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Pet &

BOOK OF ROSES.

BY

FRANCIS PARKMAN.

BOSTON:
TE ELE TON. AND COMPANY.

Lo 70.

Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1866,
By FRANCIS PARKMAN,
In the Clerk’s Office of the District Court of the District of Massachusetts.

JUL3 1958

STEREOTYPE

.

PRESS OF GEO. C. RAND & AVERY,

7"

TO

Epwarp SpracuE Ranp, Jr,

A HORTICULTURIST

WHOSE ENERGY AND SKILL

HAVE MADE

“A WILDERNESS TO BLOSSOM AS THE ROSE,”

pis’ Book

IS CORDIALLY INSCRIBED.

od

th

mi S

Cs
we

We
«

WS

~ 3 ‘ - , “

c «
a: x 7 Z - :. m
- + -— we:

me. CONTENTS.

PAGE
MUPRECSEVICEION. 0. 'e ee. er, ty Sy ee ee eee 9

: PART I.—CULTURE OF THE ROSE.

CHAP. I.—OPEN-AIR CULTURE.
PLANTING . ; : - - ° . . ° ° e ° ° 16
PRUNING —. i - . : - e e e e e ° < 17
CLIMBING AND PILLAR ROSES - ° . e e e ° ° 21
SUBSEQUENT CULTURE . 3 ~ = . tele ; = 24
An ExpERIMENT IN RosE-GROWING « e Fs = . ° x 24
STANDARD ROSES . - : - ° e ° e e e ° 26
A Novetty 1n Rose CULTURE . . oft er tapas ° is 28
ANOTHER NOVELTY . ahs ° sin a : erdaer +6 - 30

f ENEMIES OF THE ROSE . - ° ° ° e e ° e ° 32

CHAP. II.— POT CULTURE.
A New METHOD - - ° * e e e ° e e ° 46
FoRcING : - : C = F: . e e e e ° < 48
CHEAP FORCING F ° e e ° e a ° 51

RAISING SPECIMEN ROSES - . e os ° e e e 52

CHAP. III. — PROPAGATION.
LAYERS 3 : = 5 e e e e e e e e e 59
CUTTINGS .- - - - ° . ainigt | s6) 1 enh op Sanne : 62
BuDDING .- - P ° ° . e e e e e ° ~ 67
GRAFTING . - ‘ - - e e e e . e S - 74

SuCKERS . : = - : ° ° e e : - . = 76

CHAP. IV.— MISCELLANEOUS OPERATIONS.
| Ratsinc New VARIETIES Sao eo er ee ee ye
IMPROVEMENT OF CLIMBING ROSES ° ° ° . ‘ . ° 87
NATURAL STANDARDS . 4 : : : = * ° F : 88
EFFECTS OF FROST ON SOIL . F e = A ° ° : 89
GROUPING OF ROSES . - - “ . = ° E = FS : 93

6 CONTENTS.

PART I1.—DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE.

PAGE
CHAP. V.— GROUPS AND FAMILIES ° e e e e e ° 95

CHAP. VI.—SUMMER ROSES.

THE PRovENCE RosE : 5 - 5 ° e e e : on Et

THE Moss RosE - - é e ° ° e e ° ° ops eee
THE DaMASK ROSE . c 4 ° ° ° e ° e . eae
MRS AGBA ROSE . 6 se «|: s «© 3 *. ey pit
THE FRENCH ROSE . = ° e e ° ° e ° ° af aoe

THE Hysrip CHINESE ROSE . ; e ° e . . ° - 129
Tue ScotcH Rose . - “ 5 ° e . ° . . oa 3S
THE AUSTRIAN BRIER. : e e e e e e e ° Le
THE DouBLE YELLOW RosE . du a ve Uisiie, Hae d ite Eire . a gf
THE SWEET-BRIER . 5 ° e e ° . e . ° o.) 340
THE BoursAULT ROSE . e ° e e e e . “ «> Arg:
THE AYRSHIRE ROSE - e e e e e e e ‘ $s a
THE EVERGREEN RosE . : ° e e e e Shae oa
THE MULTIFLORA ROosE . e e e e e . ° * 149

Hysrip CLIMBING RosEs - “ 2 e ° ° ° ° «| 5!
THE Banxsia Rose. : 5 e e e e e e ° . 384
THE PRAIRIE RosE .. é ote)” te pata ce etoneanaS 0 1 S55

CHAP. VII.— AUTUMNAL ROSES.

nts CHinese Ose. 252 8 yee ene) gg a
dain STEA-SCENTED ROSE. 2 ag) 6 ee
THe Musk Rose . : 5 : ° e e e e ° . 170,
THE NoIsETTE RosE - 4 ° e e ° e . ° zk

THE DAMASK PERPETUAL ROSE . - “ ° ° ° ° ee 8/5)
THE Bourson Rose. : : “ ‘ e e ° ° . ongelZO
THE Hysrip PERPETUAL ROSE . . 4 was ae ° : © 103
THE MACARTNEY ROosE . s ° ° e ° e e . . (105
THE CHEROKEE RosE . : - on be ° ° - 196
THE SMALL-LEAVED RosE , = ° e ° e e . oe aay
THE PERPETUAL Moss ROsE . ° 5 e ° e e e «. \198
THE PERPETUAL ScoTcH RoszE . . e . . e . « 199

SUPPLEMENT.
ADDITIONAL SELECTED RosgEs < . e ° ° ° - ROE

)
Ni

IT’ ZS needless to eulogize the Rose. Poets from An-
acreon and Sappho, and earlier than they, down to our own
times, have sung its praises; and yet the rose of Grecian
and of Persian song, the rose of troubadours and minstrels,
had no beauties so resplendent as those with which its
offspring of the present day embellish our gardens. The |
“thirty sorts of rose,” of which John Parkinson speaks in
1629, have multiplied to thousands. New races have been
introduced from China, Persia, Hindostan, and our own
country; and these, amalgamated with the older families
by the art of the hybridist, have produced still other
forms of surpassing variety and beauty. This multipli-
cation and improvement are still in progress. The last two
or three years have been prolific beyond precedent in new
roses; and, with all regard for old favorites, it cannot be
denied, that, while a few of the roses of our forefathers
still hold their ground, the greater part are cast into the
shade by the brilliant products of this generation.

a

‘

8 INTRODUCTION. ae ae

In the production of new roses, France takes the lead. *g
A host of cultivators great and small — Laffay, Vibert,
Verdier, Margottin, Trouillard, Portemer, and numberless

others —have devoted themselves to the pleasant art of |
intermarrying the various families and individual varieties
of the rose, and raising from them seedlings whose num- ~ :
bers every year may be counted by hundreds of thousands. |
Of these, a very few only are held worthy of preservation ;

and all the rest are consigned to the rubbish heap. The
English, too, have of late done much in raising new
varieties; though their climate is less favorable than that

of France, and their cultivators less active and zealous in

the work. Some excellent roses, too, have been produced

in America. Our climate is very favorable to the raising

of seedlings, and far more might easily be accomplished
here.

In France and England, the present rage for roses is
intense. It is stimulated by exhibitions, where nursery-
men, gardeners, landed gentlemen, and reverend clergy-
men of the Established Church, meet in friendly competi-
tion for the prize. While the French excel all others in
the production of new varieties, the English are unsur-
passed in the cultivation of varieties already known; and
nothing can exceed the beauty and perfection of some of ,
the specimens exhibited at their innumerable rose-shows. é
If the severity of our climate has its disadvantages, the a
clearness of our air and the warmth of our summer sun 3

~

ne INTRODUCTION. 9

more than counterbalance them; and it is certain that

roses can be raised here in as high perfection, to say the

very least, as in any part of Europe.
The object of this book is to convey information. The

earlier portion will describe the various processes of cul-

ture, training, and propagation, both in the open ground and
in pots; and this will be followed by an account of the
various families and groups of the rose, with descriptions

of the best varieties belonging to each. A descriptive

list will be added of all the varieties, both of old roses and

_ those most recently introduced, which are held in esteem

by the experienced cultivators of the present day. The
chapter relating to the classification of roses, their family
relations, and the manner in which new races have arisen
by combinations of two or more old ones, was suggested
by the difficulties of the writer himself at an early period
of his rose studies. The want of such explanations, in
previous treatises, has left their readers in a state of
lamentable perplexity on a subject which might easily
have been made sufficiently clear.

Books on the rose, written for the climates of France
or England, will, in general, greatly mislead the cultivators
here. Extracts will, however, be given from the writings
of the best foreign cultivators, in cases where experience
has shown that their directions are applicable to the cli-
mate of the Northern and Middle States. The writer
having been for many years a cultivator of the rose, and

10 INTRODUCTION.

having carefully put in practice the methods found suc-
cessful abroad, is enabled to judge with some confidence
of the extent to which they are applicable here, and to
point out exceptions and modifications demanded by the
nature of our climate.

Among English writers on the rose, the best are Paul,
Rivers, and more recently Cranston, together with the
vivacious Mr. Radclyffe, a clergyman, a horticulturist, an
excellent amateur of the rose, and a very amusing con-
tributor to the “Florist.” In France, Deslongchamps and
several able contributors to the “Revue Horticole” are the
most prominent. From these sources the writer of this
book drew the instructions and hints which at first
formed the basis of his practice; but he soon found that
he must greatly modify it in accordance with American
necessities. There was much to be added, much to be
discarded, and much to be changed; and the results to
which he arrived are given, as compactly as possible, in
the following pages.

Jan. 1, 1866.

ei

THE ROSE requires high culture. This belle of
the parterre, this “ queen of flowers,” is a lover of rich fare,
and refuses to put forth all her beauties on a meagre diet.
Roses, indeed, will grow and bloom in any soil; but defi-
cient nourishment will reduce the size of the flowers, and
impair the perfection of their form. Of all soils, one of a
sandy or gravelly nature is the worst ; while, on the other
hand, a wet and dense clay is scarcely better. A rich,
strong, and somewhat heavy garden loam, abundantly
manured, is the soil best adapted to all the strong-growing
roses; while those of more delicate growth prefer one pro-
yortionably lighter.

Yet roses may be grown to perfection in any soil, if the
13

14 CULTURE OF THE ROSE.

needful pains are taken. We will suppose an extreme ~

case: The grower wishes to plant a bed of roses on a
spot where the soil is very poor and sandy. Let him mark
out his bed, dig the soil to the depth of eighteen inches,
~ throw out the worst portion of it, and substitute in its
place a quantity of strong, heavy loam: rotted sods, if

they can be had, will be an excellent addition; and so,

also, will decayed leaves. Then add-a liberal dressing of ©

old stable manure: that taken from a last year’s hot-bed

will do admirably. It is scarcely possible to enrich too

highly. One-fourth manure to three-fourths soil is not an
excessive proportion. Now incorporate the whole thor-
oughly with a spade, level the top, and your bed is ready.

Again: we will suppose a case, equally bad, but of the
opposite character. Here the soil is very wet, cold, and
heavy. The first step is to drain it. This may be done
thoroughly with tiles, after the approved methods; or, if
this is too troublesome or expensive, simpler means may
be used, which will, in most situations, prove as effectual.
Dig a hole about five feet deep and four feet wide at the

lower side of your intended bed of roses: in this hole

place an inverted barrel, with the head knocked out; or,

what is better, an old oil cask. In the latter case, a hole

should be bored in it, near the top, to permit the air to

~

CULTURE OF THE ROSE. 15

escape. Fill the space around the cask or barrel with
stones, and then cover the whole with earth. If your bed
is of considerable extent, a drain, laid in stone or tile,
should be made under or beside the bed, at the depth of
three feet, and so constructed as to lead to the sunken
barrel. Throw out, if necessary, a portion of the worst
soil of the bed, substituting light loam, rotted leaves, and
coarse gritty sand. Then add an abundance of old stable
manure, as in the former case.

In the great majority of gardens, however, such pains
are superfluous. Any good garden soil, deeply dug, and
thoroughly enriched, will grow roses in perfection. Neither .
manure nor the spade should be spared. Three conditions
are indispensable, —sun, air, and exemption from the
invasion of the roots of young growing trees. These
last. are insidious plunderers and thieves, which invade
the soil, and rob its lawful occupants of the stores of
nutriment provided for them.

A rose planted on the shady side of a grove of elm or
maple trees is in one of the worst possible of situations.
If, however, the situation is in other respects good, the
evil of the invading roots may be cured for a time by
digging a trench, three feet deep, between the trees and
the bed of roses; thus cutting off the intruders. The

16 CULTURE OF THE ROSE.

trench may then be filled up immediately; but, if the

trees are vigorous, it must be dug over again the follow-
¢

ing year. It is much better to choose, at the outset, an
airy, sunny situation, at a reasonable distance from grow-
iug trees; but, at the same time, a spot exposed to violent
winds should be avoided, as they are very injurious and

exhausting.

Roses may be planted either in spring or in autumn,
In the Northern States, the severity of the winter de-
mands some protection, when planted in autumn, for all
except the old, hardy varieties. Plant as early as possi-
ble, that the roots may take some hold on the soil before
winter closes. October, for this reason, is better than
November. The best protection is earth heaped around
the stem to the height of from six inches to a foot. Pine,
cedar, or spruce boughs are also excellent. When earth
alone is used, the top of the rose is often frost-killed;
but this is usually of no consequence, the growth and
bloom being only more vigorous for this natural pruning.
Dry leaves heaped among or around the roses, and kept

down by sticks or pieces of board, or by earth thrown on

CULTURE OF THE ROSE. 17

them, are also good protectors. In spring, plant as early
as the soil is in working order; that is to say, as soon as
it is dry enough not to adhere in lumps to the spade..

In planting, prune back the straggling roots with a
sharp knife, but save as many of the small fibres as pos-
sible. If you plant in spring, prune back the stem at
least half way to the ground; but, if you plant in autumn,

by all means defer this operation till the winter is over.

._ The ground around autumn-planted roses should be

trodden down in the spring, since the plant will have
been somewhat loosened in its place by the effect of
frost; but this treading must not take place until the soil
has become free from excessive moisture. Budded roses
require a peculiar treatment in planting, which we szall

describe when we come to speak of them.

Next to soil and situation, pruning is the most impor-
tant point of attention to the rose-grower. Long treatises
have been written on it, describing in detail different

modes arEveabie to different classes of roses, and confus-

ing the amateur by a multitude of perplexing particulars.

Cne principle will cover most of the ground: Weakly-
2

18 CULTURE OF THE ROSE.

growing roses should be severely pruned: those of vigor-

ous growth should be pruned but litile. Or, to speak more.

precisely, roses should be pruned in inverse proportion
to the vigor of their growth.

Much, however, depends on the object at which the
grower aims. If he wishes for a profusion of bloom,
without regard to the size and perfection of individual
flowers, then comparatively little pruning is required. If,
on the other hand, he wishes for blooms of the greatest
size and perfection, without regard to number, he will
prune more closely.

The pruning of any tree or shrub at a time when vege-

tation is dormant acts as astimulus to its vital powers.

Hence, when it is naturally vigorous, it is urged by close

pruning to such a degree of growth, that it has no leisure

to bear flowers, developing instead a profusion of leaves

and branches. The few flowers which it may produce

under such circumstances, will, however, be unusually

large. |

The most vigorous growers among roses are the-

climbers, such as the “Boursaults” and the “ Prairies.”
These require very little pruning: first, because of their

vigor; and, secondly, because quantity rather than quality

of bloom is asked of them. The old and dry wood

CULTURE OF THE ROSE. 19

should be cut wholly away, leaving the strong young
growth to take its place, with no other pruning than a
clipping-off of the ends of side-shoots, and a thinning-
out of crowded or misshapen branches. In all roses, it
is the young, well-ripened wood that bears the finest
flowers. Old enfeebled wood, or unripe, soft, and defec-
tive young wood, should always be removed.

Next in vigor to the climbers are some of the groups
of hardy June roses; such, for example, as those called
the Hybrid China roses. These are frequently grown
on posts or pillars; in which case they require a special
treatment, to be indicated hereafter. We are now sup-
posing them to be grown as bushes in the garden or on
the: lawn. Cut out the old wood, and the weak, unripe,
and sickly shoots, as well as those which interfere with
others; then shorten the remaining stems one-third, and
cut back the side-shoots to three or four buds. This is
on the supposition that a full mass of bloom is required,
without much regard to the development of individual
flowers. If quality rather than quantity of bloom is the ~
- desideratum, the pruning both of the main stems and of
the side-shoots must be considerably shorter.

Roses of more moderate growth, including the greater

part of the June, Moss, Hybrid Perpetual, and Bourbon

20 CULTURE OF THE ROSE.

roses, require a proportionably closer pruning. The
stems may be cut down to half their length, and the
side-shoots shortened to two buds. All the weak-growing |
roses, of whatever class, may be pruned with advantage
even more closely than this. Some of the weak-growing
Hybrid Perpetuals grow and bloom best when shortened
to within four or five buds of the earth. The strong-
growing kinds, on the contrary, if pruned thus severely, .
would grow with great vigor, but give very few flowers.

The objects of pruning are threefold: first, to invig-
orate the plant; secondly, to improve its flowers; and,
thirdly, to give it shape and proportion. This last object
should always be kept in view by the operator. No two
stems should be allowed to crowd each other. A mass
of matted foliage is both injurious and unsightly. Sun
and air should have access to every part of the plant.
Six or seven stems are the utmost that should be allowed
to remain, even on old established bushes ; and these, as
before mentioned, should be strong and well ripened, and
should also be disposed in such a manner, that, when the
buds have grown into shoots and leaves, the bush will
have a symmetrical form. In young bushes, three, or
even two, good stems are sufficient.

Pruning in summer, when the plant is in active —

CULTURE OF THE ROSE. 21

growth, has an effect contrary to that of pruning when it

is in a dormant state. Far from increasing its vigor, it

weakens it, by depriving it of a portion of its leaves,

which are at once its stomach and its lungs. Only two
kinds of summer pruning can be recommended. The first

consists in the removal of small branches which crowd

‘their neighbors, and interfere with them: the second is

confined to the various classes of Perpetual roses, and con-
sists merely in cutting off the faded flowers, together with
the shoots on which they grow, to within three or four
buds of the main stem. This greatly favors their ten-
dency to bloom again later in the summer. ,
When old wood is cut away, it should be done cleanly,
without leaving a protruding stump. A small saw will
sometimes be required for this purpose; though in most
cases a knife, or, what is more convenient, a pair of sharp

pruning-shears, will be all that the operator requires.

When roses are trained to cover walls, trellises, arches,
or pillars, the main stems are encouraged to a strong
growth. These form the permanent wood ; while the side-

shoots, more or less pruned back, furnish the flowers. For

PA. Oe CULTURE OF THE ROSE.

arbors, walls, or very tall pillars, the strongest growers are

ost suitable, such as the Prairie, Boursault, and Ayrshire
roses. Enrich the soil strongly, and dig deep and widely.
Choose a healthy young rose, and, in planting, cut off all
the stems close to the earth. During the season, it will
make a number of strong young shoots. In the following
spring cut out half of them, leaving the strongest, which
are to be secured against the wall, or over the arbor, diver-
ging like a fan or otherwise, as fancy may suggest. The
subsequent pruning is designed chiefly to regulate the
growth of the rose, encouraging the progress of the long
leading shoots until they have reached the required height,
and removing side-shoots where they are too thick. Where
a vacant space occurs, a strong neighboring shoot may be
pruned back in spring toasingle eye. This will stimulate
it to a vigorous growth, producing a stem which will serve
to fill the gap. Of the young shoots, which, more or less,
will rise every season from the root, the greater part should
~ be cut away, reserving two or three to take the place of
the old original stems when these become weak by age.
When these climbing roses are used for pillars, they may
either be trained vertically, or wound in a aie form
around the supporting column.

Roses of more moderate growth are often trained to

- CULTURE OF THE ROSE. 23

poles or small pillars from six to twelve feet high. Some
of the Hybrid China roses are, as before mentioned, well

adapted to this use; and even some of the most vigorous

- Moss roses, such as Princess Adelaide, may be so trained.

Where a pole is used, two stems are sufficient. These
should be examined, and cut back to the first strong and
plump bud, removing the weaker buds always found
towards the extremity of astem. Then let the stems so —
pruned lie fiat on the earth till the buds break into leaf,
after which they are to be tied to the pole. If they were
tied up immediately, the sap, obeying its natural tendency,
would flow upward, expanding the highest bud, and leav-
ing many of those below dormant, so that a portion of the
stem would be bare. (The same course of proceeding may
be followed with equal advantage in the case of wall and
trellis roses.) The highest bud now throws up a strong
leading shoot, while the stem below becomes furnished

with an abundance of small side-shoots. In the following

_ spring, the leading shoot is to be pruned back to the first

strong bud, and the treatment of the previous year re-
peated. By pursuing this process, the pillar may, in the
course of two or three years, be enveloped from the ground
to the summit with a mass of leaves and blossoms.

These and all other rose-pruning operations are, in the

24 CULTURE OF THE ROSE.

Northern States, best effected in March, or the end of
February; since roses pruned in autumn are apt to be
severely injured and sometimes killed by the severity of

our winters.

LGUBSH EVENT .C ULI REY

Nothing is more beneficial to roses than a frequent dig-
ging and stirring of the soil around them. The surface
should never be allowed to become hard, but should be
kept light and porous by hoeing or forking several times
in the course of the season. A yearly application of
manure will be of great advantage. It may be applied in
the autumn or in the spring, and forked in around the
plants. Cultivators who wish to obtain the finest possible
blooms sometimes apply liquid manure early in the sum-
mer, immediately after the flower-buds are formed. This
penetrates at once to the roots, and takes immediate effect

on the growing bud.

The amateur may perhaps draw some useful hints from
an experiment made by the writer in cultivating roses,

with a view to obtaining the best possible individual flow-

\

"ede CULTURE OF THE ROSE. 25

| : ers. A piece of land about sixty feet long by forty wide
was “trenched ” throughout to the depth of two feet and
a half, and enriched with three layers of manure. The first
was placed at eighteen inches from the surface ; the second,

at about nine inches; and the third was spread on the sur-"
face itself, and afterwards dug in. The virgin soil was
: a dense yellow loam of considerable depth; and, by the
operation of “trenching,” it was thoroughly mixed and
incorporated with the black surface soil. Being too stiff
and heavy, a large quantity of sandy road-scrapings was
laid on with the surface-dressing of manure. When the
| and was prepared, the roses were planted in rows.
- They consisted of Hardy June, Moss, Hybrid Perpetual,
Bourbon, and a few of the more hardy Noisette roses.
They were planted early in spring, and cut back at the
same time close to the ground. Many of the Perpetuals
and Bourbons flowered the first season, and all grew with
-aremarkable vigor. In November, just before the ground
froze, a spadesman, working backward midway between
the rows, dug a trench of the depth and width of his
spade, throwing the earth in a ridge upon the roots of the
roses as he proceeded. This answered a double purpose.
The ridge of earth protected the roots and several inches

_ of the stems, while the trench acted asa drain. In the

26 CULTURE OF THE ROSE. oF

spring, the earth of the ridge was drawn back into the

trench with a hoe, and the roses pruned with great severity;

some of the weak-growing Perpetuals and Mosses being

cut to within two inches of the earth, and all the weak
and sickly stems removed altogether. The whole ground
was then forked over.. The bloom was abundant, and the

flowers of uncommon size and symmetry. Had the prun-

ing been less severe, the mass. of bloom would have been _

greater, but the individual flowers by no means of so good

quality.

Of budded roses we shall speak hereafter, in treating of.

propagation. There is one kind, however, which it will —

be well to notice here. In England and on the Continent,

it 18 @ common practice to bud roses on tall stems or

standards of the Dog Rose, or other strong stock, some-—

times at a height of five feet or more from the ground. |

The head of bloom thus produced has a very striking —

effect, especially when the budded rose is of a variety

with ae slender aoe adapted to form what is called a

o weeper.”

In France, standard roses are frequently planted near |

together in circular or oval beds, the tallest stems being in

VA

( il H | i

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CULTURE OF THE ROSE. Zi

the centre, and the rest diminishing in regular gradation
to the edge of the bed, which is surrounded with dwarf
roses. Thus a mound or hill of bloom is produced with a
very striking and beautiful effect.

Unfortunately, the severe cold and sudden changes of
the Northern States, and especially of New England, are
very unfavorable to standard roses. The hot sun scorches
and dries the tall, bare stem; and the sharp cold of winter
frequently kills, and in almost every case greatly injures,
the budded rose at the top. It is only by using great and
very troublesome precaution that standards can here be
kept in a thriving condition. This may be done most
effectually by cutting or loosening the roots on one side,
laying the rose flat on the ground, and covering it during
winter under a ridge of earth. Some protection of the
stem from the hot sun of July and August can hardly be
dispensed with.

With regard to the mounds of standard roses first men-
tioned, it is scarcely worth while to attempt them here;
but a very good substitute is within our reach. By choos-
ing roses with a view to their different degrees of vigor, —
planting the tall and robust kinds in the middle, and those
of more moderate growth in regular gradation around

them,— we may imitate the French mounds without the

28 CULTURE OF THE ROSE.

necessity of employing standards. Of course it will
require time, and also judicious pruning, to perfect such a
bed of roses; but, when this is done, it will be both a beau-

tiful and permanent ornament of the lawn or garden.

OD Moy MRO 2

A new mode of growing roses, so as to form a tall pyra-
mid instead of a standard, has been recently introduced
in England. Instead of inserting buds at the top of the
stem only, they are inserted at intervals throughout its
whole length, thus clothing it with verdure and flowers.
By this means it is effectually protected from the sun, and
one of the dangers which in our climate attend standard
roses is averted. The following directions are copied from
a late number of the “ Gardener’s Chronicle :” —

“Some strong two-years-old stocks of the Manetti Rose
should be planted in November, in a piece of ground well
exposed to sun and air. The soil should have dressings —
of manure, and be stirred to nearly two feet in depth. In
the months of July and August of the following year, they
will be in a fit state to bud. They should have one bud
inserted in each stock close to the ground. The sort to be
chosen for this preliminary budding is a very old Hybrid
China Rose, called Madame Pisaroni; a rose with a most

CULTURE OF THE ROSE. 29

vigorous and robust habit, which, budded on strong Manet-
ti stocks, will often make shoots from six to seven feet in
length, and stout and robust in proportion. In the month
of February following, the stocks in which are live buds
should be all cut down to within six inches of the bud.
In May, the buds will begin to shoot vigorously: if there
are more shoots than one from each bud, they must be
removed, leaving only one, which in June should be sup-
ported with a slight stake, or the wind may displace it.

“ By the end of August, this shoot ought to be from five
to six feet in height, and is then in a proper state for
budding to form a pyramid. Some of the most free-crow-
ing and beautiful of the Hybrid Perpetual roses should
be selected, and budded on these stems in the following
manner: Commence about nine inches from the ground,
inserting one bud; then on the opposite side of the stock,
and at the same distance from the lower bud, insert
another; and then at the same distance another and
another; so that buds are on all sides of the tree up to
about five feet in height, which, in the aggregate, may
amount to nine buds. You will thus have formed the
foundation of a pyramid. I need scarcely add that the
shoots from the stock must be carefully removed during
the growing season, so as to throw all its strength into the
cads. It will also be advisable to pinch in the three top-
most buds rather severely the first season, or they will, to
ase a common expression, draw up the sap too rapidly,

30 CULTURE OF THE ROSE.

and thus weaken the lower buds. In the course of a year
or two, magnificent pyramids may thus be formed, their
stems completely covered with foliage, and far surpassing
any thing yet seen in rose culture.”

Another new method of culture is put forward in recent
French and English journals, and is said to have proved
very successful, increasing both the size of the flowers and
the period of bloom. I cannot speak of it from trial; but,
as it may be found worth an experiment, I extract from the
“Florist and Pomologist” the account there given of the
process by a Mr. Perry, who was one of the first to prac-

tise it. He says, —

“As I have now spoken of the advantages attendant
upon this mode of training, I will proceed to explain the
method of carrying it out. I will suppose that the plants
are well established, and are either on their own roots, or
budded low on the Manetti (the former I prefer). The
operation of bending and pegging-down should be per-
formed in the month of March, or early in April. All the
small growth should be cut clean away, and the ends of
the strong shoots cut off to the extent only of a few inches.
These shoots should then be carefully bent to the ground,

CULTURE OF THE ROSE. aL

and fastened down by means of strong wooden pegs, sufli-
ciently stout to last the season, and to retain the branches
in their proper positions. Care must be taken that the
branches do not split off at the base ; but the operator will
soon perceive which is the best and easiest mode of bend-
ing the tree to his wishes. Many shoots will spring up
from the base of the plants, too strong to produce summer
blooms; but most of them will gratify the cultivator with
such noble flowers in the autumn that will delight the
heart of any lover of this queen of flowers. These branch-
es will be the groundwork for the next year. I have
recently been engaged in cutting all the old wood away
which last season did such good duty, and am now fur-
nished with an ample supply of sNoots from four to eight
feet high, which, if devoid of leaves, would strongly remind
me of fine raspberry-canes, and which, by their appearance,
promise what they will do for the forthcoming season. I
would suggest that these long shoots should now be merely
‘bundled together, and a stake put to each plant, so as to
prevent their being injured by the wind. In this state let
them remain until the latter end of March, and then pro-
ceed as I have before mentioned. I feel convinced, that,
when this method of pegging-down and dwarfing strong-
growing roses becomes generally known, many of the
justly esteemed and valuable robust show varieties will
occupy the position in our flower-gardens they are justly
entitled to.”

S$? CULTURE OF THE ROSE.

RES
BN as)

A good soil, a good situation, free air and full sun,
jommed with good manuring, good pruning, and good
subsequent culture, will prevent more diseases than the
most skilful practitioner would ever be able to cure. There
are certain diseases, however, to which roses, under the
best circumstances, are more or less liable. Of these, the
most common, and perhaps the worst, is mildew. It con-
sists in the formation on the leaves and stems of 4 sort
of minute fungus, sometimes presenting the appearance of
a white frost. Though often thought to be the result of
dampness, it frequently appears in the dryest weather.
Many of the Bourbon roses, and those of the Hybrid Per-

petuals nearest akin to the Bourbons, are peculiarly liable

to it. In the greenhouse, the best remedy is sulphur, *

melted and evaporated at a heat not high enough to cause
it to burn. In the open air, the flour of sulphur may be
sifted over the diseased plants. English florists use a
remedy against mildew and other kinds of fungus, which
is highly recommended, but of which I cannot speak from
trial. It consists in syringing the plants affected with a
solution of two ounces of blue vitriol dissolved in a large

stable bucket of water.

CULTURE OF THE ROSE. 33

The worst enemies of the rose belong to the insect
world. Of these there are four, which, in this part of the
country, cause far more mischief than all the rest combined.
The first is the aphis, or green fly; the second is the rose-
slug, or larva of the saw-fly; the third is the leaf-hopper,
sometimes called the thrip; and the fourth is the small
beetle, popularly called the rose-bug. The first three are
vulnerable, and can be got rid of by using the right means.
The slug is a small, green, semi-transparent grub, which ap-
pears on the leaves of the rose about the middle of June, ~
eats away their vital part, and leaves nothing but a brown
skeleton, till at length the whole bush looks as if burned.
The aphis clings to the ends of young shoots, and sucks
out their sap. It is prolific beyond belief, and a single one
will soon increase to thousands. Both are quickly killed
by a solution of whale-oil soap, or a strong decoction of
tobacco, which should be applied with a syringe in the
morning or evening, as the application of any liquid to the
leaves of a plant under the hot sun is always injurious.
- The same remedy will kill the leaf-hopper, which, being
much more agile than the others, is best assailed on a cold
day, when its activity is to some degree chilled out of it.
Both sides of the leaves should be syringed, and the plant

thoroughly saturated with the soap or tobacco-water.
3

34 CULTURE OF THE ROSE.

.

Two thorough and well-timed applications will suffice to
destroy the year’s crop of slugs.

The rose-bug is endowed with a constitution which
defies tobacco and soap; and, though innumerable remedies
have been proposed, we know no better plan than to pick
them off the bushes by hand, or, watching a time when
they are chilled with cold, to shake them off upon a cloth
laid on the ground beneath. In either case, sure work
should be made of them by scalding or crushing them
to death.

The following account of the rose-bug and the slug is.
from Dr. Harris’s work on “Insects Injurious to Vegeta-

ons: =

~

“The saw-fly of the rose, which, as it does not seem to have
been described before, may be called Selandria Rosce, from its
favorite plant, so nearly resembles the slug-worm saw-fly as not to
be distinguished therefrom except by a practised observer. It is
also very much like Selandria barda, Vitis, and pygmca, but has
not the red thorax of these three closely-allied species. It is of a
deep and shining black color. The first two pairs of legs are
brownish-gray, or dirty white, except the thighs, which are almost
entirely black. The hind legs are black, with whitish knees.
The wings are smoky and transparent, with dark-brown veins,
and a brown spot near the middle of the edge of the first pair.
The body of the male is a little more than three-twentieths of an

CULTURE OF THE ROSE. 35

inch long ; that of the female, one-fifth of an inch or more; and
the wings expand nearly or quite two-fifths of an inch. These
saw-flies come out of the ground at various times between the
20th of May and the middle of June, during which period they
-pair, and lay their eggs. The females do not fly much, and may
be seen, during most of the day, resting on the leaves; and,
when touched, they draw up their legs, and fall to the ground.
The males are now active, fly from one rose-bush to another, and
hover around their sluggish partners. The latter, when about to
lay their eggs, turn a little on one side, unsheathe their saws, and
thrust them obliquely into the skin of the leaf, depositing in each
incision thus made a single egg. The young begin to hatch in ten
days or a fortnight after the eggs are laid. They may sometimes
be found on the leaves as early as the 1st of June, but do not
usually appear in considerable numbers till the 20th of the same
month. How long they are in coming to maturity, I have not
particularly observed; but the period of their existence in the
caterpillar state probably does not exceed three weeks. They
somewhat resemble young slug-worms in form, but are not quite
so convex. ‘They have a small, round, yellowish head, with a
black dot on each side of it; and are provided with twenty-two
short legs. The body is green above, paler at the sides, and yel-
lowish beneath; and it is soft and almost transparent, like jelly.
The skin of the back is transversely wrinkled, and covered with
minute elevated points; and there are two small, triple-pointed
warts on the edge of the first ring, immediately behind the head.

