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Ss 1) rE “Ss Pee Pas Syae easscacs - ss Sx 3 sie peace batts Hons i inte ’ RF iy tes oH * ite A etameah tin perry 2 7 deimacd age eagieShh pb Shig Oe 2 (800 8h vet nual ses iaait steht) by bal i, ish bat Basa y ane ea TEE ra Eu: ci ty rath A * one ri o cPartty nies AWSs > N 7 tell ‘ ae + See > \ eo a a ae oe aa AT =) 77 n AU 1} = oo. : ft - | _ y eo 7 , : A , Ww i a7 , ; i , . Ww : a t i; oh 9 - ‘ - > i i Tae ‘aaa ty i, my THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING WUOAT YON —'D *q “wowuUIYysEAY “2eNOZy A3TY AY SAITIT UALVM AO NOILVAILIND JHL UOA NISVA ogi he lee. Pele ee TRS eee THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING GIVING IN FULL DETAIL ALL THE PRACTICAL INFORMATION NECESSARY TO THE SELECTION, GROUPING AND SUCCESSFUL CULTIVATION OF AQUATIC AND OTHER PLANTS REQUIRED IN THE MAKING OF A WATER GARDEN AND ITS SURROUNDINGS, AND COVERING ALL CONDITIONS FROM THAT OF THE AMATEUR WITH A FEW PLANTS IN TUBS TO THE LARGE ESTATE OR PARK BY PEFER BISSET PROFUSELY ILLUSTRATED WITH ONE HUNDRED AND TWENTY HALFTONES SEVENTEEN DIAGRAMS AND TWO DOUBLE PAGE PLATES e ee? NEW YORK A. T. DE LA MARE PRINTING AND PUBLISHING CO. LTD. 1907 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED LIBRARY ‘of conaness| 7 Two Copies Recelved | | JUN 22 1907 j | Want tgo7 JoLass 4 Xkc,, No | EE! | Cone CopyRIGHT, 1905 BY ¥. A T. DeLa Mare Printinc anv Pustisninc Co. Lrp. _ e oT Att Ricuts RESERVED szueyd 19y}0 pue sasseic) jo surzueyd pesuesie A][Njo3zsez & YIM paepunoazins jood ayy S spraqsy BddIElpARJAY OY} FO ouLOs pue satTIT aatzeU 21k punoapyoeq 24} Ur * saryIy suru1oo0y,q yy Aru [ezeAas are punossar0F aq} ur! umsoroads urntquinjan] 24} FO SPAvoT 94} 3F2] auteAzxXe OY} 0} waas aq Aeur aanzord 24}; Uy “3809 yeoap yNOYZM ZO] AzID B UT PAeY AeUL aUOAUE 4eY4 yods surmaieys NaIduvyd UALVM SANALVWVY NV £ RS aaa a Lett hod a comes Si CHAPTER PAGE DY FOREWORD i erate ccs sacar ns NS re Le oleae oe are ta to eee UAC Taka, CHM orerCs ers ee ee eee 12 ITs SRONDS)) “AND” UBASINS (occas ce ac actos a eevee olteo oreo ators e oietars oor snaiane tench ot Oa rere 17 The Importance of a Carefully Selected Site—Making Artificial Ponds.. 17 An Excellent Material for Artificial Pond Making...................... 19 FEXCAV Att Os circve eeeaeene pisrehes se ie aye Susie evel e le) Sale ee Tae cro ear tics ee ee 20 Na ttiatall Poms ei ysce soto cate heer se het ays ree es Se av etel ove riaes Ope ee 21 Basins: forthe: Amateurs = 4 occur ee cisco stars ere eres cle aus che eee eee 25 LE WAN DBREAIS) PANID, | VEARGIN Sete crercieccicene siecle ticnetareteiictn ier netcne iene ares Aenean nea 31 1 V Aceatres | 0) 0 Doman ee Er Aeon eR gs eae aOR De eee PERE er ee be ey Pe ome teeta Cha os Oo, eee 42 Making: the “Compost—Pertilizersn. saensde) ae ees ee eer eee ere 42 Soil for -Séedline st 2a ester conse ae ceo Cee on ee eee 43 Ve PEANTING VANDROVIINTERTNG teers serena ree ere mieten Cicero ere ae eee 44 Plantinesins Soilton Bottom) on eeondeee secre sateen eee eee 44 Planting: an Solin) Boxessors Wubses scan. sede eras ee eee 46 Cultural’ Directions store AguaticSsasa- eee ae ee oe eee cite eee 47 Wanterino: Mubersmancdiekinizomesw aan ener tts eee eee 47 Vil SELARDY) @ WIATER)) SITTES 20s is ni cea rere re ee NS oe eS Ts eee 49 Selections of the Best Hardy Water dailies: 2.02227 pas eee ae eee 60 VET INE UMBLUIMS YT < ioe eticeis.c soe rere oastons wines GR SIS eee ee OO Oe eee 61 Ther Desirability, int the Water sGardent. ace. ee ee ie eee ee 61 In’ Boxes® Submermedpine Rondeae seers cone ne eee 2 Grown in Boxes or Half Barrels—Grown in Tubs on the Lawn.......... 64 [4] CONTENTS— Continued CHAPTER PAGE VA EIEATING STEE: ROPICAL: LILY BASIN: ccc. 4c ociec sole deisc uw sede ose cs deeds coats 69 [Se eEN DER ORa UROPICAT,: (WATER: TILTES :.4 5 oe ac. avueseebs Weecescde0¥decceecout. 74 DD Aye NOW ORIG. Gras ots Nc. eh aed acsds udedod MBeoas docs coats sdaonta 74 ANT IEE OMICL INO 2 86 gard Sos id Sears sau ashlee ania aa + wise ehe s+ ab weve ce aie 81 GEN TCTORVAM ICEGIA. Sct oc. Seco cit csden< eeieesde dase cvtaee as EEO ene SO uae 88 LOU SMALE, VVATER (GARDEN cloxics~) oe cs sees ned dsed ous ed ddsaecumalieeescratos 98 Selections of the Best Water Lilies and Aquatic Plants for the Beginner 98 NU ee VIISCEMLANEOUS © NOUATIC PLANTS ..65.sic.0s ce+scssvacdeeeecchoecdsseweets vn’ 100 aCe OUATIC (PHANT GREENHOUSE... ...0a-ec0 eens ner ssenbeaeiwssnedsseeewoues 115 NValteimenies stor VWWainter PlOWerines oi. 0. 640s svete se 4a nn ecin nti ees wemine 4 121 POE VePEROPAGATION IOP “WATER LILIES... osc cccs0sececsceenoreves sevnedanaceceeveas 123 RedismnewW ater Lilies” froml-Seed vc oc.0e sc. sada neds wa agedeeclos to vwabeos 123 Propacation ot: Tender Water LiliéSi.i....< ack 116 Aquatic Plant Greenhouse of Samuel Untermeyer, cae at Greystone, Yonkers, N. Y... 117 Greenhouse for Aquatic Plants, Curvilinear, Sectional View of...................-s5+5 118 Greenhouses Interior: Plan of Aquatic- Curvilineats:225: 1. ose eee aoe ee ee 119 Aquatic Plant Pool at Bronx Park, N. Y. (Before the Water is Turned On).......... 120 Seed Vessels, "Dy pes Of tne bacco ee Saas St cesc ee ete A cit ee 124 Roots'of the Water dhilies, “Dypes"Of 5.0.6 .o20.0 sees th ne ee eee 127 Roots of Hardy Water Lilies, Typical.............. Sato Shee pias 22 ee eee 129 Hardy: Water ilies, Dypesy Of. -.0i 2.0 cece Rada cee kos (eet eee 132 Nelumbium speciosum at H. A. Dreer’s, Me eae ING Je ak tvicek aeeiea Gee 135 Calatheas (Gnaranta)ezebritia:.¢.6.0!.. .4.4secahenions sane dase one oan 138 Sub-Tropical Plants at Water’s Edge. ee ce ee eS OB o.00 4 6 139 Cyperussalternitolius, he Umbrella (Plant: 2.4... .090s02840ese eo. eee ee 140 Fatsia*papyritera (Rice Paper Plant) ..