation by Slips, it must be explained that slips are young shoots which spring from the collar or upper portion of the roots of herbaceous plants, as in the auricula or chrysanthemum, or from shrub- like plants, as thyme and sage. In some plants the shoot or slip may be stripped away from the upper part of the stem. When the lower part is sufficiently firm and ripe, the slip is stripped away from the parent plant in such a manner as to bring away a heel or projecting piece of the old wood, whether stem or root. The edges of the heel should then be trimmed with a sharp knife, and inserted in suitable soil, and shaded until it has commenced to send out roots. When slips are taken from the collar, they will often have roots already sent forth, or exhibit the rudiments of roots. These will of course grow more rapidly. Want of success in many cases may be traced to neglect in trimming the heel or base of the slip, as a callus is produced more quickly on a smooth surface than it is on a ragged one. 4. In Propagation by Divisions of the Plant, the original plant is broken up into pieces, and each piece, which will be found to consist of stem, leaves, and roots, may be planted separately, and will soon form a young and vigorous plant. This mode of propagation is resorted to in the case of all PROPAGATOR. 397 PROPAGATOR, plants proceeding from rhizomes, as the daisy, polyanthus, Solomon's Seal, &c., anc in all herbaceous plants. Solomon's Seal, for example, may be cut into pieces provided that each piece has an eye or bud from which it may sprout upwards, and roots below. Herbaceous plants should be divided in the spring, when growth is commencing. They will then separate readily into portions, each replete with buds for its upper growth, and roots for its growth below ground. 5. In Propagation by Runners, all that has to be done is -to peg down the runner, or place a weight on it so as to prevent it from being moved by any cause, and to give the young plant that issues from any knot or division an opportunity of rooting itself in the soil. When sufficiently well rooted, the young plant can be removed. This has been explained in speaking of plants that propagate themselves by stoles or runners like the strawberry. 6. In Propagation by Suckers, which in point of fact are underground runners, all that is necessary is to dig them up with care and to cut them away as near the parent plant as possible, so as to retain the roots which have issued from it between its point of issue from the main root, and that of its appearance above ground. All suckers should be headed back frrm one- fourth to one-half their length to lessen the demand on the roots for nutriment, immediately after separation from the parent plant. See also Budding, &c. ; Cuttings, Pro- pagation by ; Grafting ; Inarching ; Layer- ing, Propagation by ; Pipings, Propagation by ; Ringing; Seeds, Mode of Sowing, &~Y. Propagator. Generally speaking, this is a contrivance of recent introduction, and it will not be wrong to attribute its introduction to the rapid strides with which gardening has advanced of late years in this country, and the desire which has arisen among those who cannot afford to lay out much in the pursuit of this special hobby to find the means of raising seedlings and striking cuttings on a small scale, on principles identical with those on which the profes- sional gardener raises and strikes these on a larger scale, either for sale to his various customers, or for the embellishment and adornment of private gardens, more or less extensive, of which he has the care. The principle involved in the propagator is the maintenance in an enclosed space of a temperature that will cause the germination of seeds, or the formation of a callus and the subsequent emission of roots at the lower end of a cutting, in less time than that in which germination or rooting could be effected in the open air, or under a handlight at the proper season of the year, or at a time at which natural processes could not take place in the open air, or under the protection that has just been mentioned. The question naturally arises, How is the temperature to be obtained that will promote and effect these natural processes more speedily and at times and seasons otherwise than those at which Nature herself would carry them out in the ordinary course of the seasons and under ordinary conditions? To this the* reply is : By the application of bottom heat. Propagator, Construction of. The propagator, speaking generally, is a small frame or structure by which plants may be raised and cuttings struck by the application of heat below the seeds or cuttings by artificial means. It generally assumes the form of a miniature greenhouse, with a slanting pane of glass by way of roof, and is divided into two stages, storeys, or chambers — an upper one under the glass, in which the growing process goes PROPAGATOR. 398 PROPAGATOR. on ; and an under one, in which heat is generated and applied. It will be under- stood all the better if we take the simple form . of a structure of this kind, which any one may make for himself at the cost of a few pence and a little thought and contrivance. In the accompanying illus- tration, in which this frame is illustrated by means of a sectional diagram, the upper or growing chamber, and the lower or heating chamber, are recognisable at a glance. The upper one consists of a miniature frame easily made out of a box to be bought of the grocer for 2d. or 3d., with the front lowered, the side cut to slant from back to front, and a ledge nailed round the top at A, A, A, so that a plane of glass may be dropped into it. The bottom is cut away, as shown at B, B, so as to form another ledge projecting inwards all round, on which a slate or a sheet of metal is dropped, to form a false bottom to the box. If it be asked, Why take the trouble to cut out the wooden bottom when, after all, a bottom is ab- solutely necessary ? it is sufficient to say that wood is a bad conductor of heat, and slate or metal is a good conductor, and that it is desirable to have the separating medium between the upper and lower chambers of material that is a good con- ductor, so that the temperature of the air in the upper chamber may be raised with the least possible delay. Fill the bottom of the receptacle thus made with cocoanut fibre as far as the dotted line c, and nothing remains but to put the seeds or cuttings in small pots filled with light soil, and plunge them in the cocoanut fibre. The next step is to procure a box, or make a case, of exactly the same dimensions within as the growing case is externally, so that the latter may be dropped into it, fitting with tolerable tightness ; ledges, D, D, must be nailed to the interior of this case all round, on which the upper box may rest. The front of the case may be open from E to F to allow the lamp to be taken out and put in at pleasure, and to be visible at all times, so that the oil may be replenished when it gets low. Now get an Australian meat can, G, and having removed the ragged top by cutting a nick on one side with a file and putting it on the hot plate of a stove to melt the solder, put it in the centre of the case as shown, DIAGRAM ILLUSTRATING PRINCIPLE OF PROPA- GATOR. letting the bottom fit tightly into a board with a round hole cut in the middle of it to take the tin, the bottom of which should project beyond the lower surface to the depth of about \ inch. This board, repre- sented in section by EH, should be dropped on to the ledges, D, D, and nailed to them before the tin is put in its place. The upper edge of the tin should rest on boards contrived to slant from the top of the ledges towards the tin, and for this reason a tin that is square in form makes a better boiler than a round one, because it is more easily fixed. The junction between the PROPAGATOR. 399 PROPAGATOR, SIMPLE. . boards thus put in at top and bottom and the tin must be carefully closed with putty and well painted ; the chamber, n, D, sur- rounding the tin will thus form a hot chamber, which will be of material assist- ance in preserving an equable temperatur; should the lamp go out. The lower case being completed, and the tin filled with water, the upper case may be dropped into its place, and all is ready for active opera- tions. Through the open front of the lower case a lamp must be introduced, and so placed on a stand or not, according to circumstances, so that the top of the chimney may be about 2 inches below the bottom of the tin that has been utilised as a boiler, and just under its centre. Light the lamp, lay a thermometer on the top of the cocoanut fibre, and watch the mercury : it will soon rise and show that summer heat, or thereabouts, has been attained in the upper case. Steam has been gene- rated in G, and has risen to the under side of the bottom of the upper case, there to be condensed and fall in drops on the slanting j boards round the top of the tin, from which they trickle into the tin itself. The false ; bottom, being a good conductor of heat, | has transmitted the heat derived from the steam generated in the boiler to the air in the box above, and an increase in tempera- ture has consequently followed. This is the whole principle of bottom heating, con- tained, as it were, in a nutshell, and holds good as an illustration of it whatever may be the heating medium. To be complete in itself, the little propagator described should be furnished with a pipe communi- cating with the external air, and rising to a level with the topmost edge of the outer case, by means of which it may be ascer- tained, by the issue of steam or the con- trary, whether or not the boiler is empty, and by which it may be refilled ; but no attempt has been made to explain this feature, as the boiler can easily be re- plenished by lifting off the box that covers it in. Propagator, Simple. Another simple but useful propagator is made in the following manner. A is a case with neither top nor bottom, supported by four wooden legs, B. B. , notched at top as shown, and screwed to ends, which are lower than sides, to allow of the passage over them of two panes of glass, which 1 SIMPLE PROPAGATOR. work in grooves cut in inner part of sides along the top. Round the bottom are nailed strips to form a ledge, on which rests the boiler D, formed of two plates of tinned iron, the lower one flat and the upper one bent at the edges, and soldered down on the lower plate so as to leave a hollow space between them. Water is poured into this through the funnel E, and at the oppo- site corner, diagonally, is a small pipe F, through which steam finds an exit into the case. The warming is effected by means of a very small lamp, such as is known as a " night-light " lamp. The top of the chimney goes into a hole, in the centre of a saucer-shaped tin, in which it moves freely. Three or four holes are pierced in this tin, which is soldered on to the bottom of the boiler and tends to prevent too great a dispersion of the heated air above the .PROTECTION OF PLANTS. 400 PRUNING, PROCESS OF. chimney. The lamp is suspended by wires bent at the ends at a right angle, the bent limbs fitting into sockets in the form of short tubes soldered on at each side of the saucer-shaped tin. The space between the boiler and the dotted line is filled up with cocoanut fibre in which small pots may be ABC D i?IG. I. — RIGHT AND WRONG MODES OF PRUNING plunged or cuttings struck. The space between the upper and lower plates of the boiler is from | inch to £ inch. Although iae lamp is small the temperature in the upper part of the case is very soon raised to 70° to 8°, as may be seen by application of a thermometer Protection of Bedding Plants. See Bedding Plants, Protection of. Pruning, Process of. Tools Reqiiired. — The instruments re- quired in pruning are a hand saw, a pruning knife, a chisel, and a mallet. For garden trees the knife is the most important; it should be strong and of the best steel, with a considerable curve, so as to take a good hold of the wood. Operation, how performed. — The way in which to perform the operation requires attention. The amputation should be made as near as possible to the bud, but without touching it ; the cut should begin on the opposite side, and on a level with its lower part, made at an angle of 45°, and terminate just above the bud, as at A in Fig. i, which shows the right mode of cutting a branch in pruning, and which, with the accompany- ing illustrations at B, C, and D, is repro- duced from Du Breuil'swork on the culture of fruit-trees. When cut as at A, the ampu- tation is made as close as possible to the bud, but not so near as to injure it. The pruning knife is placed exactly opposite the bud, and cut in a slanting direction up- wards, in the line ab, coming out a little above the bud. By this means the buds re .ains uninjured, and more readily bursts into growth when the times comes. In B, the branch is cut in the line ab too far from the bud, and the consequence is that the wood dies down to the line c, and the dead stump has to be cut away the following year. In C, the cut ab is too slanting, and coi .menced too far down the stem on the side opposite the bud, and the consequence is that the bud is weakened and its growth rendered less vigorous. FIG. 2.— FIRST YEAR'S PRUNING OF STANDARD. If it is necessary to cut away a branch altogether, a small portion of it should be left on the stem, as at a in D, and the cut should be a smooth one, slightly bevelled, presenting the smallest possible extent of PRUNING, PROCESS OF. 401 PRUNING, PROCESS OF. wounded surface, when the healing of the wound will be quicker than it would have been had the cut been made nearer the FIG. 3.— SECOND YEARS PRUNING OF STANDARD WITH TWO SHOOTS. stem. If amputation of a larger branch is made with the saw, the cut should be made smooth with the knife or chisel, and covered with grafting paste. Formation of Head in Standard. — The first object in pruning a standard tree is the formation of its head. The first pruning must take place at the end of the first season after grafting, when the scion has made its growth, as represented in Fig. 2, and when two shoots have sprung from the graft. To form a full round head, the two shoots should be pruned into #, a. The year after, the tree will present the appear- ance represented in Fig. 3 ; or, if three shoots have been left the first year, and the whole three headed in, in the following year they will appear as in Fig. 4, each shoot having thrown out two new branches. The one tree now presents a head of six, and the other four shoots. At the end of second year both are to be headed back, the one to the shape indicated by the crossing lines a, a, a, a, the other as nearly as possible to the same distance from the graft. Another year's growth will, in each in- stance, double the number of main shoots, which will now be eight and twelve respec- tively. If a greater number of shoots appear, or if any of them seem badly placed, their growth should be prevented by pinching off the tops when young, and pruning them clean off when the tree has shed its leaves. FIG, 4. — SECOND YEARS PRUNING OF STANDARD WITH TREE SHOOTS* The time for winter pruning is between November and February, before the sap begins to stir. Those trees which have 27 PRUNING, PROCESS OF. 4O2 PRUNING, PROCESS OF. produced twelve shoots should be pruned exactly like those with eight, to form a compact head. When the standard tree has acquired eight or twelve main branches, FIG. 5.— APPEARANCE OF STANDARD IN THIRD YEAR'S GROWTH. as the case may be, by these various primings, it has attained its full formation, as represented in Fig. 5, where the eight branches have assumed a circular, cup-like form. For a few years the growth of these eight branches should be carefully watched, and each kept as nearly as possible in an equally vigorous state. Should any of them take the lead of the others, so as to threaten the symmetry of the tree, its ex- tremity should be nipped off in such a manner as to check its growth, and at the winter pruning it should be shortened in Considerably. All shoots from the stem below the grafts should be rubbed off as soon as they appear. When the standard tree has reached its bearing state, the object of the primer is the production of fruit, which is best attained by giving a round and cup-like form to the tree. If the branches are too rigorously shortened, strong useless wood will be produced, without fruiting spurs. If the branches are well placed, let them have their free course, and they will throw out bearing spurs to the extremity of the branches. Little more need be said on the subject, except that all unproduc- tive wood, crowded sprays, and decayed branches, that cross each other, should be cut out, the tree kept open in the centre, and the open cuplike form rigorously maintained. These remarks apply chiefly to apples, pears, and other trees which bear their fruit on spurs. These spurs will in time become long and scrubby, with many branches, as in Fig. 6, in which a spur is shown which has grown beyond due limits. No fruit spur should be allowed to grow beyond 2 inches in length, and to bring back the spur in Fig. 6 to its proper position, cut away neatly the upper shoot at A, when the small buds d, or the Scarlet Oak, is one of these. Q. robur is the Black or Common Oak, and Q. suber is the evergreen oak, tfhose bark is so well known as cork. Quince. The three existing varieties of quince are known as " Apple Shaped," " Pear Shaped," and " Portugal." Propagation may be effected by seeds, cuttings, or layers. The fruit is used . for making marmalade, and one or two added to an apple pie imparts a desirable flavour to the fruit used. Quincunx. This is the name given to a system of planting very extensively adopted by gar- deners and with very good results. It consists in arranging trees or plants in such a manner that those in one row stand oppo- site spaces in the next. Thus : — O1EI,YTRA SVECTABII.IS. Go, lovely Rose, Tell her that wastes her time and me That now she knows When I resemble her to thee, How sweet and fair she seems to be. Small is the worth Of beauty from the light retired, Bid her come forth, Suffer herself to be desired. And not blush so to be admired. WALLER. ABBITS, Precau- tions Against. Much injury is done to the bark of trees and many plants by the nib- bling of rabbits. The best plan is to keep them out by suit- able wire fencing ; but this is costly, and perhaps in some places impossible. A safe- guard for individual trees is to place boards round the stem or trunk connected with hooks and eyes, so that they may be easily put up and readily shifted, or some sticks, about I inch in diameter, may be placed at intervals round and against the stem of the tree, and bound round from the bottom upwards with tarred cord as far as may be necessary. The remedy is an unsightly one, but it has the merit of being effectual. Some recommend tarring the stems from the ground to the height of about 20 inches, but this is likely to prove injurious to the tree itself. Instead of doing this, it is better to drive in three or four stakes round each plant at the distance of 9 inches or 12 inches from it ; then tie a bit of fresh tarred line round the stakes at the distance of 9 inches from the ground. Radish (Rhaphanus sativus). If much liked these may be had all the year round by sowing in frames from October to February inclusive, and in the open ground during the remainder of the year. They require a light, rich, loamy soil ; and if they are grown on ground that 4" RADISH. 413 RADISH. has been manured for the crop that has preceded them so much the better. Sow broadcast, thinly, or in drills from 3 to 4 inches apart for long radishes and the smaller sorts of turnip radishes, and from 4 to 6 inches apart for the larger sorts. Radishes are often sown much too thickly, WHITE TURNIP RADISH. WOOD'S EARLY FRAME LARGE RED RADISH. and this causes the roots to be small, hard, stringy, and disagreeably hot in flavour. Early sowings will require to be protected from frost by a covering of litter, but this must be removed every mild day, as soon as the plants appear above ground. When the weather is hot and the ground dry, well water before sowing ; and some days before drawing, water the beds well, and keep the soil moist until the crop is finished. The Spanish varieties should be sown in drills, about a foot apart, and thinned out when sufficiently strong to draw, so as to stand from 4 to 6 inches apart in the rows. For a winter supply of these, sow from the middle of July to the middle of September, regulating this by the locality, and the size at which the roots may be most esteemed. Fair-sized roots, however, will be obtained in most localities from sowings made about the middle of August. These may be taken up before severe weather sets in, and pitted or stored in damp sand, in a cool cellar or shed, for winter use. Culttire in Hotbed. — late-sown radishes — that is to say, radishes sown in autumn — will need protection at night when frosty weather comes on. To make certain of the crop, it is better to grow them in frames, making up for the purpose a bed of manure about 2 feet in depth. Over the hotbed spread light, loamy soil, to the depth of 10 inches, or thereabouts, and then place a two or three-light frame over the bed, as may be convenient. Sow the radishes broadcast, and press in the seed with the back of a rake. This may be done from October to even March, but for sowings in midwinter it will be found necessary to afford auxiliary heat by linings as the heat of the bed declines. Give air on every favourable occasion, so as to secure stocky growth, and cover up at night when frosty. When hotbeds are made in early spring for cucumbers, radishes may be obtained more BLACK SPANISH WINTER RADISH. quickly than in ordinary soil by sprinkling seed on the earth that is without the frame, that is to say, on the soil with which the manure that projects beyond the frame is covered. RAFFIA, OR R APR I A. 414 RAKE. GARDEN RAKE. Raffia, or Raph'ia. A material used much now as a substitute for bast or the inner bark of the linden in tying up plants and flowers. The long strips, in which form it is sold, are ob- tained from the leaves of the Raffia Palm. Rake. The rake is a tool that is not so much required in the flower garden as in the vegetable garden, where its use is neces- sary in order to bring the surface of the soil to some uni- formity of fine- ness, and to draw the earth over seed that has been newly sown, either in drills or in patches. It is also necessary for drawing weeds, stones, &c., together in a heap prior to removal. The rake itself consists of a straight flat bar of iron from £ inch to f inch wide, in which teeth, resembling round pointed nails, are set at right angles to the under surface of the bar. The teeth are usually slightly curved, as shown in Fig. i, but sometimes they are straight, and sometimes, instead of being like a cylindrical curved peg, they are flat, and as wide as the bar of the rake, but set in the bar with the width of the tooth tranversely to the bar, so that the edges of the teeth meet the soil, &c., when the rake is in use. The teeth of rakes are gene- rally i inch apart, and the rakes are made in sizes containing from four to twelve teeth in light rakes, and from four to sixteen teeth in strong and extra-strong rakes. A socket is attached to the bar at right angles to it, and in this a round, straight ash or deal handle, of about 5 feet in length, is inserted. There are other varieties in rakes used in gardening, such as the ordinary haymaker's wooden rake, and the wire lawn rake, represented in Fig. 2, which are used for the removal of grass, &c., from lawns. A new and light steel rake for lawns, illus- trated in Fig 3, hac been introduced of late years. Being constructed entirely of steel, it is both strong and light, and though costing is. gd., or nearly three times as much as an ordinary hay rake of wood, its durability, strength, and lightness, render it a far more desirable implement to possess than the wooden rake. The prices of garden rakes are regulated by the number of teeth in them, and may be stated as follows : — 45678 s. d. s. d. s. d. s. d. s. d. Light .. ..04 05 06 07 08 Strong ..06 o 7^ o 9 o 10^ i o Extra strong 08 oio 10 12 14 Solid Teeth for Roads . . — — — 3640 9 10 12 13 14 j. d. s. d. s. d. s. d. s. d. Light .. ..090 10 10 — — Strong . . i ij i 3 i 6 i 20 Extra strong i 6 18 20 24 28 Solid Teeth for Roads ..46 50 Handles for garden rakes are charged at from 8d. to is. extra, according to size ; FIG. 2.— WIRE LAWN RAKE. FIG. 3. — PATENT STEEL HAY RAKE. for handles for road rakes is. 6d. is charged. The patent hay rake of Bes- semer steel, with 6-feet handle, is sold at is. 9d. ; the wire lawn rake at about 2s. 3d. RAKE. 415 RANUN'CULUS. Rake, How and why used. Loudon says : " Rakes vary in size and in the length and strength of their teeth they are used for covering seeds or taking off weeds or cut grass, for smoothing sur- faces, and for removing or replacing thin strata of pulverised surfaces, as in ' cuffing, which is a mode of covering tree seeds sown in beds, by spreading the earth pre- viously drawn off to the sides, over the seeds, by a smart blow or cuff with the back of the rake." Indeed, the back of the rake is frequently used in pulverising and knocking to pieces clods of earth before raking the surface of a bed for the reception of seeds, and one end of the bar is often utilised for tracing drills for the reception of seed. Thus the rake may be made to serve more purposes than one. Rampion. The root and leaves of this plant are both eaten in salads, and in winter, when variety is valued, it forms a valuable addition to the materials in season for salad making. Sowings should be made in March or April for use in autumn, and in May for a winter supply. A rich soil in a shady position is necessary, and the seeds should be sown in drills about 6 inches apart. The plants should be ultimately thinned out to the same distance apart in the rows. Ranunculus (nat.ord. Ranuncula'cess). Next to the tulip, perhaps, ranunculuses are the most beautiful of all bulbs or tubers, if, indeed, their clawlike roots can fairly lay claim to either of these names. They rival the tulip in brilliancy of colour, and many prefer the beautifully arranged balls of the ranunculus to the stiff, formal cups of the tulip ; both, however, have their distinc- tive reatures of beauty, and deserve a place in every garden. Although, by careful research into the characteristics and quali- ties of the blooms, it might be possible to increase the number of the varieties of this beautiful flower to five or six, yet at present they are confined to two, namely, the Turban Ranunculus and the Persian Ra- nunculus (Ranunculus Asiaticus}. There are classes of the ranunculus known as "English," "Scotch," and "French," but these are merely improvements of the types already mentioned, the last named being a robust variety of the Turban type which has gone back to a semi-double condition, making amends for its retroces- sion from the close and compact bloojns of the Turbans, by increased abundance of flowers and more vigorous growth and PERSIAN RANUNCULUS — SEMI-DOUBLE VARIETY. habit. The colours of the ranunculus are as numerous as they are beautiful, being in all shades of purple, brown, crimson, scarlet, rose, pink, and yellow, and in black and white, some having the blooms varie- ated with markings and edgings of another colour. Planting, Soil, &»c. — The tubers may be planted from October to the end of March, some preferring one period and some another : perhaps no better time could be chosen for planting than the beginning or middle of February. As soon as the beds are in a fit state, lose no time in planting. RANUNCULUS. 416 RASPBERRY. if the weather be favourable ; waiting a day, or even a week, is nothing in com- parison with placing the roots in soil in an unfit state to receive them. They are best cultivated in 4-feet beds of rich loam mixed with one-fourth part of decomposed cow dung. The soil should be dug from 2 to z\ feet deep, and if the situation is moist and partly sheltered, so much the better. A constant supply of moisture is essential to their beauty and growth, although an excess of water would destroy the tubers during the cold of winter and early spring : after their blossom-buds are formed, how- ever, the surface of the beds must never be allowed to become dry ; a daily soaking of water will then be necessary in dry weather, not only for the sake of the flowers, but to preserve the roots from injury, these being very near the surface. The roots should be planted about 2 inches deep and 6 inches apart ; their clawlike extremities should be pressed firmly into the earth, and the crowns be covered with an inch of sand previous to another inch of soil being spread over them ; the beds may then be covered with a layer of spruce branches, straw litter, or leaf mould, to protect them from the frost : this will, of course, be removed before the appearance of the plants above ground. Propagation by Offsets. — Ranunculuses are increased by offsets, dividing the tubers, and seed. Offsets is the usual mode of increase, and they are generally sufficiently strong to flower the first year. Choice sorts may also be divided into several plants ; every little knot that appears on the top of a tuber will form a plant if carefully divided, so as to insure an accompanying claw. Unless, however, for choice sorts, this mode of increase is not desirable : by seed is the most rapid mode of increase, as well as the only way of securing new varieties. It is said by some persons that ranunculuses never come true from seed, so that variety is certain. Propagation by Seed. — Perhaps the best time for sowing is the month of January, and the best place a cold frame. Sow either in the frame or in pots or boxes, on a smooth hardish surface, and barely cover the seed with soil. Exclude the frost, and keep the frame close until the plants show two seed-leaves ; then gradually inure them to more air, until the light may be entirely removed in May. The little tubers may be taken up when the foliage is quite ripened off; they will require the same, or even more attention, in watering than the old roots. Some prefer sowing the seed on beds out of doors in the autumn or spring months. Storing Tubers. — Generally ranunculuses will have died down, and be fit for taking up and storing, by the end of June or beginning of July. The place for storing should be dry ; a drawer with a bed of sand being the most convenient. Raspberry, Culture of the. Raspberries flourish in any good rich loam, and grow to perfection in a dark, unctuous soil. As a rule, raspberries do well where black currants flourish, and neither of these are very productive where cherry-trees thrive best. Before planting, the ground should be well trenched and manured ; for though the roots lie near the surface, it is well to induce them to strike downwards in the event of a dry season. The second or third week in October is the best period for planting. Strong canes should be selected, and great advantage is gained if they be taken up with soil upon their roots. They may be put in singly, in rows, or in bunches of three canes each. In this latter case, it is desirable to cut the canes of different heights ; the strongest may be four feet, the second three feet, and the third two feet. Staking will be necessary RASPBERRY. 417 RASPBERRY. before the plants begin to grow in the spring, and great care should be taken that the ground is not trodden in wet weather. In staking, it is desirable to plant the stools in rows, from four to six feet apart. Drive in uprights along the rows at intervals of six feet, and to the uprights, which should be from five to six feet in height, tie or screw horizontal slips of wood about one-and-a-half or two inches broad, and three-quarters of an inch thick. Spread the canes along these strips fan fashion, and tie in position with bast raffia or tarred cord. Pruning. — The pruning of raspberries is an easy matter. In June the bushes should be gone over, and all suckers removed, except about six of the strongest, These, at a later period, may be reduced to four, and if the parent plant be weak, two or three will be sufficient. There is great benefit in cutting the canes of different heights, for as the top buds grow strong- est, the young fruit - bearing shoots are more equally divided, and enjoy more air and light. The ground in which rasp- berries are grown should not be broken up, but have a top dressing of good rotten manure yearly. By a little management, raspberries may be made to bear a crop of fruit during autumn. For late bearing, as soon as root suckers show themselves in June, the old canes should be cut away entirely, so as to prevent summer fruiting ; and encouragement given during July and August to such suckers as show blossom- buds, for these will bear fruit in autumn. Autumn-bearing raspberries must be kept thin, or they will not prove successful. The canes for this purpose should be planted in single rows, and not in threes, as recommended for summer fruiting. They should stand about one foot apart. Raspberry, Varieties of. — The most use- the Yellow Antwerp. The Antwerp Red is a finely flavoured and highly productive variety, and is still regarded as one of the best ; and Antwerp Yellow or White — call it which you will— is of delicious flavour, and a most useful fruit for dessert. Of more recent varieties, Baumforth's Seedling is highly productive, and yields a fine fruit of excellent flavour ; and Carter's Prolific is a large and great bearer, and highly fruitful. Lord Beaconsfield is a particularly fine sort, and from its robust habit stands continued dry weather better than any other ; it requires, however, high cultivation. The fruit is immense, and appears on the canes in the greatest profusion from the bottom to the top of the cane, which sometimes reaches the height of twelve feet. It is said that as many as two thousand berries have been gathered from a single stool. Semper Fidelis is a free grower, but is more useful for preserving than dessert, a& it has a more acid flavour than most other varieties. It is, however, a great and con- tinuous cropper, and continues to yield fruit when none can be gathered from any other sort. Superlative is considered by growers to be the best sort and heaviest cropper of any, and is a perfectly distinct variety. It is essentially a dessert rasp- berry, having a large and very handsome berry, attached by a long foot-stalk. It is incapable of injury from drought, and the canes are so stout that they need no arti- ficial support. The fruit is large, conical, and entirely free from watery juice, and it is said that six good-sized fruit will together weigh an ounce. White Magnum Bonum is a very fine white fruit, of sweet and palatable flavour, and large in size. Of be cut summer autumnal down kinds — which should February, and the growth well thinned out — Belle de Fonte- ful varieties of the raspberry are the Red j nay is recommended as a good red double- Antwerp, Fastolf, Prince of Wales, and | bearing kind, occasionally yielding a good 28 RED BEET. 418 REEL AND LINE. supply in September and onwards ; and Yellow Four Seasons is also a good bearer, yielding a nice sweet fruit. The " Glen- field" is a black raspberry and the only kind of its peculiar colour. As a summing up of what has been said above, the following will show at a glance the best kinds of raspberries now in culti- vation : — i. Baumforth's Seed- ing. 7. Belle de Fontenay. 3. Carter's Prolific. 4. Fastolf. 5. Glenfield (the only Black Raspberry). 6. Lord Beaconsfield. 7. Marlborough. 8. Northumberland Fillbasket. 9. Prince of Wales. 10. Red Antwerp 11. Semper Fidelis. 12. Superlative. 13. White or Yellow Antwerp. 14. White Magnum Bonum. 15. Yellow Four Sea- sons. 16. Yellow Globe. Red Beet. See Beet, Red. Red Spider (Acarus tellarius). This is one of the most baneful of the insect pests that the gardener has to deal with either in the open air or in green- houses or hothouses, in which it is very prevalent when they have been kept too hot or too dry. There are various acari or mites which infest and injure plants, but this is accounted the most prevalent and therefore the worst of them. They are almost invisible even to the keenest vision, but their presence is indicated by the state of the leaves on which they are, and which present a burnt or scorched appearance, being brown, red, or yellowish in colour in patches, or over the entire leaf. Green- house walls should be dressed with a mixture of soft soap, sulphur, and clay, b^at up to the consistency of paint with warm water, and flie same dressing may be used for trees. Fumigation with flowers of sulphur vaporised on hot plates is also useful, the houses, pits, &c., being care- fully closed while the work of destruction is in progress. After fumigation the plants should be well syringed from time to time with fresh clean water. Reel and Line for Garden Use. Practically, a couple of stakes and a piece of strong cord are all that are abso- lutely necessary for marking out a straight line between any two points, but far less time is taken up in winding a line round a frame which forms part of the garden reel than in turning and turning it round a stake a little thicker than one's thumb. The shape shown in the accompanying illustra- tion exhibits a very common form of garden reel and line, but whatever the form may be the principle is alike in all. The reel consists of a central stake or pin of iron, sharpened to a point at the lower end, and so constructed above that an iron frame, consisting of top, bottom, and two sides, revolves upon it easily. The pin passes through holes made for its recep- tion in the top and bottom piece of the GARDEJ[, frame. One end of the line is secured to the pin or tied to one side of the frame, and then wound round the sides of the frame. As the frame may be made to revolve on the pin with great rapidity, it is manifest that the line, even if entire-ly unwound, can be wound up again with great rapidity. The other end of the line is tied to an eye projecting from another stake or pin, as shown in the illus- tration. When it is necessary to stretch the line, either for the purpose of denning the edge of a path or border, or for tracing LINE AND REEL. REGENERATING FRUIT-TREES. 419 RESERVE GARDEN. a drill for seed sowing, this stake is pressed into the ground, usually by the hand of the gardener, or, if necessary, by the pressure of his heel. The line is then unwound from the frame as far as it is necessary, and the pin passing through the frame is pressed into the ground at the point required ; the line is then turned round the pin just below the frame, and is tightened by screwing the stake round and round. When the neces- sary tension has been obtained, pressure is exerted on the frame and its stake to force them into the mould, so that the line may no slip or slacken. Regenerating Fruit-trees. See Fruit-trees, Regeneration of. Reserve Garden. Herbaceous Plants. — With regard to the Reserve Garden, this, as its name imports, is not meant to be a special object of beauty in itself, but to provide the means of up- holding a continuous display of beauty else- where. Many plants that are totally unfit, from the short duration of their bloom, to enter the flower garden as permanent occupants, may, with perfect safety, be transplanted there for the display of their floral beauty, and be returned, as they fade, to the reserve garden. Of this class is the whole race of polyanthuses, hepaticas, hardy ariculas, primroses, and violets. The winter aconite, the Christmas rose (Helleborus niger}, the spring arabis (Arabis verna], the rock alyssum or madwort (Alyssum saxatile), all the saxifrages, sedums, cam- panulas, early-flowering phloxes, adonis, orobus, and other similar plants, should also be found here. All these, and any other plants of similar habit, may be moved into the flower garden after the bedding plants are cleared off in October or Novem- ber, and taken back to the reserve garden in April or May, to make room for the more permanent flowering plants. Most of the temporary tenants of the reserve garden are propagated by division of the root ; and at the time they are taken back to their summer quarters in the reserve garden will be the best period thus to in- crease the stock. When they are severally subdivided, it may be necessary to shade them for a time, as the profusion and per- fection of next year's blossoms are depen- dent upon the healthy growth of their summer leaves. In no case, however, should shading be resorted to if the plants will bear full exposure to light and air with- out it, as direct sunlight is the great agent in elaborating the sap and inducing the production of flowers. The roots of some of the species, of which the Russian violet may be accepted as a representative, should be divided and young plants formed annu- ally. Others, of which the Alyssum saxa- tile is a type, flower better and are much more effective as large plants or patches. Hardy Annuals. — The reserve garden is also the proper place for sowing hardy annuals in the autumn, for embellishing the flower garden in the spring. They should be sown thinly broadcast in beds, in Sep- tember or October, and the oftener they are pricked out or transplanted the better. The checks incident to such operations ensure profusion of bloom and hardiness of con- stitution. In rapid-growing plants the sap is not only more abundant, but also r-ore watery, or thinner, than in those of slower growth. The affinity of frost for water especially exposes plants in this state to the full force of its blighting power. The thicker or more highly elaborated the sap, not only the more profuse the bloom, but the greater the power of the plant to resist cold. Hence arises the safety of broccoli that has been heeled over, and of stocks that have been transplanted, when either, if left to grow freely, are killed by the frost ; and hence, too, the benefit of transplanting annual' RESERVE GARDEN. 420 RESERVE GARDEN. that are intended to withstand the severity of the weather. The following annuals are among the best for this purpose : — Calliopsis (or Coreopsis} Drummondii) Calliopsis tinctoria, Clarkia pulchella, Clarkia pulchella alba, Collinsia 'iicolor, Collinsia grandiflora, delphiniums or larkspurs of different sorts and colours, Bartonia aurea, Erysimum Perovskianum, Eschscholtzia Californica^ Gilia capitata, Gilia tricolor, all the annual varieties of candytufts (Iberis), Leptosiphon androsa- ceus, Leptosiphon densiflorus, white and pink Virginian stocks, Limnanthes Dougktsii, all the varieties of nemophila, dwarf schizan- thus (Schizanthus pinnatus humilis), Schi- zanthus porrigens, Schizanthus Priestii, and the rock lychnis ( Viscaria oculata)y will also stand through ordinary winters, and be useful in furnishing the flower garden in spring or early summer. Many of the spring-sown hardy annuals would also be raised in the reserve garden, although in most gardens where they are extensively grown the majority of them are sown either in patches or lines where they are intended to flower. Half-hardy Annuals. — The reserve gar- den is also the proper nursing place for the whole race of half-hardy annuals. Stocks, asters, marigolds, clintonias, calandrinias, lobelias, mesembryanthemums, portulacas, cenotheras, the phloxes (including the varieties of Phlox Drummondii), salpi- glossis, maurandyas, tropaeolums, &c., raised on a slight hotbed, must be gradually hardened off, and planted in rich soil in a warm corner, to be moved in due time to sheir blooming quarters. Biennials and Perennials. — Hardy bien- rials, such as wall- flowers, Brompton stocks, sweetwilliams, foxgloves, &c., £c., should also be sown here in May or June, and receive their proper culture throughout the summer. Any perennials, such as hollyhocks, that are raised from seed, should likewise be sown in the reserve garden, and treated the same as biennials. Cuttings of any plants that will root in the open air should also be inserted here ; and a corner should be devoted to shrubs that are in- tended to be increased by layering. Pro- vision should also be made in this depart- ment for affording temporary shelter, and the means of gradually hardening off the whole stock of bedding plants. Even in small gardens, the north border or a por- tion of it should be utilised as a reserve garden. Cold Pits, Frames, ut generally the latter^ and sending up shoots into the air from the upper surface and roots into the ground from the surface below. When the stem assumes this root- like form, as it does in ginger (Zinziber officinale] and Solomon's Seal (Polygo- natuni), it is called a rhizome, from the Greek rhizoma, which means "that which has taken root." The primrose and kindred plants are also an example of natural pro- pagation by rhizomes, for the stem of the primrose, instead of being upright and ascending as in the great majority of plants, and attached to the roots below ground 1 y RHOD \\TIIE 422 RHUBARB. a collar, is an underground stem, or nearly so, thrust forth laterally from the plant, and from this the leaves and blossoms imme- diately grow, and the roots issue, taking a downward course into the earth. Rhodanthe (nat. ord. Compos'itse). These half-hardy annuals, which are now called Helipterum> though they are still, perhaps, better known under the old name, ire everlastings of great beauty ; valuable 'Jike for the decoration of the conservatory and flower garden. Their neat compact growth renders them suitable for flower beds and ribbons, while their rich-coloured flowers, elegant habit of growth, and pro- RHODANTHE MANGLESH. fuse blooming, make them objects of uni- versal admiration : the flowers, if gathered when young, are valuable for winter bou- quets. Succeed best in* a light rich soil and warm, sheltered situation. The best known is Rhodanthe or Helipterum Mangle$ii> bright rose, with silvery calyx, one foot. Rhododendrons. Of late years rhododendrons have so greatly increased and multiplied, and have improved so rapidly by crossing, that they are now, without exception, the most mag- nificent of all our hardy shrubs. They are also so cheap as to be brought within the reach of all, and yet many fine specimens *re so valuable as to continue the luxuries of the rich. They vary in price from 155. a hundred to 15 guineas a plant. Nothing equals the common Rhododendron Pan- ticum for underwood in plantations, or furnishing cover for game. There are about eighteen or twenty varieties of this class alone, including almost every shade of colour. The splendid R. Catawbiense variety has been almost equally fruitful in hybrids, and presents its formidable list of R. C. albums, R. C. roseums, R. C. pur- pureums, R. C. splendens, &c. Amidst hosts of other hardy hybrids, those from R. arboreum are as good as any. But the list of hybrids both for the green- house and the open air are so numerous that it is not possible to find room for them. Unless the intending buyer has consider- able experience, it is best for him to leave the selection to the nurseryman, stating the price per dozen or hundred that he is dis- posed to give. All rhododendrons require bog soil or peat. They bear frequent removal ; but care must always be taken not to break the ball of earth or loosen the soil from the stem. Rhubarb (Rheum). Although rhubarb is used as a substitute for fruit, and is therefore often regarded as such, it is in reality a very vegetable, and is properly included among plants whose leaves, leaf-stalks, and flowers are eaten. Rhubarb grows very freely, and is pro- pagated by means of suckers, or division of roots. It will grow without forcing ; but it is far better forced. The best kinds for early forcing are the Prince Albert and Linnaeus, which force with less heat than most other kinds. If r.iubarb be forced on the ground where it grows, nothing more is required than to cover with large pots and half casks, or even boxes, round and over which should be placed plenty of stable manure — by this method it is blanched ; but when forced in a frame, or otherwise, it is ijnnecessary to RHUBARB. 423 RIBBON-PLANTING. exclude the light, as there is no advantage in blanching it. Rhubarb may be planted at any time of the year, although mild weather in autumn or early spring is best ; RHUBARB, SHOWING HABIT OF PLANT. it should be planted on a clear open spot | on good soil, which should be well trenched 3 feet deep. The plants should be not less than 4 feet apart ; or, where it is j intended to take up some every year for forcing, a distance of 3 feet will be suffi- cient. Before planting, a good substance of very rotten manure should be worked into the soil. When the plants are to be increased, it is merely necessary to take up large roots and divide them with a spade : every piece that has a crown to it will grow ; and as it grows very quickly, this is a good method of propagating it. To insure fine rhubarb, a large dressing of well-rotted manure should be dug in about the roots, J as soon as you have finished pulling the ! leaves. It is not right to wait till the I winter before the plants are dressed. It will be useful to name the following i varieties here, although it is de facto a vegetable : — Ribbon-planting. The ribbon style in border-planting is very effective. As an illustration of it take the following arrangement : Supposing there be room for five or six rows, each row a foot or 18 inches wide — a double row of Lobelia speciosa next the edging, followed by a row of verbenas — any white sort ; these, again, followed by Calceolaria aurea, this by Tom Thumb, or some similar dwai f scarlet geranium. If there be rooni for more rows, the above may be followed by Salvia patens (blue), Coreopsis lanceolata (yellow), a row of white phlox, and a back row of dahlias. These should graduate in height and colour. This is merely given as a sample of what may be done. There are many plants that may be used in the same way, as IC&nigia variegata, isotomas, Phlox Drumniondii) which are all dwarf, and suitable for front row; petunias, heliotropes, lantanas, £c. , might form a second ; ager- i. Baldry's Scarlet Defiance. 2. Crimson Em- peror. 3. Early Red, 4. Hawke's Cham- pagne. 5. Johnstone's St. Martins. 6. Kershaw's Para- gon. 7. Mammoth. 8. Marshall's Early. 9. Prince Albert. 10. Stott's Goliath or Monarch, ii. Victoria. LEAF-STALKS OF RHUBARB. atums, galardias, salvias, a third. Again, Attrabiiis, or Marvel of Peru, still taller ; and then dahlias and hollyhocks, tallest RIBBON-PLANTING. 424 RICINUS. of all. Ribbons are also very pretty planted with annuals, as Phlox Drum- mondiiy stocks, asters, zinnias, xeranthe- mums, and sweet peas, all which graduate in height and vary in colour. These may be raised in frames in March and planted out in May, or sown in the open ground in May. Hardy annuals may be sown early in spring, and be allowed to flower, and then followed by bedding-plants or by biennials, which are best sown in May and planted out. Hardy herbaceous plants alone may keep a border perpetually gay, but are not well suited for massing. They hould, however, be arranged with regard o height and colour. Pansies, daisies, primroses, selines, &c. , being dwarf ; pinks, cloves, carnations, veronicas, &c., taller ; phloxes, various sorts of campanulas, chrysanthemums, &c. ; starworts, rudbeck- kias, £c., being tallest of all. Plants of this class flower at various times of the year, from early spring to late in the autumn. When spring-flowering bulbs are mixed up with them, it is not advisable to plant them near the edge of the beds. Plant them far back ; as they flower when the borders are comparatively bare, they are sure to be seen to advantage ; and the long grassy leaves do not disfigure the borders after they have flowered. Late bulbs, as gladiolus and lilies, being tall, should be placed far enough back to correspond with the other plants. A very good effect may be pro- duced by planting a ribbon-border or clump with plants of ornamental foliage. These look better than most people would imagine. The very commonest and cheapest of plants may be made use of; for instance, a front row of variegated arabis, which is a very common, hardy, herbaceous plant ; second row, Henderson's beet, treated as an annual. This is a dwarf, and very bright crimson-coloured sort, and grows about eight or ten inches high ; third row, Antenaria, or variegated mint ; fourth row, Perilla nankinensis — annual ; fifth row, ribbon-grass ; sixth row, purple orach, otherwise, Atriplex rubra. These graduate in height and colour, have a very pretty effect, and last the whole summer and autumn. Ribes (nat. ord. Saxifra'gese). A genus of pretty shrubs akin to the currant and gooseberry, hardy, deciduous perennials, bearing red, white, yellow, and green florets, clustered together in racemes. They are easily propagated by means of layers and cuttings, and thrive in any ordi- nary garden soil. They are treated in the same way as gooseberries and currants, and are subject to the same pests. Ribes san- guineuniy or the flowering currant, with pendant racemes of pink flowers, some- times deepening to light crimson, and R. Grossilaria, or the flowering gooseberry, with greenish yellow flowers, are the best- tnown varieties, and most used as garden shrubs. Richardia .flCthiopica. See Arum, or Calla. Ri'cillUS (nat. ord. Euphorbia'cese). A magnificent and highly ornamental genus of half-hardy annuals, whose pictur- esque foliage and stately growth (6 to 10 "eet in height), combined with the brilliant RIDGES FOR HEAVY SOILS. 425 RINGING. coloured fruit of the Giant varieties, im- part to select plantations, shrubbery, and flower borders, quite an oriental aspect. The Ricinus is better known to most people as the " Castor-oil Plant." In the gardens around Paris they form one of the principal features of attraction, and if planted out and grown as single specimens on our lawns and pleasure grounds, orna- mental foliage plants would form a new and striking feature. The dwarf varieties (3 to 4 feet in height) are of a compact growth, with rich and beautiful-coloured foliage, stems, and fruit : these are pecu- liarly adapted for breaking the monotony and giving a picturesque effect to the flower borders of suburban gardens. They succeed best in rich soil, and are generally propagated by seed. Ridges for Heavy Soils. There is an objection to laying heavy soil in ridges, except for certain purposes — as for sowing peas, beans, &c. For plant- ing early potatoes the advantages of ridging are great ; but heavy, clayey ground does not pulverise easily : the action of frost is wanted on the surface. Of course, the thicker the surface acted upon the better. In digging heavy ground, lay the soil in solid spits as they are cut out with the spade ; the spits should not be broken, but laid roughly together, with plenty of open- ings for the air and frost to act on them. Ground managed in this way is easier to crop in the springtime than that which has laid in ridges, because, when the ridges are levelled, a new surface is turned up, and the pulverised surface is buried. Ground ridges this month, therefore, should be levelled again in P'ebruary, and another surface exposed and pulverised. At this time it is very necessary to give attention to the state of the drainage ; unless surplus water gets away readily, great incon- veniences may result. Heavy rains may make the garden a swamp, and spoil the crops already put in, besides preventing others being sown or planted. The ground, moreover, wherever imperfect drainage exists, is rendered soft and slimy to the feet by heavy rains, and difficult to culti- vate. Ridging. A term applied to the operation of throwing soil into ridges, the ridge being formed of earth taken out of the trench that separates the ridges. The object oi ridging is to expose as great a surface as possible to the pulverising action of the frost. Ringing. The sap ascends from the roots to the stem, branches, and leaves of the plant by the woody fibre enclosed by the bark, but it returns to the root through the bark itself. Advantage has been taken of this to promote root growth in the case of hard-wooded plants which are difficult to deal with in this manner by an operation which is known as ringing, and which con- sists in removing a small narrow ring of bark all round the stem in the place in which the formation of roots is desired to take place. Care must be taken not to cut deeply into the stem— indeed, it is better to peel off the bark only, and not cut into the inner wood at all, for thus no hindrance is offered to the ascent of the sap. A callus is formed on the bark which forms the upper edge of the ring, and this thickens as time goes on, and ultimately emits roots. Branches and trailing stems operated on in this way should be firmly pegged down, and earth should be drawn over the incision. Layers should be brought into as erect a position as possible, and they may be shortened back. When layers are made from plants in pots, the layers should be pegged down in the soil RINGING, PROPAGATION BY. 426 ROCK-WORK. in the pot in which the parent plant stands^ or in separate pots properly supported. The layers should be watered occasionally, whether in pots or in the open ground. The autumn is the best season for the removal of well -rooted layers. Ringing, Propagation by. Loudon says : — " The Chinese method of propagating trees by first ringing, or nearly so, a shoot, and then covering the ringed part with a ball of clay and earth covered with moss or straw, is evidently on the same general principle as layering, and is better effected in this country by draw- ing the shoot through a hole in the pot, ringing it to the extent of three-fourths of its circumference near the bottom or side of the pot, and then, the pot being sup- ported in a proper position and filled with earth, it may be watered in the usual way. Some plants difficult to strike, and for which proper stocks for inarching are not conveniently procured, are thus propagated in the nursery hothouses." Roads. See Garden Paths, &c. Rocket (nat ord. Cmcif'erae). Very pleasing early - spring - flowering hardy annuals, biennials, and perennials, with deliciously fragrant flowers ; grow freely in any soil The flowers of the rocket (Hesperis) are mostly purple or white in colour. Propagation is effected by seeds in the case of annuals, and by division of the roots for perennials. Rock-work. Few ornaments of a garden have a better effect than rock-work properly disposed ; while at the same time it is also very useful. By means of it, not unfrequently, an ugly corner may be turned to very good account, and very many plants will be found to flourish and do well upon rock-work which can hardly be kept alive elsewhere. Some- times, when the garden or pleasure ground is very extensive, a piece of rock-work may appear, to be needed on its own account, to form a break in the scene ; in which case it will be desirable that the work be con- structed of the stone of the country, to give to it as natural an appearance as possible ; but, in a general way, for rock-work which is intended to be covered with plants, any material that comes most readily to hand may be made use of. The flint stones from the chalk and marl pits, where they can be had, form excellent rock-work ; and so, of course, do the different spars of Devonshire and Derbyshire also. As a general rule, rock-work should never be raised on grass, but on gravel, or on a con- crete foundation. It is also well placed around a pond or water-tank. In the centre of a square gravelled plot, a tall piece of rock-work is a very pleasing object. The spring of the year is the best season for making rock-work, since the soil will have time to settle, and the stones to become fixed in their position before the next winter's frost. Almost every county in England has some material natural to i* from which rock-work can be formed — even the larger stones of the gravel-pits may be used for this purpose ; and, in the absence of anything else, blistered clay from ROCK-WORK, PLANTS FOR. 427 ROLLER, GARDEN. the brickyards and clinkers from the smith's furnaces are not to be rejected. The sea- shore also, all along the coast, affords plenty of material out of which a little taste and good judgment will soon arrange something both agreeable to the eye and useful as a bed for many different classes of plants. On the piece of rock-work which has just been described may be planted almost every variety of hardy or half-hardy creepers — lophospermums, Maurandya canarienstSy the different sorts of peri- winkle, &c., &c. ; while lower down, between the stones, cistuses, saxifrages, and sedums may be grown. The wild sedums of our different counties form most interesting collections when placed by themselves in a separate piece of rock- work ; and so also do the wild ferns. (See also Root-work.} Rock-work, Plants Suitable for. All the smaller plants named elsewhere in lists, and many of the larger ones, are suitable for rock-work ; but at the risk of repetition it will be useful to append a list here exhibiting in a collected form the names of most of the plants that are suitable for this purpose, shortening it by omitting heights, colours of flowers, &c. .Achillea tomentosa. Alchemilla Alpina. Alyssum saxatile. Anemone Appenina. ,, Japonica. Antirrhinum majus. Aquilegia Alpina. ,, Canadensis. Arabis albida. ,, Alpina. Arenaria Balearica. Asperula odorata. Aster Alpinus. ,, ,, albus. Aubrietia deltoidea. ,, Graeca. Brachycome iberidi- folia. Calandrinia umbella- ta. Campanula Alpina. ,, Carpatica. „ fragilis. muialis. Campanula pumila. ,, purbinata. Cerastium tomento- sum. Cheiranthus Cheiri. Convallaria majalis. Cortusa Matthioli. Corydalis lutea. ,, nobilis. Crucianella stylosa. Dianthus barbatus. ,, dentosus. ,, plumarius. ,, superbus. Draba axoides. Epimedium diphyl- lum. ,, macranthum, ,, pinnatum. ,, purpureum. Eranthis hyemalis. Erinus Alpinus. Eritrichium nanum. Fritillaria meleagris. Fritillaria Persica ,, pudica. „ recurya. Gentiana acaulis. ,, verna. Gypsophila panicu- lata. ,, prostrata. Iberis Gibraltarica. ,, sempervirens. Iris lutescens. ,, pumila. Limnanthes Doug. lasii. Linaria triornitho- phora. Linnea borealis. Linum flavum. Lychnis Alpina. Lysimachia nummu- laria. Mimulus moschatus. CEnothera bistorta Veitchiana. ,, macrocarpa. ,, rosea. ,, taraxacifolia. Omphalodes verna. Onosma Tauricum. Phlox divaricata. nivalis. procumbens. reptans. stolonifera. subulata. setacea. verna. Polemonium reptans. Potentilla insignis. ,, rupestris. Rampndia Pyrenaica. Rhodiola rosea. Rubus saxatilis. Sanguinaria Cana- densis. Saponaria ocymoi- des. Saxifraga caespitosa. crassifolia. hirsuta. oppositifolia. rotundifolia. sarmentosa. umbrosa. Sedum aizoon. glaucum. rupestre. Sieboldi. Sempervivum arach- noideum. „ globiferum ,, tectorum. Soldanella Alpina. ,, montana. Spigelia Maryland- ica. Statice incana. Stipa pennata. Trollius Europaeus. Veronica gentianoi- des. ,, repens. ,, saxatilis. Vinca herbacea. ,, major. Viola lutea. ,. odorata. Zauchneria Californi- ca. Roller, Garden. The roller is a machine that is absolutely indispensable in every garden, whether large or small, being required both for the lawn and for garden paths, especially when gravelled. Ordinary garden rollers are of two kinds, known as single cylinder and double cylinder rollers, so called because the cylinder of the former is one and the same piece of metal from side to side, whereas in the latter it is in two equal and similar parts. There is a third kind of roller, known as the water-ballast roller, which is so constructed that the interior can be filled with water, thus considerably increasing its weight when necessary, and giving the owner the advantage of using it either as a light or heavy instrument at pleasure. The best rollers of all kinds are ROLLER, GARDEN. 428 ROLLER, GARDEN. made with balance handles — that is to say, there is a weight attached to the lower part of the framework and placed within the roller — and this weight being much greater than that of the handle and framework CONSTRUCTION OF GARDEN ROLLER. attached to it taken together, always seeks the lowest point, and thus keeps the handle upright, a great advantage, both in placing the handle out of the way when the roller is stationary on the lawn or elsewhere, and in keeping it in this position when out of use and put away in the tool -house or wherever it may be kept. The principle of the construction of the garden roller will be understood from Fig. I, in which the framework that connects the handle with the axle on which the roller revolves, and the balance weight depending from the axle within the roller, are clearly shown. The chief objection to the ordinary roller is that the edges of the cylinder are sharp', and therefore are apt to cut into grass or gravel when greater weight is thrown or pressure exerted in the direction of the edge, as will always happen in turning the roller, and another is the projection of the axle and frame to an undue extent, although the width of the frame in its greatest part must be greater than that of the cylinder in order to clear it. These faults have been reduced to a minimum in the double cylinder rollers, which are generally made with rounded edges, and thus turn more easily and without injuring either grass or gravel by cutting into them. The improve- ment in this necessary direction is carried to the greatest extent in the patent rollers manufactured by Messrs. T. Green and Son, Leeds and London, one of which, a double-cylinder roller, is represented in Fig. 2. In this, the edges are rounded to a very great extent, and the plates which afford a bearing for the axle are deeply recessed, so as to admit of the bending of the frame over and round the edge of the cylinder and its recession within it, so that the outermost point of the axle does not protrude beyond the edges. In the rollers th?.t are ballasted with water, and in some cases with sand, the interior is closed at a FIG. 2. — GREEN S PATENT GARDEN ROLLER little distance within the edges on each side with plates, forming a hollow drum. Bosses with projecting pins are fastened to these plates to form the axle, and on these the frame and its balance weight swing. There is an aperture in the roller which can be opened or closed at pleasure, ROLLERS. 429 ROOT PRUNING. through which water is introduced by aid of a funnel, and through which it can be discharged when it is thought fit to empty and lighten it. Rollers are made on the ballast principle for large lawns and field work, to be drawn by horse power, which will be found useful for large parks and road making. In the smaller rollers of this description the curved shafts by which they are drawn are attached to the axle, but in the larger ones the shafts are per- fectly straight, and are attached to parallel bars fixed to and connected with the axle by a triangular framing, which affords the bearings in which the axle revolves. With Green's Patent Rollers a weight box is supplied, which is placed on top of the shafts immediately over the roller, and which can be filled with stones, gravel, or sand, acting in the same way as sand or water-ballast within the roller. Rollers, Weights, Sizes, and Prices of. The following is a synoptical table of the dimensions, weights, and prices of garden rollers as generally supplied. Prices of various makers and dealers may differ in some respects, but these will form a fair guide to those who may wish for par- ticulars on these points as far as a fair average can be ascertained : — From this table it will be seen that the sizes of the water-ballast rollers are for the most part intermediate to those of the ordinary kind. The larger sizes of the water-ballast rollers as given above may be had fitted with shafts for pony at an extra charge. Root Pruning. The pruning or cutting back of the roots of trees is a never-failing remedy for over luxuriance and reluctance to produce fruit ; but the remedy is a severe one, and it may be doubted if it should be lightly performed. A less violent mode of treating the roots is sometimes tried with advantage ; the soil is removed from one entire side of the tree, and the roots laid bare, and left exposed during the summer to the effects of air and light. This has the effect of diminishing the vigour of the tree, and throws it into bearing ; or, if it fails, the same treatment pursued in the following spring will pro- bably be effectual. Should it fail, recourse must be had to root pruning. This is per- formed by digging a trench round the tree, so as to keep clear of all the roots, at the same time laying them all open about 3 feet from the stem of the tree ; then with a sharp axe, or chisel and mallet, cutting through a portion of the strongest roots, according to the requirements of the tree. SINGLE CYLINDER. DOUBLE CYLINDER. WATER BALLAST. WIDTH AND DIAMETER. WEIGHT. , PRICE. WEIGHT. PRICE. WEIGHT EMPTY. WEIGHT FULL. PRICE. in. in. 16 by 16 cwt. qrs. Ib. 130 £ s. d. I 12 O cwt. qrs. Ib. £ s. d. cwt. qrs. Ib. cwt. qrs. Ib. £ s. d. 18 18 200 i 15 o 220 2 12 0 220 330 300 20 20 ... 230 250 2 3 21 300 21 21 ... 3 i o 5 i o 400 22 22 3 i o 2 12 0 3 i M 3 10 o ... 24 24 ... 400 330 4 3 20 400 4 i o 800 500 26 26 ... 5 i o 400 6 2 21 4 10 o 27 27 ... 620 12 O O 700 28 28 ... 6 7 o 4 15 o 7 o 14 5 15 o ... 30 30 . . . ... ... 8 "a o l6oO 10 0 O 36 36. .- ... ... ... II 2 0 20 0 0 15 o o ROOTS OF PLANTS. 430 ROOTS OF PLANTS. If the tree is extremely vigorous, without producing fruit, two-thirds of the stronger roots cut through in this manner will pro- bably restore it to a state of perfect bearing ; the trench being filled up with fresh virgin mould, and the tree left at rest for a year. The proper season for root-pruning is the autumn, when the roots will send forth small fibrous spongioles. which elaborate the sap, and lorm inossom-buds. Should this operation fail to check the superfluous vigour of the tree, the roots may be again laid bare in the following autumn, and the- remaining large roots then cut away, avoid- ing, as much as possible, all injury to the smaller fibres which have pushed out from the previous operation. Should the tree still present an over vigorous growth, it must be taken up entirely, and all the strong roots pruned in, then replanted, taking care that in replanting the tree is raised considerably above its former level — a severe operation, but certain to be suc- cessful in reducing the tree to a fruitful state. Roots of Plants : What they are. With regard to the root of a plant, it must be remembered that it is not always the portion of the plant that happens to grow underground that is really its root. We are accustomed to call potatoes, par- snips, carrots, onions, beetroots, &c., root- crops, because the parts of them that we eat grow under the earth's surface, or nearly so, but in reality the parts of the potato that we use as food are tubers ; the carrot, parsnip, and beetroot, as well as the dahlia, are tuberous roots ; and the onion, in common with the lily and the hyacinth, is a bulb. What, then, is the root? The root or roots of a plant are offsets from that portion of the plant which is below the earth's surface, in the form of threads or filaments, terminating in soft little organs called spongioles, through which moisture and the various elements that combine to form the structure of the plant are absorbed from the earth. In the case of the tree, as the plumule develops into the hard stem, so the radicle branches into roots, which ultimately assume the form of subterranean branches, that afford safe anchorage to the tree itself, but at the extremities of these, and at the ends of branchlets which issue from them, are bunches of fibrous roots terminating in spongioles, through which the nourishment of the tree is derived from the earth, to be carried upward to the extremities by the branches that we famili- arly call roots below ground, through the stem and branches above ground. Similarly in the onion and all bulbs, the roots are not the bulbous portions which are produced and matured below the surface of the soil, but the coronal of fibres which issue from the edges of the circular patch at the bottom of the bulb. In the potato, the tuber, rich in starch and nutritive matter, is not the root, but the fleshy string-like fibre issuing from the tuber, through which the food stored up within it has been gathered from the soil by means of the fibrous roots. The junc- tion of the old root with the tuber may be readily distinguished on an examination of any tuber, for it differs from the eye in exhibiting no signs of vitality. It will be understood that this fleshy string-like fibre of which mention has just been made is the emanation from the root proper at the end of which the tuber has taken its origin, and that it acts as a medium of connection between the root and the tuber, and a channel for the conveyance of nutriment from the soil through the roots to the latter. Again, the real roots of the par- snip, the carrot, and the beetroot are the thread-like fibres which issue from the fleshy tuberous root on all sides, and especially at the extremity of the tuberous toot, which is commonly stalled the tap root. ROOT-WORK. ROSE, AYRSHIRE. Popularly speaking, the root of a plant is considered to be that part of the plant which is below ground, and which com- mences just where the stem ends. This junction of root and stem is usually called the collar, and in planting trees due regard should be had to keeping the collar in its proper position ; for if it be too low — that is to say, underground — the portion of the stem that is buried will be liable to canker, especially in the case of worked trees, where the junction is close to the ground ; and if it be too high, a portion of the plant that ought to be below ground will be above it, and will suffer from the exposure. After replant- ing, the rootlets or fibrous roots are sent forth anew by the parts underground for the collection of nutriment from the soil, in the same manner as leaves are put forth by the parts above ground for the recep- tion, aeration, and maturation of the sap, when it is brought to them from below by the system of circulation which carries the sap through the plant, in a manner anala- gous, though not similar, to that in which the blood is carried through the arteries and veins of animals by the action of the heart. Root-work. This is somewhat similar to Rock-work — which see. It is constructed by first forming a heap of soil of the height and extent required, and then arranging the roots of old trees, and even the stems and branches, tree stumps, &c. , round and over the heap in such a manner as to form pockets in which, when filled with mould, ferns, and various plants, trailing and Alpine, may be inserted. Rosa Multiflora. Of this there are many varieties. It is a delicate rose, and often killed to the ground by the frost. Covered with mats, it shoots so early that it cannot endure the spring frosts. Greviilea, or Seven Sisters rose, is a vigorous climber of this family, blooming in clusters, of shades varying from rose to purplish crimson ; the flowers change from crimson at first coming out, to pale rose and purplish crimson. To afford protection in very inclement weather it is recommended to thatch over the pillar in November with green furze, which admits air and keeps off the severity of the frost ; continuing this covering till March, and then removing it by degrees, so as to inure the plant to the cold before full exposure to it. In this way Alba, or Double White, a pretty pale flesh-coloured rose ; the Double Red, and Hybrida, or Laure Davoust, a most elegant and beautiful hybrid, with large flowers and beautiful foliage, will bloom in perfection. Rose, Ayrshire. The rapidity with which this rose covers a wall or pillar, added to its intrinsic beauty, renders it invaluable to the gar- dener. \Vhere its growth is encouraged, it climbs to the summit of the tallest trees, from which its long graceful shoots hang in festoons. The Ayrshire is the hardiest of climbing roses, and its cultivation and management is very simple. Layers of its long pendu- lous shoots root readily, and it strikes easily from cuttings ; it will grow rapidly where other roses will scarcely exist, and when placed in good rich soil, its growth is so rapid that a large space is covered by it in the second season of planting. It forms an admirable weeping rose when trained on wires. It is useful for trellis, verandah, or alcove, as well as in rough places of the park or shrubbery. Its luxuriant growth soon turns a rough and dreary waste into a flowery bank. ROSE, BANKSIA. 432 ROSE, BOURBON. Like the other roses, the Ayrshire has yielded many hybrid varieties : — Ayrshire Queen, — dark purple-crimson. Bennett's Seedling,— pure white ; forms a beautiful pendulous tree as a half-standard. Dundee Rambler, — white, edged with pink ; well -adapted for a half -standard for the lawn. Ruga, — pale flesh colour ; very fragrant ; a hybrid between Ayrshire and a tea-scented rose. Splendens, — creamy white, approaching flesh- colour when full ; crimson in the bud ; large, double, and globular ; one of the finest pendulous roses. Queen of the Belgians, — creamy white; cupped, large and double ; very sweet-scented. Alice Grey, — creamy salmon-blush. Countess Lieven, — creamy white ; cupped and double ; of medium size. Rose, Bank'sia. The flowers of this elegant rose are pro- duced in small umbels, each of three, four, to twelve flowers, at the extremities ill lateral shoots, branches of the preceding year's growth. The peduncles or stalks are slender and smooth, and about an inch and a half long, so that the flowers have a drooping habit when fully expanded. The scent of the flower is agreeably fragrant, not unlike to that of the sweet violet. It thrives best when planted against a wall. Vigorous growth and bloom has been produced by planting the rose ill a rich sandy loam, and against a wall with a south or west aspect, nailing its shoots close to the wall ; and when the wall was completely covered to the extent proposed, cutting away all the strong shoots as they appeared, leaving only those in- tended to produce flowers in the following spring. From August to February the only care required is to nail in all young shoots, only removing those that are super- abundant. Rose, Bourbon. These bloom more freely in the autumn than even the hybrid perpetuals, and most of them are quite hardy even in the ex- treme North of England. They are defi- cient generally in shape and fragrance, but brilliant in colour. They are extremely well adapted for planting in large masses, as half standards or dwarfs, or for furnish- ing complete beds of one colour. Several of these, such as Souvenir de Malmaison, Catherine Guillot, &c., have also a good form. Souvenir de Malmaison, a large, bright, flesh-coloured flower, is exquisite in bud, and one of the very best roses grown. The distinguishing characteristics of Bourbon roses are brilliancy and clearness of colour, large and smooth petals, falling in numerous and graceful folds. They are perfectly hardy, and thrive under the ordinary culture, delighting in a rich soil, like most of the roses, and requiring close pruning, except the more vigorous kinds. They are of slow growth, however, in spring, and thus they are best adapted for autumn-flowering roses. " The kinds of vigorous growth," Mr. Paul tells us, "form handsome umbrageous trees, with heads as large as summer roses ; they also look chaste and elegant trained on pillars. The moderate growers are pretty as dwarf standards. The dwarfs form striking and beautiful objects when grown on their own roots. A great many are excellent for pot-culture, and are beautiful objects in the forcing-house." The following are good Bourbon roses : — Acidalie,— blush-white, large and globular, does not expand well on some soils. Armosa, — very free bloomer, pink. Baron Gonella, — deep rose, approaching cherry colour, shaded with rosy bronze, bloom large and very double. Catherine Guillot, — carmine rose, bloom large, well formed, and full. ! Emotion, — delicate rose, free bloomer, flowers of excellent form, cupped and double. Jules Jurgenson, — deep velvety carmine rose, with slaty reflex in centre, large and well formed. Louis Margottin, — very pale rose, hardy, and of robust habit, flowers beautifully formed. Madame Isaac Pereire, — glowing carmine, large and perfect bloom, vigorous habit, and hardy. Malmaison Rouge (sport of Souvenir de Mal- ma-ison), — deep velvety red. Queen of Bedders,— deep crimson, free and con- tinuous bloomer, good for bedding. TOMATOES. CUCUMBERS. — — ROSE, BOURSAULT. 433 ROSES, CHINA. Queen of the Bourbons,— fawn, shaded with rose, most abundant bloomer, beautiful in bud, and highly fragrant. Rev. H. Dombrain,— fine dark crimson, medium size, good for potting. Setina,— silvery pink, of fine form, from United States, profuse bloomer, climbirg habit. Sir Joseph Paxton,— brilliant rose, shaded-crim- son, robust grower. Souvenir de Malmaison, — flesh, very large and full, a charming rose. Rose, Boursault. These are cultivated varieties of the Al- pine rose ; the shoots are very long, flexible, and smooth, in many instances entirely without spines, and the eyes are further apart than in most other kinds. The flowers are produced in clusters suitable for pillars, and from their naturally pendulous habit they may be trained to form weeping roses. They should be well thinned out in pruning, but flowering-shoots should only have the points cut off. Mr. Paul de- scribes the following as blooming from May to July :— Amadis, — deep crimson-purple, shaded with lighter crimson ; large, semi-double, and cupped ; the young wood whitish-green. Banksia, — flowers pink ; a very early bloomer. Black Boursault,— flowers whitish-blush, with deep flesh centre ; very double and globular ; of pendulous habit ; excellent as a climbing rose in a good aspect. Drummond's Thornless,— opens a rosy carmine, changing to pink ; flowers large, double, and cupped ; habit pendulous. Elegans,— flowers in clusters of semi-double rosy crimson; sometimes purplish, often streaked with white ; erect in habit, and suitable for a pillar. "racilis, — flowers early ; cherry, shaded with lilac-blush ; full-formed and cupped ; of branch- ing habit ; spines long and large ; foliage a rich dark-green. Inermis,— rosy-pink, becoming pale when ex- panded ; large and double, and of branching habit ; shoots spineless. Old Red Boursault,— opens a bright cherry, be- coming paler gradually ; large and semi double ; of pendulous habit ; a showy pillar or weeping rose. Weeping Boursault, — flesh-colour, like the blush ; of a pendulous habit, and suitable for a weeping rose. Rosemary. Although not used in cookery, should be found in every garden. It may be pro- pagated by layers which may be removed in April or May and planted out, or by slips or cuttings taken at the same time, and planted in a situation not too much exposed to the sun. They may be transplanted from the bed in which they have been struck in September or the following April. Hoses, Autumnal. These roses, which flower from June to December, are many in number, and are classified as Hybrid Perpetuals, divided by Mr. Paul into two sections, one comprising roses better suited for exhibition purposes, and the other roses that are more suitable for garden decora- tion ; Macartney Roses, Ramanas Roses, including the beautiful single red rose, Rosa rugosa, from Japan, whose large hips look like medlars of an orange-scarlet tint, varie- ties of the Rosa Polyantha hybrida^ Musk, and Perpetual, Moss and Scotch Roses, Bourbon Roses, Noisettes, Chinese or Ben- gal Roses, and Hybrid Tea-scented and Tea-Scented Roses. Roses, China. The common and crimson China roses are very beautiful, grown either in beds or on walls. Among groups of bedding plants mixed with geraniums, the common China rose, edged with the crimson, and sur- rounded with a white band of Alyssum or Cerastium tomentostim^ is very effective, distinct, and striking. Towards the end of May or the beginning of June, they will be in full beauty, and the mass of blush pink, with the setting suggested, is peculiarly soft and beautiful. By cutting off the flowering stems as soon as they begin to fade, a suc- cession of flowers will be secured through- out the summer. If, however, a short hiatus should intervene, the geraniums will fill up the gap. Several other China roses form beautiful groups for the flower garden* The best of them are, perhaps, the follow- ing :— 29 ROSES, CLASSIFICATION OF. 434 ROSES, HYBRID, PERPETUAL. Abbe Mioland, — purplish crimson, shaded. Alfred Aubert, — bright red, growth vigorous, free bloomer. Archduke Charles, — rose, changing to crimson, very large and full. Clara Sylvain, — pure white, large. Cramoisie Supe'rieure, — bright crimson. Duchess, — pure white, medium size, but of excel- lent form, free bloomer. Fabvier, — beautiful scarlet crimson. Mrs. Bosanquet, — pale, delicate flesh, free bloomer. Old Blush,— very free-flowering. This is the oiiginal China rose. Old Crimson, — deep bright crimson of a dark shade, free grower. The whole of the China roses require some protection in winter. Nothing is better than some coal ashes over the roots, say 8 inches thick, and a quantity of boughs of spruce, &c., bent over the tops, from 6 to 8 inches in thickness. Roses, Classification of. Taking height only into consideration, worked roses — that is to say, roses budded on stems or stocks — are distinguished as Standards, Half Standards, Dwarf Stan- dards, and Dwarfs. Of these, Standards are on stems from 2 \ feet to 4 feet from the ground to the budding ; Half Standards^ from I \ feet to 2\ feet ; Dwarf Standards ; from i foot to I £ feet ; while Dwarfs are worked close to or beneath the surface, and form vigorous bushes for winter planting. Dwarfs on own roots are small plants in pots, which should be planted out in early autumn, or kept in frames during the winter and put out in April. In addition to these forms there are Climbing Roses, whose habit is obvious from the name they bear. Further, roses generally are divided into two great classes or sections, namely, Summer Roses and Autumnal Roses. Roses, Evergreen. These ar- the progeny of Rosea semper- virens, which abounds throughout Europe in a wild state, and, like the Ayrshire, are employed as climbing and weeping roses. Their beautiful dark -green leaves grow on to the depth of winter, which has procured them the name, although, strictly speaking, they are deciduous. They are mostly trees of vigorous growth and abundant bloomers, adapted for pillar-roses : their small, but very double flowers, hanging in graceful cymes of fourteen to twenty on a branch. They require much thinning in the pruning season ; the shoots left being merely cut at the points, the others cut close to the base. Roses, Grafting. This operation is performed by cutting the top of the stock to a proper height by a clean horizontal cut, and then make a longitudinal V-snaPed cut down the centre, I, 2, or 3 inches long, according to the size of the stock. In this slit place the graft, after having cut the lower end of it to fit the cut in the stock. Having inserted it, bind the whole up with clay or grafting paste, as directed in budding. The best time for grafting roses in pots is January. Roses, Hybrid, Perpetual. With regard to the management of this variety of rose, Messrs. Paul & Son, of the Old Nurseries, Cheshunt, say :— " The culture of all the Hybrid Perpetuals is one of the simplest and may be applied to all the other classes. The soil cannot be too rich or deeply cultivated ; trenched ground with a thick layer of manure just above the forked-up bottom of the trench is desirable, and a fresh mulch of manure after planting, to be pricked in about March, will do good. The pruning in this class should be regulated by the growth of the individual varieties, the weak shoots being cut in close, the stronger sucker-like shoots beinp left longer. The stronger grown for good pillar, pyramid, or climbing roses, and the shoots for these forms of growth should be left almost their entire length." These lovely additions to the rose garden haw been raised in great part by crossing, ROSES, HYBRID, PERPETUAL. 435 ROSES, NOISETTE. between the Bourbons, the Chinese, and the Damask. Princess Helena was the first introduced in 1837 ; Queen Victoria followed ; and in 1840 there were above twenty varieties enumerated in the rose catalogue, one-fourth of which, however, were Bourbons. Since this time the number of varieties has greatly increased. Of these, Brightness of Cheshunt makes a good standard, Paul's Cheshunt Scarlet, a good bedder, and those marked * are excellent climbers. They are, indeed, fine roses, quite hardy, and very sweet. They thrive under the common treatment, and are suited alike for standards and dwarfs, for pot-culture and forcing. The following is a list of the best varieties of Hybrid Perpetual Roses for ordinary garden purposes, taken from Messrs. Paul & Son's catalogue : — American Beauty, — deep rose, large globular flower, sweet scent. Brightness of Cheshunt,*— very vivid brick red, approaching scarlet. Captain Christie, — climbing; silvery pearl. Charles Lefebvre,* — climbing ; bright crimson, shaded. Comtesse de Bernes, — bright rose, a kind of Victor Verdier. Edouard Morren,*— deep cherry-carmine. Garden Favourite, — flesh pink, free grower. Gloii'e de Margottin, — bright red, good for buds. Gloire Lyonnaise, — lemon, changing to lemon- white. Jules Margottin, — bright cherry-red, free and good. La Reine, brilliant glosay rose colour, shaded with lilac and sometimes with crimson. Madame A. Carriere,* -white-tinted. Madame Cecile Brunner,— light rose ; large bud. Madame de la SegUsre,— bright rosy-pink ; free and distinct. Madame de Trotter,*— cherry -red, shaded white Madame J. Gaulain, — bright rose, very distinct. Madame Limousier,— striped form of Madame Montet; distinct. Marquis of Salisbury,— bright crimson; free flowering in way of Camoens. Martin Cuhasac, — bright red, shaded carmine; very free. Mrs. W. Watson,— pale pink, with silvery back to petals. Paul's Cheshunt Scarlet,*— most vivid scarlet- crimson, semi-double. Paul's Single Crimson, — crimson, yellow stamens. Paul's Single White, pure white. Pride of Waltham,*— salmon; distinct. Princess Louise Victoria,*— light pearl or rosy flesh ; very free. Victor Verdier,— bright cherry-red. Roses, Moss. The Moss rose is supposed to be an acci- dental sport of the Provence rose. This rose above all others requires a warm rich soil, with an airy exposure ; moisture and shade also seem essential to preserving the mossy character; but this moisture must not partake of the stagnant nature. To ensure a fine autumnal bloom of moss roses, the soil should be deep and rich ; if not so naturally, the roses should be lifted annually or biennially, and re- planted with some rich fresh compost at their roots. When grown as standards, they should be budded on the dog-rose ; but they do best budded on short stems or on their own roots, and pruned close. The following list gives a few of the best moss roses, from Messrs. Paul and Sons' catalogue. Angelique Quetier,— pale lilac rose, one of the best mossed and freest. Baron de Wassenaer, -bright red, flowering in clusters, good form. Blanche Moreau,— very large pure white, well mossed. Celine, — flowers deep rosy-crimson, shaded with purple. Common Moss, — flowers pale rose; very large and full, well massed and globular. Comtesse de Murinais, — flowers pale flesh- colour when newly opened, changing to white ; large and very double. Crested, — bright rose, very large and full. Crimson Globe, — large deep crimson flowers of globular shape, well mossed. Gloire des Mousseuses, — blush, very large and full. Julie de Mersaut,— very beautiful rosy pink. Laneii, — rosy-crimson, tinted with purple. Muscosa Japonica, crimson, very much mossed. Nuits d' Young,— blackish crimson. CEillet Panache,— tinted white, striped with bright red, well mossed. White Bath,— paper white, large and full. Zenobia, — large and globular in form. Roses, Noisette. Of all the Noisette roses, nothing ran equal "Cloth of Gold," " Solfaterre." and ROSES, PILLAR. 436 ROSES, PILLAR. " Marechal Niel." The first does not bloom so freely as the other, but it is superlative when it does bloom. Both " Cloth of Gold " and " Solfaterre" do best when allowed to grow freely without much pruning ; and, unless in the extreme south of England, both require a wall with a south or west aspect. During severe weather they should also be protected. " Marechal Kiel " will do well in some warm localities out of doors in a south aspect, but is better under glass. The following list comprises the best roses of this class :— Aime'e Vibert, — a universal favourite, white, small but full flower in large clusters, very hardy. Bouquet d'Or, — deep yellow, copper-coloured centre large, full, climbing habit. Celine Forestier, — rich yellow, deeper in centre, very hardy, fragrant and good bloomer, good for south wall or conservatory. Cloth of Gold,— sulphur-yellow, deeper in centre, shy bloomer, requires south wall. Fellenberg, — bright crimson, brilliant and free bloomer. Jaune Desprez, — fawn and yellow, tinted with rose, very fragrant. Lamarque,— very fine, pale lemon, very large when fully expanded. Lily Mestchersky,— violet red, medium-size, but good form, good pillar or climbing rose. Madame Alfred Carriere,— fresh white, salmon- yellow at base of petal, large and well shaped. Madame Auguste Perrin, — pale rose, petals whitish at back, medium size but well shaped. Madame Caroline Kuster, — pale lemon, with canary-yellow centre, fine large bloom. Marechal Niel, — rich brilliant yellow, large, deep, full and well-formed, good for conservatory. Ophirie, — very peculiar-formed and unique- coloured rose, bright salmon and fawn. Perle des Blanches,— pure white, bloom perfect in form and of full medium size. Reve d'Or, — deep yellow, sometimes with coppery tinge, large full bloom, growth vigorous. Solfaterre, — sulphur-yellow, strong, large bloom. Triomphe de Rennes,— fine canary-yellow, large and full. Unique Jaune,— coppery-yellow, shaded with vermillion, clusters of bloom, full, but of medium size. William Allen Richardson, — orange-yellow, large well-formed flower, vigorous growth. Yellow Noisette, — lemon centre, flower large and very double. Roses, Pillar. There is no form in which the rose grows so gracefully as when rambling over rocks and climbing up trees or trellis-work, or over the alcove. In the garden, well- planted pillars may become objects of great beauty. To make roses grow with the necessary luxuriance, " each plant," says Mr. Rivers, " should have a station at least two feet in diameter to itself. In the centre of this space a stout stake of yellow pine, tarred at the bottom, should be driven two feet into the soil, and stand eight feet above the surface ; the upper part painted green. If the soil be poor, it should be dug out three feet in depth, and filled up with rotten manure and loam, lay- ing this compost about a foot above the surrounding surface to allow for settling. In wet soils they will grow the better for being on a permanent mound ; but such soils should be well drained. In the centre of this mound plant a single rose, or, it a variegated pillar is desired, place three plants in the same hole — a white, a pale- coloured, and dark variety. Having re- placed the soil, cover the surface with manure, keeping the manure replenished, as it is drawn in by worms or washed in by rain. Water with liquid manure in dry weather, and there will be shoots, probably eight or ten feet in length, the first season. Three of the most vigorous should be fastened to the stake, and the spurs from them will, for many years, give abundance of flowers. " I scarcely know," says Mr. Rivers, " whether to recommend grafted roses on short stems for pillars, or plants on their own roots. This will depend in a great measure upon the soil, and perhaps it will be as well to try both. Most roses acquire additional vigour by being worked on the dog-rose ; but some of the robust kinds grow with equal luxuriance when on their own roots ; finally, for dry and sandy soils, I am inclined to recommend the latter, unless plants can be procured budded on the Manetti stocks, which, of all others, are the best adapted for dry soils." Many excellent climbers or pillar roses ROSES, PLANTING OF. 437 ROSES, POMPON. are mentioned in the list of Hybrid Per- petuals already given, which sec. Glory of Cheshunt is a superb pillar-rose, its long flexible shoots adapting it for training up a column, or as a drooping standard rose. Roses of this character, throwing out long vigorous shoots of eight or ten feet in a season, require little shortening in the winter pruning : when cut in, they pro- duce abundance of wood the following season, and few flowers. If only tied up to a wire, or trained on a pillar, they will be full of bloom. Blairii No. 2 is of similar habit ; General Jacqueminot and Vivid are vigorous growers, and well adapted for large standards or pillar roses. Roses, Planting of. At the proper time, having selected the sorts of roses suited for the purpose, and of one or two seasons' growth from budding, and having cut off with a sharp knife all damaged root fibres, we proceed to plant. Good ordinary garden soil will produce the rose large enough for ordinary purposes ; but to grow it in perfection, unless a bed has been previously prepared in the manner directed above, a hole in the ground should be opened 2 feet square and a foot deep. This station should be filled with a com- post consisting of two good sized spadefuls of thoroughly rotted dung for each plant, mixing it well with the soil. Upon the soil thus prepared the standard rose is placed, the collar just above the level of the surface, and the fibres carefully spread out over the soil. Fill in the remaining soil and replace the turf, treading it gently until it forms a small mound, out of the centre of which the tree rises. A stake is now driven into the ground, near enough to support the stem, which is tied to it. Season for Planting. — The season for planting may be any time from the fall of the leaf till the buds again begin to swell, in April or the beginning of May. Aftet that there is danger of the tree dying off. Pruning. — In pruning newly planted roses, the object is to balance the head to the vital powers of the fibrous root, which has not yet thrown out its spongioles, and to give a graceful form to the intended head. If there be only one shoot from the bud, cut it down to two eyes ; if there be a regular head formed, cut away every shoot down to the lowest eye that points outward or downward, and cut away all weak shoots or thin ones that come in the way of a better, back to their base, leaving only such as are required to form the head of the tree. When the buds begin to break, rub off all that grow inwards, all that would cross other branches, all that are coming weakly, and all that would crowd the head and destroy its cup-like form. It is not a good practice to prune roses immediately after planting them. The tops should be left on for a month or six weeks, and then cut back or headed in to three or four buds from the stock. This will insure a healthy, vigorous growth. After the plants are established, the shoots may vary in length from 4 to 1 6 inches. The weaker the growth, the closer should they be pruned, and vice versa. As the growth proceeds, examine every bud, every curled leaf and shoot, for insect larvae ; for maggots, if not detected at once, soon destroy the vitality of the flower bud. Do this daily, syringing also with a fine rose syringe, very forcibly applied, which may destroy the green-fly, the thrip, and other enemies. If they get established, nothing but hand-picking, washing with tobacco-juice, or smoking with tobacco will get rid of them. Roses, Pompon. These beautiful little gems are admirab! * adapted for bedding-out purposes, from their singularly pleasing and distinct ROSES, POMPON. 