“The gelatinous and sluggish creatures eat the upper surface of
the leaf in large, irregular patches, leaving the veins and the skin
beneath untouched ; and they are sometimes so thick, that not a
leaf on the bushes is spared by them, and the whole feliag. h oks

36 CULTURE OF THE ROSE.

as if it had been scorched by fire, and drops off soon afterwards.
They cast their skins several times, leaving them extended and
fastened on the leaves: after the last moulting, they lose their
semi-transparent and greenish color, and acquire an opaque yel-
lowish hue. They then leave the rose-bushes; some of them
slowly creeping down the stem, and others rolling up and drop-
ping off, especially when the bushes are shaken by the wind.
Having reached the ground, they burrow to the depth of an inch
or more in the earth, where each one makes for itself a small oval
cell of grains of earth, cemented with a little gummy silk. Having
finished their transformations, and turned to flies within their cells,
they come out of the ground early in August, and lay their eggs
for a second brovd of young. These, in turn, perform their ap-
pointed work of destruction in the autumn: they then go into -
the ground, make their earthen cells, remain therein throughout
the winter, and appear in the winged form in the following spring
and summer. During several years past, these pernicious vermin
have infested the rose-bushes in the vicinity of Boston, and have
proved so injurious to them as to have elicited the attention of
the Massachusetts Horticultural Society, by whom a premium of
one hundred dollars, for the most successful mode of destroying
these insects, was offered in the summer of-1840. In the year
1832, I first observed them in the gardens in Cambridge, and then
made myself acquainted with their transformations. At that time
they had not reached Milton, my former place of residence; and
they did not appear in that place till six or seven years later.
They now seem to be gradually extending in all directions; and
an effectual method for preserving our roses from their attacks has
become very desirable to all persons who set any value on this
beautiful ornament of our gardens and shrubberies. Showering

CULTURE OF THE ROSE. 37

or syringing the bushes, with a liquor made by mixing with water
the juice expressed from tobacco by tobacconists, has been recom-
mended: but some caution is necessary in making this mixture of
a proper strength; for, if too strong, it is injurious to plants; and
the experiment does not seem, as yet, to have been conducted
with sufficient care to insure safety and success. Dusting lime
over the plants, when wet with dew, has been tried, and found of
some use; but this and all other remedies will probably yield in
efficacy to Mr. Haggerston’s mixture of whale-oil soap and water,
in the proportion of two pounds of the soap to fifteen gallons of
water.

“ Particular directions, drawn up by Mr. Hageerston himself,
for the preparation and use of this simple and cheap application,
may be found in the ‘ Boston Courier’ for the 25th of June, 1841,
and also in most of our agricultural and horticultural journals of
the same time. The utility of this mixture has already been
repeatedly mentioned in this treatise, and it may be applied in
other cases with advantage. Mr. Haggerston finds that it effectu-
ally destroys many kinds of insects; and he particularly mentions
plant-lice, red spiders, canker-worms, and a little jumping insect,
which has lately been found quite as hurtful to rose-bushes as the
slugs or young of the saw-fly. The little insect alluded to has
been mistaken for a Thrips, or vine-fretter: it is, however, a leaf-
hopper, or species of Teltigonia, and is described im a former
part of this treatise.

“The rose-chafer, or rose-bug as it is more commonly and incor-
rectly called, is also a diurnal insect. It is the Melolontha subspi-
nosa of Fabricius, by whom it was first described, and belongs to
the modern genus Macrodactylus of Latreille. Common as this

insect is in the vicinity of Boston, it is, or was a few years ago,

38 CULTURE OF THE ROSE.

unknown in the northern and western parts of Massachusetts, in
New Hampshire, and in Maine. It may, therefore, be well to give
a brief description of it. This beetle measures seven-twentieths
of an inch in length. Its body is slender, tapers before and
behind, and is entirely covered with very short and close ashen-
yellow down; the thorax is long and narrow, angularly widened
in the middle of each side, which suggested the name subspinosa,
or somewhat spined ; the legs are slender, and of a pale-red color;
the joints of the feet. are tipped with black, and are very long;
which caused Latreille to call the genus MJacrodactylus ; that is,
long toe, or long foot.

“The natural history of the rose-chafer, one of the greatest
scourges with which our gardens and nurseries have been afflicted,
was for a long time involved in mystery, but is at last fully
cleared up. The prevalence of this insect on the rose, and its
annual appearance coinciding with the blossoming of that flower,
have gained for it the popular name by which it is here known.
For some time after they were first noticed, rose-bugs appeared to
be confined to their favorite, the blossoms of the rose; but within
forty years they have prodigiously increased in number, have
attacked at random various kinds of plants in swarms, and have
become notorious for their extensive and deplorable ravages.
The grape-vine, in particular, the cherry, plum, and apple trees,
have annually suffered by their depredations: many other fruit-
trees and shrubs, garden vegetables and corn, and even the trees
of the forest and the grass of the fields, have been laid under
contribution by these indiscriminate feeders, by whom leaves,
flowers, and fruits are alike consumed. The unexpected arrival
of these insects in swarms at their first coming, and their sudden

disappearance at the close of their career, are remarkable facts in

CULTURE OF THE ROSE. 39

their history. They come forth from the ground during the
second week in June, or about the time of the blossoming of the
damask-rose, and remain from thirty to forty days. At the end
of this period the males become exhausted, fall to the ground, and
perish; while the females enter the earth, lay their eggs, return to
the surface, and, after lingering a few days, die also.

“The eggs laid by each female are about thirty in number, and
are deposited from one to four inches beneath the surface of the
soil: they are nearly globular, whitish, and about one-thirticth of
an inch in diameter, and are hatched twenty days after they are
laid. The young larve begin to feed on such tender roots as are
within their reach. Like other grubs of the Scarabeians, when
not eating they he upon the side, with the body covered, so that
the head and tail are nearly in contact: they move with difficulty
on a level surface, and are continually falling over on one side or
the other. They attain their full size in the autumn, being then
nearly three-quarters of an inch long, and about an eighth of an
inch in diameter. ‘They are of a yellowish-white color, with a
tinge of blue towards the hinder extremity, which is thick, and
obtuse or rounded. A few short hairs are scattered on the surface
of the body. ‘There are six short legs ; namely, a pair to each of the
first three rings behind the head: and the latter is covered with a
horny shell of a pale rust color. In October they descend below
the reach of frost, and pass the winter in a torpid state. In the
spring they approach towards the surface, and each one forms for
itself a little cell of an oval shape by turning round a great many
times, so as to compress the earth, and render the inside of the
cavity hard and smooth. Within this cell the grub is transformed
to a pupa during the month of May by casting off its skin, which
is pushed downwards in foids from the head to the tail. The pupa

40 CULTURE OF THE ROSE.

has somewhat the form of the perfected beetle, but is of a yellow-
ish-white color; its short, stump-like wings, its antenne, and its
legs, are folded upon the breast; and its whole body is enclosed
in a thin film, that wraps each part separately. During the month
of June, this filmy skin is rent: the included beetle withdraws from
its body and its limbs, bursts open its earthen cell, and digs its way
to the surface of the ground. ‘Thus the various changes, from the .
ege to the full development of the perfected beetle, are completed
within the space of one year.

“ Such being the metamorphoses and habits of these insects, it
is evident that we cannct attack them in the ege, the grub, or the
pupa state: the enemy in these stages is beyond our reach, and
is subject to the control only of the natural but unknown means
appointed by the Author of Nature to keep the insect tribes in
check. When they have issued from their subterranean retreats,
and have congregated upon our vines, trees, and other vegetable
productions, in the complete enjoyment of their propensities, we
must unite our efforts to seize and crush the invaders. They
must indeed be crushed, scalded, or burned, to deprive them of
life; for they are not affected by any of the applications usually
found destructive to other insects. Experience has proved the
utility of gathering them by hand, or of shaking them or brushing
them from the plants into tin vessels containing a little water.
They should be collected daily during the period of their visita-
tion, and should be committed to the flames, or killed by scalding
water. The late John Lowell, Esq., states that, in 1823, he dis-
covered on a solitary apple-tree the rose-bugs ‘in vast numbers,
such as could not be described, and would not be believed if they
were described, or at least none but an ocular witness could con-
ceive of their numbers. Destruction by hand was out of the

CULTURE OF THE ROSE. 41

question,’ in this case. He put sheets under the tree, shook them
down, and burned them.

“Dr. Green of Mansfield, whose investigations have thrown
much light on the history of this insect, proposes protecting plants
with millinet, and says that in this way only did he succeed in
securing his grape-vines from depredation. His remarks also show
the utility of gathering them. ‘ Eighty-six of these spoilers,’ says
he, ‘were known to infest a single rose-bud, and were crushed
with one grasp of the hand.’ Suppose, as was probably the case,
that one-half of them were females: by this destruction, eight
hundred eggs, at least, were prevented from becoming matured.
During the time of their prevalence, rose-bugs are sometimes
found in immense numbers on the flowers of the common white-
weed, or ox-eyed daisy (Chrysanthemum leucanithemum) ; a worth-
less plant, which has come to us from Europe, and has been
suffered to overrun our pastures and encroach on our mowing-
lands. In certain cases, it may become expedient rapidly to mow
down the infested white-weed in dry pastures, and consume it,
with the sluggish rose-bugs, on the spot.

“Our insect-eating birds undoubtedly devour many of these
insects, and deserve to be cherished and protected for their ser-
vices. Rose-bugs are also eaten greedily by domesticated fowls ;
and when they become exhausted and fall to the ground, or when
they are about to lay their eggs, they are destroyed by moles,
insects, and other animals, which lie in wait to seize them. Dr.
Green informs us that a species of dragon-fly, or devil’s-needle, _
devours them. He also says that an insect, which he calls the
enemy of the cut-worm (probably the larva of a Carabus or pre-
daceous ground-beetle), preys on the grubs of the common dor-bug.
In France, the golden ground-beetle (Carabus auratus) devours

42 CULTURE OF THE ROSE.

the female dor, or chafer, at the moment when she is about to
deposit her eggs. I have taken one specimen of this fine ground-
beetle in Massachusetts; and we have several other kinds equally
predaceous, which probably contribute to check the increase of
our native Melolonthians.”

=>
——SS =

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4

MANY OF the ever-blooming roses cannot, in our
climate, be cultivated in the open air without extreme
precaution to protect them from the cold. To grow them
most successfully, the aid of glass is necessary. Many of the
Hardy Perpetual roses may also be grown with advantage in
pots, by which means their bloom may be prolonged into the
early winter months, or they may be forced into premature
flowering long before their natural season of bloom. The
first essential in the pot culture of roses is the preparation
of the soil. Those of delicate growth, like most of the
China and Tea roses, require a lighter soil than the more
robust varieties, like most of the Hardy Perpetuals. A

mixture of loam, manure, leaf-mould, and sand, in the pro-
43

44 CULTURE OF THE ROSRE.

portion of two bushels of loam to one bushel of manure,
one bushel of leaf-mould, and half a bushel of sand, makes
a good soil for the more delicate roses. For the more
robust kinds, the proportion of loam and of manure should
be greater. In all cases, the materials should be mixed
two or three months before they are wanted for use, and
turned over several times to incorporate them thoroughly.
They are frequently, however, mixed, and used at once.
The best loam is that composed of thoroughly rotted turf.
A very skilful English rose-grower, Mr. Rivers, recom-
mends the compact turf shaved from the surface of an old
pasture, and roasted and partially charred on a sheet of
iron over a moderate fire. I have found no enriching
material so good as the sweepings from the floor of a
horse-shoer, in which manure is mixed with the shavings
of hoofs. It is light and porous, and furnishes, in decom-
posing, a great quantity of ammonia. For the more deli-
cate roses it is particularly suited, while the stronger kinds
will bear manures of a stronger and denser nature. The
light black soil from the woods is an excellent substitute
for leaf-mould; or, to speak more correctly, it is a natural
leaf-mould in the most thorough state of decomposition.
Young and thrifty roses which have been grown during

summer may be potted for the house in September. They

CULTURE OF THE ROSE. 45

should be taken up with care, the large straggling roots
cut back, and all bruised ends removed with a sharp knife.
The ends of the branches should also be cut back. They
may then be potted in the compost just described, which
should first be sifted through a very coarse sieve. The
pots must be well drained with broken crocks placed over
the hole at the bottom. Care must be taken that the pot
be not too large, as this is very injurious. A sharp stick
may be used to compact the soil about the roots; and from
half an inch to an inch in depth should be left empty at
the top, to assist in thorough watering, which is a point
of the first importance.

When the roses are potted, they should be placed in a
light cellar or shed, or under a shady wall. They must be
well watered, and it is well to syringe them occasionally.
In a week or two they will have become established, and -
may then be removed to a greenhouse without fire, and
with plenty of air; care, however, being taken to protect
them from frost at night.

The roses so treated are intended for blooming from
mid-winter to the end of spring; and we shall soon speak
further of them under the head of Forcing.

A great desideratum is the obtaining of roses in the

early part of winter. This may be done by growing ever-

46 CULTURE OF THE ROSE.

blooming roses in pots in the open air during summer,
plunging the pot in the earth, and placing a tile or brick
beneath it to prevent the egress of roots and the ingress of
worms. Towards the end of August, cut off all the flow-
ers and buds, at the same time shortening the flower-stalks
to two or three eyes. Then give the roses a supply of
manure-water to stimulate their growth. If they are in a
thrifty condition, they will form new shoots and flower-
buds before the frost sets in; and may then be removed to
a cold greenhouse, where they will continue.to flower for

several months.

BENE MERON

The following is the description given by Mr. Rivers of
a practice recently introduced in England, and which
seems well worth a trial here, with such modifications as
the heat of our sun may require :—

“To have a fine bloom of these roses, or, indeed, of any ~
of the Hybrid Perpetuals, Bourbons, or China roses, in
pots towards the end of summer or autumn, take plants
from small pots (those struck from cuttings in March or
April will do), and put them into six-inch, or even eight-
inch pots, using a compost of light turfy loam and rotten
manure, equal parts: to a bushel of the compost add half

CULTURE OF THE ROSE. 47

a peck of pounded charcoal, and the same quantity of
silver sand; make a hot-bed of sufficient strength, say
three to four feet in height, of seasoned dung, so that it is
not of a burning heat, in a sunny, exposed situation,’ and
on this place the pots; then fill up all interstices with saw-
dust, placing it so as to cover the rims, and to lie on the
surface of the mould in the pots about two inches deep.
The pots should have a good sound watering before they
are thus plunged, and have water daily in dry weather.
The bottom heat and full exposure to the sun and air will
give the plants a vigor almost beyond belief. This very
simple mode of culture is as yet almost unknown. I have
circulated among a few friends the above directions; and
have no doubt, that, in the hands of skilful gardeners, some
extraordinary results may be looked for in the production
of specimens of soft-wooded plants. I may add, that,
when the heat of the bed declines towards the middle of
July, the pots must be removed, some fresh dung added,
and the bed remade, again plunging the plants immedi-
ately. Towards the end of August, the roots of the plants
must be ripened: the pots must, therefore, be gradually
lifted out of the saw-dust; ice., for five or six days, expose
them about two inches below their rims; then, after the
same lapse of time, a little lower, till the whole of the pot
is exposed to the sun and air: they may be then removed
to the greenhouse, so as to be sheltered from heavy rain.
They will bloom well in the autumn, and be in fine order

48 ULTURE OF THE ROSE.

for early forcing. If plants are required during the summer
for exhibition, or any other purpose, care must always be
taken to harden or ripen their roots, as above, before they
are removed from the hot-bed.”

“ Forcing” is the very inappropriate name of the process
by which roses and other plants are induced to bloom
under glass in advance of their natural season. We say
that the name is inappropriate, because one of the chief
essentials to the success of the process consists in an
abstinence from all that is violent or sudden, and in the
gentle and graduated application of the stimulus of arti-
ficial heat.

Roses may be forced in the greenhouse, but not to ad-
vantage, because the conditions of success will be incon-
sistent with the requirements of many of the other plants.
The process is best carried on in a small glass structure
made for such purposes, and called a “ forcing-pit.”

A pit ten or twelve feet long and eight or ten wide will
commonly be large enough. It may be of the simplest
and cheapest construction. In a dry situation, there is

advantage in sinking the lower part of it two or three feet

CULTURE OF THE ROSE. 49

below the surface of the ground. The roses may be placed
on beds of earth, or on wooden platforms, so arranged as to
bring the top of the plants near the glass; and a sunken
path may pass down the middle. The pit may be heated
by a stove enclosed with brick-work, and furnished with a
flue of brick or tile passing along the front of the pit, and
entering the chimney at the farther end. The lights must
be movable, or other means provided’ for ample ventila-
tion; and if these are such that the air on entering will
pass over the heated flues, and thus become warmed in the
passage, great advantage willresult. A pit may be append-
ed to a-greenbouse; in which case it. may be heated by
hot-water pipes furnished with means of cutting off or
letting on the water.

The roses potted for forcing, as directed in the last sec-
tion, should be kept in a dormant state ‘till the middle of
December. <A portion of them may then be brought into
the pit, and the young shoots pruned back to two or three
eyes. The heat at first must be very moderate, not much
exceeding forty-five degrees in the daytime: and, through-
out the process, the pit should be kept as cool as possible
at night; great care, however, being taken that no frost is
admitted. With this view, the glass should be covered at

sunset with thick mats. Syringe the plants as the buds
4

50 CULTURE OF THE ROSE.

begin to swell, and lose no opportunity to give air on mild
and bright days. Raise the heat gradually till it reaches
sixty degrees; which is enough during the winter months,
so far as fire-heat is concerned. The heat of the sun will
sometimes raise it to seventy or eighty degrees. Syringe
every morning; and, if the aphis appears, fumigate with
tobacco; then syringe forcibly to wash off the dead insects.
As the plants advance in growth, they require plenty of
water; and, as the buds begin to swell, manure-water may
be applied once or twice. When the buds are ready to
open, the pots may be removed to the greenhouse or
drawing-room, and another supply put in their place for a
second crop of flowers. When the blooms are faded, the
flower-stalks may be cut back to two or three eyes, and
the plants placed again in the forcing-pit for another crop.
This, of course, is applicable to ever-blooming roses only.
The most common and simple way, however, of obtain-
ing roses in winter, is to grow them on rafters in the green-
house. Some of the Noisette, China, and Tea roses, thus
treated, will furnish an abundant suppiy of excellent
flowers. By pruning them at diiferent periods during the
summer and autumn, they will be induced to flower in
succession; since, with all roses, the time of blooming is,

to a great degree, dependent on the time of pruning.

CULTURE OF THE ROSE. |

Roses potted in the manner described for forcing may
also be brought into bloom in the sunny window of a
chamber or drawing-room. They will bloom much better
if allowed to remain at rest in a cool cellar for a month or

two after potting.

The following is a cheap mode of forcing, described by
an English cultivator. The amateur may, perhaps, be dis-

posed to make the experiment.

“Those who wish for the luxury of forced roses at a tri-
fling cost may have them by pursuing the following simple
method: Take a common garden frame, large or small,
according to the number of roses wanted; raise it on some
posts, so that the bottom edge will be about three feet
from the ground at the back of the frame, and two feet in
zront, sloping to the south. If it is two feet deep, this will
give a depth of five feet under the lights at the back of
the frame, which will admit roses on little stems as well as
dwaris. Grafted or budded plants of any of the Perpetual
roses should be potted in October, in a rich compost of
equal portions of rotten dung and loam, in pots about
eight inches deep and seven inches over, and plunged in the
soil at the bottom. The air in the frame may be heated by
linings of hot dung; but care must be taken that the dung

52 CULTURE OF THE ROSE.

be turned over two or three times before it is used, other-
wise the rank and noxious steam will kill the young and
tender shoots: but the hazard of this may be avoided by
building a wall of turf, three inches thick, from the ground
to the bottom edge of the frame. This will admit the
heat through it, and exclude the steam. The Perpetual
roses, thus made to bloom early, are really beautiful.”

RMSING SPRACHEN ROSES

Now, in the way of exciting the reader’s emulation, I
will mention a few items of the opening flower-show of
the Crystal Palace, Sydenham, on the 26th of May, a few
years ago. The following specimens of roses, in pots, are
chronicled among innumerable others : —

Mapame WitterMmoz (Tea-scented Rose), seven feet
high, with more than a hundred expanded flowers.

SouveNIR DE LA Matmaison (Bourbon Rose), with
thirty expanded flowers, the largest more than five inches
in diameter.

Pavut Perras (Hybrid Bourbon Kose), six feet high,
with nearly a hundred expanded flowers.

Cours p’Hést (Hybrid Bourbon Rose), six feet high,
covered with a mass of bloom.

These were all raised by Mr. Paul, one of the most skilful

CULTURE OF THE ROSE. 53

of English rose-growers; and were the results of patience,
care, and experience. We hold the production of speci-
mens like these a work of art worthy of zealous emulation.
Our climate is quite as favorable to their production as
that of England; and, when the floricultural art has reached
among us the same development, our horticultural shows
will, no doubt, boast decorations equally splendid. The
plants just mentioned were the productions of a nursery-
man; but specimens of roses grown to the highest perfec-
tion are every year exhibited in England by amateur
cultivators. The competition for prizes, far from being a
mere strife for a small sum of money, is an honorable
emulation, in which the credit of success is the winner’s
best reward.

One point cannot be too often urged in respect to horti-
cultural pursuits. Never attempt to do any thing which
you are not prepared to dothoroughly. A little done well
is far more satisfactory than a great deal done carelessly
and superficially. He who raises one perfect and fully
developed specimen of a plant is a better horticulturist
than he who raises an acre of indifferent specimens. The
amateur who has made himself a thorough master of the
cultivation of a single species or variety, has, of necessity,

acquired a knowledge and skill, which, with very little

54 CULTURE OF THE ROSE.

pains, he may apply to numberless other forms of culture.
Learn to produce a first-class specimen of the rose grown
in a pot, and you will have no difficulty in successfully
applying your observation and experience to a vast variety
of plants. We will, therefore, enter into some detail as to
the methods of procedure. For many of the specific direc-
tions I am indebted to Mr. Paul, the exhibiter of the fine
specimens named above, and the author, among other
books, of a useful little treatise on the cultivation of roses
in pots.

Soil is the point that first demands attention, and direc-
tions concerning it have already been given. You have
bought a number of young roses, in small pots, in the
spring. Be sure that these roses have been in a dormant
state during the winter; for, if they have been kept in
growth, their vital power is partially exhausted. They may
be budded on short stems of the Manetti or. other good
stock (see the chapter on Budding), or they may be on
their own roots. The Tea and China roses are certainly
better in the latter condition. Shift them from the small
pots into pots a very little larger, without breaking the
ball of earth around their roots. Water them well, and
plunge them to the edge of the pot in earth, in an open,

airy, sunny place. Or they may be set on the surface,

CULTURE OF THE ROSE. D5

provided the spaces between them are well packed with
tan, coal-ashes, or swamp-moss. The last is excellent: it
holds moisture like a sponge. In every case, the pots
should rest on flat bricks, slates, tiles, or inverted pans, in
order that worms may be excluded, and that the roots
may not be tempted to thrust themselves through the
hole. In potting, thorough drainage should be secured by
placing broken crocks at the bottom of the pot.
Encourage the growth of the plants by pinching off the
flower-buds. The object throughout the summer is to get
a few stout well-ripened shoots by autumn. Therefore the
pots should not be very close together, since this would
deprive the plants of free air and sunlight. Watering
must be carefully attended to. Cut out, or pinch off, weak
or ill-placed shoots; or, what is better, prevent their growth
by rubbing off the buds that threaten to form such. Thus,
if several buds are crowded together in one place, rub off
all buts one or two of them, choosing the strongest for
preservation. This is called dis-budding. 'Those of the
plants that grow most vigorously will require to be shifted
into still larger pots in July; but this should be done
only in cases where it is necessary. As a guide on this
point, turn them carefully out of the pots to examine the

roots; and, if these are found protruding in great abun-

56 CULTURE OF THE ROSE.

dance from the ball of earth, larger pots will be required;
but, if otherwise, the same one will suffice. Some roses
suffer greatly if placed in pots too large for them; and the
same is more or less true of all plants.

Late in autumn, when growth has ceased, shift the roses
again, if they need it, and place them for wintering in a
cellar or cold frame. In the spring, prune them, as directed
in the chapter on Pruning. After the rose is pruned, stake
out the shoots to as great distances as possible. Indeed,
the larger ones should be made to lie almost horizontal:
this will cause the buds to “break,” or open, regularly
along their whole length; whereas, if left upright, a few at
the top would break, and the rest remain dormant. As
soon as the buds have opened, the shoots may be tied up
again. Syringe the opening buds, and water moderately,
increasing the amount of moisture as the leaves expand,
and watering abundantly during all the period of full
activity of growth; that is, during summer and early
autumn. An occasional application of manure-water is
useful. Watch for insects and mildew, and apply the
remedies elsewhere directed. About midsummer, shift
those that need it into larger pots; an operation which, if
performed with skill, will not check their growth in the

least. Continue to dis-bud and to remove weak and ill-

CULTURE OF THE ROSE. Ba

placed shoots, tying out the rest, as they grow, to stakes,
in order to bring the plant into a symmetrical form. This
form is a matter of taste with the cultivator: it may be a
half-globe, a fan, ora pyramid orcone. The last is usually
the best; one strong stem being allowed to grow in the
centre, and smaller stems trained in gradation around it.
None must interfere with their neighbors, and air should
have free play through the plant.

You have reached the second autumn, and your plants
are now excellent for forcing ; but, if you aim at first-class
specimens, you must give them, at the least, one season
more of growth and training. To this end, keep them
dormant through the winter in a cellar or cold frame as
before, and prune them early in spring. We will sup-
pose that a pyramidal plant is desired. As soon as they
are pruned, draw the lower shoots downwards over the
rim of the pot, just beneath which a wire should pass
around, to which the shoots are to be tied with strings of
bass-matting. The shoots higher up are to be arranged,
with the aid of sticks and strings, so as to decrease in cir-'
cumference till they terminate in a point. Constant care
and some judgment are needed throughout the growing
season to preserve symmetry of form. Strong shoots must be

pinched back, and weak ones encouraged. Both the plant,

58 CULTURE OF THE ROSE.

and the pot that contains it, are, or ought to be, so large
by this time, that handling them, especially in the act of
shifting, becomes somewhat difficult. In the third, or at
farthest in the fourth autumn, you may expect, as the
result of your pains, a plant that in its blooming season
will make a brilliant contrast with the half-grown and
indifferent specimens sometimes exhibited at our horticu!-
tural shows.

If you forget every other point of the above directions,
keep in mind the following: Drain your pots thoroughly;
and, when you water them, be sure that you vive water
enough to penetrate the whole mass of the earth contained
in them. Watering only the surface, and leaving the roots

dry, is ruinous.

RK Hatr Sere

THERE ARE tive modes of propagating the rose,
— by layers, by cuttings, by budding, by grafting, and by

suckers.

This is perhaps, for the amateur, the most convenient
and certain method. The best season for layering is the
summer, from the end of June to the end of August; and,
for some varieties, even later. The rose which is to be
multiplied should be in a condition of vigorous growth.
Loosen and pulverize the scil around it; and,if heavy and
adhesive, add a liberal quantity of very old manure mixed

with its bulk of sharp sand. The implements needed for

59

60 CULTURE OF THE ROSE.

the operation are a knife, a trowel, and hooked wooden
pegs. Choose a well-ripened shoot of the same season’s
growth, and strip off the leaves from its base a foot or more
up the stalk; but, by al! means, suffer the leaves at the
end to remain. Bend the shoot gently downward with
the left hand, and insert the edge of the knife in its upper
or inner side six or eight inches from its base, and imme-
diately below abud. Cut half way through the stem; then
turn the edge of the knife upward, and cautiously slit the
stem through the middle, to the length of an inch and a
half. thus a tongue of wood, with a bud at its end, will be
formed. With the thumb and finger of the left hand raise

the upper part of the stem erect, at the same time by a

slight twist turning the tongue aside, steadying the stem

meanwhile with the right hand. Thus the tongue will be
brought to a right angle, or nearly so, with the part of the
stem from which it was cut. Hold it in this position with
the left hand, while with the trowel you make a slit in the
soil just beneath it. Into this insert the tongue and bent
part of the stem to a depth not much exceeding two inches.
Press the earth firmly round them, and pin them down
with one of the hooked pegs. Some operators cut the
tongue on the lower or outer side of the stem; but this

has a double disadvantage. In the first place, the stem is

CULTURE OF THE ROSE. 61

much more liable to break in being bent; and, in the next
place, the tongue is liable to re-unite with the cut part, and
thas defeat the operation. When all is finished, the ex-
tremity of the shoot should stand out of the ground as
nearly upright as possible, and should by no means be cut
back, —a mistaken practice in use with some gardeners.

In a favorable season, most of the layers will be well
rooted before the frost sets in. Ifthe weather is very dry,
there will be many failures. Instead of roots, a hard
cellular substance will form in a ball around the tongue.
In the dry summer of 1864, the rose-layers were thus
“clubbed” with lumps often as large as a hen’s egg; but
cases like this are rare.

In November, it is better in our severe climate to take
up the rooted layers, and keep them during winter in
a “cold frame;” that is, a frame constructed like that ofa
hot-bed, without the heat. Here they should be set closely
in light soil to the depth of at least six inches, and covered
with boards and matting; or they may be potted in small
pots, and placed in a frame or cellar.

Layers may be made in spring from wood of the last
season’s growth; but laying the young wood during sum-

mer, as described above, is much to be preferred.

62 CULTURE OF THE ROSE.

All roses may be propagated by cuttings; but some
kinds strike root much more readily than others. The
hard-wooded roses, including the entire family of the
Hardy June roses, and especially the Mosses, are increased
with difficulty by cuttings. The Hybrid Perpetuals root
more readily; while the tender ever-blooming ee includ-
ing the Teas, Noisettes, and Chinas, are propagated in this
way with great ease.

Cuttings may be made from the ripened or the half.
ripened wood. In the case of roses, and of nearly all
ligneous plants, cuttings made from the ripe wood do not
require bottom-heat, and are more likely to be injured than
benefited by it. On the other hand, cuttings of the soft
or unripe wood strike root with more quickness and cer-
tainty if stimulated by the application of a gentle heat
from below.

In propagating roses from the ripe wood, the cuttings
must be made early in autumn from wood of the same
season’s growth. The chances of success will be increased
if they are taken off close to the old wood with what is

called a “heel;” that is, with a very small portion of the

eee
piesa

CULTURE OF THE ROSE. 63

old wood attached. The heel should be trimmed sinooth
with a sharp knife: the cuttings may be six or eight inches
long. Strip off any leaves which may still adhere to them,
and plant them in rows, at a depth of about five inches, in
a cold frame. The soil should be very light, and thoroughly
drained: water it, to settle it, around the cuttings. On
the approach of frost, they should be protected with boards
and mats, giving them air on fine days during winter. In
the spring, a white cellular growth called a “callus” will
have formed at the heel of each cutting, which, if the
process succeeds, will soon emit roots, and become a plant.

Propagation in summer from the half-ripe wood is a
better and less uncertain method. In June and July, im-
mediately after the blossoms wither, and before the rose
has begun its second growth, cuttings should be made of
the flower-stems. Each cutting may contain two or three
buds. The lower leaves must be taken off; but the upper
leaves must remain. Trim off the stem smoothly with a
sharp knife below the lowest bud, and as near to it as pos-
sible without injuring it.

If the cuttings are taken off with a heel, as above de-
scribed, the chance of success will be greater. They may

now be inserted at the depth of an inch and a half around

the edge of a small pot filled one-third with broken crocks,

64 CULTURE OF THE ROSE.

and the remainder with a mixture of loam, leaf-mould, and
sharp sand. Now place them in a frame on the shady
side of a hedge or fence, water them to settle the soil, and
cover them closely with glass. Sprinkle them lightly
every morning and night; and, when moisture gathers on
the inner surface of the glass, turn it over, placing the dry
side inward. If mould or decay attacks the cuttings,
wedge up the glass a little to give them air. In a week
or two, they will form a callus; after which they may be
removed toa gentle hot-bed, kept moderately close, and
shaded from the direct sun. Here they will quickly strike
root, and may be potted off singly into small pots.
Another mode of propagation, and a favorite one with
nursery-men, is practised early in the spring. In this case,
the cuttings are made from forced roses, or roses grown on
ereenhouse rafters. Some propagators prefer the wood
in a very soft state, cutting it even before the flowers are
expanded. The cuttings may be placed in pots as in the
former case, or in shallow boxes or earthen pans thor-
oughly drained with broken crocks. The soil should be
shallow enough to allow the heel of the cutting to touch
the crocks. They are to be placed at once on a moderate
bottom-heat, covered closely with glass, and shaded from

the direct rays of the noontide sun. Their subsequent

CULTURE OF THE ROSE. 65

treatment is similar to that of summer cuttings. They
must be closely watched, and those that show signs of
mould or decay at once removed.

After the callus is formed, they will bear more air.
When rooted, they should be potted into small pots, and
placed on a hot-bed of which the heat is on the decline.
Towards the end of May, when the earth is warmed by
the sun, they may be turned out of the pots into the open
ground, where they will soon make strong plants.

Many American nursery-men strike rose-cuttings in
spring, in pure sand, over a hot-bed or a tank of hot water,
in the close air of the propagating-house. They must be
potted immediately on rooting, as the sand supplies them
with nothing to subsist on. We have seen many hundreds
rooted in this way with scarcely a single failure.

The management of difficult cuttings requires a certain
tact, only to be gained by practice and observation; and
the gardener who succeeds in rooting a pot of cuttings of
the Moss Rose has some reason to be proud of his success.

With respect to the relative value of roses propagated
by the methods above described, the most experienced
cultivators are unanimous in the opinion, that those raised
from layers and from cuttings of the ripe wood, without

artificial heat, are superior in vigor and endurance to those
:

66 CULTURE OF THE ROSE.

raised from the half-ripe wood with the stimulus of a close
heat. Unfortunately, the former method is so slow and
uncertain when compared with the latter, that nursery-
men rarely employ it to any great extent; and a good
choice of roses on their own roots, raised without heat, is
sometimes difficult to find.

The following is a mode of propagation not often prac-

tised, but which is well worthy of trial, as it is applicable

to prunings which are usually thrown away. The extract
is from the “ Gardener’s Chronicle.”

“The rose is as easily propagated by means of buds or
eyes as the vine. If your correspondent ‘X’ will take a
strong shoot from almost any kind of rose in a dormant
state, and with a sharp knife cut it into as many pieces as
there are good eyes on the shoots, the pieces not being
more than one inch long, taking care to have the eye in
the centre of the piece, he will doubtless succeed. One-
third of the wood should be cut clean off from end to end
at the back of the eye, just as you would prepare a vine
eye. In preparing the cutting-pans, it is most essential to
put a good quantity of broken potsherds in the bottom,
beginning with large pieces, and finishing with others
more finely broken: then mix a quantity of good loam,
leaf-soil, and sand, in equal proportions; rub it through a
fine sieve, and fill the pans to within one inch of the top,
pressing down the soil moderately firm. After that, put in

a 3 aah

CULTURE OF THE ROSE. 67

the eyes in a leaning or slanting position, pressing them
firmly into the soil with the thumb and finger; taking care
to keep the thumb on the bottom end of the cutting, to
prevent the bark from being injured. After the eyes are
put in, give the pan two or three gentle raps on the bench ;
then put half an inch of silver or clean river sand on the
top, water with a fine rose, and plunge the pans in a nice
bottom heat of say sixty degrees, covering the surface
over with moss to prevent the soil from getting dry: they
will not require any more water for a week or ten days.
The moss should be carefully removed as soon as the
young shoots begin to push through the sand. In three
weeks from that time, the roses will be fit for potting off
into large sixty-sized pots. They should then be placed
in a temperature of seventy degrees, when they will soon
repay the care bestowed on them. I, however, prefer
grafting on the Manetti stock. I grafted a lot in a dor-
mant state seven weeks ago: they are now nice plants,
and will be in bloom by May.”— J. Willis, Oulton Park,

Cheshire.