<.20s “a abey ee ee Cbegwae oe 184 sr Alt aeage) ap) OCA aay ai 1eO altel gyre es cce\cecvs wane ho Se Sues seed eas oo aeat cree ms todlarote aj Sire maa © 2 abcess 185 Gold Fish—Common Gold Fish and Golden Ide.................... 0. ce ee ee eee ee 193 Cold@kish« Wynesvot Mine Japanese... lo... sce s. seem os see esas rss neh ae as cose 195 DOUBLE PAGE PLATES Water Garden at Twin Oaks, The, Washington, D. C. ................ Between pages 80-81 Formal Water Garden, Design of a (Diagram)....................- Between pages 144-145 NYMPHAEA MARLIACEA ROSEA [7] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING ied Me Ayo zeay uns Aq peuiem puod e ur ‘uado 243 ur Burmoir APUEA & 29 L—VYIOdaA VIAOLOIA —— THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING PREFACE HERE is no more fascinating pursuit connected with Horticulture, none that gives greater pleasure and enjoyment to the owner, than the cultivation of a water garden. This is brought about from var- ious reasons, chief among which is the important part played by water in all well- ordered landscape effects; secondly, the wealth and diversity of color, the great range of beauty, the interesting historical associations of many of the water plants employed and their unique manner of flowering—for some varieties there are that unfold their untold loveliness when kissed by the first rays of the morning sun; others, again, like fairy craft, anchored in a miniature moonlit sea, disclose their gorgeousness and glory to the Queen of Night, and hold sweet communion with the silent stars. Then, too, there is the attractiveness which the plants nec- essary to the embellishment of the environments of a water garden present. While the charm of running streams, lakes and ponds in the landscape has ever been patent to all Nature lovers, it is only of late years that the intrinsic worth of the water garden proper and its lovely denizens, both vegetable and finny, as part of the adornment of public parks and private grounds, has be- come fully appreciated. A little over half a century ago the only plant of importance found in greater or less expanses of water, in most landscape designs, was the Richardia alba, pop- ularly known as the Calla or Lily of the Nile, immense specimens of which are recorded. The beautiful native “Pond Lilies,” floating peacefully, silently, on the surface of pond or pool, their gorgeous blooms sparkling in the Summer sun, had always been admired; collections of water lilies had been gotten together by botanical institutions, but as yet their decorative value in garden work had not been fully realized. We read that in England, in 1849, when the aquatic greenhouse was built at Chatsworth for the sole purpose of growing Victoria regia, Nympheeas and other water plants, it was regarded as a new departure in ornamental gardening. It was nearly thirty years later when the capabilities of water lilies in garden work [9] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING began to receive deserved attention in the United States, the seeming neglect of or indifference to them here being accounted for by the fact that the varieties then available were not of a character to appeal to the general public, being mostly tender kinds, needing special care and facilities possessed by but few growers. There was, of course, a fair number of varieties of the hardy white Nympheeas, but it was not until the discovery of the pink sport of Nymphzea odorata on Cape Cod, and the introduction of Nymphzea alba rosea from Lake Fayer, Sweden, a few years afterward, that interest in these plants in America was quickened. Perhaps the greatest impetus given to water gardening, both at home and abroad, resulted about the year 1887, when M. Marliac, a French specialist, intro- duced his magnificent hardy varieties, many of them still unsurpassed in shades of yellow and of pink. Since that time the enthusiasm in water gardening everywhere has kept on increasing. Hybridizers have been bringing forth new and improved varieties, both hardy and tender, of resplendent colors and graceful forms, and to-day there is hardly a garden of any pretensions without its water lily pool or basin, quietly nestling amid its appropriate surroundings. Our park superintendents now fully recognize the attraction which the water lily pond possesses for the general pub- lic, and are catering to this admirable popular taste by the installation of water gardens in these breathing spots of the people. But it is not alone to the gardens of the wealthy, nor to the public parks, that the cultivation of water lilies is confined. These plants are grown and ad- mired by hundreds throughout the land to whom the art of gardening in its every phase forcibly appeals—a taste that is ever increasing with the growth of our population and which, above all others, reflects the refined character of our people. And it is a branch of gardening that comes well within the limits of the purse of the masses, the necessary first outlay for the full enjoyment of water lily cul- tivation being practically nominal. In recent years a considerable amount of fugitive literature on the culture of the water lily has appeared in various periodicals; and one or more books as well are devoted to the subject. The object of the present work is not to sup- plant, but rather to supplement what has already been so ably presented. The volume now offered contains a record of the author’s practical experience with this class of charming plants, extending over a period of fifteen years. It [10] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING is a heart to heart talk, devoid of literary pretension, with those of kindred tastes to my own, and it is intended to form a working vade mecum which may lead to a better knowledge and a more complete understanding of everything connected with the cultivation of a race of garden subjects which, for beauty and grace, comprehensiveness of colors and historical associations, to me, stands unrivaled in all Flora’s realm. The preparation of the illustrations contained in this volume, the great ma- jority of which have been made by the author direct from the material obtainable in the water garden under his personal supervision, has been a labor of love for some years, and it is his trust that they will add to the interest of the book and prove an incitement to its readers. For the preparation of the manuscript for the printer I am indebted to Mr. Alexander Wallace, Editor of The Florists’ Exchange, New York. I also desire to acknowledge the many valuable suggestions made and help- ful aid otherwise rendered by Mr. A. T. De La Mare, president of the publish- ing firm, distributors of the work. My earnest desire is that my interested readers, who follow the advice herein contained, will reap from the putting of it into practical operation the great pieasure in this healthful branch of gardening practice that has been mine these many years. PETER BISSEYL. Twin Oaks, Washington, D. C., May, 1907. THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING CHAPTER I FOREWORD ISTORY records that from the earliest times it has been customary for mankind to recognize in certain plants and flowers some peculiar form of intrinsic beauty or economic value sufficient to induce the selection of these subjects from among their fellows as worthy of the highest adoration and honor. Such a distinction has been accorded water lilies, dating back to the remotest ages. Students of botanical lore tell us that the Nelumbium speciosum, as it is universally known, probably among the first plants to be thus singled out, was held sacred by the ancient Egyptians, the sculptured floral repre- sentations found among the ruins of temples in Egypt testifying to the venera- tion paid to this plant by the dwellers in the land of the Pharoahs. And not only in Egypt was the Lotus worshipped, but it was also deemed sacred by the natives of India, Tibet, China and Japan, being to a greater or less extent still employed in religious invocations and ceremonies in these countries. It is worthy of men- tion, however, that some modern writers challenge the heretofore generally ac- cepted tradition that Nelumbium speciosum (Nelumbo nucifera) is the “sacred Lotus” of the Nile. Although Theophrastus and other ancient historians asser: that it is indigenous there, in recent writings it is stated that Nelumbium spec- iosum is not now found in Egypt or in Africa. Wilkinson, in his “Ancient Egyptians,” states: “It is never introduced into the sculptures as a sacred em- blem, or indeed as a production of the country.” One of the most exhaustive works dealing with a discussion of this subject is that excellent volume entitled, “The Grammar of the Lotus,” by Professor Wm. H. Goodyear, M. A., Curator of the Department of Fine Arts in the Brooklyn (N. Y.) Institute of Arts and Sciences. In that work Professor Goodyear points out that it is Nymphzea Lotus or N. ceerulea, the former the white, the latter the blue Lotus, and both native Egyp- tian plants, which is figured in the ornamental patterns of the monuments. “The ‘Rose Lotus’,” adds Professor Goodyear, “may possibly be realistically repre- sented in ancient Egyptian paintings, just as the Palm and many other plants [12] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING appear, but such cases must be extremely rare, as none can be found in the great folio publications of Egyptian antiquities, or in the typical ornaments exhibited by Egyptian museums. As far as the typical ornaments or typical patterns are concerned, the ‘Rose Lotus’ is not to be found.” It is now generally understood that the plant was introduced into Egypt from India, its native habitat. Beauty of flower alone, however, was not the only quality possessed by the Nelumbium compelling the admiration and veneration of the ancients, for the plant had as well utilitarian properties that appealed to them and rendered it of considerable economic value. The root stocks and seeds were prepared and eaten as food by the inhabitants of China, India and Australia. In Cary’s translation of Herodotus, speaking of the Egyptians, it is recorded as follows: “But to obtain food more easily, they have the following inventions: when the river is full, and has made the plains like a sea, great numbers of lilies, which the Egyptians call lotus, spring up in the water; these they gather and dry in the sun; then having pounded the middle of the lotus, which resembles a poppy, they make bread of it and bake it. The root also of this lotus is fit for food, and is tolerably sweet, and is round and of the size of an apple. There are also other lilies, like roses, that grow in the river, the fruit of which is contained in a sep- arate pod that springs up from the root, in form very like a wasp’s nest; in this there are many berries fit to be eaten, of the size of an olive stone, and they are eaten both fresh and dried.’ It is believed that from this statement of Herodotus the popular error has arisen that the Lotus was a native Egyptian plant, and, although he made no reference to the subject of Egyptian ornament, that Nel- umbium speciosum was the typical sacred plant of Egypt. Nelumbium specio- | sum has also a medicinal value which lies in the viscid juice of the leaf stalks. Though one species of Nelumbium—luteum, the charming yellow-flowered | Lotus—is indigenous to North America, it was not until some time in the sev- | enties that Nelumbium speciosum (Nelumbo nucifera) reached this country from | Japan through the instrumentality of the late Thomas Hogg, an Oriental traveler, | who introduced many of our best known plants in cultivation from that wonder- ful country. Mr. Hogg sent roots of the Nelumbium speciosum to the late Isaac Buchanan, florist, who planted them in a running stream on his grounds in Astoria, Long Island, but, unfortunately, they perished. At a subsequent date, Samuel Henshaw, a well-known landscape gardener, narrates having received some roots from the same source, which he planted in an artificial pond in a garden on Staten Island, New York, where they grew and flourished. Mr. Hen- [13] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING shaw’s success with this and other aquatics led him to introduce water gardens into various landscape designs carried out by him, he having first become ac- quainted with the merits of the water lilies at Chatsworth, England. The cultivation of the Nelumbium as a commercial plant in the United States was first engaged in by E. D. Sturtevant, then of Bordentown, N. J., now of California, who, about the same time as Mr. Henshaw received his tubers from Japan, secured a number from Kew Gardens, England. These were planted in a sheltered mill pond in shallow water where their hardiness was fully demon- strated, stock obtained from them being distributed to all parts of the United States. No less interesting and beautiful are the various forms of Nymphza, as well as the gigantic Victorias, historical data regarding the latter of which will be found in another chapter. Nymphzea odorata was probably the first foreign Nymphea to reach England, having, it is said, been introduced into that country about 1786, although the English species, Nymphzea alba, had been recognized long anterior to that date. In addition to their exquisite flowers some of the Nympheas possess economic properties. The root stocks of Nymphea alba con- tain gallic acid, and on that account are said to be useful for dyeing purposes ; they also contain a large quantity of starch. The French use them in the prep- aration of a kind of beer. Water lilies are found in a wild state in nearly all of the countries of the world. From South America we get the well-known Victoria regia; from Mexi- co, Nymphzea Mexicana and Nymphea gracilis; from our own country come the charming Nymphza odorata, Nymphaea tuberosa, Nymphzea flava, Nymphza elegans, and the beautiful Nelumbium luteum already mentioned. From Europe we get the chaste white water lily, Nymphzea alba; the red-colored one, Nymphza alba rosea, which is a native of Sweden; also Nymphza candida from Bohemia. Irom far off Australia comes one of the finest of the blue water lilies, Nymphzea gigantea. From China we get that little gem, Nymphza tetragona or pygmza; from India the deep, red-colored night flowering Nympheza rubra, likewise the first cousin of the Victoria regia, Euryale ferox; from Egypt the Nymphza Lotus, and from Africa the deep royal purple Nymphza Zanzibarensis, while from Japan the many beautiful and stately forms of the Nelumbium are obtained. The colors of the flowers range from the purest white through soft delicate shades of pink to the deepest reds; from the deepest purple through the lighter shades of blue to the palest blue imaginable, and from pale yellow through the deeper shades to salmon. [14] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING Nearly all of the flowers have a delicious fragrance, ranging from the deli- cate tea odor of Nymphza tetragona through the stronger scented Nymphza odoratas to the almost overpowering vanilla scented Victoria regia. There is also a great difference in the hours of expanding their blooms. Many of the water lilies open their flowers soon after daybreak, others later in the morning, remaining open for the greater part of the day; while the evening is ushered in by the opening of the night flowering Nymphza Lotus, Nympheea rubra and their host of varieties, these remaining open throughout the night and well on to noon of the following day; the enchanting Victoria regia also throws open its cream-colored flowers as the day darkens into night. “Misty moonlight, faintly falling O’er the lake at eventide, Shows a thousand gleaming lilies On the rippling waters wide. “White as snow, the circling petals Cluster round each golden star, Rising, falling, with the waters, Moving, yet at rest they are. “Winds may blow, and skies may darken, Rain may pour, and waves may swell; Deep beneath the changeful eddies Lily roots are fastened well.” Water lilies differ from each other not only in the color of their blooms and their time of opening, but also in the length of their flower stems. Many of the blossoms float on the surface of the water; others have stems that carry the flowers from three to fifteen inches above the surface, the blooms ranging in size from those of the little Nymphza pygmza of two inches to that of the wonderful Nymphea dentata of fifteen inches in diameter. The plants also differ in the characteristics and color of their foliage; many have floating leaves, others have the center leaves raised above the water, espe- cially those of Nymphza tuberosa ancestry. Some of the leaves are green, others reddish bronze, while many are beautifully mottled with chocolate spots on a green ground. The great variation