438 ROSES IN POTS. colours, and the admirable contrast they present. The beds for these delicate roses, where they are confined to one variety, should be small, as should be the garden. They are best adapted for a fairy garden, which should be well drained, otherwise they could not survive the winter. What- ever the soil, the beds will be improved by its being removed to the depth of 18 inches to 2 feet, and replaced with a layer of stones and brick and lime rubbish, for drainage. If the natural soil is pretty good, it may be returned, after mixing it with a portion of decomposed cow dung, adding a little sand, the whole thoroughly blended together; rich vegetable mould full of fibre will do. These roses should be on their own roots and planted in autumn. The stocks on which they are usually budded are too gross for their delicate structure. Plant them 15 inches apart if it is intended to peg them down, so as to cover the bed ; if they are to stand apart, 18 inches will be better. In March, or early in April, when all danger from frost is over, they may be pruned. Use the knife sparingly ; cut out all dead wood, and regulate the branches ; this is all that will be required. As the season advances, water them from time to time with weak liquid manure, removing all decaying leaves ; and where they have bloomed in clusters, cut back to the next bud, from which they will again break, and bloom in the autumn. Short shoots, showing no bloom, should have the terminal buds pinched off on attaining the length of 5 or 6 inches ; the lateral shoots that are thrown out will probably bloom freely. During the winter keep the buds as dry as possible; they are even worth protecting from the cold rains. The following list includes the best of the class, those marked with an asterisk are miniature China Toses : — Alba,* — flowers compact and of the purest white. Burgundy,— pale purplish pink, very dwarf and small. Crested or Cristata, — rose with pale edges, large and beautiful. De Meaux,— rosy lilac, very small bloom. Etoile d'Or,— citron, vigorous and free blooming of dwarf habit. Little Gem, — miniature crimson moss, small and double. Lucida Rose Button, — very small double rose, miniature flowers, shining foliage. Mignonette, — delicate rose, changing to white. Rubra,*— rosy red ; like Alba in form. Spong, — rosy lilac, flower rather longer than De Meaux. White Burgundy,— white slightly tinted, dwarf. White Dwarf Pet, *— vigorous habit, with charming little flowers. All these roses may bfc grown in pots with advantage for blooming in spring. In March they require a moderate shift, using good fibrous turfy loam and cow dung. Protect them in a cold frame ; water occasionally with manure water, and pinch off all buds and shoots when about 4 inches long, and give another shift during the summer. In September they will be- come bushy plants, ready for shifting into their blooming pots, which must not be large, using the soil already recommended. Keep them in a cold frame through the winter, giving very little water. In spring, apply manure water, and prune as recom- mended for out-of-door culture. Roses in Pots. The best compost for roses is a good stiff loam one bushel, rotten dung from an old hotbed one peck, and half a gallon of pigeon dung, or double the quantity of sheep dung, well decomposed. Another good soil is a turfy loam, rather stiff, and well-decomposed cow dung in about equal parts. These, with good drainage in the pots, gentle forcing, careful examination for insects, and keeping the trees well balanced and neatly trained and tied down to theii supports, with constant attention to watering with liquid manure, as well as pure water, will produce abundance of bloom. All the strong-growing varieties, ROSES IN POTS. 439 ROSES, INSECTS IN. such as Hybrid Provence, Hybrid China, Hybrid Bourbon, French, Moss, Alba, Hybrid Perpetuals, and the strong-growing Bourbons and Noisettes, should be potted in autumn ; the delicate Bourbons and Noisettes, together with the Tea-scented and Chinas, should be left till the spring. In the autumn, before potting, examine the stocks minutely, particularly among the roots, cutting out any decayed parts, all knots, and the remains of suckers ; lop any wounded or bruised roots, and clean all well, as no such opportunity will again offer. When potted, cut back the head about a third, and at the end of February or the beginning of March cut back to from two to four eyes. In potting, let the pots be well drained with from one inch to an inch and a half of broken crocks, used in large rough pieces, having the concave side downwards. The pots should not be over large, — from six to eight inches inside the rims will be sufficient, according to the size of the plant, condition of its roots, &c. The pots should be plunged to their rims in coal ashes, or any garden soil, on an inverted flowerpot, leaving a cavity under- neath each to prevent the ingress of worms. In this state they should remain till about the middle of May, when they will require a shift. The same soil as before should be used, but, if possible, more rough, and they should be again plunged to the rim. During summer they will require constant attention as to watering ; they should have liquid manure at least once a week, using soft water at other times. The best liquid manure is the drainage of dunghills, and sheep or cow dung steeped in water and drawn off clear. Guano is excellent, but it requires great caution in using, owing to its variable quality. If, therefore, it is used, err on the safest side, and give it weak, — half a pound of guano to eight or ten gallons of water. During summer the plants re- nuire constant attention in taking off all suckers as they appear, as well as all flowei buds, as they are not intended to bloom this season. If the plants are too crowded with wood, they should be thinned out moderately, so that the remaining shoots may perfect their growth. All strong, gross, or watery shoots should have their extreme points pinched off before tbey get long, — say at six or eight inches : they will soon break out afresh, and add to the bushi- ness of the plant. If all goes well, these plants will, about the beginning of August, require another shift, which should not be over large. They must be treated in every respect as before until the end of September, when they should be shifted into their blooming pots. Roses, Precautions against In- sects in. In pruning roses, every bit of old wood, loose bark, &c., should be carefully re- moved, as it is exactly amid such debris that the larvae of caterpillars, aphides, &c. , are deposited. Whenever trees have been much affected with these pests, they might be coated over with a similar mixture to that recommended for vines, namely, equal parts of sulphur, soot, lime, and cow dung, made into a paste with strong soapsuds. This would remove all moss, &c., from the stems and branches, and prove an effectual preventive and eradicative measure ; it is less troublesome and unpleasant than hunt- ing throughout the summer for green cater- pillars, buried deep in rosebuds or wrapped up in leaves, and driving away the delicious perfume of the roses with the noxious fumes of tobacco water or other disagreeable com- pounds. When the green fly does make its appearance, a strong infusion of carbo- nate of ammonia (smelling salts) is the only remedy that ought to be admitted among choice roses in bloom. This will not only destroy the aphis, but supply the plants with useful food, and heighten, by its voU 5LOSES, PROPAGATION OF. 440 ROSES, PROPAGATION OF. tile aroma, if that were possible, the per- fums of the rose. In small gardens, a number of trees might quickly be cleaned with the aphis 1 ish (see Aphis Brush}. The shoot, wit1 s living freight, is firmly grasped between them, the brushes are gently drawn along the shoot, and the insects carried off by the bristles and con- signed to a well -merited death. Roses, Propagation of. The rose, deservedly called the " queen of flowers," is propagated by seeds, cut- tings, layers, budding, and grafting, and new varieties are produced by hybridisation — that is, by transfusing the male pollen of one flower into the stigma of another, with the object of producing seed which shall reproduce the best qualities of both the parent plants. The great obstacle to hybridising in our climate is the difficulty found in ripening the seeds. Tea-scented and Chinese roses must be grown under glass to do so ; but the seeds of most other varieties will ripen sufficiently out of doors. Roses, Propagation of, by Bud- ding. The stocks most commonly used for bud- ding and grafting roses on are the common dog-rose of the hedges, and the Boursault and Manetti roses, both of which are ob- tained by cuttings, the former being a good stock for tea-scented and Chinese roses, and the latter for the hardier roses, where vigorous growth is required. The dog- rose, however, is preferred by many for all purposes. The best time for procuring stocks for planting in ordinary soil is in the autumn, in October and November ; but where the soil is inclined to be moist, it is better to obtain them in the spring. The best stocks are those of two or three years' growth, a little under an inch in thickness, with the bark fresh, and having greyish- green sttipes. It is remarked that the graft does not take well where the bark is red- coloured. The stock should be of propel length, well rooted in the soil, free from spines, and without branches. Time for Budding. — The process of bud- ding may be done successfully at various seasons, the first condition being that the branch and stock are in the same state of vegetative progress. The dog-rose is in its best condition for operating on in July or August ; to operate earlier is considered a disadvantage. Under very favourable conditions of weather, they may be worked as late as September ; but vigorous grow- ing roses like the Provence, Moss, Gallican, Damask, Austrian, and other summer roses, are best budded in the former months. Those stocks, on the contrary, which grow luxuriantly and late, as the Manetti and crimson Boursault, are better worked in the beginning of September, provided the stocks are growing freely and the weather warm and sunny ; for in rose-budding, where the bud is exposed to heavy falls ol rain, it may rot and perish before it is united with the stock. The roses for which these stocks are suited are Perpetuals, Bourbons, Noisettes, China, and Tea roses, and all the autumnal late bloomers. But all these, when budded on the dog-rose, succeed best in July and August. Conditions for Budding. — The condi- tions required in budding are that the bark should rise freely and that the shoots are getting a little firm ; the buds will then take admirably. In budding, the top bud on the shoot should be commenced with, cutting from \ inch below the eye to £ inch or | inch above it. In removing buds, and especially from the stem, they should be cut very close, and, if large, the wound should be covered with grafting wax or clay. Where branch grafting is to be prac- tised, one bud should be placed on each branch of the stock, and that as near the stem as possible ; therefore, when this kind ROSES, PROPAGATION OF. 441 ROSES, PROPAGATION OF. of grafting is resorted to, it is necessary to preserve the equilibrium of the tree by pinching off the leading buds of over- vigorous branches. Where stem grafting is -adopted, the buds should be placed opposite to each other, one on one side and one on the other, so that one and the same ligature may serve for both. Where this cannot be accomplished, the buds should be placed as nearly opposite to each other as possible.. The operation should be performed quickly, and before the sun has time to dry up the juices of the bud ; and when circumstances render delay im- perative, the bud should be placed in the shade. Operation of Budding. — The operation of budding consists in transferring from one tree to another a small piece of the bark with an embryo bud, and inserting it beneath the bark of another. The only instrument necessary is the budding-knife. The process consists in making a cross-cut just deep enough to cut through the bark, and a longitudinal downward cut, making the letter "["• Then, with the thin handle of the knife, raise the inner edges of the bark under the cross-cut : it is now ready to receive the bud. This is procured by first removing the greater part of the leaf from a bud, leaving only the foot-stalk. Now make a longitudinal cut, about an inch in length, beginning below the bud and terminating above it, thus removing the bud with the bark, half an inch above and half an inch below the eye, with a thin slice of the wood : this is the cushion or shield. Having removed the wood as clean as possible, the lower point of the bud is now inserted in the open slip formed by the ~T> and push in the bud, first on one side and then on the other, pushing it gently under until two-thirds of it are under the bark, so that the eye of the bud is exactly under the opening caused by the raised edges of the bark. The upper part of the bud is now cut across, so as to fit it exactly into the angle at which the bark of the stock was cut ; it is now bound up with worsted or cotton thread, previously pre- pared. Tying commences at the bottom, passing upward until the whole is covered except the eye of the bud, sometimes a little damp moss or a leaf being tied over it for the sake of the moisture it gives out. From three to five weeks after the opera- tion, according to the dryness of the sea- son, it is necessary to examine the buds and loosen the ligature which binds it to the trees, otherwise the growth may be checked. Roses, Propagation of, by Cut- tings. Most roses may be propagated by cut- tings ; but all are not calculated for being thus propagated, bottom heat being indis- pensable for the more tender varieties. Summer and autumn are- the best seasons for cuttings. The shoot made in spring is taken with a small portion of last year's wood attached, and cut into lengths of 5 or 6 inches, selecting such as have two lateral shoots with five or six leaves to each. An inch of the old wood should be inserted in the soil, leaving at least two leaves above. From four to six of these cuttings may be placed round the inside of a small 3-inch pot, in soil consisting of equal parts of leaf mould, turfy loam chopped fine, and silver sand, watering them well with a fine rose, to settle the earth round the stems. When the water is drained off and the leaves dry, remove to a cold frame or place under handglasses, shade them from the sun, and sprinkle them daily for a fortnight. If threatened with damping off, give air and sun. In a fortnight the stems will have formed a callus. At this time they are greatly benefited by bottom heat ; they root more rapidly, and may soon be shifted singly into 3 -inch pots, and removed back ROSES, PROPAGATION OF. 442 ROSES, PROPAGATION OF. to the cold frame, in which they should be kept till spring. Roses, Propagation of, by Cut- tings in Autumn. The following is a method of striking rose cuttings in autumn, which involves but little trouble, and is adapted to all sorts of perpetuals, and other hybrids with hard wood, which are usually considered troublesome to strike. In September or October, when the young wood is well ripened, take off the slips, and cut them in the usual way, to two or three eyes, ac- cording to the distance which they are apart, taking care at the same time to re- tain a portion of the principal leaf-stalk and some of the stalks of the first leaflets. Put them singly in small cutting-pots, or in pans, using plenty of drainers, and filling up with peat or with a compost of sand and leaf mould. Plant with a small dibber, pressing the soil firmly to the base of the cuttings ; then water, and plunge the pots to half their depth in a bed sloping about 6 inches, and well exposed to the sun ; and cover with a handglass. In a fortnight or three weeks the cuttings will have cal- lused and emitted some rootlets. They will not succeed well in the shade so late in the season. An old melon bed is a good situation for them, as it does not afford too much moisture. Shading should be attended to for some time, if the autumn sun has much power. At the end of a fortnight air must be given by raising the edge of the handglass on a small pot. When frost sets in, keep the glass perfectly close, and put dry leaves round as high as the top of the handglass. In April or May the pots will be found well filled with roots, even in varieties most difficult to strike. The young plants should now be gradually exposed more and more to air and sun, till the handglass is wholly removed. The points of the young shr Dts should be removed, and all flower buds, if any show themselves, pinched off, so that the plant may gain strength and throw out branches. In June all those which have been struck in the same pans should be separated into single pots and plunged again. They may require shading for a short time, till they begin to grow, but they will soon be well established and fit to plant out. Roses, Propagation of, by Cut- tings for Dwarfs on own Roots. The following directions for striking per- petual and other roses, so as to produce dwarfs on their own roots, may be found useful : — Any time from July to October take the matured wood of the current year's growth of perpetual and other roses, having four eyes just protruding ; avoid, if pos- sible, blossom -bear ing shoots : plant these on a south border, burying two eyes in a sloping direction, from west to east, or, as the gardener's say, in graft. Be careful, also, to press the earth close round their roots, and occasionally look over them, as worms, &c. , may loosen the soil. Cuttings are best left for two years, to become well rooted before they are removed to the flower beds. Roses, Propagation of, by Seed. When the flowers have disappeared, and the seed pods begin to swell and ripen, they should be protected from birds ; at the same time, the pods should remain on the trees till perfectly ripe, and even turning black, when they should be gathered and buried in the earth, either in pots or in the ground. Before sowing, however, the operation of cleaning the seeds is performed by rubbing them out between the hands, preparatory to sowing them in February or March. So soon as the seed -pods are broken up, lay the seeds out in the sun to ROSES, PROPAGATION OF. 443 ROSES, STANDARD. dry, so that the pulp and husk may be entirely removed, and the seeds sifted and winnowed, when they are ready for sowing. Others prefer sowing the seed immediately on its reaching maturity. In this case they come up the following spring, with all the fine growing season before them. The hardier kinds may be sown in the open borders, selecting for the beds a sunny, sheltered spot with an eastern aspect, and shaded from the afternoon sun: the more tender varieties require a frame and glass. Preparation of Seed Beds. — The soil for seed beds should be light and rich ; the bed should be dug 18 inches deep, and the top spit broken up fine and raked level. In sowing, let the seed be laid on the top pretty thick, as only a third or fourth of the number sown will come up. Beat the beds smooth with the back of a spade, water, if the weather be dry, and sift over the whole about half an inch of light sandy soil. If the sowing takes place in spring, keep the seed in water for three or four hours before sowing, taking care that the germ of the seed, now developed more or less, is not injured. Seeds of the more delicate roses should be sown in pans thoroughly drained and filled with equal parts of leaf mould and yellow loam well mixed together. Water, as directed above, when the seeds are sown, and cover to the depth of half an inch with the same soil mixed with a little sand. Precautions against Insects, &*c. — In each case a sprinkling of soot or lime scat- tered over the bed will be a necessary pre- caution against insects and worms, for both of which the tender buds of the rose have great charms. About May, some of the seeds sown in February or March will ger- minate, and others will come up from time to time till autumn. The growing seed- lings will require constant care in shading, weeding, and watering when the soil is diy. Roses, Propagation of, by Suckers. Roses (some kinds much more than others) push their roots in a lateral direc- tion under ground, and throw up young shoots or suckers from them. These suckers, separated from the parent plant by the cut of a sharp spade, form flowering plants the same season, if separated in the spring and transplanted to suitable soil. When a rose-tree is shy with its suckers, it may be stimulated by heaping earth round the roots. Roses, Soil, &c., for. The rose grows vigorously in most kinds of soil ; nevertheless, it does best in a light free soil, a little fresh, amended from time to time with some well-decomposed manure. A calcareous soil is especially recommended. Delicate varieties do best in fertile, sandy soils, and in peat earth. The dog rose grows vigorously in stiff earth. For nearly all roses, however, the soil can scarcely be too rich. They delight in a stiff loam liberally incorporated with manure, and no excellencies of variety, climate, or culture can compensate for the absence of this indispensable desideratum. Where the natural soil is light and sandy, the whole bed should be removed to the depth of 2 feet, and replaced with the richest natural fibrous loam at hand, thoroughly mixed with decomposed dung. Roses, Standard. These roses are used to decorate the lawn. Sometimes they are placed irregu- larly ; at others they are planted at regu- lated distances round the walks ; at others, again, they occupy the centre of the flower- beds ; and in some instances they form separate beds in the rosarium, the different sizes being either planted in separate beds or in rows, rising towards the centre ; the tallest standards forming the central row ROSES, STANDARD. 444 ROSES, SUMMER. while dwarf bushes pegged down occupy the edges of the bed. In all cases the effect they produce will depend upon the skill with which they are arranged, as to colour, continuous blooming, and general cultivation. They may be divided into — 1. Dwarf standards, having a stem vary- ing from six to twelve inches. 2. Half-standard, — a foot and a half to two feet and a half high. 3. Standards, — three feet high. 4. Tree and weeping roses, — four to five feet. 5. Pillar roses, — eight feet and upwards. Standard roses are grafted or budded, generally on the stock of the dog roses, budding being the neatest process, as well as the most certain, inasmuch as, in graft- ing, unless it is very carefully done, the head is not always secure. In budding, although two buds are inserted, one well placed is better, and it is not unusual to cut off the upper one if the lower one pro- duces a vigorous shoot.' Much of the success, however, depends on the choice of the stock. Where it is intended to form a collection by preparing stocks and budding, November is the best month for laying them in : they should be selected of sufficient thickness to support a good head, and of vigorous growth, removed to the place they are to occupy, with their roots uninjured, and as much of the soil attached as possible, and planted in soil rich enough to promote a vigorous growth before bud- ding. Where the collection is to be procured from the nursery, the proper way is to go over the nursery grounds while the roses are in bloom, and select plants of the kind desired, bearing in mind that the foliage, as' well as the flowers, should be healthy, for no after-care will compensate for a sickly growth and dwelling habit. In removing them some care should be taken to see that they are transplanted without lacerating the roots ; above all, that they are not suffered to bleach in the sun, while others are being removed. Let them be taken up with as much soil at the roots as will cling to them. When they reach their destination, let them be laid in a trench by the heels until they are re- quired for planting ; and when all is ready, the roots trimmed and all decayed ones cut off, lay them out horizontally, so that they radiate all round the stem ; and while the tree is firmly held in its proper place sprinkle the compost over them gradually, pressing it gently into the roots ; the hole being filled up, so as to form a slight mound round the stem, and a coating of mulch placed over all, take care that the crown of the stock is level with the surface of the mound, neither planted too deep nor too shallow ; drive a stake of sufficient strength into the ground, and tie the stock firmly to it, in such a way, however, as to avoid galling. Where the rose-tree is planted on a lawn, the turf should be neatly replaced, and the mulching rendered inoffensive to the sight by a covering of moss, held in its place by a neat layer of pebbles arranged round the stem. Whether in beds or other- wise, standards should never be nearer than 3 feet to each other. Roses, Summer. The Summer Roses include the Provence Roses, the Striped Provence and French Roses (Rosa Gallica}^ Moss Roses, Scotch Roses, Austrian Roses, and the beautiful double yellow rose known as Rosa sulphured. The Summer Climbers in- clude the Boursalt and Ayrshire Roses, some Evergreen Roses, such as Felicite Perpetue, and Banksian Roses. The fine old favourite, the Cabbage Rose, is a pink Provence, the white variety being com- monly known as the Provence Rose. Among the striped roses stand conspicuous ROSES, TEA-SCENTED CHINA. 445 ROSES, TEA-SCENTED CHINA. the old York and Lancaster, with white petals, striped and flecked, carnation-like, with glowing streaks of red. The Moss Rose, a variety of the Provence Rose, is too well known by its moss-like setting to require further mention. The Austrian Roses are all yellow in colour. Roses, Tea-scented China. With protection (see Roses, China], many of the following tea-scented roses may be grouped in beds, in a similar manner to the common China roses. The best and hardiest of these delightfully sweet-scented roses is Gloire de Dijon, a large buff-coloured rose with orange centre. It resists frosts, both on walls and as standards, when hundreds of the hybrid perpetuals will be killed : — Abricote, — bright rosy fawn. Alphonse Karr, — purplish red, shaded crimson, large and well-formed, vigorous habit. Belle Lyonnaise,— deep yellow, changing to salmon, large and finely formed. Bougere, — deep rosy bronze, large and double. Catherine, Mermet, — rosy carmine, flower large, full, and beautiful. Cheshunt Hybrid, — cherry carmine, large and full ; good climbing rose. Gloire de Dijon,— fawn shaded with salmon, flower very large and fragrant, vigorous habit. Goubalt, — bright rose, buff centre, robust grower. Isabella Sprunt, — sulphur-yellow, back of petals white, habit vigorous. Madame Damaizin, — pale rose and salmon, free bloomer. Marie von Houtte, — yellowish-white, striped and edged with bright rose, large and full bloom. Perle des Jardins, varying from pale yellow to deep canary, splendid well-formed bloom. Pink Gloire de Dijon, — deep shade of pink, but otherwise similar to Gloire de Dijon. Reine Marie Henriette, — beautiful reddish- cerise, flowers like those of Gloire de Dijon in form, very vigorous. Reine Marie Pia,— deep rose, crimson centre, large bloom, vigorous habit. The very best of the tender tea roses is Devoniensis, a creamy white, large, truly magnificent variety ; for beauty of bud, size, consistence, and perfume of flower, it stands unrivalled. It has a peculiar odour, all its own, and may be known out of a hundred by the scent alone. The leaves, too, are beautiful and glossy, the habit good, and for a tea rose it is a robust grower. It will do well in a sheltered situation out of doors in summer, and a clean sunny window will be the spot for it in winter, failing a little greenhouse. The following are also beautiful varieties of this interesting class : — Adam, — rose large and splendid. Alba Rosea, — white, tinted with rose, a beautiful flower. Barillet Deschamps,— pale lemon, large. Baronne de Sinety,— deep yellow, back of petals rose, blossoms fine and well-formed, habit very vigorous. Bouton d'Or,— deep yellow, small bloom. David Pradel, — pale rose a.id lavender, very fine. Devoniensis, — creamy white, a beautiful rose. Devoniensis, Climbing, — creamy white, like preceding, but vigorous climber. Gloire de Bordeaux, fawn shaded with salmon, blooms very large and fragrant, vigorous habit. La Boule d'Or, — rich golden yellow, large and full. La Pactole, — lemon, small blooms in clusters. Madame Bravy, French white, rosy centre, beautiful, large, and full. Madame Eugene Verdier, — rich chamois, very fragrant, seedling from Gloire de Dijon, Moire, — rosy fawn, beautifully shaded. Niphetos, — pure white, large and round in form. President, — pale rose, shaded with salmon, fine form, large, and double. Princess of Wales, — rosy yellow, centre rich golden yellow, flowers large and well formed, habit moderately vigorous. Rubans, — white, tinted with rose and fawn, blooms large and well formed. Safranp, — bright apricot, changing to fawn, very beautiful. Souvenir d'un Ami, — deep rose, large and full, one of the best, good shape. Souvenir d'Elise, — creamy white, with blush centre, large and full. Vicomtesse de Cazes, — beautiful bright orange- yellow, with deeper centre shaded with copper, delicate habit. Roses, Tea - scented China, Planting. For planting out in conservatories, covering walls in arcades, or heated walls covered with glass out of doors, these roses rival the camellia in beauty of tint, and some of them almost equal it in shape; and nothing can equal their perfume. They also form excellent pot plants for adorning the greenhouse or conservatory throughout the summer ; and in a warm conservatory they can be had in flower ROSES, TREATMENT OF. 446 ROSES, TREATMENT OF. at almost any time. Their tenderness excepted, they require the same general treatment as other roses. They thrive well in a well-drained compost, of equal parts loam, leaf mould, and peat, and a sixth part broken charcoal and gritty sand. Before starting them in the spring is a good time to pot them ; and if they could be plunged for a few weeks after this operation in a gentle bottom heat of 50°, so much the better. They could then be placed fully exposed to the light on a greenhouse shelf. The pots should be placed in a larger-sized pot, with a layer of moss between, to protect the roots from the heat of the sun. After flowering, the shoots should be cut back to two or three eyes, and any weak old shoots cut entirely out. They will break again directly, and flower several times throughout the season. After their last flowering in September, they may be placed for a month or so exposed to the sun out of doors, to give them a season of rest, and be kept dormant until wanted again in the spring. If re- quired for winter flowering, however, they must be moved out of doors, and a rest, if possible (for it is not always possible), secured earlier ; or they may remain under glass to ripen their wood ; be pruned at the end of September or beginning of October ; kept in a genial temperature of from 50° to 60°, and they will be in flower at Christinas. When growing freely, they enjoy weak manure water ; but they are very impatient of an excess of moisture or gross food. They are, perhaps, less liable to the attacks of insects than other roses ; but if they appear, they must be at once destroyed, as nothing should be allowed to tarnish the beauty of their exquisite foliage, which constitutes one of the chief charms of this delightful family of roses. Roses, Treatment of. As a matter of course, where there are so many varieties of roses, it may be imagined that the same treatment will not suit them all. The following summary of treatment suited to each class is therefore appended. Its utility is self-evident, as it focuses the special culture of each sort, as it were, and brings the cultural directions suitable foi each into the smallest possible space. 1. Provence, or Cabbage Roses. — Prune close, shortening every shoot three or four buds down, one half in April, the other in October, and keep beds of dwarfs clear from weeds. Propagate by budding and layers in July ; graft in March. 2. Moss Koses require the same severe pruning as the above, and a light rich soil ; pruning, one half in May, the other in October, in order to have a succession of flowers. Propagate by layers and budding in July ; graft in March. Some of the perpetual mosses are very beautiful : as Madavtc Edouard Ory, dwarf and compact, bright rosy carmine; Salet, bright rosy, with blush edges. To insure a free bloom in autumn, shift and replant in fresh compost in November. 3. Hybrid Provence Roses. — Prune mode- rately short ; propagate by budding and layers in July, and by grafting in March. Robust, vigorous roses, requiring good soil enriched with manure. 4. French Kose (Rosa gal lica).— Prune mode- rately short, and cut out all spray-like shoots ; pro- pagate by budding and layers in July and August ; graft in March ; mulch round the stems, and water with manure-water in dry weather. 5. Hybrid China. — Prune moderately short ; shorten strong branches, and cut out the smaller shoots ; propagate by budding and layers in July and August, by cuttings from Septemberto Novem ber ; graft in March ; mulch the surface round the stem in winter with good rich manure, adding to it as the blooming season approaches. 6. Hybrid Bourbons. — Prune rather short; propagate by layers and budding in July and August, by cuttings from November to December ; graft in March. 7. Austrian Briers — Little pruning required ; only shorten the shoots and thin out old wood, leaving young wood untouched; propagate by cuttings and budding in July and August. It requires a rather moist soil, and dry pure air, and little manure. 8. Banksian Roses bloom on the previous year's wood. Prune in July, when the season is over, and the plant will produce bearing wood in the autumn ; propagate by cuttings in May and September. It requires a wall, and should be on its own roots ; blooms freely in dry soil. 9. Hardy Climbing Koses require little prun- ing ; but thin out old wood as soon as the blooming season is over; the after-growth will furnish bearing wood for next season. 10. Damask Perpetuals. — Prune moderately in June, and again in November; propagate by budding and layers in July, graft in March ; a dry soil, with an annual supply of manure on the sur- face, and the soil just stirred in November. n. Hybrid Perpetuals. — Prune very close in ROSES, TREATMENT OF.- 447 RUE. summrr ; propagate by budding from June till September, and by layers in July and August; graft in March. In June cut off half the number of clusters showing themselves ; these will bloom again in August. Towards the end of February, cut off from each vigorous shoot of the preceding sum- mer two-thirds of its length, and from weaker ones two-thirds, cutting put all superfluous ones entirely. An annual removal is recommended, stirring the bed well and replanting, adding two shovelfuls of equal parts rotted dung and good loam if the soil be poor ; equal parts rotted dung and road-sand if it be stiff. 12. Bourbon Roses. -Prune close to within four or five buds, in April, the more delicate kinds, and moderately all vigorous growers; in summer the ends of long vigorous shoots on standards or pillars should be pinched off. Propagate by bud- dings, layers, and cuttings, from June to Novem- ber ; graft in March. On Manetti stocks they are beautiful dwarf standards. They require high culture, plenty of manure water, and a coating of mulch, covered with moss for appearances, and to prevent radiation. 13. Tea-Scented and China Roses require little pruning. Thin out old wood about the end of March, and shorten to half its length, to en- courage young shoots ; propagate by budding, layers, and cuttings, from June till November. The tea-scented roses are more tender than the China, and require more care. On their own roots, and in moist soil, they require a raised bed, made of 9 inches of brick rubbish and 12 inches of garden mould and rotted dung in equal portions, well mixed, adding a little river-sand. In this plant the bushes, 2 feet apart. Protect in winter by green furze or other spray, which will admit plenty of air while keeping out frost. 14. Noisette Roses. — Slightly shorten and train the shoots at their full length, and thin out in March ; propagate by layers, cuttings, and budding, from June till September ; graft in March. When done flowering, cut the shoots close to the ground to encourage others for next season. Tea-scented Noisettes are tender, and require a wall in a warm aspect, or a pillar well sheltered; the soil well manured, and stirred 20 inches deep. 15. Scotch Roses will grow almost anywhere, in any soil, in the crevice of a rock, or in a sandy soil, with plenty of air ; they require little pruning, and bloom early in the season. Roses, Weeping. Should be worked on stems 4 feet and upwards in height. In the first pruning they are cut close in ; the shoots are thinned out as with standards, shortening back the others to give vigorous growth. Having a pendulous habit and long shoots, these roses soon sweep the ground, but the nature of the stocks, whether the dog-rose or the Manetti be selected, limits the height at most to 10 or 12 feet. Support must be provided by a strong stake, while th«» head is extended outwards, and directed downwards. For this purpose light iron rods and wire hoops, of sufficient circum- ference, will be found very useful. I' grown simply as an object of decoration on the lawn, a standard 7 feet high, with a head five feet in diameter, formed of some of the climbing roses, as the Ever- green rose, decorated with some of the hybrid perpetual hybrids, as La Reine, Colonel de Rougemont, General Jacque- minot, or General Simpson, drooping to the ground in a curving line, or on a larger scale, making an arbour, will form a beautiful tree when in bloom. Rotation of Crops. The growth of the same crops succes- sively on the same piece of ground im- poverishes the soil, but, as only particular substances in the earth are exhausted by particular plants, it is possible to resort to a rotation of crops. In the garden certain rules must be observed in this rotation. Plants belonging to the same order or of similar structure must not succeed each other. Thus, cruciferous plants (turnips, etc.) should be followed by leguminous (peas, beans, etc.) ; deep-rooting plants (carrots, etc.) by spinach, etc. ; bulb plants by seed plants ; exhausting crops, like cabbage, by lettuce, etc. The best system of rotation is that of Mr. Errington, formerly gardener at Oulton Park, Cheshire. He follows "deepeners," such as asparagus, by "preparers,"*.£., potatoes, carrots, etc.; these, after manuring, by surface crops, as lettuce, etc. ; and these last by the " dete- riorators," the exhausting cabbage tribe. Rue. Is a medicinal plant, but is sometimes used for garnishing. It may be propagated from seeds or slips sown or taken in March or April. It is useful as a medicine for fowls when mixed into a paste with a little soot and butter. very heart faints and my whole soul grieves the moist rich smell of the rotting leaves And the breath Of the fading edges of the box beneath, And the year's last rose. Heavily hangs the broad Sunflower Over its grave i' the earth so chilly, Heavily hangs the hollyhock. Heavily hangs the tiger lily." TENNYSON. AGE. This useful garden herb is a salvia, which is a very extensive genus in botany. The sage of the herb bed (Salvia officinalis] should be grown in a light rich soil. It is propagated by slips, which may be taken in the autumn, as soon as the plants have ceased flowering, or in the spring of the year. It may also be propagated by layers in spring or autumn. Salvia (nat. ord. Labiatse). The sweet herb known as sage, Salvia officinalis (see Sage), has been already noticed. There are, however, many species belonging to the genus, and some of these are annuals, others biennials, and others perennials, which are grown in the garden as ornamental bedding plants. Chief among these are S. Patens, a half-hardy 448 SALSAFY. 449 SAND, SILVER OR GREY. perennial with flowers of a beautiful deep blue, and S. Splendens, a greenhouse shrub, with fine scarlet blossoms. S. fulgens is another beautiful greenhouse shrub with scarlet flowers. A rich soil is necessaiy for salvias, and protection under glass during SALV1A SPLENDENS. the winter. They are propagated by seeds and cuttings, sown or set in rich soil and . placed in a frame with gentle bottom heat. If raised from seed, the seed should be sown very thinly and placed in a frame over gentle bottom heat. Salsafy. This root also likes a light, rich soil, and will grow well on ground that has been well manured for the crop that precedes it. The seed should be sown in April, in drills from 12 to 15 inches apart, and the plants should be thinned out to a distance of from 6 to 9 inches apart in the rows. They will be ready for use in the early part of November, when some of the roots may be taken up and stored for winter use in sand, as recommended for beetroot. It is a biennial, and the stalks that it throws up in its second year, and which will ulti- mately develop into flowers and yield seed, supply a tender and useful vegetable that is not unlike asparagus. The oyster-like flavour of the root when properly dressed has obtained for it the name of the Vege- table Qvster. Sand, Silver or Grey. Silver or grey sand is an indispensable ingredient in all composts for plant-culture. In its purest state, silica or sand is the debris of quartz, or rock-crystal, which is com- posed almost entirely of silica, hard sand being the result of the disintegration and decomposition of rocks by the chemical agency of the atmosphere, assisted by the mechanical powers of the winds, of rain, and abrading waters. It varies much in its composition ; oolitic rocks, granite, lime- stone, and red and green sandstone, all furnishing their quota. As an impalpable powder, it occurs in all soils. In its chemical character silica is an important constituent of organic life, being found, on analysis, in most plants. Mixed with soda, and heated to redness in an iron ladle, silica dissolves to a fused mass ; if thrown into water, it will desolve ; and if nitric acid be added, it becomes gelatinous — indications of the means by which silica is treated in the great alembic of nature, and adapted for absorption into the tissue of plants. In preparing sand for the more obvious mechani- cal purpose which it serves in plant-culture, it is divested of the other constituents of the soil, by washing and sifting through a fine sieve. In this way, all soils will yield a portion of this element, which may be dried ; but the best mode of SALSAFY. procuring it is to proceed to some stream running through any of the sandstone countries. In such a stream there are few places where winding eddies have not formed a sand-bank, and one of these will ;enerally furnish an ample supply. In towns and in country places where access SAPONAKIA. 45° SAUCERS. cannot conveniently be obtained to running streams or to the seashore, in some parts of which fine sand is found, which is most useful for gardening and gricultural pur- poses, the sweepings of the streets and roads, especially the grit blown on to the side-walks of streets in windy and dry SAXIFRAGE FOR ROCK-WORK. weather, will furnish sand of an excellent quality for plant culture. And the sand that is washed by heavy rainfalls down roads or the channels of streets, between the curb of the side-walks and the roadway, and deposited in some hollow under the hedge in the former, or at the mouth of a gully -hole in the latter, is equally desirable. Grit of this kind is known as road sand. It forms a useful ingredient in compost for the culture of the auricula. When thoroughly washed, and all par- ticles of clay extracted, let it be thrown into a heap, sheltered from the rain, and turned until it is thoroughly aerated ; it should then be harvested in a dry place till wanted for use. Silica is a constituent of all the grasses, and is absolutely neces- sary for all those cultivated in our hot- houses and gardens : it is also a necessary ameliorator in all clay soils. Its value, therefore, is beyond calculation to the gardener. Sapona'ria (nat. ord. Caryophyll'ese). Of these charming little plants it is im- possible to speak too highly ; they carpet the ground with their pretty little star- shaped flowers during the summer and autumn months. For edgings they are unequalled, bearing cutting back, if neces- sary, for a late autumn bloom ; in beds they produce a fine effect, while in ribbons, the pink, rose, and white make a striking com- bination. The hardy perennial trailer, Saponaria ocymoides, or Rock Soapwort, flowers so profusely in the spring and early summer months as literally to present to the eye a sheet of rosy pink : a fine rock- plant. Chief among the annuals are S. Calabrica, with flowers of a rich deep pink, £ ft. , and its varieties, S. C. rosea and S. C. alba, with rose and pure white flowers. Saucers. It is better to avoid the use of saucers for plants in pots because, instead of the drain- age being able to soak away, the water remains in them and is apt to be taken by absorption into the pot and soil again, and to render the latter sour. To keep plants THICK-LEAVED SAXIFRAGE, OR SOW's EAR. healthy the shelves on which they stand should be covered with slate, the joints being run in with cement, or a ledge 3 inches wide should be nailed to the edge of the slieii and gravel, or shingle, to the depth of 2 inches be placed on it. The pots are then placed on the slate or shingle, as the case may be, and the drainage being thorough the plants remain healthy and unharmed. The roots, moreover, will generally run in the shingle. SAVOY CABBAGE. SCABIOUS. Savoy Cabbage. See Cabbage, Savoy. Saw-flies. Among the saw-flies, so called from the females possessing a saw-like apparatus at SAXIFRAGE— " MOTHER OF THOUSANDS.' the extremity of the body, Cladius pectini- corms, which is very destructive in gardens, measures a sixth of an inch in length, and is black and shining in body, with dirty SAXIFRAGE — "LONDON PRIDE." yellowish- while legs. It feeds upon the leaves of various kinds of roses ; the caterpillars are found feeding on them in the beginning of July, remaining in the pupa state a fortnight or three weeks, when they appear as perfect insects. There are many other saw-flies which do great damage to roses, gooseberries, currants, &c. , but they need not be named and described indi- vidually here. To get rid of them shake them from the bushes and remove the soil on which they fall, or sprinkle the bushes with powdered sulphur, or with water to which hellebore has been added. Saxifrage (nat. ord. Saxifra'gese). A very large genus of plants that are for the most part perennial, and are very hardy and easy of cultivation. Many species are rock plants, invaluable for rock and root work. They are easily propagated by cut- tings on division of the root, except in the case of Saxifraga Sannentosa^ also called " Creeping Sailor " and " Mother of Thou- sands," which is propagated like straw- berries, by stolons, or creeping and hanging runners. " London Pride" (S. timbrosa) is a saxifrage, and a plant that does well in the shade. Scabious (nat. ord. Dipsa'cese). This genus of flowers, consisting of a disc: studded with numerous stamens, which SCABIOSA ATROPURFUREA. have obtained for them the name of " Pin- cushion " flowers, and surrounded with petals, blue, lavender, rose, purple, and SCALE. 452 SCILLA yellowish white, is fairly large, and com- prises many hardy annuals and perennials, propagated by seed and division of the roots. The most noteworthy perhaps are Scabious arvensis, or " Gipsies' Rose," the lilac scabious of the cornfields, and S. atropurpurea, or ''Mournful Widow," a dark purple species often found in gardens. They are chiefly useful as cut flowers for nosegays. Scale. An insect that infests and does much in- jury to many trees and plants both under glass and out of doors. The males are in the form of small flies. The females look like small plates or scales —whence the name- fixed to the leaves and bark, and appearing like flat grey or brown spots on them; Different trees and plants are infested by different kinds of scale, and each has its distinctive name. Apples, pears> peaches, nectarines, roses, camellias, oranges, lemons, acacias, palms, and oleanders, are especially susceptible to injury from them. They are destroyed by the application of Strong soapy water in the proportion of I SCHIZANTHUS— " BUTTERFLY FLOWER." oz. of soap to I quart of water, paraffin in the proportion of ^ gill to I gallon, lye of wood ashes or potash, tobacco water, and fish oil. Scarlet Runners. See Beans, Runner. SchizantllTlS (not. ord. Solana'cese). A genus of half-hardy annuals with flowers of pretty shape, variously coloured, from which it has obtained the name of the SCILLA NUTANS, OR BLUEBELL. Butterfly Flower, or Fringe Flower. The plants are well adapted for pot culture in good rich soil, and as border plants. If seed be sown under protection in autumn the plants raised will flower in the green- house or conservatory in early spring. The species chiefly sown in open ground as a border plant is Schizanthus pinnatus, which, with its varieties, is as hardy as all the ordinary hardy annuals. Scilla (nat. ord. Lilia'cese). The species of t'ds genus are very numerous, the best known being Scilla nutans, otherwise the Bluebell, Harebell, or Wild Hyacinth. They are spring flower- ing, bulbous plants, and as such their culture and propagation is the same as for bulbs, which see. S. Sibirica^ or Siberian Scilla, is equally well suited for pot culture or growing in the open ground. S. bifolia pracox is another useful species, but those that are most in use and their varieties will be best ascertained by reference to the bulb SCISSORS FOR GARDEN USE. 453 SCORZONERA. catalogues of the seedsmen and nursery- Scissors for Garden Use, &c. The necessity for scissors in gardening is so palpable that it is not requisite to enlarge much on the minor operations for which they are called into action, namely, those of cutting flowers and foliage in the garden and in the greenhouse. It will be sufficient to observe that for the preservation of flowers, fronds of ferns, &c., in water, it is always better to snip them from the plants that bear them than to break them away. For cutting flowers any ordinary semicircular notch is made in one blade to hold the shoot while the sharp blade is being brought down upon it and forced through it ; in the latter, the sliding action that is imparted to the blade turned towards the spectator causes the cut that is made by it to partake in some degree of the drawing action of the knife blade, and to exert less of the direct and downward pressure cf the ordinary scis* sors. Pruning scissors cost from 2s. to 35. 6d. per pair ; but the Improved Sliding Pruning Scissors cost 55. per pair. Scissors, and especially those used for thinning grapes, as figured at B, should kind of scissors will do ; but for the more important operations in which their aid is sought, namely, pruning and thinning fruit, scissors of a different form and des- cription are required. Types of desirable forms are given in the accompanying illustration, in which A shows a pair of scissors adapted for general purposes. The pointed shape shown in B is pre- ferable for thinning grapes, the pointed termination of the blades rendering their introduction between closely packed berries far easier, and with far less chance of injury to those that are to remain, than blades with broad and blunted points. For pruning, an operation for which scissors have been coming more and more into use since the trimming and forming of trees by pinching has been adopted, an instrument with short, broad, strong blades is necessary. Of pruning scissors, the ordinary kind is shown at c, and an improved kind at D. In the former, a SCISSORS FOR PRUNING, &C. always be carefully wiped and cleaned after using them, and all scissors used in gardening operations should be provided with stout leather sheaths. Scorzonera (not. ord. compos'itse). The culture of the scorzonera is similar to that described for salsafy, -which see, but the rows should be from 15 to 18 inches apart, and the plants from 9 to 12 inches apart in the rows. To have it large, it should remain over the second season. It seldom grows large enough for use the first year, but is none lh« worse lor re- maining two or even three years before using. SCREENS. 454 S EAR ALE. Screens. If a screen be needed in the garden, it may easily be managed, and with a very good effect, by means of hollyhocks and chrysanthemums. Hedges of either of these flowers will serve to shut out from view anything that may be required, and at the same time produce a beautiful effect. Hollyhocks can be staked separately in the line where they are wanted ; but with chrysanthemums the best plan is to stretch a rough wire fence to which they may be trained. This may be made of a few rough stakes supporting three or four rows of wire, over which on both sides the plants may be trained after the | fashion of espaliers, so as to cover all the framework. Many other plnnls also there are which will sug- gest themselves to every gardener as capable of forming a pleasing and effective tem- porary hedge. Seakale : its Culture. The best way of raising seakale is from seed, which should be sown in drills, about 4 or 5 feet apart, and 3 inches deep ; this should be done about the begin- ning of April. When sufficiently large to tell which plants are strongest, thin them to about three inches ; in July transplant some, leaving them in rows a foot or 18 inches apart. During the summer and autumn the ground should be kept clear of weeds and often stirred ; and in dry weather copiously watered, especially that which has been transplanted. Some recommend planting these thinnings on ridges raised a foot high or so, placing the plants in threes SCOKZONERA. or fours, the clusters being a yard apart and the ridges five feet. It is affirmed that when heat is applied to seakale planted in this way, the ground gets warmed, so that the plants get bottom heat as well as top. There is, however, no actual advantage in this practice ; but it is as well to plant them in clumps of three or four together, a yard apart : in this way a bunch of crowns is formed, over which to place a kale-pot, a great advantage in that which is to be forced. Management. — Seakale is best managed in the open ground, where, if planted on ridges in clusters of three, a yard apart, it may be forced any time in the winter, by putting the pots on, and covering them with about 3 feet of fermenting dung : with a moderate heat, it takes about three weeks, from the time of covering till ready tc cut. Never break off the leaves, but leave them to decay naturally, when they may be re- moved. Speedy Mode of Growing Seakale. — Sea- kale may be grown in about nine months from the seed, in the following manner, in place of the expensive and tedious process now followed : — The ground having been prepared in winter, and subjected to a month or two of frost in a rough state, the seed should be sown in the latter end of March or early in April, and even as late SCYTHE. 455 SCYTHE. as May. Having selected a piece of ground open but sheltered, trench it 3 feet deep, using plenty of manure — at least a third part — mixing it thoroughly with the soil ; when ready, strike the ground into 4-foot beds, and sow two rows of seed in patches 2 feet apart. As soon as the plants come up, thin out to two or three in the patch, and when fairly established, remove all but one. In the course of the season use abundant supplies of liquid manure, and keep the surface well stirred. In autumn the beds will be covered with fine healthy leaves and plump crowns. Pick off the leaves as they decay, and as soon as they are ail off, the crowns should be slightly covered with ashes or tanner's bark till wanted for forcing. In November, the machine, the scythe is comparatively little used, and is regarded rather as an agri- cultural instrument than a gardener's tool. But even now there are times when the use of the scythe on a lawn is necessary, and that is when the grass has been allowed to grow to too great a length to permit of its easy and ready removal with the mowing machine. This happens when a lawn or grass plot has been neglected owing to the house to which it is attached being without a tenant, or when the grass has been left too long in the previous autumn, not having been cut to the latest possible date as it should have been. The scythe may be described as a long curved blade, thin at the edge and for the greater part of its breadth, but BOYO'S PATENT SCYTHE. plants will be ready for forcing, either on the beds or in some more shaded corner. Forcing Seakale. — Treated in the manner described above for asparagus, seakale may be produced as a Christmas vegetable, for it may be put in hotbeds for forcing much earlier than asparagus, indeed as early as November. At the same time, it should be said that January is the best month in which to begin forcing seakale, for if forced earlier, it is neither so good nor so abun- dant, and if left till March artificial heat is almost unnecessary. In forcing seakale the light should be excluded entirely from the frame, otherwise it will not acquire that whiteness and delicacy which it is desirable that it should possess. Scythe. Since the introduction of the mowing having a back of considerable thickness, projecting on the side that is uppermost when the scythe is in use, like a flange. This blade is set at the end of a long handle, the handle being bent in such a way as to enable the operator to maintain a semi-upright position, and attached to the handle by two iron rings are two short and upright cylinders of wood, by which the instrument is grasped and worked to and fro with a swinging motion of the body. The edge is soon dulled, and requires sharpening from time to time with a scythe stone, a round stone of coarse grain, like the spoke of a ladder in shape and costing about 4d. Scythe blades are supplied separately at 35. 6d. each. It should be said that blades are cranked or not cranked ; when cranked, there is a hinge between the blade and SECATEUR, FRENCH. 456 SEDUM, OR STONECROP. the socket, into which the end of the handle is put. A lawn scythe, not cranked, costs 5s. 6d., but one that is cranked, and notably the Vulcan, costs is. more. Boycl's Patent Scythe, of which an illustration is given, is cranked so that the blade may be brought close to the handle ; it costs 8s. 6d. complete, but it possesses an advantage which other scythes do not — namely, that of being adjustable for use by either a tall or a short man. Warren's Cast Steel Scythes, an excellent kind of scythe blade, of superior quality and highly tempered, are supplied by Messrs. John G. Rollins and Co., Limited, American Mer- chants and Factors, Old Swan Wharf, London Bridge, E.C., in sizes from 32 inches to 44 inches, at 425. per dozen, or 35. 6d. each. American scythe snaths, or handles, are supplied by the same firm in two kinds— the ordinary handle at 2s. 6d. each, and the Patent Loop handle at 35. 6d. each. The Americans say they are perhaps the best and most convenient to handle, because an almost upright position can be main- tained when using them. Secateur, French. This is an instrument for branch pruning which is very commonly used in France. An illustration of it is supplied above, from which it will be seen that it is a pair of shears of great power. In the instrument figured the blades are both falciform or curved, and the edge of each is bevelled in the opposite direction, so that the flat parts of the blade may work smoothly one on the other. They are fastened together by a rivet, on which FRENCH SECATEUR. they turn. When not in use they are held together by a strap at the ends of the handles, as shown ; when open, the blades are forced apart and held in this position by the spring between the handles. Secateurs cost 35. 6d. and 45. each, accord- ing to size. Sometimes they are made | with a movable centre, and sometimes one blade is hooked, as in the illustration, while the edge of the other is convex or rounded in form from heel to point. When made in this way, the cut that is made is cleaner than when both edges are straight or curved inwards. They are recommended by Loudon for pruning vines. Sedum, or Stonecrop (not. ord. Crassula'cese). The common name of a large and im- portant family of plants chiefly suitable for rock work and culture in hanging baskets. They are mostly herbaceous perennials, but there are a few annual and biennial species among their number. The j leaves are generally thick and fleshy, varying in colour and form. In many varieties the SEDUM S1EBOLDI, OR SIEBOLD S STONECROP FOR HANGING BASKETS. leaves are of a pale green, as in Sedum Sieboldi, or Sieboltfs Stonecrop, in which, as the flowers begin to fade, the leaves assume a reddish tinge. In this variety the flowers, SEEDS, HINTS ON SOWING. 457 SEEDS, MODE OF SOWING. which proceed from the end of the long stalks or branches on which the leaves, slightly notched, grow in whorls of three, are pink in colour, but in the great majority the flowers of plants belonging to this genus are white and sometimes, but very rarely, blue. Any of the sedums will grow luxuriantly in pots or any com- mon garden bed, and do well, as already said, on rockwork, in the open border, or on walls, especially those of ruins fast going to decay. The best known are S. Sieboldiy already mentioned, vS". acre, commonly known as Wall Pepper, and SEDUM ACRE FOR ROCK-WORK. S. spectabile> of two of which illustrations are given. Seeds, Hints on Sowing. There are two points in connection with seed sowing which are of paramount im- portance to the success and vigour of germination and the regularity, strength, and luxuriance of the crop, besides that of having good and perfect seed. These are, the proper mechanical condition of the soil, and the regular and uniform depth at which the seed is sown. The presence of air, moisture, and a certain degree of warmth, is essential to the germination of seeds. In the absence of these agents the process of germination will not go on. The soil is the medium by means of which a supply of air, moisture, and warmth is kept up ; but, unless the soil be in a proper condition, it cannot supply these. If it be very dry, it contains too much air and too little moisture. The proper condition of the soil is when it is neither very dry nor very wet ; it is then moist, but not wet ; it has the appearance of having been watered, and is easily crumbled to pieces in the hand, with its particles adhering together. (See also Germination, ) Seeds, Mode of Sowing. In the majority of instances the follow- ing treatment is recommended as the best in such situations where soil, locality, and other causes require care ; otherwise, in favoured sheltered positions, the plants may succeed with more hardy treatment. Small seeds should be only lightly covered with soil, and if unusually dry weather prevail, a light surface protection with moss or similar material is beneficial till the seeds have well germinated. The scale of humidity and temperature adapted to the germination of seeds and rearing of young plants is regulated by the tempera- ture plants are capable of bearing in their mature growth. The hardier the species, the lower the average temperature required for germination, and vice versd, allowing for the artificial stimulus naturally required for establishing young plants in their primary stages of growth. The absence of surface or bottom heat may in some measure be compensated by early ventila- lation, if required ; and, where compatible, closing up pits or houses with a high degree of sun heat and artificial moisture. As a uniformly modified degree of moisture in the soil is indispensable to the successful germination of seeds, it is important that the seed stores or pots should never remain SEEDS, MODE OF SOWING. 458 SEEDS, MODE OF SOWING. parched or dry overnight ; such omissions, when repeated often, prove injurious to the vital germs, and cause the eventual loss of the produce. Preparation of Seeds before Sowing. — The following instances will serve as types of the treatment of different sorts of seeds. The seeds of Martynia, abronia, and tro- paeolum generally require peeling previ- ously. Cobaea seed is best planted edge- ways. Geranium seed pricked in, leaving the feathery tail or pedicle out. Calceolaria seed germinates best without heat. The seeds of ipomaea and convolvulus, when very dry or as old imported seed, often refuse to vegetate, should be taken up and slightly cut on the surface, or on the edge, apart from the eye or vital speck (where it exists outwardly), which should be preserved from injury. Rhodanthe and other seeds of similar character should be well soaked in water before sowing. Cy- clamen should be sown as soon as ripe. Orchid seed may be sown on a rough- barked block, and suspended in the shady, humid atmosphere of a tropical stove or orchid house ; warmth and continued moisture are essential. Fern seed should be sown on the surface of rather coarse heath soil, without further covering of soil ; place over it a flat square of glass, or a bell-shaped one ; place the pot in a dish, and keep the surface soil uniformly moist and covered until the plant germs are well developed, after which gradually admit air. Seeds of Clianth^^s Dampieri should be sown singly, each in a small pot. Mistletoe seeds should be inserted within the bark, on the under side of the branches, to prevent the birds from feeding upon them. Soil for Surface Covering. — In the sow- ing of exotic seeds in pots, especially those of a small and delicate structure, and those in which germination is slow and irregular, one very essential point consists in obtain- ing the most suitable quality of soil for surface covering. Whilst it is important that the bulk of soil used in such opera- tions should be well pulverised, and pro- portionately porous throughout, in order to admit of a free and quick growth during and after germination (which a too retentive and close quality is unfavourable to), it is still more important that the soil with which the seed is covered should not only be well pulverised, but also rendered less retentive of moisture ; for effecting which, where prepared soils are not at hand, that which is intended either as mixture or otherwise should be passed through a suitable sieve, and also be thinly spread in the open air, or exposed to the influence of artificial heat until thoroughly dry or parched. To admit of using the soil thus dried for covering seeds, it is readily sprinkled with pure water, and passed through the hands until it admits of being easily spread. By thus reducing the retentive quality of the soil, it admits of a more uniform and healthy circulation of moisture during the first growth of the young seedlings, and, moreover, preserves the surface soil from becoming stagnant by the incipient germination of moss, &c., brought on in unprepared soils by repeated after - waterings. Two very important benefits arise from using a less retentive quality of soil for covering seeds : first, in admitting of a proportionately greater depth of soil upon the seeds, and yet being equally pervious to the atmosphere, thus acting as a preserving medium in the case of small and delicate seeds exposed to extreme alternations of temperature ; secondly, by dispensing to a great extent with the excess of sand in mixture, which is too often used in covering seeds gener- ally. Beyond the requisite amount of sand as a mechanical agent or force in modify- ing too retentive soils, it only impoverishes in proportion to its bulk. The more nutri- tive the elements of soil for the growth of SEEDS, MODE OF SOWING. 459 SEEDS, STORING. plants, the less they are subject to injury by extremes of temperature, other condi- tions being equal, and vice versd. Watering. — In all cases where rare or delicate - bodied seeds, uncertain in their periods of germination, are covered with prepared soil, as described in the fore- going remarks, it is requisite that the pots or seed pans thus sown should be carefully well watered immediately after, to settle the soil down to a uniform surface, suit- able for after-waterings. As all seeds lie dormant in the soil for given periods pre- vious to the swelling of the inner sub- stance, which is the first evidence of their fermentation, it is not safe to give succes- sive heavy waterings for a short time after the first application, as referred to. Even the softest seed should be but gradually moistened, and not repeatedly gorged with water, before they are able to digest or decompose it through the medium of living organs ; and from this fact it is legitimately inferred that there should always be a due period allowed between the first repeated watering of seeds, to admit of a healthy evaporation from the surface soil at each watering, especially where the material for covering seeds has been indiscriminately applied, without previous exposure to the ameliorating and purifying influences ol sun and air. Daily or alternate waterings are essential, as required, first known by the gradual upheaving of the surface soil, and secondly, by the bursting or expan- sion of the seed-lobes above the soil. Water may always be given more freely wLh advancing growth to the most delicat germs, admitting a healthy evaporation or dryness of surface as the test of a furthe: supply. The importance of uniform atten tion to watering may be best learnt by experience and observation ; but the inex perienced cultivator may be reminded that to omit a single watering overnigh of young plant germs from seed, when in parched state, often leads to the even- ual loss of the whole, and, in many indi- idual instances, is the incipient cause f constitutional debility throughout the entire life of the plant. Seeds for Kitchen Garden. See Kitchen-garden Seeds. Seedsmen, Names and Ad- dresses of. It will be useful to the reader to give icre the names and addresses of a few seedsmen in London and different parts of :he country, placing them in alphabetical order. There are, of course, many others whom it is impossible to mention through >vant of space, and the names that are jiven are inserted merely for the benefit of those who would rather have selections of seeds for use throughout the year in bulk ins-tead of purchasing them as he may want them in his own immediate neigh- bourhood : — G. Barr and Son, King Street, Covent Garden, me. Isaac Brunning and Co., 3, Regent Street, Great Yarmouth. H. Cannell and Sons, Swanky, Kent. Carter and Co., 237 and 238, High Holborn, W.C. Carter, Page and Co., 55, London Wall, E.C. Viccars Collyer and Co., Central Hall, Leicester. G. Cooling and Son, Bath. Daniels Brothers, Norwich. W. B. Hartland, 24, Patrick Street, Cork. Hooper and Co., Co-vent Garden, W.C. Ryder and Son, Sale, near Manchester. Richard Smith and Co., Worcester. Stuart and Mein, Kelso, Scotland. Sutton and Sons, Reading, Berks. James Veitch and Sons, 544, Kings Road, Chelsea, S.W. E. Webb and Sons, Wordsley, Stourbridge. B. S. Williams, 'Victoria and Parodist Nurseries, Holloway, N. Seeds, Storing. In collecting seeds the greatest care is required to have them ripe, and that the SENECIO. 460 SENECIO. bags into which they are put are correctly marked. All that is known of the parent plant should be added, if it is other than a common kind, including the soil in which it is found. When collected, the seeds should be carefully dried. When they belong to pulpy fruit, separate grains from pulp as soon as decomposition begins, and dry before placing them in bag. Seeds for Trees, Where to Buy. The seeds of a large variety of trees and shrubs can always be obtained from Messrs. Viccars, Collyer, and Co., Central Hall, Leicester, at rates varying from 4d. to I os. 6d. per oz. in one case, and 12s. 6d. in another. The price per packet for some varieties range from 6d. to 2s. 6d. As prices can always be obtained on applica- tion, and will in all probability be subject to variation from numerous causes, it is not desirable to state them here at length. Sempervivum(«^. ord. Crassula'cea). A large genus of shrubby herbs of curious form and habit, mostly hardy perennials, although some require the protection and warmth of a greenhouse. An example, likely to be familiar to all, may be found in Sempervivum tectorum^ the Common Houseleek, or Sengreen, which grows on roofs and the top of thick walls, and often increases to such an extent as to cover a considerable area. The flower is red, the leaves ciliated at the edges, and pale green in colour with a brown tip. Sempervivums are well suited for rock-work ; they like a sandy soil, and are propagated by offsets taken from any old-established plant. Senecio {not. ord. Composi'tss). A very large genus of annual, biennial, and perennial plants, some hardy and fit for outdoor culture, while others are only suitable for the greenhouse or hothouse. The common names are Groundsel and Ragweed or Ragwort. The weed so well known in the garden as Groundsel is HOUSELEEK. Senecio vulgaris, the plant called Ragweed being S.Jacobaa. The Senecios in cultiva- tion, and these are by no means numerous, like a good loam. The annual species are, as a matter of course, propagated by seed ; perennials by the division of the roots. S. elegans is a species suitable for garden culture. It bears a purple flower, but some of its varieties have flowers white and deep red in colour. One variety of S. degans is known as "American Groundsel " ; the blossom is double and of a pretty purple colour. This is best suited for outdoor culture by amateurs. S. pulcher, with purple petals ranged round a yellow disc is an excellent peren- nial species for borders. SENECIO KLEGANS. SEQUENCE OF CROPS. 4*1 SEWAGE. Sequence of Crops. Where any of the Brassicae, or Deteriora- tors, were grown the previous season, follow them with Preparers, which are mostly root crops, as potatoes, carrots, parsnips, onions, scorzoneras, salsafy, &c. Follow these as far as possible by Surface Crops, which are mostly the shortest-lived of any, and include all saladings. Map out the garden, therefore, and give each crop its proper position and space, and note the time of its duration as a guide for selecting its successor ; this applies to kitchen gardens of any extent, but more particularly to those which are limited, because it economises the room. Crops, called Deepeners (see Crops, Disposition of), because they require depth and richness of soil, and occupy the same spot for a long time, comprise but a small portion, com- paratively, of the occupants 01 the kitchen garden, and cannot be used in the same proportion, although their office in respect of deepening the soil is important ; but where bush fruits are grown largely in the kitchen garden they may be added to the group, and managed in the same way — that is, plant a certain number every year and remove an equal number of old ones : by this a fresh piece of soil can be devoted to grosser-feeding crops which has long been innocent of them. The principal point of culture for the Deepeners is that the ground must be deeply worked, both at planting and taking up. For the Pre- parers the ground should be trenched two spades deep, chiefly bastard trenching, with plenty of manure of good sound quality, or mixed with maiden earth. For the Surface Crops, merely pointing or forking manure into the surface or top six inches of soil will suffice, after which, if again trenched two spits deep, adding no fresh manure, the ground will be in excel- lent condition for the most scourging of all crops, the Exhausters; namely, broccoli, Savoys, Brussels sprouts, cabbages, bore- cole, &c. By working on some such principle as this, the soil may be kept in a state of fertility for ages without fear of those vexations and disagreeable results which arise from want of method and forethought. It should be observed that to carry out this system of grouping and rotation there must be no edging of beds with parsley, chives, or other dwarf plants, for appear- ances ; no devoting particular corners per- petually to sweet herbs for convenience ; no edging the quarters with strawberries or "what-not"; but every plant must take its place and turn as part and parcel of the whole ; every variety and species must perform its part in preparing the ground for a successor. It may appear difficult, but it is practicable. Sew'age. It is unnecessary to say much here upon sewage, which is better suited for manur- ing farm lands than for dressing garden ground. House slops are valuable on account of the urine and alkaline salts that they contain, and are therefore useful for gardens. Night soil is undesirable for small gardens, although it is useful in market gardening on a large scale. The conservation and application of human excreta to garden ground is best effected by means of the earth closet, of which that which is constructed on Moule's patent appears to be the best. The manure obtained from this source is possessed of considerable fertilising properties, which are augmented by mixing a little pulverised charcoal with the earth. Indeed, it has been said that manure from earth closets would be all the more valuable if the earth were dispensed with altogether and char- coal used in its stead. Pumps connected with cesspits to draw up the fluid part of their contents are also useful in garden work. SHADE, PLANTS SUITABLE FOR. 462 SHADES FOR PLANTS. Shade, Plants suitable for. Among other points about which amateur gardeners are much exercised is the ques- tion as to what plants will do best in the shade. Now all flowers like a fair amount of light and freedom from shade ; but some do not object, like others, to a north or shady aspect and the absence of light and heat, without which the generality of plants would fare but badly. The follow- ing list of plants that will thrive in the shade is taken from Hooper's "Gardening Guide " :— Acanthus. Ajuga. Amaryllis lutea. Anemone Appenina. „ Japonica. „ nemorosa. Anthericum. Aquilegia. Arum. Colchicum. Corydalis. Cyclamen. Cypripedium. Dielytra. Digitalis. Dodecatheon. Epimedmm. Eranthis. Erythronium. Gaultheria. < Gentiana. Helleborus. Hemerocallis. Hepatica. Hesperis. Hoteia. Iris. Leueojum ! Lilium. ; Lily of the Valley, i Lysimachia. Mimulua moschatus. Myosotis sylvatieai Narcissus. CEnothera rosea. Pseonia. Polygonatum. Polygonum. Primula. Sanguinaria. Saxifraga. Scilla. Spirea. Trillium. Trollius. Vinca. Viola. There are only two flowers in the fore- going list which demand notice, namely, Ajuga and Cypripedium. Of these the first, Ajiiga pyramidalis, is a hardy perennial, well suited for rock-work, from 6 to 9 inches high, and with leaves more or less tinted with purple; the second includes Cypripedium calceolum, C. ma- cranthiun, and C. spectabile, all hardy terrestrial orchids, of beautiful appearance and easy of cultivation. Shades for Plants. Among these appliances, London des- cribes a plant umbrella, which is exactly like an ordinary umbrella in form, but, instead of the usual handle, has a pointed stick, shod with iron for insertion in the ground. " It is used," he says, "for shading tender plants from the sun or sheltering! them from the rain. For both purposes it is convenient to have a joint in the stem so as to incline the cover according to the situation of the sun and the direction of the rain." Amateurs should therefore take care of old frames and frames with broken handles, for they can easily be covered with green or white calico, or strong brown linen, to afford an agreeable medium for imparting shade without intercepting the light entirely, and the sticks can be jointed without much trouble to a stake or rod to be inserted in the ground, in the manner shown in Fig. I, in which A is the handle of the umbrella, rounded at the bottom, that it may be readily turned in any di- rection, and B is the stake to which it is attached by FIG. i.— JOINT a pin or screw. The stick IN STICK OF PLANT SHADE. and the rod are halved together," as it is technically called, as shown in the side view at c. If tnu.st be borne in mind that the upper part of the rod to which the stick of the umbrella is attached should be rounded.* If not rounded in the manner described, the lines of contact between stick nd rod at the joint should be slanting, ing, but care must be taken to make them parallel. When Miis plan is adopted, the umbrella shado can be moved in one direction only, whereas, when the ends are rounded, as shown in the illustration, the shade will turn freely in either direc- tion about the pin or rivet that holds stick and rod together. Small shades for the partial protection of tender plants are sometimes made of wire or wicker work, SHALLOTS. 463 SHEARS, GRAPE GATHERING. in the form of bowls, cylinders, and cones, to be placed over the plants. Bell-shaped covers of earthenware, pierced with holes, are sometimes used as shades, and earthern FIG. 2. — BROKEN FLOWER POT UTILISED AS SHADE. shelters in the form of a flower pot or nearly so, with a piece taken out of one side, so that the opening can be turned to the opposite quarter to that from which an inclement wind or the sun's rays are pro- ceeding. The nature of such a shelter may be gathered from Fig. 2, in which a flower pot with a large piece broken out of its side is utilised for this purpose. When a large pot is broken in this manner, it is better not to reduce it to fragments for crocking, but to reserve it for the pur- pose indicated in the illustration. An unbroken flower pot also makes an excel- lent shelter. Shallots. Prepare a bed of light, rich soil, with which a liberal dressing of wood ashes, if they can be obtained, and soot has been well incorporated. Rake the surface finely, and even consolidate the soil by beating it lightly with the spade. Then set out the bed in rows 9 inches apart, and place the bulbs at the same distance apart in the rows, pressing them firmly into the earth until they are nearly hidden by it. In mild situations, sheltered from the north and east, and in warm positions, the shallot, like the potato onion, may be planted at midwinter ; but it is usual to plant them at the commencement of autumn, or at the end of winter or begin- ning of spring. The subsequent manage- ment is similar to that prescribed for potato onions. See Onion, Potato. Shears for Grape Gathering. In gathering grapes the means of sever- ing the bunch from the stalk must be combined with the means of hold- ing it fast when severed : it is necessary, therefore, to have an . instrument which shall act as scissors and pincers at the same time. It is clear that if there is a projecting flange within the edge of the cutting blade, against which the other blade — which in itself is also of s.ome thickness — can be brought, the bunch to be severed will be gripped and held just below the part that is cut. This is effected by the instrument shown in the accom- panying illustration, which consists of a pair of scissors constructed on this principle. One arm is fixed on the end of a -long handle, and the other is movable. The blades are closed by means of a ring or collar, which is pushed up as far as the projection on the right of the illustration when it is sought to open the blades, which are pressed apart by the action of a spring when the collar is placed in this position. The instrument is then placed so that the stem of the bunch to be cut is enclosed between the arms or blades of the scissor-pincers, and the collar is pulled down. The pressure of the collar acting on the lower part of the movable arm SHEARS FOR GRAPE GATHERING. SHEARS FOR GRASS. 464 SHEARS FOR GRASS. closes the blades, and the bunch is cut and held by the pressure exerted by the machine on the extremity. Shears for Grass, Hedges, &c. These instruments are made on the principle of the scissors, but much larger and heavier, the blades being thick at the back and bevelled thence to the edge, which is perfectly straight from heel to point in most kinds, but curved coi\vexly and concavely in others, in order to give greater power in cutting. Various types of shears are shown in Fig. I, in which A represents the common garden shears, used for all ordinary purposes of clipping grass and hedges. In B a form is represented that FIG. 2.— SPRING HAND SHEARS. is used in trimming the edges of lawns, beds, verges, &c., being furnished with long handles, so that the necessity of stooping on the part of the operator is entirely obviated. At C a form is shown which is used for branch pruning : in this type, which is fur- nished, like B, with long handles, a heavy blade with a rounded pro- tuberant edge is brought against one that is hollowed out in the same degree. Garden shears are made in sizes of 7, 8, 9, and 10 inches, the length of the blade only being taken into account. The form shown at A is sold in these sizes, at 35., 33. 6d., 45., and 43. 6d., respec- tively, and notched shears at an advance of 6d. on these prices. Edging shears, as at B, are sold at 6s. ; and branch pruners, as at c, at 6s., 75., and 8s., according to size. Everybody who has witnessed t3ie opera- tion of sheep shearing knows how deftly and quickly the sheep shearers can divest a sheep of his fleece with the shears. The spring hand shears shown in Fig. 2 are somewhat similar to them, although the blades of the sheep shears are in the same plane with the handles, and not inclined to them at an angle, as in the accompany- ing illustration. They are grasped by the FIG. I. — TYPES OF SHEARS. i hand across and over the handles, and the blades are brought together by the pres- sure exerted on them. It requires con- siderable strength of wrist to use them for any length of time, but they are extremely handy for cutting grass on narrow verges, for trimming edges, and for cutting round shrubs and plants in places where the mower cannot reach. They are sold ac- cording to length of blade, namely 5^ SHELTERS FOR PLANTS. 465 SHELTERS FOR PLANTS. inches, is. 9cl. ; 6 inches, 2s. ; 6£ inches, 2s. 6d. ; and 7 inches, 2s. The amateur gardener will find an old pair of sheep shears almost as useful in a garden, and as they may be bought very cheap at the nothing better than a line of hurdles, whether of wood or iron it matters little, with brush wood, gorse, or even light faggot wood, interlaced vertically between the horizontal bars. This affords a rough but marine store dealer's sometimes, he should very effective shelter, and, if no hurdles FIG. I.— WATTLE HURDLE. never pass by an opportunity of picking ; are at command, it is easy enough to knock up a pair. They can be sharpened with a ; up a few frames of rough wood for the pur- rough whetstone. pose by nailing to three or more uprights, according to the length, transverse bars, at a distance apart ranging from 6 inches to 9 inches, or thereabouts. When the posi- means of protecting plants growing in the ' tion of the garden is such that shelters of Shelters for Growing Plants. Under this heading we may consider the FIG. 2 —FRAME FOR WATTLE. open ground temporarily from the adverse this kind may be frequently desirable, it is influence of frost and cutting winds from any as well to give a permanent character to particular quarter, and simple structures them by constructing wattle hurdles, which and appliances for the protection of cold may be put away under shelter in some frames, etc., and their inmates. For ob- out-of-the-way corner or spot fitted for the taining protection against winds there is purpose, and brought out for use as occasion 31 SHELTERS. 466 SHELTERS. may require. There is no difficulty in making a hurdle of this description, such as is shown in Fig. i. The first thing to be done is to obtain a piece of wood, about 3 or 4 inches broad and the same in thick- ness, and to draw a line down the centre of the uppermost side as a guide for boring holes in it, about 6 inches apart, which may be done with a brace and I inch bit, or a I inch auger. The holes at each end should be rather longer, say from I £ inch to i £ inch in diameter. This piece of wood, which may be of any length deemed most convenient for the purpose, and which is shown in Fig. 2, serves as a frame or foundation for the hurdle. The next step is to get some stakes to serve as uprights, those intended for the ends being of the diameter of the holes made to receive them, and the intermediate stakes only I inch in diameter, and to sharpen one end of each. They should be about 6 inches longer than the height to which it is proposed to carry the interlacing that forms the hurdle. The stakes being sharpened, must then be set in the frame, and the work of making, or rather completing, the hurdle entered on by interlacing rods of willow or hazel, or any suitable material bet ween vthe uprights. Such hurdles are most useful in breaking the force and mitigating the rigour of a cold and boisterous wind. Shelters for Peas, Potatoes, &c. It will be seen from that which has been already said on this subject, that hurdles, mats, &c., thus constructed, may be easily made available for the protection of early peas, potatoes, &c. For rows of peas, the hurdles may be placed against one another on each side of the rows, meeting at the top in this form, A, which is the form of the letter V inverted. Two and perhaps even three rows of potatoes may be covered in the same manner, or if the potatoes are growing in short rows in a south border, a rough frame may be knocked together and placed over them to carry the straw mats, which must be laid on the frame and tied to it to prevent any chance of removal by the wind. Shelters, Small Glass and Hand- glasses. These differ essentially from all kinds of glazed structures, from the small garden frame with a light over it, or the different kinds of plant protectors of this character that have been introduced of late years, and which must be described in another chapter. They are comparatively small in size, and are extremely portable and easily shifted from place to place. There are two types of these shelters or handglasses, differing from each other in their construc- tion ; one type consisting of entire glasses, mostly bell-shaped, or cylindrical, and the other of small frames, usually of lead or cast iron, in which flat pieces of glass are set. The old leaden handlight was used by every gardener when leaden casements were in vogue, but it is very seldom seen now, having been supplanted by the stronger handlight of cast iron, which is far less liable to injury from a chance blow and can be glazed again and again when the glass gets broken. Shifting Hard-wooded Plants. In shifting any hard-wooded plants or heaths from a 48- to a 16- or 12-sized pot, the soil should be used in a much rougher state than for ordinary potting. The draining must also be more liberal, say at least 4 inches deep, and besides the materials for drainage, pieces of broken potsherd or charcoal should be mixed freely with the soil in the process of filling up. The soil should be so dry as never to stick to the fingers, but by no means quite dry. It should also be well consolidated as the work goes on, and rammed in with a SHOVEL. 467 SHOVEL. small rammer or the bottom of a pot of about the same size, before the plant is inserted. If the soil is of the proper texture, and in a right condition in reference to moisture, it will be almost impossible to make it too firm in potting. The roots of hard-wooded plants seem unable to get hold of loose soil. Much that is far from being to the point and purpose has been written about stirring and patching the surface 01 soil. When plants are properly rooted this operation is alike unnecessary and impossible. To secure plenty of roots thorough drainage is the first desideratum, proper compost the second, firm potting the third, careful watering the fourth, and proper top management the very last point for con- sideration. Keep the new soil level with the top of the old ball. The collar should not be raised above the general level, but to depress it beneath is certain death to hard-wooded plants. All plants, however hardy, should be kept warm and moist for a few weeks after re-potting, especially if they have received, a large shift. The growth of the roots is thus promoted— a point of great importance at this stage. At first, before the roots have taken good hold on the earth, the plant is easily expelled by accident or disease ; but after it has filled every available space with its roots, it requires a violent wrench and the application of much force to remove it. Shovel. This implement differs from the spade in many important particulars. As a rule, the blade is broader, has no. tread, and the handle, which is long and slightly bent, is inserted into a socket proceeding from the top of the blade instead of being attached to the blade by means of straps. The shovel is not used for digging, but for clearing trenches, &c., or for lifting soil, gravel, manure, &c., that requires removal into a barrow or cart, though manure from the heap can be handled more readily by means of a fork. As the blade is pointed, as shown at A and B, or, at least, narrow at the edge, although straight, as shown at c in the accompany- ing illustration, which illustrates various forms of shovels, it can be thrust into masses of loose soil more easily than the stiffer blade of the spade, because it en- counters less resistance, and is thus more capable of penetration. Being broader than that of the spade the shovel blade will receive and lift a greater quantity of mould, &c., and as the handle is longer the person who is using it has not to stoop so much in thrusting the shovel into the mould, &c., and can maintain his position while throwing the material to be removed VARIOUS FORMS OF SHOVEL. into the cart. The length of the handle, in fact, gives better leverage in lifting, which is an essential in work of this kind. The handle should be made of ash, and should be perfectly smooth. Shovels that are used by navvies, miners, coalheavers, &c., are different in construc- tion to the garden shovel, and may always be distinguished from it by their handles, which are short, like that of the garden spade, and terminate, with one or two exceptions, in a crutched head. The blades of shovels used for railway work and pit work are mostly of the shape shown at A and B, but they are secured to the handles by straps and rivets, or the handles are let into long cylindrical sockets, and riveted. Shovels for handling ballast and coal have SHRUBBERIES. 468 SHRUBBERIES. handles of the same length attached in the same way, but the blades are very large, square in form, and have the edges turned up at the back and on both sides, like a fire shovel. They are described here that the purchaser of a shovel for garden use may not be induced to buy an article which, being intended for a different pur- pose, will be of little use to him. The blade of a garden shovel should be of one or other of the forms shown in the illustration, and should be furnished with a socket for the reception of the handle, which, as it has been said, should be long and slightly bent. Shrubberies, Renovation of. In old gardens, it is no unfamiliar thing to find the lawns and borders skirted by long, unbroken belts of shrubs, inter- mingled in pell-mell fashion, the lower part of most of the deciduous shrubs lean and naked, long since denuded of their smaller twigs. Confusion rather than order seems to have been encouraged. Stems bare and naked at the roots show only straggling wiry branches towards the summit. When a shrubbery has acquired all or any of these characteristics, renova- tion, in whole or part, has become indis- pensable. Shrubberies skirting winding paths, either as a screen to unsightly objects or as shade and shelter from sun and wind, are perhaps the most agreeable portions of a garden ; but in order to be so the shrubs must be cultivated with much care. Ever- greens should be selected for their close habit of growth, and this habit increased by high dressing, judicious pruning, and pegging down. This compact habit, how- ever, can only be maintained in beauty for a number of years by planting the shrubs so far apart that they may not touch each other, the ground between being kept clear by frequent raking and hoeing. Tb^e are some exceptions to this rule of planting. Rhododendrons do well planted in masse>, and where the shoots are pegged down they soon present a broad mass of green en the margin of the clump or shrubbery, when the turf can be carried up to their lowest branches. Behind these dense shrubby evergreens the taller thorns, Turkey oak, the sophoras, and other trees of moderate height, and of the fancy arbo- retum varieties, might be planted for shade and breadth of effect. Shrubberies on the verge of the lawn would naturally be planted with the best small flowering shrubs on the margin, either in masses or singly : if in masses, the shrubs should be pegged down, so as to present a continuous mass of vegetation along the whole margin, relieved as before with a background of ornamental trees ; leafy masses of rhododendrons, touching the margin of the turf, form an admirable connecting link between the grassy sward and the shrubs and dwarf trees behind them. Where the shrubbery is planted for individual effect, those of an enduring growth and elegant habit should be chiefly used. Where there is space for such dis- play, the lawn adjoining the shrubberies may be advantageously dotted with single evergreens and some of the more elegant flowering deciduous shrubs. An occasional hemlock-spruce, with its weeping plumes ; a holly whose lower boughs, still fresh, sweep the turf on which it is planted, 01 the graceful Cedrus Deodara, or Araucaria^ in order to break the outline. Hardy flowering plants may also be introduced with excellent effect until the lower branches of the shrubs have made suffi- cient growth to admit of the surface being turfed up to meet them. In planting or renovating lawn and shrubberies, due attention should be paid to their different seasonal effects. There are tew shrubs which herald in the spring ; SHRUBS, ARRANGEMENT OF. 469 SHRUBS, ARRANGEMENT OF. such as Chinionanthus fragrans and Cor- nus mascula. Mezereon, Ribes sangui- neum, Corchorus japonicus. In conjunc- tion with these, the strongly characterised Cryptomeria japonica, Abies canadensis, and some trees of the Sumach family, deciduous cypresses, purple beech, and weeping laburnums, might be planted with effect. There are so many noble trees which present rich gradations of tint in autumn, that it is almost needless to name them. The old Virginian creeper is more beautiful in its autumn costume than in its vernal hues. The scarlet and other American oaks, the wild cherry, Kblreu- teria paniculata^ and many others, have a splendid effect either by themselves or in the skirts of the shrubbery ; and, judiciously planted, well selected and arranged, possess great interest. It is the tendency of many of the herbaceous plants to become crowded, and to exhaust themselves. Phloxes, asters, monardas, delphiniums, and other free-growing plants, soon choke their delicate com- panions, leaving little room for the more graceful. The plants of coarser habit expel the more delicate flowers, and with it all idea of order and proportion, on which so much of the beauty of the garden depends. Supposing this state of things has gone on until entire renovation has become necessary ; that the border is exhausted by continually growing the same things for years, and a radical remedy is required, there is only one which is effectual. Re- move the plants to a place of safety, and after that exchange the soil to the depth of 2 feet before planting again. Shrubs, &c., Arrangement of. The mode of arrangement of shrubs, £c., is still more important than the mere opera- tion and distance of planting. Nothing can well be more unsatisfactory than the plan of planting at regular intervals on what may be called the dotting system. Perhaps a dozen varieties of shrubs are planted haphazard all over an acre or two of ground. The only principle kept in view is that, strong or weak, they shall be planted at intervals of the same distance. The result is a dreary monotonous maze of tiresome sameness. Whatever the form or extent of shrubbery, the first and leading principle in furnishing it is that it shall be planted in distinct groups, and in masses of shrubs or trees. Single plants, at such distances as to allow them fully to develop their characteristics, are desirable as speci- mens, and as a necessary and pleasing ac- companiment of the gurdenesque style ; but a shrubbery should be a mass of shrubs, not a congeries of single specimens, however perfect : far less must it be a confused patch of imperfect plants. Plant everything in groups. In a shrub- bery of serpentine form, let every separate sweep, as far as practicable, have its specific furnishing. Put variegated holly in that prominence, berberries in that recess ; green yew here, golden yew yonder ; Portugal laurel in this ; in the next bend, beyond them, common laurel, rhododendrons, arbutuses, junipers, kal- mias, azaleas, and heaths, all in their turn. Do the same with deciduous shrubs, which might generally be introduced be- hind the evergreens; lilacs here, deutzias there ; philadelphuses, spiraeas, ribes, and laburnums — all in groups. In a straight shrubbery plant a ribbon border of shrubs, thus : dwarf laburnums, tall standard lilacs, white syringas or deutzias, yews, variegated hollies, box, dwarf golden yews, rhododendrons ; and, next to the turf, ericas, or dwarf varieties of Juniperu* sabina, the common savin. This and many other arrangements would look well ; only keep the principle of grouping of SHRUBS, DECIDUOUS. 476 SKIRRET. massing the different sorts together. The same principle applies to trees. Shrubs, Deciduous. In addition to the deciduous trees under cultivation, the principal of which have been named above, there is a large SILENE PENDULA— SINGLE VARIETY. number of deciduous shrubs which should hot be neglected by any one who wishes to beautify and improve his plantations. Most of these shrubs blossom freely ; many are very handsome, and produce an excel- lent effect when blended with evergreens, of which mention will be made presently. There are different sorts of Berberis, or barberry, some evergreens and some de- ciduous, but bearing in every case a pretty yellow blossom ; Amygdahis communis iitnara, the bitter almond ; A. dulcis, the sweet almond ; Buddlea globosa, the globe- flowered buddlea, which is very ornamental, with its orange blossoms and lanceolate leaves ; the Daphne Mezerciuii^ the com- mon mezereum, and D. M. album, the white-flowered variety ; also three or four varieties of the elegant and free-flowering Deutzia. Nor must we omit the different sorts of Genista, or broom, the Robinia^ and the many kinds of Spir&a, than which it is hardly possible to find any genus more richly varied and more profuse in flowering. For filling up gaps in plantations and borders, there are many other small deci- duous shrubs that are useful) which need not be mentioned here. Shrubs, Distance between. See Transplanting {Distances at which iser\ r as in summer and autumn. There are I that ground to be planted with Uuli^ SPRING FLOWER GARDEN. 483 SPRING FLOWER GARDEN. should be well manured, dug deep, and well pulverised, and ought also to be thoroughly drained. This attention will be especially necessary for hyacinths, ane- mones, and ranunculuses, which delight in a rich deep soil, and are impatient of stag- nant moisture during the winter. " For assistance in making a selection, it will be useful to name the classes of bulbs which we have found by jxperience to be the most suitable for spring decora- tion, and indicate how we think they can be arranged in planting, so as to secure the best possible effect. "Beginning with the snowdrop, which is the first to make its appearance, is uni- versally admired, and very cheap, let us say that it should be largely used, both for edging beds filled with other things, and for planting in clumps and masses ; but as it blooms too early to flower at the same time as tulips, hyacinths, &c., it should not be planted with a view to its forming any combination with these ; and the same warning must be given respecting the pretty little winter aconite. The crocus also blooms too early to allow of its being successfully used in combination with tulips, &c. But there are so many varieties of this flower in different colours, that a very effective garden might be produced with it alone. It is also very cheap, and should be largely planted as edgings to beds, in clumps about shrubbery borders, or in any desired arrangement in the beds. The lovely scillas bloom shortly after the crocus, but as they last many weeks, they may. if desirable, be planted in any arrangement with the later-blooming bulbs ; but these are so beautiful that we recom- mend that they should be planted where there will be no necessity to disturb them until their leaves decay, the dog's-tooth violet is also a beautiful little plant, with prettily-speckled leaves, blooms early, and may be used as an edging, but, like the scillas, is well deserving to be grown in a bed by itself. "The most effective display will be ob- tained from hyacinths, the various sections of tulips, ranunculuses, and anemones. The hyacinth and tulip bloom before the ranunculus and anemone ; but by planting the latter early in November, and the former towards the end of the month or early in December, they may generally be had in flower at the same time. Both the hyacinth and tulip furnish so many colours that a varied and effective display may be produced from each ; and the same is nearly true of ranunculuses and anemones. We have known persons plant flower gardens with the various spring-flowering bulbs, and arrange them according to height and colour, but with a total disre- gard of the time of flowering, and then expect the bed of blue crocuses to be in bloom at the same time as the one of scarlet anemones. It is to be hoped, how- ever, that the remarks made here on this subject will prevent any reader from making a similar mistake. "All should plant bulbs without stint, nay, to plant them profusely for a spring display in the open garden; and if the recommendation made here as to treatment is only acted on, it will surely follow that they will be amply recompensed. The most suitable arrangement, perhaps, for spring-flowering bulbs in the borders is the ribbon planting ; the taller growers, as Crown Imperials and fritillaria, being placed in the back, then tulips, &c. But if the error of expecting all to bloom to- gether is avoided, the display will be satis- factory whatever arrangement of planting may be adopted. " In addition to bulbs, the reader must remember that there are many plants and shrubs which flower so early that they con- tribute to the floral decoration of spring. Among them may be mentioned the yellow STAKES AND SUPPORTS. 484 STAKES AND SUPPORTS. alyssum, the purple arabis, and the early sorts of hardy rhododendron." These with other kinds will make the garden look bright and gay in early spring. Stakes and Supports, Attach- ment of Plants to. As regards the :eans of attaching plants w sticks and supports of all kinds, if it be MODES OF TYING TREE TO STAKE. a tree to a stake, or the stem of a hard- wooded plant, such as the honeysuckle, Sec., that may be tied without danger of injuring the bark, tarred cord may be used. Of course, climbing plants may be tied loosely so as not to cut into the bark or stem in any way ; but when a tree is tied to a supporting stake, it must be bound to it tightly. To prevent injury to the bark, something soft must intervene between the string and the tree and the stake. There is nothing better for this purpose than a piece of old Victoria felt carpeting, a strip of which may be wrapped three or four times round the stem, as shown at A in the accompanying illustration, or folded to form a wad, and placed on the side of the tree opposite to that on which it is touched by the stake, as at B ; but if the latter mode be adopted, it is desirable to place another thickness or two of the felt between the tree and the stake, to prevent them from being in absolute contact. The tarred cord may then be lied as tightly as it is possible to tie it. For tying plants and blooms of plants to sticks, &c., bast was formerly used, obtained from Russian mat- ting made of the inner bark of the lime or linden tree. It was necessary to soak this to render it tough enough for the purpose for when dry it is extremely brittle. Of late years it has been superseded by raffia, a material obtained from the leaves of a palm. This is sold by all nurserymen and seedsmen, at about 6d. per pound. It is very light, and the long strands are plaited together in lengths of about three feet, or a little more. The plait should be undone and tied at the thick end, to render the strands ready for use. The fibre is extremely tough, and can be used just as it is without soaking, which is a great- con- venience. Stakes and Supports for Plants. These are numerous and various, com* posing as they do flower stakes and sticks, poles, sticks for peas and beans, stakes for espalier-trained trees, trellises of all kinds, with wire cordons stretched along the ground, or on stakes, or in advance of the surfaces of walls, with the holdfasts and straining apparatus necessary for keeping them in position and drawing them out to a necessary state of tension. Of these, some may be made both of wood and iron, by putting iron rods into thicker wooden feet, but most are made either of wood or iron alone. Stakes and Supports, Iron Flower. These have been introduced of late years as being more desirable and lighter in ap- pearance than wooden stakes ; but as they are considerably less in diameter than wooden sticks and stakes that would be used for the same plants, they are not pos- sessed of so much holding power, as it may be termed, in the soil. For example, an iron rod ^ inch in diameter, though STAKES AND SUPPORTS. 485 STAKES AND SUPPORTS. stronger and more lasting than a wooden stake of double its diameter, or even more, will not present so much resistance to the wind and weight of the plant that is tied to it as the latter, owing to the small amount of surface to press against the soil, and it Would soon become loosened by the sway- ing to and fro of the plant in a tolerably high wind. In order to counteract and overcome this manifest inconvenience, iron flower stakes of this description, which, by the way, are only used for the larger kinds of plants, are furnished with a tripod-like foot, as shown at A in the accompanying illustration. By this contrivance a sufficient FEET FOR IRON FLOWER STAKES. degree of stability is attained, and the slake itself may be brought close to the plant without any chance of injuring it in its main roots by the bottom of the stake when driven into the ground. The amateur who is desirous of utilising iron rods or even iron wire not less than T\ inch gauge for flower sticks may gain stability for them by fitting the lower end into such a wooden foot as is shown at B, which, from the extent of its surface, will afford enough resistance to the surrounding soil, and be sufficiently resisted by it to prevent any undue loosening, however high may be the wind that blows against the plant that is tied to it. Stakes and Supports, Natural. These are to be obtained in the country fiom the cuttings of hedges, the lopping of trees, and the thinning of the undergrowth in woods and coppices ; but dwellers in towns of any size nlust seek them from the Woodyard, whither they ate brought from the country at certain seasons of the year and stored by the owner of the yard, partly for these purposes and partly for the pur- pose of making wooden hoops for casks. For the support of pea vines, or for sticking small patches and rows of sweet peas, the flat spreading boughs of the birch are the best when they can be obtained, or the larger and almost as flat bows of the beech, hazel, £c. The flatter the boughs, or in other words, the more the branchlets of the boughs extend from the main stems in the form of a fan when spread out, and in the same plane, the better and the more useful they are, because the sides of the rows of sticks, when thrust into the ground, will be more regular in appearance, and can be more trimly arranged. For scarlet beans or scarlet runners, large sticks of this description are extremely handy, when they are allowed to climb as high as they will, but for beans the more usual course is to stick them on each side with a row of slender poles, about I inch or a little more in diameter at the bottom, tapering to about % inch at the top, and about 6 fe<* in height, or a little more. The pea sticks are supplied at about 9d. to is. per bundle, and the long bean sticks at is. 6d. per bundle. The latter may, when fairly straight and cut in two, be utilised as flower sticks. All pea sticks, bean poles, and other poles used for the support of trees and plants, should be sharpened at the bottom before being used, and dipped in tar or a preparation of coal dust, mixed to the consistency of cream and applied like paint, to preserve the ends from the effects of damp absorbed from the soil. These slight poles, when split, are usefuj for the ornamentation of summer houses, vases, window boxes, &c. , in rustic mosaic, STAKES AND SUPPORTS. 486 STOCKS— MATHIOLA. portions sawn to the requisite lengths being disposed over the surface in regular arrangement, so as to form patterns of different kinds. The poles can be further Utilised as supports for patches of Convol- v'ulus major £ti& other climbers of a kindred nature, ^o'r supporting young trees when newly planted, stakes nearly as thick as the wrist at the bottom, and about 7 feet long, are required. The thick end of these, when sharpened, should be thrust into the grourid, into a hole made with a crowbar for the purpose, in a slanting direction, so that the Upper part may be brought close to the young standard that it is desired to stake, the object being to prevent the roots of the tree being too much shaken by the action of the wind on the head of the tree : the steadier a yoUrtg and newly planted tree is kept, the more readily will it take hold of the soil by its rdbts. These thicker rloles are sold at frohi Is. to 2s. per dozen, according to size. See also Espalier Stakes. Stakes and Supports, Patent Improved. An ingenious and useful appliance for sustaining plants and blooms has been WIRE SUPPORTS FOR PLANTS. introduced by Messrs. Williams Brothers, Pershore Street and River Street, Birming- ham, in Williams' Patent Improved Flower and Plant Supports, which do away with the necessity of securing the plant to the stick by bast or raffia. They can be quickly adjusted or removed, and are made of the best tinned wire. As rttay be seen frorti the accompanying illustration, the support consists of two parts — firstly, a wire with bent head that is stuck in the earth or pot, and secondly, a wire with two loops in it through which the ground stake is passed before it is thrust into the ground, and a coil at the top into which the stem of a plant or the flower stalk is introduced. The prices per gross of these supports, which are done up ih 3-dozen bundles, are — 9-inch, 95. ; 1 2-inch, I2s. 6d. ; 1 5-inch, ids. ; i8-inch, IDS. 6d. ; 21 -inch, us. 6d. ; 24-irtch, I2s. Standard Form for Fruit- Trees. This form is best adapted for orchards and for fruit-trees in isolated positions, hedges, &c., in which fruit-trees ought to be found far more frequently than they are, and doubtless would be if the eighth commandment were more generally re- spected, and the law of trespass more rigidly enforced. The standard form of growth, which is the most natural form, is too well known to need further explana- tion, and the process of pruning necessary to control and induce this growth in its best form has been explained in Pruning, Process of, which see. Stocks— Mathi'ola (nat. ord. cmcif - era). The plants known as Stocks are mostly half-hardy biennials, but some are annuals. They are propagated by seed, and all thrive best in a rich and not too dry soil. The Stock Gilliflower is one of the most popular and important of our garden favourites ; its delicious fragrance, brilliant and diversified colours, profusion and dur?.- STOCKS— MATHIOLA. 