This mode of propagation is attended with great advan-
tages and great evils. A new or rare rose may be in-
ereased by it more rapidly and surely than by any other

means; while roses of feeble growth on their own roots

68 CULTURE OF THE ROSE.

will often grow and bloom vigorously when budded on a’
strong and congenial stock. On the other hand, the very
existence of a budded rose is, in our severe climate, preca-
rious. A hard winter may kill it down to the point of
inoculation, and it is then lost past recovery; whereas a
rose on its own roots may be killed to the level of the
earth, and yet throw up vigorous shoots in the spring.
Moreover, a budded rose requires more attention than the
cultivator is always willing to bestow on it. An ill-
informed or careless amateur will suffer shoots to grow
from the roots or stem of the stock; and, as these are
always vigorous, they engross all the nourishment, and
leave the budded rose to dwindle or die; while its disap-
pointed owner, ignorant of the true condition of things,
often congratulates himself on the prosperous growth of
his plant. At length he is undeceived by the opening
of the buds, and the appearance of a host of insignificant
single roses in the place of the Giant of Battles or General
Jacqueminot.

Budding, however, cannot be dispensed with, since, in
losing it, we should lose the most effectual means of in-
creasing and distributing the choicest roses. The process
consists in implanting, as it were, an undeveloped leaf-bud,

of the variety we wish to increase, in the bark and wood

CULTURE OF THE ROSE. 69

of some other species of rose. The latter is called the
stock, and it should be of a hardy and vigorous nature.
Two conditions are essential to the process. The first is,
that the bark of the stock will “slip;” in other words, sepa-
rate freely from the wood. The second is, that the rose
to be increased should be furnished with young and sound
leaf-buds in a dormant state. These conditions are best
answered in summer and early autumn, from the first
of July to the middle of September. During the whole of
this period, the sap being in active motion, the bark sepa-
rates freely from the wood, while there is always a supply
of plump and healthy buds on shoots of the same year’s
growth. The only implement necessary is a budding-knife.
The operator should also provide himself with strings of
bass-matting, moistened to make them pliant. Instead
of the bass, cotton-wicking is occasionally used. Cut well-
ripened shoots of the variety to be increased, provided
with plump and healthy buds. In order to prevent ex-
haustion by evaporation from the surface of, the leaves,
these should be at once cut off; leaving, however, about
half an inch of the leaf-stalk’ still attached to the stem.
Insert the knife in the bark of the stem half an inch above
a bud, and then pass it smoothly downward to the distance

of half an inch below the bud, thus removing the latter

7

70 CULTURE OF THE ROSE.

with a strip of bark attached. A small portion of the

wood will also adhere. This may be removed; though this

is not necessary, and is attended with some little risk of

pulling out with it the eye, or vital part, of the bud. Now
place the bud between the lips while you take the next
step of the process. This consists in cutting a vertical,
slit in the bark of the stock. This done, cut a tranverse

slit across the top of the vertical one. Both should be

quite through the bark to the wood below; then, with the

flat handle of the budding-knife, raise the corners of the

bark, and disengage it from the wood sufficiently to allow

of the bud being slipped smoothly into the crevice between

the wood and bark of the stock. Next apply the edge

of the knife to the protruding end of the bark attached to

the bud, and cut it smoothly off immediately over the

tranverse slit in the bark of the stock. The bud is now
adjusted accurately in its place, the overlapping bark clos-
ing neatly around it. Now tie it above and below pretty
firmly with repeated turns of the bass-matting, and the

work is done. It must be remembered, that, to be well

done, it must be quickly done; and it is better to insert the

bud on the north or shady side of the stock.

The bud and the stock will soon begin to grow together.

After a week or two they should be examined, and the tie

CULTURE OF THE ROSE. 71

loosened. If the bud is put in early in the season, it may
be made to grow almost immediately by cutting off the
ends of the growing shoots of the stock, and thus forcing
sap towards the bud. As the bud grows, the stock should
be still further shortened, and all the shoots growing below
the bud should be removed altogether.

Budded stocks require in this country, at least when
the buds are dormant, a protection against the winter.
Where there are but few, oiled paper, or something of a
similar nature, may be tied over the bud as a shelter from
snow, rain, and sun; but, when there are many, this is im-
possible, and the stocks may be taken up, and “heeled”
close together in a dry soil under a shelter of boards and
mats. “Heeling” is merely a temporary planting.

In the following spring, the stocks may be cut off to
within an inch of the bud, and then planted where they
are to remain. When the bud is inserted near the
ground, — which in our climate should always be done, —
the stock should be planted in such a manner that the bud
is a little below the level of the earth. To this end, the
stock should be set in a slanting position in the hole dug
for it; the bud, of course, being uppermost, and about an
‘nch below the level of the edge of the hole: then the
hole should be partially filled in. When the bud has

i ( CULTURE OF THE ROSE.

grown out to the height of six or eight inches, the hole
may be filled altogether. No part of the stock will now
be seen above the earth. By this means, the point of
junction of the stock and the bud is protected from the
cold of winter and the heat of summer, and the rose will
live longer and thrive better than where the stock is
exposed. In many cases, the rose will throw out roots of
its own above its junction with the stock, and thus become
in time a self-rooted plant.

There are two kinds of stocks in common use at the
present time for out-door.roses. One is the Dog Rose, a
variety growing wild in various parts of Europe; the other
is the Manetti Rose, a seedling raised by the Italian culti-
vator whose name it bears. There can be no doubt, that,
of the two, the Manetti is by far the better for this climate.
It is very vigorous, very hardy, easily increased by layers
or cuttings of the ripe wood, and free from the vicious
habit of the Dog Rose, of throwing out long under-ground
suckers. We would by no means say that it will not
throw up an abundance of shoots from the roots if allowed
to do so; but these shoots are easily distinguished by a
practised eye from those of the budded rose. They may be
known at a glance by the peculiar reddish tint of the stem,
and by the shape and the deep glossy hue of the leaves.

CULTURE OF THE ROSE. 73

They must be removed as soon as seen, not by cutting
them off, but by tearing them off under ground, either by
hand if possible, or with the help of a forked stick, which,
pressed strongly into the earth, slips them off.at their junc-
tion with the root.

It cannot be denied that many kinds of roses, budded
low on the Manetti stock, will grow with a vigor, and bloom
with a splendor, which they do not reach on their own
roots, and which will often repay the additional labor
which they exact. We once planted in the manner above
described a strong Manetti stock containing a single bud of
the Hybrid Perpetual Rose,— Triomphe de ?Exposition.
In the September following, it had thrown up a stem with
several branches, the central shoot rising to the height of
six feet and a half, and bearing on its top the largest and
finest blossom we have ever seen of that superb variety.
Some roses, however, will not grow well on the Manetti.
Others, again, can scarcely be grown with advantage in
any other way, refusing to strike root from layers, and
often failing when the attempt is made to root them from
cuttings even of the soft wood. Some, even when rooted,
remain feeble and dwarfish plants; while, if a bud from
them is implanted in a good Manetti stock, it would grow

to a vigorous bush in one season. To sum up, we would

74 CULTURE OF THE ROSE.

say, that, for the amateur, nine roses out of ten are better
on their own roots, while there are a few which can only

be grown successfully, budded on a good stock.

All the evil that can be spoken of budded roses is
doubly true of grafted roses; while the advantages which
the former can claim are possessed in a less degree by the
latter. The reason is, simply, that, in the case of the bud-
ded rose, the junction between the stock and foreign variety
is commonly more perfect than in the case of the grafted
rose. Indeed, it would not be worth while to graft roses
at all, were it not for the fact that grafting can be practised
at times when budding is impossible. This is because it is
indispensable, in budding, that the sap of the stock should
be in full motion; whereas, in grafting, it may be at rest.

There are innumerable modes of grafting; but, for the
rose, the simplest form of what is called “ whip-grafting ”
is perhaps the best. In the end of winter, or at the begin-
ning of spring, take young well-rooted plants of the Ma-
netti stock, having stems not much larger than a quill.
Beginning very near the root, shave off with a sharp

knife a slip of the bark, with a little of the wood, to the

CULTURE OF THE ROSE. 15

length of something more than an inch; then shave down
the lower end of the graft until it fits accurately the part
of the stock whence the bark and wood have been pared
off The essential point is, that the inner bark of the
graft should be in contact with the inner bark of the stock.
When the two are fitted, bind them around with strings
of wet bass-matting. Now plant the stock in a pot, setting
it so deeply, that its point of junction with the graft is
completely covered with soil. Place the pots thus pre-
pared on a gentle hot-bed, and cover them closely with
glass. When the shoots from the graft are well grown
out, give them air by degrees to harden them.

A better way is to pot the stocks early in autumn, so
that they may become well established. In this case, it
will be necessary to cover the junction of the stock and
graft with grafting wax or clay in such a manner as to
exclude all air; then plunge the pots in old tan over a
gentle hot-bed, so deeply that the grafted part is completely
covered, the ends only of the grafts being visible. This
keeps them in an equable heat and moisture. The subse-
quent treatment is the same as in the former case. As the
stock has acquired a hold on the earth of the pot, or is, as
the gardeners express it, “established,” the graft will grow

much more quickly, and make a strong blooming plant the

Same season.

76 CULTURE OF THE ROSE.

In all grafting, whether of roses or other woody plants,
it is necessary that the buds of the graft should be com.
pletely dormant. In the stock, on the other hand, a slight
and partial awakening of the vital action at the time the

graft is put on seems rather beneficial than injurious

In this mode of increasing roses, Nature, rather than the
cultivator, may be said to do the work of propagation.
Many sorts of roses throw out spontaneously long under-
ground stems, from which roots soon issue, and which soon
throw up an abundance of shoots above ground. When
these suckers, as they are called, are separated from the
parent, and planted apart, they make a strong growth, but
rarely form plants so symmetrical as those raised from cut-

tings or layers.

RAISING NEW VARIETIES.—A layer, a cut-
ting, a bud, a graft, and a sucker, are detached portions of
an individual plant; and the plant resulting from them is of
precisely tne same character with the parent. But, when
the seed germinates, it is not the reproduction of the same
individual, but it is the birth of a new one. The offspring
will show a family likeness; but it is by no means probable,
at least in the case of the rose, that its features will be
precisely the same with those of its parent. Plant the
seeds of a rose; as, for example, of the Hybrid Perpetual,
La Reine, and of the resulting seedlings: all will probably
show traces, more or less, of their origin; but the greater

¢art will be far infericr to the parent. Some will be sin-
77

78 CULTURE OF THE ROSE.

gle; many will be half double; and, among a large num-
ber of seedlings, we shall be fortunate if we find two
or three equal in beauty to La Reine herself. Nor is it
at all likely that even these will be her precise counter-
parts. They may possibly be her equals; but they will
not exactly resemble her: and thus we obtain a new and
valuable acquisition to the list of roses. Now, if, instead

of singly gathering and sowing the seeds of La Reine, we

first impregnate its flowers with the pollen of a different —

variety, such as the Giant of Battles, our chance of a val-
uable result is increased, because, if we are fortunate, we
combine the desirable qualities of two sorts. It is not
impossible that we may thus produce a rose combining the
vigorous growth and large globular flowers of La Reine
with some portion of the vivid coloring of the Giant of
Battles. It is by the raising of seedlings with or without
hybridization that the innumerable roses that decorate our
gardens and fill the catalogues of nursery-men have been
produced. M. Laffay, to whom more than to any other
single cultivator we are indebted for bringing into exist-
ence the splendid family of the Hybrid Perpetual roses,
raised in one year more than three hundred thousand
seedlings. Of these, all but a small portion were, no doubt,

pulled up, and thrown away as worthless, after their first

CULTURE OF THE ROSE. 19

blooming; the rest were allowed to stand for further
trial: and if, finally, a score or two of roses really distinct
and valuable were obtained, the year’s culture may have
been regarded as a great success.. It requires a long time
before the character of a seedling-rose can be thoroughly
ascertained. M. Margottin, another eminent rose-grower,
says that no conscientious cultivator will permit a seedling
to pass out of his hands until he has given it a six-years’
trial.

The raising of roses from seed is an occupation of so
much interest, that few who have fairly entered upon it
have ever willingly abandoned it. Many choice roses
have been raised by amateurs; and those who have the
time and means to enter on a large or a small scale upon
this pursuit will find it a source of abundant enjoyment.
In the next chapter, we shall point out the combinations
from which the existing classes of Hybrid roses have
sprung; and hereafter, when we come to the description of
these classes, we shall add a few suggestions as to other
combinations likely to produce good results.

Some roses bear seed freely, while others can hardly be
induced to bear it at all. The hybridizer should take note
of their peculiarities in this respect, or he will throw away

much labor and patience; for it is a thankless task to -

80 CULTURE OF THE ROSE.

hybridize a rose, which, after all the labor spent upon it, wili
not produce a single seed-vessel. Fortunately, many of
the best roses bear seed abundantly; and La Reine, Gene-
ral Jacqueminot, Jules .Margottin, Madame Laffay, and
many others as good as these, may confidently be relied on.
It is a good rule, that no seedling-rose is worth preserv-
ing, or at least worth propagating, that is not, in some one
point, superior to or distinct from any other rose existing.

Roses should be hybridized immediately after they open,
or they will become thoroughly fertilized with their own
pollen, and the object of the operation will thus be defeat-
ed. The best time of the day is about ten o’clock in the
morning, as soon as the sun has dried the dew from the
centre of the flower. The pollen of the rose whose quali-
ties it is wished to impart may be applied to the pistils of
the maternal or seed-bearing flower with a camel’s-hair
pencil; or one rose may be held over the other, and tapped
with the finger till the pollen falls upon the pistils of. the
seed-bearer. Roses are uncertain as to the production of
pollen. In some seasons and some situations it is abun-
dant, while in others it is produced very scantily. The
impregnated roses may be marked by strings or labels

tied to their stems. The seed should not be gathered till

the first frost; and, to insure its ripening. the plant should »

CULTURE OF THE ROSE. $1

stand in a warm, sunny exposure. The pods should be
laid in the sun to dry, then broken up, and the seed sepa-
rated by means of a sieve.

We have found the following mode of sowing a.success-

ful one: A frame —a shallow hot-bed frame answers per-
fectly — should be prepared by making within it a bed of
loam, old manure, leaf-mould, and sand, at least eighteen
inches deep. These materials should be thoroughly mixed,
and the surface layer for an inch or two in depth sifted
through a moderately coarse sieve, and then levelled and
smoothed. The seeds may be sown broadeast; that is to
say, scattered over the surface. They may be sown thickly,
as not a third part will germinate; and, when sown, they
should be pressed firmly into the soil with a board or the
back of a’ spade. Then the same soil should be sifted over
them to the depth of half an inch, and pressed down very
lightly. Some will prefer to sow them in drills, which
should be about six inches apart; the seed in no case being
more than half an inch deep. Now leave the frame open,
and exposed to rain and frost. Just before the heavy
snows begin, and when the whole is hard frozen, cover it
with boards and mats, that it may remain frozen till
spring. The object of this is’ to protect the seeds from

« mice, which are exceedingly fond of them. When the

82 CULTURE OF THE ROSE.

mild weather begins, open the frame, and allow the ground
to thaw: keeping, however, a close watch upon them; for,
though these depredators like to do their work under
cover and in darkness, there is still some little danger of
their attacks. As the soil warms, the seeds will begin to
come up. Some of the ever-blooming roses may blossom
the first season; but the Hardy June kinds will not show
bloom before the third, or even the fourth year. If the
plants are too crowded, pull up some of them when the
ground is softened after a rain, and plant them in a bed by
themselves. In the autumn, take them all up, and heel
them in a mouse-proof frame for safe keeping through the
winter. In the spring, plant them out in rich soil, a foot
apart. They might, indeed, be wintered safely in the frame
where they originally grew: but this is attended with one
disadvantage; for many of the seeds will not germinate
till the second year; and, in removing the plants at that
time, these infant seedlings would be destroyed ; whereas,
by leaving them undisturbed, a second crop may be ob-
tained. Care must be taken throughout to keep the frame
free from weeds.

The eminent English rose-grower, Mr. Rivers, recom-
mends a method of raising seedlings, which we have not

tried, but which we have no doubt is a good one, though

=

CULTURE OF THE ROSE. 83

not applicable to raising them on a large scale. We give
his directions in his own words :—

“The hips of all the varieties of roses will, in general, be
fully ripe by the beginning of November: they should
then be gathered, and kept entire in a flower-pot filled
with dry sand, carefully guarded from mice. In February,
or by the first week in March, they must be broken to
pieces with the fingers, and sown in flower-pots, such as
are generally used for sowing seeds in, called ‘seed-pans ;’
but, for rose-seeds, they should not be too shallow: nine
inches in depth will be enough. These should be nearly,
but not quite, filled with a rich compost of rotten manure,
and sandy loam or peat. The seeds may be covered to the
depth of about half an inch with the same compost. A
piece of kiln-wire must then be placed over the pot, fitting
closely at the rim, so as to prevent the ingress of mice,
which are passionately fond of rose-seeds. There must be
space enough between the wire and the mould for the
young plants to come up: half an inch will probably be
found enough. The pots of seed must never be placed
under glass, but kept constantly in the open air, in a full
sunny exposure, as the wire will shade the mould, and
prevent its drying. Water should be given occasionally
in dry weather. The young plants will perhaps make theiz
appearance in April or May; but very often the seed will
not vegetate till the second spring. When they have

=made their ‘rough leaves, that is, when they have three

84 CULTURE OF THE ROSE.

or four leaves, exclusive of their seed-leaves, they must be
earefully raised with the point of a narrow pruning-knife,
potted into small pots, and placed’ in the shade: if the
weather be very hot and dry, they may be covered with a
hand-glass for a few days. They may remain in those
pots a month, and then be planted out into a rich border:
by the end of August, those that are robust growers will
have made shoots long enough to take buds from. Those
that have done so may be cut down, and one or two
strong stocks budded with each: these will, the following
summer, make vigorous shoots; and the summer following,
if left unpruned, to a certainty they will produce flowers.
This is the only method to insure seedling roses flowering
the third year: many will do so that are not budded; but ?
very often the superior varieties are shy bloomers on their
own roots, till age and careful culture give them strength.

“Tt may be mentioned here, as treatment applicable to
all seed-bearing roses, that, when it is desirable the qualities
of a favorite rose should preponderate, the petals of the
flower to be fertilized must be opened gently with the
fingers.* A flower that will expand in the morning should

* “Tt requires some watchfulness to do this at the proper time: if too
soon, the petals will be injured in forcing them open ; and in hot weather,
in July, if delayed only an hour or two, the anthers will be found to
have shed their pollen. To ascertain precisely when the pollen is ina
fit state for transmission, a few of the anthers should be gently pressed
with the finger and thumb: if the yellow dust adheres to them, the oper-
ation may be performed. It requires close examination and some practice

CULTURE OF THE ROSE. 5

be opened the afternoon or evening previous, and the
anthers all removed with a pair of pointed scissors: the
following morning, when this flower is fully expanded, it
must be fertilized with a flower of some variety, of which
it is desired to have seedlings partaking largely of its
qualities. To exemplify this, we will suppose that a
climbing Moss Rose with red or crimson flowers is wished
for. The flowers of the Blush Ayrshire, which bears seed
abundantly, may be selected, and, before expansion, the
anthers removed. The following morning, or as soon after
the operation as these flowers open, they should be fertil-
ized with those of the Luxembourg Moss. If the operation
succeed, seeds will be procured, from which the probability
is that a climbing rose will be produced with the habit

to know when the flower to be operated upon is in a fit state to receive
the pollen: as a general rule, the flowers ought to be in the same state
of expansion; or, in other words, about the same age. It is only in
cases where it is wished for the qualities of a particular rose to predomi-
nate that the removal of the anthers of the rose to be fertilized is neces-
sary: thus, if a yellow climbing rose is desired by the union of the
Yellow Brier with the Ayrshire, every anther should be removed from the
latter, so that it is fertilized solely with the pollen of the former. In
some cases, where it is desirable to have the qualities of both parents in
an equal degree, the removal of the anthers need not take place: thus I
have found by removing them from the Luxembourg Moss, and fertil-
izing that rose with a dark variety of Rosa Gallica, that the features of
the Moss Rose are totally lost in its offspring, and they become nearly
pure varieties of Rosa Galliea; but if the anthers of the Moss Rose are
left untouched, and it is fertilized with Rosa Gallica, interesting hybrids
are the result, more or less mossy. This seems to make superfetation
very probable; yet Dr. Lindley, in ‘Theory of Horticulture,’ p. 332,
‘thinks it is not very likely to occur.’ ”

86 CULTURE OF THE ROSE.

and flowers of the Moss Rose, or at least an approximation
to them; and as these hybrids often bear seed freely, by
repeating the process with them, the at present apparent
remote chance of getting a climbing Moss Rose may be
brought very near.

‘“T mention the union of the Moss and Ayrshire roses by
way of illustration, and merely to point out to the amateur
how extensive and how interesting a field of operations is
open in this way. I ought to give a fact that has occurred
in my own experience, which will tell better with the
sceptical than a thousand anticipations. About four years
since, in a pan of seedling Moss roses was one with a
most peculiar habit, even when very young: this has since
proved a hybrid rose, partaking much more of the Scotch

nose than of any other, and, till the plant arrived at full
growth, I thought it a Scotch rose, the seed of which had
by accident been mixed with that of the Moss Rose, al-
though I had taken extreme care. To my surprise, it has
since proved a perfect hybrid, having the sepals and the
fruit of the Provence Rose, with the spiny and dwarf habit
of the Scotch Rose: it bears abundance of hips, which are
all abortive.* The difference in the fruit of the Moss and
Provence roses and that of the Scotch is very remark-
able, and this it was which drew my particular attention

* “Tt is more than probable, that, if the flowers of this rose were fertil-
ized with those of the single Moss Rose, they would produce seed from
which some curious hybrid Moss roses might be expected.”

CULTURE OF THE ROSE. 87

to the plant in question. It was raised from the same seed
and in the same seed-pan as the Single Crimson Moss Rose.
As this strange hybrid came from a Moss Rose, accidental-

ly fertilized, we may expect that art will do much more for
”

harowgaatses CMM Rass

Some of the more hardy kinds of climbing roses, as, for

us.

example, the Queen of the Prairies, may be induced to
wear borrowed robes, and assume beauties beyond those
with which Nature endowed them. At the proper season,
they may be budded here and there with some of the
most hardy and vigorous of the June and Hybrid Perpet-
ual roses. As these varieties bloom earlier than the
Prairie roses, the period of bloom of the climber will be
greatly protracted by this process, while at the same time
it will be made to bear flowers incomparably finer in form
and color than its own. It will be necessary, however, in
our Northern climate, to protect it by nailing mats over it,
since otherwise many of the buds will be winter-killed;
and, as it is expected to yield more than its natural share
of bloom, it should be stimulated with more than the usual
manuring, and pruned more closely than the ordinary

climbing roses.

88 CULTURE OF THE ROSE.

We have before spoken of the difficulty of cultivating
standard roses, or roses budded on tall stems, in our cli-

mate. It is possible, however, to produce a kind of stan-

dard without a resort to budding. We may choose some

of the most hardy and vigorous of the June roses,— we
may find such especially in the class known as the Hybrid
Chinas, — and encourage the growth of a single, strong,
upright stem, removing all other shoots from the base of the
plant as fast as they appear. The stem should be kept
straight by tying it to a stick till it has gained strength
enough to hold itself erect. Thus, in a single season, we
shall have, with some varieties, a stem five or six feet high.
Early in spring, prune it down to the first healthy and
plump bud. During the following season, allow no shoots
to develop themselves, except at the top; and, in the suc-
ceeding spring, prune back these top-shoots to two or three
eyes. All of these eyes will, in their turn, develop into
shoots; and these, again, are to be pruned back like the
first. Thus,in two or three seasons, we obtain a thick
bushy head at the top of a tall upright stem; in short, a

standard, capable of bearing even a New-England winter.

CULTURE OF THE ROSE. 89

yr IF # . Ad if 74 CY Fr ote
RYOSU NUS OW
Pg Oso as ee Gah IOTKAS:

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EE SSUORS of

It is always better to prepare beds for roses in the
autumn, that they may have the benefit of a thorough ex-
posure to the winter frost. With this view, the soil should
be thrown up into ridges as roughly as possible. It will
then be thoroughly frozen through, and subjected to all
the changes of temperature during the season. This will
not only tend to destroy worms and noxious insects, but
it will separate the particles of the soil, and leave it light
and pliable. Soil thrown into ridges can also be worked
earlier in the spring than that which is left at its natural
Jevel.

The cardinal points of successful rose-culture are a good
soil, good pruning, and good cultivation. By cultivation,
we mean a repeated digging, hoeing, or forking of the
earth around the plants, by which the surface is kept open,
and enabled freely to receive the dew, rain, and air, with
its fertilizing gases. Plants so treated will suffer far le.s
in a drought than if the soil had been left undisturbed ;
for not only will it now absorb the dew at night, bui it

will freely permit the moisture which always exist: at

90 CULTURE OF THE ROSE.

certain depths below the surface to rise, and benefit the
thirsty roots. For a similar reason, the process of sub-
soiling, or trenching, by which the earth is loosened and
stirred to a great depth, is exceedingly beneficial to roses,
since the lower portions of the disturbed soil are a maga-
zine of moisture which the severest drought cannot
exhaust.

With newly-planted roses it is well to practise “ mulch-
ing” with manure ; or, in other words, to place manure on
the surface around the roots of the plants. This keeps the
ground moist and open, while every rain washes down a

portion of nutriment to the roots.

Roses may be planted in clumps, on the lawn, with far
better effect than when arranged in formal beds. They
may be separated according to their classes, as June roses,
Bourbons, Hybrid Perpetuals, Mosses, &c.; and the effect
will be vastly better, if, instead of mingling colors indis-
sriminately, each is placed by itself. Thus the pure white
of Madame Plantier will form a rich contrast with the

de+p crim3cn of General Jacqueminot, the vivid rose of

a

CULTURE OF THE ROSE. 91

Jules Margottin, the clear flesh-color of Ville de Bruxelles,
and the pale rose of Baronne Prévost, each massed by
itself; while all these varied hues are beautifully relieved
by the fresh | green of a well-kept lawn with its surround-

ing trees and shrubbery.

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pete)

LLKL ALL things living, in the world of mind or
of matter, the rose is beautified, enlarged, and strength-
ened by a course of judicious and persevering culture,

continued through successive generations. The art of hor-

ticulture is no leveller. Its triumphs are achieved by rigid

systems of selection and rejection, founded always on the
broad basis of intrinsic worth. The good cultivator propa-
gates no plants but the best. He carefully chooses those
marked out by conspicuous merit ; protects them from the
pollen of inferior sorts; imtermarries them, perhaps, with
other varieties of equal vigor and beauty; saves their seed,

and raises from it another generation. From the new
95

96 DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE.

plants thus obtained he again chooses the best, and re-
peats with them the same process. Thus the rose and
other plants are brought slowly to their perfect develop-
ment. Itisin vain to look for much improvement by mere-
ly cultivating one individual. Culture alone will not make
a single rose double, or a dull rose brilliant. We cultivate
the parent, and look for our reward in the offspring.

The village maiden has a beauty and a charm of her
own; and so has her counterpart in the floral world, — the
wild rose that grows by the roadside. Transplanted to
the garden, and, with its offspring after it to the fourth
and fifth generation, made an object of skilful culture, it
reaches at last a wonderful development. The flowers
which in the ancestress were single and small become
double in the offspring, and expand their countless petals
to the sun in all the majesty of the Queen of Flowers.
The village maid has risen to regal state. She has lost
her native virgin charm; but she sits throned and crowned
in imperial beauty.

Now, all the roses of our gardens have some wild an-
cestress of the woods and meadows, from whom, in the
process of successive generations, their beauties have been
developed, sometimes by happy accidents, but oftener by

design. Thus have arisen families of roses, cack marked

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. 97

with traces of its parentage. These are the patricians of
the floral commonwealth, gifted at once with fame, beau-
ty, and rank.

The various wild roses differ greatly in their capacity
of improvement and development. In some cases, the off-
spring grow rapidly, in color, fulness, and size, with every
successive generation. In other cases, they will not im-
prove at all; and the rose remains a wild rose still, good
only for the roadside. With others yet, there seems to be
a fixed limit, which is soon reached, and where improve-
ment stops. It requires, even with the best, good culture
and selection through several generations before the high-
est result appears. In horticulture, an element of stability
is essential to progress. When the florist sees in any rose
a quality which he wishes to develop and perfect, he does
not look for success to the plant before him, but to the
offspring which he produces from this plant. “But this
production and culture must be conducted wisely and
skilfully, or the offspring will degenerate instead of im-
proving.

There are different kinds of culture, with different
effects. That which is founded in the laws of Nature, and
aims ai a universal development, produces for its result

not orly increased beauty, but increased symmetry,
7

98 DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE.

strength, and vitality. On the other hand, it is in the
power of the skilful florist to develop or to repress what-
ever quality he may please. By artificial processes of
eulture, roses have been produced, beautiful in form and
color, but so small, that the whole plant, it is said, might
be covered with an egg-shell. These are results of the
ingenious florists of China and Japan. The culture that
refines without invigorating, belongs, it seems, to a par-
tial or perverted civilization.

These several families of roses, resulting from the devel-
opment of the several species of wild rose, have. mingled
together; in other words, they have intermarried: for
Linnzus has shown that “the loves of the flowers” are
more than a conceit of poetical fancy. From the fertiliza-
tion of the flowers of a rose of one family with the pollen
of a rose of another family arises a mixed offspring, called
hybrids. Seeds—- which are vegetable eggs—are first
produced; and these seeds germinate, or hatch, into a
brood of young plants, combining in some degree the
qualities of their parents. As this process of intermixture
may be carried on indefinitely, a vast number of new vari-
eties has resulted from it. :

The botanical classificatioy of the rose is a perplexity to

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. 99

botanists. Its garden classification — quite another mat-
ter —is no less a source of embarrassment to its amateur,
not to say professional, cultivator. To many, indeed, its
entire nomenclature is a labyrinth of confusion; and some
have gone to the length of proposing to abolish distinc-
tions, which, in their eyes, seem arbitrary or fanciful. These
distinctions, however, are founded in Nature, though the
superstructure built upon her is sometimes flimsy enough
to justify the impatience of its assailants. The chief diffi-
culty arises from the extent to which the hybridization
of the rose has been carried, and the vast entanglement of
combinations which has resulted. Out of a propensity to
classify, where, in the nature of things, precise classification
is impossible, has arisen the equivocal and shadowy char-
acter of many of the nominal distinctions.

Omitting less important divisions, the following are the
groups into which cultivated roses are ordinarily divided:
The Provence,* the Moss,* the French,* the Hybrid China,
the Damask,* the Alba,* the Austrian Brier,* the Sweet-
brier,* the Scotch,* the Double Yellow,* the Ayrshire,*
the Sempervirens,* the Multiflora,* the Boursault,* the
Banksia,* the Prairie.* These bloom once in the season.

The following are perpetual or remontant: The China,*

100 DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE.

the Tea,* the Bourbon, the Hybrid Perpetual, the Perpet-
ual Moss, the Damask Perpetual,* the Noisette, the
Musk,* the Macartney,* the Microphylla.*

Some of the above are marked with a star*: these are
roses of pure blood. The rest are roses of mixed or hybrid
origin. By the former are meant those which have sprung,
without intermixture, from the wild roses which grew
naturally in various parts of the world, and which are the
only roses of which the botanical classifier takes cogni-
zance. Many of them are of great beauty, and would be
highly prized for ornamental uses, were they not eclipsed
by the more splendid double varieties, which the industry
of the florist has developed from them. Each of these
groups of unmixed roses, however modified in form, size,
or color, retains, as already mentioned, distinctive features
of the native type from which it sprang. Yet it often
happens that the name is misapplied. Thus a rose called
Damask is not always a Damask, but a hybrid between
a Damask and some other variety. The true distinctive

features of the group are thus rendered, in some nominal

members of it, so faint, that they can scarcely be recog- —

nized. Leaving these bastards out of view, we will con-
sider at present only the legitimate offspring of the various

families of the rose.

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. 101

On Mount Caucasus grows a single wild rose, from the

seeds of which have sprung the numerous family of the

Provence or Cabbage roses, very double, very large, and
very fragrant. This race is remarkable for its tendency
to sport, from which have resulted some of the most sin-
gular and beautiful forms of the rose. For example, a
rose-colored variety of the Provence produced a branch
bearing striped flowers, and from that branch has been
propagated the Striped Provence. The Crested Moss is
the product of another of these freaks, being of the pure
Provence race. The Common Moss, and all its progeny,
have the same origin; being derived, in all probability,
from a sporting branch of one of the Provence roses.
The family of the French: Rose, or Rosa Gallica, is of
vast extent, and, though including many diverse shades
of color,— some pale, some bright, others spotted, striped,
or marbled,— is commonly recognized without much diffi-

culty by its family features. It is a native of Southern

_ Europe.

The wild progenitor of the Damask or Damascus roses
is a native of Syria. The name Damask, by the way, is
popularly applied to deep-colored roses in general ; but its
floral signification is very different. In this group, for the

first time, we meet with a feature, which, desirable as it is,

x6 need ss

102 DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE.

was not many years since regarded as rare and exceptional.
June has always been regarded as the month of the rose;
but some of the Damasks have the peculiarity of blooming
twice, or more than twice, during the season. These have
been placed in a group by. themselves, and christened
Damask Perpetuals. The remontant character, however,
is not confined to them; for individual plants belonging
to groups and variettes which usually bloom but once
will sometimes display an autumnal bloom. Thus the
common wild rose of New England is now and then to be
seen covered with flowers in September; and there is littie
doubt, that, from the seeds of these twice-blooming individ-
uals, a new race of hardy remontant roses might be pro-
duced. It should be added, that many of the so-called
Damask Perpetuals are not pure Damask, but crossed
with the blood of other families.

Of the remaining races of pure blood, the Alba is
remarkable for the delicate coloring of its flowers ; the
_ greater part being, as the name imports, white, or nearly
so. The original variety grows wild in Central Europe.

The Austrian Brier is another family, of features very
strongly marked. Yellow and copper are its prevailing
colors; and from its habit of growth, and the color of its |

twigs, it is easily recognized under all its forms. Its origi- _

a

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. 103

nal types are natives of the south of Europe, and probably

of Persia; to which country we owe its finest develop-

ment, — the well-known Persian Yellow.

The Double Yellow Rose, Rosa Sulphurea, remarkable
for its beauty, and, in our climate, notorious for its intracta-
ble and uncertain character, is regarded by some botanists.
as belonging to a group distinct from the preceding. The
Single Yellow, from which it must have sprung, has been
found wild in the north of India.

The Sweet-brier, found wild in various parts of the
world, is too well known to need further notice. The
American variety differs distinctly from the European.

The Scotch roses owe their origin to the dwarf wild
rose of Scotland. The Ayrshire is a family of climbing
roses, originating from the wild trailing rose, Rosa Arven-
sis, common in the British islands. The best of them are
said, however, to be hybrids between this rose and other
species. The Boursault roses are descendants of Rosa
Alpina, a native of the Alps; and no family is more clearly

marked by distinctive features. The Sempervirens and

the Maltiflora are, with us at least, less familiar. Both are

i ae

climbers, like the former; the one originating from a wild
rose of Italy, the other from a wild rose of Japan. The

Banksia, with its smooth, shining leaves, and slender, green

104 DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE.

stems, is well known in every greenhouse. Its progenitor

is a native of China or Tartary, and the improved varieties _

are chiefly due to the labors of Chinese florists.