in the form of flower, in the colors, and in the growth of the plants, coming as they do from many countries, lend to the occupants of the water garden a charm and a fascination that no other style of garden possesses. [15] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING NISV@ IVIDIMILUY JOUVI V NI SVAVHAWAN ACUVH THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING CHAPTER I] PONDS AND BASINS Concerning the Importance of a Carefully Selected Site N selecting the location of a pond, or pool, in which to grow water lilies, the ground should be gone over carefully, and a site chosen where a supply of water, either from a natural stream or from an artificial source, will be pro- vided. The location should, if possible, be sheltered by buildings, by a planting of trees and shrubs far enough away from the edge of the pond that they will not overshadow the water, or by a high bank on the northwest, northeast, and north, but open toward the south, southwest, and southeast. This will insure the full benefit of the sun’s rays in warming the water, and, at the same time, afford protection from high winds that soon would | fuin the tropical growth of the tender water lilies and the sub-tropical plants in | the surrounding borders. If the pond is intended for the growth of hardy kinds | only, it will not be necessary to protect it, as these will thrive in a much lower | temperature than the tender ones, and the leaf surface of the hardy sorts is so small that they are never seriously damaged by the wind. Making Artifcial Ponds Having decided upon the location of the pond, stakes should be driven into the ground, a few feet apart, outlining the edge. In making a pond for the cul- tivation of water lilies for pleasure, it is well not to have it so wide that one can- not enjoy the flowers at close range. The greatest width should not exceed 75 feet. The flowers never rise above the water more than fifteen inches, except in the case of the Nelumbiums, which grow to a height of from two to eight feet out of the water. But, with water lilies proper, one has to get near them to en- joy the full beauty and exquisite coloring of the flowers. [17] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING If it is desired to have a greater expanse of water than one 75 feet in width, an island, located near the center of the pond and connected with the mainland by a rustic footbridge, should be formed. This island, which should be irregular in outline, and of varying width and height, will afford an opportunity to utilize many rare and beautiful plants suitable for the margins, also flowering shrubs and trees, which, by a judicious selection and careful planting so that they will not shade the pond, will add materially to the charm of the whole when finished. The outline of the island could be marked, at intervals, by heavy boulders, or rocks, so placed as to create a natural effect. The location and size of the pond decided upon, and the outline marked by the stakes, a level should be taken from a point determined either by a natural feature, the supply of water, or the surface of the ground. For best effect the pond should be slightly below the surrounding level, as this will permit of plants being grown right up to the water’s edge, and present a more natural appearance than if the edge of the pond were elevated above the ground. If one is not skilled in the use of the spirit level, or the surveyor’s instrument, it will be ad- visable to get a surveyor to run the levels, so that they shall be exact. After securing the levels, the soil is excavated and thrown up on the banks, or carted away to fill depressions, or low ground, in the neighborhood of the pond. As the pond will generally be located in the lowest part of the grounds, existing depressions filled in with this surplus soil and elevated to the same level will add much to the beauty of the whole. The sides of the pond should slope at an angle of from 40 to 45° if to be puddled with clay. The pond should be excavated to a depth of two feet six inches. This will allow of four inches of clay on the bottom, eight inches of soil, and one foot six inches of water. If the method of growing the plants in boxes or tubs is to be practiced, the boxes would take the place of the soil, and should be twelve inches in depth. If the soil is of a sandy or gravelly nature, through which the water will drain off, some means must then be employed to make the pond watertight, so as to avoid this waste, and provide against the reduction of the temperature of the water through having to supply more to take the place of that lost. Water from springs, or from an open stream, is generally from 15° to 20° colder than that already in the pond which has been warmed by the sun’s rays, and will lower the temperature of the water in the pond considerably if the loss by seepage is very great. The common method, and the least expensive in first cost, is to [18] ae THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING puddle the bottom and sides of the pond with clay. This material can be ob- tained in nearly all localities if one digs deep enough to secure it. The clay is taken in slices of about four inches in thickness, of uniform size, and is placed on the sides and bottom of the pond in the same manner that sod is laid down to secure a lawn. Then the whole is rammed hard and smooth with a heavy ram- mer, care being taken that all joints are closed and no apertures left through which the water can escape. If the clay is too hard to be easily beaten into place it can be made plastic by sprinkling water over it, allowing it to soften a little, when it can