487 STOCKS— MATHIOLA. tion of its bloom, make it invaluable for flower beds and borders, for edgings, ribbons, and pot-culture. The Ten-week Stock (Mathiola annud) is the most universally cultivated. It is so called because it usually blooms ten or DOUBLE TEN WEEK STOCK. twelve weeks after being sown, grows from 6 to 15 inches high, and when cultivated in rich soil and occasionally watered with very weak guano-water, throws out an immense quantity of lateral spikes of bloom, so that a plant forms a perfect bouquet : it would indeed be very difficult to surpass the grand effect produced by these exquisite floral gems. The Imperial or Emperor, sometimes called Perpetual Stocks, are half-hardy biennials, hybrids of the Brompton, grow- ing 18 inches high, and of a robust branch- ing habit. Sown in March or April, they make splendid "autumn-flowering stocks, ' and form a valuable succession to the sum- mer-blooming varieties. Should the winter prove mild, they will continue flowering to Christmas. Sown in June or July, they flower the following June, and continue blooming through the summer and autumn months. The Brompton and Giant Cape are gene- rally called winter stocks, on account of their not flowering the first year : the former is robust and branching, the latter possesses the characteristic so much esteemed by some, viz., an immense pyramidal spike of bloom. These are half-hardy biennials. The seed should be sown early in May in a light sandy border with an eastern aspect. It succeeds best sown thinly in drills about 6 inches apart. As soon as the plants show their second leaves they should be watered every evening with a fine rose pot. When alxnit three inches high they should be thinned out to at least 6 inches apart and the other plants removed to another bed. In about a month's time they should be thinned again and the alternate rows taken up, so as to leave the remaining plants about a foot apart every way. These may be suffered to flower where they stand, or they may be transplanted to the flower- borders in August or September. Great BROMPTON STOCK. care is necessary in transplanting not to expose the roots, and the new soil should be of the richest description possible. The plants will require shading till they are established, and watering with liquid manure till they begin to flower. Thus treated the flowers will be splendid. STOCKS. 488 STRAWBERRY. The Intermediate Stock is extensively cultivated for Covent-garden market ; it is dwarf and branching, and in the early sum- mer months constitutes the principal feature in furnishing jardinets, &c., for " the Lon- don season." It is also of great value in filling flower-beds for an early summer dis- play. Half-hardy biennials. Stocks, To Select Double Flowering. Reject from the seed-bed all those plants which have a long tap-root (these will almost invariably prove single), and reserve for bedding only those which have the largest quantity of delicate fibres at the roots : experience shows that these, in general, prove double. Stole or Stolon. In some plants Nature has resorted to propagation by means of a loose trailing branch or stem, called a stole or stolon, from the Latin stolo, a twig or shoot spring- ing from the stock of a tree, which is sent forth from the plant at the summit of the root, just where the leaves spring from the stem. This branch or stem proceeds from the original plant to some distance, and then takes root downwards and sends forth leaves upwards, frequently continuing its growth beyond the first attachment to the soil, and rooting at intervals, forming a new plant at each rooting. Plants that propagate themselves in this manner are called stoloniferous. The strawberry affords a familiar example which is known fo every one, and another is found in the Trailing Saxifrage, Saxifraga sarmentosa> sometimes called " Mother of Thousands," C He of the prettiest basket plants that can 'be found, with its green foliage, nearly round in shape and flecked with white, 'its pyramidal spikes of white flowers, and its deep red stoles, which hang on all sides over the basket, from 18 inches to 24 inches in length, breaking out at intervals into miniature reproductions of the mother plant. Stonecrop. See Sedum. Straggling Plants. To preserve a neat appearance in the flower borders, all perennials that have a tendency to run about or stray — and there are many of which this is the habit, as, for example, Calystegia pubescens — should have their roots confined under the surface with tiles. Old chimney and seakale pots are very good for the purpose. By this means they may be kept within due bounds, but, of necessity, will require every few years to be transplanted into fresh soil. Strawberry (Fragaria). The strawberry requires a deep, porous and highly enriched and well-drained soil. The best natural soil would be what is called a hazel loam — retentive, but not too adhesive — and trenched at least 3 feet deep, and the bottom of each spit enriched with 3 or 4 inches of well -rotted stable manure. This being trenched in in the winter or spring, the land should be kept moved and stirred about as much as possible until the plants are ready for planting. The proper time to make new strawberry beds is the month of August ; but if space of ground cannot then be had, or the time spared, it is an excellent plan to take the runners at that time and set them only a few inches apart in peat soil, on a north border, where they will soon make good root and become strong plants. In the early spring they should be taken up separate, with a ball of earth, by means of a trowel, and planted a proper distance from each other in the bed intended for them. In the market gardens this planting takes place in June, the market gardeners STRAWBERRY. 489 STRAWBERRY. generally choosing an old celery bed ; trenching it deeply, planting immediately, and watering copiously until the plants are established. Where this is not available the system is to prepare a piece of ground by trenching and manuring as above, and marking it into 4-feet beds, with 15-inch alleys between. In autumn or early spring a row of strong plants are planted in the alleys and the beds between cropped with summer lettuce. As the strawberries advance in growth the young plants from the runners are carefully layered among the lettuce, and soon become strong, vigor- 'S1R JOSEPH PAXTON — GOOD TYPE OF STRAWBERRY. ous plants, producing heavy crops of very large fruit. In small gardens strawberry banks or terraces are an excellent device ; they are formed as follows : — A space of ground of any given length, and 6 feet wide, being marked out, a wall 9 inches high is formed of stones, flints, or old wood, the space between the walls being filled with com- post, such as has been described. Upon this compost, and 9 inches within the first walls, two more are added and filled up in the same way ; and thus the work pro- ceeds, a row of plants occupying the space between each pair of walls, until the space comes to a single row of plants at the top. In a bank of this kind the walls, if running due east and west, insure both a very early and very late supply of fruit, and it may be planted at any time, taking care, at plant- ing, that the ground slopes inward slightly, so as to secure a full supply of moisture at the roots. Stones, clinkers from the fur- nace, or other arrangements for preventing evaporation, and providing a clean surface for the fruit to rest upon, are easily applied to this mode of cultivation ; while copious waterings with manure water from the time the plant shows blossoms until the fruit is ripe, will greatly assist this or any other system of cultivation. To grow strawberries in perfection, it is necessary to keep the roots moist while they are swelling, either by mulching, which prevents evaporation, or by watering, when it is necessary to give a liberal supply. Where expense is no object, tiles may be obtained cut so as to join round the roots of the plant and fit together ; but their light colour and greater porosity increase evaporation and slates are preferred, and where they are not obtainable straw or coarse hay (not lawn grass) will retain the heat and moisture and keep the fruit free from grit. This is a fruit requiring very careful packing when sent to a distance. When hampers are to be sent the fruit should be packed in smaller baskets with lids, 5 or 6 inches square, which will pack conveniently in the larger hamper. Having placed some young strawberry leaves in the bottom and round the edges of the basket, fill up the remaining space with fruit and leaves alternately— not in layers, but intermixed with the fruit, and cover the top with leaves, over which place the lid. The fruit selected for packing should never be over-ripe, and all bruised berries should be thrown out. STRAWBERRY PLANTS. 490 SUMMER-HOUSES AND SEATS. The following are good varieties of early and late strawberries : — EARLY. i. Vicomtesse Heri- cart de Thury. Laxton's Noble. King of Earlies. John Ruskin. 5. Competitor. Keen's Seedling. Sir Joseph Pax- ton. 8. Dr. Hogg. i). James Veitch. TO. President. ii. British Queen. ii?. Gross Sucree. i^. Royal Hautbois. LATE. 14. Sir Charles Napier. 15. Elton Pine. 16. Eleanor. 17. Frogmore Late Pine. 18. Enchantress. 19. Roden's Scarlet Pine. 20. Unser Fritz. 21. Wonderful. 22. Aberdeen. 23. Lord Suffield. 24. Newton Seedling. 25. Latest of all. Strawberry Plants in Pots: Stacking in House. The stack can be built on any dry bot- tom, the best possible position being, how- ever, the south side of a wall or fence. In such a position mark out a place a yard wide or so, and of any convenient length, according to the quantity of plants, and spread upon it a layer of ashes 3 inches thick. Place a row of pots on their sides at the distance indicated from the fence, or nearer, in proportion to the number of plants or height of stack contemplated. Fill up all between the pots, and the space between the bottom of the pots, with dry ashes or old tan, keeping the side next the wall a little the highest. Then place another layer of plants on the top of the first, about 2 inches further back than the other. Fill up as before, and repeat the filling up, and layers of pots, until this space is occupied, top of the wall or fence reached, or all the plants provided for. The whole will then present a sloping surface to the sun. A boarded roof, 6 inches wider than the bottom rows, should then project over the top and slightly incline to the back ; the front may be supported on stakes driven in at intervals of 6 feet. Always excepting the floor of a cool house, there is no better mode of protecting and treating plants than this. They are kept dry, the rost has little or no influence upon them, :or if it is very severe a thatched hurdle may be laid against them, and both pots and plants are preserved in safety. Strawberry Supporters. The contrivance shown in the accom- panying illustration for keeping straw oerries from contact with the ground when ripening, is one that will be found useful in all gardens when strawberries are largely grown and highly prized. It is very simple, consisting only of a ring of galvanised wire supported on three stakes STRAWBERRY SUH'OKTER. of the same material, which are thrust into the ground. They are manufactured and sold by Messrs. Reynolds and Co., wire- work manufacturers, 57, New Compton Street, London, W.C., at is. per dozen, or us. per gross. Improved strawberry and seedling supports are also supplied at mode- rate prices by Messrs. Williams Brothers and Co., Pershore Street and River Street, Birmingham. Succulents. For management of Succulents, see under their several headings— cabbage, lettuce, celery, rhubarb, &c. Summer-houses and Seats. Seats should be provided in every gar- den, and the state of our atmosphere renders it almost imperative that they should be protected from the weather. Hence the origin of rustic and archi- SUMMER-HOUSES AND SEATS. 4^1 SUMMER-HOUSES AND SEATS. tectural summer-houses, Doric arid other temples, &c. , which are not only orna- mental, but highly convenient. A perspec- FJG. I. — PERSPECTIVE VIEW OF SUMMER-HOUSE. five view and plan of a rustic summer-house is given in Figs. I and 2, but to enter here on a description of the manner and method in which such structures may be erected would tend to extend this chapter to too great a length, and therefore no more can be done here than to indicate the purpose and nature of such garden buildings, and to show how desirable it is that they should be found in gardens of all kinds, from the cottager's " bit o' ground" to the extensive domains of the wealthy country gentleman, in which they may be found in number and variety. According to Dodsley's description of the Leasowes, there were about three dozen of seats placed in the best possible positions, besides the rustic and architectural build- ings already noticed ; and the majority of them were furnished with appropriate in- scriptions. Doubtless this is a legitimate means of deepening the impression arising from the contemplation of beautiful scenery, of inculcating moral lessons, or of setting forth the charms of retirement and rural life. There is a great want of Sitting accommodation in most bf our best gar- dens, and yet nothing can be easier to pro- vide. Many cjf the seats of the Leasowes consist of a single slab fixed at the root df one, or upon the stump's of two trees. Unless in very wild scenery, such seats are scarcely admissible ; but stone, wood, and cast iron are available everywhere ; and^ in many positions, rustic wbo'den chairs are the most appropriate and useml. Summer-houses and seats, as we have already observed, are very desirable, and add much to the comfort, as well as the ornament, of pleasure grounds and gar- dens. Almost any clever carpenter can put up a rustic arbour — at any rate, with the assistance bf a few hints. Arbours, how- ever, as well ds seats, can be bdught ready made. Very neat buildings may be formed with young oak stands, ornamented with pieces of oak billet and thatched with reed ; also of Scotch fir poles split or sawn in two lengthways, showing the bark on the outside. Such summer-houses as these FIG. 2. -PLAN OF SUMMER-HOUSE SHOWN IN FIG. I. may be boarded inside and lined with mat- ting, or made more ornamental by a panel- ling of split hazel worked into different patterns. The flooring can be of brick or stone. More substantial houses can be SWEET HERBS. 492 SYRINGA. built wholly of flint or stone, and fitted up accordingly. Of garden seats the variety is infinite. In the wilder portions of the plantations and shrubberies the more simple and rustic these seats are the better. The stump of a tree or the stem placed lengthways may be fitted up for the purpose. Seats shaped like large mushrooms placed here and there under trees are not only very comfortable, but they have the great advantage, from their peculiar shape, of always being dry. Of late years cast-iron garden furniture has been introduced, and very good imitations of oak chairs and tables are made in this material ; but preference should be given to wood. The price, however, of this cast- iron furniture is so moderate that many persons may be inclined to adopt it, especially as it is so durable that, unless broken by a sudden brow or fall, it will last for ever. For gardens and pleasure grounds near the house, what is called the Leicester garden seat is well adapted. It is a combination of wood and wrought iron, and forms by no means an uncomfort- able seat. It is light, and being fitted with bolts and nuts, it can readily be taken to pieces and put away during the winter. The garden seats and chairs made by Bar- nard and Bishop, of the Norwich Iron Works, are excellent, not only as regards make, but also for design. These chairs have frameworks of wrought iron, and seats of a chain or network of galvanised wire. They are very elastic, and almost as comfortable and soft as a stuffed cushion. They are made of various shapes and sizes, and the single chairs can be folded up, and are so light that a child can carry them. Sweet Herbs. Set Herb Garden. Sweetwilliam (not. ore use* SYRINGE. 494 SYRINGE. Syringe, Cooper's Patent "Pro- tector." Of the various syringes that have hither- to been introduced for garden and green- house use, Cooper's Patent "Protector" Syringe, manufactured by Messrs. Nettle- fold and Sons, Birmingham, and 54, High Holborn, London, W.C., and sold by all ironmongers, appears to be the most desir- able, partly on account of the numerous spray jets arid fittings that may be had with certain sizes of it, and partly because by reason of the peculiarity of its construc- tion all back water or drip is prevented from running down the hand, arm, or sleeve of those who use it. A representa- tion of this syringe is given in Fig. I, and a sectional view, showing the interior of the tube and handle and the piston, is exhibited in Fig. 2. It is made in six varieties, distinguished by size or the fittings that accompany them. The best of them, perhaps, is No. I, on account of the duplex spray jets or nozzles, five in number, supplied with it, which divide and dis- tribute the water as it issues from the syringe in showers of different densities. By means of these jets moisture may be thrown in all parts of a greenhouse and on ferns and orchids in fine dew-like showers, closely resembling a very fine and .almost impalpable mist. The jets that are not in use are stored away in the handle, which has a screw top, and is made hollow in order to form a receptacle for them. This ensures them safe keeping at all times ~£>^-% *^x««S& Then comes the Tulip race, where Beauty plavs Her idle freaks ; from family diffused ' To family, as flies the father dust. The varied colours rise ; and while they break On the charmed eye. th' exulting florist marks With secret pride the wonders of his hand " THOMSON. ACSO'NIA (not. ord. Passiflor'ese). A grand genus of the Passiflora family, yielding to no twining shrub in cultivation for the dazzling brilliancy, size, and beauty of its flowers, which are produced in great profusion for months in succession. To those who have experienced difficulty in blooming the varieties of this magnificent genus the following information will be useful and acceptable. To flower the Tac- sonia successfully, it should be frequently stopped as the flowers are produced upon the lateral shoots ; it should be grown in rich soil, and frequently syringed during warm weather to induce a vigorous growth ; thus treated it will cover a large space in an incredibly short period, and bloom most profusely. For culture, &c., see Passion -flower. Tagetes. See Marigold. Tam'arisk (not. ord. Tamarisci'nese). A pretty shrub, with small narrow foliage, which flourishes near the seaside, and being very hardy and accommodating as to the quality of the soil in which it is grown, it is valuable for seaside places and for shrubberies. It is propagated by means of cuttings struck in spring in light soil under a handglass. The tamarisk usually met with in outdoor positions is T'amarix Gallica, the French or Common Tamarisk. There are, however, other varieties that are 495 TANKS. 496 TECOMA. grown as ornamental shrubs in and for greenhouses. Tanks. In gardens where fountains are not attainable tanks are not only useful, but may be made exceedingly ornamental, either in flower or kitchen gardens. The position in the latter should be in the centre of a broad grass walk lined with pear-trees and standard roses. It should be made with an asphalte composition, and surrounded by rock-work covered with sedums and the different kinds of saxi- frage. In the flower garden its position must be determined by circumstances. It forms a useful and beautiful centre to a hardy fernery, and, if near enough to the house, may frequently, at a very small expense, be provided with a fountain by means of a small gutta-percha tube in connection with the cistern, which is supplied with the force pump of the house. This tube should be so managed as to be remov- able in winter, for fear of frost. The position of the tank in the kitchen garden should be in the centre of the broad grass walk. A simple tank of this kind may be made by digging out the soil in a circle 4 feet deep, and puddling it all round with tempered clay, that is, clay thoroughly washed and kneaded, until divested of all silicious soil, and nothing but pure clay remains ; this well rammed round the whole excavation for 9 or 10 inches, is impervious to water. Large stones, or boulders of handsome shape, placed with apparent irregularity, but real symmetry, all round, will form a handsome and use- ful basin ; and if some of the more deli- cate water-plants, as Arums and Water Lilies or Nymphaa^ are planted in large pots in the bottom of the tank, a- very good effect will be produced, and a variety of blooms obtained in late spring or summer. Tansy (nat. ord. Compos'itse). A perennial herb often found in the present day in old-fashioned gardens, possessed of a pretty feather-shaped leaf, emitting a strong odour and a small yellow blossom. The Common Tansy of the garden is Tanacetum vulgare. It is still used for garnishing dishes, but in olden time was utilised for culinary purposes, being an ingredient in Tansy pudding, to which it gives its name. Tarragon, This perennial requires a light, rich, and dry soil, and should be grown in a warm COMMON TANSY. and sheltered position. Propagate by division of roots in March or April, or by cuttings taken in July or August, and struck under a handlight. Cut down at approach of winter, and protect the roots by putting earth and litter above them. Te'coma (not. ord. Bignonia'cese). Magnificent ornamental greenhouse evergreen twining shrubs, with large and beautiful flowers. They require the same cultural treatment, and are propagated in the same manner, as the bignonia, which see. Possibly the best -known species in this LILIUM. P TEMPERATURE. 497 THE PICK. country are, Tecoma Capensis, with light ! well known to need any lengthened scarlet flowers ; T. stans. with yellow flowers ; and T. jasminoides, having white flowers with beautiful crimson throat, a charming plant for ornamental purposes in the greenhouse. Temperature, Sudden Change under the influence of description here. It is sufficient to say that the ordinary form consists of a wooden frame, in which is inserted a tube of very small bore, terminating at the bottom in a bulb, and hermetically sealed at the top. All bodies expand A- _. ~y • o of. heat, and contract FAH CEN All plants are liable to injury from this under that of cold : r i cause — camellias, perhaps, more than any solids, liquids,- and 130 -J other. Sudden transitions from an open, gases, the first slightly, — 50 free, to a close, confined atmosphere — the second more than 120-1 rapid alternations of temperature, and the first, and the third FEVER. 1 110 -i ^_HEAT_ either extremes of wet or dry at root or more than the second. i-40 top — are the main, if not the only causes Liquids, therefore, 100 -j of flower buds drooping in this beautiful having a mean expan- BLOOD 1 '. HEAT species. But the causes that influence sion between solids, 90-1 3 E-30 this plant so powerfully and suddenly which do not expand 60 *•? affect all others in a greater or less enough for the pur- : degree. . Hence the importance of adopt- pose, and gases, 70 4 ^-20 ing, in all changes with plants, the which expand too _ f\n - j/zV/w^-scale system. The change from a much, are employed •"•-•OU ~3 •] 1EMP£ a 1 ; RATE low to a high, or a high to a low tem- for the medium show- 50 J 1 HO perature — from a dry to a moist, or a moist ing expansion and con- to a dry atmosphere — must be gradual and traction in thermo- 40 -1 ~- easy. In one word, the length of the meters ; and of all Jim.! 5jrt 3 II L02"«C scale must be adapted to the extent of the liquids, mercury or 1 I ^ change contemplated ; and the smaller the quicksilver is com- 20-1 1 — angle of inclination, and the slower the monly used, because J Ho plants progress from one elevation to its expansion is more 10 "11 * another, the better the chance of perfect uniform, and the dist- " success. ance between its freez- '^•k ing and boiling points Mm Tent Beds on Lawns. greater than in other ^9 These are very ornamental; they may liquids, though in ^••^^yf be formed in a variety of ways, which some kinds, and espe- good taste wiH suggest. The usual shape • 11 lr . GRADUATION OF daily m self-register- ORD!NARY is round or oval, having a pole in the ing thermometers, THERMOMETER. centre and chains or ropes directed to the spirits of wine is made use of. The sides, to be covered with creepers — ever- mercury having been introduced into the green or annual, or both, on alternate bulb, the freezing and boiling points are as- certained, and the distance between these points is divided into 180° on Fahrenheit's Thermometer. scale and I00o on the Centigrade scale. The principle of the thermometer is too j Freezing point is marked at 32° on Fahreiv 33 THERMOMETER FOR HOTBEDS. 498 THORN AND CHIEF VARIETIES. heit's scale and at o° in the Centigrade scale, and consequently in the former, boiling point is at 212°. The comparative graduation of the thermometer according to the two scales named is shown in the accompanying illustration, which does not go up to the boiling point, but which exhibits a range sufficient for all ordinary purposes. Common thermometers, suffi- ciently accurate for all practical purposes in garden work, may be bought at is., 2s., and 35. each, but self-registering thermo- meters, which show the extreme points to which the mercury has fallen by night or risen by day, which are useful in hothouses, cost far more. The price of these may be ascertained from any makers of instruments of this description, who should be told the purpose for which it is required, and con- sulted as to which it is best to purchase for the object in view. Thermometer for Hotbeds. In ascertaining the temperature of hot- beds, &c., it is as well to place the thermometer in a metal case with one of its sides made of glass, and to make an excavation, in the bed, and lay the box and the thermometer within it in the excavation, when a few minutes will serve to show the temperature of the bed. This is a better plan than that of simply laying the thermometer on the surface of the bed or than plunging the instrument itself into the bed. Instruments are made for ascertaining the temperature of the ground, which are called geo-thermo- meten, or ground thermometers. Of these, Begazzi's Bark Bed Thermometer is com- monly used for determining the temperature of hotbeds, vinery borders, &c. It consists of a thermometer about 2 feet long, en- closed in a copper tube, in the top of which is placed a wooden cylinder on which is marked the scale, and viewed by a small door, to the inside of which another small thermometer is fixed, so that the temperature of the air above the bed may be shown at the same time. Such an instrument, however, is by no means absolutely necessary, as the tem- perature can be determined as nearly as possible, for practical purposes, by adopt- ing and following the plan described above. Thinning Out. A term applied to the act and work of removing shoots and branches of fruit-trees that are either unnecessary or in the way, and which, if left, would, with those that remain, be too numerous for the tree to support, and at the same time yield fine fruit. It is also applied to the removal of seedling plants sown in rows or drills, or even broadcast, as turnips frequently are, the removal of intermediate plants, leaving others at certain distances from each other, giving room to those that remain to grow to their proper size. Thorn and Chief Varieties. The genus Crat&gus, the thorn or ha\\ thorn, is a large one, for which care and cultivation have done much. Flowering and fruit-bearing, various in colour and in growth, the whole family is worthy of a place wherever there is room for planting. So hardy are they, that the most severe frost will never injure them, and so easy of culture, that they do not refuse to grow in almost any soil, and under a smoky atmosphere. Amongst the best and most useful varieties may be named Cratcegus apiifolia, the parsley-leaved thorn ; C. Maroccana, or Maura, the Morocco thorn ; C pendula^ the weeping hawthorn ; and C. rubra, the red-fruited hawthorn. Of the varieties of the common hawthorn, C. oxycantha,) C. 0. punicea, a scar let -flowered thorn, and C. o. plena and C. o. puniceo flore-pleno* white and scarlet doybje- THRIPS. 499 TOOLS. flowered thorns, are deserving of special mention. Thrips. A small insect that infests and injures the flowers, leaves, and shoots of plants, causing them to appear spotted and warped and twisted out of place. The best reme- dies against thrips are the plentiful appli- cation of tobacco water or strong soap water, or any of the insecticides that are sold for the purpose of destroying insect life. Thu'ja (not. ord. Conif'erse). A splendid genus of hardy ornamental shrubs ; the beautiful colour of their foliage, combined with their symmetrical growth, renders them desirable objects for lawns or eye, and T. alata alba, white, with rich brown eye. They like a rich mould plentifully mixed with well-rotted manure, and are raised from seed and cutting subjected to gentle bottom heat. Thyme. This can be increased by dividing the roots and planting out the pieces in a bed about 4 inches apart, or it may be raised from seed sown in light, rich soil in April. It may also be propagated by rooted branches, which may be pegged into the earth after the manner of layers, and thus induced to root. April is the month in which old plants should be divided, and rooted branches removed from the parent plant. Lemon Thyme is a variety which should shrubberies ; they succeed in any garden soil. Thuja aurea variegata is an espe- cial favourite. Of the Thuja, or Arbor Vitse, genus, the varieties are mostly of middle size, varying in colour from a bright yellowish-green to golden. They are very valuable in small gardens, for contrast with shrubs of both a lighter j be cultivated in every garden on account of and darker tint. They will grow in any | its delicious flavour, common soil. A. PICK PROPER. B. PICK FOR GARDEN USE. Thunber'gia (not. ord. Acantha'ceae). A genus of slender and rapid-growing climbers, with extremely pretty and much- admired flowers, which are freely pro- duced, either when grown in the green- house or in a warm situation out of doors : they delight in rich loamy soil. Most of the varieties are half-hardy annuals, but Thunbergia coccinea may be named as a greenhouse perennial, and blooms in clusters or racemes of orange- Tools for Loosening Soil— Pick. This tool is a bent, or compound lever, when regarded as a mechanical power, as may be seen when it is employed in lifting a paving stone, for example. The paving stone then is the weight to be raised, and is at one end of the short arm of the lever, which is formed of that part of the head which lies between the extreme point and the socket in which the handle is set. The handle itself forms the other arm of the lever, the ground on red flowers. Among the annuals may be which the head rests is the fulcrum, and named T. alata, orange, with rich brown the power is the pressure applied at the TOOLS. 500 TOOLS. upper end of the handle by the man who is using it. The blade, or head, should be made of the best wrought iron, tipped •jr pointed with steel. Both ends are alike in this tool, and both are pointed, as shown at A in the accompanying illustration. The handle should be made of sound, well-seasoned ash. The head is slipped over the upper end of the handle, and forced into its place at the other end, by letting the end fall in a succession of blows on a block of wood, or stone, or even hard and solid ground. It is released by going through the same process with the other end of the handle. The handle should be from 2 feet 8 inches to 3 feet in length, according to the height of the person who will mostly use it. A form of pick better adapted for garden use is shown at B, one end being pointed as in the ordinary pick, and the other broad and in the form of a wedge-shaped blade. This end is used for cutting through roots as well as for digging. The chief use of the pick in gardens is to loosen hard soil, pick up -old paths, and to do any work of this nature for which a strong and heavy tool is required. Tools for Loosening Soil and Cutting Tools— Pickaxe and Mattock. These are tools which are closely allied to the pick, being modifications of it in form. The pickaxe is shown at A. It will be noticed that one arm is in the form of an axe, and the other in the form of an adze, as in the left-hand 'side of the garden pick shown above. Some- times this form of pick has one of its arms in the form of an axe, instead of taking the adze form ; but whatever its shape may be, whether adze-like or axe- like, it is used for the same purpose, namely, for loosening hard soil and for cutting roots. The pickaxe, as at A, with one arm like an axe and the other like an adze, is used more especially for taking up the roots of trees that have been felled, or for uprooting trees. An- other form of pickaxe, known as a mat- tock, is shown at B. It has a broad adze-like blade on one side of the socket only.* Its shape, when viewed from the top, is shown at c. It is used for loosening surfaces and masses of earth that are not so hard as to necessitate the use of the pick. It is also used for taking up trees, shrubs, £c., from which A. PICKAXE. B. MATTOCK. C. VIEW OF MATTOCK FROM TOP, SHOWING SHAPE OF IRON. it is sometimes called a grubbing-axe, and for earthing up potatoes, from which it is frequently called a hoe-axe, as it combines the functions of the two tools, namely, that of the axe in loosening the soil between the rows, and that of the hoe in drawing the earth up to and around the haulm of the potato in the form of a small bank or mound. The mattock is sometimes called a grubbing- axe, or grubbing-hoe. It is sold by weight, and varies from 3 lb., the smaller size, to 5^ lb., the largest size, there being a difference of \ lb. in all the intermediate sizes. Hoes, on the contrary, as will be seen, are estimated by the TOMATO. SOT TOMATO. length of the edge of the blade in inches, and rakes by the number of teeth that they contain. Picks and pickaxes" are supplied in three sizes, known as small, medium, and large ; the prices respectively being COMMON TYHME. about 35., 35. 6d., and 45. These prices include handles. Tools Essential for Garden Use. The following will be found to em- body Loudon's remarks, setting forth the tools and instruments which he con- siders as chiefly essential for garden work. Of garden tools, he considers the essential kinds, the spade, the dung fork, and the rake, because with these all the operations for which other tools, such as the hoe, &c., are employed, may be per- formed, though with much less facility, expedition, and perfection. To these, however, must be added the digging fork, which is indispensable. Of instruments of operation, the most necessary are the knife, saw, shears, scythe, and hammer. Of instruments of direction and designa- tion, the garden line, measuring rod, j level, and label, of whatever kind it may | be, are the most requisite. Of utensils, j the most necessary are the sieve, flower pot, watering-pot, and handglass. Of machines for garden labour, the essentials Tool House. The tool house may be attached to the gardener's cottage or placed at the back of the hothouses, if such a situation be found more convenient. In every well- planned tool house there should be con- trivances of different sorts for hanging up the tools — rakes, hoes, spades, &c. — which should all be well cleaned before they are put away. If many men are employed in the garden, each one should have a proper place for his own tools. Watering-pots, I syringes, garden engines, should have their movable parts separated, and be reversed, | in order that they may drain and dry. j The mowing machine should be kept | thoroughly clean and oiled, and so should ' all clippers and pruning instruments. A are the wheelbarrow, roller, syringe, and bench with a vice attached to it will be hand forcing pump ; and of traps and found very useful in a tool house ; a : vermin engines, the mole trap, the mouse grindstone and hones for the sharpening ! trap, the fumigating bellows, and gun. of different tools are also necessary. Of course, amateur gardeners will preicf GOOD TYPE OF YELLOW TOMATO. TOOL HOUSE. 502 TOOLS FOR GARDEN USE. the mowing machine to the scythe, but when the purpose and use of each tool enumerated above is carefully considered, it will be conceded that in the above list are reckoned all that the average gardener absolutely requires, and that none are mentioned which he can do without or which are unnecessary to him. For a description of the different kinds of tools required tor garden work, see under the name of each tool. Of tools it may be generally observed that they require the use ot both hands and arms, and some of them the whole muscular force of the frame. They gene- rally combine the principle of the lever and the wedge, the blade of all ot them being employed to separate particles of matter by the application of lever power which lies in the shaft or handle. When the handle is intended to be grasped and held firmly at one spot, as in the spade, it is fitted with a transverse bar for that purpose ; but when it is necessary that the hand should slide along it, the handle should be quite smooth and round. Such is the form of the handles of the rake, the pick, and all similar tools. Ash is the best material for all handles in which strength is required, but willow is lighter than ash and strong enough for tools such as the rake, the hoe, and others for which it is desirable that the handle should be of some length. Suitable handles for rakes, hoes, &c., may also be made of pitch pine, deal, &c., nicely and neatly rounded with the plane. All tools should be kept in a shed or tool house, in which they will be protected from the weather when not in use. Tomato. An admirable vegetable by itself — it enters largely into a great number of our best and most wholesome sauces. It may be cooked and brought on to table like other vegetables in several different ways ; or eaten raw, cut in slices like cucum ber, but much thicker, and dressed with salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar, in the same way. When prepared in this man- ner as a salad, a few slices of onion will be found an improvement. Further, it is extremely palatable when eaten as a fruit, dipped in sugar. Those who have analysed its properties say that the tomato is singularly wholesome, and very useful, especially in cases of bad digestion ; how- ever, it is not appreciated or cultivated as it ought to be. There is, undoubtedly, some little difficulty in our climate in fruiting and ripening tomatoes to perfection : GOOD TYPE OF RED TOMATO. but the following directions, if attended to, will generally be found to succeed. Culture ', &c. — Sow the seeds in pots in very rich light mould in March or April, and place them in a cucumber frame, or other gentle heat. When the second leaf appears, re-pot the plants either singly or at most two or three together, keeping them near the glass and well watered. In May remove them to a cold frame for the purpose of hard- ening them before they are planted out, which should be done as soon as the fear of spring frosts is over, and the earlier the better. The best situation lor TRADESCANTIA. 503 TRAINERS AND TRELLISES. tomato plants is against a south wall fully exposed to the sun. The plants should be well watered with liquid manure to keep up a rapid growth. As soon as the blossom-buds appear, watering TOMATO, SHOWING HABIT OF PLANT. should cease. Stop the shoots by nipping off the tops, and throw out all those sprays that show little signs of fruit, exposing the young fruit as much as possible to the sun and air, only watering to prevent a check in case of very severe drought, of which the state of the plant will be the best index. Ripening Fruit. — In a very dull, wet, cold autumn, even with the greatest care, the fruit will sometimes not ripen as it ought ; but in this case it may frequently be made fit for use by cutting off the branches on which full-grown fruit is found, and hanging them in a warm dry greenhouse or elsewhere to soften and ripen : a cool oven may be used advan- tageously to affect this. For varieties, of which there are a great number, the reack r is referred to the catalogues of the seedsmen. Tradescantia (not. ord. Commeli- na'cese). A genus of pretty perennial plants, some of which are hardy and suitable for planting out of doors, while others require the shelter and warmth of a greenhouse. They are mostly trailing plants suitable for hanging baskets and pots, and are easily propagated by cuttings or division of the root, the greenhouse species requiring to be placed in light soil in gentle heat, and the hardy species in any good garden ground. The leaves are sometimes striped. Tradescantia Virgi- nica, otherwise known as Common Spider Wort, and its varieties, may be named as fitting representatives of the hardy species, and T. zebrina, otherwise known as Zebrina pendula, of a species with striped leaves. Trainers and Trellises for Plants. These are to be purchased for a few pence, when in wood and of a small size for pot plants ; but when they assume the form of balloon trainers, made of wire, and consisting of this material disposed round four hooped standards, or rather a pair of standards bent in a hoop-like shape, whose ends afford the means of fixing the appli- ance in the earth, they are more costly. Trainers of this form range from 15 inches to 36 inches in height, and from 2s. 6d. to' TRADESCANTIA VIKGINICA. 7s. each, according to size. Being globular in form, they present a surface on and over which a climbing plant, such as l^ropceolum Canariense or Maurandya Banlayana, may be trained so as to exhibit its leaves and flowers to the best advantage. The TRAINERS AND TRELLISES. 504 TRAINING ON FAN SYSTEM. balloon trainers are shown in Fig. 2 ; they are useful both for greenhouse decoration and for use in the open ground. The small trellises used in pot culture for sus- taining such plants as the Ivy gera- nium, and even the I. — COMPOSITE TRAINER. tree carnation, are flat in form, as hown in Fig. I, which is given as a general type of the whole. This consists of three standards of wood, one upright in the centre and two in- clined to it, one on either side, in the inclination generally given to the sides of a flower pot. These standards should be about f inch in width and f inch thick for ordinary use. Holes are then bored through the standards, through which wires about £ inch in diameter, or even a little slighter, as & inch, are inserted in the manner shown in the illustration. The standards in such a com- posite structure as this present the narrower sides to the front and back. Useful sup- ports may be made in this manner from 18 to 36 inches in height for indoor or outdoor use. For smaller supports the two slanting j standards only need be used, and these may be placed so as to present the broader sides in front and to the rear, and connected by j slips of wood laid across them, and secured j in place by small brads. A pretty form of j flat trellis or trainer, made entirely of wire, | may be made by bending a long piece of thick wire in an oblong rectangular form, or even in a trapezoidal form, the top a*nd bottom limbs being parallel and the sides inclined inward, and then attaching straight pieces of thin wire to this main support, crossing them after the mam* r of ordinary i wooden trellis. A structure of this kind is all the stronger if the wires are interlaced. If this is not done it is necessary to fasten them at the points of crossing with thin binding wire. Training Flowers. When training is required, it should be done neatly and tastefully, using thin and pointed sticks, and very fine fibres of mat- ting or soft twine ; avoid anything like stiffness or formality, which is the opposite extreme to the graceful habit of plants. Training Fruit-Trees. Various modes of training fruit-trees are in use among gardeners, but for these the reader is referred to the particular names given to each form, namely, Cordon System, Ean System, Pyramidal Form, Standard Form, &c. Training on Fan System for Peaches, &c. Enough has been said in the directions given elsewhere for the pruning and training of pears and apples to guide the gardener in work of this kind when carried out on other kinds of fruit- trees, but it will be necessary to make a few brief remarks on the treatment re- quired by trees that bear stone fruit and not pip fruit, as apple-trees and pear- trees do. Peaches and nectarines, to be brought to perfection in this country in the open air, require walls with a south- ern aspect, or south with a slight turn east or west. The trees that bear them are obtained by budding on a plum stock, that FIG. 2.— BALLOON TRAINER. TRAINING ON FAN SYSTEM. 505 TRAINING ON FAN SYSTEM. of the muscle plum being the most suitable for the purpose. They may be trained in the fan or inclined cordon form, but the main branches must be disposed in such a manner and at such a distance apart as to leave room for lateral shoots to be laid in on each side of the main branch, because it is on the new or young wood that the fruit is produced, and not on permanent fruit spurs as in the pear and apple. Thus, although the branches of a trained pear or apple need not be more than 12 inches apart, the branches of a peach or nectarine must be from 20 to 24 inches apart in order to give room for laying in the lateral PEACH-TREE TRAINED ON FAN SYSTEM. fruit-bearing shoots that proceed from the main or wood branch. For the reason, although pears in the oblique cordon form may be planted 16 inches assumes in the fifth year of its training and the sixth year of its growth after planting, for peaches and nectarines should not be pruned during the first year of their growth. At the end of the first year the tree should be cut back to about 18 inches, or even less, from the ground, in such a way as to leave three buds on the stem— two on opposite sides of the stem, about 12 inches above the ground level, and one in front : from the side buds the branches A, A, are obtained, while the front bud affords the continuation of the stem. The second year the new shoots that spring from the three buds must be cut back about a third of their length, and at the third pruning the main stem "is again cut back in order to allow the lowest branches, A, A, to gain in size and strength and to develop lateral shoots. It is not till the fourth year that the branches B, B, are allowed to grow. In the fifth year the upper branches, C, C, are developed from buds left below the point at which the stem has been last cut, and at the of the summer the growth of the is as shown in the illustration end same tree herewith. In the meantime, the side branches and the lateral fruit-bearing apart, so that their branches when inclined are about 12 inches apart, yet the trees in a row of oblique cordon peaches must be planted from 24 to 30 inches apart in order that there may be an interval of from 20 to 24 inches between them when inclined. That there may be no misconception of that which has just been said, the accom- panying illustration will give a rough idea of the training of the peach and nectarine in fan form, the tree being represented in the form that it shoots have been cut back year after year in order to secure the proper extension of both. In the peach and nectarine the fruit branches— they can scarcely be termed spurs — are new every year ; that is to say, the branches which have borne blossom and fruit one year, and will bear no more, must be replaced the next year by fresh branches from new buds at the base of the shoot. All that has been said above with refer- ence to the peach and nectarine applies TRANSPLANTING. 506 TRANSPLANTING. equally well to the apricot, which is also budded on a plum stock. It requires a warm and sheltered situation, and in this country must be grown against a wall whose aspect may be towards any point of the compass between south and east or south and west. Transplanting. Aspect. — In transplanting any tree or shrub, especially evergreens, be careful to preserve the same aspect ; that is, keep the same sides to the north, south, east, and west, as before. This will greatly facilitate the speedy establishment of the plant in its new situation. Best Time. — Transplanting is an im- portant operation, and in a general way November is the best month for it, but the work may be done in December with equal safety, and even in January, although it is better to have it done before December has passed away. The removal of small trees and shrubs is a comparatively easy matter and simple in itself : it is in the case of large trees and shrubs that the work becomes more difficult and labori- ous. Large Trees and Shrubs. — To gain time, it is frequently desirable to trans- plant large trees and shrubs. The effect of ten or twenty years' growth is gained on any given spot at once. This is of im- mense importance in the lifetime of a man, and the practice of transplanting large trees is therefore popular and highly to be commended ; neither is there much risk of failure, with proper caution and skill, and it is not so expensive as many imagine. Even very large trees and shrubs may be safely moved with no other machinery rhan a few strong planks nailed on a low truck or sledge. Mode. — In this mode of transplanting a trench is dug round the plant at a distance from the bole of two-thirds the diameter of the top, and to a depth of 2 to 5 feet, according to the age and size of the tree, character of the soil, depth of roots, &c., leaving a space of from 2 to 3 feet at the back of the tree untouched. At the same time, the front, or part where the tree is intended to come out, should be approached at an easy angle of inclination, extending from two to three feet beyond the circumference of the trench already begun. The earth is rapidly removed from the trench ; the roots carefully preserved as you proceed. The size of the ball in the centre must be determined by the nature of the soil and size of the plant. Its size is of less consequence than the preservation of the roots. Placing on Truck. — As the removal of the earth proceeds, a fork must be used to separate the roots from the soil, and they should be carefully bent back and covered over until the work is finished. After excavating from I to 3 feet beyond the line of the bole of the tree or shrub, according to its size, introduce into the vacant space a sledge or low truck ; cut through the solid part at the back line, and the tree will rest on the machine. This should be furnished with four rings at the corners, through which ropes or cords should be fastened and firmly fixed to the bole of the tree. Of course, some soft substance, such as hay or moss, will be introduced between the bole and the cords, to prevent them chafing the bark. The tree is then ready for removal ; the neces- sary horse or manual power can be applied : the plant will slide gently up the inclined plane, and may be conveyed any distance desired with facility. Some- times it may be impossible to fix the cord through the back rings until the tree is out of the hole. In that, and indeed in any case, cords had better be attached to the top, and carefully held by men, lest a too strong vibration of the top should TRANSPLANTING. 507 TREES, DECIDUOUS. upset the machine, or topple the tree j over. New Place for Tree.— If the tree be large, the hole in which it is to be depo- sited should be made in such a manner as to have an inclined plane on each side to enable the horses to walk through. When the sledge arrives at the centre of the hole, the horses must be stopped. If the tree is not too heavy, the truck or sledge is prised up by manual strength, and the plant gradually slid off. If very heavy, a strong chain is passed under the ball, attached to a couple of strong crow- bars ; the horses are applied to the other end of the truck, and the tree drops off into its place. Replanting. — The roots are carefully undone, and spread throughout the whole mass of soil as the process of filling up goes on ; three strong posts are driven in to form a triangle, and rails securely fixed to them across the ball to keep it immovable ; the top reduced in proportion to the mutilation the roots may have suffered ; the whole thoroughly drenched and puddled in with water, and covered over with 4 inches of litter to ward off cold and drought, and the operation is complete. If this operation is well per- formed, the loss will not average more than from five to eight per cent. The principle involved in all planting is the same, and only of secondary importance to securing as many healthy roots as possible. The stability or immovability of both root and top comes next ; for, if not attended to, every breeze that blows is analogous to a fresh removal. No sooner do the roots grasp hold of the soil than they are forcibly wrenched out of it again, and the plant lives, if at all, as by a miracle. Replanting of Young Trees, &c. — The planting of young trees and small shrubs is so simple as scarcely to require instruc- tions. Always make the hole considerably larger than the space required by the roots, whether few or many, so that they may find soft recently removed soil to grow in ; and yet the soil must not be left too loose. If so moist as not to need watering, which will moisten and also consolidate the soil, it may be gently trodden down under the roots. Distance at "which to Plant Trees. — In reference to the proper distance at which shrubs should be planted, much depends upon the object in view. A safe rule, how- ever, is to plant thick, and thin quickly : from three to four feet is a good average for small shrubs and trees. In three years, two out of three plants should be removed ; and in planting it is well to introduce rapid- growing common things amongst choice plants, to nurse them up ; only the nursing must not continue too long. Transplanting is a remedy recommended for over-luxuriant growth ; it is, however, only applicable to young or dwarf trees. It is performed in autumn ; the roots being trimmed and shortened, and the tree care- fully replanted in a suitably prepared sta- tion. The check is usually followed by an ample abundance of fruit buds in the follow- ing year. Trees, Deciduous. Nature, as it has already been observed, kindly and frequently easily accommodates herself to the wants and wishes, and especially to the industry of man. Our woods, and shrubberies, and gardens, may now be adorned with the vegetable pro- ductions of all climates and countries. The Eastern and the Western World, especially Brazil, California, Japan, New Zealand, and Australia, have added many beauties to our scenery which were un- known to our forefathers. The oak, the ash, the elm, the lime, the beech, and the maple, in all parts of the country, testily by their size either to indigenous growth, TREES RAISED FROM SEED. 508 TREES RAISED FROM SEED. or to the length of time during which they have been known among us. But then, even these, until comparatively recent periods, were in no great varieties ; or, if there were varieties, there was so little specific difference that they were generally regarded as being all of one kind. But the planter, now, who takes up the catalogues of any of our large growers of ornamental forest trees and shrubs, will find that he has a vast variety to select from, and many of them eminently beauti- ful, while he need not go beyond the old, common, and familiar names. This will be apparent from the lists of forest trees, given under the headings, Oak and Chief Varieties, Ash, Elm, Lime, Beech, Maple, Horse Chestnut, Spanish Chestnut, Poplar, Thorn, and Pyrus (which see), in which the different varieties are grouped together under the general name of the particular family to which each belongs. Trees to be Raised from Seed. The following list of trees, &c., whose seeds may be procured, will be found to be useful. The letters attached to the names bear the following significance : — D., best shrubs for growing under the drip of trees or in shade; E., evergreens; F., foliage trees, to be planted for effect ; G., best for game coverts or underwood ; H., specially adapted for hop poles, crates, &c. ; S., best for growing near sea-coast ; T. , best for growing near towns or in smoky districts. Alder, Common, H. „ Cut-leaved, F. ,, Fern-leaved, F. Arbor Vitae, American, E.F. Araucaria imbricata, (Monkey Puzzle), E.F. Ash, Common, H.S. „ Mountain, H.S.T. Aspen (Populus tremula), H. Beech, Common, S.T. „ Purple, F.S.T. Birch, Common, H.T. „ Silver, or Weeping, F. Black Thorn, or Sloe, G. Box Tree, D.E.G.S. Butter Nut (Juglans cinerca). Cedar of Lebanon, E. ,, Indian (Cedrus deodara), E. „ Red (Juniperus Virginiana), E. „ White, E. Chestnut, Horse, F.T. „ ,, Scarlet-flowered, F. „ Sweet or Spanish (Castanea vesca), F.H. Cypress, Lawson's, E.F. ,, Golden, Lawson's, E.F. „ Scented (Cupressusfragrans), E.F. Elm, English, H.T. ,, Wych, or Scotch, H.S.T. Eucalyptus globosus (Blue Gum), E.F. „ marginata, E.F. Fir, Austria, E.S.T. „ Balm of Gilead, E.F. „ Douglas, E.F. „ Scotch (Pinus sylvestris), E.T. „ Silver, E.S. Hawthorn, Thorn, or Quick, G.T. Hazel, G.H. Hickory (Gary a alba). Holly, Green, D.E.H.S. Variegated, E.F. H.S. Hornbeam, G. Laburnum, T. Larch (Pinus larix). Laurel, Common, D.E.G. „ Portugal, D.E.G. Lime, Common, Large and Small-leaved, H.T. Lilac, Blue and White, T. Locust Tree (Robinia pseudoacacid). Maple, Common or English (Acer campestre), H.S. „ Norway (A. platanoides), H.S. ,, Sugar (A, sacchariutn). „ Swamp (A. rubrum), F. Myrtle, E. Negundo, or Box Elder, Variegated (Negundo Acer variegatutri), F.T. Oak, English, H. „ Scarlet, F. Pinaster (Pinus pinaster), E.S. Pine, Corsican, E.S. „ Mountain or Dwarf (Pinus fiumilio), E.G. ,, Nordmann's, E.F. Pinus insignis, E.F.S. Plane, Eastern, T. ,, Western, T. Poplar, White, H.S.T. „ Italian, H. Black, H. Privet, Evergreen, D.E.G.S.T. ,, Oval-leaved, D.E.S.T. Rhododendron Ponticum, D.E.G.T. H hybridum, D.E.T. Spruce, Norway, K. „ Black American (Pinus fjgra\ E. „ White American (Pinus alba), E. Sycamore, Common (Acer pseudo-platanus), F. ,, Purple-leaved (A. p.-purpureuni), F. Tulip Tree, (Liriodendron tulipifera), F.T. Walnut, Common (Juglans regia), F.T. ,, Black (Juglans nigra), F. Wellingtonia gigantea, E.F. Willow, Green, or Osier (Salix vintinalie), H.S.T. ,, White-leaved, S.T. „ Purple-leaved, S.T. Yew, English, D.K.F.G. ,, Irish, E.F. The foregoing list contains most, if not TREES AND SHRUBS. 509 TREES, TRAINING. all, of the trees and shrubs of which seed may be procured without difficulty. Trees and Shrubs, Culture of. There is comparatively little to be said respecting the culture of trees and shrubs of all kinds, as it is extremely simple in itself, and confined to raising the plant in situ from seed, or transplanting it from the nursery in which it has been grown, and then affording it such protection from animals, and security against injury from high winds and storms, until it is so firmly rooted in the soil, in the first place, or has attained to a sufficient size, in the second place, to render these precautions un- necessary. After this, nothing more is requisite, in the case of trees, than judicious system of growing and training trees on supports is applicable to the apple in open ground, and to pears, peaches, nectarines, apricots, plums, and cherries on walls or wires. When a tree is said to be trained on the cordon system, it means that its growth is restricted to the stem only and the fruit spurs which issue from it, or to two branches, which leave the stem at a short distance above the ground, and are trained in directly opposite directions or in parallel lines. The cordon assumes three directions — the horizontal, the vertical or upright cordon, and the oblique cordon, which is mostly grown at an inclination of 45° to the ground level. When a wall is covered with cordon trees, the trees are planted about 18 inches apart, and the FIG. I. — LOW CORDON FOR EDGING OF BORDER IN WINTER. lopping and thinning of branches, and the , removal of dead wood when needful. For shrubs, a closer supervision is necessary, combined with pruning and trimming in the winter season, with the clearance of weeds, and the periodical cleansing of the soil in which they are growing, when the ! shrubs are found in borders and on breadths | of ground, which are too large to be re- garded as borders, but which are not covered with a carpeting of turf. Trees and Shrubs, Small, How to Plant. See Transplanting (Re- planting of Young Trees, <5rY. ). Trees, Training, on Cordon System. Cordon System for Fruit-trees. — This stems are trained in parallel lines. By a judicious system of pruning, based on the mode already described under " Pruning," the growth of lateral branches is prevented, and the formation of fruit spurs promoted. The utility of this mode of training rests on the fact that the wall is more quickly covered by the growth of many trees than by that of one, and that the fruit-produc- ing power of a tree is concentrated and focussed as it were far more effectually in a small tree than in a large one. Cordon System, Horizontal ', for Apples. — It has been said that the apple is the only kind of fruit-tree that is grown as a cordon in the open, and that the form most generally adopted is that of the hori- zontal cordon, in which it is used as an edging for borders, being grown about 12 TREES, TRAINING. TREES, TRAINING. inches from the artificial edging of the border or piece of ground. Strawberries, however, may line the edge, and the apples be put a little further back. Posts must be set in the ground at either end of the line that the cordon is to take, and intermediate posts set between them at the distance of about 12 feet apart from post to post. Gal- vanised iron wire is then strained from end post to end post, as shown in Fig. I, which shows the appearance of the tree in winter, and supported by or fastened to the inter- mediate posts. Small trees grafted on Paradise stocks, and planted about 4 or 5 feet apart from end to end are recom- mended. At the first planting about one- third of the stem is cut away, and the tree and are trained in opposite directions, as shown in Fig. 2, which exhibits the ap- pearance of the cordon apple-tree in summer. Cordon System, Vertical, for Pears. — The oblique cordon is considered the best form for the pear, and indeed for all kinds of trees that are trained on this system on walls and wires, but sometimes the vertical form with two branches is adopted, as shown in the accompanying illustration, which is sufficient to show the manner in which the training and pruning is effected. Cordon System, Oblique. — In order to render the method of growing pears, and indeed all other fruit-trees on the oblique cordon system, as complete and as intelli- FIG. 2. — LOW CORDON FOR EDGING OF BORDER IN SUMMER. is left in a vertical position. The following winter the stem is bent and fastened to the wire, which should be about eighteen inches above the level of the ground. In the second year, all vertical shoots are removed, and horizontal and lateral shoots pinched and pruned in order to convert them into fruit spurs ; the leader or ter- minal shoot is allowed to grow about 18 or 20 inches beyond the stem of its next neighbour, and at a fitting season, namely, March, the leader of one tree is connected with the stem of the next tree a little beyond the bend by inarching. Thus, a connected row of little trees is obtained, in which uniformity of growth is obtained and maintained by an equal distribution of the sap throughout every tree. Sometimes two shoots are allowed to spring from the stem gible as possible, the following is taken from the instructions given on the pruning and training of the pear by Du Breuil. " Choose," says M. bu Breuil, "healthy and vigorous young trees of one year's grafting, carrying only one stem. Plant them 1 6 inches apart, and incline them one over the other at an angle of 60°. Cut off about a third of the length just above a front fruit bud. During the following summer favour as much as possible the development of the terminal shoot : all j the others must be transformed into fruit branches, by the same means as described for pyramidal trees. " The second pruning has for its object to transform the lateral shoots into fruit spurs ; the new extension of the stem must be cut back a third. If the terminal exten- TREES, TRAINING. TREES, TRAINING. sion has grown but slightly and shows signs of weakness, the cut must be made lower ~n. ~Jl \ _—• n^ 1 1 jjj zo_ ^ — * -L-1- , 5 ^ J~ •*H 7^- ^ 5 M- - rr- i ( 1 JJ — > , x 7 14 o I The above prices may vary slightly with different makers ; but as far as calculating the cost of covering any given area goes, they will be found to be sufficiently approximate. Trenching. Next in importance to drainage and burning is the introduction into the soil of atmospheric air, which is a combination of oxygen and hydrogen — one of the objects of drainage being to admit oxygen, with the other constituents of atmospheric air, into the soil. We are now brought on to a consideration of digging as the third and best known, because most frequently prac- tised, of the three great mechanical means by which natural soils are prepared and brought into cultivation. The admission of atmospheric air, which is promoted in the first place by draining, is facilitated by the deep trenching which usually follows the thorough drainage of a garden ground. The immediate object of trenching is to deepen the soil, and prepare the subsoil to nourish the fibres of deep-rooting plants. The operation is commenced by throwing out the top spit to a convenient breadth for the workman, and wheeling it to the farther end of the bed or quarter ; the second spit is treated in the same manner if the trenching is to be three spades deep. This done, the bottom of the trench is dug up as roughly as possible, so that it is left level. The top spit of a second portion of the ground is now removed and placed alongside the first, and the second spit of this portion is dug up and placed roughly i L :__ . * 1* -> TOP SPIT TO H. SECOND SPIT TO K TOP SPIT TO L SECOND SPIT FROM A. TOP SPIT FROM A. TOP SPIT FROM B . FIG. I. — PLAN OF GROUND MARKED FOR TRENCHING. over the first trench. The first spit of a third portion is now removed and placed in as large masses as possible over the first trench : the bottom of the second trench is now dug up in the same manner as the first, and so on till the whole is finished. How Done. — To render the operation of trenching three spades deep fully intelli- gible, it may be as well to make the description that has just been given yet more clear by reference to a diagram. Thus, in Fig. I, a plan of the ground to be trenched is shown divided into trenches, A, B, c, &c., of convenient width, say 12 TRENCHING. 515 TRENCHING. inches ; and in Fig 2 a longitudinal section of the ground, showing it divided into layers 8 inches in depth, and into trenches 12 inches wide, so that the trenching is carried to the depth of 2 feet. The opera- tion of trenching is commenced by taking out the top spit from the trench A and wheeling the soil to the other end of the piece of land to be trenched, placing it at H in a long row, the length of the row being equal to the width oi the land to be trenched, and at a sufficient distance from the space to be occupied by the last trench to allow the second spit from A to be placed at K, alongside of the mould at H, and nearer the last trench, G, than the mould at H. The top spit from the second trench, is then to be wheeled to L. The dispo- FIG. 2.— SECTIONAL DIAGRAM SHOWING TRANSFER OF EARTH FROM TRENCH TO TRENCH IN TRENCHING. sition of the first and second spits from A and the top spit from B is thus made to bring the mould into a convenient position for filling in the trenches F and G at the completion of the trenching ; for as the second spit in G is thrown into F to form the second spit of that trench, the top spits from A and B being thrown into F and G to form the top spits of those trenches. It will manifestly be easier to throw the mould of the second spit from A into G from K than if it had been placed to the rear of the top spits from A and B, and when this mould has been put in its place, the mould of the top spits from A and B may be thrown over the second spits in F and G just as the mould comes to hand. In the sectional view in Fig 2, the transfer -tf the spits of earth from trench to trench is shown by the arrows. No furlher men- tion need be made of the temporary removal of the first and second spits in A and the top spit in B to the rear of the ground to be trenched. In the diagram, the third spits are distinguished by crossed irregular lines. This spit in each trench is broken up into rough lumps when the spits above it have been removed. The second spits are shown by diagonal lines, and the transfer of the spits from B to A, from C to B, &c.,is shown by the short arrows. The top spits are shown by dotted spaces, and the transfer .of the spits from C to A, from D to B, &c., is shown by longer arrows. When the second spit in H has been removed to a similar position in G, and the top spits in G and H to similar positions in E and F respectively, the vacant spits which are left white in the diagram are filled in with the mould previously removed from the trenches A and B in the manner and order already explained. Action of Air on Soil. — Thus, while the entire soil in the ground that has been trenched has been stirred to the depth of two feet, it still retains that was the position, in point of depth', it held in the ground before it trenched ; the surface being left exposed for a time in rough unbroken lumps, till it crumbles naturally under the dis- integrating influence of the atmosphere. Oxygen enters into combination with all soils ; and it can be demonstrated that about one-half of the materials of the globe's crust, including its animal and vegetable products, is composed of oxygen. The chemist can only obtain it as a gas ; but when combined, it assumes divers forms, and occurs as liquids and solids, as well as a gas. About a half by weight of flint, rock-crystal, and other forms of silica, TRENCHING, ANOTHER MODE. 516 TRENCHING, LOUDON ON- is oxygen ; about a third of alumina, or pure clay, by measure, and a fifth of the atmosphere by weight, are oxygen ; and no plant or animal can exist without oxygen entering largely into its constitution. Trenching, Another Mode of. In the description of trenching given above, the width of the trenches has been stated at I foot. In practice it will be found convenient to make the width 18 inches or 2 feet, and in some cases, accord- ing to the nature of the soil and subsoil, it will be necessary to extend the width con- siderably, putting it at from 3 to 5 or even 6 feet, especially when the ground is uneven, and depressions and hollows have to be rilled up. When the space to be trenched is very long, in order to save the time and trouble involved in wheeling the soil taken »ut of the trenches A and. B to the rear of the ground, it is better to divide the ground longitudinally into two equal parts, as shown in the accompanying diagram. The topmost spit from the trench A can then be placed at D, the topmost spit from B at E, and the second spit from A at F, as shown by the dotted lines and arrow heads. On arriving at the other end of the first portion of the ground, the topmost spit from L will go to G, the second spit from L to H, and the topmost spit from K to H. The second portion will then be trenched backwards ; and, to complete the operation, the second spit of soil from A deposited temporarily at F will form the second layer in M, and the topmost spits from A and B, at D and E, will be transferred to M and N, and form the topmost spits of these trenches. It must not be supposed from what has been said about trenching that it is abso- lutely necessary at all times to trench ground to the depth of 2 feet, or, in other words, three spits deep. In ordinary cases it is sufficient to carry the trenching to two spks in depth, or 16 inches ; but in this the modus 'operandi is precisely the same, although the removal of the soil in the top- most spit of the first trench, either to the rear of the ground, or, as just described, to the topmost end of the second portion to be trenched, is all that is required. Nor is it an invariable rule that the original position of the three spits or strata is to be retained, for sometimes it is found necessary to reverse it, and to deposit the surface soil y\ — i x-±E D E / / / /^, \ \ F /'/ ** i ! ! i j i A 2Z * I i M B / / 1 N C G ^^ __-- K £.--" ~~~-.,_ L DIAGRAM SHOWING MODE OF TRENCHING WITH- OUT WHEELING SOIL TO REAR OF GROUND TO BE TRENCHED. at the bottom of the trench, while that which is below it is brought to the top. Trenching, London on. " Trenching," says Loudon, " is a mode of pulverising and mixing the soil, or of pulverising and changing its surface, to a greater depth than can be done by the spade alone " — that is to say, by thrusting the spade as far as possible into the ground and turning over the earth that can be lifted at one time by it, for, after all, trenching to any depth is performed by TRENCHING, LOUDON ON. 517 TRENCHING, ROBERTSON ON. aid of the spade. " For trenching with a view to pulverising and changing the surface, a trench is formed like the furrow in digging, but two or more times wider and deeper." The term "digging," it should be said, is applied by Loudon to the act of simply turning over the surface of ground with the spade. " The plot or piece to be trenched," he then continues, "is next marked off into parallel strips of this width, and beginning at one of these, the operator digs or picks the surface stratum, and throws it in the bottom of the trench. Having completed with the shovel the removal of the surface stratum, a second, and a third, or fourth, according to the depth of the soil and other circum- stances, is removed in the same way, and thus, when the operation is completed, the position of the different strata is exactly the reverse of what they were before. In trenching, with a view to mixture and pulverisation, all that is necessary is to open, at one corner of the plot, a trench or excavation of the desired depth, 3 or 4 feet long, and 6 or 8 feet broad. Then proceed to fill this excavation from one end by working out a similar one. In this way proceed across the piece to be trenched, and then return, and so on in parallel courses to the end of the plot, observing that the face or position of the moved soil in the trench must always be that of a slope, in order that whatever is thrown there may be mixed, and not deposited in regular layers as in the other case. To effect this most completely, the operator should always stand in the bottom of the trench, and first picking down and mixing the materials from the solid side, should next take them up with the shovel, and throw them on the slope or face of the moved soil, keeping a distinct space of 2 or 3 feet between them. For want of attention to this in trenching new soils for gardens and plantations, it may be truly said that half the benefit derivable from the operation is lost." Trenching, Robertson on. Mr. J. Robertson, of Cowdenknowes, writing in Gardening Illustrated^ thus insists on the importance of trenching and double digging. November, he points out, " is the time to get as much of the garden dug over as possible," and then, turning to the main part of his subject, he continues : — • " It is a good plan to trench part of the garden every year, exposing as much sur- face to the frost as possible. The piece of ground intended for carrots, parsnips, beet, salsafy, scorzonera, chicory, and all such things with long roots, should be trenched ; by so doing, the roots are not so apt to fork. Peas and potatoes also do well on newly trenched ground. When commenc- ing to trench a piece of ground, I take an opening out 3 feet wide and three spades deep, and wheel the soil to the other end for filling in the last trench. I make each trench the same width. After two spits deep is turned over into the trench, I then put the manure on the top of that, the last spit going on top of the manure in form of a ridge. It is best to lay the soil up in ridges, and as rough as possible, exposing as much surface to the influence of frost as can be done. If the garden has a gravelly or sandy bottom it will be sure to be dry in summer. When trenching such ground, put into the bottom of the trench all old cabbages that are past any use, cauliflower leaves, and all such vegetable refuse ; by doing so, it helps to retain the moisture in dry seasons, and it will be found to help substantially the rowing crops in summer. When manure is plentiful it shou'd not be spared when trenching, putting a layer between every spit. In gardens, where there is time, instead of digging one spade deep, and laying up rough for winter, it is a gooC TRENCHING, ROBERTSON ON. $18 TRENCHING, ROBERTSON ON. system to double dig, laying up in ridges. Take out an opening two spades broad and two deep, and spread the manure on the surface, digging it into the bottom with the first spit, the last spit going on the top in the form of a ridge. By ridging there is a vast amount more surface exposed to the action of the frost than there would be by level digging ; and in spring, when it is levelled down to get in the crops, it will be found that the frost has torn it asunder and pulverised it so nicely that it goes down like meal, and is in splendid condition for receiving seeds. By adopting a course of trenching and double digging, in a few years the effect will be apparent. A nice depth of rich, easy-worked soil will be secured, which most vegetables will take to and root in readily, and when vegetables do so, whatever the sort may be, we have prospects of a good crop. Where the soil is of a clayey nature, it is a good plan to work in, while trenching and double dig- ging, plenty of leaf mould, old lime rubbish, sand, or anything of a light nature that will help to keep the soil open and sweet." Trenching therefore may be managed in two different ways — one in which the rela- tive position of the spits or strata is pre- served, nothing more in change of position of each spit being effected than in turning it upside down, breaking into pieces, as far as may be possible, with the view of admitting air between the pieces, in order to produce further pulverisation ; and the other in which the strata are broken up and thoroughly commingled without any attempt being made to preserve their original position. The first method is the best for garden ground already under culti- vation or in process of renewal ; and the second for ground that is broken up for th'e first time, but even in this case the nature of the soil and subsoil will indicate the kind of trenching that may most profitably be applied to it. Trenching is not a process to be carried out every year : it should be carried out in the flower garden at long intervals, as indi- cated, but when it is done, it should be done properly and effectually. The opera- tion of trenching, simple as it appears, is often so indifferently performed as to be of doubtful utility. Sometimes the best soil is thrown into the bottom of the trench, and a foot of sterile clay brought to the surface. Such practice is to be avoided ; for while most soils are improved by a slight admixture of the subsoil, such a mode of procedure as that to which allusion has just been made would prove a quietus to the productive powers of many soils for many years. The process of deepening shallow soils must be gradual. The best mode is to bring up, say, 6 or 8 inches of the subsoil, and mix it with the top soil ; then dig up the bottom of the trench a spit deep, place a layer of manure on the bottom so loosened, and proceed filling up with the next trench, mixing the soil as much as possible, and incorporating the manure with it as the process goes on. The operation is performed by first digging out a trench 3 feet wide and 3 or 4 feet deep, and wheeling the soil taken out to the other end of the ground. Then spread a layer of manure from 9 to 12 inches thick upon the next yard of ground, dig up the bottom of the open trench, divide the yard of ground already manured in the middle^ throw part of the manure from its surface into the bottom of the open trench, and then proceed right down the entire depth with this half trench. Keeping the ground in the half-filled trench at a rough level, proceed to fill up with the 18 inches left; the result will be that the top and bottom earth will not be simply inverted, but will be mixed with manure and thoroughly in- corporated together. The next time the ground is trenched, the bottom spit of sub- soil will be mixed with the other soil, and TRITELEIA. 5T9 TROP^OLUM. another turned up and manured as before. In this way, soil that was only from 15 to 1 8 inches in depth will gradually be deepened to 3 or 4 feet, which is requisite to grow most plants in the highest perfec- tion. Triteleia (nat. ord. Lilia'cese). A genus to whose species the name of the "Triplet Lily" is sometimes given. TRITELEIA UNIFLORA. They are bulbous plants, half hardy in character, and are useful as pot plants or in borders, and even on grass, like snowdrops. They require a good rich soil, and the ground or pots in which the bulbs are planted should be efficiently drained. Tri- teleia aurea, with yellow flowers, is a useful species, and so is T. laxa, with blue flowers, also known as " Ithuriel's Spear." A third is T. uniftora, or Spring Star Flower, with flowers of a pale lilac cblour. Trito'ma, or Kniphofia (not. ord. Lilia'cese). An exceedingly showy free- flowering plant, with long graceful leaves and majes- tic flower-spikes, three to seven feet in height, crowned with densely flowered spikes of bloom, which are produced during the autumn months, 1 8 to 27 inches long. Culture. — Dig and well work the soil to the depth of 2 or 3 feet, adding plenty of rotted manure. The crown of the plant should not be more than an inch and a half in the soil ; for winter protection surround the plant with two inches of saw- dust, firmly trodden. Remove this early in May : from then till the plant is in bloom weak liquid manure must be ap- plied in large quantities, especially during dry weather. The best species for garden culture is Tritoma aloides, with spikes of orange scarlet flowers, changing to orange and then to a greenish yellow, known as the "Flame Flower" and "Red-hot Poker Plant " ; this species is also known as T. Uvaria, or Kniphofia Uvaria. Tropae'olum (nat. ord. Gerania'cese). A tribe of elegant-growing, profuse- flowering, and easily cultivated climbers, half-hardy annuals, combining with these important qualities great richness and bril- liancy of colour, with finely formed and beautifully marked flowers. For pillars and rafters, in the greenhouse or conserva- TRITOMA UVARIA. tory, they are invaluable ; for covering trellises, verandas, and bowers out of doors, they are of equal importance j while TROPyEOLUM. 520 TROWEL. for bedding purposes they are excellent, especially when of dwarf habit. When used for bedding, the trailing varieties should be regularly and carefully pegged down, interlacing the shoots, and occa- TROP^EOLUM LOBBIANUM. sionally removing the large leaves. In pleasure grounds, where the beds are some- times protected with fancy wire-work against the depredations of rabbits and hares, the tropaeolums are invaluable for covering it, as they grow rapidly, are easily trained, and continue flowering the whole summer and autumn. Nothing further need be said about the ordinary outdoor varieties, the seed of which may be procured from any seeds- man, producing flowers of all shades from the palest straw colour, through orange and red of different depths of tint to a dark, rich reddish brown. For outdoor use, for covering trellises, summer-houses, &c. , Tropaolum Lobbiamim, T. ma/us, and T. peregrinum are especially desirable ; and it may be added that T. Lobbianum blooms beautifully through the winter months in the greenhouse or' conservatory, so that where cut flowers are in demand they will be found an invaluable acquisition. It will grow freely in light rich soil. There are tuberous-rooted varieties of the Tropseolum, such as T. azurium, with azure-blue flowers, and T. tricolorum, with orange-scarlet flowers, tipped with black, which are only suited for greenhouse cul- ture. Trowel. This is a tool that no one can possibly do without, as it is frequently required both in planting and transplanting and in potting. It consists of a shovel-shaped blade, with the sides turned up, so as to better hold and retain anything that may be taken up in it. A bent neck, with a tang to it, is riveted to the top of the blade in the centre, the tang being inserted in a neatly turned handle, with a ring round the part at the entrance of the tang to prevent splitting. Garden trowels, as shown in Fig. I, are classified as " light," "strong," and "best," and are made in sizes of 5, 6, 7, and 8 inches in length. The fern trowel is longer than the ordinary garden trowel, and TROP-dSOLUM PEREGRINUM. the blade is also curved from top to point, is shown in Fig. 2. They are made in one TUBEROSE. 521 TUBEROUS PLANTS. size only. In transplanting small seedling plants and cuttings the utility of the trowel is very great, for a hole may first be made in the soil with it for the reception of the FIG. I. — GARDEN TROWEL. plant, and the plant may then be lifted bodily, with the soil about its roots undis- turbed, and gently deposited in the hole made for it. The prices of garden trowels FIG. 2. — FERX TROWEL. are as follows: — Light, from 6d. to is., according to length ; strong, from gd. to is. 2d. ; best, from is. to 2s. Fern trowels are is. 6d. each, or in leather cases, 2s. Tu'be'rose (««/. ord. Hemerocallid'eae). A bulbous-rooted plant from the East Indies ; flowers white, very odoriferous. They require to be started in a pit. In January plant the bulbs singly in very small pots in sandy loam ; plunge them in a pit of moderate heat ; give little or no water till they have made a start, then water sparingly. When they have filled their pots with roots, shift them and re-plunge them until they show bloom, when they may be removed to the greenhouse, where they will last in flower about two months. Tuberous Plants, Propagation of. Bulbous-rooted plants may be propa- gated by seeds as well as by offsets in the form of bulblets or little bulbs, for the term is by no means to be restricted to tiny bulbs formed in the axils of the leaves of plants, as some are in- clined to think, and tuberous plants also are propagated by seeds as well as by means of their tubers. With such plants, how- ever, propagation by seed leads to the pro- duction of new varieties, while propagation by bulb or tuber must of necessity be resorted to in order to ensure the main- tenance of the same variety. Thus, new varieties of the potato are produced by hybridisation from seeds, but if any variety raised from seed exhibits qualities which render its preservation and propagation desirable, this must be effected by offsets from its tubers. The dahlia is a tuberous plant, which is increased by offsets from tubers, or even by cuttings of sprouts from tubers, but new varieties must be raised from seed. Tubers, a term obtained from the Latin tuber, a hump or protuberance, from tumeo, I swell, are expansions of underground stems studded here and there with eyes or buds, and stored with starchy or feculent matter, which affords nourish- ment to the buds until their root growth is ufficiently progressed to admit of their deriving support direct from the soil. The turnip, parsnip, carrot, beetroot, and radish should be termed tuberoids rather than tuberous roots ; they resemble genuine tubers in many points, but they are not re- TUBERS. 522 TULIPS. produced from offsets cut from them, but wholly from seed. Tubers, Propagation by Eyes in. It is found that, except in the case of annuals — as plants are called which are raised from seed, which grow, produce their seeds, and ripen their fruit in one year — much time is lost by following this mode of propagation ; it is also found that the seed does not always produce the same identical plant ; above all, it is found that none of the double-flowering, and few of the herbaceous- flowering plants, with which our gardens are furnished, ripen their seeds in our climate. The observation of this led to other methods of multiplying ; for, besides the roots properly so called, which attach themselves to the soil, and draw from it the principal nourishment of the plant, it is found that each branch conceals under its outward covering a bundle of fibre or tissue, which, under favourable circumstances, de- velops roots, and becomes the basis of an independent plant, identical with that from which it sprang. Many plants have also a crown with buds or eyes, each capable of propagating its species. Every plant with roots of this description may be divided into as many portions as there are eyes, taking care that a few fibres are attached to the root, and each will become an indepen- dent plant. The potato, and all the bulbous and tuberous plants, are familiar examples of this principle of propagation ; so are the dahlia and paeony, which grow better when the set is confined to a piece of the tuber with one eye attached than when planted whole. So conspicuous is this in the potato, that, where it is planted whole, ajl the eyes except one, or at most two, are scooped out with a sharp knife ; and the only argument on which this mode of planting is adopted at all is that it supplies the young plant with more of its natural pabulum while it is rooting, and thus in- creases the vigour of the young plant. Tu'lips (nat. ord. Lilia'cea). Blooms of Seedlings. — There is a pecu- liarity belonging to tulips which, apparently, does not belong to any other flower. The seedlings, in their first bloom generally produce flowers without any stripes or TULIPA GESNERIANA— SINGLE VARIETY. markings, all the upright portions of the petal being self-coloured, flowering for years without any such variegations, when they are called breeders. After some years they break out into stripes : if these are liked, they are named ; but they have multiplied in the breeder state, and may have been distributed in all directions, each person possessed of one which has broken using the privilege of naming it ; hence many, with different synonyms, are one and the same thing. It is another pecu- TULIPS. 523 TULIPS. liarity, that of twenty of a sort in the same bed, scarcely two may come up alike, although gocd judges can recognise them. These peculiarities interfere with their cultivation, though it is possible that some TULIPA GESNERIANA — DOUBLE VARIETY. may regard them as being among the charms of tulip-cultivation. Soil. — The perfection of soil for tulip- culture would be three inches of the top of a rich loamy pasture, the turf of which, cleared of wireworm, grub, and insect, has lain by till thoroughly rotted, and which has been repeatedly turned and picked: the decayed vegetable matter will suffice without other dressing. Preparation of Bed, — The tulip bed should run north and south, with drainage perfect, but without stones or rubbish at the bottom. The bed may be dug out 4 feet wide and 2 feet 6 inches deep, and the compost previously prepared filled in till it is a few inches above the path, the centre being 2 inches higher than the sides. All water must be withdrawn from the bottom of the bed : it is not enough to give drainage, unless an outlet is found, so as to avoid stagnant water. A few days should be given for the bed to settle, rake all smooth, leaving the bed 3 inches above the path. Time for Planting. — The best time for planting is the last fortnight in October, or early in November. Planting. — When the bed is perfectly ready to receive them, the bulbs are placed in seven rows across the bed, and 6 inches apart in the rows. They are pressed in a little ; soil is then placed upon them, 3 inches above the crown of the bulbs, so that the bed being raised in- the centre, the middle row will be covered 4 or 5 inches. The bulbs are planted, of course, according to their height and colour — those growing 15 or 1 8 inches occupying the outside rows ; the second rows on each side are those growing 2 feet, and those growing 2 feet 6 inches occupy the three centre rows. When planted and covered, they may be left until the leaf-buds begin to peep through the ground. Of course the sides of the bed must be protected by edgings either of wood or tiles. Protection against Frost, &°f. — As frost approaches, while giving as much air as possible, they should be protected against PARROT TULIP. it by mats or other shelter, but not longer than is necessary; otherwise they get TULIPS. 524 TULIPS. drawn up weakly. In February they begin to appear, when the ground should be stirred, all lumps broken, and pressed close round the stems. As the spikes begin to open, they form a receptacle for the wet, and the frost must not be then allowed to reach them. When the colours begin to show, in order to protect their bloom, a top-cloth must be provided to shelter them from the sun, taking care that no more air than is absolutely necessary is excluded, the cloth being let down on the sunny side only, and that only when the sun is powerful. Storing Bulbs. — Soon after tulips have finished flowering, the leaves will ripen and die off. They should be immediately taken up with all the soil that will adhere to the bulb, slightly dried, and put away in drawers or paper bags, each sort by itself. During the summer they should be fre- quently looked over to see that they are not decaying. On the 1st of October rub off all the offsets, and plant them by them- selves, and prepare for planting the entire stock forthwith. For the names and colours of special sorts of the tulip, whether dwarf or show, the reader is referred to the price list of any nurseryman and seedsman who provides a large stock of Dutch bulbs for sale in autumn. Sowing Seed. — Tulip seed may be sown either in spring or autumn, and in the soil already described ; it should be saved from the best flowers only, and those grown by themselves, where no inferior pollen can reach them. The small offsets should be planted by themselves and labelled, in similar soil to that already described. Breeders such as we have described may be grown in any soil. Classification. — Tulips are divided into Roses, Byblomens, and Bizarres. Roses have a white ground, and crimson, pink, or scarlet markings. Byblomens are those having a white ground, and purple, lilac, or black markings. Bizarres have a yellow ground, with any coloured marks that pre- sent themselves. Self-tulips are those which are of one colour, such as white or yellow, showing no inclination to sport into other colours. All tulips stained at the base should be excluded in collections in- tended for exhibition ; for, though they may mark prettily, this defect is fatal to competition : those having long dispropor- tioned cups or pointed petals are also defec- tive for that purpose. Whenever addition is made to the bed, make the selection when they are in bloom. By this means you are certain of the strain. If seed is required, let the hybridising or crossing be done now, selecting finely formed and pure flowers on both sides ; do not, however, cross a rose or byblomen with a bizarre. Early Tulips.— For the purposes of winter and spring gardening, early flower- ing tulips, double and single, are even more indispensable than the hyacinth, narcissus, and crocus. Their rich, brilliant, and diversified hues constitute, for the sitting- room, conservatory, and winter garden, a charm of no ordinary character, .while in the beds and borders of the spring flower- garden their picturesque effect and glowing combination of colours exceed those afforded by any other section of garden favourites. Their extreme hardiness, certainty of bloom- ing, and the absence of all difficulty in their cultivation, distinctly entitle them to a preference in the choice of occupants for the spring flower garden. Tulips do well in the shade, and there they remain long in bloom. Early Single Tulips. — No section of tulips displays so great a variety of delicate, striking, and attractive colours. Of Selfs, there are beautiful scarlets, crimsons, whites, and yellows ; of parti-colours, snow-white grounds, striped and feathered with purple, violet, crimson, rose, puce, and cerise, andyel- low grounds, with crimson, scarlet, and red flakes and feathers ; so that only those who TULIPS. 525 TURF, LAYING ON LAWNS. have cultivated the varieties of early single tulips systematically can form any just idea of their beauty, either as regards the shape of the flowers, the brilliancy and variety of their colours, or their general value for decorative purposes. Tulips in Pots. — For winter and spring decoration under glass the tulip may be placed next to the hyacinth. The single and double dwarf Due van Thol tulips are for this purpose most valuable. There are also several large flowering double tulips, which produce a brilliant display. The former may be planted, six or eight bulbs in a good -sized pot ; but of the latter three bulbs will be sufficient. All tulips require a good supply of water when in flower, and to be shaded from the sun. The single Due van Thol is the earliest of all. If these be planted in September they may be had in bloom before Christmas, and by later planting, a succession may be kept up for some tftne. Of the large double tulips, which are remarkably showy, the best varieties are Imperator rubrorum^ Duke of York (bronze crimson with a yellow mar- gin), Extremite d'Or (rich crimson bordered with orange), La Candeur (pure white), and Tournesol (scarlet and yellow). The soil and treatment necessary for these, whether grown in pots or in the open ground, are the same as recommended for hyacinths, •which see. Early Double Tulips. — The massive torm, brilliant, diversified, and beautiful colours, which are leading features in double tulips, admirably adapt them for beds on the lawn, terrace, or flower garden, and for edgings to rhododendron, azalea, and rose beds, or for planting in the flower and shrubbery borders in groups of three or more. In pots the variety of this section are very attractive, but as a rule they are better adapted for out-door than in-door decoration. Parrot Tulips. — The parrot tulip has a singularly picturesque appearance ; the flowers are large and the colours brilliant, so that when planted in flower borders and the front of shrubberies they produce a most striking effect. When grown in hanging baskets, and so planted as to cause their large gay flowers to droop over the side, the effect is remarkable and unique. Turf. The appearance of a garden depends greatly on the quality of the turf and the way in which it is kept. Close cutting and continual rolling is the secret of good turf. On good soil little else is requisite ; but on poor, sandy soil the verdure must be main- tained by occasional waterings with liquid TURF BEATER. manure and a dressing with guano or soot, if the lawn be not so near the house as to render such applications objectionable. Turf Beater. This consists of a flat piece of wood about from 9 to 12 inches square and 3 inches thick, with a handle fixed to the upper sur- face of the wood, as shown in the accom- panying illustration. The handle must be tolerably long, and must be inclined to the block of wood at such an angle that when raised and brought down on the turf, the under surface of the block may fall flat upon it. The end of the handle should not be cut at an angle, but inserted just as it is in a hole cut in the wood for its recep- tion. Turf, Laying on Lawns, This is best performed during tb»*nomta of November or December. TURF SPADE. 526 TURNIPS. Turf Spade or Turfing Iron. Closely allied to the shovel in form, though it is used for a very different pur- pose, is the turf spade or turfing iron, illustrated in the accompanying engraving. This implement, which is required only by professional gardeners, unless the garden or series of gar- dens may be large enough to bring it occasionally into requi- sition, either for cutting fresh turf or for removing the sward from the surface already covered in order to remedy inequalities, is a heart-shaped steel blade, riveted to a bent shank termi- nating in a socket for the reception of the handle. It is thus formed that the blade may be thrust under the turf in a direction parallel to the surface without inconve- nience. Turf is generally marked out into rows I foot in breadth, and the edges of the rows are cut from end to end with a spade or any sharp instrument. The rows are divided in the same way into lengths of 3 feet. The turf spade is then passed under each length, and they are then rolled up for removal. When the removal of any in- equality of surface is the object in view, the turf need only be rolled or lifted back, so as to lay bare the spot to or from which some soil is to be added or taken away, as the case may be. It is also useful for cutting turf from pasture ground to be laid' by in heaps to rot, and thus form mould, although for this purpose turf may be cut well enough with a spade or shovel. The numbers, indicating sizes, and the prices TURF SPADE OR TURFING IRON. of cast steel turfing irons are as follows : — • No. o, 6s. 6d. ; I, 73. 6d. ; 2, 8s. 6d. ; 3, 95. 6d. If handles are required, they^ are supplied at is. extra. Turfing by Inoculation. This is done by thickly scattering small pieces of turf over the ground and rolling or beating them in. Turnips. Preparation of the Land. — A somewhat light, sandy, but deep rich soil, is most suitable for turnips, and is indeed essential to secure bulbs of mild and delicate flavour. If the summer crops sustain any check during their growth, they are apt to be stringy and high-flavoured. Select, then, a deep light soil, manure it heavily, and trench to a depth of 2 feet, early in autumn. If ground must be used for the summer sowings which was not trenched in autumn, this should be done before putting in the seed. Time and Manner of Sowing. — Sow a small breadth of the Early White Dutch, for the chance of a crop, upon a south STRAP-LEAVED WHITE STONE TURNIP. border, or in a warm, sheltered situation, early in March ; and as this sowing is liable to run to seed soon, put in a small quantity of the same variety about the middle of the month, and again early in TURNIPS. 5-7 TURNIPS. April, sowing a small breadth of the Early Strap-leaved White Stone at the same time. Afterwards sow at intervals of three weeks or a month till July, and for a winter supply from the beginning to the middle of August. On light warm soils, in favourable localities, useful-sized bulbs may be obtained from sowings made early in September. The Orange Jelly is one of the best varieties for autumn sowing ; but if a white-fleshed turnip is required, use Veitch's Red Globe. All the sowings should be made in shallow drills from 12 to 18 inches apart, regulating the distance by the size of bulbs which may be most esteemed : 12 inches will be sufficient for the early and late sowings. Scatter the seed very thinly and evenly, and cover it lightly with the finest of the soil. In summer, when the ground is dry, the drills should be well watered before sow- ing, and if the seed is steeped in water for twenty-four hours, this will hasten germination. After-management, — Thin out the plants as soon as they are sufficiently strong to draw, so that they may stand from 6 to 9 inches apart in the row. If fly makes its appearance — and this is very trouble- some during summer in warm localities — dust the plants over with quicklime early in the morning, while the leaves are moist with dew. Repeat this operation as often as may be necessary. Keep the surface of the ground open and free from weeds by frequent stirrings with the hoe. LEX (««/. 0^- Legu- mino'sse). This is the botanical name for the Furze, of which there are several varieties. All are free- flowering evergreen shrubs with yellow blossoms : they may be propagated by cuttings, and most of them from seed, which they produce and ripen freely. The double-blossomed furze is singularly beauti- ful and very useful for hedges. Where furze of any kind is used for this purpose, the best plan is to raise a bank the height desired, wider at bottom than at top, and along the ridge to plant the cuttings or sow seed, as may be preferred. The hill-crest gained, there burst upon the view Of Upsal's botanist, a vast expanse Of undulating common, all aglow With yellow bloom, so densely packed and massed That the whole plain was like the heaving sea .Of yellow billows. Yet 'twas nothing more Than the bright flowers of furze, or whin, or gorse, As called by us, to Linne better known As Ulex ; still a spectacle that brought Him humbly to his knees, to thank his God His gaze had wandered o'er so fair a sight." — ANON. Ul'mus (not. ord. Urtica'cese). The Elm is very ornamental in parks and pleasure grounds. It requires a deep, rich soil. The Weeping Elm is a very beautiful variety. See Elm and Chief Varieties. Umbrella-Tree. A name given by the Americans to one species of the Magnolia — M. tripetala — from the size of its leaves. The flowers are white and very fragrant. Single speci- mens are very handsome objects on lawns ; they flourish best in peat. Urti'ca (not. ord. Urtica'cese). The common nettle, Urtica dioic.a, is 528 URTICA. 529 UVULARIA. known to every one as a wayside weed. | freely the first year. This plant yields the There are, however, some beautiful varieties i fibre called Chinese grass. well worthy of garden cultivation. U. reticu- URTICA NIVEA. lata, from the West Indies, is remarkable for its dark green foliage and red and yellow flowers. U- nivea^ from China, is a half- hardy perennial, with fine leaves, the under side of which is silvery white ; a fine plant for flower borders or the centres of beds ; grows in light rich soil ; blooms Uvula'ria (not. ord. Lilia'cese). A genus of bulbous plants, mostly hardy North American perennials, bearing flowers of a pale yellow. Like most American plants, they succeed best in bog earth. They produce an abundance of offsets, from hich their propagation is very easy< :he sno There d Hiding their modest and beautiful heads Under the hawthorn iu soft mossy beds. Sweet as the roses and blue as the sky, Down there do the dear little violets lie, Hiding their heads where they scarce may be seen By the leaves you may know where the violet hath been." MoULTRiii. Vaccinia' cese). This is the name of a large genus which in- cludes the Whortleberry (Vaccinitim myrtilhis], a pretty little heath-like shrub with droop- ing flowers and showy fruit. The Whortleberry is also known as the Bilberry, Bleaberry, and Blueberry. The Cranberry (Oxy coccus) belongs to the same order, but to a different genus. The Vacciniums require peaty soil. Vale'rian (nat. ord. Valeria'neae). ' Perennial plants suitable for rock-work. The best known is Valeriana officinalis, the Common Valerian, also called All ileal and St. George's Herb, noticeable for its pink flowers growing in loose corymbs. They are propagated by divi- sion of the roots, and do well in any ordi- nary soil. Vallisne'ria (nat. ord. Hydrocha^ rid'ese). A curious and most interesting water- plant ( Valiisneria spiralis, also called Eel Grass and Tape Grass), and named after Antonio Vallisneri, an Italian botanist. It should be potted in turfy loam, and the pot sunk in the water-tank of a green- house or conservatory. The male and female flowers are on different plants — the latter rise on a spiral stalk to the surface, while the former are produced at the bottom. " Before the anthers burst to discharge the pollen," says Mrs. Loudon, 53Q VALLOTTA. VASES. " the male flowers detach themselves from their stalks and rise to the surface, on which they float like little white bubbles. After the pollen has been distributed over the stigmas, the male flowers wither, and COMMON VALERIAN. the spiral stalks of the females coil up again, so as to draw the seed-vessel under the water, that it may ripen at the bottom and burst when just in the proper place to deposit its seeds. Nothing can be more beautiful than the whole arrangement ; and nothing can show more strikingly the admirable manner in which the economy of nature is carried on." This plant is very suitable for aquaria. Valletta (nat. ord. Amarydilleae). A beautiful lily, better known as the Scarborough Lily than by its botanical name, Valletta purpurea. It is a hand- some bulbous plant, and is suitable for greenhouse culture. The bulbs should be planted in June or July in large deep pots, with the crown of the bulb at least 6 inches below the surface of the soil in a compost composed of equal parts of good fibrous loam, leaf mould, and sand. The bulbs should be planted firmly and left undisturbed to establish themselves. They require water and even liquid manure when growing and in flower. Vanilla (nat. ord. Orchida'cess). This little creeping parasite will flower best in the strong damp heat of the orchid house. It throws out roots at every joint, and requires plenty of pieces of bark, &c., to which to attach itself. Variegated Leaves, Plants with. Much attention has been paid of late years to plants of variegated foliage, and certainly they are a great success. Few things are more attractive than the dif- ferent sorts of caladiums, begonias, Coleus alocasea, &c. For a plant to be truly variegated, that is, able to retain its different colours under propagation, the edges of the leaves must be well defined. Plants with parti -coloured leaves are fre- quently met with which are mere sports, and which revert to their original hue if VALLISNERIA. any attempt is made to increase the plants by cuttings, &c. Vases. These may be introduced into pleasure grounds, especially upon terraces, with VEGETABLE MARROWS. 