There is another race of climbers, held in great scorn by
foreign florists, but admirably adapted to our climate,
under whose influences they put forth beauties by no
means contemptible. These are the progeny of the wild
Michigan or Prairie Rose, rampant growers, and generally
sturdy enough to outface our hardest winters. The best
of them, however, the Baltimore Belle, is evidently the
offspring of a foreign marriage, which, while contributing
fragrance and beauty to the rugged race of the prairies,
has detracted something from its hardihood. The union,
probably accidental, seems to have been with the Tea Rose
or the Noisette.

Of the foregoing groups, all except the Damask Perpet-
ual are once-blooming. The following have, to a greater
or less extent, the desirable character of a continued or
successive bloom.

The Macartney Rose is a wild rose of China, from which
a few improved varieties have been raised from seed. Its
evergreen shining foliage is its most attractive feature.
The Microphylla, or Small-leaved Rose, is closely akin to
the Macartney, and, like the latter, is a native of the Hast.

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. 105

The Musk is a rose much more familiarly known. It

descends from a Persian or Syrian progenitor, and its

vigorous growth, rich clusters of bloom, and peculiar —_

fragrance, have long made it a favorité. But by far the
most interesting and valuable among the unmixed raccs
of ever-blooming roses are the numberless offspring of
Rosa Indica, in its several varieties. To it we owe all the
China and Tea-scented roses, while to its foreign alliances
we are indebted for a vast and increasing host of brilliant
hybrids.

Thus, from the families of pure blood, we come at length
to those in which is mingled that of two or more distinct
races. Convey the pollen of a China rose to the stigmas
of a French, Damask, or Provence rose, and from the
resulting seed an offspring arises different from either

parent. Hence anew group of roses known as the Hybrid

Chinas. The parents are both of moderate growth. The

offspring is usually of such vigor as to form with readiness
a pillar eight feet high. Its foliage is distinct, its bloom
often as profuse and brilliant as that of the China, and its
constitution as hardy, or nearly so, as that of the French
Rose. Unlike the former, it blooms but once in the year,
or only in a few exceptional instances shows a straggling

autumnal flower. By a vicious system of subdivision, the

—>

106 DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE.

group has been separated into Hybrid China, Hybrid Bour-
bon, and Hybrid Noisette. The two latter are the same
as the first: except, in the one case, a slight infusion of the
Damask Perpetual; and, in the latter, of the Musk Rose.
In many cases, no human discernment could detect the
effects of the admixture.

Again: convey the pollen of the China or Tea Rose to
_the flowers of the Musk, or vice versa ; and for a result we
obtain the Noisette, inheriting from the former various
striking characteristics of foliage and bloom, and from the

latter its vigorous climbing habit and clustering inflores-

cence. But, by impregnation through several generations,

some of the Noisettes retain so little of their Musk parent,
that its traits are almost obliterated: they no longer bloom
in clusters, and can scarcely be distinguished from the
pure Tea Rose.

Again: a union of a Damask Perpetual with a China
rose has produced a distinct race, of vigorous habit and
peculiar foliage, possessing in a high degree the ever-
blooming character of both its parents. It is hardier than
the China Rose, though usually unable to bear a New-Eng-
land winter unprotected. This is the Bourbon Rose, a
brilliant and beautiful group, worth all the care which in

this latitude its out-door culture requires.

a

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. 107

The Moss Rose, impregnated with various ever-blooming
varieties, has borne hybrids partially retaining the mossy
stem and calyx, with a tendency more or less manifest to
bloom in the autumn. Hence the group of the Perpetual
Moss, a few only of whose members deserve the name.

It is evident, that, by continuing the process of hybrid-
izing, hybrids may be mixed with hybrids, till the blood

of half a score of the original races is mingled in one

plant.. This, in some cases, is, without doubt, actually the
case; and this bastard progeny must, of necessity, be

classified rather by its visible characteristics than by its

parentage. ‘Thus a host of ever-blooming hybrids, which
are neither Noisette nor Bourbon nor Perpetual Moss,
have been cast into one grand group, under the compre-
hensive title of Hybrid Perpetuals. Whence have they
sprung? What has been their parentage? The question
is easier asked than answered: for as, in a great nation of
the West, one may discern the lineaments and hear the
accents of diverse commingled races; so here we may trace
the features of many and various families of Indian or
Siberian, Chinese or European, extraction. The Hybrid
Perpetuals, however, inherit their remontant character
chiefly from Rosa Indica, — the China or Tea Rose,— and,

in a far less degree, from the Damask Perpetual. An inft-

108 DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE.

sion of the former exists, in greater or less degree, in all
of them; while the blood of the Damask Perpetual shows
its traces in comparatively few. Many of the group are
the results of a union between the Hybrid China roses
and some variety of the China or Tea. Others owe their
origin to the Hybrid China and the Bourbon, both parents
being hybrids of Rosa Indica. Others are offspring of the
Hybrid China crossed with the Damask Perpetual; while

many spring from intermarriages within the group itself, —

Hybrid Perpetual with Hybrid Perpetual. :
By some over-zealous classifiers, this group has been cut
up into various subdivisions, as Bourbon Perpetual, Rose
de Rosoméne, and the like; a procedure never sufficiently
to be deprecated, as tending to produce no results but per-
plexity and confusion. Where there can be no definite
basis of division, it is well to divide as little as may be;
and it is to be hoped that secession from the heterogeneous
commonwealth of the Hybrid Perpetuals will be effect-
ually repressed. In regard to roses in general, while a
classification founded on evident natural affinities is cer-
tainly desirable, yet, in the name of common sense, let us
avoid the multiplication of new hybrid groups, founded on
- flimsy distinctions, and christened with new names, which

begin with meaning little, and end with meaning nothing.

a a

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. 109

In our enumeration:of the families and varieties of the
rose, we shall make two great divisions, — that of the
“Summer,” or once-blooming, and that of the “ Autum-

” roses. In each of these divis-

nal,” or “ ever-blooming
ions, we shall place first the roses of unmixed race, and,
after them, the hybrids which have sprung from their com-

binations.

THESE ARE roses which bloom but once in’ the
year; hence they have lost favor of late: for superb families
of roses, fully equal in beauty, if not in hardiness, and en-
dowed with an enviable power of renewing or perpetuating
their charms, — of smiling in October as well as in June,
and glowing in full effulgence even on the edge of winter,
—have dazzled us into a forgetfulness of our ancient fa-
vorites.

Yet all the poetry of the rose belongs to these old
roses of summer. It is they that bloomed in white
and red in the rival shields of York and Lancaster;

and it is they that, time out of mind, have been the
110

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. 111

silent interpreters of hearts too full to find a ruder utter-
ance.
For the rest, they are, in the main, very hardy, very

easy of culture, and often very beautiful.

Rosa Centifolia.— This is the family of the old, wel!-
known, and deservedly admired Cabbage Rose. Its ances-
tors, as we have seen, grew on Mount Caucasus; thous)
some have supposed that it is a native of the south of
France: hence the name Provence, by which it is often
known in England, though it is never so designated in
France. The French, translating its Latin name, Rosa
Centifolia, or the Hundred-leaved Rose, commonly call
it Rose 4 Cent Feuilles. It is supposed to have been
known to the Romans, and to have been one of their
favorite roses; and it was introduced into England before
the end of the sixteenth century, where at least, until
these latter days, it has been greatly admired and _ prized.
Recently, however, the introduction of the families of
hardy, ever-blooming roses, has thrown the Cabbage and
all its compeers into the shade. Nevertheless, it is one of

the most desirable of flowers; and even those who are dis-

Lt? DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE.

posed to pass it by with slight regard will never deny that
some of the progeny which have arisen from it are unsur-
passed in beauty and attractiveness. It is remarkable
among roses for the singular changes, in horticultural lan-
cuage called “sports,” which it has assumed, and which,
among other results, have given rise to the entire family
of Moss roses, of which we shall speak in the next section.

The prevailing colors in this group are light. The
Cabbage Rose is a somewhat weak grower in a heavy soil,
though in a light soil it grows vigorously. As a general
rule, it needs close pruning. The members of the family
are numerous; but, besides the Old Cabbage, the following
are the best: The Durcu Provence is remarkable for the
size of its flowers, in which respect it even surpasses the
Old Cabbage. The Unique Provence is probably a sport
from the Old Cabbage ; that is to say, an accidental varia-
tion of the flowers on some particular branch; which branch
being. propagated, the accidental features become perma-

nent. The Unique Provence, which is pure white, has, in its

turn, produced another sport, called the Srrrpep Uniqux,

the flowers being white, striped with lake; though they -

are very capricious in their coloring, sometimes opening
pure white, and occasionally light rose. But amore re-

markable sport of the Provence is the variety called the

—_ —-_ , Se ee

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. Be

CrestED Provence, Rosa Cristara, or, very commonly
among us, the CresteD Moss. It is not, however, a true
‘Moss, as its stems are smooth. Its peculiarity consists in a
curious and very beautiful mossy growth about the calyx.
This growth is developed in proportion to the vigor of the
plant: therefore it should be strongly manured and closely
pruned, as should the whole race of Provence roses. Api-
LINE, the Duc pE Cuor1sEvt, the STaDTHOLDER, and, above
all, the REINE DE PROVENCE, are beautiful varieties of this
group. To it also belong a sub-group of Miniature or
Pompone roses, well suited for edging beds. They bloom
early, and are exceedingly pretty and graceful. Among
the best of them are the Wuitrr Bureunpy, the Dwarr
Bureunpy, Dre Mravx, and Spone.

The above are all old roses; for it is rarely that a culti-
vator of the present day will give himself the trouble to
raise new varieties of any of the June roses, excepting

always the Mosses, which can never be out of favor.

Rosa Centifolia Muscosa.— We have spoken of the
tendency of the Provence Rose to “sport.” The most

widely known and the most beautiful of the results arising
>

114 DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE.

from this tendency is the Moss Rose and its varieties; for
that such is the true origin of this unique family, there can
be very little doubt. There is, however, no record of the
first appearance of the Moss Rose. The original type of
the race — the Old Red Moss — was introduced into Eng-
land as early as 1596. It came immediately from Holland,
but seems not to have originated there: indeed, to this
day, we have remained in doubt as to whence it drew its

birth. Of the large number of Moss roses now on the

lists of nursery-men, some owe their origin to sporting

branches, others to seed. Of the plants arising from the
seed of a Moss rose, not more than one in three will
show the characteristic of the parent; that is, the “moss :”
the rest will be mere varieties of the Provence Rose.
Sometimes a Moss rose will put forth a branch perfectly
_ free from the mossy covering.

In cold, heavy soils, Moss roses are somewhat difficult
of cultivation; but in a light, rich loam, and a sunny expo-
sure, free from roots of growing trees, they thrive luxuri
antly. They all require high enrichment. All excepting
the strongest growers should be closely pruned ; and, in
the Northern States, it is well to give them protection in

winter by means of pine-boughs, or by laying them down

like raspberries.

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. 115

Here, as in other classes of the rose, the hybridist has
been at work. By impregnating Moss roses with the
pollen of some of the ever-blooming sorts, a group of Per-
petual Mosses has been produced. These have, to a
greater or less extent, the ever-blooming quality; but this
is acquired at some sacrifice of the peculiar beauty of the

moss. They will receive a separate notice. Again: these

roses have been fertilized with the pollen of the Hybrid
China Rose; and the result is a Moss rose, remarkably
vigorous in growth, and particularly well suited to form
pillars. Any, however, of the more vigorous Mosses may
be used for this purpose, provided always that they
receive the highest culture in a warm and open exposure.
We have it on the authority of the well-known English
rose-grower, Mr. Paul, that, in the garden of an amateur
near Cheshunt, there is a pillar of the Old Red Moss
fifteen feet high!

At the present day, when the annual progeny of new
Perpetual roses from the nurseries of France, with a hum-
ble re-enforcement from those of England, has eclipsed
by numbers the old garden favorites, the well-remembered
roses of our infancy, the Moss alone stands in tranquil
defiance of this gay tide of innovation. Nothing can

eclipse and nothing can rival her. She is, and ever will ,

116 DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE.

be, the favorite of poetry and art; and the eloquence of
her opening buds, half wrapped in their mossy envelope,
will remain through all generations a chosen interpreter of
the language of youth and beauty.

Autce Le Roy is a distinct and beautiful rose, very
large, full, and mossy; color, lilac and rose; form, cupped:
it grows vigorously. ANG#LIQUE QuziTIER is also of a
rosy-lilac hue, large, very double, and very mossy: it grows
freely, like the former. The Brusu Moss is of growth
somewhat more moderate: the flower is large and full, the
foliage fine, and stems and buds well mossed; color, clear
pale pink. CzrELiINA« is of a deep, rosy crimson, sometimes
verging to purple. The Common, or Otp Moss, is still
one of the most beautiful of the whole family. Its flowers
are large and full, and of a pale rose-color and globular
form. It is more abundantly mossed than most of its
progeny; and none of them surpass it, indeed very few
equal it, in the beauty of its half-opened bud. Its growth |
is tolerably vigorous, and foliage fine. Lanett is a vigor-
ous and beautiful rose; flowers large, full, and globular;
color, a light rosy-crimson. The buds are large, full, and
well mossed; its growth is vigorous; and, under good cul-
tivation, the whole plant, with its large and bright-green

foliage, bears a striking appearance of thrift and health.

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. 117

LuxEemsBovre is of a deep crimson, moderately double, and

of growth nearly as vigorous as the last, with which the
deep hue of its buds forms a striking contrast. Matvina
is a good rose, with clusters of pink flowers. EcLaTANTE
is of a deep pink, large, double, and well mossed. Com-
TESSE DE Murtinais is one of the best of the White
Mosses. Its flowers, though not so double as the Old
Moss, are large, and of the purest white; and the growth
is very vigorous. The Crmson or TINWELL Moss some-
what belies its name; for its flowers are rather of a deep
rose than crimson. It is, however, a beautiful variety.
Princess ADELAIDE is remarkable for the extreme vigor
of its growth, and is evidently a hybrid of some of the
Hybrid Bourbon or Hybrid China roses. It is admirably

suited for a pillar or a wall, but requires a full sun, and, if

| closely pruned, will not bloom at all. It blooms in large

clusters: the flowers are of a light glossy rose, very large

and full; and, if not too closely pruned, they are very

abundant. The Ware Baru is an admirable White
Moss, large and full in flower, and exquisite in bud. As it
is of moderate growth, it will bear close pruning. Pro-
LIFIc is a very beautiful variety, resembling the Old Moss.
BaRonNE DE WASSENAER is a very vigorous rose, of a

bright red, and flowering in clusters. CaprTain INGRAM

—— eee

118 DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE.

is of a dark, velvety purple. GLorrE pEs Movussevusszs is

very large and double, and of a blush-color. Rosa Bon-

HEUR is of a bright rose-color. Nuirs p’Youne is of a
very dwarfed growth, and small deep-purple flowers.
VANDAEL is purple, edged with lilac.

The above afford excellent examples of the various
characteristics of the family of the Mosses. Additions in
considerable number are still made to it every year; but it
is very rarely that any decisive improvement upon the old

varieties is shown in the recent seedlings.

“ Moss roses, when grown on their own roots, require a
light and rich soil: in such soils, they form fine masses of
beauty in beds on lawns. The varieties best adapted to
this purpose are the Common Moss, the Prolific, the Lux-
embourg, the Crimson, and Lane’s Moss. Plants of these
are procurable at a moderate price; and, by pegging down
their shoots with hooked sticks, the surface of the bed will

be covered with a mass of foliage and flowers. They re- ©

quire the same severe pruning as the Provence Rose. To
have a succession of flowers on the same bed, half of the
shoots may be shortened in March, the remainder the be-
ginning of May, pruning closely as recommended for the
Provence roses. By this method, the blooming season
may be prolonged from a fortnight to three weeks. They
should have an abundant annual dressing of manure on

.

eee i te

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. 119

the surface in November, and the bed lightly stirred with
the fork in February. ...

“To raise Moss roses from seed is a most interesting
employment for the genuine rose amateur; such a pleasing
field is open, and so much may yet be done. The follow-
ing directions will, I hope, assist those who have leisure,
perseverance, and love for this charming flower. <A plant
of the Luxembourg Moss, or one of the Celina Moss, and
one of the Single Crimson Moss, should be planted against

a south wall, close to each other, so that their branches
‘may be mingled. In bright, calm, sunny mornings, in

June, about ten o’clock, those flowers that are expanded
should be examined by pressing the fingers on the anthers.
It will then be found if the pollen be abundant: if so, a
flower of the former should be shaken over the latter; or,
what perhaps is better, its flower-stalks should be fastened
to the wall, so that the flower will be kept in an erect
position. Then cut a flower of the Luxembourg Moss, strip
off its petals with a sharp pair of scissors, and place the
anthers firmly, but gently, upon a flower of the Single
Crimson, so that the anthers of each are entangled: they
will keep it in its position: a stiff breeze will then scarcely
remove it. The fertilizing will take place without further
trouble, and a fine hip full of seed will be the result. To
obtain seed from the Luxembourg Moss, I need scarcely
say that this operation must be reversed. <A wall is not
always necessary to ripen seed; for in dry soils, and airy,

\

120 DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE.

exposed situations, the above Moss roses bear seed in
tolerable abundance. The treatment of the hips, sowing
the seed, and the management of the young plants, as
applicable to all, has already been given.” — Kivers.

“+ SEEE, “DSSS BOSE oH

Rosa Damascena.— Any deeply colored rose is popu-

larly called a Damask; but the true Damask —the rose

of Damascus —is of various shades, from the darkest to

the lightest. All these varieties have sprung from one
origin, — the wild rose of Syria, which was introduced into
England in the year 1573, or, according to some writers,
much earlier. It is this rose from which is made the rose-
water of the East, and on this the Eastern poets and their
Western imitators have lavished the wealth of their fancy.
In poetry, indeed, the Damask Rose has woven more gar-
lands than the Moss. Nor is it unknown to history, since
the five hundred camel-loads of rose-water with which the
Sultan Saladin purified the Mosque of Omar after it had
been used as a Christian church were doubtless distilled
from its leaves. But, without falling into an anachronism,

it is hardly possible to claim for it, as some have done, the

a

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. 131

honor of having been the renowned Red Rose of Lan-
caster.

Both the Damask and the Provence roses are extensively
cultivated in France and England for the purpose of mak-
ing rose-water.

The Damask is very hardy, vigorous of growth, and
abundant in bloom. Its shoots are full of spines, and its
leaves of a light green. Its old original varieties are
wholly eclipsed by those which the industry of the florist
has produced from their seed. The following are among
the best of these :— |

La VitLtE DE Bruxe tes is a very beautiful rose, of
delicate waxy tint and vigorous growth. MapameE STo.tz
_ is of apale straw or lemon color. Mapame SoETMANS
is of delicate cream-color, tinged with buff. Mapame
Harpy is a large and very full rose of the purest white.
It has but one fault, —that of sometimes showing a green
bud in the centre. But for this, it would be almost unri-
valled among white roses. Lepa is of a blush tint, edged
with lake.

There are but few new varieties of this family, as the

double sorts do not bear seed freely.

pi DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE.

Rosa Alba.— The parent of the Alba, or White roses,
is a native of Central Europe. The species is so called
from the prevailing delicacy of hue in its varieties, many
of which are of a pure white, while none are of a deeper
coloring than a bright pink. The original stock is spine-
less; but many of its progeny, in consequence, probably,
of hybridization, have spines in greater or less number.
The upper surface of the leaves has a glaucous or whitish
tinge, and the shoots are of a clear green.

Féxicit& is a large double rose, of a delicate flesh-color,
and a most symmietrical shape. La S£pUISANTE is of a
bright rose in the centre, shading into flesh-color at the
circumference: it rivals the last in the perfection of its

shape. Mapamue Avpor is of a pale flesh-color. Mapamm

‘Lzaras is a white rose of a peculiar delicacy, and very

eraceful in its habit of growth. Tur QurEn or DEN-
MARK is of a clear rosy pink. SopHim pE MarsiILty is
of a delicate rose-color, slightly mottled, and, when half
opened, is a rose of remarkable beauty.

The Alba roses bloom abundantly, and form in masses a

beautiful contrast, in their chaste and delicate hues, with

a

ut

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. 133

the deeper colors of the French and Hybrid China roses.
They rarely bear seed freely.

Rosa Gallica.— This rose draws its origin from the
south of Europe, where its wild progenitor still grows
abundantly in the hedges. It is one of the best known,
and longest under cultivation, of all the species. We
confess our strong partiality for it. It is perfectly hardy,
compact in growth, abundant in bloom, beautiful in form,
and rich and various in coloring. It will grow and bloom
anywhere, and endures neglect with a patience unknown to
most others of its race. Yet none better rewards a care-
ful and generous culture. It returns a rich response to
the care bestowed upon it; and, under high cultivation, the
members of this group have no superiors in beauty. It js
not, however, in favor at the present day. Roses of equal
beauty, though. not of equal hardihood, and endowed
with the one valuable quality in which it is wanting, —
that of continuous or repeated blooming, — have, of late,
supplanted it. We may as well say here, while protesting
against the neglect into which the hardy June roses have

fallen, that, of the so-called Perpetuals, a great many

124 DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE.

are undeserving of the name. Some, even with tolerably
good treatment, rarely show a flower after the June
blooming; and none will put forth freely and abundantly
in autumn, without more pains in the management than
most persons are willing to bestow.

The French Rose has been known in England since the
close of the sixteenth century. It is very prolific, and
innumerable seedlings have been raised from it. Some of
these produce flowers exceedingly double, of the most
vivid color, and remarkable even now for the symmetry
of their forms. Among the rest is a great variety of mar-
bled, striped, and spotted roses, which, though curious and
interesting, are certainly less beautiful than the “self-
colored” sorts.

The varieties of this rose formerly catalogued and culti-

vated might be numbered by hundreds. Of these, it is —

needless to mention any but a few of the best and most
distinct.

Bouta DE NANTEUIL is a rose of the richest crimson-
purple, with a centre, at times, of a vivid red. It varies,
however, very much in different seasons, and, while some-
times splendid in coloring, is occasionally dull and cloudy.
GRANDISSIMA is of a deep purplish-rose, very large and

double. Kzxan closely resembles it. ADELE Privost is

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. 125

of asilvery blush. BiaNncuEFLEUR is white, with a tinge

of flesh-color. Cyntuta is of a pale rose. Tur Ducness

_ oF Buccireves is of a dark rose. Ont is of a deep crim-

gon and scarlet, and, when grown in perfection, is one of

the finest roses in existence. La REINE DES FRANCAIS is

also of a bright crimson. PERLE pEs PanacutEs is white,

striped with rose; and Ginter Parrair is white, striped
with light crimson, much like a carnation. D’AGuESSEAU,
GLOIRE DE CotmMArR, LATouR pD’AUVERGNE, TRIOMPHE
DE JAUSSENS, Letitia, Napotton, Duc pE Vatmy, and

TRANSON GOUBAULT, are all excellent roses of this family.

“To grow them fine for exhibition, as single blooms or
‘show-roses, the clusters of buds should be thinned early

in June, taking at least two-thirds of the incipient flowers

from each: manure should also be laid round their stems
on the surface, and manure-water given to them plentifully
in dry weather. With this description of culture, these

roses will much surpass any thing we have yet seen in this

country.

a Although the varieties of this group are summer roses
only, their period of flowering may be prolonged by judi-
cious pruning; and for this purpose two trees of each variety
should be planted, one to be pruned in October, the other
early in May, or just when the buds have burst into leaf:
these will give a regular succession of flowers. In pruning,

. ~

:
126 DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. q
4
cut out with a sharp knife all the spray-like shoots, and
then shorten to within six or eight buds of their base all
the strong shoots (by such I mean those that are above
fifteen inches in length) : the weak shoots cut down to two-
or three buds. This is the pruning required by the Alba,
Damask, and Hybrid Provence roses... .

“To raise French roses from seed, they should be planted
in a warm, dry border sloping to the south, in an open, |
airy situation: the shade of trees is very pernicious to
seed-bearing roses. The following kinds * may be selected,
as they bear seed freely: The Tuscany Rose, a very old |
variety, with rich, deep crimson, semi-double flowers; also ©
Ohl and Latour d’Auvergne. The two latter should have -
their flowers fertilized with the pollen of the Tuscany Rose,
and some fine crimson roses will probably be raised. The —
Village Maid and Ciillet Parfait are the most eligible to —
raise striped roses from: if their flowers are deficient in
pollen, they should be fertilized with those of Rosa_
Mundi.” — Rivers.

the Hupsien Chinese Rosewo

Rosa Indica Hybrida. — This class has been divided |
by some writers into three; viz., Hybrid China, Hybrid

* Some of the roses recommended for seed-bearing are old varieties, :
which may be procured from any old-fashioned English rose-nursery.

= DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. 127

- Noisette, and Hybrid Bourbon. The division seems to us
needless, for the reason that all these, on analysis, resolve
themselves into hybrids of the Chinese Rose, since both
the Noisette and the Bourbon owe their distinctive char-
acter to their Chinese parentage. The hybrids of the
Noisettes are usually inclined to bloom in clusters: those
of the Bourbons are distinguishable by their large, smooth,
and thick leaves.

This class, then, may be defined as the offspring of inter-
marriage of the French and other June roses with the
Chinese Rose and its hybrids. It has, however, none of
the ever-blooming qualities which distinguish the China
roses. _ It is remarkable, as a class, for vigor of growth, in
which, strange as it may appear, it surpasses, in some cases,
both its parents. Most of the Hybrid China roses are,
moreover, perfectly hardy even in the climate of the North-
ern States; and they are admirably adapted for forming
pillars. For this purpose, they should be planted in a very
deep and rich soil. If the soil is naturally poor, dig it cut
to the width and depth of three feet, and replace it with
a mixture of strong loam and old manure. Some of the
Hybrid Chinas thus generously treated, and trained and
pruned in the manner recommended in a former chapter,

will form most gorgeous decorations of a garden; for in

128 DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. ,

the size of the flowers, in beauty of form, and brilliancy

of color, some of the varieties are unsurpassed. Every

autumn, the surface of the soil around the stem should be
covered with manure to the depth of several inches; and

this should be allowed to remain throughout the summer,

renewing it as often as necessary, after a previous forking-

up of the soil, which this covering or “mulching” enriches,

at the same time that it keeps it moist and cool.

The following are among the best of this family of
roses: Beauty oF Briiarp, of vigorous growth, and
bright-scarlet and crimson flowers. Brennus, or Brutus,
is a superb rose, of great size, and strong, rapid growth.
Bratrru, No. 2, is particularly adapted for a pillar rose; its
bloom being very profuse. The color of its flowers is
pink or blush. GrorcGE THE FourTH is an old rose raised
some forty years ago by the excellent English cultivator,
Mr. Rivers. Its bright crimson color and its neat foliage
make it very attractive, though it is less double than
some other varieties. Tur DuKE or DEVONSHIRE is of a
lilac-color, striped with white, and perfect in form; its”
petals overlapping with the greatest regularity. CHARLES
_Duvat is of a deep pink; Cuartzes Lawson, of a vivid
rose. CufinEDOLs is regarded by many as the best rose of ©

the class; for its color is the brightest and clearest crimson, ~
%

ay

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. 129

and its flowers are large and very full. Inferior roses,
_ however, are frequently sold under its name, especially in
this country. Coupr p’Hési is remarkable both for the
perfection of its cup-like form, and for the delicate rose-
color of its petals. Its growth is very vigorous; and,
like most of its kindred, it is perfectly hardy. GENERAL
JACQUEMINOT is a large purplish-crimson rose. It must
not be confounded with the Hybrid Perpetual of the same
name. FuLcGEens is of a deep crimson. TRIOMPHE DE
BayeEvx is white, and an excellent pillar-rose. Mapamz
PLANTIER is also white, but very distinct from the last;
for, as it sprang on the mother’s side from the Noisette,
it blooms in clusters. Its individual flowers are surpassed
by those of one or two other white roses; but the extraor-
dinary profusion of its bloom, its graceful habit, its neat
foliage, and its hardy, enduring nature, make it, on the
whole, the best rose of its color in cultivation. Pau.
PrrRras is Bourbon on the mother’s side, as is also Paun
Ricaut. The first is of a pale rose, the second of a bright
crimson. Vivip is a seedling of the English rose-grower,
Mr. William Paul. Its flowers are not large, but they are
of the most vivid crimson; and the vigorous habit of
the plant makes it very suitable either for a pillar or a

trellis.

130 DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE.

“When grown as large standards, these roses require —
peculiar pruning. If their shoots are shortened too much, *
they will grow vigorously, but give no flowers. They

‘should, therefore, be thinned out, so that the head of the
tree is not at all crowded, and then be shortened to within
twelve buds of their base: a crop of fine flowers will then
be produced. This is the pruning to be done either in the
early part of November or in February: we will call it the
winter pruning.* There is another mode of pruning these
roses, partly in summer, which will be found highly eligi- —
ble. Thin out the shoots in the winter, and leave a selected |
number of those that are most vigorous nearly their full
length, merely cutting off their tips: these will be loaded —
with blossoms so as to make the trees quite pendulous. |
As soon as the blooming season is past, shorten them all
to within six inches of their base. They will immediately
put forth strong shoots, which, while in a very young —
state, thin out, leaving those that are the most vigorous.
These shoots treat in the same manner the following year.
By this method of pruning, a pendulous, graceful head is
formed, instead of a stiff, formal one, so common to stand-
ard roses. In pruning these roses, when trained as pillars,
the spurs from the shoots fastened to the stake merely

a

* These directions, it will be remembered, are for the climate of
England. The November pruning will not do here; indeed, it will
require much precaution to make even the hardy roses succeed as
standards.

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. 131

require thinning out, so as not to be crowded, and then
| shortened to within five or six buds of their base. Trained

as pillar-roses, they give flowers often too abundantly; so
that they are small and ill-shaped: it is, therefore, often a
good practice to thin the flower-buds as soon as they can
be distinguished.

“T shall now proceed to give a list of those roses, from
which, in combination with others, choice seedlings may

be raised.

“The Duke of Devonshire, in a very warm and dry soil,
will produce hips in tolerable abundance; and, as it is
inclined to be striped, it would possibly form a beautiful

combination with some striped rose, which should be
planted with it.

“Riego, which partakes of the Sweet-brier, might be
made the parent of some beautiful brier-like roses by
planting it with the Splendid Sweet-brier.

“General Allard, a hybrid rose, from which Monsieui
Laffay raised his perpetual rose, Madame Laffay, is much
inclined to give a second series of flowers. This rose
should be planted in a very warm border, or trained
against a south wall with Bourbon Gloire de Rosoménes ;
and, if carefully fertilized with it, some beautiful crimson
autumnal roses would probably be originated. Chénedolé
may also be subjected to the same treatment. What a
fine autumnal rose one like it would be!” — Rivers.

|
:
Nj
:
t
;

132 DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE.

Rosa Spinosissima.— The original Scotch Rose is a
wild dwarf rose, common in Scotland and the north of
England. As it bears seed in great abundance, as these
seeds vegetate freely, and as the Scotch gardeners have
taken pride in multiplying and improving this native
growth of the soil, the number of varieties is nominally
immense. Many of them, however, are scarcely to be dis- .
tinguished the one from the other. The flowers are small,
and exceedingly numerous. They bloom earlier than
most roses, and show various shades of crimson, rose,
white, and yellow,-or rather straw-color; for the yellow
Scotch Rose is apparently a hybrid. They are useful for
covering banks and forming clumps where masses of
bloom are required. Nothing can exceed their hardiness,
and they increase abundantly by suckers. A list of named
varieties of the Scotch Rose would, from their multiplicity,
and want of distinctness, be even more unsatisfactory than
the florist’s lists of pansies or verbenas. The following,
however, are good :—

La NEIGE is pure white, and very double. Guy Man-

NERING 1s of a deep blush. SuLpnHurEa, Lavy Baum,

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. 133

and the Marcuionsss or LaANspownz, are of a pale straw
or sulphur color. The YrELLtow Scorcs is of a deeper
yellow tint. Fiora, Dapune, Eresus, Venvs, and the
CounTEss OF GLASGOW, are of deep shades of rose and

- crimson.

“Scotch roses, when grown into beds and clumps as
_ dwarfs, are beautiful; and in early seasons they will bloom
nearly a fortnight before the other summer roses make
their appearance. This, of course, makes them desirable
appendages to the flower-garden. They bear seed pro-
_fusely; and raising new varieties from seed will be found
"a most interesting employment. To do this, all that is
| required is to sow the seed as soon as ripe, in October, in
_ pots or beds of fine earth, covering it with nearly an inch
of mould: the succeeding spring they will come up, and
bloom in perfection the season following.
“The aim should be to obtain varieties with large and
very double crimson flowers: this can only be done by
slightly hybridizing; and to effect this it will be necessary
to have a plant or two of the Tuscany Rose trained to a
south wall, so that their flowers are expanded at the same
_ time as the Scotch roses in the open borders: unless thus
forced, they will be too late. Any dark-red varieties of
the Scotch roses, such as Venus, Erebus, or Flora, should
_ be planted separately from others, and their flowers fertil-
ized with the above French Rose. Some very original

134 DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE.

deep-colored varieties will probably be obtained by this
method. Sulphurea and one or two other straw-colored
varieties may be planted with the Double Yellow Austrian
Brier; and most likely some pretty sulphur-colored. roses
will be the result. of this combination.” — Rivers.

So Tah RY

Rosa Lutea.— This is a small family of roses, very
distinct in all its characteristics; a native of Southern |
Europe and of some parts of the East. It is seldom
that any seedlings have been obtained from it, as its
flowers, even in the single varieties, are usually barren.
They may, however, be made productive by ca
them with the pollen of other varieties. Its stems !

are spiny, and of a reddish or brownish color. Its —
leaves are small, and its growth somewhat straggling. 3
The colors of its flowers are copper and yellow in .
various shades. It should not’ be pruned too closely;
but the shoots may with great advantage be pinched _
back in midsummer, thus causing them to throw out :
great number of lateral shoots, and correcting the loose

and straggling habit of the bush. The bloom, with this

treatment, is very profuse.

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. 135

The best known roses of this family are five in number.

_ The Stnctze Austrian YELLOW and the Sinate Auvs-

TRIAN CoprpeR may be regarded as the original types of
the species. Wiuritam’s DousLte YELLOW is an English
seedling of a pale-yellow color. Harrison’s YELLOw is
an excellent yellow rose, originated in America. It is
very vigorous in growth, and, on the whole, the best yel-
low rose for general cultivation. The Persian YELLOW,
however, is of a much deeper hue, and is unrivalled in its
way. It is one of those roses which are feeble on their
own roots, but grow very vigorously either on the Dog
Rose or on the Manetti stock. It is said to have origi-
nated, as its name imports, from Persia.

A moist soil, and a dry, pure air, are essential to the

growth of all this family of roses.

“No family of roses offers such an interesting field for

' experiments in raising new varieties from seed as this.

First we have the Copper Austrian, from which, although
it is one of the oldest roses in our gardens, a double flow-
ering variety has never yet been obtained. This rose is
always defective in pollen; and consequently it will not
bear seed unless its flowers are fertilized. As it will be
interesting to retain the traits of the species, it should be
planted with and fertilized by the Double Yellow: it will
then, in warm, dry seasons, produce seed, not abundantly ;

tee. . DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE.

but the amateur must rest satisfied if he can procure even
one hip-full of perfect seed.