be rammed into place. If a good grade of clay, that will cut into slices, is not available, as stiff a clay as can be procured should be taken, chopped into small pieces, mixed with water, turned and chopped several times until all is of the consistency of stiff putty or mortar; this can then be spread over the bottom and sides, in layers, until of the thickness of four inches or more; and after the whole has dried some- what it can be tamped in place. While this puddling method is the most econom- ical as regards first cost, it really is the most expensive in the end, as the clay is always in more or less danger of being displaced by the person in charge walking around the pond while caring for the plants. The clay is also very easily pene- | trated by that great pest of all such ponds, the crawfish, and even that bane of the water lily grower’s life, the water snake, finds the clay easy to puncture. Ln Excellent Material for Artificial Pond Making The very best material that can be used for the formation of all ponds, tanks, and pools is, without doubt, hydraulic cement. An inexpensive and easily made artificial stone can be had that will stand the test of all climates, be proof against all boring pests, and at the same time will not cost much more than the clay method described. If cement for the walls and bottoms is to be used, this decision should be reached before any of the soil is excavated. After the pond has been outlined, another row of stakes should be inserted from six to twelve inches away from the first, forming a double row of stakes. The soil between these rows of stakes should be excavated to the required depth of the pond, care being taken not to damage the sides of the ditch in digging, as this excavation will act as a mold for the wall. If, by misadventure, the sides should be dam- aged, repair the same by inserting rough boards, so as to have the wall of uni- form width. The width of the wall will depend on the degree of frost pressure [19] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING that will be exerted upon it during the Winter. Six inches in width will be am- ple where the Winters are mild; but for the neighborhood of Washington, Dace and farther north, the width must be from nine to twelve inches. It is advisable to have the walls wider at the bottom than at the top. They should slope toward the top on both sides; this will allow the soil, in freezing, to lift upward, and so release the pressure on the walls. After the soil has been excavated from this space, the level of the wall should be determined, and stakes driven in as guides, so that the top of the wall when finished shall be six inches below the level of the surface ground. This will allow of grass, or other plants, to be grown on the top of the wall, thus hiding it and presenting a natural view in harmony with the environments; or the wall may be carried up to form a coping. This space should be filled in with concrete, composed of one part Portland cement, three parts sand, four parts gravel, and three parts broken stone. First mix the sand and cement by turning until thor- oughly incorporated, then mix the gravel and broken stone with the cement and sand. The whole should be turned several times until the different ingredients are thoroughly intermixed, when water should be added, and the mass turned until it is of the nature of a sticky paste; add the water sparingly, or some of the cement will be washed away. When the concrete is ready, it can be conveyed in wheelbarrows to the ex- cavation, poured in, and rammed hard into position. The stones used should not be larger than two inches in diameter, and the gravel from one and a quarter inches down to the size of a pea, the idea being to have sufficient of the small gravel to fill all the interstices between the stones, and the sand and cement to fill in between the small gravel, making the whole wall one solid stone. Care should be taken to secure a good solid foundation or the walls will be apt to crack through settling. If the ground is soft, large stone should be rammed in to give sufficient foundation. Excavating After the wall has dried out sufficiently, the work of excavating the pond proper can be proceeded with. Remove all the soil to the level of the bottom of the wall, then place a large pipe at the bottom and near the end where the over- flow will be, to act as a draw-off pipe for the emptying of the pond. A fair- sized hole should be made below the level of this pipe, somewhere in the pond, to provide a pool for the fish when the water is drawn off. The bottom of the [20] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING pond should be covered with six inches of concrete, mixed the same as that for the walls, and well rammed. After the whole is completed in the rough and all soil adhering to the sides removed, a one inch coating of cement and sand should be put on the walls and bottom, composed of one part Portland cement to three parts finely screened sand, mixed with water, and applied with a smoothing trowel, to give a perfectly smooth surface. VICTORIA REGIA IN LINCOLN PARK, CHICAGO, ILL. Natural Ponds So far we have only treated of artificial ponds, or pools, which require to be excavated. In many places there are natural ponds which, at little expense, can be made very beautiful and a joy to their owners. First consider the source of the water supply: is it subject from any cause to a wash that would render it at times unsightly by the quantity of muddy water carried into it by heavy rains? Or is there a stream passing through the pond from springs which, being colder, will lower the temperature of