i fit awe MEARE NYT TTT YN Ta UVITATT ESPN EVE LI ET Pee Ty { 7% : AAR EY TREO OTN RON TE POET x i {aisha ; : asd IPE OPT, hae fay ee Rep f betes or Ree Z Z6ZbE itil A \yR. as 4 > = 9 ) as te gtd d | 7 ee } Re F ) My j of | by EI j ¢j {/ Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2013 http://archive.org/details/britishcentrala0O0john AFRICA + THE RIVER CONGO, FROM ITS MOUTH 7 THE KILIMANJARO EXPEDITION THE LIFE OF A SLAVE THE LIFE OF LIVINGSTONE BRITISH CENTRAL AFRICA AN ATTEMPT TO GIVE SOME ACCOUNT OF A PORTION OF fat LE RRIPTORIES. UNDER BRITISH INFLUENCE NORTH OF THE ZAMBEZI By Peeeia@ARRY H. JOHNSTON, K.C.B. F.Z.S., F.R.G.S., F.R.S.G.S., Fettow or AnrTHropotocicar INsTiruTe Royat Coronrat INsTITUTE, ETC. H.M. Commissioner AND Consut-GENERAL IN British CENTRAL AFRICA WITH SIX MAPS AND 220 ILLUSTRATIONS REPRODUCED FROM THE AUTHOR'S DRAWINGS OR FROM PHOTOGRAPHS NEW YORK EDWARD ARNOLD 70, FIFTH AVENUE 1897 608366 240.5557 DEDICATION WHATEVER MAY BE WORTHY OF PRAISE IN THIS BOOK I,DEDICATE TO MY COMRADES IN BRITISH CENTRAL AFRICA TO THE MEMORY OF THOSE WHO DIED IN A MANFUL STRUGGLE— Captain CECIL MAGUIRE, Dr. SORABJI BOYCE, JOHN KYDD J. G. BAINBRIDGE LizuT. S. ARGYLL GILLMORE, ALFRED PEILE L. M. FOTHERINGHAM, JOHN BUCHANAN, G. HAMPDEN CHARLES A. GRAY, H. BRIGHTON GILBERT STEVENSON, J. G. KING, J. L. NICOLL EDWARD ALSTON, anp Lievut.-CoLoNEL C. A. EDWARDS— AND TO THE ACCEPTANCE OF THOSE STILL LIVING AND WORKING IN THE SERVICE OF QUEEN AND COMPANY WHO HAVE WROUGHT WITH ME SINCE 1889 IN THE BUILDING UP OF THIS CINDERELLA AMONG THE PROTECTORATES or aes PREFACE N ORTH of the Zambezi and in the South Central portion of the continent of Africa, bounded on the north by Lake Tanganyika and the Congo Free State, on the north-east by German East Africa, on the east, south-east and west by Portuguese possessions, lies what is now termed British Central Africa, Protectorate and Sphere of Influence. The Sphere of Influence is much larger than the actual Protectorate, which is chiefly confined to the districts bordering on Lake Nyasa and on the river Shire. The Sphere of Influence is at present administered under the Charter of the British South Africa Company; the Protectorate has always been administered directly under the Imperial Government from the time of its inception. Circumstances were so ordered that I happened to be the chief agent in bringing all this territory, directly or indirectly, under British Influence, both on behalf of the Imperial Government and of the Chartered Company; and though I was ably seconded by Mr. Alfred Sharpe (now Her Majesty’s Deputy Com- missioner), the late Mr. Joseph Thomson, Mr. J. L. Nicoll, and Mr. A. J. Swann, it lay with me to propose a name, a geographical and political term for the mass of territory thus secured as a dependency of the British Empire. On the principle that it is disastrous to a dog’s interest to give him a bad name, it should be equally true that much is gained at the outset of any enterprise by bestowing on it a promising title. I therefore chose that of “British Central Africa” because I hoped the new sphere of British influence might include much of Central Africa where, at the time these deeds were done, the territories of Foreign Powers were in a state of flux, no hard and fast boundaries having been determined ; therefore by fair means Great Britain’s share north of the Zambezi might be made to connect her Protectorate on the Upper Nile with her Empire south of the Zambezi. Vill PREFACE Treaties indeed were obtained which advanced British Territory from the south end to the north end of Lake Tanganyika, where the British flag was planted at the request of the natives by Mr. Swann in the spring of 1890; but the said Treaties arrived too late for them to be taken into consideration at the time the Anglo-German Convention was drawn up. Consequently all our Government could do was to secure from Germany a right of way across the intervening strip of territory; and the boundaries of German East Africa and of the Congo Free State were henceforth con- terminous in the district immediately north of Tanganyika. Similarly the agents of the King of the Belgians were able to make good their claims to the country west and south-west of Tanganyika. Therefore ~ British Central Africa did not ultimately attain the geographical limits to which I had originally aspired, and which would have amply justified its title. I write this in (perhaps needless) apology for a name, which after all is a fairly correct designation of a territory in the South Central portions of the continent separated by several hundred miles from the East or West Coasts and stretching up to the equatorial regions. An almost exact geographical parallel to the British Central Africa Protectorate is the State of Paraguay in South America; which, like British Central Africa, has only free access to the sea by the course of a navigable river under international control. This book, however, will deal only with that Eastern portion of British Central Africa which has more or less come within my personal experience, that is to say it is principally confined to the regions bordering on Lakes Tanganyika and Nyasa and the River Shire. Although for seven years I have been connected with these countries, and have been gathering notes all that time, it is not to be supposed for a moment that the results of my work which I now publish deal more than partially with the many aspects and problems of this small section of Central Africa. The careful reader will be conscious of gaps in my knowledge; but I think he will not find his time wasted by vague generalisations. Such information as I have to give is definite and practical. During my present leave of absence I have deemed it wise to gather together and publish the information I possess while an opportunity offered and before such information is useless PREFACE 1X or stale. Two years’ more residence might have enabled me to answer to my satisfaction many questions about which I am dubious, or of which I know nothing. There will be room for specialists to take up many sections of my book, and using, perhaps, this arrangement of material as a basis, to correct and supplement the statements I have made. MY TABLE IN THE WILDERNESS ACKNOWLEDGMENTS T gives me great pleasure to acknowledge the help I have received from many friends and acquaintances in the production of this book. Sir Thomas Sanderson, kK.c.B., Permanent Under-Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs, has revised the proofs for me ; and Sir Clement Hill, K.c.m.c., and the African Department of the Foreign Office have enabled me to obtain information on various subjects; Mr. Alfred Sharpe, H.M. Deputy Commissioner and Consul for British Central Africa, has given me from time to time interesting notes, and has taken a number of photographs for the special purposes of the book; Mr. J. B. Yule, B.c.a.a., of the North Nyasa district, has lent me many of his photographs and has supplied me with information on native manners and customs; Dr. David Kerr Cross, M.B., has allowed me to use his valuable notes on Anthropology and the Diseases prevalent among Europeans and natives; Mr. P. L. Sclater, r.r.s., Secretary of the Zoological Society, has rendered me great help in preparing the chapters on Zoology, to which also Mr. Oldfield Thomas, Dr. A. G. Butler, Mr. W. F. Kirby and other officials of the British Museum of Natural © History, and Mr. W. E. de Winton, F.z.s., have contributed information. Mr. Thiselton Dyer, c.M.G., Director of the Royal Gardens, Kew, on this occasion (as indeed on all others when I have applied to him) has given his assistance with promptness and cordiality. Mr. Alexander Whyte, F.z.s. (Principal scientific officer in British Central Africa), has supplied me with much interesting information during six years; Mr. J. F. Cunningham, Secretary of the British Central Africa Administration, and Mr. Wm. Wheeler, Chief accountant to the same, have obtained for me photographs and informa- tion under many heads; the Rev. D. C. Ruffele-Scott, B.p. (of the Church of Scotland Mission, Blantyre), collected five vocabularies for me: I have found his dictionary of the Ci-nyanja (Chi-mananja) language a useful book of reference. The proprietors of the Graphic have been very kind in permitting the reproduction in these pages of certain drawings which originally appeared in one or other of their journals. Mr. Fred Moir, the Secretary to the African Lakes Company, placed his photographs at my disposal and helped me in various ways. The Rev. A. G. B. Glossop, M.A., Mr. R. Webb, and Miss Palmer, of the Universities Mission, have been particularly kind in obtaining and lending photographs. I have also derived much information from the notes and reports of the late Lieut.-Colonel C. A. Edwards, of Commander Percy Cullen, Captain W. H. Manning, and Messrs. J. E. McMaster, A. J. Swann, R. Codrington, H. A. Hillier, J. O. Bowhill, the late J. L. Nicoll and Gilbert Stevenson, H. C. McDonald, Rak ACKNOWLEDGMENTS | xi lounie, Donald Malloch, and the late E. G. Alston, of the British Central Africa istration ; while I have also to acknowledge the loan of photographs from Messrs. the late Gilbert Stevenson, Commander Percy Cullen, and many others. ial mention should be made of the valuable Appendix to my chapter on Be any of British Central Africa”—-the list of all the known species of plants here from 1859 to the present day. This list has been prepared for ith, my book, under the direction of Mr. Thiselton Dyer, by Mr. I. H. A., a member of the Scientific Staff at Kew. l be seen from this long list of persons to whom I am indebted for information book represents the summing-up of others’ researches as well as of my own, and ise be awarded to the book, as to the seven years’ work of which it is the praise must be fairly distributed among many workers. It is pleasant to ik that one of my collaborators in this work is a native of British Central H. H. JOHNSTON. ORTHOGRAPHY HE orthography of native words and names used throughout this book (except in the Vocabularies) is that of the Royal Geographical Society. All the consonants are pronounced as in English (except ‘“n,” which stands for the nasal sound in “rizgizg”), and the vowels as in Italian. Where the spelling of an African name is established in a European language it is not altered: Examples— Congo (Kongo), Mocambique (Msambiki), Quelimane (Keliman). CHAPTER I. . ils lp APPENDIX I CHAPTER III. _ ae APPENDIX I CHAPTER V. ae APPENDIX I ” 2 CHAPTER VII. # VIII. APPENDIX I ” 2 CHAPTER IX. APPENDIX I CHAPTER X. APPENDIX I CHAPTER XI. APPENDIX I INDEX Oo ON Aum fF WW N TABLE OF CONTENTS WHAT THE COUNTRY LOOKS LIKE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY ANALYSIS OF NYASALAND COAL . HISTORY Pip eVOUNDING OF THE PROTECTORATE THE PRESENT METHOD OF ADMINISTRATION THE SLAVE TRADE THE EUROPEAN SETTLERS BILIOUS H/MOGLOBINURIC OR “BLACK-WATER” FEVER HINTS ON OUTFIT MISSIONARIES BOTANY THE USEFUL FOREST TREES OF BRITISH CENTRAL AFRICA A LIST OF THE KNOWN PLANTS OF BRITISH CENTRAL AFRICA. ZOOLOGY LIST OF KNOWN MAMMALS OF BRITISH CENTRAL AFRICA . REGULATIONS FOR PRESERVING BIG GAME LIST OF KNOWN BIRDS . LIST OF KNOWN REPTILES, BATRACHIANS, AND FISH LIST OF KNOWN LAND SHELLS, MOLLUSCA, ETC. LIST OF KNOWN SPIDERS, CENTIPEDES, ETC. LIST OF KNOWN ORTHOPTERA, ETC. LIST OF KNOWN LEPIDOPTERA LIST OF KNOWN COLEOPTERA THE NATIVES OF BRITISH CENTRAL AFRICA DISEASES OF THE NATIVES OF BRITISH CENTRAL AFRICA . LANGUAGES VOCABULARIES 363 365 380 473 479 488 533 PAGE Frontispiece MSsteOr ILLUSETRATIONS TITLE An Angoni Warrior , . Vignette on Title-page Portrait of the Author, ix “My table in the wilderness” Borassus Palms on the Shire : Tropical Vegetation on the banks of the Shire The Leopard's resting-place : Central Africa A Tree Fern ““The Genius of the Woods sf (ezcen Teaco) A Bamboo Thicket. : ; “Jack in the Beanstalk’s’’ Country On the Plateau : . The Mlanje Cedar onesie A Mlanje Mountain A Rock Garden on Mlanje Papyrus Marsh and Saddle-billed Storks The ‘‘Sultan’s Baraza” : Mount Kapemba, Tanganyika . On Tanganyika Niamkolo: South end of Tepeayie “His Last Fight”’ Forest on Mount Cholo, British Central Africa ; The Mlanje Range, seen from Zomba after rainfall Native Clearing in Forest Country The Shire at Chikwawa, just below the Mer chizon Falls : Pinda Mountain and Pinda Marah; eee Shire. Part of the Falls of the Ruo at Zoa A Mountain Stream in Central Africa First View of Mlanje Mountain from the Tower Shire On the Upper Ruo The Mlanje Range from the Tuchila Plain Chambi Peak, Mlanje The Likubula Gorge, Mlanje On Lake Nyasa The Lichenya River, Mlanje : The Shire Highlands . : . Portrait of a Young Bushman . Governor's House, Tete The Island of Mogambique, seen from the Mainland . a mountain stream in SOURCE Drawing by the Author. Photograph by Miss Kate Pragnell, “The Lady Photographers,” Sloane Street, S.W. Photograph by the Author. ” ” ” Drawing by the Author. Painting by the Author. Drawing by the Author. Painting by the Author. Photograph by the Author. Photograph by Mr. Wm. Wheeler. Photograph by the Author. Drawing by the Author. Photograph iby the Author. Photograph by Mr. J. B. Yule. Photograph by Mr. Alfred Sharpe. Photograph by Mr. Fred. M. Moir. Painting by the Author. Photograph by the Author. Drawing by the Author. Photograph by the Author. Drawing by the Author. ” Photograph 1p the Author: Drawing by the Author. ” ” ” ” ” ” Photograph by the Author. Drawing by the Author. Photograph by Mr. J. B. Yule. Photograph by the Author. ” ” ” From a photograph. ” ” Drawing by the Author. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS TITLE The Point on the South Shore of Lake Nyasa whence the Lake was first seen by Dr. Livingstone and Sir John Kirk in 1859 Mandala House, near Blantyre. L. Monteith Fotheringham John Lowe Nicoll Group of Wankonde (North Ny asa) John W. Moir ‘ : Frederick Maitland Moir Mr. Alfred Sharpe in 1890 On the Chinde, Mouth of the Zambezi Sergeant-Major Ali Kiongwe Mr. John Buchanan Masea and Mwitu, two of Livin stone s Makololo Outskirts of Kotakota The late Tawakali Sudi; RaabS of Kotakoute etc. North Nyasa Arabs: Bwana ’Omari in the foreground Langenburg, Capital of German Nyasaland Sikh Soldiers of the Contingent now serving in British Central Africa H.M.S. Mosquito, a Zambezi Gunteat Fort Johnston in 1895 Captain Cecil Montgomery Na guice Mr. William Wheeler Mr. Nicoll’s House at Fort jomnston Trees planted by Mr. Nicoll at Fort Johnston (owo years’ growth) The Nyasa Gunboats in Nieata: Bay, West Nyasa Lake Road, Chiromo The Katunga Road in pre- sAdiiniseranien Days. Captain Sclater’s Road to Katunga in process of making Wb Moa Gupniietan : Lieut.-Colonel C. A. Edwards . A Sikh Soldier in the B.C.A. uniform A Sikh Soldier in fighting kit A Sikh Soldier in fighting kit Sikh Soldier in undress Collector's House at Fort Titer Captain W. H. Manning The Raphia Palm Marsh behind Chiwaura’s On the Beach at Monkey Bay . One of Makanjira’s Captured Daus at Nonkey reve The Hoisting of the Flag at Fort Maguire The Beach at Makanjira’s Three of Makanjira’s Captured Daus (Fort Maguire) A Rural Post Office, B.C.A. Watch Tower at Fort Johnston A Sikh Sergeant-Major of the B.C.A. Goauneent Native Soldiers, B.C.A. An Atonga Soldier In Zarafi’s Town SOURCE Photograph by Mr. E. Harrhy. Photograph by Mr. Fred. M. Moir. Photograph by Mr. J. B. Yule. ” rh ” Photograph by the Author. From a photograph. ” ” Photograph by Mr. Fred. M. Moir. Photograph by Mr. J. B. Yule. Photograph by Commander Percy Cullen. Photograph by Mr. J. Trotter. Photograph by the Author. ” bed ” Photograph by Mr. Wm. Wheeler. From a photograph. Photograph by the Author. From a photograph. Photograph by the Author. Photograph by Mr. J. B. Yule. Photograph by Mr. J. B. Yule. Photograph by the Author. Photograph by Mr. R. Webb. Photograph by the Author. Photograph by the Author. Photograph by Mr. Wm. Wheeler. ” ” Photogmanh by the late Gilbert Stevenson. Photograph by Mr. E. Harrhy. ” ” ” Photograph by Mr. J. B. Yule. Photograph by the late Gilbert Stevenson. Photograph by Mr. Wm. Wheeler. Photograph by the Author. Photograph by Mr. J. B. Yule. ” ” ” Photograph by the Author. ” ” ” Photograph by Rev. A. G. B. Glossop. Photograph by Mr. E. Harrhy. Photograph by Rev. A. G. B. Glossop. Photograph by Mr. Wm. Wheeler. ” ” ” ” Photoseent by ibe Author. PAGE 137 138 139 141 142 143 144 145 146 147 148 150 151 153 156 157 158 161 162 163 165 167 169 172 174 175 176 177 178 181 182 IgI 194 199 207 208 209 210 211 212 212 213 214 214 215 217 218 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS TITLE Deep Bay Station Mlozi, Chief of the North Nees AGabe : The Transports on their way to Karonga arriving in Likoma Bay A corner of Mlozi’s Stockade The Nyasa-Tanganyika Road (made by the B. C. se Administration) : . : The Nyasa-Tanganyika Road . In Fort Hill : The Stockade, Fort Hill Mr. Alfred Sharpe in 1896 The Zomba-Mlanje Road a A Footbridge across the Mlungusi (Zomba) The Gardens of the Residency, Zomba . Mr. Whyte in the Gardens at Zomba Barracks at Fort Johnston A Swahili Slave-trader Arab and Swahili Slave- pacers Captured sy the B.C.A. Forces A “Ruga-Ruga” (Mnyamwezi, She raider employed by the Arabs) - . The Consulate, Blantyre A Coffee Tree in bearing : A Planter’s temporary House ; Morambala Mount from the River Shire . Sharrer’s Store at Katunga A ‘*Capitao” In Camp after a day’s shooting Natives making Bricks Cyprus Avenue, Blantyre Eucalyptus Avenue A Planter : : An Ivory Caravan arriving at rotaleots Ivory at Mandala Store (African Lakes Co.) Kahn & Co.’s Trading Store at Kotakota : (1) Bishop Hornby (formerly of Nyasaland). (2) The late Bishop Maples of Likoma . Native Church at Msumba, Lake Nyasa (Universities Mission) Blantyre Church (Church of Scotland Mission) Flowers of the Gardenia Tree . : . Lissochilus Orchids An Angrecum Orchis. ; The Ansellia or *‘ Tiger” Orchis : A Red Lily . ; . Oil Palms near the Songwe River North Nyoes A Raphia Palm : Raphia Palm Fruiting Borassus Palms : Wild Date Palms . A Reed Brake (Phragmites Cr nalnis) Plumes and Young Shoot of Phragmites. Barbed Seeds of Stipa ° XVII SOURCE Photograph by the Author. Photograph by Mr. Fred Moir. Photograph by Miss Palmer. Drawing by the Author. Photograph by Mr. J. B. Yule. ” ” ” Photograph by the Author. ” ” Ie) Photograph by Mr. Wm. Wheeler. ” ” ” Photograph by the Author. ” Photsgraph by Mr. Wm. Wheeler. ” ” ” Fred Moir. E. Harrhy. Photograph by Mr. Photograph by Mr. Photograph by Mr. Wm. Wheeler. Photograph by Mr. Alfred Sharpe. Drawing by the Author. From a photograph. Photograph by the Stevenson. Photograph by Mr. E. Harrhy. Photograph by Mr. J. B. Yule. Photograph by Mr. Fred Moir. Photograph by the Author. Photograph by Mr.J.F. Cunningham. late Gilbert From a photograph. Photograph by Mr. Fred Moir. From a photograph. Photograph by Miss Palmer. Photograph by Mr. R. Webb. Photograph by Mr. Fred Moir. Drawing by the Author, ” ” ” Photograph by the Author. ” ” ” Drawing by the Author. Photograph by Mr. Alfred Sharpe. Photograph by the Author. Drawing by the Author. TITLE Papyrus . A Large Duckweed (Pistia Seratioies) An Albizzia Tree The AWucuna Bean A Baobab Tree The Euphorbia of the Plains Candelabra Euphorbias A Landolphia Liana Sansevieria Fibre Plant Growth of Branches; Foliage; and Gores ee the Mlanje Cedar (Widdringtonia whytez) . Young Mlanje Cedar . F : q A Spotted Hyena The Central African Zebra Head of a Hippopotamus A Wart Hog Head of a Buffalo Horns of Congo Buffalo Livingstone’s Eland Horns of Livingstone’s Eland . A Male Bushbuck Head of a Male Kudu Diagram showing origin and relatiouelips of modes groups of Horned Ruminants : . A Klipspringer A Male Reedbuck A Male Reedbuck’s Head A Male Waterbuck A Female Waterbuck . The Sable Antelope A Roan Antelope Johnston’s Pallah . . The Nyasaland Gnu (Connochetes iaubinils jones The Elephant Marsh The Syndactylous Foot Spur-winged Geese Crowned Cranes A Pelican of Tanganyika A Stilt Plover 3 Head and foot of Fruit- -pigeon The Warlike Crested Eagle (Spizetus Sipe A Small Falcon (falco minor) Nyasa Crocodiles : “ ° “ Chromis squamipennis; Hemichromis livingstonii: Fish of Lake Nyasa Engraulicypris pinguis : . . . A Termite Ant-hill . a : 5 : A Stick Insect A Locustid Insect , : 5 4 The Tsetse Fly : . . An Angoni Man from the West Nees oe A Mnyanja . A: Yao Man. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS SOURCE Drawing by the Author. ” ” ” Photograph by Mr. Wm. Wheeler. Drawing by the Author. Photograph by Mr. J. B. Yule. ” ” ” Drawing by the Author. ” ” ” Photograph by Mr. Foulkes. Drawing by the Author. ” Photograph ‘by the Attar Drawing by the Author. From a photograph. Drawing by the Author. ” ” ” Engraving led by the Zoological Society. Drawing by the Author. ” ” ” ” ” ” ” ” ” ” ” ” ” ” ” ” ” ” ” ” ” ” ” ” ” ” ” ” ” ” ” ” Photograph by Mr. Alfred Sharpe. Drawing by the Author. ” ” ” Photograph by the Author, Drawing by the Author, ” ” ” Zoological Society’s Proceedings. ” ” ” Photograph by Miss Palmer. Drawing by the Author. ” ” ” ” ” ” ” ” ” Photograph by Mr. Wm. Wheeler. ” ” ” PAGE 393 395 397 398 399 400 401 403 405 407 4II 414 416 420 421 423 424 424 425 427 428 432 433 453 454 457 457 458 459 460 461 462 464 465 467 470 470 472 480 ok eS LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS KIX TITLE An Arab of Tanganyika (Rumaliza) A Mtonga Man (to show profile) A Yao of the Upper Shire An Angoni from Mombera’s country Boy with well-developed breasts A Young Mother (showing pendent eee) Wankonde Men A Munkonde from North Nyasa Sketch of Muscular Development in a Yao A Yao Woman Young Munkonde Girl A Mtonga Man ““A Good Mother”’ (Sketch of a EMayante oti) A Yao of Zomba A ‘‘Ruga-Ruga Specimens of Tatooing ; Comb : Plugs foe eagertion in ear, lips, nose, etc. Example of ‘ Pelele” in upper je Another example of the ‘‘ Pelele”’ Wooden Hoe; and wooden Hammer for beatae But bark cloth North Nyasa Native anti tae eed Banana Grove (Mlanje) Wankonde Cattle The Domestic Goat of South atid @eatcal Africa A typical Native House in South Nyasaland A Nkonde House Natives making a prone tree trunk into a canoe A River Pilot Weaving in Angoniland Weaving on the Nyasa-Tanganyika Pistean Women making Pots . Pipes for hemp and tobacco Central African Weapons, etc. African Dancer and Drum Players A Mu-lungu of South sees blowing aS, trumpet. A ‘‘Sansi ” Angoni Warriors Head stuck on a pole after a native war . “Young Africa” Map showing the lines of migration of the Bantu tribes in their invasion of Southern Africa Map of British Central Africa, Oye ae les rainfall, naviga- bility of rivers, etc. — showing Orographical features — showing Administrative divisions Map of the Shire Highlands SOURCE Photograph by Mr. Fred Moir. Drawing by the Author. ” ” ” ” ” ” Photograph by Mr. J. B. Yule. Drawing by the Author. Photograph by the Author. Photograph by Mr. Alfred Sharpe. Drawing by the Author. Photograph by Mr. Wm. Wheeler. Photograph by Mr. J. B. Yule. Drawing by the Author. Photograph by Mr. Wm. Wheeler. ” ” ” Drawing by the Author. ” ” Photograph by the sition Photograph by Mr. Fred Moir. Drawing by the Author. . «Photograph by the Author. Photograph by Mr. Fred Moir. Photograph by Mr. Yule. Photograph by Mr. R. Webb. Photograph by Mr. Fred Moir. Photograph by Mr. Yule. Drawing by the Author. ” ” ” From a photograph. Drawing by the Author from a photograph by Mr. Yule. Drawing by the Author. Photograph by Mr. J. F. Cunningham. Drawing by the Author. Photograph by the late Gilbert Stevenson. Drawing by the Author. To face page 41 ” ” 46 ” ” 154 ny S188 Map of British Central Africa, showing density of population aad distribution of native tribes — showing Mission Stations and Foreign ‘Settlers ane Serlements ¢ 26 33, 392 BRITISH CENTRAL AFRICA Chee TER “I. feat THE COUNTRY LOOKS LIKE EFORE I begin to discourse on the dull facts of history and geography let me try to give my reader some idea of what the country looks like by describing certain set scenes and panoramas. Perhaps from these he may derive a clearer impression of the general appearance and the many diverse aspects of British Central Africa. A steadily flowing river. In the middle of the stream an islet of very green grass, so lush and so thick that there are no bright lights or sharp shadows— simply a great splodge of rich green in the middle of the shining water which reflects principally the whitish-blue of the sky ; though this general tint becomes opaline and lovely as mother-of-pearl, owing to the swirling of the current and the red-gold colour of the concealed sand-banks which in shallow places permeates the reflections. Near to the right side of the grass islet separated only by a narrow mauve-tinted band of water is a sand-bank that has been uncovered, and on this stands a flock of perhaps three dozen small white egrets closely packed, momentarily immoveable, and all stiffly regardant of the approaching steamer, each bird with a general similarity of outline almost Egyptian in its monotonous repetition. The steamer approaches a little nearer, and the birds rise from the sand-bank with a loose flapping flight and strew themselves over the landscape like a shower of large white petals. On the left bank of the river looking down stream is a grove of borassus palms rising above the waterside fringe of white flowered reeds and apple-green mopheads of papyrus. The trunks of the taller palms are smooth and whitish, but those of younger growth nearer to the ground are still girt about by a fierce spiky hedge of dead black-stemmed fronds. The crowns of the palm trees are symmetrical and fan-shaped in general outline, while each individual frond has in its inner side a horse-shoe curve. The colour of the fronds is a deep bluish-green singularly effective in contrast with the grey-white column they surmount. The fruit of the palms, when they can be descried, are like huge yellow-green apples thickly clustered on pendent racemes protruding from the centre round which the fronds radiate. I 2 BRITISH CENTRAL APRICA Behind the palm forest is a long line of blue mountain so far away that it is just a faint blue silhouette against the paler blue sky. The afternoon is well advanced, and in the eastern sky, which is a warm pinkish blue, the full moon has already risen and hangs there a yellow-white shield with no radiance. On the opposite bank of the river to the palm trees is a clump of tropical forest of the richest green with purple shadows, lovely and seductive in its warm tints under the rays of the late afternoon sun. Here are large albizzia trees.! Over the water- side hang thick bushes overgrown with such a drapery of convolvulus creepers BORASSUS PALMS ON THE SHIRE that the foliage of the bush is almost hidden. This green lacework is beauti- fully lit up by large mauve flowers. Above the bushes rise the heads of the wild date palm, and amid the fronds of this wild date here and there a cluster of its small orange fruit peeps out. These palms rise over masses of foliage, and occasionally top the higher trees, growing within their canopy in almost parasitic fashion. This cluster of tropical vegetation will be here and there scooped out into fairy bowers by the irregularities of the bank. Sometimes the trees will overhang the stream where the bank has been washed away. Tiny kingfishers of purple-blue and chestnut-orange flit through the dark network of gnarled trunks, and deep in this recess of shade small night-herons and bitterns stand bolt upright, so confident in their assumed invisibility against a back- 1 A genus related to the acacia with the thickest foliage of pinnate leaves looking at a distance like green velvet. Vetere ink COUNTRY LOOKS LIKE 3 ground of brown and grey that they do not move even when the steamer passes so close by them as to brush against the tangle of convolvulus and knock down sycomore figs from the glossy-leaved, many-rooted fig trees. It is a backwater on the Shire river, or perhaps not so much a backwater as a sluggish branch of the stream which the main current has deserted and left hidden away between bosky islands and the high wooded bank. The flow of the current is not discernible, and the reflections are glassy and mirror-like in their exactitude, except that the surface of the water in the foreground is strewn with oval lotus leaves looking in shape and even colour exactly like those copper ashtrays or cardtrays made in Indian ware with slightly turned-up crinkled edges. The scene is much framed in with overarching foliage and branches from island and opposite bank. On this shore of the mainland TROPICAL VEGETATION ON THE BANKS OF THE SHIRE there are tall acacia trees with smooth pale-green trunks and whitish-green branches, and a feathery light-green foliage spangled with hanging clumps of tiny golden-stamened, petalless flowers which exhale the most penetrating, absolute, and honeyed of all flower scents, a scent so strong that it may be wafted on a still, hot day across a mile of water. In the middle distance is a fine group of trees, elm-like in shape, growing on the river bank above the flood limit. In the farthest distance a few sparse-foliaged acacias stand out against the grey-blue sky above a high fence of reeds. In the nearer distance one clump of spear-like reeds rises from the waterlilies and shows some fine white flowering plumes against the dark background of the forest clump. In the foreground is a huge snag, the relic of a fine forest tree that has been washed down in the flood and stranded in the mud of this backwater. On its branches are perched darters with sheeny plumaged bodies of greenish-black and chestnut-coloured necks ending in a head and spear-like beak, so slim that it seems a mere termination of the angular weapon of the neck. Amongst the waterlily leaves rise the beautiful blue-pink flowers that are styled the lotus. 4 BRITISH. CENTRAL AFRICA We are going to climb a mountain. First there are the low foothills to surmount. ‘The soil is red and hard; the grass is scattered and in yellow wisps, and the many wild flowers are drooping, for it is the end of the dry season. The trees are in foliage, though the rains have not yet fallen, and the young leaves at this stage are seldom green, but the most beautiful shades of carmine pink, of pinkish yellow, of greenish mauve, and even inky purple. Here and there sprays of foliage are in a more advanced development, and are green with a bluish bloom, or of the brightest emerald. But the height of the trees is not great, and their leaves, though large, are scattered in a tufty growth that yields but a feeble patchwork of shade from the hot sun; the branches are coarse, and thick, and seldom straight, they look just like the branches of trees drawn from imagination by amateur water-colour artists. In many cases the bark is still black and sooty with the scorching of the recent bush fires. The general impression of all this vegetation, though one is forced to admire the individual tints of the newly-opened leaves, is disappointing. It is scrubby. The land- scape has not the dignity of a blasted heath, or the simplicity of a sandy desert ; its succession of undulations of low scattered forest of such a harlequin variation of tints is such as to produce no general effect of definite form and settled colour on the eye. But this is a good game country. As you plod along the hard red path, baked almost into brick by the blazing sun acting on the red mud of the rainy season, you will suddenly catch sight of a splendid sable antelope with ringed horns, almost in a half oval, a black and white face, a glossy black body, white stomach, fringed and tufted tail, and heavy black mane; or, it may be, his beautiful female of almost equal bulk, but with smaller horns, and with all the markings and coloration chestnut and white instead of white and black. Unless you are very quick with your rifle, the beast will soon be hid and almost undiscoverable amongst the low trees and bushes. The path is broken here and there by seams of granite. Every now and then there is a regular scramble over wayworn rocks; granite boulders are more and more interspersed amongst the red clay. Between the boulders grow aloes with fleshy leaves of green, spotted with red, and long flower spikes of crimson which end in coral-coloured flower buds—buds which open grudgingly at the tip; the edges of the sprawling aloe leaves are dentelated, and in their tendency to redness sometimes all green is merged in a deep vinous tint. Now there is less scrub, and the trees as we ascend become larger and more inclined to stand in clumps; their foliage is thicker. We are approaching a stream, and its course is marked by a forest of a different type, fig trees of various species, tall parinariums (a tree which bears a purple plum), huge- leaved gomphias, and velvet-foliaged albizzias. On either side of the stream, also, there is a jungle of bamboos, and the path descends from out of the weary glare of the white sunlight on the red clay into a cool, moist, green tunnel through the numberless spear-heads of bamboo leaves. There are many ferns on either side of the stream bank and beautiful carmine lilies! are growing by the water’s edge, but as the rains are still withheld there is but a thin film of water slipping down over the grey rocks and brown pebbles, and the stream may be easily crossed from stepping stone to stepping stone. Then a clamber up the opposite bank and through the bamboo out once more into the scorching sunshine, and so on and on along a winding path through a native village 1 See illustration, page 211. THE LEOPARD’S RESTING-PLACE: A MOUNTAIN STREAM IN CENTRAL AFRICA Woo KEE COUNTRY ;-LOOKS: LIKE y: with its untidy haycocks of huts, its clumps of bananas, plantations of sweet potatoes and tobacco, and adjoining stubble fields where gaunt isolated stalks of sorghum still linger. The blue mountain wall towards which we are aiming rises higher into the sky, and its blue vagueness becomes resolvable into a detail of purple and yellow grey. But though the sun is hotter than ever as it approaches the zenith our continual ascent brings us to a region that enjoys more benign conditions of moisture and coolness at night time. The young green grass is more advanced than down below, the herbage is so thick that the red soil is almost hidden. The wild flowers commence to be beautiful. There are innumerable ground orchids in various shades of mauve or yellow, or with strange green blossoms, or flowers of richest orange. A beautiful white clematis grows from an upright stalk, and here and there are bushes of a kind of mallow, which bears large azalea-like clusters of the most perfect blush pink. Higher up still there are more and more flowers in many shades of blue and mauve and yellow. There is a small kind of sunflower that is a deep maroon crimson, and another coreopsis more like the cultivated sunflower with flaming yellow petals. In moist places— and the path is now constantly crossing small brooks—grows the dissotis, with | large flowers of deep red-mauve. The | path curves and twists and runs up above heights and then down into deep ravines, and still the flowers grow thicker and thicker and more lovely, till in the ecstasy of a colour dream, all remembrance of the sun’s heat, of your great fatigue and your sweat-drenched clammy garments is for- gotten. On the hill-sides there are frequent clumps of wild date palms, some of which rise to a great height with their slender A TREE-FERN stems often bowed or curved and seldom perpendicular. Then you come to your first tree-fern, or if you are a botanist you are delighted with a rare cycad growing majestically alone and looking very much as though it were an admirable piece of artificial foliage executed in green bronze. Still ascending, with a pause here and a rest there in the absolute shade of the great forest trees, tree-ferns become so abundant at last as to make fairy forests of themselves, excluding other arborescence. Then they give way again to densely-packed thick-foliaged forest trees of low growth through which a path winds over many a bole and through many a bamboo bower in deep green gloom. Through this gloom flit the crimson - winged turacos, the lovely genii of the African forest — birds of purple-blue, bluish-green and grass-green silky plumage with a white-tipped crest, red parrot-like beaks, and bare red cheeks, but always, no matter what their species, with the broad, rounded pinion feathers of the wing the most perfect scarlet-crimson ever seen in nature. The loud parrot cries of these 8 BREVISH “CENTRAL APRRICA birds (not unmelodious) echo and re-echo through the forest glades as they call to one another; and here is a crimson flash, and there is a long crimson streak drawn across the green background as they fly backwards and forwards before the delighted intruder. Runnels of water will at times trickle through the black leaf mould of the scarcely discernible path, and you will come to many a fairy glen where the dark, clear, cold water lies in deep pools amongst the ferns. oe x ssl so Se Ni prea ae Aa ““THE GENIUS OF THE WOODS” (GREEN TURACO) The forest for a time will give place to a bamboo thicket, the bamboos perhaps of a different species to those lower down, with smaller and finer leaves of a deeper green; nothing more beautiful than these bamboo glades is to be seen in the way of vegetation. It is difficult to express in words the effect which is produced by thousands of narrow, pointed leaves of shiny surface shaped like small spear blades—a wall of green facets—moving at times with a faint tremor which sends a shimmering of green around you, accompanied by the tiniest whispering sound. No transformation scene ever shown on the stage was so beautiful as a bamboo glade on the high mountain side with, invariably, water falling down the centre of the picture in tiny cascades and the soft ground carpeted with a deposit of cast leaves like thin spear blades of pale gold. — =a a eC eee ee WHAT THE COUNTRY LOOKS LIKE 9 Beyond the bamboos the path becomes terrible. You emerge from