“The beautiful and brilliant Rosa Harrisonii, however,
gives the brightest hopes. This should be planted with
the Double Yellow Brier: it will then bear seed abun-
dantly. No rose will, perhaps, show the effects of fertiliz-
ing its flowers more plainly than this; and consequently, to
the amateur, it is the pleasing triumph of Art over Nature.
Every flower on my experimental plants, not fertilized,
proved abortive ; while, on the contrary, all those that were
so, produced large black spherical hips-full of perfect seed.
The Persian Yellow does not seem inclined to bear seed;
but it may be crossed with Rosa Harrisonii, and, I trust,

with some good effect.” — Rivers.

Rosa Sulphurea.— This beautiful rose is difficult of
cultivation both in England and in this country, though in
Italy and the south of France it grows and blooms luxuri-
antly. Its original species is found growing wild, and
yielding single flowers, on the Himalaya Mountains, and
also, it is said, in Persia. Only two varieties are in culti-
vation,— the DovusLE (called also the YELLow Prov-

ENCE) and the Dwarr Dovusite. The climate of the

— F

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. 137

Southern and Middle States is far more suitable to them
than that of the North; though it is more than probable,
that, with careful and judicious treatment, they would do
well even here. They need a rich diet, and a sunny and
airy situation, to induce them to expand their flower-buds,
which are provokingly apt to fall before opening. They
are also very liable to the attacks of insects. The difficulty
of the cultivation of this rose is greatly to be lamented,

since it surpasses even the Persian Yellow in beauty.

© Various situations,” says Mr. Rivers, “have been recom-
mended. Some have said, ‘Plant it against a south wall;’
others, ‘Give it ‘a northern aspect, under the drip of some
water-trough, as it requires a wet situation.’ All this is
quackery and nonsense. The Yellow Provence Rose is a
native of a warm climate, and therefore requires a warm
situation, a free and airy exposure, and rich soil: a wall
with a south-east or north-west aspect will be found eligi-
ble. Give the plants surface-manure every autumn, and
water with manure-water in May; prune with the finger
and thumb in summer, as recommended for the Persian
Yellow.*
“At Burleigh, the seat of the Marquis of Exeter, the
effect of situation on this rose is forcibly shown. A very

* M. Godefroy, a French nursery-man, has cultivated it as a pillar-
rose, in a free and open situation, with much success. Manuring as
above, and summer pruning, are indispensable.

138 DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE.

old plant is growing against the southern wall of the man-
sion, in a confined situation, its roots cramped by a stone
pavement: it is weakly, and never shows a flower-bud. In
the entrance-court is another plant, growing in front of a
low parapet wall, in a good loamy soil, and free, airy expo-
sure: this is in a state of the greatest luxuriance, and
blooms in fine perfection nearly every season.

“ Mr. Mackintosh, the gardener, who kindly pointed out
these plants to me, thought the latter a distinct and supe-
rior variety, as it was brought from France by a French
cook a few years since; but it is certainly nothing but the
genuine Old Double Yellow Rose. |

“Jn unfavorable soils, it will often flourish and bloom
freely if budded on the Musk Rose, the common China
Rose, or some free-growing hybrid China Rose; but the
following pretty method of culture I beg to suggest: Bud
or graft it on some short stems of the Rosa Manetti. In
the autumn, pot some of the strongest plants; and, late in
spring, force them with a gentle heat, giving plenty of air.
It will now also be very interesting to plant trees of this
variety in orchard-houses: this seems to me to be the
exact climate required by it. By this method, the dry
and warm climate of Florence and Genoa may, perhaps,
be partially imitated ; for there it blooms in such profu-
sion, that large quantities of its magnificent flowers are
daily sold in the markets during the rose-season.

“The following extract relative to this rose is from the

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE 139

-quaint old book, ‘Flora, Ceres, and Pomona, by John Rea,
Gent., 1655, showing that budding and double-budding
of roses and trees is no new idea: ‘The Double Yellow
Rose ts the most unapt of all others to bear kindly and fair
flowers, unless it be ordered and looked unto in an espe-
cial manner. For whereas all other roses are best natural,
this is best inoculated upon another stock. Others thrive
and bear best in the sun, this in the shade. Therefore the
best way that I know to cause this rose to bring forth fair
and kindly flowers is performed after this manner: First,
in the stock of a Francford* Rose, near the ground, put
in a bud of the Single Yellow Rose, which will quickly
shoot to a good length; then, half a yard higher than the
place where the same was budded, put into it a bud of the
Double Yellow Rose; which growing, the suckers must
be kept from the root, and all the buds rubbed off, except
those of the kind desired; which being grown big enough to
bear (which will be in the two years), it must in winter be
pruned very near, cutting off all the small shoots, and only
leaving the biggest, cutting off the tops of them also, as
far as they are small; then in the spring, when the buds
for leaves come forth, rub off the smallest of them, leaving
only some few of the biggest, which by reason of the
strength of the stock affording more nourishment than any
other, and the agreeable nature of the Single Yellow Rose

* This is the Frankfort Rose, a variety of Rosa Gallica, with very
double flowers, one of our oldest garden-roses.

140 DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE.

(from whence it is immediately nourished), the shoots will
be then strong, and able to bear out the flowers if they be
not too many, which may be prevented by nipping off the
smallest buds for flowers, leaving only such a number of
the fairest as the tree may be able to bring to perfection ;
which tree should stand something shadowed, and not too
much in the heat of the sun, and in a standard by itself,
rather than under a wall. These rules being observed,
we may expect to enjoy the full delight of these beautiful
roses, as I myself have often done by my own practice in
divers trees so handled, which have yearly borne store of
fair flowers, when those that were natural, notwithstand-
ing all the helps I could use, have not brought forth one
that was kindly, but all of them either broken, or, as it
were, blasted.’ ”

Ndi STE RR, >a.

Rosa Rubignosa.— This is the Eglantine of the poets,

celebrated in song by bards known and unknown to fame,

from Milton down to the rustic rhymer offering the trib-.

ute of his untutored Muse to the charms of some vil-
lage beauty.
Nothing is easier than its cultivation; but, to our mind,

it loses half its attraction when transplanted from its

Nn)
4

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. 141

native road-side or thicket into the garden. From its
perfect hardiness and free growth, it is sometimes used as
a stock for budding or grafting. The fragrance of its
leaves readily distinguishes it from other species.

Most of the named varieties under this head in the cata-
logues of nursery-men are hybrids; sometimes, as in the
case of the DouBLE-mMArRGINED Hip, or MapE ine, retain-
ing little trace of the SwrEt-Brier. Among the best are
the Monstrous SwereEt-BrikgEr, the Carmine, the CELEs-
TIAL, the SpLeNDID, the ScaruEeT, the Rosz ANGLE,

the Roya, and the SupErs.

Kosa Alpina.— This familiar climbing rose is easily |

known by its long shoots, nearly or quite free from thorns,
and the reddish tinge, shaded into green, which marks the
stems of most of the varieties. Its parent is a native of
the Alps, and it is perfectly hardy. The flowers grow in
clusters. In the Otp Rep Bovursautt, they are semi-
double, and indifferently formed; but some of the other
varieties show great improvements both in shape and
color. They are excellent climbing or pillar roses, and

require less sun to develop their flowers than most other

|

142 - DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE.

species. Like other climbing roses, they should be pruned.
but little, though the old stems should be well thinned
out.

Amapis, or the Crimson Bovursavtt, is of a deep
purplish-crimson, with large semi-double flowers. The
Buiusu Boursavtt is, in its flowers, larger and more full
than most others of the species. They are of a deep flesh-

color, passing into a lighter shade towards the edge. It

can scarcely owe its qualities to the Boursault race alone,

but seems to be a hybrid of some of the Chinese roses.
When in perfection, it is much the best of the eroup, but
requires a warmer and brighter aspect than the others. It
is, however, perfectly hardy. This variety is also called
Catypso, DE v’Istx, The Wuite Boursavtt, and FLort-
pA. Inermis ELeGans and .Graciiis are the only other

varieties of the group that need be mentioned here.

Rosa Arvensis Hybrida.—The origin of the Ayrshire
Rose has been the subject of some discussion among bota-
nists and cultivators. It is generally supposed, however,
to have sprung from the seed of a wild trailing rose com-

mon in Great Britain and in Western Europe, the flowers

bint oh 2s et en

See

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. 143

of which had been impregnated by accident or design
with the pollen of some other species. The Ayrshire roses
are known in Europe for their astonishing vigor of growth ;
some species, it is said, growing nearly thirty feet in a
year, —an achievement which we never knew them to
equal in this country. Their growth, however, is very rap-
id; and, when once established, their long, slender shoots
quickly possess themselves of every object near them. As
may be gathered from their name, most of them originated
in Scotland. In Europe, these roses are valued as standard

weepers, since, when budded on tall stocks, they form huge

heads of pendulous foliage and bloom. Doubtless they

would succeed as well or better in our Southern and Mid-
dle States; but in the North they would probably require,
in common with other standard roses, a careful protection
against the changes of the seasons.

BENNETT’S SEEDLING and the DuNDEE RamBLER have
white flowers; those of the last being not fully double.
The Countess or LizvEN is creamy-white and semi-

double. SPLENDENS is white, edged with red; and the

QUEEN OF THE BELGIANS is of a cream-color. The

AYRSHIRE QUEEN is of a dark crimson-purple, and less
vigorous in growth than the rest. Rua is of a pale flesh-

color. Like the last, it is a hybrid, probably between the

144 DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE.

Tea Rose and one of the Ayrshires; for it has much of the

fragrance of the former.

“T have a steep bank of a hard white clay,” says an
English writer, “which, owing to a cutting made in the
road, became too steep for cultivation. About sixteen
years since, this was planted with Ayrshire and other
climbing roses. Holes were made in the hard soil with a
pick, two feet over and two feet deep; some manure mixed
with the clay, after it had lain exposed to frost to mellow
it, and climbing roses planted. This bank is, when the
roses are in bloom, a mass of beauty: I have never seen
any thing in climbing roses to equal it. On another bank,
they are gradually mounting to the tops of the trees:
none of them have ever been pruned. Ayrshire roses, as
articles of decoration in places unfitted for other ornamen-
tal climbers, are worthy of much more attention than they
have hitherto received.

The following extract from the “Dundee Courier” of
July 11, 1837, will give some idea how capable these roses

are of making even a wilderness a scene of beauty :—

“Some years ago, a sand-pit at Ellangowan was filled
up with rubbish found in digging a well. Over this a

piece of rock was formed for the growth of plants which

prefer such situations, and amongst them were planted
some half-dozen plants of the Double Ayrshire Rose,
raised in this neighborhood about ten years ago. These

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. 145

roses now most completely cover the whole ground, —
a space of thirty feet by twenty. At present they are in
full bloom, showing probably not less than ten thousand
roses in this small space.”

Rosa Sempervirens.— This is a climbing rose of very
vigorous growth, a native of the middle and south of
Europe. The garden varieties originated from it bloom
in clusters of small and usually very double flowers, of
which the prevailing tints are light, varying from delicate
shades of rose and pink to a pure white. They are not
absolutely evergreen, but only partially so, retaining their
bright, glossy leaves till spring, provided they are planted
in shady and sheltered places, as under trees, or in the
angles of walls, but dropping them in open situations. In
England they have come into great favor as pillar-roses,
and for covering walls, banks, or unsightly objects in the
garden or on the pleasure-ground. Budded on tall stems
of the Dog Rose, they form pendulous standards of magni-
ficent proportions; rivalling, in this respect, the Ayrshire.
Whether such standards would be equally successful in

the Northern States, is, to say the least, doubtful.
10

BONN np a i geared pind Srey aie oe opt pal meen ane renee Speen

==",
nha

pemeee 2 >

p rm, 4
a ee ee

Fi

146 _ DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE.

Most of the varieties of the Evergreen Rose now most
in esteem were originated in the gardens of Neuilly, near
Paris, by M. Jacques, gardener to King Louis Philippe.
One or two are crossed with the Musk Rose; whence they
acquire a fragrance in which their own race is deficient.
BaNKSLEFLORA is one of these. It has small double
white flowers. FEticirs PERPETUEE, in spite of its pre-
posterous name, is one of the most beautiful of climbing
roses ; and trained as it sometimes is in European gardens,
drooping in graceful festoons from pillar to pillar on sup-
porting wires, or mantling some unsightly dead trunk
with its foliage of shining green and its countless clusters
of creamy white flowers, it forms one of the most attrac-

tive objects imaginable. -Thin out its shoots; but do not
prune them, since, if they are much shortened, they will
yield no flowers whatever. Give it a rich soil, with au-
tumnal top-dressing of manure; a treatment good for the

whole group, and, indeed, for all climbing roses. Donna

Marta has pure white flowers. Its growth is less vigor-

ous than others, its foliage light green, and it blooms in
large clusters. Myrianrures R&noncu te has flowers of
a pale peach-color, drooping in large clusters, and in form
resembling a double ranunculus. Rosa Pena is of a

bright flesh-color, large and double. Princesse Marie is

ee ee oe

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. 147

. reddish-pink. Fortunn’s YELLOw is a native of China
and Japan, and is sometimes included in this class. It is of
a bright fawn-color, with a tinge of copper; beautiful under
shelter, but will not bear a winter exposure in the North-
ern States. It is of comparatively recent introduction.
RampanteE blooms profusely in clusters of pure white.
Fora is of a bright rose; LEOPOLDINE D’ORLEANS, white,
tinged with rose; and SprecTABILIs, rosy-lilac.

While some of this race are perfectly hardy, others will
require protection against a Northern winter. The ease
of their culture, their rapid growth, and their admirable
effect where masses of flowers and verdure are desired,
will commend them all to favor in the Middle and South-

ern States.

. “IT know of no rose idea,” says Mr. Rivers, “prettier
than that of a wilderness of evergreen roses, the varieties
planted promiscuously, and suffered to cover the surface
of the ground with their entangled shoots. To effect this,
the ground should be dug, manured, and thoroughly
cleaned from perennial weeds, such as couch-grass, &c.,
and the plants planted from three to five feet asunder. If
the soil be rich, the latter distance will do. They must be
hoed amongst, and kept clean from weeds after planting,
till the branches meet: they will then soon form a beautiful
mass of foliage and flowers, covering the soil too densely

|
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t

— See
wr Ae ee,

ince.

se= ¥ oS oN pn a -
Te sets eye ee

148 DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE.

tor weeds of minor growth to flourish. Those weeds that
are more robust should be pulled out occasionally; and
this is all the culture they will require. For temples, col-
umns, wire-fences, which they soon cover with beauty,
and verandas, their. use is now becoming well known.
One of the most complete temples of roses is that at the
Warner, Esq., Hoddesdon, Hertfordshire; and
the prettiest specimens of festooning these roses from one

seat of

column to another by means of small iron chains (strong
iron wire will do) may be seen at Broxbourn Bury, near
Hoddesdon, the seat of

« .,. About six or eight years ago, I received, among
others, some very stout short stocks of the Dog Rose:
they were not more than two feet in height, but stouter
than a large broom-handle, the bark thick and gray with

Bosanquet, Esq.

age. They were planted, and grew most luxuriantly. I
was for some little time at a loss what varieties to bud
them with; for, be it remembered, all stout and old rose-
stocks require to be worked with very strong-growing
sorts of roses, to take off the abundance of sap, and keep
them in a healthy state. At last, in a mere freak of fancy,
I had them budded with some varieties of the Evergreen
Rose (Rosa Sempervirens). They grew most luxuriantly;
and after a year or two, not being trees adapted for sale,
they were planted in a sloping bank of strong white clay,
and left to grow and bloom as Nature dictated: not a
shoot was ever touched with the pruning-knife. —

a

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. 149

“One of these trees is on a stem a trifle more than two
- feet i in height, and it has been these two or three summers
past a picture of beauty. When in full bloom, the ends
~ of its shoots rest on the ground, and it then forms a per-

fect dome of roses: nothing in rose-culture can really be

more beautiful. It will be at once seen with what facility

such stout, short, old rose-stocks can be found in any

hedge. They may be planted in the kitchen-garden, bud-

ded with the above-mentioned sort, and, to give variety in

- color, with some of the following kinds, — all varieties of

- Rosa Sempervirens, Myrianthes, Jaunatre, Adelaide d’Or-

léans, and Spectabilis. Every bud will succeed, as no

roses grow more freely; and, after remaining one season

- from budding in their ‘nursery,’ some nice places must be

- found for them on the lawn, where, unpruned, unchecked,

q
~
OS

they will, with all the freshness of unassisted Nature, annu-

ally delight the eye of the lover of flowers.” *

ST he MMlora Rose 00

Rosa Multijiora.— The parent of this family belongs
to Japan and China. With few exceptions, we cannot

recommend them to Northern cultivators for growth in

_ the open air, as they bear our winters but indifferently,

bis

* This will do for the Southern States. Unhappily, it will not do
in New England.

r
~F

_ dark lake, changing to various shades of red and lilac, 80

150 DESCRIPTION OF THE. ROSE. 2

and, in some cases, are killed outright. RUssELLIANA, Or —

ScaRLeT GREVILLIA, blooms in large clusters of a rich,

that the cluster presents a curious diversity of hue. As it
is extremely vigorous in growth, it would make an sini |
rable pillar or climbing rose, were it but a little more
hardy. It would, no doubt, succeed if the pillar were
protected during winter by fastening around it a covering 4
of pine or spruce boughs. These exclude sun, but not air;
so that the rose is not exposed to the dangers from damp- — 9
ness which attend a compact mass of straw soaked by
rain and snow. As RussELLIANA bears pruning better
than most climbing roses, it may be grown as a bush; in 4
which state it has flourished here for a number of years”
without protection. Dr La GrRirrERarg. may also be ~
grown as a bush with perfect success as far North as Bos- 4
ton. It gives a great abundance of blush and rose-colored —
flowers, forming a high mound of bloom. Laura Da- |
vousT forms an admirable greenhouse stock for rafter —
roses. Indeed, it is well worth a place for its own sake.
Its small double flowers of bright pink and flesh-color, ;
changing to white, are produced in large and gracefal
clusters, beautiful from the varieties of shade which they

exhibit. Carmin VeLouts, ALBa, and CoccinEA are also”

veh

x Aas
ia DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. 151
3 |
good varieties of this family, the value of which is greatly

diminished by the imperfect hardiness of many of its

members.

_ ~ The following are roses of doubtful parentage, several
of them much esteemed abroad; though, for the most part,
__ they have not been sufficiently tried here to establish their
-- merit and their hardiness in our Northern climate. All
those named below bear an English winter.
Mapame p’ARBLAY, or WELLS’s WuiTtt, is of a light
3 flesh-color, and its growth is exceedingly vigorous. The
GARLAND is of a light fawn-color, changing to white, and
‘blooms in large clusters of double flowers, which turn’ to
pink before fading. Sir Jonn Srsricurt has small semi-
| : double crimson flowers, a color valuable in a climbing rose,
- because not very common. MeENnovux is also crimson.
x Inpica Masor is of a pale blush. Among others under
- this head may be mentioned AsrroLase, BENGALE For-
| MIDABLE, QUEEN, and Cuatr. The last, however, is but
a moderate grower for a climbing rose.
“ Among climbing roses, but few can be found that will
__ bear seed in England, the Ayrshire roses excepted, from

152 DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE.

some of which it is probable that some fine and original —
climbers may be raised. A most desirable object to obtain *
is a dark crimson Rosa ruga: this may possibly be accom-
plished by planting that favorite rose with the Ayrshire 3
Queen, and fertilizing its flowers very carefully with those Q
of that dark rose. It is remarkable, that although these ~
roses are both hybrids, from species apparently very re- %
mote in their affinities, yet both of them bear seed, even —
without being fertilized. The Blush Ayrshire, a most.

ra

abundant seed-bearer, may also be planted with the Ayr- —
shire Queen, the Gloire de Rosoménes, the Double Yellow _
Brier, Single Crimson Moss, Celina Moss, the China Rose
Fabvier, and its flowers fertilized with the pollen of these
roses: if any combination can be effected, pleasing results
may reasonably be hoped for. To ‘make assurance doubly
sure, the anthers of the Ayrshire Rose should be removed —
from some of the flowers with which the experiment is —
tried.” — Rivers.

=

oe

+

:
;
‘i
;

Rosa Banksia. — This very beautiful and very singular a
family more resembles in bloom a double Spirza pruni- %

folia, dwarf almond, or Chinese plum, than a rose. Its —

shoots are long, flexible, and graceful, and its foliage of a —

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. 153

4 is like a pendulous garland of white, yellow, or rose-colored
; P & ys

blossoms, small in size, and countless in number. It is not

__ hardy here, or even in England; but it is one of the few
4 once-blooming roses that are worth training on a green-
3 house rafter. We have found it to succeed in a house
q without fire, with the protection of straw placed around it
- in winter. It will then bloom in the spring.
This rose is a native of China, and was named in com-
- _pliment to Lady Banks. In Italy and the south of France
: it grows to perfection, climbing with an astonishing vigor,
: and covering every object within its reach. According to
the French writer Deslongchamps, there was in 1842 a
) Banksia Rose at Toulon, of which the stem was, at its base,
two feet and four inches in circumference; while the
largest of the six branches measured a foot in girth. Its
foliage covered a space of wall seventy-five feet wide, and
about eighteen feet high; and it sometimes produced

: shoots fifteen feet long in a single year. It flowered in

_ April and May; from fifty to sixty thousand of its double .

white blossoms opening at once, with an effect which the

writer describes as magical. This remarkable tree was
then about thirty-four years old. Deslongchamps also
describes another Banksia Rose at Caserta, in the king-

4 dom of Naples, which climbed to the top of a poplar
.

-
*:

, }
——— ae

154 DESCRIPTION. OF THE ROSE.

~ BY pe

its lifeless form with its rich green drapery, and its flowery —
garlands and festoons of white. — a

Banksian roses must not be shortened much; for, if they ; E
are, they will not bloom. The branches may be thinned <
out, however, to any degree necessary. The strong, thick | ; :
shoots of overgrown proportions, and often but half 4
ripened, which they sometimes make towards the end of =
summer, should be cut out, as they draw too much life
from the blooming part of the plant. The same rule will 3
also apply to many other species. These gross and im- 4
mature shoots occur in many roses, both in the open 4
ground and under glass; and, as they rarely produce good. q
flowers, they should not be suffered to rob the rest of the

plant of its nourishment.

#

The Dovste Waitt Banxsta is the best known, and —

primrose yellow. JAuNE SERIN is of a bright yellow. a
Fortune’s Banxsta has double white flowers, much |
larger than usual with the species, and is greatly admired. -
The YetLow Banxsta is of a bright yellow, small, and 7
very double. Rosza is of a bright rose, double. a

The Banksia is frequently used in greenhouses and con- gs

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. 155

_ servatories as a stock for other climbing roses; and, in

~ —

many cases, answers well.

a : _rXqe PRaemmasa de

- Rosa Rubifolia. — This native rose has been much im-

"proved by Mr. Feast and others, and now has many vari-

variety is in itself very attractive; blooming in clusters,

which last a long time, and exhibit a pleasing diversity of
Shade, since the flowers grow paler as they grow old. For
our own part, we prefer the parent to most of its more pre-

tending offspring.

_ Allof this family are held in great scorn by transatlantic
cultivators. Perhaps the climate of England is unfavor-
able to them; perhaps national prejudice may color the
judgment; or perhaps the fact that a less rigorous climate
permits the successful cultivation of many fine climbing
roses which cannot well be grown here may explain the
x slight esteem with which these coarse children of the
EP prairies’ are regarded. Coarse, without doubt, they are,
os except those into which another element has been infused
by hybridization, accidental or otherwise: and yet our

climate forbids us to dispense with them.

- ties, some of which are evidently hybrids. The single

igs uae

SS ey a SE cen. ics Pyke w a>
iv ts 7 s , A x
7 \

156 DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE.

The QuEEN oF THE PRarrRies is among those best A

known and most desirable. Individually, its flowers are 3

as void of beauty as a rose can be. Sometimes they are

precisely like a small cabbage, — not the rose so called, but —

the vegetable, — and they are as deficient in fragrance as

in elegance. Yet we regard this rose as a most valuable
possession. It will cover a wall, a pillar, a bank, or a dead
trunk, with a profusion of bloom, gorgeous as a feature of

the garden landscape, though unworthy to be gathered or

critically examined. It is perfectly hardy, and of the
easiest culture. Those who can make no other rose grow

rarely fail with this. The Bartrwors Brtxe is a notable —

exception to every thing we have said in disparagement of
the Prairie roses. It is evidently a hybrid of some tender,
ever-blooming variety, apparently one of the Noisettes;
and derives, from its paternal parent, qualities of delicacy

and beauty which are not conspicuous in the maternal

ee

a , as
Gee ee ee ee

*

4%
a
—
3

stock. At the same time, it has lost some of the robust

and hardy character of the unmixed Prairie. In a severe

New-England winter, its younger shoots are often killed

back. It shows a tendency to bloom in the autumn; and ~ 4

a trifle more of the Noisette blood infused into it would,

no doubt, make it a true autumnal rose. Some florists —

use it for spring forcing in the greenhouse; for which the —

é

A Le sen - Le ¥ BFR a) See eA Pd wt
En cl DOREY 3 >
a NE Pe Doe . iB y, Ee.
j 2; é Ke if /
t
DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. 157

“delicacy of its clustering white flowers, shaded with a soft,
flesh-color, well fits it. When the worthy Rivers, patri-
serch of English rose-growers, pronounced sentence, ¢x

-cathedré, against the whole race of Prairies, —“I will dis-

“cultivating,” — he included in his decree of excommuni-
“cation one of the prettiest climbing roses in existence.

\ Anna Marta has very double flowers of pink and rose.
-Linnazan Hitt Beauty bears white and pale blush
flowers. Miss GuUNNELL is pale pink, with a tinge of buff.

‘It is one of the best, though not equal to the BaLttmmorE

»

Betz. Mrs. Hovey has large white flowers; Prest-
: DENT, deep pink ; TrrumpHantT, deep rose ; SuPERBA, light
by ink. Among other sorts are the Kine or tHe Prartrig,
Eva CoRINNE, JANE, and SeRapuHim, all excellent for
general effect, but not to be classed with the roses suitable
for the bouquet or the drawing-room.

. The Prairie roses might, no doubt, be greatly improved
by hybridizing. Thus, by fertilization with the pollen of
“the Musk Rose, we should probably obtain an offspring
vi ith some of the delicacy and fragrance of that species.
“Again: by applying the pollen of some vigorous, hardy
‘rose of deep and vivid color, we should improve the color

of the Prairie without impairing its hardiness. Hybrid

‘miss them with the remark, that none of them are worth ©

158 DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. =

pe ee China Paul Ricaut would probably answer well for this
2 i experiment. The Baltimore Belle bears seed occasionally;
but is so uncertain and capricious in this respect, that it

will require no little perseverance in the hybridist. 4

Ris 3? . ce
ee: i oo xr

4 «
4

3 a
4 %
; a
b * ae
E rome
a _
4 z
_ THE ROSES of which we have hitherto spoken have ;
P. ‘ ; a > s . . a A
_ but one period of bloom in the year. June is gay with %
SS wa
_ their flowers; but at midsummer their glory is departed, *
- not again to return till a winter of rest has intervened. i
_ Various families of roses have, however, the faculty of ‘a
7 : rt ae
. continuous or repeated blooming. Some remain in bloom Ss, :
_ with little interruption for a lcng time; while others bloom ‘Sales
at intervals, after periods of rest. These classes are cee BS

known, with little discrimination, as“ Autumnal Roses,” ae

_“EKver-blooming Roses,” or “Perpetual Roses.” The

+

- French have a name for those blooming at intervals, which

% ‘is very appropriate. They call them “Remontant Roses,”
- — Rosiers Remontants,—in other words, roses which

»

159

Be 160 DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. ‘

-
ig
+

grow again. This very well describes them. They make ~

‘ i.
wy

a growth in spring and early summer, and the young -

7
,
%

wood thus produced bears a crop of flowers. Then the

which, in turn, bears flowers, though less abundantly than q
before. The June, or once-blooming roses, it is true, a
make also a first and second growth; but, with them, the
second growth gives leaves alone. In the true ever-
blooming roses, or roses that bloom continuously, the
growth of young wood capable of bearing flowers is 4
a going on with little interruption during the whole period 4
¥ when the vital powers of the plant are awake. It is to q
stimulate the production of this blooming wood that we 4
prune back the shoots that have already bloomed, as soon
as the flowers have faded. ;
. It is the possession of a great variety of roses of repeated eS
Aue or continuous bloom that gives to the rose-lovers of our own — 4
day their greatest advantage over those of former times. i
, Our forefathers had but very few autumnal roses. The a
‘ ancient Romans, it seems, had roses in abundance -in ,
ee November and December ; but this must have been with ; q
a the aid of a supreme skill in cultivation, as there is no rea- 4

pe son to believe that they were in possession of those Chinese %

ay and Indian species, to which the modern florist is indebted, _

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. 161

directly or indirectly, for nearly all his autumnal flowers.
As these species are by far the most important of the

ever-blooming and remontant families, both in themselves

and in the numberless progeny of hybrids to whom they

have transmitted their qualities, we place them first on

our list.

Tie ENvyese Rose.

Fiosa Indica.— Rosa Semperfiorens.— We include

- under the head of the Chinese Rose two botanical spe-

{

3 ,
a rete : .

_* ad : ; ay,

th Bite

{

cies, because they are so much alike, that, for floral pur-
poses, it is not worth while to separate them, and
because their respective offspring are often wholly un-
distinguishable. The most marked distinction between
the two is the greater depth and vividness of the color

of Rosa Semperflorens; though, by a singular freak of

Nature, seedlings perfectly white are said to have been

produced from it.

China roses will not endure our winters without very

careful protection; yet they bloom so constantly and so

abundantly, that they are very desirable in a garden. In
large English pleasure-grounds, they are sometimes

planted in masses, each of a distinct color. They may
. lt

cover, not the roots only, but the entire plants, with earth. —

--the roses are buried, place a covering of dry leaves some

2a ha &... eg ere a ee eA
oo Eas Ce, es * fete
] Ber A a> he. ‘ o

oe oe :

\ 4 , .

162 DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE.

also be so used here by those who will take the trouble to 2 4
remove them from the ground in the autumn, and place =
them in a frame for protection. For this purpose, a hot- a
bed frame may be used, substantially made of plank. It — ‘
should be placed in a situation where the soil is thoroughly 4
drained either by Nature or Art. The roses are to be 4
placed in it close together, and overlapping each other, to 3
save room; the roots being well covered with soil, and — {
the plants laid in a sloping position. By covering them 4
with boards and mats, they will then be safe from every : 4
thing but mice. The most effectual way to defeat the a

mischievous designs of these pestiferous vermin is to. —

The covering of boards and mats must be so placed as to = |
exclude water from rain and melting snow. Tea roses,
of which we shall speak under the next head, are, as a a
class, more tender than the Chinas; and, in order to pre- ee
serve them, the soil in the frame should be dug out to the — a
depth of a foot, the roses laid at the bottom, and wholly

covered with earth somewhat dry. On this earth, after

six inches deep, and then cover the whole with water- —
proof boards or sashes. The leaves alone, if in sufficient

quantity, would protect the roses from cold, but, at the | e

3
2 =

3
be
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RY
ea
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4
os
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same time, afford a tempting harborage for mice, which
would destroy tlie plants, unless buried out of their reach.
Thus treated, the tenderest Tea roses will bear the win-
ter with impunity in the coldest parts of New England.

Though China roses are not equal in beauty to some

_ of their hybrid offspring to be hereafter described, they

surpass all other roses for pot-culture in the window of the

parlor or drawing-room. They are more easily managed

than Tea roses, and, though less fragrant, are not less

abundant in bloom. No roses are of easier culture in the

_ greenhouse. The varieties of this group are the Bengal

roses of the French, and are those familiarly known

among us as Monthly roses. They were introduced into

England from the East about the beginning of the last

_ century.

CarMIN pD’YEBLES, or Carmin Superss, has bright

carmine flowers. CRaAMOoISIE SUPERIEURE has double

crimson flowers, and, like the former, is excellent for pot-
culture. Eucrne BrauHArNals is large, very double,

and of a bright amaranth-color, approaching crimson.

_ Fasvier is of crimson scarlet, very vivid and striking.

PRESIDENT D’OLBEQUE is of a cherry-red.
All of the above belong to the Semperflorens species,

and are of deep colors. The following are varieties of

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. 163.

7 ‘
~
é

4

A ee ‘
Peo Ea ee

a
certaces. of

“7

> v L
r ' ;
ey A Es id rd
ee a Sew Bort ot

164 DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE.

Rosa Indica. ArcnpvukEe Cuar.szs is of a bright rose-
color, gradually deepening as the flower grows older, till
it becomes, at times, almost crimson. CrLs MULTIFLORA
is white, shaded with pink, and flowers very freely.
Mavpame Bréon is of a rich rose-color, very large, double,
and compact in form. Ciara SyLvain is pure white.
Mapamer Bureav is white, with a faint tinge of straw-
color. Mrs. Bosanquet may be placed in this division;
for, though it is certainly a hybrid, the blood of the China
Rose predominates in it, and characterizes it. It is of a
pale, waxy, flesh color, very delicate and beautiful, at the
same time large and double. Napoxton is of a bright
pink, and the Ducuzss or KEnrT is white.

The Dwarf roses, called Lawrenceanas, or Fairy roses,

are varieties of the Chinese. They are very small, many

of them not exceeding a foot in height, and are used as

edging for flower-beds in countries of which the climate is

not too severe for them. Like all other China roses, they

are very easily grown in pots.

“China roses are better adapted than almost any other
class for forming groups of separate colors. Thus, for
beds of white roses, — which, let it be remembered, will

bloom constantly from June till October, — Clara Sylvain.

and Madame Bureau are beautiful. The former is the taller

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DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. 165

_ grower, and should be planted in the centre of the bed.
_ For crimson, take Cramoisie Supérieure, — no other variety
_ approaches this in its peculiar richness of color; for scarlet,
_Fabvier; for red, Prince Charles and Carmin Superbe;
& for deep crimson, Eugéne Beauharnais; for blush, Mrs.
~ Bosanquet; for a variegated group, changeable as the
chameleon, take Archduke Charles and Virginie; for rose,

- Madame Bréon. I picture to myself the above on a well-

L-

nf

__ kept lawn, their branches pegged to the ground so as to
_ cover the entire surface; and can scarcely imagine any

thing more chaste and beautiful.
“To succeed in making these roses bear and ripen their

_ seed in England, a warm, dry soil and south wall are

--

necessary ; or, if the plants can be trained to a flued wall,

_ success will be more certain. Eugene Beauharnais, fer-

~ tilized with Fabvier, would probably produce first-rate

brilliant-colored flowers. Archduke Charles, by removing
a few of the small central petals, just before their flowers
are expanded, and fertilizing it with pollen from Fabvier

or Henry the Fifth, would give seed; and as the object

- ought to be, in this family, to have large flowers with

brilliant colors, and plants of hardy, robust habits, no bet-

ter union can be formed. China roses, if blooming in an
airy greenhouse, will often produce fine seed : by fertilizing

_ their flowers, it may probably be insured. In addition,

_ therefore, to those planted against a wall, some strong

A
a
4 plants of the above varieties should be planted in the
ei.