532 VEGETABLES, CLASSIFICATION. very good effect. They can be filled with soil and planted, or pots of choice flowers can be set in them and changed as soon as the blossoms begin to fade. Ornamental vases for gardens are usually made of terra cotta. A good substitute may be found for them in paraffin casks sawn in half, or in the pails in which lard is sent from America to this country. Vegetable Marrows, Gourds, Pumpkins, &c. All vegetables of this class, which pro- duce an immense amount of food, are very profitable, and may be easily cultivated. Preparation of the Soil. — These require a very deep, light, rich soil, and if planted in the open ground, a sheltered and warm situation. Dig pits 2 feet wide and deep, and fill with well-prepared fermenting manure, and cover about a foot deep with soil. The pits should be from 6 to 10 feet apart, and should be prepared about a week before planting, so that the soil may be properly warmed by the heat from the manure. The tops of compost heaps and hills of decaying leaves, manure, &c., will, however, afford the best possible situation for their growth. Sowing , and Preparation of the Plants. — Sow early in April, in a pot or pan, filled with light soil, covering the seeds about half an inch ; place in gentle heat, and as soon as the plants are sufficiently strong to handle, pot them off into 7-inch pots, put- ting two plants in each, and replace them near the glass in the warmth. When well established, remove to a cold frame, and gradually prepare for planting out, by a freer ^rposure to air, &c. Planting and After -management. — Towards the end of May, or as soon as the weather is warm, and appears to be settled, and the plants ready, plant them out, and protect them for a time by hand- glares or other means, and attend to watering until the roots get hold of the soil. Train and regulate the shoots, so as to prevent them from growing too closely together, and stop them, if necessary, to forward the growth of the fruit. The plants should not be allowed to feel the want of water at the roots, but if planted in suitable situations, watering will seldom be necessary. Marrows, as it has been said, will grow well when placed on a dunghill, or on any hillock formed of stable refuse and covered over with earth. Being a trailing plant, this position suits it, and the hillock will soon be covered with vines. If the vines are pegged down at a joint, and the joint covered with earth, roots will be sent out from the joint, and will afford fresh channels of nutriment for the plant and its fruit. Vegetable marrows, gourds, &c., may be trained on trellises, fences, &c., on which their broad green leaves, brilliant yellow flowers, and fruits of various forms and colours will present an attractive appearance. The approved varieties of the vegetable marrow are numerous, but among these it will be sufficient to name the "Bush" Marrow, not a trailer, but one of compact habit and bush-like. The " Long White" are the most prolific croppers in the market, and not to be excelled for general use, and the " Custard," bearing small fruit of delicious flavour. Vegetable Mould. Vegetable mould, the richest of all garden soils, contains from 5 to 12 per cent of humus; that is, decomposed vege- table and animal matter. See Humus, Soils, &c. Vegetables, Classification of. In considering vegetables generally it is useful to seek some kind of classification for them, so that the kinds that belong to each class may be taken in groups. The VEGETABLES. 533 VEGETABLES, PRESERVED. classification in sections may be most con- veniently effected as follows : — I. Legu- minous Section, including Peas, Broad Beans, and French Beans, both dwarfs and runners. 2. Edible Leaved and Flowered Section, including plants of which we eat the leaves or flowers, or both, being Borecole or Kale, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbages, Savoys, Couve Tronchuda, Cauliflower, Spinach, Asparagus, Seakale, Globe Artichoke, &c. 3. Edible Rooted Section, including plants of which we eat the roots or tubers, namely, Beet, Carrot, Parsnip, Turnip, Salsafy, Scorzonera, Leek, Onion, Garlic, Potato, Jerusalem Artichoke, &c. 4. Edible Fruited Section, or plants of which we eat the fruit, namely, Capsicums and Chilis, Cucumbers, Vegetable Marrows, Melons, Tomatoes, &c. 5. Salad Section, comprising Celery, Endive, Lettuce, Raddishes, Corn Salad, Mustard and Cress of various kinds. 6. The Mush- room, a nondescript, which cannot be classed under any of the preceding heads, or with 7. Sweet Herb Section, including Parsley and all Pot Herbs, and Sweet Herbs, and Herbs in use for garnishing. Vegetables, Constant Supply of. It often happens in gardens that at one time there is a superabundance of vege- tables, and that at another there is next to nothing to be had. The young gardener should make a note of this, and endeavour to manage so that there is no flush of vegetables at one time and a dearth of them at others. Particularly let it be borne in mind that we have long cold springs, in which the weather is exceed- ingly variable and mostly ungenial, when vegetation makes very slow progress in- deed : it is then that root crops and Brassicae come in so useful; then that Brussels sprouts, kale, and broccoli, yield a succession of sweet wholesome sprouts, that grow almost in the coldest weather, and form the principal supply from Christ- mas to May. In summer is the time to look forward to the requirements of spring and be well prepared for them, so that available space should have been left in which a plentiful supply of the above named can be grown. Ground that has been lying fallow since the winter can now be turned to good account; and be it remembered that fifty firm stocky plants of broccoli will yield a better supply than a hundred plants that have been drawn up between other crops or been crowded. Vegetables, Preserved. There are several processes, most of them of French origin, by which vegetables of the more delicate varieties, as French beans, green peas, and cauliflowers, may be preserved in their green state, and be nearly as fresh as when first gathered. In the Revue Horticole the following is given as the method employed by M. Gohen, of Montigny, for preserving French beans in a fresh and green state, so as to keep sweet till the following season, when new crops are fit for gathering. The beans for the pur- pose are gathered in dry weather, and after the dews of the night have been evaporated. They are plunged into boiling water, taken out again immediately, and allowed to stand till they are cool, when they are put into a small cask, a layer of vine-leaves being placed at the bottom ; over this is laid a layer of beans 6 inches thick, then another thin layer of vine-leaves, and then beans; and so on alternately, until the cask is nearly full, when the whole are covered with a layer of vine-leaves. A board is now fitted to the cask, neatly fitting into it, and a weight placed over it, sufficient to press the contents of the cask into a compact mass. When the pressure has been on it some hours, a sufficient quantity of salt and water should be poured VEGETABLES, STORING. 534 VEGETABLES, STORING. over it to saturate the whole mass freely, and the board and weight replaced. As the salt and water evaporate, it should be replenished from time to time, to keep the whole contents of the cask moist, taking care that the board is always re- placed immediately after portions of the vegetable have been removed for use. Vegetables, Storing. There are several sorts of vegetables which require storing for winter — potatoes, carrots, beet, and onions are the chief of ihem. Potatoes do best when harvested in clumps in the open ground, care being taken to protect them from rain and frost. A long ridge is the best form. The ground should be dry and thoroughly drained. The potatoes should be heaped on a ridge, tapering from a base of 3 feet to a foot and a half, or less, at the top, separating the" different sorts by divisions in the ridge. It is usual to cover this ridge wi*.h a thatch of wheat straw, and then with 6 or 8 inches of mould ; but some authorities highly disapprove of this. Mclntosh re- commends the tubers being covered with turf, and afterwards with soil ; and in the absence of these, laying on the soil at once without any litter. After having laid on 9 or 10 inches of soil, thatch the whole over an inch and a half thick, with straw, fern leaves, or any similar non-conducting material ; " the object being," he says, " first to exclude frost and wet, and, secondly, to exclude heat ; for which pur- pose earth is not sufficiently a non-conduc- tor of heat and cold. " If the weather is fine when the tubers are taken up, and the potatoes are required for early use, much of this labour may be dispensed with ; but if for spring and earjy summer use, the precautions will be found necessary. Carrots, beet, and other similar root-crops should be taken up before the frost sets in : they may either be stored in a dry cellar, covered with dry sand, or after the manner of the potato. The London market gardeners winter their beet and carrots in large sheds, in moderately damp mould, and banked up with straw ; " for," says Mr. Cuthill, " it is a mistake to pack them all in dry sand or earth for the winter ; and the same may be said with regard to carrots, parsnips, salsafy, scorzonera, and other similar roots ; and by this means," he goes on to say, " the roots retain their natural sap, and the colour is preserved." It is probably unnecessary to add that in roots and tubers, as with fruit, all cut or bruised ones should be thrown aside ; when the skin is cut, or a bruise exists, the ele- ments of decay are soon introduced, and all others within reach contaminated. A dry day should be chosen for lifting them, and they should be exposed a few hours before collecting into heaps, that the soil adhering to them may dry. Onions should be lifted a little before they have altogether ceased to grow ; the leaf turning yellow and beginning to fade will be the sign. As they are taken up they should be placed in a dry, airy place, but without being exposed to the sun. If they are thinly spread out on a dry floor or shelf covered with sand, or on a gravel walk partially shaded in fine weather, they will do very well. As they dry, the rough- est leaves should be removed ; when dry, they should be removed to a warm, dry loft, where they can ripen more thoroughly. When in a proper state for storing, they should be gone carefully over and separated, the smallest ones for pickling, the ripest picked out, as likely to keep longest ; those with portions of leaves to them are best stored by stringing and suspending them from the ceiling of the room, which pro- motes ripening. The stringing is done by twisting a strong piece of matting or twine round the tails of each in succession, 30 VENTILATION. VERBENA. that they may hang as close together as possible without forming a cluster, until the string is about a yard long ; when they are hung up they occupy very little room, and have a good opportunity of ripening. Ventilation. Wherever, for gardening purposes, arti- ficial heat is employed, artificial ventilation, as a matter of course, must be provided. To frames upon hotbeds, and to garden pits, this ventilation may easily be given by lowering or lifting the lights. There is no necessity for entering here at length on the construction and working of racks and other simple contrivances for keeping l>pen hinged greenhouse lights, but in large glasshouses some machinery is requisite on account of the height and the greater heaviness of the glass cover- ing. The plan introduced by Mr. Messenger is that generally ap- proved. Upright or side-lights, 2 feet high, which run the entire length of the house, are made to open and shut by means of a rod of iron, which runs the whole length also. To this rod are attached shorter rods at intervals of 4 or 5 feet, with joints; the other end of the shorter rods being attached to the lights, both ends of the short rod work- ing on a joint. To one end of the long rod is fixed a long screw, working in slings made to receive it. To this screw is attached a grooved wheel, which is made to revolve by means of an endless chain, acted upon by another grooved wheel, turned by a handle placed in some convenient part of the house. By the action of the screw, the long rod is drawn backwards or for- wards, which acts upon the short rods, and opens or shuts the light to any required point. The same system of raising the lights may be applied to one or more of the lights, or to the whole, as may be necessary. The system of ventilation adopted by Mr. Messenger will be better understood by reference to the diagram, in which I?, \\ are short rods, connected with the sling A at one end, and the lights at the other. The dotted lines, D, represent the upright divisions which support the roof; E, the screw-slings, in which the screw F works ; G is a grooved wheel in which the endless chain works and turns the screw ; in fact, this is its axis. The handle II is fixed to some convenient place on the front wall, being the mover of the whole apparatus. As the rod is moved from right to left, the short rods push the lights up and admit fresh air as they are acted upon : by reversing the action of the screw, the opposite result is I obtained. The ridge-ventilation is I obtained in precisely the same man- i1 ner ; the lights under the coping being pushed out or drawn down by turning a handle attached to a long endless chain on the end wall. The results of this system, to use Mr. Messenger's words, are, I. per- fect ventilation ; 2. non-interference with the plants ; 3. no risk of broken glass by the lights falling down ; 4. keeping out rain when the lights are open. Verbe'na (*tot. ont. Verbeaa'cea). One of the most useful of bedding plants, a native of South America. The named varie- ties are infinite ; every year adds many novel- ties to the list, so for these it is best to refer the reader to the price lists of the growers. The plants seed freely, and are of easy cultivation by cuttings ; they also root rapidly by being pegged down. The fol- VERBENA. 53* VERONICA. lowing management has been recommended by P ver-v exoerienced gardener : — " I have tried many different sizes of pots and pans for verbenas. I have found nothing so useful or successful as a score of Cittinis in a 48-sized pot. The pots are VARIETIES OF THE VERBENA. filled one-third full of drainage, I inch of rough leaf mould over it ; then till to within I J inch of the top with equal parts of loam, leaf mould, or peat and sand, finishing with half an inch of sand ; insert the cuttings in the usual manner, making sure that the base of the cutting is made firm. Water level — a point of great moment in excluding the air from the part where roots are to be emitted, as well as in the future watering of the cuttings— and the work is finished. Verbenas are also best left in the store or cutting pots until February ; and, unlike calceolarias, if enough are kept over the winter for stock, spring-struck plants are best both for growth and flower. This last remark is equally applicable to pe- tunias, ageratums, lobelias, &c. Verbenas and other soft-wooded plants may also be struck in water ; but I see no benefit what- ever in the practice. I may also state, for the very few who do not know how to make a cutting, that the usual practice is to cut part of a branch level across at the base of a single leaf or pair of leaves, to remove this leaf or leaves, and place this part, the bottom or thick end of the cutting, in the soil, water, or damp moss, until it is rooted." The vervains, such as Verbena hastata, otherwise the Blue Vervain, or Wild Hyssop, and V. ojficinalis, the Common Vervain, or Holy Herb, rank among the Verbenas. The garden varieties are numerous and excellent for bedding purposes : the best of them, perhaps, are Boule de Neige, white, a scented verbena ; Crimson King, crimson with white eye ; Lady Londesborough, mauve with white stripe ; Lustrous, vivid scarlet with large white eye ; Neme- sis, veiy deep pink ; Purple King, purple. These are given as types of most of the different colours the garden plants present. Verge Cutter. See Edging Tools. Veronica, or Speedwell (not. ord, Scrophulari'nese). The evergreen shrubs of this genus, known as Veronicas or Speedwells, are, when well grown, amongst the most valu- ableof autumn-bloomingplants. Their hand- some, purple, mauve, or white spikes of flowers, which are produced in great pro- VERONICA. fusion and in succession for months, make them invaluable for conservatory and sit- ting-room decoration, and for prominent positions out of doors, where, with a dry sub-soil and somewhat sheltered situation, the plants will generally stand the winter VIBURNUM. •537 VINCA. uninjured. The miniature annual varieties Veronica Syriaca and V. alba make very pretty small beds and edgings during the summer and autumn, but in spring they are much more effective ; we therefore recom- mend their being sown in autumn for the decoration of the spring garden. One of the VINCA MINOR, OR LESSER PERIWINKLE. prettiest of the veronicas is V. chanuxdrys, otherwise known as Germander Speedwell, or God's Eye, is indigenous to this country, and is easily recognised by its bright blue blossoms. The perennial veronicas thrive in any fairly good garden soil, and are pro- pagated most readily by division of the roots or by cuttings. Viburnum (not. ord. Caprifolia'cese). A genus of hardy deciduous trees and shrubs, with white flowers sometimes slightly tinged with pink. They thrive in any soil, and the shrubby species are most useful and beautiful in shrubberies. Of these the best known is Viburnum ofeilus, also called the Guelder Rose and Snowball Tree, from its white blossoms, which grow in cymes, almost globular in form. It is easily propagated by suckers or layers, put down in the spring. The Common Way- faring Tree, V. lantana, is another shrub belonging to this genus. Victoria Regina (not. ord. Nymphoe- a'cese). A most splendid aquatic plant, requiring much space and a very warm house. Its native country is Guiana, where it was dis- covered by Sir R. Schomburgk, in 1837, who described it as a " vegetable wonder." The leaves are from 6 to 7 feet in dia- meter, salver -shaped, with a broad rim of light green above and vivid crimson below. Its flower, which rests upon the water, is in character with the leaves ; when it first opens it is white, with pink in the centre, which spreads over the whole flower as it advances in age. It is generally pink the second day after its expansion. The flower is very sweet-scented. Vin'ca («<*/. ord. Apocyna'cese). This is the botanical or scientific name of the common Periwinkle, and of its class there are many beautiful varieties, of which Vinca major elegantissima, V. major reti- culata, V. minor argentea, and V. minor aurea, are all variegated and very showy. VINCA MAJOR, OR GREATER PERIWINKLE. They grow in any soil, and look well on rock-work. Under the name Vinca also are included many choice greenhouse ever- greens, as remarkable for their shining green VINES. 538 VINKS. foliage as for their handsome circular flowers. Plants raised from seed which has been sown early in spring will be found useful for the ornamentation of flower beds and borders in warm situations. V. major and V. minor, otherwise known as the Band Plant, have blossoms of purplish blue, and are indigenous to this country. The tiower of V. minor is smaller than that of V. major, and more than this, there is a white variety of it, and double blue and double while varieties as well. V. rosea, with blossoms that are white, white with pink eye, or rose coloured, is also known as Old Maid or the Madagascar Periwinkle. All the hardy sorts flourish in ordinary soil, and are propagated by division of the roots. Vines. Difficulty of Culture in the Open Air. — It is certain that our moist and cloudy climate is not favourable to the ripening of the grape ; its cultivation in the open air, therefore, requires great care ; and in many seasons the most skilful management will fail to bring it to perfection. Nevertheless, the graceful trailing habit and beautiful foliage of the vine render it highly orna- mental on the walls of a house ; and for this it is worth cultivating, with the pros- pect of some fruit in favourable summers. Propagation by Cuttings.— -The vine is propagated by cuttings and by layering. Cuttings, made early in March or the latter end of February, may be planted about the middle of March. The cuttings must be shoots of last year, shortened to about 12 inches, or three joints each ; and if they have an inch or so of last year's wood at the bottom, it will be an advantage. They may be planted either in nursery rows until rooted, or planted at once where they are to remain, observing in the latter case to plant them in a slanting direction, and so deep that only one eye or joint is above ground, and that close to the surface. Propagation by Layers. — Vines are propa gated by layering shoots of the preceding year, or of a part of the branch, laying them about 4 or 5 inches deep and covering them with soil, leaving about three eyes above the ground ; they are also layered in large pots, either by drawing the brand? through the drainage hole and filling tht pot with soil, or by bending the branch and sinking it 4 or 5 inches in the soil and peg- ging it down there ; it may then either be grown as a potted vine or, when fully rooted, transferred to its permanent place on the wall or vine border. Vine Borders. — To make a good vine border the soil of the border should be dug out for 3 or 4 feet, a solid concrete bottom formed, with thorough drainage to carry off the water, and the border filled in again, first with bones and other animal remains, then witn iime rubbish where that is available, and the surface with good loamy soil. In this soil the vine should be planted, the roots being previously trimmed and spread out horizontally, so as to radiate in a half-circle from the crown of the stem. Under such an arrangement as this the vine comes rapidly into bearing. General Pruning and Training. — When the vine is approaching a bearing state, and the leaves have fallen, a general regulation of the shoots becomes necessary. In every part of the tree a proper supply of last year's shoots, both lateral and terminal, should be encouraged, these being the principal bearers to produce next year's fruit. All irregular and superabundant shoots should be cut out, and with them all of the former year's bearers, which are either too close to each other or which are too long for their respective places. Where it is not desir- able to cut out the branch entirely, prune it back to some eligible lateral shoot, to form a terminal or leading branch. Cut VINES. 539 VINES. out also all naked old wood. The last summer's shoots thus left win in spring project from every eye or bud young shoots, which produce the grapes the same summer The general rule is to shorten the shoots to three, four, five, or six eyes or joints in length, according to their strength, and cutting them back from half an inch to about a quarter of an inch at every eye, the strongest branches being limited to five or six joints, except where it is required to cover a vacant space on the wall. When left longer, the vines become crowded, in the following summer, with useless shoots, and the fruit is smaller in consequence. This pruning should be performed early in spring, even as early as Februaiy : in pruning at a later period, when the sap has begun to ascend, the wound is apt to bleed when the thick branches have been cut off. A second pruning should be performed about the middle of May, when the grapes are formed and the shoot has attained a length of 2 or 3 feet ; at this time pinch off" the shoot about 6 inches above the fruit and nail it to the wall in such a way that the fruit may be in contact with it. About midsummer a third pruning should take place, when all the branches should be gone over and the fruitless ones, not re- quired for next year's wood, removed. A vigorous vine will require a fourth and final pruning in August, when the long shoots from the previous stoppings must be shortened back again, and all leaves lying too much over the bunches of fruit re- moved ; taking care to prune, however, in such a manner that there is always a succes- sion of young branches advancing from the lower part of the stem properly furnished with bearers, as well as a sufficient supply of young wood to renlace the old as it be- comes unserviceable. The pruning finished, let the branches be nailed or tied neatly to the wall or trellis, laying them regularly 6 $. or 10 inches apart. Vine-pruning may be performed any time during the winter months, when the weather permits ; but the sooner the work is done the better. The young shoots of last year produce shoots themselves the ensuing summer ; and these are the fruit-bearers, which are to be trained horizontally or upright, according to the design of the tree. Summer Pruning. — In May the vines will shoot vigorously, producing, besides bearing and succession shoots, others which must be cut away, and bearing and other useful branches nailed or tied up close to the wall before they get entangled with each other ; and all weak and straggling shoots, especially those rising from the old wood, should be cleared away. Much of this summer pruning may be effected by pinching off the young shoots with the finger and thumb while they are young and tender. This should be continued during June and July. Many small shoots rise, one mostly from every eye of the same summer's main shoots laid in a month or two ago : these must be displaced, in order to admit all the air possible to the advanc- ing fruit. All new shoots whatever should now be rubbed off as they appear, except where they are required to cover the wall. In August, even these must be rubbed off, being utterly valueless even for that pur- pose. Management of Fruit. — During August the fruit itself requires attention. Where the branches are entangled, or in confusion, let them be regulated so that every branch may hang in its proper position. All the shoots that have fruit hanging on them, or which are ranging out of bounds, may be stopped, and where the grapes are too much shaded during August and September, remove a few of the leaves which intercept the light and heat. They should now have all possible aid of the sun to enrich their lavour. It will be necessary now to pro- tect them from birds, wasps, &c., by bag- VINES. 540 VINES. ging the best bunches in gauze or paper bags. In October the bunches are ripe to bursting, and ready to gather, preparatory to a new year of growth and decay. Bear in mind that success depends on well- ripened wood — a short-jointed branch, ripened under an August sun, being a fruit- ful bearer of highly flavoured fruit, and for this purpose a light porous earth is prefer- able to more tenacious clay soils. When the bunches of grapes are formed, pinch off the leading point of the growing shoot one joint above that from which the bunch proceeds. This is done to check the ten- dency of shoots to overlap one another. After the young points have been stopped, each joint below the stopping will put forth a side-shoot. These are termed lateral shoots. While this close stopping limits the extension of the tree, the size of the berry is much increased. This stopping is continued till the stoning period com- mences. This process occupies six or eight weeks, during which the growth of the fruit remains stationary, and the leading shoots may be suffered to push wherever they may. Influence of Leaves on Fruit. — During the swelling of the berry, the fruit begins to acquire flavour, and the buds plumpness and firmness. Henceforth they must have all the sunlight possible. To obtain this, all the lateral sprays and others which shade the larger leaves must be stripped away, leav- ing the larger leaves exposed to the sun ; for the fruit receives its flavour through the agency of the leaves. Spur Pruning. — Pruning varies with the fancies of the operator. Spur-pruning con- sists of carrying up one leading shoot to the whole extent of the house or wall, either at one year's growth, or two or three, leaving spurs or lateral shoots to develop themselves at regular intervals on the stem. This is usually the result of three years' growth, the cane being allowed to make a third of the length the first year, a second third the second year, and the remaining third during the third year. There will thus be five branches the first year, ten the second year, and fifteen the third year. The subsequent pruning is confined to pruning each of the laterals back to the last eye at the base of the shoot. Long-rod Pruning. — This consists in establishing a stump with three strong branches or collars, from each of which, in its turn, a shoot springs, which, by a regular system of pruning, is worked in successive lengths, the one running the whole length of the rafter, the second half the length, and the third, recently pruned back, is to pro- duce the renewal shoot. Covering Wall or House. — Where the object is to cover a wall or house, the lead- ing shoots are carried almost at random, the pruner selecting those which suit him, with- out heeding much, so long as they are short-jointed and strong, shortening back the renewal shoots, according to the space they are to occupy, from three to six or eight eyes. Sorts. — Black Cluster ripens in July, in situations where the Black Hamburg fails. Miller's Burgundy, known by its white downy leaf, is very early and hardy. White Sweetwater is an early sort, with a fine large berry, but sets badly. White Musca- dine is excellent for all purposes. In addi- tion to the above sorts, which are useful for culture out of doors, may be named Esperione, Ferdinand de Lesseps, and Leicester. For indoor planting in a cool house may be named Black Hamburg, Foster's Seedling, Buckland's White Sweet- water, Meredith's Black Alicante, and Mr. Price's Black Muscat, of which the last is a late grape. Black Hamburg ripens out of doors in fine seasons, but is very capricious in colour. White Frontignan is a fine early grape, sweet but insipid. Muscat of Alexandria VINES. VINES. requires artificial heat to ripen, but is one of the richest grapes in cultivation. West's St. Peter and the Cannon Mill grape are both favourites for house-culture. Ripening Grapes out of Doors. — Many expedients have been tried to expedite the ripening of the grape on open walls. The bunches have been put in empty flasks, run on tiles of the house roof, and trained on sloping walls ; they ripen earlier in the flask, but acquire an insipid flavour ; and sloping walls, while they catch more of the sun's rays, catch also all heavy rains. Nettings of muslin, sufficiently fine to keep out wasps and other insects in the ripening season, without intercepting the sun's rays, are, perhaps, the safest protection, unless a few movable sashes can be spared to cover the walls in cold and damp weather, and increase the radiation of heat. Keeping Grapes. — When grapes require to be kept for some considerable time, they must be shaded during bright weather. If the shoots have been stopped at one or two joints above the fruit, the laterals should be stopped back to one joint. Vines, Culture of, near Paris. Culture at Thomery, &c. — All the best grapes for the Paris market are grown on walls near that city, where their culture becomes a speciality. The culture of the Chasselas de Fontainebleau at Thomery and other places in the vicinity of Paris is the best example of open-air culture anywhere to be found ; and this variety, more generally known in England as the Royal Muscadine, is also far the best for culture in the open air in this country. Therefore an account of the Thomery system from the pen of the best grower there will meet the wants of those who wish to try grape-growing out of doors. Soil and its Management. — At Thomery the soil is of a sandy and clayey nature, and mixed with pebbles in those parts which are near the river. The soil is at all times easy to work. Near the Seine it lacks depth — so much so, indeed, that before cultivation it has to be dug and trenched, so as to remove some of the stony subsoil. Everywhere else the layer of vegetable mould measures from 4 feet 6 inches to 6 feet in thickness. This layer lies on a reddish clay of about the same thickness, and beneath the clay a broken- up stratum of building stone filled with fissures. This building stone is easily extracted. The grapes ripen a fortnight earlier in the flinty districts than in those parts in which the soil is deeper and richer. Walls. — The gardens at Thomery, taken altogether, present much the appearance of those of Montreuil-sur-Bois. There is nothing but walls in all directions, distant from each other about 40 feet, and 10 feet high. This height has only obtained during the last fifteen years, before which period they were rarely higher than 6 or 7 feet. This change has been advantageous for two reasons — first, the grape-growers have been able to increase the space re- quired for their purpose by taking posses- sion of a larger portion of air, instead of having to bring fresh ground ; and, secondly, the high walls are found to improve the appearance and quality of the grape. The walls are built of hard stone quarried in the neighbourhood, the stones being laid with mud only. The face of the wall is then covered with a mortar made of lime and sand, and is finally covered with the same material thinned to a cream. Roofing of Walls and Protecting Frames. — Every wall is topped with a roof of pan- tiles, surmounted by a row of gutter tiles. These roofs project about 10 inches, and below them are fixed at every yard iron rods, inclined slightly downwards. These supports project about 20 inches beyond tfcc edge of the tiles, affording altogether VINES. 542 VINES. a support of at least 2 feet 6 inches wide. Upon this is fixed, when occasion requires it, a strip of bituminised felt, or, where economy is necessary, a piece of thin plank. The bituminised felt is stretched on frames of wood about 10 feet in length by 18 inches in width. The felt is stretched upon these frames by means of small nails. These frames are only used when the grapes are perfectly ripe, which is gene- rally about September I5th, or when there is danger of the fruit being spoilt by heavy rains. Formerly, before these methods of shelter were employed, large quantities of grapes were continually lost through be- coming rotten witth the wet ; since their adoption, however, there is no fear of such a result. The size of the frames to be used is always dependent on the aspect and height of the walls. With walls facing the south and 10 feet high, frames containing felt at least 30 inches in width ought to be used. With a western aspect they ought to be even wider, in order to avoid all danger from the heavy rains. With the old low walls frames 24 inches wide for the south, 28 inches for the west, and 16 inches for the east were found to be quite sufficient. Preparation of Sot!, Pruning^ <5rV. — It is almost needless to give the preparation of the soil, pruning, &c., these are so simple. Nobody should plant in soil over rich, cold, or wet. The pruning may be performed in the ordinary spur fashion — the shoots being trained erect on the walls, much as they are up the roof of a vinery. Important Points. — The really important points to bear in mind are — firstly, the warmer the exposure is, the better for the grape ; secondly, that the walls are white, or nearly so — the vines get more heat on such walls than they do on dark ones, and are maintained in better health; and thirdly, that wide and efficient copings are used to permit the fruit to thoroughly ripen in autumn, and prevent its being spoiled by heavy rains. It must also be borne in mind that the higher walls are found to possess an advantage over the lower ones. Prevention of Oidium. — After selecting a proper position and soil, the most im- portant point is the sulphuring, to prevent the oidium, a disease peculiar to vines. Sulphur is the effective cure for this pest, and it should be applied directly after the first pinching of the shoots, at a tempera- ture below 96° Fahr. in the open air. If the heat is too great, the young skin of the grape is liable to become decomposed. In full sunshine at noon the fruit would be burnt up in an hour's time. Sulphuring may be carried on while the dew is falling. There is no fear, in this case, of soiling the grapes. The operation should not be deferred until the oidium has made its appearance. The second sulphuring should be performed when the grapes are about as large as a pea, or even earlier if the oidium has appeared at all. It would be preferable to sulphur while the vines are in flower. The operation is performed with sublimated sulphur, blown upon the vine with a pair of bellows specially contrived for the pur- pose. It may be effectively done without the operator standing an instant in one spot, but passing quickly along the line. In these latitudes heavy rains destroy in part the effect of the sulphur, and it is nearly always necessary to repeat the operation three or four times. If the grapes themselves are attacked, it is on them that the flower of sulphur should be spread. It has been remarked that under sunshine the oidium may be totally de- stroyed in one hour— a result that may be attributed to the speedier disengagement of sulphuric acid gas by the heat of the sun. It is even possible to save the produce of a neglected vine, provided that the end? VINERIES GROUND 543 VINERIES, GROUND. of the grape have not been blackened by the disease. Vineries, Ground. Some years ago a great deai of interest was shown in viticulture, or grape-growing, by means of long ranges of garden frames, or "ground vineries," as they were then called. The system is too good a one to be permitted to drop out of recollection, and it is noticed here. In point of fact it is merely an adaptation of the principle of protecting tender plants in winter, or ac- celerating the growth of early vegetables in of the extreme size shown in the illustra- tion— that is to say, of the size shown by the space A, B, c, D, E. A convenient width for the vinery will be 3 feet, inside measurement, timber ij inch or ij inch thick being used for the frame, which will bring the outside measurement to 3 feet 2\ inches or 3 feet 3 inches. Two slips of timber of the same thickness as the frame must then be cut out and bevelled, as shown at c, and firmly screwed together, each screw being inserted on the opposite side to that into which the last screw put in has been driven, so that the pieces of FIG. I.— SECTIONAL VIEW OF -VINERY. spring, by means of lengths of boarding in front and in the rear, closed in at the ends, and supporting garden lights, glazed or covered in with even oiled paper or oiled calico. For grape-growing the frames must be of a more solid and finished character, and for those who wish to make them — for it does not appear that they are now sup- plied by horticultural builders — the follow- j ing description is given, illustrated by a j sectional view of the structure in Fig. i. The length of the vinery having been determined — and this must be of course regulated by the length of ground at command — two ends must be constructed wood forming the ridge may be firmly held together throughout its length. Notches should be cut in the apex of each end for the reception of the ridge piece, which need not be more than 2 inches wide in its widest part — that is to say, on the outside from c to the edge F, at which the lights are hinged to it. Before the pieces that form the ridge are screwed together, mor- tises must be cut in them for the reception of tenons at the ends of strips or bars running at intervals from the ridge to the boards forming the front and back of the frame (or the sides of the frame, if the term be preferred), and to these the other ends VINERIES, GROUND. 544 VIOLET. of the bars should be firmly screwed down. The form of the connection between ridge and bar and the mortise is shown in Fig. 2. To the bottom or under side of each bar a slip of wood, 3 inches wide and J inch thick, must be screwed, as shown in section at x . This forms a rebate to the bar, and forms a support to the sides of adjacent lights when closed down, and a means of preventing the entrance of any water that may find its way in between the edges of the lights and the bar. It will be better if the rebate is grooved along its whole length, and the groove continued across the edge of the boards on which the bars rest. The bar is shown in Fig. i by B, F, the light being represented as open, so that its position and at- tachment to ridge and board may be better FIG. 2.— MODE OF FORMING AND ATTACHING STRIPS TO These bars SUPPORT SIDES OK LIGHTS may be inserted T0 RIDGE" at distances varying from 3 feet to 4 feet along the ridge, but when the length of the ground vinery is determined it will be better to divide the length into equal spaces, ap- proximating as nearly as possible to 3 feet or 4 feet, or something between them, and then to form the mortises for the bars accordingly. Strength and rigidity may be imparted to the whole structure, and the necessity for any supports for the ridge between the ends obviated, by the use of iron ties screwed to the under side of the bars from bar to bar, as shown at G. These bars may be utilised further for the support of the canes, as shown in the illustration. The frames must be con- structed to fit the spaces between the bars, and are hinged to the ridge piece as shown at F. The construction is simple, and as the whole framing is put together with screws, it may be taken to pieces at any time for removal or for putting away if not wanted, but it must be borne in mind that the screws must be well greased before insertion, otherwise their withdrawal will be anything but easy. It is better to rest the frame on a foundation of bricks, placed on a trench taken out for them in the soil. Three rows of bricks placed end to end under ends and sides will be suffi- cient, or even two, as shown in Fig. I. They must be put together so as to "break bond " — that is to say, the ends of two bricks in the top row must meet in the middle of each brick in the row below ; no mortar need be used. In a ground vinery of this kind, if it be from 20 feet to 30 feet long, four vines may be- planted, one in each corner, and the canes brought in parallel lines towards the centre ; or, if preferred, two vines may be planted in the centre of the frame, and the canes led towards the ends. In the winter, before the vines begin to grow again, these vineries may be utilised for lettuces, &c. The lights, when open, must be supported by iron stays. It is difficult to imagine a more useful kind of frame in which grape growing can be carried on and winter salading always secured, and it is a matter for wonder that they have dropped, as it were, out of use. Possibly the mention of them here may tend to their revival, espe- cially among amateur gardeners. Violet (nat. orcL Viola'cese). This flower, the emblem of the Bona- parte family, is held in the highest estima- tion for its exquisite and delicate perfume. The common violet, Viola odoiata, is a native of our own island. It is found wild, both purple and white. White violets are generally found in calcareous soils. The pansy or heartsease ( V. tricolor), with VIOLET, NEAPOLITAN. 545 VIOLET, NEAPOLITAN, its numerous varieties, is a species of viola. Violets may be grown in pots, by placing two or three runners or offsets in a pot in May, and keeping them in the frame slightly shaded from the hot sun in sum- mer. Loam and leaf mould suit them COMMON VIOLET. admirably. Russian violets, and sometimes the Neapolitan, will flower all the winter. True violets flower in March and April. There are many varieties, but it will be sufficient to describe the culture of one or two sorts, as from this the treatment of the rest may be readily gathered. Violet, Neapolitan. Summer Culture. — The Neapolitan violet may be propagated with advantage in June. When the plants have flowered for the season, remove them from the soil in which they have been grown, divide them into single crowns, cutting off all runners and selecting the finest only ; then plant them out with the trowel 9 inches apart each way, pressing the ground firmly round the roots, selecting for the purpose a rich and well-prepared piece of ground with an east aspect, where they can receive the beams of the morning sun. In such a situation they are said to escape the ravages of the red spider and other pests, and to produce larger and brighter flowers. When the plants show signs of growth, stir the soil about their roots with a small hoe, and syringe them in the evenings of dry, hot days with pure water, pinching off all runners as they appear, and keeping the bed free from weeds ; nothing more is required for their culture during the summer months. Forcing for Winter Supply in Hotbed. — When the time arrives for forcing them, prepare the material for a hotbed in the manner adopted for making a cucumber bed, either by building it up or by sink- ing it in the ground 2 feet, and treading down the dung to prevent an over-violent heat at first. Over this place the frame, and cover the bed a foot thick with pre- pared soil, consisting of the remains of an old cucumber bed with a little leaf mould added. The plants are then carefully removed, with as large a ball of earth round the roots as possible, and planted in rows close together, but not touching each other, and so arranged that the foliage may be close to the glass without touching NEAPOLITAN VIOLET. it, as it will settle an inch or two after the lights are put on. When planted, give them a copious watering, even to satura- tion, and in warm showery weather take the lights off and give them the benefit of VIOLET, NEAPOLITAN. 546 VIOLET, NEAPOLITAN. it ; this will give them a clean, healthy appearance. The lights may be kept off all night with advantage when there is no appearance of frost, and all dead, decayed, or turning leaves should be removed as soon as they appear. Plants thus treated will yield violets from November to April. Forcing in Pols. — It is immaterial, pro- vided a succession is maintained by sepa- rating the crowns as soon as they have done blooming, whether the after-culture is on the bed or in pots plunged in the soil. For pot-culture, the best compost is formed of half-turfy loam that has been turned over two or three times during summer, and half-rotten dung and leaf mould, well mixed together ; this should be ready for use by the end of September. At that time the violet plants must be raised from the bed in which they have been growing during the summer with as much earth to their roots as possible. They should then be divested of all their side-shoots or runners. The proper sized pots are 7-inch ones. One strong plant should be put in each pot ; but when they are weak two or three. The pots should be well drained with broken bones instead of potsherds, for the roots of the violets will lay hold of the bones, which give vigour to the plants and make them bloom more profusely. The pots have the advantage of being available for the window garden, or for removal into the drawing- room or hall, as well as for cut flowers. Management after Potting, and Protec- tion tinder Glass. — Having potted as many as are necessary for the season, a good supply of water should be given to settle the soil well about the roots. A sufficient number of old melon-boxes with the lights belonging to them should be arranged in a southern aspect, placing the boxes in such a manner that the lights will throw off rain quickly, and thereby prevent drip, which in winter not only rots the plants, but causes the flowers to be produced sparingly. The boxes being placed in position, a layer of old tan should be put into them 4 inches thick: in this the pots should be plunged up to their rims in rows till the boxes are filled. It will be necessary to leave 3 inches space between the pots, where the plants are large, that air may be allowed to pass freely between and keep off damp, which is apt to destroy the plant. If they are so small as not to cover the top of the pots, they may be placed close together. Temperature and Ventilation. — When the temperature is above 50°, the lights may be removed during the day, and at night they should be tilted up at the back for the admission of air. When the tem- perature is below 50°, the lights should be left on ; but even then air should be ad- mitted from behind during the daytime. When the temperature is below 40°, the admission of air should be very partial, if it be admitted at all. At no time after the plants begin to bloom should the lights be entirely removed, except for the purpose of watering or cleaning the plants, or gathering the flowers. When the weather is cold, coverings of mats should be ap- plied at night. In hard frosts, two mats should be put on, as well as litter. The earth in the pots must never be allowed to freeze if it is possible to prevent it. The coverings must be removed in fine days. In March and April as much air as possible should be given if the weather is fine. Watering, &-Y. — The pots should be examined at all times when the weather will permit. Weeds and decayed leaves must be removed, and a little water given when the soil is dry. Care must be taken to wet the leaves as little as possible. In March and April, if the plants have been properly managed, they will produce abundance of flowers, and consequently will require more moisture than winter. Where it is desired to have violets in VIOLETS, RUSSIAN. 547 VISCUM. summer and autumn, runners should be laid either in pots or on a hotbed where they are growing, in February, selecting the strongest runners, and pegging then down, with a little soil over the runner VIRGINIAN STOCK. and keeping them moist : these will be ready to plant out early in April, each with its bundle of roots, and will come in a month or six weeks earlier than the others. But they must be placed in their winter quarters early in September. Violets, Russian. To have an abundance of fine flowers in the autumn and early spring, these should be planted in beds under a wall, in a warm aspect. The soil should be light, but very highly manured, with a large quantity of sand about 4 inches underneath the top soil. The roots should be planted in rows about 3 or 4 inches apart, and well watered. Every year, in April, immediately after they have done flowering, the beds should be broken up, the soil renewed, and fresh plants put in for another year. Virginian Creeper (nat. ord. Vita'- ceae). A favourite plant for covering an ugly wall or shed. Its flowers are very insig- nificant ; but this defect is amply com- pensated for by its beautiful leaves, which assume a most brilliant scarlet colour in ; autumn. Its growth also is very rapid ; by some persons it is known as the Five- leaved Ivy. See also Ampelppsis. Virginian Stock. A pretty little annual, the seeds of wh.ca may be sown at almost any season. It is sure to grow and bloom abundantly. Its botanical name is Malcomia mdritima. It grows to the height of 6 inches ; its flowers are red and white, beautiful for margins. By constantly picking off the seed, and liberal waterings, it may be kept in flower the whole summer. Visca'ria (nat. ord. Caryophylla'cese). There are several varieties of pretty little annuals so named, suitable for borders, small beds, and single lines. Among these may be named Viscaria oculata, 9 inches, pink, dark eye ; V. o. nana coccinea, 9 inches, scarlet, dark eye ; V. Damietia, 12 inches, white, dark eye. Vis'cum (nat. ord. Lorantha'ceflo). The best known of this genus is the Mistletoe (Visctun albiuti), a curious and beautiful parasite, which, in our own country, is generally found on old cankered VISCARIA OCULATA. apple-trees, and certainly not upon the oak, with which it is traditionally asso- ciated. It grows also on the white thorn, he lime, and the sycamore ; indeed on several forest trees. (See also Mistletoe.} ALKS. See Garden Paths and Walks. Walks, Arrange- ment and Form of. All broad terraces, promenades, and walks in gardens should, if possible, be perfectly level ; and if the removal of water renders a fall necessary, it should be so slight as to be imperceptible. Gratings are hardly ever admissible on such walks ; rough stones, or rubble con- nected with underground drains, cropping out to within a few inches of the surface, being used instead for the removal of surface water. The longer and wider a walk is, the more offensive to good taste is On yonder seaward-looking tower Falls evening's red and mellow light Again, as in days of splendour Its chamber walls grow bright. And the scent of the Wall-flower fills the air As when, from the spicy east The palmer brought the perfume rare For the giver of the feast." TKORNBURY. the appearance of a grating and other irregularities of level. These views apply with double force to straight walks, and there are few gardens of any pretensions where either of these objectionable points are now to be found. However beautiful curved walks may be elsewhere — and they are exceedingly beautiful — they can never be made to harmonise with the straight lines of architecture, and therefore should not be introduced near any house which assumes the proportions of a man- sion. Generally, there will be found plenty of scope for the introduction of both straight and curved walks ; but where there is not, the former should have pre- cedence, and the curved lines be in- troduced beyond the pleasure grounds. 548 WALKS. 549 WALKS. Notwithstanding the dictum of Shenstone, who was, perhaps, a greater landscape gardener than poet, and who tells us " that when a building or other object has been once viewed from its proper point, the foot should never travel to it by the same path which FIG. i. — PROPER the eye has travelled over vE0RDGEENc°I UI" before," there are few persons who do not think a handsome seat or temple, a beautiful fountain, or ^a statue, a pleasing termina- tion to a walk of 100 to $00 yards long. Certainly the rest the seat affords, and the pleasure imparted by the other objects, will not be the less refreshing or satisfactory because we are made aware of their proximity by walking right up to them. The size and importance of the terminal objects, must, however, always correspond in magnitude and importance with the length and width of the walk, and archi- tectural objects only are suitable termini for straight paths. Curved walks may have rustic buildings, moss, root, or heath- houses, of every variety of pattern and design, simple seats, secluded grottos with suitable inscriptions, ornamental bridges of antique shape, and rustic fountains, either as embellishments or as termini to them ; for there is great truth in Shen- stone's remark, that a rural scene is never perfect without the addition of some kind of building. Generally a walk should not terminate at any particular object: it is unsatisfactory to be compelled to return by the same route as we advance. Other walks should diverge from it, to give a choice of FIG. 2.- IMPROPER routes. The proper ,. r T • line of divergence is of consequence ; Repton says, where two walks separate from each other, it is MODE OF VERGENCE. always desirable to have them diverge in different directions, as in Fig. I, rather than give the idea of recurvity, as in Fig. 2. When two walks join each other, it is generally better that they should meet at right angles, rather than leave the sharp point, as in the acute angle in Fig. 3. The great thing is to avoid a stiff uniformity, and give meaning to the curves on a walk by judiciously planting firs, limes, &c. Walks should always avoid skirting the boundary of pleasure grounds, although they may occasionally approach it ; and, as a general rule, one should never be vis-a-vis, for any great distance, to another ; and then these walks should be of different widths, according to their relative import- ance ; each walk should also maintain the same width through- out, unless it passes through rock-work, when it should be distinguished by irregu- larity of width, abrupt FIG> 3- — WALKS , , . . MEETING AT TOO bends, and capricious un- ACUTE AN ANGLE dulations ; the trim walk should then be lost in rough attempts at the mountain path, although the idea of safety must still be preserved. Grass walks are not so common as they were. On well-drained lawns the whole surface becomes a walk at pleasure, and grass walks ought never to be depended upon as necessary routes to or from any given place. When of great length, and 12 or 1 8 feet wide, however, they have a noble effect. The late Mr. Loudon recommends, where there is much traffic on grass walks, that their bottom should be formed with stone, as if for gravel ; but it will be more satisfactory to make good gravel walks for the general traffic, and reserve the grass walks and keep them closely cut for pleasant promenades '.n fine weather. WALLFLOWER. 550 WALLS OF BRICK. Wallflower (nat. ord. Crucif erse). For spring gardening the hardy peren- nials known as wallflowers (Cheirantkits C.heiri) are as indispensable as the crocus SINGLE WALLFLOWER. or the tulip, and from the delicious frag- rance of their beautiful flowers they are especial favourites, producing a splendid effect in beds or mixed borders. On account of their variety, much interest is excited in raising them from seed. The single wallflowers bear flowers vary- ing from rich yellow and yellow striped with red to a deep blood red, and even to purple. The double wallflowers are yellow and a rich velvety brown red. These do not seed and must be raised from cuttings. A double yellow wallflower trained against i wall will sometimes cover a space 4 feet in height and the same in width. Walls of Brick. Excavating and Foundation. — The posi- tion of the walls being determined, as well as the material, trenches for the reception of the foundations should be excavated. Their depth must depend upon the sub- soil, and the workmen should dig until they reach a solid homogeneous bed. The trench completed, it should be filled up with concrete, consisting of six or seven parts of coarse gravel, stones, or brick rubbish, to one part of freshly slaked lime and one part of cement. This material should be mixed thoroughly in a heap, and thrown into the trench from a plat- form of scaffold boards raised 2 or 3 feet above the level of the ground. The effect of throwing the concrete from a position a few feet above that in which it is intended to remain is to consolidate the wall, the force and weight of the descending material tending to drive the particles closer together. The trench may be filled with the concrete that is to serve as a foundation for the walls up to the surface of the ground, or it may be carried a few inches above it. This would tend to keep the wall dry at the base, for if the brickwork is below the surface of the soil, as bricks are more or less porous, they will absorb moisture from it. Thickness. — The thickness of the wall must depend on its height, and the foun- dation should be thicker by 3 or 4 inches than the wall itself, this thickness rising 5 or 6 inches above the surface-level. For a wall 6 or 7 feet high, a single brick, or 9-inch wall, will suffice ; for higher walls, it will require a brick in length and another in breadth, or 14 inches ; beyond 12 feet and up to 18, two bricks in length, DOUBLE WALLFLOWER. or 1 8 inches. Walls of these proportions are capable of supporting a lean-to green- house of corresponding height if they are WALLS OF CONCRETE. WALLS, FORM OF. properly bonded, and hot lime or good cement is used. It should be the chief aim of the gardener, if he is charged with the superintendence of the work, to see that the workmen use the proper bricks, and that they are bedded in a moderate quantity of mortar made of fresh-slaked lime or cement. Walls of Concrete. Garden walls may be built altogether of concrete, which is a manifest advan- tage in districts in which gravel is plen- tiful, but where bricks and stones are not so easily obtained. When the surface of the ground is reached the remainder of the wall above ground is formed in successive R S SUl'PORTS FOR WIRES ALONG FACE OF CONCRETE WALL. stages by concrete thrown into a space the width of the wall, and formed into the shape of a trough of the wall's thickness, by means of boards placed on either side of the wall, and sustained in a framework specially contrived for the purpose. The corners or "returns" of the walls are managed in a similar manner. Thus walls of any length may be raised to any height at comparatively little cost. It must be remembered, however, that concrete, when properly made, is so hard that it is not possible to drive nails into it as into brick- work. It is therefore desirable, and indeed necessary, to provide means for training fruit-trees and the support of climbing plants, &c., during the building of the wall. This is best done by inserting, at distances from 8 to 12 feet, vertical pieces of wood in the face of the wall along its entire length. These should be made of a dovetailed form in section, as shown in the accompanying illustration, which re- presents a horizontal section of a concrete wall thus treated. The wall, as it has been said, is formed, or moulded, by throwing concrete between boards placed along its inner and outer face — that is to say, along PQ, the inner surface, and RS, the outer surface. The uprights, as shown at A, which should be prepared some little time before they are wanted for use, and well dressed with tar, or painted, if it be preferred, are then placed at intervals along the boards that form the inner face, to which they may be temporarily attached by screws driven into them from the outer surface of the boards, in order to keep them flush with the surface of the wall. As they are keyed into the wall, by being wider behind than they are in front, it is not possible for them to be pulled out as pieces rectangular in section might be, owing to the shrinkage of the concrete. These vertical slips of wood, which may be from 2 to 3 inches in thickness, and from 3 to 4 . inches in width, will then affords means for inserting screw-eyes to carry wires along the surface of the wall, as shown in the illustration, and for the support of the apparatus that is required to strain the wires and keep them at a proper tension. Therefore, if it be in- tended to enclose a garden with concrete walls, it is necessary, before beginning to build it, to provide means for training trees, £e-., as described, as it can only be done with considerable difficulty after the wall is built, and then only in a manner which affords far less satisfactory results. Walls, Form of. We have been so long accustomed to grow peaches and nectarines on walls, WALLS, FORM OF. 552 WALLS, FORM OF. that many will still insist upon doing so ; and therefore the best description of walls, most approved methods of protection, &c., continue to be subjects of the first im- portance. No material for kitchen-garden walls can equal good red brick of medium hardness of texture. The joints should be formed as narrow as possible, of the FIG. I.— CURVED FORM FOR FOUR-AND-A-HALF- INCH WALL. best lime and sharp sand, and can either be left white, or the lime can be coloured a few shades lighter than the bricks. The bricks are better without any colouring whatever. This is not only the best- looking wall, but the plants are easier trained to it, and are probably subject to fewer alterations of temperature upon its surface than they would be upon a wall of any other substance or colour. Walls should never be less than 8 or more than 14 feet high, and may vary from 9 to 22 inches in thickness. From 10 to 12 feet is a good average height, and 14 inches in thickness will impart strength enough for that height, but when they are built in this thickness, a quasi buttress, 9 inches thick, is placed at intervals of 10 or 12 feet, to give stability to the wall. The super- structure is carried up on the foundation in the thickness of 9 inches to the level of the ground, or a few inches above it, and a coping of one or two courses laid in the ordinary way, and a third course of headers placed on the side, is used to finish the wall, giving it the appearance of being built in panels. When built without piers or buttresses, the wall is frequently built in a curved form, • as shown in Fig. I, as a 4! inch curved wall of this form will resist as much pressure as a straight wall 9 inches thick kitchen-garden walls should be straight; and they are not safe without piers, unless they are a brick and a half, or 13^ inches, thick. Copings. — All walls for fruit-trees should also be furnished with a coping of stone, slate, or some other hard, durable material, of sufficient width to project 4 inches on each side of the wall. The top of the coping should be slightly convex, and the under surface as much concave, to facili- tate the removal of water. A groove or " throating " should also be formed £ inch deep, and f inch from the out- side edge of the lower side, to inter- cept and throw off all drip. The coping should also be made in lengths as long as possible, to reduce the number of jointings. If stone is used, the joints should be formed of the best Portland cement ; if slate, a mixture of white and red lead must be used. It would also be advisable to have the copings overlap, as shown in Fig. 2, as they are compara lively useless unless waterproof. As if fine weather frost falls in nearly perpen dicular or vertical lines, a coping pro jecting over a wall will often protect th» FIG. 2. — COPING REBATED TO OVERLAP. trees on its surface ; and it will do this the more effectually if it has previously preserved them in a dry state. Permanent and temporary copings of much greater width than 4 inches are frequently used. Temporary copings of much greater widths are frequently used. The section in Fig. 3 represents a bracket for sup- porting a wide coping of slate or other material that is sometimes brought into temporary use. The top surface, A, of the bracket consists of a bar of iron 2 inches wide, on which the slabs meet. without piers. As a rule, however, all j Any length of slate may be used, but WALLS, FORM OF. 553 WALLS FOR GARDENS. the longer and stronger the slabs, the fewer the brackets required, and vice versd. An iron water trough runs along in front, to convey the water into a drain at the end. A great drawback to such copings is, that the trees are deprived of the natural rains and dews. This, how- ever, may be remedied, to some extent, by syringing. Such brackets would be invaluable for applying temporary copings of wood for a few weeks in spring and autumn. Notwithstanding all that has been written against the practice, there can be no doubt that it is desirable to afford protection to the surface of wall trees when in blos- som. No copings, wide or narrow, per- manent or temporary, will shelter them from cutting frosts driven in upon them at that time by a sharp wind. Of course, every gardener is fully aware of the great importance of thinning both wood and fruit, getting the former FIG. 3.— BRACKET FOR thoroughly matured, TEMPORARY COPING. and preserving the tree in the most robust health ; but it is difficult to see how this precludes us from protecting the blossoms in the spring. Good summer culture will doubtless secure a good show of fruit, and endow the tree with sufficient strength to bring it to maturity ; but it never has, and never can, enable the tender blossoms of peaches and apricots to withstand a frost of 2° without protection. The great merit of the covering suggested above consists in the facility wit'h which it can be removed and applied at pleasure ; for it is better not to protect a»t all than to apply a permanent covering of any de- scription. The artificial tenderness and extra liability to the attraction of insects, in consequence, would be more disastrous than the frost itself. No valid objection can, however, be urged against temporary protection, applied only in cases of abso- lute necessity, and at no other time. So particular are some gardeners upon this point that they have sallied out to place copings or coverings of some sort over the trees even at midnight when the weather has been uncertain. Walls for Gardens. Necessity for Walls. —The garden wall is as the setting to the gem ; without its inclosing fence the garden would be un- distinguishable from the neighbouring fields, and its contents exposed to the depredations of man and beast, as well as to the " pitiless pelting " of every storm. Conservative Power with regard to Warmth. — But besides the protection it affords, the properly constructed garden wall has other important conservative duties. Dr. Wells, in his interesting ex- periments on the origin of dew, found that a thermometer protected by a hand- kerchief sustained horizontally over it marked a temperature from four to six degrees higher than the corresponding instrument placed in the open ground. The wall and its coping exercise a con- servative power in preventing the radia- tion of heat in the one case which the handkerchief exercises in the other. The wall performs another equally important office; during the heat of the day it absorbs the sun's rays in a ratio pro- portioned to its aspect and inclination to the sun ; and, in common with all heated bodies, it radiates its heat in a ratio pro- portioned to the square of its distance ; so that if an object placed a foot from the wall receives i° of heat from it, at one inch it will receive heat equal to 144°. The reflection, also, of all un- WALLS FOR GARDENS. 554 WALLS FOR GARDENS. absorbed rays impinging on the surface of the wall greatly increases the tem- perature of the air in immediate contact with it. Besides this power of absorbing heat, moisture is also absorbed, both from rain and from the atmosphere, and, with the heat, is given out by radiation, tem- pering the atmosphere during the night. A wall is thus, in every sense, a source of protection, ; and it is of considerable importance that its height and form, as well as its workmanship and materials, should be well considered. External Fences. — The ha-ha fence (see Ha-ha), invented by Kent, has been con- sidered the best form of external fence, because it affords protection from with- out, and does not obstruct the view, but carries the eye uninterruptedly into the neighbouring domain. A light wire fence offers the best possible protection from game and other, wild animals. A holly or privet hedge may with advantage surmount the ha-ha on the east and west, especially if it is intended to have borders outside the garden wall either for wall-trees or vegetables. Where cir- cumstances permit, a belt of trees on the north or north-east side of the ha-ha will also afford a desirable shelter. Within this external fence the kitchen and fruit gardens usually form a separate enclosure, more or less extensive, accord- ing to the means of the proprietor ; and the wall surrounding this enclosure we have now to consider. Garden Walls. — Garden walls have long been a subject for discussion, and will probably always remain so : like everything else connected with garden- ing, they depend on local circumstances. The walls which would be suitable for a moderate-sized kitchen garden, in a flat or thickly-wooded country, would be very unsuitable for a loftier site, on the side of a hill, or in an open, undulating country ; while a plot of small extent, enclosed by walls 14 or 16 feet high, would be inad- missible both on artistic and physiological principles : on the first, it would seem as the walls of a prison ; on the second, it would literally be so, excluding air, which is essential to the growth of plants. Best Heights for WaHs. — On these grounds the best practitioners consider that for small gardens 8 feet walls are most suitable, provided the trees on them are planted so far apart as to admit of their horizontal extension. For gardens of larger size, 10 feet walls, and for an extensive garden 12, and even 14 feet, will not be too great. Nicol thinks 10 or 12 feet a height convenient for pruning, watering, and gathering the fruit, giving also ample space for the expansion of the branches of most trees ; but he adds, this should be influenced by the extent, or apparent extent, of the ground, the latter depending upon its cast : if it is a lengthened parallelogram, for instance, the ground will seem larger than it really is ; if an exact square, it will seem smaller. So, if it is a flat, it will seem smaller than if it is either undulating or sloping ; while, on an elevation, loftier walls will admit a larger amount of atmospheric air than if placed in a hollow, or even in a flat country. Where an acre of ground, in the form of a parallelogram is enclosed, on a gentle elevation, he recommends a north wall 14 feet high, and the east, west, and south walls only 10 feet : if the slope of the ground is considerable, the difference may be less. In gardens of greater extent — enclosures of four acres for instance— the walls may be higher, but in no instances more than 1 8 feet high for north wall, 15 feet for east and west walls, and 12 feet for south wall. Waltonian Case. The flower case, so called, is a portable WARD I AN CASES. 555 WARMING, THEORY OF. box intended for the propagation of different plants. It is constructed in such a manner that it may be placed in a drawing-room, or elsewhere in a dwelling-house. The general appearance is that of a 2-light box with glass sides, standing upon wooden legs ; the bottom of the box being a zinc tray or boiler containing water, which is warmed by a lamp placed underneath it. This tray or boiler is strewed evenly with silver sand about an inch thick, kept moderately damp ; and upon this sand the pots with their different cuttings are placed. " Those who possess the facili- ties for propagating on the orthodox plan," says Mr. Shirley Hibberd, " have no need for Waltonian cases. To such they would be mere toys ; but to people who want only a few hundred plants for bedding, and some scores of annuals for the borders, it is the most useful invention of this more than half-gone century, because it will do whatever is done by dung-pits, hot-water tanks, &c., on a large scale, and do it, too, in precisely the same manner ; and the only difference between a Waltonian case and a propagating-house is as to extent only." Wardian Cases. These cases are greenhouses in minia- ture ; they may be made of any shape and size, and to suit any situation, either out- side or inside windows. At first they were entirely enclosed in glass, as if hermeti- cally sealed ; but experience has proved that they are far more generally useful when proper ventilation is provided. It is obvious to remark that in smoky cities such appliances are invaluable to those who love flowers. Warming, Theory of. In no department of industrial art has more ingenuity been exercised than in applying heat, whether it be to houses or horticultural buildings. Stoves, furnaces, and boilers, endless in form and principle — hot air, hot water, and steam — have, in turn, been adopte-d, approved, and super- seded ; tubular furnaces, tubular boilers, in an endless variety of forms, have been invented, sometimes with most satisfactory, at other times with doubtful results; but while all have had, and have, their advo- cates in the gardening world, no mode of heating is so universally approved as hot water circulating in iron pipes, with bottom heat supplied from tanks heated by the same means. The principle upon which hot water circulating in pipes is applied to warming houses is, that the hot water has a ten- dency to ascend, and to fall as it cools ; the denser cold fluid displacing the more rarefied. This principle has been exten- sively applied to warming public and other large buildings ; distance from the furnace, and height above the boiler, being no obstacle to the circulation of the fluid, the boiler being placed at the basement, while a water-box is placed at the top of the building, both being hermetically sealed. A flow pipe connects and carries the hot water from the boiler to the water-box. After passing through it, the water de- scends again by the return pipe, and by its greater density displaces a like amount of hotter fluid on the surface. A supply pipe, regulated by the ordinary ball-cock, admits cold water into the water-box to replace that withdrawn by evaporation, while safety valves, placed on the boiler, guard against too great a pressure from the expansion of the water. This is the prin- ciple that is applied in heating horticultural buildings by hot water ; but as it is seldom necessary to raise the water for this pur- pose, the amount of heat required is lower. Each hundred feet of 4-inch pipe contains 544 Ib. of water, and will require 14 Ib. ot coal to raise its temperature to 1 80°. In a WASPS AND FLIES. 556 WATER. well-constructed boiler the water will lose 60° of heat hourly, and 200 cubic feet of air are heated i° per minute by every foot of 4-inch pipe ; it is easy, by cubing the contents of the building to be heated, and dividing it by 200, to calculate the quan- tity of pipe requisite to heat the building to the required temperature. When the temperature to be attained is 60°, the divisor should be 30 ; where it is to be 75° or 80°, 20 will be nearer ; making allow- ance always for loss by ventilation and the radiating power of glass, which is about one degree for every square foot and a half, and bearing in mind also that where smaller pipes are used the body of water is smaller, and, consequently, the friction greater ; for instance, in 2-inch pipes, the difference of temperature between the flow and return pipe will be four times greater than in a 4-inch pipe. The above state- ment must be regarded as approximate rather than exact, and is given here more to illustrate the theory of warming by hot water than to lay down any precise rules for heating any glasshouse by the circula- ' tion of hot water. Nothing is better or safer than this mode of warming, produced by fire placed below a properly constructed boiler. The heating power should be without the greenhouse, whether it be pro- duced by coal, gas, or oil. Many con- trivances, more or less useful, have been introduced for heating by hot water, pro- duced by the agency of coal or gas, but none are so useful and reliable as the ordinary system of stove, boiler, and pipes, in which the heating agency is fire Wasps and Flies. Winged insects of this description prove highly destructive to fruit, especially wall fruit, that is approaching maturity. Wasps will eat away the pulp under the skin and round the stone of plums, &c., until little else but skin and stone is left. The best means of protection is the simple contri- vance shown in Fig. I, which represents a bottle containing some kind of syrup, or sugar and beer mixed together, with a piece of string round its neck, from which issue other pieces, attached to hooks of wire, by which the bottle can be suspended to a branch of the tree on which the fruit is ripening. The mouth of the bottle should not be too wide, and it should possess a good shoulder, against which the insects will strike when attempting to fly upwards before getting immersed in the syrup below. As many of these traps may be placed about a tree as may be thought necessary. The same appliance may be used within doors, but for placing FIG. I. — HOTTLE TRAP FOR WASPS AND FLIES. on the shelves of greenhouses a glass vessel, shown in Fig. 2, standing on sup- ports and open at the bottom, sold at prices ranging from 6d. to is., will be found use- ful. There is an interior rim rising from the orifice underneath, which, with the external portion of the contrivance, forms a, circular trough, in which syrup can be placed. The wasps and flies crawl under the vessel and make their way inwards and upwards, but none that enter ever make their escape. This glass may be suspende^ in any convenient situation by a piece of string tied round the knot at the top. Water. A good deal of our success in growing WATERING. 557 WATERING. plants depends upon the nature of the water used for watering plants. Hard water is objectionable, and it is only rain water and water from rivers and ponds, in other words, soft water, that should be used when it is possible and practicable. The springs about Norwood defeated a friend of ours for years in his attempt to grow plants and flowers for show : it appeared to be charged with iron, and nothing did well with him until he sent for all the water he used to a pond a mile or two away. Even pump water, apparently clear, is often far too hard to do well for watering plants, but this hardness may be removed by keeping it in shallow tanks a considerable time before using. It is, however, far the best plan to contrive that every drop of rain water be saved for the use of the gardener. Every roof that offers the opportunity should supply its contribution to tubs or tanks so placed as to receive it, and nothing but rain or river water should on any account be used if it can be avoided. Plants under glass should always be watered from tubs or tanks kept at the same temperature as the plants are growing in ; therefore some vessel must always be kept in the house. Nothing does much greater mischief to plants than chilling them with water of much lower tempera- ture than the atmosphere they are in. On this account, even soft-water wells will not supply it so warm as it ought to be ; and if it must be used direct from the well, it is desirable the chill should be taken off by a little heated water. This attention to the water used is most important in forwarding the cultivation of so-called florists' flowers and plants. Watering. In watering fresh-potted plants, it is important that the whole of the soil be effectually moistened, which can only be accomplished by filling up two or three times with water. No fear need be enter- tained of over-watering : if the plants have been rightly potted, all surplus water, beyond what the soil can conveniently retain, will drain away. Irregular water- ing is frequently the cause of failure in plant-culture, even with experienced growers. A certain amount of tact is necessary in giving plants, which have been so neglected, just as much water as they should have, and no more. In water- ing, much depends on the weather, and also on the season : plants require less in winter than in summer. The proper time to water them in winter is when they are in bloom, or growing rapidly — in summer, as soon as the least dryness appears ; but a little practice will be more useful than a lengthy description. In giving air, it may be observed that all plants which are not tender, that is, all plants which are natives of temperate climes, may he exposed to the air at all times when the thermometer indicates a temperature above 40°, except in case of rough winds or heavy rains. Hardy plants may be exposed at any tem- perature above 32° ; for, although frost will not kill them, it may spoil their appearance for a time. Plants in bloom should never be kept close, or exposed to wet or wind : the flowers last longest in a soft, mild atmosphere, free from draught. Plants should never be wetted overhead in cold weather, or, rather, while they are in a cold atmosphere ; and never, except to wash off dust, should those having a soft or woolly foliage be so treated ; but some plants, as the camellia, myrtles, heaths, and others with hard leaves, may be plen- tifully syringed, or watered overhead from a fine rose, in warm weather, especially when in full growth. Plants in full growth coming into bloom always require more water than plants past their meridian and waning to decay. Therefore Chinese primroses, chrysanthe WATERING, APPLIANCES FOR. 558 WATERING, APPLIANCES FOR. mums, early flowering epacrises, camellias, heaths, early cinerarias, &c., will require much more copious supplies than late- .^S^Biiatfi«!Hi!raM[wt.iii!tj;'i«!!:iiiA. FIG. I.— SWING WATER BARROW. flowering fuchsias, geraniums, begonias, £c. Semi-stove plants, such as gesneras, gloxinias, globe amaranths, achimenes, &c., which, owing to their great beauty, it is desirable to keep in bloom throughout October in the conservatory, will now require very little water. In reference to all such, and stove plants in general subject to conservatory treatment, it is of immense importance to bear in mind that the lower the temperature in which they are placed the less water they require, and vice versd. Cold, which stimulates man's assimilating organs to the utmost, paralyses those of plants in the exact ratio of its intensity. Hence the necessity of a stinted regimen in cold weather if vegetable life is to be preserved in full vigour. These remarks are applicable to all plant struc- tures, but are particularly applicable to a house where luxuriant health should ever appear adorned with a wreath of floral beauty. Watering, Appliances for. In a large garden the labour expended in the conveyance of water is very great. This may bo reduced by the adoption of the swing water barrow shown in Fig. I, which consists of a cistern of galvanized iron, swung in a strong wrought-iron frame, furnished with wheels in front, legs in the rear, and handles, so that it can be wheeled from place to place as requisite, and the water dipped out. These water barrows are made in different sizes, to hold from 15 to 40 gallons. Garden engines, shown in Fig. 2, are similar in form to this last made machine as far as the position of the handles and wheels is con- cerned, but the top is perforated, and it is furnished at the top with a pillar, to which an outlet pipe furnished with a tap and spreader is attached, through which the water is forced by a small pump within, worked by the handle shown at the top. The garden engines are made in iron, galvanized and japanned, to hold from 12 to 30 gallons ; two sizes, holding respectively 14 and 24 FIG. 2. — GAKUEN EAG1NE. gallons, are made of oak instead of iron, a wooden tub being substituted for the cis- tern. As labour-saving contrivances, where much water is wanted at a con- siderable distance from the source of supply, the water barrows and garden engines are most useful. WATERING, APPLIANCES FOR. 559 WATERING, APPLIANCES FOR. Garden Hose. — The water-pot is in- tended for watering surfaces that may be broadly characterised as horizontal, in opposition to the perpendicular surfaces of FIG. I.— GARDEN HOSE. walls or the interior surfaces of roofs, for which the syringe is required. It is im- possible to water a perpendicular surface with a watering pot with any degree of ease and comfort to the operator ; it is true that a tree may be sprinkled by tossing the pot to and fro in upward, downward, and lateral directions, but the operation is too fatiguing to be continued for any length of time and therefore effectual. The gar- den hose, however, here comes in oppor- tunely as a means by which the surface, both of ground and of walls, may be readily watered at one and the same time, and by which, in gardens of moderate size, the trouble of carrying water from its source, whatever it may be, to the spot where it is required, is altogether obviated. The ordinary garden hose consists of vulcanised india-rubber tubing, which is usually sup- plied in 60 feet lengths, with brass union joints, tap for controlling the issue, and spreader for dispersing the water when the tap is turned on, as shown in Fig. i. The better way of using the hose is to connect it by the junction shown in the centre of the illustration to a tap fixed in a pipe attached to some cistern above the level of the ground or top of the wall it is proposed to water. The fluid will then find its way by pressure from above through the hose, and escape in a widely spread shower through the spreader when the tap is turned on. For the safe keeping of the hose when out of use, and for its easy con- veyance from one part of the garden to another, wherever it may be re- quired, hose reels of galvanised iron are supplied, as shown in Fig. 2. This consists of a frame with a cylinder, having broad plates at each end, and a handle by which the hose may be IT wound and unwound between the plates at pleasure, with wheels at one side of the bottom of the frame on which it rests when the upper end of the frame is depressed, and by which the whole machine can be wheeled about at will, the upper part of the frame acting like the handles of a wheelbarrow. Patent FIG. 2. — IRON HOSE REEL. vulcanised garden hose is supplied, with the necessary unions, taps, and spreaders, at the following prices per yard, the prices being regulated by the character of the hose, as 2, 3, or 4-ply : — WATER-POTS. ' Ins. Diaru. A inch i ,, 2-ply. is. sJd. is. 5id. is. 8d. 2S. id. s-piy. is. 42d. is. nd. 2s. 4d. 4-ply. is. gd. 2S. od. 2S. 6d. 560 WATER-POTS. Galvanised hose reels, to carr" loo and FIG. I. — UIFFEKENT FORMS OF VVATEK-POT. 2OO feet of ^-inch hose, are supplied at about i6s. and i8s. each, respectively. Water-Pots. The principle of the water-pot is the same in every case, but the form of these appliances differ slightly one from another. They are made of tinplate and zinc, and unless lightness is a desideratum those of zinc are preferable, because they are more durable than those of tinplate, though they are heavier to carry. Zinc pots are gene- rally sold unpainted, but those of tinplate are supplied in two colours, red and green, the red being the cheaper. The body of the water-pot is cylindrical in form, with a flat bottom, with three bosses or feet of metal attached to the larger and better kinds to keep the bottom from touching the ground when out of use, and partly covered with a crescent shaped, slightly domed top, the object of which is to pre- vent the escape of the water over the brim of the cylindrical body when tilted, as it would do if there were no cover. Some of the different forms are shown at A, u, c, D, in Fig. i, in which A represents the ordi- nary form, with the rose attached in the usual way ; B, a pot of the same construc- tion, with the rose reversed on the spout, so as to distribute the water over a larger area ; c, the same construction, with a long spout and a fine rose; and D, the " Paxton " pot, in which the form of the handle is altogether different, as well as that of the rose and the semi-cover. In the ordinary form of pot the handles are disposed as in Fig. 2, a diagram which is given for the purpose of clearly showing the utility of construction. The handle across the top is for conveying the water- pot from one place to another, the handle at the side for holding the pot while dis- charging its contents. In carriage the surface of the water is parallel to the bottom of the pot, but in watering the level changes and maintains a position always at right angles to the dotted line that runs from the centre of the handle at the side to the lowest point of the orifice in the body which the spout covers, and at which the spout is attached to the body. As soon as the pot is taken by the side FIG. 2. — CONSTRUCTION ( handle and the vessel is tilted to discharge its contents, the level of the water changes to the dotted line CD, and this, without further remark, shows the necessity for the double handling and the semi-cover over the top of the body. Again, as the lower line of the spout is at right angles to the HYDRANGEA. LILY OF THE VALLEY. WATER-POTS. 561 WEIGELA, OR WEIGELIA, dotted line AB, it is manifest that the water will continue to run out through the upper extremity of the spout until no water remains in the vessel except a little below the dotted line AE, which cannot well escape through the spout. In the " Pax- ton " pot the handles, as may be seen, are in one piece, and run in one direction from front to back. This arrangement is obviously more convenient for carrying by hand, when the position of the hands in carrying a pail of water or two pails is considered. Watering-pots are made in seven sizes, numbered respectively from o to 6. Those that are painted red are always cheaper than those that are painted green, because red paint is cheaper than green paint. Red watering-pots range in price, according to size, from is. h' £ 2d. to 55. 9d., " '•' and green water- ing-pots from is. 6d. to 6s. 6d. ' \Paxton " water- ing-pots are sold FIG. 3.— FLAT ROSE. at prices ranging from 35. 3d. to 95., according to size. Water-pots of gal- vanised iron, with brass screw rose, are now supplied at about the same prices, and are recommended as being stronger and far more durable. That the orifice of the spout when the rose is removed should be above the level of the top of the cylinder that forms the body is easily understood, when it is remembered that water, both in body and spout, will rise to the same level during the process of filling the pot, and that if the spout were too short it would not be possible to fill the pot. The longer the spout, the more convenient the water-pot becomes for watering plants standing to the rear of others, especially in green- houses, windows, &c. Roses are of dif- ferent shapes, the most common form being circular, as shown in A, B, and C, Fig. 2. The finer the holes in the rose, the more gentle will be the shower of drops that will be scattered from it on the plants below. When a very fine rose is required, the best material for the plate in which the holes are pierced is brass. A flat, upturned rose, as shown with the " Paxton " pot, tends to cause a wider distribution of the water, and this may also be effected by a flat rose, shown in Fig. 3, which is a sort of continuation and expansion of the spout in the same direction by two plates, con- nected by a narrow band, straight at the sides and curved and perforated in front* This kind of rose may not be readily put" chased, but it can easily be made by any tinman to suit any kind of pot, and it is not unsimilar in construction to those attached to hydropults and to garden hose. Weed-killer. This useful preparation is used in the proportion of one gallon to twenty-five gallons of water for destroying weeds on garden walks, carriage drives, stable and other yards, and for killing plantain on lawns. There is no smell with it, but care should be taken not to leave it about, whether diluted or undiluted, as it is poisonous. It is coloured to prevent mistakes, but the colour does not stain the gravel. It is said that one application will keep the places to which it is applied clear of weeds for eighteen months. It is sold in one and two gallon tins, at 2s. per gallon, including tins, but is supplied in larger quantities at lower rates. It is generally sold by chemists, and is applied with an ordinary water-pot. Weigela, or Weigelia (**at. ord. Caprifolia'cese). A genus of hardy shrubs of ornamental character, suitable for shrubberies, and 37 WELLINGTONIA. 562 WINDOW GARDENING. calculated to do well in moist and shady places. They thrive, in fact, in any ordi- nary soil, provided that it is not too dry. They are easily propagated by the suckers which are thrown out by and from the parent plant. Cuttings also, put in in March or September, will root readily. Weigela rosea, with pink and white flowers, is perhaps the best known of all the species that are included in this genus. Of the species just named there are three or four varieties, namely, W. r. nana, a dwarf form, and W. r. n. aurea, another dwarf form, with foliage of a rich yellow colour. By some the genus is called Diervilla, and W. rosea, D. rosea. Wellingto'nia (not. ord. Conif erse). The Wellingtonia or Sequoia is the most gigantic and ornamental of cone-bearing trees. It thrives in any good soil, and is uninjured by the most severe winters. In California specimens of this tree, with trunks 300 feet high and of great diameter, may be met with. It is known as Welling- tonia gigantea. Westrin'gia (nat. ord. Lobia'tse). A handsome greenhouse evergreen shrub, about 2 feet high, bearing white flowers. It requires a light rich soil, and is propa- gated by cuttings, taken from young shoots and placed in sand under a handglass. Window Gardening. Aspects for Window Plants. — Of the plants suitable for various aspects, little need be said : the difference is not so great as might be imagined ; but it may be taken as a rule that a sunny aspect is best for all flowenng plants, except in the hot summer months, when they last much longer in bloom if ke.pt in the shade. It is possible, however, to have blinds fixed to a south window, by which the plants may be lhaded, or not, at pleasure. In the culture of some plants, as the auricula, for instance, it is advisable to give them a sunny aspect from October to May, and a shady one from May to October. Other plants, as ferns, may be constantly kept in the shade, although a little sun does them no harm, but the contrary. Influence of Soil. — In the choice of soils for pot culture very much depends, but not in the way generally imagined. A few grim, sooty plants may occasionally be seen occupying a window ledge, and their appearance ascribed to the smoky atmos- phere. This is, in fact, the case to a certain extent, but not wholly so ; they are mostly potted in soil taken from the back yard, impregnated with foul gases, so that plants would not grow in it in the remotest part of the country. In towns, where proper soil can scarcely be met with, it is advisable to purchase it at some suburban nursery ; stating the sort of plant ior which it is required. Suitable Composts for Plants. — All soft- wooded plants, such as geraniums, fuchsias, cinerarias, &c., do best in a soil composed of two parts yellow loam, one very rotten dung, one leaf mould, with sand enough to make it porous ; but some plants, such as ericas, epacridoe, and azaleas, require peat ; and others, as the camellia, daphne, and corrcea, a mixture of peat and loam. Although the first-named soil will grow almost any plant, still those that require peat must have it, as no substitute will produce the same effects. It should be observed that soils ought not to be sifted, as a rule ; to do so is contrary to what is observed in nature. In borders and ground of every kind devoted to the culture of plants of every kind, small stones arm individual substances of various kinds are observed. These serve to keep the soil open, and to promote drainage and the admission of air, permeation of the surface soil by air being necessary to the healthy condition of all plants and crops. WINDOW GARDENING. 563 WINDOW GARDENING. Potting and Drainage. — In potting, adapt the pots to the size of the plants as near as possible — or rather, to what the plant is expected to be — as allowance must be made for growth of the root as well as the plant. Let the pots be perfectly clean. Effectual drainage of the pots does not consist so much in the quantity of drainage, as in the arrangement of it. A potsherd should be placed over the hole ; some pieces of pot, broken rather small, over that ; and these again covered with a layer of peat fibre or rough earth. This gives efficient drainage, and need not occupy more than an inch and a half of the pot. Hard-wooded plants should be potted rather firmly; soft-wooded should be left rather loose and free. How and When to Water. See Watering. Training and Pruning. — When training is required it should be done neatly and tastefully, using thin and pointed sticks, and very fine fibres of raffia, matting, or soft twine ; avoid anything like stiffness or formality, which is the opposite extreme to the graceful habit of plants. The same may be said as to pruning. Cut out such shoots as interfere with the symmetrical outline of the plant ; but more may be done by timely disbudding than by cutting. Management of Plant Frame for Win- d5 trailing plants. These should be potted in ordinary flower pots, and surrounded with moss in the basket, the latter being made to hook on to a support in the ceiling, so that it may be temporarily removed when the plant requires water. One of the most suitable plants for the purpose is Saxijraga sarmentosa, otherwise known as " Mother of Thousands," which does well under ordinary treatment ; it is of varie- gatecl foliage and highly ornamental. Another suitable plant is Disandra pros- trata, sometimes called Sibthorpia pros- trata, with bright yellow flowers, and pretty foliage like ground ivy. ooth these will trail 18 inches or more from the basket in very graceful festoons. Planting — Soil. — In planting a basket, if it is to be filled with ordinary soft- wooded flowering plants, that is, geraniums, verbenas, petunias, &c., the soil ought to be two-thirds loam to one of very rotten dung or leaf mould, and a little sand ; if planted with ferns or hard-wooded plants, as Myoporum parvifolium^ Monochcetum alpestre, pultenccas, and the like, the soil should be one-half turfy loam and one-half peat, using rather more sand than for the freer-growing plants. To those who are not acquainted with soils it may be worth while to observe that good loam is of a yellowish hue, and feels soft and silky to the touch ; it is usually the top spit of meadow land, while peat is obtained in places where heath grows wild. If the baskets are made of wire and lined with moss, they are sufficiently drained ; if of wood, there should be one or more holes in each, to let out surplus moisture. As to soil, those who cannot obtain it otherwise may purchase it at the nearest nursery, properly prepared for the particular kind of plants it is intended for. In filling the baskets, put some rough, lumpy soil at the bottom. This should lie hollow, so that surplus water may readily find an exit. The soil should be laid in roughly, with some broken pieces of potsherd mixed with it, when it will keep sweet for years. Plants of Trailing Habit. — Next to fuchsias, the best plants for suspended baskets are ivy-leaved geraniums ; these being all of a trailing habit, they hang down and flower freely. Petunias and verbenas, also, which are of rich and varied colours, are suitable for baskets, with Saxifraga sarmentosay of variegated foliage and pretty trailing habit, and Dis- andra prostrata, with its pretty yellow musk-like flowers. The common musk is also a very suitable plant; if a bit is planted in the centre, or some small pieces pricked about the surface, it will soon spread out and hang down the sides. Harrison's Giant Musk is also a good basket plant. The common moneywort (Lysimachia nummularia) does well and is effective ; as is also the trailing snap- dragon, or Toadflax (Linaria cymbalaria). Hard-wooded Trailers. — Among hard- wooded plants suitable for suspended baskets we may reckon Myoporum parvi- folium, a very neat trailing plant, bearing small white flowers in autumn, winter, and spring ; and Pultemea subumbellata, a neat spreading plant, flowering in spring. There are also one or two acacias, a? Acacia rotundifolia a.nd j4. ovata, which are of n WINDOW GARDENING. 565 WINDOW GARDENING. naturally pendulous habit ; and if they can be adapted to the basket, they will be very effective. Monochatum alpestre is a beautiful winter flowering plant, but will require tying down at first, and training neatly over the basket. In planting the hard-wooded plants, remember what has been said with regard to soil ; the softer plants are more easy to cultivate and safer to begin with ; but the former are more permanent, and do not so soon outgrow their room. Ferns. — Of a like permanency are ferns, which require much the same soil as the last — that is, equal parts of peat, loam, and sand, having some broken crockery mixed with it. One of the best ferns for baskets is the common polypody, or Phegopteris mil gar e ; this may be planted in nearly all moss, with a small portion of soil. Another excellent fern, and, indeed, one of the handsomest, is Asplenium flaccidum^ of a beautiful drooping habit, and also viviparous, producing young ferns all over the old fronds. Let this fern be placed in the centre of the basket ; it will require nothing more, but will show over the sides and look exceedingly beautiful, being of a bright lively green, and one of the best and handsomest ferns in cultiva- tion. Pteris serrulata and P. rotimdifolia are also good ferns for baskets, and easily grown, being of a free habit. There are several sorts of British ferns which may be grown in this way, particularly the true British maidenhair (Adiantnm Capillus Veneris), which, spreading at the roots, will soon cover the surface of the basket. Next to this may be placed Asplenium lanceolatum, which is also a spreader ; likewise A. marinum. Management. — Baskets are sometimes managed in the same way as vases, and even troughs. The plants are grown in ordinary flower pots, plunged in moss, placed in the baskets, &c., when in perfec- tion. This plan has its advantages ; for as a plant gets shabby, it can be instantly changed for another. All window gar- deners who are fortunate enough to possess a frame, pit, or small greenhouse, would do well to adopt this plan ; for a plant is not so likely to become one-sided if grown in a frame ; the one-sidedness of plants grown in windows being evidence of the advantages to be derived from the posses- sion of other means. But it does not follow that window plants must be ill looking because one-sided ; nor should their tendency that way be checked by turning them, as they are weakened there- by. Whether inside or outside a window, plants naturally turn towards the light, as every one knows who has had any practice with them. Whatever means are at com- mand, the main points in window garden- ing, as in all other plant culture, are peifect cleanliness, a free open soil and good drainage, a fair even temperatuie, and uniform moisture. Where there is a tolerably clear atmosphere, window yay- dening may be conducted without glazed coverings, but in the midst of town smoke and dust, glass cases become absolutely necessary. Window Gardening, Plants and Shrubs suitable for. To dwell singly on every genus of plants that is suited for window culture is im- practicable, and the best thing that can be done to afford the greatest amount of assistance to the window gardener in the smallest possible compass is to give a tabular view of some of the plants that are most eligible, showing at a glance a ist of the plants themselves, the aspect "or which they are best suited, the time during which they are in flower, and any irief cultural observations that may appear necessary. The letters N. , S. , E. , W. , de- note north, south, east, and west aspects. WINDOW GARDENING. 566 WINDOW GARDENING. PLANT. ASPECT. WHEN IN FLOWER. CULTURAL NOTES. Abutilon, var. " Boule de Neige" Acacia lophanta — tree S. S. Sep.— Dec. Raise from seed ; soil — loam and peat with saad. Soil— maiden loam, sand, and peat, well drained. Achimenes longiflora and alba S. June — Aug. Plant corms in Feb., in leaf mould and sand. Ageratum, any variety S. June — Sep. Soil— maiden loam, leaf mould, and sand, well drained. Alyssum saxatile S. April — June Use light, sandy soil. Useful for rock-work. Anemone coronata and hortensis S E.W. \Taj. TVTflV JPlant tubers in sandy loam in October Arabis alpina S. Feb.— April Hardy ; use common soil ; useful for window sill. Arbor vitae ( Thuja)— shrub N. ii Hardy evergreen ; moist soil ; from seed or by cuttings. Aster S. Sep.— Oct. Sow seed in March, in loam, light and rich. Arum Lily S.E.W. Jan. — April Sub-aquatic ; requires much water ; sandy peat and loam. Aubrietia Grseca S. April — May Divide roots in autumn ; use good sandy loam. Aucuba — shrub N. Common soil ; from cuttings in spring and autumn. Auricula, Alpine and show varieties Balsam N.E.W. S. Mar.