the gloom of this first forest belt on to bare rock and obtain glorious views over the flower-braided hill-slopes below, over the band of dark green velvet forest, and beyond into plains that are purple-blue with a diamond flash of water here and there till the horizon is closed up with the palest silhouettes of other mountains. ee The path is now scarcely apparent. It is a hazardous progress up a steep face of smooth polished rock from grass clump to grass clump. Here and there on ledges of the rock where a little vegetable soil may have collected tussocks of grass are growing, and these afford a precarious foothold; nevertheless though there is no good path it is obvious that men often pass this way up and down the mountains since the tussocks of grass that are regularly trodden A BAMBOO THICKET on are grey and dead in comparison to those untouched by the human foot, which remain green. Here the difficulty of your ascent will be lightened by the joy you must feel in the lobelias, if you have any sense of colour. In the crevices of these glabrous-looking mountain ribs will grow bunches of lobelias extravagant in their thousands of blue flowerets. —__ At last the ascent of this mountain wall is safely accomplished, and you fling yourself panting on short wiry turf growing in clumps and know that you have reached the limits of “ Jack-in-the-Beanstalk’s ” country. All the great mountains of South Central Africa seem to be isolated fragments of an older plateau, and most of them present more or less precipitous wall-like sides rising above the foot hills, which latter are created by land slides and débris, or represent smaller remains of the plateau that in course of time have been more worn away than the larger blocks constituting the big mountains or the long mountain ranges. These wall-like sides are naturally difficult of ascent; but when one has clambered up over the edge, and on to 10 BREDISH “CENTRAL ALERT the more level surface of the upraised tableland, it is a veritable “ Jack-in-the Beanstalk’s” country, quite different in aspect to the tropical plains below. Turning your eyes away, however, from the blue gulf which yawns beneath the precipitous ascent of several thousand feet—which blue gulf after analysis by the eye resolves itself into the faint map of many leagues of surrounding countries—you find that the plateau on which you stand is a little world in itself. The general surface is rolling grass land and beautifully-shaped downs, with little streams and little lakes, and little forests ; and again from out of this tableland little mountains of one to three thousand feet, chiefly of granite, rise up into the clouds and in their austere rockiness contrast charmingly with the lawns of short grass, the flowery vales, and the rich woodlands at their base. Altogether the scenery is pretty rather than grand, and if you could forget the ascent you have made and your geographical position, you might imagine ‘“TACK-IN-THE-BEANSTALK’S ” COUNTRY yourself in Wales, and believe that country of this sort stretched illimitably before you for miles and miles, were it not that upon walking a few steps in another direction you suddenly stop shuddering on the sharp edge of an awful gulf—a gulf which on a misty day might be the end and edge of the world. It is a “ Jack-in-the-Beanstalk” country. A little section of land upraised and quite apart from the rest of Tropical Africa with a climate and flora of its own, and as a rule without indigenous human inhabitants. The fauna of these altitudes has usually peculiar features though most of the mammals differ but little from those of the plains. Antelopes, buffalos, and even elephants will scramble to these heights, if they be in any way accessible, for the sake of the sweet herbage ; therefore in your ramblings over these plateaux you may catch sight of big game, and even meet in its train the lion and leopard. The woods of Cape-oak and other evergreens—the branches of which are hung with long sprays of greenish-white lichen, “the old man’s beard”'—are resonant with the ' Usnea, the ‘‘orchilla’” weed of commerce. iwi COUNTRY LOOKS LIKE 11 cries of turacos, possibly a species slightly differing from that found in the warmer climate of the plains or hill-sides. Most of the other birds will be allied to South African, Abyssinian or even European species—large purple pigeons with yellow beaks or pretty doves with roseate tinge and white heads ; orioles of green and yellow and grey; chats, buntings, fly-catchers, plump speckled francolin and tiny harlequin-quails ; few, if any birds of prey, but many great-billed black and white ravens and an occasional black crow. The wild flowers remind one touchingly of home. There are violets, there is a rare primula, there are buttercups, forget-me-nots, St. John’s wort, anemones, vivid blue hound’s-tongue and heather. Unfamiliar, however, are the lovely ground orchids, the strange proteas and the “everlasting” flowers. Also there are strag- gling arborescent heaths, almost like small conifers in appearance, though other forms more closely resemble our own heather. Near the edges of the plateau ON THE PLATEAU amongst the rocks grows a big kind of tree-lily with a gouty, pachydermatous, branching stem and tufts of grass-like leaves. If it be, as I imagine, the early spring when you are ascending the mountain, these otherwise ugly shrubs will be covered with white lily-like blossoms. The air of these lofty plateaux is cool and bracing and the sunshine harmless in the day-time. When the weather is fine the sky is a lovely pale-blue. Daylight under these conditions is one long inexhaustible joy of living. Fatigue is not felt; the sun’s heat is pleasantly warm ; a moderate thirst can be delightfully quenched in the innumerable ice-cold brooks; but when the sun is set—set amid indescribable splendour in what appears to be the middle of the sky, so high is the horizon—nature wears a different even an alarming aspect: unless you have a cheerful log-hut to enter or a well-pitched comfortable tent (with a roaring fire burning at a safe distance from the tent porch) you will feel singularly dismal. Perhaps a thunder-storm may have come on. Enormous masses of cloud may be bearing down on and enveloping you—thunder of the most deafening description breaks around you and Ee BRITISH: CENTRALLY AP RICK re-echoes worse than any roar of artillery in battle from every ravine and hill-side. The drenching rain or the driving mist may be chilling your half-naked followers into blue numbness, and even bringing them, if they are unsheltered, dangerously near death from cold. Even if it be a fine night, and the moon shining, there will be something a little repellent and awe- striking in the world outside your tent. The forest, to the vicinity of which you have come for shelter, is very black, and the strange cries of bird and beast coming from these depths quite confirm the native belief that the trees are haunted with the spirits of the departed. The stars seem so near to you, THE MLANJE CEDAR FORESTS and if in the moonlight you have found your way over the tussocky grass to the edge of the plateau and looked forth on a sleeping universe you feel a little frightened— ‘so completely are you aloof from the living world of man. It is much pleasanter, therefore, to be shut up in a good tent or log cabin, snugly ensconced in bed (for it is probably freezing hard) reading a novel. We are on the upper plateau of Mlanje, grandest of all British Central African mountains. It is early morning, say 6.30 am. We have been roused by our native attendants, have had a warm bath and a cup of coffee and are now inspecting our surroundings in the glory of the early sunshine. On the short wiry grass there lies a white rime of frost as we walk down the slope to the cedar woods. Here rises up before us a magnificent forest of straight and noble trees, of conifers? which in appearance resemble cedars of Lebanon 1 Wrddringtonia whyte?. Meet ite COUNERY, LOOKS LIKE 1 though they have also a look of the Scotch pine and are actually in their natural relationship allied to the cypress. Their trunks are straight and the outer bark is often bleached white ; the wood is the tint of a cedar pencil. The foliage which on the older trees grows in scant tufts (leaving a huge white skeleton of sprawling branches) on the younger trees is abundant, bluish-green ON MLANJE MOUNTAIN below and the dark, sombre green of the fir tree above. The extremities of each branch have a pretty upward curl. Much of the undergrowth of these cedar woods is a smaller species of Widdringtonia with a lighter green foliage, most gracefully pendent and starlike in each cluster of needles. Oh! the deep satisfying peace of these cedar woods. The air is thick with the odour of their wholesome resin. The ground at our feet is a springy 14 BRITISH CENTRAL A®PRICA carpet of emerald green moss out of which peep anemones and _ primulas. Here indeed when the mild warmth of the day has dried up the night dews might one lie half stupefied by the rich aroma of the cedar wood, “the world forgetting, by the world forgot,’ while the big purple pigeons with white- streaked necks and yellow beaks resume their courtship on the branches above A ROCK GARDEN ON MLANJE our heads. Beyond the cedar wood is the mountain-side strewn with innumer- able boulders and cubes of rock which are interspersed with huge everlasting flowers and a strange semi-Alpine vegetation. If we are trying to scramble up these to reach the summit we shall hear from time to time the musical trickle of water in caverns and holes, closed in by these strong boulders and thickly hung with mosses and ferns. Should we then have reached any of the great summits of Mlanje and looked down into its central crater we shall realise that here must have been at one time volcanic action. The PAPYRUS MARSH AND SADDLE-BILLED STORKS Mota rie COUNTRY LOOKS. LIKE 17 scene before us is an indescribable wilderness of stones and boulders which look as though they had been hurled right and left from some central eruption. ! On the left-hand side stretches an arid plain of loose friable soil once formed below the water, and white with the lime of decomposed shells blazing in the reverberating sunshine of noonday—the refracted heat of its surface so great that the horizon quivers in wavy lines before our half-blinded eyes; on the other side a papyrus marsh with open pools of stagnant water. Beyond the arid waste of light soil on which a few grey wisps of grass are growing, lie the deep blue waters of a lake—almost an indigo blue at noonday and seen from this angle. Behind the papyrus marsh is a line of pale blue-grey mountains —a flat wash of colour, all detail veiled by the heat haze. We are at the mouth of a great river and the marshes on one side of us repre- sent either its abandoned channels half dried up or its back water at times of overflow. For a mile or so the eye, turning away with relief from the scorching, bleached, barren plain which lies between us and the lake, looks over many acres of apple-green papyrus. The papyrus, as you will observe, is a rush with a smooth, round, tubelike stem, sometimes as much as six feet in height. The stem terminates in a great mop-head of delicate green filaments which are often bifid at their ends. Three or four narrow leaflets surround the core from which the filaments diverge. If the papyrus be in flower small yellow-green nodules dot the web of the filaments. With the exception of this inflorescence the whole rush—stem, leaves, and mop-head—is a pure apple- green and the filaments are like shining silk. The water in the open patches in between the islands and peninsulas of papyrus is quite stagnant and unruffled and seemingly clear. Sometimes the water is black and foetid but its tendency to corruption is often kept in check by an immense growth of huge duck weed,—the Pesta stratiotes, for all the world like a pale green lettuce. A pair of saddle-billed storks are wading through the marsh, searching for fish and frogs and snakes. Their huge beaks are crimson-scarlet, with a black band, and their bodies are boldly divided in coloration between snowy white, inky-black, and bronze-green. On Lake Nyasa. The steamer on which you are a passenger, in imagina- tion, has left her safe anchorage in the huge harbour of Kotakota in the early morning and rounding the long sandspit which shields the inlet from the open lake, finds herself breasting a short, choppy sea. The waves at first are a muddy green where the water is shallow but soon this colour changes to a deep, cold, unlovely indigo. A strong southern breeze is blowing in your teeth and each billow is crested with white foam. The “ Mwera” or south-easter—the wind which ravages the lake at certain times—is to-day against you, and you are condemned by circumstances to steam southwards opposed by this strong gale. As you get out into the middle of the lake the situation is almost one of danger, for the vessel on which you are travelling, though dignified with the name of “steamer,” is not much larger than a Thames steam launch. In such weather as this she could not possibly go far with the billows on her beam 1 These isolated fragments of granitic rock are found miles away from the Mlanje mountain in the plains below bearing all the appearance of having been hurled through the air for miles into the surround- ing country. Mlanje mountain is evidently a large slice left of the pre-existing tableland from which again volcanic cones have risen. 2 18 BRITISH CENTRAL APRICA or she would be rolled over; then again if the steamer went northwards with a following sea she would be speedily swamped; her only course—and it happens on this occasion to fit in with preconcerted arrangements—is to steam southwards, facing both wind and waves. At times the vessel seems to be standing on end as she crests some huge ridge of water; and as she descends into the furrow this broad-backed roller comes up under her stern and floods the upper deck. Then again she mounts, to fall again and mount again and fall again, until the best sailor in the world would be dizzy with this hateful see-saw motion. In fact, if it were not quite so dangerous, an ordinary passenger would give way to seasickness; yet on this occasion you are too frightened that the ship may be swamped and founder to bestow much attention on the qualms of your stomach. But the captain is hopeful, and tells you that as this is the third day the wind has been blowing it will probably cease towards the evening. Overhead, in spite of the whistling wind, the sky is clear of clouds and a pale blue. The lake is dark indigo, flecked with white foam—not the rich, creamy, thick, white froth of saltwater, but a transparent clear foam like innumerable glass drops reflecting the sunlight coldly from many facets. The lake is perhaps forty miles broad. North and south there is a clear sea horizon. East and west there are pale greyish-blue outlines of mountain ranges; but owing to the driving wind and the slight diffusion of spray at lower levels, or some such atmospheric cause, the lower slopes of the mountains are invisible and the distant land has no direct connection with the sharp-cut line of the indigo, foam-flecked water. But with the afternoon heat the wind gradually lessens in force—lessens to a positive calm an hour before sunset ; and the waters of the lake so easily aroused are as quickly and as easily appeased. As the wind diminishes in force the waves grow less and less till they are but a gentle swell or a mere ripple. At last, half an hour before sunset, you have the following scene before you. The steamer is now travelling smoothly and on an even keel along the south-east coast of Nyasa. The eastern sky is a yellowish white, which near the horizon becomes a very pale russet pink. The distant range of mountains facing the rays of the almost setting sun has its hollows and recesses and ravines marked in faint shadows of pinkish-purple, while the parts bathed in sunlight are yellowish grey. On the left-hand side of the picture the land projects somewhat into the lake in a long spit surmounted with low wooded hills, where the ground is reddish-brown dotted with white rocks, and the trees are a warm russet green in their lights and mauve-blue in their shadows. In the middle of the view, breaking the long line of the water horizon under the distant mountains are three warm-tinted blots of brown-pink, that represent three islets. The water of the lake, however, gives the greatest feast of colour. Its ground tint near the horizon is a lemon white, which changes insensibly to silver-blue close up to the ship’s side. But this immobile sheet of lemon- white, melting into palest azure, is scratched here and smeared there (like plush which has had the nap brushed the wrong way) with streaks and patches of palest amber. The whole effect is that of a great mirror of tarnished silver. The amber-white of these disconnected areas of ripples, where the expiring breeze faintly ruffles the perfect calm of the reflected sky, resembles the pinkish brown stains on a silver surface just becoming discoloured from exposure to the light. WHAT THE COUNTRY LOOKS LIKE 19 Presently it will be night with a sky of purple grey studded with pale gold specks of stars and planets, all of which will be reflected in the calm lake, so that the steamer will seem to be carving her way through a liquid universe. In a native village near to a great river there are three Europeans in a hut. Although styled generically a “hut” this native dwelling is of considerable size, with a high-peaked thatched roof like a broad-mouthed funnel in shape, the straggling ends of the thatch coming down to within a couple of feet of the ground and so, to some extent, shielding from the sun the raised verandah of grey mud which runs half round the outside. But the low-hanging thatch screens the doorway into the hut, making the interior dark even though the European occupants have broken small holes in the clay walls to let in a little more light from the shaded verandah. Inside, the rafters of palm ribs, which form the structure of the roof, are all shiny cockroach-black with the smoke of many months which has ascended to the roof and found its way out through the thatch. Cobwebs, covered with soot, hang from the rafters. Of the three white men inside this hut two are well and hearty—faces red, and arms sun-tanned—and are seated upon empty provision cases: the third is sick unto death, with dull eyes, haggard cheeks and—if there is daylight enough to see it by—a complexion of yellowish-grey. He is stretched on a low camp bed, is dressed in a dirty sleeping suit, and partially covered by two trade blankets of garish red, blue and yellow, one of which slips untidily to the dusty floor of hardened earth. The two healthy men are smoking pipes vigorously ; but the smell of strong Boer tobacco is not sufficient to disguise the nauseous odours of the sick room, and the fumes of whisky, which arise both from an uncorked bottle and from the leavings of whisky and water in two enamelled- iron cups. By the sick man’s bedside on a deal box is an enamelled-iron basin con- taining grey gruel-like chicken broth, in which large bits of ship’s biscuit are floating. The soup has been made evidently without skill or care, for it has the yellow chicken fat floating on the top and even an occasional drowned feather attached to the sodden remnants of fowl. Also, there are a cup containing strong whisky and water (untouched), a long-necked bottle of lime juice, and a phial of Quinine pills. The sick man turns ever and anon to the further side of the bed to vomit, and after one of these attacks he groans with the agony of futile nausea. “Cheer up, old chap!” says one of his companions, “we sent yesterday morning to the doctor-man at the mission station: it is only about thirty miles away and he ought to be here this afternoon.” The doorway is darkened for a moment but not with the doctor’s advent. A negro girl has stooped under the thatch to enter through the low doorway and for a moment obscures the dubious light refracted from the small piece of blazing sun-lit ground visible under the eaves. “ Here, zz, you black slut,” shouts one of the men (he with the sandy beard and pockmarked face), lifting up a short whip of hippopotamus hide to enforce his remark. ‘‘ Hold on,’ says the other healthy one, a tall brawny Cornishman, with dark eyes and black beard, “it is only his girl; harmless enough too, poor thing, considering she has known him more’n a fortnight. It’s wonderful what these nigger girls ll do for a white man.” ‘* There are all sorts of girls, there is every kind of girl, There are some that are foolish, and many that are wise, You ean trust them all, no doubt, but be careful to look out For the harmless little girlie with the downcast eyes,” 20 BRITISH CENTRAL ABPRICEK sings the pockmarked man, in reminiscence of a smoking concert he attended months ago at Salisbury, before he and his companions tramped northwards across the Zambezi in search of gold and any other profitable discoveries they might make in the unknown North. The woman, who has taken little or no notice of the other men, has seated herself on the floor near the sick man’s bed and is fanning away the flies from his death-like face. He scarcely notices this attention, con- tinuing as before to roll his head languidly across the rolled-up coat which serves as pillow. Outside the hut it is a bright world enough—a sky of pure cobalt, with white cumulus clouds moving across it before a pleasant breeze. Except where these clouds cast a momentary shadow there is a flood of sunshine, making the dry thatched roofs of the round haycock houses glitter; and as to the bare beaten ground of the village site, in this strong glare of sunshine you would hardly realise it is mere red clay: it has an effulgent blaze of flame-tinted white except where objects cast on it circumscribed shadows of a purple black. Two or three native curs, of the usual fox-coloured, pariah type, lie sleeping or grubbing for fleas in the sunshine. A lank, wretched-looking mangy bitch, with open sores on her ears and fly-infested dugs, trails herself wearily from hut to hut, seeking food, but only to be repulsed by kicks from unseen feet, or missiles hurled by unseen hands. Little chocolate-coloured children are playing in the dust, or baking in the sun clay images they have made with dust and water. Most of the houses have attached to them a woman’s compound at the back, fenced in with a high reed fence. If you entered this compound from the verandah, or peeped over the high fence, you would see cheerful garrulous women engaged in preparing food. A steady “thud, thud!” “thud, thud!” comes from one group of hearty girls with plump upstanding breasts who, glistening with perspiration, are alternately pounding corn in a wooden mortar shaped like a dice box. Each in turn, as she takes the pestle, spits on her hands and thumps the heavy piece of wood up and down on the bruised corn. Another woman is grinding meal on the surface of a large flat stone by means of a smaller stone which is smooth and round; again, another wife with the aid of other flattened stones bruises green herbs mixed with oil and salt into a savoury spinach. In all the compounds and about the streets are hens and broods of chickens. Mongrel game-cocks are sheltering themselves from the heat under shaded verandahs, which they share with plump goats of small size and diverse colours—white, black, chestnut, grey ; black and white, white and chestnut, grey and white. The sun-smitten village at high noon is silent but for the low-toned talk of the women, of the “ thud, thud” of the corn-mortars, the baaing and bleating of an imprisoned kid, or the sudden yelp of the half-starved bitch when a missile strikes her. Beyond the collection of haycock huts (occupying perhaps a half square mile in area), is a fringe of bananas, and beyond the bananas from one point of view the glint of a river, and across the river a belt of black-green forest. In other directions, away from the water-side is red rising ground sprinkled with scrubby thin-foliaged trees, among which here and there grows a huge gouty baobab, showing at this season digitate leaves like a horse-chestnut'’s, and large tarnished white flowers that depend by a straight string-like stalk from the pink and glabrous branches. Noon declines to afternoon. The two men who are whole still remain in revi trie. COUNTRY LOOKS LIKE 21 the hut; the sick man is obviously sicker than before. His face is an obscure yellow, he has ceased to vomit, he is no longer restless, he lies in a stupor, breathing stertorously. The black-bearded man smokes, and reads a tattered novelette, glancing from time to time uneasily at the one who lies so ill, but trying to still his anxiety by assuring himself “that the poor beggar has got to sleep at last.” The man with the red hair and pockmarked cheeks sings snatches of music-hall songs at intervals and drinks whisky and water, trying hard to keep up his courage. For he is in a cold-sweating dread of death by fever—a death which can come so quickly. A month ago there were four of them, all in riotous health, revelling in the excitements of exploring a new country, confident that they had found traces of gold, merrily slaughtering buffalo, eland, kudu and sable ; sometimes after elephant with the thought of the hundreds of pounds’ worth of ivory they might secure with a few lucky shots ; killing “hippo” in the river and collecting their great curved tusks for subsequent sale at a far-off trading station ; trafficking with the natives in the flesh of all the beasts they slew and getting in exchange the unwholesome native meal, bunches of plantains, calabashes of honey, red peppers, rice, sugar cane, fowls, eggs, and goat’s milk. They had not treated the natives badly, and the natives in a kind of way liked these rough pioneers who offered no violence beyond an occasional kick, who were successful in sport and consequently generous in meat distribution, and who gave them occasional “tots” of “kachaso,”? and paid for the temporary allotment of native wives in pinches of gunpowder, handfuls of caps, yards of cloth, old blankets and clasp knives. Yes; a month ago they were having a very good time, they were not even hampered by the slight restraints over their natural instincts which might exist in Mashonaland. They had found obvious signs of payable gold—‘an ounce to the ton if only machinery could be got up there for crushing the rock”—they would return to the south and float a company ; meantime they had intended to see a little more of this bounteous land blessed with an abundant rainfall, a rich soil, a luxuriant vegetation, a friendly people, grand sport, and heaps of food; and then, all at once, one of them after a bottle of whisky overnight and a drenching in a thunderstorm next day, complains of a bad pain in his back. A few hours afterwards he commences to vomit, passes black-water, turns bright yellow, falls into a stupor, and in two days is dead. “Was it the whisky, or the wetting, or neither? It could not be the whisky: good liquor was what was wanted to counteract this deadly climate; no, it could not be the whisky; on the contrary,” thought the man who turns these thoughts over musingly in his mind, “he himself must take more whisky to keep his spirits up. When old Sampson was better and could be carried in a hammock, they would all make straight for the Lake and the steamers and so pass out of the country, perhaps returning to work the gold, perhaps not.” The heat of the afternoon increases. The man on the bed still snores, the woman still fans, Blackbeard has fallen asleep over his novelette and Redhead over his whisky and water. The silence of the village is suddenly broken by a sound of voices and the tramp of feet. Blackbeard wakes up, rubs his eyes and staggers out into the sunshine to greet a thin wiry European with bright eyes and a decided manner. “Oh... you are the Mission doctor, aren’t you ? Come in—in here. He is pretty bad, poor chap, but I expect you will do him soto good.” ... It is early evening. The two mining prospectors have left the hut, advised ) Fire-water—whisky. 22 BRITISH CENTRAL APRICA by the doctor to chuck their whisky bottles into the river and go out shooting. The former piece of advice they have not followed, but the latter they have gladly adopted, frightened at the aspect of their dying comrade, and only too glad to leave the responsibility of his care to the Mission doctor, who for two hours has tried all he knows to restore the patient to consciousness, without success. The woman has helped him as far as she was able, the doctor much too anxious about his patient to concern himself about the propriety of her position in the case. Outside the hut there is a cheerful noise of the awakening village settling down to its evening meal. Flights of spurwinged geese, black storks and white egrets pass in varied flocks and phalanxes across the rosy western sky. But inside, by the light of two candles stuck in bottles, which the doctor has lit to replace the daylight, it may be seen that his patient is nearing the end; yet as the end comes there is a momentary return to consciousness. The stertorous breathing has given way toa scarcely perceptible respiration, and as the doctor applies further means of restoration a sudden brightness and light of recognition come into the dull eyes. The expiring man tries to raise his head—cannot! and to speak—but no sound comes from his whitened lips, then one long drawn bubbling sigh and the end has come. A great, untidy, Arab town near the shores of a lake, the blue waters of which can be seen over the unequal ground of the village outskirts and through a fringe of wind-blown banana trees. On one of the little squares of blue water thus framed in by dark-green fronds may be seen part of a dau at anchor with a tall, clumsy, brown mast, thick rigging, and a hull somewhat gaudily painted in black and pink. We are sitting under the broad verandah of a large house, a house which is in reality no- thing but a structure of timber and lath covered with a thick coating of black mud; but the mud has been so well laid on yon oe . and is so smooth, time-worn A ADS libel a een ee SUAS and shiny as to have the . Bo alg appearance of very dark stone. : The roof is of thatch, descend- ing from some forty feet above _ the ground to scarcely more . than five feet over the edge of the verandah. This verandah sia : : only occupies one side of the THE ‘‘SULTAN’S BARAZA” house and is large enough to be—what it is—an outer hall of audience ;' fifteen feet broad and with a raised dais of polished mud on either side of the passage which crosses the verandah to enter the main dwelling. As the interior rooms of this house are mostly unfurnished with windows and only derive their light from the central passage (which has an open door at either end) they are quite dark inside and even in the daytime little Arab lamps (earthenware saucers filled with oil and with cotton wicks) have to be lighted to see one’s way about. ' Called by Zanzibaris ‘* baraza.” Vata THE COUNTRY LOOKS LIKE 23 In front of the house, in the open public square, is a fine cocoanut tree which has been planted from a cocoanut brought from the East Coast of Africa. Across the square a ramshackle building is pointed out as the Mosque, and Arabs of all shades—of negro blackness and of European whiteness—are walking backwards and forwards through the blazing sunshine to perform their ablutions in the court of the Mosque, or to enter the building to pray. The Sultan of the place, in one of whose houses we are tarrying (in imagination) is about to have his noontide meal, and asks us to join. He himself is seated on a mattress placed on a mud bench against the wall under the verandah, and is clothed in a long, white garment reaching down to his heels, over which he wears a sleeveless, orange-coloured waistcoat richly embroidered with silver, a shawl-sash wound round his waist, and over one shoulder a light Indian cloth of chequered pattern brightly fringed. Through the shawl waistband peep out the hilt and part of the scabbard of one of those ornamental curved daggers which are worn at Zanzibar and in the Persian Gulf; this hilt and scabbard are of richly-chased silver. The Sultan has a face which in some respects is prepossessing. It is certainly not cruel though he is known to have done many cruel things. The once fine eyes are somewhat clouded with premature age and the exhaustion of a polygamist ; but there are a sensitiveness and refinement about the purple- lipped mouth and well-shaped chin, the outlines of which can be seen through the thin grey beard. The hands have slender, knotted fingers and the nails are short and exquisitely kept. The taking of food is preceded by the washing of hands. Attendants— who are either black coast Arabs, gorgeously habited in embroidered garments of black, silver and gold, or else dirty, blear-eyed, negro boys, scarcely clothed at all and with grey, scurvy skins (the dirtiest and stupidest-looking of these boys is the Sultan’s factotum in the household and carries his keys on a string round his lean neck) come to us with brass ewers and basins. The ewers are long-spouted, like coffee pots. Water is poured over our hands, which after rinsing we dry as best we can on our pocket handkerchiefs, while the Sultan wipes his on his Indian cloth which is slung over his shoulder and is used indifferently as napkin and handkerchief. Then a brass platter of large size, covered with a pyramid of steaming rice, is placed on the dais and alongside it an earthenware pot (very hot) containing curried chicken. The Sultan having rolled up a ball of rice between his fingers and dipped it into the curry, invites us to do the same. Our fingers are scalded by the rice; but it must be admitted that the flavour of the curry is excellent. When this course is finished a bowl of pigeons stewed with lentils is brought on, and this also is eaten by the aid of our fingers. For drink we have cold, pure water from an earthenware cooler, and the milk of unripe cocoanuts. — The meal finishes with bananas and roasted ground nuts. Then more washing of hands and we recline on some dirty cushions or on lion skins, whilst the Sultan gives audience to messengers, courtiers and new arrivals. Some of these last-named glance suspiciously at us and are not disposed to be very communicative about their recent experiences in the presence of Europeans. The Sultan sees this and enjoys the humour of the situation. He is himself indifferent to the slave trade, having secured his modest competence years ago and now caring for nothing more than the friendship of European potentates, which will enable him to finish his days in peace and tranquillity. After he is gone he knows that in all probability there will be no other Sultan in his 24 BRITISH CENTRAL AFRICA place, but a European official. In his heart of hearts, of course, he sees no harm in the slave trade. He is well aware that he is entertaining at one and the same time European officials of high standing and five or six powerful Arab slave dealers, and that his large, rambling metropolis of several square miles in area harbours simultaneously not only the Europeans and their. porters, servants, and escort, but perhaps three hundred raw slaves from the Lualaba. But he is not going to give his compatriots away unless they make fools of themselves by any attempt to molest the Europeans, in which case, and in any case if it comes to a choice of sides, he will take the part of the European. In his dull way this unlettered man, who has read little else than the Koran and a few Arab books of obscenities, or of fortune-telling, has grasped the fact that from their own inherent faults and centuries of wrong-doing, Islam and Arab civilisation must yield the first place to the religion and influence of the European. He has no prejudice against Christianity—on the contrary, perhaps a greater belief in its supernatural character than some of the Englishmen he entertains from time to time—but if his inchoate thoughts could be interpreted in one sentence it would be “Not in our time,O Lord!” The change must come but may it come after his death. Meantime he hopes that you will not drive home too far the logic of your rule. When he is gone the Christian missionary may come and build there, but while he lasts he prefers to see nothing but the ramshackle mosques of his own faith and to have his half- caste children taught in the Arab fashion. He points out some to you who are sitting in the verandah of an opposite hut, under the shade of a knot of papaw trees ; a hideous old negroid Arab with a dark skin and pockmarked face is teaching them to read. Each child has a smooth wooden board with a long handle, something like a hand-mirror in shape. The surface of this board is whitened with a thin coating of porcelain clay ; and Arab letters, verses of the Koran and sentences for parsing are written on it by means of a reed pen dipped in ink or by a piece of charcoal. There is a certain pathos about this uneducated old coast Arab who has been a notable man in his day as conqueror and slave raider but who has had sufficient appreciation of the value of well-doing not to be always a slave raider, who has sought to inspire a certain amount of affection among the populations he enslaved. These in time have come to regard him as their natural sovereign, though the older generation can remember his first appearance in the country as an Arab adventurer at the head of a band of slavers. His soldiers, most of them now recruited from amongst his negro subjects, cheerfully raid the territories of other chiefs in the interior, but slave raiding within his own especial kingdom has long since ceased and a certain degree of order and security has been established. Let us set off against the crimes of his early manhood the good he has done subsequently by introducing from Zanzibar the cocoanut- palm, the lime tree, the