166 DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. re:

orchard-house,—the place, above all others, adapted for
seed-bearing roses.” — Fivers. /

ner
\ PRS ce ar ia,

- we

fiosa Indica Odorata.— This is a Chinese species, — 2
closely allied to the last named, but more beautiful, far
more fragrant, and usually more tender. The two origi- 4 7
nal varieties of it, the Blush Tea and the Yellow Tea, —
were introduced into England early in the ‘present cen- 4
tury; and between them they have produced a numerous 4
family, than which no roses are more beautiful.

To grow them in the open air, they require, in the first q
place, a very thorough drainage. If the situation is at all
damp, the bed should be raised some six inches above the
surrounding surface; but this will be rarely necessary in 4
our climate. If it rests on a good natural stratum of
gravel, this will be drainage sufficient; but, if not, the 2
whole bed should be excavated, and underlaid to the depth ¥ :
of four or five inches with broken stones, broken bricks, 3
or with what is much better than either,— oyster-shells. “4
Over these, sift coarse gravel to prevent the soil from z
working into their crevices, and on the gravel make a bed 4

somewhat more than a foot deep of good loam, mixed —

#.) L, ‘

rT
—

=,
BY
¢
4
+

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. 167

with a nearly equal quantity of light, well-rotted manure,

adding sand if the texture of the loam requires it. The -

bed should be in an open, sunny situation, and sheltered,
as far as may be, from strong winds. The Tea roses
planted in it— unless they have been exhausted by forcing
in the greenhouse—will give a liberal supply of bloom
until checked by the autumn frosts.
Many of these roses can be grown to great advantage
in a cold grapery, in a bed suitably prepared. They differ
greatly in hardiness, and in respect to ease of culture.

‘Some are so vigorous as to form greenhouse climbers,

and so hardy as to bear a Northern winter by being simply

- laid down, and covered with earth, like a raspberry. Of

these is GLorrE pE Dyov, a rose of most vigorous growth,

and closely resembling in the shape of its blossoms that

matchless Bourbon Rose, the well-known Souvenir de la

Malmaison. Its color, however, is very different, being a

mixture of buff and salmon. It has one defect, —a crum- -

pled appearance of the central leaves, which gives them a

_ somewhat withered look, even when just open. Five or

_ six large plants of this variety are growing here with the

utmost luxuriance on the rafters of a glass house, without

= , sa] oe:
ie 4 4 PS aa he ae
} ae rk
c et
z te ; BS .
1 pone

168 DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE.

between them and the glass, and have never been injured
by the frost.

For preserving a small number of Tea roses through

the winter, an ordinary cellar answers perfectly, provided 3
there is no furnace in it. They may either be potted or 3
“heeled” in earth in a box. A few degrees of frost will | 7
not hurt them. Roses and all other plants will bear the
same degree of cold much better in a close, still air than”
in the open sunlight and wind. i,

The prevailing colors of Tea roses are light and delicate: 3
of the rose-colored varieties, ADAM is one of the finest, as
is also SoUVENIR D’uN Ami. Morret is of a pale yellow, —
shaded with fawn and rose. BovuG&Ere is of a deep rosy
bronze, large and double. SiziNz resembles it in color, a
and is very much admired. Canary is of the color which |
its name indicates, and its buds are extremely beautiful.
Yet, in this respect, no variety can exceed the OLD YELLOW
TEA, which is, however, one of the most tender and diffi- %
cult of culture in the whole group. DxEvontrensis is very — J
large, double, and of a pale clear yellow; a very fine rose, 4
but shy of bloom. GutorrE pE Dion, already mentioned, — F:
is a superb rose, though somewhat wanting in that grace ~ q
and delicacy, which, in general, characterize this class.

Mapame Bravy is of a creamy white, and very beautifully

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. 169

3 formed. Mapvame Damaizin is salmon, and very free in
bloom. Mapamer WittiAm is of a bright yellow, large,
E and very double. Nuireueros is of a pale lemon, turning
4 to snow-white. Sarrano is one of the most distinct and
remarkable roses in the group. It is of a buff and apricot
hue, altogether peculiar. Its buds are beautifully formed ;
“as are also its half-opened flowers, though they are not
very double. It is a very profuse bloomer, easy of culture,
> free of growth, and hardy as compared with most other

Tea roses.

_ ly may be originated from seed; but the plants must be
_ trained against a south wall, in a warm, dry soil, or grown
_in pots, under glass. A warm greenhouse or the orchard-
house will be most proper for them, so that they bloom in
May, as their hips are a long time ripening.
“For yellow roses, Vicomtesse Decazes may be planted
with and fertilized by Canary, which abounds in pollen:
some fine roses, almost to a certainty, must be raised from

seed produced by such a union. For the sake of curi-
__ osity, a few flowers of the latter might be fertilized with
the Double Yellow Brier, or Rosa Harrisonii. The Old
; Yellow Tea Rose bears seed abundantly; but it has been
‘ found from repeated experiments that a good or even a

- mediocre rose is seldom or never produced from it: but,

-_ With attention, some very beautiful roses of this fami-

it requires the shelter of glass. It flowers in large clusters —

170 DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE.

duce seed of fine quality, from which large and bright —
rose-colored varieties might be expected; Niphetos would —
give pure white Tea roses; and Gloire de Dijon, fertilized —
with Safrano, would probably originate first-rate fawn- 4
colored roses: but the central petals of the latter should g
be carefully removed with tweezers or pliers, as its flowers °

"he WHs3 Rose.

fiosa Moschata.— This rose is a native of Asia, North- —
ern Africa, and adjacent islands. In Persia it is said to
reach a prodigious size, resembling some gorgeous flower- ©
ing tree. It is said, too, that it is the favorite rose of the 4
Persian poets, who celebrated its loves with the nightin- a
gale in strains echoed by their English imitators. Being —

very vigorous, it is best grown as a climber; but, with us, —

late in summer, and in a warm, moist air, exhales a faint ~
odor of musk.

Tae Dovste Wuitr Musk has yellowish white flow- —

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. 171

Mosk, is an improvement on the Double White, which
it much resembles. Nivea, or the Snowy Musk, can
hardly be said to belong to the group, as it blooms only
once in the year. Opuir, Princess or Nassav, and

Rivers, are also good examples of this family.

~fosa Moschata Hybrida.— Having treated of the
China, Tea, and Musk roses, we now come to the hybrid

offspring which they have jointly produced. In 1817,

MM. Noisette, a French florist at Charleston, 8.C., raised

a seedling from the Musk Rose, impregnated with the

pollen of the common China Rose. The seedling was

different from either parent, but had the vigorous growth
of the Musk Rose, together with its property of blooming
in clusters, and a slight trace of its peculiar fragrance.
This was the original Noisette Rose, and it has been the

parent of a numerous family; but as it has, in turn, been

fertilized with the pollen of the Tea, and perhaps of other

roses, many of its descendants have lost its peculiar charac-

teristics, so that in some cases they cannot be distinguished

from Tea roses. It is thus that confusion is constantly

arising in all the families of the rose; the groups becoming

172 DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE.

merged in each other by insensible gradations, so that it : .
is impossible to fix any clear line of demarcation between a
them. =

The distinctive characteristic of the true Noisette is a
blooming in clusters. Different varieties have different —
habits of growth, some being much more vigorous than —
others; but the greater part are true climbing roses. ;
Those in which the blood of the Musk and China predom- a
inate are comparatively hardy. Many of them can be
grown as bushes in the open air, with very little winter
protection, even in the latitude of Boston. Two varieties
— Madame Massot and Caroline Marniesse —are to- —
day (Oct. 16) in full bloom here, where they have stood —
for several years, with very little precaution to shelter
them. Some other varieties, again, strongly impregnated

with the Tea Rose, are quite as tender as Tea roses of the __

pure race. 3
As rafter-roses in the greenhouse, the Noisettes are un- | 2
surpassed. 4
AIM&éE VIBERT is one of the prettiest of the group. It — ‘

was raised by the French cultivator Vibert, who named it —
after his daughter. The flowers are pure white, and grow
in large clusters. Though not among the most vigorous

:
in growth of the Noisettes, this variety, is ona 1

Y)

WU
wll

wy)

—

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. Li

hardy, and in all respects very desirable. Miss Giece
resembles her French sister, but is scarcely so graceful or
elegant. Joan oF Arc is a pure white rose, growing very
vigorously. Mapamer Massort, sometimes sold by Ameri-
can nursery-men under the name of MapEMoIsELLE HEn-
RIETTE, bears large clusters of small flowers of a waxy
white, faintly tinged with flesh-color. It is one of the
hardiest of the group. Caro~inE MarnressE somewhat
resembles it, but is not equal in beauty.

~All of the above have very distinctly the Noisette
characteristics, as inherited from their parent, the Musk
Rose. Those which follow have been hybridized to such a
degree with the Tea Rose, that its traits predominate ; and
though, in some of them, the cluster-blooming habit of the
Musk is not lost, the flowers bear, in size, shape, color, and
fragrance, a marked resemblance to the Tea. CHrRoma-
TELLA, or the CLtorH oF Gotp, is, when in perfection,
the most beautiful of all the yellow roses; but it is shy of
bloom, and difficult of culture. SoLFaTERgBE is also a fine
yellow rose, much more easily managed than the last.
The same may be said of AuausTa, a seedling raised from
it in this country. IsaBEeLLaA Gray was also raised in

America, and is a seedling from the Cloth of Gold, which

174 DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE.

it rivals in beauty; though, like its parent, it is somewhat
dificult to manage. JauNnE Dersprez, or DrEspreEz’s
Yxtiow, is of a sulphur-color tinged with red, very large
and fragrant. America is also a large and fine flower of
a creamy white; but perhaps the best known of the
whole group is Lamarque, in New England the greatest
favorite among greenhouse climbers. Its flowers are of a
sulphur-yellow, large and double; and its growth is very

vigorous.

“But few of the Noisette roses will bear seed in this
country: the following, however, if planted against a
south wall, and carefully fertilized, would probably pro-
duce some. The object here should be to obtain dark
crimson varieties with large flowers; and for this purpose
Fellenberg should be fertilized with Octavie, Solfaterre
with the Tea Rose. _Vicomtesse Decazes would probably
give yellow varieties; and these would be large and fra-
grant, asin Lamarque and Jaune Desprez. In these direc-
tions for procuring seed from roses by fertilizing, I have
confined myself to such varieties as are almost sure to pro-
duce it; but much must be left to the amateur, as many
roses may be made fertile by removing their central petals,
and consequently some varieties that I have not noticed
may be made productive.” — Rivers.

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. 175

“Gos Dawagx Pexireruan Rose.

Kosa Damascena.— This is a race of Damask roses
endowed with the faculty of blooming in the autumn.
The old roses known as the Monthly (not the China roses
so called) and the Four Seasons are the parents of the
group, though not without some infusion of foreign blood.
The Damask Perpetuals are hardy, and remarkable for
fragrance. They demand rich culture, even more than
most other roses; and the best of them with neglect and
low diet will bloom but once in the year, and that indif-
ferently. On the other hand, they repay generous treat-
ment liberally, as some of them are as beautiful as they
are fragrant. American nursery-men usually catalogue
them among the Hybrid Perpetuals, where they are out of
place; since the true Damask Perpetual is not, in any
sense, a hybrid, though, as before mentioned, some foreign
blood has found its way into the family.

The French rose-grower Vibert has formed a new
group, which he calls the Rose de Trianon, out of the
Damask Perpetuals; but, as the subdivision seems unne-

cessary and perplexing, we shall re-annex it to the parent

group.

176 DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE.

The following are good examples of these Perpetuals:
JoAsINE Haner has deep purplish-red flowers, very showy.
Syponte bears large flowers of a rose or bright salmon,
and blooms profusely. YouanpE or Aragon has deep-
pink flowers, and is an abundant autumn bloomer. The
above belong to Vibert’s new division. The following
are unquestioned Damask: Crimson, or Rosz pu Rot, is
of a bright crimson, very large, very fragrant, and an ex-
cellent autumn bloomer. There is a history attached to
it. Count Lelieur was superintendent of the royal gardens
of St. Cloud, where this rose was raised from seed, a little
before the restoration of the Bourbons. He named it
Rose Lelieur, after himself. When Louis the Eighteenth
came to the throne, an officer of his household insisted
that the new rose should be named after him. Count
Lelieur resisted. A debate ensued. The party of the cour-
tiers prevailed: the new rose was called the King’s Rose,
fiose du Roi; and the count resigned his post in disgust.
Moeapor is a seedling from this rose, and is, perhaps, an
improvement on it. Porttanp BLancueE is pure white,
and blooms well in autumn. An English writer sets it
down as worthless: whence I infer that there must be two
of the same name; for here it has proved itself one of the

most beautiful of white roses. BERNARD is a small but

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. i

very beautiful rose, of a clear salmon-color, and is said to

be a sport from the Crimson.

»

“ As the culture of this class of roses,” says Rivers, “is
at present but imperfectly understood, I shall give the
result of my experience as to their cultivation, with sug-
gestions to be acted upon according to circumstances.
One peculiar feature they nearly all possess, —a reluctance
to root when layered: consequently, Perpetual Damask
roses, on their own roots, will always be scarce. When it
is possible to procure them, they will be found to flourish
much better on dry, poor soils than when budded, as at
present. ‘These roses require a superabundant quantity
of food: it is therefore perfectly ridiculous to plant them
on dry lawns, to suffer the grass to grow close up to their
stems, and not to give them a particle of manure for years.
Under these circumstances, the best varieties, even the
Rose du Roi, will scarcely ever give a second series of
flowers. To remedy the inimical nature of dry soils to this
class of roses, an annual application of manure on the sur-
face of the soil is quite necessary. The ground must not
be dug, but lightly pricked over with a fork in November;
after which some manure must be laid on, about two or
three inches in depth, which ought not to be disturbed,
except to clean with the hoe and rake, till the following
autumn. ‘This, in some situations, in the spring months,
will be unsightly: in such cases, cover with some nice

green moss, as directed in the culture of Hybrid China
12

178 DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE.

roses. I have said that this treatment is applicable to
dry, poor soils: but, even in good rose soils, it is almost
necessary ; for it will give such increased vigor, and such
a prolongation of the flowering season, as amply to repay
the labor bestowed. If the soil be prepared as directed,
they will twice in the year require pruning: in November
[in March, for this country], when the beds are dressed ;
and again in the beginning of June. In the Novem-
ber pruning, cut off from every shoot of the preceding
summer’s growth about two-thirds its length: if they
are crowded, remove some of them entirely. If this
autumnal pruning is attended to, there will be, early
in June the following summer, a vast number of luxu-
riant shoots, each crowned with a cluster of buds. Now,
as June roses are always abundant, a little sacrifice
must be made to insure a fine autumnal bloom: therefore
leave only half the number of shoots to bring forth their
summer flowers; the remainder shorten to about half their
length. Each shortened branch will soon put forth buds;
and in August and September the plants will again be
covered with flowers. In cultivating Perpetual roses of
all classes, the faded flowers ought immediately to be re-
moved; for in autumn the petals do not fall off readily,
but lose their color, and remain on the plant, to the injury
of the forthcoming buds. Though I have recommended
them to be grown on their own roots, in dry soils, yet, on
account of the autumnal rains dashing the dirt upon their

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. 179

flowers when close to the ground, wherever it is possible
to make budded roses grow, they ought to be preferred ;
for, on stems from one to two feet in height, the flowers
will not be soiled: they are also brought near to the eye,
and the plant forms a neat and pretty object.”

fosa Hybrida Bourboniensis. — The. China Rose and
one of the old Damask Perpetuals, known as the Red
Four Seasons, have produced between them a distinct
family of hybrids known as the Bourbon roses. They are
so called because they were originated on the Isle of
Bourbon. One M. Perichon, an inhabitant of that island,
in planting a quantity of seedling roses raised for a hedge,
found one very different from the rest, and planted it
apart. On flowering, it proved to be distinct from any
rose before known. Soon after, in the year 1817, a French
botanist, M. Bréon, arriving at the Isle of Bourbon as cura-
tor of the government botanical garden established there,

o, and

investigated the case of this remarkable seedling,

became convinced that it was produced between the two
species named above; since these were then the only roses

on the island, and both were freely used as. hedges. M.

180 DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE.

Bréon sent plants and seeds of the new rose to Paris; and
from these have sprung the whole race of the Bourbons, —a
race of sweeter savor in horticulture than in history.

They are remarkable as a family for clearness and bright-
ness of color, perfection of form, and freedom of autumnal
blooming. Some of them are quite hardy; others are not
soin New England. Their growth is various; some climb-
ing vigorously if trained to do so, and others forming
compact bushes. Abundance of manure, a deep and well-
dug soil, and mulching with newly-cut grass or some simi-
lar substance to keep them moist in dry weather, joined
to judicious pruning, are needed to bring forth their beau-
ties in perfection. The stronger growers cannot be pruned
severely without greatly diminishing the quantity of their
bloom; but the ends of tall, strong shoots of the same
season’s growth may be cut off with great advantage, thus
checking their growth, and causing them to throw out
small blooming side-shoots.

No roses are better than these where the object is to
produce a late autumnal bloom. They may be made to
bloom into the winter by pinching off their summer flower-
buds, in order that they may not exhaust themselves in
that season, and by sheltering them from the frost. For

forcing, they are unsurpassed.

|
‘
!

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. 18]

Some of the most vigorous varieties would make gor-
geous pillar-roses, provided pains were taken to lay them
flat, and cover them with earth every winter. Without
protection, they would suffer severely in the Northern
States.

AcIDALIE was, till recently, the only white Bourbon; yet
it is not pure white, but has a tinge of blush. Of late,
another white Bourbon has been added, — BLancuE

LaFitTE, —which is also faintly tinged with flesh-color.

_ ADELAIDE BouGk&re is of a rich velvety purple. Dvu-

-petir Tuovars is of a vivid crimson, large and double.

Grorce Praxopy is of a purplish-crimson. Lovisz
OpIER is a rose of very vigorous growth, and one of the
hardier members of the family: its flowers are of a bright
rose-color, of a beautiful cupped form ; and it has a ten-
dency to bloom in clusters. Prince ALBERT is still
hardier. Its color is a brilliant crimson-scarlet, and its
autumn bloom is abundant. Sim JoserpnH Paxton is of
a bright rose-color, tinged with crimson: its growth is
exceedingly vigorous; and, with moderate protection,

it will bear our winters. SOUVENIR DE LA MALMAISON Is

_ unsurpassed among roses. It is very large, and beautifully
formed. It is of a light, transparent flesh-color; and no

rose is more admired in a greenhouse. It will also thrive

182 DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE.

in the open air, and, when the soil is well drained, may
safely be trusted to bear a New-England winter, provided
it is covered with earth. In a wet soil, it is usually killed.
Vorace is of a dark purplish-crimson, and, like the last
named, only partially hardy. Hermosa, or Armosa, re-
sembles a China rose in the character and abundance of
its bloom. None surpasses it for forcing.

The above will serve as favorable examples of the best
types of this group.

“T hope in a few years to see Bourbon roses in every
garden; for ‘the Queen of Flowers’ boasts no member of
her court more beautiful. Their fragrance also is delicate
and pleasing, more particularly in the autumn. They ought
to occupy a distinguished place in the autumnal rose-gar-
den, in clumps or beds, as standards and as pillars. In
any and in all situations, they must and will please. To
insure a very late autumnal bloom, a collection of dwarf
standards, 7.e. stems one to two feet in height, should be
potted in large pots, and, during summer, watered with
manure-water, and some manure kept onthe surface.
Towards the end of September or the middle of October,
if the weather be wet, they may be placed under glass.
They will bloom in fine perfection even as late as Novem-
ber. |

“Tt is difficult to point out roses of this family that bear
seed freely, except the Common Bourbon; but Acidalie,

E

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. 183

planted against a south wall, would probably give some
seed.* If any pollen can be found, it might be fertilized
with the flowers of Julie de Loynes. A pure white and
true Bourbon Rose ought to be the object: therefore it
should not be hybridized with any other species. Bouquet
de Flore may be planted against a south wall with Me-
noux, with which it should be carefully fertilized: some
interesting varieties may be expected from seed thus pro-
duced. Queen of the Bourbons, planted with the yellow
China Rose, might possibly give some seeds; but those
would not produce true Bourbon roses, as the former is a
hybrid, partaking of the qualities of the Tea-scented roses.
Anne Beluze, planted with Madame Nérard, would give
seed from which some very delicate Blush roses might be
raised; and Le Florifére, fertilized with the Common
Bourbon, would also probably produce seed worthy of

attention.” — Rivers.

XK Thos Hiaeew Perreruan Rose

We reach, at length, the vast family of the Hybrid Per-

petuals, —a race of brilliant parvenus, which, within the
last twenty-five years, have risen to throw other roses into
* In America, several varieties bear seed well. Sir Joseph Paxton

rarely fails, and is a very good subject for experiment. The varieties
named above by Mr. Rivers are not, for the most part, of the first merit.

184 DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE.

the shade. As we look upon them, we survey a gor-
geous chaos. Here are innumerable varieties of foliage
and flower, perplexing us in our search for genealogies
and relationships. All of them, however, have, as a basis,
some hardy, once-blooming rose, with which has been min-
gled the blood of one, and often of many, of the ever-
blooming roses, in sufficient proportion to impart some of
their qualities of autumnal flowering. Many of the Hy-
brid Perpetuals have, as their basis, the Hybrid China
Rose, already described under the head of the summer
roses. This, as we have seen, blooms but once; but
when crossed with the China, Tea, Bourbon, Damask
Perpetual, or several of these combined, it becomes
capable of blooming in the autumn, without losing its
hardiness. Such, then, is the origin of this group; and the
diversity of its characteristics answers to the diversity of
its parentage. Thus two roses can scarcely be more un-
like than Baronne Prévost and the Giant of Battles, or
La Reine and Arthur de Sansal. In Baronne Prévost and
La Reine, the hardier and more vigorous elements prevail ;
and they probably owe their ever-blooming qualities to an
infusion of the Damask Perpetual, rather than of the more
tender China roses. In the Giant.of Battles and Arthur

de Sansal, on the contrary, the China and Bourbon ele-

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. 185

ments are very apparent; and, while these roses are excel-
lent autumn bloomers, they are much less hardy and
vigorous than the other two.

M. Laffay, in his garden at Bellevue, a few miles from
Paris, may be said to have laid the foundations of the Hy-
brid Perpetual family. Indeed, to a great extent, he created
it; having originated a great number of beautiful roses,
some of which none of the more recent productions
have been able in the least degree to eclipse. Laffay’s
roses were chiefly of the hardier and stronger type, with
La Reine, which was produced about the year 1840, at
their head.

From the motley character of the group, the lines that
separate it from the Bourbon and from some other families
cannot be definitely drawn; and there are certain varieties
which always hold an equivocal position, being sometimes
placed with one group, and sometimes with another.

These Perpetuals differ greatly in the freedom of their
autumn blooming; some giving a second and third crop of
flowers in abundance; while others will not bloom at all
after midsummer, except under careful and skilful treat-
ment. All require rich culture and good pruning. When
an abundant autumn bloom is required, a portion of the

June bloom must be sacrificed by cutting back about half

186 DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE.

the flower-stems to three or four eyes as soon as the
flower bude form. When the flowers fade, these also
should be cut off with the stems that bear them, in a
similar manner. The formation of the seed-vessels, by
employing the vitality of the plant, tends greatly to dimin-
ish its autumn bloom. Give additional manure every
year, and keep the ground open, and free of weeds. If
rank, strong shoots, full of redundant sap, form in summer,
check their disproportioned growth by cutting off their
tops.

In the North, these roses are better for a little winter
protection, such as earthing them up at the base, or thrust-
ing pine-boughs into.the soil among them. They may
with great advantage be taken up as often as once in three
years, and replanted after two or three shovelfuls of old
manure have been dug into the soil, which, at the same
time, should be forked to the greatest possible depth. In-
deed, it does them no harm to replant them yearly: on
the contrary, they. generally bloom the better for it.

An excellent way to preserve them during winter, when
they have been taken out of the ground, is to bury them,
root and branch, in earth. The earth for this purpose
should not be very moist. The place selected should be
sheltered and dry; the latter point being of the last

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. 187

importance. The roses may be tied in bundles, and the
earth thrown over them to the depth of six inches or
more, in such a manner as to shed the rain and snow; and
if a few boards are placed over it, in a sloping position, it

will be so much the better. In this way, all the half-

hardy roses, and many of those regarded as the most ten-

der, can be safely wintered in the coldest parts of New
England.

It is to the family of Hybrid Perpetuals that the French
rose-growers have given their chief attention. Hence an
enormous multiplication of varieties, every year bringing
forth a new brood, perplexing us with their numbers, and.
by the clamor with which the merits of each and all are
proclaimed by their respective originators. Some of these
new roses are unsurpassed in beauty, and deserve all that
can be said of them. Yet thoroughly to establish the
character of a rose requires several years, — not less than
six, according to the eminent French rose-grower, M.
Jules Margottin: therefore it is impossible to speak with
entire confidence of these novelties. I shall begin with
roses of well-established merit, which have been for years
in cultivation here. Of the rest, which have had not more
than a season’s trial, mention will be made afterwards.

La Retvz is perhaps entitled to the first mention, as it

188 DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE.

was one of the first in its origin, and has never since lost
ground. It varies very much in quality with circumstances
of soil and cultivation, and in its color is surpassed
by many other roses. Its very large size when well grown,
its fine form and perfect hardiness, are its points of merit.
It is the mother of a numerous progeny, among which
AveustE Mir is one of the best, growing very vigorously,
and bearing flowers equal to those of its parent in beauty
of form, and superior in delicacy of color. They are of a
fine rose-color, several shades lighter than that of La
Reine. Lovuts—e PEyRonNEY also, in many respects, sur-
passes her parent; and is a rose of great beauty, though
scarcely so vigorous as La Reine. Baronne Prévosrt is
another hardy and vigorous rose, of a type wholly differ-
ent: it grows with great vigor, bears the rudest winter,
and, both in June and in the autumnal months, yields an
abundance of large, very double flowers of a light rose-
color. Prus IX. has the same vigor of constitution, and
the same abundant bloom: its flowers are of a deep rose,
tinged with crimson. Dr. Arnoxp is of a deeper color,
approaching to crimson, and is one of the best autumn
bloomers. Mapamer Botz is a superb rose, very vigorous,
very hardy, and very double. L’Enrant pu Mr. Carmen

somewhat resembles it, but grows and blooms more freely :

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. 189

its color is a rosy crimson. JuLEsS Marcortin has no
superior in its way: it is of a clear, rosy-crimson color,
and its half-opened buds are especially beautiful. Trr-
OMPHE DE L’ExposirIon is of a deep crimson; and Souvz-
NIR DE LA REINE D’ANGLETERRE, Of a bright rose: both
are very vigorous and very effective. GENERAL JACQUE-
MINOT is of a fine crimson, and, though not perfectly
double, is, nevertheless, one of the most splendid of roses.
Its size, under good culture, is immense. It is a strong
grower and abundant bloomer, and glows like a firebrand
among the paler hues around it. It is one of the hardier
kinds, and is easily managed. Its offspring are innumer-
able. The greater part of the new roses of the last year
or two own it as a parent, and inherit some of its qualities.
Of its older progeny, TrIompHE DES Breaux Arts and the
ORIFLAMME DE St. Louis may be mentioned with honor.
The last, especially, is a very brilliant rose. Among other
dleep-colored roses are TRIOMPHE DE Paris, GLOIRE DE
SANTENAY, and GENERAL WASHINGTON; the last a seed-
ling from Triomphe de Exposition. It is a new rose;
but there can be little doubt of its merit.

Perhaps no rose among the Hybrid Perpetuals has been
so famous, and so much praised, as the Grant or BATTLES;

but we cannot fully echo the commendations bestowed

190 DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE.

upon it. All the roses just named are hardy, vigorous,
and of easy culture, available to the half-practised amateur
as well as to the experienced cultivator. But the class of
Hybrid Perpetuals of which the Giant of Battles is the
type, and, to a great extent, the parent, requires more skill
and precaution for successful culture. They are all more
or less liable to mildew. “I can do nothing with the
Giant, because the mildew destroys it,” a well-known —
nursery-man writes me. Besides this tendency, it is by
no means of the vigorous growth which the catalogues of
nursery-men commonly ascribe to it. Its flowers, how-
ever, are very brilliant, and, in a favorable season, are pro-
duced in abundance. Im color, they resemble those of
General Jacqueminot. Some of the seedlings raised from
them are much darker; and among these may be men-
tioned ARTHUR DE SANSAL, CARDINAL PatTrizzi, and the
Emperor OF Morocco. Lorp Raetan is one of the very
finest flowers of this section; and the plant is more vigor-
ous, and less liable to mildew, than the rest of the group.
The following are of the lighter and more delicate
shades: CAROLINE DE SANSAL is of a clear flesh-color,
large, full, and of a vigorous, hardy constitution. Mapame
VipotT is, when in perfection, an exquisite rose, of a trans-

parent, waxy, flesh color, and formed like a camellia: it

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. 191

has not proved hardy here, and has suffered severely every
winter. QvuEEN VicrorRi4 is of a better constitution: it.
is white, shaded with pink. Wutuiam GrirFiTus is an
old and excellent rose, of a peculiar light satin rose-color:
it rarely suffers from the winter. VirGrNat is pure white.
La Mire pve Sr. Louis is of a waxy flesh-color, and,
though not very full, is distinct and beautiful. Mapame
Rivers is of a very light rose. ComTESSE DE CHABRIL-
LANT is of a clear pink, and very fine. Mapame Knorr
is of a somewhat deeper shade, and singularly beautiful in
bud. Louise Macnan and Dr. Henon may, with Vir-
ginal, in the absence of better, represent the white Hybrid
Perpetuals, — a color in which this class is very defi-
cient; while a yellow or buff rose is as yet unknown in it,
although it is said that such an one has been produced,
and will soon be “ brought out.”

The following are a selection from the new roses; and,
though their merits have not as yet been tried by the test
of time, there can be very little doubt that all of them will
prove of the highest merit : —

Mavrice Brernarpin is of a bright vermilion, very
large and full. Cuaries Lerepyez is of a bright crimson,
purplish at the centre, and seems an admirable rose. Mrs.

Wituiam Paut is of a violet-red, shaded with crimson.

192 DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE.

Mapame CLimence JoIGNEAvx is of a red and lilac color,
and grows with great vigor. Lorp Macautay is of a
rich scarlet-crimson: a bloom of it is now before me,
cut here, in the open air, on the 22d of October.
SG@uR DES ANGES owes its singular name to the delicacy
of its tint, — a soft flesh-color; yet the habit of the plant is
vigorous, and it seems of a hardy nature. Duc pz Rowan
is red, shaded with vermilion. Braury or WatLrTHam,
an English seedling like Lord Macaulay, is of a bright
carmine, and blooms profusely. Mapamse Furrapo is
very large, fragrant, and double: its color is a light
rosy-crimson. Lr Raonz is of a brilliant and deep ver-
milion. Duc pr Cazes is of a purplish crimson, so deep
as almost to appear black. PResipenT LINCOLN is cherry-
red. Princess or WALES is a recent seedling of Mr.
William Paul, the English rose-grower; and, though I
have not yet seen it in flower, it is so highly extolled by
an English amateur, that I mention it here. It is of a
bright crimson, with thick and firm petals, and said to be
very hardy. SrnatTEvuR VatssE is of a brilliant red, and
has found numerous admirers. Victor VERDIER is car-
mine, shaded with purple, large and showy. Louise Mar-
GOTTIN is of a delicate, glossy rose-color, beautifully

formed; and, though marked of moderate growth on

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. 193

foreign catalogues, it has grown with uncommon vigor
here. Prince Camitie pg Rowan is of a deep maroon
approaching crimson. It is very large and full.

The above comprise the flowers of most brilliant prom-
ise among the recent novelties. Many others willbe
mentioned in the supplementary list.

The Hybrid Perpetuals combine merits so numerous
and so brilliant, that they are rapidly driving out of culti-
vation many roses once in the highest esteem. Indeed,
with the exception of Moss roses, and some of the Teas,
Noisettes, and Bourbons, none seem likely to maintain
their ground before these gorgeous upstarts, some of
which are as robust as they are beautiful. Their beauties,
however, depend greatly on their culture; and this is true
of all roses. A rose which, under indifferent treatment,
will be passed unnoticed, puts on, in the hands of a good
cultivator, its robes of royalty, and challenges from all
beholders the homage due to the Queen of Flowers.

In conclusion, the amateur will do well to make this his
golden rule: Cultivate none but the best, and cultivate
them thoroughly. Thoroughness is at the bottom of all
horticultural success.

“ Raising new varieties of this family from seed presents
io}

an extensive field of interest to the amateur; for we have
13

194 DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE.

yet to add to our catalogues pure white and yellow and
fawn-colored Hybrid Perpetuals: and these, I anticipate,
will be the reward of those who persevere. Monsieur
Laffay, by persevering through two or three generations,
obtained a mossy Hybrid Bourbon rose, and. many of the
finest varieties described in the foregoing pages. This in-
formation will, I trust, be an incentive to amateurs in this -
country. To illustrate this, I may here remark, that a
yellow Ayrshire Rose, now a desideratum, must not be
expected from the first trial; but probably a climbing rose,
tinged with yellow or buff, may be the fruit of the first.
crossing. This variety must again be crossed with a
yellow rose: the second generation will, perhaps, be
nearer the end wished for. Again: the amateur must
bring perseverance and skill into action; and then, if in
the third generation a bright yellow climbing rose be
obtained, its possession will amply repay the labor be-
stowed. But these light gardening operations are not
labor: they are a delightful amusement to a refined mind,
and lead it to reflect on the wonderful infinities of Nature.

“Madame Laffay is an excellent seed-bearing rose: this
may be fertilized with the Bourbon Gloire de Rosoménes
and with Comte Bobrinsky. Dr. Marx may be crossed
with the Bourbon Paul Joseph and with the Bourbon Le
Grenadier. These should all be planted against a south
wall, so that their flowers expand at the same time; and
they will probably give some fine autumnal roses, brilliant

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. 195

in color, and very double. For fawn-colored, or yellowish
and white roses, Duchess of Sutherland may be fertilized
with the Tea-scented roses Victoria and Safrano. These
must all have a south wall. These hints may possibly be
considered meagre and incomplete; but I trust it will be
seen how much depends upon the enterprise and taste of
the cultivator.” — Rivers.

Rosa Bracteata.— The original species was brought to
England from China by Lord Macartney in 1795. The
varieties are few, and very distinct in appearance from
other roses. The leaves are small, and of a deep shining
green. This rose is not hardy, even in England; at least,
the old varieties of it are not so: but one has lately been
sent me, under the formidable appellation of Rosa Brac-
TEATA ALBA VENUSTA, which is reported to have proved
hardy in New Jersey.

The Macartney roses are of a climbing habit, and ever-
ereen.

Apa Oporata is white, with a yellow centre. The
flowers are double. Apa Simpiex is a single white.

Marta Leonia is white, with a blush centre, and is the

196 DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE.

best of the group. There is a hybrid rose raised by M.
Hardy, of the Luxembourg Garden, and known by the
name of BerseriroLtiA Harpo. From its resemblance
to this division, it is commonly placed with it, though
not properly belonging here. It is a pretty rose, with
bright yellow flowers, marked with a chocolate spot
in the centre; but it is not hardy, nor is it easy of

culture.