— April July— Sep. Drain well, seed or offsets, in rich sandy compost. From seed; pot in rich light mould, from old hotbed. Begonia rex and other var. S.E.W. July-Sep. Shoots from tuberous plants, in leaf mould, loam, and peat. Box — shrub ; golden leaved variety N.E.W. H Division of roots and layers, in good sandy loam. Cactus, several varieties) | Loam, peat, sand, and brick rubbish, well (Rat-tailed Cactus flowers \ well) J S. June — July. \ drained ; water in summer, but not in winter ; [ offsets and cuttings. Calceolaria — shrubby and Shrub, from side shoots, in Sep. ; herb, from herb S. June — Sep. seed in May. Camellia E.W. Place in open air after flowering until October. C-zmpanula, many varieties Candytuft S.E.W. S. April— July Loam and old manure from hotbed ; drain well. From seeds sown in Jan. in compost of peat and loam. Carnations, all varieties ... S. June — Aug. Good loam enriched with old manure and some sand. Centaurea S. June — Sep. From seeds in March, in rich sandy loam. Clematis, any hardy variety Cockscomb N. S. April — Nov. July — Aug. Equal parts of peat, sand, and good loam. Seeds in Jan., in compost of leaf mould, peat, and sand. Collinsia S. July— Sep. Seeds in good loam, sown any time in spring. Convolvulus major and minor Creeping Jenny Chionodoxa Luciliae S. E.W, S. June — Aug. June — Sep. Feb.— Mar. Seeds in -rich, sandy loam, sown early in spring. Offshoots ; sandy loam and peat, well drained. Hardy dwarf bulb ; plant in autumn in common soil. Chrysanthemum, all var. Crocus, various colours N.S.E.W. S.E.W. Oct.— Dec. Feb.— Mar. From cutting in early spring ; set in good soil. Plant corms deeply in light soil in Oct. or Nov. Cyclamen Persicum Cineraria Daffodils, various Dahlia, dwarf varieties ... Daisy S.E.W. S. S.E.W. S. S.E.W. Nov.-Feb. Feb.— Apr. Feb.— May Aug.— Oct. Mar. — June Repot corms in Aug. in light, rich, peaty soil. Sow under glass in rich,lightsoil from May to Aug. Bulbs planted in light, rich soil from Oct. to Dec. Division of roots and cuttings in rich sandy loam. Plant double varieties in good rich loam. Daphne Mezereum Dielytra spectabilis E.W. S. Mar.— April Feb.— May Will grow in any good ordinary soil. Perennial, grown in compost of mould, peat, and ^ sand. Dodecatheon Meadia ... S. Apr. — May Division of roots and seeds in good loam, leaf mould, and sand. Echeveria secunda Erysimum Peroffskianum S. S.E.W. Aug. — Sep. June — Sep. Seeds or offsets in good soil ; give little water. Sow in Sep. for early blooms in following year. Erythronium (Dog's-tooth Violet) ... .. ... Euonymus or SpindleTree Ferns, any hardy or half- S. S.E.W. Feb.— April M Tuberous rooted peren. ; peaty soil, well drained. Cuttings or layers in good loam and sand, f Require compost of maiden loam, sand4 «nd hardy variety .,. .„ N.E.W. M \ old mortar, drained well WINDOW GARDENING. 567 WINDOW GARDENING. PLANT. ASPECT. WHEN IN FLOWER. CULTURAL NOTES. Forget-me-not (Myosotis) ... E.W. May — June Division of roots in autumn in sandy loam and „ Peat. Foxglovt S.E.W. June — Sep. Seeds in compost of leaf mould, loam, peat, and sand. Fuchsias, various varieties S. June— Oct. Cuttings in spring and autumn in loam and eaf mould. Gazania pavonia s. July — Aug. Side shoots in spring or Aug. in peat, sand, and loam. Genista Cananensis Gentian, various s. S.E.W. May — July July — Aug. Will do well and thrive in common loamy soil. Hardy perennials in maiden loam and sand kept moist. Geraniums, various... S. Mar.— Oct. Hardy and easily grown in leaf mould, loam, and sand. Geum coccirieum and reptans Guernsey Lily (Nerlne \ E.W. June — Aug. Hardy perennials from division of roots in spring. J Compost of equal parts of leaf mould, fine Sarniensis) ... ... / s Sep. — Oct. \ loam, and sand. Gypsophilarepens Heaths (Ericas), various ... S.E.W. E.W. July — Aug. Dec.— Mar. Dwarf trailing perennial ; grows in common soil. Cuttings in spring in sand under glass; water well. Helichrysum (Everlasting Flower) Heliotrope Hepatica Holly — tree S. S. S.E.W. N.E.W. July — Sep. June— Sep. Feb.— Mar. seeds in light sandy loam under bell-glass in Jan. "uttings in spring or autumn in light, rich soil. Plant tubers in light, sandy soil in Oct. Valuable for berries and foliage ; layers in good sandy loam. Hyacinth, various ... S.E.W. Jan.-Mar. Bulbs ; light soil in pots, or water in glasses. Hydrangea S.E.W. June— Aug. Cuttings in sandy loam ; when in flower water freely. India Rubber Plant (Ficus Cuttings in sandy peat ; grows well in sandy elastica) N.E.W. loam. Ivy, many varieties Jessamine, yellow Jonquils Lachenalias Larkspur (Delphinium) ... N. N.E.W. S.E.W. S. S.E.W. Nov.— Feb. Ftb.— May. April— May June— Aug. Grows in common soil in boxes ; require support. Cuttings in light, sandy loam under handglass. Plants from Oct. to Dec. in light, rich mould. Bulbs ; place three in pot in rich sandy loam. Perennials ; division of roots ; annuals from seed in rich loam. Lavender S.E.W. Aug. — Sep. Cuttings in light, sandy loam ; esteemed for fragrance. Laurestinus— shrub N.E.W. Nov.— Feb. Propagate by layers in good sandy loam in spring. Lilies, various kinds S.E.W. June — Aug. Hardy bulbs grown for the most part in sandy peat. Lily of the Valley Con- vallariamajalis) Linaria, or Toad Flax Lobelia N.E.W. N.S.E.W. S. Feb.— April June — Sep. Plant in clumps in maiden loam with sand. Seed or division of roots in sandy loam and peat. Cuttings in light, rich, sandy soil. London Pride (a Saxifrage} N.E.W. April — June Offsets root readily in common or sandy soil. Lupines S.E.W. June — Aug. Perennials by division of roots ; annuals from seed in March. Lycopods,or Club Mosses N.E.W. i, Plant in peat, loam, and sand, and water freely. Marigold (Calendula) Mesembryanthemum, var. S.E.W. S. July-Sep. June — Aug. Seeds in sandy loam in Feb. or March. Maiden loam, peat, and sand ; water well in hot weather. Michaelmas Daisy S.E.W. Sep.— Oct. Division of roots in sandy loam. Mignonette S.E.W. June — Aug. Seeds sown in Mar. in light sandy loam. Mimulus, or Musk, var. .. N.S.E.W. April — Sep. Plant in rich loam and peat ; water freely. Myrtle S. T ^pn F nim and neat mould • mtfintr^ in sanri tin l*»r Narcissus Nasturtium (Tropxoluni), S.E.W. Feb.— May glass in Aug. Plant from Oct. to Dec. in light rich mould. various Nertera depressa, or Bead S.E.W. July— Oct. Seeds in light sandy loam ; sow in spring. Sandy loam ; requires shade and much water aj Plant N. July — Sep. roots. Oleander (Neriuni) S. J UIJT »_>V,^. Sandy peat, and leaf mould ; requires much waier, Orange Pansy, or Heartsease S. N.E.W. May— Jnne Mar. — June From pips sown in spring in rich sandy loarr.. Seeds and cuttings in autumn in rich sandy loam WINDOW GARDENING. 568 WINDOW GARDENING. PLANT. ASPECT. WHEN IN FLOWER. CULTURAL NOTES. Pelargonium S. Mar.— Oct. Seeds or cuttings in autumn ; soil, good rich loam'. Pentstemon procerum ... Periwinkle Petunia e N.S.E.W. S. June— Aug. April — June June — Sep. Evergreen trailer ; grows in good garden mould. Division of roots or layers in loose sandy loam. Seedlings and cuttings ; soil, good loam and leaf mould. Phloxes, various Picotees and Pinks S.W. S.E.W. June— Oct. June— Aug. Division of roots ; plant in light rich soil. Pipings and layers ; new varieties by sowing seeds. Po'.emonium reptans Polyanthus E.W. S.E.W. April — May Mar. — June Hardy trailing plant ; requires good garden soil. Division of roots in Aug. in good rich loam. Primroses and Primulas, S E W. Nov. — J une Division of roots or seeds ; soil, good rich loam. Pyrethrum Ranunculus Rhododendrons, small var. S.E.W. S.E.W. N.E.W. June — Aug. April— May April— June Cuttings in light sandy loam, or from seeds in Jan. Plant tubers in well m inured and rich loamy soil. Sandy peat or sandy fibryloam with clayey loam. Roses, climbing and small Soil, two-thirds rich sandy loam, one-third leaf varieties S E.W. June — Oct. mould. Saxifrage N. S.E.W. May-July Seeds and divisions in spring ; sandy loam and leaf mould. Scabius S.E.W. June— Oct. Division of roots or seeds in good rich loam. Scarborough Li!y (l^alloia foirpurea) Scilla, or Squill S. S.E.W. Sep.— Oct. April — July Plant in sandy peat or in good, rich, light mould. From seeds ; plant bulbs in rich sandy loam. Sedum, or Stonecrop N. S.E.W. June — Aug. Divisions and cuttings ; dry sandy, loamy soil. Sempervivum, or House Divisions and cuttings ; dry sandy soil or sandy Leek E.W. E.W. June — July June — July loam. Seeds, division of roots and cuttings ; requires Silene, or Catchfly_ rich sandy loam. Snapdragon (.4 ntirrhiniuii) Snowdrop, large and small S.E.W. S.E.W. July— Oct. Jan.— Feb. Seeds or cuttings ; in dry soil or a sandy loam. Plant in Oct. or Nov. in light rich soil, loam and leaf mould. Soldanella E.W. April — Ma)' Seeds and division in spring ; plant in peat and loam. Southernwood — shrub N. ti Cuttings or division of roots in light sandy loam. Spanish Broom (Spartiuni) N. July— Aug. Seeds or cuttings in summer ; any ordinary Speedwell Spergula Spiderwort (.Tradescantia) Stock S.E.W. E.W. E.W. S.E.W. Mar.-May May— June June — Sep. J une —Aug. garden sou. Division in spring or seeds ; good garden soil. Division of roots in good, light garden soil. Division of roots in light rich mould. Seeds sown in Aug. and Sep. in sand, peat, and leaf mould. Sweet Peas S.E.W. June — Sep. Sow seeds in March using good maiden mould. Sweet Sultan Tropseolum S.E.W. S.E.W. June — Sep. Mar.-Oct. Cuttings ; or seeds in light sandy loam in spring. Seeds, division of roots, or cuttings in spring in light rich soil. Tulips ... Verbena, various colours ... S.E.W. S. April — May July— Aug. Plant bulbs in Oct. or Nov. in rich sandy loam. Seeds, divisions, layers, and cuttings in rich sandy loam. Verbena, «»-non scented ... S. June — Sep. Cuttings in spring; soil, rich, well-dressed sandy mould. Veronica incana ... S.W. May — June Division in spring ; requires good garden soil. Violas, or Violets Wallflowers N.E.W. S.E.W. Nov. — June Mar.— Sep. Seeds, divisions and cuttings in light rich soil. Seeds in light sandy loam; double varieties by cuttings. It must not be supposed that these are the only plants suitable for window gardening ; there are others but in the above it has only been sought to furnish a good representative list of plants from which selcc- Cious may be made. Window Gardening, Troughs and Boxes for. Where a window happens to be in a recess, a wooden trough, lined with lead or zinc, may be used for holding earth, in which climbing plants may be planted and WINTER CHERRY. 569 WIRE ESPALIERS. trained about the recess. For this purpose the Passion-flower is very suitable ; if allowed, after crossing the top, to hang down before the window in festoons, dis- playing its naturally graceful pendulous habit, it will form a pleasant screen for a sunny window. But it is advisable to attempt nothing in this way which cannot be carried out perfectly ; a single plant properly grown is to be preferred to the most elaborate attempts, the working out of which has not been thoroughly con- sidered ; for instance, climbing plants must be very closely watched and carefully trained, or they become so entangled as to be anything but ornamental ; they are api, also, to harbour spiders and other insects, to drop their dead leaves and flowers, and, in common with other plants, they must be watered, which is always inconvenient in a room, for the pots must be well • drained of superfluous moisture, otherwise 'the earth soddens in them. It would never 'do to let the superfluous water run over •the carpet, the pots must consequently 'have glazed saucers to receive it, and the water removed from the saucers without delay. Winter Cherry (nat. ord. Solana'cese). This is a hardy perennial, which will igrow under shade anywhere. The fruit is very pretty and much used for winter decoration ; it is largely grown for the bouquet-makers in Covent Garden. Winter Flower Garden. Spring flower gardens and flower gardens for summer and autumn are everywhere to be found ; but a winter flower garden is a luxury enjoyed by comparatively few, and yet, to a greater or less extent, it is within •reach of every possessor of a greenhouse, vinery, or orchard house, and that without interfering with the legitimate occupants of «ither. Boxes varying in depth from 6 to 9 inches, and in width corresponding with the floor space at command, should be provided, and in these hyacinths, early tulips, polyanthus, narcissus, ixias, &c., may be planted, with snowdrops, crocus, Scitta siberica, sparaxis, spring snowflakes, &c., in their front, all arranged in whatever way the fancy and taste of the cultivator may dictate. A portion of amalgamated cocoa-fibre and charcoal may with great advantage be incorporated into the soil with which these boxes are filled ; it will greatly increase the beauty and vigour of the plants. As, however, the plants named do not all flower at the same time, but yield a succession of bloom for upwards of two months, it is necessary, in order to secure an effective display, that they should be carefully grouped and classified both as to colours, height, and time of flowering. When the plants have done blooming, the boxes should be placed out of doors, that the roots may ripen. In orchard houses also, bulbs should be planted in I he borders, where a display combining effectiveness and beauty can be produced which will not readily be forgotten. Wire Espaliers. Wire fencing has long been used for the separation of the lawn proper from the surrounding park or grass lands, and for the division of fields and large extents of arable and pasture land, instead of hedges or solid fences, and it is not surprising that an adaptation of it has been made for garden use, for the purpose of training trees. The appliances required in the formation of espalier fencing and the mode of putting it up are shown in Fig. I. On the right is the terminal post, two of which are required lor each length of fencing. They are made of ~]~-iron — that is to say, of iron thus shaped in section, so that the WIRE ESPALIERS. 570 WIRE ESPALIERS. flange projecting from the centre of the flat part may, when pierced with holes, afford a convenient means for attaching the ends of the wires at starting. The terminal posts consists of an upright bar rising from a square foot, with a strut having bearing against the upright at two points, and terminating also in a square foot. This strut prevents the post from being drawn out of its upright position by the tension generally placed about 10 feet apart. Like the terminal posts, they are made in heights of 4, 5» 6, and 7 feet, and are sold at prices ranging from is. 5d. to 2s. 2d. each, if painted, and from 2s. id. to 35. gd. each if galvanised, according to height. Those who do not care to go to the expense involved in iron espalier fencing may erect terminal posts and standards of wood, dis- posing the struts in the same manner, with FIG. I. — ESPALIER IRON FENCING FOR FRUIT-TREKS. of the wire. The terminal post at the other end is provided with means for straining the wire, but in other respects its construction is the same. They are made in heights ranging from 4 to 7 feet, and are sold at prices from gs. to i6s. each if painted, or from 145. to 233. each if galvanised, according to height. The wires are further supported by intermediate standards with anchor feet, as shown, and extended bearing for the end in the earth, obtained by butting it against a flat stone placed so that its surface may form a plane at right angles to the direction of the strut. The wires may be fastened with staples to one terminal, and strained on the other terminal by eye-bolts passed through holes bored through the post, carrying nuts on the threaded ends. A more simple way of straining wires is shown in Fig. 2. In this WIRES FOR TRAINING TREES. 57i WIRES FOR TRAINING TREES. a few links of a light chain are attached to the free end of the wire, and passed through a hole in the post large enough to admit of its easy passage. The wire is then drawn as tight as it is possible to strain it, and secured from returning by a FIG. 2. — SIMPLE MODE OF STRAINING WIRE. nail or piece of stout wire passed through the link projecting beyond the surface of the post opposite to that at which the chain has entered it. Wires and Fittings for Training Trees on Walls. There are many who do not think it to be to the advantage of a trained tree that its branches should be pinned closely to the surface of the wall by nails and shreds, while others, again, do not care to have nails driven into brickwork. There is something to be said, no doubt, against both these methods of procedure, but it is improbable that either of them will ever be entirely abandoned, as they possess advan- tages as well as disadvantages. For those, however, who have a decided objection to them, a substitute can be found in the form of wires stretched horizontally along the surface of the walls from end to end, at a little distance from it. The wires may be placed at such distances apart as may be deemed suitable to the trees that are to be trained on them ; but it is not desirable that they should be closer than 6 inches, or farther apart than 12 inches, or., taking a brick wall as our guide, that they should not be closer than the width of two bricks with the intervening layer of mortar, or farther apart than four bricks. The appli- ances that are required for stretching wires over the surface of walls are simple in themselves. First of all, there is the wire itself; secondly, the holdfasts for taking the fixed end of the wire ; thirdly, the driving eyes ; and lastly, the holdfasts that are used as strainers to draw the wire tight, and to afford the means of tightening it at any time should it have become slack from any cause that may tend to stretch it or cause it to expand. In the accompanying illustration are exhibited the necessary fittings. At A the form of the ordinary holdfast is shown, which is galvanised and sold at the rate of 2s. per dozen ; and at B an improved form, also galvanised, and sold at 2s. 6d. per dozen. Each of these appliances consists of a piece of pointed iron to be driven into the wall between any two courses of bricks, and a projecting flange near the outer end, pierced with a hole to take the fixed end of the wire, which is passed through it and fastened by twisting the free end round the wire. At c a representation of the driving eyes is FITTINGS FOR WIRFNG WALLS. given. These eyes are driven into the wall at distances of about 10 feet, and serve to guide the wire in its course along the walls from end to end, and to support it, as without such means of sustaining it WIREWORMS. 572 WOODEN LABELS. at intervals a considerable length of wire would unavoidably sag or hang down in the centre, presenting a curved line instead of a straight one. These eyes are made in lengths varying from i£ inch to 6 inches, and are sold according to length, at prices ranging from 2d. to is. 6d. per dozen. At D is shown the method for fastening and straining the wires. A holdfast similar in form to A and B, but having a hole through it large enough to take a slight bolt threaded at one end with a screw instead of a pierced flange, is driven into the wall in the proper position, the wire is twisted into an eye at the end of the screw bolt, and the threaded end is passed through the hole in the hold- fast, and a nut worked on to the screw. By turning the nut with a small wrench the wire can be drawn to a sufficient degree of tightness. The terminal holdfasts are supplied— A at 2s. and B at 2s. 6d. per dozen ; the straining bolts and holdfasts at 35. 3d. per dozen ; and the wire, which is galvanised and of the best quality, at is. 9d., 2s., and 2s. 6d. per length of 100 yards, according to size. When gardens are fenced with wooden pailings, or enclosed by boarding nailed to posts and rails, it is better to adopt this mode of training trees, stretching the wire from post to post. When this is done, staples may be used instead of holdfasts and driving eyes. Wireworms. If any bed or favourite plant suffers much from wire worm, a good trap may be made by placing small potatoes with a hole in them just under the surface of the ground, at different intervals. The wireworms will, in general, prefer this to any other food, and a daily examination will serve to entrap a great many of them. Wistaria (not. ord. Leguminosa). A genus of hardy climbing deciduous plants, which grow freely and are highly ornamental on a house or wall, both for its foliage, which somewhat resembles that of the ash, and its long racemes of purple or white flowers, which in form are very like the blossoms of the laburnum. They thrive in any good garden soil, and are best pro- pagated by layers put down in June or July, which will be found to be rooted and removable the following year in the spring. The best known is Wistaria Sinensis, of which there are three or four varieties, one having double flowers, and another varie- gated foliage. Wooden Flower Sticks. Sticks should only be used when abso- lutely necessary, for they are not orna- mental. When needful, they should be concealed as much as possible and firmly fixed. Slicks painted green are the least conspicuous of those made by hand, but natural sticks cut from the hedges are more desirable. The following are the approximate rates at which made sticks are supplied per 100 according to length : — foot Plain. Painted. s. d. s. d. 1626 a o 30 3040 3646 4056 3i foot ii " 5 ,, Plain. Painted. s. d. s. d. 5676 6680 7696 » 6 10 6 Wooden Labels, &c., Preserva- tion of. The following recipe for the preservation of wooden labels, number sticks, &c., is taken from Gardening Illustrated : — Thoroughly soak the pieces of wood of which they are made in a strong solution of sulphate of iron ; then lay them, after they are dry, in lime water. This causes a formation of sulphate of lime (a very insoluble salt) in the wood, and the rapid destruction of the labels by the weather is thus prevented. Bast, mats, twine, and other substances used in tying or covering WOODEN TALLIES. 573 WORMS IN LAWNS. up trees and plants, when treated in the same manner, are similarly preserved. Wooden Tallies. These are useful for placing by plants in borders, pots, &c., and for suspending to trees of different sorts in order to show their names and to distinguish those of a kindred nature one from the other. They are very cheap if bought in quantities. The following are the approximate rates per 100 at which they are sold according to length : 4 inches s. d. 08 8 inches 0 10 9 » 1 O 12 With holes for suspending : — *. d. jj inches i o 5 inches *. d. 2 O 3 6 4 o 5 o I. d. i 6 Woodlice. These insects are very destructive, especially to tender seedlings in a frame. They are so numerous in general that they clear a pot in a single night as soon as the seed-leaves appear. Indeed where wood lice abound many persons are often under the impression that the seed has never come up at all, for it requires a magnifying glass to enable us to detect the minute stalks when deprived of their leaves. Woodlice congregate at the bottoms of pots in a hotbed and round the sides of the frame. They should be searched for every morning and destroyed by having boiling hot water poured upon them. Worms, Effect of, on Plants in Pots. While in the open ground worms are effic'.ent drainers enough, one of the great results of their presence in pots is to render all drainage impossible. They first grind down the soil into small particles, and then work this finely comminuted earth down among the drainage. This peculiar process blocks up the outlet for the exit of water, and speedily converts the wet composts into sheer mud. Not only the mechanical texture, but the chemical composition of soils thus water- logged and worm -worked, become so changed as to totally unfit them for the sustentation of plant life. The roots are gorged with crude food, and kept in a dirty bath of muddy water. No wonder, then, at yellow leaves, drooping flower buds, and sickly hues, ending in death. Worms in Lawns, to Destroy. Take newly slaked lime, in the propor- tion of IO Ib. of lime to about 30 gallons of water. Stir it often, and then let it stand to settle. Draw off this water clear from the sediment, and with a rose water- irg-pot spread it freely over the lawn. The worms will come to the surface, and may be swept up with a broom. This operation is most effectual if performed in damp weather, as the worms then lie nearer the surface. It may be repeated till the worms disappear. It should be borne in mind, however, that worms have their use, because they consume decaying vegetable matter mingled with soil, and eject the soil at the surface of the ground in lumps or small heaps known as wormcasts. These wormcasts, being composed of earth, make, as it were, a good top dressing for lawns, &c., and renovate the soil on the surface. Air and rain are enabled to penetrate the ground through the worm holes. Furthe-r, the presence of worms in heavy soil tends to | lighten it by the means explained above. Of Xeranthemum's flowers everlasting, Weave a chaplet of pale immortelles ; And o'er it some fragrance be casting, By aid of tall Yucca's white bells. To the garland bright colour be lending By Zinnia's gay blooms ; and this said, Flora's Alphabet's brought to an ending, By this jingla in rhyme ex w' head.' ANON. fANTHORHI'ZA (nat. ord. Ranuncula'cese). An American shrub, Xanthorhiza apifolia, so called from its yellow root. It is perfectly hardy, and will grow in any common garden soil, and may be increased by suckers. It bears racemes of small dark purple flowers. Xeran'themum (nat. ord. com- pos'itse). ,* A showy class of Everlastings, better known as "Immortelles" ; the flowers of which, when gathered young, are valu- able for winter bouquets. They require a rich soil. The best known are Xeranthe- XERANTHEMUM ANNUUM — PURPLE AND WHITE. mum annuum, an annual bearing purple 574 YEWS. 575 ZIERIA. flowers, flowers. chryswn. and X. inape.'iuni, with white They are all hardy. See Heli- Yews. Trees of the Taxus genus, being gene- YUCCA FILAMENTOSA. rally of the darkest shades of green, may be planted singly for contrast, or in masses to give an effect of shade. They are all very hardy, but with the exception of Taxus baccata,) the common yew, they do not attain much size. T. Canadensis is of a pale colour ; T, b. variegala and T, b. foliis-variegatis have a fine golden tinge. Yuc'ca (nat. ord. Lilia'ceae). Yuccas are popularly known as Adam's Needle. They are perfectly hardy plants, of quaint appearance, forming striking objects in garden scenery. Yucca gloriosa recurvifolia has graceful drooping leaves, and forms a most desirable plant for vases, or for planting as a specimen on lawns or in the parterre. Yuccas grow best in a dry but rich sandy loam, and will succeed well if planted on rock-work, to which they impart quite a tropical aspect. They are propagated by division of the root, or by pieces of the root placed in sandy soil in heat. K filamentosa, or Silk Grass, and Y.f.flaccida are desirable varieties. The flowers arj white, tinged with green. Zausehne'ria (nat. ord. Onagra'rieae). A very handsome Californian perennial plant, in bloom from June to October, with a profusion of beautiful tube-shaped flowers. It succeeds best in dry gravelly soil, and is most easily propagated by division of the roots or by seeds, sown in heat in spring. Ze'a (nat. ord. Gramin'ese). This is the Indian corn, a very ornamen- tal annual plant. It should be raised in a hotbed early in spring and planted out in May or June. There are numerous varie- ties, but Zea Mayo, or Maize, is the best known. It seldom brings its fruit to per- fection in this country. It is the " Mealies" of Southern Africa. Zie'ria (nat. ord. Ruta'cese). A remarkably pretty greenhouse ever- green shrub. It succeeds best in a mixture ZAUSCHNERIA CALIFORNIA. of sandy loam and peat, and is propagated by cuttings placed in sand and struck in heat. There are not many species, and it ZINGIBER. 576 ZOSTERA. is only necessary to name one of them, namely-, Zieria Smithn> with white flowers, ZEA OR MAIZE — STRIPED-LEAF VARIETY. also called Sandfly Bush and Tasmanian Stinkweed. Zhl'giber (nat. ord. Scitamin'ese). The Ginger plants, of which there are several species. All are with us stove plants. It is the root or rhizome which is made use of for ginger. The flowers are not remarkable. Zin'nia (nat. ord. Compos' itse). A grand genus of autumn - flowering half-hardy annuals, combining the greatest richness and diversity of colour with un- equalled profusion and duration of bloom. The best known are Zinnia elegans with flowers of various colours, white, buff', scarlet, rose, lilac, bronze, violet, and crimson, and its varieties Z. coccinea, scarlet ; Z. flow-plena, with double flowers ; and Z. violacea, purplish-violet. The seed June ; they should be planted in the richest soil and the warmest situation possible. For flower beds, borders, and conservatory decoration, the zinnia is alike valuable. Ziz'ypllTlS (nat. ord. Rham'nese). Pretty fruit-bearing greenhouse evergreen shrubs, with extremely graceful foliage. They succeed best in sandy peat and loam, and are propagated by cuttings of ripened I wood struck under glass, or by root buds in pieces of the root. Zizyplms Jujuba, or ( the Jujube-tree, is one of the best-known | greenhouse species, and Z. vulgaris of the hardy shrubs. Z. spina Christi may be named, as it is supposed to have been the shrub from whose branches the crown of thorns that was placed on our Saviour's head when He was crucified was made. Zoste'ra (nat. ord. Naiada'cese). A marine grass, Zostera marina; also known as Wrack Grass, which is very useful DOUBLE ZINNIA. aquaria. It is found the embouchures of tidal rivers and estuaries, should be sown early in March, so .as to and may be recognised by its ribbed-like have strong stocky plants to put out in j appearance. THE MONTHLY CALENDARS OF GARDEN WORK THROUGHOUT THE YEAR. INDEX TO CONTENTS OF MONTHLY CALENDARS. JAN FEBiMARjAPR. MAY'JUKE JULY AUG SEPT OCT NOV DEC ASPECT AND CHARACTER OF MONTH T x 3O 46 58 73 go IO2 112 T21 t 146 I 39 46 66 74 wy 89 IO2 112 — J 124 146 2 15 3° 46 58 74 89 103 "3 125 135 147 „ „ FRUIT GARDEN AND ORCHARD ... 4 »7 32 47 62 77 91 104 "5 126! 137 148 GLASSHOUSES FOR FRUIT • . iq 07 J.Q 63 81 Qg IO7' TTT 1 27 1 1 3 3 ! T >< a GREENHOUSE ........... y 2O o/ t,g 65 98 106 ~"/ IIQ 6 22 ou 34 67 70 93 1 08 I2G ! TOO Id! 30 4 TCT /y * J* „ , HOTHOUSE 26 • 40 54 69 85 96 106 121 KITCHEN GARDEV ii 26 4* 55 86 99 ,,0 122 132! 143 152 „ „ ORCHARD HOUSE — 29 — 58 73 88 102 lit' 133 133 H5 — t SH ' u OHFXY I J. -Q 45 eg — * 88 I O2 112 __ X^o T .j e T JAN FEB MAR o° APR. MAY JUNB JULY AUG SEPT OCT •T^ NOV DEC THE MONTHLY CALENDARS OF GARDEN WORK THROUGHOUT THE YEAR. JANUARY. Aspect and Character of Month. January is the first month of our civil year, the second of winter, and the third of the gardener's year, which commences with November. The average temperature is 39° during the day and 32° during the night, and the mean temperature, during an average of many years, does not fall below the freezing-point ; severe frosts, and frosts of long continuance, occurring in January, are therefore exceptional occur- rences in our climate. In the garden Janu- ary is the last month of preparation for spring and summer, for the processes of vegetation will soon be in full progress. Work that must be done. — The gardener's attention must now be concentrated on the future, rather than diverted by the past. All arrears of labour due to the past year must at once be discharged. Nothing tends more to mar the success of gardening operations than dragging through the necessary work three weeks or a month behind the time proper for its performance. The peculiar fickleness of our climate renders gardening precarious and difficult enough with every advantage of judgment and foresight It will be well, therefore, to bear in mind that the work can only be done "weather permitting." For instance, it is impossible to dig, plant, or sow when the frost has set its strong seal upon the earth. It is bad practice to dig in snow, and worse than useless to attempt anything on the surface of the ground when an excess of moisture has converted it into mud. It may thus occasionally happen that a part or the whole of the work pre- scribed for one month may have to be deferred to another, and thus a double portion fall upon one or any of the winter or spring months. In such cases extra labour must be employed, or diverted from other departments, until the whole of the work indicated is completed. January.— Conservatory, Work in. Condition of Plants. — Everything here should now look fresh and healthy. Acacias should be advancing into bloom. Camellias are either out or advancing rapidly into bloom : to promote this, see that they do not want for water. If there is a forcing house in the establishment, orchids, hya- cinths, arums, tulips, and other bulbs transferred thither from it, with heaths and epacrises from the greenhouse, will render the conservatory both gay and fragrant ; and if only a frame is available, cinerarias, violets, and mignonette will afford a good display. Management. — To preserve flowers in bloom in the conservatory for the longest possible period is now the principle object in view. To do this, keep the atmosphere moist and genial, but not wet. Water the plants regularly when necessary, especially the bulbs, giving as much water, of the same temperature as the house, as they can assimilate. Keep the temperature about 40°, rising a few degrees from sun heat during the day, ventilating daily, if only JANUARY. 578 JANUARY. fora short time, but avoiding cold draughts of air. January.— Flowei Garden, Work in. Alterations of Borders^ Wai**, <5rY.— All alterations in the form of flower beds or the direction of walks, if not already carried out in the autumn, may still be made, and all vacant ground dug over and thrown up into ridges. The surface of old walks may be renewed by skimming off the surface to a depth ranging from I to 3 inches, accord- ing to circumstances, with the spade, and turning it over so as to bring the part that had previously been below uppermost, to form a new and fresh surface, which must then be raked even and rolled. Annuals and all seedlings. — Autumn- sown annuals in the reserve garden in the open ground should be protected by hav- ing some boughs stuck among them, or by being covered with mats, canvas, &c. Beds intended foi the main sowing of hardy annuals should be prepared for this pur- pose. Pans, boxer ">r pots of any tender or choice kinds Ox seedlings in pits or frames, should be covered up in event of frost, either with mats, long litter, or some similar material, which should be laid over them to the depth of, say, 9 inches, and close round the sides of the structure. Auriculas, Polyanthuses, <5rY. — These plants, if protected by frames, should be examined from time to time, and watered with care. Early blooms must be removed from polyanthuses. Bedding Plants^ Manuring for. — To grow bedding plants in perfection, the beds should have a dressing of manure annually, or a heavier application every second year. It would be almost as reason- able to attempt to grow two crops of cabbages in succession without enriching the soil as two crops of bedding plants. Many of them exhaust the soil more than I any crop whatever ; and to grow them rapidly, and in perfection, the beds must be liberally manured. Borders, Pointing Surface of. — Next in importance to draining, trenching, and manuring, and often of greater moment than any or all of them put together, is the frequent digging, forking, and scarifying of the surface ; and from December to April are the months specially adapted for these operations. It must be remembered that deep digging is not intended, but merely the stirring of the surface soil with a fork or hoe. Working the surface of the ground with a fork is the operation which has been already mentioned as "pointing," and is so called because the stirring of the ground is effected by the introduction of the points of the fork. Pointing should not be carried beyond a depth of 2, or at the utmost 3 inches. The object of it is to loosen and break up the surface and admit the air. Deep digging when plants are growing is simply ruination to them, especially to those whose roots seek the surface. Borders which are stocked with herbaceous plants should only have the surface well broken. Borders, Rough Digging. — The moment that flower beds are cleared of their sum- mer occupants, they should be dug up as roughly as possible. But rough digging, while it can never present a smooth, may always exhibit an even surface, and, in that case, it is not unsightly. Besides, the objections against it would generally be silenced if its obvious importance were understood. It would be difficult to say whether the mechanical or chemical in- fluence in enriching the quality of the soil is the most important. Certainly, both are of the highest value, and their influence will be powerful, or the reverse, in exact ratio to the quantity of fresh surface ex posed to atmospheric influence. Hence the importance of rough digging or forking over ground in frosty weather; resulting in JANUARY. 579 JANUARY. that finely pulverised, mellow, genial soil in spring, in which plants delight to grow. B order $1 Trenching. — All new flower gardens must, of necessity, be trenched, and the same treatment may be prescribed for old ones. No soil, however rich in ^quality, will go on producing flowers in perfection for years, with an annual digging in autumn or spring and frequent hoeings and pointings in summer : this practice •soon exhausts the best soil. Nothing bene- fits old gardens more than the entire re- moval of the old plants, trenching up the soil to the depth of three feet, liberally j manuring it, and replanting. Gardens, or rather beds and borders in which the bed- ding-out system is put in force, should be trenched every fourth or sixth year. The plants would then be much less at the mercy of the extremes of drought or wet, .and have a more copious supply of suitable food. Bulbs, Hardy. — During this month plant crocuses and any other hardy bulbs for succession, the main crops having been planted in October or November. The •usual mode of planting crocuses is to set them in the soil in patches, varying from half a dozen to a dozen. They are also highly effective in rows or ribbons of different colours. Carnations in Pots. — Especial care -should be taken to protect carnations in pots from heavy rains, hard frosts, cold winds, or snow, by means of frames, hand- lights, &c. The carnation is perfectly hardy, though liable to injury from deep planting and excessive moisture, and can -stand the winter in the open ground, but by protecting the choicer sorts in bad weather they are preserved in strong con- dition for blooming in good order at the right time. Those in frames should be -examined frequently, and watered with care if necessary. Pinks and carnations in -beds should also be examined, and it any are heaved up by the frost they should be pressed firmly down in the soil. Earth, Turf, &c., Transfer of.— Earth may be carried from one part of the garden to another, turf brought in, and manure wheeled to its destination, when the surface of the ground is hardened by frost ; but when the frost is over and the ground begins to " give," or, in other words, to soften, and lose its rigidity, boards should be laid down to prevent the wheel of the barrow from making deep ruts in the paths. Boards should also be laid down on lawns if it be found necessary to take anything over them in the wheelbarrow. Grass Lawns, Walks, and Verges. — These should now be kept neat and trim by frequent rollings, which should be per- formed in open dry weather, when the surface is not too moist ; and by equally frequent mowings, which should be done the first thing in the morning, when the dew is on the grass. Turi may be laid wherever wanted, provided that the weather is favourable, and grass plots in a dilapidated condition may be relaid or patched. The best turf for gardens is to be met with on commons or downs where sheep are pastured. A fine dry day should always be selected for cutting turf lor lawns. Hardy Shrubs, Layering.— Provided the weather is open, layers may be made of the young branches and shoots of hardy shrubs, to raise a supply of new plants. The branches should be laid into the soil 3 or 4 inches deep, and be tightly pegged down, the top in each case being left out of the soil and brought as far as possible into an upright position. These layers will be well rooted by the following autumn, and fit for transplanting. Herbaceous Plants. — It will be found that many kinds of herbaceous plants, and such flowers as aubrietias, arabis, alyssum, carnations, daisies, forget-me-nots or myo- JANUARY. JANUARY. sotis, pansies, pinks, primulas, phloxes, polyanthuses, violets, &c., and growing bulbj planted in the autumn, will be some- what raised out of the ground or above the ground level by the action of the frost. These must be firmly pressed down into place and a little fine mould drawn round them. Hoe or point the surface of the soil between the flowers when it is dry enough. Litter ; Removal of. — Nothing, perhaps, is more objectionable, even in the winter months, than an untidy garden. Leaves and all litter of dead and dying plants should be collected and carried away, and neatness and order should everywhere be apparent. Ranunculuses, <:., Scions for. — When prun- ing, save all scions of vines and other trees, which may be required for grafting. Put them in by the heels in a sheltered and shady place. Success in future operations with the scions mainly consists in keeping them dormant, as, if they can be kept in a state of quiescence until they are wanted, the better are the chances that they will grow. Old Fruit Trees, Stems of. — These should now be scrubbed with strong brine, and dressed after scrubbing with paraffin oil, in the proportion of I part of the oil to 100 parts of water, in order to remove the dead bark, and to clear the trees of ail insect life that may be lurking in the cracks of the bark. Some recommend a com- pound of lime, cow-dung, and soot, mixed up to the consistency of thick paint, and applied to the stems and principal branches with a brush. This preparation is certainly detrimental to insect life, but it is by no means attractive in appearance. Planting. — Planting in this month is not safe — less safe, perhaps, than in February. For preference, November is the best month for planting fruit-trees, and Decem- ber the second best, and before Christmas comes all planting should be done. If it is absolutely necessary to do any work of this kind in January, open weather should be selected for the operation, and no longer time than is absolutely necessary for the transfer of the trees from one place to another should be allowed to elapse be- tween the taking up and the replanting, so that the roots may not be long exposed to the chilly air and cutting wind, which are most injurious to them, although they are in no way detrimental to the parts that are always above ground. When the work of planting is complete, and the trees have been staked, cover the ground over the roots with a thick mulching of warm litter. Priming. — The pruning of all the hardier kinds of trees, whether standards, espaliers, wall trees, or pyramids, should be carried out during January. Among the hardier trees are included all except those of a more tender character mentioned in detail below. Raspberries. — Fresh plantations of rasp- berries may now be made, young stools being chosen that are furnished with several strong canes or shoots of last summer's growth. These may always be obtained in sufficient quantity from an old plantation, as an abundance of young growth is always sent up by the old stools. Preference should be given to the stools which have good fibrous roots : those which have naked and woody roots should be rejected. In planting, cut off the weak tops of the shoots and any long straggling fibres of the roots, and plant in trenches taken out with the spade in rows, about 4 feet apart from row to row, and 2 or 3 feet apart in each row. Strawberries. — Point the surface of the ground between the rows of plants with a light fork, and then, if this has not been done already, give the strawberries a plentiful mulching with long litter, which will form a clean and suitable bed for the fruit to rest on while ripening, and keep it from coming into contact with the ground or getting spattered with mud during a heavy fall of rain. The leaves of straw- berries should not be cut off, and digging between the rows must be avoided, as it injures the roots. Vines. — Grape vines in the open air should be pruned as soon as the leaf falls, and the work, if not done already, should JANUARY. 582 JANUARY. be completed this month. The reason why pruning cf vines should not be too long deferred is that as soon as the sap begins to rise the vine bleeds most profusely from its wounds, and this causes a useless, and in some cases, fatal waste of vital force. The young shoots of last summer are the only bearing wood on the vine. If the pruning is done on the spur system, one bud, or at the utmost two, should be left at the base of the shoot, and all the rest should be cut away. If the shoots are laid in to cover wall space, the young branches and shoots should be trained very carefully at a dis- tance of 10 to 12 inches apart, either hori- zontally, obliquely, or vertically, as the space of wall at command may allow. Therefore, in pruning, care must be taken to leave a sufficient supply of last year's shoots, that every part may be abundantly furnished with them. Work that May and Must be Done. — In January, planting may be done, but prun- ing ought to be done, or, to speak in even stronger terms, must be done. It is better, in fact, to prune now than at an earlier period, because pruning, when deferred till January, retards flowering, and the later the flowering the more certain is the crop. January.— Hotbeds, Frames, &c., Work in. Beans, Kidney. — These beans may be grown on a hotbed, but they are better raised in pots, or they are apt to run all to haulm and leaf. In an ordinary hotbed, as if made for cucumbers, place as many 6-inch pots as will stand 15 inches apart. These pots being filled with good loamy soil, in each plant, triangularly, three beans of any sort, of dwarf habit. As they grow, give them regular waterings, and do not let the heat fall below 60°. Kidney beans are very susceptible of frost, and will re- quire careful protection from it, in common with all forcing plants. Nothing can be better for covering the lights than hurdles made of lath and straw. If sown in Janu- ary or February, they will bear in April or May. They sometimes require supporting with sticks. Carrots, Early. — These may be grown as directed for radishes on a hotbed 2 or 3 feet high, covered with about 10 inches of soil, which should be perfectly sweet, and free from the larvae of insects ; a bushel of pounded chalk mixed with it will be advantageous. The early horn variety is the best for early culture ; but, as the seed is very light, and hangs together, it requires for the purpose of separating it, to be rub- bed up in a peek or so of tolerably dry soil, which will help to bury it when sown, using the rake to press it in. When up, and sufficiently large to handle, the plants should be thinned to 2 inches apart, and plenty of air given, or they will be drawn all to top. Cucumbers. — These may be had in hot- beds, or under glass in properly heated j structures, at any time of year, and all the year round. The main thing to be borne in mind is that when cucumbers are wanted in winter, three months are required from the time of planting the seed to that of cut- ting the fruit, ripe and ready for table. Therefore, if cucumbers are wanted in the middle of January, the hotbed should have been made and in a proper condition for the reception of the seed by the middle of October. If they are wanted in March, the bed must be ready, and the seed planted, in December, and so on. Dahlias. — Place scarce varieties of dahlias in heat for the purpose of securing plenty of cuttings. Proceed with potting off singly all cuttings in store pots, using 48-sized pots for geraniums, and large 60 for verbenas, &c., where abundance of space is available. Where this is not the case, the potting off must be deferred till another month. JANUARY. JANUARY. Melons. — The rules to be observed for the culture of melons are precisely the same as those for growing cucumbers. Ventila- tion is necessary for growing plants of both kinds, in order to prevent too great humid- ity within the frame or pit, and consequent injury to the plants ; but in allowing this to escape, cold winds and draughts must not be permitted to find their way in ; the best way to prevent this is to stretch some protecting material, such as tiffany, scrim canvas, &c., over the opening. Melons, <5rV., Protection for. — In cover- ing the lights during frosts or rough winds, it is advisable to avoid letting the mats or other material used for protection hang over the sides, as there is often danger of conducting rank steam from the linings into the frame. Straw hurdles which exactly fit the lights are better than mats. The covering should be used just sufficiently to protect the plants from frost or cutting winds, without keeping them dark and j close. Mustard and Cress. — This small salading j is usually sown round the edges of carrots or potatoes, or, indeed, in any such space that offers ; but, where a succession is re- quired, it is worth while to give it a frame to itself. On a one-light bed 2 feet high let the seed be sown, and, when that is up, sow another light ; when the first is all cut, pare off the soil containing the roots, re- place it with new soil, and sow again, either in drills or scattered evenly, but thickly, over the surface and pressed into the soil. Pits and Frames, Management of. — Such plants as pinks, carnations, picotees, auri- culas, polyanthuses, &c., may be kept through the winter in pits and frames with- out any artificial heat. Calceolarias also — that is to say, herbaceous calceolarias re- quired for bedding out — need no artificial heat. Frost must be kept out of the pits or frames in which cinerarias, pelar- goniums, and verbenas are wintered by putting a lining of long farmyard dung against the sides and covering over the glazed lights with mats. Air should be admitted freely between 10 a.m. and l p.m. when it is not freezing. All watering should be done early in the day, and care should be taken not to wet the leaves of the plants when watering. Potatoes, Early, in Frame. — When po- tatoes are grown in a frame, the treatment is much the same as before ; but some grow them very successfully in this manner : — The frame being placed on a level piece of ground, the soil within is dug out to the depth of 2 feet, and banked round the out- side of the frame.. The pit thus formed is then filled with prepared dung ; on this 3 inches of soil is placed, then the potatoes, then 6 inches more soil. The potatoes, when planted, should be just starting into growth, but the shoots should never be more than half an inch from the tuber, or they do not grow so strong. It is advis- able to pick off some of the shoots ; three on each tuber is sufficient. Leaves, tan, or a small quantity of hot farmyard manure will give sufficient heat for potatoes. When the heat begins to come through, place light soil to the depth of 12 or 14 inches on the heating material, and plant the potatoes immediately. Give air when- ever the weather permits, and take care that the plants are not drawn up when young, as this renders them weak and un- healthy. Do not let the temperature of the bed fall below 40°. Beds prepared in the same way will do well for radishes and carrots, Potatoes, Early, in Melon Pit. — For growing very early potatoes, nothing is more suitable than a broad, roomy melon pit. The potatoes will be fit for use about the time for planting out the melons. About the beginning of January, let some middling-sized tubers be laid in a warm JANUARY. 584 JANUARY. and moderately dry place, well exposed to the light : here they will make short plump shoots by the time the bed is ready. Pre- pare a quantity of dung sufficient to make a bed 3 feet 6 inches in depth. By the end of the month the bed will be ready ; then lay on 3 inches of soil, and place the pota- toes 15 inches apart, covering them with 6 inches more of soil. Some seed of the scarlet short-top radish may be scattered over the surface. As these begin to grow, give abundance of fresh air in mild weather, so that neither potatoes nor radishes be drawn up ; and as they come up, remove the radishes from immediately about the crowns of the potatoes; earthing-up the latter will not be required. The radishes will be ready to draw in March, the potatoes early in May. Radishes in Frame. — To grow radishes in a separate frame, make up a hotbed 2 feet in height, on which place a two-light frame. Over the hotbed place about 10 inches of loamy soil, on which the radishes are sown broadcast or in rows, the former being preferred ; press the seed in with the back of the rake. This may be done from the beginning of January to March ; but if begun very early, a little auxiliary heat, by means of linings, is required as that of the bed declines. Seakale. — This vegetable may be suc- cessfully forced in the frame and melon pit in the winter months, and a commence- ment may now be made. The usual plan is to make up a 3-foot bed, and cover it with 3 inches of loamy soil, before putting on the frame ; this allows more space inside. When the frame is on, and the bed of a right temperature, a little soil is put at the back of the frame, in the form of a bank, about 6 inches high, and sloping to the front. On this bank, place a row of seakale roots, laying them almost flat, as this admits of covering them without an undue thicicness of soil. When the first row of roots are laid, cover them with a few inches of soil, and make another bank 6 inches from the first, on which lay another row of roots ; and so proceed till the frame is full. A gentle heat must be maintained, but the light should be exclu ded entirely from the frame, otherwise the growth that is induced will not acquire that whiteness and delicacy for which forcoi seakale is valued. Strawberry Plants. — These may now be potted up, or the runners laid into pots, and placed in a frame ; they will bear much earlier under protection than they will in the open ground, and if treated occasionally to liquid manure they will bear as abundantly. Vegetables, &c., in Hotbeds and Frames. — No appliances are more useful than garden frames, yet none are more generally misapplied in small gardens ; many garden- ers considering them as proper only for the growth of the cucumber and melon, when, in fact, these should be considered but of secondary importance. Of course, what- ever is grown in them is entirely a matter of taste, and, as a general rule, that may be considered most profitable which is most in request. The chief object in calling atten- tion to the fact that other things besides cucumbers and melons may be grown— and grown with profit — in hotbeds is to get rid of the idea so generally prevalent that they can be used lor no other purpose than that of growing these delicious members of the great gourd family. Verbenas. — Place verbenas that are to be propagated from into a gentle heat, and prepare a slight hotbed for striking cuttings of these or any other bedding plants. All bedding plants will bear a much stronger heat while they are striking in the spring than in the autumn, and it will be found that verbenas will root in a week, placed in a close pit, with a bottom heat of from 80° to 90° JANUARY. 585 JANUARY. January.— Glasshouses for fruit, &c., Work in. Vines in Ground already started. — Vines, where they form a feature in the cultivation, are usually cultivated on some principle of succession, either by dividing the house by partitions or by having a succession of houses. Supposing the plants to have been started in October, they would break last month with a temperature in house of about 70°. This should now be the point aimed at, the minimum being 60° during the night. The actual heat, however, should be regulated by the state of the external border. If the heat is falling there, then fresh heating materials must be applied there ; for on that depends the result. Later sections may follow for suc- cession, beginning at a lower temperature, and increasing the heat gradually as the vines break and advance. Vines in Pots already Started. — Vines in pots, if started in October and exposed to regular heat, will now be setting their fruit. They may be pushed on vigorously ; for the roots being entirely under control, there is less danger of the plants being injured by over-forcing. Fresh plants should be brought forward. This may be done by plunging them into a hotbed and frame, and adding linings to keep up the heat until they break, when the heat of the vinery will be found sufficient. The plants showing fruit should be assisted by occa- sional applications of manure water in bright weather. Vines yet Dormant. — The stems of vines not yet started should be kept dry, but the roots which are not in a quiescent state, but growing, must be kept moderately moist. To retain the vines in their present state of rest, plenty of air must be given when the weather is mild, and the tempera- ture of the house should not at any time be raised above 40°, nor permitted to fall below 32*. January. — Greenhouse, Work in. With the opening year and the lengthen- ing day the busy season in the greenhouse commences; plants of all kinds begin to move, and most of them may now be assis- ted with a little heat. Soft-wooded plants maybe stimulated by it, and, when they begin to grow, moved into the larger pots in which they are to flower, while those which are more advanced and showing bloom may be introduced into a warmer place. Azaleas. — Azaleas should now be grow- ing freely, if they were shifted and promoted to a warm place last month. To get early flowering plants, some of the more advanced specimens should be introduced to greater heat, while others are retarded for a succes- sion, to supply the conservatory or window cases. Calceolarias. — Calceolarias require great attention as to watering. Remove all decaying leaves as they appear, peg down the shoots to the soil, that they may root up the stems and thus strengthen the plant. As seedlings advance, shift them into larger pots, and prick off those sown for late blooming. In potting, use a compost of light turfy loam, well decomposed manure and leaf mould, and a liberal portion of silver sand, with an ample drainage of potsherds and charcoal, and keep them free from insects. Camellias. — Camellias should now be advancing into full bloom, and the young expanding buds should be protected from cold currents of air, but without much fire heat. With camellias and other plants of similar habit advancing into bloom, occa- sional doses of manure water in a tepid state should be given, and the plants syringed with tepid water every other day, until the flowers begin to expand. Camellias should not be watered too liberally when coming into flower or when in bloom. It is after JANUARY. S86 JANUARY. they have flowered and are making wood that they require most water. Cinerarias. — Many cinerarias are now in bloom, and may be removed to the window or conservatory, while those reserved for blooming in May and June should still be kept in cold pits or frames, take care to guard them from severe frosty weather, and especially from moisture. If large cinera- rias are required, shift a few into larger pots, and pinch off the tops to produce a bushy head, tying or pegging down the side shoots to keep them open, keeping them supplied moderately with moisture, and giving air on every possible occasion. As cinerarias begin to throw up their flower stems, they should be removed to a house where a very moderate heat can be kept up. They do not require much warmth, it is true, but at the same time they would produce but a very poor display of bloom were they allowed merely to take their chance. Cleanliness. — This is specially required in plant houses of every kind. No litter should be suffered to remain on the floor, stages, or shelves, and every dead leaf should be removed from the plants before it falls. Compost for Potting. — A constant and ample supply of compost, well turned and thoroughly dry, should now be prepared for spring potting, and the pots washed and dried for use when wanted. Advantage should now be taken of any enforced absti- nence from outdoor work to prepare stakes, labels, compost, &c., and everything that will be required by and by as the season advances. Fuchsias. — Fuchsias may be started this month, and large early flowering specimens produced by cutting down the old plants and shaking the roots out of the old soil as soon as they have broken, re-potting them in a good rich compost, with sufficient drain- age. Strike cuttings for bedding plants as soon as the shoots are long enough. To start them, place them in the light, and water moderately. Hard- Wooded Plants. — It is usual, where circumstances permit, to grow hard-wooded plants, such as heaths, azaleas, camellias, and others of similar habit, in a seperate house ; and some cultivators go so far as to recommend those having limited accom- modation to confine their culture to one family, contending that it is better to have a houseful of finely grown heaths, geraniums, or camellias, as the case may be, than a miscellaneous collection of indifferently cultivated plants. This, however, must be a matter of taste. Hard- Wooded Plants — Watering.— Care should be taken that hard-wooded plants do not suffer from the absence of moisture at the roots. After severe frosts, when the fires have been used, the evaporation by the sides of the pots is very great, while the surface seems to be moist enough : this should be seen to. Among the hard- wooded plants the same remarks respecting heat are applicable ; a temperature of 40° should be aimed at during the night, rising a little by natural causes during the day. Air should be given from above, or by means of ventilators, without exposing the plants to cold draughts, and a moisture encouraged by sprinkling the floor, flues, and pipes, when warm, with water. Heaths. — With heaths, guard against mildew, but water moderately. Avoid artificial heat if possible, but keep out frost ; and, if heat becomes necessary, re- move such plants from its influence as are required for later flowering. Management. — Should frost appear or the weather prove damp, light the fires in the afternoon, and shut up the house before the sun disappears, keeping the heat as low as is consistent with excluding frost and dispelling damp, giving all the air possible in fine weather. Water those plants which JANUARY. JANUARY. have become dry, but water them copiously. The fancy varieties, being the most deli- cate, should be kept in the warmest parts of the house, and their foliage thinned out occasionally. Fumigate occasionally to prevent the appearance of the green fly. All watering should be done in the morn- ing, and none should be permitted to fall on the leaves of the plants. Give air when the external air shows a temperature of 40°. If the temperature without is below this, and the weather dull, air may be admitted without injury to the plants through the top ventilators for a short time by raising the fires so as to produce a few more degrees of warmth in the house, so that the air admit- ted may be more rapidly warmed. In watering, especially at this time of the year, it is better never to water any plant until it is dry, and then to give the soil in which it is growing a good soaking, and then to refrain from watering until it is dry again. The faster a plant grows, the more water it requires. Pelargoniums. — Pelargoniums which are strongly rooted may be shifted into larger pots and stronger soil, using silver sand freely, taking care that the pots are clean and dry and the drainage good. Stop some of the plants required for succession, remove decaying leaves, and thin out weak shoots. Stake and tie out the shoots of those sufficiently advanced to admit air to the centre. In plants of dwarf habit, peg the shoots down to the edge of the pot to encourage foliage. Stir and top dress the soil from time to time, if required : a water- ing once or twice with lime water and soot imparts a rich dark colour to the foliage, and destroys worms in the soil. Where early flowers of the pelargonium are re- quired, and a stove or hothouse or other forcing convenience is at hand, remove a few plants of early flowering sorts thither from the greenhouse for forcing. Position of Plants in Greenhouse. — Bulbs, such as hyacinths, crocuses, narcissi, &c., should be placed in positions that are warm and sheltered, and also shady. All plants should be kept from draughts, which are as injurious to them as they are to human beings. Hard-wooded plants may be placed in the coldest parts of the house. Soft-wooded and herbaceous plants should be placed in the warmest parts of the house and close to the glass. Temperature. — In the greenhouse main- tain a temperature at of least 40° by night and 50° by day, which will keep the plants from being excited unduly. The warmth at either period should not be suffered to decline below the heights stated. January.— Hothouse, Work in. Routine Work. — The routine business here during the month commences in earnest in January. A few plants of all kinds for ornamenting the house and con- servatory should be introduced and started gradually ; Indian azaleas, bulbs, roses, and lilacs, if already somewhat advanced, should have others brought forward to suc- ceed them. In the warm pits or frames attached to the hothouse, a good stock 01 pinks, sweet-williams, lilies of the valley, &c., may be started towards the end of the month. 7emferature. — The temperature of the forcing house should not be suffered to fall below 50° ; and as the days lengthen, the temperature should be increased 4° or 5°, until it attains a minimum temperature of 60° and a maximum of 70° by artificial heat, and an increase of 10° by sun heat ; giving air daily, even if for a short time only, and keeping the atmosphere always moist and genial by syringing or watering the pipes and flags. January. -Kitchen Garden, Work in. Asparagus. — The surface soil shouli JANUARY. 588 JANUARY. be raked away, and a fresh top dressing should be spread over the beds, consisting of half-rotted farmyard manure from 4 to 6 inches thick. Beans. — Beans, like peas, can be sown in October, where the soil is light or well drained and well sheltered. Where the ground is heavy, they may be raised in a pit or frame. To do this a number of 4- inch pots should be obtained, and the beans placed there in each pot. Beans thus sown in January may be planted out in March. Beans, and peas also, that are sown in January, niust be protected against the depredation of mice by suitable traps, and against severe frosts by mulching or covering with long litter, or by covering the ground with branches of spruce, fir, and similar material, or by protectors especially devised for the purpose. Broccoli. — Early varieties, such as the Walcheren broccoli and others, when nearly fit for table, should be taken up before the central leaves unfold and placed in a shed or cellar, where they may be pre- served from frost until they are required for use. If the flower of the broccoli, which is the part that is eaten, is exposed to even a slight frost when it .is in a wet condition, it is fit for nothing. Hence the utility of plant protectors for broccoli, which at all events shield them from wet, although they do not exclude frost. Carrots. — A little seed may be sown on a hotbed for an early supply, and radishes, kidney beans, and anything else that is likely to be needed before the time that it will arrive at perfection in a natural way, may be similarly treated. If no hotbed is available, the seeds may be sown in the ground in a south border or some sunny spot, under protectors, frames, or even handlights. Celery. — Sow a small pinch of celery seed in a patch for the purpose of flavour- ing »oups in the early part of the summer, when full-grown sticks cannot be had. Earth up celery as it advances in growth, and when performing the work see that the soil is well broken up and laid round the plants lightly, that they may not be crushed or bruised, raising the earth very nearly to the top of each. Cleanliness and Order. — Remove all stumps of broccoli or cabbage as soon as used, and gather up all dead and de- caying leaves. If weeds are perceptible among growing crops, run the hoe over the ground, that the weeds may be cut up and so perish. Endive. — Full-grown plants should be well covered with slates, tiles, or even pieces of board, and litter heaped over all, in order to blanch and preserve them. Crops for succession should be placed under protectors ; and fresh sowings should also be protected. It is better and safer to sow on a slight hotbed than in the open air at this early period of the year. Letttices. — In every garden it should be possible to obtain a salad at any season of the year, but to do this, and to maintain a constant supply, recourse must be had to frequent, say fortnightly, sowings. Sow this month in a warm border under a south wall or fence. They are better if sown at this season in a frame, if one can be spared ; even a handlight is better than no protection at all. Wanting either, it is advisable to cover the seed when sown with straw or light litter, taking it off some- times to give a dusting with lime, in case any slugs may be harboured. The ground should be well dug over one spit deep, a dressing of manure being turned in, as lettuces require a rich soil in order to grow them to advantage. Advancing crop* must be well protected. Mushrooms. — Mushroom beds, in general, should be carefully attended tc* at this season — that is to say, they should JANUARY. 539 JANUARY. have sufficient covering to defend them effectually from frost, should there be any, and from rain or snow. This covering should not be less than a foot thick, and if rain or snow should have penetrated quite through it, it should be removed im- mediately, or the spawn will be in danger of perishing. Replace it with another covering of clean, dry straw, and to defend the bed more effectually from wet and cold, spread large mats or canvas cloths over the straw. New beds may be made, if required, as they will afford a full crop in the spring and early summer months, though perhaps not so large a one as the beds made in the autumn. Operations > Forecast of. — This is the season when the forethought of the gardener may be exhibited. He has to lay down his plan of operations for the year, or at least for the next three months; and on his judgment in doing this much of the successful cultivation depends. If he cover too much ground with early crops in these three months, not only will great waste arise, but he will have forestalled the space required for the main crops in April, May, and June, when some of the most important crops are to be sown. He should make his calculations now, so as to secure a constant succession of the various products as they are required, but leaving little or nothing to run to waste. It is a good practice, in going through the orchard, bush fruit, and trees generally, to cut off all spare wood at this season, assort them as to size and shape, and tie them up in bundles ready for use as pea sticks and other purposes. At this season it is neces- sary to be provided with mats or litter to cover the glass in case of sharp frost ; for, though most of these crops are hardy, yet, when young and growing, they are not un- likely to be cut off by frosts. They are also much strengthened and hardened by j exposure to the air in mild weather. A I warm shower is also beneficial ; but too much wet is injurious, especially in cold inclement winds. Peas, Early. — Early peas may be got in any time this month, if the weather per- mits. Where the ground is tolerably porous and well drained, and a warm border, well sheltered on the north, is available, nothing more is required than to sow them in rows, 5, 6, or more feet apart, the rows running north and south ; for dwarf peas 5 feet will suffice. In warm situations and light soils, early peas will probably have been sown in October. As they spear through the ground some light litter should be placed over them in frosty weather, but this should be removed in mild weather ; by this treatment they will come in very early. Where the soil is light it is very necessary to mulch early peas; it protects the young roots from frost, and saves watering and manuring the ground for the next crop. It tends, also, to produce a better and much earlier crop of peas. Protection. — This is essentially a month in which protection is required for growing crops as well as those which have not yet germinated. Globe artichokes and parsley require protection as well as the crops already indicated, and celery and cauli- flower are all the better for it. It will be sufficient to throw a covering of long litter over globe artichokes and celery, but for parsley and cauliflower plant protectors are more suitable, with a lining of dung placed along the sides, and branches or straw mats over the glass. Roots in Store. — Whether in cellars, or in pits or caves formed of straw or litter and covered with a coating of earth, all roots, such as potatoes, parsnips, carrots, beetroot, and onions, in store, should be looked to, so that decaying roots or bulbs may be removed, and to ascertain that the pits or caves are impenetrable to frost. JANUARY. 590 JANUARY. Spinach. — Sow a row or two between such crops as beans, peas, and the like, as in such situations there will be a good chance of obtaining an early crop. Trenching and Digging. — All ground that is yet unoccupied by crops, and has not been already trenched, should be trenched and thrown up into ridges at once, in order to expose as much surface as possible to the air, and to let in the frost between the clods of earth, for the surface should be left as rough as possible. Ground intended for parsnips should be trenched this month. Work Dependent on Weather.— The work to be done in the kitchen garden in January depends altogether on the weather. In open frosty weather no opportunity should be lost for wheeling manure on the vacant ground. All the refuse about the grounds should be col- lected and added to the manure heap, and that burned or charred which will not readily decompose, and added to it. January.— Shrubbery, Work in. Shrubberies, Dressing. — Shrubberies on poor soils are much benefited by manur- ing. The practice of raking every weed and leaf off the surface, and cruelly dis- rooting the plants by a deep winter or spring digging, is altogether a mistake. Once shrubberies are properly established in good soil, no rake should ever cross their surface, and every leaf that falls upon them should be merely dug in at any time from December to April, but the earlier the better. Leaves are Nature's means of sus- taining the fertility of the soil, and when- ever or whenever they are removed and no substitute for them takes their place, the soil rapidly inclines towards sterility. Shrttbs, Cuttings of. — Cuttings of the young shoots of many sorts of hardy de- ciduous shrubs may likewise now be planted in open weather, inasmuch as they will be sure to take root in the spring and summer, shoot at the top, and form strong plants, with plenty of fibrous roots, by the autumn. Shrubs and Trees, Planting. — November is undoubtedly the proper month for plant- ing and transplanting every kind of deci- duous tree and shrub, and evergreens as well ; and, if possible, planting of all trees and shrubs should be carried out by the middle of December. This kind of work should, therefore, be pushed forward in mild open weather. All newly-planted shrubs and trees should have their roots protected with long litter or manure to pre- serve them from injury. This surface dress- ing is called mulching: the litter or manure being a non-conductor tends in winter to shield the roots from frost, and to protect them in summer from the parch- ing influence of the sun's rays. All trees and shrubs, especially those of large size, when newly-planted, should have the top firmly secured to a strong stake so as to keep it from swaying to and fro when the wind is high. If this precaution be neg- lected, the rootlets, which have begun to take hold of the soil, will be dragged from their moorings, and the first efforts of the freshly-planted tree to take anchor in its new position will be rendered of none effect. Beds of hyacinths and tulips, in whatever part of the garden they may be, should be protected during severe weather, as the spikes of leaf and bloom are often injured when coming through the soil. Mats supported on hoops may be used, or the surface may be covered to the depth of a few inches with cocoanut fibre. Shrubs, <5rY., Pruning. — All deciduous shrubs may now be pruned, and hedges con- sisting of privet, beech, the white thorn or hawthorn, &c., should be pruned and trimmed, if this has not been already done, and the bottom cleared of all weeds and rubbish. Climbing roses, tea roses only FEBRUARY. FEBRUARY. being excepted, jasmines, clematises, and other climbing plants may now be pruned and trained. Snow on Trees, Shrubs •, &*c. — When a heavy fall of snow occurs, dislodge it from ornamental and flowering trees, shrubs, &c., by shaking them with a rake or pole like a clothes prop with a fork at the top, ' to prevent them from getting broken by | the superincumbent weight. Suckers. — Rooted suckers, or rather j suckers that can be taken from the mother plant with a portion of root to it, may now be removed from roses, lilacs, and other ; shrubs, and transplanted so as to enter on ; a separate existence. The larger ones may be planted at once in the borders wher- ever it may be intended for them to re- main ; but the smaller ones should be placed in rows in the nursery or reserve garden, to make good strong plants in about two years' time. FEBRUARY. Aspect and Character of Month. The mean temperature of February is nearly two degrees higher than January, and the average number of frosty nights is about eleven. Less rain falls this month than in any other, and hoar-frosts at this season generally precede it. February. — Conservatory, Work in. Here camellias, arums, epacrises, Salvia splendens, Chinese primroses, a few heaths, lachenalias, and perhaps forced lilacs, azaleas, rhododendrons, hyacinths, nar- cissuses, jonquils, crocuses, and other bulbs, will now be either in flower or coming into flower bud. Keep a night temperature of from 40° to 45°, allowing a rise of 10° with sun heat. Unless during very severe frost or cutting winds, give air daily, if only for an hour at noon, to change the atmosphere of the house and dry up drip. Management of Conservatory. — Prune and destroy scale and other insects OH climbers and other permanent plants. All plants should be carefully examined before they are introduced into this house, irt order to prevent an importation of insects,, as smoking with tobacco, or other insect- destroying processes, are not only very disagreeable, but are most inimical to the beauty and long continuance of the flowers. Examine, water, and top dress, if necessary, any of the borders. Remove all plants- back to their respective quarters as soon as- their flowers fade, and introduce fresh supplies from forcing pits, greenhouse, or stove, and let no dead leaf, or flower, or dirt of any description, be allowed to mar the sense of delight which this house and its occupants should ever be calculated to- inspire. February.— Flower Garden. Anemones, Ranunculuses. — If not al- ready planted, the planting should not be longer deferred. Good soil is desirable for ranunculuses, and it should be enriched by the addition of well-rotted cow-dung. Ane- mones do not require so rich a soil, but the blooms will be all the finer if the ground is well dressed with the same kind of manure. Annuals, Transplanting. — If the weather continues mild, autumn-sown annuals may be transplanted during the month ; from 2 inches to 4 inches square, according to- the size and habits of the plants, will be a proper distance apart. Bed and Borders, Treatment of. — \Yhere the beds are filled with shrubs in winter,, they should be hoed deeply several times during the month, to expose a fresh surface to the air. Beds occupied with crocuses and snowdrops should have the surface FEBRUARY. 592 FEBRUARY. broken with a rake occasionally, or, what is better, generally stirred with a fork, before the plants appear. Borders similarly furnished require the same treatment. This not only imparts additional neatness, but, by breaking the crust, enables the plant to appear more easily and speedily, and in dry weather it considerably modifies the power of the frost. Beds planted with her- baceous plants, as well as herbaceous borders, will be benefited by similar treat- ment, provided they were dug early in November. Finish digging among her- baceous plants, circumscribing, dividing, rearranging, and replanting all where neces- sary, during mild weather. Crocuses. — At this period, mice and sparrows will do much mischief to crocuses, and care must be taken, by plunging jars, half filled with water, in the earth, to serve as traps for the former, and spreading light netting or other protecting medium over the surface to keep off the latter, to protect the corms from injury in this re- spect as far as possible. Frost, Precautions against Effect of. — The earth round the collars of all plants is loosened by frost, and when the frost has been severe and lasting, some plants will be found even to be raised slightly out of the ground when a thaw takes place. Therefore, after frost, press the earth firmly about carnations, pinks, pansies, primroses, polyanthuses, aubrietias, daisies, arabis, myosotis, and all plants of this kind, and hardy autumn-sown annuals. Lawns. — Ground that is to be sown for lawns, &c., should now be well trenched and drained if necessary. If the soil is poor, the incorporation of some well- rotted manure with the top spit' will im- prove the quality and luxuriance of the grass in time to come. Reserve Garden. — If the weather continues open, the following hardy annuals should be sown during the month : — Alyssum calycinum (Sweet A fyssum). Bartonia aurea. Calandrinia spe- ciosa. Calliopsis bicolor atrosanguinea. ,, Drummondii. Chrysanthemum coronarium. Collinsia bicolor. ,, grandifiora. Erysimum Perof- skianum Eschscrholtzia Call- fornica. ,, crocea. „ crocea alba. Eutoca Manglesii. viscida. Gilia tricolor. „ ,, alba. ,, „ rose a. Iberis coronana (Candy tuff). ,, odorata. ,, umbellata. alba, Leptosiphon andro- saceus. ,, densiilorus. ,, flore albus. Limnanthes grandi- flora. Nemophila ato- maria. discoidalis. insignis. maculata. Schizanthus pin- natus (Fig. ). „ Priestii. porrigens. Silene pendula. Sphenogyne spe- ciosa. Viscaria oculata. There are many other beautiful hardy annuals, some of which, such as the lupines, had better not be sown till March. Only half the packets of the above seeds should be sown in February, and the other half reserved for a second sowing, either in the reserve garden or on the borders and beds where they are to bloom. Those sown during March or the beginning of April are more to be depended on than the earlier sowings. However, the above will prove quite hardy in ordinary seasons, unless the frost is very severe just as they are coming through the ground ; in that case, some slight protection should be afforded them. Hence one great advantage of sow- ing all early seeds in the reserve garden, where any necessary shelter may easily be provided. With the exception of ten-week stocks, which should be sown in pots or a frame at once, the sowing of all other tender or half-hardy annuals may safely be deferred to next month. Roses t Dressing. — The rose is a gross feeder, and requires a liberal amount of manure in order to induce it to bloom effectively. Roses should have a plentiful top dressing in February. Nothing is too rich for the rose ; even night-soil may be applied as well as farmyard manure of any FEBRUARY. 593 FEBRUARY. kind. Cow-dung is, above all manures, preferable for roses. Those who keep fowls and pigeons will find the droppings of the birds, stored in a proper receptacle and soaked with urine, a useful dressing. Manures should not be applied in a per- fectly fresh state to roses; but if it is necessary to use them in this condition they should be mixed with equal quantities of good loam or charred earth to lower their strength. Roses, Hardy. — Tender sorts of Bourbon, China, Noisette, and Tea-scented roses are better if planting is deferred to the end of March or the beginning of April ; but all the hardy varieties may be planted this month. The planting, however, should be finished as soon as possible. Roses, Pruning. — It is not a good practice to prune roses when planted. The tops of newly-planted roses should be left on for a month or six weeks after the operation ; they should then be cut back and headed in to three or four buds from the stock. This will insure a healthy, vigorous growth. After the plants are established, the shoots may vary in length from 4 inches to 16 inches. The weaker the growth, the closer roses should be pruned, and vice versd. Es- tablished plants of hybrid perpetuals and ..summer roses should be pruned at once ; the more tender varieties will be safer if left unpruned for another month or six weeks. Roses in borders should be staked anew and fresh labelled, if necessary. Hardy climbing varieties may be trained and trimmed. Banksian roses should have had the old wood cut in when they went out pf flower. The growth of last summer will bear blooms this season, and must be left untouched. Thin out the weakly shoots of Austrian, Copper, Persian Yellow, and other briers of the same class, shortening the stronger ones but very slightly. Treat some of the stronger Teas and Noisettes, &s Marechal Niel, Celine Forestier, Solfa- terre, and Cloth of Gold, in the same way. Routine work. — Any contemplated alter- ations in the form and arrangement of the garden which have not been carried out must of necessity be completed in February, and as early in the month as possible. Vacant spaces and flower beds intended for the reception of bedding plants at a period must be dug over, and all composts and manures should be carried to and placed on the ground over which they are to be spread. Wherever turf is to be laid, it should be done before the month comes to an end. New edgings of any kind may yet be laid or set, to divide borders from walks, and the borders may be pointed and receive a coat of top dressing, if this has not been given at an earlier period, and the walks, if of gravel, can have the top surface turned, and then be raked and rolled. Tulips, Hyacinths, &c. — Guard choice tulips, hyacinths, &c., against the attacks of mice and snails. An endless variety of traps have been invented for the former : no trap is more efficient for the latter than leaves of the cabbage tribe, laid flat on the ground, and carefully examined every night ; if left till morning, possibly the leaves will be eaten, and the snail hid beyond our reach. In order to protect tulips from the ill effects of severe frosts and heavy rains, hoops should be placed over the beds, and mats laid on the hoops. The mats should be removed at the ap- proach of finer and less inclement weather. Turf and Gravel Walks.— Sweep and roll turf and gravel ; finish laying turf; top dress, turn, renew, and relay the edgings of walks ; and let cleanliness and neatness compensate as far as possible for the absence of floral beauty. February.— Fruit Garden and Orchard. Apples and Pears. — Finish pruning all FEBRUARY. 594 FEBRUARY. fruit trees this month, whether standards, espaliers, dwarf bushes, pyramids, pillars, or trained on walls. In pruning these, the main object is to produce short fruiting spurs, so that all vigorous shoots should be shortened in ; but the stronger the shoots the less they should be cut ; for too close cutting throws them into the production of wood and leaf, and not fruit. Apricots, Nectarines^ and Peaches on walls ought to be unnailed and pruned this month. Thin out the shoots till they lie about 6 inches from each other, and shorten or not according to the strength of the tree or shoot ; if very strong, shorten little or none ; but if the end of a weak shoot terminates still more weakly, cut back to a double bud — that is, one leaf bud between two flower buds ; prune neatly in this way, and take them up again with fresh nails and shreds. The trees should be done over in this way every winter, but it is important that the shoots be thinned out and dis- budded in summer time. Borders, Manuring, &c. — Borders con- taining fruit trees may now be covered with a mulching of good farmyard manure, or a coating of fresh loam may be used as a top dressing for the borders and stimu- lants given in the form of liquid manure. It is beneficial at this time of year to all kinds of trees, bush fruit, and ground fruit, because it affords plant food that will be taken in and assimilated by the roots, and will impart vigour to the plants and increase the quantity and quality of the fruit. The urine of any animal, when diluted with water to the extent of three parts of the latter to one of the former, forms an excellent liquid manure for trees, gooseberries, currants, raspberries, and strawberries. The slops of the house are also useful, and require little, if any, dilution. Sewage water and liquid manure from the farmyard may also be used to advantage at this time of year. Cherries and Plums. — These should be treated in a manner similar to that which has been prescribed for other kinds of fruit trees. Currants and Gooseberries. — The bushes of both kinds should be pruned where formerly omitted. In pruning gooseberries, the object is merely to thin out and regulate the shoots, which need not be shortened except to keep them off the ground. In pruning currants, the object is to produce short fruit-bearing spurs, so that all the shoots, except the leaders, should be cut in three-fourths, the leading shoots about one- half, or rather more. Currants, Black. —Pruning must not be carried to so great an extent for black currants ; indeed, these should scarcely be cut at all, for they do not bear so well if much pruned ; so that a little thinning or reducing into shape is all that ought to be done. Figs. — Figs on walls should scarcely be cut at all : in fact, no trees should be cut in frosty weather. Grafting, Materials for. — Everything necessary for grafting in March should now be got ready, such as tow, grafting wax, &c., so that opportunity may be taken when a favourable time comes to enter on the work without delay. Clay for grafting should have been prepared by successive beatings and kneading together, and the removal of all small stones and hard particles that may be in it. It is prepared finally for use by thoroughly incorporating it with fresh horse-dung or cow-dung in the proportion of one part of dung to three parts of clay. Grafting, Scions for.— ;Those already taken off should still be left where they were placed when cutoff — that is to say, in he eaith, under a north wall. Any not fet taken from the parent tree should be removed at once and treated in a similar mannrr. Grafting, Stocks for. — These, if not done FEBRUARY. 595 FEBRUARY. already, may be headed back this month, tout they should not be left too long, as the sap is already beginning to move upwards. Pruning and Training. — These neces- sary operations should be carried out, and the hardier kinds of trees should be finished this month. It is necessary to see that the trees are perfectly clean, and free from dirt and canker, and that the walls, &c , be clear of insect life. Trees that aie bark bound, and in which the bark refuses to expand with every fresh deposit of woody fibre, must be relieved by dressing the bark with linseed oil, and then drawing the point of a sharp knife longitudinally down the stem and through the bark of the part affected. Care should be taken to undo every ligature or shred that is too tight for the branch it holds and is cutting into the bark, or is likely to cut into it as the tree grows. It is impossible to be too careful in looking to old ties, shreds, and nails, in order to obviate any damage that may arise from neglect of injuries that have arisen, or are likely to arise, from them. Pruning Roots. — This should have been done in October and November, and unless the need be very urgent, it had best be left till the end of the autumn again comes round. Otherwise it may be done in open weather, and when there is no immediate fear of severe frost. Raspberries. — These should be pruned without delay, if not done before. Cut out all the old canes, and thin out the new to four or five ; shorten them one-third, and, if necessary, support them with sticks, rails, or by arching them together. If this is done carefully, only tying two together, it will answer better than by tying them to stakes. Strawberries. — If it is desirable to make new plantations of strawberries at this time, it may be done by taking up runners with e trowel, and planting them 18 inches apart. It is easy to select plants that will flower and fruit the same year by the crowns, which, if plump and full, indicate flower buds. After planting, mulch with dung : they will bear much more freely, and it is important to do this early. Old plants should be cleaned and mulched. February. — Glasshouses for Fruit, &G., Work in. Fertilisation. — Unless bees make their appearance, the trees should often be gently shaken when in flower, and the pollen dis- tributed by a camel-hair pencil to insure the fructification of the blossoms. Figs will bear a higher temperature than peaches, and may be started at 50°. The terminal buds of the young shoot should be removed to insure a good crop. Maintain a moist atmosphere, and water copiously when necessary. Peaches, Nectarines, &*c. — In their early stages these are very impatient of heat. Begin with a temperature of 40°, and gradually rise to 50°. This should not be much exceeded until the fruit is set ; then, by gradual ascent, from 5° to IO° may be added ; and this is the maximum of fire heat for peaches until the ticklish period of stoning is over. Syringe twice daily in bright weather, except when the trees are in flower. The borders should have a good soaking, if dry, before forcing commences. Give as much air as the weather will permit at all times. Pines.— From 65° to 70,° should be the minimum temperature during the month ; the bottom heat may range from 5° to 10° higher. During dull weather a dry atmo- sphere must be preserved. The plants should be carefully examined previous to watering, and this operation, whenever necessary, performed so as to prevent the water getting into the axils of the leave*. Plants swelling their fruit should be placed at the waimest end of the house, and thos* FEBRUARY. 596 FEBRUARY. intended for autumn or winter fruiting kept steadily growing, care fully guarding against any sudden check. Succession plants in pots must be kept rather dry, and the linings and coverings carefully attended to. Vines in Houses. — Vines in houses, started in October, will now be swelling their fruit. Thin in time, and maintain a steady growing temperature of 65°. Those started in January will show their bunches this month, and a temperature from 55° to 60° will be suitable. Some prefer leaving the disbudding until the bunches show, and then leave the best. This is safe practice, and the buds up to this stage do not exhaust the vine much. Vines in Pots. — Grapes grown in pots require the same general treatment as those planted out. It will very much hasten the ripening of the fruit if the pots are main- tained in a steady bottom heat of from 700 to 80°. Vines Starting. — In many places the first or second house will be started this month. See that all loose bark is removed from the vines, that they are thoroughly cleaned with soap and water, and painted over with a thick coating of equal parts of sulphur, soot, lime, and cow-dung, made into a paste with strong soapsuds, previous to starting them. Begin with a tempera- ture of 45°, and slowly and gradually in- crease it during the month 10° or 1 6°. Maintain a genial atmosphere in all the houses by sprinkling the paths, syringing, &c., and give as much air as the weather will permit, allowing a rise of 10° or 15° during sunshine. February.— Greenhouse, Work in. More air may be given to, and 5° less heat will suffice for this house than for the conservatory. Now is a good time to ex- amine and clean the whole stock of plants. Many of the acacias and epacrises are ap o become infested with scale. So liable o this pest are many acacias and epacrises/ and, indeed, many other plants, that it seems to be a constitutional tendency ; its eradication, too, is very difficult. Preven- tion is the only remedy, for experience tends to prove that a perfect cure is im- possible. So doubtful is this point, that it is better to spend a week in looking over an entire collection without finding a single scale, than an hour in trying any nostrum upon a single infected plant. Experiments with every kind of preventive and so-called cure, Gishurst's Compound included, for scale and bug, go far to prove that there is no remedy for these pests but removing and destroying them. Spirits of wine, indeed, will kill the latter, but it is powerless upon the former. It has also the great drawback of killing some of the tender leaves. Achimenes. — These plants are especially useful in small greenhouses. They may be propagated by small tubers or cuttings in bottom heat. The best material to grow them in is a compost of leaf mould, peat, and a little well - decomposed cow-dung with some silver sand. For flowering in June, plant the small tubers in pans, in February, and in succession for autumn flowering. When about an inch high, transplant into pots or pans, several in each, shifting them when full of roots. After flowering, the plants should be kept growing till the foliage decays, that the tubers may become ripe and perfect. Then place the pots or pans in a warm place, to be kept dry till the tubers are wanted. Azaleas and Heaths. — If any dust or soot has accumulated on the leaves of heaths and azaleas, they will be much benefited by a good washing. Water with care, ex- amining carefully the balls of the plants, which, in heaths, sometimes becomes so hard and dry that the water refuses to pass through. They should never be allowed to FEBRUARY. 597 FEBRUARY. become so, but if found in this condition, they should be plunged into a pail of water for 12 or 24 hours, until the ball is thoroughly soaked. Pick off the flowers of winter- blooming heaths as soon as their beauty has faded. Carefully watch weak downy- leaved varieties for the first symptoms of mildew, and refrain from syringing any of them overhead in dull weather. The best mode of washing is to hold the plant on one side over a tub of water, turning it round in all directions, while an assistant dashes the water violently upon it with a syringe. Very dirty plants may sometimes require to have their leaves sponged with soap and water in addition to this. Calceolarias and Cinerarias. — These now enjoy a temperature of from 45° to 55°. Well-rooted plants of the former should be shifted into the compost recommended last month ; and plants for very late flowering of the latter may also be shifted. The earliest cinerarias will now be opening their flowers in the conservatory, and a succes- sion coming on to supply their place. Fuchsias. — These, after re-potting, thrive best if plunged in a gentle bottom heat. Water carefully until fresh roots are emitted ; shade in bright sunshine to prevent flagging. Thin out plants that have been cut down to a single shoot, if the pyramidal shape is desired ; if bushes are wanted, leave three or four, and maintain a genial temperature of from 50° to 60°. Fuchsias, C^^tting and Shifting. — Never cut down and shift fuchsias at the same time, nor shake them out for re-potting before they have again begun to grow. After cutting down, allow the shoots to grow two or three inches ; plants that have not been cut down must fairly break before they are re-potted. The young top growths will then hasten the emission of roots, and the plants, with a moist atmosphere provided for a few days, will scarcely sustain any check. When re-potting, use a smaller pot than that in which the plant has been growing. A suitable soil for fuchsias is composed of two parts of turfy loam to one of peat, with an admixture of bone dust and charcoal. Gloxinias. — These are flowers of the same class as the achimenes and tydaeas. The tubers should be potted in February or March. The soil best suited for growing them is composed of rich loam, leaf mould, and peat, in equal proportions, to which should be added a good quantity of Reigate or silver sand. Place in a little heat to start them into growth, and water sparingly till the plants are well established. When in bloom, bring them into the conservatory or drawing-room. After the plants have done blooming, dry gradually off by with- holding water from their roots ; afterwards remove them to a warm place, to be kept dry till the tubers are wanted. Grem Fly. — At this season of the year green fly often attacks pimeleas, lesche- naultias, and other plants ; let them be destroyed at once by fumigation with tobacco smoke, applied by the agency of a fumigator. They also put in an appear- ance on calceolarias and cinerarias, of which they are particularly fond ; as soon as their presence is detected they must be destroyed. Pelargoniums. — These plants now delight in a temperature of from 45° to 50°, with 10° increase by sun heat. Scarcely any rise of temperature should be permitted, however, before the house is slightly venti- lated. The sun's rays striking upon plants with any drops of condensed moisture on the leaves is certainly one cause of the spot on these plants. Cutting draughts of cold wind are doubtless another cause of the same disease. This must be specially guarded against on bright days, when the air is keen and harsh. Pelargoniums, Fancy. — These will bear a temperature of 5° or 10° more than the FEBRUARY. 598 FEBRUARY. other varieties. They should be potted in lighter soil, and even more carefully watered, as altogether their constitutions are more tender. The shoots will now require thin- ning and training. Pelargoniums , Management of. — Shifting :he young successional stock should now be completed. The soil they delight in con- sists in two parts good turfy loam and one of leaf mould, with a slight admixture of thoroughly decomposed cow-dung and a liberal sprinkling of silver sand. The chief work here at present will consist in stirring the surface of the large plants, staking, training, and watering. The water should be, say, 5° warmer than the temperature of the house, and in dull weather, or indeed any weather at this season, the foliage must be kept dry. Plants requiring Shifting. — Towards the end of the month several species of greenhouse plants, such as kalosanthes or crassula, baronias, chorozemas, dillwynias, pimeleas, and azaleas, may be shifted into larger pots. Most of these thrive well in good fibrous peat and a little loam, liberally intermixed with sharp silver sand and char- coal. One of the chief things to attend to before placing any plant whatever, but especially any hardwooded plant, into a larger pot, is to see that the old ball is in a nice healthy growing state. The extre- mities of the roots should also be carefully untwisted or unwound, to induce them to start at once in the fresh soil. The new soil must also be pressed firmly into the pots, or the water will pass through it, instead of penetrating through the old mass of roots. More hard-wooded plants are destroyed through inattention to these points than by all other sources of mis- management put together. Tydczas. — Allied to the achimenes are the tydoeas, which produce beautifully spotted tube-shaped flowers. These, how- ever, require more heat. Watering Plants in Greenhouse. — Watei may be given freely to heaths, epacrises, and azaleas coming into flower, but camel- lias, on the contrary, must have but a limited supply. Chinese primroses require a liberal supply of water, but care must be taken not to let any fall on the hearts of these plants. February. — Hotbeds, Frames, &c., Work in. I. FLOWERS. — Auriculas, Pinks ; Car- nations, &c. — These may have as much air as it is possible to give them, provided always that the temperature of the external air is not lower than 35° ; draughts must be avoided, and water given but sparingly and when the weather is mild. Bedding out. — If the bedding system is carried out, the garden must be filled with /lowering plants by the end of the month. To effect it, verbenas must be planted 4 inches apart, and geraniums from 6 inches to 8 inches. Measure the superficies of your beds ; calculate at these distance.?, and increase your stock accordingly. With the exception of calceolarias certainly, and probably geraniums, nearly all other bed- ding plants grow and flower as well, if not better, when propagated in the spring as in the autumn. Geraniums grow equally well ; but I think autumn-struck cuttings flower more freely, and certainly two, three, or four-year old plants flower more freely than any cuttings whatever. Bedding out, Propagation for. — The great business of propagating tender plants j for fnrnishing the flower garden must now be i^orously prosecuted. Stock must be takeu, calculations made, judgment and foresight exercised, and activity displayed, if the garden is to be liberally filled next May. For the last few months, the great object has been safely to keep what we have. During the next three, the plants FEBRUARY. 599 FEBRUARY. we have must be used to furnish what is required to fill the garden next May. Bedding out, Seeds for. — Seeds of lobelia, pyrethrum, Golden Feather, and any other plant required for edgings and bedding out in quantity may now be sown. Tender annuals and climbing plants may now be placed in cold frames. Dahlias. — Place dahlia roots, also, in heat at this time, to excite healthy growth for cuttings. Geraniums. — Boxes of geranium roots that have been stored in cellars through the winter may now be brought out into the light of day, and, if they have been care- fully managed, the whole surface will be alive with buds and shoots. A hundred such roots will furnish a thousand well- rooted plants before bedding-out time, and leave the old roots still available — the best of all plants for the centres of beds. For this purpose, however, they must be placed in bottom heat until the shoots are two or three inches long. Then thin the stools by heeling off the cuttings — that is, taking them off quite close to the old stems. Place the cuttings singly in small 6o-sized pots, or three round a large 60, or in pots or boxes of any size ; place them in a house or frame with a temperature of 60°, and in three weeks they will be well rooted. If a frame is used, it must have a little air night and day, as geraniums are very im- patient of a close atmosphere. Propagation on Slate. — Those who hap- pen to have a spare house in which bottom heat under slate can be obtained may use it for propagating bedding plants. On the top of the slate two inches of rough leaf- mould is strewed for drainage ; over that, 3 inches of sandy loam ; and on the top of the loam, half an inch of common pit sand. The cuttings are inserted with a small dibber in this prepared bed. the surface watered until it is perfectly level — a point of great moment. A temperature of 60° should be maintained, and the house never shaded. In less than a month, thousands of plants may be rooted in this way with very trifling loss. Re-potting and Shifting. — Cinerarias and calceolarias in frames may be re-potted or removed to glasshouse. Pelargoniums should now be shifted for the last time before blooming, into the pots in which they are to blossom. Verbenas. — Verbenas also root well in the same way; but in bright weather they require shading. However, for verbenas, ageratums, pelargoniums, heliotropes, fuch- sias, lantanas, petunias, £c., in the spring, no place is better than a pit or frame with top or bottom heat of from 60° to 70°. If any or all of these have been gradually hardened off in the winter, the store pots ought to be now plunged into a temperature of 50° or 60°, for a week or fortnight before the tops are removed for cuttings. Within certain limits, the more tender the shoots of such plants are, the more rapidly they will emit roots. 2. VEGETABLES. — Asparagus. — Early asparagus is forced in the following manner with most satisfactory results. In an ordinary melon pit, about the beginning of February, a quantity of stable dung is set to work by turning and shaking in the ordinary way to sweeten and regulate the heat. By the middle of the month, as much of this is thrown into the pit as will fill it to within a foot of the glass. Two days afterwards, this is covered with a layer of 3 inches of mellow soil. On a mild day previous to this, a quantity of asparagus roots should have been grubbed up from an old bed — these are the best plants for forcing — and placed ready. As soon as the fermenting material has arrived at a safe temperature, about 80°, these roots are packed thickly together on the 3 inches of soil, and more soil thrown on them, just sufficient to cover them, without increasing FEBRUARY. 