the water it contains? All streams should be di- verted so that they cannot enter the pond unless desired by the owner or care- taker. This can be easily done by an open ditch, dug so as to skirt the pond, and [21] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING at some distance from it. The banks can be adorned with a choice collection of plants that will thrive in such a place. Or the stream, if not too large, can be led through a terra-cotta pipe to a point below the pond where it can then proceed on its natural course. The water supply can be taken from the stream at a point where the source is above the level of the pond, and the water let in through a terra-cotta pipe, or by an open ditch which can be made very beautiful by planting the sides of it with moisture-loving plants, a list of which will be found enum- erated in another chapter. Some means should be provided for closing the pipe automatically, so that the flow of water can be cut off in time of storm, or at the WIPE NET /g/N C11 MESH BOARD OR FLAT STONE THAT CAN BE REMOVED TO ADJUST BALL FLOAT SEWER PIPE GATE /WLET FROM SOURCE INLET FOR WATER TO POND Showing a satisfactory device by which storm water is excluded from the Water Garden will of the owner. The author has a very satisfactory arrangement for this pur- pose. The supply pipe is fitted with a “sewer pipe gate” which is shown in detail in the sketch “Inlet for Water to Pond.’ The water from the stream passes through a screen of 14-inch galvanized wire mesh, flowing around the sides of the gate into the inlet pipe. The ball-float will rise and fall with the depth of water in the stream, adjusting itself automatically. The volume of water to be admitted into the pond is controlled by bending the rod of the ball-float. When the stream is swollen by a storm and an inflow of muddy water, the ball-float rises, completely closing the inlet so that no water passes through the pipe until the stream has regained its normal level. When it is desired to admit the full ca- pacity of the pipe, the ball can be unscrewed, allowing the gate to open wide. This gate can be purchased from any dealer in plumbers’ supplies, and any in- telligent machinist or plumber can fit up the arrangement as described. [22] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING If no stream is available the water can be taken from a well, or from the city supply where such exists. Wherever it can be carried out the supply should flow into the pond naturally; that is to say, without being forced in by means of a pump. If, however, this is not practicable, an hydraulic ram is an inexpensive and efficient means to elevate the water to the desired height. A ram of the smallest size, which will cost about $9.00, requires a flow of from two to three gallons of water per minute to work it, and a fall or head of three feet; with this head the ram will pump from ten to fifteen gallons of water per hour, raising the water to a height of from fifteen to twenty feet above the level of the ram. For every additional head of a foot the ram will raise the water from five to ten feet higher. Rams can be purchased of sufficient capacity to deliver up to four gallons of water per minute. Another very satisfactory means to lift the water to a higher level is to use a water wheel on the axle of which is placed an eccentric; to this is attached the piston of the pump. This is a very economical arrangement to lift water, the wheel being in perfect control by means of a valve placed on the feed pipe that supplies the water to drive the wheel. One point in which it is superior to the ram is that the water required to drive the wheel is not wasted, as the suction pipe from the pump can be placed in the rear of the wheel, and the water, after pass- ing over the wheel, can be pumped up. This will be of great importance where the water supply is limited. The wheel is operated with but small attention, as there is little about it to get out of order, it merely requiring that the oil cups on the bearings be kept supplied with oil, and new suction cups placed in the pump as needed. A wheel of this description has been in use for many years, working quietly night and day pumping water to an elevation of nearly one hundred and fifty feet, where the water enters a tank in the attic of the residence, overflowing from there to a tank in the stables and overflowing again to the stable yard. * ¢( CONCRET# OR BRICK WALL LR AMET COBO EE > EVE) A TERRACE WATER GARDEN A suggestion for a Water Garden on the top of a terrace. The circular pool to be filled with Nelumbiums, the side pools with Hardy or Tender Water Lilies [23] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING If it is not practicable to use either of these methods a windmill or gasoline engine can be employed to lift the water. It is not necessary, nor desirable, that a stream of water should be contin- ually passing into the pond, if tender lilies are growing in it. All that is re- quired is that the water lost through evaporation or leakage be replaced by a fresh supply. Many are afraid of malaria and mosquitoes proceeding froma pond un- less a continuous stream of water is passing through it; this fear is groundless. If a pond is properly stocked with plant growth, and with a sufficient number of fish of the proper kinds, there will be no malaria or stagnation. And as for the mosquitoes, the fish will take care of all the larve so that not one of these will ever reach the adult stage. SEA SLOSS LISS III YYZ, For small tanks, or pools, located on LLL é Zi LG SOM MGA Warer LEVEL the lawn near the dwelling house, and made of concrete or masonry, walls