orange, good white rice, onions, cucumbers and other useful products of the East; by sternly repressing cannibalism, abolishing witchcraft trials, improving the architecture, and teaching many simple arts and inducing the negroes to clothe their somewhat extravagant nudity in seemly, tasteful garments. He has known Livingstone and may even have secured a good word from that Apostle of Africa for hospitality and for relative humanity, as compared to other and wickeder Arabs. This casual mention of him in the book of the great “ Dottori”? will cause him a childish pleasure if you point it out. “Has ' The name by which Livingstone is almost universally known in Central Africa. Vereen sCOUNTRY LOOKS LIKE 2s the “Quini’ read this book?” he asks. “Yes,” you reply. “Then the Queen has seen my name?” and this reflection apparently causes him much satisfaction, for he repeats the observation to himself at intervals and even forces it on the attention of a sullen-looking black-browed Maskat Arab who is waiting in the daraza to settle with the Sultan the amount of tribute he must pay for the passage of his slave and ivory caravan across the territory and over the lake by means of the Sultan’s daus. I will transport you to the south end of Lake Tanganyika. In the background to this scene is a fine mountain which, like most Central African mountains, presents from below the appearance of a cake that has been MOUNT KAPEMBA, TANGANYIKA cut and is crumbling. There is first of all the granite wall of undulating out- line bearing a thin line of trees along its crest. Then half-way down its slope begins below the bare shining rock walls a ribbed slope of débris, which slope is covered with luxuriant purple-green forest: the whole estompé with a film of blue atmosphere, which sets it back to its proper place in the distance, so that if you half close your eyes the general effect of this mountain mass is a greyish purple. As if in abrupt contrast to this upreared mass of rocks and trees towering at least 4000 feet into the sky is a slice of bright green swamp, separating the mountain slopes from the lake water. The foreground to this picture is the broad estuary of a river at its entrance to Tanganyika. On your right hand 26 BRITISH CENT RAL« APRICA you have a spit of yellow sand which separates the unruffled mirror of this calm water from the boisterous waves of the open lake. These are greenish blue with brown marblings and muddy white crests where they are receiving the alluvium of the river; and fierce indigo streaked with blazing white foam where the lake is open, deep and wind-swept. On your left hand the estuary of this river (where the water is a speckless mirror of the blue sky and _ its cream-white grey-shadowed clouds) is studded with many green islets of papyrus and girt with hedges of tall reeds—the reeds with the white plumes and pointed dagger leaves that I have once or twice before described. This conjunction of mountain, river, marsh, estuary, sandspit, open lake and papyrus tangle brings about such a congeries of bird life that I have thought it worth the trouble to bring you all the way to Tanganyika to ON TANGANYIKA gaze at this huge aviary. And al- though on many of these journeys you are supposed to be looking on the scene with the eye of the spirit and not of the flesh, and therefore able to see Nature undisturbed by the presence of man, still on this spot you might stand in actuality, as I have stood, and, provided you did not fire a gun, see this collection of birds as though they were enclosed in some vast Zoological Gardens. For some cause or other has brought the fish down from the upper reaches of the stream or up from the lake. The water of the estuary is of unruffled smoothness. Most waterbirds detest the rough waves of the open lake, or the current of a rapid stream; even now if you turn your eyes lakewards the only birds you will see are small grey gulls with black barred faces and black tipped wings and the large scissor-billed terns (grey and white with crimson beaks) flying with seeming aimlessness over the troubled waters. But in the estuary, what an assemblage! There are pelicans of grey, white and salmon pink, with yellow pouches, riding the water like swans, replete with fish and idly floating. Egyptian geese (fawn-coloured, white, and green- bronze); spur winged geese (bronze-green, white shouldered, white flecked, and red cheeked); African teal (coloured much like the English teal); a small jet black pochard with a black crest and yellow eyes; whistling tree duck (which are black and white, zebra-barred, and chestnut); other tree ducks (chestnut and white); that huge Savczdiornis (a monstrous duck with a knobbed beak, a spurred wing, and a beautiful plumage of white and bronzed-blue with a green- blue speculum in the secondaries of the wing). All these ducks and geese hang about the fringe of the reeds and the papyrus. The ducks are diving for fish, but the geese are more inclined to browse off the water-weed. Every now and then there is a disturbance, and the reflexions of the water are broken by a thousand ripples as the ducks scutter over the surface or the geese rise with much clamour for a circling flight. Farthest away of all the birds (for they are always shy) is a long file of rosy flamingoes sifting the water for small fish and molluscs. They are so far off that their movements are im What ere COUNTRY LOOKS! LIKE 277 scarcely perceptible ; against the green background of the marsh they look like a vast fringe of pale pink azaleas in full blossom. Small bronze-green cormorants are plunging into the water for fish, diving and swimming under water, and flying away. Fish-catching on a more modest scale and quite close to where we stand is being carried on by black and white Ceryle kingfishers, who with their bodies nearly erect and the head and beak directed downwards will poise themselves in the air with rapidly fluttering wings and then dart unerringly head foremost on some tiny fish under the surface of the water. On the sandspit two dainty crowned cranes are pacing the sand and the scattered wiry grass looking for locusts. Even at this distance—and especially if you use a glass—you can distinguish the details of their coloration. It will be seen that they have a short, finely-shaped beak of slatey black, a large eye of bluish grey, surrounded by a black ring; and the cheeks covered with bare porcelain-like skin, pure white, which is much enhanced by an edging of crimson developing below the throat into two bright crimson wattles. The head is fitly crowned with a large aigrette of golden filaments, tipped with black. The neck with its long hackles is dove grey. The back and the breast are slate colour, the mass of the wing is snow white, and its huge broadened pinions are reddish chocolate, the white secondaries being prolonged into a beautiful golden fringe hanging gracefully over the chocolate quill feathers. The quacking of the ducks, the loud cries of the geese and the compound sound of splashings and divings and scuttering flights across the water, are dominated from time to time by the ear-piercing screams of a fish eagle, perched on one of the taller poles of a fishing weir. The bird is as full of fish as he can hold, but yet seems annoyed at the guzzling that is going on around him, and so relieves his feelings at odd moments by piercing yells. He is a handsome bird—head and neck and breast snow white, the rest of the plumage chocolate brown. Add to the foregoing enumeration of birds stilt plovers of black and white ; spur-winged plovers with yellow wattles ; curlew ; sandpipers ; crimson-beaked pratincoles; sacred ibis (pure white and indigo-purple); hagedash ibis (irides- cent-blue, green, and red-bronze); gallinules (verditer blue with red beaks); black water-rails with lemon beaks and white pencillings; black coots; other rails that are blue and green with turned-up white tails ; squacco herons (white and fawn-coloured); large grey herons; purple-slate-coloured herons ; bluish- gray egrets; white egrets; large egrets with feathery plumes ; small egrets with snowy bodies and yellow beaks ; Goliath herons (nut-brown and pinkish-grey) ; small black storks, with open and serrated beaks; monstrous bare-headed marabu storks; and dainty lily-trotters! (black and white, golden-yellow and chocolate-brown); and you will still only have got half way through the enumeration of this extraordinary congregation of water birds at the estuary of the river Lofu, on the south coast of Tanganyika. Civilisation—We are going to spend a Sunday at Blantyre, a European settlement in the Shire Highlands. Except for the name, however, there is no similarity between the little manufacturing town, which was Livingstone’s birth- place, and the chief focus of European interests here in South Central Africa. These are the characteristics of the African Blantyre on a bright Sunday 1 Parra Africana. 28 BRITISH. CENTRAL AFRICS morning in May :—A glorious blue sky; floods of sunshine; a cool breeze and a sparkling freshness in the atmosphere which reminds one of Capetown; clean red roads, neat brick houses, purple mountains, and much greenery. The organ is giving forth a hymn of Mendelssohn’s by way of introit as we enter the church, and as, simultaneously, the choir and clergy take their places. The Norman architecture of the interior, the stained glass windows, the embroidered altar cloths, the brass lecterns and their eagles, the carved altar rails, the oak pulpit, the well-appointed seats with scarlet cushions—even the sunlight checked in its exuberance by passing through the diamond panes of the tinted windows—produce an effect on the newcomer of absolute astonish- ment. He requires to fix his eyes on the black choir in their scarlet and white vestments to realise that he is in Africa and not in Edinburgh or Regent’s Park. The congregation consists mainly of Europeans and the service is in English. [The natives will assemble at other hours when worship is conducted in their own language.] A short service with good music, well sung by the black choir, and a quarter of an hour’s sermon: then we are out once more in the sunny square, in a temperature not hotter than a mild summer's day at home, exchanging greetings with many acquaintances, almost all of whom are habited in such clothes as they would wear on a Sunday in Scotland. Some of the men turn out in black coats, light trousers, top hats, patent leather boots, white spats and brown gloves; and the ladies are wearing silk blouses and cloth skirts, with ~ all the furbelows and puffs and pinchings and swellings which were the height of the fashion in London not more than four months ago, for there is an almost pathetic desire on the part of the Blantyre settlers to keep in touch with civilisation.t In the bare, open space which so fittingly surrounds this handsome church, groups of mission boys are standing, respectably clothed in not badly-fitting European garments and wearing black felt hats. They are conversing in low tones, a little afraid of having their remarks overheard by the critical Europeans. They have a slight tendency to giggle, of which they are conscious and some- what ashamed. A long file of mission girls, modestly and becomingly clad in scarlet and white, crosses the square to the native quarters of the mission under the guidance of a lady in dove-grey with a black bonnet and a grass-green parasol. By way of quaint contrast to these reclaimed guardians of the flock is the aboriginal wolf in the persons of some Angoni carriers who, forgetting or ignoring that Sunday was a day of rest with the European, are bringing up loads from the Upper Shire. Stark naked, all but a tiny square of hide or a kilt of tiger-cat tails, with supple, lithe bodies of glistening chocolate (shiny with perspiration), with the hair of their heads screwed up into curious little tufts by means of straw, they glide past the church with their burdens, alter- nately shy and inquisitive—ready to drop the burden and dart away if a European should address them roughly; on the other hand gazing with all their eyes at the wonderfully dressed white women, and the obviously powerful “wafumo”? amongst the white men. A smartly-uniformed negro policeman in yellow khaki and black fez hurries them off the scene, shocked at their nudity, which was his own condition a year ago. A good-looking Sikh soldier—over on a day’s leave from the neighbouring garrison, or else accompanying some official as orderly—loiters respectfully on the fringe of the European crowd. He is in undress and wears a huge blush- rose turban, a loose snow-white shirt, a fawn-coloured waistcoat, white paijamas ! Blantyre in fact is like an Indian Hill Station. * Chiefs. Wikies COUNTRY LOOKS LIKE 29 (baggy over the hips but tight-fitting round the calves) and pointed Persian shoes of crimson leather. His long, black beard has been rolled up after the fashion of the Sikhs, so that it makes a tidy fringe round the jaws from ear to ear; and the black moustache is fiercely curled. We walk away home over a smooth road that is vinous-red, as all the earth is hereabout. First there is an avenue of sombre cypresses mixed with shimmering eucalyptus ; then the road will be bordered by bananas or by the gardens of Europeans’ houses, with neat fences. In all directions other roads branch off, and above the greenery of Indian corn patches, of banana-groves, of plantations of conifers, acacias, and eucalyptus, or clumps of Misuko trees, can be seen the house-roofs of grey corrugated iron, or rose-pink, where that iron has been coloured with anti-corrosive paint. Bright moonlight. In a Hyphene palm forest. Out of the shadow of the trees it is almost as bright as day, every detail can be seen in the dry grass— even the colours of some few flowers blooming in spite of the dry weather. The effect is that of a photograph—a little too much devoid of half-tones, being sharply divided into bright lights, full of minute detail and deep grey shadows, like blots, in which no detail can be descried. It is clear that this forest lies far from the haunts of man, for all the palm stems still retain the jagged stems of withered fronds. This gives them an untidy and forbidding aspect ; for these grey mid-ribs stick out at an angle of forty degrees from the main trunk. The faded leaf filaments have long since disappeared from the extremities of the dead fronds which themselves are so dry and so lightly attached to the stem that a few blows from a stout pole would knock them off and the palm trunk would be left bare and smooth. This is the condition of almost all palms near a native village in Africa because the natives climb them for the fruit, or more often for the sap which they tap at the summit and make into a fermented drink. Therefore whenever in tropical Africa you find palms in a forest retaining their old fronds from the ground upwards you may know that indigenous man is nowhere near. Each palm is surmounted by a graceful crown of fan-shaped leaves in an almost symmetrical oval mass, radiating from the summit as from a centre. The fruit which is clustered thickly on racemes is—seen by daylight—a bright chestnut brown and the size of a Jaffa orange. This brown husk covering an ivory nut is faintly sweet to the taste and is adored by elephants. It is on that account that I have brought you here to see with the eye of the spirit a herd of these survivors of past geological epochs. Somehow or other, it seems more fitting that we should see the wild elephant by moonlight at the present day. He is like a ghost revisiting the glimpses of ' the moon—this huge grey bulk, wrinkled even in babyhood, with his monstrous nose, his monstrous ears and his extravagant incisor teeth. There! I have hypnotised you, and having suggested the idea of “elephants” you declare that you really begin to see huge forms assuming definite outline and chiaro-scuro from out of the shadows of the palms. Now you hear the noise they make—an occasional reverberating rattle through the proboscis as they examine objects on the ground half seriously, half playfully ; and the swishing they make as they pass through the herbage ; or the rustle of branches which are being plucked to be eaten. But they are chiefly bent on the ginger- bread nuts of the palms and to attain this, where they hang out of reach, they will pause occasionally to butt the palm trees with their flattened foreheads. 30 BRITISH CENTRAL ABRICA The dried stems and the dead fronds crash down before this jarring blow. If the fruit does not fall and the tree is not tilted over at an angle [its crown within reach of the animal’s trunk], then the great beast will either strive to drag it down with his proboscis or to kneel and uproot it with his tusks. The elephants pause every now and then in their feasting, the mothers to suckle the little ones from the two great paps between the fore-legs, a huge bull to caress a young female amorously with his twiming trunk, or the childless cows to make semblance of fighting, and the half-grown young to chase each other with shrill trumpetings. But the moon is dropping over to the west. You did not think the moon- light could be exceeded in brightness. Yet in the advent of day it is only after all a betterment of night. Before the first pale pink light of early dawn the moonlight seems an unreality. In a few minutes the moon is no more luminous than a round of dirty paper and with the yellow radiance of day the elephants cease their gambollings and feasting, form into line, and swing into one of those long marches which will carry them over sixty miles of forest, plain and mountain to the next halting place in their seeming-purposeful journey. There has been a war. The black man trained and taught by the Arab has been fighting the black man officered and directed by the European and, not unnaturally, has got the worst of it. But the fight has been a stiff one. We have had to take that walled town in the red plain, behind which are gleams of water and stretches of green swamp interspersed with clumps of raphia palms. There has been the preliminary bombardment, the straw huts within the red walls have gone up in orange flame and mighty columns of smoke [transparent black and opaque yellow according to the material burning] into the heavens above and are now falling in a gentle rain of black wisps. Here and there a barrel of gunpowder has exploded, or the bursting of a shell has elicited a terrible cry from an otherwise stolid, silent enemy. Then there has been the first charge up to the clay walls and the inevitable casualties from the enemy’s fusillade directed through the loop-holes. A white officer has fallen forward on his face, revolver in hand, biting the dust literally. He is not dead, he announces cheerfully, “Only my arm smashed, I think”; but a Sikh who is attempting to arrange for his transport to the doctor out of the range of the enemy's fire, is shot through the heart, and with the last dying instinct swerves his fall to avoid falling on the officer’s shattered arm. The bulk of the small force of white men, Sikhs, and negro soldiers in khaki uniforms and black fezzes, has either scaled the clay rampart or has shattered a gateway and burst into the strong- hold, and the officer can now swoon away comfortably without much risk of dying, as the doctor can be seen in the distance hurrying up his little band of native hospital assistants and a couple of hammocks for the transport of wounded men. Pera Eee ry _ omit ool a spn oe aan MAP SHOWING OROGRAPHIOAL FEATURES IN BRITISH OENTRAL AFRICA & ADJOINING COUNTRIES 34 Semalembue~ (Miludumuta a DulumMt | Woialae 12 “ 3,000 to 6,000 __,, 600 to 3,000 - Sea Level to 600 ,, Fresh Water Lak Salt Water } a8 28 The Rdinburgh Geographical Institute Longitude East 3% from Greenwich aS | amrola yaa < x ssh English Miles 0 10 20 go 40 50 100 150 200 18 40 14 | Compiled from data supplied by Sir H. H. Johnston , K.C.B. J. G Bartholomew, Pry oCAlL” GEOGRAPHY 47 fact that in a little more than a year a lake which has existed beyond the memory of man has suddenly been resolved into a sandy marsh and a broad river channel. I think I have enumerated all the known permanent lakes of the country, though I should not be surprised if travellers who read this book came forward and said, “ You have forgotten such and such a lake in the Chambezi Valley, or the small lakelet between Chilwa and Mlanje, or the great sheet of open water on the Upper Tuchila, or such and such a lake in the Luangwa Basin.’ None of these sheets of water, however, as far as is yet known, have any permanent existence. They are only the creation of the rainy season floods. Seen at that time, of course, their existence is recorded; in the dry season they would be found either not to exist at all or to be confined to a patch of marsh. There were lakes at one time, undoubtedly, near the junction of the Ruo and the Shire (the Elephant Marsh) and at the junction of the Shire and Zambezi (Morambala Marsh); but in the course of time the alluvium of the rivers, together, even, THE LIKUBULA GORGE, MLANJE with a slight upheaval of the ground, or more probably still the deeper cutting of the river-channel have turned these former lakes into marshes or vast extents of dry alluvial soil. In like manner Nyasa was evidently united not many centuries ago with Lake Malombe; and it may be, also, that Lake Chilwa was joined with Lake Chiuta and was then the head waters of the great Lujenda- Ruvuma river. Much of the decrease in volume of the great lakes must be attributed to a slow and slight process of upheaval which has caused their waters to more rapidly drain away ; but the disappearance of these shallow lakes along the courses of the rivers is chiefly due to the rivers having in course of time cut their channels deeper, so that the lakes which formerly represented their overflow have their bottoms now removed even above flood limit. The geology of British Central Africa would appear to be relatively simple. The commonest formation, perhaps, is a mixture of metamorphic rocks, grauwacke, clay-slates, gneiss and schists. This prevails over much of the country lying between the west of Lake Nyasa and the Luapula River, on the Nyasa-Tanganyika plateau, in parts of the Shire Highlands, and north of the Zambezi. The valleys of the great and sluggish rivers, however, (the Shire, 48 BRITISH. CENTRAL -ARRICA the Chambezi, the Luangwa) contain an upper stratum of alluvial deposit where the valleys are broad and the rocks do not strike through. The principal mountain ranges are mostly granite; and granite with its upper layers often rotten and even turned into red ferruginous clay constitutes the formation of much of the Shire Highlands. There is an outcrop of sandstone on the north- west and north-east coasts of Lake Nyasa (Mount Waller and the hills of Amelia Bay are examples); a little way back from the lake shore at the north end (in German territory); to the west of the River Shire near the Portuguese frontier ; at the south end of Tanganyika; and all round about Lake Mweru and in the countries adjoining the River Luapula. Volcanic lavas and tuffs are present on parts of the upper plateau of Mlanje and at the north end of Lake ON LAKE NYASA Nyasa. There is a good deal of quartz in the mountains to the west of Lake Nyasa, especially to the south-west, and in parts of the Shire Highlands (such as Mlanje). The low flat hills in the Upper Shire district are composed of marble which yields a very good building lime. Much the same lime is also obtained from places on the west coast of Lake Nyasa, where there must be likewise a kind of limestone amongst the low hills near the lake shore. The surface of much of the low-lying country on the banks of the Upper Shire is little else than a deposit of the shells of molluscs mixed with black vegetable earth. This black “cotton” soil, which is usually extremely rich for cultivation, and is so much valued in India, is found plentifully in many stream valleys and depressions, especially in the Nyasaland provinces, and is classed by me as alluvium. On the east coast of Lake Nyasa, a few miles inland from Msumbo and Chisanga (Stations of the Universities Mission), a soap stone has been found by PHysiCAaL GEOGRAPHY 49 Commander Cullen, R.N.R.,! who had noticed that the natives made use of this stone in building the mission church at Chisanga. This soap stone, according to Commander Cullen, is the same as that found in parts of Europe and used as a lubricant packing by engineers. When prepared for this purpose it is worth £8 a ton. It is quite easily worked, can be cut with a knife, and is not much—if at all—affected by weather. In the sandstone formation of the West Shire district and round the northern half of Lake Nyasa, coal is found. On the surface it is a little shaley, but there THE LICHENYA RIVER, MLANJE is evidence that good combustible coal lies underneath. In the Marimba and Central Angoniland districts, also in the mountains of the West Nyasa coast region, and in parts of the Shire Highlands, a gold-bearing quartz exists.” Alluvial gold is reported to exist on the Northern Angoni plateau, in the West Nyasa district, and at the head-waters of the River Bua (Central Angoniland), just within the Protectorate. In the valleys of the rivers flowing south to the _ Zambezi (in Mpezeni’s country) gold really does exist, and was worked at Misale by the half-caste Portuguese in the last, and in part of the present century. Although there are many reports that payable gold has been found in 1 Senior Naval Officer in the service of the B.C. A. Administration. 2 Between Nkata Bay and Sisya. The reef here is said to have slate walls. 50° BRITISH. CENTRAL APRICA the rock, which only needs the requisite machinery to crush out, at anything from 10 dwts. to I oz. per ton, no conclusive evidence has yet been offered to support these statements by specimens which can be submitted to analysis. In 1889, however, long before Europeans turned their eyes in this direction, the old Jumbe of Kotakota told me that the quartz in his country contained gold, and THE SHIRE HIGHLANDS soon afterwards he entered into an agreement with the African Lakes Company that this gold should be worked. The Lakes Company turned over their agreement to the British South Africa Company, on whose account prospectors have entered the Marimba district. Specimens of something very like cinnabar were once submitted to Mr. Sharpe and myself for examination. They came from the country to the west of the Lower Shire. We attempted an analysis but although there seemed to be traces of mercury in the pan we could not authoritatively state that the EirvolG Al GEOGRAPHY Bi substance was cinnabar. Since that time no further specimens have reached us. It is beyond dispute that the country of Katanga is rich in copper and also possesses gold. The copper of Katanga, however, is widely spread in a currency of ingots over South Central Africa. Malachite also comes from that region. There is no reason why this copper should not also be found in the same formation to the east of the river Luapula and Lake Mweru. Specimens of lead and of graphite have been shown to me, but I was unable to identify the districts from which they were obtained, though I understood that some specimens of graphite came from the hills to the west of the Lower Shire. Iron ore is nearly everywhere abundant. Excellent hematite iron comes from the Upper Shire district. We have actually used some of this iron—have had it smelted and worked by native blacksmiths—for making the parts of a gun and such other relatively simple things which were within the scope of native blacksmiths or Sikh artizans. Garnets are found in the stream valleys of Mlanje. On the same mountain beautiful quartz crystals are met with and persons seeing them for the first time are often deluded into the belief that they have obtained diamonds. No trace of the blue diamond clay has ever yet been met with in Central Africa. There are no deposits of rock-salt, so far as I am aware, but salt is obtained from the brackish marsh called by the name of Mweru which lies between the great lake Mweru and Tanganyika ; also from the marsh country in the West Shire district, and from the brackish Lake Chilwa.? But salt is also obtained both good and abundant—though rather dark in colour—from the ashes of grasses and other plants growing on the mountain plateaux and in the vicinity of rivers and lakes. On the whole, in one way or another British Central Africa may be considered to be well supplied with salt manufactured by the natives, which is a favourite article of commerce and is even a good deal used by Europeans, who in their cooking, if not on their tables, at any rate in their kitchens, use it in preference to the imported article. ? Commander Cullen supplies the following note :—‘‘In the upper waters of the Lintipe river (Central Angoniland) the formation is the same as that of the Vaal River Valley: and as garnets and crystals are found in it, if it were properly worked it seems probable it might prove diamondiferous.” 2 Mr. Sharpe describes as follows the way in which the natives extract salt from the Mweru swamp :—‘‘ The natives dwelling round the great Mweru salt swamp take the salt-impregnated earth round the lake shore and put it into funnels made of closely woven grass rope. They then pour in water and stir up the salt earth. The water takes up the salt and filtering through the grass funnel, carries the salt in solution into pots placed below. The water is then evaporated and cakes of pure salt are left.” APPENDIX THE COAL OF NYASALAND Report by the Director of the Scientific Department of the Imperial Institute on two samples of coal from Nyasaland, received through Mr. P. L. Sclater, F.R.S., from Mr, Alfred Sharpe, Acting Commissioner and Consul-General for British Central Africa :— SPECIMEN A.—Coal from North Nyasaland—Fixed carbon, 57°63 7; ash, 15°57 7%; volatile matter, 26°80 %; sulphur, o'10 %; coke, 73°20 %; calorific value, 5520 units. This is a non-caking coal of very fine quality, which is likely to be useful for most purposes for which coal is employed. The percentage of ash is rather high, but the coal is remarkably free from sulphur. SPECIMEN B.—Szfpposed Coal from the Songwe River—Fixed carbon, 47°46 %; ash, 8°4 7% ; volatile matter, 44°54; sulphur, 0°52; coke, 55°5; calorific value, 6050 units. This also is a non-caking coal of good quality, yielding very little ash, and containing but little sulphur... This. coal would be serviceable either for heating or for metallurgical purposes. (Signed) Wynpuam R. DunsTAN. Cine AMR une baa HISTORY RITISH CENTRAL AFRICA only comes within the domain of written B history quite recently, Tanganyika and much of Nyasa scarcely forty years ago. It is just barely possible that the south end of Lake Nyasa, and it is certain that a portion of the river Shire which flows from it, were known to the Portuguese explorers at the latter end of the sixteenth century. The unwritten history, the history which can be deduced from researches into language, examinations of racial type, native traditions, and archaeological researches, extends back into the usual remoteness connected with the movements of the human genus, though in no part of the world is it so indefinite or is there such scanty and slight material on which to construct theories. ! It may be that something of this kind occurred. Until further facts come to light, the tendency of such little knowledge as we at present possess of the past history of the evolution of man is to lead us to believe that he was developed from the pithecoid type somewhere in Asia, not improbably in India.!. It would seem, at any rate, as if the earliest known race of man, inhabiting what is now British Central Africa, was akin to the Bushman- Hottentot type of negro. Rounded stones, with a hole through the centre, similar to those which are used by the Bushmen in the south for weighting their digging sticks, have been found at the south end of Lake Tanganyika, and specimens of them were brought home thence by me and given to the British Museum. I have heard that other examples of these “ Bushman” stones have been found nearer to Lake Nyasa, but I have not seen the alleged specimens. In one instance I alighted on a curious tradition, which would make it appear 1 At any moment this theory, which at present holds the field, may be upset by unlooked-for discoveries in African palzeontology. Quite recently a discovery of the most extraordinary importance and interest has been made by Dr. Forsyth Major in Madagascar, an island which was united to Africa in the early part of the tertiary epoch. This consists of the fossil remains of a monkey-like form called Nesopithecus, a form intermediate between the Cebidze and the Old World monkeys. The Cebidve are the American monkeys, a type which is connected with the Lemuroids by transitional forms. Mr. R. Lydekker deduces from these discoveries that the primal stock of the monkeys had its home in Africa; that from the African continent branched off the Cebidze, which found their way to America, and there lingered, while they became extinguished in the Old World; and the Simiidee, or Old World monkeys, which in turn gave rise to the anthropoid apes and man. So far as we yet know evidence preponderates in favour of the anthropoid apes having arisen in Southern Asia, whence they penetrated Africa; and the famous discovery by Dr. Dubois, in Java, of Péthecanthropus erectus, a form almost intermediate between the anthropoid ape and the human species, would lead us to imagine that man likewise originated in the Asiatic continent, which served as a distributing centre. The lowest known forms of man living at the present time, or only recently extinct, are found in Tasmania, Australia, South Eastern Asia, and Central and Southern Africa. At the same time further discoveries may equally well show that the development of the anthropoid ape into man took place in Africa, a guess once hazarded by Darwin. §2 HISTORY 53 that until recently the Bushman type was lingering on the upper plateau of the Mlanje mountain mass at the south-east corner of the Protectorate. The Majfianja natives of that-district assert positively that there used to live on the upper part of the mountain, a dwarf race of light yellow complexion with hair growing in scattered tufts, and with that large development of the buttocks characteristic of the Bushman-Hottentot type. They gave these people a specific name, “ Arungu,” but I confess that this term inspired me with some distrust of the value of their tradition, as it was identical with the word for “ gods.”? The resemblance, however, may have been accidental. They declare this people to have been found on the top of Mlanje until quite recently. Similar rumours were collected by a Portuguese officer stationed at Mlanje, and by him communicated to me, quite independently of my own re- searches, and the same idea occurred to him as to myself, that the traditions referred to a Bushman type. I have at different times exhaustively searched, or caused to be searched, the upper parts of the Mlanje mountain ; but although traces of human residence in some of the caves have been reported, no definite proof of the existence of any people differing from the modern type was discovered. That is to say, traces of human habitation in those caves and hollows consisted chiefly of fragments of pottery, which is certainly not a characteristic sign of Bushman habitation. It is probably known to my readers, however, that real undisputed PORTRAIT OF A YOUNG BUSHMAN Bushmen are found (I have seen them myself) in South Western Africa, in the same latitudes as the southern part of the British Protectorate under review. Bushman tribes were discovered by Serpa Pinto and other explorers as far north almost as the 14th parallel south latitude, in the countries near the Upper Kunene river. Here and there, in Nyasaland, one meets with faces and forms amongst the natives which suggest a cropping out of the Hottentot type, as though the present Bantu races had, on their first invasion of these countries, absorbed their Bushman predecessors by intermarriage. This Bushman- Hottentot mixture, however, is not nearly so apparent as it is in the Basuto and certain Kafir tribes of South Africa. Indeed when South African negroes come to Nyasaland for work and one is able to contrast them with the local natives, one is struck at once by the resemblance they offer to Hottentots, in their paler skins, more prominent cheek bones, deep set eyes and flattened nose. It is evident that the Basuto-Bechuana people especially have much mingled with the Hottentots in times past. It would seem from the researches of Mr. Theodore Bent in the ruined cities of 1 Murungu=a god. A-rungu=gods. Yet this is not the ordinary plural which is Mi-lungu or Mi-rungu, though it is A-rungu in the more northern dialects. 