600 FEBRUARY. the weight too suddenly or too greatly. This precaution is necessary, because the addition of IO inches of earth would cause a rapid sinking and proportionate rise in the temperature of the dung, to the injury of the roots. Four days after planting, sufficient earth is put on to cover the crowns about 6 inches. In ten days the crowns begin to appear. Asparagus Forcing. — When the crowns appear, the settling of the dung has brought the surface of the soil 18 inches from the glass. Nothing more is required to be done than to cover them from frosts and give them an occasional watering, with a little salt in the water. This bed will continue to produce largely till the time asparagus is plentiful out of doors. Aspa- ragus may be forced any time during the winter ; but to have it earlier than Feb- ruary a frame and dung bed is better than a melon pit, since the necessary heat must be maintained by means of outside linings. In other respects the treatment is much the same. Beans, French. — These may still be sown as described last month, or they may be placed in an old hotbed fresh lined. As the season advances, they will require less heat, but will not do out of doors yet. Beds, Seedling. — Cauliflower, lettuce, cabbage, broccoli, radish, carrot, onions, beet, £c., may now be sown in the cold pit or frame ; they will not come on so quickly as those sown in heat, but will be earlier than those sown outdoors. It is not well to begin too early with seeds of this kind, unless an abundance of manure is at hand, for the earlier the beginning, the more dung to maintain the heat will be required. Carrots, Early. — These may be sown, for succession, on a slight hotbed, and very dwarf peas also, which may be treated in the same way as French beans, mustard cress, and lettuces, for succession. Cauliflower st Lettuces, &c. — Cauli- flowers, corn salad, parsley, endive, lettuces, &c., in cold frames, should have the earth stirred between them occasionally ; they should have every ray of sunshine, and be uncovered en- tirely in mild weather. Pick out dead leaves, and water if needful, but beware of over-wetting. Cucumbers. — Cucumbers in full growth require every attention. See that the heat of the beds does not fall below 70° ; apply fresh linings as soon as this is the case. Attend to stopping and setting ; allow no more than two or three cucumbers to grow at the same time on one plant ; admit air in sunny weather, but not enough to pro- duce a draught ; give all the light possible, but cover at night with mats or straw, and add fresh earth if required. Cucumbers, Planting. — If it is desired to start more beds, the dung may be got ready and treated as formerly described, during which time the seed may be sown in pots and placed in a bed in full operation ; or those who have not yet begun may proceed as described last month. Good loamy soil is best to grow them in, so that it is warm enough before planting. Place two plants on a mound under each light ; as they grow, add fresh soil till the bed is level. Peg the bines down as they grow. If a proper temperature and sweet dewy atmos- phere pervade the frame, they will never be troubled with insects or mildew ; but if they are chilled or over-heated these will soon follow. If mildew attack them, sprinkle with water and dust with sulphur ; if green fly or thrips, fumigate with tobacco. Cucumbers, Ridge, Marrows, &*e. — Now is the time for making a hotbed for sow- ing ridge cucumbers, vegetable marrows, tomatoes, capsicums, and such plants. Those who have hotbeds in operation may sow these seeds in pots, and put them FEBRUARY. 601 FEBRUARY. in the frames ; otherwise it is necessary to make a bed for them. Although it is advisable to get the dung or begin to prepare it this month, it is not desirable to sow the seed till March, and even the third or fourth week is time enough, for these cannot be planted in the open air till quite the latter end of May, unless hand- glasses are used to cover them, and they are planted in a little heat, when they may be trusted out earlier ; but March is quite early enough to raise them. Horseradish^ Mint> &e. — Some roots of mint may be potted and placed in a hot- bed. Some use them as salads. Horse- radish, dandelion, and chicory may be treated in the same way. All but mint should be blanched by covering from the light, for which purpose flower pots will do. Some parsley roots, potted up and placed in heat, may also be useful. Melons. — The directions given for cucum- bers apply equally to the, culture of melons ; but, before planting the latter, make the soil pretty firm. Melons require the same temperature as cucumbers, and great care as regards watering ; if too dry, they are apt to become infested with red spider ; if too wet, they are subject to canker. In the former case, apply sulphur, or syring- ing ; in the latter, apply soot about the collar. Set many fruits, but allow no more than two, or three at the most, to swell off at once ; and cut away, or raiher prevent, all superfluous growth, by pinching out every new shoot that is not wanted. Attend well to the application of fresh dung. Nothing can succeed unless the heat can be maintained. Potatoes, Frame. — It is now a good time to put some potatoes in a little heat An excellent plan is to pare the scil off an old cucumber or melon bed ; add 3 inches of fresh earth, then set the potatoes 15 inches or so apart, and cover with 5 inches or 6 inches more earth ; put on the lights, and then give a good lining of prepared dung ; this will cause heat, and the potatoes will root into the dung of the old bed and be very fine. Give them plenty of air, but never allow them to get frosted. Radishes. — Radishes, if sown now on a slight hotbed, will come in much earlier than those in cold frames. Seakale. — Some families like to have seakale in by Christmas ; but at whatever time it is in request, the process is the same. It may be forced in a frame or pit, or put in pots made for the purpose, having covers to exclude the light, and these pots placed in a frame, pit, or warm green- house. Seakale^ Forcing. — The most common method is to place seakale pots over the crowns, and cover these pots with ferment- ing dung or leaves. Leaves are the safest, if not in too great quantity, or mixed with grass which is too wet. If stable dung is used, it should be well prepared by turning and allowing the rank heat to pass off. Too great a heat is likely to destroy the crop for the season, and the plants per- manently. If left till March, the open ground culture is best. Then a little sand or ashes placed over the crowns, and bank- ing over as we would earth up celery, is sufficient. When the kale is fit to cut, it will be indicated by the plants. Strawberries. — Plants in pots placed in heat now will fruit in April ; they will want liquid manure occasionally to keep them in vigour. Plants in cold pits or frames should be looked over often, dead leaves picked out, slugs and other pests destroyed. Watering Plants in Hotbeds.— Water of the same temperature as the bed is ab- solutely necessary in watering cucumbers and melons, which should be done over the leaves, as well as at the roots, about twice or three times a week, which is as often as they are likely to want it. Still evapora- FEBRUARY. 602 FEBRUARY. tion proceeds, and it is sometimes necessary, therefore, to make good the consequent loss ; but in watering forcing beds a fine rose should be used, so that the surface of the soil be not beaten down in the process. The water should be of a temperature nearly equal to that of the bed — rather above than below ; and if liquid manure is used, it should be rather weak : for aspara- gus and seakale, a little salt, about a tea- spoonful to the gallon, may be advanta- geous. It is decidedly better to water effectually at once than to water little and often, because the latter is apt to keep the surface slimy and soddened, with no benefit to the plants, but rather the contrary. It is advisable to be cautious in watering forcing beds in the colder months, as a properly made-up bed should contain moisture in itself sufficient, or nearly so, to nourish it. February.— Hothouse, Work in. Maintain a temperature of from 60° to 65° fire heat. Start first batch of achimenes, gesnenas, gloxinias, &c. Prune plants of allamanda, dipladenia, clerodendron, &c. Pot Gloriosa superba during the month ; it thrives best plunged in a brisk bottom heat. Many ferns, begonias, and other plants should also be potted, and started into fresh growth. Some of the dendro. biums, stinhopeas, and maxillarias should now be watered and pushed into flower. forcing pit. — This is an indispensable adjunct to a well-kept conservatory, and should now be occupied with bulbs for succession, rhododendrons, azaleas, Ghent and Indian (most of which, especially Azalea Indica alba, force admirably), roses, lilacs, Anne Boleyn ; white and other pinks, carnations, cloves, &c. Main- tain at a genial growing ;emperature ol 55° to 65° ; on very cold nights, however, it may fall to 5° or IO° with impunity. Routine Work. — Prepare plenty of good peat and loam, broken potsherds, char- coal, &c., &c., for a general potting of all plants that require it. Hunt for and de- stroy mealy bug and scale, and maintain the semblance of health and reality of cleanliness throughout the whole of the plant structures. February. — Kitchen Garden, Work in. Artichokes^ Jerusalem. — This useful vegetable, an excellent accompaniment to roast beef when nicely boiled in milk, may be planted this month. The tubers should be set at a distance of 18 inches apart every way in any piece of waste land or corner of the garden that happens to be suitable for them. It is as well to appro- priate a special piece of land for their cultivation, because when they have been once planted it is difficult to get rid of them, owing to the growing of the young tubers which are left in the soil when the roots are taken up for use. Beans, Broad. — A sowing of any sort of these beans should be made this month, in order to provide for a proper succession of this crop. About the end of the month is the best time for getting in the main crop of this useful vegetable. They may be planted among early cabbages or between rows of potatoes. Beet) Red. — This root, familiarly known as beetroot, if sown now, will be very useful in the summer. Sow in drills 9 or 10 inches apart. Beet, White. — This may be sown now for the sake of the leaves, in the same manner as red beet. The leaves are used in summer as a substitute for spinach. Broccoli. — In time of frost, place a few boughs or some protective medium of this sort over broccoli. The plants should be frequently examined, and the leaves bent inwards over those that are showing bios- FEBRUARY. 603 FEBRUARY. som. Those that are fit for use should be cut as soon as ready. Cabbage Seeds to be Sown. — It is advis- able to sow under handglasses a little cabbage, of some quick-heading kind, as Early York or East Ham, or indeed any sort ; they will follow those which have stood the winter, and be very useful in July, August, and September. Some Brussels Sprouts may be sown ; also Purple Cape and Walcheren Broccoli, for autumn use. ^ Cabbages. — Look over the rows of cab- bages, and see if any are eaten by vermin. A dusting of lime when the ground is wet, or early in the morning, will destroy slugs. Another good plan at this time of the year is to let a few ducks into the kitchen garden for half an hour or so every morning ; they will destroy immense quantities of slugs, snails, worms, and grubs. Replace all the plants that have been destroyed by frost or otherwise, and draw earth up to the stems. Carrots. — Short-horn carrots, if sown on a warm border now, will come into use in May, and be very sweet and good. Sow rather thickly, and thin to two inches apart. Cauliflowers. — These, which will be under handglasses, should have all the air, sun, and light possible, and gentle showers in mild weather, where they are protected from frost, cold winds, or heavy rains. Dust them also occasionally with lime, to destroy slugs, and stir the earth about the roots. Crops, Distribution of Ground to. — The advantage of having early crops is great, but they should be proportioned to the extent of room, the time they last, or the wants of the family. A square rod of ground will generally be sufficient for early sowings of most of the principal crops, but herbs and salads will do with less, and it is best to look forward to what is to be done during the whole season, and calculate to a nicety what can be grown on every part without wasting room, or crowding or over- cropping, and exhausting the soil beyond the power of manure to restore it. It may seem advisable to make early use of the ground, and get it three-parts cropped in February ; but in May and June it will be seen that a fatal error has been committed. Horseradish. — The smallest piece of the pungent acrid root known as horseradish will grow, but it is better to set the crown with a small portion of the root attached to it. The ground must be dug very deeply, and the sets placed in rows about 1 8 inches apart and 9 inches from each other in the rows. Deep holes are made in the newly-dug earth at these distances, and the sets dropped into them ; after which the holes are filled up with sand. Lettuces and Small Salading. — Lettuces should be sown now for succession. Mus- tard and cress may be sown under hand- glasses. American cress, which is much the same as watercress, may also be sown on a sunny border ; it is very useful for salading, and easily cultivated. Lettuces in the open ground under walls should be protected against injury from slugs, birds, &c. Onions and Leeks. — Onions for salading may be sown on a warm border. A small sowing of leeks may be made at the same time and in the same manner, but not quite so thick. The ground for the main crops should now be thoroughly trenched and heavily manured, the surface being left rough so that the frost may act upon it. A top dressing of soot once a fortnight, or even oftener if the weather be rainy, will have a very groat effect upon the onion crop, and will prove an effectual remedy against the maggot at the root, which so often destroys the entire crop, especially on highly-manured land. Some will sow onions in February ; and later in the season, when they are large enough, they FEBRUARY. 604 FEBRUARY. will transplant them from the seed bed to the prepared ground. It is far better to sow in drills, and then to thin the crop at intervals, for the thinnings are always useful as salading, &c. Parsley. — This may be sown in drills, or broadcast, or as edgings, or between dwarf or short-lived crops. The seed should be but slightly covered, trodden or pressed in, according to the state of the soil, and raked evenly. It takes several weeks to germinate at this season of the year. Peas. — Crops which are advancing should be earthed up, both to protect and strengthen them. A dusting now and then with lime will protect from birds and mice ; or white worsted stretched along the rows will do so, if rightly managed. Dwarf peas may always be grown advan- tageously where sticks are an object, and these may be sown closer together ; but where sticks or hurdles can be obtained, it is no saving to grow without them, for the taller sorts, which grow six or eight feet high, bear most enormously if in good soil and mulched. Peas, Protettion of. — One way of pro- tecting peas by lines of cotton or worsted is to have some half-circular pieces of board, a foot wide, with pegs nailed to them to thrust into the ground ; then have five or six small nails on the upper edge at regular distances ; these are fixed into the ground at each end of the row, and as many lines of worsted as there are nails passed over the peas. This covers them completely in. Others lay branchy sticks over them. Some sow rather thickly and leave them fully exposed, affirming that by allowing for loss, the others are not drawn up, thus avoiding more covering than is necessary to insure a good crop. Pot Herbs. — Chervil may be sown about the end of this month, and also other pot herbs, as savory, marjoram, coriander, and hyssop ; unless it is desired to have them very early, however, it is as well to defer sowing these till next month. They are mostly very slow in germinating. Potato Onions, Shallots, &c. — The bulbs may now be set for multiplication by off- sets in ground not too heavily manured. Shallots should be set in rows 12 inches apart, 8 inches between each plant, and 2 inches below the soil. Potato onions should be placed at the same depth, but the distance between the rows should be 15 inches, and between the sets 9 inches. Potatoes, Early. — These may be planted on a south border, or under a wall having a sunny aspect. At this time it is well to plant middling-sized tubers whole. The early tops are apt to get cut off by spring frosts ; but they bear none the less for it, and they may be recovered, if not too severely frozen, by watering with cold water before the sun is up. When plant- ing at this season, it is better to place the tubers at a depth of 6 inches below the surface, and, if the weather be very frosty, to spread thick litter or boughs over the ground. It assists very much to throw the ground up in ridges running east and west, and to plant on the south side of the ridge. Radishes. — In mild, open weather, a sowing of radish is made ; and to protect them from birds and frost cover lightly with straw or fern, uncovering the beds occasionally in mild weather. Although they are best when sown in frames, they do very well on a warm border. Rhubarb. — Fresh plantations of rhubarb may be made now, the roots being placed at least a yard apart every way, if more than one row of roots is wanted. Routine Work. — The operations in the kitchen garden in February will depend very much on the weather, and must be regulated by it. It is useless to attempt to dig, plant, and sow in wet weather, for the ground will cling in masses to the feet of FEBRUARY. 605 FEBRUARY. the workman, and the time spent in the vain attempt will be altogether lost. The hand of the gardener must be withheld until drier weather prevails and the surface of the soil is fairly dry. Then no time must be lost in preparing the ground for, and getting in, the crops for the coming season. Continue to wheel manure on to vacant ground, and get all digging, trench- ing, and in fact all ground work, as for- ward as possible, bearing in mind that much of the success of the season depends upon it ; and how important it is to have the ground prepared a week or two before cropping, especially where it is heavy or retentive, for none but a practised work- man can appreciate the advantage of having the surface in that finely pulverised condition that follows sharp frost and dry- ing winds. Seakale. — This may be planted now in the open ground, the plants being set 15 inches apart in rows 30 inches from each other. Scorzoneras, Salsafy, Hamburg Parsley, &c. — A little of each of these may be sown now, but it is as well to defer sowing main crops of these things till next month. Seeds, How to Sow. — If the ground is in condition for treading, it is best to do so, as, indeed, it is with nearly all seeds ; but if the ground is apt ta clod or bind, it should by no means be trodden, but covered with light soil or pressed in with the rake. The ground, in such cases, should be marked into beds of convenient width, allowing a foot or fifteen inches between, for alleys, to stand in, never treading on the beds. This comes naturally enough after a little practice ; but experience is a dear school to learn in, and the most inexperienced, by following some such directions, may avoid failure as certainly as the most practised. Some gardeners, whose ground is limited, are in the habit of sowing parsley, carrots, onions, leeks, or some such crop, which takes longer to grow, along with radishes, sowing both together, the radishes coming off soon after the others are up. This may be a saving of time or room ; but where there is plenty of space it is not advisable to sow two crops together, but let every crop have the best chance of doing well. Seeds, Protection of. — Chaffinches are very fond of pulling up radish and other seeds as they appear through the ground ; so that they should not be left unprotected. Netting stretched over them will admit light and air, and exclude the birds ; white worsted will keep them off for a day or two, but they soon get used to it, and scarecrows are equally ineffective. A covering of tiffany, canvas, or calico, stretched on laths, will be effective, and resist March winds more than straw or fern ; they need be but a few inches from the ground. February. — Orchard House, Work in. Orchard houses should stand open night and day, unless during severe frosts. Plants in pots must not, however, be allowed to become too dry, because dryness at the roots of trees weakens the buds and renders them less capable of proper expansion under the influence of the rising sap when it reaches them. The trees will benefit if painted over with a similar composition to that recommended in p. 210 for vines. This would tend to prevent the attacks of insects, kill all moss and fungi, and render the buds safe from the ravages of birds, which often play sad havoc with trees in orchard houses. It is a good plan to look through every part of the house at this time of year before the buds break, and clean it in every part, fumigating it and applying an infusion of Gishurst's Compound in the proportion of £lb. to 2 gallons of water to walls and trees. in order to get rid of insects that mighr MARCH. 606 MARCH. otherwise prove troublesome as the year advances. February.— Shrubbery. Pointing Ground. — Where digging has to be performed, it should assume the character of pointing. Among shrubs, this operation should be performed by running the spade along the whole length, about 3 inches beneath the surface, and inverting it. This process buries the leaves and rubbish without injuring the roots. Treatment of Shrubs. — Push forward the digging and clearing of shrubberies. The great point in the management of shrub- beries, however, is so to plant, prune, and train the shrubs, as to / encbr these •operations unnecessary. The raw edges and masses of bare soil that render digging and cleaning an injurious necessity, also mar the beauty and grandeur of masses of •shrubs. As a rule, their branches should sweep the edges of the turf, and the culture of herbaceous plants should never be at- tempted among them. The growth of rshrubs should also be regulated by pruning and training as the cleaning proceeds. Common laurels and lilacs will often be found overriding rhododendrons or other shrubs. The most worthless should always be removed or boldly cut in. Rhododen-' drons are often very effective as margins to masses of other shrubs, and they are invaluable in groups by themselves. No collection of shrubs is complete without .them. MARCH. Aspect and Character of Month. The increased temperature during this month is chiefly observable during the day ; it is still variable, advancing, as it were, by starts ; but the mean tem- perature of the month is about six degrees higher than February, although the ther- mometer ranges from 28° to 53°, including the night and day temperature, the mean maximum being 49° 9', and the mean minimum 40° 49'. March. — C onservatory, Work in. Camellias. — Camellias in full flower in the conservatory must not be too liberally watered at the roots ; although during the expansion of a heavy crop of buds, the demand on their roots is very great. Clear, weak manure water will excite them gently; it must, however, be both clear and weak, or it will do harm rather than good, for they seem to have no power of assimilating ^ross food. The blossoms must on no account be rubbed, touched, or wetted ; they show at once any bruise or spot of water on their clear and distinct and deli- cate petals. Two buds can scarcely be held in the hand at the same time without injury. In cutting the flowers, therefore, each should be placed separate in a basket divided into small compartments, or in pots filled with sand. Inarching. — Immediately after camellias have flowered is the best time for inarching any indifferent or worthless variety with a good sort. The operation of inarching is very simple. Merely partly cut through the bark into both stock and branch, and unite the wounded parts, binding them tightly together, and fix them securely in one spot, excluding the air from the united part : in two months they will be united for better or worse. At this time, cut the head off the stock, and leave it a few weeks longer to make sure that the junc- tion is perfect. Then cut off the branch, and place the stock with its new head amongst the others as an independent plant. The operation is now completed. Large bunches from 3 inches to 3 feet high MARCH. 607 MARCH. can be attached in this manner, in the course of three months, and most valuable j plants secured at once. The stock and ! branch must always, however, bear a I proper relation to each other, and the latter, as a rule, should never exceed the i former in thickness. Temperature, — The interest and beauty of this house will now increase day by day. Let a minimum temperature of 45° be maintained, allowing for a rise of 10° from sun heat, and give as much air as the state of the weather and the mainten- ance of a kindly, genial atmosphere will permit. The less fire heat that is used, the longer will the flowers continue in blossom ; therefore, in very cold weather, suffer a depression of 5° from the above, rather than increase by artificial heat. Keep the heating apparatus cool in the morning if there is the slightest chance of bright sunshine. Nothing destroys flowers so fast as the sun shining upon a house while the pipes or flues are also in opera- tion ; this remark applies to all heated flue structures, although specially so to conser- I vatories. Flowers reveal its effects sooner, ! but it is doubtful if they suffer more from j this cause than other plants in full growth. In the one case, the effect is apparent at once, in showers of dead flowers ; in the other, it is hidden for months, but not the ] less potent and injurious, except on dull, wet days, than when fires are necessary to expel damp and maintain the temperature while air is freely admitted. Lay it down as a rule that the conservatory fire is drawn right out, or shut off by the valves when that cannot be done, on every morning promising sunshine. March.— Flower Garden, Work in. Anemones. — Prepare a piece of ground in the reserve garden for sowing anemone seed ; Anemone hortensis* A. coronarta. and A. rectifolia, are the most useful varieties. Rub the seed clean in sand ; sow in shallow drills 9 inches apart, and cover with fine sifted leaf mould and sand. Annuals, Winter-sown. — Stir the soil among these in the reserve garden, and transplant them, weather permitting, to their quarters in the {"lower garden in which they are desired to bloom. Bedding Plants, Beds for. — Enrich the hooped beds designed for the temporary protection of bedding plants next month with a liberal dressing of manure, and get everything in readiness that the approaching busy season will demand. Bedding Plants, Protecting. — It is always desirable to get bedding plants out as early as possible, and yet there is much danger both from wind and frost in so doing. It is an excellent plan to stick sprays of ever- greens, Scotch and spruce firs, in different parts of the bed as a protection. By this means the force of the wind is broken, and the plants take hold of the ground sooner ; the tender leaves also are saved, which otherwise not unfrequently turn brown, and fall off, retarding the growth of the plants. Biennials and Perennials. — Get ground in readiness for a general sowing of all biennials and perennials next month. The oftener it is forked over, the more thoroughly pulverised it will be ; con- sequently, the better adapted for raising seeds of every description. Carnations, Pinks, &c. — Carnations and picotees should now, if the weatner is mild, be placed in their blooming pots, and sheltered under glass during bad weather. They should be potted nrmly, care being taken to keep the soil out of the axils of the leaves. Pinks in pots or open borders should be top dressed with a mixture of fine loamy soil and half- rotter- manure. MARCH. 608 MARCH. Climbers, Pruning. — Complete pruning and training clematises, jasmines, big- nonias, and other creepers on trellises. Floiuers in Bloom. — Crocuses are now in full glory, and a brilliant display they make ; while tulips, narcissi, crown im- perials, cyclamens, ixias, scillas, and hyacinths hasten forward to uphold the matchless supremacy of bulbs as the most beautiful of all spring flowers. The double- blossom furze, deciduous yellow jasmines, scarlet ribes, almonds, heaths, daphnes, snowy mespilus, Magnolia conspicua, holly-leaved berberry, saxifrages, orobus, calycanthus, &c., &c., weave a floral garland of which any month, not except- ing June even, might be proud. Gladioli. — This is the proper month for planting all the hardy gladoli. If they were taken up in November and kept in a proper temperature, they will now be starting, and should be planted at once, They grow well in any light, rich garden soil. In growing them en masse, drills should be drawn on beds or borders about 4 inches deep, the bulbs in- serted, and covered over with the soil. Stakes about 2 feet high should be put in at the same time, as, if inserted afterwards, they might injure the bulbs. The distance between the bulbs should be from nine inches to a foot. Nothing can exceed their brilliancy when in flower. They present a beautiful appearance when in flower if planted in lines or in clumps of three, but in this case the three corms should be of the same colour. Grass Lawns, Walks, &c. — The increase of floral beauty in all parts of the garden points out our duty and defines the routine work for the month. The more beauty in the garden, the better it must be kept ; for slovenliness and dirt are never so intolerably hideous and unbearable as when seen in juxtaposition with their opposites. Therefore, grass lawns must be frequently swept and rolled; gravel walks turned, fresh gravelled, raked, rolled, and swept; edgings cut, planted, or altered; and all planting pruning, and digging finished as soon as possible. This is also a good season to remove plantains and daisies from the turf, and to sow grass seeds for new lawns. If the weather be mild, grass lawns and verges may have a first mowing during the month. Herbaceous Borders and Flower Beds. — Fork over flower beds on frosty mornings, to expose a fresh surface to the atmosphere, and provide a finely pulverised soil for the roots of bedding plants. Stir the surface by flat hoeing, or deep raking among borders of annuals and bulbs. Remove all prunings and winter rubbish, to be either rotted or charred, and see that the entire garden has a cared-for appear- ance. Hyacinths, Tulips, &c.— Tulips in beds must be protected from severe frosts, and crocuses from the depredations of birds. Hyacinths and narcissi should be tied to short sticks, so that the blooms may not be broken down by the wind. Roses. — Finish planting all hardy roses at once, if bloom is expected this season. The excited state of the shoots from a mild winter must not arouse impatience to finish pruning. The more excited they are, there is the greater necessity for delay, as the expenditure of the sap in the terminal buds will preserve the buds near the base of the shoots the longer in a dormant state ; and it is upon these buds we are dependent for next year's blossom. Towards the end of the month, per- petual roses may be pruned. In pruning roses, it must be remembered, as a general rule, that it is the weakest growers that must receive the most severe pruning, because their bearing powers are con- siderably less than those of the strong MARCH. 609 MARCH. growers. Look to the stakes and sup- ports to see that they are firm and sound, and look to the ties as well ; point the borders in which roses are growing, and give a top dressing of well- rotted manure if necessary. Nothing but roses should be allowed to grow in rose borders, as the presence of any other flower will absorb plant food, which otherwise would go to the roses, which want all the nourishment they can get. Seeds, Protection of. — Protect seeds from birds, which are most destructive just as the seeds are vegetating. Ten- Week Stocks. — Prepare a sunny bed in the reserve garden, and sow ten-week stocks for succession to those already raised in heat. March.— Fruit Garden and Or- chard, Work in. Apples and Pears. — Pruning these should now be finished, and this is the last month for planting until the autumn ; the various operations of grafting and budding are now in full progress. This is especially the season for crown grafting, where it is de- sired to use some vigorous old tree bearing an indifferent fruit. In this case, the grafts should be taken from the trees before the buds begin to swell. There should be no delay in setting about the operation of grafting wherever it is to be carried into effect. Trees that are most forward should be treated first, and these will be found to be the cherries and plums, for which graft- ing is as well as budding, though many are of opinion that all trees bearing stone fruits are better budded than grafted. Apricots. — The apricot, the fruit of which is held in such high estimation, has a ten- dency to die prematurely — first a branch, then a side, until scare a vestige remains of the tree ; and this generally occurs on fine sunny days in spring and early summer — supposed to arise from the sap vessels being excited too early and rising too rapidly ; so that they are in too watery a state to resist the severe frosts which sometimes follow. Every possible protection should be given to these delicate trees, and, perhaps, plant- ing them in a border, where they would be less exposed to the action of the sun, would help to retard the rising of the sap till the season was more advanced. Bush Fruit, New Plantations of. — In making new plantations, place the bushes 8 feet apart each way, if in continuous rows ; if intended to be placed round the quarters, or to divide the ground in compartments, prune them up to a clean stem 12 or 14 inches high ; otherwise the foliage will im- pede the growth of the crops sown beneath them. The best mode of growing goose- berries is as espaliers or as standards. If grown as standards in the form of a low bush, the bushes should be trained 3 feet high before they are suffered to form a head. According to the ordinary system of training, the branches are borne to the ground by the weight of the fruit, and its bloom is destroyed by being draggled on the soil and splashed by heavy rains. Blossoms of Wall Trees. — Birds that fre- quent the garden, or, at all events, the smaller kinds of these birds, are credited with doing much mischief with a will to the buds and blossoms of all fruit-trees. Injury from this cause may be obviated by sprinkling the buds, &c,, liberally with dry soot applied with a dredger. Cherries and Plums. — With the excep- tion of pruning, grafting, and taking pre- cautions to protect the buds and blossoms from the ill effects of inclement weather and the attacks of birds, nothing is wanted for these trees but the ordinary routine work. Currant and Gooseberry Bushes bear on the young as well as on the two-year-old wood, generally upon small spurs rising 40 MARCH. 610 MARCH. along the side of the branches. In autumn or winter, when digging between the bushes, sow fresh-slaked lime copiously over the whole ground, more particularly round the stems and about the roots, before forking it over. About the latter end of March repeat) the operation, raking the ground afterwards. In a fortnight or three weeks this liming should be repeated, and, except under extreme circumstances, no future attacks from caterpillars need be apprehended. Currant and Gooseberry Bushes, Prun- ing.— In pruning gooseberry- trees, for which January is a favourable season, keep the tree thin of branches ; but let those left be trained to some regular shape, and never permitted to grow ramblingly across each other, but radiating in a cup-like form from their common centre, so as to be 6 or 8 inches apart at the extremities and hollow in the centre. Prune out all worn-out branches, retaining young shoots to supply their places, retaining also, where practic- able, a terminable bud to each branch while shortening long stragglers. The same remarks apply to currant-trees. Young gooseberry- trees designed for standards should be pruned back to a clean stem for IO or 12 inches, retaining the best properly placed shoots to form the head, cutting out all irregularly placed shoots, keeping them, as nearly as possible, of the same length and form. Filberts. — At this time of year, while the male flowers, familiarly known as "catkins," are in blossom, the trees or bushes should be shaken frequently, in order that the small female blossoms may be fertilised by the pollen that falls on them from the former. Grafting, how done. — The stock should be in an active state before the scion or graft, which has all the better chance if it remain dormant till the last moment. In (act, the buds of the scion should not be showing signs of swelling before the oper- ation of grafting is completed. The cuts should be clean, as they will be if they are made with a keen knife. The cut parts of stock and scion should be brought into contact immediately after the cut is made, taking care that the cambium or inner bark of the one is brought into con- tact with the cambium of the other. This done, the stock and scion must be bound together firmly, but not so tightly as to bruise or injure the back in any way, and the whole plastered over with a mixture of clay and cow dung, or some kind of grafting wax, to exclude the air from the recently cut surfaces. Nectarines and Peaches. — The same may be said with reference to these trees, whose pruning and nailing, as it has been said, should be left until the last. Protection. — To those who will be guided by reason, we say, Apply the most efficient protection within your reach to the blossoms of apricots, peaches and other wall fruit. This will probably be found in temporary wood copings, projecting 10 or 12 inches from the wall, with canvas blinds attached, which can be readily removed in fine weather ; next to the coping, worsted netting is, perhaps, the most efficient de- fence against severe weather, with the least obstruction to the necessary circulation of air, light, and rain. Those who have blinds will do well to use them, not only against frost, but against the extreme ardour of the noon-day sun, which will at once retard and strengthen their blossom. Strawberries. — Such sorts as British Queens, hitherto protected, should be un- covered now, and the beds weeded and the plants trimmed ; the soil stirred round the roots with a fork without disturbing the dung. Runners placed in a nursery bed last autumn should now be removed to where they are to remain for fruiting. Strawberries, Large Sized. — Where fruit MARCH. 611 MARCH. of a large size are required, open a trench, as if for celery, filled half up with well- rotted dung, and dig it well into the bottom of the trench, and fill in the soil previously taken out, and plant immedi- ately. When they are planted between dwarf fruit-trees, it is good practice to keep each plant or stool separate for the first two years, and then allow them to cover the ground. Where plants have been growing in the same place for several years, weed the beds well before they begin to grow, stir the soil, and sow some guano over them in showery weather. Trained Trees, — Trained trees not al- ready disposed of should now be pruned and dressed at once ; to delay till the buds swell is to endanger them in the process. In all cases, plums and cherries should be taken first ; then the early pears, and after- wards late pears. Peaches and nectarines should always be left till the last. Washing Trees, &c. — Generally speak- ing, the pruning and nailing will be finished, but the trees should be washed with the garden engine or syringe, using tepid water, with solution of sulphur and soot, or lime wash, as a protection against scale and other insects. March.— Glasshouses for Fruit, &c. Moistiire. — March winds are not only cold, but dry, In fact, in mercy to the comfort of men and the well-being of plants, it has been ordained that the colder the air the drier it is. This fact renders it of the utmost importance that every space in forcing houses should be kept damp during bright weather in the spring month. The inside air is not only to be warm, but it must be kept moist. Every particle of outside air admitted becomes charged with humidity, exhausting the moisture so necessary to the existence of the plants, extracting the water out of the leaves, and leaving them thin, dry, and parched. Lay it down, then, as a principle of universal application, that the less of the cold air admitted this month, consistent with the maintenance of a proper temperature and a change of atmosphere in the house, the better, and that the more you are compell id to admit, the more water must be used fo supply the demand that cold air makes 1 01 water. This principle reduced to practhe will secure in every plant structure at s.ll times that greatest of all cultural desiderata, a genial, kindly growing atmosphere. Nectarines, drv.— The instructions given for the management of peaches apply equally to nectarines and all fruit of this class subjected to forcing under glass. Peaches. — Guard against sudden or great variations of temperature and cutting draughts ; and syringe morning and even- ing as soon as the fruit is set. Begin to disbud the more forward woodbuds, leav- ing the strongest and best-placed shoots. This disbudding should be done very gradually: say at five or six periods, during the early stages of growth. Early peaches, after they are stoned, will bear a temperature of 70° with safety. They should be exposed to all the light and air possible, consistent with the principles enunciated in the preface to these instrur tions. Finery. — Many of the fruiting plants will not be showing flower. Maintain a minimum temperature of 70°, allowing a rise of 10° or 15° in the sun, and a rather diy atmosphere, until the blooming period is over. Drip, or too much water on the blossom, will prevent it setting. Unless it set, that pip will not swell, and one pip vacant in a pine destroys the beauty and symmetry of the finest fruit. Water -w ith water at 80° immediately after potting, to prevent the roots receiving a check fiom the cold soil, and maintaining a nice gr iw ing heat of 65° to 70°. MARCH. 612 MARCH. Ventilation. — March is a peculiarly try- ing month for forcing. The extreme change- fcbleness of the weather, varying almost every hour, from the fiercest sunshine to the bitterest cold, and both these forces to contend against at once, render the utmost attention necessary. This is the more essential, as at this season the young foliage and fruit are so easily injured. Perfect ventilation may be said to consti- tute the main feature of successful cultiva- tion throughout the month. The powerful rays of the sun cmopel us to give air ; the keen withering wind says, Do it at your peril. Both must be obeyed ; but a skilful balance, resulting in a genial atmosphere, must be struck between these contending forces. The moment, too, that one ceases to act, the other must be checked. Does a genial, mild March day for once occur, then you have only to guard against the sun's rays. Is there no sunshine, then you have the cold air only to combat. This principle must be applied to hours and minutes, as well as days. The moment a black cloud intervenes between your glass and the sun, the air must be excluded ; no sooner does the sun emerge from the other side, than air must be admitted. Hence the extraordinary attention required and labour involved in ventilating houses during the month. Vinery. — Grapes in Marly Stages. — The above remarks are peculiarly applicable to grape vines in the early stages of their growth. When fully expanded, the leaves will bear the strongest sun, and exposure to a cold air in the autumn, without incon- venience ; but when young, they are very easily injured. The earliest grapes may now be stoning. Don't attempt to hurry them during this process ; for, in the first place, you will not succeed, and, in the second, you will certainly weaken the vines. This process occurs when the grapes are about three parts grown, and often causes vexation and disappointment to young beginners. The grapes make no visible progress for six weeks or two months. They are, however, progressing within, forming their seeds, or stoning, as it is technically called. A temperature of 60° at night is enough until this work is completed. Vines should gradually be disbudded, if necessary, when the shoots have attained a length of 2 or 3 inches. By doing this the vine grower is enabled to retain the best for future bearings. Vinery. — Syringing and Ventilation. — The utmost care should be taken to prevent draught, especially a thorough draught passing right through the house. To in- sure this, ventilators should never be opened at opposite sides of the house at the same time — that is to say, the top and bottom ventilators, or front and back ventilators, should never be open at the same time. The surface of the floor should be sprinkled several times in the course of the day with a watering pot fitted with a fine rose, and the vines should be syringed twice daily. The most suitable hours for syringing are between 8 and 9 a.m. and between 4 and 5 p.m. March.— Greenhouse, Work in. Azaleas and Camellias should be shifted into larger pots, either as soon as they have flowered or when the new growth is formed. Care must be taken not to allow any water to fall on the petals of camellia flowers, for their beauty and brilliancy is consider- ably marred thereby. And they must be sedulously kept out of draughts. Calceolarias. — Thin out the worst of the crowded leaves ; peg down the shoots to increase the strength of the plants, and sow seed for next year. Cinerarias. — Keep clean, remove de- cayed leaves, and throw away all but the most choice varieties as soon as they have finished flowering. Save the best sorts MARCH. 613 MARCH. for seed or suckers, and sow seed at once for the earliest plants. Climbing Plants. — These must be neatly tied in as they grow, and nicely trained to suit the position in which they are placed. Fuchsias. — These must be shifted now, and stopped and got into shape, as neces- sity may require and direct. Heaths. — The preceding remarks on potting are applicable to heaths as well as to other free-growing, hard-wooded plants. The potting of all the specimens in the house should now be proceeded with in accordance with the instructions given. Pelargoniums. — These, whether show, fancy, or zonal, will now require careful training. Remove every dead leaf, thin out superfluous shoots, and keep the plants scrupulously clean. Maintain a tempera- ture of 50° to 55° ; syringe on fine, bright mornings. If the weather is fine towards the end of the month, sprinkling may be repeated in the afternoon, and the house shut up about four o'clock. Keep the plants close to the glass, and admit air in quantity proportioned to the mildness of the external air. Tie into shape, stop and shift plants for the latest bloom, and put in the toppings for cuttings. Fancy pelargoniums require the same general treatment, but even more care in ventila- tion and watering. Scarlet and variegated geraniums require shifting, training, and stopping. Shifting Plants. — Proceed with the shift- ing of all plants requiring it. Free-grow- ing plants, such as leschenauitias, boronias, &c., may be treated on what is termed the one-shift system, provided they are very healthy and the after treatment is skilful. They require turfy peat, well coloured with gritty silver sand, and a fourth part of clean leaf mould. Much of the dirty putrid water and tannin that is used under this designation is enough to kill most plants, and is certain death to hard-wooded species. Therefore, unless the leaf mould is really good, add none to your compost for hard -wooded plants. Temperature. — The temperature of the greenhouse during March may range from 45° to 50°. In fine, open, sunny weather air may be freely admitted ; but it is better to let the temperature of the house run up even to 65° or 70° under the influence of the sun's rays than to run the risk of chill- ing the plants by letting a rush of air too cold for them into the house, with the view of lowering the temperature. In March, as well in April and even May, a hot sun with a cold wind too often prevails. Want of Shade. — When plants appear to wilt, as the Americans have it, or, in other words, to droop, the drooping is caused rather through want of shade than want of water. Over-much watering is good for no plants, except sub-aquatic plants. Hard-wooded plants, such as heaths, camellias, azaleas, &c., require more watering when they are growing than when they are flowering. A too copious supply of water when about to flower, or when flowering, often makes the camellia cast its buds. Soft-wooded plants, such as fuchsias, geraniums, &c., grow and bloom at one and the same time. Watering. — The plants will begin to look out for more water now, as the sun gains power, and a moist and genial atmosphere should be maintained by sprinkling the path, &c., with water, rather than by watering the plants themselves too much, and, worst than all, letting water fall on the leaves. March.— Hotbeds, Frames, &c., Work in. Annuals ', Half-hardy. — If the frame has been prepared as recommended last month, lose no time in sowing half-hardy annuals. A second sowing may be made next MARCH. 614 MARCH. month, of which a descriptive list will be found in page 12. The following cultural directions will be found useful : — Place a layer of 4 inches of leaf mould on the top of the hotbed, then a layer of the same depth of fine sifted soil, consisting of equal parts loam, leaf mould, peat, and sand. Sow the seeds in drills, formed about a quarter of an inch deep, with the point of a stick (for very small seeds £ of an inch will suffice). Carefully sow, label, and cover the seeds as you proceed. If the soil was in a proper medium state in refer- ence to moisture, and it is shaded from the midday sun, no water will be necessary until the seeds appear. The frame must not be allowed to rise above 45° to 50°, and should never sink below 40°. The atmosphere should be changed daily by the admission of air, and the surface of the soil looked over frequently, to see if any mould or fungus is making its appearance on the sur- face of the soil. This must be at once removed, and the spots where it appeared dusted over with quicklime. With proper treatment, most of the plants will appear in from a week to a fortnight of the time of sowing. Asparagus — Slight hotbeds should still be made for forcing asparagus, or the roots may be placed on an old bed ; the old lining removed, and fresh but prepared linings applied to give the necessary heat. If they are forced in a pit, let the dung be well worked, laid in carefully, levelled and beaten down, and filled high enough to allow for sinking. At this time of the year no other heat. than that supplied by the dung in the pit will be necessary ; for late spring forcing, brick pits are preferable, on account of their cleanliness. Auriculas. — As the power of the sun increases, if the weather continues mild, these plants might now have the benefit of warm showers. The light should be drawn off daily on fine days. When the weather is rough and boisterous, avoid cutting draughts. See that the plants have plenty of water, as they will now be throwing up their flower stems. The plunging material may be sprinkled, to keep up a moist, genial atmosphere. Cover up securely from frost, and shade for a few hours on bright days ; take off offsets, and insert in a close frame ; water with care until rooted. Plants intended for showing should have seven pips as level as possible, round and well shaped ; any ill-shaped small pips may be cut off to avoid crowding. Balsams. — These beautiful flowers, with coxcombs, thunbergias, rhodanthes, primu- las, &c., may now be sown in pits or frames. Capsicums, Tomatoes, &c. — These may be raised in the same manner as directed for vegetable marrows. They may be eventually planted out under a south wall, or grown on and ripened in pots, frame, pit, or greenhouse during the summer. Calceolarias. — Cuttings of these kept in cold pits during the winter for bedding out purposes in the summer should have plenty of air daily when the temperature is above 40°, by withdrawing, during the day, the light by which they are covered. The tops should be pinched off to encourage the formation of side shoots, and to render them strong bushy plants for flowering. Cucumbers. — Where cucumbers have not already been started, it should be done now, as formerly described, the manure being shaken and turned over three or four times ; for on this everything depends, the heat lasts longer, and the plants are not exposed to violent and irregular heating. When the bed is made, some gardeners recommend its being left a short time to settle before putting on the frame and lights, in order to prevent violent heating and rapid sinking, from the additional weight of the frame ; but if the bed has been well turned and beaten down in the MARCH. 615 MARCH. process of making this will hardly be neces- sary. If the frame is not put on at once, however, it is advisable to cover the bed with litter or mats, in case of heavy rains, which would reduce the temperature of the bed. Dahlias, Cuttings from. — This is the best month for increasing dahlias by cut- tings. If the old stools were placed in a warm pit or house, as recommended last month, cuttings 3 or 4 inches long may now be secured. Cut them off close to the stem, if you can find as many as you want by this mode ; if not, leave one or two eyes on the old stool, and in another week these eyes will furnish two, four, or six more cuttings. Place them in light sandy soil ; plunge the pots in a bottom heat of 80° and a top heat of 60° ; in a week or ten days they will be rooted. The white, scarlet, yellow, and purple bedding sorts should be placed into heat, where an increase of stock is required. The dwarf whites will be found to be much more difficult to increase than the other colours ; nothing can look richer than rows of these dwarf dahlias in ribbon borders, or groups of them in front of shrubberies. Hotbeds, Maintenance of. — At this time, as formerly, dung beds must be lined with prepared dung, to maintain the heat ; for any decline below the point of safety, which is about 70°, will check the growth of the plants, and throw them back considerably. This applies to the culture of cucumbers and melons, and of forcing plants generally ; but, in the case of plants which are to be turned out later in the season, it is neces- sary to inure them, by a gradual decrease in that of the frame, to the natural tempera- ture of the air. Hotbeds ; Te?nperature of. — After the frame is on, place a bushel of loamy soil under centre of each light — too much soil at once would induce too much heat. It is an old fashioned but safe plan to thrust a pointed stick into the bed. By drawing it out occasionally, the temperature of the bed can be ascertained by feeling it ; if more exactness is desired, a ground ther- mometer might be plunged into it. If the plants have been raised in a temporary bed, they may be planted five or six days after the bed is made ; they will thus be ready to start into active growth at once. If no plants are ready, sow two "seeds each in 3-inch pots, only half filled with soil at first, and add fresh soil as the plants grow. The soil in which they are to grow should be rather coarse, and by no means sifted. The after treatment is the same as that described in January. Melons. — This is a good time to make, up hotbeds for melons, to ripen in June and J uly. The soil should be put into the frame at once to the depth of 8 or 10 inches, and trodden or pressed rather firmly, if the dung has been carefully turned and the bed well beaten down in the making. Two plants should be planted under each light, the vines radiating from the centre ; or place them further apart, and train the vines back and front, picking off all super- fluous soil, and leaving only sufficient to nourish the fruit. Melon s, Sowing Seeds. — Where a cucumber or melon bed is in full operation, the other seeds may be sown in pots, and placed in them ; and when up, repotted, and grown till the beds destined for them are ready : a great saving of time and material is thus effected. Where a good sort is growing, which it is desired to increase, it may either be done by plunging some pots filled with soil, and laying shoots of the vines into them, or by taking off cuttings, and placing three or four round the edge of a pot ; they will strike root readily in about the time it takes to raise plants from seed, and bear rather quicker than seedlings. Mint, Parsley ', &c. — Some roots of mint and parsley planted in this month in a hot- MARCH. 616 MARCH. bed will soon produce young shoots or leaves available for culinary purposes. Radishes, Salading, &*c. — Radishes may still be sown in frames or in the open air. Mustard and cress should be sown for succession every week. Chicory planted in a hotbed and blanched by excluding the light will be founc1 useful as salad- ing. Seakah, Potatoes, French Beans, &*c. — The same means as those prescribed for forcing asparagus may be also taken for the vegetables named here. Strawberries. — Advantage may be taken of frames and hotbeds which are not in im- mediate use, or which are not completely filled by other tenants, for forcing some strawberry plants and procuring some fruit at an earlier period than that at which they will have ripened in the open ground. There is no better position for these plants during winter than the floor of an orchard house, cool, dry, and free from frost, which preserves them in a healthy, dormant state. They may now be looked over, top dressed, raked, and plunged in a pit with a bottom heat of 50°, giving air in sufficient quantity, dry and bright, to keep the top for another fortnight at 40° to 45°. This will secure a root action in advance of the top ; so that when the top moves and the trusses appear, plenty of active roots may be ready to minister to its wants. After that period the temperature in the pit may be raisec from 45° to 55° ; and this should not be much exceeded until the fruit are set. They will then bear ten degrees more heat during the ripening period. Strawberries in Vineries. — Plants may also be introduced upon shelves in vineries, &c. ; but a pit for themselves is the bes place for them. For succession, introduc< a fresh batch of plants every fortnight. Dr Hogg, Black Prince, and Garibaldi, other wise Vicomtesse Hericart de Thury, ar< useful, early sorts. Nothing, however, i etter than Keen's Seedling for the early, and British Queen for the late crops. Vegetable Marrows. — The seeds should DC sown in threes in pots, and placed in a cucumber or melon frame. When up, they are separated and planted out, two or three n a 4-inch pot, where they may either continue till their final planting out, or separated again, and potted singly, to pre- vent their getting potbound. At the end of the month, or early in April, plant them out on a bed of manure of sufficient heat o start them, covering them with hand- jlasses. In May, plant them out, without any such stimulus, on ridges in the open ground. March.— Hothouse, Work in. Forcing Pit. — Introduce fresh batches of azaleas, lilacs, rhododendrons, roses, &c. Remove pinks, as soon as they fairly show flower, to a cooler house. Hydrangeas introduced now will force well, and make useful plants for the conservatory. Part of the pit should now be devoted to sowing tender annuals in pens or boxes — a first sowing of balsams, amaranthus, egg plants, mesembryanthemum, ipomea, thunbergias, Primula Sinensis, humea, &c. Roots for Cuttings, Management of. — Dahlia roots, and roots of Marvel of Peru, Salvia patens, and old pelargoniums may now be placed in a warm part of the pit, in order to stimulate them into growth for the sake of obtaining cuttings from them. When the cuttings have reached a length of from I to 2 inches, cut them from the parent stock with a sharp knife in such a manner that a heel may be left to them, the heel being part of the old growth. Insert these cuttings in smaller pots singly, or in twos or threes, or in numbers in shallow pans or boxes. When a sufficient number have been obtained, the roots themselves may be MARCH. 617 MARCH. cut into pieces, each piece having a shoot growing from it. Scale. — Now is the time to destroy scale, so troublesome on the beautiful and grace- ful plants named above. It has been said, in advice already tendered on this subject, that removal by hand is better than the application of any composition yet devised for this purpose. Temperature. — Keep a nice growing temperature of from 65° to 70°. If the sun continues very bright throughout the day, houses containing variegated plants will require shading for a few hours about noon. This will be the more necessary after re -potting. Cleroden- drons, allamandas, stephanotis, ixoras, &c., should now be pushed forward in a sharp bottom heat. They may receive a liberal shift, and be allowed to grow rather loosely for a lime, to encourage a rapid extension of parts. Ferns should now be thoroughly overhauled, examined, shifted into larger pots, or reduced, as circumstances may require ; nice fibrous peat, leaf mould, sharp sand, and broken sandstone, suit them well. March.— Kitchen Garden, Work in. Artichokes, Globe, will be making offsets about the end of this month, or during next ; these should be taken off for propagation. They bear best the second or third year after planting ; so that it is advisable to plant one or more rows every year, and remove the same quantity of old roots. The ground should be deeply worked and well manured ; let the manure be incorporated with the soil, not laid in a mass at the bottom of each trench. It is better to trench the ground first, and fork the manure well mto the surface spit, which gives the plants a better chance of immediately profiting by it. The offsets may be dis- severed with a knife, or slipped off and cut smooth afterwards, and planted with a dibber. Some plant in threes, a yard apart, and 4 feet from row to row, or they may be planted singly, 2 feet apart in the row, and 4 feet from row to row. They should be well watered, and the ground kept loose between. Artichokes, Jerusalem, should be planted not later than this month. The ground for them should be rather deeply worked, which gives them a firmer hold ; for the plants, growing tall, are exposed to rough winds, which they resist better where they root pretty deeply. Almost any part of a tuber will grow and form a plant ; but it is advisable to select middling-sized tubers, planting them a foot or 10 inches deep. This may be done as the ground is dug or trenched ; or they may be planted with a spade or trowel, making a hole for each set. They should be not less than a yard apart ; 4 feet is better. The more open the spot, the more likely they are to prosper. As a rule, they produce a great number from each set. No other treatment is required than to keep the ground well stirred about them, and prevent the growth of weeds. Cut them down when the leaves are decayed, but not before ; otherwise the tubers will cease to grow. Asparagus. — Those who wish to raise asparagus for planting out in beds should sow now. Rich soil is required, and the seed should be sown in drills about 15 inches apart. Basil and other Sweet Herbs. — Basil, burnet, and other herbs, require to be sown at this season on slight hotbeds of about 2 feet in depth ; but many cultivators leave them till next month, and sow in the open ground, unless they are wanted early. Thyme, marjoram, savory and hyssop, chervil, and cori- ander, may be sown this month in dry, MARCH. 618 MARCH. mild weather. Sow them moderately thin .in drills or beds (each sort sepa- rated) in good light soil ; if in drills, 6 inches apart : some of the plants to remain where planted, after a thinning for early use; others to be planted out in the summer. Beans. — The chief crops of this useful vegetable should be sown this month ; sowings of the Green Windsor Broad Bean and Long Pod Bean being made as early as possible. Beans, French. — These may be sown towards the end of this month, choos- ing an early dwari sort ; but the prin- cipal sowing should be deferred till next month. Those sown this month should be in a border, sheltered from cold winds, but open to the full sun. This crop is less hardy than most others, being often cut off by late spring frosts, of which it is very susceptible ; for that reason it is advisable to sow rather sparingly this month, and also to sow rather thickly. In sowing, draw some drills 2 feet apart and 2 inches deep ; drop the seeds I inch from seed to seed, and draw the earth in a ridge 2 inches high, which will cover the seeds 4 inches ; when up, thin to 3 or 4 inches. But it often happens that early sowings do not all come up, or come thick in parts, leaving others bare ; so that, to regulate the crop, it is necessary to thin out where they are thick • and plant the thinnings to fill up the vacancies. This should be done in mild weather, or in the morning, so that in watering, to settle them in the ground, they may get warm before night. Broccoli. — Such sorts as Walcheren, Purple Cape, or any sort that heads in autumn, should be sown at this time in the same manuer as cabbage or cauli- flower. They will be ready to plant out for good in May or June, or will be very useful at a time when summer crops are over and winter crops not ready. Brussels Sprouts, &c. — Let a sowing be made on a fairly warm border at the end of the month. Sowings should also be made of Scotch Kale, Savoys, Sprouting Broccoli, and other winter greens. Cabbages. — It is advisable to sow some cabbage seed of a quick hearting sort to follow those raised in January, or that have stood the winter. They will be of great service in July and the following months, The Early York, Large York, Nonpareil, Matchless, or indeed any sort, will do for the purpose. Sow broadcast on a warm sheltered spot, and protect from birds with light litter or netting ; but, if covered with litter, it must be uncovered to admit light and air, or the plants will be drawn up weak. Avoid planting cabbages when the ground is soddened after heavy rains. The soil is best when tolerably dry, and the state of the weather most favourable is a dull day preceding rain. It is an excellent plan at all times to mulch the roots of the young plants in a compost of soil and soot, wetted to the con- sistency of thick paste. This saves a great deal of trouble in watering after- wards, and in the driest weather will generally prevent flagging. Broccoli plants so treated will be found very free from clubbing. All young plants should be set deep, certainly to within an inch of the first leaf. Cardoons are not so generally cultivated now as formerly, especially in small gardens, on account of the space they require. The seed is sown in March, in a warm sheltered spot, or under a handglass or frame. When large enough, they are planted 8 or 10 inches apart, in rich or well-manured soil. Then again, they are planted in rows or trenches, after the manner of celery, only at a much greater distance froro MARCH. 619 MARCH. each other. During the autumn, earth up to blanch. The plant grows very large, after the manner of the globe artichoke. Much room is required for banking up ; accordingly, some gar- deners recommend placing them 5 feet apart at the final planting ; but the crop can never pay for this enormous extent of ground. Carrots. — Some seed may be sown early this month, but the main crop should be deferred till the first week in April. Such sorts as the Intermediate may be sown in the four succeeding months ; they will be useful to those who like to have this vege- table fresh and sweet from the ground. The ground should be deeply dug or bastard trenched in autumn, left at first in a rough state ; but when it has been well frosted, stir and level it in January or February. For the purpose of doing this the Canterbury hoe (that is, a hoe having two or three prongs instead of a blade) is a very useful implement. This treatment 'of the soil applies in all cases of spring sowing, especially if the ground is heavy or retentive ; in that case it will not fall to pieces, unless it has been frosted and dried by winds. In preparing the ground for carrots, no manure should be applied ; it is known that it induces them to fork, and they are more likely to become grub eaten. A dressing of sand is advantageous. Cauliflowers. — Cauliflower seed sown now will furnish plants for planting out in May and June ; it may be sown in the open ground or in a frame or hand- glass. Sow on the surface, tread and rake, and protect with litter or netting. Celery. — It is too early yet to sow the main crop of celery, but a little may be sown for early use. First sowings may be sown in seed pans ; but for the main crop, it is preferable to shake together a small heap of stable dung, just sufficient to give a slight heat ; spread three inches of soil on it, sow the seed, and cover with a hand- glass. The plants come up much stronger by this method. The seed takes a long while to germinate compared to some : that sown in March will be ready to transplant in April. Cropping. — During this month the great operations of the year are commenced, and most of the principal crops got in. Hither- to, warm and sheltered spots and borders have been appropriated, but the larger quarters have been dug up into ridges, and as large a surface as possible exposed to atmospheric influences. Now the whole garden is to be cropped upon a carefully considered plan, so that no crop of the same character should follow on the same spot; but having once laid down a well-devised plan for the season, the operations should become compara- tively easy. Assuming therefore, that previous directions have been attended to, that the soil was turned over in autumn, that it has been frozen, the surface turned over and frozen again, and dried by the winds which generally occur early this month, it is now ready for cropping (see Rotation of Crops). Leeks. — A sowing should be made in a small bed not later than the middle of the month, to be transplanted, when large enough, into well-manured trenches for winter use. Mint may also be propagated this month by separating the roots and planting them in drills drawn with a hoe 6 inches asunder, covering them with an inch of earth, and raking smooth. They will quickly take root, and grow freely for use in the summer. This method may be applied to the several sorts of spear- mint, peppermint, lamb mint, and orange mint. Onions. — The main crop should be got in this month. Sow in drills from 6 to 9 MARCH. 620 MARCH. inches apart, and about £ inch deep when covered in. The White Spanish, Dept- ford, and James' Keeping are accounted good sorts. Parsley. — Full crops of parsley should now be sown in drills along the edges of one of the borders. The quantity sown must be regulated by the require- ments of the household ; in the summer months it is frequently in request for garnishing cold meats, &c. Parsnips. — The main crop should be sown this month. For culinary purposes the roots will be large enough if the seed is sown in drills 15 inches apart, and the young plants thinned out to 10 or 12 inches apart. The Hollow Crowned variety of this root is the best, but by many the Guernsey is accounted equal to it, if not superior. Peas. — Fresh sowings should be made this month, as formerly directed, and coal ashes scattered at the roots of those coming up, to prevent their destruction by slugs, sowing a row of many-leaved spinach between the rows. Potatoes. — About the beginning of this month is the time to get in early potatoes. Some recommend planting them in October, placing them deep enough to be out of the reach of frost. In porous, well-drained soils this answers admirably ; but the advantage is not so great as to recom- mend it for general practice. To insure a good crop, the ground should be bastard trenched in October or Novem- ber, and left in ridges ; in February levelled, and some thoroughly decom- posed manure forked in. In March the frosts will have left it well pulverised, and ready to receive the sets. Some prefer middling-sized potatoes for setting, planting them whole, scooping out all the shoots except one or two ; others prefer large ones, cut in two or more, assuming that a large potato makes stronger shoots, capable of standing erect in full light of day. When plant- ing later in the season, it is enough to cut the potato into pieces, having an eye to each piece. The writer treated a pound of Early Rose potatoes in this manner, and found that the haulm was strong and vigorous, and that there was plenty of it. The produce of the single pound cut up in this manner, when taken out of the ground, weighed 48 Ib. Radishes. — Make sowings of these thinly between the rows of the more enduring crops, such as onions. Rhubarb. — If fresh plantations of rhubarb are required, and have not yet been made, it is desirable to form them without delay. Salading, Small. — Mustard and cress should be sown in small quantities every week, to keep up a proper succession of small salading. Seakale. — This still requires some cover- ing, but less than last month, blanching being the main object of it ; and sand, ashes, or leaves will effect the object. When the kale is past blanching, its use does not end here : the leaves may be eaten all through the summer and autumn while they are green, merely dressing them in the same way as winter greens. Thus it will be found a very profitable crop for cottagers ; it grows well in shady places, and is not particu- lar as to soil, and will stand a cold, bleak climate. A top dressing of very rotten dung, of any kind, is suitable for this plant, but it is rendered more efficacious by the addition of a little salt, about a pound to the barrowful of manure ; wood ashes are also beneficial, and may be added in any quantity. Spinach. — A crop of summer spinach should be sown in drills on open ground^ or between growing crops suitable for the MARCH. MARCH. purpose, in the first and third weeks of the ntionth. Turnips. — For use in haricots, &c., in late spring and early summer, a bed of some good early turnip, such as the Early Red Dutch or White Stone, should be sown. March.— Orchard House, Work in. Birds, Green Fly, and Ants. — Dust the front buds with a plentiful dressing of soot, to keep intrusive birds from feeding on them. Green fly should be killed off before the trees are in full bloom by tobacco smoke, dispersed through the house with a fumigator, or by means of Gishurst's Compound. If fumigation is resorted to, the ventilators and all apertures should be carefully closed, so that the smoke may effectually perform its death-dealing mission. Ants may be destroyed by pouring boiling water on the nest, or by a mixture of sugar and beer, in which arsenic has been mixed. Chloride of lime will drive them from their haunts. Fertilisation. — If bees are about, they will accomplish the work of fecundation in the most effectual manner ; but if the weather is not such as to admit of the appearance of these useful little insects, apply the pollen of the stamens to the pistils of the flowers with a camel-hair pencil, or shake the trees gently, that the pollen may be dispersed and set free to do its mission. Temperature. — In this department a temperature ranging from 45° to 50° will be sufficient, as the fruit-trees here will be in blossom, and too great a degree of heat is detrimental at this stage. Ventilation, as much as can be safely given, is absolutely necessary, but in the heated orchard house, as well as in the heated vinery, thorough draught must be avoided throughout the whole of March- In the unheated orchard house, thorough' draught is rather desirable than otherwise, because in a house of this description the trees are not yet in bloom, and a full flood of air into the house from all quarters- retards the blooming. Watering. — Plenty of water should now be given, to prevent any dryness at the- roots. By this it must be understood that copious watering is necessary only at such, periods when the earth appears dry, and not as a matter of every-day occurrence. Syringe the trees twice daily in fine weather, but not on dull and cloudy- days. March.— Shrubbery, &c., Work in. Alterations and Planting. — Let alii planting and alterations cease for this season at once. Finish digging and clearing all this department, and manage to have a clean home for the shrubs- before they robe themselves in their beautiful flowers. Attend to staking, tying, and mulching all newly or recently planted trees and shrubs before- the March winds tear them half up by the roots. Choice specimens, recentljr moved, would be much benefited by a copious syringing with the engine, on the evenings of dry, pinching days, to check perspiration, and husband the scanty juices of the plants. Rhododendron Beds. — Top dress rhodo- dendron beds with equal parts of cow dung (thoroughly decayed ; say four years old) and leaf mould. On poor soils this im- parts a rich gloss to the foliage, and' causes luxuriant, healthy growth. Where such material is not procurable, a thick layer of leaves may be pointed in with' excellent results. Pointing, in gardening, means stirring the surface of the ground with a fine fork. APRIL. 622 APRIL. APRIL. Aspect and Character of Month. The variations in temperature in April are still very great, as in the earlier part of the year, the thermometer ranging from 75° to a degree or two below the freezing point in the meridian of London, the •mean maximum of an average of ten years being 57 to 82° in the atmosphere, and the tnean minimum being 35 '33°. The tem- perature is lowest at sunrise, and there are, on an average of ten years, six frosty nights in the month. An unusual fall of rain in April is supposed to indicate a dry season for the harvest. April.— Conservatory Work in. Boronias, c. — These always do best when plunged in heat and grown in a frame or shallow pit. Advantage should be taken of a frame from which early vegetables have been removed for growing these with balsams and similar plants, the hotbed having been relined, and the old soil removed and new soil introduced. Tttberoses. — Tuberoses planted now will bloom in autumn if the pots are plunged in a hotbed ; they require no water till the roots begin to push, when they should be watered every second day. 2. FRUIT AND VEGETABLES. — Capsicums, Tomatoes, &c., Renewal of Frames for. — Frame potatoes, carrots, cauliflowers, &c., will be fit for the table this month, and may be replaced by any of the above, taking out the old soil and replacing it with fresh, and applying new linings. Such are also very useful for growing capsicums and tomatoes, either for fruiting or merely preparatorily to planting them under a wall ; in either case they should be grown in pots. Cucumbers — Closing Frames. — Shut up the lights about 4 or 5 p.m., and open as early in the morning as the weather will permit, and water before closing in preference to other times, as during the night the plants revel in a moist, dewy atmosphere. Cucumbers — Pinching Back and Water- ing.— Attend well to pinching back under- growth, and pegging down the stems ; they will root at every joint by so doing, and continue bearing much longer. Water must be given more freely as the weather gets warmer ; but see that the plants are not chilled, which will be the case if the water is not of a temperature nearly equal to that of the bed Cucumbers — Shading and Repotting. — Shading will be necessary for newly removed plants, if the sun is powerful ; but plants can be repotted, or planted in such a manner that they do not in the least miss the moving : let the pots be thoroughly clean before using them, and the plants will turn out without breaking the ball of earth or disturbing the roots. Cucumbers — Ventilation. — Give plenty of air to growing plants, particularly in sunny weather. Neither cucumbers nor melons should be shaded j it is necessary that the stems be matured and ripened, in order to secure a good bearing condi- tion ; plants that are vigorous and healthy will bear the full light of the sun, if air is admitted proportioned to its influence. Hotbeds, Making. — Hotbeds may still be made for starting cucumbers and melons with greater certainty of obtaining fruit, and also with far less labour and material than formerly, the weather being much warmer, and the sun aiding by his rays the efforts of the cultivator ; but the same directions apply now as before for making the beds, excepting that they need not be quite so high ; 3 feet or rather more will be suffi- cient. Beware of building hotbeds with long or insufficiently prepared dung : the violence with which it ferments will destroy the plants or lay the foundation of a weak, sickly growth, accompanied by mildew and other pests. Great caution is necessary, because over-heating is more likely to occur, and is less easily detected now than in colder weather. Wait a week, or even two, rather than build with insufficiently prepared dung. Sow the seed and raise the plants as already directed, and treat in nearly all respects in the manner described. Melons. — The principal summer crop of melons should be got out this month ; and MAY. 645 MAY. here the ordinary melon pit will be brought into requisition. Let a good quantity of well-prepared dung be ready. The pit should be about 4 feet deep in front, rising at an angle of 45°, or thereabouts, of the most simple construction, no other appli- ances being necessary ; but it should be broad and roomy, both on account of holding sufficient dung to maintain a lasting heat, and also that the plants may have sufficient room to trail ; but they must not be allowed to ramble at pleasure, but kept within bounds by stopping and pinching. Let the dung be thrown in evenly, and worked about with the fork, so that it may not sink more in one place than another ; allow it to settle ; throw on 6 or 8 inches of good loamy soil, which tread over. When of the right temperature (about 80°) the plants may be put in, settled with warm water, and afterwards watered about twice a week, but not over- head when about setting the fruit ; stir the soil and pour it between the roots at that time. Melons — Fertilisation and Management. — Bees will find their way into pits and frames at this time of the year, and fertilise the fruit blossoms, although some growers, to make doubly sure, still perform that task. Melons in full growth must have plenty of fresh air to insure that dark healthy greenness in the foliage indicative of vigour in these plants. Close before the air cools too much, and open in the morning before the steam shows on the glass : both are important, because, if the lights are left open late, the air inside is chilled, and rendered unsuited for healthy respiration ; whereas, in the morning, if kept closed too long, the plants sweat, and are less able to bear the sunlight. Shading is unnecessary, except in case of fresh planting ; if properly treated in other respects, they will be able to bear the sun's rays. Melons on Trellises. — The fruit of plants growing on trellises should be placed on a thin piece of board suspended under the plants. After the fruit is three parts swelled a fresh growth may be permitted if the plants are intended to produce a second crop. Melons — Watering. — Melons now swell- ing will require a moderate amount of water. If the plants are growing in mere loam, liquid manure should be given. Be par- ticular that the bottom is maintained at a steady point ; a deficiency or excess of heat at this stage would most materially interfere with the swelling of the fruit. To preserve the soil in a medium state of dryness, and to save frequent waterings, the surface of the bed may be covered with common flat tiles or broken brickbats. Great attention must be paid to preserve the principal leaves from injury. Vegetable Marrows. — Vegetable marrows and gourds may be planted under hand- lights, in somewhat the same manner as that described above, if done before the last week in this month ; but let the bed be broader than for cucumbers and melons, and not quite so high, placing about a foot of soil on it ; all that is necessary is a slight heat to start them, and covering with handlights. May.— Hothouse, Work in. Temperature. — The flowers so long pent up in their warm quarters begin to look for change at this time of year, and many ©f them which have done flowering are transferred to cool and shady positions in the open air, to recruit their wasted energies, and to prepare for another year, while those that yet remain in bloom, and are retained in the house for its embellish- ment, require as much air as it is possible to give them, but always without draughts. During the month of May the hothouse or stove may be kept at a temperaturr MAY. 646 MAY. necessary for the plants that are kept within it. May.— Kitchen Garden, Work in. Artichokes, Globe. — Stir the earth well about them, and reduce the shoots to three, Mid draw the earth well about the roots. The offsets taken off may be planted in threes, 4 feet apart one way and 5 feet another, giving a copious watering till they have taken root. Asparagus. — New plantations of aspara- gus may still be made, but it must be well watered, unless rain occurs. Sow asparagus seed where it is to grow, and thin the plants to the proper distance. Beds that are in bearing should be kept clear of weeds, and the ground stirred occasionally, adding a sprinkling of salt, which improves the flavour. In cutting, use a rough-edged knife, and insert it close to the head to be cut, to avoid cutting others in the process. Beans. — These may still be sown ; about the end of this month some will be in full bloom ; pinch out the tops of such to hasten the setting of the flowers. Black fly fre- quently infest the tops of the beanstalks, and this renders their removal all the more necessary. Indeed, it is the only way to get rid of the fly. Beans, French. — These may be sown plentifully this month ; they will be found oceedingly useful, as they follow the main crops of peas, and are both delicate and wholesome. Sow in drills 3 inches deep and 3 feet apart. Earth up those that have made a pair of rough leaves, after thinning to four or five inches. These should have no manure, as that is likely to make them run all to haulm. Beans, Runner. — May is the best month for sowing runner beans in open ground. Being climbers of very quick growth, they must have plenty of room. Sow in rows » feet apart, or sow IO or 12 feet from row to row, which will allow of planting ridge cucumbers between ; drill them in 4 or 6 inches deep, or dib them in clusters or circles, of five or six beans in each cluster ; these being 6 feet apart, they may be grown with fewer sticks, and look more natural. The Giant White and other varieties have all the same habit ; but that most usually grown is the Scarlet Runner, which is unsurpassed either for flavour or produc- tiveness. Beet. — Sow the white as a substitute for spinach, and also silver beet to be used as seakale ; treat same as the red. Borecole and Brussels Sprouts. — Seed of these varieties may yet be sown ; treat these in the same manner as broccoli. Broccoli. — This being a good time for sowing late sorts, as Purple Sprouting, Miller's Dwarf, &c., care should be taken to have a good supply of them ; they are invaluable in the early springtime. Give them an open situation ; sow broadcast, each sort separately, and rather thinly. Walcheren sown now will be very useful in the autumn ; plant out early sorts that are large enough before they get shanky. Cabbage. — To hasten the hearting of those that have stood the winter, tie them in the same way as lettuce. Plant out early sown ones, and sow again for succes- sion. Cardoons. — These may be treated in a similar manner to celery ; and may yet be sown — they will grow large enough for every purpose ; there is no advantage in having them over large. Carrots that are advancing should have the small hoe employed between them, as nothing benefits these more than continu- ally stirring the surface of the soil ; thin them to the proper distance. Fresh sow- ings may still be made. Early Horn Carrot sown now will be very useful in the autumn, and should be sown thicker than larger sorts. MAY. C-47 MAY. Cauliflower. — Plant out early-sown 18 inches apart. Those that have stood the winter should have liquid manure, or, at least, plenty of water, unless they were previously mulched, which prevents evapo- ration, and also feeds the plants. Break the centre leaves over any that may be heading. Celery. — Prick out that sown in March, giving 6 inches distance from plant to plant. In order that they may get strong, let plenty of good rotten manure be worked into the soil. An excellent plan is to cover a hard surface with 4 inches of rotten dung, over this 3 inches of soil, which having trodden and raked even, prick out the young plants the same distance apart, and water plentifully ; they will form a mass of fibres, and may be cut out with a trowel for planting in the trenches. A little shade will benefit them in sunny weather. Chervil arid Parsley . — These sown now on a sunny border will be useful in winter. Sow either in drills or broadcast ; tread the seed in before raking ; thin out that which is sufficiently advanced to 9 inches ; plant out the thinnings to the same distance — they are said to curl better when planted out. Cotwe Tronchuda. — This plant is much esteemed in some families for the midrib of the leaf, which is used as seakale. Treat as directed for cabbages generally. All the members of this group like a reten- tive soil, highly enriched with manure ; but the latter is best given in the form of mulch. They then throw out root fibres on the surface of the ground and grow luxuriantly. Cress and Small Salading. — American, Nonnandy, and Australian cress, and corn salad, to come in in August, should be sown now in shallow drills or broadcast, treading the seed firmly in before raking ; these also will require copious waterings. Indian Cress. — Nasturtiums, or, to use their proper name, Indian Cress, are often grown as salad, and also for the seeds, which in the young state are useful for pickling. Sow in drills in the same manner as peas ; or at the foot of rustic fences, hurdles, &c., which they will soon hide with a highly ornamental covering. Endive. — The Batavian may be sown now ; it may be useful to use in the same manner as spinach j treat in the same way as lettuce. Hamburg Parsley, Salsafyy and Scor- zoneras may still be sown, the treatment of these being very much the same. Sow in drills 15 or 1 8 inches apart, and thin to about 9 inches when up. Their culture is very simple, merely requiring the hoe between them during the summer. It is as well not to give manure before sowing. Herbsi Sweet. — Balm, mint, marjoram, savory, thyme, and other sweet herbs of this description, may be increased by slips, offsets, or divisions of the roots ; at this time they grow quickly after the operation. They must be well watered. Other herbs, as basil, knotted marjoram, fennel, dill, &c, may be sown on the open ground. They are not generally subject to the attacks of birds, as many other seeds are. Horseradish. — Pinch out the tops where running to seed, and use the hoe freely all the season through. It will require little other attention the rest of the season. Leeks. — Thin where forward enough, and plant the thinnings a foot apart, in rows 2 feet from each other. Give liquid manure to those that remain, and stir the ground between. Lettuce. — Sow in drills, a foot or rather more at this time of the year, especially on light ground ; let as many as possible con- tinue where sown. Those transplanted had better be in drills, for the greater facility of watering, an abundance of which they must have in dry weather, to ensure that crispness and milky flavour which indicates a well-grown lettuce. The soil for these MAY. 648 MAY. cannot be too rich. The large heading kinds of cabbage lettuce are proper to sow this month, but cos lettuces do equally well. Tie up cos lettuce about a fortnight before using. Onions. — Seed may still be sown, more particularly for salading, for which purpose thin out the earliest sowings and clear from weeds ; drenching the soil with liquid manure occasionally will benefit these. Give a dredging with soot occasionally, and sprinkle the bed with a dressing of washing soda crushed to powder just before rain if possible. Parsnips. — Thin out to a foot apart at least ; 18 inches is not too much. Peas. — To sow now, use any good medium or tall sorts in good soils. Even in poor soils the tall peas, if mulched with good sound manure, will yield immensely. Observe the same rule in sowing these as regards distance as laid down above for runner beans. Earth up and stick any that may be advancing, as they grow quicker now than in former months ; this must be done in time, or they will fall over. Dwarf sorts will not require sticks, and are very useful in some localities. Potatoes. — Continue to plant if desirable : no fear need be entertained of their doing well. Several good late sorts do as well planted this month as earlier. Earth up those that are forward enough, but not too much : more earth than is just sufficient to cover the tubers is likely to prove injurious to the crop. Radishes. — Sow for succession. These must be well protected from birds, as they are immoderately fond of pulling them up as they begin to grow. They must be well watered, to prevent them becoming hot and woody. A good retentive soil suits them best at this time. Rhubarb. — The roots may yet be divided and planted 4 feet apart ; it is a good prac- tice also to sow the seed, which may be done at this time. Sow broadcast, and leave the plants till the following spring, so as to judge of the earliest, so that thin- ning is unnecessary till this is ascertained. Roots for forcing may be raised thus in abundance. Savoys. — This useful vegetable may yet be sown, since moderately sized heads of good colour are better than large white ones — the result of too early sowing. The main point in their culture, in common with the rest of this group, is an open situation and plenty of room — 2 feet each way is none too much ; they must also receive their final planting before they are drawn up in the seed bed. Seakale. — This should now be cleared of the litter used in forcing, and the ground forked between the rows, and kept clear of weeds till the following December, unless the season should prove a dry one, when one or two copious waterings should be given, especially to newly raised plants, the roots of which are yet shallow. If the leaves are used, they must not be thinned too much. Spinach. — This may yet be sown for succession ; but as it is apt to run very quickly, it is advisable to sow on a north border. Give plenty of room ; it is less likely to run than when crowded. Turnips. — These may do well sown now, if wet or showery weather occur ; sow broad- cast, tread the seed in, and rake soot in with it. This seed germinates very quickly at this time, especially if sown on fresh dug ground. Such as are up should be hoed between and thinned out immediately. Doing this early will be of great advantage to the crop ; the oftener it is done the better. Watering. — It is not accounted a wise proceeding to begin to water vegetables, for if you begin to do so you will have to continue it. Some vegetables, too, will present a very bad appearance under inter- MAY. 649 JUNE. mittent watering, as, for example, onions, whose tube-like leaves will turn yellow at the top, if water is given to them and subsequently withheld. Nevertheless, all transplanted vegetables must be watered plentifully, and even shaded if facilities exist for affording them shelter from the sun's rays, in order to prevent too great a check to their growth. May.— Orchard House, Work in. Pruning, Summer. — Summer pruning of trees to be so treated to commence early this month. In pyramids, apricots, as soon as the shoots have made six or seven leaves, must have the sixth leaf with the end of the shoot pinched or cut off with a penknife, leaving only five main leaves. From this leading shoot two or three will break : in like manner, when they break, all but one of these are to be pinched down to five leaves. When this one has made ten leaves, pinch down to nine. With pyramidal peaches and nectarines, as soon as the shoot has made three leaves, pinch off the third leaf with the end of the shoot, leaving two principal ones. These pinched shoots will soon put forth fresh shoots, which, with all succeeding ones, must be pinched off to one leaf as soon as three are formed. Ventilation. — Ventilation must still be strictly attended to. Open all ventilators during the day, except in fierce north and east winds. Worsted netting of ^-inch mesh may be placed over the ventilators in severe weather. If the caterpillar attacks the young shoots of the apricot, the ends must be pinched off and crushed. Watering. — Trees in pots will require watering daily, but trees planted in borders will require water at intervals of a week or a fortnight, according to the state of the weather and the temperature of the external air. Thus the trees will require water more frequently if the weather be hot and dry than if it be cold and wet, because the beds will not lose their moisture so rapidly under the latter conditions as they will under the former. A regular and sufficient supply must be maintained ; do not give liquid manure until the stone begins to- form in the fruit, and then it must be very weak. When the fruit is swelling, increase its strength, but at no time give very strong manure water to fruit-trees. May.— Shrubbery, Work in. Evergreens and Hedges, Clipping. — Thi& should receive attention before the young growth has made too much way. All evergreens and hedges, especially ever- green hedges, should be cut to a point pyramidically ; for if the top be allowed to overhang the bottom, the lower shoots will invariably die off. Prune hollies and laurels with the knife. Privet and thorn may be clipped with the garden shears. JUNE. Aspect and Character of Month. The direct power of the sun's rays indeed1 is now at its maximum, although the radia- tion of heat from the earth's surface, which decides the temperature cf our atmosphere, does not attain its highest point till August. The variation of the temperature is still* great, ranging, according to local circum- stances, from a few degrees above freezing to 90°, the mean heat being 58°. The average mean temperature at Chiswick, for a period of ten years, at two feet below the surface, was 58° ; at I foot, 60° ; and on the surface, 60° 45' ; the mean maximum and minimum of the external air being respectively 81° 13' and 45° 10'. The dry- ness of its atmosphere is also at its height in our moist climate, and vegetation now depends on the dew, with which the atmos- phere is laden, and with which, being con- JUNE. 650 JUNE. densed, every blade of grass and leaf saturated an hour or two after sunset and sunrise. June.— Conservatory, Work in. The difficulty of furnishing the conser- vatory is now one of taste and selection. Every floral tribe will now be ready to furnish its quota, and discrimination is only required in selecting and arranging them. Avoid crowding ; encourage variety and harmonious contrast in colour ; remove all decayed or decaying blossom, and guard against insects of all kinds by cleanliness and timely fumigation. Regulate the luxu- rious growth of creepers and border plants, watering copiously , occasionally using liquid manure. Water should now be given liberally to plants in the open borders of the conservatory, excepting, perhaps, plants very recently planted. Ventilation. — Proper and systematic ven- tilation is now of the utmost importance, but it must be regulated in proportion to the state of the external air. Air should be admitted night and day, except in cold, gloomy weather, and shading from the burning sun attended to for an hour or two daily. June.— Flower Garden, Work in. Annuals. — Watch the different annuals as they come into flower, and mark those varieties whose superior habit of growth, size of flower, or brilliancy of colour, makes it desirable to procure seed from them. Destroy inferior sorts as soon as they expand their first flower. Annuals for Replacing Failures. — A few kinds of annuals should also be sown on a light soil in a shady border to take the place of those which may have failed. By frequently transplanting and stopping, their tendency to bloom will be encouraged, and the formation of roots promoted, and they will soon bear removing to the permanent beds without injury. Annuals in Reserve Garden. — Beds of annuals to be transplanted for autumn flowering should be sown in the space left vacant by the removal of zinnias, china asters, and marigolds planted out. Auriculas and Polyanthuses. — These should be removed into a northern aspect, all decayed petals taken away from the seed pods, and as the capsules turn brown, they should be gathered. Water as they require it, and keep the pots free from weeds. Basket Plants and Vases. — It will add much to the effect of vases, &c., if, after they are filled, a few trailing plants are put in to peg over the surface of the mould, and ultimately to hang over the sides. For the larger ones the different kinds of mau- randyas and lophospermums are well adapted, while for the smaller vases, baskets, &c., dwarf loosestrife and plants of similar habit will add much ^ to their beauty. Moss, which we so frequently see used for the purpose, can never present so elegant an appearance. Those plants which interlace the meshes of basket-work require continual attention now, covering over the soil with some of the spreading lobelias, whose colours, when in bloom, harmonise with the trailing plants, and have an excellent effect. Bedding Plants.— Until the individual plants in the beds are sufficiently grown to meet one another, and intermingle their foliage, the beds cannot be expected to harmonise perfectly ; but this period of their growth is approaching, and some judgment may now be formed of the taste with which their arrangement has been carried out. The growth of some of the bedding plants will be promoted by slight shading from the noonday sun ; others, as the verbenas, grow faster when exposed to dry, cool air ; and all grow faster and JUNE. 6 fresher when watered occasionally. This should be done in the evening, and copiously, but not too often, stirring the soil amongst calceolarias, pegging down the lateral branches of verbenas, agera- tums, petunias, and anagallis, so as to cover the ground. Bedding Stock, Surplus. — As soon as the beds, borders, &c., of the flower garden are finished, the baskets and vases filled, and the general spring planting out brought to a finish, the remaining stock of bedding plants should be looked over. A portion will be required for stock ; and as a con- siderable number of plants will in all pro- bability be required to make failures good, or to replace beds now occupied with short blooming plants, and other demands through the season — these, with few exceptions, had better be kept in pots ; and, therefore, if any unpotted cuttings yet remain, let them be potted off into clean pots. Repot others, also, getting too full of roots, plunging them afterwards in ashes, in a cool, shady situation, and pinching off all early or premature blooms : they will soon be ready for turning out. Beds, Management of. — The newly planted beds require constant watching. All failures should be instantly made good, and the tying and staking of everything requiring support attended to. Where an early display of flowers is not wanted, the buds may be pinched off. Pansies, ane- mones, double wallflowers, and other spring plants, should be removed as they go out of bloom, to make room for autumn- flowering ones, the beds being made up with fresh compost, in planting the later. Box Edgings, &r.. — When showery weather occurs, kt the box be clipped. London pride, thrift, daisies, &c., used for edging, should be taken up once in two years, divided, and replanted when the blooming season is over. Bulbs in Covered Beds, Management of . — i JUNE. About the second week the awning may be taken from the tulip shed, and the foliage of the plants exposed fully to the action of the sun and rain. Offsets in warm situations will require taking up before those on the main bed ; as soon as the foliage turns yellow, they may be removed with safety. Seedlings which have grown one year should be allowed to remain in the ground during the first winter ; when two years old they may be lifted and kept separated. Bulbs in Open Ground, Management of. — Offsets and bulbs in exposed beds should be taken up at an earlier period than those that have been covered, choos- ing a dry day for the purpose, as soon as- the foliage begins to change. They should be stowed away in some dry, airy place, where mice cannot have access to them,, leaving them there till the bulb is thoroughly dry, the fibres, husk, and skin, remaining also. Carnations, Picotees, and Pinks, as- they advance, should be tied to their stakes, reducing the number of shoots according to the strength of the plant. Care should be taken that the flower pods of pinks da not burst; and those having ligatures round them will require easing and retying. Shade any forward flowers, giving plenty of water and liquid manure. Carnations, &*<:., Propagation of. — The larger stalks of the pink, or grass, as it is- technically called, when separated from, the parent plant, may be "piped " now — that is, the upper part of the stalk may be drawn out of its sheath or spathe, and struck in light sandy soil under a hand- glass. This being done for the larger stalks, the plants will put out abundant stock for later cuttings. At the end of the- month, or early in July, the main crop of pipings or layers should be got in. See this is done by making a slight hotbed^, and covering it with 6 inches of sandy soiU. JUNE. 652 JUNE. in which the cuttings or rooted pipings may be planted, covering them with small handglasses, or they may be struck on a shady border. Carnations, Fertilisation of, for Seed. — The delicate operation of fertilising should be performed on such as it is desired to keep for seed. This is the only true way of getting first-class seedlings, and both parent plants selected for experiment should be the most perfect of their kind. Climbers and Creepers. — Creepers against walls or trellises should be gone over and tied or nailed in. Cuttings for Spring Blooms. — A shady piece of ground in the reserve garden should now be prepared for cuttings of double wallflowers, rockets, sweetwilliams, pansies, and other plants required for next spring's bloom. Aubrietias and many other spring-flowering plants may also be divided and planted out this month. Dahlias. — Dahlias already planted out should be watered in the evenings with soft water overhead, the soil being previ- ously stirred, and others planted out for later bloom, taking care, in hot weather, to mulch round the roots, where it can be done without being unsightly, with short, well-decomposed dung. As the shoots advance, train and tie them up carefully, and search for earwigs and slugs in the mornings. A ring, or circle of copper, placed on the ground round the stem, it appears, will prevent this latter pest from approaching the leaves of plants. Herbaceous Plants. — Carnations, pico- tees, and herbaceous plants, with the taller growing bedding plants, should be staked and tied up, to prevent injury from high winds. About the second week, hollyhocks, phloxes, delphiniums, asters, &c., should have the shoots thinned out before being tied up, to prevent an appearance of over- crowding, as well as to improve the size of the flowers. Hollyhocks. — Stake and water hollyhocks freely. Hyacinths, &>c. — By the end of the month the last of the spring-flowering bulbs should be ripe enough to take up ; and if the plants intended to occupy their places have not been already introduced between them, they should at once be planted, altering or improving the soil of the beds to suit the habits of the fresh plants. Iberis Saxatilis, — Cuttings of Iberis saxatilis root readily under a handglass at this season ; when placed in a shady situation, they form a beautiful edging, and may be cut like box for a week or two, to encourage the plants to cover the ground. Pansies. — Plants struck from cuttings in April and May will produce fine blooms if planted in shady situations, or potted into 6-inch pots, and shaded in very bright weather. Cuttings may still be taken from promising plants. Mark all seedlings having good or singular properties. Though a flower may not be of good form, still, if we have any novel traits of character, it will be advisable to save seed fronr-it, in order to perpetuate or improve both these and its form. At the end of the month, side slips may be taken and cut down. Strong straggling plants will afford a good supply of rooted cuttings for making up autumnal beds. Peonies.