and bottom, a water supply that will be found adequate for all purposes in the Northeast- ern States, or where the rainfall is sufficient, can be provided by the watershed from the roof of the dwelling, led through a pipe into the pool. This supply will be found ample to restore all loss by evaporation, and will keep the water in good condition for the growth of aquatic plants. It is always desirable to have a pipe of sufficient capacity laid from the bottom of the pond, or tank, to the waste way, or stream, that carries off the waste or overflow of water, it being necessary to empty the pond or tank at least twice a year for the proper preparation of soil and the planting, and again in the Fall for the removal of the roots of the tender lilies. This pipe should / \ CONGRETE % can be done quickly. A straightway valve - | | 7 fitted to this pipe, and located on the bank Plan for a brick wall, on a foundation of concrete just outside the pond, will be found very faced with one inch of sand and cement mortar be of large size so that the work of emptying = | helpful and a great convenience when it becomes necessary to empty the water. [24] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING Another method of securing a natural pond, and one often pursued, where a stream of water runs through the place, is to form a dam across the stream, the soil being excavated to give the pond the desired shape and used to make the dam | or to bring the surrounding ground up to a level. This style of pond, however, is rarely satisfactory and is not to be recommended. The dam is always a weak ‘ point, and being “made earth” the water can easily percolate through it and form | a leak. The stream will also have to be diverted so as to prevent it flooding the pond, an operation which will about equalize the cost of excavating the entire pond. | Basins for the Amateur | These can be made of concrete as already described or built of brick as desired. The depth will be the same as that recommended for the larger ponds, namely, two feet six inches. If it is decided to construct the walls of brick, they should be built as shown in illustration and the two sides of the walls covered with a coating of cement and sand, using sand that has passed through a fine screen. The proportions of this facing mortar should be one part of best Portland cement to three parts of sand. Care should be taken in all cement work not to allow a too rapid drying of the cement; the slower cement mortar hardens or sets the stronger the material will be. The following figures may be of service in computing the cost of a pool, finished in brick work. It takes sixteen bricks of standard size, 8x314x2™%, for every square foot of an eight-inch wall. To lay 1000 bricks it will take one barrel of cement and three barrels of sand. The facing of one inch of cement mortar will take about four barrels for every two hundred square feet. Portland cement costs $2.25 per barrel; generally sand can be procured on the place or from some nearby stream. If, however, no sand is in the immediate neighborhood it can be bought at from $1.00 to $2.00 per yard of twenty-seven cubic feet, the cost depending on the distance of the haul. Hard bricks will cost from $7.00 to $9.00 per 1000. To make the bottom of the pool watertight the bricks can be laid flat with from one-half to one inch apertures between them, these to be filled in with the same mortar as recommended for facing the side walls. The top of the walls should have a coating of the same mortar, or be capped with a stone coping. The basin, or pool, can be located on the lawn, near the dwelling, as then the flowers can be seen at any hour of the day. The time to see the water lily pool at its best is about 10 a. M. At that time the night blooming lilies have [25] | THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING An old mill lead on an amateur s place, be- fore planting, Fall of 1904 Photograph by Mrs. Helen Ripley Eustis, North Tisbury, Mass. The same mill lead in the month of June, 1905, three months after plant- ing, showing what a beautiful spot can be evolved from an unsightly object, by means of suitable plants, and a tasteful arrangement. German and Japanese Iris with Ferns on the left side ; Siberian Iris on the right Photograph by Mrs. Helen Ripley Eustis, North Tisbury, Mass. [26] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING L_WATER SUGGESTIVE DESIGNS FOR SMALL WATER GARDENS ON THE LAWN A basin of circular shape with a coping of stone or cement will look well on any lawn of large extent. If the lawn is of small size, with straight walks in proximity to the basin, one of oblong shape will be more desirable [27] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING not yet closed and the day flowering tender and hardy ones will be open so that the face of the basin will be covered with flowers. Morning, generally, is a very busy time and the sun during our Summer months is nearly always hot. There- fore, one is rarely inclined to visit the water garden about that time, especially if it be located at a distance from the house. Hence the advantage of having the basin as near to the dwelling as possible. Sy) GROUND | SR ND NOTE ADVANTAGE OF STRAIGHT WALL SUGGESTION FOR A WATER LILY BASIN ON A LAWN, SHOWING A SECTION OF THE SAME The shape of the basin will depend on the architecture of the house and the design of the grounds. If formal or natural plantings have been adopted, the [28] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING lily basin should conform as near as possible to its surroundings, that the whole, when completed, may be in perfect harmony.