54 BRITISH CENTRAL, APRSCS Mashonaland that those earlier settlers from Southern Arabia, who mined for gold some two thousand years ago and less, in South Central Africa, were only acquainted with native inhabitants of a Bushman-Hottentot type, to judge by the drawings, engravings and models they have left, intended to depict natives engaged in the chase. The evidence which I have quoted at length in my book on Kilimanjaro, and in the prefatory chapters to the Lzfe of Livingstone, derived from a com- parative study of the Bantu languages, leads me to believe that the invasion of the southern half of Africa by big black negro races, nowadays so familiar to us, was relatively recent in the history of man—perhaps not much more than 2000 years ago. Some cause, such as the dense forests of the Congo Basin, must have checked their descent of the continent from the Sudan. They may also have been held back for a long time-—especially on the eastern side of the continent where the forests could never have been in recent times a serious obstacle—by the sturdy opposition of the prior inhabitants of Bushman- Hottentot type. Be that as it may, I do not think the black negroes, the present inhabitants of South Central Africa, have been in possession of those countries from time immemorial, and in their own traditions they vaguely recall a descent from the North. It is possible that when the Sabzans and Arabs traded with South-east Africa, during the first half of the Christian era, one or another of them may have penetrated into the countries round Lake Nyasa. With this proviso, however, as to the possibility of such a journey having taken place, it must be stated that as far as we know, the Arabs did little more in regard to British Central Africa than to settle on the coast of the Indian Ocean, or to establish a trading depot at Sena, on the Lower Zambezi. It would seem to me as though 3000 years ago the distribution of races in Africa had stood thus. The southern half of the continent, from a little north of the Equator to the Cape of Good Hope, was very sparsely populated with a low Negroid type, of which the Bushmen and Hottentots, and possibly the pigmy tribes of the Congo forests,” are the descendants. The North and North-east of Africa, from Morocco to Egypt and Egypt to Somaliland, was peopled mainly by the Hamites, a race akin in origin and language to the Semitic type, which latter was certainly a higher development from a parent Hamitic stock. The Hamites themselves, however, obviously originated as a superior ascending variety of the Negritic species, from which basal stock had been derived in still earlier times the Bushman-Hottentot group, whose languages—especially that of the Hottentot—are thought by some authorities to show remote affinities in structure to the Hamitic tongues. Westward of the Hamites, and an earlier divergence from the original Negritic group, were the true black negroes, more closely allied in origin perhaps to the Bushmen- Hottentots than to the more divergent Hamites. But 3000 years ago, I am inclined to believe that the true negroes were bounded in their distribution by the northern limits of the Sahara Desert, the Atlantic Ocean, the great forests of the Congo Basin, and either the Nile Valley or the Abyssinian Highlands on the East. Here and there these different sections of the Negritic stock mingled, producing races superior to the pure negro, like the Nubians, the Somalis, and the Fulbe, which dwell more or less on the borderland between the negro and the Hamite. When the true negroes invaded the southern half 1 The Kilimanjaro Expedition, pp. 478-483. * These latter much mixed I am sure with the black negroes. HISTORY 55 of the African continent, some 2000 to 3000 years ago, they carried with them such culture, domestic animals, and cultivated plants as they had derived indirectly from Egypt. I should think that in Nyasaland and along the shores of Lake Tanganyika, the history of negro culture has been retrograde, until the coming of the Arab and the European. In one or two places on the shores of Lake Nyasa old pottery has been dug up at a considerable depth below the surface, with trees of great girth and age growing over these remains. The pottery has been found imbedded in the sand of an ancient shore-line of Nyasa, now covered by about 5 feet of humus, in which. baobab trees are strongly rooted. From. the approximate age of the trees, and the time it should have taken to accumulate this vegetable soil, some of this pottery must have been 500 or 600 years old. One large pot thus found has been deposited by me in the British Museum. These few remains exhibit evidences of greater skill and taste than is shown by the pottery at the present time in the same districts. Researches founded on the study of languages, of religions, of traditions, and on the records of Portuguese explorers in West Africa, would also seem to show that in Western Africa many of the negro States were in a far higher state of culture 500 years ago than they are now. The line of the migration of the Bantu negroes in British Central Africa will be treated of in Chapter XI., which describes their languages. It will be sufficient to say, as regards history, that we may presume them to have entered into possession of these countries—driving out or absorbing the antecedent Bushman race—about 1000 years ago. With the doubtful exception of the visit of an occasional Arab slave dealer, they had no contact with the outer world until the arrival of the Portuguese on the East Coast of Africa, which is the first definite landmark in the history of this portion of the continent. Vasco da Gama, after rounding the Cape of Good Hope in 1495, stopped at the Arab settlements of Sofala (near the modern Beira) and Mocgambique, and thence passed onwards to Malindi (near Mombasa) and India. On his return from India he further explored the South-east Coast of Africa, and (probably from information given by Arab pilots) entered with his little fleet the Quelimane River,' which was connected intermittently with the main Zambezi, and which, until the other day, was thought to be the only certain means of reaching the Zambezi above its delta. This river he called the “Rio dos Bons Signaes,” or the “ River of Good Indications.” The name “Quelimane,” which he applied to a small village 12 miles inland from the mouth of the river (the origin of the now important town of Quelimane, the capital of Portuguese Zambezia) is stated by the Portuguese to have the following etymology. This village belonged to a certain individual who acted as interpreter between the Portuguese and the natives. He appears to have been an Arab, or a half Arab. In those days Portuguese navigators seem to have been acquainted with Arabic, a language which probably still lingered in the southern part of Portugal, where Moorish kingdoms existed till the twelfth century. The name which the Portuguese applied to this individual was “ Quelimane” (pronounced Keliman). Now in the corrupt Coast Arabic “Kaliman” is the word for “ Interpreter.’”” Consequently the name of the modern town Quelimane® is simply derived 1 On Jan. 22nd, 1498. 2 In Swahili this becomes Mkalimani. % T have taken the opportunity to give this bit of etymology as there has long been a misapprehension as to the correct spelling of Quelimane, which was thought wrongly to be derived from “ Kilimani,” which means in Swahili “on the hill.” But there is no hill within eighty miles of Quelimane. The true native name of this place is ‘‘ Chuabo.” 56 BRITISH CENTRAL AFRIC&S from the term “Interpreter,” applied to this guide and go-between of Vasco da Gama. For some five centuries before the Portuguese arrived the Arabs of Southern and Eastern Arabia had formed or re-formed settlements along the East Coast of Africa from Somaliland to Sofala.'. In the direction of British Central Africa they were chiefly established at Mocambique, Ngoji (Angoche), and Sena on the Zambezi. They apparently found no direct entrance into the Zambezi River which could be easily navigated by their daus, and preferred to use the Quelimane River. This in exceptional rainy seasons at the present day becomes connected with the Zambezi river, by overflow creeks; and possibly some centuries ago was the most northern branch of the delta. The Arabs would seem, therefore, to have gone up this river past Quelimane, and then to have travelled either by water when the river was full, or overland at other seasons, to Sena, a settlement not far from the junction of the Zambezi and the Shire. From Sena again they had overland communication to their settlements at Sofala, near the modern town of Beira.? At first the Portuguese were received by the Arabs in a friendly fashion, and several of the Portuguese were taken up by Arab guides from Quelimane to Sena. Before many years? were over the Portuguese had dispossessed the Arabs, and driven them away. From Sofala to Mocambique they replaced them so completely, with the exception of their settlements at Angoche,* that they disappeared entirely and never returned, even after the temporary decay of the Portuguese power which enabled the Arabs to reconquer the East Coast of Africa as far south as Kilwa. At first Sena, on the Lower Zambezi, was the headquarters of the Portu- guese Administration, and from hence various expeditions, during the sixteenth century, were sent southwards to discover the gold mines of Manika—expedi- tions which were mostly unsuccessful, owing to the unhealthiness of the climate and the presence of the Tsetse fly. Another obstacle in the way of Portuguese enterprise was the kingdom of Monomotapa,® a powerful empire of Bantu negroes, probably related in stock to the Zulus. The influence of Monomotapa must have ranged from the vicinity of the south end of Lake Nyasa to the Limpopo River. Simultaneously with the first Portuguese “ Conquistadores ” 1 T say ‘‘re-formed”’ because we are now practically certain that some races of Southern Arabia had founded their ancient settlements—possibly in connection with the Phoenicians—in South-eastern Africa, not only on the East Coast but far in the interior of Mashonaland. These settlements were, it is supposed, destroyed by the advent of the Bantu tribes from the North, who were far more formidable enemies to tackle than the feeble Bushmen and Hottentots. It is possible that the natives of Arabia did not entirely give up their African trade, though they had to quit the interior and confine their settlements to the coast. But whether or no there was a gap in Arab enterprise in the early part of the Christian era, there was a great revival in the tenth century, and in the eleventh century a strong Arab kingdom was formed at Kilwa (midway between Zanzibar and Mocambique) which exercised a kind of suzerainty over the other settlements or Sultanates. Mosques were built at this period, the remains of which may be seen at the present day. * Beira was the name given to this place not many years ago by the Portuguese, when it was first founded, after Col. Paiva d’Andrada’s explorations of the Pungwe river. ‘‘ Beira” is the name of one of the principal provinces of Portugal, and the eldest son of the heir to the throne of Portugal always bears the title of ‘‘ Principe da Beira.” Beira is pronounced ‘‘ Bay-ra” in Portuguese. Consequently, with their usual perversity, the English people have decided to call it ‘‘ By-ra,” for it is one of our national peculiarities to devote all our best energy to a mispronunciation of foreign words. 3 T believe the Arabs remained in possession of Sena until near the end of the sixteenth century. + Which really remain unconquered to this day. 5 This name was derived from the native appellation of the Makaranga chief, and is apparently a corruption of ‘‘Mwene Mutapa”=‘*Lord Hippopotamus”; or ‘*‘ Mwana-Mutapa”—‘‘*Child of the Hippopotamus.” The hippopotamus was much reverenced by the tribes of the Central Zambezi, and is so, to some extent, still. HISTORY 57 and mining adventurers came lion-hearted Jesuit Missionaries, resolved on repeating in the Zambezi countries the successes they had obtained in Christianising the kingdom of the Congo. Several of these men were martyred by the orders of the Emperor of Monomotapa; but eventually they established themselves at Zumbo, on the Central Zambezi, at the con- fluence of the great Luangwa River. The modern capital of Tete,! which is the most important town on the Zambezi, was not founded until the middle of the seventeenth century, and was merely a station of Jesuit Missionaries originally, though afterwards taken over by the Portuguese Government. At first, however, the principal towns were Zumbo and Sena. GOVERNOR’S HOUS E, TETE The Portuguese soon penetrated northward of the Zambezi, in the direction of the Maravi country and the watershed of Lake Nyasa. Here they dis- covered, or re-discovered, from hints given by Arabs or natives, the gold deposits of Misale,” and for some century or so afterwards these gold mines were extensively worked. Curiously enough, however, the chief mineral dis- coveries of the Portuguese at this time lay in the direction of silver, though at the present time we have no knowledge of any existing silver mines in the Zambezi countries. In 1616 a Portuguese, named Jaspar Bocarro, offered to carry samples of Zambezi silver overland from the Central Zambezi to Malindi, a Portuguese settlement to the north of Mombasa, without going near Mocambique. The 1 Tete is the name fora reed, The plural ‘‘ Matete” means ‘‘a reed-bed.” It is possible that this was the etymology of the name, as the shore is very reedy about that part of the Zambezi. But the native name of Tete is ‘‘ Nyungwi.” 2 Nowadays Misale lies within the British sphere of influence, and a British company is attempting to work its gold. 58 BRITISH CENTRALE -APRIGCS TL Ls 1 B=. So pre a Aa ot — Hie Brees: E : ZZ PEI Zp irs pervge i fitin yh THE ISLAND OF MOCAMBIQUE, SEEN FROM THE MAINLAND motive of this offer lay in the fact that considerable friction existed between the Central Government of Mocambique, which was under the Viceroys of India, and the Portuguese adventurers on the Zambezi, who strongly objected to the grinding monopolies which the Mocambique Government sought to establish. Jaspar Bocarro apparently journeyed from where the town of Tete now stands to the Upper Shire River, crossing that stream near its junction with the Ruo; and then, passing through the Anguru country in the vicinity of Lake Chilwa, he entered-the Lujenda Valley, and so travelled on to the Ruvuma River, and thence to the coast at Mikindani. * From Mikindani he continued his journey to Malindi by sea. So far as reliable records go, this was the first European to enter what is now styled “ British Central Africa.” The Jesuit priests from Zumbo had journeyed westward into the country of the Batonga or Batoka,! and northwards up the Luangwa River. They 1 Sir John Kirk, when travelling with Livingstone, in 1859, discovered groves of fruit trees in the Batoka country which may have been introduced by the Jesuits. i i ee ea “ey “- oi jee * yg? a pingiet . HISTORY 50 transmitted rumours of a great lake (Nyasa), which they styled Lake ‘“‘ Maravi.” This really meant “a lake in the country of the Maravi,’ Maravi being an old name (now nearly extinct) of the Nyanja tribes in the south-west of Nyasa- land. But in the middle of the eighteenth century the Jesuits were expelled from all the Portuguese Dominions by order of the Marquez de Pombal; and after their departure from the Central Zambezi there was a temporary diminu- tion of Portuguese activity. At the very end of the last century, however, the interest of the Portuguese Government in its East African possessions was revived by the British Government having taken possession of the Cape of Good Hope at the outbreak of the war with France. In the year following the seizure of Cape Town’ by an English force, Dr. Francisco José Maria de Lacerda e Almeida, a distinguished scientific man who was a native of Brazil, and a Doctor of Mathematics at Coimbra University (Portugal), addressed a very remarkable letter to the Portuguese Government, setting forth that the results of the English invasion of Capetown would be the creation of a great British South African Empire, which would, if not counteracted in time, spread north- wards across the Zambezi, and separate the Portuguese Dominions of Angola and Mocambique. This, I think, at the period and with the limited geographical knowledge then possessed by even a Portuguese University, was one of the most remarkable instances of political foresight which can be quoted. The Portuguese Government was so struck with Dr. Lacerda’s arguments that it appointed him Governor of the Rios de Sena,” and authorised him to conduct an expedition “a contra-costa”—across Africa from the Zambezi countries to Angola, establishing Portuguese Suzerainty along his route. It should be stated at this juncture that not nearly so many white Portuguese had assisted in opening up the East African territories, as had settled in Angola, and on the West Coast of Africa. In those days the Portuguese East African possessions were generally knit up with their Viceroyalty of India, and the pure-blooded Portuguese in the Zambezi countries were few in number compared to the “Canarins” or Canarese. These people were half-caste natives of Goa, with more or less Indian blood in their veins, and constituted the principal element in the Portuguese Zambezi settlements. They were very enterprising men, though they relapsed into semi-savagery, and as slave-traders and robbers had a record almost more evil than that of the Arabs. Nevertheless the European blood in their veins sharply distinguished these Goanese from the unlettered black people, and of some of their journeys they kept more or less intelligent records. Two Goanese of the name of Pereira, father and son, had gone gold hunting to the north of the Zambezi, and had eventually pushed on with their armed slaves till they reached the Kazembe’s country, near Lake Mweru. The reports which they gave of the Kazembe (a lieutenant or satrap of the Muata Yanvo of Lunda) decided Dr. Lacerda to proceed thither on his way across to Angola. His expedition numbered about 75 white Portuguese, and the two Pereiras accompanied it as guides. Dr. Lacerda, however, only succeeded in reaching Kazembe’s capital, near the south end of Lake Mweru, and eventually died there on the 18th October, 1798. After his death the expedition became so disorganised that instead of continuing the journey to Angola it returned to Tete. At the beginning of the present century two half-caste Portuguese, named Baptista and Amaro José, crossed from the Kwango River in the interior 1 Which took place in 1795. 2 The old name for the Zambezi. 60 BRITISH CENTRAL. AFRICA of Angola to the Kazembe’s country, near Lake Mweru, and thence to Tete on the Zambezi. In 1831 Major Monteiro and Captain Gamitto conducted a mission from Tete to the Kazembe, and some years subsequently Silva Porto, — a Portuguese colonist, of Bihe, in the interior of Benguela, is also said to have rambled over much of South Central Africa; further, a certain Candido de Costa Cardoso claimed that he sighted the south-west corner of Lake Nyasa in 1846; but none of these explorers, with the exception of Dr. Lacerda, possessed any scientific qualifications, and their journeys led to little or no geographical information or political ascendancy. Indeed, what is remarkable about Dr. Lacerda, to say nothing of the other explorers, was the extraordinary bad luck which prevented him from sighting any important river or lake. He reached a point within a few miles of the large Lake Mweru, and yet either never saw it, or thought it not worth mention. He heard vague rumours of Tanganyika and of Nyasa, but did not direct his steps in either direction ; and, stranger still, he missed the recognition of the remarkable Luapula, which we now know to be the Upper Congo, though he must have actually been within sight of it. The real history of British Central Africa begins with the advent of Livingstone. This intrepid missionary had gradually pushed his explorations northwards from the Cape of Good Hope until he reached the Central Zambezi in 1851, accompanied by the celebrated sportsman Mr. Oswell. Impressed with the importance of his discovery Livingstone returned to Cape Town, and with the generous assistance of Mr. Oswell, was enabled not only to send his wife and children out of harm’s way, but to equip himself for the tremendous exploration of South Central Africa, which he had determined to accomplish. Having perfected himself in astronomical observations, under the tuition of the Astronomer- Royal of Cape Town, Livingstone started for the North and once more reached the Zambezi, near its confluence with the Chobe. Thence he travelled up the Zambezi to its source, and across to Angola and again back from Angola and down the Zambezi to its mouth, or more correctly speaking to Quelimane, on the Indian Ocean. This epoch-making journey had important and far-reaching results. Livingstone was sent back by the British Government at the head of a well-equipped expedition, and was accompanied amongst others by Dr., now Sir John, Kirk, who, besides being medical officer, was the naturalist of the expedition. After a journey to Tete and visits to the “Quebrabago” Rapids for the purpose of determining the navigability of the Zambezi above Tete, Livingstone determined to search for and find the reported great lake out of which the Shire! flowed to join the Zambezi. At this date the Portuguese knew scarcely anything of the Shire beyond its confluence with the Zambezi. They seem to have lost all remembrance of the one or two earlier journeys in that direction of Portuguese explorers. Consequently, before Livingstone and his party had ascended the Shire very far they found themselves in a country absolutely new to the white man. After several futile attempts to reach Lake Nyasa, in the course of one of which they discovered the brackish Lake Chilwa, which lies to the south-east of the greater lake, and Lake Malombe, which ' The name of the ‘‘Shire” river was formerly written by the Portuguese **Cherim”’ (pronounce, ‘“‘Shéring”’); this was later still written ‘‘Chire,” which if the ‘‘ch” be pronounced as in ‘‘ church” fairly represents the native pronunciation. But the Portuguese pronounce ‘‘ch” like ‘*sh,” therefore Livingstone heard them speak of this river as the ‘ Shire,” and thus transcribed it in English. The correct native pronunciation is ‘‘Chiri ” (( heeree), and the word means in Chinyanja ‘‘a steep bank ’— Nyanja ya chiri, ‘‘ the river with the steep banks.” HISTORY 61 is a widening of the Upper Shire, Livingstone and his companions finally reached the southern extremity of Nyasa, near the site of the modern settle- ment of Fort Johnston, on the 16th of September, 1859, the first white men, as far as we know with any certainty, who stood on the shores of Lake Nyasa. As the district in which Livingstone discovered this third greatest of the lakes of Africa was under Yao domination, he recorded its name as pronounced by the Yao, z.c. Nyasa; but its most common appellation is Nyanja. This is ‘the same word as Nyanza farther north, and Nyasa, Nyanja, and Nyanza are derived from an archaic and widespread Bantu root -anza, which means “a broad water.”! Livingstone and his party extended their explorations of the western coast of Lake Nyasa as far north as about 11°30 south latitude, a little more than THE POINT ON THE SOUTH SHORE OF LAKE NYASA WHENCE THE LAKE WAS FIRST SEEN BY DR. LIVINGSTONE AND SIR JOIHIN KIRK IN 1859 half-way up the lake. Subsequently Livingstone travelled inland west of Lake Nyasa till he reached the watershed of the great Luangwa River, and it was upon hearing at that point of a not far distant lake that he resolved, on his succeeding journey, to proceed along the same route, and thus discovered the south end of Lake Tanganyika, Lake Mweru, the Luapula River, and Lake Bangweolo. Whilst Livingstone and Kirk were exploring Lake Nyasa and the Shire Highlands, however, they were joined by a Christian Mission under Bishop Mackenzie, which had been sent out from the two great English Universities, and which exists to this day under the name of the “ Universities Mission to Central Africa.” These missionaries settled in the eastern part of the Shire Highlands, just as the invasions of the Muhammadan Yao slave raiders were beginning. 1 This root is found even among the more corrupt Bantu tongues of Western Equatorial Africa. For instance, the broad estuary of the Cameroons River is called in the Duala tongue ‘* Muanza.”’ and the same name is given to the Lower Congo. 62 BRITISH CENTRAYT. APRIGE Following on the Portuguese expeditions at the end of the 18th century to Kazembe’s country, a great intercourse had sprung up between the Babisa tribe, which inhabits the district to the west of the great Luangwa River and ~ the Zanzibar coast. The Babisa had acquired guns from the Portuguese, and, armed in this way, had asserted themselves effectually against tribes still armed with the bow and spear. They became an enterprising people and resolved to trade directly with the Coast. Not liking the Portuguese, however, they preferred to journey farther north, and trafficked with the Arabs of Zanzibar. - About this time the Zanzibar Sultanate was increasing gradually in power. It was an appanage of the Imamate of Maskat (Oman), and already the Maskat Arabs (who had replaced the Portuguese in all the trading settlements of Eastern Africa, between the Ruvuma River and Somaliland) had begun to push their slave and ivory trading enterprises into the interior of Eastern Africa, especially in the direction of Tanganyika. Attracted, however, by the accounts which the Babisa caravans gave of the fertile country in which they dwelt, and struck with the docility of the slaves brought down by the Babisa from the Nyasa countries, certain Arabs accompanied the Babisa caravans back to their place of origin, which was, as I have said, the countries lying to the west of the great Luangwa River. The route they followed was from ports like Kilwa on the East Coast to Lake Nyasa. thence across Nyasa and south- west or due west to the Lubisa country. In the course of these journeys the Arabs became acquainted with that race of fine physical development and stubborn character, the Yao, who inhabit much of the high country lying between the Indian Ocean and Lake Nyasa. In the Yao they found willing confederates in the slave trade, and a people much inclined to Muhammadanism. Eventually the poor Babisa were attacked and enslaved by neighbouring tribes who had been armed by the Arabs, and their importance passed awav. The Arabs and Yao between them began to dominate Nyasaland. Now the inhabitants of the bulk of Nyasaland proper, with the exception of its north-west portion, belonged in the main to what may be called the A-nyanja stock. These people who are referred to by Portuguese of an earlier date as the Amaravi, and who are of the same race as the indigenous inhabitants of the Zambezi Valley between Tete and Sena and of the whole course of the Shire, are of a singularly docile and peaceful disposition, devoted to agriculture and timid in warfare—a race consequently that is always falling under the domination of more powerful and energetic tribes. Before what may be called the Yao invasion of the Shire Highlands the Nyanja people had been oppressed by Zulu invaders coming from the south-west. The convulsions which had been taking place in Zululand in the early part of this century had resulted in a most curious recoil of the Zulu race on Central Africa. It is probably not many centuries since the forerunners of the Zulus swept down from Central Africa, from the region of the great lakes, across the Zambezi, into Southern Africa, driving themselves like a wedge through the earlier Bantu invaders, the ancestors of the Basuto-Bechuana, and further displacing and destroying the feebler Hottentot people. Now, however, with the Indian Ocean in front of them, and internal commotions and increase of population com- pelling them to find more space for settlement, sections of them began to turn their faces back towards the Zambezi. The foundations of the Matabele! kingdom were laid, and band after band of Zulus crossed the Zambezi about 1 Or Amandabele, as it ought to be written but that we English love inaccuracy in pronunciation and spelling for its own sake. Matabele is the Se-chuana corruption of the Zulu ‘‘ Amandabele.” i i ll ls ee ee ee Ag ORs . FOUNDING: THE PROTECTORATE ns through Nyasaland ; but Captain Stairs, who had been very ill with black-water fever, died at Chinde before he could embark on the ocean steamer. 1893 dawned on us with somewhat brighter prospects. I had spent a very pleasant Christmas at Blantyre, and had been cheered by the safe return of Mr. Sharpe from an extensive journey through the Tanganyika, Mweru, and Upper Luapula districts, where he had added to our geographical discoveries, and had settled many outstanding difficulties with Arabs and native chiefs. M. Lionel Décle arrived at the beginning of 1893 on a scientific mission for the French Government. In the course of this mission he had already travelled over South Africa from the Cape to Nyasaland. He eventually continued his journey CAPTAIN SCLATER’S ROAD TO KATUNGA IN PROCESS OF MAKING through British Central Africa to the south end of Tanganyika, and thence to Uganda and the east coast of Africa. In January, 1893, came Mr. J. F. Cunningham to be my private secretary.! In the month of February, 1893, however, we found ourselves face to face with a serious outbreak on the Upper Shire, an outbreak of slave traders that had long been threatened. The upper portion of the Shire was ruled over by a chief named Liwonde, who was a relation of Kawinga’s.? Liwonde had 1 In 1894 he became Secretary to the British Central Africa Administration. Mr. Cunningham, besides organising our printing establishment and Gazette, was—among many other accomplishments—a great road-maker. He constructed the road between Blantyre and Zomba as a “‘ holiday task” while [ was absent in South Africa in the spring of 1893. To praise one’s private secretary is scarcely less difficult than to praise oneself; such commendation must be private. Still I should like to acknowledge here how much I owe to this gentleman’s unflagging industry and zealous co-operation during the period between 1893 and the present day. : ? Kawinga, to whom constant allusion will be made in the pages of this History, was a powerful Yao chief of the Machinga clan, who had settled on Chikala Mountain, near the north-west end of Lake Chiloa, at the end of the fifties or beginning of the sixties. He is referred to by Livingstone in his Last Journeys as Kabinga. The chief Liwonde was his relation, and had, with some Yao followers, acquired the sovereignty of the Upper Shire about thirty years ago. 116 BRITISH CENTRAL AFRICA received me well in 1889, and had made a treaty with me; but he was incurably addicted to the slave trade. An old Arab, named Abu Bakr (a white Arab of Maskat), lived with Liwonde, and acted as go-between for the supply of slaves to the Swahili caravans. At the beginning of 1893 one of these caravans had kidnapped and carried off some boys at Zomba who worked in Mr. Buchanan’s plantations. Captain C. E. Johnson, who happened to be staying at Zomba, hurried off in pursuit of the caravan, accompanied by Mr. George Hoare (formerly a N.C;@saimiine Royal Engineers) and a few Makua police. They came up with the caravan in Liwonde’s country, and succeeded in re- leasing the Zomba boys, to- gether with a large number of other slaves, but the slave traders managed to elude them. On the return of the rescue party to the banks of the Shire, in Liwonde’s country, they were attacked by Li- wonde’s men. One of the Makua police was killed, and others were badly wounded, while Mr. Hoare had to swim for his life down the river till he was out of the range of the enemy’s guns. Fortunately the rescued slaves were not recaptured. The whole river now was up in arms wherever there were Yao. A boat of the African Lakes Company was coming down in charge of some Atonga. It was seized by Liwonde’s men, and one of the Atonga had his throat cut in Liwonde’s presence. Others, though wounded, managed to escape. Finally, the Domzra unfortunately chose this moment to make one of her rare periodical trips down the Upper Shire to Matope, and stuck on a sandbank opposite to one of Liwonde’s towns. When we heard the news at Zomba, we scraped together all the forces we could collect, but these only consisted of Makua police and Atonga labourers. With these men Captain Johnson and I started for the Upper Shire. At Mpimbi we were joined by Messrs. Sharpe, Gilbert Stevenson, and Crawshay. We fought our way up the river to the place where the Vomzra was stranded. Here we were over three days in a very disagreeable position. Our camp was com- manded by the higher ground in the vicinity, from which the natives continually fired into us. They also kept up a steady fire on the Domzra, and Mr. Steven- son, in going on board that steamer, was gravely, almost mortally, wounded. ! @ Fo, RY MR, J. F. CUNNINGHAM ‘He was shot through the body just in front of the kidneys, but made a marvellous recovery, and subsequently did excellent service in the Protectorate in the Mlanje district. When out shooting game in September, 1896, his gun went off accidentally and killed him, EOONDING “-PHE PROTECTORATE 17, We were getting anxious as to our position, owing to the possible exhaustion of our ammunition and the fact that the enemy had reoccupied the banks of the Shire behind us, thus cutting us off from overland communication with the Shire Highlands. The boats which attempted to go up or down the Shire were fired at, and several boatmen and soldiers were wounded. Mr. Alfred Sharpe was the first to relieve the acute crisis of our position by stealing out with a few Atonga from the stockade, and lying in ambush along one of the paths which the enemy used for advancing in our direction. In this way he was able to pick off with his rifle several of Liwonde’s most noted warriors and leaders, and this considerably damped the enemy’s ardour. On the third day of our beleaguered state there arrived very welcome reinforcements in the shape of Herr von Eltz (who was in charge of Major von Wissmann’s expedition, intended to convey a steamer to Lake Nyasa), a German non-commissioned officer, a Hotchkiss gun, and about twenty Sudanese soldiers. These really relieved us from any peril, and enabled those who had been three days in this camp without sleep or a_ proper meal, to get both whilst the new arrivals kept watch. On the following day Lieut. Commander Carr, who commanded H.M.S. MWosguzto on the Zambezi, arrived with Dr. Harper and about twenty blue-jackets. We had succeeded in getting the Domzra off the sand-bank, she had gone to Matope, and returned with Mr. Sharpe and further reinforcements. We were now, therefore, able to advance up the river and capture Liwonde’s town which was done without much serious fighting; the brunt of the struggle falling to Herr von Eltz and his Sudanese, and Mr. F. J. Whicker.2 Liwonde’s town was on an island and our forces advanced on both banks of the river. We managed to wade across one branch of the Shire to the island which the enemy had already abandoned on our near approach. Lieut. Carr and the blue-jackets assisted us in building two forts and then returned to the lower river, one or two blue-jackets remaining behind for a few weeks to assist us in garrisoning the forts. Commander Robertson and myself passed on up the river to the limits of Liwonde’s country in the Domzra, but had no fighting of any serious character. Liwonde fled and we did not succeed in capturing him for several years, during which he occasionally gave us trouble.* The pacification of the country was ably effected by Mr. F. J. Whicker, under whose superintendence the Upper Shire has become one of the most prosperous districts in the Protectorate, with an abundant and contented population. In March, 1893, Captain Sclater was obliged to return to England on account of his health and the expiration of the time for which he was seconded. In April I started for South Africa to confer with Mr. Rhodes and the secretary of the South Africa Company, in regard to the contributions to be furnished by that Company towards the adminstration of British Central Africa. On my way down the river I met Lieut. (now Lieut.-Colonel) Edwards, who had arrived from India with a large reinforcement of Sikhs. For two years past the armed forces in the Protectorate had consisted of one English officer, sixty to seventy Indian Sepoys, and about fifty Zanzibaris and Makua (the latter being natives of Mocambique). The Indian soldiers, again, included over forty Mazbi Sikhs and about twenty Indian Muhammadan cavalrymen. The term for which these men were allowed to volunteer from the Indian Army ' An important settlement was afterwards founded here and called ‘' Fort Sharpe.” * Subsequently collector for the Upper Shire district. 3 He is however now exiled to Port Herald on the Lower Shire. 118 BRITISH CENTRAL AFRICA would expire in the summer of 1893, and I had therefore made arrangements with the Indian Government for their relief, but had asked on this occasion, at the suggestion of Captain Johnson, that when the second Indian contingent was sent out, all the new Indian soldiers should be Jat Sikhs and not Mazbis.! Lieut. Edwards brought with him a hundred Sikhs on this occasion. A few months after their arrival the time expired of the Mazbi Sikhs, and the few Indian cavalrymen that remained were sent back to India. Later on in the year another hundred Sikhs arrived, under the command of Lieut. (now Captain) W. H. Manning, Y thus bringing up the full strength of our Indian contingent Be to 200 men, which maximum it has not since exceeded. In regard to black troops we had first of all tried natives of Zanzibar, but these men had not proved very satisfactory. They were nearly as expensive as the Sikhs, they were not all of them very brave or reliable in warfare, and they were difficult to procure, owing to the restrictions which had been placed at that time on the ex- patriation of the natives of Zanzibar ; restrictions rendered absolutely necessary owing to the drain on the population of that island caused by the engagement of Zanzibaris for the many expedi- tions engaged in African exploration. I had been much struck with the good qualities of the Makua a of Mogambique. The escort I had taken with ~ me in my journeys of 1889-go0 was composed of Makua, recruited at Mocambique. I had also obtained Makua for the Thomson-Grant expedi- tion to Bangweolo, and these men after Mr. Thomson's return had passed into our police force. We were also beginning to employ as police the Atonga natives of West Nyasa. I therefore decided to pay off and send back our few remaining Zanzibaris, and to replace them by Makua and natives of Nyasaland. Meantime, however, at a suggestion from the late Mr. Portal, LIBUT. on a) a Shir Hib Bm nt Mire Shira Pena” 2900 fF ~~. ove the sea _ eat eNeRing p ROR T@raramuka: ” Hee ? |, Mttope /Matumbir z 4 (EONS i \ Matus IA Saale { Kihulurada, pot . | i EXPLANATION OF COLOURING eel British Protectorate (faa British South Africa Company’s Territories — Boundary of Districts under Collectors and Magistrates 18 Capitals of Districts are underlined J NU; die jany Dex Tuleomas a Aah ey Milrold ane ~ POG AMBIQUE y okambo Bay 28 Longitude East 34: froru Greenwich. 