— For late spring or early sum- mer flowering, few plants are more useful than pseonies. Every flower garden should have some of them. They are mostly very hardy, and in colour vary from pure white, blush, salmon, and rose, to the most intense and brilliant scarlet. The Chinese tree varieties (Pczonia Moutan) are also hardy and early flowering. Bedded upon lawns they have a beautiful effect. In a shrub- like form they rise from 3 to 5 feet in height, and branch out in a good rich soil to 10 or 1 8 feet in circumference. There are many j varieties, and the colouring is extremely JUNE. 653 JUNE. rich. They are most of them profuse flowerers. Ranunculuses. — These will be making rapid growth. Always water inthe evening and with water which has been exposec to the rays of the sun. When they begin to show colour, the awning, or other shade should be placed over them : a few hoops extended over the bed, with mats on the sunny side, for a few hours in the middle of the day, will suffice, and greatly prolong their beauty. While the bloom is fresh, give water ; but as it fades, discontinue it, and keep them from rain. Rose Maggot and Green Fly. — Close watching is now required to prevent the ravages of the rose maggot, war.hing daily with the syringe. To dislodge the green fly, a little ammonia or tobacco mixed with the water is useful. Roses. — Standard and pillar roses should likewise be looked over to see that they are properly secured to their stakes. This being the month in which roses are in their glory, care should betaken that their effect is not destroyed by imperfect buds or deformed flowers. Weak-growing shoots should be tied up and regulated, and all fading flowers and seed vessels removed, cutting back the perpetual or autumn- flower kinds, as soon as all the flowers of the branch are expanded to the most pro- minent vertical eye, stirring the ground and saturating it with manure water, or sprinkling the ground with guano and water with soft rain water. Routine Work. — The most pressing work about the middle of the month is that of keeping the place in order. The edgings, whether of grass or box or other evergreen, should be repaired or clipped now. The effect produced at this season will amply repay the trouble ; and in flower gardens the effect is excellent. Evergreen hedges clipped now have time to make and mature a new growth before winter, while the season is far enough advanced to prevent them from growing much out of shape. Saving Seed. — Sorts which it is desirable to save seeds from should have the seed- pods covered with a piece of glass placed in a notched stick. This will preserve the crown from receiving moisture, and prevent decay. Remove the seed vessels of all others, as the bulbs become ready to take up sooner than if they were allowed to remain on. Tulips.— Tulips will now require the. chief attention ; and by proper care and protection their season of bloom may be considerably prolonged. The beds should be gone over carefully, and memoranda made of the style or character of the flowers individually. For instance, tall flowers should be marked to go in the fourth or middle row, whilst the height of others should be noted, in order that a proper degree of uniformity may be attained at next planting. June.— Fruit Garden and Or- chard, Work in. Apricots. — These will now require their final thinning, and stopping, and watering, also followed by mulching, which is im- portant at this lime for all fruit-trees where evaporation is active. Cherries. — Cherry-trees now progressing towards maturity should be gone carefully over, the shoots stopped and laid in, and the trees netted, to save the fruit and pro- tect it from birds. If the black fly appears, cut off the ends of the shoots, unless it s more convenient to wash them in tobacco water. Currants and Gooseberries. — A wash of ime or clear soot water may be applied with advantage to gooseberries and currants nfested with the caterpillar. These in- crease so rapidly that a constant watch must be kept up for some time. Pinch back all shoots off the currant-trees not JUNE. 654 JUNE. wanted for wood. The fruit of goose- berries will be considerably improved by summer stopping the young wood. The earth immediately under the trees should be watered and beaten firm, which will prevent more of the larvae from rising to attack the shoots. Where the earth is very light, a coating of clay or loam, the consistence of mortar, should be spread under the trees, and made firm to prevent their escape from the earth. If these pre- cautions are taken on the insects' first appearance, they are more easily kept from doing mischief. Figs. — Stop all except the leading shoots when they have made three or four joints, and lay on leaders and shoots required for filling up. Watering the roots with soap- suds is found greatly to benefit the fruit. Insect Pests. — The beginning of the month is a busy period in this department, and much vigilance and perseverance will be requisite to keep pace with the advanc- ing growth, in preventing and keeping down the different pests. Tobacco water must be instantly applied directly the black or green fly makes its appearance, endeavouring to make it act on the under- side of the leaves. When the foliage becomes curled, insect larvae are present ; a good sulphurator, charged with snuff and a small portion of sulphur, will be found the most effectual implement. Before using this, damp the trees with the syringe, and apply the snuff before the tree becomes dry, that it may more effectually adhere to the leaves. Dislodge the maggot, which coils itself up in the foliage, and not unfrequently spoils some of the finest fruit. Nectarines and Peaches. — Where the leading shoots of peaches or nectarines are growing too vigorously, stop them, in order to encourage lateral shoots, by pinching off the leading bud. Unless this operation is performed early in the season, the shoots do not get properly ripened. If the fruit seems setting too thickly, let it be partially thinned, reserving the main thinning, how- ever, till after it has stoned. The trees will have been mulched last month to prevent evaporation, and should now be watered, and that so copiously that it does not require frequent repetition, pouring the water into the roots. Pears and Plums. — Disbttdding, 6°c. — Making hotbeds is seldom deferred till this time of year ; yet it may be done advantageously. Both cucumbers and melons, if started this month, will pay for cultivating ; the direc- tions for doing so being the same as in former months, it is unnecessary to repeat ; but common brick pits will be very suitable for the purpose. Cucumbers in Advanced Stage. — Cucum- bers in an advanced stage will want clear- ing of dead leaves, and the soil stirred about them, and probably fresh earth added. A toad kept in a frame will destroy a great many woodlice and other insects, and keep the plants cleaner than they otherwise would be. The presence of insect pests in the culture of cucumbers or melons is chiefly, if not wholly, the result of mismanagement ; but where they do appear it is advisable to get rid of them as soon as possible. Red spider and mil- dew are counteracted by sulphur, thrips and aphis by fumigating with tobacco, which is the safest means ; but more credit is due to the cultivator who, by judicious care and management, keeps his plants clear of them. Cucumbers in Open Ground. — Plants in- tended for open-air culture, if sown last month, will be ready for ridging out. A south border, or between rows ot tall peas or scarlet runners, ranging north and south, will suit them. Open a trench 4 or 5 leet JUNE. 656 JUNE. wide, and fill with prepared stable dung to the thickness of 3 feet ; cover this with a foot of soil ; place the plants 5 or 6 feet apart, two or three together, and cover with handglasses. Cucumbers, Management of. — Cucumbers at this season of the year do best with a considerable amount of shade ; this should be attended to, and the necessary bottom heat and moisture kept up. Keep the vines thin and regular by frequent stopping. In planting out at this season use a rather poor, in preference to a rich soil, which in cold, wet seasons produces canker. Cucumbers on Trellis. — Cucumbers are sometimes allowed to trail over a trellis. By this means the fruit is suspended, and no glass tubes are required to keep them straight ; some, even when grown on a bed, are tied up with sticks for the same purpose. When tubes are used, it is some- times necessary to watch them, in order that, during the swelling of the fruit, they are not wedged into the tubes so tightly that they are difficult to withdraw. Care should be taken that the bloom which adorns the fruit is not removed in cutting them. In the application of lining, to maintain the heat, in watering and giving air, &c., proceed as before. Flowers in Hotbeds, &c. — As regards flowers, there will be few, if any, under bottom heat in hotbeds at this period of the year : those, indeed, that are under glass at all will be in cool frames, and will require abundance of air and judicious shading. Flowers — Seedlings for Winter Bloom- ing. — Seedling Chinese primroses, cine- rarias, and other plants required to furnish the winter supply of bloom, should now be forwarded by shifting into pots. Keep them in a cool frame where a slight shade can be given them in hot weather, or else turn the frame to the north. Look to the stock of plants out of doors in showery weather, to see they are not suffering from imperfect drainage. Throw screens over delicate plants during heavy rains, especially such as have been recently potted. Lawn Mowings as Mulching. — Many growers make use of lawn mowings for lining hotbeds. Now, although it may be useful in a certain manner, it is far from being a proper material : it heats too violently, and the roots of plants recoil from it. It also has the very disagreeable property of breeding swarms of insects ; it is, therefore, advisable to avoid using it about frames. It may be used more advantageously as mulch for kitchen crops, strawberries, or ridge cucumbers or melons : laid on the surface of the ground, and spread out, it is soon dried, and loses its power of doing harm. Melons. — These may be started for suc- cession ; for, as melons are not generally continuous bearers, nothing is gained by endeavouring to induce old plants to bear again. It is more satisfactory to raise fresh plants and make new beds for them, unless, indeed, they are planted on old beds newly lined. With a tolerable bottom heat, the growth of these plants is very rapid at this time of the year ; and though they may be grown without it, still, for the production of fine fruit, heat is indispensable. Melons ', Management of. — Where tho fruit is swelling off, the roots will mosi probably have penetrated the lining ; if so, this must not be disturbed, but fresh dung added to it ; but care must be taken that the rank heat has passed from the new lining, or the roots will be injured. It is advisable to raise the fruit on tiles or slates, or some such material ; boards are not so well, as they are more likely to harbou* woodlice under them. Pinch back all use- less shoots, but keep the plants regularly furnished with healthy leaves. Melons in Open Ground. — Melons, like JUNE. 657 JUNE. cucumbers, may be grown on ridges. Some of the Cantalupe varieties do very well this way ; but it is advisable to get the plants strong before turning out. Grow them in frames till they are established in 32-pots ; then plant them in the same way as directed for cucumbers, making the soil rather firm, and protecting with hand- glasses. Vegetable Marrows, <5rV. — If ridges are prepared in the same way, vegetable mar- rows, gourds, &c., may be planted on them, or the seed may be dibbed in at intervals of 6 or 8 feet ; they will grow and be in time to bear in August ; they like a light rich soil, and grow very fast after midsum- mer. The ice plant, which is sometimes used for garnishing, may be treated in pre- cisely the same manner. June.— Glasshouses for Fruit, &c., Work in. Cherries in Pots. — About the second week turn out cherries in pots into an open quarter of the garden, placing some turfy loam round the balls. This will invigorate them much better than keeping them in pots through the summer. Peach House. — The ripe fruit should be looked over each morning, to gather such as are likely to ripen in a day or two. The fruit will be higher in flavour than when allowed to ripen on the tree, and will save them from getting bruised in falling, to which heavy fruit of the peach is very liable, with the best contrivances to catch them. As the crop is gathered, the young wood should be so exposed as to ripen well ; on this depends next year's success, in a great measure. Not a single unneces- sary shoot should be retained. The tree should be well washed with the syringe, and all foreign matter removed from the leaves. Peach House, Ventilation of, &c. — Give all the air possible to ripe fruit, and shade where it is desirable, to prolong the season. Bring on the second house by an increased temperature ; keep damp by the frequent use of the engine, and sprinkle the floors, &c. ; at closing time give the inside border a good soaking with weak manure water. Keep a moist atmosphere where the fruit is swelling ; water freely ; give plenty of air, especially in the forenoon. Pinery. — The principal crop of summer pines, now swelling their fruit, must be en- couraged by frequent waterings, using liquid manure alternately. Support each fruit in an upright position, and remove useless gills and suckers, reserving only sufficient of the latter for stock. Shade with some light material during the middle of bright sunny days, unless vines are grown over them ; bearing in mind that, the more light they get, the better will be the colour and flavour of the fruit. Pines, Early, for Spring. — When ripe fruit is required next April or May, a portion of them should now be selected, and have their final shift. The best early pines are the Old Queen's, Prickly Cayenne, and the Black Antigua. Pines, Management of Ripening Fruit. — Withhold water from fruit directly a change of colour is discernible. If the fruit is growing in pots, lift them on the surface of the bed, which will help to im- prove both colour and flavour. Fires will be required, to allow for extra ventilation, which at this period of the crop's ripening is more than ever necessary. Do not allow the bottom heat to decline. Pines, Plants for Autumn Fruiting, &c. — That portion of the fruiting stock which did not show fruit in February will now be most likely to show. These should be taken care of, as they will bring heavy fruit in October. To assist them, remove the suckers and gills, and keep them reg&- ly supplied with weak manure water, and frequently damp with the syringe. JUNE. 658 JUNE. Plants which have been kept back for autumn supply should now be induced to fruit, backward plants being dry for that purpose, and exposed to the light. When the fruit appears, shift plants requiring more pot room, and place them where they are to ripen. The most suitable sorts for autumn and winter use are the two varieties of Cayenne, Black Jamaica, and Queens. Pines ', Succession, Treatment of. — Suc- cession pines should, at the end of the month, be growing very fast, and require air in liberal quantities, both back and front. Water as they require it, using liquid manure occasionally, clarified, to prevent its choking up the drainage pro- perties of the soil. Maintain a steady bottom heat, and pot the suckers of the plants from which the fruit is cut. As the stools are removed to make way for other plants, all succession plants requiring re- potting should new be shifted. When replunged, leave plenty of room for the foliage to spread out, and place them near the glass, watering with weak manure water once a week or fortnight, according to their requirements. Pines, Ventilation for. — Give air early, increasing it as the day advances, and close early in the afternoon, at which time the plants, beds, and interior walls should be damped over. When the nights become warmer, a little air may again be put on, which will assist the colouring of the fruit. To insure strong, sturdy plants, maintain a uniform bottom heat of 90° during the season of active growth. The frosty nights which occasionally occur, and cloudy or rainy days, require that this temperature should be kept up by fire heat. Vines, Artificial Heat for. — Although the nights are now getting warm, it will still be necessary to apply artificial heat, both in houses ripening and in later crops now in bloom, especially where Muscats and ctther shy setters are grown, as they rarely form perfectly shaped bunches with- out a warm and dry atmosphere, which in our climate requires fire heat. In thinning the later crop of grapes, lay out the bunches well, and leave the berries thinner than the early ones ; the grapes will keep all the better from not being too thickly set in the bunch. Vines for Late Crops. — Where vines have been retarded for late grapes, by being turned out, they should now be brought into the house and trained to the trellis or rafters, and invigorated by syringing, to encourage the growth of young wood. Vines, Foliage. — Supposing a crop of grapes to have been gathered from early- started vines, it is still very important to keep the foliage in a green and healthy state for the next two or three months, when they shed them. This should be so done, however, as to prevent a second growth taking place ; the borders should be gently watered, the red spider kept down by using the syringe, and air given on every possible occasion ; the leaves may thus be kept in a healthy state, highly use- ful to the vine while it ripens its wood. By this means vines endure early forcing for many years without much diminution of their energy. Vines in Pots. — Vines training in pots for next season's fruiting require daily attention and stopping ; when they have attained a proper length required for fruiting, stop the laterals and expose the principal leaves to the light. Water with liquid manure when the pots are full of roots. Vines, Keeping Grapes. — When grapea require to be kept for some considerable time, they must be shaded during bright weather, otherwise the fruit will become shrivelled. If the shoots have been stopped at one or two joints above the fruit, the laterals (which should be taken clean out up to the bunch), should be stopped back JUNE. 659 JUNE. to one joint, unless the previously formed leaves are already sufficiently close to- gether, when they should be stopped close back. All after-growths are injurious when not required for shade. Fines, Management of after Removal of Crop. — As the crops are cut, let the vines be cleaned and syringed, to destroy any red spider established since the ripening of the crop ; they may be easily eradicated now. Both inside and outside borders will require water occasionally. Admit air freely at all times. The object now is, by careful management, to preserve the foliage in a healthy state for the next two months, that a supply of properly elaborated sap may be stored up for next season. Vines, Planting New Borders for. — Where new vine borders have been made in the spring, the present is a favourable time for planting, if the vines have been started sufficiently long to have a shoot of moderate length. In planting, liberate the roots freely, and spread them in the direc- tion of the border, giving a slight watering, and mulching the surface. The house should be kept rather closer for a few days, shading the newly planted vines, if disposed to flag, until they show indications of starting, when the usual routine must be followed, preserving the young vines from injury by tying and training the leader up the roof. Vines with Ripened Crops. — Houses where the grapes are ripe should be kept dry, and succession crops encouraged by a little heat, according to their several stages. Vines \ Stopping, Ventilating, Sprinkling, &c. — Stop all lateral shoots in the succes- sion house after thinning the crop, that nothing may interfere with the swelling of the fruit. As the season advances, air must be given in abundance, the ventilators being left partially open by night. To prevent the atmosphere from becoming too dry during hot weather, keep the floors, interior walls, paths, and pipes, damp by sprinkling several times a day. This will also assist to keep in check the ravages of the red spider. June.— Greenhouse, Work in. Achimenes, Gesnerias, Gloxinias, &c. — Achimenes, gesnerias, gloxinias, &c., as they begin to show for bloom, should be moved to more airy quarters, keeping them, however, partially shaded for a time. Achimenes must be carefully attended to with water while growing. Azaleas and Camellias. — Keep a damp growing heat to camellias and azaleas making wood ; the latter are very liable to become infested with thrips, which can only be kept down by fumigating with tobacco alternate nights for a week, and syringing at the same time with diluted tobacco water, until the appearance of the pest is gone. Azaleas, Chinese, &*c. — At the end of the month, Chinese azaleas and camellias intended to bloom early next season, and which have by this time nearly completed their growth, should be exposed to more light and air, to harden their wood before setting them out of doors. As soon as the wood is somewhat firm, and the buds for next season make their appearance, is a favourable time for repotting such as re* quire it, and if caution is used to prevent exciting them into a second growth, the blooms will be finer than when the plants are potted before the year's growth com- mences. Azaleas, <5rV., Over-potting. — Plants in- tended for forcing should on no account be over-potted at any time, and both camellias and azaleas are often shy of bloom when forced after a large shift. Another ad vantage in keeping plants for forcing rather under-potted, is that they are often required to be turned out of their pots to fill vases, tazzas, &c., in the drawing-room, whew in JUNE. 660 JUNE. bloom, which can be done without much injury to plants when they have completely filled their pots with roots. Azaleas, &-V., Ripening Wood. — The utmost vigilance will now be required in keeping the more choice plants in a healthy growing state, and at the same time pre- serving the proper uniformity of growth to insure perfect and well-bloomed specimens. The precise time when the active growth should cease, and its energies be directed to maturing the current year's wood, can scarcely be laid down as a rule — the habit of the plant must be taken into considera- tion. It will, however, be safer, in general, to get the wood of delicate plants especially ripened early ; for though they may not get to be such large plants, they will be better able to resist the attacks of mildew in the ensuing winter, and the disposition to form bloom buds is always greater in plants ripening their wood early. Young plants growing into specimens, and where for a year or two bloom is no object, may, after their first growth is over, and being allowed a month's rest (during which time keep them rather dry), be started into growth again, giving them a larger pot, if such is necessary, and paying the same attention to the second growth, by stopping, training, &c., as directed for plants in general. Balsams, &c. — The stock of balsams and other annuals grown for filling the vacant places in the greenhouses, &c., should be encouraged by frequent shifts ; keep them in bottom heat, and near the glass ; pick off the early formed bloom buds, as the plant should attain a con- siderable size before being allowed to bloom. Chrysanthemums. — Place in their bloom- ing pots the principal stock of chrysanthe- lauras, using for potting a rather heavy loam with a portion 01 well -rotted cow dung. Fuchsias. — These, if not in their blooming pots, should be potted at once. Train in the desired form, and pinch back weak and straggling shoots. Japanese Lilies, &C. — The glass must be taken entirely off Japan lilies — of which Lilium auratum in the annexed illustration affords a good specimen — gladioli, &c., unless very early blooms are desired. Keep a portion in the shade of a north wall for a succession of bloom. Take care the plants stand on a bottom carefully prepared, to prevent worms getting into the pots. The more tender kinds should be placed under a slight framework, with oil canvas or tarpauling attached, to protect them during heavy rains. When the greenhouses are thus partially covered, a portion of the more hardy stove plants may be introduced. This exposure, during the hot months of summer, to a large portion of air, will benefit the growth of many soft-wooded plants, particularly of such as are being grown for blooming iate in the autumn. Geraniums. — Specimenscarlet geraniums should likewise have liberal encouragement to grow them on. Kalosanthes or Rochea. — Continue to train these neatly, and water with liquid manure occasionally. Orange- Trees. — Large orange-treesgrown for the flower garden or grounds during the summer months may now be moved to the places they are to occupy. If they have been kept cool and airy, they will not have commenced their new growth, which should not take place till they are out of doors. Examine the roots to see that the drainage is perfect, and that in watering the water passes freely through the ball. They should have a free sunny exposure, but they must be protected from high winds. Pelargoniums. — Common and fancy pelargoniums for late blooming will thrive better in a somewhat shady situation, and JUNE. 661 JUNE. (the latter especially) where they can at the same time be protected from heavy rains. Fumigate whenever green fly ap- pears ; for, if suffered to get the upper hand, it soon disfigures the plant. Plants Going Out of Bloom.— Specimens and choice plants nearly done blooming should have the faded blooms picked off, and be well washed with the syringe ; they should be placed in a cool, shady situation to recover themselves before potting, which, as before advised, should on no account take place until a fresh growth has commenced. Shading, &>c. — Shading will be necessary to all descriptions of plant houses, unless the roofs are covered with creepers ; paths, floors, &c., keep damp by throwing water over them, to preserve something like humidity in the atmosphere of the house, which, under the extreme dryness of the external air, is extremely difficult to keep up. Treatment of Plants Placed Out. — Plants, when placed out, should be plunged in ashes, or have the space between the pots filled with moss ; and those plants in the house which have their pots most exposed should be inserted in larger ones, and the space filled with moss, sawdust, &c. This will prevent excessive evapora- tion from the soil containing the roots, through the sides of the pots, and will save many plants from being lost during very hot weather. June.— Hothouse, Work in. Climbing Plants. — About the second week, stove and conservatory climbers will require attention to keep the current year's shoots within proper limits. Avoid any- thing like formality in arranging the branches. If at the winter regulation of the plants the main shoots were trained to occupy the desired position, the young \ wood may be allowed considerably tol follow its natural mode of growth, if this does not create confusion, which is equally as much to be guarded against as a strict formality. Hardenbergias, Kennedyas, &c., may slightly be cut back, after blooming, to induce a new growth. Fires.— At the latter end of the month, as the solar light will be approaching the maximum point, and solar heat also, fires may be discontinued in the hothouses, except on the evenings of wet days, when a little fire will be necessary to allow of admitting air freely in the morning. As plants at this season will be making way fast, air must be admitted liberally, which, in conjunction with light, will help to arrest the rapid growth of those plants whose disposition to bloom mainly depends on a free exposure to both at the same time. Orchids. — Orchids will now be making free growth, and as solar light and heat are approaching the maximum point, an atmosphere humid in proportion must be maintained. The paths, walls, &c. , should be frequently damped on bright days, and the plants gently dewed over once or twice daily. Air may now be given more liberally, moderating its admission, how- ever, so as to prevent strong currents of air blowing on the plants. Shade regularly in bright weather, placing such plants that bear a pretty free exposure to the sun's rays in the lightest part of the house, Make it a rule to examine plants in baskets, &c., that the necessary dampness of the growing material may be uniform, for nothing tends more to check the growth of orchids than want of attention to this in the growing season. Zygopetalums, cyr- topodiums, and other terrestrial genera, will be benefited by being plunged ia bottom heat during the season of active growth. Prolongation of Blooming Period. — Re- move to houses with a north aspect, Management and Pur- poses of. — The purposes of hotbeds are limited at this time of the year, at least in most places. Cucumbers, melons, &c., are usually grown in houses and pits that are otherwise unoccupied at present ; and as their culture is more cleanly, and with greater comfort that way, hotbeds may be dispensed with for a time ; but those already in operation will require attention. The weather is usually hot this month and next, but is often changeable, and the manager of frames must be ruled by it. We sometimes have sudden and heavy showers, which would drench the plants and beds through if they were uncovered, probably to the destruction of the plants ; yet plenty of fresh air is necessary ; and the sudden changes produced by the sun being obscured by clouds for a time, and then bursting forth hot and fierce, must be provided against. It is in such cases that a little shade may be advantageous ; but it must be very slight, and not be left on a moment longer than is really required. Melons. — Plants raised at the beginning ot this month may be put out in the ordinary manner hi a common melon pit, with a good body of dung ; but, if planted 1 later, it must be so that heat can be applied to ripen the fruit, which, occurring in the shortening days, will want assistance from artificial heat. Plants that are ripening their fruit must have very little water. For melons and cucumbers in houses, &c., keep up a steady bottom heat and afford free ventilation, more especially in wet weather. Keep the strictest watch for red spider and mildew ; for both of which, sulphur, properly applied, is the best pre- ventive, in addition to keeping the roots in action by a well-adjusted bottom heat. Roses y &c.y Propagation of. — Many gar- deners make hotbeds at this time tor propagating plants, as roses and green- house plants, and also for other purposes connected with the flower garden, &c. Hotbeds made in the ordinary way are very suitable, and have their advantages, and where the material is plentiful, they are probably the best ; but a very useful bed for propagating and raising seeds, &c., is made as follows :— Having pre- pared the dung as usual, lay the foundation as lor an ordinary bed, but commence from the bottom an opening which leaves the bed hollow in the interior, the sides and ends of the bed being sloped upwards all round from a point in the centre ; drain pipes are laid to conduct the heat from the linings into this hollow, which is covered by boards laid across, on which the frame rests ; the boards may then be covered with soil, ashes, tan, or dung ; while the heat of the bed lasts the pipes must be plugged up, but opened when lining is applied, to conduct the heat into the bed. Strawberries for Forcing. — Proceed to pot strawberries for forcing ; as soon as the pots in which the runners were layered become filled with roots, pot them in 6- or 7-inch pots, using rich loam of medium texture and well-rotted dung, and drain well. The kinds intended for early forcing need not have quite such large pots as those JULY. 671 JULY. intended for a later supply. When potted, place them in an open situation exposed to the sun, placing them on boards, or a prepared bottom, to prevent worms from getting to the roots. July.— Glasshouses for Fruit, &c. /jt^y. —Trees that are swelling off their second crop should be assisted with liquid manure freely, more especially if growing in pots or tubs. As the fruit ripens, care must be taken to preserve them from damp, which the frequent syringing to keep down insects induces ; it should, therefore, be a rule to look over and pick the ripe fruit every morning, and syringe directly afterwards. Admit air freely, and pinch out the points of the young wood when grown sufficiently long. This will assist the swelling of the fruit, and produce useful spurs for bearing next year. It should be a rule so to manage figs during the summer, that nothing further than a slight thinning out should be wanted in the winter pruning. Nectarines and Peaches. — Any tendency to decay of the leaves when the fruit has been gathered should be prevented by syringing and watering the roots. Fruit coming to maturity will be all the more delicious for a comparatively cool tem- perature while ripening. Examine daily and gather before it is over-ripe. The great object now is to get the wood properly ripened j and that will be best promoted by a full exposure to the sun, the air, the rain, and the dews, by remov- ing the sashes and top lights. Pinery. — Plants Ripening Fruit. — Still continue to supply fruit swelling with water, and syringe frequently, but not during bright sunshine, unless the shading is immediately put on. Young plants growing fast will require liberal waterings, in addition to ftir in large quantities by day; the tem- perature will allow them to have a good portion by night. During hot weather forced fruits of all descriptions will be benefited by this practice. Pines for Autumn and Winter Fruit- ing.— About the second week, the plants selected in the spring for autumn and winter fruiting will be showing fruit ; and if they are in a pit by themselves, will require, if a steady bottom heat is kept up, but little attention for some time, except slight shading, plenty of air, and a liberal allowance of water. On no account, however, let the plants be wetted while in bloom. Some pines having large flowers, as the Jamaica, &c., frequently cut up with black spots in the middle, although ap- parently sound outside, which arises from a small quantity of water passing through the bloom to the fruit cells, and causing the latter to decay. Pines for Succession* — Let succession plants have abundance of air day and night, to encourage a stocky growth, and water freely when the pots become full of roots. Keep the bottom heat steady. At this season the young staff" may be potted whenever they require a shift. Where it is intended to plant out the fruiting stock for next year, a sufficient quantity of loam, peat, and sand should be in readiness for use. Directly the present crop is cut, the stump should be cleared out, and either all or part of the soil removed, according as it may appear exhausted. Pitst Management of. — As soon as the principal part of the present crop is ripe, the pit will most likely be required either for fruiting the winter stock, or for the succession intended for next season's fruit- ing. Whatever fruit, therefore, may yet remain to ripen should be carefully re- moved to one. end of the pit, unless cir- cumstances enable you to transfer them to a house devoted to fruiting the autumn | and winter supply, in which case the house JULY. 672 JULY. may be cleared whenever the principal part is cut. The bottom heat must be freshened up by the addition of fresh material, and made ready for plunging the new stock of plants as they are placed in their fruiting pots. Repairing House. — In the meantime advantage should be taken of putting the house in repair, if requisite, and the heat- ing apparatus in a state of efficiency, as no such favourable opportunity will occur again for a twelvemonth. Ventilation. — As the houses are cleared of their fruit, and the wood is ripened, it will be much benefited by having the lights off, and by being freely exposed to the atmosphere for a time. Air must be given in abundance by night as well as day, and the necessary stopping of lateral growths and thinning of the fruit in the last house proceeded with. Watch for mildew, which is caused by excess of moisture, and must be checked by the sulphur remedy, which consists in dusting all affected parts with sulphur in the form of a fine dry powder. The disease shows itself in spots or blotches on the leaves, and a dirty, unwholesome thick dust or mould, which spreads itself over the branches and berries. This, as it has been said, is the consequence of an excess of moisture; too little moisture, on the other hand, will produce red spider, which may be checked by fumigation with sul- phur, or prevented, which is better, by maintaining a suitable moist condition of the air of the house, a happy medium, in fact, between insufficiency of moisture and a superabundance of it. Vinery. — Shading, <5rV. — Ripe grapes, if required to be kept, must be shaded during hot sun, to prevent their becoming shrivelled. The Muscat, Sweetwater, and Frontignan, having tender leaves, are most liable to burn, either from bad glass or imperfect ventilation; in which case they must be well watched, as the injury done to the foliage not only affects the present crop, but the succeeding one as well. Any heat given now should be given during the day, in order to their getting well forward before the season gets too far on. Under this treatment they all keep longer and have a finer flower, keep- ing the outside borders of the late crops watered and well mulched. Vines in Pots. — Vines in pots intended to fruit next season should now be well supplied with manure water, to swell out and perfect their buds. July.— Hothouse, Work in. Such stove plants as are intended to flower in the winter, as justicias, Eranthe- mum pulchellum, euphorbias, jasmines, &c., should be looked to. Many of these things require to be kept in small pots, and should be watered with liquid manure to grow them on without getting into too large pots. Encourage plants now estab- lished by using liquid manure. Young plants growing into specimens will require constant stopping and trying to get them into proper form. In shifting for the season, many conservatory plants will now be in the open air ; but some of the New Holland, such as Boronia pinnata and B. serrulata, still require a little heat and pretty free stopping to insure handsome plants. Achimenes, Clerodendrons, Gloxinias, &c. — Achimenes, gloxinias, &c., out of bloom should be removed to a pit to ripen their bulbs. Clerodendrons, &c., in the same way may be transferred to vineries, or any place where there is a dry cool atmosphere. Azaleas. — Chinese azaleas should be turned out. Unlike camellias, they re- quire full exposure to sun and air, and should be placed in an open situation, that their wood may become thoroughly JULY. 673 JULY. ripened. It will, however, perhaps be necessaiy to place them for a week or two in a partially shaded situation, to harden their foliage sufficiently to bea the full sun, or the sudden change from a house to full sunshine might cause their leaves to turn brown or burn. Annuals for Indoor Blooming. — Balsams thunbergias, and other annuals intended to decorate the conservatory and show house for the next two months, should be finally potted, using soil of a light and rich des- cription. Keep down spider with the syringe. Bntgmansias.— Brugmansias, and similar plants of vigorous habit, should be fre- quently assisted with manure water ; as they are often troubled with the red spider, the engine and syringe must be kept constantly at work to keep them down, taking care, however, not to injure the fine foliage. Cactuses and Succulents. — Succulent plants, as cactuses, euphorbias, cereuses, sedums, and others of similar habit, re- quire to be abundantly supplied with water, and also a full exposure to the sun, in order to obtain a fine bloom. Offsets of these plants may now be struck in beds or pots of light compost, without the aid of artificial heat, but they root more readily in bark, or on a hotbed under a frame. Camellias. — Camellias, whenever the young wood appears getting ripe, may be removed to the open air ; they thrive best in the shade; they must be placed on a dry bottom to prevent worms from getting into the pots. Chorozemas. — Propagate by cuttings some time during this month, or in August. These greenhouse plants are useful additions to the tenants of any house, because they remain in bloom for the greater part of the year, and more especially in winter and early spring. [ 44 The plants themselves are easily managed, and the flowers are desirable for decorative purposes and bouquets. For soil, use a rich turfy peat, mixed with fibrous loam, leaf mould, and gritty sand. When freshly potted, they should be put in a close pit or the warmest part of a greenhouse, and be sparingly watered at the roots until they get into free growth. When tho- roughly established they may be watered twice a week with clear liquid manure. Creepers and Climbers. — Ipomaeas, thun- bergias, passion flowers, and all other creepers, should be neatly trained to their respective trellises as they advance, keep- ing them fresh and healthy by frequent watering, and by picking off all decaying leaves; and, where the plants are flagging, water them with very weak liquid manure. Epacrises. — Keep epacrises under glass till their growth is complete ; but more air and light must be allowed them, in- creasing as the wood gets firmer. Towards the end of the month they may be placed out of doors in an open situation, where they can be protected from heavy rains. Young specimens should be carefully trained, the shoots neatly tied down or pegged, to insure a close compact habit. Hard-wooded Plants. — Repotting, — Hard- wooded plants, including most of the genera from New Holland, which bloom early in the spring, will about the middle of the month be so far advanced in their new growth that any requiring repotting should at once have a shift. After turning them out, loosen the outside roots before placing them in their new pots, to enable them to ake up the fresh soil more readily. Keep hem close for a few days, especially if the roots have been much disturbed, and damp hem once or twice daily overhead. Heaths, &-Y., for Winter Blooming. — Attention at this season should be directed o the stock of plants intended to furnish he supply of bloom through the winter, as JULY. 674 JULY. k is requisite plants should complete their growth early for this purpose. Among heaths, those which flower through the winter should be encouraged to complete their growth. At no period of the year do heaths and hard -wooded plants in general require more care than the present, more particularly such as have been recently potted. To keep the old ball sufficiently moist to preserve the plant in health in the high temperature without getting the new soil in a sour state, requires great nicety in watering, suppos- ing the plants to be under glass. Oranges and Lemons. — Orange and lemon-trees will now be in bloom, and should be supplied with water at least three times a week in dry weather, and be occasionally supplied with liquid manure after stirring the surface of the soil and top-dressing. Orange-trees when too full of bloom should have the flowers thinned out. They are always in request for dry- ing or distilling. The young fruit when too thickly set should also have a thinning. In order to procure dark glossy foliage, water with clear soot water. Oranges, &<:., Budding and Grafting. — Oranges, camellias, azaleas, and other hard-wooded plants, can now be budded or grafted ; and hi the beginning of the month, myrtles, oleanders, and jasmines propagated by layers. All pots and tubs, especially orange and lemon plants, require stirring on the surface of the soil, and top dressed and watered when required. Oranges^ Stocks for. — The stocks for budding orange-trees are raised from seeds sown in March or April in pots of rich earth, and plunged into a hotbed. In five or six weeks the plants will come up, when they are planted singly in thumb pote, and plunged into a fresh hotbed, raising the frame as the plants increase in height, to encourage their growth. In August they will be 1 8 or 20 inches high, when they may be removed into the greenhouse, placing them near the lights. In March or April shift them into larger pots, and plunge again into a hotbed, gradually exposing them to the air towards the end of May, to harden them, turning them out from June till August. In the third summer they will be fit for budding, for which they are prepared by removal into the greenhouse, giving them plenty of air and light, but turning the side on which they are to be budded from the sun, and shading the whole plant from its fiercest heat. Three weeks before budding, the plant may be plunged into a moderate hotbed of tanner's bark, where it can have free ventilation. Pelargoniums. — June and July are the best months for increasing this plant. Cuttings struck at this season from plants which have been forced, and the wood thoroughly ripened, produce fine plants for autumn flowering and early spring forcing, supplying the want of flowers in the conservatory in winter and spring. Pelargoniums for Autumn Blooming- — When autumn-flowering plants are required, take cuttings in early summer, when they will strike freely ; fill the pot half full of broken potsherds, and fill up with a com- post of equal parts of good turfy loam, peat, and well-decomposed cow dung and leaf mould, with a good portion of silver sand. By the end of July the plants will require to be repotted, taking care that this is repeated as often as roots fill the pots. As the season advances, a little heat will make them expand their blossoms more freely. July.— Greenhouse, Work in. Plants after Blooming, Treatment of. — Greenhouse plants, after they have done blooming, should have a comparatively cool temperature, and no structure presents so many advantages ior this purpose, as JULY. 6 well as for growing delicate-leaved plants through the summer, as houses having a north aspect ; while for the purpose of retarding plants, or for preserving them in bloom, it is indispensable. Such plants, therefore, as epacrises, leschenaultias, pimeleas, aphelexis, and others of similar habit, which have been kept for late bloom and are now over, should be placed in a house of the above description, or in deep frames, with the sashes turned to- wards the north, having first picked off the old remaining blooms ; here, with gentle syringing once or twice daily, the plants may remain till the new growth commences, when any pruning they may require may be given, and afterwards placed in a more favourable situation for ripening their wood. The flowers of heaths and other plants that have done flowering should be removed, and all straggling branches stopped. Shifting and Repotting.— Fuchsias, gera- niums, achimenes, and salvias requiring larger pots, should now be shifted, remov- ing the entire ball, and placing in the centre of the new pot, properly drained and half filled with fresh compost, having first trimmed the roots and removed the outside soil ; the pot is then filled with compost, well watered, and put away in an airy but shaded situation to settle. Ventilation. — At this season all the air possible should be given to the greenhouse and most stove plants, keeping it on all night. July.— Kitchen Garden, Work in. Artichokes will now be in bearing. Cut when the heads are about three parts open. These root deeply, and scarcely require water. Asparagus. — Cease cutting early this month, unless some parts can be spared for laie use, when it must have a rest the 5 JULY. following season. Late cutting has the effect of weakening the roots, but they will recover after a season's rest, if they have not been cut too closely. Hoe frequently between the rows. Beans. — Pull up early crops as soon as they have done bearing; those advanc- ing will produce better for being well watered, for which purpose make a groove each side of the rows, and give enough to soak the ground to a considerable depth ; they had better be left alone than ineffi- ciently watered. Beans, French. — A late sowing of these may be made any time this month ; for which purpose dwarf kinds, as the Newing- ton Wonder, are best. Sow on unmanured soil ; thin out those sufficiently above ground to 4 or 6 inches apart, and draw plenty of earth up to the stems, which will stay them in windy weather. Beans, Runner. — Apply strong sticks, if not already done. These may be kept dwarf by picking off the runners as fast as they appear ; but it is much better to let them have full play by providing supports — the produce is tenfold greater. Beet. — See that this crop is properly thinned, and keep the ground well hoed between. Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, and Savoys. — The principal crops of these should be got out this month. Plant them in drills 2 fee' apart, and 18 inches in the rows. If liabk to club, dip the roots in a puddle of clay and soot before planting, or fill up the holes with wood ashes, which will prevent it in a great measure. Cabbage. — Sow for coleworts early this month, and for early cabbaging about the end of this month ; strew lime or soot over the young plants to drive away the fly. This should be done in the morning, while the dew is on them. Plant out for autumn use. Cardoons, like celery, should be got out JULY. 6 in the trenches, remembering that these crops require a soil highly enriched with manure ; they should also have plenty of room and abundance of water. Be not hasty in earthing up. Carrots. — Seed may be sown any time this month, as its produce will be useful in winter and spring. Sow on an open spot, and do not dig the ground deep. Look over the main crop, and pull up any that are running to seed ; they will be of no use if left. Take care that no weeds are allowed to grow amongst them. Caulifloiver sown now may be useful late in the autumn. Celery. — During this month the main crop should be got out, directions for which were given last month. If this is planted where peas had previously grown, make the trenches between, not on the rows where the ground has been heavily drawn, or the crop will not be so good. It is very proper to give early crops plenty of room, so that, should they not be ready to clear away, such crops as this may be planted between while they are growing. Endive. — Two sowings of this should be made this month ; one at the beginning, another towards the end. Sow in the same way as lettuce, and plant out as soon as large enough to handle. Leeks. — Plant out the main crop on well- manured ground ; plant in deep drills or shallow trenches for the convenience of earthing. This is a strong feeder, and should be well watered. Lettuce sown now will do well on a shady border, provided the spot is not too much overhung by trees. An open, well- manured spot is best for them if kept well watered. Mushroom Beds. — These may yet be made out of doors, providing plenty of clean straw and mats to protect them. Some gardeners make a practice of spawn- ing melon beds, either while the fruit is 6 JULY. ripening or after they are cleared off. It is done in this manner : Clear off the old soil, break the spawn into small pieces, lay it regularly over the bed, and cover it with about 2 inches of horse droppings or very short dung. This, again, is covered with 2 or 3 inches of good loamy soil, and all trodden down and made firm. Heat is applied by means of fresh linings of well- worked dung. Onions. — These may be sown now as an ingredient of salads in the autumn. To- wards the end of this month some of the main crop wyill be showing signs of maturity, when they may be pulled up and laid on their sides, and thick-necked ones may be pinched ; but this should not be done hastily, and probably had better not be yet. Peas. — If any are sown this month, let it be sorts that bear equally, or the shortening days will prevent their bearing at all. Dwarf early sorts are good to sow this month. Clear away any that have ceased to be productive, and stake any that are just above ground. As they grow quickly at this time, any delay in this respect will be inconvenient to the grower as well as damaging to the crop. Copious waterings will greatly benefit those coming into flower, but may be discontinued when they begin to pod, excepting tall sorts, which continue bearing and flowering at the same time. Potatoes. — Pick off the flowers, if pos- sible ; if the potato-apples, which contain the seed, are allowed to form, it is said to diminish the produce, the tubers growing less in proportion to the quantity of seed allowed io ripen. Some advise cutting off the haulm as soon as the disease becomes apparent. Of the efficacy of this remedy there is much doubt, but it may, in a mea- sure, stay the progress of the disease, although at the sacrifice of size in the tubers. JULY. Seakale should have an abundance of water, particularly young plants. Soot or wood ashes strewn about them will, in a great measure, prevent the attack of insects. Spinach. — It is not advisable to sow this month, unless for particular purposes ; but the ground should be prepared for sowing next month, particularly if the ground is heavy. Sweet ffer&s.—M'mt and such-like herbs should be cut for drying just as they begin to flower ; savory, sage, and others, may be now propagated by cuttings or division ; parsley and chervil may be sown now for winter use. Tomatoes should be carefully trained, and stopped as they grow. Stop just over a bunch of flowers, and leave no more shoots than can be conveniently trained. Unless the ground is very dry, they do not require watering, and will most probably do best without it. Turnips. — At the beginning of this month a principal sowing should be made for autumn and early winter use ; and again, towards the end, another principal sowing should be made. These will be useful in winter and following spring. It is better to sow broadcast, and not in drills, and to use the large hoe continually till the plants meet. Some, however, recommend sowing in drills a foot apart, and sowing soot, wood ashes, superphosphate of lime, and other ingredients, at the same time. The seed must be protected from birds. Vegetable Marrows will be in active growth ; and where they are planted on a manure heap, or if liberally mulched with it, they will grow freely enough without watering ; but, if planted on the common soil, they should be freely watered in the morning. Weeds. — During this month it is very necessary to keep the weeds down, as their growth is very rapid in showery weather ; it is also beneficial to crops to keep the 7 JULY. ground stirred between them, and collect all useless matter as fast as possibl*. Winter Crops •, Preparation for. — Pro- bably this is the busiest month of the year in the kitchen garden, both on account of everything growing so fast, and because many crops have ceased to be useful, and must be removed and give place to othery. We have to look forward to a long winter and spring, when vegetation is stationary or very slow : yet at that time it is neces- sary to have suitable crops ; and now is the time to prepare the ground and get them in their places. Stiff soils should be dug some time previous to cropping, especially for sowing small seeds, as turnip. The soil will dry in hard lumps at first ; but advan- tage must be taken of the first shower that wets the soil through, as it will then readily fall to pieces under the rake. On light soils this is of less consequence, and it is as well to sow immediately after digging, as the seeds vegetate quicker. Winter Crops: where to plant. — It is proper to observe that where rows of vege- tables have previously grown, the ground is usually dry and hard. However moist the season has been, it will always be found different to that 18 inches or so on either side ; it is not, therefore, advisable to crop immediately over the same spot ; the difference will soon be observable between the rows planted exactly where peas have grown and those planted at the distance indicated. It has been found best not to plant winter crops on ground that has been newly dug or trenched, and never knew broccoli do so well as when planted on hard ground that had not been dug since Feb- ruary ; but when the plants had taken hold, and began to grow, the ground was forked over, and a dressing of manure worked in. It is said by practised gardeners that brassicse are far more liable to club on loose or newly trenched ground ; but much may depend on the nature of the soil. JULY. 678 AUGUST. July .—Orchard House, Work in. Ventilation is now the greatest care ; fasten back and front shutters down, so that they cannot be closed ; syringing night and morning, and watering copiously when dry. If any trees are growing too rapidly, tilt up *he pots, and cut off all the roots on that side which are making their way into the soil. A week later, serve the other side in the same way. If the surface is getting hard from watering, place some fresh compost loosely on the surface. Pinch in all lateral shoots to within two buds of their base. On the loth and the 25th lift the pots in order to break off the roots. Ripening Fruit out of Doors. —Remove all trees into the open air, to ripen their fruit in a sheltered sunny spot. This gives them a piquant and racy flavour, unknown to fruit gathered from wall trees. Summer pinching of pyramids and bushes requires rigid attention. July.-Shrubbery, Work in. Borders, Bedsy and Shrubberies. — Order and neatness should now reign in the beds and borders ; weeds should be rooted out as they appear, by hoeing or hand weed- ing; each individual flower carefully ad- justed, the beds and borders, where not covered with plants, neatly raked, forming a clean and even surface, gently sloping to the edges, the clumps and evergreens free from confusion, unless the effect intended is a thicket of underwood. If the shrubs stand apart, let the ground be hoed and neatly raked ; all flowering shrubs and evergreens pruned of all straggling shoots, and put in order; all herbaceous plants staked and tied in a neat and regular manner; and all decayed flower stalks, flowers, and leaves, be cut down or re- moved. Hedges. — Quick and privet hedge, sihould be closely cut in with the shears ; (ct them bend off a little towards the tops which gives them a better appearance. Hedges of large-leaved plants, such as laurel, Turkey and Lucombe oak, and sweet bay, must have the young wood cut back by the knife, as the shears destroy the beauty of their leaves by cutting them. AUGUST. Aspect and Character of Month. Less rain falls this month than in July, according to the ordinary course of Nature, and the mean temperature is a little higher than in that month, the nights being cer- tainly hotter. The average mean tempera- ture in each month at the surface of the ground, and at the distances of I foot and 2 feet below the surface, is 61 '98°, 6i'8o°, and 61-26°, respectively. The surface of the earth has been receiving and absorbing the sun's rays during the hot months of June and July, and now it begins to give back a portion of its heat by radiation in place of absorbing it, as in the earner months of the year. August.— Conservatory, Work in. General Management. — Flowers are now so abundant in the open ground that an equal profusion would be in bad taste. Those that remain should now have plenty of room and a free circulation of air. Camellias and acacias now require copious watering, taking care that they are not started into second growth. Sprinkle borders daily, and keep up a moist atmos- phere. Train and prune all climbing plants in graceful festoons, avoiding stiff brmal tying in, which prevents free flower- ing in plants of a climbing habit. All plants intended for early forcing should now be placed so that the wood may be thoroughly ripened, for on that chiefly depends the future bloom. AUGUST. AUGUST. August.— Flower Garden, Work in. Bulbs, Autumnal. — Colchicums, nar- cissuses, Guernsey lily, and amaryllis may still be planted in borders, beds, or pots, in light sandy loam. Carnations and Picotees. — These should now be layered, but without shortening the grass. Where seed is required, pick off all decaying petals, to prevent damp injuring the pods. If not wanted for seed, cut down the stems. First-struck pipings may now be planted out, potting a quantity in order to fill up vacancies which may be caused from the ravages of the wireworm, &c, Dahlias. — These plants now require constant watering and attention to tying out lateral shoots, removing superfluous ones, and relaxing the ties. Stir the soil, but not deeply, and give special attention to seedlings, selecting those worth pre- serving, and throwing away worthless varieties. Attend to the training and thinning of the shoots of dahlias : place small inverted pots, with a little dry moss in them, on the top of stakes, for a trap for earwigs. Geraniums. — Now that the planting-out season may be considered over, attention should at once be directed towards furnish- ing a supply of plants for another year. The class of plants which will require pro- pagation first are geraniums, of which both the fancy and common bedding kinds must be struck in time to get established in small pots before winter, and the different scarlets and horseshoe and zonal sorts. There is no plant more useful for decorative pur- poses ; many are, besides, deliciously fra- grant, and there is none whose cultivation is more simple. Geraniums may be easily propagated by thinning out the beds here and there, without much injury to them, and, after making cuttings, inserting them in small beds on a south border, puttin a little silver sand in the holes made to receive them. Hollyhocks require the same attention as to staking and selecting. Pansies.— Make pansy beds of cuttings, &c., that have been struck at earlier periods of the year. Cuttings may still be struck. Perennials, Propagation of. — All double- flowering perennials done flowering may be propagated by slips, and parting the roots towards the end of the month, taking up the whole plant, and dividing it into as many separate plants as there are roots with buds, eyes, or stems. Let every root be trimmed by cutting off the straggling parts or injured roots, picking off all dead leaves, planting them in some shady border, and giving some water. Crassulas, Ian- tanas, hydrangeas, mesembryanthemums, &c., should be struck early to flower freely the following season. Petunias, verbenas, heliotropes, salvias, and lobelias, may be taken in hand next, reserving calceolarias to the last, as they strike better during the cold weather of autumn than earlier in the season. Verbenas and calceolarias may be struck under hand-glasses or in a cold frame. Anagallis, maurandyas, and lopho- spermums may be rooted in sandy soil, if placed in a cold frame, and shaded in bright sunny weather. Maurandya Bar- clayana rosea is an abundant flowerer, but of undecided colours. Plants, Propagation of. — Continue the propagation of plants for next season, in which no time must be lost with the more delicate pelargoniums, in order to get them established before winter. Plant out all recently struck pinks, double wall-flowers, and pansies, keeping a few of the latter in pots for protection during the winter. Roses. — Perpetual flowering roses in dry weather require copious supplies of water. If mildew appears, forming white spots on any of them, syringe the plant with soft AUGUST. 680 AUGUST. ivater in the evening, and dust the affectec parts with ' flour of sulphur. Towards th< end of the month any roses budded las month may have the bandages removec and the place examined, to see that nothing has interfered with the bud, and the band- age restored. Roses, Cuttings of. — Cuttings of Tea- scented, Noisette, China, Bourbon, and Hybrid perpetuals, may be struck in ligh sandy soil over a gentle hotbed. When rooted, pot off and replace in the frames for a few days till the roots begin to move, when they are to be removed and hardened off. Roses in Pots. — Roses standing in pots should never be crowded, but constantly watered and kept in a growing state. Roses, Shoots from Bottom of Stem of. — The Ayrshire, Boursault, Sempervirens, and other climbing roses, frequently send out very luxuriant shoots near the bottom of the stem. These, if not wanted to cover "some weak part of the plant, should be removed. Routine Work. — The flower garden will now be in its greatest beauty, and every means must be taken to keep turf, gravel, and edgings of all kinds in the neatest order ; dead flowers should be picked off daily, and stray growths reduced within proper limits. Trailing and climbing plants should frequently be gone over, to keep them neatly trained and secure after high winds; for the same purpose examine hollyhocks, dahlias, and other tall-growing plants. After removing the dead flowers from roses, encourage the production of autumn blooms in the perpetuals by water- ing with liquid manure, and mulching the surface of the ground where practicable. Saxifrages. — Many varieties of saxifrage may now be propagated: the offsets rise from the sides of the plant, and may now be taken off and planted either in borders wr pots. Among these may be named, Saxifraga crassifolia, S. granulata fiore pleno, S. pelt at a, S. sarmentosa, and S. umbrosa, or London Pride. S. cotyle- don must also be added to the number, which throws up a fine pyramidal spike of blossom 12 inches high. These plants may be propagated by division in spring as well as in autumn. Stocks, Intermediate and Ten- Week. — Intermediate stocks should be sown early in the month, and ten-week stocks of various colours before the middle of the month. The intermediate stocks must be kept in pots throughout the winter for spring flowering. Pot a quantity of Bromptons for the same purpose, planting the remainder in a sheltered spot to take their chance through the winter. Tulips. — Clean and prepare tulip beds, and arrange the plants in their drawers, discarding stained varieties, and adding new ones in their place. August.— Fruit Garden and Or- chard, Work in. Aphis on Trees. — As it is not proper to drench the trees when the fruit is ripe or ripening, any shoots infested with aphis should be cleaned with a brush, or by dip- ng in thick puddle. Apples and Pears. — Trees that happen o be heavily laden require to have their jranches supported ; those against walls and espaliers should be pretty closely topped. Apricots, Peaches, and Nectarines. — These are now ripening rapidly, and should )e exposed to the sun as much as possible :o give them colour. Keep the shoots laid n closely, and remove obstructing leaves, ilways leaving enough for the elaboration of the juices of the tree. Suspend nets, supported by short stakes, beneath the tree, as the ripening period approaches, to catch ny falling fruit, with some soft material in he net to soften the fall. Netting of a fine AUGUST. 681 AUGUST. mesh is also used successfully to keep off the attacks of wasps and flies. Strong shoots that have been stopped have now thrown out laterals, which should be thinned to the number required to cover their allotted space, so that the wood may be thoroughly ripened in the August sun. Should mildew appear, dust with flour of sulphur. If attacked by insects, wash the trees with soapsuds, syringing afterwards with clear water. Blighted Fruit on Standards. — Standard trees, where a regular thinning is not adopted, should be shaken occasionally, to bring down any fruit that may be blighted. These can be no good on the trees, and the sooner got rid of the better. Budding Fruit Trees. — July and August is generally the time for budding fruit trees ; if any stocks are to be budded with differ- ent or better sorts, it should be done with- out delay. Any peaches, nectarines, or other wall trees that are scanty, or unfur- nished with wood in any part, may be altered considerably by the insertion of a few buds. Cherries. — As the fruit is gathered from the earlier sorts, remove the nettings, and wash the trees well with the engine. Cover Morello cherries on north walls with nets. Currants. — Currants near the ground should be gathered first, as the splashing of rain is apt to spoil them. If trees are net- ted or matted over so as to be impervious to birds, flies, &c., fruit on them will keep good till late in the year. Black currants will not keep on the trees, and had better be gathered as soon as ripe. Gooseberries. — The instructions for cur- rants apply equally to gooseberries, of which some varieties, such as the Red Warrington, may be preserved until No- vember, if protected with mats or netting. Raspberries. — Towards the latter end of August, raspberries have generally ceased bearing, and the old canes may be cut down, as they will be of no further service, and are in the way. Their removal gives the new canes a chance to strengthen and ripen the wood. About four or five canes may be left to each stool. This done, it will be advisable to fork the ground over, to des- troy weeds and give a fresh appearance, besides admitting rain. All borders about fruit trees should receive a forking about this time. Autumn-bearing varieties must not be treated in this way until the fruit has been gathered. Snails, Wasps, &c. — Keep a sharp look- out over wall trees ; for snails, wasps, and flies are as fond of choice fruit as man him- self. Snails will attack peaches, nectarines, &c., before they are ripe, and spoil the ap- pearance of every fruit they approach Finding out their haunts, and picking them out with the hand, is the best mode of deal- ing with them ; they are then easily des- troyed by throwing them into salt and water. Wasps and flies must be trapped in bottles, containing sugar and beer dregs, hung about the trees in different places ; o* the trees must be covered with suitable net- ting. Apricots, as soon as they happen to crack, are sure to be attacked ; and as this sometimes happens before the fruit is thoroughly ripe, it is always advisable to cover them, even if other fruits are left without protection. Strawberries. — Beds may be planted ; but it is advisable to get the planting done as soon as possible, if a crop of fruit is expected the following year. Even now it is a good plan to lay the runners in pots, if it can be done ; but, generally, it will be found that strong runners have already rooted by this time, and may be removed with a trowel. Plenty of water is necessary at this time for everything that has been newly planted. If plantations cannot be made now, bed out the plants, so that they may be transplanted during the spring, keeping all the leaves attached to them. AUGUST. 682 AUGUST. Wood, Nailing in. — Nail in all useful wood this month without fail ; trees will scarcely require it after. Remove every shoot that is not really wanted : this may as well be done now as at any other time. August.— Glasshouses for Fruit, &G., Work in. 3. FRUIT UNDER GLASS, HEATED AND UNHEATED. — Grapes, Muscat. — Fires, especially to houses containing Muscat grapes, should be made each evening and during wet dull days, that abundant venti- lation may be kept on. Peaches, Management of. — As the houses are cleared of fruit, the trees should be gone over, and the wood not required for fruit next season should be cut away ; tie the remaining shoots neatly in, without injuring the leaves, removing the laterals as you proceed ; this will allow more light and air to reach the shoots intended to carry next season's fruit, and assist towards maturing well-developed fruit buds. To ripen the wood, close up the house early in the afternoon with a temperature of 85°. In the evening again open the house as much as the sashes will allow ; fires should be made in wet weather, accompanied by air. The aim should be a dry and rather high temperature by day, and as cold a one by night as circumstances permit. Keep down red spider by well syringing every morning, with air on the house. When the leaves begin to change colour, and the wood becomes brown up to the point, the sashes may be removed. Peaches in Pots. — Fruit trees in pots, in- tended for forcing, if the wood is well ripened, supposing they have been growing under glass, may be removed to the foot of a south wall, and in a few weeks to a shady cool place to rest. Pines for Early Forcing. — As soon as the house for next season's fruiting is ready, the plants should be transferred there at once ; the most forward plants should be selected, and have their final shift before removal. When it is desirable to have fruit early, say in April or May, the fruiting- pot must not be too large, as it will be necessary to get the plants into rest early. As a rule they should have their pots well filled with roots by the middle of Septem- ber ; and while growing, allow them all the light you can command and a proportionate quantity of air. The best pines for very easy forcing are the black Antigua, common Queen, and the Providence ; to assist them, a few Jamaicas may be started in October, as they take a couple of months longer to ripen. Pines, Sizes of Pots for. — As the plants are to ripen their fruit in the pots they are now placed in, the size will be regulated by the kind of pine grown, and in some measure by the size of the plant. For Queen's and pines of similar habit, pots of from 12 to 15 inches diameter will be sufficiently large; while pots from 15 to 18 inches will be quite large enough for the largest Providences and Cayennes. Pines for Summer Crop. — The plants for the summer crop may remain for a week or two, unless there are reasons for potting them immediately. They may have a larger shift than recommended for the above, and should be kept longer growing in the autumn. Pines, Watering. — Pines in fruit will re- quire water often, as the pots at this time will be fuller of roots than earlier in the season. Syringe well each ; warm, and close the house afterwards. The pines for winter fruiting will now be in bloom, and while such is the case be careful to keep the syringe from the flowers. Ventilation in Vinery. — Whenever the leaves in the early house show indications of ripening, the sashes should be removed and the vines fully exposed ; beyond stop- ping any late laterals, the vines should not AUGUST. 683 AUGUST. be touched until the leaves fall. While the vines are thus exposed, the sashes, rafters, &c., should be put into a state of repair, and painted, that everything may be in good order when the time for forcing again arrives. If the sashes are not wanted for repairing, they may be used for a variety of purposes, such as ripening grapes, peaches, &c., against walls, forwarding tomatoes, or to assist in the propagation of bedding stuff. Vines in Pots. — Vines in pots, intended to fruit next season, must be closely watched to get the wood perfectly ripened. As they have now completed their growth, liquid manure may be given pretty freely to swell out the buds to carry next season's crop. The plants must be kept close to the glass, and thus exposed to the full influence of light ; great care should be taken of the principal leaves as the wood assumes a brown hue. Lessen the water by degrees, and allow (if practicable) a lower night temperature. Vines, Stopping Young. — Young vines, planted during the past or present season, should be stopped when once they reach the top of the house. Where the rods, however, are intended to carry fruit next season, and the vines are growing freely, six or eight joints beyond where it is in- tended to cut them back should be left, as a too close stopping might cause the prin- cipal eyes to break, and endanger next season's show of fruit. Lateral shoots, after this, may be kept stopped back pretty close, as the object will now be more to ripen the existing wood than to encourage fresh growth. Besides looking over ripe grapes to remove decayed berries and stopping the lateral shoots as they are formed, there are not many instructions to be given for the vinery this month. August.— Hothouse and Green- house, Work in. Ackimenes. — These, as they go out of bloom, may be placed in a frame to ripen their tubers, exposing them fully to the sun, but keeping them rather dry. Amaryllis. — Amaryllids which have perfected their growth may be placed in a dry place to winter. A good example of the Amaryllids is found hi the Scarborough Lily (Amaryllis vallota purpurea). There is one section of this tribe, however, with elongated bulbs, which will not bear to be kept entirely without water, even when in a state of rest. These latter, with Pan- cratium speciosum and P. fragrant^ &c., should be placed on the back shelves of a vinery, or any house of medium tempera- ture, supplying them only with water sufficient to keep their foliage from dying off, Ataleas. — Late-flowering azealeas now require shifting and training, so that the foliage draws out properly before winter. On the slightest indication of thrips, fumi- gate. Brugmansias. — Brugmansias, and other gross-feeding plants, may be liberally sup- plied with liquid manure to maintain them in vigorous health, and at the same time to prolong the period of their blooming. Camellias, S*c. — These also require shift- ing, if not done last month. When they have rooted in the new soil, give them plenty of air day and night, and syringe freely three or four times a week in fine weather. Daphne Indica, both red and white, as well as Magnolia fuscata, are very suitable companions to the camellia, requiring exactly similar treatment and temperature. Chrysanthemums. — Complete the potting of chrysanthemums, and plunge them in ashes or sawdust to save watering. Stake neatly, and stop mildew wherever it appears, by dusting a little flour of sulphur over the infected leaves. Water with liquid manure freely. Cinfrarias, &c. — Pot off seedling cine- AUGUST. 684 AUGUST. rarias, Chinese primroses, and calceolarias from the seed pans when the plants are large enough for the purpose. Epiphyllum. — If the different varieties of epiphyllum have made their growth under glass, they may be removed to a sunny spot out of doors. Flowers in Conservatory. — The principal plants that decorate the conservatory at this season will be with some of the more common annuals — fuchsias, scarlet gera- niums, with achimenes; and where there is room, a considerable number of stove plants and orchids may be safely intro- duced ; and if, in addition, a few palms, &c., be added, they will give the charm of tropical scenery to the house, and render it more attractive. Orchids. — Some of the earlier-started orchids will have ripened their growth, and may now be removed to a cooler and drier house, where they can slowly progress to a state of rest. As the plants approach a state of maturity, more light may be allowed them, which will help to ripen the pseudo bulbs. Continue to plants yet growing the requisite amount of heat and moisture to carry on the present year's growth, but avoid unnecessary stimulants at this season, which might induce a fresh growth, which to many species would be injurious to their blooming next season. Fires will be necessary during cold nights ; but lessen the shade, except in bright weather. Plants suspended on blocks and baskets must be daily examined to see the growing material is kept sufficiently moist, while, at the same time, stagnant damp must be avoided. As light decreases, shading must likewise be gradually lessened, and in a short time discontinued altogether, except to a section of orchids, which will require it for some time longer. It is highly important that the wood of plants — hard- wooded ones especially, intended to bloom in perfection next season — should be well ripened, and attention is especially directed to this, because the year's growth by this time will, in all likelihood, be completed, and the remainder of the autumn should be devoted to maturing the season's growth. Expo- sure to the full influence of light and air, which are the principal agents to effect this purpose, is essential ; and although water in sufficient quantities must be given to meet the plants' requirements, they should not have more, as aa extra supply of water might, in some instances, induce an autumnal growth. It will be better to soak each plant well when requiring water, and then allow it to become somewhat dry, than merely to damp the surface only daily, while the principal parts of the roots are suffering. Pelargoniums. — Plants which have gone out of flower should be exposed in the open air to ripen their wood preparatory to being cut down in September. Routine Work. — The routine work and management of the hothouse and green- house are very much the same, if not exactly, as for the preceding month of July, and therefore need not be repeated. August.— Hotbeds, Frames, &c., Work in. I. FLOWERS.— Annuals in Frames.— Frames without the hotbed are also very useful. Mignonette, nemophila, and other annuals sown now in pots, and kept in cold frames, will flower in the winter. Balsams and Cockscombs. — Plants that are now coming into bloom should be transferred to the conservatory or the win- dow of the sitting-room, and those not yet showing signs of flowering should be pushed on. Bedding Plants^ &c. — Hotbeds and frames may be utilised at this period of the year for various purposes in connection with the floral department of the garden. AUGUST. 0*5 AUGUST. It is a good time to strike the winter stock of bedding plants, for raising cinerarias, &c., for which purpose the bed described last month will be useful. Cuff ings that may be Struck. — Cuttings of pelargoniums, fuchsias, petunias, ver- benas, anagallis, ageratums, centaureas, coleuses, &c. , may be struck in frames now and potted off when rooted. Pelargotwtvis. — Plants that have finished flowering should be placed out of doors for a few weeks to ripen their wood. They should then be cut back to within an inch or two of the old wood, and placed in » cool frame in order to induce them to break. They must then be repotted, and the pit kept pretty close and moist until the plants begin to grow. Pelargoniums, Repotting. — The following is the process to be adopted in repotting. First shake away all the earth from among the roots, and remove the soil which still clings to them with a pointed stick. Cut all bruised, broken, and decaying roots away, and shorten those that remain by at least one-third, and repot each plant in a pot one size less than that in which it has been flowering. A suitable compost is com- posed of 1 6 parts of turfy loam, to 4 of peat, 4 of leaf mould, and I of sharp silver sand. Water the plant immediately after repotting, and then withhold water from the plant itself, until it begins to grow, although the pit must be kept moist. Shifting and Repotting. — Seedling plants of auriculas, calceolarias, Chinese prim- roses, cinerarias, pansies, polyanthuses, &c., may now be shifted into larger pots, using 12 parts of loam to 6 of good farmyard manure and I of sharp sand. 2. FRUITS AND VEGETABLES.— Carrots, Early Horn. — Seed sown now in the manner described in January — that is, without making a new hotbed for them, but renewing the soil on an old one — will b* useful in the winter. Heat is unneces- sary to raise them, but may be applied with advantage in the winter by means of fresh lining. Cauliflowers. — Seed is often sown in a frame, to save it from birds, &c. ; but it is necessary to uncover the young plants a* soon as the seed is up, to prevent a spind- ling growth. It is advisable to look for- ward to the winter, and sow everything in time to allow of making sufficient growth before winter. Cucumbers. — These, as the nights get colder, may have a slight covering, and the bottom heat, if declining, should be re- newed. Keep down mildew with sulphur;, the covering by night, and the increased bottom heat, will, however, help to keep this in check. These directions are appli- cable to plants in houses as well as in hot- | beds. Cucumbers that have been carefully | stopped, trained, and pegged down, will continue in bearing. If mildew appears, sprinkle the leaves, and dust with sulphur \. but if very bad it is better to start new plants. If started on new beds now, they will continue bearing until Christmas, and with care all the winter ; but they should be on good 4-foot beds, so that good linings may be applied ; for, as the season wanes, and the weather becomes colder, heat must be provided accordingly. Give fruiting plants the benefit of watering, either by gentle showers or by artificial sprinkling. Melons. — The late crop will be advancing, and as light is decreasing, keep the vines further apart, that the leaves, as they are formed, may not crowd each other. Attend carefully to bottom heat, which must not be allowed to decline. Red spider must be kept in check, by now and then washing the interior walls with lime and sulphur. Water cautiously, but do not allow the growing plants to get dry, which would check them and induce the attacks of spider. To grow melons in perfection, they should progress regularly ; hence the AUGUST. 686 AUGUST. necessity for steady bottom heat, and close watching as regards watering during the entire period of their growth. These re- marks are applicable also to plants in houses. With regard to melons in pits and frames, the same directions apply to them now as formerly. Where the fruit is swell- ing, keep up a brisk heat and plenty of moisture ; but where it is approaching ripe- •ness, let the beds gradually dry off; also, where fruit is setting, maintain a moder- ately dry atmosphere, as they do not set well if kept damp at the time. Salading, Parsley, &c. — Corn salad sown aow in a cold frame will be very useful in winter. It is merely necessary to place 16 inches of earth in the frame, and sowing on that, treading or otherwise matting the sur- face of the soil firmly. Some young plants of parsley planted on the same depth of soil, 6 inches apart, will be also useful in winter. August.— Kitchen Garden, Work in. Artichokes. — Cut these down as the heads are gathered, and fork the ground between : they will come up again before winter. Asparagus. — Keep the beds clear of weeds, especially young plants, which are soon overrun by them. Unless seed is wanted, it is advisable to cut off most of the bearing heads, which would, if left, exhaust and weaken the roots in ripening the seed. It is, however, as well to aow every year, and some of the seed may be left for the purpose. Beans. — Pull up the haulm of any that have done bearing ; lay the stalks together, and they will soon rot, or dry them, and they will burn. Some may be cut in lengths, and dried for earwig traps, to place among flowering plants. Beans, French. — A row or two should be left for seed. It is not advisable to leave any to ripen on bearing plants, as they cease to yield for the table while ripening seed. Beans, Runner. — These should be stopped after reaching the top of the sticks : they will set quicker than if left to grow as they please. Give plenty of water at the roots if necessary, but none overhead. Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, &c. — These should be got out as soon as possible. It is useless to plant them after this month. Broccoli that are about heading should re- ceive plenty of water and liquid manure two or three times a week, to insure their being fine. Cabbage. — Sow early this month for a full crop of summer cabbage. Sow thinly on an open spot, that they may come up strong, and scatter lime on the ground to protect from birds and insects ; also dust the young plants when up. Cardoons. — These 'will soon require earthing up. Carrots. — Early sowings may be taken up and stowed away for use ; but if the ground is not particularly wanted for other crops, it is quite as well to let them remain till required. A little Early Horn carrot seed may be sown early in August, to stand the winter ; they will be useful in the spring, when the winter store is exhausted. Caterpillars. — The gardener who would have everything thrive and prosper must exercise the greatest vigilance during August. Apart from the necessity of cropping and removing such as have ceased to become profitable, his attention is drawn towards the multitudes of garden pests, which exhibit their effects at this time of the year more than any other. Caterpillars should be looked for, and de- stroyed as quickly as they can be discovered — at least, before they fatten on the pro- duce of the garden, which they will do to the deterioration of the crops in a very short time if not prevented. The ravages of these insects produce an effect at once unsightly AUGUST. 687 AUGUST. and discreditable. Savoys and cabbages riddled by caterpillars are at once unplea- sant to the eye and suggestive of neglect. A free use of lime, which should be scattered over the plants on dewy mornings, will, in a great measure, save them ; the insect should, nevertheless, be hunted and de- stroyed on every possible occasion. Cauliflower. — Some seed should bv. sown two or three times this month ; if sown at the beginning, about the middle, and at the end of the month, it will give a succession. Sow in the same way as cabbage. It will be necessary to give cauliflowers the protection of frames or hand lights during the winter ; but the sowing may be in the open ground. CV/c. — Seed- ling polyanthuses, offsets of these and auriculas should be planted out in the reserve garden on rich shady beds. Shift auriculas and polyanthuses in pots that may require it. Carnations, &c. — Pot off layers of carna- tions as fast as rooted, water sparingly, and place in a cold frame for a few days until they make a fresh start. Choice varieties should be potted in pairs in 5-inch pots, in which they must remain under glass throughout the winter. For rooted layers, pipings, &c., generally a piece of ground should be prepared by deep digging and manuring, and in these the plants should be placed, from 9 to 15 inches apart, according to size, there to remain during the winter and to mature for planting out in spring. Cuttings. — If any should wish for a defi- nition of a " cutting,", it may be said that it is simply part of a branch with two or more joints, leaves, or buds ; it must have two joints to constitute a cutting. It -may grow if it has only one joint, but then it is called an eye. Generally, cuttings have from three to six joints or leaves : these are enough for a verbena ; four to six are good averages for scarlet or zonal gera- niums. Cut the base of the cuttings clean across with a knife ; remove the leaves at the base, or not, as you please ; insert it firmly in any light sandy soil, covering the surface with fine sand, the more effectually to exclude the air; place it in a position favourable to the reten- tion of its juice until roots are emitted, and then the peripd of its cuttinghood is over, and it has become a perfect plant. Cuttings, management of. — For cuttings of most flower-garden plants at this season no place is so good as a close, cold frame. In preparing pots or pans for cuttings at this period of the year, it shonld first be determined whether they are to remain in store pots for the winter, or be potted off as soon as rooted. If the former, a third of the pot should be filled with drainage ; if the latter, a much smaller proportion of drainage will suffice. Cuttings that are to stand in their store pots until next spring must also be inserted thinner than those that are to be potted when rooted. Ten verbenas, or other such cuttings, will be enough for a 48 -sized pot to maintain throughout the winter. Twenty might be inserted if they are to be potted off directly. Some cuttings, such as scarlet geraniums, have, however, a superabundance of sap when removed from the parent plant ; if placed in the same medium that would suit the tip end of a verbena shoot, instead of forming roots they would decay by wholesale. Various expedients have been recommended to check this tendency — laying the cuttings in the air after they are made, to dissipate their superfluous juices, &c., &c. No practice is, however, so good as removing the cuttings direct from the plants, with all their leaves on, and placing them full in the sun out of doors without any shade or protection whatever. They may either be planted in the natural ground, 6 inches apart, on a prepared border, or in pots or boxes ; and success will be alike certain, with less than one per cent. loss. Dahlias. — Dahlias will now require careful tying, disbudding, and thinning of the shoots, where first-rate flowers are required ; a good soaking of manure water in dry weather will also be most service- able to them. The blossoms of dahlias are often infested with and injured by ear- wigs, which must be trapped by inverted 45 SEPTEMBER. 690 SEPTEMBER. pots filled with hay or straw, into which they will creep, and from which they can be easily removed and destroyed. Caps of paper may be used to protect choice blooms of dahlias from the intensity of the sun's rays at mid-day. High Keeping. — Now that the beds are thoroughly covered, nothing contributes more to that high state of keeping that constitutes the chief charm of every garden than the removal of every dead flower and leaf as fast as it appears ; the maintenance of neat edgings and sharply defined lines of coloured or ribbon borders, or beds planted on the ring principle. Regularity of height is also another desideratum and proof of high keeping. High Keeping, Meaning of. — By regu- larity of height it is not to be understood that every bed, or every part of a bed, should be of one dead uniform height, but that they should either present a level or an even surface. Suppose, for instance, a bed is raised in the middle, as a rule it should gradually fall towards the sides, and the same parts of the bed should be of the same height. If the edging is 6 inches high, it should be this height all round ; if the second row is 9 inches, it should be 9 inches throughout, and so on. Nothing is more indicative of a want of judgment in planting or slovenly keeping than a row or bed 6 inches here, 12 there, and 10 at another point, without regular gradation, or any system whatever. Only of secondary importance to the blending of proper colours is the arrangement of plants according to their proper heights. Of course, the appearance of a weed, great or small, on either beds or ground, is an intolerable intrusion upon, and quite in- consistent with, high keeping. Closely mown, well-rolled turf is like the picture frame's influence upon the picture, and has & powerful influence in exhibiting Seauty in the best light. In harmony with all this the walks must be scrupu- lously clean, hard, smopth, and bright, to afford pleasant facility of access to, and be in character with, the beauty of the objects they are designed to exhibit. Hollyhocks. — The blooms of hollyhocks may be much prolonged by treating them like dahlias. Earwigs in hollyhock flowers must be taken and destroyed. Every offset of the best varieties which is found at the base and here and there along the stems ought to be inserted as cuttings. Previ- ously rooted cuttings of hollyhocks should be planted in the reserve garden. Pansies. — Plant out in beds early rooted pansy cuttings, insert a succession of cut- tings, and prick out seedlings in the reserve garden. Propagation. — Having provided, regu- lated, arranged, and enjoyed the highest amount of beauty that the garden is cap- able of yielding, the next point is how all this is to be perpetuated or reproduced another season. This brings us to another great business of the month — propagation. All trimmings of verbenas, ageratums, geraniums, calceolarias, &c., &c., that are cut off to maintain sharp lines, clearly defined edgings, &c., should be inserted as cuttings. Where enough cannot be thus secured, the thickest parts of lines or beds must be thinned for this purpose ; or, better still, plants that were placed in the reserve garden for this object must be cut down and divided into small morsels for cuttings. Roses. — Perpetuals may still be cut back, with the hope of a third bloom ; and late- budded plants will require looking after, watering, and training to stakes. Growing shoots that are heavy with buds should be tied in, and thus secured from injury by wind. Suckers should be removed. Roses t Budded. — With regard to the growth of shoots from buds that have been inserted in the stocks early in the season, SEPTEMBER. 691 SEPTEMBER. the ligature that binds the bud should be slackened, so that the growth of the shoot may not be hindered by its tightness ; and if the wild shoots from the stock itself happen to be growing very freely, they may be shortened back to, say ten leaves from the bud itself, supposing the bud to be still dormant. Late briers may yet be budded. A'oses, Ciittings of. — Cuttings taken and inserted in August will now be rooting, and may be freely exposed to the air, so as to harden them off gradually. Cuttings of perpetual and climbing roses may be inserted in September, but they must be placed in cold pits or under handlights, and receive protection under glass through- out the winter. Stocks. — Stocks sown in pans, or in the reserve garden, in August, will now be fit either to pot off and place in frames until established, or to prick out on shady beds in this department. September.— Fruit Garden and Orchard, Work in. Apples. — Apples require very little atten- tion now — only a slight thinning-out of cross shoots, bearing in mind that with the apple, as with all other fruit, the best grown is at the extremities of the branches ; therefore, encourage short -jointed wood ; and in shortening any of them prune back to a bud which, from its healthy appear- ance, indicated by its brownish green promises to extend the tree. Apples , Gathering of. — Early apples anc pears, now coming on, should be gathered a day or two before they are ripe ; and ii is not unusual to make two or three gather ings from the same tree, for, if gather ec too soon, they shrivel ; and if suffered t remain on the tree after maturity, much o the best fruit will fall and get bruised while being gathered. As they are gathered, laj the pears singly, and the apples in tiers, o not more than two deep ; and separate arefully all bruised fruit. Apricots, Nectarines, and Peaches. — The rees require to have the future bearing hoots nailed in closely, and all laterals not equired removed, so that the fruit may ave the full benefit of the sun, from which t derives the colour and flavour. Make a nal thinning of the fruit where necessary. A few of the leaves may also be removed, where they shade the fruit too much. As he fruit approaches its ripened state, nets hould be extended beneath it to catch any ailing fruit. To protect the fruit from wasps, use fine netting, which admits of jerfectly free circulation of air, and at the 5ame time keeps off wasps and flies. Should mildew appear at any time, dust the shoots with flour of sulphur ; an occasional wash- ng with soapsuds and syringing with pure water will also be useful, avoiding, of course, too near an approach to the fruit with either. Apricots, <5rV. , Pruning of. — The object of training and pruning is to produce fruit. If this is not specially attended to in the case of the peach and nectarine, the fruit will be small, as well as " few and far between." To suffer trees to throw out long luxurious branches, to be lopped off at the end of their growth, reason tells us must be bad management, while Mr. Rivers tells us that all the pruning required for wall or dwarf trees should be done with the finger and thumb alone — that is, he would pinch off every shoot not required in the future economy of the tree. By this means he would direct all the sap of the tree to the production of strong young wood and fruit. It is obvious, therefore, that if pruning has been neglected hitherto, no time should be lost in getting them in order now. Let all very luxuriant wood and fore-right branches, as well as all strag- gling branches, be cut out, leaving ample store of young shoots, however, for next SEPTEMBER. 692 SEPTEMBER. year's use, nailing all in close and regular to the wall at their natural length, so that all branches laid in in former months are firm in their places, and all gross shoots stopped. Budding, Inarching, &*c. — All kinds of fruit-trees may now be budded ; branches may also be added where required, by approach grafting or inarching ; trees of healthy growth, but bearing indifferent fruit, may now become the stocks for a fruit of superior quality by the processes «1 ready described. All lateral shoots of wall trees and espaliers should be cut pretty closely in, there being no danger now of their breaking. Cherries. — With the cherry little or no shortening back is necessary, pruning being confined to thinning away cross and interior shoots on standard trees, and spurring back those shoots which are too close together. Currants. — Prune away all side spray in currants, and treat generally as directed for gooseberries. Gooseberries. — Thin out all overloaded bushes, stop and thin out all shoots, and mat over where necessary, to retard ripen- ing. Look over the bushes for caterpillars, and destroy by every possible means. Many expedients are recommended for the de- struction of these pests. Hellebore powder, digitalis, and unslaked lime have be«n tried ; and a layer of tanner's bark laid on the ground in the autumn is said to have had the effect of keeping away insects. Insects, &c., Preservation of fruit from. — As the fruit begins to ripen, the attacks of wasps and snails become very annoying. For the benefit of the former, hang up some phials filled with sugared water or beer. This will attract the wasps from the fruit Snails must be looked for diligently after a shower of rain, and a train of pow- dered lime round the stem will keep them off in dry weather. Trees are also subject to attacks of the red spider during dry weather. As preventive as well as cure, wash them with water in which flour of sulphur is held in suspension. At the same time give them a good soaking with water at the roots ; thick mulching will also strengthen the trees to resist this insidious foe. Pears. — The pear requires more ener- getic treatment than the apple. The young spray requires thinning out towards the end of June, and all watery-looking shoots should then be removed, reserving all of the opposite character for selection in winter. At this time, also, stop all young shoots, except those at the extremi- ties of the branches, by pinching out the terminal bud, and tying down to the rails all such as do not interfere with the fruit spurs, cutting back such as do interfere to two or three eyes. Leave as many leaves as possible round the terminal bud. Plums. — The plum, in moderately rich soil, has a tendency to produce gross shoots between the stem and the extremity of the branches. These, if they have not been removed, now require the pruner's care ; where they are not wanted let them be cut away, reserving all short-jointed wood and leading shoots necessary to balance the tree. Raspberries. — Stop the canes of rasp- berries when sufficiently high. Strawberries. — Alpines are now in full bearing. This is also the season for saving seed, if seedlings are desired for planting. Selecting a few of the finest bearers, let them be fully ripenened, and the seed saved. Take the fruit and rub it on a piece of glass or slate, so that the pulp may dry up ; when the seed may be rubbed off and preserved till the season for sowing in the spring. Runners, the only means by which plants can be obtained true to the sort, should also be encouraged to SEPTEMBER. 693 SEPTEMBER. grow, but no more than are absolutely required for new beds, as the fruit is always largest and best where the runners are trimmed off. Work, Routine.— The chief work to be done in the fruit garden and orchard is harvesting and preparation for planting, either to replace decaying trees, or for new plantations. In either case let it be under- stood that, while something of the future success depends on soil, subsoil, and situa- tion, on which subjects we have already remarked, perfect drainage is indispensable. Soil and subsoil may both be corrected by properly prepared stations, if the drainage be sufficient ; without it success is im- possible. September. — Glasshouses for Fruit, &c. Figs. — These require plenty of water when in full growth ; in fact, in this state they may be treated almost like aquatic plants. The second crop of fruit will now be ripening, and those who wish for a third crop in November and December should have stopped the shoots in the middle of August ; but where a very early crop is required, the shoots must not be stopped after this period. Great care must be exercised in ripening the wood, and seeing that the embryo fruit buds are formed in the axils of the leaves. Water must be gradually withheld, and a dryish atmo- sphere maintained for this purpose. Peach House. — The lights may now be removed for six weeks from the early peach house ; or, if this is not practicable, as much air as possible should be given night and day. Pinery, Heat in. — Keep a genial atmo- sphere of from 70° to 83° among fruiting plants; water them with clear manure water, and refrain from syringing plants in flower and ripe fruit. Providences, and the black varieties for winter fruiting, would be best in a house by themselves from this time. Maintain a steady bottom heat of 85° to fruiting plants and 75° to succession plants. Where hot water is used this is easily managed ; but dung, tan, or leaves require greater caution. However, pines grow better, it is thought, when the bottom heat is derived from fer- menting material than from hot water. Pinery r, Succession Plants in. — All the succession plants should have already received their final shift for the winter ; those planted out in beds, either fruiting or succession plants, must be sparingly watered from this time, as, if the soil becomes too wet, it will dry slowly at this season of the year. Attend to the making of linings ; give as much air as is consistent with the maintenance of a proper tempera- ture ; gradually withdraw all shade from this period, and endeavour to secure a firm indurated growth before the approach of winter. Thrip on Fruit Trees. — Sometimes thrip attacks peaches, vines, &c., when the fruit is ripe. It is then very difficult to eradi- cate, as either smoking or syringing with any pungent fluid would mar the flavour of the fruit for weeks, if not for ever. The houses should be thoroughly examined be- fore the fruit is ripe, and if a single thrip is visible it must be at once destroyed. It is a good practice, if there is the least suspicion of their presence, to smoke two or three times in succession to make sure of their destruction. Trees, Care of.—" Fruit culture " seems almost a misnomer now, as, with the exception of very late crops, the great business at this season is to gather and enjoy the fruit, which has attained full maturity. Nevertheless, the idea of culture must never be lost sight of. This, either in its past, present, or future tense, must ever be present to the mind, if success is to be procured continuous and all but SEPTEMBER. 