Rosa Levigata.— No foreign work on the Rose in-
cludes this species among fhose held worthy of culture ;
yet in our Southern States, where it is naturalized, it is
singularly beautiful. In the North it is not hardy, though
the root commonly survives the winter, while the stem
and branches are destroyed. It comes originally from
China. Its shoots and leaves resemble those of the Bank-
sia Rose; the former being long, pendulous, and graceful,
and the latter of the most vivid green. Its flowers are
single, very large, and of the purest waxy white, in the
midst of which appears the bright yellow of the clustering

stamens. Its long, slender, tapering buds are unsurpassed

DESCRIPTION OF TRE ROSE. 197

in beauty. It thrives admirably in a cvol greenhouse,
climbing with a rampant growth over the rafters, and giv-
ing furth a profusion of flowers through the greater part
of the winter. Unlike all the other roses described in
this book, it is a species in its originai, undeveloped
state, and, as such, offers a tempting subject for the art

of the hybridist.

Rosa Microphylla.—This is an introduction within
the present century from the Himalaya Mountains, and is
rather a curiosity than an ornament. The leaves are very
small and very numerous; and, by a curious freak of
Nature, all the spines seem gathered together on the calyx,
or outer covering of the flower-buds. The original vari-
ety, Micropnytta Rusra, is perhaps the best. Among
others may be named CaRNEA, COoccINEA, RosgEa, and
PURPUREA.

There is a rose, commonly sold under the name of
Micropuyiia Ruaosa, which is very desirable from the
abundance of its autumnal bloom, and from its hardy

nature; a point in which it differs from the true Micra

198 DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE.

phyllas. It grows vigorously, and in autumn blooms

profusely ia large clusters of purplish-red flowers.

EKke Kecpeak Nor oser.

Rosa Centifolia.—This is a group of Moss roses to
which, by hybridization, has been communicated some of
the character of the autumn-blooming roses. The power
of repeated blooming has, however, in some cases, been
acquired at the expense of the distinctive characteristic of
the Moss Rose; and few of this group are so well mossed
as the parent to which they owe their name. One of the
best is SaLetT, which is of a bright rose-color, tolerably
well mossed, a vigorous grower, and an excellent autumn
bloomer. Mapame Enouarp Ory is of a somewhat
brighter hue, but by no means equal in vigor. The Pzr-
PETUAL WuitrE Moss is better deserving of the name of
Moss than either of the others. It is double, blooms in
clusters, and grows vigorously. Besides these, there are
many other varieties, most of them indifferent.

These roses require the same culture with the Hybrid
Perpetuals. Their power of autumnal blooming is in-

creased by high enrichment and frequent transplanting.

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROSE. 199

Rosa Spinosissima.—The Perpetual Scotch is a group '
of the well-known Scotch roses, endowed, probably by
hybridization, with a power of blooming twice or more in
the year. None of them are of much value except STAN-
WELL, which is of a blush color, double, prettily cupped,

and very fragrant.

Here closes our list of Autumnal roses, and with it our
book. In conclusion, we would remind the cultivator,
that although, even under neglect and scorn, the Rose has
smiles for all, it:is only to a loving and constant suitor
that she clothes herself in all her beauty. Among all the
flowers of our gardens, none is more grateful for a careful
attention, and none more abundantly rewards it.

ROSES

MOST APPROVED BY THE BEST CULTIVATORS
TES PRESENT DAY,

IN ADDITION TO
*

Those already mentioned under their respective Classes.

PROVENCE ROSES.

MADAME HENRIETTE, ROSY-PINK, VERY LARGE AND BEAUTIFUL,
MADAME L’ABBEY, BRIGHT ROSE, LARGE AND FULL,

ROYAL, PALE PINK, GLOBULAR AND LARGE, VERY FINE.

WHITE PROVENCE, PURE WHITE, LARGE AND FULL,

MOSS ROSES.

e .

ADYLE PAVIE, BLUSH,

ARISTIDES, BRIGHT CRIMSON,

ARTHUR YONG,

AQTNA, BRILLIANT CRIMSON, TINTED WITH PURPLE.
q FL“LICITE BOHAIN, BRIGHT ROSE, LARGE AND FULL.

OF

; GRACILIS, OR PROLIFIC, DEEP PINK, FREE BLOOMER, LARGE AND FULL,

HENRI MARTIN, SHADED VELVETY CARMINE, GOOD,
q JAMES MITCHELL, ROSE-SHADED, FULL,
3 JcHN CRANSTON, CRIMSON-SHADED, FULL,
JULIE DE’ MERSENT, ROSE, SHADED WITH BLUSH.
LATONE, BLUSH, LARGE AND FULL.

MARIE DE BLOIS, ROSY-LILAC, LARGE AND FULL.
201

202 LIST OF ROSES.

MADAME DE LA ROCHELAMBERT, AMARANTH, LARGE AND FULL.

POMPON (MOSS DE MEAUX), BLUSH, PEACH CENTRE, PRETTY, SMALL AND
FULL.

PRINCESS ALICE, BLUSH, PINK CENTRE,

PRINCESSE ROYALE, SALMON-FLESH, FULL, FINE FORM,

PRINCESSE DE VAUDEMONT, PINK, GOOD.

PURPUREA RUBRA, PURPLE, LARGE AND FULL.

REINE BLANCHE, PURE WHITE, LARGE AND FULL.

UNIQUE, PURE WHITE, LARGE AND FULL.

WILLIAM LOBB, VELVETY-LAKE, VERY DISTINCT,

DAMASK ROSES.

CALYPSO, SHADED PINK, LARGE AND GOOD.

COLUMELLA, BRIGHT ROSE, LARGE, FULL.

HELVETIUS, SHADED ROSY-CRIMSON, VERY LARGE AND GOOD.
MARIQUITA, WHITE, LIGHTLY SHADED, BEAUTIFUL.

ALBA ROSES.

BLANCHEFLEUR, WHITE.
BLUSH HIP, DELICATE BLUSH, EXQUISITE IN BUD, FULL.
PRINCESSE LAMBALLE, WHITE.

GALLICA ROSES

ASPASIE, BEAUTIFUL FLESH, CHANGING TO BLUSH, FINE FORM.

BARON CUVIER, ROSY-CRIMSON, GOOD SHAPE.

BIZARRE MARBREE, MOTTLED CRIMSON, LARGE AND VERY FINE.

COLONEL COOMBES, LIGHT CRIMSON, SHADED WITH PURPLE, VERY LAKGE
AND FULL.

COMTE PLATER, CREAMY-BLUSH, SPLENDID.

COMTESSE DE SEGUR, PALE FLESH, CLEAR AND BEAUTIFUL, FULL, FINE.

DOCTEUR DEILTHEIM, ROSE, OFTEN SHADED WITH PURPLE, VERY LARGE
AND FULL. ,

LA CALAISIENNE, DELICATE PINK, LARGE AND BEAUTIFUL.

LA VILLE DE LONDRES, SHADED ROSE, VERY LARGE AND GOOD,

VV —s- =

LIST OF ROSES. 203

LA VoLUPTE, OR LETITIA, BRIGHT ROSE, LARGE AND FULL,

LOUIS PHILIPPE, PINKISH-BLUSH, LIGHT MARGIN,

MADAME DUBERRY, MOTTLED CRIMSON-LAKE,

PRINCE REGENT, DEEP ROSE, SUPERB, LARGE AND FULL.

WILLIAM TELL, BRIGHT ROSE, EDGES BLUSH, VERY LARGE AND FULL.

HYBRID CHINA ROSES.

CoMTE BOUBERT, LIGHT ROSE, LARGE AND VERY DOUBLE.

COMTESSE LACEPEDE, SILVERY-BLUSH, FLESH CENTRE, LARGE AND FULL

COMTESSE MOLE, DELICATE ROSY-PINK, BEAUTIFUL.

ELISE MERCUR, PALE-SHADED ROSE, BEAUTIFUL.

FIMBRIATA, ROSY-CRIMSON, PETALS FRINGED AT EDGES,

FREDERICK THE SECOND, RICH CRIMSON-PURPLE, LARGE AND DOUBLE.

GENERAL ALLARD, FINE DEEP ROSE, VERY DOUBLE.

GENERAL LAMORICIERE, ROSE, FINE FORM, LARGE AND FULL, FINE,

GREAT \VESTERN, BRIGHT REDDISH-CRIMSON, BEAUTIFUL.

JENNY, MOTILED ROSY-PINK.

JUNO, PALE ROSE, BLUSH EDGES, VERY LARGE AND FULL,

LADY STUART, SILVERY-BLUSH, FINE FORM, MEDIUM.AND FULL.

MADELINE (EMMELINE), PALE FLESH, EDGED WITH CRIMSON, BEAUTIFUL,
LARGE, AND VERY DOUBLE.

NATHALIE DANIEL, PINK, FINE.

_ PERFECTION, DELICATE PINK, FINE FORM.

STADTHOLDER, SHADED PINK, VERY GOOD.

TRIOMPHE EN BEAUTE, DEEP-SHADED ROSE, GLOBULAR AND BEAUTIFUL.

TRIOMPHE DE LAQUEUE, PURPLISH-ROSE, LARGE AND SPLENDID.

WILLIAM JESSE, PURPLISH-CRIMSON, TINGED WITH LILAC, SUPERB, VERY
LARGE AND VERY DOUBLE,

AUTUMNAL ROSES.

CHINA ROSES.

AbBt MICLAND, FINE CRIMSON-RED, GOOD,
ANTHEROS, CREAMY-WHITE, LARGE AND FULL.

204 LIST OF ROSES.

BELLE DE FLORENCE, LIGHT CARMINE, BLOOMS IN LARGE CLUSTERS.

ELIsE FLEURY, FINE ROSE, LARGE AND FULL.

HENRY THE FIFTH, VIVID SCARLET, VERY GOOD.

ILA FRAICHEUR, ROSY-WHITE, CENTRE YELLOWISH.

MADAME DESPREZ, WHITE, CENTRE LEMON.

MARJOLIN DE LUXEMBOURG, DARK CRIMSON, SUPERB, VERY LARGE AND
FULL.

MIELLEZ, LEMON-WHITE, GOOD.

PRINCE CHARLES, BRIGHT CHERRY, VERY DOUBLE.-

TANCREDE, FINE ROSY-PURPLE, DISTINCT, LARGE AND FULL,

VIRIDIFLORA, GREEN, CURIOUS.

TEA-SCENTED ROSES.

ABRICOTEE, FAWN, APRICOT CENTRE, LARGE AND DOUBLE.

ADAM, BLUSH-ROSE, VERY SWEET, VERY LARGE AND FULL.

ALBA ROSA, WHITE, CENTRE ROSE, LARGE, FULL, AND VERY SWEET.

AMABILIS, FLESH-COLOR, LARGE AND FULL.

ARCHIMEDE, ROSY-FAWN, DARKER CENTRE, LARGE AND FULL.

AUGUSTE OGER, ROSE, CENTRE COPPER.

AUGUSTE VACHER, YELLOW, SHADED WITH COPPER-COLOR, LARGE ANwv
FULL.

BELLE CHARTRONNAISE, RED, CHANGING TO CRIMSON, LARGE AND FULL.

BELLE DE BORDEAUX, PINK, LARGE AND FULL, HABIT AND GROWTH OF
GLOIRE DE DIJON.

BRIDE OF ABYDOS, WHITE, SHADED WITH PINK, LARGE.

BURET, BRIGHT ROSY-PURPLE, DISTINCT, LARGE AND FULL.

CAROLINE, BLUSH-PINK, CENTRE DELICATE ROSE, LARGE AND FULL,

CLARA SYLVAIN, PURE WHITE, CENTRE CREAM, LARGE AND FULL,

CLIMBING DEVONIENSIS, IDENTICAL WITH THE OLD DEVONIENSIS LW
FLOWER, BUT OF A RAPID RUNNING GROWTH, AND HENCE VALUABLE
AS A CLIMBER.

COMTE DE PARIS, FLESH COLORED ROSE, SUPERB, VERY LARGE AND
FULL.

COMTESSE DE BROSSARD, BRIGHT YELLOW, LARGE AND FULL.

COMTESSE DE LABARTHE, SALMON-PINK.

COMTESSE OUVAROFB, ROSE-SHADED, LARGE AND FULL.

LIST OF ROSES. 205

DAVID PKADEL, ROSE, LARGE AND FULL,

DeLPHINE GAUDOT, WHITE, LARGE AND DOUBLE.

Duc DE MAGENTA, SALMON, VERY LARGE AND FULL,

ELISE SAUVAGE, YELLOW, CENTRE ORANGE, BEAUTIFUL, LARGE AND
FULL. .

ENFANT DE LYON, PALE YELLOW, LARGE AND FULL.

EUGENF DESGACHES, CLEAR ROSE, BEAUTIFUL, LARGE AND FULL, VERY
SWEET.

GENERAL TARTAS, DARK ROSE, LARGE AND FULL,

GERARD 3 ESBOIS, BRIGHT RED, LARGE AND FULL, VERY SHOWY.

GLOIRE DE BORDEAUX, SILVERY-ROSE, THE BACK OF THE PETALS ROSY,
VERY LARGE AND FULL.

GOUBAULT, BRIGHT ROSE, CENTRE BUFF, VERY LARGE AND DOUBLE.

GRANDIFLORA, SHADED ROSE, VERY LARGE AND DOUBLE.

HOMER, ROSE, CENTRE SALMON, VARIABLE, LARGE, FULL, AND GOOD.

JAUNE D’OR, FINE GOLDEN-YELLOW, OF MEDIUM SIZE, FULL, FORM GLOB
ULAR.

JAUNE OF SMITH (YELLOW NOISETTE), STRAW-COLOR, LARGE AND FULL.

JULIE MANSAIS, PURE WHITE, LARGE AND FULL.

LA BouLE D’OR, DEEP GOLDEN-YELLOW, LARGE AND FULL.

LAIS, PALE YELLOW, FULL, OF FINE FORM, BLOOMS FREELY.

L’ENFANT TROUVE, FINE, LARGE, PALE YELLOW.

LE PACTOLE, PALE YELLOW.

LOUISE DE SAVOIE, FINE YELLOW, LARGE AND FULL.

MADAME BLACHET, PALE ROSE, MEDIUM AND DOUBLE.

MADAME BRAVY, CREAMY-WHITE, LARGE AND FULL, PERFECT SHAPE,

MADAME CHARLES, SULPHUR-YELLOW, SALMON CENTRE, LARGE, FULL,
AND OF GOOD FORM, FREE BLOOMER.

MADAME DE SERTOT, CREAM, GOOD.

MADAME DE ST. JOSEPH, SALMON-PINK, BEAUTIFUL, VERY LARGE AND
DOUBLE, VERY SWEET,

MADAME DE TARTAS, BRIGHT ROSE, LARGE AND FULL, FREE BLOOMER.

MADAME DE VATRY, DEEP ROSE, LARGE AND FULL,

MADAME FALOCOT, YELLOW, IN THE WAY OF SAFRANO, BUT OF A DEEPER
SHADE, AND MORE DOUBLE.

MADAME HALPHIN, SALMON-PINK, CENTRE YELLOWISH, LARGE AND FULL.

206 LIST OF ROSES.

MADAME LARTAY, YELLOW, SHADED WITH SALMON, LARGE AND FTL",
MADAME VILLERMOZ, WHITE, CENTRE SALMON, LARGE, FULL, AND GOOD,
MADEMOISELIE ADELE JOUGANT, CLEAR YELLOW, MEDIUM SIZE.
MADAME MAURIN, WHITE, SHADED WITH SALMON, LARGE AND FULL.
MADAME PAULINE LABONTE, SALMON, LARGE AND FULL.

MARECHAL BUGEAUD, BRIGHT ROSE, LARGE AND FULL.

MARECHAL NIEL, BEAUTIFUL DEEP YELLOW, LARGE, FULL, AND OF GLO-
ULAR FORM, VERY SWEET, THE SHOOTS WELL CLOTHED WITH LARGE
SHINING LEAVES.

MARQUISE DE FOUCAULT, WHITE, FAWN, AND YELLOW, VARIABLE, LARGE
AND DOUBLE, ONE OF THE BEST.

MIRABILE, PALE YELLOW, EDGES DARK ROSE, PRETTY, DISTINCT.

NARCISSE, FINE PALE YELLOW, LARGE AND FULL,

NINA, BLUSH ROSE, FINE, LARGE AND DOUBLE.

NISIDA, ROSE AND YELLOW SHADED, LARGE AND DOUBLE,

ODORATA, BLUSH, CENTRE ROSE, LARGE AND FULL.

PRESIDENT, ROSE, SHADED WITH SALMON, VERY LARGE, AND OF GOOD
FORM.

PRINCESS ADELAIDE, YELLOW, LARGE AND FULL,

PRINCESSE MARIE, ROSY-PINK, LARGE AND FULL, FORM GLOBULAR,

REGULUS, BRIGHT ROSE, SHADED WITH COPPER, LARGE AND FULL.

REINE DES PAYS BAS, PALE SULPHUR, FREE BLOOMER.

RUBENS, WHITE, SHADED WITH ROSE, YELLOWISH CENTRE, LARGE, FULL,
AND FINE FORM.

SOCRATES, DEEP ROSE, CENTRE APRICOT, LARGE, FULL.

SOMBREUIL, WHITE, TINGED WITH ROSE, VERY LARGE AND FULL.

SCUVENIR DE DAVID, BRIGHT CHERRY-COLOR, DISTINCT AND GOOD.

SOUVENIR D’ELISE VARDON, CREAMY-WHITE, CENTRE YELLOWISH, VERY
LARGE AND FULL; A SPLENDID ROSE.

SOUVENIR DE MADEMOISELLE EUGENIE PERNET, WHITE, TINGED WITH
FLESH-COLOR, AND SHADED WITH ROSE-SALMON, LARGE, FULL, AND
OF GOOD, HARDY HABIT,

TRIOMPHE DE GUILLOT FILS, WHITE, SHADED WITH ROSE AND SALMON,
VERY LARGE, FULL, AND SWEET; ONE OF THE BEST.

TRIOMPHE DU LUXEMBOURG, COPPERY-ROSE, SUPERB, VERY LARGE ANT
FULL,

> a. - ee

LIST OF ROSES. 207

VICOMTESSE DE CAZES, YELLOW, CENTRE DEEPER YELLOW, TINTED WITH
COPPER-COLOR, LARGE AND VERY DOUBLE.
VICTORIA, YELLOW, CHANGING TO WHITE, LARGE AND FULL.

NOISETTE ROSES.

ADELE PAVIE, WHITE, ROSE CENTRE.

AIMEE VIBERT SCANDENS, PURE WHITE, LARGE CLUSTERS.

BAKONNE DE MAYNARD, FRENCH WHITE, BEAUTIFULLY CUPPED.

BLANCHE DE SOLVILLE, CREAMY-WHITE, TINGED PINK, STRONG GROWER

CELINE FORESTIER, PALE YELLOW, FREE BLOOMER, LARGE AND FULL,

CERISE, ROSY-PURPLE, VERY GOOD.

CLAUDIE AUGUSTIN, WHITE, WITH YELLOWISH CENTRE,

CORNELIA KOCH, PALE YELLOW, VERY FULL AND FINE FORM.

DESPREZ A FLEUR JAUNE, RED, BUFF, AND SULPHUR, VARIABLE, VERY
SWEET, LARGE AND FULL.

Du LUXEMBOURG, LILAC-ROSE, CENTRE DEEP RED, LARGE.

ECLAIR DE JUPITER, BRIGHT CRIMSON-SCARLET, LARGE AND DOUBLE.

EUPHROSINE, CREAMY-BUFF, VERY SWEET AND GOOD.

FELLENBERG, ROSY-CRIMSON, VERY FREE BLOOMER.

JANE HARDY, GOLDEN-YELLOW, LARGE AND FULL.

JACQUES ORMYOTT, DEEP ROSE, FINE,

LA BICHE, FLESH-WHITE, LARGE AND FULL.

LADY EMILY PEEL, SHADED FRENCH WHITE.

LAIS, FRENCH WHITE, LARGE AND GOOD.

MADAME DESLONGCHAMPS, CREAMY-WHITE, DEEPER CENTRE, BEAUTIFUL.

MADAME GUSTAVE BONNET, WHITE, TINGED WITH SALMON, FIRST CLASS.

MADAME SCHULTZ, PRIMROSE, SHADED WITH CARMINE, VERY SWEET.

MADEMOISELLE ARISTIDE, PALE YELLOW, CENTRE SALMON, LARGE AND
FULL. |

NARCISSE, FINE PALE YELLOW.

OCTAVIE, CRIMSON, LARGE, STRONG GROWER.

OPHIRIE, NANKEEN AND COPPER, DISTINCT, FULL.

PHALOE, ROSY-BUFF, VERY GOOD.

PUMILA ALBA, WHITE, SMALL AND DOUBLE,

TRIOMPHE DE LA DUCHERE, ROSY-BLUSH, LARGE AND FULL

TRIOMPHE DE RENNES, CANARY, LARGE, FULL, AND FINE.

VICOMTESSE D’AVESNE, LIGHT SALMON-ROSE, LARGE, FULL, AND DISTINCT,

208 LIST OF ROSES.

BOURBON ROSES.

APPOLINE, LIGHT PINK, LARGE AND FULL.

AURORE DU GUIDE, PURPLISH-VIOLET, SOMETIMES CRIMSON-SCARLET
LARGE AND FULL.

BARONNE DE NOIRMONT, PALE, SHADED ROSE, COMPACT AND GOOD,

BOUQUET DE FLORE, BRIGHT ROSY-CARMINE.

CATHERINE GUILLOT, BRIGHT ROSY-PINK, COMPACT, AND FIRST-RATE.

CELINE GONOD.

CHARLES ROBIN, FLESH-COLOR, SMALL, FULL, AND PRODUCED ABUN-
DANTLY.

COMICE DE TARNE ET GARONNE, CHERRY-COLOR.

COMTE DE MONTIJO, RICH REDDISH-PURPLE, VELVETY, FINE SHAPE.

COMTESSE DE BARBANTANNES, FLESH-COLOR, LARGE, FULL, AND OF FINE
FORM.

DOCTEUR BERTHET, BRILLIANT CHERRY RED, LARGE, FULL, AND GOOD.

DOCTEUR LEPRESTE, BRIGHT PURPLISH-RED, SHADED,

Duc DE CRILLON, BRILLIANT RED, CHANGING TO BRIGHT ROSE, LARGE
AND FULL.

EDITH DE MURAT, FLESH-COLOR, CHANGING TO WHITE, OF FINE FORM.

EMOTION, DELICATE SHADED BLUSH, COMPACT AND GOOD.

EMPRESS EUGENIE, PALE ROSE, PURPLE EDGES, LARGE AND FULL, GOOD.

FERDINAND DIEPPE, REDDISH-VIOLET, BRIGHT AND GOOD.

GEORGE CUVIER, BRIGHT ROSE, FINE FORM, LARGE AND FULL,

GLOIRE DE ROSOMENES, BRIGHT CRIMSON, SEMI-DOUBLE, BUT EFFECTIVE,

GLORIETTA, DEEP RED, OR CRIMSON,

GOURDAULT, RICH PURPLE, FINE FORM, FULL.

JOSEPHINE CLERMONT, PINK, FULL.

JULIE DE FONTENELLE, CRIMSON-PURPLE, FINE FORM, FULL,

JUSTINE, ROSY-CARMINE, GOOD, VERY DOUBLE.

L’AVENIR, BRIGHT ROSE, LARGE, FULL, AND OF GOOD FORM.

LA QUINTINIE, BRIGHT CRIMSON, SHADED, OR CHANGING TO BLACKISH-
VIOLET, FULL.

LE FLORIFERE, ROSE, WITH A LILAC AND CRIMSON TINT, LARGE AND
FULL.

LEON OURSEL, LIGHT RED, LARGE, FULL, AND GOOD.

LovuIsE MARGOTTIN, BEAUTIFUL BRIGHT ROSY-PINK, CUPPED AND GOOD,

LIST OF ROSES. 209

MADAME ANGELINA, RICH CREAM, FAWN CENTRE, MEDIUM SIZE, DISs-
TINCT.

MADAME COUSIN, FLESH-COLORED ROSE, LARGE AND FULL.

MADAME Dk STELLA, DELICATE PINK, VERY DOUBLE, FINE SHAPE, FIRST
CLASS. ; =

MADAME DESPREZ, LILAC-ROSE, LARGE AND FULL.

MADAME ELISE DE CHENIER, 2PIGHT ROSE, BLOOMS FREELY,

MADAME HELFENBEIN, PALE ROSH, VERY GOOD,

MADAME JOSEPHINE GUYET, DEEP RED.

MADAME LA COMTESSE, BRIGHT PINK, FINE SHAPE,

MADAME MANOEL, LIGHT-SHADED PINK, VERY LARGE,

MADAME MARECHAL, FLESH, WHITE EDGES, DISTINCT AND GOOD,

MADAME NERARD, SILVERY-BLUSH, CENTRE PINK.

MADEMOISELLE C. RIGUET, PURE WHITE, VERY ABUNDANT BLOOMER.

MADEMOISELLE FELICITE TRUILLOT, BRIGHT ROSE, ABUNDANT BLOOMER,

MARGUERITE BONNET, FLESHY-WHITE, LARGE AND GOOD,

MARQUIS BALBIANO, ROSE, TINGED WITH SILVER, FULL, FINE FORM, DIS-
TINCT.

MARQUIS D’IVRY, LILAC-ROSE, FORMS A LARGE AND SHOWY HEAD.

MARQUIS DE MOYRA, ROSE, SHADED WITH'VERMILION, FINE FORM, LARGE,

MARQUIS DE MURAT, PINK, PALE EDGES. :

MENOUX, BRIGHT RED, APPROACHING TO SCARLET, FULL.

MICHEL BONNET, BRIGHT ROSY-PINK, FINE,

MODELE DE PERFECTION, DELICATE PINK, COMPACT, AND MOST BEAU-
TIFUL.

MONSIEUR JARD, CHERRY-RED, LARGE AND FULL.

OcTAVIE FONTAINE, WHITE, TINTED WITH FLESH-COLOR, GOOD SHAPE,

OMAR PACHA, BRILLIANT RED, LARGE, FULL, AND GOOD FORM,

PHENIX, PURPLISH-RED, LARGE AND FINE.

PIERRE DF ST, CYR, PINK, LARGE AND FULL.

PRINCE DE CHIMAY, PURPLISH-CRIMSON, LARGE AND FINE, FLOWERS

' FREELY,

QUEEN, BUFF-ROSE, FREE BLOOMER, LARGE AND DOUBLE,

REINE DE CASTILLE, LIGHT ROSE, GOOD,

Rev. H. DOMBRAIN, BRILLIANT CARMINE, FINE SHAPE.

REVEIL, CHERRY, RICHLY SHADED WITH VIOLET.

SOUCHET, DEEP CRIMSON-PURPLE, VIVID, SUPERB.

14.

210 LIST OF ROSES.

SOUVENIR DE LOUIS GAUDIN, REDDISH-PURPLE, SHADED WITH BLACK,
FINE FORM, FULL, ABUNDANT BLOOMER.

VICOMTE DE CUSSY, LIVELY RED, LARGE, AND VERY DOU}LE,

VICTOR EMANUEL, PURPLE AND PURPLISH-MALCON, LARGE AND DOUBLE,
GOOD AND DISTINCT,

HYBRID PERPETUAL ROSKS.

ABBE REYNAUD, CLEAR DARK VIOLET, LARGE, FULL, DISTINCT, AND FINE;
GOOD HABIT,

ABD-EL-KADER, DEEP VELVETY-CRIMSON, GOOD.

ADMIRAL NELSON, CRIMSON, COLOR BEAUTIFUL.

ADOLPHE NOBLET, ROSY-CARMINE, VERY BEAUTIFUL.

AGATOIDE, LIVELY ROSE, SHADED WITH DEEP ROSE, FULL.

ALCIDE VIGNERON, BRIGHT ROSE, LARGE AND FULL.

ALEXANDRE DUMAS, VELVETY-MAROON, HIGHLY SCENTED.

ALEXANDRE FONTAINE, REDDISH-CERISE, FINE FORM.

ALEXANDRINE BACHMETEFF, BRIGHT RED, LARGE, FULL, AND SHOWY.

ALEXANDRINE BELFROY, PEACH-COLOR, LARGE AND FULL.

ALFRED DE ROUGEMONT, CRIMSON-PURPLE, SHADED WITH FIERY RED,
VERY BRIGHT, LARGE AND FULL.

ALPAIDE DE ROTALIER, FINE TRANSPARENT ROSE-COLOR, GLOSSY, LARGE,
FULL, AND OF GOOD FORM.

ALPHONSE BELIN, CLEAR BRILLIANT RED, THE REVERSE OF THE PETALS
WHITISH, LARGE, FULL, AND OF FINE FORM.

ALPHONSE DAMAIZIN, BRILLIANT-SHADED CRIMSON, GOOD FORM AND
HABIT,

ALPHONSE DE LAMARTINE, LIGHT ROSY-PINK.

ALPHONSE KARR, BRIGHT ROSE, FULL.

AMIRAL GRAVINA, BLACKISH-PURPLE, CHANGING TO AMARANTH, LARGE
AND FULL.

AMIRAL LA PEYROUSE, BRILLIANT CRIMSON, SOMETIMES DARK CRIMSON,
SHADED WITH VIOLET, LARGE, FULL, AND VERY FINE.

ANDRE LEROY, PURPLISH-CRIMSON, FINE COLOR, LARGE AND FULL.

ANNA ALEXIEFF, PRETTY ROSE-COLOR, LARGE, FULL, AND OF GOOD HABIT;
FLOWERS FREELY.

ANNA DE DIESBACH, CLEAR ROSE, FINE COLOR, VERY LARGE AND SHOWY.

LIST OF ROSES. ~ 1

ARCHEVEQUE DE PARIS, SHADED VELVETY-MAROON,

ARLES DUFOUR, DEEP PURPLE, WITH VIOLET CENTRE, LARGE, AND DEEP
IMBRICATED FORM, BEAUTIFUL NEW ROSE.

ARMIDE, ROSY-SALMON, DISTINCT, IMBRICATED, AND FULL FORM,

AUGUSTE GUINOISSEAU, SHADED DARK CRIMSON, VERY LARGE.

AURORE, SALMON-ROSE, LARGE AND FULL, DISTINCT.

BARLOW, BRIGHT ROSY-CRIMSON,

BARON ADOLPHE DE ROTHSCHILD, FIERY RED, PETALS OFTEN EDGED
WITH WHITE, LARGE, FULL, AND VERY EFFECTIVE.

BARON GONELLA, PINK AND LILAC SHADED, LARGE, FULL, AND FINE.

BARONNE DAUMESNIL, BEAUTIFUL BRIGHT ROSE, LARGE, FULL, AND OF
GOOD FORM.

BARONNE DE HECKEREN, ROSY-PINK, VERY LARGE AND DOUBLE.

BARONNE HALLEZ, DARK RED, FULL, AND OF FINE FORM.

BARONNE NOIRMONT, DEEP ROSE, LARGE, AND OF GOOD FORM.

BARONNE PELLETAN DE KINKELIN, CRIMSON AND PURPLE SHADED, COL-
ORS BRILLIANT, LARGE, FULL, AND OF FINE FORM.

BEAUTE FRANGAISE, VELVETY VIOLET-RED, REVERSE OF PETALS FIERY
RED, LARGE, FULL, AND WELL FORMED,

BELLE ANGLAISE, BEAUTIFUL BRIGHT PINK, FINE SHAPE.

BELLE DE BOURG LA REINE, SATIN-ROSE, LARGE AND FULL, FINE FORM.

BELLE DES MASSIFS, BEAUTIFUL ROSY-PINK.

BELLE DU PRINTEMPS, BEAUTIFUL PALE, MOTTLED ROSE.

BERCEAU IMPERIAL, FLESH-COLOR, LARGE AND FULL.

BERNARD PALISSY, BRIGHT CARMINE, LARGE, FULL, AND VERY FINE;
GOOD HABIT.

BUFFON, LIGHT ROSY-CRIMSON,

BURKE, ROSY-LILAC, OR VIOLET, FULL.

CATHERINE GUILLOT, DEEP PINK, PERFECT FORM; ONE OF THE BEST.

CENTIFOLIA ROSEA, BRIGHT PINK, LARGE, OF BEAUTIFUL CUPPED FORM.

CHRISTIAN PUTTNER, PURPLE, SHADED WITH CRIMSON, LARGE AND FULL,

CLAUDE MILLION, SCARLET-CRIMSON, DASHED WITH ROSE AND VIOLET,
VELVETY, LARGE, FULL, AND OF EXCELLENT FORM, HABIT GOOD.

CLEMENT MAROT, CLEAR ROSY-LILAC, LARGE AND VERY DOUBLE.

CL&OSTINE, LARGE ROSE, LARGE, FINE GLOBULAR FORM.

COLONEL DE ROUGEMONT, PALE ROSE, SHADED WITH CARMINE, VERY
LARGE AND FULL.

913 LIST OF ROSES.

COLONEL SOUFFLOT, BEAUTIFUL ROSY-PINK. ‘

COMTE CAVOUR, PALE-SHADED ROSE, FINE,

COMTE DE NANTEUIL, BRIGHT ROSE, DARKER EDGES, LARGE AND FULL.

COMTESSE BARBANTANNE, FLESH-COLOR, LARGE, FULL, AND OF FINE FORM,
FREE AND GOOD,

COMTESSE DE COURCY, ROSE, SHADED WITH BRILLIANT RED, FLOWERS
VERY FREELY,

COMTESSE DE KERGORLAY, BRIGHT GLOSSY PURPLE, LARGE AND FULL.

COMTESSE DE SEGUIER, VELVETY-RED, SHADED WITH VIOLET, LARGE
AND FULL.

DARZENS, SALMON-ROSE, LARGE AND DOUBLE, VERY SWEET.

DEUIL DE PRINCE ALBERT, BLACKISH-CRIMSON, SHADED, CENTRE FIERY
RED, LARGE, FULL, AND GOOD.

DOMINIQUE DARAN, DARK CRIMSON-PURPLE, LARGE AND VERY DOUBLE.”

DR. JUILLARD, ROSY-PURPLE, SHADED WITH CARMINE, LARGE AND DOUBLE,

Dk. SPITZER, BRIGHT RED, LARGE, FINE GLOBULAR FORM.

Duc D’ANJOU, CRIMSON, SHADED WITH DARK RED, VERY LARGE, FULL,
AND WELL FORMED.

Duc DE BASSANO, DARK VELVETY-CRIMSON, CUPPED, LARGE AND FULL;
ONE OF THE BEST.

Duc D’HARCOURT, BRIGHT REDDISH-CARMINE, BLOOMING FREELY AND IN
CLUSTERS, LARGE AND FULL.

Duc DE RUSCHPLER, DEEP ROSE, FULL,

Duc D’OSSUNA, RICH CRIMSON.

DUCHESSE DE MAGENTA, FLESH, CHANGING TO WHITE, DISTINCT AND
BEAUTIFUL,

DUCHESSE D’ORLEANS, FINE LAVENDER-BLUSH, LARGE, FULL, AND GOOD.