10 20 30 40 50 [he Edinburgh Geographical Institute Compiled from data supplied by Sir H. H. Johnston , K.C.B. — J. G. Bartholomew. ne — : OO ee Ie sf = CHAPTER’: of ELE Siw AN, -CRADE be of interest. Slavery has probably existed among mankind from time immemorial, and no doubt one race of negroes enslaved another ages before the ancient Egyptians and Phoenicians introduced the slave trade, by which is meant the deliberate expatriation of negroes to countries beyond the sea, or to parts of Africa not inhabited by the negro race. But the horrors of the slave trade are attributable, firstly to Europeans, and secondly to Arabs. The English, Spanish, Portuguese and French had commenced trafficking in negro slaves from the West Coast of Africa when that coast became opened up to geographical knowledge in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries. In the sixteenth century organised attempts were made to replace the disappearing aborigines of the West Indies by negro slaves; then came the introduction of negroes into the southern States of North America. At first the trade was confined to the West Coast but the Portuguese commenced to export slaves from East Africa in the seventeenth century, and thenceforward a mighty slave trade sprang up in the valley of the Zambezi which is not yet extinct, although several measures for its abolition have been taken by the Portuguese Govern- ment during the present century. Maskat Arabs who warred with the Portuguese in East Africa and gradually supplanted them in all the settlements between Aden and the Ruvuma River, organised a brisk traffic to supply the markets of the East with black concubines, black eunuchs, and strong-armed willing workers. Slaves thus became indispensable to Arabia, Egypt, Mesopotamia and Persia, and Abyssinian slaves were even introduced in numbers to the West Coast of India where they were turned into fighting men or into regular castes of seamen! The Moors of Northern Africa, however, had almost shown the way in the matter of the slave trade to the nations of Western Europe by developing an active intercourse with the regions of the Nigerian Sudan, so that all Northern Africa was abundantly supplied with a caste of negro workers while negro blood mingled freely in many of the Arab and Berber tribes. The worst horrors of the slave trade were probably the miseries endured by the closely-packed negroes on slave ships, where from want of ventilation and of such treatment as would nowadays be accorded as a duty to cargoes of beasts, they endured untold miseries and developed strange maladies. Moreover, to | N regard to the slave trade, a few words of explanation and description may 1 Curiously enough some of these slaves revolted and formed communities of their own in Western India, now recognised by the Imperial Governnient as small tributary States under negroid rulers of Abyssinian descent. 155 156 BRITISH CENTRAL AFRICA supply the slave market in America incessant civil war was raging amongst the coast tribes of West Africa. But the Arabs of East-Central Africa have run us hard in the matter of wickedness. I do not need to recapitulate the horrors of slave raids and the miseries of slave caravans: they are graphically described by Livingstone.! The Arabs of Maskat from the Zanzibar coast and the half-breed Portuguese from the Zambezi joined together to devastate what is now called British Central Africa. The slaves from the Senga and Bisa countries in the Luangwa valley and from much of Southern Nyasaland found their way to Tete on the Zambezi, and thence to Quelimane and Mogambique, where they were picked up by American ships as late as the beginning of the “sixties.” Some of these ships eluded the British gunboats ; others were captured and taken to Sierra Leone. Here, strange to say, many inhabitants of Nyasaland and of the countries as far west as the Lualaba, were landed in the “ forties” and “fifties” of this century, and were ex- amined as to their languages by Mr. Koelle, a German missionary of great learning, who, in his Polyglotta Africana, produced one of the finest books ever written on the subject of African languages. Long before the existence of Lakes Nyasa and Tanganyika were known to Europe, Mr. Koelle, of Sierra Leone, was writing down the vocabularies and languages spoken on the shores of those lakes, gathered from slaves that had come from Mocambique and Quelimane. In between Mocambique and Quelimane A SWAHILI SLAVE-TRADER the Arabs still retain to this day a hold on certain little-known ports, such as Angoche and Moma. From these points slaves from Eastern Nyasaland were shipped to Madagascar, which until its recent conquest by the French was another profitable market for slaves. In addition, the Matabele Zulus, who had surged back into South-Central Africa from Zululand at the beginning of this century raided across the Zambezi for slaves, and slave-raiding was also carried on by the Basuto who, under the name of the Makololo, conquered the Barutse kingdom. From the middle of the 18th to near the end of the 19th century British Central Africa has been devastated by the slave trade. Whole tribes have been cut up and scattered ; vast districts depopulated ; arts and crafts and useful customs have been forgotten in the flight before the slave-raiders. The whole country was kept in a state of incessant turmoil by the attempt to supply the slave markets of the Zambezi, of Madagascar, of the United States, of Zanzibar, Arabia, Persia, and Turkey. A great blow was dealt to this trade by the conclusion of the American Civil War and the abolition of slavery. This and the Emancipation of Slaves first in the West Indies and subsequently in Brazil, brought the West African 1 T have attempted also to give descriptions based on a good deal of personal observation as well as on much reading in my book, 7he A{/7story of a Slave. THE SLAVE TRADE 167 slave trade to a close and largely diminished the source of profit in the South-East African slave trade; for American ships came no longer to the Mogambique coast to take away cargoes of slaves and to evade the British cruisers. Then the Portuguese awoke to a sense of duty and a series of edicts made slavery very difficult and the slave trade practically impossible in all the settled portions of Portuguese East Africa. But the Eastern market always ARAB AND SWAHILI SLAVE-TRADERS, CAPTURED BY THE B.C.A, FORCES remained open and the Arabs carried their slaving enterprise farther and farther into the heart of British Central Africa. They had enlisted on their side powerful tribes like the Wa-yao, the Wa-nyamwezi, the Awemba, and the Angoni Zulus. Dr. Livingstone, however, appeared on the scene and his appeals to the British public gradually drew our attention to the slave trade in Eastern Central Africa until, as the direct result of Livingstone’s work, slavery and the slave trade are now at an end within the British Central Africa Protectorate, and are fast disappearing in the regions beyond under the South Africa 158 BRITISH “CENTRAL AFRICA Company ; and the abolition of slavery at Zanzibar will shortly be decreed as a final triumph to Livingstone’s appeal. The attitude of our Administration in British Central Africa towards the status of slavery has been this: we have never recognised it, but where slavery existed without its being forced on our notice through an attempt to carry on the slave ¢rade, or through unkindness to the slaves, we have not actually interfered to abolish the status. But if ever a slave has run away from a district not administered by us to a more settled portion of the Protectorate, we have always refused to surrender him. If the slave was a female and it could be shown that she was a wife or concubine of the man who owned her or that he had inflicted no unkindness she was usually given back upon a promise of immunity from punishment. When a district from various causes has come under our our immediate administration we have always informed the slaves that they were not slaves and that they were free to go and do what they pleased as long as they did not break the law. But it has rarely happened that the slaves of a chief who were well treated have chosen to quit their masters; therefore, being free to do as they liked, if they chose to remain and work as slaves nobody interfered to prevent their doing so. The slave ¢vade—still more slave-raiding—has always been punished, and it may be safely stated that such a thing does not now exist in the Protectorate, though it is still carried on in such districts as are not wholly under the control of the British South Africa Company ; while Mpezeni alone among the uncon- quered Angoni chiefs raids the countries round his settle- ments and apparently adds his slaves to the population of his kingdom, or sells them to the Arabs on the Luangwa. The hardships of the slave trade were these :—Homes were broken up, a large number of men, women and little children were collected together and dispatched on a many- hundred-mile journey overland to the coast, on which they often had to carry heavy burdens Their slave-sticks? were (aes no light weight, and they were ill-fed and provided with no Slave-raider employed by Arabs Clothing to shield them from the cold or wet in mountainous regions. If they lagged by the way or lay down, worn out with exhaustion, their throats were cut or they were shot. Often before reaching the coast the Arabs would stop at some settlement and roughly castrate a number of the young boys so that they might be sold as eunuchs. Some died straightway from the operation, others lingered a little longer and A “*RUGA-RUGA”’ 1 The slave-stick in most of the languages of East-Central Africa is called gori, goli, or li-goli. It consists usually of a young tree lopped off near the ground and again cut where it divides into two branches. The ends of these two branches are left sufficiently long to enclose the neck of the slave. Their ends are then united by an iron pin which is driven through a hole drilled in the wood and hammered over on either side. The thick end of the gori-stick is usually fastened to a tree at night time when the caravan is resting, though sometimes it is merely left on the ground as the weight of the stick would make escape nearly impossible, especially as stubborn slaves have their hands tied behind the back. When the slaves are engaged in any work the end of the gori-stick is sufficiently supported to enable them to bear its weight and yet perform the task allotted to them. Except in the case of children, on whom no stick is placed, THE SLAVE TRADE 159 eventually perished from hernia induced by this operation. Those who survived usually had an extremely comfortable and prosperous after-life in the harem of some Turk, Arab or Persian. The mortality amongst the children was terrible: the Arab slave-drivers do not appear to have been actuated by motives of commercial expediency in endeavouring to land as many live and healthy slaves on the coast as possible. They seem on the contrary to have been inspired by something more like devilish cruelty at times in the reckless way in which they would expose their slaves to suffering and exhaustion, and then barbarously kill them.! as they are sure to follow their mothers or friends, or of comely young women who are the temporary concubines of the slave-drivers, and who, with the facile nature of the negro, rapidly become attached to their brutal husbands—all slaves are usually loaded with this terrible weight. Nevertheless escape does sometimes take place. Most slaves must of necessity have their hands free when on the march, especially if they are to support the weight of the gori-stick. They then often manage to secrete a knife or razor, or some sharp substance with which during the night they will attempt to saw through one of the branches of the stick round the neck. They are then able to twist the iron pin round and release their necks from the burden. To escape in a strange country is impossible, and the attempt is invariably followed by a return to slavery in some shape or form. Asa rule when the journey to the coast is half done the slaves are sufficiently to be depended upon for docility to be able to travel without the slave- stick. ! Much of my information about slavery was derived from an interesting man, several years in my service, who was originally a native of the east coast of Lake Nyasa, and had been sent as a slave to the coast with an Arab caravan when he was about twelve years old. The slaves whom he accompanied were captured by a British cruiser. This boy was taken to Zanzibar and set free, was educated at the Universities Mission, and became the servant of a succession of Admirals on the East Coast Station, ending up with Admiral Hewett ; after whose death he passed into my service, and was, until his recent death, the principal servant at the Consulate at Mogambique. CHAPTER VE THE, EUROPEAN SE EREERS S mentioned in a preceding chapter, there were 345 Europeans at the end of the year 1896 settled in the eastern part of British Central Africa, of whom about thirty were non-British subjects. These Europeans are divisible into four classes—officials, missionaries, planters and traders. The missionaries and their work will be dealt with in Chapter VII. The officials have been referred to in the Appendix to a preceding chapter; there remain therefore the planters and traders to be now considered. The planters come from very much the same class which furnishes the coffee planters of Ceylon, India, Fiji, and Tropical America. They are most of them decent young fellows of good physique and good education, who, possessed of a small capital, desire to embark on a life which shall combine a profitable investment for their money, with no great need for elaborate technical education, and an open-air life in a wild country with plenty of good sport, and few or none of the restraints of civilisation. One of our planters can look back on something like twenty-two years’ experience of British Central Africa, another on eighteen years’ experience, a third ten, a fourth nine; but most of the men did not arrive in the country before 1890 or 1891. The planters now probably number nearly 100. The chief thing grown is coffee; but tea has been started on two estates (on one of which it has been growing for about six years), and on others cinchona and ceara rubber, cotton and tobacco are cultivated. Some planters go in a great deal for cattle keeping and _ breeding.! The coffee plant was originally introduced into British Central Africa by Mr. Jonathan Duncan, a horticulturist in the service of the Church of Scotland Mission, but the idea owes its inception to the late Mr. John Buchanan, C.M.G., who was at the time also in the service of the Church of Scotland Mission,? ' During the past two or three years the use of cattle by the European settlers in the Protectorate has greatly increased. When I first came to British Central Africa in 1889 no one except at two or three mission stations and at the African Lakes Company’s establishments at Mandala and at Karonga kept any cattle. A few native chiefs had herds of 20 or 30 beasts hidden away in the mountains, afraid to avow their existence in case they should be raided by the Angoni or the Yao, At the north end of the lake the Wankonde had enormous herds, as was the case with the Angoni in the west of the Protectorate, but no one came forward to trade in cattle and distribute oxen among the Europeans in the Shire Highlands. © All this is now changed. Many Europeans have been up into the Angoni country, and certain Adminis- tration officials have interested themselves in the introduction of cattle into the Shire province. The price of milch cows now stands at a little more than two or three pounds a head, while oxen may fetch as little as 15/. each. The chief inducement in keeping cattle is to use the manure for the coffee plantations, but of course the supply of milk and butter is a valuable adjunct to health. * Which he joined as a lay member specially in charge of horticultural work in 1876. 160 SS ee ee Se eee tHe EUROPEAN SETTLERS 161 and who on his arrival at Blantyre had arranged with the curator of the Botanical Gardens at Edinburgh for the sending out of coffee plants. Three small coffee plants of the Mocha variety (Coffea Arabica) which were leading a sickly existence at Edinburgh were entrusted to Mr. Duncan to transport to Blantyre. Two of these plants died on the voyage, the third survived and was planted in the Blantyre Mission gardens, where until quite recently it was still living. Two years after it was thus replanted it bore a crop of about 1000 beans which were all planted, and from which 400 seedlings were eventually reared. In 1883, 14} cwts. of coffee was gathered from these young trees. Mr. Henry Henderson of the Blantyre Mission brought out a small supply of Liberian coffee seed in 1887; but this variety has never met with much success in British Central Africa, as it will not grow well on the hills, though it answers well in the plains. Moreover, it does not fetch nearly such good prices as the small Mocha bean. Later on varieties of Jamaica coffee were introduced by the Moir Brothers whilst managers of the African THE CONSULATE, BLANTYRE Lakes Company at Mandala. The “blue mountain” variety of Jamaica has succeeded very well in the Shire Highlands, and to a less extent the “orange” coffee in the same locality has prospered. Still the bulk of the coffee trees now existing in this Protectorate owe their origin to the one surviving coffee plant introduced from the Edinburgh Botanical Gardens. It may therefore be said without much exaggeration that it is Scotch coffee which is the staple growth of British Central Africa. Owing to the troubles which broke out in the Church of Scotland Mission (briefly referred to in a previous chapter), much of the Society’s work in connection with planting was suspended, though not before it had introduced coffee into the Zomba district through Mr. Buchanan; but when Mr. Buchanan left the Mission in 1880 he determined to establish himself independently as a coffee planter. For years he and his brothers (who eventually joined him) struggled on with a very limited capital, having almost insuperable difficulties to contend with in the shape of recalcitrant chiefs, ill-health, and invasions of the Angoni, which drove away all their native labour. They remained however without any rivals in the field until Mr. Eugene Sharrer, a British subject of German origin, arrived at Blantyre in 1889, bought land and started coffee planting. The Lakes Company also commenced II 162 BRITISH CENTRALE, APRICA planting about the same time, but the shipments of the Buchanan Brothers had already established the fact that coffee of the very best quality could be grown in British Central Africa. Moreover, the labour difficulty was being gradually solved. When the natives around the infant settlhements of Blantyre and Zomba were convinced that the white men would pay fairly for their labour, they began to come in increasing numbers to work in the plantations, and strangest of all, the warlike Angoni came down with their slaves, not to raid and ravage as before, but to obtain employment for three or four months in the year in the coffee plantations. The total amount of coffee ex- ported from this Protectorate in 1896 was 320 tons. This coffee was sold in London at prices ranging between ggs. and I15s. per cwt., much of it fetching prices over 100 shillings. The lowest price ever fetched by British Central Africa coffee was 86s. per cwt. The coffee undoubtedly varies according to the amount of rainfall, the fertility of the soil, and the manner in which it is plucked, pulped, dried and packed. Manure and shade! seem to be absolutely necessary to complete success. Artificial manures are now being imported, and as already stated cattle are kept in increasing quantities so that their dung may be used for the coffee plantations, and guano has recently been discovered on the islands of Lake Nyasa, which will prove very useful. It is also necessary A COFFEE TREE IN BEARING that the plantations shall be scru- pulously weeded. When the soil is fertile, and all these conditions of manure, shade and weeding have been fulfilled, a yield of as much as 17 cwt. per acre has been taken. On the other hand, in much neglected gardens no more than 2 or 60 lbs. per acre has been realised. The average yield in the plantations is 3} cwt. per acre, though it is the opinion of experts. that this yield would be greatly increased if more care was shown in the cultivation of the coffee. In some years of poor rainfall or where the first rains have fallen early, and have brought coffee prematurely into blossom leaving the newly-formed seed to suffer from the subsequent drought, the berry grows diseased or the husk is found to be empty with no kernels at all inside. Some people are of opinion that this empty husk or diseased berry is caused by the presence of a small beetle. Others assert that it is the result of a plague of green 1 To attain this end, I believe, in new plantations for every two coffee shrubs inserted in the ground one African fig tree is planted. These splendid wild fig trees grow to a great height and give absolute shade, They also serve to protect the coffee trees from being wind blown or seared by the hot air coming off the plains in the dry season. THE BUROPEAN SETTLERS 163 bugs which suck the sap of the coffee tree. All are agreed, however, that the only preventative of the defective berry is plenty of shade and manure. A system of “topping”? has now been almost universally adopted, though perhaps not to the same extent to which it is carried on in Ceylon and India, for it is difficult to train immediately a sufficient staff of natives who will handle and prune the coffee in a propér manner ; and careless topping does more harm than good. The effect of the soil of this Protectorate on the coffee shrub is apparently to bring it into bearing at three years of age or under, and to cause it in its second crop to exhaust its vitality, if it be not previously pruned. Left to itself the coffee shrub in this main or second crop would give an enormous yield from the primary shoots and as a result of this exhaustion no secondary branches would be developed from which the next year’s crop would come; consequently instead of bearing year after year for something like fourteen years the coffee shrubs would be useless when four or five years old. The coffee tree generally blossoms during the dry season in the months of September and October, especially if a few showers of rain fall, as they often do at this time of the year. The berries are usually ripe and ready for picking at the end of June. In my report to the Foreign Office on the trade of British Central Africa during 1895 and 1896 I have estimated that a planter requires a capital of about £1000 for the upkeep and bringing into bearing of 100 acres of coffee. This sum should purchase an estate of say 500 acres and provide for the cost of clearing it, obtaining coffee seedlings and planting them, and building a fairly comfortable house, and of meeting the expense of the planter’s living on a moderate scale during the three years. It would not, however, provide for the erection of a substantial brick house, nor of the pulping vats, and special machinery for pulping. With this he would have gradually to supply himself out of the profits his plantation would make after the first three years. Per- haps it may enable my readers to obtain a clear idea of the average experience of a young coffee planter ; what difficulties he has to face; what are the chances of success—what in fact any reader of my book who intends to become a coffee planter in British Central Africa would have to undergo—if I give here extracts from the imaginary letters of a typical A PLANTER'’S TEMPORARY HOUSE planter, so far as my imagination will enable me to enter into the mind of A, B, C, or D, and reveal their thoughts and the impressions which are made on them by what they see and feel. “ BALBROCHAN, AYRSHIRE, SCOTLAND. “Dear Frep,—As I have failed in my last chance for the army, the governor has decided that I am to go coffee planting somewhere in Central Africa. He has heard all about it from old Major McClear, who it appears has gone out there with his son (he ts a widower you know) and is going to supplement his pension by making money out of 1 “Topping ” means cutting about four inches off the top of the tree, so as to throw it back and cause the secondary branches to develop and come into bearing. 164 BRITISH 'CENTRAM AP RIGA coffee. You see, as I have failed finally to pass my exams for the army, I must not be too particular, as there are younger brothers and sisters to be educated and put out in the world, and my father is not over well off; besides, I hear there is capital sport, and the climate is not so bad though one gets a touch of fever every now and then. The governor can only afford # tooo to start me, and I am going to do my best not to cost him another penny before I am self-supporting. . . . I think the country is called the British Central. Africa Protectorate; it is close to Lake Nyasa, and is about 300 or 400 miles inland from the east coast. I am getting my equipment ready, and shall leave on the rst of May by the Lainburgh Castle for Durban, where I change into the ‘f Rennie” boat Zana, and so travel up the east coast to a place called Chinde which is at the mouth of the Zambezi. Here I change into the river steamer, and travel up the Zambezi and the Shire, and so on to Blantyre where I shall stay with the McClears and look about me. . . . As to equipment,! I am not taking very much as I am told that most things can be got fairly good and cheap out there, and it saves one the bother of a lot of luggage, and the risk of loading yourself with things that you don’t want. I shall simply take along with me all my old clothes and a dress-suit in case there is any ‘society.’ Of course I am taking guns—a doubled-barrelled 12-bore shot gun, and an express rifle. I have been strongly advised not to take a helmet, as it is said to be a ridiculous kind of headgear for Central Africa, where one requires something like a light Terai hat, and where it appears you should always carry a white cotton umbrella when the sun shines. The helmet is cumbersome and ugly and does not shield the body from the sun. It seems from what I can gather that a chap gets far sicker from the effect of the sun on his body than on his head, and that the best way to avoid sun fever and sunstroke is to carry an umbrella wherever one goes. I shall take a good saddle with me and riding gear, as most of the people in the Shire Highlands (the name of the coffee district) ride about on ponies. I think as I pass through Durban I shall invest in a Basuto pony (they are said to be the best for the purpose) and take him along with me up to Blantyre. I hear they are very cheap at Durban, about £8 will buy a good one, and it only comes altogether to about £25 or #26 to convey the little beast up river to a place called Katunga, and there you get on his back and ride up to Blantyre. I shall also take out my bicycle as some of the roads are fit for cycling. Nearly everything else can be got on the spot, but my mother insists on giving me a small medicine chest, so that I can dose myself with quinine and other things if there is no doctor handy. I shall also take out a small photographic camera and plenty of books. ““ And now good-bye for a bit in case I don’t see you again, but as soon as I get out there I will write and let you know what it is like.” ‘“CHIROMO, BRITISH CENTRAL AFRICA, June 12th. “DEAR FRED,—I am now in British Central Africa, and before I get any further into the country as I have a day or two to spare here I will give you an account of what my journey was like. “T managed to get my pony all right in Durban through Messrs. and ‘ who seem to be universal providers in that city. I had to give £9 for him but he is an extra good little beast. We changed into the /zduna at this place. She was very crowded and therefore not very comfortable, but the journey to Chinde only occupied five days as we ran through direct. ““Chinde, you know, is one of the mouths of the Zambezi, and the only one which has a bar that can be crossed without risk by a well-navigated steamer. The /vduna crossed the bar all right and landed us on the British Concession, a piece of land which was granted by the Portuguese Government for the use of the British Central Africa Protectorate so that goods can be transhipped here from the ocean-going steamers 1 wide Appendix II., p. 185.—H. H. J. THE EUROPEAN SETTLERS 165 into the river boats. I did not stay on the Concession, however, but on a place called the Extra Concession which has no privileges regarding exemptions from Customs dues. I put up at an hotel which is run by ———. Of course everything seems very rough to me who have never been farther away than Switzerland before, but fellows here tell me that Chinde is simply luxurious to what it was a few years ago. In 1890 it was practically unknown to Europeans, and there was not even a hut on the present sandspit, which is the site of the town—everything was covered with thick bush ; now, although the place is horribly ugly, being built almost entirely of corrugated iron, it is fairly neat and clean. Most of the houses are of one story, but ————’s hotel is not half a bad place, a sort of bungalow built of iron and wood with broad shady verandahs. The food is anything but good, however, as fresh provisions are scarce and most of the things we eat come out of tins. “Chinde is a great peninsula of sand intersected with marshy tracts, which projects into the Indian Ocean, having the sea on one side and the Chinde mouth of the Zambezi on the other. * * * * * * * * “Two days after our arrival at Chinde we started in the Lakes Company’s steamer, the James Stevenson, which conveyed us up river as far as Chiromo. After leaving Chinde we pursued a tortuous course up the Chinde River till we got into the main Zambezi. Here the country was very uninteresting. The Zambezi is extremely broad and you are never sure whether you are looking at the opposite bank or a chain of long flat islands. Islands and shore are equally covered at this season of the year by grass of tremendous height, and except an occasional fan-palm you see nothing behind the grass. Hippos are very scarce and shy now owing to the way they have been shot at. Occasionally however you see little black dots at a distance, and if you are looking through glasses you can distinguish a hippo raising his head and stretching his jaws, but they always duck when the steamer gets anywhere near. At the end of our second day we got to a place called Vicenti, a sort of Portuguese station. A little while before we got there we began to see something more interesting than the grass banks—the outline of a blue mountain called Morambala, which overlooks the Shire River. Morambala is the only hill to be seen for miles farther on beyond Vicenti. You hardly notice where you get into the River Shire, as the country seems to have become quite demoralised at the junction of the Shire with the Zambezi by the intersection of innumerable channels | aa a of water and swamps. Morambala looks | a splendid mountain, however (about 4,000 feet high), as it rises up above the fcetid Morambala marsh. Beyond Morambala the banks are dotted with innumerable tall palms which I could not help thinking very picturesque with their lofty whitish- grey stems, and their crowns of elegantly- shaped blue-green fronds. + * oie * MT. MORAMBALA, FROM THE RIVER SHIRE “The first place we stopped at in British territory was Port Herald on the west bank of the Shire, a pretty little settlement with very rich vegetation. The steamer had to stop here for a day for some reason or other so I and two of my fellow passengers went out for a shoot. The Administration official at the station lent us a guide, and we had awfully good sport, coming back with a large male waterbuck,—a beast as big as a red deer—and two reedbuck which are somewhat the size of a roe and very good eating The meat of the waterbuck is no good, so we gave it to the natives; but as I had shot the beast 1 kept the horns which are very fine though not at all like a stag’s, being quite simple without branches and 166 BRITISH “CENTRAL. AP RICA with an elegant curve and ever so many rings. Jones, one of my fellow passengers, saw a lion whilst we were out shooting on this occasion, but was in too much of a funk to fire, so the beast got away. He says his cartridge jammed! but I don’t believe him. ““Chiromo is an awfully pretty little place. The roads are broad and bordered with fine shady trees planted close together. Some of the buildings are quite smart, though of course at home we should think them small. ““Up to the present the climate has been lovely and I have not had a touch of fever. It is quite cool at nights and one seldom gets mosquitos, but I am told that in the rainy season they are an awful pest. In the middle of the day it is about as hot as a summer’s day at home, but not too hot to walk about with or without an umbrella. This is the beginning of the cool season of the year.” “ BLANTYRE, June 20th. , 3 “JT got up to Blantyre on June 18th. The small steamer of the Lakes Company took us on from Chiromo to Katunga, up the Shire. You cannot go beyond Katunga by water, or at least much beyond, because of the rapids and falls. The Steamer Company arranged about the transport of my baggage and I simply saddled my pony, which was in capital condition, and rode him gently up to Blantyre. The distance is about 25 miles. I had sent a telegram from Katunga to say I was coming and old McClear rode out and met me half-way. His plantation is not in Blantyre but about seven miles out. However, we slept that night at an hotel in Blantyre and went on to bis plantation the next morning. The country is awfully pretty—very thickly wooded in parts and with hills and mountains of bold outline. Water seems to be most abundant ; every few miles you cross a running stream or rivulet. As far as climate goes. you might think yourself back in England, anywhere near Blantyre, at this season of the year. All the houses are built of brick and every room, nearly, has a fireplace. “Tt is very jolly at night to sit round a huge log fire and enjoy it, with the tempera- ture outside almost down to freezing point. In fact some mornings there is a white rime on the ground when you first go out. * * * * * * * + “T have almost settled on buying a piece of land adjoining McClear’s plantation. It belongs to the Crown and I shall have to take these steps to buy it :—First of all I have to get one of the surveyors here to go over the land with me and make a rough plan of the boundaries so that we can get at some idea of the area and furnish the Commissioner’s Office with sufficient information to enable the officials to decide where the land is and whether it can be sold. With these particulars I send a fee of £2, which includes the surveyor’s fees and the cost of inserting an announcement in the Gazette. If the Commissioner decides to sell the land he will put a notice to that effect in the Gazette and an upset-price will be fixed (probably 5s. an acre) and notice will be given that the estate will be sold by public auction a fortnight after the announcement appears. ‘The sale will take place at the Court House in Blantyre. I shall have to go there and if nobody bids against me I shall get the estate knocked down to me at the upset-price. + * % * * * * * “ BLANTYRE, August Ist. “T have bought my land—nobody bid against me—but I have had my first attack of fever. Perhaps it is just as well to get it over, as they say you have it all the worse if it is bottled up in your system. I think mine must have come on from a chill. I had played in a tremendous cricket match got up at Blantyre, ‘“‘The Administration v. Planters,” and after getting very hot went and sat about in the cool breeze, which is about the most fatal thing you can do. The next day after breakfast I began to feel a bit cheap—very shivery and a horrid pain in the back, and rather a sensation as though PL BUROPEAN SETITLERS 167 I was going to have a tremendous cold. Iam staying at Major McClear's and he told me at once I was in for a dose of fever, made me go to bed, gave me a purge and put hot water bottles at my feet. Then I began to get awfully hot—my temperature went up to 102 degrees—and after that came a sweat which soaked all the bed clothes, and then I felt a bit better and wanted to get up but they advised me to stay in bed. I seemed all right the next morning except that my ears were singing, but towards evening again I felt beastly bad. I went to bed and vomited ever so many times, and thought I was going to die. A doctor came to see me and found my temperature 103 degrees; he brought it down with a dose of phenacitine. Eventually I got to sleep and woke up much better, but I was down again the third day though not so bad. After that I felt SHARRER’S STORE AT KATUNGA very weak and looked very yellow for a day or two, and then my appetite came back and now I am just as fit as it is possible to be—a tremendous appetite and think the country is the finest in the world though I can tell you whilst I had the fever on me I made an awful ass of myself, telling them all I was going to die and sending all sorts of messages to my people! I hear everybody does that when he has fever and no one seems inclined to make fun of you on that account. “Well: I have bought my land—soo acres at 5s. makes 4125. I shall have to pay the Stamp Duties and eventually the cost of a survey. All this will come to about another £20—say in all £150. I have arranged to live with old McClear (it is awfully kind of him to propose it) and learn the business whilst my own estate is being got ready. He will give me a room and my board, and during all the time that I can spare off my own land I am to help him and his son on their estate ; this of course will teach me something about coffee planting. ree “Blantyre is not half a bad place but it seems to me a good deal of hard drinking 168 BRITISH CENTRAL APRICS goes on there. Smedley, the Missionary doctor, says a white man ought not to touch alcohol in Africa except when it is given to him as a medicine. That is all very well but I can’t see that a little lager beer does much harm, or a glass of good claret ; and as the drinking water at Blantyre is not first rate and one can’t always be swilling tea the entire teetotal plan does not suit me; at the same time I am willing to admit that a deal too much whisky is consumed here. Somehow or other most of the chaps who come out here to plant seem to get into the way of it. Perhaps I shall do the same. I must say on these very cold nights before one turns in, whilst you are sitting round the pleasant log fire a glass of hot whisky and water is very tempting and surely can’t be harmful ? The Doctor says it is, under all circumstances, and that all spirits have a most prejudicial effect on the liver in Central Africa. * * * * * * * * ““PazuLu, September roth. “This is the name of old Major McClear’s plantation. I believe it means ‘up above.’ It is on a hill-side looking down on the River Lunzu and the bush is being burnt in all directions. I am awfully fit and have been very busy clearing my land of bush. This is how I have had to set about it. I found that a man named Carter had just come down from the Atonga country on the west coast of Lake Nyasa with a huge gang of Atonga labourers. Some of the chaps do this every now and then when they have got time on their hands — go up the west coast of Nyasa (where they get very good sport) and come back with a gang of men for work. After supplying their own plantations they pass on the others to planters and traders who want men. All these men are registered at the Government office, either in the country they come from or at some place like Blantyre. You have to engage them before a Government official and everything is written down fair and square—the time you engage them for, the amount you are going to pay them, and so on. Each man gets a copy of the contract and you have to pay a shilling for the stamp on it, that is to say a shilling for each labourer. You may not engage them for more than a year even if you want to, and if they want to stay. Ordinarily one takes them for six months and you have to give a deposit or a bond to provide for the cost of their return passage money to their homes. If a man runs away before the time of his contract is completed without any breach of the agreement on your part he can be punished and you can proceed against him for damages up to a certain amount if he refuse to complete the term for which he is engaged ; of course you have a further hold over them because you do not pay them the full sum for their services till their time is up. When you pay them off you have to do so before the Government officer who sees that what you give them is that which is owing to them. “JT have got a gang of fifty men and a ‘capitao.’ They are all Atonga—a cheery lot though rather unruly at times and ready to knock off work if you do not keep a sharp look out. The head man of any gang is called a ‘capitao’ which I believe is a Portuguese word—the same as ‘captain.’ My ‘capitao’ when he is at work wears precious little clothing, but on Sundays he puts on a long coat with brass: buttons and a red fez which he has bought at a store or which was part of his last year’s payment. His name is Moses. Of course he has got an Atonga name of his own but the missionaries in this country will give them all Biblical names (which I think is awfully bad taste, but the Atonga do not share my views and Mosesi, as he calls himself, admires his Bible name tremendously). Iam to pay these men three shillings a month each and the ‘capitao’ five shillings. Besides this they get their food allowance or ‘posho’ as it is sometimes called. This I generally give to them in white calico (which costs me 2}d.a yard). I give my men four yards a week each with six yards for the ‘capitao.’ This with occasional extras brings up the cost of their food to 2d. a day with a little extra for the head man. Some of the other traders here only give out food allowance at the rate of three yards a week per man, but food has become very dear, relatively Pie yeUROPEAN SETTLERS 169 speaking, round Blantyre; and if our labourers do not receive sufficient food cloth or money in lieu thereof they are bound to steal from the native gardens and so get into trouble. I wonder some of the planters and traders here do not see that it is far and away the best policy to treat one’s labourers generously in the way of food. There is nothing which will attach the negro more to your service than to give him plenty to eat. A man who feeds him well may beat him as much as he pleases in moderation and the man will still remain attached and return to the same plantation year after year : besides you can get a lot more work out of the men if they are well nourished, and really I assure you no one ever did such credit to good food as a negro whose eyes are bright whose skin is clear and whose temper is sunny, when he is well fed. “Talking about beating; of course it goes on to some extent though it is illegal in the eyes of the Administration, but a certain amount of discipline must be kept up by the head man of a gang and trifling corrections are not noticed by the authorities provided the men make no complaint; but in old days, I am told, before there was any Government here the amount of flogging that went on was a great deal too bad, and some cases were downright savage. The instrument used is a ‘chicote’!—a long, thin, rounded strip of hippopotamus hide about the thickness of a finger... . stiff but slightly plant. If this is applied to the bare skin it almost invariably breaks it and causes bleeding. For my part I am jolly careful not to get into trouble, and when one of my chaps was caught stealing the other day I preferred to bring him up before the Police Court and have him punished there instead of taking the law into my own hands. * * * * * “The first part of the estate we began to clear was the possible site for a house. I chose this on a little knoll overlooking the Lunzu and about fifty feet above the bank of the river which is seventy yards distant. 1 flattened the top of the knoll and had to cut down one or two trees. After this I selected the site of my nurseries and resolved to thoroughly clear, in addition, A “CAPITAO” about too acres for planting. The process of clearing is now going on briskly. I get up every morning at six and walk over from McClear’s house to my own plantation and turn out my Atonga who are living in w7sasa (ram- shackle shelters of sticks and thatch which they make to house themselves). Then the men turn out with cutlasses and axes and set to work cutting down the terribly rampant grass and herbage, and here and there a useless, shadeless tree or shrub. I am carefully leaving all the big trees for the shade they will give to the coffee ; they will grow all the finer for the clearing of the growth around them. * All the bush which is thus cut down will be left to lie in the sun and dry. Then the Atonga will pile it into heaps a few yards distant one from the other and set fire to it, and when it is burnt to ashes they will spread the ashes over the soil and dig it in. I am advised to get native women of the district to do this for me with native hoes. The women here work exceedingly hard—much better than the men—and ask less pay. A little while later on they will be beginning to prepare their own plantations before the big rains so it is as well to get them now if I can. For chance labour like this, for any term jess than a month and within their own district I shan’t have to register them.” 1 A Portuguese word.—H. H. J. 170 BRITISH: CENPRAE APRICH “ PazuLu, lVovember 20th. “‘T have been much too busy to write any letters for the last two months—awfully busy but wonderfully well and not the least bit dull. When I had cleared my ground for the plantation I had it lined out in regular rows from six feet to seven feet apart, and at intervals of about six feet along these rows we dug pits 18 inches wide and 18 inches deep. The pits were left open for some six weeks ‘to weather,” then we filled them up with soil, which was mixed with a manure made of cow-dung and wood ashes. After each pit had been filled up we stuck into the middle of it a bamboo stick (bamboos grow in abundance along the stream bank and on the hill-sides and are very useful) to mark the place where the coffee plant was to be put it. I made arrangements with a neigh- bouring planter to buy sufficient coffee seedlings of a year’s growth to plant up the 50 acres I have cleared. Every day we expect the rainy season to begin now—in fact to-day the zoth November is the date on which the big rains ordinarily begin near Blantyre (we had occasional showers in July and August and one or two in September, but no rain at all in October, only a lot of thunder and lightning and an occasional dry tornado). As soon as the rains have really broken I shall put the coffee plants in these pits. Iam told that whilst the coffee grows the weeds grow even quicker, and that the hardest time I shall have with my own men will be during December, January and February, keeping the weeds down. If we are not incessantly at work hoeing in between the coffee plants they will be smothered by the growth of weeds. “Tt is so very good of old McClear to put me up in his house that I have been doing my best to help him in between working on my own plantation. He gathered his first coffee crop this year, and is very pleased at the result. The berries were picked off the trees (which are three years old) at the end of June and the beginning of July, and all this was over before I arrived on the scene ; but I saw the berries when they were being pulped by machinery. By this process the sweet fleshy covering of the berries is taken off and the bean is disclosed encased in its parchment skin. You know of course that this splits into two seeds when you take off the dry skin and it is merely these seeds which you see when the coffee reaches you at home. I shall not get a pulper till I have owned my plantation for about four years, as it is hardly worth while for a poor man to have a maiden crop off a small plantation pulped by machinery. “After the beans are pulped they are passed into a brick vat where they are left to ferment for between 24 and 36 hours. Then they are removed to a second vat and thoroughly washed in water. Then they are taken out and dried on mats. After this they are further dried in a drying house and constantly turned over to prevent anything like mould. All through the end of September and the beginning of October we were busy packing the coffee in stout canvas bags, weighing about 56 lbs. each. Each bag was numbered and marked with McClear’s initials by stencil plates, and handed over to one of the transport companies here to be shipped direct to London, va Chinde. It will of course be carried partly on men’s heads and partly in waggons down to Katunga, and then they will send it down river to Chinde. It is to be hoped they will be careful not to put the bags into a leaky boat or steamer, because if they are wetted the coffee will be quite spoiled. The cost of sending this coffee from Blantyre to London is about £8 a ton. % * * * * * * * “ BLANTYRE, January Ist. “In spite of the rainy season which is well on us, we have spent a very jolly Christmas at Blantyre. Most of the planters from Cholo and the other districts round Blantyre have congregated here for Christmas week. We had a little mild horse- -racing and a shooting competition. Like most of the other Europeans here I belong to the Shire Highlands Shooting Club, but I did ae score Over W au on ee occasion, nee I was a bit off colour, having had HELE, HUROPEAN SETYLERS LFA of the rainy season I expect. We had a smoking concert in the Court House which was lent to us for the occasion, and the missionaries got up a big bazaar in aid of their school-house, and afterwards a lot of us were entertained at the Manse by the senior missionary where we heard some really good music. You have no idea what a pretty place the Manse is. It is rather a rambling house with a low thatched roof, but all the rooms open on to the verandahs with glass doors and plenty of windows so that they are very light inside though shielded from the sun. * * * * * * * * “There is a fairly good-club here with lots of newspapers. 1 belong to the club and get a bedroom there whenever I come into Blantyre. I cannot say I think much of the hotels. Perhaps when more Europeans come to the country it will be worth while building a good place to receive them where a check will be set on the unlimited consumption of whisky, which at present tends to a good deal of noise and brawling of a not very creditable kind. Whisky is the curse of this country as far as Europeans are concerned, and is the cause of more than half the sickness. “One of the chief drawbacks to this place, after all, is the lack of news. Blantyre is a hot-bed of gossip and rumours simply because it has no daily newspaper. ‘There are no Reuter’s telegrams to read at the club every day because we are not in direct telegraph communication with the outer world. The mails arrive with much uncertainty ; this is partly owing to the irregular way in which the ocean-going steamers call at Chinde. There are supposed to be two mails from Europe landed at Chinde in the month, but sometimes they both come together and then there is a month’s interval before another mail arrives; or when the mail is landed at Chinde there may be no steamer ready to start up-river with it. Again, in the dry season the steamers may stick on a sandbank before they reach Chiromo, and then the mails have to be sent overland to Blantyre, but the mail-carriers may have to ford flooded rivers, or they may be scared by a lion, so the time they take varies from two and a half to five days. Usually our letters and papers from England are six to seven weeks old when they reach us and I suppose my letters take the same time to reach you. Yet it is wonderful how much up to date people are here in information. It is astonishing what a lot everybody reads, and what heaps of newspapers and magazines are taken in. The Administration has started a lending library with a very decent collection of books, and although this is supposed to be primarily for Administration officials outsiders may by permission be allowed to join. We have a Planters’ Association and Chamber of Commerce. * * * * * * * * “The best fun I think is shooting. Game near Blantyre is getting scarce though there are heaps of lions and leopards, but it is so difficult to see them in the long grass and thick bush. What I enjoy, however, is going from a Saturday to Monday towards a mountain called Chiradzulu, and along the river Namasi. We always give our labourers on the plantations a Saturday half-holiday, and I can generally trust the capitaos to see that the men do a fair amount of work in the Saturday morning, so that I can sometimes get away on the Friday night with a companion or two. We take tent, beds, folding chairs and table, a few pots and pans and a basket of provisions. One of the chaps who generally comes with me brings his cook with him, a native boy trained at the Mission and not half a bad cook either. We usually ride out on our ponies as far as the Administration station on the Namasi river, as there is a good road there. Here we leave the nags under shelter and then strike off into the bush. Of course the rains are now on us and this sort of thing is not so pleasant in wet weather, but it was very jolly at the end of the dry season when the dense grass and bush were burnt, after the bush fires, and one could get about easily and see the game. We generally chose a place by the banks of a stream with plenty of shade, for our camp. The next day we would walk something like twenty miles in the course of our shooting, and although our luck varied C72 BRITISH "CENTRAL APRICA we seldom failed to get two or three buck at least. As to the guinea fowl, they were there in swarms! It was awfully jolly sitting smoking round a huge camp fire, so perfectly safe and yet in-such a wild country with lions roaring at intervals not far away, and the queer sounds of owls and tiger-cats and chirping insects coming from the thick bush. Our boys used to build rough shelters of branches to sleep in and try to keep up fires through the night, more to scare away wild beasts than for any other reason. Recently these little jaunts have been more charming on account of the gorgeousness of the wild flowers, for this is the spring of the year. I am a bit of a botanist, you know, but even if I was not I could not help admiring the gorgeous masses of colour which the different flowers produce among the young green grass, on the bushes, and on the big trees.” IN CAMP—AFTER A DAY’S SHOOTING “PazuLu, February 14th. “We have had an anxious time here with young McClear. He went down the Upper Shire to look at some land that his father is thinking of investing in for growing sugar (as the sugar cane grows there in tremendous luxuriance and there is a great local demand for sugar), but he is a very careless chap, you know, and what with getting wet through with rain and exposing himself too much to the sun and drinking whatever water he comes across, he has fallen ill with black-water fever since he came back to Blantyre. Nobody can quite account for this peculiar disease. Some people say it comes from turning up the new soil of a very rank kind; others—and they are generally doctors—assert that the germ is quite different from that in malarial fever, and enters the system from water, either through the pores of the skin in bathing or through the stomach, if the infected water is drunk. ‘Therefore there should be one very simple preventative by having all one’s washing and drinking water boiled. However it may be, young McClear went down with it very suddenly only two days after he got back. He seemed quite well in the morning, ate his breakfast as usual, and went out to the RHE EUROPEAN SETTLERS “73 plantation, but at eleven o’clock I met him coming back to breakfast (we have an early breakfast at six and a big breakfast at eleven—no luncheon) an hour before the usual time. I thought he looked awfully queer. There was a grey lock about his face and he was very dark about the eyes. He told me he felt a frightful pain in his back and was very cold. Instead of coming to breakfast he went to bed. Presently his boy came down to tell us that ‘ Master was very bad.’ Old McClear went up and found that his son had got the ‘black-water’ fever. He vomited steadily all that day, and at night-fall was as yellow as a guinea, besides being dreadfully weak. Of course we had the doctor over as soon as possible, but in this disease doctors at present can do very little. Quinine is of no avail and all that you can aim at is keeping up the patient’s strength. Young McClear was smartly purged and then given champagne and water to drink, and he went on vomiting all night and the greater part of next day. The doctor then injected morphia into his arm and this stopped the vomiting and gave him a little sleep. After that he managed to keep down some chicken broth, and the third and fourth days he mended. In six days he was seemingly all right, though a little weak, and on the seventh day he was actually up and about, and his skin had almost regained its normal colour. “ After a go of black-water fever it 1s always better to leave the country for a change if you can, but you ought not to hurry away too soon lest the fatigues of the journey should bring on a relapse, and therefore McClear will wait till April and then run down to Natal and back for atrip. Many men who come to this country never get black-water fever, either because they take great care of themselves or because the germs which cause the disease by attacking the red-blood corpuscles cannot get the mastery over their systems, but where a man finds himself to be subject to attacks of this disease I should advise him to quit: Central Africa is not for him.” “ PazuLuU, May 2nd. “Our rainy season came to an end a couple of weeks ago and I want to lose no time about building my house as a large quantity of bricks will have to be made during this dry season. I have hired some native brickmakers from Blantyre. They will be able to make about 1,000 bricks a day. I shall need about 45,000 bricks for my house. I have been cutting timber.on McClear’s land by arrangement, for joists and beams. The doors, match-board skirting, &c., I shall buy at one of the stores in Blantyre, where I shall also get corrugated iron for the roof and the timber for the inner ceiling, without which the bare iron would be a great deal too hot in the summer and too cold in the winter. I shall take care that all the rooms have fire-places. I cannot tell you how necessary fires are here for health and comfort. Fortunately we have any quantity of fire-wood. As I am trying hard to keep within my thousand pounds I shall not build a house of more than three rooms with a nice large verandah, and a portion of the verandah will be cut off as a bath-room and communicate with the bed-room by a door. “The other two rooms will be respectively dining-room and office in one, and private sitting-room. I shall also run up a small brick store with a strong roof and a strong door (to prevent thieving). My kitchen will be wattle and daub with a thatched roof and a brick chimney and will stand at a little distance from the house connected with it by a covered way. Another corner of the verandah beside the bath-room will be enclosed as a pantry and private store-room for provisions. In building my house I am strongly cautioned to avoid ‘‘a through draught.” The principle on which the oldest planters’ houses were built was a very unhealthy one. The front door opened into a kind of hall which was used as a dining-room, and immediately opposite the front door was a back door by which the food was brought in to the table. The result was that persons sitting at the table sat in a draught, and to sit in a draught in this country or to get a chill in any way is the surest cause of fever. “‘ My verandah will be paved with tiles which I can obtain in Blantyre from the men who make them. The foundations of the house will be brick, over which I shall put a good layer of cement to stop any nonsense on the part of white ants, though on my 174 BRITISH CENTRAL AP RICA estate we are not troubled with these pests so far as I know, but Thomas, of Blantyre, who lives near here, after building a very nice house has been awfully troubled with the white ants, who in a few nights would build up a huge ant-hill in the middle of the drawing-room, if he was away and the house shut up. They also came up under his bed and broke out all through the walls. The result was he had to take up his carefully laid floors, and dig and dig and dig, until he rooted out at least three separate nests. In one case he was obliged to tunnel down something like ten feet before he found the queen ; and until you have found and extirpated the queens your work has been for nothing, for if you fill up the hole the white ant community soon gets to rights again and recommences operations. ‘The worst of it is, you never know whether there may not be more than one queen in the nest and whether you have destroyed them all ! NATIVES MAKING BRICKS “In front of my house I intend to have a small terrace, which I shall plant in an orderly way with flower beds. Last month I ran over to Zomba for a visit and stayed with one of the officials of the Administration, and there I saw old W—— who is in charge of the Botanical Gardens, who has given me lots of flower seeds, and promised me any amount of plants and strawberries, as soon as my garden is ready to receive them. W-W— is giving away strawberry plants to everyone and I wonder that they are not more run after as those planted at Zomba produce excellent crops year after year, the fruit season lasting about five months. They are not large strawberries like those at home, but a small Alpine kind. Yet they are very fragrant and very sweet. “Down in the lower country near Lake Chilwa, you see a most extraordinary Euphorbia growing, which I am afraid most of the planters call “cactuses.”! These are both quaint and ornamental, and I am going to plant some of them along the bottom of my garden. In the centre of my flower beds I shall put wild date palms, which grow in the stream-valleys, and at each corner of the terrace there shall be a raphia palm. 1 There are no cacti in Africa, except the Ofzntza (prickly pear) introduced from America into North and South Africa.—H. H. J. Hie CEC ROPREAN- SErELERS 5 There is one attraction in this country for people who like flowers and palms on the table and about the house. Here they cost absolutely nothing. You have only to send a boy into the bush and he will come back with a young palm which would cost at least a guinea at home, or with a handful of flowers such as you might see in a horticultural show. “My coffee presents a most thriving appearance. I keep it studiously free from weeds. Next October I shall be ready to plant up another fifty acres. “Vou asked me to give you some idea of Blantyre. It seems hardly correct to speak of it as a town as the houses are still very scattered, yet it is now constituted as a township, and rather well laid out with roads. When all the blanks between the present dwellings are filled up, it will be a very large and important city. At present its future greatness is, as the French would say, only éauché. ‘The most striking feature is the church, which is a very handsome red brick building, apparently a mixture of Norman and Byzantine styles with white domes. It is really an extraordinarily fine church for the centre of Africa, and is appropriately placed in the middle of a large open space or square, without any other buildings near at hand to dwarf its proportions. When we had the Kawinga scare two or three months ago (I forgot to tell you that Kawinga the old slave- raiding chief to the north of Zomba attempted to try conclusions with the British two months ago), 1 was reported by the natives that Kawinga’s object in invading Blan- tyre would be to secure the church to himself as a residence! It is at present the mean by which all natives measure their ideas of a really fine building. On one side of the square there are gardens be- longing to the mission; on the other side a very handsome school designed somewhat in the Moorish style of architecture. Along the Zomba road to the north of the -church are the residences of the European missionaries. This church square is connected with the rest of Blantyre by a handsome avenue of cypresses and eucalyptus. The growth of the cypresses is astonish- ing, as well as their lateral bulk, and the road is completely shaded and delightful for a stroll, because of a strong wholesome perfume from these conifers. The soil about here is very red, and the neatly-made roads branching off in all directions passing through very green vegeta- CYPRESS AVENUE, BLANTYRE tion give a pretty effect to the eye. ‘There are no buildings along this road until you reach the vicinity of the Administration headquarters which are locally known as the ‘Boma.’!_ Here we come to a good many buildings, and all of them red brick with corrugated iron roofs and of one storey. ‘The corrugated iron is not as ugly as you might think as it is mostly painted red, w hich gives it more the appearance of tiles. } “Boma” is a Swahili word for “stockade.” The first settlement of the Government here was on a piece of property belonging to a native which had a stockade of thorn around it. Soon after this wes purchased, however, the thorn hedge was done away with.—-H. H. J. 176 BRITISH CENTRAL? APRICA: “Continuing along the straight road, and leaving the Government buildings to the right, you cross the Mudi stream by a fine bridge, built by the African Lakes Company. On the other side of the Mudi one is on the property of the African Lakes Company which is a large suburb, called Mandala, on rising ground, from which a fine view can be obtained of the Mission settlement. At Mandala there are many houses and stores and workshops and stables—all very neatly made of brick, with iron roofs. There are handsome roads and gardens and a perfect forest of eucalyptus. The company has ex- tensive nurseries there which extend down to the banks of the Mudi, and has had the good taste to preserve a bit of the old forest which covered the site of Blantyre when the missionaries first arrived. This forest chiefly consisted of a species of acacia tree which has dense dark green foliage in flat layers giving to it at a distance almost the appear. ance of a cedar. Beyond Mandala one joins the main road to Katunga, and the scenery becomes absolutely beautiful as you mount up towards the shoulder of Soche mountain. Here in all directions there is a beautiful forest, and the views in the direction of the Shire river might vie with the average pretty scenery of any country. There are Naaman a e still numbers of coffee plantations ate on the outskirts of Blantyre, though the tendency of the planters would: naturally be to keep their future plantations farther away from the vicinity of the town. The natives of Blantyre are a rather heterogeneous EUCALYPTUS AVENUE, ZOMBA lot. The foundation of the stock is of Mang’anja race, crossed with Yao, who invaded the country some years ago; but for many years refugees from other parts of the Protectorate have been gathering round the Mission station, the Lakes Company, Sharrer’s Traffic Company, and other large employers of labour, all of whom have brought men down from the lakes and up from the Zambezi, who have gradually made their permanent homes at Blantyre. Morality is very low, and although they are not strikingly dishonest still they are not above petty pilfering, and the coffee plantations which are too near the town are apt to have their berries picked by the black Blantyre citizens at night, and the coffee thus acquired is sent out and sold to native planters— for some of the educated natives and small chiefs have started coffee plantations. “ Unfortunately, the water supply here is very bad, though a little energy would set it allright. There is the Mudi stream, for instance, which flows perennially without much diminution, even in the dry season; but the upper waters of the Mudi flow through native villages and the settlements of the missionary scholars, and all these people wash their clothes and persons in the river, besides emptying into it all kinds of filth. The ' The Mudi is crossed higher up by another bridge which the Administration has just made. —-H. H. J THE EUROPEAN SETTLERS 177 result is that its waters are quite unfit for drinking purposes. A few of the settlers have wells, but all of these except two seem to produce slightly brackish unwholesome water. Away to the north of Blantyre arises another very fine stream, the Likubula. This is rather too much below the level of Blantyre to make it easy to convey the water to the township. ‘The simplest expedient would seem to be the purification of the Mud. “But if the Mudi be at present unwholesome its banks are charming for the foliage of the trees and the loveliness of the wild flowers. I would notice specially one crimson lily which gives a succession of flowers for many months of the year. ** And yet how extraordinary people are in regard to wild flowers! I remember when I had just been admiring these red lilies on the Mudi’s banks I went to dinner with one of the married couples in Blantyre, and the lady of the house apologised to me for the bareness of the table, complaining that her garden as yet produced no flowers. Yet she had only got to send one of the servants out to the banks of the stream and to the adjoining fields and she could have decked her table with red lilies, mauve, orange, and white ground-orchids, and blue bean flowers in a way which would excite anyone’s envy at home. “My reference to ‘married couples’ reminds me to tell you that a good many of the men settled here are married and their wives seem to stand the climate as well as if not even better than their husbands, because, I imagine, they are exposed less to the sun and do not have so much outdoor work. Although it is not consistent with the duties of the planter still it is borne in on my mind that the healthiest life in Central Africa is an indoor life. People who keep very much to the house and do not go out or go far afield between 9 a.m. and 4 p.m. never seem to get fever. At the same time you should not remain out after sunset as you are apt to get a chill. * * * * * * * * I do not know whether in the foregoing extracts from supposititious letters I have succeeded in giving a fairly correct idea of the life that Europeans lead under present conditions in British Central Africa. More will be said on this subject in dealing with the Missionaries. For the trader and the planter I think it may be said that the country offers sufficiently sure and rapid profits for their enterprise to compensate the risk run in the matter of health. The various trading companies in the country appear to be doing well with an ever-extending business and to be constantly increasing the number of their establishments. Even traders in a small way, if they have energy and astuteness, may reap con- siderable earnings with relatively small outlay. One man, for instance, went up to Kotakota on Lake Nyasa with a few hundreds of pounds at his disposal, bought a large number of cattle at a very low price in the Marimba district and pur- chased all the ivory the Arabs at Kotakota had to dispose of, and on his total transaction made a clear profit of £2000 by selling the cattle and ivory at Blantyre; but it appears to me that as se time goes on the European trading community A PLANTER will be limited to the employés of two or three great trading companies commanding considerable capital, and to a number of British Indians who will not in any way conflict with the commerce of the Europeans because they will often act as the middlemen buying up small 12 178 BRITISH CENTRAL, APRIG& quantities of produce here and there from the natives which they will re-sell in large amounts to the European firms and agencies. The remainder of the European settlers will be rather planters than traders, disposing likewise of their produce to the commercial companies in British Central Africa. Originally when there was very little or no cash in the country every planter had likewise to be a trader on a small scale as all labourers were paid in trade goods, and all the food that he bought from the natives was purchased in the same manner. Now the country is full of cash, and in many districts the natives refuse to accept any payment except in money, preferring to go to the principal stores and make their purchases there. To a certain extent, moreover, money payments are now compulsory between European employers and their native employés; moreover a planter often objects to taking out a trading licence and prefers instead to relinquish his small commerce in this respect. Briefly stated, the only serious drawback to British Central Africa as a field of enterprise for trader or planter is malarial fever, either in its ordinary form, or in its severest type which is commonly known as _black- water fever. I shall have a few words to say about this malady further on. AN IVORY CARAVAN ARRIVING AT KOTAKOTA The advantages are, at the present time, that land is cheap; the country is almost everywhere well watered by perennial streams, and by a reasonable rainfall; the scenery is beautiful in many of the upland districts; the climate is delicilous—seldom too hot and often cold and pleasant ; there is an abundance of cheap native labour; transport, though offering certain difficulties inherent in all undeveloped parts of Africa, is growing far easier and cheaper than in Central South Africa, as the Shire river is navigable at all times of the year, except for about 80 miles of its course, and Lake Nyasa is an inland sea with a shore line of something like 800 miles. Moreover, the cost of simple articles of food such as oxen, goats or sheep, or of antelopes and other big game, poultry, eggs, and milk is cheap, together with the prices of a few vegetables like potatoes or grain like Indian corn; and all the European goods are not so expensive as they would be in the interior of Australia, in Central South Africa, or in the interior of South America because of the relative cheapness of transport from the coast and of the very low Customs duties. To sum up the question, I might state with truth that dz for malarial fever this country would be an earthly paradise ; the “but” however is a very big one. Whether the development of medical science will enable us to find the same antidote to malarial fever as we have found for small-pox in vaccination, or whether drugs will be discovered which will make the treatment of the disease and recovery therefrom almost certain, remains to be seen. If however THE EUROPEAN SETTLERS 179 ° here, as in other parts of tropical Africa, this demon could be conjured, beyond all question the prosperity of Western Africa, of the Congo Basin and of British Central Africa would. be almost unbounded. Ordinary malarial fever is serious but not so dangerous as that special form of it which is styled “black-water” or hamaturic. The difference between the effects of the two diseases is this. Ordinary malarial fever is seldom immediately fatal but after continued attacks the patient is often left with some permanent weakness. Black-water fever is either fatal in a very few days or has such a weakening effect on the heart that the patient dies during convalescence from sudden syncope; but where black-water fever does not kill it never leaves (as far as I am aware) permanent effects on the system of the sufferer. One attack, however, predisposes to another and as a rule each succeeding attack is more severe than its predecessor. Consequently a man who has had, say, two attacks of black-water fever should not return to any part of Africa where that disease is endemic.1 The origin and history of bilious hamoglobinuric or “ black-water” fever are still obscure. No mention of this disease would appear to have been made until the middle of this century when it was described by the French naval surgeons at Nossibé in Madagascar. According to Dr. Wordsworth Poole, the principal medical officer of the British Central Africa Protectorate, true black- water fever has occurred in parts of America and in the West Indies besides those portions of Africa and Madagascar to which I have made allusion in the footnote. Dr. Poole states that he has seen a case of it in Rome and that it is said to occur in Greece. The cases occurring in tropical America which Dr. Poole cites I should be inclined to ascribe to a variation of the ordinary type of yellow fever. Now yellow fever, in my opinion, is a very near connection of black-water fever, and some writers on Africa have stated that yellow fever was actually engendered on the slave ships which proceeded from West Africa to South America, and have suggested it was simply an acute development of the ordinary African hamoglobinuric fever. One remarkable feature in this disease appears to be that assuming it is only endemic in certain parts of Africa, its germs would seem to be capable of lying dormant for some time in the human system and then to suddenly multiply into prodigious activity and produce an attack of black-water fever some time after the individual has left the infected district. For instance, in 1893 after having been absent nearly two months from British Central Africa in Cape Colony and in Natal, I had a most severe attack of black-water fever, which commenced at Durban on board a gunboat and finished at Delagoa Bay. Again, when travelling through the Tyrol in the autumn of 1894, I was suddenly seized with a slight but obvious attack of this fever after returning from a mountain ascent. Although only ill for about twenty-four 1 At the present time black-water fever is endemic on the West Coast of Africa from the Gambia on the north to Benguela on the south, and inland as far as the limits of the forest country of West Africa. It extends over the whole of the Congo basin. I believe a few cases were noted on the White Nile and the western tributaries of the Nile before the Mahdi’s revolt expelled the Europeans from these parts. It is endemic in the regions round the Victoria Nyanza and Tanganyika; in the eastern half of British Central Africa; along the whole course of the Zambezi between Zumbo and its mouth ; in the Portuguese province of Mogambique; in German East Africa; and in British East Africa. It is said not to be endemic in the islands of Zanzibar and Pemba and that those persons who have suffered from it there brought the germs of it from some other part of Africa.. I have not heard that it exists at Beira or south of the Zambezi, but should not be surprised to learn that cases of it occasionally occur there. Roughly speaking, it may be said that as far as we know the Upper Niger regions, the North Central and Eastern Sudan, Abyssinia, Somaliland, Galaland, Egypt, Northern Africa and Africa South of the Zambezi are free from it. It is said to occur in Madagascar. 