694 SEPTEMBER. certain, instead of accidental, fitful, and rare. The trees, although their special functions, as fruit producers, have been discharged, still require as much care as ever, particularly with reference to the leaves, which should be kept perfectly clean, that the trees may be preserved in health. Insects are often allowed to per- forate, and soot and dust to suffocate the breathing pores of the leaves ; and some will even cut off the leaves to allow the sun to shine on the fruit. The conscien- tious gardener, however, must not allow or do anything of this sort. Trees , Leaves of. — The leaves, it must be remembered, are the chief instruments in converting certain earthy and saline matters, and air and water, into the proper food of plants. Consequently, the greater tb« number, provided they are well ex- posed to the light, and the more clean and healthy the condition of the leaves, the more rich and luscious will be the fruit, and the more robust the health of the plant producing it. But the leaves perform a twofold function ; they do not only ripen one year's crop, but they lay the basis of fruitfulness for another season. No sooner do they mature the fruit for the current year, than they begin to store up organis- able matter for the next. The quantity of fruit for the next season depends upon the amount of this organisable matter stored up ; and the amount stored is determined by the number of clean healthy leaves that are fully exposed to the light. Hence, the longer the leaves can be maintained in perfect health, the better will be the crop for the ensuing season, and vice versd. Yet, notwithstanding all that has been said above about the importance of leaves, as soon as peach leaves will come off with the gentlest touch by drawing the hand up the shoot — not down — they may be partially removed. When their adherence to the branch becomes so slight, their elaborating functions are finished ; and as there may not be sufficient wind under glass to shake them off, they may be thus assisted by the hand in parting company with the branch or shoot on which they have grown. Vinery: Foliage of Vines. — Care must be taken in preserving the foliage of grape vines, not to allow too many leaves on the lateral shoots. It is the large leaves at the base of the fruiting branches, near to the main stem, that are of most consequence. The buds at their base will yield next year's crop, and the fuller, rounder, and more plump they become, the larger that crop will be. The great point is to main- tain these leaves in health without inducing new growth or causing the buds to break. A comparatively dry atmosphere and cool temperature are the chief things necessary for this. These are also the main deside- rata for preserving grapes as long as pos- sible. An excess of drought and sudden alternations of temperature are, however, almost as injurious as too much water. If the latter induces decay, the former causes the fruit to shrivel, and robs them of that luscious satisfying goodness which is the chief charm of first-rate grapes. Vinery: Mildew on Grapes in. — Ripe grapes must be frequently looked over, and every specked berry be at once removed. If mildew makes its appearance in the late houses, paint the pipes with a mixture of equal parts lime and sulphur, and sprinkle the infested parts with dry sulphur. Pre- vention, however, is much better than cure ; and experience has shown that a yearly painting of all the pipes in the house with this composition will prevent mildew. The fumes of the sulphur from hot pipes can do no harm ; they are not disagreeable, and there is reason to believe that they are a certain preventive of mildew. Flues, however, must not be painted over neai the fire, as the slightest ignition of sulphui SEPTEMBER. 695 SEPTEMBER. produces sulphurous acid, and would destroy every leaf. Vinery : Ventilation of. — Air should be admitted to all vineries by night as well as day. Except in wet weather, in houses the air is admitted by the roof-lights ; but where the ventilation is given by openings in the wall, a little air should be constantly admitted to the house, and fire used in rainy weather to maintain the requisite temperature. For all ripe grapes 60° is high enough ; but late Muscats, now ripen- ing, should enjoy a minimum of 70°, rising to 85° or 90° with sun heat. Grapes in- tended to keep till January, February, or March should be well thinned. September.— Greenhouse, Work in. Calceolarias. — Calceolarias require the same general treatment as cinerarias. Carnations ) Tree. — Tree carnations are very useful for the winter decoration of greenhouses and conservatories. They should be kept from flowering during the summer months, and may be treated out of doors, or in a very cool shady house, until well covered with blossom buds for winter. Under glass, in a warm situation, the plants are soon drawn up and the buds are spoiled. Chrysanthemums. — Shift chrysanthe- mums, liberally water top for late blooms, and stake. Cinerarias. — Pot off suckers from old shoots ; prick off, pot, and shift seed- ling plants, and push forward the first batch for flowering from November to February. Heaths. — Heaths must be carefully watched for the first speck of mildew, and immediately dusted with sulphur. As this malady often proves fatal among heaths, it should be carefully guarded against. It is generally induced by an excess of stag- nant water at the roots, or excessive syring- ing, heavy rains, or continuous fogs over the tops. Some of the woolly-leaved varieties seem to have a constitutional tendency to it, arising, it is thought, from their peculiar structure, causing them to retain so much moisture on the surface of the leaves. The later the plants are potted, the more they are predisposed to the attacks of mildew. Pelargoniums. — The grand secret of profuse bloom in pelargoniums is early, strong, autumnal growth. The moment pelargonfums begin to fade, they should be placed out of doors in the full sun to ripen their growth. When the wood becomes slightly browned, cut them down to within, two, three, or four eyes of the old wood. Leave them in the same posi- tion, or place them in a house or pit to break. When the young shoots have advanced from \\ to 2 inches, shake them entirely out of the pots, slightly pruning the roots ; pot them in any light soil in as small pots as the roots can be got into ; return them to a close house or pit, and the reduction, repotting, and restarting are finished. All plants intended to flower next May or June should now be ready for removal to their blooming pots. Harden off, cut down, and start afresh, plants for late summer and autumn blooming as soon as they are ripe enough. Painting House. — The house should at once be got ready for its winter occupants. Many of these, such as ericas, epacrises, azaleas, camellias, have probably been in the cold pit or sheltered situations out of doors for the last four months. In ordinary seasons they will be safe enough there until the end of September. Meantime, however, if the house requires painting or cleaning, the sooner it is done the better. Probably the fumes of paint do not injure plants, but they are very un- pleasant to plant owners ; and the paint stands much better if it has time to become quite hard before the house is used. Green- SEPTEMBER. 696 SEPTEMBER. houses that have no climbers on the roof should all be fumigated with burnt sulphur several days before any plants are brought into them. This is certain deatn to all animal life, if all contact with the outer air is cut off, and insures, if the plants are clean when brought from their summer quarters, perfect freedom from insects throughout the winter. Plants for Winter Flowering. — Provide plenty of linums, Salvia splendent^ oxalises, &c. , for winter or spring ; likewise hya- cinths, narcissuses, tulips, &c., &c. ; pot the first batch, as early rooting is the only certain foundation for good flowering. Pansies and Primroses. — Primroses, pansies, &c., must be shifted into larger pots, and maintained in health. Repotting and Shifting. — All camellias, azaleas, epacrises, heaths, &c., should be repotted either directly they have done flowering, or as soon as they have finished their growth. Some of the latest might still be shifted ; but this work should have been completed a month ago. Plants potted so late in the season require special care during the winter. All plants seem to have a firmer hold of health and life when the pots in which they grow are thoroughly filled with roots ; hence the desirability and safety of early, and the risk of late potting. Temperature. — For the plants that will form the chief tenants of the greenhouse during the autumn and early winter, a temperature ranging from 55° to 60° will be found to be in every way suitable. September.— Hotbeds, Frames, &c., Work in. i. FLOWERS. Anmials. — Some pots of mignonette and annuals for winter flower- ing may be placed in frames in slight heat, for ultimate removal to the conservatory or window. Balsams and Cockscombs. — Plants just coming into flower should be removed into the conservatory or the dwelling-house, where their blooms may be better seen and more highly appreciated. Biennials .and Perennials. — Violets, pinks, carnations, dianthuses, and similar flowers, for winter blooming, should now be potted up and placed in slight heat. Bulbs. — Cold frames will be put in requi- sition during this month, for passing the first batch of hyacinths, tulips, narcissuses, jonquils, crocuses, snowdrops, and other bulbs, through the preliminary stage of growth that follows immediately on potting, and which consists of the proper develop- ment of the roots. A number of 4, 5, and 6-inch pots having been obtained and well washed, first fill up each pot to about one- fourth of its depth with broken pieces of pots or potsherds. On these place about the same depth of well-rotted dung, and then fill up with light rich mould. Pot the bulbs firmly, and then place the pots in a frame under glass, standing them on a thick layer of coal ashes, or plunging them in earth or spent tan. Admit plenty of air, but exclude the light as much as possible. Cinerarias, Calceolarias, Chinese Prim- roses, &C. — Seedling plants of these flowers should now be shifted into larger pots in order to encourage and develop their growth. Cuttings. — Cuttings of various bedding plants may be put in under glass, and all rooted cuttings of geraniums, fuchsias, petunias, &c., should be potted, or, if originally struck in pots, should be shifted into larger pots. Pelargoniums. — Those potted in August and placed in frames may now have plenty of air and water, before being removed to the window or the conservatory. 2. VEGETABLES. Cucumbert. — The directions already given for preceding months must be acted on, according to SEPTEMBER. 697 SEPTEMBER. the stage of growth that the plant or fruit has attained. Cucumbers should be cut as soon as they are fit ; decaying leaves should be promptly removed, and the frames closed early in the afternoon, in order to maintain a suitable temperature within the house, and to promote quick growth. Melons. — The ripening of fruit not yet ready for the table should be accelerated by placing fresh lining round the hotbeds, &c. Leaves that shade the fruit should be removed, and a temperature of 70° at least maintained at night, the frames being closed between 2 and 3 in the afternoon, and the glass covered with mats as the sun declines. Melons approaching ripeness should be placed on tiles or pieces of thick glass, to keep them from the inroads of insects, and from contact with the earth below. Salading) &c. — Nothing need be added to the directions given in the Monthly Calendar for August for salading, vege- tables, &c., raised under glass for winter use. September. — Hothouse, Work in. Basket-Plants, and Climbers. — Stepha- notis, passion flowers, jasmines, &c., on the roof, must be carefully trained, cleaned, and regulated. Allamandas often make a splendid display when trained as semi- climbers on the roof of a stove. Achi- menes and other plants, suspended from the roof in elegant wire baskets, have a charming effect among climbers, and make the roof at least as showy as either shelf or bed. These plants, with gloxinias and gesneras, will also make a splendid display here during the month. A proper arrange- ment of flowering and variegated begonias, intermixed with marantas, musas, palms, ferns, caladiums, and a few other fine- foliaged and flowering plants, will give the house an air of oriental grandeur and magnificence such as our fathers could never have conceived. Caladiums. — Plants with succulent leaves, such as caladiums, must be gradually inured to as much sunlight as they will bear. This, while it will injure the appearance of some variegated and fine- foliaged plants, will improve others. Some of the caladiums, such as Caladium picttim, C. Newmani, and C. bicolor, assume the most vivid hues when fully exposed to the light. Others, such as C. argyrites, C. Belleymei) and C. violaceum, look most beautiful and delicate when considerably shaded. It is best for the strength and vigour of the roots of all caladiums to have their leaves fully exposed to the sun and gradually matured in the autumn. This process, must, however, go on gradually, and the greatest care must be exercised in getting a plant like Cyanophyllum magnifi- cum, for instance, in full vigour, to bear the full blaze of an autumnal sun with impunity. The smallest drop of condensed water on such a leaf, or on almost any begonia leaf, will, in half an hour, do ir- reparable damage. The heating rays of the sun convert each drop into a burning lens, which quickly parboils the delicate texture of their leaves. Caladiums are not so often injured in this way, as their com- position and structure seem specially adapted for throwing drops of water off their surface. Orchids House. — More light and air, and less water, must be the rule in the orchids house. However, those plants that are in full growth must not be stinted by any means, as the natural growing season of most orchids is the rainy season ; the season when it rains and rains every day and night, for perhaps six weeks without ceasing. Rapid growth, long seasons of perfect repose, and sudden excitement, seem to be the chief essentials to successful orchid culture. SEPTEMBER. 698 SEPTEMBER. Plants for Winter -flowering. — Cleroden- drons, poinsettias, justicias, euphorbias, bigonias, &c., must be grown on freely for winter flowering. Watering. — In all glazed structures water should be given in moderation, and only in sufficient quantities to maintain the plants in perfect health. However, the higher temperature maintained in the plant stove, and the difference in the nature of the plants occupying this structure, render a greater amount of moisture necessary than is required in the greenhouse and conservatory ; but an autumn — and neither a spring nor a summer — temperature must be maintained. September. — Kitchen Garden, Work in. Asparagus. — As this is a permanent occupant of the quarter in the usual mode of management — that is to say, when it is permitted to grow in the ordinary way and to come to maturity naturally at the or- dinary time, instead of being removed from the ground for forcing — new plantations may still be made in September on a rich soil, neither wet nor too stiff, but pulver- ising readily under the spade. Broccoli. — These also require a good soil, riehly manured. Plant them out from the beds in rows where they are to grow, 2 feet apart each way ; water as soon as planted, repeating it occasionally till the plants have rooted. It has been found of advantage to dibble large holes to receive the plants, and then fill them up with wood ashes or ashes of burnt vegetable matter. This crop may follow peas with advantage, or the plants may be placed between the rows of late sorts. Some s.eed may be sown to stand the winter, and come up for a late spring crop. Brussels Sprouts and Winter Greens. — These may now be planted out for autumn use. Cabbages, Savoys, &c. — Prepare a piece of ground by deep trenching and copious manuring, for spring cabbages, savoys, and winter greens, and keep it forked ovei regularly until the plants are sufficiently advanced for planting out. When ready, plant them in rows 2 feet apart, watering them well to settle the earth at their roots. Savoys and spring cabbages, in particular, require a rich soil thoroughly manured with well-rotted dung. Cardoons. — The early crop is now fit for use ; remove the earth carefully, and take up the plant by the roots, which must be cut off. The points of the leaves are also cut off to where they are solid and blanched. These are washed, the parts of the leaf- stalks remaining on the stem are tied to it, and they are ready for cooking. Carrots'. — Seed should be sown this month in an open situation, and on light soil. The sowing should be done as soon as the bed will work after digging. Cauliflowers. — These may still be sown in some situations, and those sown last month are now ready to prick out under handglasses or in frames, as they advance : if the season is mild, they may even be planted out under a south wall, provided the plants are not wet at the roots. Plants that are advancing and heading should have the large leaves broken and turned over them, to give shelter from sun and rain, and by having the earth drawn round the stem. The plants sown in May will now be ready for planting out in rows 2^ feet asunder, giving them a copious water- ing to promote their growth. Celery. — The earthing-up of this useful vegetable how demands special attention. The sowings made in July and August will now be ready for transplanting. Endive. — Seed sown now will come in to supply plants for autumn use ; the green curled being the best for main crops. Water the beds in dry weather, and tie up SEPTEMBER. 699 OCTOBER. to blanch plants advancing to maturity. Dig up a piece of good ground, manure well, and rake smooth. In this plant some strong endive plants a foot apart each way, and water as soon as planted, repeating it in dry weather. Lettuces. — Sow cos and cabbage lettuces in a bed of rich mellow ground ; in the first, second, and fourth week, pick out on nursery beds the plants last sown, and plant out the strongest plants in the open ground. Dig neatly and rake evenly, and put in the plants by line 12 inches apart each way ; continue to water till rooted. Onions.— Seed may be sown early this month to afford bulbs to transplant in the spring, for use in salads. The general crop will be ready for harvesting. Potatoes. — As the crops ripen, which may be known by the perishing condition of the haulm and the firmness of the skin of the tubers, which can no longer be rubbed off by the pressure of the thumb, the tubers should be taken up with care, so as to avoid bruising them, and stored away for use, either in cellars or in caves or pits covered in to protect the roots from the weather. The ground from which they have been removed may be planted with broccoli or cabbage, or sown with winter spinach, turnips, &c. Radishes, Turnip. — Black and white should now be sown for winter use ; and some small Italian radishes, white and red, may also be sown for autumn use. Salading, Small. — Sow cresses, mustard, radishes, and other small salads, every seven days, choosing a shady border, and sowing in very shallow drills, watering daily. Seakale. — Keep the surface well stirred and free from weeds. As the leaves decay and can be easily detached from the plants, remove them. It will be some time before they are all off; but as soon as this is the case, cover the crowns with ashes or bark from the tanyard till they are required foi forcing. Spinach for winter use, sown late in July or early in August, should now be planted out. The prickly-seeded, or triangular- leaved, is the hardiest for winter use. Turnips. — Seed may still be sown foi autumn and winter use, the Early Stone being a good sort. Sow immediately aftei digging, and sow thin. Hoe the cropi. sown in May and June in dry weather, and thin out till the plants are 7 or 8 inches apart. Work, Routine. — To secure a supply of vegetables in the winter and early spring, all arrangements not already completed should now be made without delay; the growth of those already planted encouraged by hoeing and stirring the earth round the roots ; and where slugs abound, their ravages counteracted by sowing soot or lime on the soil. September. — Orchard House, Work in. This cannot have too much air. Where no fire is used, sometimes late varieties of peaches, &c., are grown here, to come in after the fruit out of doors. Fruit on the north side of an orchard house, with a thorough draught through the house, will be a month or six weeks later than the same varieties on a south or west wall. Maintain all the trees in the most perfect health, and liberally water those in pots with manure water. OCTOBER. Aspect and Character of Month. October, the eighth month from March, the first month of the old Roman year, is the month in whose course we look for the ingathering of morella cherries, OCTOBER. 700 OCTOBER. services, medlars, and other fruits that ripen late. The mean temperature oi the month is nearly 7° lower than that of September, and frost is by no means uncommon towards the end of the month. The moisture in the atmosphere increases, and evaporation diminishes considerably ; the mean average temperature being, at one foot below the surface, 51*52° ; at two feet, 5278° ; and at the surface, 49-35°. October.— Conservatory, Work in. Chinese Primroses, &>c. — Chinese prim roses will require the next largest supply of water after chrysanthemums; then early- flowering epacrises, camellias, heaths, &c. Chrysanthemums. — Chrysanthemums will require a liberal supply of clear manure water every day in bright weather, and must never be allowed to droop from the want of it. If they do, their best and finest leaves will, be exacted as a penalty for the neglect. General Arrangement of Plants — This structure is always dependent for three- fourths of its charms upon the taste and skill displayed in its arrangement. Beauti- ful objects beautifully placed, lovely clim- bers neatly festooned or gracefully trained, and the preservation of all this beauty as long as possible, are the grand desiderata here. Heaths, epacrises, late pelargoniums, scarlet and other fuchsias, geraniums, arums, petunias, salvias, Chinese prim- roses, Japan lilies, and chrysanthemums, will now constitute the' chief display in the conservatory. Light, Shading^ &c. — In general terms, it may be stated that the more light that can be secured for the next four or, five months the better. Hence, all shading may now be dispensed with, and the foliage of the climbers gradually reduced, however beautiful they may be. They should be gone over two or three times until they are finally cut into the smallest compass by the middle of November. Every ray of light at that period is alike necessary for the health of the plants and the colour of the flowers. Plants, Cleansing, &>c. — When plants are brought within doors for the winter they should be thoroughly cleansed, the pots washed, and the soil top dressed if they require it, as they are introduced into the houses. Temperature. — As a cool atmosphere is one of the chief means to this end in summer, the mistake is sometimes made of maintaining this structure at too low a temperature. It should never, unless in the severest weather, be lower than 45°. Comparatively few blossoms will expand in perfection, or continue so long, at a lower temperature than this. From 45° as a night temperature to 55° as a day, is a safe range for the next four months with fire heat, 50° being a safe day medium and 55° the maximum by artificial means. If the sun is genial enough to raise the tem- perature to 60° a few hours in winter, and air is admitted, it will do no harm. Ventilation, &c. — In managing the louse, two things must be equally guarded against — a moist, stagnant atmosphere and a sharp current of frosty air. Although directly contrary in their nature, both are almost alike destructive to flowers ; the one rapidly destroys, and the other speedily lasts, their beauty. The proper balancing of air at rest and air in motion, and the ight proportion of moisture to be sus- pended in it, constitutes the true secret of lUCcessful conservatory management. Watering^ Syringing, &C. — Little or no syringing or sprinkling of paths will now be necessary, except a few sprinklings ver chrysanthemum and camellia leaves or the first week or fortnight after their ntroduction from out of doors. Generally, at this season, a sufficiency of vapour will OCTOBER. 701 OCTOBER. rise from the surface of pots and borders, without having recourse to either sprinkling leaves or paths. Care must be taken not to wet the latter in performing the neces- sary watering. Winter Blooming Plants, Ventilation for. — When October comes, every plant to be housed, from the camellia to the humblest denizen of next year's flower garden, should be placed in safe qttarters at once — safe, remember, but not -warm, quarters, because the latter would be most unsafe. Plants that have stood for months in the free air of heaven are most impatient of confinement. Unless the wind is very cutting, or the thermometer is under 40°, the houses should stand open night and day for several weeks after the plants are admitted ; otherwise the sudden change of temperature would either cause flower buds to drop or excite to premature wood growth, the probability being that it would do both. Winter- Blooming Plants ', Protectionfrom rain for. — The first, and in many places the chief, duly of the month, is to see that all tender and all hardy plants intended to be bloomed in winter are placed under the requisite shelter. Nothing injures the former, or prevents the perfect inflores- cence of the latter, more than being exposed to the chilling, drenching rains that often fall at this period of the year. A day or two of such untoward influences will do more harm than months of exposure to genial balmy air and invigorating dews have done good. Winter - Blooming Plants Spoiled by Over-exposure. — When the plants have all been housed, it is well that their con- dition should be carefully looked into. If the pots seem heavy the surface soil some- what greasy, with an occasional elevation here and there, and some of the leaves present a bluish, slightly shrivelled, highly polished appearance, their state is far from being a desirable one. All healthy root action has been paralysed by the combined influence of water and worms, by whose disintegrating and disorganising forces both the quality and texture of the soil have been changed. Keen winds and heavy, dashing, cold rains, or hail, are almost equally injurious. Their influence is less seen and more irremediable at the time j but it is equally potent afterwards. Those blotches, patches, and bruises, so common on leaves and tender branches of plants in winter, mostly originate from keeping them out too late in the autumn. Nothing can possibly be gained — much, yes, everything, may be lost — by the practice. Every prudential, sanitary, and economical con- sideration urges the propriety of early housing. October. — Flower Garden, Work in. Auriculas, Polyanthuses, &c. — Place auriculas, polyanthuses, pinks, carnations, &c., if not already done, in their winter quarters. Give all the air possible, to induce a quick growth. Dahlias, Hollyhocks, &c. — Gather holly- hock and dahlia seeds if ripe. Pot choice varieties of hollyhocks, and winter under glass. Pansies. — Pot up pansies for stores and flowering in pots. Plant out seedlings and put in cuttings. Propagation. — The great business of propagating for next year should now be consummated. Nevertheless, such things as verbenas, calceolarias, &c., may still be put in with the certainty of success. Some- times these plants flower so freely that it is almost impossible to get suitable wood for cutting until the end of September or beginning of this month. It is almost useless to try to strike pieces of the hard flowering wood ; the small young shoots, heeled off from the flowering branches, OCTOBER. 702 OCTOBER. constitute the proper cuttings. It is better to wait until now for these than to attempt striking the others in August or September. Propagation, Plants for. — The inex- perienced gardener, and especially the amateur, may be led sometimes to inquire what plants are to be propagated at this season besides geraniums, verbenas, and calceolarias. Petunias must on no account be forgotten, and in addition to all these, a greater or fewer number of the following species, according to requirement, should be added to the general stock :— Agathea caelestis, Koeniga, also known sometimes called Blue Marguerite. as A lyssum gatutn and varie- Glyce Ageratums. Anagallis. variegata, Lantanas. Antirrhinums. Lobelias. Bouvardias. CEnothera tnacr ocarpa, I Centaureas. &c. Cerastiums. Pentstemons. Cineraria maritima, Phloxes. or Ragwort. Salvias. Fuchsias. Senecios. Gazanias. Stackys la ii, it a. Heliotropes. Tropseolums. Vincas, or Periwinkles. This list will furnish a pretty safe and correct answer to any inquiry as to the plants that may be propagated. All are beautiful, and if some be thought more desirable than others, there is ample room for choice and selection. Reserve Garden. — Keep annuals and other plants in beds quite clear. Plant off primroses, polyanthuses, violets, iberis, and arabis. Wallflowers may now be removed to flower beds and borders, if these have been cleared of their summer occupants. Increase by division of the roots such herbaceous plants as rockets, lychnis, &c. , and plant them in beds in this department. Plant beds of narcissuses, hyacinths, cro- cuses, &c., either for permanent flowering here, or for removal to the flower garden afterwards. Routine Work. — Maintain scrupulous -clear liness, and continue the beauty here •uj long as possible. Prepare pots and space for potting or boxing the chief stock of geraniums, calceolarias, jasmines, &c. If frost should come, get everything you intend to save under cover directly, and proceed to store them away at your leisure. Tulips. — Prepare beds of good, light, fibrous, sandy loam for tulips, and have all in readiness for planting the main stock early next month. Similar preparations may be made for beds of other bulbs that are to flower en masse. I October. — Fruit Garden and Orchard, Work in. Apples and Pears. — The fruit is now ripening fast. Gather on fine days, taking care that the pears especially are tenderly handled. When laid in the fruit room for a week, it should be carefully looked over ; more fruit decays in the first week than for many weeks afterwards, and if not removed, it soon affects others. Nectarines and Peache s. — The trees should have all superfluous shoots removed, and the young wood left exposed to as much sun as possible, to ripen the shoots, on which the hopes of the following year depend. As soon as the leaves part readily from the branches, sweep them off, but not j violently, with a new birch broom. The trees will be benefited by passing a light broom over the foliage in the direction of its growth. It will detach the ripened leaves, and admit air to the heart of the tree and branches. Root pruning, if thought requisite, perform towards the end of the month. Fruit-Trees, Planting. — Planting fruit- trees should now be proceeded with if the necessary preparations are made. These preparations consist in draining and pre- paring stations where planting in the open ground is intended, and preparation of the border where wall trees or espaliers are to be planted. The most important part in i planting, next to soil and subsoil, is to OCTOBER. 703 OCTOBER. keep the collar of the stem at the surface of the soil, removing all diseased or bruised fibres, spreading the roots out carefully, and putting fine soil over them, keeping the young tree firmly in its place by stakes, without lifting or treading upon the roots. The autumn rains will settle the earth about the roots better than any other means. Fruit - Trees, Rdot Pruning. — Root pruning should now be performed, either by lifting the trees altogether and replant- ing, or by digging a trench round them, and removing or shortening old roots of over-luxuriant or perpendicular growth. The sign of root pruning being required is found in over-luxuriant foliage, with an absence of fruit ; but it requires to be done with caution. Dig a trench round the tree, I, 2, or 3 feet from the stem, according to its size, so as to lay open all the roots. All old roots which have ceased to throw out rootlets or spongioles should be pruned away close to the stem, the young roots trimmed, and all having a tendency to tap- root, or descend too deep, should be cut away. This done, fill. up the trench with suitable fresh soil or compost. Where extensive root pruning is necessary, it should be done partially in two or three years, removing a portion of the objection- able roots on each occasion. Plums. — In wet seasons gather the late sorts, with their stalks attached ; suspend them in the fruit room, or, wrapped in thin paper, they will keep for several weeks. Quinces, medlars, and all sorts of nuts, are also now fit to gather. Raspberries. — Canes of the autumn- bearing kinds should now be bearing a good supply of fruit. If the weather be fine, canes which have fruited should be cut out, and the young ones left three or four to a stool ; then manure, and dig between them, leaving the young shoots their full length until the spring. New plantations may now be made ; the im- proved mode being to plant single canes about 1 8 inches apart, and attach them to espaliers, consisting of stakes set in the ground at intervals of 6 or 8 feet, with laths I inch broad and \ inch thick, nailed or screwed to the stakes, in a horizontal position, one about 12 inches from the ground, another at the top, and a third midway between the two. This will be found a sufficient support for the canes, which must be tied with bast or raffia to the laths. Strawberries. — Remove all runners from the plants, and manure and dig between, the rows, using the three-lined fork so as to avoid injuring the roots. Runners may be bedded out for new plantations, the formation of which should now stand overr however, till the spring. October. — Glasshouses for Fruit, &c., Work in. Figs. — These may possibly be ripening their third crop; if so, a brisk tempera- ture of 65° or 73° must be kept up. If the second crop is gathered, and a third is not wanted, reduce the supply of water and the temperature to a minimum, to- induce rest or hasten maturity. Fruit-Trees, Starting, in Autumn. — ID our climate fruit must be cultivated under glass, if at all, at this season of the year ;. and those who wish for peaches or grapes on their table in May must begin this month. Early work calls for early rest ;. and where this call is refused, the work will either be badly performed, or the machine will speedily be worn out. Hence, if trees are required to move to any good' purpose early in the autumn, they must rest early in the summer. However, if trees have had a good long rest, and if they have first of all finished their summer work well by thoroughly ripening their wood1 before they went to rest, it is astonishing: OCTOBER. 704 OCTOBER. what an influence a warm bath has in arousing them to vigorous exertion. Only it must not be too warm : water, at a temperature of 50°, applied at first with a syringe all over, in the form of a shower bath, will suffice. A temperature of 45° or 50° being maintained at the same time, and the bath being repeated twice a day, the buds of the trees will soon show signs of expanding out of their case. Fruit-Trees, when Started, Danger of Checks to Groivth to. — No sooner do they become thoroughly awakened, than they must be provided with work ; and one of the greatest mistakes in forcing is to allow them to go to sleep after they have begun to break. Sudden depressions of tempera- ture always have this tendency : they check growth, or, in other words, send them to sleep again ; and this sleep in working hours is always fraught with danger, and often produces death : to say nothing of the injurious effects of the stimulants necessary to induce new growth, the mere fact of its forcible cessation, from cold or heat, is pregnant with disease and disaster to plant life. Peach House. — Treatment of House and Borders. — Supposing that the fruit was gathered in May or June, the lights re- moved in July, and the trees pruned in August or September, they may now be thoroughly painted over with a composi- tion consisting of equal parts sulphur, clay, cow dung and soot. The borders should also be forked up, 6 inches or I foot of the old soil removed, if that is practicable, for roots, and the same quantity of turfy maiden loam substituted in its place. Every bit of trellis and woodwork should also be thoroughly washed with soap and water, unless the house has just been painted, the walls whitewashed, coloured, Dr painted, and the hot-water pipes painted Dver with a mixture of equal parts lime and sulphur. Perhaps it would be as well to omit the painting from the first 12 feet from the boiler or the flow pipe. Peach House. — Treatment of Trees. — If the roots are at all dry, water with manure water at a temperature of 60°, which will not only moisten, but gently excite the roots, by considerably raising the temperature of the soil. Having thus laid the foundation of success in cleanli- ness and suitable food, place the lights on, and, if the weather is mild, leave them half down night and day for the first week. If the roof is a fixture, give all the air possible at front and back, and leave the door open. Sprinkle the trees overhead several times a day ; sprinkle paths, &c., and maintain an atmosphere ike a cool April morning. Proceed thus during the entire month, varying, of course, your treatment, the quantity of air, &c., by the nature of the external atmosphere. A temperature of 50°, however, should never be exceeded by fire heat, if fire becomes necessary, which is not often the case during this month. Pinery. — It is a good plan to cover the pots of succession and other pines (say 2 inches thick) with partially decayed tan or leaves for the winter. This obviates the necessity of watering through the winter months, and maintains the roots in that medium state of dryness so favourable to the health of the plants during that period. Those planted out in beds might be mulched over in a similar way. Pinery, Temperature of. — After this period maintain a temperature of from 60° to 70° to all pines, the maximum being applied to the fruiting plants. The bottom heat may range from five to ten degrees in excess of the atmospheiic temperature. Give a little air when the external air is sufficiently genial ; guard against sudden changes, and maintain a growing atmosphere to fruit swelling off. Pines, Maturation of. — Cut pines in OCTOBER. 705 OCTOBER. winter a week before they are ripe, and tedious loss of time, The varieties best place them in a hot, dry place (near the kitchen fire will do), in a temperature of from 80° to 90°. This will prevent all risk of the fruit decaying, and vastly im- j proves the flavour. Pines, Watering in Winter. — The less water that can be given to pines in any stage during winter, consistent with their health, the better ; their peculiar structure renders them especially liable to injury from the accumulation of moisture in the axils of the leaves. Whenever it is necessary to water for the next four months, the water must be applied to the soil only. It is often necessary to use a bent tube, with a funnel at one end, to prevent it falling upon the leaves. If the atmosphere of the house, from the continuance of bright sunshine, or any other cause, becomes too dry, it will be better to secure the necessary humidity by evapora- tion from the surface of the floor and heating apparatus, rather than by syringing overhead. % Vinery. — Vines , Cleansing. — All pre- liminary matters may proceed here exactly on the same principle as for the peach house. In all forcing, either of flowers or fruit, let cleanliness, both present and prospective, be the first care. Hence, before the painting, Ac., let every bit of loose bark that will rub off with your ha-nd be removed. Severe barking — that is to say, scraping the bark off with knives, &c. — is to be deprecated ; as, although vines a/e endogenous plants — that is, increase from the inside, and not from the out, and iheir bark is consequently not essential to their healthy existence— still it is useful in retaining moisture on their stems. Never- theless, tidiness of appearance and the destruction of insects require the removal of that which is loose and easily taken away ; to go beyond this, if not certainly injurious, is obviously unnecessary and a for early forcing are the Royal Muscadine, Duke of Buccleuch, and Black Hambro, Give them the same general treatment a* that recommended for peaches during the month. Vines, Pruning. — Prune other vineries as *oon as the fruit is cut, if the leaves are thoroughly matured, the wood almost as hard as stone, and they are required to start afresh in January. If neither of these conditions, nor all of them, are present, defer the pruning for another month. Carefully look over grapes twice a week, removing every dead berry or leaf that may have fallen on a bunch. Vines. — Ripening Late Grapes. — If late grapes, such as Muscats and West's St. Peter's, are not ripe, they must be ripened off with a brisk fipe as speedily as possible. If not ripened forthwith, they will not only be deficient in flavour, but will not keep well. October. — Greenhouse Work in. Cleansing Plants. — Plants brought into or growing in the greenhouse require general treatment similar to that which is described for the hothouse and con- servatory, but this and any house ex- clusively devoted to heaths should be kept five or ten degrees cooler than the conservatory. They will also bear sharper currents of air with impunity. Leschenaul- tias, chorozemas, &c., in the greenhouse must be carefully examined for green fly This pest is very prevalent among, and very fatal to, the first - named plants Sometimes it also suddenly attacks heaths, pimeleas, &c. As soon as one is dis- covered, fumigate instantly with tobacco paper. This is also a good time to eradicate scale — white, black, or brown — from acacias, clianthus, and any other infected plants. For scale, hand picking 46 OCTOBER. 706 OCTOBER. is the only effective remedy. Gishurst's Compound, Neal's Soap, &c. , may destroy thrip, as well as, perhaps a little better than, a strong decoction of clear soot water i in soapsuds. But as for scale and mealy Dug, the experience of many tends to show that it is not possible to kill them by dip- ping or washing in any nostrum whatever. vVhere plants have become infested very much with either of these pests, the most satisfactory way, unless they are very valuable, is to destroy them. But they ought never to be allowed to become very tad. It is in thus attacking insects in time, as soon as one is seen, that the true secret of cleanliness and health lies. Better examine a whole collection and not find one, than allow one to become a million through a month's oversight. Cleansing Plants, Benefit of. — If prac- , ticable, no plant should be taken into the house without being carefully examined and thoroughly cleaned. The necessary washings involved in this operation, while essential to cleanliness, have, moreover, a powerful indirect influence in preserving the plants in health. So great is this secondary benefit, that some cultivators have maintained that no collection of stove plants or greenhouse plants can be preserved in luxuriant health without the existence of these aids to successful culture. DoubUess the ablution that their extermination in- volves enables plants to perform their respiratory functions and work of elabora- ting the sap with more ease and greater energy. Pelargoniums. — Maintain a temperature of 45° by fire heat, allowing a rise of 10° by the influence of the sun. No syringing or sprinkling must be permitted here, and care must be exercised in watering, to keep the leaves dry. Give air with great caution, avoiding biting winds and cold draughts. This is specially necessary with fancy pelargoniums, which are more tender than either the French or show kinds, as they are termed. Great injury may be done even by keeping the door open a few minutes when the wind is blowing into the house, and the plants should never be moved out to the potting shed for shifting after this period. Sudden changes are a fruitful source of that most provoking and troublesome of all diseases to which these plants are subject — spot (see Spot). This disease is practically incurable ; if it un- fortunately appears, either separate the plant from all the others, or destroy it at once. Green fly is often troublesome, but it is easily got rid of by fumigation, and with good culture no other insect ever attacks pelargoniums. October. — Hotbeds, Frames, &c., Work in. i . FLOWERS. — Cuttings in Frames. — All cuttings, such as those of ageratums, pe- tunias, verbenas, &c. , must be kept cool and dry. Calceolarias and cinerarias already rooted must be .placed near the glass, but protected from frost by mats, &c. Cuttings of hollyhocks may still be put in, as they will root slowly during the winter, and make nice plants in spring. The great point with all flowers in frames is to keep them from injury by frost, by covering them up when frost threatens. This applies to roses, strawberry plants in pots, and all the plants that have been mentioned. Protection, and not stimu- lation, except for pelargoniums and plants that require to be started into growth, is all that is required. flowers in Cold Pits and Frames. — Give all the air possible to plants housed in these structures, unless it actually freezes ; guard against damp and overcrowding ; carefully examine mignonette, stocks, &c., and remove every bit of mould the moment it appears. Provide mats or reed covers in readiness against frost, and keep the glass clean. On mild days remove the OCTOBER. 707 OCTOHIiR. glass, in order to render the plants as hardy as possible, a condition which is highly conducive to a safe passage through the trials of winter. Pelargoniums. — Plants that have been removed from beds and borders, and potted, should be plunged in mild bottom heat on a gentle hotbed to start them into growth. The plants themselves must have plenty of air on mild days and be kept cool. Plants in Frames, Management of. — All such plants as auriculas, polyanthuses, pansies, carnations, pinks, picotees, violets, lilies of the valley, mignonette, hyacinths, and all flowers intended to bloom in pots, are put under glass, rather to preserve them from injury by wind, rain, and frost, than to stimulate them into activity and srowth. They must have air whenever it is possible to give it to them. 2. FRUITS AND VEGETABLES. — Cu- cumbers^ &c. — The instructions that have already been given for growing cucumbers and melons in succession in preceding months, apply equally here, and need not be repeated. As already said, hotbeds may be made, seed sown, and plants raised and carried on to fruiting at any period of the year, but more care is requisite to maintain the heat in winter than in summer. Melons. — With reference to these it may- be said that a second or third crop may occasionally be well ripened during this month. If in pits, renew linings, &c., to maintain a brisk heat ; if in houses, keep the fires moving to secure a bottom heat of 80°, and a surface one of 70°. Beware of watering to excess, as less can be thrown off by the leaves now than earlier in the season ; consequently more must be absorbed by the fruit, which is apt to burst, and often be- comes insipid in consequence. With care ^pon this point, melons may often be rpened as successfully in October as in A u^ust. October.— Hothouse and Forc- ing Pit, Work in. Forcing Pit, Work in, 6°r. — Introduce into the pit the first batch of rhododendrons, kalmias, Ghent and Indian azaleas, &c. ; also some tea and hybrid perpetual roses, and early-flowering and sweet-scented ger- aniums, white and Anne Boleyn pinks, tree carnations, and lily of the valley ; also Salvia Gesneraflora> late gesneras, and Euphorbia splendent. Btilbs, c. — Vincas, clerodendrons, &c., that have finished flowering should now be cut back, and after they have slightly broke, be shaken out of the pots, and inserted in as small pots as possible, for they seldom winter well in large pots. October.— Kitchen Garden, Work in. Asparagus. — Towards the end of the month the asparagus beds may be cleared of their haulm, but not till it is yellow and the seed ripe, and a portion of the soil forked into the alleys ; then mix some good manure with a little salt, and lay a good coating of it over the plants, covering the whole with the soil thrown into the alleys. Beans and Peas. — The peas and beans are now past ; let the ground be clearedj and, where vacant, dug or trenched, or ridged up, so that it may have the advan- tage of fallowing from the sun and air, and salts from the snows of winter. A crop of early peas may be sown, either on a warm south border or under a fence. If the border is 8 or 10 feet broad, let the drills run across, 3 or 4 feet asunder, and so arranged as not to come in front of the stems of the trees on the wall, and ij inches deep. Small crops of Mazagan beans may also be planted with a chance of their standing the winter, and coming in in May or June. Broccoli. — All the late-planted broccoli should be hoed in common with cabbages of all kinds, so as to loosen the soil and destroy weeds. Cabbages. — All the cabbage tribes require the greatest attention this month in hoeing, weeding, and warring with caterpillars, which now begin to infest them. Trans- plant cabbages at the end of the month, choosing the strongest plants. Coleworts should now be planted out for spring use. Cardoons. — These should now receive a general earthing up, choosing dry open weather for the operation, first gathering up the leaves and tying them together with a hayband. Carrots and Parsnips. — These roots are also at their best now, and may be taken up and stored in the manner directed for potatoes. A little carrot seed may be sown on a warm border, with a chance of young carrots in spring. Catilijlowers. — Plants from seed sown in August will require pricking out, not less than 4 or 5 inches apart, where seme kind of protection can be given them, either under a frame or handglass ; those formerly pricked out and hardened off require plant- ing out under handglasses to stand the winter, keeping the glasses close till rooted, and then support them on props 2 or three inches thick for air. Celery. — Earth up as often as it become! necessary, not only for blanching, but ta preserve the plants from injury by frost. OCTOBER. 709 OCTOBER. Endive, Lettuces, &c. — Some lettuces for a spring supply may be pricked out under a frame, though the hardier kinds will fre- quently stand the winter on a warm border. Lettuce and endive formerly planted out now require tying up. Small supplies of small salading sow weekly in small boxes. Potatoes. — The tubers are now at maturity. Dig them up and store for the winter, so as to protect them from the frost. The three- pronged potato-fork, with broad tines, rounded and blunt at the points, is a well- known implement. It is usual, where the haulm is strong, to cut off the tops, and by inserting the fork under the whole plant, turn the whole up in a mass, the potatoes being collected after the digger in baskets ; they may either be stored in a suitable room, or stored away in pits in the open ground, properly drained and covered, first with a layer of earth, then with a thatching of clean straw, and then with soil sufficiently thick to protect them from the severest frosts. Radishes. — Sow also a small patch of radishes in the beginning, and again to- wards the end of the month. If the weather proves mild, they will advance, and be ready for drawing in November and December. Seakale. — This will be ready to force towards the end of the month, either by removal to a forcing bed, or by covering the plants with pots, and these with stable manure on the beds. Spinach, Winter. — Keep winter spinach free from weeds, and thin off where requi- site, leaving the strongest plants. October. — Orchard House, Work in. Rest for Trees. — Unless this structure be used to ripen fruit that has been retarded behind a north wall, it should now stand open night and day, or the trees be removed outside, and the house be devoted for three months to storing bedding plants, &c. If the trees are planted out in the borders, then the lights may be stored away for three months, or used for other buildings. In all cases secure a season of perfect repose for the trees. Strawberries. — These will or ought to have completed their growth for the season ; the sooner they go to rest the better. The floors of orchard houses are the best possible wintering places ; as cool as possible, without being frozen, is all the winter treatment they require. Properly placed, it is seldom indeed that they require any water until they are wanted to grow. Strawberry Plants, Stacking. — Lacking the floor or stage of any cool house or cold pit, the next best mode of keeping them is to stack them, not exactly as reaped corn is stacked, with all the heads inwards, but just the reverse — heads out. See also Strawberry Plants, How to Stack. October.— Shrubbery, Work in. Transplanting. — Now is the time to look at the shrubbery and pleasure ground and note what changes are to be effected there, if any are required. It may be that beeches, &c., 20 feet or 30 feet high, are to be moved, to break the prevailing east wind, on the other side of the lawn. Lose no time, then, in preparing the holes, and getting all preliminaries arranged for a heavy job of transplanting. The sooner all deciduous trees are moved, the greater is the chance of success. If the weather continues mild, they will form fresh roots before the winter ; and by the time that the spring excites to renewed growth, the roots will be sufficiently restored to perform their important functions without let or hindrance. Large evergreens may also be safely removed this month. Turf Laying, &c. — Turf laying, and ground work generally, will also be pro NOVEMBER. 710 NOVEMBER. ceeded with. Where much has to be done, a great deal will be gained by begin- ning early in the month so that November the first month of the gardener's year, may be devoted out of doors to preparation for the year that is now at hand. NOVEMBER. Aspect and Character of Month. November, to quote the description given by Peachum, "is drawn with a garment of changeable green, and has black upon his head," to typify the dark and dreary clouds which hang over the gloomy November landscape. The atmo- sphere during this month is saturated with moisture, dense mists and fogs abound, and gloomy, boisterous weather, as a rule, prevails. The mean temperature is about 42° Fahr., but the thermometer ranges between 23° and 62°. The mean tempera- ture of the earth at a depth of two feet is 47.28°; at a depth of one foot, 46.01°; that of the air at the earth's surface being 42.98°. November.— Conservatory, Work in. Flowers in bloom. — At this season the conservatory should be well furnished with chrysanthemums, scarlet salvias, geraniums, Chinese primroses, &c., and fragrant with the leaves of a giant mignonette; a few ferns and begonias affording a pleasing contrast to the richness of colour exhibited by the flowers. The charm cf the house, however, chiefly lies in the arrangement of the plants, which must be disposed so that the colour of one will be brought out and heightened by the colour of its neighbour. Glazed Structures, General Management vf. — The remarks on glazed structures, ventilation, and watering, are applicable to the hothouse and greenhouse as well as to the conservatory. During the continu- ance of characteristic November weather, every glasshouse should be looked upon and managed as a huge Wardian case, whose first and primary use, under such circumstances, is to keep November out- side, while we, the proprietors, are enabled to enjoy spring, summer, or autumn, at our pleasure, inside. It is the height of stupidity and folly to allow a November fog to inundate a conservatory under the pretence of giving air. Such air is as little wanted by the plants as by those who come there to enjoy them, and is equally inimical to the health and well-being of all concerned. Glazed Structures, Ventilation of. — This is emphatically the dead season. Plants under glass, though in the best possible health, would rather sleep just now than grow ; and if a dry atmosphere and rather a low temperature is maintained, houses may be kept shut up close for a fortnight or three weeks together, not only with perfect impunity, but with positive benefit to the plants ; but this supposes that the external atmosphere is ungenial. This, however is not always the case. Embrace every opportunity of admitting the external air to conservatories and greenhouses when it is of a temperature of 45° ; also change the air of stoves, &c., during the few hours of sunshine that often come to chase away even a November fog. In fine, the more fresh air the better, provided it be warm and genial ; the less the better when it is otherwise. Plants will live and thrive, it is true, for weeks in the same atmosphere, when adverse circumstances render a change dangerous, and they will bear this treatment better now than during any other season of the year ; and yet, as a general rule, the more fresh air the better. Water, Hoiv and When to. — In watering thirsty roots, see that the flowers arid succulent leaves are kept dry. This is * NOVEMBER. NOVEMBER. point of considerable importance at almost any season ; at this, it is a question of life or death to many plants. Chinese prim- roses, for instance, double or single, will speedily fog off and perish if the needful water is poured into the centre, or per- mitted to trickle down wet leaves to the same vulnerable point — no less the centre of beauty than the seat of danger. Other plants surfer in the same manner, although few, perhaps, to the same extent. The water given to plants should always be 5° or 10° higher than the house in which they grow. Never water a plant until it is dry, and then water thoroughly. The quantity given must be regulated by the state of growth and drinking capabilities of each plant. For example, a chrysanthemum coming into flower will require three times the quantity as a camellia in the same state. Water, Quantity of. — As the quantity of external air admitted may now be safely reduced to its minimum, so may also be the quantity of water. The fact is, the power of a plant to use water to any good purpose chiefly depends upon the intensity of light and heat to which it is exposed. When these agencies exert their maximum power, water is profusely evaporated ; when they are weak, as now, evaporation and elaboration are both slowly performed. Even a plant in vigorous growth requires comparatively little water now, while those at rest need scarcely any. It is of the utmost consequence also that what is neces- sary should be applied only where it is wanted. November.— Flower Garden, Work in. Auriculas. — These plants are now in their winter quarters ; they require abun- dant air and occasional inspection to see that no worms are in the pots, the indica- tions being castings on the surface ; if such appear, water them with lime water, 01 remove them by repotting. Beds, Manuring. — During this month the flower beds should be enriched with manure or fresh loam, and the soil turned up before frost sets in ; the edges of beds in grass should be gone over with the edging-iron to preserve the form. Beds, Selection of Plants for. — In the selection of plants it is to be borne in mind that duration of flowering should be the first consideration, for few gardens will afford the time or the cost necessary to carry out the plan of a changeable flower garden, in which the beds are decorated in early spring with scillas, bulbocodiums, erythroniums, hepaticas, sanguinarias, and other precocious flowers, to be succeeded by autumn-sown annuals, in masses, in the summer months, and autumnal bulbs, dahlias, hollyhocks, and chrysanthemums, bringing us again to the verge of winter. This system of gardening, however attrac- tive when attended with high keeping, is too costly and entails more trouble than proprietors of the ordinary run of gardens will incur ; therefore the gardener must have an eye to the means as well as to the end, and arrange his plans accordingly. Erythronium dens cam's, Allium moly, Anemone Appennina, Sanguinaria Cana- densis (or Bloodwort), Scilla Italica, Phlox verna, and a vast number of other hardy plants introduced now, will add interest to the flower garden by and by. Beds, Treatment of. — When the beds are cleared, trench them up ; manure and add new soil where necessary, and plant the bulbs for spring flowering. Hardy annuals sown last month, if large enough, may be transplanted at once to their permanent beds, with pansies, al>ssums, phloxes, primulas, and other herbaceous plants from the reserve garden. Carnations, Picotees, and Pinks. — Plants layered in previous months should now be NOVEMBER. NOVEMBER. potted off and placed in their winter quarters, protection from dampness being the chief consideration ; in fine weather let them be fully exposed. Pinks planted latf month only require to see that the winds do not loosen them. Cuttings. — The stock of cuttings should be looked over, and additional heat applied, when the roots are not fully formed. In storing the stock away for the winter, endeavour to keep all those plants together which require similar treatment. Some kinds will stand more damp than others, and may be wintered in common frames ; but the better kinds of bedding-out geraniums, and some other tender things, will require a moderately dry house or pit. Cut f ings, Disposal of. — Late geranium cuttings may be removed to the kerbs of the pine pits, which will assist them to make roots. To preserve verbenas, petunias, &c. , properly through the winter, they must be kept dry to prevent mildew, to which they are very liable in frames during wet weather. As it is desirable to protect the recently struck plants from rains, and yet to give them a large portion of air, the sashes must be daily tilted up back and front, to cause a complete circu- lation. Where room can be found for the bedding stuff in empty vineries, they should be allowed to remain there as long as possible, as in dull weather they become better established than when kept in frames, more especially those only recently rooted. Dahlias. — These are still fresh and gay, if the weather has been tolerably mild : but should frost appear, no time should be lost in taking them up, storing them away carefully labelled, stalks downwards, in some place where they can be secured from damp. Seedlings that have bloomed late and weak plants are benefited by being potted and kept dry through the winter. Florists' Flowers, Soils for. — At this season of the year the amateur cannot do better than get together those soils, &c., which are indispensable for the proper growth of his favourite flowers. Where there is an opportunity of so doing, turf, pared two inches thick from a loamy pas- ture or a green lane side, stacked together to decompose, will be the foundation of his composts. A large heap of melon bed manure should also be secured, not for- getting as large a quantity of fallen leaves as possible. A cart-load of sharp river sand is an indispensable adjunct, and the florist should look out for willow-dust and decayed and rotten sticks. A quantity of excellent food for plants may be scraped out from hedge bottoms. Garden, Alterations in. — Where altera- tions are contemplated, they should be determined on without delay, and pro- ceeded with when the plans are thoroughly matured — not before. To render the grouping system permanently interesting, occasional changes, both in form and arrangement of beds, are necessary ; and a retrospective glance, with a view to future arrangements, will be useful now, while the whole effect is fresh in the memory, and when next year's bloom is about to be provided for. Garden, Routine Work in. — The glory of the flower garden is waning, and it will soon be desolate, in spite of the gardener's care. Meanwhile, keep the beds neat by the timely removal of decaying foliage, and keep the grass and gravel walks clean and smooth by frequent rolling. Plants to be taken up and potted should be attended to immediately, or at least protected during the night, for fear of sudden frosts. Herbaceous Plants. — The herbaceous ground will now require a thorough clean- ing. Cut down t'le stalks of plants done blooming, and see to the support of the few things still in flower, as the Michael- NOVEMBER. NOVEMBER. mas daisies, and rake and hoe the borders neatly. Hollyhocks. — Cut down and propagate from the whole stools, and by eyes from the flowering stems, as formerly directed, but without forcing. Lawns. — The principal lawns should be swept when leaves are numerous, as well as to remove worm-casts, &c. An occasional rolling will keep the surface in good order. Leaves, Collection of. — Now is the best time to collect leaves from lawns and drives, and to stack them in some out-of-the-way place for use. Oak and beech are the most valuable to the gardener, affording the most durable heat. Tread them firmly in the stack, and afterwards thatch them to keep them dry j the remainder may be thrown together for rotting, when they form a valuable auxiliary for potting and composts. Pansies. — These should now be potted off as reserves for filling up vacancies, or for new beds in the early spring ; the beds should be examined to see that the worms have not attacked them. Plants in Pots, &c. — All flowering plants standing in pots or frames should be fully exposed to the sun on every favourable occasion, so as to harden their tissues ; and all growing plants, like the verbenas, stopped back to secure a bushy habit by and by. Most of the verbenas may be kept in a cold pit, dusting a little slacked lime over the soil in the pots or boxes, applying the same treatment to the shrubby calceolarias. Pot up and cut back the dwarf lobelias and CEnothera prostrata, sprinkling a little silver sand among the roots. Lophospermums, maurandyas, and the tropseolums, require a dry and airy situation in the frame or greenhouse when they are taken indoors. Plants, Propagation 0/[— Pelargoniums, calceolarias, and similar plants, as noted in instructions given for garden work ip previous months, are greatly benefited by being placed in a gentle bottom heat until the fresh roots break. Now is an excellent time for propagating cuttings of calceolarias and most herbaceous and shrubby plants, if placed in a cold frame. Chinese, Bour- bon, and hybrid perpetual roses will now root freely under the same treatment. Polyanthuses. — Plants in beds will be benefited if the surface of the soil is stirred, and a top dressing of equal parts maiden loam, leaf mould, and well-decomposed cow dung applied. Roses. — Planting and transplanting are now the chief employment ; if very dry during the month, give a good watering to each plant before the soil is fully filled in. Stocks should also be collected and planted for budding on next season. Prune the old roots close to the stem, cutting alt strong shoots close off. When planted r some cut the head down to within four o> six inches of the height at which they are wanted, and, having levelled the soil, leave them till spring. The best growers prefer leaving the head full until the plant is thoroughly rooted. The true dog rose makes the best stock, and may be dis- tinguished from sweetbrier by the large white thorns which thickly cover the stem of the latter towards the base ; and from those of climbing habit, by the dark green colour of their bark and weakness in their stem. Tulips. — Bulbs not yet planted should be got in without delay, taking care, how- ever, that the soil is not wet ; the beds should be hooped over, and matting pre- pared against rainy weather. November.— Fruit Garden and Orchard, Work in. Apricots, Peaches, Nectarines, and Vines. — The pruning of these may be left tilt February or March, when apricots should NOVEMBER. 7i4 NOVEMBER. be taken first, because they are the first to come into bloom. Cherries and Plums should all be gathered before the frost sets in, and j either wrapped in paper or hung by the | stalk in the fruit room. Pruning should I follow. Cttrrants and Gooseberries. — Plant and | prune both while the weather is favourable, j For the production of large gooseberries, i short pruning is necessary. When quantity is required, and the trees are young-, shorten the young shoots one-half or two-thirds. If the trees are of full growth, only take the points off the young shoots, and when the branches are thinned out, cut back to a bud on the upper side of the shoots. When the trees are pruned, lime the ground, and, if necessary, add manure and dig it slightly. Figs on Walls. — Figs against walls should have any odd remaining fruit taken off. Thin out superfluous shoots, and pinch out the points of the wood selected for bearing, when the branches should be tied together and matted, or protected by haybands, fern, &c., for the winter. Fruit, Care oj. — Let the bulk of kitchen and dessert apples in the fruit room be often looked over to remove decaying fruit. In doing this, be careful not to bruise the others, which would induce early decay. Leaves, &°£., Clearing. — Clear off the re- maining leaves from wall trees ; and now that the greater part of the fruit-tree leaves have fallen, the whole should be cleared off the ground preparatory to pruning and turning up the borders rough for winter. Strawberries. — Continue as directed last month, unless you are inclined to adqpt an expedient which has sometimes produced enormous crops, namely, to take up the old plants in spits and plant them again immediately in the same ground. Young plantations of strawberries should have some short dung spread between the rows, to preserve their yet shallow roots from frosts, which otherwise might lift them out of the ground. Look the beds over, and head the ground firmly round the plants. This is more necessary where the soil is light and rich, as the frost will make such ground more porous. Trees, Dwarf, Shaping. — Towards the end of the month is the best time to com- mence pruning dwarf apples and pears. Define in your mind what particular form the young tree should assume when at its full size, whether pyramidal, globular, or spreading. Shoots to form the skeleton of the tree should next be selected. How far these require shortening will depend on their strength and the object wished for. The remaining shoots must then be cut back so as to fill up the figure. Trees, Large Standard. — Orchard trees, where covered with lichens and mosses, should have them scraped off, and a wash of hot lime and water applied to the branches. Apples, pears, plums, and cherries may be taken in the order in which they are named. Trees on Walls. — Remove all the old shreds where they are used ; those that will do another season should be boiled, to destroy the eggs of insects, before using them again. The large wood looks better neatly tied in with osier twigs. Before tying or nailing, examine the trees, and if infested with scale or other insects, dress them with soft soap dissolved in hot water, to which add sulphur, quicklime, and tobacco water ; mix the ingredients well together, which should be of a consistency to adhere to the branches ; with this dress the branches, but not during frost. November.— Glasshouses for Fruit, &c. figs. — Fig-trees grown under glass should never be permitted to be frozen. NOVEMBER. 715 NOVEMBER. The embryo fruit will most likely be destroyed, and a whole month's or six weeks' forcing lost in consequence. This is a good time to examine the wood thoroughly for scale, &c., and to paint them all over with the composition that has been recommended for vines. Preservation of Grapes. — In fruit culture at this time one of the chief duties is fruit preservation. November is just the very worst month in the whole year for keeping ripe fruit of any kind, and especially trying fur ripe grapes ; one speck of decay or mildew will soon become a thousand under the influence of a November fog. Houses of ripe fruit must therefore be examined daily, and every specked berry or decayed leaf removed. Brisk fires must also be lighted in the morning, to enable air to be given both at front and back, to agitate the atmosphere and expel damp. No plant must, on any account, be placed in the house, nor a drop of water be allowed to fall on paths, &c. ; neither must the house be shut up close until the heating apparatus is cold. Grapes, Ripe, Effect of Increase of Heat on. — An increase of temperature in the absence of a current of air is most injurious to ripe grapes, and causes them to decay almost sooner than anything ; unless during very cold weather, a current of air should always be maintained through vineries containing ripe grapes. Better that the grapes should be slightly shrivelled than that they should be altogether decomposed. In fact, the toughness of rind induced in the process of shrivelling is one of the surest preserva- tives against decomposition. If the houses are not waterproof, or plants must be placed in them, the best plan will be to cut and store the grapes as recommended in instructions for October. Grapes, Ripe, Effect of Moisture on. — Another great point in keeping late grapes is to keep the rain off the borders in which the roots are growing. This i* sometimes effected by thatching with straw, sometimes by the use of boarding or tar- pauling, and often by spreading a layer of concrete, formed by mixing six parts of coarse gravel to one of quicklime, over the surface of the border. If the border has a pitch of 3 or more inches from back to front, and this concrete is put on about 3 inches thick, it will furnish a cheap and efficient waterproof covering ; it may be removed in the spring or not, at the option of the cultivator. Excellent grapes were obtained from vines in a border thus covered for three whole years. During that entire period they were never watered, and never showed any symptoms of needing it ; the surface of the concrete in summer was sometimes so hot that one could scarcely touch it. It never cracked with the sun's rays, however, and early in October it was always covered with strawy litter, to prevent the dispersion of that heat which its absorptive powers had husbanded in the border. Nectarines and Peaches. — If these are wanted next May, the house, or trees in pots, must now be started. They should already have been untied, pruned, washed, &c. Examine the borders thoroughly ; water, and top-dress with good maiden loam, if necessary. See that the house, as well as the trees, is scrupulously clean, so that you do not have to battle with vermin as well as dark skies and inclement weather for the next six months. The Royal George, Noblesse, and Bellegarde or Galande peach, and the Red Roman and Violette Hative nectarine, are the best for early forcing. Proceed slowly ; give no fire unless compelled, and do not exceed 45° by fire heat during the month. Pinery. — Pines swelling off must be assisted by a warm, genial atmosphere of 75°, and be watered when necessary. The bottom heat will require to be examined, NOVEMBER. 716 NOVEMBER, and fermenting material renewed possibly. Plants intended to fruit next spring and summer must be guarded against any sudden check, be kept rather dry, and rest for the next three months in a tem- perature of 60° to 65°. Pinery ', Renewal of Linings for. — Much attention will be necessary to renewing linings, &c., to those in pits, to maintain the requisite temperature. Coverings of mats, reed frames, &c., must also be applied in severe weather, and all sudden changes guarded against. Occasionally, too, some of the strongest succession plants will require water at the roots, although the air may be a great deal too damp. The best mode of applying it will be found in the instructions given last month for the culture of pines. This is the most trying month in the whole year for pine plants in pits ; hence they must receive extra care and attention. Pines, Succession. — Similar treatment, except the resting, will suit the general stock of succession plants. They must be kept slowly moving in a dryish atmo- sphere. Vinery. — After taking care of the grapes that we have, the next thing to be done in point of importance is to look after those that are to come. Vines in a vinery started last month will now be breaking, and a genial temperature of 50° to 55° must be maintained. This should not be exceeded during this month : the absence of the sun renders rapid growth now dangerous. What is gained in rapidity will be lost in solidity and strength. If the sun should shine, however, an increase of 10° or 15° will do no harm, but much good. See that the heat of the outside borders is kept regular, avoiding all extremes'; it may continue 3° in excess of the inside temperature. If border heat is maintained by the aid of dung and leaves, frequent examinations and turnings will be necessary to keep it right ; sometimes fermenting material is also used to aid other means of keeping up the internal temperature. It makes a good deal of extra labour, but has the great merit of both feeding and warming at the same time. Where it is used, it must be partially sweetened before it is introduced, as too much rank ammonia would prove destructive to the tender foliage of the vines. When this is properly attended to, perhaps no food is so grateful to nor so speedily available for the vines as this. When this material is used beneath healthy vines, it should be turned twica at least in the day. Vines in pots. — These may be started in a bottom heat of 53° in dung beds, unless means are found for giving them bottom heat over flues, &c., in the houses in which they are to be fruited. After they have fairly broke, they can be carefully moved to their fruiting quarters ; in many places the first vinery will now be started. Pro- ceed as recommended last month. November.— Greenhouse, Work in. Azaleas, Heaths, &*c. — Greenhouses occupied by heaths, azaleas, &c., not in flower, must be kept cool, dry, and clean. They may also have more air than the conservatory, and a temperature of 40° will suffice. Camellias. — Where these have a house devoted to them, they require careful management now. The buds will just be swelling, and a sudden change of temperature, a scarcity or excess of water, or a cutting draught of cold air, will often cause the buds to drop. Be extremely careful not to give an excess of fire heat when it becomes necessary, and maintain a genial growing atmosphere of 45°. Cinerarias and Calceolarias. — Remove dead leaves, if there are any on the plants ; NOVEMBER. 717 NOVEMBER. there should, however, never be any on them. Shift when necessary into larger pots ; pot off and prick out late seedlings ; water forward plants with clear manure water ; and smoke with tobacco as soon as a single aphis appears. Orchids. — See that they are clean, dryish, keep in a temperature of 65°, and let them sleep. Pansies. — Some of these may be kept and brought into bloom at the warmest end of the house. Pelargoniitms. — A temperature of 45° will suit these during the month. If worms make their appearance in the pots, water three or four times in suc- cession with clear lime water. The repetition is necesSary to insure their destruction, as these pests seem to have the power of casting their skins when injured, and so escape. But as they cannot carry on this evasive system in- definitely, a few repetitions of the lime will effectually destroy them. Remove every dead leaf ; thin out and train the shoots ; shift late-flowering plants into their blooming pots ; and give fire heat enough to drive out damp and enable you to change the atmosphere during mild days or gleams of sunshine. November.— Hotbeds, Frames, &c., Work in. Bedding Plants. — Where the chief stock of bedding plants is kept in pits and frames, they will require frequent looking over, to guard against damp, careful watering, proper protection from frost, and all the air that the external atmo- sphere will permit of. Bulbs in Frames. — Bulbs may be grown and flower in cold frames, and will be found to answer admirably when treated in this way. If spring- flowering bulbs are potted and placed close together in the frames, and covered with about 4 inches of light soil or old tan, and left so till February, they may then be uncovered and exposed to the light ; they will then begin to grow and flower to perfection. When plunged in this way, they need not be uncovered until the time stated ; indeed, they will flower best if not uncovered till they grow through the covering. Cucumbers and Melons. — These will require the same treatment as that recom- mended in January (which see). Heat is most necessary, and, to a certain degree, the more the better. In some families cucumbers and melons are wanted all the year round. This, of course, necessitates the culture of them at this time of the year as well as any other ; and although the difficulty is greater, in proportion to the shortening days and colder air, still they can be grown, and in some cases must be grown. Cucumbers and Melons, How to Grow. — The main secret in growing cucumbers and melons is a steady moist heat that never j falls below 70°, and is better kept up to 80°, and may advantageously be elevated to 90° in the daytime. They must receive no chill ; so long as the roots work kindly, and the leaves revel in a sweet moist heat, they will do well. It is needless to repeat directions that have already been given in full; but this much more may be said, the causes of success or failure should be ob- served or remembered ; it is only by so doing that proficiency is to be attained. The best cultivators will own that they have had many failures ; but failure has given no discouragement, but rather afforded a stimulus to increased effort till success has rewarded their pains. Seeds in Cold Frames. — Seeds of radishes, lettuce, and small salading, may be sown any lime during the month or any time in the winter. They will germinate slowly, but may come in very useful in the spring ; the latter will be ready in about a NOVEMBER. 718 NOVEMBER. month. In frosty weather the protection of a mat will, in addition to the lights, be sufficient protection for most of these things ; but if they become frozen, do not expose them too suddenly. Vegetables, Treatment of, in Cold Frames. —Plants in cold frames are often treated as if they were more tender than they really are. The object is not so much to stimulate them into growth, but to pro- tect them from such injury from frost and storms as they would be exposed to in the open air. Corn salad, endive, lettuce, cauliflower, parsley, carrots, radishes, onions, and many more light crops, are not so tender but that they will stand out of doors ; but then they keep so much better and fresher under the protection of frames, that it is well worth while to have a few lights devoted to them. They also begin to grow rather earlier in the spring, and continue growing later in the autumn, than they would do if quite exposed. Vegetables, Ventilation and Watering of.— Care should be taken not to keep vegetables in cold frames in any way close, so as to breed mould. If any mouldiness accrue, it is a sure sign that they are kept too close. Let the plants have full ex- posure as much as possible, just as if the plants were growing out of doors, with just the aid of the lights to protect them in case of sharp frosts, heavy rains, snow, fog, or winds, should ftiey be more than ordinary. Water should be given rather carefully. Avoid giving enough to chill the roots; a medium state, rather approaching dryness, is better than the least overwetting, especially in frosty weather. November. — Hothouse ' and Forcing Pit, Work in. Bulbs and Flowering Plants in Pit. — The forcing pit, it will be remembered, is an adjunct or accessary to the hothouse, and is artificially heated by pipes. When such a pit as this is attached to the hot- house, introduce into it a few more kalmias, azaleas, rhododendrons, sweetbriers, violets, &c. ; and also the first batch of the earliest potted hyacinths, narcissuses, and other bulbs, if the pots are full of roots, otherwise leave them another week or two, plunged in old tan in a cold pit, the best of all positions for them while they are rooting. If the pot (or glass, if the bulbs be grown in glasses) is once full of roots, while the stem is only starting into growth, a good bloom, with ordinary care, is almost cer- tain. In this condition they may be removed to a forcing pit with a tempera- ture of 55°, to a conservatory, shelf, pinery, or peach house at work, or a sitting-room or kitchen window, with almost entire certainty of success. Crocuses in Pit. — For growing in pots, pans, or baskets, few bulbs can equal crocuses. The pots must be thoroughly drained, as an excess of water is certain destruction to these bulbs ; any light soil will do to grow them in. They can also be grown in moss, damp sand, &c., and their general management may be the same as for hyacinths. They are rather im- patient of heat, or a close, confined atmo- sphere, and can seldom be got to flower well before the middle or end of January. Any sort will do for pot culture, either as edgings to pots, vases, or baskets of hyacinths, narcissuses, or tulips, or arranged in contrasting masses by them- selves. Flo^vers in Bloom in Hothouse. — Here ilie Poinsettia pttlchcrHma, otherwise called Euphorbia pulcherrima. Euphorbia jac- quiniaflora. Begonia m'tida, Gesnera cinnabarina, otherwise Ncegelia cinna- barina, will be lighting up by their dazzling grandeur and enlivening beauty masses of ferns, palms, and variegated plants. Late caladiums must now be watered with great NOVEMBER. 719 NOVEMBER. care, as the bulbs are impatient of damp during winter. Those beginning to go off must have scarcely any water, and as soon as the leaves are matured, it should be entirely withheld, and the pots turned on their sides for the winter. Jonquils in Pits. — These are also beauti- ful and effective if half a dozen or a dozen are planted in a single pot ; otherwise they are too insignificant. The beautiful large double and single sweet-scented can be bought from is. to 33. a dozen. The culture of this deliciously scented flower is precisely the same as that which is des- cribed for the hyacinth and the narcissus. Narcissuses and Polyanthuses in Pit. — These rank only second to the hyacinth for decorative purposes, and totally eclipse it in richness of perfume. They require similar culture to the hyacinth, and will flower in water, sand, moss, &c., but do best in soil. Snowdrops in Pit. — These must not be overlooked. The best way to succeed with them in pots is to take up patches entire out of the garden, place them in pots, and bring them forward on a warm shelf or with a very gentle bottom heat. Accustomed to the companionship of the biting blast and the cold snow, they will not endure much heat ; but gentle, patient treatment will generally be rewarded in due time by the unfolding of their spotless tiny bells. Temperature^ &*<:., of Hothouse. — Re- move every dead leaf and flower as soon as they appear ; water in the morning for the next three months ; keep a tempera- ture of 65° ; frequently change the arrange- ment of the plants, and only admit air in fine weather. Tulips in Pit. — Tulips in pots require similar treatment to hyacinths. The earliest are the single and double Van Thols ; but any of the early single varieties will force. November. — Kitchen Garden, Work in. Artichokes ', Globe. — A good mulching of leaves will be of considerable benefit to these in protecting the crowns from the frost. Let the ends of the leaves be ex- posed, and let them be killed. If a good cordon of leaves grows round the collar of each, they will stand better and come in earlier. Asparagus. — If not already done, this should be cut down, and the beds dressed with very rotten dung, which may be forked in or not ; it signifies but little, as its fertilising qualities will be washed into the ground during the winter, and the rest will be so pulverised as to fork in all the easier in March ; but previous to manuring, all weeds should either be removed, or completely covered by the dressing. Asparagus, New Beds of. — If it is in- tended to make new beds, no better time can be chosen than the present for trenching the ground. If done now, the new surface will be exposed to atmospheric influences the whole winter long, and, if frequently turned, will bfe in fine condition for planting the following April. Beans. — On light ground and sunny borders, these may also be put in without fear of failure. Without such advantages, autumn sowing of them is not to be gene- rally recommended ; the true purpose of it is to have crops a trifle earlier than they would be by deferring the sowing till February ; but the loss during the winter conterbalances the advantages in other respects, and sowing now may be left to those who have plenty of room. ffeans, Runner. — Purl up these, as they will produce nothing more this season ; the haulm may be pulled off the sticks ; or, if all pulled up together, the leaves will soon drop off, and the haulm dry, when all may be chopped up together for firewood, or tied in faggots and kept for many useful pur- NOVEMBER. 720 NOVEMBER. poses. Some burn them out of the way at once. Beet. — Get this crop housed or pitted during this month ; it will not stand frost without injury. Cut off the leaves without injury to the root, and let them lay a couple of days to heal or callow ; then stow them where they will not mould or damp, but can be protected from frost. Broccoli. — Such as are coming in now should be watched. There is a time to cut them, which is ascertained by so doing. Remove dead leaves, and use the hoe between them. Brussels Sprouts, Borecole, and Savoys are best kept free from dead leaves, which in damp weather become unpleasant. Cabbage. — These may still be planted out for the next summer's crop ; but the earlier it is done now the better. Use the hoe freely amongst those planted last month ; they will be much better for it. Cardoons. — Treat in a similar manner to celery. Carrots. — Treat in a similar manner to beet. It is advisable to get them housed before there is any danger of very severe frost. Young crops to stand the winter should be carefully thinned and hoed between. Cauliflowers. — Stir the soil about those in handglasses, and keep the lights off unless frost renders it necessary that they should be kept on. Celery. — It is advisable to give the final earthing up at this time, for celery grows much slower after this month, and must be allowed time to blanch. Besides, should severe frost set in, it might be injured by- exposure. Even that grown merely for soups, &c., had better receive a- little earthing for protection ; and if dusted with lime to destroy slugs, before earthing, so much the better. Endive. — Continue to blanch in succes- sion. If this is done with flower pots, these, as they are removed, can be placed on others. Leeks ought to be earthed up, if not done before, when they can be taken up as wanted. They will continue to grow in mild weather. Lettuce. — Plants, if tied up for blanching, should be kept dry, if possible, or they will soon rot. The advantage of good cabbag- ing sorts will be apparent at this time. Some may yet be planted out to stand the winter. Onions. — The autumn-sown should be treated in a similar manner to carrots intended to stand the winter. Parsnips. — These are as well left in the ground till wanted. Peas. — A sowing may be made now in light soil having a south aspect, but crops are frequently lost during damp winters, and autumn sowing is not recommended to those who have not an abundance of room. Early sorts are, of course, best foi sowing now. Potatoes. — If any are left in the ground till now they should be taken up without delay, and stored, although they have been known to keep well in the ground by taking up every other row, and placing an additional layer of earth over each ridge. Scorzoneras, c. — Heads of Walcheren broccoli should be cut when ready for use, that they may not be injured by frost ; or, when ready, they may be pulled up and hung up, just as they are, in a cellar or any place into which frost will not enter. Cabbages, Scotch kale, or curly greens, Savoys, Brussels sprouts, coleworts, &c., should all be cut for kitchen purposes when they are in an unfrozen state. If cut when frozen, they should be plunged into cold water and allowed to remain there until all signs of frost and ice have disappeared. It will now be seen what advantage there is in giving the various sorts of brassicas plenty of room, and also giving them a place to themselves in a clear open spot. Those planted among other crops are shanky, and more exposed to the frost, while those planted open are short, firm, and stocky, and far more likely to stand severe frost. Let this be con- sidered in cropping next year. Celery. — Cover with litter, if possible, in frosty weather. It will be so much better to take up, beside keeping it fresh and uninjured. Composts, Manures, drv. — Another thing to attend to is proper composts and manures. These may be collected on a spare or vacant piece of ground in the kitchen garden, where there will be plenty of room to turn it over and mix, and where all kinds of woody refuse can be collected and charred and mixed with it. In frosty weather, when the ground is hard, it should be wheeled on to vacant ground. Digging, Dressing, and Trenching. — We are now in the dead of winter. Vege- tation is at a standstill, and whatever seeds or plants are put in the ground now will DECEMBER. 729 DECEMBER. not move or grow for two or three months to come ; but if vegetation does not move, that is no reason why man should not. The experienced gardener knows the im- portance of winter operations, and knows, in fact, how work, judiciously done now, will save much toil in the spring and summer. Supposing it is only necessary to manure the ground once a year, let it be done in the winter ; it is generally most convenient, and the work is better adapted to the season. Digging and trenching is much better done now than in warmer weather, and this more particularly applies to heavy soils ; some, indeed, cannot be cropped at all unless dug a month or six weeks beforehand, either summer or winter; and it is much more advantageous to move the ground, and let it lie in clods so that the air permeates around them, and the action of the frost brings it into a state easy to work, and better for the seeds, than to leave the work to be done just before the ground is required for sowing. Endive. — Blanch with pots, and cover with litter ; and a good supply may be kept up the whole winter without having recourse to frames, the litter helping to blanch it before the pots are put on ; but a dusting of lime should be given occasionally to destroy slugs, which are very fond of endive. Lettuces. — These should be kept under protectors, cloches, or handlights. Air is said not to be essential to them, but of this there is room for doubt. When the frost is severe, loose litter should be placed round and over the frames, glasses, &c., to afford additional protection to the plants. Parsnips.— These and other crops that remain in the ground ought to be covered with litter or leaves. The slightest cover- ing will make a vast difference in case of sharp frost, which should always be looked for at this time. Peas attd Beans of the earliest kinds may be sown on light ground ; but it is not advisable to sow many. Those sown in February will be as early within a few days, and much more certain. Rotation of Crops. — There is now most likely some portion of ground vacant, and as no general cropping can be done for some time, a little attention can well be given, and would be well bestowed, in considering the important matter of a ro- tation of crops. If no regular system has been adopted before, let it be decided at once to begin a systematic arrangement of the various subjects to be dealt with. Much more work may be done under i proper system than by continuing the hap* hazard style ; and not only so, but a great many more subjects may be grown on a given space by giving each group its proper place. Seakale. — Some may be covered for forc- ing. Place the kale pot over a bunch of crowns ; see that enough is covered ; then, having previously prepared and shaken out the dung, and got it into a condition to maintain a moderate heat, cover the pots to a thickness of about 3 feet from the ground. Too great a body of dung is apt to heat too violently, and spoil the crowns ; give just enough to maintain a moderate heat, and no more. The sea- kale will be ready to cut in about three weeks, according to the amount of heat. Some gardeners cover with leaves, which answers the purpose ; but in collecting leaves, a great many slugs and other vermin are collected with them. These do mis- chief to the kale, otherwise the effect is the same. Seed Solving^ &c. — The instructions given in the monthly calendar for November for provision for early crops apply equally to this month, and need not be repeated. Seeds, 6rv.— Some attention should be given both to the various stores of seeds and vegetables : the latter should be looked DECEMBER. 730 DECEMBER, over occasionally, turned, sorted, and cleaned ; kept moist without being damp, cool without frost, and where there is a free circulation of air. As to seeds, it is well to have them ready for sowing — that is, thoroughly dried and rubbed out, every particle of husk and light seed blown out, and carefully papered and labelled. Those that have to be purchased should be pro- cured early. Go to respectable dealers, who can be certain of the sorts being true to name. Note down and procure exactly what will be required for the season, so that no time is lost in running after them the moment they are wanted, and place each sort in its proper drawer or receptacle, that there may be no confusion. Sticks for Peas, Beans, £rV. — Much valuable time is saved in the spring and summer by making a general pruning and trimming of trees at this time of the year. Most trees will be improved by a little cut- ting out ; it prevents them making so much dead wood. Collect all these prunings ; take the bill in hand, and look over the sticks ; see what are useful for supporting peas and beans. Select them both for tall and dwarf sorts. Keep them all separate ; trim them into shape, and point them ; tie them into bundles, and store them up in a dry place ready for use, when wanted ; the remainder may be tied up in faggots, which are useful for various purposes, or, if chopped short and stored in a dry place, will be useful for lighting fires. Let neither time nor material of any kind be wasted ; it is wonderful to what uses a little in- genuity can apply them. Sweet Herbs. — Herb beds should be cleared, and made as neat as possible, both for the appearance of the beds and well- doings of the herbs. In order to procure parsley for garnishing, sauces, &c., plant protectors should be placed over a few rows or cloches, otherwise bell-glasses and hnudlights over individual plants. December. — Shrubbery, &c., Work in. December Work, Importance of. — Many amateurs are tempted to desert their gardens until brighter prospects and more genial weather tempt them forth to their usual labours. A week's cold indifference, how- ever, or studied neglect at this period oi the year may counteract the labours oi years, and render nugatory most of our future efforts to maintain the beauty and utility of the garden generally. In many respects the winter work is even of more importance than that of summer. It is only those who dig, plough, and sow in winter that have any right to reap in summer or autumn. Now is the time to plan and lay the foundation for the future beauty of the garden. Advantage, there- fore, should be taken of this quiet or dead season of the year to remedy any defect or shortcoming that has been brought into prominence by the experience of the pre- ceding summer. Preparation of the Soil. — Having got the ground into the proper shape, see that it is also made of the best quality. Good, properly prepared soil is of the first im- portance in the kitchen garden ; it is even of greater importance here. The perma- nent nature of the plants introduced into shrubberies and flower gardens renders the future improvement of bad soil difficult and well-nigh impossible. All who value rapid, healthy growth must see that everything possible is done to ameliorate the soil before planting. November is the best month in the whole year for planting, but if this work has not been done in November, it should be carried out as early as possible in De- cember. Pruning Trees and Shrubs. — The prun- ing of deciduous trees and shrubs should also be proceeded with, unless during severe frost. Most evergreens are best pruned in April ; nevertheless, as that is DECEMBER. 73i DECEMBER. a busy and this a comparatively leisure reason, the hardiest evergreens, such as laurels, &c., may be pruned now ; any, however, that require cutting down had better be left till thai period. In pruning, it may be said that there are three leading purposes, namely, to improve the shape, curtail size, and to induce a profusion of bloom or fruitfulness. The first is entirely a matter of taste ; the second of space ; and the third the primary object for which all flowering shrubs and trees are cultivated. The two first are entirely effected by prun- ing the top ; the last is more effectually secured by cutting in the roots. This latter does not necessarily, however, supersede the former ; often both may proceed simul- taneously with advantage. One of the chief points in the management of shrubberies is so to prune them and cut down the plants as always to preserve a dense thick bottom. Turf Laying on Lawns, &c. — November is the best month in the whole year to lay turf, but the work may be done very nearly as well in December. Old common is the best possible place from which to pro- cure it. The most convenient dimensions for turf are a yard long, a foot wide, and an inch thick. This, wound up in rolls, is the best size for carting, unwinding, &c. The ordinary price for small quantities, purchased and delivered, is id. per turf, or 3d. per square yard, but it can be taken up at this size at the rate of 8d. per hundred. Thus, enough to cover 100 square yards will only cost 2s. for removal. After all the improvement in lawn grasses, there is no plan of covering a lawn equal to turfing it over ; a good, solid, smooth surface is secured at once. Under the most favourable circumstances, three or four years must elapse before the same point could be reached by sowing. All that is necessary is to make the surface of the required shape, unroll the turf, placing the pieces close together, beat it firmly down, and frequently roll it, and the work is finished. Turfing by Inoculation, — The next best method of covering ground with grass is what is termed inoculation. Pieces of turf are torn, not cut, into pieces — say 2 inches square — and thrown on to the ground, leaving interstices of the same distance, or less or more, between them. Grass seed is then sown over the ground, and the whole firmly beaten down. It is astonishing how soon a splendid turf is thus formed. Winter Management of Shrubberies. — The digging, pointing, top dressing, and cleaning of ©Id shrubberies should also be proceeded with, the turf frequently swept and rolled, the gravel kept scrupulously clean, and every possible thing done to make this outside winter garden attractive and useful during the bleak winter and spring months. 14 DAY USE RETURN TO DESK FROM WHICH BORROWED LOAN DEPT. RENEWALS ONLY— TEL NO. 642-3405 This book is due on the last date stamped below, or on the date to which renewed. Renewed books are subject to immediate recall. FEB i» 197-1 ,67 ^**flifl FEB1 7M-5PMO/J Cr ^J RK'D LD JUL 2971 -2PM oft LD21A-60m-3,'70 (N5382slO)476-A-32 General Library University of California Berkeley IRogal Warrant Ibortlcultural /lfcanufacturer.6 ot /Hbacbinerg to Iking. RANSOMES LAWN MOWERS. Royal Botanic Society, 1904-^1905-1906. (iOLD MEDALS. R.A.S.E.-, London, 1904. ^ILVER MEDAL. Royal Horticultural Society, 1906-1907. BANKSIAN MEDAL. Possess Improvements contained in no other Machines. HAND-POWER & HORSE & PONY MACHINES In all kinds and sizes. Motor Lawn Mowers. The First and Foremost Petrol Motor Mowers. Over 15O have been suppHed, including two to H.M. THE KING. ILLUSTRATED - C^TALQGU US FREE. Ransomes, Sims & Jeffcries, Ltd., The STANDARD MANUFACTURING COMPANY YE OLDE MOOT HALL, DERBY. Makers by Royal Warrant of Appointment to the late Queen Victoria. Sole Makers of the "Standard," "Fulcra," "Giant," and ".ffirial" Automatic Tree Primers. The " MytiCUttah." The "^ffirial" Pruning Saws, &c., on Poles. The "Ideal" Fruit Pickers, Flower Gatherers, Mechanical Weed Destroyers, Leaf Lifters, Hedge and Grass Cutters. Sole Makers of the " ^Erator " Rotary Cultivators, and "Handy-Andy" Patent Hoes, and other Appliances for the Garden, Orchard, Pleasure Grounds, Farm, Park, and Woodland, Lists of, and Sold by, Nurserymen, Seedsmen, Ironmongers, the leading Stores, &c. J. CHEAL & SONS, NURSERIES 110 ACRES IN EXTENT. ORNAMENTAL TREES AND SHRUBS. FRUIT TREES. SEEDS AND PLANTS. LANDSCAPE GARDENING. . o: CATALOGUES POST FREE. «&E JS OUSTS, H.owfield KTurseries, SPECIALITIES. AS SUPPLED OVER 30 YEARS to 6,000 LARGE ESTATES. Quality the Best. Of Proved Durability. Prompt Dispatch. Also any quantity of Seconds, for Plain cr Serrated Fences, Cheap. WIRE NETTING.— Exceptionally cheap to large buyer.*. GARDEN ROLLERS.— Best Make, at prices not obtainable elsewhere. LAWN MOWERS.— English Make, 15/9 and IS/- Carriage Paid. Iron Tubes, Fences, Tanks, Troughs, Cisterns, and Arches. Handsome Garden Illustrated Catalogues Free. JOHN A. RF1BYE (Dept. G.), STONY STRATFORD. TOOPE SHOT WATER HEATER «jfH 14 F ATI UP APPARATUS. GAS, OIL, OP FUEL. Send for Free Catalogue. Low Prices, Superior Goods, Quick Deliveries. . TOOPE, F.R.H.S., & SOS, HEATmG ENOINEERS- Frr Greenhouses. Hothous«s, Garden Frames, Motor Horaep, &c. Propagators. All prices from 1 o/- All Ewes. Prices to suit all. Established 1881. STEPNEY SQUARE, LONDON, R Telegrams — " TOOPES, LONDON." Telephone— 3497E. Fo* FLOWER ^KITCHEN GARDEN BARiTS SEED GUIDE Sent free on application. Contains a Select List of the best Seeds for securing a supply of Vegetables " The Year Round," and a full Descriptive List of the most beautiful Annuals and Perennials for keeping the Flower Garden and Greenhouse always gay. It is full of Practical Hints on the Culture of Vegetables and Flowers, valuable to Gardeners, Amateurs, and Exhibitors. BARR'S COLLECTIONS OF SUPERIOR VEGETABLE SEEDS. 5/6, 7/6, 12/6, 21/-, 42/-, 63/- to 1O5/- 2/6, BARR'S COLLECTIONS OF CHOICE FLOWER SEEDS. 5/6, 7/6, 10/6, 15/-, 2V-, 30/-, 42/-, Full particulars on application. 63/- "I A QD'O BEAUTIFUL HARDY 9HWDAFFODIIS THE MOST LOVELY OFiALL SPRING pLQWEF\S BARR'S DAFFODILS were awarded the only Gold Medal at the Royal Horticultural Society's First Great Daffodil Conference, 18.S4 ; Premier Prize, 1894 ; Gold Medal, 1896; Gold Medal, 1899; Two Gold Medals, First Prize, and £10 los. Challenge Cup, 1901 ; Two Gold Medals, 1902 ; Gold Medal, 1903 ; Gold Medal, 1904 ; Gold Medal, 1905 ; Two Gold Medals, 1906 ; and Two Gold Medals, 1907. Barr's 21/- "Amateur" Collection of Daffodils contains 6 Bulbs each of 26 high-class Daffodils, suitable for the Greenhouse or Se^ ct Flower Border. Barr's 21/- "Woodland" Collection of jbaffodils contains 500 Bulbs in 20 fine showy varieties, suitable for naturalising in grass, shrubberies, etc. BARR'S COLLECTIONS OF BULBS. For Indoor* and Outdoors. Barr's 21/- "Greenhouse" Collection cr-nains 300 Spring-flowering Bulbs of finest quality. Barr's 21 /- "Flower Garden" Collection comains 600 Spring and Summer-flowering Bulbs, all decorative. Barr's 21/- "Woodland" Collection contains 800 Bulbs, suitable to na'urali.-e in Wood- lands, Orchards, Wild Gardens, etc. < For full particulars of the above and other Collections, set Barr's Bulb Catalogue. f> A ¥^r^ C» C*rm.TC* ii, 12 & 13, King Street, BARR