DUCHESS OF NORFOLK, RICH PURPLE-CRIMSON, MEDIUM, DOUBLE.

DUCHESS OF SUTHERLAND, PALE ROSE, LARGE, AND VERY DOUBLE.

DUKE OF CAMBRIDGE, OHERRY-RED, FINE FORM.

ECLAIR DE JUPITER, ROSY-CRIMSON, LARGE AND SHOWY,

EMILE DULAC, BRIGHT ROSE, LARGE, FULL, AND DEEPLY CUPPED}; THE »
BEST OF THE COLOR.

EMOTION, WHITE, TINTED WITH ROSE, OF MEDIUM SIZE, FULL, FORM PER-
FECT, FLOWERS ABUNDANTLY,

EUGENE APPERT, SCARLET AND CRIMSON SHADED, SPLENDID COLORS,
FINE FOLIAGE, FREE BLOOMER,

LIST OF ROSES. 213

EvGiENE BOURCIER, PURPLE-REDDISH, VELVETY, LARGE AND FULL,

KEuGkNE VERDIER, RICH DARK VIOLET, LARGE, FULL, AND OF PERFECT
FORM; ONE OF THE BEST,

EuGENIE LEBRUN, DARK CRIMSON, LARGE AND FULL,

kvfique DE NISMES, SCARLET AND CRIMSON, FULL, FLAT FORM.

FERNANDO, FIERY RED, TINTED WITH WHITE, LARGE, FULL, AND VERY
SWEET. “

FRANCOIS LACHARME, BRIGHT CARMINE, CHANGING TO RED, FULL AND
GLOBULAR; A SUPERB ROSE,

FRANCOIs LOUVAT, LILAC-RED, LARGE, FULL, GLOBULAR, GOOD, AND DIS-
TINCT,

FRANCOIS PREMIER, CHERRY-RED, SHADED, FINE FORM.

GABRIEL DE PEYRONNEY, FIERY RED, SHADED WITH VIOLET TOWARDS
THE CENTRE, LARGE, FULL, AND OF FINE FORM.

GGNERAL CASTELLANE, BRIGHT CRIMSON, LARGE AND FULL,

(GENERAL SIMPSON, BRIGHT CARMINE, FULL AND FREE.

GEORGE PAUL, BRIGHT RED, VELVETY, BLOOMING IN CLUSTERS, LARGE
AND FULL. 7

GEORGE PRINCE, FINE BRILLIANT RED, SHADED WITH DARK ROSE, RE-
VERSE OF PETALS WHITISH, LARGE, FULL, FORM GLOBULAR.

GLOIRE DE CHATILLON, BRILLIANT RED, SHADED WITH VIOLET, LARGE
AND FULL,

GLOIRE DE VITRY, BRIGHT ROSE, LARGE AND FULL,

GLOIRE DU SACR& C@UR, FLESH-COLORED ROSE, TIPPED WITH BRIGHT
RED, AND SHADED WITH PURPLE; GOOD HABIT.

GUSTAVE CORAUX, BRIGHT PURPLE, FREE IN AUTUMN,

GUSTAVE ROUSSEAU, PURPLE, SHADED WITH VIOLET-RED, LARGE, AND
FULL. °

Henri IV., SHADED VERMILION, VERY GOOD,

H&ROINE VAUCLUSE, CLEAR ROSE, BEAUTIFUL FORM, FREE BLOOMER.

H. LAURENTIUS, FINE REDDISH-CRIMSON, SHADED WITH BLACK, VELVETY,
LARGE, AND FULL; FORM CUPPED.

HORTENSE BLACHETTE, WHITE, WITH ROSY CENTRE, MEDIUM SIZE, FULL,

IMPERATRICE EUGENIE, WHITE, TINTED WITH ROSE, FULL AND GOOD.

IMPERATRICE MARIA ALEXANDRINA, WHITE, TINGED WITH BLUSH, GOOD
FORM, MEDIUM SIZE, FULL.

JAMES DICKSON, VELVETY-LAKE, SEMI-DOUBLE,

214 LIST OF ROSES.

JEAN-BAPTISTE GUILLOT, VELVETY-CARMINE.

JEAN BART, RED AND VIOLET SHADED, BRILLIANT, VERY EFFECTIVE.

JEAN GOUJON, BEAUTIFUL CLEAR RED, VERY LARGE, FULL, AND GOOD,

J“AX TOUVAIS, BEAUTIFUL REDDISH-PURPLE, SHADED WITH CRIMSON,
VERY LARGE, FULL, AND OF EXCELLENT FORM; BLOOMS FREELY,

JOHN HOPPER, ROSE, CRIMSON CENTRE, REVERSE OF THE PETALS PUR:
PLISH-LILAC, LARGE AND FULL.

JtHN STANDISH, VERY DARK CRIMSON, FINE GLOBULAR FORM.

»OSEPH FIALA, BRIGHT DARK-RED, WITH WHITISH EDGING, LARGE AND
FULL, FORM CUPPED.

KATE HAUSBURG, FINE BRIGHT ROSE, LARGE, FULL, AND OF EXCELLENT
SHAPE AND SUBSTANCE.

L’/ABBE LAURY, BRIGHT RED.

L’AVENIR, GLOSSY PINK, LARGE, FULL, AND OF GOOD FORM,

LA BRILLANTE, TRANSPARENT CARMINE, VERY BRIGHT AND BEAUTIFUL,
LARGE, AND OF FINE FORM,

LA DUCHESSE DE MORNY, BRIGHT BUT DELICATE ROSE-COLOR, THE RE-
VERSE OF THE PETALS SILVERY, LARGE AND FULL, FORM GLOBULAR.

VEBLOUISSANTE, BRILLIANT RED, LARGE, FULL, AND OF GOOD HABIT.

L2ECLATANTE, BRIGHT RED, CHANGING TO VIOLET-RED, LARGE, FULL,
AND OF GOOD FORM.

L’ELEGANTE, BLUSH-WHITE, FULL, FREE, FLAT FORM.

L2&LIA, SHADED ROSE, VERY LARGE, FULL, AND VERY FINE.

LA ESMERALDA, BRIGHT CHERRY-COLOR, LARGE, FULL, AND OF GOOD
FORM.

LAFONTAINE, PURPLISH-ROSE, VERY LARGE AND FULL.

LA PHOCEENNE, BLACKISH-CRIMSON, FINE SHELL-SHAPED, CUPPED FORM.

LA PIVOINE, SHADED ROSY-CARMINE, PECULIAR FOLIAGE,

LA REINE DE LA PAPE, FINE ROSY-PINK, LARGE AND BEAUTIFUL.

LA TOUR DE COURCY, ROSY-PINK, VERY GOOD.

LAURENT DESCOURT, DEEP PURPLISH-CRIMSON, RICH AND VELVETY,
LARGE AND FULL.

LA VILLE DE ST. DENIS, ROSY-CARMINE, FINE FORM, LARGE AND FULL.

LE BARON DE ROTHSCHILD, DARK REDDISH-CARMINE, SOMETIMES SHADED
WITH VIOLET, VERY LARGE AND FULL.

LE GEANT, CLEAR BRIGHT ROSE, TINTED WITH VIOLET, VERY LARGE
AND FULL, BLOOMS FREELY; THE LARGEST ROSE YET INTRODUCED.

LIST OF ROSES. 215

LE MONT D’OR, PALE ROSE, CUPPED AND DOUBLE,

LEOPOLD HAUSBURG, BRIGHT CARMINE, SHADED WITH PURPLE, LARGE
AND DOUBLE, OF FINE FORM.

LEOPOLD PREMIER, BRIGHT DARK-RED, VERY LARGE AND FULL, FINE
FORM.

LEON DES COMBATS, REDDISH-VIOLET, OFTEN SHADED WITH SCAiKLET,
LARGE AND FULL,

LORD CLYDE, CRIMSON AND PURPLE, DEEPLY SHADED, LARGE AND FULL,

LORD HERBERT, ROSY-CARMINE, THE PETALS REFLEXING AT THE SUM-
MITS; LARGE, FULL, FINELY FORMED.

LORD PALMERSTON, CHERRY-RED, FULL, FINE FORM; FLOWERS FREELY,

LovuiIs VAN HOUTTE, BRIGHT ROSY-CARMINE, VERY LARGE, FULL, AND OF
FINE, GLOBULAR FORM,

Louis XIV., RICH BLOOD-COLOR, LARGE AND FULL, FORM GLOBULAR;
A DISTINCT AND BEAUTIFUL VARIETY,

LOUISE DAMAIZIN, WHITE, WITH PEACH CENTRE, GOOD SIZE AND FORM.

LOUISE DARZENS, PURE WHITE, NOT LARGE, BUT FULL, AND OF FINE
FORM; ONE OF THE BEST FOR MASSING.

LOUISE D’AUTRICHE, ROSE, LARGE AND FULL.

LOUISE GULINO, VELVETY-MAROON, FINE,

LOUISE ODIER, FINE BRIGHT ROSE, FULL, VERY FREE BLOOMER.

MADAME ALFRED DE ROUGEMONT, PURE WHITE, LIGHTLY AND DELI-
CATELY SHADED WITH ROSE AND CARMINE, LARGE AND FULL, SHAPE
OF THE CABBAGE ROSE; ONE OF THE BEST.

MADAME VAN GEERT, ROSY-PINK, STRIPED WHITE, VERY BEAUTIFUL.

MADAME BOUTIN, CHERRY-CRIMSON, LARGE AND FULL.

MADAME BRIANSON, REDDISH-CARMINE, SHADED WITH LIGHT RED, VERY
LARGE AND FULL.

MADAME BRUNI, DELICATE PEACH, LARGE AND FULL,

MADAME CAILLAT, BRIGHT CERISE, LARGE, FULL, AND OF GOOD HABIT,

MADAME C. CRAPELET, ROSY-RED, LARGE, FULL, AND VERY FINE.

MADAME CELINE TOUVAIS, SHADED CARMINE,

MADAME CHARLES ROY, SHADED ROSY-CRIMSON, GOOD SHAPE,

MADAME CHARLES WOOD, VINOUS-CRIMSON, VERY LARGE, FULL, AND EF-
FECTIVE.

MADAME CRESPIN, ROSE, SHADED WITH DARK VIOLET, MEDIUM SIZk,
FULL, FORM GOOD.

216 LIST OF ROSES.

MADAME DE CAMBACERES, ROSY-CARMINE, LARGE AND FULL, FINE
FORM.

MADAME DE CANROBERT, WHITE, SLIGHTLY TINGED WITH PEACH, LARGE
AND FULL, NICELY CUPPED.

MADAME DERREUX DOUVILLE, DELICATE GLOSSY ROSE, BORDERED WITH
WHITE, LARGE, FULL, AND OF FINE FORM; GOOD HABIT.

MADAME DE STELLA, BRIGHT ROSE, LARGE, FULL, AND OF FINE FORM.

MADAME DOMAGE, BRIGHT ROSE, VERY LARGE AND DOUBLE.

MADAME DUCHERE, ROSY-WHITE, DELICATE TINT, FULL.

MADAME EMAIN, FINE PURPLISH-RED, GLOBULAR, LARGE AND FULL.

MADAME ERNEST DREOL, DARK ROSE, SHADED WITH LILAC, LARGE, FULL,
AND OF GOOD FORM, FOLIAGE FINE.

MADAME EUGENE VERDIER, DEEP PINK, LARGE, FULL, AND FINELY
CUPPED.

’ MADAME FREEMAN, CREAMY-WHITE, MEDIUM SIZE, GLOBULAR AND FULL,
THOROUGHLY PERPETUAL.

MADAME HECTOR JACQUIN, CLEAR ROSE, SHADED WITH LILAC, LARGE
AND FULL.

MADAME HELYE, CARMINE, SHADED-LILAC, MEDIUM, DISTINCT.

MADAME JULIE DARAN, PURPLISH-VERMILION, GLOSSY, VERY LARGE AND
FULL; ONE OF THE BEST.

MADAME LAFFAY, ROSY-CRIMSON, LARGE AND DOUBLE.

MADAME LOUISE CARIQUE, FINE ROSE AND CARMINE, FULL.

MADAME MASSON, REDDISH-CRIMSON, CHANGING TO VIOLET, VELVETY,
LARGE AND FULL.

MADAME MELAINE, SHADED VERMILION.

MADAME PAULINE VILLOT, CRIMSON-PURPLE, FINE FORM; BLOOMS
FREELY.

MADAME PHELIP, SILVERY-ROSE, BEAUTIFULLY SHADED WITH CRIMSON,
SMALL AND PRETTY.

MADAME PIERSON, BRIGHT RED, SILVERY EDGES, LARGE AND GLOBU-
LAR,

MADAME PLACE, BEAUTIFUL LIGHT ROSE, SMALL, BUT PRETTY FORM.

MADAME SCHMIDT, SHADED ROSY-PINK, LARGE AND BEAUTIFUL.

MADAME SOUPPERT, BEAUTIFUL PALE FLESH-COLOR, FINE FORM.

MADAME STANDISH, CLEAR PALE PINK, DELICATE COLOR, LARGE AND
FULL.

ee Se

LIST OF ROSES. 217

MADAME SYLVAIN CAUBERT, BRIGHT ROSE, DELICATELY EDGED WITH
WHITE; VERY DISTINCT,

MADAME THERESE LEVET, PALE PINK, GLOBULAR AND GOOD.

MADAME VALEMBOURG, BRIGHT PURPLISH-RED, SHADED, LARGE, FULL,
AND OF GOOD FORM.

MADAME VICTOR VERDIER, RICH BRIGHT ROSY-CHERRY COLOR, LARGE,
FULL, AND FINE FORMED, CUPPED; BLOOMS IN CLUSTERS,

MADAME VIGNERON, PALE ROSE, LARGE AND FULL, VERY SWEET ANT
GOOD.

MADEMOISELLE ALICE LEROY, DELICATE ROSE, SHADED, FINE FORM
FULL.

MADEMOISELLE BETSY HAINMAN, BRILLIANT CERISE; A MOST EFFE?-
TIVE CLIMBER,

MADEMOISELLE BONNAIRE, WHITE, ROSY-CENTRE, LARGE, FULL, AND OF
EXQUISITE FORM; ONE OF THE BEST,

MADEMOISELLE EMAIN, WHITE, ROSY CENTRE, FULL, AND OF GOOD FORM.

MADEMOISELLE GABRIELLE DE PEYRONNEY, BRIGHT RED, WITH SHADED
CENTRE, LARGE, FULL.

MADEMOISELLE GODDARD, ROSY-PINK, LIGHT MARGIN, GOOD.

THERESE APPERT, PEACH-COLOR, LARGE AND FULL, CUPPED, GOOD
SHAPE, FREE BLOOMER.

MARECHAL CANROBERT, FINE BRIGHT ROSE, SOMETIMES SHADED WITH
PURPLE, VERY LARGE, HABIT GOOD,

MARECHAL FOREY, VELVETY-CRIMSON, REVERSE OF PETALS VIOLET,
LARGE AND FULL.

MARECHAL SOUCHET, BEAUTIFUL REDDISH-CRIMSON, SHADED WITH
DARK MAROON, VERY LARGE AND FULL, PETALS ALSO LARGE, HABIT
GOOD; ONE OF THE BEST.

MARECHAL SOUCHET (DAMAIZIN), FINE ROSY-CARMINE, LARGE, FULL,
AND OF EXQUISITE FORM.

MARECHAL VAILLANT, PURPLISH-RED, VERY LARGE, FULL, AND OF GOOD
FORM.
MARGUERITE APPERT, LAVENDER-BLUSH, LARGE AND FULL, FORM

CUPPED, PRETTY AND DISTINCT.

MARIE PORTEMER, PURPLISH-RED, FULL, AND FINE FORM.

MATHURIN REGNIER, BEAUTIFUL PALE ROSE, LARGE AND FULL,

MAXIME, VIOLET-ROSE, LARGE AND FULL.

218 LIST OF ROSES.

MEXICO, VELVETY REDDISH-PURPLE, SHADED WITH BLACKISH-VIOLET,
LARGE AND FULL, BLOOMS FREELY, HABIT GOOD.

MODELE DE PERFECTION, LIVELY PINK, VERY PRETTY, BLOOMS FREELY;
ONE OF THE BEST.

MONSIEUR DE MONTIGNY, ROSY-CARMINE, LARGE AND FULL,

MONSIEUR JOIGNEAUX, SHADED MAROON, STRONG GROWER.

MONSIEUR MOREAU, SHADED CRIMSON.

MONTE CHRISTO, BLACKISH-PURPLE, OFTEN DASHED WITH SCARLET,
VERY RICH COLOR, LARGE AND GOOD IN FORM.

Mrs. CHARLES WOOD, BRIGHT RED, LARGE, FULL, AND SUPERB FORM.

Mrs. ELLIOT, PURPLE, LARGE AND DOUBLE.

MURILLO, RICH PURPLISH-RED, SHADED WITH CARMINE AND VIOLET,
LARGE, DOUBLE, AND OF GOOD FORM.

NOEMI, BLUSH, PINK CENTRE, FULL.

NOTRE DAME DE FOURVIERES, PALE SATIN-ROSE, LARGE AND FULL.

ODERIC VITAL, SILVERY-ROSE, LARGE AND FULL, GOOD FORM.

OLIVIER DELHOMME, BRILLIANT PURPLISH-RED, LARGE, AND PERFECT
SHAPE, FOLIAGE HANDSOME.

PANACHEE D’ORLEANS, FLESH, STRIPED WITH ROSE AND PURPLE, DIS-
TINCT.

PARMENTIER, ROSY-PINK, BLOOMS FREELY, VERY BRILLIANT.

PAUL DE LA MEILLERAY, FINE PURPLISH-CERISE, VERY LARGE, FULL, AND
OF EXCELLENT FORM.

PAUL DESGRAND, FINE BRIGHT-RED, LARGE AND FULL, FORM GLOBULAR.

PAUL DUPUY, VELVETY-CRIMSON, SHADED, LARGE AND FULL.

PAUL FEVAL, CHERRY-COLOR, LARGE AND FULL, FORM CUPPED,

PAULINE LANSEZEUR, BRIGHT CRIMSON, CHANGING TO VIOLET, FULL.

PAULINE VILLOT, SHADED ROSY-CARMINE, COMPACT AND GOOD,

PAVILLON DE PREGNY, WHITE AND RED, MEDIUM SIZE, FULL, MOST
ABUNDANT BLOOMER.

PETER LAWSON, BRILLIANT RED, SHADED WITH CARMINE, LARGE AND
DOUBLE.

PIERRE NOTTING, BLACKISH-RED, SHADED WITH VIOLET, VERY LARGE
AND FULL, FORM GLOBULAR, HABIT GOOD; ONE OF THE BEST.

PRAIRIE DE TERRE NOIRE, VELVETY-PURPLE, LARGE AND FULL.

PRINCE HENRI DES PAYS BAS, BRIGHT CRIMSON, SHADED WITH VEL
VETY-PURPLE, OF MEDIUM SIZE, FULL, FINE.

LIST OF ROSES. 219

PRINCE IMPERIAL, ROSY-CARMINE, LARGE AND FULL.

PRINCE LEON, FINE BRIGHT CRIMSON, LARGE, AND VERY DOUBLE.

PRINCE NOIR, VERY DARK MAROON, GOOD CLIMBER.

PRINCESS ALICE, BRIGHT ROSE, THE REVERSE OF THE PETALS WHITISH,
LARGE, FULL, AND SWEET; A DISTINCT AND DESIRABLE VARIETY.

PRINCESSE IMPERIALE CLOTILDE, GLOSSY-WHITE, PINK CENTRE,

PRINCESSE MATHILDE, CRIMSON, MAROON, AND PURPLE SHADED, COLORS
EXQUISITE, MEDIUM SIZE, DOUBLE, FORM EXPANDED; A GOOD HARDY
VARIETY.

PROFESSOR KOCH, BRIGHT ROSY-CERISE, SHADED WITH CARMINE, BEAU-
TIFULLY CUPPED; ONE OF THE BEST.

QUEEN, ROSE, VERY LARGE AND BEAUTIFUL.

RED ROVER, FIERY “RED, GROWTH MORE THAN USUALLY VIGOROUS,
FLOWERING UP TO CHRISTMAS. NOT DOUBLE, ENOUGH FOR A SHOW
ROSE, BUT THE FINEST AND MOST EFFECTIVE OF PILLAR ROSES,

REINE DE CASTILLE, WHITISH-ROSE, LARGE AND FULL, OF GOOD HABIT,
AND BLOOMS FREELY,

REINE DE LA CITE, BLUSH, PINK CENTRE, LARGE, FULL, AND OF GOOD
HABIT,

REYNOLDS HOLE, LIVELY PINK, INCREASING IN BRILLIANCY AS THE
FLOWERS ADVANCE IN AGE, LARGE, NOT VERY FULL.

RICHARD SMITH, VELVETY-MAROON, VERY DARK.

ROBERT FORTUNE, BRIGHT RED, LARGE, FULL, AND GOOD.

SENATEUR REVEIL, BRILLIANT REDDISH-CRIMSON, SHADED WITH DARK
PURPLE, LARGE AND FULL, FORM FINE, BLOOMS FREELY, HABIT
GOOD.

SIMON OPPENHEIM, MAROON, SHADED VERMILION, VERY FINE.

SOUVENIR DE BERANGER, LIGHT ROSE, VERY LARGE AND DOUBLE,

SOUVENIR DE CHARLES MONTAULT, BRILLIANT RED, CUPPED, LARGE
AND FULL, FREE BLOOMER.

SOUVENIR DE COMTE CAVOUR, CRIMSON AND BLACK SHADED, OF GOOD
SIZE AND FORM.

SOUVENIR DE LADY EARDLEY, REDDISH-SCARLET, RICHLY SHADED,
LARGE, VERY LIGHT, AND EFFECTIVE.

SOUVENIR DE LEVESON GOWER, FINE DARK RED, CHANGING TO RUBY,
VERY LARGE AND FULL.

220 LIST OF ROSES.

SOUVENIR DE M. ROUSSEAU, SCARLET, CHANGING TO CRIMSON, SHADED
WITH MAROON, VERY RICH AND VELVETY, LARGE AND VERY DOUBLE,

TouJOURS FLEURI, VIOLET-PURPLE, FULL AND GOOD.

TRIOMPHE D’ALENCON, BRIGHT RED, VERY LARGE, FULL, AND FINE.

TRIOMPHE D’AMIENS, VIVID CRIMSON, SOMETIMES STRIPED WITH LAKE,
LARGE AND DOUBLE,

TRIOMPHE:D’ ANGERS, CRIMSON-SCARLET, LARGE, FULL, FREE.

‘TTRIOMPHE DE BAGATELLE, BRIGHT CHERRY-CARMINE, LARGE, FULL, AND
FREE.

TRIOMPHE DE CAEN, DEEP VELVETY-PURPLE, SHADED WITH SCARLET-
CRIMSON, LARGE AND FULL.

TRIOMPHE DE LYON, SHADED MAROON, BEAUTIFUL.

TRIOMPHE DE VILLECRESNES, CLEAR RED, MORE BRILLIANT AT THE
CENTRE, LARGE AND FULL, BLOOMS FREELY,

TURENNE, BRILLIANT RED, LARGE, HANDSOME PETALS, VERY EFFECTIVE.

VAINQUEUR DE GOLIATH, BRILLIANT CRIMSON-SCARLET, VERY LARGE AND
DOUBLE.

VAINQUEUR DE SOLFERINO, DARK RED, BRIGHTER CENTRE, LARGE, FULL,

_ BLOOMS ABUNDANTLY,

VASE D’ELECTION, BRIGHT ROSE.

VELOUTEE D’ORLEANS, BRILLIANT VELVETY-RED, ALMOST SCARLET,
LARGE AND FULL.

VICOMTE VIGIER, BRIGHT VIOLET-RED, LARGE, FULL, AND GOOD.

VICOMTESSE BELLEVAL, BEAUTIFUL BLUSH, LARGE AND FULL, FINE
FORM, BLOOMS FREELY, HABIT GOOD. y

VICOMTESSE DE MONTESQUIEU, DOUBLE WHITE, USEFUL AS A BEDDER.

VICOMTESSE DOUGLAS, BEAUTIFUL ROSE, THE REVERSE OF THE PETALS
WHITISH, VERY LARGE AND FULL, FORM CUPPED,

VICTOR TROUILLARD, BRILLIANT CRIMSON AND PURPLE SHADED, LARGE
AND FULL.

VULCAN, BRIGHT PURPLISH-VIOLET, SHADED WITH BLACK, GOOD AND
DISTINCT.

WILHELM PFITZER, BRILLIANT RED, COLOR OFTEN SUPERB, LARGE AND
FULL.

WILLIAM JESSE, CRIMSON, TINGED WITH LILAC, SUPERB, VERY LARGE
AND DOUBLE.

PA , . ya ‘s f 55
4 te, , > : i

x LIST OF ROSES. 221

WILLIAM PAUL, BRILLIANT REDDISH-CRIMSON, LARGE AND FULL; A FREE,
HARDY, LATE-BLOOMING ROSE, EXCELLENT FOR BEDDING, .

PERPETUAL MOSS ROSES.

ALFRED DE DALMAS, ROSE, EDGES ROSY-WHITE, BLOOMING IN CLUSTERS,
FULL,

EUGENE DE SAVOIE, BRIGHT RED, LARGE AND FULL,

EUGENIE GUINOISEAU, BRIGHT CHERRY, CHANGING TO VIOLET, LARGE,
FULL, AND WELL MOSSED.

HORTENSE VERNET, WHITE, TINGED WITH LIGHT ROSE, FINE, LARGE,
AND FULL,

JAMES VEITCH, DEEP VIOLET, SHADED WITH CRIMSON, LARGE AND
DOUBLE.

MADAME LA RIVIERE, ROSY-PINK, DISTINCT AND GOOD.

POMPONE, MOTTLED ROSE, ABUNDANT BLOOMER,

. RAPHAEL, FLESH-COLOR, FLOWERING IN CORYMBS, LARGE, FULL,

‘

NEW ROSES OF 1866.

The following are the most promising of the latest new roses. The de-
scriptions are those of the raisers; and as the varieties have not yet bloomed
in this country, and very few of them in England, it is impossible to speak of

them definitely. Most of them are results of the skill and perseverance of ~

French cultivators.

The letters immediately succeeding the name refer to the class, — H. P., Hybrid
Perpetual; B., Bourbon; T., Tea-scented.

ABBE BERLEZE, H. P.; flowers varying from bright-reddish cerise to rosy-
carmine, large, full, andl of fine form; growth vigorous.

ACHILLE GONOD, H. P.; flowers bright-reddish carmine; a seedling ‘from
Jules Margottin; very large and full; extra fine foliage, dark green;
growth vigorous.

ADRIENNE DE CARDOVILLE, B.; flowers delicate rose, of medium size;
full, perfect form.

AUGUSTE RIVIERE, H. P.; flowers beautiful bright-reddish carmine, the
reverse of the petals of a paler hue, distinctly edged with white; large,
and of regular globular form; growth vigorous,

RAPTISTE DESPORTES, H. P.; flowers bright scarlet, very abundant, of
medium size, full; growth vigorous.

BARONNE DE MAYNARD, B.; flowers beautiful pure white, of medium
size, fine form; growth vigorous. fs

BEAUTY OF WESTERHAM, H. P. (Cattell); flowers brilliant scarlet; fo-
liage bright green; habit free and vigorous; fragrance powerful.

BELLE NORMANDE, H. P.; flowers pale rose, shaded with silvery white ;
very large and full; form globular ; growth vigorous; of the race of La
Reine.

BELLE ROSE, H. P.; flowers bright rose, very large, full, and of fine globu-
lar form; very sweet; habit good; growth vigorous.

CAPITAINE ROGNAT, H. P.; flowers brilliant red ; cupped, large and full ;
growth vigorous.

CHARLES MARGOTTIN, H. P.; flowers brilliant carmine, their centre fiery ~

red, very large, full, and sweet; form fine; outer petals large and round ;
growth vigorous ; of the race of Jules Margottin.
CHARLES WOOD, H. P.; flowers deep red, shaded with blackish-crimson ,
very large, full, and of fine form; growth vigorous.
222

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NEW ROSES OF 1866. 23

CLIMBING DEVONIENSIS, T. ; identical with the old Devoniensis in flower,
but of a rapid running growth, and hence valuable as a climber.

COMTESSE DE PARIS, H. P.; beautiful, distinct lively rose, with lighter
edges ; flowers very large and double; habit vigorous ; a very beautiful
variety.

DENIS HELYE, H. P.; flowers brilliant rosy-carmine; lovely color; very
large and full; very effective ; growth vigorous.

DR. ANDRY, H. P.; flowers dark bright-red ; very large, full, and perfectly
imbricated ; growth vigorous,

DUCHESSE DE CAYLUS, H. P.; flowers brilliant carmine ; large, full, and
of perfect form ; growth vigorous; foliage very rich and fine.

DUCHESSE DE MEDINA CQiLI, H. P.; flowers dark blood-purple ; large,
full, good, and distinct ; growth vigorous.

DUKE OF WELLINGTON, H. P.; flowers bright velvety-red, shaded with
blackish-maroon ; their centre fiery red ; large and full; growth vigorous.

ELIZABETH VIGNERON, H. P.; flowers fine rosy-pink, very large and full ;
in the style of Lelia, but fuller, fresher, and brighter in color; constitution
hardy ; growth vigorous.

GENERAL D’HAUTPOULT, H. P.; flowers brilliant reddish-scarlet; the
centre petals sometimes striped with white; large, full, and of globular
form.

GLORY OF WALTHAM, H. P. (Paul); flowers rich crimson, very large and
full; a seedling from Leveson Gower ; larger, brighter, darker, and of
better form, than the parent; a superb rose, of hardy, vigorous growth.

JEAN ROSENKRANTZ, H. P.; flowers brilliant coral-red ; large, full, and
of perfect form ; growth vigorous.

JOHN KEYNES, H. P.; flowers bright reddish-scarlet, shaded with maroon ;
large and full ; crawth vigorous.

KING’S ACRE, H. P. (Cranston) ; flowers bright veridliGn-tbke: reverse of
petals satiny ; large, and of fine cupped form; foliage, rich dark-green ;
growth vigorous. :

MADAME VERSCHAFFELT, H. P.; flowers beautiful delicate rose; large,
full, and of fine form; growth vigorous ; shoots almost thornless.

MADAME ANDRE LEROY, H. P.; flowers salmon-rose; large, very dou-
ble, form fine; growth vigorous.

- MADAME CHARLES, T.; flowers sulphur or yellow, their centre salmon;

large, full, of good form, and very abundant; growth vigorous; of the
race of Madame Damaizin.

MADAME CHARLES VERDIER, H. P.; flowers fine vermeil-rose; very
large, full, and of fine form; growth vigorous.

MADAME ELISE VILMORIN, H. P.; flowers dark vermilion, shaded with
blackish-crimson; large, full, of good form, and very abundant; growth
vigorous.

- MADAME EMILE BOYAU, H. P.; flowers soft, rosy flesh-color, changing

to blush; sufficiently large, perfect in form, moderate in growth, hardy
in constitution; good and distinct.

224 NEW ROSES OF 1866.

MADAME GUSTAVE BONNET, B.; flowers white, shaded with rose and
carmine; of medium size, full, very abundant, form globular; growth vig-
orous.

MADAME HERMAN STENGER, H. P.; flowers rose, suffused with lilac;
their centre shaded with sulphur; large and full; the outer petals large,
form cupped; growth vigorous.

MADAME MOREAU, H.P.; flowers brilliant red, shaded with violet; very
large, full; outer petals large; very sweet; growth vigorous.

MADAME ROUSSET, H. P.; flowers beautiful pale rose; the reverse of the
petals silvery, large, full, finely cupped, and good habit; growth vigorous.

MADEMOISELLE AMELIE HALPHEN, H. P.; flowers fine rosy-carmine ;
large, full, of fine form, bright and beautiful; habit good; growth vig-
orous.

MADEMOISELLE LOIDE DE FALLOUX, H.P.; white, suffused or veined
with rose; flowers large, double, and of good form; habit vigorous.

MARECHAL NIEL, T.; flowers beautiful deep-yellow; large, full, and of
globular form, very sweet; growth vigorous; the shoots well clothed with
large shining leaves.

MARGUERITE BONNET, B.; flowers white, shaded with flesh-color; large,
full, and of fine form; growth vigorous; of the race of Louise Odier.

MARGUERITE DE ST. AMAND, H. P.; flowers rosy flesh-color; large,
full, of fine form, and abundant; habit fine; growth vigorous; of the race
of Jules Margottin.

MARIE BOISSEE, H. P.; blush-white in opening, passing to pure white when
expanded; flowers double and cup-shaped; habit vigorous; very free-
flowering.

MICHEL BONNET, B.; flowers beautiful bright rose; large and full;
growth vigorous.

MONSIEUR DE PONTBRIANT, H. P.; flowers. dark blackish-crimson,

shaded with carmine ; very large, full, of good form ; growth vigorous.

MONSIEUR EDOUARD ORY, H. P.; flowers beautiful vermilion ; large,
full, and of globular form ; fine habit ; growth vigorous.

PRINCE DE JOINVILLE, H. P.; flowers light crimson; a fine, large,
showy rose, of vigorous and hardy habit.

PRINCE EUGENE BEAUHARNAIS, H. P.; flowers brilliant reddish-scar-
let, shaded with purple; large and full; form cupped ; growth vigorous.

PRINCE NAPOLEON, H. P.; flowers bright rose; very large and very
double; growth vigorous; very effective.

PRINCESS LICHTENSTEIN, H. P.; flowers white, globular, large and full;
a good hardy, white rose, of compact growth, flowering abundantly.

ROSA MUNDI, H. P.; pure rose, flowers large, double, globular, and well-
shaped; habit vigorous.

RUSHTON RADCLYFFE, H. P.; flowers beautiful clear bright red ; large,
full, and of perfect form ; growth vigorous.

SEMIRAMIS, H. P.; flowers clear pink ; large, full, and of fine globular form ;
growth vigorous.

NEW ROSES OF 1866. 225

SOUVENIR DE BERNARDIN DE ST. PIERRE, H. P.; flowers varying
from crimson to violet; their centre fiery red; large, full, and of fine form;
habit good; growth vigorous.

SOUVENIR DE LOUIS GAUDIN, B.; flowers fine reddish-purple, shaded
with black; of medium size, full ; very abundant ; form fine.

SOUVENIR DE WILLIAM WOOD, H. P.; flowers dark blackish-purple,
shaded with scarlet; darker than Prince Camille de Rohan; large, full,
and very effective ; growth vigorous.

TRIOMPHE DE LA TERRE DES ROSES, H. P.; flowers fine violet-rose ;
very large and full; very sweet; blooms freely.

TRIOMPHE DES FRANCAIS, H. P.; flowers brilliant crimson; large ;
very double; growth vigorous; fine habit; very free and effective.

WILLIAM BULL, H. P.; flowers brilliant cherry-red; large, full, and of fine
globular form; growth vigorous.

XAVIER OLIBO, H. P.; flowers velvety-black, shaded with fiery amaranth ;

a. colors exceedingly rich; large; well formed; growth vigorous.

THE END.

———
Printed by Geo. 0. Band & Avery, No. 3, OornhilL.

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