180 BRITISH CENTRAL APRICA hours I had every symptom of black-water fever in a marked form. A case occurred with one of the ladies of the Universities Mission at Zanzibar who had an attack of black-water fever which came on after her return to England. The mortality in black-water fever is about 40 per cent. among those who have the disease for the first time; 50 per cent. among those who have it for the second time; 75 per cent. among those who have it for the third time; and it is very rare that anyone survives more than three attacks. Not counting the trifling little touch in the Tyrol, I have had four attacks of this disease at different periods from 1886 to 1896. I know one of the German officials in East Africa who has survived five attacks and is apparently in robust health, and Dr. Kerr Cross mentions an European in North Nyasa (in good health at the present time) who has had this fever ten times! On the last occasion when I had black-water fever I derived very great benefit from a single injection of morphia, which checked the vomiting and gave the body time for repose and recuperation. Otherwise I know of absolutely no drug which has been proved really efficacious in treating this dangerous disease. All we can say at the present time is that good nursing and a good constitution will generally pull patients through an attack. Quinine appears to be of little use, unless during convalescence. The symptoms of the disease are the following :— The patient ordinarily complains of a severe pain in his back and a general sense of malaise. This is often succeeded by a violent shivering fit. Upon passing urine the latter is found to be a dark sepia colour, and subsequently becomes a deep black with reddish reflexions, which accounts for the popular name given to the fever. Sometimes the colour is almost the tint of burgundy or claret. Not many hours after the attack has begun the colour of the patient’s skin becomes increasingly yellow. The temperature may sometimes be as high as 105 degrees following on the shivering fit, but high temperatures are not necessarily a very marked or serious symptom in black-water fever. A most distressing vomiting is perhaps the most customary symptom next to the black water. The best way to treat this fever is to put the patient immediately to bed, placing hot-water bottles at his feet, and to give him a strong purge. At first the vomiting should not be checked, but as soon as it tends to weaken the patient it ought to be stopped, if not by some opiate drug administered through the stomach, then by an injection of morphia. When it is deemed that the patient has vomited sufficiently to get rid of the poison in the system, and the further vomiting has been to some extent checked, nourishment should then be administered at frequent intervals—strong beef-tea, milk and brandy, eggs beaten up with port wine, &c. Champagne and water, especially if this drink can be iced and made into a champagne-cup, is excellent. Champagne is often of great use in this disease in restoring the patient’s strength. Once the dangerous crisis of the disease is passed and any relapse is guarded against by the most careful nursing, the patient is pretty sure to recover, unless he has naturally a very weak heart. The recovery is often pleasantly quick. In all my attacks of black-water fever there has rarely elapsed more than a week between the commencement of the disease and the power to get up and walk about, and convalescence in other ways has come rapidly. Undoubtedly much ill-health might be avoided in tropical Africa by the adoption of very temperate habits. I have written strongly on the drink question in such Reports to the Government as have been published ; I do not . THe LUROPEAN SETTLERS 181 therefore propose to repeat my diatribes in this book. But it should be added that what I object to is not the drinking of good wine or beer, but the con- sumption of spirits. Whisky is the bane of Central Africa as it is of West Africa, South Africa and Australia. I dare say brandy is as bad as whisky but it has passed out of fashion as a drink, and therefore it has not incurred my animosity to the same extent as the national product of Scotland and Ireland Moreover, brandy is invaluable in sickness. If any spirits are drunk it seems to me that gin is the least harmful, as it has a good effect on the kidneys. In hot climates like that of Central Africa whisky seems to have a bad effect on the liver and on the kidneys. I do not suppose these words will have much effect on my readers. IVORY AT MANDALA STORE (AFRICAN LAKES COMPANY) Alcoholic excess is our national vice, and while we are ready enough to deplore the opium-eating-or-smoking on the part of the Indians or Chinese, —a vice which is not comparable in its ill effects to the awful abuse of alcohol which is so characteristic of the northern peoples of Europe,—we still remain indifferent to the effects of spirit-drinking which has been the principal vice of the nineteenth century. The abuse of wine or beer, though bad like all abuses, is a relatively wholesome excess compared to even a moderate consumption of spirits. Though I think of the two extremes total abstinence is the better course to follow in Central Africa, I do zo¢ recommend total abstinence from all forms of alcohol. I think, on the contrary, the moderate use of wine is distinctly beneficial, especially for anzemic people. Trading with the natives on a large scale is, as I have said, chiefly confined to two or three large companies—the African Lakes, Sharrer’s, the Oceana Company and Kahn & Co. But a small amount of barter chiefly for provisions 1 Which alone, I believe, among strong waters develops the poisonous Fusel Oil. 182 BRITISH "CENTRAL AERICE is still carried on by all Europeans residing in the less settled parts of British Central Africa. The imported trade goods consisted chiefly of cotton stuffs from Manchester and Bombay, beads from Birmingham and Venice, blankets from England, India and Austria, fezzes from Algeria and from Newcastle- under-Lyne, boots from Northampton, felt hats from various parts of England, hardware and brass wire and hoes from Birmingham, cutlery from Sheffield, and various fancy goods from India. The trade products which British Central Africa gives us in exchange for these goods and for much English money in addition are: Ivory, coffee, hippo. teeth, rhinoceros horns, cattle, hides, wax, rubber, oil seeds, sanseviera fibre, tobacco, sugar (locally consumed), wheat (ditto), maize (ditto), sheep, goats and poultry (ditto), timber (ditto), and the Strophanthus drug. KAHN AND CO’S TRADING STORE AT KOTAKOTA It only remains to say a few words about the relations between the Europeans and the natives. I am convinced that this eastern portion of British Central Africa will never be a white man’s country in the sense that all Africa south of the Zambezi, and all Africa north of the Sahara will eventually become—countries where the white race is dominant and native to the soil. Between the latitudes of the Zambezi and the Blue Nile, Africa must in the first instance be governed in the interests of the black man, and the black man will there be the race predominant in numbers, if not in influence. The future of Tropical Africa is to be another India; not another Australia. The white man cannot permanently colonise Central Africa ; he can only settle on a few favoured tracts, as he would do in the North of India. Yet Central Africa possesses boundless resources in the way of commerce, as it is extremely rich in natural products,—animal, vegetable and mineral. These it will pay the European to develop and should equally profit the black man to produce. Untaught by the European he was living like an animal, miserably poor in the midst of boundless wealth. Taught by the European he will be able to develop tit PUROPEAN SETTLERS 183 this wealth and bring it to the market, and the European on the other hand will be enriched by this enterprise. But Central Africa is probably as remote from self government or representative institutions as is the case with India. It can only be administered under the benevolent despotism of the Imperial Government, though in the future and developed administration there is no reason to suppose that black men may not serve as officials in common with white men and with yellow men, just as there are Negro officials in the adminis- tration of the West African colonies, and Malay officials in the Government of the Straits Settlements. It must not be supposed that the Administration of British Central Africa has always had, or will always command the unhesitating support of the white settlers now in the country. It sometimes seems to me that the bulk of these sturdy pioneers (excellent though the results of their work have been in develop- ing the resources of the country) would, if allowed to govern this land in their own way, use their power too selfishly in the interests of the white man. This I find to be the tendency everywhere where the governing white men are not wholly disinterested, are not, that is to say, paid to see fair play. From time to time a planter rises up to object to the natives being allowed to plant coffee, in case they should come into competition with him, or urges the Administration to use its power despotically to compel a black man to work for wages whether he will or not. The ideal of the average European trader and planter in Tropical Africa would be a country where the black millions toil unremittingly for the benefit of the white man. They would see that the negroes were well fed and not treated with harshness, but anything like free will as to whether they went to work or not, or any attempt at competing with the white man as regards education or skilled labour would not be tolerated. As a set off against this extreme is the almost equally unreasonable opinion entertained by the missionaries of a now fast-disappearing type, that Tropical Africa was to be developed with English money and at the cost of English lives, solely and only for the benefit of the black man, who, as in many mission stations, was to lead an agreeably idle life, receiving food and clothes gratis, and not being required to do much in exchange but make a more or less hypocritical profession of Christianity. This mawkish sentiment, however, no longer holds the field, and there is scarcely a mission in Nyasaland which does not inculcate among its pupils the stern necessity of work in all sections of humanity. The great service that Christian missions have rendered to Africa has been to act as the counterpoise to the possibly selfish policy of the irresponsible white pioneer, in whose eyes the native was merely a chattel, a more or less useful animal, but with no rights and very little feeling. It is the mission of an impartial administration to adopt a mean course between the extreme of sentiment and the extreme of selfishness. It must realise that but for the enterprise and capital of these much-criticised, rough and ready pioneers Central Africa would be of no value and the natives would receive no payment for the products of their land, would, in fact, relapse into their almost ape-like existence of fighting, feeding and breeding. Therefore due encouragement must be shown to European planters, traders and miners, whose presence in the country is the figure before the ciphers. Yet, it must be borne in mind that the negro is a man, with a man’s rights ; above all, that he was the owner of the country before we came, and deserves, nay, is entitled to, a share in the land, commensurate with his needs and 184 BRITISH CENTRAL APRICA numbers; that in numbers he will always exceed the white man, while he may some day come to rival him in intelligence; and that finally if we do not use our power to govern him with absolute justice the time will come sooner or later when he will rise against us and expel us as the Egyptian officials were expelled from the Sudan. APPENDIX: BILIOUS HAX.MOGLOBINURIC: OR, BLACK-WATER FEVER BY DR. D. KERR CROSS, M.B. Tuis form of fever has been met with in the Mauritius, Senegal, Madagascar, the Gold Coast, French Guiana, Venezuela, in some parts of Central America, and the West India Islands. It is even said to have been seen in some parts of Italy and Spain. It has been carefully studied in Nosi-bé, on the north-west of Madagascar, where it is estimated that one in fourteen of the Malarial Fevers treated there were Haemoglobinuric. Some cases observed in Rome have been carefully studied, with the result that some are associated with the Plasmodium Malarie—the Bacterium in Malarial Fever—while others are not. The same has been the case on the Gold Coast. The generally accepted opinion is that Hzemoglobinuric fever may arise apart from any malarial affection. Any bacterium which destroys the Red Blood Corpuscles and sets free the red colouring matter—Hzemoglobin—will bring about this form of fever. Haemoglobin is an irritant to the kidneys, and brings on a congested state of that organ. In this form of fever we always find the kidneys abnormal both in size and in weight, while there is a bleeding into the tissue under the capsule and in the interstitial cortical substance, or with the discolora- tion which we know to result from these conditions. The Epithelia lining the convo- luted tubes of the kidney are larger than normal and are cloudy, while the tubes themselves contain casts that are stained yellow ; this yellow staining being in a very fine state of division or, in some cases, in large granules. There is a marked obstruction of the tubules of the kidney, both in the cortical and pyramidal portion. The blood vessels and capillaries are often found to contain corpuscles that are deeply stained. This is also the case with the glomeruli of the organ. The serum of the blood contains great quantities of free haemoglobin which gives it a yellow colour. This yellow colour is seen in the serum obtained from the application of a blister to the surface and in blood drawn for microscopic purposes. This form of fever begins as a regular remittent. There is usually severe vomiting of bilious matter—indeed, my experience is that in a severe case there is vomiting every half-hour night and day. There are bilious stools of a frothy yellow substance. There is very marked jaundice over the whole body. ‘There is delirium of a violent form. Sometimes there is a free discharge of black urine or, it may be. of actual blood. Towards the close of a fatal case there is suppression of the urine resulting in coma and convulsions. Everything in this affection points to the wholesale destruction of the Red Blood Corpuscles, and to a desperate effort on the part of the system to throw something off. From the suddenness with which the tissues of the whole body become yellow, we might say that every tissue takes on itself the power of secreting bile. Bile is eliminated by the bowels, by the skin, by the kidneys, and by the liver. The patient vomits, purges, sweats, and in some cases bleeds. The gums, it may be, become spongy and sore, and may even shed blood. There may be bleeding from the mouth and nose and over purple spots on the skin. As in the case of yellow fever, there may be a — eS’ ee, =e ver APPENDICES 185 bleeding from the mucous membrane of the stomach and bowels, which, acted on by the digestive fluids, may lead toa Black Vomit. A marked feature, too, in some cases is that the attacks are paroxysmal. They come on with a shivering fit, with pains in the back, retention of the testes, vomiting, and lowered temperature. ‘Two hours afterwards, when the urine is passed, it is bloody, contains albumin, and deposits a thick sediment. The dark urine may continue to be passed for three or four days, but in other cases after a few hours there is a return to the normal state. I have known of seizures to come on every morning about eight o’clock for ten or twelve days in succession. Gradually, how- ever, they seemed to diminish in severity, and then to pass off. Between the attacks the urine seemed perfectly normal. There is another form where we get actual blood in the urine. The blood is intimately mixed with the urine, and is like “ porter.” Then we may get actual suppression of urine. The malarial poison acts on the kidneys like a poison. The result of this suppression is ureemic poisoning. It seems to be the case that certain constitutions have a predisposition to this form of fever. There are many who have resided in British Central Africa for ten or more years who have not once suffered from its effects, while others have not been resident as many months, and have suffered from several attacks. It is not the case that quinine taken in prophylactic doses every day arms the constitution against it. For myself personally I take this drug only when I think I need it, and not as a preventative medicine ; and while I have suffered from ordinary fever I have not once in eleven years had the more serious affection. This also seems to be an accepted fact: one attack of black-water fever predisposes to another, so that eventually every attack of malarial fever will take this form. I think this explains the fact of one European at the north of Lake Nyasa having had ten consecutive attacks in a period of three years. From the suddenness of its onset and the equal suddenness of its disappearance, together with its remarkable tendency in some cases to come on in paroxysms, I think that the explanation is to be found in the study of the neurotic supply of the kidney. It is remarkable, too, that women and weakly persons are seldom affected. It seems to be confined to young, healthy individuals, in whom there is great muscular waste. It comes on, too, after a long spell of the most robust health, and that with great sudden- ness. I think, too, that it is a disease of mountainous regions. It does occur in the lower parts, but my observation leads me to affirm that it is more prevalent in hilly districts in the centre of malarious regions. APPENDIX. II. fwt> AS TO OUTFIT FOR BRITISH CENTRAL AFRICA 1. FLANNEL is a great mistake unless it is mixed with a large proportion of silk. Pure flannel is an abomination in the tropics. Either on account of some inherent property of the wool, or probably of some chemical compound with which it is prepared, the action of perspiration on the flannel in a tropical country is to at once create a most offensive smell, even in persons who are constantly changing their clothes, and who attend to personal cleanliness. Moreover, no flannel yet invented (all advertisements on the subject are to be absolutely disbelieved) ever failed to shrink into unwearableness after, at most, the third washing. Again, the feel of the flannel on the skin in a warm climate is singularly irritating and hurtful. Persons going to Africa are strongly advised to wear not flannel, but either silk and wool underclothing, or merino. Merino is excellent. It is cleanly, absolutely odourless, stands any amount of washing, and is pleasant in contact with the skin. Under almost all circumstances save those where the temperature rises above roo degrees in the shade, a merino under-garment should always be worn 186 BRITISH CENTRAL APRICA next the skin, night and day, over the chest and stomach, though for the sake of clean- - liness the garment should be constantly changed. Especially is this necessary at night time, when very dangerous chills often occur by the sudden lowering of the temperature after midnight and the exposure of the naked body to this lowered temperature when covered with perspiration. The best form of underclothing of this kind is merino vests and merino drawers. Pantaloons are preferable to the short drawers which are sometimes worn, which reach no further down than the knee. The reason of this is that it is as well to protect the calf of the leg as much as possible from the attacks of insects which may succeed in piercing the trousers with their probosces, but find it difficult to get through the merino as well. Many of the ulcers from which people suffer in Central Africa have their origin in mosquito bites, or in the attacks of certain flies which deposit their eggs under the skin. While a merino vest should be worn next the skin at night, the drawers, of course, are removed, and it is only the upper part of the body (especially the stomach) which requires'‘eareful protection from chill. Night-gowns are quite obsolete. I believe these indecent inadequacies still survive in remote parts of the United Kingdom and on the benighted ‘‘Continent,” but they have long since been banished from the life of Europeans in the tropics. Sleeping suits or paijamas are worn. ‘These consist of a jacket and trousers. They can be obtained at any shop in London. The most suitable material is of silk and wool, but cotton paijamas are quite sufficient for ordinary purposes, provided a merino vest is worn. Clad in paijamas the wearer can with perfect propriety walk about on the deck of a steamer or on the verandah of his house in the early morning. Another much praised invention which is almost useless in Central Africa is the pith helmet. Such a thing, I suppose, is scarcely ever seen there now. By far the most suitable hat is a light canvas helmet or a large thick felt hat with a huge brim, which is sufficiently stiff to turn up or down to shade the wearer’s face or to allow the cool air to have free access as the case may be. The Terai hat is, on the whole, the best kind, but it does not appear to me to have a sufficiently wide brim. I believe suitable felt hats, cheap and of the kind I am inclined tc recommend, can be purchased at the Army and Navy Stores. No hat should be heavy. All hats should, if possible, be ventilated by small holes at the top. Another kind of hat, which is very useful and protects the head a good deal from the sun, is the straw hat with a wide brim supplied to the blue-jackets in the Navy in tropical countries. These are called, I believe, ‘“Sennet” hats. Besides other places, they can be obtained from Messrs. S. W. Silver and Co., of Cornhill. A small round polo cap is very useful for wearing on the head when sitting on verandahs, or under the awning of a steamer. To go about with a bare head outside a house is often bad, as one is exposed to catching cold from the breeze, or may even feel the effect of the sun through the awning of a steamer, or by refraction from a wall or a piece of bare ground. 2. Clothes.—It is a good thing for a traveller to take out with him all his old English clothes, which prove to be very useful in the cool uplands of British Central Africa. A warm great-coat is absolutely essential. It should be remembered that people suffer much more from co/d in British Central Africa than they do from /eaz.!_ A macintosh which will not come to pieces in warm weather is also useful for going about in the rain. A man should never be without his great coat in Central Africa. He may need it at any moment, especially if he has been perspiring freely and evening is drawing near. The evening dress, which is usually worn by employés of the British Central Africa Administration, consists of an ordinary dress coat, white shirt, white tie, dress waistcoat of yellow cloth with brass buttons, and black trousers. A short evening coat without tails is often worn. Lounge coats and smoking jackets come in very handy. Amongst other exposed absurdities are knee-boots, that is to say, boots which are ' N.B.—The great coat should not fit tightly to the figure; it should be comfortably loose and provided with a very deep collar which can, if necessary, be turned up to shield the neck and throat, and reach almost to the back of the head. ) 4 APPENDICES 187 continued up to the knee. They are soon discarded in Central Africa as uncomfortable and unwearable. Field boots should be of tanned leather, laced up and only coming to the ankle. The soles should be thick, but the boots must be light and not cumber- some. When walking or riding, cloth gaiters from the ankle to the knee, or spats from the instep to half way up the calf of the leg, are comfortable, suitable, and usually worn. Cloth or canvas gaiters are better than leather, as leather becomes so hard in this climate. Some people wear knickerbockers. This involves stockings however, and stockings are very hot for the legs, and the attempt to keep them up with garters causes a disagreeable constriction about the knee. It is much better to have trousers that can be pulled up slightly and the gaiters buttoned over them. ‘The trousers can then be slightly folded over the top of the gaiter or the spat.

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eu Ip ey : * Jou yea | opUr.su-27) ‘ont-29 “pny Dpul-7 *aantdop-7 *OQULUNI-29 "'YSYSUT O.LNI GULVISNVUL SHONULNYS GNV SGYOM HSITONY AO AUVTONAVOOA joe VOCABULARIES (xYfaeg 2, 24) S2 -NIN) ool] aqut eUNyTN Y22JS =19RSIN ‘2/7727 = oyolu rsesut vanunpin RINE] VIIq J] Anp-07 =ouury ¢i 97109 e Rp] vadury, é PIPL Bmolnyy nok 79s Jou op 7 =BUOM -luluvsu =: BqUeM Sy) 21uaM -quiemut (7701) ofamyy (712) 9[IMSN JJOMOM VII} TT aquiamsurul epusje osueweN : * gomynstr tunly ‘24a ‘S2 Os -pun-05 “477 =ounl equinku fT @ ouokuag * gaquinuy 19 nyNSN Ipuou -eI| vduvsl] vsosnsNy : * oquus oyeSury, "+ pny rueq yy : 219 VAINIT DOLeA\ . * ¢toro sw TL os | dam anay vunjey euLpeury Pyyex “WT * geUodm voIDMTIUZ enna “BUM BPUNMOM JVI ; * eluneud PIM eMEM “MZ 9Ud}0Z 1UNUy * eqnurmu turqouli évyes -1smk vu] vuNzUZ aueyiu eseunsn[u = vunjeury oueyured BSEMGOYI ILL : * vkemf ayearyy y * GTUIT BANUUZS dues BUNMOvUNIUIN, grea eruaryrayy ¢vUOYO vLJPMOSvUNIUL) BMSUO]EUL -1u feynMo = oxytdea]Y * epuvut tu ourepedq * —- BABAOP oureed| : * amueduny 9 cette -wuek. nyo ayeary ououou -OUTT OYN[U vIAeULy ououou -ou oxyde ajeyey : + 901] OYRMTY : * ¢1uIyT amIeuy—) : ech aca eNT 7 8 eHeyeayy * vuo nu Ipu ey a4ag be eclLpou ede plone * BMqn-ou-n Qn UN] * gjunoun vzesedeg * - BARAN TYR oUElTeg : * equinu.w TT 9 : “d1Ane BA Tpu 1) euo “UBM VIVBMU BUF ICT * oquus aftpems IPN : vfoX aud va IPN > : caieuyiieesal : ‘ cTUBMSUIY c * ¢tuvs-oju Q : * jouues [ ‘ON * gout aes nod ued S]]@}J 9913 099301 BY suleasos yolred ayy Aeme MOY Sprig sy 7 asnoy ay} apisur st aH dour oars nof Trea (T4403) HOT, dU0}S 9]}}1] B JUL | 3014S [Jews e ou 3nd : * pooj out aaryy ¢ SurIWI0d noy} 41e vayM ¢3onp am []eys yum 2es nof op yey INDEX Nore,—All African names of countries, languages, or peoples, which are not found under their | initial letter in this Index, should be looked for under the initial of the root-word. Thus for Ci-Yao see Yao, Ci-, or Yao language ; for Wunyamwezi see Nyamwezi, Wu-; Anyanja, Nyanja, A-. In all cases, however, where the reader might be supposed not to be acquainted with the root-word, the commonest compounds are also given—Awemba, as well as Emba, Aw-. The lists of scientific names given in the Appendices are not always referred to in the Index. Aard-wolf, 285 Abu Bakr, 116 Abyssinia, 286, 295, 303 Acacia trees, 3, 29, 209, 220 Accountants, B.C. A. Administration, 151 Addax antelope, 314 Aden, 63 Aden Arabs, 102 Administration of B.C.A , 107; Appendix to Chap. IV. (Attitude of towards slavery), 158 Advantages of B.C.A., 178 Africa, Central, 181-2, 211 “ Africa Orders in Council,” 114, 154 African Lakes Company, 67, 71, 74, 77, 78, 82, 97; 98, 116, 121, 137, 143, 147-8, 149 (Bank), 150; 160-1, 165, 176, 181 “Africana” (by Rev. A. Duff Macdonald), 68, 416 Afzelia, 224 Agriculture, Native, 37, 424, e¢ seg. Albert Nyanza, 480 Albizzia trees, 2, 4, 220 Alcohol (in Africa), 180-1 Alge in Lake Nyasa, 283 Alluvial soil, 48 ; gold, 49 Aloes, 4, 222-223 Alston, Lieut., 134, 136, 138, ef seg., 140, 141, 144, 146 Ambo, Wambo Tribe, 459 America and the Slave Trade, 156, 157 Amomums (Malaguetta pepper), 225, 226 Amphibia, 362 Anoa, 303 Ancestor-worship, 449 Anderson, Sir Percy, 119, 129 Anderson Fort (see Fort Anderson) Anemone, 211, 234 Angas’s Tragelaph, vide Inyala, Anglo-German Convention, 94, 96 Anglo-Indian, 147 Anglo-Portuguese Convention, 96, 98 Angoche, 56, 99, 156 Angola, 59, 286, 334, 479 Angoni, the, 28, 32, 62-3, 70, 106, 144, 157, 162, 392, 419, 421, 423, 432, 470 Angoniland, 49, 421 ’ 532 Angraecum orchids, 210 Anguru (people and country), 58, 130 Anona (Custard apple), 220, 226, 428 Ansellia orchid, 210 Anseres, 337 Ant-eater, Scaly (see Manis) Antelopes, 10, 309 59 Sable, 4, 317 (see Sable) Anthropology, 392, ef seq. Ants, 375 Apes, Anthropoid, 285 Arab, Arabs, 23, 24, 30, 31, 32; 54, 56, 62, 64, 71, ef seg., 82, 92, 94, 102, 124, 135, et seq., 156, et seg., 392, 429, 434, 437, 440, 478 Arab town, word picture of an, 22, e¢ seg. Arabia (Southern), 54, 71 Arabic, 478-9 ; (Coast), 555 478 Aristea (iris), 212 Armed Forces of B.C.A., 152-3 Arnot, F, S. (Plymouth Brethren Mission), 190 Artillery (used against Arabs), 75, 139, 140 Artiodactyla, 291 ‘ Arums, 216 Atonga, 70, 72, 104, 116, 118, 130, 131, 168, 404 » Marriage customs, 413, 414, 417, 419 Aulacodus swinderenianus, 291 Australians in B.C.A., 147 Austro-Hungarian settlers in B.C.A., 147 Author (commencement of interest in affairs of Nyasaland), 80; Kilimanjaro Expedition, 82 (and see Kilimanjaro); work in Niger Coast Protec- torate, 80; conversation with Lord Salisbury, 80; made Consul in Portuguese East Africa, 81; proceeds to Lisbon, 81; article in the » Times, 81 ; ——’s interview with Serpa Pinto 83; with Mlauri, the Makololo Chief, 84; makes treaties with Makololo, 85; ——’s ride to Blantyre; arranges for British Pro- tectorate and leaves for Upper Shire, 86; reception at hands of Lieut. Coutinho, 88 ; reaches Mponda’s, journeys Likoma, Bandawe, and Kotakota on Lake Nyasa, 90; secures first portion of B.C,A. by arrangement with Jumbe, 92; makes peace with North Nyasa Arabs, 94; starts for Tan- ganyika, 95; explores Lake Rukwa, 95; leaves to Island of: , Zz t Z 7 | 5 \ ‘ INDEX 538 Tanganyika for Mocambique, 96; returns to England, 96; made a C.B., 96; appointed Commissioner for B.C. A. and Administrator of the B.S.A. Co.’s territories North of Zambezi, 97; returns to B.C.A., 97; arrives at Zomba and starts for Mponda’s, 100; leaves for Lake Nyasa on Christmas Day, 1891, after Captain Maguire’s death, 105; makes war on Zarafi, 105-6; troubles with European settlers, 108 ; “Job” experiences, 108; imposes Hut Tax, 110; commences Land settlement, 112; spends Christmas of 1892 at Blantyre, 115; goes on expedition against slave-traders on Upper Shire, 116; goes to South Africa to confer with Mr. Rhodes, 117; divides B.C.A. into administra- tive districts (1893), 119; restores order at Fort Lister after attempted assassination of Captain Johnson ; proceeds on 2nd Makanjira expedition, 121; founds Fort Maguire, 126; returns to England (1894), 126; organises Civil Service of Protectorate, 129; establishes postal service, 129; proceeds to India, 129; returns to B.C.A., 129; proceeds against Matipwiri, Zarafi, and Mponda, 133, e¢ seg.; accepts Mponda’s surrender, 134 ; continues campaign against Arabs, 136; lands at Karonga and starts for Arab stockades, 138 ; interview with Mlozi during truce ; offers Arabs terms, 140; resumes bombardment, 140; enters stockade, 142; tries Mlozi and sanctions his execution, 143; falls ill with black-water fever, 143; returns to England on leave of absence (1896), 146; introduces cash currency (English coinage) into B.C.A., 149; experiences in regard to Black-water fever, 179; botanical collections of, 233; views regarding elephants, 291-2; classification of zebras, 292, e¢ seg.; of antelopes, 309, birds, 333, e/ seg. ; feeling towards the African goat, 432; receives “war” messages from Yao chiefs, 469 Awemba, 135, 145,157, 389, 421, 423, 430, 468, 470 Babisa (see Bisa) Baboon, 286-7 Bain, Rev. Mr., 73 Baker, Sir Samuel, 292 Baloi or Balui, 77 Bamboos, 4, 7, 8 Bananas, 427, 429 ; —— wild, 217 Bandawe (place), 70, 90 —— Sergeant-Major, 130, 131, 142 Bangweolo, Lake, 39, 45, 61, 64, 65 Bank (A. L. Co.’s), 150 : Bantu languages, 54, 478, et seg.; origin of the, 54, 479, 480; prefixes of, 482, et seg. ; proposi- tions defining, 481, 482 Bantu negroes, 55, 389, 479 Baobab tree, 20, 221, 223, 229 Baptist Mission, 189 Barbets, 332, 350 Barutse, 65, 66, 69, 77, 156, 190 Baskets, native, 458 Basuto,—land, 65, 156; ponies, 164 Batoka or Batonga, 58, 77, 233 Batrachians, 359 Bats, 288 Beads, 422, 471 Beans (native, cultivated), 426, 427, 429 Bechuana, —land, 65, 66, 77 Bedford, Admiral, 121 Bees, 374, 381 Bee-eaters, 335, 351 Beetles, 196, 368, 385 Beira, 55, 56, 487 Belcher, Mr. Ralph, 97 Belgians, 71 Bell, Mr. F. Jeffrey, 365 Berndt, Captain, 137 Bicycles in B.C.A., 164, 187 Birds, 11, 329, e¢ seq. and crocodiles, 355 —— singing, of Africa, 195, 332 Birth customs (see Customs, Ethnology) Bisa, Ba-, 62, 71, 389, 479; Ci-, 480, 484, and Vocabularies ; —— Lu-, 71, 156 Blacksmiths, native, 51 Black-water Fever, 19, ef seg., 172, 178-9, et seq., 184-5 Blantyre, 27, 28, 66, 86, 130, 149, 154, 161, 166, et seg., 189 *“atrocities’’ (Commission thereon), 68 Bleek, Dr., 449 Bocarro, Jaspar, 57, 58 Boma (a stockade), 130, 175 Bombax, 210 Boo ; see 7vagelaphus angast Books in Central Africa, 188 orassus palms, 1, 213, 214, 231 Boroma, 234 Botanists, 211 Botany, 207, 211 Botanical gardens at Zomba, 151, 174 Bovide, Bovine, 309, et seq. Bowhill, J. O., 440 Boyce, Dr., 104, 125, 144 Brachystegia, 229 Bradshaw, Lieut.-Colonel, 136, e¢ seg., 141 Brass, 463 Brass wire drawing, 463 Brickmaking, 173 British Central Africa: name first given, 96; first European to enter, 58; general situation in, in 1889, 76; inaccessibility of, in 1889, 77; de- clared a Protectorate, 86; first portion secured, 92; declared a British Sphere of Influence, 95; eastern boundaries of, 146; devastated by slave trade, 156; a field for coffee planting, 164 ; steamers of, 147; trade of, 147; a clearly- marked Zoographical sub-region, 285 British Central Africa Administration, 107, (Ap- pendix to Chapter IV.) 153-4, 158; attitude of, towards slave trade, 156, et seg. British Central Africa Gazetle, 154 British Concession, Chinde, 164 British Government discouraged in Zambezia, 63 ; unable to assist settlers against Arabs in 1889,78; considers financial position in B.C.A., 126, 129 British South Africa Company, 36, 50, 81, 89, (agreement for support of B.C.A. Administration) 97, (subsidies of) 117, 126, 129, (assumes direct administration of its northern territory, 1895) 129; 146, 148, 158 British subjects in B.C.A., 146-7 Bua river, 49 Bubalis, 321 : Buchanan, Mr. John, 66, 68, 74, 76, 77, 85, 86, 96, 103, 160, I61, 233 534 BRITISH CENTRAL APRICS Budorcas, 321 Buffalo, 10, 303, e¢ seg., 329; Indian, 64, 303, 395 Bugs, 369, 381 Bulbul, 195, 332, 349 Buntings, 331, 348 Burchell’s zebra, 292, 295-6 Burial customs; see Customs, Ethnology Burkill, Mr. J. H., 233 Burton, Sir Richard Francis, 63, 64 Bushbuck, 305-6, 329 Bush fires, 37, 42 Bushmen, 52, 53, 389, 479-80; stones, 52 Bush pig (Potamocherus), 296-7, 329 Bustards, 329, 341, 351 Butterflies, 196, 367-8, 381, e¢ seg. Cameron, Mr. 1 (C;, 233 Cameron, Capt. V. L., 66 Canaries, wild, 331 Candido de Costa Cardoso, 60 Cannibalism, 446, e¢ seq. Canoes, native, 456-7 Cant among Missionaries, 190, e¢ seg. Cape Colony, 429 Cape-oak (Z/ex}, 10 Cape of Good Hope, 59 ““Cape to Cairo,” 81, 96 Cape Town, 28, 59, 60 Capital needed in B.C.A. for coffee planting, 160, 163, 164 “Capitao,”’ 168, 204 Capricorns, 309, 327 Capsicums, 428 Carr, Lieut.-Commander, 117 Carson, Mr., 234 Cash (introduction of), 149, 178 Cassava, 427, 429 Castor Oil, 223, 427, 428; 429 Castration of slaves, 158-9 Cat, domestic, 289, 434 » wild, of B.C.A., 289 Cattle (of European planters), 160, 177 », of natives, 429, e¢ seg.; domestic breeds of Africa, 430 Cavendish, Captain Hon. W. E., 133-4, 136 Ceara rubber, 160 : Cedar (Mlanje), 12, 13, 150, 224, 232 Celibacy among missionaries, 198-9 Centipedes, 364-5 Central Africa (see Africa, Central) Central Angoniland, 144, 154 Central Zambezi, 89, 190 Cephalophus, 309; Cephalophines, 309, ef seg. Cercopithecus, 287 Cervicapra, 311 ‘Chambezi (District), 119; (River), 65 Chameleons, 356, 362 Champagne in fever, 180 Chapman’s Zebra, 295-6 ‘Charles Janson, Mr., 69 Charles Janson, S.8., 55, 69, 76, 90, 93 Cheetah, 286, 289 Chewa, A, 144-5, 430; Ci- (Ci-cewa), 484, and Vocabularies “*Chicote” (Hippo-hide whip), 169 Chiefs, native, 114, 468-9 plant, 223, 224, Chifisi, 106, 132 Chikala, Mount, 115, 131, 132 Chikumbu, Chief, 91-2 Chikunda, A., 391 Chikusi, 100, 132, 146 Chikwawa, 154 Chilwa, Lake, 46, 47, 51, 60, 130, 174, 296, 318 Chinde, 98; 148, 149, 164, 165 - River, 63, 79, 82, 165 Chipatula, 69; sons of, 84, 85, 87 Chipeta, A-, 145 Chiperone, Mount, 319 Chipoka, Chief, 99, 107, 108, 330 Chiradzulu, Mount, 38, 69, 84, 87, 88, 98, 132, 149, 154, 164, 166 Chiromo, 303, 335, 439 Chiuta, Lake, 46, 455 Chiwaura, 121, 122-4 Cholo, Mount, 447 Chongone, Mount, 45 Church at Blantyre, 28, 175 Church of Scotland Mission (vzde Missionary Societies) Churchill, Mr. W. A , 82, 96 Cinchona, 160 Cinnabar, 50 Civet, 289 Civil Service, B.C.A., 152, 153 Civilisation (at Blantyre), 27, 28 ‘*Claims, Certificates of,” 113 Clematis, 7 Climate of B.C.A., 39, 40 Cnestis, 210 Coal, 49, 50, 151 Coape-Smith, Lieut. H., 133-4, 135, 136, e¢ seg., 141, 143-4 Cobras, 356, 359 Cobus antelopes: C. ellipsiprymnus, 312; C. lechwe, 286s 312; C. vardont, 286, 312; C. senganus, 312; C. crawshayt, 312-3; C. penricet, 3133 C. maria, 314 The Codus group generally, 309 Cockroaches, 367, 371-2 Cocoanut-palm, 23, 212, 214 Coffee (introduction of, 66), 160, 429; (—~ planting), 77, 160, 161, 163; Export and prices of, 147, 162; Kinds of, 161; Manures for, 162; Methods of planting, 162, 170: yield of, per acre, 162; ‘‘topping,” 163; treatment of ripe berries, 170 Coinage (see English Coinage) Colobus monkey, 285, 287 Colocasia, 429 Cold temperature, 41, 186 Coleoptera, 385, e¢ seg. Colies, 332-3, 350 Collectors and Assistant Collectors, 152-3 Commelina, 210 ; Commissioner of B C.A., 97, 114, 152 » » » Deputy, 152 Comoro Islands, 64 Concession, British (see British Concession) Congo Basin, 54, 303, 479 », Free State, 89, 148, 285, 334 », River, 60, 66, 80, 303 ,, Treaty of 1884, 80 ** Conquistadores,” 56 Consul for Nyasa, 68 INDEX | 535 Cooking, native methods of, 436, e¢ seg. Coots, 27 Copaifera, 210, 220, 224, 229 - Copper, 51, 460, 463 Coreopsis flowers, 7, 212 Cormorants, 27, 342, 353 Cost of living i in B.C.A., 178 Cotterill, Mr. H. B., 67 _ Cotton, 160 Courts of Justice, foundation of, 114 Coutinho, Lieut., 87, e¢ seg. Crabs, land, 363 Cranes, 338, 352 -__ », Crowned, 27, 338, 340-1 Crawshay. Mr. Richard, 74, 94, 97, 116, 135, 295, 298, 312-3, 322, 325, 326 Crickets, 374 Crinum. lilies, 209 Crocodiles, 73, 343, 355-6, 361 ross Dy, D. Kerr, 73, 74, 95, 135, 137, 180, 184, 442, 449, 451, 473, e¢ seg Crotalaria, 210, 428-9 Croton, 224 Crow, 11, 330 (South African, 330), 349 Crown land, 113 Crystals, Quartz, 51 Cuambo (Chuambo) I- (I-cuambo), 485-6 and Vocabularies Cuckoos, 332, 350 Cucumbers, 426, ef seg. Cullen, Commander Percy, 49, 51, 138, e¢ seg., 140, I41 Cultivated plants, 426, e¢ seg., 144 Cumming (see Gordon Cumming) Cunningham, Mr. J. F., 115 Customs, Native: Birth, 416 Burial, 444, e¢ seg. Death, 443 Initiation, 409, ef seq. Marriage, 411, ef seg. Customs (fiscal), Organization of B.C.A., 110 Cycads, 7, 214 Cynoglossum, 212 Cypresses (at Blantyre), 29, 175 = Mlanje (see Cedars) > ” bed ? a ” Daily Telegraph, 66 Damaliscus (Tsessébe antelope), 286, 309, 326, 329 Dances, native, 409, 411, 452 Darter (Plotus), 3, 343 Date palms, wild, Z| Dau (Arab sailing vessel), 102, 103, 125, 148, 153 Decency, sense of, among natives, 419 Décle, M. Lionel, 115 Dedza or Deza, Mount, 45 Deep Bay, 94 Depth of water on Chinde bar, 79; —— Kongone bar, 78 Devil (Natives’ idea of a), 449 ° Devoy, Sergt.-Major, 1 36, 138, 140 “Dhol,” 426 Dhow (see Dau) Diamonds, 51 Disa, ground- orchis, 211 Diseases of Natives, 439, 473, e¢ seg. Dissotis, 7 Districts of B.C.A. Protectorate, 118-9, 154 Divination rod, 451 Dog (Native), 433 Domasi, 130 Domestic animals, 429, é seg. Domira, S.S., 102, 103-4, 116, 121, 136, 143 Donkeys, 379, 434-5 Dorcatherium, 285, 310 Doves, II Drugs, 222, 440 Drums, 460 Dry season, 42 Duala language of West Africa, 61 Ducks, 26, 338, 353, 4343; tree ducks, 26, 338 Duckweed, Giant (%stza stratiotes), 17 Duff Macdonald, Rev. Alex., 68, 412, 416, 444 Duncan, Mr. Jonathan, 160, 161 Durban, 164, 179 Durrha grain, 429 Dutch in B.C.A., 147 Duyker antelope, 309, 310, 329 Dyes, 460 Eagle, Bateleur, 345, 352; Warlike, crested, 345, 3523 Fish, 27, 345, 352 Earthworms, 365 Ebony, 220, 224, 228 Edentates, 321 Edinburgh Botanical Gardens, 161 Edwards, Lieut.-Colonel (Lieut., Major), 117, 120, 122, e¢ seg,, 126, 132, 133, 134, e¢ Seg., 141, 143, i146, 152, 443, 450 Eggs as food, 437 Berets, 1, 27,342 Egypt, 480 Eland, 305, 329 Eleis ‘palm, 35 Electric Fish (Malapterwrus), Elephants, 29, 30, 291-2, 435 LEleusine (Maere, etc., small grain), 426, 429, 437 Elmslie, Dr., 392 Elton, Capt. Fred, 66, 67 Eltz, Herr von, 117 Emba, Aw- (see Awemba) ; Emba, kKi-, and Vocabularies Emba, Lu-, 189 English (in B.C.A.), 147 y»» perverse inaccuracy of the foreign names, 62, 487 English coinage, 149 Equus, 295-6 Eviosema, 210 Lrythrina, 209, 227 Erythrophleum, 224, 441 Ethnology, 392, 409 ; Ethnological characteristics of the natives of B,.C.A.3; initiation cere- monies, 409, ef seg. ; marriage customs, 411, et seg. ; customs relating to birth; procur- ing abortion, 417; naming oi children, 417, 418; change of names, 418; clothing, 418, 419, e¢ seg.; sense of decency, 419; hair- dressing, 421, ef seg.; ornaments, tatooing, 422-3; ear, nose, and lip appendages, 423-4 ; deformation of teeth, 424; agriculture, 424, et seg. ; cultivated plants, 426, e¢ seg. ; domestic animals, 429, ¢¢ seg.; hunting, 435-6; fishing, 436; food and cooking, 436, e¢ seg.; fire making, 438; ideas about death and disease, 439, 443; therapeutics, 444, et seg. ; ordeals by poison and otherwise, 441, 468; death and 48o, 484 in spelling 536 BRITISH CEN@RAL-APRICA: burial customs, 433, é¢ seg. ; witchcraft, sorcery, and cannibalism, 446, et seg.; ideas of God, ancestor-worship, belief in an evil spirit, 449, et seg.; divination, magic, rain wizards, super- stitions, 450, e¢ seg. ; fables, 452 ; houses, 453, et seg.; villages, 456; canoes, 456; weaving, 4573 pottery, string, leather w ork, 459-60 ; dyes, metal work, 460, 463; musical instru- ments, 464-7 ; justice, 468, e¢ seg. ; war, 470; property, 471; trade, 471; diseases, 473, e¢ seg. Euan-Smith, Sir Charles, 76 Eucalyptus, 29, 175 Euphorbia, 174, 220, 222, 224 Eurafricans, 66 Eurasians, 147 European (First to enter B.C.A.), 58 Europeans, 28, 113, 146, 149 European officials, 24 5, settlers, 146, 149 (relations with natives), 182, et seq. Executions for murder in B.C.A., 154 Falcons, 352 Faulkner, Mr., 66; Felis, 289 Fenwick, George, 68, 69 oe Mrs., 69 Ferns, 14, 215 Hers, Lee, 7, 215 Fever, 167, 179, 198, 474-5 Fever, Black-water, 19, ef seg., 172-3, 178-9, et seg., 184-5, 475 Fibre, ‘abe plants, 223 Ficus, 162, 220, 226, 228 Fig trees, sycomore, 3, 4, 162, 226, 228 Finfoot, 337, 352 Fipa, A, 389, 392; ——Ki-, 484 and Vocabu- laries Fire (originated sometimes by }lightning), 439 ; how made by natives, 438; customs as to, 439 Fish, 359, 360, 361-2 Fish-eagle, 27, 345 Fishing-owl, 337 Flamingoes, 26, 341-2, 352 Flannel, 185 Fleas, 368 ; Burrowing — (see Jigger) Fletcher, Corporal W., 130 ‘3 Mr. S. Hewitt-, 130 Flies, 350, 375, e¢ seg. Flogging of Natives, 169 Flora of B.C.A., 207, e¢ seg., 233, et seq. », mountain, 14 Flowers (beauty Of) 7, Ll, 172, 17775) 208,02 01 < (wild), 11, 14, 177, 208 Fly-catchers, 350 Foa, M. (French traveller), 290, 323 Fogs on the rivers, 42 Foliage, spring, 4 Folk-lore, 452 ood, native, items of, 436; preparation of, 436 Foot, Consul, 68, 79 Foreign Office ‘(action in regard to Blantyre atrocities), 68; (modus vivendi with Portugal), 81; written to by missionaries, 108 ; 150. Forests, 35, 208, 216 Forsyth- Major, Dr., 52, 297 Fort Anderson, 119, 149, 154 Fy dei cys *s son, 66 Fort Johnston, 61, 100, 105, 106, 109, 132, 135, 143, 154, 189 Fort Lister, 119, 120, 133 », Maguire, 103, 126 », Mangoche, 134, 146 WE Shaxpe 17, Fotheringham, L. Monteith, 72-3, e¢ seg., 96, 97, 105 Fowl, domestic, 434, 480 Foxes, 285 . Francolin, 11, 347, 35 Free Church Mission (Livingstonia), 66, 70, 1 35 French, the, 146, 147 »» Mr. (P.M.G., Cape Colony), 126 5, Evangelical Mission, 77 Fruits, 226 Fruit-bats, 288, Fungi, 428 Ful language, 479 Fwambo, 95 Galago, 287-8 Gallinules, 27 Gambia, River, 288 Game, Big, regulations dealing with, 150, 296, 303, 326, ef seq. Games, native children’s Gamitto, Captain, 60 Ganda, Ba-, Bu-, Lu-, 479, 480, 483, and Vocabularies Gardenia tree, 209 Gardens at Zomba, 150-1 Garnets, 51 Garrod, Professor A, Gazelles, 285 Gazette, B.C.A., 154 Geese, 353, 434 Geese, Egyptian, 26, 338, 434 ” Spur-winged, 26, 337, 434 », Knob-nosed, 338 Genet, 289 Geographical Society, Royal, 63 s» Scottish, 79 H., 309, 333 Geology of B.C.A., 47 German Government, 94, 148 \ », Steamer, 137, 143 Germans in B.C.A., 147 Germany, 85 Giraffe, 150, 286,298, 328 Giraud, Monsieur, 39 Gladioli, 212 Glave, Mr., 122, 124 Gnu, 320, 321, 328; Nyasaland Gnu, 318, 321, et seq. Goanese, 59 Goat, the African, 432, s Seg., 456 Goats, 309 Goat-suckers, 335, 350 God, Bantu Negroes’ idea of, 449 Gold, 21, 49, 50, 56, 57, 463 Gomphia trees, 4 Gordon Cumming, Mr. Walter, 136, 138, 141, 143-4 Gono Goli Stick (see Slave Sticks) Granite, 4, 17 (footnote), 48 Grant, Mr. J. A., 90, 118 Graphite, 51 . Grass, 193, 214, 218 . INDEX BOF) Graves, native, 444 Gray, Dr., 292, 295; Mrs. aes s Waterbuck, 317 Grebes, 353 Grewia, 224 Ground-nuts, 223, 424, 429 Guano, 162 Guha, Ki-, 480, 483, 484, and Vocabularies Guinea-fowl, 329, 346-7, 351, 434; Crested —, \_ 329, 346 Gulls, 26, 344, 354 Guns (in outfit), 164, 186 Gunboats (Lake Nyasa), 109, 121, 138, 153 (Zambezi-Shire), 98, 130, 146-7 Giinther, Dr., 360-1 : Gypohterax, 285, 345-6 Gyps, 285 Flalizlus (Fish Eagle) Hzemoglobinuria, Hzemoglobinuric Fever, 184-5 Hajji Askar, 125 Hamilton, Lieut., 131, 132 Hamitic races or tongues, 54, 179 Hare, 290, 452 Harrhy, Mr. E., 126 Harrison, Mr. James, 318, 326 Hartebeest, 320, 321, 329 Hausa language, 479 Hawes, Consul, 74, 76, 119 Hawks, 346, 352 Heat (great heat of portions of B.C.A.), 40, 41 Heath, heather, 11 Helichrysum, 212 Hemipode ( 7urnix), 337, 347, 351 Hemiptera, 381 Hemp, 223, 427, 429, 461 Henderson, Mr. Henry, 68, 161 Henga, Wa-, 94, 390 Ci-, "484 and Vocabularies Herald, H.M. S., 98 a Port (see Port Ilerald) Herons, 27, 342, 353; Goliath 27, 342 Hetherwick, Rev. Alex., 68, 84, 205, 224, 485 fibiscus, 210, 223, 459 Hides, 182 Hill, Sir Clement, 145 Hill, Fort, 145 Hillier, Mr. H. A., 110 Hindustani, 479 Hine, Dr. (Bishop of Likoma), 189 Hippopotamus, 56, 108, 182, 296, 435 Hippotraging, 314, 316, 318 Hoare, Mr. George, 116 Hoes, 425, 464; for trade, 182 Holub, Dr. Emil, 77, 233 Honey, 436 Honey-guide (Zzdicator), 332, 350 Hoopoes, 335, 351; Tree Hoopoes, 335, 351 Hornbills, 335, ef seg., 351 3 Ground ——, 336 Hornets, 375 Horse, 377, 379 Hoste, Captain, 67 Hottentots, 52, 53, 394, 399, 479, 480 “ Houses (European, in B.C.A.), 173 Hunting, native methods of, 435 Hunting Dog (Zycaoz), 290 Hut-tax, 110, 111 Huts, native, 453, ef seg. Hyena, 289, 452 Hynde, Mr., 131 Hypericum, 212 Hymenocardias, 220 Hymenoptera, 380 Hyphcene palm (see Palm) —— Forest, word- picture of, 29 Hyrax, 291 Ibis (Hagedash), 27, 342; (Sacred), 27, 342 Ichneumon, 290 Llala, the, 66, 67, 90, 92-3, 121 Impala antelope (see Pallah) Indecency, natives unconscious of, 200, 408, 419 India, 129; India, the place of man’s origin, 53 Indian government, 97, 129 », Immigrants, traders, 147, 177 y> surveyors, 152 ;, troops, soldiers, contingent, 98, 100, 129, 152 Indicator (Honey-guide), 332, 350 Induna, $.S., 164 Inge, Mr. [H., 106 Inheritance, laws of, 471 Initiation ceremonies, Insectivora, 288 Insects, 196, 366, e¢ seq. Inyala ( 7ragelaphus angasz), 305-6, 329 Irish in B.C.A., 147 Iron, 51, 460, 463-4 Italians in B.C.A., 147 Itawa, 145 Itch-bean (Mucuna), 221 Ivory, 177, 182, 464, 467, 471 Jackal, 290 Jack-in-the-Beanstalk’s Country, 9, 10 Jamaica Coffee, 161 James Stevenson, Mr., 47 James Stevenson, S.S., 38, 78, 82-3 Janson, Charles (see Charles Janson), 69 Jat Sikhs, 118 Jerboas, 285 Jesuit missionaries, 57, 189, 190 Jigger (burrowing flea), 367-9 Johnson, Capt. C. E., 108, 116, 118, 119, 120 122, 123, et seg., 126 Johnson, Rev. W. P., 69, 76 Johnston, Sir Harry H. (see Author) Fort (see Fort Johnston) Johnston’ s pallah, 318, 326 José, Amaro, and Baptista, 59 Jumbe of Kotakota, 50, 71, 76, 90, ef seg., 107, I2I, 122, 124 Justice, administration of, 154; 468-9 », courts of, 114, 154; (native), 468 Kada, 120 Kafue R., 45, 78, 190 Kahn and Co., 181 Kalahari Desert, 65 Kalungwizi R., 234 Kambwe Lagoon, 94 Kapemba, Mt., 25 Karonga, 72, 94, 135, 137, 154 Katanga, 50, 65, 114, 190, 460 Katunga, 85, 166 », Road, 114, 149 Katuri, 146 538 BRITISH CENTRAL AFRICA "5 Kawinga, 103, 115, 129, 131, 175 Kazembe (of Lunda), 59, 468 33 (of Rifu), 102, 124 Keane, Commander J. H., 98, 105, 106, 108 Keiller, Mr., 103 Kese, Ba-, Ki-, 484 and Vocabularies Kew Gardens, I51, 211, 233 Khaya tree, 220, 223, 228 Kigelta, 223 Kilimanjaro, Mt., 63, 289, 480; Author’s book on, 154, 318, 330, 365, 453 Kilwa, 56, 100 King, } Mr. Ib Gey HOS; 106 Kingfishers, 2, 27, 335, 336, 351 Kiongwe, Ali, 82, 90, 96 Kirk, Sir John, 58, 60, 61, 233 Klipspringer, 309, 310, 311, 329 Kniphophia, 222 Koelle, Rev. Mr., 156 Kongone, mouth of Zambezi, 78, 79 Kopakopa, 137, 138, 140, 141 Kotakota, 71, 76, 90, 124, 154, 177, 189, 214 Kudu, 305, 317, 329 Kuluunda, 124-5 Kumtiramanja, 133-4 Kunene R., 53 Kungu fly, the, of Lake Nyasa, 436 Kwakwa R., 78 Kwango R., 59 Labour, native, 168 Lacerda, Dr. F. J. M. de Lady Nyasa, the, 68, 78, 84 Lake (word picture of), 17, 18 Lakes, fluctuations in Lake levels, 38, 47 Land, price of, 154, 166-7; Land under cultiva- tion, 149 Land Claims, 113 Land Claims, settlement of, 107, 112-3 Landolphia, 223, 226 Langenburg, 94 Languages of B.C.A., 478, e¢ seq. a Bantu (see Bantu) Larks, 329, 348 east Virals 223 Laws, Dr. Robert, 66, 70 Leather, 460 Lechwe Antelope, 286, 314, 329 Lemurs, 287 Leopard, 288 Leopard Bay (Rifu), 124 Lepidoptera, 381, et seq. Lianas, 223 Liberian Coffee, 161 Likoma, Bishop of, 70, 189; Id. of, 70, 90, 189 Likubula R., 177 Lilies, carmine, 4, 177 »» crimson, », (Gloriosa superba), 221 », tree, 11 », water, 3 Lily-trotter (Parva africana), 27, 343 Limestone, 48 Lion, 288 Lip ornaments, 423, 424 Lissochilus ground orchids, 210, 312 Lister, Sir Villiers, 119; ——, Fort (see Fort Lister) e Almeida, 59 Livingstone, Dr., 24, 27, 37; 38; 60, .0tsmosme (third expedition), 64; (death of), 65; 71, 145, 156, 157, 446 Livingstonia, 70 Livingstonia Free Church Mission, 66, 70, 189 Liwonde, 115, 116, 117 : Liwonde, Fort, 117, 143, 149, 154 Lizards, 356, 361 Lobelia, 9 Locks, native made, 459 Locustids, 373 Locusts, 369, 370, 373 Lofu R., 27 Lolo, A-, 119, 134, 391, 421, 424 Lomwe, A-; I-, 391, 485 and Vocabularies Lonchocarpus, 208 London Missionary Society (see Missionary Societies) Lovebird of the Upper Shire, 333 Lower Shire District, 98, 110, 154, 463 Lualaba R., 64, 156, 303 Luangwa R., 40, 45, 46, 61, 62, 64, 72, 77, 82, 89, 156, 158, 286, 298. 320, 390-1 Luapula (District), 119; River, 47, 60, 61, 64, 65, 212, 213, 389 Lubisa, 71 Luemba (vzde Emba, Lu-) Lugard, Major, 74 Lujenda R., 47, 58, 391 Lunda, 59; Lunda, A-, 76, 212, 389, 419, 468 Lungu, A-; —— Ki, 389, 417, 464-5, 484, and Vocabularies Lusewa, 64 Lu-wemba (vide Lu-emba) Lycaon, 286, 290 Lydekker, Mr., 303 Lynx, Caracal; lynxes, 285, 289 Macdonald, Rev. Duff, 68, 412, 416, 444 Machilla (hammock or chair), 91, 149 Mackenzie, Bishop, 61, 69 Mackinnon, Sir Wm., 67 Maclear, Cape, 70, 134 Madness in natives, 477 Madagascar, 156, 179, 184, 364 ‘ Magistrates, 114 Maguire, Captain C. M., 98, 99, e¢ seg., (death of) 103-4; 105, 109, 121, 125 Maguire, Fort, 103, 126 Magwangwara, 70, 391-2, 455 Maize, 182, 426, 429, 436, ed seg. Makandanji, 100, 101 Makanga country, 290 Makanjira, 76, 102, 103-4, 107, 121, 124-5, 126, 135, 443, 446, 447, 471 Makanjira Fund, 97, 121 Makololo, the, 66, 69, 77; 83, 84, 156, 391-2 55 Livingstone’s, 65, 66, 69 Makua, the, 391 Makua (porters, soldiers), 83, 91, 116, 117, 118, 123, 331 Makua language, 134, 485 and Vocabularies Malachite, 51 Malay archipelago, 211 Malemia, chief, 129, 131 Malindi, 55, 57, 58 Mallows, 7 Malo Island, 69 INDEX 539 Malombe, Lake, 46, 60 Mambwe, Az, 72, 95, 389, 417 f Ki-, 484 and Vocabularies Mandala, 67, 176 Mangoche Mt., 134, 146, 189 Manioc (see Cassava) Manis, 321, 371 Manning, Captain W. H., 118, 121, 131, 146 Mantis, 196, 371-3 Manyema language, 484 and Vocabularies Majfianja, A- and Ci-, 66, 176, 390, 440, 485 and Vocabularies Majianja Hills, 233 Maples, Bishop Chauncy, 70, 94 Marabu storks, 27 Maravi, 57, 62 Marimba, District of, 154, 177 Marriage Customs (see Customs) Marsh, Elephant, 47, 84, 303, 320, 328 », Morambala, »» papyrus, 17 Fate, Panda, Marshes, 47 Mashonaland, ruined cities of, 53 Maskat, 62, 155 Massage amongst the natives, 440 Matabele, 62, 146 Matipwiri, 107, 119, 120, 130, 132, 133-4, 189, 451 Matope, 107, I17 Mauni Hill, 134 Mazaro dialect, 484 and Vocabuiaries Mazbi Sikhs, 98, 118 Mbewe (Makololo town), 84 Mbo, Ci-, 484 and Vocabularies (see Ambo) McClounie, Mr. J., 233 McDonald, Mr. H. C., 318, 326 McEwan, Mr., 104, 124, 144, 154 McMaster, Mr. J. E., 126 Medicines, native, 440, ¢ seg. Meller, Mr. J. C., 233 Menyharth, Rev. L., 234 Merere of Usango, 72 Mfiti, 446-7 Michesi Mt., 119, 295 Military Forces of Protectorate, 118 Milk, 203, 432, 437 Millet, 426, 429, 437 Millipede, 364-5 Mimosas, 216 Miners, gold, word-picture of, 19, ¢¢ seg. Misale, 49, 57 Mission doctor, 19, 21; pupils, 28, 197, 198, 202 Station, word-picture of, 193, e¢ seg. », Work, disappointments of, 203, 204; results of, 204; successes of, 204~—5 ; industrial teaching of, 205 Missions, Christian, 189, e¢ seg. Missionaries, 108, 130, 190, ef seg. (too great asceticism of), 201 Missionary hospitality, 201 Missionary Societies: Church of Scotland, 66, 67, 130, 160, 189; Dutch Reformed Church, 189 ; Free Church of Scotland (Livingstonia), 66, 70, 135, 189; French Catholic (Algerian), 189 ; French Evangelical, 77, 190; Jesuit Mission, 189; London, 70, 71, 95, 189; Nyasa Baptist ” Industrial, 189; Universities’, 61, 63, 69, 70, 77, 189, 198; (wéde Universities), 201; Zambezi Industrial, 189 Missionary’s wife, A, 195, e¢ seq. Misuko trees, 29, 220, 222, 224, 226 Mkanda, 120 Mlanje cedar, 12, e¢ seg., 150, 232 >». district, 154, 189 »» mountain, 12, ef seg., 17, 39, 42-3, 48, 51, 107, 119, 150, 295, 332 Mlauri, 69, 84, e¢ seg. Mlozi, 72, 74, 135, 137, e¢ seg.; (wounded), 141; (captured), 142; (tried and executed), 143, 145 Mogambique, 55, 58, 82, 88; (Governor of), 88, 118, 156, 285, 391, 485 Mocha coffee, 161 Moir, Lake, 46 ee Mis Eireds Mi 67,74, 775, 168 », Mr. John, 67, 69, 74, 85, 86, 161 Moma R., 156 Money introduced into B.C.A., 149 Monitor lizard, 356, 460, 464 Monkey, Co/obus, 287 Monkeys, 287 Monkey Bay, 124 Monomotapa, 56 Monteiro and Gamitto, €0 “* Montisi,” 72 Molluses, 363 Moore, Mr. J., 363 Morambala Mt., 82, 165 0) marsh, 47, 165 Mosques, 56 Mosquito, H.M.S., 98, 117 Mosquitoes, 375-6 Mosses, 281 Mother-in-law, superstitions concerning, 415 Moths, 368, 384 Mountain (birds), 11; (climbing a ——), 4, —— (flora), 10, 11. 14; (plateaux), 10 Mountains of B.C.A., altitudes of, 45; aspects of, 9; geology of, 48; of Portuguese East Africa, 1343 Mpata (Mlozi’s town), 74 Mpatamanga (see Botanical Appendix, Chapter Vili. ) Mpatsa, footnote, p. 86 Mpemba, 144 Mpezeni, 49, 158, 468 Mpimbi, 116 Mponda, 65, 83, 90, 96, 100, e¢ seg., 105, e¢ seq., 107, 134-5, 446 Msalemu, 137, e¢ seg. Msamara, 90, 105, 441 Msiri, 89 *‘Muanza” (name given to Lower Congo and Cameroons), 61 **Muavi” (poison ordeal), 224, 441, 442, 448, 450, 469 Mucuna bean, 321, 428 Mudi R., 176 Muhammadan Sepoys, Indians, 64, 104, 105, 117 ah Yao, 63, 76 Murchison Falls, 38, 65 Music, native, 468 Musical instruments, 464, ef seg. Mwasi Kazungu, 144 ' Mwera (south-east wind), 17 540 BRITISH CENTRAL AFRICA Mweru (District), 119, 306, 312, 321; (Lake), 39, 46, 48, 59, 60, 61 (discovery of),64; 148, 234, 290 Mweru Salt Swamp, 46, 51 Namasi R., 171 Names, absurd—given to Mission children, 203 Nandinia, 285, 290 Natives of B.C.A., 182, 389, e¢ seg. ; see Negroes, Central African (Bantu) Native contingent, 134, 152 Naval service, B.C.A., 153 Ndirande Mt., 107 Negritic group, 54 Negro culture retrograde, 55, 183, 472 Negroes, future of the, 182, 472; proper attitude towards, 183-4; West Indian, 203; tendency of to relapse into savagery, 202, 203; distribution of true , 3000 years ago, 54; uniformity of type of, 392-3; carelessness and indifference in cultivating plants and domestica- ting animals, 429 Negroes, Central African (Bantu), physical des- cription of, 392, e¢ seg. ; uniformity of type, 393; colour of skin, 393-4; albinism, 394; exuda- tions of skin, 395; eyes, 396; physiognomy, 396; lips, 396; chin, 397; hair on face, 397, on body, 398, on head, 398 ; ear, 398 ; breasts, 398-9; sexual organs, 399; buttocks, 399; hands and feet, 399; height and other body measurements, 400, 403; voice, 403; power of withstanding cold and heat, 403; strength, speed, and endurance, 404; muscular develop- ment, 404-5; physical feats, 405-6; postures and movements of body, 406; methods of carrying loads, 406-7; salutations, 407; ex- pression of face and disposition, 407 intelli- gence, 408; relative “uxoriousness,” indecent dances, 408; lack of chastity, "408, 409 ; Ethnology of, 409, e¢ seg. ; see Ethnology, and also Customs, Religion, Domestic animals, Cultivated plants Negroes, past and future of the, 472 a diseases of the, 473, e¢ seg. Negroid Races, 393 New York Herald, 65 Ngindo, Ci-, 485 and Vocabularies Nicholson, Admiral, 108, 109 Nicoll, John L., 72, 82, 90, 95, 97, 109 Nigerian Sudan, Niger, 453, 469 Nightingale, 332 Nile, 65, 182, 479 Nilgai, 309 Nilotic negroes, 479 Nkata Bay, 154 Nkonde (country), 72, 390 a (languages), 390, 480 > Awa-, Wa- (people), 72, 73, 139, 141, 143, 399, 399, 415, 417-9, 423-4, 430-1, 443-4, 445, 451, 452, 454 North Nyasa, 94, 154, 471 Nsese R. (Botanical Appendix, pp. 233-283) Nunes, Vice-Consul, 68 Nutt, Mr., 234 Nuxia, 228 Nyamwezi, Ki- (language : also v@de Sukuma, Ki-), Vocabularies ” Wa-, 392, 404 ap Wa- (country), 67, 157 Nyanja (the true name of Laka Nyasa), 61 2? AS; 62, 99, I19, 145, 390, 417, 419, 422, 424, 443, 444, 446-7, 471 yanja, Ci-, 484-5 and Vocabularies Nyanza, 61 (wzde Victoria Nyanza, Albert Nyanza), Nyasa, Lake, 17, 18, 38, 45, 48, 52, 60; (first discovery of), 61, 71, 94, 102, 148, 153, 360 Nyasa steamers, gunboats, 17, 109, 138, 153 Nyasa-Tanganyika Plateau, 72, 95, 135, 145, 149, 189, 234 Nyasaland, 55, 62, 65, 68, 71, 80, 88, 286, 288, 317, 318 Nyaserera, 119, 120 Nyih’a (Nyixa or Nyika), language, Vocabularies Nyika Plateau, 45 2 A-, 399 Oceana Co., 181 Octodont rodent, an, 291 Odete, 146 Oil palm, 35, 212, 222, 428 Oil seeds, 182, 222, 428 **Old man’s beard” lichen, 10 Oldfield Thomas, Mr., 288, 311, 322, 324, 325 *Oman, 62, 71 O’Neill, Consul, 74 Opisthocomus, 333 Orange, 427, 429 Orchids, 210, 211 55 Ground, 7, 210, 211 Orchilla lichen, 10 Ordeal for witchcraft, etc., 441, 468 Oribi, 311 Orioles, 330-1, 348 Orthography, 486 Orthoptera, 371, 380 Orycteropus, 285, 321, 371 Oryx, 285, 314, 317 Osmunda fern, 220 Osprey, 346, 352 Ostrich, 285, 286, 329, 347 Oswell, Mr. (the explorer), 60 Otogale, 287 Otter, 290 Ourebia, 311, 329 \ Outfit needed for B.C.A., 164 and Appendix IT., chap. vi., pp. 186-188 Owls, 337, 351; the eagle owl, 337, 447 Ox, oxen, 309 (see Cattle) Ox-pecker (Buphaga), 330 Pallah or Impala, 318, 329 ; Johnston’s —— 318, 326 Palm wine, 437 Palms, Borassus, I, 213, 214, 231, 428 3, Gocoanut, 23 2remon7 », Wild Date, 2, 174, 213, 217, 230 », Hypheene, 29, 213, 214, 231, 292, 459 3, Oil, 35, 213, 428-9; Raphia, 174, 212 Papaw tree, 427, 429 Papio pruinosus, 286-7 Papyrus, 17, 26, 219 * Marsh, 17 Paradoxure (Vandinza), 290 Parinarium trees, 4, 220, 224, 226, 230, 428, 456 Parkia, 231 Parra, 343 Parrots, 333-4, 3513 (grey parrot, 334) INDEX 541 Pay of native labourers, 168 Pelele ring, 423-4 Pelicans, 343, 353 Peppers, red and green, 428-9 Pereiras, the, 59 Perissodactyla, 291 Persia, Persians, 155-6, 159 Petre, Sir George, 81 Petrodromus, 288 Pettitt, Messrs.; Mr. Harry —— 84, 292 Phacocherus, 296, 298, 329 Phillips, Lieutenant-Commander, 138 Phragmites reed, 217, 291 Physiological description of ‘the Negro (see Negro) Pigs, 296, 429 (see Bush pig and Wart hog) Pigeons, 344, 354, 434 Pinda Marsh, 38 Pineapple, 429 Pioneer, H.M.S., Pipes, 459, 461 Pipits, 331 fistia stratiotes, 17 Planters, European, 160, 163, ef seq. Plantation (clearing of), 169 Plovers, 27, 343, 354 Pocock, Mr. R. I., 365 Pacilogale, 290 Peocephalus, 334 Poles (Austrian), 146-7 Polyboroides typicus (naked-cheeked Hawk), 346, 352 Polyglotta Africana, 156 Poole, Dr. Wordsworth, 136, 138, 143, 179 Population of B.C.A. Protectorate, 146-7 Porcupine, 291 Porphyrio, 337 Porridge, native, Port Herald, 117, 125, 154, 165 Portal, Sir Gerald, 91, 118 Portuguese, 52, 56, 59, 63, 82, 88, 147, 155, 157, 201 (hospitality of), 201; 391, 426, 429, 434 Portuguese Foreign Office, 81 An Government, 88 y half-castes (« Black Portuguese”), 59, 69, 156, 391 Portuguese East Africa; Zambezia, 59, 78, 81, 134, 156-7, 292, 318, 377 Postage stamps of B.C.A., 129, 149 Postal service of B.C.A., 148, 171 Potatoes, 427, 429; Sweet ——, 427, 429 Potamocherus, 296-7, 329 Pottery, native, 459 », old, dug up near Lake Nyasa, 55, 459 Poultry, 182 Pozo, Ci-, 485 and Vocabularies Pratincoles, 27 Prefixes, Bantu (see Bantu) Printing at Zomba, 295 Procavia, 291 Protea, 11, 223, 428 Proteles, 285 Protectorate (proclamation of British), 86, 96, 147 Protopterus, 359 Pseudogyps, 285 Pterocarpus, 209, 220 Pterocles, 344, 352 Puff-adder, 359 Puku antelope, 286, 312-3; Senga Puku, 312, 329 Pumpkins, 329, 426, 427 Python, 359 Quagga, 285, 295-6 Quail, 351 Quartz, 48, 50, 51 Quebrabago rapids, 60 Queen, H.M. the, 25, 91 “*(Queen’s Regulations,” 154 Quelimane, 55, 60, 78, 82, 148, 156, 391, 485 Rails, 27, 337 Rain, 42; “‘rain-makers,” 451-2 Rainfall of B.C.A., 36, 42 Rainy season, 39, 42, 170 Ramakukane, 69 Rankin, Mr. D., 69, 79, 81 Raphia (see Palms) Raphicerus sharpet, 309, 310, 329 Raptorial birds, 337, 344, 352 Rat, 291 Ratel, 290 Raven, great billed, 11, 330; white, 330 Reed buck, 311, 312, 329 Reeds, 3, 209, 217 Religion of the Natives, 449, e¢ seg. Rendall, Dr. Percy, 287, 288, 322-4 Revenue of B.C.A., 150 Rhinoceros, 292, 328 Afi horns, 182, 292 Rhoades, Lieutenant-Commander, 138, 360 Rhodes, Right Hon. Cecil J., 81, 117, 121, 129 5) _ Herbert, 67 Rhynchocyon, 286, 288 Rice, 426, 429, 437 Rifu, 124 River, word-picture of a, I Roads made by Administration, 114, 149 Road-making, 114, 153 Roan Antelope, 317-8, 329 Robberies, Highway, 107, 108, 132, 149 Robertson, Commr. Hope, 109, 122 Rodents of B.C.A., 290 Rollers, 336, 351 Roman Catholic Missionaries, 200, 201 Roscher, Dr. Ernest, 64 Ross, Mr. A. Carnegie, 97 Rubber, 160, 182, 226, 464 Rufiji R., 285, 286, 329 Rugaruga, 158, 392 Rukuru, R., 137, e¢ seg. Rukwa, Lake, 45, 95, 390, 484 Ruo District, 154 2 River, 58, 83, 87, 292, 390; Falls of, 40; Upper Ruo, 43 Ruvuma R., 58, 62, 324, 391, 480, 485 S , Mr., 85 Sabeeans, 54 Sable Antelope, 4, 286, 317, 329 Sacred Ibis, 27, 342 Sahara desert, 286 Saidi Mwazungu, 102, 104, 144, 154 Salisbury, Lord, 80, 88, 96, 109 Salt, 51, 438, 471 black and 542 BRITISH CENTRAL APRICA Salt, manufacture of, 51 Sand-grouse, 329, 344 Sandpipers, 27 Sandstone, 48 Sansevieria, 182, 223 Sarcidiornzs (knob-nosed duck or goose), 26, 338 Scenery of B.C.A., 35 Schizorhts, 333 Sclater, Capt. B. L., 97, 106, 107, 108, 112, 114, 117 Sclater, Mr. PB: ., 292 Scofus umbretla, 342 Scorpions, 364-5 Scotch, the, 147 », Missions, 66 » oettlers, 147 Scotland, Church of, Mission, 66, 67, 130 Scott, Rev. D. C. Ruffele, 68, 85, 415-6, 440, 447, 453, 459, 468, 486 Scott, Mr. L., 233 Scott-Elliot, Mr., 233 Seamen, excellence of native, 457 Seasons, Rainy and Dry, 39, 40, 211 Secretary to the Administration, 152 Secretary Vulture, 285, 329, 337, 346 Selous, Mr., 77, 292 Semitic (races), 54 », (tongues), 54 Sena, 83; Ci-, 484-5 and Vocabularies Senegambia, 286, 329, 346 Senga country, 72, 141, 156 », pztku (antelope), 329 Senga, Ba-, A-, Ci-, 390, 484 and Vocabularies Serpa Pinto, Colonel, 53, 81, e¢ seg., 86, 88, 233 Serpents (see Snakes) Serpentarius (see Secretary vulture) Serval cat, 288, 289 Sesamum plant and oil, 223, 428-9 Settlers, European, 113 Seven-pounder gun, 102, 105, 106, 122, 134 Sharpe, Mr. Alfred, 45, 74, 89, 97, 107-8, 112, TL6;) DLO} 122) 124265 1305 Mise 4 Olmorioe 291, 296, 310, 326, 450 Sharrer, Mr., 77, 147, 161 Sharrer’s Traffic Co., 176, 181 Sheep, 182 Shells, 363 Shikulombwe, Ba-, 77 Shire Highlands, 27, 45, 48, 61, 62, 66, 77, 88, 130, 170, 234 Shire Highlands Shooting Club, 170 +3. » Province; », River, 3, 38, 58, 60, 149, 165, 390 (wzde West Shire, Lower Shire, Upper Shire) Shrews, 286, 288; Elephant, 288 Shrikes, 349 Siege of Mlozi’s stockade, 138-140 Sikhs, the, 28, 30, 98, 102, 103-4, 105, 117, 118, 120, 123, 124, 129, 130, 141, 152 Silva Porto, 60 Silver, 57 Simpson, Mr. A. C., 66, 84 Situtunga (Speke’s Tragelaph), 286, 305, e¢ seg., 329 Slavery, 149, 155. 156 Slave States in W. India, 155 Slaves, 31, 155 Slave-sticks, 31, 158 Slave-trade 149; (worst horrors of), 155-6 Slave-traders, 115, 119; (of ancient times), 155; (American), 156 Slugs, 363 Smilax yam, 221 Smith, Lieut. G. de Herries, 136, ef seg., 141 », Mr. Edgar A.,; 363 Smythies, Bishop, 70, 90 Snails, 363 Snakes, 356, 359, 362 Snipe. 343, 354 Soapstone, 48 Somaliland, Somalis, 54, 56, 62, 63, 285, 295, 298 Songwe River, 94, 303 Sorcery, 441-2, 446, et seg. Sorghum. 426, 429, 436 South Africa Chartered Company (see British, etc.) South Africans in B:C.A., 147 South Nyasa District, 109, 149 Spathodea, 210 Speke, Captain, 63 Speke’s Tragelaph (see 7ragelaphus speket) Spiders, 364-5 Sport (big game shooting), 171 Spring foliage, tints of, 4 Stairs, Captain, 89, 114, 115 Stanley, Mr. H. M., 65, 66 Starke, Mr., 131 Starlings (Glossy), 330, 348 Steamers (on Lake Nyasa), 66, 70, 109 a4 (on Rivers Shire and Zambezi), 98, 109, 147 59 (on Lake Tanganyika), 70, 75 Steere, Bishop, 70 Stevenson, Mr. Gilbert, 105, 116 s Mr. James, 71 a Ge the (Steamer) (see James Stevenson) Stevenson Road, 71 Stewart, Mr. James, 67 Stewart, Captain F. T., 136, 144, 146 Stick-insects, 373 Stilt-plover, 343, 354 \ Stipa grass, 213 Stockade, Mlozi’s, 137, ef seg. Storks, black (Amastomus), 27, 342 5, saddle-billed (AZycterta), 17, 342 »» marabu, 27, 342 »» (generally), 353 Stork, H.M.S., 82 Strawberries at Zomba, 174 String, native, 459 Strophanthus drug, 182, 224-5, 440-1 Strychnos, 226, 428 Sudan, 329, 346, 379, 453 Sudanese, 117 Sugar, sugar-cane, 182, 427, 429 Sultan, Arab, 23, 24, 31 », of Zanzibar, 76, 90, 118 Sunbirds, 347 Sus genus, 297 Swahili (people), 64, 91, 104 ,, (language), 478, 479, 486 Swallows, 332, 350 Swann, Mr. A. J., 95, 96, 97, 144 Swifts, $34, 350 INDEX 543 Swine (vide Szs, Wart hog, Bush pig, Phacochavus, and Potamocherius), Syndactyla, the, 335 Tabernemontana, 226 Tamarind, 226 Tambala, 144, 154 Tanganyika, Lake, 25, 39, 45, 48. 52, 60; (discovery of) 63; (South end of) 64, 70, 71, 95, 96; (North end of) 96; 148, 189, 234, 285, 360, 484 Tanganyika, Lake, Birds on, 26; 27, 342 fe 36 Marine Fauna of, 363 se District, 119 : Tasmanians, 396 Tax, Gun, III Tax, Hut, 111, 150 Taxation, III, 150 Taylor, Mr. G. A., 145, 318 Tea, 160 Teak, African, 223 Teal, 26 Temperance in Tropical Africa, 180-1 Temperature, high, 40, 41; low, 41 Tephrosia, 210, 429 Termités, 174, 370, 371 Terns, 26, 344 Tete, 57, 60, 62, 484 Therapeutics, native, 477 (see Ethnology) Thomson, Mr. Joseph, 46, 70, 90, 118, 233 Thrushes, 331-2, 349 Ticks, 364-5 Tiger-cat (Fel’s serval), 288, 289 Timber, 182 Times newspaper, 79, 81 Tiputipu (Tippoo-tib), 76 Tits, Titmice, 348 Tobacco, 160, 182, 427, 420 Tomatoes, 427, 429 Tonga, Ci-, 484 and Vocabularies », Wa-, A-, 390, 486; Ba- (Batoka), 390, 391; see Atonga Tortoises, 356, 361 Trachylobium, 220, 226 Trade (among natives), 177, 182 », goods, 182 Traders, 177, 181 Tragelaphs, the ( Zragelaphine), 303, 305-6 Tragelaphus angast, 305, et seg., 329 ci: scriptus, 305, et seg., 329 2 Speket, 286, 305, ef seg., 314, 329 Traps, 435 Treaties with native chiefs, 81, 86, 94, 113 Treatment of Black-water fever, 180 Trees, Forest, 216 », Useful trees of B.C.A., 224, e¢ seq. Tree-ducks, 26 Tree-ferns, 7 Tree-lilies, 11, 211 Trogon, 335, 350 Trollope, Major Frank, 136, e¢ seg., 141, 318 Tropical vegetation, 2 Tsessébe antelope, 286, 309, 326, 329 Tsetse Fly, 56, 64, 367, 377, et seg. Tumbuka, Ba-, 390, 484 Tundu Hill, 133 Turaco, 7, 8, 333, 350 Tusks, Elephants’, 291-2 Uapaca hirkiana, 220, 224, 226, 227, 428 Uganda, 295 Ujiji, 64, 71 Umbre, Tufted (Scopus), Universities Mission to Central Africa, 61, 63, 69, 79, 77, 159, 189, 198, 201 Unyanyembe, 64 Unyamwezi (see Nyamwezi, Wu-) Upper Congo, 65 Upper Shire, 115, 149; (District), 154 Upper Zambezi, 77, 234, 285 Urquhart, Mr., 103-4 Usnea lichen, 10 Varanus lizards, 356, 460, 464 Vasco da Gama, 55 Vegetable earth, 48 Vegetation, tropical, 2, 35; (graceful), 213; (malicious), 220 Vellozia splendens, 211 Vesperiuco, 288 Vicenti, 78 Victoria Nyanza, 63 Victoria Falls, 233 Village, native, 456 », word-picture of, 19, 20 Villiers, Lieutenant, R.N., 124 Vitex, 223, 224, 227 Creed | Vocabularies of B.C.A. languages, 488, ¢¢ seg. Volcanoes, 48 Volcanic lavas, 48 yn tuffs, 48 Vultures, 285, 329, 344, 352 = relative scarcity of in B.C.A., 344 Wages, native, 165 Wagtails, 331, 348 Waller, Rev. Horace, 48 Wankonde (see Nkonde, Wa-), War (word-picture of a), 30, 31; native methods of, 469, 470, 471 Warblers, African, 332, 349 Wart Hog, 296, 298, 329 Wasps, 374; Mason wasps, 374 Water lilies, 3 Waterbuck (Codzs), 312, 313, 329 Watson, Dr. A. B., 105, 106, 122 Wax, 182 Waxbills, 331, 348 Weapons, native, 462 Weasels, 290 Weatherley, Mr. Poulett, 39, 46, 326 Weaver-birds, 331, 348 Weaving, 457 Wells, Mr. H. G., 366 Welsh in B.C.A., 147 Wemba, A- (see Awemba, Emba) West Africa, 35, 42, 55 s, Indians, Indies, 203 », Nyasa District, 49, 112, 154 », Shire District, 49, 51, 154 Wheat, 182, 426 Wheeler, Mr. Wm., 107 Whicker, Mr. F. J., 117 Whisky, 19, 21, 168, 171 White men in a native village (word-picture of), 19 White-ants (see Termites) 544 BRITISH CENTRAL AFRICA Whyte, Mr. Alexander, 97, 119, I50-I, 212, 330 Widdringtonia Whytet, 12, 13, 150-1, 224 Widow-birds, 331 Wildebeest (see Gnu) Winds, prevailing, 42 Winton, Mr. W. E. de, 295, 297, 298, 319 Wissmann, S.S. Hermann von, 137 Wissmann, Major von, 110 Witch, witchcraft, wizards, 441, 446, e¢ seg., 451 Women, European, in Africa, 177, 199, 200 as missionaries, 198, e¢ seg. native, 20, 470 (succession through the), 471 Woodcock, 343, 354 Woodpeckers, 332, 350 Worms, 365, 473, 476 Xantharpyia, 288 Xanthism, 394, 396 Yao, Wa-, 61, 62, 77, 99, 119, 131, 157, 391, 394, 397, 404, 416, 444-5, 470, 471 Yao, Muhammadan, 61, 447 », land, 62 5, language, 485-6 Young, Lieut., 65 Yule, Mr., 145, 289, 415-6 Zambezi, 55, 56, 59, 60, 63 (Chinde, mouth of, 63 (Delta of), 63, 65, 78, 79, 89 (slave trade of), 156, 165, 182, 189, 190, 234, 285, 329, 390-1 Zambezia, 63, 182, 303 Ap Portuguese, 59, 78, 81, 156, 292 Zambezi expedition (Livingstone’s), 60, 63 »» (Upper), 77, 234, 285, 286 6 Industrial Mission (vzde Missionaries) Zanzibar, 62, 67, 71, 78, 91, 148, 478 . Sultan of, 76, 90-1, 118 es Arabs, 118 Zanzibaris, 100, 117, 118 Zarafi, 101, 105, 106, 130, 132, 134, 146, 451 Zebra, 285, 292, ef seg., 329 Zebras, classification of, 292, 295-6 Zoa, 114 Zomba, 39, 41, 130, 149, 154, 370 7 Mountain, 45, 330 ee Residency, 130 Lea of Africa (digeabuaen aE animals), 285-6 Zoological Society, Gardens, 288, 298, 310, 318, 336 Zulu (language), 480, ey and Vocabularies », (people), 62, 156 5, (soldiers), 83 Zululand, 62, 156 Zumbo, 57, 58, 391 Zygodactyle development of fruit-pigeon, 344 PLYMOUTH WILLIAM BRENDON AND SON PRINTERS Pye pe te s+ Hs